V ) LETTERS EAST A. PERCY BROWN LETTERS EAST A. PERCY BROWN . • • • • MERCED, CALIF'ORN'TA THE 'sun" PRESS THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. Two Copies Receiver JUN 24 1903 Copyright Entry CUSS CL XXc. No o d ^ L ^ \ ^ _COPY B. I Copyright 1903 Hy ACLKX PERCY BROWN^. DEDICATION. To Her Who is the ''boys best friend," and To Him For whom, with ever}^ man, the best appreciation ever increases with the ripening of the years. » INTRODUCTION It has often been the bur- den and is ever the gracious- ness of one's own people to bear with shortcomings too grievous for others; in thi< case, the task of the follow- ing pages might be more than could be borne, were it not for the mythical char- acter of those who endure. CONTENTS. Letters to : Uncle Fred and Aunt Nellie - i Aunt Alice and Uncle William - 14 Cousin Edith - - 32 Beatrice . . . ^g Looking From A Graiv2Lry. Home, Feb. i, 1903. My dear Uncle Fred and iVunt Nellie : I have written you so often it is hard to tell when I last wrote; it was, at least, a year ago, was it not? You see, since Aunt Kit came to California, it has taken me all the time to look after my extensive 2 household affairs; it has taken her very much of the time, also; therefore, it would seem that house- keeping has not been mis- represented by bacuelors, as to its capacious places for hiding innumerable spare hours, half days, peri- odical moments — otherwise devoted to rest and leisure — with every now and then a whole diiy deliberately and consciencelessly taken, in the interests of some long neglected trifle, a needy petty convenience or two, or a real but inoppor- tune illustration of some of life's inalienable rights. Briefly, this must be why I have found so much time to write. We are having the win- 3 ter rains; they usually court the good will of the farm- ers, every now and then, from November to April. The rains are the barom- eter of California hopes and prosperity; which is one of the few things wherein ever}^ other place I know of is so much like California. It is particularly muddy here, sometimes, during a part of the Eastern sleigh- ing season. When the sun shines for a time, however, the mud spares no effort to get out of sight quickly. The sun in this climate acts on the face of the earth like a thirsty sponge on a cup of water. When the water is no more, for seven months, the cup gets dry and dryer, and 4 soon be^^ins to crack and warp, is rapidly and repeat- edly covered with dust, and, to the inexperienced eye, appears, certain!}^, to have no glad future; but it is re- vived by the heav}^ dews, nightly, so, when the sum- mer has passed, and trees that have the habits of the East have shed their bright patches of Autumn color, the dry cup is filled by the early November rains, and Nature soon enters upon her Thanksgiving of gentle showers, with the brightest and clearest of greens One's heart turns to thank- fulness in a beautiful valley where the mountains seem but a few miles away, ajid the sea, too, is not far. Those beautiful bine masses 5 of form and color, spotted, here and there, with snow, are unspeakably^ fascinating. Today, it seems as though the whole range were man}^ miles awa}' — fort3% and as many more; tomorrow, the soft blue and patches of white will seem scarcely beyond a neighbor's place. The sun before rising lends the lower ranges enough light for the deepest of marine blues. Such a blue as one struggles to make forever one's own, to take into one's innermost depths of lasting realization. And this deep dawn color, so solid, so real, has, between 'it and you, low banks and marshes of mist, silenil}^ and softly changing outline, as the sun draws near and 6 over the horizon, and, finally melting away in the begin- ning of the day. One leaves one's window reluct- antly, for, after breakfast, all will be gone; and the day, that will have come, will be going on — like all other days — beautiful, but with its morning passed — morning in the charm of its clear, brief hour without a sun. i\nd this bothers one so, too, to tell which is the more charming, the swiftly passing part of an hour, just before sunrise, or the one juSt after. '1 he mountains ought to be ex- cused fr.