1 .vL^L'*. "> O. AT *v <& *y o^ §*• ^ % v -* ^ *+ m JH3 VA 1 ^^ 4 *b^" .^ ar- '^o^ jp^ ^0^ 4 o '%* 'V %.' '\' : K:%* J>.'J3LL:^ >..:•.-.*<&. A o*..i^-.% /-> t. '* ^\ •: <. *,m of Bishop,'* Watson's seat; Pro- fessor Wilson's cottage, and dined at the Royal Hotel at Bowness, a capital inn ; took rails and returned to Kendal at 9, P. M., an exquisite day, spent amid very fine mountain scenery, more like our Catskill range, studded with fine country seats, and interlaced with glorious lakes. 14th. — At about 8, A. M., took rails to Manchester, passing through the finest scenery in Lancashire, Moreombe bay, Lancaster, and its castle, so famous in the days of DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 35 King John, and Preston. An Iron Master got in my car at Wigan ; his firm, he said, now employ six thousand opera- tives, at an expense of one thousand pounds per day ; he was a Director in the North British Railway Company; their capital is twenty-eight millions sterling, and their last dividend ten per cent. Shares low — worth two hundred and five, but sell now one hundred and fifty. Lunched at the Albion, Manchester, and took rails at twenty-five minutes past 1, P. M., for Sheffield ; fine scenery on the road, and highly cultured ; town is horrible ; drove through to Baslow twelve miles off. The country now rises into the grand peak of Derbyshire, with the loveliest of valleys. The Wheat Sheaf Inn is the perfection of a rural inn ; it is at the gateway to the park of the Palace of Chatsworth. Mr. Francis H., of New York came up to my parlor to see me; he was just then leaving for town. After tea took a delightful stroll in the neighborhood, through its quiet lanes, rich fields, and beautiful prospects. 15th. — Started early in a pony phaeton to Thorn Bridge, to Mr. M.'s house, a fine old mansion ; was kindly received, engaged to dine and church with them to-morrow ; walked with Mr. M. over to Monsell Dale, a picturesque vale near by. Started back to be in time for the gates to open at Chatsworth Palace. Obtained an order through Mr. M. from Miss Paxton, to see the interior of the conservatory, then drove up to the north entrance of the palace. The house is some three hundred feet long by one hundred and 36 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. ninety feet deep, of pure Ionic style; the ornaments are urns, and on the freize, a snake in the grass, the crest of Cavendish. The first room you enter is on the left side of the first inner court, and the whole stone work is of the same fine light drab color, much like that of Durham Cathedral. This room is called the Sub-Hall, and has a tesselated pave- ment, and a grand fresco on the ceiling, by Verrio, of Caesar's History. The slab of Derby marble on the centre table, cande- labrum, grand stairs of Derby marble and spar ; the effect of this room is superb ; next passed through a long corridor sur- rounding a second court. Here are antique busts, tesselated pavements from Pompeii, and Roman tombs. (Returning from Thornbridge passed the Earl of Newburgh in a low pony chaise, his servant walking at his side, plain coarse man ; his seat is Hassop Hall, near by and in view.) Be- fore entering this last corridor, passed through the ante room, with statuary of Venus in the Bath ; Dolphins sup- port it, throwing water into a large basin, with other foun tains on the sides. Hence into magnificent Painting Galle- ries, perhaps of five hundred paintings, large and small, chiefly by the masters ; a gem of Bacchus and Ariadne, the Monks at Prayer, Mercury teaching Cupid to read, some Watteau's ; Bolton Abbey, by Landseer ; portraits of the Duchess of Devonshire of the time of Charles James Fox, very sprightly and handsome ; of Lady Carlisle ; the Hon. Mrs. Norton, and of several of the dukes hang in the room used by the queen on her late visit here ; then to the chapel ; DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 37 its sides are of cedar wood, with exquisite carvings, by Gib- bons ; gallery in the west end, opening on the State apart- ments, with deep recess in similar carving ; here are two chairs occupied by the Queen and Prince Albert at their late visit. The ceiling is one superb painting of the ascension of our Lord ; His face beams with benignity : hosts of angels hover about him, all of life size ; a glory falls on all ; the uppermost angel to the right has so divine a face as cannot be forgot ; it is by Verrio. On the sides above the cedar panels, is a splendid painting of Christ healing the sick, extending all around, all the figures of full life size like a Cartoon. The altar piece is in fine fresco, in a recessed arch of variegated Derbyshire marble ; within it is also a table of Malachite given by the present Russian Empress to the Duke of De- vonshire ; a grand altar ; brazen candelabra from Italy ; floor of tess elated Derby marbles ; no pews, but cedar cushioned chairs are arranged on the sides; then entered the suite of the State apartments, some six grand rooms running along the south front, one hundred and ninety feet in all in length. In the ante chamber, say of thirty feet, is a square painting of Titian's Venetian Council, and a portrait of Queen Mary of Scots ; Ruben's Rabbi ; Hol- bein's Henry the Eighth ; all in full size, and grand frames ; for the mantel piece are caryatides, great mirrors, and tesse- lated oak floor ; walls are of gilded leather, and an emboss- ed ceiling in white and gold ; drawing room of similar floor pavement ; walls of Beauvois silk tapestry ; and with grand 38 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. candelabra ; the Belisarius, twelve by six feet in dimension, and other paintings. On a group of ottomans, lies a small medallion marble group of four angels fallen asleep, ex- quisite. L Here is the coronation chair of William IV., and that of his Queen ; in a corner is a small round table of Jasper ; in its centre is a moonlit view of Chatsworth ; and the border contains views of the Peak District ; the upholstery of the furniture is of the Beauvois silk, and the chairs of Canter- bury silk were bought of Manners Sutton ; next room, same floor, sides of Lyon's silk ; furniture likewise ; upholstery and ceiling in blue and gold. The dining hall, with carvings of dead game, by Gibbons, over the mantel and around the mirror ; and so on from room to room, each differing in grandeur, to the cabinet, where hang some exquisite Mosaic, done on laminated glass, a case of superb medallion minia- tures, also a glass case of wood carving, of a point lace col- lar and dead birds, by Gibbons ; his masterpiece ; all these rooms are adorned with his carvings ; the doorways face each other, and the view through the suite is splendid ; the windows, each of two sheets of plate glass, set in gilt, face the grand fountain, two hundred feet high. It would take q, volume to describe each room minutely; they are all hung with paintings by the Martins, Vandyck, Charles I., George IV., William IV., Duke of Devonshire, etc., set in elegant frames, gilded and carved with the flowers of the Peak. Next to the Library ; its floor is of tesselated oak — perhaps fifteen thousand books in superb gilt frames, and very DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 39 choice — tables of Derbyshire spar ; grand revolving study table ; furniture of red morocco, a fine gilt gallery, and all around are secret staircases ; books in similar cases around the room j ceiling panelled in white and gold, with two ex- quisite medallion paintings, of the Night and Morning — Car- eA/ ra^a marble caryatides, and Jasper Vases ; ante room is full of books ; new imitated antique vases ; pedestals and statu- ary ; the Library room is sixty feet long. The arches of the doors here, as elsewhere through the house, are magnificent and lofty, of variegated Derbyshire marble, and highly orna- mented with garlands of flowers, etc. Next to the right hand is the double room of sketches, by the masters, and water color drawings ; not generally shown here are one thousand sketches, all finely arranged, in gilt frames, in suites according to the birth-place of the artist ; Roman, Bolognese, etc. There are portraits of Tasso, and Leo X. a Transfiguration, a figure by Murillo, in charcoal, on two squares, in red crayon, and over it some bandits, by Giulio Romano, and Salvator Rosa, and the dying Leo ; a Mosaic Pompeii table, and also one made of the Peak marble, and of gems ; exquisite painting of birds on brown paste-board ; in the State Drawing Room is a round Siberian marble table set with precious stones, in flowers, etc. Next went to the Sculpture Gallery of superb Derby stone, with vaulted apartments lit in the top arch ; at the entrance is the Dis- cobolus, Mars, and Cupid, Ganymede, Endymion, Cupid ex- tracting a thorn from the foot of Venus, is most exquisite in 40 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. the God's expression of love and tenderness ; a divine Achilles wounded; Lucidora flying from discovery, (from Thomson's seasons,) by Gott, and also Lucidora descending to the water ; the Filatrice, Hebe, Bacchante, stretched on her breasts ; with serpent ornament, and a fine head of Apol- lo. Two great lions lie at the doorway, one erect, the other Bleeping; and this is not an enumeration of one half. All these superb statues, some copies and others, original, are set on porphyry altar bases, or granite pedestals. Next to the great and second dining hall, the floor is of tesselated oak ; ceiling is vaulted, and pannelled of oak and'gold ; one grand table of black oak, thirty feet long : here is the Queen's chair, a little elevated ; two richly sculptured white marble mantels, each supported by two Bacchantes of full size : two of the bacchantes are by Westmacott, the female pressing the grapes, is perhaps the finest ; four side tables, two at each end, of Siberian jasper, studded with gems. Bufletts and mirrors on the sides, with gold and silver, and superb candelabra ; next to the Orangery, (the exquisite bas-relief, by Thorwaldsen, of Night and Morning, I forgot to mention is in the Sculpture Gallery.) This, the orangery, is a grand glass apartment ; many rare species of oranges are here; on the wall is a Venus, etc., a beautiful original; hence to the hot houses of Camelias ; several hundred varieties in full bloom ; next under grand arches, and through an exquisite garden, laid out in the French style ; statues on pillars, which adorn the Fountain of the Court yard DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 41 Colossi of iron, and vases from Thebes, to the Great Conservatory; a glass house, some sixty feet high, and roofed with ribs of glass, covering one acre entire, crowded with exotics, and each plant growing in its native soil : here are great Agaves, Palms, Oranges, and Vines of Passion Flowers running along the roof, and all within is arranged for drives, through which the Duke drove the Queen and suite in pony cars, on their late visit here nearly round the whole interior, and a gallery of light bronze work, fine pillars of bronze supporting it. The atmosphere is as that of the tropics ; the smoke of the furnaces is carried off by under- ground pipes over the hill near half a mile off, where also is the great Reservoir, sixteen feet deep, covering forty-one acres, which supplies the numerous fountains. On my way just past the house, on the south side from a height three hundred feet, near by the terrace and Temple and rock work the park keeper let on the water, and in a few minutes, it came tumbling and foaming down the Ter- races, passing at my feet for some one hundred yards to the Great Fountain, two hundred feet high, which soon began to play. Everywhere about the grounds are exquisite statuary and fountains ; near here is a grand staircase, leading to the rock work, near the Conservatory, lined with Irish yews ; on your left, facing the beautiful east front of the Palace rises a lofty Hunting Tower, on the summit of the hill ; embracing the Tower, and stretching away as far as the eye can reach, spreads a superb forest, now clothed in the 42 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. richest and most finely varied spring verdue ; the eye fol- lows it till the vale is closed in by some of the far off hills of Derbyshire. Returning, walked through the Park, which is eleven miles in extent, enclosing several villages, and Game- keepers', Huntsmens', Gardeners', Grooms', etc. Lodges, built by the Duke, and some inns built by him. Passed the river Derwent, which flows through it; and some three or four hundred deer ; the duke is said to own two thou- sand. Came back to my inn, after having spent some five hours at the Palace, quite exhausted. The Duke of Devon- shire employs constantly to take charge of this Palace and Park, nearly three hundred persons. He has Chiswick and other seats in England and the continent, beside this ; he was then abroad — a bachelor — has not been at the Palace two weeks in fifteen months past, and certainly from these evi- dences of his taste, he is an English Lorenzo the magnifi- cent. 16th. — Sunday. — Rainy. Drove over to Thornbridge and went with Mr. M. and son-in-law to Ashford Church, a handsome rural church, somewhat in the style of Durham churches, but quite plain; dined at Thornbridge, a fine place, house one hundred and fifty years in the family ; left about 4, P. M., to write letters, and posting them to Lon- don. 17th. — Taking pony phaeton early, drove over to Haddon Hall, four miles hence, passing through the beautiful village of Bakewell. Entered Haddon by the old oak door of the DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 4 3 keep ; there is the great hoop of the Beer Tun in the old porter's room : the Chaplain's room, with its old Buff Jer- kins, Boots and Matchlock of the times of the Common- wealth, etc., and used in the civil wars : the old cradle of the first Duke of Rutland ; the great baronial Dining Hall, with its oak rafters ; oak table on a dais ; Music Gallery ; great fire-place, and private dining room; oak wainscot- ing : rare carvings, with the inscription of "Drede God" — " Honor the King." Bay windows, Drawing Rooms in silk tapestry, wrought in time of Charles I. : curious old Chapel with a confessional on the north side, etc. ; ball rooms one hundred and nine feet long, with oak wainscots, and moulded ceiling. Boar and Peacock, the ruins of Vernon and of Rutland, on all the carvings. Here Queen Eliza- beth is said to have opened the first ball ; State Bed of the Queen's room, hung with the gobelin tapestry ; as also numerous Pages' rooms. Ascended to the Eagle Tower, then out by the doorway, whence Dorothy Vernon, ages ago " fled into the dark" with Sir John Manners ; walked along the ancient terrace, down the grand stairway, and by the stone steps to the sweet foot bridge, over the winding Wye. It is a rare old Baronial Hall in primitive condition, uninhabited for one hundred and fifty years. By Dorothy's marriage with Sir John Manners, it came to the Rutlands, who yet retain the old relics ; here are some good old paint- ings ; a Vandyck of Charles I. ; some by Snyder ; a few old chairs, one coronation chair of Henry VII., Saxoa 44 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. shape, sadly decayed, and an antique copper wine-cooler, in the private dining room. Groped through the vast old kitchen, with its great Bread and Beer Bins, whence alms were freely given to the poor in the old hospitalities ; then drove on through lovely Darnley Dale to Matlock Bath, in a defile of Derbyshire, between the High Tor and Crag Tor mountains, through which flows the pretty Derwent — a crowded summer resort ; stopped at the old Bath Inn ; went down into a cavern some three quarters of a mile deep, with great chambers studded with spar and stalactite. "Walked to Willersley Park, the fine seat of Sir Peter Ark- wright, grandson of Sir Richard ; crossed Cromford Bridge, near his Cotton Factories founded by his grandfather, which are still in operation ; walked through his grounds, which are in terraced pathways, and some green houses on the river sides, to the little boat ferry, and returned to my Inn, dined, and drove back to Baslow. 18th. — Rained all day. At home writing letters. 19th. — Drove over to Chesterfield, eight miles, a smoky little town ; curiously twisted leaning church-spire ; at half- past 12, M., took rails, and by various stations passing through Tamworth, seeing the Towers of Drayton Manor, the seat of Sir Robert Peel, and a most superb country scenery, like a rich garden, to Leamington, arrived about 6, P. M., at this English Saratoga ; drove to the Regent's Hotel ; after tea walked about the beautiful town ; called at Lands- DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 45 downe Circus, on Mrs. W. — gone to church — spent an hour with the family, and returned to Inn. 20th. — Took carriage and drove to Warwick Castle, about two miles, in a lovely situation on the river Avon. Old Lebanon Cedars in the Park ; only some six rooms are shown ; none are so fine as those of Alnwick ; saw the Warwick Vase, and the Guy nonsense at the Porter's Lodge ; then to St. Mary's Church with its exquisite Beau- champ Chapel, and the rare and fine old monuments there ; the chantrey and hagioscope. The main church is after all, the most beautiful in proportion and general effect. Then, through a sweet country to Stratford, on Avon; went to " the house where Shakespeare was born," now the relic shop ; the Town Hall, where Garrick played on the great Shakespeare Festival, there is the portrait of Shakespeare in his study ; then to New Place, the poet's retirement of Stratford; the church is now newly fitted up, and quite handsomely ; but the monuments are un- changed ; after lunch walked over to Shottery, and visited the cottage of u Sweet Anne," surely old and quaint enough to have been Anne's : it was a lovely walk ; rode back, passing Charlcote House, still owned by the Lucys', and looking unchanged amid its stately oaks. The country about, though level, is perfectly beautiful ; returning, stopped at Leicester's Hospital, in Warwick ; the house is unaltered, and kept in good order ; this is a charity for 46 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. twelve old soldiers : each receives £80, and a master £400 annually, for life, a rare old place. Returned in the even- ing to Leamington. 21st.— Took train for Town at 9. 25, A. M. ; got off at Kenilworth Castle; went clown and spent a little while among the ruins. The Gate-House — the ruined Banqueting Hall, and the view from the moat, are still the finest ; then went on to London. Arrived about 3, P. M., and drove to 7 King Street ; called at Wiley's, and then off to the Re- gent's Park, 4 Fitzroy Square, and at Madame Tussand's in the evening. Came home about 10, P. M., with Charles W., of New York, whom I met at Warwick Castle. 22d. — Rose early, and before breakfast walked into the Guildhall to look at famous Gog and Magog ; its fine Ban- queting Hall, Court of Aldermen and Common-Councilmen, Room for the City Freedoms ; there are some good paintings, and a fine ceiling in the Court of Aldermen. After break- fast, called at Charles Knight's, Ludgate Hill, not in ; left introduction. Upon St. Paul's steps met W., and we took our luggage and drove up to Miss Ayres, No. 4 Fitzroy Square ; then rode over to Grosvenor Square ; walked to No. 90 Eaton Square, the Legation ; saw the Secretary, Mr. Broadhead ; Mr. Bancroft, was not at home, left letters for him, and promised to go to his reception to-morrow night ; then we walked out past Buckingham Palace, through St. James' Park, past Apsley House, Wellington Statue, Hyde Park Corner, over to the Horse Guards, in front of which DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 47 met Mr. H., of Norfolk, England, and we together went into the fine old Chapel of Whitehall Palace, to see the ex- quisite ceiling by Rubens ; then by the grand Reform, Conservative, Oxford, and Cambridge Clubs, the new Treasury Buildings, and Westminster Hall ; then into the House of Commons, a plain, mean room ; could not get into the new House ; then to St. James' Palace, by order, to see Winterhalter's painting of the Royal Family, and the Prince of Wales. They were, of course, much flattered, but not equal to that at Liverpool, taken in eighteen hun- dred and forty, by the same artist. Then to the National Gallery ; spent but an hour among its two thousand pic- tures ; then dined together at the York or Farmers' Club, and after dinner went with H. to Covent Garden, to hear Grisi, Marini, Mario, and Tamburini, sing II Puritani, and Elssler dance the Ballet. The new house has six tiers of private boxes, and the pit is stalled and might hold over fifteen hundred persons. It is lit by one luxurious Chan- delier, colored, and its upholstery is of red and gold. The Stage is about eighty feet wide. Its general effect is very grand. Grisi, of course, sang superbly, with fine ac- tion. The scenery was beautiful ; chorus very large ; at a finale, perhaps two hundred were on the stage at once ; Mario's tenor is near perfection. Tamburini is getting old, and did not sing with his former celebrated powers. In the Queen's box, near which I sat, in the Parquette, was the Marquis of Normanfby, and suite. Opposite, the Duchess 48 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. of Beaufort and her beautiful daughter, the Lady Blanche Somerset, and in the next box, was the Countess of Ayles- bury. ' The house was completely full ; but so beau- tifully arranged, that there could be no crowd, every par- quette seat, being an armed and cushioned chair ; price two dollars. Saw the first act of the Ballet of Salamandrine. Fanny danced as well as usual, but she looks vastly older. Left about half-past eleven, P. M. 23d.