R E I» 0 H I
(I F
EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS
FOU A Sill I»-CAN AL.
ISTHMl'S OF DÂR1EN.
AAV Y DEPARTMEAT.
REPORTS
OF
EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS
TO ASCERTAIN THE
PRACTICABILITY OF A SHIP-CANAL
BETWEEN THE
ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC OCEANS
BY THE WAY OF
THE ISTHMUS OF DARIEN.
BY
THOS. OLIVER SELFRIDGE,
jSoM MANDER, JJ. jS, J^AYY.
i ■»
WASHINGTON:
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE.
18 74.
J? 6>y 71)
/7 / 7
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS.
Navy Department,
Washington, January 10, 1870.
Sir: You are appointed to the command of an expedition to make a survey of the Isthmus
of Darien, to ascertain the point at which to cut a canal from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean.
The steam-sloop Nipsic and the store-ship Guard will be under your immediate command, while
a vessel of Rear-Admiral Turner's fleet will be detailed to co-operate with you on the Pacific side.
The Department has intrusted to you a duty connected with the greatest enterprise of the
present age; and upon your enterprise and zeal will depend whether your name is honorably
identified with one of the facts of the future.
The first thing necessary for success is a proper organization of the force which is to accom¬
pany you, a proper equipment of the vessels to meet all the wants of the service on which you are
ordered; and a thorough understanding of what you are about to undertake, and when you should
first commence your operations. For this reason the Department has endeavored to supply you
with all the information it could obtain, which will, at least, enable you to avoid those difficulties
which have beset former explorers.
Four officers of the Coast Survey will be directed to report to you for duty on the Isthmus, and
will be under your immediate command and amenable to all your orders. They will come to you
supplied with all the necessary materials and instruments for prosecuting the work vigorously and
scientifically. These officers will take passage in the Guard, and you will take care that they
are accommodated in a proper manner in the rooms fitted for their use on board that vessel, and
provided for in the wardroom-mess. You will also see that a secure place is selected in which to
place their equipage, instruments, and all other articles that may be required in the expedition.
For this purpose you will visit the Guard, examine into her arrangements, and suggest to the
commandant of the New York navy-yard whatever improvements you desire to have made.
Besides the Coast Survey officers, there will be several assistants, chain-bearers, flag-men,
tent-men, &c., whom you will locate and provide for in a mess by themselves while they are 011
shipboard. While on shore they will be provided for as usual on the Coast Survey.
There will also be attached to the expedition, two photographers, an electriciau, and probably a
gentleman who will go as geologist, who will also be messed and berthed in the wardroom.
You will be furnished with about one hundred miles of telegraph-wire, and the necessary instru¬
ments used in transmitting intelligence from point to point as you proceed with your work. These,
with all the necessary implements for fixing and repairing the wires, you will have stowed in a
place provided for them.
The photographer will be furnished with all the necessary apparatus, including acids; which
latter you will so secure that there will be no danger to the ship.
Inclosed you will find a list of all the articles needed on the expedition, which it will be your duty
to see provided in such a manner as the Department may direct. It is considered that everything
is therein mentioned that will be necessary for the complete success of the expedition, but if there
is anything wanting you will apply for it.
Each department of the expedition will receive their orders from you after they report to you ;
H. Mis. 113-—-1
2
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
and all reports will be made to yon and through you to the Navy Department and the Government.
No data or information will be furnished by any person under your command to any other person
without your sanction.
All the disbursements of the expedition which come out of the appropriation for the survey will
be made by the paymaster of your vessel under your direction, and he will account to the Treas¬
ury officers for the same on the termination of your duties. The appropriation is to be used solely
for objects and duties connected with the survey, and is not to be mixed up in any way with mat¬
ters connected with the Navy.
It will be necessary to take every precaution to propitiate the Indians on the Isthmus, who
may be made of great service to the expedition. A contrary course might make them very trouble¬
some enemies. For the purpose of securing their kind services, it will be necessary to purchase
such articles for gifts as may please them, and you will submit to the Department a list of such
articles as it may be desirable to procure. Under no circumstances will the Indians be furnished
with arms, ammunition, or spirituous liquors.
As it is probable that some of your people will contract the fever of the Isthmus, you will make
proper sanitary arrangements, and furnish your command writh all the necessaries required in case
of sickness. A sufficient number of medical officers will be sent with you to take care of the sick.
You will provide yourself with light boats, such as men can carry with ease from one river to
another, and the balsa is also recommended for such purpose. These can be purchased from the
Gutta Percha Company, or supplied on Captain Ammen's plan, if suitable, from the Portsmouth
navy-yard.
It would be well if two of the Coast Survey officers should proceed to Aspinwall in advance
of you, and establish at that place the true latitude and longitude. With the point thus estab¬
lished, you can connect and verify your work as you advance, or you can from it determine the
position of other points.
You will be furnished with an additional number of marines for the protection of working-
parties, and marine-officers will be detailed to command them while executing your orders.
It will be desirable for you to employ some persons who are familiar with the locality in which
you are to operate, and who understand the habits and customs of the natives; also any one who
may have been engaged in former surveys.
As you will have but a short time in which to prosecute the survey, owing to the lateness of
the season, you will get to your station as soon as possible.
It is quite certain that you can do nothing more than make a rapid reconnaissance this year,
in which case it must be left to your judgment when to return north in the sickly season.
Although a great deal will necessarily be left to your discretion, the Department deems it
advisable to suggest a general plan for your guidance after you commence work on shore. This
plan is based on information obtained from the best known sources, and may serve to assist you in
your operations.
You will keep a minute private journal of your proceedings, in which you will note the various
operations in which you are engaged from day to day. All the heads of parties under your com¬
mand will also keep journals, which they will submit to yoy, to be filed away among the records of
the expedition.
Inclosed is a list of observations to be made, geological specimens to be obtained, heights of
mountains to be measured, depths of rivers to be sounded, botanical specimens to be procured, &c.
Besides this, you will obtain a list of the products of the country, and give an account of the
climate, and character of the people.
Although the Department has no intention of tying you down to any particular method of
proceeding in your reconnaissance, yet it is deemed prudent to furnish you with such information
as may serve to guide you in your researches, and to point out difficulties which it is desirable to
avoid.
All the expeditions that have hitherto made a search for a line of low level across the Isthmus
of Dyrien have furnished maps of but little accuracy. Still these maps are useful for letting you
know where these expeditions failed, and it would scarcely be worth while to follow in the footsteps
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
3
of a party that had produced no evidence that a low line of levels was to be found within the area
of their explorations. It is well to profit by the failures of others, and a careful investigation of
their proceedings may lead to success.
No matter how many surveys have been made, or how accurate they may have been, the
people of this country will never be satisfied until every point on the Isthmus is surveyed by some
responsible authority, and by properly-equipped parties, such as will be under your command,
working on properly-matured plans. Your attention is therefore called to a paper accompanying
these orders, headed " General plan for conducting a reconniassance of the Isthmus of Darien,"
and another headed "Memorandums to serve as a basis of instructions for the surveying-parties."
Your first duty should be to furnish yourself with such skeleton-maps as have hitherto been
published, copies of which should be supplied to the different surveying-parties. These will aid
the parties in following the proposed routes, and enable them to judge the probable location of
each other, or to communicate in case an opportunity offers to do so. These maps will be furnished
to you.
While operating on land, your boats and those of your consorts should be employed in care¬
fully tracing the shore-line, and endeavoring to find practicable points for building a harbor, in
case a line of low level should be found, terminating on the broad ocean. The successful building
of Port Said, in the shifting sands of the Red Sea, is satisfactory proof that the absence of natural
harbors would be no bar to the opening and working of a ship-canal.
I do not consider that I am doubting your prudence when I again suggest the importance of
cultivating the kindest feelings with the natives of the Isthmus. On this depends the success of
your expedition. These people are known to be much opposed to strangers gaining a correct
knowledge of their country 5 but by a proper display of kindness they may be won over to consent
to such explorations and surveys being made as are necessary, and may ultimately be persuaded
to co-operate with you. Whatever friendly feeling they may manifest, the history of the past and
their doubtful character should induce you to be at all times on your guard and prepared for any
contingency. A proper display of force, ever on the alert, may prevent hostilities which would
otherwise occur.
The Department will communicate with you from time to time as your work progresses.
The Bureau of Provisions and Clothing is directed to furnish you with such supplies as you may
need. The Bureau of Navigation will fill your requisition for charts and instruments, and the
Bureau of Ordnance will furnish you with such arms as you may deem requisite. The Bureau of
Medicine will be directed to furnish you such articles beyond the regular allowance as you may
require.
Officers of the Signal-Corps will be detailed to accompany you, and the probability is that you
will find them very useful.
You will furnish yourself with the Army (night and day) signal-apparatus for at least six
parties.
It is proposed that the signal-officers shall accompany the Coast Survey parties on shore
wherever they may be needed.
Yery respectfully,
GEO. M. ROBESON,
Secretary of the Navy.
Commander Thomas O. Selfhidge, U. S. N.,
Commanding Darien Expedition.
REPORT
UPON
THE SURVEY OF THE ISTHMUS OF DARIEN FOR AN 1NTER0CEANIC SHIP-CANAL,
BY COMMANDER THOMAS O. SELFRIDGE, U. S. N.,
*
1870.
Portland, Maine, October 29, 1870.
Sir : I have the honor to submit to you my report of the operations of the expedition under
my command for the survey of the Isthmus of Darien for an interoceanic canal, with accompanying
papers, of which the following is a list :
Report of hydrographie operations, Commander E. P. Lull.
Report upon the survey of the Caledonia route, Assistant J. P. Sullivan.
Report upon astronomical observations, Assistant A. T. Mossman.
Report upon geologicalformation, J. P. Carson.
Report upon geological formation, E. W. Bowditch.
Report upon barometrical observations, J. P. Carson.
Medical report, Past Assistant Surgeons Simons and Griffin.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
THOS. O. SELFRIDGE,
Commander Z7. S. A., Commanding Darien Exploring Expedition.
Hon. George M. Robeson,
Secretary of the Navy, Washington, D. G.
List of officers and civilians attached to the expedition of 1870 for the survey of the Isthmus of Darien,
officers.
UNITED STATES STEAMER NIPSIC.
Commander Thomas O. Selfridge, commanding.
Lieutenant S.Hubbard.
Lieutenant E. McCormack.
Master G. S. Davol.
Ensign J. S. Moser.
Ensign R. T. Jasper.
Commander E. P. Lull.
Lieutenant G. S. Schulze.
Lieutenant R. D. Hitchcock.
Master F. Collins.
Master J. G. Eaton.
Ensign A. Elliot.
Ensign R. E. Riles.
Past Assistant Paymaster J. P. Loom is.
Past Assistant Surgeon W. J. Simon.
First Assistant Engineer W. S. Smith.
Second Assistant Engineer L. C. Safford.
Captain's clerk, E. G. Casey.
UNITED STATES SHIP GUARD.
Ensign J. M. Hawley.
Past Assistant Paymaster F. Bissell.
Assistant Surgeon A. Griffith.
Captain of marines, G. P. Houston.
Lieutenant of marines, M. G. Goodrell.
Lieutenant of marines, S. K. Allen.
6
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
civilians.
Assistant J. A. Sullivan, U. S. Coast Survey.
Assistant A. T. Mossman, XJ. S. Coast Survey.
S ul>-Assist ant H. G. Ogden, XJ. S. Coast Survey.
Sub-Assistant H. L. Merinden, XJ. S. Coast Sur¬
vey.
Draughtsman L. Karcher, XJ. S. Coast Survey.
Mineralogist, J. P. Carson.
Mineralogist, E. W. Bowditch.
Chief telegrapher, W. H. Clarke.
Assistant telegrapher, Calvin McDowell.
Assistant telegrapher, A. J. Gustin.*
Photographer, T. H. O'Sullivan.
INTEROCEANIC CANAL.
From the time of the earliest discoveries of America, the attentipn of the civilized world has
been directed to a shorter passage to the Indies somewhere in the narrow neck of land connecting
the continents of North and South America. The discovery of this strait or passage was the
ambition of Columbus, who skirted the coast of Darien in 1502 and 1503, but who was compelled
to abandon the search from the mutinous conduct of his crew.
In 1513 Yasco Nunez de Balboa first discovered the Pacific Ocean, after suffering incredible
hardships from the rugged nature of the country and the hostilities of its inhabitants. Cortez,
after the conquest of Mexico, directed his attention to the subject of a canal, and investigations
bearing upon it were made.
So on, amid intervening years, up to the present date, parties have been fitted out, surveys have
been made, and plans projected ) but all have recoiled before this gigantic task, the greatest the
world has ever known. The vast strides made in engineering and mechanical knowledge will
doubtless ere long commence and carry forward to a successful completion a work, whose advan¬
tages have been so often and ably portrayed that it will not be necessary to dwell upon them in this
report.
Sufficient is it to add that advantageous as an interoceanic canal would be to the commercial
welfare of the whole world, it is doubly so for the necessities of American interests in the East.
The Pacific is naturally our domain. The one great commercial nation on its borders, any work
that brings it within close communication to our eastern coast, and avoids the long and tem¬
pestuous passage of Gape Horn, cannot be too highly appreciated, and no cost or labor should be
spared to forward the undertaking.
What the Suez Canal is proving to Europe in a far greater extent will a canal through the
Isthmus prove to America. But to cover all the advantages that a work of this nature is capable
of extending to the commerce of the world, a canal should partake of the nature of a strait, with
no locks or impediments to prolong the passage, or render it hazardous by a lack of water for
lockage or the loss of time necessary to this mode of overcoming the difficulties of the transit.
BOUTES FOB A CANAL.
The routes at different times proposed and now under examination may be classed as the
Tehuantepee, Honduras, Chiriqui, Panama, the different passes through the mountains of Darien,
and those to the extreme south by means of the Atrato and its tributaries.
Tehuantepec.—This route is now in the possession of a company who have a charter from
the Mexican government to construct a railroad and ship-canal. It has the disadvantage of pos¬
sessing no natural harbors at either terminus that will not have to be much improved before they
could be made available ; great length, it being one hundred and twenty miles across from ocean
to ocean in a direct line, of which but a small portion by the Coatzacoalcos Biver is navigable for
ships j high mountains to cross by lockage, for which there is no adequate supply of water, and the
mountain-section is much too long to admit of advantageous tunneling.
* Discharged for misconduct at Cartagena, South America.
TROPICAL FOREST.
DABIEN SHIP-CANAL.
7
Honduras.—This transit is in a direct line ninety-three miles. There are fine harbors at
each extremity, but it has the insurmountable disadvantages of the Tehuantepec, length of course,
and impassable mountains.
Chiriqui.—Prom Chiriqui Lagoon on the Atlantic to the Gulf of Dulce on the Pacific it is
fifty miles across in its narrowest part. This route possesses above all others the most admirable
and capacious harbors. But little is known of it, however, beyond a reconnaissance made by the
Chiriqui commission, who reported it favorable for the construction of a railway. But while the
latter might be possible, the report proves a very considerable elevation, which would require a
resort to a great length of tunneling, the mountains rising to an elevation of 1,600 feet within five
miles of the coast, and there are no. rivers of sufficient volume to render practicable a system of
lockage.
*
Nicaragua.—This line has been long looked upon with favor as ultimately the one which
would be found the most available. But it is entirely impracticable for a canal without locks,
which, if possible, is the only construction that will answer every demand of commerce. Undoubt¬
edly, for a lock-canal it presents the inexhaustible supply of the great lake of Nicaragua; but it
is entirely destitute of harbors. It would require no less than thirty locks, and the climate on the
banks of the San Juan is one of the most sickly in Central America. Should subsequent explora¬
tions prove unfavorable for a through-cut, it may be necessary to have recourse to the Nicaragua
route as possessing a sure means of crossing the Cordilleras with an abundant supply of water;
but the great amount of excavation necessary will, I think, be found equal perhaps to deeper cuts
and a shorter distance in other localities.
Panama.—This route is so well known that it will only be necessary to add that, with its
summit of 262 feet, it presents thus far almost the only feasible point for a through-cut. It unfor¬
tunately possesses but poor harbors, and the climate in the bottom lands of the Chagres Biver is very
unhealthy. Should no other route be found, a canal could be cut on this line at an expense that
would be within the limits of a cost that would finally prove remunerative to the projectors.
Darien.—The three principal routes across the Isthmus are the San Bias, from the bay of that
name on the Atlantic to the mouth of the Bayamo or Chepo Biver on the Pacific ; the Caledonia or
Darien, from Caledonia Bay to the Gulf of San Miguel; the Tuyra, which line would cross the
mountains in the vicinity of the mouth of the Atrato and follow the valley of the Darien or Tuyra
Biver to the Gulf of San Miguel.
The orology of the Isthmus of Darien and an intimate knowledge of the mountain-outline,
acquired in repeated passages up and down the Atlantic coast, fully convince me that it is useless
to explore farther than the routes above enumerated with the slightest prospect of success. An
accurate knowledge of the country in the vicinity of these lines, the information gained from them
of the general character of the mountain-ranges, and the fact that no other route would possess
any harbors, give us all the data necessary to decide upon the availability of the Isthmus of Darien
for canalization.
The Atrato.—Most of our knowledge of this region is derived from the reports of engineers
sent out by a public-spirited citizen of New York, F. M. Kelley, esq., who has devoted time and
fortune to the solving of the canal-problem, and to the surveys of the lamented Craven and
Lieutenant (nowT Brigadier-General) Micliler, United States Army. The results of these surveys
give us the line via the Truando to the Pacific as probably the only one that presents a feasible
aspect, and General Michler has in his report given one of the most complete surveys ever made
from ocean to ocean for the purpose of finding a canal-route.
If nothing better should be found,-a canal could be constructed either by this line or the
Panama, within the limits of practical expense, and it will require a nice calculation of the details
of each route to decide which could be selected to the best advantage.
THE OBOLOGY OF THE ISTHMUS OF DABIEN.
The terms Darien and Panama are indiscriminately applied to the narrow neck of land between
latitudes 8° and 10° north, connecting North and South America. Properly speaking, the Isthmus
8
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
of Panama comprises all the territory watered by the Chagres and its tributaries across the divide
to the Pacific.
The Isthmus of Darien extends from the San Bias Mountains, which separate the head-waters
of the Mandinga and Marmoni from those of the Chagres, to the boundaries of the State of Choco,
or to the mountain-range from which the Tuyra or Darien River takes its rise, this range running
in a southwesterly direction from the mouth of the Atrato toward the Pacific.
The Cordilleras, entering the State of Panama, diverge toward the Pacific, and on the line of
the Panama Railroad are not distant more than five miles from that ocean. They lose their character
as mountains, and the divide ranging from 262 to 600 feet is broken into a great number of isolated
peaks and hills, through the gorges of which the line of railroad runs to the city of Panama. From
the point where the railroad crosses the divide, the latter stretches to the northeast, increasing
greatly in altitude, and bifurcates; one fork inclosing the head-waters of the Chagres, and, dividing
it from the Mandinga, meets the Atlantic in the vicinity of Cape Manzanillo. The other, stretching
to the east within a few miles of the coast, takes the name of the Cordilleras Lloranes, and forms
the great back-bone of the Darien Isthmus as far as the mouth of the Atrato. It here again suffers
a depression, separating the Atrato from the Tuyra, and, turning to the southwest, forms with the
Antioquian chain the Andes of South America.
Let the orology of Darien be carefully considered, and it will appear that though through its
whole length it is narrower than any other of the transits spoken of, there are but few points which
present any probability of a successful search for a low level.
The Cordilleras Lloranes skirt the Atlantic coast at distances varying from five to eight miles,
and varying in altitude from 1,000 to 3,000 feet. Between this range and the shore there are three
other ridges or hills, decreasing in altitude successively, and cut up with valleys, through which
the various water-courses wind their way to the Atlantic. This feature does not permit plains of
any size, circumscribes the valleys, and, breaking up the whole surface of the country, covered as
it is with a dense primeval growth, renders all attempts at a regular survey of a most difficult nature.
From the close proximity of the Cordilleras to the Atlantic, we find no rivers of any size except
the Mandinga ; they are mostly brooks in the dry season and mountain-torrents in the wet.
This dividing range through the length of Darien is very narrow at its crest, in some places
not exceeding a few feet in width, with steep slopes and spurs jutting out from each side, over
which leads the Indian trail. These spurs inclose ravines, which extend so far into the divide
that the water-courses which spring from them are often not more than a thousand feet apart on each
side, and they would in themselves form an important feature in reducing the estimates of exca¬
vation, but for the fact that their mean level is too high to enable us to dispense with tunneling.
The western slope of the Cordilleras, being much wider, is drained by three large rivers. The
Bay a mo, rising in the Chiman range, an offshoot of the Cordilleras, flows north ; the Chucunaqua,
also rising in the southern slope of the Chiman Mountains, empties into] the Tuyra not far from its
mouth ; the Tuyra, the largest river of the Isthmus, rising in the boundaries of the State of Clioco
in the 'south, drains the western slope and empties into the Gulf of San Miguel.
The Cordilleras skirting so closely the Atlantic coast, it follows that any deep depression in
their outline could be seen from the sea, though its depth might be hid by the intervening hills
that lie between them and the coast. No such depression is visible except in the valley of the
Mandinga, and constant inquiries among different tribes of Indians, still further strengthen this fact.
The Chiman range cuts the Isthmus transversely and separates the sources of two rivers, one
flowing north and the other south ; it is therefore evident the mean height of any transit-line will be
greater the nearer you approach the center of the Isthmus. In other words, from the configuration
of the land as marked by the water-courses, it must be at the extremities, and not in the center, that
we can with any success hope to find a favorable route.
The northern extremity is but thirty-six miles across, and is the narrowest portion of the western
continent. The southern extremity embraces the valley of the Tuyra; and, though wider than the
other portion, it has the advantage, if reports are true, of having the lowest divide anywhere
to be found. The question of harbors, entering so minutely into the canal-problem, still further
narrows our researches.
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
9
There are but two fine harbors on the Atlantic coast, the Gulf of San Bias and Caledonia Bay.
Both of these are admirable, ancî possess every requirement, and from their vicinity only could a
canal well be constructed.
Though the Isthmus of Darien is an unexplored wilderness and but little known, yet, for the
purpose of canalization, there are therefore but three portions that admit of any necessity of
exploration, to settle the question of its adaptability to the purpose in view.
CLIMATE.
The climate of Darien, like other portions of the tropics, may be divided into two seasons, wet
and dry. The former extends from May to January ; but the rain-fall varies greatly for different
months. Commencing in May, this month and June are rainy, but in July and until the middle of
August the weather is comparatively good, and labor at this period would be but little incommoded.
In the middle of August commence the heavy rains, and they continue till January. Severe
squalls, water-spouts, vivid thunder and lightning, and such rain as may well be called a deluge,
mark this period. At this time no excavations would be possible not protected with sheds. The
rivers overflow their banks, and all low land near the coast is inundated.
The dry season, or the season of the breezes, as it is sometimes called, commences in January
and ends in May. At this time the trade-winds blow fresh from the north, and a heavy sea breaks
all along the coast, rendering it impossible to land or anchor when not protected by reefs or harbors.
The climate at this period is delightful ; little or no rain falls except in the mountains, which, inter¬
cepting the trade clouds, always precipitate more or less moisture upon the Atlantic slope ; the air
is moist and cool, the sky clear day and night, and the thermometer ranges between 79° and 86°.
After the expiration of the trades, in the latter part of April, sea and land breezes prevail,
and with them the thermometer rises to 88° and falls to 76°, showers are frequent, and heavy
rain for a day or two.
Though the above is the general aspect of the seasons, the experience of this expedition has,
however, been different. Rain has occurred more or less every month, particularly three or four days
before the new moon, and especially in the interior, where work was interrupted whole days.
Though it is a disputed point that the moon has any effect in disturbing the equilibrium of the
earth's atmosphere, the changes of the weather with the changes of the moon were very marked
upon the Isthmus. The closing days of the lunar month were sure to be marked with rain, and
showers were always more frequent in the latter than in the early quarters of the moon.
With us the month of May was marked with unusually severe rains ; the enormous amount of
seven inches fall in one night was recorded at Aspinwall; but during the first two weeks in June the
weather was charming. Such an amount of rain in the dry season and such a heavy fall in May had
rarely been known. The Isthmus of Darien has a most unenviable reputation for sickness. This
is partly traditional, from the early experiences of the Spaniards, and partly from our experiences on
the Isthmus of Panama, Nicaragua, and other portions of Central America. The formation of
Aspinwall and of a portion along the line of the railroad is coralline. The Mindi and other swamps
in the bottom-lands of the Chagres River hold in decomposition a vast amount of vegetable matter.
Unfavorable as this should be, the record of the Panama Railroad develops a mortality of only two
hundred and ninety-three white men out of six thousand that were constantly engaged on the work.
The coolies fared the worse, the negroes and natives better.
That the Isthmus of Darien is vastly more healthy is not only the unanimous record of every
previous explorer, but is abundantly verified by the experience of this expedition, which, number¬
ing a force of two hundred and eighty men, suffered but one death, and that from drowning,
though exposed to a severe test from the constant exposure incident to the survey, which at all
times required a large number in the field. The fever we met with differs from the Chagres fever,
leaving none of the effects of the latter upon the system, and arose more from fatigue and privation
than from any climatic causes. That a less favorable condition of health would be experienced in the
wet season is undoubtedly correct; but our ships of war lie for months in the harbor of Aspinwall
without injury, and I have no idea, with proper shelter and food, that the excavation of a canal
upon the Isthmus of Darien would prove any more unhealthy than in many places in the United
States where the virgin soil is first turned up.
H. Mis. 113- 2
10
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
INHABITANTS.
The whole of the Isthmus of Darien, except a small portion of the valley of the Tuyra,
comprising the towns of Chipogana, Pinogana, Yavisa, and Santa Maria, aiid a few scattering
inhabitants on the Bayamo near its mouth, is uninhabited except by the San Bias or Darien
Indians. It is on account of their jealous exclusion of foreigners that so little is known of the
country. In 1719 the Catholic missionaries had succeeded in establishing a number of towns on
the Atlantic coast and upon the rivers flowing into the Gulf of San Miguel, but they were all
destroyed by the Indians. In 1790 a treaty of peace was made with the Indians of Darien, in
compliance with which the Spaniards abandoned all their forts in that district, in which no white
man has since settled. They have the usual characteristics of the copper-colored race, but are
much lower in stature than the North American Indians, being rarely met with over five feet six
inches in height. They are a muscular race, capable of great exertion, for which their life in
canoes, or the broken nature of their mountain-homes, peculiarly fit them. They are very peace¬
able in their natures, and I could learn of no conflict between the villages, but yet independent and
resolute against foreigners. They inhabit the whole Atlantic coast from San Bias to the Tarena,
mouth of the Atrato, and in the interior from the Sucubti to the upper parts of the Bayamo.
There is no head, or chief, of the whole tribe, as commonly reported ; but though the language and
customs are similar, each village or tribe has its head-man, or chief, generally the oldest man of the
tribe, to whom all pay great deference.
The Mountain Indians, or Bravos, as styled by the Spaniards, are more numerous than gen¬
erally supposed. On the Sucubti branch of the Chucunaqua wre found three large villages, that
could not have contained less than one thousand inhabitants. The most warlike, as well as the
least known, and probably the most numerous, are the Chucunas and Navigandis, in the center of
the Isthmus. The interior, back of San Bias, is uninhabited ; neither are the Indian settlements
met with until you ascend the Bayamo some forty miles.
The Coast Indians, from contact with foreigners, are very docile and tractable, and by a con¬
ciliatory course I found no difficulty, after becoming known, in obtaining guides and all the
information they possess of the interior; but they stand in awe of the Mountain Indians, and
would never accompany me into their territory. They live principally upon fish, plantains, and
bananas, with Indian corn and a kind of cassava. Some sugar-cane is raised, the juice of which,
extracted in a rude way between twro poles, upon one of which an Indian jumps, they mix with
cocoa for a beverage.
The women are very short, and their large features and straight coarse hair do not give them
a prepossessing appearance. After reaching womanhood they cut their hair short and blacken the
teeth. They wear large gold rings in their noses and ears, and necklaces of silver pieces, tiger,
monkey, and alligator teeth. The women all tattoo across the bridge of the nose, and paint their
cheek-bones red ; but paint or tattoo is seldom used among the men.
I was not able to discover their ancient form of worship. Their belief in a Supreme Being is
the result of contact with the Spaniards a century ago, rather than an ancient tribal belief. They
believe in evil spirits, and their Leles, or medicine-men, have numerous ugly images and ridiculous
relics, that are believed to possess the power to cure diseases. They are exceedingly averse to labor,
except the little required in the cultivation of their fields, and no assistance from this source would be
obtained for the work of a canal. They believe that God made the country just as it is, and that
He would be angry with them and kill them if they assisted in any work constructed by white
men. Work in the fields is left to the women, but the severe labor is mostly performed by
men. Polygamy, though permitted, is rare, and the Darien Indians are particularly marked by
their jealous exclusion of women from observation. During our stay at Caledonia Bay no women
were ever met with, and upon our approach they were always removed from the villages, and this
was the only mark of fear they evinced toward us. No traces of amalgamation were met with,
but some albinoes. Their arms are principally the bow and arrow, in the use of which they are
very skillful, and the single-barreled shot-gun.
The Mountain Indians rarely visit the coast, except to trade their native products, ivory-nuts,
cocoa, and caoutchou, for cotton cloths, beads, and a few simple domestic utensils. The Coast
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
11
Indians carry on a large trade in cocoa-nuts, ivory-nuts, and tortoise-shell. Though the republic
of Colombia has a nominal authority, they have always maintained their independence. They
number probably not less than seven thousand, but their strength lies in the rugged nature of
their country. Their independence of character prevents the use of presents to any extent, and
they will be of little service in procuring a desired policy. Individuals would refuse to receive
gifts, until they had obtained the permission of their head-men, and I could never prevail upon
any of the chiefs to accept anything in my official capacity. An amusing example of this occurred
on one occasion. I was paying my first visit to the chief of the Sassardis, and, ignorant of their
prejudices, had brought for him a large present of cloth, needles, &c. He at first refused, but
afterward accepted them out of compliment to me, as he said, as I told him it was the custom in
my country never to take back a present once given. After our council had broken up, I noticed
a palaver among them, and on my return to my gig found the present returned. I went back and
told them I was very angry at their discourtesy, but they replied their customs would not permit
them to receive presents from foreign governments. However, I put the present on the beach, and
afterward saw the cloth in the chief's house. This denial of what they would gladly purchase,
showed an independence of character cropping out in an amusing way that was pleasant to -find.
As a whole, this tribe are cowardly, but treacherous, and, though they are to be feared only by
small parties, become dangerous in a work like ours, from their knowledge of the country, to the
scattered parties engaged in surveying or bringing up supplies.
GEOLOGICAL FORMATION.
*
The geological formation of the Isthmus presents but little diversity from the other portions
of the great range of mountains of which it forms a part. There were no indications of recent
volcanic action, and but few volcanic stones were found. The mountains themselves thrown up
in the original upheaval are immense masses of syenite or trap.
The plains for from two to five miles from the coast are of coralline formation, covered with
the alluvium washed from the mountains, a system of reclaiming from the sea which is a striking
feature of the world's economy.
Passing from the coralline formation, we meet an outer cropping of sandstone at a high angle,
which, although modified by the surrounding topography, taken in connection with the steep slope
of the mountains on the Atlantic slope, appears to have been upheaved and at the same time
folded over.
At an elevation of 100 feet on the Caledonia route, syenite is first met with, which, forming
the substructure of the mountain-area, extends for some fourteen miles where'the sandstone again
becomes visible, which continues the underlying-formation until lost in the clay beds of the Chu-
cunaqua. Indications of copper were found in great abundance on the Sassardi and Morti line,
and veins of pure copper, though small, were traced for several feet. Iron and copper pyrites were
met in great abundance, but no indications of gold were discovered on any of the routes^explored
by the expedition.
Large numbers of agates were obtained on the Sassardi line.
The San Bias route was singularly uninteresting in geological specimens. Decomposed
syenite and sandstone were met with on the lower portion above an altitude of twenty feet, while
trap composed the formation of the great mountain-area of this route.
SURVEY OF THE ISTHMUS OF DARIEN. (Plates I and XI.)
In December, 1869, preparatory orders were issued to me to command an expedition for the
survey of the Isthmus of Darien. The vessels designated were the Nipsic and the Guard on the
Atlantic, and the Nyack had orders to co-operate from the Pacific side. There was much to be
done in the way of preparation, and considerable alterations were to be made in the Guard, which
was to act as storeship and accommodate the civilians of the expedition.
The stumbling-block of previous expeditions had been a lack of provisions, as well as of a suit¬
able nature and in a portable shape. Those provided proved to be perfectly adapted for the purpose,
possessing the greatest amount of nourishment, and of sufficient variety, at the minimum weight.
12
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
For the benefit of future undertakings, a list and quantities sufficient for one hundred men for four
months is here appended: 7,000 pounds lean bacon; 10,000 pounds bread; 6,000 pounds tomato -
soup; 300 gallons beans; 2,000 pounds rice; 2,500 pounds coffee; 3,000 pounds sugar; 100 pounds
salt; 100 bottles pepper; 600 pairs shoes; 2,000 pounds preserved beef; 500 pounds preserved
chicken; 500 pounds preserved corn 600 pounds; preserved canned butter.
The final instructions of the Department, dated January 10, 1870, directed me to make a
survey of the Isthmus of Darien to such an extent as to ascertain its adaptability for an inter-
oceanic canal.
With so much left to my discretion, it is proper to state the reasons for the selection of the
points where operations were carried on.
It was not possible for the expedition to leave New York before the latter part of January, and
commence work before late in February. This left but a half of the dry season to carry on opera¬
tions in a country new to all of us, and requiring a kind of labor novel to the officers of the expe¬
dition. One of the first requisites of a canal being good harbors, our attention was naturally
called to those portions of the Isthmus which supplied this need. The only fine harbors on the
Atlantic coast are the Gulf of San Bias and Caledonia Bay. From the latter a line to the Pacific
runs to the Gulf of San Miguel, one of the finest harbors on the whole extent of the Pacific coast.
Upon this line in particular we had been led to expect interruptions from the Mountain Indians,
which might require our strength unimpaired to overcome, rather than to meet them after our ener¬
gies had been exhausted and our enthusiasm dampened by the difficulties of some other route.
The transit between these two harbors, which I shall hereafter style the Darien line, had been
rendered memorable by the heroic sufferings of Lieutenant Strain, who, with Mr. Gisborne, an En¬
glish engineer, who had subsequently traversed it, had both pronounced it impracticable. Neither of
them had brought it, however, to a strict engineering test; while the assertions of Dr. Cullen, that
a valley existed in the divide not over 280 feet in altitude, the splendid harbors at the termini,
left a lingering hope that a line, in many respects so well adapted, might yet be found practicable.
In other words, there was a doubt in the public mind resting upon this route that it was necessary
to solve.
The San Bias line, shorter, and freed in the interior from Indians, could be surveyed by a
smaller party ; while the Tuyra route, in the southern part of the Isthmus, required a vessel on the
Pacific side, to wait for which would have been to lose the season. I accordingly determined to
commence work on the Darien line while the expedition was fresh and eager, and, if time permitted,
to take up subsequently the San Bias.
The Nipsic sailed from New York January 22, 1870, and the Guard, Lieutenant-Commander
(now Commander) Lull, January 26. A long passage and an accident to her machinery prevented
the Nipsic from leaving Aspinwall until February 17. On our way out we touched at Porto Bello
for the purpose of procuring some Palenque men, an industrious race used to wood craft, de¬
scended from the Spanish Maroons, inhabiting the coast between Porto Bello and San Bias. I
found that the alcaide had orders from President Correoso, of the State of Panama, to facilitate
my plans, and that similar orders had been given to all the alcaldes in the State. I engaged with
him to furnish forty laborers in a week's time.
Upon touching at Porto Bello on our return, 1 found the Palenque people present, but no in¬
ducements on my part could persuade them to go with the expedition, their fear of the Indians
overcoming their love of gain. They would have liked to have gone on the Mandinga or San Bias
route, but not to Caledonia Bay. I was much disappointed, for they were a fine class of men,
docile, industrious, and specially fitted for the work in hand. There was nothing to be done, however^
but to return to Aspinwall, and pick up such as could be had at the moment. In procuring labor¬
ers at this short notice, I was much indebted to the good offices of Sehor Don Bias Arosemena, the
Colombian commissioner accompanying the expedition. By the following Saturday, the 19th, a
motley crowd of twenty-four had been collected. Their appearance did not indicate much useful¬
ness, but time was too precious to admit of delay, and we sailed the same evening for the Rio
Diablo, a large Indian settlement, whose chief was reputed to have great influence among them.
Arrived at the Rio Diablo about noon ; visited the settlement in the afternoon, and found the
chief, known by the soubriquet of u Shoemaker," ready to receive us in the presence of the chief
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
13
men of his tribe. After the usual profession of friendship that they always indulge in, and which
you are expected to return with interest, our conversation led to what I had come for, which they
were curious to know. When I told them I had come to find a road for a canal, they one and all
declared that their land was no place for one5 but after a lengthy palaver, u Shoemaker" con¬
sented to send couriers to the interior to tell the people to be friendly. I found afterward that the
representations that this chief had influence beyond his tribe were erroneous; that each chief
spoke for his village and no further; and that up to the present nothing had occurred looking to a
consultation or consolidation to oppose us. The sole desire of each community was to get rid of
us; and if they could succeed in directing our attention elsewhere, they were very willing to tell
any stories that would take us away. This was my universal experience; each village insisting
that no pass or path existed in their vicinity, but telling us of others, whose people were equally
persistent in denying.
On Monday morning, February 21, we sailed for Caledonia Bay, which we reached late in the
afternoon, and found the Guard there, having arrived the previous Saturday.
Passing along the coast gave me an excellent opportunity to observe the elevations and
depressions of the Atlantic range, and satisfied me of the fact that if we could find no favorable
pass in the vicinity of Caledonia Bay, it would be useless to search for another outlet between
Sassardi and the Mandinga River.
Of the various attempts to explore the vicinity of Caledonia Bay for an interoceanic canal 110
traces have been left whose threads I could take up and unravel, excepting the statements of Dr.
Cullen. This gentleman concludes a pamphlet, styled u Over Darien," thus :
J am confident that the result of a survey would prove that, as I stated six years ago, there is a valley in the Cor¬
dilleras, between the head-waters of the Aglaseniqua and the Sucubti, through which it would be feasible to cut a
canal, and I am firmly convinced that a careful survey of the four or five miles which separate these rivers is all that
is necessary to establish the practicability of a canal, and decide a question so important to the commerce of the world.
A map had been forwarded to me, uj>on which was traced a river that Cullen asserted led up
to the valley in the divide, over which it was but a short distance to the Sucubti. The statements of
Dr. Cullen had been so severely criticised, and so presistently advocated by him, that I was inclined
to put some faith in his representations.
The day after our arrival, active operations were commenced ; a party was sent on shore to clear
away a ranch for the native laborers and telegraph-station, another party to clear away an island
for our observatory, and the same afternoon our first surveying party left to explore Cullen's River.
Until some experience had been gained, I considered it the better plan to return to the ship every
night, rather than to plunge at once into the inconveniences of a camp-life. This party was placed
in charge of Lieutenant Hubbard, the surveying operations directed by Assistant Sullivan, of the
Coast Survey. Their orders were to find the river traced by Cullen, to commence their compass-
line at its mouth, taking barometrical observations, and if appearances were favorable it would be
leveled over.
CARRYING OUT THE INSTRUCTIONS OF THE DEPARTMENT FOR A SYSTEMATIC
ORGANIZATION.
*
Lieutenant-Commander Lull was placed in charge of the hydrography, assisted by Assistant
Mossman, of the Coast Survey, and Ensigns Hawley, Elliot, Davol, and Niles. Assistant Sullivan
was placed in charge of the surveys upon the Darien route ; joined with him were Sub-Assistants
Ogden and Merinden.
Two surveying parties were organized from each ship, and placed in charge of Lieutenants
Sehulze, Hitchcock, and Hubbard, assisted by Ensigns Collins, Eaton, Moser, and Jasper.
On the day after our arrival, I met on the beach the head-man, or chief, of the Caledonia tribe.
He was pleasant, but knew nothing when questioned of the interior. This man became afterward
a firm friend, and evinced the greatest pleasure upon seeiug me return from atrip in the mountains.
In accordance with Department instructions and my own policy, the most peremptory orders
were given upon our arrival that the property of the Indians should be perfectly respected. Fruit
of no kind was to be picked without their consent ; their villages were not to be entered ; and any
14
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
outrage of their women would be visited with the severest punishment. These orders were strictly
enforced during our stay, and it was doubtless from this cause, and the show of force and vigil¬
ance displayed, that we never met with any unfriendly act on the part of the Indians, for I have no
idea that they would have permitted a small party to penetrate the interior. In all cases I made it
a point to ask permission to pass from one territory to another, giving them to understand at the
same time that I was determined to go, and if they showed us the paths across the mountains we
should leave them all the sooner than if we had to search for the trail, which I should remaiu to
do until found. Once making them believe that it lay with them to hasten our departure, their
eagerness to see us gone made them offer to guide us.
The Indians were at first very timid ; but before long they came 011 board in such numbers as
to be troublesome, bringing with them fruit, fish, and, indeed, anything that would find a purchaser.
February 21.—Went to the Indian village of Sassardi, to have an interview with the head-man.
On my way up the bay, the air being unusually clear, I had an excellent view of the mountain-range.
The valley, as described by Cullen, I am sure does not exist. Had a very successful interview
with the Indians. Their chief is one of the most intelligent and well-disposed that I have met ;
indeed, the traders call him the u bueno liombre." They told me the best path across to the Pacific
was over the Caledonia route, though the chief of this tribe had the day before declared that none
existed. They promised to send messengers to this chief to persuade him to give us guides.
This interview was the first successful talk I had had. I had finally succeeded in making them
acknowledge there was a path across, and to interest them in procuring guides. Hitherto I had
never been able to extract anything from them about their country, every question being met with
the Indian's usual stolidity.
February 25.—A number of Indians on board from the villages of Agla and Sassardi, with the
chief of the former. After much talk, he promised the next day to send me guides to point out
the trail across. Three days before he not only denied that there was any trail, but did not even
wish us to land 011 the beach, though their village, called Agla, is some four miles distant.
Preparations were immediately made for a reconnoissance in force, to start the following morn¬
ing, with seven days' provisions. Our force, including the marine-guard under Major Houston,
Lieutenants Goodrell and Allen, with officers, sailors, and macheteros, numbered about eighty-eight.
I proposed in this armed reconnoissance to ascertain the best position to commence and continue
our level-line ; to meet the Mountain Indians, from whom alone I expected resistance, treat with
them, and, at the same time, to display such a force as to intimidate them, had they any hostile
intentions against us ; to accustom a large body of our people to the annoyances of the country ;
and to do away with many false notions of danger from noxious reptiles and climatic influences.
A pace-traverse was to be made of our course, and barometrical observations taken at important
points. The daily ration per man was fourteen ounces of bread, one pound of bacon, three ounces
of coffee, four ounces of sugar, with one pound of tomato-soup every other day. Whatever might
be the custom of travelers with plenty of servants, where each person carries his own load every
extra pound is felt, and I sought the minimum weight to combine efficiency with lightness.
The equipment of this force, which was not materially varied afterward, was as follows: A breech-
loading rifle, with forty rounds of ammunition; seven days' provisions, as above described, in
knapsack and haversack ; an India-rubber blanket, also a woolen one ; one woolen overshirt ; one
pair cloth pants; one pair duck pants; two flannel undershirts; one pair flannel drawers; two pairs
of woolen socks; and one pair of shoes. The whole weighed not far from forty pounds.
My original intention, based upon inquiry at Panama, was for each man to carry his ham¬
mock, but it was found to make the load too heavy, and India rubber and woolen blankets were
substituted. Light shelters or ranchos are easily constructed by allowing an hour before dark for
this purpose, and in time our men became quite skillful in making themselves comfortable. Raised
platforms of bamboo was the common form of bed—not very soft ; but tired nature does not require
much wooing. Duck trowsers are the best to march in—not easily torn and quickly dried.
Flannel should be worn next to the skin, and every one should be required at night to change his
clothes and put 011 a dry suit to sleep in. A table-spoonful of whisky and two grains of quinine
were served to each man every morning. To these precautions, under Providence, I attribute the
INDIAN VILLAGE OF SASSARDI, CALEDONIA HARBOR:
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
15
wonderful good health of the command while on the Isthmus. Exposed to constant wet, most
fatiguing labor, different regimen, not a dangerous case of fever occurred, though at times there
have been as many as one hundred and fifty men in the field, and many of them two months on
shore at a time. Shoes with canvas leggings have been found preferable to boots, which, by the
constant action of the water, become softened, run down at the side, and very inconvenient,
especially in slippery places.
Saturday, February 26.—The party landed at 7 a. m. on the beach near the Aglaseniqua River.
A mile and a half to the southward the Aglamate River empties into Caledonia Bay. There are a
few huts at its mouth, occupied by the Indians during the rainy season, and it was here they
had promised to meet us with their guides. Upon landing, a small party were detailed to remain
behind and carry forward the pace-traverse, while the main body proceeded with the guides. Upon
reaching the mouth of the Aglamate, no Indians were to be seen, though the recent tracks showed they
were not far off. My first impression was that they had deceived us ; but, after repeated hallooing
by our interpreter, we saw some faces peering out through the bushes on the opposite bank. They
were finally induced to come over, and proved to be those sent by their chief to guide us to
the neighborhood of their village. To give us as poor an idea as possible of the country, they led
us by the most difficult paths, wading the river breast-high, passing from one bank to the other.
Their distrust was never more strongly marked than on this occasion. They would insist upon my
going ahead alone, leaving a long interval between me and the main body; and, to prevent losing
the way, I had to make frequent halts. Finding the village much farther off than supposed, I put
a stop to this ridiculous mistrust by compelling the Indians, who were also gaining confidence, to
remain with the party. After marching three hours, we met the old chief, and surmised the village
was not far off, though invisible from the dense foliage. We halted for breakfast, and soon our
numerous fires were boiling the soldier's luxury, a pot of coffee. The old chief still showed a
reluctance to permit us to proceed ; but he was given to understand that, unless his people showed
us the right trail, some of ours might wander into his village. Their dread of a white man
seeing their women prevailed, and in a half-hour we proceeded, the old man accompanying us till
we were beyond the village. At 3 p. m. we reached the foot of the divide at the head-waters of
the Aglamate; and as the Indians assured us we could not cross before dark, I concluded to go into
camp, particularly as the surveying-party were a long distance behind.
Our first night's experience in camp was decidedly disagreeable. It came on to rain hard ;
the river rose and washed us out of our frail tenements, which, on the supposition that it was the
dry season, we had constructed close to the edge of the river, and the morning found us tired and
wet after a sleepless night. The surveying-party were still behind, and I did not like to move
over the mountains till they "were heard from. The greater part of Saturday was wasted in waiting
for tidings from them, until it became too late to cross the divide, when all hands went to work
constructing booths or ranches that should be water-tight, each one his own architect, and as yet
but little skilled in wood-craft; some were made of shelter-tents, others of India-rubber blankets,
others of boughs and palm-leaves. Our camp I named Rainy Hollow.
The Aglamate River, at whose head-waters we were encamped, runs though a narrow, fertile
valley between the dividing and secondary ranges, where are numerous plantations of plantain,
banana, pine apple, beans, Indian corn, and sugar-cane ; then around the base of Mount Agla, and
through marshy ground into the sea. Though during the rainy season it gave evidence of consid¬
erable depth and breadth, at this time it was seldom over 4 feet deep and 100 feet wide. The
Indian trail generally leads from bank to bank, crossing by fords over the rapids. The surveying
party being reported not far off, orders were given to strike camp in the morning.
Sunday, February 27.—A general order had been issued that no work should be done in the
expedition on Sunday; but, as our stock of provisions was small, and it was not known how far
we should have to go to meet the Mountain Indians, I deemed it best to cross the divide to-day.
Our guides refused to go any farther with us, but said we could not miss the trail, and that it would
be necessary to use our water sparingly, as no more would be found till on the other side. Our
march was taken up at 7 a.m., and with some curiosity, for the Indians had told us that we should find
it very difficult. We soon commenced to ascend the ridge, which was a spur jutting out from the
16-
DABIEN SHIP-CANAL.
main range. The panting and exhaustion of the men were evidence enough of the steepness of
the climb, had not my own senses given me a feeling of almost inability to proceed. Discarding
everything but arms and provisions, in about an hour we reached the summit, and a little farther on
we crossed a small stream, probably the Foreti, a tributary of the Sucubti, flowing to the southwest.
In some places the ridge over which the trail runs was but a few feet in width, with deep gorges on
each side, filled with an impenetrable growth, in the depths of which was heard the roaring of wild
animals. These gorges do not run through, but are separated by a backbone, as it might be called,
several hundred feet high. At 11 o'clock we reached the Sucubti, after a march of four hours.
Old soldiers declared they had had nothing to equal it during the war.
Crossing the divide, we had very heavy rain, and on the banks of the Sucubti had an illustration
of the sudden rise of these mountain-streams. When the advance reached its banks they crossed
knee-deep 5 ten minutes afterward, when I came up, the waters were breast-high, foaming and tearing
over the bowlders at not less than five miles an hour. Those who saw the first of this rise repre¬
sented that the water came, as it were, in one wave, so suddenly that some had barely time to rescue
their knapsacks on the bank. In the mean while, a tree had been felled on the opposite bank ; that,
falling across, assisted us in fording, which we were able to do after a delay of an hour, waiting for
the freshet to subside.
The Indian trail seemed to terminate here, and we accordingly followed down the bed of the
Sucubti ; progress was slow, the current being rapid and the stream filled with large rocks. The
river here winds between high hills, with all the signs of a mountainous country, and none of those
broad plains as described by some who pretend to have crossed on this route. The barometrical
measurement of the Sucubti, at the point we struck it, was 550 feet; the rapids were frequent, and
indicated a fall of not less than 40 feet per mile. Our experience thus far corroborates the reports
of Strain and Gisborne, and tends to throw still more doubt upon the assertions of Dr. Cullen, and
I consider the idea of canalizing the bed of the Sucubti in the upper part of its course as totally
impracticable. Its bed is too elevated, composed of hard rock, and three-fourths of the year it is
a rapid, though not, excepting in the rainy season, a deep stream. In the latter, however, the
signs on the bank indicate that the volume of water it throws out is immense. Ignorant of the
temper of the Mountain Indians, we took every precaution necessary in the presence of an enemy,
and a small advance-guard was kept ahead as scouts.
The march across the mountains had told heavily upon the men, and we went into camp at
3 p. m. It had rained constantly since the morning, and we were wet, cold, and hungry. Our
camp was prettily situated on a gravel beach, high, precipitous rocks on the opposite bank, cov¬
ered with moss and parasites. The trees on each bank were so interlaced as to give but a peep
here and there of the sky, which I wished might have been blue, but the dark masses overhead
gave little hope that the rain was going to give us a farewell.
In the afternoon a platoon of marines was sent down the river, but returned without seeing
any Indians, though a bundle of arrows was found neat camp. A strong guard was set at night,
and a picket some distance in advance on the Indian trail.
Monday, February 28.—This is the fourth day out, and though the provisions have lasted well,
considering we have not been accustomed to husband ,them, much of the bread has been injured
by wet and attrition. If our provisions had sufficed, I had intended pushing on to the Ohucuna-
qua ; but, beyond meeting the Sucubti Indians, nothing in particular would be gained, as our sur¬
veying-party would not more than reach the Sucubti. -
Broke camp at 7.30 a. m. and proceeded down the river. The trail was very faint, and, in
consequence, much time was lost in picking it up, as it led from one bank to the other. The rain had
made the walking very slippery, and the river-bed was filled with round, smooth stones, over which
it was both difficult and laborious to travel. One platoon of marines was kept in advance with
loaded rifles. Our progress was not over a mile an hour. About 11 o'clock came across fresh
tracks of Indians. Our interpreter cried out " Kuetti," (friends,) and shortly half a dozen made
their appearance opposite. A halt was ordered, and, in order not to alarm them, I crossed over alone
with our interpreter. These Indians were much like those on the coast, though they showed some
evidence at a past time of a mixture with other blood. They have not as intelligent features as
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
17
those we have met previously, and are more poorly clad. Their arms are the bow and poisoned
arrow, single and double barreled shot-guns, some of them with flint-locks. After a short conver¬
sation, during which I astonished them by dropping a metallic cartridge into the water and then
firing it, they left, promising to bring their head-man the next day. I offered to go to their village,
but this they would not consent to, saying it was too far off, and the road was very difficult. As it
was our policy to conciliate these people, and remove any signs of fear they might entertain for us,
for we were the first body of white men they had ever seen, I concluded to halt and go into camp.
It was the first sunny afternoon we had enjoyed, and soon all hands were busy constructing houses,
collecting fire-wood, fishing, and drying clothes. The Sucubti, as we followed it to-day, pursues
a tortuous course through a broken, mountainous country, the fall considerable, and the rapids
frequent.
Thursday, March 1.—Lieutenant Schulze and a party were sent in the morning to make a pace-
traverse of the river for a couple of miles down ; on their return they reported to have reached
an Indian village a mile and a half off, but did not go farther. This village was called, as the
Indians told us, Sucubti. A young Indian came into camp at 10 a. m., to conduct us to the interview
with his chief. I went down the river a half mile with a few officers and awaited his approach.
Before long some twenty-five Indians appeared on the opposite bank, all armed, and I was a little
surprised, as we had brought none ourselves, and thought that there might be treachery. There was
nothing to do but put on a bold face* and when they came over they manifested much apparent
friendship, shaking hands all round. The chief, being too old to walk, presently appeared in a
light canoe, called a u pit-pan," that is used for going over shoal water and rapids. He had an
intelligent countenance, and could not have been far from ninety. A desultory conversation ensued,
in which they were principally curious to know why we had come this far, when we were going to
leave, and as much as they could of my plans. They represented their country as impassable for
white men, the river deep and swift, and pretended utter ignorance to every question put to them.
1 told them that I had come to ask permission to pass through their grounds for the purpose of look¬
ing at the country, but could get no direct answer to my request. They manifested great fear of
us, are doubtless treacherous and cowardly, and would probably murder a small party ; but I have
no idea they will molest us, as we are well prepared, and, finding we do not meddle with their
property, they know enough of our strength not to provoke hostilities to their manifest injury.
This meeting was not as satisfactory as I could have wished, but it was a great point gained to
meet the chief with his tribe, and thus to remove, much of the suspicion they entertain for stran¬
gers. I was gratified at winning their confidence so far as to talk to them, instead of their run¬
ning away at our approach.
The object of this reconnoissance having been accomplished, we broke camp for our return at
2 p. m. Our return-trip was void of incident, and we reached the ships on the afternoon of March
3, after an absence of a week. We had had constant rain, had been wet from beginning to end, yet
not a man returned sick, and all were in fine spirits. The different pests of this wilderness had
been met with, but no accident had occurred, and much of the dread of these annoyances had been
removed.
A pace-traverse of our whole march had been made, and barometrical heights taken at
frequent intervals up to the Sucubti ; the position of its waters fixed, the height at the bottom of
the divide found to be 148 feet; the Sucubti, where we first met, 550 feet. This would do away with
the hope of any pass under this height. Our march being accurately mapped out and heights
ascertained, we have acquired a knowledge of the country sufficient to know where to commence
our main survey with the best prospects of success.
A party for the survey of the Washington River had started the day after our arrival, February
22. This is a small stream emptying into Caledonia Bay, and its head-waters stated by Cullen to
be but a short distance from the head-waters of the Sucubti. During the absence of the main party,
this survey had been continued under Lieutenant Hubbard. It was chained a distance of 20,000
feet, when the river forked, and both branches explored, and found to run up into the mountains
called the Sassardi range. Altitude at the forks by barometer, 380 feet. A course south 30° east
was then taken, and about 3,000 feet per day chained, passing over hills from 75 to 109 feet high,
H. Mis. 113 3
18
DABIEN SHIP-CANAL.
and through swamps in the valleys. The survey finally struck the Aglaseniqua River, which
empties into Caledonia Bay, and, proceeding down it, reached the mouth Saturday, March 5.
This survey, undertaken through the representations of Dr. Culleu, was productive of nothing
more than to show that the statements of this gentleman are not borne out by facts, and to help to
show the improbability of finding a pass.
Preparations were made immediately after my return from the interior for the main survey.
This survey will be carried up the Aglasaniqua for about three miles; search will then be made
along the foot of the divide for a pass, and the line carried over the mountains to the Pacific slope.
The experience gained in the recent reconnoissance convinced me that it would be impossible to
keep the surveying-party supplied with provisions by hand-labor. This party is necessarily large,
requiring an armed escort, a dozen macheteros, which, with telegraph-layers, cooks, &e., amount to
about fifty in number. The laborers, too, procured at Aspinwall have proved nearly worthless, not
more than half a dozen of the original number being worth retaining.
Tuesday, March 8.—Surveying-party No. 1 commenced operations at south end of base-line
this morning, under Lieutenant Schulze, assisted by Ensigns Collins and Eaton, Assistant Sul¬
livan directing surveying operations. At 1 o'clock got under way for Cartagena, to procure addi¬
tional laborers and donkeys for the transportation of stores.
Thursday, March 10.—Arrived at Cartagena last evening; called upon the governor, and
requested his aid in procuring laborers. He sent to the alcades in the vicinity ; but, after waiting
two days, received word that none were willing to go, as they believed it a trap to procure soldiers.
We finally procured sixteen from the town, at $20 per month and subsistence, which have since
generally proved excellent men. The same fear of the Darien Indians operated against us as in
Porto Bello in procuring men. Also purchased ten donkeys, at an average price of $35 apiece.
Thursday, March 17.—Arrived at Caledonia Bay this morning at 10 a. m. News from the
surveying-party not very cheering ; they had met with great difficulties, and their progress had
been slow. They will return on Saturday, when I shall start them afresh.
Monday, March 20.—Surveying-party No. 1 made another start this morning. They will pro¬
ceed up the Aglaseniqua River to the forks, a distance of two and a half miles from the beach,
and an altitude of 80 feet. From this point the country becomes very rough and hilly, rising to
an elevation of 200 feet within half a mile.
The several reconnoissanees made to the dividing-ridge comprise all the country within the
head-waters of the Aglamate, Aglasaniqua, and Washington Rivers, and settle definitely the ques¬
tion of there being no -pass. Our survey will therefore take a west by south course, the short¬
est line to the junction of the Sueubti and Chucunaqua Rivers, unless the difficulties presented com¬
pel me to adopt some other plan. The difficulties of surveying in this country have not been exag¬
gerated. The whole face of the land is broken by deep ravines, steep hill-sides ; the water-courses are
filled with large bowlders washed from the mountains ; and the banks are generally high. All this
can be overcome with time and patience, but the supplying of so large a party as is necessary fora
regular survey and its escort becomes a serious difficulty. Though the donkeys are of great
assistance—indeed, the provisions could not be transported without them—it is a severe task to
prepare a road even for these sure-footed animals. They carry a load of one hundred pounds, and
it is a curiosity to see them go down some places that it would be difficult for a person to go and
preserve his footing.
The telegraph-line has been carried forward with party No. 1, and keeps us in constant com¬
munication. The wire used is very light, weighing one hundred pounds to the mile, but its trans¬
portation, coupled with our provisions, increases materially our work. Light as this wire is,
further experience showed us it was not adapted to this work, excepting in the dry season.
Branches falling upon it, destroy the insolation, and on the San Bias route it was so frequently out
of order that I abandoned its construction beyond a certain distance. An insulated wire should
be used in explorations of this kind ; it is equally light, and can be run along the ground by a
couple of men, or laid on the bed of rivers. The ease with which it is carried out, the certainty at
all times of communication, renders it more valuable and cheaj)er in the end, though the first cost
is considerably greater.
COMMANDER SKLFRIDGK ON 1RS HHTl'RX RK('0XN'AISSAN('K INTO THE INTERIOR OK DARIEX.
DxlBIEN SHIP-CANAL,
19
Surveying-party No. 1 cut about 7,000 feet on the course west by south, when the ground became
impassible for chaining and leveling; frequent offsets have to be made to avoid ravines too steep
to climb, so that not more than 1,000 feet per day were made on the course. The construction
of a path for donkeys became under these circumstances totally out of the question; I therefore
abandoned it, and ordered the survey to be recommenced from the forks of the Aglasoniqua, con¬
tinued along the foot of the divide, and to cross the mountains at the point nearest to the head¬
waters of the Sucubti.
I considered it an essential point of this survey that the height by spirit-level of this river above
the sea should be obtained. This has accordingly been done ; the level was carried accurately over
the mountains that form the divide to the Sucubti, about three-quarters of a milebelow where the first
party struck it. This work was performed by Sub-Assistant Merinden under great difficulties ; in
many places the ascent being so steep as to compel the surveyors to sustain themselves by the
neighboring trees. The height of the Sucubti was found to be 553 feet. This elevation has an im¬
portant bearing, and might be said to nearly decide itself the impracticability of the Darien route.
In a country as rugged and mountainous as the one to be surveyed, where the undergrowth is so dense
as to render it impossible for the surveyor to have any knowledge of the country except as he
advances step by step, the most practical as well as the most expedient method is to survey
up the several water-courses; these, presenting the lowest depressions of the country they drain,
give us a map with the smallest elevations, from which we can select those best adapted for a
canal. The height, 553 feet, of the Sucubti, dissipates all idea of a pass, for, were there such, this
river would flow to the Atlantic instead of the Pacific, and pricks the bubble of Dr. Cullen's
Darien route \pth its highest elevation of 200 feet. The Sucubti, with its tributaries, the Asnati
and Napsati, drain all the country through which a canal would pass from Caledonia Bay to the
Chucunaqua, and its bed is the lowest depression to be found in all this region.
The mountain-divide varies from 1,000 to 1,500 feet in altitude. The head-waters of the
Sucubti are not above G00 feet, and then an insignificant stream ; so, even with locks, a tunnel
would be necessary. But the supply of water in the dry season is entirely inadequate for us to
think of making use of this route through their medium. There remained but one point to be
obtained before the Darien route could be pronounced impracticable, and that was the length of
tunnel connecting an altitude of 160 feet on each side of the divide. I take this height as the
starting-point for a tunnel, because, adding to it 30 feet, the depth of the proposed canal, tunneling
would be less expensive than open cutting at an altitude of 190 feet. It became necessary,
therefore, to carry on a series of careful barometrical measurements down the Sucubti to the
junction with the Chuncunaqua, to give us the lowest depressions of this region, and to determine
approximately the length of tunnel. Had the latter been found of a reasonable length, the
leveling would have been carried on and the precise point obtained. To be confident that my
barometer was giving correct results, I caused a series of measurements to be taken along the
level-line, and the altitudes were found to have a maximum variation of never more than 20 feet.
It had been my original intention to have crossed the Isthmus with a party. But apart from
the fact that results had shown us that the question of a canal was to be settled by the survey of the
region east of the Chuncunaqua, the Nyack, the vessel ordered to co-operate with us, had been
detained on the south coast, and I had at this time no intelligence of her whereabouts.
Acting on the above views, but uncertain of the temper of the Mountain Indians, I ordered
the whole marine-guard to be prepared, under Major Houston, to escort a small surveying-party
down the Sucubti. Assistant J. A. Sullivan was placed in charge of the survey, Lieutenant
Schulze was intrusted with the observations, and Ensign Collins and Mr. Carson accompanied the
expedition. To the latter were given the barometrical observations. The standard barometer on
shore at the observatory was taken in the absence of this party every half-hour, so that observa¬
tions might be almost simultaneous.
Monday, April 4.—The marines left this morning for the Sucubti, with four days' provisions,
and four days' more for the whole party were sent with them on the donkeys, so that the command
was fully equipped for seven days.
The whole force, numbering fifty-three persons, left the camp on the Sucubti at 8 a. m., Tues¬
day. A short distance below the spot reached in the first reconnoissance, we were met by several
20
DAR1EN SHIP-CANAL.
Suciibti Indians, who offered to guide us. They did it with the duplicity and unfriendliness that
this tribe have always manifested in their intercourse with us, conducting the party through the
worst places near the bed of the river, while there were good trails, plantations, and huts on the
left bank ; but they obstinately insisted upon our remaining on the right bank, and it was thought
better not to offend them. At 4 p. m. encamped on a gravel beach, having marched eight and a
half miles.
Wednesday, April 6.—Started at 6.30 a. m. About twenty Sucubti Indians, most of them
unarmed, arrived, and told us they had been sent by their chief to guide us. Four or five kept
ahead with the advanced guard, some in the center, and the remainder in the rear. They kept
close watch upon our movements, and in the morning the tracks in the vicinity of our camp showed
that we were kept under a close espionage. At 10 o'clock were met by another deputation, headed
by one we called " Jim," who could speak a little Spanish. Jim was told we wished to go to the
junction of the Sucubti and Chucunaqua, but he peremptorily refused, saying, "No, no." But as
the party came up and he had counted thirty-five, he turned *ound and in an amiable manner offered
to go with us. He took a pretty fair road, near villages, through plantations, and even through
houses. Most of the latter, were deserted, but here and there were a few men, who greeted us
with the usual "Nuetti." At 4 o'clock we encamped, having marched twelve and a half miles,
passing four villages and several isolated houses.
The Sucubtis have selected their sites with a great deal of judgment, free from mosquitoes?
garrapatoes, and sand-flies. Their plantations of plantain, banana, and cocoa are numerous, and
beautifully located on high ground. Their villages contain from twenty to thirty houses, clean,
airy, and well-built. Each village has a sub-chief, but the whole are under one .great chief, the
same old man who met us on our first march. Their whole number is not less than a thousand,
and they can probably muster two hundred warriors—a formidable number to meet in this wilder¬
ness, whose intricacies form so many places of ambush, had we not succeeded in conciliating them.
Thursday, April 7.—Took up our march at 6.30 a. m., the Indian Jim and others with us, who
had come into camp shortly after daylight. One of the marines shot another private by accident
in the arm, and he was left behind in camp. The Indians were very much surprised that the affair
was taken so coolly, and two or three ran off to tell their chief. About 9 a. m. we struck the river
again, and the Indians left us. Previous to leaving they gave us to understand that to-morrow,
pointing when the sun would be near the zenith, we should reach the Chucunaqua. As it after¬
ward proved, the Indians meant to-day.
At half past 10 the advance struck the junction of the Sucubti and another river. Appearances
were that this river flowed into the Sucubti, rather than the reverse. Halt w7as made for dinner,
and careful observations made with the barometer. Uncertain somewhat that this was the Chu¬
cunaqua, it was determined to continue on. The Indians style this river the Ana, and the two
together form the Chucunaqua. At half past 2 o'clock we forded the La Paz; this was the deepest
river we had met, the water coming up to our arm-pits, and obliging us to carry our ammunition
and provisions on our heads. Several bungo-trees full of monkeys were seen, as many as twenty
or thirty in a tree ; some were shot, and proved a pleasant and much-needed repast. At 3 o'clock
went into camp, having marched eight and a half miles.
Friday, April 8.—Broke camp at half past 6 o'clock. Eugenio, a machetero, was bitten during
the night by a scorpion or tarantula, and his leg and foot became so swelled that we were forced
to leave him behind. At 4 o'clock went into camp. Passed a miserable night, tormented by mos¬
quitoes and sand-flies.
Saturday, April 9.—Started down the right bank of the river. Left behind nine men who
were shoeless. Cut through 5,000 feet, a dense grové of mangrove ; found foot-prints of Indians all
along the river-bank. At noon, while crossing the river, our barometer was broken. After dinner,
in consequence of this accident and our provisions running low, we took up our return-march ;
the spot reached was the junction of the Tupuganti with the Chucunaqua.
Sunday, April 10.—Another sleepless night, on account of insects. A number of the men
were shoeless; cut up shelter-tents, haversacks, &c., to supply the need. At 7 o'clock started on
our march, and at 10 o'clock came up with the machetero Eugenio, who was sufficiently recovered
SURVEYING PARTY AT WORK, SUCUBTI RIVER.
DAEIEN SHIP-CANAL.
21
to keep up with the rear-guard. At half past 2 struck the mouth of the La Paz, a deep, sluggish
stream, muddy water, muddy bottom, and high banks. At 5 o'clock went into camp ; the x>rovis-
ions running low, the men were allowed to collect wild plantains. Henceforth our meals consisted
of plantains, bacon, and coffee, the bread being about all gone.
Monday, April 11.—Broke camp at half past 6. At 10 o'clock, at the junction of the Chucuna-
qua and Sucubti, met two Asnati Indians, and asked them to guide us, but they declined,
saying a few miles farther on we should meet some of the Sucubtis. After wandering a long time,
losing our way, we arrived at camp No. 2. Here we found the wounded marine and his attendant,
whom the Indians had treated with respect, giving them provisions, but had told them if we did
not return that night they would have to leave in the morning. At half past 1, no Indians having
appeared, we continued up the river, but shortly met four canoes of them. They shook hands all
around, and intimated we were to follow them. Soon two others were met; these we followed
by a very good trail, through a beautiful country, x>assing plantations and villages. At half past
4 went into camp. While collecting grass for a bed, one of the macheta-men was bitten by a
tarantula.
Tuesday, April 12.—Called all hands at early daylight ; but, long before we had our breakfast,
Jim and a companion came into camp. They showed a vast deal more alacrity in showing us out
of their country than the way through it, the trail the whole way on our return being easy walking.
We broke up camp, and proceeded up the river, and before long were joined by some twenty more
Indians. We told Jim that we were anxious to get back to the ships, and he took us through
beautiful plantations and villages, so that by noon we were at camp No. 1, our first stopping-place.
About two miles below this point we found a bag of bacon intact, that had been left upon our
march down. While passing through their villages not a woman was seen ; and in houses apx>ar-
ently deserted, on looking back, twenty or thirty Indians would be seen, showing how completely
they could conceal themselves in the jungle. As an example of how closely we were watched by
these people, when we reached the boundary of the Sucubtis, about a mile below camp No. 1, Jim
wished us to halt, saying there were two men yet in his country. Our men were strung along in
single file a quarter of a mile, and sure enough, after waiting ten minutes, two macheteros came
up. Took dinner at camp No. 1, and at 3 p. m. passed the mouth of the Asnati, where good ob¬
servations for time were taken, and went into camp at 5 o'clock. Had a very scanty supper of
wild plantains and coffee.
Wednesday, April 13.—Broke camp at the usual hour ; had to go without breakfast, as we con¬
sumed the last of our provisions the evening before. At 10 o'clock every one had reached our
main camp on the Sucubti, and ate the first hearty meal we had had for three days. At noon the
whole camp was broken up, the material placed on the donkeys, and all hands reached the beach
in the afternoon. Nearly all were shoeless and worn out, but most every one in good health.
The telegraphers came in the next day with the wire that they had taken up, and the survey
of the Harien route was completed.
This reconnoissance, undertaken to ascertain the height of the junction of the Ohucunaqua
and Sucubti, and points along the latter river, as also their proper positions, had been completely
successful. Positions were obtained with the sextant and chronometer-watch, compared before
and after return, whose walking-rate had previously been obtained ; heights by one of Green's
adjusting mercurial barometers, and a similar standard was carefully noted at the observatory
* every half-hour. Observations of barometer were taken at all kalting-x>laces, and at the camps
night and morning, and none noted till the instrument had been suspended forty minutes, as this
lapse of time experiment had shown necessary for the mercury to acquire the temperature of the
surrounding air. With all these precautions, with previous careful experiments along the level-
line, in which the extreme variations never amounted to more than 10 feet above or below the
height by level, I have perfect confidence in all our barometrical heights to within 20 feet.
The whole course of the Sucubti was paced. The junction of this stream and the Chueuna#qua
is not correct in longitude, and placed two miles too far to the south, and the general course of the
Sucubti is much out.
The height of the junction has been generally laid down at about 90 feet, but we found it to be 146
22
DAMEE SHIP-CAE AL.
feet. The heights obtained were as follows: camp on the Sucubti, reached by level-line, 553 feet;
heights by barometer, three and one-fourth miles below this camp, 427 feet ; one and three-quar¬
ter miles farther, 400 feet; camp Eo. 1, two and one-fourth miles farther, 301 feet; six miles far¬
ther, camp Eo. 2, 168 feet; three and three-fourths miles, or the junction of the Sucubti and Chu-
cunaqua, 146 feet; down the latter river to the junction of the La Paz, or two and one-fourth miles,
120 feet; five and one-fourth miles farther, 99 feet; and two one-fourth miles further, 90 feet.
Mount Deseada, placed on all maps at the junction of the Chucunaqua and Sucubti, does not
exist ; there is, however, a hill, about 120 feet high, at the mouth of the La Paz.
Upon the return of this expedition, the following general order was issued to them :
United States Steamer Nipsic,
April 13, 1870.
To the officers, seamen, and marines composing surveying-party No. 1 :
Upon your return from the arduous duties of the past two months, your commanding officer deems it a proper
moment to congratulate you upon the success you have achieved. You have opened to the world an almost unknown
wilderness; you have procured information that others before you have sought for and failed.
That this has not been done without great sacrifice on your part, your commander is well aware ; hut he has
watched with pride the patience with which you have endured want and hardship, the perseverance with which you
have overcome the obstacles that surrounded you, and the zeal with which you have seconded his wishes in promoting
the objects of the expedition.
Still greater efforts he may require of you, but he knows you will meet them in the same spirit as you have over¬
come the past, and upon your return to your homes you will all remember with pride the part you have borne in the
expedition of 1870.
THOS. O. SELFRIDGE,
Commander, commanding Darien Expedition.
As previously remarked, tbe country in the vicinity of Sassardi Tillage, about ten miles north¬
east of our starting-point on these previous surveys, presents a depression toward the northwest.
Leaving the Guard in Caledonia Bay to prosecute the hydrographie surveys, and to attend to
the parties in the field, the Eipsic left on the afternoon of March 21 for Sassardi Harbor, the
northern extremity of Caledonia Bay. In several interviews with the Indians of this vicinity,
whose chief was the most kindly disposed of any that I have met, I succeeded in so far winning
their friendship as to obtain a guide across their country to the Morti River. This line, which had
never been traversed by a white man, follows the valley of the Sassardi, crosses the divide, and
follows the Morti to its junction with the Chucunaqua. It was undertaken on the supposition of
90 feet as the altitude of the mouth of the Sucubti; the unexpected altitude of the latter, 160 feet,
was not known until the level had been carried over the divide to the Morti.
It was a difficult task to keep two parties in the field operating on lines widely separated.
But the lateness of the season rendered it incumbent upon me to finish, if possible, this whole
region ; which work was satisfactorily accomplished, though it greatly tasked all hands.
Wednesday, March 22.—Party Eo. 2, from the Eipsic, Lieutenant Hubbard in .charge, with
Ensign Jasper, Assistant Mossman, of the Coast Survey, directing operations, and Major Houston,
who volunteered to command the small escort of marines considered necessary, commenced opera¬
tions on shore, accompanied by Dennis, an intelligent Indian, as guide. The total strength of the
party amounted to five officers, eight sailors, eleven marines, and seven macheteros. Their orders
were to follow the Sassardi trail, explore the gorges of the divide for a pass, and carry their levels
over it to the Morti.
The favorable attitude of the Sassardi Indians enabled me to materially reduce the military '
escort as compared with the other survey, and the working-force was kept at the lowest possible
figure. The regular engineers level had been used on the Darien route, but here we used a gradi-
enter, much lighter than the level, and consequently worked more quickly. At first the courses
were taken from the readings of the arc, with occasional reference to the magnetic north; but the
labor of plotting was so much increased that the surveyor's compass was afterward substituted.
This party was kept supplied by a party of thirty men leaving the Eipsic every five days
with stores. The face of the country presents a very broken appearance from the sea ; no hills
over 600 feet high ; and as the maps placed^the head-waters of the Morti within four miles of the
beach, I felt assured of good prospects of finding a pass between the different hills. The sequel
will show how much I was mistaken.
INDIAN HOUSE, SASSARDI RIVER.
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
23
The country is quite level for the first mile from the beach, and is probably overflown during
the rainy season. It then rises in a gentle slope along the valley of the Sassardi, which, for
the first three miles after leaving the coast, is of unsurpassed fertility, and might be called the
garden-spot of the Isthmus ; beautiful groves, here and there large plantations of bananas,
plantains, sugar-cane, cocoa, cassava, and a kind of bean much grown by the Indians. It was
refreshing, after our work upon the Darien route, to come upon this beautiful valley. In the center
of the valley of the Sassardi there is a large village, its houses well built, airy, and clean, with
canoe-communication with the village by the sea. The Sassardi tribe had always been very
friendly ; they seemed to have lost much of the Indian's habitual suspicion ; numbers visited the
surveying-camp daily with fruits of all kinds, and I made use of them frequently to carry notes to
the front, which they did gladly.
Three miles in a direct line the valley of the Sassardi terminates with an altitude of 44 feet,
and the river commences a tortuous course through isolated hills, varying from 300 to 600 feet At
this point, by the maps in our possession, should be found the head-waters of the Morti, flowing
toward the Pacific, and these hills, from the data we had and the appearance from the sea, should
form the divide. It was this great depression that caused me to hope the best results from this
line, which our survey afterward bitterly disappointed. The Sassardi, continuing a winding course
over a bed of rock for a distance of six miles from the village, and an altitude of 247 feet, divides
at the foot of a high range, and its two branches run respectively to the south and west till they
lose themselves in the mountains. This range, unexpectedly met with, and invisible from the sea
on account of intervening hills, is the Sassardi range that skirts the shore of Caledonia Bay, but
here thrown back so as really to give the appearance of subsiding into the hills that were sup¬
posed to be the true divide.
Friday, April 1.—The survey was carried to the foot of the dividing-ridge, having surveyed
54,000 feet in nine days, with many drawbacks from floods and rain. A pace-traverse was made of
the two branches as they run along the foot of the divide, but no signs of a lower elevation dis¬
covered. Disappointed in finding the divide of a much higher elevation than supposed, I had still
hopes that this line might be found practicable with a tunnel.
The leveling was carried over the divide to the Morti, and an elevation of .289 feet obtained
at a point about eight miles from its mouth. Its current appeared less rapid than the Sucubti, and
its reaches longer. The work of leveling over the divide was slow and laborious, not only on
account of the steepness, but because the party were obliged to go forward and back daily from
the camp at the foot of the mountains, and was finished in eight days.
Hp to the present this party had been supplied by hand, some thirty men going every five days.
This took all our available men, as the distance had become so great as to require two days in the
transit ; and as the men had to carry food for themselves for three days, more became necessary
than at first. My intention now was to establish a depot of provisions at the foot of the divide,
which supply I should keep up with our crews, while the donkeys would transport the supplies to
the party on the other side. A road had therefore to be constructed from the beach across the
mountains to the Morti, and the telegraph-line carried to the same point, ready to go forward with
the surveyors. A large house was constructed, and inclosed in a stockade, that a small force might
defend what might prove a temptation to the Indians to destroy, knowing that we were dependent
upon them to prosecute the survey. These preparations had been finished about the time of the
return of the party from the Chucunaqua. The knowledge we required in this reconnoissance placed
our survey on the Morti in an entirely different light, and was a death-blow to a line that had started
with such fine appearances of success.
The Morti empties into the Chucunaqua seven miles above the Sucubti ; this, however, may
be an error, and perhaps not more than five. The barometrical height of the mouth of the Sucubti
being 160 feet, supposing an error of 20 feet, we will call it 140 feet. Allowing the same rate of
fall as was found in the Chucunaqua for the same distance, the height of the junction of the latter
and the Morti would be 160 feet. This is no doubt under than over, for I have not only allowed the
extreme error ever found in our barometrical heights, but the elevation would naturally increase
more rapidly as we ascend toward the sources of the Chucunaqua.
24
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
During tlie latter part of our stay on the Sassardi line rumors were frequent that were to be
attacked by the Chueunas, the most warlike of the interior tribes, in numbers varying from eighty
to five hundred. So great was the trepidation of the Sassardi Indians that they abandoned their
interior village, and sent a deputation of their second head-chief and others to persuade the Chucunos
to be friendly. This party returned from this mission on the 24th ; the old chief came on board the
next day, for the first time, to tell me that they had failed in making friends of the Chucunas, and
they were determined to attack us.
I had made up my mind that further surveys upon the Sassardi line were useless; but as I did
not care to abandon our position about the time of these rumors, I re-enforced the party at the front,
and went up in person. Nothing came of these alarms, however ; the Indians no doubt saw that
we were fully prepared, and it was not their policy to attack us. Except in a temporary ambush,
they would have had a sorry time with our breech-loaders, and one fight would have left them no
desire to renew the experiment.
CONCLUSIONS UPON THE DARIEN AND MORTI ROUTES.
Darien.—This route, starting from Caledonia Bay, proceeds westward to the vicinity of the
junction of the Sucubti and Chucunaqua; thence to the junction of the Lara and Savanna ; and
down the latter to the Pacific. Its noble harbors, and the assertions of Dr. Cullen, but partially
contradicted by the meager reports of Gisborne and Strain, required that this route should be
surveyed—a route celebrated in history as the path by which Balboa in 1513 crossed and beheld
for the first time the mighty Pacific ; the road of the buccaneers in their raids upon the Spanish^
settlements of the west coast; the spot where perished the ill-fated Scottish expedition of Patterson ;
the wilderness which witnessed the heroic and disastrous sufferings of Lieutenant Strain and his
party. The appearance from the sea does not certainly indicate any low depressions on this line.
The hills rise almost from the sea-shore, and about five miles inland stretches the dividing range
without a break from north to south, until lost in the broken country of the Sassardi. The country
between the divide and the sea has been cut up with our lines, and the foot of the former thoroughly
explored for a pass.
There are three cardinal points that a survey for a canal-route is called upon to search for and
determine : first, whether from low elevations or mountain-pass an open-cut ship-canal can be
constructed ; secondly, in the absence of a pass, how long a tunnel may be necessary; and, thirdly,
whether there is a sufficient supply of water to admit the employment of locks. We will apply
these tests to the Darien line.
The elevation of the Sucubti near its sources was found, by an accurate line of levels, to be 553
feet. This elevation, without any other of the negative data acquired, dissipates any idea of a
pass under this altitude. As to a system of lockage, three and a half miles from the beach we
have an altitude of 250 feet, and no water but the insignificant streams of the Aglamate and
Aglaseniqua, while the lowest point of the divide is not under 1,000 feet, and the Sucubti at an
elevation of 600 feet is but little more than a mountain-brook.
As to tunneling, upon the general principle that over an altitude of 190 feet this method is
cheaper than open cutting, we find upon an inspection of the map, admitting an error of 20 feet
in our barometrical measurements, a distance of eleven miles between that altitude on the Atlantic
and the same on the Pacific, or, in other words, a tunnel of this length would be necessary.
Besides, for both of these lines there is the Ohucunaqua to be crossed by an expensive aqueduct,
and a divide still farther westward, though of small dimensions. For these reasons, arrived at
after careful investigation,-I consider the Darien route entirely impracticable for a ship-canal.
- Morti.—This line, starting from Sassardi harbor, follows the direction of the river of the same
name; then across the divide to the Morti ; thence down that river, and westward in a direct line to
the Savanna River, and down the latter to the Pacific. Until an interior divide had been discov¬
ered, invisible from the sea, the position of the sources of the Morti on the Spanish maps, only four
miles from the sea, and the country at that distance broken into detached hills and low ridges, gave
good indications of a low divide or a pass. The true divide proved to be 1,148 feet in height, and
the Morti where the level-line met it 289 feet. Though all our searches failed to find any indi¬
cations of a pass, the height of the Morti would preclude one under 300 feet.
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
25
A system of lockagej is not applicable to this route, there being no streams affording an
adequate supply of water. As to tunneling, taking the altitude of the junction of the Chucunaqua
and Morti, as previously deduced, at 160 feet, the distance from this point to a similar altitude is
nine miles.
From these facts it is evident that this route is equally with the Darien impracticable for
canalization.
As will have been seen, the obstacles encountered were such as to decide the imprac¬
ticability of these routes without continuing the surveys to the Pacific, an operation requiring time
and money, without in any way affecting the general result.
That the Department maybe assured we have not arrived at these conclusions without patient
and careful inquiry, I will add, in the prosecution of these surveys twenty-two miles of leveling
have been run, thirty-two miles chained, sixty-nine miles of paced reconnoissances made, with
barometrical observations, besides the country cut up with donkey-paths for the transportation of
our supplies.
SURVEY OF THE SAN BLAS ROUTE. (Plates XII and XIII.)
The expedition, having finished its work in the vicinity of Caledonia Bay, sailed on the after¬
noon of April 20 for San Bias. The gulf of this name extends in a northeast and southwest direction
some twenty miles, and is about ten miles in extreme breadth. It is formed by the Cape of San
Bias and the outlying islands of the Muletas]Archipelago, and is a most magnificent bay, with deep
passages, fine anchorage, and perfectly protected from the north winds in the dry season. In the
northwest corner is an inner harbor formed by a circle of islands, with a passage leading into
it a mile wide, capable of holding easily all the shipping that an immense traffic might demand
of it. This harbor, magnificent for all purposes required as the great terminus of an interoceanic
canal, was sufficient in itself to attract attention to this portion of the Isthmus. Besides, too, the
configuration of the mountains, as seen from the sea, presented the appearance of a low pass in the
secondary range, while the shortness of the transit, twenty-six miles from the Atlantic to ship-
navigation on the Bayamo River, gave strong hopes that a canal might be constructed within the
limits of a profitable enterprise. Some previous attempts had been made to explore this line by a
Mr. Hopkins, acting for the Colombian government, but fears of the Indians seem to have deterred
them from penetrating into the interior.
In 1864 Mr. Kelley, a public-spirited citizen of New York, with whom were associated Messrs.
Butler and.Merrill, sent out a party of engineers to explore this route, beginning operations from
the Pacific. They made an accurate survey with the spirit-level to the head-waters of the Mar-
moni. From this point, crossing the divide, their survey, probably from lack of time and want of
instruments, became quite inaccurate. They returned and reported the line feasible, with a tunnel
seven miles long.
The period of rains was at hand when we arrived at San Bias ; but I was anxious, if possible,
to collect sufficient data either to condemn this line or sufficiently favorable to warrant a further
survey the next season. From the Atlantic to the Pacific slope of the dividing-range was an
unknown wilderness, never, to my knowledge, penetrated by white men. Beyond the memory of
the oldest Indians, the interior about the Mandinga River had not been inhabited, though the
traditions of the tribe place their ancestors in the interior, like those upon the Darien route, from
whence they came to the sea-shore, being healthier for their children and more convenient to pro¬
cure food. These Indians now inhabit the islands in the Gulf of San Bias, cultivating plantations
on the various small streams running down the Atlantic slope.
The health of the expedition, though good, had been much impaired by the continued exposure
of the past season, and its strength and efficiency weakened to a like extent. The absence of
Indians, however, would enable me to reduce materially the size of the parties, and by frequent
reliefs I was hopeful in being able to keep up a rapid work' without too great a strain upon our
resources.
The first operations were the measurements of a base-line, and the selection of a point for
observatory and telegraph station. The river Mandinga was not laid down at all upon some maps,
H. Mis. 113 4
26
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
and upon others it is confounded with the Carti, a river some ten miles from it. It is the largest
river on the Atlantic slope between the Chagres and the Atrato, draining with its three branches
an area of not less than three hundred square miles. The absence of a river of this size still
further shows the general inaccuracy of the maps of the Isthmus. Search had to be made for the
mouth of the Mandinga, which was not easily found, being completely hidden in a dense growth of
mangroves. Another mouth was discovered a few days afterward, the two branches uniting some
three miles above and forming the main stream, which, to my surprise, I found navigable for boats
some ten miles ; this distance by river, however, and not in a direct line.
No part of the Isthmus we liave yet visited presents an amount of level land equal to the
bottom-land of the Mandinga. In the distance is a deep cut in the mountains, the bottom of which
could not be seen on account of intervening hills ; and altogether we were in the best of spirits,
with the hope that the long-wished-for route would be found in this place.
Saturday, April 23.—Started the first party on the survey of the Mandinga. A reconnoissance
had found the land up to the forks not more than three or four feet above the sea; and as the
camping-ground in this locality would have been both unhealthy and uncomfortable, from the
myriads of mosquitoes and sand flies, besides other pests, with which the jungle abounded, the
surveyors returned on board at night.
The country for a mile and a half was one vast swamp and cane-brake, the latter so interlaced
with vines that, after cutting a wide swath, it had to be jumped upon to obtain a vista for the
level. The progress of the party was in consequence slow, not over 3,000 feet per day. In the
mean while a camp was constructed at the forks, shelters erected, provisions sent up in boats, the
donkeys carried up, and all made ready for a forward start.
Thursday, April 28.—Eaining very heavily for five hours. Between the beach and the forks
it was almost an impassable morass, and from this time forward for a month we had constant rain,
to an extent unknown before to the oldest residents of Panama and Aspinwall. This caused great
hardship and inconvenience in prosecuting the survey, frequently interrupting it for days at a
time, and at one period became so severe that it seemed probable that the survey would have to
be abandoned from sheer inability to transport provisions. The Mandinga overflowed its banks;
the bottom-land became a vast swamp; bridges were washed away; small streams became rivers,
only to be crossed by swimming; and cases happened where the party were obliged to pass the
night in the trees, the water rising so rapidly as to drive them from their beds.
Lieutenant Hitchcock relieved Lieutenant Hubbard with a party from the Guard, Saturday,
April 29. This party, commencing on the following Monday, had a week of fine weather, and did
admirable work, reaching as high as 7,000 feet of cutting in one day, and averaging 5,000 feet per
day. At the end of the week they had reached a point seven miles from the forks by the river,
and in a direct line six and a half miles from the starting-point, with an altitude of 62 feet. The
country now commenced to present the same broken features as at Caledonia Bay, spurs running
down to the river, making deep ravines, with sides so steep as to make it difficult at times to find
a foot-hold. The river had swelled so that it was no longer possible to pass up its bed, or even to
ford it, and making the operation of leveling extremely laborious. The following week, from these
causes and heavy rains, not more than two and a half miles were made, and in the last mile the
elevation jumped from 90 to 170 feet, including two cascades, one 30 and one 18 feet perpendicular
fall. These, with the rugged country beyond and the steepness of the divide, entirely explode the
old tradition concerning this route, that the Indians used to sell at Chepo, on the Pacific, in the
afternoon, fish caught the preceding day in the Atlantic.
