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 NEW YORK: 
 
 DEWITT 0. LENT & CO., 
 451 BROOME STREET. 
 
 1871. 
 

TO MY FKIEND 
 
 OGTAVIUS A. ROGERS, 
 
 OP 
 
 r>OSTON, 
 
 THIS VOLUME 
 
 IS MOST RESPECTFULLY 
 
 DEDICATED. 
 
*' Where rose the mountains, these to him were frienda, 
 Where rose '?.c ocean, thereon was his home ; 
 Where the blue sky and glowing clime extends, 
 He had the passion and the power to roarn 
 The desert, forest, cavern, breaker's foam. 
 Were unto liim companionship ; they spoke 
 A mutual language, clearer than the tone 
 Of his laud's tongue, which he would oft forsake 
 For Nature's pages, glassed by sunbeams on the lake." 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 "When a man's tliouglits go a wool-gatbering, it is as when a 
 bird, flying tliroiigli tlie air, drops seeds wliicli first liaving 
 picked up by the beak, sbe conveys by morsels into ber 
 mouth to lodge them for mastication in her crop, where, if she 
 were a beast, they would go through a process of rumination, 
 which might be called, " chewing her soft solace of sweet and 
 bitter fancies." Thence, after a proper gestation and quick 
 absorption for her support, she lets them fall towards the earth, 
 and whilst they are descending, they are most likely to be scat- 
 tered over a soil far remote from the fields where she had first 
 gathered them as food. These were not lost, however, surely not 
 wasted, for there is nothing thrown away as useless by a kind 
 Providence. In her flight through the heavens, said vagabond 
 bird may have flown over a vast range of territory, and though 
 she may have thus become a Avanderer, still she may, by such 
 a coupsing, have been prolific in fruits to be gathered by others 
 for their better improvement and profit, and thereby improving 
 
VI PEEFACE. 
 
 the Proverb in tliis lesson, so tliat " the curse causeless shall 
 not come to her." 
 
 So it may happen to any author who has the assurance tc 
 profess, before a discerning public, that he is producing 
 " things unattempted yet in prose or verse ;" for sensible peo- 
 ple would surely " write him down as an ass," at the bottom 
 of his first page. Let him not think to construct any moon- 
 shine through any such stone wall as his thick skull might 
 encounter from this vain attempt through the simplicity of so 
 stubborn a thought. 
 
 " TIio world has grown too old a bird to be caught with chafif." 
 
 So the best plan for a writer is, not to consider honesty as a 
 mere policy, but to be frank in his jjrinciples, " for men are 
 very shrewd in this world, and as wise as serpents, although 
 they seem sometimes to be as harmless as cooing doves," and 
 be not like the old fellow in the " trade of the whisk brooms, 
 who had been chuckling over his rival, boastilig of his choapoi 
 sale of the same stufl", he had only been thieving the stalks of 
 this brush-corn from the fields, thinking thus to get ahead of 
 his companion, who, in answer, confessed that he had stolen a 
 march on the merchants in general, by stealing the Avhole 
 broom from their stores." 
 
 We therefore scout the idea of getting out " something new 
 under the sun," and own up to some cribbage of fine wheat 
 from the old fields of literature, and then make a bold stand 
 on the good intentions which shall support us as a bulwark for 
 
PREFACE. Vll 
 
 our "Drift Thouglits." For there are drifts of many kinds, 
 " from the sea to the summit : " there are snow-drifts and 
 wood-drifts, and drifts from the sea, and these as wide apart aa 
 the heavens are from the earth ; and such are not so far apaii 
 as some people imagine, for they are as transferable and con- 
 vertible as stocks are, and stores, when we arc moving about 
 from one to the other. We all can find 
 
 " Tongues in trees, books in the running brooks, 
 Sermons in stones, and good in everything." 
 
 Shakespeare's " .4s You Like i<." 
 
 Now with this simple explanation, 
 
 "That we sliall nothing extenuate, nor aught set down in maUce," 
 
 we close this the seventh Envoie of our fardels of sketches, 
 which Avere bundled up in our large portfolio while we were 
 moving in the past from the end of Cape Cod across to Nan- 
 tucket, and a long time since to the Falls of St. Anthony, near 
 St. Paul's ; reaching back from a period of time extending 
 over twenty years, and gathered at various places as wide apart 
 as the wish of making a name in History is farther from the 
 thouglits which have been drifting through our memory, during 
 many years, at different intervals of time. 
 
 Farewell. 
 
DRIFT THOUGHTS-AVIDE Al'ART. 
 
 €l)aptcv 1. 
 
 " They, who think nought so strong of the romance, 
 So rank knight-errant as a real friend." 
 
 Young. 
 
 It AVcas dreadful hot, you all remember, last July. "Take any 
 of the Sound boats for New Bedford, Massachusetts. Board can 
 be had there at a reasonable price at the Parker House ; a steamer 
 1^ runnmg every other day to Edgartown, Martha's Vineyard 
 At this island the air is delightfully cool and pleasant; fishin<r 
 remarkably fine, and Nantucket is not far distant; " said Cap"- 
 taui Ilodgkms to us, on the 16th of said July, 18— as the 
 perspiration was pouring out of the forehead of a scribblino- law- 
 yer as he sat at his desk in Wall street. " You had better°pack 
 up and be off; it won't pay for you to stay here while vour 
 chents are absent at the watering-places. Go, then, to either 
 place and cool off." 
 
 We took his advice, and on that very afternoon started off in 
 the Norwich and Worcester boat. The heat did not abate a 
 jot, until we had passed through Ilurlgatc, and the sunset 
 gilded the scone with its departing splendor. 
 
10 DIIIFT THOUGHTS — ^VIDK APART. 
 
 We were travelling alone ; but it was always our luck to pick 
 up a stray fellow-sufterer in tins pilgrimage of life, for there ia 
 always a time in the history of every individual when one 
 becomes vagabond in the classical sense ; that we are all wan- 
 derers over the wilderness of existence, but may plant our mile- 
 stone as we go along, in the shape of memorial tablets; and to 
 save us from an Irish bull under the above solecism, Ave quote 
 the old saying that one of the pleasures of solitude is the pri- 
 vilege of having another to enjoy the delight of it with us. 
 
 A practical geologist happened to attract our attention shortly 
 after we had passed the islands beyond Fort Schuyler, whose 
 business it Avas to make a living out of his profession ; and so 
 he had a right to, like any other man of science in these days, 
 to be paid for his learning. He had studied the lesson taught 
 us all by our copy-books, when we were boys at school, that 
 " Knowledge is PoAver ; " and Avhen asked to investigate the 
 qualities of the minerals Avhich any speculator might have 
 called upon him to examine, he always got his fee in advance, 
 and then, as every honest man should, told them not to put their 
 foot in any dark cavity or pocket, Avhere he Avas convinced from 
 the bearings that they could not withdraw it Avithout loss. He 
 never told them to "go into it ; " never said, '• 'Tis a good thing 
 — 'twill make a splendid investment." He was too true for that, 
 and had a conscience (a rare thing noAvadays) that Avould not 
 stretch like india-rubber. Although he had been born in the 
 land of Avooden nutmegs, he could not be hired by the devil to 
 rob the Avidow and the orphan by any promises of dividends 
 from The Conjoint Stock Conglomerated Company, for making 
 a fortune in a fcAV minutes, presided over by the " Honorable, 
 late Senator Blundercomb from the county of Buncombe." 
 
 That was a pleasant talk Ave had, Avhich embraced the real 
 value of the Iron Mountain, over whose Avcalth avc had both 
 
FROJI THE SEA TO THE SIMJUTS. ]1 
 
 ridden our horses and heard the metallic ring of the mineral 
 as their shoes struck the ground. 
 
 Again we were amused by his recital of several attempts to 
 rob him — while in the West he had been engaged in locating 
 lands at the principal office of the government, when he was 
 supposed to carry about him large sums of money — and of 
 his shrewd method of avoiding impertinent questions as to 
 the amount of means he carried in his saddle-bao-s. At one 
 time he responded that he never carried much about hia 
 person, but avoided the necessity by drafts payable to his 
 order ; and at another time, when he supposed there might be 
 danger from the occupant of the hotel where he was compelled 
 to stop at night, he managed to get a companion to sleep 
 with him, or to depart from under the roof of a suspicious- 
 looking landlord by an early start, before the break of day, 
 before the keeper had risen. It was quite interesting to listen 
 to the providential escapes that he had made, and no less 
 agreeable to hear him recount the discovery which he made 
 of a property in Baltimore, which had been long lost sight of 
 by an old emigTant from the Eastern Shore of Maryland, who 
 under the name of Brush, which was better known by its 
 conversion into Bush by his neighbors, and thus covered 
 the evidences of his title to the estate, that it stood according 
 to the best of his recollection since his boyhood near an old 
 tavern, whose sign swung under the figure-head of an Indian 
 Queen, supporting an ear of corn. This old pioneer had been 
 of some assistance to our friend during his journeying through 
 the West, but lie always refused any compensation for the aid 
 which he had cheerfully rendered him ; but after his return 
 home the recompense was naturally reciprocated by their care- 
 ful search of the records, and the repetition of certain tradi- 
 tionary accounts, gathered from an aged woman, who remember- 
 
12 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APAKT. 
 
 cd tlie name of this man Brush; and the location of tlie 
 domicil of a family which had lived in Baltimore many years 
 before his removal, which had been supported by the carpenter 
 shop Avhich stood near by this tavern with the sign of the 
 Indian head and ear of corn. It certainly proved that truth 
 that " 'tis a long long lane that has no turn ; " and the fact is 
 in life that the small favors rendered with the hopes of little 
 or no pecuniary reward at the time they were conferred, often 
 bring a blessing of God in his OAvn time, inconceivably greater 
 than the benefit given. By dint of the few links of evidence, 
 the title to Mr. Brush's estate was hunted up by the aid of a 
 lawyer in the city ; and after a proper season of the law's delay, 
 and patient waiting, the possession of the land was given into 
 the hands of the original owner. 
 
 Again it was our privilege to hoar from him as he narrated 
 an instance of the application of his science to medicine. The 
 case was that of his wife, who had been for some years an 
 invalid, and most of the time confined to her bed by a 
 tedious indisposition; after his return from the West he 
 found her in a very low condition ; so sick, indeed, that she 
 had been given up by the doctors ; in truth, he himself despair- 
 ed of seeing her alive much longer. Hope revived, however, and 
 he concluded that he would try what his own knowledge of 
 materia medica would avail in the piesent case, where he was 
 so deeply interested. In fact began by making a strange syrup 
 of aralia or spikenard (we can't vouch for our memory of his 
 account of it), Avhich was steeped in a strong admixture of 
 spirits and honc}- (brandy we suppose), and that boiled down in 
 a kettle, until it become as thick as mucilage, like a body of soup 
 basis for a professed cook. This was applied by little and little 
 to moisten the patient's throat, and was breathed into the lungs. 
 Then a bath was prepared with warm water, and into that a 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 13 
 
 portion of potassium with a dilution of nitric acid for stimula- 
 tion was poured, in which the body was placed, and circulation 
 excited by constant manipulation until a lively glow was pro- 
 duced. This treatment continued about a Aveelc, faithfully and 
 patiently applied. At the end of ten days, the whole of the 
 faiie was suffused Avith a slight color of animation and improve- 
 ment; by prolonging this treatment, and the application of 
 proper nourishment — say, beef soup redu'^ed and boiled down 
 in a bottle from the substance of the meat — the sickness Avaa 
 controlled, and at the expiration of a month, by careful atten- 
 tion and driving out in the open air ; at the end of the year, 
 this lady who had been pronounced dead at the consultation of 
 the wiseacres and physicians^ had fully recovered her health and 
 is alive. 
 
 Besides, he was a man of great ftiith, and had tasted the evi- 
 dences of the presence of that overruling Providence which of 
 old fed the prophet Elijah by the ravens in the wilderness ; 
 fur one time when he was in search of certain scientific phe- 
 nomena in the nature of the discovery of a red porphyry 
 quarry, which he had traced by careful observation of certain 
 little red pebble indications on the prairies in Illinois, bearing 
 north by west, which he followed across the Mississippi river to 
 the point of the outcrop, a band of Indians about the region 
 of their encampment stole all his provisions, and he was then 
 entirely without food. Just as his hunger had reached a craving 
 for necessary food, a large eagle poised in the air, and sailing 
 suddenly down, darted into a neighboring lake, where it seized 
 a large trout weighing four pounds, and was bearing it off 
 in his talons, Avhen he dropped it. This was taken by the party 
 and furnished a meal to this humble man of trust in God, the 
 Jehovah Jireh of the prophet Moses, who will provide us 
 also' in time of need. 
 
14 DUIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APAKT. 
 
 AVe were also deliglited Avitli otlier developments of his in- 
 vestigation in science ; and convinced, by the experiments which 
 had been tried by the late noble Lord Morpeth Avith animals 
 of divers breeds, that it -was possible in the progress of civili- 
 zation to improve the whole race of the human species. It 
 may be — and why not ? — if jockeys can so improve the character 
 of the blood-horse, and skilful gardeners increase the size and 
 quality of fruit, that in the course of ages men and women 
 may be so improved that there shall be a generation of man- 
 kind who, from their moral, intellectual, and physical condition, 
 shall be fit to serve the Lord, who originally intended such to 
 be created ; for it was declared at the time of our first parents, 
 Adam and Eve, that it was good ; our good Creator saw and 
 declared that it was good; and we hope to sec it better if 
 possible, notwithstanding appearances of the present age are to 
 the contrary. We have ever believed that sin is but a very 
 dark shadow thrown against the purity of heaven, and like the 
 diamond, can only be fully exhibited to light and briglitest beauty 
 by holding it under the deep sliadow of the overhanging 
 "Upas Tree." " JVous verrons,'''' as the old '■'•Spectator'''' 
 (Noah's newspajier) used to say. We pray you may live to 
 see it. Let us all in the meantime go about and be doing all 
 the good we can to our fellow-men ; for there is no truth surer 
 than this, for it is God's own truth, that Love is the fulfilment 
 of all righteousness, and the law has so declared it. 
 
 We friends occupied the same state-room that night ; and 
 this was the compensation gratuitously rendered by one party 
 for the delightful conversation Avhich entertained us, until we 
 were rapped out of a sound sleep by the night watchmen, as 
 we were landed at the wharf of Norwich. 
 
 It is not a very pleasant thing, you will find, to be routed out 
 at midnight, should any of our readers attempt to go by this 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 15 
 
 line ; and we recommend none to try it, for there are other 
 ways of going to Boston, by or through the Sound. 
 
 Now, what was it we intended to do when we had started 
 from New York ? It was to get to old Cambridge, a:id cast 
 our vote for the first ballotins; under a new order of things 
 at Harvard University ; which we did under the belief that, as 
 the worship of the Almighty should be enjoyed under the greatest 
 liberty, we could see no reason why students should not be 
 permitted to study what they pleased, provided always they 
 had any inclination to do so, or any brains to fill with tnow- 
 ledge : for it is as hard to pour knowledge into a blockhead, as 
 to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. 
 
€l)aptcr 2. 
 
 That education only can be considered as complete and generous, niiich (in the lan- 
 guage of Milton) fits a man to iierform justly, skilfully, and magnanimously, all the 
 offices, both private and public, of jJeace and loar. 
 
 "But thousands die without a this or that. 
 Die — and endow a college or a cat." 
 
 The old and liactncycd discussion, about wliat constitutes 
 education, goes back to the time of Adam and Eve ; and tlio 
 subject of tlieir grievances has caused it to be a noted theme 
 of dispute ever since. 
 
 Law is defined by Coke and Blackstoiie and Kent as a rule of 
 action ; the verb defined, to be, to do, and to suffer. Education 
 has been ever a foot-ball to be kicked about by antagonistic 
 pedagogues and pupils, on the Deltas of College greens all 
 over the world ; and Alma Malers^ from the beginning to the 
 end of all the Universities, have been trying to straighten the 
 odds and ends of Creation by a system of logical deductions 
 from the roots of that fatal tree of knowledge of good and 
 evil, whereof had our primogenitors ever partaken it would 
 have prevented all their successors from the enjoyment of 
 that blessed state of eternal happiness which even the devil 
 himself could not have foreclosed them had not the Archangel 
 Michael with his drawn sword shut them out from the sight of 
 the Tree of Life. 
 
FRO-M THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 17 
 
 It lias tlicrefore always seemed to us one of tlic greatest 
 Ijlessings that old Satan, in spite of all his temptations and snares, 
 should have been the means by which apparent evil has been 
 the pr.^curement of our ulterior good. Good by elision of the 
 symbolic 0, omega — sign of eteruity ; the drawing out of some- 
 thing out of nothing clearly manifested ; God in man ; God's 
 man ; man-i-fest in the flesh — Imnianuel — God with us in the 
 beginning : while the word devil raaketh its own resolution of 
 Evil into vile, devil, — ill, lie, livid. And read it backwards — as 
 letod by fusing i and u into to. The contrast therefore js as great 
 as light and darkness ; the darkness comprehendeth it not, for 
 works of darkness are of the devil ; and there is none good 
 but God. Education is nothing but the drawing forth of the 
 electric sj^ark of the human soul from the alembic of the 
 divine elements in man. 
 
 Educate the soul first, the body next, and then results that 
 rest of mind Avhich passeth all understanding, for all our 
 apprehensions then unite to draw us into God's acre of rest. 
 Judgment is but the natural result of all knowledge ; for with- 
 out God wliat can any of us know? "The word was in the 
 beginning ; and the beginning was with God, and the word 
 was God." Synthetically we were all intended to be taught 
 by Him. The Alpha, was and is, the primer and the begin- 
 ning ; and me-ga the end. The verb, was in the beo-innino; 
 to be, was God himself- — I am, to suffer, was— to do— was 
 God. He acted. He suffered as God ; therefore to be, to do and 
 to suffer was the Trinity — the God Triune, the man from God 
 to earth — the Incarnation of God on earth. The Sou of God 
 was with us. God with us, and after Earth is passed, the 
 ascended man-God ever liveth to make intercession for us, and 
 by the Holy Spirit draweth the man up to God who was in 
 the beo-innino; with Him. 
 
18 DRTFr THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 Tlic time will yet come according to the promise tliat all sliali 
 be tauglit of God. In the signs of tlie present day, events 
 which always go before liistory, foreshadow the day when the 
 ballot will be substituted for the cannon-ball ; for the lot is cast 
 in the lap of the people, but the whole disposal thereof is of 
 tlie Lord, 
 
 "Quern Deus vult perdere prius dementat," the late sad 
 conflict in the South has plainly shown, and this is no less 
 true, that " whom the gods love die young ; " for the Lord has 
 blessed the nation with overflowing benefits ; its proportions 
 have increased ; the metallic forces have been greatly developed ; 
 and the financial credit of the country have quadrupled 
 since, aye, even pending the war. This world's currency, like 
 the fore and hind wheels of a chariot, run, and always will keep 
 running apart, seldom asunder, but at equal distances with the 
 proportions of the riches of the interior treasures and of 
 the gold-bearing bondsmen. 
 
 The true stamp of our republican virtues has raised the value 
 of the Consol sterling]/ abroad. Paper money coined with the 
 image of the United States, has rendered " unto Ctesar the 
 things which are Caesar's, and unto God the things which are 
 God's ; " and proved that the greater the extension of a 
 country, and the more numerous its population, then the more 
 certain the wealth of its territorial domain. The only true, 
 solid ingot, is the honest gain of the laborer ; and those who 
 come in at the last hour will be equally well paid with those 
 who come in at the first. 
 
 The only species of humanitarianism is that which claims 
 absolute independence of au overruling Providence. One 
 would think, from reading the speeches of the wise men and 
 poets of the University, that the globe was governed by 
 pedagogues and poets ; Oliver has gotten his Eowland, and 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 19 
 
 Rowland lias fully discharged his bottle of Macassar. Never- 
 theless the hub of the universe wants a little more oiling. The 
 man who declared that this was a Unitarian war, must have 
 forgotten that victory never came until Grant and Farragut 
 and Sherman soldered their triple brass into the molten mass 
 of Union, and success blossomed into the full glory of peace. 
 The blood, of our heroes was the price of conquest ; and the 
 crown of an Immortal Life has hallowed the head of every 
 patriot who sacrificed his life for the good of his country. 
 
 Truly the blood of these martyrs was the seed of the Amer- 
 ican Chuich. The angelic choirs from heaven looked down 
 upon the blood-stained fields, and saints innumerable sang out 
 their pseans of praise, while the struggles and sufferings of the 
 dying were but shouts of triumph ; and hymns of thanksgiving 
 arose with every sigh to honor the reflection, that they were 
 yielding an oblation and offering an incense which was accep- 
 table to the Redeemer, who had purchased His cross at the price 
 of His suffering in order that the men who fell in battle might 
 learn why they had been born, and for what end; a truth which 
 was first manifest to them when they w^ere marshalled in the 
 ranks with their devoted companions, and had left home, Avith the 
 good old Spartan mother's prayer that their sons might honor 
 their shields in the contest, or be brought home upon it as 
 corpses, with their wounds in front. 
 
 Then men were taught the lesson that the post of honor is 
 not always that of the private citizen. The men who had gone 
 were our substitutes ; and when they died in the battle, they 
 who remained at home were taught to acknowledge a proper 
 sense of the gratitude to those who were our saviours, and 
 their scapegoats from the contempt of mankind as cowards 
 for all time. Let us go and do likewise v/hen our turn 
 comes to be in the fi'ont, and never let a coward's heart beat 
 
20 DRIFT THOUGHTS "WIDE APART. 
 
 in the breast of any man at his lieartlistone on that occasion, 
 or for ever leave the hope of any woman's smile behind 
 them ; for there is no entrance in that bosom which throbs only 
 for the brave, and is ready to shudder at the sight of any mis 
 creant traitor. 
 
 Enough has been said about Cambridge and her martial 
 collegians, who went out to meet the enemy from her walls. 
 They were fit topics for a euloglum, but not proper subjects 
 for either Commencement or the Alumni dinner. The mem- 
 ory of the brave lives in the hearts of the survivors, and the 
 sighs of the broken hearts, arc the only solace and support 
 which the widow who mourns her husband's loss, or the mother 
 her immortal son, who in their faith survive the bitter pangs 
 of that sorrow which the heart only knows, and with its J03- 
 the stranger docs not intermeddle. 
 
 They arc about to erect a Mausoleum for the honored dead of 
 Harvard. The structure is in its design a mongrel of Westmin- 
 ster, Oxford, Trinity, and of the Lord Mayor's dining-hall at 
 Cheapside. Athens never beheld a similar, Egypt might have 
 dreamed of a better, and the Argonautic expedition for the 
 Golden Fleece might have safely gone to sea in a vessel built 
 very much like the Cambridge ark. 
 
 Eeturniug to old Harvard, we are reminded of the original 
 diversion of this institution from the character of a Congrega- 
 tional denomination, in which it had been founded by John 
 Harvard. How it came to have been twisted out of tlie creed 
 of its progenitor, into the folds of a Unitarian shcepfold, is 
 best known to those enterprising Spartans who taught their 
 children that there was no harm in stealing, provided it was 
 never found out. Perhaps it was because the Laced3aio:u:iU3 
 knew what was right ; but the Spartans and Athenians practised 
 a nobler virtue, as in the case of the respect those ancient 
 
FKO.M THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 21 
 
 people exhibited to an old man, as to a seat in tlicir tlieatrc, 
 Avhen the pit arose in respect to his aged locks. Xevertheless, 
 it may be somewhat honorably explained, by the answer which 
 a friend of ours gave once to a Frenchman, on Broadway, look- 
 ing just opposite at the Church of the 3fessiah, who was asking 
 him : " What kind of a church that was before them, with its 
 heavy granite structure." He replied, " Unitarian^ " Oui, je 
 comprends," says the Frenchman ; " Unit d Ri^n,^'' " united to 
 nothing." Lately, however, it has been converted into a theatre, 
 in which a iliss Lucy Rushton entered with such a predilection 
 to failure, that the devil took possession of it shortly after 
 bankruptcy, as his legitimate property ; while she proving 
 so bad a steward, it was turned over into a renovated temple, 
 for the exhibition of another species of farce. Truly the " Old 
 Boy " seems to claim his title to all such hereditaments, and it 
 takes a '■'^ RistorV to restore the truly legitimate drama; as 
 he swings his own forked tail, with the ugly Black Crook. 
 It matters not, however ; for whatever may be the diversions of 
 his majesty, whose peculiarity has always been the habit 
 which distinguishes him, of running about the earth seeking 
 whom he may devour, there is a little angel who sits aloft 
 upon the mast of human affairs, to look out for the fate of 
 " Poor Jack." A proper restraint always comes in the shape 
 of amendments in the code of human laws, which have always 
 been so controlled by the divinity which shapes our ends, 
 that no power of misconstruction can ever cause a triumph 
 over the dominion of common-sense, which is the people's 
 voice ; and the expression of the vox populi is and ever will be 
 " vox Dei " to overrule his satannic majesty. The devil has only 
 been permitted to reign for a while ; and at the end of the 
 allegorical thousand years, which was prophesied by the pro- 
 phet Daniel, he will be bound in adamantine chains, and cast 
 
22 
 
 DRIFT THOUGHTS — "WIDE APAUT. 
 
 into that awful fiery tide of conflagration which stands in let- 
 ters of liquid fire before the gates of the infernal regions, with 
 the ominous declaration of the poet Dante : " Lasciate ogne 
 speranza voi ch'entrate," " Leave every hope behind who enters 
 liere:" and with all his minions and worshippers, drowned in 
 the Acherontic gulf of the boiling river Styx. 
 
Cljaptcr 3» 
 
 POLITICAL, ECCLESIASTICAL, OR SCHOLASTIC 
 AMBITION. 
 
 " Fond impious man ! think'st thou yon sanguine cloud, 
 Raised by thy breath, has quenched the orb of day? 
 To-moiTow, he repairs the golden flood, 
 And warms the nations with redoubled ray." 
 
 We were glad, therefore, to hasten away from the precincts of 
 okl Cambridge, and its everywhere-exhibited signs of a fossu 
 decay ; such as Agassiz himself, we fear, cannot cause to be 
 reconstructed out of the evident indications of its jiresent imbe- 
 cility. Even the change contemplated of doing away with 
 its system of espionage, and the treatment of youths as 
 proper subjects for the village police to night-hawk them ; or 
 the requirements of two years added to the period at which 
 the students have been admitted previously, at the age of the 
 writer, say, fourteen and one-half years, Avhen he was admitted 
 as a Sophomore ; or the enlargements of its buildings ; or the 
 superhuman construction of its two undergraduates, who may 
 have been good scholars, but never had any show of whatever 
 is requisite for architectural designs ; nor the contributions of Mr 
 Peabody, nor the Avhole College Faculty of learned Professors, 
 will ever help it so long as the whole concern will insist upon 
 
24 DUIFT THOUGHTS "WIDE APAET. 
 
 the keeping up of that autocracy of idiosyncrasies wliicli liaa 
 bolstered up its reputation as a first-class college ; nor all the 
 inhabitants in the neighborhood of Boston, to which place, 
 and its confines in Massachusetts, we know that its eternal 
 and everlasting praises are ever and forever sounded, and all 
 the people unite in sustaining it as one of the grandest Mutual 
 Admiration Societies that the world over saw — will save it from 
 perdition or the tomb of the Capulets. It will have to be radi- 
 cally changed. This tree of knowledge, situated in the midst 
 of a garden of bipeds, must be pulled up by the roots ; other- 
 wise, not even Professor Longfellow, or Professor Lowell, can 
 save it from a grave deeper than hell, and darker than the tomb 
 of the Capulets. 
 
 " Go, see with your own eyes, quam parva sapientia regitur 
 mundus." — Chancellor Oxenstierri's Letter to his Son. 
 
 AVhat a change was that from the purlieus of the river Charles 
 to the depot of the Old Colony Railroad in Boston, somewhere 
 near Green street, and not far from South, Near by, in the 
 outer yard of the main building, stood the celebrated Wood 
 Box, a dilapidated old car, which represented the majesty of 
 the Old Colony Railroad. Probably the noble Lord Sir Morton 
 Peto was highly gratified at his late reception in this singular 
 old construction, and from which he might obtain a large and 
 comprehensive view of the illustrious State of Massachusetts; 
 just as in the same way that old Blarney Stone, Plymouth 
 Rock, is supposed to represent the landing of our Pilgrims from 
 the !NLayflower, on a winter's night, on a rock-bound coast at 
 (/ape Cod ; and the same has ever been made a mouth-piece 
 for old Knickerbockers, who became suddenly converted into 
 New England people on the 22d of December dipner at the 
 Astor House in New York. This conversion is no less extraor- 
 iiaarv than that of a son of Erin into a native American 
 
FKOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 
 
 25 
 
 just shortly after his landing at Castle Garden, and previous to 
 he election of a Mayor and Alderman, or Congressman or 
 Policeman in Gotham. 
 
 These translations, to be sure, are mere sportings with the 
 ;lective franchise ; and so long as you and I don't see it, is as 
 larmless and mysterious to the spectators as one of Hartz's 
 llusions, when he is supposed, in spite of your own keen inves- 
 igation to the contrary, to take off a man's head without the 
 lid of an assistant behind the curtain. 
 
 It is merely an ocular delusion ; and it will be all the same 
 
 o the people one hundred years hence — for " Seeing many 
 
 hings, thou observest nought," for " C'est la premiere pas qui 
 
 joute." 
 
 2 
 
Cl)aptcr 5. 
 
 When in connection with otLer matters, our friend the first 
 instigator of our trip towards the Eastern Islands, and others 
 known as the Elizabeth Islands, on the Vineyard Sound, suggest- 
 ed that you would have to get out of the regions of summer 
 excursionists, in order to enjoy a purer air and a more primitive 
 state of society than that usually visited among the mountains 
 and northern lakos. 
 
 We were, however, somewhat astonished to hear him say, 
 " You must get on by the Old Colony Road, to a place called 
 Ilyannis." This sounded so much like Hyenas that we were 
 afraid he was cracking one of his marine jokes ; but on further 
 inquiry, he stated it was only a spot known by that name, which 
 was the end of the main-land of Massachusetts — a point on the 
 extreme end of Cape Cod ; and that so far from the people being 
 wild or uncivilized — (to be sure there was a Avilderness of much 
 sand there) — they scarcely had seen a menagerie in those parts 
 (excepting you think a camp-meeting one), and most assuredly 
 no hyenas. In feet, there was not even a liquor store in the 
 whole extent of that barren country (where there is to be sure 
 a town called Sandwich) ; and if anybody wanted anything to 
 drink stronger than soda-water or root beer, he must go to 
 
FKOil THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 27 
 
 a licensed vender, after having first fortified himself with a 
 certificate from a regular State physician that the case was of 
 such a desperate nature that a portion of brandy would bo 
 rendered indispensable for the cure of some sudden and particu- 
 lar attack of sickness, like cholera-morbus or any other malig- 
 nant disease. 
 
 We were rather disappointed, as we were moving along the 
 road, that we had to stop short at the junction, near Middle- 
 town, awaiting the arrival of the up train from New Bedford 
 Most people are rather apt to get out of temper at any delay 
 that happens while on their travels ; but like Rochefoucault, we 
 always found " something rather pleasing in other people's mis- 
 fortunes;" and turned the matter into account, by recalling 
 the old Scotchman's saw, which reads : 
 
 "He that stumbles and don't fall, 
 Goes twice the further after all." 
 
 We occupied ourselves by conversing with one of the 
 Directors, who was then a passenger in one of the cars, who 
 told us that the Old Colony Road paid very well indeed, and 
 that the stock was considerably above par. He could not say 
 as much about the branches to Hyannis Point, or the enterprise 
 of the steamboat " Island Home," that had been put on for 
 the summer to connect with the Railroad from the Long 
 Wharf, at the extreme end of Cape Cod. 
 
 Shortly after we got on our way, we were amused by several 
 little occurrences that happened by the roadside. First, the 
 country people came out to greet the arrival of the train ; and 
 at every station troops of children hastened to cheer us with 
 their smiles and hurrahs. 
 
 Again, at Sandwich there is a large glass-foundry, from the 
 
28 DKIFT THOUGHTS — WIDK APART, 
 
 second story of which — for the time was about sunset — we were 
 hailed by about two hundred men and boys, who stood at the 
 v.'indow-sills, eagerly Avatching the crowd of passengers who 
 were flocking in and out of the cars. What a proper location 
 this was for the inanufoctui'e of glassware, where there was 
 such an abundance of sand ready at hand ! After passing the 
 foundry, the appearance of the sky just before sundown was 
 one of the most remarkable we had ever Avitnessed ; Ave had 
 scarcely conceived that it Avas possible for any painter to 
 have realized a depiction of the American Flag so wonderfullj'^ 
 true as it has been by Mr. Church, our artist, imtil Ave then 
 looked upon it for the first time in nature. There it Avas dis- 
 played before us, " as large as life and tAvice as natural." It was 
 glorious ; and the red, Avhite, and blue, Avere gorgeously reflect- 
 ed on the whole surface of the Long Pond Avhich lie in repose 
 of the sinking sunset, Avith the rich colors of the stripes and 
 stars glowing along the horizon ; for some of the northern 
 constellations were then visible, gushing forth Avith strong 
 eff"ulgence of beauty and touches of the roseate changes of its 
 evanescent and departing splendor. We have lingered in 
 Italy and felt the soft influence of the landscape at CA'cning- 
 tide, as the sun sank under the shadoAvs of Vesuvius. We 
 have repeatedly AA^atched and Avaited for those requiems of 
 dying day as the twilight lingered, until the stars foIloAved the 
 waste of the returning sunlight along the shai-p edges of the 
 pyramids, and through all the long courses of the Lybian 
 mountains ; and have been rapt in meditations on the scene, 
 until our thoughts had sunk away, under the crepuscule of the 
 blue-hung skies aAvay over, and across the lake of Winnepiseogec 
 at Centre Harbor ; but never before had Ave beheld a charm of 
 such soft grace and inexpressible influence to the grateful 
 outpourings of the soul, as the impression conveyed when that 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 29 
 
 splendid sky opened its treasure of richness and transparent 
 glory on the evening that it passed through this decade of July. 
 
 We could hardly account for the appearance of the Cohasset 
 rapids at this point, as the waters of a lively creek rushed un- 
 der a causeway through the long flats ; for we had bathed a 
 long time ago at Cohasset Bay on the coast ; and we hurried 
 by the town of Barnstable, after we had left one of the vener- 
 able Judges of this county-seat at his residence ; and shortly 
 after, about dusk, we were landed for the night with our bag 
 and baggage at the " White House " at Hyannis, There 
 we were put up in the attic, in choice quarters, with the rats 
 riding over our bedpost ; the room was comfortable, the host 
 very accommodating, and with the request for a drink of milk, 
 which was granted, we took our tallow-candle and went to bed. 
 On the next morning Ave took our leave of this solitary and 
 quiet village, after having walked over two or three miles of 
 its stretch along the highway, in view of the distant beach. 
 Prominent among the objects which we saw were the shipping 
 in its harbor a long way off, and some fishing-boats which 
 appeared in the remote horizon, the occupants of which were 
 then engaged in search of sharks and blue-fish. The whalers 
 had no longer any opportunity of sailing from this port ; but 
 an occasional whaling-ship sails from Barnstable, a short dis- 
 tance from this spot. 
 
 The gains from that pursuit have a long time since ceased to 
 be profitable ; and the inhabitants being most of them engaged 
 as whalers, which have been fitted out from New Bedford, 
 many of them going even as far as Boston by the trains to 
 transact business ; the men appeared to be all away, and the 
 village given up to the women. 
 
 About twenty minutes past 12 a.m. we walked across a ver} 
 dilapidated wharf, and took passage on the " Island Home ; " 
 
80 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 a steamer wLicli connects twice a week witli tlie trains from 
 Boston to Nantucket. 
 
 There must have been something very fascinating at the ball 
 which has just been given by a party of frolickers from New 
 Bedford the night before our arrival, in the Town Hall of Nan- 
 tucket ; for one solitary youth then on the wharf, apparently 
 a gay Lothario, had made up his mind to return to his home in 
 Boston ; but as a fickle mind, like a rolling stone, gathered no 
 moss, his memories were thrown back to the island, in that 
 spot where the smitter had smitten this victim so hard that we 
 found him on board the steamboat retracing his steps to Nan- 
 tucket. These watering-places are dreadfully dangerous places 
 for young and tender-hearted juveniles. It is only experts that 
 find out to their cost, Avhen too late to mend their own, that 
 some ladies' hearts are like the turtles' eggs we used to gather 
 near the wild, sweet strawberries under their beds of sand, 
 sheltered by the shady groves of the hickory-nut tree, not far 
 from the fresh ponds in Massachusetts, near North Andover, 
 which were so soft to the touch on one side, that they needed 
 only to be pressed on the other to wipe out the first impression. 
 
 " Perhaps she hath bhie eyes, beware 1 
 Or, she may have had raven hair, 
 But never be in haste to marry, 
 Or you may have cause to swear." 
 
 Translated from the German. 
 
 We never knew wnat became of the youth after he had left 
 the boat, but supposed he resigned himself to his fate after he 
 had landed, where we are sure he learned his lesson by heart, and 
 found out by sad experience, "that it is never too late to 
 mend." 
 
 On board the " Island Plome " we had an opportunity of 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 31 
 
 learning mucli about the situation of the spot we were about 
 to visit ; and were made somewhat better acquainted by meet- 
 ing with a clergyman of the Methodist persuasion, who had 
 been a pastor of one of the churches of this denomination some 
 twenty years previous. The appearance of the town, now 
 deserted, and separated from the rest of mankind by sand-bars 
 which had been formed by natural causes, such as one of many 
 which changed the course of empires, and lifted up whole con- 
 tinents, while it has destroyed others, had so altered the aspect 
 of the place that he scarcely recognised his old home. 
 
 The fate of Tyre and Sidon had been that of Nantucket. As 
 we passed the outer light, he was completely at a loss, at the 
 first sight of it, and did not know whether there would be any 
 of his cloth on the landing to receive him. We felt no com- 
 passion for him afterwards, for we heard that he preached in 
 the largest meeting-house in the town ; and so we set about to 
 secure our own lodgings at this seaport, if that may be so termed 
 from which the sea itself has departed, and left behind it only 
 Sciasconset, the only spot from whence you can get a good 
 view of the glorious old ocean whei'e, 
 
 " Down whose green back the short-lived foam, all hoar, 
 Bursts gradual with a wayward indolence." 
 
 Keats. 
 
 Obed Macy has written a very clever book about this region, 
 and it is supposed that if the Lord did bless the house of Obed 
 Edom for his keeping of the Ark, that this Obed, who by his 
 name must be a Quaker, must have been duly rewarded for 
 preserving the chronicles of. this island; for without his efFoi"ts, 
 it would scarcely have a name in any history of mankind. 
 
 It is better known, fortunately, at the present day for its beau- 
 tiful and hospitable women. They who were " last at the cross, 
 
82 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 and first at the tomb," have kept it alive to the memory of 
 man, solely because they have had the honor permitted them 
 by heaven of keeping up the religious type of the Church, 
 which has always been sanctified by the holy title of the Spouse 
 of Christ. 
 
 It has always had a place for divine worship. The oldest 
 church in America, we believe, was planted on Nantucket ; and 
 the inhabitants now point to an old time-worn and w^ell pre- 
 served wooden building, now standing behind the handsome 
 Methodist Church, as of the age of 200 years. The place has 
 no less than seven places for worship — Unitarian, Methodist, 
 Baptist, Quaker, and Presbyterians, and one or two meeting- 
 houses, and several charity schools, with an almshouse, a jail 
 and only two persons in it ; an agricultural farm ; a grand 
 sheepfold, where a great sheep-shearing takes place in the fall ; 
 besides a number of ponds, plenty of windmills, and last but 
 not least, a fine harbor for sailing and boating, and abundant 
 sport for those who delight in catching blue-fish and harpoon- 
 ing sharks — a merry amusement, in which the girls join in the 
 summer season ; or for shooting ducks and plover in the fall. 
 
 We would close our sketch with a strong picture of the utter 
 desolation of the spot. Imagine an island Avhere there are 
 magnificent views of the sea from the tops of the churches, 
 from the windows of the belvederes of the hotels, and the last 
 point of Massachusetts, the jumping-off" headland and light- 
 house at Sciasconset, which might be facetiously termed " Sky 
 on Sunset," the " ultima tkule " of the United States, the last 
 point, the end of Massachusetts — the hub of the world, so 
 declared by the Governor of the last summer. It is a sort of 
 Land's End — Johnny Groat's Land ; and by contrast, not a 
 " Gretna Green." There are old and dilapidated windmills, 
 without wooden ai-ms, but with shattered sails flapping about 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 33 
 
 to the wind, with one solitary wooden fish rack, whereon a few 
 fishermen stretch a fardel of blue-fish, which are caught in the 
 harbor and laid on these frames to dry in the sun. Then there 
 are sand-bars closing up the mouth of the port, as if a pad- 
 lock with a bolt and chain had closed its mouth with a lock- 
 jaw. The obstructions of the bars are so heavy that even a 
 ship's camel cannot draw a ship over the movable and ever 
 shifting drifts ; with one solitary ^^Teck lying at a long stretch 
 of wharfage, with one solitary derrick drawing a pile on a 
 broken-down wharf. A few of her OAvners on the poop-deck of 
 a ship were calculating whether it would pay to take the " John 
 Colford " to New York, and there put her up at auction, or sell 
 her there as she lies. A New York Yankee once found it profita- 
 ble to buy one of its houses, and remove it to the city of Man- 
 hattan on a speculation, at the prices now quoted for boards. 
 Here was presented an island homestead, where the grass grows 
 in the streets, and the people live on hope and bow down to 
 a delusion to believe a lie. Such is Nantucket as it stands to- 
 day ; and its many awful wrecks on the winter's coast, and its 
 storms, tell of her sad catastrophes. 
 
 Its people are sometimes in the winter without mails. We 
 have before said there is no lack of females. The winters are 
 severe and long. The sleighing is beautifully long and tedious. 
 There is a great difference of opinion about this amuse- 
 ment. Dr. Franklin said it was like sitting in an entry with 
 doors open, with both your feet in a bucket of ice-water. Such 
 differences make up the world, ^^ and all the rest of mankind.'''' 
 The coast is ice-bound, and all is sad and solitary ; but as the 
 song sings, " Some days must be rainy days," we say, " The 
 heart knoweth its own bitterness, but a stranger intermeddleth 
 not with its joy." But there is a consolation forall this ; when 
 the trees are bare in the fall, one can look up to the stars at 
 
34 DKIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 night tlirougli the branches to heaven. There are bright hopes 
 for us all in that distant land beyond the blue vault of the 
 golden-patened dome ; and it Avas on Patmos that Saint John 
 the Divine was in the spirit on the Lord's day ; that reve- 
 lation of Jesus Christ was given him by Ood. And God has 
 hidden His saints everywhere ; and though buried in the sands, 
 or on the dark deep caverns which the ocean bear, " there's 
 a divinity which shapes our ends, roughhew them as we will." 
 They are his people, though not seen by mortal eyes, and are 
 preserved with all the innumerable company of those Avho are 
 in communion with Him, and will be kept for ever until we are 
 all called upon to give our account for our works on earth; and 
 when he pronounces, " Well done, thou good and faithful ser- 
 vant," the angels and archangels will shout in chorus, with 
 cherubim and seraphim, 
 
 Glory .to God ia the highest, aud on earth, 
 Peace and good-will towards men. 
 
 Amen. 
 
rai^^^S 
 
 ^^M 
 
 ^j^^h, ^if/'^^ 
 
 ^^^JSS? 
 
 1 
 
 
 illl)aptcr 5. 
 
 "BOARDING-HOUSE 
 
 KNOWN AS THE 
 
 ADAMS HOUSE, 
 
 No. 48 Orange Street. 
 Famed for its Admirahh Location, Liberal Provisions^ and Mode- 
 rate Prices. 
 
 John "VVinn, Proprietor^ 
 
 GAT HEAD, HOLMEs' HOLE, THE VINEYARD SOUND, AND 
 NANTUCKET. 
 
 We never think of Nantucket but we are reminded of tlie 
 story of Jonah and the whale, with this difference between the 
 present and the past — it was a great whale that swalloAved 
 Jonah, but now there is a greater wail and lamentation that 
 so many " Jonathans " of the sea [i. e, the sailors and whalers) 
 have been cast upon this island, now almost unapproachable 
 by its shoals and sand-bars. Yet it still has its fine air and 
 pretty women (the summer visitors), whom the inhabitants 
 delight to designate as " scoons." 
 
 Shark-fishing and trolling after blue-fish constitute part of 
 the stranger's amusement during his stay. It is no less celebrat- 
 ed for its thousand sheep, that find rich pasture as they browse 
 along the j)lains which skirt the approaches to Sciasconset, the 
 Land's End of the old Commonwealth of Massachusetts. This 
 
36 DRIFT THOUGUIS WIPE APART. 
 
 is the onl}^ real watering-place on the island, and is much fre- 
 quented during the summer months by those even who have 
 houses in the town, and have also built handsome cottages on 
 the point, wherein hospitality is the common and long-esta" 
 blished characteristic and charming feature of the inmates. 
 
 But to return again to the topic of sheep. We are remind- 
 ed of a sheep story about a strolling phrenologist who once 
 visited this island. Some of the wags of the place — if I 
 mistake not, a brother of the same craft — tried to play off a 
 practical joke on this other manipulator of heads. They had 
 agreed that the professor should be allowed to examine a num- 
 ber of the elite of the town, provided he would submit to be 
 led into the parlor blindfolded before the subjects had been 
 introduced for his examination. Somewhat reluctant at first 
 to submit to such a condition precedent, he finally consented, 
 and one Dr. Shaw, who was passionately fond of music, then 
 and there introduced a splendid bellwether sheep as the first 
 subject to be tried. He Avas the one who had first proposed 
 this plot against his brother artist. The sheep was placed before 
 him ; his bumps were folt. " The creature has a \Qxy musical 
 development, apparently very stupid, large brain and very little 
 in it," quietly added the examiner. The doctor rather thought 
 he had made a mistake. The audience burst out into a hearty 
 laugh, and the tables were turned from the shrewd philosopher 
 upon the doctor. 
 
 The island of Nantucket was first discovered in 1602, by 
 Captain Bartholomew Gosnold, an Englishman who sailed 
 from England in search of a pla;itatio!i. Having fallen 
 in with tlic shore of Cape Cod, he pursued his course south 
 until he came up with Sandy Point, near Barnstable. It 
 being rather late in the day, he stood off to sea, and lato 
 at night came in sight of the cist end of Nantucket, now 
 
FKOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 3'7 
 
 called Sankota Head, the highest land in that part of the 
 island. There is no doubt that, on or about the fifth month in 
 the year 1659, the island was under jurisdiction of Ncav York. 
 Somehow or other these Yankees of Massachusetts got it away 
 from us, having first stolen it, through some mean process, from 
 the aborigines, who gave them their proper name of Yankfjeese, 
 which title has been theirs ever since. We were rather pleas- 
 ed, however, to learn the veritable history of the two islands 
 of Capawok, alias Martha's Vineyard, and the island of 
 Nantucket. It seems that these islands were once under the 
 rule of two grand sachems, one of Avhom having quarrelled 
 with his confederate about some wampum, we suppose, must 
 have killed his partner in command, for we find among the 
 children of an after birth, on the main land, the names of two 
 were Cain and Abel, from which, no doubt, we infer that these 
 Indians were religiously disposed, who took these names from 
 Scripture, as the Rev. St. Paul said of the heathens who were 
 found by him worshipping before an altar which they had erected 
 to " the unknown God." Whether this account is true or not 
 Ave do not know ; but we leam that one venerable chief, called 
 Snapoonoosa, was once in possession of the island, Avho wore 
 very large shoes, which filled with sand while walking along 
 the sea-shore, and after shaking them thoroughly to relieve his 
 feet from pain, threw them, Avith mighty and violent effort, 
 over across the water, and thus formed the coast of Nantucket 
 opposite. It is also narrated that he Avas in the habit of smok- 
 ing a huge pipe, and Avhen he puffed out a very thick cloud 
 of smoke he blcAv it outward to create the hea\'y fogs that 
 hano; over the entire region of the Vineyard Sound. 
 
 Be this as it may, Ave know there Avcre some daughters 
 among these people Avho sued their parents for their portions, 
 in the hope, we suppose, thut some day or other they might 
 
38 DKIFT THOUGHTS "WIDE APART. 
 
 many somebody or other (as in tlie case of Mrs. Thompson, 
 spelt with a P, known by the name of N or M). So 
 the sagacious parent, to get rid of that bother, gave Nan- 
 tucket to " Nancy" for her part, and left " Martha " the rest, 
 called " Martha's Vineyard." 
 
 However this may be, it was once a great place for whales, 
 which have been so simply yet beautifully described by one 
 of their own poets, who had himself wielded the harpoon and 
 the lance : 
 
 " Thou didst, Lord, create the whale, 
 
 That monstrous monster of a mighty length ; 
 Vast is his head and body, vast his tail, 
 
 Beyond conception is his mighty strength. 
 "When he the surface of the sea hath broke, 
 
 Arising from the dark abyss below, 
 His breath appears a lofty stream of smoke. 
 
 The circling waves like glittering banks of snow." 
 
 SCIASCONSET. 
 
 This village is situated at the south-east extremity of the 
 island, and contains about seventy houses. As a summer 
 resort, no place in the United States presents greater attractions 
 for the invalid during the warm season than Sciasconset. It 
 is not the focus of fashionable life ; but the fine bracing air, 
 the excellent water, and the unique customs and laws of the 
 place, are admirably adapted to refresh both mind and body ; 
 and no other such place exists in the world. 
 
 In front, from the edge of the steep cliff, the eye rests ou 
 the broad expanse of the Atlantic; and below, the surf rolling 
 and breaking, gives animation to the scene by day, and lulls to 
 repose by night. 
 
 IVora a neighboring eminence called Sankota Head, the eye 
 commands almost the entire horizon ; and further out stretches 
 
PKOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 39 
 
 the long Sandy Point, the extremity of which is martcd by a 
 lighthouse. 
 
 A view from Sankota Head at smiset can hardly be surpassed 
 in beauty or grandeur. The rich coloring of the sky reflected 
 by the distant waters, the distant outlines of the town, with its 
 steeples and busy wind-mills, the repose of the surrounding 
 plains, contrasted with the gloom which broods over the roll- 
 ing and roaring ocean in the rear, give rise to sensations which 
 can ho, felt indeed, but not described. 
 
 There are many points of interest in Nantucket ; and the 
 walks about the streets furnish many subjects of interest. 
 Also its Athenffium and Library, and collection of curiosities 
 which have been gathered by the exertions of some of the 
 sea-captains, who delighted to leave the result of their distant 
 wanderings over seas and distant lands unto this treasure-house 
 of curiosities, which is a pleasant retreat for strangers. 
 
 AVe visited the Orphans' Home, which had been established 
 through the exertions of a blind lady, who, having commenc 1 
 some six years since with thr^e children, has increased li.r 
 school for the instruction of poor children up to the number 
 of ninety. We cannot but express our indebtedness to the 
 many kind people who cheered us by their hospitality during 
 our stay, and recommend the Adams House as one Avhich 
 wins favor from every visitor, from the superiority of the 
 views, through the cupola on its top, to the spread of the 
 viands on the taole, which arc furnished in hberal profusion 
 for her guests by the kind-hearted, excellent MistrcssW inn. 
 
 Here follows this card, viz. : 
 
 Tlie subscriber has opened as a Boarding-House, the house 
 No. 48 Orange St. Said house was built, owned, and occupied 
 by that Avhole-sonled man and mechanic, Mr. John B. Nichol 
 
40 Diiirr THOUGHTS — wide apart. 
 
 son, at an expense of between $8,000 and |9,000 ; and subse- 
 quently owned and occupied by Barker Burnell, through whose 
 benevolence it received some tasteful additions; and more 
 recently by Captain Zcnas L. Adams. Said house is located 
 upon one of our pleasant and most elevated throughfares, atTord- 
 ing an extensive view of our harbor and adjacent waters, and 
 from the cupola of which can be seen the shores of our island 
 at any point of compass, or at sea as far as the eye can extend. 
 The patronage of a portion of the travelling public, and also 
 of the jicniianent residents of our island, is respectfully solicited. 
 Said house may be known by the traveller as the "ADAMS 
 HOUSE," No. 48 Orange St., Nantucket. 
 
 John Winn. 
 
 *' Tom Dunham has just brought up a couple from Edgar- 
 town," said the clerk of the Ocean House, on a bright noon, as I 
 had returned from a visit to the beach on the south shore, and 
 a look at the oldest church in Nantucket, if not in the United 
 States, which was moved to its present location, behind the 
 Methodist church, in the year 1C66. 
 
 It was not very long before my trunk was packed and placed 
 on board the Augustus Smith, of Edgartown. With two 
 hours' tide, aad a favorable wind, we were soon on our way 
 towards this town ; and the sail was very pleasant until we 
 reached about seven miles from the light-house on Cape Hope, 
 at the headland before the upper bay of the A^ineyard Sound, 
 having passed Musketoe and Tuckernuck on our Avay. But the 
 wind and tide, which wait for no man, changed as we tried to 
 cross beyond the head of Tuckernuck. AVe were battered 
 about by the " Rips," the wind and tide working at cross 
 purposes, and chafing our sides ; a lieavy squall struck us, 
 which had been threatening us all the afternoon, with the 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 41 
 
 double-headers and clouds of cotton bags shelving quite around 
 the horizon. We tried to get ahead — Ave went constantly 
 astern : it was of no use. No home at Edgartown that night 
 for us, and not much supper in the locker. We held a council 
 of war. Said I : "■ Tom, you are shipper here, and master of 
 this boat — I am but a passenger; " and round we went, taking 
 advantage of the wind that now favored us, and turning com- 
 pletely round, headed straight for Musketet Island, where we 
 were to spend that night. We had sailed to within seven 
 miles of our destination, and had to go back within seven 
 miles from the point wdience we had started at Nantucket. 
 
 Our boat was soon fastened to the shore, the anchor cast 
 and with a length of rope thrown over to keep her from 
 stranding we turned into a fisherman's hut, where we spent 
 the night, with a bed of sea-weed beneath us, taking our bags 
 of grasses for pillows. We slept very soundly that night, 
 after we had smoked one or two pipes to keep away the 
 mosquitoes and gnats. The moon was like a bright lantern 
 in the sky over our heads, and the stars did not forget to shine, 
 although Jupiter was flashing bright eyes across the horizon 
 at setting Venus. 
 
 We were up before sunrise, and after gulls' eggs for break- 
 fast. It was of no use, for we found them addled, after break- 
 ing five or six. So we walked back to take a moderate 
 breakfast, and turn in again to our bunks until nine o'clock. 
 
 A beautiful rainbow was smiling through the misty morning 
 when we awoke. But in spite of the " old salts' " 
 
 " Rainbow in tlie morning 
 Is the sailor's warning," 
 
 the day turned out fine ; and raising our anchor, we cast the 
 
42 DRIFT THOUGHTS — AVIDE APART. 
 
 boat adrift again, and started, witli a favorable wind, towards 
 Edgartown Light. 
 
 However, " there is many a slip between the cup and the 
 lip," and we found that it was of no use fishing for blue-fish 
 while the wind was failing, so we turned our head towards 
 " The Opening " before the lower harbor ; but the wind was 
 not strong enough to carry us over the surf, and drifting about, 
 we had to sail along the coast up towards the headland of Cape 
 Hope. We were a little relieved of our dulness, however, by 
 catching five blue-fi?h as we trolled our lines astern of the 
 schooner. In about an hour we reached the point near the 
 light-house, and rounded the cape, riding into bay. It was 
 rather hard for us to reach the upper harbor, and the sight of 
 distant Edgartown mocked us for a long time, for we had beat 
 about the bay, tacking several times, before we could head 
 straight for the light-house and wharf at Edgartown. 
 
 About four o'clock we moored the vessel to the quay, and 
 seeking the hotel, remained there an hour for dinner. AVe 
 were in a hurry to get to Gay Head, the great point of attrac- 
 tion in the Vineyard ; and finding the second keeper of the 
 Gay Head light-house was about to start for home, leaving be- 
 hind us only one or two reflections : that the bridge across 
 from the foot of the street to the light-house, which had been 
 built by the United States, was a very handsome place for the 
 ladies. And we hoped that in their evening walks by moon- 
 light across the planks, an evening performance from eight to 
 nine o'clock, it might not prove a " bridge of sighs '' — although 
 very like to Venice was this part — nor a bridge for broken 
 hearts. 
 
 We went, therefore, on our way, rejoicing that we had found 
 a driver in Mr. Pease ; and if any of the ladies of Edgartown 
 regret that we strangers should thus disregard their charming 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 43 
 
 attractions, we hope tliey will pardon us, and wait for another 
 chance of a visit next year. 
 
 GAY HEAD. 
 
 It is twenty-five miles pretty hard riding over the ways and 
 sands towards Gay Head, and you pass through New-Town and 
 Tillsburgh and Chilmark, passing by Holmes' Hole. When 
 you get to Gay Head you will hear about the Indians. There 
 are none of the old stock there now. It is a very mixed race 
 which hold the titles which their ancestors once claimed by 
 right of inheritance here, and these descendants, who are of a 
 very spotted and streaky kind, are generally a lazy set of 
 loafers. Impudent as coach-dogs, and with all the privileges 
 of nobles, they pay no taxes, have shore-bote and firewood for 
 nothing, and have their preaching and school for the asking, as 
 well as a right to all the fisheries in the vicinity, with all the 
 sympathies which the State of Massachusetts has for 
 
 " The poor Indian, whose untutored mind 
 Sees God in streams, and hears Him m the wind." 
 
 We leave the rest of Gay Head for a better description by 
 Professor Hitchcock, as follows : 
 
 "The most interesting spot of Martha's Vineyard is Gay 
 Head, which constitutes the western extremity of this island, 
 and consists of clays and sands of various colors. Its height 
 cannot be more than one hundred and fifty feet, yet its varie- 
 gated aspect, and the richness of its colors, render it a striking 
 object when seen from the ocean. 
 
 " The clays are red, blue, and white ; the sands white and 
 J ellow, and the ligniie black ; and each of these substances is 
 abundant enough to be seen several miles distant, arranged in 
 general in inclined strata, though from being unequally Avorn 
 
44 DRIFT TIIOIKJIITS — WIDE APART. 
 
 away apparently mixed without much order. The top of the 
 cliff is crowned by a light-house, which commands an extensive 
 prospect. Scarcely a tree is to be seen on this part of the 
 island. It is owned and inhabited by the descendants of the 
 Indian tribes that once possessed the whole island. This sp<jt 
 possesses peculiar attractions for the geologist and mineralo- 
 
 I have felt quite desirous of obtaining a good drawing of 
 Gay Head as seen from the ocean, but have never been accom- 
 panied thither by an artist except once, and then the wind was 
 too powerful to allow putting off in an open boat. All, there- 
 fore, that could be done was to take an oblique view of the 
 cliff, as seen from a high bluff near its southern part, which 
 advances several rods beyond the general surface. The figure 
 exhibits the northern and greater part of the Head, with the 
 light-house. And beyond this, on the right, an Indian school- 
 house, and still more distant cliffs in Chilmark ; while on the 
 left, beyond the water, are seen some of the Elizabeth Islands 
 and a part of Falmouth. 
 
 Every lover of natural scenery would be delighted to visit 
 this spot. There is nothing to compare with it in New Eng- 
 land, and probably not in this country. It corresponds well 
 ■with the cliffs of the Isle of Wight, on the English coast. 
 
 As it is extremely difficult to land with a good-sized boat 
 within several miles of Bay Head, the best way, though the 
 most expensive, of going thither, upoa the whole, is to take 
 passage at New Bedford in the steamboat, vvhich touches at the 
 other extremity of the island, where a carriage can be pro- 
 cured to go to the Head. It is to be regretted, however, that 
 the road for the last five or six miles is so rough and crooked 
 that a guide and considerable courage are indispensable. Not 
 less than seventeen pair of bars must be gone through. 
 
from; the sea to the summits. 45 
 
 At tlie Head travellers can be very comfortably lodged witli 
 an Indian by the name of Thomas Cooper. So far as I have 
 had intercourse with the aborigines residing here, I have been 
 very favorably impressed with their shrewdness, industry, tem- 
 perance, and general moral and religious character as a com- 
 munity. 
 
 Rains and gravity have so mingled the various sorts of ma- 
 terials on the face of -the cliff at Gay Head, that a cursory 
 observer would see no regular stratification ; and so it appears 
 in the figure. But the most careful examination which I have 
 made of the place results in the conviction that the strata here 
 run nearly north-Avest and south-east, and dip from thirty 
 degrees to fifty degrees north-east. Neither the clay nor the 
 sand are but rarely laminated. 
 
 I measured the horizontal Avidth of each stratum along the 
 beach, and applied the clinometer, where I could, to get the 
 dip. The colors were put on while upon the spot, and were 
 intended to give a correct idea of the cliff as it would appear 
 were its surface to be scraped off, so as to show the strata in 
 their unchanged position. 
 
 The following description will show the composition of the 
 cliff, beginning at the north end : 
 
 1. Soil and diluvium, several rods thick; 2. Diluvium, 260 
 feet; 3. Gray clay and lignite, 100 feet; 4. Reddish ferrugi- 
 nous sand, 100 feet; 5. Green sand, 50 feet; most of the 
 organic remains are in this stratum ; 6. Yellowish and dark 
 broAvn clay, 150 feet; V. White sand, 50 feet; 8. Clay with 
 lignite, 50 feet ; 9. Brown clay and sand, 200 feet ; 10. White 
 and yellowish clay with lignite, 300 feet; 11. Red clay, 110 
 feet; 12. Blue clay with lignite, 70 feet; 13. Red clay, 250 
 feet; 14. Brown clay and lignite, 50 feet; 15. White sand, 85 
 feet; 16. Red clay with lignite, 50 feet; 17. Yellowish ferru- 
 
40 DKIFT THOUGHTS "WIDK APART. 
 
 ginous conglomerate and sand, the lower part osseous, 200 
 feet ; 18. White sand, 265 feet ; 19. Light gray clay and sand, 
 66 feet; 20. Red clay, 50 feet; 21. Gray clay, 50 feet; 22. 
 White clay, 100 feet; 23. Gray clay with ferruginous conglo- 
 merate near the top, perhaps not interstratified, 300 feet ; 24. 
 White clay, several rods ; 25. Red clay chiefly, a long cliff 
 seen obliquely. The coast here curves rapidly towards the 
 east. The entire length of the section is about four-fifths of a 
 mile. 
 
 On our next morning we returned, after having taten our fill 
 of the glories to be seen at Gay Head. Its position in regard 
 to the main land, which stretches from the Head in the rear, 
 reminded us somewhat of Malta. 
 
 It presents one of the most beautiful views of the ocean, and 
 the whole stretch of the Vineyard Sound and the Elizabeth 
 Islands, with an innumerable fleet of vessels sailing before you, 
 on their way up and down through the sound. 
 
 holmes' hole. 
 We left about noon, and were landed in about four hours at 
 the hospitable Mansion House at Holmes' Hole, which is kept 
 by Captain West and his amiable lady. We were very kindly 
 entertained by this excellent family. He made us very com- 
 fortable while Ave remained, and as we look at our review of 
 this short summer trip, we say to all : Don't go to any fashion- 
 able watering-place to fry out your soul and feet, or to sigh 
 o'er the lost and bitter past ; but go to Holmes' Hole, where 
 the tombstones even are poetical : as for instance the follow- 
 ing : 
 
 " John and Lydia, 
 Lovely pair ; 
 John was killed by a whale, 
 Lydia lies hero." 
 
FROM THE SEA TO TUE SUMMITS. 47 
 
 "Jonathan Tilton, 
 
 Here he hes, 
 Nobody laughs, 
 
 Nobody cries. 
 Where he has gone, 
 
 Or how he fares, 
 Nobody knows 
 
 And nobody cares " — 
 
 written before his death, to be placed on his tombstone m the 
 Holmes' Hole graveyard. 
 
 The air at Holmes' Hole is pure and wholesome. The Man- 
 sion House breathes of the rosy bowers which ornament its 
 front door, and the jolly, hearty, cordial manner and reception 
 of the gallant captain will so fill your heart with pleasant 
 memories during the coming fall, that you will have only one 
 regret in the winter if you do not go ; and that will be, that 
 you have missed entering the golden gates of Paradise, or have 
 not been to the universal gathering of the saints Avhich comes 
 off annually at the Vineyard groves across the bay, just oppo- 
 site the Mansion House, where you had better sleep, if you 
 ■want to have a good sound night's rest, without bedbugs, fleas, 
 or mosquitoes ; which are to be found in great abundance at 
 every annual exhibition of the Martha Vineyard Camp Meeting 
 Association ; which we advise all the world to visit, about the 
 20th of August, or you may miss your chance should Bismarck 
 drive the Pope of Rome from the seat of his Catholic Majesty's 
 dominion before the end of 1866. 
 

 €l)aptcr 6. 
 
 " Holmes' Hole," so called from the fact that it was the 
 scene of a murder committed a long time ago upon an English- 
 man. He had traded with the Indians, who were the abori- 
 gines of this part of Massachusetts. There is not a doubt that 
 this shopkeeper had sold the natives some fire-water, which has 
 always had the same effect of making people crazy from drink- 
 ing bad liquor. They had been induced by this sharper to 
 part with their stock of furs and peltry for some very bad 
 whiskey, and were so incensed at him, having been cheated by 
 this scamp, that they crossed over the Sound in their canoes at 
 night, and murdered him in revenge for his meanness. Retali- 
 ation in similar cases has since followed some of their descen- 
 dants, and it may not be many days before a like retribution 
 may pursue the present islanders for their vacillating and 
 treacherous conduct towards our own people while we were re- 
 cently in conflict with the Southern (so-called Confederate) 
 States. 
 
 Witness the cases of the Alabama, Shenandoah, and other 
 neutrality adopted steamers, which were nothing but piratical 
 craft fitted out in English ports, manned by British seamen, 
 and sailing under the bloody ensign of the cross of St. George, 
 preying upon our merchantmen and committing outrages upon 
 the open sea unparalleled in the history of naval warfare. 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 49 
 
 Verily the Chinese proved themselves a more civilized and 
 Christian people in the literal construction of the text, " Do 
 •into others as you would that others should do unto you." 
 They shut their ports to these infernal rebels, and shunned them 
 as " the devil does holy water." 
 
 We close this tribute of indignation against these pirates 
 with the declaration of Burke, " that when potentates [such as, 
 for example, the Southern leaders] become traitors from policy, 
 the people will become rebels from principle ; " and leave the 
 subject for the mature reflection of the culprit " Jeff. Davis," 
 that the iron may rust in his soul in the dungeon of Fortress 
 Monroe. 
 
 Notwithstanding all this. Holmes' Hole is a very snug harbor 
 for a winter shelter, and it is one of the most delightful places 
 along the Vineyard Sound for a summer retreat from the heated 
 term of July and August. Protected from the winds, with a 
 genial climate, it contrasts greatly with the hot malarious cha- 
 racter of Edgartown, which is situated upon a lagoon, and an un- 
 healthy marshy soil ; but unlike said seaport, with its Venetian- 
 looking light-house, and its " Bridge of Sighs," this is a re- 
 spectable and proper village. There are numerous pious and 
 earnest residents dwelling at this point, and it is not tainted 
 with the immoralities and general looseness of that sickly mari- 
 time locality, where temptation stalks abroad in the streets, 
 and the syrens prey upon its visitors, and its lewdness, like its 
 fogs, hangs over it like an incubus. 
 
 We were very grateful that a benign providence went before 
 us to prevent us from its evil, and followed after us as we were 
 driven away from this seraglio, in the buggy which conducted 
 us that night to the hospitable mansion of Mr. Pease, the second 
 keeper of the United States light-house at Gay Head. We have 
 before dwcl£ upon the remarkable feature of this headland, and 
 
 3 
 
50 DllIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 proceed to state that on Monday morning we were prepared to 
 leave the " Hole " for the harbor of New Bedford. We return, 
 however, to notice a slight omission on tlie part of the Govern- 
 ment in establishing a light-house on a point of sand, where it 
 is of no possible use to the sailor, or anybody else, exliibiting 
 one of those curious freaks of the department of our marine, 
 who in this case have not even blundered into an act of gene- 
 rosity. The captains who liad been consulted, gave their testi- 
 mony that the proper position for the light-bouse would have 
 been on an island situated about midway of the current through 
 the Sound, where it would have been seen by vessels on their 
 approach from either direction ; for the north-east storms are 
 the most to be dreaded during the winter, for homeward or 
 outward bound vessels. Of course, their opinion was of no 
 use at all, but that of the contractor was significant. The re- 
 sult Avas, and is, that the light-house stands there still, on a 
 point of sand, neglected, solitary, and alone ; the light is out ; 
 vessels bound out are sure to run aground; there is plenty of 
 work for the wreckers; and the structure now stands as a 
 monument of the folly of a Government without a thoughtful 
 head, but Avith as many tails as an eastern bashaw, a sad me- 
 mento of the truth, that " what is everybody's business is no- 
 body's business." 
 
Ww^^^i3^ 
 
 ^^ 
 
 ^M 
 
 ^§ 
 
 1 
 
 ^^^^^^m 
 
 
 w^^^^^ 
 
 ^m^^ 
 
 
 
 all)aptcr Z 
 
 OUR TELEGRAM DREAM! 
 
 " But dreams full oft are found of real events 
 The forms and shadows." 
 
 Joanna BaiUie's ^'' Ethicold." 
 
 " AVe dream of what is about to happen." 
 
 Bailey. 
 
 But what distraction must have been bothering the mind of 
 the dreamer on the last evening that we slept at the Wests' 
 Mansion House. We dreamed that there was a vast expanse 
 of water ; the headland of a vast open sea appeared before us 
 in a forescround. Wc thought we saw a vast circumference of 
 low hills looming through the maze of vision-land. There was 
 an opening in that vista, and we were standing on a highly ex- 
 tended wire bridge suspended over the waters. There was a 
 flowing of running rills, dropping by a series of falls as it were, 
 of the like which appear to tumble from lock to lock on a canal. 
 We were standing on the bridge on one of the rafters, and the 
 magnetic liquid waves coursed through our veins as if we were 
 galvanized in spirit. By the side of the gateways, a short dis- 
 tance from the passages, there appeared to be a body of men 
 Avhose faces were familiar to us. Tliey seemed to be directors 
 of a large company interested in the success of a grand under- 
 taking which was now completed, and that they were congratu- 
 lating each other on the result. We knew their names at the 
 time, and addressed them, but they have slipped from us at the 
 
62 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART, 
 
 present writing. Some said to us, " Get off the wires ; tliey 
 will burn you ! " We did not seem to fear it, and replied so, 
 raying, " They can't scorch us, for don't you know that we bear 
 magnetic lodes ourselves ! " We continued as we were, confi- 
 dent of safety, and seemed to be moving down along with the 
 currents. At that moment some one addressed us by name. 
 We seemed rather puzzled. The voice called to us, saying, 
 " Do you know me ? Why, I am Hillis ; we were schoolmates 
 together at Wilmington, on the Brandywine, in Delaware." 
 We knew that was so, and thought it very singular, until we 
 turned round and saw a placard, placed at the end of the bridge, 
 and we read on it, " Four Hundred Dollars to Venezuela." 
 There the dream ended. 
 
 The next morning we were landed at the wharf at New Bed- 
 ford, and took a carriage on our way to the railroad depot for 
 Boston. As we were driven along, strangers who accompanied 
 us at the time, looked out of the window and read on a board 
 posted on the wall, " The Cable is laid." We thought of the 
 dream of the night before ; we recounted it to the woman in 
 the car as we rode along ; who now can say to us, that it is 
 no evidence of a providence as illustrated by dreams ? 
 
 Afterwards we were thinking how to account for the strange 
 apparition of the night before. Doubtless the old story of the 
 murdered Englishman, and the Indians scalping him, had some- 
 what to do with it. It could not be the product of a night- 
 mare, for we had not eaten supper before going to bed. Per- 
 haps it may have been that sight we had of a rich old fellow, 
 who had been led into the Mansion House to visit the family 
 in the parlor, guided by a bright youth who was then paying 
 him a visit ; for he was blind of one eye, like many other of our 
 rich fools in Gotham, who can't see out of the other, like the 
 deer at the sea-shore in ^sop's fable. The old man had come 
 
FROir THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 53 
 
 from New York to rest awliile during ' tlic summer at liis own 
 cottage, near the Herring Pond at Holmes' Hole. 
 