— Sunday.— Went with Mr. and Mrs. H., to the Temple Church. It was very crowded ; got seats for the ladies in the choir, and contented myself on a sedilla, under the Nave Dome. The service is Cathedral-like ; the an- them was beautifully sung. The Church is a fine restora- tion ; the vaulted and octagon Nave, is identical with the Chapter House of York-Minster, with its fine proportions, encaustic tiles and its effigies of the Templar on the floor ; but it is much smaller, and has not the stainings. The Choir- windows are like Durham ; the ceiling and frames are in distemper, like York, while the East window is full of beautiful stainings. The Pillars are of black Derbyshire Marble ; and the ceiling of a whitish stone, like Durham. After dinner, walked with W. up to the Hyde Park, went over to the Achilles, and to Aspley House. It was very warm and dusty ; populace were out in great numbers over its green fields. Great procession of carriages, some four or five miles of them in solid column. After supper went to Bancroft's Levee ; very stupid. DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 49 24th. — Started out with W., early; took Buss along Oxford street, down to the city ; went to the Tower. They are now building some new Armories, in a style like the old Tower ; went through the Horse Armory : being Whit- monday, there was a great crowd : twelve at a time were admitted with the Yeoman, including four soldiers, who have the privelege, but did not go with us. Kings and Knights are here, in full original armor, mounted ; the finest seemed to be Edward I., and Charles I., in his gilt armor. On all sides are men at arms, standing opposite to their masters, in what are said to be, original armor ; and armor beautifully arranged in stars, circles, etc.; also a fine preservation of horse and man, in complete chain mail, of the reign of Stephen, and of a Templar, of the time of the Conqueror. It was curious to observe the gradual change in armor, and how it was, by piece-meal, left off. The Iron Hauberk, was worn, down to sixteen hundered and eighty- eight. Passing up on the stairway, is the beautiful cannon of brass, finely chased, with the furies supporting the car- riage, captured at Malta, and with some others ; then into the small armory ; here is the cell of Sir Walter Raleigh ; on the doorway, cut as by a nail, in the stone, and said to be done by Raleigh, are the words — " He that endureth to the end, shall have a crown of life." The cell is about ten feet square, formed in the thickness of the wall ; in front is the Beheading Block and axe, by which Anne Boleyn, Bal- merine, and many others suffered ; in front of that is a 50 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. curious matchlock and target of bullet proof and tempered steel, of the time of Henry VIII. ; the gun-barrel protrudes, and as you hold the target by the inner handle, the match is touched with a spring, near the hand. Here is the Skerin- ger's Daughter, and the thumb screws ; around the room are curious and rare weapons, from the early Norman reigns, down j and also an equestrian figure of Queen Elizabeth, as she appeared in procession after the Armada victory ; then to the Jewel Room ; the Regalia are well known. The Wine Fountain of gold, and Baptismal and Communion Gold-Plate, strike you more than the Crowns. Anne Bo- leyn's Crown and Ivory Sceptre, and the Confessors Gold Rod are of interest. These three rooms are all that are shown. Went down to the Tower stairs, so famous in all English History ; they look but little changed, from your imagination of them, when it was .the portal of despair to the noble victim ; and the landing place spread with cloth of gold for the earlier monarchs. The whole surrounding scene is unaltered. Took wherry and rowed past the steam packets and ships moored in the stream, and several docks, to the tunnel ; went down the staircase, a most weary de- scent, and walked half the way through ; it is on two arches, one of which is now being repaired, and extends from Wapp- ing to Rotherithe, the shipping quarters ; the arches are beau- tiful in shape, always lit with gas. Then into the boat again to Greenwich ; went to the Hospital, a most superb edifice of & centre building, and two immense wings, in white stone, DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 51 and Corinthian style, with fine Domes ; entered the Dining Hall ; some seven hundred of the men sat at dinner, in their odd uniform of immense coats, with gilt buttons, and cocked hats, in what we term, revolutionary style ; then, into the Chapel of the same architectural style ; highly carved and concentric ceiling, with fine gallery ; the altar piece is a painting by West, of St. Paul at Malta, in his fixed man- ner ; one hundred and fifty figures of life size : the adoring wonder of the women on the right, and the calm air of the Apostle, are strikingly expressed. Pulpit is new, and of finely carved oak ; the room would hold over one thousand persons. Then, to the Gallery of Paintings ; the vestibule of this room, with its rich ornaments on the ceiling, and its frescos, is beautiful. There are many fine paintings; of course all are Naval : Nelson's Death ; the Battles of Aboukir ; and of Trafalgar, with many capital portraits of the Admirals, etc. Walked through some of the wards ; each is a ship's state room, in complete order ; each sailor taking entire charge of his own room. Saw the Royal Charlie Ward, and heard the old story over again of the escape of Charles II. ; then, into the large and handsome reading room, with full files of newspapers ; many old tars were reading there, and in the Library. Seven hundred and twenty men, and some fifteen officers in all, are here now. Walked over to the Park of the Hospital ; on the central hill is the Observatory ; the park and streets were crowded with the venders, visiters, and motley crowd of 52 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. Greenwich Annual May Fair — like a New York Fourth of July : where was the vilest thimble rigging ; the leading sport seemed to be the rasping rattler, and in tumbling down the hills. Took cars home : it continued showering every five minutes till midnight. After dinner, went to the Music Hall, Storey Street, Bedford Square, to hear Wilson sing his Scotch songs again. He has failed sadly since'Jris visit to America ; he wears a wig and spectacles ; it was a mean room, not half filled ; admission but half a crown : sang his old songs and told his old stories indifferently ^w ell. Left at end of the first part, and returned home. 25th. — Riding down to the city, went to St. Paul's ; the nave was filled with scaffoldings, prepared for the exhibition of the Charity Schools, of London ; and the choir was closed during the week. Went up stairs to the Stone Gallery ; looking east, up the nave, this view is the finest : the white marble arches, so highly ornamented, the fine choir, and the proportions of the vast building, fill the eye with a noble picture. Went on up to the Whispering Gallery ; the effect is perfect here of the fine dome and frescos : then up to the ball. The view of the city from the outer gallery, as the day was superb, was unsurpassed. Walked around the nave aisles admiring the statues : Chantry, Heber, Dr. Johnson, Sir Thomas Picton, etc. In the evening, at the Colosseum. The Cavern here is quite perfect; tolerable Swiss scenery. Then, into the Glyptotheca : circular and DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 53 domed terrace : with some fine casts of Milton and his daughters, and a Magdalen, etc. In the lobby, is the " Infant Dreamer," by Wyatt, embodying the image of these verses : " Who can tell what visions high, May lighten e'en an infant's dream, Ere sin defile or error dim The glory of the Seraphim." Then, up the winding stairs, and through the great crowd to the Panorama of London, by moonlight ; the gallery where you stand, corresponds to the outer gallery of St. Paul's : and the picture is so perfect, that it is some time before the first illusion is dispelled. The shops are all lit up, and Cheapside and the Strand, stretch away, in far bright lines. The river gleams in the moon-beams, crowded as usual ; the Bridges are lit : Christ's Church Hospital is there ; New- gate Market is before you, and for miles away on all sides stretch the street lights. You listen for the carriage roar, and look for the throng of passengers in the streets, and it is some time before you realize that it is merely a painted city. They got up a thunder shower finely, and what seemed like an aurora, afterwards ; both however, were done very well. 26th. — Rode down to see the Abbey, where met W., as appointed ; but took cab there for the Regent's Park Bar- racks, to visit a Bazaar opened to-day in the Riding School for the distressed Irish, in which the stalls were kept by 54 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. the ladies of the aristocracy. It was opened by the Queen. When we arrived, paying a crown for our entrance fee, the Queen and her suite were within ; no very great crowd was present. On the right of the large Square, in front, the Horse Guards were drawn up, looking finely ; all six feet high, on black chargers, in their showy uniform; in front of the entrance, stood three bands on foot, and three mounted bands, playing. Officers of the Royal Guards on foot, lined the passage ; and a crimson cloth was spread from the door- way to the carriage. I got in the front, next to one of these officers near the carriages, and presently the bands struck up " God save the Queen ;" the Marquis of Londonderry, fine looking in his full uniform as Commander of the guards, with stars and orders, bowing and backing out in front : and then came the Prince and Queen in plain dress, said to be in mourning for the Archduke Charles, of Austria ; the Queen stood within a few feet from me for some quarter of an hour, and I had a full view of her. She wore a blue barege dress, and light green sherred bonnet, in rather bad taste. The outline of her face resembles her pictures, but she was very heated and haggard, and looked pimpled ; she is a lively, rapid talker ; exceedingly plain ; and scarce five feet high. The Prince Albert, on whose arm she leant, is fine looking, and just like his pictures. They both had bouquets in their hands, bought within ; and the ladies in waiting, were laden with the articles of the Fair ; some of these were very handsome ; all entered their carriages ; DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 55 the Queen's was a four horse open Barouche, perfectly plain black, with postillions and outriders. I raised my hat like the rest, but there was no cheering, though all present seemed pleased. Next came the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, old, but still fine looking, with the Prince George of Cambridge, who is young and handsome ; and some ugly little German Princes, all with their respective suites. After they left, we entered the room ; here were about a dozen stalls, covered with rich fancy articles, kept by over one hundred ladies of rank. The grand stall at the extreme right end, was kept by the Marchioness of Lon- donderry, a fine looking lady of about fifty ; near her, on the right, was her daughter, the beautiful Lady Alexandrina Vane, dressed in a blue silk bodice, buttoned with brilliants, set with diamonds; fine black hair, and large expressive black eyes, with an oval face and pleasant expression, her manner was agreeable; of her the Queen had just pur- chased one hundred guineas worth, as she said ; next to the Marchioness, in the stall and on her left, stood the daughter of Sir Robert Peel ; young and pretty — a miniature of her father — and some others, ladies of rank, all busy selling ; next, to the left was the stall of the Countess of Guernesy : she was dressed in a light colored spencer and a lace dress, good looking, and apparently about midway in life, with her daughters ; next, the Countess of Jersey, with her lovely daughter, the flower of the peerage ; the Lady Villiers who stood before her; with delicate and light complexion, blue 56 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. eyes, light brown hair, and arch expression, in a plain black silk dress with diamonds. Near here was the stall of Lady Loundford : her two daughters who kept it were two gems of beauty ; with dove colored dress, quite plain ; no bon- nets ; chesnut hair, blue eyes, fine figures, and some ex- A quisite brilliants and bracelets. Next, the little Hebes in the Fancy Stall ; and then the stall kept by the Duchess of Gloucester ; passing some more stalls on the right of the Lady Beauclerc and others, and of the Countess of Limerick; in front, was the stall of Mrs. Mountjoy Martyn, sprightly and still in her beauty, formerly a celebrated belle, and somewhat like Lady Villiers, though much older, and not so pretty ; and then the stall of the Marchioness of Clan- ricarde. These are not one half of the list. The crowd of buyers were mainly of the nobility ; the Duchess of Suther- land, still looking splendidly, came in leaning upon the arm of Hon. Mr. Howard, (Percy,) and the Countess of Ayles- bury, and many others, all superbly dressed ; the reigning mode seemed to be white worked lace skirts, with satin spencers of gay colors ; the room was crowded, and all of course seemed to feel at home. It was an unequalled sight; spent nearly three hours there ; left through the crowds of coronetted carriages for home. In the afternoon went to the Zoological Gardens, in Regent's Park. These are on a magnificent scale ; the grounds looked finely, clothed in their early verdure ; drove down to the city, and dined at home. DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 57 27th. — Went out early to the Park of the Horse Guards, to see the review ; paid half a crown, got within the inner circle, near the staff. Here, in a grand square, were two thousand troops of the Household Guards, including the two squadrons of the Horse Guards, looking in splendid order. When I entered, three foot-bands, numbering about one hundred and fifty musicians, were marching around the inside of the hollow square, formed by their ranks, playing together the march from if Puritani, in superb style. To the left, and very near me, sat, on horseback, the Duke of Wellington, in full uniform, as Field Marshal ; his face is like his pictures, but his present uniform improved his ap- pearance wonderfully. He rode a fine charger. Next him was the Prince Albert, in a full Hussar uniform ; next, the Russian Grand Duke, Constantine, in a green uniform, young and slender ; the Duke of Cambridge, the Marquis of Londonderry, and others, all in splendid uniforms with their stars and orders. The troops marched and counter- marched before them. The two mounted bands of the Horse Guards, played, drawn up before them, and then all together marched off towards St. James' Palace. It was an elegant day, and the sight was superb. I followed them, and got a fine seat in a Balcony of the Palace-cham- ber, right at the gateway of the Color Court of St. James' Palace. It was the drawing-room, held for the Queen's birthday ; presently, a squadron of the Horse Guards drew up before me, with the grand double-mounted 58 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. band, and, just inside of the color Court, were two foot bands. These played by turns for more than three hours, from about 12 o'clock, P. M., the review closing at 11 ; the carriages began to come down St. James' Street, and continued in unbroken lines for over three hours. The equipages were magnificent ; the harness with heavy silver and gold mountings ; the horses of high blood and training ; the livery in every color of the rainbow : the carriage tops were studded with coronets ; the ladies within, were in full and magnificent dress, with ostrich plumes, and diamond tiaras of every form and style, in all several thou- sands. Next day's " Times" had over four columns of names of those presented. I watched them come and go for over three hours, from my quiet seat, looking down over the enormous crowd, who were kept in perfect order by the ranks of police, who formed a large open square for the carriages. It was interesting to see such perfect quiet, in a mass of several thousands, preserved by about one hundred policemen. In the evening walked through Regent Street, and by the Clubs and Waterloo Place, to see the illuminations. The streets were choked with the crowd. The illumina- tions were mainly in the Royal shops, and the Clubs ; chiefly with gas, arranged in stars, crowns, wreaths, and festoons, with the V. R. in the centre : Howell, and James' shop, in Waterloo Place, whose Balcony of fifty feet in length was festooned in gas light, and Holme's shop, like- DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 59 wise, and one opposite, with the censer lamps of the Clubs, and the grand Star wreath and Crown in colored lights, on Her Majesty's Theatre, were the finest. The gas formed a brilliant and steady illumination. 28th.— Went out about 11, A. M. Called at Mr. L.'s, 32 Tavistock Square, then at R.'s ; then drove down to Dr. Mackenzie's office, No. 4 Queen Square, Westminster ; after a pleasant chat and lunch, his clerk went over the Abbey with me. The guide showed us through the various smaller Chapels very hurriedly. James Watt, by Chan- trey, Shakspeare, Southey, Major Andre, Canning, Dry- den, Wolfe, Mansfield, and the Roman Figures behind this, struck me as some of the finest, in my hasty view ; service was commencing, and we went in the choir. It is plainly fitted up : the service was not as well sung as at Durham. Admired the Roofs of the Nave, Choir, and Transepts. Weather to-day is very warm ; over 80° in the shade, and the Regent Quadrant is crowded with carriages. Came home ; evening at a Sociable at the house, given by the Misses Ayres, to the guests ; very pleasant affair. Mr. and Mrs. Bancroft called on me in the afternoon. 29th. — Went out about 10, A. M., and called on Lord Brougham, at No. 4 Grafton Street, New Bond Street. Sent in introduction ; he was occupied at the moment ; go- ing to leave town in a few moments. Sent out his regrets, and requested me to call on Monday, before 11, A. M. Then went to R.'s, who gave me a tasting order for 60 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. the Wine Vaults of the London Docks. W. met me here, and we went together to the Docks ; calling on C, in Austin Friars, by the way. Walked some quarter of a mile along the Quay to Cooper's East Vault. There are eleven other Wine Vaults in this Dock, but not so large as this, which covers eleven acres. Took guide and lamp and walked over it ; it is always lit with lamps, and is of stone, arched and passes under several streets. The floor is about of the river level, and ten feet be- low the quay-top, or street-level. All the passages or streets in it, are railways, and on all sides are casks of wine ; the oldest here is twenty-six years old. Only Port and Sherry, and mainly the first, are kept here. We, of course, tasted the Port, which was very fine — and the Sherry. Returned home to go to the Opera with R. and wife, to hear Don Giovanni at Covent Garden, sung by Grisi, Persiani, Al- boni, &c. ; a triple Orchestra and double chorus ; had a box in the second tier. Persiani did not sing as effectively as Grisi. The general effect with such uncommon power, and new appointments, was surprisingly fine. The Queen and Prince, with suite, were there, and remained until the Ballet. 30th. — Sunday — Went to the Chapel of the Foundling Hospital. The proportions of the room are very fine ; its size is about that of Whitehall, and is of Corinthian style. The music, with the anthem of " The heavens are telling," by Miss Rainsforth and some two hundred and fifty of the DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 61 children, was beautiful. The Chapel was crowded ; we had a good seat in a friend's pew, and an excellent sermon on the Trinity, by the Chaplain. Waited a few moments after service, and saw the children go to dinner ; one of the youngsters saying grace before them ; then into the girls' room. About three hundred children, neatly dressed, healthy, and happy, are supported here till twenty-one years of age, and, if sick, come back here afterwards ; this is the famed charity of Captain Coram. Walked through the fine Council-Rooms, where are some choice paintings ; the Magi, Hagar, Pharaoh's Daughter, Ho- garth's March to Finchley, and to the Dormitories, Lava- tory, &c, all in perfect order and neatness, with some ele- gance. After dinner drove about Hyde Park, with the ladies in Mr. C.'s carriage ; made a short call on Mackenzie in the evening. 