-m any blame in this matter; for the same difBculty awaits one in the quiet valley of the Platte, where the river has 3^et 7 some four score of miles and more to run before it meets the ochre stream that comes down from the great, roomy Northwest. Or, if one stand on an elevation, a little back from the shore, on old Cape Cod, Nantuck- et side, the difficulty is here. Even if one give way to one of the real temptations of life, and roll away to the Southland, where the air is so soft, the moonlight so mellow, and the roses, opening liberally, are an enchantment of color in the heaviest of morning dew, the question is not evaded, perhaps — perhaps, because the hour after sunrise, in the Southland, is, certainly, a spell of delight. But the day that has be- 8 gun goes on; and, it is well, for would it not be a most unwelcome task to go about one's work in a day that were like either the half hour before sunrise, or, the one after. How could one set about material things in a day of such charms. It has been said that there are not many pretty drives about a town which lies in the center of this ap-ricul- tural portion of the Valley; and it is not meet for one who is not native to a place, by many summers, to dis- pute the serious word of those who have watched the sun set over the Coast Range for many years. Nevertheless, one is con- strained to be true to one's self, even if others have 9 the weight of conventional authority on their side. It is better to b^ true to one's own conscientious miscon- ceptions, and, thereby, come, perhaps, to the truth, surely, though tardily, than to take the word of one's neighbor, whose experience helps him to know, but does not necessarily bring con- viction to another. There- fore, one must be excused for thinking that there are, at least in one season, several beautiful driveways or roads in this particular section of equable territory, and, many pleasing features within a step of the carriage and out under the horizon. It is true that there maybe more of the latter. There is an old chip off the block of 10 wisdom of some ancient, about distance and enchant- ment; it may not apply here; though, often, one is inclined to think that it does; but it is so hard to be certain about things, any- where, anyway, and in California, partis ularly, where there are so many almost perfectly developed mirages. The mirage, by the way, in California, is not a creature of the far distant horizon, on partic- ularly favorable days. It is a much bolder illusion, yet, truly Western in its habits, appearing at almost any time, during the Spring or Summer, whilmg away the hazy hours of the live- 11 long day in making * stretches of burnt prairie out of a recently ploughed field, putting in a slough or pond, here and there, around which the fire has run, and leaving the smoul- dering ridges and tufts of still smoking grass scat- tered over the blackened waste, just as one sees it on a rolling middle West- ern prairie, when the racing head flame has passed over the crest of the hill, and the ashes are still so warm as to make one's hardy In- dian pony refuse to travel * One day, in the month of May or June. I was driving along under a burning sky, although not an unpleasant one, when I saw, in the near distance, over an area of great extent, what appeared to be the smouldering track of a prairie fire. The flames appeared to have ju^t passed over the ground, skipping little spots, now and then; in some places there seemed to be distinct little marshes or lagoons, which the fire, of course, had 12 across the slope that, a few minutes before, was a field of waving brown and pur- ple. When the mirage is not occupied with this sort of amusement it may be en- gaged in deluging a ranch- er's building premises, leav- ing just room for the larger structures to stand out of water, with an appearance of good approaches to the hay or straw stacks by the Venetian method. Though the length and quality of this letter be an affliction. Uncle Fred and Aunt Nellie, the perpetrat- to gro around; and here and there, a few buildingrs loomed up hazily, out of the smoke rift and brown marsh lands. Knowing that I was in a country where Nature spares no pains to be remarkably deceptive. I was considera- bly interested to see how consciously and forcibly I was compelled to bring befo»"e my attention the fact that this was only a California mirage, in one of her great valleys, during the dry season. 13 or still has the temerity to wish to remain, Affectionately your Nephew. It was not unti] I had driven almost along-side the border lines of this mirage, that the true conditions revealed them- selves plainly. A freshly plowed field was the background for the burnt prai- rie surface; variation in the contour of the lan-l, some large buildings, and the atmospheric conditions did the rest. 1 presume that one thing that caused this picture to be remarkably real was that the soaoking track of a prairie fire, es- pecially if seen under circumstances of more or less excitement, as such tires were to be seen over the broad prairies of the Middle West, a generation ago. leaves an impression that is not soon ef- faced from the mind. At any rate, this water and smoke deception does not call upon the imagination to fill out^hepicture in anyway. If one recall the perfect sum- mer days on the South Shore of Massa- chusetts, opposite Martha's Vine>ard, with the line of tall-masted schooners drifting lazily along, far out in the chan- nel, under the horizon, it is a pleasant reminder of these fading Eastern mem- ories to see, on the outskirts of the conti- nent, this fine water deception of the California mirage. 