 That blind sinner, led by a young man, was not so likely to 
 fall into the ditch in which he subsequently was surprised, but 
 it furnished a picture, as we looked again upon them both, 
 while the moonlight lighted up their faces on the return home- 
 ward that night. 
 
 Just as this elderly Gothamite was passing along, carefully 
 supported by the youth, over the brick pavement before the 
 house (which Captain West used to call his quarter deck, 
 where he was wont to sit upon his wooden bench alongside of 
 the railing, and smoke his solemn pipe), this old gentleman, 
 old salt-fish, we might just as well name him i)zm-fish, proved 
 rather a torpedo than a "john-dory," because he did not seem 
 to regard the salutation addressed to him by one neighbor Luce, 
 a very worthy shoemaker Avho lived around the corner, but a 
 poor man, you may be sure, "who said to him, " Good evening, 
 Captain D. ; how do you do?" His reply, very short indeed 
 it was, and curt: " S-i-r-r-h, to you!" No doubt this lack of 
 courtesy towards the man at the Hole, rather disturbed him 
 that night as much as it did us. He thought it so very strange 
 that an old fellow-townsman, a former resident at that harbor, 
 should have become so changed and proud in consequence of 
 growing a little richer than himself, the cobbler, that he did 
 not get over it for one half an hour. The good old honest, 
 frank, and hearty sailor, Captain West, tried to soothe him, 
 and tried to excuse the manner of blind Captain D., by saying* 
 " Never mind it ; he don't mean anything ; that is his way." 
 The neighbor tried hard to forgive it, but it somehow or other 
 stuck in his throat, and out of the depth of his larynx bubbled 
 out in a murmur, " T would never have thought that the busi- 
 ness of shipchandler, carried on in New York, would have 
 
54 DPaFT THOUGHTS — AVIDE APART. 
 
 turned a fellow into a hog at Holmes' Hole, merely while he 
 was simmerinn- out liis husks on the Vineyard Sound." 
 
 It certainly did disturb us during the night, and this last 
 scene so affected our sleep, that it was mixed up with the para- 
 ble of " The Hogs " running over the precipice in their flight 
 unto the deep, as narrated in Holy Writ ; and the rapidity of 
 such precipitate movement on the part of the swine, depicted 
 amid the freats of a midnight slumber on a thick feather bed, 
 caused such a heavy perspiration, that our broken rest had a 
 great deal to do with the revelations conveyed us on the last 
 Sunday evening we spent at the hostelry of our landlady and 
 her noble Captain, on Martha's Vineyard. Verily we say tc 
 you— 
 
 '• Put not your trust in princes, uor in any child of man." 
 
 Also: 
 
 "Woe to ye rich men, for ye have your reward — on this earth." 
 
 And to the poor, we add : 
 
 " Your sufficiency is of GOD." 
 
ail)aptcr S. 
 
 " The talk 
 Man holds with week-day, in the hourly walk 
 Of the world's businpss." 
 
 Trench, p. 59, PavaNes. 
 
 While we Avere passing along the road to Boston, we were 
 struck with the remarkable appearance of several distinguished 
 personages, among whom was the Senator from Iowa, who had 
 just returned from the Peace Convention at Philadelphia, after 
 the rising of Congress. From his account, things looked very 
 favorable towards Reconstruction, according to the programme 
 of President Johnson on Reconstruction. For our part we 
 would desire that the nation should arise from the ashes of the 
 past, like a phoenix, rather than the image of the adversary of 
 all noble ideas, the devil. When a people cease to be mag- 
 nanimous, we fear there will be little hope for the future of 
 the human race. Let us then show the nations of the earth 
 that the American government can set an example of forgive- 
 ness of injuries to their enemies. Peace cannot be established 
 again on earth, until Love reigns supreme over the land, and 
 becomes the emblem of Republican nobility ; prejudice and 
 selfishness were intended to have been buried at the foot of 
 the Cross ; and Coleridge was right, when he foretold that the 
 day would come when both these should be considered evils, 
 and established as crimes on the statute-Looks of the world. 
 
50 DRIFT THOUGHTS — AVIDE APART. 
 
 We were not otherwise than pleased when we heard that at 
 the town of Taunton there was a negro lawyer practising at 
 the bar ; for we had never thought otherwise than as the 
 Avorthy old Fuller, that a black mauAvas only an image of God 
 cut in ebony ; and Ave seal this opinion by another saying of 
 that venerable saint in the Church, when he Avrote, that God 
 might have doubtless made a better fruit than the straAvberry, 
 but doubtless he never did. 
 
 Again, Ave noticed that at Taunton the Crockers Brother had 
 established one of the largest locomotive manufactories in the 
 country ; one of whom had caused also the erection of one of 
 the finest Gothic edifices for the worship of the Protestant 
 Episcopal Churchmen under their model form of service in the 
 liturgy. We passed on, on the continuation of the Providence 
 Railroad, and entered Boston depot about 12 o'clock at noon. 
 There we tarried about six days, and amused ourselves in 
 riding about the country in the vicinity of Jamaica Plains, 
 Milton, and throughout the Avhole range of the beautiful envi- 
 rons of Boston ; and after having remained under the hospita- 
 ble keeping of one or two of its kind and social inhabitants, 
 Ave Avere at length entertained Avith a picnic, which Avas gotten 
 up quite at a short notice, and very much saws ceremonie, at 
 Swamscott, one of the favorite resorts of citizens for their re- 
 creation and shelter from the hot Avails of this modern Athens, 
 
 We left the " Hub " on Saturday afternoon, taking the Fall 
 River boat for our return to New York ; and after passing 
 through a fearful gale on the Sound, and around Point Judith, 
 Avhich Avas very much quieted by the heaA'y 7'ain that fell dur- 
 ing the night, Ave Avere landed on Sunday morning before 
 day, and even Avithout breakfast, on that terrestrial spot of 
 Eden, which is denominated Gotham by some people, but made 
 more like Paradise by the Central Park. 
 
€l)a})tcv 9. 
 
 " Heaven does with us, as we with torches do : 
 Not light them for themselves, for if our virtues 
 Did not go forth of us, 'twere all alike 
 As if we had them not. Spirits are not finely touched, 
 But for fine issues. Nor Nature never lends 
 The smallest scruple of her excellence, 
 But like thrifty goddess she determines 
 Herself the glory of a creditor, 
 Both thanks and use." 
 
 " It is an ill wind that blows no one any good." So we had 
 a chance to think, when after resting a fortnight at our charm- 
 ing retreat at Bloomingdale, we began to think that there was 
 further need of a change of climate, for August was still pend- 
 ing, and the dog-days by no means over. " Better late than 
 never," was the result of what occurred to us when we had 
 first made up our minds to go back towards the east, and try 
 what Mount Desert, in Maine, would do for a heated imagina- 
 tion, which was more created by that prominent idea of our 
 fashionable existence, that there was no propriety in our being 
 in town, Avhen all the window-blinds in the Metropolis were 
 shut close to all appearances, and there was nobody on Broad- 
 way, to say nothing of the Fifth Avenue. In fact, the main 
 cause of our diversion was, that there was a fierce fire raging 
 on Broadway, which so obstructed the passage of the cars, and 
 the progress of the street passengers, that we were fifteen 
 
 3* 
 
58 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 minutes too late for the twelve o'clock and fifteen minutes 
 noon train for New Haven ; and we were forced to back out 
 and go down town. We then concluded (for necessity hath 
 no law), and we made a virtue of it, " that it was all for the 
 best," and so it proved ; for w^e started immediately after we 
 had procured one or two letters of introduction from the pro- 
 per sources, in order to reach the coal regions of Pennsylvania. 
 
 Pennsylvania! What thrilling emotions gush forth from 
 the sound ! It echoes almost a voice from the sylvan groves ; 
 and the old Quaker hat of Penn, its founder, seems to loom 
 up amid the troop of wild Indians, as he stood among the 
 assembled group of the aborigines, as his Treaty of Peace was 
 signed under the forest of oaks. Not less remarkable was the 
 picture, than that of its prototype near the old Charter Oak at 
 Hartford. No wonder that the city of Philadelphia became 
 entitled to its name of " Brotherly Love." It was but the 
 natural well-spring from such a holy source. 
 
 Such was the outburst of reflection, when our friend heard 
 that we had failed in getting on our way towards the eastern 
 shores of Maine ; and it was at his suggestion that we were 
 turned completely round by his remark, " You have had nothing 
 but salt fish and sailors and salt water in your last tour, and 
 we should think as much codfish as ought to satisfy you ; why 
 don't you go and take a look at the mines? " 
 
 Accoutred as we were, Ave started off that very afternoon 
 with our travelling bag, and have to thank him very much for 
 his advice. Now wc are one of the kind who are willing to 
 take counsel of a wise man, provided it is given with a good 
 grace, and softly spoken — but it must not be crammed down 
 our throats ; it would not suit us any more than 
 
 " A woman convinced against her will, 
 Is of the same opinion still." 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMiriTS. 59 
 
 " A horse I a horse I my kingdom for a horse I " 
 
 Shakespeare, Richard Third. 
 
 Well, we are off; the reader niiglit say, we are miglitily 
 glad of it, for you have been a long time starting. The New 
 Jersey Central has never done a more clever thing, than when 
 it stretched the line of its railroad over the neck of the Jersey- 
 flats, and reached out its long arms across the mud banks of 
 Communipaw, thereby making a suitable accommodation for 
 the butchers at the new abattoir, thus forming a part of the 
 Sanitary Commission for New York ; for it is the evidence of 
 all these gentlemen of the hull-ring, with whom we have 
 talked, that there never was a case of cholera where there was 
 a shedding of bullock's blood in their establishments. There- 
 fore this profession has ahvays proved to be a benefactor of 
 mankind, and become not less philosophers, from the fact, that 
 they stick up to the bull-ring, " fodder or no fodder ; " which 
 showeth sternness of character and gTcat tenacity, as well as 
 perseverance. The next grand undertaking or enterprise, to 
 which we are indebted to a Johnson, alias Jackson — and such 
 men as these always " take the bull by the horns " — was when 
 they crossed that Hellespont of Newark Bay, by a bridge a 
 mile and one-half long, with an expensive drawbridge to allow 
 the passage of vessels up to the city of Newark, where there 
 are thousands of Germans, and numerous manufactories for 
 trunks and saddlery, and the brewery for the very best lager 
 beer ; by which the Germans who drink thereof are turned 
 into Dutchmen, and become in consequence great swells, or 
 larger in their growth, and much more inflated in their 
 bellies. 
 
 Scotch Plains, about one hour's ride from the city by rail, 
 fronts the town of Plainfield, where the inhabitants glory in 
 narrating the story of Washington's campaigns, and the bat- 
 
60 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 ties fought in Revolutionary times. From which feet, the sim- 
 ple folks may learn how a plain may he turned into a cam- 
 paign, and thereby turned into a camp-pain, by the blood which 
 has been shed there by Anglo-Americans and Yankee-English- 
 men ; for we were once, a long time back in history, all sons 
 of a common father, and would have remained so, had not the 
 devil come over this world on two sticks. 
 
 The Washington Rock is still a place for Sunday-school 
 pic-nics, and peace now blossoms where there was once grim 
 war ; and as you are being whirled over the railroad, from the 
 windows of the car you can see it, and the hotel on the top of 
 the Schooley mountains in the distance. 
 
 To enjoy this region of country thoroughly, go spend a while 
 with some farmer Avho has planted seven or eight thousand 
 peach-trees, and is laying out some seven or eight hundred acres 
 of land in corn and garden-stuff, with plenty of houseroom for 
 his laborers, and well kept barns and stables, with all the ne- 
 cessary equipage for a fiirm, and its accompanying appendage 
 of stock, fat cattle, Avell bred pigs, horses, donkeys, ducks, geese, 
 poultry, and merino sheep. The table furnished you may be 
 plain, but the food will be wholesome, and you need not fear 
 but his hospitality will be cordial ; for he will top it off with 
 some of his fine old apple-jack, which is good for consumption, 
 and will keep you healthy and sound until you are eighty. 
 
 Over the hillsides you can ride all day on horseback, and visit 
 the towns of Providence and Summit, which, as things are now, 
 are but suburbs of New York, but will one day be blest with 
 another line of railroad, and then you will find out how farms 
 so near a metropolis may be bought for fifty to one hundred 
 dollars an acre, with enough wood and timber to pay for the 
 cost of clearing them. We saw one elderly neighbor who was 
 cutting hickory poles, with his wife helping him bend the 
 
FFwOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 61 
 
 staves, which had been split the proper lengths for the West 
 India market, and the idea struck us that the money which they 
 had obtained from the merchants to whom these staves had 
 been sold for their vakie, must have realized a price sufficient 
 to have built the house in which they now lived, cleared their 
 expenses, and paid for the entire cost of the land. Here were 
 a couple of Johns and Joans such as the Lord intended them 
 to be ; a simple-minded, honest, and worthy people, content 
 with the wages of their own industry ; a helpmate for her hus- 
 band ; and although she was one of his ribs originally, she did 
 not split them into whalebone strips in order to make a tilt for 
 a termagant to display her legs under a wicker basket. 
 
 The villages in this vicinity are very prettily built up, and 
 planted with garden lots, having one or two acres in extent, 
 partaking somewhat of the nature of small farms, with proper 
 buildings for stables and outhouses attached. We attended a 
 trial before one of the justices of peace in the vicinity, whose 
 knowledge of law was very limited, and whose interpretation 
 of Nixon's Digest partook somewhat more of a severe attack 
 of indigestion than of any of the well established principles of 
 the law, to say nothing of the common-sense of mankind, or of 
 Lord Coke. 
 
 When by mistake the ticket-master at the Scotch Plains 
 station had checked our trunk to Scranton, which is one of the 
 heads of the Jersey road, we found it necessary to change cars 
 at the junction, in order to get on to the Lackawanna branch, 
 leading by another route to the same place, Ave were obliged to 
 let our trunk remain behind, and go out to the Delaware Water 
 Gap with a very " small share of clothing." This little mistake 
 produced very little inconvenience, for it was remedied in a few 
 days after we had telegraphed to the baggage-master, who had 
 gone straight forward to the Scranton depot. Mr. Staples, the 
 
62 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 agent for both tlie Union Telegrapli Company and the Dela- 
 ware and Lackawanna road, was very civil to us, and put him- 
 self to much trouble in his effort to help us out of the scrape ; 
 in fact, he repeated the telegram for us at his own expense. 
 After several days the trunk arrived, and we were now com- 
 fortably situated in the Lenape House, kept by Mr. Burrill, 
 who manages a private hotel very well, and professes to write 
 a little poetry occasionally ; but of whom it could not be said, 
 " You haunt keep a hotel," for he turned out to be a capital 
 provider as well as caterer for us on a subsequent occasion, 
 where he served as an able pilot for us over the rapids at the 
 Delaware Water Gap ; concerning which we will treat further 
 on, while we proceed in our wanderings through this State. 
 
 " Can I not take mine ease iu mine inn?" 
 
 John Falstaff. 
 
 Mr. " Swallows ox the Wing," 
 
 To. A. B. BuREiLL, Dr. 
 
 To Tliree Days' Board, at $2 15 . . . . $8 25 
 "Ale . 50 
 
 $8 75 
 Water Gap, Aug. 24, 'G6. 
 
 Rec'd Payment, 
 
 A. B. BURRILL. 
 
 A distinguished counsellor once said to a friend in la\v, " I 
 had rather at any time see prompt than cheap on a lawyer's 
 sign." Our. landlord was an exception to this, and with the 
 further advantage which he obtained by residing near to the 
 telegraph and railroad station, both of which were in the charge 
 of a very staple person, for he not only kept this post under 
 his care, but was baggage-master, and Hope^s Express agent at 
 this point. Thus he became very much like the Quadrilateral 
 on the Mincio, in Italy, about which we have all heard from a 
 
FK03I THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. ft3 
 
 certain editorial reporter of tliose times, wlio liad stated while 
 holding two quills iu one hand, while Avriting a midnight article 
 as a leader, that it was possible for a man to see stars double, 
 without meaning that the public should look upon this feat in 
 the light of a double entendre. Our landlord also had a sur- 
 prising degree of energy, as well as capacity in his keeping ; 
 for he not only ran his hotel, but kept a shop at the foot of the 
 hill on the heights of which his mansion was located, was a 
 getter-up of very nice pic-nics, and rowed a boat which was 
 always kept at the disposition of any of the guests who desired 
 to seek that pleasure on the waters of the Gap. Tlie Delaware 
 Water Gap is certainly one of the most charming and delight- 
 ful summer resorts in the United States, north of Mason and 
 Dixon's line ; Avhich exception we must be forgiven for no'ang 
 at the present time, for that indefatigable boundary never had 
 any certain determination that was clear to our mind, particu- 
 larly since that awful Breck-in (the) ridge, where a certain gen- 
 tleman was attempting to ride two horses at a time, and fell 
 from either, like the unfortunate classic adventurer Pegasus, 
 aspirant for the sun against Phoebus, whose wings fell oflf, be- 
 cause, we suppose, he had forgotten to fasten them with sealing- 
 wax. It has delightful drives to distant waterfiiUs, pleasant 
 trips to minor cascades in the neighborhood. There are the 
 shady retreats beyond the " Binnacles," as that part of the Dela- 
 ware is named, where the islands gather up the streams into 
 separate arms, and form a picture very much like those curva- 
 tures of the Mohawk or upper branch of the Hudson, or on the 
 Connecticut, near Mount Holyoke, which are usually designated 
 as " The Ox-bows." There are delightful walks in the woods 
 by the river side, with the stream always in sight ; but we can- 
 not say much for the rough rocky roads that we had to tread 
 upon, which seemed as if they were making hard mouths at the 
 
64 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APAKT. 
 
 Water Gap across tlie way, wliich was furiously and noisily 
 bursting through the narrows, where we were satisfied to limit 
 one of our foot excursions by the stump of an oak tree, stretch- 
 ing its bare arms aloft to the sky, just in sight of a deep cave, 
 which was much resorted to by the visitors here from the Kit- 
 tanniny Hotel, which marked the proper and natural boundaries 
 of the two chains of mountains which lock up the Delaware 
 into its narrow channel, where we supposed the waters of the 
 Deluge had forced themselves through, and burst these primeval 
 walls in tAvain. 
 
 What between rain and water — for it poured one entire day 
 while we were at the Gap — and had it not been that a gentle- 
 man from South America, who had resided in Peru, some 
 three miles back from the coast, where he had been for a number 
 of years engaged as a merchant and wool-gatherer, we should 
 have passed a sorry day ; in spite of which, one plucky young 
 lady insisted on going out to botanize in the lulls of the 
 showers, and entered into the pursuit with a spirit that showed 
 us she was determined to make the most of the short time she 
 was permitting herself to remain during her vacation from 
 school. She was a normal school teacher at the academy at 
 Minersville, Pennsylvania. The clouds broke away from the 
 west about sundown, and parting, poured a flood of bright 
 promise for the morrow. 
 
 " The darkest day e'er shone upon, 
 Was lighted by to-morrow's sun." 
 
 So on the next morning, learning there was to be a fair at 
 Shawneetown, held by the ladies attached to the little brick 
 Presbyterian edifice just outside the main road from that 
 humble village, we started, after finding the direction from the 
 post-master, who kept a country store across the bridge which 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMH1T.>, 65 
 
 spanned the creek ; we hastened on for about a mile, then crossed 
 over a long covered wooden bridge over the Shawnee branch 
 of the Delaware. We were not long in finding some nien who 
 were at work in a marble quarry, and from them learned that 
 we had to go straight forward, following the track of other 
 vehicles which were bound for the festival. We had not 
 walked more than three miles before we discovered the flags 
 which denoted the exact localities where the ladies had esta- 
 blished their tables. It turned out to be a regular country 
 gathering, and all the people from the neighboring villages had 
 been drawn there, both to attend the party and watch the game 
 of base ball which was actively engaged in by the Collinstown 
 Ball Club, who were dressed in their gala costumes, Avith blue 
 caps on their heads. The venerable pastor of the flock was 
 there to keep up the respect due to such occasions, and we re- 
 mained there only temporarily, to look at the spot where their 
 booths had been erected amid a grove of noble elms, over- 
 hanging one of the branches of a lively stream, upon whose 
 waters were several of the visitors, who were enjoying the 
 prospect from their pleasure-boats, alongside of whom was the 
 brass band of Collinstown, with their instruments of wild music. 
 Shortly afterwards we sought a guide to take us up to Mozier's 
 Nob, the greatest feature of attraction as to the magnificent 
 view which is to be had from its top. Taking a youth who 
 was spared by his father, one of the selectmen of the place, 
 whose name Avas Joseph Wilson, we tolled him along with the 
 bait of a large water-melon, which it seemed had been brought 
 there by some of the people of the backwoods, or the " Pines," 
 but who had been obliged by the directors to keep off from the 
 grounds, because they had charged too much for their fruit. 
 Joe proved to be a very bright boy ; and although you scarcely 
 need a guide for such an ascent, which may be overcome in the 
 
66 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 space of about three hours at the farthest, by a smart walker, 
 it was just as well for us to have had his company. At the 
 base of one of the mountains we met the man whose name has 
 preceded us from the bottom of the hill. He was in the pit, 
 digging a well, in order that he might find a spring, for the es- 
 tablishment of a watering-place at this point. We were directed 
 by Mm over his gTounds to a second elevation, not apparently 
 so from the first upon Avhich we had mounted, but Avas in 
 reality the highest nob in this region of country; and his name, 
 Avhich was Mosier, might just as well have been sounded as Moses, 
 for when we arrived at its summit, the view which was seen 
 from all parts of the circumference embraced a circuit of ninety 
 miles, and could be hardly surpassed by the ancient Mount 
 Pisgah. Away far off in the distant horizon was the Water- 
 Gap, with its " Binnacles," Avhich now appeared like ribbons 
 of silver, and the whole range of the Pocono, and farthest of 
 all. Pike county, and all the little lakes and villages in the ad- 
 jacent territory and counties of Pennsylvania. 
 
 After our return from the Xob, we were occupied in being 
 introduced to several of the ladies, who were in waiting for 
 customers before the several tables ; our usual experience in 
 regard to these charitable feasts proved the wisdom of the 
 proverb that 
 
 "The liberal man shall be made fat," 
 
 for we were waited upon by several of the belles of the village, 
 one of whom, a Miss De-barre, reminded us very much of a 
 similar beauty of French extraction, with whom we had been 
 acquainted some time previously in the State of Jersey. 
 
 On examining some of their names, it was curious to trace 
 the migratory character of a few of the inhabitants of this local- 
 ity ; many of the farmers about here Avere very comfortably 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMJNIITS. 67 
 
 off, and had grown rich from boating timber as Imnbermen, 
 and as raftsmen on the river. This hardy race of people, with 
 thrifty and strong bodies, form a good basis for a sound and 
 healthy progeny. Their successors are such as are needed to 
 make us all patriots, and perfect Americans. 
 
 Roughing it upon the water, continual exercise in the open 
 air, and all muscular development bring beauty to the form, 
 and enlarge the powers of the soul. Many of these persons 
 had formerly been residents of Pennsylvania's remoter counties, 
 and some had crossed over from New York and Now Jersey ; 
 thus imitating the habits of their ancestors, the aborigines, 
 whose names, under the titles of the Shawnees, the Delaw'ares, 
 Lenapes, and Kittanninnies, still linger among the hills and 
 streams in the vicinity of the Delaware Water-Gap. 
 
 It was towards nightfall before we quitted this gay scene, and 
 were delighted that we had been enabled thus to become 
 acquainted with the country-people ; we could not but regret 
 that we should not be present at the celebration of another 
 pleasant gathering at the house of the aged priest with white 
 locks, who, with his cheerful wife, was made so happy at the 
 receipt of their donation, amounting to five hundred dollars, at 
 the time of its presentation at their house. This was the 
 heartfelt and cordial oblation and fruit-offering of the flock; 
 we know 
 
 " Alms are the wings which bear our prayers to heaven." 
 
 It only shows that when the ladies take a thing in hand, the 
 matter will soon be accomplished. 
 
 We were compelled to take to a boat for our return home 
 
 that evening ; and had it not been that our landlord, Mr. B , 
 
 was compelled to get home by the same conveyance, we might 
 
68 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 have had to roost all that night on one of the branches of a 
 neighboring elm, or a sour apple-tree. Thus it Iiappened that 
 in going down the stream, the boat got aground, and had to be 
 poled off; for the river was very low at this season, and could 
 be waded across in many places ; finally, after getting her off, 
 we succeeded in getting into the raft channel, then passed on 
 our way very safely until we rounded the base of a bold, rocky 
 bluff, where the current began to rush along very swiftly ; then 
 we had to back our bark, and by letting her drift down stern- 
 first, till we thus slipped adroitly over the rapids Avhich beat in 
 swells abreast the precipice much like the Rip-Raps at a flood- 
 tide on the ocean's inlets. We were not home yet, however ; 
 so we had to land on a narrow strip of beach, where we all got 
 out, except a lad ; the boat was held by its painter in the hand 
 
 of Mr. B , the boy with us remaining in the stern, and after 
 
 she was floated out into deeper water where the current bore 
 her round the point of the island, and was swung round by sheer 
 force of the tide, to a point below, where we Avere again taken 
 in, and in a short time landed at the harbor on a wharf. Thus 
 our landlord proved his skill, not only as an excellent host, 
 but a capital pilot ; for he had handled this vessel as well as 
 any old salt-water skipper could have done. 
 
 Once in the hotel, with some of the spoils of the fair in our 
 possession, we were next morning occupied in talking about 
 the scenery, while among other things, Miss C. Scott, the young 
 schoolmistress, engaged our attention by some perfect speci- 
 mens of the pitcher flower and Turk's head, which had been 
 presented to her by some of her friends who appreciated her 
 exceeding fondness for botany ; in fact, she was so possessed 
 with this taste herself, that she would not stop for the weather, 
 but went out after flowers while the rain poured down in buck- 
 ctfuls. Not to be outdone by the ladies, a gentleman present 
 
FKOJI THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 69 
 
 at that siglit produced a beautiful wreath made from the scales 
 of fishes taken from the waters of Brazil. This had been pre- 
 sented to one of the lady managers of the fair that had been 
 held the day before, at the Shawnee Creek encampment, and 
 had been sent her, for her use on that occasion, by one of her 
 relatives in New York. The gentleman, who took it at a lot- 
 tery, need not disclose how much it cost ; for it was not bought 
 with a price, nor purchased with gold. Tlie one Avho drew 
 it has many pure reminiscences in acknowledgment of her 
 sweet influence still resting on his heart, from that bright day 
 of sunny light, 
 
 " Bridal of the earth and sky," 
 
 and has no cause to regret that she induced him to open his 
 purse-strings liberally, for he will remember that occasion as 
 one of the brightest memories of a lifetime, whereof the recol- 
 lection beams up now, as vividly as a green oasis doth in a 
 wilderness, shaded by the softening plumage of towering palm- 
 trees overhead. Adieu, sweet girl, and if forever, fare thee 
 well. 
 
 " Old friends, old scenes, familiar grow, 
 As more of heaven in each we see ; 
 Some softening gleams of love and prayer. 
 Shall dawn on every cross and care." 
 
 Kehle. 
 
 To those who like to go to concerts in the parlors of a 
 hotel, we leave for their entertainment a little exhibition of 
 operatic singing, which was very cleverly executed in an over- 
 ture conducted by ]\Ir. Thomas, who was well sustained by 
 some of those nightingales who not only Aving their flights to 
 the gaps of the mountains, but sing out their clear and melo- 
 
10 DRIFT THOUGHTS AVIDE APAUT. 
 
 dious notes witli natural trills, such as those warblers of the 
 forest can only surpass. 
 
 The private theatricals in the parlor of the Kittanninny 
 Hotel, on the evening before we left, would have been credit- 
 able to any of our city Thespians. 
 
 The cuilain, of course, did not fall or roll up with the light 
 graceful depictions of the scenery of waterfalls, such as are 
 painted with a large whitewash brush, and portray very irregu- 
 lar-looking towers and columns, Avith pretty Swiss peasants in 
 bloomers, besides other views of sheep and shepherdesses in the 
 <listance, dancing on the village green, before curious little 
 churches and convents, with nuns running all round the corri- 
 dors to the chapel and imaginary confessionals, Avhere vespers 
 chanted in the dark are heard as the evening bells toll the 
 people to prayers ; but there was an arrangement of damask 
 cloth sent up from the city for the present occasion ; and arti- 
 ficial waterfalls were supplied by the ladies, and cataracts 
 were included in the very name of the Kittanninnies ; you 
 may be sure, of course, that there Avere caterwaulings enough 
 around the house and in the Avoods ; while sometimes a few 
 catastrophes Avould.neoessarily happen to such as were caught 
 riotously gambolling and skylarking about the terraces running 
 down to the river and over the banks. The whole affair Avas 
 considered a success. 
 
 It is always very fashionable to make an object of yourself 
 when you are away from town in summer ; for some people 
 are like the prophets, who are not Avithout honor, except at 
 their OAvn homes. 
 
 " How much a fool that has been sent to Rome 
 Excels a fool that has been kept at home," 
 
 Is a Avell-known and greatly appreciated adage, for which I 
 think we are indebted to Sir Edward Lytton Bulwer. 
 
FEOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. Vl 
 
 We took the notice, that this affair was of itself a complete 
 success and a splendid thing, for granted, but never thouo-ht it 
 worth our while to dispute other people's opinions of or about 
 such trifles as these ; for these views are mere matters of taste, 
 and 
 
 "De gustibus non est disputandum." 
 
 It is not everybody that likes turkey, and to Beattie, wc 
 think, we are indebted for it ; to Dugald Stewart, who says 
 that— 
 
 " Opinioa paints with varying rays 
 The golden dreams which beautify oar days." 
 
 It was well enough, and so we thought; it afforded us a fine 
 opportunity for the expression of our determination to leave 
 the Delaware Water-Gap on the morrow after. It is always a 
 good thing to leave after you have made a good impression in 
 a visit, ^5ar exemple ; don't stay a minute after, but take i ^ 
 your hat and walk ; and having let off a rocket of fine words 
 something like the following, to wit: 
 
 " Blessings brighten as they take their flight," 
 
 Go — for prestidigitateur, like the inimitable Blitz : 
 
 " Welcome coming, bids them smiling in, 
 "While farewell shuts the door." 
 
 Publicans, we all know, arc much like civil corporations, 
 who have no souls. " You pay your money and you get your 
 price ;" and an innkeeper is not only described, but found to 
 be a person Avho covers you Avith his board, but who often 
 takes you in, in the bargain. 
 
72 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 It was told of US a long time ago, tliat we had remarked as 
 to various persons who frequent the summer watering-places, 
 " That all the men were ducks, and all the women decoys." 
 Saxe has somewhat better expressed it, in the differences 
 between Newport and Saratoga, viz. " In the one they go 
 into the waters, in the other the water goes into them." We 
 will not vouch for the truth of that allegation, but can swear 
 to the certainty of the result we arrived at after long experience 
 in travel, that all travellers are considered as geese by the 
 hotel-keepers throughout the world, and so treated as only fit 
 subjects to be plucked. But for greater consolation we offer 
 the sage counsel of Solomon : 
 
 Always keep your temper under any circumstances that may 
 happen ; and if you find that their bills are somewhat higher 
 than you might have fancied they would have been when you 
 entered their premises, pay them with a good grace and with 
 a smile on your face ; remark, within the secret cabinet of 
 your inmost feelings, to yourself, " The next time you catch 
 us in the same scrape, you will probably know it ;" then get 
 into their coach, and be off by the next train. 
 
€l)aptcr 10. 
 
 The whole party that had stayed at the Lenape House dis- 
 nppeared by the up-train towards Easton. We had all concluded 
 to go from the Delaware River Gap over the Pocono Mountain, 
 by a path which enabled us to pass through one of the finest 
 lumber and farming regions in Pennsylvania. 
 
 The view from that mountain, as it appeared to us whilst 
 we looked back on its scenery from the back seat near the 
 platform of the rear car of the train, afforded probably the 
 grandest and most extensive view of wild mountain scenery in 
 the United States ; taking in as it did, as far as the human eye 
 could reach, hills, valleys, and rivers of Pennsylvania, and the 
 fertile fields of Central New Jersey ; and that gaze occupied 
 our strictest attention until we arrived to within a few miles of 
 Scranton, Avhich was approached after we had delighted our 
 vision with this last prospect along this route. Then standing 
 and looking before us, we had a sight of some remarkable and 
 peculiarly -formed cliffs, or high, overreaching, basaltic-like bluffs, 
 which stood in bold advance in front of the place itself; so as 
 to warrant us in believing that nature had here marked by 
 some noted feature the presence of an entirely new formation 
 of soil and rock, totally different, and in strong contrast with 
 
 4 
 
H DRIFT THOUGHTS WIPE APART. 
 
 llie timber-lands and wild forests and fanning regions wliicl 
 we liad passed. 
 
 A romantic approach indeed is that which forms the boun- 
 dary line of the Coal Region ; while a furious little cascade, burst- 
 ing through the crevices of a huge bowlder of rock, was a fit 
 gateway to that go-a-head city of Scranton, the head and the 
 heart of the Lackawanna Coal Region. 
 
 At this point our party separated, each body going off in 
 different directions. The South American, -with his bright- 
 eyed daughter of Peruvian descent, black olive eyes, dreamy 
 looks, and raven hair, took the Western Pennsylvania on 
 the Erie route, through the long tunnel, after passing the 
 bridge at Easton, on towards Elraira and the lake, for a look at 
 Niagara Falls. The young schoolteacher went on her return to 
 her home at Minersville, and we Avere left alone to make our 
 way as well as we could, after diligent inquiry along the load, 
 as we walked the streets -with a very nonchalant and care-for- 
 nothing air ; we started for, and trudged along towards the 
 Railroad Station in order to purchase a ride to Carbondale. 
 But, on arrival near the depot, we found it rather hard to make 
 much headway westward ; for we trusted that a kind Provi- 
 dence would open a path for us, and disclose whether the 
 friend whom we intended to visit at Ilonesdale Avas at home or 
 not at his present domicile in that place. After our several 
 attempts had been foiled, and we were about ordering our 
 baggage off the coach, and ourselves taken back to a hotel, we 
 were suddenly introduced to Mr. Gerry, the former sheriff of 
 Wayne county, who informed us that our acquaintance was yet 
 at his home, and that he was one of his neighbors. Here was 
 an answer to my prayerful seeking ; and Ave blessed these 
 words of the sage : " The lot is cast in the lap, but the whole 
 disposal thereof is of the Lord." Who could be a better 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 75 
 
 guide for an inquiring lawyer than the sheriff of a county ? 
 We did not hesitate after this, and taking the steara-car for 
 about ten miles, "vve were transferred after an hour's ride from 
 the cars to the tramway omnibus at Providence ; and forwarded 
 thence, rushing along the gradual ascent by force of gravity. 
 At about six o'clock in the afternoon, we were landed at 
 the Harrison House, in Carbondale, Avhich by the way Avas a 
 capital hotel, although kept by one of our countrymen from 
 the Alabama when south. Before retiring that night it was 
 our good fortune to aid a portly Southern lady, with a very 
 interesting young lady, her daughter, to a seat in a conveyance 
 which was to take her that evening to her Northern friends 
 in Weymouth, a place about ten miles distant. She was lately 
 from Georgia, where she had managed to keep a little of her 
 property from the ravages committed during Sherman's raid 
 through a portion of that State. We will say a portion of that 
 region ; for we always imagined thus : that illustrious Gene- 
 ral in his sweeping raid bore more of the nature of the Boa- 
 Constrictor, which swings his tail in a coil of lengthy propor- 
 tions, assimilated somewhat to what is known as a bee-line ; 
 and like Pope's Alexandrine verse of serpentine measure, drags 
 its slow length along, leaving a thick slime over the course 
 which it pursues, but not necessarily SAvallowing all the whole 
 hogs, or all the cattle or chattels of so large and wealthy a 
 territory as that of Georgia, which has, to our knowledge, 
 gold mines rich enough in its bowels to pay one-half of our 
 national debt. It is " all in my eye, Betty Martin," we say to 
 some of these croakers who are always prophesying famine 
 and destruction ; and you cannot make us believe that any 
 such people like those of the South were not smart enough, 
 when they had due notice that there were robbers and 
 brigands around, to have laid aside a little huono mano, or a 
 
76 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 leetle something " pour boire," for the highwayman, but certes 
 did not hand over all the ready cash they had in their locteis, 
 for, 
 
 " Cantabit vacuus coram latronem viator," 
 
 " The empty traveller doth whistle 
 Before the robber and his pistol." 
 
 Translation of an Old Play. 
 
 We have no doubt that this good lady, who was in all points 
 embonpoint, and the pink of Southern chivalry, that is, '"'■fair, 
 fat, and forty,'' had laid by a penny for a wet day ; at least 
 we thought so, and stop here with this declaration as a motto, 
 standing on our signet ring as a shield, " fortis et fidelis." 
 " Strong and faithful," we hope to be, to the last drop of our 
 American blood, with its red, Avhite, and blue, in our veins and 
 body. We will always strive to be a preux chevalier to a lady, 
 be the same from the North or South ; for our type of a 
 Bayard glows with a fortitude of faith in good breeding ; and 
 we shall stand up for this truth, as firmly and as boldly support- 
 ing it as old Luther did, who swore, 
 
 " That he would go to "Worms 
 If all the devils in hell were on the roof." 
 
 So we lifted this excellent damsel into the wagon Avhich was 
 then standing waiting for these ladies at the door. Having, in 
 due consideration for her weight, provided a chair from the 
 hotel to assist her in mounting into the vehicle. We do not 
 forget to remember that they thanked us for our politeness, 
 which is not the usual consideration paid us at the North, for 
 yielding our scat in an omnibus or street-car; owr ladies, we 
 
FROAI THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. VV 
 
 fear, are so taken up with tlieir love for dress or themselves, 
 that they forget they were taken only from the ribs of the men, 
 and that those spare ribsf were not intended by nature to be 
 worn upside down, so as to preclude them from a proper 
 address to a gentleman. Having slept a night at this charm- 
 ing little town of Carbondale, so called from the valley of the 
 coal formation cropping out in the dales behind the place, where 
 the Delaware and Hudson Canal and Coal Company have 
 located some of their offices, sunk their pits or adits for 
 their works, and the employment of a corps of active en- 
 gineers, we strolled about the village, to inspect its modern 
 aspect. It was with a feeling of melancholy that we regarded 
 the evidences which showed signs of decay and dissolution. 
 The cause was accounted for by various reasons ; chiefly from 
 the fact, that the speculative projects have long since died out 
 from want of support, and that they who had formerly grown 
 wealthy from the products of these mines had gone elsewhere 
 to reside, where they could better enjoy the fruits o,f their 
 labors. Civilization, like water, will pursue its natural course ; 
 you cannot make it run up hill unless you force it back by a 
 hydraulic ram ; and it is then about as difficult to keep the 
 machine running as it is to pull a horse to water. The ice 
 somctunes closes one in the winter, and as it takes more than 
 one swallow to make a summer, so it takes a large body of 
 cheerful, pleasant people to form an agreeable and permanent 
 society. We have little hopes for the future welfare of Carbon- 
 dale until the Episcopal Church, located on the other side of 
 the bridge over the Lackawanna, is raised up out of its damp 
 position ; for as we entered the basement to enjoy the vesper 
 services the last evening we remained there, in the presence of 
 a few devout worshippers, we could not but reflect that however 
 beautiful may be your edifice, even if built with all the perfec- 
 
V8 DRIFT THOUGHTS 'WIDE APART. 
 
 tion of tlie grace and symmetry wliieli the Gothic form admits, 
 a house situated over a damp cellar is always sure to breed 
 consumption ; and when communicants get to coughing all 
 through the service, the Church is more apt to become a manu- 
 factory of coffins ; and that even a candlestick situated on a 
 hill without a light at its head will not shine, nor the dry 
 bones of Elisha be raised up by any spirit of a resurrectionary 
 Assyrian passing, unless the live body of a Church's members 
 be lifted up out of the present dead state of our Protestant 
 worshippers, who shut up their temples, only to open them 
 on Sundays ; surely, we are still in the dark, or rather, looking 
 through a glass darkly. 
 
 The next afternoon we telegraphed to Honesdale, that we 
 should be at the Allen House at 5 p.m. precisely. 
 
 What a delightful drive over, was that we had on top of the 
 stage-coach with our clever driver, with spectacles on his nose ; 
 and with a team of noble bays, we soon passed along the six- 
 teen miles that lie between us and that city ; and the best part 
 of it was that over the Moosick range of mountains, which 
 formed a barrier that scpai-ated the county of Lucerne from 
 that of Wayne ; the former, all coal ; the latter, agricultural, 
 with farms in a splendid condition. 
 
 We rather thank the Dutchman in the hotel at Carbondale, 
 who told us that the roads were horrible and the stage-ride 
 awful. We never believe such evidences as those ; the man 
 was a foreigner, and not used to our institutions or manners, or 
 modes of travel. They are so used to dog-carts, drcyschutz, canal 
 boats, and droskies abrood, and flat plains and various other 
 little peculiarities, that they cannot fully appreciate our rough, 
 hilly, and rocky roads. Surprise was always one of the charms 
 of life to us ; and we concluded it not strange that this man 
 had found the Allen House very poor, and the stage-coach 
 
FROM THE SEA TO TFIE SUMXHTS. 'id 
 
 dreadful ; for the truth was, he had eaten ham at supper, the 
 last evening he spent at the inn. 
 
 The staging v.-as the very best we had enjoyed for a long 
 time ; but be sure that you ride on the top, alongside of the 
 driver. We fonnd that all his accounts were exaggerated, and 
 tliat lie must have had a very bad case of dyspepsia to begin 
 with, from liaving swallowed a liard-boiled egg for his break- 
 fast. We were delighted with the passage over tlie Moosick. 
 The range of lulls, seen from the distance, was glorious ; the 
 sunlight was just litting up the smoky atmosphere of mist 
 Avhich had been gathering during the forenoon, and the golden 
 light of the sun burst out in full splendor to illuminate the 
 landscape, while a blue veil was spread over the entire pano- 
 rama of the scene, which was glowing with the purple colors 
 of the mountain range ; at our feet, and far off in the perspec- 
 tive, the little village of Carbondale with ail its churches and 
 glittering steeples : and, all along the line of an ascent, this 
 picture was varied with its ever-changing moods of light 
 and shade. This scene reminded us somewhat of the land- 
 scape in Lower Austria, near Styrin, and in the vicinity of the 
 range of the hills near Rerkstergarten. In fact, the dip of all 
 the mountains in the world seems to bear the same relative 
 positions as to their inclinations towards the north-easterly and 
 south-Avesterly directions. There is a harmony in all the forms 
 of nature. What a beautiful mosaic is continually displayed 
 in the gray of the stones, the organic toning purple of the hills, 
 and rich bronze of the valleys ! The rich golden skies are fused 
 with the gushing violet and blue cerulean, and the rosy tints of 
 sunset mingling all the gush of varied tints, fi*om the triple primes 
 of color which issued to adorn all creation with vanishing 
 splendor, to illuminate the pages of a revelation which sounded 
 in sweet accord upon the key-board of a divine instrumenta- 
 
80 DRIFT THOUGHTS — TVIDE APART. 
 
 tion these attributes of beauty and lionor and grace, wliicl" 
 gusbed out in notes of praise to the great Creator of heaven 
 and earth, the seas and the skies. All God's works are but 
 emblems of His beneficence and benefaction ; all were made to 
 glorify Him ; and flower and field, garden and hill, mountain 
 and vale, with the rivers and oceans, springs and fountains, arc 
 but retroflections of that primeval garden in Paradise, where 
 man was formed in the image of his Maker ; and if he keeps 
 his heart in sweet communion and happy consort with that 
 source of Light, his days on earth may yet be blessed with 
 holy aspirations, and his voice be tuned to God's eternal glory 
 and praise. 
 
 But after we had crossed over the mountain, and could look 
 back on the sweeping lines of the entire range of the Moosick, 
 extending its graceful curves like an outstretched bow, so beau- 
 tifully arched, that no neck of an Arabian blood could surpass, 
 nor that magic line which Apellcs left as his card Avhen he 
 called one morning in Athens at the study of Praxiteles, whose 
 keen perception recognized the spirit of that genius, in that 
 maginal line which lingers now on the marble form of the 
 Venus de Medici at Florence, on the Long Arno. It was a 
 divinity in truth that touched the elements with those soft, 
 light fingers of light, which bathed creation in a flood of 
 beautiful perfection ; and these mountains burst out in all the 
 harmony of the spirit breathed upon the elements, as these 
 wellsprings sang out in praise from the baptismal waters of 
 the Flood. There were no mountains before the Deluge ; man 
 lived happy enough in Paradise before the apple fell from that 
 fatal tree of disobedience. The garden Avas well watered by 
 Jehovah's hand, from the four fountains which gushed out from 
 the wellspring of Eternal Love, and bounded into the cardinal 
 points of the magnetic dial ; since which day we, sad mortals, 
 
rEO:M THE SEA TO THE SU5fM]TS. 81 
 
 stript of immortal Ijloom, liave been cliasing after the receding 
 golden apples of Ilesperides, Fortunately, in that flight, we 
 have not lost sight of Heaven, which is not so iav from every 
 one of rts as we imagine ; for from the tops of these Pisgahs 
 Moses held his sight of the land of Canaan ; from another 
 mount, Calvary, we shall regain a perfect immortality in that 
 heavenly paradise, where the Tree of Life is bearing and the 
 springs of glory rise, and Gethsemane become the prize which 
 Christ has opened to our eyes ; a sight of that golden crown 
 which, from the victory he has won as God's only holy Son, we 
 shall bear our sins no more ; and there in white, we will walk 
 Avith Jesus ; and from His ascension, mounting with the angels' 
 choral band, yet still rising, mount with cherubim and se- 
 raphim, adore Him with the saints who have gone before us ; 
 ever, evermore, on the hallowed sylvan shore ; and when all 
 hearts united, shall, with the innumerable choirs of the heavenly 
 hosts, join in one banded hymn of praise, to glorify Him who, 
 as Holy, Holy, Holy Lord God of Sabaoth, shall be the theme 
 forever ; and to Him that lived and died for us, will be sung 
 Hallelujahs loud. Amen ! 
 
 Such thoughts as these are the natural reflections which arise 
 from the ascent and sight of elevated mountains ; and such 
 was the continual outburst of our expressions of thought, as 
 we passed on by the side of the babbling little branches of 
 the Lackawaxen, which warbled bubbling its wells of praise 
 over the rippled rocks into the bed of its trickling streams. It 
 seemed to move like a bright and laughing child, with soft 
 light sparkling in its eye ; and it happily skipped along as the 
 little lambs skip and jump along the hills. Just before reach- 
 ing Prompton, and a little while after we had passed Wey- 
 mouth, where we had to drop a way mail-bag, we saw many 
 of the locomotive horses of the Delaware Company pufiing out 
 
 4* 
 
82 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 tlieir heavy clouds of white steam from their shining mouths ; 
 and along the rails and oyer the tramways and bridges, a num- 
 ber of the loaded cars were passing down, while the empty 
 ones were being hauled up by an endless chain attached by a 
 hook from the engine-house, by which the cars were either 
 connected or detached. 
 
 About half-way of our trip, wc landed a very pretty and 
 bright little maiden, who would not wait for the driver even to 
 lift her down, or drop the steps for her to dismount, but with 
 the leap from the floor, she jumped out upon the gravel road, 
 and with a hearty laugh at the passengers, ran in haste over 
 the hillside, to meet the farmer at whose house she was going 
 to visit. Just before this, wc had passed a very pretty lake, 
 where the folks in these parts go to enjoy their picnics. It 
 was a very romantically situated sheet of Avater, with a pretty 
 island in its centre covered with shrub trees, and on the borders 
 were several baiting and fishing parties. Here in the Avinter 
 many of the neighbors go to sport and skate, when there is 
 plenty of ice. Beyond Prompton the scenery grows wilder, 
 and the hills approach somewhat nearer to the roadside. 
 These were mostly all running along, and in sight of the 
 Lackawaxen ; and at a point about a mile from Honesdalc, 
 at a sudden turn in the path, we rapidly reached the lively 
 little village of Seelyviile, one of the smartest and most thrifty 
 places which Ave had seen in this vicinity. 
 
 There Avere several manufactories Avith Avatcr-poAver, and 
 others ran by steam. Tanneries, woollen-factories, foundries, 
 machine-shops, and A^arious other occupations were engaged in 
 at this point, Avhich hardly contained more than fifteen hun- 
 dred inhabitants ; but there Avas an abundance of capital, and 
 the sight of the buildings indicated that there Avas a busy little 
 beehive of stirring industry at Avork there. At this point, we 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 8S 
 
 were very niucli enlivened in the course of our journey, for our 
 friend, the sheriff, Avas of rather a taciturn disposition, con- 
 sidering he had been a sheriff, and somewhat accustomed to 
 deal with lawyers ; it was his ordinary habit to remain silent ; 
 you know that " a still tongue marketh a wise head." So we 
 could not complain, for he was very civil to us, and to him we 
 felt indebted for putting us straight on our Avay, from which 
 we might have wandered if we had not met him. In fact, I 
 think he was rather melancholy at the thought of having 
 to remove from his old place of resort ; he had a very nice 
 place on the hill a little way back from the town, and had 
 purchased a farm and saw-mill at some spot in the vicinity of 
 Scranton in some other county, whence he had just returned 
 from visiting, and feeling the character and the customs of the 
 people among whom he Avas about to reside. It is pretty hard 
 to break up your old associations, and form new ones. A man 
 may bo a stranger between two towns in Pennsylvania ; there 
 are a great many Germans in the State. In some counties 
 they predominate ; he was very prudent, therefore, in " looking 
 before he leapt," as Dr. Franklin used to say, or you may 
 strike your head against a beam. You all know that in all 
 such changes the women have to be consulted as to how they 
 will like it, for if they are not pleased, " there will be the devil 
 to pay." He had got this question out of the way, we judge, 
 for we had his wife and one daughter in the stage with us. 
 
 " Women rather like a change we all know, but constancy is not for 
 me," say the men; "so, ladies, now take warning." — Old Song. 
 
 While we were discussing this matter to ourselves, we looked 
 out, and there, at the bend of the river, was a graveyard, then 
 a church, then a large, high, four-hundred-feet-long barrack- 
 
84 DKIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APAllT. 
 
 looking building, wliere tlie coal belonging to tlie Delaware 
 and Hudson Canal Coal Company was dumped from the dis- 
 charging cars, and boused for preservation during the winter. 
 This they called a " pocket " for anthracite coal. They get 
 their pay from the product deriv^ed out of the Big Log Cabin 
 on the hill, by the sale of their coal in New York, where they 
 have a much larger pocket to draw from, to wit : the 
 People's, called consumers, who use a great deal of this coal, 
 for manufacturing purposes and for private use ; it is consider- 
 ed very excellent to prevent the gentlefolks from getting a 
 consumption from coughs, to which we are all liable during the 
 cold weather. By the way, for a proper remedy for this 
 malady — we recommend it, from having tried it — use McKin- 
 ley's Cough Powders. 
 
 Then a sight of the Methodist Church steeple met our 
 view — a very clever sort of frontispiece for a town, but a wood- 
 cut at that, somewhat of a relief after the tombstones — by 
 which, although it Avas quite distant from, and out of sight 
 of the city, we considered that it must have been a very 
 methodical idea, that had seized the minds of the original 
 settlers of the place, to put their highest and best building 
 foremost, the best foot in front, in order to make a good 
 impression upon strangers, which is very important under all 
 circumstances. 
 
 It had that effect upon us, as we were driven round this 
 edifice, and had to go round several other corners, before we 
 arrived at the beautiful, neat, and well conducted, and hand- 
 some town of Honesdale, the county-seat of AVayne. 
 
 There was some policy in this, as we found out afterwards ; 
 had the driver brought us into this city by any other way, 
 we would have first had our eyes thrown upon a huge black- 
 board fence, which served the Coal Company as a screen to shut 
 
from: the sea to the summits. 85 
 
 off tlie dirty and dark effects which their works might liave 
 had upon purchasers before a sale. 
 
 Much as any one might have come near these parts at 
 first, however white and clean might have been his garments 
 or his visage, we are rather inclined to think he would have 
 turned black in the face, and as dark as any dealer in charcoal 
 as he sits on the front of his waggon. 
 
 "Alway ye speculators and operators, in mining scliemes, or other 
 ingenious projects for making your fortune in a hurry, put your best foot 
 foremost." For " tliat i,5 a foul bird, which fouls his own nest." 
 
 riutarch^s Lives. 
 
<[II)aptcr 11 
 
 "Blessed, for bis sake, be any person 
 "Who comes at last, though late, in season." 
 
 Alma, Canto 1. 
 
 This may liavc been tlie case, at the time of the visit to this 
 section of our country, for it was rather hxte in the fall, and 
 the September gales had already begun to tell on the coast. 
 Here we were at about 1,200 feet above tide-Avatcr, and the 
 maples had already felt the influence of an early frost ; Avhich_ 
 by the way, is not strictly true as far as Jack Frost is con- 
 cerned, for the latter revelations of botany declare, that our 
 autumnal changes are not produced by any nipping cold, but 
 by the ripening of the leaves ; thus becoming a sign of our 
 immortality, and thus assuring us that our blessings brighten 
 as they take their flight. This view may somewhat lighten 
 the sad reflections which the autumn is apt to cast on the 
 minds of those whose thoughts about death are tinged with a 
 melancholy hue, for which we should all be ready and prepared 
 by keeping alive and fresh that beautiful hope which faith 
 has strengthened since the advent of our blessed Saviour, who 
 has opened a way to all those who believe in his resurrection 
 
FROM THE SEA TO IHE SUMMITS. 87 
 
 and ascension ; who, having passed through the valley of the 
 dark shadow of the grave, died that we might live in the com- 
 forting assurance, that those who believe in Him shall never 
 die, but shall be for ever with Him when he sends his angels to 
 gather up his jewels which shall be in the crown which all 
 the saints shall wear ; and they shall shine as the stars in 
 heaven in brightness. 
 
 We were in season, therefore, to enjoy the society of Hones- 
 dale. I remember the day when I was requested to come up 
 to this place on a visit to one of my fonner acquaintances in 
 New York ; and had it been in the moon I was as much at a 
 loss to know anything about it, as the people of a place called 
 Bloomingdale know anything as to what the Commissioners 
 for the Boulevard are about to do with the railroad on the 
 Eighth Avenue, until they have fathomed the mind of George 
 Law, or sounded the mysteries of those cabalistic titles which 
 are printed under the insignificant ciphers of the Sachems of 
 Tammany Hall. There is no mystery about that supposititious 
 partisan character yclept Democrat; for they are as dead as a 
 ducat. So, as Virgil once said of Mantua, we thought that 
 this Mantua, founded by one Philip of New York, might have 
 been what it proved not to be, a village ; and when we promised 
 our friend that we would drop down upon that region as a June- 
 bug doth light upon a rose, it was in a sort of dreamy state of 
 mind that we promised him in this wise : " Honesdale it is ? Yes. 
 We probably may want to sharpen our razors one of these 
 days on a hone cut of one of your rocks in Pennsylvania." 
 There was a stone dropped into the lake of my memory, and 
 it never occurred to me afterwards, until on that day when 
 I was dropped by the driver down from the stage-coach of my 
 Landlord Allen's servant, right at the door of our friend 
 William J. R, whose descent from the Welsh on one side of 
 
88 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 his house, and from the worthy old Fuller of the English ot 
 the other, Avas the same to him and ourselves, as if we had 
 both been let down from the clouds into his parlor. 
 
 " Sic transit glorfe mundi." 
 
 We arrived there Saturday night ; as the Irishman would 
 say, *' We got there before we went," or the Dutchman might 
 say, " Did it rain to-morrow ? " Yes, it Avas. 
 
 In some of the New England States, people — i. e. country 
 folks — always go in at the back door of their dwellings, and 
 never open the front, except on Sunday, or whenever the Par- 
 son comes to make his annual visit, or for a funeral. AVc 
 always had a way of our own of getting at things ; and it has 
 been said of a distinguished coimsellor of our time, that if you 
 would only let him have his own way, it would be better for 
 you in the end ; for he would pay all the fees himself, and 
 never presume or condescend to ask you for his pay for his 
 services, so confident was he of the value of his counsel. This 
 characteristic is not altogether rare nor singular ; for in Spain, 
 the Spanish waiters at Madrid always waited for us to thank 
 them for the honor they had done in serving us, like the 
 Irishman who modestly has been known to ask you, " if you 
 were the man who wanted a gentleman to take care of your 
 horse." So it goes all through life ; we row one way and we 
 look another ; and thus be careful for nothing, is about as good 
 as to trouble yourself too much over spilt milk ; for " faith is 
 only the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things 
 not seen ;" and the dog that was looking very intently at the 
 reflection of his own shadow in the stream, lost the meat he was 
 taking home for his own repast. 
 
 This was not our case, however ; avc went out rather lean 
 
FKOM THE SEA TO THE SUSnilTS. 89 
 
 and empty from our reeking and overheated town, but came 
 back fuller than before, and have cause to be very grateful for a 
 renewal of our energy, and for a safe passage over another 
 period in the ninth cycle of our mortal being. 
 
 By an irregular course, occasioned by a necessity which 
 brooks no custom to the contrary, the stage was conducted by 
 a zigzag swing, up and down every other street in the town, 
 and our driver deposited each passenger at his own door ; his 
 was called " the accommodation line ;" and this ride round 
 about town made him a very popular man with the ladies, 
 according to a law then in vogue, which compelled every per- 
 son who booked his name for a seat inside to be landed at 
 home after his arrival ; also to be called for, when he had 
 registered his intention to depart, at the office of the Allen 
 House. The Sheriff was the last one to be dropped at his 
 country cottage, which was situated a short distance out of 
 town, on a high bluff on the hills in the rear of the village. 
 
 This civility of our Jehu reminded us of a captain on one of 
 the Western steamboats on the Mississippi with whom we were 
 once a passenger, who was so polite to an elderly housekeeper 
 who lived on the banks of that river, that he actually waited 
 half an hour at the landing, at her call for him to stop his 
 boat until her old hen had laid the last egg out of a dozen 
 which would complete her basketful. We presume the cap- 
 tain kept whistling off the steam pretty hard, while his boiler 
 came nigh blowing him up near the wood-pile on shore. So, 
 good-by, Sheriff, till we meet again. 
 
 We were received by our host at the front stoop of the 
 hotel, at five o'clock p.m., precisely (for certainty, you all know, 
 is, next to order, the first point in heaven, but the second in 
 law), just as we had anticipated by our telegram which had 
 been sent from Carbondale. 
 
90 DRIFT THOUGHTS "WIDE APART. 
 
 \Yc were tlien seized by tlic hand of our clever friend, and 
 taken immediately into his house, which, to our surprise, was 
 situated right in front of the public square, in the very 
 heart of the town, and our reception inside was as cordial as if 
 we had been an ambassador from Cochin China. 
 
 Why not ? Wc were one of tlie sovereign people, and had 
 a trinity of interest on hand, and Avere now to fall into clover. 
 AVe had come here for one object ; Avhich was, to make a visit 
 to a country cousin, and a dozen more than we had expected 
 tumbled within the scope of our observations. First, there 
 was a completely built-up place, with coal, gas, and water. 
 Second, the society of cultivated and intellectual friends, not to 
 neglect mentioning the fact, that the memory of such names 
 as those of Philip Hone and "Washington Irving: — 
 
 " IIo, who drew tho inspiring- breath of ancient arls — 
 
 and trod tho sacred walks 
 
 Where at each step the imagination bui'ns 1 " 
 
 rose up here like the ghosts of departed spirits, which had left 
 their mementoes on the hills and valleys around it, and still 
 lingered there under the name of Irving's Cliff;— and in the 
 name of its founder, as Iloncsdale, noAV the county-seat of 
 AVaync. May the like illustrious projectors of man's habita- 
 tion never cease to be handed down among their traditions, to 
 honor the memory of such benefactors of mankind as these ! 
 
 Here was also the bar and the church and the clergy ; lastly, 
 and not least to be reckoned, those great workers in the world's 
 bee-hive, the so-called " Third class of society," very respect- 
 fully represented by their fobrics; — and greatest and most 
 powerful of all Avcrc the splendid operations and head-centre 
 of that mastodon of coal developments and human labor, " Tho 
 Delaware and Hudson Canal and Coal Company." AVhat o 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE .SUMMITS. 91 
 
 grand spot was found there, Avhcnco to inspect the theory of the 
 anthracite coal region, and to prepare ourselves for a thorough 
 investigation of the entire range of the coal formations, and 
 various workings of a benign Providence, for the use and bene- 
 fit of mankind, as exliibited here, in the very frontispiece of the 
 Pennsylvania and Lackawanna anthracite coal region. Ten days 
 Avere delightfully, and we may add profitably, spent at this 
 point in our journey ; and after a pleasant Saturday night's 
 slumber, we awoke upon one of the most beautiful Sundajs 
 yet enjoyed during our travels. Just opposite our window 
 was the green verdure of their neat and properly laid out 
 *• Park." At the north-west corner of it stood the graceful 
 form of a Gothic Protestant Episcopal Church. Their archi- 
 tect must have copied it from the plan of the Roman Catholic 
 Brothers at Manhattanville, which stands upon an elevated 
 boulder of rocks, overloolving the whole district of the Harlem 
 Heights, and commanding the views of the Ilarlem, Hudson, 
 and East Rivers ; while nearer, fronting in keeping with it, 
 rises the Convent of the Sacred Heart, on another high promon- 
 tory just opposite, under the care of Madame Hardy. 
 
 The Catholics have rather got ahead of us (as they often 
 very shrewdly do), while we are gazing up at the sky, looking 
 at them from a plain of infinitesimal surprise. Never mind, 
 my brotliers ; " there is a good time coming for us," if we 
 never live to see it. There is an expected end to all these tri- 
 bulations, to bring about His second coming, at the judgment, 
 which was foretold by Isaiah. If you do not know the secret 
 of the Roman Church's success, we can tell you what it is. 
 '' \Ye buy, sometimes, but v/e never sell." — Ignatius Loyola, 
 that prince of the Jesuits, — " whose means justify the ends." 
 
 Wliy should the churches of any parish in Christendom be 
 closed on Sunday, as we found that of Ilonesdale, on the first 
 
92 DKIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. _ 
 
 Sabbath wc were there ; for our liturgy has appointed a form 
 of Common Prayer-book service to be read by a layman, and 
 to be responded to with reverence by her worshippers, in case 
 of any vacancy that may happen in their pulpits. Our Church 
 has no occasion to shut out her daily sacrifice of prayer and 
 praise, with thanksgiving and song. The Jewish priests were 
 at their tabernacles morning and evening, the light at their 
 altars was never extinguished, while two paschal lambs were 
 offered up in their temples on the Sabbath ; for their lamps 
 never lacked for oil ; and if we mistake not, such is the practice 
 of the Romish Church in every part of the world to this day. 
 It might almost be said of this omission on the part of the 
 wardens of this one church (for the other meeting-houses were 
 open), " What ! have my people forgotten their resting-place ? " 
 J eremiah of old. 
 
 " Where the sound of the church-going bell, 
 Those rocks and those valleys ne'er heard ; 
 Never sighed at the sound of a knell, 
 Or smiled when a Sabbath appeared," 
 
 for this flock's had been shut up nearly all summer, Avithout any 
 settled pastor, and had not the Sabbath-school been opened 
 in the basement, there would have been a day of solitude and 
 silence in this deserted temple. It is because they were like the 
 foolish virgins, who had no oil in their lamps when the bride- 
 groom came. Presbyterians, Methodists, and Baptists, had 
 opened their doors that day and evening, and we were privi- 
 leged to enter, but not to commune with the latter, for we were 
 not hard-shelled, and had never been immersed. 
 
 " The Sabbath was made for man, not man for ihe Sabbath." 
 
 Sanscrit. 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 93 
 
 No souuder truth was ever written, than that winch was penned 
 by Solomon : " It is better to go to the house of mourning 
 than to the house of feasting." So we interpreted it literally, 
 by going to the cemetery in the afternoon, but not until we 
 had first visited the Sabbath-school, to hear the children sing 
 that sweet carol — 
 
 " I want to be an angel, 
 
 Aud with the angels stand," etc., 
 
 and then thought of the scene which we once witnessed out- 
 side of Madrid, when we observed a band of little children 
 dancing with joy, and hymning their little notes of praise, 
 which they sang after their return from the burial of one of 
 their young friends. We deemed this rather strange, but it is 
 the custom with the Castilians, and they thought the child Avas 
 happy, and had gone to heaven to add another beautiful flower 
 to the garden which the Lord has planted, to brighten that 
 crown which He had prepared in Paradise to furnish the gate of 
 heaven, for Avhich lie had gathered his brilliant jewels of dia- 
 monds, and shining pearls, and velvety emeralds, among the 
 innumerable company of the angels which were surrounding 
 His throne. 
 
 After this interlude of pleasant reminiscences had run in 
 nmsing meditation of thought through our minds, we walked 
 the paths of the immortelles^ and passed through the gateway, 
 hopefully raised before the monuments of the cemetery within. 
 
 That was (roc^'s-acre, as the Germans call it, situated on the 
 banks of the Glendeyherry, one of the smaller branches of the 
 rippling Lackawaxen. It is a pretty spot for a burying-ground, 
 hidden from the vulgar gaze of men by a thick grove of native 
 forest trees, sheltered by the cliffs that hedged it in, and cosily 
 nestled under the shadow of the hills in the rear, while it was 
 
94 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 SO far retnoved from tlie common road of travel that ran from 
 the outskirts of the town -westward as far as the little villages 
 of Bethany and Mount Pleasant, in the distance. It was so 
 quiet and secluded, so neat in its aspect and so well appointed, 
 and it looked so sacred and so holy, that we were delighted and 
 pleased that the dead were so beautifully cared for under the 
 sod ; and mused in imagination, as we lifted a prayer for our 
 own departed ones which lie in the tomb of Trinity, under the 
 greensward of that hallowed, dedicated spot, amid the solemn 
 woods of Manhattan Island. " Requiescat in pace." And then 
 left the yard in peace with ourselves. 
 
 We took a walk alongside of a branch of the Lackawaxen, 
 that is near the stone jail, behind the court-house, and crossing 
 over the narrow pathway leading to an ascent, and up a little 
 crooked way which was to lead us up to Irving's " Cliff," to 
 which it was rather hard to climb. We had to rest on the 
 stone wall every few moments to take breath. Thence we could 
 look down upon the entire form of thevUlage lying at our feet, 
 over all the trees in front of the plain on which the borough 
 was built ; it embraces the whole line of the Company's works, 
 Avith the view of two bridges, a branch of the lively Lacka- 
 Avaxen, all the steeples of its churches, the narrow basin of the 
 canal, as it slacked along the upper end of the path to\vard3 
 Ilawleysville, a slight glimpse of the factories at Seeleyville 
 beyond the line of the heavy barracks, with its pile of culm 
 looking like a heavy mass of coal-dust and rubbish, all of 
 which was gathered within the arms of two elevated hills, 
 which hemmed in the valley through which the tram-way cars 
 were constantly running, with heavy freights of produce, on their 
 way to the largest basin, which was filled with a number of 
 empty boats, ready to be laden from the warehouse, after the 
 coal had been thoroughly washed and cleaned by the Avater 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 95 
 
 process of screening tlirouglx the bars of numerous revolving 
 iron pipes, that separated the different grades of the coal into 
 its variety of egg, nut, and grate, for the use of the consu- 
 mers. 
 
 Then the view greatly increased as we went np higher in our 
 walk, until we reached the end of the declivity and landed on 
 the top of the cliflT, to which Irving himself gave its present 
 designation. The last move was to seat ourselves at the foot 
 of a large and tall pine tree, which raised its slim proportion at 
 the extreme end of the heights, and thence the whole range of 
 the mountains was exhibited, until it covered a sight of the 
 remote Catskill mountains. 
 
 Just as we were descending, the branch of a sapling broke, 
 and a sharp crackling of the limbs startled us, as two large grey 
 squirrels sprang from limb to limb, and darted away from us, 
 with their mouths full of nuts which they had stolen for their 
 evening meal. Lucky for them that we did not have our guns 
 Avith us. You think it would have been cruel thus to have fire I 
 a shot, to disturb the romance of our trip, but fortunate for them 
 to have slipped the snares of the hunter ; so wc had to listen to 
 their merry chirp as they passed away, and seemed to Avhistle, 
 almost to laugh, at our starting at all, as we thought how 
 
 Those who scamper and run away, 
 
 "Would live to be frightened some other day." 
 
 So we let them alone, because we could not help it, and then 
 clambered up the hill, to pass over the planks of a new-laid 
 platform, which had been built on the level of the plain, for 
 the use of a gay party from the village, who were going to come 
 up there in the evening to have a dance, with music, by moon- 
 light, provided the moon shone out that night — which it did 
 
96 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 not, for the rain fell until the latter part of that afternoon. So 
 the frolic was postponed. 
 
 " ' Tis ever thus from cliildhood's hour, 
 WeVe seen our fondest hopes decay, 
 "We never loved a tree or flower, 
 But 'twas the first to fade away." 
 
 Tom Moore. 
 
 So we lingered no longer at that scene, but started on ou{ 
 descent by another path which led us on to the highway back 
 of the cliffs ; and were soon brought within reach of the Ger- 
 man quarters, thence hurried along the road, and in about the 
 space of an hour came upon a new settlement, where the 
 buildings were somewhat smaller and more thicMy inhabited. 
 
 We there found ourselves near the brink of a granite quarry, 
 out of which a part of the stone was taken for the erection of 
 the Episcopal Church ; had there been more of it to spare, it 
 is likely that the new Presbyterian church, Avhich we saw in 
 its first stages of erection near the square, would have been 
 completed with the same beautiful material, instead of being 
 finished with brick upon granite foundation walls. There we 
 found ourselves at a stand ; and had no means by which to 
 rectify our mistake, save to slide down the crevices in the 
 rock, to jump off and land on the charming little bridle-path 
 which ran along its base. Here the ladies and gentlemen 
 were formerly wont to walk in the evening for a promenade; 
 but -novf Love' s Lane has been stripped of its romance and fasci- 
 nating scenes or moonlight meetings, for Erin's children have 
 taken up their abode alongside of the overhanging cliffs, and 
 under the shades of the tapering elms that line its banks. 
 Here the sons and daughters of the Emerald Green Isle, as well 
 as the daughters of the alla-cmeinc Deutschland, talk over their 
 
FKOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 97 
 
 traditionary legends about snakes and ghouls, wliilc tlieir 
 lovers and spalpeens play at sliillelabs ; these women smile to 
 think that the people's rights are in the foremost raaks of a 
 civilization, which claims for them superior privileges to those 
 enjoyed at home ; whereas we, who are to the manner born, 
 " must yield to the march of a better progress of ideas," and 
 giving up all our thoughts for our native homes to the mer- 
 cenary emigrants who have built our railroads, dug our canals, 
 and planted our vineyards, must submit to it all with the best 
 possible grace, and grin and bear it, for we cannot help it. 
 