Monday, May 16.—Lieutenant Hubbard with fresh men was sent to relieve Lieutenant Hitch¬
cock's party, who had been absent two weeks. Assistant J. A. Sullivan assumed charge of the
leveling, and I am much indebted to this gentleman for the perseverance and skill with which he
kept at the front and carried the leveling over the divide to the head-waters of the Marmoni. Mr.
Hubbard was also assisted by Ensign Moser and Mr. Bowditch, mineralogist.
For the two days previous it had rained constantly, and this party, attempting to ascend the
river in boats, found the current so strong as to sweep them down-stream in spite of their oars.
They returned and started over-land, wading for over half a mile up to their waists in mud, and
INDIAN SETTLEMENT, BAY OF SAN BLAS-
DABIEN SHIP-CANAL
27
reached the forks at noon. Lieutenant Goodrell, who had gone up to repair the donkey-road,
returned to the ship to report that communication was cut off with the front ; that Lieutenant
Hubbard's party was surrounded by water ; that all the bridges were, swept away, and the country
for a mile from the forks overflown, with from 2 to 6 feet of water upon it. The donkeys on their
last trip with provisions had been pretty much used up from their exertions to get through the
mire, and it was evident that they would be of no more use this year. These animals, capable of
carrying a load of a hundred pounds over the worst mountain-roads, are helpless in soft ground,
into which they sink up to their haunches, and in which, after a few flounders, they give up unless
helped out. Prospects looked gloomy. The party at the front were on their last day's provisions,
communication with them cut off, and had the rain lasted a day longer I should have been obliged
to discontinue operations. Fortunately the rain subsided and the current of the Mandinga slack¬
ened, so that I was able to send up two weeks' provisions in boats as far as camp No. 2* Prom
hence they were transported to camp No. 4 by hand, the latter point being made the depot. The
surveying-party were reduced to the lowest possible minimum 5 the laying of the telegraph was
discontinued beyond camp No. 4; Lieutenant Allen, of the marines, was placed in charge of depot
and transportation of provisions ; every one was sent to the ships not actually needed, and the
strictest economy enjoined in the consumption of provisions.
The heavy rains of the past week had rendered it very doubtful whether we should be able to
hold on long enough to cross the divide with our survey. At any moment we were liable to be
stopped and compelled to retire. Anxious to have some knowledge of the head-waters of the Man¬
dinga and the height of the valley between the divide and the second range, I ordered Ensign
Moser and Mr. Bowditch to prepare for a six days' reconnoissance. These officers, taking with
them a sailor and a machetero, entered into their task with enthusiasm and alacrity. They left
camp No. 4, carrying their provisions on their backs, and from the head of the line of survey chained
a distance of six and a half miles, taking observations every night and morning. They followed
the bed of the river, as they had not the force to cut their way through the thickets. They found
the Mandinga again divided after reaching the valley back of Mount Grant, one branch flowing from
the southward, the other from the westward. They followed the latter, or larger stream, until their
provisions were nearly exhausted. Here it was still a large stream, 100 feet wide, flowing from
the northwest, the elevation by barometer 434 feet. The valley through which it flows was very
narrow, high mountain-spurs jutting out to the water's edge, first on one side then on the other,
while in the bends, judging from the density of growth, the soil must have been of unsurpassed
fertility. No sign of a break in the mountain-chain was observed, and it was evident the sources
of the Mandinga were in the range that, crossing the Isthmus from Panama, terminates on the
sea-coast, separating them from those of the Ohagres. While these surveys were in progress my
attention had been called to the Nercalugua, a river emptying into the Gulf of San Bias, a few
miles to the southeast of the mouths of the Mandinga. Prom the topography of the valley of
this river I was led to hope that it would show a lower mean level than the Mandinga, and its
course, as indicated by mists rising from its valley after heavy rains, seemed in a more direct
line toward the divide than the course of the present survey.
Sub-Assistant Ogden was detailed to make a plane-table survey of the river, and Ensign
Jasper followed, leveling with the gradienter. They worked with a small force in the bed of the
river, as I had not the men to spare to provision a party large enough to cut a line along the bank.
This party remained out nearly a week, when the rains before alluded to so swelled the river as to
compel them to suspend work, after reaching some eight miles inland and an altitude of 113 feet
Mr. Carson, mineralogist, also accompanied the party.
The plane-table, probably the most rapid method of surveying up streams, was not adapted to
the present moist weather, there being great difficulty in preserving the paper from total injury,
involving the loss of all the previous work.
During the fine weather in the early part of June, this party was again sent out to take up
their survey. This time, instead of the plane-table, courses were taken with a prismatic compass,
and distances with the alidade and distance-staff, a rapid and convenient method of working.
The survey was carried up to the head-waters of the Nercalagua, until it became lost in the divid-
28
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
ing range, at a distance from the sea of sixteen and one-half miles, and an altitude one mile be¬
low this point of 317 feet. This line gave a corresponding level a mile farther inland than the
Mandinga survey, and the best route for a canal would strike this stream a short distance above
its mouth, and follow its valley until the point for tunneling was reached.
Lieutenant Hubbard left the ship to relieve Lieutenant Hitchcock on the 16th ; but, from the
causes previously mentioned, this officer with his force did not reach the front till the 19th. The
remainder of the week they were fully occupied in carrying to the front the provisions brought up •
in boats to the head of navigation. This party, reduced to its lowest working-limit, were hereafter
kept supplied with provisions from camp No. 4, carried over the hills by the native laborers or mach-
eteros in India-rubber bags. These men are accustomed to carry great weights, and they bore
loads over these slippery paths that would have been out of the question to have attempted with
our crews.
Work was recommenced on the line on Monday, May 23, after a suspension of ten days, from
causes that have upset all my plans, and compelled me to adopt an entirely new mode of operating.
The survey went ahead slowly, from the difficult nature of the ground, rendered infinitely worse
from the wet weather, which made the smooth, rocky hill-sides slippery as glass. Here is an ex¬
tract from ajournai of one of the party :
Rained three hours, hut managed to cut 1,000 feet, working till we could no longer see through the sight-vanes.
One of the party becoming very sick, was forced to detail so many to assist him to the rear as to require us to suspend
work during the afternoon.
The line passed through the gap in the mountains, so plainly visible from the sea, but whose
bottom could not be seen from intervening hills, but we were much disappointed at obtaining in it
an altitude of 300 feet. The Mandinga here leaves its southerly course, and runs between two
ranges in an elevated valley from the northwest; a branch of it comes in at this point from the
southward and eastward, up which the line was run, till it commenced to diverge too far to the
eastward, when I ordered a south-southeasterly course to be followed, and to strike across the
divide. At this time I felt great apprehension lest I should be obliged to relinquish the survey.
Our provisions were about exhausted, our crews worn out by the fatigue incident to the work, and
no longer kept up by the charm of novelty; the macheteros, upon whom came the task of carrying
provisions, were discontented at being kept out beyond their agreement, and the rains threatened
to burst upon us at any moment, rendering the return of the parties in the field both difficult and
dangerous. Our stock of shoes, of which we had used up some six hundred pair, was so low that
it was difficult to equip a dozen men. At the same time, could we carry our levels over the divide,
we should be able to decide upon the practicability of this route, without requiring a return, and
have the satisfaction of knowing that we had accomplished the task that we had set out to do. I
therefore selected two officers, Lieutenants Hitchcock and Goodrell, upon whose pluck and energy
I could rely, and ordered them to select their men from volunteers, and be prepared to go to the
front the next day.
Mr. Hitchcock relieved Mr. Hubbard on June 2, and the latter officer returned with his party
to the Nipsic, after an absence of three weeks, much exhausted from the bad weather and rough
country encountered.
The line of levels had been carried to the foot of the divide, at an altitude of 377 feet, and
about sixteen miles from the point of departure. Mr. Hitchcock's orders were to strike across the
divide on a south-southeasterly course, and to carry the survey as far as his provisions would
permit.
The top of the ridge was crossed on the 7th of June, at an altitude of 1,142 feet, stake No.
96,000. In some places the ascent or descent was so steep as to measure a difference in height of
60 feet in 50 feet horizontal distance. The difficulty of running a level-line under these circum.
stances can well be imagined by those acquainted with the subject.
The first stream on the Pacific slope was struck at stake No. 96,500, which proved afterward to
be the sources of the Marmoni, there being not over a thousand feet of horizontal distance between
the waters flowing to the Atlantic and to the Pacific.
Pive thousand feet farther on a south-southeastern course, the line struck into a deep valley,
DAPJEN SHIP-CANAL.
29
extending as far as tlie eye could see; the whole character of the country became changed. The
line could be run with scarcely any cutting, from freedom from underbrush. Trees, soil, all different,
and the weather beautiful. The survey was continued down the Marmoni to the point where the
San José joins, and which point was also reached by Mr. Kelley's engineers with their levels in 1864.
Our levels were carried within a mile of the junction, ending with an altitude of 690 feet.
The junction of these two rivers differed from Mr. Kelley's only half a mile, serving as an excel¬
lent verification of the correctness of this gentleman's engineers, for our line started from a point
established by astronomical observations, while the other party had the Pacific shore-line for a
basis, which is doubtless half a mile in error.
We had accomplished'm ore upon the San Bias route than I dared to hope for, commencing at
the first of the rainy season, and bad gathered all the necessary data to pronounce upon the feasi¬
bility of the line. I accordingly prepared for our final departure, and the winding up of the survey
of 1870, as soon as the parties in the field could return.
While these surveys were in progress the hydrographie work under Commander Lull had
been brought to a satisfactory completion, a very thorough chart of Mandinga Harbor prepared^
the system of triangulation carried out to Cape San Bias and the outer islands, and left in such
a way that any future survey could take it up with ease, and the reefs in the bay of San Bias,
in the track of vessels bound to Mandinga Harbor, sounded and accurately placed as well as the
outer reefs off the entrance.
The shore-line as well as the position of Cape San Bias, as given by the English admiralty
charts, was found to be about two miles out.
RESULTS OF THE SUE YE Y OF SAN BLAS.
The total distance from the Atlantic to ship-navigation on the Bayamo Eiver is twenty-seven
miles, the width of the Isthmus at San Bias from ocean to ocean is thirty-seven miles. Our survey
connecting with Mr. Kelley's gives us a line of spirit-levels from the Atlantic to the Pacific which,
following water-courses that cut the Isthmus transversely, produce the lowest possible profile.
The country included between the mouths of the Mandinga and Nercalagua is quite flat for
some three miles inland, when the first range of hills is met with some 300 feet in height, through
which the Mandinga winds, passing a secondary range through a gap elevated above the sea 300
feet, and flows from the northwest in an elevated valley between the dividing and secondary
ranges. From this gap to the top of the divide is two and a half miles, and to a similar elevation
on the Pacific slope it is much longer, so that locks would not be applicable to this route, there
being a distance of over five miles, 300 feet and over in altitude, over which there are no streams of
any size or capacity for the purpose.
There being no pass in the divide, we have alone to apply to this line the test of tunneling. Upon
looking at the profile, there will be found between the elevation of 190 feet, this quantity, includ¬
ing 30 feet as the depth of the canal, a distance of at least ten miles. A tunnel of such length,
and of the dimensions required for a ship-canal, is out of the question as regards cost, if not with¬
out the limit of engineering skill ; and though this line is but twenty-seven miles in length, with a
most capacious harbor, still, from its mountainous features, I am compelled to pronounce it equally
impracticable with the routes previously surveyed in the vicinity of Caledonia Bay.
As pijBviously mentioned, the United States Steamer Nyack, Lieutenant-Commander Eastman,
had been ordered to co-operate with this expedition on the Pacific coast. It was designed that the
Nyack should act as a rendezvous and supply-depot for such parties as should cross the Isthmus,
and should survey the Savanna Eiver, emptying into the Gulf of San Miguel, and the Bayamo Eiver
as far up as the mouth of the Marmoni.
Upon leaving Aspinwall, in February, I left instructions for Captain Eastman with our consul
at Panama, expecting his arrival daily at that place. But, for some reason, the Nyack did not
leave Callao till about April 2, and arrived at the Savanna Eiver on the 13th, about the time the
survey of the Caledonia routes had been completed, and as dispatches had to come the roundabout
way of Panama and Aspinwall, I did not learn of her arrival until we had reached San Bias.
Though had the Nyack been in the Savanna at the time of our march to the Chucunaqua I should
30
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
have crossed the Isthmus ; her absence in no way affected the result of our surveys, the problem
being fully solved by the results obtained between the Atlantic and the Chucunaqua. Between
the latter river and the Savanna, the country is much more level, the undergrowth less dense, and
an easier country in every way to survey, but there would be hills still to cross that form the divide
between the La Paz and Lara Rivers, as well as those flowing in similar directions.
Lieutenant-Commander Eastman entered with vigor and enthusiasm into the duty assigned
him, the survey of the Savanna and Bayamo Rivers. He commenced the survey of the former on
the 15th of April, and completed it as far as the Lara River by the 6th of May. The general
character of its bottom is mud, with a few exceptions of rock and gravel, but underneath the mud
probably at ten feet rock will be found. It can easily be made a 20-foot channel at low water by
dredging, and this only in a few places, the river having generally more than 18 feet at low water.
The rise and fall of tide was found to be 17 feet in the river, and 24 feet in the Darien Harbor. The
result of the survey fully corroborates all previous reports of the adaptability of the Savanna
.River for canal-purposes, as well as Darien Harbor answering every requirement for a great ter¬
minus of a canal, but unfortunately the delineations of the interior of the Isthmus on the Darien
line will never call them into use in connection with the latter.
In the survey of the Bayamo River Captain Eastman found a channel of 15 feet on the bar at
low water, though the admiralty charts give but 6, sufficiently wide for all practical purposes. In
the river was found a depth of 15 feet at low water, with soft muddy bottom as far up as the mouth of
the Marmoni, twelve miles. The mean rise and fall of tide is 16 feet ; so, had the interior of the
San Bias given favorable results for canalization, the Bayamo could have been increased to a depth
of 20 feet at but little expense.
HEALTH.
*
The health of the expedition has been a matter of surprise to all. We have had at different
times many cases of fever, but they could be traced to exhaustion rather than climate ; and at the
time of our sailing for home, out of a force of some two hundred and eighty men, there were not
more than twenty on the sick-list, though all hands were very much worn, and needed recuperation.
But one death occurred during our absence from the United States, and that by drowning.
RESULT OF BAROMETRIC OBSERVATIONS.
The reports and surveys of all persons who have explored the Isthmus of Darien for a canal-
route have been founded, if upon any instrument at all, upon the aneroid barometer.
I caused some careful experiments to be made with both the aneroid and mercurial barometers
at points determined by the spirit-level. The measurements of the aneroid give us but little confi¬
dence in that instrument, as it has not been found reliable within 50 or 100 feet, and I should only
recommend it for measuring offsets from a line, where it can be compared in the morning, and upon
the return in the evening. Its errors are doubtless those of construction, being too delicate for
transportation over a rough country ; for, though carried with the greatest care, results taken the
same day plainly indicated that the index-hand had jumped.
In ascertaining the dependence to be placed upon the mercurial barometer, all its observations
taken at positions previously determined by level have been calculated. These show sometimes a
plus and sometimes a minus correction, and the mean difference between the barometeif and spirit-
level is 12.7 feet on either side. A mean of all the heights by level, compared with a mean of
those by mercurial barometer, gives the height determined by the latter as 4.1 feet too high on an
average of the whole fifty observations.
Computations were by Lee's Tables and Formulas. Careful observations of standard mer¬
curial and aneroid barometers at the observatory on the beach were taken every hour. Experience
taught us that the barometer should not be noted until it had been suspended at least forty
minutes, to allow the mercury to acquire the temperature of the surrounding air.
To the officers of the expedition, both naval and civil, I am greatly indebted for the vast
amount of work performed and results obtained. One and all entered into the work with spirit
S/NCLAIR 8/SON ,UTH. Ml LA.
RUNNING THE TELEGRAPH, DARIKX EXPEDITION
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
31
and enthusiasm. All displayed great perseverance in overcoming obstacles, and zeal and pride in
doing every task intrusted to them with exactness and thoroughness. The marine-guard, sent
solely for escort-duty, not only were at all times distinguished by a soldierly bearing and a desire
to volunteer for any expedition, but, with their officers, evinced at all times a laudable desire to
assist in every way, outside of their particular line of duty, the objects of the expedition. All
stores having been embarked, the expedition sailed from the Bay of San Bias Saturday afternoon,
June 11, for New York.
Next in importance to the discovery of the true route for an interoceanic ship canal is the
demonstration of the impracticability of others, whereby the field of research is reduced and the
problem narrowed.
Though the expedition of 1870 has not won the more glittering reward and distinction of
finding a successful route for this great enterprise, still, in the elimination of three routes from
among those to be surveyed, in laying open the Isthmus of Darien, the interior of which has
rarely been traversed by white men, and in doing away with the delusion that a pass exists in the
chain of mountains that traverses its length, they trust they have fully carried out the instruc¬
tions and expectations of the Department.
This work has been performed in little more than three months, under most inclement weather,
exposed alternately to a burning tropical sun and the heavy rains incident to this region ; and
nothing but the zeal, industry, and perseverance of those under my command have enabled us to
accomplish it.
Upon our return you were pleased to issue a congratulatory order to the expedition, that I
have taken the liberty to attach to this report.
In conclusion, permit me to thank the Department for the trust that it has imposed upon me,
and for the confidence with which it has met all my requirements.
I have the honor to be, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
THOS. O. SELFRIDGE,
Commander, United States Navy.
Hon. George M. Robeson,
Secretary of the Navy, Wash ington, J). C.
Navy Department,
Washington, July 7, 1870.
Sir: I congratulate you upon your return from the preliminary survey of the Isthmus of
Darien.
I take this opportunity to state to you how much gratified I feel at the efficient and energetic
manner you and your officers and men, and the civilian's who were associated with you, have
carried out the wishes and instructions of the Department.
I beg leave to say to you that you have fully met my expectations in the amount of work per¬
formed ) and although you have not been able as yet to find a practicable route for a ship-canal,
you have gained a large amount of very valuable information, which will be useful to science, give
the world geographical knowledge hitherto unknown, and settle all doubts regarding a communi¬
cation between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans at those points already surveyed.
I desire you will express to all those under your command my appreciation of their zeal and
enterprise under very trying circumstances.
I remain, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
GEO. M. ROBESON,
Secretary of the Navy.
Commander Thomas O. Selfridge,
United States Navy, Washington, D. C.
32
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
SUPPLEMENT.
A closer computation of tlie heights obtained by the barometer on the reconnaissance down the
Sucubti and Chucunaqua Rivers gives results a little different from those recorded on page 22
of this report. They should read, three and one-fourth miles below camp No. 9 on the Sucubti,
460 feet; one and three-fourths miles farther, camp No. 1, 423 feet; two and one-fourth miles
beyond this point, 327 feet; six miles farther, camp No. 2, 189 feet; three and three-fourths miles
farther, junction ,of the Sucubti and Chucunaqua, two observations at 11 and 11.35 a. m., give
respectively 158 and 167 feet ; down the Chucunaqua to its junction with the La Paz, or two and
one-fourth miles, 124 feet ; five miles farther, 90 feet.
.
SAN BLAS ROUTE.
Though, as demonstrated, this route is neither practicable for a through-cut canal from the
length of tunneling, nor for one with a system of lockage, there being no streams to carry it over
the summit-level of 1,100 feet, it is a question whether a canal combining the two principles of
lockage and tunneling could not be constructed, from the shortness of this line, at a less expense
than upon other routes, over which, in this respect, it has such a great advantage. Upon this
system a canal would be constructed with thirty-one locks, with a lift of 12 feet, which would carry
it to an altitude of 372 feet ; a tunnel of seven miles would be required to connect this point with
a similar altitude on the Pacific slope. Based upon a traffic of 20,000,000 tons per annum, a volume
of water equal to 12,000 cubic feet per minute is required. The Mandinga, at an altitude of 400
feet, is 100 feet wide, 2£ feet deep, and a velocity of 6,000 feet per hour, giving a supply much
greater than the demand. Though the Marmoni on the Pacific slope might not be adequate to this
demand in the dry season, it could doubtless be readily obtained by tapping some of its tributaries.
I will enter into no calculation of the cost of this canal, combining locks and a tunnel, until the
result of the survey of the Tuyra Yalley is known.
Should this latter survey prove impracticable, I will give the Department a close calculation of
the cost of a canal by the San Bias route as above described.
Yery respectfully, &c.,
THOS. O. SELFRIDGE,
Commander.
REPORT
UPON
THE SURVEY OF THE ISTHMUS OF DARIEN FOR AN INTEROCEANIC SHIP-CANAL.
BY
COMMANDER TITOS. O. SELERIDGE, JR., TJ. S. ]ST.
1871.
List of officers and civilians attached to the Darien exploring expedition o/1871.
OFFICERS.
Commander Thomas O. Selfridge, commanding
expedition.
Commander E. P. Lull, commanding United
States ship Guard.
Lieutenant Commander G. C. Sckulze, United
States ship Guard.
Master J. P. Merrell, United States ship
Guard.
Master A. E. Couden, United States ship
Guard.
Master J. T. Sullivan, United States ship
Guard.
Master A. Elliot, United States ship Guard.
Master J. M. Hawley, United States ship
Guard.
Passed Assistant Paymaster Erank Bissell,
United States ship Guard.
Assistant Surgeon H. C. Eckstein, United States
ship Guard.
Second Assistant Engineer J. W. Hollihan,
United States ship Guard.
Midshipman E. G. Peck, United States skip
Guard.
Midshipman C. P. Kunhardt, United States
ship Guard.
Midshipman J. J. Hunker, United States ship
Guard.
Midshipman T. G. C. Salter, United States ship
Guard.
Midshipman J. H. Bull, United States ship
Guard.
Lieutenant George A. Eorris, unattached.
Master Ered Collins, unattached.
Master J. G. Eaton, unattached.
Ensign E. H. Wiley, unattached.
Ensign S. C. Paine, unattached.
Ensign B. H. Buckingham, unattached.
Acting Passed Assistant Surgeon Linneus Pus-
sell, unattached.
CIVILIANS.
James Barnes, civil engineer.
A. Leslie Duvall, civil engineer.
A. I). Beach, civil engineer.
G. A. Maacke, geologist.
E. Blake, Coast Survey astronomer.
John Moran, photographer.
A. Pohlers, draughtsman.
Officers of the United States steamer Eesaca, Lieutenant-Commander Greene, and Mpsic,
Lieutenant-Commander Wilson, were not engaged actively on the survey except as mentioned in
the report.
H. Mis. 113—5
34
DABI EN SHIP-CANAL.
Portland^ December 1, 1871.
Sir: The surveys of the expedition operating on the Isthmus of Darien during the winter and
spring of 1870 extended only to the central and northwestern parts, the season not permitting any
further explorations, as fully set forth in the reports for that year. There still remained the southern
portion, of which the little information we possessed was very favorable to the prospect of finding
a suitable location for a ship-canal. You were, therefore, pleased to order me, on the 19th of
November, 1870, to assume the command of and fit out another expedition to complete the survey
of the Darien Isthmus, as embraced under your original instructions of January 10, 1870.
The Guard, having returned from her cruise on the fishing-banks, was detailed for this service.
Commander Lull, notwithstanding his recent promotion entitled him to a relief, volunteered to
remain in command, which relieved me of much perplexity, as it was desirous in the composition of
the command to avail ourselves as far as possible of the hard-earned experience of the past surveys.
The Nipsic, Lieutenant-Commander Wilson, was also ordered to co-operate, and to report to me off
the mouth of the Atrato as soon as her repairs were completed. The Saginaw, employed upon
surveying duty in the North Pacific, was to have been detailed for service upon the Pacific coast.
Upon the intelligence of her loss, the Besaca, Lieutenant-Commander Greene, was ordered to
Panama from Callao to take her place, where she arrived on the 21th of January, 1871. Two steam-
launches for use on the rivers were added ; one beiug sent down on the Guard, the other forwarded
from San Francisco by one of the Pacific mail steamers.
The country to be explored not being infested with hostile Indians, it was not considered
necessary to employ the large marine force of the previous year.
The experieuce of the past suggested but few modifications in our equipments or provisions.
Portable food was the great necessity for a successful plan of operations, and a liberal supply was
furnished, as the following :
12,033 pounds of bread, mostly in kegs, 10 pounds gross ; 102 gallons of beans ; 2,001 pounds of
rice, mostly in kegs, 10 pounds gross ; 1,992 pounds of tomato soup 5 3,003 pounds of sugar, mostly
in kegs, 15 pounds gross ; 3,012 pounds of preserved beef ; 2,510 pounds coffee, in tins of 5 and 10
pounds ; 121 cans of condensed milk; 6,668 pounds of bacon, mostly in kegs, 10 pounds gross.
The equipments were the same as the previous year, with such increase in quantities as experi¬
ence suggested.
The ration issued to the surveying parties, familiarly known as the " Darien ration,'7 was as
follows:
First day.—Bread, 11 ounces ; bacon, 1 pound ; soup, 1 pound ; coffee, 3 ounces ; sugar, 1 ounces.
Second day.—Bread, 11 ounces; bacon, 1 pound; beef, 1 pound; coffee, 3 ounces; sugar, 1 ounces.
Third day.—Bread, 11 ounces; bacon, 1 pound; beans, § pint; rice, J pint; coffee and sugar,
3 ounces each.
The above for each officer and man would seem a very liberal allowance, especially when the
difficulties of transportation were so great ; but there must necessarily be a considerable waste in
the constant movement of parties, and experience had demonstrated the necessity of a full supply
of wholesome food under the tax of the severe physical exertion so constantly demanded.
As the base of operations on both sides would be at long distances from the ships, and much
of the country overflowed, it was not deemed desirable to employ the telegraph.
In addition to the naval officers, Messrs. Barnes, Duvall, and Beach, civil engineers ; Mr. Blake,
sub-assistant Coast-Survey, astronomer; Dr. Maacke, geologist; Mr. Moran, photographer; and Mr.
Pohlers, draughtsman, were attached to the expedition.
Two flat-boats, named C&carica and Tuyra, were constructed at the New York navy-yard.
They were 21 feet long, 5 feet broad, and 20 inches deep ; were fitted with lockers for provisions
and arms, and a water-tight tent-awning. These boats proved of great service in navigating the
swamps from their light draught, being capable of carrying ten men with twelve days' provisions on a
draught of 10 inches. The theodolite, spirit-level, compass and chain, and gradienter were the prin¬
cipal instruments employed. The latter, a comparatively new instrument, requires a short notice.
It resembles a small theodolite, with the addition of a level attached to the telescope, and a mag¬
netic needle in a box on the horizontal plate. There is a micrometer-movement fixed to the telescope
DARIEK SHIP-OAK AL.
35
by which the angle subtended by a fixed base is measured. Thus, from a single station we can
with it obtain the height, distance, and azimuth of the one next to be occupied. Its great
advantage is that the survey with it requires but a small number of men, and therefore the trans¬
portation of supplies is correspondingly reduced, coupled with the lightness and strength of the
parts of the instrument itself. Glass diaphragms, with fine lines cut upon them, were also substituted
for spider-lines in the eye-pieces of all instruments.
DESCRIPTIOK OF THE PORTIOK OF DARIEK TO BE EXPLORED. (Plate I.)
The Isthmus of Darien may be subdivided into three divisions : the northwestern, including
the water-shed of the Bayamo River on the Pacific, and the Atlantic coast bordering on the Bay
of San Bias as far as the peak of Play on Ohico ; the central, from Play on Ohico to a line drawn
from Cape Tiburon to Cape Garachiné ; (the Cordilleras break off into two ranges at Playon Chico,
one continuing along the coast ; the other, crossing the Isthmus transversely, ends in the high hills
that skirt the north shore of the Gulf of San Miguel; this range forms the divide between the
Bayamo flowing to the north and the Chucunaqua to the south ;) the southern, included between
parallel 7° 30' and 8° 40' north latitude. From Cape Tiburon, the coast-range known as the Cor¬
dilleras Llorenes pursues an unbroken line, but a short distance from the coast, to the Puerto
Escondido. At the latter point it recedes and bifurcates; the one fork running nearly south,
gradually lessening in altitude till it disappears at the mouth of the Cacarica River ; the other
takes a more westerly direction till it strikes the Pacific coast, forming the true divide, known by
the name of Sancti Espiritu Mountains. It is in the valley at the forks of this range that the
Cacarica, a tributary of the Atrato, rises, emptying into the latter some forty miles from its mouth.
The western slope of this range is drained by the Tuyra River, which empties into the Gulf of
San Miguel. Two tributaries of the latter river, the Paya and Cué, have their sources very
near those of the Cacarica and Peranohita. The divide between them seems to lose its mountain¬
ous character, and is broken up into hills and spurs, over which an Indian trail, leading from one
side of the divide to the other, is known to the " caoutchandos," or India-rubber hunters, as the
pass of the Cacarica. This is the region, therefore, that I proposed thoroughly to explore—a task
requiring a combined expedition from both oceans, which, running separate lines of level, should
finally connect in the interior.
The principal explorers who purport to have visited this region are, Hellert, Lacharme,
Gorgoza, and De Puydt. The facts as stated by them are so positive as to the adaptability of this
route that one could but feel it conclusive that here would be found a line fully equal to all the
requirements of a suitable location.
Hellert contributed a paper upon his explorations to the Berlin Geographical Society, which
seemingly gave it such authority that upon its assertions I based my plans for the survey of the
Pacific slope. For a translation of this report by Professor Davidson I am indebted to the courtesy
of the Coast Survey. Professor Davidson deduced from Hellert's notes the total height of the
divide to be but 254 feet, and the Falls of Tapanaca, many miles above the Cué River, but 43 feet
above sea-level. This was all couleur de rose7 and here undoubtedly, if these figures had been
borne out in facts, was the long-sought-for spot, or, as Hellert terms it, the "key to the Pacific."
He says further that there are 8 to 10 feet, in the dry season, in the Tuyra River, as far as the
Tapanaca, and that no rocks were to be seen over the whole of this distance, and the river-bottom
sandy, with small pebbles.
One may judge of my surprise when I learned from Mr. Kelson, the agent of the railroad at
Panama, that Hellert was in his employ while in the country, and never penetrated the interior
farther than Pinogana.
Mons. Lacharme, a civil engineer of South America, explored the valley of the Tuyra as far as
the divide, in 1865, at the request of Senor Gorgoza, who supposed he had discovered in the
Spanish archives information that would lead to the discovery of a pass for the proposed canaL
Lacharme published a very interesting narrative of his travels, in Putnam's Magazine. He places
the mouth of the Paya River at 144 feet above, and Paya Village, some twenty-five miles up
that stream, at only 173 feet above sea-level. He states he followed the Indian trail from Paya
36
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
across the divide, to a branch of the Cacarica, called the Tuculegua, which he places at an altitude
of 169 feet. He purports to have gone some distance down the Cacarica, in all, two days'journey
from Paya Yillage, and to have returned in one day, measuring the distance with a chain. He
places the summit-level of his survey near the village of Paya at 178 feet, which is very remark¬
able for being the very datum given to him before he set out as the greatest elevation that would
be practicable for the enterprise. It is also singular that he should find this summit but a short
distance from Paya, when he must have known that the head-waters of that river were many
miles distant.
Senor Gorgoza also visited, I believe, the village of Paya, and the accounts he published were
sufficiently flattering to lead to the formation of a company of capitalists in Paris for the purpose
of acting upon his reports. They sent General Heine, an attaché of the American legation at
Paris, to examine this route. Heine proceeded as far as the mouths of the Atrato, but not being
properly prepared did not ascend the river, and returned to Aspinwall. The true facts obtained by
the expedition will show how erroneous were the estimates of these explorers, and how much we
who had believed in them were deceived.
INHABITANTS.
The population of the region explored during the past year may be divided into Colombianos
and Indians. The former are composed of whites, mulattoes, samboes, and negroes. The latter
compose at least five-sixths of the whole, and are an athletic race, but lazy and shiftless. They
are to be found in the villages of Ghipigana, Santa Maria del Real, Molineca, Pinogaua, and
Yavisa in Harien, and the small village of Turbo, or Pisisi, on the Gulf of Harien. They are prin¬
cipally engaged in the production of caoutchouc, in which an industrious man can easily earn $100
a month ; and as it permits a free and lazy existence, it is difficult to procure laboring men except
at the most exorbitant rates.
At one time, no doubt, the whole of the valleys of the Tuyra and Chueunaqua were inhabited by
the Darien Indians, but they have disappeared entirely from the former, excepting the Paya tribe,
on the river of that name. These Indians are less averse to strangers than any I had met with
previously, owing, no doubt, to their long intercourse with the Spaniards, of whom, however, they
are perfectly independent, and with whom there are no signs of amalgamation. They treated me
with kindness wrken I visited them, but were sharp enough to avail themselves of our necessities
in driving hard bargains for provisions. They do not number more than four hundred.
On the Atlantic slope, near the Tarena mouth of the Atrato, we have the villages of Arpeti,
Cuti, and Tanela, all under the chief of the latter. The Indians of these villages are as isolated
as those of the interior, and have all the latter's dislike to white men. They have no dealings
with Europeans; their towns are only approached through small streams in the marshes of the
Atrato, where one is almost devoured by mosquitoes, and their only glimpse of the outer world is
when they visit Pisisi to trade for the few wants they may require. These Indians were described by
those of the expedition who visited them as the finest that had been met with in Darien. De
Puydt asserts to have descended to the Tanela Yillage, and even beyond ; but, on the other hand,
their chief, Suza-le-Lele, who was very unwilling that Lieutenant-Commander Schulze should ex¬
plore their domain, told him that he was the first white man who had ever penetrated so far.
On the Chueunaqua there are now no villages of Indians below the Sucubti River, which was
visited by the expedition in 1870.
The Indians of the Atrato Yalley, called Choco, are of a much milder disposition than the
Darien. They were entirely subjugated by the Spaniards, and under these hard task-masters were
almost depopulated, and lost their tribal organization. Here and there families are to be found
upon the rivers. They are quite inoffensive, and ready to offer their services as boatmen or guides.
They are not averse to labor, and at Cupica Bay I found them tilling the ground by the side of the
Spanish negro, whom in their present degraded condition they consider a superior being.
CLIMATE.
The climate of the lower portion of Darien is materially the same as that of the region explored
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
37
last year. Of the two seasons, dry and wet, the former commences about the 1st of January and
extends to the 20th of April. At this period the wind blows invariably from the north. After April
there is more or less rain till the 21st of June. My own experience would lead me to believe that the
heaviest rains during this season are in the first three weeks of May, and after that pleasant
weather is frequent. July, though not a dry month, has but little rain. August denotes a re¬
appearance of the wet season, though there is often much pleasant weather. September and Octo¬
ber present the greatest rain-fall ; in November the amount is less, though this is the month of the
most violent storms, accompanied with heavy rains. The rain-fall in the interior is much greater
than on the coast. While we were having only showers about the 1st of May, the journal of the
surveyors record heavy rain. As to the effect of the seasons upon the construction of a canal,
during nine months of the year, there would be no more than partial interruption ; and of these
five may be considered as dry months. During the remaining three, September, October, and No¬
vember, it is not probable that any work could be done except under cover. The wind during the
wet season is usually from the south and west, with frequent calms. The temperature during the
dry season is necessarily much higher on the Pacific slope, and the nights are often hot and close.
SOIL.
All through the Isthmus and valley of the Atrato the soil is of unsurpassed fertility. On the
lower ground, subject to overflow, it has been enriched by the deposit of rivers annually brought
down for ages, while at higher elevations the vegetable decomposition going on in the dense
forest-growth has given it a rich loamy composition. All tropical products would flourish in pro¬
fusion, but the ground is peculiarly adapted to the production of the sugar-cane, which grows to
an enormous size. Plantains are the staple food for both Indians and negroes.
The indolence and indifference of the inhabitants, the sparse population, and the enervating
effect of the climate upon Europeans, seem to present almost impassable barriers to its improvement 5
and unless acted upon by such a powerful impetus as would be produced by the construction of a
ship canal, it will probably remain forever in all its natural wildness.
FORESTS.
The whole of Darien is covered with a vast primeval growth from its swamps to the top of its
highest peaks. Many of the trees I am unacquainted with, but among them are the following,
more or less known : caoutchouc, mahogany, ebony, oak, cedar, rosewood, espavé, quito, lignum-
vitse, ironwood, besides numerous varieties of the palm family.
The forest-trees support whole families of parasites, and from almost every branch hang fes¬
toons of vines, which hide the trees from which they spring, and present a scene of the richest
luxuriance.
The puma, jaguar, tapir, and tiger-cat inhabit the forests of Darien, but, hidden by day in the
dense solitudes, are rarely met with. Many varieties of the snake-family abound, whose bite is gen¬
erally deadly. The wild hog, or peccary, is found in great numbers all over the Isthmus, and forms
the chief article of meat for the natives. Monkeys are numerous ; also a small species of deer ;
armadillos, rabbits, and squirrels. Parrots and parroquets of the most brilliant plumage are met
with every where 5 also the toucan, carpintero, chucara, and many other varieties not familiar.
Wild turkeys are plentiful in the valley of the Atrato, and on the hills a beautiful bird like a
pheasant, called by the natives the currasaw, is sometimes seen.
RIYERS.
The two principal rivers of the portion of Darien explored the past year are the Atrato and Tuyra.
The Atrato, probably the fourth largest river in volume in South America, rises in a spur of the
Antioquian range that connects the latter with the divide, or Cordilleras of Darien. Flowing on a
course generally north for several hundred miles, it discharges itself through thirteen mouths, of
which the principal are the Tarena, Candeleria, Barbocoas, Coquito, Coco-Grande, Uraba, and
Pichindi, and empties into the Gulf of Darien. The valley which it drains, bet ween "the Antioquian
88
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Mountains and Cordilleras, extends from latitude 5° 26/ north to 8° 5/ north, and varies from one
hundred to one hundred and fifty miles in width. Its principal tributaries on the west bank are
the Cacarica, Salaqui, Truando, Opogado, Napipi, and Bojaya ; on the east, the Tumarador,
Sucio, Murindo, and Muri. The Atrato was surveyed by Commander Lull for one hundred and
sixty miles, or as far up as the mouth of the Bojaya. Its banks are low, and for the whole of this
distance during the wet season are overflowed to the depth of three or four feet, from which cause
all the houses are built upon piles. Below Sucio there are no habitations upon the banks, as they
are submerged ten months of the year. This river resembles the Lower Mississippi in grandeur of
proportions with its long reaches, its width, varying from 1,500 to 2,500 feet, and its great depth,
often exceeding 60 feet. Its current varies from two to three knots per hour, which would be much
increased in the rainy season, but for the overflow of the banks, which permits an escape of the
surplus water by spreading for miles over the adjacent country. Trautwine, in his report upon this
river, states that there are not more than 18 feet ninety miles from the mouth. It is probable that
his soundings were made from a canoe, which, in passing up stream, would keep in slack and shah
low water.
Our survey was carefully made in a row-boat floating down with the current, and nowhere in
the channel were found less than 28 feet. Over the whole distance surveyed no rocks were met
with, the bottom muddy, and from its great depth the river was unobstructed with snags. So
well defined is its channel, and so free from obstructions, that a single passage up and return
would be sufficient to make one acquainted with the navigation. The mouths of the Atrato are
at present obstructed by bars, upon which there will never be found more than 6 feet of water.
They differ in character, however, according to their protection from the sea. The Uraba mouth,
the one that it is proposed to utilize, being farthest from the sea, and also protected by a long sand-
spit, is fixed in its nature, and the bar of hard sand. These bars, as they are increased by fresh
deposits, are slowly extending out, and break off abruptly from two fathoms into ten. An exam¬
ination of the Uraba mouth showed that as soon as the deposit on each side of the channel was
sufficient to rise above the water and give growth to water-plants, the water commenced to deepen ;
and where the banks were of sufficient consistency to give growth to mangrove and palm, and
thus confine the flow of the current, a depth of four or five fathoms would be found. In the
improvement of the bar, I would suggest that this action of nature be imitated in creating arti¬
ficial banks by piling out to deep water, and a channel dredged out, which could be accomplished
at a moderate outlaw.
t/
The Tuyrà.—This river differs entirely in its character from the Atrato. It rises in the Pirri
range, not far from the Pacific coast, flows first east, then gradually in a semicircle to the north as
far as the Paya, and, taking about a west-northwesterly course, empties into the Gulf of San Miguel.
Above tide-water, during the dry season, its bed for fifty miles is filled with rapids, upon which
there is scarce water enough to float a canoe to the Falls of Tapanaca. Above the falls it dwindles
into a small stream. It is about 300 feet wide over most of this distance, very crooked, and the
marks on the trees indicate a rise of 16 feet during the wet season. Passing almost its entire
course through a hilly country, through its numerous tributaries it pours out a vast flood of water
during the season of rains. Of its branches, the principal, on the left bank, are the Tucuti, Pirri,
Arusa, Cupe, Paca, Piedra, and Cana. On the right bank it receives the Chucunaqua from the
north, a river of the same size and hardly a tributary ; the Yape, Pucro, Paya, and Gué, the latter
probably the same as known as the Punusa in the old Spanish maps.
EVAPORATION.
Experiments at Muertos Island, Gulf of Darien, continued through the greater part of the
dry season, showed an evaporation of one inch in five days. As this test was made with a very
small body of water, (in a wooden tank made for the purpose,) it is believed to be the maximum
amount for this locality ) and though a smaller quantity than generally allowed for this latitude,
yet when the very moist condition of the atmosphere is considered, it is not surprising that it is
not capable of absorbing more.
I)ARIEN SHIP-CANAL,
39
HEALTH.
The sanitary condition of the late expedition has been fully equal to that of 1870, and the fact
that no mortality has taken place from cHmatic causes is most gratifying, in the face of the reports
of the unhealthiness of this part of the continent.
The percentage of sick on both expeditions has not been much greater than upon the ordinary
service, though officers and men have been constantly exposed to the full malarial effect of the
climate. The prevalent diseases were fevers, (remittent and intermittent,) disorders of the
digestive organs, and skin-diseases. Fevers did not assume a dangerous type, though very
exhaustive in their effect. Eczema occasioned much annoyance, and was difficult to heal.
Bites from the hordes of insects that infest the jungles and forests, though not dangerous, were
very painful, and, in causing loss of sleep, often brought on fever.
Malaria, though necessarily active in such a wet climate as that of the Isthmus, does not, in
the uncleared portions, appear as poisonous as in many other portions of the world which have a
higher reputation for health. I attribute the fact to the hilly nature of the country and great
water-fall, by which all vegetable decomposition is quickly carried off, and also that the dense
tropical growth does not permit the action of the sun's rays.
To the very stringent sanitary regulations, such as requiring flannel to be worn next to the
skin, or, when on the survey on shore, that every person should put on a dry flannel change at
night ; the liberal use of quinine as a prophylactic, in doses of 1J grains every morning to each person
in the field; to the ample supply of wholesome food, at least three pounds to a man; to the
absence of intoxicating drinks; and to the but moderate indulgence in fruits, may be attributed,
under Providence, in a great degree, the health of the expedition, engaged as we were in a
fatiguing and laborious task, exposed alternately to the fierce rays of a tropical sun and to
constant wettings from rain or work in rivers.
The experience of this expedition and others, of the Panama Railroad Company, and of resi¬
dents on the Isthmus, proves that the climate is not as unhealthy as generally supposed, and
that it is possible to reside here many years without serious injury.
In the employment of such a~vast body of men as would be required in the construction of a
ship-canal, the preservation of health is a subject of the highest interest, not only on the score of
humanity, but as vitally important to the success of the enterprise. It is confidently believed that
by comfortably-constructed quarters, with which should be connected apparatus for the quick
drying of clothes, by rigid sanitary regulations, and by a regular supply of wholesome food, a
state of health may be maintained that will compare favorably with newly-opened districts in the
United States.
Though- the Indians, so far from increasing in numbers, appear to be rather the reverse, yet
the great mortality seems to be in childhood ; for many of the men attain a great age.
GEOLOGICAL FEATURES. (Plates Y and VI.)
The study of the geology of those parts explored by the expedition, in their relation to other
portions of the Isthmus, is very instructive ; and attention is called to the interesting report of
the geologist, Dr. G. A. Maache, upon this subject.
The results of our explorations of last year indicated that the base of the mountains forming
the back-bone of the Isthmus is principally syenite, which places them in the primary formation ;
while our observations, on the present expedition, from the valley of the Atrato and on the line of
the Panama Railroad, would denote a substructure of trap and trachyte, and of a more recent
creation.
From this we are led to infer that the central portion of the Isthmus was of an origin coeval
with the continents of North and South America; that the foot of these mountains was washed
by a united ocean, and not until a later period were the connecting-links upheaved; for the
geological and physical features of the southern portion of the Isthmus are very different from the
central, the regularity of the Cordilleras losing itself in a broken country of very much less alti¬
tude, of which the hills are principally of a trappean origin.
40
DARIEN SHIP CANAL.
The extraordinary depth of the Atrato for two hundred miles from its mouth, and the very
little fall in this distance, (40 feet,) though surrounded at not great distances by high hills and
mountains, indicate plainly that the whole valley of the Atrato was at one time an estuary of the
ocean ; that by a later upheaval the continents were connected and the oceans were separated, when
commenced a gradual encroachment upon the sea from the decomposition of the hill-sides, (which
is comparatively very rapid in this climate,) being carried down by numerous streams, and, upon
contact with another force from ocean waves and tides, deposited upon the bottom. We see this
going on now in the changing of the delta of the Atrato, only very much slower, because from the
sheltered position the action of the ocean is much less felt, and the influence of the many streams
from the east side of the Gulf of Darien tend to carry the sediment of the Atrato farther seaward.
The geology of the Napipi River and Cupica Bay is of special interest, as having been the line
selected that presented the most favorable features for the construction of a ship-canal. Here the
hills rise precipitously from the sea, and then slope away gradually till they terminate in a plain
reaching to the Atrato, with a fall of about five feet to a mile. The formation of the hills sur¬
rounding Cupica Bay and the divide is trappean, and a closer examination of its mineralogical
properties would constitute them principally as what is known in petrography as u horneblende
anderite." Once over the divide, we have a stretch of some three miles of table-land, interspersed
with clay hills of a moderate height. After descending into the plain, the outcroppings of rock
became rarer as one proceeds, and often so decomposed as to be cut with a knife; and near the
Atrato a stratum of decayed leaves is frequently met with below the surface, overlying red and blue
clay. The rock at Cupica Bay, at the falls of the Limon River, and upon the Napipi, indicates
great density and hardness; but the question of being self-sustaining can only be satisfactorily
ascertained by boring.
No minerals were found during these explorations between the Atrato and the Pacific Ocean,
though the formation is favorable to gold, and considerable quantities of the precious metal are
obtained in the rivers that rise in the Antioquian range, which is of a similar formation.
Gold ornaments of ancient manufacture have been found in the bed of the Napipi River, and
I have been told by the Indians that there is gold in the mountains, though they always refused
to give any information in regard to it.
A very important discovery of coal was made in the region bordering upon the east side of
the Gulf of Darien, an analysis and report of which, by Professor Barker, of Yale College, is
appended to this report.
The survey of the Tuyra developed the general geological features of the Napipi. Interesting
specimens of fossilized shells, imbedded in rock and detached bowlders, were found at various
points on the Tuyra, and even on the top of hills—an additional proof that this formation comes
within the later Tertiary formation.
Fossilized coral is found in the bed of the Chagres, thirty miles from the sea, and at a con¬
siderable altitude, while at the same place will be gathered pebbles of quartz, jasper, agate—all
belonging to a different period than fossils.
SAILING OF THE EXPEDITION. (Plates Y and VI.)
My original plan had been to go in the Guard first to Aspinwall ; transfer one-half of the expe¬
dition to the Saginaw at Panama, for duty on the Pacific coast ; and allow her to proceed to the
mouth of the Atrato via Cartajena. From this point the survey would be carried on by Com¬
mander Lull, while I directed that of the Pacific coast. The non-arrival of the Saginaw at San
Francisco by December 1 caused me to modify this plan, and to proceed directly to the Atrato, for
the purpose of reconnoffering the ground of our future operations in person.
All preparations having been made, we sailed December 3 from New York, and arrived at
Cartajena after a quick passage of fourteen days. The rainy season would not be over before
January 1, and there was no need of haste in getting to our post. Our time was profitably spent
in forming our surveying-parties, preparing the necessary outfits, and in exercising them in the
use of instruments. We were treated with a great deal of courtesy by the citizens of Cartajena,
who appreciate the immense advantage the construction of a ship-canal would confer upon their
NATIVE HUT, NEAR TURBO GULF OF OAR IE FT.
DABIEN SHIP-CANAL.
41
city. Sixteen native laborers, at $20 per month and subsistence, were procured ; and I was also
fortunate in securing the services of a guide, Bemedio Peta, who had the reputation of being the
best mountaineer in the lower region of the Atrato, for which I am indebted to the kind offices of
our consul, A. Hannaberg, esq., who did everything in his power to aid us.
We sailed at noon, December 27, and the next morning were off Cape Tiburon, a bold, high,
and conspicuous promontory on the Isthmus coast. The sea-breeze did not make till late, and we
anchored after dark off the Candeleria mouth. All the next morning we were boxing about,
almost unmanageable, in the counter-currents, caused by the Atrato, till noon, when, the sea-breeze
springing up, we worked out of their influence and anchored in ten fathoms, about a mile from the
Isla del Muertos, under the lee of a long sand-spit. An air of solitude and desolation prevailed,
with not a habitation or sail in sight. Ours was the first ship whose keel had ever plowed these
waters, and thoughts could but arise whether this magnificent bay was destined ever to remain
grand in solitude as well as proportions, or would it one day be covered with sails from every
clime ? To the west stretched the great delta of the Atrato, covered with its dense vegetation,
bounded by the blue outline of the Cordilleras ; to the east were the high hills of the Antioquian
range, rising from the very shores of the bay; while just visible above the horizon to the south
were the tops of the trees that skirt the bottom of the bay. This bay, so magnificent in its
dimensions, so uniform in its soundings, and tranquil as an inland sea, I named Columbia.
Numerous small streams empty into it on the east side, and at the foot of the bay is the Leon
Biver, the largest of them all, which rises in a spur of the Antioquian Mountains, and is said
to be navigable many miles for steamboats. The small town of Pisisi, or Turbo, is the only
habitable spot, containing about four hundred inhabitants.
Preparations for our work commenced immediately upon anchoring. The steam-launch was
hoisted out, the surveying-party were busy procuring their outfits, while others were employed
unbending sails and unreeving rigging, preparatory to a long stay. I had intended the surveying-
party should leave the next morning, but an accident to our steam-launch, in hoisting out, which I
feared would prove fatal to her usefulness, delayed its departure. The steamer, however, through
the skill of Mr. Hollihan, second asssistant engineer in charge, was repaired in a couple of days.
The hydrographie party, under the direction of Commander Lull, in the mean while, were at work
putting up signals, and measuring their base-line, on the east shore, just above Turbo. The diffi¬
culties under which the hydrographers labored may be imagined, where the bay was so wide as to
prevent the signals from being observed but upon the clearest days ; and as the whole west shore
was submerged and covered with forests, it was necessary to cut away a great deal of undergrowth
to clear a vista for the signals, and oftentimes to construct them upon the extremities of bars.
COMMENCEMENT OF THE SUBYEY.
Surveying-party No. 1, under the command of Master A. B. Couden, consisting of Messrs.
Barnes and Beach, civil engineers, Midshipman Kunhardt, six sailors, and two macheta-men, left
the ship Saturday morning, December 31, in one of the large flat-boats and a small skiff. It was
intended that this party should commence at the mouth of the Cacarica, triangulating and leveling
from bank to bank, and living in their boat till ground firm enough for camping out was reached.
The following orders were issued to them :
United States Ship Guard, December 29, 1870.
Sir: You are placed in charge of surveying-party No. 1, and will be held responsible for the good order and disci¬
pline of your command. While the surveying operations are under the immediate direction of Mr. Barnes, you will
assist personally as far as possible in carrying out the designs of the survey. In placing you in this responsible posi¬
tion, I must impress upon you that upon you more than any other will depend the success of the work intrusted to
your party. Many unexpected obstacles, privations, and annoyances will be met with, but nothing that patience and
courage cannot overcome. You will remember that you are moving in an unknown country, the inhabitants of which
may or may not be friendly, and you will always at night have an armed sentry posted. You will have an inspection
of arms every night after supper. The Indians are to be treated with kindness. No property or fruit will ever be
taken without permission, or paying for it. The villages must never be entered, if possible to avoid it, and any out¬
rage to their women will be punished with the utmost severity. No surveying work will be done on Sunday. You
will keep a private journal, to be handed to me on your return, to be filed away with the documents of the expedition,
H, Mis. 113 -G
42
DAKIEN SHIP-CANAL.
containing an account of daily proceedings, with such notes as may, from time to time, suggest themselves. You will be
careful that no provisions are wasted ; the daily ration is ample, and must hold out the specified time. Cooks must be
called so that breakfast will be ready at sunrise, and all hands at daylight. You will start for your work by half past
six every morning, and take lunch with you. Stop work half an hour at 11 a. m. for lunch, and continue work till 4 p. m.,
and return to camp for dinner. The equipment of the white men will consist of straw hat; 1 flannel overshirt; 1 pair
dungaree pants ; 1 pair cloth pants ; 1 flannel undershirt ; 2 pairs woolen socks ; leggings and shoes ; rubber and
woolen blankets. You will be" careful that your party change their wet clothes every night upon their arrival in
camp ; also that a table-spoonful of whisky and quinine is issued to each every morning before breakfast.
Respectfully, &c.,
THOS. O. SELFRIDGE,
Commander, Commanding.
A. R, Couden,
Master United States Navy, Commanding Surveying-Party No. 1.
United States Ship Guard, December 28,1870.
Sir: You will take charge of the survey, commencing at the junction of the Atrato and Cacarica, and proceed up
the latter to the point where the Indian trail leaves it for the village of Paya. After reaching this point, further in¬
structions will be furnished. You will be assisted in these surveys by Mr. Beach. The party will be under the com¬
mand of Mr. Couden, but the charge of the survey, and the responsibility for correctness, will devolve upon you. I
wish to impress upon you and those associated in the survey, the necessity of accuracy in all that is done, for I would
not wish to do the work over again; also that too much information cannot be put in the field-book. For reasons of
celerity and accuracy, one must record while the other observer uses the instruments. You must be certain that the
instrument is at all times in adjustment. Take bearings of all peaks and depressions, and measure vertical angles by
the gradienter. Should you come to any hill before you leave the river, take bearings from it of different peaks, and
also do the same from top of the divide, ascending a tree, if necessary. Observe slope of banks and height with hand-
level ; also character of ground for 200 feet each side of line. Observe any marks of high water on the banks, and
note height. Adopt some general scale for note-book, and certain linear value to each square ; and the latter should
show general plan of river, feature of banks, bench-marks, tributaries, camping-ground, &c. Each day, when the labors
are closed, drive a stake in the border of the stream, make a notch to mark the surface, noting time and weather, and
do the same in the morning. Note, if possible, the amount of rain-fall. Make a recognizable bench-mark each night
upon some prominent tree, and, as often as desirable, during the day. Each morning and night make special examina¬
tions for mean velocity of stream by floats, the width and cross-section by actual measurement, and numerous sound¬
ings with rod. Note character of banks and bottom, whether alluvial, sand, clay, or rock. Determine mouths of all
tributaries, their size, and name, by natives if possible. When a stream is left, to cross the divide, a specially-marked
B. M. must be made ; also a secret mark. Be particular that all notes and memoranda bear proper reference to station
from which taken.
In addition to the numbering, the day of the month will be designated by letters of the alphabet, and stations
occupied during these days will be known as A, Al, A2, A3, Bl, B2, B3.
Respectfully, &c.,
THOS. O. SELFRIDGE,
Commander, Commanding.
Mr. James Barnes, C. E.,
United States Ship Guard.
The party took with them twelve days' provisions, and were expected to pull up the Atrato to
the Cacarica, distant some forty miles.
In the absence of all maps or knowledge of the country, in order to obtain a more intelligent
idea of its topographical features, to select a proper line, and especially to determine upon the
mode and route to keep our parties supplied with provisions, it became necessary for me to make
a personal reconnoissance of the intervening country across the divide as far as the Indian village
of Pava.
The repairs upon the steam-launch having been completed, I left in her for the front, January
2, with five sailors, two marines, and two native men, including the guide, Remedio, together with
the other flat-boat, containing twelve days' full rations for the party. We passed through the
Cano Coquito, which is about 30 feet wide and 12 feet deep. The guide cautioned us about striking
the trees as the deadly Mapana snake is often coiled away in the overhanging branches, whose bite
is mortal, and when one falls on the deck of a native craft, the wildest confusion reigns till the intruder
takes to the water. We saw two sleeping, coiled up in the forks of branches, but did not trouble
ourselves to stop and shoot them. Cano Coquito is about three miles long, about 30 feet wide, and
12 feet deep, and in a half-hour we emerged into the Barbacoas branch of the Atrato. Let it be un¬
derstood that the Atrato divides into two branches, the Barbacoas and Tarena, each of which is
about 1,000 feet wide. Ten miles above the Coquito we come to the forks of the river, and the
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
43
Atrato opens out in all its grandeur of proportions. Accustomed as we were to the small streams
of Barien, this river, unseen from the sea, emptying through mouths so concealed in the dense
undergrowth as to be recognized only by the sunken logs that collect in their vicinity, strikes one
with astonishment as it rolls along in all its mightiness, many hundred yards wide, in some places
an hundred feet deep, and with long reaches, as far as the eye can see. Its banks are low and sub¬
merged, to above the Cacarica, nine months of the year. They are covered with the densest tropi¬
cal growth, fringed at the edges with the green grammalote-grass and lofty trees, from which hang
in festoons vines of every size and description. Numerous birds of gay plumage enliven the scene?
but animated nature hardly gives a sound to disturb the stillness of this vast wilderness, unless it
might be the chattering of a monkey at the too near approach of our little steamer. It would
seem as though the Almighty had created this river, suitable in every respect for the navigation
of the largest ships, for some other purpose than a highway for the little native crafts, which are
poled wearily up against the current, or float lazily down with the stream.
Nothing occurred during the day to disturb the monotony of the voyage, except passing a
barquetona, as the native craft are called, floating down with the current, its black crew stretched
out on deck, enjoying their siesta in the blazing sun. These barquetonas do all the trading be¬
tween the towns on the Atrato and,the coast. They are allowed to float the whole distance down
the river, only pulled out with oars, if drifted too near the banks, and occupy about three weeks
passing from Quibdo to Pisisi, a distance of about two hundred and eighty miles. They are pro¬
pelled up stream with forked poles, styled u polancas," which are shoved against the banks on one
side, while the head of the craft is kept in by the action of the current upon the rudder. The
boatmen are called u bogas," and naturally, from the great amount of physical exertion their occu¬
pation calls for, are the most athletic men I have ever seen. Their food rarely varies from a diet
of fish, plantains, rice, and lard.
We anchored at sunset about three miles below the Cacarica. Our first night's experience on
the Atrato was not a pleasant one. It rained very heavily, and the mosquitoes appeared in
swarms with the approach of twilight, though we had anchored in the middle of the river to
avoid them.
January 3.—We were under way at daylight, and at 7 o'clock passed into the Cacarica,
which is distinguished from the Atrato by its sluggish current, and its very dark color.
Viewed from the ship off the Cano Coquito, the coast-range of mountains lose themselves
to the southwest in a low range of hills, which I had supposed was the true divide. A more
extended knowledge of the country showed us that the coast-range of Barien bifurcates probably
a little south of Cape Tiburon ; the eastern branch ending near the mouth of the Cacarica, while the
westernmost forms the true divide, which we crossed on our road to Paya. The valley formed by
these two ranges is the one through which the Cacarica, rising in the north, flows in a southeasterly
direction to the Atrato.
A mile and a half up the Cacarica rises a singular mound or hill about 80 feet high, while all
the surrounding country is low and marshy, and at this time covered with water. This hill, called
by the natives the "Loma de Cacarica," will be the initial point of our survey. Upon reaching the
Loma, we found the surveying-party, which had reached there the previous evening, after a
fatiguing pull up the Atrato.
The information I here received compelled me to change my plans, which, up to this period,
had been based upon the supposition that the Cacarica could be surveyed as an ordinary river ; and
1 knew nothing of the immense swamp over which its waters spread themselves, rendering it
impossible to find ground even firm enough^ to place an instrument, and, therefore, leveling, under
these conditions, was out of the question. The Cacarica, at the Loma, is 30 feet deep, and wide
enough for ship-navigation, but the further progress of the steam-launch was interrupted by a
strip of grammalote-grass, some hundred yards in length, which covered the whole surface of the
river. This grass is a curious feature of the lower tributaries of the Atrato, for none was met
with on the Napipi. It grows upon the surface, and is so strong and dense that the trail left
behind, by a boat pushed through it, will hardly show the water upon which it floats. Where
the river is too deep to reach the bottom, forked poles or polancas are used, which gather up a
bunch of the grass, and thus obtain a sufficient hold to push against.
44
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Leaving the steam-launch with orders to await my return, our stores and equipments wTere
transferred to the flat-boat. Mr. Couden, with the guide Remedio, joined our party, while Mr.
Kunhardt was left with orders to follow me up and commence the survey as soon as ground firm
enough was reached.
To avoid the grammalote, we made a wide detour over the marsh for about three-quarters of a
mile, until we reached the clear water above, which we followed for one and a half miles up to the
forks of the river. The right fork leads to a u eienega,"or lake, into which flows the river Peran-
chita, while the left is the Cacarica proper, up which onr course laid. Our progress was arrested by
a long stretch of grammalote, extending as far as the eye could see, covering completely the sur¬
face of the river, and resembling an immense meadow. Not knowing of this obstruction, we had
neglected to provide ourselves with poles, and were compelled to use oars against the grass, which
very much increased the necessary labor. The men worked with great zeal, but two hours of such
incessant labor under a broiling sun was completely exhausting. Our progress was length by
length only, through the united exertion of all in the boat, fits broad bottom on the grass
causing nearly as much resistance as over ground itself. Our thirst, too, was intolerable, having
neglected to fill our canteens from the river below, and I was afraid to allow the stagnate waters
of the swamp to be drank. About 1 o'clock we had a drenching but most welcome shower, which,
obscuring the rays of the sun and giving us the means of quenching our thirst, enabled us to push
on with renewed vigor. At 4 o'clock we got out of the grass, and entered a dense swamp of pan-
gama palms, through which ran a narrow channel varying from 2 to 4 feet in depth, but so intri¬
cate and tortuous that we never could have found our way through but for the skill of the guide.
We stopped at sunset, building a fire upon the roots of aj)alm-tree, the only point in the neighborhood
above the water. Twilight had hardly appeared before commenced to swarm myriads of mosquitoes.
Words can hardly describe the misery these pestiferous insects caused us on this laborious reeon-
noissance. The next morning the inside of the awning was black with them, and in consequence,
tired as we were, there was but little sleeping.
January 4.—Building a fire on the roots of our palm-tree, we made a breakfast of coffee and
bacon, eaten under the relentless attacks of the mosquitoes, none the less active from the night's
vigil. At seven o'clock we were again under way, poling through the woods. Every leaf seems to
hold a family of ants, which sometimes came down in showers as the boat, by careless steering,
would bring up against a tree, and their sharp bites were as annoying almost as our persecutors of
the night. Remedio found that he had got off the track, and about an hour and a half were spent
in finding the right trail. This whole day was passed in this dark and slimy swamp, the over¬
growth so thick as to rarely obtain a glimpse of the sun, and the path so narrow and the water so
shoal as to compel us frequently to hew away the obstructions, or to wade through the mire, imsliing
the boat ahead. At 5 p. m. we stopped for the night, at a miry strip of ground about six inches
out of water, and cooked dinner and supper in one.
January 5.—Last night was like the preceding one, and a type of all the others in this miser¬
able country, the air swarming with mosquitoes, and heavy showers of rain. The only rest
obtained was by rolling up in a blanket and snatching a little sleep in this smothered state. How¬
ever, a few each night, finally overpowered by fatigue, would sleep in spite of these tiny tormentors,
or we should have been obliged to succumb from the sheer want of sleep. We started, as usual,
at 7 a. m., and proceeded, slowly poling up stream. We were frequently retarded by fallen trees,
some of which, from their size, took a long time to cut away. Not foreseeing any experience like
this, I had provided our party with but two axes, and any accident to them would have prevented
our further progress, showing how fatal in these expeditions would prove a lack of foresight or
care in the provision of equipments. No sign of life except of the insect-species, and there was
enough of the latter, appeared in this dark and dismal swamp, though, at night, the distant growl
of a tiger warned us that it was not entirely uninhabited. Desperate from the want of sleep, we
worked with a will, hoping upon reaching high ground to escape our winged persecutors. Every
day Remedio would promise us above a certain point there would be no more mosquitoes, but
whether he said it to encourage us, or whether they were more abundant from the moist atmosphere,
it is very certain they never left us even on the divide itself.
DAKIEN SHIP-CANAL.
45
Had I never been a personal witness and participant of tbe sufferings caused by these insects,
I should have considered it ridiculous to make so much of what may seem so little to people who
know nothing of tropical swamps 5 but let anyone multiply the annoyance of a single one by
thousands, until the rest that nature provides is rendered almost an impossibility, and he will have
some idea of the annoyance of Darien life. The rains at night and the constant getting in and
out of the boat kept all our clothing wet, and it was a wet blanket indeed, both to body and mind,
that we rolled up in at night. About 3 o'clock this afternoon we came out into the open river
again and took to the oars; the current was swift, and our progress in consequence was slow. At 5
p. m. we halted for the night, the bank being about a foot above the water.
January 6.—The rain of last night and of the previous day had caused a rise of the river, and
it was difficult to find a spot upon which a fire could be built for breakfast. The current, in conse¬
quence, had become so strong that our guide declared it would be imposible to push our heavy
boat up stream. I determined, however, to make the attempt, for our provisions had already been
heavily drawn upon, and we were not the third of the way on our journey. It was upon a tramp
of this nature that the provisions I had provided proved their great value. With our tomato-soup,
beef, coffee, and sugar in tins, and the bread in India-rubber bags, though the boat was always
wet, not an ounce was spoiled. After breakfast we started, and, though the river was not a hun¬
dred feet wide, with the current running about five knots, we had difficulty in reaching the opposite
side without being carried down-stream. Fortunately we had a lead-line with us with which the
boat was tracked up stream. But let it not be supposed that this was easy work, for the banks
were lined with a thick growth of wild plantains and vines, which had to be cut away to get the
line ahead. At one place we were blocked by an immense drift-pile, which obliged us to take every¬
thing out of the boat and haul her bodily over land to the river above, no easy task for eleven men.
In another place, where the trees would not permit this plan, two hours were spent in clearing
away the drift to float our boat through. These drift-piles are dangerous to pass, because they
abound in treacherous holes covered with chips, into which if one falls, or if after the clearing is
partially made he slips from a log, he would be carried under the pile and entangled beyond rescue
in the snags and branches. At 5 p. m. we reached a spot called by the guide "El rancho de los
Mujeres," but afterwards dubbed by us Camp Supply, having made but about two miles in our day's
work. But it was a gain to get finally clear of the swamp, and to be able to see the sky above,
while the larger size of the trees and the vegetation less rank indicated that we were not far from
rising ground. The banks were here about two feet out of water, and all hands went to work to
make themselves more comfortable than the confined limits of the boat permitted by building little
shelters on shore. At midnight, however, the rain came down only as it can in the tropics ;
the river overflowed its banks, driving all hands into the boat, where was passed a sleepless night.
January 7.—This morning prospects were dismal enough. Still raining hard, everybody wet,
cold, and uncomfortable. There being no ground upon which to build a fire, we were obliged to
breakfast off raw bacon and hard bread. The water was two feet over what was dry ground the
night before, and the Cacarica had become a foaming torrent, making it impossible to proceed.
Later in the forenoon Mr. Couden and myself succeeded in making a fire of little sticks in our frying-
pan, and cooked a most acceptable pot of coffee. The method of building a fire practiced by the
natives is novel and perhaps instructive, when green or wet wood is the only fuel obtainable : A
foundation of small logs is first made, upon which, round a small piece of lighted candle, are placed
a number of little sticks, their ends projecting over the flame, and increasing in size till a pyramidal
pile is formed, the flame of the candle will dry and ignite the ends of the little sticks when it
would fail to do so if built in any other manner. At noon the rain ceased, the sun came out, and
all hands, wading knee-deep, were busily occupied in drying their cloths upon trees and bushes. I
took some sights for longitude under difficulties, standing in the water with the sextant, while the
artificial horizon was placed upon the end of an old canoe, filled with water to keep it steady. Up
to this time no game had been met with but black monkeys, though parrots and parroquets of the
most brilliant plumage were numerous. In the afternoon an armadillo was killed—a curious little
animal, with a hard scaly covering or mail—which proved to be very good eating, in taste resembling
young pig.
46
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
January 8.—Though to-day was Sunday, and my orders did not permit work, as our provisions
were running low, I considered it necessary to proceed ; the current was still strong, and our prog¬
ress was not over a mile and a half an hour. We soon struck the hills, not over 70 feet high,
alternately on each bank, and small rapids also, which caused delay. The banks were now about
12 feet high, and ledges of rock began to crop out here and there, which proved upon examination
to be trap, though so soft by decomposition as to be easily broken. All hands were put to-day
upon half-rations.
January 9.—Last night was but a repetition of previous annoyances, myriads of mosquitoes and
heavy showers. We had ceased to believe Remedio, that there was any spot where they did not
thrive. The current had become too swift for oars, and we accordingly used poles, steering with
an oar. At noon we came to the forks of the Cacarica : the left one, coming from the east, is doubt¬
less the one called by the Indians Aputi. The river had now become a series of rapids, to force
our boat over which required the united strength of all hands ; frequently the current was so
strong as to sweep us off our feet, and often all hands were obliged to go ahead and pull the boat
up with great difficulty. At 5 p. m. we reached a point about a mile from where we were to leave
the Cacarica to take the Paya trail, and, as the river ahead was reported to be very bad, I concluded
to leave our boat at this place and perform the rest of the journey on foot.
January 10.—Last night was the first one without rain since leaving the ship. We had been
seven days arriving at this point, that I had expected to reach in four, and great care was now to
be taken with our provisions to make them hold out. Leaving one man in charge of the boat and
equipments, our party, with knapsacks, blankets, and rifles, with four days7 provisions, took the
trail for Paya. At noon reached the mouth of a stream called by our guide the Barial, by the
Indians Tuculegua. We proceeded up this river, wading it' except when too deep, till 4 p. m.,
when we camped for the night.
January 11.—By universal consent our camp was dubbed Camp Misery. At sunset black
clouds commenced to roll up, and at 7 p. m. the rain came down in torrents. The little hut we had
raised served only to collect the water in small streams, and I soon found myself in a pool. The
night was pitchy dark, the rain soon put our fire out, and there was nothing to be done but sit out
that long night, with our blankets over our heads to keep off the mosquitoes, which seemed more
vindictive than ever. Daylight finally appeared, and after a hasty breakfast we resumed our
march up the bed of the river. This was one of the most beautiful streams that I had met
in Darien ; the banks of moderate height, with spots here and there covered with grass, which
seemed to be natural clearings, though probably, many years before, the gardens of the Indians;
its waters were clear and silvery ; the bottom either fine sand or smooth rock, with pretty little
cascades here and there worn in the rock. At 11 o'clock we had reached nearly the head¬
waters of the stream, when Remedio discovered he had missed the trail over the divide. Wading
up stream with our heavy packs was no light work, and it was rather discouraging to find out that
any walking had been wasted. Stopped for lunch off beef and coffee while the guide went in
search of the missing path. Starting again down-stream at 1 p. m., we commenced the ascent of
the divide, taking a careful reading of my aneroid-barometer, which stood at 29.625. At 2 p. m.
stood on the lowest crest of the divide, which was here not over 10 feet wide. The barometer read
29.45, and, allowing a height of 97 feet for every tenth of an inch fall, would give 170 feet for its
height above the plain of the river at the point we had left it. Toward the westward there was
seen a depression and an extent of low land, which afterward I wras certain must have been the
valley of the Mono River, a tributary of the Cue, though at the time I supposed it was that river
itself. My principal object had been attained in reaching the highest point on our survey; and so
favorable was the altitude that I could not but believe that, with the promising reports of the
Pacific slope, as mentioned by other explorers, this was the route so long sought for. Our course
continued for a mile and a half in a northerly direction, when we left the crest and descended to
the base, along which flowed a small rivulet. Here were some rude ranchos, constructed some
time previous by Indians or Li caoutchandos and, as we had had a hard day's journey, we rested
for the night.
January 12,—Mosquitoes were as thick as ever last night, but, overcome with fatigue, by
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
47
wrapping in y head and hands in a blanket, I managed to get a little sleep. We started at 7 a. m.,
the trail leading over a succession of hills from 100 to 200 feet high, which skirt the left bank of
the Paya. The path was wet and slippery, all were very tired, and we were compelled to make
frequent halts for rest. At half past 1 we arrived on the bank opposite to the Paya Tillage, and
men, wromen, and children flocked out to see the white strangers, whom they had never seen come
in this direction before. They sent a canoe to bring us over, and I was quite surprised to And they
had no fear of us, the women remaining at the doors of their houses, while, in all my other experi¬
ences in Darien, they had always been carefully put out of sight by their jealous lords upon the
first sign of the approach of any party of the expedition. The cacique, or head-man, of the Payas,
named Miquelon, though reputed to be a hundred years old, was absent in the woods, so I visited
the second chief, named Pedro. I told him for what purpose I had visited his village ; but he said
he would have to wait for the return of his superior, putting, however, a house at my disposal
upon asking for it. At dusk I had an interview with Miquelon and Pedro, the latter's wife, who
understood Spanish, acting as interpreter. I delivered some presents which I had brought—to
Miquelon, a gold-headed tortoise-shell cane; to Pedro, a double-barreled shot-gun; and to his wife,
several yards of bright-colored print. Though apparently they had no ill-feeling at our arrival,
and willingly received our presents, in their replies to my questions about their country, they
evinced the usual hypocrisy and cunning of the Darien Indians, pretending the path by which we
had crossed was the only one they used, and the only one with which they were acquainted. I
found that Senor Gorgoza had visited this place two or three years before, and Miquelon showed
me with a great deal of satisfaction a gaudily-painted picture of the Emperor Napoleon, and some
documents from Gorgoza, the purport of which was to make him the alcalde of the village. The
interview was productive of no particular benefit, but I was satisfied that no interference from them
was to be dreaded, and, with our instruments, we are not dependent upon the evasive answers of
these aborigines. The Paya- Indians were not different from the rest of mankind in their desire to
turn an honest penny, and, as soon as they found we were in want of provisions, chickens and eggs
assumed prices that would have done credit to our home-markets. However, we made a good meal
from hastily-plucked chickens, and all hands retired early, with the prospects of the first comforta¬
ble rest for many nights.
January 13.—The village of Paya probably numbers about four hundred persons in all,
with some thirty houses. It presents the same characteristics as other villages previously described,
though the Indians seemed more frank and friendly in their intercourse, and in general appeared
to have more intelligent countenances. In addition to this town there is a small one higher up
called Payacita, and one at Tapalisa, all under Miqueloffs jurisdiction. Our movements excited
their curiosity, and our house was always filled with them. The village is on a flat plain, elevation
of the banks about 16 feet, and the river at this point about 200 feet wide. By my barometer I
made the elevation of Paya to be 270 feet. Excellent observations were obtained for both latitude
and longitude. As before remarked, the country between Paya and the divide is very broken,
there being no level land, but a continued succession of hills. I concluded, therefore, not to adopt
this route for our level-line, but to run up the Cue River, which from the divide seemed to present
a greater amount of level land. I made arrangements to take up our return-march this afternoon,
but our guide, who had been imbibing freely, absolutely refused to go. One of the men of the
party had become so foot-sore that I was obliged to leave him behind, making arrangements with
the chief to send him down the Tuyra River to Pinogana, whence he could find transportation to
Panama.
January 14.—We left this morning upon our return, having considerable trouble in making
our guide accompany us, as he was very drunk. Nothing in particular occurred, but all hands were
weary and foot-sore when we halted for the night upon a sand-beach on the Tuculegua. Worn out,
we threw ourselves upon the wet ground, rolled up in our blankets. The mosquitoes, however, as
thick as ever, would find their way through the smallest crevice ; sleep was out of the question,
and the whole night was passed pacing the sand, wishing for morning.
January 15.—At noon of this day we reached the Cacarica, and, launching an old canoe we
found there, started down the river. We had gone but a few rods when we heard voices, which
proved to be a portion of the surveying-party that I had left behind at the Loma. This party had
48
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
followed us up, and upon reaching firm ground, their provisions being nearly exhausted, the officer
in charge, instead of sending back to the Loma, erroneously concluded to attempt to proceed forward
and procure supplies from Paya. This departure from my instructions caused me much vexation ;
and not only would they not have been able to reach Paya without a guide, but they would have
been put to a great strait for something to subsist upon. The little store that I had carefully hus¬
banded for our return had now to be divided among double the number, which left but a scanty
amount for each. .
January 16 and 17 were passed on the river and swamp, arriving at the Loma de Cacarica on
the evening of the 17th, where was the steam-launch that I had ordered to await us. We left the
Loma at noon of the 18th, reaching the ship about dark, after an absence of sixteen days, so much
prolonged beyond what was expected as to give rise to many conjectures. The hardships of this
reconnoissance proved too much for us, and many of the party were taken with the fever, myself of
the number, which confined me for three weeks. This reconnoissance was completely successful in
its results, except upon my return I found that my observations for time were useless, which pre¬
vented me from fixing the position of our trail as well as I could have wished. My watch, (How¬
ard's best,) which had shown such a uniform rate as to give me great confidence in it, was so
affected by dampness as to be utterly unreliable. Looking at it from the Atlantic side, the
principal difficulty to be met with was the transportation of provisions through the swamp. It
had been reported to me that another river, thePeranchita, emptying into the Cienega a few miles
above the Loma, did not present the same obstacles in this respect as the Cacarica. Being too ill
to make a personal inspection of this new route, I dispatched my chief engineer, Mr. Barnes,
instead. He returned, after an absence of six days, and his report was so much in its favor that I
concluded to adopt the Peranchita as the line of future operations instead of the Cacarica.
Onr guide Eemedio was seized with brain-fever upon the return of this party, and died after
an illness of three days. He was a great loss to us, from his excellent knowledge of the country
and his skill in all kinds of wood-craft. Except a fondness for liquor, he was an excellent man, and
a perfect athlete in strength.
The Nipsic, whose non-arrival had caused me much anxiety, as there were no other means of
my getting to Aspinwall, arrived on the 30th of January, bringing information that the Resaca was
at Panama awaiting my orders.
Surveying-party No. 1 having returned to the ship, a new one was ordered to be at once fitted
out, and placed under command of Mr. Couden. This young officer deserves a great deal of credit
for the zeal and alacrity he displayed in again starting upon a long and trying expedition. He had
accompanied me on the recent trip to Paya, during which he suffered much from a poisoned hand,
and, though I did not then know it, was not well when he left this second time. His party, the
same as previously spoken of, with the addition of Midshipman Salter, left for the front, February
6, in the steam-launch. They carried with them twelve days' provisions, half of which they were
directed to leave at the Loma, and then to push ahead up the Peranchita till firm ground was
reached. In the meanwhile the hydrographie party had been steadily at work, having built
and established a great many signals, and put in many miles of shore-line and soundings. A
large work-shop had been put up on the Isla de los Muertos, and a substantial wharf constructed.
The observatory had been erected at the first, and the astronomer, Mr. Blake, of the Coast
Survey, had obtained sufficient observations, both transit and zenith distance, to determine accu¬
rately its position. In view of a long stay, and the absence of anything in the shape of vege¬
tables, even a garden had been planted, I accordingly turned over the charge of all the operations
on the Atlantic side to Commander Lull, giving him orders to carry the survey forward over the
divide, till connection was made with the Pacific party, as also to run a line along the crest till
the lowest elevation was reached.
On the morning of February 8, I embarked on the Nipsic, and sailed for Aspinwall. Messrs.
Duvall, civil engineer, Blake, Moran, and my clerk, Mr. Stokes, accompanied me, together with full
supplies of provisions, equipments, and instruments. We arrived at Aspinwall the evening of the
9th. The astronomer went immediately on shore, and successfully established his instrument the
same night in the observatory of last year, which had been left standing. The following day the
stores, equipments, &c., of the expedition were transported across on the railroad. The position
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
49
of Panama being much in doubt, it was exceedingly desirable to have a fresh determination. Mr.
Blake, therefore, proceeded to Panama for the purpose of obtaining observations, and its position
east of the observatory of Aspinwall (which had been accurately determined the previous year)
was fixed by chronometric differences, the use of the telegraph being courteously lent for the occa¬
sion by the Panama Railroad authorities.
Lieutenant Norris, Masters Collins and Eaton, and Ensigns Buckingham, Wiley, and Paine, who
had been detailed for duty with the expedition in the Saginaw, in consequence of her loss had
been ordered to Panama, and reported to me on the 11th of February.
The Resaca was hardly suitable for the requirements of the expedition, having no storage
capacity, and barely accommodations for her own officers. The addition of eleven officers of the
expedition, with a large quantity of material, naturally put those on board to great inconvenience,
but the annoyances thus arising were generally met in a liberal spirit. Lieutenant-Commander
Green cheerfully placed the whole resources of his command at the service of the expedition, and
always co-operated, with promptness, in any work that was required of his ship.
It had been my intention to employ laborers from the towns on the Tuyra River, but at the last
moment I was informed of the lazy and independent character of these people, and hired ten men
from Panama, accustomed to work in the interior.
We sailed Wednesday, February 14, for Darien, and passed up the Gulf of San Miguel the
next morning, finding the English charts generally correct as to positions and soundings. We took
the main channel up the Boca Grande, which is wide and deep, in preference to the Boca Chica,
which, though shorter, is dangerous for long ships, except perhaps at slack water. As the chart
did not extend above the mouth of the Savanna River, we proceeded slowly, feeling our way,
but grounded about four miles below Chipigona on a sand-bar at half-ebb. The Resaca floated
again in the afternoon, and proceeded up, and anchored in seven fathoms (low water) off the
village of Chipigana.
DARIEN HARBOR. (Plate X.) *
This estuary of the sea, that receives the waters of the Savanna, Tueuti, Chucunaqua, and
Tuyra Rivers, extends from Boca Grande to Chipigana, and is about ten miles long and from four
miles to three-quarters broad. Both of its shores are skirted with hills, which terminate on the
south side at the mouth of the Tucuti ; to the northeast they make the-dividing line to an immense
swamp that is filled from the overflow of the Tuyra River. Thus protected, it forms an interior
harbor in every way suited for the terminus of the canal. It is, however, not easy of access for a
sailing-vessel, from the strong tides that ebb and flow through Boca Grande and Boca Chica. The
mean rise and fall of the tide is 17 feet, but the spring-tides reach as high as 24 feet, and the cuiTent
then is not less than three knots per hour. During the rainy season, from the great water-shed
that is drained into this basin, the ebb-tide runs with the velocity of seven knots per hour, making
it sometimes difficult for a vessel to hold at her anchorage. The influence of the spring-tides
during the dry season extends about three miles above Pinogana, some sixty-three miles from the
Gulf of San Miguel, where it runs flood for about two hours. But in the wet season the tide is not
appreciable above Santa Maria del Real.
The Tuyra River may be said to enter Darien Harbor a mile above Chipigana, because at this
point the character of the country entirely changes. The hills disappear that bound the harbor,
the banks are so low as to be overflowed at every spring-tide, and covered with a thick growth
of mangrove. Twenty miles above the mouth they rise a couple of feet above high tide, and there
appears a dense tropical growth of trees, vines, and parasites. The Tuyra at its mouth is at least
a mile and a half wide, and carries this width for nearly eighteen miles. At the junction of the
Chucunaqua it is about five hundred yards, and then gradually lessens to some one hundred yards
at the Pinogana. At half-tide a depth of 24 feet is carried for twenty miles, except at two or three
crossings, where this depth might not be found except at high water. The Chucunaqua enters at
thirty-three miles from Chipigana, and the two rivers at this point are so alike in size and volume
that either might be considered as the main river. The Tuyra is not navigable for crafts drawing
6 feet above Santa Maria, except during spring-tides and freshets. This is about the depth at
H. Mis. 113 7
50
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Pinogana at high-water spring, but during neap-tides not half this amount is found, and we could
not get up to it at this period, with the steam-launch drawing feet. Above Pinogana, during
the dry season, the depth varies from 2 to 10 feet, as far as the Arusa River, where the first rapids
are met with ; the bottom of the river sand and small pebbles. The rapids increase in number,
and above the Cupe River are at least three to a mile. The banks are 16 feet in height. The
country above the Cupe loses its alluvial nature; masses of trap-rock crop out; the bed of the
river in many places is solid rock; and hills rising as high as 400 feet are met with, first on one
side, then on the other, which in many places rise precipitously from the river, of which the prin¬
cipal are called, by the natives, Paloma, Très veces de Parva, Paca, Loma Diablo.
Thus it will be seen how different is the true character of the Tuyra from that described
by Hellert, who asserted that from 8 to 10 feet could be carried to the Falls of Tapanaca, which
are many miles above the Paya; that there were no rapids or rocks in the whole of this distance;
and he proposed in his project for a ship-canal to make slack-water navigation of a river that has
but six inches of water upon its rapids, and that I have known to rise 16 feet in a single night.
The principal villages in Darien, for they cannot be dignified into towns, are Chipigana, Santa
Maria, Molineca, Pinogana, and Yavisa. The last two are the farthest in the interior, and the
Spaniards never established themselves beyond these points, excepting the Oana mines, which
were formerly reached by a three days'journey overland from Pinogana.
The principal productions are caoutchouc, or India-rubber, and tagua, or ivory-nuts, in the
collection of which all the inhabitants are directly engaged. The India-rubber seekers, known as
caoutchandos, are generally employed in gangs, by a man called the patron, who furnishes the
supplies and equipments, and receives his return in India rubber. An industrious man can earn
$100 a month, when he returns home, and spends his time in feasting and drinking till his earn¬
ings are gone, when he betakes himself to the woods again. This kind of a roving, independent
labor is preferred to any settled employment, and prevented me from making any use of the in¬
habitants in our surveys.
COMMENCEMENT OF THE SURVEY. (Plates I, IX, X.)
My original plan for the survey of the Pacific slope had been based upon the statements pre¬
viously mentioned in this report that the Tuyra was navigable for our steam-launch at least as
far as the river Paya. This , would have enabled me to place the surveying-party and supplies
within a few miles of the divide, and reduced one-half.the labor of the task we had before us. My
reconnoissance of the Paya trail had shown me its unfitness, from the very broken nature of the
country, as before described ; but I had seen, as well as a view over the forest would permit, to the
westward an appearance of level land. I therefore determined to survey up the valley of the next
tributary to the Paya, which is known as the Cue, no doubt the same river which Governor Arisa
calls the Punusa, whose head-waters are but a short distance from those of the Peranchita, up
which the party from the Atlantic were pursuing their work. Reports of the low land along the
Cue, obtained at Pinogana, confirmed me in the belief that this was the proper course.
For the purpose of obtaining definite information, I left the Resaca off Chipigana, at 10 a. m.,
February 17, in a row-boat. Reached the mouth of the Ghucunaqaa, distant thirty-three miles, at
4 p. m., and at 6 p. m. arrived at Yavisa, twelve miles up on that river. My object in visiting this
place was to see a Mr. Carlo Dean, a gentleman engaged in the India-rubber trade, who was well
acquainted with the country. I was disappointed in not seeing him, as he was absent on a trip to
Paya. Yavisa probably numbers about three hundred inhabitants, and is situated upon a plain,
surrounded by hills, which makes it the most unhealthy of the Darien villages. It is the headquar¬
ters of the India-rubber trade of the Chueunaqua, as Pinogana is of the Tuyra. The only object of in¬
terest was the old stone fort, built by the Spaniards more than a hundred years before, in an excellent
state of preservation, minus the roof, which had been destroyed by fire not long ago. At the time
of my visit, the Yavisians were in a great commotion at the news of an approaching attack from
the Indians, in consequence of some of the latter having been killed a few months before by a
party of blacks. How their ancestors, those pioneers of the New World, would have blushed at the
degeneracy of their descendants, who were now afraid to ascend the Chueunaqua for fear of meet¬
ing their foes!
I
T. SINCLAIR & SON,LITUr HULA.
SURVEYING PARTY AT DINNER
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
51
11 eft Yavisa at 11 a. m. the next day, but did not reach Pinogana till sunset, owing to meeting
a strong head-tide in the Tuyra. Pinogana is prettily situated on a broad, cleared plain, about 4
feet above the bed of the river. Its houses are of bamboo, thatched with palm, and placed prin¬
cipally upon two streets. On the outskirts of the town is a large mango-tree, of a very beautiful
and symmetrical growth. The population is composed of negroes, excepting Ihree or four white
traders, who are lazy, shiftless, surly, and independent. Apart from these common traits of the
free, ignorant African, to whom nature gives all his wants, the ease with which they can earn a
few dollars, in collecting caoutchouc, encourages an aversion to steady labor, and it was very for¬
tunate that I had engaged our laborers at Panama, as they could not have been procured here.
Having made arrangements to have canoes and boatmen ready on Thursday morning, I left at
8 a. m., Sunday, for Chipigana, and reached the ship during the night. The position of Pinogana
was to be fixed by astronomical observations, and it was, therefore, made the initial point of thé
survey. After considerable thought, I decided that it would be preferable to commence operations
during the dry season at the mouth of the Paya and survey toward the divide, while our party
was fresh. Then returning resume the survey, working back toward the initial point, by
which the most distant portion would be performed with the full vigor of the party, while on the return
they would be stimulated with the fact that each mile brought them nearer the end ; and if the
rainy season commenced before we finished, the position would be much more accessible. Compass,
chain, and spirit-level were the instruments to be used on this portion of the line, requiring a larger
party than upon the Atlantic slope.
Party No. 2 was at once organized, under the command of Master J. G. Eaton ; surveying
operations in charge of Mr. Duvall, assistant engineer ; and Ensign Wiley and Passed Assistant
Surgeon Eussell accompanied the party, which was composed of ten sailors and nine macheta-men.
