A TOUR THROUGH SOME PARTS OF FRANCE, SWITZERLAND, SAVOY, GERMANY AND BELGIUM, DURING THE SUMMER AND AUTUMN OF 1814 BY THE HON. RICHARD BOYLE BERNARD, F. M. Majora minorane famx ? hor. Say are they less or greater than report ? PHILADELPHIA : PUBLISHED BY EDWARD EARLE, No. 145, CHESNUT-S TREET. Joseph M. San4ersQ]V.Pr| i^»i }0 TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE PRINCE REGENT. Sir, Permit me to offer my most respectful thanks to Your Royal Highness, for the honor you have con- ferred upon me, by permitting the following pages to be inscribed to Your Royal Highness. I beg at the same time to express my congratula- tions to Your Royal Highness on the late glorious events, which have distinguished Your Royal High- ness's Government, which have restored to England the blessings of universal Peace, and will render the present sera ever memorable in History. I have the honor to be, With the highest Respect, Sir, Your Royal Highness's Obliged and most obedient Servant, R. R. BERNARD. ffj Had the following Pages required the exertion either of superior judgment, or of abstruse research, the Author is not sufficiently vain to have submitted them to the notice of the Public. They are therefore not recommended to the peru- sal of the critical reader ; as in fact, they contain mere- ly the hasty observations suggested by the scenes he visited in the course of his Tour, together with a few occasional remarks, which he thought might be ac- ceptable to the generality of readers: since notwith- standing the late increase of travellers, the numbers are still very great, who, being prevented by business, or deterred by the inconveniences of travelling, from visiting the Continent, might be disposed to pardon some inaccuracies, should they meet with a small portion either of amusement or information, CONTENTS, CHAP. I. PACEn Introduction — On the opening of the Continent — Depart- ure from London — Arrival in France — Different ap- pearance of things — Large bonnets — Custom-house and passports — Of travelling in France — French dinners— Abbeville — Beauvais — Vines — Chantilly ; its ruined appearance — St. Denis and its Abbey ...... 1 CHAP. II. Of the approach to Paris — General appearance of that city — Its bridges — Is inferior in comfort to London — Settled at an hotel — Population of Paris — Its markets — Badly supplied with water — Of its various divisions and their inhabitants — Palais Royal — Gamblers — Po- lice — English papers — Rule to find one's way through Paris — The Tuilleries — The Louvre — Plans of im- provement 14 CHAP. Ill* Visit to the Gallery of the Louvre and Museum — To the Luxemburg— To theRoyal Library— To the Palais des Beaux Arts — To the church of Notre Dame— To the Pantheon— Protestant Church and Congregation— Cf Vlll CONTENTS. PAGE. the number of English in Paris — Column in the Place Vendome — Gobelin Manufactory — Post Office — Bo- tanic Garden — Lady and her Dog — Story of Dr. Moore — Of the Character of the Parisians — Their Loquacity — Of the Legislative Body — Heat of the Weather — Champs Elysees — Quarter of St. Antoine — Of the Re- volution — Of the Boulevards — Of the Restaurateurs^ — Of Ladies frequenting Coffee-Houses, &c 28 CHAP. IV. The Invalids — Elevation of different Buildings — Buona- parte desirous of Eclat — Champ de Mars — Place de Grenelle — Of the Plan of General Mallet and his Exe- cution — Visit to the Museum of French Monuments — Infidelity of its Promoters — Of Colbert — Gardens of Tivoli — Great Numbers of Military Officers in Public Places — Of the Capture of Paris by the Allies — View of Paris from Montmartre — Vanity of the French — Their Love of Novelty — The Emperor Alexander's Entry into Paris — Of the Establishment of M. Dela- croix — At the Tuilleries — Of the King — His regard for England — France still unsettled — Advice of Galba to Pis — Curious Glass Stair Case — Of the French The- atres, and their Italian Opera — Number of Bureau d'Ecrivains 43 CHAP. V. Visit to the Royal Palaces— St. Cloud— St. Cyr— Malmai- son — Versailles — Its Formality — Accuracy of Pope's Description of the Old Style of Decoration — Compari- son of Windsor and Versailles— City of Versailles CONTENTS. -IX PAGE. greatly reduced — Trianon — Sevres — Porcelain Manu- facture — Barrier of Passy — Of the Harvest — Castle of Vincennes — Few private Carriages at Paris — Great Numbers of Fiacres and Cabriolets — Attend at the Foreign Office for Passports to leave Paris — Arrive at Fontainbleau — Memorable for the Abdication of Buo- naparte — Reflections on the Captivity and Character of the Pope — Reflections on Buonaparte — At Montereau; Battle near the Town — Sens — Auxerre — Description of the French Diligence — Dinners, &c 56 CHAP. VI. At Avalon — Public Promenades — Number of Beggars — Villages and Country Houses more numerous in Vine than in Corn Countries — Farming in this District — Land Tax and Customs of Descent — Dijon — A large and handsome City — Its Public Buildings — Company in the Diligence increased by the arrival of two French officers — Their political opinions — Advantage of the Diligence — Arrival at Dole — Battle near Auxonne — Genlis — Poligny — Vin d'Arbois — Woods, but without Birds — Moray — English breakfast — Resemblance to North Wales— Magnificent view of the lake of Geneva — Excellent roads made by Buonaparte — Visit to Fer- ney — Description of Geneva — View from its Cathedral — Its manufactures— Population — Territory— Determi- nation to visit the Alps; and not to go into Italy . . 71 CHAP. VII. Departure for Charaouny — Bonneville — Valley of Cluse Cascade d'Arpennas— St. Martin— Extravagant bill Proceed on mules— Their astonishing safety— River CONTENTS. PAGE, Arve — Pont de Chevres— Cascade of Chede — Extrava- gance of English travellers very prejudicial — Lake of Chede — Servoy and its mines — Visited by the empress Maria Louisa — Glaciers des Bossons — Definition of Glacier — Of the valley and village of Chamouny — Guides — Politics of the Savoyards — State of taxation — Ascent of Montanvert — Magnificent and awful spec- tacle of the Mer de Glace — Height of various moun- tains, compared with Mont Blanc — Simile from Pope — Return to Chamouny — Larch and fir mixed on these vast mountains — Their productions.- — The valley con- tinually threatened with avalanches ....... 84 CHAP. VIII. Leave Chamouny — Delightful situation of Valorsine— - Festival there — Of the Savoyard peasants — Anecdote from M. de Saussure — Country difficult to travel through — Trient — Magnificent view from the Fourcle — The French not so much disliked in the Valais as their cruelty deserved — Castle of la Rathia— Martigny — Unsuccessful attempt of two English gentlemen to ascend Mom Blanc — Less adventurous, we did not ascend Mount St. Bernard — Cascade of the Pisse Vache — Number of idiots and goitrous persons in the Valais — Opinion of Mr Coxe on the subject — Opinion of M. de Saussure — St. Maurice — Its strong position — Roman bridge and antiquities — Passports demanded here—Different colour of the Rhone here and at Geneva 98^ CHAP. IX. Bex — Industry of the inhabitants of this country — Their eONTENTS. Xi PAGE. cottages and wandering lives — Salt springs — Aigle — Growth of corn — Villeneuve — Agitated state of the lake — Labours of the inhabitants often destroyed by the fall of rocks — Chillon — Clarens — Vevay — Magnifi- cent view of its church — Of general Ludlow — Lausanne — Its singular situation — Its antiquity — Its cathedral — View from the church yard — Population &. manufac- tures — French manners prevail here — Gibbon — Pope Felix V. a singular character — Reformation — Morges — Festivity there — Rolle — Its Spay — Country seats — Delightful scene from the garden of its castle in the evening — Nyon — Chateau de Pranqui — Joseph Buona- parte — Vines — Swiss artillery — Copet — Anecdote of Mde. de Stael — Versoi — Return to Geneva .... 110 CHAP. X. On the introduction of history into tours — Early govern- ment of Geneva — Reformation — Alliance with Berne and Zurich — A few laws peculiar to Geneva — Theatre — Town hall — Permission obtained to reside at Geneva — Lodging procured in consequence — Fortifications of Geneva not devoid of utility — Views from the ram- parts — Maintenance of the allied troops very expen- sive to Geneva — Regret of the Geneveseat the destruc- tion of some ancient avenues by them — Meet a person who gives a melancholy account of the state of Geneva under the French — State of society — Fete de naviga- tion — Dress, &c. — Epigrame by a prince of Hesse — Rousseau — Voltaire — Raynal — Remarks of a Savoyard peasant — The college of Geneva — The Library — Of Calvin — Water works — Society of arts — Corn magazine — Churches, service, &c. at Geneva 123 XU CONTENTS. PAGE- CHAP. XI. Excursion to the Perte du Rhone — Magnificent specta- cle which it affords — Rise of the Rhone — Hope gardens Malt liquor badly made — Climute of Geneva — Of Swit- zerland in general — Opinion of Haller — Soil, grain and population of Switzerland — Quantities of cattle — Va- rious plants— Visit to a watch-maker's warehouse — Its elevated situation — Great ingenuity, but want of what in England would be thought good taste — Circles of Genevese — Introduction to a French gentleman who had twice escaped the guillotine — Walks and rides — Junction of the Rhone and Arve — Coligny — Carrouge —St. Julian — Battle there — Inferiority of the Austrian troops to the French — French politics — Empress Ma- ria Louisa — Lord Castlereagh at Geneva .... 136 CHAP. XII. Regret at leaving Geneva — Lake of Joux — Coponex — Robbers— Lassera— Curious separation of a rivulet — Orbe — Face of the country — Price of land — Yverdun — Sea view — Spa — Anecdote of a conductor — Game — Bridge of Serrier — Neufchatel, said to resemble Na- ples — Description of its territory — Anecdote respect- ing the religion of Landeron — David Riri — Sketch of the history of Neufchatel—- Competitors for its sove- reignty—Lake of Bienne— Island of St. Pierre— Singu- lar government of Bienne — Great change on passing the Pont de Thiel— Charge of rapacity against the » Swiss— Pleasant travelling — Extensive view from Jule- mont — Agriculture — Arberg . 144 C0KTEX1S. X11I TAGE. CHAP. XIII. Morat, famous forKirschwasser — monument commemo- rating" the defeat of the Burgundians removed by the French — Its inscription — Seedorf — View of the Island of St. Pierre— Beauty of the distant view of Berne — Its interior also handsome — Its fortifications — Stags and Bears kept in the trenches — Public Library — Bo- tanic garden — Chemists' and Bakers' shops — Convicts chained in the streets — Beautiful public walks — Go- vernment of Berne — Opinion of Pope — Excursions to Hofwyl and Hyndlebanck — Extent of the Canton of Berne — Its population, productions, See. &c. — State of the Clergy — Departure from Berne — Village of Worb — Saw mill — Bleach greens — Care which the Swiss take of their horses — Sumiswald — Little wooden Inn — Zell— Castle of Haptalla-— Irrigation-- -Beautiful situ- ation of Lucerne- --Its melancholy interior-- -General Pfiffer's model— Beautiful lake— Mount Pilate and Ri- gi — Visit two classic spots, and the small Canton--- Gersau— Intolerance — Lake and Canton of Zug— Swiss honey— Magnificent view of Zurich, described by Zim- merman—Considerations on the difference between the Swiss Cantons, &c. 156 CHAP. XIV. Zurich — Its interior not answerable to its distant appea- rance — Population, buildings, &c Dinner at the Table d'Hote — Excursion on the Lake— Country and Villages, near Zurich — Winter there — Cascade of Lauffen— Its magnificent effect— Cyder — Bad vintage-- Schaff hau- sen — Its bridge — Population — Laws — Manufactures* &.C.— View of Mount Bunken— Chapsigve cheese— Swiss tea— Set out in the Diligence with a Doctor as were each of the seventeen cardinals, in custody of a gend'arme, and their destination was kept secret. But on the 5th of April following, the provisional go- yernment of France gave orders, that all obstacles to the return of the pope to his states might be removed ; and, after five years of confinement and outrage, Pius VII. returned to his capital, to receive the reward of th&tjinnness and moderation, which, blended so happi- ly in his character, will long render it an object of ad- miration. I next considered the character of the tyrant, who so long and so successfully triumphed over prostrate 64 Europe, England alone preserving unimpaired that liberty, which she was destined to be the means of dif- fusing to rival nations. It would be absurd to deny Buonaparte the praise due to the matchless activity, and consummate skill, with which he conducted the en- terprizes suggested by his boundless ambition ; and which made him the most formidable enemy with whom England ever had to contend ; but his cruelty, his suspicion, and his pride, (which made him equally disregard those laws of honour, and those precepts of morality, respected by the general feelings of mankind) as they excited the indignation of thinking men, pre- vented any pity at his fall. Such a man was destined only to excite astonishment, not admiration ; and that astonishment could not fail of being greatly diminished, by his want of extraordinary resources, when placed in a situation, upon the possibility of which he had dis- dained to calculate. His continued aggressions raised Europe against him from without, and he was overthrown, because he had completely disgusted the fickle people, whom he had made the instruments of hia ambition. It would surely require the pen of a Tacitus to de- lineate with accuracy the character of such a man, who, to use the words of the lamented Moreau, " had cov- ered the French name with such shame and disgrace, that it would be almost a disgrace to bear it ; and who had brought upon that unhappy country the curses and hatred of the universe," $5 His ambitious wars are supposed to have occasioned the destruction of nearly four ?nillions of men, wuoin he considered merely as instruments to accomplish his extravagant views ; and he is reported to have said re- peatedly, that " it signified little whether or not he reigned over the French, provided he reigned over France." He delighted in carnage, and speaks in one of his bulletins of " 800 pieces of cannon dispersing death on all sides," as presenting " a most admirable spec- tacle." On Buonaparte's arrival from Egypt, he found things as favourable for his projected usurpation as his most sanguine hopes could have imagined. In the eighteen months which had preceded his arrival, there had arisen no fewer than four constitutions, and the French might well exclaim, " They have made us so many constitutions, that we have now none remaining !"— Wearied out with the succession of sanguinary fac- tions, each endeavouring to establish itself by pro- scriptions, banishments, and confiscations, France sub- mitted without opposition to the government of a ruler, who seemed sufficiently strong to keep all minor ty- rants in subjection ; and, despairing of freedom, sought only an interval of repose. This hope was, however, not destined to be realized, for Buonaparte soon pur- sued all those who presumed to oppose his schemes in the slightest degree with astonishing eagerness, and those who submitted with the most alacrity, were trea- ted only with contempt. 6 2 66 He was hardly seated on his throne, before he spoke of making France a camp, and all the French soldiers. A long series of success made him despise those pre- cautions so necessary to insure it, and rendered his ca- tastrophe the more striking. The character given by Seneca of the Corsicans, has been quoted as applicable to the most famous charac- ter that island has ever produced : he says, " the lead- ing characteristics«of these islanders are revenge, theft, lying, and impiety." Over the downfall of such a man, the civilized world must rejoice ; but the contempla- tion of his character affords a salutary lesson to ambi- tion, which carried to excess, ruins that greatness it would so madly increase. The last years of his reign were distinguished by the number of plots which were pretended to be dis- covered, and proved the truth of a remark of Mary de Medicis, " That a false report believed during three days, tended to secure the crown on the head of an "usurper." But neither his guards, nor his police, could insure him a moment of repose. " Volvitur Ixion, et se sequiturque fugitque." Modern history has fully demonstrated a truth, which might have been collected from more ancient records, and of which England affords an illustrious example, that the attachment of a free and enlightened people is the only basis on which thrones can rest with se- curity. 6T Having now sufficiently satisfied my curiosity at Fontainbieau, I determined on continuing my journey, (which I fear my reader may regret I did not do sooner) and I accordingly arrived at noon at Monte- reau, which is an inconsiderable town, but beautifully situated in a fertile plain, at the junction of the rivers Seine and Yonne. The bridges over those rivers had been partly broken down, to impede the progress of the allied troops in the late memorable campaign. They have been repaired with timber in a temporary manner, but cannot be considered as at all sufficiently secure for the passage of heavy carriages. Many of the houses in this town still exhibit abundant marks of bullets, but the country around appears in such a luxu- riant state of cultivation, that had I not myself seen the spot where a battle had been fought in the last spring, I could hardly have persuaded myself it had so lately been the theatre of war. I next reached Sens, a large and ancient city, but thinly inhabited, and with little marks of activity, al- though situated in a country abounding with all the conveniences of life, and possessing a situation on the rivers Vanne and Yonne, which seems to shame its in- habitants for their neglect of the commercial advan- tages they afford. The Cathedral is a venerable structure, and contains the tomb of the Dauphin, father of the present King, who died in 1765. — About sixteen English miles dis- tant is Joigny, beautifully situated on the Yonne, and surrounded on all sides by vineyards ; we now were 68 approaching one of the parts of France most famous for its wines. The road, which is in excellent repair, follows the windings of the river to Auxerre, which, although much less than Sens, has a more lively appearance, and the inhabitants seem to make more use of the fa- cilities which the river affords of communicating with Paris and the rest of the country. The churches here are handsome, the tower of one of them is said to have been built by the English. The vineyards in this neighbourhood are numerous, and the wine is much esteemed. I waited here for the arrival of the Paris Diligence, in which I proposed to proceed to Dijon, wishing not to leave France without having made trial of one of their public carriages. The appearance of that which I saw at Calais was much against it ; the one I met with here proved a very tedious conveyance, not going in general above three or four English miles an hour ; which, how- ever, is as much as could be expected from a car- riage which is scarcely less laden than many of our waggons. It was drawn by five horses, all managed by one postillion, mounted on one of tne wheel horses, and furnished with a vast and unwieldy pair of boots, cased with iron, and a long whip, which he is perpetu- ally employed in cracking. Another important per- sonage is Monsieur le Conducteur, who has the care of the luggage, &c. The French in general adhere to old customs, as well as the postillions to their anti- 69 quated boots ; their hour of dinner in general being from eleven to twelve o'clock, and seldom so late as one. This in England would be considered only as a Dejeuner a la Fourchette. The hour of supper is from seven to nine, according as the length of the sta- ges may determine. If the hour of a French dinner is singular to an En- glishman, the order in which it is served up is not less so. The soup (that great essential to a Frenchman) is always followed by bouilii, which having contributed to make the soup, is itself very tasteless. — Friccassees and poultry succeed ; then follow fish and vegetables, and last of all comes the roti, which, as I before had occasion to observe, is so much done as not to be very palatable. The pastry and desert conclude their din- ners, which certainly deserve the praise of being both cheap and abundant. The fruit is astonishingly cheap ; I have seen excellent peaches sell for a sous apiece. A traveller is not, however, in general disposed to criticise these singularities, either in the hour or order of the repast with too much severity, as the remark attributed to Alexander the Great, has probably been made by many of less celebrity, " that night travelling serves to give a better appetite than all the skill of confectioners." The general price of the Table d'Hote in France, including the vin ordinaire, is about three francs, which are at the present rate of exchange equal to about a shilling each. — Those who call for better wine pay of course extra, 70 The vin ordinaire, or common wine of Burgundy, is a pleasant beverage, little stronger than cider, but in many parts of France it is by no means palatable. The eider and beer in France are, with few exceptions, ex- tremely indifferent, and consequently little used. 71 CHAP. VI. My first day's journey in the Diligence was short and uninteresting. We arrived to sleep at Avalon, a small town partaking, in common with most others in France, of a degree of gloom occasioned by the want of those shops which enliven most of our country- towns. Here a few articles are placed in a window, to indicate that there is a larger supply to be had within. There are few towns in France which have not 3,/iublic place or walk, which is generally planted with trees, and kept in good order. Whilst supper was prepa- ring, we took a few turns on the promenade of Avalon, and found a considerable number of persons assembled there ; but were much shocked at the number and miserable appearance of the beggars who thronged around us. They are much too numerous in all parts of France, and particularly here. At an early hour next morning, we were summoned to resume our places in the Diligence ; these places are in general numbered, and each person takes his seat in the order in which he has paid his fare, a regu- lation which prevents any delay, and precludes disputes or ceremony. We continued our journey through the small towns of Rouvray and Viteaux , the country is diversified with hills, which are not of sufficient magnitude t© 72 present any great obstacle to the progress of the tra- veller. There are vast numbers of vineyards, but there are few trees. In this, as in all other wine countries, vil- lages and country houses are more numerous than in the districts producing only corn, either because the lands which produce vines are more valuable, and con- sequently are divided amongst a greater number of owners, or that the culture of the vine requires more people than other species of tillage. In one district, where corn was the chief crop, I en- quired respecting the usual mode of farming, and found that the land, which was this year under corn, was in- tended to be sown the next year with maize (of which there is a vast quantity) and the year following to lie fallow, after which it will be considered as again fit to produce corn. I found also, that the direct land-tax through France was not less than 20 per cent, exclusive of the other taxes which fall incidentally on landed property. There are also in many provinces customs which regulate the descent of land (often in a manner very different from the disposition which the owner would wish) amongst the relations of the last owner. These customs and the heavy taxes on land may account for the seemingly small price which it in general sells for throughout France. The approach to Dijon is striking, and the Dili- gence arrived there sufficiently early to afford us time to survey the city, which is one of the best built and most considerable in France. It was formerly the capi- tal of the province, and the residence of the ancient sovereigns of Burgundy, whose tombs are still to be seen at the Chartreuse, near the city. It is now the chief place in the department of the Cote d'or, and contains a population of about 22,000 inhabitants. It is situated between the small rivers Ouche and Suzon, in a valley, which is one of the most highly cultivated districts in France, and which is worthy of its name of Cote d'or. The churches here are handsome structures, as is also the palace of the Prince of Conde, where the Par- liament used to assemble. "The square before it is spacious and well-built, and the corn market is worthy of remark. The University of Dijon was formerly one of the most considerable in France, but my- stay was not sufficient, to enable me to enquire with accu- racy into its present state. Our company next day was augmented by two French officers, who were go- ing to Besancon, and who intended proceeding in this carriage as far as Dole, where smaller conveyances were to be had for those going to Geneva, Sec. as the Great Voiture went on to Lyons. These officers did not long continue silent, and politics seemed the subject which occupied the first place in their thoughts. — They said that Belgium and the Rhine were indispen- sable to France, and were particularly violent against Austria, for the part she had taken in the late contest. One oi them did not affect to conceal his attachment to the ex-Emperor; but the other, although he agreed with his companion in wishing, for a renewal of the H 74 war, did not seem at all pleased with Buonaparte for having said the French nation wanted character. They had both been at Moscow, and acknowleged that the Emperor had committed a capital error in not retreat- ing in time from what he himself acknowledged to be such a frightful climate. If a public carriage has not all the comfort and ex- pedition of a private one, it certainly has this advantage, that one often meets companions from whom may be derived amusement or information ; and I think those who travel with a view to either of those objects, would do well occasionally to go in one of those conveyances. In a foreign country, the attention of the traveller is continually attracted by a variety of objects of a novel nature, which can be best explained to him by the in- habitants of the country : besides, it is impossible to have any correct idea of the manners and customs of foreigners, without constantly associating with them, which, in general, English travellers do not much de- sire. Whilst abroad, I would wish to accommodate myself as much as possible, to the habits of the country in which I were to reside, but if I found them irksome, I would certainly hasten my departure. We reached Dole about the French hour of dinner : here our company separated, and, accompanied by a friend, I continued my journey to Geneva. The road which we took is only practicable during four or five months in the year, on account of the snow which is drifted from the mountains of Jura. Near Auxonne we passed a plain, where a battle had been fought be- 75 twcen the French and the Allied forces. Many houses had been destroyed, but the agriculture of the country- did not seem to have suffered by the contest. We passed through the village of Genlis, and within sight of the Chateau, the property of the lady of that name, well known by her numerous writings and compila- tions. We arrived late at Poligny, a small town, surround- ed by lofty mountains. On leaving the place, one hill occupies three hours in ascending; but the road is as good as the uneven surface of the country will permit. The people here begin to have quite a different appear- ance from the French : wooden shoes are generally worn; and the projecting roofs of the houses show that the climate is more rainy and severe than in the countries we had passed. In this vicinity are some of the finest forests I had yet seen in France, and the views from the road are occasionally interesting,— About two leagues from Poligny is Arbois, famous for its white wine. We had a bottle by way of experi- ment, and thought it not undeserving of the reputation it had acquired. A Frenchman observed, u Le vin rS est pas mauvais" which phrase may bo taken for a commendation, as they seldom carry their praise so far as to say a thing is positively good. The coun- try between Poligny and Moray exhibits a continued succession of fir-trees, unmixed with any thing to give variety to the scene. The woods, however, seem to afford shelter to but few birds ; and in most parts of the continent, even the singing-birds are not spared, 73 but included in the general proscription to gratify the palate of the epicure. We arrived to an English breakfast at Moray ; they told us its honey was in great repute throughout France, and we thought in deserved more than the ordinary commendation of a Frenchman. Every thing here was neat and clean, and both the town and appear- ance of its inhabitants brought North Wales strongly to my recollection. This being a frontier place, the French custom-house officers put seals on our port- manteaus, for which favour we paid two francs for each seal ; these were cut off with great formality on our arrival at Geneva. After having travelled for ma- ny hours amongst a succession of gloomy mountains, which afford nothing that can either interest or en- liven, I never recollect feeling a greater sensation of delight and astonishment, than when, from the summit of one of the mountains of Jura, I first beheld the lake and city of Geneva, backed by the mountains of Savoy, and by the Alps, which, even at this vast distance, made all the other mountains we had passed ap- pear but trivial. It is by contrast that all pleasures are heightened, and even the tour which I afterwards made amongst the Alps, did not lessen the force of that impression which the sudden appearance of this magnificent spectacle had left upon my mind. The road down the mountain is an astonishing work, and is part of the grand line of road made by Buonaparte, to facilitate the passage of troops into Italy over the Grand Simplon. A fountain near the road has an inscription to Napoleon th« Great; in one part the road winds through an. excavation in the rock. One cannot but here exclaim with the poet, What cannot Art and Industry perform, When science plans the progress of their toil * At Fernay we visited the Chateau, so long celebra- ted as the residence of Voltaire. It is now the proper- ty and residence of M. de Boudet, who, as we were informed, has made great improvements in the place since it has come into his possession. The saloon and bed-chamber of Voltaire are, howe- ver, preserved in exactly the same state as when he occupied them. There are a few portraits of his friends, and under his bust is this incription : " S:r.i esprit est partout et son coeur est ici." " His genius is every where, but his heart is here. 4 * His Cenotafi/i, as it is called, has a miserable mean appearance, and bears this inscription: " Mes manes sont consoles puisque mon cosur " Est au milieu de vous." • c My manes are consoled since my heart is with you.'