14 PIoME, May 6, 1903. My dear Aunt Alice and Uncle William: Once in a while one goes driving; some people go oftener. One of the most pleasing things about the country drives of Califor- nia is that the tree trunks are so richly covered with lichens, owing, partly, I suppose, to the large amount of moisture in the atmos- phere, for so many months in the year. This growth is very rich in strong browns, yellows, grays, and the softer tints of light 15 blue. For a time, I believe, these small plant folk were not considered to belong to the true Lichen family; ' but, if I am not mistaken, one of the most recent of the German authorities places the beautiful para- sites among the true Lichens. One cannot help feeling, in driving over the hills of New England, or across the fertile fields of the Middle West, that nature has a great variatioa in her cap- acity for presenting a di- versity of scene. A New England or Middle West- ern winter is certainly a (' very different picture from a mid-summer scene in the same locality. I suppose that it has been a common 16 amusement for the youth of many lands, on scorching harvest days, to try and picture to themselves a win- ter day, from the memories ^ of the past season, behind the real summer scene, as it were, with its intensely hot sun and sweltering at- mosphere. In some places it would seem that the im- agination might need to be quite strong and persistent ^ to get any clear impression of a rigorous winter day and a hot mid-summer day, in the same half hour. In California, however, the task may be easier than elsewhere. The residents say that the seasons are so ^ badly mixed that they do not know themselves apart, anyway; it is really true 17 that the characteristics, re- spectively, of winter and summer are so different from what they are in other climates that Nature is giv- en the appearance of having got in a hurry, or hav- ing become a trifle careless or indifferent as to her cli- matic distinctions, For in- stance, it takes a very hard frost, and a protracted one, to lay the little violets low; as for the grass, through the cold mid -winter nights, hard frosts seem to have very little effect upon it. Undoubtedly, the thousands of cattle that graze in the luxuriant valleys sometimes feel ver\' chilly, especially during the raiu}- season; but their backs are not cov- ered with snow, or icicles 18 do not hang from their sides, for days at a time, which, often, is a part of the winter decoration of their less fortunate fellow crea- tures of the Middle West. It is human nature to come to think that the change of the seasons is a part cf the very fabric of creation; and humanit}^ is very much a servant of habit; thus, at first, it is not a little incident, in one's observation, to see, during the winter months, hun- dreds and thousands of acres of waving grass, dot- ted, sometimes, very per- ceptibly with the well satis- fied herds. The contrast of this can be easily realized, if, on an August day, one goes into r; 19 the open, and sees stretch- ing about him, almost like a sea, the heat waves of a temperature that is run- ning from Too^ to 115^, Fahrenheit, or higher, un- der a cloudless sk}^ The grass is a light brown; the horizon is an unbroken bank of haze; the grazing herds stand motionless, and ap- pear, through the oven-like atmosphere, like phantom creatures, abiding their hour. I was driving with an old, patriarchal resident one da}-, who, in speaking of the wonderful power which this kind of an at- mosphere has for giving the effects of mirage, said, that, in the pioneer da3S, a man on a horse, well off under the horizon, would appear 20 very much like a ship in the distance. As to atmospheric eftcQts, it is interesting to compare various Southern and semi- tropical climates. For in- stance, the balmy air and lazy days of Southern Ten- nessee have a peculiar charm not easily forgotten; the mornings are so fresh and soft, the roses are lad- en so heavily with dew, the sun rises over the moun- tains so deliberately and genially, that the tempta- tion to simply sit down and be happy is well nigh irre- sistible. Mr. — , a gen- tleman who was in business in the South for some time, and whose home was in one of the most historic of spots, had a charming wife, whose 21 attitude on the question of climate and industrj^ always seemed to me particularly logical. ''When I was in / the North," said she, "I was not