Mr. Eaton had been attached to the expedition of the past year, and to the experience there gained
he added a natural element of perseverance and good judgment, which gave me Ml confidence in
his ability as a leader of the little party who were to work out their solitary task in the wilds of
Darien.
We left the Resaca, February 22, in the steam -launch, with the fiat-boat " Tuyra77 in tow, and ten
days7 provisions in bulk, besides enough to subsist the entire party for five days. Each man had
been ordered to supply himself with one suit of flannel, a spare flannel shirt, a pair of dungaree
working-pants, two pairs of woolen socks, two pairs of shoes, and a straw hat. This comprised
the whole outfit of a single person, which could not be permitted to be increased, as clothing,
provision, and equipments had all to be transported forward, as they progressed, by the party
themselves, upon their backs. There were no roads, no habitations where our survey was located,
nothing but a wilderness, never visited by aught save an Indian. The orders issued to Messrs.
Eaton and Duvall were the same as those given to the Atlantic party, except so far as the character
of the survey required a change.
We arrived at Pinogana at 9 a. m. February 23, having anchored for the night off the mouth
of the Chucunaqua ; sent on shore and put up the observatory, and when about to proceed was
told by the man of whom I had engaged the canoes that his men had gone to the mountains.
There seemed no certain prospects of procuring others, but after a great deal of talking, bargain¬
ing, and waiting for them to get their paddles at one place, their polencas at another, to-say noth¬
ing of time spent in bidding their adieus, I succeeded in getting started at 3 p. m. in three canoes
with four canoe-men and the Tuyra. These were found sufficient to carry the whole, party with
provisions, &c., and our progress up stream was about one and one-half miles per hour, avoiding
the force of the current, which had a velocity of two knots, by keeping close to the bank.
At 5 p. m. we stopped for the night and hauled our boats up on a sandy playa. Tbe experience
of our first night was quite a pleasant one, no mosquitoes and but few sand-flies. Each one spread
his blanket on the sand, put up his mosquito-bar suspended to four little sticks, and by 8 p. m. the
whole camp was in a sound slumber. The dews on clear nights in Darien are very heavy, so that
a mosquito-bar serves a two-fold protection, from insects and night-dampness.
We were under way at 6.30 a. in., and at 10 o'clock came to the first rapids, but it was with
difficulty that the Tuyra kept up with the canoes, the current becoming more swift. In the after¬
noon took to poling the Tuyra, except where the river was deep and current slack. Had a great
52
DARIEN SHIP CANAL.
deal of trouble in hauling the boat over the rapids, the men not being accustomed to the work. At
4 p. m. passed the mouth of the Cupe, and just above came to the first hills, called the Paloma. At 5
p. m. stopped for the night at a pebbly playa twenty miles above Pinogana, the canoes arriving an
hour before the flat-boat. It became evident from the increased force of the rapids that much time
would be consumed in trying to go on with the Tuyra. I decided, therefore, to divide the party,
and send half ahead with the canoes, leaving the remainder in camp. Insect-annoyances increased
at this camp, but our bars still afforded sufficient protection.
Started at 7 a. m. with three canoes, and at 11 o'clock passed the mouth of the Pucro River.
The Paya Indians turn off here and ascend the Pucro, some three miles to the little village of
Tapalisa, where they take a path to the Paya village, about six hours' walk. Hills were now fre-
quent on both banks, and the bottom of the river in many places a mass of rock. In the afternoon
passed a hill some 300 feet high, which was almost perpendicular from the river, called by the
natives Loma de Diablo ; a row of peculiarly-shaped rocks, worn by the action of the climate, are
called Asientos de Diablo. The river at the foot of this hill was too deep to be sounded with poles.
At 5 p. m. came to for the night on a rocky playa, scraped away the stones, and made very
comfortable beds of leaves and twigs. Our canoe-men told us we could not reach the mouth of the
Pava before noon, when, to our surprise, we got there in an hour from our night's stopping-place.
They had deceived us for fear I might push ahead the same evening ; for, as they were paid by the
day, they preferred to make their stoppages as long and as frequent as possible.
Sunday, February 26, was passed in clearing the point at the Paya mouth for our camp. In
the afternoon I went up in a small canoe on a reconnoissance of the Tuyra, and found the country
on the right bank moderately low, but a great many rapids.
My orders to Mr. Eaton were to follow a southeast by south course till the Cue is reached, then
to survey up the valley of the latter to the divide, and connect his line with that from the Atlantic
side ; he was then to return and take up the survey from the Paya to Pinogana, following the left
bank of the Tuyra to the mouth of the Cupe, where he was to take a straight course for Pinogana.
I left the camp Monday morning, and arrived at where I had left the remainder of the party at
3 p. m. We had floated most of the way with the current, one negro in the bow with his polenca,
the other in the stern steering, a rate of progress agreeing very well with their lazy habits. They
are very skillful in shooting the rapids, rarely striking a rock. Thus far upon this trip we had
seen but little of animal life, though the roar of the black monkey was often heard in the distance.
I saw bnt one of them, perched in the top of a high tree, his ugly head just appearing above the
leaves, roaring out his guttural notes to a companion on the opposite bank. These monkeys, con¬
sidering their size, make a most hideous noise, and when heard for the first time would lead one to
suppose that it was some savage beast.
I found the remainder of the party all well, but glad enough to get away, as their stay had
attracted crowds of insects, which had become very annoying, and several of the men had been
bitten by vampire-bats. I had supposed that the stories of these bats sucking blood was a childish
fable ; but the numerous occasions, both here and afterward, on which men would wake up and
find their faces covered with blood proved it to be a reality.
Tuesday, February 28.—Party No. 2 left for the front at 7 a. in., and I started on my return
down the river in the flat-boat, reaching Pinogana at 4 p. m., atter a tiresome pull. I made on this
reconnoissance a complete traverse of the Tuyra River nearly up to the Cue, which will materially
assist the surveyors. Mr. Blake, in my absence, had obtained all the necessary sights for latitude,
but had been so unfortunate as to break the cross-hairs when adjusting his instrument, so that he
could get the transit of but a single star on one thread, which made it necessary for him to return
at a later period and complete his observations.
Wednesday, March 1.—Started at 7 a. m. on our return to the Resaca in the steam-launch, and,
as it was the period of neap-tides, the river was very low, and we soon ran aground. We worked
till 5. y. m. to get her afloat, taking out all movable articles and blowing the water out of the
boilers, but it was useless, as she was really drawing more water than was in the channel. I con¬
cluded, therefore, to leave her behind in charge of her crew, as it was vitally necessary that I
should return immediately to organize a provision-supply for the party at the front. I left the
launch at sunset in the Tuyra with three men besides myself and Mr. Blake. We had a long pull of
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL,
53
forty-eight miles before us with a heavy boat, but there was no other alternative. It was a beautiful
tropical night, the evening cool, and the firmament studded with stars glittering in the soft light of a
young moon. We reached the mouth of the Chucunaqua at 10 p. in., and tied up to a snag to
await the turn of the tide. Were under way again at 2 a. m.; the night had changed ; the moon
had set3 no stars were visible; and a pall of inky blackness, deepened by the shadows of the trees,
hung over the river. After frequent grounding, the intense darkness making it difficult to keep
in the channel, at day - break we reached Alligator Island, eighteen miles from Chipigana.
Here, in attempting to make a short cut, we grounded, and the tide fell so rapidly that in
fifteen minutes we were high and dry. There was nothing to do but patiently to wait for the
returning tide to float us off. To add to our discomforts, it was found that my orders to put pro¬
visions in the boat had been neglected, and there was nothing to satisfy the cravings of hunger,
increased by a long and hard pull. At 9 o'clock we floated, and sought the shade of a neighboring
bank till the ebb-tide would allow us to proceed. We finally reached the ship at 8 p. m. ; but half
an hour later we should have been compelled to pass another night on the river, for the flood-tide
would have been running up at the rate of three knots per hour.
In my absence the hydrographie work had progressed very satisfactorily. Much trouble was
met with in measuring a base-line, as the banks, covered with a dense growth, are nowhere
straight for any distance, and below high-water mark one sinks knee-deep into mud. A line 900
feet long was finally obtained in front of the town of Chipigana, which answered very well, as the
river at this point was not over half a mile wide. The triangulation and topography had been
done by Mr. Collins, and the hydrographie party, under Lieutenant Norris and Master Niles, had
worked up several miles of soundings. Much delay was experienced in the latter, as, from the
strength of the current, work could only be done at slack-water and the first quarter of the tide.
The work was all put in with the sextant, and the proof of its correctness lies in the fact that the
sum of the three angles of the triangles never differed more than 4/ from 180°, and rarely this dif¬
ference.
Master Kelley was dispatched with a supply of provisions to Pinogana, and I followed up in
a boat on the 6th of March, to finish our traverse of the river, and complete a contract for the
transportation of supplies to the mouth of the Paya. Leaving the ship at 10.30 a.m., reached the
mouth of the Chucunaqua, thirty-three miles, at 4.30 p. in., and Pinogana at 8 p. m. The tide at
the former is two hours later, and at the latter four hours later than at Chipigana, running up but
two hours, and this only during spring-tides in the dry season. Completed the contract with a
Senor Tovar, to dispatch weekly six hundred pounds of provisions at the rate of $75 a week.
This was an exorbitant price, but I could find no responsible xiarty who would do it for less.
As my absence at Cupica Bay would be a prolonged one, it became necessary, in order to in¬
sure a prompt dispatch of xirovisions from Pinogana, that an officer should be stationed there.
Master J. 1). J. Kelley was detailed for this duty, which he x^rformed with marked ability, as
much tact and good judgment were required in dealing with the natives, who are not only unreliable,
but knew very well that we were wholly dependent upon them.
He left for Pinogana March 10 in the steam-launch, with five weeks' full provisions, and or¬
ders to remain there till my return. Sub-Assistant Blake, of the Coast Survey, having made all
the necessary observations, returned about this time to New York.
We got under way for Cupica Bay at 7 a. m., March 11, passing Garachiné Point at 11 a. m.
The weather was beautiful, sea smooth, with a moderate breeze from the northward. In the after¬
noon passed the Jamestown beating up, with whom exchanged numbers. The coast the whole
distance south of Garachiné Point to Cape Marzo is very mountainous, rising up into peaks 2,000
to 3,000 feet high. Entered Cupica Bay at 8 a. in., March 12, and anchored off the mouth of Cupica
Biver.
9
THE SURVEY OF THE NAPIPI ROUTE. (Plates III, VIII.)
My attention had been first drawn to this route in a conversation with a negro, whom I met at
Turbo, Gulf of Darien. He informed me he had passed up the Napipi River in two days to the
foot of the hills, and thence in half a day to the Pacific Ocean. Though experience had taught
54
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
me to receive with much allowance any information from the natives, his reports of the character¬
istics of the country were such that I felt it my duty to reconnoiter it, and, if appearances were
favorable, to run a line of levels over it. For this purpose I had left behind at Pinogana ample
supplies to permit an absence of six weeks. The following upon this route is extracted from the
South American Pilot:
Cupica Bay is one of the best anchorages upon the coast, and has some celebrity in consequence of its being one of
the points proposed for the junction of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans by means of the Napipi River, which rises in
the hills some five miles to the eastward of the Pacific, and flows into the Atrato after a course of about seventeen
miles.
In 1847 the alcalde of Cupica gave some information on the subject, and conducted Captains Wood and Kellett,
R. N., to the stream by a rapid ascent, until a height of about 400 feet was gained, from whence it appears level till
they reached the Napipi ; from this point to the place where loaded bungoes stop, the estimated distance was twelve
miles. The Napipi is, however, only partially navigable, and unfitted for commerce.
Major Alvarez, a Colombian officer, who traveled from the Atrato up the Napipi River to Cupica Bay, describes
it as shallow, rapid, and rocky, passing over three sets of hills, and could conceive of no possibility of making a canal
between the Atrato and Pacific.
Captain Charles Friend, R. N., who explored the same ground in 1827, took four days to reach Cupica from the
Atrato, and gave a similar account, the rapids being considerable and frequently met with. On the other hand, it ap¬
pears to be a well-known fact that in 1820 a six-oared launch, belonging to the Chilian frigate Andes, was dragged
across the land from Cupica, an operation which occupied ten hours, was launched in the Napipi, and conveyed Colonel
Cancino and his suite without difficulty to the Atrato ; and it must be remembered that all who have visited this dis¬
trict have been passing hastily over it, and have naturally sought the best path, that is, the best traveling ground,
and not the lowest level.
This project is by no means new. It was suggested to the Spanish government by an intelligent Biscay pilot,
Gogueneche by name, at an early date, (when Spanish pilots v7ere sailing-masters ;) but so cautious were the Spaniards
to prevent, rather than encourage, any scheme that might facilitate access to the west coast of America, or extend a
knowledge of the mining-localities near the Darien Gulf, that it was prohibited, on pain of death, not only to navigate
the Atrato, or pass by that river, but even to propose to take advantage of it in any way as a route.
Vessels may anchor in any part of Cupica Bay, in a convenient depth of water. The nearest approach to the
Napipi is in Limon Bay on the eastern shore, the land above it being about 500 feet high, over which is a water-fall,
called Quebrada del Mar. The head of Cupica Bay is a sandy beach, about four and a half miles long, at the west extreme
of which is the mouth of the Cupica River ; on its banks, between it and the beach, there is a small village with some
plantations, from which vegetables can be obtained. The houses, like those to the southward, are built on piles ; in fact,
this style of building extends from the river Tumbez to Garachiné Point, at the entrance of the Bay of Panama.
Cruces Point is a lofty, struggling projection, with outlying rocky islets, extending two miles to the southward. High
water, Cupica Bay, full and change at 3h 30m ; rise beiug about 13 feet.
The illustrious Humboldt also drew public attention to the lowness of the hills at Cupica Bay,
though he never landed to give it his personal examination.
For the purpose of obtaining some knowledge of the country, and laborers for our operations,
I went on shore at Cupica Tillage in the morning, and saw the chief man, a Senor Perea, a Span¬
ish negro of considerable intelligence, and sufficient education to read and write. The village
consists of but half a dozen houses, miserably constructed, and the whole population does not
number more than one hundred, of which not more than one-fourth is able-bodied. They are
very poor, depending entirely upon their exportation of "tagua,77 or ivory-nuts, (for which they re¬
ceive $1 per barrel,) for the few necessities they require from the outside world.
The land upon Cupica River is very rich, and can furnish with little exertion all the plantains,
corn, and sugar-cane that the scanty population require. There are also still at Cupica two or
three families of Choco Indians, the remnants of a numerous tribe, who once peopled the whole
Atrato Valley. They are, as a class, inoffensive and docile, and not averse to labor, and seemed to
be flattered by being employed. In one respect the misfortunes of their tribe, handed down from
their ancestors, have instilled a lasting impression; and that is, never to reveal the existence of
gold. I once asked Antonio, an intelligent Indian, living on the Doguado River, if there was
gold in the mountains ; pointing up the river, he replied, u Yes.'7 I told him I would make him
very rich if he would show me, but he shook his head and replied that his people would kill him.
Senor Perea corroborated the reports of the lowness of the Napipi line, but told me canoes
could not be obtained nearer than the Atrato, which would take several days. I concluded to com¬
mence a regular survey at once, and accordingly contracted with him to keep me supplied with
four laborers daily, and also to send at once to the Atrato for three canoes. Monday morning we
FALLS OF QUE BRADA DLL MAR, LIMOX BAY.
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL
55
got under way and proceeded over to the mouth of Limon River, where the trail to the Napipi
begins, and anchored in ten fathoms of water, a thousand yards from the shore. It is a small but
beautiful harbor ; the hills, which rise almost perpendicularly from the beach, are covered with a
dense growth of the brightest green ; the view of the shore is very picturesque, embracing bold
cliffs, little islets, sandy coves, and numerous small streams trickling through the sand, together
with the water-fall, called Quebrada del Mar, which is visible from the sea, leaping from a height of
300 feet. Though open to the southwest, it would be perfectly protected by a small jettee upon the
reefs, and ships could in large numbers always make a lee under Punta Cruces.
Party No. 3, for the survey of the Napipi route, was placed under the general charge of Master
Fred. Collins. With him was associated Ensign Paine, and his party consisted in addition of five
sailors and four natives. Surveying operations were carried on entirely with the gradienter, which
enabled us to keep them supplied without difficulty with provisions, and materially hastened the
work.
Party No. 3 encamped on shore on the afternoon of March 13, preparatory to the commence¬
ment of their survey the following day. My orders to Mr. Collins were to run a transit and level-
line over the trail to the Napipi River, thence down that river till it was too deep to wade, when
he would triangulate from bank to bank till the Atrato was reached.
Tuesday afternoon, March 14, I took a walk over the trail to the Napipi. The path ran over
a succession of ascending ridges, some very precipitous and climbed with difficulty. The crest of
the ridge is rarely over 12 feet wide and in some places not more than 5 feet, and so steep on the side
of the Limon River that one can almost look .upon the top of the trees beneath. If the latter
were cleared away it would make one of the grandest gorges in the world. The general direction
of the ridge is east, and in an hour and a quarter I reached the head-waters of the Limon River.
Our path then led over an elevated plateau for three-quarters of a mile to the Napipi, with a rise
of but 20 feet, which may be said to constitute the divide, for both rivers, flowing east and west,
rise in the same elevated plain. The Napipi here is a small stream, probably in the rainy season
not exceeding 75 feet in width and 8 feet in depth. The scenery was very beautiful. A pretty
little sand-beach, the trees arching from bank to bank, and the river coursing merrily over the
pebbles, its faint murmurings the sole interruption to a stillness that marked a solitude almost
painful. A careful series of barometrical readings from my pocket-aneroid gave the height of
the Napipi at 50G, and the highest point at 570 feet, which is about 30 feet less than the true height
as shown on the projection of the profile.
The Limon River for about 3,000 feet from the sea to the falls has a width in its bed of about
250 feet, and lies between high hills on each side, with a moderate rise in this distance of about 70
feet. The falls have a leap of 250 feet over hard rock, and in the rainy reason, when the volume of
water is large, must be very magnificent. The scenery in the vicinity is both picturesque and
grahd. A deep basin receives the cool falling waters, the spray from which forms tiny rainbows
in the noonday sun ; moss-covered rocks surround it ; while above tower high hills festooned with
dense masses of vines. This valley or gorge is particularly interesting as affording a site for the
system of locks embraced in the plan of a canal by this route.
Party No. 3 reached the Napipi writh their survey 011 the morning of March 17, making the
highest point of the line 612 feet above the sea-level. Twenty-five men were dispatched from the
Resaca to carry three weeks' provisions, amounting to 1,150 pounds, over the hills to Mr. Collin's
camp. Some trouble was met with the native laborers, who had got tired of such regular work,
and deserted camp early one morning. But their places were supplied after some little difficulty*
Tuesday morning.—Intelligence having come that the surveyors had struck a high hill over
which the trail ran, and the passing of which with the provisions would consume much time, I
dispatched twenty men under Lieutenant Norris to their assistance. This hill, which we called
Mount Jordan, is about 400 feet high, but so steep that the crest is not over 8 feet, and the base
but a few hundred feet wide. The Napipi rushes by the foot of it through a rocky gorge.
Thursday, March 23.—News having reached us that the canoes from the Atrato had at last
reached Rancho Grande, the head of canoe-navigation on the Napipi, I made preparations for an
extended reconnaissance of this route.
56
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Friday, March 24.—Left the beach at 9 a. m. with my steward and eight days' provisions for
four men. Our line of march led over the hills, following the track of the surveyors ; on one side
could be heard the roar of the surf, on the other the cataracts of Limon River. In an hour and a
half we reached the Napipi River, and after a short rest proceeded forward over the Indian trail.
This leads alternately from one side of the river to the other, as far as the Jucal range, (of which
is Mount Jordan,) through which the river has forced its way. To this point the country is undu¬
lating, the trail passing over a large extent of flat land, with occasional hills, none over one hun¬
dred feet high. After crossing this range, the country continues broken for three or four miles,
which is finallyJost in a splendid and gradual descent to the Atrato.
Reached Rancho Grande at 3.15 p. m., twelve miles from the sea, in little more than six hours,
including an hour for lunch, and did not feel much fatigued, which is a good test of the general
evenness of the country. The Indian trail terminates here, the Napipi being, from this point down,
navigable for canoes at its lowest stage. The trail from the sea to Rancho Grande deserves par¬
ticular notice. It is about 14 feet wide and* in some places sufficiently clear and level to drive a
two-horse team. It is entirely clear of trees, though passing generally through a thick forest-
growth, and in many places has been cut out from the sides of the hills, where the mossy covering
shows it to be of ancient excavation. None of the inhabitants of Oupica Village could give me
any information concerning itsjconstruction, and, doubtless, it must have been made either by the
early Spainards, or else an Indian highway before the conquest; an additional proof of the gen¬
eral adaptability of this route over other portions of Darien.
Saturday, March 25.—The surveying-party-embarked this morning, with all the stores and
equipments, in the two largest canoes; the survey having been brought up to Rancho Grande.
Heretofore they have been obliged to establish camps every three miles, and transport all their
material on their backs. Now, however, one canoe will pass down and establish camp at such a
distance ahead as can probably be worked up to during the day. This will make the survey much
easier, which, up to this period, has been very arduous, working over a rough river-bottom, or knee-
deep in water. Thus far I was happy to find that they enjoyed excellent health and were in the
best of spirits.
I embarked in the smallest canoe, with seven days' provisions and two canoe-men ; passed
several rapids with not much fall, but so shallow as to compel me to disembark and walk around
them. Rut few hills were met with during the forenoon, and but two as high as 150 feet above
the river. At noon we came to the mouth of the Guinea River, on the right bank, and at 1 p. m.
reached the Doguado River, the principal tributary, and as large as the Napipi itself. From this
point to the Atrato, the country appeared a vast plain, with low hills at rare intervals, and no
rivers to indicate broken country in the interior. The banks preserve a uniform height of about
12 feet, and the drift on the trees indicates a high-water mark during the rainy season of 14 feet
above present level, or, in other words, the whole country is overflowed, during the rains, to the
depth of two feet; but it is not probable that this occurs often during the year, and any excava¬
tion along the banks could be protected by moderate levees.
At 5. p. m. stopped for the night on a sandy playa ; had no time to build a rancho, so I
pitched my canvas cot and mosquito-bar, and soon after supper was off in a sound slumber, well
earned by the fatigues of the day. Canoe-navigation to those unaccustomed to it, from the
cramped posture one is obliged to maintain, is not conducive to comfort.
Sunday morning.—So far our canoe had been propelled by polencas, but the river was now too
deep, and paddles had to be substituted ; one man, in the bow, paddling, the other steering, and both
keeping up a constant chatter through the whole day. No inconvenience, to speak of, had been felt
from mosquitoes, though the sand-flies near the close of the day became very annoying. The features
of the country had undergone a marked change since noon. The playas were no longer of sand,
the bottom of the river muddy, and rock was rarely seen. We had been much delayed by snags
and fallen trees, the latter in some places almost completely blocking up the river, leaving an open¬
ing barely wide enough for our small canoe to pass. The banks being of alluvial formation are
constantly changing during the high water, undermining the trees, which, not being water-borne,
sink, and form these obstructions. Stopped early in the afternoon at a rancho on the right bank,
FALLS LIMON RIVER, NAPIPI ROUTE
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
-57
there being no point below suitable for a camp. This rancho was merely a frame-work of poles,
covered with leaves of the blanca palma, affording, however, a sufficient shelter from showers, of
which we are having more or less every night.
Monday, March 27.—Left at the usual hour, and at 9 a. in. came to what are known as the uPal-
izadas Grandes," a huge drift-pile, completely blocking up the river, except close to the left bank,
where it had cut out a little channel over sunken logs. I got out and climbed over it, while our boat¬
men hauled the canoe to the clear river below. Large deposits from the river had collected upon this
pile; grass was growing in some places, ana in a short while vegetation will spring up on the more
elevated parts, and firm ground will be formed. The river will cut for itself a new channel, and in a
few years large trees will be growing over what was once the river-bed. That this process is going on
was evident from the fact that in many places, in this part of the river, could be seen a substratum
of logs and decayed leaves many feet below the surface, over which grew trees of the largest size.
At noon we reached the Atrato, three days and a half from the Pacific; and as I emerged from the
confined limits of the Napipi, and beheld this magnificent river half a mile wide, and 30 feet deep
even at this distance from the sea, rolling on in its might, I could not but experience an over¬
powering sense of its grandeur. Stopped at a fisherman's house on the right bank of the Atrato,
whose owner, a sambo, (a term applied to those of mixed Indian and negro blood,) received us very
hospitably. In the afternoon dispatched a letter to Commander Lull by a passing barquetona
bound to Cartagena, that I wished him to make a survey of the Atrato from the Napipi to its
mouth. My canoe-men declared that they would not return until I had procured for them some
plantains, saying that American food made them sick. I did not like to let them go in search of
them alone for fear they might get drunk and not return ; so after dinner I started up the river in
our canoe for Yigia Fuerte, a village some ten miles distant. It became dark before we could
reach it, and as I had been all day in the canoe, and in consequence much fatigued, I determined I
would go no farther. Fortunately, at a fisherman's hut, a bunch of plantains was procured, or
there might have been a dead-lock, for this fruit is as necessary for the diet of these natives as
potatoes are to an Irishman. The floor of the hut was covered with piles of fish, resembling
mullet, evidently not long caught, that the whole family were engaged in cleaning and salting,
(producing a most unpleasant odor,) after which process the fish are dried in the sun and packed
in small bundles. There is a fishing-hut located about every half-mile on the river, and the fish,
which appear to be very plentiful, are caught in weirs. They form one of the staple articles of food
for all the natives of the Atrato Valley.
Tuesday, March 28.—Left on our return at 7 a. m. Our progress up stream was slow, the canoe
being pushed up against the current, which ran at a rate of about one and a half miles per hour,
and we did not get above the rancho where we had passed the last night on the Napipi. It rained
hard during the night and following day, which seemed to have the effect of bringing the whole
feathered tribe to the banks of the river. Never, in Harien, had I seen such a variety of birds ;
at least twenty different species, from the brilliant u toucan," with its bright yellow neck, to the
little u chucara," the best of all the songsters, or rather whistlers, for none of the tropical birds
equal those of the temperate zone in beauty of note. Conspicuous among them was the u carpen-
teros," or woodpecker, very similar to ours, except the addition of a bright scarlet tuft on the head,
resembling a cocked bat. Numerous flocks of wild turkeys were seen, but we succeeded in killing
but one, they being very shy and lighting on the highest trees. We met with Mr. Collins and
party on the way up, who were progressing very satisfactorily. Upon reaching the Doguado, sent
one of the men for an Indian, called Antonio, to guide us by land to Rancho Grande. With the
additional aid of Antonio we advanced rapidly, and reached the Guinea River at 3 p. m. We left
the canoe here and started overland over an elevated ridge with a deep valley on the left. The
trail, rarely traveled now, was nearly obliterated, and the skill with which the Indian picked up
the path was admirable. Antonio kept saying u Poco tiempo," and led us on at a killing pace, till
we reached Rancho Grande about dark. Here we had the first good rest since leaving the Atrato,
as we had moved too rapidly to construct any shelters at night, and were obliged to roll ourselves
in our blankets and lie out in the rain.
Left Rancho Grande early in the morning and reached the Pacific at noon, having made the
H. Mis. 113 8
58
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
whole round trip, from the ocean to the Atrato and return, in a little more than seven days. This
reconnaissance has developed much more favorable results than I could have hoped, for in what
other part of the continent will a survey open out a route only thirty-one miles long, of which
twenty miles is a plain ? While the rock among the hills is of the hardest and densest description,
standing well the decomposing influence of the climate, that on the lower ground is soft enough to be
cut with a pick-ax. It had now become necessary for the Resaca to return to Panama to obtain
a fresh supply of stores, which place was reached on the morning of April 1. While I was
exceedingly anxious to complete the survey of the Napipi, my time there was necessarily limited
by the fact that the force engaged on the Tuyra would shortly exhaust their provisions. The safety
of this party, left upon their own resources, had in my absence given me much anxiety, which at
Panama was happily dispelled by intelligence received there of their continued good health.
We sailed from Panama April 6, and reached Chipigana the next day. Our object in coming was
to dispatch a boat-load of provisions to Pinogana, by which I could remain so much longer at Cu-
pica, and finish the work there without fail. As time was pressing, I went up with the supplies,
and made the round trip to Pinogana and back, ninety-six miles, in a day and a half. Found Dr-
Maacke, our geologist, at the latter place, he having arrived from the Atlantic, via the Isthmus*
during my absence at Cupica.
The Resaca got under way again for Oupica Bay, Sunday, April 9th, and arrived at the old
anchorage, Limon Bay, on Monday. While awaiting the return of party No. 3, the geologist was
profitably employed in examining into the geological structure of the hills and country upon the
surveyed route. For fear that their supply of provisions might not enable them to finish, Lieutenant
Norris was dispatched with a week's supply to Rancho Grande, and a note forwarded by an Indian
to Mr. Collins, informing him of the fact. To my delight and surprise Collins and party made
their appearance on the beach at noon, April 18, and after reducing their level line to mean-tide
level by the tidal staff which had been established for the purpose, came on board. Messrs. Col¬
lins and Paine and their associates are entitled to the highest praise for the ability and celerity
with which they have performed their work. The level line from the ocean to the Atrato is sixty-
eight and a half miles long, and most of their work has obliged them to pass the greater portion of
their time in the water, while all this has been accomplished in the short space of five weeks. Mr.
Collins has displayed abilities of the highest order ; to his skill as a surveyor, his tact in managing his
men, his attention to my orders, and his good judgment in husbanding his provisions, I am indebted
for this most excellent survey of the Napipi route.
The position of the mouth of the Napipi as established by this survey is : Latitude, 6° 37' 27"
north. Longitude 76° 55' 45" west of Greenwich. The Atrato was ascertained to be 40 feet above
the mean tide-level of the Pacific.
Our work at this point having been completed, we sailed immediately for Chipigana. On our
way up we ran close into the coast off the mouth of the Paracuchichi River, the Pacific terminus of
the Truando line for an interoceanic canal. We found the surf breaking heavily upon the bar at the
mouth, and there was not the slightest indentation of the coast upon which to construct a harbor.
Three distinct ranges of hills were to be seen, of which the second was quite as high as those at
Limon Bay, and the divide I should judge to be not less than 1,500 feet, while I could not discover,
from my point of view, the depression spoken of by Michler in his report.
Upon our returfi to Darien Harbor, preparations'were at once made to finish the uncompleted
hydrographie work. The hydrography was-still in charge of Lieutenant Norris and Master Niles,
and I undertook to complete the triangulation and topography from Chipigana to the mouth of
the Savana River. Subsequently a running survey of the remainder of the Tuyra Rivêr to Santa
Maria, the termination of our level line, was made, distances being measured by angling on a
fixed base, (a boat's mast,) and the prominent points of the opposite shore put in by a sextant,
soundings being taken in the channel as well as the crossings. The hydrographie work was all
completed by May 22.
CONTINUATION OF THE SURVEY OF THE TUYRA ROUTE. (Plate IX.)
A detail of the hardships and difficulties experienced by the party placed in charge of the sur-
DAEIEN SHIP-CANAL.
59
vey of this route would fill many pages, and no one but an eye-witness could justly portray the
privations endured.
As will be remembered, I left one-half of party No. 2 at the mouth of the Paya, Pebruary 27,
and the remainder joined their comrades the next day. The orders I left for them were to follow a
southeast by south course as the shortest line to the Cuë Eiver, but this direction was found to
bring them out on abend of the Paya Eiver, so a course more to the southward was substituted.
Though the line adopted was not more than half a mile from the river Tuyra, the country devel¬
oped a net-work of steep hills and ravines, which, together with very thick cutting, made the sur¬
vey extremely slow, laborious, and difficult. It must be remembered that though provisions were
brought in canoes from Pinogana to Paya Eiver weekly, this party were obliged to transport the
whole amount, some 600 pounds per week, to their camp, which became more and more arduous as
the survey progressed.
The country as seen from the rise between the Paya and Cue Eivers presents a flat appear-
ance, showing how deceptive and faulty any judgment must be, based upon such a view, the dense
foliage on the banks really preventing any knowledge of the topography any distance from the
river ; for in this case, as I have said, a half mile back, not a yard of level ground was met with.
Owing to the sickness of Mr. Duvall and others, of fever, they did not reach the Cuë till
March 13, on a surveyed course of 19,200 feet. The Cuë was about 70 feet wide at its mouth, and
its elevation 24 feet above the Paya.
It had been my intention, and so stated in the instructions, to follow nearly a straight line in
the valley of the Cuë, rather than the bed of the river. But as soon as the river was left, the hills,
though not high, were so frequent and steep, that it was found impossible to transport their pro¬
visions over them, and a line up the bed of the river was taken. Occasionally, table-land was met
with, but not often. At certain points they suffered severely from mosquitoes, and, as their journal
records, they were sometimes obliged to leave camp and take refuge on the rocks in the river to
escape them. After the 16th of March they experienced more or less rain, a proof that the wet
season commences much earlier in the interior than on the coast.
Saturday, March 25, a tributary of the Cuë was struck nearly, as large as the river itself,
called the Mono. I am confident that a course up the Mono would have brought them very near
the portion of the divide that I crossed in the preceding January. Could I have communicated
with them at this time I should have directed this course to have been followed, which, though not
affecting the general result, would no doubt have developed the most favorable line in this part of
Darien. The lack of any maps, and therefore the absence of any topographical knowledge of the
country, for no one but myself had either crossed or had had opportunities of studying the relative
bearings of different positions, fully justified Mr. Eaton in keeping in the Cuë, while my absence
at Cupica Bay prevented him from consulting with me.
On Sunday, March 26, two Indians came into camp with a note from Lieutenant Couden, com¬
manding party No. 1, and in the afternoon this officer and Mr. Barnes made their appearance in
camp. They reported that their line had reached the divide, and was being run along the crest.
Here the want of maps or any correct knowledge of the country again manifested itself, for they
had crossed much too far to the southward, and at an elevation of 1,200 feet. Messrs. Couden
and Barnes started to rejoin their party March 28th.
March 29th, camp was established at the beginning of the Indian trail to Paya, about two and
one-half miles above Mono Eiver, and ten and one-half miles above the mouth of the Cuë, at an
elevation of 243 feet above sea-level. By April 5th, party No. 2 had reached the forks of the Cuë,
twenty miles from the mouth, at an elevation of 513 feet. The party at this time had been reduced,
by sickness incident to exposure and the severe labor of transporting provisions, to eight, all told,
out of twenty-four, the original number. Mr. Eaton, though suffering very much from lameness,
showed a noble example of endurance, and Mr. Duvall had also kept up, though weakened by re¬
peated attacks of fever. Mr. Wiley and Dr. Eussell were the only officers really fit for duty, and
the latter had returned to the mouth of the Paya with the sick.
At Camp 11, at the forks, it had been understood that party No. 2 were to await instructions
from party No. 1 where to connect the line. But there was some misunderstanding, and four days
were wasted in waiting and sending out in every direction for traces of the Atlantic party. By
60
DABIEN SHIP-CANAL.
this time their provisions had run very low, there was no longer the strength to transport any
more forward, and there was great fear lest a failure should take place in connecting the lines. On
the afternoon of April 9, however, a messenger arrived from Mr. Couden ; and Mr. Eaton, leaving
immediately, by camping out at night, reached the camp of party No. 1 in the morning. Here he
found Couden and Barnes, both down with fever, which accounted for the delay. Energetic meas¬
ures were at once taken, and at 9.50 a. m., April 11, party No. 2 had the satisfaction of blazing their
B. M. 34, altitude 763.5 feet, on the same tree on the divide as was B. M. 47 of party No. 1.
No time was now to be lost by Mr. Eaton and party in returning, for there were but two days'
provisions remaining. The Cue Biver was by this time so swollen by rains that it was not possible
to walk by the river-bed; the party were weary and foot-sore, and as they had no provisions to wait
the falling of the water, it was determined to attempt to reach the Paya village, and trust to the
hospitality of the Indians for food, shelter, and conveyance. Upon reaching Paya they were kindly
received, a house provided to lodge in, and provisions were furnished them. The next morning
the whole party, eight in number, embarked in one canoe, and left at 7.15 a. m., for the mouth of
the Paya, where they arrived at 4 o'clock the same afternoon. Here they found the remainder of
party No. 2, who from their rest of the past week had pretty much recovered their strength.
There now remained for this party the survey of the ground between their present camp and
Pinogana, along the left bank of the Tuyra, as far as the Cupe Biver, where a direct course would
be taken to Pinogana.
Judging from the appearance of the country from the river, I had supposed it would be gene¬
rally level, with but occasional hills ; but, so far from this being the case, though the line was rarely
three-quarters of a mile from the river, it encountered a continuation of broken and hilly country,
some of the hills rising 400 feet above the river. Attempts were made to turn them, but what ap¬
peared hills from the river were in reality ridges, which increased in height and ruggedness as
one penetrated more into the interior.
Three weeks I had thought would be sufficient to finish this portion of the survey, but the
mouth of the Cupe Biver was not reached till May 15, a date that I had given as the farthest
for the completion of the whole survey of the Pacific slope. We were now in the midst of the
rainy season, which nof only greatly increased the labor of the survey and proneness to sickness,
but made it almost impossible, and therefore very unreliable, to send provisions up the Tuyra, by
reason of the swiftness of the current, which would sometimes have a velocity of five knots. All.
this I had foreseen, but I had never supposed we should have been caught so late in the season
with our work uncompleted. Fortunate it was that I had commenced at Paya and worked toward
the divide, as it would have been utterly out of the question to have attempted any operations at
such a distance, with the weather such as we experienced at this period.
Another annoyance occurred at this time in the refusal of our native men to work any more,
on the plea that their time was up. Severe measures would have been taken, if necessary, to en¬
force obedience, but the catastrophe that took place about the time of the mutiny involved all in
the same disaster.
Party No. 2 reached the mouth of the Cupe, May 15, in a little over a month, from the mouth -
of the Paya, upon a surveyed line of 70,000 feet. On the night of May 17, (the river for some
days previous having been very high,) during very heavy rains, the water rose over the banks and
inundated the country. For a detail of this eventful night, I will draw upon the log of the officer
in charge. "At 11.30 p. m., river rose over the banks and flooded camp. Took candles and started
back in hopes of reaching high ground. • Waded neck-deep, candles went out, and was glad to
get back. Secured instruments and provisions in trees. At midnight, water being two feet deep
in camp and rising, took to the trees ourselves.- Water continued to rise till 4 a. m., when the
camp was from 4 to 7 feet under water. Flood commenced to subside very slowly at 4.30 a. m.
Total rise of river above high water, 15 feet. All hands perched on trees all night, from which we
came down at 7 o'clock, waist-deep in water, and managed, after some difficulty, in making a fire
upon a raft, to cook some coffee* As the river was falling very slowly, gave the order to con¬
struct rafts and return to Pinogana. Left the camp at 10 a. m., on a raft, and arrived in 4J hours.
These rafts were constructed of the bolsa tree, a wood as light as cork."
,DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
61
This misfortune of party No. 2 filled me with much apprehension and discouragement. The
country at this period was almost impassable from the rains, the streams swollen to overflowing,
and the hill-sides slippery from mire ; besides, with no maps of the country, it was difficult to lay
out a course from Pinogana that would strike the camp where operations were suspended. To be
sure, the river-bank could be followed, but this would have made a line twelve miles long, much
too great a task under the circumstances. I resolved to go up in person and remain at the front
till our line was connected and survey completed.
Party No. 2 recommenced work on Friday, May 19, from the initial point on the plain of
Pinogana, the refractory native men having consented to go to work. In the mean while the line
from our observatory at Pinogana to Santa Maria had been surveyed, leveled, and reduced to mean
tide at the latter place.
On Tuesday, May 23,1 left for the front, with several men to replace those who were sick, and
arrived at Pinogana the same night. Found Mr. "Wiley quite sick there and sent him back to the
ship. Wrent out in the morning to camp, some two miles distant ; the trail was very muddy and
slippery, leading over low but steep hills, and the walking was very fatiguing. The survey was
about 12,000 feet ahead of camp. Messrs. Eaton and Duvall returned at dark completely prostrated
from their day's labor, and it was evident they would not again be able to continue with the survey.
The next day we moved camp to the end of the line, which consumed about the whole of it.
The country was as bad as any I had seen, a continuation of hills about 100 feet high, with very
steep sides and deep ravines between, which caused, from the miry and slippery nature of the soil,
great exhaustion in clambering over them.
Next morning went to work, myself at compass and Mr. Stokes at the level ; cut and surveyed
7,000 feet, the macheta-men working hard at the prospect of a speedy end to their labors. The
ground was a severe one to level over, for the numerous hills required an immense number of sta¬
tions for the level, but Mr. Stokes handled his instrument so well that at night he was but 4,000
feet behind.
Sunday, May 28.—It was necessary to continue our work to-day, for our stock of provisions
was very low and it was impossible to get forward any over the trail, except in very small quanti¬
ties. Shortly after commencing work we struck low country, and at noon reached the Oupe River,
some distance above its mouth, where we rested for the day.
Monday and Tuesday were occupied in working down the Cupe ; country flat and level and
subject to overflow. On Wednesday the survey was finished, and on Thursday the whole party
came in completely worn out, having had nothing but plantains to eat for the preceding twenty-
four hours.
We bade good-bye to Pinogana and its dusky inhabitants with joy and delight, at the prospect
of this delectable country with its hills, swamps, and insects knowing us no more; and reached the
Resaca at 4 a. m., June 2d.
Thus had ended the labors of party No. 2, after an absence of one hundred days from the ship.
They had run in this time a level-line fifty-eight and one-fourth miles long, through dense forests, over
precipitous hills, deep ravines, and almost impassable swamps. No exploring party had ever remained
absent so long, I may well venture to say, on this Isthmus, from any inhabited spot. Their record
shows a patient endurance of hardship, a determination undismayed by sickness, and a zeal in
the prosecution of their work, that redounds greatly to their credit. Sailors share alike with their
officers the honor due this party, and I could have wished it was in my power to bestow some more
substantial reward than merely my thanks.
Mr. Eaton showed all the qualifications of a leader for his little band, and Messrs. Wiley,
Duvall, and Stokes evinced at all times a most praiseworthy zeal in a work calculated to dampen
the ardor of the most enthusiastic ; while to the unceasing care of Dr. Fussell is due much of the
good health that enabled this party to pursue, unremittingly, the survey, and prevented a relapse
of sickness after a return on ship-board.
The surveys, both topographic and hydrographie* being completed, and the information neces¬
sary for the determination of the adaptability of this portion of the Isthmus of Darien having been
acquired, the expedition returned in the Resaca to Panama on the 3d of June, to await the arrival
of the Guard at Aspinwall from the Gulf of Darien.
62
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
OPERATIONS OF THE ATLANTIC DIVISION. (Plates IV, V, VI.)
A minute detail of the work performed by that portion of the expedition operating from the
Atlantic coast will be found in the report of Commander Lull, accompanying this.
It will be remembered that I left the Guard in the Gulf of Darien in February, with the *
necessary stores and equipments for the survey from the Pacific coast, leaving Commander Lull in
charge of the Atlantic Division. This comprised a hydrographie survey of that portion of the
gulf called by us " Columbia Bay," the survey and leveling of a line from the mouth of the Atrato
via this river and the Cacarica to the divide, connecting with the one from the Pacific slope ; a
further survey on the crest of the divide to ascertain the lowest pass; a hydrographie survey of
the Atrato from the sea to the mouth of the Napipi River ; and a reconnoissance of what was known
as De Puydt's Route.
The information obtained on my trip made me anxious if possible to obtain a more feasible
route to reach the same point of the divide. My illness prevented a personal examination, and I
dispatched Mr. Barnes to examine the Peranchita, a more southerly branch, which was reported
to run about parallel for some distance with the Cacarica. Mr. Barnes, upon his return, having
reported the general aspect of the country as more level, and less difficult for the transportation
of supplies, I concluded to adopt it. A party was organized and placed in charge of Master Cou-
den, accompanied by Messrs. Barnes and Beach and Midshipman Salter. They arrived at the
Loma de Cacarica the evening of February 6.
The next day they proceeded up to the Cacarica Lake, and entered the Rayo River, thence
into the Peranchita. The country for some distance continued too low and swampy for leveling,
and from various delays bench-mark No. 1, was not established till February 9.
This party and all others who were afterward obliged to pass through these swamps suffered
fearfully from mosquitoes, and the only relief from them was obtained by making a cotton bottom
to the mosquito-bar, with a slit in it, by which one became enveloped, as might be said, in a bag.
Truly necessity is the mother of invention.
The country continued low for six miles, rising in this distance but six feet, the banks of the
river becoming firm, and covered with a dense growth of vines and wild plantains. The survey
was pushed on from this point more rapidly up the bed of the river, which had become sufficiently
shallow to work in. At an elevation of about 100 feet above bench-mark No. 1, and at a distance
of about thirteen miles from this point, the line reached the forks of the river. Here, though both
streams were reconnoitered, an unfortunate mistake was made in taking the more westerly one,
which led them too far to the south, and compelled a long and laborious work upon the divide, to
reach a point adjacent to the head-waters of the eastern fork. Party No. 1 was nine days in reach¬
ing the divide by the west fork, a distance of 20,229 feet, while it took but seven days to run the
survey from the divide to the same point upon their return. Twenty-two days were occupied upon
the divide in attempting to run a line along the crest, during which they progressed but 13,085
feet, and the altitude decreased 400 feet in this distance. The thick forest growth prevented any
opportunities for knowing the general direction of the crest of the divide, and nothing was visible
beyond the line of actual survey. Numerous spurs put out in every direction, some of which
would be followed as the true divide, and the error, shown by a sudden descent, would compel the
abandonment of the work of the day. In this way whole days would have to be spent in looking
for the true divide, only to lose it again, perhaps unknowingly, after a few hours' labor. The only
course to be pursued in such a case would be to run a direct compass-course approximating as
near as possible to the true direction, and then, by frequent offsets to the divide, correct the line
from time to time. Had the eastern fork been taken, which gave a line 400 feet less in altitude,
much time and labor would have been saved, and doubtless the surveyors could have reached their
objective point, where I crossed on my reconnoissance to Paya. It was an error of judg¬
ment for which no blame can be attached, for there were no maps to give any idea of the relative
bearings of different positions, no one but myself had had the opportunity of giving the subject
such attention as to acquire a general knowledge of localities, and the distance was too great and
time too valuable to send for instructions from head-quarters. The difficulties encountered and the
laborious task of carrying their provisions up to such an altitude, told heavily upon the party, and
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
68
upon deciding to return after connecting with the survey from the Pacific, Mr. Beach was the only
officer fit for duty. A'gratifying feature of this survey was the check-levels from the divide to
the forks, which gave excellent proof of the correctness in leveling attainable w7ith the gradienter.
This instrument, as has been described, is very much lighter and the telescope shorter than the
engineer's level, yet, though the line was ten miles long and passed over a very abrupt ascent of
600 feet, and back down an equal declivity, the difference of level upon joining the two lines
amounted to less than two-tenths of a foot. There was much difficulty experienced in keeping up
a regular supply of provisions for this party, which added to their hardships. They returned to
the ship on the 25th of April, after an absence of two months and a half. In the mean while bench¬
mark No. 1 had been connected with the mouth of the Cacarica by a line of courses and distances
by Master J. G. Sullivan. It was found impossible to level between these points, the swampy
ground affording no spot firm enough for instrument or rod. Later in the season the water had
fallen so much as to leave no current in the Cacarica, and nature in producing this state of equilib¬
rium furnished us with a level ; observations at both bench-mark No. 1 and the Loma, gave the
former an elevation of 7 feet above the latter. Mr. Sullivan also carried a level-line down the
Atrato to the sea, which gave the height of the mouth of the Cacarica as 13 feet above sea-level.
Word having reached me at Pinogana from Mr. Eaton, of the intention of party No. 1 to
return after connecting their line, and not knowing the circumstances w7hich compelled this
course, I dispatched orders that the survey should be continued on the crest of the divide until
the point where I had crossed it was reached.
This order, however, was not received by Commander Lull till May 6. A party was at once
organized under Master Couden and Beach to carry out these instructions. They reached the
divide in five days from the ship, but found upon setting up their instrument that their level
was useless from the leaking of the spirit in the tube. A spare tube which they had brought with
them was found not to fit. There was nothing to be done but return to the ship, which they
accordingly reached May 17, after an absence of ten days.
The rainy season, which was in full fprce, made it almost impossible to transport provisions, as
a man would consume on a trip as much as he could carry.
Commander Lull, however, anxious to leave no steps untried to carry out my wishes, organized
a third party under Master J. G. Sullivan, who arrived, after a toilsome and painful trip of seven
days, at the top of the divide. The difficulties previously described admitted of but little progress.
The dense growth of timber made it impossible to obtain any knowledge of the situation beyond
the trail that had been cut, and time was fruitlessly lost upon different lines, which would prove to
be but outlying spurs. Retarded also by heavy rains, they did not in twro weeks progress more
than 2,500 feet over what was the true divide. Mr. Sullivan's party suffered great privations from
the lack of proper food, and many of them became prostrated with fever. Finally, on the 7th of
June, having nothing in camp but two days' rations of rice, Mr. Sullivan felt it his duty to return.
On their way back they obtained a small supply of provisions, and finally reached tbe Guard on
the 19th of June, after an absence of little more than a month.
The experience of this party showed the utter impossibility of surveying in this country any
distance from the base of supplies during the rainy season, from the inability to transport provis¬
ions.
Although we did not succeed in reaching with the level-line the position at which I
crossed the divide, which is undoubtedly the lowest point in the Cordilleras, this fact does not
affect in any degree the knowledge necessary to decide upon the merits of this route. This point
was found to be, by my aneroid barometer, not less than 410 feet, and as an elevation much under
this altitude, as previously explained, compels the adoption of a tunnel wherever a line may be
located upon this route, the tunnel question cannot be avoided.
While these events, as described, were taking place, the hydrographie survey of Columbia
Bay had4steadily progressed to completion. The work had been done by Commander Lull, assisted
by Master Hawley and Midshipman Hunker, and comprised ninety-seven signals established,
eighty-five miles of shore-line laid down, and three hundred and thirty miles of soundings run; in
the determination of which 1,350 angles and 14,944 soundings had been taken.
64
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Commander Lull, accompanied by Master J. P. Merrell, with his gig and its crew, left the
Guard on the 16th of April, for the purpose of making a hydrographie survey of the Atrato from
the mouth of the Napipi River to the Cacarica. They were offered a passage up in the Bolivar, a
little Colombian steamer plying at this time upon the Atrato, and reached Vijia Puerte, a small
town ten miles above the Napipi, in the evening of the 19th. It had been reported that a more
favorable route than the Napipi existed along the valley of the Bojaya, a tributary of the Atrato
next to the south, and Commander Lull proposed to explore it; but upon inquiry from different
sources he became convinced that this was not the case, and, therefore, proceeded to make his
survey of the Atrato, which was carried on as follows. At the beginning of each course the com¬
pass bearing of some convenient point ahead was taken, and the boat was steered for it, pulling an
easy, regular stroke, taking care to keep as much as possible in the channel; a cast of the lead was
got once a minute, and the number of minutes required to reach the point steered for was recorded,
allowance being made for any change in the speed from crossing the current or other sources. A
sketch of the river was made at the same time, showing the curves and the topography of its
banks. The traverse thus made was afterward plotted upon an arbitrary scale, using the minutes
as units of distance. The latitudes and longitudes of the extreme and intermediate points were
plotted upon a skeleton sheet, on a scale of tôôVôq, an^ the traverse reduced to that scale. The
relative bearings of the different points by traverse and by their position agreed remarkably well,
and the relative scales were found to approximate very closely, not only for different portions of
the traverse, but for individual courses.
DE PUYDT ROUTE. (Plate Y.)
In 1865 a Frenchman, Monsieur Be Puydt, purported to have explored the country along the
valley of the Tanela River, which empties into the Gulf of Darien near the Tarena mouth of the
Atrato. He reported that the sources of the Tanela were but 31 meters (101 feet) above the sea,
and the divide but 46 or 47 meters (150 feet.) These heights he obtained by measuring the velocity
of the stream, a crude measure at the best, where a river has a regular fall, but valueless in a small
stream like the Tanela, full of rapids and cascades.
Upon the strength of his report a company was formed, called the Columbian Company, for the
purpose of constructing a canal upon this route, but 1 believe no steps were ever taken beyond
forming the company.
In pursuance of my desire to clear away any doubt attached to any portion of the Isthmus, I
obtained from Monsieur Truchon, French consul at Cartajena, who had accompanied Be Puydt,
his exact course, so that there could be no mistake.
Lieutenant-Commander Schulze was ordered to take command of an expedition to explore this
route, and left the Guard for this purpose on the 7th of April. Instead of passing outside, guided
by a man from Turbo, they reached the Tanela through a succession of lagoons from the Atrato.
This party were supplied with two excellent mercurial mountain barometers. Separate stations
were observed at the same time, the difference in readings giving the difference of elevation between
them, and the whole series connected gave the height above sea-level of any one point. Mr.
Schulze ascended the Tanela some thirty-three miles ; at the forks he was met by a large body of
Indians, under their chief, Suza-le Lele, who refused him permission to go any farther. After con¬
siderable parleying, in which they were told if permission was not given to this small party the
American chief would come with a large force and go without permission, they consented that Mr.
Schulze should go on for three days, which was as long as their stock of provisions would allow
them to be absent. He reached an elevation of 638 feet before turning back, and the mountains
were still four or five miles distant.
The height of the forks of the Tanela were found to be 180.7 feet above the sea. Check obser¬
vations were observed on the way back, and on their return, April 23, the barometers were com¬
pared with the standard at the beach, which had been observed at regular intervals during the
entire absence of the party. Mr. Schulze deserves great credit for the good judgment and perse¬
verance he displayed, for the Indians were decidedly hostile, and declared no white man had ever
before penetrated so far into their country.
SURVEYOR'S HUT , DARIEX EXPEDITION
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
65
This survey completely explodes Mr. De Puydt's story. I never believed it, but ordered the
survey, as previously mentioned, that there might be no lingering doubts attached to any part of
the Isthmus.
It having been reported to me that there was a route in the Gulf of San Bias, along the
valley of the Cartisinequa, lower than those I explored last year, the Nipsic was detailed to make
a barometrical reconnaissance of it. For this purpose a party was formed under Lieutenant Hub¬
bard, who had had considerable experience ashore in this vicinity last year. In ascending the
- river they struck the Indian trail leading over the divide, upon reaching the top of which, a height
of 1,500 feet was found, proving that there were no altitudes in this vicinity lower than those
explored by the expedition of 1870. As with the Tanela party, the barometers used were the best
mountain mercurial, and observations were taken with a standard at the sea-shore during the
absence of the party, to which all readings were referred.
The Nipsic was also sent to verify the positions of Caribanas Point and Punta Arenas, at the
eastern entrance of the Gulf of Darien, off which a dangerous reef extends. The several positions
as laid down on the English coast-sheet were found substantially correct. All the different surveys
having been completed, the Guard got under way on the 20th of June from her anchorage, where
she had remained for six months without raising her anchors, and arrived at Aspinwall on the 25th.
The Pacific division of the expedition were at once transferred, and the Guard sailed for New
York on the 30th, where she arrived on the 24th of July.
DISCUSSION OF THE ROUTE YIA TUYRA AND CACARICA RIYERS. (Plate IX.)
It will doubtless have been observed, from the detailed description of this line of survey, that
the general aspect of the country on the Pacific slope is, unfortunately but decidedly, unfavorable
to the construction of a ship-canal. On the Atlantic side the alluvial plain of the Atrato extends
*
close up to the spurs jutting out from the divide, and there is found an amount of level ground
that nowhere exists on the other side. This appearance that impressed me so strongly on my first
reconnaissance to Paya, coupled with the favorable report of the Pacific slope from previous
explorers, gave me strong hopes that our explorations in this part ot the Isthmus would be crowned
with success.
The explorers who have visited this region, Lacharme and Gorgoza, (for I consider Hellert's
report of no consequence, derived not from personal examination but from hearsay evidence,)
deduced their ideas from what they saw while passing up the Tuyra and Paya Rivers. I must
confess I was equally deceived. But our survey from the mouth of the Paya to the Gué, as
well as up that river, indicate plainly that this whole region is a broken country, traversed by deep
ravines and hills of moderate height, which, though presenting no elevation of magnitude, would
compel a vast aggregate amount of excavation fatal to its usefulness.
From Chipigana to Santa Maria the country is a flat plain, with a rise in this distance of about
10 feet. From Santa Maria to Pinogona, as also to the mouth of the Cupe within a half mile of
the river, it is generally level, with here and there elevations of from 25 to 100 feet. The mouth
of the Cupe is 48 feet above the sea.
Above the Cupe the whole characteristics of the country change. A line within half a mile
of the river, and often closer, is obliged to cross several ranges of hills, known among the natives
as the Paloma, the Très Yeces de Parva, the Paca, and the Loma de Diablo, which vary in height
from 250 to 400 feet. Yarious reconnaissances were made to see if these hills could be turned, but
they resulted in only finding still higher ground as one receded from the river. The mouth of the
Paya is 144 feet above sea-level, and the Cué 179 feet.
Our survey had left the Paya but a few hundred feet before it became entangled amongst
hills and steep ravines, and obliged to return toward the river bank. It was the same on the
Cué, compelling the surveyors to run their line of levels up the bed of the river, instead of follow¬
ing a straight line, as originally intended.
A reconnaissance across the country, over the Indian trail, from the Cué to Paya village, led
to no better results. It would require no further examination to conclude the whole portion
included between the Paya and Cué Rivers and the divide, as rugged and broken, doubling the
H. Mis. 113—9
66
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
amount of excavation over and above the grade-line. The country on the right bank of the Tuyra
presents no more favorable appearances. Frequent hills are seen on both banks of the Paya River,
and the rapids are swift and numerous, the altitude of Paya Tillage being 270 feet. The height of
the divide at the point crossed by the survey is 710, and through that of the so-called GacaricaPass
is 410 feet ; this difference of 300 feet does not materially affect the general result, for reasons
before stated in this report.
On the Atlantic side of the divide the descent is much more abrupt, a fall of 200 feet being
met with within a mile of the summit, and consequently the excavation required would be much
less. Yet, again, there is a large amount of swamp land, a feature extremely unfavorable to
engineering operations on the vast scale that this work contemplates.
The length of a canal on this route, from the Loma de Carica to a point five miles below Santa
Maria del Real, would be fifty-five miles.
The amount of excavation required upon the basis selected for the Napipiline wrould foot up the
enormous sum: Earth, 45,711,532 cubic yards5 rock, 62,185,013 cubic yards. This estimate is
based upon lockage to a summit-level of 160 feet, and does not include a tunnel of two miles.
Two hundred and fifty millions of dollars would not represent the expenditure for the construction
of a shiç-canal in this part of the Isthmus.
These facts, as they developed themselves, caused me much disappointment, for I had been led
to expect a better showing from my personal examination, confined, necessarily, from what could
be seen from the river-banks; which x>roves that such examinations are not generally of much
value, and it may be stated, as an invariable rule, where many streams or rivers are found empty¬
ing into the main stream, and the bed of the latter is of rock,'that elevated ground is not far off.
For the benefit of future explorers, or should the occasion arise to make it desirable for the
Colombian Government to construct a road across, I will add that the lowest line in this region
will be found to follow the Tuyra to the Gué, up the latter to its first tributary on the right bank,
the river Mono. It will then follow the Mono ^to its sources, which will bring the line very
near the lowest part of the divide known as the Cacarica Pass. There it should follow the course
of a river, name unknown, that empties into the Peranchita at its left bank, above the junction of
the latter with the Rayo. This river is crossed on the trail between the Cacarica and Peranchita
Rivers.
DISCUSSION OF THE NAPIPI ROUTE. (PlateTill.)
The result of the surveys of this route stamp with success the efforts of this expedition for
the past two years to obtain a practical line for an interoceanic ship-canal. Its general features
will, I am convinced, prove that here is the spot so long sought for, shorter than any other upon
the continent, presenting no insurmountable engineering obstacles, and at a cost much less than
any rival routes.
Commencing at the mouth of the Atrato, it includes one hundred and fifty miles of river
navigation, requiring no improvement, to a point a mile below the mouth of the Napipi ; through
the valley of the latter on nearly a west course, and terminates at the mouth of the Limon River
in Cupica Bay. The harbors at the termini are, in all respects, admirably adapted for every
requirement.
The bar at the Uraba mouth of the Atrato is firm in its nature, and an inspection of its char¬
acteristics proves that where the banks have assumed sufficient firmness to confine the flow, the
depth increases at once to five or six fathoms. With a boring-machine at the depth of 18 feet,
the same kind of sand was met with as at the surface. By forming artificial banks on each side
of the bar, there will be no difficulty in dredging and keeping open a channel of the necessary
width and depth.
The dimensions of the canal projected for this route are, a depth of twenty-six feet, and width
at bottom, in earth, of 90 feet and in rock of 100 feet, or a surface width of about 120 feet ; the
sides sloping, in earth, 2 horizontal to 1 perpendicular, and in rock, 1 horizontal to 4 perpendicular.
The Atrato, at the mouth of the canal, being 40 feet above sea-level, nine locks, of 10 feet lift, are
used to reach a summit-level of 130 feet, and thirteen locks, of the same lift, on the Pacific slope.
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
67
While locks are not a necessity, a moderate number interfere but little with the transit, and reduce
greatly the amount and cost of excavation.
The canal is filled, at the summit-level, by the Napipi River, distant but a few hundred yards,
whose volume, measured April 1, at the close of the dry season, when the river was very low,
amounted to 510,300 cubic feet per hour.
Ten lockages a day would represent about the work required of the canal, supposing a
yearly transit of 3,000,000 tons. At this rate the amount of water required daily would be :
Cubic feet.
Ten lockages per day 2, 592, 000
Leakage per day, 2,500 cubic feet per minute 3, 600,000
Evaporation per day 288, 000
Waste filtration 300, 000
6, 780,000
Daily volume Napipi low stage 12,247,200
Surplus 5,467,200
This quantity can be doubled by a feeder from the Bojaya River not more than three miles
long. As the canal would be cut mostly in.rock but little allowance is made for waste and filtration,
and for this reason there will be but a moderate expenditure for masonry the most costly species
of engineering.
To give one a clearer estimate of the cost of construction we will divide the canal into four
divisions :
Division No. 1 extends from the Atrato river to lock No. 9 the summit-level, or from A to
P, a distance of 109,021 linear feet or about twenty and a half miles ; estimating the cost of exca¬
vation in earth at 33 cents per cubic yard and in rock at $1.25 per cubic yard, we have $2,842,870.47
for earth ; $17,604,298.75 for rock. For the cost of a lock, exclusive of excavation, we have—
10,000 cubic feet timber $3, 000 00
100,000 cubic feet pine plank.. 10,000 00
400 cubic yards concrete masonry 8,000 00
10,000 cubic yards masonry lock walls 160,000 00
Gates and machinery « -. 50, 000 00
Cost single lock - - 231,000 00
Cost nine locks 2, 079, 000 00
Total cost of Division No. 1.
Excavation of rock and earth $20, 447,169 22
Construction of nine locks * « - > 2,079,000 00
Total . * - 22, 526,169 22
Division No. 1 is excavated as far as D in earth, remainder soft rock and earth. The deepest
cut in this division will be 50 feet, and the average about 36 feet.
Division No. 2 extends from lock No. 9 to east face of tunnel, or from P to Y, a distance of
30,678 linear feet or about' 5.8 miles. In which there is to be excavated 1,817,280 cubic yards of
earth; 15,740,242 cubic yards of rock; estimating rock at $1.75 per cubic yard and earth at 33
cents per cubic yard, we have for cost of division No. 2 :
Rock * $27,538,423 50
Earth . 599,702 40
Total
28,131,125 90
68
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
The deepest cut in this division at the face of the tunnel is 202 feet, the least 24 feet, and the
average about 125 feet. The last half of this division is among the hills and through hard rock,
on account of which an increased allowance per cubic yard has been made.
The line would follow up the valley of the Guinea River, which would doubtless decrease the
amount of excavation, but as our time did not permit a survey no allowance has been made.
Division No. 3 extends from Y to Y, and is a tunnel 9,010 yards in length, 120 feet high, and
70 feet wide. Its sides are perpendicular for 63 feet, the remainder an arch with a depth of 57 feet-
The number of square yards in a linear section of a tunnel of these dimensions is 824. For esti¬
mate of cost of this work, supposing arch to be self-sustaining, an allowance of $5.35 per cubic
yard is made, which puts the whole cost of division No. 3 at $39,719,684. The depth of the east
face of the tunnel is 202 feet ; of the west face 251 feet. In the execution of this work, shafts
shouldJbe sunk at every mile, which would give eight faces to work upon, thus materially expedit¬
ing the excavation, by allowing the employment of more men and increased facilities for removing
the dump. On account of the lowness of the hills through which the tunnel passes, the total
length of this series of shafts would not exceed 1,100 feet, which is not quite as great as the central
shaft of the Hoosac tunnel, which is 1,134 feet. The western face being but about 4,000 feet from
the sea, there are derived great facilities for the rapid removal of the debris, which could be
dumped into the sea, and form an excellent breakwater.
There appears to be a popular prejudice against tunnels, difficult to understand in the face of
the success of the Mount Cenis tunnel, and the undoubted completion of the Hoosac tunnel in a
couple of years. For though this tunnel is of much greater dimensions, still it is not entirely a
tunnel in the tunneler's sense of the term. Bore a hole fifteen feet high, and the remainder should
be treated as an open cut, with the favorable exception of a roof overhead.
A few years ago such a work would have been an impossibility, but with the modern improve¬
ments in drills and explosives, it is a matter of only time and money. With the Burleigh drill,
which can bore a 2-inch hole in hard rock in seven minutes, and calculated to be equal to the work
of 60 men with the common hand-drill, and with the employment of nitro-glycerine, or picrate
powder, which has an explosive force seven times greater than gunpowder, a condemnation of this
line should not be made on account of the tunnel, except on the ground of cost, which is amply
met by the small expenditure in other portions of the work.
In the construction of a canal over any route whatsoever, there will arise great obstacles and
delays on account of the very heavy rain-fall, increasing materially the cost of construction, for
which no proper estimate can be made. But the Napipi line is free in a considerable measure from
this serious inconvenience, for work in the tunnel can be carried on uninterruptedly night and day,
in the wet as well as the dry season.
For the section of the tunnel as it appears upon the profile of the Napipi route, with the in¬
genious method of removing the heading and putting in the masonry of the arch at the same time,
as also the estimated cost per cubic yard for tunnel-work, I am indebted to the distinguished engi¬
neer, B. H. Latrobe, esq., of Baltimore.
Division No. 4, from the west face of the tunnel to the sea, or from Y to A', is 3,250 feet in
length. It lies in the valley of the Limon River, which reduces considerably the excavation, and
includes the system of thirteen locks by which the descent is made to the ocean. The total exca¬
vation of this division amounts to 2,410,524 cubic yards of rock, 29,588 cubic yards of earth, the
cost of which is $3,356,514.54.
The construction of the thirteen locks of this division will require
50,000 cubic yards of masonry at $14 per yard $700,000 00
153,000 cubic yards of masonry at $7 per yard 1, 071,000 00
$50,000 x 13, for gates and machinery !... - 650,000- 00
Total - - 2,421, 000 00
Excavation of division No. 4, cost 3,356,514 54
Total cost division No. 4 5, 777,514 44
DAEIEN SHIP-CANAL
69
On account of the want of horizontal distance, without cutting deep into the. face of the hill,
the locks in this division are arranged in a triple row, as shown on the projection. In this system
a vessel from the Pacific, going east, passes into lock No. 1, thence into basin 3. She is hauled
over sideways, and passes stern foremost into basin 5 ; by a similar operation she passes bows on
from basin 5 to basin 10, then stern foremost to basin 12, and bow foremost direct through the
canal.
Total divisional cost.
Division No. 1 $22,526,169 22
Division No. 2 28,138,125 90
Division No. 3 39, 719, 684 00
Division No. 4 5, 777,514 54
Total .. .. 96,161,493 66
Summary of expenses.
Construction canal proper $96,161,494 00
Pier Cupica Bay 200, 000 00
Light-house 35,000 00
Wall Atrato Eiver 25,000 00
Depots Pacific, on the line, Atrato 100,000 00
Executive department 120,000 00
Engineer department 376, 000 00
Medical and pay departments 170, 000 00
Commissary department .. 120,-000 00
Quartermaster department - 135,000 00
Dredging-machinery 350, 000 00
Hoisting and pumping engines 875,000 00
Improvements, Atrato Eiver - 500, 000 00
Total 99,166,484 00
Add 25 per cent, for contingencies 24, 790, 623 50
Grand total - 123, 958,117 50
Of this line, its profile and estimates, B. H. Latrobe, esq., the eminent engineer and constructor
of the Baltimore and Ohio Eailroad, writes :
I have been much struck with the remarkable advantages of the work, as you uow present it, &c.
J. B. Francis, esq., of Lowell, who stands among the first of hydraulic engineers in the country,
says of it:
As a simple question of engineering, it seems to be perfectly jmacticable. The completion of the Mount Cenis
tunnel and the rapid progress at the Hoosac, are highly encouraging, and if the climatic difficulty can be overcome, it
becomes simply a question of time and money.
Mr. Walter Shanley, the present successful engineer and contractor of the Hoosac tunnel, writes :
The section you showed me presents a much less impracticable route than from all I had learned of those previously
explored I imagined could be obtained. A tunnel of the dimensions you contemplate is not all tunnel in the tunnelers'
sense of the term; that is to say, the-work would not all have to be done by the expensive process incident to boring.
First, drive a tunnel properly such, say 10 or 15 feet high at the top, and all the rest could and should be treated as
" open cut," and as such need not cost more per cubic yard than a cubic yard of similar rock on other parts of the work.
J. Dutton Steele, chief engineer, who has had large experience in tunneling in Pennsylvania,
informs me :
I have carefully considered the important subject to which your letter refers, viz, the probable cost of the tunnel,
and have concluded that the figures you gira are as nearly correct as possible. Such work could be let to good men in
the United States for from 10 to 20 per cent, under these prices, but the cost of moving men and plant to a new field
of operations will increase the cost.
70
DABlEN SHIP-CANAL.
Mr. S. A. Sweet, a prominent engineer of the Erie Canal, and who was also in a survey of the
San Bias routes in 1857, writes :
There seems to be no objection to this route; in fact it looks more practicable than any other with which I am
acquainted.
ADVANTAGES OF THE NAPIPI BOUTE.
Its prominent advantages are freedom from swamps ; its construction in rock which admits of
a closer calculation of cost than with any other material, greater durability and less cost for repair;
its shortness ; the fact that the heaviest and most expensive work is within five miles of the
Pacific Ocean, on elevated ground, giving great facilities for the movement of supplies, &c., and
especially affording as healthy if not the most healthy inhabited spot in the tropics; the excel¬
lency of its harbors ; and finally, when proper estimates are made based upon actual surveys of
rival lines, the least expensive.
OTHER ROUTES.
The survey of the Isthmus of Darien having demonstrated that but one practical route for a
ship canal exists in its territory, it may be profitable to compare it with other rivals.
Our problem has now been narrowed to the Tehuantepee, Nicaragua, Panama, Truaudo, and
Napipi.
For want of actual surveys upon most of these routes for a ship canal of the dimensions
adopted in this report, (and I believe that none smaller would answer the requirements of com¬
merce,) it is not possible to make more than an approximate comparison.
Tehuantepec.—This route offers no advantages that I am aware of that are not presented in
a more favorable degree by other localities. It is from one hundred and seventy to two hundred
miles long, of which distance at least one hundred and twenty miles would have to be canalized.
The least height is about 700 feet, which it is proposed to surmount by no less than one hundred
and twenty locks. The cost of such a canal under the condition at present required by the com¬
mercial world would be something enormous, and beyond a practical limit, judging by an estimate
based upon shorter lines and of less excavation. This locality was recently explored by a United
States expedition under Captain Shufeldt. They ascertained the fact that there was an ample
supply of water by a feeder thirty miles long to lock over the summit, but until a proper estimate
for actual cost is made, it cannot be expected that this line can command public attention. It
possesses no harbor on the Pacific coast, and the one on the Gulf of Mexico would require consid¬
erable dredging.
Nicaragua.—Extends from the mouth of the San Juan River (Greytown) to the Pacific
Ocean, a distance of one hundred and ninety-four miles, of which fifty-six miles are lake naviga¬
tion, leaving one hundred and thirty-eight miles to be canalized. This route was ably surveyed
by Major O. W. Ghilds, who estimated the cost of a canal 50 feet wide at the bottom, and 17 feet
deep, at $31,518,000. He obtains this low cost by making slack-water navigation of the San Juan
River, through a series of locks and dams. But a canal of this size is altogether too small, and it
would not be possible to make use of slack-water navigation for one of as large dimensions as* is
set down in this report as the minimum that a due regard for an unrestricted transit would admit.
Upon the question of a canal of larger dimensions, Major Ghilds reports : " The increased
length of the cuts through the bars, which a greater depth than that upon which the estimates are
based would involve, would cause the ratio of increased expense to be very great. Any consid¬
erable increase to the depth would require under-water excavation for twenty-seven miles to be
almost continuous ; it would very much lengthen the cuts on other portions of the river ; and the
liability of these artificial channels to receive deposits of earth to such an extent as to obstruct
navigation would be very much greater. A depth of 22 feet would give a transverse water section
about 45 per cent, greater than the one adopted, and the expense of the inland portions would
also, by reason of the greater depth of excavation, be increased in a higher ratio.77
Slack-water navigation depending upon the strength of dams of such huge proportion cannot
but be looked upon with disfavor. Besides, Nicaragua has literally no harbors. That of San Juan,
which was open at the time of Childs's survey, is now, I am informed, closed up.
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
71
Panama.—It possesses doubtless the lowest dividing summit on the continent, the point where
the railroad crosses being but 286 feet high. No actual survey and estimates for a canal along the
railroad profile has ever, that I am aware of, been made. The road is very crooked, skirting the
bottoms of hills, that a line for a canal could not follow.
There are three very prominent and fatal objections to this line. First. The great amount of
swamp-land, of so oozy a nature that it was only after great cost that a firm road-bed could be
made over it. To make a channel for ships through such a material would require an endless
amoiint of dredging, for the soft soil would be continually falling in, and, together with a
masonry wall, would require millions. Second. Crossing the Chagres River ; this has been known
to rise 30 feet in a night, and overflow the adjacent country for miles. This flood can only be par¬
tially controlled, and yet it must be, or it would cause incalculable disaster to the canal. Crossing
at too low an elevation to be carried over the canal in an aqueduct, it could not be permitted to
flow through the canal, and I am at a loss to conjecture what plan could be adopted to obtain the
desired protection from its floods. Third. Lack of harbors. That of Aspinwall is so indifferent,
that, during the seasons of northers, ships are frequently obliged to put to sea. At Panama there
is not water at low tide to float large vessels within two and a half miles of the town, and a
channel under water would have to be cut in rock. It has been proposed to remedy the latter diffi¬
culty by placing the western terminus at Chorera, some miles to the north ; but to do this is to
lose the benefit of the low summit crossed by the railroad.
Truando.—This route, like the Napipi, starts at the mouth of the Atrato, ascends that river
sixty miles, and crosses to the Pacific by the valley of the Truando. It was ably surveyed by
Lieutenant, now General, Michler in 1857 and 1858. Like the Napipi this line involves a tunnel
13,250 feet long. The total cost of construction is placed at $134,450,000. But in this esti¬
mate the expense of tunneling is put at only $2.50 per cubic yard, while in the estimate of the
Napipi the same is put at $5.35 per cubic yard, more than double. Applying the latter estimate to
Michler's tunnel, a canal by this route would cost $150,404,000, or $27,000,000 more than by the Na¬
pipi, to offset which are only ninety miles less of river navigation requiring no improvement.
The western terminus of this line is upon the open ocean, and it is proposed to make a harbor
by a long breakwater. With the coast of the Cherbourg and Plymouth breakwaters as a guide, the
amount of $1,000,000, estimated for this purpose by Michler, is entirely inadequate, in my opinion.
GENERAL REMARKS.
The opening of this canal in bringing distant nations nearer by thousands of miles to the
commercial centers of the world would give a tremendous impetus to trade and commerce. The
Suez Canal cannot be a competitor with the Darien, because the latter is much nearer for America,
and because the passage through the Mediterranean and Red Seas is too uncertain for sailing-ves¬
sels ever to make use of it to any extent.
The intercourse and influence of the United States with the East is yet in its infancy, and with
the means of communication afforded by the dividing of the American Isthmus it must rapidly in¬
crease and in time exceed all others. During the past two years China and Japan have become
vast fields for commercial enterprise. The American steamers have driven off competition upon
the inland waters of China, though at great expense and risk have they been carried through
stormy passages to that distant land. With the canal, doing away with these perils of the sea,
our commerce upon the inland waters of the East would grow rapidly. Already the American sys¬
tem of railways is attracting great attention in British East India, and by proper exertion, with the
shorter and cheaper transit through the Darien Canal, we should be able to supply all the East
with their whole railway plant, of itself a vast field for American enterprise. It will be seen at
a glance that, with such a short cut to an opulent commerce assured, our maritime interests would
again reassert their importance.
England, too, is equally interested in this project. The Suez Canal gives rise to fears that she
may no longer retain her position as distributer of the product of the Indies. But that trade may
again take its ancient direction, and tend more to enrich the cities of Southern Europe, and perhaps
72
DAEIEN SHIP-CANAL.
a second Venice may rise as England's rival. Her very large interests on the west coast of South
America and Australia would also urge her to favor any means that would increase her intercourse
with those countries.
The cost of construction of a ship-canal of dimensions at present required is so enormous,
coupled with the difficulty of arriving at a close approximation, from the peculiar and enervating
climate giving rise to obstacles both novel and difficult to foresee, which will produce an expendi¬
ture that for many years could yield but a moderate return, must naturally deter capitalists from
embarking single-handed in the enterprise. It therefore would seem that this canal could not be
constructed without aid from Government in some form. The objection to its being built alone
by the Government is the well-known increased cost of public works.
The construction of a ship-canal between the Atlantic and Pacific being of equal importance
to European interests, why should the United States be called upon to furnish alone what would
prove of equal benefit to all %
Let a company composed of an equal number of incorporators of the United States, England,
and Germany be chartered under the laws of these Governments. Let these three nations agree to
loan, under proper limitations and regulations, $100,000,000 in yearly installments of $10,000,000.
This loan could probably be negotiated abroad for 4 per cent. The remaining sum could be raised
by a stock subscription, &c.
The United States would be called upon to pay the first year, at this rate of interest, $140,000*
The tenth year about $2,000,000, and the whole amount she would be required to advance, upon
this plan of joint co-operation, during the ten years, wrould be about $7,000,000.
The trade through the canal would be ample at the expiration of a year to meet the interest of
the debt raised upon this plan, and in a few years a sinking-fund could be created to take up the
whole amount loaned by these three nations.
Table showing amount of trade that icould pass through the canal the first year, compiled from statistics
for the years 1SG7 and 18G9.
UNITED STATES.
Countries traded with.
Duteli East Indies
British Australia and New Zealand.
Brtish East Indies
Half of Mexico
Half of Central America
Chili
Peru
Sandwich Islands
China
Half of New Granada
California
Value of cargoes
Value of ships at $50 per ton
Total value of ships and cargoes,
Imports and ex¬
ports, 1869.
Tonnage.
$2,080, 031
13,283
809,037
44,624
9,432,214
107,977
5, 999, 967
72,930
2,109, 778
41, 520
3,272,467
49,078
3, 059, 755
-78, 429
2,083,484
56,603
25,584, 853
107, 884
5,186,025
308,220
13,000, 000
160,000
72,617,611
1,040,548
52,027,400
124,645,011
DAEIEN SHIP-CANAL.
73
ENGLAND.
Imports and ex¬
ports.
Tonnage.
$3,014,005
2, 642,650
8, 613,995
35,004,090
26,701,825
85,975,900
6,812,765
17,813,505
67,475,780
14,476,700
22,401
7,652
11, 019
220,771
212,126
197,288
30,703
123,436
264,815
129, 848
268,531,115
60,988,100
1,219,762
329,519,215
-
Countries traded with.
Half of Mexico
Half of Central America
Half of New Granada
Chili
Peru and Ecuador
China
Java
Singapore
Australia and New Zealand
California and islands of Pacific.
Value of cargoes
Value of ships at $50 per ton
Total value ships and cargoes
The trade of France for the year 1865 amounted to a total value of ships and cargoes of
$60,839,135. Tonnage 165,259. Mr. F. W. Kelley, of New York, who has devoted much time and
money to this project, has calculated by the statistics of 1857 the total tonnage that would seek
the canal at 3,094,070 tons. Allowing this to be about correct, the canal should yield a revenue—
3,094,070 tons, at $2.50 per ton $7, 735,175
100,000 passengers, at $10 per head 1,000,000
Total revenue, first year ., 8, 735,175
Astronomical positions determined.
Place and position.
Observatory Island, Columbia Bay
Cocoanut Island, Caledonia Bay..
Cape San Bias
Light-house, Aspinwall
Panama Railroad Depot
Chipigana right hank
Pinogana large mango tree
Latitude.
o ' "
8 08 27.43
8 53 52.0
9 22 10.1
8 16 50.81
8 07 24.23
Longitude.
o
//
76 47 45. 3
77 39 11.7
79 53 03.15
79 30 46. 2
77 59 43. 5
77 39 20. 4
A perusal of these reports, and inspection of the accompanying maps, will show that no part
of Darien has been left unexplored that presented any probability of a low level for an inter-
oceanic canal. Formerly a u terra incognitathere is no longer any doubt of its general unadapt-
ability of location for a ship-canal, except by the Napipi route. The ground has been patiently
gone over by parties who had no interest but to present the simple truth, unexaggerated, of what
were the actual features ; and that the public mind has been disappointed in not finding a location
where this great work could be constructed at a moderate expenditure, is due to the mistaken
reports of previous explorers, and the fact that the immensity of the undertaking has hardly been
clearly conceived.
H. Mis. 113 10
74
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
CONCLUSION.
There remains only the pleasant duty of adding my testimonial of the good conduct, zeal,
patience, and intelligence of those under my command, by whom the work of the survey has been
performed. Detailed for an uninviting service, foreign to the general duties of a naval officer, in
a climate notoriously reported as unhealthy, with no laurels to be gained, and no reward beyond a
conscientious performance, of duty, and a laudable desire of promoting the general prosperity of
the world, they have uncomplainingly borne the privations incident to their life in a dense,
unknown, and uninhabited wilderness, undismayed by sickness, and un terri lied by reports of hostile
Indians, poisonous reptiles, or a sickly climate.
No commander could have been more fortunate in the selection of his subordinates, and offi¬
cers and men felt the same interest and desire to further the objects of the expedition as himself.
It would seem almost invidious to mention names, did not the responsibilities resting upon the
leaders of parties entitle them to this distinction. I am particularly indebted to Commander Lull,
for his zealous co-operation, and his able administration of the Atlantic division of the survey.
Lieutenant-Commander Schulze, Masters Collins, Eaton, Cou den, and Sullivan, who had charge of
separate lines of survey, in the ability with which they conducted the duties devolving upon them,
the energy with which they conducted their work, and the example they set of endurance and
patience to those under their command, deserve my unqualified praise. The seamen also of these
parties for their obedience to their superiors, their patient endurance of hardships and annoyances,
and the intelligence they so generally displayed in duties entirely novel, are entitled to high com¬
mendation. The civilians of the expedition accustomed themselves to the irksomeness of naval
discipline without a murmur, and were distinguished for their ability in their professional duties,
and with but one exception for their gentlemanly deportment.
In bringing this report of our operations to a close, permit me to thank the Department for
the general discretion with which it has permitted me to conduct these surveys, and for the confi¬
dence with which it has honored me.
I have the honor to be, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
THOMAS O. SELEEIDGE,
Commander United States Navy,
Commanding United Stntes Exploring Expedition.
Hon. George M. Robeson,
Secretary of the Navy, Washington, 1). C.
REPORT
OF
THE EXPEDITION FOR SURVEY OF THE ISTHMUS OF DARIEN,
COMMANDER THOS. O. S IE X uW RI X) Cr IE, TJ. S. IN.,
1873.
Navy Department, December 5,1872.
Sir: The Department has instructed Bear-Admiral Steedman to have a vessel of war at
Panama by the 1st of January next, for the purpose of giving all the co-operation desirable in the
important work which it proposes to again assign you.
You will therefore make all needful preparations to leave, with the party detailed to accompany
you, on the Pacific mail-steamer which leaves New York on the 20th instant for Aspinwall, and
inform the Department promptly of any deficiency in your outfits ; and you are herewith relieved
from a further performance of your duties at the navy-yard, Boston, until further orders.
The different bureaus have been instructed to furnish the necessary provisions and other out¬
fits } and Assistant Paymaster James A. Ring has been ordered to report to you, and furnished
with the necessary funds.
Your experience in this service makes it unnecessary to give you particular instructions,
beyond the fact that, in connection with an examination of the valley of the Bojaya to the Pacific,
it is supposed necessary to follow the Atrato to as high a point as the river is properly navigable
during the dry season, and to follow towards the Pacific all lines of depression sufficiently to give
the assurance that no line further up can give a more favorable result than the valley of the
Bojaya, or, if so, that it be thoroughly examined.
Pay Director Bradford, No. 29 Broadway, New York, will secure your passage.
Respectfully,
GEO. M. ROBESON,
Secretary of the Navy.
Commander Thomas O. Selfridge,
United States Navy, Navy-Yard, Boston, Massachusetts.
Navy-Yard, Boston, June 12,1873.
Sir: I have the honor to lay before you my report of the operations of the expedition under
my command for the further survey of the Isthmus of Darien.
In obedience to your order I commenced necessary preparations in December last, and on the
steamer, January 1, for Aspinwall were embarked the officers detailed to accompany me : Lieuten¬
ants Collins, Eaton, Sullivan, and Assistant Paymaster Ring, with the necessary provisions, mate¬
rial, and instruments. I was myself prevented by illness from leaving for the Isthmus until the
following steamer, on January 10.
By the reports and maps of the expeditions of 1870 and 1871 it will be seen that the survey of
the Darien Isthmus had been completed as far south as the Napipi River, and the appearance of
the country upon the line of the river, as far as our time permitted us to explore, had given
most excellent results. We were encouraged therefore in the hope that a more extensive and de-
76
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL
tailed exploration would justify the time, and would reward those who had worked faithfully in
these surveys with a gratifying success.
It will not be out of place here to repeat what has been the general plan of all these surveys,
for it is upon this basis that I feel confident in deciding that no portion of Darien, possible for a
ship-canal, has been left unvisited.
The density of the tropical growth is suc»^ that any survey cut blindly through its forests
would indicate but little knowledge beyond a few hundred feet aside of the surveyor's path. It
became a question, then, what course to adopt, and I was led to this plan by the advice of Com¬
modore Ammen, who has given much time and matured thought to the great problem of a ship-
canal, and may be regarded as the pioneer of the work which I have been so fortunate as to be
called upon to carry out.
With the simple law that water seeks always the lowest level, it follows that, having obtained the
elevation of a water-course or river, you have the lowest level of the whole region drained by such
river. And I would endeavor to particularly impress this feature of these surveys, for through it
I claim that no portion of the Isthmus, suitable for canalization, remains unexplored.
Examine the general map of the Isthmus, and there will be found the Cordilleras skirting the
Atlantic coast as far as Cape Tiburon. Not only from the deck can 110 pass be seen, but the exam¬
ination of the little rivers showed that they drained only the Atlantic slope, a fact corroborated by
frequent inquiries of Indians and traders.
There is one exception, the Mandinga, which empties into San Bias Bay at the narrowest part
of the Isthmus. Here the CordilJeras recede, and the dividing range being afterwards, as appeared,
hid by an intervening ridge, through which the Mandinga, by a series of falls, had forced itself,
seemed very much depressed, and for a long time gave sanguine hopes of success.
The Pacific slope, as shown on the general map of the Isthmus, is drained by two large rivers,
the Chucunaqua and Bayamo, both rising in a transverse spur of 'the Cordilleras, and therefore
indicating that only in the region adjoining their lower valleys could be found a sufficiently low
elevation for our purpose.
A careful study of the map will point out in what portions there could be a reasonable hope of
success, and it will be found, upon perusing the reports, that such have all been examined by the
spirit-level or carefully recorded barometrical observations.
The Cordilleras, as has been remarked, recede from the Atlantic coast at Cape Tiburon, and
running about south-southwest, strike the west coast at Cape Marzo, at which point, and as far as
Solano Point, the dividing range rises almost perpendicularly from the ocean. The Atrato now
becomes the drainer of the eastern slope, as is the river Tuyra that of the western. It was rea¬
sonable to hope that the valley of the latter, with a line leaving it at a moderate elevation and
running east so as to strike the great river Atrato at a low level, and but a short distance from the
sea, would be found adapted to our wants. But such was not the case, as the report states, owing
to no very high elevations, but to the hilly nature of the country bordering npon the Tuyra, which
made the estimate of excavation enormous.
Continuing south we come to the valley of the Truando, which, thoroughly surveyed by the
combined Army and Navy expeditions of Michler and Craven, required no further explorations.
The next point that presented itself, on account of the very short distance between the Atrato,
which is to this point navigable for the largest ships, and the Pacific, was the valley of the Napipi.
The severe labors imposed upon the members of the expedition of 1871, left me no time to examine
thoroughly this river, though my reconnaissance of it left such favorable impressions that I was
not willing to abandon it, and had given me a conviction that here was the favored spot for this
magnificent enterprise.
Information received from what was then supposed reliable sources, pointed to the next tribu¬
tary south of the Napipi, known as the Bojaya, as being generally lower than the Napipi.
Here, then, lay the work of the expedition of 1873, and its completion would exhaust the
profitable region to be explored, and enable me to report to the Department that the surveys of the
Darien Isthmus, for an interoceanic canal, were finally and entirely finished.
The orolbgy of the country south of the Cuia and Bojaya rivers, lying between the Atrato and
the Pacific, as shown by the map of the Atrato valley that accompanies this report, is conclusive
XAT URAL AR C H, C U PIC A P» AY
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
77
proof that there would be no possible advantage in seeking for a route for a ship-canal south of
the line drawn from Chiri-Chiri Bay to the mouth of the Bojaya, coupled also with the fact that
the Atrato is not capable of ship-navigation above Vejia Fuerte.