* The formal taste in which the garden is laid out, but ill accords with the stupendous scenery which is seen on all sides. The approach to the Chateau IT ° from the road is through a double avenue of trees. Near the house stands the parish-church, and also a Heliconian fountain in the disguis. of a pump, of ex- cellent water, which we tasted, but without experien- cing any unusual effects. We had not leisure to pro- long our researches, as it was necessary for us to reach Geneva before the closing of the gates. If the first and distant appearance of the city of Geneva, of its beautiful lake, and of the lofty mountains by which it is surrounded, produces the strongest sensations of delight in the beholder, a nearer approach is not (as is too frequently the case) calculated to do away, or, at least, greatly to diminish the impression made by the distant view. Having, after a long descent, at length reached the Plain, the traveller cannot fail of being delighted with the richly cultivated scene which surrounds him, with the neatness of the villages, and with the apparent ease of the inhabitants of a country where property seems pretty equally divided, and where he is not shocked (as he is unhappily too generally throughout Europe) by the melancholly contrast between the splendour of the opulent, and the extreme misery of the peasantry. Here the peasant, as Goldsmith observes, Sees no contiguous p ilace rear its head, To shame the meaness of his humble shed ; Cheerful at morn, he wakes from short repose, Breathes the keen air and carols as he goes. The situation of Geneva is as striking as can be well imagined. It seems to rise out of the transparent waters 79 of its lake. Some tourists tells us, that, Naples and Constantinople excepted, no city in Europe can be com- pared to Geneva in point of situation, and those who have ascended the towers of its cathedral, will feel disposed to admit, that the prospect of the lake, the junction of the river Rhone with the Arve, the number of villas dispersed on all sides, the scene of cultivation which the nearer mountains present, almost to their summits, and the imposing effect produced by the more distant Alps, whose bases rest in Itally, and whose tops, covered with perpetual snow seem to unite with the clouds, present a spectacle which it would be indeed difficult to surpass. " While admiration, feeding at the eye And still unsated, dwells upon the scene," Cowper. The lake of Geneva (which, according to M. de Luc, is 187 toises, or 1203 English feet above the level of the Miditerranean Sea) is one of the most con- siderable in Europe, being about eighteen leagues in length, by about three and a half at its greatest width. Its waters are at this season about six feet higher than in the winter, and are of a beautiful blue colour, derived from the nature of the soil beneath. Its depth, near Meillerie, is 190 fathoms, that of the Baltic, according to Dr. Goldsmith, being only 1 15 fathoms. This lake abounds with fish of various kinds. I myself saw a trout of tivcntij-three pounds, and there have occasion- ally been taken of nearly double that weight. T.:ese extraordinarily large fish are often presented by the 80 republic to its allies, and are frequently sent as far as Paris or Berlin. The Rhone issuing, with vast rapi- dity, from the lake forms an island which is covered with houses, and constitutes the lower part of the city, which rises to the summit of the hill, where stand the cathedral and many elegant private houses. The city is, in general, tolerably well built; but many of the streets have domes, or arcades of wood, which are frequently fifty or sixty feet in height, and which have an elegant appearance, but are useful in the winter, and under some of them are rows of shops, containing every article of luxury or utility, in equal perfection with those that are to be met with in some of the great- est cities. Here is every appearance of the activity produced by the revival of commerce, after the long prohibition it suffered during the period whilst Geneva remained united to France. Tne cnief manufacture of Geneva is that of clocks and watches ; in the period of the prosperity of Gene- va, this trade was calculated to afford employment to five or six thousand persons, but at present it is much reduced. There are a considerable number of gold- smiths, and the ingenuity of the Genevese, produces very curious musical-watches, snuff-boxes, and seals, many of which are sent to Paris and London, where they find a ready sale ; they are sent likewise to Persia and America. There are considerable manufactures also of calico, muslin, &c. and a good deal of banking business is transacted. Perhaps there is no example 81 of a city so destitute of territory ', which has obtained such commercial celebrity, and the persevering indus- try of its inhabitants, enabled them to place large sums of money in the funds of other nations, particularly of England. The revenues of the state are much exceed- ed by those of many individuals ; but, during the op- pressive government of France, the taxes of Geneva were nearly quadrupled. The population of Geneva and its territory, having been so differently stated as to leave the truth involved in much uncertainty, M. Naville, a senator, who pos- sessed every facility for making the necessary inqui- ries, published a calculation, which assigns to the re- public a population of 35,000, of which number 26,000 resided in the city. This is a very large number, if we consider that the territory of this little state is so limi- ted as, according to Bourritt's Itinerary, to contain only 3 t<5o square leagues; being about 11,400 inhabitants to each square league. Bat, contracted as their terri- tory certainly is, those citizens of Geneva, with whom I have conversed, do not seem to wish its extension. They fear the introduction of religious dissentions, as the Savoyards, (on which side it could be most easily extended) are Roman Catholics, and by no means cor- dial with their neighbours, the Hugunots of Geneva, as they call them. Nor would the nobility of Savoy wish to be the subjects of so popular a government as that of Geneva. Religious differences have, at all times, been productive of the worst species of civil discord, and the Genevese (although they tolerate most fully all 'aa religious sects) are undoubtedly stronger at present. with their limited possessions, than they possibly could be with any increase of territory, accompanied by the chance of such unfortunate dissensions. All they seem desirous of, at present, is to see their little state consolidated ; it being at present intersected by the possessions of France, the Canton of Vaud, he. in such a manner as to oblige the Genevese to pass over some portion of the territories of those states, in visiting many of their own villages. But more of Ge- neva hereafter, as although I had so recently arrived therfe, I was soon to quit it for a short time. I found at my hotel a party, consisting of two of my countrymen and a French gentleman, who were waiting for a fourth person to join them, in making an excur- sion to the celebrated scenes of Chamouny and Mon- tanvert. This was an opportunity not to be neglected, par- ticularly as my former companion had determined on going into Italy, notwithstanding the very alarming accounts of its disturbed state, given us by some tra- vellers, lately arrived from thence, who had themselves been robbed, and who reported that the banditti, in many of the mountains, amounted to from 500 to 1500 men. The unsettled political state of Italy too, ren- dered the present, in my opinion, by no means an aus- picious moment, for an excursion of curiosity into that country. To see Italy well would occupy a longer portion of time than I had at my disposal, and if once across the Alps, it would be almost impossible to return without visiting Rome. Under these circumstances, I resolved to content myself with seeing Chamouny and Mt. Blanc, and I had every reason to be pleased with my determination, as the party were extremely agree- able, and we had the good fortune of having fine wea- ther for our excursion, an occurrence which is rare amongst such lofty mountains ; nor were we disposed to complain of the inconvenience of occasional showers in a country where it is not unusual for the rains to continue without intermission for many days. 84 CHAP. VII. Having made the necessary arrangements in the evening, our carriage was in readiness, at an early hour next morning. It was something like an English so- ciable, but had a leather cover which could occasion- ally be drawn over our heads, and of which we more than once experienced the utility, in protecting us from the very sudden and violent showers which we some- times met with. As soon as the rain was over, we drew back the cover, and enjoyed the romantic pros- pects which surrounded us. From Geneva we ascen- ded continually through a wild but not uninteresting country to Bonneville, a distance of about five leagues; here we breakfasted, and remained two or three hours to allow our horses to repose from the fatigues of the road. This little town has nothing particularly worthy of remark, and its appearance is dull, although it is the chief place of one of the three divisions which are formed of Savoy. Here is a bridge of stone (which is not usual in this country, where timber abounds, and where many of the rivers are so rapid* as to oblige the inhabitants to remove the bridges, at the commence- * ment of autumn) over the river Arve, t the course of which we followed for several leagues through the" valley of Cluse, so called from the little town of that name. This long and narrow district is surrounded by lofty mountains, and the traveller is often at a los^ to guess which way he can proceed, until some sudden turning discovers an outlet, barely sufficient to admit the passage of a carriage, and by various windings he arrives in the valley of Maglan, which presents a still more interesting variety of objects, amongst others the cascade of Nant d'Arpennas and many other inferior ones, which tumble from the mountains, and increase the rapidity of the Arve. About a league beyond the fall d'Arpennas is an excellent view of Mont Blanc, which crowned with all the horrors of a perpetual win- ter, presents one of the most sublime and majestic spectacles which it is possible to conceive. To de- scribe the contrast between its snowy summit, and the cultivated valley beneath, so as to convey any just idea of the scene, to those who have not themselves seen it, would require all the descriptive powers of a Radcliffc. We arrived to a late dinner at the hotel de Mont Blanc, at St. Martin, which is a large single house situated about a quarter of a league from the little town of Sa- lenche, of which I do not recollect having heard any thing remarkable, except that the right of burgership may be purchased for forty-five livres. The windows of our hotel, commanded a most astonishing extent of mountain scenery, diversified by the windings of the Arve through a well cultivated valley. The hotel was sufficiently comfortable, but the bill was extravagant beyond any precedent in the annals of extortion. We had occasion to remonstrate with our host on the sub- 86 ject, and our French companion exerted himself so much on the occasion, that at last we succeeded in persuading the landlord to make a considerable reduc- tion in his charges, which were out of all reason, ma- king every allowance that his house was so situated, as not to be accessible during the whole year. We were afterwards told that he would have considered himself amply paid by receiving the half of his first demand, and I found it is often the practice to ask of the En- glish at least double of what is charged to travellers of any other nation. Appearances were so much against our landlord, that one might say to him in the words of the epigram, " If thou art honest , thou'rt a wondrous cheat:' The carriage road ends at Salenche ; and we, there- fore, made the necessary arrangements to proceed on mules, and sent back our carriage to Geneva. It was the first time I had travelled in a country only accessi- ble on foot o?* by mules, and I cannot but add my testi- mony to that of all those who have ever made excur- sions into these mountains, respecting the very extra- ordinary and almost incredible safety with which the mule conveys his rider over tracks, which were any one to see suddenly, coming out of a civilized country, he would think it „the height of folly to attempt to pass even on foot. There are, however, places where it is expedient to climb for one's self, but as long as one remains on the back of the mule, it is advisable not to attempt to direct his course, but to submit one's rea- son for the time to the instinct of the animal. Our 87 guides assured me that they had never known a single instance of any one's having had reason to regret ha." ving placed this confidence in them ; and, indeed, it is by having the command of his head that the mule is enabled to carry his rider in safety over passes, which one is often afraid to recal to one's memory. Several of the mules in Savoy are handsome, but one of our party, who had crossed the Pyrenean mountains, thought the Spanish mules were much more so ; the ordinary price of a mule here, is from fourteen to twenty Louis d'Ors. The distance between St. Martin and Chamouny, is little more than six leagues, but from the extreme in- equality of the ground, and the intricacy of the paths, occupied a very long space of time in passing. We still continued to follow the course of the Arve, which, according to the opinions of some writers, is believed to have, at one period, formed a lake between the mountains which encompass this valley ; a conjecture which the marshy appearance of the ground seems to render probable. These mountains abound with an animal which is mostly an inhabitant of the Alps, the marmot, and there are a vast abundance of wild strawberries. The river is most considerable at this season of the year, being supplied with the meltings of the snow and ice. About two hours after our departure from St. Martin, we passed over the Pont des Chevres, which, from the extreme slightness of its construction, seems hardly secure enough to permit the passage of a goat ; and it 88 is* rendered more formidable to the nervous traveller by its vast height from the bed of the rocky torrent over which it passes. We went a little way out of the regular track to see the beautiful cascade of Chede, which is by M. Bour- ritt ascertained to be sixty-seven feet in height. A number of peasants attended us from a cottage, where we left our mules, and one of them carried a plank to serve as a bridge over a neighbouring stream, and levied toll on us for permission to pass over it. We returned in about a quarter of an hour to the cottage, and paid, as we thought, very liberally for the trouble the peasants had in holding the mules during that short time ; but where expectations are unreasonable, it is impossible to satisfy them ; and that was the case here. One old woman, in particular, exclaimed against us. She said, " We nvere English, and ought to give gold. 9 * Such is the idea entertained, even in these secluded mountains, of the riches of the English, that a sum, which would be received with thanks from the travel- lers of almost any other country, would be considered as an object of complaint if given by an Englishman; and the thoughtless profusion of some English travel- lers is a subject of regret to many persons, who, although less opulent, are still desirous of visiting foreign countries, as the inhabitants of the Continent, in general, receive from some of our fellow-subjects such an idea of the opulence of their country, that they think it impossible to charge all who come from thence too extravagantly. We next proceeded to the lake of 89 Chede, which is not far distant. It was first discover ed by M. Bourritt, when hunting a wolf amongst these mountains, as he mentions in his Itinerary, which con- tains much useful information, and is a necessary ap- pendage to the traveller in these wild districts. This lake, considering its limited extent, is a handsome object. Here is a curious species of moss which gives the banks a singular appearance. We stopped to breakfast, as well as to refresh our mules, at a little cottage-inn near the village of Servoy, in the neigh- bourhood of which are mines of lead and copper, to- gether with many large buildings and furnaces for the preparation of the ore. We here met another party also going to Chamouny They had preferred travel- ling in little carriages drawn by mules, which they were obliged to quit continually, by the uneven nature of the road ; and they did not arrive till some time after us. We here found that one of our party was mounted on the mule which had lately had the honour of carrying the Ex-Empress Maria Louisa, who passed this way on her tour to Chamouny. She is said to have appeared very thoughtful ; but the guides praised both her courage and her beauty. We breakfasted with the other travellers, under the shade of an orchard, near the inn ; and the repast was much more luxurious than we could have supposed' from the rustic appearance of the place. As soon as the guides informed us that they were ready to attend us, we continued our journey to Chamouny, making another little detour to visit the glacier dee Bos-sons. 96 Here we were astonished at the singular appearance which was exhibited by a vast number of pyramids and towers of ice, many of them upwards of 100 feet in height, and which remained at this season almost in the centre of a valley richly cultivated and well inhabir ted. The definition of the word glacier has given rise to several arguments. I shall therefore insert that given by the celebrated M. de Saussure, in his tour amongst the Alps, of which he was one of the first and most able explorers. He says, " The word glacier designates any one of those cavities, natural or artifi- cial, which preserve the ice, or guard it from the rays of the sun." This glacier is only three quarters of a league from-. Chamouny, or the priory, where we soon arrived. The valley of Chamouny is about eighteen English miles long, and hardly one in breadth. It is as varied a scene as can possibly be imagined ; and no where can the contrast between nature in its wild and in its cultivated state, make a more forcible impres- sion on the mind. Many of the farms here are very neat. They sow the grain in May, and reap in August. We remarked several small chapels and crosses where promises of indulgence for thirty days are held out to those persons who shall repeat there a certain number of prayers. One of these chapels, more spa- cious than the rest, was constructed by a bishop of Sion. The village of Chamouny is not large, but contains several extremely good inns, which, since the opening of the Continent? have had their full share of English 91 travellers, whose names, in the books of the hotel where we lodged, more than doubled those of all other nations wno had visited the various grand scenes with which this country abounds ; and the most lucrative employment here is that of a guide. Strangers are often much imposed on by them, and should therefore be careful to get recommended to such as will conduct them safely to ali that is curious. We met a party who had been deceived by either the ignorance or la- ziness of their guides ; and who, we found, after spend- ing two or three days in exploring this neighbourhood, had seen but a small portion of what is worthy of atten- tion. The air here is of a very wintry temperature. This, however, is not astonishing, when we consider that this place is situated 500 toises, or 2,040 feet above the lake of Geneva, and 3,168 feet above the level of the sea, but 11,532 feet below the summit of Mont Blanc. Chamouny is the chief place in the commune to which it gives name, and which is inhabited by a remarkably hardy and intelligent peasantry. I was informed that the Austrians obliged this district to furnish 100 cows, a vast quantity of cheese, butter, tec. See. ; but the inhabitants were so much rejoiced at being released from the French yoke, that they did not complain of these exactions. As far as I could judge, the wish of the young men here seems to be, that Sa- voy should form a canton of Switzerland ; but the old men, who formerly lived under the govornment of the King of Sardinia, wish for the restoration of the order 92 of things to which they were long accustomed ; and it seems most probable that the King of Sardinia will be restored to that part of this ancient patrimony of his family which has not been ceded to France The Sa- voyards complain of this division of their country. The part assigned to France is the most valuable district, and forms above a third of the duchy : in it is situated its ancient capital, Chambery. It is, however, not pro- bable that the wishes of the Savoyards will be consul- ted as to these points, which will be determined by the Allied Powers on the grounds of fiolitical expediency. I also made inquiries concerning the state of taxa- tion in Savoy, and found, that under France the inhabi- tants were obliged to pay more than three times the sum they had paid to Sardinia. The imposts were here the same as in the rest of France, no distinction having been made between this mountainous country and the other more productive departments. Doors and windows are amongst the articles taxed, and the stamp duties are very heavy. Having refreshed ourselves sufficiently to encounter fresh difficulties, we determined to visit Montanvert, and the Mer de Glace, two of the most distinguished objects of curiosity which this place boasts of. Having provided ourselves with guides and mules, we set out accordingly ; and, after quickly passing the narrow valley, began to ascend mountains which abound with chamois, and which, by their height and irregularity, seemed to render our arrival on their summit an event not speedily to be expected. We had more reason than ever to be astonished at the extraordinary security with which our mules carried us up such abrupt as- cents, which in many places more resembled a flight of steps, hewn roughly in a rock, than a practicable road, and there were in many places hardly any marks to shew which was the preferable way. After a continual ascent of between two and three hours, we were advised to send back our mules to wait our return in the valley, and to continue our way on foot, which we did accordingly, being provided with long sticks, pointed with iron, to assist us in climbing the remainder of the ascent. Our arrival on the sum- mit amply repaid us for the toil which it had cost us : the view is not to be described ;— before us lay the Mer de Glace (sea of ice) extending to the length of four leagues, and being about three quarters of a league in width ; which is one of the most sublime spectacles in nature. Around us were mountains much more ele- vated than those which cost us so much trouble in as- cending, which consisting of granite, dispersed in the most majestic forms, and being the perpetual abode of frosts, storms, and tempests, leave a most awful im- pression on the mind. It is impossibie to behold these stupendous scenes without, in the language of the Psalmist, " ascribing unto the Lord worship and power." Although we had ascended not less than three thou- sand feet, yet to our astonishment, Mont Blanc appeared nearly as elevated as when we viewed it from the val- ley. It is unquestionably the highest mountain in the 94 three old quarters of the world (being exceeded in height only by the Andes) ; and I shall insert here the calculations of its elevation, and of that of some other mountains : English feet. Chimboraco, the highest of the Cor- dilleras 20,608 Mont Blanc, above the level of the Mediterranean, according to Sir G. Shuckburgh 15,662 Ditto, according to M. de Luc - - 1 5,302 *. Mount Caucasus - 15,000 Etna, according to M. de Saussure 10,700 Teneriffe .----_ 10,954 The highest mountain in Scotland is Ben-Nevis, 4,327 feet. In Wales, Snowdon, 3,555. In England, Ingleborough, 3,200 feet. In Ireland, Croagh Pa- trick, 2,666. Mont Blanc is easily distinguished from amongst the other mountains (of which Mont Buet, of 9,984 feet in height approaches the nearest to it) when seen on this side, by the astonishing altitude to which it rises, and by the vast body of snow with which its top and sides are covered to the perpendicular height of above 4000 feet, without the intervention of any rock, to take off from that extreme whiteness that gives name to this mountain, uniting in the circular form of its summit all the majesty that can possibly be ima- gined. We partook of some refreshment in an apart- ment on the summit of Montanvert, which the extreme 95 coicl of the atmosphere rendered very acceptable.— Having enrolled our names in a book kept here for that purpose, which abounds with the praises of all travellers who have viewed these scenes, we descended to the Mer de Glace, which is appropriately so named, from the striking resemblance which its broken masses of ice bear to the waves of the ocean, and the resem- blance is still further heightened by the blue appear- ance which the numerous cavities present to the eye. We walked a little way on this frozen ocean, the better to contemplate its vast extent, as well as to have it in our power to boast of having walked on a mass of ice in the month of August. The depth of the ice is cal- culated to be from three to four hundred feet, and the solemnity of this scene of desolation is increased by the sound of several torrents tumbling from the surround- ing rocks. We again returned to the summit of Mon- tanvert, and were again lost in astonishment at the scene ; which did not fail to recall to my recollection the beautiful lines of Pofie, in his Essay on Criticism : So pleas'd at first the tow'ring Alps we try, Mount o'er the vales, and seem to tread the sky, Th' eternal snows appear already past, And the first clouds and mountains seem the last, But, those attain'd, we tremble to survey The growing labours of the leng-then'd way, Th' increasing prospect tires our wand'ring eyes, Hills peep o'er hiLs, and Alps on Alps arise. Having sufficiently contemplated the view, we began to think of returning to the valley, which presented a 96 most enlivening appearance after the chaos we had left. The descent was much easier than the ascent, and we were not long before we met our mules, and returned to our inn in great prosperity, although we had, most of us, occasional falls during so difficult a progress. We had great reason to be pleased with our expedi- tion, and were most fortunate in the clearness of the day, without which our labour would have been lost. The valley is, of course, much more mild in its atmos- phere than the mountain, but the weather was autum- nal, and a fire was quite indispensable to our comfort. There are no less \h?xijive glaciers in this valley ; they are separated from each other by forests and by culti- vated lands, and this intermixture presents an appear- ance which, from its singularity, cannot fail to astonish the beholder. These glaciers all lie at the foot of that vast chain of mountains, which supply the sources of many of the greatest rivers in Europe. I observed that the mountains in this vicinity were the first I had seen enlivened by the mixture of the larch with the fir, which produces a very pleasing effect, and continues afterwards to be often seen. The vast quantities of Alpine strawberries that every where abound on these mountains, have a most excellent flavor, and numbers of children employed in gathering them find ready sale among the numerous strangers, attracted by the wonders of the neighbourhood. These Alps possess great attractions for the botanist, who is surrounded by saxafrage, rhododendrons, and a variety of other plants, 97 which he must highly value, but which I have not suf- ficient knowledge of the science to distinguish particu- larly. Nor would the mineralogist find fewer attrac- tions in the rocks themselves, than the botanist in the plants which they produce. We did not witness any of those avalanches which are said to fall so frequently from the mountains, and of the dreadful effects of which such interesting statements have been published. The whole of this valley, however, appears to be con- tinually threatened, by the enormous masses which hang over it, and seem to need the application of but a trifling force, to move them from situations, to which they are to all appearance so slightly attached. 98 CHAP. VIII. We left Chamouny at an early hour to proceed on our way to Martigny, from which it is nine leagues distant; but as there is nothing which deserves the name of a road, we continued on our journey on mules. The morning was so very hazy, that we were prevent- ed from enjoying the prospect from the Col de Balme, and we travelled for several hours amongst mountains, at one moment enveloped in the fog, which was some- times the next instant carried to a considerable dis- tance from us, by one of those sudden currents of air which are so common in these elevated situations.— As we approached Valorsine, the rain began to fall, but fortunately it was not of long continuance, and af- terwards the weather became much clearer. Nothing can surpass the romantic situation of this little village, its valley is one of the most secluded we had yet seen amongst the Alps The impression which this scene has left on my mind, can never be effaced; every thing presented an appearance of tran- quillity, and of extreme simplicity. It was the feast of the patron saint of the village, and the peasants were in their best dresses. The women were of a better ap- pearance than is usual in Savoy ; their dress attracted the particular attention of our French companion, who had never before quitted his own country, and who had 99 previously expressed a contempt for Savoy, which he now seemed willing to retract; and certainly it would be difficult to see a spot where primitive simplicity was more conspicuous. We determined to refresh ourselves here, and afterwards went through the village to the church, which was decorated with flowers for the fes- tival ; and during our walk we were saluted with the utmost civility by the peasants, who surveyed us with a curiosity which proved that they had but little inter- course with strangers. A Monk saluted me, and said in Latin he was rejoiced again to see Englishmen. — In one of the groups, I observed a fortune-teller, who seemed to have a good deal of custom, but her dialect was one of the most singular I ever heard. The inn where we breakfasted, like most of the houses here* was raised on beams, to allow for the depth of the snow in winter. They are built of timber, and cover- ed with pieces of fir, cut to about the size of tiles.