laz}^ and I tried to avoid being so here; but I have given up the fight, and now I enjoy be- ing lazy, and feel in perfect harmony with my environ- \ ment; so I am going to be ' satisfied, and I do not want to go back North; for, then, I should want to get over being lazy." It seems to me that some of the resi- dents of the delightful South have, to a great extent, reached exactly this ' condition. You cannot make much money, as a young man once told me, but it is a good place to en- 22 joy life, and simpl}' be happy with things as they are. This may not be thoroughly American; but, I dare say, it is, in a way, quite accurately Southern, and America is not meas- ured in one direction only. The cotton growers and manufacturers of the South have to contend, we know, with certain conditions of labor, which the white man, as yet, has not met ver}- successfully. And, one of the most inconvenient char- acteristics of these con- ditions probably is, that the energy of the North, on finding itself in this South- ern climate, refuses to con- tinue, without great en- couragement, its habitual exertions. Therefore, 23 some may reasonably be a little slow to think of mak- ing a home in a climate where indnstry, of the Northern t^^pe, is always threatening, with the best of people, to strike. It is not very easy to realize, that, in the State of California, there are a num- ber of private estates, the size of some of which is greater than the combined areas of a number of the Atlantic States. The owners of these wide areas are gen- erally engaged in the cattle raising business, in connec- tion with general agricul- tural interests; particularly such farming as would naturally be required, to conduct, profitably, large stock ranches. The capital 24 invested in some of these great plants is not always American. It would be in- teresting to know whether, on the whole, the great ranches are paying a good dividend, either actually, or such, in comparison wath the smaller general farms and fruit places. One cannot but feel that the time will come, none too soon, when the wheat ranchers, as they are now known, will become opera- tors, or owners, of smaller general farms. These men who now raise wUeat on farms, or ranches, as they are called here, ranging from several hundred to several thousand acres in size, seem to be losing, quite uniformly, large 25 aiiioLiiits of money. As one recently told me, who is operating 5000 acres, "This is a gambling business; it is simply a matter of gambling on the weather." "I know," he continued, "that this is all there is to it, but it seems to be necessary." And, moreover, said he, the harder the times, and the more exacting the owners are in their terms, the more land one must operate in order to make expenses and something more; because, one can only make so much on a bushel of w^heat, and to make more money one must have more bushels, which tan be raised with the same number of nlule teams and the same num- ber of men, working harder, 26 or with iiearh' the same equipment. The laud that we were riding over, dur- ing this conversation, is an excellent fruit soil; the gen- tlemaii himself said that it would some day be divided into little fruit farms, de- voted to peach culture. About the first thing that one is inclined to think of, with reference to California, is that nature seems to have been very chary of her rain fall. The people of South- ern California would give almost anything, I imagine, if they could be quite sure of a generous number of rainy da^^s. The ranchers of the wheat growing re- gions would, probabl3^, not be able to farm the thous- ands of acres that they 21\ handle now so easil}-, if there were as nmch rain fall as the East and Middle West are acquainted with. It seems to be one of the uniformities of nature that her compensations are just and certain. Owing to the fact that the climate is so dry in these wheat giowiiig areas, the combined har- vester takes the gram off One of these highly useful machires cuts, thrashes and sacks the grain as it goes over the field, drawn by about thirty mules or horses. One man with one "jerk line" or, possibly, with two lines for greater safet>. drives the long column that furnishes the motive power, another good man, by the exercise of great agility, sews the sacks as they are rapidly filled, and a third looks after the running of the machine. One of these modern cradles can cut in the neitjhbo/"- hood of forty acres, in a day of twelve hours. A single "swath/ is eighteen feet wide, the number of sacks piled on the stubble, about four hundred, and the bushels of wheat ready for market, one thousand. For the machine that makes these things possible, the rancher, or one of his neighbors, pays $1,650. Audit seems to be worth