As our operations would be carried on from the Pacific shore, you were pleased to detail the
Tuscarora, Commander Belknap, to co-operate with me, and he did all in his power to render the
expedition successful.
The region to be explored being confined in extent, did not require as large a supply of pro¬
visions, materials, and laborers as upon former expeditions, though the work, being of the same
nature, was equally harassing. I had supplied generally the same kind of food as before, adding,
however, the article of corn-meal, put up in tin canisters, which, from its nutritious properties
and the varieties of ways in which it could be cooked, even with our rude camp-apparatus, was
greatly relished, and I can heartily recommend it as a valuable article of food to any future ex¬
plorer.
I proposed to use the gradienter only upon our surveys. This unique instrument, described in
in a former report, furnished by Wurdemann, of Washington, proved to be all that I had expected,
and enabled us to keep our parties down to the minimum in number, a very necessary require¬
ment, when every article and every pound of food had to be carried on the backs of our sailors,
there being no inhabitants, except a few scattering Indians. It not being possible to obtain any
natives at Panama, and it having been represented to me that they could, perhaps, be procured at
a little town called Valle, about thirty miles south of Oupica Bay, at the mouth of a small river,
called the Bahia, we sailed from Panama on Thursday, January 23.
The wet season had proved very late, and up to this time the rain had not entirely ceased, but
on January 26 we had the last heavy rain. Yalle comprises only a few huts, inhabited by Indians
and a few Peons, who are employed by the head man of the place, a mulatto named Gonzalez, in
collecting "tagna," or ivory-nuts, which is the sole article exported from the place. It required a
great deal of palaver to engage even a man to go with us, the Indians being afraid, and the Peons
were mostly away, and it was not until Tuesday, the 28th, that we were able to leave, having en¬
gaged three negroes, two Indians, and a castaway sailor. No better proof of the general healthi¬
ness of this part of the coast can be given, than the fact that this sailor, named Paul, and a Ger¬
man whom we found here, had lived in the place six years, and had never had but a single attack
of fever.
COMMENCEMENT OF OPERATIONS. (Plate II.)
As has been stated, the objective point of the expedition was the most eastern indentation in
the coast-line, and it was also desirable to anchor as near as possible to the head-waters of the
Bojaya River, the survey of which would occupy the larger portion of our time and force.
The most eastern point was not hard to find, but it was impossible for us to tell which was the
nearest position to the Cuia River. For this reason we sailed first to Limon Bay, where I landed
one of our Peons, named Alvarez, and his companero, with orders to go down the Napipi, then to
cross over to the Cuia River, and obtain an Indian guide to show them the trail over the hills to
the Pacific.
The Tuscarora then proceeded about seven miles south of Limon Bay, to the most eastern
point, near the mouth of a small river, called Chiri-Chiri, which gives the name to the bay in which
we anchored.
Desiring to lose no time, I sent Lieutenants Eaton and Sullivan out with our best Indian, Ricliardo,
to endeavor to find the trail leading over the divide. Upon their return they reported the Indian
had been able to find the trail, though it was very blind, and that in an hour's walk from the
ship they had struck the head-waters of a river, which I supposed then was the Cuia, but which
proved to be the Doguado. Without waiting for any further intelligence from Alvarez, I ordered
Lieutenant Collins to organize his party No. 1, consisting of himself and Midshipman Gait, with
four ^sailors and four Macheta men. They landed January 31 with two weeks' provisions;
established camp No. 1 at the mouth of the Chiri-Chiri, and commenced work in the afternoon from
bench-mark No. 1, cut on a cocoa-nut tree growing on the beach at the edge of high water.
78
DARIEN SHIP CANAL.
For the first time daring all these expeditions we were to make use of tents instead of ranches
constructed of boughs and leaves. These tents were similar to the fly of an ordinary tent, and made
of light canvas painted black. They were light to carry, could be more quickly put up than a
house could be built, saving in this way much time and labor, and, moreover, were water-tight,
which the ranches were not unless built with great care. I should recommend them to all parties
engaged in work like ours.
. Party No. 1, at the end of the first day, struck the foot of the dividing ridge, and the line was
run up a very steep spur over the Indian trail, rising in many places at an angle of 70°, and so
steep that often the foresights would not be over 5 feet in length.
The following week camp No. 2 was established on the Doguado, and the provisions and
material were transported to it, after a great deal of hard work, on account of the extreme steep¬
ness of the ascent. The divide, between the sea and the Doguado, at its highest point was 758
feet; though more to the northward, near the head-waters of the Chiri-Chiri, it was evidently
much lower, but we could.not level over it on account of the steepness of its side. In the mean
while Alvarez had returned from the Cuia with an Indian named Pedro ; from him I was able to
obtain a better defined knowledge of the country. I found that the river near the coast was called
the Turcundo, and that it joined the Cuia at a point about twelve miles distant from the beach.
In a reconnaissance by myself, I found it would be impossible to carry the survey over the
Indian trail beyond camp No. 2, as it led over a ridge 1,900 feet high, and there was but one place
at which water could be procured in a distance of eight miles.
As will be seen from the map, the divide between the Pacific and Doguado joins the divide
between the latter and the Turcundo some miles to the south, and that the latter divide is much
higher. Camp No. 2 is on table-land lying between these two divides.
I therefore ordered Lieutenant Collins to strike an east-southeast course from camp No. 2 to
the Turcundo, and, as the position of the river was uncertain, to send out reconnoiteriug parties, in
which duty he was assisted by Lieutenant Sullivan, to find the lowest ascent.
The work of transporting their camp material and provisions with that of the survey, over
this very rugged country, was so severe on this little party that it became necessary to strike the
river as soon as possible, where I hoped to be able to use canoes for the purpose of transportation.
Some peons I dispatched to bring light canoes up the Turcundo came back and reported that on
account of impassable falls it was impossible to do so. Not knowing how far I should have to
work down the Turcundo to get to our canoes, I at first made up*my mind to abandon the line and
commence again on the Indian trail. Still, I was loth to do this, because nothing is more discourag¬
ing than to turn back over a course that has required hard work to get through with. Upon visit¬
ing party No. 1 at their camp on the Turcundo, and after receiving a report of the reconnaissance
of the river below, I determined to allow the survey to go on. As it proved a very fortunate
conclusion, for my after experience of the Indian trail over the country to the Cuia showed that a
survey of it would have been painfully slow and laborious, owing to the very high ground and
the want of water.
Upon my return to the ship, party No. 2 was organized, composed of Lieutenant Eaton, in
charge, Lieutenant Sullivan, Midshipman Miles, four sailors, with the necessary number of natives.
It had been my original intention to have had two parties under the above lieutenants, but the
difficulty of supplying them with provisions, and keeping up communication when widely separated,
compelled me to consolidate our means, an arrangement, as it proved, which was decidedly for the
best.
While these several operations were in progress, I dispatched a native courier across theNapipi
trail to my agent, Don Carlos Lemos, at Vijia, to send me a number of canoes and men to the junc¬
tion of the Cuia and Turcundo Eivers.
These Atrato men are athletic, industrious, and docile, and were by far the best help that I
have employed on the Isthmus. In the event of building a canal, probably one thousand of them
could be gathered for that purpose, and kept up to this strength. Being excellent woodsmen they
would be invaluable in the first operations of clearing the country, building roads, and preparing
the ground for the necessary railway.
To subsist party No. 2 it became necessary to make a depot at the mouth of the Turcundo,
D ARIEN SHIP CANAL.
79
where was our camp, known as Camp Relief. Let it be remembered that there were no roads in
this wilderness, no maps, our topographical knowledge very limited, until by degrees we were able
to map down the different ridges, rivers, and valleys. The only path was an Indian trail, rarely
used, and so blind as only to be picked out by the natives of the forests. Like all such paths, it
led over the highest ground, making the transportation of our provisions and material a work of
painful labor, and to add to all, water was only to be obtained at rare intervals. About thirteen
hundred pounds were to be transported, and for this purpose Commander Belknap organized a
provision-train of some sixty-five men. Including their own provisions, this gave each man a load
of about thirty pounds, and in a most inconvenient shape, as all our provisions are necessarily
packed in water-tight kegs and boxes.
Party No. 2, Lieutenant Eaton in charge, and the provision party under Lieutenant Hubbard,
left the ship at noon February 19, and camped for the night at camp No. 2, on the Doguado. Tfie
next day Lieutenant Eaton reached Camp Relief, at the junction of the Cuia and Turcundo rivers,
but though this distance was but twelve miles, it took two days to get over the provisions, and
the men toward the last were so worn out that they were obliged to lay down their burdens every
few minutes and rest. On the third day after their departure the provision party came straggling
back a few at a time, and their appearance was a sufficient sign of the difficulties of transporta¬
tion in this rugged wilderness.
An accident happened to one of the men, named Turner, of the provision party, which filled
us with grave apprehensions. Becoming too exhausted to move on to camp, he lay down in the
trail. During the night, becoming rested, he attempted to regain the camp and lost his way. As
soon as the'fact was known at the ship, a party of natives and Indians were dispatched in search,
stimulated by a large reward. The search was -kept up a week without any success beyond finding
some tracks. Finally, after being given up as dead, he was brought alongside by a native, after an
absence of thirty-five days. It appeared he wandered for three weeks in the woods, subsisting
entirely on roots, when he finally reached the sea-shore. Here, when almost exhausted, he was
found by one of the natives of Cupica Tillage, who cared for him till he was in a condition to return.
I could now feel that I had the survey well in hand. I had fixed all the topography of the
country between the sea and the Cuia River, and had a sufficiency of provisions in depot within
reach of canoes for the remainder of the survey. Lieutenant Collins would also in a day or two
have finished the work marked out for him to the junction of the Cuia and Turcundo Rivers.
There remained to be carefully explored the tributaries of the Napipi, the Doguado and
Murindo Rivers, and the intervening country. The survey of the latter I placed in charge of
Lieutenant Hubbard, who had had already extensive experience in former expeditions. From
w7hat I had seen of the country I did not expect any favorable results on the Murindo, and was
not disappointed that it turned out as many others had done before it.
I now prepared to make a personal reconnaissance of the country between the sea and the
Cuia River, to descend that river to the Atrato, and to carry out the wishes of the Department, as
expressed in my orders, for a further knowledge of the latter river.
Accordingly I left the ship on the morning of February 25, accompanied by two Indians as
guides, and camped for the night on the Murindo River, at the point where the trail crosses it.
The forests here differ very much from what had been our experience in other parts of the
Isthmus. " Though there were many trees of great size, as a general thing the growth was much
smaller, and so free from underbrush that a person could travel through the wilderness, and, wTith
the occasional use of the machete, experience but little difficulty. Game was generally very
plenty, hardly a day passing without seeing a tiger, and the surveying camps were rarely out of
fresh meat, the wild pigs or peccaries being in great numbers.
I left the Murindo camp at 9 a. m., our pathway being along the crest of a high, irregular
ridge, of which the ups and downs were too frequent for comfortable traveling, and a heavy rain
made the path so slippery that I was glad enough to hear the sound of the river, as shortly after
we emerged from the forest, and crossing the Cuia, were soon under cover at Camp Relief, so
called as being the point at which party No. 1 was relieved of their toilsome survey down the Tur-
cando by party No. 2, upon whom the task of the remainder of the survey would rest.
80
DABIEN SHIP CANAL.
I met here Mr. Eaton, and gave him instructions for the survey, which were to continue down
the Cuia as far as the Atrato ; and also to run a line of levels across the country between the Cuia
and Napipi rivers, which would give the profile over which to build an aqueduct, in case it was
desirable to increase the flow of the Napipi in the dry season.
With provisions for two weeks, I embarked in a large canoe, accompanied by Lieutenant Col¬
lins, a sailor as an interpreter, and two Indian canoe-men. We made but little progress the first
day; and in order to avoid camping out at night, stopped at 4 p. m. at the house of an Indian,
named Nicola, who offered us the use of his hut. The Indian huts, or ranches, are raised some
three feet off the ground, and have only the covering of the roof overhead, the sides being left open ;
but they do not compare in size or workmanship with those of the San Bias tribes. The negroes
b||ild the same kind of a hut, but close in the sides with split bamboo, leaving only small apertures
to let in the air, while the family of little negroes that one generally finds in them do not add to his
comfort. As we became more experienced in selecting our abodes for the night, we were careful to
avoid those which were blessed with children, and our first question in seeking a lodging for the night
was, uHay ninos aqui?" and if answered in the affirmative, we embarked to find another dwelling.
The first duty upon landing was to carry all our provisions and knapsacks to the shelter of
our house, to guard against a wetting which we are ever liable to in this climate. Then after
starting our fire, the pot is put on to boil for the cup of coffee, without which at every meal we
should feel a want which it alone can satisfy. Then the bacon is cut and put in the pan, and our
tin of preserved soup is placed by the coals to be warmed. It is but a few minutes, after a fire is
fairly started, before we are ready with tin pot, pan, and spoon, to take up our dinner, and our
appetites, always keen after a day's work, prevent any disagreeable feeling either from the manner
of cooking or eating. By the time dinner is finished, and pipes smoked, there remains but enough
of daylight to spread our blankets over the hard floor, and rig up our mosquito-bars. These pes¬
tiferous insects, with their equally active friends, the sand-flies, appear with the setting sun.
Becourse is had to the friendly shelter of the bars, and as the twilight is but short in the tropics,
after the usual rollings and groanings in attempting to find a soft spot in a bed which has none,
the camp is soon in repose.
The above is a rude sketch of camp-life in Darien, with but little variation, and daylight
finds the whole camp astir.
February 27, we were under way early in our canoe, and, with a current of about a knot, our
progress was about three miles an hour. The country from Camp Belief down to last night's
stopping-place was flat, with no hills in sight. But it was but a short distance below before we
struck hills skirting the river for some twenty miles, first on one bank, then on the other, as far as
one of its chief tributaries, the Chiqué.
The Cuia is a beautiful river, in most places about 150 feet wide, with a volume at this season
of about 500,000 cubic feet per hour. Its banks are less alluvial than the Napipi, and in conse¬
quence less obstructed by snags and drift-wood, while the fall is so gentle as to give no delay in
passing the rapids. The lower parts of the Cuia and Bojaya rivers are inhabited by negroes, and
the banks lined with plantain and sugar-cane plantations.
We stopped for the night at an unoccupied house, pretty well fatigued, sitting in a cramped
position all day in a canoe being much harder work than at an occupation that requires one's limbs
and muscles to be in full operation.
The next day, early in the forenoon, we reached the Bojaya, into which the Cuia flows, the
junction being about twelve miles from the Atrato. At noon we arrived at the Atrato, and, often
as I had seen this river, I could not help a feeling of grandeur as I saw it again, rolling on in its
magnificent proportions. Yejia, our stopping-place, is a village of five hundred inhabitants,
scattered along the bank in small houses, and situated on the right bank of the Atrato about a
mile above the mouth of the Bojaya. We were hospitably received by the only white man in the
place, who placed his house at our disposal. We were very curious to see Don Carlos's house,
because our canoe-men had dilated a great deal upon its magnificence, and we found that the great
cause of admiration was the fact of its' having two stories, the upper one of which, consisting of a
single room, Yas turned over to us. The Atrato at this time was at its very lowest stage, and yet
in crossing we found 26 feet in the channel.
DABIEN SHIP-CANAL.
81
Saturday, March 1, we left our small canoe at Yejia, and hired a larger one with two "bogas,"
as the canoe-men are called on the Atrato. Leaving a portion of our provisions and material with
Hon Carlos, we embarked at 9 o'clock for Quibdo, the principal town on the Atrato, about one
hundred and twenty miles above Yejia. In proceeding up against the current one man in the stern
keeps the bows close into the bank, while the other pushes up stream with a long forked pole,
called a palenca. They take turns with the palenca, about six hours each, and it is surprising how
long they can endure the violent exertion necessary to propel a heavy canoe up against the stream,
though the progress is painfully slow, not exceeding a mile and a half an hour.
To avoid passing more nights than possible on the river, we made very long days, generally
embarking at half past 4 in the morning and not stopping till 8 o'clock at night.
The middle of the third day found us at Quibdo, where we were hospitably received by the
schoolmaster, a very intelligent old gentleman named Don M. Baldritch. There is little to interest
one in a trip up the Atrato. The same low alluvial banks are constantly seen, which at this season,
the river being very low, were about 12 feet above the water, covered with dense forests, except
here and there where the banks were fringed with plantations of sugar-cane and plantains. Houses,
or rather huts, are found scattered along the whole distance, inhabited solely by negroes, no Indians
being found on the river, as they inhabit only the head-waters of the tributaries of the Atrato.
We passed but three small hills, not over 80 feet high, between Yejia and Quibdo. A few miles
from the latter we passed, on our way up, a large number of women on a partially dry bar in the
middle of the river washing for gold. The gold they find is in the shape of fine scales, and it is
considered a good work if they make a dollar a day.
All the tributaries of Atrato, coming in on the right bank, draining the western slope of the
Antioquian Bange, are gold-bearing, and the deposit of precious metal in these mountains must be
immense. But up to the present, the lack of capital, high price of provisions, and the want of
roads have prevented any success in working the gold deposit. The negroes depend upon plan¬
tains and fish for their daily food, while the little gold the women wash out gives them the few
necessaries and the finery so dear to the African taste: However, even in the rude manner in
which the gold is obtained, there is yearly exported from Quibdo not less than $70,000 of the precious
metal.
Two miles below the town is met the first rapids, which had but 3 feet upon them, though up
to the latter point 6 feet can be carried over the shoalest spots, and the general average depth is
not less than 12 feet.
Quibdo is picturesquely situated on a hill rising about 80 feet and extending back in a level
plain. At the junction of the Atrato and the Quito branch of the latter, it is favorably placed to
do an extensive trade if there was any enterprise in the country, but the negroes are so lazy, and
there is so little ready-money, that the place seems perfectly dead. There are a considerable num¬
ber of whites, who are all shop-keepers, who sell or barter their goods to the country-people for
India rubber and gold-dust. Their supplies are drawn entirely from Cartagena, being brought in
native crafts varying from 10 to 30 tons, styled barquetonas. These sail to the mouth of the
Atrato, where the masts are unshipped, and then are laboriously poled up against the current,
occupying about three weeks in ascending the river to Quibdo.
We were very hospitably treated by the Jefe political Senor Ferrar and the principal citizens,
atid after resting two days prepared to return and make on our way down a running survey of the
river. The survey was conducted by taking the compass bearings of prominent points on the
banks, and the distance obtained by taking the time by watch in passing between these points at
an estimated rate of speed. Soundings were taken every five minutes, and much oftener on the
crossings.
We left Quibdo Thursday, March 6, and reached Yejia the following Saturday, being nearly as
long coming down as going up. It is the custom of the country for the canoe-men to do little more
than allow their crafts to float with the current, and we found it very difficult to get any work out
of our natives, beyond an occasional spurt with the paddle, and to do this required so much coax¬
ing and scolding that it would have been unendurable had we not before us the alternative of
passing another night on the hard and dirty floor of the Atrato fisherman's hut.
H. Mis. 113—11
82
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL
The canoe and Indians which I engaged for my return up the Cuia were absent, and I was
forced, for want of one suitable, to hire two canoes and three negroes.
We left Yejia Sunday morning in no very good spirits at the change in my plans, as I found
that our men had determined to take four days to our first camp on the Cuia, while with the
Indians I could do it in two.
After proceeding some few miles we stopped for breakfast, and here my canoe-men refused to
go any further except upon certain conditions. These I did not feel inclined to grant, and I would
have been left in a disagreeable predicament had not one of the Indians who brought us down
appeared just at this moment on his way down the river. I quickly struck a bargain with him,
and he started immediately in a potria, or small canoe, to catch up with a family of Indians who
had passed up a short time before. Upon his returning with a fine looking Indian lad of about
sixteen, we prepared to depart, leaving our mutinous crew rather disconsolate at their defeat.
These Indians as canoe-men are unrivaled, and are far more industrious than the negroes. The
latter will do as little as possible, always wanting to stop early in the afternoon, by raising some
objection to proceeding, based on our ignorance of the country ; and they keep up a constant jab¬
ber from the beginning to the end of the day5 while the Indians are always respectful and docile,
and will work for hours without interchanging a word.
Instead of four, two days after leaving the Atrato we reached the point where we leave the
canoes to take the trail overland to the Pacific. 1 passed the first comfortable night after leaving
Quibdo, in Mr. Eaton's camp, he and his party being still absent at work on the trail between the
Cuia and Napipi Eivers.
Tuesday morning, March 10, after sending instructions to Lieutenant Eaton for his further
guidance, we started on the home trail, and reached the beach after a hard tramp of nine hours.
The result of my reconnaissance of the Cuia and Boj ay a Valleys proved conclusively, not
only that it was inferior to the Napipi route, but also, on account of the high land between the
Pacific and the Turcundo Valley, and the hills lower down in the Cuia, which are not met with at
all on the Napipi, that this line was impracticable for a ship-canal, except at a cost much exceeding
that estimated for the Napipi.
Though the health of our party had been pretty good on this long canoe trip of nearly three
hundred miles, probably the miasma of the Atrato, increased by a hot sun and fresh deposit left
on the banks and bars by a falling river, had sown the seeds of disease, for the next day Mr.
Collins and myself were attacked with severe fever, which kept me so weak as to prevent my
engaging in any further work on shore.
During my absence a hydrographie survey of the Chiri-Chiri Bay had been made by Lieuten¬
ant Norris and others of the Tuscarora. Tidal observations, to be used for the reduction of our
work to mean tide-level, were also carried on. The tidal staff, on account of the difficulty in pro¬
tecting it from the surf, was made of an iron rod, which was firmly fastened to the rock, and to
this was secured a square modern staff marked in feet and inches.
There remained now nothing but the valley of the Doguado to be explored. As I placed great
hopes in its results I had resolved to carry it on myself, assisted by Lieutenant Collins; but our
illness compelled a change, and I gave the charge of a party for this purpose to Ensign Taunt,
assisted by Midshipman Gait, to run the level. They were cautioned to work slowly and carefully,
as accuracy was the one thing needed.
The position and height of camp No. 2 having previously been determined, this party made
their first bench at this point and worked down the bed of the river. Enjoined to work with close
accuracy, they got ahead but slowly, making about 3,500 feet per day.
Finding that Lieutenant Eaton and party would finish their work on the Cuia Biver much
earlier than I supposed, I dispatched an Indian courier to him, with fresh instructions. These
were, upon reaching the Atrato, instead of returning the same way, to proceed with his canoes up
the Napipi Kiver and connect with the line of levels he had run the month before between the Cuia
and Napipi Eivers ; to continue this line up to the junction of the Doguado, and up the latter till
he connected with Mr. Taunt's party working down.
Party No. 2 reached the Atrato April 1, completing the survey up to that point, and proceeded
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL
83
to Vejia, to rest for a couple of days. While there a melancholy accident took place, resulting
in the drowning of Alfred Brooks, one of the best men of the party.
Lieutenant Eaton reached the junction of the Doguado and Napipi on his return, on the eve¬
ning of At>ril 6. The following Tuesday he communicated with Ensign Taunt, who had reached
a point within three and one-half miles of the Napipi. As the latter had my orders to return as
soon as he had communicated with party No. 2, he accordingly did so, having surveyed a total
distance'of seven and one-half miles from camp No. 2, and returned on board on the evening of
April 10. The next day the required reduction between bench-mark No. 1 and mean tide-level was
obtained and found to be 12.4 feet.
The Tuscarora accordingly got under way for Limon Bay, at which point I had ordered Lieu¬
tenant Eaton to proceed.
Party No. 2 returned on board Friday, April 18, all well, though much fatigued, after an ab¬
sence of sixty days from the ship.
The operations undertaken at the beginning of the season were now completed, and the Tus¬
carora returned to Panama with the expedition, which shortly afterwards embarked for the United
States.
ACCURACY OF THE SURVEY.
The position and height of the junction of the Doguado and Napipi having been determined by
three separate parties, on three different lines of survey, afford a good illustration of the accuracy
of our work.
One line from Limon Bay and down the Napipi from its head-waters to the mouth of the Do¬
guado, gave an altitude of 140 feet.
One from Chiri-Chiri Bay, across to the Turcundo River, down this river and the Cuia River,
across the Cuia to the Napipi, up the latter to its junction with the Doguado, gave 136.5 feet.
One down the Doguado, from the head-waters to its mouth, gave the height of the latter 132
feet.
Here are three lines, embracing nearly sixty miles of leveling, run by different parties, over a
rough and mountainous country, and giving an extreme difference of but 8 feet.
The mean 136 feet was taken for the true height of the junction as shown on profile. The po¬
sition of this point, as established by these three parties, did not vary but 1,000 feet; hardly an
appreciable quantity on the map that accompanies this report.
DISCUSSION OF PROPOSED CANAL ROUTE VIA THE NAPIPI AND DOGUADO
VALLEYS. (Plates II and VII.)
a
Much has already been said of the nature of the country, and difficulties to be encountered,
in the valley of the Napipi in my previous report.
But as the value of this route depends so entirely upon the capacity of ship-navigation of the
river Atrato up to the point we leave it to cross to the Pacific Ocean by an artificial cut, I will
again allude to it, before proceeding to discuss the general features of the new proposed line.
Our knowledge of the Atrato is based upon a complete line of soundings, run by Commander
Lull, for the whole distance, from the mouth of the Napipi to the mouth of the Atrato, who made
the survey in his gig, taking soundings every five minutes. So important is the fact of the great
depth of the Atrato, that I append his letter to me on his return, as also* one from the officer who
accompanied him, Lieutenant Merrill.
United States Ship Guard, 4th Rate,
Gulf of Darien, United States of Colombia, May 1, 1871.
Sir: I would respectfully inform you that, in obedience to your order, I have examined the river Atrato, from
the mouth of the Napipi down to the mouth of the Cacarica, sounding as rapidly as possible, while pulling gently with
the current, in the gig of this ship, making a running traverse at the same.
The least water found in the channel of the river, was twenty-eight feet although the surface was at least six feet
below high water ; we frequently found over twelve fathoms. There are very few obstructions, in the shape of snags,
&c. All that we saw could be cleared away in a single day's work by a steamer.
84
DABI EN SHIP-CANAL.
The channel follows the curves of the shore so exactly, that any pilot, after once going up or clown the river,
could never after make a mistake with regard to it. It is the clearest river I have ever seen.
The river bottom is all soft mud ; we did not discover a single rock or stone the whole distance.
I beg to say that I use superlative language advisedly, in speaking of this river, as its advantages for navigating
purposes struck me as being so remarkable that I examined it with great care. *
I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
EDWARD P. LULL,
Commander.
Commander Thos, O. Selpeidge,
Commanding Darien Exploring Expedition.
Marshall, Michigan, August 5,1873.
Sir: I accompanied Commander Edward P. Lull, United States Navy, on the survey of the Atrato River, and am
confident that, after crossing the bar at the mouth, there will be no difficulty in carrying twenty-six feet of water to
the mouth of the Napipi.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
JOHN P. MERRILL,
Lieutenant United States Navy,
Commander Thos. 0. Seleeidge,
United States Navy, commanding Darien Expedition.
Attention is also drawn to a cross-section of the Atrato, at the mouth of the Napipi, as shown
upon the profile of the canal route. For the whole distance from the Napipi to the ocean there
is not so much as a rock or hill to he seen on the banks of the Atrato, a sufficient evidence of the
alluvial nature of the country through which it flows, and a sufficient explanation of its great
depth, now known for the first time ; which seems to open a comparative easy solution of the
problem that has been the dream of centuries.
No one who has visited this river and floated upon its surface as I have, can but be struck
with the grandeur of this mighty flow of water, and can but feel that it has been designed by the
Almighty to bear a more important part in the great economy of the world's progress than the
carrying of the little crafts which are now its sole navigators.
That the Atrato is entirely and wholly capable of ship navigation to the point which we wish
to leave it, is a fact that no longer admits of any doubt.
From ocean to ocean, then, the only barriers are the half mile of sand-bar at the Atrato's
mouth, and the twenty-eight miles intervening at the mouth of the Napipi, between the Pacific
and the Atrato, through which an artificial cut or canal must be made.
BAR OR OBSTRUCTIONS AT THE MOUTH OF THE ATRATO.
As will be seen by the map that accompanies this report, the Atrato spreads itself out into a
delta at least twenty miles in length, and empties by thirteen mouths into the sea.
The great difficulty that has been met in the permanent improvement of the mouths of all
the rivers that empty into the Gulf of Mexico, is the shifting character of the sands, caused by
the action of the sea-swell, and which requires the constant use of the dredge, as at the mouth of
the Mississippi, where the storm of a single night may open a channel entirely different from the
one in use. While nearly all the mouths of the Atrato are exposed to this same influence, that
one known as the Uraba is an exception, as it empties into an almost land-locked harbor, the sur¬
face of which is hardly ruffled. This fact gives the character of its bar a permanence which none
of the others possess in the same degree. Specimens of boring at a depth of 18 feet below the
surface, indicate that it is composed entirely of black and white sand, whose geological properties
are the same as the hills from which the tributaries of the Atrato flow. I was also struck by the
fact, that as soon as we crossed the bar to a point where the overflow was restrained by the growth
of plants, then did the depth commence to increase, and as soon as the flow was confined by banks
compact enough to sustain vegetation, the water at once deepened to five fathoms. This action of
nature to my mind was conclusive proof that if the current was confined by artificial banks, and
the inclosed distance dredged to the required depth, there would be a permanent channel
requiring no further outlay to keep open.
From the ten-fathom line to a depth of five fathoms in the Uraba Branch, it is about 2,500
feet. There would be required for a double row of piling the whole of this distance 10,000 trees
DAEIEN SHIP-CANAL.
85
30 feet long and 1 foot or more in diameter. Trees of the variety known as the Cedron, Guallaca,
or Truntago, Chacajo, and Insivé, can all be cut on or near the Atrato and its tributaries. These
varieties are all hard and very durable, of a specific gravity less than water, and could be there¬
fore floated to the desired spot, and driven at a cost not exceeding $5 per pile.
For a channel 300 feet wide and a depth of 26 feet of water, there would require to be removed
640,000 cubic yards of material. The expense, therefore, of the required improvement at the mouth
of the Atrato would be :
10,000 piles, $5 each $50,000
640,000 cubic yards material, 50 cents per cubic yard . - 320,000
370,000
25 per cent, increase for contingencies 92,500
Total 462,500
FROM THE MOUTH OF THE NAPIPI TO THE PACIFIC.
The new proposed route for the canal, as surveyed in 1873, embraces a portion of the same line
as surveyed and reported upon in 1871. It starts from the Atrato about three miles below the
mouth of theNapipi, and runs almost due west, and never at a distance of more than half a mile
from the river, till near the mouth of the Doguado. Up to this point there are no rivers to cross
and but four small hills, none over 60 feet in height. The canal then bends with a gentle curve to
the river and crosses the Napipi just below the junction of the Doguado. It follows close to the
right bank of the latter in a general southwest direction and enters the Pacific Ocean at the
mouth of a small stream called the Chiri-Chiri, which gives the name to the bay, which will form the
western terminus. The total length of the whole is twenty-eight miles. That portion of the line
that follows the valley of the Napipi has been already described, and it is only necessary to remark
that as a locality there could be nothing better desired, being one continuous plain with a gradual
rise of 90 feet.
From the mouth of the Doguado the country continues flat for two miles, with a gradual rise of
25 feet. We now strike broken country, with here and there small hills, increasing in height to
four hundred feet at about three and a half miles from the Pacific, at which point the tunnel com¬
mences and is continued for three miles, passing under the divide, which is about 660 feet above the
sea. Beyond the western end of the tunnel we have the valley of the Chiri-Chiri.
The head-waters of the Doguado is a charming country, embracing a large extent of table¬
land, well watered and timbered, and abounding in game. Here will be a most beautiful and
healthy spot for the hospitals, swept by rarefied breezes at an elevation of 600 feet above the sea.
GEOLOGICAL NATURE OF THE PROPOSED LINE.
This does not differ from the general features of the Napipi. In that portion of the Doguado
under which the tunnel passes the rock is trap of a very hard nature, with the dip nearly horizontal,
and I have no doubt would be found self-sustaining. Two thermal springs were discovered, one
on the Doguado, near its head-waters, and one on the Napipi. An analysis of each by Professor
Johnson, of Yale College, gives the following :
Doguado. Napipi.
Chloride of sodium 82 48
Chloride of calcium 91 5
Carbonate of lime* 8
Magnesia - trace.
Potassa trace.
Silica ■ trace, trace.
Organic and undetermined matter 38 5
Total solid matter . 211 66
Water 99,789 99,934
100,000 100,000
* Dissolved in carbonic acid,
86
DA1UEA SHir-GAEAL.
• The temperature of the Kapipi spring was 95° Fahrenheit, and it bubbled out about 300 feet
from the edge of the right bank. It is situated a short distance above the point known to the
canoe-men as Eancho Grande.
The hot springs of the Doguaçio are close to our bench-mark Ko. 8, on both sides of the river.
The principal, however, from which the specimens were taken are close to a small stream, on the
left bank, and about 1,000 feet from its junction with the Doguado. The rock in the vicinity of the
springs was partially decomposed. They had the appearance of wells, being nearly round, and
edged with a deposit of calcareous tufa. Temperature of water in stream above springs is 78°; at
junction with Doguado, 98°. Temperature in springs 113°, 110°, 108°, 111° Fahrenheit. The
ground in the vicinity was covered with fresh, recognizable foot-prints of all the game known to us
of the country, and it was evident that this was a favoritp drinking-spot.
A fossil shell was also picked up in the upper portion of the Doguado, to which was found adher¬
ing an earthy substance resembling coal, upon the analysis of which Professor Barber, of Yale, writes
as follows :
The shell you sent roe is a nautilus. The species I have been unable to determine, from the imperfection of the
specimen. It is probably as late as Pliocene and may be tertiary. The adhering dark material is clay, cemented by a
small quantity of organic matter. On ignition it loses 18.4 per cent,, of which 6 per cent, is organic. It burns light-
colored, and the residue does-not effervesce with acids. I am not able to say, therefore, from either the chemical or the
paleontological evidence, that this fossil is any indication of the presence of coal.
HARBORS.
The magnificent harbor at the mouth of the Atrato, named by the expedition "Columbia
Harbor," has already been described in a previous report. Ten miles in length by five miles in
breadth, with a uniform depth of ten fathoms, completely land-locked and easy of access, it has no
superior.
On the Pacific the western terminus is on the bay of Chiri-Ohiri. It is open to the west and
southwest, but its shores are bold and clear of reefs, and has good holding-ground of clay in about
twenty fathoms, three-fourths of a mile from the beach.
To protect the mouth of the canal from the ocean swell, I propose to construct two short
breakwaters. Their cost will be but trifling, because they will be made by the débris dumped
from the western face of the tunnel, which will be the easiest and cheapest way to dispose of it.
An American sailor, who had lived many years on the coast, told me he had never seen it blow,
or the sea so heavy that our ship, the Tuscarora, could not have laid at single anchor 5 that he
never knew of any gales, but that there were in the fall some squalls from off the land from the
north and northeast.
LENGTH AND DIMENSIONS.
As has been said, we use the Atrato Biver, which i^ free from all obstructions except at the
bar at its mouth, for one hundred and fifty miles.
The artificial cut or canal to be excavated is twenty-eight miles in length; of this twenty-two
miles are over a plain, three miles of moderate deep cutting, and three miles of tunneling.
The dimensions of the proposed canal are a depth of 25 feet, and a width at bottom in earth
of 50 feet, and in rock of 60 feet, giving a working surface width of 72 feet; which is about the
size of the Suez Canal; the sides sloping in earth 2 horizontal to 1 perpendicular, and in rock 1
horizontal to 4 perpendicular.
The tunnel will be 112 feet high and 60 feet wide, leaving 87 feet in the clear, above the water
surface.
Three sidings will be constructed, six miles apart, 2,000 feet in length, for such vessels whose
size will not permit them to pass each other on the canal.
Four plans of construction are proposed, as follows:
Plan A as projected on the profile, with a summit-level of 120 feet, requiring altogether twenty
locks.
Plan B with the same summit-level, but with the bottom of canal carried but 15 feet below the
grade-line, the required depth being obtained by embankments 15 feet high.
T. SINCLAIR 8, SON,lin. MUA.
COLUMBIA HARHOR,EASTERN TERMINUS OF CANAL, MOUTH OF ATRATIJ. IT.S.S.NIPSIC
DABIEST SHIP-CANAL.
87
Plan C, with a summit-level of 80 feet, requiring twelve locks.
Plan D, which contemplates a through cut from the Atrato Biver, in which case the canal
would be filled from the latter river, and but three locks required at the Pacific terminus. The
only advantage of the latter would be the superabundant supply of water, and the saving of time
in passing through the locks, while on the other hand it would be more expensive, would not
permit the draining of the canal if desired for repairs, and moreover, being necessarily very much
below the bottom of the Napipi, would have to receive the surface drainage of the country through
which it passes, which, in the rainy season, might become a very great objection.
Por myself I prefer the 120-foot summit, as presenting the minimum of cost5 and the mod¬
erate number of locks would add but little to the time necessary to pass from ocean to ocean.
The proposed size of the locks is, a total length of 427 feet, and a width of 54 feet, giving a
clear length of 400 feet, and a lift of 10 feet.
WATER-SUPPLY.
The water to fill the canal will be drawn entirely from the Napipi Biver, which at the summit-
level will include, also, its two principal tributaries, the Murindo, and Doguado Bivers. Its vol¬
ume has been carefully measured by cross-sections, and the flow at the point at which it will be
tapped was, about April 1, 520,000 cubic feet per hour, which date may be considered the close of
the dry season, as the rainy season sets in during April, and continues till the middle of June.
Prom the marks on the trees indicative of high water, and an estimated velocity of two miles per
hour, the volume of the Napipi at its highest stage is calculated to equal 8,000,000 cubic feet per
hour. We are safe in allowing an average flow, through the year, of 3,000,000 per hour.
The survey across the country, which included a line of levels from the Cuia Biver to the
Napipi, demonstrates that an aqueduct but three and one-half miles long is necessary ta utilize the
flow of the Cuia, which in the dry season amounts to 450,000 cubic feet per hour, and which,
united with the Napipi, will give a total supply of 23,280,000 cubic feet per day in the dry season.
This is a quantity far in excess of the demand required for a tonnage of three times the present
amount that it is estimated would use the canal, after making a liberal supply for leakage, &e.
Should the time ever come that it would become necessary to build extra pairs of locks to
accommodate the traffic beyond the resources of the canal to transport, we have the large river
Opogado, which is about ten miles distant from the Napipi.
Experiments for evaporation at the mouth of the Atrato gave an average amount of about
one-fifth of an inch every twenty-four hours. This is a much smaller quantity than has been
allowed in northern climates, but the difference is easily accounted for in the constant moist con¬
dition of the atmosphere of the Atrato Valley.
It is certainly a marked coincidence that the amount of evaporation, as found in Captain Shu4
feldt's report upon the survey of Tehuantepec, should have been 0.19 of an inch, but 0.01 inch dif¬
ference from that obtained by our experiments, and therefore the evaporation in the tropics may be
accurately set down at not more than two-tenths of an inch.
As will be seen farther on, in the construction of this work, after passing the first lock, up to
which the back-water of the Atrato will flow, the canal will be cut entirely through rock, care
being taken to keep the bottom at such a distance below the grade-line as to accomplish this. On
this account there can be no loss from filtration, an element in most canals that absorbs a large
fraction of the water-supply.
The class of vessels that will frequent the canal are mostly of a large size* But the locks as
proposed are long enough to take in at once two ships of 1,000 tons registry each, one astern of
the other.
Twenty lockages a day will represent a tonnage of 20,000 tons, provided each lock is filled by
one or two vessels equal to 2,000 tons register; or during the year a total of 7,300,000 tons, which
is three times the amount that it is calculated would at present use the canal.
With thirteen hours daylight, and supposing that three lockages can be made in an hour, forty
lockages will represent the total amount that the canal is capable of accommodating. This would
represent a carrying capacity of the canal for the year of 15,000,000 tons, or six times the present
88
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
amount of trade. Therefore, there is no doubt for the present or at the time the canal is completed,
but that the flow of the Napipi alone would be sufficient to supply the canal.
We have, therefore, flow of the Napipi—
Cubic feet.
Close of dry season . 520,000
24
Supply for twenty-four hours .. .12,480,000
DEMAND.
Cubic feet.
Leakage, at 3,000 cubic feet per minute 4,320,000
Evaporation, twenty-four miles of canal 288,000
Waste 1,000,000
Twenty lockages a day, equal to 20,000 tons per day 4,611,600
10,219,600
Supply « 12,480,000
Excess 2,260,400
Applying the total capacity of the canal, which for reasons above stated, cannot probably ex*
ceed forty-six lockages through the summit locks, we have for a total :
Cubic feet.
Forty lockages per day 9,223,200
Leakages, &c., per day 5,608,000
14,831,200
Napipi and Cuia Rivers combined flow at close of dry season, per day .. - 23,280, 000
Excess per day 8,448, 800
With these results there can be no doubt of a sufficiency of water for every requirement of the
canal upon this route.
For the purpose of collecting the total flow of the Napipi in the twenty-four hours, when
necessary, and to more quickly fill the summit-locks, a reservoir of a capacity of 20,000,000 cubic
feet will be constructed between the canal and Napipi above the summit-level.
COST AND EXCAVATION.
For the purpose of obtaining the exact amount of excavation, from which can be calculated a
close estimate of cost, we divide the work into four divisions, which are sub-divided into twenty-
seven parts.
The area of the prism at the end of each part is calculated, and the mean taken, which is
multiplied by the length of the part taken in feet to obtain the cubical contents. Theoretically
this is correct, but practically it will give too large a quantity, but this is preferable to having too
small an estimate, and allows for irregularities of ground.
To obtain the total cost of the excavation of the canal, we allow 33 cents per cubic yard in
earth, $1.25 and $1.75 per cubic yard in rock, and $5.35 per cubic yard for tunnel-work.
These estimates of cost have been furnished me by Benjamin H. Latrobe, esq., the distin¬
guished engineer of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, and are believed to be fully equal to the
necessities of the case.
It is proposed to employ almost entirely Coolie or Chinese labor. Though the Chinese cannot
do as much per capita as Northern laborers, they work with more steadiness, and they could be
procured, clothed, and fed at a cost of not exceeding $16 per month.
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
89
The Chinese are extremely quick at learning, and very shortly they would be equal to skilled
labor in the liandliug of mining implements. They are now employed in large numbers upon the
railroads of Peru and Costa Rica, and make, I am told, excellent miners, of which nature most of
the work upon the canal partakes.
PLAN A, AS SHOWN ON PROFILE.
Division No. 1.—This extends from the Atrato River to the summit level, or from A to J, a
distance of 103,900 linear feet, or about 19.7 miles, and includes eight locks, six of 10 feet and two
of 11 feet lift. This division will require a total excavation of 5,328,493 cubic yards of earth,
and 7,801,998 of rock.
For cost of Division No. 1, we have—
5,328,493 cubic yards earth, at 33 cents $1, 758,403
7,801,998 cubic yards rock, at $1.25 9, 752,498
$175,000 estimated cost single lock, 8 locks 1,400,000
Total 12,910, 901
Of the estimated cost of a single lock, $50,000 are for gates and machinery. This division is
excavated as far as B in earth, the remainder in soft rock and earth. The deepest cut will be 50
feet, and the average about 35 feet.
Division No. 2.—It extends from lock No. 8 to east face of tunnel, or from J to T, a distance
of 25,640 feet, or about 4.9 miles, in which there are to be excavated 691,329 cubic yards of earth
and 4,937,619 cubic yards of rock. Owing to the harder character of the rock and the deeper
extent of the cut, the cost per cubic yard is increased to $1.75 per yard. We have then for total
cost of this division—
691,329, at 33 cents $228,139
4,937,619, at $1.75 / 8, 640, 833
Total 8,868,972
The deepest cut in the division is at the east face of the tunnel and amounts to 223 feet, the
least 35 feet, but the average depth will not exceed 75 feet.
Division No. 3.—This division is a tunnel 5,233 yards in length, a fraction less than three miles*
Its dimensions are 112 feet in height and 60 feet in width ; the sides are perpendicular for 63 feet,
and the remaining 49 feet an arch. The number of square yards in a linear yard are 633.
In estimating the cost of this work, supposing the rock to be self-sustaining, I have allowed
a cost of $5.35 per cubic yard. Adding to this 25 per cent, additional, as shown in the general sum¬
ming up, it would give $11 per cubic yard for the first 40 feet in height, and $5 per yard for the
remaining rectangular space, an ample sum when compared with the cost of tunnels now under con¬
struction. The total cost of Division No. 3 amounts to $17,731,232. I have already spoken at length
in my previous report of the popular prejudice against tunnels, and there is little now to be said.
Tunneling is becoming now a general resort of engineers, and with the improved power drills,
and enormous force of nitro-glycerine, it is no longer looked upon as a subject to be avoided.
The very size of this ship-canal tunnel is in its favor, as the work will cost less, yard for yard,
yian railroad work, from the increased facilities that its dimensions give in removing the blast.
There would be three shafts probably sunk, giving eight faces to work upon, whose united
length would not exceed 962 feet.
It should not be forgotten that this feature of a tunnel will permit the work of excavation of
the most costly portion of the line to be carried on uninterruptedly day and night, while on
portions of this or any other canal constructed in the tropics, much delay and annoyance will be
caused by the great rain-fall of the wet season.
Division No. 4.—This division, which terminates at the Pacific, or from A to C, is 4,400 feet in
length. There will be required about 67,882 yards of earth and 395,993 of rock excavation. It
includes tile system of twelve locks, which follow one immediately after the other, and possibly
one of them might have to be placed in the mouth of the tunnel.
IT. Mis. 113- 12
90
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Nothing more than an approximate estimate can be given for the cost of the locks in this
work. But as they are excavated in the solid rock of which the cost is allowed, the greater portion
of the expense will be in the gates, machinery, gate-walls, and miter sills. Blocks of concrete or
béton can be substituted for dressed granite at much below the cost of the latter, and it is believed
the sum allowed for the locks will cover this cost.
Cost of Division No. 4 :
67,882, 33 cents $22, 401
395,993, $1.25 . 494, 991
12 locks at $150,000 a lock 1, 800,000
Total 2, 317,392
Total divisional cost.
Division No. 1 $12, 910, 901
Division No. 2 , > 8,868, 972
Division No. 3 17, 731,232
Division No. 4 2,317,392
Total 41, 828,497
RESERVOIR.
To utilize the whole daily discharge of the Napipi in the dry season it is proposed to construct
a reservoir to hold 20,000,000 cubic feet. This would require an excavation, supposing the banks
raised 10 feet above the surface, 1,000 feet long by 300 feet broad and 15 feet deep. A total of
440,000 cubic yards at $1.25 per yard would give as cost of reservoir $550,000.
AQUEDUCT.
An aqueduct to connect the Quia and Napipi Rivers would be 7,322 yards in length.
Of this distance there will be a tunnel 6 feet by 7 feet for 3,475 yards, at $150 the
running yard, will amount to . $521,250
3,847 yards trench, 6 feet wide, average depth 17 feet, will amount to 27,596 cubic yards,
at $3 per yard 82,788
Total cost 604,038
Fall of water, 32 feet in four miles.
Five hundred thousand dollars are allowed for cost of culverts.
One million dollars is estimated for construction of a narrow-gauge railroad, to be used in the
transportation of supplies and as a tramway to remove the debris. Also for the purchase of the
necessary steamers on the Atrato, which would not probably exceed two in number. One million is
also allowed for the crossing of the Napipi River by the canal, and the necessary sluiceways and
conduits to the reservoir.
We have therefore the following
Summary of expenses.
Cost of excavation $41,828,497
Cost of reservoir 550,000
Cost of aqueduct between Cuia and Napipi Rivers 606,000
Cost of culverts 500,000
Cost of railway, narrow-gauge— , 1,000,000
Crossing of Napipi River by canal 1,000,000
Grubbing and clearing 500,000
Sea-wall, Chiri-Chiri Bay. 200,000
Wall, Atrato River, eastern mouth of canal 25, 000
Executive department * 120,000
Engineer department 375,000
Pay department « 90,000
DABI EN SHIP-CANAL. 91
Quartermaster department .. .. $135, 000
Commissary department 120, 000
Hoisting and pumping engines < 875, 000
Medical department ... 80, 000
Improvements moutli of Atrato Biver . .. ... 402, 500
48,466,997
Twenty-five per cent, added for contingencies 12,116, 749
Total 60, 583, 746
The amount placed to the credit of the medical department is too small. But there will prob¬
ably be a yearly revenue of $50,000 from rents of land and buildings, which would be appropriated
to the support of hospitals.
plan b.
This differs from the preceding so far that the bottom of the canal is carried but 15 feet
below the grade-line, and embankments are formed on each side some 15 feet high to retain the
water of the canal. But this will only apply to Division No. 1 the others necessarily remain an
ordinary cut. In other respects it does not differ from Plan A except requiring one more lock.
The advantage of this plan is the minimum of cost of Division No. 1, which by this method
amounts to $3,891,609, or, applied to the summary of expenses as given under Plan A, would place
the total cost of the canal at only $53,937,247.
plan (j.
This plan employs but four locks to the summit-level, and eight locks down. Its advantage
is in tapping the Napipi Biver lower down, and having an increased supply of water, and
less delay in passing through but half the number of locks. The excavation will be necessarily
much greater and the tunnel will be 1,900 feet longer than by Plans A and B.
The Napipi will yield, at the point tapped, on this plan, 200,000 cubic feet per hour more than
where taken as in Plan A. The total cost of excavation will amount to $64,220,670, and total cost
of canal on this plan will be $72,518,795.
plan d.
This differs from all the above in the fact that it proposes to do away altogether with locks,
except the three at the western terminus to equalize the difference of level between the Atrato and
the point the canal leaves it, and the Pacific Ocean. It will be, therefore, a straight cut and
filled from the Atrato, which has a volume in the dry season of at least 16,000 cubic feet a second.
Necessarily the excavation will be large and the tunnel will be increased 3,900 feet, making
whole line of tunnel 3.71 miles. The cost of excavation by this plan will amount to $81,815,320,
and the total cost of canal, as an open cut, will amount to $90,113,445.
pre-eminent advantages of canal-line via valleys of napipi and doguado rivers.
Shortness of canal-line ; almost entire excavation in rock, a material that admits of a closer
estimate of cost than any other ; simplicity of engineering operations—all of these advantages
producing a lower calculation of cost with a less uncertainty of change from original estimates
than any other. Absence of swamp-laud. But one river to cross. General flatness of the greater
portion of the route, through which the necessary railroad facilities can be acquired at a moderate
expenditure. Freedom from earthquakes or volcanic traces. Using no part of a river-bed, thus
leaving the rivers to perform the necessary functions in carrying off the immense rain-falls of the
wet season, and preserving at all times slack-water navigation in the canal. Absence of high
winds that tend to impede the navigation of a canal by large vessels. An almost land-locked har¬
bor on the Atlantic coast, easy of ingress and egress. Healthiness of position ; while with others
it possesses an ample water-supply. A harbor on the Pacific equal to that to be found at the ter¬
minus of any other of the routes surveyed.
The health of the expedition of 1873 has been unexeeptionably good. There were a few cases
92
D ARIEN SHIP-CAN AL.
HEALTH.
of intermittent fever, but they yielded readily to treatment. But one man connected with the
survey was lost, and he by drowning in the Atrato.
Though the work of the survey of the Isthmus of Darien lias been of the most arduous nature
and necessarily required constant exposure, yet on all the expeditions, extending through three
years, nota man has been lost by climatic causes, nor have the personnel of the expedition returned
with impaired health.
Experience and observation have taught me that Europeans of regular habits and abstemious
in their diet, with the proper care of wearing light woolen clothing next to the skin, can live many
years on the Isthmus of Darien without permanent injury to themselves.
It is a satisfaction to know that the Isthmus of Darien is no longer a doubtful land, and that
as far as its adaptability for a ship-canal is in question it has been thoroughly explored.
The United States has now, through the various expeditions fitted out for the purpose, the
whole data to decide upon the feasibility of a project that has been the dream of centuries, and
the best location for an enterprise the greatest and most important the world has yet seen.
To show the vast commerce that will flow through it, and the saving of time and distance on
the old routes of Cape Horn and Cape of Good Hope, the following tables are given, as called for
from the Secretary of the Treasury by the House of Representatives, in February, 1872.
»
Trade of the United States for 1870 with the following countries.
Countries.
Entered.
Cleared.
Total.
No.
Tonnage.
No.
Tonnage.
No.
Tonnage.
West coast of Mexico
60
20,554
72
30, 853
132
51,407
West coast of Central America -
29
5,626
19
4,210
48
9,836
West coast of South America
148
193,393
132
166,055
280
339,448
Sandwich Islands
59
32,819
, 69
40,822
128
73, 641
Islands, Pacific
7
1,537
4
757
11
2,294
Australia and New Zealand
83
64,604
50
28,839
133
93,443
China
90
60,658
43
38,084
133
98,742
Japan
47
30,200
19
13,300
66
43,500
Dutch East Indies
23
12,908
14
13,565
37
26, 473
* California
100
100, 000
108
130,022
230,022
t
Total ton nacra from United States through canal
969,006
O - - - - * O
i
i
I
*For the year ending June 30, 1873.
Trade of Great Britain for 1870 with the folloiving countries.
Countries.
West coast of Mexico
West coast of Central America
Islands of Pacific
Peru
Equador „
Japan
Australia and New Zealand
Total tonnage from Great Britain through canal
Entered.
Cleared.
No.
Tonnage.
No.
Tonnage.
150
308,625
70,639
15
5,572
4
1,057
19
8,196
13
6, 368
18
15,580
5
1,846
146
86,281
212
125,264
257
224,131
139
114,589
0
1,970
6
1,768
8
3,667
53
33,148
243
220,889
338
320,872
Total.
Tonnage.
19
32
23
358
396
12
61
581
379,264
6, 629
14,564
17,426
211,545
338,720
3,738
36,815
541,771
1, 550,472
* For year ending June 30,1873.
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
93
Total tonuage of Germauy with above countries 110, 040
Total tonnage of France with above countries 169, 259
Total tonnage that would use the canal.
Tous.
United States 969,006
Great Britain 1, 550,472
Germany. 146,049
France 169, 259
Total 2,834, 786
In the above estimate no account is taken of the trade of Great Britain with China and East
Indies, much of which, outward bound, would seek the canal.
Comparison of time and distances between the old routes, via Cape Horn and Cape of Good Rope, and
the Isthmus of Darien.
TABLE FOR STEAMERS.
From.
New York
Do...
Do...
Do...
Do...
Do....
Do...
Do...
Do...
Do...
Return.
Sidney
Hong Kong.
Manila
Yokohama ..
Honolulu...
Batavia
From.
New York
Do...
Do...
Do...
Do...
Do...,
Do...
Do...,
Do...
Do...
To.
Sidney ...
Hong Kon
Manila ..
g
Shanghai
Yokohama
Batavia
Honolulu
Callao
Valparaiso
San Francisco
New York
do...
do...
do...
do...
do...
40
48
47
46
43
51
29
15
21
25
Distance.
9,970
12,165
12, 005
11,605
10,675
13,500
7,155
3,500
5,000
Remarks.
Via Honolulu.
Do.
Do.
Do.
I
The same time and distance
f on the return passage.
42
9,970
46
11,735
48
12,325
43
10,315
29
7,300
54
13,120
Great Circle Route.
Do.
Do.
SAILING-VESSELS.
Outward.
Present route.
To.
Hong Kong
Shanghai
Yokohama
Manila ...
Batavia
Sidney... i ...
Valparaiso ...
Callao
Honolulu
San Francisco
Via canal.
Gain.
Lstance.
Days.
Distance.
Days.
Distance.
Days.
14,930
110
12,480
83
2,450
27
15,200
115
12,200
81
3,000
- 34
15,750
119
11,550
79
4,200
40
13,700
108
12,260
80
1,440
28
12,170
105
13,425
87
18
12,220
105
10,480
75
2,740
30
9,760
93
6,510
52
3,250
41
11,100
105
6,710
53
4,390
52
14,500
121
7,400
54
7,100
67
14,840
130
7,470
58
7,370
72
94
DARIEN SHIP CANAL.
Return.
Present route.
From.
Hong Kong.. .
Shanghai
Yokohama
Manila
Sidney
Valparaiso ...
Callao
Honolulu
San Francisco,
To.
Distance.
Days.
New York
do.. .
do.
.do
do.
do.
do
.do.
.do.
14,660
16,000
16,070
14,010
13,410
9,780
11,120
15,760
14,970
110
113
114
109
110
90
100
110
125
Via canal.
Distance.
Days.
11,875
11,305
10, 370
12,035
10,390
4, 965
3, 690
8,055
5,980
Gain.
Distance.
87
80
77
88
70
42
32
63
50
2,785
4,695
5,700
1,975
3,020
4,815
7,430
7,705
8,990
Days.
23
33
37
21
40
48
68
47
75
In conclusion, it is a pleasure to recommend to the favorable notice of the Department Lieu¬
tenants Collins, Eaton, and Sullivan, who volunteered to accompany me on the present expedition.
The frequency with which their names appear upon the pages of these reports indicates the
positions of honor and trust which they have so worthily filled, and is the best4 evidence of the
zeal and ability which they have always displayed.
To Commander Belknap and officers of the Tuscarora I am indebted for valuable assistance
and co-operation, without which it would have been impossible for me to have carried on the survey.
Trusting I have met the expectations of the Department in the execution of the original
orders to survey the Isthmus of Darien for a ship-canal, delivered to me in January, 1870,
I have the honor to be, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
THOS. O. SELFRIDGE,
Commander, Commanding Darien Exploring Expedition.
Hon. George M. Robeson,
Secretary of the Navy, Washington, D. C.
REPORT
UPON
THE HYDROGRAPHIC OPERATIONS OF THE ATLANTIC DIVISION OF THE
DARIEN EXPEDITION,
BY
♦
commander 33. 3?. 3l.ttlx,, tj, s. n".,
1870.
United States Ship Guard, (4th Bate,)
New York, July 15, 1870.
Sir : 1 would respectfully submit the following report of the operations of the " Hydrographie
party" iu the late Darien Expedition, under your command.
This vessel arrived at Caledonia Bay, Saturday, February 19, 1870, and oil the following
Monday the preliminary steps were taken for a survey of the harbor. For this purpose a base
line was selected on the shore of that portion of the harbor known on former charts as "Agla-
turnado Bay." A broken base of two sections was measured by Mr. Marindin, Sub-Assistant
United States Coast Survey, assisted by Mr. F. M. Eppley, commander's clerk of this vessel. The
triangulation of the harbor, by theodolite, was at once commenced by Mr. A. T. Mosman, Assist¬
ant United States Coast Survey, and was continued by him until his services were required in one
of the shore parties. The triangulation was afterward continued by Messrs. Ogden and Marindin,
Sub-Assistants United States Coast Survey, and by myself, (using a sextant instead of a theodolite,)
until the whole of Caledonia Bay, embracing Sassardi Bay, Caledonia Harbor, and Eseocés Harbor
had been completed.
As soon as a sufficient number of signals had been established, the hydrography was com¬
menced and steadily continued until completed. The following officers were employed upon the
hydrography at different times, viz : Sub-Assistant H. L. Marindin, United States Coast Survey,
Ensigns J. G. Eaton, G. S. Davol, A. Elliot, J. M. Hawley, and 27. E. 27iles, United States 27avy ;
Lieutenant S. K. Allen, United States Marine Corps, and Acting Gunner C. C. Neil, United States
27a vy.
The shore-line was put in by myself principally, but was not completed, owing to want of
time. One day's work with the plane-table was done by Mr. Ogden, in one of the very few spots
where that instrument could be used ; the dense growth of mangrove and other tropical vegetation
along the shores and for a considerable distance into the water, rendering the use of the plane-
table impossible, except as stated above, in a very few spots. The rest of the work had all to be
done with the sextant, taking angles upon a boat's mast for distances.
There was, unfortunately, but one draughtsman attached to the expedition, and so vigorously
was the work of the shore parties advanced, that his time was very fully occupied in reducing to
paper the result of their labors. The hydrographie work was, therefore, not plotted. Sufficient
was, however, done to show that the harbor chart, based on the survey of Mr. Parsons, Boyal
27avy, in 1854, is perfectly reliable and correct. The latitude9 longitude, and azimuth were obtained
by Mr. Mosman, the observatory being established on Cocoanut Island, in Caledonia Harbor, (the
island known as "Bobbin Key," in Mr, Parsons's chart.) Mr. Mosman has given the description of
96
I)ARIEN SHIP-CANAL,
the instruments used, and the results of liis observations in his own detailed report. The work
was continued up to the last day of our stay in Caledonia Bay, viz, to April 10, 1870.
Caledonia Bay contains four distinct harbors, viz, Sassardi Bay, Grant Harbor, Caledonia
Harbor, and Escoeés Harbor. All of these are cor.modious and comparatively easy of access, and
contain plenty of water for vessels of any size, with good holding-ground.
Sassardi Harbor, the most northern of these, is just inside of Sassardi Point, which forms the
harbor, and protects it, in some measure, from the heavy trade-wind swell. There are dangerous
shoals at the entrance, and it would never be safe for a stranger to enter it without a pilot. It is
also quite difficult for a vessel of any size to get out of this harbor under sail with the trade wind
which prevails here from November to June.
Grant Harbor, named by yourself, is the northernmost part of that portion of Caledonia Bay
lying between the main shore and the Sassardi Islands, which latter form its protection from the
trade-wind and its accompanying swell, making the harbor perfectly safe in all weathers and as
smooth as a mill-pond. The only entrance, however, for vessels of more than 12 feet draught, is
the same as that of Sassardi Bay. '
Caledonia Harbor is next to the southward of Grant Harbor, from which it is separated by a
bar on which there is a depth of from 12 to 11 feet of water ; it is formed by the same chain of
• •
islands with the latter, and is equally safe and commodious, while it is easy of access and egress
under sail and without a pilot. These two harbors contain a large number of small keys, mostly
of a coral formation, and densely covered with mangrove and other tropical trees and bushes.
There are also numerous coral shoals of greater or less extent, which are laid down on the chart,
but which in the event of the harbor being very much used would have to be either buoyed or
blasted and dredged away.
Between Caledonia Harbor and Escoeés Harbor there is an open space of three miles
extent, entirely exposed to the seâ, and containing three dangerous shoals, the more so, that,
notwithstanding they have received the name of u Reveiitazonesthere is no perceptible break upon
them except when the sea is very heavy.
Escoeés Harbor, formed by the point of the same name, is a deep bay containing good water,
and being well protected. It is, however, obstructed by numerous rocks and shoals, and is very
difficult of egress by a vessel under sail. The site of the old Scotch colony, planted here about anno
Domini 1700, is still distinctly marked by the moat which was dug around Fort Saint Andrew.
Tides.—The tides are semi-diurnal, the extreme rise and fall is 14 inches, and there is scarcely
any tidal current excex>t in the openings between the islands, where it amounts to about a knot an
hour. There is an almost constant current in Grant and Caledonia Harbors, thought to be caused
by the trade-wind, which draws through from north-northwest to south-southeast, parallel with the
shore. The rate of this current is about a quarter of a knot south-southeast.
Fresh ivater.—Numerous fresh-water streams emx)ty into Caledonia Bay, but during the dry
season are nearly all more or less brackish at their mouths, and are difficult of access for boats
The Sassardi River is the most easy to ai>l>roach and contains the best water.
Cocoa-nuts, cocoa, alligator-pears, limes, bananas, plantains, and some few other trox>ical fruits
are to be had in great abundance, and constitute articles of trade between the natives and a few
small coasting schooners which occasionally visit the locality.
On the 19th of April, as above stated, the work of surveying the harbor was discontinued, on
the receix>t of your order to proceed to the Gulf of San Bias.
HYDROGRAPHIC SURVEY OF MANDINGA HARBOR, GULF OF SAN BLAS.
On the 25th of April, 1870, was commenced the survey of that portion of the Gulf of San
Bias, named by yourself " Mandinga Harbor." A base-line was measured on the western shore of
the harbor by Mr. J. A. Sullivan, United States Coast Survey, assisted by Mr. Eppley, com¬
mander's clerk of this vessel. The astronomical observatory was, at the same time, established at
NewNipsic Point, by Mr. Mosman, and a tide-gauge located at the same point. The following
organization of the hydrographie party was made and the work advanced as rapidly as possible,
viz: Triangulation, Messrs. J. A. Sullivan and A. T. .Mosman, Assistants United States Coast
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
97
Survey. Shore-line, Lieutenant-Commander Lull and Mr. Sullivan. Hydrography, Lieutenant-
Commander Lull, Ensigns A.Elliot and J. M. Hawley. Ensigns Hawley and Niles established
nearly all of the hydrographie signals. Toward the close of the operations, Ensigns J. G. Eaton
and G. S. Davol assisted in the hydrography, and Mr. H. L. Marindin, United States Coast
Survey, performed some work in putting in outlying islands with the plane-table.
A chart of the harbor based on our work has been furnished you. This chart also shows the
western entrance to the Gulf of San Bias, laid down from observations taken principally under
your own immediate direction.
Some dangerous shoals exist in the harbor, but with the use of the chart, there would be no
difficulty in avoiding them, or in entering the harbor and selecting a good anchorage. The harbor
is very commodious, well protected, and affords good holding-ground.
The whole work of surveying the harbor occupied twenty-five days. Number of miles of
soundings run, 182 ) number of angles taken, 1,496 ; number of soundings, 8,097.
The corrected establishment of the port is 12h 50m ; the mean rise and fall of the tides is 0.8
foot ) the tides are semi-diurnal ; the tidal current is inapplicable.
The supplies of fruits, &c., are about the same as at Caledonia Bay, though I found the Indians
much more disposed to traffic than at the latter place.
Eresh water of a very fair quality can be obtained in the mouths of one or two of the little
streams which flow into the harbor, but the southern mouth of the Mandinga River will be found
most easy of access for the purpose. ,
The triangulation stations are all accurately marked by bottles buried for the purpose, and
could easily be re-occupied (by reference to the chart) should it ever be determined to continue
the work.
Yery respectfully,
EDWARD P. LULL,
Lieutenant- Commander.
Commander T. O. Selfridob,
Commanding Darien Expedition,
H. Mis. 113 13
REPORT
UPON
THE SURVEYING OPERATIONS OF THE ATLANTIC DIVISION OF THE
DARIEN EXPEDITION,
BY
coyiint^yistioier 3e. xl lull, xt. s. in".,
1871.
United States Ship Guard, (4th Rate,)
At Sea, July 15, 1871.
Sir : I would respectfully present the following report of the proceedings of the Atlantic
division of the Darien Exploring Expedition, from February 8,1871, the date of your departure
to the Pacific side.
On the 6th of February, two days previously, under instructions issued by yourself, a party
left the Guard to begin the survey of the route across the divide, following the course of the Per
anchita River, this at that time being considered the principal object to be accomplished.
The survey of the harbor, together with observations for the tidal establishment, experiments
to test the amount of evaporations, &c., were being carried on at the same time and will all be men¬
tioned in the hydrographie report.
The Peranchita party consisted of Master A. R. Couden, in charge, Mr. A. D. Beach, civil-
engineer, Midshipman L^ G. C. Salter, five seamen and eight macheteros, and was supplied with
the necessary instruments, camp-equipage, &c., and with two weeks' provisions.
Taking passage in the steam-launch, with the flat-boats Cacarica and Bessie in tow, they
arrived at the Loma de Gacarica the same evening, and with the aid of mosquito-bars managed to
pass a comparatively comfortable night.
On the following morning Mr. Couden transferred his men, instruments, and camp outfit to
the fiat-boats, with as much of his provisions as he could well take, landed the rest, (about one-half,)
at the Loma, and continued his journey, while Lieutenant-Commander Schulze in the steam-launch
proceeded up the Atrato to the village of u Rio Sucio," in quest of a canoe or chamjpa, and two
men to work it, to be used in forwarding supplies to Mr. Couden. He was unsuccessful in finding
either at Sucio, but on his return engaged at the Loma a negro, named José Maria, and two days
later, at the village of Turbo, another man and a champa, exactly suited to our needs. These two
men proved to be very reliable and trustworthy, and were of the greatest use to us during the
whole time our operations continued, José, who acted as patron, being thoroughly acquainted with
the country.
The whole country for some miles beyond the mouth of the Cacarica, towards the base of the
mountains, is, with the exception of a few isolated lomas, entirely overflowed, making it utterly
impassable for pedestrians, while so thick is the vegetation, and so frequent the collections of log s
&e., which have been massed together by heavy freshets, that the navigation, except for smal
canoes, is almost impossible, and even they have frequently to be unloaded and dragged across the
obstructions. Mr. Couden had, therefore, as already remarked, landed a portion of his provisions
so as to leave his boats as light as possible.
100
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
In order to reach the Peranchita, it was necessary to follow up the Cacarica for some three
miles, then to cross a lake of the same name, a very pretty little sheet of clear, cold water, about a
mile and a half in diameter. After leaving the lake, the route led for about a mile through a
swamp, where the first real difficulties of the journey commenced, for, although there was, at that
season, water enough to float the boats, the grass, weeds, interlacing branches of trees, parasites,
and other obstructions, made it necessary to clear a passage at almost every foot of the way, while
the little breeze which had been felt in the lake and river was entirely cut off, rendering the heat
intense. The party, however, worked on cheerfully, at least the officers and seamen, for the
macheteros, having been permitted to spend the night with some India-rubber hunters at the
Loma, had indulged too freely in drink to be of any use. After passing through this swamp, the
river Arayo was reached, making comparatively easy navigation for a short distance. The Arayo
rises somewhere to the southward of the Peranchita, and flows toward the Atrato. Its channel is
distinctly marked by the line of trees and bushes on either side, though the banks did not appear
above water, at the lowest stage which we saw. Near the point where Mr. Couden entered it, the
river became entirely lost in the swamp.
The clear water of the Arayo carried the party but a short distance, when they came to the
mouth of the Perancha. Just before reaching this, however, night overtook them, and finding a
tree upon the root of which there was space to build a fire, they stopped for the night. Supper
having been cooked and disposed of, strenuous efforts were made to sleep, with very little success,
however, notwithstanding the fatigues of the day, as the boats were so crowded there was no room
to spread mosquito-bars.
On the following day, February 8, the party made an early start, and pushed their way through
the Perancha. The channel of this river is filled with tall gramalote grass, and was by far the
most difficult part of the whole route to pass through ; the oars could not be used at all for pulling,
and the bottom was too soft and the river generally much too deep to use poles in the ordinary
manner ; the men were obliged carefully to set theiroar-blades against the roots of the grass, and
push their boats along as well as such a yielding support would permit ; it was very slow work,
and several hours were consumed in going a distance of three miles. What little indication of
channel there was, was extremely tortuous in direction, leading the boats frequently under the
overhanging branches of the trees, and twice during the trip large, ugly-looking snakes were seen
suspended from them, and apparently ready to drop into the boats as they passed.
Abundance of swamp life and most intense heat added to the discomfort of this part of the
trip, and it was with feelings of intense relief to all hands that, at about noon, open water was
again reached.
After going a short distance farther, the banks of the river commenced to appear, and at about
1 p. m. a landing was effected on the left bank of the Perancha, a few rods below the mouth of
the Peranchita.
The remainder of the day was spent in establishing a cauip, as it was believed that the survey
could be commenced from here. The ground was very marshy, and but four or five inches out of
water, but apparently was quite solid underneath.
February 9.—Mr. Salter, with the flat-boat Oarcarica and six men, started to the Loma, to bring
up the remainder of the provisions, arriving there the same evening. Mr. Couden and Mr. Beach-
made a reconnaissance ahead for a short distance, to ascertain the character of the country, and
found it more swampy as they advanced. Returning to camp, Mr. Beach established a bench-mark
at an assumed elevation of 100 feet, and started his line with the gradienter, which instrument
was used during the whole of the survey. A distance of 4,112 feet was run, increasing the eleva¬
tion less than four-tenths of a foot.
February 10.—Mr. Couden, on turning out in the morning, found his camp flooded, the river
rising perceptibly, with a current up stream, a rise having taken place in the rivers below, backing
the waters up. It at once became necessary to seek a safer- locality for the provisions; Mr. Couden
and Mr. Beach, therefore, proceeded up the river in the Bessie, entering the Peranchita on reach¬
ing its mouth. This soon led them into a palm-swamp, with soft muddy bottom, through which it
would have been impossible to run the line with the gradienter, at the then stage of the water.
Beyond the palm-swamp the stream became narrow, with firm banks and a rapid current. It was
DABIEN SHIP-CANAL.
101
concluded to move the camp to a point above the swamp, and to recommence the line, leaving the
lower portion to be done at a lower stage of the water. As the Bessie was too small to transport
the provisions, however, Mr. Couden concluded to await the return of Mr. Salter, who was expected
on the following day in the flat-boat Cacarica. In the mean time Mr. Salter, instead of returning
to the front, had concluded to proceed down the Atrato to the Guard, one of his men having been
taken sick, and he having misunderstood an order in regard to a communication intrusted to him
by Mr. Couden, for the senior officer. He arrived on board the same afternoon.
February 11.—The water still rising in Mr. Couden's camp, he was obliged to build a strong, high
platform, to secure his provisions and other camp equipage. The line was run a short distance far¬
ther, to facilitate connecting it with the advanced station, when it should be attempted to do so.
February 12.—Two weeks' additional provisions were sent from the Guard to Mr. Couden, by
Mr. Salter, whose party had now been re-enforced by the champa and its crew, the steam-launch
towing his boats as far as the Loma de Cacarica. The senior officer also accompanied Mr. Salter,
with the intention of visiting Mr. Couden.
Master J. P. Merrill and Midshipman Peck took passage in the launch to the Loma, to estab¬
lish the latitude and longitude of that point by astronomical observations. The Loma was reached
that evening, and on the following morning an early start was made by the provision-party, with
the Cacarica and the champa. The route through the swamps having been made somewhat more
passable by the two trips which had been made through them, the journey clear through was
easily accomplished by a little after dark, without farther adventure than a few attacks from
wasps and an alarm caused by an iguana, which fell into the flat-boat from the branch of a tree,
and which, experiencing about as much fright as it could, jumped about under foot in its efforts to
escape, in so lively a manner as to make it impossible for a few seconds to discover what it was.
The channel through the palm-swamp was so tortuous that it was frequently necessary to cut
down trees in order to get the Cacarica through. The champa was found to work admirably,
carrying easily two weeks' provisions for the whole party. Mr. Couden had in the meantime, with
great labor and making numerous trips in the Bessie, moved his provisions, &c., to camp No. 2,
the point selected on Friday.
«
On the following day, February 14, a new bench-mark was established by Mr. Beach, with the
same assumed elevation, i. è. 100 feet, at the point where the Peranchita enters the palm-swamp.
Yery good progress was made during the day, the line following the channel of the stream, or
rather one of them, for the land being very low and soft, the river has numerous channels at this
point, each very small, so that it was impossible to carry the Cacarica farther up, and the champa
and punt had to be relied upon for moving camp, &c. A distance of 6,142 feet was made during
the day, showing a rise of but 3.3 feet in the elevation. During the night the men were alarmed
by what was supposed to be a tiger prowling about the camp, but failed to get a clear view of the
intruder.
The senior officer having ascertained the condition and wants of the party, returned to the
Loma in the champa, and thence, finding that Mr. Merrill had finished his astronomical work at
the Loma, proceeded down the Atrato in the steam-launch, arriving at 10 p. m. at the head of the
Caîio Coquito, where he came to anchor for the night, having fouled the screws of the launch in
attempting to enter the cano. On the following morning he passed through and returned to the
ship. The trade-winds had by this time commenced to set in very regularly, usually making early
in the forenoon and gradually increasing in strength until sunset, dying out slowly from that time
until midnight, when it became quite calm, and occasionally a land-breeze sprang up for a few
hours. The trade-wind brought in a very smoky atmosphere, rendering it difficult to see distant
objects, but very agreeably moderating the temperature.
February 15.—Mr. Couden and party continued their line, making an advance of 1,864 feet,
carrying the elevation up to 7.2 feet above the first bench-mark. They passed the forks of the
Peranchita, which became a stream 60 feet wide, but quite shallow, with very little current.
February 16.—Mr. Couden's progress became slow and tedious, the underbrush forming a per¬
fect jungle, overhanging the river-banks in such a way as to be very difficult to get at in order to
- cut it away ; not a foot of advance could be made without vigorous use of the machete-knife.
102
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
\
On the same day the Kipsic arrived at Columbia Harbor from Aspinwall, bringing us certain
stores which we had been obliged to send for, among the rest a small quantity of lumber, not a foot
of which is obtainable at Turbo.
February 17.—The Peranchita party, still following the bed of the stream of that name, part of
♦
the time making fair progress, and again, finding the cutting very difficult, made 2,105 feet during
the day, giving a total elevation of ten feet above the bench-mark Ko. 1. The banks of the river
about 1 feet high, and the water from 3J to 4J feet deep, making it impossible to use the instru¬
ments in the water.
On the 18th Mr. Couden moved camp, and being obliged to carry all his provisions as well as
his camp equipage, the greater part of the day was exhausted before camp Ko. 3 was finally estab¬
lished, the site of an old ranch formerly occupied by rubber-hunters being selected. The banks
of the river here are about 6 feet high, and afford the first really dry ground which had been
found. Fish were found quite abundant in the stream and added somewhat to the comfort of the
party.
February 20.—Mr. Barnes, the chief civil engineer, who had returned from a visit to Aspin-
wall in the Kipsic, and Dr. G. A. Maacke, geologist, who had finished the special investigations near
Turbo, directed by yourself, started in the steam-launch, from the ship, to join Mr. Couden's party.
The provision-champa being sent to carry the two officers from the Loma to the front, and also to
carry one week's additional provisions to Mr. Couden. Mr. McKenna, a representative of the Kew
York Herald, also took this opportunity of visiting the interior. The party reached the Loma that
evening, and on the following evening at about dark joined Mr. Couden, who bad, during that
and the previous day, advanced 5,451 feet, gaining a total elevation of 16 feet above bench-mark
Ko. 1.
February 22.—The Kipsic started to Punta Carabanas, on the northeast side of the Gulf of
Darien, to establish the position of the point by astronomical observations, and to sound out a
shoal in that vicinity. Master J. S. Sullivan, with Midshipman J. H. Bull and seven blue-jackets,
started to the mouth of the Cacarica in the steam-launch, having the flat-boat Atrato in tow, to
commence the wTork of connecting by traverse Mr. Couden's bench-mark Ko. 1 with the Loma de
Cacarica. The Atrato not being well suited for his purpose, he was directed, to exchange her for
the Cacarica on arriving at Mr. Couden's camp, and also to take the Bessie to assist in the work,
as two boats would be required. Mr. Sullivan was supplied with sextant, compass, log-line, and
lead and line, the intention being to run the courses by compass and to measure the distance^ by
angling with sextant upon a boat's mast, at a given height. The depth and current of the rivers
to be measured frequently.
One of the engines of the steam-launch getting out of order, Mr. Sullivan did not reach the
Loma until the following morning, when he met the provision-champa, which had just arrived from
Mr. Couden's camp, and the patron of which was to act as his guide in reaching bench-mark Ko. 1,
which was to be the initial point of his traverse. The two champa men demurred considerably at
making an immediate return, but Mr. Sullivan soon succeeded in overcoming their objections, and
got under way in the Atrato by 10.30 a. m., reaching Lake Cacarica by 12.30 ; crossing the lake
the swamp was entered, where slow progress was made. There having been no rain for some time
the water had fallen very considerably, rendering the obstructions much more difficult to pass than
when it was higher. Kight found the party at the mouth of the Perancha, and a halt was made
at the same tree-root that had been used by Mr. Couden on his way up for making a fire. Great
caution had to be used by the party as well as all previous and subsequent ones when passing the
numorous wasp's nests which infest these swamps. The natives especially hold the wasps in great
dread, and always maintain perfect silence when passing them. After supper the boats were
hauled out into the stream and anchored to escape as much as possible the mosquitoes.
On the following morning, the 24th, an early start was made in order to get through the Per¬
ancha before the hottest of the day ; and so as to lose no time a fire was made in the boat in a
box of sand, for cooking breakfast, a very unsatisfactory way of cooking, but one which had to be
frequently resorted to by various parties in the expedition. By 10 o'clock the open route was
again reached, much to the relief of all hands, after passing through the gramalote, which is just
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
103
tall enough to shut out all air without offering the least shade, and infested with insects, the prin¬
cipal of which is the vicious congo fly, which keeps " watch and watch" with the mosquito, doing
duty during daylight, and being promptly relieved by countless millions of the latter as soon as the
sun disappears for the night. Numerous varieties of ants, more or less troublesome, infest the grass
as well as almost every tree and shrub in this locality ; spiders, tarantulas, wasps, hornets, and
great numbers of other insects whose names are unknown, but all more or less bravo or valiente, to
use the language of the natives. The sense in which these two words are used form, by the way,
a curious illustration of the effect which the history and characteristics of a people have upon
their language. As, among the early settlers and conquerors of Central and South America, those
who were most brave and valiant were ever the most aggressive ; so the former two adjectives have
assumed the meaning of the latter and have ceased to have any other.
Pushing on, Mr. Sullivan and party passed through the palm swamp, reaching bench-mark
No. 1 at about one o'clock p. m. This was to be the initial point for the survey, but as the flat-
boat Atrato was to be exchanged for the Cacarica, they continued as far as Mr. Couden's camp.
The river having within the past few days fallen considerably, it was only by the severest labor
that the boat could be forced up the Peranchita at all. The whole party were obliged to take to
the water and drag her along as best they could, the deep clingy mud at the bottom adding in no
small degree to the difficulty of the undertaking. It frequently became necessary to cut down
trees in order to turn in the narrow channel, and at other times the boat had to be lifted by main
force over the obstructions. A short distance above camp No. 2 they had to abandon the boat
altogether. Taking a couple of days' rations they moved forward on foot, the trail crossing the
stream frequently. The provision-champa, which was considerably lighter than the Atrato, had suc¬
ceeded in getting along without greater difficulty than hard work, and by her assistance, when the
stream became too deep to ford, the whole party reached Mr. Oouden's camp No. 3 by night-fall,
where a supper of fried bacon and coffee, hard bread, and soup and bouilli, was heartily enjoyed.
Mr. Couden had iq the mean time advanced so far that it was necessary to move camp, for
which purpose the champa and the Bessie were both needed, as it was impossible to move any
farther up with the larger flat-boats. On the following morning, the 25th, Mr. Couden broke camp,
Mr. Sullivan taking the Cacarica, (which had been brought up some distance above camp No. 2,
although it was at first thought impossible to do so,) and starting down to await at camp No. 2
until the Bessie could be spared. The party experienced nearly as much difficulty in getting the
Cacarica down the river as they had the previous day in getting the Atrato up, although she was a
much handier boat than the latter, but the water had fallen considerably in the mean time. On
reaching the Atrato all the provisions, instruments, &c., were transferred to the Cacarica, and
after a good deal of hard work camp No. 2 was reached. Here they waited for two days for the
Bessie, which did not reach them until Monday evening, the 27th, employing themselves in the
mean time principally in fighting the mosquitoes and congoes ; the former, unlike those which
were met before reaching the hard ground, continuing their attentions during the day as well as
during the night, the Cacarica with the provisions was moved down below the obstructions, as
was supposed.
Tuesday, the 28th, an early start was made, in company with the provision-champa, which
with Dr. Maacke, naturalist, as a passenger, was on its way to the Loma, for more provisions for
Mr. Couden's party.
Bench-mark No. 1 was reached after a great deal of labor, for although it was supposed that
the flat-boat had been brought below all the obstructions, it was found that, owing to the falling of
the waters, the channel had become obstructed where it was perfectly plain sailing when going
up; in one place they were obliged to cut down eight trees in order to advance the boat 25 feet.
At bench-mark No. 1 the traverse was commenced. Mr. Sullivan attempted at the outset to
ascertain the distances on each course by measuring from the Bessie at one end, with a sextant,
the angle subtended by the Cacarica's mast at the other, the mast being 21 feet high from the
boat's sail; the thick, low-hanging foliage made this method impossible, and recourse was had to
the log-line, stretched from one boat to the other. The bearings were taken with a prismatic com¬
pass. Yery short courses were observed, owing to the tortuousness of the channel, averaging not
104
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
more than thirty yards ; this of course made the work very slow and tedious. Camp No. 1, in the
Perancha, was reached by evening, being Station No. 126 of the traverse.
March 1.—Mr. Sullivan made an early start, cooking breakfast in the sand-box while under
way. After working for about one hour in the open water of the Perancha, the gramalote was
entered. Mr. Bull going ahead in the Cacarica, and Mr. Sullivan following in the Bessie, (from
which boat the courses were taken,) the gramalote was passed by sunset, after a most exhausting
day's work. The low stage of the water making the passage of the boats through the grass more
difficult than ever; the fresh air on reaching the Arayo was a great relief. A halt was made at
the same tree-root which had twice before been used to build a fire upon. The water in the
Perancha was found to have an average depth of 18 feet, with soft mud bottom.
On the following day, starting at day light, the traverse was continued down the Arayo.
Being in open water, Mr. Sullivan was able to use the sextant for measuring distances, and conse.
quently made much more rapid progress than on the previous day. The Arayo varies in width
from thirty to forty yards, and has an average depth of 30 feet.
At about 10 a. m., the first grass swamp was reached ; here Mr. Sullivan was again obliged to
have recourse to the lead line for measuring distances, and the remainder of the day's work was
nearly as severe as that experienced in passing through the gramalote grass of the Perancha. Just
as it was growing too dark to work any longer, the line emerged into lake Cacarica. The boats
were anchored for the night in the center of the lake, and being three-fourths of a mile from its
borders, with a fresh breeze blowing, the party enjoyed a glorious night's rest, being entirely free
from mosquitoes for the first time since leaving the Guard.
The next day, March 3, the traverse was continued across the lake and down the Cacarica
river, to within a short distance of the Loma, where the river was found completely blockaded by
floating islands of grass and small trees. Mr. Sullivan attempted to cut a channel through, but as
fast as he made an opening, the islands closed together again, making the obstruction as complete
as before.
Repeated efforts had been made previously by parties, sent from the ship for that purpose, to
clear this blockade away, but always with the same result, the channels closing up as soon as
opened. The India-rubber hunters, who had two or three large bungoes in the river above it, in¬
formed us that it would probably all float out when the rains commenced again, causing freshets
above.
Finding himself unable to proceed, Mr. Sullivan returned to the second Loma for the night,
and on the following morning, leaving the Bessie, he took all the party, instruments, &e., in the
Cacarica, and proceeded down the river. Beaching the tapon, he turned out of the channel into the
swamp, where the water had now become very shallow, and being full of obstructions, and teeming
with swamp life, the work of getting through it was very difficult. The bottom was not firm
enough to give foot-hold, so that getting overboard was impracticable. After gaining about one
hundred and fifty yards, the men became so much exhausted with the heat and labor, that they
were obliged to stop and spread the awning until they could recover. While resting they were
greeted with the sound of the steam-launch's whistle from below. Gaining new.courage from this,
they started again, and soon succeeded in getting afloat below the tapon, but on turning the bend
found another, still between them and the launch, a portion of the gramalote which had been
loosened from the one above having lodged again. It was found impossible to get the flat-boat over
this, though the greatest exertions were made to do so. Mr. Sullivan finally concluded to secure
her, and transfer all the instruments, &c., to the launch, which was soon done, and at 1 p. m. he
started down the Atrato, arriving on board the ship at 7 p. m. A small portion of the traverse
was left, and finished at a subsequent time.
As has been mentioned, Dr. Maacke, naturalist, and Mr. Barnes, chief civil engineer, joined
the Peranchita party February 27; on the following day, a machetero was assigned to assist Dr.
Maacke. Mr. Barnes assumed the immediate direction of the survey, although Mr. Beach con¬
tinued to run the gradienter, as he had done from the first, Mr. Couden still commanding the party.
During the 22d, 23d, and 24th of February, the line was advanced 7,389 feet, by traverse, still fol¬
lowing the river-bed; this was necessary, as owing to the almost impenetrable jungle of vegetation
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
105
which existed, the only sure method of keeping the lowest level was to follow the water-courses,
which of course will always seek it. Constant explorations were made to the right and left, gen¬
erally by Mr. Barnes, to be sure that the line was following the most advantageous course. On the
24th, the line led through wild-plantain groves, which gave no shade, although they cut off the
air, making a very fatiguing day's work for the party. Bench-mark No. 9, which was reached at
the end of the day, showed an elevation of 40.7 feet above the initial point. Part of the provisions
were carried forward during the day, preparatory to moving camp.
February 25.—Camp No. 4 was established a short distance in advance of the head of the line,
using the Bessie and the champa for a portion of the way for moving, but finally thç stream became
too narrow to admit of being navigated, even by the champa, and the men were obliged to carry
the provisions and camp equipage on their backs the remainder of the distance. It being very
late before the new camp was reached, they could do very little in the way of building huts, and
during the night a sharp rain fell, the first for sometime, giving all hands a thorough drenching.
Dr. Maacke having reported to Mr. Couden that he had finished his investigations on this side
of the divide, was permitted to start on his return to the Guard, going in the Cacariea as far as
camp No. 2, and two days later, on the champa's being sent down for more provisions, he took
passage in her to the Loma, and thence to the ship in the steam-launch, which had come up to
bring additional supplies to Mr. Couden.
The Nipsic having finished the work assigned to her at Carabanas Point, returned to Columbia
Harbor, arriving on the 1st of March. On the 6th she sailed for Aspinwall, with dispatches for
yourself, detailing our movements up to that date, Dr. Maacke taking passage in her with orders
to report to you at the Gulf of San Miguel.
The Peranchita party made excellent progress for the next few days ; advancing February 27
4,393 feet ; on the 28th, 6,491 feet.
March 1.—Moved camp and advanced 7,456 feet. The bed of the stream had gradually changed
from mud to clay, and to clay and sand mixed, but no pebbles or rock 5 the banks 10 to 12 feet high.
March 2.—The line advanced 8,844 feet, bringing the elevation to 59 feet above bench-mark
No. 7.
March 3.—Moved to camp 6, on the spot where Mr. Barnes finished his reconnaissance, made
under your direction previous to your departure for the Pacific side. The line during this day
advanced 6,886 feet, the bed of the stream showing some rock for the first time.
March 4.—The patron of the provision-champa arrived at Mr. Couden's camp and reported
that the champa was at camp No. 3 with provisions, it having been impossible to bring her any
farther, and very difficult to come that far, as the water had fallen very much in the rivers below.