-— The rooms were very small, and could with difficulty accommodate the unusual number of guests then as- sembled Civility was more abundant than provisions, but there was more fruit than one could expect to ses amongst these mountains. If the peasants of Meillcrie, which is the part of Savoy Rousseau took so much pleasure in describing, at all resemble those of Valorsine, he cannot there at least be accused of having dealt in fiction. M. de Saussure relates an anecdote which serves to give an idea of the Savoyards in these situations, so rem from the corruption incident to cities. He says, "I 100 was one day prosecuting my researches amongst the Alps, and being without provisions, was induced to take some fruit not far distant from a cottage. I ob- served a woman coming towards me, as I concluded, to ask payment for the fruit ; and I assured her I had no intention of going away without satisfying her, She answered, ' 1 came out thinking you had lost your way, and that I might be able to set you right. As for the fruit, I will take nothing for it. He who made it, did not intend it for the use of one in particular." We had not yet performed above half our journey and as it was getting late, we were obliged by the re- presentation of our guides to continue on our road, which lay through a romantic district, abounding with streams and falls of water. Some of the fir-trees on the Tete Noire opposite to us, are said to be above 100 feet in height. We were after the first league fre- quently obliged to dismount, having in some places literally to ascend steps cut it the rock, which I think must have not a little puzzled two gentlemen, who set out on horseback about the same time we did from Chamouny, but who did not reach Martigny for a long time after us, and were greatly tired with the difficul- ties they had to encounter. The village of Trient is in a romantic situation, but has not the same attractions as Valorsine. The hill near it is astonishingly difficult of ascent. The guides wished us to let the mules shift for themselves ; and we all at last arrived at the summit. An hour after- wards, we reached the Mount. Fourcle^ from whieh is 101 seen a vast extent of country. This view is by some travellers considered as surpassing all others in Swit- zerland, as it embraces the greatest part of the Can- ton of the Valais, watered by the Rhone; and we could distinctly see its capital city Sion, although above eight leagues distant. Martigny and St. Bran- chier seemed to lie at our feet ; but we had still a long way to descend before we reached them. The city of Sion will long be remembered as the scene of one of the most horrible of those outrages which cast such a just odium on the French name. It was given up to the savage fury of an army irritated by the brave but ineffectual resistance, which its inhabitants attempted to oppose against the invaders of their property and liberty. But here, as in too many other instances? numbers occasioned the worse to prevail over the bet- ter cause. A person on whose authority I can confide, assured me he was at Geneva, when a part of the French army arrived there after this glorious exploit, and that rather than return without plunder, they car- ried away with them the miserable household furni- ture of these unfortunate people, which sold at Gene- va for a sum so trifling as hardly to pay for the ex- pense of conveying them thither. It may seem i?i~ credible, but it is however true, that many of the inhabi- tants of the Valois, regret the recovery of their inde» fiendence, and would wish again to see their country in the possession of the French. They prefer the ad- vantages which Buonaparte's military road, and the frequent passage of his troops into Italy afforded them R 2 102 of making money, to their present liberty under a go- vernment of their own selection. The country, for about a league before the entrance into Martigny, becomes much more civilized than that we had just passed. The fields are well cultivated, and are divided by hedges from the road: here are some of the largest walnut trees I have ever seen. On the lett we remarked the venerable and exten- sive remains of la Bathia, an ancient castle, formerly inhabited by the Bishops of Sion. It is boldly situated on a rock, w.iich rises over that impetuous torrent the Dreuse, which a little below falls into the Rhone. The town of Martigny is situated on the Rnone, in that delightful plain which we had so much admired from the Fourcle, and which did not disappoint the ex- pectations we had formed of it. It is well watered, highly cultivated, and abounds with neat cottages, and seems almost to realize some fancied descriptions of enchanted valleys, being shut out from the surround- ing countries by a formidable barrier of snow-clad mountains, and possessing in itself so attractive an as- pect. Martigny is a weil-built town ; and some anti- quarians insist, that it is the ancient Octodurum of the Romans. I can give no opinion on a point which has occasioned differences amongst the learned ; but the present appearance of the inhabitants was very favour- able, it being a holiday here as well as at Vaiorsine, and although their festivity was not altogether marked by the same simplicity, yet it was sufficiently removed from that which prevails in many ether countries to interest us by its singularity. We were here amused with an account of two English gentlemen, who at- tempted to ascend Mont Blanc, notwithstanding the assurances they received of the impracticability of the attempt under present circumstances, as a chasm had lately been made by the thaw on one side of the moun- tain ; but they were not to be intimidated either by the advice of the inhabitants, or by the accounts of the hardships suffered by M. Saussure, and judging with Hannibal, " Nil actum reputans si quid superesset agendum." * Think nothing gained while ought remains." They set out on this difficult enterprise, attended by eighteen guides, but were at length obliged to desist, after running many hazards, and after having expen- ded at least 50 pounds. If they failed in accomplish- ing their undertaking, they had at least the satisfaction of exciting much wonder amongst the surrounding peasants, at the curiosity and rashness of the English. Our party were more easily satisfied; and having seen as much as could be accomplished without very great difficulty, we were contented to judge of the rest from the ample descriptions that have been published res- pecting them. I could have wished, however, that time and the consent of the majority of the party, would have per- mitted my ascending to the convent on the Great St. Bernard ; but being left in the minority, I did not feel 104 disposed to make the excursion by myself, and I there- fore prepared to accompany my friends back to Geneva. At Martigny, we entered on a part of the grand road of the Simplon, and bidding adieu to our mules, and to the mountains over which they had carried us, we pro- ceeded on our journey in a charaban (or light country cart, with seats across it) to Bex. I did not observe that extreme indolence in the inhabitants of the Lower Valais, with which they have been reproached by some travellers They are no doubt very poor, but their cottages are not devoid of neatness and comfort. Our attention was soon attracted by the famous cascade called the Pisse Vache % the beauty of which consists chiefly in its seeming to issue immediately from a cavity in the rock, which is surrounded by thorns and bushes. Its perpendicular height cannot be estimated at less than 200 feet, although many make it double that, or even more. The country of the Valais is re- markable for the vast numbers of persons it contains, affected with the goitres^ and also of idiots. The neigh- bouring provinces are also more or less affected with these maladies. Many writers have exerted their ingenuity in endea- vouring to account for this singularity with greater or less success ; but what at Geneva is considered as the best treatise on the subject, is that by Coxe in his Ac- count of Switzerland. A gentlemen there lent me a French edition of this valuable work, from which I extracted the following account of the origin of the Goitres) (or extraordinary swellings about the glands 105 of the throat,) which in Switzerland is considered as very satisfactory. Mr. Coxe says, " The opinion that water derived from the melting of snow, occasions these excrescences, is entirely des- titute of foundation, which one cannot doubt if it is considered how generally such water is used in many parts of Switzerland, where the inhabitants are not at all subject to this malady, which is, however, very pre- valent in parts where no such water abounds. " These swellings are also frequently seen near Na- ples, in Sumatro, 8cc. where there is little or no snow." Mr. C. proceeds to shew that this malady is occasioned by a calcareous matter called in Swiss, Tuf j and adds, ( i This stone resembles very much the incrustations at Matlock, in Derbyshire, which dissolve so completely in the water as not to lessen its transparency ; and I think -that the particles of this substance so dissolved, resting in the glands of the throat, occasion the Goitres, and during the course of my travels in different parts of Europe, I have never failed to observe, that where this TuJ\ or calcareous deposit is common, Goitres are equally so. I have found an abundance of tuf, and also of goitrous persons in Derbyshire, the Valois, the Valteline, at Lucerne, Berne, Fribourg, in parts of Piedmont, in the valleys of Savoy, at Milan, and at Dresden. I also observed that at Berne and Fribourg, the public fountains are supplied from sources where there is a vast quantity of this calcareous deposit. — General Pfiffer has informed me, that there is but one spring at Lucerne, which is free from tuf, and that 105 those who reside in its vicinity, are much less subject to the goitres than the rest of the inhabitants. A sur- geon also, whom I met at the baths of Louesch, in- formed me that he had frequently extracted from dif- ferent goitres, small Jiieces of tuf which is also found in the stomachs of cows, and the dogs of this country are also subject to this malady. This gentleman added, that, to complete the cure of young persons attacked by this complaint, he either removed them from waters impregnated with tuf, or recommended them to drink only of water that had been purified. The children of goitrous parents are often born with these swellings ; but there are also instances of children born with goi- tres, whose parents are free from them." That celebrated naturalist, M. de Saussure, attri- butes Goitres not to the water, but to the heat of the climate, and to the stagnation of the air, and he informs us, he has never seen Goitres in any place elevated 5 or 6000 toises above the level of the sea, and that they are most common in valleys where there is not a free circulation of air. " But it may be observed, that in these elevated situations, fountains are too near their sources to dissolve as much calcareous sediment as by the time they reach the plain. Some say, that stran- gers are never attacked by the Goitres, but the truth is, they are only less subject to them than natives of the country. In fine, we may observe, that if snow water occasions the Goitres wherever they abound, there should also be snow water, which experience proves not to be the fact. If the concentration of heat lor and stagnation of the air are necessary to their forma- tion, it would follow that they should not abound in those places where the air circulates freely, which is not less contrary to fact than the former supposition. If waters impregnated with tuf, or certain calcareous substances, produce the Goitres, it will follow, that in every place where they abound, the inhabitants should drink of waters so impregnated, which seems conso- nant to the truth of the fact." The same causes which occasion the Goitres, have probably a considerable operation in producing the number of idiots, as they are alwas in most abundance where the Goitres pre- vail. Such is the intimate and inexplicable sympathy between the body and the mind. When the Goitres become large, they produce a difficulty of breathing, and render the person so affected, extremely indolent and languid. These idiots are treated with great re- gard by the rest of the inhabitants of the country, who even consider them, in some degree, peculiarly fa- voured by Providence — thinking that they are certain . of eternal happiness, as not being capable of forming any criminal intentions. Exaggeration is the common fault of travellers, and, to judge o£ the accounts given by some who have visited this country, a stranger would be led to suppose, that all its population were either idiots, or afflicted with Goitres. The fact, how- ever, is, that the inhabitants of the Valais are in general a strong and healthy race, but that these two unfortu- nate maladies are here in greater frequency than in any other country. 108 Our next stage, after leaving Martigny, was St. Maurice, which derives its name from an abbey, founded by Sigismund, King of Burgudny, about the commencement of the sixth Gentury, in honour of a saint, who is said to have here suffered martyrdom, having refused to abjure Christianity at the command of the Emperor Maximin. Its more ancient name is said by antiquarians to have been Augaunum. This place is very justly considered as the key of the Lower Valais, of which it is the chief town. Its bridge over the Rhone is of one arch, of 130 feet, which is thought to be the work of the Romans, and by its boldness does not seem unworthy of a people whose edifices are so justly distinguished for their elegance and durabi- lity. Here is also a curious Mosaic pavement, and the antiquity oi the place is proved incontestably by the many ancient medals and inscriptions which have been found here at different periods. It must, indeed, have been always remarkable as a military position, and it is difficult to imagine one of greater natural strength, or more easily defensible by a small force against superior numbers. The road, which is ex- tremely narrow, passes for a considerable length under a mountain, which is absolutely inaccessible. Having passed the bridge, we entered the territories ©f the ancient canton of Berne, but now of Vaud (as I think there appears to be but little doubt that it will be speedily ackowledged as such by the Swiss diet.) Here our passports were demanded, but more in com- pliance with old regulations, than from any mistrust of 109 us ; and one of our party having forgotten his pass- port, the officer was perfectly satisfied with his leaving his name and address. The Rhone is here of astonishing rapidity, and its waters have quite a milky hue, from the vast quan- tities of melted snow with which they are supplied. On quitting the lake at Geneva, the river is of a trans- parent blue colour, which is attributed partly to its having deposited its sediment in the lake, and partly to the nature of the soil over which it there passes. The rest of our stage was through a picturesque coun- try, and the road was excellent. MO CHAP. IX. We found at Bex an excellent inn, which is not un- deserving the reputation it has acquired of being the best in Switzerland. This little town is situated amongst lofty mountains, which the industry of the peasants has cultivated wherever it was practicable, and they often carry their cattle with great labour to little spots of pasture which would otherwise have been lost, as without assistance, they could not have arrived at them. The cottages on the side of the Valais are so placed, as to contribute greatly to enliven the sce- nery ; and they are also remarkable for their singular construction, being mostly built on wooden pillars, several feet above the surface of the ground. Many of the inhabitants have two or three houses in different parts of their possessions, which they inhabit according as the season of the year requires their at- tention to the different places where they are situated. These people are said to be descended from the nor- thern tribes, and certainly resemble them in their wan- derings ; I have seen a whole hamlet deserted, the season not requiring the residence of the people. In countries which boast a larger portion of civilization, the fashion prevails over the division which the seasons seem to point out. An inhabitant of the Valais would no doubt be surprised at the summer being the season Ill in which our fashionables resort to London, from the purer air of the country. The Valais abounds with vineyards, but the wines are by no means palatable to persons who have tasted those of more favoured coun- tries. In the vicinity of Bex and Aigle are the only salt springs in Switzerland. They are of vast extent, and the view of the subterranean galleries, and of the reser- voirs of brine, is very striking. The town of Aigle is principally built of black marble, which is in great abundance in its neighbourhood, and the polishing of which affords employment to a number of persons. I observed more corn in this district than I had be- fore seen in Switzerland, but was informed that it did not grow a sufficient quantity for the consumption of its inhabitants, who are said to exceed 10,000. The church of Bex is neat, and has been lately repaired* We next arrived at Villeneuve, which is only remark- able as a pla.ce of embarkation on the lake of Geneva. Our plan was to return to Geneva by water, but the violence of the wind, which was against us, and which had greatly ruffied the lake, obliged us to continue our journey along its banks. The length of this lake is about 50 or 55 English miles, and its breadth from 10 to 12. This vast body of water is sometimes so much agitated by sudden storms from the surrounding moun- tains, as to be covered with waves like the sea. We were highly pleased with the extraordinary scene of cultivation which its banks presented ; they are some- times extremely steep, but are formed by the uncea- 112 sing industry of the inhabitants into terraces supported by walls, and if their labour in originally making these divisions is calculated to astonish, their perseverance in repairing, and sometimes in rebuilding them, after the torrents have carried them away, is not less worthy of praise. The industry of the inhabitants seems con- tinually threatened by the vast masses of rocks which hang over their possessions, and which sometimes cover them with ruin. We saw an enormous mass which had fallen from one of the mountains, and is now in the lake, having been removed thither by the inhabi- tants after it had for some time completely obstructed the road. We passed near the castle of Chillon, which is singularly situated, being built on some rocks in the lake, by which it is completely surrounded. It consists of a number of circular towers, and was formerly used as a state prison A more secure position, for such an edifice, it is difficult to conceive. Before our arrival at Vevay, we saw the viliage of Clarens, so much cele- brated by Rousseau. Vevay is a handsome town, with about 4000 inhabitants ; and is, after Lausanne, the principal place in the canton of Vaud. The prin- cipal church is situated on an eminence above the town ; from its tower I saw a most magnificent pros- pect, embracing nearly the whole of the lake, (which is here nearly at its greatest breadth) the entrance of the Rhone through a romantic valley, and the stupen- dous scenery of the Alps, heightened by the numerous villages on the Savoy side the lake. For the union of 113 wild and cultivated scenery this view stands unequal- led. No description of mine could do it justice : * Car la parole est toujours reprimee Quand le sujet surmonte le disant." " When we most strongly would delight express, Words often fail in which oar thoughts to dress/' In this church is the tomb of the celebrated General Ludlow, who died here in 1693, aged 63. His monu- ment, according to custom, only speaks his praise j and makes no mention of his having been a member of that assembly which condemned the ill-fated Charles to death. Over the door of the house he inhabited, is this motto, " Omne Solum Forti Patria" He had resided for some time at Lausanne, but fearing the fate of Lisle, who was assassinated, he retired to this piace. Between Vevay and Lausanne is the vineyard of Vaux, which bears a great reputation. We passed through the village of Cully and Lutri, both situated on the lake, and after mounting a considerable hill ar- rived at Lausanne, which is the capital of the canton of Vaud. It stands on three hills, and on the intervening valleys, which being very steep, render its situation more picturesque than convenient. It is situated about 400 feet above the level of the lake, from which it is distant about half a league ; the village of Ouchy scrves as its port, and carries on a good deal of trade, Lausanne contains several remains which prove its antiquity, and several Roman inscriptions are preserved l2 114 in the town-house, which is a handsome building.' — Here are three churches, one on each of the hills. Of these the cathedral is well worthy of attention. It is said to have been founded by one of the ancient kings- ©f Burgundy, and is certainly superior to any church I had hitherto seen in Switzerland. Its architecture exhibits various specimens of Gothic : there are many windows of painted glass in good preservation, and also • several handsome monuments. The choir is hand- some, and its pillars are of black marble. Its spire rises to a great height, and from the church-yard there is a fine prospect of the lake, and the surrounding country, with which I should have been more delight- ed, had I not so recently seen the still grander scene which Vevay commands. The population of Lausanne is computed at 8,000, and they are very industrious ; there are manufactories of hats and cottons, and the printing business is carried on to a greater extent than in any other town in Switzerland. There are also several jewellers' shops, and watchmakers' ware- houses. Of all the Swiss towns this is considered as the most remarkable for the adoption of French fashions, and there is much more dissipation here than at Geneva, as it is the constant residence of many wealthy fami- lies ; but, with few exceptions, the houses are neither large nor well built. Near the church is shewn the residence of Gibbon, the historian, and his library is now the property of a gentleman of this town, who purchased it in England, 115 Lausanne was formerly subject to its bishops, who were princes of the German Empire. A council was held here in 1448, when Pope Felix F., to restore peace to the Romish church, and extinguish the schisms to which it was then a prey, resigned the tiara and retired to the Abbey of Ripaille, in Savoy, a second time. This prince is distinguished by some of the his- torians of his century by tlie title of the Solomon of the age. He succeeded to the dukedom of Savoy, by the name of Amadeus VII., and having abdicated that sovereignty, retired to the abbey of Ripaille, which he had long admired as a secluded retreat, and to which he was a great benefactor. His restless disposition having induced him to seek the papal dignity, he, soon after obtaining it, became a second time a recluse, but did not subject himself to any great mortification. This remarkable character died in 1451, aet. 69, at Geneva; he was buried with a Bible under his head, with this inscription, the application of which, I do not exactly understand : " La ville de Geneva est situee au milieu des mon- tagnes ; son territoire est sablonneux, tres-peu etendu, et les habitans sont curieux de nouveautes." M The city of Geneva is situated amongst mountains, its ter- ritory is sandy, and of small extent, and its inhabitants are curious concerning novelty." The reformation was established in the Pays de Vaud, in 1536, after a public controversy had been held between the Protestant and Romish ecclesiastics. The environs of Lausanne present as cheerful and ani- 116 mated a sight as is to be seen in any part of Switzer- land, and the view from the public walk, in particular, is enlivened by the bays and promontories, which di- versify the sides of the lake. Our first stage, after leaving Lausanne, was Morges, which is situated on the lake : it consists chiefly of two well built streets, and carries on a good deal of trade, having a secure port with two moles, which, when seen from a distance, have a good effect, being ornamented with turrets. The church is a handsome edifice of Grecian architecture, and is calculated to accommo- date a congregation much more numerous than the ' town affords. But, in general, modern churches are not to be reproached for being on too large a scale. The public walk is near the water ; it is shaded by lofty rows of glens, and presented, when we saw it, a very lively appearance, as it was under its shade that the town of Morges entertained at dinner, two compa- nies of infantry, and their officers, sent from Zurich to garrison Geneva. No place could be better adapted for the purpose, during so hot a season. The convivi- ality and good humour which prevailed were unbound- ed, and the patriotic tendency of the toasts, given by those at the upper table, was proved by the cheers with which they were received by all the others. The road from Morges to Rolle does not continue along the banks of the lake, which is, however, occa- sionally seen, and heightens the beauty of the country, by the effect produced by its waters. We passed near the town of Aubonne, which is chiefly distinguished by 117 the venerable castle, which formerly protected it from attack, and now adds to the beauty of its appearance. Rolle is a charming village : having neither walls, nor gates, it is denied tne title of a town, which it certainly merits more than many paltry places, which have no other pretensions to the name, than the circumstance of their being so enclosed. It consists chiefly of one wide and well built street; it is situated on the lake, which is here very wide, and is surrounded by a coun- try inferior to none we had passed. There is but little trade carried on here. Its mine- ral waters are, however, an attraction to strangers, and the society is generally pleasant. Many families of distinction reside in this neighbourhood, and their villas are handsome. I was particularly struck with the situation of one, which had been built by a Dutch gen- tleman ; it was of an oval form, and crowned with a dome. We found its owner had lately returned to Holland ; his house was shut up, and we could not gratify our curiosity in going over it. After dinner we took a turn on the promenade, which is laid out with great taste. From thence we visited the castle, for- merly the residence of the Barons of Rolle, but now vested in the commune by purchase, and applied to various purposes. One part is reserved for public meetings, another as a poor house, and a third portion accommodates the school of the district. We entered into conversation with a person whom we met at the gate (who proved to be the master of the school) ; and who, after having taken several pinches of snuft from 118 the box of one of our party, became extremely com- municative, and shewed us some of the apartments of the castle, as well as the garden, where is a terrace washed by the lake, which as the sun had long set, and as its waters presented an unruffled surface, was alto- gether one of the most tranquillizing scenes which I have ever witnessed, and which was heightened by the venerable and mouldering appearance of this part of the castle. We contemplated the scene for some time in silence, and it was not without regret that we left it. We arrived at an early hour next morning at Nyon, which is also built on the margin of the lake. It is chiefly remarkable for its Porcelain manufactory, and for the handsome appearance of its castle, situated above the town. Very near it is the Chateau de Pran- gin, which has been purchased within the last few months by Josefih Buonaparte^ who proposes to console himself in this retirement for the loss of regal power. His carriage passed us just before we entered Nyon ; and we were told he was on his way to another house which he has in this neighbourhood, where he mostly resides, to superintend the alteration he is now carry- ing on at Prangin. We went to see the chateau^ and found a considerable number of men employed about it. It is a large building, with a tower at each angle, and surrounds a paved court. The terrace commands a charming prospect, and no man could desire a more agreeable residence. We entered into conversation with an officer of his titular majesty's household, who said it was very natural we should desire to see one of 119 the members of a family which had of late acted so distinguished a part in Europe. He told us that King Joseph was extremely fond of hunting, and intended to enclose a large portion of the land he had purchased with a wall, in order to form a chasse pour les betes sauvages. This will be a great novelty in this highly improved country, and the walls must cost a vast sum of money. We waited some time, but without success, in hope of seeing his majesty. He will be probably much happier in this retirement than if the armies of his brother had succeeded in placing him on a throne which he wanted ability to fill with honor to himself, or with advantage to the people over whom Buona- parte designed he should act as governor and promul- gator of his oppressive system. The Spaniards despised Joseph extremely, and gave him the appellation of El Rey Botelli, from his love of wine ; drunkenness being a vice to which the Span- iards are not addicted. The hills which bound the lake near Nyon produce excellent wine, when compared with the rest of the Pays de Vaud. The vin de la Cote is much esteem- ed ; I cannot, however, with all the partiality 1 feel for Switzerland, contend for the general excellence of its wines; and although it is said, "Bacchus amat colles," yet I think the hills of the Pays de Vaud will hardly contend for this favour with those of the Rhin- gau and of Burgundy. Between Nyon and Copet we saw some of the artillery of this canton practising at a 120 mark, and were informed that they exercise here in turns, and that they are great proficients in the art of taking a correct aim. It is doubtless well to be prepa- red to resist an enemy who may wish to seize and oppress one's country ; but I hope Switzerland may not soon have to contend with the overwhelming armies of France. Copet is a pleasantly situated village. Fishing seems to be the chief occupation of its inhabitants. Near it is the chateau, formerly the property of M. Necker, and now the residence of his daughter, Ma- dame de Stael, who will probably be as celebrated in future times for her writings, as her father for the ad- ministration of the French finances. I was to have accompanied two friends to a fete given here by Ma- dame de Stael, but unfortunately we did not return in time from our excursion to Chamouny ; and shortly after Madame de Stael went to Paris. This lady is said to have formerly remarked, that she should proba- bly find it very difficult to be suited with a husband, as her mother insisted she should marry a man of qua- lity ; her father wtihed for a man of talents, and she to filease herself The Baron de Stael Holstein was finally accepted, as no doubt uniting all the points re- quired. We soon reached Versoi, which belongs to France, and was during the disturbances which pre- vailed at Geneva in 1765, much encouraged by the then minister, the Duke de Choiseul, who expected that its advantageous situation, as well as its proximity to Geneva, would attract many of its inhabitants to set? 121 tie there ; and that, by their well-known industry, his newly founded town would speedily flourish. The duke was, however, disappointed in the expec- tations he had formed (as the present situation of Versoi affords ample testimony) ; for it was too much to sup- pose, that men born under a free government would, on account of trifling internal dissentions, abandon their country, and become the voluntary subjects of a despotic monarchy. Confidence is a plant of slow growth^ and an absolute government is not likely to encourage it. An enlightened monarch may frame an edict equally liberal as that of Nantes ; but the tyranny or bigotry of a succeeding sovereign may revoke what only pro- ceeded from sentiments to which he is a stranger. — - The Genevese have now nothing to apprehend from Versoi as a rival, but are anxious that it should be united to Switzerland, the French custom-house there beinp* an obstacle to their trade by land, as they are only separated Trom the rest of Switzerland by this narrow point which projects from the country of Gex. Gex was at one time subject to Savoy, and at another period to Geneva. It is six leagues in length, and about three and a half in width. On the road from Versoi to Ge- neva we had ourselves reason to perceive the inconve- niences of the French custom-house, as it is quite ab- surd to insist on opening packages which are not des- tined to remain above ten minutes on the French terri- tory. The country here is finely varied, and the dis- tant view of Geneva again drew from us expressions M 122 of admiration, after an excursion through a country where the traveller often sees more to delight and to interest him in one day than he sometimes meets with in travelling for a week through other Provinces. 