 Glad to escape from the unsavory gales which were wafting 
 the perfumes of the boiling cabbages and sharp-scented sauer- 
 craut of the cabins, from whose roofs the smoke of the even- 
 ing incense of these emigrants' suppers was pouring out of 
 several chimneys into the air, we rushed over the causeway, 
 and arriving in safety at our host's mansion, we were about 
 ready to sit down and have our rest before taking tea, when 
 we were summoned to depart by the receipt of a message 
 from the sexton of Glendeyberry cemetery. The note was of 
 too solemn a nature to be passed unheeded. A buggy was 
 immediately ordered to the door, and in half an hour Ave were 
 again at the foot of one of the prettiest lots in the burial- 
 ground. In order to explain our hurry at this interruption 
 from the tea-table, we will have to return t<: the forenoon of 
 the very day which caused the necessity of our being out at 
 this late hour of the day. We were out in Ihe forenoon as far 
 as the little town of Bethany, a pretty little deserted village, 
 situated on the top of a hill about four miles from Ilonesdale ; 
 it presents one of the most attractive frontispieces to the whole 
 range of a group of mountainous chains which extend as far 
 as the hills on the borders of the Mohawk River, whose spurs 
 may be seen from the ridges of this elevated point. While 
 
OS DRIFT THOUGHTS AVIDE APART. 
 
 rcstiug at tlie mansion of an old friend wliom we had lost sight 
 of for over twenty years (we are aware that it is not fashion- 
 able to remember so long a tune back), we tied our horse 
 at the barn-door of Mr. Scton, before we proceeded to the 
 business which w'as first on our minds; then went over to the 
 old grave-yard that was the burial-place of the first wife of my 
 
 host, Mr. F 's father. Our object was to disinter a body 
 
 that had been deposited there about thirty years previous to 
 this visit, and to have it removed to the Glendeyberry's acres. 
 The old sexton was there before us, and we found the grave 
 had been opened, and every preparation made for its removal. 
 The party consisting of three, including our newly restored 
 acquaintance, occupied a short space of time by looking over 
 some of the ancient tombstones in the cemetery, which indi- 
 cated that some of the monuments were of a very ancient date 
 — on others of which were the names of some of the first set- 
 tlers of this county-scat, many of whom had been the pioneers 
 in the wilderness ; and bore evidence of a people of those old 
 times when the inhabitants were so far removed from the 
 habitations of this region that they had to ride ninety miles 
 on horseback through the forest, in order to get their mails 
 from the post-oflice. Those were the times of our forefathers; 
 and many Indians were about, prowling through the woods, 
 and not unfrequentjy there was great risk of being murdered 
 and robbed by the highwayman ; besides this, told again of 
 the age of the town itself, which had once been the residence 
 of a county judge, but now no longer exhibited any sign of a 
 court-house, for the county-ceat of Wayne had been trans- 
 feiTcd to Ilonesdale, and a Mr. Barrett was then presiding 
 over the new court, as judge of the Court of Common Pleas 
 at the present term in bank. The village was now in a for- 
 lorn and deserted state, somewhat in the condition of that de- 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 99 
 
 scribed by the poet Goldsmith, and with the exception of our 
 friend's residence, who had gone to a great expense in fitting 
 up an old mansion, and thus made it a desirable dwelling for 
 a retired gentleman from the city. His house was delightfully 
 situated between the churches ; and we are sure, that we can- 
 not say of him, " Nearer the churches, nearer the devil," for 
 the farm which he has improved by cultivation in tlie middle 
 of a five acre lot, has been so thickly planted with every 
 variety of native forest-trees, that it shuts out every possible 
 view of any other building. This work had been done entire- 
 ly by himself; and thus situated we found him after our 
 return from the resurrectionary process in which we had ail 
 of us been engaged. After we had been taken through his 
 library", we were invited to walk over his grounds, and were 
 led across the orchard to the end of a plot of well arranged 
 gardens and grafted fruit-trees, whence we enjoyed a view of 
 that beautiful scenery which had induced him to take up his 
 permanent abode here for the future of his mortal life. Of 
 course, a home without a wife would have been no paradise at 
 all ; he had that also, and three fine children besides, to bless 
 him with the joyous and cheerful sunshine, and of her it may 
 be said with the poet, she had 
 
 " A countenance in which did meet 
 Sweet records, promises as sweet, 
 With household motions light and free, 
 And steps of graceful dignity." 
 
 Here we stopped with our friend, who seated us on the 
 edge of a stone-wall for a prospect of more than one thousand 
 feet in height above the level of tide-water, and then listened 
 from his own lips to his expressions of his thanks for his 
 happy conclusion of a roving and wandering life. He had 
 
100 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 long been leading a sort of Bohemian existence, and settled 
 here contented to remain amid his flowers and trees and 
 books, with the surroundings of a lovely family. He narrated 
 to us how he happened to get up here in the northern part of 
 the State ; while we concurred with him in his opinion, that 
 what had pleased us in the mountain scenery of Bavaria, or in 
 the neighborhood of the lower part of Austria, had brought 
 him to remain where he had found a parallel in the beauty of 
 its charming vales and picturesque aspects, and in the delights 
 of a home. 
 
 " The loved retreat of peace and plenty ; where 
 Supporting and supported, polished friends, 
 And dear relatives meet and mingle into bliss." 
 
 With which we all agreed, even at cost of our separation 
 from a distant fireside in a city, where 
 
 " Our gayness and our gilt are all besmirched, 
 
 For all may have, 
 
 If they dare choose, a glorious life or grave." 
 
 Surely we build we know not what ! And when we asked him 
 how he came to make up his mind to rest here, he answered 
 us : " About fifteen years ago, after having returned from 
 abroad, it was my habit to rove about the country with no 
 fixed purpose as to business, for my education had been that 
 of a gentleman of leisure ; and not knowing particularly what 
 to do, I went to sea with a friend of mine who was then a 
 Commodore in the navy of the United States ; after the cruise 
 in this ship was ended, we were placed ashore and adrift, for 
 another period of reflection and inactivity ; our resolution 
 determined us to visit an old acquaintance who, after various 
 adventures in the world, had stolen a march on civilization by 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 101 
 
 eloping with a fine virgin Avhom he had met at a watering-place 
 in the East. Then tempted to find relief in the society of such 
 an agreeable and somewhat gay deceiver, he started forthwith 
 to visit him in a pleasant valley in the northern part of this 
 State. And having found him, was so well pleased to remain 
 there among the hills, that they rode together over the whole 
 region of that and the adjoining counties. Among his rambles, 
 he stopped at the present spot, where he became acquainted 
 with several of the citizens ; with some of the judges of the 
 court, which was there located, before the removal of the 
 county-seat ; and taken by the beautiful appearance of nature, 
 and by a special 
 
 " Providence which shapes our ends, 
 Rough-hew them as we will — " 
 
 These, with the society of the neighbors, so attracted him, 
 that in due time an acquaintance sprang up between him and 
 his foster-father the village blacksmith. There he soon found 
 that it was not good for man to be alone in this country, and 
 how to find a proper and good helpmate became necessary to 
 his permanent happiness. The fair Isabel was selected for his 
 spouse, and in due time the mamage was duly celebrated. 
 Thus Avas a fine spark strack from the anvil of the stalwart 
 smith's shop; and there is a legend about it which lends a 
 feature of romance to the hero of our story. 
 
 " For nature never did betray 
 
 The heart that loved her ; 'tis her privilege, 
 Through all the years of this our life, to lead 
 From joy to joy." 
 
 " For what a tangled net we weave, 
 "When we do practise to deceive." 
 
102 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 Thus far, all his speculations as to the future had failed, as 
 to the one he would be consorted with for life ; but he never 
 muttered nor maddened, nor varied more with despair, nor 
 walked he out wool-gathering as his old bachelor friends 
 grieved and wailed for the flying gold, and baskets of re- 
 turned bouquets fled through their ruined airs ; for that 
 
 " There has fallen a splendid tear 
 
 From the passion-flower at the gate ; 
 And the red rose cries, ' She is near 1 she is near 1 ' 
 
 And the white rose tveeps, ^She is late ! ' 
 The larkspur listens, ^ I hear! I hear f 
 And the Uly whispers, ' I Avait I ' " 
 
 And he who had ever been a wayward, bold, and wild self- 
 willed child of his grandfather, may now cherish his tulips, 
 prune his vines, and freely twine his woodbines under his own- 
 built pavilions on the rocky crest of lovely Bethany, and his 
 groves which have been planted there from the old woodlands, 
 and will bloom there until thou goest to that bourne of the 
 spii-it-land from Avhich no one traveller returas. After which 
 we bade adieu to our friends and returned to our evening 
 repast at Honesdale ; and that brings us back to the point 
 where we had been interrupted by a messenger sent to us, 
 while at tea. 
 
^^^^Kv^5^^^ 
 
 i 
 
 
 M 
 
 €:i)aptcv 12. 
 
 ' AVho to the verge have followed those they love, 
 
 And on the insuperable threshold stand 
 With cherished name, its speechless calm reprove, 
 And stretch in the abyss their ungrasped hand." 
 
 Will appreciate the solemn feelings which gathered round the 
 last scene which was presented to us, at the sight of the coffin 
 which the sexton had summoned us to inspect as it lay beside 
 the open grave, before depositing it in the cold obstruction of 
 the narrow tomb which was to receive the relics of the departed 
 first wife of our friend's deceased father. The case had been 
 constructed of cedar and chestnut, and was as sound as when 
 it had been first made by the undertaker, although it had lain 
 under the green sod of the upper cemetery at Bethany for over 
 thirty years. We were permitted to look at the remains of the 
 deceased, and found that the skull was only a little fractured. 
 The last shovelful of earth was then thrown into the depth of 
 the pit ; and the twilight closed on the last act of this mourn- 
 ful undertaking. We moved away deeply aff'ected by the 
 movements of that hour, and turning to the grave-digger, who 
 was as much touched by the sight which he had witnessed as 
 well as ourselves, we offered silent prayer over the ashes of the 
 three bodies buried together beneath ; " ashes to ashes," broke 
 
104 DKIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 on the associated " dust to dust," tliat sent forth their hollow 
 soundings as the tomb was sealed by a stone placed ou top of 
 the cavern of this sacred interment. 
 
 Requicscat in pace until the morning of the resurrection, 
 and ejaculations from the Spirit's voice breathed forth the 
 Avords : " Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord, for their 
 Avorks do follow them." 
 
 Ilis father was a worthy Christian gentleman, and a pious 
 lawyer, highly esteemed and loved of his fellow-men. " An 
 honest man is the noblest work of God ! " We passed from 
 the completion of this reentombmcnt. 
 
 On our return through the lines of the Glendeyberry ever- 
 greens, thinking how beautiful this passage through one of the 
 valleys, the dark shadows of death had been illuminated by 
 the bright flowers of memory which strew all our pathway 
 to the grave. Here was another sweet Auburn, loveliest gleii 
 in the plain, prettily ensconced behind the ridges which bordered 
 along in front of those high cliffs on Avhich Irving had stepped 
 during his lifetime, and quite hidden from the public gaze ; it 
 could not be intruded upon, except by those who went there to 
 honor their dead. Fair Glendeyberry, how glorious the repose 
 in God's sweet acre of rest ; here Avaiting the grand consumma- 
 tion of all things, when we shall appear before the judgment- 
 seat, and love tempered with mercy shall wipe all tears from 
 human eyes. 
 
 "For what if earth 
 Be but a shadow of heaven and things therein, 
 Each to the other hke, more than on earth is thought." 
 
 " Then welcome fortitude and patient cheer, 
 And frequent sight of what is to be borne." 
 
 ' For silence and sorrow is strong, and patient 
 Endurance is God-like." 
 
FKOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 105 
 
 " For thcj struggle vainly, 
 To endure a part, who have not courage to contend 
 For all ; and bo the day weary, be the day long, 
 At length it ringeth to even song." 
 
 "So sang the 
 Saints and martyrs in the days of the Reformation — 
 Then endure," 
 
 " The trivial round, the common task ; 
 They will furnish all we have to ask, to bring 
 Us daily nearer God.'" 
 
 "For earth liath no sorrow that heaven cannot cure." 
 
 Thus, wliile we were reflecting over tlie sinking day, which 
 was filling more and more with the crystal light, of medita- 
 tions over the transactions of this day, and pensive evening 
 deepening into night, we paced over the remaining rods of the 
 greenwood sward, until we were conducted out of the groves 
 of the ornamental shade-trees alongside of which Glendey- 
 berry's rills ran on their way to their tributary branches of the 
 Lackawaxen. And having passed through the gateway that 
 stood at the entrance of the cemetery, pursued our way back 
 to our mansion at Honesdale to scan over the sad epic of this 
 mournful past. 
 
 5* 
 
€l)aptcv 1 
 
 a. 
 
 We Avcrc awakened tlie next day by new objects which claimed 
 our special notice, as the Court had opened, according to the 
 regular appointment, on the first Monday of September, and 
 were much interested in watching the mode of legal proceed- 
 ings adopted by the lawyers at this Term. There seemed to 
 be, first, a process of calling all the several constables of these 
 different counties within the jurisdiction of this tribunal before 
 his honor. Justice Barrett, to an accounting by their returns 
 during the vacation which had passed by ; which duty having 
 been satisfactorily gone through, their reports were duly filed 
 and recorded. A jury was then empanelled, composed of a 
 very respectable body of farmers and citizens from the vici- 
 nage, and this tally having been strictly attended to, and all 
 invalid jurors excused for various causes, the Judge ordered 
 the staff-officers to take their long poles, which somewhat 
 resembled those of an English beadle ; for they were as long 
 as beanpoles, and well moimtcd with gilt headpieces. These 
 singular emblems of authority, the relics of an ancient custom 
 
FEOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS, ] 07 
 
 of this State, having been seized, the Court ordered an adjourn- 
 ment, because the lawyers were not ready to bring any case on 
 for trial, as they never yet were for any calendar on Monday. 
 
 The court was properly dismissed, and all the people left, 
 with the request that the jurors should attend precisely at ten 
 o'clock the next morning, and " sic transit gloria mundi.^'' It 
 is not Avorth while to specify any particular number of a very 
 clever bar, who practise at this centre of county sessions ; for 
 all the gentlemen of this profession are well known to be 
 adequate to fill the respective duties assigned them. We 
 found several very sharp and intelligent practitioners among 
 them, and while the court was in session, became acquainted 
 with many of them ; and during the remainder of our stay 
 visited many of them at their offices on the street. The suit 
 of assault and batteiy seemed to predominate, as is usually the 
 case among a mining people. 
 
 But it is worthy of mention, that at one house we were 
 forced to become informed, that in the former days of the law- 
 courts of this place, Ilis Honor Justice Gibson had been an 
 eminent Judge in his time, a fact well exhibited by the reports 
 of the State of Pennsylvania, in which his name figures very 
 largely. He was a giant in intellect, with a mind as clear as a 
 bell ; and Avho Avould sit up all night playing poker, and drink 
 Avhiskcy-punch all the game through, and be none the worse for 
 it the next morning. His opinion, as Captain Cuttle would 
 say, " was an opinion as is an opinion," still at this day ; and 
 when he came to die, the whole bar attended his funeral in a 
 body (we don't mean his body in this figure of speech, for 
 nobody goes to a funeral if he don't choose) ; and one member 
 induced me to read a eulogy which told that the subject of its 
 praise Avas preeminently Avorthy of being carried doAvn in histo- 
 ry, as a man whose fome might be placed alongside of Lord 
 
108 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 Mansfield, Chief Justice Marshall, or our own Chancellor 
 Kent. 
 
 Having finished all the account we can of the bar, we will 
 turn to a case in point, which bore upon the construction of a 
 new bridge over the centre of the Lackawaxen River, which 
 had wanted repairs. It was a point made by counsel, whether 
 it was the Town Commissioners' business to make it with a 
 plank side-walk for the ladies to walk over without soiling their 
 dresses, or whether it was not possible for the County Court 
 to compel them to foot the bills, if the Contractors had not 
 mentioned the subject of the ladies' wants, in the agreement to 
 rebuild the bridge, which had been executed between them and 
 the Trustees. This was an afterthought, which had been 
 omitted either by an oversight or malice ; they had not in- 
 cluded an additional expense of some three hundred dollars ; 
 but it was a feature not to be sneezed at, or bolted from. On 
 motion made by another eminent counsellor — in Avhich it was 
 opposed as a matter of course, a mere matter of form, or a 
 question of courtesy — the papers were submitted to the learned 
 Judge ; and after due deliberation, it was decided that there 
 was some equity in the case ; that it would liot do to leave 
 the ladies out in the mud, as old Deacon Giles once said 
 to Boston Common Council, whom he had often urged to clean 
 Brattle street before his door ; and when he subsequently saw 
 them, as he looked at them from his window, in a hackney- 
 coach, stuck in the mud, in the middle of the street, up to 
 the hub, " I am very glad to see you, gentlemen, stirring at 
 length in the matter; you will probably find it very dry at 
 the bottom." So, if you want anything done hereafter, you 
 had better not consult the ladies at second-hand, but try to 
 get at their opinion first ; that once obtained to your advan- 
 tage, in favor of anything that they fancy, you will be all 
 
FKOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 109 
 
 right. We confess, as far as we have any right to say any- 
 thing about it, that we would ever like to see the ladies walk 
 off with clean skirts tilting in white before ns as we move along 
 the street, for it always reminds us of the white caps of a 
 ship's wake which dashes the foam in the rear as she moves 
 forward like a thing of grace and life, and churns our thoughts 
 into such a flutter of delight, by producing an emotion of 
 transport and happiness, as well as rhapsodies such as angels 
 inight have felt and sung when they intoned unto the Virgin 
 Mary ; 
 
 " Blessed art thou amoug women." 
 
 The whole matter resulted as you might have anticipated, 
 from the assembled wisdom of that bench and bar. The 
 ladies carried their point, and it was ordered that the best 
 man pay the expenses of the needed and contemplated amend- 
 ment of a side-walk for their benefit ; and that the contractors 
 pay the cost of this action, for their neglect of the equities 
 in this cause and their non-consideration of the rights of the 
 sex. 
 
 On the whole, it was rather pleasanter to turn from the 
 habits of the courts, to hear of the material difference between 
 theory and practice in a case Avhich occurred in the nature 
 of an ecclesiastical assault and battery. It is that the Roman 
 priest. Father Dougherty, was of those good round bodies, fair, 
 fat, and forty, and portly as well — not unlike the Justice of 
 Shakespeare's Comedy, whose fat round belly was with good 
 capon lined — such was this excellent priest. But he was elo- 
 quent, belonged to the church militant, and on one occasion he 
 took occasion to reprove certain of his congregation in pretty 
 sharp language, which so shocked the son of an honest Irish- 
 man, who was of the same faith, that he jumped to his feet — 
 
110 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 because lie chafed under smart of tliis chastening lectare 
 which had been aimed at his father — and said boldly to the 
 parish priest, Father Dougherty, " You lie." Thereupon there 
 was a conflict of arms, and a tussle ; the people became excited 
 in the interior of the church ; all rose, some shrieked, others 
 screamed ; and a scene ensued bearing rather the aspect of a 
 fight at Donnybrook Fair, in their old home in " Eriu-go-bragh," 
 The result was, that Father Dougherty bled at the nose, and 
 was not seen for several daj's afterwards, when he appeared 
 at his balcony with a pipe in his mouth and a bandage round 
 his face. This father in the church was no bigot, and was very 
 popular with the townsfolks — could talk more than one or two 
 languages, and was a gentleman and a scholar. The affair blew 
 over in a few days, and he was never the less beloved by his 
 flock, from this recent little exhibition of his spariing and 
 lighting qualities. 
 
 With the enumeration of several very pleasant chats that 
 we had with several of the citizens, and the attendance at 
 the house of one of the oldest inhal)itauts of the place, who 
 invited us to a tea-drinking, at his elegant mansion, near the 
 Flour mills which he owned, and from Avhich he manufoc- 
 tured an excellent brand of flour; we were entertained very 
 socially, and we were made to feel quite at home in the 
 society of the ladies at his house. 
 
 He was one of the pioneers of the place, one of the men 
 who had met with Indians in their time, and was still in the 
 prime of life, active, energetic, and strong. Every enterprise 
 was imder his charge, and he still took a lively interest in 
 all that would contribute to the increase and prosperity of 
 this city. We have lingered much at this point of our 
 sojourn, fur wc remained a longer time here than we had 
 anticipated. It was our chief delight, however, to come back 
 
FllOJI THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. HI 
 
 in the pleasant parlors of my liost, and tliere to enjoy tlie 
 fire-side comforts and agreeable repose, and rests of a house 
 held and kept by a gentleman in the midst of his family and 
 friends. 
 
 But we cannot depart without our tribute of meet praise 
 and thanks to her who was the partner of his bliss and love, 
 and shared his company, of whom it may be said, as 
 
 " Even the light hare-bell raised its head 
 Elastic from her airy tread ; " 
 
 who, when she had pledged her troth, and united in marriage, 
 acted out her part in keeping it. 
 
 " For lo I thy kuv is passed 
 That this my love should niauifestl}' ho 
 To serve and honor thee : 
 And so I do ; and my delight is full 
 Accepted for the servant of thy rule. 
 Without all, I am all, 
 Since this my will was set." 
 
 With such women as these, the society of Ilonesdale was 
 complete ; and with its location rendered beautiful by its 
 snug position, at an elevation of one thousand feet above the 
 sea, containing a Park. Two or three lively rapid streams in 
 the embrace of the surrounding hills, and mountains and cliffs ; 
 it presented to our sojourn a continual state of refreshment and 
 surprise. We cannot leave it, Avithout again referring to the 
 little angel in the house, the lovely little Lucy ; the only child, 
 and of that it might be said with the poet : 
 
 "Two years she grew in sun and shower. 
 Then Nature said, a lovelier ilower 
 
 N 
 
112 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APAKT. 
 
 On earth was never sown. 
 This cliild, I to myself will take ; 
 She shall be mine, and I will make 
 
 A lady of my own." 
 
 Tims parting with sucli a family, it was like that sweet 
 sorrow by which we might say good-by until to-morrow. 
 So we had to leave, and on Tuesday morning at early day, we 
 took the same stage which had conducted us here, with the 
 same driver, but with another team of four black horses, and 
 one of which was one of the very deuce of a plunging and 
 kicking animal, in its unsubdued nature ; but we did not forget 
 to take this receipt for the Hanover Pudding, which we leave 
 for the benefit of cooks. 
 
 One cup of sweet milk; one cup of molasses; three cups of 
 flour ; one teaspoonful of soda ; one cup of raisins ; one cup 
 of suet, chopped very fine ; one teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Boil three hours, to be served with wine sauce. 
 
 Which from our experience from tasting it several times, 
 will be sure to be pleasant to your palates, 
 
 " For the elements are composed of seven, 
 
 And it only requires the addition of leaven 
 
 To make it very superior and fine ; 
 
 But be sure you boil it three hours, and serve up sweetly with wine." 
 
1 
 
 g 
 
 s 
 
 IM 
 
 s 
 
 €l)aptcr 11. 
 
 " Lamp of life, thy lips are burning 
 
 Throngh the veil that seems to hide them, 
 As the radiant lines of morning 
 Through thin clouds, ere they divide them." 
 
 Shellei/. 
 
 "Of all God's works, which doth this world adorn, 
 There is no one more faire, and excellent. 
 Than is man's body both for power and forme 
 While it is kept in sober government. 
 But none that is more foul and indecent 
 Distempered through misrule and passion base." 
 
 The grey mist left the mountain side, and the torrents of rain 
 which had fallen on the night before, closed in their glittering 
 pride on the morning that we left the hospitable mansion of 
 our friend, while bright hues of the morning sunlight shot up 
 towards the crown of the blue firmament, ere we were con- 
 scious of the change made by the multitude of clouds which 
 were scattered through the circle of the sty. As we passed 
 along the highways and byways of the town on our departure 
 from the city, the driver had to repeat his usual accommodat- 
 ing round of civilities. After he had proceeded through the 
 routine of his calls for the passengers who were waiting, besides 
 ourselves, at their various homesteads, we returned again to the 
 inn, in order to take up an unfortunate man, who was the last 
 
114 DIUFT THOUGHTS — 'WIDE APART. 
 
 to be lifted into the stage by his fathcr-iu-law, who had 
 brought him to that point in a country wagon. 
 
 There was no further incident after we had left, nor until 
 Ave were on our way to tlic town of Seeleyvillc, when we were 
 called upon to notice the lifting up of the sky, and that there 
 was a promise of a fair day before we should arrive at the 
 base of the Moosick mountains. To insure these signs of this 
 change of weather that we had prognosticated — for we have 
 always flattered ourselves that Ave Avere Aveather-Avise enough 
 to read the indications that had impressed us rather tiworably 
 before we had made up our minds to leave — Ave fostered this 
 hope, and watched the course of the clouds Avith marked atten- 
 tion, AA'hile their sIoav movement, so beautifully touched by 
 Shelley, reminded us of these lines : 
 
 " Underneath the young grey dawn, 
 A multitude of dense, white fleecy clouds 
 Were wandering in thick flakes along the mountains, 
 
 Shepherded by the sloio, univilUng 20md,^^ — 
 
 which, if you Avill closely Avatch for the next sunset, you 
 Avill see the perpetual shiftings which then occurred in the 
 varied gradation and peculiar beauty of the colors as you ride 
 along the sides of any mountain-pass in the world, and observe 
 the peculiar arrangement of those fleeting and mystical kaleido- 
 scopic effects in the heavens above your head. 
 
 But a sad state of feeling and sympathy for the crazy man 
 Avhom Ave Avere carrying along inside the coach, rather pained 
 us, and might have provoked to a state of nielancholy, had not 
 the approach to the bustling and busy little manufacturing 
 I'illage of Seeleyville produced a pleasanter mood in our disposi- 
 'ion. Here 
 
FilOJI THE SEA TO THE SUJIMITS. 115 
 
 " All was the gift of Induatrj ; whate'er 
 Exalts, embellishes, and renders life 
 Delightful." 
 
 TJiomscn^s Autumn. 
 
 Verily, " what shades we are, what shadows we pursue." 
 Here was a chiaroscuro in reality, depicting a shadow of human 
 life. It has been falsely said, " that ever there was intercourse 
 between the living and the dead." Here the dead calm of a 
 once noble breast, heaved wdth but the deep heavings of a 
 constant ejaculation of the sound of the words, " It hurts 1 
 It hurts 1 " continually breathed forth, with only one change 
 \ipon the same key-note of despair, " Oh ! It hurts ! It hurts ! " 
 It seems that he had been formerly an active farmer in the 
 neighborhood ; and this shock in the condition of his mind 
 had been produced by a severe congestion of the lungs, 
 brought by exposure to the rough elements to which this class 
 of laborers are subjected in their out-of-door occupations dur- 
 ing the heavy rains and storms of the winters and springs, and 
 that this disease subsequently terminated in the softening of 
 his brain. He was now under the charge of this relative by 
 marriage, who was taking him to the asylum of Harrisburg. 
 
 The coach was full, and among the passengers were several 
 ladies. We doubt the expediency (to say nothing of the want 
 of consideration for the feelings of others) exhibited by this 
 gentleman. Such scenes as these are, to say the least, very 
 unpleasant for ladies to witness ; and the effects of his treat- 
 ment during the ride to Carbondale, and even as far as Scran- 
 ton, were such as can only be better imagined than described. 
 We all deemed it a piece of brutality throughout; and it 
 would have been far more reasonable and discreet towards all 
 parties concerned, to have borne him to the retreat of the in^ 
 
116 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 sane in a private carriage, and thus have placed liim out of the 
 way of the reproaches which were frequently thrown in his 
 teeth. He Avas rather dragged than led along into the hal s of 
 the hotel by one, while another pushed him hastily up-stairs 
 into a room, and kept him there confined without fire or 
 food. Truly, "Man's inhumanity to man makes countless 
 thousands mourn ;" and we add, save us from our fathers-in-law, 
 and also from our mothers-in-law, and all other like friends as 
 these, who are but poor Job's comforters at the best. We had 
 him afterwards in the tram-way-railroad and in the cars ; but 
 were finally relieved of him at Scranton. Poor fellow, how 
 we pitied him ! 
 
 " There he was, as a presence or a motion — ono 
 Among the many there — while tlie mists 
 Flying, and rainy vapors, called out shapes 
 And phantoms from the crags and sohd earth, 
 As fast as a musician scatters sounds 
 Out of an instrument." 
 
 The whole burden of his cry that " It hurts " was occasioned 
 by the fact, that those who had him in keeping had placed a 
 pair of new shoes upon his feet to cover his stockings, when 
 he was being prepared for his journey to the Asylum ; and, 
 although they were removed, and he sat without any shoes on, 
 but very comfortably hosed and clad, he still imagined they 
 were on ; and we were obliged to listen to the cries, which he 
 continued to heave forth for the space of twelve hours. Verily, 
 were it not that the words were hallowed and sanctified by our 
 Divine Lord, this man suffered as we never before heard from 
 the sound of human lips, as if he had almost, if not altogether, 
 been abandoned to his fate, and left alone in the Avorld, with 
 
FUOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 117 
 
 none to pity him. " Eloi ! Eloi ! lama Sabaclithani. Mj 
 God ! My God ! why hast thou forsaken me ? " 
 
 " When we in our viciousness grow hard, 
 Oh ! misery ou't, the wise gods seal our eyes 
 In our own filth, drop our clear judgments, make us 
 Adore our errors, laugh at us, while we strut 
 To our confusion ! And thus while moving 
 Onward, hope and fear alternately swayed his breast. 
 Like light and shade upon the waving field 
 Coursing each other, when the flying clouds 
 Now hide, and then reveal the sun." 
 
 Home's Tragedies. 
 
 What more sad than the picture set forth in the man 
 whose intellect is darkened, and the light is out in the human 
 mind; but more pitiable still arc the influences which have 
 been brought to bear on many of those impotent creatures, 
 whose friends often find it more convenient to put them out 
 of the way of any kinder treatment, finding it easier to use 
 them more as our inhuman people deal with an old family 
 horse — by putting them out to grass, like Nebuchadnezzar, to 
 pasture among the beasts of the field, because they are of no 
 further use to them in this world, and they serve their own 
 purposes as well under a committee appointed for the guardi- 
 anship of lunatics, while the subservient janitors, lynx-eyed, 
 who wait upon and watch the patients, are more interested in 
 the prolongation of their imprisonment, so long as they are 
 sure of getting their pay from the trustees, while they are held 
 in such a chancery of hopeful suspense and enduring disap- 
 pointment. How true it happens in some conditions of such 
 cases of incompetency, 
 
 " That where ignorance is bliss 
 'Tia folly to be too wise, as to those who axe 
 
118 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 Kept iu these dark chambers for diseased brains, 
 Canst thou pluck out the rooted sorrow? 
 Therein the patient must minister to himself." 
 
 Let US dwell no longer on sucli a disagreeable topic, and 
 turn our attention to subjects of a more genial nature, and 
 look at the pleasant time Ave had after we had passed over the 
 mountains, leaving the Moosick range in the rear ; and at that 
 holding in our memories, the grand views we obtained from 
 the summit over the plains of the agricultui'al lands behind us, 
 and ill its range embracing a retrospect as far as the Catskill 
 Mountains in the remote distance. 
 
 Such prospects open the mind to the grandest panoramas of 
 landscape, and give delight and refreshment to the soul. The 
 laughing, rippling rock trickling over Lackawaxen, is now 
 bounding on its way to the ocean by its swift transport 
 through the Mohawk river, and the steeds are breasting over 
 the crown of the last ridge which has separated us from a 
 new sight of the beautiful valley of Lucerne. 
 
 Wayne County is passed, and the rocky roadstead becomes 
 flinty and slaty, and hard for the team of the reeking four-in- 
 hand, which are steaming from sweat, and chafing at their 
 bits ; they are now breathing and foaming at the mouth ; they 
 feel the fatigues of the journey. Beyond, held within the 
 blue marginal of the West Mountains, lie the charming 
 groupings of scenery, spreading in graceful curvatures of 
 strength before the outlines of Carbondalc and the coal 
 ranges, beyond the wooded hills that are purpling with the 
 changes of autumn, where the anthracite is held up in the deep 
 basins which are bubbling over from the outlets of the Lacka- 
 wanna river. Here is the fountain of its springs, and its 
 course is rapidly running its race, until it is found again behind 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 119 
 
 the far-off valleys of glorious splendor, -where the grandest 
 development of the slate, and tl)e croppings out of the coals 
 through the plateaus of the carbonic lodes beneath, appear. 
 The descent to the valley was gentle and slow, for the driver 
 held the reins over the fiery mettle of spirited steed ; one of 
 which Avas a blooded mare, wliich he had been trying his 
 hand to break in for a friend on trial, with a view to her pur- 
 chase by the stage company. She had kicked hard, and 
 plunged and reared in the stable in the morning before start- 
 ing out, she balked, struggling to lie down in the stall ; and 
 was very ugly all along the road ; but he managed the beast 
 very handsomely, and the creature knew it well, for she had 
 found her master, and her mate beside her pulled her along as 
 well as any skilful pilot on the Lachine rapids in Canada; but from 
 the traces she tried her best to kick for the first ten miles of 
 the ride ; she succumbed at last, and was so subdued at the 
 latter six miles' station from the goal to which we were bound, 
 that she kept quiet as a lamb ; smoothing along down the hill 
 as w^e were descending, as meekly as if she had been tackled 
 into a brake-waggon from the time of her birth. She thus had 
 proved a Kate in the morning, but a Petruchio had broken her 
 in before noon. It is no wonder, therefore, that the French 
 people, as Sanders said, called their mothers "Meres," and how 
 often are they broken down by their fillies in tlie days when 
 these become old enough to " feel their oats." 
 
 While we were descending the last hill, before our arrival at 
 Caibondale, the driver was narrating to us his experiences 
 along this part of the road in winter w'hen the ice binds the 
 whole surface of the passage downward, with its tight and 
 smooth embrace making it fearfully dangerous and hazardous 
 by the sharp fall of its declination. He told us that the only 
 way in which he could surmount this dilficulty, was to let the 
 
120 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APAKT. 
 
 horses out with a free rein, while he pushed down the brake 
 or iron drag-shoe by his foot, to check the headway which was 
 bearing us down with a rushing speed, thus guiding it surely 
 until he could strike the dry dirt of the level below, at the base 
 of the mountain. He had driven over this road for scvei'al 
 years, and was as safe in taking the risk, as any old pilot who 
 had guided a bark over the Lachine rapids in Canada. 
 
 We had arrived at the hotel just in time to dine ; and 
 after getting our beard shaved off under the hand of a barber 
 who had just returned from a cruise in the Navy, during the 
 late war, we were entertained by this amiable disciple of St. 
 Crispin, who had as handsome a face as any Italian that 
 we ever saw, who meekly performed the operation of lathering 
 our chin ; his hard life thus showing, that on his return to the 
 civil pursuits of daily labor, he could lay down his arms and 
 turn his attention to the mild arts of peace, under whose 
 benign influence he was contented to remain, be the business 
 only that of a barber ; it was his line of duty, " not less 
 honored in the breach than in the observance," and therein, 
 like the barber of Seville in the opera, he could cat hair as 
 well as capers ; and so followed up the rule : — that, 
 
 "A servant with this clause 
 Makes drudgery diviue ; 
 Who sweeps a room as for thy laws, 
 Makes that and the action fine." 
 
 Thus he proved lord of himself — that heritage of woe ! 
 After dinner at the " Harrison House," we sauntered out 
 about town, to discover the lodging-place of our friend Henry 
 
 T , he who had taken us to the small settlement of the 
 
 " Indian Orchard," where he had invited us to visit a small 
 Sabbath School, to which several children had been gathered 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 121 
 
 from the iieighborliood, to be taught under the instruction of a 
 pious uncle ; it was his duty on this occasion to open the 
 school, and Iceej) up the usual Sabbath exercises and services 
 which had been established there by hira ; but on account of 
 his absence, we took it in charge ; and while we were there, 
 enjoyed the opportunity of testifying our belief that those 
 Christians who lack the privilege of becoming ministers of 
 the gospel by ordination, may still have a peculiar duty to 
 perform in such a post of honor as this. For as laymen they 
 may take the lead, and be examples to others instead of follow- 
 ers. Even those who have gone forth alone, need not be 
 afraid to come forward boldly on the Lord's side. They will 
 have strength and power given them from above to help their 
 weakness. 
 
 The purity and might of their motives will be the means of 
 prevailing upon others ; after a while they will have no longer 
 to go alone to the cross of Christ, the throne of grace, to the 
 house of God, — but in company of those who once stood 
 aloof, or before even opposed, and in the communion of the 
 innumerable body of the angels in heaven looking down upon 
 thffm while they pray together, he who came into the church 
 to scoflF, may leave to pray ! Here was one instance in a very 
 useful youth, who was converted through the instrumentality 
 
 of the senior Mr. K . lie was now in charge of the 
 
 school library, and " he who converts a sinner from the error of 
 his ways, shall save a soul from death and hide a multitude of 
 «ins." 
 
 This bright and faithful follower of his uncle, was another 
 proof of the fact that the deeds of pious relatives do follow 
 them ; for Ave found him here in charge of the Engineering 
 Department, which had been established at this point by the 
 Delaware and Hudson Coal and Canal Company ; and he was 
 
 a 
 
122 DRIFT THOUGHTS "WIDE APAET. 
 
 very polite and kind to us wliile \vc remained ; and after 
 having introduced us to his cousin, who was at the books in 
 an adjoining room, -we were sliown by him into tlie office of 
 the engineers, which was located, with the books and plans, 
 with their safes, in an upper story, where he traced out for our 
 observation their mode of establishing what arc called tbe 
 property lines for the regular workings of the shafts, thereby 
 showing the courses and directions of tlie drifts, wliich bad 
 been very exactly and accurately plotted out, so as to facilitate 
 the action of the miners wlio should be at Avork under ground, 
 with their picks at the lodes of coal. These were so neatly 
 drawn, that in their cellular construction they reminded us of 
 those little octagonal chambers which the bees build for the 
 deposit of their honied stores. 
 
 Our longer stay Avas shortly after interrupted from any 
 more extended examination of the operations under his charge; 
 for the stage which was to carry us of}", was now stopping at 
 the door, to hasten us away to the upper tramway by which 
 we were to be gravitated towards Scranton ; so we left him 
 very suddenly, wishing him " god-speed," and that his body 
 might prosper even as his soul did ; for he Avas a pious 
 gentleman, and a true Christian in heart and deed ; for our 
 proper definition of piety is, true religion in action ; thus he 
 exhibited by his life, that they Avho follow the Avords of the 
 wise shall enjoy the rewards of Avisdom Avith all her gifts and 
 blessings in this world; and showed Iioav favorably he had 
 carried out the example set him by his devout uncle Josiah. 
 
 " He who maintained always in his bearing soul; 
 That awful independent on to-morrow, 
 "Whose yesterdays look backwards Avith a smile." 
 
 While his nephew, from Ids own keen observation of all 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 123 
 
 tlie members of the spiritual family of the same ancestral 
 name and* stock as himself, was well worthy of earning that 
 tribute of immortal praise for any man's endeavors, whose 
 heart sMnes in his face with all the charms of grace and 
 sweetness, as he comes forth into the world, that we may 
 enjoy his influence and fellowship, which is so impressive that 
 it may be felt; for he cannot but do good, even without preten- 
 sion — without effort. 
 
 " When such a man, familiar with the skies, 
 Has filled his urn where those pure waters rise, 
 And once more mingles with us nearer things, 
 'Tis e'en as if an angel shook his wings — 
 Immortal fragrance fills the circuit wide, 
 Which tells us whence his treasures are supplied.** 
 
€l)aptcr 13. 
 
 SCRANTON. 
 
 Enraptured and delighted with all that we had seen and heard 
 since we left Honcsdale, excepting the sad epic of the lunatic, 
 which still sicklied us over with a pale cast of thought, Ave 
 hurried along the course of our rapid railway descent until we 
 stopped outside the lines of New Providence, and left the cars 
 near the depot, Avhich just lands you alongside of the Avooden 
 Avails Avhich fence in the large Model Casting Foundry and 
 Machine Avorks of jSIr. Davis, the Iron Manufacturer at this, 
 the very outskirts of the bustling and dusty and busy city of 
 Scranton ; Avith its head and front of iron, and boAvcls of coal, 
 Avhich lie under your feet as you Avalk over them. 
 
 The founder of this place is noAv no longer among the living ; 
 but the place is still called after his name, and his memory Avill 
 survive him for ages, until all the clay, and iron, and slate, Avith 
 the beds of coal, shall have become smelted together in that 
 everlasting furnace of fire, when the heavens shall be rolled up 
 as a scroll, and the new heavens and the jicav earth shall arise 
 out of the ashes, like the Phcenix, for the foundation of the 
 New Jerusalem, and Paradise shall be established on earth, 
 under the title of the City of Zion. 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 125 
 
 " There are in tliis loud stunning tide 
 
 Of human care and crime 
 "With whom the melodies ahidc 
 
 Of the everlasting- chime ; 
 "Who carry music in their heart, 
 
 Through dusky lane and wrangling mart ; 
 Plying their tread with busier feet, 
 
 Because their secret souls a holy strain repeat." 
 
 Those wlio may have seen the Coliseum at Rome, and 
 viewed the circuit of its broken Avails, may conceive somewhat 
 of the splendor of that Capital of the Roman Empire in the 
 days of their Caesars. The Augustus, Caligula, or Nero, when 
 Christians were sacrificed at the lighted stake as in the times 
 of Juvenal, or during the scene exhibited when the dying 
 gladiator was butchered on the sands of the circus, to make a 
 Roman holiday, may look with pleasure at the contrast which 
 shines out in that more eloquent offering of praise and grati- 
 tude in these days, when the arts of peace have contributed 
 their tribute of holier sacrifice ; when we allow the beauties of 
 nature to raise our hearts in sweet and loving homage to the 
 will of our good and heavenly Father, and turn them into a 
 more acceptable sacrifice, together with all the offerings which 
 the several tasks and spheres of labor become, when seasoned 
 with the salt, they present a fit oblation from the honest 
 services of the laborers in this earthly vineyard, to be placed 
 by them in meek submission on the altar of His glory, who 
 first created, disposed, and preserved them all for our use, and 
 for His praise and glory. 
 
 jSTo one who has ever opened his eyes while wandering 
 over the seas and floods, waters and springs, mountains and 
 bills, valleys or dells, glens or cascades, waterfalls or wastes, can 
 ha\c fiiilcd to observe, that everything is in a preparatorj' 
 
126 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APAUT. 
 
 state for some grand coming event ; and tliere is a vast design 
 moving out in the gathering of the storms, the belching forth 
 of the volcanoes, the rich bounties of the fertile fields, the 
 glorious thoughts which God had when he made the moun- 
 tains, the upheaving of the water-spouts, the vast expanses of 
 the arid deserts, kept in reserve for the blossoming roses in 
 the wilderness, and all sending forth one triple union of strength 
 and power, majesty and grace, as if held in the embraces of 
 His outstretched and everlasting arms, who planted them on 
 the seas and founded them in the flood ; for ever singing and 
 ever praising, as they shine forth in their works, before the 
 universal man, for whom they were created, " The hand that 
 made them was divine." 
 
 Such was the influence on our minds Avhen we passed over 
 the Great Circle of the Lackawanna Railroad Company's 
 works, where they had erected a great establishment, built 
 solely for the housing of all the sixty locomotive engines 
 which were necessary for the perfect carrying out of the in- 
 corporators' needs — the ramification of whose lines of travel 
 now reach through the valleys of the DelaAvare, the Lehigh, 
 and the chain of the Northumberland Hills, and far beyond the 
 region of the Catawissa and Reading Railroads. While look- 
 ing from this stand-point, in our view from this round-house, 
 when we were inside the circle, we could not but regard it as 
 a palatial structure, for the accommodation of those leviathans 
 for embodied steam, which, in one form or other, will some day 
 thresh the mountains, like the worm of Jacob, into fine dust, 
 and control the world — whether associated with galvanic or 
 electric currents, or alone, as the mysterious ways of Provi- 
 dence shall determine —convert it into a more perfect habitation 
 for the various uses of mankind. We beheld in each monster 
 machine a vision of beauty and power, of superhuman strength 
 
FKOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 127 
 
 and might, such as Ezekiel had imagined when he viewed 
 under an inspired rapture, the fire unfolding itself, and the 
 brassy brightness about them, and out of the midst thereof as 
 of the color of amber, when by day they ran with their four- 
 winged wheels on their many side-faces, in the likeness of 
 living creatures, breathing out flames of fire ■with brilliant 
 sjiarks, shot out from their burning coals ; and as at night, 
 when the appearance of their lamps at their foreheads, while 
 they were moving up and down the earth, flashing with terrible 
 reflections from their Drummond crystals, glowing with a 
 glory like the sharpest emission of the fierce lightnings wliile 
 they moved along, and returned with a rushing noise, like the 
 voice of many waters, when they stopped at rest and let down 
 their wings with a silence, as still as the soft breathings of an 
 infant sleeping. 
 
 How perfect, then, was the picture as it appeared to the 
 holy Saint, who beheld in it the brightness of an archangel's 
 revelation ! and no wonder, when he saw it, that the prophet 
 fell upon his face in his adoration, for he had recognized there- 
 in the Holy Spirit of God ! 
 
 We were soon passed out from our observation of this splen- 
 did building into the adjoining wings, where the repairs of 
 their engines were carried on in all the branches of fitting up 
 old machines, and in mending such as required only parts to 
 complete them or to restore them for their use on the roads. 
 
 Most of the heavy locomotives were made elsewhere, either 
 at Philadelphia or at Newark, and were named after several of 
 the directors of this company. AVe took occasion, therefore, 
 to leave the details of the repairs to the workmen and super- 
 intendent inside, and stepping outside, enjoyed a view of the 
 panorama which was presented from the exterior of both these 
 buildings. The whole aspect of the surrounding country was 
 
128 DIUFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 quite fully appreciated, from the fact that the city of Scranton 
 is so admirably located, that you can look at its whole extent 
 as you turn your eyes in every direction round about the basin 
 ii v/hich it lies. 
 
 Thus, at every point of the compass, you can see each par- 
 ticular feature of the landscape. At one side, on the declivity 
 of the hills in front, the residences of the many laborers pre- 
 sent a very cheerful appearance from a thousand little, neatly- 
 appointed, and moderate-sized cottages, which were mostly 
 whitewashed, so that at this distance they dotted the hill-side 
 with an eftect that seemed as if they had been built of porce- 
 lain. 
 
 You may be sure that it was a very pretty sight, and cheered 
 the eyes with its gladsome evidences of comfort and heartfelt 
 welcome home, which we could imagine was awaiting the re- 
 turn of the workmen, who were soon about to centre around 
 the tea-tables on that evening, and then many of them to re- 
 sume their tasks, which the}"^ had to continue all night. 
 
 Thence looked we outward to the graceful, crown-crest 
 forms of the western hills, behind whose purpling shadows of 
 changeable outlines sank the rosy light of the vanishing sun- 
 set, while far remote, the eye could trace the barriers that 
 fronted the passage of the river Lackawanna, which was gather- 
 ing its waters to meet the Susquehanna, at the beautiful bridge 
 before Pottsville, where the first coal mines of the valley are to 
 be met with, at which point these two rivers unite, and thence 
 flow along in one current into the valley of Wyoming, while 
 in front of us rose the entire limits and buildings of the city 
 of Scranton, which stood out in bold relief against the sky, 
 which AY as fringed with golden tints, behind the edges of 
 which, at its northern extremity, the fonner stream was thresh- 
 ing out its troubled waters under the breastworks of the superb 
 
FKOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 129 
 
 railroad tunnel, through whose dark Avays tlie course of travel 
 is carried along to the lines of the Pennsylvania and Erie 
 Road. Thus, the whole circumference of the coal basin was 
 embraced, and the prospect sank away from further observa- 
 tion while night closed upon the scene. And we could not 
 but remark that the ridges of these hills, which formed a girdle 
 around the coal ranges at this point, had a lower grade of ele- 
 vation than that which was observed by us while passing over 
 higher mountains, in the vicinity of the Moosick, and here 
 determined the full panorama of our preconceived notion, that 
 this valley had been rounded out in the proper form of a cul- 
 de-sac, such as nature only could have marked out, under the 
 eye of Him who surveys all the downward tracks of time, and 
 ordained the whole administration of creation, also ordered 
 the lines of this deposit, amidst the whirlpools of the diluvian 
 torrents : that he also so regulated the casting disposition of the 
 lot of this formation : that it appeared to us as if it had fallen 
 in the lap of an extinct volcano, and left here in this forehead 
 of the beautiful valley, beyond, a crater of coal, which was after 
 all but a bridal of that pre-existent Deluge, and as some of the 
 results of the storms which had been planted by the whirl- 
 Avinds. We shall never forget the opportunities afforded us 
 during this tour, which had been started for recreation and the 
 benefit of our health, but resulted in bringing us to a nearer 
 view of the intimate connexion existing between things of the 
 earth and heaven. What was intended for our delight, was 
 turned into an exhibition of His praise and glory. 
 
 " Why should the wonders He has wrought 
 Be lost iu sileuce and forgot?" 
 
 All the Avoods yield their homage, in the shape of floating^ 
 logs passing down the magnetic current of the streams, when 
 
 0* 
 
130 DEIFT THOUGHTS — AVIDE APART. 
 
 changed to rafters and beams for the building of our temples, 
 ■wherein are lifted up the songs of joy and sounding hymns 
 of praise in harmony to heaven : and by the infusion of the 
 forest leaves through the fissures of the coal beds, as the blood 
 runs through the veins, stamping the beautiful impression of 
 the flowers, as well as the fems, often with prismatic colors of 
 painted glory — which are but percolations of the carbonic 
 acids which instilling silvery nitrates, washed with oxygen, 
 beam forth from the uplifted carbonate of salts their fertile pro- 
 ducts, to gratify our sight and furnish imagery for the inspired 
 themes of the poet, that being who was chartered to hallow 
 the sacred toils of the laborer, who earns his bread by the oozing 
 sweat of his brow. Take the pattern of the drains on the hills 
 of an impervious subsoil, and you have a plan to get at the 
 drifts from the shafts, which arc sunken for the miners work- 
 ing underneath the ground. The undulations which are dis- 
 covered in the circumvallation of the lodes of coal around the 
 base of the eminences, which vary in alternate depths of slate 
 and coal from three to five or seven feet in depth, are but the 
 tricklings of carbonated springs, or outpourings of the arterial 
 discharges from their impregnation of yeasting oxygen, which 
 are forced by the vis inertice of nature to form a parallel of an 
 harmonious design which runs throughout the universe, in 
 order to testify to the goodness of the Divine Master, who will 
 yet compel man to declare His praise, and acknowledge that 
 all science ultimately returns to its first edict in the Genesis of 
 Creation, that they perfectly illustrate this truth, that all reli- 
 gion Avas intended solely for one purpose : the requirements 
 and the exigencies of mankind, who were first made in His 
 image. 
 
 With these ideas jiararaount in our mind, we were accom- 
 panied by our friend, to inspect the great furnaces Avhich had 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 131 
 
 been established here, for the rolling of railroad iron into rails. 
 Wc entered this pandemonium of fire at about eight o'clock in 
 the evening, and were shown over the whole extent of a build- 
 ing, which was covered at the roof for about four hundred feet. 
 The first objects which struck our attention, were a number of 
 pockets of melting brightness, that were filled with a mass of 
 ore that was kept in suspension in a range of ovens which were 
 placed under the caves, and thence the melted iron, in rivers 
 of flame, was poured into a great furnace, where the metal 
 was fused into a white heat, the doors of which were continu- 
 ally opened by the stokers, who poked up the red-hot matter, 
 and kept constantly stirring it up, so as to distribute the heat 
 equally at all points of the furnace. We looked into one of 
 these and were astonished at the intense brilliancy with which 
 the blocks of heated iron glowed, and with a furious roaring 
 while smelting, it blazed up and flooded out, whitened, and 
 then bursted in its madness; and when the tremendous trip- 
 hammer fell down, with a heavy thump like artillery, it ex- 
 ploded with a violent noise, louder than that of gunpowder at 
 a cannon's discharge. 
 
 Then we were taken to see the process of rolling out the 
 rails. The large, square blocks of metal, heated at white heat, 
 were taken across the floor on wheelbarrows, and passed 
 through the several ruts of the crushing stamps and over the 
 grooves of the cogs, where they were brought out and run 
 through the gauges at the proper sizes for use. As they 
 hastily thrust it through, a myriad of shooting sparks flew out 
 throughout the whole buUding and scattered widely in all 
 directions over the floor; and a more brilliant constellation of 
 light can scarcely be imagined than that scattering of flying 
 fire-flies, sparkling as they shot over our heads. It was as if 
 all tlic rockets from castle St. Angelo had been thrown into 
 
132 BHIFT THOUGHTS — AVIDE APART. 
 
 the sky, at the celebration of the festival of Easter, in Rome, 
 (when te:i thousand sky-roekets fly into the air). From this 
 ebullition of heat, we could readily conceive how the constella- 
 tions in the heavens Avere formed, and how the firmament might 
 melt with a fervent heat. It is doubtless true that the same 
 result occurred, as when by rudely rubbing two sticks together 
 the huntsman, or the Indian before him, obtained fire to light 
 his pipe ; and if you consider with what velocity this earth is 
 moving around the sun, and all the planets are whirling about 
 the firmament, you may easily conceive hoAv the sun and the 
 stars, the bright nebulae and all the gorgeous constellations of 
 the galaxy in the heavens, were created by centripetal and 
 centrifugal motion, producing heat from a rapidity of motion 
 which is incomprehensible to man, because he is finite ; and 
 He who produced lightning, and flashed its fires across the 
 seas, can alone account for this and other evidences of His 
 immediate presence : who gives no other signs of His mighti- 
 ness than these and other instances exhibited by His instru- 
 mentalities, such as the light, the lightning, the telegraph, and 
 other approximation of the nigh approach and influences which 
 are some of the gifts of His Holy Spirit. Now, His thouglits 
 are not our thoughts, neither are His ways our ways ; for His 
 are, " Thoughts that breathe, and words that burn ;" and as to 
 our ideas, says Pope : — 
 
 " 'Tis with our judgments, aa our watches ; none 
 Go just ahke, yet each beheves his own." 
 
 After this striking exhibition of pyrotechnics on one of the 
 grandest scales we had ever witnessed, from this magazine of 
 sparks and brilliant scintillations, we were conducted out of the 
 building into the dark ; there was nothing to guide us ; the 
 stars, those jewels of the sky above, were glimmering with a 
 
FROM THE SKA TO THE SUMMITS. 133 
 
 faint light as we stumbled over a pile of ru'obisli and heaps of 
 sand that lay under an archway, before the large smelting 
 foundry. We were introduced into a Avide frame-shed, and 
 then led to examine the crater of a large caldron, the open 
 doors of which exposed the process by which two kinds of 
 iron ore were being fused from different materials, which had 
 been brought here from the mines of Chemung County and 
 elsewhere, in order to cast a more excellent iron than any that 
 could be found in this vicinity. The two mixed together 
 made the best puddling for use. But we were more amazed 
 by a sight that Ave had of the huge fans through which the air 
 was forced, to make a proper fusion of the ores that Avere to 
 be smelted. These Avere blown into action by a pennanent 
 current of Avind thrown through two long iron pipes or tubes, 
 as large almost as one of our largest steamboat funnels ; and 
 these constant currents were generated by means of two im- 
 mense engines, Avhich were kept under the shelter of an adjoin- 
 ing brick edifice, the poAver of each varying from twenty to 
 twenty -two hundred horse poAver ; these Avere real personifica- 
 tions of old Boreas himself; and Avere made capable of bloAving 
 out a force equal to that of a great hurricane in the West 
 Indies, or a tornado of such strength as that which old Caliban 
 himself could not stop, in the " Tempest " of its mightiness. 
 The fire in the furnaces was constantly kept up, and never suf- 
 fered to go out, like those in Hades — Avhich are everlastingly 
 burning. 
 
 After this, there Avas nothing further to be seen that night. 
 We thought that Ave had already seen enough for one day, 
 Avhich included in this short period of our probation a sad 
 episode in the broken intellect of a maniac, and tAvo monsters 
 of leviathans under full blast. 
 
 Satisfied Avith the burden of such a picture of contrasts, and 
 
134 
 
 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDK APART. 
 
 dcliglitecl with all that \vc had seen, we parted Avith our guide 
 at the gate of the Wyoming Hotel, which is situated just 
 under the reach of the bell tower of Christ Church; and after 
 taking a candle from its porter, left our boots outside of room 
 No. 41, on the first floor of the inn, then gave a last look 
 at the lights on the street of the town, and slept quietly in a 
 bed of down in a blissful state of mind. 
 
i 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 ^s 
 
 ari)aptcr le. 
 
 TO WILKESBARRE. 
 
 "Tired Nature's sweet restorer, balmy sleep — 
 lie, like the worM, his ready visit pays 
 Where fortune smiles." 
 
 '* Arise, for it is liigli time for you to awake out of voui 
 sleep," said the porter, who knocked at my door the next 
 inorninp;, after tliis ing-cnious dreamer had passed through the 
 second nap in his shimbers, in whose reveries visions of sec •!:. 
 fiction and sweet truth had alike prevailed through the night, 
 " if you wisli to start by the ten o'clock morning train for 
 Wilkesharre." 
 
 We had, however, some time to spare after breakfast, which 
 was profitably improved by a review of the ground over which 
 we had passed the night before we left. The travellers were 
 now going further towards the west. The sun was now painting 
 the gay sky with his rays of gold, having risen with a brio-hter 
 array of beauty, and we were getting somewhat nearer the end 
 of our journey. But we lingered awhile to renew our visit to 
 the great steam-engines which were at work under a full head 
 of steam. 
 
 When these were thoroughly overlooked, v.'e passed out to 
 refresh our sio-ht over the whole realms of the nature of this 
 
loG DIIIFT THOUGHTS — AVIDE APART. 
 
 peculiar region, whicli was to complete our last retrospect over 
 its formation, its development, and its impression on our 
 minds. Here was presented a panorama of beautiful landscape, 
 held in a rotunda of lucrative and fruitful result, where the coal 
 seemed to have been gathered up in a deposit which served 
 the double purpose of having tripled the capital of a large and 
 enterprising company during the war, and to have rounded out 
 the features of this county of Lucerne into a centre of useful- 
 ness and harmonious action, that furnished to our imagination 
 the shape of a magnificent organ, or accordeon of a divine 
 instrumentality, wherein the fingers of an Almighty Master 
 were playing upon the key-board an everlasting symphony of 
 praise and harmonious sound. Hence were songs full of joy, 
 and cords on which the elements were striking out notes of 
 melodious issues oozing out with a delicacy and brilliancy of 
 touch, although handled by human instruments, where the flow- 
 ing streams were the strings which were Impressed into a voice 
 of sweet melodies, to measure these forces of the air, which 
 breathed through the currents of the magnetic rivers which, 
 impregnated with smooth channels of grace, struck into a 
 movement from their very centres, until with the associate 
 concert of the vitrifying and living waters, they burst out into 
 an anthem of beatitude and glory, with strains of heavenly 
 inusic, singing out until eventide, the never-ceasing, never- 
 ending themes that, in all the universe of the Creator, they 
 were made to display a unity of design. 
 
 Such were the songs of the angels when the morning stars 
 sang together in chorus, before the light appeared. That light 
 loas from the beginning, and the end and design of all things 
 was from God, while the incarnation of the universe is but 
 the revelation of the Son of God to man ; to the hidden ones, 
 who arc the initiated, there arc no mysteries. 
 
FllOU THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 137 
 
 The miracles reveal the conversion of earthly into heavenly 
 things, and Ave who believe here shall know all things, if we 
 follow on to know, and the saints shall judge the angels. 
 
 Let us now take another illustration from the human body, 
 and regard the formation of the coal in the bowels of our 
 common mother earth, as the great centre of its deposit, and 
 the action of the blood through the arteries and conduits of the 
 canals, and its coursings through the veins, ebbing and flowing 
 over the locks of the valves, as in a pump, from the aorta and 
 carotid arteries ; while the arms and the feet represent the 
 spurs and ridges of the adjacent and outstretched mountains, 
 and we have another parallel likeness of similar beauty. 
 
 Man himself is but a compendium of nature, and of that 
 all the movements of his being bear not only evidence of the 
 divinity which shapes our ends, rough-hew them as we will, 
 but of the fact that all his witty inventions are the types from 
 which he copies some part or portion of the action of the limbs, 
 as witness, in the rotary movement of the supple joints, the 
 swinging of the arms, those pendulums, the feet, and the locomo- 
 tion of the legs, so that the whole creature becomes a walking 
 steam-engine, holding a boiler in his stomach, a galvanic bat- 
 tery in his head, electricity in his nerves, and lightning flashes 
 out of his eyes when he is mad, or as in poetry, " with fine 
 frenzy rolling." There is a miracle of wonder in his movement 
 through the dense air ; he carries a thousand weight upon his 
 shoulders, so poised, as he silently and swiftly moves along- 
 through space, as though he were a beautiful lark sailing in 
 the sky ; and when at ease she drops on her wings at an 
 equipoise of repose. 
 
 Verily, 
 
 " They struggle vainly to preserve a part 
 "Who have not couracre to contend for all." 
 
138 DKIFT THOUGHTS MIDE APAKT. 
 
 Then blessed be the Lord, O thou my soul, who teacheth 
 my hands to war, and my fingers to fight, which words have no 
 less been strikingly improved by Shakespeare, where it is 
 written, 
 
 "Hcaveu does with us as we with torches do: 
 Not Ught them for ourselves ; for if our virtues 
 Did not go forth of us, 'twere all alike 
 As if we had them not. Spirits are not finely touched 
 But for fine issues, nor nature never lends 
 The smallest scruple of her excellence, 
 But like a thrifty goddess, she determines 
 Herself the glory of a creditor, 
 Both thanks and use. " 
 
 " The world is my oyster, 
 "WTiich 1 will open with my sword." 
 
 Shakespeare's Plays. 
 
ail)aptcr 17. 
 
 VALLEY OF WYOMING. 
 
 " strange ! that where nature loved to trace, 
 As if for gods, a dwellmg-place, 
 And every charm and grace had mixed 
 Within the Paradise slie fixed, 
 There man, enamored of distress. 
 Should war it into wilderness." 
 
 The next morning Ave were on our way, and shortly after ten 
 o'clock entered a beautiful valley through the gap in the 
 Western mountains, called the Lackawanna Gap. Following 
 the Susquehanna, Ave made our first stop at the depot, near 
 Pittston, Avhere the two streams join, and thenceforth mingle 
 their waters at the long bridge, just this side of the Lucerne 
 House, Avhich Avas built some time since for the accommoda 
 tion of a Philadelphia Coal Company ; and thence the latter 
 river continues its serpentine course about twenty miles, until 
 it leaves the valley through another opening in the same moun- 
 tain, called the " Nauticoke Gap." The high, perpendicular 
 bluffs of rocks that face these openings, which are only Avide 
 enough to admit the passage of the river, which runs on, vary- 
 ing in Avidth of from one hundred and fifty to two hundred 
 feet, with a depth of four to twenti^ are covered with a thick 
 
140 DRIFT THOUGHTS AVIDE APART. 
 
 growth of pine and laurel, that present a very fine appearance 
 when viewed from the road, as you are passing along their 
 bases, or from the railroad, hy the side of which it flows, with 
 a very gentle current, except at the rapids, or when swollen 
 with rains or melting snows. 
 
 On the front of the engineer's seat, with a good look-out at 
 the views now obtained, as we were hurrying along, overlook- 
 ing the beautiful scenery of the long plain, we enjoyed the 
 prospects of its mountains, and. the charms of this matchless 
 valley of America, whose praises have been sounded, in that 
 exquisite and imaginative poem, by the poet Campbell, who 
 had never seen it; although, what he has written in "Gertrude 
 of Wyoming" is so delicately true to nature, that it appeals 
 directly to the best feelings of the human heart : for imagina- 
 tion lends to " airy nothing a local habitation and a name." 
 And our owni poet Halleck, dreaming over this happy realm 
 of blissful imagery, in his fine, phrensied, rolling eye, has de- 
 picted this fine landscape, on which he has hung this fine 
 poetic garland, when he one day awakened into sudden song, 
 declaring as he gazed upon it : " Nature hath made thee lovelier 
 than the power — even of Campbell's pen had pictured." To 
 which Leigh Hunt has added : " Oh, happy privilege of genius" 
 (in speaking of Priam before Achilles), "that can reach out 
 his hand from a thousand years back, and touch our eyelids 
 with tears!" And it has been well expressed by another 
 writer, that this valley has even superior charms to those 
 inscribed in Dr. Johnson's ideal of the happy valley of Alhamra, 
 Avhich he describes as the perfection of an earthly abode. We 
 join our own tribute of praise and admiration for its impar- 
 alleled effects on our minds, as we moved over the long plains 
 of this delightful region ; for we have seen the valley of the 
 cnchaiitcd halls that hold the marble fountain of the sculp- 
 
FROH THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 141 
 
 tured lions, wLich, resting on the sharp edges of the mountains, 
 overlooking the sweet vales of Granada in old Spain. Wyom- 
 ing, once supposed to mean " a field of blood," but really found 
 to mean " the large plains," — Wyoming is the name now given 
 to what Avas once yclept Maugharauwama, in the dialect of the 
 Delaware Indians ; Maugwau meaning large, and warn a signi- 
 fying plains. This beautiful valley is situated along the river 
 Susquehanna, in the north-eastern part of the State of Penn- 
 sylvania. It is about three miles wide and twenty-five long, 
 and is embraced between two ranges of mountains nearly 
 parallel to each other, extending from the north-east to the 
 south-west. " Wyoming ! who has not heard the name of this 
 beautiful valley, through which the Susquehanna glides, fair 
 Wyoming," with her mountain walls, her story-telling glens, 
 her fruits and brooks, and maids as dewdrops pure and fair, 
 which the soul with grandeur fill and melody and love ? Who 
 has not heard too of her sad story ? Wyoming, thine was 
 indeed the fatal gift of beauty, that dowry which is so often 
 fraught with woe to its inheritors. For its possession and 
 enjoyment contending tribes of the redmen fought, and when 
 wrenched from their grasp with force, or fraud or treachery, 
 and white men bearing the casket of a better civilization had 
 come within her borders (to the fate of all the poor Indians 
 ever since that devil of fire-water, bad whiskey and glass 
 beads) : for he or she, Indian or squaw, is pleased luith a rat- 
 tle and tickled ivith a straw, and she had received the baptism 
 of blood as a seal; even then followed contentions and tumults 
 and bloody wars between factions of the palefaces. The issue 
 was to decide which should have her to hold and enjoy. It 
 is not to be wondered at that the poor Indian, untaught, sel- 
 fish by intuition, and believing in the law of might (" do ye 
 not believe in it," John Alorrissey and John C. Heenan ?) should 
 
142 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 have fought long and well to retain possession of tliat which 
 to him was a terrestrial paradise ? But why, after its posses- 
 sion by the white man had been secured, brothers with bro- 
 thers should contend, it is not designed by this humble his- 
 torian to explain, or account for by any other reason than that 
 which is stated by Gail Hamilton, that man is naturally a 
 savage by nature, and that blood is thicker than water in the 
 natural man, and can only be converted by the grace of God, 
 through the mediatory channels of both, issuing from His 
 cross. 
 
 We were riding on a rail, as we have before hinted, and in 
 order that we may yet get cleverly away from our digression, 
 in which we were interrupted casually, for we had been per- 
 mitted by the conductor of this train of cars to take a 
 cushioned scat in the rear sheltered box screen of the fire- 
 man, where we could see the large woodpiles of soft pine- 
 knots behind us, and prospect from an advanced position the 
 scenery along the plain of this blooming vale, while the steam- 
 engine was plunging deeply and snortingly on towards the end 
 of our ride to Wilkesbarre, We shall never forget the last 
 words spoken to us when we had parted with our friends 
 at Ilonesdale, — " Be sure to get on the front of the engine 
 when you are passing over the Valley of Wyoming." 
 
 We had never performed this feat before, except on a former 
 occasion when we rode alongside of the engineer, while we 
 were returning from the western part of New York, and were 
 coming home by way of the Erie road from a detour at Ge- 
 neva, after having left Elmira, and by a path through Bing- 
 hampton. Quick as a flash we were driven along; but the 
 bird's-eye view was not altogether unsatisfactory, although 
 the flight Avas rather rajiid. We enjoyed the whole trip 
 exceedingly. The view became really a land-skip, with a hop 
 
rnOM THE SEA TO TFIE SUMMITS. 143 
 
 and a skip and a jump, just as wlien, in old, in King David's 
 times, the mountains skipped like rams, and the little hills like 
 lambs, for joy ; but now seen from a jumping car, rattling over 
 the rough railroad, which so stirred up our emotions, steaming 
 ahead with a rush, as it came rolling along, that it kept us 
 from going to sleep. We never could or would read a news- 
 paper in the cars, because we thought too much of the value 
 of our eyes ; and, although we arc getting older every day, 
 still we flatter ourselves that nearsighted people have the bet- 
 ter of long-sighted ones ; for, the older we grow, the less need 
 we find for the use of spectacles. Our old grandmother could 
 thread her needle at ninety-four, and we enjoy an hereditary 
 weakness of the same kind, only we hope we may live to see 
 it so long as she did. Now it seems, as if we were getting 
 off the track a second time, and must return to say, that we 
 were delighted with the back views, as well as with the fore- 
 ground of the delightful pictures in this perspective, as our 
 frontispiece. For, while we w^cre thus slidden along, we saw 
 the beautiful purple lines of the plains as they were skirting 
 aslant the spurs of the western mountains, and the extended 
 length of the long valleys, all the while lessening in the dis- 
 tance, in the rear ; when at one point we were called by one 
 of the firemen to observe the form of the monument which 
 has been erected on the banks of the rolling and gentle river, 
 over the dead, who had been slain during the Butler and 
 Indian warfare. AVe observed that the people on the cars 
 were going to the races, and that there was plenty of horse- 
 talk, and some chances for betting on the favorite nags that 
 Avcre entered for the races on that day ; and away in the dim 
 distance, in the limits of the shady enclosure, we could trace 
 the white fences which had been built round the circle of the 
 race-course. Thus, with a sketchy outline of the promised 
 
14:4 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 harvest of enjoyment whicL we were going to reap from our 
 trip, as a pastime, during the vacations, in the valley, we bun- 
 dled up, for our anticipated gleanings, all the mountains and 
 rivers, waterfalls and plains, within all the groupings of our 
 excited and glowing fancy, and, mixing them together in the 
 rapid evolutions of an enraptured vision, we drew a conclusion 
 from what we had seen, that there v/as a great deal more to 
 be observed before we were to be dropped on the platform of 
 the last station, and landed at the depot near Kingston, where, 
 hastily, we collected all we had heard about the coal-beds to 
 form a farrago of rich medley to be bound up within one pro- 
 miscuous medley, with all that we had read about the ancient 
 fortifications, " the Flats," the Indian wars, the monuments, 
 legends, and tragedies, and rhapsodies of song, and to be 
 gathered into one great summary of deliglitful entertain- 
 ment for our future happiness, clasped all into our portfolios, 
 and then stopped short at the threshold of this paradise of 
 beautiful imagery, with this happy conclusion for our rest and 
 repose ; breathing out an expression of bright thoughts, glow- 
 ing in that joyous glee of delight that lias ever buoyed up 
 the hopes of many an eager and enthusiastic youth before us, 
 in the word, " Eureka ! " " AVe have found it," — and our eyes 
 were fully satisfied when Ave had reached this spot, while your 
 imagination must complete the picture, which far exceeded all 
 the reports we had ever heard about this favored land, where 
 there was found by us — 
 
 " ilauy a shade that love might share, 
 And many a grotto meant for rest," 
 
 where pure streams of water come leaping from the moun- 
 tains, imparting health and pleasure in their course ; all of 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 145 
 
 tLem abounding in delicious trout. Along the brooks find in 
 tlie vales, scattered through the upland, grew the wild plum 
 and the butternut, and the native grape may be gathered in 
 profusion, and the hazel-nut ripens in its rounded kernel. 
 Game is everywhere abundant. The quail whistles in the mea- 
 dow ; the pheasant rustles her wings aloud as she drums 
 reveille out on the bogs, in the hoary coverts ; the wild duck 
 bears her brood and bends the reed in every inlet; the red 
 deer feeds amid the thick copses, hidden on the distant, 
 wooded hills, while not many years ago the stately elk ranged 
 for pasture over the mountains ; and the rivers still yield their 
 supply of fish, — perch, pike, the cat-fish, and the roach in the 
 lakes and ponds, — while myriads of shad are caught in the 
 spring season, with nets and weirs that have been staked out 
 across the current of the streams. 
 