The line during the day advanced 8,041 feet.
March 8.—Camp was again moved. The country now commenced to rise much more rapidly.
Messrs Couden and Barnes, taking three days' rations, went ahead to reconnoiter. About a mile
above camp No. 8 they found a fall of about 200 feet, to pass which required the remainder
of the day. The main party advanced during the day 7,021 feet, bench-mark No. 19 being ele¬
vated 122 feet above bench-mark No. 1. On the following day Messrs. Couden and Barnes
continued up the stream, passing numerous falls from 10 to 12 feet, with the country rising rap¬
idly. They met numerous forks in the river, taking in each case the branch which led most to the
northward and westward. Finally, quitting the water-courses, they struck over the hills to the
northward and westward and reached the divide at about 11 a. m. The crest of the mountain was,
as usual in that region, very narrow, and gave a good view of each side, the Pacific slope appearing
to descend quite abruptly. The two officers followed the divide to the eastward for a short distance,
when their progress was arrested by a heavy growth of cactus. Starting back they arrived at
camp No. 8 the same evening. The line had advanced during the day 4,077 feet, to bench-mark
No. 21,147 feet above bench-mark No. 1.
March 10.—The line was continued 4,792 feet, arriving just below the great falls. On the
following day comparatively slow progress was made, owing to the rapid rise. Distance, 3,722 feet
with a rise of 98 feet for the<day, and a total of 317 feet above the first bench-mark. The river
here runs over a bed of rock.
H. Mis. 113—14
106
D ARIEN SHIP-CANÀL.
March 12.—Messrs. Couden, Beach, and Salter explored the river as far as the divide. Mr.
Barnes not at all well. On the 13th but 618 feet in horizontal distance was made, giving a rise of
300 feet, or nearly one foot of rise to two of horizontal distance.
As the end of the line was now above the great falls, Mr. Couden attempted to move the pro¬
visions forward, but the carrying party getting lost in the hills were obliged to return at night to
camp No. 8.
On the 14th the party running the instruments were furnished with rations to enable them to
encamp for the night at the end of the line, and during that day and the following the provisions,
&c., were movetj to the head-waters of the river, and a camp established at a very favorable posi¬
tion for continuing the work. The line was carried on during the two days 5,088 feet, to bench¬
mark No. 26, 688 feet above bench-mark No. 1.
* March 16.—Mr. Couden became uneasy on the subject of supplies, none having been received
since the 4th, and certain articles getting short. So, taking one man, he started down the river
himself, stopping for the night at camp No. 6, and arriving at camp No. 3 on the following afternoon.
Iu the mean time the forwarding of provisions and other necessaries to the party at the front had
become â very difficult and serious matter.
On the 6th Midshipman Peck, with the steam-launch, carried to the Loma supplies for one
week for Mr. Couden's party, also taking a party to work upon the tapon in the mouth of the
Cacarica. Returning on the 10th Mr. Peck reported that the rivers had fallen so much as to render
it impossible for the champa to return to Couden's camp No. 3 by way of the Peranchita. The men
having had the greatest difficulty in getting her down empty to the Loma, she had started to return,
by way of the Cacarica, to the Bancho de las Mujeres, (afterwards named Camp Supply,) from
which place it would be necessary for the men to carry the provisions across tO'the Peranchita on
their backs. As the Cacarica, according to the reports of the India-rubber hunters, was in but
little better condition than the Perancha, it would, of course, require several days to arrive at Camp
Supply, and before José Maria could return and go again Mr. Couden's supplies would be exhausted.
On receiving this report on board the Guard, it became necessary to adopt other means of trans¬
portation immediately, as the one champa could, of course, no longer be depended upon. By
direction of the senior officer, Lieutenant-Commander Schulze proceeded at once to Turbo, where
he was fortunate enough to secure the services of the brothers Gabriel and Pedro Santacruz, who,
with two champas and four men, besides themselves, engaged to deliver 1,000 pounds of provisions
(about two weeks' supply) at Mr. Couden's advanced camp ; the steam-launch to tow their champas
as far as the Loma, from which point they proposed to adopt the route that José Maria had last
chosen, L e., by the Cacarica River to Camp Supply by champa, and from thence to carry the provis¬
ions upon their shoulders to the front. They were to have the assistance of all Mr. Couden's
macheteros in carrying, and also of live extra macheteros, part of whom had accompanied José
Maria and the others going from the Guard with the brothers Santacruz.
On the morning of March 13, Lieutenant-Commander Schulze, in the steam-launch, started for
the Loma de Cacarica with the provision party, also with a number of men to continue the work of
clearing away the tapon in the mouth of the river. Mr. Sullivan accompanied Mr. Schulze to con¬
nect the last station of his late survey with the Loma. Mr. Schulze arrived at the Loma on the
evening of the same day, and on the following morning the champas started off bright and early,
arriving at Camp Supply in about three days, and finding there José Maria's champa, which had
arrived but two or three days earlier, José himself having gone on to camp to notify Mr. Couden
and to get assistance to carry the provisions across.
On the 18th Mr. Couden, who had, as has been mentioned, arrived at camp No. 3 on the Peran¬
chita, on the previous day, received information from some India-rubber hunters that the three
champas had gone up the Cacarica with provisions. He at once started on his return, reaching
camp No. 5 at night-fall. On the following morning, continuing his return route, Mr. Couden
found at about a mile beyond camp No. 5 a small ranch, which had been recently occupied. This
was, although he was not aware of it at the time, the point where the provision party, crossing
from the Cacarica, had struck his line. Just above the great falls Mr. Salter was met by the
macheteros and two white men, going down with Gabriel and José Maria for the provisions. Mr.
Couden continued on and arrived at camp No. 9 the same evening.
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
10T
Mr. Beach reached the top of the divide on the 17 th, with an elevation at bench-mark No. 28,
of 1,201 feet above bench-mark No. 1. The ridge at this point was only about 25 feet wide, with a
slope on either side of about one to one for a short distance down. On the 18th an advance was
made along the ridge of 1,481 feet, to bench-mark No. 29, 1,058 feet above bench-mark No. 1. On
the 20th, 21st, and 22d the line proceeded along the divide to the eastward, the cutting very heavy
and the progress very slow. A thick, heavy growth of timber made it impossible to see in any
direction, except as a line was cleared away. Great difficulty was experienced in keeping on the
divide, on account of the spurs, which were very frequent, and often more prominent than the divide
itself. So many of the party were absent, that the cutting all devolved upon Mr. Couden and two
men of the party; but 3,517 feet were made on the true divide during the three days. Some rain
now falling each day.
On the 22d Mr. Salter arrived in camp, with a portion of the provisions, from Camp Supply
returning for the remainder on the following day.
Mr. Couden released the Santa Cruz brothers from farther services, as they had already con¬
sumed much more time than they had expected, from having to cut a trail through from Camp Sup¬
ply to the junction with the line of the survey.
The Nipsic arrived at Columbia Harbor, from Aspinwall, on the 17th of March, and having
been supplied with instruments, provisions, and other necessaries for the purpose, sailed on the
20th for the Gulf of San Bias, where Lieutenant Hubbard was to begin the reconnaissance of the
Carti-Seniqua River, as required by your general instructions. On the same day Mr. Schulze and
Mr. Sullivan returned from the Loma de Cacarica, Mr. Sullivan having finished his traverse, and
Mr. Schulze having made several channels through the Lapon, which closed up as fast as made.
March 23.—À-sloop arrived in the harbor, having on board a gentleman who represented him¬
self as Captain Javier Guerrero, of the Colombian army, and a commissioner on the part of the
Colombian Government to the Indian* chiefs of the Isthmus. Captain Guerrero was accompanied
by two Indians, who were said to belong to a deputation that had lately been at Bogotfi, on behalf
of the Isthmus tribes. Lieutenant-Commander Schulze invited Captain Guerrero to take up his
quarters on board the Guard, during his stay, and the next morning sent the steam-launch for the
senior officer, who was absent on hydrographie duty on the lower part of the Gulf. On the arrival
of the senior officer, Captain Guerrero stated that he had heard of our intended expedition to the
Tanela country, that his government had promised the Indians that no more exploring expeditions
should be permitted to pass through their territory, unless accompanied by a Colombian officer,
that he had been deputed to accompany any parties from our expedition who might be sent, but
that he was particularly desirous of communicating with yourself before he should be ready to do
so. We were at the time organizing a party, which was to start for the Tanela early in the follow¬
ing week, but at the urgent solicitation of Captain Guerrero, the senior officer, wishing to pay all
due respect to the wishes of the Colombian government and its representatives, consented to delay
the expedition for a few days, and to facilitate Captain Guerrero in communicating with yourself.
On the following morning, March 25, the senior officer, accompanied by Captain Guerrero and
Lieutenant-Commander Schulze, started in the steam-launch for the Loma de Cacarica, carrying at
the same time two weeks' additional provisions for Mr. Couden. They arrived at the Loma early
on the morning of the 26th, where they met the champa and the Santacruz brothers, who had
just arrived, having left Mr. Couden's camp on the 23d, as has been already mentioned. Arrange¬
ments were immediately made with the Santacruz brothers to carry forward the provisions which
were in the launch, José Maria assisting them, as it now required three champas to carry the
quantity which could easily be carried in one at a good stage of the water.
Provisions were furnished to Captain Guerrero, who took passage with the provision party,
intending to follow Mr. Couden's trail to the divide, from which point he felt confident of being
able to make his way to your head-quarters, on the Pacific side, where we supposed you to be.
After seeing Captain Guerrero off, the senior officers and Mr. Schulze returned to the gulf,
arriving on board the same evening. It might be mentioned here that the provision party accom¬
plished their trip in a little over a week, being facilitated by Mr. Salter as much as possible, and
not having to cut their road through from river to river. A sufficient quantity of provisions was
108
DABIEN SHIP-CANAL.
thus accumulated at the front to last for nearly a month, and some rain falling each day the water
commenced slowly to rise, so that it was probable that the champa would noW be able to do all
the work of transportation ; this soon proved true.
Captain Guerrero on arriving at camp 9, March 29, was furnished by Mr. Salter, who was in
charge at the time, with provisions and guides to take him on toward your headquarters, but
before reaching Paya, he heard of your having gone to the Napipi, and started to return by a way
of his own choosing to the Guard, his guides leaving him and returning to camp 9.
To return to the movements of the Peranchita party. On the 23d of March, Mr. Couden,
thinking it advisable to communicate with yourself, started with Chief civil engineer Barnes and
two men, to find the surveying party which was working up from the Pacific side. Passing down
from the ridge they soon struck a freshly cut trail, (probably made by rubber-hunters,) following
which they came to the river Penusa, and proceeded down that stream until they came to its junc¬
tion with the Cuë, to which it is tributary, where they encamped for the night, at an estimated
distance from the divide of eight miles. The following morning they started at an early hour
down the Cuë, and after walking about three miles met a party of rubber-hunters, who informed
them that surveyors were at work on the river Paya, near its mouth, and who also directed them
to a trail from the Cuë to the village of Paya; this trail was found about eleven miles below and
followed for about three miles more, when they encamped for the night, reaching Paya the next
morning, the 25th, at 9 o'clock. Nothing could be heard of the whereabouts of Mr. Eaton's party,
and after waiting nearly all day to see the chief, Mr. Couden succeeded in hiring a canoe to carry
himself and companions to the Tuyra, to start the following morning. About an hour later, how¬
ever, word was brought to him that some Indians just returned from hunting had seen some white
men on the Cuë. On the following morning the party started for the Cuë, under the guidance of
the Indians who had been hired as chamjpaneros, following the trail which they had come the day
before, although Mr. Couden strongly suspected that the report that white men had been seen to be
merely a ruse to turn him back. On reaching the river, Mr. Couden wrote a note and gave it to
the Indians to carry to where the white men had been seen, promising to wait for their return
with an answer. In about three hours and a half, the messengers returned with Mr. Eaton and
Dr. Eussell, to whose camp, about five miles below, the party very gladly proceeded. Here they
learned that you had gone to Limon Bay; so giving Mr. Eaton all the information they could, they
made preparations to return to the divide on the following morning; this, however, was prevented
by a sudden rise in the river, which also made it impossible for the surveyors to work, but on the
succeeding day, i. the 28th of March, the water had fallen enough to enable them to proceed,
which they did, encamping for the night at the mouth of the Penusa, reaching camp 9 at 3 p. m.
on the 29th, having lost three hours of time in looking for the trail, after reaching the foot of the
divide. In the mean time Messrs. Beach and Salter had been making strenuous efforts to find the
divide and keep upon it, but this was exceedingly slow work, owing to the fact already mentioned
that-the spurs were frequently more prominent than the real divide, and that the latter changed
its direction at almost every step. From the 23d to the 29th, inclusive, an advance of 2,388 feet
only was made, bringing the level at bench-mark No. 38 to 1,132 feet above bench-mark No. 1.
The last three days had been spent in unsuccessful reconnaissances. On the 30th the search
was renewed, and Mr. Barnes concluded that he had found the true divide. The line was recom¬
menced at bench-mark No. 33, and continued during that day and the following.
On the 31st Messrs. Couden and Barnes, reconnoitering ahead, found that all the recent
work was valueless, as the supposed divide was merely a spur running into the Peranchita Yalley.
The remainder of the day was spent in an unsuccessful search after the lost divide. Showers of
rain fell now every night, though the days were still generally clear and pleasant.
Your instructions required a line of levels to be run from Mr. Couden's bench mark No. 1 to
the mouth of the pacarica, and thence down the Atrato to tide-water. The water in the Perancha
and Cacarica fell so rapidly during February and the early part of March, that the senior officer
entertained strong hopes that the banks of those rivers would soon become dry, or at least firm
enough to support the weight of an instrument, and had the dry season lasted until the 20th of
April, as was expected, this might have been the case. He also hoped that the Peranchita party
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL. 109
would have finished their work in time to allow the gradienter, the only levelling instrument we
had, to be used on this work. In both of these he was disappointed, the rains commencing by the
20th of March. Unwilling to give up the idea of connecting bench-mark No. 1 with the mouth of
the Oacarica, the senior officer after considerable study, owing to his inexperience in snch matters,
succeeded in adjusting the railroad transit instrument to be used as a level. A party was organ¬
ized, consisting of Mr. J. T. Sullivan in charge, with Midshipman Bull as assistant, three seamen
to act as rodmen, &c., and two macheteros. They left the ship on the morning of the 1st of
April, in the steam-launch, the senior officer taking passage with the expectation of meeting the
Colombian commissioner at the Loma, on his return from visiting your head-quarters. After
proceeding a short distance from the ship, the launch was recalled by a signal gun, and on return¬
ing they found that the Santacruz brothers had returned from their second trip with provisions',
(of which mention has been made,) bringing communications from Mr. Couden, their champas
having come out by the Cano Coquita, while the steam-launch was heading for the mouth of the
Urabâ, which was the reason they had not met. Making a second start, a tube gave out in the
boiler of the launch, obliging her to return for repairs, an accident, by the way, which occurred
twice only during our stay at the gulf, a i>eriod of but a few days less than six months, during
which time the launch ran three thousand and two hundred miles. On the following day, the
launch having been repaired, a third start was made.
Shortly after entering the Cano Barbacoas, a bungo was met, which brought a letter from
yourself, dated at the mouth of the Napipi, March 27, informing the senior officer that you had
caused a survey to be made of that river, and in consequence somewhat modifying your general
orders to him in regard to the work to be done at that point. The steam-launch arrived at the
Loma early the following morning. Captain Guerrero had not arrived and it was afterwards proved
that he had taken another route. Mr. Sullivan, with the provision-champa and the Bessie, started
up the Cacarica, and the senior officer returned down the Atrato, arriving on board ship the same
evening.
On the 5tli of April Captain Guerrero returned in a canoe, with three Indians from Coque, or
one of the villages in that direction, and pronounced himself ready to accompany our party to the
Tanela country.
The Tanela party had been ready to start for some days, and consisted of Lieutenant-Com¬
mander Schulze in charge, Midshipman J. C. Kunhardt, assistant, with nine blue-jackets and one
machetero. The two Santacruz brothers had been engaged to act as guides and champa-men.
Two excellent champas were hired to be used in ascending the Tanela River, to carry the provi¬
sions, instruments, &c.
On the morning of the 7tli of April the party left the Guard in* tow of the steam-launch,
taking the ship's dinghy, also, to be used in the river-work as far as it could go. Don Rafael
Yejarano, judge of Turbo, accompanied Lieutenant-Commander Schulze as a volunteer, taking with
him one of his servants, an Indian boy, to act as interpreter.
The object of this expedition was in accordance with your general instructions, to make a
reconnaissance of a route which had been indicated by a French engineer, M. Lucien du Puydt,
as being a feasible one for a canal, and which, following the river Tanela from its mouth to the
forks, and thence, the left branch to its head-waters, crossed into the valley of Paya. Mr. Schulze
was directed to make a paced traverse, and to take barometric observations for heights, for which
latter purpose he was supplied with two mercurial mountain-barometers of excellent quality. Two
weeks' provisions were taken. As the route lay through the Indian country the party was thor¬
oughly armed with Remington carbines. Mr. Schulze also carried a number of presents to be given
to the chiefs and others.
M. Du Puydt seems to have known no other entrance to the Tanela than its regular mouth,
and speaks of the approach as quite dangerous, owing to a surf upon the bar formed by the sea rolling
in from the Caribbean. Our guides, however, led Mr. Schulze by a much more agreeable route?
passing through the Cano Coquito, up the .Barbacoas, to the forks, thence down the Tarena for a
distance of about four miles, where a short cano led into a small lake, at the entrance of which
he encamped for the night.
On the following day an attempt was made to cross the lake in the steam-launch, but although
110
DAEIEK SHIP-OAK AL.
there was water enough for the purpose, the thick growth of grass made it impossible to proceed with
the launch, by constantly fouling her propellers. The provisions, instruments, &c., were, therefore,
shifted into the dinghy and the champas, when the party continued on steering north by west, which
brought them to the mouth of the Cano Largo, on the shores of which a camp was formed, the
ground being solid and dry.
From camp 2, Mr. Hawley, who had accompanied the party thus far, returned to the steam-
launch and in her to the Guard, carrying a note from Mr. Schulze to the senior officer, reporting
progress and suggesting that Mr. Hawley return in one of the ship's cutters to camp Ko. 2, there
to await further news from the party. As we knew very little of the country, it was proposed
that Mr. Schulze, on reaching the Indian village, reported to be near the fork of the Tanela, (which
we hoped he would do in about two days,) should send back word to the senior officer, whether it would
be necessary to supply him with more provisions, and, if so, what means the character of the coun¬
try rendered most available for the purpose.
On the 9th Mr. Hawley started in the Guard's second cutter, carrying extra provisions in case
Mr. Schulze should need them, and not find means of sending for them. He arrived at camp 2 on
the same evening, where he landed his provisions in the huts which had been built when the camp
was first occupied, and which were afterwards greatly improved and made quite habitable, though
the mosquitoes were so " valiente" that it was found much more comfortable to spend the night on
the boat at anchor in the middle of the lake, spreading the tent awning to keep off the rain.
April 10.—The senior officer proceeded up the Atrato with one of the Guard's whale-boats, the
flat-boat Gacarica, five extra men, and one week's provisions, for Mr. Sullivan, whom he hoped to
meet at the Loma. Arriving on the following morning, he found Mr. Sullivan and party encamped
on the banks of the Gacarica, a few rods below the Loma, where the earth had for a short distance
appeared above water during the latter part of the dry season, although it was now rapidly disap¬
pearing.
Mr. Sullivan reported that he had carefully gone over the route and found it utterly imprac¬
ticable to connect, by a line of levels, the Loma with any point of Mr. Gouden's line, there being no
setting for an instrument or level rod for several miles of the distance. This fact was the less to
be regretted, as nature had supplied us with what amounted to the same thing that we were seek¬
ing. During the driest portion of the season, the waters in the Oacariea, and the swamps and
rivers above, fell until all current toward the Atrato ceased, so that we had a continuous sheet of
water at rest between the Loma and Mr. Gouden's bench-mark Ko. 1, the surface of which we re¬
garded as being level, and by observing the height of bench-mark Ko. 1 above the water, and by
making a corresponding observation at the Loma, we considered that we had obtained the differ¬
ence of level very accurately. Bench-mark Ko. 1 was by this means marked as 7 feet above the
bench-mark at the Loma.
The additional boats, men and provisions having been turned over to Mr. Sullivan, he was
directed to run his line down the Atrato, the banks of which were dry almost continuously to its
mouth. The senior officer then returned to the ship, arriving the same evening, and finding the
Kipsic anchored in the harbor, that vessel having just arrived from Aspinwall.
Your general instructions required that the channel of the Atrato should be sounded out from
the mouth of the Kapipi to that of the Cacarica. Preparations were now made to execute this
duty, and at the same time to make a reconnaissance of the river Bojaya, in consequence of certain
representations which had been made by Seilores Primo and Manuel Lozano, of Quibdo, and whose
letters on the subject were forwarded to you when received. According to the account given by
those gentlemen, the Bojaya., which enters the Atrato a few miles above the mouth of the Kapipi,
offered much greater advantages for a canal than the latter river ; the route proposed by them
being the following : Ascending the Bojaya for a distance of about eight leagues, to which point it
could be navigated in large canoes, the proper point to disembark was reached ; thence the route
led, by a way recently discovered, across a very low depression in the Cordillera, to Kabuga Bay
on the Pacific, the distance being easily traveled on foot in five hours. A man named Mayoral,
at the village of Yigia del Fuerte, at the mouth of the Bojaya, was indicated as being thoroughly
acquainted with the route-and willing to act as guide. Although not much dependence was placed
upon their statement, as the natives, according to our experience with them, have very little knowl-
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL
111
edge of either distance or elevation, their idea of alow depression being, almost without exception,
one whose approaches are not steep, yet it was deemed advisable to visit the Yigia and make
such examination as should prove necessary. The senior officer concluded to attend to this duty in
person, being accompanied by Master J. P. Merrill, who was to establish by chronometer the
longitude of various points on the Atrato, especially that of the mouth of the Napipi.
On the 14th the steamer Bolivar, then running between Oarthagena and Quibdo, arrived in the
harbor, bound up the Atrato, the master of which, Captain Frederick A. Lopez, very kindly offered
to give transportation, free of charge, to the two officers, the gig, and gig's crew of the Guard to
any point they desired to reach. This offer was gladly accepted, as the distance to the mouth of
the Bojaya was so great that it would have been difficult for the steam-launch to carry coal enough
for the trip there and back.
On the 14th, Mr. Hawley not having returned from the Tanela, the senior officer, accompanied
by Commander Wilson, of the Nipsic, started in the steam-launch, taking the gig in tow, to
visit him. Mr. Hawley was found at Sehulze's camp No. 2, where he had been waiting since the
9th without having heard from the advanced party.
Your last communication received by the Nipsic required that she should be sent to Key "West
if there was no other duty for her to perform, but as the departure of the Bojaya party would
leave but one commissioned officer, Master A. Elliott, on board the Guard, he being employed as
hydrographie draughtsman, it was thought prudent to detain the Nipsic until Lieutenant Com¬
mander Schulze should return from the Tanela, as he was expected earlier than any of the other
parties.
The senior officer, wishing to leave no chance untried of connecting Mr. Couden's bench-mark
No. 1 with the Loma by a line of levels, wrote a letter, leaving it to be forwarded to Mr. Barnes,
directing him to make, on his return from the Peranchita, a personal examination of the ground
recently gone over by Mr. Sullivan, to see if his opinions coincided with that of the latter, and in
case he should conclude that the work might be done, directing Mr. Couden to set a party at work
with the gradienter.
Arrangements having been made for keeping up the supply of provisions for Mr. Couden and
Mr. Sullivan, the senior officer and Mr. Merrill, with the gig and crew, started on the morning of
the 16th of April up the Atrato in the Bolivar, the gig being hauled aboard the steamer.
There were now four parties absent from the ship, besides Mr. Hawley and his boat's crew,
who were awaiting news from Mr. Schulze, and in order to keep the account of the proceedings of
each more clearly connected, it will probably be better to take up each one in the order of its re¬
turn to the Guard, going back to the date last mentioned in each case.
LEVELING DOWN THE ATEATO.
Mr. Sullivan started the work of leveling down the Atrato early on the morning of April 12,
(beginningat the bench-mark already mentioned as having been established in the Cacarica, below
the Loma,) making a new traverse at the same time, as but very few station-marks had been left
by the party who surveyed the river earlier in the season, their stations being nearly all in the
boats at anchor. To avoid heavy cutting Mr. Sullivan adopted the plan of running his courses
from bank to bank of the river, measuring the distances by angling upon the whale-boat's mast
and using the compass of the transit instrument for the bearings. Quite rapid progress was made.
The head of the Barbacoas was reached on the 19th, and during the day several stations were run
down that river. At night, being near the ship, Mr. Sullivan went on board with his party, word
having reached him that his boats would be needed for other uses for a day or two. On the 24th
he returned and finished his line to tide-water. The difference of level thus established between
the bench-mark at the mouth of the Cacarica and that at the mouth of the Barbacoas, after being
corrected for sphericity, was thirteen feet.
THE TANELA EXPEDITION.
The Tanela expedition, on the morning of April 9, with the dinghy and the two champas, left
camp No» 2 on the banks of the^Caîio Largo, and proceeded up that stream, making a general course
112
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
of N. by W. £ W. for a distance of one mile, when they reached the junction of the Carlo Tanela
and Cano Arquia, which, by their confluence, form the Cano Largo. Leaving the Arquia to the
westward, the party followed up the Cano Tanela, a very tortuous stream, about 30 feet wide at its
junction with the Arquia, but which soon narrows to five or six feet wide, and is full of obstructions
in the shape of fallen trees, nearly every one of which was the abode of a colony of wasps, much
to the annoyance of the explorers. All hands had to get overboard at every few feet of distance,
in order to get the boats past the obstructions, making a very severe day's work of it, that was not
rendered any less unpleasant by the presence of numerous alligators, which abound in this as well
as in all the streams in the vicinity.
After making a distance of three and a half miles on a general course of northwest by north,
the river Tanela was entered, late in the afternoon, and camp No. 3 was formed on the banks of
that stream about three-fourths of a mile farther up. A sharp rain fell during the night.
April 10 and 11 the expedition work up the Tanela to Port Cuti, a fishing and trading station
for the Indians of Tanela, Coque, Arquia, Unqui, and Cuti. The river below this point is from 75
to 100 feet wide, and varies in depth from 4 to 12 feet, with muddy bottom ; the banks have much
the character of those of the Atrato, with a heavy growth of timber, overflowed during the rainy
season and after every heavy rain in the dry. The channel is extremely tortuous. Port Cuti is
but one and three-fourths miles from the point where the Cano Tanela enters the river, bearing S. W.
| W. Much rain fell during the 10th, and the river rose 7 feet between 1 and 5 p. m.
From April 12 to April 15 was consumed in working up the river to the village of Old Tanela,
situated about one and one-half miles, by the civer-course, below the forks. The character of the
river changed rapidly above Port Cuti, the banks being much higher, with no appearance of being
overflowed at any season. Eapids commenced to be encountered on the 12th, and early in the fore¬
noon of the 13th the dinghy had to be left behind, while the champas were moved forward only
with the greatest difficulty. The mountain-spurs became very frequent, sometimes beginning not more
than 25 feet from the river-banks. The depth of the water varied from 1 foot to 12 and 15 feet, with
gravel and rocky bottom. On the 14th one of the champas upset in a rapid, and nearly everything
it contained was lost, being swept down the stream with too great velocity to be overtaken. Two
carbines, all the ammunition for the shot-gun, about one day's provisions, and the mosquito-bars
and clothing of several of the men were among the articles lost. Over thirty-seven rapids were
passed betwreen Port Cuti and Old Tanela, and so tortuous is the course of the river that over
twenty miles were traveled in making good a distance of ten miles. The general bearing was N. W.
by W. £ W.
Here, for the first time, the Indians were encountered. A deputation headed by the principal
chief, Suza-le-Lele, came forward and demanded of Mr. Schulze his reason for coming into their
country and disturbing their people. Mr. Schulze explained to the chief the object of the expedi¬
tion, and promised not to molest or disturb the people or any of their possessions in any manner if
they would permit him to pass through their country far enough to accomplish his mission. This
permission Suza-le-Lele positively declined to grant, saying that the party had now come much
farther into his country than white men had ever been permitted to do before, and peremptorily ordered
them to go back, which Mr. Schulze of course declined to do. Suza then asked Mr. Schulze if he
was chief of all the Americans, to which the latter, supposing him to mean all in the immediate
vicinity, answered "No," and mentioned the name of the senior officer. "But," said Suza, "is he
chief of all the Americans!" "Oh, no," answered Mr. Schulze, "Grant is chief all the Americans.'7
Whereupon Suza, drawing himself up~with a most majestic air, askëd why Grant had not come
himself to see him, as he was chief of all the Indians there, and turned away declining to hold any
farther intercourse with any less chief than the highest. Mr. Schulze then said to him, "Oh, if
that is all, I am as big a chief as you are myself; I have at least eighty warriors." On this being
interpreted to him Suza changed his mind and continued to converse with Mr. Schulze, but would
not speak to any of the other officers or men. Being asked why he objected to the party's merely
traveling through his country, he answered that it was in accordance with a law which had been
handed down by their fathers from one generation to another. He was reminded that the present
DABI EN SHIP CANAL.
113
party was quite small, and that it would be much better to permit them to pass on than to make
them return and come with a much larger number, who would then go whether he consented or not.
The presents which had been brought were also offered to him, but he would neither accept them nor
permit any of his followers to do so, nor would he yield to any arguments. Finding that he was
not gaining his point, Mr. Schulze concluded that it was now time to call upon Captain Guerrero,
the Colombian commissioner, who professed to have great influence with the Indians, to use his per¬
suasive powers. Captain Guerrero advanced and attempted to speak to the chief, who, before
listening to him, asked if he was a chief, to which the captain replied in the affirmative. u O,
no," said Suza, " you are no chief ; we saw you cooking 5 chiefs don't cook." This was quite true, as
the gentleman, not satisfied with the skill of the regular cook, had frequently prepared his own
meals, and had thus destroyed the only chance he might have had of being of use to the expedition,
as Suza would not listen to another word from him. Mr. Schulze continued his negotiations off
and on for nearly the whole day, demanding permission to go for three days only into the hills,
believing that he could accomplish his work in that time, and not having provisions sufficient to
remain longer, and regarding it as impracticable to get more supplies from below. Toward night
a tacit consent was gained from Suza-le-Lele, who promised to order all the sub-chiefs to pray to
the Great Spirit for three days that the lions and tigers should not be permitted to injure the party,
and also promised to be responsible that Mr. Kunhardt and the persons left with him should not
be molested for that time. Mr. Kunhardt was to remain with the standard barometer in the village
at bench-mark No. 1, while Mr. Schulze carried the .other on. Half the presents which had been
brought and $10 wrere then offered to thé chief if he would send a messenger down to Mr. Hawley
with a letter, but this he persistently declined doing.
On the following morning, April 17, leaving the champas and three men with Mr. Kunhardt,
Captain Guerrero also remaining with him, Lieutenant Commander Schulze, with Don Bafael and
the rest of the party, started up the river. Just before leaving the [village Mr. Schulze offered
his hand to Suza-le-Lele, who refused to take it, and placing one fore-finger on the middle of the
other he said, u All white men lie ; I believe just so much of what you say ,• if you come back in
three days I will take your hand."
A distance of one mile, on a general course of west one-half north, brought the explorers to
the forks, having passed three rapids and one waterfall. Taking the south branch, the one indi¬
cated by M. Du Puydt, a further distance of three miles was made, on a course south-southwest,
and camp No. 10,*bench-mark No. 2, was established in some deserted Indian huts. The barometer
was hung up, and after it had been exposed for a half hour several observations were taken. kThese
were repeated on the following morning. The elevation of bench-mark No. 2 was 244 feet above
mean tide in the Gulf of Darien.
April 18.—The course was continued up the river, now rapidly becoming a mountain stream,
running over a bed of gravel, which above bench-mark No. 2 changed to rock and gravel, with a
constant succession of rapids and water-falls, the channel gradually narrowing and the mountain
spurs reaching to the banks on either side. The distance made good during the day was four and
one-quarter miles. Course southwest three-fôurths south. A new bench-mark, No. 3, was estab¬
lished at camp No. 11, and the barometric observations taken as on the previous night; height
above mean tide 523 feet.
On the 19th a further advance of three miles was made, making good a distance of one and
one-half miles, on a west one-half north course. The river had now become a small mountain torrent,
not more than six feet wide and running through a narrow gorge in the hills, which on either side
wrere estimated to be 250 feet higher than the bed of the stream. Immediately ahead were two
rapids and a waterfall in sight ; while the mountains could be plainly seen for about four or five
miles farther, rising at least 500 feet more. Mr. Schulze concluded that the object of his reconnais¬
sance had been accomplished ; he therefore halted, established his bench-mark No. 4, and after ex¬
posing the barometer a sufficient time took his observations at intervals, until he had several sets.
The height proved to be 682 feet. These heights are given as afterwards computed, but so little
change is there in that region in the barometric readings on account of weather, that the height
can be estimated'pretty closely, even with the readings of but one barometer. Finishing his
H. Mis. 113- 15
114
DAKIEN SHIP-CANAL.
observations Mr. Sehulze started on his return, taking cheek observations at each of his stations,
reaching camp No. 10 that night, and on the following afternoon arriving at Old Tanela, according
to his promise, after an absence of three days. Suza-le-Lele met him in the most cordial manner,
volunteering to shake hands with him, saying, indicating the whole of his fore-ûnger, that he now
believed that much of what he, Mr. Schulze, said, and offered to send messengers with letters to
Mr. Hawley, which he did, giving them orders to travel all night with a note intrusted to them by
Mr. Schulze.
Mr. Kunhardt had been very hospitably treated in the mean time, and Suza consented to let
him remain one day longer with the standard barometer.
On the following day, leaving one champa with Mr. Kunhardt, having previously arranged
with him how to follow on, and at what points to stop, Mr. Schulze and the rest of the party started
down the river, picking up the dinghy when they came to it, and reaching Port Cuti in the after¬
noon. Here, according to arrangement, they stopped for the night, establishing a barometric
station, bench mark A, and observing the barometer night and morning with the same care as
before. During the evening the two messengers who had gone to Mr. Hawley returned, bringing
a letter from that officer.
On the 21st, Mr. Schulze proceeded on his return, arriving at camp 2 in the afternoon, and
there established another barometric station, bench-mark B, Mr. Kunhardt moving down to
Port Cuti, and occupying bench-mark A at the same time according to previous arrangement.
Having remained long enough at camp 2 to get satisfactory observations and to insure having
corresponding ones with Mr. Kunhardt, Mr.* Schulze went on/ reaching the Guard that same
evening, officers and men shoeless and tired out with their trip, which had been an exceedingly
laborious one throughout. On the following morning, April 21, the barometer was sent on shore
to the tide-gauge, at Trefoil Point, (Muertos Island.) where observations were taken to correspond
with those made by Mr. Kunhardt, now advanced to camp 2. Finally, on-the 22d, Mr. Kunhardt
reached the ship, when the standard barometer was sent to the tide-gauge, and compared with the
other, as had also been done before the party started from the ship. By reference to the sheet
upon which this'work is plotted, it will be seen that the two barometers were never more than
twelve miles^apart when observations were taken ; it is therefore believed that the heights obtained
by them can be relied upon as very close approximations to the truth. The mean of several obser¬
vations was used in'each case, and in no instance did the extremes differ more than 10 feet. By
the results of this reconnaissance as above shown, Mr. Du Puydt's proposed canal route proved to
be entirely impracticable. Mr. Schulze, on being questioned by Suza-le-Lele, gave that to be his
opinion, and was begged by the latter to inform the chiefs of all the nations of the world of the
fact, soAhat'no^more expeditions might be sent to his country.
On theMay following Mr. Sehulze's return to the Guard, the Nipsic sailed for Key West, by
way of Aspinwall, carrying letters to yourself, reporting the progress of our division up to date.
Captain Guerrero, the Columbian commissioner, took this opportunity to go to Aspinwall,
MOVEMENTS OF THE PEBANCHITA PABTY.
We have already followed the movements of the Peranchita party up to March 31. April 1
and 2 were "spent by Messrs. Barnes and Beach in searching for the lost divide, which they suc¬
ceeded in finding/reconnoitering ahead for some distance to make sure of it.
April 3 the line/was again started at bench-mark No. 33, and advanced 2,256 feet, with rapid
descent in the^elevation, making slow work on account of the short courses. Bench-mark No. 42,
at the end of the day Vwork, 917 feet above bench-mark No. 1, a drop of 177 feet during the day.
On the 4th, Mr. Beach advanced 1,528 feet on the divide, which was lost once during the day,
but was fortunately^discovered again after running about 400 feet on a spdr heading into the
valley of the Cue. j ^The line led^over a constant succession of small hills. Part of the provisions
were moved for ward,^and camp No. 10 established near the end of the line, bench-mark No. 44,
864 feet above bench-mark No. 1, a farther descent of 55 feet.
During the 5th, 6th, 7th and 8th, the line was continued along the ridge, frequently running
off into spurs, but generally the mistakes were found before going a very great distance. On the
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
115
8th a point was reached, bench-mark No. 51, 771 feet above bench-mark No. 1, the lowest point yet
found on the divide. ,
April 9, a messenger was sent down the Pacific slope to seek Mr. Eaton's party. Messrs. Couden
and Barnes were both taken down with fever. On the following day Mr. Eaton visited the camp
with the messenger who had been sent to him, and during the day his party connected their line
with Mr. Couden's near bench-mark No. 50. Mr. Beach advancing on the ridge, found it slowly
ascending. It was now concluded by Mr. Barnes that the lowest point of the divide had been
reached, which connected at once with the valleys of the Peranchita and the Cuë. On the 11th,
Mr. Eaton started for the mouth of the Paya, and Mr. Beach, commencing at bench-mark No. 50,
started to run his line down the valley, hoping to connect with the line below. Mr. Barnes and
Mr. Couden too unwell to leave camp, Mr. Beach made 1,690 feet, descending very rapidly. Bench¬
mark No. 53, at the end of the day's work, 564 feet above bench-mark No. 1.
April 12.—Messrs. Couden and Barnes still quite unwell. James Sogue (seaman) became sick
from fever. Mr. Beach advanced 3,437 feet, passing several cascades and water-falls. Bench¬
mark No. 54,409 feet above bench-mark No. 1.
On the 13th Midshipman Salter was attacked with the fever. Mr. Beach, now the only officer
well enough to work, employed the day in reconnoitering, in order to find the lowest ground, and
the most favorable point for connecting with the old line. The main body of the party moved down
to camp 7, where a portion of the last provisions received had been stored, and where Mr. Beach
joined them at night. Mr. Salter was too sick to be moved, and remained at camp 10 with one man.
On the 14th Mr. Beach with his rodman and macheteros, taking three days' provisions, started back
to his last bench-mark, and continued his line a distance of 1,926 feet. Bench-mark No. 55, 357 feet
above bench-mark No. 1.
April 15.—José Maria arrived at camp 7, reporting that his champa was at Camp Supply, on the
Cacarica, with provisions. Mr. Beach, during that and the next three days, continued his line, en¬
camping each night at the most convenient spot he coûld find, and on the 18th connected his work
with the old line at bench-mark No. 20 ; the levels differing by less than two-tenths of a foot,
although the line had in the mean time run over a very rough country. This not only proved the
reliability of the gradienter as aleveling-instrument, but also showed the great care and skill with
which it had been used by Mr. Beach. On the 16th Mr. Salter succeeded in reaching camp 7,
though still very weak. On the 17th Mr. Barnes and James Sogue started for Camp Supply to
return to the ship in the champa, the macheteros going at the same time for a portion of the pro¬
visions which had been brought up by José Maria.
A great deal of rain had now commenced to fall each day, the rivers rising rapidly after each
shower, and generally falling almost as rapidly.
On the 20th the whole party, having finished their work, started for Camp Supply, which they
reached that evening, after a most exhausting walk of eight miles, being obliged to carry their
instruments, tools, clothing, camp-equipage, &e., on their backs, and several of the party being
very weak from illness. The country between the two rivers, the Peranchita and Cacarica, was
exceedingly rough, the road for a part of the distance leading over a low flat, but for the remainder
over a succession of steep hills and intervening valleys. At Camp Supply they waited for the Ca¬
carica and champa, which José Maria on his last trip had been directed to bring up, and which
did not arrive until the 23d, when José reached the camp with his champa and informed Mr. Cou¬
den that the flat-boat was in the river a short distance below, unable to come up higher. On the
following morning, the 24th, the party set out at an early hour, and by hard labor reached the Lorn a
that same evening, where the steam-launch was found waiting them, and in which, with the flat-
boat and champa in tow, tbey proceeded down the Atrato, arriving on board the Guard in the
afternoon of the 25th, after an absence of seventy-nine days. Mr. Barnes and Sogue reached the
ship six days earlier.
The letter which had been left by the senior officer for Mr. Barnes, directing him to examine the
country between the Loma and the initial point of Mr. Couden's line, did not reach that officer until
his arrival at the Loma, on his return to the ship, and in fact had he received it earlier he was too un well
to attend to the duty. As the senior officer was still absent when the Peranchita party returned,
Mr. Schulze, in furtherance of what he believed to be the wishes of the former, concluded to send
116
DAB1EN SHIP-CANAL.
Mr. Beacli to make tlie examination which it had been intended Mr. Barnes should do. A small
party was at once organized consisting of seven men, with Master J. T. Sullivan in military charge,
and set out in the steam-launch on the 27th of April, for the Loma, having the provision-champa and
the Oacarica in tow. Arriving the following day, they left the launch and proceeded on in the champa
and flat-boat, taking the route by the Arayo, intending to follow the Perancha, as Mr. Beach and Mr.
Barnes had both seen the Oacarica Biver route on their recent return to the ship, and had pro¬
nounced it impracticable. After two days of hard labor in attempting to pass the Arayo, they were
finally brought to a stand, the river having become completely blocked up with floating islands,
brought down by the recent freshets above, and which, while obstructing their passage, offered no
foot-hold. They were now several miles from the Loma and as yet had not found a single spot
where the instrument could be set up. Mr. Beach, therefore, concluded that any further investi¬
gation was unnecessary, and it was decided to return to the Guard, which they did, arriving on
board on the afternoon of April 30.
EXPEDITION TO THE BOJAYA, ETC.
As has been already stated, the senior officer, with Mr. Merrill, the gig and its crew, started
up the Atrato, on the 16th of April, in the steamer Bolivar, for the Yigia del Euerte, which place
they reached on the evening of the 19th and were hospitably received by Don Carlos Lemos, the
only white man who resided there, and who placed his one spare room at the service of the two
officers. Quarters were found for the men in an adjacent cabin. Mr. Merrill at once commenced
his astronomical observations, using the sextant and artificial horizon, and continued them while
they remained there.
Mayoral, the guide who had been spoken of by the Senores Lozano, in their letters, was absent,
but was immediately sent for and arrived on the following evening. In the mean time several
persons, who were acquainted with the Bojaya and its tributaries, were questioned by the senior
officer in regard to it, and all united in saying that the distance required to be traveled by canoe
was not less than thirty leagues, instead of eight, that part of the distance could be made in large
canoes, but that the remainder would require the small dug-outs, known there as potras ; and
farther, that after reaching the head of potra navigation, it would still require from nine to ten
hours' travel by land to reach Nabuga Bay. The elevation of the highest ground, some of them
thought, was lower than that by the Napipi, but all agreed that the distance across the highest
portion was considerably greater than at the latter place, as there there was but one ridge while
here there was a succession of hills to be crossed. In the evening Mayoral arrived, and ap¬
peared to be a quite intelligent negro. He soon showed by his conversation that he was anxious
to guide the party across the country, and therefore tried to suit his answers to what he supposed
was desired. After considerable cross-questioning, however, his statement was reduced down to a
very close agreement with those made by* the others 5 finally, a brilliant idea, as he seemed to think,
having struck him, he informed the officers that if they merely wished to examine the dividing
ridge between the head of potra navigation and Nabuga Bay they could very materially shorten
the distance and time by going down to the Napipi, passing up that stream and crossing over to
Limon Bay by the route that had been recently surveyed by the American engineers from that
side, [referring to your party,] thence passing down to Nabuga Bay, and making the examination
from there, after which the party could return to the Atrato by the same route. This idea had
been previously advanced by Don Carlos, though Mayoral was not aware of it, and was now agreed
to by all the others present. The statement in regard to the distance and the long stretch of high
ground had already convinced the senior officer that the route was not worth examining, and this
fully confirmed him in that opinion, not, however, until each of the persons who claimed knowledge
on the subject had been questioned, as to the relative distances by water and afterward by land,
or rather the relative amount of time it would take to go over them, viz : by the Bojaya and by
the Napipi, the substance of their answers being that it would require about twice as much time
to reach the head of potra or canoe navigation by the Bojaya as by the Napipi, and from there
across would require from nine to ten hours in the former case and but five hours in the latter.
On the 20th, Mr. Merrill having finished his observations, the party left the Yigia for the
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
117
month of the Napipi, arriving at the latter place before nightfall, having made a running traverse
of the river in the following manner : At the beginning of each course the compass bearing of
some convenient point ahead was taken, and the gig steered for it; pulling an easy, regular stroke,
taking care to keep as much as possible in the channel, a cast of the lead was got once a minute,
and the.number of minutes required to reach the point steered for was recorded, allowance being
made for any change in the speed, from crossing the current or other causes. A sketch of the
river was made at the same time, showing its curves and the topography of its banks. The trav¬
erse thus made, and which was continued down to the mouth of the Cacarica, was afterward
plotted on an arbitrary scale, by using the number of minutes on each course as representing so
many units of distance. The latitudes and longitudes of the extreme and intermediate points
were plotted on a skeleton sheet on a scale of jôôVôo? an(^ ^e traverse was reduced to that scale.
The relative bearings of the different points by traverse and by their position agreed remarkably
well, and the relative scales were found to approximate very closely, not only for different portions
of the traverse, but for the individual courses.
Arrived at the mouth of the Napipi, the party stopped at the house of a fisherman named
José del Pino, where they were detained for three days, a constant succession of rains, with inter¬
mediate cloudy weather, preventing Mr. Merrill from completing his observations until the morning
of the 24th, when they started again, and during that and the next three days carried the traverse,
in the manner above described, to the mouth of the Cacarica, landing to cook meals, and passing
the nights in the gig at anchor in the middle of the river to avoid the mosquitoes, which were
quite as " valiente" as was agreeable. Mr. Merrill took observations for longitude at the mouth of
the river Opogado, and the traverse reached a point half-way between that and the Yigia de
Cubrador that night. On the 25th, it was continued to about midway between Yigia de Cubrador
and the Rio Sueio; on the 26th, to about twenty miles below Rio Sucio ; and at 12.30 p. m. on the
27th, it was connected with the first station of Mr. DuvalPs survey at the mouth of the Cacarica.
A small lake which was discovered on the way down, and which communicates with the Atrato by
a short caiio, was named Lake Lopez, in honor of the commander of the Bolivar, who had done all
in his power to facilitate the movements and add to the comfort of the party.
The banks of the river were from four to six feet out of the water, and the trees showed that
at the highest stage they were submerged by at least two feet. The least depth found in the
channel of the river was 28 feet, increasing to over fifteen fathoms in places, more particularly in
the short bends. The average velocity of the current was about three knots ; the recent rains
having caused a freshet, made it impossible to measure the current exactly. The character of the
river is very much like that of the Mississippi below New Orleans. All the obstructions which
were seen could be cleared away in a single day by a steam-tug. Any person who made the trip
once could learn the channel perfectly, as it always follows the long sides of the bends, and is
deflected across the river by every point that makes out, being coincident with the strength of the
current. The bottom is a sort of clayey mud and would afford good holding-ground. For vessels
of ordinary draught of water, there would be no difficulty in running at night.
There are several small villages and a number of single huts between the Yigia de Cubrador
and the Yigia del Fuerte, mostly occupied by fishermen and rubber-hunters. The total population
between those points is probably not far from three thousand, of both sexes and all ages, and con¬
sists almost exclusively of negroes and mulattoes. They appeared to be hardy and strong,
accustomed to labor, and probably the whole male portion, or very nearly the whole, could be hired
as laborers, in case a canal should be built in the vicinity ; indeed, the most of those who were con¬
versed with were quite anxious to engage their services at once. But very few Indians were
seen, but it was understood that they were quite numerous in the vicinity and much more given
to work than those of the coast. It is highly probable that considerable numbers of them could
also be hired as laborers.
After connecting the traverse with the previous surveys, as above stated, the gig continued
on down the Atrato, arriving on board the Guard at 11.30 p. m. of the same evening, having with
the aid of the current pulled seventy miles since morning.
Having now, as we supposed, finished the work which you had assigned to our division of the
expedition, we made preparations to sail for the Gulf of Darien on the 10th of May, expecting to
118
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
\
meet you at Aspinwall about the 15th. The macheteros wëre all discharged, sails bent, &c., and
the order was given to hoist in the steam-launch and the other boats, when, on the 5th of May, one
of our stewards, going to the village of Turbo, received, from an India-rubber hunter who had just
come in, a letter from Mr. Eaton, dated on the Tuyra Eiver April 12th, addressed to Mr. Oouden,
and communicating to the latter your order to continue his survey along the divide to the eastward
for ten miles, or until he reached the point where you had crossed in your original reconnaissance.
On this letter being shown to the senior officer the order to hoist in the steam-launch was at once
countermanded, and immediate steps taken to re-organize Mr. Couden's party. Three of the
macheteros were still at the machetero camp on Muertos Island, and were re-engaged, as were José
and his companero and their champa. The macheteros were to act as provision-carriers, as we had
found that more dependence could be placed in the seamen as choppers, they having more intelli¬
gence, but the natives far excelled them in carrying heavy loads. In order to require as little pro¬
visions and other supplies as possible, the party was made as small as was consistent with effec¬
tiveness, and consisted of Mr. Oouden in charge, Mr. Beach, Mr. Salter, and six seamen, with the pro¬
vision-carriers above mentioned. The provisions supplied them consisted of salt pork, beans, rice,
tomato soup, coffee, sugar, and hard bread, the bacon and soup and bouilli having both given out.
On the morning of the 7th of May the expedition set out in the steam-launch, with the Cacar-
ica and champa in tow, and arrived at the Loma the same night. On the following morning they
transferred their instruments, provisions, &c., to the flat-boat and the champa and proceeded up
the Cacarica. A large portion of the tapon had floated away, and the water had risen so much
that they had no difficulty in getting past what remained. A strong current now opposed their
progress, and night found them still at a considerable distance from Camp Supply, which they did
not reach until after noon of the 9th. At Camp Supply suitable huts were prepared for storing
X>rovisions, and on the morning of the 10th, leaving seaman James Hall in charge of the camp, the
remainder of the party shouldered their instruments and other effects and started across the trail
to the Peranchita. A heavy rain had fallen during the previous night, which had left the low
ground soggy and wet and the hills very slippery, adding no little to the difficulty of getting over
the route, heavily loaded as they were. Gamp Ko. 7, on the Peranchita, was reached by night, at
least by a portion of the number, for just before they arrived a sudden rise in the river separated
them into two parties, who were not able to rejoin each other till the following morning.
May 11, the river having fallen, they started again, and late in the afternoon reached camp Ko.
10, on the divide, very much fatigued. On setting up the gradienter to adjust it, Mr. Beach dis¬
covered that the level-bulb was broken. It had been cracked during the previous survey, but had
been sealed with gum from an India-rubber tree, and answered perfectly well, but some slight jar
had now opened the crack and allowed the spirits to escape. There having being no spare bulb
supplied for the gradienter, Mr. Beach had carried with him one belonging to the railroad transit,
which he hoped would fit in case of need 5 on trying it now, however, he found it considerably too
long. As without the level his work would be of no value whatever, and as he supposed that the
gradienter could not be repaired, Mr. Oouden resolved to return to the Guard, which he did after
allowing his men one day to rest, and after dispatching one of the most intelligent of the mache¬
teros to Pinogana with a letter to yourself, informing you of the facts above stated.
Starting on their return on the morning of May 13 the party reached the Loma by the evening
of the 15th, where they met the steam-launch, which had come up with more supplies for them,
and in which on the following day they proceeded down the Atrat arriving on board the Guard at
about noon.
In less than two hours after the gradienter was brought on board the ship, Assistant Engineer
J. W. Hollihan, of the Guard, had succeeded in cutting the spare level-bulb of the transit and
fitting it to the gradienter.
Mr. Couden and Mr. Salter not being well enough to return to the field, Mr. Sullivan and
Midshipman J. J. Hunker took their places, and with Mr. Beach at once organized a new party.
Lieutenant-Commander Schulze went to Turbo and with some trouble succeeded in procuring two
more natives to re-enforce the provision party.
By 2 p. m. of May 17 Mr. Sullivan was under way in the steam-launch, with his flat-boat and
champa in tow. The current of the Atrato was unusually strong, owing to the general rise in all
DABIEN SHLP-CANAL.
119
the rivers above, in consequence of which the launch did not reach the Loina until the following
afternoon.
May 19 and 20 were consumed in reaching Camp Supply, a great deal of rain falling and the
current of the Cacarica very strong. During the night of the 20th the river rose eight feet, and
the provisions, &e., which had been landed at the huts previously built had to be put into the flat-
boat for safety.
On Monday, the 22d, the party started across the trail to the Peranchita. One of the newly
hired natives was given to José Maria to assist him in the champa, and Manuel Maria, the regular
companero, was placed in charge of the provision-carriers, he being a powerful man with a good
deal of influence over the others and not afraid of hard work. José had been sent back to the
Loma for more supplies, which were to be there on the 20th. Seaman James ITall was again left
in charge of Camp Supply.
The trail had now become very much worse than when last crossed by our people ; the low
ground was entirely overflowed and in some places the water was waist-deep. The hilly portion
of the distance was even worse, the hill-sides being exceedingly slippery, while each valley had
become the bed of a stream, more or less deep, with a swift current. Camp USTo, 6 was reached late
in the afternoon, where the party encamped for the night very much worn out by their day's march.
On the following morning, May 23, still quite sore and stiff from the previous day's work, they
again started, following up the bed of the Peranchita, which was comparatively low, owing to there
having been no rain during the previous night, but whose current, notwithstanding, was very
difficult to breast, with the heavy load that each officer and man was obliged to carry. There was
no connected trail cut except the line of Mr. Couden's survey, and that followed and crossed the
stream constantly. A very fatiguing march brought them to the base of the divide near the great
falls, early in the afternoon. Here the trail led up an exceedingly steep hill about 500 feet high, the
same that had given Mr. Couden's men so much trouble when attempting to move from camp No. 8
to camp No. 9, on the 13th of March, and whose sides had now become so slippery that it was only
by seizing hold of the trees and bushes and dragging themselves up that the party were able to
climb it at all. They finally succeeded in getting over this hill, after which the ascent became rather
more gradual and, though stopping frequently to rest, they reached camp No. 10, on the divide, at
5 p. m. completely exhausted. A heavy rain set in shortly afterwards, and during the night a large
tree fell, quite near the camp, with a terrible crash and noise, startling the sleeping occupants, who
for a moment feared that their huts would be crushed under its weight.
On the morning of the 24th the macheteros (as they were still called) were sent back to Camp
Supply for more provisions, as they had brought but very little. Messrs. Sullivan and Beach set
out to look for a camping ground nearer the end of the line. A great deal of rain fell during the
day and the following night.
On the 25th Mr. Beach started the "line" and advanced about 2,000 feet. Mr. Sullivan was
confined to camp with a slight attack of fever. At about noon José Maria arrived with a bag of
rice and a small quantity of beans; he had reached Camp Supply from the Loma two days before,
bringing two weeks' provisions, which had been sent from the Guard on the 20th, and another sea¬
man to assist Hall, and had been sent forward by the latter with what he could carry, in com¬
pliance with orders left by Mr. Sullivan ; his companero had been taken sick and sent back to the
Guard. José reported that the trail across from the Cacarica to the Peranchita was every day be¬
coming worse, and would probably be utterly impassable very soon, and that some India-rubber
hunters had cut through the obstructions in the Arayo, making the route by that river and the
Perancha navigable for champas. Mr. Sullivan therefore concluded that it would be better to
break up Camp Supply, and form a new camp at the head of navigation on the Peranchita. He
accordingly wrote to the senior officer, informing him of the necessity for a change, what steps he
proposed to take immediately to effect it, and what further action would be required. He also
recommended that yams, plantains, and cocoa-nuts be substituted for pork and tomato-soup in the
rations, as they would not be injured by wet in transportation, and the tomato-soup had ceased to
be relished.
Mr. Sullivan's plan of transferring his depot of supplies was as follows : José Maria, on his
way down, was to carry from Camp Supply to the second Loma a champa-load of provisions, then
120
I)AMEN SIIIP-CANAL.
to proceed down the Atrato with the letter for the senior officer. Manuel, who, with his machete-
ros, was expected in a day or two at camp No. 10, was, on his return, to take the flat-boat Cacarica
and the remainder of the provisions down to the second Loma, there to await the return of José
with his own and a second champa to be substituted for the flat-boat. The provisions were then
to be taken in the champas as far as possible up the Peranchita and a new depot to be established.
On the following morning, the 26th, José started for Camp Supply, with orders to Hall to ao
company him, leaving McComb (Hall's companion) to follow with Manuel.
The rain, which had been falling steadily for several hours, ceased at about 10 a. m., and Mr.
Sullivan struck camp, moving forward to the end of the line, and established " Camp Pacific."
Much more substantial huts had to be built now than earlier in the season, owing to the frequent
and heavy rains.
Monday, the 29th, the rain fell at intervals. Mr. Beach ran 2,100 feet of line, when the divide
was lost. Manuel and his men arrived in camp with a small load of provisions and was sent back
to Camp Supply. Mr. Sullivan and Mr. Beach followed down the spur upon which the line was
running, and soon came to a stream, but could find no trace of the true divide.
The time from May 30 to June 7 was spent in unavailing attempts to find and keep on the di¬
vide. The crest of the Cordillera at this point, instead of showing a sharp ridge, as is most gener¬
ally the case, is spread out with an almost flat surface of considerable width, and is so densely
covered with cactus and underbrush that it was impossible to see ahead or even walk without
cutting a trail for every foot of distance made; the work of exploring was, therefore, not only very
laborious, but the officers were without anything to guide them. Twice their explorations brought
them out on to Mr. Eaton's line ; several times they found themselves in the valley of the Peran¬
chita, their course being suddenly checked by streams crossing their line. Only a small part of
each day was clear, a great deal of rain falling, both day and night. In the mean time, the provis¬
ion-carriers, for reasons which will be mentioned farther on, had failed to arrive, and the party,
who had been on short rations from the first, were, by June 5, reduced to rice and coffee, every¬
thing else having been consumed. Several attempts were made to shoot game, but without suc¬
cess. On the 4th John McGrath, seaman, was taken quite ill with fever. Mr. Beach, who had
been in the field almost constantly since the survey commenced, was anything but well.
On the 8th, there being left only rice enough for one day more, Mr. Sullivan resolved to move
the party down the Peranchita, to a camp of India-rubber hunters, who had, some time earlier, ac.
cumulated a quantity of provisions, at a point a little below Oouden's camp No. 8, and from whom
he hoped to get some supplies in case the provision-carriers were delayed much longer. He ac¬
cordingly struck camp early in the morning and started down the trail. At 4 p. m. the party
reached the rubber-hunters' camp, having been at least three times as long in accomplishing the
distance as was usually necessary. Here, much to their joy, they met José Maria with the ma-
cheteros, who had brought a small quantity of provisions, but enough for present wants, and a
good full meal was enjoyed for the first time in several days.
It will here be necessary to go back a few days to show the cause of the delay in getting for¬
ward supplies.
José Maria, who left camp No. 10 on the 26th of May, reached the Guard on the 29th, having on
his way down, according to orders, taken a portion of the provisions to the second Loma. The
senior officer, as soon as he had received Mr. Sullivan's letter, went to Turbo, where he succeeded in
hiring a champa, and, after some trouble, in engaging three more[natives as macheteros. A quan¬
tity of yams, plantains, and cocoa-nuts, were also purchased. The three men promised to be
ready early the next morning, and engaged to serve for $20 per month and subsistence, including
tobacco and soap. The steam-launch was sent for them at the time appointed, and after keeping
her waiting some three hours, two of the three consented to go in her to the Guard on condition
that they should be paid $25 per month ; the third refused-altogether. As these were the only men
to be had, the senior officer was obliged to accept their terms, more particularly as two of those
now in the service had become worthless and broken down. We learned, not altogether without
satisfaction, a couple of days later, that the one who had refused to keep his engagement had been
severely beaten in an encounter with another native. The launch with the two champas was
started off immediately to the Loma de Cacarica, where she arrived on the following morning, the
- D ARIEN SHIP CANAL.
121
31st, liere Manuel and MeComb with their party were met, having brought down the remainder of
the provisions to the second Loma.
The two champas were loaded and proceeded up the Cacarica, crossing into the Arayo, and
thence up the Perancha and Peranchita. The current was now exceedingly strong, and their
progress correspondingly slow. On the 4th of June they had reached a point somewhere near
Couden's camp No. 2, when attempting to turn the larger of the two champas in a short bend she wa^
capsized, and everything she contained was instantly swept away by the force of the stream. By
this accident the major part of the provisions, including all of the yams, plantains, and cocoa-nuts,
was lost, though the champa was soon righted again.
Strenuous efforts were made to get the other champa forward, but without avail, the current
having become too strong to be stemmed, while the country was overflowed to such an extent that
it was impossible to land and carry the remainder of the supplies. The party accordingly turned
around and started down the river again, reaching the Loma on the following day, when José
Maria proceeded up the Cacarica with one champa, and Hall down the Atrato to the Guard in the
other, to report the mishap.
José and the macheteros, on reaching Camp Supply, started across the trail with what they could
carry, and, as has been seen, met Mr. Sullivan at the India-rubber camp on the afternoon of the 8th.
Hall reached the Guard on June 6, and was immediately sent to Turbo with a request to the
Santacruz brothers to procure two more men for us if possible. This they succeeded in doing, and
on the 7th the steam-launch, with two weeks' provisions and with the champa in tow, was again
started to the Loma, Hall with his three men going in her.
Mr. Sullivan and party were confined to camp on the 9th, the river having risen very much
during the night. It had now become evident that it was impracticable to keep up a supply of
provisions on the divide, as the best of the men could scarcely carry more than they themselves
wTould eat on the trip there and back. Mr. Sullivan, therefore, concluded to go on to Camp Supply
and communicate with the senior officer.
On the 10th the Peranchita fell a little, and the party worked their way down to camp No. 6, or
rather the site of it, for the camp had been swept away. Climbing a small élévation they commenced
building some huts for temporary shelter from the rain. While they were at work it was suddenly
observed that the river was rising and that the water had nearly reached their knapsacks and pro¬
visions, which had been left on a gravel-bank by the shore. By making a quick run they managed
to secure their property, but a minute later it would all have been carried away. The mountains
had now become so saturated that the slightest rain showed itself in the rivers, and as the rise was
generally the result of i*hin higher up, it frequently happened that it wrould occur when it was per¬
fectly clear where the party were, so they had no warning until it was upon them. The Peran¬
chita on this occasion rose six feet in less than three-quarters of an hour.
On the 11th the India-rubber hunters passed down the river, having abandoned their camp
above. At Mr. Sullivan's request they took his provisions, instruments, and baggage in a champa
which they had and carried them to the junction of the trail which led across to the Cacarica. Mr.
Beach and McGrath, being unable to travel, took passage in the champa.
The other officers and men being relieved of their loads, partly by wading and partly by
swimming or floating on logs, &c., made their way down to the point where their effects had been sent,
and which they reached late in the afternoon. A camp was built and named u Camp at Last."
June 12, Mr. Beach and McGrath started for the Loma with the India-rubber hunters. Mr.
Sullivan concluded that he had better go to the Guard, as he could reach there as soon as a letter
could, and could explain matters to the senior officer much more satisfactorily verbally than by
letter. Accordingly, leaving Midshipman Hunker in charge of the camp, he pushed across the
trail (which he found in a terrible condition) to Camp Supply, and from thence in the champa pro¬
ceeded down the Cacarica to the Loma, where he picked up Mr. Beach and McGrath, and then
went on down the Atrato, arriving on board the Guard on the 14th.
On receiving Mr. Sullivan's report the senior officer very reluctantly concluded that it was im¬
possible to accomplish anything farther during the season, and therefore directed the rest of the
party to be sent for, which was done, Mr. Hunker arriving on board on the 19th of June.
H. Mis. 113—-10
122
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
The hydrographie work in the Gulf of Darien had in the mean time been all accomplished, as
will be mentioned under the appropriate head. Preparations for sailing were at once made, and
on the following day, June 20, the Guard got under way for Aspinwall, which place she reached on
the morning of the 25th. Finding that you were in Panama the senior officer immediately proceeded
to that place, reporting to you on the same day.
PLOTTING THE WORK, ETC.
The field-books of the various parties being occasionally sent in, sectional sheets were made
by Mr. Pohlers, the topographic draughtsman, showing topography, elevation, distances, &c., with
general profiles. The sectional sheet of the Tanela reconnaissance was made by Midshipman Kun-
hardt.
Master Elliott acted as hydrographie draughtsman, and plotted all the harbor-work as well as
that of the rivers.
Finally, a general sheet on a scale of jô-ooôô, was ma(le by Mr. Pohlers, including all the work,
topographic and hydrographie, done by this division, and also including your first reconnaissance.
These sheets have all been forwarded, as also the estimates of work, cost, &c., of a canal from the
mouth of the Cacarica to the divide.
HEALTH.
Notwithstanding the constant exposure to which both officers and men were necessarily sub¬
jected, we had the smallest percentage of sick that I have ever seen in a ship's company. But
one death occurred, and that was from pneumonia, contracted before reaching the gulf. The prin¬
cipal diseases from climatic causes were intermittent fever and exzema ) there were no serious
cases of the former, and the latter, though very annoying, is not a dangerous disorder. Most of
the officers and men. suffered more or less from the effects of frequent wettings, being often obliged
to plunge into the cold streams when very much heated, and at other times to work in the water
for hours at a time. I .attribute the healthfulness of the locality to the fact that the whole country
between the shores of the gulf and the base of the mountain ranges is constantly covered with
flowing water. The banks of the rivers sometimes show a strip of dry ground from a few feet to
three or four rods wide, but seldom more.
* <*
Each of the parties in the field was supplied with such medicines as they were likely to need,
and the officers were instructed in their use by Assistant Surgeon Eckstein, of the Guard.
EVAPORATION.
Experiments at Muertos Island, continued during the greater part of the dry season, showed
an evaporation of one inch in five days. As the test was made with a very small body of water,
(in a wooden tank made for the purpose,) it is believed to represent the maximum evaporation,
HYDROGRAPHIC WORK.
The survey of the Gulf of Darien was commenced December 29, 1870, immediately after the
arrival of the expedition.
A sandy beach on the eastern shore, near the village of Turbo, was selected as the location of
a base-line, being the most eligible spot for the purpose, though anything but a favorable one. A
broken base of two legs, each 1,800 feet, was measured, using an ordinary surveyor's chain.
A few signals were then erected on the shores of that portion of the gulf immediately south
of Muertos Island, and which had been named by yourself " Columbia Harbor." As there was no
dry land on the western shore, the signals were erected on logs and trees, and on stakes driven
into the mud. As soon as a sufficient number were up, the base-line was occupied by the theodolite
to establish them, so that the work of running the soundings might be commenced. As the gulf
is some five miles wide at this point, the base-line was found to be too short to give favorable tri¬
angles, accordingly a new base was cleared and measured, giving one leg of 2,600 feet, and the
other 2,900. This gave better conditions, though still not so good as could have been desired.
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
123
As soon as the signals already built had been fixed, Mr. Hawley commenced the hydrography,
using one of the Guard's cutters. The shore-line was also run in, to keep pace with the triangu¬
lation. As there was no place to set up a plane-table, the following method was adopted for
accomplishing the last-named operation : Paper being stretched on a drawing-board, the triangu¬
lation points were plotted upon it, and the sheet taken by the observer, who with sextants, protrac¬
tor, dividers, scale-of-feet, &c., established himself in the dinghy at one of the triangulation points
marked on the paper; the gig, at whose mast-head a vane was fixed 21 feet above the rail, was
then sent to a point of the shore, at a convenient distance from the dinghy, her broadside presented
to the observer, and the boat carefully trimmed, so that the mast should be exactly upright. The
horizontal angle between the gig and some other of the signals already plotted was then measured
by the sextant, and the line of bearing thus obtained was laid down with the protractors upon the
sheet, and finally the distance of the gig was obtained by measuring the angle subtended by her
mast; (a table of distances corresponding to different angles being carried by the observer;) this
distance was then taken from the scale and laid down on the line of bearing. Thus a new point
was fixed upon the paper, and the shore-line between the two was sketched in by the eye. The
. dinghy was pulled to the place just occupied by the gig, and the latter was sent to the next con¬
venient point, when the operation was repeated. For the sake of accuracy, short distances were
taken, not often exceeding 1,300 feet, and generally much less.
Upon a small island about a half mile north of Muertos Island was established the astronom¬
ical observatory in latitude 8° 8' 27//.43 north, and longitude 76° 47' 43."5 west, and to this the
triangulation was referred.
A theodolite was used in the triangulation as long as any setting could be found for it, but
this, unfortunately, was not far, and the remainder of the work had to be done with a sextant*
The atmosphere was very smoky during the continuance of the trade-winds and grew worse as the
season advanced, making it'exceedingly difficult to see distant objects. It afterwards proved that
the most favorable time for this work would have been after the rains commenced in the spring.
As Mr. Hawley was carrying on his work at the same time, it was necessary to keep the
triangulations in advance of him, which involved fixing the signals as fast as they could be
erected, and consequently many of the points had to be occupied several times.
A tide-gauge was established at the observatory island and carefully watched night and day
for four lunar months.
The work was steadily continued, interrupted only by the officers being occasionally absent on
other duty, and lasted nearly the whole time of our stay in the gulf. At first the boats returned
to the ship each night, but soon the work became too distant to return without considerable loss
of time, particularly as it was all directly to leeward of the anchorage, and the trade-wind and the
sea made by it were quite difficult to pull against ; the parties, therefore, extended their trips first
to two days, then three, and at last to four and five days at a time, sleeping in the boats, with the
tent awnings spread ,and cooking in boat-stoves, or in sand-boxes. This was not very comfortable,
as there was a full crew in each boat, necessarily, but there was no dry ground to land upon, so
that it was unavoidable.
Ninety-seven signals were established, 85 miles of shore-line laid down, and 330 miles of
soundings run ; 1,350 angles and 14,944 soundings taken. An attempt was made, but without
success, to find the location of the astronomical station used by Michler, in his survey in this region*
After the rains commenced in the spring, the atmosphere cleared up wonderfully, and a great
part of the triangulation was gone over a second time for verification. An error was found which,
slight at first, had accumulated by being carried on until it had become quite serious. Fortunately
the work was of such a character as to check itself constantly, so that it was discovered that an
error existed somewhere, before its exact location became known.
RIVER WORK.
«
By your direction, during the month of January, Mr. Duvall made a survey of the river
Atrato, from the mouth of the Cacarica to the head of the Barbacoas, thence the latter river to
the head of the Cano Coquito, and through the Goquito to the Gulf of Darien.
124
DAEIEN SHtP-CANAL.
Between March 22, and March 31, Master J. P. Merrill, assisted by Midshipman J. H. Bull, and
afterward by Midshipman B. G. Peek, surveyed the Barbacoas from Mr. Duvall's last station to its
mouth ; the Oaho Coco Grande, a branch of the Barbacoas, and the river Urabâ with its branches.
The method used was the same in this as in Mr. DuvalFs river survey, i. e., the observer at
anchor in a boat, at one extremity of each course, took by prismatic compass the bearings of a
second boat, at anchor at the other extremity, and for the distance measured with a sextant the
angle between her rail and a vane at her masthead. A sketch being at the same time made to
show topography, &c.
The Gulf of Darien is fifteen miles long, with a width at the entrance of five miles, spreading
out to nine miles near the lower extremity. There are no shoals or dangers of any sort, except the
mud banks near the western shores, which have been formed by the deposit from the rivers. The
bank, of which Observatory Island forms a part, extends about a quarter of a mile to the eastward
of the island, and would require to be buoyed during the calm weather season, though during the
prevalence of the trade-winds it is distinctly marked by the surf upon it.
About half a mile to the southward of Observatory Island is situated Muertos Island, on
which there is a small space of dry ground, and upon this we built a camp for the macheteros, a
carpenter-shop, &c., and a small wharf for a landing. The tide-gauge was shifted to this point
late in the season.
For about eight miles to the southward of Muertos Island, the shore of the gulf is formed by
a part of the delta of the Atrato, and is indented with numerous bays of shoal-water. Each of
the rivers, by depositing trees, logs, floating islands, &e., at its mouth, has made a long strip of
land on either side of its channel, extending out into the gulf in one case nearly three miles, thus
forming the bays above mentioned.
There is a bar at each of the river mouths, consisting of mud, with a quantity of logs, snags,
&c., distributed over it, but it would be an easy matter to dredge away and afterwards keep clear
any one of them, as the sea does not break directly upon them.
There is a safe achorage in any part of the gulf, outside of the shoal-water just spoken of, in
the bays and at the river mouths. The water varies from ten to fifteen fathoms in depth, with
excellent holding ground of clayey mud.
During the dry season it is always advisable to anchor under the lee of Muertos Island, as
farther out there is sea enough at times to make it quite uncomfortable, though never unsafe. The
anchorage formed by this lee was, as before mentioned, named, by your direction, Columbia Harbor.
TIDAL ESTABLISHMENT, ETC.
The tides and tidal currents are here very much affected by the winds owing to the formation
of the gulf. The trade-winds blowing directly in bank the water up, at times giving a rise of from
ten to fifteen inches more than is due to tide alone. About 18 inches is the mean difference of
high and low water, but to get at the exact difference the observations would have to be continued
into the calm weather or rainy season. The establishment is 12h 20m, but this also is only approxi¬
mate, though it does not j>robably differ more than five minutes from the true.
Observations for tidal currents were taken in various parts of the harbor and plotted on the
chart.
In entering the gulf under sail care should be taken to stand well over towards the eastern
shore until abreast Muertos Island, to avoid the strong currents out of the rivers Barbacoas and
Pava, which make it very difficult to steer when too near their mouths.
INHABITANTS, ETC.
The village of Turbo on the eastern shore contains a population of about three hundred, mostly
hegroes, whose principal employment is India-rubber hunting. The "village is comprised of thatched
huts, mostly built of bamboo.
A large number of the native boats known as bungoes visit Turbo each season, bringing parties
of India-rubber hunters from Carthagena, and carrying on some trade in fruits, dye and furniture
woods, ivory-nuts, &c.
There are several Indian villages in the vicinity but none immediately on the coast.
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
125
ERESH WATER AND SUPPLIES.
Abundance of fresb water of excellent quality is to be bad just inside tbe mouths of all
the rivers. The .water throughout the gulf is almost fresh. Dr. H. C. Eckstein, of the Guard,
found by test that two hundred and sixty grains of water contained one grain of saline matter,
principally chloride of sodium.
Yams, plantains, bananas, turkeys, chickens, and eggs can be obtained in limited quantities.
Cocoa of good quality is brought in by the Indians. There is an abundance of fish, of numerous
- varieties and excellent quality, in the waters of the gulf and the rivers.
SERVICES OF OFFICERS AND MEN.
»
The officers and men performed their arduous duties with the most unremitting zeal and atten¬
tion, and too much cannot be said in their praise, particularly of Lieutenant-Commander G. C.
Schulze, Master A. R. Couden, and Master J. T. Sullivan in charge of topographic parties ; of
Master J. M. Hawley in charge of hydrography ; of Civil Engineer A. D. Beach, and of Midship¬
man T. G. C. Salter, assistant to Mr. Couden ; Master J. P. Merrill in charge of river surveys, and
Midshipmen J. H. Bull, J. J. Hunker, J. C. Kunhardt, and R. G. Peck, as assistants in the different
surveys, and in charge of provision and working parties, also performed excellent service.
The reports of Chief Civil Engineer Barnes on the Peranchita Route, that of Lieutenant-Com¬
mander Schulze on the Tanela Reconnaissance, and the journals of Messrs. Couden and Sullivan
are herewith forwarded.
I am, very respectfullv, your obedient servant,
EDWARD P. LULL,
Commander, and Senior Officer present.
Commander Thomas O. Seleridge, U. S. N.,
Commanding Darien Exploring Expedition.
*
Note.—The following are the details of the officers of the various parties, viz :
topographic parties.
Peranchita surveying party No. 1.—Master A. R. Couden in charge ; Chief Civil Engineer J.
Barnes director of survey ; Civil Engineer A. D. Beach'; Midshipman T. G. C. Salter.
Survey of rivers Perancha, Arayo, &c.—Master J. T. Sullivan in charge ; Midshipman J. H.
Bull.
Reconnaissance of the Tanela.-*Lieutenant-Commander G. C. Schulze in charge ; Midshipman
J. C. Kunhardt.
Leveling down the Atrato.*-Master J. T. Sullivan in charge; Midshipman J. H. Bull.
Astronomical worh in the interior.*-Master J. P. Merrill ; Midshipman R. G. Peck.
Peranchita party No. 2.—Master A. R. Couden in charge; Civil Engineer A. D. Beach, director
of survey ; Midshipman T. G. C. Salter.
Peranchita party No* 3.—Master J. T. Sullivan in charge ; Civil Engineer A. D. Beach, director
of survey; Midshipman J. J. Hunker.
hydrograpiiic work.
Survey of the Gulf of Darien.—Triangulation and shore-line, Commander E. P. Lull.
Hydrography.—Master J. M. Hawley in charge ; Midshipman J. J. Hunker, Midshipman J. C.
Kunhardt, Midshipman T. G. C. Salter ; commander's clerk, C. V. Tucker, recorder.
Survey of rivers Urabd, Barbacoas, dfc.-^Master J. P. Merrill in charge ; Midshipman J. H.
Bull, Midshipman R. G. Peck.
Traverse of the Atrato from the mouth of the Cacarica to the mouth of the Bojaya*-*-Commander
E. P. Lull, Master J. P. Merrill.
Tide-gauge observations.—Three seamen from the Guard*
GEOLOGICAL REPORT
UPON
THE DAR1EN ROUTE AND NERCALAGUA RIVER, BAY OF SAN BLAS,
BY
J. FETIŒRTT CARSON, E. ML, MINERALOGIST OF THE EXPEDITION,
WASHINGTON BIVEB. (Plates XI and XII.)
February 22, 1870.
We ascended this stream for about one mile in boats ; it then becoming very shallow, rendered
it necessary to return. For this distance, it passes through a low, swampy, alluvial deposit,
densely covered with an almost impenetrable jungle. The banks on either side are, where exposed
to the ebb and flow of the tide, covered with thickets of mangrove, chiefly Rhizophoras and Avi-
cennias. To destroy these swamps is impossible. The Avieennias send up innumerable young
shoots wherever the main stem is felled, while the Rhizophoras extend their long aërial, root-like
branches, which soon reaching the ground take root themselves. Even the seed germinates while
yet attached to the tree, and after sprouting several inches drops into the mud below as a young
plant. Effecting a landing some distance below the mouth of the river and cutting through the
thickets, the river was again struck above tide-water, about three-quarters of a mile in a straight
line from its mouth. The ground had been cleared in patches by the Indians, producing bananas,
sugar-cane, pepper, and bread-fruit in great profusion. The trees were the cedro and ivory-nut,
and several other palms ; and as we neared the river we also found a thick belt of reeds and tan¬
gled vines, Ascending the river-bed a quarter of a mile, the banks became higher and more dis¬
tinct. A deposit of rich black loam, three to six feet thick, the result of vegetable decomposition,
rested upon a bed of soft bluish and pasty clay, containing much gravel. Half a mile farther, we
found a bed of highly siliceous, indurated clay, but only exposed for a short distance. The river¬
bed contained pebbles of syenite, trap, greenstone, porphyry, some quartz, and occasionally pieces of
sandstone, highly colored with oxide of iron, some dense and others porous and friable. The river
now began to ascend very rapidly ; the water not flowing ôver the bed, but apparently soaking its
way through the gravel to a lower level. The banks were sometimes fifteen feet high, exposing
a yellow siliceous clay, containing pebbles and cobble-stones, which increased in size as one
ascended. Occasionally were Indian banana plantations, of a few acres each, scattered along at
intervals, where the ground had been easy to clear.
February 23 and 24, 1870. *
Three-quarters of a mile from the shore, while passing over the trail through the low-land, we
found imbedded in the ground several pieces of coral and a few marine shells ; also, in the river¬
bed, two pebbles on which there were marine deposits. Pieces of coral have since been found,
very often at different places, inland, at distances varying from one-half to three-quarters of'a
mile from the sea-shore. Beturning to the river where we left off above, the banks present no
especial change, the pebbles in the bed only becoming larger. Eor half a mile it was perfectly
dry, then we found pools of water, small and at intervals, but gradually becoming larger, and
128
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL
finally ending in an insignificant stream. On the left bank of the river one of these pools had
formed a hole of considerable depth, and here was exposed the first occurrence of rock, so covered
with plants that only a small portion was visible. It consisted of three indistinct layers, under¬
lying the silieious clay. The first was six inches of soft, apparently decomposed granite, mixed
with clay and containing specks of pyrites. Then occurred a layer of about three inches of friable
silieious material, becoming harder and more compact at the bottom. The third layer was the
rock proper ; it consisted of quartz, grains or sand very hard and compact, of a grayish red color,
and portions of a schistose fracture. It is a quartzite, or sandstone, that has been exposed to
peculiar metamorphic action. Dip was, as near as could be determined, about 20° to southeast,
having been thus tilted up by one of the lateral hills that jut out from the main range of moun¬
tains. The lower portion was covered with water and extended indefinitely. We observed this
rock at intervals, where the banks were favorable, for three hundred yards. Then occurred large
bowlders of syenite, which had been rolled down by the floods of the rainy season. We then
found the bed of the stream to run over a mass of syenitie rock, occasionally decomposed, but
generally hard, dense and compact, much resembling the well-known Quiney granite. The grade
of the river was about 25 to 30 feet to the mile, and at the end of a quarter of a mile it became a
mountain torrent. Some of the bowlders were three to four feet in diameter, consisting of syenite
and greenstone, and with sharp, well-defined edges, not as much rounded as might have been
expected. Some pebbles of sandstone—syenite with acicular crystals of hornblende, trap, and
black quartz and pieces of impure jasper were found. Also, a piece of pumice-stone, which was
unfortunately lost in transmission to the ship, a fate shared by many other specimens, as only
those supposed to contain gold excited any interest with the majority of the party.
Having penetrated about two and a half miles in a direct line from the beach, we returned to
the ship. The river was afterward surveyed to its source and found to terminate in a succession
of torrents falling over the syenite, entirely similar to that so often found at other places.
CALEDONIA RIVER TO THE SUCUBDI RIVER,
February 25 to March 3, 1870.
The Caledonia River for the first mile is from three to four feet deep, with a bed of fine mud
nine inches thick, a sand-bar at the mouth preventing it from being entirely washed out to sea,
and the torrents of the rainy season probably scouring it down to its present level. The country
in the immediate vicinity is not so low as at Washington River, and forms the immediate system
of drainage from the range of mountains on the south, that extend laterally ifl a sort of semicircle
from the main range to Point Escoces.; and is the southern boundary of the plain, extending along
the shore of Caledonia Bay, almost a mile in width, up to the range of hills that terminate at
Sassardi Point. A mile from the sea-shore we observed pieces of coral imbedded in the soil similar
to that previously found. The bed of the stream became gravelly and it commenced to rise very
perceptibly, probably 15 feet to the mile. The pebbles were chiefly syenite porphyry, pieces of
feldspar, sometimes crystalline, (orthoclase,) and showing distinctly some of the monoclinic sys¬
tem ; pieces of quarzitic occurred, but very little quartz. Plantations of bananas occurred at inter¬
vals, and the banks were covered with reeds, sedges, and many succulent plants.
At the point marked barometrical station No. 9 on the map the banks are 20 feet high, con¬
sisting of dense, fine-grained, yellow clay. Occasionally we find the banks of the stream to consist
of clay, gravel, and cobble-stone. At barometrical station No. 10 the river passes at the base of
a hill. Here for 300 feet is exposed a layer of silieious induratic clay and sandstone (or quartzite)
about 10 feet thick, having an apparent strike to the southeast and dip of 60° west. Height above
sea by barometer, 39 feet. A short distance beyond this occurred rapids, falling over a series of
trap and syenitie bowlders, the largest about two feet in diameter ; these extended for 50 feet. At
barometrical station No. 12 occurred another outcrop of quartzite, but being covered with water
it could not be particularly observed. The river had now forked ; we following the left, or north¬
ern branch, which skirted along the base of the hills on its left bank. At barometrical station
No. 15 we passed through hills on both sides and again observed an outcrop of sandstone or
quarzite, strike northwest, dip southeast, evidently lying on the flanks of a different range of hills
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
129
from the last, but from the numerous bends in the river and the rapidity with which we were com¬
pelled to advance, it was impossible to determine their exact connection. At barometrical station
No. 17 again occurred rock dipping 15° northwest, but too much covered by water to approach,
except by swimming. After passing over a hill about 200 feet high above the sea, we came to
Camp Raiuy Hollow, situated on a small stream, which, after running in a curve around the base
of the aforementioned hill in a northeast direction, then entered into the Caledonia River. The
height of the camp is, by barometrical measurement, 150 feet above the sea. On the stream
a little below we had time to observe the quartzite carefully and collect several specimens.
It occurs near the camp and shows itself at several places at the base of the hill around which
the stream winds. It is hard and siliceous, with a grayish color. Dip about 60° west at one
place near the camp, though at the other points it appeared to follow the contour of the hill.
Through it ran irregular seams, of a softer character, but of no great depth. Immediately above
are the clay and gravel before met with. They rest upon a bed of siliceous clay, apparently decom¬
posed granite, containing many specks of pyrites of iron and of copper. This clay, both here
and at other points, was most carefully tested by panning, and afterward by the blow-pipe, but
did not show the slightest trace of gold. A qualitative analysis of the rock shows the presence
of sesquioxide of iron, sesquioxide of alumina, silica, lime, much sulphuric acid, and much phos¬
phoric acid. The phosphoric acid is probably from organic remains, and presents a fruitful topic
for most interesting future discussion. Three hundred yards down the stream we found the bed,
for 50 feet, to consist of a seam of hard, bluish, hornblendic trap, striking to southeast, but we
were not able to trace it over the hill, on account of the underbrush. After leaving this stream
we followed the trail over the mountains to the Sucubdi River. The ascent on the Atlantic or
eastern side was very difficult and steep, but the western slope was more gradual. At barometri¬
cal station No. 40 we found a few trap bowlders imbedded in the ground, probably detached from
a dike in the vicinity. Quite near, in a gully, we found some decomposed granite and clay, con¬
taining pyrites. Although favorable for the presence of gold, we detected none by the blow-pipe.
At barometrical station No. 42 we reached the summit of the dividing ridge, 1,003 feet above the
level of the sea. The top was flat for 300 feet; it then began gradually to descend towards the Su¬
cubdi River. One thousand paces from the summit we found an outcrop of decomposed granite.
Fifteen hundred paces more brought us to a little stream running southwest, winding its way
around the steep hills to the river. After passing over several small hills for five hundred paces,
we reached the Sucubdi River, whose height is 573 feet above the sea. On one side the bank was
20 feet high, consisting of siliceous clay, showing the marks of water within three feet from the top.
The current in the river, as near as could be judged from floating sticks and leaves, was two and a
half miles per hour. Average width of stream was 30 feet; average depth about 14 inches; and
temperature 73° F., or 2° lower than the surrounding air. The river-bed was covered with pebbles.
They consisted of porphyry, syenite, trap, pieces of impure jasper, fire-clay, and black quartz;
also, pieces of hornblendic rock, so much oxidized on the exterior as to resemble red brick. Al¬
most all the quartzose pebbles contained a great quantity of iron and copper pyrites, diffused in
thin laminae throughout the mass. The most promising of these specimens yielded no gold by a
fire-assay. Returning to the ship, we had time to note a few of the trees. At barometrical sta¬
tion No. 40 we first noted the tree-ferns Aroideœ, six of them in a clump, on the side of the hill.
They were about 6 to 8 inches in diameter, and about 40 to 50 feet high. Also, in this locality,
we counted, in a space of thirty yards radius, forty-two caoutchouc trees, and as they were no¬
ticed all along the mountain-sides, one may thus form some idea of their abundance. Mahogany,
cabanero, naranjo del monte, and other hard woods; "corteza77 and umanagua,77 which furnish the
natives with rope and cordage, occur. The "macano,77 which supplies a yellow dye, and the tree,
which furnishes a yellow juice called " lacte del maria,'7 used by the natives for wounds, were seen.
At station No. 37, collected several beans, called by the natives " guaquo,77 which grow on a
rough, corrugated vine. The tea is said to be good for fever, but when taken raw it acts as
a powerful emetic. There also occurred many Sterculiaceœ, Mimoseœ, Pwpilionacetëj Myrtaceœ, Mêlas-
tomeœ, Compositœ, and* Orcliidœ; also, as we neared the coast, along the river, many Papilionaceœj
Gentianœ, and Violaceœ. The sensitive plant prevailed in many localities, and the ground was fre¬
quently overspread with many beautiful Gonvolvuli, and other climbing and twining plants.
H. Mis. 113—17
180
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
AGLASENEQUA EIYER TO CAMP 9 ON THE SUCUBDI RIVER.
March 1C to April 5, 1870.