31st. — After calling again on Brougham, who had left for the House of Lords, to sit on appeals, leaving a mess- age for me to meet him in the House, and an order for to- night ; returned home, and went with Mrs. H. and Miss L. to the House. After passing through the great crowd, entered the grand vestibule ; the inner one is paved richly with encaustic tiles ; in the Royal motto, and three Lions, in gold and crimson : high florid Gothic windows, richly stained, and ceiling emblazoned in gold and crimson. The door-arch is gilded, and, with numerous figures of Lions 62 L»IARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. and Unicorns, richly done ; the door itself is of polished brass, full of rich tracery of figures ; the view hence of the room is superb. Its ceiling is some eighty feet high, covered with gold ornaments, and richly emblazoned pen- dants ; long, florid Gothic windows stretch down the sides to the tiers of red morocco seats on each side. At the lower extremity, about sixty feet off, is the throne, under a rich Gothic Canopy of Crown and Dome ; a mass of gild- ing and ornaments standing upon a Dais of four steps, which are covered with a crimson carpet, bearing the Royal Arms. Before this is the Woolsack — an immense oblong red ottoman ; on this lay the gold Mace and Purse, and before this is a long oak table, at whose end sat Lord Cot- tenham, in his robes as Lord Chancellor ; on his right was the Clerk of the House, on his left, upon the front bench, behind a small writing-table, sat Lord Campbell and Lord Brougham, the only Lords present. Beyond, at the bar, and facing the throne and the Lord Chancellor, were the three counsel engaged in the argument of a cause of the Great Western Railway, on appeal from Queen's bench. I sent my card in to Brougham, and was immediately shown through a fine side lobby, on the right to the Robing Room of the Peers, which is superbly finished in the same style as the House ; it is just immediately behind the throne. In a few moments the Chancellor stept out, passing me, his pages bearing his train, and Brougham came in. He was affable in his manners, spoke much and with great interest DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 63 of our New York constitutional convention ; regretted that he had not received any documents yet ; made numerous inqui- ries as to our judiciary reforms ; wished me to attend the de- bates at 5, P. M., of his House, and would introduce me on the floor without any order, and also to attend a meeting of the Law Amendment Association, at 21 Regent Street, on the 5th instant, at 3, P. M., where he presides ; and then in- troduced me on the floor of the House, and gave me a seat on the throne steps. He was dressed in plain drab — care- lessly — his hair is white, though yet full ; face is like the pictures. The Chancellor soon returned and he had to take his seat. I waited awhile ; the counsel grew tedious, and I joined the ladies, and put them in a cab ; went to the city. Received letter from S. N. D., (May 13th ;) spent some time with D. ; at 4, P. M., mounted saddle horse, with Miss L., with groom, and had a splendid ride through Regent's and Hyde Parks, and a gallop over Kensington Green. It was a fine day, and a great crowd was out ; evening at home. June 1st. — Went down to the city, morning; bought writing case, etc. ; wrote to S. N. D. S. and C. ; evening with Herman, 40 George Street ; engaged to meet him to converse in German and French ; the rest of the eve- ning spent in a pleasant visit at Mrs. A.'s, 37 Gordon Squares. 2d. — Went through the Tower and Tunnel, walking 64 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. across to Rotlicritlic ; pleasant day ; lunched at Mrs. A.'s. Evening met first at Mr. Herman's, as agreed. 3d. — Started with Mr. B. and wife, and other ladies, by Paddington Rails to Slough, and then took Barouche, driv- ing through Windsor Park, passing the Castle, Eton Col- lege, the Statue of Charles I., and Virginia Water, to Ascot Heath. Left our carriage and went upon the Grand Stand, really a four story hotel ; below, was the lawn ; on the left, was the Queen's Stand, and beyond it many other Stands. On the right is the New Mile Post, where stands the Start- er ; in front of the Queen's Stand, is the judge's box ; the course is about tATO and a half miles around on a flat heath ; but very few booths ; the people were crowding around the track. On this Grand Stand were many of the Nobility. I recognized the Marchioness of Londonderry, and the Lady Vane, the Countess of Limerick, the Countess of Guernsey, and the Countess of Jersey, and several others ; at half-past one, the Royal party arrived. First came the Earl of Errol, Master of the Buckhounds on a superb white horse ; then several huntsmen in scarlet livery ; then six carriages, each with four horses, postillions, and out- riders ; the Queen, with the Duchess of Kent, Prince Al- bert, and the Grand Duke Constantine, sat in the second carriage, etc. Amongst the ladies, in the carriages, were, the Duchess of Sutherland and her daughter, the Lady Leveson Gower, and with them the Prince Leiningen. DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 65 They drove slowly through the track. The Queen wore a pink bonnet, and dress, with feathers ; the carriages were plain and rich, open barouches, and the livery of scarlet ; the Prince wore the Windsor uniform, blue, turned up with scarlet ; it was, together, a fine sight. As soon as they occu- pied their stand, the races began. Not half the horses that were entered, actually ran. The finest run, was that for the gold and silver vase, presented by Nicholas, of the Russias. Seven horses, out of forty that were entered, ran ; the horses were fine, and the race well run ; Hero, winning by half a length. The vase was placed on a pedestal in front of the Queen. Her Majesty's silver plate in one of the lower rooms ; the subject of which was, a " Stag hunter at the death," ornamented with chasing in relief, was next run for. There were one mile heats, every half hour ; but none of the running was equal to Chester, and that course is far better. In the wings of the Queen's stand, was a great crowd of the nobility ; but there is no position here whence you can see the whole course, as at Chester. It is more like our Union Course, Long Island, and were it not the fashion, none would go to Ascot Heath. 4th. — Called on Charles H. D., of 24 Baker street, with the introduction of N. P. Willis. We started out together, and walked through the park, and to Westminster Hall ; went into the Roll's Court; Lord Langdale was on the bench, and Barristers were arguing ; then, into the Lord Chancellors' Court : Cottenham was on the bench, the purse 5 66 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. and mace before him ; then, to the Vice Chancellor's Court, crowded like the rest ; then, to the Queen's Bench : Lord Denman was presiding ; and then, to the Bail Court, just adjoining ; then to the Common Pleas, where Sir Thomas Wilde, Chief Justice, was presiding ; all the Court Rooms are small; the tiers of benches, scarcely enough for the bar, are all in a line on the south side of the Hall, excepting the Rolls and the Chancery, which are on the second floor. The Equity Judges wore the Clerical black gown ; the Law Judges, purple gowns, with ermine facing, and capes ; the wigs of horse hair, differ according to degree ; heard por- tions of arguments ; they were no better than at home ; the Queen's Counsel and the Sergeants occupy the front benches. Heard them in the Common Pleas ; their style was flippant, and small ; attorney -wise ; coming out of the Courts, walk- ed down to the river, passing the Milbank Prison and oppo- site to old Lambeth Palace. Returned, to go again through the Abbey ; found the Artists there as usual, painting in every corner ; spent some hours there. Evening, with Her- man — French. 5th. — Went off early, with Mrs. A., and other ladies in their carriage, to Dulwich ; spent an hour, or more, looking over this collection ; here are near fo|ir hundred paintings, by the masters ; a great many of Cuyp's landscapes, Tenier 's, and Claude's ; a fine snow scene, by Cuyp ; and also, a number of beautiful cattle pieces. The original " Spanish Flower Girl," by Murillo ; also, by him, two DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 67 pictures of Spanish boys, one chewing a crust of bread. Several Guidos ; a girl looking from a window, by Rem- brandt ; a Magdalen, by Annibal Carracci : Christ cruci- fied, by Guercino, and the weeping Marys following ; John preaching, by the same artist ; a divine Mater Dolorosa, with the living tear drop on her cheek, by Carlo Dolci ; an exquisite portrait of William Linley, by Lawrence; and many other gems, all finely arranged in a well lit gallery. This is called the collection of Sir Francis Bourgeois, be- queathed to him by Desenfans, who was painter to King Stanislaus ; and were left by Sir Francis to this College, which was founded by Alleyn the actor, in Shakespeare's original Southwark company, for the support of twenty-four poor persons, and is kept up as of old. The ride through Camberwell thither, is beautiful. Returned, went to 21 Re- gent street, and attended, by Brougham's invitation, a meet- ing of the Law Amendment Society ; some one hundred and fifty persons were present. Lord Brougham, on taking the chair, made a long address, on the abuses of the present sys- tem of Conveyaneing, and on Constructions of the Statutes, and the benefits derived from the labor of his Society, this being its anniversary. He speaks rapidly, with abroad Scotch accent, but from a clear and full mind. Lords Ashburton and Campbell, were Vice Presidents. The Earl of Devon, a former Master in Chancery, seconded by Lord Yarmouth, moved the first general resolution. The Duke of Cleveland spoke ; Lord Eglintoun, (of tournament fame,) was moving 68 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. the next resolution, and promising to be very dull, and more to follow ; so, after spending an hour there, I went out, and over to Leicester Square, at the Walhalla ; saw three or four of Warton's Groupes Plastiques. The Angel discoursing with Adam, was the best. In the evening called at Mackenzie's ; couldn't go to Garrick's Head, his son just come from Paris j then called, pleasantly, in Tavistock Square. 6th. — Went to St. Pancrafs Church with Mr. A. and L. ^t is large ; somewhat like our Saint Bartholomew's, but twice the size ; a fine organ, and very crowded : dull sermon ; afternoon, wrote to D., and to Paris ; and at 6, P. M., went to Gordon Square, to a dinner party ; a pleasant affair. 7th. — With Judge Gamble, of Georgia, took cars at Nine Elms Station, for Richmond ; and thence sauntered through Bushy Park to Hampton Court. The scenery, the whole way is delightful ; the park is over a mile through, with its fine horse chesnuts, twelve deep, on either side, and is one of the noblest in England. Drove up to the Old Lion Gateway, built by George II ; still beautiful ; walked through the fine grounds, to the east front of the Palace. It covers eight acres, is built of red brick, and faced and ornamented with marble ; this front is over one hundred feet high. Passing in through the old Gateways, Courts, and Corridors, entered the Galleries : here are over one thousand works of the masters ; nine or ten rooms full, besides, the euperb Cartoons, and the exquisite tapestry, and water DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 69 colors, depicting Caesar's triumphs ; then went into the Great Hall, which is very high — Gothic, of oak, and gilded roof; with pendants, and stained and storied windows, with Wolsey's arms, name ; and those of Henry VIII, and his wives, hung with Wolsey's Banners, and wainscoted with arras, stone floor and dais ; a Music Gallery, richly carved, and recently restored ; the taste of the whole, is admirable. Walked about the old palace, so full of Wolsey's genius yet ; some fifty gentlewomen are now supported, and live here upon the Royal Purse ; saw the old Grape Vine, some seventy-nine years old ; its longest branch is one hundred and ten feet in length, in a glass house, apart and near the Orangery — of the black Hamburgh grape. They have plucked over two thousand bunches from it at once ; on the twentieth of last February, they supplied the Queen's table with fresh grapes, from this vine. Walked about the gar- dens and into the Maze : it was a delightful visit. Home, by the omnibus to Regent's Circus. Evening — German, with Herrman, 8th. — Taking the Slough rails and omnibus, went to Windsor, and went into the Chapel of the Knights of the Garter, one of the most beautiful in England. Entered by the south transept door ; the roof and arches are groined and studded with the Royal Insignia: the Fleur de Lis Portcullis, the White and Red roses, the stars of the Order, and Escutcheons, all in gold and different colors. The great west window, stained with figures of the Knights of 70 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. the Order, perhaps two hundred in all, in full costume, is superbly done : it is about sixty feet high by forty in width. On the left hand here, near the west entrance, is the ex- quisite Beaufort Chapel ; full of fine statues and effigies of the family, with gilt roof like the nave ; two long and topaz-colored windows light it ; the banners hang over the tombs ; and near the entrance on the left hand, is a niche and reading desk, for the prayers : and a finely gilt fleur de lis railing encloses it. Upon the opposite side, behind such a railing, and lit by two superb lancet windows, one of topaz, and the other of amethyst; and under a ceiling groined in a demi-sphere, with emblazonings, is the tomb of the Princess Charlotte, one of the finest monuments in England; executed by Sir James Wyatt. In the back ground, the curtains of the tomb are disparted, wide and richly folded, (so true, that it needs reflection to believe them of marble,) showing the marble archway, from which the life size figure of the Princess, is rising in her shroud, which is thrown back in graceful folds ; transport is on her face, her right hand rising upwards, and the left extended behind, as if winging her upward flight and putting away mortality. On either side of her, and kneeling on the first step at her feet, are two angels, as if just alighted there, looking up to her with affection. Upon the second step, in front, and covered with a shroud, lies her mortal body ; below, upon the last step, kneel two enshrouded figures of mourners, weeping over her mortal body. The figures are DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 71 all full of life. The position of the lower figures, although enshrouded, and their sculpture is so perfect, that it needs not to show the face. The expression of the Princess is of calm security of bliss ; the kneeling angels have this united to the expression of joy on receiving her to their company. The group may be in all, twenty feet high, by fourteen in width, of the life-size, and complete. Walked up the nave, with its great arches, so rich in gold and blazonry, and so rarely proportioned. Does not all remind one of the case- ment of that glorious Chapel in St. Agnes' Eve V Look east ; there is the organ loft, supported below by con- centric groinings, in mouldings unsurpassed ; and the choir screen, of rare iron work; and the organ itself, with its pipes emblazoned in gold and scarlet ; its gallery, on the * " A casement high and triple-arched there was, All garlanded with carven imageries, Of fruits, and flowers, and bunches of knot-grass, And diamonded with panes of quaint device Innumerable, of stains and splendid dyes, As are the tiger-moth's deep-damask'd wings ; And in the midst, 'mong thousand heraldries, And twilight saints, and dim emblazonings, A shielded scutcheon blushed with blood of Queens and Kings. Full on this casement shone the wintry moon, And threw warm gules on Madeline's fair breast, As down she knelt for Heaven's grace and boon ; Rose-bloom fell on her hands together prest : And on her silver cross, soft amethyst, And on her hair a glory, like a saint She seemed a splendid angel, newly drest, Save wings for Heaven." Eve of St. Agnes— Stanzas, XXIV. and XXV- 72 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. nave side, is a forest of carving, of black oak : and then the choir itself. All around are superbly carved and black oak stalls, each hung with the crown or coronet, helmet, hauberk, sword and banner, of King or Knight of the order, from the Sovereign, down. In the centre of the choir, under a leaden monogram, is the tomb of the Kings of England ; before you, and over the altar, is West's famous painting of the Last Supper ; and then, the great East Window, in solemn and full tints, presents the Transfiguration of our Lord ; on the left of the altar table, and about twelve feet in height, stands a screen of beautiful steel work : above this are two closets, screened and windowed, one in carven oak, and the other of stucco, for the Queen and her attendants. The roof of the choir like that of the nave, is rich in all emblazonry. The windows in the choir aisles are in rare stainings, after the antique, and covered with quaint in- scriptions ; and the side chapels contain some fine monu- ments. In the right aisle, outside of the south corner of the altar screen, in a niche, and fastened by a chain, is a black letter bible ; under it, also in black letter, is the inscriptton, that — " the Bishop of Shrewsbury had placed this book here for godly meditation, and whoever shall read it aright, shall have forty days pardon ;" after the antique : beloAV, on this aisle, and protected by a glass screen, are some paintings of the era of Henry VIII., representing the Meeting at the Field of the Cloth of Gold. The organ of superb tone was playing whilst I was there ; and the choir , DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 73 of some rare voices, were singing the anthem of " 0, go your ■way into his gates, with thanksgiving, and into his courts with praise." I then went through the State rooms of the Palace, the Waterloo Gallery ; the Grand Chamber, where hangs the tricolor over Wellington's bust, annually renewed as the tenure of the Duke's manor of Strathfieldsaye, a part of the foremast of Nelson's flag-ship, " the Victory ;" with the bust of the Admiral, and the walls studded with armor, well arranged ; and then, into the State drawing room : a blaze of gilding, of immense height, with vaulted and pannelled ceiling ; the sides, like those of the other rooms, are covered with exquisite Gobelin tapestry, which are set like paintings in rare mouldings, depicting the story of Queen Esther, with figures of the life size. One room is full of paintings, by Zucharelli ; one, of the paintings of Claude; one, of Titian's ; but, excepting the Gobelin tapestry, and the drawing room, they do not equal those at Chatsworth. Went up on top of the great Round Tower ; hence, the view is superb ; the parks and the long walk, stretch miles away; below you is Eton College; and on the left, the winding and beautiful Thames, now filled with club boats, preparing [for the regatta ; Windsor Tower is at your foot, and Richmond afar off. Obtained an order to see the Royal Mews : went through them all ; near forty stables, arranged in courts, with ante rooms, and saddle and harness rooms to each ; clean as parlors ; paved with stone, and of oak ; and lit with gas, and warmed ; here 74 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. "were some one hundred of the best horses, the chil- dren^ ponies, and several Arabians, sent as presents. The Queen's favorite, Comus, on which she is so often represented in pictures, Achmed and Dido ; stand in oaken stalls, apart; each stall some six feet wide, stone floors, with clean straw, and grating ; their cribs faced above with slate, and rollers on the edge, with chain halters on each side of the mouth, and groomed smoothly as satin : all the rooms are arched and ventilated at the roof and sides ; and a brick paved walk, eight feet wide, with handsome closets, and bins : looked at the carriages, which are not showy, but plain and rich: adapted for Posting J for the Park; for Ascot ; for the road, and for the street ; and phaetons of all kinds ; the finest of all is the Queen's travelling carriage, with moveable bed, extending through to the forward boot, lined with blue velvet, and with drawers and closets, like that of Napoleon's ; then, the handsome Char a Banc, pre- sented by Louis Phillippe ; the Droskeys, Sleigh and Sled from Nicholas, and the harness; also some carriages of George III., George IV., and William IV. The harness is generally plain, with but few ornaments; saddles of all kinds : one a fine Turkish saddle ; sleigh bells, etc., etc. ; all in [exquisite order. Using Miss Ay res' name, went through the Queen's private gardens, at Frogmore, covering eight or ten acres, and finely arranged : walked some half mile through Conservatories of Roses, Grapes, Strawberries, Raspberries, and Oranges ; many of them large and ripe, DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 75 with choice flowers ; the grape vines are shoots from the Hampton Court vine. Returned to Windsor ; lunched at the Castle Inn, and took rails home. Called in the evening at Albert Street and Gordon Square. 