 The Susquehanna rolls her rippling waters under shadows 
 of the long, covered, wooden bridge, which bears its stream 
 over the shallows under the archway of the massive granite 
 piers that hold up the double plank-ways, over whose wooden 
 gangways all the travelling, busy public, and heavily-laden 
 wagons are constantly crossing across under the shelter of its 
 wooden roof. These bridges, which are strongly built, are re- 
 quisite for the spring freshets, which are raging through the 
 spring and fall, and are fearfully disastrous, from their damages ; 
 and so destructive have been the overflows at some seasons of 
 the year, that the town has been almost under the water, or so 
 far up as to reach the second-story floor of the stores, on the 
 streets, when the inhabitants have been obliged to move about 
 the streets in boats. We have only to say, as for ourselves, 
 give us a city built on a rock like that of Bethany, or a lodg- 
 ing on the sandy desert, with some boundless contiguity of 
 shade, oven under the shelter of a wide-spreading palm-tree in 
 
14G DKIFT THOUGHTS— WIDE APABT. 
 
 the wilderness, rather than have ourselves changed into water- 
 fowls, to be carried about in an ark, with all the cattle and 
 horses floating down the river, overwhelmed by the sad effects 
 of these mountain torrents. But sucb are some of the trials 
 of this life, which the flesh is heir to ; and since " stern neces- 
 sity knows no law," then, " to be or not to be " in the waters 
 of such a deluge, or out of the waters, is only a mere question 
 of time, wherein all have to bear alone our heavy burdens of 
 mishaps, vulgarly expressed by, " Every tub has to staud on 
 its own bottom ; " for there is not much difference in the 
 various conditions of mankind, because, — 
 
 " If thou art rich, thou art poor ; 
 For like an ass whose back with ingots bows, 
 Thou bear'st thy heavy riches but a journey, 
 And Deatli unloads thee. ' 
 
 So that in life we are all of us in the midst of death. 
 
 Some say let us live while we live, and drink and be merry, 
 adds the fool ; but the sage Seneca more wisely writes thus : 
 " Vita si scias uti longa est. The end of life is to do good, so 
 long as it lasts. 
 
ari)aptcr la 
 
 TO WILKESBARRE. 
 
 By one of these so-called improvements of the age, called 
 horse-rai! roads, we were dragged over the lines of the iron 
 ruts fi'ora the depot at Kingston ; and while passing over wo 
 were considering whether the changes that have been wrought 
 in this valle}^ by the wit and industry of man had not waned 
 mankind more than they bad benefited them. What an 
 obstruction of the rigbts of travel and all other civil privileges 
 they have already proved in our cities ! "We pray that a more 
 advanced privilege in civilization will lead to their entire dis- 
 placement, and the proper substitution of pneumatic railways, 
 with dummy engines, under ground ; for as all the terrestrial 
 objects are somewhat subterranean in their nature, from the 
 time of their birth, which certainly is in the dark, until the 
 day, as if when the " candle was blown out," says Dr. Stern, to 
 the day of our passage out of this world into the next, when 
 we are planted at our burials in the graveyard under ground, 
 which is but another instance of the truth of proverbs, that 
 "extremes meet" in a parenthesis, and under brackets in both 
 cases. We might further prove this lack of amelioration in 
 the wanton violation of the rigbts of nature by those barba- 
 
148 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART, 
 
 rian;-, wlio stripping the liillsidcs and mountains of the growth 
 and groves of trees, where they once were offering thick shade 
 for quiet, and refreshing shelter under the heavy branches for 
 rest, now present only a barren and neglected surface ; but the 
 crime, Avhich is a species of vandalism, has met its recompense 
 of reward, for the floods came, and utterly obliterated broad 
 acres, and leaving an arid waste in their stead, which might 
 have yielded under proper cultivation an increase of prolific 
 products in fruits and flowers, had the trees been allowed to 
 remain to protect the soil from relentless floods. Besides, the 
 washing away of the banks or by the levelling of it to improve 
 the same for this railroad drawn by horses, had led to the dis- 
 turbing of the remains of the Indian relics, and to the breaking 
 of some perfect specimens of their pottery, by the naughty 
 boys who were playing at foot-ball with them. To save which 
 desecration, the agents of the New York Historical Society for 
 the preservation of mummies and other antiquities should have 
 been round in these parts ; and, instead of being very carefully 
 kept by them, they have been widely scattered to the winds, 
 and are now hopelessly lost. Oh! pudor! vires sapientissimi 
 et doctissimi ! why are you not more wide awake ? It is not 
 for this reason, that what is everybody's business becomes 
 really nobody's business. 
 
 When we had arrived at the Wyoming Valley Hotel, w^e 
 found the parlor occupied by a number of distinguished guests, 
 and in the j^osscssion of some of those most respectable birds 
 of passage, who were collected together here, from all parts of 
 the country, to enjoy their summer retreat at this charming- 
 town of Wyoming, which has established a new watering- 
 place, under the hospitable care of a Mr. Ward, one of those 
 guardians and clever bonifaces so well fitted for the proper 
 management in every similar castle of luxurious indolence; for 
 
FKOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 149 
 
 such ever prove themselves to be, " a prodigal's favorite worse 
 lot, a miser's pensioner, as all publicans generally do, who catei 
 to the follies of all the gay worthies of the world, their fashions, 
 fopperies, and frivolities, or graciously bow in obsequious gri- 
 mace to the fickle phantasies and caprices of all skimmers over 
 the light waves of dreamy delight, not like ourselves engaged 
 as we were, but in strong constrast with those," in active 
 search of views and scenery, during the short weeks of our 
 stay, for Ave sought the society of the parlors as seldom as 
 possible ; fortunately /or ns wo were well known, and had some 
 acquaintances in the city, so that we could enjoy the society 
 of a few of the residents, far better than that of the company 
 of those who were wandering about the country in summer, as 
 were pleasure-seekers. 
 
 With a word in favor of the hotel, which has been newly 
 built, nearly reconstructed from an old house, and so enlarged 
 as to be fitted up with liberal and palatial proportions for the 
 comfort and accommodation of the guests (although for the 
 first time opened during the last spring, it is admirably kept), 
 we pass on to recount how we came to receive our personal 
 experiences from the donnitory Avindows on the third floor of 
 this building, to which we had been promoted, or changed, at 
 our urgent request, from a lower floor, where there was a lively 
 fountain planted to be overlooked, which had been seen 
 through our lorgnette^ with a fine bed of Savoy cabbages, a gar- 
 den prospect with its little fount in full play as a relief. 
 
 This might have suited the taste of the hogs, if one likes that 
 kind of j;;i^turesque, in a pen full of nice, little, lemon-in-mouth, 
 roasting-to-be-baked creatures, whose squeal savors somewhat 
 of the barnyard, and of the odor of the stable. This new and 
 more acceptable lofty look-out gave us a beautiful picture of 
 our first sunrise in the valley and over the mountains, as the 
 
150 DRIFT TIIOUGIITS AVIDE APART. 
 
 sun was just flusliing the faint, roseate tinges of the morning, 
 which were beaming, with faint blushes, over the soft liquid 
 waves of the dull, slow-moving stream, that was for less 
 attractive and enchanting, so that we have to take a finer and 
 more faithful description of the clouds than that which then 
 engrossed our attention, at our peep at the break of day, and 
 much better adapted to the truthful description of its charm- 
 ing effects by Wordsworth in the " Excursion." 
 
 "But rays of light, 
 Now suddenly diverging from the orb, 
 Retired behind the mountain-tops, or, veiled 
 By the dense air, shot ujiward to the crown 
 Of the blue firmament, aloft and wide ; 
 And multitudes of Httle floating clouds, 
 Ere we, who saw, of change were conscious, pierced 
 Through their etherial texture, had become 
 Vivid as fire ; clouds separately poised. 
 Innumerable multitude of forms 
 Scattered through the half-circle of the sky ; 
 And giving back, and shedding each on each, 
 With prodigal communion, the bright hues 
 "Which from the unapparent fount of glory 
 They had imbibed, and ceased not to receive 
 That which the heavens displayed, the liquid deep 
 Eepeated, but with unity sublime.' 
 
 Such were the effects produced at the first blushes of the 
 morning's light over all the horizon of pearly splendor, while, 
 at the peep of day, the light-winged vapors rose from off 
 the bosom of the stream, casting sweet, coy reflection on the 
 mirrored surface, and then gently moving off in light ascension, 
 with its gauzy veils of a delicate azure color, infused with the 
 roseate presence of the approaching dawn, " a moment seen, 
 then gone for ever ; " then passed upward, rolling tOAvards 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 151 
 
 the upper end of the valley, bearing its light freight of 
 misty clouds over the hillsides and across the blue-fringed 
 outlines of the blue western mountains, to sink away in quiet 
 dissolution, when the sun's bright rays burst out with orient 
 flames, glorious introduction into the treasures of this valley, 
 and we could not account for the effect produced by this sun- 
 rise, by any other way than this, that the toning of the whole 
 range of these western hills was occasioned by the body of 
 coal which formed their basis in their foundation, and might 
 thus be the natural and fixed appointment, thus intermingling 
 the gray-colored slate and darker coal with which their centre 
 was impregnated, in the alternate and variable strata of their 
 formation. However induced, we Avere content to take the 
 picture of its kaleidoscopic effects for our happy conclusions, 
 and rested in the belief that there was a great deal more in all 
 the other parts of the valley to fill our souls with its joyous 
 mete of grateful praise, refreshment, and to gratify our expecta- 
 tions, which had been raised from such a prosperous begin- 
 ning. 
 
 From about two or three miles from the centre of their 
 Dutch City Hall, or State-house, which presents a somewhat 
 ancient aspect on the public square of Wilkcsbarre, you can 
 see the Prospect House, one of the Avell-known objects which 
 are held forth for the visit of a tourist, who must enter it be- 
 fore he leaves the valley, for it stands boldly out on the side 
 of the second range of the hills, which are well wooded to the 
 extent of the remotest ridges at Laurel Run, and confronts your 
 vision, for you behold it all the way, while you ascend the 
 mountain, staring at you with its long, Avhite, bald face, from 
 its cold marble cliffs a long way off, which extend along the 
 ledges of the bold rock over one hundred yards; there it 
 stands, a prominent feature at every view of the landscape ; and, 
 
152 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 whether you want to sec it or not, you must look at it, or you 
 had better not have come into the valley at all for any reason- 
 able purpose whatsoever; and right under this rock is the 
 place where Mr. Williams, who was formerly a raftsman on the 
 river, has built a very suitable mansion-house for the boarding 
 of such summer guests as please to visit him during the sea- 
 son. The Inn is properly kept, and you will surely be well 
 attended to, for he has located himself down here for life, and 
 intends to settle on this spot for his homestead, where he is 
 both the proprietor and the landlord. While we were there 
 every civility Avas paid to us by our host; and having the 
 good-will of our friends at heart, after we had registered 
 our names, we took a good taste of his old rye whiskey, which 
 smacked as much of the old Lake of Killarney as if it had 
 been distilled near Dublin. Busily engaged on the floor of 
 the gallery was a guest at the hotel, who was building a small 
 babyhouse for the amusement of one of his children. Here 
 was a gentleman from New York, Ave suppose, for his name 
 was Mr. Martin, and now one of the summer swallows on the 
 wing, up there, but in this case the little wooden habitation 
 was for one of his boys, and not to put one of these nice little 
 birds away up in this lofty mountain, nor as a dwelling-place 
 for any of our American eagles, as its eyrie. 
 
 While wc were seated, settling our meal and repast on the 
 front stoop, a ferocious-looking fellow sat on a bench just oppo- 
 site us, and w^e began by asking him (as all genuine Yankees 
 are in the habit of doing), what he w^as about in these parts, 
 and how he came to get here ; for whose account he was 
 following this lumbering wagon, which was laden with a load 
 of horse-feed and barrels of flour, and was bound for the grist- 
 mills at Bear's Creek, where there were good trout in the val- 
 ley's brooks beyond. 
 
FEO.M THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 153 
 
 We must confess we did not like the looks of the man. lie 
 liad a very ugly expression in the eye ; and when he told us 
 he had been in the army and was a returned volunteer, who 
 had his discharge in his pocket, and was now out of money 
 and out of work, but wanted employment, we thought that, 
 between the owner of the team and this soldier, they might 
 have made mince-meat of us, when we had been walking up 
 through the woods of these wild mountain-paths, a little way 
 ahead of them while we were on our ascent to the Prospect 
 Rocks in the forenoon. Ilow^evcr, we soon put a stop to all our 
 fears of any danger ; for they shortly started away from the 
 Inn, after they had fed their horses, and took the direction of 
 the highway over the top of this range of sharp hills, and in 
 about an hour from noon, haviug left our respects for the ladies 
 who then were staying at this house, where we had eaten a fiir 
 better dinner than any we could get at the hotel in the city of 
 coal-banks, down below in the valley of Wilkesbarre, we were 
 
 ^aken in the carriage to the station of Laurel Run by Mr. W 
 
 in company with Mr. M who went there for newspapers, 
 
 and in a few hours were circumscribing the ridges of the valley, 
 along the course of the Lehigh and AVilkesbarre Railroad. 
 
 During the morning, we had occupied the hour we had be- 
 fore dinner in looking over the valley from the top of one of 
 the ledges of Prospect Rock, where we enjoyed one of the 
 finest views, if not the most extensive, over the whole range of 
 the valley. This embraced the whole sweep, over twenty miles 
 in length, and reached as far as the point of Campbell's Ledge 
 in the easterly direction, and to the south-west as far as the 
 termination of the range of this line of spurs in these west 
 mountains up to the end of the Nanticoke Gap, far more 
 beautiful than any yet visited by us, and probably unsurpassed, 
 except only by the valley of the abounding Shenandoah. It 
 
 7* 
 
154 
 
 DRIFT THOUGHTS — AVIDE APAUT. 
 
 is SO difficult to describe the feelings wliich are engendered by 
 such graud views in nature, that after having lingered an hour 
 climbing from ledge to ledge, and from rock to rock, we tried 
 to picture forth the whole of the valleys that we had travelled 
 through, and at the present retrospect of our memor}'^, cannot 
 recall any one which is superior to this, nor any ride on the 
 numerous railways we have ever ridden so continuously enjoy- 
 able and delightful, as that which passed along the side of this 
 mountain's ridges, while you arc driven from Laurel Run, by 
 the side of streams running in a zigzag and toi'tuous course 
 alongside of the forests, over the intermediate heights, until 
 you are landed at Wilkesbarre, half Avay down the mountain, 
 where you there j^erceive the rails on the tracks of the Lehigh 
 Valley and Allentown and New York Railroad passes, which 
 runs from this point along the circuit of the winding course 
 towards the line of this transept by way of the Allentown Road 
 to the depot in New York, after passing through !^Lauch Chunk, 
 and by the northern side of the river in sight of the quiet 
 Moravian settlement at Bethlehem, and with a look at the 
 beautiful wire bridge across the Lehigh and Delaware rivers 
 which form a junction at the city of Easton. 
 

 ^^^S^^^^^S 
 
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 ^^^cS 
 
 ^^^ra| 
 
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 if 
 
 
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 ^m 
 
 
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 ^^^ 
 
 i^'i 
 
 ^^i 
 
 ^^M 
 
 €l)aptcr 19. 
 
 ANTHRACITE COAL. 
 
 " The thin bine flame 
 Lies on my low-burnt Are, and qiiiveis not : 
 Only that film which fluttered on the grate 
 Still flutters there, the sole unquiet thing;. 
 MethinlvS its motion in this hush of niiture 
 Gives it dim symi)athics with me, who live, 
 Making it a companionable form, 
 AVhose puny flaps and freaks the idling spirit 
 By its own moods interprets ; everywhere 
 Echo or mirror seeking of itself 
 And making a toy of thought." 
 
 Coleridge. 
 
 We had stopped on our way up to Prospect Rock to examine 
 the works of the Empire Coal and Canal Company, which 
 owned a large property in this vicinity. We were taken when 
 we had been passing on up the former heights while walking 
 along by Mr. Broderick, who was superintending the mines, 
 for their benefit. To him we are much indebted for a drive 
 in his wagon, along the whole extent of their coal-works, 
 where he exhibited to us a nicely drawn plan of the chasm or 
 basins in which the coal is deposited through the different 
 hiyers of this product in alternate layers of slate and anthracite 
 coal. If you can imagine a section of an onion cut in half, 
 
156 DItlFT THOUGHTS AVIDE APAIIT. 
 
 through the centre, interspersed at intervals of black lignite 
 and slaty stone, which is found in alternate ^proportions of this 
 material of the carboniferous strata, and into divisions varying 
 from three or four to several feet, and sometimes reversing this 
 measure, until it is found to extend in the largest body of the 
 coal to a depth of eighteen feet in the valley ; and then ob- 
 serve that the whole dip of the range of this mine passes out 
 below the entire central circuit in the form of an arched bow 
 until it is discovered again as it rises out on to the travelled 
 road, you will get an idea of the natural construction of the 
 peculiar charges and croppings out of this useful product, as it 
 is held between the foundation walls, and appears to disap- 
 pear entirely under the bed of the Susquehanna River, where 
 you discover it again on the other side of the valley, when it 
 reappears at the foot of the hills, Avhich are passed by you, as 
 you drive along the road that runs from Kingston on your 
 visit to the famous Lake Harvey, which will repay a day's ride, 
 or a journey, whenever you have exhausted all the sights which 
 can be obtained from the Valley of Wyoming, 
 
 " It is worthy of your notice," said Mr. Broderick to us, 
 before we had travelled thus far, "that the fonnations of the 
 mines, which are to be looked into when you cross the stream, 
 will have an outshoot in an entirely contrary direction to that 
 of the dip on this side, which I have shown you, for your 
 inspection to-day, at the Empire works." So, a few days after, 
 we went into one pit which had been regularly formed at 
 about two miles from the bank of the river, and on looking 
 in at the opening, which was properly shored up with its 
 wooden supports of thick, heavy timber, we found that these 
 observations were true, and that the direction of the dips of its 
 inclination was exactly the reverse of those exhibited in the 
 former mine ; and that the other end of the arc of the circle 
 
rROJt THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 157 
 
 of the circumvallation was walled from the foundation, so as 
 with the other to complete a figure somewhat in the shape of 
 an ox-bow. 
 
 " Quod erat demonstrandum,''^ That was what was to bo 
 proved ; and this is but a certain demonstration of the truth 
 of both geology and science in that problem of old Euclid, — thai 
 the square of the circle is equal to the square of the other two 
 sides ; also that the longest way round a mountain is the 
 shortest way over; and, if you prefer another illustration, take 
 that of the square of the hypothenuse, called the '^ pons 
 asinorum,'''' (known to all college-boys who have ever ponied 
 in geometr}^, but not applicable to ourselves, for we were 
 driven to discover this lustts naturce in coal, this queer freak 
 of Dame Nature, and found it out on a very rainy day from 
 the side of our horse and buggy, which we had hired from 
 Mr. Persell in town, for " where ignorance is bliss, 'twere folly 
 to be too wise "), or you may have to carry a jackass on your 
 shoulders. 
 
 Now, speaking so much as we had about coal, reminded of 
 those same college boys who w^ere wont to sing an old song at 
 commons, about 
 
 " Old King Cole was a jolly old soul, 
 And a jolly old soul was lie ; 
 So he called for his pipe 
 And he called for his bowl, 
 Then called for his fiddlers three," 
 etc., etc. 
 
 Harvard Days, 
 
 There is no doubt in our mind that he called for his coal also, 
 for how could he light his pipe without a coal of fire ! This 
 brings us back to our mutton, as the Frenchman says, — 
 
158 DI!IFT THOUGHTS "WIDE Al'AKT. 
 
 " Revcnons a nos inoutons,''^ — wliicli is best cooked before the 
 grate-bars of your range, witli a charcoal fire, or red-hot coke 
 for a beefsteak, if you are in a dreadful hurry for your break- 
 fast. 
 
 Throughout the whole range of the valley, and in the side 
 of the mountains, mineral coal of very superior quality is 
 found in great abundance. It is of a species called anthracite, 
 which burns without smoke, Avith very little flame, and consti- 
 tutes the principal fuel of the inhabitants, as well as an article 
 of export. 
 
 The head of the enterprise which has led to the develop- 
 ment of this excellent substitute for the woods of the forest, 
 which are fast disappearing, was that venerable old pioneer of 
 the wilderness, Mr. Hollenbeck, whoso family now reside at 
 Wilkesbarre, and constitute the element of that social coterie 
 which has rendered our country towns so celebrated for their 
 intelligent, brilliant, and beautiful women ; for so much do the 
 habits of the people depend upon the characteristics of the 
 inhabitants of their villages and towns, that it would be strange 
 indeed if the effects of agreeable manners should not produce 
 a parallel with the kindlier influences of our mountain scenery, 
 where cool gales fiin the glades, where the winds waft their 
 breezes through whispering forest, and the birds sing praises 
 through the woodland groves, and the rivers and running 
 streams, dashing with delight, listen to the trickling music of 
 the headlong, leaping cascades. Where there is a nature that 
 is kind in woman's breast, and reason holds her sway among 
 the wise and good in men. Where God's simple children join 
 in harmony and constant love together, to praise the universal 
 Father in sweet communion of mutual pity and forgiveness, to 
 erect temples for His glory, in which they faithfully join in 
 building up a triumphant victory, which shall proclaim His 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 159 
 
 fame, transcend all the false and fickle lights of those dark cre- 
 ations of perverted intellects, whose shadows are as variable as 
 those purple women and scarlet sisters of despair, whose motley 
 garments are in as mournful dresses clad as the tattered rai- 
 ments which they wear. 
 
 We ought to enumerate the bar and bench, and some of 
 their very rich men, who are like the Dives or Croesus's of this 
 golden abode, many of whose fortunes were made from the 
 coal-beds of these regions ; but pass on from such obscurities 
 of the perfect light and sad perversion of men's true talents, 
 from these mere worshippers of gold, who are all too much 
 alike in their love of monej^, as to bow down to 
 
 " Mammon, the least-erected spirit that fell 
 From heaven, for even in heaven his looks and thoughts 
 Were alway downward bent." 
 
 John Milton. 
 
 " Woo unto you that are ricli, for ye have received your consolation.'', 
 
 LuJce vi. 24. 
 
 AVe pause here to describe a pleasant walk which bore its 
 course alongside of the valley towards Pittston, about ten 
 miles distant from the city ; while on this path we fell in Avith 
 one of the contractors of coal-mines in this region, and were 
 driven by Mr. Stillman to the spot in which his own interests 
 lie. Here Ave saw the donkeys moving out of the dark cham- 
 bers of the mine, drawing their loads to the canal-boats, Avhicli 
 were ready to remove them after they had been dumped into the 
 boats ready to bear them awa}'. This came directly out of the 
 side of the hill, and required no machinery to Avork it, only 
 by a simple transportation from the interior shaft, after it had 
 been dug out of the mines by the laborers, Avith their picks, to 
 
160 DUIFr THOUGHTS WIDE ATAKT. 
 
 place it on tramway cars, Aviiich were drawn by the little, 
 humble, patient creatures which are vulgarly called Jackasses. 
 
 Such a mine is easily worked, and sheds its fruits for the 
 contractors to use ; and after paying a little toll to their lessors 
 furnished a little pocket-money for some of our friends in the 
 N'illage, for the snug increase of the incomes of many others 
 who deri\'e their revenues from this source, and also contri- 
 buted much towards the comfort of many of the town's folks 
 in Wilkesbarre. After passing this establishment we saw other 
 pits just thrusting their openings out by the side of the high- 
 way, into one of which we descended, and saw the gangways 
 and the drift of the inclination of the lodes, by the direction 
 in wliich they were shooting from a north-easterly to a south- 
 easterly bearing ; that is really the same in all the formations 
 of the coal in the range of these low hills. Now beyond this 
 point of the road were many other driving shafts at work, 
 with the engines puffing under a full head of steam, which 
 were used for drawing the coal up from the pits to the top in 
 buckets, and hauled up by a windlass rope to the surface, and 
 these passed them when full, into the screens after the large 
 clumps had been first broken, then separated, so as to be 
 cleansed from the dirt and dust, by means of a stream of water 
 constantly running through, so as to adapt the lumps, accord- 
 ing to the proper sizes, for market use. 
 
 All along the route we Avere occupied in talking with the 
 miners, and reviewing all the courses of the veins, as we hur- 
 ried along in the direction of the ferry at Troy, whence we 
 could see the form of the monument on the opposite banks of 
 the river. That town of Pittston (for the day was getting on, 
 and the clouds showed some signs of rain) appeared to be a 
 great way oft". Nu wonder, fur Ave Avere strangers in a strange 
 country, and on our first vis't; but, shortly after this stale of 
 
FEOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 16.1 
 
 bewilderment, we found a farmer at work on his farm, and 
 from l)im inquired about matters and things in general ; and, 
 observing that he hesitated somewhat in his answers to our 
 inquiries, which were quite to the point, while his remarks were 
 rather addressed to us in his curiosity to ascertain some news 
 about the Great Convention which was then in session at 
 Philadelphia ; we paused at the moment of his uncertainty, for 
 by this time we were getting quite tired ; and were about 
 making up our minds, that we should scarcely get to Troy 
 that afternoon, when a stranger overtook us, who was on his 
 way to town, who had compassion on us, after saying, that as 
 the boys at Pittston had not furnished him any other company, 
 and for want of any other we suppose, he was polite enough 
 to ask us to take a seat in his buggy ; and from him Ave 
 gathered some information and facts about the people of these 
 regions, and concerning the character of the country folks and 
 miners. We thought we had struck a vein of good luck, when 
 he told us that his name was Mr. Shelley, but soon learned 
 fiom him that he was in no way related to the poet, for he 
 was a miller by trade, and he was going to get some bolt- 
 ing-cloth for his own use in the milling of his flour. This 
 reminded us of the old college-song about the good old colony 
 times, Avhich ran as follows, viz. : 
 
 In good old colony times 
 When we lived under the Kinp:, 
 Three roguish chaps fell into mishaps 
 Because they could not sing. 
 
 Chorus. 
 
 Rye too, ryo noo, ryo too, rye nay, 
 Rye too dee, rye too dee. rye nay. 
 
162 
 
 DEIFT THOUGHTS — AVIDE APAET. 
 
 II. 
 
 The first, he was a miller, 
 The seconil, he was a weaver, 
 The third, ho was a little tailor. 
 Three roguish chaps together. 
 Chorus, etc., etc. 
 
 III. 
 The miUer, he stole corn, 
 The weaver, he stole yarn. 
 And the little tailor stole broadcloth for 
 To keep those three rogues warm. 
 Chorus, etc., etc. 
 
 IV. 
 
 The miller was drowned in his dam, 
 
 The weaver was hung in his yarn ; 
 
 But the Devil clapped his claw on the little tailor 
 
 With the broadcloth under his arm. 
 Chorus. 
 Rye too, rye noo, rye nay, 
 Rye too dee, rye too dee, rye nay I 
 
€l)aptcr 20» 
 
 We don't vouch for tlie honesty of our friend, but as a good 
 countenance is ever the best letter of recommendation, we were 
 sure he was an honest miller, for it had been threatening rain 
 during the whole day, on Avhich we were taken up by this 
 man, and carried to his stopping-place at the Steele House, 
 where he placed his horse to be fed and taken care of, until 
 his return home after dinner. 
 
 During the time we were resting at noon, for our repose, it 
 commenced to rain very heavily, and so continued at varying 
 intervals, until late in the afternoon. It had been understood 
 between us, while we were riding together in the forenoon, 
 if it should be agreeable, we would return home with him in 
 the afternoon, as far as Pittston. Notwithstanding the shower 
 which was pouring in heavy sheets of water ha stopped for us 
 at the hotel, where we were waiting for him, and then started 
 away across the bridge over the Susquehanna on to the high- 
 Avay which runs along in a very broad road, a hundred feet in 
 width, through the middle of the valley. 
 
 AVe dashed along through the mud a few rods just this side of 
 Kingston, and in front of the Wyoming Academy, where both 
 young men and women are properly educated, under the 
 superintendence and instruction of a body of able professors; 
 among whom was the Reverend Mr. Sturtevant, a preacher in 
 the Methodist Meeting-house, near the town of Kingston. It 
 
1G4 DRIFT THOUGHTS — AVIDE APART. 
 
 continued to rain all the while we were riding over this centre 
 of the long plains, but that did not prevent us from viewing 
 the old homestead of the old burgomaster, Schumacher, after 
 having passed beyond the old family graveyard, which was 
 placed behind the church, not far from the circle of the race- 
 ground, with its high, white palings to protect it, and which 
 had been neatly fenced in about half way between the villages of 
 Wyoming and Troy. "VVe stopped awhile on the edge of Fort 
 Hill to look up the celebrated monument which speaks for itself. 
 
 THE MONUMENT. 
 
 Near this spot Avas fought 
 On the afternoon of Friday, the third of July, 1778, 
 
 THE BATTLE OF WYOMING, 
 
 In which a small band of patriotic Americans, chiefly the un- 
 disciplined, the youthful and the aged, spared by inefficiency 
 from the distant ranks of the Republic, led by Col. Zebulon 
 Butler and Col. Nathan Denison, 
 
 With a courage that deserved success, 
 Boldly met and bravely fought 
 A. combined British, Tory, and Indian force, 
 Of thrice their number. 
 
 Numerical superiority alone gave success to the invader, 
 
 And widespread havoc, desolation, and ruin 
 
 Marked his savage and bloody footsteps through the valley. 
 
 THIS MONUMENT, 
 
 Commemorative of these events 
 
 And the actors in them, 
 
 has been erected 
 
 Over the bones of the slain 
 
 By their descendants, and those who gratefully appreciated 
 
 the services and sacrifices of their patriot ancestors. 
 
FROM THE SKA TO THE SUMMITS. 165 
 
 Altliougli measures were instituted to erect a suitable monu- 
 ment on tlie spot, it was not until the women of Wyoming car- 
 ried out the pious determination, by taking the design in hand, 
 that the work, in their labor of love, was completed ; and the 
 result of their willing and industrious hands secured the 
 Wyoming monument, an obelisk about sixty feet in height, 
 bearing the above inscription. 
 
 With a passing sigh, wafted over the mournful reminiscences 
 of the dreadful massacres which were suggested, while we were 
 looking over the letters which had been sculptured here in the 
 marble, we resumed our seats in the carriage, and in a short 
 time Avere enabled to reach the outskirts of the village of 
 Pittston before the sun had set, and after the rain had spent 
 his force ; and having crossed the Susquehanna again, over the 
 bridge which marks the union of the Lackawanna and the 
 former at this point, we concluded to rest from that day's ride, 
 and stopped for dinner at the Eagle Hotel. While we were 
 there we had abundant time to hear of many things connected 
 with the foundries, the collieries, and the inhabitants of this 
 mining district. W'hile we were sitting down at dinner, the 
 native phA^sician came in the room ; he sat opposite us at the 
 table, and reported the sudden death of two of the miners, 
 from a break in the wall of one of the drifts. In ftict these 
 workmen are so accustomed to the bearing of the coal lodes 
 that they become reckless, and quite too careless about their 
 own safety, and hazard their lives very often, because they fail 
 to take the necessary precautions for their proper safety. 
 Here also large rolling-mills were established, and several 
 foundries ; and you may judge of the excavations under 
 ground for their exploration of the coal veins at this point, 
 from the fact that you can walk from this place all the way 
 underneath the soil to Wilkesbarre, and not reappear for some 
 
166 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 time, to tlic top of tlic outlet, wlierc you crawl out by tlie 
 shaft, ■which will bear you to the surface after a time, for il 
 will be several hours before you turn up to daylight again. 
 Such subterraneaia ways and views of life, like dark visitations, 
 often produce very sad influences on the character and habits 
 of some of the working classes ; but of the morals of some of 
 the foreign citizens, Welsh and Irish, who have emigrated 
 from their own countries to labor under these mines, and who 
 live behind the town, in the vicinity of Bushville, " the least 
 said the sooner mended." However, it is not to the discredit 
 of some of the residents that we except many of the private, 
 quiet people who are domiciled here ; for we heard of one 
 gifted nightingale who dwelt on the hillside, near which we 
 had been taken on top of the omnibus, and alongside one of 
 the largest shafts, Avhose fame Avas widely celebrated, as pos- 
 sessing a voice of sweetest melody, and whose claims to beauty, 
 although she was the daughter of a house-carpenter, are not to 
 be left unsung by us. Doubtless, there is no impropriety in 
 declaring that one of the holy saints who was stoned, while 
 Saul was looking on while it Avas done, bore a similar name to 
 that of this charming Christian lady ; always to be remembered 
 and cherished in all the calendars of the saints in Christendom, 
 as the holy martyr St. Stephen, who shouted his last notes of 
 glory while bright rays of light shone upon his uplifted coun- 
 tenance, as he looked up into heaven with a sweet smile on his 
 face. So Avas our lively imagination flushed Avith soft lines of 
 painted imagery, and dove-Avinged fancy lent to her inspired 
 notes a voice of thrilling harmony, Avhich still Avhispers in our 
 ears, and guides the pen Avhile it lingers on the heart, to yield 
 a tribute of meet praise in memory to her merits, Avhilst songs 
 of melodious birth invoked Avithin our breast grateful reminis- 
 :ienees of pure delight and mingled rapture, and in such gen- 
 
FROM THE SKA TO THE SUMMITS. 107 
 
 tic tones tliey murniurccl tliroiigh the breeze, as to impinge 
 the air Avith violet tones of flowing melody and mnsic, breath- 
 ing, and so to soothe the mind and charm the soul as pleas- 
 ingly as when the light vespers move over the s\Yclling tide of 
 the summer waves, and the sea-shell echoes back in thrills and 
 sounding beats to waft them to the shore in throbbing sym- 
 phonies from the boundless deep ; and as voices of the past will 
 do as much to redeem all that can be Avhispered against this 
 town, to wipe out the darkest muttering of reproach that can 
 be uttered to the disfavor of this beautiful spot, while the fair 
 Isabel will ever remain the bright belle of the place, where the 
 rivers join in concert, and will wash away every dark stain 
 which mars its beauty, or might asperse our reminiscences as to 
 the virtuous and bright and happy queen of song, and we will 
 sound her praises with the trumpet of an archangel while we 
 live, to the ends of this earth ; and if she dies before us, then, 
 as the swan sings her last notes the sweetest, as she lingers 
 dying among the reeds, so may we sing out our loud key- 
 notes, pure, and as long as did that honest old poet Ben 
 Jonson, when he truly said of 
 
 " Our own Shakespeare, Nature's child, 
 Who warbles his native wood-notes wild." 
 
 Then as we were on our way from the village, in hot haste 
 to return home, we are reminded again, whilst passing it, of 
 the old Hollenbeck mill which is erected not far from the exte- 
 rior ridge of the cemetery that faces the Susquehanna and 
 overlooks the millpond that fills the race sluice waste from the 
 dam, and turns the round wheel ; we thought here was a man 
 who rose from nothing, and forth out of nothing brought foi-th 
 light and gas, which is something like magic, from the bowels 
 
1G8 DIUFT TIIOUGITTS — WIDE APAKT. 
 
 of the earth, in a body of matter large cnougli, from tlie coal 
 deposited, to keep alive all the fires of this world, and if this-' 
 were gathered in pipes, would furnish sufficient to illuminate 
 all the dark places of the illustrious town of Gotham, wliich 
 certainly is " a world " in itself, with all the flesh and the Devil 
 combined. 
 
 Beyond this there is nothing to relate. You have all heard 
 of the grasshopper war, which sprang from a child taking a 
 large grasshopper ; that led to a quarrel among the Indian 
 children to possess it, in which the mothers took a part ; and 
 how the Delaware squaws contended with the Shawnccs, and 
 the quarrel became general ; how the weakened Shawnees 
 were beaten, with the loss of half their tribe, and so were 
 forced to fly, shortly after abandon their town, and take refuge 
 in Ohio ; and about the six nations, who were known by the 
 general name of " Mingoes." They consisted of the Ononda- 
 gas,^ Senecas, Cayugas, Oneydas, Mohawks, and Tuscaroras, 
 and Avere a powerful and warlike people, who claimed a juris- 
 diction extending from the Connecticut River to the Ohio. 
 They are described as a " confederacy," and as such subdued 
 (after reducing a great number of Indian tribes) a territory 
 more extensive than the whole Kingdom of France ; and you 
 may have read about the councils, and the Indian philippics, 
 and the arrival of the Delawares at Wyoming, and about 
 Count Zinderdorf, who visited this region as a missionary, in 
 the summer of 1742, among the Indians ; and how one day as 
 he sat alone in his tent, seated on a couch of dry Aveeds and 
 engaged in Avriting, the assassins approached to execute their 
 bloody commission of his death, in the night, and how the 
 heat of his small fire which he had lighted for his comfort on 
 a cold night, had aroused a large rattlesnake which lay in the 
 weeds not far from it ; when without all was quiet, " not a 
 
FROM THE SEA TO TFIE SUMMITS. 169 
 
 mouse stirring," except the gentle murmur of tlie river, of the 
 rapids below, and the Indian softly ajDproached the door of his 
 tent, removing slightly the curtain, watched the old man, who 
 was too much engaged to notice either the Indian or the approach 
 of the snake, which lay extended before him. At this sight, 
 like the barbarians on the Island of Melita, in St. Paul's time, 
 they were struck to their hearts, and shrank from consummat- 
 ing so foul a murder, and, quitting the spot, hastily retired to 
 their wigwams, and informed their companions that the Oreat 
 Sinr'it protected the Avhite man, for they had found him 
 with no door but a blanket, and had seen a large rattlesnake 
 crawl over his legs, Avithout attempting to injure him. And 
 afterwards you may read of the coming of the Nanticokes, and 
 early attempt of settlements of Wyoming by the whites, and 
 the permanent abode of the brethren, the Moravians at Beth- 
 lehem on the Lehigh, and of the Connecticut company, and 
 of conflicting claims of the Plymouth company, and the Dutch, 
 Connecticut, and Pennsylvania contestants. Bat time has set 
 these matters at rest, and the Indians have been ousted of their 
 titles, and the poor aborigines' claims have been utterly extin- 
 guished, and then buried in the tomb of the Capulets, for Wyo- 
 ming has got these matters under her lock, and now considers 
 herself as the key in the arch of the Keystone State, and has 
 thus put a stop to all other attempts at settlement, Indian 
 treachery, stories of the great massacres, attacks, and flights of 
 the British and Indians, or any of those fugitives who have 
 crossed the mountains in their escape from the savages, or the 
 flames of their burning dwellings, whose sufferings and wants 
 were intense, for numbers perished in their journeys, and those 
 who survived the wilderness have ever since named these cruel 
 acts of those in human brutes, as the feats of devils incarnate of 
 Satan, and left these souvenirs of their horrible awful passage 
 
170 DUIFl" TIJO'JGIITS WIDE APART. 
 
 through the valley of despair to their descendants and pos- 
 terity to call it the " Shades of Death," an appellation which 
 it has retained ever since, and been for ever perpetuated in 
 the lines of Drake, among the poetical tributes of Wyoming : 
 
 POETRY OP WYOMING. 
 
 "Romantic "Wyoming! could none be found 
 Of all that rove thy Eden groves among, 
 To wake a native's harp's untutored sound, 
 And give thy talc the voice of song? 
 Oh 1 if description's cold and nerveless tongue, 
 From stranger's liarp, such hallowed strains could call. 
 How doubly sweet the descant wild had rung 
 From one who, lingering round thy ruined wall. 
 Had plucked thy mourning (lowers, and wept thy timeless fall.'' 
 
 Drake. 
 
 Campbeirs immortal poem, " Gertrude of Wyoming," be- 
 yond any inspiration of the muse which the sad story of her 
 early history furnishes, has spread the name and fome of the 
 Valley of Wyoming to earth's remotest borders. The histo- 
 rians and travellers concur in their description, that there was 
 one of the happiest spots of human existence, how the hospi- 
 table and innocent manners of the inhabitants, the beauty of 
 the country, the luxuriant fertility of the soil, and the good 
 climate. In an evil hour the joinder of European and Indian 
 arms converted this terrestrial paradise into a frightful waste. 
 
A RAMBLE.— CAMPBELL'S LEDGE. 
 
 In view of tlie necessity of rcacliing tlie most beautiful point 
 in all the landscapes of tlie valley, it was our determination to 
 pass over part of the same road, which led to the town of 
 Pittston yesterday ; from which place we would have to cross 
 the river again, in order to reach " Campbell's Ledge," a rocky 
 bulwark of stone bluffs, that frowns over the banks of the river, 
 to crown the cliffs and parapets on its borders, as it leaves the 
 Avestern mountains to pass into the valleys after you have left 
 Scranton behind. Whilst on the road from Wilkesbarre one 
 day when we had footed along slowly about a mile from the 
 town, we stopped to pay our tribute of respect to the memory 
 of an old friend, who was a lawyer who discharged lus duties 
 honorably, and quit himself like a man, and in his gifts which 
 Avere peculiar to him, which were worthily used for the good 
 of his race for ever. Fool not your time here, says George 
 Herbert. 
 
 "For all may have, 
 If tliey dare choose, a glorious life or grave." 
 
 But having died in the city of New York, from a very sud- 
 
172 DRIFT THOUGHTS AVIDE APART. 
 
 deii attack of paralysis, liis body was taken from his residence; 
 and after its removal to this spot for interment, was deposited 
 by his widow in the cemetery of Wilkesbarre. We arrived 
 there just as the monument which was to have been erected 
 over his grave had been placed on the side of the family vault, 
 in the very boxes in which it had been brought by express to 
 this place from the hall of the studio of the marble-sculptor 
 to this city of living sepulchres, and walked over the grounds 
 to view the neat plot which had been appropriated for his 
 entombment, which had been fenced in by a proper iron rail- 
 ing to protect the family tomb ; the cemetery bore the name 
 of the " Hollenbeck," and was beautifully situated on an ele- 
 vated ridge, which overlooked the river, and controlled a fine ' 
 prospect along the whole extent of the valley of Wyoming, 
 and from its lovely position fronting the lines of that stream, 
 it reminded us of that cluster of white sepulchres and tombs, 
 fit depositories, as a resting-place for the dead, similarly and 
 beautifully laid out and planted with trees, which is to be seen 
 from that burial-ground which fronts the Connecticut River at 
 Brattleborough, in Vermont. After leaving this spot, where 
 we had remained an hour, enjoying the prospects which were 
 presented from the running lines, and the long plains along 
 the sides of the hills, which were gathered thence from within 
 this grouping of the stream, as it ran its course along the 
 length}', rolling meadows with the views of the interior land- 
 scapes, which, bearing its sluggish waters to the south in circuit- 
 ous windings among the islands that checkered its surface, break- 
 ing and mingling its blue hues with shadows of the reflected 
 shade-trees which were bending their forms from their mir- 
 rored images, while the sun shook out its bright radiance from 
 the clouds, in alternate glimpses of light and shade, flickering 
 with hues of golden light through the camera of the sky, with 
 
FKOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 173 
 
 such a touch of genial glow, around, above, and here below, on 
 mountain or in glen, we resumed our pedestrian trip, hoping 
 all the Avhile with Micawber, that something would turn 
 up to give us a lift along the road in the shape of a wagon, or 
 any other kind of vehicle, to help us on towards the end of 
 our tour ; after several vain attempts, we succeeded in hailing 
 a pedlar who was returning home by the same road, from a 
 *'junk" expedition in the search of old scraps of iron, which 
 were to be sold at the smelting-foundry in Pittston. Having 
 found the old man very sociable, and willing to have our com- 
 pany, Ave were accommodated by his placing a stool on the 
 front of the wagon, and thus moved along with him conversing 
 about various subjects as Ave rode to the Troy Ferry, where we 
 left him, for the prosecution of our journey alone, but not 
 without taking him into the tavern near this spot, which is 
 just opposite the monument, and kept by a Mr. Wright, who 
 gave us drink of hard cider for our treat. Now, let us say a 
 Avord more in favor of this pedlar, Avho told us that he Avas from 
 Frankfort on the Main, and had travelled thus far for gain, as 
 is the honest habit of all respectable Jcavs ; he had wandered 
 all over this country, and seen every part, which is also a 
 characteristic of the wandering Jew ; now, this Hebrew gentle- 
 man told us that he belonged to a musical society in the 
 village, and was one of a pleasant band of private musicians 
 Avho were in the custom of enjoying their very pleasant com- 
 pany while playing together at concerts for their amusement, 
 Avhich Avas an evidence of a very good state of society in that 
 village of coal-Avorks, and underground railroads, for their 
 mining operations in the dark ; for similia similibus, as a doc- 
 tor's motto, is as true in morals as it is in medical homoeo- 
 pathy, and that dirt makes dirty people is as sure as that " evil 
 communications corrupt good manners ; " no less than that 
 
lli 1>U1FT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 " cleanliness is next to godliness." Now, we liave a little pride 
 in such tilings, but not that kind of pride which precludes so 
 or prevents the happiness of many people, who try to cover it 
 up under the cloak of dignity. Here was a frowsy-haired old 
 pedlar digging away in the dirt and straw for the old iron, to 
 place it on the maw of the smelting-foundry at Pittston afor 
 off, gathering the fragments that nothing be lost, one of those 
 lay preachers that the world sends out if we would only listen 
 to what they say, for 
 
 " The trivial round, the common task, 
 "Will furnish all we ought to ask — 
 Room to deny ourselves ; a road 
 To bring us daily nearer God." 
 
 Bulwer says, "All haj)piness dwells more in hope than the 
 possession." 
 
 We do not regret that we stopped to pick up one of these 
 drifts by the wayside, where the inn bore the sig-n of the Troy 
 Ferry opposite, and swung out its board on hinges creaking, 
 just alongside of the canal, where the slow motion of a team 
 of horses, which were dragging the canal-boats by a tackle 
 attached to a long rope from their bows, as they slipped over 
 the waters, laden with heavy produce, from the Lehigh Valley 
 Canal, Avhere they were kept in the docks on the banks of the 
 basin at Wilkesbarre. Here we hired a buggy from the inn- 
 keeper ; and, in a short time, his son accompanied us with a 
 spirited horse, as we hurried on to reach the proposed end of 
 this day's excursion, which was the Great Ledge beyond Pitts- 
 ton, over the other side of the Susquehanna ; as the river was 
 low at this season of the year, after driving through the vUlage, 
 we concluded to wade across the river, thereby gaining ground, 
 and avoiding a long delay over the bridge at the junction, 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUJIIIITS. 175 
 
 wliicli would Lave detained us too long, and caused us to lose 
 the 5.20 P.M. train after our return. After we had crossed 
 the stream, which was very shallow, we urged the horse up 
 the .steep bank on the farther side, and then drove at full 
 speed in the direction of the Ledge, until we stopped under 
 the shadow of the overhanging cKflfs. Having ascertained 
 from the woman whose dwelling was right under the edge of 
 one of the lower hills, that it would be best to walk all the 
 way up, and it would take fully an hour and a half to go up 
 and return, we then took the direction she had pointed out to 
 us by the path, which was marked by a very large grapevine, 
 which was creeping Avith mistletoe dependence for support, 
 around the trunk of a huge walnut-tree, that was standing iu 
 the direct course of our ascent, but we kept closely to the 
 rocks in the regular mountain passes through the ravine, which 
 had been deeply cut out, during the spring torrents. We at 
 length climbed up to a higher point of the mountain to where 
 the trees rather hid our aspect of the Ledge, and after dragging 
 our wearisome steps, slowly moving upwards all the while, we 
 began to feel much greater difficulty in surmounting the 
 obstructions in the way as we advanced, and had often to cling- 
 to the branches of the trees for our support ; when suddenly 
 getting out of breath from our too rapid motion, we sat down 
 a moment to look back on the scenery which could be con- 
 trolled from the rock on which we rested a few seconds. There 
 was nothing to be seen now but the thick woods all around 
 us and above, while, beyond on the other side of the declivity, 
 a sight of the opposite mountain that rose over the canal and 
 seemed at this point of view somewhat higher than the one 
 we were trying to reach. Then mounting again by the aid of 
 a sapling which we cut by the wayside, we were enabled to 
 get further up to the edge of the first plateau, on this moun- 
 
17G DIIIFT THOUGHTS — AVIDE APAKT. 
 
 tain, and under one of the side slits in the cliffs we paused 
 av.'hile, again to breathe, and from this point forward the 
 trouhle of climbing began to increase, so that it made us think 
 that we had gotten on the wrong ledge ; but the further we 
 struggled, the harder the ridges became to be overcome, and 
 had it not been that we came across a lonely, solitary, lame, 
 limping sheep, with a broken leg, which was resting from his 
 fatigue, while wandering over the rough stones, through the 
 waters of the glens, we should have thought ourselves in a 
 more forlorn condition than that of this sorry little deserted 
 animal ; but, concluding to follow its tracks along the same 
 path by which it had ascended, we took its foot-prints for our 
 guidance, and, encouraged by this beast, kept on the way up, in 
 order to vanquish the remaining distance which separated us 
 from the accomplishment of this severe undertaking to arrive 
 at the summit of the ledges. Then heartily congratulating 
 each other on our success thus far, we settled ourselves on a 
 wide rock which seemed to be separated from the strata of this 
 cliff, and there remained for a few minutes, to look out at the 
 whole surface of the ledge, Avhich could now be seen from that 
 advanced position. This was truly enjoyable, for it embraced 
 the interior of the fertile territory, a full glimpse of the Avide- 
 spread panorama of fields and farmhouses that now embraced a 
 perfect view of the lower peaks of the west mountains. Thence 
 we could look down on the plains beneath us, which were cul- 
 tivated in the beautiful valleys ; and, from this height, Ave saw, 
 away down beloAV at the base of the road from which Ave had 
 started, the animals and men, Avho Avere Avorking on the canal, 
 who noAV seemed so small in their statures and diminutive pro- 
 portions, that they appeared to us like Liliputian pigmies. 
 By a long Avalk, over the entire basis of this elevation on the 
 summit, Avhich Avas found to extend over a quarter of a mile, 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. Ill 
 
 \vc were enabled to get at tlie true cbaractcristic of this Table 
 of Rocky Ledges, on the top of a long range of nioss-covcred 
 stone palisades. In fact, had it not been that we were very 
 tired after our difficult ascent, we must have concluded that 
 even then wc had not truly measured its j^roper dmiensions, 
 nor had seen the real Campbell's Ledge which you see 
 frowning so boldly over your head, throughout the valley of 
 the Lackawanna, and while you are passing over the bridge in 
 front of Pittston, at their union with the Susquehanna. But 
 in all respects, it was worth all the toil and travel it cost us to 
 make its ascent. The views from all the points of the Ledge, 
 at the last promontory on which we sat down to consider them, 
 well repaid all the burden of getting up to them. So wc 
 rested, from our severe endeavors to attempt to visit this bluff, 
 with this mete of reward for our satisfaction, that we had well 
 earned the price which Ave paid for this ride, and regretted 
 the stern necessity which compelled Mr. Campbell to take his 
 last leap from this cliff", when he was compelled to fly from 
 those terrible wild Indian savages, Avho were in hot pursuit be- 
 hind him. Then turning round, we took a last look at Scranton, 
 which is seen in the rear of the mountains ; and that last sight 
 was caught by climbing up a tree, and after following the 
 course which the sheep had shown us, when we were going 
 up, we went down those cliffs with a rush and scampered away, 
 for it was hardly possible to keep out of a run or trot all the 
 way, to prevent our falling over some of the precipices which 
 were narrowly edging out at the sudden turns in the ledges ; 
 but after an hour and a half of rapid motion, by snatching at 
 the branches and limbs of the trees, which often broke away 
 under our gi'asp, we succeeded in getting back to the horse, 
 and were cartied back to the railroad in time to get home by 
 the train that evening. Thus closed our journey up the moun- 
 
 8* 
 
178 DRIFT THOur.nT.5 — ^ylD]z apart. 
 
 tain ledge, and we were told by many of the inliabitants of the 
 place, that few persons had so thoroughly chased the valley in 
 the pursuit of pleasure, as we did during our sojourn ; but it 
 was not a butterfly chase to us, for we made one point of 
 reflection while at the rock which shall for ever mark that ledge 
 for our lifetime, which was this ; that when Ave were ascending 
 and had nearly reached the top, the wind blew with the force 
 of a huiTicane, so as to nearly lift our hats off our heads, and 
 we had to hold on to them Avith both hands ; it Avas a furious 
 breeze, but amid all its bluster, blowing with such a violence, 
 and Avhistling and howling with the ferocity of a southern tor- 
 nado, as the Avild Avinds let loose only can ; yet amidst all its 
 terrible breath of blasting fury Ave listened and could hear the 
 still soft murmurings of the little insects that, uttering their clear 
 distinct notes in the eventide, reminded us of the spirit Avhich 
 breathes through all creation, Avere Avhispering in the express- 
 ing of their little, clear, precise and simple voice, in silent 
 praise to that Holy Father who is ever considerate of the least 
 of his creatures as well as of the greatest he has made ; and the 
 musical voice of those little small ephemeral creatures Avas 
 heard through the whirlwind. " For it is He that sitteth upon 
 the circle of the earth, and the inhabitants thereof are as grass- 
 hoppers : He stretcheth out the heavens as a curtain, and 
 spreadeth them out as a tent to dAvell in ; for it is He avIio 
 hath measured the Avaters in the holloAV of his hand, and meted 
 out the heavens with a span, and comprehended the dust of the 
 earth in a measure, and Aveighed the mountains in scales, and 
 the hills in a balance ; for, behold, the nations are as a drop of 
 a bucket, and are counted as the srnall dust of the balance : 
 behold, He taketh up the isles as a very small thing." Passim : 
 Isaiah, 40th chapter. 
 
aLI)aptcr 22. 
 
 HARVEY LAKE. 
 
 " The rocky summits, split and rent, 
 Formed turrets, dome, or battlement ; 
 Or seemed fantastically set 
 AVith cupola or minaret. 
 Nor were these earth-born castles bare ; 
 For o'er the unfathomable glade. 
 All twinliling with the dewdrop sheen. 
 The brier-rose fell, in streamers green, 
 A nd creeping shrubs of thousand dyes 
 Waved in the west-wind's summer sighs." 
 
 And thus it seemed to lis on the day tliat we crossed over the 
 Susquehanna, and after an hour's ride had found ourselves 
 passing the Narrows, which had been formed by the sepa- 
 ration of two thickly wooded mountains, that had been shiv- 
 ered apart by the forces of nature, and had nearly closed up the 
 road through them, so as to render it difficult for two teams, 
 which might be laden with timber from the distant hills and 
 driving sawmills, to pass each other on their way through this 
 narrow gorge, aiid left only sufficient room for our horse and 
 buggy to pass through them, while they waited for us by the 
 roadside. While we drove on our way to Harvey Pond, 
 
ISO DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APAUT. 
 
 about live miles from these Narrows, at tlie junction of twc 
 cross-roads whicli met at a point near the " Inn," which stands 
 at the division of these forks in the road, near a slight bridge 
 which spans a lively little stream, we found ourselves in a 
 quandary as to which of these paths we should take, but upon 
 inquiry from the hotel-keeper, who kept at the head of this 
 branch a public tavern for the accommodation of passengers 
 and teamsters, where they could find refreshment both for 
 man and beast, we were put straight, by his directing us to 
 take the first right-hand carriage-way, and to follow it on until 
 we should get to the village of Clerksville, — why so named we 
 were unable to learn from any man whom we met (for there 
 was neither court, house, nor clerk to be found at that place) ; 
 so moving on where the rocky highway passed, by the side of 
 a sawmill and a tannery, we hurried away from this town, 
 which contained but a few straggling tenements, and rode up 
 a very steep hill, until we at last reached the village of Dallas, 
 that was about four miles beyond. From this part of the 
 country we were told to take a forward course along the new 
 county highway, which would bring us in about two liours to 
 the point we sought on the lake ; and shortly after, having 
 picked up the hostler who was in charge of the stables at the 
 hotel near the pond, we had no further difficulty in arriving at 
 that mansion ; and after descending the last hill on the road to 
 be passed over, before landing at the end of our journey, from 
 the top of which we obtained the first view of the Avaters 
 which were lighting its surface with a gleam of light, as bright 
 to the eye as any sunshine painted on a landscape. As we had 
 arrived within a few hours of dinner-time we improved this in- 
 terval of time ; and, having first ordered our horse to be watered, 
 rublied down, and fed with five quarts of the best oats, we 
 walked down to the lake, or vathcr pond, as it is named hei'e 
 
rnOM TIIK SEA TO THE SUAIMITS. 181 
 
 Harvey Poiid. This sheet of water, which is surrounded 
 by woods and hills, that furnish plenty of hickory and oak for 
 the market, is situated in the heart of the mountains, about 
 twelve miles fi-om Wilkesbarre, at a height of twelve hundred 
 feet above tide-water. How in the name of things of wonder 
 it ever got up there in the bowl of these mountain ranges, has 
 been a puzzle to the geologists and savans. Common sense 
 might have suggested, that water always seeks its own level, 
 and that these ponds, like every other body of fresh water, 
 must have run into these lower basins by a very natural fall, 
 from the fountain head of those streams which had arisen 
 or sprung out of the trickling fountains of the rocks of a 
 higher latitude, far more elevated than this little piece of a 
 fresh-fish pond, where you can catch a few pickerel and perch, 
 and after Avaiting all day patiently, at one end of a fishpole 
 and a line, you may possibly be furnished with one speckled 
 trout for your table. But, as a mere lake, it is not at all re- 
 markable for its beautiful scenery, and only good as a quiet 
 mountain retreat, from the heated terms of summer; but if 
 turned into a proper place for speculation in timber, a few 
 years will mar all its picturesque aspects which its fine forest 
 now displays with its bordering garments of rich beauty 
 to embellish its marginals of graceful repose and harmonious 
 peace. A^^e heard, while there, that a company of Phila- 
 delphians intended to erect another hotel at this watering- 
 place. It is sadly needed ; for a more forlorn and shabby, 
 crumbling, and out of repair looking building we never saw 
 in our lives ; and had it not been for the capital dinner 
 provided us (without fish, — the very thing w^e supposed 
 would be had there), we should have fared very poorly. In 
 a short time after dinner we hurried away to make our 
 return home that evening; but, as it usually happens to a 
 
182 DPaFT TIIO'JGIITS WIDE AlWUT. 
 
 stranger, we took tlie wi'ong road back, and struck into the 
 crooked path at Leman's Corner, which would have carried us 
 to Huntington that night, and twenty miles in another entirely 
 opposite direction from Wilkesbarre ; for had it not been that 
 we hailed a farmer by the roadside, who Avas driving two pigs 
 home which had strayed from their pens, we should have had 
 to lodge out at some wayside inn that night, so we thanked 
 him for putting us right ; and after passing a new sawmill we 
 were directed by the miller to return straight back to Leman's 
 Corner, which we had passed already in our blundering fashion. 
 Now all this time the day was growing shorter, and there were 
 many queer-looking stragglers peering at us from the road- 
 side. From this point we were shown on the way to town, 
 and shortly after dusk we found our way to Iluntsvllle, where 
 all the finger-boards pointed straight to the places we were 
 seeking ; by the way, in trying to keep the two cushions 
 from slipping from under us, we actually dropped one in the 
 rear, out of the buggy into the mud of the streets. AVe have 
 always found it rather difficult to sit on two stools before, and 
 had we not given all our small change to the hostler at the 
 lake, we should have paid the boy, by whose attention we were 
 called to our loss, in some better coin than that of our hearty 
 thanks. You may be sure that we were in a great hurry to 
 progress onward that evening, for it was almost dark, and the 
 rain now began to pour in torrents, so we lifted the curtains 
 over our dashboard, put up the umbrella, and holding the 
 whip in the right hand, after discovering we had lost our 
 hickory stick which we had cut at the Prospect House, we 
 lashed the mare into a sweat all the vvay, until we had reached 
 the White Tavern, which we had first seen at the junction 
 near the bridge, of which we had already spoken during the 
 morning. It was nothing now but splash and dash through 
 
FROJI THE SEA TO THE SU5IMITS. 183 
 
 the mud and water ; we found the light fading away and the 
 shades of evening fast approaching ; four miles seemed now 
 to grow into six, as we passed along ; it always does on a 
 strange road, in a strange country, for did you ever know any 
 country folks who knew how to reckon the distance between 
 the mile-posts, where the schoolmaster was not abroad ? But 
 wc did have time to look through silvery shades of the green 
 woods as we whipped up our horse close to the rippling sounds 
 of the bright and rolling waters of the stream, which was 
 bounding away over the rocky brook, with its rapid current ; 
 dashing its fretted breakers over the pebbles and stones, and 
 murmuring with its cheerful, musical rip-raps, while we beheld 
 its course flowing all the way along, under our constant sur- 
 veilkmce, until it dashed out again into the gloomy shades of 
 the overhanging branches of the greenwood forests, as it swiftly 
 I'au its course along the banks and clitFs up to the Narrows, 
 whose ledges hem it in, where it was walled up on either side 
 of the rocky bulwark underneath the crags of the precipice, 
 until we passed out through the gorges of two mountain c...- 
 taiiis, which were now shutting out the daylight from all 
 sight of nature or of the stream. We then drove into the 
 Plains, where we again overlooked the transverse drifts of the 
 coal-mines, and started away by the side of the mills that were 
 closing their dams for the night, where we took up the mill- 
 wright who had worked there by day, to have him thank us 
 for our kindness, and we had to thank the stars for our safe 
 return home that night. 
 
ari)aptci- 23. 
 
 WALKS AND TALKS. 
 
 " Our vitals with laborious strife 
 Bear up the crazy load, 
 And drag the dull remains of life 
 Along the tiresome road." 
 
 After all the sight-seeing had bccii undertaken, there was a 
 retrospect of many pleasant subjects and some happy thoughts 
 to be considered that might lack remark unless they could be 
 summed up under a proper title peculiar to themselves. Thus 
 it happens when we look back in a revicAV of the past, over 
 many scenes of delight and pleasant prospects, which have 
 slipped our memory, it recurs to us, that our faults of omission 
 bear a heavy burden for repentance, and that the only way 
 to retrieve our errors is in the comforting assurance that our 
 backslidings should make us persevere. Thus we could never 
 have forgiven ourselves, if among many things whicb we have 
 omitted we had left unnoticed one pleasant walk, which caused 
 us on a beautiful morning to proceed on foot as far as the 
 spot which is denominated from its fine prospects " Liman's 
 Point." Thence you have a beautiful view at the bend of the 
 Ilivcr Susquehanna, looking towards the extreme end of the 
 valley, at a distance of somewhat seven miles, you perceive 
 
FROH THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 185 
 
 from a liigli ridge whicli overlooks tlie entire scope of the 
 bmdscape, the village of Nauticoke, in front, that is bordering 
 at the extreme limit of the coal range in this garden of beauty, 
 and know, from your previously gathered information, that in 
 this vicinity are the walled lines of Chickchinuey, where the 
 last ridge of the formations of the anthracite coal is checked 
 from any further discovery of its hoarded treasure, and forms 
 a permanent barrier to those hills, and here determines its 
 extreme limits and shuts it in as if by a door, from any fur- 
 ther extension of the formation. Hence the eye embraces a 
 stretch of view all along the graceful lines of the western 
 mountains for over twenty miles, and extends away back to the 
 high bluff at Campbell's Ledge. 
 
 On the other side of the river are the bright, white walls of 
 the village of Pl3"mouth, where the neat dwellings line the 
 shores of the long plains Avhich gradually recede to the border 
 of a range of elevated and thickly Avooded hills, and the whole 
 aspect of the town is dotted with a gift of industry and w^cU- 
 built houses, which seem at this distance like vessels of bril- 
 liant china, so cheerfully does the sunshine lighten up the 
 fronts of their neat dwellings, which are constructed here on 
 both sides of the path of the Northumberland Railroad. 
 
 There for several hours we were found gazing over this scene, 
 and it might have been prolonged until afternoon, had we not 
 determined to leave the valley for a journey beyond it. After 
 passing on our way back alongside of the lines of the Lehigh 
 Valley Road, we referred to our note-book, and leave for our 
 close the summary of our scattered notes. 
 
 One morning, we were quietly seated, Avith our head 
 thrown back at rest on the back of a high tonsorial chair, 
 undergoing the process of being shaved, while the barber plied 
 his razor with all the skill which distinguishes every figarc 
 
I8G DIIIFT lilOL'GIlTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 who is an adept in liis profession. This was in the shoj:», 
 which was very handy for the use of the guests of the hotel, 
 and right in sight of the wash-basins, which were there ar- 
 ranged in a row of bright porcehiin bowls, and lie in bas-relief 
 for washing off after his finishing touch and handling. Now, 
 this gentleman of color, a late offspring of civilization, since 
 Mr, President Lincoln's decree of freedom, or emancipation, 
 was very much given to gab, fond of gossip, as other che- 
 valiers of the hair all the world over, and seemed a bit of a 
 wag besides ; and, when he had completed his business with 
 us, we were highly amused by his telling us that he had been 
 in high glee during the early morn, at some rare sport, which 
 the boys of the village had mischievously gotten up for their 
 own amusement, wherein the townspeople's peace of mind 
 had been seriously disturbed, by these naughty urchins having 
 tied a large bulldog with a tin kettle on the end of his tail. 
 
 Thus invested in the posterior, he rushed furiously along the 
 street Avith the usual kie-hies of sharp yells and hideous 
 whinings, while the tin pan was hanging behind, making such 
 a loud racket over the paving-stones that the whole town 
 was alarmed by the shrieks and stampede of this enraged spe- 
 cimen of the canine. Now Figaro was only a darkey, but of a 
 respectable position in the society of the borough, and it was 
 very amusing to us to see how the German barkeeper rather 
 twitted hnn on his newly donned privileges as a citizen and 
 voter, since the epoch of human liberty lately established 
 under the administration of President Lincoln. Now, these 
 Germans have the assurance of the old boy, and have claimed 
 themselves to be of a superior race to the Americans, since the 
 day that Bismarck snubbed Louis Napoleon from the Rhine, 
 and breakfasted at Dresden after the morning's route, following 
 it up by the disastrous defeat of the Austrians at Sadowa ; 
 
FROM THE SKA TO THE SUMMITS. 187 
 
 but, if this is their special kind of pride, it results from their 
 preposterous nationality as one of the Teutonic race it; were 
 but reasonable for them to remember, and we suggest to them, 
 not to be too tonic in their physique ; that neither Schiller, 
 Goethe, nor Jean Paul Richter, nor any of their grand poets 
 put on such airs as these modern tipplers of lager beer, who in 
 consequence of smoking swell out like the bullfrog in ^Esop's 
 fable, who puffed out such a tremendous belly-flounder at the 
 ox across the pond, that it terminated his puerile existence as a 
 tadpole by the sad explosion of his boiler, which had burst 
 his vanity into pieces, and scattered his green bowels all 
 sprawling abroad over the land. 
 
 We note this little circumstance about the dog and the tin 
 kettle behind more for the sake of reading a lesson to tho 
 Allemains ; for, when one commences to blackguard another, it 
 is always the pot calls the kettle black as the ace of spades. 
 Between these ebullitions of hot strife, the dog's farcical ap- 
 pearance came in rather as a diversion, and had somewhat of 
 an effect to restore peace, by calling them off' from any further 
 quarrel or wrangling between these two aliens to the higher 
 domestic turmoil, which had aroused the whole town as the dog 
 and the tin pan appendage was thumping over the pavement, 
 uttering such dreadful kie-hies and yells, that one would sup- 
 pose that a demon was after him riding upon two sticks. 
 This evidently caused some excitement in the village, and the 
 rattling of the pan over the stones sounded so hideously 
 through the air, that it soon put a stop to the minor nuisance 
 of these two infuriated and scandalous combatants. Had there 
 been a large pail of water dashed or thrown in between their 
 fight, it would have had as good an effect as when performed 
 by a bucketful when dashed upon two pugilistic fighting 
 canines. 
 
188 DUIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 This novel kind of fun had rather excited his " risibles," 
 and wns an offset to the jeers of the barkeeper, his neighbor, 
 in the next room, for his continual jibes at him about his 
 color and newly assumed character as a freedman, who had 
 just then first enjoyed the privilege of voting for Mr. Gerry 
 as governor. Now there Avere some prejudices existing about 
 the rights of these freedmen, and a prevalent indisposition on 
 the part of the townspeople to treat such as intelligent beings; 
 and they were just now on the eve of an election, which was 
 then pending, and this pattern of ebony felt as independent as 
 a woodsawyer's clerk. The German had assumed a superi- 
 ority o\'er him in point of race — even aye these do that over 
 the American free-born ; and there was some little feeling 
 bre s/ing under this condition of a house divided against it- 
 self. The darkey considered himself a respectable barber; the 
 Dutchman twitted him for his skin, and solely on this account 
 treated him with disdain. 
 
 "VVe have only alluded to this little incident of the dog and 
 the tin pan at his tail for the sake of reading a lesson to the 
 ]^utchman, between whose antipathies to the negroes and those 
 of the Irishman the colored gentlemen are very likely to 
 prove the result of the proverb, that the gray horse may yet 
 turn out to be the better mare, and it often happens that in 
 such stupid disputations, it is always the " pot that calls the 
 kettle black." 
 
 However, it also reminded us of another occasion Avliea the 
 same trick was played in the Island of Martinique, during the 
 French and English wars, under the reign of the great Napo- 
 leon. This game in time of war is rather more serious, for on 
 one morning while the British troops were in garrison at the 
 fort — for they had gotten possession of the island — some of 
 the inhabitants smarting under their captivity got up a speci- 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS, IS? 
 
 men of the play of the Dog Tray, and kettle hehind at the 
 tail; and this interruption of the discipline of these marti- 
 nets so alarmed the town that the reveille was soimded, the 
 troops called to arms, the drums beat at barracks, and the 
 peace of the whole island was seriously disturbed, and remained 
 so until the order to quarters was resumed, when it was disco- 
 vered to be ouly fun, to their chagrin and ultimate satisfac- 
 tion, that the rattling of the tin pans which had been tied to 
 the dogs' tails, banging over the stones, was only a piece of a 
 joke, and not the roll of artillery wagons over the pavement. 
 Had this been otherwise it might have been a joke to the 
 garcons, but would have been death to the people. 
 
 We now pass from these two little points of our diversion to 
 state only that at this season of the year in which we visited 
 the valley, the autumnal changes of the leaves had just begun 
 to move from green to red, in most of the forest trees ; and 
 this reminded us of those clever lines we adopt from Hudibras, 
 whose comparison was in happy keeping with these changes at 
 the present tall of the year, — 
 
 " For like a lobster boiled, the mom 
 From green to red began to turn." 
 
 And no less appropriate is this to the condition of the scenery 
 about us in these regions to the flight of the birds who were 
 winging their way south, and also to the changes which were 
 causing the summer's guests who were staying their season at 
 the hotel to leave ; concerning some of whom it might be said, 
 
 " The harvest is passed, 
 The summer is ended, 
 And we are not saved," or mated. 
 
 And if that should not prove to be the case, we will brighten 
 
190 ni:iFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART, 
 
 your countenance, and cliangc the cast of your reflections, by 
 the following excellent piece, for your comfort, from John G. 
 Saxe, the poet, as in the fallowing rhymes, viz. : 
 
 THE LOBSTER: A FABLE. 
 
 A lobster who had changed his hue 
 
 From black to red, as others do, 
 
 By fairy aid survived the pain, 
 
 And tried to join his friends again. 
 
 Now when his fellow-lobsters note 
 
 The splendor of his crimson coat, 
 
 They feign would know how it could be 
 
 That such a dingy chap as he 
 
 Had managed since he left his bed 
 
 To get that brilliant suit of red. 
 
 The lobster smiled, and answered, " Well, 
 
 The story isn't hard to tell ; 
 
 I'm sure you'll say the cost was small: 
 
 It was being boiled, faith ; that was all." 
 
 This simple tale, perchance, may bear 
 ^ A lesson worthy of our care ; 
 Before we envy outward show. 
 And in our folly wish to share it, 
 'Twere well, perhaps, if we could know 
 What pains it costs the fools who wear it. 
 