The Aglasenequa River is a small stream about a mile and a half north of the Caledonia River
and about the same distance south of the Washington River. For the first two miles of its course
it passes through a low flat country, entirely similar to the other two, with the exception that the
banks on both sides are more uniform and the soil of the country more dense. One and a half
miles from the beach we find a small piece of sandstone jutting out, entirely covered by water, and
softer and more decomposed than that found at other places, though undoubtedly belonging to the
same series. The pebbles in the stream presented no particular difference from those previously
found in the other rivers. At the end of two miles, the river wound its way along the bases of a
succession of small hills, lateral spurs of the main range of mountains. A little more than two and
a half miles from the beach, (near camp 3,) we came upon the first well-exposed mass of rock we
had yet seen. The river for fifty yards runs through a gorge about 40 feet wide, with banks from
20 to 50 feet high. The rock is a hard, gray, dense syenite, portions of which have a very fine
grain and beautiful texture, capable of receiving a very high polish. At the top it was somewhat
decomposed, but below, even when exposed to the action of water, it was very little worn, the proj ections
being sharp and jagged. On one side (the south or right-hand side) the rock was entirely homogeneous
in character. On the other side were veins of quartz and large crystals of feldspar, and at one end
it was made up entirely of greenstone, the whole face being cracked and seamed in every direction.
These differences were more distinct near the base than at the top, it there appearing more like the
other side. It might therefore be inferred that when the cooling and contraction producing the
fissure occurred, some local oscillation may have also taken place, thus causing this slight fault or
dislocation, the southern side having undergone a subsidence of small extent. In the bed of the
stream occur several large bowlders of greenstone, probably detached from the sides above. Three
hundred yards above this gorge the river forks, in the angle of which was camp 3. The left fork
runs toward the northwest. For a quarter of a mile up this branch, the bed of the river runs over
immense masses of syenite, occasionally intersected with trap dikes of small extent, in some places
producing waterfalls from four to six feet high. At the end of this distance the river sweeps
abruptly around the point of a hill, producing a high bluff. Here we found, interstratified between
clay and decomposed granite, a seam of micaceous iron, very much resembling both graphite and
molybdenite. It was about three feet thick in all. Both the mineral and the clay, associated wTith
it, contained much crystallized iron and copper pyrites. By qualitative analysis it was found to
contain sesquioxide of iron, sesquioxide of alumina, copper, lime, silica, sulphur, and some phos¬
phoric acid. By fire assay it did not yield gold. It extended into the hill-side, but we had no way of
deciding how far it went. Several of the holes in the river, formed by projecting rock, were carefully
examined and the sand and clay panned for gold, but in no case did we find the faintest color. The
river-bed became more rocky, in some places almost impassable, the syenite, occasionally, being very
much water-worn. The hills on both sides were exceedingly steep and much more irregular in their
general position than at any other locality. The stream finally ended like the others in a succes¬
sion of waterfalls, so high and steep that it was perilous as well as useless to attempt to penetrate
farther. But we had gone far enough to determine that the entire nucleus of all the mountains
was syenitic, a fact fully verified at many other points. The line of survey did not follow the
river-bed, but followed an almost due west compass course over the hills, valleys, and gullies, which
were in interminable succession with no apparent regularity, but showing the evidences of great
local disturbances. At station 189+27, (18,927 feet from beach,) at an elevation by barometer of
444.4 feet above the sea, we observed, for the first time, a most gigantic specimen of the corotu tree.
At the base it was 18 feet in diameter, gradually sloping up for 30 feet, at a very small angle, then
suddenly it became about 12 feet in diameter, continuing thus perfectly straight and smooth for
about 90 feet, when it put forth four almost straight limbs, at right angles to each other. At a
little distance, the lower part resembled an immense cupola furnace. The wood of this tree and
of the espave is most valuable to the natives, as they furnish the material from which their largest
and most serviceable canoes are made. At station 202+87 (20,287 feet from sea) the line ended.
The height by barometer was 584.8 feet above the sea; here the torrents which formed the river,
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
131
about 50 feet below, could be clearly seeu, and showed how impracticable a road over them would
be. We then returned to camp 3, the survey taking a southern and southwest course, along the
right fork of the Aglasenequa and then over the main range of mountains to the Sueubdi River.
Camp 3 is a little more than two and a half miles from the beach, (13,407 feet by survey) and the
height above the sea is by level 87 feet.
The bed of the stream, for nearly a quarter of a mile above the camp, is made up of a suc¬
cession of syenitic and trap bowlders, about four to six feet in diameter. Then occurs a wall of
syenite over which the water falls—and the bed of the stream for two hundred yards is made up
entirely of this rock, occasionally projecting from the steep hill sides on either bank. It is per¬
fectly similar to that observed in the gorge below the camp. It is rendered very peculiar by a
series of large, deep, rectangular-shaped cavities. These are five in number, and occur at irregular
intervals throughout this distance, sometimes on one side of the stream and sometimes on the
other. The average dimensions are about 10 + 10 + 10 feet, and the largest is about twice this
size. The level of each is different, so that the water flows through small channels in the sides
from one to the other. The edges are but very little worn ; the sides are generally perpendicular,
with a few sharp projections, and not grooved as one would expect ; the bottom is level. They have
the ax>pearanee exactly of having been blasted out, but as there could never have existed a motive
to the natives, even if they had the means for so doing, it must be ascribed to natural causes.
The rock, like that in the gorge below, may have contained a great deal of hornblende and other
readily oxidizable minerals, segregated in little patches at variable intervals throughout its mass.
These becoming decomposed were washed out by the constant flow of water, and from the
absence of feldspar and quartz, the grooves usually formed in similar cases do not occur. These
cavities are filled with fish, which take the hook quite readily when the fisherman is not seen.
They consist of small perch, cat-fish, and a species of the serrasal monidœ ; the two latter from
three to seven inches loug. Beyond this point in the river the hills are wider apart and the stream
flows through a comparatively level valley for a mile, the country at every moment ax>pearing as if
it was about to become an open plain, from the deceptive light that comes through the trees.
At the point on the map marked camp No. 6, the syenite and trap again are exposed for a
short distance. Above we only find an occasional bowlder for half a mile. Then for nearly a
quarter of a mile'near where the compass-line crosses the river, we observed a bed of dark choco¬
late-brown volcanic mud, or very much decomposed lava, containing nodules of green-stone and
semi-crystalline pieces of decomposed iron ore and clay ; portions being quite hard and compact,
and portions also porous and readily picked to pieces and crumbled in the hand. Following up
the stream, it gradually branched off in smaller brooks and commenced to rise many feet to the
mile. It finally passed through a narrow channel, only three feet wide at the base and about seven
feet wide at the top. This was 18 to 20 feet deep and about 40 feet long. The rock was the same
syenite so often before met with. All along the sides were deep grooves and furrows where the
feldspar and quartz had resisted the action of water, to which its formation was evidently due.
Beyond this gorge there occurred a few trap bowlders, but the stream soon became a succession of
little mountain torrents. Following the compass-line, which took a straight course over the hills
for some distance from camj) No. 3, we found near station No. 150, in a gully, a kind of volcanic
conglomerate, the specimen marked No. 51, in the collection; descending lower we again found on
the side of the hill an outcrop of the same quartzite as before mentioned, with an apparent dip of
60° to the northwest, conforming to the outline of the hill. Near station No. 190 there occurred
a dike of trap and very near, in a small stream, a considerable exposure of decomposed granite,
of that white silicious appearance, with specks of pyrites, with every appearance of containing
gold—but neither it nor any of the material collected in small cavities lower down the stream
showed any gold either by the pan or by a blow-pipe assay. At station No. 240 the decomposed
granite and earth from a gully, which presented a most promising appearance, was treated with a
similar result. At station No. 256 to 90 the summit of the hill was passed, height by level 1,257.695
feet above the sea. At station No. 290 a small stream emptying into the Sueubdi River was crossed.
It contained in x>laces much decomposed granite, and at one point much black sand of magnetic
iron with numerous yellow shining specks, which on careful examination proved to be only scales of
yellow mica. A short distance beyond this stream brought us to station No. 302 of the compass-
132
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
line on the bank of the Sucubdi River, near which point camp No. 9 was situated. The river
presented no particular differences from wThat was said about it when struck at a point a half a
mile above by the Caledonia route. Height by level above the sea 562.311 feet. The ascent of the
mountains passed over was more gradual, although the summit was 200 feet higher than on the
Caledonia route, and differed from those at the extremity of the line on the left fork, in having
their lateral spurs more continuous and regular and showed evidences of less violent and sud¬
den forces of upheaval. „ The trees were the same as before observed ; caoutchouc, managua,
cedron, carbonero, mahogany, and tall ferns being very abundant. ' Occasionally the malamba,
which has a bark emitting a most delicate perfume, was met with ; the specimens sent to the ship
were unfortunately lost, as were some medicinal plants pointed out to me by the natives. The
guavito, amargo, cedron, and some of the gentians they use for fever; lacte del maria and palo
del soldado for wounds; cardo santo, sarsaparilla, and cabeza del negro, as anti-syphilitics;
the stem and leaves of the guaco and seeds of the cedron for snake-bites; and they cure cuta¬
neous diseases by the bark of the palo del"buba and leaves of the malva.
EXPLORATION AND RECONNAISSANCE DOWN THE SUCUBDI AND CHUCUNAQUE
RIVERS. (Plate XI.)
April 5 to April 13, 1870.
1.75 miles.*—The Napsati River enters the Sucubdi at this point. The height above the sea by
barometer is 508.7 feet. The river presents the same appearance as it does higher up, the
bed being filled with trap and syenitic bowlders, and the banks on either side bordered with
steep hills from fifty to a hundred feet high.
0.50 mile.—The banks become lower and the country more level ; occasionally a few neglected
banana plantations are met with. At this point was camp No. 7 on our return. For
0.90 mile beyond we found a bed of volcanic mud, containing nodules of greenstone and
oxide of iron similar to that mentioned at No. 150 on the Sucubdi line. We then left the
river, taking a path for
0.50 mile through the woods, crossing a succession of low hills, thus cutting off a bend of the
stream, which, when we struck again, contained immense masses of syenite much broken
and thrown up in the wildest confusion, both in the river-bed and along its sides, rendering
travel very laborious.
0.50 mile brought us to the mouth of the Asnati River, a stream so much more insignificant in
appearance than the actual importance of it had led some to suppose that it was passed
almost unheeded. The bed was filled with porphyritic trap and syenitic pebbles and some
bowlders. Height by barometer, at station No. 2 on the map, gave it as 127 feet; a mile
higher up the river and a mile and half below, as 100 feet.
1.50 miles the syenite continued, in one place in the river for three hundred yards, in such bowlders,
holes, and general confusion, that, taken with the rapid current, it was for some time doubt¬
ful if it could be climbed over. In places the rock was water-worn into narrow furrows 1
inches wide and 18 inches deep.
0.50 mile we passed over a brown volcanic conglomerate, or mud, easily broken in the hands, contain¬
ing nodules and similar to that before mentioned. For 200 feet it was much harder, con¬
taining pieces of uncrystallized feldspar, (orthoclase,) which at first appearance might be taken
for shells. At this point we had our camp No. 1, nearly 6.25 miles from camp No. 9. Here
were specimens numbered XVI to XXII found, consisting of quartz, porphyry, tufa, trachyte,
trap, and amygdaloid. The river flowed through a valley, the hills on the left bank being
offshoots from the main range and some distance off ; while on the right bank the hills came
abruptly down to the river and belonged to the dividing ridge between the Asnati and
Ohucunaque Rivers. Across the stream in front of the camp extended a layer of trachyte,
about 10 feet of which was exposed. Dip, 18° to northwest. The upper edge, near the right
bank, was four feet high, gradually sloping toward the left bank, where it was about two
* All the distances referred to will be taken from camp No. 9, the starting-point ; although the observations and
surveys were made while returning.
DAKIEX SHIP-CAXAL
133
feet liigli. Over this the water flowed like a mill-dam, which, at a short distance off, it
exactly resembled. This trachyte is marked XVL
0.40 mile we traversed a dense brown sandstone, in some places a shale, marked XY; we then
struck trap. Dip about 30° northwest.
0.50 mile the bed of the stream being so impeded it was necessary—
0.50 to clamber along the sides. Dor 560 steps along this distance there were immense bowlders of
syenite ; near the end there occurred one about 40 feet in diameter, rather separated from the
rest. The Indians, by signs, pointed to a scarred place down the steep mountain-side, on the
right bank, from the top of which it had recently fallen during the rainy season.
0.30 mile.—For 600 paces (we allow 2.5 feet to each pace) there occurred an immense mass of
porphyritic amygdaloidal trap : XII, XIII, and XIY ; then, for 200 paces ordinary—
0.00 syenite 5 then, for 760 paces, we observed only trap bowlders : XYII. We then, after passing
through some low land and a banana and cocoa plantation, came upon a high bluff of brown
shale on the left bank. This was about 70 feet high, in layers about 6 feet thick, occasion¬
ally jointed, dipping about 15° west. We were unable to reach it on account of the depth
of water. Lower down the stream became shallower, and the rock exposed on the surface was
soft and friable. At this point it may be said we had left the mountains and to have entered
a rolling country, the trees being smaller and the ground more open, or only covered with
an undergrowth of succulent plants.
0.20 mile.—At this distance beyond we found the bed to become gravelly, and a few conglomerate
and syenite bowlders to occur : 82-XII.
0.50 mile.—Only some trap bowlders were noted at first, but after a short distance we found shale,
0.50 and then sandstone, 81-XH, dipping 10° west.
0.70 mile.—We then for some distance passed through the woods over a hill 200 feet high, on left
bank, and found yellow sandstone for short extent, and a dirty-brown aluminous and mag-
nesian shale, which extended about 400 feet. At this point was barometrical station Xo. 4.
Height above sea 328.2 feet. On right bank was a hill about 250 feet high.
1.00 mile.—The bed of the stream was covered with gravel and pebbles ; the country generally
low without any remarkable features.
0.40 mile.—A bowlder 30 feet in diameter was found, (syenitic ;) and lower down, where the river
made several sharp turns around a hill, occurred a rapid, formed by the number of trap and
syenite stones there collected.
0.80 mile.—We again came upon sandstone, 81-XI, and rounding a point the river was almost
straight for a mile. On the left bank were several Indian houses and plantations. At about
this point the Indian plantations and settlements began.
1.00 mile.—Still pass over sandstone of a dirty-yellow color, soft, and on the surface rather friable.
Large settlement of the Indians on right bank on a high bluff.
0.80 mile.—Still pass over sandstone. Cutting off some of the bends of the river we passed through
open groves of cocoa, alligator-pear, and coffee. Also near the houses, pepper, corn, and
sugar-cane were observed, and a few palma christi plants. At this point we camped on
April 11. Camp Xo. 6.
1.00 mile.—We passed through several plantations, when we suddenly were in the midst of a village.
Below this the river formed a sudden bend, the banks on both sides being very high. Here
was exposed a very fine view of the sandstone, the river having evidently cut its way
through it. On the right bank, for 30 feet above the water, four layers were seen : com¬
mencing at the bottom, 10 feet of hard, yellowish graystone, then 5 feet of grayish stone,
then 10 feet of shale, and the remainder of a darker-colored shale. The dip was 15° north¬
west, and also sloping south, as we could distinctly see, on the other side of the river, which
here took a turn to the south.
0.50 mile.—We passed more plantations and large village of sixteen houses on right bank of river,
its bed being entirely made up of sandstone.
3.50 miles.—The country beautiful, rolling, abounding in plantations and numerous Coyivolvuli
and flowering plants and vines, the sandstone not visible, the bed being covered with pebbles
and gravel. 97-XYIII, vide specimen.
134
DARLEN SHIP CANAL.
1.20 miles.—We then struck a brown shale that extended this entire distance. In it were nodules
shaped like biscuits; they contained no shells or fossils, but were probably due to the
simultaneous attempt at crystallization of the lime and alumina of the body.
1.50 miles.—The banks became higher, sometimes 30 to 10 feet high. The shale overlaid a
brownish sandstone, having a dip 20° southwest. This was observable the entire distance—
sandstone, vide specimen, 77—VIII.
1.10 miles.—The sandstone was here brought to the surface more prominently, and the dip, 20°
southwest could be distinctly observed. It formed the entire bed of the river, sometimes as
smooth as flagging stone. Some pieces of crystalline quartz were picked up. 77—VII.
After passing a few islands in the river, formed by little streams during the rainy season,
we camped on April 6, (height by barometer above the sea 193 feet,) having marched during
the two days about twenty-one miles.
1.20 miles.—We then passed over a jointed shale for nearly half a mile. This split readily into
little cubic and rectangular blocks about two inches square, and at several places it was
washed away leaving a series of little steps. Specimen 78—VI. We also found in the
stream some crystalline quartz.
1.10 miles.—After passing through the woods for this distance we again struck the river and found
the same yellowish sandstone. The country was generally flat, and Indians had banana
plantations in great numbers up to this point.
0.70 mile.—The bed of the river was filled with cobble-stones, but the banks were high and a few
hills were passed over.
0.60 mile.—Sandstone dip 25° west, was found on emerging from the woods. Some few small hills
more were passed and, on descending a bluff about 30 feet high, we struck the river follow¬
ing through a narrow channel, about 20 to 30 feet wide, although the bed in time of high
water was over 120 feet wide. To the northwest we saw a feeble stream flowing into the
Sucubdi Biver, about 80 feet wide and 3 inches deep. This was the Chucunaque. The
height of barometer above the sea is 159.3 feet. The dry portion of the river-bed is covered
with pebbles similar to those so often found before, some of them containing a large amount of
iron and copper pyrites, but no gold. .We did not perceive the Mount Deseada which is
put down on the maps, nor any elevation at all approximating to even a respectable hill,
everything being on all sides hedged in by the impenetrable undergrowth.
1.60 miles.—The river-bed was entirely sandstone, the bank sometimes 30 feet high and so jagged
and water-marked as to render travel very painful. The river had evidently cut its way down
to its bed through the upper strata of this stone, which were soft and shaly, although the
bottom rock is hard, dense, and compact. V. 74. At the end of this distance we camped
at night, April 11.
0.90 mile.—The sides of the river were 20 feet high ; almost all this distance we noticed on the left
bank of the stream the sandstone forming an almost perpendicular wall, with a dip of about 10°
west. Then suddenly in the bend of the river we found on the right bank, a conical hill
about 300 feet high, the most conspicuous land-mark we had yet met. For over 1Q0
feet up its sides the sandstone could be distinctly seen, and it was quite bare of vegetation.
The top was covered with a few plants, which prevented the rock being seen. The river
was from 3 to 6 feet deeper than we had auy where before observed itj the current was about
three miles per hour.
0.70 mile.—We passed through the woods when we observed the sand-paper tree, some mahogany,
immense espave trees, and numerous dwarf pine-apple plants. Near the river-bank was a
tangled jungle of vines and briers, but 50 feet beyond walking was quite practicable.
6.80 miles.—The banks on both sides were formed of yellowish sandstone, along which we clam¬
bered as best we could. The stone was in three layers, twenty feet only was exposed, dip
10° west. At the end of this distance we came upon a small creek of sluggish stagnant
looking water, coming in on the right bank. The sides were quite steep and about 25 feet
high. (The river La Paz.) To the southwest a hill rose very gradually but not over 100
feet. III. 72, vide specimen.
0.20 mile.—Brought us to camp 3, of April 7. Height above sea by barometer, 124.9 feet. Imme-
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
135
diately opposite the camp was exposed a hard, heavy sandstone, 30 feet thick, dipping 20°
northwest. The top rock was soft and shaly. The river was here about 4 feet deep, the
current very slow, about two miles per hour.
1.40 miles.—We passed through the woods almost all of this distance, so that but little of the river
could be observed.
2.20 miles.—The ground was becoming much lower, the water more sluggish, and all along was now
noticed shale instead of sandstone, which had completely disappeared. As we advanced the
sides of the river were filled with cobble-stones and pebbles cemented in siliceous clay. The
bed of the stream was covered with gravel, pebbles, and rounded pieces of sandstone.
1.50 miles.—We then came into a perfectly open country, low and swampy, covered with a rank and
dense growth of wild rice and cane, a few palma christi plants and wild plantains. The
water was absorbed by the soil, so that but very little remained in the bed of the river. For
the last mile the banks were high, and near the woods we observed layers of semi-decom¬
posed leaves and twigs in a bluish clay. They were about 4 inches thick, with blue clay on
each side about 1 foot thick. Observation by barometer gave 118.5 feet above the sea.
2.30 miles.—These layers of leaves continued for one and one-quarter miles. The river after enter¬
ing the woods became again deeper. Along the sides the water was quite shallow, and the
wood and decomposed leaves gave off a strong smell of sulphureted hydrogen. Tracks of
the tapir and cougar were often observed in the soft mud, but the entire forest was inanimate
to a painful degree. At one place, where the banks were 20 feet high, we noticed large
trees, 30 inches in diameter, lodged at least 30 feet above the ground, showing the great
power and extent of the floods of the rainy season. At the end of this distance we camped
on April 8. Height above sea, 89.06 feet.
1.75 miles.—We advanced this distance farther down the river, the characteristics being the same:
high clay banks, then a jungle, and finally open woods, requiring but very little cutting.
The total distance traveled being, at 12 o'clock, April 9, 45.72 miles, by my account. On
the 13th of April we reached the ship. The last height taken was 88.7 feet above the sea,
showing but a very small fall for the last mile. By observing the leaves and small twigs
flowing down the stream we found that their average velocity was about 100 feet in 50
seconds, or 125 feet per minute, or a little more than 1.4 miles per hour.
BAY OE SAN BLAS—SURVEY OF THE NEROALAGUA RIYER. (Plate XII.)
May 2 to 18, 1870.
This is the smallest of the rivers that empty into this bay. The mouth is situated at a point
bearing due south from Point San Bias. It is obstructed by a sand-bar about three hundred yards
wide, but after passing this there is 10 to 15 feet depth of water in the middle of the channel. The
width of the river for the first half mile is about 130 feet ; it then begins to grow narrower. The tide
ebbs and flows for a mile and a half, the banks on either side being covered with dense mangrove
thickets ; the land is low and swampy and subject to inundations. Beyond this distance for a mile
the banks become higher, exposing sometimes clay bluffs, 20 feet high, with a covering of loam of
only two feet in thickness, much mixed with sand and of a looser nature than any before observed.
This ground is chiefly covered with canes and small bushes, and a few scattered palms, and being
easy to clear, the Indians have planted it with banana and sugar-cane plantations all along, at
intervals, for two and a half miles.
Two and a half miles from the mouth the river became too shallow for a row-boat to ascend
by rowing, but one could be dragged for half a mile farther, where a rapid occurs that bars the
X>assage. This rapid was composed of syenite and trap pebbles and cobble-stones, with small
pieces of sandstone or quartzite. A half mile farther the height above the sea by level was 75 feet.
We had now entered a symmetrical valley, formed by the dividing ridge from the Mandinga River,
on the left, and the lateral spur that extends to the sea at the southern point of the bay, on the
right. On the left the hills were only a short distance off, but on the right there was considerable
flat country intervening. About four hundred yards above the rapids there was a high bluff of
clay, about 35 feet. Six feet from the bottom it was bluish and stiff, containing three layers of
136
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
semi-decomposed leaves and twigs, about a foot thick; they might have been taken for an outcrop
of lignite, but from the evidences of heat being wanting, one can scarcely venture to pronounce
them such. From a side view, where the bank projected, one could see that they extended for
only a very short distance, and where the débris collected in some former puddle, which, suddenly
having been filled up, prevented their entire decomposition. Two miles further brought us to the
first camp, five and a half miles from the beach. Here several specimens of the pebbles in the
river-bed were collected. Specimen 125, found here, is rather peculiar; it is a piece of greenstone
of perfectly rectangular sections, with the exterior regularly oxydized for almost half an inch; it
was originally eight inches long, but from its singular appearance, wras divided into small pieces
by the men before we obtained it. Some might have been able to detect in it the proofs of its being
an Aztec relic. A few hundred yards above the camp we found a small deposit of conglomerated
chocolate-colored mud, containing nodules of oxide of iron and trap, similar to that found on
the Aglasumequa and the Sucubdi rivers. For the next two and a half miles the river-bed rose
very rapidly, and consisted of a series of rapids, over which a canoe could be pulled with some
difficulty. At the end of this distance the banks on the right of the stream began to grow higher,
and continued so up to the next camp. We here observed an outcrop of syenite for 300 feet, but
so covered with bushes the dip could not be determined. A half mile further it formed a bluff
about 20 feet high. Dip 20° southeast. For the next mile we noted it at intervals ; only a small
portion being exposed. We then came upon an outcrop of trap, dip 45° southeast, in blocks
about a foot square. Only about a foot was exposed above the water, and projecting from the
bank. A half mile farther, through a country that appeared about to grow more open, brought
us to camp 2, ten miles from the beach. For a mile more the river does not change its character,
but at the end of this distance the banks again growr high and steep, and wre sawr a small exposure
of sandstone or quartzite, but not enough to determine anything definitely about it. For the next
two miles the rapids had entirely disappeared, and hills 400 feet high arose on both banks of the
stream, the water in places being so deep as to render it necessary to swim. At the end of this
distance, we came upon an immense gorge of syenite, about 50 feet wide and nearly half a mile
long; near the end a trap dike divided it, exposed for 800 feet. The rocks in places were very
much worn and again the edges wTere as sharp and distinct as if only recently fractured. There
were numerous bowdders in the bottom, over which the water rushed with the greatest force; some¬
times falls 20 feet high occurred.
The apparent dip 30° southeast, the axis of the gorge rising north 'and south. A mile
further brought us to camp 3, after following a most circuitous course of the river; in a
straight east line from the mouth of the gorge, the camp was only three hundred yards. We went
a mile further up the river, still observing occasional outcrops of syenite, and, in places, fragments
of sandstone, which doubtless occurs here farther from the beach than at Caledonia Bay. Before
returning, we had an excellent opportunity of observing a tropical freshet. Opposite the camp the
river was about 100 feet wide, writh a depth of water about six inches. The banks were 15 feet
high. At 2.15 it had risen in two hours 10 feet ; wTe then, by placing sticks on the bank noted that
it rose about one inch per minute. By observing logs, they floated past a space of 110 feet in ten
seconds of time, or with a velocity of 11 feet per second, or at the rate of 7.5 miles per hour. It
rose about 15£ feet in three hours, and ran down to its normal level in about two hours more.
There having been no very heavy rains for a day and night before, it shows that we were still some
distance from the sources of this stream, or the water would not have taken so long a time to
collect and form a freshet, but would have run off immediately. It having rained heavily all the
next day, preventing the survey, and our provisions being nearly exhausted, we began our return
on May 17, and were overtaken by a freshet on the 18th, soon after reaching the boats from the
ship, three miles up the river.
POISON OF THE INDIAN ARROWS.
We inquired of all the Indians, both men and boys, at Caledonia Bay and at San Bias for the
ucurari"or "urari" poison, so often mentioned, but none of them appeared to have ever heard
the name. They admitted that they used poison on their arrows, and after numerous attempts
DAEIEN SHIP-CANAL.
137
they brought us what they represented to be the bona-fide poison. It was a watery liquid, with a
white precipitate at the bottom, which became milky by shaking. They by signs gave us to un¬
derstand that when it was intended to be particularly virulent it was necessary to expose it for
three days in the sun, then mixed with a paste before applying it to the arrows. It turned out to
be nothing but the juice of the manzanillo del playa. So, if this is their chief poison, and is the
same as the u eurari," it is not so much to be dreaded. Its effect appears to be different on differ¬
ent constitutions: on some, the juice will raise blisters, and the smoke of the burning wood will
attack the eyes, while others experience no harm. The natives wash the injured part in salt-water,
which is readily obtained, as the tree, fortunately, only flourishes near the sea-coast. The young
leaves and fruit steeped in milk are also said to be a perfect antidote. That which we have
is extremely volatile, giving off a strong smell of sulphureted hydrogen and other smells
which we could not detect. . From its volatile nature alone we would infer that it was only to be
dreaded while fresh, although the Indians maintain that exposure to the sun for three days causes
it to regain all its strength. We tried some of it on our hands when first obtained, and it had no
effect beyond the stinging produced by acid ; we also have made several experiments 011 rats and
cats, since our return. The animals appeared to grow sick after ten minutes, inclining to cough
or vomit, but in the course of an hour all unpleasant effects appeared to have passed away and
they were as well as ever.
CONCLUSION.
From the foregoing pages, although giving a faithful description and record of the various
rocks met with, it appears that very little geological diversity exists on the Isthmus, and may
be summed up in a very few words.
The low land at Caledonia Bay was once overflowed by the sea, but from the accumulation of
coral, forming islands, which afterwards became united, and from the overflow of the rivers and
vegetable decomposition, it finally became a continuous plain—an action that the most superficial
observer can now perceive going on in the bay itself. The ground now known as Nipsic Point, or
Mount Yernon, once wTas an island the same as the Isla del Oro, which, along with the hills in
the interior, (as observed on the trail to camp No. 3,) was produced by some lateral force co-incident
with the upheaval of the main range of mountains.
At a distance, varying Irom one and a half to two miles from the beach, sandstone is met with,
highly metamorphosed, forming a quartzite. This is inclined at a high angle, sometimes 60°,
(although modified by the surrounding topography,) and taken in connection with the steep slope
of the mountains on the Atlantic side, appears to have been upheaved and at the same time to
have been folded over.
Two miles and a half from the sea syenite is met with at an elevation of 80 feet above sea-
level. This forms the nucleus of the range of the Cordilleras, and then extends 13.25 miles, when
the sandstone is again struck on the Sucubdi Kiver, at a height of about 350 feet above the sea,
dipping 20° southwest. The mountains on the Pacific side having a very gradual slope, the sand¬
stone is followed for twenty miles, as near as we can reduce the courses on the Chucunaque and
Sucubdi Eivers to a straight line. It then disappears from the surface, but is probably again
observed, at a much lower level, on the dividing ridges between the Chucunaque, Yavisa, Tuyra,
and Savanna Eivers. At San Bias only a small outcrop was observed about nine miles from the
sea-shore ; it probably exists nearer the beach, but from being covered with undergrowth escaped
our notice. At Panama the dividing range is near the Pacific Ocean, but below this point
appears to have crossed the Isthmus diagonally, (so to speak,) until at Caledonia Bay it is only
two and a half miles from shore.
The mountains appear to have been elevated, not by any sudden action, but by a long and
gradual course of upheaval. Although volcanic rocks are found and the mountains are pierced
with numerous trap dikes, yet, in no place, were any of the usual indications of recent vol¬
canoes observed which would lead one to infer that this region was no more liable to a sudden
eruption than other parts of the world. We were not so fortunate as to find a single fossil ; they
are quite abundant in the deep cuttings along the line of the Panama Eailroad, but we had not
the opportunity of going there. From these the age of the mountains has been determined by Dr.
H. Mis. 113-—18
138
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Newberry and other distinguished geologists. That is the Miocene (H), and is probably identical
with that of the Coast Range of mountains of California, which, from the superposition and the
lithogical character, to some extent, the mountains of the Isthmus greatly resemble.
: With respect to minerals the difference is very marked, along the line of our survey, none of
any value having been found ; although at the junction of the Cretaceous and Tertiary, in New
Granada, and where that line approaches the Isthmus, gold is known to exist in large quantities.
I am indebted to Professor E. D. Cope, of Philadelphia, the well-known naturalist^ for naming
the following specimens of vertebrates :
1. Balistes melanopterus, (Cope,) species new.
2. Oxybelus acuminatus.
3. Basiliscus cristatus.
4. Gerres, (head.)
5. Thrasops occidentalis.
6. Lystognathus articulata.
Crab xanthodes, 1 species.
Holottumadse, 2 species.
Medibranch mollusco, 1 species.
Ophinraus, 2 species.
LIST OF GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS,
CALEDONIA BAY.
ISLA DEL ORO.
1. Quartz.
2. Crystalline quartz and decomposed feldspar.
3. Decomposed syenite, much water-worn.
4. Ferruginous quartz.
5. Ferruginous quartz.
60. Syenite.
WASHINGTON RIVER.
110. Porphyritic pebble.
6. Grayish porphyry.
7. Grayish porphyry.
8. Trap rock and pyrites coated with carbonate of lime, probably from coral.
9. Black quartz pebble.
10. Decomposed syenitic pebble.
11. Porphyry pebble.
12. Quartz pebble.
13. Trap pebble coated with marine deposit, one and a half miles from beach, probably coral.
14. Syenitic pebble.
15. Syenitic pebble with crystals of acicular hornblende.
16. Eleven pebbles of similar character.
108. Trachytic porphyry.
CALEDONIA RIVER.
17. Quartzite or metamorphosed sandstone from Rainy Hollow.
18. The same.
50. The same.
109. Porphyritic pebble.
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
AGrLASENEQUA RIVER AND ALONGr THE LINE TO THE SUCUBDI RIVER.
20. Syenite, from gorge below camp No. 3.
21. Hornblende rock, from same place.
22. Decomposed syenite, right fork three-quarters mile above camp No. 3.
23. Decomposed syenite, half mile above camp No. 8.
24. Decomposed syenite, two miles above camp No. 8.
25. Pyritiferous and micaceous iron, from left fork, a half mile above camp No. 3.
26. Sandstone, one and a half miles from beach, first rock on river.
27. Syenite, from gorge below camp No. 3.
28. Syenite, from gorge right fork two and a half miles above camp No. 3.
•29. Decomposed syenite, a half mile above camp No. 3. •'
30. Pyritiferous and micaceous iron, from left fork, one half mile above camp No. 3.
35. The same.
31. Decomposed syenite, two and a half miles above camp No. 3.
* «
32. Greenstone, from large bowlder right fork, a half mile from camp No. 3.
33. Syenite, two miles above camp No. 3.
34. Decomposed syenite, a half mile above camp No. 3.
36. Syenite, right fork, two miles above camp No. 3.
37. Syenite, right fork, three-quarters mile above camp No. 3.
38. Syenite, right fork, three-quarters mile above camp No. 3.
39. Syenite, right fork, two and a half miles above camp No. 3.
40. Syenite, left fork, end of compass-line.
41 and 57. Sandstone, one and a half "miles from beach, first rock on river.
45. Decomposed syenite, near station 240 on line to the Sucubdi.
51 and 58. Yolcanic conglomerate, near station 150, on line to the Sucubdi. 3 specimens
54. Greenstone, gorge below camp No. 3.
55 and 56. Greenstone, left fork, two and a half miles above camp No. 3.
61. Porphyry, gorge below camp No. 3.
62. Porphyritic, from bank on right fork of river.
SUCUBDI RIVER.
42. Quartz and pyrites.
43. Syenite, small stream near camp No. 9.
44. Quartz and pyrites.
46. Syenite.
47. Quartz and pyrites.
48. Eleven specimens of similar character.
52. Quartz.
53. Trap and pyrites.
59. Trap and pyrites.
EXPEDITION TO THE CHUCUNAQUE.
107. Trachyte, XYI.
106. Tufa, camp No. 1.
105. Trachyte, XYI.
104. Greenish porphyry, XVII.
103. Trap in volcanic mud, near camp No. 1. <
102. Nodule in volcanic mud, near camp No. 1.
101. Greenstone, two miles below camp No. 9.
100. Syenite, two miles below camp No. 9.
99. Trap, XVIII.
98. Quartz, XYI*
140
DABIEN SHIP-CANAL.
97. Porphyry, XVII.
96. Amygdaloid, XYIL
94. Black quartz, XII.
93. Trachyte, dark brown, XYI.
92. Trachyte, dark brown, XYI.
91. Trachyte, dark brown, XYI.
90. Jasper, (impure,) XYI.
89. Sandstone, XY.
88. Sandstone, XY.
87. Yolcanic tufa, camp No. 2.
86. Trachyte, XIY.
85. Trachyte, XIY.
84. Amygdaloidal trap, porphyritic, XIII.
83. Amygdaloidal trap, porphyritic, XII.
82. Syenitic bowlder, XII.
81. Sandstone, XII.
80. Sandstone, XI.
79. Yellow sandstone, Sucubdi Village, X.
77. Brownish sandstone, VIII.
78. Jointed shale, VII.
76. Crystalline quartz, VII.
75. Crystalline quartz, YI.
108. Porphyry, camp No. 1.
111. Decomposed syenite, two miles below camp No. 9.
CHTJCUNAQUE Kl VER.
95. Quartz pebble, mouth of river.
74. Grayish yellow sandstone, Y.
73. Yellowish sandstone, heavy, IY.
72, Sandstone, clayey and coarse, III.
71. Sandstone, hard and heavy, II.
70. Shale, I.
GULF OF SAN BLAS.
NICALAGrUA RIVER.
120. Hornblendic porphyritic rock, camp No. 1.
121. Syenite, two and a half miles above camp No. 1.
122. Syenite, two and a half miles above camp No. 1.
123. Greenstone, half mile below camp No. 2.
124. Greenstone, half mile below camp No. 2.
125. Greenstone, covered with oxide of iron,, camp No. 1.
126. Trap, from gorge one mile below camp No. 3.
127. Syenite, from gorge one mile below camp No. 3, (5 pieces.)
128. Syenite, decomposed and quartz, one mile above camp No. 3.
129. Quartzite, one mile above camp No. 3.
130. Eruptive pebbles, one mile above camp No. 3.
4.9. Syenite, camp No. 3.
BAROMETRICAL REPORT, BY J. PETIGRU CARSON, 1870.
Instruments used were Greene's Mountain Cistern Barometer, and Aneroid Barometers.
Method of taking the observations.—The barometer was first carefully reinverted and
the mercury lowered into the cistern by the thumb-screw at the bottom. It was then suspended to
a tree by screwing into the wood a sharp gimblet ; a gentle tap was given it to bring the mercury
into a solid column. It was then adjusted by making the surface of the mercury in the cistern
exactly tangent to the small ivory point in the instrument ; there should be neither a dimple in
the surface of the mercury nor a line of light between it and the point ; but the point and its
shadow should form a continuous unbroken line. Sometimes, when in the woods and the light is
unfavorable, it is well to hold a piece of white paper behind the instrument, both in the adjusting
and reading. Let it hang fifteen minutes. The attached and detached thermometers are
then read. The vernier is then brought exactly tangent to the convex surface of the mercury in
the tube, the center is obscured for a small space, while the light is seen on either side. The
thermometers are again read and the mean of the two readings recorded in the observation book.
Observations were taken on the sea-shore every fifteen minutes throughout the day from 7 a. m. to
6 p. m., so that they should be simultaneous with those taken in the woods. The barometer used
was always compared with the standard, both before and after using in the woods, and the differ¬
ence noted.
Computation of the Observations.—A modification of La Place's formula, published in
Lee's Tables, (United States Engineer Department,) and in all the English books of surveying, was
used, which did not take in the correction for vapor, &c. To test the value of this formula the
tables based on La Place's formula, and' altered by experience, given in recent books on the barom¬
eter, by Lieutenant-Colonel Williamson, United States Army, now also used, and are marked by
a star in the tables here added.
By examining the following example the two methods can be readily understood. By William¬
son the observations are reduced to 32°, and the vapor term is considered.
Example 1.—Station 42.—March 3.
Upper station.
Bar. 1734= 28.956 inches — .095 (difference from
standard.)
At. ther. = 77.
Dt. ther. = 75.
Wet bulb = 73.
t = temperature of air at lower station ;
V = temperature of air at upper station ;
r = temperature of mercury at lower station ;
r' — that at upper ;
A = correction for temperature dependent upon t +t/m7
C = correction for latitude of place.
B = that for the mercury dependent upon r—r' ; and
Lower station.
Bar. 1732=29.900 inches.
At. ther. = 85.5.
Dt. ther. = 85.2.
Wet bulb = 82.
142
DABIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Then-
t -j- V =160.2 From table, A = 4.82474
r—r' = 8.5 From table, B = 0.00037
Lat. 10° C = 0.00111
log B, 29.900 = 1.47567
log B', 28.861 = 1.46131
+ B, .00037
D
1.46068
0.01499
Log D = 8.17580
A = 4.82474
C = 0.00141
3.00165 = 1003.8 + (5—1=correction for standard above
sea) = 1007.8 = altitude in feet.
By Williamson's tables :
At ther. D. B. W. B. Dif. R. H.
Upper station at 32° = 28.735 77 75 73 2 89.1
Lower station at 32° = 28.748 85.5 85.2 82 3.2 84.4
Table DI9
t x t =162.5
29.748
28.735
a + a' = 1.735
28589.5
27680.9
Diff. = first approximate diff. of alt. 908.6
Table Dn, arg. 162.5 and 1,000 = 100.3
100.3 x 908.6
1000
1.1
Second approximate diff. of alt. 999.7
Table Dm, args. 10° lat. and 1,000 2.5
Table DIV. argument 1,000 2.5
Table Dv, argument 1,000 and 29.7 inches 0.1
Third approximate diff. of alt.
Table DVI, 28.7 and 29.7 = 9.3
Table DVII, 9.3 and 162.5 = 5.8
5.8 x 1.735 = vapor correction
Difference of altitude
1004.8
10.1
1014.9 + (5—1)* = 1018.9
The following fable is quite convenient for approximate results. A tenth of an inch in the
mercurial barometer corresponds to a column of air varying from 87 to 100 feet, at temperatures
from 32° to 100° :
Temp.
Bar.
Column of air,
Temp.
Bar.
Column of air,
o
inch.
feet.
o
inch.
feet.
32
0.1
187.51
65
0.1
93.92
35
0.1
88.09
70
0.1
94.90
40
0.1
89.06
75
0.1
95.87
45
0.1
90.03
80
0.1
96.84
50
0.1
91.01
85
0.1
97.81
55
0.1
91.98
90
0.1
98.79
60
0.1
92.95
95
0.1
99.95
* Barometer at upper station above ground, 1 foot, subtractive ; barometer at lower station above sea, 5 feet,
additive.
t Or 875.1 feet to one inch.
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
143
Comparison of the Barometer used in the Woods with the Standard.—-It was com¬
pared three hours on the night of February 24, and found to need a + correction of 0.006,* using
this correction for the observations taken from February 25 to March 3, on Caledonia River, we
obtained results which were absurd. A later comparison after the return showed that a correction
of 0.095 was needed. Applying this correction to the observations of February 25 and 26, we also
again get absurd results; but after reaching station 10, and from there on, we find the results to
come out more satisfactorily. From which we conclude that the instrument had "jumped" consid¬
erably between the beach and that station. On'March 16, when barometer 1734 was last compared
with the standard, the correction was 0.092. It was again compared from March 19 to 21, and
found to be 0.085 different from the standard. This correction was used ever afterward, until the
barometer was broken on the Chucunaque River. Before starting, at a bench-mark, the height of
which was determined by the spirit-level, the barometer was carefully recorded ; with this height
and the known height of the barometer at the sea, the formula was worked backwards to see what
the height should be at the station; and deducting that calculated height from the real height
observed, the difference from the standard was found to be 0.082, showing that the barometer had
undergone no change that needed correction.
»
Comparison of altitudes obtained by spirit-level, and by mercurial and aneroid barometers, computed by
Williamson's and Lee's tables.
By referring to the tables here added we see the following facts :
That by Williamson's tables, mercurial barometer No. 1734, the mean of nine observations
that give a result higher than the spirit-level, (a plus result,) is equal to +13.6 feet.
The mean of six observations that give a result lower than the spirit-level, (a minus result,)
is equal to —27.4 feet.
The algebraic mean of fifteen observations gives a result lower than the spirit-level equal to
—3.6 feet.
With the aneroid barometer No. 26252:
The mean of three observations that give a plus result is +86.3 feet greater than the spirit-
level.
The mean of eight observations that gave a result lower than the spirit-level, (minus result,)
is equal to —122.4 feet.
The algebraic mean of eleven observations gives a result lower than the spirit-level equal to
—65.5 feet.
By Lee's tables, with the mercurial barometer 1734.
The mean of thirty-one observations that give a result greater than the spirit-level, is equal
to +19.9 feet.
The mean of fifteen observations giving a result lower than the spirit-level, is equal to —19.0
feet.
The algebraic mean of forty-six observations gave a result higher than the spirit-level equal
to 7.2 feet.
We thus see fully the value of the two barometers, when compared with the spirit-level, in the
field ; the results being so unsatisfactory, we considered it unnecessary to waste any more time on
the aneroids. They may do on side trips of short extent, by using three or four together, and
constantly comparing them, in which case they are as cumbersome to carry as the mercurial, and
take more time in getting the proper corrections for computation ; and at the best leave one in
considerable doubt. The expense of this number of aneroids is not considered as compared with
the cost of one mercurial barometer.
Before closing this part of the report, I cannot refrain Troin mentioning the men who carried
the mercurial barometer with great care and success. From February 25 to March 3, it was car¬
ried by Avery, quartermaster of the Nipsic. From the 16th March to 5th of April, it was carried
with the most intelligent care by Asa Brink, of the United States Marine Corps, who is worthy of
special commendation, not only for his uniform assiduity and faithfulness, but also his sure-foot-
144
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
edness, that alone peculiarly fitted him for this work. From 5th to 9th April the barometers were
carried by Aug. Grefe, a seaman of the Guard, in whose hands the mercurial barometer was found
to be broken, on the Chucunaque River, on the 9th of April, to the infinite regret of the entire
party.
Calculation of the Horary Curves of the Barometer.—The method by which these
curves were deduced was according to the rules laid down by Williamson on the use of the ba¬
rometer ) which is the only authority that admits the possibility of reducing a proper curve from a
short series of observations.
By examining the diagram, it will be seen that the maximum reading of the barometer occur¬
red about 10 a. m. with the mercurial barometer and about 10.30 to 11 a. m. with the aneroid,
and the minimum reading occurred about 5 p. m. At approaching and leaving these critical
moments it was observed that the oscillations were much more gradual. The mean variation of the
mercurial column was between 29.850 and 29.875 inches reduced to 32° F. Several curves, both
by the mercurial and two aneroids are plotted. In deducing the mean curve, those of the 9th,
11th, 16th, and 21st March are rejected. On the 11th and 21st the irregularity of the curve
can only be attributed to incorrect reading, assuming such to be the case ; what was probably the
true reading is shown in dotted lines. By comparing the curves made by the aneroid barometers,
they are found to differ very much from the standard's curves and also in the most erratic manner
among themselves. This is peculiarly to be noticed in the curves of the 11th and 16th March,
which are of themselves very erratic. The aneroids do not show this oscillation at all. To confirm
the care exercised in reading the barometers on the 11th, the curve formed by mercurial barometer
1734 is plotted—it is the same in character as that produced by the standard No. 1732. It is to
be regretted that the curve formed by 1734 on the 16th March could not also be plotted, but the
barometer on that day was removed to the woods. The barometrical day was supposed to com¬
mence at 7 a. in., but on many occasions it did not commence until 8.30 to 9 a. m., thus adding to
the labor of computing the curves in no small degree. However, we are enabled to compare the
aneroid barometer with the mercurial and again see its value. Lest some might suspect that, if
only one were used, it might have been out of order, the curves of two of the best are shown.
Whether the great moisture of the climate has penetrated the interior, thus corroding the springs
and fulcrums of the levers by which they work, we are not able to say. They may be better in
drier climates, but the above details are the measure of their value, as demonstrated by this expe¬
dition.
J. PETIGRU CARSON.
Commander Thos. O. Selfridge, U. S. N.,
Commanding Darien Expedition.
AGLASENEQUA RIVEE TO CAMP 9 ON SUCUBDI RIVER.
M
tri
Locality.
oo Camp 3, B. M. 17.
Bo
CD
Do.
Do
Stake 179 + 80
Stake 189 + 27
Camp 6
Stake 202 + 87
Camp 8
Stake 157+25, B. M. 18
300 feet down river
from Stake 189.
B. M. 22, 780 feet
above Stake 189.
Near Camp 8, B. M. 21
206 + 8, B. M. 23
Station 213, near
Camp 8
215 + 80, B.M.24
Stake 240
B. M. 25
258 + 15
B. M. 21
Do.
215 + 80, B. M. 24
Do
Do
Date.
Mar. 16
Mar. 17
Mar. 17
Mar. 18
Mar. 25
Mar. 25
Mar. 25
Mar. 25
Mar. 27
Mar. 28
Mar. 28
Mar. 28
Mar. 29
Mar. 29
Mar. 29
Mar. 30
Mar. 30
Mar. 30
Mar. 30
Mar. 31
Mar. 31
Mar. 31
Mar. 31
Mar. 31
Time.
6.00 p. m .
2.40 p. m.
4.40 p. m .
11.20 a. m .
10.40 a. m .
Lower station (standard.)
Mercurial ba¬
rometer 1732.
Attacked ther¬
mometer.
Det'd
therm'r.
Pu
O
+ 3D
Co ID
«W ©
Relative h u -
midity.
(A
Pu
p
A
©
£
© d
© *r_i
© n
£-s
P
30,000
81.5
78.5
....
• m m •
• ■» • •
30.016
30.090
83.5
84.
81.
81.5
76.
.792
.737
30. 080
80.
79.5
76.
.800
.822
29. 964
29. 928
29. 896
29. 940
29. 938
30. 042
83.2
83.
83.
83.
84.
84.
81.
81.5
84
84,
81.3
81.5
30. 036
30. 053
30. 018
30.026
84.
83.
81.
84.
83.
83.
82.
82.
29. 959
84.
84.
77.5
.803
.702
30. 038
84.
83.
79.
.947
.896
30. 030
82.8
82.
80.8
.960
.938
29. 998
89.5
83.
81.8
.960
.939
29.950
83.3
82.4
81.
.960
.928
30.032
79.5
79.
78.
.937
.946
30.038
81.7
80.
79.
.968
.946
30. 036
82.7
81.
80.
.968
.947
(t)
(t)
1.20 p. m .
3.50 p. m .
12.30 p. m .
4.09 p. m .
8.50 a. m .
12.00 m ...
1.20 p. m .
8.00 a. m .
12.00 m ...
2.15 p. m .
9.25 a. m .
12.00 m ...
1.15 p. m .
3.00 p. m .
10.00 a. m .
10.45 a. m .
12.00 m ...
1.00 p. m .
1.15 p. m .
* Williamson's Formula.
Upper station.
oS
-S u
Pu ©
§1
3®
s ^
©
_ ©
ns -M
© ®
& B
S ©
ga
29.974
30. 000
29. 980
30. 090
29, 632
29. 532
29. 726
29. 401
29. 840
29. 870
29. 936
29. 870
29. 946
29. 670
29. 484
29. 448
29. 070
29. 024
28.714
29.964
29. 436
29. 410
29. 402
75.5
78.
76.
75.4
77.2
78.
77.5
79.
76.
76.6
80.
77.
74.
79.
es
m
(M
<©
©
©
©
d
<1
Pu
©
© ©
rd g
s g
s
30.180
30.180
30.116
30.258
79.5
78.
76.
76.
29. 880
29. 925
78.
76.
29. 945
77.5
77. 5 29.525
76.
75.8
76.
74.5
74.
76.2
74.7
74.7
29.130
29.087
28.720
29.860
29. 860
29. 590
29.580
29. 580
76.
78.
78.
76.
75.5
75.
75.
77.
75.8
75.
Det'd
therm'r.
P
75.
76.6
76.
75.
76.3
76.5
77.5
78.
76.
73.7
78.
75.6
73.7
77.5
77.5
76.3
76.
75.2
75.2
74.5
74.3
75.5
74.7
75.3
-M
©
(S
Pu
0
01 •
ce ®
& °
S.2
s.s
O"-1
p
74.2
74.2
.804
.823
72.5
73.5
72.5
71.5
71.2
71.6
73.8
73.
d
A
©S
pH
>H=S
•r-i
la 2
"©
PH
. 903
944
738
.715
.680
.688
.692
.802
.787
73.7.803
72.2
72.
.738
.724
.796
.804
766
.793
812
.961
.938
.903
.865
.828
Correc¬
tion for—
p-i
©
-M
© .
a£
©P
Pu
p
-.092
—.090
-.090
—. 088
-. 085
,085
. 085
. 085
—. 085
—. 085
—.085
-.085
-.085
—.085
-.085
-. 085
-.085
—. 085
—. 085
—. 085
, 085
—.085
—. 085
085
c*
o
«o
Ci
o
Pu
©
a
*4
Elevation
of cisterns,
in feet.
©
CO
©
l>
©
3
+5
5
d
d
©
Pu
bJ3
©
o
3
-2.5
2.5
2.5
2.5
2.
3.
2.
2.
2.
2.
2.
1.
5.
1.3
2.
2.
2.
1.4
1.4
1.
1.
1.
©
> oi
© i©
.Q Oi
(3®
,d
.bps
© Pu
d ©
£ a
©5
■g>
© ^
Pu cs
Pu ®
C CQ
o
239.5
*607. 4
*1, 061. <
*886. 9
1, 335. 9
277.3
© c«
%£
Hi
•H
+ d .
bD ©
■S
rd |H
rrU M Pu
© S
9. eg a
C © ©
O ® *
{
106.
108.
91.2
*91.6
*69.4
375.4
444. 4
215.8
584. 8
151.7
218.
157.7
242.8
125.3
ç 407.
* *340.2
r 512.
( *532. 5
632.
*656. 6
< 998.9
***1,015.6
*1, 024.1
Ç1,284.
**1,291.8
126.1
*127. 4
126.1
7
642.5
c 126.
I *133.
*545. 2 642. 5 649. 4
649. 4
649v4
t No observations taken.
>3
r©
<3
S •
00 rrt
<D
1-3
•i-g
•r-t
n
*»—i
<D
W
d-d i
© s a
© 83 o
£ © &
*+3 f>,0
2®*
. »rH , -*
e a ©
S ©=2
©
BH <t> Cl
p^a-9
,©'£ t>s *4
s.s£s
o
86.26
86.26
| 86.
26
86. 26
334.7
255.4
175.8
197.9
157.5
} 425. 2
1547. 8
649.3
| 993. 4
993.4
jl, 265.
1157. 5
1157. 5
+20. 26
22.26
5. 34
40.7
44.9
7.3
22.2
30.7
26.8
—16. 86
37.4
18.1
32.2
85.
15.3
30.1
23.8
6.9
a
ê
©u
©
d •
© ©
M fc
ta.®
i
©
+7.5
+26. 45
Remarks.
—26. 95
Clear.
Do.
Do.
Rain.
Left fork of river
above Camp 3;
cloudy.
Do.
Do.
End of line; cloudy.
On left fork of riv¬
er; rainy.
Clear after rain.
Do.
Do.
Rain.
Sun.
Clear.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Heavy rain.
Clearing.
Cloudy.
Clearing.
Do.
«
w
►—i
tel
A
zo
M
hj
«
Q
>
YA
!>
te»
Oi
AGLASENEQUA RIVEE TO CAMP 9 ON SUCUBDI RIVER—Continued.
Locality.
215 -f 80, B. M. 24
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do.
256 + 90, B. M. 26
Do
Do
Do
Do
280 + 80, B.M.27
Do
Do
Do
Do
B. M. 27
Do
Do
Do
Do
B. M.28
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Date.
Mar. 31
il
Ap
Apr
Ap
Apr:
April
Ap
Ap
Ap
Ap
Ap
Ap
Ap
Ap
Ap
Ap
Ap
Ap
Ap
Ap
Ap
Ap
Ap
Ap
Ap
Time.
Mar.
31
1.30 p. m .
30. 000
Mar.
31
1.45 p. m .
(t)
Mar.
31
2.00 p. m .
29. 988
Mar.
31
2.15 p. m .
(f)
Mar.
31
2.30 p. m .
29.986
Mar.
31
2.45 p. m .
(t)
Mar.
31
3.00 p. m .
29. 979
Lower station, (standard.)
f© CO
I-
r-H
S H
Px CD
rj
5 m
ë
s
©
©
^ Px
^ S
© ©
rP £
^ 5
$ g
<4
3.30 p. m .
11.00 a. m .
11.30 a. m .
12.00 m ...
12.30 p. m .
1.00 p. m .
9.30 a. m .
10.00 a. m .
10.30 a. m .
11.00 a. m .
11.30 a. m .
12.00 m
1.00 p. m .
1.30 p. m .
2.00 p. m .
2.30 p. m .
3.45 p. m .
4.00 p. m .
10.00 a. m .
10.30 a. m .
11.00 a. m .
11.40 a. m .
12.00 m. ..
1.05 p. m .
3.07 p. m .
84.
83.
29. 972
30. 057
30.039
30. 032
30. 021
30. 012
30. 005
30. 006
30. 005
30.005
29. 999
29. 996
29. 980
29. 961
29. 946
29. 938
29. 918
29. 914
29. 960
(t)
(t)
(t)
29. 942
(t)
29.
83.7
84.
85. 3
81.
82.
82.
82.
83.
81.
80.
80.
80.
81.
82.
83.
84.
83.
84.
84.
83.
80.
2
Det'd
therm'r.
>»
Px
P
82.6
82.
83.
+5
©
£
Px
O
05 ©
>Xi
©x ©
o a
© -i-1
2 S
f-i «rH
o
ft
81.4
81.
89.8
82.
83.8
80.9
81.3
81. 2
81.2
82.
80.1
80.
80.
80.1
81.
81.
82.
83.
82.2
83.
82.
81.3
79.8
81.5
81.7
80.
80.4
80.5
80.6
81.4
80.
79.
79.8
79.8
79.9
80.
78.
80.
80.
80.5
81.1
78.8
78.
81. 2 81.
878 82. 9
82.2
960
968
p
A
î> T3
•rH • rH
us
r—H
®
ft
.939
948
.960
.979
945
988
988
974
977
977
988
968
986
984
966
999
877
951
976
988
988
949
920
79.5
79.8
989
970
958
974
.941
. 941
922
. 878!:
Upper station.
Correc¬
tion for—
Elevation
of cisterns,
in feet.
Mercurial ba-
; rometer 1734.
1
i
Px
©
ft ^
-M
H© X3
© ©
<m
iO
CM
to
CM
i
Px
©
rP M
P ®
r© -|_
© ©
Det'd
therm'r.
Px"
©
« ®
©
i
P
.
©E
Px
©
© .
a «
CM
o
<M
CO
cm
eS
©
CD
r©
P
P
©
Px
bC
n y
2 ©
•rH
©
Px
©
p
<1
r© g
s ©
s a
<1
>>
Px
p
+-Î
£
c p
Q -rH
S ©
©
P
f> '©
§'a
,©
Px
cS
P
•rH
©
Px
©
p
©
>
O
©
>
O
29. 400
75.
29. 580
75.8
75.
72.
.729
.841
—.085
....
+5
»
—1.
29. 386
74.8
29. 580
75.
75.
71.5
.680
.771
—.085
5
1.
29. 384
74.8
29. 580
75.3
75.2
71.4
.701
.802
—. 085
5
1.
29. 380
75.
29. 575
75.2
75.2
71.9
.724
.825
—. 085
5
1.
29. 370
75.5
29. 575
76.
75.2
72.5
.734
.855
—. 085
5
1.
29. 366
75.5
29. 579
75.8
76.1
72.3
.715
.805
—.085
5
1.
29. 364
75.5
29. 570
75.5
75.6
71.8
.701
.802
—.085
5
1.
29. 360
75.
29. 570
75.5
75.
72.
.729
.841
—.085
....
5
1.
98. 824
73.
28. 860
73.
73.
71.
.746
.890
—. 085
• m m m
5
0.6
28. 816
73.5
28. 800
73.
73.2
71.
.718
.879
—.085
m m m m
5
0.6
28. 808
73.8
28. 870
73.
74.2
71.
.701
.830
—.085
....
5
0.6
28. 800
76.
28. 860
74.
74.2
71.
.701
.830
—.085
....
5
0.6
28. 784
76.7
28. 870
74.3
74.4
71.3
.703
.835
—. 085
....
5
0.6
29.268
74.
29. 340
75.
73.5
72.5
.739
.943
—.085
x . • .
5
1.2
29.258
73.
29. 339
74.
73.
71.9
.764
.938
—.085
....
5
1.2
29. 250
73.7
29. 339
74.
73.8
72.5
.724
.828
—.085
....
5
1.2
29.238
74.6
29.330
75.
74.7
71.5
.713
.832
—.085
....
5
1.2
29. 226
74.1
29. 328
74.6
73.8
72.
.749
.900
—.085
....
5
1.2
29.218
73.9
29. 327
74.5
73.7
70.5
.677
.829
—.085
....
5
1.2
29.186
74.7
29. 320
75.
74.
71.5
.725*
.864
—.085
....
5
1.2
29.182
74.7
29. 320
75.
74.8
70.6
.661
,783
—.085
....
5
1.2
29.186
75.
29. 280
75.
74.5
71.1
.698
.821
—.085
....
5
1.2
29.162
74.6
29. 280
75.
74.5
70.8
.692
.809
—.085
....
5
1.2
29. 408
76.8
29. 320
79.
76.3
71.
.668
.737
—.085
*
....
5
0.
29. 398
75.5
29. 310
77.
75.2
71.2
.668
.793
—.085
....
5
0.
29. 468
76.
29. 360
75.6
75.5
74.
.808
.918
—.085
....
9
0.
29. 464
76.
29. 370
75.
75.5
74.
.808
.918
—.085
. . . .
5
0.
29. 452
75.5
29. 370
76.2
74.3
72.8
.783
.917
—.085
....
5
0.
29. 448
75.5
29. 370
75.8
75.2
73.5
.778
.906
—. 085
....
5
0.
29. 440
78. 7
29. 370
79.
76.5
73.2
. 750
.829
— 085
....
5
0.
29. 432
79.
29. 361
80.5
78.2
73.2
.721
.753
—.085
....
5
0.
129. 392
81.5
29. 370
82.1
79.5
72.8
.694
.676
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Kemarks.
Sim.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Cloudy.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Sun.
Do.
Do.
Cloudy.
Cloudy and smoky.
Clearer.
Do.
Little sun.
Cloudy.
Cloudy.
Clear, sunshine.
Do.
Clear.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Light rain.
Same, "but clearer.
Do.
Do.
Clear.
Do.
Do.
0^
o
d
>
ta
rH
tel
îzj
m
M
HH
hj
a
«
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Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
April
April
April
April
April
April
April
April
April
April
April
April
April
4.00 p. m .
4.45 p. m .
7.45 a. m ,
8.30 a. m .
9.00 a. m .
10.00 a. m .
11.00 a. m
12.00 m—
1.15 p. m .
2.00 p. m .
3.00 p. m .
4.00 p. m .
5.00 p. m .
<t>
(t)
(t)
(t)
30. 008
(t)
(i)
29. 986
(t)
(t)
29. 932
29. 918
29. 900
82.
83.
83.
83.
80.5
81.
82.4
82.5
81.5
80.
78.
79.9
80.
80.4
79.
896
937
966
968
848
.874
.942
.946
29.
29.
29.
29.
29.
29.
29.
29.
29.
29.
29.
29.
29.
382J9.
376,77. 5
460 72.3
486 73.
494 73.
500 74. 8
492 76.5
47878.
468 80. 7
442 80. 5
422 79. 8
40479.
406 76. 5
29. 360
80.
77.5
72.5
.696
.751
—.085
5
0.
29. 361
79.
77.
72.6
.706
.772
—.085
5
0.
29.370
72.2
73.
71.5
.706
.915
—.085
....
5
0.
29. 370
72.3
73.
72.
.714
.942
—.085
• • • •
5
0.
29. 375
73.2
73.5
72.4
.763
.938
—.085
....
5
0.
29.375
75.
74.9
73.
.775
.897
—.085
- m m. m
5
0.
29.375
76.3
75.9
74.8
.845
.940
—.085
m m m m
5
0.
29.375
78.
77.
74.
.782
.843
—.085
m m m m
5
0.
29. 375
80.
79.
74.5
.755
.777
—. 085
m m m •
5
0.
29. 360
80.5
78.7
74.
.752
.767
—. 085
m m m »
5
0.
29. 370
79.6
79.5
74.1
.741
.738
—.085
» m m m
5
0.
29.360
79.
78.
73.4
.754
.770
—. 085
m m m m
5
0.
29.360
77.8
75.8
73.7
.799
.887
—. 085
5
0.
562.3
562.3
562.3
562.3
562.3
562.3
562. 3
•
567.9
5.6
575.8
562.3
562.3
562. 3
13.5
•
585.6
585.5
567.1
562.3
562.3
562.3
23.3
23.2
4.8
+10.19
Do.
Do.
Cloudy.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Clear.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Rain.
* Williamson's Formula.
SUCUBDI AND CHUQUENAQUE RIVERS.
11STo observations taken.
Lower station.
Upper station.
Barometer 1734—dif¬
ference from stand¬
ard.
Elevation of cis¬
Height of barometer
above sea.
Corrected height of
barometer above sea.
Aneroid 26252.
Attached thermom¬
eter.
Mercurial ba¬
rometer 1732.
Attached ther¬
mometer.
Detached ther¬
mometer.
Mercurial ba¬
rometer 1734.
Attached ther¬
mometer.
Detached ther¬
mometer.
tern,
above
Sea,
1732.
in feet,
—m
Ground,
1734.
Dry.
Wet.
Dry.
Wet.
30. 054
80.5
80.
78.8
29. 612
76.5
76.7
75.
-.085
-f 5
-4.
506. 7*
507.7
29. 459
77.
30. 009
83.5
82.
77.
29. 616
76.
76.5
75.
-.085
5
4.
460. 8*
461.8
29. 420
76.
30. 009
83.5
82.
77.
29. 596
76.
76.3
74.2
-.085
5
4.
479. 3*
480.3
29. 420
76.
30. 012
81.
80.2
78.
29. 648
74.3
75.
74.2
-.085
5
4.
421. 7*
422.7
29. 360
74.3
30. 052
84.
82.2
79.
29. 786
76.3
76.8
75.8
-.085
5
4.
326.2*
327.2
29.370
77.
29. 922
82.
81.
79. '
29. 814
80.
79.8
76.7
m
oo
0
•
1
5
4.
187. 9*
188.9
29.380
80.
29. 959
80.5
79.8
77.
29. 840
77.5
77.7
76.5
-.085
5
4.
195.2*
196.2
29. 380
77.
29. 980
84.5
83.
81.
29. 900
82.6
81. 8
-.085
5
2.5
155.4
157.9
29. 400
82.
29. 968
85.
83.
81.
29. 884
84.
84.
-.085
5
2.5
163.1
165.6
29. 400
82.
29. 887
81.
80.7
80.
29. 846
83.5
84.
-.085
5
5.
123.7
123.7
29. 440
84.
29. 938
80.
80.
79.
29. 878
75.
75.
-.085
5
5.
125.9
125.9
29. 440
75.
29. 950
84.
83.
81.5
29. 954
95.6
95.6
-.085
5
1.
114.5
118.5
29. 480
95.7
29. 929
78.5
82.2
77.5
29. 916
75.5
75.5
-. 085
5
4.
88. 06
89. 06
29. 420
75.5
29. 972
83.5
82.2
79.8
29. 956
86.5
56.5
-. 085
5
25.
108. 73
88. 73
29. 420
86.
S
e3
Q
Apr. 5
Apr. 5
Apr. 5
Apr. 6
Apr. 6
Apr. 6
Apr. 7
Apr. 7
Apr. 7
Apr. 7
Apr. 8
Apr. 8
Apr. 9
Apr. 9
©
a
c 9.00 a. m. }
c 11.00 a. m. j
c 1.15 p. m. }
112.45 p. m. j
c 1.15 p. m. i
I 1.25 p. m. >
c 9.00 a. m.
I 6.55 a. m. >
c 11.15 a. m. )
110.45 a. m. •>
5.00 p. m
c 7.00 a. m. î
\ 7.15 a. m. >
11.00 a. m ...
11.35 a. m ...
c 5.00 p. m. i
* 4.45 p. m. ■>
7.00 a. m
1.00 p. m
c 7.00 a. m. î
t 6.53 a. m. >
10.15 a. m
Remarks.
r. Height of starting-point on Sucubdi by
c level 562 feet ; clear.
Clear, 31 miles below.
Clear.
Clear ; Camp No. 1, 5 miles.
Clear ; 71 miles.
Clear ; Camp No. 2, 141 miles.
Clear ; Camp No. 2.
r Junction of Sucubdi and Chu-
}
Clear.
c quenaque, 18 miles.
Î Clear ; Junction of the La Paz and
Chuquenaque.
Clear.
Cloudy ; 51 miles beyond junction.
c (12 m., mercurial barometer found to
i be broken.) Clear.
* Williamson's Formula.
CALEDONIA RIVER TO SUCUBDI RIVER.
Locality.
On beaeli 0
Date.
Feb. 25
0
Mar.
*3
1
Feb.
25
2
Feb.
25
2
Mar.
3
3
Feb.
25
4
Feb.
25
5
Feb.
25
6
Feb.
25
7
Feb.
26
7
Mar.
3
8
Feb.
26
9
Feb.
26
10
Feb.
26
11
Feb.
27
11
Mar.
3
12
Feb.
27
13
Feb.
27
13
Feb.
27
14
Feb.
27
15
Feb.
27
16
Feb.
27
Time.
10. 45.
12. 45.
11. 45.
12. 40.
11.25.
3.11.
3.15.
3. 45.
4.17.
4.15.
5. 40.
5. 00.
c 8. 40
I 8. 45 5
c 10.25 }
110. 30 3
12.15.
12.15.
r 3.10 ^
I 3.15 5
3.10
15
c 8.15
110. 00
9. 05
9. 00
10. 20
10.30
11. 00
11. 30
i
c 10.20 ■>
110.30 5
12.15.
12. 25.
1.30.
Lower station.
c£
ce
• r-i
(-(
£
o
s
s
Ci
CO
t-
tH
Ph
®
-s
a
o
H
30.144
29. 957
30.131
30.128
29. 994
30. 050
30.052
30. 043
30. 04?
29. 986
29. 999
29. 960
29. 960
29. 888
29. 971
30. 002
29. 978
29. 958
29. 956
29. 943
29. 935
29. 904
u
©
®
O
ce
-m
<1
®
a
o
a
80.9
85.
81.9
83.9
85.
81.1
81.
80.
77.
81.
82.
84.2
85.
82.9
80.2
82.
81.
82.1
83.
84.9
85.4
85.
Detached ther¬
mometers.
Dry.
80.
85.
81.7
83.1
84.
80.2
80.
79.1
77.2
80.7
81.9
84.2
85.1
82.8
80.
81.5
82.
82.1
82.4
85.9
86.2
85.
"Wet.
Upper station.
a
CO
Η
75 rH
03 c_i
Tj <D
P <D
| a
® o
3 *
30.150
30. 064
30.123
30.110
30. 090
30. 044
40. 028
30. 018
30. 016
30. 052
30. 074
30. 022
30.000
29. 936
29.986
30. 032
29. 996
29.972
29.974
29.950
29. 926
29.882
h
®
_© •
^ ®
'd
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©
ce
+=>
<1
©
a
o
76.5
82.
80. 02
87.
92.5
83.6
81.7
81.5
77.5
81.
Detached ther¬
mometers.
83.1
86.
81.2
81.6
83.5
78.
83.
84.
85.5
81.4
83.5
Dry.
79.
81-
78.5
82.
85.
79.4
78.4
78.7
76.
80.
88.5 85.
"Wet.
80.5
80.7
80.5
79.6
80.7
77.
79.
80.
81.
78.
79.
Aneroid barom¬
eter 26252.
Attached ther¬
mometer.
30. 240
80.6
30.260
90.
30. 210
81.
30. 200
84.
30. 360
96.
30.150
86.
30.140
85.3
30.121
85.
30.100
80.
30.138
80.
30. 320
92.
30.190
92.
30.148
90.
30. 070
87.
30. 090
83.7
30. 240
87.
30. 050
79.8
30. 040
81.
30.060
84.
30. 040
85.
30. 000
82.
29. 970
82.5
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Feb. 25 + .006
Mar. 4—.099
Feb. 25+.106
Mar. 4—.099
Feb. 25+.006
Feb. 25+.006
Mar. 4—.099
Feb. 25—.006
Feb. 25+.006
Mar. 4—.099
Feb. 25+.006
Mar. 4—.099
+. 106
—. 099
+.006
—. 099
+.006
—. 099
+. 006
—. 099
+.006
—. 099
+. 006
—. 099
+.006
—. 099
+.006
—.099
+.006
—. 099
Mar. 6—. 095
—. 095
+.006
Elevation of cis¬
terns above—
Sea,
1732.
Ground,
1734.
} +5
_2.{
-2.{
+5
+5
—4.
—3.
—3.
+5
—2.
I+5
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—26.4
80.6
—15.7
118.5
—3.7
—8.7
—22.
10.3
17.4
192.7
16.2
119.5
23.9
128.3
—70.3
35.2
—99.7
49.2
—315. 8
36.6
—33.3
43.1
—69.5
39.2
—28.
81.6
—25.4
14.17
—36.
74.2
85.
75.6
—15.
89.9
—12.7
94.7
123.3
16
Mar. 3
17
Feb. 27
18
Feb. 27
18
Feb. 28
19
Feb. 27
20
Feb. 27
21
Feb. 27
22
Feb. 27
23
Feb. 28
24
Feb. 28
25
Feb. 28
26
Feb. 28
26
Mar. 1
26
Mar. 2
27
Mar. 1
28
Mar. 1
29
Mar. 1
30
Feb. 28
31
Mar. 1
32
Mar. 1
33
Mar. 1
34
Mar. 1
35
Mar. 1
36
Feb. 28
37
Feb. 28
37
Mar. 1
38
Mar. 1
39
Mar. 1 *
40
Mar. 1
41
Mar. 1
42
Mar. 1
42
Mar. 2
43
Mar. 2
{
z:\
C 3.18 1
I 3.15 3
C 9.35 )
I 9. 45,.... 3
8. 25
8.30
c 2.07
i 2.00
2. 30...
11. 00...
3. 00...
3. 00...
3.18
3.15
3. 45
9.35
9. 45
( 10.05 )
I 10. 00 3
10.30
11. 45
10. 30.
c 4. 47 >
I 5.00 3
5. 00
10. 45
11.15
2.30
4. 45
f 11. 44.
i 12.00.
12.15.
12. 45.
1.00.
5.00.
}
3.30.
c 4.00 )
i 4.30 3
{
1. 30
4.00
4.30
4.10
4. 40
4.20
4. 50
3.35
4. 00
3.05
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c 3.35 >
I 4.00 3
2.50.......
30.000
81.5
81.0
29. 876
85.
«o
00
29. 869
83.2
83.
29. 945
81.
85.
29. 876
85.4
85.4
29. 876
85.4
85.4
29. 872
84.
85.
29. 860
84.5
83.2
29. 960
81.
81.2
29. 954
84.4
83.5
29. 950
85.
84.
29. 945
84.5
85.
29.980
82.7
82.5
29, 890
85.5
84.5
29. 885
82.
81.
29. 885
82.2
87.
29.948
84.
83.5
29. 870
84.3
84.
29. 998
•
vH
QO
81.9
29.948
84.
83.5
29. 944
83.5
83.
29. 944
83.5
83.
29. 930
83.
83.
29. 872
81.
81.
29. 854
82.5
82.
29. 928
83.5
83.2
29. 995
82.2
79.2
29. 998
82.4
80.
29. 998
82.4
80.
29.889
83.5
83.
29.895
83.5
83.4
29. 900
85.5
85.2
29. 956
84.
83.
29. 976
81.0
78.6
29. 854
82.5
78.8
29. 850
82.5
79.
29. 934
88.
80.4
29. 826
79.5
78.
29. 800
80.3
78.
29.750
80.4
75.5
—.....
29.798"
79.6
77.6
79.
29. 922
77.
76.
80.
29. 924
77.7
77.2
81.5
29. 926
80.5
78.
80.
29.886
•
©
00
76.
78.
29. 916
77.5
76.8
•
QO
29.806
76.5
76.3
78. 5
79.
29. 830
77.8
77.3
79.9
29. 788
78.
78.
81.
29. 482
78.
77.
72.2
77.
79.
29.474
77.5
76.6
78.4
29. 326
77.
75.9
7a
29.254
76.5
75.6
79.
29.250
76.3
75.7
7a 4
29.150
76.
75.
79.
29.140
76.
75.
79.2
29.184
76.5
75.7
75.
•
75.
76.
•
©
CO
28.976,
76.
74.6
80.
28. 950
75.5
74.6
82.
28. 956
77.
75.
79.
29. 442
78.2
77.
76.2
76.2
77.
76.5
75.6
75.
76.
75.9
75.
74.3
75.
74.
74.
72.5
73.
73.5
73.
73.
73.
75.2
30. 200
29. 960
29. 941
30. 060
29. 900
29. 880
29. 840
29.880
30. 000
30.000
30. 010
29. 960
29.980
29. 960
29. 900
29. 920
29. 880
29. 560
29. 640
29. 500
29.420
29. 360
29. 340
29.260
29.200
29.270
29.320
29. 280
29. 240
29. 070
29.040
29.100
29. 540
* Williamson's Formula.
—.095
—.095
—.095
—.095
—.095
—.095
—. 095
—.095
.989
—.095
.945
—. 095
.946
.973
.934
—. 095
—.095
—.095
.930
—.095
.930
.890
.893
—. 095
—. 095
.872
—.095
.951
.913
.913
.868
—.095
—.095
—.095
—.095
.891
—. 095
.877
—.095
.912
—. 095
.912
—.095
.891
—. 095
.884
Mar. 4—. 095]
+5
—2.
116.8
-f-5
—1.
111.6
4-5
—1.
113.3
4-5
——X.
127.8
4-5
—X.
129.6
+ 5
—X.
156.5
+5
—X.
206.7
Summit of first bill.
4-5
—X.
143.3 4
Eainy Hollow, near stream.
4-5
—2.
121.2
4-5
—6.
102. 4
•
4-5
__
103.3
+5
—1.
151.4
Eainy Hollow, in front of camp.
4-5
—2.
152.8
4-5
—2.
152.4
4-5
—.
210.9
Calculated from Station 41 ; 920 feet= 1 in.
4-5
—1.
, 138.5
4-5
—
226.7
4-5
—1.
461.
First summit of mountain.
4-5
—
450.1
4-5
—1.
543.7
4-5
—1.
686.2
+5
—1.
757.5
4-5
4-5
—1.
—1.
747.6
792. 21
*788. 5 >
781. 8 >
Much moisture condensed under glass of
aneroid.
4-5
-M
Second summit of mountain.
4-5
-M
*817.3 '
809.9
+5
—
744.
Calculated from Station 41.
4-5
—
781.
Calculated from Station 41.
4-5
—
818.
Calculated from Station 41.
4-5
—i.
978.5
4-5
-M
*1,108. 8
1, 007. 8
4-5.
-M
(
*1, 018. 9
1, 007. 4
*622.
+5
-31
602.5
*476. 8
Height by spirit-level, 573.368 ft.; B.M. 29.
Height by aneroid, —, April 2,1870.
o
&
I
tel
m
m
1—4
Q
«
tr1
co
DARIEK SHIP-CAKAL.
CALEDONIA RIVER TO SUCUBDI RIVER.
From Station 43 returning to Station 42, (3,000 paces;) calculated from the height of Station 43; 1 inch=920 feet.
Station.
îsTo. paces from
Station 43.
Date.
Time.
Aneroid N o.
26252.
Attached ther¬
mometer.
Height ahove
; sea.
i
t
h.
o
Feet.
250
March 2
1.00
29. 560
86.
618.9
275
March 2
1.15
29. 580
84.
637.3
3..
450
March 2
1.25
29. 500
84.
563.7
4
75
March 2
1.30
29. 540
84.
600.5
5
150
March 2
1.34
29. 500
84.
563.7
6
150
March 2
1. 40
' 29.520
84.
582.1
7
475
March 2
1. 45
29. 420
84.
674.1
8
500
March 2
1. 50
29. 405
84. •
687.9
9.
125
March 2
1. 55
29. 460
84.
637.3
10
50
March 2
2. 00
29. 420
84.
674.1
11........................
100
March 2
2.10
29. 360
84.
739.3
12....
325
March 2
2.30
29.130
84.
950.9
REPORT
UPON
THE GEOLOGICAL FORMATION OF THE SASSARDI AND MORTI AND
SAN BLAS RODTES,
BY
3S. "W. BOWDITCH, ASSISTANT MINERALOGIST DARIEN EXPEDITION.
- 1870.
SASSARDI AND MORTI. (Plates XI and XII.)
Beginning at tlie beach, the initial formation is of very récent origin, purely coral. Follow¬
ing this np 200 or 300 feet, at times 500, it is replaced by a dark-brown loam which is, however,
still underlaid with coral or loose masses of coralline limestone. Here and there pebbles are found,
brought to the surface by the land-crabs that infest the region near the beach. On examination
these prove to be of metamorphic origin—either decomposing syenite or trap—probably brought
from the mountains in the rainy season, before all the alluvian deposit was formed.
A quarter of a mile from shore are beds of yellow and red clay. Several little knolls between
the beach and camp No. 1 are formed entirely of these clays. (The strata are horizontal, and
probably extend from the top to the bottom of the hillocks.) The material is soft, easily crumbled
between the fingers or cut with a knife, and the Indians cut pieces of the red clay into playthings
for their children and use the brightest colors as paints for themselves.
Just before reaching camp No. 1, (a mile and a quarter from the beach,) the soil changes again
to the dark loam, and so continues till a point is reached midway between camp No. 1 and the
Sassardi River, where clay again appears.
The first natural cross-section is at the first crossing of the Sassardi River, at the Upper Vil¬
lage, about half a mile below camp No. 2. The upper three feet is loam, with a few pebbles ; the
lower three feet gravel. This gravel is fine at the top and coarse at the bottom. It was impossible
at the time to find the rock-base underneath. The pebbles on examination turned out to be trap,
syenite, "black" conglomerate, and a trap similar to the copper trap of Lake Superior. Besides
these, chalcedony, epidote, calc spar, hornblende, and an inferior quality of jasper were met with.
Following the river up from this point to camp No. 2, the pebbles appeared similar to those
before found, with two exceptions—agates and copper-ore. The first agate of any size was found
about 100 feet below camp No. 2. At camp No. 2 a much-worn pebble of trappean conglomerate
was picked up and found to contain some fine specks of native copper, while the whole mass was
tinged with a cupreous green. From this point up stream to a point quarter of a mile above camp
No. 2, quite a number of agates were found and iron pyrites containing much silica. Here the
Indians stopped the mineralogy for a time and refused to let any more specimens be gathered.
They informed us also that those already collected must be thrown away, but this latter we utterly
refused to do. Though endeavoring to gather more specimens at every opportunity, none of im¬
portance were obtained until the Upper Sassardi Village was passed. (These same Indians after¬
wards stole the greater portion of the copper-ore from the cache at camp No. 3.)
152
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
On Cemetery Hill the clay beds are lying with upturned edges, showing the hill is composed
of some other material underneath.
The u Gorge," as it was named, is formed by a trap dike, having a strike of east-southeast and
west-northwest. This has been thrown up through the agate trap that forms the bases of-the hills.
The cooling surfaces were the sides of the dike. Iron was discovered in the edges of the dike,
though very much disseminated through the mass. This dike, being harder than the surrounding
rocks, has withstood the wearing action of the water much better than the remainder of the rocky
bed of the stream, and forms a small dam that the water falls over. Several large bowlders of
conglomerate and trap (from above) have caught on the upturned edges of the dike, and help to
form the Gorge.
Between the Gorge and camp No. 3 the top formation is black conglomerate. This has flowed
over the agate trap, covering it to a depth of a few inches. (It is called u black" conglomerate,
from its color, and in order to distinguish it from other conglomerates.) The agate trap shows
through the conglomerate here and there until camp No. 3 is reached.
At camp No. 3 are more small rapids, formed by the superior trap that crops out here for the first
time. It is full of small veins, that cross and recross each other in every direction. The analysis
of the vein-stone is as follows : quartz, epidote, and a few specks of arsenical iron pyrites. These
latter occur but seldom, though. The general course of these small veins is northeast and south¬
west. A search was made to see whether this belt (22 feet wide) contained anything of value.
After careful examination, we were rewarded by finding several fine specimens of native copper,
(afterward appropriated by the Sassardi Indians,) mixed with a little prehnite in addition to the
minerals mentioned in the analysis above.
The mountain opposite camp No. 3 is composed principally of agate trap. There are fine
agates in some of the gorges and on the trail over the top of the mountain. The hill at the back
of the camp is probably formed of the same material, but is covered over with the black con¬
glomerate and earth, so as to make its base invisible. The trap dike of the gorge is visible across
this hill.
Up the river to Great Forks nothing of importance was discovered. Two trap dikes, prob¬
ably thrown up at the same time as the one at the Gorge, are the only objects of interest. The
mountains on each side are very steep, covered with about a foot of clayey soil. Just below Great
Forks (junction of Asnati Fork) the black conglomerate again appears very distinctly. The bed
of the river is here about 100 feet wide, and formed of the conglomerate, the water running through
small channels it has worn. These channels are none of them over a foot or two deep. Here the
first large pot-holes occur. There are one or two in the gorge below camp No. 3, but the first large
one is just below the forks, three feet across and four or five deep. The bottom was full of small
pebbles, some few of which contained iron pyrites.
The " Forks" are formed by the junction of the Asnati branch with the main stream. At the
junction the Asnati fork has falls several feet high, the bed being formed of black conglomerate.
Two strata lying in nearly horizontal positions, as if they had flowed there in a liquid state.
The upper layer is divided from the lower by a thin stratum of pebbles. These are water-worn,
and probably some little time elapsed between the times of deposition of the two beds. The peb¬
bles are all of Plutonic character.
The Asnati branch was explored about two miles in order to get some idea of the country
through which it passes, though the trail went up the main river. It was found to be very similar
to the river between camp No. 3 and the forks. Pebbles of iron pyrites and arsenical pyrites were
found, and also fine bits of jasper, that were afterward lost by a rising of the river. The only
new formation seen was sandstone. This was lying in beds 10 or 15 feet thick at the point where
we left off the reconnaissance, (two miles from Great Forks,) upturned.
Returned and started up the main river. Within two hundred feet of the junction was found
another belt of the superior trap with native copper. There is much more here than at camp No.
3. The belt is about 100 feet wide. Just above this were found numerous veins of quartz with
iron pyrites.
Half a mile below camp No. 4 the river runs over the top of a trap dike. The ends of the
columns only are visible—-five-sided and wonderfully regular. This gives the bottom of the stream
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
153
a mosaic appearance that is beautiful. Some nice pebbles of epidote and hornblende were found
here.
Camp No. 4 is in a gorge formed of superior trap. Only axsmall portion of this (just above
the camp,) contains copper. Just above the camp is a trap dike, (course east-southeast and west-
northwest,) of a buff color, with small bits of copper here and there in the mass.
A quarter of a mile above camp No. 4 are thick beds of decomposing syenite, tilted up by trap.
The trap columns are just visible above the ground. They are quite small, not over four inches
in diameter. There are also thin beds of light-gray sandstone tilted by the same action.
Here and there between camps No. 4 and No. 5 the superior trap crops out, but without any
copper to speak of in it. The mountains on each side are very steep, and-are trappean without
exception. At a point a quarter of a mile below camp No. 5 the river forks. There was time to go
but a short distance up the left fork, and nothing was seen of importance on the branch except
one or two trap dikes, three or four feet thick, with the general course east-southeast and west-
northwest.
At camp No. 5 the river again branches. We went up both forks quite a distance; the left
one half a mile, until we came to falls, that we judged to be about 70 feet high. A quarter of a mile
above camp No. 5, on the right fork, is a vein containing a little native copper. Beyond this are
the falls of the Sassardi, 100 feet high, falling over superior trap. The stream is only a few feet
wide, and is really only a mountain torrent.
Between camp No. 5 and the Morti River the only formations met with, on the trail, are de¬
composing syenite and trap. Mount Sassardi and all the other hills between camp No. 5 and the
r
Morti are huge masses of trap covered with a few inches of soil. Their sides are very steep, and
neither of the first two peaks (Hubbard and Sassardi) has an area on its summit of over 20 or 30
square feet.
The Morti River was struck at a point where it is 110 feet wide Here we endeavored to ob¬
tain a few minerals, and with partial success. One small bit of amethystine quartz was found,
which, though poor, showed that probably where that came from there was more. The bed of the
stream was black conglomerate, overlying superior trap. The conglomerate was in places not
over a foot thick, while in others four or five feet.
Summary.—The Sassardi-Morti line is mineralogically of great interest. Though the line was
run quickly—too quickly, by far, for even a proper mineralogical reconnaissance—very interesting
and perhaps valuable results have been obtained. The copper-beds are probably of considerable-
value; their location is good, climate healthy, fine water-power, plenty of fuel, and only a few
miles from Caledonia Bay, where the largest ships can float.
In addition to the copper, iron pyrites, arsenical pyrites, epidote, agate, jasper, chalcedonic
quartz, common milky quartz, quartzite, black or basaltic conglomerate, trap, granite, coralline
limestone, and sandstone are perhaps the most interesting minerals met with.
MANDINGA-SAMGANDI.
Monday, May 9, 1870, the examination of the Mandinga-Samgandi line was begun. Between
the beach and camp No. 2 the formation is wholly of recent origin, composed of red clays with a
very few pebbles from the mountains above. These were either trap or granite, the latter con¬
taining, at times, small, imperfect garnets.
At camp No. 2 is the first natural cross-section that is anything besides red clay. Here about
four feet and a half of red clay is underlain by a foot of fine pebbles. Strata horizontal. The
pebbles are hornblende, three varieties of granite (epidotic, syenitic, and common micaceous) and
quartz. The only new one is epidotic granite, which was not met with, I think, on any of the Cal¬
edonian or Sassardi lines. In going up the trail between camps Nos. 2 and 3, several small bowlders
of trap are seen, varying in size from a foot to eighteen inches in diameter. Just below camp No.
3, and on the same side of the river, is the first mountain. It appears from its shape to be volcanic
and not merely earth. As no rock is visible it is difficult to ascertain its nature.
Opposite to camp No. 3 is the first natural cross-section of any importance—syenite. I was
unable to find out its exact course, but should judge northeast and southwest. Cleavage is perfect
H. Mis. 113 29
154
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
in at least five directions. On breaking it shows bits of iron pyrites, and in its cleavage planes thin
laminae of the same. In the river, at this point, are found crystals of quartz, epidote, (very small
and delicate,) and milky quartz, masses of epidote, hornblende, trap, granite, chalcedony, and
rough imperfect jaspers. Found one rock containing limonite—as an impurity, however.
The pebbles are nearly all of large size and much water-worn. Many, too, have the appear¬
ance of having come a great distance. No agates are found here as at Sassardi, nor copper nor
black conglomerate.
Up to this point no regular trap dikes are visible, though plenty of trap in masses, more or
less decomposed, and numerous pebbles of the same. Most of the pieces are well rounded. A
short distance beyond the donkey-trail crosses some steep u backbones v on the right. The clay
beds (with which they are covered) being all tilted, make me think the following would be a suit¬
able section.
A short distance above camp No. 3 (where the surveyed line first crosses the river above the
camp) I observed fine specimens of granite, epidote, and quartzite, (the former two frequently
mixed,) all from above, and a good deal water-worn. Nearly all of the specimens contain iron
pyrites.