123 CHAP. X. Having left Geneva so soon after my arrival there, I had not of course sufficient time to speak sufficiently of a city so peculiarly interesting on many accounts. The journal of a traveller is not however the place to look for long statements of the revolutions, wars, and sieges of the cities which he visits; but still there are very few tourists who have omitted to swell their pa- ges with details more properly the province of the historian, and, from the unconnected manner in which they are generally introduced, not calculated to give any very accurate idea of the history of the place. I shall not therefore attempt to mention the various revo- lutions which have at different times disturbed the city of Geneva ; and shall only remark, that it was formerly annexed to the German empire, and that its bishops, like those of Lausanne, having taken advantage of the precarious authority of some of the emperors, succeed- ed in uniting to the spiritual jurisdiction most of the temporal authority of the state, and lost both together at the introduction of the reformation in 1585. The citizens, to defend themselves from the powerful pre- tensions of the Dukes of Savoy, concluded, in 1584, a perpetual alliance with the cantons of Zurich and Berne (the most powerful of the reformed cantons) by which alliance this republic became a part of the *■ 1 O 4 i. -* Swiss confederacy, and continued to be so until forced to unite itself to France, by the revolutionary govern- ment oi that country. It has again recovered its indepen- dence ; and the general wish is that Geneva may be declared a canton of Switzerland (this has, since I left Geneva, actually taken place, and the event was cele- brated with the utmost enthusiasm by its inhabitants). Their present government is not absolutely arranged, and seems but little varied from that democratic form which anciently prevailed (the merits of which have given rise to much discussion) and by which all power is finally vested in the the general or sovereign council, composed of all the citizens of Geneva who have attained their majority, there being a few particu- lar exemptions. All citizens are equally eligible to the public employments of the state, of which, howe- ver, the emoluments are so scanty, as only to make them objects of honorable ambition. By the laws of Geneva, a father can never dispose of more than half his estate, according to his inclination; the other half must be equally divided amongst his children. Those citizens who do not discharge the debts of their father after his decease, are excluded from any public situations; as also, if they omit to pay debts which they have themselves contracted. There are still subsisting many sum/ituary laws, which ap- pear useful, to exclude the introduction of too great a degree of luxury, which is generally so fatal to the \ iberty of a people, m 123 There is a theatre at Geneva, which I have heard was first projected by M. d'Alembert, but the magistrates endeavour as much as possible to prevent the frequen- cy of theatrical entertainments ; and, during my stay at Geneva (between three and four weeks) I think the theatre was open but twice for plays, and once for a concert. The town-house is a large and ancient building, and devoid of regularity. It is chiefly worthy of mention, from the ascent to the upper appartments, being by an inclined plane, sufficiently spacious to admit a carriage to drive up to them. Here are the apartments of the Senate, the councils of government, officers of justice, 8cc. Here I left my passports and received, in return, a permission to reside in the city, which must be re- newed every fortnight. The passport is returned upon the final departure of its owner. I now found it easy to provide myself with a lodging (as, without the authority of the state, no citizen can receive strangers into his house) on reasonable terms, for three weeks. My apartment commanded a hand- some prospect of the lake from one of the windows. I, however, occasionally dined at the hotel where I had first lodged (the Balances d'Or). I here found some- times pleasant society at the Table d'Hote; The hour of dinner was about a quarter past one o'clock, and the table was plentifully supplied, much in the order I be- fore mentioned, in speaking of the French dinners.— I observed that excellent vegetable, the potatoe, was here in great estimation, at the tables both of the high* M 2 126 er and inferior classes ; and, except in Italy, I under-, stand its value is duly appreciated in the principal parts of Europe. I now proceed according to my pro- mise, to speak more of Geneva, having been for some time domesticated there. The city is regularly fortified ; but, according to the motlern system of warfare, it would not probably make any efficient resistance ; yet although its fortifications may not be sufficient to secure it during a siege, they are not entirely devoid of utility : they would prevent the city's being suddenly occupied by an enemy, and thus afford time for the conclusion of a regular capitu- lation. Situated as the city is, between France and and Sardinia, and divided from the rest of Switzerland, it must be granted, that the government acts wisely in preserving its fortifications. Indeed, their utility was fully exemplified during the eventful period of last spring, when the allied troops, after having for some days occupied the city, were suddenly called away, and the inhabitants were menaced by a force of 3,000 Frenchmen, who demanded admission. This was re- fused them, and happily, the return of the allies in a few days, - saved Geneva from the melanchoily effects which must have ensued from the irruption of the French, who were greatly exasperated that the city did not at first oppose the entrance of the allies. The ramparts form the principal promenade of the Gene- vese ; and from some of them (particularly from the Place St. Antoine, which commands the lake, and is well planted) the views are very striking over a highly 127 cultivated valley, enclosed by some of the most lofty mountains in Europe. Detachments of the allied for- ces remained a very considerable time at Geneva, and at one period the Republic had to defray a daily ex- pense of not less than 40,000 francs. But what seems to be most regretted by the Gene- vese, is the destruction by those troops, of several ave- nues of trees, which had for many years lined one of the roads near the city, and formed one of their favour- ite walks. The Austrians, in their impatience to ob- tain fuel, could not be persuaded to spaiie them, and the inhabitants now avoid a walk which they once de- lighted in. I have not, however, heard many complaints at the sums expended for the maintenance of the allied troops, as tiiey have relieved Geneva from the yoke of France, under which their trade (which alone had raised their city to such celebrity) was nearly annihi- lated. I obtained some information on this subject, trom a person of whom I inquired my way to the hamlet of the Petit Sacconnex, near Geneva, where is the best view of Mont Blanc. Seeing I was a stranger, he was very civil ; but he was delighted when he discovered of what country I was, and spoke of England with en- thusiasm, as it was to her perseverance that his coun- try, in common with most of Europe, was indebted for the late glorious change in the state of their affairs. He informed me, that before the union of Geneva to France, he had been in good business as a watch- 128 maker, (the great occupation of the Genevese) but, like numberless others, was thrown out of employment. Many emigrated, some worked as day-labourers, others were forced into the army, and he, being very old, maintained himself with difficulty by setting up a small school. I found my conductor an extremely well informed man, as indeed are most of the trades-people of Ge- neva. The higher circles are remarkable for that freedom, blended with politeness, which places society on its most natural basis, as I had frequent occasion to remark during my stay at Geneva. I must not omit to mention the pleasure I experienced from the fete de navigation (to which I was invited by the kindness of a gentleman, to whom I had been introduced) which is one of the most splendid at Geneva ; and the scene of the lake, covered with boats of various sizes, filled with elegant females (and I have seen few places that can boast of a greater proportion) prevented my reflec- tions on the more distant scene which its shores pre- sented, and which, under different circumstances, would not have passed unnoticed. After having spent some time on the water, the company repaired to the Hall of Navigation, near the village of Secheron, where a handsome entertainment was provided. The evening concluded with a brilliant display of fire-works, and the lake was again enlivened by the boats carrying back the company to the city. I observed amongst the company an English Admiral, who attended this fete in his uniform. The Genevese lamented that so hand- 129 some a dress should be disfigured by the small hat he wore, and it was indeed small compared with those of their officers. The peasants here wear larger hats than any I saw in France, probably to shade them from the sun ; but in any climate, I do not think an English labourer would feel at his ease with such a vast edifice on his head. The bonnets worn by the inhabitants of parts of Savoy and Vaud, are not very dissimilar in shape from some I have seen in Wales ; they are made of straw, and are commonly ornamented with black ribbon. I shall here insert an epigram composed in 16tflBF, by a Prince of Hesse, who, at his departure, presented the city with 10,000 crowns. Quisquis amat vitam, sobriam, castamque tueri, Perpetud esto ill! casta Geneva domus : Quisquis amat vitam banc bene vivere, vivere et illam, llli iterum fuerit casta Geneva domus. Illic invenies, quidquid conducit utriqus : Relligio hie sana est, aura, ager, atque lucus. Amongt the various objects which are pointed out as deserving the attention of a stranger, is the house in which the celebrated J. J. Rousseau was born, in the year 1712. The circumstance is recorded by an in- scription over the door. His father was a watchmaker, and his house was small and obscurely situated. Rousseau was perhaps the most eloquent and fasci- nating of all the sceptical writers of the last century ; and probably the only one amongst them who establish- 130 ed a system of his own, if indeed his eccentricities can be so called. His character exhibited a strange mix- ture of pride, which made him perpetually anxious to be of public notoriety, and of an unsociable temper which often made him retire in disgust with the world, and treat (without any rational cause, that has been assigned) those who were most his friends, as if he considered them to be his bitterest enemies. He was far more jealous of the reputation obtained by his con- temporaries, than delighted with the approbation he personally received. Considered as a philosopher, he was paradoxical ; as a moralist, dangerous and licen- tious ; as a parent, unnaturally abandoning his off- spring ; as a friend, suspicious and ungrateful. As pride was the ruling passion of Rousseau, so was vanity beyond dispute the grand characteristic of Voltaire, (the proximity of Fernay may excuse my here compa- ring him with Rousseau) and this passion induced him to pervert transcendent talents to the most pernicious and fatal purposes. The hostility of Voltaire to the Christian dispensa- tion has been compared to the enmity rather of a rival than of a philosopher. He is thought to have wished its overthrow, not so much because he entertained any solid objections to its sublime theories, or had real doubts as to the miracles by which it is attested ; as because his vanity led him to think, that if he once could persuade men to the abolition of Christianity, he might himself become the founder of a new system of moral indulgence. The Abbe Raynal, in 1791, already 131 repented of the philosophic principles, which he had so sedulously inculcated, and expressed his conviction, that the consequence of the theories then so finely fancied, would be a general pillage, for that their authors want- ed experience, to reduce their speculations to a prac- tical system. The Abbe was right in this last expec- tation, and from the French Revolution, so destructive in most respects, there has at least resulted this advan- tage ; it has furnished the most satisfactory comment upon the grand experiment of the philosophers, and proved most fully that it is religion alone that possesses authority to silence the clamours of interest, to control the passions, and to fetter the ambition of mankind.— The same year (1778) is memorable for the deaths both of Voltaire and Rousseau ; the first is represented as exhibiting on his death bed the most melancholy spectacle of horror and remorse that can be possibly conceived ; the latter is thought to have committed suicide at Ermenonville, where he found an asylum, after having been banished successively from many states. This opinion is founded chiefly on the author- ity of Madame de Stael : it is related, that he rose in the morning in perfect health, and returned after his usual walk ; that soon after, he desired his wife to open the window, that he might, as he expressed it, contem- plate nature for the last time, and that being presently taken ill, he refused to receive any assistance, and died in a few hours. Those who have seen both those celebrated charac- ters (who long attracted persons from all parts of Eu- 132 rope to this country) have remarked, that Voltaire at first sight was acknowledged to be a man of genius : but that Rousseau was only suspected of possessing superior abilities. I have perhaps said too much on this subject, into which I have been led insensibly, by reflecting on what I had read of these philosophers, and shall therefore conclude with inserting the remark of a Savoyard pea- sant, who, according to M. Lantier, being asked his opinion of them, answered, " i" think that Voltaire has clone a great deal of mischief in the age in which he lived; and that Rousseau will not do less to pos- terity" The college of Geneva and its library are generally pointed out to strangers as worthy of a visit ; for the Genevese are no less celebrated for their proficiency in literature, than for their commercial industry. The college consists of nine classes, and owes its founda- tion to the celebrated Calvin, who was born at Nyon, where his father was a cooper. He first arrived at Geneva in 1536, was exiled in 1538, and recalled finally in 1541 ; he became the legislator as well as the religious reformer of the state. He is still the great hero of the Genevese, who believe him to be in- nocent of the death of Michael Servet, which has in the general opinion cast such disgrace on his memory. He did not affect to deny the great perversity of his temper, which is indeed exhibited by many of his ac- tions, so forcibly as not to admit of concealment. His writings, in 44 volumes, containing 2,023 sermons, and 1 oS his portrait, are preserved in the college library, which contains about 50,000 volumes, besides 200 manu- scripts, some of which are of great value. This library was originally founded by Bonnival, prior of St. Vic- tor, and is open trom one till three o'clock every Tues- day. Two secretaries are then engaged, under the inspection of the librarian, in taking lists of the books which are borrowed or returned. The hydraulic ma- chine on the Rhone, which supplies the city with wa- ter, although it is less complicated than that at Marli, is not iess ingenious, and is certainly of greater utility. The wheel is twenty-four feet in diameter, and raises about 500 pints a minute at all seasons (being preser- ved from the effects of frost) to two reservoirs, one seventy, tae other 126 feet above the level of the river. The first supplies the fountains and houses in the low- er part of the town, and the second those in the more elevated situations. The water of the Rhone, although transparently clear, is hard and unpleasant to drink. In enumerating the public establishments of Gene- va, I must not omit to mention the Society for the Ad- vancement of the Arts, which was originally projected by M. Faizan, an eminent watch-maker ; its first meetings were held at M. de Saussure's house. This society is now so considerable as to be under the direc- tion of government, and its meetings are held in the town-hall, where subjects connected with agriculture and the useful arts are discussed, and prizes distribu- ted, as well to the school of drawing (which is on a most respectable footing) as to a//, who distinguish N 134 themselves, either by inventions of utility, or by noble or humane actions. Another excellent establishment here, is the Cham- bre de Bles, or magazine of corn ; this is a large and handsome building, and always contains an ample sup- ply of good wheat. The direction of this establishment is immediately in the government, and its managers are selected from the different councils. The benefits arising from abundant seasons, cover the expences oc- casioned by years of scarcity. The bakers being obli- ged to buy here whatever quantity of corn they may require, and at an uniform price, it follows that the price of bread always continues the same, and that price is fixed by the grand council. The managers of this store, to prevent the bakers from making bread of an inferior quality, have established a shop in each quar- ter of the city ; and the bakers, to ensure a ready sale, are obliged to make their bread of equal quality with that which could be procured at the shops of the mana- gers of this establishment. The churches of Geneva are not distinguished by any architectural beauties, if we except the portico of the cathedral, which is con- structed of rough marble, said to be copied after that of the Rotunda at Rome ; it is considered equal to that of St Genevieve at Paris, but I cannot subscribe to that opinion. The Calvinistic tenets (which are those of the state) are most generally adopted at Geneva ; but the Lu- therans, the Germans of the Confession of Augsburg, and the Roman Catholics, have each a church. The 135 ministers are appointed by the government, and care is taken that the Roman Catholic minister be subject to a Swiss Bishoprick. In the Calvinistic churches, the hours of divine service are nine in the morning an4 two in the afternoon. The service consists in the reading the commandments, a few prayers, a chapter in the Bible, and the sermon ; and concludes with a psalm or hymn, accompanied by the organ ; the whole service generally occupies an hour. The Sunday is principally distinguished by the sermon, the rest of the week being allotted for reading the Scriptures. — A stranger is much surprised at seeing many persons wear their hats during the sermon, a custom which in- dicates a want of respect to the place that cannot be excused, however inferior the compositions of a prea- cher may be to the rest of the service. There is one thing to be noticed here as worthy of imitation : no burials are allowed within the city. At Paris also, most of the burial places near the churches have been removed to the catacombs, a change which has tended greatly to purify the air of the city. There is a box at each door of the churches here, and as the congrega- tion retire after divine service, a person is stationed near it, to desire them to remember the poor. These collections must be liberal, as few places are so free from beggars as Geneva. 136 CHAP. XI. The Perte du Rhone, or the spot where the Rhone suddenly sinks into the ground, forms one of the ob- jects usually visited from Geneva, and I accepted a proposal to join a party in making an excursion thither. We were careful in providing a carriage, which was so constructed, as to allow us a view on both sides, as some only afford a prospect of half the country, the passengers all sitting on one side, and the cover being immoveable. We set out at an early hour, and arrived at Vanchy about noon, from whence we proceeded on foot to the spot where the vast waters of the Rhone, in approach- ing a ridge of rocks, with inconceivable rapidity, sink into the earth. The cavern is covered with foam, from the agitation of so great a body of water being forced into so small an aperture ; and the sight is at once magnificent and solemn. The emersion of the Rhone is not far distant from the place of its ingulphation, but presents a very different spectacle, as the river ascends so gradually as to be completely smooth, which is at- tributed to the depth of the caverns from which it issues. It seems probable that these caverns have some undiscovered outlet, as the Rhone, after its rise from them, is but inconsiderable, compared with what it is before its disappearance. Not far distant is the Pont de Beliegarde, over t£c little river Valserine, which runs through a deep dell into the Rhone. The scene is well deserving of atten- tion. In the vicinity of Geneva are several hop gat- dens, which seem very flourishing ; but whether it is that the inhabitants do not understand the art of brew- ing as well as in England, or that there is any differ- ence in the plant, I do not know ; but no one, who ha^ been accustomed to good malt liquor, could be persua- ded to relish theirs. The elevation of Geneva (187 toises above the Me- diterranean) together with the proximity of the Alps, and of the mountains of Jura, cause winters to be long, and often severe. The summers are often extremely hot, but the air is refreshed by the gales from the mountains, which sometimes occasion very sudden changes in the atmosphere. The thermometer of Reaumur has been known to rise 25 degrees above freezing, but I have never my- self observed it above 18 or 20 during my stay. It is said, that very severe cold has brought it to 14 degrees below freezing, and then the lake, and even the rapid current of the Rhone, have been frozen. Often, during the summer months, the lake is ruffled by the Bise, or regular north-east wind ; but the east and west winds occasion the most destructive tempests. The climate of Switzerland is in general much colder than in the countries by which it is surrounded Its numerous lakes, mostly very elevated, add greatly to the freshness of th,e air, and the frequent rains from i3a the Alps bring with them the temperature of those mountains. But, although the climate is so variable, being often changed in a few hours, from the great heat which the reflection of the sun occasions in the valleys, to the cold rains which proceed from the sur- rounding mountains, yet these sudden transitions do not appear to have an ill effect on the health of the inhabitants. On the contrary, the celebrated physician Mailer attributes the salubrity of the air of Switzer- land to the currents from the Alps, which preserve it continually pure, and prevent its stagnation in the valleys. The soil of Switzerland is, in general, stony and un- fertile, but the peasants spare no pains to render it productive. I have had more than once before occa- sion to express my astonishment at the sight of moun- tains divided into terraces, and cultivated to their very summits. I have been informed by a gentleman, who has devoted much of his attention to agricultural pur- suits, that the general return of grain in Switzerland is about five times the quantity sown, and that Switzer- land does not produce much above a tenth part of the corn necessary for the subsistence of its population, which he calculates at 130 to the square mile, or nearly two millions ; but if the parts which it is impossible can ever be cultivated, were left out of the calculation, the average population to the square mile would be of course greatly increased ; as the present scheme in- cludes the whole superfices of the country. 139 The proportion which some other countries b ear to Switzerland, in respect to the population subsisting on each square mile, is as follows, viz. China, the most populous country in the world, of the same extent, - - - - - 260 Holland, which has a greater population than any country of its limited extent - 275 France, as in 1792 174 United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland - 145 Russia in Europe ------- 30 Iceland --------- l I have been assured that in one part of the Canton of Appenzell,the population amounts to 562 per square mile. It is one of the most secluded parts of Switzer- land, and is famous for the music called the Ranz des Suisses. Tne Alps greatly increase the surface of Switzerland when compared with less mountainous countries, and it therefore can support vast flocks in situations where agriculture would be impracticable. I have been frequently surprised to see cattle in places whither they must have been carried by the inhabitants. The number of the cattle, in many of the Swiss Can- tons, greatly exceeds that of the inhabitants. Haller has observed that Switzerland presents, as it , were, three distinct regions ; that on tye tops of the mountains are found the plants indigenous in Lapland ; lower down, are found those of the Cape of Good Hope ; and the valleys abound with plants peculiar to Switzer- land, besides others which are found in the same lati- 140 tude* I observed in a former chapter, that the great occupation of the inhabitants of Geneva consists in the manufacture of watches, clocks, 8c c. and having a de- sire to see some specimens of their workmanship, I accompanied a friend, who had purchased a musical snuff box, to the workshop of its fabricator, who, al- though he was of the first celebrity in Geneva, had no warehouse in a more accessible situation than his work- shop on the fifth story. I afterwards found that most of the watchmakers had their workshops at the tops of the houses, which here, as in Edinburgh, are mostly occupied by several families, who have a common stair- case to their apartments. I was much pleased with the display of ingenuity in this warehouse, and found that many of the articles were intended to be sent to Paris, to Asia, Sec. Geneva itself could not, of course, supply purchasers for such a profusion of expensive mechanism. The taste of many of the articles, is by no means such as would ensure them a ready sale in London. There are at Geneva many pleasant circles or socie- ties, who have a common apartment to meet in within the city, where the papers are taken in ; and often a garden in the neighbourhood for their recreation. I was introduced to one of these circles, and went to their garden, which was large and well shaded with walnut trees. About the centre was a large pleasure house, furnished with billiard, chess, and backgammon tables. Some of the party were engaged at bowls ; their game differs from ours in many respects, as here 141 they prefer a gravel walk or uneven surface, and they throw the bowl a considerable height into the air, instead of letting it glide gently along. I became ac- quainted with a French gentleman, much advanced in years, who had resided here chiefly since the French Revolution. He told me his head had been twice laid on the block for execution, and that the whole of his family had perished during the troubles in France : he therefore did not wish to return into his country, which would only recal melancholy recollections ; but he rejoiced much to see the royal family again seated on the throne. It is to be feared, that there are in many- parts of Europe, several individuals, in equally unfor- tunate circumstances, after the dreadful carnage occa- sioned by the continued succession of wars, with which it has been ravaged. I must not take my leave of Ge- neva without mentioning, that there are few places which afford more of the requisites to a pleasant resi- dence. The walks and rides in its vicinity are very numerous, and abound with interesting prospects. — T\ie view of the city from the village of Coligny, on the Savoy side of the lake, is highly impressive. The junction of the rivers Arve and Rhone forms another very fine scene. The waters of the Rhone are at least three times greater than those of the Arve, and are of a transparent blue colour, whilst those of the Arve are of a milky hue, something like the appearance of the Rhone when it first enters the lake of Geneva, where it leaves the tint it acquired from the mountain snows and torrents, The Rhone seems for a conside- 142 rable distance to retire from any amalgamation with the Arve, but at length assumes a less transparent aspect. About half a league from Geneva is the town of Carrouge, which at one period was in some degree its rival in trade, but is at present by no means in a flou- rishing state. Its future destiny remains to be decided along with those of more important states, at the ap- proaching Congress of Vienna. The general opinion seems to be that the Carrougians wish to be reunited to France ; but the King of Sardinia has invited them to submit to his authority. I walked one morning to St. Julian, about two leagues from Geneva ; it is pleasantly situated in that part of Savoy which is ceded to France, and which is in fact the most essential part of the country, as it is said this division materially interrupts the communi- cation between those parts which remain with the King of Sardinia. The object in visiting St. Julian, was principally to see the plain, where after a sharp con- test, the Austrians were defeated by little more than half their number of French troops, but having received reinforcements, renewed the action and were victo- rious. It must be confessed, that the Austrian troops are much inferior to the French ; and the latter ha- ving so frequently defeated them, feel quite indignant against the Austrians for the part taken by their govern- ment in the invasion of France, and the restoration of the Bourbons. 143 Most of the French officers I have met with indulge the hope, that some differences at the Congress may occasion a fresh war with Austria. The French in general join the officers in looking forward to the re- covery of what they contend are their natural limits — the Rnine and Belgium ; — and after so many years of war, are dissatisfied at having no conquests to boast of. It cannot be however expected that the great bias given to the French in favour of war, by their late ruler, should speedily subside ; but the restless and impatient spirit which at present prevails in France, and which would engage immediately in a fresh war, must be in some degree restrained by the exhausted state of their finances ; and as it is, many of the taxes are much complained of. On my return to Geneva, I met the Ex-Empress, Maria Louisa, accompanied by a numerous suite, on her way from the baths of Aix, where she had been for several weeks, to the Hotel de Secheron, near Ge- neva. She bore some resemblance to the portraits I had seen of her in London ; and although she is not particularly beautiful, yet has a lively and interesting appearance. Her arrival did not appear to make much sensation at Geneva ; she excited by no means so much interest there as Lord Castlereagh, who passed through on his road to Vienna ; and who well merits the con- gratulations he every where receives, for the part he has had in the late glorious events. 144 L CHAP. XII. I remained at Geneva longer than I had at first in- tended, and at last quitted it with regret. I shall ever recollect the time I spent there with pleasure ; but the period allotted for my tour would not permit me to remain any longer stationary ; and I therefore set off for the mountains of Jura, celebrated for the exten- sive and varied prospects which they afford of the Alps, Sec. I was much pleased with the scenery of the little lake and valley of Joux, shut out by moun- tains from the rest of the Canton of Vaud. At Copo- nex I met two gentlemen, who were indebted to their horse for having escaped being robbed the evening before. They were travelling slowly in an open car- riage, when suddenly they were ordered to stop by several men of French appearance, who were thought to be disbanded soldiers. This adventure made a great noise in a neighbourhood, where highway robbe- ry is extremely unusual. We breakfasted at a neat inn in the village of Lasera, and afterwards went to see the chief curiosity of the place, the separation of the ri- vulet into two branches, one of which falls into the lake of Neufchatel, and eventually through the rivers Aar and Rhine into the German Ocean ; the other runs in- to the lake of Geneva, and by means of the Rhone at length reaches the Mediterranean. This singularity 145 proves the facility with which the lakes of Neufchatel might be made to communicate with each other. Ac- cordingly, a canal has long since been commenced ; but its projectors have made little progress in their undertaking. The little town of Orbe, is nearly sur- rounded by a river of the same name ; it bears evident marks of antiquity, and from its position, must have been in former times a place of considerable strength. The ancient kings of Burgundy have a residence here. This part of the country is highly varied, and pre- sents a most picturesque appearance. Land in the Pays de Vaud, I found, generally sells for about twenty-five years purchase ; and 3^ or 4 per cent, is thought sufficient interest for money invested in it. Travelling and living are much dearer in this country, than in France, as although the inhabitants have few superfluities, yet they have to fetch them from a distance, Switzerland not affording a sufficient supply of food for the support of its inhabitants. Yverdun was our next stage ; it is after Lausanne and Vevay the most considerable town in the canton. It is situated close to the lake of Neufchatel, and is surrounded by water. It consists of three parallel streets, terminating in a square, in which are the church and town-house, both neat structures. The population is about 3000. The castle is flanked by numerous turrets, and has a venerable appearance.