 At the hotel we were favored with the company of a Pres- 
 byterian missionary, who Avas collecting funds for the Sea- 
 men's Society. He bore so striking a resemblance to the late 
 President Lincoln, that he has been often stopj)ed in the street 
 by strangers who mistook him for that honored chief. We 
 found other acquaintances in the hotel, and one from New 
 Jersey, who was a firmer, Avho related to us an anecdote about 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMJflTS. 191 
 
 a noble dog which he owned, who had proved to him not only 
 a watchful bulldog, but who could bully all the cows by the 
 nose and bring them to fodder, whether they wanted to go ov 
 not, by taking them resolutely by the nose ; in fact, as was 
 fi'om living in the country, this animal was of great service in 
 the faithful discharge of his trust, so that none of those strag- 
 gling soldiers who prowl around the farmhouses under the 
 pretence of hiring themselves out to service, ever dared to ap- 
 proach his dwelling from fear of this ferocious dog, whose 
 reputation was well established all about the country and the 
 neighborhood. In short, this animal had already protected 
 his household on two occasions, where two returned soldiers 
 had been to his house and a neighbor's, who proved to be 
 conspirators, and even worse; they were subsequently found 
 to have been old jailbirds, that had escaped from the State 
 Prison, and who, if their plans had not been foiled, would 
 have doubtless been as ready to murder as to steal. Such are 
 some of the risks of residing in the country. We were sur- 
 prised also to hear from a boy that he had walked over twenty 
 miles and back in one day, when he had been employed in 
 driving cattle to Whitehaven, and w^e were put to the blush, 
 not to boast any more of our feats as pedestrian ; for an insur- 
 ance broker, with whom we fell into a conversation while in the 
 cars, informed us that he had trotted all that day without any 
 success for his work, but at the age of sixty he had never gone 
 as far as Campbell's Ledge ; whilst in the contrast of these two 
 experiences we gained one advantage for our comfort, that we 
 had seen the one view, but had not performed an equal task as 
 both the others on their feet for any pay. Now it is about 
 time to come to the conclusion of these matters, after stating 
 that we found at the town of Wilkesbarre a Mr. Ogilvee, who 
 is a very clever photographer, and is not surpassed by any in 
 
192 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 the United States. We advised Lim by all means to attempt 
 out-of-door views, for with sucli views as were to be obtained 
 from such a fall as that of Solomon's, near the point of the old 
 sawmill near South Wilkesbarre and Prospect Rock, with 
 Harvey's Pond, and many of the coy little cascades which can 
 be reached on foot, at Laurel's Run, Bear's Creek, and among 
 the Rapids in the Lower Valley of Wyoming, he could not do 
 better than to obtain them, for they would furnish matter of 
 delight for the gratification of the many people of taste and 
 fashion who should visit the grand hotel of the Vallc}^ of Wyo- 
 ming, at Wilkcsbarre, on the Sus<}uehaniia. 
 
 Things now move along very quietly in the valley ; the 
 development of her mineral wealth has brought in people from 
 all parts of the world; while she has increased in wealth and 
 material prosperity, her romantic history has closed. The 
 shaft and the big tunnel have superseded stockade forts and 
 redoubts ; the puffing of the steam-engine and locomotives, as 
 they go whirling through the valley, give out other sounds 
 than that of the warhoop of the savage, or the shout and 
 screams of the suffering fugitives in their flight over the moun- 
 tains, from the conflagrations of their lighted burning dwellings. 
 
 " Peace be within her walls, and prosi^erity in her palaces." 
 
 And a sad episode will close the Romance of the Valley of 
 AVyoming, viz. : 
 
 THE STORY OF FRANCES SLOCUM : FOUND IN THE " HISTORY OF 
 WYOMING. NEW YORK, 1841." 
 
 It Avas in the autumn of the same year of the invasion of 
 Butler and Gi-en-gwah-to, at midday, when the men were 
 laboring in a distant field, that the house of Mr. Slocum was 
 suddenly surrounded by a party of Delawares, prowling about 
 
FKOir THE SEA TO THE SUMMTTS. 193 
 
 the valley in more earnest search, as it seemed, of plunder, 
 than of scalps or prisoners. 
 
 The inmates of the house, at the moment of the surprise, 
 were Mrs. Slocum and four young children, the eldest of whom 
 was a son, aged thirteen ; the second a daughter, aged nine ; 
 Frances Slocum, aged five ; and a little son, aged two years 
 and a half. Near by the house, engaged in grinding a knife, 
 Avas a young man named Kingsley, assisted in the occupation 
 by a lad. The first hostile act of the Indians was to shoot 
 down Kingsley, and take his scalp with the knife he had been 
 sharpening. 
 
 The girl, nine years old, appeared to have had the most 
 presence of mind, for while the mother ran into the edge of 
 the copse of wood near by, Frances attempted to secrete herself 
 behind a staircase, and the former seized her little brother, the 
 youngest above mentioned, and ran off in the direction of the 
 fort. True she could not make rapid progress, for she clung 
 to the child, and not even the pursuit of the savages could 
 induce her to drop her charge. The Indians did not pursue 
 her far, and laughed heartily at the panic of the little girl, 
 while they could not but admire her resolution. Allowing her 
 to make her escape, they returned to the house, and, after help- 
 ing themselves to such articles as they chose, prepared to depart. 
 
 The mother seems to have been hidden ; although Avith yearn- 
 ing bosom she had so disposed of herself, that while she was 
 screened from obsen-ation, she could notice all that occurred. 
 But judge of her feelings, at the moment they were about to 
 depart, as she saw little Frances taken from her hiding-place, 
 and preparations made to carry her away into captivity with 
 her brother, already mentioned as being thirteen years old, 
 who, by the way, had been restrained from attempted flight 
 by lameness in one of his feet, and also the lad who a few 
 
 9 
 
104 DSIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APAllT. 
 
 minutes before had been assisting Kingsley at the grindstone. 
 The sight was too much for maternal tenderness to bear. 
 Rushing from her place of concealment, she threw herself upon 
 l;er knees at the feet of her captors, and, with the most earnest 
 entreaties, pleaded for their restoration. But their bosoms 
 were made of sterner stuff than to yield even to the most elo- 
 quent and aflectionate of a mother's entreaties, and with charac- 
 teristic stoicism they began to move. As a last resort, the 
 mother appealed to their selfishness, and pointing to the 
 maimed foot of her crippled son, urged, as a reason why at 
 least they should relinquish him, the delays and embarrassment 
 he would occasion them on their journey. Being unable to 
 walk they would, of course, be compelled to carry him the 
 whole distance, or leave him by the Avay, or take his life. 
 Although insensible to the feelings of humanity, these con- 
 siderations had the desired effect. The lad was left behind, 
 while, deaf alike to the cries of the mother and the shrieks of the 
 child, Frances was shmg over the shoulder of a stalwart Indian, 
 with as much indifterence as though she was a slaughtered fawn. 
 
 The long, lingering look which the mother gave to her 
 child, as her captors disappeared in the forest, was the last 
 glimpse of her sweet features that she ever had. But the 
 virion was, for many a long year, ever present to her fancy. 
 
 As the Indian threw her child over his shoulder, her hair 
 fell over her face, and the mother could never forget how the 
 tears streamed down her checks when she brushed it away, as 
 if to catch a last sad look of the mother from whom, her little 
 arms outstretched, she implored assistance in vain. 
 
 Nor was this the last visit of the savages to the domicil 
 of Mr. Slocum. About a month thereafter another horde of 
 the barbarians rushed down from the mountains, and murdered 
 the aged grandfather of the little captives, £),nd wounded the 
 
FKOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 195 
 
 lad, already lame, by the accidental discliarge of a ball wMch 
 lodged in his leg, and which lie carried with him to his grave 
 more than half a century afterwards. 
 
 The years of a generation passed, and the memory of little 
 Frances was forgotten, save l>y the two brothers and a sister, 
 who, though advanced in the vale of years, could not forget 
 the family tradition of the lost one. Indeed, it had been the 
 dying charge of their mother, that they must never relinquish 
 their exertions to discover Frances. A change now comes 
 over the spirit of the story. It happened, that in the course 
 of the year 1835, Colonel Ewing, a gentleman connected with 
 the Indian trade, and also with the public service of the 
 country, in traversing a remote section of Indiana, was over- 
 taken by the night, while at a distance from the abodes of 
 civilized man. When it became too dark for him to pursue 
 his way, he sought an Indian habitation, and was so fortunate 
 as to find shelter and a welcome in one of the better sort. The 
 proprietor of the lodge was indeed opulent for an Indian, pos- 
 sessirig horses and skins, and other comforts in abundance. He 
 was struck, in the course of the evening, by the appearance of 
 the venerable mistress of the lodge, whose complexion was 
 lighter than that of her family ; and as glimpses were occa- 
 sionally disclosed of her skin, beneath her blanket robe, the 
 Colonel was impressed with the opinion that she was a white 
 Avoman. Colonel Ewing could converse in the Miami language, 
 to which nation his wife belonged, and after partaking of the 
 best of their cheer, he drew the aged squaw into a conversa- 
 tion, which soon confirmed his suspicions, that she was only 
 an Indian by adoption. Her narrative was substantially as 
 follows : — ■ 
 
 " My father's name was Slocum. He resided on the banks 
 cf the Susquehanna, but the name of the valley I do not recol- 
 
190 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 lect. Sixty winters and summers liavc gone since I was taken 
 captive by a party of Delawares, while I was playing before ray 
 father's liouse. I was too young to feel, for any length of time, 
 tbe misery and anxiety my parents must have" experiencerl. The 
 kindness and affection with which I was treated by my Indian 
 captors soon effaced my childish uneasiness, and in a short 
 time I became one of them. The first night of my captivity 
 was jiassed in a cave, near the summit of a mountain, but little 
 distance from my father's. That night was the unhappiest of 
 my life, and the impression which it made was the means of 
 indelibly stamping on my memory my father's name and 
 residence. For years we led a roving life. I became accus- 
 tomed to and fond of their manner of living. They taught me 
 the use of the bow and arrow ; the beasts of the forest supplied 
 me with food. I married a chief of our tribe, whom I had 
 long loved for his bravery and humanity, and kindly did he 
 treat me. I dreaded the sight of a white man ; for I was 
 taught to believe him the implacable enemy of the Indian. I 
 thought he was determined to separate me from my husband 
 and our tribe. 
 
 " After I had been a number of years with my husband, he 
 died ; a part of my people joined the Miamis, and I was among 
 them. I married a Miami, who Avas called by the palefaces 
 the deaf man. I lived with him a good many winters until he 
 died. I had by him two sons and two daughters. I am now 
 old, and have nothing to fear from the white man. My hus- 
 band, and all my children but these two daughters, my bro- 
 thers and sisters have all gone to the Great Spirit, and I shall 
 go in a few moons more. Until this moment I have never 
 revealed my name, nor told the mystery that hung over the 
 fate of Frances Slocimi." 
 , Such w^as the substance of the revelation to Colonel Ewinff. 
 
FKOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 197 
 
 Still the family at "Wyoming were ignorant of tlie discovery, 
 nor did Colonel Ewing know anything of tliem. And it was 
 onlj' by reason of a peculiar providential circumstance that the 
 tidings ever reached their ears. On Colonel Ewing's return to 
 his own home, he related the adventure to his mother, who, 
 ■with the just feelings of a woman, urged him to take some 
 measures to make the discovery known, and at her solicitation 
 he was induced to write a narrative of the case, which he ad- 
 dressed to the Postmaster at Lancaster, with a request that it 
 might be published in some Pennsylvania newspaper. But 
 the latter functionary having no knowledge of the writer, and 
 supposing it might be a hoax, paid no attention to it, and the 
 letter was suffered to remain among the worthless accumula- 
 tions of the office for two years. It chanced then that the 
 Postmaster's wife in rummaging over the old papers, while 
 ferreting the oflSce one day, glanced her eye upon this com- 
 munication. The story excited her interest, and with the true 
 feelings of a woman, she resolved upon giving the document 
 publicity. With this view she sent it to the neighboring edi- 
 tor, and here again another providential circumstance inter- 
 vened. It happened that a temperance committee had engaged 
 a portion of the columns of the paper to which the letter of 
 Colonel Ewing was sent; for the publication of an important 
 document connected wdth that cause, and a large extra number 
 of papers had been ordered for general distribution. The letter 
 was sent forth with the temperance document, and it yet again 
 happened that a copy of this letter was addressed to a clergy- 
 man, who had a brother residing at "Wyoming. Having from 
 that brother heard the story of the captivity of Frances Slocum, 
 he had no sooner read the letter of Colonel Ewing, than he 
 enclosed it to him, and by him it was placed in the hands of 
 Joseph Slocum, Esq., the surviving brother. 
 
198 DI'JFT THOUGHTS — "WIDE APART. 
 
 Any attempts to describe the sensations produced by this 
 most welcome, most strange, and most unexpected intelligence, 
 would necessarily be a failure. This Mr. Joseph Slocum was 
 the child, two years and a half old, who had been rescued by 
 his intrepid sister, nine years old. That sister also survived, 
 as did the younger brother, living in Ohio. Arrangements 
 were immediately made by the former two to meet the latter 
 in Ohio, and proceed thence to the Miami country, and reclaim 
 the long-lost and now found sister. " I shall know her if she 
 be my sister," said the elder sister, now going in pursuit, 
 " although she may be painted and jewelled off, and dressed 
 in her Indian blanket ; for you, brother, hammered off- her 
 finger-nail one day in the blacksmith's shop, when she was four 
 years old." 
 
 In due season they reached the designated place, and found 
 their sister. But, alas ! how changed ! Instead of the fair- 
 haired and laughing girl, — the picture yet living in their ima- 
 ginations, — they found her an aged and thoroughbred squaw 
 in everything but complexion. But there could be no mis- 
 take as to her identity. The elder sister soon discovered the 
 finger-mark. " How came the nail of that finger gone ? " 
 " My elder brother pounded it off when I was a little girl, 
 in the shop," she replied. This circumstance was evidence 
 enough ; but other reminiscences were awakened, and the re- 
 cognition was complete. How different were the emotions of 
 the parties ! The brothers paced the lodge in agitation. The 
 civilized sister was in tears. The other, obedient to the affected 
 stoicism of her adopted race, was as cold, unmoved, and 
 passionless as marble. 
 
 It was in vain that they besought their sister to return 
 with them to her native valley, bringing her children with her, 
 if she chose. Every offer and importunity was declined. She 
 
FEOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 199 
 
 said she was well enougli off, and happy. She had, moreover, 
 promised her husband on his death-bed never to leave the 
 Indians. Her two daughters had been married, but one of 
 them Avas a widow. The husband of the other is a half-breed, 
 named Brouillette, who is said to be one of the noblest-look- 
 ing men of his race. They all have an abundance of Indian 
 wealth ; and her daughters mount their steeds, and manage 
 them as well as in the days of chivalry did the rather mas- 
 culine spouse of Count Robert of Paris. They lived at a place 
 called the Deaf Man's Village, nine miles from Peru, in Indi- 
 ana. But notwithstanding the comparative comfort in which 
 they lived, the utter ignorance of their sister was a subject of 
 painful contemplation to the Slocums. She had entirely for- 
 gotten her native language, and was completely a pagan, having 
 no knowledge even of the white man's Sabbath. 
 
 Mr. Joseph Slocum has since made a second visit to his sis- 
 ter, accompanied by his two daughters. Frances is said to 
 have been delighted with the beauty and accomplishments of 
 her white nieces, but resolutely refused to return to the abode 
 of civilized man. She resided with her daughters in a com- 
 fortable log building ; but in all her habits and manners, her 
 ideas and thoughts, she is as thoroughly Indian as though not 
 a drop of white blood ran in her veins. She is represented as 
 having manifested, for an Indian, an miwonted degree of plea- 
 sure at the return of her brothers. But mother and daugh- 
 ters spurned every persuasive to win them back from the 
 country and manners of their people. Indeed, as all their 
 ideas of happiness are associated with their present mode of 
 life, a change would be productive of very little good so far as 
 temporal affairs are concerned ; while, unless they could be won 
 from Paganism to Christianity, their lives would drag along in 
 irksome restraint, if not in pining sorrow. 
 
^^ 
 
 ^s 
 
 ^p 
 
 ^^ 
 
 M 
 
 B 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^^ 
 
 t^^ 
 
 B 
 
 ^3 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 DEPARTURE FROil THE VALLEY. 
 
 " Est aliquid, quoounque loco, quocunqite recessu, 
 Unius sese dominum fecisse laeertte." 
 
 Juvenal, Satire Hi. 230. 
 
 Late in afternoon of the last day that we spent at Wilkes- 
 barre, we crossed the river to Kingston, Avhere we took the 
 train for Northumberland. In the cars we seated ourselves 
 alongside of an intelligent photographer, who was leaving for 
 a hunting excursion among the woods in the northern part of 
 Pennsylvania. He was telling us his troubles about a lawsuit, 
 which was waiting, on the calendar, to be called in the 
 fall, whcrem he was prosecuting a neighbor in the town, 
 who insisted in putting up a blank wall in front of his own pre- 
 mises, which would have entirely shut out his ancient lights, 
 and destroy all the rights he had to the sky ; for you well 
 know, that when a man has any privileges at all in fee, he 
 peremptorily holds the proprietorship of the soil in himself 
 alone, " ab subterraneam jusque ad coelum," from the cellar to 
 the top, or from the foundation up to the heavens. Tliat his 
 
FROJI THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 201 
 
 windows arc liis sole and exclusive propertj^, atid nobody else 
 has a right to overlook him, or shut out his sky-light, or to 
 obstruct his panes of glass. For, as the old satirist Juvenal 
 says, " it is something very desirable to the happiness of man, 
 if he is the lordly owner but of one little acre of land." We 
 told him that his case was one of a very grievous nature, but 
 that he would surely beat his adversary, although he was a 
 Jew who was his opponent. Much to our great discomfort, 
 however, a drunken Englishman entered the car, and annoyed 
 us with his hiccups and bluster. So that we certainly thought, 
 from these exhibitions of this impudent fellow, that he was 
 from the old country, and weird County of Northumberland, iu 
 England proper. However, we were soon rid of this nuisance, 
 for we left him at Plymouth, near the raging canal, which was 
 bordering on the stony Ledges of Chickchinny. Thence he 
 started off to his roost, under the hillside, and left us to enjoy 
 the rest of our ride over the road in peace and quiet, until we 
 were obliged to be separated from our companion, the artist, 
 at the Rupert Station. By this time it was getting quite late, 
 and darkness had overspread our path, as we were passing from 
 the limits of Lucerne County, into the regions of the Catawissa 
 River. We could just see the glaring flames, which were issu- 
 ing out of the fiery furnaces at Danville, where the largest iron- 
 works among the hills are located, where the well-charged 
 mountains are impregnated with the richest beds of this ore 
 at one side of the river, and fill up the measures of those cliffs 
 on the opposite ridges, that bear in adjoining lodes a great 
 abundance of very good coal, and thick banks of the right kind 
 of clay, in close proximity, so admirably well adapted, and 
 ever ready at hand to form a lively fusion, at the proper cast- 
 ing of these metals. In this respect it is remarkably situated ;* 
 and the result is a large increase in favor of the productive 
 
 9* 
 
202 DPaFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 capital wliicli is invested there, to swell the profits of the 
 manufactui'ers. 
 
 The sight of a whole surface of fire gushing out of the flames 
 of bituminous gases, that were shedding a lurid glare of bril- 
 liant light throughout the whole surface of the county for 
 miles, was as if the plumes of a long sheet of flame were 
 pouring out from the burning crater of a blazing volcano, and 
 when thus viewed at night presented a flood of wild conflagra- 
 tion, which is not to be seen in any other section of this 
 country, even should you travel further than from Danville to 
 Beersheba, where there is supposed to be water enough in her 
 wells, amply sufficient to put out all these rivers of melting 
 lava scoria, and as quickly extinguish their hot fury, and in 
 as short a time as that which was denoted by an Italian, Avho 
 once said to us whilst we were bragging in our vainglory 
 about our Big Falls at Niagara, " if he could only get you to 
 Italy," he will show a stream of liquid fire bursting out from 
 the mouth of our Vesuvius which would drown your old cata- 
 ract in a jiffy and five seconds, " Vedi Napole poi mori." See 
 that at Naples and then die, or shut up your braggadocio, — 
 after you have mourned over the ruins at Pompeii, for your 
 shame and reproach at your own vanity and pomposity. 
 
 The remainder of our trip was passed in the dark, and it 
 was midnight before we reached the town of Northumberland, 
 which might as well be termed North Lumberland, from the 
 great quantities of timber which can be cut from the thick 
 forests of the adjoining mountains, or in this vicinity, from 
 whence the large logs which are seen straggling all over the 
 surface of the rivers Avere thrown, and are now either thrust 
 up into the sluices of the streams, where they are riding in a 
 blocked mass of confusion, or are held in check by the sand- 
 bars, to create such a formidable barricade in this arrest on 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 203 
 
 tlieir progress, as to clioke up the currents and form a peiTua- 
 nent coffer-dam. These, separated from the rafts which once 
 bound them together, have been ripped apart from their 
 fastenings by the violent forces of nature, and after having 
 drifted along, have been caught by the tides and driven 
 ashore, to remain where they had been cast, or to rot away as 
 lost, or until these waifs and strays shall have been claimed by 
 their original owners, each of whom reclaims his particular 
 logs by a certain proprietary mark, which is recognized when- 
 ever seized by each individual who has a right to this property. 
 Such are some of the evidences of fury of the whirlwind 
 which have stripped the hills, and violence of storms after they 
 were thrust down, driven from their native forest homes, to be 
 broken apart in their headlong plunges over the falls, and 
 having been thrashed into a thousand splinters, are fearfully 
 wrecked by the swollen torrents, which have shivered their 
 masts into broken fragments, which Avere overwhelmed by the 
 tornado, and recklessly heaving, now lie there under the wild 
 outbursts of the spring freshets, which rend them asunder, 
 to be floated in tottering trepidation along the waves of the 
 current and over the rapids, which hurry them on to destruc- 
 tion and premature decay. 
 
 After leaving the train we were guided by a man, to be 
 lodged ill a neat little family hotel, kept by a widow, which 
 was situated about half a mile off, just opposite the park. 
 
 While we were about to enter it, our attention was called 
 off to the crowd which was gathered outside, next the square, 
 attentively listening to the orator on the stump of a huge old 
 hickory-tree, that stood before the door. He was a politician 
 by trade, who was bawling out by the torchlight, with the 
 usual vociferous strain, about " the corruptions of the country ;" 
 " those vile traitors who always were so eager after the spoils ;' 
 
204 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 " tlie contractors who had gotten rich on shoddy ; " and about 
 " the necessity of vigilance ; " " that eternal price of our na- 
 tional safety ; " " that Gerry was the man for the people," — 
 he was not a " nigger," because he had preferred to be true 
 on the question of the blacks, nor had he the nigger on the 
 brain ; " that Curtin had been derelict in his duty, for he did 
 certainly run away from Pennsylvania when the rebel rascals 
 had invaded the State ; and having shirked his constituents in 
 time of their extreme need, would prove to be a bad candidate 
 as a Governor of this Commonwealth in time of peace ; " and 
 therefore as he could not perform a ' Gerry-mander ' which is 
 only * the German,' that is now all the rage in fashionable 
 society, but in the strange jargon of politics is defined to be 
 read thus — as if it wore a placard on the walls for a menagerie 
 show ; " you can't turn a cameleopard into a giraffe by cut- 
 ting his tail in two, or by leaving it bare of the spots." After 
 hearing such stuff as this speech was composed of, — to be 
 blown to the winds in a bluster, as chaff, at which the people 
 pulled off their hats, and hurrahed for Andrew Johnson, — he 
 who in the sorry times of Devildom, was 
 
 " Faithful found 
 Among the faithless, faithful only he, 
 Among innumerable false, iinmov'd, 
 Unshaken, unseduced, unterrified. 
 His loyalty he kept, his love, his zeal. 
 Nor number, nor example with him wrought, 
 To swerve from truth, or change his constant mind, 
 Though single. 
 
 Jolin Milton's Paradise Lost. 
 
 Wlio is only Old Hickory — Andrew Jackson revived on 
 earth. So then down with the impeachment of the President, 
 and off with the heads of the lladicals, or the masses will call 
 
FEOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 205 
 
 out for the ghost of old Samuel, as when of old, Saul held 
 a consultation with the witch of Endor ; and also just so, 
 — as the people in mobs in London did once upon a time in 
 England, in the rabid days of Bolingbrolce, — and so fright- 
 ened the witch and poor Saul that he bowed down his head 
 with fear, and had to devour a calf, for he was scared out of 
 his wits ; so that the end of such men as those who are now 
 disturbing our peace, will be worse in their sad fall from that 
 wrathful mete of the judgment of this nation's displeasure, 
 whenever it was fully waked up to cast them into the treach- 
 erous jaw of the British Lion, or in the maw of the French 
 Frog, a la Napoleon, and little Max, in Mexico. We entered 
 the hotel, paid our half-dollar to the landlord in advance for a 
 night's lodging in the garret, and then went to sleep after set- 
 ting our watch at precisely five o'clock, for the morrow, at 
 which hour the shrill clarion of a crowing cock woke us up, 
 before even the watchman had approached to announce that he 
 was then ready to conduct us to the train of cars which would 
 be coming up from Harrisburg at five o'clock a. m. Since 
 eternal vigilance is the price of every traveller's safety, we 
 recommend all such never to go entirely to sleep when you 
 are at one of those wayside taverns, but doze slyly, with a cat- 
 nap, with only one eye kept open, and you will then be sure 
 to wake up at the very point of time at which you have set 
 your time-piece ; for if you don't you may be left over for the 
 next midnight train, which will put you out of humor, and 
 cause you to hurry away from such a sleepy hollow of a place as 
 this at Northumberland might then prove. 
 
 At five o'clock, having seen the first blush of the morning 
 arise over the hills, we again started off on our way to Lock- 
 bavcn. It was quite daylight before we reached the first range 
 of those most beautiful hills that mark the uplifting of the 
 
206 DRIFT THOUGHTS MIDE APART. 
 
 North uraberlaiicl rocky bamers ; these stood aloof from the 
 valleys of the lich fertile farming-lands which Avere bordering 
 the plains, before \vc arrived at Watsontown, "where the road 
 ran alongside of the canal, and so close to the overhanging 
 Avails of an high impending bluff, that very little room was left 
 for the passage of a single train of cars. It was here at a short 
 turn that we met with a sudden mishap, which had very 
 nearly jiut a &top to any further progress, only to show us 
 that, 
 
 '• There is many a slip 
 Betn^eeii the cup and the hp." 
 
 For it happened early in the morning, and not one of us had 
 breakfasted. The cars were moving very swiftly over the tracks 
 when we experienced a very sharp rough and rattling jar, from 
 some arrest in their motion, and from a queer shocking kind 
 of vibration, Avhich shook the passengers from off their seats, 
 Avc were fully roused to a sense of an approaching danger, that 
 produced a very irregular trembling through our nerves, but we 
 were all the more surprised by the rapid flight of one of the 
 hind wheels into the water of the canal. Whilst every head 
 was quickly thrust out of the windows, when the splash ruffled 
 the surface of the basin ; and after a continuous rattling of the 
 dragging carriages, which Avere feeling the fierce grip of the 
 iron breaks, underneath their throbbing centres, Ave came to a 
 short halt in a heap of confusion. 
 
 We all took this impending disaster A'cry cheerfully, although 
 our further progress Avas thus stopped for some time. It had 
 been discovered that the Avheels had become quite overheated. 
 So Ave concluded they had gone into the Avater to cool off. It 
 Avas ascertained at length from our examination, Avhen some 
 of us were compelled to leave our scats, and had been landed 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 207 
 
 outside upon the gravel path, that the main fault was occa- 
 sioned in the breakiuo; of an iron axle under the luwao-e car. 
 This was not much to get troubled about. After all this musi? 
 was settled down, — first, having cautioned the ladies to keep 
 their seats, and be as quiet as possible under the circumstances, 
 those dear little darling creatures are so apt to go into hysterics 
 well-named by some " Aes-stir-ike," accented with an asterisk; 
 for they also see stars sometimes from the bottom of their deep 
 bottomless wells in this Valley of Aclior, which we who act 
 only as their proxies may be j^ermitted at times to turn into 
 sweet hopes of joyful and sweet bliss, for their comfort while 
 they repose on our bosoms in as quiet a state of rest or non- 
 clialance, as stricken doves, — without even a flutter of their 
 wings. For we never knew one of these dear angels to get 
 frightened at a female ; besides they have another consolation 
 in that if they lose one of us they can soon get another, "for 
 the living dog is better than a dead lion." 
 
 They did sit down after one or two small shrieks, which drc-.v 
 them closer together, as they clung close to the arms of their 
 male protectors; after a little effort, we induced them to make 
 the most of their misfortune, — and they took our persuasion 
 very meekly ; and shortly after this the Avhole crowd were found 
 walking along the track towards the nearest station for breakfast. 
 Discretion, which is the better part of valor, led many to take 
 our advice, and leaving the engineer to uncouple his locomo- 
 tive engine, until he could telegraph for aid, we, the first of this 
 flock of sheep, led the way for a tramp, along the rails, of about 
 two miles on foot, and soon all the other sheep who were 
 astray followed after us, not excepting the dear little lambs, 
 the ladies. We were our ourselves helped along after a little 
 while by two or three soldiers, who were taking a loaded 
 wagon over the mountain, to fetch some logs, out of the river 
 
208 - PBIKT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 near the Williarasport mills, whicli were located beyond this 
 spot, and within the sight of the bold lines of the Grey Eagle 
 Cliffs, that were now visible from the side of a bridge as it 
 spanned the canal, into which our wheel had been tossed at 
 the time of this accident. 
 
 Had we not paid our fare in advance, we should have been 
 tempted to join them in this drive, which would have enabled 
 us to get some better glimpses of the grand forest scenery 
 which is to be viewed from the summit of these nol)le hills. 
 However, we soon parted from the boys in blue near AVatson- 
 town village, at which place we arrived shortly afterwards, and 
 seated ourselves on the porch of an inn before the remaining 
 passengers could get into the hotel. 
 
 We had no sooner reached it than we bolted from our seat, 
 then rushed into the kitchen to order forward a fine breakfast 
 for this grand party of hungry animals, who were a pack of 
 forlorn castaways. For here Avas a body of starving people 
 who had mustered into a party of forty, and these were sup- 
 posed to have become rather hungry by this time. AVe are 
 particular about this number, and bargained for this stock in 
 advance at fifty cents a head ; for some j^eople pretend that 
 they can keep themselves alive without eating. Such, no doubt, 
 depend on the air for their support or else smell out their 
 subsistence through their noses as they pass along the base- 
 ment of other people's areas, where there are nice kitchens 
 which are fuming hot with the odorous scents of nicely 
 roasting meats, which, rising out of the gratings through the 
 sidewalks on to the streets, are sucked in between the sieves 
 of their teeth, with a smacking gusto of lip-salve for their 
 morning or evening service, and who take this kind of quiet 
 satisfaction for their daily support. Now as true philosophers 
 of the Grahaiu-brcad School, we despise such miscreant 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 209 
 
 worshippers of the Pharisee sect ; so we let them each pay 
 their own fare, and we paid what was due, for we were not on 
 tlie free list, and charity with us always begins at home. 
 
 "We have enough for all," said the landlord, Boniface, 
 who wag very much pleased at this windfall. "Ham and 
 eggs with potatoes, and a glass of fresh milk besides, if that 
 will suit you on a pinch." So that one man's meat, in 
 this case, did not exactly prove to be all other men's poison ; 
 for " it is an ill wind that blows no man any good ; " which 
 was heartily repeated by us, as all the passengers who had now 
 come up were pushing into the dining-room to devour the 
 provisions that had been spread out on the breakfast-table in 
 their hurry to get their first grab at the fodder, which was 
 now found to be sufficient for the whole crowd that came in 
 after us. Then we had a scene ; while one fair lady became so 
 foint from the fright and the fatigues of her early morning ante- 
 prandial walk on an empty stomach that one of our friends 
 in the sitting-room had to give her a dram from his pocket-pis- 
 tol, which had been filled with the very best of Cognac brandy 
 by some kind friends before he had left the " La Pierre 
 House " in Philadelphia that day ; and, upon the whole, it was 
 an occasion of great merriment to all who were now seated in 
 the front parlor, congratulating ourselves on our narrow escape 
 from the accident that had been caused by a flaw in the iron 
 axle, and was so far hidden from the inspection of the workmen 
 at the foundry that no blame could be attached either to the 
 manufacturer in the city or the conductor of this train. 
 "Therefore, as nobody was killed, nobody was hurt" but 
 the company, who by law had been legally constituted a corpo- 
 ration, and as such have no souls the iron could enter into its 
 body or that of any of the directors. 
 
 This afitxir led on to the narration by some of the gentlemen 
 
210 
 
 DEIFT THOUGHTS — AVIDE APART. 
 
 of several other accidents that liad happened on the line of the 
 Pennsylvania and Erie Road, -when this railroad had not been 
 so ■well managed as it is at the present time, and might have 
 occurred to any engineer from an oversight in the contraction 
 of the iron shafts at the rolling-mills in the city of Newark, 
 Philadelphia, or elsewhere. AVe stayed there four hours waiting 
 for the completion of the mending up of this break-down, 
 which originated in one rear wheel of the cars behind the 
 wood-tender ; having left the whole charge of all the damage 
 which was done to the train in the hands of the skilful engi- 
 neer and his body of able assistants, — considering it was their 
 business to make the necessary repairs, surely not ours to 
 put such matters as these to rights, — with the aid of some of 
 the firemen, we were then enabled to start oflF for Williams- 
 port before the noon of that day. 
 
WATSONSTOWN. 
 
 " The talk 
 Man holds with the week-day man, in the hourly walk 
 Of the world's business." 
 
 AVhen yve had again located ourselves in one of tlic sleep 
 ing-cars — for tliis was the night train from Baltimore we had 
 taken — we found ourselves in the same apartment with a 
 couple of very gentlemanly and intelligent persons for our com- 
 panions, on the route beyond the town of Watson, where we had 
 breakfasted, one of whom had been of great service to the army 
 as a Commissioner for the supplies of the troops which had 
 been enlisted by the late Governor Yates, of Illinois, and after- 
 wards had been very serviceable to General Grant, who made 
 him one of his staff officers on account of the efficient ser\'ices 
 which he had rendered him, by reorganizing the Quarter- 
 master's department for the better provisionment of the de- 
 mand which the government had to fulffi in their requirements, 
 so far as regards good forage and war carriages for the West- 
 ern Brigades ; thereby rendering valuable aid and assistance to 
 the United States during the late Rebellion, in their contracts 
 for the ordnance and provisions which Avere promptly and 
 abundantly provided by him. 
 
212 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 The otlier was a learned physician, from the town of Cam 
 den, in New Jersey. Both these gentlemen were going home 
 on a visit to their wives. The former was bomid for Tona- 
 wanda, in New York, the other for the place called the Jersey 
 Shore, which was situated at a point on the hills, which was 
 distant only a few miles, between Williamsport and Lock- 
 haven, in Pennsylvania. We had many pleasant subjects for 
 our mutual entertainment, by the conversation which was car- 
 ried on between us, and as we passed along the various villages 
 by the roadside our time was very agreeably beguiled by 
 several anecdotes. We left one at the former town, and the 
 other at the depot that was to be the stopping-place for the 
 Doctor, who found a carriage ready awaiting to take him to 
 the latter, which was the home of his father-in-law, who re- 
 sided at this place called " the Jersey Shore." 
 
 Whilst speaking with the Commissioner on the way up we 
 were delighted with several descriptions of fine scenery, lively 
 warfare, as well as by an account of the healthy climate to be 
 met with in the region about Lake Superior, and its copper- 
 mines, and of its value in some cases of consumption, where in 
 one instance an invalided young lady of his acquaintance had 
 been cured of that disease, by going into the higher and cooler 
 altitudes of this lake, in order that her exhausted lungs might 
 be oxygenated by a fresh supply of the Simon Pure carbon, for 
 her recuperation, — whom he had not met for several years 
 until after his return from the wars; and she then answered 
 him, when he had inquired about her health, " I am as you 
 see me, healthy and robust, from taking your excellent advice ; 
 went to the region which you recommended, and now can not 
 only go a sleigh-riding all through the winter, but can dance 
 all night at the balls, and am now as sound as a nut." 
 
 Thus occupied, we had been riding on together until we 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 213 
 
 caught sight of all the beautiful hills and streams which were 
 bordering on the valley of the Susquehanna. And at a short 
 distance beyond Watsonville, a thrifty and snug little village, 
 where there was a female seminary, all the houses appeared to 
 be as neatly built as any of those which are found to delight 
 your sight in any w^ell-ordered and whitely-painted dwellhigs 
 in any of the towns in New England. 
 
 We obtained a near view of some painted rocks, which having 
 been become impregnated with iron rust, were changed with a 
 tone of dark bright red, burnt sienna-like color, which glared 
 out from the ribbed clefts in the rugged walls, to furnish a rich 
 and brilliant effect, from their summits to the base, and pre- 
 sented a very glowing aspect, which looked far more gay to the 
 eye of the beholder when the bright morning sun gilded them 
 with rays of its more gorgeous and ruby tinted phases, while 
 the dark toning of the oozing carburetted drippings which 
 were then stealing creepingly down the face of the moist 
 trickling and burnished surface, united to enhance the beauty 
 of these painted ridges. 
 
 There were fine farming- lands to be inspected, all along the 
 valley of this river, and the mountains were all very thickly 
 wooded with heavy timber, imtil we reached the city of Wil- 
 liamsport, after passing over a long sheltered framework of its 
 wooden bridge. 
 
 The grand hotel which has been erected at this place for the 
 accommodation of summer boarders, and for the general tra- 
 velling and business public, is not a whit smaller in its propor- 
 tions than the St. Nicholas Hotel in New York. 
 
 We ascended to the top to stand on its roofe, and from the 
 four corners of the canvassed platform .of this caravansera we 
 obtained one of the finest views in this region. One promi- 
 nent nob lifted its sugar-loaf dimensions right in front of the 
 
214 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 northern approacli, through the ridges of two opposite hills, 
 which seemed almost to close up the whole of the valley, aa 
 if there would be no getting beyond this obstruction ; and all 
 round were the frame buildings of the structures, where twenty- 
 two mills were sawing lumber into boards, for the distant 
 markets of Pennsylvania and New York. Here was au influx 
 of heavy capital, and most of the inhabitants had emigrated 
 here from the East ; and on all sides from South and West we 
 observed an appearance of active industry, which showed how 
 admirably situated was this bustling and busy and thriving 
 city, from its eligible position amid the heavy resources of 
 abounding wealth, which were lodged in the surrounding and 
 luxurious hills, to fix the establishment of a vast treasure- 
 house wherein to store products from all parts of the country, 
 and in immense quantities that had been richly gathered at 
 this point, where extensive wood-crowned heights contained 
 forests of heavy timber, and noble rivers had joined in magni- 
 ficent proportions, and combined with teeming minerals in rich 
 mines, together with plains abounding in fertile agriculture, to 
 illustrate and consecrate into one harmonious and glorious 
 union, — social comforts and domestic happiness as the pros- 
 perous result of untiring industry and good fellowship for the 
 peaceful habitation of these great builders of the world, who 
 are after all but living stones, Avhose foundations are laid by an 
 overruling Providence, deeper than the earth to raise up the 
 temples, whose walls shall not extend merely to the heavens, 
 because " in the iSfeiv Jerusalem there were no temples there, 
 but we shall see the Holy City coming down from God out of 
 heaven, and the tabernacle of God shall be with men, and He 
 will dwell with them, and they shall be His people, and God 
 shall be their God, and He shall wipe all tears from their eyes : 
 for the former things are passed away ; and the building of 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 
 
 215 
 
 that wa]l was of jasj^er, and the city was jiure gold, like iinto 
 clear glass, and the foundations of the wall of that city were 
 garnished with all manner of precious stones, and the Lord 
 God Almighty and the Lamb are the temple of it, for the 
 glory of the Lord did lighten it, and the Lamh is the light 
 thereof." — Vide Revelation, 30th Chapter. 
 
(!II)aptcr 23. 
 
 BLACK HEATH COAL-MINES. 
 
 " Go, soft cntluiMast I quit the cypress groves, 
 Nor to the rivulet's lonely mourning tune 
 Your sad sad complaint 1 Go, seek the cheerful haunta 
 Of men, and minttle with the bustling crowd. 
 Lay schemes for wealth or power or fame, — the wish 
 Of nobler minds, — and push thciii night and day. 
 Or join the caravans in quest of scenes 
 New to your mind and shifting every hour 
 Beyond the Alps, beyond the Apennines; 
 Forget all softer and less manly cares.'" 
 
 Where the Loyal Sock's rocky ridges front the shallower 
 waters of the now widening Susquehanna's streams, and just 
 in the rear of the Fallon House, you get a first strong impres- 
 sion of the fact of your having arrived at the city of Lockhaven. 
 It was here that we were to put a stop to our wanderings 
 any farther north. AVe had left the Doctor at the last station 
 of the " Jersey Shore," and were landed at this inn, where we 
 were carried by the omnibus to deposit our valise in the 
 entry ; but when we discovered that the party to whom our 
 letter was addressed had actually started off" in the train during 
 the past Aveek, we felt somewhat disheartened, for we had 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 217 
 
 counted much on finding Major C , who was supposed to 
 
 be still at his residence in this place. 
 
 When a man goes to the play and finds that the part of 
 Hamlet has been left out, or sees the character of Othello 
 minus any Desdemona to mate him, there is a sort of fellow 
 feeling that does not make you wondrous wise ; so in this case 
 
 was the effect of the loss of our Major C as in a syllogism, 
 
 wherein the minor was missing from the middle premise — in 
 order to complete a perfect apprehension, in our judgment, 
 about the coal mines. There we stood alone in the centre of 
 the hall with our black valise in deposit on the floor — that 
 once suspicious-looking piece of baggage — since the hotels 
 were at a time tried to be set on fire at New York ; a solitary 
 stranger without a man to greet us, and not one single soul to 
 cheer us, excepting the "boots" and the "porter." The 
 relief for our distress came shortly after we had registered our 
 names at the desk, and upon showing the book-keeper our letter 
 of introduction, he informed us "that the clerk of the mine 
 we were seeking to visit was then in the barber's shop, and 
 in the absence of the superintendent he might possibly answer 
 our purpose quite as well." After a proper search this gentle- 
 man was found, and with his assistance the Major's horse and 
 buggy was procured for our trip ; and very soon after dinner 
 we were on our way to examine the mysteries of the Tanga 
 Scotac "mine." 
 
 Accompanied by Mr. T., we were soon driven along by the 
 north fork of the Susquehanna, and passed on beside this stream, 
 as it ran along the base of the well-wooded mountains, which 
 were but spurs of the Grey Eagle Cliffs. We were delighted 
 to find a sort of satisfaction (for our failure in not meeting 
 
 the President C.) at the hospitable mansion of Mr. S d, 
 
 who was a friend of my companion in this voyage, where we 
 
 10 
 
218 DKIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 were very pleasantly entertained by tlie ladies of Ms excCi 
 lent and cultivated family ; and were treated with all the cour- 
 tesy, which is but a meet compliment for a meet stranger, 
 whose approach was welcomed, in that proper distribution of 
 apples and grapes, with a glass of wine, which is but the kindly 
 supplement due from the ladies to one of our sex, after the 
 manner of that first awful sinister treat, which one of the fair 
 creatures gave us, as her first gift to mankind, when fair Eve 
 handed us the apple, at the devil's suggestion. The result of 
 which was that we have been their much endeared toadies 
 ever since ; while they have always worn satin and frogs, and 
 every specimen of animated nature as ornaments on their 
 dresses. Oh ! vanity of vanities ! and yet, Avhy is it that we 
 men should almost lose our wits at the very sight of a female, 
 or are charmed into a flutter of delight with the least glimpse 
 or flourish of a petticoat, with its butterfly colors — as to call 
 forth this tine sentiment from the poet, in admiration of her 
 whenever she shows, 
 
 " Her feet beneath her petticoat, 
 Like little mice run in and out 
 As if they feared the light." 
 
 Or when she walks along the streets, if she should but greet 
 us with a smile at our infirmity, which compels us to exclaim, 
 "sub rosa;'''' 
 
 " She moves a goddess and she walks a queen." 
 
 And such homage we are bound to yield them, in spite of Miss 
 Martineau's opinion to the contrary — that wise and virtuous old 
 woman, in her love for the blacks ; who wrote in the back of 
 her book of travels in America, that the only poetical things 
 
FR03I THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 219 
 
 she saw in America, were those white-winged, swift-sailing 
 sloops which she viewed from her window, passing up and 
 down the Hudson, which ideas of this strong-minded female 
 spinster, Ave are compelled to contradict very flatly ; for all 
 poetry has been moved from a feminine inspiration ; and no 
 poet ever gave credit to any male muse, no more than any 
 woman ever gave a foir character to any of her owai sex, but he 
 ever begins his invocation to some female goddess, as in these 
 noted and hackneyed words ! — Oh ! muse, etc., in his idolatrous 
 worship of the sex, in the shape of some unknown heathen 
 goddess whom he imagines to be sitting among the clouds on 
 top of Olympus ; surely Poeta nascitur, non fit, and Venus 
 herself, fond daughter of Jupiter, rose out of the sea-shell 
 Li her birth ; but when we see a woman, she is sure to give us 
 fits. No doubt these ladies thought they had seen an extra- 
 ordinary guest hovering among their household, and we left 
 them in a state of amazement or wondrous torpidity. Then 
 we started to drive off, after we had shot off one or two sky- 
 rockets of wit, sparkling behind us : such as " Blessings brighten 
 as they take their flight," or " Welcome bids them smiling in, 
 while farcxoell shuts the doory We have no vanity to display, 
 Avhen we add as a counterpoise for all this gammon, that 
 " curses like chickens often come home to roost." After cross- 
 ing over a wild-looking bridge beyond the mansion-house, we 
 reached one of the rockiest little round pebbled roads that 
 was ever seen, excepting on the stony border of one of those 
 little fords in a river, and this looked more like the cinders 
 which a cook throws out of the ashes of a fireplace into the 
 ash-barrel for the poor children to pick up on our streets, to 
 fill their hamper, alongside of their basket cold victuals — or if 
 the image of small round ballast-like stones in Roxbury, New 
 England, will better suit, to describe the nature of the nume- 
 
220 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 rous little rougli stones wliicli are scattered along the dry 
 beds of the forks of a creek from the relapse of a previous 
 spring freshet, when a giant has sprinkled over his bowl of 
 soup from his pepper-box, vulgarly called pudding, stones, you 
 may consider how difficult it was from their sharp edges for 
 the horse to strike his hoof against these rattling boulders. 
 After driving out of this range of ruts, with great care, so as 
 not to injure the horse's feet, we passed on by the side of 
 numerous snugly built farm-houses, which stood near the 
 road, and by the side of one elegant stone mansion ; peered 
 curiously at this which was occupied by a family of the high 
 Dutch descent, whose name was Ilollinbeck, wherein resided at 
 the time two certain excellent and cultivated females, concern- 
 ing whom, we were told the following anecdote : — Curiosity, 
 the bane of all women, and natural inheritance from old mother 
 Eve, which led us all into the first fatal act of disobedience, 
 from whose influence we men and women have suffered ever 
 since, induced them to imagine that a visit to the Black Heath 
 Mines would prove a very nice thing for two young ladies, 
 who were fully bent on a spree. So on one fair day, they took a 
 fancy to enter into one of the drifts, where a number of coalmen 
 were at work, driving their picks through the long narrow adits 
 of the walls of coal ; after they had gotten fairly in, had looked 
 all through and were about to return, these cunning workmen 
 saw fit to close the door upon them, and afterwards, when they 
 wanted to leave, they quietly insisted they should be paid for 
 the trouble which they had been put to by such an interrup- 
 tion of their day's work, and they stoutly demanded fifteen 
 dollars as baclc-shcesh, or hush-money ; like the Arabs of the 
 desert, they wanted their money. Now these fair damsels, who 
 were very Avealthy, and had probably become rich from these 
 very mines, soon found themselves in this scrape, that " Facilis 
 
FKOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 221 
 
 Averni descensus est, sed revocare gradum difficilior," — wliich 
 Latin we will explain to mean, "ladies, never sutler yourselves 
 to fall into a dumb waiter, or you will find it as hard to get 
 out as you do to walk up five j^air of stairs," which we will 
 literally translate by this truthful reading from the proverb, 
 " Tliat the rich are wise in their own conceits, but the poor man 
 that hath understanding searcheth them out; " so they discover- 
 ed it too late to their chagrin ; for these men caught these dear 
 little creatures in their own trap, and they were forced to hand 
 over their coin before they were let out of the snare. So they 
 sweetly condescended to yield their respective cash, because they 
 could not help it, and did open their portemonnaies and hand 
 over the amount required ; after which these nice little wander- 
 ing birds were gracefully escorted out of this cage and fled swiftly 
 into the air, happy to regain their freedom, having learned this 
 lesson by heart from this excursion, that an old Cornish miner 
 is as sly as a fox, and no silly geese should ever come round 
 their hole, lest they may lose part of their head-gear, or some 
 of their feathers. Fine people should not play too often with 
 sharp-edged tools, and keep away from the fire, or you may 
 burn your fingers, as we were once taught by experience, when 
 in our infancy we found out that a burnt child is apt to dread 
 the fire. We must confess that we rather enjoyed this joke, for 
 it helped to lighten the rest of our way on to the first ridges in 
 the lower valley, while we stopped at the Beech Creek Tavern. 
 While we were on the way up we passed an enormous scaffolding 
 of a range of white-pine plank-boards, that extended over several 
 acres of ground, which had been piled up in regular stacks all 
 along the path of the cross-road at the turn of which we drove by 
 the side of a running creek, near the race on the stream, where 
 Messrs. Buckley & Taylor had established a very large saw-mill ; 
 these were driving managers, and had built up a very profitable 
 
222 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APAKT. 
 
 business for many years past, at this part of tlie country, and we 
 sliould not liave had occasion to speak of them again had it not 
 been that shortly after we had ridden by the mill we caught 
 sight of a very nicely built residence, which had been erected 
 there, it seems, by a dishonest steward, who had been once 
 placed there, in trust of their property. Truly, it seems that 
 fraud is rampant everywhere, and that an honest servant is 
 almost as hard to find in Pennsylvania or elsewhere nowadays, as 
 it Avas in the times of Diogenes the Cynic, who was trying for 
 ever to seek for truth, by the light of his tallow candle. This 
 strange old bear of a philosopher was certainly a careful for no- 
 thing sort of man, for he once bearded the Conqueror Alexander 
 from his seat in the bottom of his tub, when by snubbing this 
 Caesar, who had very civilly asked him " if he could do him any 
 favor," he responded very curtly to the Emperor, like a 
 snapping-turtle, and snarled out only, "Just get out of my sun- 
 shine," thus reminding him of the wisdom of a wiser man, who 
 exclaimed : '' What shades we are, what shadows we pursue." 
 Veril}'-, this old Simon-pure was a trump in his way, for he 
 served as a warning to all kings, and potentates, and powers of 
 the earth. After we had passed beyond this house, our atten- 
 tion was called to rather a novel sight. Boards were so cheap 
 in this region of timber lands that we were surprised to see 
 great heaps of chips, that had been slivered from the boards, 
 after they had been split in parts by the cutting-knives at the 
 saw-mill, and were then cast into a great mass of rubbish and 
 shavings to make a bonfire. What blessings this waste of wood 
 would prove, if this heap of shavings could have been tunnelled 
 through an atmosphere railway, to the poor of New York, Avhose 
 faces after the boon of such a precious gift would have caused 
 them all to smile like a basket of chips, and would have thrown 
 them into a more gladsome state of delight than that which was 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 223 
 
 cxjDressed by one of two strangers wlioni we passed last week 
 on Broadway, on our way up-town with a friend, wliose face 
 was bursting out with a broad grin, because some fair lady had 
 been very sweet on him with a gay smirk of bright sunshine, 
 which he had just caught blooming through her blue veil. 
 And now, by throwing a shade of reflection over this scene of 
 destruction by the light of the flame of this large body of 
 kindling-wood, we Avill turn it into a profitable speculation for 
 some shrewd Yankee merchant, who may steal it from our 
 sketch-book ; but we will not ask him any fee in advance for 
 the secret, for it is a labor of love such as that of the sweet 
 Scottish lassie, Avhich has been spoken of in history, in her 
 address to the queen, when she was petitioning for the pardon 
 of her sister, Jennie Deans, for her Royal Highness was rather 
 surprised that she had journeyed so far from Scotland to ofler 
 her prayers : " I dinna ken, but it ha' awa' been good for me 
 to ask any favor for another, rather than myself." 
 
 Now, " To do good and communicate," forgetting not, " for 
 by so doing God is well pleased," we send forth the receipt 
 for the benefit of mankind, and all the people generally. Here 
 it is — for a recipe at whatever it may be worth, viz. : — Take all 
 the saw-dust that you can gather from a saw-mill by the bushel 
 and mix it up with a muddle of clay, so as to form a meddle, 
 and mingle the twain together with the culm which is cast 
 oflF from the coal screens, after it has been thoroughly washed 
 and cleaned, and the result will be a body of rich matter, which 
 will prove as great a source of revenue to the merchant as that 
 which is now derived from the great furor in the present specu- 
 lation in peat — and far more honest, because nigher to our own 
 doors — which is now inviting some of the capital of the country 
 to establish it as a suitable article of merchandise. This new 
 compound, which we might as well call " Stubbledee-Fal- 
 
224 BitiFT THOUGHTS — wide apart. 
 
 deralldee.," will make a cheap substance for fuel, and we 
 guar.intee it, although we hope we will not have to smart for it 
 if we should be called upon to act as surety on any other man's 
 bonds, that you will find as profitable as peat, which we have 
 burned when we were at school in a Franklin stove, under the 
 gentlemanly, because very strict discipline of old Simon Putnam 
 at the North Andover Academy in Massachusetts. In our 
 haste to write out this new recipe for fuel we have almost for- 
 gotten the case of the dishonest clerk who had robbed his 
 employer in a sum of about sixty thousand dollars, Avhile the mill 
 was under his charge as the book-keeper and superintendent, 
 who, having eaten the bread of his patrons, then tasted the 
 bitter-sweet of temptation under the serpent-bite of strange 
 women and wine, the worm of his sinning gnawed into his heart, 
 and he was led into the wiles of old Satan, who always baits his 
 hook with a pill of a shining coat and its lure of gold, and the 
 end of it was, this silly foolish man, who first tasted its pleasure, 
 was turned into the yawning grave of premature death, or into 
 a mouldering prison, for a long term of repentance. Therefore, 
 avoid the very beginning of evil, for it will spread like the rage 
 of the flaming fire, and will burn until the sorry ending of an 
 expiring candle, which has been lighted at both ends. 
 
 Our Mend took us thence on the way to the Inn, which was 
 painted in white, under its sign of the " Tlie Beech Creek 
 Tavern," while he settled with a tailor, for a suit of clothes 
 which he ordered, and after talking with some of the 
 neighbors, the landlord showed us a fine brace of partridges, 
 which he shot in the neighboring copses in the morning, 
 for the woods in that vicinity abound in game, where at times 
 in the winter season plenty of venison may be obtained from 
 the red deer, shot on the mountains adjoining the Tanga 
 Scotae mines. After a little travel through the woods, by 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 225 
 
 whose side a lively little creek was running througli a full 
 grove of beech trees, we rounded the corner of a by-road, 
 Avliere we found that one of the carpenters from the neighbor- 
 hood had built a snug little cottage for his family to reside in, 
 and passing by a sudden turn in the line of the snake-fence 
 Avhicli was running about his farm, passed on by the side of 
 another cottager's domicil, who looked out from his barn-yard 
 to salute us, eyeing us askant as we were driven along with 
 a second detour from the house where he stood, and he 
 continued to scan us intently until we had reached a cross- 
 road, at the first bend of which we urged our horse on to begin 
 our first ascent from the valley to the base of the Black Ileatli 
 Hills. Here we turned round to get a glimpse of the lower 
 valley, which was located between the ridges of the moun- 
 tains, and from a halt at the crown of the foremost range 
 we caught a view of the rich color of the sunset, as its last 
 rays were sinking over the long line of the intermediate 
 plains. This was tnily beautiful, and we watched its decline 
 until we lost its faint shadows, as they caught the outlines of 
 this cliflf". We were now approaching the last few miles of our 
 journey, and the hill now began to be so full of rocks that 
 we found it best to get out of the wagon, and while one of us 
 led the horse by the bridle, the other stepped out behind to 
 assist the anunal and keep the hind wheels from running back 
 down the mountain ; so steep and so sharp was the ascent that 
 we had to block the wheels in order to stay its fall. This 
 kept us very busy until we managed to reach the summit, and 
 then began the descent towards the mines of " Black Heath." 
 In about an hour before night-fall we arrived at the farm-house 
 and dwelling of the illustrious English John, who was the 
 Superintendent of these mines, and having viewed the long 
 range of the houses which had been erected for the use of the 
 
 10* 
 
226 
 
 DRIFT THOUGHTS AVIDE APART, 
 
 miners, and had ordered the horse placed in the stable, we 
 passed into the mansion, and were formally introduced to old 
 Mr. Reville, the capital Cornish miner, who was now here 
 in charge, for the administration of this company's interests, 
 and had removed his family into snug quarters under its roof. 
 
(iri)aptcr 24. 
 
 OLD UNCLE JOHN. 
 
 Now a word about this celebrated man, who was well suited 
 for his occupation. He had been born and bred on English 
 soil, had served an apprenticeship from his boyhood up, was 
 completely fitted up Avith all the apparatus for his Avork, for he 
 had shoved himself into the drift of Cornwall when he was so 
 small that he had to crawl on his knees into the lodes, to dig 
 out the mineral with his hands, and while holding the pick in 
 one hand he prospected his progress along the drifts by the 
 flames blazing out from the lighted tallow candle in the other 
 hand, Avhich was guided by a taper stuck in the front of his 
 cap. So famous was he that he had caught live toads and 
 pulled them, kicking, alive, out of the lodes, Avhich were sunken 
 a thousand feet beneath the surface of the sea (take a note of 
 this in Geology, ye disputants over the Neptune and Vulcanic 
 theory). He was, therefore, quite well adapted to follow all 
 the instincts of a grubber under the earth, and spryer than a 
 mole could poke his btirrow underneath the soil. No less 
 gifted in his trade as a miner, he became very patriotic during 
 the late Avar, and Avhen the Rebs in grey coats came into Pcnn- 
 
228 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 sylvaiiia, this old man shouldered his old flint-lock musket, and 
 went out at the head of his battalion of men, ready to combat 
 the enemy on the front of the battle-field. Also, when 
 serving as an engineer in the regions of coal he was no less able 
 to survey the property lines of this territory, and was also 
 engaged in building all the houses for the workmen, and 
 running the railway tracks through the forests which were 
 used by the company to carry the products of the mines down 
 to the tramway cars, which Avere to forward the loaded cars, 
 filled with bituminous coal, to the rolling steam cars, which 
 were to transport its freight of merchandise to the market 
 by the Pennsylvania and Catawissa or Reading Railroads. 
 Acting as Justice of the Peace he controlled the workmen, 
 and had the power conferred on him to arrest them when they 
 broke out in mutiny, and could hold them to bail, so as to 
 have them tried by the County Court of the Common Pleas at 
 Lockhaven. Nor was the old man very much chagrined when 
 he had at one election day, which had been in the Town 
 Hall, failed to get an appointment as one of the county officers, 
 in the Bureau of Supervisors, in spite of the slander of his 
 opponent, who threw into his teeth that he was a bloody alien 
 or an old English Johnny Bull. He was too much of a 
 philosopher to lose his temper, and settled down his pride by 
 the reflection that after all, " the post of honor was at best the 
 private station," and he could do his duty just as well in his 
 capacity as a proper Cornish miner, or by a meek soothing 
 plaster of solace, such as this, — 
 
 " Ne sutor ultra crepidam," 
 
 " Cobbler stick to your last," and he forbore any further 
 remark to his enemy who was so prejudiced, as to have any 
 respect to persons but not to principles, or by quoting another 
 
FKOM THE SEA TO TOE SUMMITS. 229 
 
 Latin proverb, of one poet Horace, of Soracte, in which he 
 declaimed as follows : — 
 
 " Tte CapeUe I" 
 
 " Go it, ye cripples !" for his comfort and consolation. You 
 may be sure that we were very glad to sit down before his 
 yule-log fire. It was an ancient fire-place, like one of those 
 old-fashioned New England ones which was built in the 
 honest days of yore, when you could draw your wood from the 
 forest ; when the Avoodman's axe sounded ringingly through 
 the trees, and the uplifted shaft, under well-thrown blows, lent 
 strength and health to the wood-cutter ; from whence 
 "digestion waited on appetite, and health on both," for there 
 was no dyspepsia known then ; when the rose blushed on the 
 cheeks of the maidens. Here was his wife and faithful 
 honsekeepcr, meek fellow-helper, and the old grey Maltese 
 cat sitting alongside of the fire-place, an old huge pair of 
 bellows, and the faithful watch-dog sitting beside grimalkin, 
 who did not worry the pussy ; the blue china teapot and queer 
 little old-fashioned tea-cups and saucers, with fine English 
 breakfast black tea on the tea-table, and nice quince preserves ; 
 cheese and home-made bread and butter, and uncommon 
 looking forks and common knives, with wholesome food in 
 plenty ; and a good cheer, a hearty welcome, and a full glass 
 of elderberry Avine; then there were pigeons cooing on the 
 roof, and the old tom-cat purring, and the grand big hickory 
 back-log in the fire-place, and bright brass andirons shining 
 to reflect the flickering fire-light, while the sparks flew up the 
 chimney, and the procession from the exploding hickory 
 embers snapped out on the carpet and behind the big tun of 
 elderberry wine, which was bubbling under its heat, blowing 
 up the cover anon with a Avheezing like a porpoise, and pufling 
 
230 DHIFT THOUGHTS AVIDE APART. 
 
 out its steam like a Mississippi steamboat mider high pressure, 
 and occasionally lifting off the top board from the tub and 
 swelling in rage, fumingly and boisterously, while the process 
 of fermentation was going on to ripen the product within 
 the barrel to perfection. Such a picture reminded us 
 of our boyhood's days, when we roved singing through the 
 woodlands of the North, and picked up the huckleberries 
 on the hills; for we felt at home because of the heartfelt 
 cordiality of old honest Uncle John, who was but a laborer 
 in this vineyard, and from him we might all be taught 
 many a sound lesson of earnest life and the blessing of toil- 
 rewarding humble duty, to many a prouder man than his 
 station and work would warrant as miner, or from his wife, 
 who was a pattern of domestic sobriety and meek submission 
 ill woman, all which moral is better described in the following 
 verses by a friend :— 
 
 ON AN OLD RAG-PICKER. 
 
 ET ASTARTE. 
 
 There is a silent forceful law 
 Ever busy by night and day, 
 Taking the waste, the left, the scorned, 
 Off to its unseen home away 
 
 Under the ground, in soUd darkness, 
 Where the life roots grow and swell, 
 Where its many servants waiting. 
 Do their wonderful works so welL 
 
 For this law has servants many, 
 Some are swift, and some are slow; 
 Some work in fetters, some on wings, 
 In that eternal round they go 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 231 
 
 "Wonderful forces I never a sound, 
 Never to weary or rest, or fail 
 Nursing eternally new creations 
 Under the never lifted veil. 
 
 Nothing is lost, we seem to hear. 
 Nothing is lost on land or sea ; 
 Nothing is small, or great, or far, 
 Or useless all is alike to me. 
 
 It is a law that works unheeded, 
 AVhat caro we, who wasteful go, 
 'Mid those harmonious, sleepless forces, 
 Keeping our Ufo in such pleasant flow. 
 
 Gather the fragment, that nothing he lost. 
 And nature holds this law so dear. 
 That takes the shatters of all the world, 
 And makes the world anew each year. 
 
 And now old lady with frowsy hair, 
 Digging away in the dirt and straw, 
 I know far off in your careless prime, 
 Tou never heeded this fruitful law. 
 
 And now in the lowest years you come, 
 To feel this law, and hunt what's lost ; 
 "Well ! many mortals are hke persimmons, 
 Good for nothing— tul touched by frost. 
 
 You never will find the years you have lost. 
 The ways and means of a younger day : 
 The moral law brings never to man, 
 Fruit for the seed he had thrown away. 
 
 I think as I see you standing there. 
 In garments thin on this keen cold day. 
 What great lay preachers the world sends out, 
 If we would but listen to what they say. 
 
232 DIUFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APAKT. 
 
 Shortly after tea, we took our pipes and smoked away, after 
 sitting down in his parlor, with a game of whist, to while 
 away the hours until bed-time ; and " Uncle Johnny," as he 
 was so termed by the people at home, seeing that we were a 
 poor hand at this game, having rather a silent partner in the 
 dummy, which was supposed to hold the missing hand, we 
 now concluded that the next best thing to be done, was to 
 send us to bed. Shortly after Mrs. R , his amiable house- 
 keeper, procured a tallow candle, and had it quickly lighted 
 after we had left our boots outside the room to be brushed, — 
 
 slippers were duly provided by my companion Mr. T , who 
 
 then led the way up to a comfortable high-post bedstead, 
 which had been spread with a sufficient number of blankets, 
 and quite a number of coverlets and bolsters were added to 
 furnish up this guest-chamber, which had been prepared with 
 all the modern conveniences of a well-appointed room ; we 
 secured the lock and bolted the door before retiring to rest. 
 We then deliberately seated ourselves on the sofa, made our 
 evening salaams to an overruling providence, who had watched 
 over and protected us during the past day, and then jumped 
 bravely into bed, after throwing aside the white dimity cur- 
 tains, which had been shutting out the stars from our sight, 
 and fell asleep as soundly as if we had been lodged under the 
 most gorgeous upholstered pavilion hangings in the bed-cham- 
 ber of any royal palace. And on the following day, although 
 it was rather misty, we were guided by this fine old Cornish- 
 man to view all the openings that had been shored up at their 
 entrance with strong chestnut posts for the proper handling 
 and quarrying out of the lodes of bituminous coal which had 
 been started at this establishment, concerning which and all 
 the queer workings of this product in general, it is Avell to shut 
 our mouths at this time ; but leave it for a further notice and 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 233 
 
 comment until after we have inspected the first, now aban- 
 doned and neglected lode, where the mine had been closed up, 
 the product loosely scattered, thrown aside and cast out as 
 useless, to rust with mildew, where we observed, lie at waste, 
 a body of coal which amounted to about four thousand tons in 
 weight, from having been exposed a long time to the inclem- 
 ency of the weather all the past winters, and left to feel the 
 influence of the heavy rains and snows during the last year. 
 Such a wanton and Avilful neglect in not housing the whole of 
 this excellent material was shameful in the extreme, and wo 
 are bold enough to proclaim it criminal, from the very first 
 day of the inception of an undertaking Avhich any honest and 
 fair representation to the stockholders who had subscribed to 
 its stock, would have prevented if this property had been pro- 
 perly handled; and it was fraudulent, because the projectors 
 who started this miserable scheme, must have either omitted 
 or neglected to make a clearer statement of all the facts with a 
 presentment of those prudential and cautionary movements, 
 due care and jealous watchfulness before investing your means 
 in any enterprise of this kind ; for they must have forgotten 
 that every such scheme which has a motive to cheat the pub- 
 lic out of their money, by a lure of false gain, baited with 
 avarice, and glossed over in the gilt of covetousness, must have 
 convinced them according to their own consciences, if at all 
 consulted, that their programmes Avere wanting in a real and 
 startling declaration of the truth, " the whole truth, and nothing 
 but the truth. " So much by way of introduction, and we 
 passed on in the rain which was then falling in heavy sheets 
 of water, so as to make us feel the need of an umbrella, to say 
 only at this point, that we looked into the gate-way of the old 
 pit-hole, and saw nothing in it but solid darkness, and a 
 dangersome look of deceit and trickery after stepping down 
 
234 . DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 by the side of a broken trap- door, through Avhose sides the 
 coal had at one time been let down with a fall into the cars 
 which were lying in Avait by the side of a tramway to receive 
 the coal. We passed through the mud, and over the loose 
 stones, to get to the new establishment which had been started 
 by the company, who probably thought, that as every new 
 broom sweeps clean, by this novel process of reconstruction, 
 they might sweep away all the cobwebs which had been spun 
 by the spider Aveavcrs over the old doors of the broken 
 down hollow cavern in order to throw dust in the eyes of 
 the stockholders, and furnish fresh sand for the eyes of the 
 directors, to brighten up the Scotch glass pebbles, which eye" 
 glasses were to perform the duty of some new pairs of spec- 
 tacles, whilst behind a thick dark veil the poor deluded people, 
 the suburbers, were to bow down to a delusion and believe 
 their lies. 
 
 Uncle Johnny, the moving spirit about this locality, carried 
 us to the gangway, which had recently been sprung over the 
 abyss on parapathetic parallels of lumber, and the gulfs of 
 mud and low marshes lying beneath them. He had done his 
 duty faithfully ; the whole fabric of this beautifully built 
 railroad had a frame of trestle-work over the whole fabric 
 of the railway Avhich had been solely made under his superin- 
 tendence, from the planning out of its irregular track to the 
 cutting down of some noble forest trees, in order to furnish 
 the heavy sleepers of timber, the stakes of which had been 
 hewn into proper shape by his axe, and as we walked along 
 the tramway, which had been fastened with iron cradles to 
 hold them with their strong grip and fastenings down to the 
 wood-work, through an extent of over two miles. While 
 looking over the ravine our eyes became very dizzy, and we 
 were compelled to be led along, very cautiously, by taking 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 235 
 
 hold of his strong arm, so as to prevent our falling into 
 the slough beneath us, for we were rather a new hand at the 
 bellows, and, like a green sailor, at our first attempt in 
 climbing this new kind of rigging became rather giddy, and 
 rather wistfully wanted to go back. However, this man's help 
 was of great service, and we gained heart and took courage, 
 after getting further on at the head of the road, where the 
 course had reached the level of the common dirt road, which 
 was the end of this route ; there we saw the spot where a new 
 pit-hole had been dug out on the hillside at the croppings out 
 of a new strata of bituminous coal. Just as we were about 
 to enter the drift we came across two persons who were out 
 shooting for want of something better to do ; as all the works 
 Avere suspended, for all their resources by which to carry them 
 on had failed. These hunters had stopped at this mine and 
 were after wild pigeons and squirrels in the rain. There wc 
 rested awhile after hailing them, to enjoy a little talk about 
 miners and mining-men in general. We all sat down together 
 on a platform of boards, waiting for one of the party to light 
 a candle, before Ave could be enabled to enter the gangway 
 from the front to the interior of the drifts, in order to examine 
 its bearings. There is, as you all know, a sort of portcullis or 
 antechamber which frames the door of a coal-pit, Avhence the 
 coal of the mine can easily be discovered coming out at the 
 foot of the mountain, and where a neat wooden shed is built 
 up, on each side of which, a plain board seat is erected as a 
 rest for the workmen and visitors, before going in, or after they 
 have come out. Here Ave sat awhile until the water had been 
 inspected, and a small barrow-car had been properly placed, 
 the light struck and ourselves seated in one of the wagons, 
 Avhile we were pulled along by the aid of our book-keeper, and 
 guided by our conductor into the interior so as to inspect the 
 
236 DEIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 walls of the drifts, we were pushed along over the water, ani 
 into the solid depths of the inner lodes, until we had reached 
 a distance from the entrance of about one hundred and fifty 
 feet, and were careful to open the different gates which had been 
 constructed at the intersection of the various bends in the 
 strata. Here we were delighted to find a fine body of mineral 
 running through the veins to an extent of four or five feet in 
 length, and pleased to look into the well-holes, which were 
 sunken from the surface, in order to introduce fresh air into the 
 mine, and a little light, for the comfort and safety of the miners. 
 We found everything about here in capital — or as it is called 
 apple-pie order, and so in respect to the surface bearing, quan- 
 tity of product, wonderfully well suggested, and devised, the 
 chambers and gateways all neatly and strongly constructed 
 with good box-works, together with proper chimneys from the 
 top to the bottom of the pit, a long flume of air-holes or wind- 
 sails, with proper doors and escapes all well boarded and 
 admirably adapted for the safety and security of the miners. 
 But with all these things at hand, there Avas the hollow skeleton 
 staring you all the time in the face ; the fact was as stubborn 
 a one as that which we observed on one bright afternoon near 
 the Bloomingdale Eoad, that struck forcibly from that picture 
 as we looked at it from the Eighth Avenue car, wherein a soli- 
 tary jackass stood in bas-relief against a blue sky. We could 
 not help feeling that there was a great blunder somewhere; the 
 truth will out; there was no money in it, none could be gotten 
 out of it, for the Pewee-Road would not carry their product to 
 market; the Company's men Avere at a stand-still, there was a 
 flaw in the iron and a dead-lock in the contract. They had for- 
 gotten to get into favor Avith the grand enterprises which had 
 been started years before this, and were paying handsome divi- 
 dends to the stockholders, Avhile this unfortunate concern had 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 2o7 
 
 not capital enough to slioulder tlieir wagons tlirougli to tlie 
 markets and cities' depot for the sale of their coal ; because the 
 inammoth Anacondas had swung their lines all across thcii 
 tracts, which block obstacle they seemed to have forgotten, or 
 lost sight of, like a vision that vanishes in a dream, and there 
 were others who had carriages to help them along, and there 
 were shrewd neighbors who had travelled over the ground with 
 greater success, and had derived large profits from their imder- 
 taking; who had rolling cars and locomotives, railways, canals, 
 and abundant rolling stock, and were always on hand, and on 
 the sharp look-out for profligates and spendthrifts, and ready to 
 swallow up these sleeve-gammon, sly-sanctimonious, picayune, 
 amiable, adventurous, but indiscreet and sickly puling young 
 subjects and gay deceivers, who were good only in the pocket- 
 book game, and could play the little poker in the patent-safe 
 trick to perfection. 
 