9th. — Went in the morning, by Mr. R.'s order, to No. 53 Pall Mall, the exhibition of the new Society of Painters in water colors. The pictures are of large size ; some of them were of the life size, with the effect of the gobelins. The finest were "the Cavans Well;" "the Father watch- ing over his Child at prayer, before a Rood ;" " Vanity ;" " a housemaid neglecting her turnip paring, to dress her hair with flowers, before a glass ;" " Prince Charles in the Island of Skye, No. 52 ; Evening, No. 55 ; La Prigioniera, No. 68; "the Pastor and Flock going to Church," so much like Ashford Church ; No. 88 ;" " the broad Sun-glare of the Desert ; No. 100 ; No. 104 ; No. 107 ; No. 114 ; " the old building and the effect of the stained glass, No. 115;" Cromwell's Attitude, No. 118 ; " the monk in the cloisters, reading a pavement, brass, No. 123;" "the Sun-light and the general wakening, three feet by two, No. 129, the same as No. 18, No. 147 ; No. 153 ; and No. 161. The view from Round Tower, No. 215 Haddon Hall, gives a perfect view of the Dorothy Vernon's Terrace, and the old bay window, and the Yew Trees, with the Foot Bridge, No. 227, called " a thing to bless ; " 'neath a bright moon, a beautiful girl, with flowing chesnut hair and blue eyes, at a well side, reading a letter with delight ; No. 218 — like a Car- 76 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. toon — the best figure is the adoring female on the left, and those on the camels ; on the right there are near fifty figures in all, of the life size. There are many others worth memory, as Nos. 271; 276 ; 298 ; etc. The fresh vigor and energy given by this style, is superior to oil painting. Afternoon spent in the city ; bought some Murrays, and made some business calls : afterwards, joined ladies and went to the Royal Botanic Exhibition, at the Regent's Park Gardens. Here was a great crowd, in full dress, and some beauty : four or five of the foot bands were playing, amid a great number of Tents and Conservatories, full of fine plants and fruits, systematically arranged. There were some splendid Heaths, Azelias, and Orchidacea. Stayed some three hours there. Evening, at Herman's — German, as usual. 10th. — Went down to the city; calling at R.'s, and meeting J. Y. W., in Oxford Street, went to the National Gallery of the Old Masters. Here are two hun- dred and thirteen pictures. In the first room are the well- known and engraved Hogarth's ; and Wilkies Blind Fiddler, and Village Fete ; Lawrence's Kemble, as Hamlet, and Mrs. Siddons ; several Reynolds, and Gainsboroughs, on the stairway, Religion, and the Virtues, by Angelica Kauffman ; then many superb Claudes, etc. The finest things there are the Ecce Homo of Corregio, No. 13. Murillo's Holy Family, No. 10 ; Mercury teaching Cupid to read, and DaVinci's Christ disputing with the Doctors, and St. Je- DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. rome's Dream ; Ganymede borne up on an eagle ; Christ raising Lazarus ; West's Christ Healing the Sick ; Venus attpiring ; The Murder of the Innocents ; Rembrandt's Jew ; Venus and the satyr ; some Teniers, and some by Paul Rubens, and Vandyck. The Rape of the Sabines, No. 47 ; Cuyp's Landscape, the foreground of cattle, No. 74 ; Murillo's Spanish Peasant Boy ; Hogarth's mar- riage, a la mode ; the suite of six pictures, and the Brazen Serpent. Next, went to Sir John Soane's Museum, at Lincoln's, Inn Fields : this is quite an art treasury, though a private collection ; he died about ten years since, leaving this to the nation. A large private house is crowded in every room and nook, with gems of painting and sculpture car- vings, gems, medals, casts, freizes, designs, etc. The crypt is designed after Melrose Abbey ; the Egyptian room is full of Sarcophagi and Sphinxes ; there are many rare stain- ings ; a painting of Shakspeare is in the Tivoli Recess ; a Monk's Parlor, and the Oratory : and a collection of all kinds of objects of taste in a small space immense in num- ber. Their catalogue occupies some eight hundred and eighty pages. Evening spent in the House of Commons. The galleries were full when I arrived, and after waiting a while at last obtained a seat. Mr. Miles, member for Bristol, was then speaking to a thin house. A bill had been intro- duced by the Ministers, relative to the management of Pen- tonville and the other prisons, and Sir George Grey, Under 78 IjIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. Secretary of State, had said, in debate, that the Queen in council had resolved, not to transport any more prisoners, and Mr. Miles was talking dully upon the necessity of re- taining the punishment of transportation. Sir Robert In- glis followed him, and spoke cleverly on the same side — Sir George Grey, rising frequently to explain ; then Sir James Graham prosed away upon the same topic. The House filled up to about one hundred and fifty. Lord John Russell was in his seat. The Premier is short, not above five feet ; and his face is like the pictures, wearing his hat on the back of his head, with plaid vest and light pants ; he did not speak ; I waited here for over two hours. The new Bude lights from the roof are fine : the House itself is mean, but the general appearance of the men is intellectual. There was a great crowd in expectation of hearing Mr. Hume's motion about Portugal, but it was postponed till to-morrow night, as Hume was not there. Sir Robert Inglis was the best speaker of the evening, he is not an orator ; but an au fait and fluent talker. There is a certain quiet in the manner of the speakers, we might well imitate : but, except the debaters, the rest sit with their hats on, legs up, and some asleep ; the only ceremony left here being a bow to the speaker on entering and leav- ing, and that they rise from their seats to speak. The Lords had risen, when I got clown ; the session is almost closed, so nothing could be expected of much interest. ^ 11th. — Went with B., of New York, down by the Great DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 79 Western Railway to Oxford, a ride of two hours ; to the Angel Inn, the best here, though poor and exorbitant ; those to whom I was introduced by Mackenzie, had left town, so took the Guide of the Inn, a tolerable fellow, and went to the Radcliff Library, mostly of medical books, of some sixty thousand in number. The symmetry and mouldings in its Grecian Dome, are fine. The books are handsomely arranged in arched alcoves around ; the circle is paved with tesselated marble, and ornamented with some fine casts and antiques. It is situated in Oriel Street, just off the High Street ; next went to the Bodleian, and leisurely passed through the lower rooms used as the Library. In a glass ease at the entrance are some curiosities ; Tippoo Sul- tan's Koran embroidered in satin ; and also in silk are many Arabic, Coptic, and Sanscrit MSS. ; Queen Eliza- beth's Latin exercises in her own writing ; a good bold hand ; the original book of Enoch ; a large book of the Signatures of those who have taken the Honorary Doctor- ates ; and here is the name of Edward Everett. The Hall is lit with rich stainings, and low oaken ceiling, oak floor, and book cases, with gilt wires ; venerable, quaint read- ing desks ; and all over are books in immense numbers, some one hundred thousand. Went up the old oaken stairs to the Picture Gallery ; here are some three hundred pic- tures of Chancellors, Men, and Masters, of all times, and among them some good Vandykes ; capital portraits of Dean Swift, Jonson, Prior, Addison, and Pope, many fine 80 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. busts and models, particularly those of the Errectheam, and of the Maison Carre of Nismes with many finely sculptured archways, surrounded with book-cases. Our guide met us here, and conducted us to the old Divinity School. It has an exquisitely wrought Gothic stone ceiling, and is full of beautiful sculpture. Charles I. held his Oxford Parlia- ment here and Oliver used it as a stable : then to the Con- vocation Room ; plain Gothic, with a lofty roof; then to the Theatre, a splendid roof, finely painted, with the Muses, by Thoruville, is a circular form, with lofty dome, gilding, fine carving and Rostra, then to New College Cha- pel — most superb ; its east and west windows are by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; with the life size figures of the Virtues, and Christ's History ; here are some exquisite choir stained win- dows, and sculptures on the altar, by Westmacott, with a carved altar-screen, old crozier, and fine brasses, and richly tesselated pavements. Passing Trinity and Baliol Colleges, looked at the beautiful Gothic monument, erected lately to the martyr bishops, Ridley, Latimer, and Cranmer : it is beautiful, with fine inscriptions ; then passed the Cla- rendon and the University Press ; looked into St. Mary Magdalen's Church ; it is fine, though somewhat in modern style. There is service here daily twice ; then to the old Church of " St. Peter in the East;" the interior is modern, but there are some old stainings, and a fine old crypt, with an underground passage leading two miles off, to Godis- towe Nunnery ; then to Christ Church ; in its Noble house DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 81 quadrangle : waited a few moments, and Dr. Pusey, canon of this Cathedral, and fellow resident of the College, came along from his rooms. His eyes were downcast ; sandy hair, projecting features, hurried gait, and earnest anxious look. He has just finished his ecclesiastical sentence of suspension, and he passed close by me, in his robes, to the Chapel, for the evening service, at 4, P. M. : followed to the Chapel, which is of Norman style ; sat in the Nave a few moments ; the choir sang very finely. Before me was the pulpit, where Pusey preached that sermon for which he was suspended : walked out into the beautiful alley, and around the fine meadows and gardens ; then went to old Merton, the oldest College here, of the time of the Conqueror; walked through its monastic Library, with its oaken bench- es, and book frames, with chained books, oaken roof and floor, all of the Middle Ages ; to its ancient Chapel, its monument of Bodley, and fine altar-window and brasses, and ancient Quadrangle ; then to Magdalen College : en- tered through its fine gateway, over which is carved a beautiful Madonna ; admired the stone pulpit in the corner of the Quadrangle, where the sermon on St. John's day is preached, looked at the curious figures for its orna- ments ; then into the fine gardens, walks, and meadows ; its splendid Park, and rare old trees ; the forty deer still kept according to the statute of Bishop Wayn- flete, the founder, were lying in the front Park : here are the old city walls, still in good preservation ; then to 6 82 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. Oriel College, looked around its spacious Quadrangle ; then to Addison's Walk, a fine alley bordering a meadow, over- hung by beech, oak, and lime trees ; then came back to Queen's College, on the High Street ; its open dome over the arched entrance, covers a fine statue of Philippa, Queen of Edward I. Its Cloisters and Quadrangle are the finest here ; its Library is quite modern ; the~ceiling is exquis- itely moulded in flowers, birds, etc. There are many fine carvings, by Gibbons, upon the bookcases ; the floor is of polished oak ; a fine bust of Locke is on the mantel, set in a well moulded niche, with some good paintings ; the whole is in the Grecian style, and beautiful. Walked down to Magdalen Bridge ; hence is the best view of Oxford : the fine old tower of Magdalen, with its bluish brown stone, is before you ; beyond, is the superb Lantern Tower of Mer- ton, the dome of the Radcliffe Library, and the spires of Christ Church, all rising from amongst the yews and elms of their fine Parks ; and, on either side, is the narrow and beautiful Isis, with its fine curves and rich meadows, and rolling country. Perhaps it is not equal as ^a landscape, to the view of Durham from the Prebend's Bridge. Returning, dined poorly at the Angel ; took rails for town and arrived about ten, P. M., finding on table a note enclosing a bencher's order, to see the new hall and Library of Lincoln's Inn for to-morrow. 12th. — Took the ladies and went down to Lincoln's Inn Hall ; it is very large,J oaken" roof, with gilt pendants, DIARY OF A TOUR IX EUROPE. 83 stone floor, with many beautifully stained windows, and a rich oaken carved screen, at the foot, with figures, of life size, in wood carving ; six of them in full costumes, as Bishops, Chancellors, and Judges. The tables were being set. The Gothic dome of the vestibule is beautifully wrought, and lit by stainings at the top, and is finer than that of the Temple Church. On the left of this dome is the hall, and, on the right, the library : an oblong room, oaken floor, and gilt carved oak, and gilded roof, with two fine sax- on-arched windows at the ends ; in the centre, and facing the entrance-door, is a superb window filled with the Royal arms, emblazoned in gold and crimson. The books are beau- tifully arranged, in three stories, with winding iron stair- cases, and writing-tables within railed recesses. The libra- ry is composed, two thirds, of miscellaneous books. Returning through the Fields, went over to Covent Garden Market ; it be- ing market-day, and late market at 1, P.M. ; the best hour to see the Market, is 6, A. M. Strawberries were abundant, and enormously large : walked about on the terrace, and looked at the pretty show of flowers ; and the fine view hence down the length of the Market. It seems a complete bazaar, and very neat and clean. Thence, went to Grave's shop, 6 Pall Mall, and looked at Powers' fine statue of the Neapolitan Boy, with conch-shell to his ear ; then to the ex- hibition of the old society of Painters in water colors ; they are inferior to those of the new society : went up to No. 44 Oxford street, and looked at the enormous glass candelabra, 84 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 15 feet high, ordered by Ibrahim Pasha, one of a pair, at a cost of £1500 : it is beautiful, chaste, and rich, with much fine mouldings, and engraving, and comes apart in sections for the voyage. 13. — Sunday. — Very showery, and misty. R. called in the morning, and left me an order for the Mint ; called in the morning in Gordon Square. In the evening went to St. John's Chapel, Millman Row, and heard Reverend Baptist Noel ; a good sermon, with an earnest manner, but plain, and without attempt at eloquence. Mr. Noel succeeded to the Rev. Mr. Cecil, as the minister of this Chapel. 14th. — Went with B. down to Southwark, and, giving our names, went over the immense Brewery of Barclay, Perkins & Co. It covers six acres; and its usual product is ten thousand gallons of ale, porter, and stout, per week : four hundred men are regularly employed, and one hundred and eighty Yorkshire horses : went over every fpart of it. The establishment is complete in itself, including coopers, and all other necessary trades : went through house after house ; the first, with enormous coppers and mashtubs : all the floors are of iron. The malt is put in a mill between two rollers, of iron, and cracked : there are three or four of these mills propelled by steam, and then it is carried up in boxes, on inclined planes ; each box holding half a quar- ter, and sixty going up hourly to the top of the great cop- pers, where it falls in, and is boiled, and then carried off by numerous tubes, into the mash tubs, where the liquor filters DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 85 through the bottom, then descends into great vats, with parachute-like copper tops, to take off the filth, and then with ranges of enormous vats, twenty-four feet square, and seventy feet'deep, where it ferments ; and then by many pipes to a house filled with hogsheads, linked together by pipes, whence it is carried into great cooling houses and refrigera- tors ; then, by large underground pipes, to the great vat house, where there were nearly one hundred vats, some hold- ing three thousand five hundred, and some near four thou- sand barrels, (each, of thirty-six gallons,) and arranged around a handsome gallery ; and from these vats descend pipes through iron pillars, with faucets, whence the barrels are filled. The streets are crossed by their suspension bridges, at great heights ; went through their stables, nearly as extensive ; after the same style, and nearly as fine as those of Windsor. The firm consists of twelve partners, and has existed for nearly a century. Afternoon at home, writing, etc. Evening, with Herman, German. 15th. — My order for the Mint took in five persons ; with B. and D. and ladies, went down about 11, A. M. : the officers were very attentive, and explained the whole pro- cess ; they were then coining sovereigns and half sove- reigns — farthings, and a new silver crown piece, stamped like the Angel of Elizabeth's reign. The gold comes to the Mint in wedges ; is placed under rollers and compressed into plates, and strips, of about two inches in width, and one »yard long ; is then drawn out by machinery, then cut 86 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. in thirds, then carried to a circle of punches, in shape like a notarial seal press, where the circle of gold is pressed, and cut out of the standard diameter, falling down into a kind of tray, and carried into the die presses, where, as it is stamped, a tongue of iron pushes it off, into a receiving trough, and supplies another piece of gold on the die. All the machienry is by steam power, and works to exactitude ; something like five sovereigns a minute were being stamped. After going through the Mint, obtained an order, and went to view the St. Catherine's Docks, which are nearly oppo- site ; they are more extensive than the London Docks ; walked through near half a mile of warehouses, each of dif- ferent goods, and each department in perfect neatness and order, extending in a grand square about the basin or dock. The warehouses are each some five stories high, and one hundred feet square, with stone pillars, and the lower floors of iron, with huge derricks in front, and everywhere the ticketed, labelled, and numbered porter, guard, attendant, and clerk, each in his place. Home writing letters rest of day, and evening. 16th. — Very rainy. Morning down in city at Putnam's, writing notes etc., lunched home, and spent the afternoon writing and reading. Evening went to a dinner party; given at R.'s No. 5 Cornwall Crescent, Camden, fine din- ner and house. 17th. — Home all day, raining as yesterday, writing letters for steamer. Evening at Herman's. DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 87 ' 18th. — After making a few small purchases at the Pan- theon, which is certainly one of the most beautiful Bazaars here : being larger than Stewart's with us, and greatly- more elegant ; including every thing like fancy articles of all kinds at quite reasonable prices and a fine conservatory ; made a few calls first, and returned home early to go to the morn- ing Dress Concert. At 1, P. M. at the Covent Garden Opera House the Stabat Mater was performed by this un- equalled company, chorus and orchestra ; nothing could excel Alboni in the " Fac ut portem ;" " Inflammatus," as sung by Grisi, and the Duet, " Quis est homo," by Ronconi and Alboni. In the second part the whole company sang Rossini's last a La Carita," and we had the overtures to Semiramide, and Oberon ; besides several exquisite solos by Salvi and Ronconi ; true music can never be fully described. I can only say it seemed near perfection. The house was very full, and many there of the nobility. Evening spent with Dr. Herman in German conversation. 