-— The promenade presents a sort of sea view, as the ex- tremity of the lake (which is about nine leagues in o 146 length, by two in breadth) is hid from the eye by the convexity of its waters, and the view is terminated by the sky. At a little distance from the town, is a mineral spring, with a large building containing baths and a pump-room. I found the waters were strongly impregnated with sulphur. Here is a celebrated school, containing about 250 boys; the annual expense for each boarder is not less than fifty louis. We proceeded in the diligence to Neufchatel, through the towns of Granson, St. Aubit, and Boudri. The banks of the lake present a continued succession of vineyards, which afford the best red wine in Swit- zerland. The conductor of our voiture amused us a good deal by his eccentricity. He seemed thoroughly happy and contented ; and when an old gentleman of the party wished for a bag of crowns that were put into the carriage, to be conveyed to Berne, the conductor declared, he was not like JVaJioleon, and wished for nothing he had not. We found that the establishment of a game license had occasioned some discontent in this country. The quantity of game is said to have greatly diminished. One gentleman told me, they sometimes hunted wild boars on the mountains near France. The roads here have been much shortened by a new line of communication which has been lately opened, and the bridge at Serrier of a single arch over a deep valley (wnicii formerly obliged travellers to make a considerable circuit) has a very handsome as >\ r ell as useful effect. The town of Neufchatel contains ur between four and five thousand inhabitants ; it is partly built on a hill, where stand the church and castle, and partly on a plain near the lake, on the borders of which are handsome public walks and further improve- ments are carrying on. The elegant appearance of many of the private houses proves the wealth of their owners. Neufchatel is without fortifications, but is in eene- ral well built; it is said to present a perspective, resembling, in miniature, the distant view of Naples. The lake is not deep, but seldom freezes, although it is thirty one toises more elevated than that of Geneva. The principalities of Neufchatel and ValHngen are about twelve leagues long, by eight at the broadest part ; the soil is far from fertile, but the industry of the inhabitants renders it astonishingly productive. Any person having a certificate of his general good conduct may settle here, and enjoy every essential pri- vilege of the native subjects. This is perhaps the only country in Europe exemjit from taxes j for the pay- ment of a few sous annually from every householder cannot be considered as a tax. This circumstance lessens our astonishment at the commercial activity which prevails in this little state, the population of which exceeds 40,000. The villages of Chaux de Fond and Locle, with their districts, contain about 600 inhabitants, and furnish annually 40,000 watches in gold and silver, besides clocks. There are also nu- merous engravers and enamellers. The country is 148 celebrated for its wild beauty; and our excursion, which occupied a day, was pleasant. The Protestant is the established religion of the state, with the exception of the little town of Landeron, where the Roman Catholic religion is maintained. It is recorded, that the inhabitants, having assembled to deliberate, which of the two forms of worship should be acknowledged, the numbers were equally divided. It being however discovered, that a shepherd was absent, he was sent for, and having given his vote, that the Roman Catholic religion should be continued, it was decided acccordingly. The town of Neufchatel is much indebted to one of its citizens, David Rhi, who expended three or four millions of livres in works of public utility. Another individual built the town-house, which is a handsome edifice of the Corinthian order. The little brook called the Serrieres, which does not run above the length of two gun-shots before it falls into the lake, turns a great number of mills of vari- ous kinds. Having been much struck with the spirit of industry and activity which distinguishes the appearance of this little state, I felt anxious to inquire concerning the government, and a gentleman of this town, to whom I was introduced when at Geneva, was kind enough to give me ample information on the subject. As I say but little respecting the history of large states, perhaps I may he excused for the following details, which I think possess some interest. 149 The state of Neufchatcl is an independent sove- reignty, allied with Switzerland ; which alliance se- cures its independence, and every prince on succeed- ing to the sovereignty, is obliged to ratify it. The ac- tual government is a mixture of aristocracy and democracy. The sovereignty which is almost a name, is inalienable and indivisible, and cannot be sold or given to a younger branch of the reigning family, without the consent of the people — it is hereditary, and a female is capable of inheriting it. The revenues of the sovereign arise from quit-rents, fines, tithes, and the exclusive right of trout fishing in the autumn; he can, on no pretext whatever, exact any thing addi- tional from the state, and the total of his revenue does not exceed 45,000 francs. The prince has the dispo- sal of all civil and military employments, not reserved particularly for popular election; he is represented by a governor, who presides at the general meetings of the estates of the principality, but has no vote unless the numbers are equally divided. In the event of a contest relative to the succession of the principality, the Estates General are alone competent to decide between the different claimants ; and the Canton of Berne has always decided any differences that may have arisen between the prince and the people respec- ting their particular rights. The last time when the estates were called upon to decide between a number of claimants for the sovereignty, was in 1707, on the death of the Dutchess of Nemours without issue, — ■ 150 Most of the claimants came in person to Neufchatei, or sent ambassadors to support t:ieir pretentions. — Amongst them were the King of Prussia, Margrave of Baden Dourlach, the Prince of Nassau, the Prince of Conde, the Marquis of d'Algers, the Count of Mont- beliard, Sec. &c. In bestowing the sovereignty on the King of Prussia, care was taken that he should confirm all the doubtful privileges of the people ; for it is a fundamental maxim of this little state, " that the sove- reignty resides not in the person of the firince, but in the state." The Neufchatelois are permitted to serve in the armies of any power, not at war with the Prince of Neufchatei, as such, and accordingly it has happened that they have often fought against the Prussians in the wars of Frederick the Great. By the treaty of Tilsit, 1806, this state was severed from Prussia, and given by Buonaparte to Marshal Berthier; but the recent events have restored it to the King of Prussia, and the inhabitants seem to bear the greatest attach- ment to his Majesty. I saw, in two places, the trium- phal arches under which he passed in his late visit to Neufchatei. It appears probable that this will be acknowledged as a canton by the Swiss Diet, but that the nominal sovereignty of the King of Prussia will be preserved. The chief advantage his Majesty derives from this country is the supply of a great number of recruits to his army. I saw a body of 1,400 soldiers, of excellent appearance, set out on their march for Prussia. 151 At the village of St. Blaise we observed, under the sign oi one oi tiie inns, the sentiment, " Honor ez le Roi ; soigncz V agriculture." We next proceeded to visit the celebrated lake of Bienne, which is about nine English miles by four. The isle of St. Pierre, so much praised by Rousseau, is situated near the centre of the lake, about a league from Cerlier, where we embarked for it. It is about half a league in cir- cumference. The ancient convent is inhabited by a farmer, and the bed of the philosophic Rousseau is now at the command of any of his admirers who may wish to repose in it. There is also a large building, which is in summer the scene of much festivity, and which commands an extensive and interesting prospect. One side of this isiand rises boldly from the lake to a great height ; the other is on a level with its waters. It contains many vineyards, and several large chesnut trees. The town of Bienne, until its union to France in 1799, presented the singularity of a Protestant state being nominally subject to a Roman Catholic prelate (the Bishop of Basle.) Its liberties were guaranteed by the Swiss Diet, where it sent a representative, a privilege the bishop did not possess. Its future go- vernment is not yet determined on. The country about Nydau more resembles Holland and Switzer- land, being marshy, or drained by canals. Many Swiss writers are of opinion, that formerly the lakes of Neuf- chatel, Morat and Bienne were united ; and the ap- 152 pearance of the country renders the supposition not improbable. The Pont de Thiel divides the territories of Rome and Neufchatel ; and it is also the limit of the French language, none of the peasants beyond the bridge being able to answer any questions but in German. However, at all the chief inns, in both Switzerland and Germany, some of the waiters speak French. It is difficult to suppose a more sudden change than pre- sents itself to the traveller on his passing this bridge. The houses, dress, and appearance of the inhabitants, all announce that he is arrived in a country differing entirely from France, Savoy, and the Paus de Vaud. The enormous black crape head-dresses of the wo- men have a most singular effect, as well as their long hair, which reaches halfway down their backs, plaited into several divisions. It is said, that in some districts the females after marriage, roll it round their heads* The costume of the men much resembles that of our sailors. Cotton or woollen caps are more worn than hats, as was the custom in England until about the time of Henry the Eighth. We sent our baggage by the coach to Berne, and walked three leagues to breakfast at Anet, in German £is, a large village pleasantly situated. We observed that the direction posts had a translation into French of the German names, Sec. ; a precaution very useful on the frontiers of nations speaking two different lan- guages. We found our inn extremely neat, as indeed the inns generally are throughout Switzerland ; and 153 that is one great advantage to the traveller which it possesses over France, where it is seldom that good accommodations can be procured at a country inn. If the inns are more Expensive than in France, the com- fort is greater also. The French talk much of the rapacity of the Swiss, and have a common saying, " Point d' argent fioint de Suisse ;" but it would be un- reasonable to expect that the Swiss should give their services gratuitously to strangers ; and, considering how much their country is frequented by strangers, the guides, servants, &c. he. pannot be accused of any particularly great extortion. Still, those who expect to find Switzerland a cheap country will be disappoint- ed, as many of their inns (particularly at Zurich) are more expensive than some in England. There can be, however, no country more agreeable to travel in than this, as the scene is continually varying, and pre- sents a succession of lofty mountains, forests, cultiva- ted grounds, lakes, rivers, and cascades, which will fully occupy the attention and excite the admiration of the tourist. The people are extremely civil, and those who understand German have assured me that they are also well informed. Although Anet is at such a short distance from the frontiers of Neufchatel, we found there were but two persons there who could speak French. One of them was our landlord who provided us with a guide to con- duct us to Mount lulemont, or Suslemont (which was the object we wished to see particularlyi from previ- ous report) as he could speak only German, our inten- 154 tions were explained to him by the landlord, and we managed, by signs, to understand enough for our pur- pose. Many of the German and English words have a strong resemblance ; and a stranger in Germany is more likely to be understood by trying English than French, where neither are spoken. We at length ar- rived on the mountain, and were much pleased with the extensive prospect from it, which resembles a vast chart or map ; the country surrounding us for many leagues in all directions, being flat, although the view was terminated by distant mountains. From hence we saw, at the same time, the three lakes of Neufcha- tel, Bienne, and Morat, which had a beautiful effect. A traveller should not fail to visit this place. We continued our walk in the afternoon to Arberg, three and a half leagues further, through a plain which pre- sented one of the most cheerful and interesting scenes I had seen. It was quite covered with peasants, enga- ged in ploughing out potatoes, and in gathering the leaves of the tobacco plant, of which there was a vast quantity. We were constantly occupied in returning their salutations, as they seldom fail to speak to pas- sengers. The country was mostly unenclosed. I here observed the first extensive beech woods I had yet seen on the Continent, which are occasionally mixed with fir, the most common timber in Switzerland. We arrived, after sunset, at Arberg, where we found good accommodation^ after the fatigues of the day. It takes its name from the river Aar, by which it is surrounded. At each end of the town is a wooden bridge covered^ 155 to preserve the timber from the weather. The town is a great thorough-fare between Berne, Neufchatel, and the Pays de Vaud ; and we observed, in the mar- ket place, several waggons stationed until morning. 156 CHAP. XIII. We proceeded next day to Morat. Its lake is about two leagues in length by three quarters of a league in breadth, and is said to be the only lake in Switzerland where that voracious fish, the silurus, is found. There are many vineyards in this vicinity, but the wine is very indifferent. It is, however, said to produce the best KiJ'schivasser^ or cherry brandy, in Switzerland. Mo- rat is celebrated in history for the memorable victory obtained under its wails, by the Swiss, over the formi- dable army of the last Duke of Burgundy in 1476. The bones of the Burgundians were piled up by way of monument on the field of battle. The triumph of the Swiss over their invaders was recorded by many inscriptions, of which the following is admired for its simplicity. D. O. M. Caroli incliti et fortissimi Burg-undiae ducis exercitus Muratum obsidiens, ab Helvetiis cxsus, hoc sui Monumentum reliquit, 1476. This trophy was destroyed by the French in 1798 ; as they, perhaps, feared that this memorial of the suc- cess of the Swiss, in contending for their liberty, should incite them again to rise against the descendants of those whom they had formerly defeated j and their 157 vanity was probably hurt by the existence of a record, disadvantageous to their countrymen. We dined at the neat little village of Seedorf, and proceeded in the evening in an open carriage to Berne. Part of the road is very hilly, and at one time we had an interesting prospect of the island of St. Pierre, and the end of the lake of Neufchatel, at about five or six leagues distance. About half a league from Berne we passed the Aar (which is here a broad and rapid stream) by a long bridge of wood, covered according to the general custom in Switzerland. The city of Berne presents a beautiful cou/i d'&il, and is one of the few places I have seen, where the interior does not greatly diminish the impression, oc- casioned by the distant prospect. The road was lined by lofty trees, and presented a very cheerful scene. Berne is deservedly considered as one of the hand- somest cities in Europe ; it stands on a hill surrounded, on two sides by the beautiful stream of the Aar ; it is surrounded by higher grounds richly cultivated, and interspersed with woods, whilst the view is terminated by the snowy summits of the Alps. The chief street is half a league in length. The houses, which are in general uniform, are built of free- stone upon piazzas, and have a stately appearance, and there are several towers, which add to the general effect. In the middle of the street, runs a rapid stream, and there is sufficient space for two carriages to pass at each side of it. Fountains are also placed at regu- lar distances. The piazzas are flagged and kept ex- 158 tremely neat ; but, I should think, that in this climate they must make the houses cold in winter. This was the first place since my departure from London, where I found a flagged way for the convenience of pedes- trians. Berne is not a city of very remote antiquity, having been founded in the year 1 191. It is 1650 feet above the level of the sea. The fortifications are kept in tolerable order, but from the height of most of the sur- rounding hills, above the city, cannot be considered as of much utility. In the trenches are kept several very large stags, and also several bears; there being an annual rent of 1 200 livres for their support. This ani- mal is thus favoured, as being the armorial bearing of the city (to which it gives name) and these arms are every where to be seen, there being few barns without them. There are many handsome churches in Berne : the tower of the cathedral is very fine, and it contains many windows of stained glass. The public library is well worth visiting \ as is also the botanic garden, which is on a most extensive scale ; in it is placed the tomb of the celebrated Haller. I was much struck by the great number of chemists' shops in Berne. The bakers' shops also are very numerous, and the bread is inferior to none in Europe. A stranger is surprised to see the convicts chained to the carts, which are constantly in use to keep the streets clean. I confess the sight displeased me, and this system would not be tolerated in England, where I think, ihere wa3 an attempt to introduce it during the !59 reign of Edward the Sixth. The objects that most pleased me, at Berne, were the public walks, which are unequalled by any I have ever seen, in respect to their number, extent, and the neatness with which they are kept. The views from some of these walks are quite magnificent ; one, in particular, on an emi- nence beyond the city, which follows the course of the Aar for a long distance, commands a view which can never be forgotten by those who have seen it. The city is a striking object at a distance, from the number of its spires ; but although, from the spaciousness of its streets, it covers a good deal of ground, yet it is by no means populous, the inhabitants being only 1 1,500, but there are no mendicants. The public roads, in the Canton of Berne, are kept in excellent order, and every thing indicates the activity of the administration. The government is an aristocracy, and I was inform- ed the chief power of the state is vested in about twenty-four of the principal families. There are, doubtless, in general, many strong objections against this form of government, but the comfort, opulence, and appearance of content, which is remarked in the Bernese is such, that it is impossible to suppose they are not well governed ; the least observant traveller may soon perceive, by the appearance of a people, whether they are subject to a free or to a despotic government. I cannot, however, subscribe to Pope's opinion, * f That whichr is best administer'd is best." 16* The form is still in my judgment the first requisite ; nor can I agree that the goodness consists in the mere administration. I visited the agricultural establish- ment of M. de Fellenberg, at Hofwyl, two leagues from Berne, where may be learnt the principles of rural economy, and where annual fetes are given for the encouragement of farming ; and I also made an excursion to Hindelbanck, three leagues distant, where is a much admired monument, erected from a design ©f M. Nahl ; it represents his wife, who died in child- bed, breaking from her tomb with her child in her arms. The Canton of Berne, before the separation from it of the Cantons of Vaud and Argovia, formed about a third of Switzerland; its population is now about 300,000. The country is fruitful, but like the rest of Switzerland does not afford a sufficient supply ©£ corn for its inhabitants. Its fruit and vegetables are excellent. Its mountains feed vast herds of cattle, and there is abundance of game. Its exports are prin- cipally horses, cottons, watches, and kirschwasser, (or spirit extracted from the cherry) there are manufacto- ries of silks, and woollen stuffs, and its gunpowder is in much estimation throughout Europe. The salt comes mostly from France, but does not cost above five sols the pound. Groceries are still dear, but are much reduced since the downfall of the continental system. This Canton first entered into the Swiss Con- federation, in 1353. I made some enquiries respecting the clergy, from a most respectable minister of my ac- quaintance, who informed me, that the senate appoint 161 to all ecclesiastical benefices — that the clergy are di- vided into synods, which assemble separately every year under the presidency of a Dean, to examine into the conduct of each pastor, and to deliberate in the presence of the Bailiff of the District, concerning eccle- siastical affairs. The criminal code is weil arranged, and justice is administered with a promptitude that merits the highest praise, since legal delay often proves worse than injustice. I was doubtful in what direction I should next pro- ceed, when I was induced, as the season was advanced, to give up the idea of visiting Oberland, and to accom- pany a gentleman going to Lucerne; if the country^ was less romantic than that which I lost the opportu- nity of seeing, I was with a companion who would have rendered an excursion in any country entertain- ing. We left Berne in an open carriage, and took the road to Worb, where we visited a saw-mill, and were much pleased with that useful invention. There are near the village several of the most extensive bleach- greens in Switzerland. At Luzelfliih we passed the river Fmmen, and soon after stopped some time whilst our horses rested. I have never been in a country where horses are taken better care of; they are always in excellent condition, and after mounting any conside- rable hill, the driver does not fail to give them some slices of bread. As we proceeded, we were struck with the profu- sion of autumnal crocuses, with which the fields were enlivened, and stopped to sieep at the inconsiderable j>.2 3 62 village of Sumiswald, where the inn, like the rest of the houses, was entirely built of wood. We were shewn into an apartment where several peasants were at supper, and on the table lay a newspaper, which (although its date was not very recent) seemed to in- terest them extremely. Several more peasants having come in, we were, as strangers, conducted into a more private room, but it was so small, as to give us the idea that we were in a box. Our hostess was not long in preparing supper, and as it was extremely frugal, she produced for us a bottle of Neufchatel wine, of much better quality tnan one could have expected to meet with in so retired a situation. We set out at an early hour next morning, and, after passing through a vast forest of fir, arrived to breakfast at Zeli, in the can- ton of Lucerne, where the number of chapels by the road-side announced that the Roman Catholic was the established religion. The valley beyond Zell is exten- sive and well watered. The peasants display much ingenuity in irrigating their meadows. The orchards are numerous, and, as well as the meadows, are re- freshed by ductile ttr earns. In the centre of the valley- rises a lofty eminence, on the summit of which are the remains of the castle of Hapstalla, which, half conceal- ed by a mass of wood, forms a conspicuous object amidst the cultivation of the surrounding scenery. The small towns of Huttweil and Willisau present nothing worthy of remark ; but Sursee is a neat town, and the lake oi Sempach adds great; y to the cheerful appear- ance of the country, which it waters to a considerable 163 extent. The town of Sempach is noted in history for the defeat of Leopold, Duke of Austria, in 1386, by the forces of the Swiss confederation. The Duke, together with his chief nobility, perished in the en- gagement, which is further memorable by the heroism of Arnold Winkdricd. The approach to Lucerne along the river- Reuss is singularly beautiful, the banks are steep and well wooded, and the distant appearance of the city, from the number of its turrets and spires, is highly impressive. Its situation is certainly superior to that of any city in Switzerland (Berne perhaps ex- cepted). The mountains which surround that part of the lake seen from the town, immediately reminded me of the magnificent scenery of Kiilarney. The beauty of its situation, and the imposing aspect which Lu- cerne presents at a distance, renders the gloominess of its interior the more striking ; and I do not know, whether coming from Berne, where all is activity, gave me the impression, but I think I never was in a more melancholy and deserted town of the same mag- nitude. The population is only 4,000 ; but, to judge from its extent, it might contain at least three times that number. It is difficult to account exactly for the causes of this inactivity, but I should be inclined to think some blame attaches to its government, as here are no traces of that beneficial superintendence which is so percep- tible at Berne. This city cannot even boast of a pub- lic library. There are at Lucerne several curious wooden bridges, to join the different parts of the town separated by the river and the lake. They are from 164 5 to 600 feet in length, and one of them contains a vast number of paintings from scriptural subjects, and also from the Swiss history. There are several handsome buildings at Lucerne, but many towns that cannot boast of such a number, much exceed it in general appearance. We observed a great quantity of fruit for sale, and good peaches for one sol each. The celebrated plan, or rather model, of this and the three surrounding cantons, by General Pfiffer, is to be seen here on pay- ment of thirty sols ; it is well worthy of a visit, and the General is said to have refused ten thousand pounds for it. Buonaparte is said to have wished to possess it. The lake of Lucerne, called also the lake of the Four Cantons, or the Waldstralltr See, is one of the most picturesque pieces of water in Switzerland, and by its numerous windings, as well as by the rivers which fall into it, affords facilities for commerce, which are as- tonishingly neglected. Mont Piiate rises majestically from the lake. It is, perhaps, one of the highest mountains in Switzerland, If measured from its base, and not from the level of the sea. Its elevation from the level of the lake is, according to the measurement of General Pfiffer, not less than 6,000 feet. Its name was, it is thought, given it by the Romans, from the accumulation of snow upon its summit. Mount Rigi, so generally visited by travellers, pre- sents another distinguished feature in this romantic 165 country. The ascent to this mountain having bees witnin a few clays rendered extremely difficult by a fall of snow, we were advised not to attempt it, and I the more readily acquiesced, having found the ascent to Montanvert difficult, although unobstructed with snow. I therefore set out to visit two classic spots in the his- tory of Switzerland, which distinguish the banks of this lake ; first, the Griitli (the Runnimede of Swit- zerland) a field now covered with fruit trees, where the neighbouring cantons on the 12th of November, 1307, first took the engagement to found the liberty of their country. They carried their plan into execution on the 1st of January, 1308, by forcing their tyrannical governors to quit a country thenceforward destined to be free. The second place is about a league and a half distant, it is the Rock of Aschen-berg, 5240 feet above the level of the lake (which is here 800 feet deep) on a part of which, called Tell Platte, that patriot killed the tyrant Gessler ; here is a small chapel. I also visited the little town of Gersau (which was, by the French, united to the canton of Schweitz), remark- able as being the smallest republic existing in Europe, as it contains only one hundred square toises, and from 900 to 1000 inhabitants, who subsist chiefly by agri- culture ; there is, besides, a small manufactory of cot- ton. Their metropolis is a neat village, where only, perhaps, a pure democracy subsisted without anarchy and dissentions. The canton of Schweitz, which, at present, give& name generally to the whole confederation of cantons, 166 is said to have been first inhabited by some persons forced to quit Sweden by religious differences. The union of this canton to those of Uri and Unterwald, first suggested that more extended confederacy so es- sential to the existence of these diminutive states. Here the Roman Catholic is the only religion tole- rated, but intolerance in Switzerland is not peculiar to the Roman Catholic cantons, as in some, Calvinism only is permitted. At Brunnen I met some persons going on a pilgrimage to the shrine of Notre Dame des Ermites, at Einsiedlen, one of whom was a French- man, decorated with the Lys. It would be well for the Bourbons if all their subjects were possessed of but a small part of the loyalty which this gentleman expressed for them. Brunnen is a large and handsome town, situated on the lake ; it was here that the can* tons of Schweitz, Uri, and Unterwald, concluded their perpetual alliance. Altorf is the capital of the canton of Uri, it contains many handsome houses, and here is the statue of William Tell, in the place where he was condemned to shoot the arrow at his son. The cattle in this canton, as well as in Schweitz, are large and handsome. I was told that many of their favourite cows hid silver bells fastened round their necks. The horses are also provided with bells of a large size, the noise of which I thought extremely unpleasant, al- though often obliged to listen to it for many hours together. Stantz is the chief town of Unterwald, but is only remarkable for its being prettily situated. In the three original cantons* every citizen on attaining 167 the age of sixteen, has the right of suffrage in the General Assemblies. On my return to Lucerne from this excursion, it appeared more gloomy than ever> and I determined on quitting it next morning for Zug. The Pope's nuncio resides in this town, as being. the capital of the chief Roman Catholic canton, and i ob- served sentinels at his door, although there were none at the gates of the city. Lucerne was, under the French system, the seat of the general government of Switzerland, now removed to Zurich. The canton of Lucerne is, in general, well cultivated, and contains not less than 100,000 inhabitants. Between Lucerne and Zug, I observed a number of peasants practising with the ancient weapons of William Tell, which they ap- peared to use with great dexterity. The badness of the road retarded considerably our arrival at Zug (Zoug, as it is pronounced and written in German) ; a small but neat town, and the capital and only town of its canton, which is the least in Swit- zerland, containing only 30,000 inhabitants, of whom 2,500 inhabit the capital. The lake, which washes the town, is about three leagues long by one broad j one side of it presents a few mountains, but the other (nearest the town) is flat, marshy, and uninteresting. Between Zug and Zurich we passed over the field of battle, where Zuingle, the reformer, lost his life ; the plain is, I think, called Cappel. The road, which is still indifferent, passes through a country which resem- bles a continued orchard. We passed the river Sill by a long covered bridge, and stopped at a neat inn, 168 where we found some honey not inferior to any in France, although here they do not think it necessary (as in Poitou) to carry the hives of bees about the country, that by travelling they may collect every sort of perfume it affords. Above the inn is a mountain of vast height, which commands an extensive prospect over the surrounding country. We soon after beheld one of the most magnificent scenes of which Switzer- land can boast, the view of the lake of Zurich, from the hill above the village of Horgen. As it was evening when we arrived there, I could judge of the justness of Zimmerman's beautiful description of it at that time, which I had often admired at a period when I had but faint expectation of ever seeing the scene itself. Before visiting Switzerland, I had often felt surprise, on considering the great variety of states which subsist in a country of such comparatively limited extent ; but I no longer felt that astonishment, when I saw how completely many of the cantons are divided from each other, by chains of mountains, and how greatly their inhabitants differ in their dress, manners, and religion. In one day, in the cantons of Berne, Lucerne, and Zug, I saw three perfectly distinct modes of dress ; and the enormous sleeves and crape head dresses of Berne^ compared with the large flat hats, and short petticoats of Lucerne, are as totally different costumes as could be supposed to prevail in two of the most remote coun- tries. The political divisions of Switzerland, are al- most as numerous as its geographical ; and there are few countries where more diversities of opinion pre- 169 vail, respecting the means of securing that liberty which is the boast of its inhabitants. At a distance, Zurich seems surrounded by beauti- ful hills, descending gradually to the river Limmat, which, issuing from the lake, divides the city into two unequal parts. These hills are rich in pastures and vineyards, interspersed with neat cottages ; the hori- zon is bounded by the mountains of Utliberg, which are connected with the Alps ; forming, altogether, a very striking and interesting picture. 