 What a pity that these did not look out for the breakers 
 ahead, before they had started their poor and disreputable 
 swine-dealing schemes. The " Tanga Scotac," or tangled 
 skein, had run its dark, worrying and blustering Lethe waters 
 with its ominous forebodings, to warn them off the rocks and 
 shallows ; the lighthouse had sent its glares of bright lantern 
 and luminously shining forth with a lurid glow over the seas, 
 where sunken wrecks were pointing to the ominous naked 
 masts to show them, that there were breakers ahead, and roar- 
 ing aloud, wild winds, and tempest raging and bellowing with 
 fearful shrieks about bankrupt barks and stricken ships ; but in 
 spite of all " these " beautiful " castles in the air," their magnifi- 
 cent illustrated programmes breathed of sulphur and bitumin- 
 ous vapors. They had well-planned schemes and solemn con- 
 tracts, but they had forgotten that men had families to support ; 
 that wives and children had hungry mouths to fill, or that, 
 
238 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 " The best laid schemes of mice aud men, 
 Gang aft agley." 
 
 We have nearly finished and Avill soon be out, and returning 
 through the rain. It proved rather a sad morning to us ; in 
 fact, it had made us quite melancholy, as -vve passed away ; it 
 perplexed our brain as we thought for the thoughtless, who 
 had not considered the distress they had 03casioned by such 
 a blundering mismanag-ement. Now all such men as these 
 surely come to grief. But, we could not but pity the misfor- 
 tune of the poor lonely widow who had been cast here with 
 her disappointed family in this wilderness of Pennsylvania ; of 
 the deserted school-house, Avhere children might have been 
 taught to read ; of the abandoned property, of the broken for- 
 tunes, and the embittered hearts of the managers, who had 
 been taken from his fireside and cheerful hearth, to be a soli- 
 taiy isolated exile on these islands of roofless barrenness. 
 
 Now as far as the shrewd old miner is concerned, the guar- 
 dian of this broken-down enterprise, we have only small boon 
 of compassion. He had begun life from the beginning, with 
 Lis hand and fingers ; aud with an humble trust in providence, 
 who had not forgotten this honest John Bull, he understood 
 his business, has been economical and laid up enough for a wet 
 day. Any better designed establishment would soon employ 
 him ; he could go back to the " Tanga Scotac," and it would 
 not betray him Avho had bowed his head to its waters and 
 bathed his face in its rippling stream, and it would be all the 
 clearer from the bath ; but of the other there is nothing fur- 
 ther to be said, and there never was anything but presumption 
 in those deep plannings. There was an augury of dark design 
 in its very name ; there were deeds of darkness brooding and 
 foreboding of dark omens through its neighboring groves, there 
 was recklessness in the daring of its wild and straggling adven- 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 239 
 
 turers. Theirs was a robbing, thieving, disastrous feat, and 
 stupid when desperate, it became a dangerous speculation. 
 Solid dark from the very Latin root of Sjiccus^ from which it 
 was founded ; it became black in the end, and looking into 
 darkness, but not "looking before you leap," has broken 
 many a head before these buyers — short capitalists, and emp- 
 tied heavier and longer purses, than any that were ever squan- 
 dered in any coal field, such as that which is locked up iu that 
 deserted haven, which is nigh the far-off wilderness in the Key- 
 stone State, and not fer from the Black Heath Mountain. It 
 became us to move solitary and alone from this melancholy 
 fragment of this life's history of failure ; and after having has- 
 tily dined, the same horse and buggy bore us away by the 
 same route by which we had ascended. We had not stopped 
 until we had reached the starting stable of our friend's man- 
 sion, which was located on the hiU-side, just back of Lock- 
 haven, and giving the team into the hands of the negro ser- 
 vants, dropped uito the house, where we remained until after 
 tea. 
 
 We were delighted to play with the children, to sit on the 
 front stoop, to view the beautiful lines of these innocent faces, 
 to wander thence to the last lingering flushes of the soft roseate 
 sun-beams, which were casting their last rays over the western 
 hills, flickering with varied light, shadowing over the reclining 
 hills, and touching the valleys with gay pictures of beauty, 
 until it passed away for the night and sank in the bright wil- 
 derness of its glory. A refreshing and holy meal, which was 
 then partaken, left its softening impress on our rested limbs, 
 and as we sat watching and waiting, the memory of another 
 sweet face was imaged forth, as we were reminded of these 
 choice lines of Ruskin, for our hostess was as he has described 
 the good woman and gracious lady of whom it might be c^id, 
 
240 DKIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 " With whom each sovereign good dwells separate, 
 Fulfilling the perfection of thy state." 
 
 Thus ever dreaming of tlie past, we turn for our satisfaction 
 to a picture of more genial bearing, where we are reminded of 
 another charming character who is quoted by the same artist, 
 in word-painting in the following lines : 
 
 " Lady, since I conceived 
 Thy pleasurable aspect in my heart, 
 
 My life has been apart 
 In shining brightness and the place of truth ; 
 
 "Which till that time good sooth, 
 Groped among shadows in a darken'd place, 
 
 "Where many hours and days, 
 It hardly ever had remembered good, 
 
 But now my servitude 
 Is thine, and I am full of joy and rest; 
 
 A man from a wild beast 
 Thou madest me, since for thy love I lived." 
 
 How eminently suited are these words, which Dante Rossete 
 has gathered from an Italian poet to the feelings of a man, who 
 having faithfully served and honored the friend of his bosom, 
 should reap but a burthen of that strong sorrow of heart for 
 his reward, after suffering from a violent usurpation of his 
 privilege, through the cruel instrumentality of a dual con- 
 spiracy, which was ever well kept, when once plighted and 
 pledged, but broken asunder by a major force, where pride, 
 poverty, and ambition linked themselves under the cloak of 
 Satan to disrupt what God had never designed should be sun- 
 dered. When solitude rules the heart and the sacred affec- 
 tionate pledge of a strong man, how mighty are the thoughts 
 that burn as incense through his passions, and the broken and 
 
FKOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 241 
 
 contrite heart yielding in humble submission to the will of a 
 stern providence, is the only solace and consolation afforded 
 him, whose suflBciency is alone from God. 
 
 When, on the following morning, our friends had started on 
 their way homeward, it was necessary to pass over the same 
 places which had been seen on a previous occasion, and there 
 was nothing to lighten the burthen of their journey, but one or 
 two chance observations about the neighbors in the cars in Avhich 
 they had been seated. Just before us were two opposite char- 
 acters to be observed, strictly from the strong contrast betAveen 
 these two persons. One, an old, hardened sinner, who was 
 watched from our seat, polluted the air by his lewd conversation, 
 and tobacco-stained breath ; he was, as he himself admitted from 
 his talk, a procurer, or pimp, and his whole aspect bore a fea- 
 ture of unpleasantness, which disgusted us, as we were obliged 
 to be near him. It was no wonder that evil associations should 
 have corrupted his morals, as well as his manners, when we 
 heard of the low state of virtue which was prevalent in the 
 town which he left; and, we are sorry to add, that arose 
 mainly from foreign importations of imported irregularities into 
 the mining districts of Pennsylvania. The other portrait was 
 that of a clever and bright youth, who was looking at the 
 scenery while we were passing along, who exposed the char- 
 acter of this indecent neighbor, and it was in him we took 
 refuge to shield ourselves from the bad influences of the former 
 unfortunate man, who had fallen into the snares of the devil. 
 After which contrast of light and shade, so markedly exhibited 
 in the faces of these two individuals, the only incident that 
 occurred to relieve the monotony of the journey was a little di- 
 version of distress, which claimed our attention from a forlorn 
 old lady, dressed with a frock, and plain, hiding her sharp face 
 under the frame of a Shaker bonnet. The scene which took 
 
 11 
 
242 DUIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 place, 'wherem tliis woman performed a solo part, is liard to be 
 narrated — in fact, it beggared description. Soon after she had 
 entered the car, at tlie Milford station, she was bound to pop 
 out of her seat, and Avonld have been thrown on the track had 
 we not seized hold of her by main force, and loudly bawled out 
 to her to sit still. It seems that while getting into this car at 
 this depot, with her encumbrances of pocket-handkerchief, rail- 
 road ticket, and small hand-bag, she suddenly discovered her- 
 self to be without a check for her passage ; and now came a 
 cry and nervous shriek from her deep emotion, under her 
 present state of embarrassment, " I have lost my handkerchief, 
 with the ticket in it ! What shall I do without my pass ? " 
 Now, what a muss and a fuss she did make about it; such a 
 rattling of her teeth, and outpouring of her tongue, of sharp 
 words, and cries of painful sound fell from her lips, that it was 
 as if a chicken had been dancing on a hot plate. " I have got 
 it from my cousin, George Wells; he that keeps the station- 
 house." We continued our shout, " Be quiet ; keep still ; 
 don't move ; if you jump out you'll be killed." " Bnt my 
 pocket-handkerchief," she yelled, " with the ticket in it. I 
 don't care for the handkerchief, but the ticket, with the pass in 
 it." And that and the same cries were repeated about a dozen 
 times, until, finally, she sat down in peace. Then the conduc- 
 tor was called. The gist of her matters was easily arranged 
 between the telegraph, the ticket master, and the keeper of 
 the depot. But she did not get over her fright and fidget un- 
 til we had reached Danville, where she found it all righted, and 
 the pass was checked through by special order. AA^e never 
 saw such an agitated old lady before ; so hard to be persuaded ; 
 so determined to get killed in her haste to jump off. We left 
 her at Danville, and the passengers all told us, " Your order 
 for her to sit down peremptorily was the saving of hei 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 243 
 
 Jife." Our advice, tlierefore, to all ladies, whenever tliey get 
 into a scrape, is, don't move whenever you are only a little 
 scared, for the easiest way is always the best for you — which 
 is to keep your seat — be still as a mouse. We know it is very 
 hard for you to hold your little tongues. But in a row always 
 kee2J quiet, and recollect the Italian ^;rover5, which has saved 
 us many a time, " Quieta, non movere '' — ^^ Keep quiet; donH 
 moveP 
 
 When we were about to start from Danville to get on to 
 Catawissa road, a beautiful bride got into the front seat, and 
 delighted our eyes with such a sweet prospect of beauty that 
 we forgot to look much at the scenery ; and, furthermore, one 
 of the most elegant women that could be produced in anv 
 part of America very grandly sailed into the vacant scat just 
 after we had left the bridal party at the next station, near 
 Rupert's. This sudden apparition so entirely engaged our at- 
 tention, and the eyes of all the other occupants of the car, that 
 nothing could be very carefully considered along the way, until 
 we had left her at the point of the summit of this line of rail- 
 road. We were led to believe, from looking carefully at this 
 specimen of the human formation in Pennsylvania, that the 
 works of Nature were eclipsed by the products of humanity, 
 and we have no doubt that this State was called the " Key- 
 stone " from the fact that all the women are as good as this 
 sample in the one who sat before us all the way, until there 
 was a change of cars at the junction of the Lehigh road, where 
 we parted from her ; and Ave turned our attention to the lines 
 of the construction of the Catawissa and Reading road, and at 
 McCauley's station, which was the third station to claim any 
 special notice, having already passed over two extended lines 
 of trestle framework over the valley, which had been thus 
 bridged by a perfect and graceful span of iron braces. We 
 
244 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 were forced by the fine prospects seen beyond tbe Limerick 
 valley to view the grand sweep of landscape, which was rang- 
 ing from hill to hi!l, to embrace a circuit of miles from ont 
 views from out the windows of the car. 
 
 We had passed Number Four, when we were all attracted 
 by the peculiar lines of the Sugar-Loaf Mountains ; and at Free- 
 man's the sweep-back from White's Station brought before us 
 the form of a well-built bridge, which was raised at an eleva- 
 tion of one hundred and fifty feet over the ravine. There 
 were others extending as high as two hundred feet at Number 
 Five, which was the highest and the last which was obsen'cd 
 by us. We reached the " Summit," by the side of which was 
 the bare face of huge Limestone Rock, a way-station which 
 stood opposite a small baggage car-house, and a refreshment 
 room, at which point we awaited the arrival of the Lehigh Val- 
 ley train, that was to take us on our way to the Mauch 
 Chunk that afternoon. It was at Port Chillen where we were 
 left off from the Catavvissa train which was on its way down 
 to Reading. At that point of the road we learned how a poor 
 man was thrown off the rear of the car as it was passing on 
 to New York. Here Ave remained while he was stating his 
 grievances to us, for he was still smarting under the injury 
 he had received from this interruption in his journey, and 
 Avhich occurred all through a mistake which was certainly the 
 fault of the Company's Transfer Ticket Agent at Williams- 
 port. He grew very boisterous at length, as such people 
 especially do where there is no redress to be had on the spot, 
 and commenced asking for a Justice of the Peace to sue out a 
 writ of damage for the detention at this intermediate spot, 
 away off from his family ; he wanted them mulcted in a fine 
 or penalty for their negligence in not granting him a proper 
 ticket throuffh to his home that nio^ht in New York. It was. 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUJIMITS. 245 
 
 ■we must confess, rather a hard case, and we sympathized with him 
 in his misfortune, but that would do him very little good or avail 
 him naught as a remedy for his bruises ; and there was no court 
 in the vicinity nearer than the Supreme Court of some city, and 
 what could a simple, honest Dutch Justice do for him in this vi- 
 cinity of the accident, to say nothing of the lack of jurisdiction ? 
 
 However, finding that all my attempts to soothe him were 
 useless, and leaving him to cool off, he soon came to his sen- 
 ses, and after a while was so calmed down in an hour of mature 
 reflection that he thanked us for our counsel, but not a cent of 
 a fee did he proffer us for the advice we had given him. 
 
 We did our duty nevertheless, and received our pay in that 
 unusual piece of civility that was displayed to us by the con- 
 ductor of the Lehigh Valley Railroad when it took us up from 
 this depot at the " Summit " and carried us up through the 
 stretch of the Lehigh Valley and back. Thus we were enabled 
 (free of cost or expense) to travel this distance, for he consid- 
 ered us strangers, and took a notion to favor us because we 
 were not speculators nor prying dealers in coal projects. So, 
 in this mode, we obtained a better view of all the Company's 
 works which had been established at Delano, and further on to 
 McElroy City, Mount Etna, and over the entire range of the 
 beautiful valley of the bright, sparkling Lehigh. After our 
 return to the Junction, we continued in the same car, and 
 moved on towards Mauch Chunk. We shall never forget the 
 pleasure we enjoyed in that day's ride along the banks of the 
 Lehigh River, where we could trace the stream from the small 
 trickling rills and brooks over the rocks, and the little babbling 
 waterfalls and cascades, until it rushed out in a fuller body and 
 yiith. more rapid and furious forces under the dark lines of the 
 gloomy hills and mountain walls at Mauch Chunk, where wo 
 halted to remain over Sunday. 
 
24G DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 MAUCH CHUNK. 
 
 The borough of Mauch Chunk, from its romantic location^ 
 pure mountain air, accessible from every point, presents rare 
 attractions to pleasure-seekers and summer sojourners. It was 
 the cradle of the coal business of the United States, and is 
 now the centre of the great Anthracite coal trade of the Lehigh 
 region ; hemmed in on every side by abrupt mountains, be- 
 tween which glides the Lehigh with its beautiful bright waters, 
 it presents scenes the most picturesque and grand for the pen- 
 cil of the sketcher, or the inchoate inception of views for the 
 painter to finish up in his landscapes upon the easel in his 
 studio. Such was the vivid and glowing introduction to one 
 of the darkest, gloomiest, and dampest of prospecting deposi- 
 tories for coal in this country. Truth is no doubt stranger 
 than fiction ; and casting aside all cloak of invention, without 
 drawing too strongly on our imagination for the facts, v/e will 
 barely state what were our first impressions when we entered 
 the stone mansion of the United States Hotel. When the 
 granite was first projected among the primaries of creation, 
 where its blocks of greystonc were intermixed Avith horn- 
 blende and gneiss, and whacks of white spotted its body like 
 bloated lumps, or blotches on an old toad's back, and the 
 white, brilliant crystals in the quartz rock impregnated its 
 bases to the very centre of its core, and its heart of stone 
 glistened with bright filaments of gold, it had a noble form in 
 which it was placed to furnish this earth and strengthen its 
 mighty foundations within the strong magnetism of a galvanic 
 battery ; but when built up in the shape of a Publican's tavern 
 lodged as in a stone hedge, and seated in the corner of an 
 elbow between two mountains, where a rapid river is dashing 
 its waters furiously along in its way to the ocean, as if it were 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 24"/ 
 
 a mettled liorse, foaming and chafing at the bit, to break away 
 from the hold of a fearless rider, ready to throw him if he 
 could. So may we compare the position of this man's hospi- 
 tal, which might be termed an Inn, indeed, but never an out; 
 for with its moist and uncomfortable body, well sprinkled by 
 the mountain mists which are continually falling over it with 
 heavy showers on the roof, like the trickling drops from a 
 vapor bath, you might find it very contributive to settle the 
 fate of a consumptive patient, and that in spite of all the 
 victuals which might have been provided by the landlord to 
 keep life in the body. Here was a corner deeper than any 
 which was ever established on Wall street ; where the sun- 
 light, according to the testimony of one of the inhabitants, only 
 visits the town a small fraction of the day, and whose aspect 
 was so gloomy that it caused a chill as we viewed it from the 
 upper window of the hotel ; and that state of shiver soon 
 turned to a fever and ague as hot as our chagrin, and alterna- 
 ted with a chever-de-freeze in our dumb outrage, that we had 
 been obliged to stop short of Bethlehem, and what was worse 
 again, that we had been prevailed upon, (from what it turned 
 out) to land at any such place. At about five p.m., without hav- 
 ing eaten anything since breakfast — all arising from our not 
 having provided even a Boston hard cracker — for there was 
 not a crumb to be found there to appease your hunger ; and, 
 in the meanwhile, when Ave had landed, to be told that not 
 even a beef-steak could be cooked at that hour for the late pas- 
 sengers who had arrived there to wait over Sunday ; and then 
 to look into the dining-room and see some of this fellow's cro- 
 nies — who also had his 7-ings or nice bosom friends — eating a 
 hearty meal which had been provided for the particular favor- 
 ites of this caterer, Avas, to say the least, only adding insult to 
 injury. Tlie result was, that Ave did at last obtain something 
 
248 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 to eat, and as a special favor wore permitted to enter the circle 
 and assist consuming a portion of the remainder in the tail of a 
 repast, ■which was flavored Avith a water-melon, melting, while 
 our eyes were almost fired with indignation or filled with tears 
 of pity for this sinner who had nearly forgotten the very first 
 lesson in the law of hospitality, a law which is respected even 
 among the savages and Arabs, and had in this instanc'e fairly 
 convinced us that he was hardly the proper man to keep an 
 hotel ; except, perchance, in one of those regions of benighted 
 shadows, where the poor man will rest in the bosom of Abra- 
 ham, while the rich man will long after the crumbs which he 
 once was glad to throw to his dogs; but where the meek 
 alone shall inherit the earth, and the smile of the Lord will be 
 the liffht of their souls. 
 
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 1 
 
 €l)apter 25, 
 
 A SWITCH BACK AND HOME. 
 
 " The best laid schemes o' mice and men 
 Gang aft aglej'."' — Jioht. Burns. 
 
 What a sad mistake wc had made by settling ourselves down 
 nto this dark corner, which was a sort of hole in the wall, for 
 we had not a moment of real comfort during the entire period 
 of our stay at that chunk of a village. After a pleasant dinner, 
 we stepped across the street to walk over the lines of a beauti- 
 ful suspension bridge, which was visible form the front stoop of 
 the hotel ; and, while standing on its plankways, admired its 
 strong frame of iron network, while it hung over in bending 
 grace across the Lehigh's rapid current, and, looking from 
 thence over the railroads, obtained a perfect view of the loca- 
 tion of the town, which was so snugly lodged in the shadows 
 of a deep mountain dell in this valley. From the stand-point 
 of our gaze we suiTeyed the whole extent of the borough, with 
 all the buildings of the city, and were delighted to observe that 
 the most prominent edifice in the sight was the plain form of 
 the Episcopal church, which conspicuously displayed its bright 
 ftigade above all other points in this village. It lifted its squarc- 
 turreted head, pointing up towards the sky, with its raised 
 yellow limestone structure peering out from a high brick plat- 
 form of wall, which had been built on top of a wide stone para- 
 
 11* 
 
250 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART, 
 
 pet which stretched its length along underneath the sharp ledges 
 of one of the rocty cliffs that overshadowed its architecture. 
 From thence it seemed to lighten up all the gloomy aspect of 
 the scenery, and loomed so cheerfully up to gladden oui 
 sight, as if the light of this candlestick had been truly set on a 
 hill, and not hidden under such a bushel as the dark aspect of 
 the town, resting beneath its heavy shadows, foreboded. From 
 this stern contrast of light and shade, which recalled suddenly 
 to our memory another striking picture of a grand chiaroscuro, 
 similar in its effects to one of those remarkable paintings by 
 Salvator Rosa, depicted from a land scene near a wild moun- 
 tain pass, which one enjoys in Spain, near Toledo, and can be 
 best sketched from the convent of the monks, behind the cathe- 
 dral, from Avhence, if you will place your easel by the side of 
 the old Moorish temple, which is not far off, you can overlook 
 the bold, dashing, and rapid river, which is leaping and rushing 
 so furiously along after it has burst through the narrow gorges 
 of the mountain's walls, breaking its forces on swift currents, 
 scattering its dark waters with foaming fury, as if it were fret- 
 ting and chafing at its bonds which trouble its fall over the 
 precipices, and Avanders recklessly on through the crevices of 
 a dark ravine. 
 
 That sight from the suspension bridge which was thrown over 
 the Lehigh river was the most attractive feature in the whole 
 landscape, so that the entire depth of the valley was commanded 
 at a glimpse. 
 
 After we had fully enjoyed this prospect, we sought for a 
 gayer and nobler panorama over the vast extent of this region, 
 and reached it by recrossing the bridge ; then started away in 
 a northerly direction, along a road which passed through the 
 uninhabited j)ortion of the city, and from thence commenced a 
 tedious ascent up several steep pairs of stone steps, which led 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 251 
 
 US gradually on to the base of one of the mountains, leaving 
 out, at one side, the residence of Judge Parker, the millionaire 
 of this place. It was about sunset, as we walked slowly along, 
 following the crowd of daily laborers who were returning home 
 on Saturday night to their dwellings, which were built on an 
 elevated plain that formed a wide plateau, while it stretched its 
 broad surface along the margin of a fine growth of forest trees 
 to furnish a beautiful and refreshing shade. We stopped 
 awhile to enjoy it, just beneath the overhanging summit of the 
 Switchback, Avhich crowned this panorama of scenery, and 
 commanded the whole of the valley of the Lehigh, as it over- 
 looked one of the finest landscapes that can be viewed from 
 these hills, or in any other scenery in this country. 
 
 We were then at a point of elevation that introduced to our 
 vision a SAveeping perspective beyond the wide belts of the 
 western range, wherein we could see the rapid Lehigh I'iver as 
 it was dashing its swift waters along the crooked curve of the 
 valleys along whose banks it ran its rippling course, and the 
 extent of our glance reached over a circuit of twenty miles in 
 circumference, so that the smiset could thence be obseiTcd, 
 although darkness had for some time prevailed over the centre 
 of the borough, which was then lying dormant beneath our 
 feet. It was on the very eve of its sinking away for the night 
 when we caught a last sight of its departing rays over the tops 
 of the mountains ; a grand prospect indeed, and all nature in 
 harmony with the repose of the people, who now appeared to 
 be moving on towards the realms of their slumbers, having 
 passed from their labors of the day, to enjoy a Sabbath of 
 rest, which all creation needed. AVe were then convinced that 
 Ave had already gathered much to be laid up in store for us in 
 the future of the next week. 
 
 AVe descended from this position by a bridle-path which led 
 
252 DRIFT THOUGUTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 to the town by the side of the cemetery, and, having crossed 
 along by its sides, returned again to the foot of the hill, and 
 having turned our head but once from a straight direction at 
 its base, from thence hurried on to shelter ourselves and rest 
 our wearied limbs under the melancholy shade of the hotel of 
 the Spread " Eagle's," which was very wrongly named here, 
 " the United States." 
 
 You may be sure that when Sunday came we did not spend 
 much time at that place, but sought first to find out the resi- 
 dence of the clergyman, and were not long in placing ourselves 
 inside the Sabbath school, attending the services which were 
 going on in the school, and afterwards at the church. 
 
 Altogether, Ave passed a very pleasant day, from having en- 
 joyed the services of the Sabbath, and heard the Rev. Mr. 
 Baldy preach his two sermons. We came to the conclusion, at 
 the end of the second day, and retunied that night with a 
 fixed resolve that we would drive out of that spot as soon after 
 Monday morning as the day broke away over the hill-side of 
 the mountains. 
 
 We were heartily sick of it. The hotel had a great deal to 
 do with it, and on Monday, determined not to be caught 
 napping, we footed it up to the plain from which the tram- 
 way cars for the Switchback were to start, and there had to 
 wait until 9 a. m. ; then commenced that ascent, which, after 
 half an hour, brought us to the top, where we obtained one 
 of the finest views in America. The prospect from the summit 
 of the Switchback is not to be surpassed, and that alone would 
 amply compensate you for all your troubles, bother, and cause 
 of complaint which might confront you on your road up to the 
 mean chunk of a place. Why it was called Mauch Chunk we 
 could never discover. Some person informed me that it was for 
 the reason that the Bears' Hunt had once been started from 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 253 
 
 this vicinity ; but we saw no sucli animal, except at the hotel, 
 and after wc had reached the summit, which is more than half 
 way in the tour of the Switchback, where we were gravitated 
 along in a lowback car, we obtained permission, through the 
 influences which the conductor had in this region, to get off 
 of this hog's back, and, seizing hastily the first opportunity 
 that occurred, rode back by gravity motion on top of a coal 
 car, until we were dropped down by the upper side of the 
 town, and thence hurried into the hotel ; paid our bill ; footed 
 it across the Suspension bridge ; bought a ticket through to 
 New York, so glad were we to escape the clutches of the land- 
 lord, who made us pay three days' board, from Saturday night 
 to Monday morning, where we reckoned w^e had hardly got the 
 value of two ; and did not stop to look back, nor scarcely to 
 look out, until we had passed Slateville, so very properly named, 
 for you could see the Slate beds cropping out along the side 
 of the road ; then hastened through AUentown and its large 
 iron works, passed by Bethlehem, rushed fastly by Easton, just 
 catching a sight of its beautifully hung Suspsnsion bridge, 
 which stretches its sweeping garlands of iron branches, swinging 
 across in perfect lines of architectural grace, over the swift con- 
 juncture of the lively Lehigh and greater waters of the Delaware. 
 
 Now while we are rambling away from the dark shadows of 
 the hill sides at Mauch Chunk, we look back in memory to 
 relate one fearful tribute of retribution, which determined 
 its issues in a certain case, Avhich is connected with the history 
 of all fraudulent coal schemes. 
 
 Many years ago there were certain parties whose names this 
 deponent doth not remember, were entitled by the laws of 
 inheritance to a very large tract of coal, which lay, and still is 
 worked in the quarries, some few miles north of Mauch 
 Chunk. By some ingenious process or other we suppose, wc 
 
254 DUIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 denominate it mesne process, Avlaich we will call mean proceed- 
 ings, the witty ingenuity of some shrewd men, conspiring 
 through the facilities which the bar affords, together with the 
 aid of certain sharp practitioners, contrived to defraud a widow 
 out of her dower rights, and succeeded in getting this property 
 into such a perplexing state of embarrassment, that notwith- 
 standing this lady had obtained a settlement for one portion 
 of her interest, the remainder Avas wheedled out of her, and 
 so crooked around her by some such strange confederation of 
 device, or dereliction of remedy, that it has ever since remained 
 in that dreadful state of suspense in the Chambers of Equity, 
 called Statu quo, that not even a Philadelphia lawyer would 
 succeed in unravelling its dark skein, into which it had become 
 entangled ; and it still stands unravelled, just where the last 
 body of these jackals left it, for they had thus only thrown a 
 tub to catch a Avliale. 
 
 In the meantime one of the parties who had succeeded in 
 getting possession, which was one point in law, setting aside 
 the right of possession or that of property as a mere matter to 
 juggle over the bar, or the bench, and the Court of Chancery, 
 led him to think it necessary to visit these mines in which he 
 was pecuniously, surreptitiously, or supposititiously interested, 
 and it happened, " for all chance is design," says Shakspeare, 
 that on his way to visit this estate, the train in which he had 
 been seated, started on while he had stopped a moment by 
 the roadside to take his lunch, and he who was greatly sur- 
 prised at the sudden departure, hastened to run after the cars; 
 now certainly " he who follows after never got before," and in 
 his haste brought on such a state of overheat and excitement, 
 that he burst a blood-vessel; and so he dropped dead, and 
 died on the very spot from which this incipient fraud and 
 violation of human rights had been projected. 
 
for, 
 
 FKOJM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 255 
 
 "Verily there is a divinity 
 Which shapes our ends — rough, 
 How them as wo will." 
 
 " God moves in a mysterious way, 
 His wonders to perform." 
 
 We would not have stopped so suddenly at tliis point, bul 
 that we had been caught on one such back track in the morn 
 ing, and so hastily hurried over the road to get away from the 
 dark spot of the Chunk ; and we could say with Burns, that 
 there was 
 
 " A chiel amang you taking notes, 
 And faith he'll prcnt it," 
 
 which served to point the thought of this little anecdote, a~ r> 
 moral, and thus adorn this tale. 
 
 Now, no book can be a good book which has not some 
 good intention to carry it oft'. For if its tendencies are bad, 
 it would only furnish one of the round curb-stones for the 
 Devil's pavement, and as the Spanish proverb reads — (would 
 shingle over the grave of another sinner, the Old English Saxon, 
 for Hell) which the old Don Hidalgos fancied was almost 
 altogether and all over paved with good intentions (where as 
 it really meant ihat to hell a man was only to bury him) . Where 
 we will now leave him in a hollow on the way ot Scotch Plains 
 to New York, and pursue our journey homeward — that much 
 abased spot where we verily believe there is as much good pre- 
 vailing as there is of evil ; and we can no more than doubt the 
 foct, that there are more healthy people in the world than there 
 
256 
 
 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 are sick in every city. Thus resolved, we will stand up foi 
 these Drift Thoughts, which are not further from the truth than 
 the difference between a hawk and a hernshaw, and advise you 
 all to eschew whatsoever is of evil in them as much as the deviJ 
 hiinsclf hates holy water. 
 
REMINISCENCES, COMMENCING MAY 16, 18- 
 
 €l)aptcr 1. 
 
 DRIFTING OFF. 
 
 It was a fine May morning wlien we started for tlic West ; 
 tLe first blushes of the rising sun lighted up the horizon, and 
 all nature seemed swelling into life, in unison with the gentle 
 waves of our noble bay ; and such was the aspect of nature. 
 
 On the Monday that we left the city of New York for Philar 
 delphia, at five o'clock a.m., via the Amboy railroad, the day was 
 very pleasant, and we were much pleased Avith the scenery as 
 we passed down the " ICillsj'^ but especially with the appearance 
 of Staten Island, which is certainly a beautiful spot, which has 
 been much improved by the tasteful country scats that adorn 
 its shores. Nothing of interest occurred on the way until we 
 arrived at Philadelphia, at one o'clock p.m. The approach to 
 this city was quite beautiful, and the green-swards of the island 
 which fronts the city made it look quite picturesque in its 
 appearance as it gleamed with a sparkle of golden sunshine, 
 like an emerald set on the forehead of this queen-like metropo- 
 lis. Having arrived there we found the " Jones House," at 
 which we put up, to be an exceedingly well kept establishment ; 
 and after having settled down in its rooms, we afterwards 
 
4 I>RIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 went out into the city to make our first call to Mrs. Kuhn's, on 
 Chesnut Street, wliere we delivered our letters ; for we were 
 disappointed in not finding her at home. From thence we pro- 
 ceeded to seek Mrs. King's residence, which was found 
 after a little difiiculty which arose from the bad arrangement 
 of the numbers on the houses ; but when we had finally suc- 
 ceeded, saw the whole family, and were highly pleased Avith 
 all our coiisins, whom we may with truth say, we then had 
 looked on for the first time in our life so as to know them, for 
 we were quite children when last in this city. After dinner we 
 again called on these cousins, and with them went out to view 
 the city and its establishments. 
 
 After our return from sight-seeing, we called at the Phila- 
 delphia Hospital, where we saw Dr. Kobinson, who had been 
 one of our old schoolmates at Mr. Peugnet's, in New York, 
 and were delighted to find him so well situated in his profes- 
 sion ; and after making an arrangement to start together for 
 Baltimore on the next morning, we parted from him, and re- 
 turned for our rest at the hotel. 
 
 In company with one of our aunts and two cousms we pro- 
 menaded through the principal streets of the city, and amused 
 ourselves by making comparisons of the style of their buildings 
 with those of the New Yorkers. They have but few fine 
 houses in Philadelphia, for they are altogether too plain in 
 their fronts. The embarrassed state of the finances seems to 
 have aflfected this city very much, and to have compelled many 
 of the principal families to change their residences. The pub- 
 lic buildings are quite fine, and in excellent taste. The Girard 
 Bank, the United States Bank, and some of the churches are 
 fine specimens of pure taste in architecture. We returned 
 home with our aunt to her house in South Ninth Street, No. 
 168, where we spent a delightful evening in the company of 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 5 
 
 our charming cousins, and that of Judge King, who is a plain 
 spoken, off-handed man, and who kindly offered us a letter to 
 Judge Shaler, of Pittsburgh, which was eagerly accepted. Mr 
 William King favored us also with a letter to a Mr. Smith, who 
 was one of the clerks in the Navy Department at Washington. 
 James Turnbull was also present this evening, who is doing 
 pretty much the same as formerly — for while he remains in his 
 situation with Mr. Hardinge he will never do better. In his 
 company we returned to the hotel, and at eleven o'clock 
 retired to bed. 
 
 Tuesday, iVth. — Started for Baltimore at half-past six a.m., 
 by water, and after we had gone as far as Wilmington by boat, 
 had not an opportunity to visit the first school we ever attended. 
 Here we then took the railroad via Havre-de-Grace,, on to 
 Baltimore, where we arrived about two o'clock p.m., and put 
 up at Barnum's, whose hotel has the renommee, but we think 
 is not equal to the Exchange. At four o'clock the same after- 
 noon we were on our way to Washington, where we arrived at 
 six o'clock P.M. The country through which the route passe.^ 
 is certainly beautiful, especially that portion which is situated 
 around Elkridge Landing, which was rendered highly interest- 
 ing to us from having been the seat of our private tutorship 
 of" our friend Samuel Longfellow, who went to this place as 
 instructor in the family of a Mr. Donaldson. We were quite 
 fortunate in finding Samuel Donaldson in the cars with us, on 
 our way to the Capital, for he had been one of our old 
 acquaintances at Cambridge University, and was connected 
 Avith some of the first families of Baltimore. This interview 
 rendered our after-stay in Baltimore quite agreeable. 
 
 We found Fuller's Hotel to be one of the best of those 
 which had been opened at Washington ; but they are all in a 
 far inferior state to that which the wants of the lar^e num- 
 
6 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART, 
 
 bers of visitors at the Capital demand, and the coup cfoeii 
 presented from the entrance of Brown & Gadsby's Inn was 
 somewhat simih\r to that of an indifferently built pig-stye for 
 the hogs. 
 
 Wednesday morning, 18th. — We started forth to visit the 
 chief objects of attraction in the city itself, and were agreeably 
 disappointed in finding a somewhat more tolerable place than 
 that of- the pictures on which it had been heretofore repre- 
 sented to us. Men arc not apt to be much pleased with the 
 scenes of their disappointed hopes and rejected addresses. 
 The President's House is a building, to be sure, of rather an 
 ancient style of architecture, but it has a very beautiful appear- 
 ance ; and as it stands facing the Potomac we doubt whether 
 the style could be much improved by the present gingerbread 
 style of American plaster-work. The location is on a hill 
 which commands a fine view of the city and also of the river 
 Potomac and the adjoining country ; the grounds are well laid 
 out, and in a good state of preservation, but the furniture of 
 the house itself was perfectly disgraceful for the President of 
 the American people ; and none but those who have the vision 
 of an Ogle could possibly object to the total renewal of the 
 household furniture ; the chairs, sofas and carpets were really 
 in rags, and stood with gaping mou^ths begging for an appro- 
 priation. The Treasury Building is now quite complete, and 
 its appearance quite beautiful, but unfortunately its best part is 
 that which is withdrawn from the public eye, and the style of 
 the entrance is quite objectionable ; whereas a long flight of 
 steps facing the porticoes would render the building more in 
 proportion, and would present a less abrupt front. The State 
 Department stands next to the last, btit was soon to be torn 
 down, and in future it will form one of the wings of the Trea- 
 sury Department. 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 7 
 
 We tlien presented our letter to Mr. Smith, wliom we found tc 
 be an ao-reeable sort of a man, who was exceedingly attentive to 
 us ; however, we were sorry to trouble him, for we became aware 
 til at we could have seen everything without his assistance 
 Nevertheless in his company avc went to the Patent Office, a 
 place of more interest to a stranger than either of the othei 
 Departments, and saw the Museum of this building, which had 
 recently been greatly enriched by an immense shipment of 
 foreign curiosities which had been collected by the South 
 Sea Expedition ; and where specimens of all the Patents that 
 have been taken out since the commencement of our govern- 
 ment, have been deposited behind the glass cases of one of the 
 departments of this building. The Post OfBce Department, 
 which is next to this, was not yet quite finished, but when 
 completed will be a most beautiful building. A few minutes 
 walk brought us to the Capitol, a sight of -Q'hich fully repaid 
 our fatigue, which we experienced walking up the long flight of 
 steps on the avenue leading to it. It is situated on the second 
 of the two only commanding sites in the city. The approach 
 to it, is graduated by a gentle ascending path through the 
 grounds, Avhich are quite extensive, as well as beautifully orna- 
 mented with forest and shrub-trees, and immediately in front 
 of the last flight of the stone-stairs which we had to mount, the 
 monument whicli was erected to the memory of those who fell 
 at Freehold presents itself. After entering the building, we 
 passed into the rotunda, where our attention was arrested by 
 the statue of Washington by Greenough. Although command- 
 ing, and there arises a sentiment of reverence in the beholder 
 while viewing it, we cannot say that we -were pleased with it 
 for a Washington, for it reminded one as much of that of the 
 Jupiter Stator, at Eome, as of the Father of America. The 
 panels on the sides of the rotunda are not yet filled. The paint- 
 
8 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 ing called tlie " Baptism of Pocahontas " was quite well exe- 
 cuted, altliough it lacks unity of design. The faces are evi- 
 dently portraits, which is a great mistake in painting a scene 
 which took place so many years ago. The likeness of Miss 
 Gardner, who is now Mrs. Morton, is good. After visiting 
 both houses, and observing that nothing of importance was 
 then under discussion, or about to be brought forward that 
 day, we ascended to the top of the dome, and there enjoyed 
 one of the most extensive panoramas we ever beheld, though 
 not equal in beauty to that from Milton Hill, near Boston ; or 
 in sublimity to the scene presented from the top of Mount 
 Washington, in New Hampshire. In the afternoon, we return- 
 ed to Baltimore, and after having assured ourselves that we 
 could not obtain a room at Barnum's, we proceeded to the 
 Exchange ; much pleased at our disappointment, for in future 
 we shall give the preference to the latter. After supper, we 
 proceeded to find Williams, one of our old classmates, and 
 were surprised to learn that he was present at the encampment, 
 outside of the city limits ; however, we were ushered into the 
 presence of his father and sister, and although we regretted the 
 absence of our friend, were fully compensated by the agreeable 
 manners of his sister, who, as Ave have since learned, is univer- 
 sally beloved for the amiability of her character and the sweet- 
 ness of her disposition. 
 
 Thursday, 19th. — We spent most of the morning with 
 Samuel Donaldson ; the rest of the day, however, was agreea- 
 bly spent in visiting the principal buildings of Baltimore. 
 We were much pleased with the Hall of Records, which was 
 expressly built with the intention of preserving the historical 
 records and documents which were connected with the foun- 
 dation of the city. The cathedral is also a very fine building, 
 but as we chanced to pass on whilst the service was being 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 9 
 
 performed we -were deprived of the opportunity of seeing the 
 valuable paintings which it contains, and of course of seeing 
 the venerable old sexton, who is as much an object of curiosity 
 as the cathedral itself. The Washington Monument is fine, in 
 good taste, simple and chaste. It is certainly the best in the 
 country, not even excepting that granite plinth which has been 
 erected on Bunker Hill. It is composed of a round column, 
 supported on a beautifully chaste basis, surmounted by a finely 
 executed statue of the Patriot. On its base the principal events 
 of his life are put in apposition ; while the whole is inclosed by 
 a very neat iron railing, and on each side a lot of land is left 
 entirely reserved for the use of the monument. On the whole, 
 we were much pleased with the appearance of Baltimore. The 
 streets are wide and clean, the buildings in good taste, and 
 the inhabitants seem to be good-natured, well-disposed, and 
 of hale and hearty constitutions. And as to the women, they 
 are splendid, and are generally considered to be the handsom- 
 est in the Union. 
 
 After dining with Donaldson, we sauntered out to the 
 encampment, in hopes of seeing Williams, but were disap- 
 pointed, as his corps was then performing guard duty. We 
 were about returning from thence, quite fatigued, when an 
 instance of petty tyranny arrested our attention, which Avas 
 quite shocking to our principles. We saw a poor black suf- 
 fering under the lash of a brute who saw fit to exercise the 
 rod of vengeance on this color, merely because he endeavored 
 to sell a few cakes to the frequenters of the muster ground ; 
 and notwithstanding the obedience of the negro in withdraw- 
 ing from the field, under his threats and blows, he still con- 
 tinued frequent application of the lash over his back, whilst 
 the boy was writhing and suffering agony under this torture. 
 We then thought he had proceeded too far, and mildly expos- 
 
10 
 
 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 tulated with this wicked fellow ; and as soon as he saw us 
 sympathizing he withdrew, after sullenly repeating his threat3 
 of vengeance against the boy if he dared to peddle any cakes 
 there again. On inquiring further into this matter, we learned 
 that this brute had no lawful power over the negro man but 
 wliat his own cruelty saw fit to usurp. At first, we thought 
 that the boy was his slave, and of course could not consistently 
 interfere with his legal owner ; as it was, we had the satisfac- 
 tion of relieving him from a further beating, and departed, 
 reflecting upon the only instance of brutality or inhumanity 
 which had any tendency to mar the pleasure of our visit to 
 Baltimore. 
 
ail)aptn' 2» 
 
 WESTWARD— HO ! 
 
 f KiDAY, 20tli. — We started westward, and took the railroad 
 to Elkridge, on our way to Frederick's at the Elkridge Junc- 
 tion ; it was here that we met Major Sandford, who was accom- 
 panied by two ladies, who were the daughters of Major Craw- 
 ford, agent of the Indian Affairs at Washington, with whom we 
 proceeded thence on our way to Frederick, and thence were 
 driven all the remaining portion of our way as far as Wheel- 
 ing, in stages ; from Frederick to Hagerstown we had the 
 most wretched stages that Uncle Sara's mails ever had the 
 pleasure of being carried in ; the windows were broken out, 
 and the rain beat in, much to our annoyance and the inconve- 
 nience of the ladies who were with us, one of whom was quite 
 unwell in consequence of a chill, under which she was suffering 
 all the way over. The cunning driver had got us in, and all 
 our remonstrances against his negligence to repair the glass 
 were spent in vain. Experience, however, obtained at small 
 cost, is worth something when it has taught us that there is 
 little or nothing to be gained by scolding him for this poor 
 privilege of riding in a rickety old United States coach. Our 
 troubles were increased rather than diminished at our next 
 change of stages, for the windows were entirely out, and there 
 
12 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART.' 
 
 was not even a fragment of a broken window-glass to assure us 
 tliat ttere ever w^as any in that vehicle's ancient body. 
 
 Besides tlie approacli of nightfall and the proximity of the 
 mountainous country, apprehensions of freezing to death, and 
 what was worse, of laboring under the influences of a severe 
 attack of nightmare, brought on by indigestion and hastily 
 precipitated suppers, rendered this portion of our journey rather 
 disagreeable. However, a sound sleep — sweet solace of our 
 woes — made us soon forget our situation, and early daylight 
 discovered us some forty miles from where we had started. At 
 Cumberland, the starting-point of the Great National Koad, we 
 entered into the troubles of the second day. 
 
 Saturday, 21st. — The rain had ceased and the roads became 
 better. The stage was changed, and we found ourselves com- 
 fortably seated in an old-fashioned stage-coach ; the day was 
 agreeably spent. Some amusement was of course derived from 
 recounting the experiences of the past night, but we were 
 much more delighted by the interesting nature of the scenery, 
 Avhich was of a mountainous character, and to many of us 
 quite novel, so far as regarded its sjiblime aspects; the charac- 
 ter of the soil was in a great degree fertile, and in many places 
 uncommonly so. The land lying between Hagerstown and 
 Hancock presented one of the finest tracts of grain that we 
 had ever seen ; limestone abounds here, and renders the under- 
 crust peculiarly adapted for the growth of the corn, Avhich 
 was flourishing in great profusion and uncommonly thick ; the 
 greater portion of the lands this side of the Alleghany is suita- 
 ble for the growth of other grains, but not all of them to the 
 cultivation of Avheat ; one tract of twenty miles was produc- 
 tive of the finest, and flourishing now under a high state of 
 cultivation. Some of the valleys between the mountains are 
 also quite fertile, but generally the land does not assume that 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUJfMITS. ]3 
 
 rich and luxuriantly fruitful appearance until you have passed 
 over the Alleghanies and arrived at Unionsville. The gi*eat 
 interest attached to the remaining portion of this country is in 
 the wildness and sublimity of the scenery ; most of it is too 
 high and wild ever to admit of cultivation, and here nature 
 may be seen capering in its Avildest freaks, untutored by the 
 hand of man. The appearance of the mountains is beautifully 
 picturesque ; sometimes you ascend for miles, and are not 
 aware of the immense height that has been attained until when 
 perched up on the summit of some of these Alpine-looking 
 cliffs, you look down into the valleys beneath, whilst mountain 
 and valley, hill and dale stretch themselves out in boundless 
 succession of unlimited prospects, even to an extent which was 
 beyond the view of our mortal vision. The highest point in 
 passing the mountains was the last mount, which is called 
 " Laurel Hill ; " here the scenery was sublimely grand and 
 beautiful ; the road, like a narrow strip, girds the mountain's 
 sides, and is seen winding around the hills like one of its 
 native streams. Forest trees unmutilated by hands, and to 
 which time still lends their charms of beauty, deck the moun- 
 tain-tops and wide amphitheatre of woodland, glade and val- 
 ley, spread far beyond the extreme limits of the horizon. It 
 looked indeed beautiful, even on a poor and foggy day ; what 
 must be the brilliancy of this scene when sunlight streams 
 through the forest glades and dew-drops of the recent rain 
 glitter like stars among the dark shades of the forest leaves, 
 when gilded clouds extend the glory of the sunbeams, while 
 universal gladness warms the earth and the winds sigh their 
 grand and solemn requiems at the close of the departing day ! 
 Having now reached Unionville, we supped, and after having 
 found an agent on whom we could vent a little of the torture 
 which we had so keenly felt, we soon found ourselves snugly 
 
14 niair rnoir.urs — wiok ataki'. 
 
 ousoouoovl in {\w folds of ;i oomt'ortaMo ooaoli, tI>o wimlow- 
 glasisos of wh'u'h woiv ontiro. 
 
 rnljappily, OHO ovil Ik'uI only boon oxohangoil for anotlior; 
 for among" tho aooossiiMi n»;ulo to onr passonvjors, wo soon dis- 
 oovortnl that ouo porson had 1h\m\ addod to onr nunibor in tho 
 shapo of a plaii<io, for onr now oonipanion smoh most villan- 
 onsly of gin and solodoathor. and wo sliortly disoovorod that 
 onr snspioions woro oontirmod, hv his ropoatod oalls for dri;ik 
 at ovory tavorn whioh was passod by tho waysido. Tho ox- 
 triMuo inoohoronoy of this follow's oonvors;»tion rathor amusod 
 us at tii-st ; for boing by tnulo a h>athor-ilrossor, liis oduoation 
 did not, porliaps, warrant any hopos of our tinding nuioh ro- 
 tinomont in this qnartor. Fortnnatoly, tliis souroo of tronbK> 
 wjvs soon iji^tton rid of, for ho was loft on tho road vory soon 
 attor wo liad takou liim up. Tho roads on this ronto aro o\- 
 ooodingly tino, and may bo dividod into two jjroat routos, — that 
 frvMU Fivdoriok to Cuniborhind, wliioh is a inao,'ulanu7,od road, 
 this had boon oonstrnotod by a oorporation ; and seoondly, 
 tho groat Ciimboriand Highway, whioh is also maoadamizod, 
 tho stonos for wliioh woro found along tho rv->ad-sido iu the 
 limostono that abounds iu tho vioinity in quarrios, and the ouly 
 kinvi adaptod for tho purpose of ooustructiug a suitable foun- 
 dation for travel. 
 
 The ivst of our journey to Wheeling was spent without anv 
 further matter of interest. The approaeh of the town is very 
 pioturesquo ; the town itself is surmounted by a very hiiih hill, 
 whioh oommanded at onoe a prospeet over the magnitioontly 
 wild valleys thrv>ugh whioh Wheeling Creek wiuds its weary 
 length, and at the s;imo time brings in sight a glimpse of tho 
 Ohio river, whioh was now presented to our view. Wheeling 
 itself was found to be a misenibly dirty town, that was ren- 
 dered so by the quantity of bituuiinous eoal wliioh is used here. 
 
VliOSJ illV. HKA TO lilK RUMMITR. 1 /> 
 
 and i« furnifilif;'] in jrroat abiitxJancc from IiilU in tliin nriif/li- 
 borhoo'l. It aboiindH al^o in nioht of tfio ininci* of thi« cour)- 
 try, under the hills, which arc filled with thiji miticral, and by 
 whoHC BidcB we had \niVM-A on our way to this town ; and 
 wherever it ap[<earH, it seerriH to be prcHcnted under a stratifi- 
 cation of red nuTKht/jWi, hiatc, «hale, <kc. 
 
 We cannot proceed farther without reinarkinj^ on the admi- 
 rable fttat/; of the roa/JH throuj^hoiit tlie whole exte;it of our 
 ride from Frederiek U> Wheelinf^, for, as before remarked, they 
 are composed of lirncKtone, with which thiw country abounds, 
 »o that with little trouble they are enabled to keep the roads 
 in perff.ct repair. Even in wet weather this roa/l in better tlian 
 any other ordinary roa/i» are in dry. 
 
 At Uniontown, one of the rnowt important villaj^CH on thin 
 ront^j, at which plaee we arrived at about half pa-.t hix o'clock 
 H.vc., and took tea, we found an aj^ent of the ruail-route, and 
 availed our»elvc» of the event to »howcr forth on him our vol- 
 ley of abijJWiS a;^ainHt the miserable state of th^; coaches on this 
 route ; the result of which was, that our situation for the remain- 
 ing part of the journey wa« more comfortable. Mr. Stockt^^n, 
 the R^jn of Stockton the former mail contractor, resides at this 
 place, and hits a beautiful residence on the roarlside, which 
 commanrhi a fine view of the village, and in located on a point 
 of land that lies nearly half way to Brownsville. Here our 
 number inside the stage was hIm increased at the expense of 
 the selectnesH, for our companion carried about him effluvia 
 of gin which rendered his presence disgusting. Our suspicions 
 of his intemperate habits were soon confirmf^ by Ills repeated 
 calls on every tavern. The effects of his frequent potations 
 soon became sensible, so tliat he speedily rea/died tliat peculiar 
 Rtate of drunkenness which vents itself in a desire to be ex- 
 tremely communicative. His tongue, unfortunately, partook 
 
IG DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APAKT. 
 
 of the looseness of his morals, and his conversation became 
 too bawdy to be long endured. We soon discovered that he 
 was a tanner by trade, a fact which we ought to have inferred, 
 for his body was in that sinuous process of soaking which was 
 necessary for the purposes of his craft. One fact he commu- 
 nicated, which, if true, is Avorthy of note ; that is, a fine black 
 can be obtained by first rising of a solution of logwood and 
 then applying a mixture of vinegar and iron-rust, dispensing 
 with the use of copperas. We were quite amused at his inco- 
 herent attempts at singing. Peculiar as was his style, he 
 seemed to be much given to psalm-singing. 
 
 Arrived at Beallsville, we Avere soon rid of this nuisance. 
 Night was now far advanced, and from this place to within a 
 short distance from Wheeling we Avere left in a happy state of 
 oblivious slumber. Soon after awaking out of it, at daAvn, we 
 passed by a monument Avhich had been erected to Henry Clay 
 by one Mr. Sheppard, Avho was one of the principal contract- 
 ors of this road. This Avas situated at the junction of the 
 road ; and near to this point the Monongahela river passes by 
 a beautiful residence, Avhich we believe belongs to the above 
 Sheppard. 
 
 Sunday, 22d. — We remained at Wheeling during the Sab- 
 bath, and had a good opportunity, not only to see the city and 
 country, and its inhabitants, but also to be so completely sick of 
 the place as ncA^er to desire to revisit it, or such a spot, Avhich may 
 be appropriately termed, '■^Facilis descensus Averni,''^ as the abode 
 of Tartarean Darkness ; nor is there a Styx wanting as a figure 
 to carry out the descent to it— that being fully represented by 
 the sloAv, stagnant and muddy Avaters of Wheeling Creek. The 
 houses are entirely marked by the smoke which proceeds from 
 the constant use of the bituminous coal, which is found in 
 abundance not only in this neighborhood, but throughout the 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 17 
 
 whole line of the Alleghanies. The complexion of the people 
 has imbibed a tincture of coal-dust, for their faces wore a 
 sombre hue, even on Sunday — a fact which either supposed the 
 absence of soap, or the impossibility of removing the accumu- 
 lated dirt of the week at one washing. As it is quite a manu- 
 facturing town, it demands an increased supply for this purpose. 
 Notwithstanding the hideousness of the town, its location is 
 sufficiently beautiful. On its back it is protected from the bleak 
 northern winds by the natural ramparts of its hills, and in front, 
 the Ohio flows in its gentle course through the undulating hills 
 Avhich bound its margin, and are decked in all the variety of 
 hues which luxuriant foliage can assume. They have a rope- 
 ferry here, which is worked altogether by the force of the 
 river's current acting upon several triangular boats placed at 
 certain distances across the stream, and by a strong hawser 
 which is attached at once to some point on the shore near the 
 banks, and to the ferry-boat itself. 
 
 The land in the vicinity of this place is quite fertile, and pro- 
 duces fine crops of wheat and other grains in abundance. It 
 contains twenty thousand inhabitants, but as to whereabout 
 they live, and where they keep themselves, we leave it for the 
 microscopic investigations of some future traveller. The town 
 is spread for a mile or two along the shores of the Ohio. The 
 population is mixed, composed of many Germans, French, etc. 
 They obtain plenty of fresh-water fish from the Ohio ; and deer 
 and other game are found in abundance in the mountains back 
 of the outskirts of its forest. 
 
 Just as we were about retiring for the night, we learned 
 with pleasure that a steamboat had arrived, and that we should 
 be conveyed from thence in the morning. 
 
€l)aptcr 3. 
 
 WHEELING— DOWN THE OHIO. 
 
 23d. — On Monday wc bade adieu to Wheeling, and took oui 
 passage in the " Pilot " — a boat of the second class. We were 
 quite struck with the appearance of this boat, which was a 
 sample of all those boats which steam away under high pres- 
 sure on this river. They are constructed Avith a very flat bot- 
 tom, and run on the high-pressure principle. The noise of the 
 steam which escapes at every stroke of the piston is at first 
 quite disagreeable, but liabit soon reconciles one to it. They go 
 puffing along like a huge puffing pig, or porpoise, or wc might 
 say leviathan, if I could be assured that the said animal made 
 a noise with its breath like the great behemoth of the Scrip- 
 tures. 
 
 On board we met Mr. Richard Dodge, who had formerly been 
 a graduate of Yale College in New Haven, but was at present a 
 student of theology at Princeton ; from liim we learned that 
 the school at Edg('hill, where we had once upon a time 
 been under the instruction of Dr. Patton, had fallen into 
 utter insignificance and disrepute ; that also Mr. BroAvn, whom 
 Stephens mentions in his Travels in Yucatan as residing \n 
 Tobasco, was then on board, and that he was a sceptic in 
 
FROM THE SKA TO THE SUM»riTS. 19 
 
 his belief, a fact wliicli is probably occasioned by a long 
 absence from the use of public Avorship, and from his asso- 
 ciations Avith the heathen, who constituted his only fellow- 
 countrymen in those benighted regions of Central America. 
 
 The scenery along the shores of the Ohio was very beauti- 
 ful. A long succession of gracefully undulating hills range on 
 both sides. The river itself is occasionally dotted by an island 
 which floats in peerless beauty on its glassy waves, setting off 
 the rich green of the vegetation on its banks, as well as on 
 the other islands, that were extremely luxuriant at the present 
 season of the year, and by such glowing effects added much to 
 the extreme verdure of the surrounding scenery. The grasses 
 in some spots were vividly bright in tone, and a most perfect 
 hue of pea-green, and fully sustained our ideas of the English 
 lawns. The soil on both sides seemed at times exceedingly 
 fertile. The bottoms, however, change from one side to 
 another. Corn grows on some to such a profitable extent as 
 to yield sixty bushels to the acre. 
 
 Among the many islands that we passed, that of Blcnner- 
 hasset is preeminently lovely, and fully equalled our expectations, 
 as well as the charm which association has thrown around this 
 spot. It probably contained several hundred acres. At present, 
 it is mostly owned by a Virginian, who paid $6,000 for his share. 
 Just as we were passing, a pretty little doe, which was seen 
 enjoying its gambols on the opposite shore, lent quite an air of 
 romance to the prospect, and led us back to the wilderness of 
 the primitive times. Tlie gentle shades of evening were now 
 spreading themselves over the earth and added a fresh beauty to 
 the landscape. The forest-clad hills threw their dark shadows 
 across the stream, and slept on the bosom of tlie river, while 
 the winds were lulled, and naught Avas licard but the noise of 
 <ic boat Avhilst she Avas gently slipping down the river on her 
 
20 DRIFT THOUGHTS AVIDE APART. 
 
 way to the harbor. Such a scene invited us to rest, and Nature 
 was not at all backward in accepting the call to pleasant 
 slumbers. 
 
 Tuesday 24th was spent in much the same manner as 
 yesterday. Soon after breakfast we stopped on the Virginia 
 side to take in wood, during which interval we went on shore 
 with the intention of purchasing some milk if it could be 
 obtained. We entered a farm-house which was near, and 
 were surprised at finding a beautiful girl on the bank, about 
 twenty years old, in rather an indifferent log-cabin, as such 
 instances of beauty are rare in such places. Her complexion 
 was of that soft and delicate hue which accompanies auburn 
 hair ; and a pair of soft blue eyes, which had borrowed their 
 beauty from the sky above, lent an air of expressiveness to her 
 foce. To such a creature we proffered our request for a drop 
 of fresh milk, and as she poured forth the long-desired draught, 
 we felt as if indeed we had drunk of the milk of human kind- 
 ness. When we had inquired of her about the state of the 
 land, she told us that it was good for grain and corn, and that 
 they themselves possessed 204 acres. Among other things 
 they remarked, it was feverish in these parts, that many had 
 suffered from the fever and ague, and some had died from its 
 effects. The girl we discovered was the daughter of an aged 
 couple in a family, of which an elderly matron who was sitting 
 at a spinning-wheel was the mother, and from all we could 
 discover, we concluded they were the pioneers and original 
 settlers of this homestead. We purchased several quarts of 
 milk, and this beverage satisfied our thirst for the remainder of 
 the journey, for the water on board was intolerable. Wood 
 was to be obtained here for one dollar twenty-five cents per cord. 
 
 During the course of the day we passed several towns on 
 the banks. Portsmouth, one of them, is interesting, as con- 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 21 
 
 taining a canal, which leads to Chillicothe, and is a place 
 of some importance. At Maysville, another important town 
 in Kentucky, we stopped and took in some freight and also 
 a few passengers, among whom, we afterwards discovered, 
 was Mr. Bolton, of New York, with his daughter, who had 
 been to New^ Orleans for her health, and was still in a very 
 delicate state. There is a great deal of tobacco shipped here, 
 also flax and hemp. After supper we were entertained for 
 some time by a discourse from a Mormon preacher, who wa3 
 on board ; he spoke for some time quite sensibly, until he 
 came to his own peculiar tenets, and there he made sorry work, 
 for his doctrines were rather schismatic for our church. We 
 found tlie passengers exceedingly communicative, and willing 
 to iinp;irt any information it was in their power to give. In 
 conversing with a stranger from Ohio, who avc believe was a 
 farmer, we learned that the best lands in Ohio for wheat and 
 gn.in were in Massillon county, in the upper part of the State, 
 and that there are also some fine bottoms in the loAver con ^ 
 lies, but there fevers prevail too much to render them 
 desirable for habitation. Horses can be obtained for $50, 
 excellent ones for $75, and the cost of bringing them over the 
 mountains is from $10 to $15 a head ; this holds good also of 
 other cattle, and they are all brought over on foot, by land, 
 for this method is preferred to water transportation. 
 
 During the passage we were much amused by an anecdote 
 Avhich was related concerning Joe Smith's style of preaching, 
 which was listened to by the narrator. After speaking for 
 some time about repentance, he spoke of the states of grace, 
 and then remarked, that there was one state from which, if a 
 man fell, he could never recover his former estate. Now, 
 there are several states of grace,- but if you fall from one you 
 can be restored again to favor. " Now," says he, " I will ex- 
 
22 DRIFT THOUGHTS "WIDE APART. 
 
 plain this : Look at that 'ere tree there before you ; that yon 
 der branch," says he, " is Zaccheus No. 1. Now if a man falls 
 from that, why, perhaps he breaks his leg ; the doctor comes 
 and sets it, and he gets over it, and soon walks about again. 
 That higher branch is Zaccheus No. 2 ; if a man falls from that 
 he gets most seriously bruised, and considerably smashed, but 
 after a great deal of care and much good nursing he gets up, 
 and is as well as ever. But that there highest branch on the 
 tip-top of the tree is Zaccheus No. 3 ; now, if a man falls from 
 that there is no hope for him; he gets killed eternally, and 
 there is no curing him." 
 
 This anecdote, as well as much conversation about this pecu- 
 liar sect, was suggested by some furniture there was on board 
 which was destined for the city of Nauvoo, in Illinois, which 
 has been found, on further revelation, to be the New Jerusalem. 
 In their happy and facile adaptation of Revelation to their own 
 purposes, they saw fit to insist upon the first revelation in Mis- 
 souri. We had a Mormon family on board, to the use of 
 whose furniture we were much indebted, for we found two 
 very comfortable rocking-chairs among its household wares, 
 from the soft seats of which we enjoyed the land views as we 
 passed along the river's banks at our case. 
 
CINCINNATI— THE QUEEN CITY. 
 
 Wednesday morning we arrived at Cincinnati, long before 
 the break of day, and went as soon as it was possible with 
 Mr. Dodge to visit the celebrated garden of Mr. Longworth. 
 On our way there we stopped at the market, and were aston- 
 ished at the profusion of good things which had been spread 
 out on the stalls. The strawberries were countless, and of a 
 larger size than the largest we have ever seen in New York, 
 for Avhich only 12^^ cents a quart was asked. We also stopped 
 at the Henrie House, and there learned that the Wards had 
 departed the day before for Lexington and the Cave. We then 
 proceeded to our destination, and on the way were pleased to 
 see the beauty of the streets, and admired the many fine 
 buildings of this city. On arriving at the garden we walked 
 through the grounds, and after having satisfied ourselves with 
 what art had done here for nature, and having made a fruit- 
 less search for the owner of the premises, we departed, and 
 resumed our way to the hotel. 
 
 Mr. Longworth is one of the wealthiest inhabitants of this 
 place, and has grown up to be one of fortune's favorites. He 
 commenced life as a poor shoemaker, and becoming here one 
 of the earliest inhabitants of this place, he has risen Avith the 
 
24 DBIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APAKT. 
 
 city in its rapid growth. There is something peculiar about 
 this profession, and notwithstanding the lowness of its condi- 
 tion, the cobbler's stool has filled the scat of many ambitious 
 views. The history of llans Sach shows that even the Schu- 
 macher could be immortalized ; and it was the dried skin 
 of one of these sedentary men which, when turned into a 
 drum and beat on a skin-head of parchment, roused the whole 
 of Europe to arms and into such a fearful state of revolution, 
 as frightful in its results as if a huge meteoric stone liad fallen 
 from the skies into the midst of the lap of our planet. 
 
 So much by w'ay of moral reflections, &c. After breakfast 
 we sauntered out to see the town, and called upon Rufus Ki:ig, 
 who had once been one of our old la\v companions at CJam- 
 bridgc. Found him in, and spent some time in conveising 
 about old times. He mentioned to us that his mother was at 
 present in Philadelphia; that John was last heard from on the 
 coast of Chili, bound to China, and that Worthington had given 
 up his rustic notions about being a farmer, and liad in view 
 the profession of medicine — an Esculapius's fit, as in homeop- 
 athy it becomes. After dinner we w'cre grieved to bid fare- 
 well to our friend Mr. Sandford ; felt almost solitary at his 
 departure, and should have been utterly disconsolate but for 
 the kind attentions of our friend King, who was determined 
 that our visit should be rendered in every respect agreeable. 
 He called to inform us of an invitation from Mr. Carneal to a 
 small party that eve;iing about eight o'clock. We obtained a 
 horse and sauntered out in Main street to the extreme limits of 
 the city, and even continued the ride some distance into the 
 country, where we were much struck by the romantic appear- 
 ance of a suburban village called " Mount Auburn." It looked 
 more like a collection of gentlemen's country -scats than a vil- 
 lage proper. This was beautifidly situated on the high hills 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUSfMITS. 25 
 
 back of Cincinnati. The views about were very picturesque, 
 and all the lands seemed to be in a hign state of cultivation, 
 and rising on receding grades of graceful terraces, appeared to 
 be well adapted for tlie planting of vineyards for the growth 
 of grapes. The actual product from this source had been very 
 profitably carried on by Mr. Longworth ; and having completed 
 the tour, we returned from thence and took a winding road, 
 and by a slow trot along the base of these cliffs entered the city 
 near the Water-works; and after approaching the town, directed 
 the horse into a circuitous path so as to pass through most of 
 the streets of this city, which appeared at a distance to be 
 Avorthy of note. While passing through one, we observed a 
 Jciuit College had been erected there, whilst in another we 
 discovered some fine churches and also many beautiful and 
 neatly-built private residences. 
 
 Shortly after our return to the hotel Mr. King entered with 
 Mr. Canieal, to whom we were introduced. We found him 
 quite a clever young man, with .rather a bass and deep sound- 
 ing tone in his enunciation. lie invited us to pass the evening 
 with him, Avhich act of civility was as eagerly accepted as it 
 was politely tendered, and about Y o'clock p.m. we proceeded 
 with King to the residence of Mr. Carneal, where Ave Averc de- 
 lighted to find his sister present, Avho is one of the most pol- 
 ished ladies of the West ; for her reputation is not limited to 
 this spot ; she is Avell known as the belle of St. Charles, and 
 her family is one of the principal ones here, Avhere they live in 
 a style fully befitting the latitude of Ncav York. We Avere 
 pleased to meet several ladies at this gathering, among Avhom 
 was ^Irs. Roberts, a lady of very graceful manners and of great 
 vivacity of conversation, though we suspect her good taste had 
 deceived her into an affectation, when she attempted to Galli- 
 cisa such a purely American name as Roberts, with an accent 
 
2G DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 on the e, as if it were spelt Robertz ; also a Miss Reeves, tlie 
 niece of tlie Senator of tlie same name from Virginia, which 
 latter proved to be a very pleasant lady, quite gracious in licr 
 manner, and amiable in her disposition. Besides tlicsc two 
 there was a Miss Longvvorth, the daughter of the above-named 
 Mr. Longworth the millionaire ; and among the gentlemen 
 present were Mr. Longworth, Mr. Carneal, Jr., Mr. King, and 
 Baron Van Staaten, of the Belgian Legation, whom 1 found to 
 be quite a polished gentleman, in whose company we afterwards 
 derived much pleasure. It was one of tlie pleasantest parties 
 we had ever attended. We spent the time in conversation, 
 and were much pleased with the taste and elegance displayed 
 by the ladies. It required no exertion to imagine ourselves in 
 one of the most brilliant circles of our Northern cities, with 
 this exception, — there was more real natural pleasure and benefit 
 to be derived from this kind of social intercourse than was ever 
 collected in the whole aggregate number of mere fashionables' 
 routs. Miss Calso delighted us by singing. She possesses 
 a clear and pow'crful voice, and, with some cultivation, would 
 make one of the most brilliant amateur singers of our times. 
 
 We discovered that these ladies were possessed of as much 
 literary taste as is agreeable at a small party, and sufficiently so 
 at least as to bar them the cognomen of blue-stockings, and 
 were well versed in the foreign literature and the languages. 
 Mr. Jewett, whom we met here, and who had been one of the 
 literarians of a college, spoke them, and seemed to be quite 
 at home in the matter of foreio;n lano;uao;es. We afterwards 
 learned that he was graduated at Harvard, which is quite enough 
 to account for his literary accomplishments. Among us we 
 managed to collect sufficient French to render the Count quite 
 at his ease and at home in their society ; for, as he afterwards 
 expressed himself, he was quite delighted with all the atteu- 
 
FROM THE SE\ TO THE SCTVTMITS. 21 
 
 tions which had been shown him. Therefore the evening went 
 off quite liappily and pleasantly, for there was that happy com- 
 mingling of spirits in " that " feast of reason and flow of soul, 
 which mates conversation truly delightful, and gives that sym- 
 pathetic bond to society without which the language of words 
 is but inexpressive of ideas ; otherwise " words become then 
 only counters for the wise but the money of fools." Such is a 
 specimen of the society of Cincinnati, -which is famed for its 
 literary aspirations. Thenceforth may we hear no more such 
 questions as, " Is there any Society in the West ? " or, " Are 
 the people supplied with the ordinary comforts of life ?" To 
 such we reply, " Come and see ; " and you will find that the 
 people don't use their fingers for spoons, and that their pigs 
 don't run about the street already roasted, with knives and 
 forks stuck in their backs. Miss Carneal had spent the greatei 
 part of last winter in New Orleans, and it was there no doubt 
 that she found abundant opportunity for thus cultivating her 
 fine musical talent, for she sang Italian with as much grace cer- 
 tainly as any Italian singer ever could, and in parts of the 
 opera of Norma acquitted herself with as much ease as ever 
 graced the lips of Grisi. 
 
 On Thursday it rained almost during the entire day, and we 
 were obliged to keep house, and occupied the rainy spell by 
 quietly writing up our journal and in writing home. In the 
 evening, in company with Mrs. Major Brown and the Baron, 
 we went to the play, and were quite pleased with the perform- 
 ance of Mrs. Fitzwilliam and Buckstone. She is a charming 
 actress in her line, but is getting rather old. The theatre is a 
 good one, and is somevvhat larger than Niblo's. 
 