19th. — Having on the 16th instant, received a long and cordial invitation, from Martin Farquhar Tupper, to come down to-day and spend it with him, at his seat in the Vale of Albury, near Guilford Surrey ; took cab down to Hunger- ford Bridge, and then one of the iron steamers, called the " Wedding Ring," for the Vauxhall Bridge, and the Nine Elms Station; where, taking the half -past 10, A. M., rails for Guilford, arrived there about half-past twelve, and took 83 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. coach and drove four miles over to Albury. His seat is just out of the village ; a house after the style of Charles the First's time ; indeed, a portion of itVas erected by his ancestors, at that period : and in the interior, it is but little changed : it is quite large, with a circular little park ; where are some Lebanon cedars, French oaks, and fine yews. It is in the bosom of a sweet valley : its entrance is a Gothic portal, on the south side ; and along this front, planted arbour -wise, grow many lovely climbing roses, at some con- siderable height from the ground. I sent in my card, and was ushered into the drawing-room ; a large and beautiful apartment, at the west end of the house, with French case- ment windows ; at either side of the door, are two large and richly inlaid cabinets ; above the mantel is a superb Guido, a life size of Diana, rising with her crown, really beautiful ; opposite, are some fine Teniers, and the remaining space is well covered with the masters ; between the two further win- dows, on a composite pedestal, revolving, is a beautiful life- size statue of " The Girl tying her Sandal," by Schadow. Mr. T. told me that his father gave two hundred guineas for it ; the furniture is in admirable taste ; I waited a mo- ment and Mr. Tupper came in, with a joyous welcome ; he is short in person; his portrait which he gave me, will well enough depict him. We talked awhile together about America, and then he read me over two good poems, which he had just written at Ascot ; then introduced his wife. He] talked on, unrestrainedly, and with some power, DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 89 about men and books, and how pleasantly lie lived here; said he liked, and corresponded with Willis and M. and particularly liked the book by the latter. Lunch was being prepared, and presently we went through the hall, hung around with portraits of his ances- tors, in stern old Elizabethan ruffs and rapiers, to the dining room, at the other end of the cottage ; this, like the rest, is filled with the masters ; at the left corner of the further end, are some curious paintings upon marble, by the Chevalier Tempesta, and very ancient ; he was a Cuyp of his time ; there are four of them. The artist has left the veins of the marble exposed, when it was requisite to show the waves in the Red Sea, at the destruction of Pharaoh ; the figures and animals are admirably done. We sat down together to a hearty lunch, seasoned by Tupper's fine way of talking, and of thought. After lunch, we started on a country ramble ; it being a superb clay ; and walked together for miles, in earnest happy conversation, over hill and dale, now stopping to look at the noble prospect of distant hills, then at the fine farming valleys, forming a scenery altogether, more like Derbyshire than anything else : he pointed out a corner of a distant field, as evidently the site of a Roman Castrum, where he had recently found numerous Roman coins and tiles, which he afterwards showed me in his cabinet. Returning, after our delightful walk, we met his happy children on the green ; his Selwyn and Ellyn, his Mary and Charles, and the rest ; indeed, six in all : they are worthy of his poetry ; 90 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. his eldest, Martin Charles Selwyn, is a noble boy, of perhaps eight years old. He had invited a neighbor, Mr. W. who had been in America, to meet me ; we went up stairs together, to dress for dinner, and then he showed me the gold medal just presented to him by the King of Prussia, for his Proverbial Philosophy; and also a box, made from Washington's coffin, of oak, sent to him from America, with a sonnet, by A. W. Boynton. We soon sat down to dinner : a capital one, with excellent wine, (Bucellus,) and we talked together delightedly, for some three or four hours, about books, the notables of America, and my own contemplated tour : it seemed as though we should never finish. After dinner, he presented me with a copy of his " Thousand Lines," writing my name and his in it ; also, a beautiful portrait of himself; and Mrs. T. gave me a fine bouquet from their garden. Presently the pony chaise was brought up, as we meant to make a circuitous drive, down to Guil- ford; we mounted, parting like friends of long years. Mr. Tupper drove me first, along an elevated road, commanding extensive and rich prospects ; then, over the sward, into a Druidical circle ; here were huge service trees, over thirty feet in girth; we alighted and measured one ; it was very curious, as at the bottom, from eighteen feet high down to the ground, a yew had grown thriftily upon it, whilst the top was blooming, with service berries ; a little further on, in the distance, is the picturesque ruin of St. Martha's Church, now being restored ; and rising the hill, a DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 91 long way off, we saw the Towers of Windsor, and the long smoky outline of distant London : the view here extended for forty miles each way. We soon got to Guildford, and driving down the main street, looking quaint, like York. I alighted a moment, and ran into Archbishop Abbott's Hos- pital, founded here in sixteen hundred and sixteen, for a master and twelve men; a plain, open quadrangle, with some fine stainings in its little chapel ; at a turning, near here, just around the corner, is the house where the Arch- bishop was born. We looked at the fine old Castle of Guild- ford ; the quaint old Saxon and Norman Churches here ; and at last, got to the station, ^promising to correspond ; and with many warm wishes, and good counsels he took his leave, and I arrived home, about 10, P. M. 20th. — After breakfast, wrote to Tupper; and went to church at the chapel of St. Margaret, of Westminster ; poor sermon ; fine church and music. The interior is quite new ,* spent the afternoon at home, writing and study. Evening at 37 Gordon Square ; D. met me there, and spent an hour afterwards with me at my room. 21 st. — Furnished with an introduction to Dr. Hartwell Home, I went this morning to the British Museum ; and going through the Gallery of Antiquities and the Egyptian Gallery, and the Townley collection, I reached the Library door, which was closed to the public to-day : it was, how- ever, opened to me ; and going through many grand rooms, at last found Dr. Home, in one of the MSS. rooms, leaning 92 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. against a pillar, in conversation with a group of gentlemen, the Assistant Librarians : he received me with the utmost courtesy ; and, (it was half-past 10, A. M., when I first met him,) he left me only, at the outer entrance, at 3, P. M. I need not write out another, and feeble description of this Museum ; to do so, of course, would take a volume. Dr. Home conducted me to the great library of George III : presented by George IV., in eighteen hundred and twenty- two ; a most superb collection and room : with fine oak floor ; superb pillars of marble, and finely moulded ceiling : then, into the great room : its extreme length is eight hun- dred feet, completely lined with books, for three and four stories high ; at the upper end is the Authors' Reading Room, and so great is the distance, that although forty or fifty Librarians and assistants are employed, a book is waited for from ten minutes to half an hour. The floors are of stone ; the roof of brick, and arched to sever it from the next floor ; the heat is from steam pipes ; the books are in strong brick cases, thickly stowed, and covered mostly with net-work of brass wire ; the book cases are placed in square recesses, in which are desks for the librarians ; along the centre, in elegant cases of oak, covered with single glass plates, are contained the great treasures of the Library ; a great number of these, Dr. Home showed me ; here were several Caxtons; Pope's Homer, in the original MSS., on the backs of letters, in his own hand ; Shakespeare's auto- graph ; also, Luther's and Melancthon's, upon their own DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 93 original bibles ; Laclj Jane Grey's prayer book, with auto- graph ; Elizabeth's psalter, in Norman French, in her own hand, and with her signature : the first copy, printed fifteen hundred and twenty-two, of the Complutensian Polyglott ; another Polyglott, printed in fifteen hundred and sixteen, the earliest in the world ; Miles Coverdale's bible, the first and original copy : and in taking this down, Dr. Home observed that it was the author of a very pleasant incident to him : on the fly leaf, is the date : October 4th, 1538 ; which is thus, the date of the first entire English scrip- tures ; he took it down about May, eighteen hundred and thirty-eight, and he remembered then, that the next fourth of October, eighteen hundred and thirty-eight, would com- plete three centuries from its first publication : the thought struck him with great force : he immediately wrote a memorial to the clergy, upon the propriety of a jubilee on that day, and which, by the almanac, came on a Sunday ; he made addresses on the subject to the convocation of the church, and his design was at length adopted. Sermons in commemoration of so great an event, were delivered that day in all the churches here ; and the Bishops Doane and Mcll- vane, as he had understood, likewise preached on the same day, and for the same purpose in America. He told it with simplicity and deep feeling. Tyndal's new testament, in the original edition, is also in the Library, but I did not see it. There are great numbers of exquisite and large specimens of binding in gold and pearls, as early as Henry 94 L>IARY OF A TOUR Ilf EUROPE. IV. of France ; and also, many original Aldine classics with autograph notes, by Erasmus and Casaubon ; Lord Chief Justice Hale's original MSS. and autograph, and many hundred other learned curiosities. We went together over the whole Library, into the Harleian and Cottonian MSS. room ; into the vaults of the Newspapers and Periodicals ; looked at the fifty or sixty authors, who were then busy in their reading room; then into the museum, and into the Egyptian rooms, where is the Rosetta stone ; the Minera- logical room, the Etruscan room, and of the Bronzes ; the rooms of the Natural History ; and those of the Elgin, and the Townley marbles, and the Gallery of Antiquities ; and he left me at the entrance, at the above mentioned time. En- gaged on Saturday, to go with him to Christ's Church Hos- pital, and the Heralds College. Mr. Home is of short stature, plain face, and meek, earnest manners ; says he will be sixty years of age in two or three days. He wears the Clerical dress : being rector of " St. Edmond's, by the Wardrobe," in the city ; a living worth £300 a year, out of which, he has to pay in yearly taxes, £100. He told me he was left an orphan, at eight years old, and went to Christ's Church Hospital : left at fifteen, being then, one of the upper Grecian boys : there was then but one exhibi- tion at the University of Cambridge, from this school, and it took more interest than he possessed to obtain it. He had taught himself Hebrew, and several modern languages ; had been twenty-two years, come next Michaelmas, in this DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 95 Library, and had spent several years in digesting a classi- fied catalogue, in which, in his own department of Theology, he had made great progress ; when Brougham introduced Panizzi, (who speaks seventeen languages,) as a Librarian : and Parliament ordered Home's plan to be given up, and an alphabetical catalogue to be commenced : they had since spent some years on this, and were now engaged, (some forty men in all,) upon the letter D. There are about four hundred and seventy thousand books here ; and this number is continually increasing. They have a nearly complete collection of American books, I believe, near- ly forty thousand, as he said, of law books, and others ; of every book printed in England, and entered at the Stationers' Hall, a copy is sent here. A copy of each newspaper when two years old, is deposited here and bound for judicial reference. Parliament grants to the library £20,000 annually ; there are in all some sixty librarians and assistants. No fires, lights, or sealing, are allowed. Every night, a watchman makes a tour of the whole Jmilding to detect fire, or persons secreted. Dr. Home had only known of one instance of the latter, and this was some one who had fallen asleep from fatigue. No fees, whatever, are allowed. Every one, on a proper order from the directors, can use the books, which are not allowed to be taken from the rooms. He described everything minutely to me : spoke very intimately of the U. S., of the Church there, and of the Onderdonk affair. _ He was a Low 96 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. Churchman himself, and thought the present Cabinet had fully sustained its pledges to the Church, except in Wat- Bon's Bill, which he called Popish. Introduced me to Pro- fessor Lee, the Orientalist, at Cambridge. Said his time was perfectly systematized ; Saturdays, and the time occu- pied in riding up and down by the omnibus, were the only seasons he had for reading. Showed me Mr. Kewerston, the celebrated Sanscrit and Arabic scholar, now engaged on a Polyglott, and the Ignatian Epistles, etc., and men- tioned that they had also a Chinese scholar there, and that the prayer book in Chinese was nearly printed, etc., etc. Every librarian has to make a daily report to the directors, of his progress, through the day, in his allotted task. The best account of the whole Museum and library, Dr. Home thought was in the Penny Cyclopedia. 22d. — Rose Early and drove over to the Eastern Counties Railway Station, where I met D. and Sidney A. ; took rails at 7. 15, and got to Cambridge at 9 ; breakfasted at the Bull Inn, an excellent House ; called on Professor Lee at Trinity ; term over, and he had gone up to his Rectory at Barley, Herefordshire. After breakfast, and whilst sitting in front of the house, Mr. Robert B., of New Rochelle, N. Y., who was down here on a visit passed the door and recognized. He was engaged in copying pictures, and brought his brother down, who is a commoner at Corpus Christi, who kindly de- voted the whole day to us. Went first to King's College DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 97 Chapel, looked at its beautiful carvings and stainings, and no- ble proportions, went up above the roof, and had a noble view — Then to the Senate Hall, now being fitted up for the Instal- lation of Prince Albert as Chancellor ; then, into the beauti- ful gardens, and over the bridges, looking at St. John's College, and its superb new buildings; then to Trinity College, went through its fine court, to the chapel ; here are the statues of Newton, Dr. Wordsworth, Porson — old Hooker, and others, with fine oak carvings, and good altar painting ; then to the library, rich with the carving of Gibbon, and Thorwaldsens divine Statue of Byron. In one corner, in a recess is the Lycidas in Milton's own hand. The last line in the MSS. is all that is corrected; it is thus ending, leaving his own corrections for euphony : " To-mor- row to fresh fields and woods new," and also his sketch or design, and dramatis personee, for the Paradise, also, Newton's own, self-made, original Telescope; a beautiful Roman tesselated table, and the sides of the Room are every where ornamented with superb Busts by Roubillac. We then went into the great Hall; — a noble gothic-room. Over the front gateway of this College, are the four rooms which Newton always occupied, in no way altered now. We went through the gate of Honor to old Cauis ; looked at old Sidney Sussex, Cromwell's College, then to Corpus Christi, and went into its fine hall ; Archbishop Teunison presides here yet ; and • then into the Fellow's Combination room ; then, to Christ's College and tliA ^vden (Milton's) ; who was a Fellow 98 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. here ; they show a fine mulberry, said to have been planted by him, and I plucked some fine roses here ; near by is the great Fish pond, with the giant carp said to be 72 years old : a whale among the rest ; then to St. Sepulchre's or the Tem- plar's Church. The Nave is of the 8th, or 9th century ; Two encaustic tiles were shown me as found here lately, evidently very old, but still quite fresh and the Church is paved with tiles like them. It is of course like the Tomb, and the Church at Jerusalem ; the east window is beautiful- ly stained. How much the Templar's helmet is like this Nave. There are no Templar's Monuments here. A very fine Organ, completely concealed behind a stone Screen ; it was playing as we entered, next to the University Library, it is of course very extensive, the ceiling is moulded in the Elizabethan style, but the new room with its fine bold arch and Grecian mouldings is one of the finest things here ; the old rooms are'now coming down, all to be rebuilt in this style ; then, to the Fitzwilliam Gallery where there are some two hundred masters ; the Rembrandts are very fine, also a Madonna by Carlo Dolci, and many other gems, but there are much better collections ; they showed me here Queen Eliza- beth's virginal book containing some eight hundred pages of quarto music for Corantos, Galliards etc., arranged and writ- ten by her masters, beautifully done ; the stave used was of six lines ; then, went down to King's College Chapel again, and delightedly listened to the exquisite music of the evening service ; then, to our Inn and home at 10, P. M., a bright day. DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 99 23d. — Very showery. Made a few calls in the morning ; spent the afternoon in writing etc., evening with Dr. Her- man. 24th. — Went down with Mr. R. and Dr. C. to Rosher- ville Gardens, Gravesend, rather pretty, but too rainy for enjoyment ; evening went to the Princess's, and heard Charles Matthews and Madame Vestris in " Used up" etc. ; an exceedingly clever performance. 25th. — Too rainy to go to Woburn Abbey as I had de- signed ; made a few calls etc. in the morning, studied German and finished letters to U. S. in afternoon ; evening at Dr. Herman's. 26th. — Went down to the Surrey Zoological Gardens in the morning, very ordinary ; afternoon at home ; evening saw Buckstone, Miss Nisbett and Webster, in " Love Chase" and " Jacobins" at the Haymarket ; very excellent. 27th. — Sunday. In the morning pursuant to invitation from Thomas Hartwell Home ; went down to his Chapel of St. Edmond, King and Martyr in Lombard street, a very ancient parish, but the Church has recently (1833) been beau- tifully restored. He reads the service with reveremce and un- derstanding, and in a mild tone ; preached an excellent sermon ; after service introduced me to his wife, and then we went togeth- er to Christ's Church Hospital. As we entered the new great Hall, the Organ was playing, and the Choristers singing beau- tifully their short Psalm before dinner; presently we entered the superb new room, 25 years old ; Gothic ; something like 100 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. Hampton Court Hall; 250 feet long, with fine paintings of James II, and Visits of Victoria and Albert, and rich in stained "win- dows. Nine hundred and seventy Blue Coat Boys sat down to a dinner of Roast Beef and Salad. Dr. Home showed me his grandson here ; told me that fifty-two years ago, when he entered, the fare was poorer. Coleridge and Charles Lamb were here with him, and in his class ; he said Coleridge was of a serious turn, and of remarkable conversational pow- ers, and would often gather around him knots of boy listen- ers to his stories ; he owed him personally a deep obligation for urging him to study harder, whereby he became Upper Grecian. Leaving this Hall we went all around the extensive buildings ; then took cab and drove to Mr. R's., dined with a large party. Evening passed at home. 28th. — Went down with D. to Westminster Hall and saw the Exhibition of Historical Paintings, ordered by commission of Parliament ; 150 in number ; all were good, and some were superb, No. 7, the figure of Peace and the Queen : The Bu- rial of Harold : The Pilgrim Father's : The Battle of Menee : Christ's " Suffer little Children," and Design for painted window and many others. M. F. Tupper came and dined with me in the evening. 