170 CHAP. XIV. On entering Zurich, it is impossible not to feel a sensation of disappointment, as its internal appearance by no means corresponds with the beauty of the distant scene. Its streets are narrow and winding, and the houses are mostly of mean architecture, but there are few places where I observed more of the activity of commerce. Many of its churches and public build- ings are handsome. It boasts of a population of i 4,000, a number exceeding that of any town in Switzerland, Geneva excepted. The Canton is next in importance to Berne, and contains 180,000 inhabi- tants. The reformation was introduced here in 1523, by Ulric Zuingle, whose death was noticed in the last chapter; he, like Pofie Julius, exchanged for a time the mitre for the helmet. The inns at Zurich are more expensive than the hotels at Paris ; they say it is owing to this being the seat of the Swiss Diet. I had the honour of dining in company with several of the de- puties (at the public table at the Sword Tavern) and they seemed very inquisitive as to the state of affairs in England. Our company exceeded thirty, and the dinner was unusually tedious : this seems to have been exheetcd, as there were pans of charcoal or ashes, pla- ced under the principal dishes, which had a very un- 171 pleasant effect. A band of mimic, stationed in an adjoining room, only served to add to the confused noise of the servants, without allowing us to judge of the beauty of the music, or of the merits of the musi- cians ; and I felt no regret when the master of the band at length thought fit that we should purchase an inter- val of quiet. Before I quitted Zurich, I was desirous of making an excursion on its lake, and accordingly joined a party in visiting Rapperschwill, which is situ- ated in a charming country, but is chiefly remarkable *or its bridge, constructed of wood, over that part of the lake which is by a promontory reduced to the width of 1800 feet, forming, perhaps, the longest bridge in Eu- rope, except that of St. Esprit, near Nismes, which is 3000 feet. The bridge of Prague is 1700 feet, and that of Westminster 1200. Soon after my return from this excursion, I set out for Schaff hausen ; but after we had lost sight of the lake and the city of Zurich, the country had nothing to interest the traveller. About a league from Zurich is the Greinfensee, but that piece of water is not interest- ing, either in point of scenery or extent. The river Glatt flows through the plain; it has none of the char- acteristics of a Swiss stream," but choked with sedges works its weary way." About two leagues further, we passed the river J6ss, which, by the beauty of its windings amongst wooden hills (on one of which stands an ancient castle) convin- ced us that we had not yet altogether bid farewell to the romantic scenery of Switzerland. 172 The woods here are very extensive, and almost en- tirely composed of fir; they produce annually a suc- cession of plants which form an underwood, and greatly contribute to the beauty of the scene, by concealing the naked stems of the older trees. The houses in the villages in the canton of Zurich much resemble those in England, being mostly built of plaster, and roofed with tiles. I was pleased with this change after the heavy wooden houses, and pro- jecting roofs (of nearly three times the height of the building) usually seen in the canton of Berne. They do not tend to enliven the country like those of Zurich) where the eye notices the contrast between the whiten- ed cottages and the green meadows. We spent a day at Winterthur, which is a considerable municipal town, rendered lively by trade. The manufactory of oil of vitriol is on a large scale, and is worthy of attention. There are several bleach-greens in the neighbourhood, as well as many vineyards, but of no great celebrity. The public library is extensive, and there is also a considerable collection of medals. We left Winterthur on foot, as the bridge over the ri- ver Tnur was unaer repair, and noi passable for a carri- age, and as we wished to approach tne fall of the Rhine by this road. We breakfasted at Adding -efeythgeq ieagues distant, and near the town were ferried over the Thur. About two hours afterwards, we heard the distant roar of the Cataract, and although I had heard so much previously of the grandeur of the scene, yet I was not disappointed with the sight. There are many fall* 173 much greater in point of height, and I had seen two previously which exceeded the present one in that par- ticular, but then the force of water was there inconsi- derable and uncertain: here one of the greatest rivers in Europe falls with inconceivable force down a perpen- dicular height from sixty to eighty feet. The colouv of the Rhine is greenish, and the mixture of the water with the foam has a curious effect. The castle of Lauffen hangs over the river, and appears to tremble from the force of the Cataract. The surrounding scenery is bold and picturesque, and when viewed from a boat on the river, the effect is very striking. There is a camera obscura placed in an ancient castle, which projects into the river, and which we admired extremely. It is supposed that the height, of this celebrated cascade is much diminished from what it was formerly, and if we consider the vast force of the torrent which the rock has sustained for ages, it seems but reasonable to conclude, that it must have yielded to such powerful and long continued assaults. We remained a considerable time contemplating this magnificent scene, and then returned through the vil- lage of Lauffen, and observed that the spire of its church was covered with painted tiles, which in this district seem a common species of decoration. We observed the peasants in many places employed in making cyder, which they but seldom think of doing except the season has proved unfavourable for the vines. I was told that nere, as in Burgundy, the last favourable vintage was that 0/I8II, and that conse- r > « 174 qucntly the' proprietors of the vineyards (of which the cultivation is so expensive) were much distressed. The red stockings of the peasants in this canton have a remarkable appearance, and reminded me of the dress of the theatre. Sch?cffhausen is the capital of the canton of that name, and is built on the right bank of the Rhine. Its bridge is but lately completed, in the place of the an- cient one, constructed by Grubenman, which was con- sidered as a great architectural curiosity, but was destroyed during one of the campaigns in this country. The town of Schaffhausen is well built, and has a handsome appearance. Its population is calculated at 7000, and that of the canton at 23,000. The reformed religion was introduced here in 1529, The clergy are paid by the state, but their allowance is far from liberal. Many swnptuary laws exist here, aria dancing is prohibited by them, except under par- ticular circumstances. I am, however, inclined to question whether these laws are stiil enforced. In the vicinity of the town are some manufactories of linens, cottons, and silks. The country, is weli cul- tivated, and the road between Ocrlingen and Bancken affords an extensive prospect of the Swiss mountains, which seem ranged in array to bid a last farewell to the departing traveller, who cannot but feel regret on leaving a country not less distinguished- for the mapn' licence of its scenery, than for the simplicity and good nature of its inhabitants. \75 At Schaff hausen I made many inquiries respecting the celebrated Schabeevge or Bhafisi'grS cheese (made in the canton of Glarus) and found that the principal ingredient which gives it so strong a perfume is the trifoiium odoratum, or meliot odorant. Tne aromatic qualities of this cheese render it very wholesome. — The Swiss tea, composed of mountain herbs, is said to be so likewise ; it is not, however, very palatable as a beverage, nor should I think it very effectual as a re- medy. If it meets in general with no greater appro- bation than it did in a party where I saw it tried, Swit- zerland cannot expect to carry on a trade in this article, sufficient to prejudice the exclusive commerce which the East India! Company enjoy with China. Tnere being nothing to detain me at Schaffhausen, I was induced at the request of a Doctor of the Univer- sity of Leipsic, with whom I became acquainted at Zu- rich, to join him in proceeding in the diligence into Germany. I found this conveyance, although tedious, yet iittie if at all inferior to those in France (although I nad understood the contrary in that country). The Doctor would have been a most agreeable companion, but for his unfortunate love of tobacco; his pipe was hardly well extinguished, before he was busy in striking his flint to rekindle it. He seemed much surprised that I did not smoke, and still more so when I told nim it was not usual in England to smoke in company ; for in Germany, after dinner and in the evening, when k.dies are present, it is usual to smoke a segar. The Doctor seemed to meditate a journey into England, but I doubt 176 whether he will find any thing there sufficient to afford him an equivalent for the abandonment of the six /li/ies which he told me he used alternately at Leip- sic. The others who composed our party had also their pipes, but were moderate in using them. The Germans are an extremely civil people compa- red with the French ; a traveller is better treated among them, without the perpetual affectation of supe- riority ; and in the parts where I have been, he will have no reason to regret the change from a French to a German inn. The general civility I met with in Germany^ and the pains the people often take to make themselves understood, as well as to understand, and supply what- ever might be requisite, claims my best acknowledg- ments. I had occasion to observe the truth of the remark, that there are many words, and expressions, very similar in the English and German languages; they further agree in being the two languages in Eu- rope, the most difficult to be learnt by a stranger. The Sunday dress of the peasants resembles that worn a century ago in England. Woollen caps are little used in Germany; and in Suabia, I observed cocked hats were very general. It was late in the day when we left Schaffhausen. Our road lay through a country, where the succession of woods, shewed us, that the Black Forest, although reduced, was not destroyed, and occasionally we had extensive views towards Switzerland. We had fallen 177 into that sort of reverie which most travellers experi- ence towards the close of the day, and which generally suspends conversation, the mind finding entertainment in its own illusions, when we were roused by finding ourselves in Deutlingen. We here passed the Da- nube, which is inconsiderable, when compared with the vast size it afterwards acquires, by the junction of other considerable rivers, in the various countries which it fertilizes by its waters. We reposed here for some hours, and to my astonishment the Doctor, lay- ing aside his pipe, entertained us with his performance on a piano forte, which was in the room, and when his tea arrived his piace was occupied by another per- former. The passion of the Germans for music is very strong, and certainly this was a more agreeable mode of passing the evening, than the tiresome recurrence of political discussions, so general in France, and which seldom fail to end in unpleasant altercations. At Deut- lingen we entered the kingdom of Wurtemberg ; and our passports, which had been signed previously to cur leaving SchafFhausett, were here re-examined : at Stut- gard Uicy were again demanded, and although the Royal Arms were affixed by the police there, yet at Liiuwigsburg, wc were detained half an hour for fur- ther scrutiny, although it is only one sta^e from Siut- gard. The Grand DuK.es of Baden, and of Iiosse Darmstadt, whose dominions we next entereci, were less suspicious, and were satisfied at our writing clown our names and destination. Tnere are lew countries 178 more sub-divided than Germany. Its ancient consti- tution was described as, " Confusio divinitus conser- •vata" and a confusion it certainly was, for the circle of Suabia alone contained four ecclesiastical, and thir- teen secular principalities : nineteen independent abbies and prelacies, and thirty -one free cities. This list was> however, greatly reduced during Buonaparte's supre- macy in Germany ; he encreased the dominions of Ba- den, Bavaria, and Wurtemberg, with the spoils of the ecclesiastical possessions, and of the free cities. He nearly doubled the territory of Wurtemberg, and its population was increased from 700,000 to 1,300,000. The territory of Baden is of great length, but narrow ; its population is now increased to 940,000. The Ger- mans are, in general, extremely anxious for the esta- blishment of the ancient system ; as, notwithstanding its defects, it afforded them an appeal from the tyranny of their numerous sovereigns to the Diet and the Em- peror, besides that it united the Germans as one fie o file. On the dissolution of the old system, the several prin- ces of the " Confederation of the Rhine" became abso- lute over their own subjects, but military vassals to Buonaparte, who, like Cade, was content they should reign, but took care to be Viceroy over them. The game laws are much and justly complained of in Germany. In Wurtemberg they are particularly oppressive. The farmers, however, seem more opu- lent than in France. The possessions of many of the nobility are much neglected, as they reside almost en- tirely at one of the great capitals. Suabia is ^enerallf 179 unenclosed, and is not often enlivened by country hou- ses, the inhabitants residing together in villages. Its trade consists in the sale of its cattle, which are in vast numbers, together with that of its corn^ wood and wines, which are occasionally of tolerable good quality. The kingdom of Wurtemberg is extremely fruitful, and is well watered by the Necker, as well as by several smaller streams. After supplying its own population, which is as numerous as can be found in most parts of Europe of the same extent, it exports vast quantities of grain to Switzerland. Almost the whole kingdom consists of well-wooded mountains, and of cultivated plains ; and farming seems to be well understood. The posts are conducted in a much better manner than I had expected. The drivers are all provided with a French horn, and wear the royal livery, yellow and black, with which colours also the direction-posts are painted. The roads are in excellent order, and miie-stones are regularly placed ; these roads are vastly superior to those in the states of Baden and Darmstadt, where there are a number of turnpikes. The traveller cannot fail to perceive that the activity of the government of Wurtemberg, much exceeds that of many of the surrounding states. We break- fasted at Bahlingen, a handsome and regularly built town. Here we witnessed a dreadful accident : the conductor of the diligence, a large and heavy man, whilst arranging some packages, fell from the top of the carriage into the street, and Jaid open one side of his head, and had he fallen on a pavement, it would 180 probably have proved fatal. A surgeon was immedi- ately sent for, who informed us that the wound was not very deep, and that he hoped it would have no serious effects. Our next stage was Heckingen, in the little state of Hohenzollern. The ancient castle of that name is situated on an eminence, and is visible, for many leagues, in all directions. The territories of this state are about fifteen miles by ten, and contain about 30,000 inhabitants : but I believe there are two reigning families ; those of Hohenzollern Heckingen and Hohenzollern Sigmaringen. This house is of con- siderable eminence ; the royal family of Prussia are descended from a junior branch, which became pos- sessed by purchase of the Margraviate of Branden- burg, and thus founded a power, which being aggran- dized by the policy of succeeding sovereigns, now holds so distinguished a place in the political scale of Eu- rope. We soon quitted the territories of the princes of Hohenzollern, and again entered Wurtemberg, and after passing for several leagues over a highly im- proved country arrived at Tubingen. 181 • CHAP. XV. Tubingen is a large and handsome town, containing about 5000 inhabitants ; its situation is low, and it is chiefly worthy of notice, as being one of the most cele- brated universities of the south of Germany. I was informed by one of its members who travelled in the Diligence, that the number of students did not then exceed 250, but that he had no doubt it would increase as public affairs assumed a more settled appearance. Here is little of that academic discipline, which distin- guishes our universities. There are no colleges, and the students live in private houses, according to their respective inclinations. There are eight professors, and an attendance on the lectures of such of them as the student may prefer, seems to constitute the sum of his academic duty. There is a large botanic garden, which is kept in good order, and contains a long range of green -houses and stoves. I here agreed to accompany a gentleman of my ac- quaintance, who wished to travel fiost to Frankfort : and had no reason to regret having left the Diligence, with the tediousness of which I was heartily tired. We set out accordingly in a sort of cabriolet, resembling a covered curricle, for Stutgard. We found much less delay at each post than we were led to expect ; and R 182 part of the time was employed in greasing and ex- amining the wheels of the carriage before starting : this custom prevents many accidents, for that ope- ration for which no time is specified, is commonly ne- glected. The price of each station is regulated by govern- ment ; and the postmasters and drivers are very civil and obliging ; but the celerity with which every thing is procured at an English inn, is not to be expected here, as the Germans are habitually slow in all their movements. A German dinner is still more tedious than a French one, and it is perhaps yet more foreign to our taste. The custom of sleeping between feather beds, as it may be altered by the traveller, if unpleasant to him, cannot be considered as a grievance ; but all who have been accustomed to the social and companionable cheer" fulness of a fire, must regret that custom, which here substitutes f*r it, the dull and un enlivening heat of a stove. That fire-place, which is so essential to the comfort of our apartments, is by German taste placed in the passage and shut up, whilst heat is conveyed into their rooms by Rues. We arrived at Stutgard without the occurrence of any thing worthy of mention, and were much pleased with its general appearance ; its streets are spacious, and the houses mostly well built. The city has in- creased considerably in size, since it has become the constant residence of its sovereign. Its population is 133 estimated at 24,000. It is an open place, but although there are no fortifications there are gates, the only use of which are to detain the traveller whilst his passport is under examination. The reformed religion is here established, but the churches have nothing to boast of in appearance. The palace is a handsome building of Italian architecture, surrounding three sides of a square. It is built of hewn stone, and over the centre entrance is placed a large gilt c?'own. Not far from the modern palace is the ancient Chateau, surrounded by a deep ditch, and flanked by gloomy bastions, for- merly the requisites to a prince's residence, but in- compatible with the luxury sought for in a modern palace. Wishing to judge of the taste of a German palace, we procured a Valet de Place to conduct us over this ; we found it fitted up in a manner which corresponded in many points to that usual in great houses in Eng- land. The suites of rooms are very numerous, but they are mostly of small dimensions. Every apart- ment is provided with a musical clock. The marbles, carpets, china, and glass lustres, are generally the pro- duction of Wurtemberg. Many of these productions display much taste, and seem to deserve the encour- agement they receive. A few of the rooms had fire-places, and almost all of them had to boast of some specimens of the industry and ingenuity of the Queen, either in painting or em* broidery. There is a museum of considerable extent, which opens into the King's Private Library, where 184 the books are all concealed behind large mirrors, so that we could not judge of either the value or taste of the selection. In a building near the palace is the King's Public Library, but we were told there was nothing in it particularly worthy of notice. There are but very few paintings by the great masters in this palace ; but we were particularly struck by a por- trait of Frederick the Great, by a German artist. I have forgotten his name j but this portrait proves his skill. The Council Chamber is a handsome apartment, and contains two marble figures of Silence and Meditation. The Council Table is long and narrow, which would not meet with Lord Baco?i's approbation, as, if I recol- lect right, he gives the preference to a round table, where all may take a part, instead of a long one, where those at the top chiefly decide. We next visited the royal stables, which contain a vast number of fine horses, the King being very fond of the chase. I was informed, that in his Private Stables here and at Ludwigsburg, there were from 700 to 800 horses, a number which exceeds that of most princes in Europe. The garrison of Stutgard consists of about 3000 men. We saw some of the troops go through their evolu- tions ; and I have seldom seen a finer body of men. The band was remarkably fine. On the parade were two little boys, sons of Prince Paul, who were decorated with stars. Having sufficiently satisfied our curiosity at Stutgard, we proceeded to Ludwigsburg, one stage distant, where there is a handsome royal palace adorn- ed with extensive gardens, and many enclosures for game, of great extent. The town is not large, but is regularly built ; and the houses, as at Stutgard and many other places in Germany, are remarkable for having a vast number of windows. After some delay about /iass/w?'ts, we were suffered to proceed, as they sometimes will not give post horses without examining the passports. Beyond the town we met several wag- gons, one of them I remarked was drawn by fourteen horses. There is much more traffic on this road than on any I had yet travelled. We passed through but one great town, Heilbron, formerly an imperial free city, but which, together with Uim and many others, was given by Buonaparte to the King of Wurtemberg. It is a tolerably well built place ; and from the number of vessels in the river, I conclude it has a share of trade. The country round it was unenclosed, and for a great distance we saw no pastures, so that they must support their cattle. on artificial crops. At Furfeld we could procure no accommodation, it being full of company ; we were_, therefore, notwithstanding the lateness of the hour, obliged to go on to Sinzheim. We parried the rain tolerably well (the carriages are but partly covered) with our umbrellas ; and escaped narrowly a more se- rious disaster, having been nearly overturned by a waggon, which broke one side of our carriage W T e found the inn small, but the people particularly obliging. I perceived that they expected some per- sonage of great importance, as the landlady questionera 8.3 136 •ur driver repeatedly whether Der Cossack had arri- ved al the last stage. It was not, however, until we had retired to rest, that the expected guest arrived ; and if importance is to be measured by noise, his must have been great indeed. Our road to Heidelberg lay for several miles along the banks of the Necker, which are well wooded, and adorned with several villages, and a large convent. The gate by which we entered Heidelberg, is a re- markably fine piece of Grecian architecture. The city is large and well built ; but there is little appear- ance of trade or activity amongst its inhabitants. The Castle is situated on a steep hill above the town, and its terrace commands a vast prospect over a plain, en- livened by the windings of the river, as well as by the spires of the city. This palace was the residence of the electors palatine, and must have been a fine piece of Gothic architecture. It was laid waste, together with the whole palatinate, in consequence of those orders which will for ever disgrace the memory of Louis the Fourteenth. It is, however, still striking ; and although the scene is silent and desolate, it is unquestionably grand. In a building adjoining the castle, is the famed Tun if Heidelberg, constructed by one of the electors at the suggestion of his buffoon, whose statue is placed near this enormous tun, which can contain 326,000 bottles. We were told that the jester (some will not allow him to be called the -foot) assisted his master in drinking eighteen bottles of the best Rhenish wine daily. The 187 table where they sat, near the tun, is still shewn. The counuy about Heidelberg- and Manheim is from its fertility called the Garden of Germany ; but I have seen in Germany much finer districts. It is a well cultivated plain, and abounds with vineyards : beyond Manheim is a greater extent of ground under potatoes, than I have ever met with before out of Ireland. There is but little wood, and the roads run between rows of walnut and cherry trees. Manheim is considered as one of the handsomest cities in Germany, being built on a regular plan. It consists of twelve streets, inter- sected at right angles by eight others ; but there is in this regularity a sameness which soon tires the eye. The Rhine passes close on one side of the city, and the Necker washing the other side, soon after falls into the Rhine, over which there is a bridge of boats. The palace is in a fine situation, and next to Versailles^ is the largest structure for the residence of a sove- reign that I have seen. This city became the resi- dence of the electors palatine, after the destruction of the Castle of Heidelberg, and the palace was erected in consequence. On the accession of the reigning family to Bavaria, Munich became their capital, and this palace was neglected. Subsequent changes have transferred this country to the Grand Duke of Baden, who continues to reside at Carlsruhe. It would now require vast sums to restore this edi- fice, which will probably be soon as desolate as the Castle of Heidelberg, with which, however, it could never stand a comparison, either in point of situation 188 or architecture. There are some handsome walks near the palace, which extend along the Ruine, where the fortifications have been demolished. There are some spacious squares in the city ; that before the town-house is adorned by a handsome bronze fountain, The population of the city has been estimated at 24,000 ; but it has probably rather diminished of late. Several of the trades-people exhibit the arms of Baden over their shops, and boast of supplying their sove- reign's family with various articles ; but trade has every appearance of being here at a very low ebb. The road for some leagues beyond Manneim was by- far the worst we had yet passed in Germany ; but then we had made a detour in visiting jVlanheim,* which does not lie on the direct road to Frankfort. The next place of any note was Darmstadt, the resi- dence of the Grand Duke of Hesse Darmstadt : it seems a place of recent origin, where much has been attempted and but little completed. There are seve- ral spacious streets marked out, and a few good houses dispersed over a considerable extent of ground, which give it a melancholy appearance. Its situation is not well chosen, as it is in a sandy plain, without any river in the vicinity. We visited the old castle or palace, situated in the centre of the town, which seems now used as a barrack. The number of troops seemed very considerable, and they are not inferior to the Wurtembergers hi appear- ance. Near the old palace are handsome gardens laid out in the English taste, which were much frequented 189 on Sunday. The present Grand Duke inhabits a palace in the suburbs, which has little to boast of. A few hours drive brought us to Frankfort. The country for the most part is flat, and abounds with woods, but, except near Frankfort, has little to interest the traveller. We found that great commercial city fully answerable to our expectations. Every thing announces the opulence of its inhabitants. The streets are spacious, and adorned with houses far surpassing any that either Paris or London can boast of. Some of the great merchants may be literally said to inhabit palaces. There are a vast number of inns; some of them are on a great scale, and worthy to be ranked among the best in Europe. I observed in the streets here a greater number of handsome private carriages than I had seen in Paris. Although the situation of Frankfort is not remarkable, in a picturesque point of view, when compared with some other cities, yet it is extremely advantageous for its inhabitants, being pla- ced in the centre of the richest country in Germany, whilst the Mein and Rhine afford every facility for commerce. The roads are also in excellent order. That between Frankfort and Mayence is paved, and is perhaps the most frequented in Germany. There are various well-known manufactories, and the shops are supplied with the productions of all countries. I first noticed here the custom of having small mirrors pro- jecting into the streets, thai: the inhabitants may see, by reflection, what passes in them. 190 The advantages of Frankfort for commerce have attracted a vast number of Jews, and reconcile them to many regulations, imposed by the magistrates, which otherwise they would not submit to. Their numbers are said to exceed 6,000 in a total population of nearly 50,000. The fame of Frankfort is not, however, mere- ly of a commercial nature. It can boast of having pro- duced many of the