 On Friday morning, as we were passing up Broadway, who 
 should meet us but Mr. VVm. Bradford from New York, who 
 gave us a letter from our family. We made an engagement to 
 
28 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 go together to tlie " Mammotli Cave," and witli this intention 
 fixed upon our mind, agreed on Monday for a start. Soon after 
 this we went to see a Mr. Wood, who has a peculiar style of 
 drawing, which is Avell adapted for sketclies and particularly 
 well suited for moonlight landscapes. He showed us several 
 designs which looked quite well, and although sketched in the 
 short space of an hour, they had the finish of elaborate crayon 
 drawings. His process, we surmise, is to grease the paper pre- 
 vious to using the pencil, probably with some oily matter, and 
 then by the use of French Black Chalk, Crayon, the most 
 striking lights are scratched out, while the natural gray color 
 of the paper serves for the ordinary neutral light tints to be 
 left in black, so as to form a very pretty effect. This, however, 
 is mere conjecture. We learned this morning that the steamer 
 " Victress " was bound on a pleasure excursion up the Missis- 
 sippi, to the Falls of St. Anthony, so we took our leave of the 
 Baron, wjio went in the " Alleghanys," and shortly after din- 
 ner went to visit Mr. Longworth's garden, and while there saw 
 Mrs. Longworth, who is a very amiable old lady, and also Mr. 
 Anderson, her son-in-law, and after visiting the green-house 
 passed through the garden to the extremest verge and dis- 
 covered a most beautiful walk, wherein the natural woods 
 were retained and the borders were lined with a careless pro- 
 fusion of richly blooming flowers. It was a perfect dell, and 
 fully suited for the romantic disposition of a heart-sick lover. 
 
 When returning from our walk, we met Mrs. R., Miss C, 
 and Miss L., and returned nearly to their homes with them, 
 and in the evening went with King to a party at Mrs. Starr's, 
 where we spent a most agreeable evening, there met the above- 
 named ladies as Avell as many other of the ladies of Cincin- 
 nati, together with a Miss Coolidge, of Boston, whose sisters 
 were married to the Reverend Dr. Haight, of New York, and 
 
FROM THE SE.V TO THE SUMMITS. 29 
 
 Mr. Pomeroy, of this place, who were also present ; we were 
 much pleased with the coup d'oeil in the social order of the 
 place, as it afforded us an excellent opportunity to form our 
 judgment on this point, but cannot say that the ladies and 
 gentlemen suffered under the scrutiny of our gaze. The women 
 appeared to good advantage, and parties here have all the busy 
 hum of conversation and small-talk which is to be met Avith 
 in the gayer cities of the North. The supper was quite in 
 season ; in short, it was not a large party, but merely a sociable, 
 which was very seasonably and appropriately yclept a *' straw- 
 berry party." 
 
 On Saturday morning we met Mr. Eckley, from Boston, at 
 the door of the hotel, and, in company with him and Mr. Gwinn, 
 spent most of the evening. We must not forget to mention a 
 visit to Piatt Evans, Esqr.'s hijou of a house, where we all went 
 to purchase some visiting cards, for he keeps a kind of fancy 
 store, and is one of the most decided natural curiosities to be 
 seen in the metropolis of Swinekill, or Porkopolis. After 
 making our purchases, he insisted upon taking us over his 
 entire house, which was found to be replete with all the com- 
 forts and luxuries of life, and to be one of the best arranged 
 houses ever entered, constructed, or furnished. His furniture 
 was in the most perfect keeping, and the whole house had an 
 appearance of maidenish neatness. 
 
 On Saturday we called on Miss Coolidge, but found her 
 out, and Saturday evening was passed for a time at an agree- 
 able soiree, held at Mrs. Mansfield's, the aunt of Mrs. King. 
 There we met many of the Cincinnati ladies whom we had not 
 yet seen, and found that they improved upon further acquaint- 
 ance. 
 
 Sunday, 29th. — We went to church with Miss C, and list- 
 ened to a very prosy sermon ; then returned with Miss C, and 
 
30 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 dined. The people here lived in as good a style, and enjoyed 
 fhe luxuries of life at a cheaper rate, than our friends at the 
 East. Afterwards, on the same evening, we again went to 
 church, and listened to a sophomoric display of pulpit eloquence, 
 which might as well have been pronounced an oration as a 
 «»ermon. 
 
^M 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 ari)aptcr Qt. 
 
 AVALNUT HILLS AND SOCIETr. 
 
 Monday, the SOth May. — As our friend Bradford had left early 
 in the morning for Lexington, and Mrs. and Miss Roberts, Mr. 
 and Miss Bolton, of New York, had departed on the Mononga- 
 hela for Pittsburgh, most of the morning was spent at home. 
 After having written some advertisements, and a letter for Mr. 
 Brown, we proceeded to call on Miss Coolidge, Miss Reeves, 
 and Mrs. Starr — all of whom were found at home. On our 
 return home, an invitation to the wedding solicits us from Mr. 
 Pugh, who^is about to marry Miss Miller, one of the most 
 beautiful girls of this city. After dinner, we spent a most 
 agreeable hour with Mr. Brown, while he unfolded the advan- 
 tages of the situation and location of that place from which he 
 hailed in Venezuela, and the opportunities which Avere then 
 afforded to an enterprising young man, for he had obtained an 
 exclusive right to navigate the rivers with steam, Avhich privi- 
 lege he had procured on releasing to the government a claim 
 which he had upon them for $30,000 ; so he has a monopoly 
 of all the trade on the rivers. A native of Massachusetts, he 
 has the shrewdness and enterprise of a Yankee, and has done 
 much, and is doing still more, to improve the condition of the 
 country. lie has sent out many machines which will be the first 
 
32 DEIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 introduced into that country by liimself. Among other things, 
 cotton-gins, spinning-machines, and one of the most important, 
 a brick-making and laying machine, which is capable of making 
 40,000 bricks a day with ease. He mentioned the price of 
 labor was $3 per month. The produce of the country are log- 
 wood, cocoa, cochineal, and sugars ; and having the sole control 
 of the navigation, he had already made a handsome fortune. 
 He also offered many strong inducements for us to come out 
 Avith him, and promised to establish us in business on our ad- 
 vancing some capital. We did not jump at his proposals, for 
 we have always been very easy about money matters, and be- 
 lieve that " a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush." About 
 5 o'clock we rode out in company with Miss Coolidge, and 
 took the river roads along on the banks of the Ohio; found the 
 country perfectly level, and highly picturesque. The roadside 
 Avas dotted with many pretty country seats ; and as sunset was 
 declining, it threw its golden hues over the landscape, which 
 added much to the beauty of the scenery, and doubly so to 
 this ride — the chief charm of which was the company of one 
 of Eve's fairest daughters. 
 
 In the evening we went to the theatre, being attracted there 
 more by the expectation of seeing some of the Cincinnati ladies 
 than by the character of the piece which was to be performed, 
 and were introduced to Miss Stewart, who is one of the beau- 
 ties of this place, and Miss Simms, and others, besides a Miss 
 Williams, who Avas also a beautiful creature. We met many 
 others of our acquaintance there, Avho had now become so 
 numerous that we began to feel quite at home in this charming 
 city. 
 
 Tuesday, May 31 — was rather a stupid day, for it rained the 
 greater part of the morning. However, it cleared off in the 
 evening, and wc were able to attend the Avedding of Mr. Pngh, 
 
FKOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 33 
 
 Avlio had been an old feilow-student witli us in the Dane Law 
 School. The bride was most lovely in her appearance, and had 
 put on one of the sweetest faces we had ever met with. The 
 beauty and talent of Cincinnati were here assembled. There 
 was no dancing, and of course the party was rather stiff", and 
 partook somewhat of the treadmill nature, which tinctures most 
 of these parties with a feature of strict propriety. Among the 
 
 beauties present were Miss Groesbeck, Miss Simms, Miss C , 
 
 and Miss Williams. Among the married to whom we paid our 
 addresses was Mrs. Marshall, and with her we spent some time 
 in comparing the different styles of the female beauty which 
 were in the panorama passing on before us. The supper was 
 in good taste, bnt partook strongly of a strawberry cast, which 
 fruit was now displayed in great profusion in the markets. 
 
 Wednesday — we called on Miss Stewart, whom we found at 
 home. She possesses more conversational power than any 
 woman here. On the whole, we were as much pleased with her 
 as with any other person in the society of this place. In the 
 evening we went to the theatre. The attractions consisted 
 chiefly in the party of ladies which attended. The perform- 
 ances were unusually disgusting and stupid. 
 
 Thursday, 2d — was a day of some importance in the city, for 
 Mr. Van Buren arrived here, and took rooms at the Dennison 
 House. His reception must have been anything but flattering 
 to him ; his escort was altogether military, and consisted of 
 about 350 persons, of whom very few persons recognized him. 
 So he has not gained much by this visit, which is considered 
 purely an electioneering tour. His own party, and even the 
 committee appointed to receive him, were heard to express 
 their dissatisfaction at this intrusion, and declared that if he 
 had stayed at home they would have given him their votes, but 
 in the present case, Calhoun w^as their candidate. No doubt 
 
 2* 
 
34 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 this lias rather shocked the refined sensibilities of Mr. Van 
 Buren. Every one, however, acknowledges his urbanity of 
 manners, and his politeness. In the evening we attended a 
 small party at Dr. Rives', the brother of the senator of that 
 name from Virginia. There were few young ladies present, 
 most of the company being married. The time passed off 
 quite sociably. This is one of the most pleasant families of 
 the city. Miss liives is a most elegantly accomplished lady 
 in licr manners and address, and would hold her position in 
 any society. We were here somewhat detained by the rain, 
 but through the courtesy of the doctor wc Avere safely conveyed 
 to our respective lodgings in his barouche. 
 
 Friday — was spent in the usual routine of calls and visits, and 
 part of the morning in writing a letter home. We had deter- 
 mined to stay until Monday, so as to be in the vicinity at the 
 denouement of the Clay Barbecue, whicb was to take place on 
 the 9th. Our house has been quite honored by the presence 
 of Lord Morpeth, who arrived yesterday from Louisville. Ilis 
 manners and address arc on a par of most of the noblemen 
 who have visited this country, and avIio seem to pride them- 
 selves on imitating the gaucheries of some of the more distin- 
 guished nobles of England. There was a party given by Mrs. 
 Groesbeck to Van Buren and Lord Morpeth, but which, owing 
 to a slight misunderstanding, we were not able to attend. The 
 company, we understand, were honored by a Dutch serenade, 
 on which occasion His Excellency Mi". Van Buren came forth, 
 and uncovered his snowy head to the multitude who were 
 standing outside on the street listening. 
 
 Saturday, June 4th — was a beautiful day, and was spent in 
 visiting the ladies, and in walking about the town. 
 
 In the evening we attended a small party at Mrs. Marshall's, 
 which was given to Lord Morpeth, but cannot say that we 
 
FKOM THE SEA TO THE SUMAIITS. 35 
 
 were altogether pleased witli the mamicr in which it was con- 
 ducted ; and in fact by this time we became pretty much sa- 
 tiated with society here, on account of its sameness, for every 
 party is conducted on the same principle of stern sobriety ; 
 they have no music to cheer one, and you are dependent 
 entirely upon conversation for amusement, and on strawberries 
 and cream for your entertaiimient. We were introduced to 
 J>Iy Lord in a most awkward manner, and shall I)y that action 
 alone have occasion to recollect the fact. All the parties here 
 rae of a perambulatory nature — a sort of fashionable peripa- 
 tetics of the promenade-concert kind — and in which walking 
 and bobbing around is practised in the most agreeable manner, 
 and where small-talk supplies the place of philosophy. The 
 ladies have generally little or no manners — the gentlemen less. 
 The latter feel their inferiority when placed in comparison with 
 a man of education, and vent their indignation and spleen in a 
 manner suitable to their ignorance. 
 
 Sunday, 5th. — Went to church with Miss Carneal, and lis- 
 tened to a good discourse from Mr. Brooks, the pastor of this 
 church. After having made a short call at this lady's house, 
 returned and dined at the hotel, and in the afternoon attended 
 divine service at Grace Church, a new Episcopal edifice, whicli 
 had been established on Seventh street. 
 
 On Monday, the 6th, we spent the morning principally in 
 making farewell visits, but found most of the ladies out ; and 
 after having visited Mr. Longworth's garden went into the 
 liouse and saw a statue which had just been sent by Hiram 
 Powers from Italy. Mr. Longworth has been the chief patron 
 of this young artist ; the bust is said to be that of Rogers' 
 " Genevieve ; " the profile is perfect, but the front face is rather 
 too stern to be in keeping with the display of that delicacy of 
 expression which is cleverly sustained in the outline ; the hair 
 
36 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 and drapery arc in the most perfect relations witli the tnitli of 
 her nature, and the whole is quite creditable to the artist, 
 "We found that Mr. Anderson is the brother of the captain 
 whom we once met at Saratoga Springs, twenty yeai's ago, and 
 after walking some time about the grounds with Mr. Long- 
 worth and daughter, we went and again saw some of Mr. 
 "Wood's drawings, then made several calls, and found Mrs. 
 Marshall, Miss Stewart, and Miss Coolidge at home. After 
 dinner Mr. Garnish, who was formerly of New York, called 
 upon us, and we were invited to ride out with his ward. Miss 
 Picketts. "We accepted the invitation, and at four o'clock, in 
 company with this primitive specimen of simplicity, rode out- 
 to Mr. Dudley's country seat, which is quite prettily situated 
 a few miles from Cincinnati, where we met many of the ladies 
 with whom we were already acquainted, and spent a most 
 delightful afternoon in strolling about the grounds. Thus the 
 time was passed quite pleasantly ; Miss Dudley and Miss Car- 
 neal enchanted the company with their singing. We shall 
 never tire of Miss C, for altogether she is the most pleasing 
 female we have met in the "West. Her manners are perfectly 
 lady-like ; and although she has received more attentions than 
 fall to the ordinary run of ladies, she bears her honors Avith 
 becoming modesty. As usual, the entertainment consisted of 
 strawberries and cream. We then took leave of our hostess, 
 and returned leisurely to the city. After depositing our fair 
 charge at her mansion, we returned to our hotel, and there 
 found an invitation for a, party which was to take place at Mrs. 
 Wiggins'. At the hour appointed we appeared, and were 
 pleased that we had accepted another call, to the most bril- 
 liant party which has been given during our stay. The rooms 
 were brilliantly lighted, the entertamment elegantly laid out, 
 tlate company select, the women especially beautitul. To the 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 37 
 
 number of my lady acquaintances Avcre added that of Miss 
 Groesbeck and Miss Frebiger. 
 
 On the 7th. — Tuesday morning was spent in taking leave of 
 the many pleasant acquaintances which had here been found. 
 Never have we found occasion to think so favorably of any 
 place as of this city. Previous to leaving, we dined Avith Mr. 
 Pomeroy, and then started soon after 4 o'clock p.m., in the 
 steamer " Boston " for Maysville. Now, in taking our depart- 
 ure, a fine chance was presented for reflections on the town, 
 the people, and our reception generally. The town itself- is 
 beautifully situated on the banks of the Ohio, and you have a fine 
 view of the city both in ascending and descending the river. 
 It is probably the most handsomely situated city in the West. 
 The houses are well constructed, and to most of them fine 
 garden lots are attaclied, which are kept in a high state of 
 cultivation, thus combining the advantages of country and city, 
 and rendering the climate quite salubrious. The people do not 
 of course possess that degree of refinement which is the con- 
 sequence of a more mature age ; but as the place becomes more 
 settled, and the population more permanent, society itself 
 will be much improved, and the people of distinction and 
 wealth Avill form select bodies by themselves. At present, the 
 character of their society is rather promiscuous, and its condi- 
 tion somewhat primitive. 
 
 We came here a stranger, with but one acquaintance, and 
 left with much regret, having formed many pleasant associa- 
 tions, and we think also a few firm friends. 
 
^^^^^^^ 
 
 ^^itm^^Siil^^^^tKM^Sti^^^m^B^S^lifiSmMists^SmS^tB^^^^^ 
 
 all)aptcr 5. 
 
 MAYSVILLE TO LOUISVILLE. 
 
 8tii. — On Wednesday morning about 3 o'clock, in company 
 with young Foote, of Cincinnati, formerly of New York, wg 
 arrived at Maysville, Kentucky, where we remained until nine 
 o'clock the next morning, Avhich rest gave us sufficient time to 
 walk about and see the town. Pleasantly situated on the river, 
 it commands a fine view of the opposite banks of the Ohio, 
 which arc quite beautiful. It contains about 2,000 inhabitants, 
 who live chiefly on the business which is here carried on in 
 the staple commodities of hemp and tobacco. The town is 
 quite healthy and the streets well shaded, but the houses have 
 an appearance of slovenliness and dirt Avhich is the character- 
 istic of most of fhe South-western cities ; and that aspect might 
 be partially attributed to their great use of the bituminous 
 coals which are indigenous to this county in particular, but 
 chiefly to their being the market-places for the .sale of slaves. 
 
 We took the coach at 9 o'clock a.m., and started on our 
 route to Lexington. The appearance of the weather ^oas 
 quite pregnant with rain, but we managed to escape its influ- 
 ence, with the exception of one short shower, which made up 
 for the shortness of its duration by the deluge of its fall, which 
 poured down by the bucketful. 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS, 39 
 
 Tlie country tb rough \Yliicli the road passes is certainly one 
 of the finest that we had yet seen; and from the richness of 
 the soil and the high state of cultivation to which the land is 
 brought, has been appropriately termed the " Garden of the 
 West." The staple products are various kinds of grain, hemp, 
 and tobacco. The labor is carried on by slaves. We dined 
 at the Blue Licks, which are quite well known as the most 
 fomous watering-place in all Kentucky. Tlie waters are of a 
 sulphurous character and taste, much like a solution of gun- 
 powder which has been diluted in water. This State probably 
 abounds with more watering-places than any other, excepting 
 Virginia. The accommodations at these Licks, so called, we 
 suppose, from their resort by the deer, are quite good ; and as 
 they have recently made extensive additions to the houses and 
 have changed the proprietors, it bids fair to attract many vis- 
 itors during the present season. The rivers around the spring 
 afford an abundance of fine fishing, and its woods abound with 
 game. 
 
 The remaining portion of the route presented no peculiar 
 attractions. Many of the villages through which we passed 
 were quite pretty, and the houses well constructed ; but when 
 placed in contrast with towns of the same size in the free States, 
 they sink into utter insignificance, for there seems to be an 
 amalgamation of dirty blacks and whites, which seems to be 
 characteristic of most of the Kentucky towns. The country 
 approaching Lexington is in a high state of cultivation, and the 
 farms quite extensive, and as they lie close along the roadside, 
 can easily be inspected. Most of the landholders have farms 
 of several hundred acres ; the tenants of smaller farms are 
 generally bought off, and their estates merged into that of the 
 wealthier proprietors. The owners of these estates live in the 
 style of noblemen, and their whole existence tends to raise 
 
40 DUIFl' THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 their ideas, and to exalt their situation from the contrast that 
 has ever existed between servitude and despotism ; up a plat- 
 form from which they hoist themselves unto an absolutism for 
 ambitious scheming, which h limited only by sublimer aspira- 
 tions to a seat in the Presidential chair. At Lexington we 
 arrived about twilight and found the town quite filled with 
 people, who, like ourselves, were assembled in expectation of 
 attending the approaching Barbecue. The hotel Avas full, and 
 we were enabled to procure a fine room at Mrs. Harper's house. 
 
 Thursday, 9th. — The grand Barbecue came off ; the weather, 
 which was at the morning overcast, soon changed into a beau- 
 tiful day ; we sallied forth soon after breakfast, took a fine view 
 of the town, and about 10 o'clock went to the College green 
 and viewed the presentation of the portrait of General Harri- 
 son, from the ladies of Ohio to the ladies of Kentucky. 
 
 About 10 o'clock A.M., the procession moved in solemn 
 style towards the scene of the Barbecue, and consisted of some 
 thousand footmen, besides 400 vehicles of every description. 
 The field chosen for the celebration of this feast was situated 
 about three-quarters of a mile from tlie edge of the town, 
 and very well adapted for the occasion. About 12 o'clock m., 
 the road approaching this place which had been selected 
 for the collation was filled with people, some on foot, others in 
 carriages, all urging forward under the influence of an intense 
 mid-day heat. Having reached the ground, much of our time 
 was spent in viewing the preparations and arrangements which 
 were made for the occasion ; and our attention was especially 
 attracted towards the novel style of the cookery which is usual, 
 and in flict, constitutes part of a regular Barbecue, and it certain- 
 ly seemed quite novel, although rather a little disgusting. Seve- 
 ral long trenches were dug a depth of from two to two and a 
 half feet in the ground. In these fires were made, and the wood 
 
FU031 THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 41 
 
 burnt until reduced to a live coal, the heat of wliicli was aftcr- 
 Avards kept up by a fresli supply of charcoal. The various 
 meats, consisting of pork, veal, lamb, and mutton, and even 
 entire animals, were suspended over these ditches by a long 
 wooden skewer, as a spit, which ran through the hind and fore- 
 quarters ii la poulct when prepared for a roast. 
 
 At fixed distances black knights of the kitchen were sta- 
 tioned, whose office it was to superintend the roasting, and to 
 guard the meats from being over-burnt, which they easily 
 effected by continual application of the swab-stick and sprinkle 
 of flour, a mode of basting quite novel, to be sure, but certainly 
 in keeping with the pit-ott'crings which were then being pre- 
 pared. Notwithstanding the uncouth appearance of the meats 
 and the revolution of the carcases occasioned by the necessity 
 of keeping the meats constantly turning, from fear of spoiling 
 the food by the smoke, ashes, and dirt, these meats were 
 exceedingly palatable to the taste ; and the sudden manner in 
 which several hundreds of animals disappeared is sufficient 
 evidence of their being well relished. About one o'clock the 
 alarum for dinner was sounded, and the procession, giving the 
 precedence to the severil delegates from the sister States, 
 moved onward to the general onslaught. Fair women and 
 brave men applied themselves lustily to the work before them, 
 for there was no lack of appetites or good spirits. The knives 
 were busily employed in cutting what the forks conveyed to 
 their destined throats. The usual jokes as well as joints were 
 cracked; there was a great clatter of dishes, and in the short 
 space of half an hour the devouring pestilence of 1,200 appe- 
 tites had swept over the board, and not a Avreck was left 
 behind. After the dinner was over the people moved away 
 from the tables — which had been arranfjed in a lonff line across 
 the tiekl, and covered with pine boards, that had been laid on 
 
42 nUTFT THOUGHTS — AVIDE APART. 
 
 the tops of ciupty barrels — to tlie platform, from whence the 
 toasts Avere expected to be given out, and after the usual sen- 
 timents had been delivered and responded to, Mr. Clay arose 
 in reply to the last, in which he had been highly complimented. 
 Ue began his speech in one of the most brilliant strains of elo- 
 quence we have ever listened to ; for it was like the sudden 
 flash of the lightning in the summer sky, equally beautiful and 
 unexpected. He continued to speak for two and a half hours, 
 during which time he gave a slight and hasty sketch of his 
 own biography during the last session of Congress, and then 
 turned the course of his remarks towards the present unfor- 
 tunate condition of our country, mentioning the causes, which 
 he attributed not only to the mania of speculation which had 
 stalked abroad over the land, but to several unjudicious acts 
 which had been passed during the administration of Jackson. 
 His conclusion was quite happy and well conceived, Avith a 
 powerful description of the present state of the Whig party, and 
 then sat down amid the deafening shouts of his thousand 
 admirers. His voice Avas at once pleasing and manly, clear and 
 sonorous ; it Avas marked Avith the emphatic force of his ges- 
 tures, Avhicli Avcre a^^propriate, and seemed to send out his 
 words to the hearts of his hearers. The crowd dispersed very 
 quietly, and the road Avas soon crammed with the multitude 
 Avho passed in vehicles and on foot. No accident of any im- 
 portance occurred to mar the pleasure of this festival, and the 
 day was spent to the satisfaction of all. After tea, as Ave Avere 
 returning to our rooms, we were introduced to Mr. and INIrs. 
 Thomas Smith, of Avhom we had heard a great deal to her 
 praise when Ave Avere at Cincinnati. She is an agreeable con- 
 versing Avoman, had travelled much, and Avas quite easy in her 
 address. As to him, Ave pass him over by calling him simply 
 an epicurean. 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 43 
 
 Friday lOtb. — x\fter an obscure morning, the day came forth 
 bright and clear. In company with Mr. J. J. Foote, of Cincin- 
 nati, we proceeded to call on Mr. Clay at his residence, and 
 Avhile there, spent most of the morning in looking about the 
 farm, and viewing the fine stock of blooded cattle ; but, unfor- 
 tunately, we did not find the lion at home. In the afternoon, 
 Avc took our leave of Lexington, and started for Frankfort. 
 We arrived there about sunset. It is beautifully situated in a val- 
 ley, and is the most beautiful town in Kentucky. It is the seat 
 of government, and contains a very chaste and neat State House. 
 The houses are neat and quite comfortable. The Kentucky 
 river runs through the town, and adds much to the romance of 
 its appearance. AVhile there we had the pleasure of conversing 
 with the present Governor Letcher, who was a fine man, and 
 quite humorous in his way ; and in the morning following, called 
 again upon him, and spent an agreeable hour with him in a 
 conversation about many matters of interest concerning his 
 State. 
 
 On Saturday moiiiing of the 11th, we started from Louis 
 ville ; but no event occurred during the day which was worthy 
 of note, and arrived at Louisville in the evening. The approach 
 to the town is quite beautiful, and the country in the vicinity 
 in a good state of cultivation. This section of the country is 
 not so interesting as that in the vicinity of Lexington. 
 
 On Sunday morning, the 12th, Mr. Foote left for Cinciimati. 
 In the afternoon, attended meeting, and heard one of the most 
 singular discourses we have ever listened to ; and after church 
 called on our classmate, Mr. Snead, and found that he had just 
 leturned from a collecting tour. 
 
 On the 13th, spent the morning in visiting the town, in com- 
 pany with Mr. Charles Snead. Among other buildings, avc 
 entered the court-house, which is the finest building for this 
 
44 DRIFT THOUGHTS — %VIDK APAKT. 
 
 purpose in the United States, and -svliile there ascended to the 
 to]) of the dome, and took a comprehensive view, which ex- 
 tended over the entire city, as the whole country about Louis- 
 ville is quite flat. Our view embraced a circumference of many 
 miles. We then made a call on the Misses Raphael, sisters of 
 our friend Mr. Snead, then returned and took dinner with our 
 classmate at his residence, where we .saw his wife for the first 
 time. After dinner, we inspected the small infant who was the 
 first prominent claimant for a cradle from our class of '39 at 
 Harvard. In the afternoon, we rode out with Snead, and fol- 
 lowed the banks of the Ohio by one of the most beautiful 
 bridle-paths in the vicinity of this locality. The road passed 
 along the banks, having the river always in view, whilst in many 
 places the wide-spreading, dark-leaved beach-trees so oversha- 
 dowed its path, that in many places they formed a perfect 
 archway under the thick branches. 
 
 On Tuesday, the 14th, during the morning, in company with 
 the Misses Raphael, called on Miss Smith, whom we found at 
 home. This visit gave us a fine opportunity of examining the 
 finest house in the city ; for it was, in fact, one of the finest 
 private mansions in this country. It was planned and built 
 entirely under the supervision of Mrs. S., and reflected much 
 credit on her excellent taste. We then called on Mrs, Shreeve, 
 who lived in the next best house in the city. Shortly after this 
 call, we had a fine opportunity of viewing the Congregational 
 church, Avhich is one of the best specimens of the Gothic in 
 church architecture ; but unfortunately the interior was not in 
 strict keeping with the exterior. 
 
 We then dined with friend Snead; and afterwards, in com- 
 pany with the Misses Raphael, Gawthncy, and Thomas, together 
 with Messrs. Mead and Kennedy of St. Louis, Mr. Kelly of 
 Pittsburg, and Mr. Lebrcton of New Orleans, went across the 
 
FKOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 45 
 
 Ohio river to tlie JcfFersonvillc Springs, on the Indiana side, 
 where the afternoon was quite agreeably spent in walking about 
 the grounds and in carrying out some flirtations with the young 
 ladies. 
 
 On Wednesday, loth, we spent most of the morning at Mr. 
 Snead's store, and read the trial of Monroe Edwards; then 
 made one call, and became acquainted Avith Mr. Johnson. In 
 the afternoon rode out with Miss A. Raphael. 
 
 On Thursday, the 16th, wrote home, and afterwards became 
 acquainted with the Misses Crawford and Throckmorton, and 
 by the latter was invited, through Mr. Kennedy, to attend a 
 small party in honor of her birthday. Evening came on, and we 
 were astonished to find that the company did not assemble until 
 after 11 o'clock. So wo passed the long interval before this 
 time very patiently waiting the arrival of her guests ; but we 
 end'j.red the delay very pleasantly, and when the occasion fairly 
 opened with a ball, it afforded us an opportunity which was 
 readily seized, to become acquainted with Misses Jacobs, Grif- 
 fin, and Knight, in whose delightful company we alternated 
 betwixt the giddy pleasures of the dance, and the fascination 
 of their charming conversation. 
 
 Now, on the l7th, we spent the day in waiting for a boat, in 
 order to be conveyed to St. Louis. None came, however, on 
 that day, nor were any expected until Sunday. So this even- 
 ing was rather stupidly spent in the parlor of our landlord's 
 hotel. 
 
 On the 18th we saw the Kentucky Giant, Avho stands V feet 
 8 inches in his shoes. He was a portly man indeed, whose 
 name was Porter, whose business was enhanced by the sympa- 
 thy which his stammering enlisted from his customers at the 
 bar, besides which he acted as keeper of the locks of the 
 canal at Portland, and as receiver of the tolls. After seeing 
 
46 DRIFr THOUGHTS ^WIDE APART. 
 
 this prodigy, we called on Mrs. Smitb, who allowed us to obtain 
 a plan of her house, and in the afternoon we rode out with Mr. 
 Kennedy, and made a call on Mrs. Duncan, who resided out of 
 town, where we visited her handsome estate with its conserva- 
 tory, which is said to be the most highly improved, and in 
 fact the only cultivated country-seat in the vicinity of the city 
 — and having found Madam at home, and disposed to be quite 
 communicative, and delightful in conversation, we soon dis- 
 covered that she was formerly a Miss Shipley, of Boston — and 
 after we had obtained some choice bouquets from her green- 
 house, we took them with us, in order that they might be duly 
 presented to the fair ladies whose acquaintance in the city we 
 had already made. 
 
 On Sunday, the 19th, we went to church in the morning, and 
 in the afternoon bid adieu to our friends, took a hack, and 
 rode to Portland in time for the New Orleans boat, which was 
 bound for St. Louis. Here wc again met the giant, who was 
 doing double duty at the locks, and at the same time officiat- 
 ing at the bar. P'rom whence, at a quarter past six o'clock 
 P.M., we left Portland for St. Louis. 
 
€l)aptcv fi. 
 
 BOUND FOR ST. LOUIS. 
 
 On board tins steamboat we met Mr. Stanliope, an EnglisLindii; 
 who proved to be a very intelligent and agreeable person, with 
 whom we spent many pleasant hours in conversation about the 
 scenery of England, etc. lie showed a quality of good sense 
 which is uncommon among the crowds of foreigners who travel 
 through this country; and he seemed satisfied with what b' 
 saw, was willing to take things as lie found them, and very littic 
 disposed to find fault. Among the other passengers were a 
 Mr. Barrow, Dr. Zabriskie of New York, both of whom con- 
 tributed much towards the pleasure of our trip. We had 
 a delightful sail down the Ohio, for the accommodations of 
 the boat were excellent, the captain civil, and the weather 
 uncommonly fine. The presence of a fine moonlight added 
 much to the beauty of the scenery. Evansville was one 
 of the principal towns which we passed on the Avay to the 
 city of Cairo, while on Tuesday afternoon we stopped at the 
 Shawnee town, which had once been the famous seat of a cele- 
 brated banker, who established there a manufactory for shin-plas- 
 ters, and started a " wild-cat " bank, which is Avell remembered 
 in the financiering history of this country. Early in the morning 
 
48 DUIFT THOUGHTS "WIDE APART. 
 
 we arrived at Cairo, a small village with an immense hotel, which 
 is situated at the junction of the Ohio and the Mississippi 
 River. The meeting of these waters at this place was quite ap- 
 parent from a long distance before we reached it, for the muddy 
 waters of the latter boil up and form distinct, bubbling globules 
 of turmoil in the Ohio. The waters of the Mississippi are quite 
 yellow, chalky and milky, having been rendered murky, and thus 
 discolored by the large quantities of sands which are brought down 
 and discharged from the thick diluvial soil of the remote and ever- 
 shifting waters of the Missouri, Now oui sluggish passage up the 
 river, which had consumed very nearly a day, was effected quite 
 seriously and slowly, for the current Avas very rapid and strong, 
 against which the boat had to struggle hard, so that we could 
 not run more than seven miles per hour. The scenery up the river 
 was in many places quite picturesque, and in some spots 
 very romantic in the extreme, especially at Cape Girardeau, 
 near the point of the "Tower Rocks," which frown over one of 
 the peculiarly interesting portions of the Mississippi river, the 
 banks of Avhich alternate in bluffs and prairies; white limestone 
 is the prevailing formation among the cliffs, and in many places 
 juts its yellow bright strata out from the ledges, and appears 
 in very bold and rugged shapes and crags. 
 
 On the 22d we arrived at St. Louis about 10 a.m., and 
 on "Wednesday we soon learned there that the '* General 
 Brooks " was about to start on her trip up to the Falls of St. 
 Anthony, with a cargo of Government supplies for the Indians. 
 AVe were not able to spend much time at this place. Ho\v- 
 ever, we had the pleasure of seeing our old schoolmates, 
 Cabanne and Berthold, and after calling at the Fur Company's 
 office, found a letter from home, also one from Mr. Foote of 
 Cincinnati. 
 
 On Wednesday, the 22(.1, we started on the steamboat "Gen- 
 
PROM THE SEA TO THE SDMMITS. ' 49 
 
 eral Brooks" for the Falls of St. Antliony, and had the good luck 
 of finding an excellent state-room, and meeting the Wards and 
 Bradford on board. The rain poured incessantly, and the 
 weather had the appearance of a continued storm. In the 
 afternoon we passed the mouth of the Missouri river, where 
 the appearance of the waters was quite muddy, and boiled up 
 mixed with particles of sand. The immense extent of the 
 waters of the Missouri cannot be duly estimated, as it is inter- 
 sected by an island, which is formed a short distance above this 
 point. We passed by Alton about four p.m., a place of con- 
 siderable importance, and noted as the scene of a remarkable 
 abolition riot, and for the beautiful condition of its Penitentiary. 
 Now, Thursday, the 1 8th, was quite an important day with us, 
 as being the 21st anniversary of our life. It passed off quite 
 quietly, even without the honour of a toast. The day was 
 cloudy and misty, and an agreeable change from the intense 
 heat of yesterday. The scenery was quite beautiful and 
 romantic. The limestone formations on the Illinois side were 
 quite artificial at times, and for several rods assuming the forms 
 of turrets, bastions, and other singular constructions. 
 
 On the 24th, we passed the first rapids, and in the afternoon 
 arrived at the city of Naiivoo. It is beautifully located on the 
 Illinois side, and reflects much credit on Joe Smith's judg- 
 ment. The houses are situated at short distances from each 
 other, in order to conform to the strictness of the letter of the 
 Scriptures, where those who join house to house are condemned. 
 Tliere are 12,000 inhabitants in this place, and all have, or wear, 
 an air of laziness, which is peculiarly fitted for a latter-day saint. 
 In company with some of the passengers, we went to see the 
 Temple, which is still unfinished, and will probably take years 
 to complete it. Several of the party visited Joe Smith, and 
 came back well stored with racy information relating to his re- 
 
 3 
 
50 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 ligious discipline. Every word of tliis prophet was pregnant 
 with a mixture of policy and shrewdness, that display the char- 
 acteristic traits of the man. 
 
 AVe passed some very beautiful scenery after we left Nauvoo. 
 The view up the Rock river was one of the prettiest we have 
 seen, as it furnishes a striking picture in its resemblance to a 
 beautiful lake on Avhich the islands Avith which the river abounds 
 are enlivened by their massive garments of foliage which dis- 
 play their rich delicious green in vestments of the brightest hues 
 that are as if girdled with heavy belts of velvety moss. The 
 scenery now began to assume a more interesting character and 
 was less monotonous. We passed many pretty towns beauti- 
 fujly situated on the banks of the river, among which, -worthy 
 of mention, were Alton, which was once so celebrated as the 
 scene of a terrible abolition riot, and now a place of some im- 
 portance ; and Quincy, one of the prettiest towns on the river, 
 which was built up entirely at the time when the Great Illinois 
 Railroad was first in contemplation, and then became one of 
 the many follies which would have brought the State into per- 
 manent and bonded deht. Bloomington is also anotlicr taste- 
 ful town ; while the situation of Davenport is not equalled by any 
 other settlement on the river. At this place the rivers are 
 hemmed in by their many islands, and the hills beyond seemed 
 like a lake exposing its broad bosom. The town has been 
 mostly built by the exertions of a half Indian, who is at present 
 the most influential man in the place. The fort which had been 
 built here with its high walls that had been erected opposite 
 this town, is situated on a basis of rocky limestone on which 
 the whole island rests, and adds much to the beauty of the pros- 
 pect. Immediately across the river on the east of the town is 
 the former site of Black Hawk's hamlet. We left this place 
 quite early on Sunday moi-ning and ascended the rapids, which 
 
FROM THK SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 51 
 
 begiu here and extend about twenty miles. In the evening we 
 found ourselves at Galena, where we remained until 12 p.m., 
 which gave us an opportunity of writing home. The brightness 
 of the moon enabled us to visit the town, and we strolled about 
 the place, until we sat down to rest on top of a high bluff which 
 commanded a beautiful view of the city. Fever river extended 
 its silvery streams along the ravines which ran under the shad- 
 ows of the mountain's brow. As we were favored by the 
 moonlight, we were enabled to travel all night; and thus our 
 trip was much shortened and rendered less tedious than it 
 would have been from its absence. From Galena we proceeded 
 up the river to Dubuque, which is a place of some importance 
 on account of the product from its mines. As we passed up 
 we saw the monument which has been erected to its founder — 
 a simple, chaste tombstone, surmounted by a white cross. 
 
 We arrived at Prairie du Chien about 6 p.m., on Monday, 
 and were much pleased with the location of the town. It is 
 well known as a trading place, and in the fall of the year con- 
 siderable traffic is carried on with the various tribes of Indians, 
 who come here for that purpose. The traders are mostly 
 French, many of whom have intermarried with the Indians. 
 Generally they are a mean and degraded class, and seize 
 every occasion to benefit themselves, by taking advantage of 
 the ignorance of the Indians. AVe saw a few of the various 
 tribes of the Indians which inhabited the wilds in the vicinity, 
 but they afforded us no criterion by which one might judge 
 of their real character. Those seen by us were much ener 
 vatcd by their intercourse with the whites, and had nothing pe- 
 culiar to their race ; they are degi"aded, miserable, poor, and the 
 whites are fast destroying the little remnant of them which is 
 still existing, by allowing them a too free use of bad whiskey, 
 for which they have a most singular predilection. 
 
52 DRIFT THOUGHTS — AVIDE APART. 
 
 Early on Tuesday, in company with Bradford and two of our 
 part}', we crossed over the river in a canoe that was paddled by 
 some Indians, one of whom was the best specimen of his race 
 we have ever seen ; for he was robust, finely formed, and re- 
 tained the characteristic features of his race. On reaching the 
 shore, we took a sketch of the scene before us, which was per- 
 fectly charming and fully equalled our ideas of the island homes 
 of the red man. The river here, and even above this point and 
 as far as the " Falls," was so studded with islands that it was 
 impossible to see across it. We then ascended a very high 
 hill in the vicinity, and obtained a fine comprehensive view of 
 the river and town which was situated on the opposite banks. 
 We left this place about 10 o'clock, a.m., and on board found 
 a most agreeable addition to our party in the persons of Colo- 
 nel Davenport and his lady, both of whom we had met in the 
 summer of 1840 at Saratoga. The meeting was as happy as 
 it was unexjiccted, and the pleasure was much enhanced by the 
 politeness of the colonel, who had brought on board a fine 
 band of Gennan musicians. This aftbrded us a rich treat of ex- 
 cellent music during the remainder of the trip, and helped us 
 to while away the evenings which before had passed rather 
 heavily on our hands. 
 
 We consumed two days in passing up the river to St. Peters, 
 during which interval our attention was entirely engrossed in the 
 beauty of the scenery, which surpassed any that we had ever 
 beheld. To attempt an adequate description in words, would be 
 futile ; let it suflSce that we contemplate the effects of the finest 
 prospects, when seen from some of the most striking points. 
 The river itself is constantly changing in form and expression. 
 Each stroke of the oars forward brought in sight some new 
 scene before the eye, and the landscapes were constantly shift- 
 ing and varied by the interspersion of a thousand isles, whicl) 
 
FKOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 63 
 
 were now lighted up by the golden beams of tlie sun, and 
 reflecting their images over the clear face of the river, became 
 again most beautifully relieved by their deep rich shadows, 
 which mottled the waters ; and while the sunbeams gilt the 
 mountain tops from a thousand inlets, streams of Vibutary 
 brooks babbled through the ravines at the mountain's side, and 
 delighted to pour their contents into their guardian-supporting 
 reservoirs of the parental Mississippi — the Father of Waters ; 
 whilst the rich glowing verdure of their banks, and the fresh- 
 ness of the foliage which shades them, form pictures of retired 
 retreats alongside the buttresses of rock-crowned bluffs on which 
 the eye delights to dwell, and wherein the imagination would 
 seek for its miisings, amid the fairy's grotto of the caves. Again, 
 the strong barriers of rocky ridges and a thousand pretty 
 hills, pencil their graceful outlines against the sky, while at 
 their base the noble river bathes the soft grasses which border 
 its margin. A constant succession of undulating hills marks 
 the course of the stream as far as the eye can reach ; whilst 
 shadow and shade chase the sunbeams o'er hills and dales, and 
 the Avhole prospect displays the most pleasing variety of fleet- 
 ing images. Eich green farms at times fringe the bordering 
 plains up to the river's edge, and then unfold their glowing 
 garments with verdure like a carpet, which rolls back its 
 sweeping line of exquisite beauty in shrubs and trees, as far as 
 the horizon. At times, one uninterrupted surface of the most, 
 delicious green rolls out its length to the extent of miles; and 
 again the same land, covered with the most delightful pasture 
 of rich verdure, and shadowed by the occasional groups of 
 thick foliage, mixed with a few scattering forest trees, recede 
 with the most graceful modulations, until they mark the limits 
 of their boundaries, while they define the landscape with their 
 graceful curvetting, and until they gradually disappear in one 
 
54 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APAIIT. 
 
 vaibt sheet of grass, and extend themselves as far as the eye can 
 reach. And when the winds Avaft the breezes o'er, the whole 
 plain seems like a sea of emerald beauty, tossed in gracefii. 
 surf, like the crests of the ocean waves kissed by the zephyrs. 
 As a whole, it surpasses all we have ever seen in landscape. 
 Here Nature seems to have poured forth a profusion of favors, 
 and has shown herself in all varieties imaginable. The most 
 perfect specimens of the sublime are seen in the high bluffs 
 which frowned down from their exalted tops, and cast their 
 shadows far into the bosom of the Avaters beneath you ; and as 
 they shoot up perpendicularly, it seems as if they were but 
 the freaks of her will to show her contempt for the handiwork 
 of man. The utmost beauty is diffused over all portions of 
 her work, in the rich verdure of these prairies, the deep blue 
 sky above, and the reflected image of that sky and the moun- 
 tains in the beauteous stillness of the river ; there is a grandeur, 
 a magnificence, in all, Avhich defies description, — a beauty unsur- 
 passed by naught in the world besides ; and as the mind contem- 
 plates the nature of the scene before it, it cannot but be filled 
 with those sentiments of awe and sublimity which are the attri- 
 butes of that Being who first brought all things into life, when 
 He first pronounced, " * Let there be light,' and there was light." 
 
■uMiyi' ' 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 ^S 
 
 M 
 
 ^^ 
 
 
 ?^^^S 
 
 
 ^^1^^^ 
 
 ?Otf 
 
 I^^^M 
 
 
 iA^Sti 
 
 
 ►^^5^5^^ 
 
 li^n^ 
 
 ^^t^^ 
 
 <!II)aptcr 7. 
 
 LEGENDS AND Lx\KES ON THE MISSISSIPPI. 
 
 About the hour of sunset on Wednesday, we reached Lake 
 Pepin, a most singular piece of water, and no probable cause 
 has yet been assigned for its origin at the peculiar point of its 
 existence as a body of water. We venture to suggest, that this 
 might possibly have been the lake in which the Mississippi 
 took its origin, as Lake Itasca is at present, but that in the 
 course of time the many tributaries from above found their 
 course and discharged themselves into this lake, thus uniting 
 in one great stream. The scenery about there is quite beauti- 
 ful ; and as the sun declined and cast its own rosy hue on the 
 waves which fluttered in a dubious twilight, and the hills cast 
 their dark shadows o'er its flice, it assumed a most enchanting 
 appearance. While here, we all Avent on shore, to gather 
 agates and cornelians which are sometimes found here possess- 
 ing great beauty. It was quite amusing to see the gentlemen, 
 some resting on their haunches, and others on all-fours, in 
 search for these stones ; and as some were diggers of stones and 
 others hewers of Avood, all might appropriately be termed 
 
56 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 squatters on the premises, which did not properly belong tc 
 them, inasmuch as the original proprietors were the aboriginal 
 Indians of this continent. 
 
 Just after we had passed through Lake Pepin, and by the 
 flickering light wliich stilled lingered on the earth, we saw some 
 very high and grand bluffs which attracted particular notice 
 from the abrupt manner in Avhich they rose from the water. 
 The most precipitous is " the Lovers," and is associated witli 
 the following legend. 
 
 A daughter of a Sioux chief had been long betrothed to a 
 young Avarrior of her own tribe. Her father was averse to 
 the match, and, from motives of policy, insisted upon her mar- 
 riage Avith a hostile chief, with whom they had been at war, in 
 order to confirm the treaty of peace. The lover was then ab- 
 sent, and w^as exj^ected to return on the eve of the marriage. 
 The chief swore that it was neccessary that his purposes should 
 be carried out, and determined to slay the warrior at his re- 
 turn. The hour of the ceremony came, and all the friends as- 
 sembled on a high bluff" to attend at the nuptials, Avhen, just at 
 the point of morning, the bride saw the canoe bearing her lover 
 approach, and she rushed with the swiftness of lightning to 
 warn him of his attempting danger ; but, alas ! all her signs were 
 in vain, and her looks and gestures which bade him shun the 
 shore, were mistaken by him as tokens of recognizance and 
 of welcome. He hurried onward, and as he neared the shore 
 the swift arrow of the chieftain wended its way to his heart, 
 and his paddle dropped idly by his side. Despair and distrac- 
 tion seized the maid at the sight of her lover, and with a bound 
 she flew like an arrow to the brow of the cliff" before her, and 
 with a leap plunged into the abyss of the dark waters. The 
 same water closed over the lover and the loved, and the silence 
 of the parent was but too expressive of the grief he felt. 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 67 
 
 N. B. — We are indebted to Mrs. Col. Davenport for tLo 
 tale, to Avliom it was narrated by tbe grandfather of the girl. 
 
 Farther up, the scenery becomes more grand ; the bluffs are 
 commanding, and luany of them variously marked with a 
 richly colored limestone, which is most enlivened by the sur- 
 rounding foliage. The most charming of these hills are those 
 called the " Three Sisters," consisting of several beautiful bluffs, 
 and, capped by the above stone, they have that appearance of 
 castle-turrets which they present in approaching the " Twins," 
 which is one of the finest on the river. Another remarkable 
 one is that which from its shape may be appropriately called 
 the " Sugar Loaf Mount," — and the peculiarity of its shape 
 adds much to the beauty of the surrounding country. These 
 are but a few of the many thousand hills which stand like sen- 
 tinels over the INIississippi. Besides the intrinsic beauty of the 
 country, the power of association has added much in throwing 
 a charm around many of the spots. During the last Indian 
 struggle this portion of the country was the scene of many bat- 
 tles, and the battle grounds are still pointed out to the passing 
 stranger. As our captain had himself been engaged in the 
 service of the government at that time, it was quite interesting 
 to listen to his personal narration, and observe the situation of 
 a former battle. The two most important were those where 
 the battle of " Bad Axe " was fought, and a plain in Wisconsin 
 where the Chippeways had more recently made an attack on 
 the Sioux, whom they surprised after a feast, and succeeded 
 in capturing several of them. The conflicts between the two 
 nations are quite frequent, and as they result from a hereditary 
 feud, bid fair to be repeated until the final extermination of 
 cither race. We passed several Indian villages, among which 
 were those of the "Little Crows," and Wahtouka's, who is the 
 chief of the Sioux. As we passed the former, we had a;i op 
 
 3* 
 
58 DKIFT TIIOUGIITS WIDE APAKT. 
 
 portunity of observing their mode of burial. Their corpses 
 are wrapped and embalmed in cloths and herbs, and then sus- 
 pended aloft, and held in the branches of the trees. Whether 
 this is the permanent jilace of their exposure, or whether it 
 lasts only during a short period of lustration, we were not 
 able to discover. About 12 o'clock on ThursdajJ^, Ave arrived 
 at St. Peter's, and were much pleased with the situation of Fort 
 Snelling on a high bluff, commanding an extensive view of the 
 river St. Peter, and its confluence with the Mississippi in front 
 and the rear, embracing a prairie which stretches to the distance 
 of many miles. Here we spent the rest of the afternoon in 
 walking and seeing the Indians who had assembled in expecta- 
 tion of receiving their annuity. They bore generally a fine 
 form and figure, and seemed a shrewd set of men. AVe pur- 
 chased a bow and quiver of one of them. 
 
 Friday, the 1st day of July, was fixed upon for our visit to 
 the falls. Through the politeness of the Colonel, vehicles were 
 provided, and we had uo difiiculty in reaching the falls. Our 
 ride extended through the prairies, and over a firm and well- 
 trodden path. On the way, we stopped a few moments to view 
 the " Little Falls,'' which are far more picturesque than those 
 of St. Anthony, We stopped but a moment, during which 
 it was impossible to sketch them. About 1 1 o'clock we reached 
 the Falls, and descended so as to be able to have a favorable 
 view of them from below, and were agreeably disappointed in 
 finding that they surpassed our expectations. There is a wild- 
 ness, rapidness, and unbridled fury in the dashing of their spray 
 over the rocks, Avhich was exciting in the extreme. Immense, 
 huge and broken masses of rock lie beneath, which must have 
 required the united force of the whirlwind and the torrent to 
 have hurled them into their present position. The most favor- 
 able point whence to view these falls is situated about half a 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 69 
 
 mile below, on a bluff Avliicli overlooks the rapids, at which 
 position you command the two falls at once, which are to be 
 seen where they are divided by an island. This view is cer- 
 tainly the most picturesque and beautiful, whereas the one 
 which is presented near the foot of the falls is far less scenic ; 
 but few are more adapted to excite a feeling of the sublime and 
 grand. On the whole, they forni a pretty drop-scene to the 
 effect of a summer trip, and fill up the landscape of one's 
 travels with as pretty a background as can be possibly wished. 
 After having exhausted the beauty of the surrounding country, 
 and feasted the eye and imagination, we returned to the house 
 where we had left our horses, fully prepared to enter into the 
 merits of a bounteous store of provisions, which had been pre- 
 pared for the body. There we found the whole party assem- 
 bled, besides several gentlemen from the garrison, and a Miss 
 Steele, the most beautiful natural idealist that had been pre- 
 sented to our eyes since our departure from Cincinnati ; we 
 were introduced, and found her an interesting young lady, quite 
 animated and energetic in her remarks. However, we saw her 
 there but a few moments — it grieves us that we may never see 
 her again — and we thought as the party broke up and each re- 
 turned to his respective quarters, that a day-dream had been 
 trifling with our fancy, and that a Aasion of peerless beauty had 
 flitted over the horizon, and had vanished just as we were going 
 to grasp it. Thus is the tantalizing nature of short friendship. 
 Perhaps, if longer, the romance would have vanished, and the 
 bright creature of our imagination might have lost its beauty 
 under the cold regard of reality. Thus ever we form evanes- 
 cent i-ainbows in the delusive mists of our fitful fancies ; born in 
 an hour of mirth and happiness, nourished by the warmest beams 
 of our own sunlight, they vanish when that light becomes too 
 clear, and the vapor of our imaginings has hardened lis into 
 
60 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APAKT. 
 
 indifference, and when that heat might have ripened into 
 love. 
 
 Thus ended the last day of our stay at Fort Snelling, the 
 last point of our journey — the last point in the past where my 
 mind will love to dwell. Our whole trip has been one of un- 
 mingled pleasure. Everything has contributed to favor us, 
 and we shall always look back to our visit to the Falls of St. 
 Anthony as one of the green spots in the desert of life, where 
 the mind will love to rest itself, under the shadow of its memo- 
 ries, and in the coolness of reflection invoke the fragrant in- 
 cense of past dreams for our perpetual musing ; and as we chew 
 our quid of sweet and bitter fancies will solace ourselves in the 
 memory thereof, and slumber over its I'eminisccnscs. 
 
ail)aptn* S. 
 
 FORT SNELLING— ST. ANTHONY'S FALLS. 
 
 After we had left the Fort and its pleasant officers and their 
 families, \vc started on our return homeward about six o'clock, 
 but had a most gloomy day for our departure ; however, it was 
 soon relieved by the prospect of a brighter morrow. In the 
 afternoon we had a fine opportunity of seeing a Buffalo dance 
 at the settlement of Wahtouka. The dance was quite a novel 
 exhibition of Indian activity and a queer mixture of discordant 
 sounds and hidious contortions. We found that a missionary 
 school had been established at this place, with the intention of 
 educating the Indians, and also learnt that there was a degree 
 of unwillingness on the part of some of the families that their 
 children should be instructed at all. We passed from thence 
 through Lake Pepin, in doing which we were favored by the 
 politeness of the captain, who went somewhat out of his direct 
 course to oblige us, so that we had also an opportunity of see- 
 ing Lake St. Croix, a fine little sheet of water, which some- 
 what resembles Lake Pepin in the character of its scenery. 
 
 The next Sunday turned out to be a most delightful one, 
 and the scenery which wc passed on that day was beyond 
 
62 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APAET. 
 
 description from tlie effect of the rosy morning light on the 
 landscape, while the bright sunlight -which Tvas throwing its 
 golden richness over the hill-tops, suggested to our mind, while 
 we were refreshed by its dawning light, a brilliant and beauti- 
 ful analogy to the happiness of a joyous and exuberant youth. 
 So the whole aspect of this scenery continued equally interest- 
 ing and attractive as far as Prairie du Chien, where we arrived 
 about four o'clock p.m. At this place we took leave of Mrs. 
 Colonel Davenport, whose society had furnished a most agree- 
 able acquisition to the store of our pleasure, and we remained 
 here until — 
 
 Monday, July 4th, when we proceeded down stream towards 
 Dubuque. This being the anniversary of our Independence, 
 the day was duly celebrated, and the sociability of the tabic 
 somewhat protracted. We passed up the sluice of a narrow 
 creek to Snake diggings, in order to procure some lead, but 
 finding that the inhabitants were as equally intent as ourselves 
 on conmiemorating the day, we backed out of the diggings 
 and rounded the boat by her head, and then moved her prow 
 to a landing on the banks of tlie river. 
 
 At Dubuque wc arrived about sunset, in time to hear the 
 evening salute fired, and then proceeded on our way to Galena, 
 where we arrived at about seven a.m. 
 
 The greater portion of Tuesday was spent there, whilst we 
 took advantage of our stay to visit the lead mines in the 
 vicinity, and were much pleased with the appearance of the 
 country through which we passed; where we were able to 
 procure a few rich specimens of lead ore, which is of the best 
 quality, and yields often something about seventy-five per cent. 
 
 At this place we were obliged to take leave of some of our 
 friends, who took a stage across the country to Chicago. At 
 the Lower Rapids we were detained several hours on account 
 
FROM TEIE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 63 
 
 of the Avind, whicli blew so violently that it was impossible 
 to see the channel of the stream. During our stay here, we 
 were enabled to obtain some fine specimens of the quartz 
 boulders which were found here in great abundance. There is 
 a large quarry in the neighborhood of this place, which yields 
 a finely crystallized marble. 
 
 From thence Ave proceeded ouAvard to our destination, at 
 
 ST. LOUIS— THE MOUND CITY, 
 
 Avhere we arrived without any other circumstances occuri'ing 
 Avhlch are Avorthy of note, on Friday, the 8th, about four 
 o'clock P.M., and put up at the Planters' House, Avhich is con- 
 sidered in every respect equal to the Astor, Here we met our 
 former schoolmates, Berthold and Cabanne, and in the evening 
 attended a small party, Avhere Ave passed the time very pleas- 
 antly. Of the society here Ave could not form any correct 
 opinion, not having had sufficient opportunities to mature onr 
 judgments. 
 
 On our first Sunday which was passed at this place, Ave heard 
 the llev. Mr. Pcake, Avho Avas established here as an Episcopal 
 clergyman, and Avere pleased Avith the able sermon, Avhich, as 
 he delivered it with an earnestness of trath, Avas a very fine 
 discourse from his text. He seemed to be a man of sound 
 logical abilities, but may prove to be a little too High-Church 
 for any great popularity among his flock in this city. 
 
 On Monday vve dined at Mrs. Berthold's, and spent the 
 afternoon in riding out to Carondelet, a most beautiful French 
 village, Avhich is situated about five miles from the town, at 
 Avhich point, as Ave descended the East hill, a most picturesque 
 vicAV Avas presented. In fact, avc know none Avhich surpasses 
 this in beauty ; and 0!i our return in the evening Avcnt to the 
 
C4 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 theatre, where we saw " London Assurajice " enacted, the main 
 characters in which were well sustained by Barrett, Thorne, and 
 Mrs. Farrcn, as stars, but poorly supported by the stock company, 
 ■which was miserable ; but the theatre was very pretty as well as 
 commodious in its interior, Avhich was handsomely painted in 
 frescoes, with its walls and amphitheatres and dress circles 
 decorated in excellent taste. Wrote home four letters later in 
 the evening, after we had retired from the play-house, and — 
 
 On Tuesday, 12th, spent the morning in writing up our jour- 
 nal, etc., and made several calls on our friends, etc. On Wed- 
 nesday we remained most of the day in the house, although 
 ]>art of the morning was spent in calling on Cabanne, and passed 
 the evening at Mrs. Berthold's, where we met with Mr. Sandford, 
 Vvho had started with us as our companion from Washington 
 city in May last. 
 
 On Thursday morning Avent to church with llubycau, an old 
 law acquaintance of ours, when we were at the Dane Law-school 
 together at Cambridge, and afterwards took a walk over the road 
 by Chouteau's pond — a most beautiful piece of water which was 
 situated about a mile from the city ; from thence went to the Rock 
 Spring, from which point we crossed the country over the fields 
 of grass to Kemper College, an institution for the education of 
 young men, svhich had been recently founded, and was located 
 on a high hill that commands an extensive view of the country 
 for several miles. This gave us a fine opportunity of seeing the 
 lands in this vicinity, which are not so generally cultivated as 
 they usually are in the neighborhood of large cities ; this neg- 
 lect, we were told, arose from a defect in the titles to these 
 lands, which renders the purchase of them rathei" j^recarious. 
 Por this cause, also, most of the marketing for the city's use 
 was supplied from Illinois, on the opposite bank of the river. 
 The roads extending out of the city were exceedingly dusty 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 65 
 
 which fact rendered riding very disagreeable, unless when taken 
 quite late in the afternoon or after a recent shower. The pub- 
 lic are making great efforts for an improvement in their roads, 
 and in the course of time their condition will be much amelio- 
 rated by the construction of MacAdam's turnpikes. We had a 
 fine opportunity of seeing the city from a high hill immediately 
 back of its halls ; but the best view which can be obtained is 
 that which may be observed from the top of the Planters' 
 House. 
 
 In the evening we attended a small party at Mrs. Clapp's, 
 where the evening was agreably spent. There were not many 
 pretty ladies present, in fact there are not many young ladies 
 in the place ; most of them were married ; and the stragglers 
 which fill up these parties were chiefly imported from other 
 cities. We were, however, much pleased with a niece of Col- 
 onel Benton, an interesting and well-educated young lady, who 
 also displayed much refinement in her conversation and a good 
 deal of taste in her dress. 
 
 The French society here was rapidly declining, whilst that 
 of the Americans was fast superseding it, although it will be 
 some time before the latter Avill partake of the urbanity and 
 sociability of the Frencli manners. 
 
 Most of our time was spent in the usual formality of visiting 
 Cabanne's store, Avhere we were occupied in reading the news- 
 papers. Here, also, under the shadow of his hospitable roof 
 Ave enjoyed the cool breezes which flitted over the river, and 
 the busy scenes of life which were presented before the door. 
 All the business of the place was done in one street ; and of 
 course in times of commercial prosperity a more busy appear- 
 ance is afforded from such a situation, and the best which can 
 be obtained from the levee on the river's bank, which extended 
 up and down for several miles. 
 
66 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 There are many beautiful mounds within the limits of the 
 city. Many conjectures have been raised as to the intention 
 of their first builders at the date of their original erection ; and 
 as they can be referred to no particular period of time, it is 
 impossible to fix upon any true theory concerning their history. 
 It is, however, probable that they were the burying-places of 
 the aborigines. The country in the vicinity of the city 
 abounds with caves, which are not so much celebrated for their 
 natural beauty, or as curiosities, as from having been at several 
 times past the resort of counterfeiters. On the whole, we were 
 as much pleased with St. Louis as with any other town in the 
 West. It certainly is the most promising city west of the 
 mountains, and possesses advantages of local position which are 
 surpassed by no other place. It has a greater extent of back 
 country to support it ; for the whole valley of the Mississippi 
 opens its vast treasures upon its wharves, and thus famishes an 
 immense source of trade, together with the rich produce which 
 the Missouri river pours down ; besides the rich grain-fields of 
 the State of Illinois, on the opposite banks, superadd thi vast 
 products of the State of Illinois, while the Ohio even sends her 
 abundant harvests into this vast granary of the West. Much 
 of the trade which formerly fell to Louisville and Cincinnati is 
 now swallowed up by this place, where wheat, hemp, and tobac- 
 co, Avhich Avere formerly articles of import, are now the staples 
 of this country. The vast waves of the tide of emigration, 
 here arrested, find a stay, and the number of its inhabitants 
 is rapidly increasing. Its buildings are constructed in good 
 taste, and in some respects it resembles Philadelphia; in others, 
 Baltimore. 
 
ail)aptcr 9. 
 
 CHICAGO AND THE LAKES. 
 
 On Monday we took leave of our friends, and, at about four 
 o'clock P.M., were rapidly conveyed from the city on board the 
 " Glaucus," to enjoy a pleasant sail up the Illinois river. The 
 scenery on this river is quite monotonous, and is scarcely re- 
 lieved by a view into the back country. There are several 
 pretty towns on the banks, many of Avhich bid fair at some 
 future time to be ports for considerable trade. At Peru we took 
 stages for Chicago, where we met with some difficulty, as the 
 landlord was anxious to obtain a dinner from us. On the road 
 to Ottawa we passed several springs with excellent mineral prop- 
 erties, at one of which we found some fine specimens of 
 petrified moss. About half a mile from Ottawa, just as we had 
 passed a bridge over a deep ravine, the stage was suddenly up- 
 set ; and although we were hurled with the quickness of thought 
 to the ground, no serious injury resulted from our overthrow. 
 After having found that none of the injuries were serious, we 
 walked to the hotel, where we had the good fortune of find- 
 ing another stage. This was the first accident which had ever 
 occurred to us, and we shall ever remember the mingled and 
 confused emotions which accompanied this novel situation. 
 
68 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 We proceeded on our route tlirough to Chicago without furthei 
 injury ; the road was very good, and passed through some of 
 .the most extensive prairies iu the West. The soil is excellent, 
 and "well adapted for the growth of grain. The appearance of 
 the prairies was quite novel. Vast plains covered with the 
 greatest varieties of grasses and wild flowers extended them- 
 selves for miles, until they bordered the horizon. The view of 
 these prairies by night was strikingly beautiful ; and as the moon 
 shone out in peerless beauty over the immense plains, which 
 were covered by her rays, it seemed as if a mantle of the driven 
 snow had been stretched over the earth. Whilst passing through 
 one section of land, we were surprised by the bursting out of an 
 extensive fire, which flashed before our vision. The scene was 
 strikingly Avild and beautiful, and the rapidity Avith which the 
 flames extended themselves was exceedingly grand and exciting. 
 Nothing can exceed the beauty of these lands ; and when clad 
 with the morning mist, and as the sun breaks out of the delicate 
 vista with which nature has decked herself, and whilst the 
 whole plain spreads out rolling swards of verdure, grasses, and 
 wild flowers, to the distance of miles, then the scene presented 
 is like a sunrise on the sea. 
 
 As we had arrived at Joliet about midnight, the moonlight 
 enabled us to obtain an indistinct view of the town, which 
 seemed one of the most beautiful of all those which we visited 
 along the route. Here we had a fine opportunity of seeing the 
 canal which passes near the town, and is one of the most 
 finished pieces of art, as a work and massive construction, which 
 has yet been engineered in this new region ; and Avhen completed 
 it will greatly enhance the growth of the State, as well as con- 
 tribute to the beauty of Chicago, which only waits the open- 
 ing of this canal to supply it with suitable stone for building 
 its edifices. We arrived at Chicago about noon, and in the 
 
FROSt THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. G9 
 
 afternoon had the pleasure of seeing Mr. Dickey, with whom 
 we went to view the departure of the " Western." This is the 
 favorite boat throughout the country, and the people of the 
 place flocked down to the wharf to witness her departure. In 
 company with Mr. D. we strolled across the river, and had an 
 opportunit)' of seeing some of their private residences, which 
 were built in good taste, on the other side of a canal. 
 
 In the afternoon of Friday we attended the opening of the 
 court which was now sitting on a criminal session ; and when 
 there, were much struck with the novelty of the scene presented 
 in tlie court. The court was held in a public building hired 
 for the purpose, in the second story of which the judge and 
 other officers were assembled, and on entering the door we 
 observed a motley group of lawyers, witnesses, and spectators, 
 all sitting in easy postures about the room. The counsel for 
 the defence with his feet resting on the tops of the table, the 
 judge in the body of the court with his legs crossed behind the 
 railing, and vai'ious other members of the bar stretched, laid o'.it, 
 and scattered about the premises at random. In the interval 
 between the recess and opening of the court, the profession 
 whiled away time by a series of anecdotes which were well 
 suited to the foul air of the place, or a legal body who were 
 travelling on the circuit ; while some of the listeners to their 
 passing talcs filled up the leisure moments by the pleasant and 
 local habit of whittling fine shavings, the splinters of which lay in 
 great profusion about the floor, and seemed to supply the ab- 
 sence of sand. It was delightful to perceive the primitive con- 
 dition of things, to which Justice had humbled herself in these 
 parts, and the degree of familiarity which had extended from 
 their disrespect of the person of the judge to the questioning 
 of his legal abilities. 
 
 In the afternoon Mr. D. called, and we drove down to tlic 
 
VO DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 Lake shore. Through his politeness we were introduced to 
 Mrs. Russell the same evening, an amiable and accomplished 
 lady, formerly from Alexandria, who had spent much of her 
 time in the hazy atmospliere of our political metropolis. Mr. 
 Dickey paid us every attention while in the town, and through 
 his politeness we had free access to the reading-room, where 
 an hour of the morning was generally spent. We were also 
 introduced to several of the profession, and fully satisfied our- 
 selves that no opening had been left here for any strolling adven- 
 turers. 
 
 On Sunday we attended church with Mr. D., and heard a very 
 tolerable discourse. Our curiosity was somewhat gratified at 
 a sight of the pulpit, which evidently had never been origi- 
 nally intended for the body which now inclosed it ; for it ap- 
 peared at this time standing out in great disproportion to the 
 small number of worshippers in the house, and as if the spirit 
 of '36 which dictated its design had been nipped too soon in the 
 bud to allow of its entire completion. 
 
 Monday, in company with Mr. Lee, we started with the in- 
 tention of visiting the inteiior of the State. Our road for the 
 first seventeen miles passed through the prairies, which were 
 more extensive than any which we had yet passed on our way 
 through the State by the stage, and on the road we started up 
 several prairie hens ; but not having our guns with us, were not 
 enabled to procure any of them for our dinner. 
 
 We dined at Dumfries Grove, if that could be called a dinner 
 which consisted only of bread and milk. Our landlord apolo- 
 gized for his scanty fare by mentioning that his family had just 
 returned home after an absence of several weeks. We remained 
 here until the heat of the sun had somewhat abated, and then 
 proceeded on to Bloomingdale, the next shady spot on the 
 road. The country then began to assume a more interestina 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUJr^IITS. 71 
 
 aspect, and wc were gratified at the siglit of tlie neat fences 
 which were constructed on both sides of the road, and viewed 
 the stretches of the snaky zigzag rails that inclosed the extensive 
 fields of wheat. 
 
 From this point to Elgin, our route lay chiefly through 
 thickly-shaded woods ; and after a most delightful drive along 
 the most pleasant hours of the day we reached Elgin, this town 
 of the groves, and made it our stopping-place for tlie night. 
 Here we had the unexpected pleasure of meeting Mr. Wilson, 
 Avho had been a fellow-student with us at Cambridge, for we 
 had discovered him by the dubious light of the moon, whilst 
 we were busily engaged in the newly-assumed position of 
 grooming the horse ; and after attending to this pure matter of 
 duty, we spent a most delightful evening together in convers- 
 ing about our old friend^i, and in reviewing old associations. 
 
 Early next morning we left Elgin, and proceeded along the 
 margin of the Fox river to St. Charles, which formed one of 
 the prettiest villages which Ave met on our route. It is sup- 
 ported chiefly by its mill-privileges and the rich produce coun- 
 try in the vicinity, which lies in this county. As our road con- 
 tinued along the banks of this river, it afforded us a fine oppor- 
 tunity of observing several rich landscapes ; and as the river 
 itself is more rapid than any other stream in this State, its 
 course lends much interest to the beauty of the surrounding 
 country. The land about this town and Napierville is cele- 
 brated for the abundance of grain which it produces. It is a 
 common sight to meet Avith several hundred acres under culti- 
 vation in one body, which is producing all the varieties of 
 grain at once. The \deAvs presented from some of the most 
 elevated points in these prairies were highly beautiful, and 
 become certainly more interesting from the idea of their utility 
 hr a groAvth of cereals, which is united Avith the abundance of 
 
72 DRIFT TIIOUnnTS WIDE APART. 
 
 yield fi'ora sucli fertile resources. At certain points most com- 
 manding prospects are presented as the sunlight and shadow 
 pass over the fields, and the different varieties of color which 
 the grain assumes present a very pleasing effect to the eye ; and 
 one is lost and ravished with the various gratifying emotions 
 which pass through the mind at their ever-changing character 
 as the clouds checkered the surface of the water with the bright 
 patens of sunlight gleaming over them. From Geneva, the 
 next town that we visited, we retraced our steps homeward ; 
 and as the face of the country presented pretty much the same 
 general features as those seen when we were coming out of 
 town, it is needless to enter into a description of it. 
 
 On Wednesday morning we reached Chicago, where we 
 remained until the afternoon, and after having taken leave of 
 our acquaintances, started in the "Illinois''^ for Ck-veland. 
 
 At this, for the first time in our life, we moved upon the face 
 of these lakes, and our whole passage through them was at- 
 tended with delightful eiuotions. We commenced our trip 
 under the most unfavorable auspices for wind and weather; but 
 as our boat was considered the safest one that had ever been 
 built on these lakes, of course our apprehension of danger was 
 in a great degree diminished. 
 
 After a pleasant sail during the first night, we arrived at 
 Milwaukee, a beautiful and flourishing town in Wisconsin, the 
 appearance of which, as seen from the lake, is quite prepossess- 
 ing. Our passage still continued attended with unpleasant 
 weather, and in the afternoon the tediousness of our livelong 
 day was relieved by the unexpected pleasure of finding an old 
 schoolmate, Tom Le Baron, on board, who had taken passage 
 at Milwaukee. This was the most agreeable adventure win -h 
 had occurred to us during the trip. The pleasure attending it 
 derived much of its virtue from the surprise which accomjjanieJ 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. Y3 
 
 the meeting of oce wlio had been long separated from us, and 
 whom we had always greatly esteemed, smarting under tlie 
 discipline of old Simon Putnam, at the Academy, when and 
 while we were together in his school at North Andover. 
 