29th. — In the 8 30 A. M. train to Tunbridge, driving through a beautiful country, rolling and rich ; took carriage thence, and drove 7 miles over to Knowle Park, the seat of the Earl of Amherst, former Ambassador to China. The road winds over lofty hills and the views are nearly 40 miles in ex- DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 101 tent, and of the finest character. We arrived soon at the Seven Oaks, the pretty village at the Gate, and walked some half an hour before the gates were opened, in the Park. It is magnificent ; studded with huge ancestral oaks and elms, and rolling hills of grand extent, with deer. The scenery looks like the Windermere country. We entered the Palace by the fine Baronial Hall : it is antique, and rich in carvings and paintings. There is the Old Music Gallery, and the Dais for " My Lord" opposite. We went through many Galleries of Paintings, some are very fine : in the Brown Galery is a portrait of Ninon de'lEnclos, taken at the age of 70 years, beautifully executed, she was even then very lovely. The rooms retain their antique furniture ; rich silver fire dogs, (which have been copied in the Pictorial Shakspeare :) and here is the room where King James I. slept on a visit here, in one of his progresses, and well preserved, with the bed in rich embroidery, tables, mirrors, and toilet furniture all of silver and fine arras ; a great many fine paintings by Kneller and Lely, a very fine head in the corner of the sitting room, by Rembrandt ; some Guidos and Corregio's. From the fine old bay windows of the drawing room the view over the exquisite Gardens and Park is delight- ful. The house is very ancient, being first built in the reign of King John ; irregular and massive, without much exterior ornament : castellated, but the round towers and keeps, &c, have gone ; and now it is composed of but two irregular quad- rangles successively ; a fine old Chapel with stainings, and latticed pew for my Lord. The road from the Gate, winds 102 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. for near a mile, up elevated ground, and the chance views of the house through the grand trees are fine. We spent some two hours here, and then drove over to Penshurst ; it is seven miles off; returning on the same road, and turning off some three miles from Tunbridge. The front of Penshurst Place is more imposing than that of Knowle, but it is smaller and more recent, built in the reign of Edward VI. We first en- tered the fine old Parish Church adjoining : in the choir aisle are the tombs of the Sidneys ; Sir Philip lies here in efligy, and there are many others of the family there ; it is a noble old Church, with a fine tower, near which a gateway leads to the Place ; its Baronial Hall has been disfigured by attempts at frescos, which are unfinished ; but the oak roof is unin- jured ; in the centre are massive fire irons, and a fireplace very ancient. The house is now in great disorder : there are many fine portraits of the Sidneys, and also Sir Philip's sword, Buckingham's bridle, &c, Queen Elizabeth's room, with her state bed and the furniture of the room, embroidered with her own hands, is left in its original richness ; with fine arras hangings, and many fine paintings. The old disordered armory has many relics ; Charles I's boots, and many pieces of armor of that and earlier times. Lord de Lisle is its present owner, and he is a Sidney, in the Life Guards : the exterior has been repaired, but the interior is neglected : the Park is pretty ; the moat and parapet are planted with flow- ers ; the roses were in full bloom here, as everywhere else about this country, climbing over the hedges and cottage DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 103 thatch. Returned to Tunbridge, and while dinner was pre- paring, visited the fine ruins of the Castle here : the great tower, with the moat, and part of the look-out tower alone, remain : it stands some 70 feet high, above the Medway riv- er ; it was built by the Conquerer, and is of enormous size and strength. The views here are most beautiful, with the heavy foliage, clustering thick, and climbing to the summit. The earth has filled up the look-out tower, and it is now a gar- den. After dinner at the Rose and Crown we returned to town. 30th. — At home in the morning ; in the city on business in the afternoon. July 1. — Went with Mr. R. over the Bank of England. Its buildings cover 4 acres ; 900 clerks and subordinates are .employed. Went through every portion except the vaults ; admired the ingenious machinery for weighing Sovereigns, numbering pages of books, the Tell-Tale to announce the number of printed sheets, and the exhaustion pump to cool the atmosphere produced by the hot air pipes. Spent two hours at the Bank, then to the Polytechnic Institution. A model of the Wheatstone's Telegraph was exhibited in oper- ation. It worked by making the needles deflect by handles, and watching their turnings ; slow, imperfect, and much in- ferior to Morse's. Afternoon at home. 2d. — Designed going to Woburn, but too cloudy. Called on S. in the morning ; accepted his invite for Sunday to his Box in Berks. Afternoon spent writing at home. Evening with Dr. Herman. 104 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 3rd. — Morning called on Mrs. R . Afternoon at home writing. Evening at Her Majesty's Theatre to hear Jenny Lind. Of course, the house was crowded in every part. The Queen, Prince Waldemar, and great numbers of the no- bility were there. Jenny performed Amina in Somnambula. She is handsomer than the pictures. Her tones are inex- pressibly sweet ; her action the finest I ever saw ; so appa- rently natural, and con amore, and yet so lady like. "Ah non ginnge," was encored 5 times, and in it she displayed wondrous power. Grisi and her power fade away in compari- son ; but the Company and the Orchestra are very ordinary. Gardoni, the tenor is all that is worthy of praise. Her whis- pered singing of "Oh ! come lieto e il popolo," and "al tempio ne fa scortea," and of "Ardon le sacre tede," and "0! . Madre Mia m'aita," and "non mi sostiene il pie," and "al mio," &c, was overpoweringly fine. In fact, none can resist being swept off into raptures, with her matchless performance. Carlotta Grisi danced La Esmeralda superbly. 4th. — Dinner party at a country seat on the Thames. 6th. — Visited Winchester; its Cathedral and Hospital of St. Cross, and spent two days there. 7th. — At Southampton, intending to visit the Isle of Wight, but the weather was not propitious. Called on our Consul here, Mr. Rodney, of Va. ; then took carriage and drove about the town and around it, passing many beautiful country seats, and finely arbored woods, to Net- ley Abbey, a most perfect and extensive Ruin. It is beau- DIARY OP A TOUR IN EUROPE. 105 tiful. Here yet is the Nave with its two great windows, roofless and ivy clad ; a root of a felled tree, by its circles, 300 years old, is in the centre, and younger, though gigantic oaks clus- ter around ; and also the transepts, cloisters, Lady Chapel, Refectory, Kitchen, with its strange old fire places, and over these are still the old stone roofs ; and also the great quad- rangle ; and here was a large pic-nic party in great glee. The country around is beautiful. The ripe grain was waving in the fine breeze luxuriantly about it. Returned to Hotel, dined, and Jhen D. parted from me to take the Rails to Lon- don at 6 P. M ; upon the Quay, as I went on board the Steamer Grand Turk, for Havre. We had a lovely sail, be- ing a very fine night, passing Ryde and Portsmouth, and arrived at Havre at 6. A. M. 8th. — Breakfasted at Hotel de PEurope, and then took at 10 A. M., rails to Rouen, where I stayed till 6 P. M., rambling about the town ; admired the fine old Cathedral, the church of St. Ouen., Palais de la Justice; its fine Oak ceiling, and La Place de la Pucelle. Took rails again through a lovely country, in fine cars, and arrived at Paris at 10 1-2 P. M., and drove to Meurices. 9th. — Made a number of calls in the morning; and the afternoon ; evening at Franconis. 10th. — Morning, went through one Gallery of the Louvre, their immensity and crowd of pictures, prevents one from get- ting a complete idea ; weather excessively warm. 11th. — Sunday. Spent the morning at Pere la Claise. It 105 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. is vastly over praised and perhaps not equal even to our Greenwood or Auburn ; afternoon made some calls. 12th. — Weather do ; Spent an hour at the Chamber of Deputies, then went to the beautiful Madeleine, then to Notre Dame, where I could not but admire the new Monument to Bishop de Ligne : the fine paintings of Christ restoring to life, the son of the widow Nain, the entombment of the Virgin, &c; then to the Pantheon, and one cannot help being much more pleased with the beautiful paintings and the carved and winding staircase, around the columns of the choir and the rarely stained windows in the Church of St. Etienne which is near by ; Evening at home. 13th. — Passed the day at Versailles ; went all over the Palace, the Jardins, and the Trianons delightedly. 14th. — Rev. Dr. H , of New York meeting me at the Hotel this morning, we went out together to the Hotel de Invalides : the Tomb of Napoleon &c, was not allowed to be seen being incomplete ; then to the Church of St/Sulpice, and then to the delightful Fabrique des Gobelines. In the salle de PExposition here, are the fine pictures of the "Destruction of the Mamelukes" infinitely beyond the most exquisite paint- ing — also, " Peter the Great saved by his mother," and the full lengths of the King, Queen, and Royal family with many others ; and also the superb Carpets in course of manufac- ture : it is without doubt the most interesting sight in Paris. Dined with Dr. H. at the Trois Freres and afterwards went out to St. Germains, and made a short call on Mr. Robert Walsh DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE, 107 and family, came home about 11 P. M. and wrote introduc- tion to M. F. Tupper for H. at his request and received from Mr. Tupper his " Ode to Venice." 15th. — Spent all day in business and calls ; at Madame de Nerval, met Mrs. B. from N. Y. Dr. H. dined with me : after dinner, Dr. Brewster came with his trotting carriage and drove me out to the Bois de Boulogne, stopping a while together at the Mabilles, to look at the Bal Champetre there, and I spent the evening with him at his house, 11 Rue de la Paix. 16th. — Writing letters all day. Received letters from my mother and S. N. D., each answered, wrote also to Tup- per to be sent by H. and also note inclosing a copy of his Venus to D. by the same hand, to be published in the Litera- ry world ; called in the evening on some friends and received in- troductions for Smyrna. 17th. — At 7 30 A. M., took my seat in the Voiture Sa- lon of the Train, for Brussels. This carriage is a most superb affair : square, beautifully lined and tapestried, hold- ing nine persons, with luxurious cushions, and mirrored ; two of them upon one car. Rode till 6 P. M. ; the route through France to Quieorain is without interest ; but from this point, which is the Frontier, it suddenly changes into great loveliness. Everywhere are smiling wheat fields, and verdure like a Home landscape. We stopped at Mons; strongly walled, with a picturesque Cathedral. The peasant- ry were tidy in their dress, and at work in their fields ; a 108 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. scene of happy industry, and a wide contrast to France. The view of Brussels, as you approach it on the Rails, is beauti- ful. The country rises with rich verdure ; thrifty, covered with neat white farm houses. This Railway is called the " Cheinin de Fer dp Nord." Our Train was over 1-4 of a mile long, propelled by two enormous locomotives, larger than those on the Great Western Railroad of (England,) and ad- mirably managed, with scarcely any perceptible motion to the Car, at an average speed of about 20 miles per hour. Drove to the Hotel de Belle Vue, in the Place Royale, so famous for the Duchess of Richmond's Ball, June 17th, 1815. It is facing the beautiful Park, and next to the Palace of the Prince of Orange. It is very clean, like every thing else here ; the apartments are superbly furnished, and very large, with every attention shown. Meurices is verv much inferior. After dinner, took a short stroll in the beautiful Park, op- posite, and retired early. 18th. — Sunday, one month ago to-day, in 1815, and Water- loo was fought ; unconscious at the moment of its near anniver- sary, had by request been called to an early breakfast, and took my seat in a carriage for the field. We arrived at 11 A. M., at Hougemont, the very hour when the Great Drama com- menced, and as our guide, Martin Viseur, who witnessed it, said, the weather then of the previous night was like that of yesterday'and to-day ; stormy, with heavy lightning, thun- der and rain, and the day itself and the hour fair, though slight- ly clouded. By the same road from Brussels South to Water- DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 109 loo, through which we passed, the Allies came, and early in the morning had drawn up fronting upon this road, which con- tinues across the field of battle. The centre was formed in a line, where now stands the Great Mound with the Belgian Lion, and extended to a little farm house on the road, behind La Haye Sainte ; here stood Picton, opposite the mound ; on the right centre was Colonel Halkett's Brigade ; and there, Ney, with the Imperial Guard, charged and broke the British line from 4 30 to 6 o'clock, P. M., of that day : the left wing ex- tended to the wood ; this was under Sir Hussey Vivian, and through this wood, (the Boissey wood,) Blucher came ; the right wing extended as far as the cross road to Nivelles, all making together a line of near one and a half miles long : at the break of day they were more scattered, but about 9 A. M. were formed into condensed squares : behind, to the north-west, at the little church of Merbe Braine, Lord Hill was posted with the reserve. Prior to the action, the Duke had posted three strong parties in advance : on the right, at Hougemont under MacDonnell at about three hundred yards in advance of the right wing, over a gentle valley intervening between the two armies, and about 800 or 1000 yards in width ; another advance party on the left, facing the left centre, or Gen. Picton's Division, at La Haye Sainte, a small but strongly built farm house, now belonging to our guide's mother ; and also another advance at Passiflote, another but smaller farm house near by. On the other side, the French came up from the field of Quartre Bras, through Charleroi, and took up 110 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. their position on a slightly elevated ridge, forming the other rim of this valley ; the right of their centre resting on the farm house still there, called La Belle Alliance, a little to your right Jiand, looking in a straight line southward from La Haye Sainte. Beyond to the right of La Belle Alliance, but still far- ther hack, on a slight hill, is the house of Coster, Napoleon's guide on that day, where was his head-quarters, and from which he was continually seen watching the battle, as it raged. How they fought is on a thousand tongues still living, glad to tell of the great day when all Europe^here struggled for the prize of mastery. My guide says the battle closed some- where about 9 o'clock, P. M., and about 8000 men lay dead upon the field; and about as many more wounded, out of whom, about one in ten survived ; they buried them where they lay, in their uniforms, the soldiers claiming all for their booty, rifling everything valuable, and forcing the peasantry to assist in the burial. The villagers had fled on the lTth, to the neighboring woods, abandoning almost everything. I went first to Hougomont ; into its ruined court yard, among its broken walls, and into that bloody orchard : it is all a de- serted ruin now ; but there is not a stone which is not marked by the balls, and the walls are pierced for musketry in all di- rections. The trees still grow in the orchard, but they are twisted and riven by the shot. After walking very slowly over the scene of the thickest combat, in this blood-stained valley, where the dead lay in heaps five or ten deep, ascended the Mound or Grand Sepulchre, 200 feet high, the grave of DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. HI many thousands : The Belgian Lion, finely cast in bronze, is on the top, to mark the spot where the Prince of Orange was wounded. This mound, was raised, of course, after the bat- tle, for over this groundthe awful charges of Ney were made on Col. Halket's Brigade of the allies' right centre : three times they charged with terrific slaughter : once with 3000, a second time with 4000, and the third time with 6000 men; for near two hours ; and at length the British centre broke, and did not retire in good order, as has been written : on the au- thority of Viseur and Cotton, who fought under Vivian, and was ordered up to reinforce the centre. From the top of the mound the view is superb ; perhaps for three miles north and south, and for one and a half miles wide. It is near the true centre of this gentle valley. What could have been better chosen for a position for either army 1 The field spread out before me, clothed with waving grain, and richly cultured fields ; on the west Hougomont almost covered with its wood, and orchard : to the north, the village of Mont St. Jean and the distant spires of Brussels ; to the east, La Haye Sainte ; to the south, La Belle Alliance, the Coster House, and far off on the horizon, the Monument to mark the bloody day of Qua- tre Bias. I was four hours on the field. Came home about 4 P. M. ; read Tupper's glorious ode on Waterloo, written for this year's Waterloo Banquet ; afterwards walked over to the beautiful Cathedral of St. Gudule ; its pulpit is a mira- cle of wood carving ; Adam and Eve in full size support it, while the angel with the flaming sword drives them away 112 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. from Paradise ; Adam covers his face in despair, and Eve looks up in an agony of grief, one hand still grasping the for- bidden fruit. On the back of the pulpit is the Tree of Knowledge, full of the fruit, and exquisitely wrought : the canopy is upheld by Angels ; its drapery of wood carving, al- most real, is held up by flying Cherubs^who seem to hang in air ; and on the top, is the full length Virgin, erect, holding out a cross, and at her feet the infant Jesus, with his foot on the serpent's head, beautifully carved. At every point, are peacocks, birds, and other animals of life size and in natural positions. The choir and its chapels are lit by the most su- perb stainings. The Lady Chapel, behind the altar, is full of rich sculptures and stainings ; there is a beautiful and re- cent monument in the north transept to Triest, a Canon here, of Charity nurturing a group of children. The church is not so remarkable for its exterior, or for its size. We then went to the Place des Martyres of the Revolution of 1830, situated in a beautiful square, formed of those clear white Ionic col- onnades, which make tins city so charming. The monument is beautiful. The presiding divinity of Belgium is inscribing on a roll, a lion at her side, has broken a heavy chain, which lies at her feet ; around its pedestal, are to be four bas re- liefs, only two of which are now finished, " The Coronation of the Martyrs," and the " Priest blessing their Dead Bo- dies." Both are on a large scale with numerous well execu- ted figures. The great granite pedestal stands in the centre of a paved court or square, some 12 feet below the level of DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROBE. 113 upon black marble tablets are the names of the martyrs. The •whole affair is in beautiful taste. I then walked on to their fine Bouvleards, faced by similar superb houses ; and then to the Allee Verte, or their Hyde Park ; many fine vehicles were driving here, and its green alleys were filled with a happy and well dressed multitude. Upon the Bouvelards near here, are the beautiful Botanical Gardens, seeming almost like the Regent's Park. Returned home about 9 o'clock, P. M. ; wrote up journal and retired early. 19th. — Morning — -Went over the Gallery of Paintings in the Musee Roy ale. They are very numerous. Among the ancients, all by the Flemish masters, there are many very in- different ; but there are two there, a Flemish Woman seated before a mirror attiring her Shawl, and another next to it a Woman combing her hair. There is a gallery here mostly filled by Jourdaens and Rubens. " The angel's visit to Abra- ham" by the former, with some few others, and also Rubens' magnificent " Christ Crucified" are beyond all praise. Among the modern, I was delighted with the " Hagar in the Wilder- ness" and some landscapes near by; went over the Chateau D'Aremberg. Its Gallery is the most delightful treat here ; every picture, perhaps in all three hundred, is a gem. Murray talks thereon at length. Its apartments are furnished magnifi- cently. Then through the Conservatory of the Jardin Botani- que, which is small and recent, though well arranged. Next to the Entrepot, not far off, to view the Exposition des Arts des Beiges opened last week, occurring every six years. It was an 114 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. immense and magnificent display ; its Laces and Gold and Sil- ver work and the productions of every known art, where beyond conception, each specimen is worthy almost of a volume for its wonderful perfection and beauty. After dinner took Rails and arrived at Antwerp at about 10 P. M. and drove to the Hotel de Grand Laboureur on the Place de Meir. 20th. — Started off early lionizing : went first to the Cathe- dral ; like every body else, I wondered at its beautiful paint- ings, and wood carvings of the Choir and Confessionals ; and its exquisitely wrought Tower, light as fairy work, but one of the loftiest in the world. I went up as far as the gallery, where are the Chimes, which in their machinery resemble that of an enormous Organ a la Savoyard. They played every quarter of an hour, and as I entered were playing the Thema of Lucia di Lammermoor ; on the stroke of the hours they play a full air with variations : Their music sounds like a full choir. The view from this gallery is grand. I saw Brussels, Malines, Bergen op Zoom and Flushing, in the distance, and at my feet, quaint, silent old Antwerp ; once when this lofty Tower was raised, alive with industry, but now imbecile, dull, and still as its own canals. I then went oyer the Church of St. Paul. Its wood carvings are beyond praise. At the Transept as you enter, there is a confession- al in carving : The centre — Christ ascending, half length size, borne up by angels : medallions of the two weeping Mary's on either side ; in front, four full sized figures, and particu- larly the priest in his full vestments, and the Virgin holding DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 115 her corsets in her hand. One side of the Church is covered with paintings, one or two by Rubens : then to the musee. This gallery has about a dozen paintings by Rubens : The Crucifixion is on your left as you enter : It is wonderful ; I looked at it for a long while ; and the expression of shrieking agony in the Thief on the right, and the shrinking leg as he tears it from the nail, the soldier breaking his leg, the Joseph in his beautiful red robe averting his eye, in horror ; the Ma- ry's eyes red with weeping, the Magdalen with her angelic face, and both hands lifted, supplicating mercy from the cen- turion, with one arm behind the Cross,"as if embracing it ; whilst the Roman, leaning upon his crossed hands, watches with deep '^interest the Soldier breaking the legs. In the centre the Saviour hangs placid and resigned ; his eyes are about closing as if expiring. I thought I could see pale Death stealing over his outstretched body, which alone is a miracle of painting — then the Soldier on the left, dashing the spear into his'side, and the warm blood starting from the wound ; and the poor thief on the left, writhing his legs about the cross : it took me long to be assured it was art. This is his master-piece — and this is his city. Near by, hangs a modern picture of " Rubens dying ;" — the opened casement shows the beautiful Cathedral-Tower, and the figures and all are excellent. There are, perhaps, three hundred of the other masters of the Flemish school, here ; but all more or less inferior to the crucifixion. His next greatest work here, to my taste, is " Christ showing himself 116 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. to Thomas ; exhibiting the heavenly countenance of our Lord, with the wonderful effect of those opening hands, showing the wounds, and the eager and reverential gaze of the disciples. Here are also many fine Vandycks ; but, are they not all written in John Murray 1 I then went over the Church of St. Jacques. It is rich in marbles, Vandycks, and Jourdaens, and those exquisite wood carvings behind the altar. I stood here upon the family vault of Rubens. Coming out, passed through the Place Verte, to admire the beautiful new bronze statue of Rubens, erected in eighteen hundred and forty; then along the Quais, and, passing the fine house of Rubens, and the Hotel de Ville, home. 21st. At 6, P. M., here I am in Amsterdam. Started this morning at 4, A. M., from Antwerp, on board a fine Steamer, and sailed along quickly enough, though slowly, up the Scheldt and Meuse, passing by Dort, and some little villages, Bergen op Zoom and William Stadt. The country is a dead flat ; the view is unbroken for many miles, save by the Canals and Treckschuyts, the eternal windmills, and the straight mile-long rows of poplars and willows. At Bath, a small frontier fort, we enter Holland, and the Custom House Officer boards. The whole scene for about eighty miles was as above. The towns are of course seen for miles off, and the signal of their vicinity is the increa- ing number of windmills, which are ancient and quaint enough in their structure, bearing dates as early as sixteen DIARY OF A TOUR IX EUROPE. 