most eminent literary characters of Germany. All religions are here tolerated ; but, under its old constitution, the members of government were Luthe- rans, and Calvinists were excluded from any share in the management of affairs. The present magistrates are only provisionally appointed since the late change in its situation. The cathedral is a venerable Goinic edifice, as is also the town-house; but Frankfort is more remarkable for a general air of magnificence than for the exclusive elegance of any particvnar build- ings. Thece are seven or eight gates to the city, some of which are handsome, and adorned with statues of many worthies, whose names I could not learn. The busts of Alexander and Roxana were however too con- spicuous to escape notice ; but their connexion with Frankfort I am not antiquary enough to trace. Frank- fort cannot be considered as a fortified place. Its bas- tions are planted with shrubs, and form a pleasant walk tor its citizens. Hamburg has recently afforded a meiancholy example of the evil which walls may brhig upon a commercial city; and the people of Frankfort cannot regret the use to wiiich their bas- 191 t-ions are applied. I was, by the favour of a merchant, to whom I had an introduction, admitted as a tempora- ry member of the Casino, or Public Institution. It is one of the best conducted establishments I have seen. There are not less than 1 10 nevvs/ia/iers, besides other periodical publications ; and after an interval of two months, I was glad again to peruse an English news- paper. The reading-room, like the council-chamber at Stutgard, is adorned by a figure of Silence, and I think the hint seems well observed. There are, how- ever, several very spacious and elegantly decorated apartments, for conversation, cards, billiards, &c. — These rooms are frequented by ladies in the evenings, and then bear some resemblance to a London rout. The concerts at Frankfort are remarkably good. There is only one theatre ; and, as the performance was in German, I only went once out of curiosity. The number of villas around Frankfort are numerous and handsome, and the villages are large, and have every appearance of opulence. Here are many fine or- chards, and the cider of Afchaffenburg can be only distinguished from wine by a connoisseur. At Hochst, six miles from Frankfort, stands the large edifice noticed by Dr. Moore, as having been built by a great tobacconist of Frankfort, out of spite to the magistrates of that city, with whom he had quar- relled ; and he endeavoured to induce merchants to settle here. His plan, however, failed, and this great building is almost uninhabited. This village is at pre- 192 sent chiefly remarkable for a manufacture of porcelain of excellent quality. Great preparations were making at Frankfort to ce- lebrate the anniversary of the glorious battle of Leipsig; and I was present at the inspection of about 6,000 men, preparatory to the great review on the eighteenth. There were many ladies present, and, although the weather was far from being warm, yet few of them wore bonnets. In general their hair was rolled round their heads. Not being able to delay any longer in Frankfort, I took the road to Mayencc, and passed through the large village of Hochheim, which contain g 300 families. It was formerly the property of the chapter of May- ence but its future destiny is at present undecided. From this piace is derived the English name of Hock, which is applied to all the wine of the Rhingau. There are vast numbers of vineyards and fruit-trees around the village ; and, from a hill above it, is seen the junc- tion of the Mayn with the Rhine, in the midst of this rich country. The waters of the Mayn are of a dark hue, but do not, however, succeed in obscuring altoge- ther the colour which the Rhine brings from Switzer- land, and which I had so much admired at Schaffhau- sen. From the bridge of boats which is 1,400 feet in length, and which forms the communication between Mayence and Cassel, one sees the Rhine forced by mountains to change its northerly direction, and, after forming some small islands it runs for some distance to the eastward. The mountains, which change the 193 course of this vast river, form the Rhingau so celebra- ted for its wines. That of the village of Rudeshei)*; is particularly noted for producing the best wine of the Rhingau, and consequently of Germany. The French had expended vast sums on the fortifications of Cassel and Mayence, and rendered the latter, one of the keys of Germany, as well from its strength as from its situa- tion. They had always a great depot here, which considerably benefited the city ; the loss of that advan- tage is much regretted. When seen from the bridge (which is longer than that of Westminster) Mayence presents a striking ap- pearance on account of its spires, and the vessels that line its quay, which presents a scene of considerable activity. On the custom-house were displayed the flags of Austria, Prussia, and Bavaria; but to which of those powers the city is to be subject is still undeter- mined. On the river are a great number of corn-mills ^ necessary where there is so great a garrison. The barracks are handsome, and on a large scale. The general appearance of the interior of Mayence is bad. The streets are in general narrow, dirty, and intricate. Near the castle are some good houses. The cathedral is one of the largest buildings in Ger- many. It has suffered considerably in the late wars, and is now covered with wood. Its appearace is not, however, very striking, and it is surrounded with mean houses. I observed that a statue, "« V Emfiereur" v* still standing in front of one of the houses in this city. Its population is said to be 26,000. The inhabitant!.* s 194 for a considerable distance round Mayence, subsist principally by agriculture. They export their grain on the Rhine to Switzerland. They have abundance of vegetables, and the lower orders live a good deal on cabbage, which is here of a large size. 19; CHAP. XVI. At Mayence I embarked on the Rhine for Cologne* (above 100 English miles distant), to see the banks of a river so highly celebrated. Our company in the boat was not numerous, and would have been sufficiently agreeable, but for the continual political rhapsodies of two Frenchmen, one of whom was an officer, and spoke with confidence of recovering all the conquests of of France. These Frenchmen, in spite of the remon- strances of the Germans present, insisted, like the physicians in Moliere, that they best knew what was for their good, and that they (the Germans) must be again united to France. One of these politicians asked me, if I did not think that Talleyrand would demand the left bank of the Rhine, as essential to France, at the congress of Vienna. I answered, I did not think it was probable he would ask for countries which France had so recently relmouished, nor was it to be expected that the allies would, to oblige him, depart from their principle of restraining France within those boundaries, which had, for centuries, been found as extensive as were consistent with the tranquillity of the rest of Eu- rope ; and that, for my own part, I could not conceive the acquisition of those provinces to be esse?it?al to France, which had never been more prosperous than at a pe- 196 1 when she formed no pretensions to so great an aggrandizement. Waving- any further discussions on a subject which - vanity of these gentlemen would have extended ad infinitum, or, at least, longer than I wished, I left them to their own lucubrations, and went on deck to con- ;i;plate the grandeur of the scenery which surround- ed us, and which was reflected in the transparent wa- fers of the Rhine. The river hero resembles a suc- cession of lakes, and is surrounded in many places by such lofty mountains, that I was often at a loss to guess gii which side we should find an opening* to continue our course. The country along the Rhine is consider- ed as one of the richest districts in Europe ; it abounds with considerable towns, and with villages which, in other countries, would be considered as towns. Al- most every eminence is crowned with an ancient castle, and there is scarcely a reach of the river which does not exhibit some ruin in the boldest situation that can be imagined. The houses too being mostly white, and covered with blue slates, add considerably to the beauty of the scene. The Tour dc Souris is situated on an island near the Gulfih of Bingerlock, where the river presents a curi- ous appearance, being extremely agitated by hidden rocks, and the different currents are very violent. We dined at Bingen, where the Noh falls into the Rhine. The mountains of Niederwald cast a considerable shade around, and the mixture of woods and vineyards is highly picturesque, but the vines being mostly blight- 137 ed, had this year the same autumnal tint as the trees. In this country, the vine is almost the only product co. the soil, and the inhabitants, who subsist chiefly by itj now behold with regret its withered state, and are melancholy and inactive, instead of being engaged in the pleasing cares of the vintage. This is the third year here, as well as in Burgundy and other districts, since there has been a favourable vintage ; and it is only by mixing some of the vintage of 1811, with that of the subsequent years, that the inhabitants can dispose of a small portion of this infe- rior produce. Boppart was the former residence of the electors of Treves, but the palace is now failing to decay. Whilst contemplating this, mouldering pile, I was struck with the well known sounds of our national air, " God save the King" which some of the company below sang in chorus (being probably tired of the politics of the Frenchmen, as much as I was), this air being origin- ally German. The evening was fine for the season, and about siin-set, several of the distant hills presented a fine appearance, having bonfires on their tops, this being the 18th of October, which will be long celebra- ted in commemoration of the decisive battle of Leipzig. Most of the company came on deck to witness the effect of the bonfires. The Germans seemed delight- ed at the sight which the Frenchmen surveyed in si- lence. One of them, however, soon recovering his loquacity, asked me if I had been at Paris, which he s % 198 said was the greatest city in the world, and larger than London. This I could not assent to, being* contrary to fact. Yet it woul:i be difficult for French ingenuity to prove what benefits result to a country from an overgrown capital. Superiority is, however, all they contend for. We soon saw the singular building (in an island) called the Palatinate ; it is now used as a public granary, and was illuminated in honour of the day, as was also the neat village of St. Goar, where we passed the night. All seemed to partake of the festivity, and I could not discern in the inhabitants any symptoms of regret that they were no longer subject to France. Having set out at an early hour, we reached Cob- lentz to breakfast. It is a large town, containing 12,000 inhabitants, and is advantageously situated at the con- fluence of the Moselle and Rhine. It was garrisoned chiefly by the Royal Guards of Saxony, who exceeded in appearance any troops I had seen on the continent. Some of them are stationed in the ci-devant palace, which is situated close to the river. The lofty mountain opposite the town is covered with the ruins of Jihrenbrtitsttin, which was at one time considered as the strongest fortress on the Rhine. Opposite the town was a bridge of boats, but it was destroyed in tne lasc war, and a flying bridge is sub- stituted pro tempore. The Rhine is so rapid near Andernach, as never to freeze in the severest winter, and it here proceeds longer in a straight course, than I had yet seen in any part. Neuwied, although subject 199 to inundations, is a large well built and commercial town. Lower clown, on the left bank of the river, I observed an obelisk, which I found, on inquiry, was erected to the French General Marsan, who fell during the period of the first invasion of Germany by the French republicans. Still farther, and close to the river, stands an ancient building, called The Devil's House, but, from what circumstance, I could not ex- actly discover. Some attribute it to the vast number of windows it contains. The situation of Lowdersdorf is highly picturesque, and the surrounding hills are shaded with woods of great antiquity. We here saw several rafts of timber of large dimensions, proceeding slowly down the stream. At Lintz, the landsturm were mustered to fire a volley, as the victory of Leipsig was celebrated for two or three days in most parts of Germany. At Bonn, I witnessed further rejoicings, and the illumina- tions presented a highly pleasing effect when beheld from the river. I was at this place invited to a ball and su/i/ier, where I remained until a late hour, enjoy- ing the general festivity. Bonn is a w T ell built city, containing about 14,000 inhabitants, and was formerly the general residence of the electors of Cologne. About a league above the city are the seven mountains, and near them is a beau- tiful island of considerable extent, in which is a large convent. Here ends the picturesque scenery of the Rhine, which pursues the rest of its course through a flat 200 country, until its waters are dispersed amongst the ca- nals of Holland. The river is here of great width, but not so deep as it is higher up. Before Bonn we saw the remains of two merchant vessels which had been wrecked there a few days be- fore. Those who embark on the Rhine for pleasure, should here leave their boats, and pursue the rest of their journey by land, as the country ceases to be in- teresting, and the navigation is often difficult. We set out with a favourable wind ; but about a league trom Cologne our boat was driven on the right bank of the Rnine by a violent gale ; and as there ap- peared no immediate prospect of proceeding by water, most of the party determined on walking to the city. We found the flying bridge had been damaged by the late storm, and were therefore obliged to wait a long time for a boat of sufficient size to pass the river, which was greatly agitated, and which is here of great depth, although much narrower than at Mayence. Few cities present a more imposing appearance than Cologne ; a vast extent of buildings, a profusion of steeples, and a forest of masts, raise the expectations of the traveller. Tiie deception cannot be more justly or more empha- tically described than in the words of Dr. Johnson : " Remotely we see nothing but spires of temples, and turrets of palaces, and imagine it the residence of splendour, grandeur, and magnificence ; but when we have passed the gates, we find it perplexed with nar- row passages, disgraced with despicable cottages, em- barrassed with obstructions, and clouded with smoke." 201 Cologne is one of the largest and most ancient cities in Germany ; it was founded by Agrififia, and is above three miles in length ; but the population is only be- tween 40 and 50,000, which is very inconsiderable for its great extent. From the number of its churches, which at one time amounted to 300, it has been called the Rome of Germany. One of them (the Dome), although still unfinished, is one of the grandest efforts of architecture, and excites the admiration of all judges of that art. The port owes its improvement to Buo- naparte, and the quay is lined with ships of considera- ble size. The city was anciently imperial, and the elector of Cologne could not reside more than three days together in it without permission of the magistrates ; but those who have ever seen this gloomy city, will not, I think, consider this restriction as a grievance. I here left the Rhine ; it is difficult sufficiently to praise the beauties of its banks, which afford also ample scope for the researches of the naturalist. They are not, however, adorned with that number of country seats which enliven many of our rivers, and a few con- vents and palaces only are to be seen ; although villa- ges and towns are very numerous. I must not omit to mention, that I visited the house in which Rubens was born ; his name is given to the street, which, like most others at Cologne, has little beauty. He had furnished many of the churches of his native city with paintings, but several of them have been removed to Paris. He has been cailed the Jjax of painter 8 , and 202 his great excellence appears in the grandeur of his compositions ; the art of colouring was by him carried to the highest pitch. Rubens, however great his skill, deserves the praise of ' modesty , as, although he is allow- ed to have been little inferior to Titian in landscape, he employed Widens and Van-uden when landscapes were introduced into his paintings, and Snyders for animals, who finished them from his designs. The country around Cologne is well cultivated, but is unenclosed up to the walls of the city, and there are none of those eiegant villas to be seen which distin- guish the neighbourhood of Frankfort ; but it is im- possible for any two places to be more completely the reverse of each other in every respect. My next stage was Juliers, the ancient capital of the duchy of the same name ; it is a small city, but is well fortified, and its citadel is said to be of uncommon strength. As we approached Aix-la-Chapelle the roads became very indifferent, the soil being a deep sand ; they are, however, in many places paved in the centre. Aix-la-Chapelle is a large, and, in general, a well- built city. The windows, in most of the houses, are very large, and give it a peculiar appearance. It was called by the Romans A^uisgranum, or Urbes Aguensis. It has for ages been celebrated for its waters, which resemble those of Bath ; but some of the springs are still hotter. There are five springs which attract eve- ry year much company; b^t the season had ended be- fore my arrival. This city was chosen by Charlemagne 203 as the place of his residence, on account of the p lea- santness of its situation ; and, until its incorporation with France, held the first rank among the imperial cities of Germany. According to the Golden Bull the emperors were to be crowned here ; but Charles V. was the last who conformed to that regulation. The ancient walls of Aix enclose a vast extent of ground, and afford a pleasant walk ; but there is much of the space enclosed in fields and gardens, and the population is not proportioned to the remaining build- ings, being no more than 30,000. The surrounding country is highly picturesque and varied, cultivation and woods being interspersed. The woods in this country have been, however, much diminished of late years. But there are, it may be observed, coal mines to supply sufficient fuel for the inhabitants. The town or great village of Burscheid adjoins the gates of Aix ; it is very flourishing. Near it is a fine abbey. I was also pleased with the ruins of the castle of Frankenberg. Here is a manufactory of needles, and about Aix are several of cloth. From the Tower of Sittard is a view of vast extent over the Netherlands. The cathedral of Aix is a large Gothic stiucture, but many of its decorations are tri- fling, and inconsistent with the solidity of its massy columns of marble and granite. Its doors are of bronze highly wrought, but full of fissures. The streets here are crowded with beggars ; and I think I never was in a place where so little respect is paid to the observance of Sunday. In most towns 204 on the continent the theatres, Sec. are open, but most of the shops are closed during some part of the day ; here they were open during the whole day, and seem- ed equally busy as during the rest of the week. The country between Aix and Liege produces great quantities of hops (the vine of the north of Eu- rope) and the beer here is very good. Clermont is a neat village, with several good houses. We passed over some mountains, which seem to be the limit of the German language ; the inhabitants of them speak a dialect intelligible neither at Liege nor Aix. The country near Liege is rich, and the city is situ- ated in a beautiful valley on the Meuse; it is extreme- ly large, but is ill built, and the streets are more intricate and dirty even than those of Cologne. There is a good deal of trade carried on here, and the popula- tion is estimated at not less than 50,000. There are a great number of churches, but I was not much struck with any of them ; that of the Dominicans is said to be copied from St. Peter's at Rome. There are a great number of booksellers here, and I was told it was a famous place to procure cheap books. The coal here seems of a good quality, and the place is surrounded with collieries. The lower orders in this city speak a jargon called Walloon, which is completely unintelli- gible to the higher classes. The French customs are generally prevalent here ; and it is said, the inhabitants regret their separation from France. There were vast manufactories of cut- 203 lery here, bat the French, before their departure, de stroyed most of the machinery ; this, together with the failure of other trades, is said to produce the dis- tress which fills the streets with beggars. The general a/i/iearance of the inhabitants of Liege is not more prepossessing to a stranger than that of their city. There are said to be a great number of thieves, and 1 saw some surprised whilst cutting the trunks from behind a carriage at the inn-door. The money here is extremely adulterated, and is not taken one stage from the city, a circumstance which fre- quently is attended with great loss to the traveller, if he has occasion to receive much change. In this neighbourhood are several vineyards, but the climate is too cold to admit of the wine having a good flavour. They here cultivate a species of cabbage, the seed of which produces a thick oil, which is used in dying stuffs, and forms part of the composition of the black soap of this country. I found that the season had long ended at Spa ; that the roads were bad, and that it was above thirty miles out of my way, and therefore determined on proceeding to Brussels in the diligence, to make trial of one of the public carriages of this country, having found the posting good from Cologne to Liege, I found it ex- tremely spacious, when compared to those in England, and it was lined with faded yellow damask. I had but two companions, who according to Rousseau's Axiom, would not be entitled to the name of men, which, he says belongs to none under Jive feet six inches. T 206 They proved, however, sufficiently agreeable com- panions, and I found they resided at Louvain. We proceeded at the rate of rather more than four English miles an hour, which was quicker than I had before travelled in a public carriage on the Continent. Our first stage presented nothing remarkable ; but the next, St. Tron, was a remarkably neat little town. There is a spacious square surrounded with good houses, and at one end is the town-house ; the church is a large building, and its steeple contains a set of musical chimes, to which the people of this country are very partial. We next reached Tirlemont^ formerly one of the most considerable cities of Brabant, which is at pre- sent by no means of equal importance. The surround- ing country is fruitful ; many of its villages contain cottages of clay, which I did not expect to see in so opulent a province ; they are indeed spacious, and the interior is kept very neat. The general appearance of the people here is much more in their favour than at Liege. Tirlemont contains manufactures of flannels, stock- ings, and cloth. The cotton trade^ formerly the great staple of the Netherlands, has of late years been great - Iv on the decline. 207 CHAP. XVII. Although the present population of the Nether- lands bears no proportion to that which it formerly maintained, yet it is still very considerable, and ex- ceeds that of any country in Europe, Holland only excepted ; being 252 persons to each square mile (see ch. xi. for the population of Switzerland, &c.) The decrease in the number of inhabitants in these provin- ces is chiefly to be attributed to the religious persecu- tions which compelled thousands of industrious fami- lies to emigrate. This depopulation is very perceptible in many of the cities I passed through, which are capable of contain- ing double their present number of inhabitants, and is no where more striking than at Lou vain, where the present population does not exceed 25,000, and where formerly there were 4000 manufactories of cloth, which supported 15,000 labourers. This city is surrounded with an ancient wall of brick, which, as well as its nu- merous towers, presents a half ruined appearance.-— < Many of the public buildings of Louvain indicate its former opulence. The town-house is considered as a model of GothiG architecture, and the cathedral of St. Peter is a stately building. The portal of the Colle- gium Falconis presents a specimen of Grecian w 208 lecture, which is much admired for its simplicity. The University of Louvain was formerly of great celebrity, and no person could exercise any public authority in the Austrian Netherlands, without having graduated here. This regulation, however beneficially intended, only produced the effect of raising extreme- ly the expence of the different diplomas, without being attended with any advantage, except to the funds of the university. In the present unsettled state of the Netherlands, it cannot be expected that the seats of learning should be as much frequented, as they proba- bly will be when their new sovereign shall have had leisure to turn his attention to the important subject of -public education ; and the wisdom of the regulations he has promulgated, on other matters of general in- terest (particularly that which enforces the more solemn observation of Sunday) leaves little room to doubt that this point will, in its turn, be duly and suc- cessfully attended to. Those who have resided at Louvain have observed, that its inhabitants are in gene- ral more polite than in most of the towns in these pro- vinces ; but my stay was not sufficiently long to enable me to form any opinion on the subject. The manners ©f the people do not seem to me very dissimilar from those of the French, but others think they most resem- ble the Dutch. In fact, the Net her landers have no very fiecidiar characteristics, but partake, in many re- spects, of those which distinguish the various nations from whom they are descended. They have been much and often abused by various writers, who have 2t)3 attributed to them all the faults of almost ail the na- tions of Europe, without allowing that they possess any of the good qualities by which those faults are pallia- ted in the other nations. Those, however, who are of a candid disposition will not feel inclined to assent to the truth of statements so evidently dictated by enmity or spieen. But whilst I would not have the Flemish considered as a compound of all that is exceptionable in the human character, I do not consider them as meriting any particular firaise ; nor can I vindicate them from the charge of dishonesty, which has been so often alleged against them. In general on the con- tinent, where the English are the subjects of extortion, the fraud is considered as trivial, and the French often boast in conversation how John Bull is pillaged at Paris. But whatever may be the Flemish character^ it is allowed by all that they follow the French cus- toms in their domestic arrangement, but are in general more cleanly. Their kitchens are kept very neat, and their cooking apparatus is ranged in order round the stove, which, in many of the kitchens that I saw in the small inns, projects considerably into the room. Many of the inhabitants of these provinces (like my two companions in the Louvain Diligence) are below the middle size ; they are extremely intelligent and active, and in general civil to strangers. Before I quit Louvain, I must not omit to notice that it is famous for its beer, which is certainly the best I have tasted on the continent. The number of breweries is said to exceed twenty? and the consumption is astonishingly 2 T 210 great in the neighbourhood, besides a considerable ex- port trade. I continued my journey to Brussels along an excel- lent road, the centre of which was paved, as from the nature of the soil it would be otherwise impassable in winter. The roads in this country run for many miles together in a straight line between rows of trees ; and I must confess I thought it very uninteresting to travel through. The flatness of its surface is but rarely in-' terrupted by any eminence, which affords a prospect calculated to make any impression on the mind. There are many neat villages, and occasionally one sees coun- try seats decorated in that formal style of gardening, which was originally introduced from this country into England, but which has there long since yielded to a more natural taste. The farming seems very neatly managed ; the numerous canals, although they add nothing to the beauty of the country, are of great utility to the farmer ; and travelling is very cheap in the boats, which pass between the chief towns. It would require scenery like that of the Rhine, to induce me to adopt this conveyance ; but many of these canals pass between banks which exclude all view of the surrounding country. I found the Netherlander generally impatient to be relieved from the great mili- tary expences incident to their present situation. There is, I think, little reason to doubt, that when some of the existing taxes can be removed, the Orange family will become popular. The stamp duties are very heavy ; there are land and house taxes, and a personal tax. It 211 is to be expected, that the people should wish for a diminution of their burdens, but Liege is the only place I have visited in the countries lately relinquished by France, where the separation seems to be generally regretted. I found that the Prussian government was by no means popular on the left bank of the Rhine, and that an union with either Austria or Bavaria, was much wished for in those provinces, whose future destiny remains to be decided at the Congress of Vienna. Having met with but few English travellers since I had quitted Switzerland, I was much struck on enter- ing Brussels with the vast numbers of my fellow sub- jects, moving in all directions. The garrison was al- most entirely composed of English troops, so that I felt here quite at home. I found that there was an Eng- lish theatre, as well as a French one, and that balls, and entertainments of all descriptions, a V Anglaise^ were in abundance. Indeed, the upper part of the city differed little in appearance from an English watering place. Brussels is a city of great extent, built partly on the river Senne (naturally a very inconsiderable stream, but which, being formed here into a canal, becomes of much advantage), and partly on a hill, commanding an extensive view of the rich and fertile plain by which it is surrounded, much of which resembles a vast kitchen garden. It is, like Louvain, surrounded by a ruined wall of brick, as formerly all the towns of Flanders were fortified. This was the capital of the Austrian 212 Netherlands, and lately the chief place of the French department of the Dyle ; it will, probably, now be- come, for a part of the year, the residence of its new sovereign, whose sons are at present amongst its in- habitants. The inhabitants of Brussels are calculated at 70,000, and its environs give the traveller an idea of its importance, as they have an appearance of much traffic, and are decorated with many villas which an- nounce the opulence, but not always the good taste of their owners. The city is, in general, irregularly built, and the lower part does not deserve commenda- tion ; but the place royale is fine : the park is sur- rounded by many handsome public buildings, and by a number of private houses, which wouid ornament any capital in Europe. Tne park is of considerable ex- tent, and forms an agreeable promenade. Its avenues are kept in excellent order ; they abound with statues and other formal decorations, winch are, however, more admissible in a city promenade than in the re- tirement of the country. A fountain here was cele- brated by Peter the Great's having fallen into it, as that monarch, like Cato, was said, " Saepe mero caluisse virtus." " His virtue oft with wine to warm." The circumstance was recorded by the following inscription : 213 iv Petrus Alexowilz, Czar Moscovia?, magnus dux, margini hujus fontis insidiens, illius aquam nvobilitavlt libato vino hora post meridiam tenia, die 16 Aprilis, in?'