 On the morning of Friday we approached Mackinaw, and we 
 were quite delighted to discover the land, which we had fre- 
 quently lost sight of during the day. This island is one of the 
 most romantic in our country, and would well repay a visit, 
 from its many attractions. The view and situation of the fort 
 is extremely picturesque ; while its location as a trading-point 
 with the Indians received much interest from old associations 
 here called forth in the grasp of our imaginations. 
 
 In the afternoon we stopped at Presqu'ile, which is a very 
 pretty spot, where our attention was drawn to the clear, beau- 
 tiful, deep blue color of the waters of Lake Huron, which per- 
 mitted us to see the fish sporting in their play beneath its sur- 
 face, nearly to a sight of the white sands on its bottom. 
 
 Towards evening the aspect of the shy changed suddenly, 
 when the heavens became quite overcast ; as soon as we had 
 passed through Sangamoo Bay, and left Thunder Island at our 
 rear in the distance, the whole heavens were cast in a new 
 mould, and then assumed the threatening appearances of a 
 storm. We had rarely seen or observed any tempest more 
 wild, sublime and terrific, than that which then raged over the 
 rugged cliffs of Thunder Island ; the seas were lashed up into 
 a state of unbridled fury, and dashed their white spray on the 
 rock-bound coast; while dark masses of the clouds were gath- 
 ered into forms of blackness, and filled the immense reservoirs 
 of the thunder which Avere brooding over the distant firmament 
 of the horizon. We escaped, however, that night without any 
 serious inconvenience ; and the next morning was very bright, 
 so as to afford us a favorable opportunity of seeing the scenery 
 
 4 
 
74 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 on tlie St. Croix river and lake. Here we obtained tlie first 
 sight of her Majesty's dominions ; but we could not but be 
 pleased with the favorable impression of our own shores, when 
 contrasted with those of Canada. The American villages are 
 neat, and convey a healthy idea of industry and happiness ; 
 whilst that of the opposite shore, though far more gifted with 
 the beauty of fine forest trees, has an appearance of neglect 
 and poverty. As the weather soon became unfavorable, and 
 the rain severe on reaching Detroit, we were not able to enter 
 the town, which from the distance had presented a very impos- 
 ing front to the beliolder on our approach. 
 
 After leaving Detroit, the storm commenced with renewed 
 energy, and heavy rain fell, accompanied with a violent wind, 
 so that we had the pleasure of experiencing a storm on the 
 lakes, which was unusually severe for the present season of the 
 year. We had a most bitter night; and if the experiences of 
 our feUow-travcllers Avere equal to those we felt on the next 
 morning, they must have been fully satisfied with their trial of 
 tliis pleasure excursion around the lakes, — for such a collection 
 of melancholy and woe-begone countenances as were brought 
 out by the light of the day, then displayed the most heteroge- 
 neous specimens of morbid anatomy that was ever compounded 
 from trembling and shaking jelly of prostrate living human 
 forms, that were then seen sprawling around the deck, or lying 
 for rest under the awnings, on top of coffbe-bags for a pillow. 
 The ladies' cabin was a scene of uproar and confusion. Sympa- 
 thy led us to form several new acquaintances, among whom we 
 shall always be pleased to remember Mr. Boughton, of Yoik- 
 villc, and Dr. and Mrs. Metcalf, of Natchez, Mississippi. 
 
ari)aptcr 10. 
 
 CLEVELAND AND THE CANALS. 
 
 As soon as we Lad reached Cleveland, about noon, wlien the 
 fury of the storm abated, yet we left the boat with regret, as 
 the trip bad been attended with many pleasing incidents. Our 
 own sorrow was somewhat relieved by the sight of land ; and 
 once assured of a safe footing on shore, our sensations of 
 terra firma revived, and Ave soon forgot the miseries of awful 
 sea-sickness ; although it was a long time before we were en- 
 abled to ship our sea-legs, or to prevent our oscillating move- 
 ments as Ave " reeled to and fro, and staggered like a drunken 
 man," nearly turning topsy-turA-y in whirligig motions on 
 the pavement, for we came near turning a somerset of ca- 
 pers ; which feat might easily have been carried out Avhile avc 
 were still laboring under the head-aching dizziness Avhich Avas 
 all tbe Avliile tending to create a subversion of the upright po- 
 sition, and lift us completely off our feet ; for we were hardly 
 able to recover our equilibrium of balance. 
 
 After dinner we were again surprised at meeting a Mr. Fitz 
 Hugb, who bad been one of our old acquaintances at Cam- 
 bridge. In the afternoouAve attended church, and after the 
 
'JG DRIFT TIIOUGnTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 service was over ascended to the top of the " American House," 
 from whence we were favored with a panorama of the city, 
 which is most pleasantly situated. The lake rolls out its broad 
 and expansive surface, Avhilst a most beautifully undulating and 
 highly picturesque country supports the town in the rear. The 
 houses are neat and well built, and the streets broad and well 
 shaded with trees. xVt 7 o'clock we started on the canal packet- 
 boat for Portsmouth, and were delighted with this mode of 
 travelling, which was at once easy, and affording the ever- 
 present means of viewing near by the landscapes from the 
 banks of the canal, and at the time in this country proved 
 equally expeditious as the stage-coaches, for all the roads were 
 in a most wretched condition. The scenery around Cleveland, 
 and on the outskirts of the canal, was exceedingly beautiful ; 
 and the several views from the bends of the canal and of the 
 river, which were scarcely ever out of sight, all the way, lent 
 a great deal of beauty to the scenic efiects of the territory 
 which lies in the stretch of the adjacent country. 
 
 The country in the vicinity of Akron is quite wild and 
 mountainous ; here, after an ascent of about four hundred feet, 
 you will find yourself concealed among the high hills, in the 
 neighborhood of the valleys, by which feature the situation of 
 the town is beautifully relieved. It is quite a manufacturing 
 place, and the noise of machinery was continually i-esounding 
 through the mountains, with ringing echoes. 
 
 The intermediate country which lies between Akron and 
 Massillon, is not so interesting as that of some of the more 
 southern counties that are Avatered by the Tuscarora river ; but 
 the Muskingum bottoms are celebrated for the fertility of their 
 soil and the abundant products from their vegetation. 
 
 Massillon is the next most thriving place to which we came. 
 The country about it produces a great quantity of wheat. Stark 
 
FEOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 11 
 
 county is considered to be tlie most rich and fertile portion of 
 the State, and about dusk we passed by Zoar, an interesting vil- 
 lage, which was settled a few years since by a colony of Dutchmen 
 (a similar colony also established themselves at Economy, near 
 Pittsburg), The former have selected here about nine thousand 
 acres, in the very heart of the country, possessing a soil which 
 is unsurpassed in its fertility, and quite unequalled in the beauty 
 of its position. They live here in common, and work together 
 with the greatest harmony. Piety is promoted, and everything 
 tending to their demoralization is strictly prohibited. It is the 
 prettiest spot we have yet seen, and the sight of it would alone 
 repay you for a visit. The houses have a Dutch-like appear- 
 ance of neatness and comfort, and are generally painted white, 
 with tile roofs. They have their mills of every description, 
 with fine churches, and immense barns for their crops. Their 
 grounds are kept clean, and their lawns display the most 
 cheerful hues of the green grass. This is, indeed, a charming 
 spot; and as you view the landscape, with the beautifully- 
 trimmed trees and the shrubbery about them, and the river, 
 which winds its way through the distant fields, and see the 
 tops of the houses glittering through the foliage, it is easy to 
 recall the associations of the still life-pictures, in which are so 
 ably depicted in those rich and glowing sketches of Teniers, 
 which are to be seen in Holland. 
 
 The country from this point was highly cultivated, and well 
 watered by the Muskingum, of which the Tuscarora is a tribu- 
 tary. About nine o'clock we reached Roscoe, a thriving place. 
 Here we saw several droves of horses proceeding towards the 
 Eastern mountains, via the Alleghanies. 
 
 On Tuesday night, the long hours of the night are pro- 
 longed, by sittmg up to see the celebrated reservoir, which has 
 been constructed through the cuts of the rocks for the purpose 
 
V8 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 of supplying the canal with water during the dry season. This 
 contains thirty-two thousand acres, and probably surpasses 
 anything of the kind in the world. Our journey down the 
 canal from this point was attended with little variety. Wc 
 had sufficiently exhausted the sources of conversation which 
 the company of a blackleg and two sporting characters who 
 were on board the boat had afforded us, so that, on our arrival 
 at Lockburn, we were glad enough to escape them, while we 
 were shipped off on to the cross-canal which connects this 
 place with Columbus. 
 
 When once seated on board the boat, we soon found the 
 captain, who seemed as if he had formerly acted a nobler part 
 than that of packet-master. After a pleasing jaunt through the 
 country, presenting no interesting features, we came to land at 
 Columbus, the capital of Ohio, and here we found the Legisla- 
 ture in session, occupied with the apportionment of the State 
 into districts. After dinner wc ascended to the top of the hotel, 
 and there surveyed the town, which lay beneath. Its appear- 
 ance, together with the surrounding aspect of the country, was 
 highly fertile ; the several public institutions looked beauti- 
 fully as they loomed forth in the perspective of the distant 
 landscape, and added much to the beauty of the scene ; whilst 
 the handsome bottom-lands, which stretched far beyond the 
 vision, presented one of the most refreshing sights of deep 
 green, in the sweeping lawns of pasture ; while far beyond our 
 stand-point, Bankiston, the headquarters of General Harrison 
 during the late war, shines conspicuously in the distance, and 
 forms a pretty border to this sweet landscape. 
 
 The appearance of Columbus, when seen from the lunatic 
 asylum, reminded us of some views that we have seen of 
 Berlin. 
 
 In the evening wc left Columbus ; and, after travelling during 
 
FEOJI THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 19 
 
 the whole night, wc reached Sjiringfield — a beautiful town — and 
 thence continued our ride during the whole day until we came 
 to Dayton, at about breakfast-time. This town is considered 
 one of the most interesting places in the State. From this 
 city our route lay principally through the valley of the Miami 
 river, which gave us a fine opportunity of seeing some of the 
 fine bottom-lands on the river. The corn was growing to the 
 height of twelve to sixteen feet, and a peculiar kind of soil 
 seemed to produce very excellent tobacco. This valley was 
 certainly the most beautiful one we had yet visited in the 
 United States. Abundance reigns here in every quarter, and 
 prosperity seemed again to be spreading its happy influence over 
 the features of the people. 
 
 At Cincinnati we arrived about seven o'clock, p.m., on Thurs- 
 day ; and when we had settled down, we were glad enough to 
 meet again familiar faces, and to recognize the cheery voices of 
 old friends; and here we found "Williams, who had been travel- 
 ling as far as this point for his health. 
 
€l)aptcr IL 
 
 THE MAMMOTH CAVE. 
 
 In the morning we left for Louisville, where we stayed (luring 
 Sunday afternoon, in order to attend the baptism of Mr. Suead's 
 child, whom he named. Maria Austin, in remembrance of a for- 
 mer lady friend of his in Boston, and a mutual friend. 
 
 Two o'clock, Monday, saw us on our road to the Cave. Our 
 ride Avas a pleasant one, and in company with Mr. Dodge we 
 managed to pass the time very agreeably. 
 
 As we passed through Elizabethtown, we found the town in 
 quite a commotion on account of a suicide which had been re- 
 cently committed by a young lady, who was a niece of 'Senator 
 Bellum. Love was the probable cause of this act, which has 
 deprived his home at once of a daughter and an heiress. 
 
 As we approached " Red Mills " about the hour of dinner, 
 we were quite amused by a romantic incident which helped us 
 to beguile the tediousness of our route. A young lady of fif- 
 teen had taken a strong affection for a horse-jockey. Of course 
 the parents were opposed to the match, which he resisted, never- 
 theless ; and in one of his attempts to elope with his intended 
 was met by the father, who threatened to shoot him if he per- 
 .'sistcd in his intentions. After much coolness, the dcalci- ii) 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 81 
 
 liorscflesh resolved to overcome all scruples, and in spite of all 
 parental objections, to obtain the object of his desires. Pre- 
 pared with a brace of pistols, he approached the parental roof, 
 Avhen he was warmly received by father and son, both of whom 
 were armed with pitchforks, at which formidable appear- 
 ance the jockey did not see fit to retreat ; but drawing out 
 his pistols, told them that he was determined, " that they could 
 not come it over him ; " it would be of no use ; so have her he 
 should, dead or alive! They saw at once that all further re- 
 sistance was useless, and the father retreated into an amiable 
 idjustment of the differences existing between them. After all 
 the preliminaries had been settled, it was agreed between them 
 that the couple should be immediately united ; and as we passed 
 l)y the scene of action in our coach, w'c saw from the dying de- 
 clarations of the fatted calf, which had been slain for the nuptial 
 feast in one building, whilst on the other side of the house, 
 ni\dcr the woody bower which had been erected close by the 
 side of the rustic tables that they were constructing, and near 
 wliich the festivities of the occasion Avere to be celebrated, 
 that the marriage would soon be consummated, and become a 
 fiict on the records of the town. That night about 10 o'clock 
 we reached Bell's Tavern, which is as notorious from the peach 
 brandy which he makes, as the Cave itself. After making all 
 the necessary arrangements for our conveyance to the Cave the 
 next morning, Ave retired for the night, and 
 
 Tuesday morning found us at the Cave, after a short ride 
 over an unbroken country that abounded with shrub oaks, and 
 was called " The Barrens," from the fact that it was formerly 
 entirely divested of vegetation. 
 
 Immediately after our arrival we proceeded on our first visit 
 to the Cave ; and, accompanied by Dr. Croghan, Ave visited sev- 
 eral of the })rinciple avenues. Passing by the Church, and 
 
 4.* 
 
82 DKIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APAKT. 
 
 going down through Croghan's Hal], we Avcnt in this direction 
 as far as Lake Purity, — a beautiful little handful of the clearest 
 water, and -which might well remind one of the Nymphs' Bath. 
 We then retraced our steps as far as the Cathedral, -which as- 
 sumes somewhat of the aspect of a large gothichall, with galler- 
 ies overhead, besides a fit jilace for a pulpit and an organ. On 
 the way back, we stopped to admire the Stalactite Chapel, 
 which is one of the most interesting chambers in this cavera, 
 where the avenue temiinatcs in a small aperture, and then en- 
 larges itself into a spacious hall, which Avas hung in pendants 
 with foraiations of the carbonate of lime. This was soon illumin- 
 ated by our lights, Avhich had been properly arranged ; and their 
 reflected brightness through the transparency of the columns 
 produced a scene of surpassing brilliancy. 
 
 Once more we found ourselves in the Church, from Avhence 
 we departed on our way to the rivers ; after having passed 
 through several narrow passages, descending at times and as- 
 cending at others, Ave repassed through the Avinding passages, 
 Avhich terminated in a spacious avenue that led to the Bottom- 
 less Pit, and to the Dead Sea ; then, leaving these to our left 
 Ave descended another ladder, and landed on the road, near the 
 river. The scene presented on our arrival at the river Avas 
 transcendently sublime; partaking sufficiently of the grand and 
 obscure, it gave full scope for the workings of our imaginations, 
 and it required no great knoAvledge of classical lore to imagine 
 ourselves on the banks of the river Styx. Nor were Ave at all at a 
 loss for images of the spirits Avho Avere Avaiting for their passage 
 across this stream, Avhich Avere Avell represented by the illumi- 
 nated bodies of our companions, who seemed to all purposes 
 ghostly cuough. from the peculiarly halo-light which Avas reflect- 
 ed upon their countenances by the flaming candles Avhich 
 they carried. The part of Charon Avas avcU represented by our 
 
FKOM TUE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 83 
 
 most excellent of guides, Steplien, avIio seemed as tenacious of 
 the capacity of his boat as the great original to whom we saw 
 fit to compare him. Never have we witnessed a scene more 
 singularly striking than the one here presented ; and having 
 separated ourselves from the company, in order to observe its 
 cfiect in the most favorable position, from where Ave stood apart 
 and surrounded by darkness onl}^, looked upon the illuminated 
 scene before us. Our other companions, Avho were each attended 
 by a lamp, kept constantly on the move, and their motions 
 resembled somewhat the flickering and uncertain appearance of 
 insects with their firefly lamps ; Avhilst the roof overhead pre- 
 sented the aspect of a clouded sky, and the pale cast of the gloomy 
 Avaters below gave a most unhallowed and unearthly character 
 to the scene. 
 
 What a place for a Virgil or a Dante to roam about, from 
 Avhence their imaginations might find proper materials for their 
 hells— 
 
 " Lasciate ogni Speranza vol excentiate." — Dante s Inferno. 
 
 We could not but regret the absence of some person Avhose 
 poetic abilities Avould have been fully equal to the grand de- 
 scription of the air and sublimity of the place. Silently, and 
 fully intent with our thoughts upon the many reflections sug- 
 gested by the scenery around us, Ave retraced our steps to the 
 mouth of the caA^e, Avhich Ave reached a short time after the 
 sun was in its meridian. It Avould be impossible to describe 
 the peculiar sensation Avhich OA'crcame us Avhen Ansiting this 
 subterranean abode for the first time. The strength, character 
 and cast of one's reflections must necessarily be tinctured by 
 the nature of each individual's temperament and his peculiar 
 susceptibility to the efl"ects of natural scenery. An attempted 
 description on our part Avould be only a mockery of the master- 
 spirit of a Virgil or a Dante, Avhose minds Avere formed in 
 
84 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 the grand inoulds in wliicli nature delights to cast all those 
 wonders which defy the power of man, and stand as everlasting 
 monuments to remind him of his weakness. 
 
 After tea, in company with Mr. Dodge, and Stephen for our 
 guide, we started again on an excursion across the river. Our 
 course was attended with no peculiar circumstances of variety, 
 except that at the river we were joined by another party con- 
 sisting chiefly of students from Bardstown. This we regretted 
 exceedingly, as it had been our original intention to restrict the 
 number of our party, so as to have our guide as much as pos- 
 sible under our own control. After considerable delay, Ave crossed 
 the rivers, which same pieces of water are variously called the 
 Styx, Lethe, and the Jordan. 
 
 Once landed on the opposite shore, we proceeded to our 
 destination. Our road was somewhat better than that which 
 first led us to the river, and we were enabled to proceed at a 
 rapid pace ; and after walking about two hours wc reached the 
 foot of the ladder which we were obliged to ascend before enter- 
 ing the Cabinet. As this place afforded a fine spring of water, 
 we stopped here, and immediately commenced an attack upon the 
 provisions which had been stored in our baskets. Never were 
 there such appetites nor such eaters to disturb the shades of this 
 disembowelled recess, nor could any troop of bacchanalians have 
 had less respect for the dismal and awful aspect of our location. 
 
 Having fully supplied our wants, we ascended the ladder, and 
 were surprised by finding ourselves surrounded by a formation 
 which seemed far more varied and curious than any we had 
 yet seen ; the whole surface of the chamber into which we 
 entered was perfectly formed into clusters of the carbonate of 
 lime, that much resembled bunches of white grapes, and from its 
 shape has been appi opriatoly called Mary's Vineyard ; and 
 while considering the beauty of these formations, and admiring 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 85 
 
 the appearances which they assumed in the reflected light of 
 our lamps, our guide informed us that we were in the vicinity 
 of one of the most interesting grottoes of the cave, which 
 could be readily seen if we were willing to undertake the diffi- 
 culty of a very rugged ascent. We immediately agreed to visit 
 it, even at our imminent risk, determined that no apprehension 
 of danger should prevent us from seeing whatever exhibition 
 of the wonderful Nature had here offered for our inspection. 
 After a severe task of climbing up the precipitous declivity of 
 a hill we reached a point, Avhich at first seemed to deny us 
 entrance, but after some exertion we overcame the obstacles 
 opposed to our progress, and soon found ourselves in one of 
 the most beautiful recesses imaginable. The roof was entirely 
 hung with graceful and delicate stalactites which were more 
 fragile in their structure than any Ave had yet seen ; their trans- 
 parent nature easily admitted the rays of the flickering lights, 
 when the chamber became instantly and brilliantly illuminated, 
 so as to furnish a most rich and classic gateway to the cave 
 beyond (which was at the foot of the hill), over which these 
 formations were pendant. We observed a deep and narrow 
 dark hole, from which Ave readily conceived, for the contiguous 
 springs of moisture round the spot, gave an appearance of 
 freshness to the earth, that it had been neAvly dug from piles of 
 fresh dirt that had been throAvn out from the extreme edges 
 of the pit. We could not but be struck by the sanctity of 
 the place, and the associations Avhich aro^e within us Avhile 
 we contemplated our situation were of peculiar interest. It 
 Avas discovered in the summer of 1841 by a Mr. BroAvn, of 
 BardstoAvn College, and Avas named by him the " Holy Sepul- 
 chre." We could not but admire the taste Avhich had chosen 
 such an admirable title ; and as Avere descending often reflected 
 that wc also Avere pilgrims, in imagination only, to that sepul- 
 
86 DRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 clire Avliicli enshrines the most hallowed associations of man- 
 kind. 
 
 As soon as we had again landed at the Vineyard, we ad- 
 vanced to the spot which we had originally intended to visit. 
 After passing through a spacious avenue, the sides of which we 
 observed to be glistening with the most minute brilliants, v.e 
 suddenly found our avenue enlarging, and that the features of 
 the case were gi-eatly changed. We then learnt that we had 
 entered the Cabinet, which has been consecrated with the name 
 of Cleveland. 
 
 We were struck with the whiteness and beauty of this fo:'- 
 mation, which constituted the ceiling over our heads. They 
 resembled the aspect which vegetation would assume in the 
 entire absence of sun and light, while arraying themselves in 
 the most beautiful shapes, now like rosettes, and llowers just 
 expanding the bud ; again showing the full blown rose ; at times 
 much resembling the celery plant, and again appearing like the 
 leaves which ornament the capitals of the Corinthian order of 
 architecture. The formation contains the sulphate of lime and 
 magnesia, and, as we were told, are peculiar to this cave. Im- 
 mediately succeeding this formation, we entered another, which 
 has been termed the " Snow Ball " room, from the analogous 
 character of the formation which decorates the roof; and as 
 the intei'vals between have been tinged with the smoke of the 
 lamps, there is an alternation of the colors of the white and 
 brown, which reminded us strongly of the peculiar char- 
 acteristic of stucco pahitings. Having fully feasted our- 
 selves on the inexhaustible treasure-house of beautiful incrus- 
 tations which were around and about us, we determined to re- 
 turn. Nothing occurred to us which could render our retreat 
 novel. As w^c passed over the Jordan, we were struck w ith 
 the echo, which exceeded any that we had ever listened to. 
 
FKOM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 87 
 
 Vou may licre listen to a hundred reverberations from the in- 
 flections of your own voice ; and at once it becomes as stento- 
 rian as that of Demosthenes, when he was bawling for prac- 
 tice by the sea-shore, and Avhen we had the curiosity to learn 
 the eftect which might be produced by the firing oft" of a pistol, 
 imagine our astonishment at the report, when we heard a noise 
 which was louder than that of a forty-pound cannon after it3 
 discharge ; and as the echoes bounded along the rocky angles 
 of the walls, it seemed, as it died away, like the sounding and 
 booming roll of the artillery of the thunder in the heavens, after 
 the fiercest flashes of the sharpest lightning have pretermitted 
 the storm. After we had rccrossed the river, our party sej)ar- 
 
 aled from the guide ; and Mr. D and wo were left alone to 
 
 our own reflections, and now became fnlly awake to the im- 
 pression which stillness and solitude can oidy inspire. Stephen 
 soon led us to the Mammoth Dome, where we were gratified 
 still more by seeing another, and yet more grand specimen of 
 Nature's freaks. As we looked at this dark loop-hole in the c ' - 
 crn, we were struck with the stupendous height with which the 
 walls arose about us ; and as we turned from the immense 
 stalactite columns which loomed up majestically before us, 
 to look into the abyss below, we could but be thrilled with sen- 
 sations which were so peculiar to this spot, and were awe-struck 
 by the gaping mouths which stood with maws open, as if they 
 were ready to engulf us. After we had left this, we passed 
 again into the main cave, and on our way out we stopped a 
 moment to admire Gorin's Dome, which resembles the former 
 in a great degree, with the exception that this formation was 
 on a smaller scale, but of surpassing beauty, the stalactite pil- 
 lars creating an optical delusion, and assuming somewhat of a 
 scenic appearance, which lay like the folds of a rich drapery 
 over the unrevealed secrets of the space beyond. 
 
88 DHIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 We then proceeded onward towards tlie mouth, "which we 
 left about 6 o'clock, a. m., and soon after reached our hotel, 
 having been absent about nine hours. 
 
 On Wednesday morning we Avere quite gratified at the ar- 
 rival of Mr. and Mrs. Springer, of Cincinnati ; and in the af- 
 ternoon went a shoil distance into the Cave, and returned short- 
 ly, for we found that the party were about to revisit the same 
 spots which we had frequently seen before. Now, on Thursday, 
 we had quite an accession to our party, in the persons of 
 Col. Anderson and B. McClellan, of Philadelphia, of the U. 
 S. N., and found the former quite an eccentric genius ; for 
 he afterwards aftbrded much amusement from the droll man- 
 ner jV. which he narrated his stories about some of his adven 
 tures. 
 
 About 9 o'clock, in company ^^ith Mrs. Springer, Messrs 
 McClellan, Blair, and Burbank, we again went into the Cave. 
 This time our visit extended as far as Serina's Arbor, which is 
 situated about two miles beyond the second division of the 
 Cabinet. The approach to it was by way of the " Rocky 
 Mountains," over a path which was somewhat rugged and dif 
 ficult up to within a short distance of where the former was 
 situated. We were fully repaid for the trouble which attended 
 this latter visit ; and although it was the second time that we 
 had been over some portion of them, our pleasure seemed to 
 be redoubled. The bower was a very pretty nook, or recess, 
 and lies among the rocks, which were composed of splendid 
 stalactitic formations, most beautifully dropping from the top. 
 In the rear of this Ave found two other grottoes, one of which 
 was quite beautiful. As Mrs. Springer had manifested much 
 fortitude and energy in her ajiproach there, — and we believe she 
 was the first lady who has ever ventured thus far, — we saw fit 
 to designate one of them St. Catherine's Shrine ; and in honor 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 89 
 
 ot auotlier lady from Cincinnati, wc named the last wliich \vc 
 had discovered " Loretto's Grotto." 
 
 The greater part of Friday Avas sjDent in the house ; and we 
 had sufficient company to render our interior life quite agree- 
 able. Mrs. Allen, wife of an artist from Louisville, made it a 
 fine subject for a conversation, although ihe main topic was 
 our subterranean trip ; and being herself a specimen of female 
 beauty, we found this common point of our observation, while 
 in her society, quite attractive. 
 
 In the evening we went with Stephen into the Cave, and 
 succeeded in obtaining two fine specimens of the blind fish ; 
 which, having no occasion for light in the dark, arc born with- 
 out eyes ; besides several small crawfish. These are some of the 
 greatest curiosities to be met with in this region. However, they 
 are not peculiar to this cave, for they have been found in Indiana, 
 and may be procured from another cave which is in Kentucky, 
 
 Part of Saturday was spent in that greatest test of one's 
 patience, — fishing, as one's temper is tried when there is a 
 scarcity of fish. But we were much amused by the cockney 
 manners of Col. Anderson, which made us quite contented and 
 well satisfied with this day's excursion. For this man was a 
 great traveller, like Baron Munchausen, and boasted that he 
 had once caught a hundred-pound catfish on the Mississippi. 
 
 The Avhole of Sunday was spent in the house. There being 
 no church in the neighbourhood, we could not attend divine 
 service. It occasionally happens that they have preaching in 
 the Cave ; but we were told that the sharp sensation of damp- 
 ness and cold which overcomes the audience, during a sitting 
 on the ground floor, was apt to drive away those sentiments 
 of awe and sublimity which would naturally arise upon such an 
 occasion, and in a similarly damp place might chill the most 
 holy saints, if they knelt there for their devotions. 
 
90 
 
 DRIFr THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 On Monday we started for Belleville, where we dined; thence 
 proceeded by stage to Glasgow. Owing to Mr. BelPs kindness, 
 we were well supplied with peaches, which tended somewhat 
 to while away our time. 
 
 Whilst at Glasgow we took a ride out of town, and were 
 struck with the singularly antique structure of the buildings, 
 which are peculiar to the interior of Kentucky, and in some 
 respects quite picturesque in their construction. The pub- 
 lic whom we observed in the parlor of the hotel seemed to 
 be entirely absorbed in the all-engrossing subject of mes- 
 merism, and with a murder that had recently been committed 
 by one Mons. Alexandre, who was formerly from this vicinity. 
 
 About 10 o'clock, P.M., on Monday, we started for Bards- 
 town, where we arrived the next day about noon. This town 
 contains a Catholic College, which has an extensive reputation 
 throughout Kentucky. In fact, the policy of this faith is 
 widely spreading its influence throughout the far West, and 
 all the best institutions for the purposes of education are of 
 this persuasion. 
 
ail)aptcr 12. 
 
 HARRODSBURG SPRINGS. 
 
 We then proceeded on our journey, determined to stop a 
 sliort time at Harrodsburg Springs. On our way thither we 
 stopped at Springfield and Perryville. At the latter place we 
 were obliged to stop, and take a disturbed rest of two hours. 
 
 The road between Springfield and Perryville was the Avorst 
 that we have ever travelled ; and one needs much more sleep 
 than can be obtained in the space of two small hours of mid- 
 night. We were soon awakened out of our nap by the rattling 
 of the coach which Avas to bear us on to Harrodsburg; and 
 immediately after we had risen, left the inn to take seats inside. 
 Then, after a pleasant ride, we reached the Springs about 2 J- 
 o'clock P.M., on Tuesday, 16th, where the latter part of the 
 day passed off very slowly. 
 
 iVth. As we soon became acquainted with the permanent 
 boarders at this place, we managed to pass our time very 
 agreeably. 
 
 In the evening we Avere quite entertained by some experi- 
 ments in animal magnetism, which were conducted by Mr. 
 JForman, a young man of some energy, and considerable 
 strength of character. We were pretty Avell convinced by him 
 
92 DEIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 of the truth of its existence as a science; for no arguments have 
 yet been brought forward in opposition which will tend to 
 bring these hidden, important, and secret developments in 
 natural and revealed religion into disrepute ; and until it is 
 successfully confuted, the burden of proof lies on its adver- 
 saries. For in this case it was not a new theory, nor does it 
 run contrary to tried experiments; neither is there anything 
 paradoxical in its assumptions. Having an analogy in elec- 
 tricity, and other instances of biological effects, as well as in 
 the strange phenomena of somnambulism, to support its funda- 
 mental facts, it requres somewhat more than the judgment of 
 ignoramuses to refute it. At present, our mind was somewhat 
 uncertain, or in doubt, as to some portion of his exhibitions 
 as to the power of phreno-magnetism, at which our wonder 
 was greatly excited. These things, however, are still in their 
 infancy ; for most of the great discoveries in other sciences 
 were in their elements at first, and the result of mere accident. 
 If such can be carried out to any extent, they Avill certainly 
 lead to many certain and permanent inventions for the benefit 
 of the human race. The deeper study of the philosophy of 
 mental action will tend much towards the further investigation 
 of the laws of mind, and will finally establish the tmth of 
 phrenology. 
 
 AVhat a world we live in, and what monsters we all are, avIio 
 are all the time swimming about this world in a wilderness of 
 space, and we none of us know much about many of the ele- 
 ments in the midst of which we move, live, and have our being. 
 The present age has received a new impetus, which shows an 
 activity beyond the most brilliant hopes of its most eminent 
 investigators. Never, in any age, has philosophy exhibited such 
 illustrious evidences of the grandest development of civiliza- 
 tion, as seen in these footprints of the Creator of us all. 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 93 
 
 The far West has reflected the philosophical emanations of 
 the East with renewed light and with redoubled activity. What 
 a collection of nonpareils the universal man of two hemispheres 
 will result in, when these both put their shoulders to unroll the 
 Atlas of this round globe of ours. 
 
 On Thursday, we became acquainted with Mrs. Bishop, and 
 Messrs. Watennan and Graliam. Everything tends to make 
 our stay more agreeable. 
 
 In the morning we went down to taste the waters, which 
 have a great reputation for the cure of scrofula and other 
 cutaneous diseases. The springs are not as well attended this 
 year as usual, owing to the stagnation of money matters, which 
 has thrown its deadly and malignant effluvia of too great an 
 expansion of the currency over the whole surface of the 
 fashionable watering-place-seeking world. There was, liow- 
 ever, good society enough to interest one, but not enough to 
 engross one's whole soul, thus leaving some room for individual 
 reflection, and the cultivation of certain mental tastes. The 
 limited number of ladies well afforded fine opportunities for 
 flirtation, which, under the present auspices, became suffi- 
 ciently tinctured with dance and conversation to render them 
 highly attractive, and interestingly inviting, where one has a 
 fine opportunity offered for ripe diplomacy and the display of 
 tact. On such precarious grounds, where nothing less than a 
 politic course of action can insure success, and freedom from 
 the thousand alluring nets which Avoman throws around the 
 victim of her conquest, there is much pleasure as Avell as infor- 
 mation to be derived from an intercourse with the sex, under 
 such circumstances, which impress certain excellent lessons on 
 the minds of others, who can coolly and dispassionately investi- 
 gate this important subject. Most of the ladies were visible 
 in the morning, which afforded us frequent opportunities 
 
94 DKIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 of mixing ill tlieir society. In tlie afternoon tliey sit with 
 open doors, inviting all passers-by to the privilege of calling. 
 Thus the day is whiled away, under tlie genial influence of 
 pleasure ; and night always finds us ready either for the sooth- 
 ing influence of conversation, the exhilarating pleasures of the 
 dance, or the more formal receptions of the drawing-room. 
 
 On Thursday our attention was somewhat aroused by an 
 event which came near terminating quite seriously. A gentle- 
 man of Welsh descent, and very eccentric habits, saw fit to take 
 exceptions to the title of Rocky Mountain Chief, with which 
 Mr. Shelby had dubbed him, and insisted upon that reparation 
 for his wounded honor, or amour propre, but is, in reality, 
 vanity, which seeks the blood of the victim in order to appease 
 its wrath. Ovk'ing to mutual concessions, made by either party, 
 all differences between them were amicably settled by their 
 true friends, and the belligerent terminated his hostilities by a 
 copious di'aught of whiskey-toddy. Now, in the evening, after 
 this treaty of peace had bean amicably settled, we made a most 
 ludicrous attempt to get up a dance ; but owing to the conflict 
 ing rights of the phrenologist, who had forestalled the use of 
 the room, all our endeavors proved in vain. About midnight 
 we were called upon to take leave of Mr. Hopkins, a gentle- 
 man whose liberality of soul Avas not often to be surpassed ; for, 
 through his politeness, we had become acquainted with most of 
 the ladies who were now at the Springs. Friday was spent by 
 the ladies in the drawing-room ; as we were not disposed to 
 join them in social converse, most of the evening was spent by 
 us in promenading, and the whole of Saturday was passed in 
 the same manner, and as satisfactorily as the previous one had 
 been during one or two days of the week; but with this excep- 
 tion, Saturday, late in the evening, we succeeded in getting up an 
 animated dance ; and were pleased to find that our acquaintance 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMIT.^. 95 
 
 witli the ladies added much to the gayety of this occasion. 
 Misses Wyatt, Waterburn, Graham, and Thompson were among 
 the ladies present ; and among the married ladies, Mrs. Bishop 
 and Mrs. Richardson contributed somewhat by their courteous 
 and engaging conversation to increase the pleasure of the even- 
 ing. Miss E is a beautiful creature, of rather a classic 
 
 style of features ; her countenance beams with intelligence ; in her 
 manner she is perfectly unassuming. The only daughter of a 
 Southern planter, one is surprised at finding her divested of 
 those airs and pretensions which are but too often met with 
 in heiresses, and often without any corresponding treasures of 
 mind, which alone should usurp the highest positions in society. 
 We were much delighted with the animated and imaginative 
 style of Mrs. R.'s conversation, for we have rarely mot with a 
 person whose fancy was so fully and richly developed, full of 
 life, and possessing a vivid susceptibility to the beauties of 
 native scenery ; she seems rather to exist among the creations 
 of a beautifuUy-orderecl and well-endowed intellect; and whilst 
 pleased in the indulgence of that fancy, seems always disposed 
 to distribute a portion of her own pleasure for the enjoyment 
 of any one that is able to appreciate her sentiments, or is 
 willing to participate in that flow of soul which rendered her 
 society so delectable. 
 
 Her sister partakes somewhat of her temperament in regard 
 to her feelings, when contemplating the works of nature and 
 the beauties of creation. Observant and quiet in her disposi- 
 tion, it was easy for us to trace an expression of great beauty 
 in her countenance, which was clearly indicating the Avorking 
 of a soul within. We Avill pass over the many other beauties 
 whom we had here met, each possessing individual attractions, 
 and all of them highly capable of exercising a very benevolent 
 influence in whatever sphere they may hereafter be called upon 
 to ornament. 
 
96 PRIFT THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 The following Sunday proved to be rather a stupid day for 
 us, for there was no Episcopal church in the neighborhood, 
 and we had but little satisfaction in the idle manner in wliich 
 this day was passed. At home it is a day which is always 
 welcomed ; and Ave were brought to feel what a blessing ha'l 
 been bestowed upon mankind by allotting this portion of His 
 week to rest and worship. 
 
 Monday was spent as usual, except that during the day we 
 made the acquaintance of Mr. and Mrs. Goodlove, and that of 
 the Misses WicklifFe and Alexander. 
 
 But on Tuesday morning we were awakened by the rain 
 pattering on the roof; the day, although somewhat overcast 
 in the morning, still gave out faint hopes of a bright and clear 
 sky for the afternoon. We had not been long occupied after 
 breaicfast, Avlien we were surprised at hearing of the intended 
 departure of Dr. Elliott's family. This event, which took place 
 shortly after, cast an air of despondency and gloom over our 
 party which bid fair to mar the pleasure of this day, for we 
 were all deeply affected by the departure of Miss E., — the 
 gentlemen especially, avIio had been fescinated by her winning 
 charms and manners. 
 
 Such is the nature of some of our fondest ties. We often 
 feel disposed to throw ourselves aloof from the world, and never 
 again to give utterance to those best sentiments of our nature 
 which so strongly enlist our sympathy in the hour of separation. 
 
 She was gone, never to be seen by one of us again ; perhaps 
 it is for the best that the rankling wound should be quietly 
 healed, so that the green growth of youth will more rapidly 
 close up that gaping mouth of wounds, which had otherwise 
 led to greater suffering, from the depth of its strong impres- 
 sions. Adieu ! How often Ave are reminded of Moore's Avords 
 by such parting scenes : 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 97 
 
 " 'Tis ever thus, from childhood's hour," etc. 
 
 Wednesday morning, witli desponding and agitated heart, 
 we also left Harrodsburg. Our road lay througli an interesting 
 section of the country, and our trip was made quicker than 
 any we had yet travelled over, as we rode on the outside of 
 our stage, and found means to hurry the driver (who was an 
 intelligent man), and ■we conversed together for a long time, 
 and from him obtained some useful information reffardinir the 
 treatment of horses. He observed that it Avas a very good 
 plan to give the horses a little salt as soon as they Avere put 
 into their stalls, after travelling, and never feed or water them 
 until they had been in the stable about an hour. lie said he 
 was accustomed to give his horses ashes about two or three 
 times a week ; and that during the summer ii:ionths, in June, 
 July, and August, it was a good plan to give them, twice a Aveek, 
 a mixture of salt, salts of tartar, and ashes. This had a tendency 
 to keep them cool, and their boAvels in a healthy condition ; 
 that they SAveat freely and are kept at case, and free from colic. 
 
ari)aptcr 13. 
 
 FRANKFORT, THE CAPITAL. 
 
 We arrived at Frankfort about 10 o'clock a, m., and there 
 remained waiting for the stage to take us to Madison, Ken- 
 tucky ; and, after our arrival at this point, on the south bank of 
 the Ohio river, to proceed from thence to Cincinnati. 
 
 We spent yesterday in writing to Graham, and after that we 
 went to call on Miss Elliott, Avho was now in town, but did 
 not find her at home. To-day the town has been somewhat 
 enlivened by the arrival of a circus company; much to our 
 inconvenience, however, for they have filled up every crevice ot 
 the hotel. We also visited the penitentiary, which is con- 
 ducted on a very excellent plan. The cells are kept clean, and 
 each member has an apartment to himself. They are all kept 
 busily engaged in learning some trade, and the result of their 
 labor swells the coffers of the State, and of their keepers, who 
 receive one-half. At present they are building a very hand- 
 some gateway, which is quite classic in its style of architec- 
 ture. It must be quite consoling to the criminals to know that 
 they have thus helped to construct their own abodes in this 
 prison, although many criminals before these have aided \\z 
 twisting the hemp for the rope by which they were to be hung. 
 
 So, on the same day, we presented a letter to Mr. Blackburn, 
 whom we found to be a man of very clever parts, and of a fine 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 99 
 
 education ; and were also introduced by liim to Dr. Strother, 
 of Virginia, wlio resembled ourselves in one particular; we 
 were gentlemen wlio were at large, and travelling on our OAvn 
 means, for our mutual improvement, and. wbo only settled 
 down in a place just so long as tliere was anything interesting 
 in it to detain us there, either for our instruction or amuse- 
 ment. 
 
 The situation of Frankfort is peculiarly romantic, and in 
 winter it is said to be the gayest place in the State. This is 
 owing to the meeting of the Houses of the Legislature, and 
 the attendants who always wait upon the movements of this 
 august body. 
 
 We were informed that the well-known kindness of the 
 people finds an exception in this place, especially in their deal- 
 ings with each other, so that the sobriquet title of " Kentuck 
 hospitality " has become a byword of reproach, and another 
 name for roguery and the most malicious kind of frauds; and 
 that the society of the place was now morally divided into 
 two classes, i. e., the aristocratic and rich, who have but a 
 slight political influence, but who unite with each other in sup- 
 porting their assumptions at whatever risk it may cost, and 
 without any nice scruples touching the justness of their claims ; 
 and the poor whom they cheat out of their rights ; so that the 
 privilege which the law of the State once allowed of having a 
 trial in another country is not often put into requisition, from 
 the difficulty that a poor, man experiences in getting any jus- 
 tice at his own door. This place was also the scene of a highly 
 interesting tragedy which took place about two years ago, and 
 which was narrated to us by Mr, Blackburn, by whon'. we were 
 introduced to Mr. Sharpe, who was the son of one of the 
 actors in the above-mentioned affair of a murder. In the lat- 
 ter part of the day wc went a-fishing Avith Dr. Strothers, of 
 
100 DRIFT THOUGHTS — AVIDE APAET. 
 
 Virginia, avIio lias been spending some months in this place, 
 but had no luck, although Ave were sufficiently repaid for our 
 walk by a sight at the bold banks of the Kentucky river. Then 
 we were also introduced to a Mr. Kennedy, as -well as to Mr. 
 Reynolds, Mr. Mayo, and several others, in whose company we 
 passed probably the most rational evening that we had spent 
 during our absence. After a late sitting Ave Avrote a note to 
 Graham, and on Saturday addressed a letter to Mr. StanAvard, 
 of the Gait House, and concluded this task by another letter, 
 which Avas directed to James Turnbull. Then we called on Dr. 
 Elliott, but did not have an opportunity of seeing him. We 
 spent most of the day in filling up our pencil sketches, for it 
 rained most violently in the afternoon, and avc Avere told that it 
 was probably the Avettest August that had occurred in many 
 years. 
 
 Then Ave sat down to read Mr. Marshall's speech in favor of 
 retaining The Veto Power, which proved to be a fine and manly 
 address, full of patriotism, but in some parts rather dcma- 
 gogueish in its tendencies. The Avhole of Saturday was thus 
 spent ; and after returning to my room avc made up a pleas- 
 ant game of euchre — a game of cards Avhich is peculiar to the 
 West. 
 
 On Sunday Ave called on Mrs. Mayo, in company Avith Mr. 
 Blackburn, and in the afternoon visited some of his cousins. 
 To-day the toAvn looked quite deserted, for most of the inhab- 
 itants Avere attracted out of the city by a camp-meeting, Avhich 
 had for some time been held in the vicinity, under the groves 
 of the shade-trees Avhich grew on the bank of the river. If 
 the fact of the generality and number of these revivals can be 
 adduced as a certain evidence of the increase of religion in the 
 West, there is, indeed, cause of rejoicing among the saints ; but 
 we arc afraid that the condition of public morals is far other- 
 
FRO^r THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS, 101 
 
 wise than good, if the present state of the facts in such cases 
 could be really ascertained. 
 
 On ]\Ionday evening, in company with Dr. Strother, we de- 
 parted for Madison, where we hoped to arrive in time for the 
 Louisville packet. Our road lay through an uninteresting coun- 
 try, where the surface of the roads proved to be of that rough and 
 fatiguing nature that is peculiar to a limestone region. We 
 passed through several thriving towns, but met with no incident 
 to relieve the monotony of the way, except that we found the 
 taverns by the wayside in too wretched a condition to allow us 
 to stop for the night ; so we hurried on to Madison, which we 
 reached about 4 o'clock, in the midst of a heavy rain, and were 
 fortunate enough to find the boat just passing round the bend 
 of the river, which stretched its curve before the INfadison land- 
 ing. 
 
 From thence we had a delightful trip up the river, and had 
 the pleasure of seeing one of the most magnificent sunsets, 
 which are so much enhanced in beauty by the deep and 
 solemn drapery of the scenery which was then gorgeously 
 lighted up by the lingeiing golden rays of the sun's glaring 
 ball of red, whilst it was sinking away behind the last purple 
 shadows which were cast on the bluifs. 
 
€l)aptev 14. 
 
 COVINGTON — THE FAIR. 
 
 Although wc arrived at Cincinnati during the night, we did 
 not land until morning. Once on shore, you may be sure that 
 Ave were delighted at the first view we caught of this charming 
 town, which is so Avell named the " Queen of the West,'''' and 
 surpassing any of the Western cities in size and beauty. After 
 our arrival we spent the morning in visiting several portions of 
 the town with Dr. Strother; and, at breakfast, were surprised 
 to find Mr. Mali, who was one of our neighbors near the county 
 seat in Bloomingdale, and from him obtained the latest news 
 from home. The forenoon of Wednesday was spent in visiting 
 the ladies whose acquaintance we had made on a previous visit, 
 and we regretted to find that some of the most interesting had 
 left the city, and were then at the cave. However, we took 
 the opportunity of presenting Dr. Strother to their acquaint- 
 ance, and then proceeded to procure some material aid for 
 ourselves. So, on Wednesday, we succeeded in negotiating a 
 draft for $75, and received the amount in gold, for which favor 
 wc are indebted to Mr. King, when Dr. Strother left us for Vir- 
 ginia on the " Sciota Bell." 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 103 
 
 We spent tliis evening in the company of Miss Stewart, who 
 is one of the noblest women we have ever known. Her talents 
 and accomplishments are of a superior order. Unfortunateh 
 she was early left without a mother; and from the want of the 
 guidance which that parent alone is capable of affording a 
 daughter, her conduct has been quite independent of the cen- 
 sure of the public, and entirely regardless of the opinion of 
 others. She is an exceedingly amusing companion, and we 
 shall always reflect with pleasure on the noble and disinterested 
 Hcts of kindness which she exhibited towards us during our so- 
 journ in that city. 
 
 Most of our time was spent in the usual routine of visits 
 and letter-Avriting. But on one Friday afternoon we started 
 forth with Mr. Mali for Cartilage ; and, as we had both intended 
 to visit the mass-meeting which was to occur on the next day, 
 seized this opportunity of going together, in order to better 
 enjoy the sport. So, on the evening prior to the day of the 
 fair, we went to make a call on some of his friends, whom he 
 had known in Europe, and drove up to a pleasant little farm- 
 house, which was situated about a mile from the village, and 
 after waiting a short time, we saw the gentleman of whom we 
 were in quest, the particulai's of whose history we after- 
 wards learnt, as follows : Mr. and Mdme. de Fellhorn were 
 European, and possessed of a little property which they 
 were desirous to invest to the best advantage. The Catholic 
 Bishop of Ohio, having known their intentions, induced and 
 finally prevailed upon them to purchase a farm in the vicinity 
 of Cincinnati, which they afterwards did, and have since re- 
 gretted the act. Mr. De Thiers, a young man formerly con- 
 nected with some of the cabinets of Europe, having been dis- 
 missed for some breach of trust connected with the secrecy of 
 his office, sunk down w^ith chagrin, resolved to unite his for- 
 
104 DRIFr THOUGHTS WIDE APART. 
 
 tunes with tlie above couple, aud in their company came to 
 this country for the purpose of trying his fortunes. At the 
 instance of Bishop Purcell, they purchased this farm, and have 
 now resided here three years. Monsieur had evidently been ii 
 excellent society ; but what a change from the gay circles of 
 Paris ! Here they are in the midst of strangers, scarcely pos- 
 sessing a proper use of our language, and the victims of an 
 avaricious and greedy neighborhood. Much of the interest 
 which we took in them was lost from the manner in which 
 they have treated young De Thiers. They came here to make 
 fortunes, but they liave not taken the proper means ; and if they 
 can obtain a mere livelihood, it should content them ; and if in 
 the event of more favorable times, they can sell their property 
 without too great a sacrifice, they would be much happier in 
 Paris. 
 
 On Saturday, 3d, wc rode over to the village for the purpose 
 of attending the mass-meeting, and arrived there just as the 
 deleo-ates were arrivino- from Cincinnati. The sig-ht of the 
 aquatic procession which moved along the canal, was novel 
 and beautiful indeed, for each boat bore the name of the owner, 
 and was decorated with appropriate devices ; and when the 
 passengers had landed on the banks, they formed a pro- 
 cession and marched to the grove. We passed on from the 
 canal to the hotel, and having secured a favorable position on 
 the balcony, observed the procession as it passed along to the 
 parks. Most of the trades had their proper places in its ranks ; 
 and wheelwrights, blacksmiths, etc., were seen with all their 
 implements of trade, while they paraded through the streets 
 in bodies of stage-wagons, omnibuses, and carriages, boarded 
 over on wheels, which were drawn by teams of horses. Short- 
 ly after we moved to the spot where the stands had been 
 erected for the speakers, and having located ourselves within 
 
TROM TUK SKA TO THK SUIIMITS. 105 
 
 the limits of the aniphitlieatre of tlie camp-ground, there fomid 
 an hnmense crowd collected, who were eagerly listeiung to a 
 Mr. Clark, avIio had been a member of the secret legislature 
 of this State. He spoke quite well, and very fluently, but as 
 his remarks were too statistical, they were not very interesting 
 to us. A severe deluge of rain put an end to his remarks, and 
 the meeting adjourned in the most confused and hurried man- 
 ner. We were somewhat surprised to find ladies on the 
 grounds, for although it is customary for them to attend bar- 
 l)ccnes, they are not quite proper spectators at such political 
 meetings. 
 
 We returned from this scene of political action to the hotel, 
 when the hour of dinner was announced. It was amusing to 
 see the eagerness with which the loads of vituals that had 
 been phiced on the board, were attacked ; and we can compare 
 it to nothing but the rushing of a torrent down the mountain's 
 si<le, or the headlong bursting of waters in the vicinity of an 
 opened mill dam's gate. We then walked through the place 
 where the dinner had been provided for the crowd, but had 
 barely time to reach the end of the building, before everything 
 on the tables had been swept away, and left as desolate as the 
 Land of Egypt, after the visitation of a swarm of locusts. We 
 succeeded, however, in obtaining sufficient food to allay the 
 cravings of an excited appetite, and after wading ankle -deep in 
 the mud, managed to get back to the hotel. 
 
 There we were fortunate enough to meet Mr. Rives and 
 several gentlemen from Cincinnati, whose common fate gave 
 us an opportunity of exciting their sympathy ; and after hav- 
 ing witnessed several incipient attempts to get up a fight, 
 which were fortunately nipped in the bud, we accompanied 
 Mr. Rives to the grove, where we arrived in time to hear the 
 principal portion of Gov. Corwin's speech, which gratified us 
 
106 DRIFT THOUGHTS — WIDE APART. 
 
 exceedingly. He certainly well understands the true manner 
 of addressing a general assembly. This man is another instance 
 of the many who have risen to eminence from poverty. He 
 began life as a wagon-boy, and has several times distinguished 
 himself in his political career, and at present is considered as 
 one of the most prominent men of this country. 
 
 About 4 o'clock we ordered our horses to be brought round 
 to the hotel, which was soon done, and in a few minutes we 
 were on our return to Cincinnati. We had a delightful ride 
 back to the city, for the rain had allayed its force and the dust, 
 and had added a freshness to the verdure, and all wei'c now 
 somewhat invigorated by the refreshing breezes which blew 
 about us, so that about five o'clock in the afternoon we had 
 reached town ; and from thence continued our ride along the 
 banks of the river as far as Harrison's old homestead, which 
 was situated on a point of land about ten miles from the city, 
 within a few yards of the Ohio. 
 
 On Sunday morning we attended church, and listened to a 
 good sermon on the vanity of human wishes, and in the even- 
 ing made a call on Mi-. and Mrs. Springer, but did not find 
 them at home; so that on the following Monday we had made 
 up our minds to depart, and went on board the " Swiftsure,"' 
 to secure a berth, but as she was too crowded for comfort, this 
 determined us to wait for the next favorable opportunity. 
 
 Mr. Mali took his leave of us and returned home, via Col- 
 umbus and the Lakes. Mr. Moeller called on us, and from him 
 we heard that Miss Carneal had returned from her visit to 
 New Orleans. So we called on her and Miss Reeves, and in 
 their society spent the morning quite pleasantly. In the 
 afternoon, accompanied by Mr. Foote, we rode out over the 
 Walnut Hills to Mr. Granden's; and on the way had renewed 
 cause to admire the beautiful vicinity of the city, and to view 
 
FROJr THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 10/ 
 
 this " Queen of the West," as she stretched her many houses 
 under the shadow of her liills. In a short time wc passed the 
 Lane Seminary, and shortly after reached the estate of Mr. 
 Granden. We drove up to the mansion liouse, but Avere dis- 
 appointed in not seeing the owner of this beautiful villa. So 
 we left our names, and soon obtained permission from the 
 housekeeper to view the grounds. ' It is certainly the most 
 commanding site for a summer residence that could be desired. 
 The house is situated on one of the high bluffs of the Ohio, 
 and the foliage of noble trees was spread out before the man- 
 sion in the foreground, and so the house seemed as if it were 
 situated on an island in the woods of Arden ; whilst on 
 either side the landscapes, glowing with cheerful prospect from 
 the noble forms of the beeches, gild the green branches that 
 wave beneath the shadow of the cliffs in great masses 
 of rich beauty. On one side, the level fiats of the banks of 
 the Ohio stretched themselves out like a green carpet beyond 
 the bluffs ; on the other side of and seen from the river, this 
 declivity was limited only by a most pleasing succession f f 
 hills, which crowned the margins of the opposite banks ; 
 whilst between both sides, the river was seen swelling along 
 on its winding v/ay, as it is flowing sluggishly under the hills 
 in its meandering course ; while the landscape of the furrowed 
 soils seemed fertile in products of the rich farms to perfect the 
 view Avith the bright aspect of the villages of Covington and 
 Newport, as they were from thence dimly observed in the dis- 
 tance. What could be more charming ? The last rays of the 
 setting sun had tinged the Avhole surface of nature Avith that 
 sombre hue of twilight, Avhich is at once melancholy and 
 pleasing — that brings the mind into a fit state for con- 
 templation, by assimilating it to the bright starlight 
 heaven, with meditations moving akin to those which Isfiac 
 
108 DRIFT TIIOUGIJTS WIDE APART. 
 
 was supposed to have enjoyed in tlie fields, when he wa? 
 thinking about the fair Rebecca. The dark greens of the 
 forests flourishing on the forms of the mountains, cast their 
 dusky shadows on the hmdscape, and the rich purple clouds 
 of sunset completely furnished with splendor the deep and 
 gorgeous drapery which was enveloped to dissolve all further 
 in revelations to our vision from this mount of happy delight. 
 
 At about 8 o'clock we returned to town ; and, after having ar- 
 ranged our toilets, proceeded to visit Miss Carneal's residence, 
 where we found several persons assembled, all in the highest 
 spirits, for most of them had recently returned from a visit to 
 the cave, and our conversation turned chiefly on the great cor- 
 ridor of created wonders, while Miss Carneal gratified us by 
 singing some of her favorite airs in her peculiarly sweet style. 
 
 Tuesday morning was spent in making a round of visits, for 
 we found some of the ladies at home ; and in the afternoon 
 dined at Mr. Charles Springer's, in company with Miss Febiger 
 and Mocller, where we greatly enjoyed the repast. Having 
 spent an agreeable hour in conversation with Mrs. Springer, 
 who is certainly an amiable and pleasant woman, we in the 
 evening made up a small party to attend the circus ; but the 
 performances were too tedious and wearisome to make them at 
 all attractive to any of our party. 
 
 On my return to the hotel we found a note from Mr. Tillot- 
 son, who desired an interview. After having sat some time in 
 the court-yard in the rear of the bar-room, listening to some 
 very brutal and ungentlemanly remarks, we ascended into the 
 chamber of Mr. Foote, where we waited his arrival. After a short 
 time he entered, and told us that the object of his mission was 
 to warn us against any remarks we might hear of a similar 
 character to those we had just listened to in the rear of tliebar- 
 roojn. We then spoke of the event of Miss Stewart's marriage, 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 109 
 
 which Avas to take place in about a fortnight. He certainly is 
 a noble fellow, and his advice had been quite serviceable to us. 
 We returned soon after to our room, with a determination to 
 leave the next morning in company with the Rev. Mr. Johns, 
 and Mr. and Mrs. Chase, and on the same boat on which they 
 had proposed to depart. 
 
 So on Wednesday, the 6th, we packed up and made several 
 visits previous to leaving, and at about 11 o'clock we were on 
 board the " Orpheus," bound for Pittsburg. We rather re- 
 gretted to leave a place where we had for.med many pleasant 
 acquaintances, and where we had opened a new page in our ex- 
 istence ; and hope that this lesson had been well learned which 
 may tend to our future advantage, that " a still tongue maketh 
 a wise head." 
 
 \Ve had a most delightful trip up the Ohio, for, among other 
 passengers who were on board, was a Miss IMorton, a young 
 artist of great natural genius, and who, with a little more culti- 
 vation, will stand quite eminent in her profession. We Avere 
 now introduced to the Rev. Dr. Johns, who was on board, and 
 found him an exceedingly interesting and agreeable man. He 
 was quite pleasant and communicative, and without that degree 
 of reserve and moroseness of assumed dignity which most clergy- 
 men throw around themselves, which they believe necessary to 
 guard their own sense of their self-esteem, but which frequently 
 \anishes when you come to knoAV too much about some of the 
 capers which they enact behind the scenes where they per- 
 form the high mask of the rituals. 
 
<III)aptcv 13. 
 
 GUYANDOTTE AND HAWK'S NEST. 
 
 On Thursday afternoon wc arrived at Guyaudotte, at which 
 place -we had determined to take a stage soon after landing, 
 and return liomc by way of the Virginia Springs; but unfortu- 
 nately after we had got on shore it was discovered that we 
 should be delayed tliere two days ; for the stage bad departed 
 that morning, and gave us the slip. But as Mr. Kives was oui' 
 companion in misfortune, it was easy for us to find certaiii 
 sources of consolation ; and for tlie first two hours avc stretclied 
 our invention to discover ways in whicb to pass away our time 
 and divert our attention during this interval, so as to keep us 
 from dying of ennui over our very peculiar situation. So we 
 first endeavored to find out tbe state of the society, so far as 
 regards the number of the ladies in this city, and having 
 learned it to be well supplied with beauty and cultivation and 
 grace of manners, to furnish a resource in case of need, w^e be- 
 came quite reconciled ; and by dint of fishing, orchard-rob- 
 bing, smoking, and euchre, Ave managed to get rid of the time, 
 which otherwise might have been insupportable for these two 
 days, which would have lain heavily on our hands, if we should 
 have failed in beconung acquainted with any of the ladies of 
 this interesting abode terrestrial. 
 
 Then on Saturday, the 9th, we started fur Charlcstown ; but 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS'. Ill 
 
 as wc had an ovcrloadei eoacl), it proved to be an uncomtbrt- 
 able day's ride. There was scarcely anything to relieve the 
 monotony of the journey, for the scenery was not of an inter 
 csting nature, nor were our companions inside the coach of the 
 most interesting or enlightened class of characters in the world. 
 
 On our lide we stopped at a sulphur spring, where we ob- 
 tained a good draught of fine mineral water ; and about dinner- 
 time we caught glimpses of the river and Kanawha cliffs, 
 which seemed to lend a charm to the scenery, and served to 
 beguile this tediously long day's travel. 
 
 About 9 o'clock, p. M., we reached the banks of the Kanawha 
 river, and were soon ferried over the stream to Charlcstown. 
 Hei'e we passed the night, if it could be so termed, for avo 
 wore awakened up out of a sound sleep at about 3 o'clock on 
 the morning of Tuesday, the 1 0th ; and, in the hurry of our de- 
 parture, we forgot to bring away the keys of our trunks, which 
 had been left under our pillows for safety, in our absence of 
 uiind, but we were fortunate in finding them afterwards, and 
 were thus restored to a happy state. 
 
 At a distance of about twenty miles from Charlcstown, we 
 obtained a view of the mountainous country of Virginia. The 
 scenery alone of this route was the chief object of attraction ; 
 the country was thinly inhabited, and the houses sparse and 
 scattered among the hills. Our attention was first drawn to 
 the beautiful and romantic cliffs which bound the course of the 
 Kanawha, and several glimpses which we caught of the river 
 from the top of the hills, reminded us strikingly of the moun- 
 tain and lake scenery of Scotland. We soon reached the 
 " Kanawha Falls," where the features of the landscape were 
 quite striking. The cliffs rise majestically on both sides of the 
 river, which lashes its waters into foaming beads with beauty 
 over its rocky bed ; whilst the gaps in the mountains reveal 
 
112 DKIFT THOUGHTS AVIDE APART, 
 
 tlic distant prospect of the rugged ridges and heavy bhifFs be 
 yond. Our road tlien passed for a great distance in the vicini- 
 ty and Avithin sight of the river. The cliffs from this point 
 arc called the *• New River Cliffs ; " and as they rose sometimes 
 to a very great height above the bed of the stream, we occa- 
 sionally obtained some of the most beautiful glimpses of the 
 river and the mountains, as they stretched their running course 
 in the distance. 
 
 For some portion of its path the road was walled up on one 
 side by the most bold and picturesque castellated rocks imagin- 
 alile ; and as you view the summit of these rocky peaks, where 
 they rise almost perpendicularly above the road, they seemed 
 like the bastions and battlements of antediluvian ramparts or 
 rocky, fortress-like fortifications. This characteristic feature in 
 these fastnesses of the rocks is peculiarly observable in the vicin- 
 ity of the " Falls," and for some miles beyond they are called 
 " The Hanging Rocks," at about where we left them behind 
 us ; until at about noon we rode into the neighborhood of the 
 " Hawk's Nest," where we stopped to admire ; and having let 
 down the steps of the coach, walked a short distance from 
 the road to view this strikingly interesting spot. We here 
 stood upon a shelving rock, which projected over the ravine be" 
 low, and gazed Avith rapture upon the grand landscape Avhich 
 lay under our feet. The mountains rose most majestically be- 
 fore our eyes, and gracefully extended their forms as fav as the 
 keenest vision could reach ; Avhilst the river, which glistened like 
 a silver crescent, Avas Avinding its course at the foot of an am- 
 phitheatre of rugged mountains, which were covered with the 
 richest growth of forest trees imaginable, Avhose appearance, 
 while the massive belts of the greenwood groves diminished 
 in the distance, seemed like Alpine cliffs covered Avith a real 
 species of velvet moss. Our minds became filled Avith the 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 113 
 
 highest and loftiest sentiments which can alone be excited by 
 the grandeur and sublimity of natural scenery ; and as we gazed 
 on the unlimited landscape which stretched itself in belts of 
 unmingled beauty and richness before the enraptured sight, we 
 felt that cur absorbed contemplation of the spot was only such 
 an appropriate tribute of devotion and fragrant incense as was 
 solely worthy to be offered in the houses which had been erect- 
 ed for the True AVorship of His Majestijy Avhose buildings were 
 not made with hands. 
 
 About four o'clock we reached our dining-place, and for the 
 rest of the day the interest of the journey decreased. On our 
 route we met with an odd specimen of one of the mountain- 
 eers of this region, and we admit how he quite amused us with 
 the accounts of his skill in shooting, and that he attrib- 
 uted his proficiency in the use of his ritle to a magnetic influ- 
 ence. Such, no doubt, has been his faith in the use of this 
 metallic weapon, that he has been quite forgetful of the amomit 
 of his indebtedness to a long practice and a very keen eye- 
 sight, lie also told us of a water-wheel which he had invented, 
 which was singular in the principle of its being able to turn 
 against the force of the current of a stream, and that it had 
 been proved to have been quite successful as a fish-net. He 
 was then on his way to a market for the sale of the wonderful 
 article, where he expected to meet with some one person from 
 whom he might have the opportunity of winning some money 
 for his witty discovery. AVe rather encouraged his idea, for 
 many a Yankee before him has pocketed much more gold with 
 less wit. He was a tall, muscular man, somewhat advanced in 
 years, for his hair inclined to gray ; his eyes were small, with a 
 fine, well-marked expression of shrewdness and humor in his face. 
 
 AVe stopped during the night at the top of Mount Suel, but 
 found the hotel crowded, and we had our option of sleeping 
 
114 DRIFT THOUGHTS AVIDE ArART. 
 
 either on the floor or in the stage. Our companions preferred 
 the latter ; and after having smoked all onr cigars and wrapped 
 ourselves well up in our overcoats, we were soon so snuglv 
 euscoused in the corner of our coach that in a few moments vrc 
 were embraced in the arms of Morpheus. We awoke in the morn- 
 ing quite refi'eshed by our slumbers, and quite satisfied with the 
 novel style of our sleeping-couch, and soon after breakfast 
 started for the Warm Springs. Our road lay through an 
 uninteresting section of the country ; in fact, most of the 
 western sections of this country arc rather wild and imculti 
 vated; and, Avith the exception of a few mountain views of 
 interest, there is little Avhich is calculated to withdraw the mind 
 from its oavu sombre reflections over its conditionary and pro- 
 bationary state as a life in the wilderness. We were quite 
 gratified with a specimen of banjo-playing ; which, as it Avas 
 the first time that Ave had ever listened to the notes of this 
 peculiarly Ethiopian instrument, served in a measure to beguile 
 the tediousness of the ride. 
 
 AVe passed on Avithout any further object of interest, until 
 we reached the top of the mountain which surmounts the Valley 
 of the .Blue Sulphur. From this point the views Avcre truly 
 grand and beautiful. After having dispatched an excellent 
 diimer at the springs, and drank a glass of the Avatcr, Ave pro- 
 ceeded onward to LcAvisburg. Our road from thence Avas 
 somcAvhat more rugged and broken than any we had yet 
 travelled over, and passed through some of the wildest ridges 
 of these spurs of the Alleghanies. 
 
 About six o'clock Ave drove into Lewisburg, the county seat. 
 The lands in the vicinity are somewhat more cultivated than 
 any other section that we had yet observed, and of course lent 
 a peculiar beauty to some of the landscapes Avhich Ave saw 
 from the mountain-tops. 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. 115 
 
 Shortly after six o'clock, p.m., avc left Lewisburg for the 
 White Sulphur ; we then passed through a very rolling valley, 
 which lies between the AUeghanies and the Blue Ridge, and 
 had several glimpses of the mountains in the distance. The 
 sunset was strangely beautiful, and lent its enchanting influ- 
 ence to the scenery around us. As soon as the sunset had re- 
 signed its influence, the bright moon cast its soft and melancholy 
 light over the landscape, so that our ride to the Sulphur Springs 
 was one of the most interesting which we had yet travelled. 
 
 The springs presented a most beautiful appearance by moon- 
 light. The country in the vicinity is exceedingly striking and 
 bold, whilst the long line of neat white cottages presented a 
 pleasant contrast to the dark and bold outlines of the sur- 
 rounding hills. Most of tbe company had departed ; in fact, 
 watering places have generally been thinly attended this 
 year. 
 
 Next morning we left the Springs about dawn. Tbe weather 
 began to be quite unpleasant, and at night the rain fell, so that 
 the atmosphere was quite moderated, which rendered this day's 
 ride rather more pleasant than the preceding. About 2 o'clock 
 we approached the Hot Springs, and in a short time after dined 
 at the Warm Springs. We continued our journey onward 
 towards Cloversdale, and just as the sun was sitting reached the 
 White Sulphur Mountains, where one of the finest panoramas 
 is to be seen. We reached Cloversdale, where we stopped 
 during the night. Next morning Ave started for Charlottesville. 
 Staunton is one of the most important towns on this route. It 
 contains a fine building which is allotted to the Lunatics, also 
 an Institution to the Deaf and Dumb. The rain fell during 
 tlic whole day, which made our ride quite unpleasant. We 
 reached Charlottesville about 9 o'clock, p. m., where we stopped 
 for the night and part of the succeeding day. Here we parted 
 
116 DRIFT THOUGHTS — AVIDE APART. 
 
 with our friend Oldham, who is about to en«^er the prej^arato 
 ry school, where we left him in order to pursue his theologi- 
 cal studies at Princeton. 
 
 PERORATION. 
 
 And now having returned so near to the borders of the At- 
 lantic coast, and within full sight of the sea-shore, we will cast 
 all our thoughts adrift, and say to our readers (if any such shall 
 have had the patience to endure the burden of this accumulat- 
 ed mass of reflections and scittcred notes), then we will have 
 the candor to confess, that they will thereby have exhibited 
 greater fortitude than any other class of people whom we may 
 have known to 1)0 " alive and kicking," since the year of our 
 Lord 1842, which has been enumerated in this title-page, as 
 well as under that on the new fly-leaf of the Summits ; from 
 the selection of which name wc were obliged to back out in 
 order to make a full book — -at this end : While performing thi:) 
 last feat, wliich might suggest that of the doublc-soinerset ; for 
 an author resembles at times a juggler of legerdemain ; and per- 
 haps that his mania, if he w riteth a light book, becomes a 
 ca.cosihes scribendi ; and this more so when a disease which 
 sometimes sticks to a man like the itch, is hard to be gotten 
 rid of. 
 
 Per contra^ we hope we have accomplished it gracefully; at 
 least without either having dropped our hat or cane on the floor ; 
 and " if you don't see it," then we wall have obtained the summit 
 of our ambition, which was to gather up both ends of the skein 
 in one fast knot, in order to make all ends meet, and thus bind 
 together our "Drift Thoughts,^'' which are so very wide apart^ 
 under one cover ; and then afterwards hide our head from pub- 
 lic gaze, under the sheets, as if it were hidden under the bed 
 
FROM THE SEA TO THE SUMMITS. Ml 
 
 of the sea, and as Jeep as ever the ostrich of the wilderness, 
 who hides her head in the sands, and while she buries her eggs, 
 is blind to the approach of the wily hunter, Avho in his chase 
 over the plains will be sure to shoot the poor bird from the 
 beaded suvimit of his sharp-shooter ; for she seems to have for- 
 gotten that her tail was out. 
 
 Be this as it may, we are very careful for nothing about the 
 whole matter. The gatherings up of these sketches of the 
 past have served somewhat to employ many hours which might 
 otherwise have been idly spent. We trust that they may have 
 served to amuse some, whilst they may either have soothed oi* 
 flattered, but we hope Avill not distress others. Whichever re- 
 sult happens, we are quite indifferent; and we now throw these 
 miscellaneous wool-gatherings into the vast elements of space, 
 and pray that no harm may happen from any foolish words 
 that may have escaped either our own notice or that of the 
 printer's devil. 
 
 FAREWELL. 
 
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 310 8B 
 

 
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 HECKMAN 
 BINDERY INC. |^ 
 
 AUG 88 
 
 N. MANCHESTER, 
 
 INDIANA 46962 <^* r> _-