Quarter of a mile above camp No. 3 (by the river) are three sections of disintegrating trap cuir-
eolored sandstone. The latter beds are tilted at an angle of about 30° 5 just above a black slate
appears, merely as pebbles, however.
Where the donkey-trail crosses the small brook, just below camp No. 4, a pebble of decom¬
posed granite was found. On following the brook up a few yards a large bed was found, so soft as
to be easily broken in pieces with the fingers. It contained veins (also decomposing) the material
of which is exceedingly similar to sand from the Manoni River. On analysis the interesting and
seemingly valuable materials turn out to be arsenical iron pyrites, yellow mica, and finely divided
shiny specks of quartz. About a quarter of a mile up the brook from where the trail crosses at
camp No. 4 is a section of the granite-bed, showing where either the granite was only partially
formed or where the decomposing action has in time changed the material from granite to merely
disintegrated quartz and feldspar. (Analysis.) This milky white bank was so soft and inviting
that a species of woodpecker had taken possession of it for building purposes.
About half a mile above camp No. 4 (by the surveyed line) are the falls of the Samgandi, 18
feet high. The bed of the stream here is trap-rock, with veins of epidote and iron pyrites. A
short distance above camp No. 4 on the donkey-trail is an outcropping of quartz, the first real
quartz outcrop seen by party No. 2 on the Atlantic slope.
REPORT
ON
THE GEOLOGY AND NATURAL HISTORY OF THE ISTHMUSES OF CHOCO,
OF DARIEN, AND OF PANAMA
3îY
TDIZ. Gr. CK,
GEOLOGIST AND NATURALIST OP THE U. S. DAIIIEN SURVEYING EXPEDITION.
18 7 2. •
*
(Plates I, in, V, IX, X.)
«
Sir : I have the honor to submit to you my report on the geology and natural history of the
Isthmuses of Choco, of Darien, and of Panama, which region has been explored by me, under your
command, in different directions, from the month of January till June, 1871. My results are
based upon my observations in the field and upon my geognostical, paleontological, and zoological
collections, which have been made Qn the Atlantic side as well as on the Pacific, and which are
preserved, according to a permission of the honorable Secretary of the Yavy, in the Museum of
Comparative Zoology at Cambridge, Massachusetts.
It is strange that comparatively so few trustworthy facts are known up to the present time,
about this country which I am going to describe, in spite of all its attractions, which have been
acknowledged for centuries by governments as well as by enterprising private persons. Our real
knowledge of all the surrounding countries is far greater than of this region. The natural features
of this territory are of a peculiar kind, which bring about a state of things opposed to human set¬
tlements in general and consequently to the progress of modern civilization in particular. We
have here the singular case of a large area of land lying not only between two progressive conti¬
nents of immense extension, but also at the most favorable place in the whole commercial world,
almost excluded up to the present moment from all intercourse with the civilized world.
The great object of our expedition was to find out in what way these natural obstacles can
be best overcome for making useful to the world not only the country itself by its various produc¬
tions, but far more for giving to the whole commercial world a free and sure water-passage from
ocean to ocean.
It is obvious that a most accurate knowledge of the nature of the country is of the greatest
importance in this respect. I shall therefore endeavor to give you the clearest view according to
facts collected by me.
Those parts of the three named provinces, Choco, Darien, and Panama, which came under my
direct observation and exploration are, on the Atlantic side, the Gulf of Darien del Korte, the
eastern Antioquian Mountains, the Atrato Yalley with its western mountainous boundary, the
Manzanillo Island at Aspinwall, and the whole region between Aspinwall and Panama,* on the
Pacific side, the different islands in the Bay of Panama, the Bay of Saint Miguel, or Gulf of Darien
del Sur, the country up the river Tuyra, and the Gupica Bay, with the Biver Napipi.
As this narrow strip of the western hemisphere forms that continental mass which links together
the broad northern part of South America with Central America, it will be necessary, for a better
understanding, to look for a few moments upon the general geological structure of South America.
We see there that a narrow mountain-chain commences at Cape Horn, which takes its course from
156
DABIEN SHIP-CANAL.
the first moment in a meridional direction, namely, from south to north, and which is growing
more and more in height and in breadth as it reaches Chili, Bolivia, Peru, and Ecuador. The
Cordillera is divided in this long run at certain points several times in two or three i^arallel chains,
which inclose the high table-lands of Chili, of Bolivia, of Peru, and of Quito, and send out some
smaller spurs landward; but the principal range of the Cordillera holds its way always near the
Pacific Ocean and falls off very steeply to the west, while the declivity to the east is very gradual
and long extended plains are formed. This general geological structure of the South-American
Andes is one of the most important of the causes that have a determining influence upon the devel¬
opment of the unorganized nature as well as upon that of all plants, animals, and even mankind.
In Europe and in Asia, where all larger mountain-chains, except very few, have just the opposite
direction from west to east, that is to say, the direction of the parallels, we find in consequence of
this the surface of the globe divided in several transverse sections, which possess for themselves
their own river system, their special geological as well as botanical, zoological, and finally also
ethnographical relations.
In South America we find the contrary ; the meridian direction and the very gradual descent
to the east have formed at this side large and extensive plains and rivers, the latter only separated
by comparatively low water-sheds. The distribution and the development of the same animals and
plants extend there over a large area, because the climatic and geological influences are of a uniform
character. The only cause, which has in this respect a more direct active influence, lies in the
general elevation above the level of the ocean and less in the configuration of this elevation.
The two principal mountain-chains of Ecuador join at Los Pastos under 1° north latitude, and
77° west longitude, where the Cordillera of New Granada commences. This is divided in three
chains, namely, in the Cordillera of Choco between the Pacific coast and the river Cauca, in the
Cordillera of Quindiu with the volcano of Tolima (17,200 feet high) between the river Cauca and
the river Magdalena, and in the eastern Cordillera with the high table-land of Santa Fé de Bogota,
(8,000 feet high.) The Cordillera of Choco is the lowest of these three chains; it runs northward
along the Pacific coast, the height decreases more and more in this course from over 8,000 feet to
5,000 feet near Popayan, and farther northward to less than 1,000 feet near Buenaventura. At
about this point, under 4° north latitude, the Cordillera bifurcates. One branch continues onward
near to the Pacific, while the other diverges eastward and runs in a northerly direction under the
name of Antioquian Mountains toward the Atlantic Ocean, till it terminates on the eastern side of
the Gulf of Darien. These two branches inclose a large oval space, which is divided under 5° north
latitude by small transversal spurs, thrown out from either branch, in two valleys, the smaller and
southern of which is that of the river San Juan, while the larger and northern valley belongs to
the famous river Atrato.
This western branch of the Cordillera of Choco maintains from its starting-point at first nearly
the same low height, but farther northward the elevation lessens again and the country gets more
of a hilly, broken appearance. This is the case especially at Cupica Bay, the external part of the
so-called Limon Bay, to which the mountains and several naked detached rocks directly approach.
These latter give to the whole bay a very circumscribed position, as well as a bold and beautiful
aspect. The Limon Biver, with some smaller streams, flow into this bay. A fine, smooth, sandy
beach, deepening very gradually from the shore outwards, extends in a semicircular shape along
the border of the mountains. The waves of the Pacific break in long continuous lines of surf
against the beach, but make the landing not difficult for an experienced seaman ; where, however,
the detached rocks stand, there the heavy billows are broken into foam, which is dashed upwards
into clouds of spray.
After having landed in the Limon Bay, and.walked over the smooth sandy beach, which is
crowded by thousands of the so-called " hermit-crab," (Pagnrus,) carrying at the back a commodious
shell as its house, into which the head and the claws can be drawn, we gaze upon a most imposing
spectacle. Bowlders of every size and shape, crusted with shells and other sea-animals, lie around ;
the rocky wall is deeply undermined at several places by the high tidal-waves, and grottos have
been formed ; the mountains are thickly wooded everywhere to their very tops with the
most luxuriant vegetation ; fine pure river-water pours into the Limon Bay from several directions,
so that, in one word, everything is lovely and inviting for an explorer.
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
157
Examining more closely the mineralogical composition of the rock, we find at first that the
prevailing colors vary from darkish green to yellowish red, that the rock is almost everywhere
on the outside in a state of decomposition, and that it is comparatively not difficult to split, with
a hammer, this rocky mass in several pieces, which are somewhat regular accordiug to a certain
pseudo-clevage.
If we examine with a good magnifying-glass the internal structure of the rock, we recognize
that its mineralogical constituents are principally hornblende and Oligoclas feldspar. But, as the
texture of the rock is often a fine crystalline one, it is indeed sometimes hardly possible to find out,
even with a magnifying-glass, the different mineralogical constituents. In this case a chemical
analysis is necessary. All such rocks, besides some others, the mineralogical composition of which
can hardly be discovered without a chemical analysis, are called very often in this country by the
general Swedish name "Trap." But what is trap-rock? Let me quote what two first-class
English geologists said, already years ago, about trap. Mr. Maceulloch says, in his System of
Geology, 1831, II, p. 106: "The term trap has been applied to so many substances, indiscrimi¬
nately, from ignorance of their mineral Character, or to save the trouble of investigation, that I
have no scruple in rejecting a word which, while it is the cloak for ignorance, perpetuates it."
Mr. Haughton says, in the London, etc., Philadelphia Magazine, (4,) vol. 13, 1857, p. 117 :
" It would be very desirable that an investigation were made into the composition of the different
varieties of the vast and heterogeneous family of trap-rock; the nomenclature of this class of
rocks is a reproach to geological science."
This name trap is not, therefore, of any use to geology. Scientifically we must make distinctions,
because the so-called trap-rocks are not only of very different geological ages, but possess also
many different qualities and different mineralogical constituents.
Concerning the rock of the Cupica Bay, it may be stated first, that these green-colored rocks
belong to the later eruptive rocks, and that their arising does not fall in that geological period
when the older primitive rocks, as granite, syenite, diorite, diabas, melaphyr, were upheaved. The
rocks of the Cupica Bay are evidently of a more recent origin. Although they have in many
respects some resemblances with the older diorite or greenstone, I should say that these hills at
the Cupica Bay, consist principally of what is called in the petrography " hornblende-andesite."
The color and the structure of this rock vary very much, but, nevertheless, it is possible, after a
careful examination of several different specimens, to find out some general characteristic qualities
that are common to all. The darkish green color, caused by very small particles of hornblende,
which are intimately blended with the other materials, is the prevailing one; little pores filled
with minute crystals, are found sometimes in the crystalline variety, and also thin veins of quartz.
We may distinguish one variety in which hornblende and feldspar form crystals of nearly the same
size, in a darkish green or darkish grayish matrix; another in which the hornblende forms only
crystals, while the feldspar is mixed up with'the matrix; another in which the reverse is the case,
and only feldspar crystals can be seen ; and another in which the whole rock is so homogeneous
that neither crystals of hornblende nor of feldspar can be recognized. The effect of the air upon
this rock is different, according to its texture. Fine granulated masses resist this disintegrating
influence longer and better than those which have a slate or porphyric structure. The final result
of this disintegration is a red-yellow clay, which contains a large quantity of oxidized iron. It
may be mentioned that no strata of the so-called " tufas," a conglomerate which abounds around
Panama, have been found by me at the Cupica Bay.
These mountains of the Limon Bay, striking in a northeasterly direction, rise almost abruptly
from the shore, and an old Indian trail crosses the crest of the hills and mountain-ridges. After a
walk of about half an hour, the path descended, and we passed the Limon River, the bottom of
which is filled with pebbles and bowlders of every size and shape. All these water-worn rocks
have a dark-green color, and are very smooth and shiny. They are very hard and it is almost impos¬
sible to split them with a common hammer. The structure is a very fine crystalline one, and it seems
as if the pure river water, which runs continually over them, protects these rocks against the dis¬
integrating influence of the humid air. But those rocks which come out from the side banks are
easier to split, on account of the decomposition. This decomposition has gone sometimes even so
far that regular layers of red-yellow clay, in various stages of induration, have been formed, which
158
DAEIEN SHIP-CANAL.
as an alluvial product covers almost everywhere the surface of this country. This yellow clay
becomes, during the rainy season, very slippery, and makes the walking over these steep hills rather
difficult. I found at several places deposits of a grayish-blue clay underlying the red-yellow
clay, which is used by the natives for making pipes and pottery. Sedimentary deposits inclosing
fossils were not found by me at the Limon Bay, but I have no doubt that Tertiary strata and alluvial
clay overlie the crystalline rock.
The Indian trail ascends again from the Limon Biver ; the most gorgeous vegetation grows denser
and denser; the entrance of light and air through these forests has to struggle more and more with
difficulty; not a movement or a sound from any animal is heard, so that, finally, profound silence,
in the strictest sense of the word, is the prevailing character of this region. At the time when I
was at the top of the divide, 612 feet high, I endeavored to survey the country, but the dense
foliage prevented me in every direction from obtaining a true picture of the topographical features
of this country. This want of an elevated summit above the neighboring country is indeed, for an
explorer, one of the greatest obstacles through the whole Isthmus ; especially as the means which
are at his disposition in such explorations do not suffice for removing these difficulties. Our real
knowledge of the topographical character of the interior of the Isthmus will therefore always be
an imperfect one, as long as practical enterprises do not sweep the obstacles away. What there
may be hidden in those deep valleys and ravines we do not know. At present we can only guess
and judge after other parts in the world which had to undergo the same process. Let us only keep
in our mind that a good deal of our present geological and paleontological knowledge has been
acquired in consequence of great practical enterprises. How comparatively small, for instance,
was our real knowledge of the geology of the Alps even thirty years ago, although those mountain-
chains lie in the middle of Europe, and had been traversed several times by emperors with thousands
of soldiers. But when the practical, enterprising spirit took possession of them for making them use¬
ful to the commercial world, a fund of mysteries was brought to the light and a great many false ideas
cleared away from the human mind. Who may venture to predict what will be the results if the
interior of the Isthmus is opened by such an enterprising spirit ?
After having passed the divide the Indian path leads downward to the river Napipi, the bot¬
tom of which is, like the Limon Biver, stony and filled with pebbles and bowlders of various sizes,
in consequence of which many rapids have been formed. The trail crosses the river several times
and guides us some distance further on to an elevated plateau, the vegetation of which is indeed
very luxuriant and beautiful. Numerous ferns and palms are found. Some of the latter have
grown in such a regular way as to form almost a long palm-avenue, which reminded me imme¬
diately of the celebrated palm-avenue in the botanical garden of Bio de Janeiro. This table land
is about three miles long, is very healthy and well suited for human settlements. The trail goes
over this plateau and strikes hills about 80 feet high. The geological character of the rock does
not change, and is so far the same as on the Pacific side. In going over the table-land I found
here and there some flints. Following the trail the so-called " Bancho Grande v is met with after
some hours. It lies about 250 feet above the level of the ocean, and is about half way between the
divide and the Atrato. The natives have built there, as the name implies, a comparatively large
hut, using it as a stopping-place during their travel through this country. At this point the
Napipi begins to become navigable for canoes, although the river still contains big bowlders at
some places, and consequently several rapids. The country has for some miles further on, that is
to say, for about thirteen miles from the dividing ridge, a broken and mountainous character.
About twenty-five miles from the Pacific the Dogado Biver flows into the Napipi, and the country
assumes a flat appearance. Beds of gravel and of clay form the river-banks, till finally the levees
become lower and lower, and are composed principally of soft mud, leaves, and logs like those of
the Atrato ; this latter part is exposed to freshets. The Napipi sends its waters in a very crooked
course of more than sixty miles into the Atrato, this large artery of the Isthmus of Choco, with
which it joins, having a width of about 1,000 feet in latitude 6° 35' north, and 135 miles from the
Gulf of Darien, and the height of the Atrato above mean tide is 11 feet.
We came by this way into the Atrato Yalley, which is a great alluvial plain extending a length
of one hundred and seventy miles, and having an average width of from sixty to seventy miles.
Through this valley, rich in natural scenery of the greatest beauty and attraction, the Atrato, or
DAEIEN SHIP-CANAL.
159
Eio Grande de San Juan, as it was called by the Spaniards, winds still and deep its tortuous way
along the center of the valley for its whole length in an almost direct northerly course. Prom the
east and the west large and small tributaries pour northward in this great artery, and make it
impossible for the banks to reach for the last sixty miles near the mouth^of the Atrato hardly
a height which would be suitable for human settlements. This region is mostly submerged during
nine months, and deep and widespread lagoons, the so-çalled "cienaga," or "cenagal," have been
formed on either side. The river banks, the result of the daily decomposition of the mountains,
are abrupt, and the river affords plenty of water for the largest ships.
Below the most recent deposits, which consist of swamps of deep mud, layers of firm clay and
vegetable mold are found. These overlie with varying thickness, from a few inches to several
feet, the gold-bearing clay and gravel which are washed by the natives at several places. This
gold is derived from veins of the Cordillera of Cauca, which is, as is known, rich in mines of gold
and of platina. No rocks of any kind exist either in the river or in the valley. Only one small,
low elevation is met with on the right, where the tributary stream Leon enters into the Atrato.
This little hill is called by the natives u El Tuinarador." I had no opportunity of examining it
more closely, but it seemed as if it was only an accumulation of disintegrated material brought
down to this point by the Leon as well as by the Atrato. Many sand-bars make the entrance into
the mouth of the Atrato at present very difficult even for canoes and bungos, and impossible for sea¬
going vessels ; but beyond these sand-bars, which consist of alluvial deposits, and which are the re¬
sult of the opposing action between the river current of the Atrato and the current of the eastern
rivers as well as of the Atlantic.Ocean, the so-called canos, or arms, thirteen in number, acquire
very soon a considerable width and depth, and are deep enough for larger vessels. Indeed, every one
will be surprised after having passed through the cano Coquito, at its entrance only 30 feet wide, to
find there a river, as it really is, surrounded by the most luxuriant vegetation, and abounding in
animal life, which seems far more like an ocean than a river. Passing along its tortuous course, and
seeing that only few small bungos enliven at present its vast surface, nobody can fail to be convinced
that this Atrato Biver should be more useful to the world, and that consequently human enter¬
prise must find the proper ways and means for bringing about this result. Far more should this
be the case, as the Atrato branches off through thirteen canos, all alike in their natural configura¬
tion, but differing in length, breadth, and depth, into the Gulf of Darien del Norte, or Uraba, one
of the finest and largest harbors in the world. Nobody can deny this latter assertion, so very im¬
portant for the commercial world ; but, notwithstanding, this natural harbor has been but little
used since the time when Spain sent out courageous and enterprising men to conquer new con¬
tinents for her. The gulf is well protected by the Isla de los Muertos against the winter winds, is
free from reefs, so frequent-in other Atlantic harbors, possesses a good anchorage, and is deep
enough at all times for the largest vessels. Open beaches do not exist along the borders of this
gulf, in which it differs from many other bays on the Atlantic. This is the result of its tidal move¬
ments. The equatorial current of the ocean runs through the middle of the gulf almost for its
whole length, and is forced backward by all those small and large streams which enter into the
gulf from every side. Mangroves and other species of a delta vegetation grow directly at the edge
of the water around the whole gulf, and help in many respects to the formation of the sand-bars.
At its eastern end the gulf forms a little bay, which is protected by a point of land called ce Sandy
Point,?? and which serves as a safe harbor for all those boats engaged in the caoutchouc business
between Cartagena and Turbo and some other places along the Atrato.
This village of Turbo or Pisisi lies about two or three feet above high-water mark of this little
bay, and has at present a regular population of a few hundred inhabitants of mixed descent. In
some months, namely, from February till May, when the caoutchouc business is flourishing, there
are more people at this place, who are scattered, for the most part, in all directions along those
different streams which flow into the Gulf of Darien. But as soon as the rainy season sets in the
people return to their homes, sell the collected product to the agents from Cartagena, and lead their
life in the old customary native way, secluded more or less from the whole civilized world. Indeed,
it is very strange that this settlement, on the spot of a wonderful harbor and so near Cartagena,
Aspinwall, and all other commercial places on the Caribbean Sea, could preserve in our enteprising
and progressing times its retiredness, and live as if the outside world did not exist for it. Turbo is
160
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
surrounded by backwoods full of heavy timber. As it is the only place on the Darien Gulf from
which the eastern country can be properly explored, I made it for some weeks my headquarters. I
made large collections of all the different animals ; the vegetable kingdom offered me a large field
for study and observation, and the geology of this region was of the greatest interest, although
the rocks with their clay-layers were of the same geognostical character as those of the region
described above. One fact, however, may become in future time of great importance for this
country, namely, the existence of coal at several places. The coal I brought home is from the
surface of a river-bottom and burns very well ; it is evidently Tertiary coal. I found, also, amber.
The hydrographical system of these eastern mountains is generally not so well known as that of
the western Cordillera. I engaged, therefore, as my guide, one of the oldest residents of Turbo,
who for more than fifteen years has been acquainted with all the larger and smaller streams.
From my knowledge of the Spanish language I was able to understand him, and to get from him
all the names of the various streams which the people of that country give them, and also the
direction of the roads through the forests. Of course, as the names of the small streams, not
known to everybody, are given sometimes inconsequence of some accident, it happens that the
names are various or that one stream is called by two names. I endeavored to get as much infor¬
mation as possible about this matter, but I cannot take the responsibility for the absolute correct¬
ness of the annexed map, in which those different places are pointed out where coal has been
found, partly exposed in the river-bed, partly in detached masses.
These coal-layers, covered by a fine green-colored clay, belong evidently to the Tertiary for¬
mation, which seems to extend not only along the eastern side of the Gulf of Uraba, but far
higher up, to Cartagena. During our stay at Cartagena I devoted several days to geological excur¬
sions, and found the Tertiary formation fully developed in that neighborhood. On the eastern
side of the town, where the hills San Felipe and Santa Maria de la Popa have their place, the
latter, about 500 feet high, with an old convent at its top, the strata abound in fossil corals,
especially of the genus Meandrina. I found also several Tertiary sea-urchins and shells.
I have no doubt that these Tertiary beds on the Atlantic are of the same geological age as
those which extend along the whole Brazilian coast downwards to Rio Grande del Sud, and further
south up the river Parana and down the coast of the Argentine Republic and of Patagonia. I had
opportunity during the years 1867 and 1868 to examine these regions.
I met at Turbo some Indians, who had come, for a visit, from the village of Paya, on the Pacific
slope. This proves that these people are in a regular intercourse by means of long, narrow boats
called " champan 77 on the Atlantic, and u piragua77 on [the Pacific. Indeed, I found at the lomas
of the Cacarica several caoutcheros, who travel every year through the swamps and over the
mountains to Paya. It may be mentioned here that the Paya Indians "are a peaceable people, and
that they live in friendly relations with the mixed population. They are by no means hostile to a
stranger, and differ in this respect widely from the notorious San Bias Indians.
The lomas of the Cacarica Lake form the lowest range of the western Cordillera, which
strikes in three parallel ranges like a terrace, now high, now lower, from the east to the west. As
it is so rare in the Isthmus region to find an elevated point from which it is possible to survey a
larger portion of the country, I climbed up to the top of these hills. I had the satisfaction to see
the whole Atrato Yalley, with all its swamps and bushes, clearly spread out before my eyes, which
aspect could nor fail to make the deepest impression upon me. Indeed, standing at this elevated
position it was easy to understand the whole geological development of this Atrato Yalley by the
many rivers and streams, coming down either from the eastern or from the western Cordillera, and
pouring all their water, as well as their contents of fine, decomposed rock-material, into the great
artery, the Atrato. This detritus will, of course, remain at first near the water-surface, but
will sink finally to the river-bottom, which process of accumulation will go on much faster if
an opposing ocean-current meets with the river-current. This was here the case in past time,
and the same causes are at work at present in forming the sand-bars at the mouth of the Atrato.
The resulting conclusion is, therefore, that the whole Atrato Yalley, with nearly the whole river-
basin and with the Gulf of Uraba, is geologically nothing more than a great estuary, which was
once in the possession of the Atlantic Ocean, the waves of which washed at that time the very
base of the Cordilleras.
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
161
The rock of the Cacariea is different in its structure and in its whole appearance from that of
the Limon Bay, although the mineralogical constituents seem to be the same as those of the Oupica
Bay rock. The geological character of the Cordillera has changed in its height and in the whole
orographical structure. This mountainous system forms several parallel ranges and sends out
from the main range transverse ridges, which inclose deep valleys. The rock is almost everywhere
in a state of disintegration far greater than was the case at the Cupica Bay, and renders it very
difficult to determine its true petrographical nature. The rock has at some places a soft, sandy
texture, at others the slate-like structure prevails, or it shows through the whole mass so many
different colors, the result of its decomposition, that it has lost perfectly its stony character. I
found in the interior of the forests, through which I walked in company of two caoutcheros in
different directions, some large bowlders, the internal structure of which had not much suffered by
the decomposing air and water action, although nothing is protected in these wet regions against
this powerful agent. The texture is crystalline, the mineralogical constituents are; mixed very
intimately. It splits in uneven pieces, the surface has a rough appearance, and reminds me of a
trachytic rock I found later between Panama and Rio Grande Station ; yet I could not identify
them. I believe this rock is a variety of that near the Limon Bay and forms a transition to those
trachydolerite rocks which are found northward of the Gulf of San Miguel oq the Pacific Ocean.
Different varieties of quartz, as for instance hotustone, jasper, chalcedon, agate, are very fre¬
quently met with in this region on the Atlantic as well as on the Pacific. It seems, after all, that the
Cordillera represents in this latitude a distinct mountainous system differing from the southern
ranges as well as from those toward the northeast but joining both by its transitional petrograph¬
ical character.
In regard to the direction of the southern ranges along the Pacific coast it may be added that the
mountainous ranges of the Cupica Bay hold their course northward from the bay for the first few
miles near the Pacific ; several detached rocks follow the coast in a parallel line and make the land¬
ing at this port rather dangerous on account of the heavy surf. But after having passed the bold
rocky Punta Marzo, the coast changes its appearance ) flat, sandy beaches come in sight, and the
Cordillera disappearing in greater distance from the shore takes a more direct northerly course.
This is the so-called Humboldt Bay, circumscribed by the Punta Ardita in the north and by the
Punta Marzo in the south, an extent of about thirty miles. At the first glance of this region, one
would believe that it would be quite easy to cross here the Cordillera, and that this part of the
Isthmus would be the proper place for an interoceanic canal. But it has been shown by the United
States survey that the depression of the Cordillera is not quite so low as it appears at first, and
that the summit reaches a height of about 900 feet.
Following this long extended beach, a rare phenomenon on the Pacific, we come to Punta
Turado, and thence to Punta Ardita, where we see also several detached rocks. Looking from
this point landward and observing the course of the main range of the Cordillera, it seems as if the
latter forms there a very complicated center from which several ranges spread like a fan, northward
as well as southward. This supposition makes it clear that one mountainous range approaches
behind Punta Ardita to the Pacific, while the other, taking a direct northeasterly course, forms the
western boundary of the Atrato Yalley and approaches northward of the mouth of the Atrato
toward the Atlantic. Between these two ranges is situated the great western river-system of the
Tuyra, which represents on this side the eastern Atrato. The Pacific coast has behind Punta
Ardita again a bold and mountainous appearance ) the height of the Cordillera varies, I should
judge, between 3,000 and 4,000 feet ; hardly any beaches exist, and Puerto Piilas is the only harbor
which is able to shelter a vessel. This spectacle lasts till we reach Punta Garachine, the southern
promontory of the Gulf of San Miguel or del Darien del Sur. After having passed this point the
coast changes again its appearance and forms a low swampy ground, full of mangroves, of low
water-palms and the like, while the mountains fade in the background. The bay is full of small
islands and of detached rocks till we have passed through Boca Chica or Boca Grande and safely
anchored on the opimsite side of Chipigana, in the Darien harbor. At Chipigana and some dis¬
tance higher up, we find that on both sides rocky masses, covered with green-colored clay, dip
gradually toward the river, having for the most part a slate-like structure and being in a state of
disintegration. I found varieties of the common quartz, as flint, horn stone, jasper, on both sides.
H. Mis. 113 21
162
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL
The rocks of the surrounding hills vary in their color and in their general external appearance. I
found specimens which showed a resemblance to those of Cupica Bay and also some which were
more like those of the Cacarica region. The Cordillera seems to form in this latitude, as I mentioned
already above, a mountainous range of a transitional character in its petrographical structure.
Chipigana, a village of few hundred inhabitants, engaged especially in the caoutchouc and
tagua (ivory-nut) business, lies at the foot of some hills inclosing it perfectly, and presenting a
semicircular shape ; it possesses only one principal street, the houses are much pressed together,
and a want of good, fresh air and of clean water in the village is what a stranger feels immedi¬
ately. During the day-time the air is very sultry and oppressive ; there is not then a breeze stir¬
ring, and the hammock is the only place in which any one feels comfortable. In the evening, when
the high tide sets in, in consequence of which the water gets a yellow color, a fresh sea-breeze blows
from the Pacific. It is, indeed, very refreshing and interesting to sit at this time upon the top
of one of those hills near the river, and to look down upon its broad and tortuous course.
Everybody will feèl then, more or less, that the Tuyra Biver should have a larger use by the com¬
mercial world than it really has. Commercial and industrial enterprise and progress have not
spread out their arms over this region ; the whole country is almost unchanged since the time of
the Spaniards. Small schooners come up with the high tide from Panama, bring provisions, clothing,
and other things necessary for the daily life, and take back to Panama the products of the country,
especially caoutchouc. The high tide, which rules there the whole navigation, rises to Pinogana,
the last village on the Tuyra; but the river-schooners cannot go up to this place on account of several
bars in the river. Santa Maria del Beal, the first Spanish settlement on the Tuyra, is the last point
for these schooners. Prom there the cargo is brought up to Pinogana in the so-called " piragua."
Sometimes these piraguas form a long line, and the regular stroke, with the accompanying exclama¬
tions, make a curious impression upon a stranger, and may remind him of a regatta at an American
watering-place. Some miles behind Chipigana the country has the appearance of a low, swampy
ground, which is densely wooded near to the river-banks by mangroves and the like. The moun¬
tainous ranges take their course far off in the background. The Tuyra flows through this region in
long, undulating, regular windings, and has for many miles always a considerable depth and breadth.
If we looked only upon one of these windings, we might believe it to be a lake. As the tide rules
everything, we must, leave Chipigana for going upward as soon as it is felt. I left early in the
morning, about 2 o'clock, in a piragua, with three natives for boatmen, and I arrived at Santa
Maria about noon. A few miles before this latter pl^ce we pass the "Alligator Island," so called
because this island abounds in these hideous reptiles. Indeed, once at noon, when the sun sent
down its bright rays upon this sandy river island, I saw at least a dozen of them, from 10 to 15
feet long, lying at first quiet upon the sandy border, but afterward, opening their broad, deep jaws,
they walked slowly into the river. At this place the Cordillera presents in the background a most
splendid view; we see very clearly in the distance how these mountainous ranges take their curved
course from the east to the west. Borne distance higher up we pass the mouth of the Chuquenaqua.
The river-banks are of little height till near to Santa Maria, and consist of red clay; but at
Santa Maria they rise to some 20 or 30 feet, and form a plain, level land, upon which this old
Spanish village has been built.
The landing is not quite agreeable, especially if it has rained and the clayish soil has become
slippery for walking. This place made a poor impression upon me, and the people seem to be very
lazy and idle. I walked from here over an old path through the forests, first to Molineca and after¬
ward to Pinogana. The river-banks rise in height, and at Molineca the height was about 40 feet.
The path runs from here at first near the river, but goes later deeper in the woods and guides us
finally to Pinogana. I walked the whole distance at a moderate rate, stopped about half an
hour at Molineca, and it took me about three hours from Santa Maria to Pinogana. The sur¬
face of the country is of an undulating character and is covered by red clay. I found no rocks
but only some scattered varieties of the common quartz. Pinogana is the last village on the Tuyra
Biver, has about the same number of inhabitants as Chipigana, but its situation is far pleasanter
and healthier than this latter place. The houses are scattered over a comparatively large plain, the
river-water is good for drinking as well as for bathing, a breeze stirs almost every day and makes
DARIEK SHIP-OAK AL.
163
the stay there more agreeable than below at Ohipigana. In going higher up the Tuyra from Pino-
gana we see that the first .winding, or u calle," (i. e., street,) as the natives call .generally these
windings, is very long and little curved. We meet, for about the first hour, either on one bank
or the other some huts (ranchos) surrounded by banana and eana plantations ; but afterwards
this little sign of culture ceases, and our eyes and mind have henceforth, only to deal with the
most virginal nature. The whole character of the country undergoes a change ; the river shows
more and more its true descent by the mass of fallen trees, which lie around scattered in all
directions over its bed, and render it sometimes not only very difficult even for a small piragua
to pass through or over these natural barricades, but create also turbulent rapids, which can
be mastered only by the skillful arms of a native boatman. The breadth of the river dimin¬
ishes slowly and the country acquires a more hilly appearance. After a pull of about two hours
from Pinogana I saw the first rocky masses coming out near the river-banks and falling off almost
abruptly. I stopped some distance higher up, where a kind of rocky plaza had been formed ; I
found there bowlders of various sizes which were very water-worn, and had on the outside a
darkish-green color. I tried to split them with my hammer, and was at first surprised at their
hardness ; but after examining the fresh inner surface I saw, to my far greater surprise, that the
whole mass was thoroughly filled with very small marine shells. Of course I examined, after this,
many other bowlders, as well as the rocks in the background, and found that I had to deal every¬
where with the later Tertiary formation. Higher up the Tuyra, where several hills approach the
river-banks, this formation shows a great development, and is rich in shells, which, unfortunately,
break very easily in the sandy, clayish strata. But after all I succeeded in getting some well-pre¬
served fossils, which prove, by their marine character, that this whole region was submerged by
the Pacific Ocean till the upheaval of the later Tertiary beds. We can distinguish there one hori¬
zon of a green-grayish, sandy clay, and another of a yellow sandy clay ; the latter lies above, while
the former holds the lower position. Both are covered at some places by an alluvial layer of small
pebbles varying in its thickness from 1 foot to 3 or 4- feet, held together by a ferruginous sand. These
two strata do not occur always together, and their horizontal position is often very much disturbed,
the layers are broken up, and stratified masses filled with fossils are turned over in different direc¬
tions; this is, for instance, the case near the mouth of the tributary river Paca. Kobody can see
this phenomenon without getting an idea of the powerful force by which this region has been up¬
heaved and made a natural barrier against the waves of the two oceans. This Tertiary formation
seems to have a vast extent and to spread over the dividing ridge, the lowest elevation of which
was found to be 763 feet. Already, years ago, an English geologist, Mr. I. C. Moore, who has ex¬
amined several collections from Tertiary beds in San Domingo, made the observation that many of
these shells bear a strong resemblance to shells now living in the Indian seas and the Pacific, and
that one or two appear to be identical. (Quart. Jour. Geol. Soe., 1853, p. 131.) These facts lead us
to the conclusion that the Atlantic and the Pacific mingled their waters still during the first
period of the Tertiary era, and that their present separation is the result partly of an eruption of
crystalline rocks and partly of the disintegration of these rocks by air and water action. We have
seen already how actively these decomposing agents, air and water, do their work on the Atlantic
side, we may fully state that their activity is not less on the Pacific slope. This is shown by the large
quantity of pebbles, which fill the river-bottom and create the very turbulent rapids, and the sev¬
eral stony playas along the upper course of the Tuyra, as well as by the various islands in the river,
the foundation of which has been laid by the results of such a decomposing action. The pebbles
vary very much in their color, are much water-worn, and have for the most part a diameter of half
a foot or less. Larger masses of pure quartz, jasper, and chalcedon intermingle with the others*
If navigation along the Tuyra, in consequence of these many rapids, on the one hand is
by no means easy and without trouble, I must confess on the other that this country of the upper
Tuyra, with its vegetable and animal life (these latter not quite so gorgeous and rich in variety as
on the Atlantic side) conveyed the impression of more beauty and peacefulness than I had
ever experienced in my life. It was the commencement of April, the rainy season had not
yet set in, and a fine azure sky, reminding me of Italy, spanning this whole region, as I pro¬
gressed up the Tuyra with my three natives of Pinogana. The Cordillera looms up clearer and
clearer as we ascend, and shows the most curious, as well as the most influential, change of its
164
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
course, namely, the direction to northeast. We have seen before that the main bulk of the Cordillera,
along its whole course through South America, runs near the western coast, while only compara¬
tively small spurs took their course to the east ; we saw, further, that a compact mountainous system
runs through the southern provinces of New Granada to the Gulf of San Miguel. But from this
latitude the features change ; the main bulk of the Cordillera is turned away from the western
coast and transferred near the Atlantic, and approaches at several places boldly and abruptly the
sea, while the country on the Pacific in this latitude acquires a hilly, broken, flat appearance, and
forms savannas. We notice in this region of the Isthmus the strange hydrographical fact, that
the whole river-system on the Pacific is far superior to that of the Atlantic. In South and North
America we see the contrary everywhere else. All rivers which flow into the Atlantic are of very
considerable breadth and depth, and are, in consequence of their navigableness, of great importance
to the commercial world, while those which send their waters to the Pacific are hardly spoken of.
But in this part of the Western Hemisphere the contrary is the case, and it cannot fail that this
fact must be very influential upon the whole organized w7orld.
Leaving the Gulf of San Miguel, and passing around Punta Lorenzo, and later Punta Bravo,
northward, the mouth of the river Chepo, or Bayano, with the island Chepillo some distance off in
the sea, is met with. The Isthmus has there its greatest narrowness, only 27' of a degree of latitftde,
and has consequently this long time attracted the attention of the whole geographical and com¬
mercial world for joining both oceans. As the Atlantic side possesses in this latitude a well-pro¬
tected harbor in the Gulf of San Bias, several expeditions, commencing their work on the Pacific
as well as on the Atlantic, have endeavored to find a practicable route through this region. But
all expenses and hardships were in vain, because this Cordillera, the continuation of those parallel
mountain-ranges near the Cacarica, rises evidently in this part of the Isthmus to its highest eleva¬
tion of several thousand feet, and makes it impracticable if not impossible to make use of this region
for an interoceanic canal-junction, in spite of different natural advantages.
Following the coast we see that the so-called savannas or llanos, a natural grass-land, gain
more and more in extent, the Cordillera takes its course farther off landward, and the country
acquires a hilly, broken appearance as we come nearer Panama. Many islands, of different sizes,
come in sight, and remind us of the eruptive activity which must have taken place at the Panama
Bay in past geological time. A kind of riff, as it is usually called, falls off from the main land into
the ocean for an extent of about half a mile, and hinders the landing even of the small schooners
near the city, while all the larger vessels take their anchorage near the islands Perico and Flamenco^
about two and a half miles from the shore. Examining this riff more closely, we discover that it is
not a riff in the proper sense, but a deposit of a regular stratification . It is a stratified conglomerate
of a red color, and contains evidently a large quantity of oxydized iron. Its principal constituents
are fragmentsof older crystalline rocks, as granite, syenite, and porphyry, which vary in their largeness
and are imbedded in a cement of ferruginous clay. This stratified conglomerate extends over a
large area in the neighborhood of Panama, and occurs also at the islands of Flamenco, Perico, San
José, and Taboga. The city of Panama, stands upon this conglomerate. My search after fossils
was in vain; for this reason I am not able to judge with certainty its geological age; but if I
remember, of what I have seen in Europe of similar strata, I should say that this red deposit repre¬
sents the oldest sedimentary formation of the Isthmus, and belongs to the geological period of the
so-called uNew Bed Sandstone" of the Permian system. This stratified conglomerate, which strikes
from east-northeast to west-southwest, and dips under an angle of about 15° from west to east, has
been upheaved by the eruptive rocks, which have formed the different islands in the bay, and the
pyramidical cerros landward. This crystalline rock belongs to what is called in the petrography
u trachyteand has been uplifted at a later period than that rock of the Cupica Bay. The main
constituents of trachyte are two different feldspar species, namely, sanidin and oligoklas, and horn¬
blende. They have very often such an arrangement as to give to the whole rock a porphyrin
appearance.
For getting a full view over the Bay of Panama with its several islands, as well as over the
surrounding country landward, it is necessary to ascend the Cerro Ancon, near the city, which has
a height of about 500 feet. Standing at its top our mind will immediately conceive that this
country has been formed by a great many eruptions, and that it was hardly possible that during
1)ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
165
such a stormy period animal and vegetable life could be preserved in the sedimentary strata. This
may be the reason why the stratified conglomerates near Panama do not contain any fossils. In
spite of this eruptive origin all these trachytic cones do not possess the slightest sign of a crater
or of lava masses, as is the case with the present volcanoes. But we find always together with
these trachytic rocks large stratified deposits of a so-called trachyte-tufa, which varies much in its
color from grayish-white to brownish or to reddish, and has mostly an earthy structure. These
facts seem to prove that the ocean covered these tufa-strata during the eruption of the trachyte, and
that the sea was removed by and by from its old possession. That this removal of the sea has
continued till the present time, in consequence of which new land has been formed, can be seen if
we examine the savanna land from the foot of the Cerro Ancon to the playa of Panama, a few
feet below its surface. We discovered there immense accumulations of different shells, imbedded
in the sandy soils, which are still living in the sea. Some Of the native inhabitants have made a
business of it to dig out large heaps of these shells, to burn them, and to sell the lime to the gas-
manufactory of Panama. The same is the case in some places along the Rio Grande River. I found
the same species of shells near Rio Grande Station, and also at the top of some of the surrounding
hills. It may be mentioned that, especially after a rain-fall, small particles of quicksilver are found
in the darkish sand of the playa Preita ; I brought back a small glass-full. In going along the
road from Panama to Rio Grande Station I saw at several places, a little off the railroad-track,
rocky masses, which were very water-worn and just like those which are to be seen upon the playas
near Panama. All these facts show us that the Rio Grande Yalley was covered by the sea com¬
paratively a short time ago. At present the Pacific water reaches only at high tide any distance
up the Rio Grande. The tufa-strata are found well developed between Panama and Rio Grande
Station; but their thickness varies very much, from a few inches to several feet. They do
not contain any fossils; they strike from east-northeast to west-southwest and fall off under an
angle of 34° from northwest to southeast. Different kinds of jasper and of agate are found near
the Rio Grande Station. We find also along the track between Panama and Rio Grande Station
bowlders of various sizes, which do not belong to the proper trachyte, but form by their petro-
graphical character a transition to those dolerites which are met with more landward. We may
therefore call it trachydolerite. Its general character is, that bright crystals of feldspar, of horn¬
blende,'sometimes also of augite and magnetic iron, are imbedded in a fine granulated matrix of dark¬
ish, grayish, or reddish color. This kind of rock is found more frequently behind Rio Grande Sta¬
tion toward Paraiso, where the trachydolerite has very often a porphyritic structure. As we ap¬
proach Paraiso the character of the different cerros changes in the general appearance as well as
in the arrangement one to another. If we take the trouble to get a road cut by some natives with
their machete to a higher point of one of the surrounding cerros we wfill enjoy indeed a wonderful
view of the whole deep valley, and understand why the natives call this part of the Isthmus
u Paraiso," that is the paradise. Hardly any part of the world can be more beautiful in any respect,
and give to the observing naturalist a better idea of the great work which nature has performed
in past geological time. In regard to the general arrangement of the cerros, we see that several spurs
branch off from the main cerros, which have a circular or semicircular position one to another, and
that these mountainous spurs unite these latter, in consequence of 'which deep valleys are formed.
The rock of these cerros is what is called in the petrography u dolerite" or u basaltic greenstone,"
and contains as mineralogical constituents labradorite-feldspar, augite, and magnetic iron ; the more
the latter two constituents prevail in the rock the darker is its color. Such rocks are found in large
quantity between Paraiso and the summit ; at the summit itself, w7hieh has at present a height of
263 feet, in consequence of a cut of 24 feet in an actual elevation of 287 feet, we find a rock of
dark color, which resembles very much the genuine basalt. But the want of olivin, a green-colored
mineral, which always and everywhere occurs in a true basalt, forbids us to determine the
rock of the summikas basalt ; it is dolerite, which has also very often, like the basalt, a columnar
shape. This rock shows at some places of the summit transitions to the trachydolerite, which latter
rock is again met with in going down to Empire Station. We see also along this road strata of
the so-called tufa formation, which seems to extend through the whole Obispo Yalley; this latter
is separated by the summit from the Rio Grande Yalley. Between the summit and Empire Station
a trachydoleritic conglomerate is met with, which contains in its hollows many fine white crystals
166
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL
of a mineral which belongs to the so-called mesotype. Nearer the Empire Station limestone deposits,
of considerable hardness and filled with fossil shells are encountered. Unfortunately these latter
are baked together so intimately by the hard limestone as to make it impossible to split with the
hammer a well-preserved specimen out of the rock. This renders it difficult to determine the geo¬
logical age of these sedimentary limestone deposits ; but after a careful examination and compari¬
son with those Tertiary strata near the Atlantic, I have reached the conclusion that they represent
the oldest sedimentary strata on the Atlantic side. Another kind of limestone, filled with shells
of the microscopic foraminifera, is found in the banks of the river Obispo and in the upper part of
the Chagres Valley. The color of this limestone varies from grayish-white to cinnabar-red, accord¬
ing to the quantity of oxydized iron it contains. Fossil corals have also been found in this region
of the Isthmus; they reminded me in their whole state of preservation of those which I found
near Cartagena, in the Tertiary beds of the La Popa. The river Obispo, especially the so-called
Obispo Falls, are rich in all the different varieties of quartz, as jasper, agate, amethyst.
A short distance behind Obispo Station we enter into the oval valley of Matachin, surrounded
by several cerros of considerable height. This valley, with its trachytic and doleritic cerros, is for
a naturalist a very interesting place. We are here nearly in the middle of the Isthmus ; we feel
and breathe another air than that of the Pacific slope, and the whole vegetable and animal life tell
us that the nature of this region is different from what we have seen on the Pacific side. We feel
consequently a stimulation to get a more detailed insight in the orographical features which is the
cause of all these changes. The ascent of one of the higher cerros, for instance, of Cerro Grande,
about 900 feet high, will satisfy our wish in this respect, and bring before our eyes a most wonder¬
ful spectacle. We observe then that these different cerros, the position of which will make at first
a somewhat confused impression upon an observer, have an arrangement with respect to each other
which is very well defined. Every cerro has a round form, which is marked out more or less
clearly. Spurs of various lengths and shapes run off the main cerro and join, by these means, one cerro
with another, inclosing deep valleys. Ail the cerros together form a circle, which is open more or less
at different points of its circumference. We see, for instance, toward the north how the river
Chagres, which arises far off in the Cordillera of San Bias, takes its course through the opening
of the valley between Cerro Pelado and Cerros de Pisa, and is forced henceforth by several other
cerros to change its southern course toward the Pacific and to turn its waters in a northwesterly
direction into the Caribbean Sea. This, is indeed, one of the most instructive examples we can
find for getting an idea of the importance of the geognostical structure for a country. Geognosy
is, indeed, generally the basis of those natural features on which all other phenomena and produc¬
tions in vegetable and animal life depend. The playa of the Chagres Biver at Matachin is very
large, and the older crystalline pebbles, as granite and syenite, we can find there, tell us that the
high, elevated San Bias Cordillera, from which these granitic stones have been driven down by
the river current, is of an older geological age than the cerros of the Isthmus of Panama.
Following the course of the Chagres Biver, we come first to the village of Gorgona, this
ancient place where for a very long time the wet and weary Californian travelers made their quar¬
ters for the night. At present Qorgona is almost forgotten, and travelers take no more note of it.
Although the soil is good for settlements, but few natives seem to like this place. After Gorgona
we reach Mamey, where the Chagres Kiver forms also a large playa, full of all kinds of pebbles of
trachyte, traehydolerite, granite, limestone, and quartz. The petrographical character of the crystal¬
line rock does not change; it is for the most part trachyte, which has very often a porphyric structure,
while the doleritic cerros begin already to disappear more and more. This geognostical change
comes clearer to sight when we have reached San Pablo Station, near Barbacoas, where the banks
of the Chagres Biver are united by a huge wrought-iron bridge 625 feet in length, 18 feet in
breadth, and standing 40 feet above the surface of the water. A short distance before San Pablo
we see two large quarries, the material of which has been used in former times for railroad build¬
ing purposes. It is a stratified breccia of various thickness, which strikes from north-northeast
to south-southwest, and dips under an average angle of about 18° from south to north. It is a
characteristic of these strata to have imbedded in a hard clayish matrix of grayish-white or
brownish color, larger sharp-angled fragments of a green-colored feldspar, which has a soft earthy
texture. These strata are evidently the result of decomposed trachytic rocks. These conglom-
DAEIEN SHIP-CAÏTAL.
167
erates have near the Chagres Bridge on thé right bank a sandstone-like structure. I observed
there some dikes of flint ; their strike is here the same as before on the left bank near the station.
Similar kinds of such more or less stratified conglomerates, tufas, or breccias are found all the way
to Bohio Soldado, where a very large quarry is still always in working condition for the railroad
company. It is a breccia of considerable hardness and used for many building and other purposes
at Aspinwall. The strata are of great thickness and almost in a horizontal position. Their strike
is the same as those strata of Barbacoas. Leaving Bohio Soldado Station we enter upon a swampy,
alluvial plain ; rocks or stratified deposits are not to be seen till we come near Tiger Hill, where
younger Tertiary deposits of a trachytic tufa of grayish color are met with. Once a quarry was
there in work ; but small particles of gold were discovered in these strata, and as the workingmen
turned their whole attention to search for this metal the railroad company was led to stop the
workinthis quarry. This Tertiary tufa-formation, which does not contain any fossils, is very well
developed at Tiger Hill and extends the whole way to Gatun. On the opposite side of this village
we find in the so-called Sierra Quebrancha another Tertiary deposit, which is full of fossil shells of
the families Turitella, Cassis, Oliva, Conus, Peeten, Cardium, &c., all living up to the present time in
both oceans. Although these fossil shells are very fragile, I succeeded after a stay of ten days at
this place to make a large collection of well-preserved specimens. This is the latest Tertiary
deposit of the Isthmus, which has been upheaved above the level of the ocean evidently very
slowly, because its horizontal position is very little disturbed. I found the same strata at the
banks of the river Mindi and at Monkey Hill. At the latter place these Tertiary beds are well
developed and full of fish-teeth and shells. The island Manzanillo, two-thirds of which consists
almost of low, swampy ground, is formed principally by fragments of corals and of shells, the
species of which are just like those of the Caribbean Sea.
This is a general geological description of those parts of the Isthmus which came under my
observation during our expedition. As the geognostical structure of a country is the key for un¬
derstanding the distribution of its vegetable and animal life, we are now prepared to examine first
the vegetation of the Isthmus. But before I do this, I shall recapitulate in few words the princi¬
pal results which have been gained by the geological examination of the Isthmus.
1. We have seen that the Cordillera delos Andes changes its general character in the province
of Choco ; while it strikes through the whole of South America in a meridian direction, its general
bearingls there in a direction of the parallels. This strike is preserved through the whole Isthmus,
and causes its curved form and the sudden contraction of the continental mass.
2. We have seen that the height of the Isthmus mountains is much less than that of the South
American Cordillera, and that it decreases, especially, between Panama and Aspinwall, where the
whole orographical character of the Isthmus undergoes a great change. We saw, also, that the
mountainous system near the Limon Bay, in the province of Choco, has a geological character dif¬
ferent from that of the Tuyra and of the Chuquenaque, in the province of Darien, and that this
again differs from that between Panama and Aspinwall. Consequently the whole Isthmus Cordil¬
lera consists of three systems, different one from another.
3. We have seen that the Isthmus Cordillera does not possess in general high table-lands of so
large an extension as those which are frequently encountered in the South American Cordillera
as well as in Central America, namely, the high table-lands of Peru, of Costa Eica, of Guatemala,
of Mexico, &c. This is a very important fact, if we bear in mind that these high table-lands on
the western slope make it alone possible for a white man to work with endurance and the proper
enterprising spirit in the tropics, and to cultivate with success all those various products which
create the tropical commerce. This orographical fact, properly understood and applied, is the key
for an explanation of great many things in the past history of South America, of the Isthmus, and
of Central America. The history of the two great decayed empires of the Incas and of the Aztecs,
as well as the deeds of the adventurous Spaniards, all of whom have left us everywhere in the
various ruins signs of their enterprising and courageous spirit, becomes only intelligible if we take
proper account of the geognostical structure of those regions.
4. We have learned that paleontological proofs are preserved in the Tertiary strata of the Tuyra
Eiver, on the Pacific slope, on the one hand, and in the Tertiary deposits from Empire Station to
Monkey Hill, on the Atlantic, on the other hand, which show us that at least two channels, one
168
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
between the Gulf of San Miguel, or of Darien ciel Sur, and the Gulf of Uraba, or Darien del Norte,
the other between Panama and Aspinwall, existed up to the later Tertiary period, by which both
oceans mingled their waters. This fact is important for an understanding of the geographical dis¬
tribution of the present vegetable and animal life.
5. We have learned that the upheaval of the Pacific Cordillera belongs to the later eruptive
period, and that its rocks belong to the petrographical families of the trachyte and of the basalt ;
and, further, that the San Bias Cordillera, on the Atlantic side, belongs to an older geological
period, and that it is composed of the older crystalline rocks, namely, of granite, syenite, diorite. The.
northern Atlantic slope was consequently already upheaved and in a state of tranquillity when the
waters of the South Sea still covered the whole area which forms at present the Pacific slope. If
we take account also of the constant disintegrating effect of the northeastern trade-wind, saturated
with the moisture of the Caribbean Sea, we will understand how it was possible that the rocks of
the Atlantic slope could so greatly be decomposed, and furnish by and by the material of a fertile
soil, which had the power to produce a most gorgeous vegetation. Indeed, wherever on the
Atlantic slope we turn our eyes, we will witness an exuberant abundance of various plants r
As long as we are near the coast the vegetation has generally an aquatic character. Lacustric
palms, mangle-trees (Bhizophora mangle, Linn.,) Avicennia nitida, Jacq., cocoa-palms, (Cocos nucifera,)
plants of the families Convolvulaceœ and Leguminosœ, are the principal forms. Tfre poisonous
manzanillo tree (Hippamone mancinella, Linn.,) is common near Aspinwall, but occurs also near
Panama. The Graminœ family is well represented, and we see, especially along the Atrato and
its tributaries for many miles, a species of high grass which is called by the natives 44gram-
alote.77 This tall grass, together with another water-plant which has the vernacular name 44 taba-
quillo,77 covers a large area of the low land along the Atrato, and for the most part in such abun¬
dance as to make the impression of a firm soil 5 but this is a deception. They can be traversed in
a native champan without much difficulty, although the grass is a little stiff during the dry season,
and renders it more difficult to push through the canoes with the long forked poles. As soon as
the soil gets a little more consistence, some other species of plants begin to appear, especially a
great variety of palms. Among these is one species, the curved trunk of which will attract very
soon our attention. It is Manicaria raccifera, Gaers., which occurs also in the low lands of the Ama-
zonas ; its spatha, a large leaf in the shape of a bag, is used by the natives as a kind of cap, or
even for other clothing. The families Gannaceœ and Musaceœ are also well represented. Members
of the latter are the well-known bananas, (Musa sapientum,) and the platanos, ( M usa para disiaca, )
called also 44 tisang.77 Large plantations of them are at present cultivated at several places of the
Isthmus with great success, especially near Monkey Hill. Every steamer which leaves Aspinwall
contains a heavy load of these tropical fruits for New York. As profitable as the export trade of
bananas is for an industrious and enterprising man, as little it encourages the energy and the
industry of a native, who finds in its fruits, by very little labor, food enough all the year round for
the whole family. There is on the Isthmus a species of palm, the egg-like fruit of which, having
an orange color, furnishes to the natives an important food after having been boiled or roasted.
We see this palm along the whole road from Monkey Hill till near Panama. Its trunk is
slender and full of long spines. One of the most imposing palm sceneries we can see on the Isth¬
mus lies between Monkey Hill and Lion Hill ; it is made up principally of stemless palms, their
fronds having a considerable height and perimeter, which are used by the natives for cover,
ing the roofs of their huts, The natives call the one kind 44 pangana,77 and the other 44 noli.7'
The latter furnishes the palm-oil. In going up to the Peranchita, a tributary of the Royo,
which flows into the Cacarica, I had to pass with my champan for about an hour through a
forest of pangana-palms. Another useful palm, without a trunk, is that species, JElephantusia
macrocarpa, Willd., which furnishes the well-known 44ivory-nut,77 or 44tagua,77 of the natives. It
occurs on the Atlantic side as well as 011 the Pacific. The inhabitants of Turbo, as well as of
Cupica, were largely engaged in tagua business. There are many other plants on the Isthmus -,
the practical value of them is at present very little accounted of5 for instance, the sugar-cane, (Sac-
charum officinarum,) the sassaparille, (Smilaoc,) the fibrous plants of the Bromeliaceœ, different species
of pine, which contain a hard wood and much resin, the different varieties of red-ivood, the cedar,
and many others. One plant of the Isthmus, however, has excited by its beautifulness for centu-
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
169
ries the admiration of everybody who has seen it, namely, the so-called uflor del espiritu santo," or
u the flower of the Holy GhostP It belongs to the family of Orchideœ, and has the botanical name
Peristeria alata, Hook. This plant grows parasitically, especially in the low marshy grounds
between Lion Hill and Bohio Soldado, upon decayed logs and in crevices of rocks. There are,
undoubtedly, many places of the Isthmus where cotton, rice, tobacco, Indian corn, and cacao,
could be cultivated upon a large scale with success, if only hands were enough to do it. Especially
may this be said from the high lands on the Tuyra and on the Napipi.
As we progress and come nearer the interior of the country the vegetation presents a more and
more gorgeous and luxuriant spectacle, till we are finally in the middle of the true tropical forest sur¬
rounded by an impressive silence, which surpasses every imagination and can only be realized by
experience. There we are indeed in a territory where nature alone, untouched and uninfluenced by
human work, displays its laws, and where a naturalist will find of course a rich field for observa¬
tion. We feel, therefore, the inability of our pen to express by words what we have seen and wit¬
nessed in reality. Great high trees, as for instance the espavé, (Ehinocarpus excelsa, Bert.,) the so-
called lano or trementino, which is remarkable for the curious form of its trunk, deeply ribbed, about
20 feet in height, the so-called ceiba-tree, (Eriodendron anfraetuosum, Dec.,) the cedar, the India-
rubber tree, (Siphonia elastica,) the juice of which furnishes to commerce the important article
" caoutchouc," different species of palms, of the families Halvaceœ, Mimoseœ, Filices, which latter
family embraces the beautiful and various ferns, surround us at every step. But this is not all;
a lot of creepers of smaller and larger size, with the many species of the various shaped and
colored Orchideœ family, interweave the foliages and branches of all the trees so densely as to
exclude almost every beam of light. It occurs not seldom that Gothic arches are formed by such
a junction, and every one who observes with attention such a natural architectonic work will
find himself somewhat limited in his judgment. Man becomes conscious of the majesty of nature
and feels depressed before such a work, in which luxuriant abundance is combined with the utmost
regularity. Natural sceneries of this kind came in great variety before my eyes on the Atlantic
slope, as well as on the Pacific, especially in the region of the upper Tuyra and between Gatun and
Barbacoas, where, I should say, the Isthmus flora is developed in its most imposing grandeur.
This spectacle continues almost to Mamei ; but after having passed the village of Gorgona, where
the palma real (Oreodoxa regia, Huinb.) grows, the flora begins to show a different aspect just in the
same degree as the orographical features change and new kinds of rock appear. The humidity of the
air is somewhat less and the soil is less clayey and cannot retain so much humidity as the tufa-strata
near the Atlantic ; consequently the forests possess no longer that exuberant luxuriance by which they
are characterized nearer the Atlantic. Species came in sight which were not seen before, and it was
especially one tree with beautiful flowers which there attracted my attention. It is Sterculia car-
thagenensis, Jacq., of the family Buttneriacew, to which the cacao-tree (Theohroma cacao) belongs.
This change of vegetable growth becomes more evident near Matachin, where the less density of
the woods allows the existence of such plants, which need more light and a little drier soil
for their full development than they could find nearer the Atlantic. The neighborhood of Mata¬
chin is rich in different species of palms, of ferns, of shrubs, of bushes, and of grasses, which tell us
that a change in the physical condition begins to take place. . This transitional state, in which the
new distinctive character of the flora has not yet been fully developed, exists almost until we have
reached the Rio Grande Yalley. There the southern Isthmus flora is distinctly marked, and forms
which had between the summit and Paraiso Hill always a more subordinate character, find there
their full development and give to the whole landscape a different appearance from what we have
seen before. The low elevation of the summit is the cause that this change of the vegetable char¬
acter is not fully marked out immediately after having entered into the Pacific region. The meteo¬
rological influences of rain, of moisture, of wind, &c., all very important for the growth and the
distribution of plants, are of little difference on both sides of the divide in this latitude, while
the Cordillera has lost its character of high parallel mountainous ranges which it possesses in the
Isthmuses of San Bias and of Darien. The general character of this southern Isthmus flora,
in comparison with that of the northern slope is, that such plants as require for their devel¬
opment a moist climate and little light, for instance the palms, the ferns, the Musaceœ, the Aroideœ,
H. Mis. 113 22
170
DAKIEN SHIP-CANAL,
the Scitamineœ, the Cannaceœ gradually disappear, while all kinds of shrubs, of bushes, and of
grasses, various members of the different families Leguminosœ, Malvaceae, Verbenaceœ, Buttneriaceœ,
Gramineœ, which need light and a drier soil and climate, appear in great variety. The bamboo,
(Bambusa arnndinacea,) a high, tree-like grass, occurs in abundance at several places of the Kio
Grande Valley. The reason why we find in this savanna region, which extends, as I mentioned
already above, along the whole coast of Central America, so few high and big trees and a far less
luxuriant vegetation than on the Atlantic side is, besides the difference of the climatic influences,
principally the thin layer of vegetable mold, the result of the rotting of the plants as well as of
the decomposition of the rocks. As we come nearer the ocean the vegetation undergoes again for
the third time a remarkable change. The influence of the salt water in producing a flora more or
less like that of the Atlantic coast here becomes evident. The cocoa-palm, ( Cocos nucifera, Linn.,)
the mangle-tree, (Rkizophora mangle, Linn.,) the manzanillo-tree, (Hippomane mancinella, Linn.,) the
creeping Ipomoea per caprce, Sev., Avicennia nitida, Jacq., Grescentia ciieiirbitina, Linn., are all the
same plants which we have met with at the Atlantic coast, so that we may conclude that the lit¬
toral flora of the Isthmus is more or less the same on both shores.
It is evident that these resemblances of the vegetation on the coast of both oceans must influ¬
ence the animal life on both sides. Although several species occur only on either the Pacific or on
the Atlantic, the fact cannot be denied, since well-preserved specimens of vertebrata and inverte-
brata have been carefully collected on both shores, as well as in the different rivers and valleys,
that the fauna of the Isthmus is far less different on the two sides than at any other latitude.
But these specific resemblances go often so far that we can find a satisfactory explanation for it
only in the past geological history of this region, which gives us the key to understand the distri¬
bution and the development of its vegetable and animal life.
Coming from the Atlantic shore, where reef-building corals are one of the first things our eyes
encounter, we shall be surprised to find none of them on the Pacific coast. I found at the Cupica
Bay only specimens of the genus Pontes. What the cause of this phenomenon is I am not prepared
to explain ; but I have no doubt that the many eruptions in the later Tertiary period on the Pacific
slope have something to do with this phenomenon, and perhaps also the great difference of some 20
feet between high and low water mark on this coast, while it is on the Atlantic coast only 2 or 3
feet. One fact, however, may be recalled to our mind, namely, that fossil corals similar to those
of the Atlantic coast have been found in the Obispo Valley, near the summit. Who can predict
that fossil corals will not be found even on the Pacific slope, if the dense vegetation should be
cleared away and the soil be more opened to an observer ? Another interesting fact is, that ac¬
cording to Mr. Duncan, who published in 1863 a paper on the fossil corals of the West Indian
Islands, (Quart. Jour. Geol. Soc., XIX, 1863, p. 455,) only a very limited series of these fossil
corals have a generic relation to those now existing and characteristic of the West Indian coral
fauna, but that the greater part of them resemble those of the present coral-seas of the Pacific,
South Sea, and the Indian Ocean.
The playas of the Panama Bay are of a sandy character, and afford at low tide a very agreeable
and entertaining walk. Different crabs run in all directions, and we see here and there, almost wholly
imbedded in the sand, a special kind, of sea-urchin, which is very flat and has the form of aidate.
The zoological name for it is Scutella. I collected a large series of them at the Panama Bay and at
the Cupica Bay. I collected at Panama all kinds of sea-animals I could get during my stay,
Radiata as well as Mollusca, Articulata and fishes; I brought home from the interior of the Isthmus
a large collection of snakes, of lizards, of frogs, of turtles, some fresh-water fishes, some hundred
stuffed and skinned birds and mammals, besides many alcoholic specimens. I obtained the whole
skeleton or the skull of several vertebrates; I brought home, for instance, five skulls of the manati
from the Cacarica region. All the material I brought back to Cambridge was packed up in thirty
cases ; twenty of them contained the zoological collection, while the other ten were filled with
geognostical and paleontological specimens. My time has not yet allowed me, since my return to
Cambridge, to make a detailed examination of all these various zoological specimens. I have been
able to arrange them only so far as to secure their preservation. If, therefore, I must abstain from
a detailed description of my zoological collection, I may, nevertheless, give you some outlines of
the zoology of the Isthmus.
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
171
In general the animal life is more developed on the Atlantic side than on the Pacific. The
forests of the Atlantic are full of different monkey species, and the loud cry of the roaring
monkey, monocolorado of the natives, (Mycetes seniculns, L.,) is heard everywhere. Another species
of the same genus is Myc. beelzebul, L., which is seen almost tame sometimes in the houses of the
natives. I saw a good specimen of it at Obispo Station, and in the house of the German consul at
Aspinwall. Besides these some other genera are represented at the Isthmus, namely, Ateles, Geoff.,
Cebus, Erscl., Tithecia, Desm., and Callithrix, Erscl. The latter is found more frequently in the less
denser forests of the Pacific. The so-called caritablanca of the natives belongs to the genus Cebus ;
this monkey is very entertaining, and common in the houses of the natives ; its cry is like that of a
weeping child ; for this reason it has the English name " weeper." I obtained specimens of several
monkeys, and have preserved them in alcohol. Bats are frequently met with during the night and
I collected about a dozen at Turbo as well as at Panama. Members of the larger cats, as the
jaguar, (Felis onca, L.,) the pardel-cat, (Fells par dalis, L.,) are encountered very rarely even in the
middle of the forests. I have seen during the whole journey only one, a jaguar, or, as it is usually
called, " tiger ; " it was between Buenavista and Bohio Soldado, near the railway. I came to within
about twelve paces of it, but as soon as the animal saw me it ran away. It seems that these larger
cats are very shy and cowardly, and prefer the most concealed life in the very middle of the forests.
I obtained two tiger-skins and one skull. The gnawing animals have several representatives at the
Isthmus ; but as these animals are active mostly during the night, and live in the day-time usually
in holes or in hollow logs, it is a rare accident to see them in daylight. Members of this group,
which has the zoological name "Bodentia," are the squirrel, (Sciurus, L.,) the water-hog, (Eydrochœrus
capybara, L.,) the so-called aguti or guagua of the natives, (Dasyprocta aguti, L.,) the genera
Eabrothrix, Calomys, Loncheres, a small kind of hare, (Lepas, L.,) and the rats, (Mus decumanus, Pall.,
and Mus rattus, L.) My collection contains several specimens of this group. Another group of
mammals which has some representatives at the Isthmus is the order "Edentata? To this the
ant-e^teY'(Myrmecophaga jubata, L.) and the sloth (Bradypuspallidas,Wagn.) belong. I brought back
two specimens of the ant-eater and one of the sloth. The latter was a female specimen. I made a
dissection of it and found it pregnant. All the internal organs are preserved in alcohol. I found
in its stomach many intestinal worms, which have been preserved in alcohol. One fact may be
mentioned here which shows the influence of the vertical geognostical structure upon the distribu¬
tion of animals. As slow and as idle as the sloth is in all its movements in comparison with all
other animals, nevertheless I saw specimens in the eastern and western forests of the Atrato Yalley
on the Atlantic as well as in those of the Tuyra region on the Pacific. This fact proves that the
divide of the Isthmus-Cordillera does not form any obstacle against the distribution of land-animals,
as is the case in South America, where the sloth is also met with in the forests of Brazil and of
Guayana, but not at the western side of the Andes. This is the reason wrhy we find on both sides
of the Isthmus-Cordillera almost the same land-animals, mammals as well as birds, reptiles, insects,
Crustacea, and land-shells. Some birds, however, live in a very limited area, as the most trustworthy
persons told me who are acquainted for many years with those regions. The order PacJiydermata
is represented by a tapir species different from that in South America. It lives especially in the
low lands between Gatun and Obispo Station. I saw one young living specimen at Empire Station
which had been caught near Gatun. Its meat is highly valued by the natives. Another member
of this order is the so-called- sajino of the natives, or pécari, (Dicotyles torquatus, C.) This animal is
seen most frequently of all, and usually in larger numbers than others. Its meat forms a common
dish for the natives. I obtained a large series of skulls of this animal. The order Buminantia is
represented by only one genus, Cervus, with two species, which are distinguished by their different
sizes. I saw several tame specimens at Empire Station, and brought back one skin from Turbo.
The order Cetacea has two representatives at the Isthmus, namely, on the Atlantic the so-called
manati, (Manatus americanus, Cuv.,) and on the Pacific a whale-species, (Balaena, L.) The manati
is frequently caught by the natives in the Atrato and in the Cacarica. Its meat is highly prized by
the natives, and I had the pleasure, during my stay at the Cacarica hills, to partake with some
caoutcheros of such a manati dinner. I obtained five skulls of this animal.
The birds of the Isthmus are rich in their plumage and most frequently seen either in the
neighborhood of some huts or at the less denser parts of the forests. Without going into details
172
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
it may be said that the low swampy grounds of the Atlantic side are enlivened especially by differ¬
ent herons, (Ardea,) jassanas, (Parra jacana,) snipes, (Scolopax, L.,) sandpipers, (Tringakingfishers,
(Alcedo,) Cormorans (Phalaerocorax,) by a bird in its size like a wild turkey, which has the zoolog¬
ical name Palamedea, L. Pelicans are seen here and there sitting quietly upon an old tree, but
occur on the Atlantic coast in numbers far less than on the Pacific near Panama, where they have
their real home. The Bay of Panama is much richer in fishes, the proper food of the pelicans,
than the Gulf of Darien. This is expressed by this Indian word " panama," which means a place rich
in fishes. Besides these the genera Falco, Bchst., St limits, L., Gassicus, C., Icterus, Briss., Oriolus,
L., have their representatives in the lower region of both sides. Great many species of humming¬
birds (TrochiliiSj L.) are also met with on both sides. As we approach neffrer the denser forests
the bird-life seems almost to end ; we may walk many days in these forests and it would be quite
a common thing to see only very few specimens, or even not any. A long practice is necessary for
the successful observation of birds in these forests. My native hunter showed me, indeed, how
much training is necessary for success in this pursuit. The toucans, the trogons, the parrots,
the woodpeckers, the goat-milkers, &c., are birds of this region.
The reptilian life is everywhere at the Isthmus well developed. Alligators, lizards, iguanas,
snakes, batrachians, are represented in many different species. There are several poisonous snakes,
the bite of which can kill a man in a very short time. But, as these snakes hunt their food mostly
during the night, it is quite rare to meet them in daylight, when they prefer to rest. The zoological
names of these poisonous snakes are, Bothrops lanceolatus, Wagl., Teleuraspis schlegelii, Berth,,
Lachesis rhombeata, Pr. Max., Maps semipunctatus, D. et B., and Flaps fulvius, L. Another kind of
poisonous snake lives only in the sea along the Panama coast, and is seen very frequently. The
zoological name for it is Pelamys bicolor, Band. This snake abounds also on the shores of
Celebes, Bengal, Malabar, Sumatra, Java, China. I saw this reptile very often early in the morn-;
ing quietly lying on the water-surface of Cupica Bay.
The fish-life of the Isthmus is well developed near the shore of both oceans as well as in the
different rivers. Although the fish-fauna of these rivers cannot be compared in its richness with
that of the South American rivers, as the Amazonas, the Orino co, the Magdalena, it possesses, never¬
theless, in comparison to the short run of most of the streams, a great variety in its forms.
Several of these fishes give an important food for the natives, who dry them in smoke. After
what I have tasted on both sides of the Isthmus, I should give preference to the Pacific fishes
The family of the Siluridœ is well represented in all the rivers of both sides. Two species of these
fishes, the scales of which form around their head and the sides of the body a kind of coat of mail,
are spoken of very often by the natives, and many curious tales are told about their habits, how
these fishes can walk over land and how they are able to live on land as well as in water. The
zoological names are Loricaria uracantha, Knerr. and Steind., and Loricaria lima, Knerr. Another
genus of this family which has representatives at the Isthmus has the zoological name Pimelodus.
Lacép. The family of the Gharacinidœ is represented by two species which have a great impor¬
tance for the natives as food. The one has the name Chalcinopsis striatulus, Knerr., and is the
largest fresh-water fish of the Isthmus ; the other is known in the zoology under the name Chalci¬
nopsis cliagrensis, while the natives call it commonly 66 sardina." Besides these two families, many
others are found at the Isthmus, namely, the Clupeidce, the members of which live partly in the
ocean, partly in the rivers ; the Chromides and the Mugilidœ of the Chagres River ; the Carangidœ,
the Muraenidce, the Sclaenidw, the Cobiidce, the Mullidœ, the Pristipomatidœ, the Percidœ of both
oceans.
Several marine and river fishes of both sides belong to the same species, and prove that chan¬
nels must have once existed which made possible such a destribution. The same can be said from
the other water-animals, as Mollusca, Crustacea, and Badiata. But if we can prove by facts
on the one hand the identity of several marine species on both sides, we find also on the other
hand many species which are, as far as our present knowledge goes, only either of a specific
Atlantic or Pacific type. If the former existence of some channels between the Atlantic and the
Pacific up to the later Tertiary period explains us the identity of these forms, it would yet be neces¬
sary to explain the cause of the specific difference between the many water-animals of the two
sides. I come here to a scientific question, the detailed discussion of which would far exceed the
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
173
limits of this report. I mentioned already above, as I was speaking abont the fossils found in the
Tertiary deposits of the Pacific and of the Atlantic, that many of them were very similar to those
living at the present day in both oceans. Consequently the question arises, have the representa¬
tives of these fossils changed their character since the later Tertiary or not, and if not, as it seems
to be the case, must we not make then the conclusion that the differences which we find at present
in several sea-animals of both sides did exist already between them in the later Tertiary period
when, as we suppose according to the geological facts, channels still existed between the two
oceans ? But whereas the northern part of the Isthmus Cordillera is of an older geological age
than the southern, and whereas the San Bias Cordillera did form already a natural barrier against
the waves of the Atlantic in a time when the Pacific Ocean still covered the area which is now
part of the Isthmus, was it under such circumstances not possible that this geological structure
did influence, many geological ages ago, the distribution of the animals and plants of the Isthmus
so far as to confine some species to the Pacific waters and some others to the Atlantic ?
The mean level of the Atlantic is not higher than the Pacific, as has been proved by
the observations of Colonel Totten, thoroughly made upon the finished track of the railway,
therefore we cannot take in account for explaining these various phenomena, that the Atlantic
has poured its animals into the Pacific. Colonel Totten says in his report : "Although my
observations make the mean level of the Pacific from 0.14 to 0.7,5 foot higher than the mean
level of the Atlantic, this is probably owing to local circumstances alone. We may therefore de¬
cide that there is no difference in the mean levels of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.77 According
to what we know at present, the currents of both oceans have flowed alternately in each direction.
If we remember that several eruptions took place on the Pacific side, when the Atlantic coast was
to a great extent already formed and in a state of tranquillity, we will conceive that the temperature
of the Pacific Ocean must have been influenced several times by these eruptions. How far such a
climatic change did influence the distribution and the development of the water-animals of the
Pacific is of course a difficult question to decide upon.
These few remarks may be enough to show to everybody, what many important questions on
the distribution of the vegetable and animal life the Isthmus region presents to a naturalist, espe¬
cially at present, when the genesis of species is discussed from the most different points of view.
The animal life of the invertebrata is richly developed at the Isthmus. Beetles, (Goleoptera,)
locusts, (Orthoptera,) crickets, (GrilUnœ,) termites, (Corrodentia,) which are the builders of those
large nests of a round shape we saw very often between the branches of high trees, ants, bees, and
wasps, (Ilymenoptera)—the nests of the two latter are often attached to the overhanging limbs near
the rivers—are all represented in many species. Butterfles (Lepidoptera) are not so frequently
encountered at the Isthmus as I expected, according to what I had seen in Brazil. One butterfly,
however, ajmember of the family Morpîiidœ, attracts by its beautiful azure color, its largeness, and
its restless flying movements, very soon the attention of everybody. I saw this beautiful insect
especially along the smaller rivers of both sides. If this butterfly is the most remarkable in the
day-time, it may be said that the genus Gatocala, of the family Noctactdœ, has the finest and lagrest
representative during the evening and the night-time. The order Diptera, to which all the differen t
flies, gnats, mosquitoes, fleas, belong, and the order Hemiptera, with the different bugs and the various
members of the family of Cicadaria, have of all insects the most numerous representatives. The
spiders (Arachnoidea) are represented by many genera and species. Scorpions, tarantulab, (Lycosa
tarantula, Rossi,) mites, ticks, which bore themselves with their proboscis deep under the skin of
men and animals, and cause very often much pain, are frequently met with. The crabs, (Crusta¬
cea) have many representatives at the Isthmus in both oceans, as well as in the various rivers and
upon the land. The so-called centipedes and millipedes, of the crustaceous family Myriopoda, Latr.,
are very frequently encountered on both sides. Mollusca and Badiata occur in great abundance in
both oceans, and arc of the greatest importance to a naturalist on account of their intimate rela¬
tions to the fossils found in the Tertiary strata of both sides.
We have become acquainted at present with the natural features of the different parts of the
Isthmus which came under my direct observation and exploration.
Although the construction of an interoceanic canal is specially an engineering work, neverthe-
174
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
less it may not be out of the way, if I, as a naturalist, sum up in few words the different advan¬
tages and disadvantages which Nature has given to each of those lines for an interoceanic commu¬
nication.
1. We have learned that the Isthmus Cordillera has not at any place such a low depression as
to dispense, for joining both oceans, with either a very deep cut, or a tunnel, or several locks ; some
one or the other of these plans must be applied in carrying out this enormous work.
2. We have learned that the geology, the hydrography, and the meteorology of the Isthmus are
of a peculiar character, and differ from the geology, the hydrography, and the meteorology of North
and South America. This region must therefore be looked upon from its own point of view. The
long rainy season, with its freshets and with the sudden rise of the rivers, is an important fact to
consider generally for all practical enterprises in that country, and especially for an interoceanic
canal-junction ; but it is not less important to consider the excessive evaporation of the river-water
during the dry season, the consequence of which is the want of water at the summit during that
season.
3. We have learned that all rocks of the Isthmus are for the most part in a state of disintegra¬
tion, and that they have changed, in consequence of the decomposing influence of the air and of the
rain, more or less their true natural character. But as the water flows during the rainy seasons,
day after day, sometimes even with powerful rapidity, over these disintegrated- rocks, smaller
and larger parts of them are swept away down into the river, which carries them again further on,
till they sipk finally to'the bottom and form those hindering bars at the mouths of the rivers.
4. We have learned that the Gulf of Darien del Norte or Uraba, on the Atlantic side, is one of
the finest harbors in the world, free from reefs, hurricanes, and gales ; further, that the Atrato
beyond its bars is navigable for the largest vessels up to the mouth of the Napipi, with a depth of
five fathoms, that the distance from there to the Pacific coast is thirty-two miles, about twenty
four of which run through a flat country, very gradually rising, which reaches in the next four
miles the height of some hundred feet, and finally, upon the divide, G12 feet. After having passed
the divide we come in a very short time to the Pacific, where we find a good and healthy harbor in
the Limon Bay, free from all reefs and bars, and deep enough for the largest vessels. Wood and
stones for building purposes are found on the spot.
5. We have learned that the lowest depression between the Gulf of Saint Miguel and the
Atrato is 763 feet, and that the Tuyra region offers far more difficulties and obstacles for the con¬
struction of an interoceanic canal than the Napipi line.
6. .We have learned that the summit elevation between Panama and Aspinwall is the lowest in
the whole Isthmus, namely, 287 English feet, which is known up to the present time; but we have
learned, too, that neither Panama nor Aspinwall possesses such harbors as would be needed in case
of the construction of an interoceanic canal.
Comparing the natural healthy condition of this region with that of the Napipi, I must decidedly
give preference to the Napipi country. The surroundings of the Limon Bay offer, indeed, large
areas of the most healthy situation for all kinds of dwellings, and I must confess, after all, that I
have seen on the Atlantic, as well as on the Pacific, that no other place possesses such an area which
would be so well suited for dwellings of thousands and thousands of people, who have to work for
many years in a humid, tropical climate, exposed to all kinds of privatio n and of hardships. I
should think that the natural healthy condition of a place is at the Isthmus of far greater coir
sequence than anywhere else, especially if such a large number of workingtnen have to live together
in a wet and humid climate of the tropical zone for so long a time as the construction of an inter¬
oceanic canal would require.
All the most difficult work of the Napipi line lies near the Pacific; this would be of course of
great importance for the transportation of the different machinery, which could be brought after
its debarkation, without great trouble, immediately to the spot where the work has to be done.
Here the question arises, is a tunnel of four miles in length practicable for an interoceanic canal-
junction or not ? This, to decide, is the business of competent engineers. I for my part can only
say, after what I know of the petrographical character of the rock, that no obstacles exist to a
tunnel through the dividing ridge. But it is impossible to make any certain statement, whether
the tunneled rock will be able to sustain itself, or if arches will be needed. Another question will
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
175
be decided upon by the engineering world : Is it absolutely necessary to make there a tunnel, or have
we not at present means enough at hand to -lift by machinery, up to the divide, that quantum of
water which would be needed to set a ship afloat and to bring it over that dividing ridge! We are
able at present to bring without tunnels thousands of tons in heavy leads by locomotives, over the
Rocky Mountains, over the Alleghanies, over the Sierra Nevada, &c., and would it not be practicable
to apply machinery upon the same principle to a ship!
My conclusion is, therefore, that according to what I have seen of the Isthmus, the Gulf of
Darien with the Atrato and the Napipi with the Cupica Bay possess the greatest natural advantages
for an interoceanic canal-junction.
„ Before concluding, it is my duty to state that I have received from the first time I reported on
board of the Guard up to the very last moment I was on board of the Resaca, on the Pacific, the
most kindly attention and assistance from all the different officers of the Guard, of the Nipsic, and
of the Resaca. To a naturalist of an expedition, whose work is not always the most agreeable one,
and only too often demands for its success many things disagreeable to other persons, such a con¬
siderate attention on board of a man-of-war was especially gratifying. The time during which I
was connected with the Navy of the United States will therefore stand in my memory always as
one of the most interesting parts of my life \ and allow me to return here, publicly, my heartiest
thanks to you,- captain, as my commander, and to all the other gentlemen of the Darien surveying
expedition.
It is my duty to do the same to all the different gentlemen of the Panama Railroad Company,
to Colonel Totten, Superintendent Dubois, Captain Dow, Superintendent Nelson, Mr. Turner, as
well as to all the different track-masters along the road. One and all lent me as far as possible
their full assistance, and for having been able to do so much work in the comparatively short time
of six months, I am largely indebted to the kindness of the naval officers as well as of the officials
of the Panama Railroad Company.
I am, sir, yours, very respectfully,
DR. G. A. MAACK.
Cambridge, Massachusetts, October 1,1871.
REPORT
UPON
ANALYSIS OF SPECIMENS OF COAL FROM THE ISTHMUS OF DARIEN,
BY
PROFESSOR Gr. IP. BARKER, NEW HAYEN.
New Haven, October 27, 1871.
Sir : I herewith submit to you my report upon the specimens of coal from the Isthmus of
JDarien and the Isthmus of Panama, which were forwarded to me by you for chemical investigation.
i.—darien coal.
Two samples of this coal were received, both of them from the same locality, as you informed
me. One of these was in large fragments ; this I have marked A. The other was in a single lump ;
I have marked it B. Both specimens have the appearance of having been taken from an outcrop,
they being fully weathered. In appearance they closely resemble bituminous coal, and are inter¬
sected in various directions by cracks or fissures, which have been subsequently filled—doubtless
through the action of water—with a white, cleavable, calcium carbonate. The specific gravity of
these specimens was found to be as follows :
1.
2.
Mean.
Specific gravity of A
1. 452
1.523
1.484
1. 504
1.468
1.5135
Specific gravity of B
Hence a cubic foot of coal A weighs 91.49 pounds, and there are 24.48 cubic feet of it to the
ton of 2,240 pounds. A cubic foot of sample B weighs 94.32 pounds, and there are 23.75 cubic
feet to the ton.
A portion of both samples was coarsely pulverized and submitted to proximate analysis.
The following are the results obtained :
Proximate analysis of sample A.
1.
2.
Mean.
Water, (loss at 100° C.)
7.10
39.16
36. 84
16. 90
7. 08
39.42
38. 34
15,16
7. 09
39.29
37. 59
16. 03
Volatile matter, (loss on ignition)
Fixed carbon
100. 00
100.00
100.00
II. Mis. 113-
-23
178 DABÏEN SHIP-CANAL.
Proximate analysis of sample B.
1.
2.
Mean.
Water, (loss at 100° C.)
6.67
41.40
40.77
11.16
6.72
42.69
40.21
10.38
6.69
42.05
40. 49
10,77
Y olatile matter ,
Fixed carbon
Ash
100.00
100. 00
100. 00
Wlien subjected to beat both specimens sinter together, yielding a solid cake. Both resemble,
therefore, the caking coal.
Another portion of sample Ê was finely pulverized, and dried at 100° C., until it ceased to lose
weight. A proximate analysis of this portion gave as follows.
1.
2.
Mean.
Volatile matter „
•
47. 57
37. 67
14.76
46. 97
38.70
14. 33
47. 27
.38.18
14. 55
Fixed carbon . ... ......
Ash
100. 00
100. 00
100.00
This finely pulverized sample was then submitted to ultimate analysis, being burned in a
stream of oxygen. This analysis yielded the following results :
Ultimate analysis of sample B.
1.
2.
Mean.
Grams.
Per cent.
Grams.
Per cent.
Carbon ..1
.1645
59. 56
.1915
60. 39
59. 98
Hydrogen
.0138
5. 00
.0160
5. 04
5. 02
Oxygen and nitrogen
.0545
19. 73
.0590
18.61
19.17
Ash
.0434
15.71
.0506
15.96
15. 83
.2762
100. 00
.3171
100.00
100. 00
, From these figures the theoretical calorific power of this coal may be calculated. If the com¬
position above given be referred to one part instead of one hundred, we shall have—
Carbon - 5998
Hydrogen 0502
Oxygen and nitrogen 1917
Ash 1583
1. 0000
Hence by the formula :
Belative calorific power = C.+4.265 (H.—-we get
Relative calorific power = .5998+.1122 = .7120
the relative calorific power of this coal compared with that of pure carbon as unity ) or by the
formula
Calorific power = 8080 C.+34462 (H.—Jïï) we get
Calorific power = 4846.5+906.5 = 5753
the number of heat-units obtainable from this coal. In other words, one pound of it, if burned,
DARIEN SIIIP-OANAL.
179
would raise the temperature of 5,753 pounds of water from 0° to 1° 0. Of course, then, the com¬
bustion of this amount would furnish heat sufficient to raise 57.53 pounds of water from the freez¬
ing to the boiling point ; and as 5.5 pounds are so raised by the heat necessary to evaporate one
pound from the boiling point, it is evident that one pound of this coal in burning would evaporate
(57.53-7-5.5) 10.46 pounds of water. An experimental determination of the calorific power was
then made by BerthiePs process. A portion of the finely pulverized coal was mixed with forty
times its weight of litharge, placed in a crucible, and heated gradually until the litharge was com ¬
pletely infused. The button of metallic lead, when cooled, was weighed. The results are as follows :
l.
Weight of coal taken.« grams
Weight of lead button grams
Amount of lead from one part of coal parts
Oxygen consumed by one part of coal pârts
1.1740
25.0088
21.30
1.64G
2.
1. 0297
22.5421
21.89
1.702
Mean.
21.59
1.674
Since one part of pure carbon reduced 34.5 parts of lead, and its combustion generates 8080
heat-units, it is obvious that the calorific power of a coal like this which reduces 21.59 parts of
lead will be fy-f of 8080 units, or 5056 units, equivalent to the raising of 50.56 pounds of water
from 0° to 100° O., or to the evaporation of (50.56-r5.5) 9.193 pounds of water. It should here be
observed that this method of Berthier proceeds upon the assumption that the reducing effect of
a coal is due entirely to carbon ; whereas, in proportion as a coal is more or less highly bituminous,
its hydrogen, in excess of that required to form water with the oxygen present, takes part in the
reduction of the litharge. When applied to bituminous coals, therefore, this process gives results
always too low.
The amount of sulphur contained in this coal was not determined, since it was so fully weath¬
ered that no such determination could be of any value. No pyrites could be detected in it, how¬
ever, on close inspection, though thin crusts of iron-sulphate were discernible, which probably had
their origin in such pyrites. Moreover, the coal yielded to water sufficient ferric salt to give it a
strong styptic character, and, on standing, flakes of ferric hydrate were deposited.
The ash yielded by this coal is light chocolate-brown in color, is very light and porous, and
effervesces strongly with acids. No analysis of it was made. The results of this examination
prove the Darien material to be an excellent variety of bituminous coal, resembling closely in coin-
position many of the so-called brown coals of Europe, particularly of France. From the results
of its analysis it is judged to be a coal of more recent age than the Carboniferous. Hence its cal¬
orific power, both theoretical and experimental, falls below that of the coals geologically older, being
9.193 to 10.46 pounds of water evaporated, while the average for English coals is 14 ; that for
Scotch coals is 14.3; and that for Welsh coals 14.9 pounds. Whether, therefore, it can ever com¬
pete with English coals will depend upon whether it can be laid down at the same ports for less
than these, in the ratio of these numbers. As it is mined, it is probable that the earthy matters
will diminish and the sulphides will increase ; though whether the sulphur will ever be sufficient
seriously to injure it, and particularly to render it liable to spontaneous combustion, can be deter¬
mined only by trial.