." " That renowned General P. A., Czar of Moscovy, having pour- ed forth ample libations of wine, whilst sitting on the brink of this fountain, fell into, and ennobled its waters, about three o'clock in the afternoon of the 16th of April, 17 17." The town-house is one of the most conspicuous of the public buildings at Brussels, although it is situated in the lowest part of the town, its steeple rising to the height of 364 feet; it is a very fine piece of Gothic architecture. The equestrian statue, noticed by M. Dutens, as being placed on the toji of a house in the square before the town-house, has disappeared ; the horse and his rider having been removed to a more suitable situation. The church of St. Gudule presents a venerable and interesting appearance ; it contains several fine paintings, and windows of stained glass. There are many ancient tombs of the old Dukes of Brabant. The church of St. James is also worthy of notice, and its facade of the Corinthian order, is an ele- gant and uniform piece of architecture, which does honour to the taste of the builder. Brussels contains many fine collections of paintings, which I have not time to enumerate ; but I was much pleased with some pictures of 1ST. Danoots, to whom I had a letter. They are not very numerous, but are undoubted originals of S. Rosa, Teniers, Rembrandt, Myt€7i8 r and of J. Bassano, who is remarkable for 214 having attained a greater age (82) than most of the great painters ; he has accordingly left behind him a greater number of pictures than almost any other mas- ter. He is said to have expressed great regret on his death-bed, that he should be obliged to quit the world at the moment when he had begun to make some little progress in his art. A shorter life than Bassano's, is, however, sufficient to establish the reputation of an artist. Raphael died in his 37th year, but public opin- ion has placed him at the head of his art for general firojiciencij . There are several excellent hotels in Brussels which command a view of the park. I was at one of these, the Hotel de Bellevue, and found the hour of the table d'hote had been changed to accommodate the English, to four o'clock, at least two hours later than the usual time ; but as the company consisted always entirely of English it was but reasonable they should fix the hour. The dinner here more resembled an English one, than any I had hitherto seen on the Continent, and reminded me of the public tables at Cheltenham. Brussels was some months since a very cheafi resi- dence, but I have been assured, that the prices of most articles have more than doubled since our troops first arrived here. Living at an hotel here is nearly as ex- pensive as in London ; but no doubt there is a consi- derable saving in the expenses of a family who are recommended to honest trades-people. There are still a number of r^ood houses to be let, notwithstanding- the great influx of English, many of whom have enga- 215 ged houses for four or five years, on terms which seem very reasonable to those accustomed to the London firices. The country round Brussels presents several excur- sions which would probably have better answered my expectations had the weather been more favourable. The Abbey of Jurourin, was a country seat of the princes of the Austrian family, and was formerly fa- mous for its menagerie. The forest of Sogne is of great extent ; and its numerous avenues, which now had a sombre appearance, are, no doubt, in summer, much frequented by the inhabitants of Brussels. This forest was the property of the Emperor of Germany, and is said to have produced an annual revenue of one mil- lion of florins. The prison, or house of correction, at Vilv orde, is worthy of attention, from the excellent manner in which it is conducted. Those who wish for the introduction of some improvements into our workhouses, might surely derive many useful hints from the manner in which similar establishments are conducted abroad ; and although I have never thought much on the subject, yet I did not fail to remark the cleanliness, regularity, and industry, which prevailed here and in another place of the same kind near Berne. Brussels is seen to great advantage from the ancient ramparts which surround it. I went entirely round the city in about two hours, and afterwards attended di- vine service, which was performed in English, to a congregation which proved the great number of En- 216 glish now here. There are at present but few very strongly fortified cities in Belgium, compared with the vast number which it formerly contained. The period is past, when, after the ablest engineers had exerted their utmost skill in the construction of fortifications around its cities, generals not less distinguished, con- tended for the honour of reducing them. Amongst numberless other instances, the siege of Ostend suffi- ciently attests how successful the engineers have been in rendering those places strong ; and also bears am- ple testimony to the perseverance of the commanders who at last succeed in taking them. Ambrose Spino- la entered Ostend in 1604, after a siege of above three years, during which the besieged lost 50,000 and the besiegers 80,000 men. The siege and capture of Valenciennes might also be adduced, if testimony were wanting of the zeal and bravery of British armies and commanders. But however justly these sieges are celebrated in modem times, the antiquarian who con- tends for the supremacy of past ages over the present, will not fail to instance the siege of Troy and tlie ex- ploits of Achilles and Agamemnon, as a more distin- guished instance of perseverance than any to be met with in these degenerate days, and if he should meet with some sceptic who insists that the heroes of Homer owe their existence only to the imagination of the poet, although he can assent to no such hypothesis, yet he will also instance the siege of Azotus, on the fron- tiers of Egypt, which Psammeticus, meditating exten- sive conquests, and thinking it beneath him to leave so 2 If strong a fortress unsubdued, is related to have speiv, 29 years of his reign in reducing. As I was desirous of visiting Antwerp and Ghent, and as the period allotted for my tour was drawing to a close (a circumstance which the advanced season of the year gave me bat little reason to regret) I left Brussels, enveloped in a fog, which might remind the English fashionables of those so prevalent in London during the gloomy season of November, and proceed- ed to Malines, 14 miles distant, formerly one of the greatest cities in Belgium, but now like too many other once celebrated places in that country, affording a me- lancholy contrast to its former splendour, and proving that in the vicissitude of all sublunary affairs, cities, as well as their inhabitants, are subject to decay. Non indignemur mortalia corpora solvi. Cernimus exemplis oppida posse mori. Here are several manufactories of excellent lace, and many breweries, but the beer is considered as greatly inferior to that of Louvain. The houses are spacious, and exhibit singular specimens of ancient taste ; the roofs rise to a great height, and terminate in a sharp point. Their walls are generally of an ex- cessive whiteness. The tower of the cathedral is highly finished, and rises to a vast height. There being little to detain me here, Malines being more re- markable for what it once was, than for what it now is, I continued my way to Antwerp along an excellent: TJ 218 paved road, lined by avenues of trees, which are often so cut (the Dutch differing from the Minorquins, who never prune a tree, saying, that nature knows best how it should grow) as not to be at all ornamental, and in some places cannot be said to afford either " from storms a shelter, or from heat a shade." In that state, however unnatural, they answer the intention of their planters, by marking the course of the road in the snowy season, without excluding the air from it in the wet weather, prevalent in autumn. Antwerp is one of the most celebrated cities of Eu- rope, and although its present situation is far from comparable with its former celebrity, yet it has revi- ved greatly of late years ; and the events which have restored to these provinces their independence, will, no doubt, fill with the vessels of all trading nations those docks, which were constructed by the French government at such incredible expence, and with far different views than the encouragement of commercial speculations. The canals by which these docks com- municate with Bruges and Ostend, that the navy of Napoleon might run no risks by passing on the high seas, are vast works, which must have cost enormous sums of money. The Scheld is here about half the width of the Thames at Westminster ; but Antwerp is above fifty miles from its mouth. Its depth is very considerable ; and such was at one period the com- merce of Antwerp, that not less than 2500 vessels an- nually entered its port. The present population of this city is stated at 60,000. There are manufactures 219 of lace, silk, chocolate, and extensive establishments for refining sugar. The export of the productions of the fruitful district which surrounds the city is very considerable. Nothing proves more strongly the riches of these ftrovinces y than the short period in which they recover the evils of a campaign ; and it was their fer- tility in grain, which principally rendered them of such importance to the French government. During the late scarcity in France, the crops succeeded tolerably well here ; and Buonaparte obliged the inhabitants of Belgium to supply France at a price which he fixed himself, and by which they lost considerably. There are many buildings at Antwerp, which are justly admired for their magnificence, particularly the cathedral, which, like many other churches here, was decorated by the pencil of Rubens. The tower of the cathedral is a rich specimen of Gothic. The general effect of this building is lessened by a number of mean houses which surround it. The church of St. Andre contains a monument to the memory of Mary Queen of Scotland. The town-house is a large building ; its facade is 250 feet in length, and is composed of all the orders of architecture. Many of the streets at Ant- werp are tolerably well built. I was informed that many individuals have good collections of paintings, by the chief painters which this country has produced. It is impossible to pass through Flanders without being struck with the exactness with which its painters have represented the face of their country, and the persons of its inhabitants. Antwerp, on the whole has a tole- 220 rainy cheerful appearance. The promenade of Peni- piere is pleasant, and much frequented by the citizens. The country between Antwerp and Gand, presents, like the rest of Flanders, a level surface, highly culti- vated, traversed by excellent roads, running in straight lines from one town to another. I must, however, own that I have seldom traversed a more uninteresting country. But as the reign of a prince, which affords the fewest incidents for the commemoration of the his- torian, is thought to be often the most fortunate for the interests of his subjects, so a country, which is passed over in silence by the tourist, as devoid of those natural beauties, which fix his attention, often contains the most land susceptible of cultivation, which best repays the labours of the husbandman, and is the most valuable to the possessor. Many of the Flemish inns are very neat ; but the traveller who has recently quitted Ger- many, is struck with their inferiority in point of deco- ration (although, perhaps, in no other respect) to those of that country, which abound with gilding, trophies, and armorial bearings, to invite the stranger, who here has a less shewy intimation of the entertainment he seeks for. The peasants here commonly wear wooden shoes ; and they who do not consider how powerful is the force of custom, are surprised how they contrive to walk so well, in such aukward and clumsy ma- chines. 2'2i CHAP. XVIII. Gand, or Ghent, is the capital of Flanders, and is one of the greatest cities in Europe as to extent ; it is seven miles in circumference. It is situated on the Scheldt and Lys, which are here joined by two smaller rivers, which with numerous canals intersect the city, and form upwards of twenty islands, that are united by above 100 bridges. No position can be conceived more favourable for trade than this. But Gand is greatly fallen from the once splendid situation she held amongst the cities ot Europe, and although superior to either Brussels or Antwerp in point of appearance, its population is now inferior to those cities, being re- duced to 58,000 : a very inconsiderable number for a city of such extent. Gand is celebrated as the birth- place of the emperor Charles the Fifth. It exhibited at different periods proofs of his attachment to a piace of which he boasted being a citizen, and of the severity %vith which he punished the revolt of its inhabitants. In more ancient times Gand produced another charac- ter of political importance, d\4rtcville, a brewer, whose influence in this city (then one of the first in Europe) made King Edward the Third of England solicitous for his friendship ; and history informs us that one af u 2 222 his sons, at the head of 60,000 Gantois, carried on a war against his sovereign. Here was concluded the celebrated treaty in 1516, called the Pacification of Gand ; and it may in future times be famous for the conclusion of a treaty between England and America. Charles the Fifth comparing the extent of Paris with that of this city, is said to have remarked, " gu'il auroit mis tout Paris dans Gand ;" and, except Paris, and perhaps Cologne, it is the largest city I have seen on the Continent. Many of the canals have some ap- pearance of trade. I observed many very extensive bleach-greens beyond the ancient ditches and works which surround the city. The walls along the canal of la Coussure are the most frequented by the inhabi- tants. . The cathedral is a handsome structure, and contains some beautiful carving. The church of St. Michael is also a noble and venerable edifice. There are many other handsome churches amongst the number which the city contains, and I do not recollect ever to have been in a place where there are such a number and x'ariety of chimes. The town-house is an extremely large and hand- some building, in the ancient taste, as indeed are most of those in the Netherlands. The city contains many elegant private houses. The streets are remarkably clean and spacious, but the want of an adequate popu- lation is very perceptible. Here is a good public library, and the Botanic Garden is considered as the 225 best in the Netherlands. The prison built by the Em- press Maria Teresa is well worthy of a visit ; and the stranger cannot fail of being* struck with the extreme activity and industry which prevails within its walls. Every thing seems conducted much in the same man- ner, of which I had occasion to notice the advantages at Vilvorde. There is a theatre , but those who have lately arrived from Brussels or Lisle will not be much struck with the merits of the performers. From Gand to Ostend and Dunkirk there are no public conveyan- ces, except along the canals. This mode of travelling I was not inclined to adopt ; and hearing that the road by Lisle, although thirty miles longer, passed through a finer country, I determined to proceed that way. I did not hear a favourable account of Ostend ; and, not- withstanding the peace, above a third of the houses were said to be untenanted. Bruges has neither river nor fountain, but abundance of stagnant canals and reservoirs. The word Bourse, as designating the place where merchants assemble to transact business, had its first origin from a house at Bruges, then be- longing to the family of Van der Bourse, opposite to which the merchants of the city used to meet daily. As the road between Ghent and Lisle did not claim any minute survey, and as I had been satisfied with the trial I had before made of a diligence in their country, I engaged a place for Lille for the next morning. I was awakened, long before day-break, by the noise of packing in the carriages in the yard, and by the vo- ciferations of several Frenchmen in the house, who 224 seemed to exert their lungs more than the occasion required. I was not sorry to see them set off in a dif- ferent carriage from that in which I was to proceed, as their extreme noise would have been tiresome. I had not to complain that my companions made an unneces- sary defense de parole. They were, I believe, all Flemish. One of them prided himself on being able to speak a little English, which he said he could read perfectly, and pulled from his pocket " The Vicar of Wakefield," which, he assured me, he admired ex- tremely. I have, on many occasions, in Germany, been in company with persons who were more desirous of beginning a conversation in English, than able after- wards to continue it ; but in general I have found that the English make less allowance for the want of pro- ficiency of foreigners in their language than foreigners do for our ignorance of theirs. On one occasion, at a table d'hote, a person who sat near me pointed out a gentleman at some distance, and observed that it would be impossible to please him more than by giving him an opportunity of speaking English, as he valued him- self much on his knowledge of that language. He was not long without finding the opportunity he sought for, but not the approbation which he had probably ex- pected. But to return to the diligence. The rest of the pas- sengers being lethargic after dinner, an elderly lady and I had the conversation to ourselves. She com- plained frequently of her poor bonnet, which, from its extraordinary elevation, (having to all appearance an- 225 tiquity to boast of) was frequently forced in contact •with the top of the carriage by the roughness of the pavement. I told her, I had heard that the bonnets at Paris had been much reduced in point of height, and that perhaps something between the French and Eng- lish fashions would in time be generally worn. But although she had to complain of the inconvenience arising from the unnecessarily large dimensions of her head-dress, she expressed a hope that no such reduc- tion might take place, as the English bonnets were in her opinion so extremely unbecoming, that she should much regret any bias in the French ladies towards such an innovation. The pavement on which we travelled was rendered very necessary by the weight of the carriages, which would soon make the road impassable. The country resembled the rest of Flanders. I observed a greater number of sportsmen than I had yet seen, well provi- ded with dogs, ranging a country which is too thickly inhabited to abound in game ; and I have seidom seen a district wnere tliere are fewer birds of any kind. Courtray is a large and handsome town. Here I ob- served some large dogs employed in drawing small carts, a custom very general in Holland. The town- house bears an inscription, indicating that it was erected by the senate and people of C our tray ; a style lately used by all the cities of Germany whicu depend- ed on the empire, however inconsiderable they had become in the course of years. There are many beg- gars here, although the town and neighbourhood exhi- 226 bits more industry than I had observed since I left Antwerp. At Courtray and Menin the garrisons are English, and a little beyond the last named place we entered France. The boundary stone was pointed out to me as curious, from having escaped unnoticed during the revolutionary times, as it bears the royal arms of France on one side and those of Austria on the other, and after a series of eventful years, it serves again to point out the ancient and legitimate limits of France. We were detained above an hour at the custom-house, as the diligence was heavily laden, and all merchan- dize, as well as the baggage of the passengers, was examined with minute attention. The tax was however only on the patience, the purse not being diminished by any claim from the offi- cers, who were extremely civil in assisting to arrange what their search had convinced them not to be illegal. Our passports were not demanded until we reached the out-posts of Lille, and we were not long detained, as every thing was satisfactory. I was told that a few days before, two English travellers not being provided with sufficient passports, were taken out of the dili- gence, and conveyed under an escort into Lille, where they were next day recommended to return to Eng- land, and provide themselves with proper passports. Lille is the capital of French Flanders, and the chief place in the department du JSTord ; it is one of the hand- somest and best built cities of France, as well as the stron gest fortified. The citadel especially, is consider- 22? ed as the chefd'ceuvre of the celebrated Vauban, this place having been one of the most important fortresses on this side of France ; it has again become so, although far removed from that line which a _ t%» satiable ambition would have established as the boundary of France ; and which included nations not desirous of the union. The population of Lille is estimated at 61,500. It contains many manufactories, which a period of tranquillity will probably restore to their ancient prosperity. Many of the streets here reminded me of Paris. The cathedral is a handsome building, as are also the exchange, the theatre, and the porte royale. The barracks are large and spacious ; and there being generally a large gar- rison, the theatre is well attended, and the performers superior to those in most provincial towns. I was told by a gentleman who has resided here for some time, that there are few towns in France which exceed this in point of agreeable society. He had two letters of introduction on his arrival, and found no difficulty in enlarging the circle of his acquaintance. He added, that many English had settled here for the sake of economy ; and it certainly is cheaper than most of the great towns of Belgium. I had much reason to be satisfied that I took this road to Calais, instead of going by the canals, as the country was much diversified, and the view from Cassel was one. of the most striking and extensive that I had ever seen. Notwithstanding that the month of No- vember is not calculated for seeing a country to advan- tage, some of the richest and best cultivated provinces 228 of France and Flanders are discovered from this com- manding- situation. The scene is bounded on one side by the sea, and on the other by the mountains of Hai- nauit. Those who are acquainted with tiie country- assert that from Cassei you can see thirty towns or considerable villages, of which seventeen are fortified. Cassei itself is by no means remarkable ; it was at one time a place of great strength, but its fortifications have gone to decay, although its situation must always render it a strong position. After a considerable de- scent on leaving Cassei, we arrived in the plain, which extends to the coast, with but little variation. It is fertile in corn and produces hops. There are several rich pastures and a tolerable proportion of wood. Tins day we travelled entirely in the department du Nord, where the roads are much attended to. I observed a few country houses, and a chateau of General Van- damme. Berg is a considerable town, but badly situated ; the country from thence to Dunkirk is a flat and marshy plain, resembling those extensive tracts which occupy a large proportion of the counties of Cambridge and Lincoln. It abounds with canals and drains, which in some places are higher than the fields, but this unin- teresting district feeds large herds of cattle, and is in many parts well cultivated. One of the chief canals leading to Dunkirk runs parallel with the road for a great distance, its banks are planted with trees, which have a stunted appearance, owing probably to their proximity to the sea. I observed on the canal several 229 boats laden with the produce of the country, as well as the stage boats. Dunkirk is well built, and the streets being spacious it makes a favourable impression on the mind of the traveller, who is perhaps more liable to the force of a first impression than most others. Some of the churches and public buildings are hand- some, and the number of inhabitants is estimated at 22,000. Its name is said to originate from a church built here by the Duns in 646, and in Flemish its name signifies the church of the Duns. There is much similarity between many words in the English and Flemish, but the latter cannot claim the praise of agreeableness. It is endeavoured by a proclamation of the Prince Sovereign to restore the Flemish language in all pub- lic acts and pleadings at law, to the exclusion of the French, which during the union of Belgium with France, was alone allowed to be used, and pains were taken that in all schools the French language only should be taught. But it is a difficult task, to over- come the partiality of a people for their ancient dialect, and the Flemish language is still used by the lower classes even in those parts of Flanders which have been united for above a century to France. At this day the difference between the two nations is not alto- gether done away. The scheme of again uniting Belgium and the left bank of the Rhine to France, is here perpetually intro- duced. The French talk of the oppressed state of the Belgians, and of the vast number of ordinary, extraor- w 230 dinary, and indirect imposts to which they are subject, and conclude that they must wish to become again the subjects of France, as if they would by that means escape taxation. That they would rather be subject to the mild government of Louis XVIII. than to the oppressive tyranny of Buonaparte, I can easily con- ceive ; but is it unnatural that they should be desirous of existing as an independent nation, under a govern- ment of their own ? Yet were it ascertained beyond dispute, that the wishes of the Belgians are such as the French represent them, surely the general interests of Europe, and the preservation of that balance of power so essential to its permanent tranquillity, would forbid the further extension of France, which might again reassume that preponderance which it has cost the other powers so much to reduce. I am, however, in- clined to think, that the wishes of the Belgians are not such as they are represented ; but the French knowing a little, presume a good deal, and so jump to a con- clusion. The merchants here seem to expect that their city will obtain the privileges of a free port, which have been lately granted to Marseilles, but upon what grounds their hopes are founded, I did not distinctly understand. Dunkirk was at one period subject to England; be- ing taken in 1658, it continued an English garrison until sold by that needy monarch Charles the Second, to Louis the Fourteenth, in 1662. The odium of this transaction was one of the causes of the disgrace of that 231 great statesman, Lord Clarendon, and a house which he was then building obtained the popular appellation of Dunkirk House. In the possession of so enterpri- sing and ambitious a sovereign as Louis, Dunkirk be- came so formidable by its fortifications, that the demo- lition of them was deemed essential to the interests of England, and was accordingly insisted on by the Treaty of Utrecht, 1713 ; but by the treaty of 1783, the article against its being fortified was annulled, and although several works have been constructed since that period, it has by no means re-assumed its former strength. From Dunkirk, I proceeded to Gravelines, which, al- though inconsiderable as a town, is strong as a fortress, since the flat country which surrounds it may be laid under water to a great extent on the approach of an enemy. The market-place is spacious, but overgrown with weeds. I observed that it still bears the name of the Place de la Liberte, and a street which communi- cates with it is designated Rue d V Egalite. The title of the market-place is more applicable to the present than to the former state of France. ; that of the street cannot long exist in any country, for the maxim tells us, " that all men are by nature unequal '," and the attempt to render them equal has been often compared, in point of absurdity, to the labours of Pro- crustes. An equal right to justice is all the equality that can subsist in civilized society, consistent with the liberty, firoficrty, and personal security of individuals, which would be perpetually violated by a system, to preserve which, it would be requisite continually to 232 Lake from the acquisitions of the industrious, to give to ihe idle and the profligate. It is possible that the ex- perience of the last twenty years may not have produ- ced as full a conviction as might have been expected on the minds of the French ; but it cannot be supposed to have been altogether unheeded by them. I found at Gravelines a diligence, which I think the cheapest land conveyance I ever met with. It runs from Dunkirk to Calais (about twenty-five Eng- lish miles) for three francs. It carries six passengers, and performs the journey in about five or six hours. It is the spirit of opposition which has so advantage- ously for the public reduced the price, which used to be double, and which will probably, in a little time, rise one franc more. The country between Gravelines and Calais is as uninteresting as can be conceived. The ground is shewn where Edward III. of England had his camp during the memorable siege of Calais. This town continued to be possessed by England until the reign of Queen Mary, (being the last place in France proper which remained of the numerous territories once pos- sessed by England), and its loss is said to have greatly afnicted her majesty. The fortifications of Calais are kept in tolerably good repair. I found that for three days previous to my arrival, no vessel had been able to sail, owing to the contrary winds and the violent agitation of the sea. Two vessels had been wrecked by these storms, but nearly all the crews were saved. In the evening I visited the theatre, and was sorry to 233 observe, that a sentiment introduced into the perform- ance, expressive of satisfaction at the peace between France and England, excited much disapprobation from the officers present. The jealousy which prevails against the English in France is very striking, after the. cordiality with which they are received in Germany. It seems to be the Englishman's fiurse alone that com- mands a certain interested assiduity, which they take care shall be amply remunerated. The port of Calais presented no appearance of ac- tivity, the transports which filled it on my first arrival having long disappeared. After being detained one day, I was glad to hear a bustle in the hotel at an early hour next morning, and perceiving that the wind had become more favourable for England, I hastened on board the packet, in which my landlord had engaged me a place ; the price I found was now reduced to half a guinea. I had procured the day before a suffer- ance for the embarkation of myself and baggage. Our captain and crew were French, and the vessel was not in the neatest order. Two other packets sailed at the same time, but arrived in Dover before us. All were full of passen- gers, owing to the weather having been long unfa- vourable for sailing. We had on board forty-six pas- sengers, amongst whom were several Frenchmen, who again gave me occasion to remark the loquacity of their nation ; and they only agreed with La Fontaine in the former part of the line, where he says, " II est bon de parler, et meilleur de se taire ;" 'Tis good to 234 sfxeak) but better to be silent. Our passage was ex- tremely rough ; but after twelve hours sailing, we entered the port of Dover, and I felt great pleasure in finding myself again in a country, which had only risen still higher in my estimation, from the compari- son I had been enabled to form between it and the other countries I had visited. THE END- ,-7