wh'le, either to own or to hire one. The broad tire ex- panse of the gigantic maiu wheel is 28 the stalk, and leaves it in piles of sacks, regularl}- dis- tributed over the stub- ble field, ready for the mule teams and great wagons. The Eastern far- mer could do nothing of the sort. His grain is not fit to thrash when it is on the stalk, and he could not thrash it to advantage, if he wanted to; although, if he lets it stand too long it shells out. Therefore, he goes through several oper- ations, at the cost of much time ] and labor, arriving, some weeks or months later, at the same end as the California r a n c h e r. It would, therefore, be sur- equipped, in later years, with teeth so long that, when the powerful breaks are set. even thirty excited mules would be wasting their time in trying to run awaj". 29 prising if he were to attempt to cultivate any such num- ber of acres, as is possible where twelve mule plows, , following one another in numbers, plowing the land and planting the grain at the same time, leave noth- ing further to be done un- til the following summer, when the combined har- . vester, with the mule teams 'and wagons, put the crop in the warehouse and aboard the cars in a trict . Speaking of mule teams, it might be interesting to an Eastern farmer to see how several thousand acres are turned over, regularly, ever}^ season, by each of the hundreds of ranchers, with no more difficulty than farmers in other sections 30 have, in plowing a very few- hundred acres, or les>. There are no snow banks here to cover the fertile, soft fields during the winter months, and, as soon as the fall rains begin, the rancher can set his gang plows be- hind his twelve mule teams and not take them out of the ground, as it were, until his wide acres are read}- to leave for the harvester, the coming sunnier. The men that drive these teams have no very difficult task, and receive good wages; which, however, they are said to spend in a questionable way with a lamentable thoroughness and regular- ity. The laboring classes seem, in the agricultural districts, at least, not to 31 have reached that industrial period yet, where the value of money is appreciated the wa}^ it is in the older East- ern localities. You know, Aunt Alice and Uncle Frank, that you have sometimes been re- lieved of my letters for even days at a time. Kindly use some of these saved mo- ments in trying to overlook the serious inroad upon 3^our leisure, caused b}^ the above, through the unfor- tunate regard of Your affectionate Nephew. 32 Home, May 6, 1903. My Dear Co jsin Edith, — Why are you not around to go with one, now and then? When are 3^ou com- ing out? "What first im- pressed me when I came?" Perhaps you wnll say, '^How odd." It was the trip across the Bay, and the gulls. If, in the winter season, one go, for the first time, to San Francisco, by w^ay of one of the large ferry boats that cross over from the Oakland pier, the great number of sea gulls that accompany the boat from 33 one side of Sau F^rancisco bay to the other, may give the observer a novel and pleasing surprise. They are very interesting creatures, and it seems about as hard for them to fly as it does for a duck to swim; the matter of getting tired does not appear to be one of their troubles; they all have ver^- good appetites, and it seems too bad that something to eat does not oftener come in their way. If a mouth- ful of anything goes over- board, it matters not much what, all the gulls on that side of the .boat imme- diately give their attenti(;n to getting that one mouth- ful, or, rather, making the attempt to get it. The gull that is successful, at once 34 chooses to be alone, in the same way that a chicken or a turkey, upon finding some- thing edible, or even unedi- ble, makes off with it, and is at once followed vigorously by all his companions. The note of the gull is a plain- tive, light cry, which, when repeated by many voices, becomes a matter of high pitch. 1'he wind blows some- times in San Francisco. It is a good place to really find out how much the same any wnnd is, most anywhere, whether on the New Eng- land coast, off the shores of Lake Michigan, over the prairies of the Middle West, or down Market street, San Francisco. If there is any difference, I think, perhaps. 