117 hundred and twelve and eternally flinging about their broad arms. Rotterdam was reached about 12, M. The river here is scarce a stone's throw wide ; the view of the town which I gained in the hour I waited there for the Rail, was pleasing from its likeness to old New York. I return thither ; taking the Rails at 3, P. M. in the diligence or first class car, which is larger, though built like the English, for Amsterdam, where I arrived as above. We passed through the lovliest country, cultivated like a private garden, every foot of earth cultivated ; passing through and stopping at Haarlem, the Hague and Leyden and Dort ; the first two, seeming beautiful cities. I had but fly- ing glimpses of them from the cars ; drove to the Hotel des Pays bas, and retired early. 22d. — There are but few lions here. The Gallery of Paintings ; the Palace and the old Church, are all. I went to the first and last ; the second has rather an imposing ex- terior, with a fine freize on the pediment ; but within, as I was informed, but little else than old and faded relics of former greatness, were to be seen. The paintings are quite numerous ; some dozen by Rembrandt. I could not help liking his " Night Watch," ; and many excellent Cuyps, and Wouverman's ; many Teniers, particularly, his " Tempta- tion of St. Anthony," and many others — all by the Dutch Masters. The old Church has some fine stainings ; two organs, the first being in a superb marble gallery, looking very much out of place, in this architecture, which is a 118 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. strange medley of Gothic and Dutch styles. It was an an- cient Cathedral ; but it is now plain white, and deprived of all ornament. In what might have been the ancient choir, is an enclosure of a Chapel for marriage and baptism. The monuments are in bad taste. Afterwards called on Miss W., in the Heeren Gasse, and spent some hour or so look- ing about the town. It is very curious. Of course, it is a Venice, but of the Dutch species, and nothing could be more disagreeable than the odor from the stagnant waters of the canals. I left Amsterdam about 4, P. M., and, by the same rails, went back to the Hague. Drove to the Oude Doelen, a charming hotel ; took a little stroll around the town, wrote up letters, etc., and retired. 23d. — Consulting as usual, immortal Murray — by his guidance I went to the beautiful Gothic Halls of the Palace of the King ; they are immensely large, and like, but richer than Hampton Court; hung throughout with Dutch and Flemish masters. Here is Ruben's " Christ, and the money of Caesar;" admired the fine [old head on the right, and that of the man offering the money ; the uplifted hand of the Saviour, and the whole group of twelve, gazing so earnestly on Christ ; and next to it is Murillo's " Ascend- ing Virgin ;" it is finer than the similar subject by him in London. Rembrandt's "Grand Vizier ;" many beautiful Cuyps ; some fine Dutch Historical Pictures, and also some Statuary : then, to the Musee Royal. Here is the largest collection of the Dutch masters in the world ; G. DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 119 Deuw's " Woman with a Lamp" looking out of a -window ; Linglebach's "Depart de Charles II., from Scheviningen;" Paul Potter's wonderful " Cattle Piece ;" Rembrandt's " Lesson of Anatomy;" Ruben's "Venus and Adonis;" his " Confessor," an astonishing portrait ; Tenier's " Kitch- en," and "Alchyniist," and "Temptation of St. Anthony ;" a dozen Wouverman's; Cigiani's "Adam and Eve;" a "French Head, after Carlo Dolci," Giordaud's "Concert" of his servants; Guido's "Death of Abel;" Salvator Rosa's " Prometheus and Sisyphus," and his landscapes, perhaps three hundred in all ; down stairs, to the charming gallery of curiosities, from Japan and China ; and also, historical mementos, beautifully arranged, immense in extent, and very interesting. Returning to the Hotel, met Mr. George P., nephew of the dentist in New York, and dentist to the court here ; we walked out together, through the beautiful park, to the " Maison de Bois," a summer palace of the King. It is furnished somewhat like the Trianons ; and there is one room here covered entire, dome and sides, with the most magnificent paintings, by Rubens and his pupils ; the grand triumphal procession, which faces you as you enter, is the most astonishing group, containing nearly one hundred figures of life size, in no confusion, and of exquisite color and action; admired the sea nymphs, pausing to hail the Prince on the right, the Nine Muses on either side of the door way, and the armor which seems to hang out of the wall. It is a grand historical allegory, and 120 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. fresh as of yesterday. After dinner we drove down to Scheviningen, their beautiful sea side baths, and -within three miles from the city ; the fine hotels, beach, and scene, are like our Rockaway. It was curious to see the fishing boats come in from the North Sea, throw out their anchors, and be floated into line by the motion of the waves ; and the crowd of fish women with their coal scuttle bonnets, and gold head-bands, receiving and assorting their [fish, which they buy at the little auction held here, on the beach, when a man with a striped pole, in the centre of the group, cries out the highest price, and they beat down. The whole scene, with the dull fishing boats, realized Backhuysen and Lingelbach's pictures. They take the fish to the Hague upon dog carts, daily ; they form a peculiar race. Re- turned home late. 24th. — By invite, partook of a dejeuner a la fourchette, with Major Davezac, our Charge d' Affaires here ; I left him at about 1, P. M., and took carriage with Mr. P., and drove over their clinker-made roads, the best in the world, through an exquisite country, passing the summer palaces of the court and nobility, for seven miles, to Kartwyck, on tho sea ; where the great sluices are constructed to feed all the canals of Holland. The works are splendid : the soil of the bank is kept together by a front of willow — chevaux de frize — the stones are brought from Norway ; and all the canals flow into this. Windmills are all over at work, to raise currents in the canals, driving the water out and in. DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 121 It is curious to see the level of the sea, some feet higher than the water of this great canal; nothing but these massive stone gates preserve Holland. This place is also a fishing ground, and summer resort, and very pleasant ; near by, are curious and antique salt works. The sea-water is pumped up into a long shallow trough, about forty feet high, one hundred feet long, and twelve feet wide ; with apertures, through which it filters down on a mass of willow twigs, upon which the salt incrusts and dries ; their bathing cars are curious ; they are high, and four wheeled, with nice rooms, etc. ; and in front, is a large and strong frame, covered with sail-cloth, and moveable, like a carriage top ; they let the carriage down into the water, and then bathe under its shelter; we came home about half-past 7, P. M. Some twenty horses passed the door, to market, tied together, head and tail ; they are here, a very dull, slow animal, with heavy, broad hoof, and lifting it very high, drawing heavy carriages, and make about six miles an hour. The whole city seems inundated with poor ; it is, like the rest of Europe, overstocked. The cattle of the country seem the most beau- tiful in the world, so admirably clean and neat, and well taken care of. They have a peculiar cow, called the sheet cow ; from the broad white color in the middle of the back : the rest of the body being totally black, and looking as if a sheet were thrown over them ; they yield often two gallons of milk daily. Saw the King yesterday, in the grounds of the palace, alighting from his horse, attended only by his 122 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. groom ; lie was in military costume, and too distant to see his features ; he has built fine barracks here, and keeps up his palaces in fine style. The army numbers twenty thou- sand ; every man here, is obliged to serve in the army, or find a substitute. 25th. — Called in the morning on Major Davezac, pp c : afterwards went with P. to Haarlem ; and heard the great organ play for an hour, most wonderfully : the imitation of a thunder shower was startlingly true ; and the grand tones of the march from Norma seemed like three or four of Costa's orchestras combined. The [church is curious enough, paved with grave stones ; with quaint brass chande- liers ; . curious ship's models, hanging from the ceiling ; and the Baptismal Chapel has many grotesque carvings ; it is built Cathedral-wise, with a quaint spire, and chimes. The square in which it stands, is lined about with the quaintest buildings ; the Stadthaus, Markthaus, etc. ; and here is a good statue of Coster, for whom they claim the invention of printing. After dinner, arriving too late at the station for the Rotterdam train waited over till the 9, P. M., train. In the interim, walked out into the beautifnl woods, or Park here : it is the Park of the Summer Palace, built by Louis Napoleon : small, and rich, like Chatsworth. This Park is full of green alleys, like an English rural paradise ; it is the continuation of the same beautiful Park, through which we drove to Kartwyck. It extends, in a belt of woodland, from Rotterdam to Amsterdam ; the best houses, DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 123 a la campagne, are on it, and, with their pretty Tea Pavil- ions, nothing can be finer. On either side, stretching away for miles, are these rich meadows — a prairie of full, fresh grain and grass, with those cattle. It is a perfect garden ; and a picture for Claude. The tulip season had passed, but the roses were out in great beauty. They have an immense octroi duty to all cities, by which they charge even thirty florins a cow. It is cheaper far to send the cattle to England. Meat was twenty-five cents a pound in the market here. The Lime, Linden, and Elm, are the principal trees ; Oaks are not frequent — perhaps the soil is too light for them. The Dutch take great care of their cattle ; you see a cow which has just calved, if in the field, protected by a sort of jacket of sail cloth. The calf is always raised by hand ; and ten miles travel a day, is thought enough for a horse ; they have an odd custom in sho- ing horses : a bolt protrudes, and a wooden bar passes over it, on which the hoof rests, tied up by a rope, while the head is haltered by a chain. Everywhere you see the Do- minee passing, with his cocked hat ; the Ansprecker, in simi- lar dress, but with many streamers of crape, announcing a death, and inviting to funerals ; and upon the door-knock- ers, you see a square of lace, prettily worked, looking like a cushion, announcing a birth in the house. If the cen- tre is worked with flowers, it is a girl. We walked through the picturesque and fortified gateway, here ; and from the bridge, the view along the ramparts down the pretty canals, 124 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. at the quaint gate towers, which are like the old London Tower, and at the beautiful town, embosomed in rich foli- age, with its quaint spires, and now and then, a whole street coming into view, looking old, buried, and sleeping, like an- other Pompeii ; was extremely fine. 26th. — Showery ; at home, writing letters, etc. Wrote to S. N. D. : took 6, P. M., train to Rotterdam. Spent the night here at the Bath Hotel. 27th. — At 7, A. M., started in the Netherland Steam Ship for Cologne, price, 7fl. TOc. ; a fine large boat. All the scenery below Cologne, is exceedingly dull and stupid. In fact, there are nothing but dead flats, and miserable vil- lages. The first night, at about 8, P. M., arrived at Ein- meric, a curious little village ; the Prussian frontier, where we passed the night. 28th. — Started this morning at half-past 5, P. M. ; sail- ed along through similar scenery, till about 8, P. M., when we arrived at Cologne. The tide, and the turns of the river, make the ascent very slow, lasting nearly four days : the descent is in one day. There were not many passen- gers ; but all of different nations and languages, and an odd set ; went to Hotel Royal. 29th. — Meeting the same English gentlemen, as at the Hague ; the brothers, Cooper, of Finchley, we sallied out sight-seeing, going first to St. Cunibert's, then to St. Ge- reons, St. Ursulas, and to the Cathedral, before dinner. Afterwards visited the Jesuit's Church ; the gallery of DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 125 modern pictures, and St. Mary's, in the Capitol. I took care to go to Farina's new store, and buy some genuine Eau de Cologne, and had full enough sights for one day ; wrote a note to P., enquiring about letters, etc., and retired early. 30th. — Took Dusseldorf Co's steamer, paying four tha- lers for a passage to Mayence. The river here, for the first time, grew interesting. The Seven Mountains soon ap- pear, covered with vines, and now and then a fine ruin on the top ; the scenery is beautiful ; the river winds so often, that you have new views continually. Passed the castled crag of Drachenfels, but the whole is not so fine as the scenery on our Hudson. Arrived at Coblentfo- at 12, P. M. ; stopped "2/ at Hotel du Geant. After dinner, drove out along the beau- tiful banks, for four miles to the Konigshill, and Stoltzenfels ; the first is nothing but a lofty stone, with a pretty view of the Laach, River and valley, and the latter, nobly situated on a lofty crag, is a modern summer-house of the King ; quite small, with some pretty things in bronzes, pictures, etc., and no way remarkable except for its views of the Rhine. As we arrived at the hotel, a funeral of a young girl, was passing the door. First came the Acolytes, swing- ing censers ; next a priest, bearing the white cross, and two priests following; all in white vestments. The coflfinwas of white, in papier mache, covered with garlands of orange flow- ers, borne by four young girls in black, and surrounded by about thirty girls in black, with veils, each bearing a. lighted candle, walking slowly on either side, and the men followed 126 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. behind : it was beautiful. In the evening went over the river to the Fortress of Ehrelbeitstien ; saw the sun set superbly,*and a panorama of scenery, like that of our West Point, formed by the Moselle, Laach, and Rhine. I can never forget it. All about me were groups of the Prussian soldiers, singing together in parts from the notes, their beautiful national, and military airs. Their new uniform, of the Roman helmet and short blue frock coats, looks well, and is somewhat classic. SIst. — Took steamer again at 8, A. M., and sailed on to Bieberich, arriving about 4, P. M. This was one of the finest sails I have ever had. The scenery now rose into grandeur ; the vine-clad mountains springing sheer from the water's edge, and by the continual winding of the river, locking it into a succession of lovely lakes. Here were many fine ruins ; the Rheinfels, Rheinstein, etc. ; the love- ly town of Oberwesel, with the old ruined Castle on the hill, and the quaint Castle just below in the middle of the river. We took the omnibus at Beberich, and drove over to the lovely valley of Wiesbaden, to the Hotel de la Rose. In the lovely evening, strolled through the Park, and grounds, and in the Kursaal, and retired early. Aug. 1st. — Sunday — Rose early, at 6 A. M. Was among the crowd who come from all parts of the city, cup in hand to the Kochbumnen. I tried the water, which is of hot sulphuretted hydrogen; and found it of course very unpleasant. Walked out of the town by the beautiful DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 127 Acacia-lined avenue called the Tannus Gasse, and crowd- ed like a Broadway. Returning, followed the fashion here, and took a bath ; which are built of stone handsomely, and are in every hotel. Went to the English church here ; quite crowded ; dined at the Kursaal ; about 200 present ; the music was fine, and a good dinner. It was an exceed- ingly warm day, and I contented myself to sit in the shade for hours, watching the happy multitude promenading about, and listening to the splendid band. Towards evening took carriage, and drove up to La Platte, the Duke's hunting seat, eighteen hundred feet above the Rhine, upon the sum- mit of the mountain opposite ; a neat and beautiful house, with a view of about forty miles in circuit. The sun had just set when I arrived, but its dying glories of pearl and ruby tints were over Mayence, Wiesbaden, and Coblentz, and the winding river. There is a suite of apartments here entirely, and beautifully furnished with furniture made of horns of the stags of the Duke's herd of one thousand in the woods around it. Returned about 10, P.M., and re- tired. 2nd. — Took the 8 A.M. rails to Frankfort; arrived at 10, P.M., at Hotel de Russie. Spent a charming hour at the Musee ; where are Lessings Huss, and Ezzelin, the bas reliefs, Steinle's distemper paintings, some Flemish pictures, and superb ceilings. Saw the Ariadne and the Goethe. It be- came so excessively warm as to render it impossible to move out. At 6, P. M., took the Taunus grand Ducal 128 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. Baden rails to Heidelberg, arriving at 9, P.M. ; fare 2 fl. 33. It goes through the land of Romance : on the left run the mountains, every peak crowned with a castle, now but ivy-clad ruins; and on your right spreads an immense plain in the richest culture. It is harvest time ; and the women are busy reaping and loading the wains. The har- vest is full. The fruit trees are so heavy as to require to be propped, and nothing can look finer than the 'grasses^: there are no fences, and no field division. Drove to Hotel de Hollande : retired early : at Frankfort met G. S. H. from Boston. 3d. — Arrived at Heidelberg in the evening, and this morning, taking an early breakfast, with an appetite sharp- ened by the keen mountain air, walked up the hill to the Castle, arriving there about 9, A. M., and staid till 2 ; dining at the Restauration, in the Schloss Garten. One good picture will describe this superb ruin better than lan- guage. • The best view is from the corner of the garden, on the Neckar side, where I sat for an hour or more, looking at the octagon Tower, and the front terrace, with the lofty mountains behind, and the curious town at its foot ; the Gesprengte Thurm, and the beautiful river, now very shal- low ; (in eighteen hundred and forty-five it was thirty feet higher), and the opposite mountains. Coming down, passed the plain buildings of the University. Some students were loitering about, but the term was over : took the train at 4 30, P. M., to Baden-Baden : arriving about 8, P. M., at DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 129 Badnischer Hof, passed through delightful scenery, like that of yesterday to Oos the Junction, and then to the deep val- ley of Baden-Baden ; went out to the Conversation Haus ; a most superb building. Its grand colonnade was crowded with the gay of all nations. Its saloon richly frescoed and about two hundred feet long with magnificent chandeliers ; here thousands in full dress were walking ; the most splendid galaxy I have ever seen. Of course at one end were the gambling tables, and there sat superb and handsome ladies, with the deepest anxiety on their faces. One can never for- get this scene ; and the view of that rich salon a jouer from without was superb. Attached to this building are cafes, restaurants &c, like Wiesbaden, but of course far grand- er. On the right, the theatre, near the Trinkhalle, built in similar style, and the Ursprung. Returned to my lodgings about eleven P. M. 4th. — Took the 7 15 train to Strasbourg ; arriving about ten P. M., and at Kehl about nine. Breakfasted and took the 11 30 train to Basle, passing by the Vosges mountains, all the way and arrived about 4 30, at the Hotel des Trois Rois ; passed the evening with Mr. Conti, our Consul here, in their garden very pleasantly. 5th. — Went over the old church here ; very ancient and curious, with its rare stone carved pulpit ; and then through the Holbein gallery. He seems to have been a Rubens and a Raphael combined. The series of his paintings of the Sacred History, from the Temptation in the Garden to the Cruci- 130 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. fixion, and the Dance of Death are here, and also portraits of himself, of Luther, and Erasmus. How bright their colors are ! How beautiful their drawings ! Went into the room where sat the great council of Basle. The old chests for their Acta and their old beds are still there, of the era of 1450, and still unaltered. Took the diligence at two and a half P. M. for Neuchatel. All the way, we drove through the Minister Thai, a famed mountain pass. Continual precipices beckoned over us, many hundred feet high with fierce mountain torrents, and everywhere the winding road seems locked in by impenetrable mountains. Rode all night. 7th. — About nine A.M. arrived at Neuchatel and stopped at Hotel des Alps. Called on Mr. B. at his fine mansion house here. Received many letters from S. W. D., R., D., B., F., C. andD. ; and all were answered by the ninth inst. ; and also at the same time wrote to Mr. M. Spent the rest of the day in writing and reading letters. 6th. — Rainy ; letter writing, &c. 8th. — Fine Sunday. After dinner, Brustlein, Beguin and I went up the mountain of Chaumont on foot, a walk of five miles, very severe work, but the view up there, and down through this valley and on the other side is magnificent. Three Lakes, Neuchatel, Brienz, and Morat with their towns and villages, and the far off Alps, the Jungfrau, Mont Blanc and the whole range of the Bernese Oberland.. , 9th. — Very much fatigued ; to day it is rainy, staid at home, letters &c. ; among others wrote enclosing introduc- DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 131 tion to G. G. Fendler and Co., at Nuremberg, saying I would be tliere, between the tenth and fifteenth of December, and asking them to receive my letters ; also, likewise enclosed in- troduction to Mr. Donelson, envoy at Berlin, saying I would be tliere shortly after the 15th of September, and ask- ing him to keep my letters, also, likewise to Mr. Stiles, our Charge at Vienna, saying I expect to be there, about the first of October, and to keep letters enclosing introductions. 10th. — Morning, letter writing as usual. Dined with party at Mr. Brustlein's, and rode up Chaumont again. 11th. Unwell ; at home, letter writing. 12th. — Morning, enclosed pictures and memoranda, by the hand of Mr. Kue$ghi, to be delivered to A. in London, to be forwarded home ; also a letter to do ; also a letter to Tupper to be posted. In the afternoon took a fine drive with Mr. Beguin; returned about nine P. M., fatigued and retired early. Aug. 13th. All day letter writing. Supped and spent the evening with Mr. Brustlein. 14th. — Busy in the morning packing. Mr. Kuenghi left to-day, taking our letters with him and also the bundle for R. Dined with Mr. Brustlein ; at 5 P. M. took the dil- / igence which stopped here for me. and sitting in the couple Q> enjoyed a fine ride in beautiful weather through smiling har- vest fields, and fine scenery, and arrived at Fribourg at Zah- ringen Hof about 10 P. M. 15th. — After walking about this curious mountain-built 132 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. city, went in the St. Nicholas Church and stayed through the sendee. As I entered, a priest in animated language was preaching an incendiary Catholic appeal in German — this is the prevailing language here. When he ceased, the organ began with a fine choir, and discoursed most superb music. Although not played for exhibition, it showed greater power and sweetness than the organ at Haarlem. The church is large but tawdry. After service walked over the stupendous wire bridges. To-day was the "fete a la Vierge," and the military were gathering as I got into the diligence, at 3 P. M., for Vevay, to join the procession. This place is the Jesuit stronghold ; filled with convents and priests every- where. The Landwehr or militia, and other volunteers para- ded past us. They are now organizing on account of the apprehended war. Seven Catholic cantons are arrayed against the sixteen Protestant cantons. A heavy rain came on, and no doubt interfered with the day's gala. Rode through superb mountain scenery ; passing through Bulle, arrived at Vevay, at the Hotel des Trois Couronnes, at eleven P. M. 16th. — Took a carriage early, and drove through Clarcus which Byron has named " the birth-place of sweet love," and Montreux ; passing the Bosquet de Julie to Chillon ; I saw everything there ; it is a prison yet ; six state prisonsers are there now, and an arsenal. Came back on an exceeding warm day, and went to church St. Martin ; plain enough, but here are the tombs of the exiled English patriots Lud- DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 133 low and Broughton ; what a pity that they have put hum- drum epitaphs on them ! After dinner took the Helvetic steamer and enjoyed a very warm afternoon sail through fine scenery upon lake Leman to Geneva ; arrived about seven P. M. ; stopped at Hotel des Bergues. 17th. — After a sleepless night through the excessive heat walked about the city, which is really beautiful, from its situ- ation. It is a little Paris, and these three bridges, and little island, and the swift blue waters of the river Rhone, dashing through and around. After dinner having previously left my name and Zurich address at the post office, L'Ecu, and des Bergues, and at the English News Room, walked out beyond the ramparts, to the junction of the Arve and the Rhone. It is a lovely picture, and I enjoyed it with some intelligent English barristers. It grew too warm to stay here with comfort, so took coupe in the diligence for Chamouni. 18th. — Six A. M. Very fine, though warm ; started for Chamouni and Mount Blanc, sending on my trunk, to Mar- tigny. It was a grand ride ; an Alpine pass throughout , but the best scenery is beyond Sallenches, with its torrents and precipices. Walked a good deal of the way. Arrived at Chamouni about seven and a half P. M. ; the house was very full ; lodged at the Nouvelle Couronne — a very nice house. 19th. — Started about 10 A. M. for Mountanvert upon a mule and arrived in about two hours. Walked out a long way upon the Mer de Glace. It is indeed a novel and sub- 134 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. lime sight, but you must scramble to the Jardin, before you see its whole extent of thirty miles. After dinner ■went to the Cascade des Peleriijls ; rather small, a mere fountain, but threatening to become a mighty torrent. The exquisite sun- set and moonlight delightfully tinged the snows. 20th. With my mule, La Marquise, again ascended La Flegere. From here I enjoyed the grandest view, and the only good one you can have here, of the peaks and vastness of Mont Blanc. The road is very bad and precipitous. Came home much fatigued ; weather not so fine as the nine- teenth. 21st. — Started early for Martigny, over the pass of La A Tete Noire. This is the grandest thing yet ; the view from La Couronne, and the hill above the Rhone Valley, the Sim- plon Road and St. Bernard are magnificent ; made the jour- ney in seven and a half hours. Drove to Hotel de la Poste. 22d. — Sunday. Spent the day very quietly in my room ; rainy ; with the exception of a short drive out to a beautiful mountain torrent on the Simplon. Sent my trunk on to Inter - lachen. 23d. — Took diligence supplement ; a fine carriage at about nine and a half A. M. and drove to Leukbourg. Arrived about eight P. M. ; it is a miserable village, but obtained tolerable chambers at the Hotel Stern. 24th. — Mounted a horse early over the mountains to Leukbad ; arriving about ten A. M., through a wild moun- tain pass. Here are several good hotels and a squalid village DIARA OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 135 some 5000 feet up the mountain of the Gemmi. The glaciers and peaks are all around us. The day was very foggy and wet. After dejeuner a la fourchette spent some three or four hours, looking at the people soaking in the bath. The water about 124 deg. Fahrenheit. Men and women together lay and flounder about here for six hours a day ; on floating ta- bles take coffee and play draughts, throw water at each other, skim plates, ; some lie the whole time up to their necks, quietly smoking their cigars, &c. ; three weeks is called the time of a cure ; the price is fifteen francs. There are seve- ral baths of different depths, and a great many rules ; and all are obliged to wear long dresses. It was a funny scene, and of rather questionable morality. There were in all about a dozen in. Two old grey nuns, a handsome young Italian girl, and the rest were French and Germans. The season is closing ; a fortnight since, there were eighty persons bathing here. Stopped at the Hotel des Alpes, which communicated by a covered gallery with the bath-house. 24th. — Started about 7 A. M. ; a horse carrying my sac de nuit, for the Gemmi pass. Mr. P. from Manchester with me ; very foggy and cold ; the journey is severe ; full of ter- rific ascents and precipices, over the ice and snow, and among the glaciers ; a singular lake at the top. Walked nearly the whole way; this is the worst pass here. The road winds around upon the narrow slippery brink of vast abysses. The wea- ther was too bad to enjoy much prospect. At the top it was quite clear, whilst the clouds below were raining upon 136 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. Leukbad. Got to Kandersteg, about two and half P. M. ; in six hours walking. Hired a carriage there, and drove on to Frutigen, where we dined capitally in six courses for only two and a half francs ! and arrived at Interlachen, at the Hotel Belvidere, about nine P. M., after a hard day's work ; very bad weather. 26th. — After breakfast received my trunk which had just arrived from Martigny : wrote up journal in the morning. Afternoon drove over to Lauterbrunnen ; bad weather, but the valley and the cascades were beautiful ; dined at the Hotel_du Capricorne, capitally ; evening at home : rainy. 27th. — Rain pouring in torrents ; Mr. P. left early for Berne. In my room writing letters ; wrote to S., to N. D. and mailed at Zurich. 28th. — Weather better ; though still doubtful. At eleven A. M., took the little steamer to Brienz in about one and a half hours ; took porters and guide, and ascended the Brun- igh on foot ; the pass not very high, say about 4000 feet, and a good three hours' walk. The views as you ascend are fine ; I can never forget that of the vale of Meyringen, with Lac Brienz in the distance, its Alpine torrents and its mountain walls ; it realised Milton's image of Eden. On the summit met Mr. S. on horseback, coming from Lun- gcrn, where I soon after arrived, then in a carriage drove by the lakes of Lungern and Sarnem, with superb views of the Wetterhorn and Faulhorn. Arrived at Alpnach and lake DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 137 Lucern, about eight and a half P. M. in a heavy rain ; quar- tered at the little inn Cheval Blanc very comfortably. 29th. — At five and a half A. M., got into a small boat with three rowers for Lucerne where we arrived at eight A. M. Weather became fine again ; this sail is one of the finest I have ever had ; the pull was first up Alpnacii Bay and un- /X^/ der old Pilatus, then rounding an old tower, shot out into the broad expanse of the lake guarded on the right by the Righi which is the portal to the other arm of the lake, leading to Altorf ; turning many little rocky capes, each with its shrine, till at last Luzerne, with its quaint towers and neat white houses came in view. I had a row of twelve miles and "good work. The mists were clearing away, and the early morning tints were upon the landscape. On [landing, took my seat in the diligence to Zurich, leaving at jnine A. M. Breakfasted at the Schweizer Hof and crossed the Pic- ture Bridge here, filled with the quaintly dressed peasants go- ing to mass ; took seat in the diligence, and rode over a richly cultivated country, passing near by the town, a fresh breast- work, yetjjbnfinished, stopping at Zug to dine, and arrived at Zurich, about four and a half P. M. What a lovely view there is from the hills above the city. Took a little stroll about the lovely lake-side, to watch the fairy steamers and chaloupes, each bearing the canton color of the white cross on a red ground. Tea and journalized. 30th. — Called at Mr. Muralts, Bureau de Bauquier. He was at his country house ; found there only a letter from j38 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. D., Aug. 13th, and one from B. 18th inst, and spent the rest of the day letter writing ; wrote to B. 31st. — Morning, still letter writing. Evening as last eve, at the Reading Room here, of the Museum, Muralt having sent me an order of admission, and took a row, out on Zurich's sweet waters. Sep. 1st. — Rec'd letter from:B. ; and with dates forward on route to Vienna. Fine day ; enjoyed a beautiful walk be- fore dinner, calling upon Mr. Bodmer, and after dinner had another exquisite row upon the Lake at Sunset ; from the Hohe Promenade ; to-day, had a superb view of the Alps. Mont Blanc's snowy head was entirely uncovered. To-mor- row for Schafihausen. Sep. 2. — At 6 A. M., got in the Diligence for Schafihau- sen ; rather a pleasant drive, through a rich country, talking German with some Harlaem Ladies, on the way, arrived about 11 ; Drove to Hotel Webber in front of the Rheinfall. It is a pretty cascade broken by rocks, but the finest thing is the Landscape along and down the river. After dinner, called and left introduction and card for Sealsfield : he was then out of town, walked about the curious old place. In the evening received a note from Sealsfield : concluded to stay to- morrow. 3d. After breakfast, Mr. Sealsfield came to see me, and we spent the day together. He is a tall man, square-built, heavy, German looking, and aquiline features, spectacles, and speaks in broken English : took me down the town to his DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 139 rooms. He told me his history. Born in Lousiana forty- eight years ago, his mother was German : when a young man he came toNew York : wrote for the Courier des Etats Unis for some time, then was engaged on the Courier and Enquirer, and about 1826 wrote his first book, a Romance called Tokay, or the White Rose. It was published by Carey's in Phila., but Cooper being then in the zenith, and Carey's also his pub- lishers, this book, which was an imitation of Cooper's style, was not succsssful ; about 1830, he came to Europe, and af- ter travelling in England, and on the Continent, settled for the winter in Baden, (Switz'd.) He could not then speak German, but had a valet who could, and there by his help, translated Tokay into German, wrote two new volumes, ma- king in all 3 volumes in two months, and offered it to Fuscli, in Zurich. They at first gave him 1500 Fr. conditioned to be paid three'months after publication ; and forfeit if not ori - ginal. The book succeeded. He has gone on writing, but up to a few years past, anonymously, being called here the Great Unknown ; he has written thus far, twenty-four Vols. ; his compensation has gone on increasing, till he receives 15 Louis d'ors a mss. sheet, and he has made altogether up to this time, near $30,000 by his works. His investments, like his sympathies, are in the U. S., and he is anxious to go there, but his terms with his publishers, are for annual payments in seven years to come, and his living here is very cheap, but $200 per annum, and that very comfortably, being received into the best circles. We dined together capitally ; walked 140 DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. about the Town, and spent the evening at a Club of the No- bles and Bankers here, superb house ; where all drank tea and played Boston. We parted about 9 P. M., presenting me with his Cabin Book, &c., and offering to correspond, Per- sonally although a self made man, from his oblivion of Eng- lish he is not remarkably interesting Jbut his history and kind ^ manners were attractive. Received Letter from Tupper 26 Aug., and also two from Brustlein, and introduction at Munich from Bodmer. 4th. Started at T A. M., on board the little steamer. — Weather rainy and cold, for Lindau. The scenery was not of interest. Got to Constance about 1 P. M. Slow work. The town is curious and prettily situated, on its Lakes, pass- ed the trees where John Huss was executed upon the shore ; took another steamer here, down the Lake, very slow work and delay. of three hours at Rorschach, waiting for the post; then arrived at Lindau about 7 P. M. Raining hard at 10 P. M, got in Malle Poste for Kaufbeuren in Bavaria. — 5th. Sunday. — Rode all last night, and in same weather ; had little or no sleep ; in an uncomfortable carriage ; about 1 P. M., Arrived at Kaufbeuren, a small village, the pres- ent terminus of the Rails here ; 3 P. M., got in the cars for Augsburgh ; very handsome carriages, but slow ; they burn peat for their engines, and arrived at about 6 P. M., at a superb Station ; then in half an hour off again for Munich ; weather cleared up and we arrived about 8 1-2 P. M., at the Baierischer Hof, very much fatigued with 36 hours' slow and constant travel. DIARY OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. 141 6th. — Rose late, and wrote letters. Afternoon, spent two or more delightful hours in those Treasures of Art, the two Palaces ; passing rapidly with the crowd from room to room, each of different subjects, divine frescoes, tessellations, &c, of unequalled excellence ; it is impossible to discriminate. But the Queen's Apartment, and the frescoes from Schiller, Goethe, and Burger, and the Niebelungen Lied were the most delightful. 7th. — Raining hard ; but with Dr. Wollaston, of London, started off sight-seeing, and first went to the Glyphothek. Can any one describe in a journal, one thousand perfect sta- tues and freizes, in Halls rivalling Grecian or Roman Art, of tesselated marbles 1 a perfect modern miracle. One might sit down for months before any of these breathing antiques. Then to the Pinakothek ; here are one thousand and more of the masters arranged in order of Schools and ages, in the most superb building, and Galleries frescoed, and moulded, that have ever been since the days of Augustus. I could on- ly have three hours to see them in ; but those which live strongest in my memory, are Ruben's Last Judgment, small and large, Tobias, and the Departing Angel ; Murillo's four pictures, the Series of Christ's Life in a Cabinet, and the Carlo Dolcis. Next went to the Basilico of St. Boniface ; not yet quite finished, and through its wonderful crypt. Its divine frescoes of the Saint's Life and the Missions in Germa- ny, the Altar Piece, the Gilding and the Renaissance work upon the marbles, and the beautiful Mosaic Pavement of Ba- 142 DIARY OP A TOUR IN EUROPE. varian marbles, all in Byzantine style ; well be it said that the world has no equal. The University next ; a superb marble building with a grand stair case ; went into the great Hall with its frescoes, the emperor's statue, and the smaller Hall, and throughout the building ; then to the Ludwigs Kirche, after the style of St. Bonifacius, but^much unequal, though exquisitely beautiful ; then to Kaulbach, the Court Painter's Studio, and gazed long and delightedly on the "Destruction of Jerusalem," painted for the King at the price of $12,000, for the new Pinakothek of Modern art now bein*sM$kS ^s*mk°* / \* V V* %.^ - ^ \ ^v .0* o, V ** % a^ 6 «"^ . <> *'...* ^ y >, * ^e. • >* ... ^ * ^ ,0* »•*!£. V ^ ^r ; ,* V «V : . t!a A"* *• ***** «.? °^> ©VJjILXf* av *>v • •^o" c° , * N ■ <* ^ > v > **v: ^.