35 the ladies use slightly longer hat pins, and the men wear their hats a trifle smaller in the Golden Gate Cit}^ than elsewhere. People who are not good friends of a stiff breeze will find trouble in living harmoniously in this city. Those lovers of the quiet, balmy air, where not a leaf stirs, or where it is quite an event to see a little jostle in tht- tree tops, should hie themselves to the Southland. Of course, the normal sea breeze is expected abottt seaports, and San F'rancisco Bay is no exception, especially in the summer. People should find it a convenience to live in the vicinity of the Bay, because there are good reasons for not packing 36 away winter furs for the summertime, and, now and then, one is very likel}- to need an August wardrobe in January. In this respect it is an accommodatin.8^ cli- mate. One cannot get far out of the way by taking an overcoat in the morning any month in the year; and, if one chances to forget it, there is not the likelihood of presenting a lonely ap- pearance; for, lawn dresses, furs, light overcoats, heavy suits, straw hats, and the like, are all on very in- timate terms on the street, most any da}^; aboard the ferry it is true from one end of the calendar to the other. It would seem to me, Edith, that the summer is 37 a very dangerous season in the East; it would be an ap- propriate time for 3'ou to visit California. While earthquakes are very sug- gestive natural phenomena of what might happen, the record of cyclones for what has happened is a much more pertinent con- sideration. These, and other things, are believed to be true by one who remains, x\ffectionatel\' your Cousix. 38 Home, Ma}- 9, 1903. Dear Beatrice, — I sup- pose that I am always writ- ing about something which my Uncle Charles would consider to be of distinctl}' no importance. But how is this to be avoided? Things of so called consequence re- mind one of business, or, what is worse, ma}^ lead to serious moments, in which there is every certainty of saying something in earn- est, and the saying of earnest things is so ques- tionable. Thus, is desire driven back to the safe 39 things, away from human hopes and questions. If one go out along Val- ley View street and turn to the right after crossing Manor House Bridge, there appears, just ahead the opening to that portion of Horseshoe Creek Drive which lies toward the Si- erras and El Capitan Road. After crossing the space immediately in front of the House yard, one's attention is taken by the attractive lit- tle sketch on the road-side at the left. There are about a dozen locust trees stretched along, in a broken, slightly curved outline, and at their /^,! bases, in the winter season, is a strip of the finest Cali- fornia green, sprinkled over with the fallen locust leaves, 40 now brown and sere, near two months past. The tree trunks are not large, and from their tapering bodies far into the branches the climate has aided the tiny lichen plants, or fungus growths, to paint the bark in rich, old lemon browns and yellows. As the mel- low afternoon sun comes down through the naked branches on to the green beneath, the modest width of which lies between the road and the grass-choked fence, itself covered very thickly with lichen browns aiid yellowish greens, one recognizes a simple picture, but the sight of it is a quick and lasting joy. The mem- ory of it haunts one in pass- ing further along the drive 41 way, looking down its graceful lines, and througli its charmingh- gilded tree tops, on and out into the warmer haze of the X'alley, or off to the left on the solid soft blue of the lower Sierras, whose stern white peaks and summits hold the season for one; for, after all, it is winter, the time when the woodland scene that is green has an added charm and vigor. So, one stands, to the shoe top, in the thick, soft green, with the water of a near-b}' stream gurgling merril}^ along, the finches chattering busil}^ overhead, and a sense of deep thank- fulness withal for the land where Summer and Winter unite, and the heart, not 42 being chilled by the vigor of one or stupefied by the intensity of the other, is made glad b}' both. And, more than this, the charm- ing thing is not easily for- gotten; even if is small and of no repute. The memory of the fine thing is worth something. It abides with one and the joy of it in after days is a light to cue's pathway. The image of it remains strong and constant through so/rovvs and lesser jo3'S It does not become angry or lose patience with us like our fellows are wont to do; even if we know that we have done wTong and are yet scarcely penitent for it, the fine thing cen- sures not, but remains firm and beautiful, and waits for 43 us to come to true repent- ance; when this is accom- plished it becomes to us a r irrier of hope and a prom- ise of brighter days. We are friends again with our own to take up life afresh in a new day. And as the fine and beautiful thing tells us these things we are iLirateful to it for the con- fidence which it gives us in ourselves, and in the future. And because of these and like things, Beatrice, it will ever be impossible to re- main less than Faithfully yours, i1 JM. 24 lyucj LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 017 064 339 2