II.—PANAMA COAL.
A single specimen of Panama coal was received. This coal is clean, is readily split, and resem¬
bles closely a cannel-coal. Its specific gravity was found to be as follows :
1.
2.
Mean.
Specific gravity
1.347
1.349
1.348
Hence a cubic foot of this coal would weigh 84.01 pounds, and a ton of 2,240 pounds would
occupy 26.65 cubic feet. On pulverizing and averaging a portion of this coal it gave, when sub¬
mitted to proximate analysis, results as follows :
180
«AMEN SHIP-CANAL.
Proximate analysis of Panama coal.
•
1.
2.
Mean.
Water and volatile matter
50. 96
39. 75
9.29
50.28
40.33
9. 39
50. 62
40.04
9. 34
Fixed carl» on.................................... ............
100. 00
V
100.00
100. 00
This coal does not cake together when heated, and is therefore a free-burning coal, resembling
a eannel, but of more recent origin, and allied to lignite.
Bespectfully, yours,
GEORGE F. BARKER.
Thomas O. Selfeidoe, Esq.,
Commander United States Navy.
REPORT
UPON
THE ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE ON THE ISTHMOS OF DARIEN,
BY
.a. t. mosman, assistant tjistitkid states coast. survey,
1870.
Beverly, Massachusetts, September 2,1870.
Sir : In obedience to your orders of April 14,1 submit tbe following report, supplemental to
mine of April 18, and giving, as you required, " the true positions of the stations occupied, the
means by which I obtained them, and formula used."
I herewith forward to you all the records of the astronomical observations made by me on the
Isthmus of Darien, with the results for the positions of Aspinwall, Caledonia Bay, and San Bias,
examples of the method of observing, recording, and reducing the observations, with the formula
used for the latter. I append also tables of the corrections and rates of the several chronometers
used in obtaining the longitudes, with the final results by each chronometer ; also the separate
results for latitude at each station.
The observations for time were made with portable transits Nos. 9 and 11, made by Wurde-
mann, and those for latitude with zenith telescope No. 4, by the same maker. Both transits had
been supplied with new diaphragms for this expedition, and, as No. 9 had been fitted with a
micrometer and rack to be used for latitude observations when no zenith telescope was available,
the seven wires were very close together to bring them into the field of eye-glass, which had no
parallactic motion.
It was' necessary wfirst to obtain the value of the thread-intervals, of this new diaphragm.
Owing to the low latitudes of the stations, which limited the number of slow-moving stars which
could be observed, and the very cloudy nights, which made it almost impossible to obtain a complete
transit over all the wires, no regular observations for thread-intervals were made, but all the com¬
plete transits observed on-any star were used, which gave the following for the values of the
equatorial intervals of transit No. 9.
The intervals are from the mean of all and not from the middle wire, and are obtained from
thirty observations on stars of from +69° to —30° declination.
182 DAKIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Equatorial intervals of transit No. 9, ( Wurdemann, portable,) illumination west.
Wires.
Intervals.
Logs.
1
2
3
4 middle.
5
6
7
8.
+32. 04
+22.03
+10. 99
+ 0.42
-11. 02
-21. 58
• -32.81
1.50569
1.34301
1.04100
9.62325
n 1.04218
n 1.33405
n 1.51601
The value of one division-level is =ls.O.
Transit No. 11 was used for a few nights only at Aspinwall, for reasons explained in my first
report of April 18. The following are the values of its thread intervals from eleven observations
on stars of small declination :
Equatorial intervals of transit No. 11, (portable,) illumination west.
Wires.
Intervals.
Logs.
1
+44.38
1. 64719
2
+29.79
1. 47407
3
+14.88
1.17260
Middle 4
+ 0. 08
8.90309
5
-14.88
n 1.17260
6
-29.65
n 1.47022
7
-44. 56
n 1.64895
The value of one division of level =0s. 75.
The following is an example of the method of observing, recording, and computing used in all
cases after the transit had been put approximately in the meridian, which was done by observing
one or two zenith stars (when possible) to obtain an approximate chronometer correction, and then
using this correction, with the instrument carefully leveled, the middle wire of the transit was
brought accurately upon a slow moving star at the instant of its culmination. Owing to the un¬
favorable weather on the Isthmus it was very seldom that a completely satisfactory series of zenith
stars and circumpolars could be obtained, and the difficulties in the way of putting the transit in
the meridian and obtaining an accurate determination of time were very great, owing to clouds and
passing showers.
San Bias, New Granada, April 25, 1870. Observations for time with Transit No. 9 ; siderial chronometer 207.
Observer, A. T. Mosman, Assistant United States Coast Survey.
Star.
d Ursae Majoris.
e Leonis.
ft Leonis.
a Leonis.
y' Leonis.
9 Draconis.
I Leonis.
è Leonis.
Illuminations.
West.
East.
East.
East.
East.
East.
East.
West.
West.
West.
Level
/■
9ft. 38m.
W. 7.0 E. 3. 0
7. 0 3. 0
14. 0 6. 0
+8d.0=+05. 13
&= +
9ft. 41m.
W. 7. 5 E. 2. 5
7. 0 3. 0
14.5 5. 5
+9d. 0=+0s. 15
05.14
&= + 05.14
10 h. 1m.
W. 7. 0 E. 3. 5
8. 0 3. 0
&=+05.13
W.8.5 E.3.5
7. 0 5. 0
10ft. 34m.
W. 6. 0 E. 6. 5
7. 5 5. 0
+05. 03
6— +05. 03
10ft. 46m.
W. 8. 0 E. 5. 0
8. 5 4. 5
lift. 3m.
W.8.0 E.5.0
9.0 4. 5
+05.12
6=+05.12
W. 9. 0 E. 4. 5
9. 0 4. 0
-f 05.14
&=+05.14
+ 05.12
b= + 05.12
+ 05.12
&=+O5.12
+05.16
& = + 05.16
"VV ire 1
9h. 40m. 9«.l
39 .2
11 .8
9ft. 56m. 385.2
50 .6
Clouds
10ft. 3m. 315. 2
44 .1
55 .6
4 8.5
19 .7
32 .6
43 .7
10/» 19m. 395. 5
50 .7
20 1.7
13 .3
24 .1
35 .6
45 .6
10ft. 30m. 595. 6
31 11 .5
22 .4
35 .0
46 .2
58 .1
32 8.6
10ft. 40m. 275. 2
41 16 .0
42 0.5
lift. 0m. 395.2
Clouds
lift. 25 m. 235.6
34 .7
46 .1
*58 .2
26 10 .2
21 .0
34 .2
YVire 2 . . ....
W ire 3 ......
1 0.6
11 .5
23 .2
33 .7
45 .2
-3 .73
11 1 11 . 84
"Wire 4
Clouds
do
Wire 5 .
....do
57 26 .6
38 .4
49 .2
-2 .34
9 57 14.26
10 43 37. 0
44 20. 7
45 8.2
-1 32. 60
10 42 49. 37
Wire 6 .. .............
9 42 48.1
Clouds
Wire 7
B — redu. to mean wire ..
T — mean wire
A
B
C
a \
6
k
B b
T and B& + Ic = t
a — t—w
C c
+1 4. 65
9 41 44. 68
-1 5.66
9 41 42. 44
+1 32 .60
10 42 47 . 7
10 4 7 . 91
10ft. 20m. 125. 93
10 31 34 . 49
11 25 58 .30
-25. 60
+ 1 .44
+3 .00
-0.28
+1 .06
-fl .09
-0 .33
+1 .07
+1 .11
—0 .05
+1 .01
+1 .02
-0 .20
+1 .04
+1 .06
r
t
+ 1
+ 4
.93
.67
.28
-0 .04
+1 .02
+1 .02
-0 .22
+ 1 .04
+1 .06
9ft. 22m. 565. 62
+70° 24'
9 38 28. 37
•+•24° 22'
94 5 22 .20
+26° 37'
10ft. lm.275.22
+12°. 36'
10 12 48 .57
+20° 30'
10ft. 24m. O5. 07
+76° 23'
10 42 25 . 93
+UO 14'
11 7 12 .27
+21° 14'
-05. 01
+0 .19
9ft. 41 m. 44s. 86
—18m.
-05. 01
9h. 41m. 425. 62
475.12
05. 00
+0 .15
9h. 57m. 145. 41
18 46 .04
-0 .35
-18 56 .39
+0 .2
-18 46 .37
-0 .15
-18 46. 22
05. 00
+0 .15
10ft. 4m. 85.06
-18 45 .86
-0 .36
-18 46.22
+0 .01
-18 46 .21
-0 .18
-18 46 .03
05. 60
+0 .13
10ft. 20m. 135. 06
-18 45 .84
-0 .33
-18 46 .17
-0 .00
-18 46.17
-0 .03
-18 46 .14
05. 00
+0 .12
107i. 31m. 345.61
-18 46 .04
0 .34
-18 46 .38
-0 .01
-18 46.39
-0 .11
-18 46 .28
-05. 01
+0 .04
10ft. 42m. 475.20
18m. A
/
-05. 01
+0 .20
10ft. 42m. 495.56
185. 31
05. 00
+0 .12
lift. Irn. 115.96
-18 46 .03
-0 .33
-18 45.70
-0 .03
-18 45 .73
-0 .02
-18 45 .71
05. 00
+0 .17
lift. 25m. 58 5.47
-1-8 46.17
-0 .34
-18 45 .83
-0 .04
-18 45 .87
-0 .12
-18 45 .75
w ± Cc — co.
Corr'n for rate = p
CO() + P — (c°o)
Azimuth corr'n A a
Chron. corr'n =fA£
-18 47 .12
+0 .02
-18 47 .10
-1 .40
-18 45 .70
18 48 .31
-0 .02
-18 48.33
-2 .12
-18 46.21
* Foot-clouds.
t At — [(tto)-Aa.]
184
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
San Bias, New Granada, April 25, 1870.
Collimation correction — £ (te—tw)rC.
Star.
Co.
C.
c.
d Urs. Major..
9 Draconis....
—1.12
—1.18
" +3.00
+4.28
s
—0.37
—0.28
—0. 32
Chronometer and azimuth correction.
Assume 0 = — 18m.46.0s ; T0 — 10/t sid. time ; rate — + 0s.04 per Iiour ; (u0)1 — (w0) — 6.
Star.
HI.
d Urs. Major
E and W
« Leonis
E.
ju, Leonis
E.
a Leonis
E.
y' Leonis
E.
9 Draconis
E. and W.
I Leonis
W.
Ô Leonis
W.
(wo)
A.
(^o)1
A2
A(Wq)1
Aa.
At
—18m. 47 5.10
-2. 60
-1.10
6. 76
4-2. 86
-1. 40
—18. 45.70
46 .37
—0. 28
-0. 37
0. 08
4-0.10
-0.15
46. 22
46 .21
-0. 33
-0.21
0.11
4-0. 07
-0.18
46. 03
46 .17
-0. 05
-0.17
0. 00
4-0. 01
-0. 03
46.14
46 .39
-0.20
-0. 39
0. 04
4-0. 08
-0.11
46. 28
48 .33
-3. 93
-2. 33
15. 44
4-9.16
-2.12
46. 21
45 .73
-0. 04
-}-0. 27
0.00
-0. 01
-0.12
45.71
45 .87
-0. 22
4-0.13
0. 05
-0. 03
-0.12
45. 75
Sums.
-7. 65.
-4.17
22. 48
4-12.24
-18. 46.004
8 AO—7. 65 a = — 4.17.
— 7. 65 AO + 22. 48 a = + 12. 24.
from which we have * a = + 0. 54.
A0 = — 0.004.
0+ AO — At — — 18m.4Gs. 004.
In the foregoing computation—
<p = the latitude of the station = 9° 30' -,
ô = declination of star 5
a = right ascension of star -,
R = Reduction to the mean of all the wires, and is equal to the mean of the equatorial
intervals of all the threads observed into the sec d or, where F = the mean of
the equatorial intervals of the wires observed, F sec ô = R, A = ?
77 cos d
B_ cos (y-3) C = sec,
COS d 7
A= star constant for azimuth correction ;
B = star constant for level correction ;
O = star constant for collimation correction ;
a = azimuth correction in time ;
7 t , t 7 value of 1 div. of level „
b = level correction in time = dm. of level x jg >and is positive for
illumination west, 1 div. of scale = F'.OO 5
c = collimation correction which is here obtained from reversals on d Urs. Maj. and 9
Draconis from the formula c = 5
A\j
t = observed time of transit corrected for level and diurnal aberration, or t = T + Bb + 1c
where 7c = + 0.0206 cos <p sec d 5
* Using this value of a — -j- 0.54 we compute A a for each star, then (gi0) — Aa == At for each star, and the means of
these values of At should be the same as At obtained from the two normal equations above.
DABIEN SHIP-CANAL.
185
CO
: the approximate chronometer correction = a — t = At + Aa± Cc ;
w0== the approximate chronometer corrected for collimation ;
(w0)= the approximate chronometer corrected for collimation and rate ;
At= the approximate chronometer corrected for collimation, rate, and azimuth;
an approximate chronometer correction assumed for convenience ; then (w0)A = (a/0)
— 0 for an arbitrary time ; T0 = 1M and the w0s of the several stars are reduced to
the common time T0 by applying the correction for rate, p = T0 co0 = t^0 + (t — T)
hourly rate ;
w0= co ± C<?, upper sign for lamp west.
Below I give the corrections and rates of the eight chronometers used on the expedition, and
afterward the result by each chronometer for the difference of longitude of the three stations
occupied.
CORRECTIONS AND RATES OF CHRONOMETERS.
NEW YORK.
Date.
Sidereal chronometer 207.
1870.
Jan. 19
20
21
Tn
h.
20
20
18.5
Correction.
h. m. s.
4-0 0 2.80
3.16
3. 24
Hourly rate.
s.
-0. 015
-0. 003
Sidereal chronometer 202.
Date.
1870.
Jan. "17.
18.
19.
20.
Tr
h.
20
20
20
20
Correction.
h. m. s.
-f 2 58 13. 28
15. 92
18. 24
21.18
Hourly rate.
s.
4-0.110
4-0. 097
4-0.113
A SPIN WALL, N. G.
1870,
Jan, 31
Feb. 1
5
10
11
12
14
18
1870,
Feb. 24
March 6
12
18
April 14
1870
April 23
25
May 11
21
30
h.
6
5
5
5
6
6
5
6
h. mk s.
0 23 33.98
33. 45
29. 93
25. 01
24. 72
23. 94
21.10
17. 44
+ 0. 0191
4-0. 037 I
4-0. 041.)
4-0. 012"
4-0.032
4-0. 060
4-0. 038
40s. 038
4-0s. 041
1870.
Jan. 31.
Feh.
1.
5.
10.
11.
12.
14.
18.
ll.
h. m. s.
8.4
4- 2 35 30. 95
8.6
35. 48
6.5
55. 49
5.8
36 19.12
7.3
24. 04
6.4
29.13
6.1
38. 69
8.4
37 1.19
4-0.186]
4-0. 213 j>
4-0.198 j
4-0.193
4-0. 220
4-0.200
+0.229
4-0». 203
CALEDONIA BAY, N. Gr.
h.
6
7
7
9
9
h. m. s.
0 14 17. 41
8. 05
1. 69
13 54. 82
25. 93
s.
4-0. 038
4-0. 044
4-0. 047
4-0. 045
1870.
Feh. 24.
March 6.
12.
18.
April 14.
SAN BLAS, N. Gr.
h.
h. m. s.
7.6
4- 2 46 29. 79
8.0
47 26. 55
7.8
48 1.52
10.4
35. 05
10.5
51 13. 86
s.
4-0. 236
4-0. 239
4-0. 229
4-0.245
h.
h. m. s.
10
— 0 18 48. 45
10
45. 99
12
31.23
12
21. 84
12
13. 77
4-0. 051
4-0. 038
4-0. 039
4-0. 038
\ +0s.
040
1870.
April 23.
25.
May 11.
21.
30.
h.
h. m. 8.
13.1
4- 2 46 39. 76
12.1
52. 27
13.6
48 33. 78
12.9
49 41. 56
13.2
50 41. 48
4-0.266
4-0.263
4-0. 283
4-0. 277
H. Mis. 113 24
186
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
CORRECTIONS AND RATES OF CHRONOMETERS.
NEW TORN.
Mean-time chronometer No. 952.
Mean-time chronometer No. 1074.
Date.
T0
Correction.
Hourly rate.
Date.
T0
Correction.
Hourly rate.
1870.
h.
h. m. s.
s.
1870.
h.
h. m. s.
s.
Jan. 17
20.0
— 4 56 11.16
Jan. 17
20.0
— 4 53 17.16
+0. 003
18
—0. 059
20.0
57 12. 58
18
20.0
17. 08
19
—0. 059
19
+0. 003
20.0
14. 00
20.0
17. 00
20
—0. 080
20
+0. 003
20.0
15. 92
20.0
16.92
21
—0. 080
—0. 016
18.5
17. 80
21
18.5
17.30
ASPINWALL, N. G.
1870.
Jan. 31
Feb. 1
5
10
11
12
14
18
h.
h. m. s.
s.
1870.
h.
h. m. s.
8.3
— 5 21 7.35
Jan. 31
8.3
— 5 16 53.39
—0. 0611
1
8.3
8. 81
Feb. 1
8.4
53. 90
—0:041 }> -05.035
1
55.26
6.3
12. 66
5
6.3
—0. 026 J
57. 04
5.6
15. 74
10
5.6
—0. 051
7.3
57. 94
7.3
17. 06
11
—0. 039
6.3
58. 42
6.3
17. 95
12
—0. 027
6.0
59.58
6. 0
19. 26
14
—0. 030
8.3
17 0.79
8.3
22.18
18
8.
-0. 0211
-0.015 >
-0.015 J
-0.035
-0.021
-0.024
-0. 012
—0s. 016
CALEDONIA BAT, N. G.
1870.
h.
h. m. s.
Féb. 24
7.5
— 5 8 5.96
March 6
7.8
8. 53
12
7.6
9. 92
18
10.4
10. 98
April 14
10.5
14. 75
1870.
h.
h. m. s.
Feb. 24
7.5
— 5 12 30. 85
March 6
' 7.8
33. 83
12
7.6
34. 49
18
10.3
36.15
April 14
10.4
40. 37
s.
—0. 012
—0. 005
—0,011
—0. 007
S.
—0. 011
—0. 010
—0.007
—0. 006
SAN BLAS, N. G.
1870.
h.
h. m. s.
April 23
13.0
— 5 18 12. 43
25
12.0
11.99
May 11
13.4
13.77
21
12.8
15. 63
30
13.1
19. 39
s.
-fO. 009
—0. 005
—0. 008
—0. 018
1870.
April 23
25
May 11
21
30
h.
h. m. s.
13.0
— 5 13 47.97
12.0
48.26
13.4
52. 26
12. 8
51. 66
13.1
50. 57
s.
—0. 013
—0.014
—0.002
—0. 005
£
H
£
TORK.
■ ir * ■ -■m —
Mean-time chronometer 1275.
Mean-time chronometer 1319.
1870.
h.
h. m. s.
s.
«
1870.
h.
h. m. s.
8.
Jan. 17
20.0
— 5 0 29. 66
Jan. 17..
20.0
— 5 2 25.16
— 0. 080
— 0. 047
18
20.0
30. 78
18
20.0
27.08
— 0. 051
— 0. 060
19
20.0
32. 00
19
20.0
28.50
— 0. 060
— 0. 060
20
20.0
33. 42
20
20.0
29. 92
- 0.085
— 0. 063
21
18.5
34. 80
21
18.5
31. 80
ASPINWALL, N. G.
1870.
h.
h. m. s.
s.
1870.
h.
h. m. s.
s.
Jan. 31
8.3
— 5 24 18. 96
Jan. 31...
8.3
— 5 26 21.31
— 0. 0511
— 0.0421
Feb, 1 :
8.4
19. 98
Feb. 1
8.4
22. 54
— 0.018 i—0s. 023
— 0. 043 > —0s. 037
5
6.4
24.01
5
6. 4
24.21
— 0.022 J
— 0.031j
26. 87
10
5.6
27. 69
10
5. 6
— 0. 039
— 0.043
11
7.3
28. 69
11
7.3
27.98
— 0. 035
— 0. 033
12
6.3
29. 49
12
6.3
28. 74
— 0. 036
— 0. 038
14
6.1
31. 33
14
6.0
30. 45
— 0. 038
33. 32
— 0. 030
18
8.3
35.13
18
8.3
|
DAKIEN SHIP-CANAL.
CORRECTIONS AND RATES OF CHRONOMETERS.
187
CALEDONIA BAT, N. G.
Mean-time chronometer 1275.
Date.
1870.
Feb. 24
Mar, 6..
12
18.
Apr. 14
Tn
h.
7.5
7.9
7.6
10.3
10.4
Correction.
h. m. s.
— 5 15 45.15
52. 87
57. 33
16 1.56
15. 02
Hourly rate.
s.
0. 032
0. 031
0. 029
0. 021
Mean-time chronometer 1319.
Date.
1870
Feb. 24
Mar. 6
12
18
Apr. 14
T0
Correction.
Hourly rate.
Ji.
h. m. s.
s.
7.5
— 5 17 42. 06
7.9
47. 60
— 0. 023
7.6
50. 67
— 0. 021
10.4
54.16
— 0. 024
10.4
18 9.77
— 0- 024
SAX BLAS, X. G.
1870.
h.
h. m. s.
Apr. 23
13.0
— 5 21 53. 06
25
12.0
54.03
May 11....
13.4
22 5.43
21
13.0
13. 46
30
13.1
20. 97
s.
0. 021
0. 030
0. 033
0. 035
1870.
Apr. 23
25
May 11
21.
30
h.
h. m. s.
13.0
— 5 23 46. 86
12.0
47. 87
13.4
24 1.51
12.8
8. 78
13.1
14, 20
s.
0. 023
0. 035
0. 030
0. 025
HEW YORK.
Mean-time chronometer 1344.
1870
Jan. 17
18
19
20
21
h.
20.0
20.0
20.0
20.0
18.5
h. m. s.
4 46 25.16
24. 58
24. 20
22. 34
+ 0.024
+ 0.016
+ 0.040
Mean-time chronometer 1605.
1870.
h.
h. m. s.
Jan. 17
20.0
— 4 35 0.16
18
20.0
34 58.08
4- 0.087
19
20.0
56. 00
4- 0.087
20 ;.
20.0
53. 92
4- 0.087
21
18.5
52. 34
4- 0.072
ASPIXW ALL, X. G.
1870.
Jan. 31
Feb. 1
5
10.
11
12
14
18
h.
h. m. s.
8.4
— 5 9 46.71
8.4
46. 02
6.4
42. 43
5.7
36. 38
7.3
35. 65
- 6.4
34. 78
6.0
33.15
8.3
29. 48
s,
+ 0. 0291
+ 0. 038 [ + 0s. 043
+ 0. 050 j
+ 0.028
+ 0.038
+ 0.034
+ 0. 038
1870.
Jan. 31
Feb. 1
5
10
11
12
14
18
h.
h. m. s.
8.4
— 4 58 4. 50
8.4
1. 61
6.4
57 49. 57
5.7
35. 93
7.2
33. 74
6.4
31. 59
6.0
26. 45
8.3
16. 24
+ 0.120 j
+ 0.128 S 4- 0s, 121
4~ 0.114 J
4- 0.086
4- 0.092
4- 0.108
4- 0.103
CALEDOXIA BAY, H. G.
1870,
Feb. 24
Mar. 6
12.
18
Apr. 14
h.
h. m. s.
7.5
— 5 0 27.88
8.0
17. 87
7.6
11. 59
10.3
5.75
10.4
— 4 59 41.23
4- 0.041
4- 0. 044
4- 0.040
4- 0.038
1870.
Feb. 24
Mar. 6
12
18
Apr. 14
h.
h. m. s.
7.5
— 4 48 6. 74
7.9
47 42. 92
7.7
28. 93
10.4
13. 72
10.5
46 2.69
s.
4- 0.099
4- 0.098
4- 0.104
4- 0.110
SAX] BLAS, H. G.
1870.
Apr. 23
25
May 11
21.......
30
h.
h. m. s.
13.0
— 5 5 4.68
12.0
2. 58
13.4
4 49.14
12.9
37.56
13.1
25.78
4- 0.045
4- 0.035
4- 0.049
+ 0.054
1870.
Apr. 23
25
May 11
21
30
h.
h. m. s.
13.1
— 4 51 9. 98
12.0
4. 44
13.5
50 23. 49
13.0
49 57.01
13.2
34.10
s,
4- 0.118
4- 0.106
4- 0.110
4- 0.106
188
HAEIEN SHIP-CANAL.
By inspecting the foregoing tables of corrections and rates it is evident that all the chronom¬
eters altered their rates in the same direction, viz : the positive or losing rates have been increased
and the negative decreased between January 21, the date of sailing from New York, and February
10, ten days, (the length of the voyage,) after getting observations at Aspinwall.
I therefore adopt a mean of the New York and Aspinwall rates as the most satisfactory one
to use. Below I give the.results from each chronometer.
Difference of longitude at Aspinwall, New Granada, west of Neiv York«
" Number chro¬
nometers.
New York cor¬
rection, Jan-
nary 20.
T0
Hourly
rates.
New York cor¬
rection, Jan¬
uary 31.
To
Aspinwall cor¬
rection, Jan¬
uary 31.
•
Aspinwall west
of New York.
h. m. s.
h. m. s.
h. m. 8.
h. m. s.
207 sid
-0 0 3.24
18.5
+ 0. 014
+ 0 0 0.28
6
-0 23 33.98
+ 0 23 34.26
202 sid
+ 2 53 21.18*
20.0
+ 0.158
+ 2 59 4.82
8.4
+ 2 35 30.95
0 23 33.87
952 M. T
-4 57 17.80
18.5
-0. 052
-4 57 30.88
8.3
+ 5 21 7.35
0 23 36.47
1074 M. T
-4 53 17.30
18.5
-0. 016
— 4 53 21.32
8.3
—5 16 53.39
0 23 32.07
1275 M.T
-5 0 34.80
18.5
-0. 045
-5 0 46.12
8.3
-5 24 18.96
0 23 32.84
1319 M. T
-5 2 31.80
18.5
-0. 046
-5 2 43.37
8.3
—5 26 21.31
0 23 37.94
1344 M.T
-4 46 22.34
18.5
+ 0. 036
-4 46 13.29
8.4
-5 9 46.71
0 23 33.42
1605 M. T. .
-4 34 52.34
18. 5
+ 0.101
-4 34 26.94
8.4
— 4 58 4.50
0 23 37.56
+ 0 23 34.80
Loneritude of New York ..
4 55 56.92
Longitude of observatory at Aspinwall
5 19 31.72
Reduction to lierht-hoiise..
+ 0 0 0.49
Longitude of light-house at Aspinwall
5 19 32.21
Longitude of light house at Aspinwall
79° 53' 3". 15
Latitude of light-house at Aspinwall
9° 22' 10". 1
* January 19, 20 liours sidereal time,
Difference of l<Tngitude at Caledonia Bay east of Aspinwall,
Chronometers.
Aspinwall cor¬
rection, Feb¬
ruary 18.
Sid. T0.
Hourly
rate.
Aspinwall cor¬
rection, Feb¬
ruary 24.
Sid. T0.
Caledonia Bay
correction,
February 24.
Longitude of
Caledonia Bay
east of Aspin-
wall.
h. m. s.
h. m. s.
h. m. s.
h. m. s.
207 sid
-0 23 17.44
6
+ 0. 038
-0 23 11.97
6
-0 14 17.41
-0 8 54.56
202 sid
+ 2 37 1.19
8.4
+ 0. 232
+ 2 37 34.49
8.4
+ 2 46 29.79
0 8 55.30
952 M. T
-5 21 22.18
8.3
-0. 021
-5 21 25.19
7.5
-5 12 30.85
0 8 54.34
1074 M. T
-5 17 0.79
8.3
-0. 011
-5 17 2.37
7.5
-5 8 5.96
0 8 54.41
1275 M. T.....
-5 24 35.13
8.3
-0. 035
-5 24 40.14
7.5
-5 15 45.15
0 8 54.99
1319 M.T
-5 26 33.32
8.3
-0. 026
-5 26 37.04
7.5
-5 17 42.06
0 8 54.98
1344 M. T
-5 9 29.48
8.3
+ 0. 040
-5 9 23.75
7.5
-5 0 27.88
0 8 55.87
1605 M. T
-4 58 16.24
8.3
+ 0.101
-4 ' 58 1. 78
7.5
-4 48 6.74
0 8 55.04
%
-0 8 54.94
Longitude of observatory at Aspinwall
5 19 31.72
Longitude of Cocoanut Island, Caledonia Bay .
5 10 36.78
Longitude of Cocoanut Island, Caledonia Bay .
77° 39' 11". 7
Latitude of Cocoanut Island, Caledonia Bay..
8° 53' 52". 0
DAEIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Difference of longitude at San Bias west of Caledonia Bay.
189
Chronometers.
Caledonia Bay
correction,
Aprils 14.
T0.
Hourly
rate.
Caledonia Bay
correction,
April 23.
T0.
San Bias cor¬
rection, April
23.
Difference of
longitude.
h. m. s.
h. m. s.
h. m. s.
h. m. s.
207 sid
-0 13 25.93
9
+ 0.042
-0 13 16.82
10
-0 18 48.45
+ 0 5 31.63
202 sid
+ 2 51 13.86
10.5
+ 0. 255
+ 2 52 9.65
13.1
+ 2 46 39.76
0 5 29.89
952 M. T
-5 12 40.37
10.4
+ 0. 001
-5 12 40.15
13.0
-5 18 12.43
0 5 32.28
1074 M. T
-5 8 14.75
10.5
-0. 010
-5 8 17.93
13.0
-5 13 47.97
0 5 30.04
1275 M. T
-5 16 15.02
10. 4
-0. 025
-5 16 20.50
13. 0
-5 21 53.06
0 5 32.56
1319 M. T ....
-5 18 9.77
10.4
-0. 024
-5 1.8 15.02
13.0
-5 23 . 46. 86
0 5 31.84
1344 M. T
-4 59 41.23
10.4
+ 0.041
-4 59 32.27
13.0
-5 5 4.68
0 5 32.41
1605 M. T
-4 46 2.69
10.5
+ 0.114
-4 45 37.77
13.1
-4 51 9.98
0 5 32.21
+ 0 5 31.61
Trmodtnde of Caledonia Bav
5 10 36.78
Longitude of astronomical station at San Bias .
5 16 8 . 39
Longitude of astronomical station at San Bias .
79° 02' 05". 8
Latitude of astronomical station at San Bias...
9° 29' 58". 14
The latitudes of the stations were determined with the zenith-telescope by the method in use
on the Coast Survey.
As the observations were very much interfered with by clouds, there having been no really
clear night during the time we were on the Isthmus, I was unable to observe for value of microme¬
ter, but have used the old one. One turn=78//.61 ; or, one division=0//.786.
One division of level used=0//.928, as determined by me at the Coast Survey Office.
The following is an example of the method of observation, record, and reduction :
If L=the latitude of the station, and and <?n, the declinations respectively of the two stars,
one north and the other south of the zenith, the difference of whose meridional zenith distances is
less than the arc embraced in the field of the telescope; fs and Cn, the true meridional zenith dis¬
tances of the south and nortlTstars ;
From the south star L=£s—Cs;
From the north star L=£n—Cn;
Then we have F=^(£s+Cn) + ^(C8—Cn).
#
Now, if z denote the observed zenith distance, N and S readings of the north and south ends
of the level, b the value of one division of the level-scale in arc, r the refraction, and m the reduction
to the meridian, we have—
£s— + i (Ns—S8) & + ^s—
^ (Nn Sn) b-\-rn 7Hn
hence (^s+^n) i+(#s—3n) +4 j P^s—Ss) + (Nn Sn j b
+ 4 (rs-rn) +4
If Ms and Mn be the micrometer readings of the south and north stars, the micrometer being
supposed to read from the zenith, and v the value of one division of the screw J (z8—zn) =J
(Ms—Mn) v ; or if, as in this instrument, the micrometer, readings increase as the zenith distances
decrease (Mn—Ms) v, then—
T {K+Ss) , Mn—Ms , {(Nn+Ns)—Sn+Ss) Y,.-t ( rs-rn\ ,
L=—-j—+—2—y +\ i )b + )+ 2
Latitude, station, Cocoanut Island, Caledonia Bay, New Granada.—Observations with zenith-telescope.—Reduction.—Observer, A. T. Mosman, Assistant, United States Coast Survey.
Date.
March. 15
March 16
March 14
March 15
March 17
March 16
March 17
Star.
!No.
B. A. C.
2460
2513
2460
2513
*2612
*2639
2612
2639
2612
12639
+2216
+2322
+2216
2322
or S.
N.
S.
N.
S.
s.
1ST.
S.
N.
S.
hr.
s.
2L
S.
N.
Micrometer.
Beading.
t. d.
28 75. 5
32 62. 0
29 54. 5
33 49.5
30 16.0
10 36. 5
30 8.5
10 50. 0
32 31. 0
12 55. 0
9 30.0
20 55. 0
9 28.5
20 52. 5
Diff. Z. D.
t. d.
-3 92.5
-3 95.0
•19 79. 5
-19 58. 5
•19 76.0
+11 25. 0
+11 24. 0
ÎT.
d.
36.0
32.5
68.5
44.3
31.0
75.3
38.0
35.0
73.0
27.0
32.0
59.0
39.0
36.0
75.0
38.7
37.6
76.3
33.8
42.0
75.8
Level.
S.
d.
40.0
43.0
83.0
33.5
47.0
80.5
34.0
36.5
70.5
48.4
44.0
92.4
38.0
40.5
78.5
38.7
40.4
79.1
41.2
34.0
75.2
Diff.
N.—S.
d.
-14.5
-5.2
+2.5
33.4
-3.5
-2.8
+5.6
Meridian
distance.
Sec.
21.5
25.0
29.5
Declination.
O f If
21 42 27. 05
-3 49 28. 45
27. 03
28. 47
2 5 38. 75
16 8 1.98
38. 73
2. 01
38. 67
2. 08
8 10 23. 81
9 22 36. 81
23.82
36.82
Sam and half-
sum.
it
o /
17 52 58. 60
8 56 29. 30
58. 56
29.28
18 13 40. 73
9 6 50. 36
40. 74
50. 37
40. 75
50. 38
17 33 0. 62
8 46 30. 31
0. 64
30. 32
Corrections.
Latitude.
Microm.
Level.
Befr.
Merid.
/ n
n
1!
n
O t ft
-2 34. 25
-3. 36
-0. 04
8 53 51. 65
—2 35. 20
-1.20
-0. 04
51.84
-12 57.94
+0. 58
-0. 23
-0.01
8 53 52. 76
-12 49. 69
-7. 75
-0.23
52.70
-12 56.57
-0. 81
-0. 23
52. 77
+7 22.12
-0.64
+0.13
-0. 03
8 53 51. 89
+7 21. 73
+ 0.14
+0.13
\
-0.04
52. 28
* Faint ; through clouds.
t Faint.
J Off meridian.
DABIEN SHIP-CANAL,
The following are the results for latitude of the~staticms :
Latitude of Aspinwall.
Pairs.
%
L —A
(L—iy
o / u
1449
9 22 15.68
1.52
2.31
1469
15. 64
1.48
2.19
1514
14.94
0.78
0.61
1526
14. 03
0.13
0.01
1557
0.21
1665
13.70
0.46
1591
2.28
1665
15.67
1.51
1684
14.02
0.14
0.02
0.00
1695 •
14.09
0.07
0.05
14. 38
0.22
1782
11.68
2.48
6.15
1827
11.35
2.81
7.90
1864
13.32
1896
17. 81
3.65
1945
15.21
1.05
1.10
0.31
14.72
0.56
1958
0. 31
0.10
14.47
•
1990
12.12
2. 04
4.16
2059
13.28
0.88
0.77
13.63
0.73
0.53
2163
2222
1.25
1.56
15.41
2307
0.69
0. 48
13.47
2410
2348
13.13
1.03
1.06
2410
14.19
0. 03
0.00
•s*
L=9 22 14.16 ±,0;/. 21
2(L — a,)s=45.12
* Correction to reduce to light-house = — 4".06. Latitude of light-house =
9° 22' 10".l ± 0".21.
Probable error of result
log 45.12.... 1 1.65437
log 0.4549 9.65792
ar comp log 21 X 22 = 462 7.33535
2)8.64764
eL0 = ± 9/,»21
9.32382
DABIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Latitude of Caledonia New Granada.
Pairs.
(L — 1)
(L — a)3
o / u
2211
8' 53 50.01
2. 01
4. 04
2304
52.23
0.21
0. 04
2216
51. 92
0.10
0. 01
2322
52. 36
0. 34
0.11
2410
2513
54.38
56.07
57. 04
2. 36
4. 05
5. 02
5. 57
16. 40
25.20
54.19
2.17
4.71
2460
51.65
0. 37
0.13
2513
51.84
0. 08
0. 01
54. 36
2. 34
5. 48
48.93
3.09
9. 55
2540
51.15
•
0. 87
0.76
2589
50. 69
1.33
1.77
48.21
3. 81
14.52
52.78
0.76
0. 58
2612
52.70
0. 68
0. 46
2639
53. 37
1.35
1.82
52.77
0.75
0. 56
■ 2778
2822
51.49
«
52. 42
0.53
0. 40
0. 28
0.16
53.97
1.95
3. 80
2872
2911
52.99
50. 40
0.97
1.62
0. 94
3. 84
50.33
..
1.70
2. 89
2872
2945
52. 83
50. 96
51.15
0.81
1.06
0. 87
0. 66
1.12
0.77
2958
2971
50.19
53.67
49. 93
1.83
1.75
2. 09
3. 65
2.72
4. 37
i
50.94
1.08
1.17
3032
51.11
0. 91
0. 82
3111
51. 66
0.36
0.13
51.27
0.75
0. 56
3170
3188
51.93
0.09
0. 01
3204
51.01
1.01
1.02
3222
52.32
0.30
0. 09
3359
53. 04
1.02
1.04
3406
51.09
0.93
0. 86
3444
3500
51. 65
0.37
ft
0.14
L = 8 53 ^ 52.02 ± 0". 18 2(L — a)'3 = 122.46
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Probable error of result.
log 122.46 2.08799
log 0.4549 9.65792
ar comp log 40 X 41 — 1640 6.78516
2)8.53107
eL0 = ± 0". 18 9.26554
Latitude of San Bias, New Granada.
Pairs.
A
(L — A)
(L - A)2
O / "
3204
9 29 59.40
1.26
1.59
3223
58.56
0.42
0.18
3398
55.94
2.20
4. 84
3407
3473
54.13
4. 01
3500
16. 08
3523
58.30
0.16
0. 03
3590
3633
55. 66
3646
2.48
» ~
6.15
3697
*
3728
60. 00
1.86
3.46
3798
59. 35
3838
1.21
1.46
3838
59.66
1.52
2.31
3850
59.96
1.82
3.31
3915
59. 34
0.20
0. 04
3946
• 59.42
0.28
0. 08
4002
56. 88
1.26
1.59
4031
58.79
0. 65
0.42
4145
60.32
2.18
4.75
4156
57.37
0.77
0.59
4196
57.99
4230
0.15
0.02
4242
56.60
1.54
2. 37
4268
1
57.37
0. 47
0.22
»
4301
58.26
0.12
0. 01
4340
57. 30
0.84
0.71
i
L = 9 29 58.14 ± 0". 23
2(L—2)2 = 50.21
Probable error of result
log 50.21 1.70079
log 0.4549 9.65792
ar comp log 20 X 21 = 420 7.37675
2)8.73546
eL0 = ± 0". 23 9. 36773
Mis. 113 25
194
DAEIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Owing to orders from the Hon. Secretary of the Navy, dated August 31, detaching me from
duty connected with the survey of the Isthmus of Darien, I am unable, as I could wish, to give
you the results for the triangulation of the Bay of San Bias, and the latitudes and longitudes of
the various stations, as I have not had time to compute them.
The triangulation of Caledonia Bay was left in such an unfinished condition by my sudden
departure for the survey of the Sassardi River as to render the computation of the latitudes and
longitudes of the various stations impossible for lack of the necessary data.
Yery respectfully, your obedient servant,
A. T. MOSMAN,
Assistant United States Coast Survey.
Commander T. O. Selfridge, U. S. N.,
Commanding Darien Surveying Expedition.
REPORT
UPON
THE ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE ON THE ISTHMUS OF DARIEN,
BY
J3T,YKE, JR., A-SSISTAJSTT UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY,
1S71.
Boston, Massachusetts, Tuesday morning, May 30,1871.
Dear Sir: The results of observations for geographical position made by me while acting as
astronomer to the United States Darien Expedition, 1870-71, under your command, are as follows :
Longitude west of Greenwich.
Observatory Island 511 7m 118.02 or 76° 47' 45".30
Panama 5 18 3.08 or 79 30 46 .20
Chepigana ..... 5 11 58.90 or 77 59 43 .50
Pinogana - 5 10 37 .36 or 77 39 20 .40
Latitude north of Equator.
Observatory Island 8° 8' 27".43
Pinogana . 8 7 24 .23
Chepigana 8 16 50 .81
In accordance with your wishes, I submit the following notes, explanatory of the instruments
and methods of computation by which these results have been obtained.
The latitude observations were made with zenith-telescope No. 2, an instrument loaned to the
expedition by the Coast Survey. It has an object-glass a trifle over 3 inches in diameter, the focal
length of which is 46 inches ; a diagonal eye-piece, power 61 ; an attached spirit-level of great deli¬
cacy, the value of one division of its scale being l//.06 ; and a filar micrometer, the thread of which
is moved by one revolution over a space of 44//.878. The head of the screw is divided into one
hundred parts by graduation, and as it is possible to divide each one of these divisions into tenths
by estimation, we see that an angular distance can be measured to the forty-five thousandth part
of one second of arc, (0//.045.) In practice, however, it is not desirable with this instrument to
record fractional parts of the screw-head divisions, each one of which has a value of 0//.44878.
According to Chauvenet, the method of finding the latitude by this instrument is one of the most
valuable improvements in practical astronomy of recent years, surpassing all previously known
methods (not excepting that of Bessel by prime vertical transits) in simplicity and in accuracy.
If information is wished in regard to the local incidents attending these observations, reference
may be made to the original record-book, which 1 forward with this report. In regard to the com¬
putations, it will only be necessary to say that they have been made in accordance with the formula
prepared for the Coast Survey, by Assistant C. A. Schott.
General expression for the latitude.—Let C and £' equal the true meridional zenith distance of
the southern and northern star, and ô and <$' the declination of the same, respectively, then the
expression for latitude is—
<p=!($+s1) J(C—c7)
Now if ^ zf denote the observed zenith distance of the south and north star, n s the north and
196
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
south reading of the level for the south star, and n's' the same for the north star, h the value of
one division of level, r and r' the refraction correction, and m and m' the reduction to the meridian
for the south and north star, respectively, then—
<P=l{8+5')+l{z—z')+\ \ (»+»')—(*+8/) } +i(r—r')+%(m'—m)
And if M and M7 be the micrometer readings of the south and north star, the micrometer being
supposed to read toward the zenith, and R the value of one division, then—
(M7—M)R
LONGITUDE DETERMINATIONS.
These were made with the following instruments : u Transit Ko. 11," loaned by the Coast Sur¬
vey, which has a focal length of 32 inches and an aperture of 2£ inches. The eye-piece attached
to this instrument was of low power and entirely unfit for use. I succeeded, however, in making
such changes as allowed me to use the zenith-telescope diagonal eye-piece (previously described) in
its place. At Pinogana, on the Tuyra River, the system of threads was destroyed, but the obser¬
vations were delayed but a few days in consequence, as I succeeded in replacing it by one, (of five
spider lines,) the results from which were in every way exceedingly satisfactory.
Chronometers Kegus Kos. 953, 1103,1281,1300,1311, and 1145. The five first mentioned
were regulated to mark mean solar time, and Ko. 1145 sidereal. The latter was always used in
connection with the transit observations, immediately after which it was compared with the others.
It is but just for me to bear witness here to the excellent notes which these chronometers main¬
tained throughout the expedition. During five years7 experience I have rarely, if ever, seen any
chronometers of American or foreign manufacture equal to these, and certainly none superior to
them.
The transit observations were reduced by application of the method of least squares. The
formula used was that prepared for use in the Coast Survey, by Assistant C. H. Schott.
Let—
A T0 = the chronometer correction ;
{ i } when 1I at an assumed middle time T0 ,•
ti t2 t3 = the observed times of the transit of a number of stars forming a group,
corrected for rate, inclination, and inequality of pivots ;
ai a2 a3.... = their right ascension ;
Ai A2 A3.. = their azimuthal factors ,# and
CiC2 C3... =.their collimation factors}
Let also—
ax — #! = Ti ;
a2 — t2 = T2 5
a3 — #3 = T3 ;
&c., &c. ) and
AT° = AT + ST when ST is an unknown correction to an assumed chronometer correction AT.
Also let—
t\ — AT — d\ y
t2 — AT = daj
#3 = JT = d3 ;
&c.
The values of a, c, and ST are then to be found from the conditional equations, from which
we form the normal equations :
1ST + TaA + IcC = Sd.
1ST, A + IaA2 + ScOj A = ZdA.
1ST, C + ZaA, C + IcC2 = IdC.
The factors A, B, and C, were obtained as follows :
A = sin (<p — <5) sec S.
A = cos (<p — S) sec S.
C = sec S
and are given in tables.
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
197
For a full discussion of the use of the transit instrument, reference may be made to Professor
W. Chauvenet's Manual on Spherical and Practical Astronomy, Philadelphia, 1863, vol. ii, pp.
131-209.
The final longitude determinations, with the exception of one case, were the results of cliro-
nometric expeditions. The difference of longitude between Aspinwall and Panama was deduced
from a comparison between the five mean solar chronometers at the former station with the sidereal
chronometer at the latter, by means of signals sent by the electric telegraph between the two
points. Discussions of all these experiments will be found in the accompanying two volumes of
Observations for Time and Longitude.
Meridian lines were established at the mouth of the Atrato Biver and at Pinogana on the
river'Tuyra.
Yery respectfully,
F. BLAKE, Jr.,
Sub-Assistant United States Coast Survey,
Astromomer to United States Darien Expedition.
Commander Thomas O. Selfridge, U. S. N.,
Commanding United States Darien Expedition,
Isthmus of Darien^ United States of Colombia.
COMPUTATION OF LATITUDE OBSERVATIONS AT OBSERVATORY ISLAND, GULF OF DARIEN, UNITED
STATES OF COLOMBIA.
[Observations made in January and February, 1871 ; observations computed in April and May, 1871, by F. Blake, Jr.]
Computation of mean places at 1871.0 of latitude stars at Observatory Island, Gulf of Darien.
•
o
fe
B. A. C.
•
O
<
a
A
h.
m. s.
o
/
H
1162
3
38 49
84
21
23
1174
41 12
79
15
22
1212
46 19
95
44
54
1221
3
49 15
67
53
42
1296
4
6 36
82
36
55
1298
6 56
81
3
57
1369
19 0
74
40
40
1386
21 52
88
54
24
1431
30 35
89
15
54
1436
31 48
74
27
26
1529
50 3
95
22
45
1551
4
55 23
68
35
47
1617
5
7 17
103
5
15
1649
12 50
60
33
56
1660
15 11
90
30
45
1689
18 39
73
24
59
1852
43 9
75
44
5
1869
5
45 45
88
10
41
2002
6
7 5
67
27
29
2015
8 34
96
14
18
Greenwich
7-year.
1860.
a
20
46
56
41
49
31
16
1864.
h
21
20
54
44
56
27
54
24
40
49
46
62
4
44
30
e8 m
O OO
A ^
fci) <tT
s s
a ©
h
43
53
43
©
-M
•pH
rt
bfl
cS
S
6
5
6
6
6
5|
5}
51
6
51
6
41
5
61
51
6
6
51
4
41
1871.0.
o t
84 21
79 15
95 44
67 53
82 36
81 3
74 40
88 54
89 15
74 27
'95 22
68 35
103 5
60 33
90 30
73 25
75 44
88 10
67 27
96 14
h
22.0
20.7
54.0
44.0
55.5
56.5
41.5
25.5
54.0
25.0
42.0
48.3
45.5
54. 5
44.0
0. 5
4.5
42.5
30.0
17.0
198
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Computation of apparent places of B. A. 0. stars, observed for latitude.
PAIR No. I.
B. A. C. No. 1162.
Date.
A
a'
y
e'
d!
Sum.
January 27
February 6
84° 21' 22". 0
+ 5 38 38 .0
— 1.0615
— 9.5477
— 1.1444
4- 1.2078
— 8.7522
4- 1.1358
— 9.3780
— 1.0669
— 9.3238
4- 0.1571
4-9.9103
4- 0.0631
4- 0.6092
4- 0.6921
— 9. 9600
— 9.8880
4- 0.4449
4- 0.3907
4- 0.0674
4- 9.9734
+ 5 38 30 .9
+5 38 30 .4
-f- 4". 07
4-4 .92
— 0". 91
— 0 .77
4- 2". 79
4-2 .46
4- 1". 17
4-0 .94
4-7".l
4-7 .6
B. A.
C. No. 1174.
-
79° 15' 20". 7
4-10 44 39 .3
— 1.0615
— 9.4387
— 1.1444
*
4- 1.2078
— 9. 0263
4-1.1358
— 9.3780
— 1.0607
— 9.3238
4- 0.1571
4- 9.9134
4- 0. 0631
4-0.5002
4- 0.5831
— 0.2341
— 0.1621
4- 0.4387
-f- 0. 3845
-f- 0. 0705
4-9.9765
4-10 44 33 .9
4-10 44 33 .5
4- 3".16
4-3 .83
—1".71
— 1 .45
4- 2".75
4-2 .42
4-1".18
4-0 .95
4- 5". 4
4-5 .8
PAIR No. II.
B. A.
C. No. 1212.
Date.
A
a'
y
c!
d'
Sum.
•
95° 44' 54". 0
— 5 44 54 .0
— 1.0615
— 9.7127
— 1.1444
4-1.2078
4- 8.7495
4- 1.1358
— 8.3780
— 1.0461
— 9.3238
4- 0.1571
4- 9.9202
4- 0. 0631
-
4- 0.7742
4- 0.8571
4- 9.9573
4- 9.8853
4- 0.4241
4- 0.3699
4- 0. 0773
4- 9.9833
-
— 5 45 4.7
— 5 45 5.3
4- 5". 95
4-7 .20
-f- 0". 91
4-0 .77
-f- 2". 66
4-2 .34
4- 1".19
4-0 .96
4-10". 7
4-11 .3
B. A. C. No. 1221.
67° 53' 44". 0
4-22 6 16 . 0
— 1. 0615
— 8.9415
— 1.1444
4- 1.2078
— 9.3104
4- 1.1358
— 9.3780
— 1.0383
— 9. 3238
4- 0.1571
4- 9.9236
-}- 0. 0631
; «"
4- 0.0030
4- 0.0859
— 0.5182
— 0. 4462
4- 0. 4163
4- 0.3621
4- 0. 0807
4- 9. 9867
4-22 6 14 .5
4-22 6 14 .3
4-1". 01
4-1 .22
— 3".30
— 2 .79
4- 2". 61
4-2 .30
4-I 7.20
4-0 .97
4-1". 5
4-1 .7
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
199
Computation of apparent places of B. A. 0. stars, observed for latitude.
PAIR No. IJI.
B. A. C. Ko. 1296.
Date.
A
a'
y
c'
d'
Sum.
82° 36' 55". 5
+ 7 23 4.5
— 1.0615
— 9.5030
— 1.1444
41.2078
— 8.7862
4 1.1358
— 9.3780
— 0.9827
— 9.3238
4 0.1571
4 9.9434
4 0. 0631
-
4 0.5645
4 0. 6474
— 9.9940
— 9. 9220
4 0.3607
4 0.3065
4 0.1005
4 0. 0065
i.
+ 7 22 58 .5
+ 7 22 57 .8
4 3". 67
44 .44
— 0". 99
— 0 .84
4 2. "29
42 .03
4 1". 26
4 1 .02
4 6". 0
46 .7
B. A.
C. Ko. 1298.
81° 3' 56". 5
+ 8 56 3.5
— 1. 0615
— 9.4672
— 1.1444
4 1.2078
— 8.8679
4 1.1358
— 9. 3780
— 0.9816
— 9.3238
4 0.1571
4 9.9437
4 0.0631
4 0.5287
4 0.6116
— 0.0757
— 0.0037
4-0.3596
4 0.3054
4 0.1008
4 0.0068
, + 8 55 57 .8
+ 8 55 57 .4
4 3". 38
4 4 .09
— 1".19
— 1 .01
4 2". 29
42 .02
4 1". 26
4 1 .02
4 5". 7
46 .1
PAIR No. IV.
B. A. C. Ko. 1369.
Date.
A
a'
y
c'
à'
Sum.
74° 40' 41". 5
4 15 19 18 . 5
— 1.0615
— 9.2577
— 1.1444
4 1.2078
— 9.0554
41.1358
— 9. 3780
— 0.9370
— 9.3238
4 0.1571
4 9.9553
4 0. 0631
4 0.3192
4 0.4021
— 0.2632
— 0.1912
4 0.3150
4 0.2608
4 0.1124
4 0. 0184
+ 15 19 14 .9
+ 15 19 14 .7
4 2".09
4 2 .52
— 1".83
— 1 .55
9
4 2".07
41 .82
4 1".30
41 .04
4 3". 6
43 .8
B. A.
C. Ko. 1386.
88° 54' 25". 5
41 5 34 .5
— 1.0615
— 9.6206
— 1.1444
4 1.2078
— 7.8835
4 1.1358
— 9.3780
— 0.9250
— 9. 3238
4 0.1571
4 9.9580
4 0. 0631
•
4 0.6821
4 0.7650
— 9.0913
— 9.0193
4 0.3030
4 0.2488
4 0.1151
4 0. 0211
4 1 5 26 .5
4 1 5 26 .0
4 4". 81
45 .82
— 0. "12
— 0. 11
4 2".01
41 .77
4 1". 30
41 .05
4 8". 0
48 .5
200
DAEIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Computation of apparent places of B. A. C. stars, observed for latitude,
PAIR No. V.
B. A. C. No. 1431.
Date.
A
a'
/
V
y
d'
Sum.
89° 15' 54". 0
+ 0 44 6.0
— 1.0615
— 9.6261
— 1.1444
+ 1.2078
— 7. 6660
+ 1.1358
— 9.3780
— 0. 8873
— 9. 3238
+ 0.1571
+ 9.9652
+ 0. 0631
•
+ 0.6876
+ 0.7705
— 8. 8738
— 8.8018
+ 0.2653
+ 0.2111
+ 0.1223
+ 0. 0283
+ 0 43 58 .0
+ 0 43 57 .5
+ 4". 87
+ 5 .90
— 0". 07
— 0 .06
+1".84
+ 1 .63
+ 1".33
+ 1 .07
+ 8". 0
+ 8 .5
B. A.
C. No. 1436.
74° 27' 25". 0
+ 15 32 35 . 0
— 1.0615
— 9.2330
— 1.1444
+ 1.2078
— 9. 0070
+ 1.1358
— 9.3780
— 0.8823
— 9.3238
+ 0.1571
+ 9. 9661
+ 0.0631
+ 0.2945
+ 0.3774
— 0.2148
— 0.1428
+ 0.2603
+ 0.2061
+ 0.1232
+ 0.0292
•
+ 15 32 31 .5
+ 15 32 31 .3
+1". 97
+ 2. 37
— 1".64 *
— 1. 39
V
+1". 82
+ 1 .61
+ 1".33
+ 1 .07
+ 3". 5
+ 3.7
PAIR No. VI.
B. A. C. No. 1529.
Date.
A
a'
y
c'
d!
Sum.
95° 22/ 42". 0
— 5 22 42 .0
— 1.0615
— 9.7176
— 1.1444
+1.2078
+ 8.4588
+ 1.1358
— 9. 3780
— 0.7862
— 9.3238
+ 0.1571
+ 9.9788
+ 0. 0631
+ 0.7791
+ 0. 8620
+ 9.6666
+ 9.5946
+ 0.1642
+ 0.1100
+ 0.1359
+ 0. 0419
\
■ -
— 5 22 55 .5
— 5 22 55 .6
+ 6".01
+ 7 .28
+ 4". 64
+ 3. 93
+1".46
+ 1 .29
+1".37
+ 1 .10
+ 13". 5
+ 13 .6
B. A.
C. No. 1551.
•
68° 35' 48. "3
+ 21 24 11 .7
— 1.0615
. — 8.7372
— 1.1444
+ 1.2078
— 9. 0141
+1.1358
— 9.3780
— 0.7547
— 9.3238
+ 0.1571
+ 9.9818
+ 0.0631
+ 9.7987
+ 9.8816
— 0.2219
— 0.1499
+ 0.1327
+ 0. 0785
+ 0.1389
+ 0.0449
+ 21 24 10 .0
+ 21 24 10 .0
+ 0".63
+ 0 .76
— 1". 67
— 1 .41
+1". 36
+ 1 .20
+ 1". 38
+ 1 .11
+1". 7
+ 1.7
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
201
Computation of apparent places of B. A. C. stars, observed for latitude.
PAIR No. VII.
B. A. C. No. 1617.
Date.
A
a'
y
c'
d'
Sum.
103° 5' 45". 5
— 1.0615
4- 1.2078
— 9. 3780
4- 0.1571
— 9. 8085
4- 8.7219
— 0.6680
4- 9.9880
— 13 5 45 .5
— 1.1444
4- 1.1358
— 9.3238
4- 0. 0631
-f 0.8700
4- 9.9297
4- 0.0460
4- 0.1451
4- 0.9529
4- 9.8577
4- 9.9918
4- 0. 0511
— 13 5 46 .3
4- 7".41
4- 0". 85
4-1". il
4- 1". 40
4- 10". 8
— 13 5 47 .3
+ 8. 97
4-0 .72
4-0 .98
4-1 .12
4-11 .8
B. A. C. No. 1649.
60° 33' 54". 5
— 1.0615
4- 1.2078
— 9.3780
4- 0.1571
-f- 9.0095
— 9.0119
— 0.6230
4- 9.9903
4- 29 26 5.5
— 1.1444
4- 1.1358
— 9. 3238
4- 0.0631
— 0.0710
— 0.2197
4- 0. 0010
4- 0.1474
— 0.1539
— 0.1477
4- 9.9468
4- 0.0534
-f 29 26 5.9
— 1". 18
— 1". 66
4- 1". 00
4- 1". 40
— 0". 4
-f 29 26 6.3
— 1 .42
— 1 .41
+ 0 .88
4-1 .13
— 0 .8
PAIR No. VIII.
B. A.
C. No. 1660.
*
Date.
A
a'
y
c'
d'
Sum.
90° 30' 44". 0
— 1.0615
4- 1.2078
— 9.3780
4-0.1571
— 9.6465
4- 7.2691
— 0,6009
4- 9.9912
— 0 30 44 .0
— 1.1444
4- 1.1358
— 9.3238
4- 0.0631
+ 0.7080
4- 8. 4769
4- 9. 9789
4- 0.1483
4- 0.7909
4- 8.4049
4- 9. 9247
4- 0.0543
— 0 30 51 .5
-1- 5". 11
4- 0". 03
4- 0". 95
4-1". 41
4- 7. "5
— 0 30 52 .2
+ 6 .18
4- 0 .03
4-0 .84
4-1 .13
4-8 .2
B. A. C. No. 1689.
73° 25' 0". 5
— 1.0615
4- 1.2078
— 9.3780
4- 0.1571
— 9.1329
— 8.7213
— 0.5686
4- 9.9925
4-16 34 59 .5
— 1.1444
4-1.1358
— 9.3238
4- 0. 0631
4- 0.1944
— 9. 9291
4- 9.9466
4- 0.1496
4- 0.2773
— 9.8571
4- 9.8924
4- 0.0556
4- 16 34 56 .5
4- 1". 56
lO
GO
•
O
1
4- 0". 88
4-l//.41
4- 3". 0
4-16 34 56 .4
4-1 .89
c*
ï>
•
o
1
4-0 .78
4-1 .14
4~ 3 .1
H. Mis. 113 26
202
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Computation of apparent places B. A. C. stars, observed for latitude,
PAIR No. IX.
B. A. C. No. 1852.
Date.
A
a'
V
e'
d1
Sum.
75° 44' 4". 5
— 1.0615
+1. 2078
— 9. 3780
+ 0.1571
'
— 9.2433
— 8.2873
— 0.1981
+ 9.9987
+ 14 15 55 . 5
— 1.1444
+ 1.1358
— 9.3238
+ 0. 0631
+ 0.3048 1
— 9. 4951
+ 9.5761
+ 0.1558
+ 0. 3877
— 9.4231
+ 9.5219
+ 0. Q618
i
+ 14 15 52 .0
+ 2". 02
— 0". 31
+ 0". 38
+ 1". 43
+ 3". 5
+ 14 15 51 .8
+ 2 .44
— 0 .26
+ 0 .33
+ 1 .15
+ 3 .7
B. A.
C. No. 1869.
88° 10' 42". 5
- 1.0615
+ 1.2078
— 9.3780
+ 0.1571
— 9.6043
— 7.3259
— 0.1276
+ 9.9990
+ 1 49 17 .5
— 1.1444
+ 1.1358
— 9.3238
+ 0. 0631
+ 0. 6658
— 8.5337
+ 9. 5056
+ 0.1561
+ 0. 7487
— 8.4617
+ 9.4514
+ 0.0621
+ 1 49 11 .1
+ 4". 63
— 0". 03
+ 0".32
+ 1".43
+ 6". 4
+1 49 10 .5
+ 5 .61
— 0 .03
+ 0 .28
+ 1 .15
+ 7 .0
PAIR No. X.
B. A. C. No. 2002.
Date.
A
a1
V
e'
d'
Sum.
67° 27' 30". 0
— 1.0615
+ 1.2078
— 9.3780
+ 0.1571
— 8.2430
+ 7.9885
+ 9.7070
+ 9.9999
+ 22 32 30 .0
— 1.1444
+ 1.1358
— 9. 3238
+ 0.0631
+ 9. 3045
+ 9.1963
— 9. 0850
+ 0.1570
+ 9.3874 .
+ 9.1243
— 9.0308
+ 0.0630
+ 22 32 28 . 3
+ 0". 20
+ 0". 16
— 0". 12
— 1".44
+1". 7
+ 22 32 28 .6
+ 0 .24
+ 0 .13
— 0 .11
— 1 .16
+ 1 .4
B. A.
C. No. 2015.
96° 14' 17". 0
— 1.0615
+ 1.2078
— 9.3780
+ 0.1571
— 9.7323
— 7.5529
+ 9.8194
+ 9.9998
— 16 14 17 .0
— 1.1444
+ 1.1358
— 9. 3238
+ 0.0631
+ 0.7938
— 8.7607
— 9.1974
+ 0.1569
+ 0. 8767
— 8. 6887
— 9.1432
+ 0.0629
- 6 14 24 .4
+ 6".22
— 0". 06
— 0". 16
+ 1".44
+ 7". 4
|
— 6 14 25 .5
+ 7 .53
— 0 .05
+ 0 .14
-1-1 .16
+ 8.5
Table of Micrometer Values.
No.
Turns.
Tenths.
Hundredths.
Thousandths.
No.
Turns.
Tenths.
Hundredths.
Thousandths.
//
u
//
if
//
//
//
//
1
44. 878
4. 488
0. 449
0. 045
6
269. 268
26. 927
2. 693
.269
2
89. 756
8. 976
0. 898
.090
7
314.146
31.415
3.141
.314
3
134. 634
13. 463
1. 346
.135
8
359. 024
34. 902
3. 590
.359
4
179. 512
17. 951
1. 795
. 180
9
403. 902
40. 390
4. 039
.404
5
224. 390
22. 439
2. 244
.224
10
448. 780
STATION AT OBSERVATORY ISLAND, GULF OF DARIEN, UNITED STATES OF COLOMBIA. COMPUTATION OF LATITUDE.
[Observations with zenith telescope No. 2. One division of level = 1.06". One turn of micrometer = 44.878".]
PAIR No. I.
Rate.
f
Star.
Micrometer.
Level.
Meridian
distance.
Reclination.
Sum and half
sum.
Corrections.
Latitude.
No.
B. A. C.
N. or S.
Reading.
Riff. Z. R.
N.
S.
Riff.
N.—S.
Microm.
Level.
Refr.
Merid.
1871.
•Ta Tin aw 27
1162
1174
S.
N.
t. d.
21. 780
13. 320
20. 400
11. 780
22.120
13. 685
t. d.
-8. 460
-4. 230
-8. 620
-4. 310
-8. 435
-4.218
20.5
10.0
21.5
16. 5
26. 5
6.0
6.0
16.5
5.0
10.0
0.5
21.0
+ 8.0
+ 2.00
+23.0
+ 5.75
+ 11.0
+ 2.75
s.
O ! II
+ 5 38 30. 9
+10 44 33. 9
+ 5 38 30.7
+ 10 44 33.8
+ 5 38 30. 6
+ 10 44 33.6
o / //
+16 23 4. 8
+ 8 11 32. 40
+ 16 23 4.5
+ 8 11 32. 25
+ 16 23 4.2
+ 8 11 32.10
1 u
//
//
//
o / //
.Tamiarv 30
-3 9.83
+2.12
— 0. 05
8 8 24. 64
PphrnflTv a
-3 13. 42
+ 6.10
-0. 05
24. 88
"Wean . ......
-3 9.30
+ 2. 92
—0. 05
25. 67
8 8 25. 06
PAIR No. II.
.Tpimarv 27
1212
1221
S.
N.
19. 750
13. 925
20. 010
14. 070
21.120
15. 220
-5. 825
-2. 912
— 5. 940
-2. 970
-5. 900
-2. 950
14.0
19.0
18.0
20.0
12.5
24.5
12.0
7.0
8.5
6.5
14.0
2.0
+ 14.0
+ 3.50
+ 23.0
+ 5.75
+ 21.0
+ 5. 25
— 5 45 4. 7
+ 22 6 14. 5
— 5 45 4. 9
+22 6 14. 4
— 5 45 5.1
+22 6 14. 4
+ 16 21 9. 8
+ 8 10 34. 90
+ 16 21 9.5
+ 8 10 34. 75
+ 16 21 9.3
+ 8 10' 34. 65
•Ta una,1^0
-2 10. 68
+3. 71
-0. 03
8 8 27. 90
TTpTivnaTv 3
-2 13. 29
+ 6.10
-0. 03
27.53
-2 12.39
+5. 56
-0. 03
27. 79
8 8 27. Î4
PAIR No. m.
1296
1298
S.
N.
18.115
15. 250
18.700
16.135
19.180
16. 580
-2. 865
-1. 432
-2. 565
-1. 282
-2. 600
-1.300
10.5
19.5
8.0
14.0
19.0
6.5
15.0
6.0
18.0
12. 0
8.0
20.5
+ 9.0
+2.25
-8.0
-2.00
-3.0
-0. 75
+7 22 58. 5
+ 8 55 57.8
+ 7 22 58.3
+ 8 55 57.7
+ 7 22 57. 9 .
+ 8 55 57.4
+16 18 56. 3
+ 8 9 28.15
+16 18 56. 0
+ 8 9 28. 00
+ 16 18 55. 3
+ 8 9 27. 65
42
-1 4.26
+ 2. 38
-0. 02
+ 0.15
*[8 8 26.40]
- 57.53
-2.12
-0. 02
28.33
- 58.34
-0. 80
-0. 02
28. 49
8 8 28. 41
* Very faint through clouds ; observation not satisfactory. Reject.
STATION AT OBSERVATORY ISLAND, GULF OF DARIEN, UNITED STATES OF COLOMBIA, &c.—Continued.
PAIE No. IY.
Date.
Star.
Micrometer.
Level.
Meridian
distance.
Declination.
Sum and half-
sum.
Corrections.
Latitude.
No.
B. A. C.
N. or S.
Reading.
Diff. Z. D.
N.
S.
Diff.
N.-S.
Microm.
Level.
' Refr.
Merid.
1871.
January 30
1369
1386
N.
S.
t. d.
11. 660
22.200
11.265
21. 870
t. d.
-10. 540
- 5.270
-10. 605
- 5.302
10.5
18.0
9.5
24.0
15.5
8.0
17.5
3.0
-t- 5.0
4- 1.25
4-13.0
4- 3.25
s.
O III
-1-15 19 14. 8
4- 1 5 26. 3
4-15 19 14. 7
4- 1 5 26.0
O 11/
4-16 24 41.1
4- 8 12 20. 55
4-16 24 40. 7
4- 8 12 20. 35
/ //
//
tf
//
O / //
February 5
-3 36. 51
4-1. 32
-0. 07
8 8 25.29
-3 57. 94
4-3 44
-0. 07
• 25. 78
8 8 25.54
PAIR No. Y.
January 27
1431
1436
S.
N.
17. 650
18.110
17.100
17. 765
17. 040
17. 605
4-0. 460
4-0. 230
4-0. 665
4-0. 332
4-0.565
4-0.282
15.0
18.5
8.5
18.3
18.0
9.0
11.0
7.5
17.5
8.0
9.0
17.5
4-15.0
+ 3.75
4-1.0
4- 0.25
4- 0. 5
4- 0.12
4- 0 43 58. 0
4-15 32 31. 5
4- 0 43 57. 8
4-15 32 31.4
4- 0 43 57. 6
4-15 32 31. 3
4-16 16 29.5
4-8 8 14. 75
4-16 16 29.2
4-8 8 14. 6
4-16 16 28.9
4-8 8 14. 45
January 30
4-10. 32
4-3. 98
4-0.00
8 8 29. 05
February 5
4-14. 90
4-0.26
4-0. 00
29. 76
4-12. 66
N
4-0.13
4-0.00
*[27. 24]
8 8 29. 40
? PAIR No. YI.
J anuary 27
1529
1551
S.
N.
8. 840
29. 480
8. 435
29.185
7. 990
28.785
4-20.640
4-10.320
4-20. 750
4-10.375
4-20. 795
4-10.398
16.0
17.5
15.0
14.5
12.5
16.0
10.0
8.5
11.0
11.5
14.0
10.5
4-15.0
4- 3.75
4-7.0
4- 1.75
+ 4.0
4-1.0
- 5 22 55. 5
4-21 24 10.0
- 5 22 55. 5
4 21 24 10.0
- 5 22 55. 6
4-21 24 10. 0
4-16 1 14. 5
4- 8 0 37.25
4-16 1 14.5
4- 8 0 37.25
4-16 1 14. 4
4- 8 0 37.20
January 30
4-7 43.14
4-3.98
4-0.14
8 8 24. 51
February 5
4-7 45. 61
j
4-1.86
4-0.14
24. 86
4-7 46. 64 I
t
4-1.06 !
4-0.14
25. 04
8 8 24. 80
PAIE No. VU
January 27
1617
1649
S.
N.
19.340
14. 640
19.290
14. 750
18. 955
14. 425
-4. 700
-2. 350
-4. 540
-2.270
-4. 530
-2.265
10.5
26.0
15.5
15.0
13.0
18.0
15.5
0.0
10.5
11.0
13.5
8.5 '
+21. 0
+ 5.25
+ 9.0
+ 2.25
- 9.0
+ 2.25
-13 5 46.3
- +29 26 5. 9
-33 5 46.6
+29 26 6. 0
-13 5 47.2
+29 26 6. 3
+16 20 19. 6
+ 8 10 9.80
+ 16 20 19.4
+ 8 10 9. 70
+ 16 20 19.1
+ 8 10 9.55
January 30
-1 45.76
+5. 56
+ 0. 04
8 8 29. 86
February 5
-1 41. 87
+2.38
-0. 04
30.17
-1 41. 65
+2. 38
-0. 04
30.24
8 8 30. 09
PAIE No.V in.
January 27
1660
1689
S.
N.
9. 875
26. 860
9. 815
27. 000
9. 750
26. 815
9. 580
26. 835
+16. 985
+ 8.492
+17.185
+ 8.592
+17. 065
+ 8.532
+17. 255
+ 8.628
13.0
21.0
15.0
5.0
+ 12.0
4- 3.00
+ 0 30 51.5
+ 16 34 56.5
+16 4 5.0
+ 8 2 2.50
January 30
+6 21.10
+3.18
+ 0.11
*[8 8 26. 89]
February 3
9.5
24.5
17.0
9.5 '
17.0
2.0
9.5
17.0
+15.0
+ 3. 75
+ 0.0
+ 0.00
- 0 30 52. 0
+ 16 34 56.4
- 0 30 52.1
+ 16 34 56.4
+ 16 4 4.4
+ 8 2 2.20
+ 16 4 4.3
+ 8 2 2.15
February 5
+ 6 22.90
+ 3.98
+ 0.11
29.19
•
+ 6 27.21
+0. 00
+ 0.11
29. 47
8 8 29. 33
•
PAIE No. IX.
January 27
1852
1869
N.
S.
24. 840
9. 215
25.105
9.255
+15. 625
+ 7.812
+15. 850
+ 7.925
15.0
22.0
15.5
12.0
11.0
4.0
10.0
13.5
+22.0
+ 5.50
+ 4.0
+ 1.00
+ 14 15 52.0
+ 1 49 11.1
+ 14 15 51.9
+ 1 49 10. 9
+ 16 5 3.1
+ 8 2 31. 55
+16 5 2.8
+ 8 2 31. 40
anuary 30
+5 50. 59
+ 5. 83
+0.10
8 8 28.07
+5 55. 66
+1.06
+0.10
28 22
8 8 28.14
PAIE No. X.
January 27
2002
2015
N.
S.
17. 570
19. 470
17. 930
19. 655
-1.900
-0. 950
-1. 725
-0. 862
14.0
24.5
15.0
15.0
12.0
1.5
10.5
10.5
+ 25.0
+ 6.25
+ 9.0
+ 2.25
+22 32 28. 3
- 6 14 24. 4
+22 32 28. 4
- 6 14 24. 4
i
+16 18 3. 9
+ 8 9 1.95
+16 18 4. 0
+ 8 9 2.00
January 30
-42. 63
+ 6. 62
-0. 02
8 8 25. 92
-38. 68
+2. 38
-0. 02
•
25.68
8 8 25. 80
* Eeject.
t Very faint, through clouds. Eeject.
206 BARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Final results for latitude of Observatory Island.
Pair.
Latitude.
Mean.
No.
O / //
o / //
8 8 24.64
1
24.88
8 8 25.06
25.67'
27.90
2
27.53
27,74
27.79
3
28. 33
28.41
. 28. 49
4
25.29
25.78
25. 54
29. 05
5
29.76
29. 40
24. 51
6
24. 86
24.80
25. 04
29. 86
7
30.17
30. 09
30.24
•29.19
8
29. 47
29. 33
28. 07
9
28.22
28.14
25. 92
10
25. 68
25. 80
Mean
8 8 27.43
Adopted value of the Observatory Island latitude is 8° 8' 27". 43 north.
COMPUTATION OF LATITUDE OBSERVATIONS AT CHEPIGANA, TUYRA RIVER, UNITED STATES OF
COLOMBIA.
[Observations made in March, 1871 ; observations computed in April and May, 1871, by F. Blake, jr.]
Computation of mean places at 1871.0 of latitude-stars at Chepigana, Tuyra River, South America.
B. A. C.
Greenwich 7 year.
Armaugh.
A
B.A.C.
May.
a
A
(1860.)
(1864.)
(1859.)
1871. 0.
No.
h. m. s.
o
/ //
//
//
o / //
2410
7 12 25
67
46 57
58
58
3
67 46 57.7
2437
16 6
95
44 23
6
95 44 21.5
*2522
■
2564
39 10
78
55 7
11
6
78 55 9.0
2653
7 51 40
87
26 2
2
6
87 26 2. 0
2720
8 1 30
75
59 11
8
9
6
75 59 9. 3
2778
9 31
80
25 8
8
7
4
80 25 7.7
2889
29 0
82
55 48
55
6
82 55 51.5
12945
36 29
86
8 3
•
24
5
12970
39 52
77
25 5
7
5
6
* a Canis Minoris—place given in American Ephemeris.
t Places are not satisfactory.
DABIEN SHIP-CANAL.
207
Computation of apparent places of B. A. C. stars, observed for latitude.
PATH No. I.
B. A. C. No. 2410.
Date.
Right ascension.
a'
1)'
' c'
(V
Sura.
1871.
March 10
67° 46' 57". 7
67 46 58 .4
+22 13 1.6
— 8.6128
— 1.2668
+ 9.8796
+ 0". 76
+ 9. 0634
+ 0.5410
+ 9.6044
+ 0".40
+ 0. 7873
— 9.1458
+ 9. 9331
— 0". 86
+ 9. 9787
+ 9. 6224
+ 9. 6011
+ 0". 40
-f 0".7
B. A. C. No. 2437.
95° 44' 21". 5
95 44 30 .6
— 5 44 30 .6
l
— 9.7209
— 1.2668
-j~ 0. 9877
+ 9". 72
— 8. 5046
+ 0. 5410
— 9. 0456
— 0". 11
+ 0. 8097
— 9.1458
— 95 9555
— 0". 90
+ 9.9763
+ 9. 6224
+ 9.5987
+ 0". 40
+ 9". 1
PAIR No. II.
B. A. C. No. 2522.
Date.
North polar distance.
a'
b'
d
d'
Sum.
a Canis Minoris.
— 9.5339
— 1.2668
+ 0. 8007
+ 6".32
+ 8.5792
-f 0. 5410
+ 9.1202
+ 0".13
+ 0. 8916
— 9.1458
— 0.0374
— 1". 09
+ 9. 9645
+ 9.6224
+ 9. 5869
+ ". 039
00
+
B. A. C. No. 2504.
78° 55' 9". 0
78 55 [13 .1
11 4 46 .9
— 9. 3981
— 1.2668
+ 0.6649
+ 4".62
+ 8.9034
+ 0.5410
+ 9. 4444
+0".28
+ 0. 9200
— 9.1458
— 0. 0658
— 1". 16
+ 9.9590
+ 9.6224
#
+ 9. 5814
+ 0". 38
+ 4". 1
208
DABIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Computation of apparent places of B.A. (7. stars, observed for latitude,
PAIR No. III.
13. A. C. No. 2653.
Date.
Right ascension.
a'
¥
d
d'
Sum.
1871.0
87° 26' 2". 0
87 26 8 .4
2 33 51 .6
9.5944
— 1.2668
4- 0.8612
-f 7". 26
+ 8.3266
-f 0.5410
~f 8. 8676
-f 0". 07
4- 0.9687
— 9.1458
— 0.1145
— 1".30
4- 9. 9474
4- 9. 6224
4- 9. 5698
4- 0". 37
4- 6". 4
B. A. C. No. 2720.
75° 59' 9". 3
75 59 12.6
14 0 47 .4
— 9.3233
— 1.2668
-f 0.5901
+ 3".89
4- 9. 0859
4- 0. 5410
4- 9. 6269
4- 0".42
4-1. 0022
— 9.1458
— 0.1480
—1".41
4- 9.9372
4- 9. 6224
4- 9.5596
4- 0". 36
4- 3". 3
«ft
PAIR No. IY.
B. A. C. No. 2778.
1
Date.
North polar distance.
a'
¥
d
dl
Sum.
80° 25' 7". 7
80 25 12 .2
9 34 47 .8
— 9.4562
— 1.2668
-f 0.7230
4- 5". 28
4- 8.9494
4- 0. 5410
4- 9. 4904
4- 0".31
4- 1. 0276
— 9.1458
— 0.1734
— 1". 49
4- 9.9280
4- 9.6224
4- 9. 5504
4- 0". 36
+ 4". 5
B. A. C. No. 2889.
82° 55' 51". 5
82 55 56 .5
7 4 3.5
— 9. 5202
— 1.2668
+ 0.7870
+ 6". 12
4- 8. 8737
4- 0.5410
4- 9, 4147
4- 0". 26
4-1.0814
— 9.1458
— 0.2272
— 1". 69
4- 9. 9025
4- 9. 6224
4- 9. 5249
4- 0". 34
4-5".o
STATION AT CHEPIGANA, TUYRA EIVER, UNITED STATES OF COLOMBIA.—COMPUTATION OF LATITUDE.
[Observations witb zenitb-telescope No. 2. One division of level = 1". 06 ; one turn of micrometer = 44". 878.]
PAIR No. I.
Date.
Star.
Micrometer.
Level.
Meridian
distance.
Declination.
Sum and half
sum.
Corrections.
Latitude.
No.
B. A. C.
N.
S.
Reading.
Diff. Z. D.
N.
S.
Diff.
N.—S.
Microm.
Level.
Refr.
Merid.
1871.
March 10 ...
2410
2437
N.
S.
t d.
28. 510
21. 675
t d.
+6. 835
4-3. 418
d.
14.0
14.5
d.
13.5
13.0
d.
4-2.0
4-0. 50
Sec.
o / //
4-22 13 1. 6
- 5 44 30. 6
O / Il
-f 16 28 31 0
4- 8 14 15. 50
*
/ //
//
U
//
o / //
+2 33. 39
+ 0. 53
+ 0. 04
8 16 49. 46
PAIR No. II.
March 1(1
2522
2564
S.
-N.
35. 385
29. 950
— 5. 435
-2. 718
7.5
15.0
20.0
12.5
-10.0
- 2. 50
4- 5 33 6. 7
+ 11 4 46. 9
4-16 37 53. 6
+ 8 18 56. 80
I
j
I
i
-2 1.98 1 -2.65
-0. 03
8 16 52.14
PAIR No. III.
March 10
2653
2720
S.
N.
28.220
26. 995
-1.225
-0. 612
17.5
5.0
10.0
22.5
-10.0
- 2. 50
•
4- 2 33 51. 6
4-14 0 47. 4
4-16 34 39. 0
4- 8 17-19.50
<
-0 27. 47
-2. 65
-0. 01
8 16 49. 37
PAIR No. IY.
March 10
2778
*2889
N.
S.
22.470 | -6.780
29.250 1 -3.390
»
19.5
6.5
8. 5
22.0
-4.5
-1.12
4-9 34 47. 8
4-7 4 3.5
4-16 38 51. 3
+ 8 19 25. 65
-2 32.14
-1.19
-0. 04
|
r
8 16 52. 28
M
m
CO
I
tc
Mean and adopted value for latitude 8° 16' 50". 81 north.
Star place doubtf ul.
210
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
COMPUTATION OF LATITUDE OBSERVATIONS AT PINOGANA, TUYRA RIVER, UNITED STATES OF COLOM¬
BIA, WITH OBSERVATIONS FOR MICROMETER VALUE OF ZENITH-TELESCOPE No. 2.
[Observations made in February, 1871 ; observations computed in April and May, 1871, by F. Blake, jr.]
Computation of hour angle, azimuth, and zenith distance of 51 Cephei at west elongation.
a 67t. 38m. 54s.
ô .... 87 14 32
é 42 22 49
tan <p.... 9.96023
tan ô..... 1.31723
cos t 8.64300
t (arc) 87° 28' 51"
t (time) 5It. 49m. 55s.
cos ô 8.68227
cos <p 9. 86846
sin A 8.81381
A * 3° 44' 4"
sin (p . 9.82869
sin ô 9. 99950
sin Ji 9.82919
h 42° 26' 26"
£ . . i 47 33 34
West elongation at 12h. 28m. 49s.
Chronometer Bond 236 is fast 45s. (seconds) at 127i. 28m., (sidereal time,) May 12,1871.
Elongation by chronometer 127?. 29m. 34s.
One division of level 1". 06
1)
DAEIEN SHIP-CANAL. 211
Observations for micrometer value of zenith-telescope No. 2, United States Coast Survey.
51 Cepliei at western elongation—Harvard Observatory, Cambridge, Massachusetts, May 12, 1871.
1
r©
o .
m
«y a
© o
• p—^
• , i ^
Reading of mi¬
crometer turns.
Time by side¬
real chronom¬
eter.
•
Level.
il
o
r—i
© .
a §
O • rH
©
£
0
2 •
I
©
CO
a
©
©H
O
©
c3
CO
©1
0 ©*
• rH L.
Reduced times.
S «8
! r© >
3 ©
3 QQ
£
N.
. S.
C3
.S
• iH
H
*43 «K» . '
©
©
i-1
©
O
O
* r-H
©
0
T3
©
M
lected
level.
+3. >
© ©
© 1—1
©
©
0
0
h
m.x
s.
m.
s.
divs.
s.
h. m.
s.
1
30
12
18
29.0
14.5
26.5
+11.1
+0.2
-1.00
-1.5
12 18
27.7
2
#
29
19
32.0
10.0
0.2
-1.5
19
30.7
3
28
20
34.0
14.5
26.5
9.0
0.1
-1.00
-1.5*
20
32.6
4
27
21
36.0
8.0
0.1
1
-1.1
21
35.0
5
26
22
39.0
15.0
26.0
6.9
0.0
- 0.50
-0.7
22
38.3
6
25
\
23
41.0
5.9
—0.7
23
40.3
7
24
24
44.0
15.0
26.0
4.8
- 0. 50
-0,7
24
43.3
8
23
25
46.0
3.8
-0.7
25
45.3
9
22
26
48.5
15.0
26.0
2.8
-0. 50
-0.7
26
47.8
10
21
27
49.5
1.7
-0.4
27
49.1
11
20
28
51.0
15.5
25. 5
+0.7
0. 00
-0.0
28
51.0
12
19 *
29
53.0
-0.3
29
53.0
13
18
30
55.0
15.5
25.5
1.3
0. 00
30
55.0
14
17
31
58.0
2.4
31
58.0
15
16
33
1.0
15.5
25.5
3.4
0.00
33
1.0
16
15
34
3. 0
* 4.5
34.
3.0
17
14
35
5.0
15.5
25.5
5.5
0. 00
35
5.0
18
13
36
6.0
6. 5
—0.0
36
6.0
19
12
37
9.0
15.5
25.5
7.6
0.1
0. 00
j
37
9.0
20
11
38
11.0
-8.6
0.1
i
!
38
11.0
Final results for value of micrometer of zenith-telescope No. 2, United States Coast Survey.
Friday, May 12, 1871.
Number.
Time for ten
turns.
A
A2
m. s.
s.
s.
1 to 11
10 23.3
+1.1
1.21
2 to 12
22. 3
+0.1
.01
3 to 13
22.4
+0.2
.04
4 to 14
23.0
+0.8
.64
5 to 15
22.7
+0.5
.25
6 to 16
22.7
+0.5
.25
7 to 17
21.7
-0.5
.25
8 to 18
20.7
— 1.5
2.25
9 to 19
21.2
—1.0
1.00
10 to 20
21.9
-0.3
0. 09
Mean
■
10 22.19
5. 99
212
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Probable error of ten turns — 0. 6745 / — — ± 0s. 174
V 10X9
Proabble error of one turn = ± 0". 261 cos 4 = J- 0". 013
Mean time of one turn = 62s. 219
log 62s. 219 = 1.79392
cos <5 = 8.68227
log 15 = 1.17609
44". 904 = 1. 65228
One turn = 44". 904
Refraction = — 0 . 026
Resulting value = 44 . 878
One turn of micrometer-screw attached to zenith-telescope No. 2 = 44". 878 ± 0". 013
Computation of mean places at 1871.0 of latitude stars, at Pinogana, Tuyra River, South America.
B. A. C.
Greenwich 7-year—
Armagh—
Radcliffe—
o5
A
B. A. C.
•+=>
a
*
A
(1860.)
(1864.)
, . V
(1859.)
(1864.)
3
bfj
c3
£
1871.0.
No.
h. m.
8.
o
//
/
//
o
/
//
1896
5 50
0
64
3
52
54
64
3
53.0
1920
5 52
57
99
34
12
9
99
34
10.5
2002
6 7
" 5
67
27
29
31
30-
4
67
27
30.0
2015
8
34
96
14
18
16
4è
96
14
17.0
2080
20
5
69
8
1
2
6
69
8
1.5
2094
21
36
94
41
10
5
6
94
41
7.5
2144
27
47
82
19
47
47
6
82
19
47.0
2211
6 39
30
81
16
44
43
6
81
16
43.5
2410
7 12
25
67
46
57
58
58
3
67
46
57.7
2437
16
6
95
44
23
20
6
95
44
21.5
2589
*
■
•
2672
7 55
36
61
50
47
47
47
5è
61
50
47. a
2854
8 24
17
70
34
47
61
70
34
47.0
2911
32
1
86
12
26
27
5
86
12
26.5
2970
. 39
52
77
25
5
7
5
6
77
25
5.7
3032
48
35
83
33
53
-
14
4
3053
50
44
80
4
6
6
80
7
6.0
-
a Hydrae. t
e Leonis. t
■
t
* (a Canis Minoris.) Apparent idace is given in American Ephemeris
t Apparent places are given in American Ephemeris.
DAEIEN SHIP-OAEAL. 213
Computation of apparent places of B. A. C. stars observed for latitude.
PAIR No. I.
B. A. C., No. 1896.
•
Date.
North polar distance.
a'
V
d
d'
Sum.
Feb. 24
64° 3; 53". 0
—1.2345
+0. 9166
—9. 2251
+9.8376
+8.6665
—8. 3339
—9.9954
+9. 9995
Feb. 25
•
+25 56. 7.0
—1.2378
+0.8989
—9.2196
+9. 8231
*
—9.9010
—9.2505
+9.2205
+9. 8371
—9. 9043
—9.2328
+9.2150
+9. 8226
+25 56 7.1
—0". 80
—0". 18
+0". 17
+0". 69
—0". 1
+25 56 7.1
—0 .80
*
—0 .17
+0 .16
+0 .67
—0 .1
B. A. C., No. 1920.
99° 34' 10". 5
—1.2345
+0.9166
—9.2251
+9. 8376
—9.7739
+7.7663
—9. 8476
+9.9997
— 9 34 10 .5
—1.2378
+0.8989
—9.2196
+9. 8231
+1.0084
+8.7829
+9. 0727
+9. 8373
•
+1. 0117
+8.6652
+9. 0672
+9.8228
— 9 34 .21 .6
+1". 020
+0". 05
. +0". 12
+0". 69
+11". 1
— 9 34 21 .6
+1 .027
+0 .05
+0 .12
+0 .66
+11 .1
PAIR No. II.
B. A. C., No. 2002.
•
Date.
North polar distance.
a'
, y
d
%
d'
Sum.
*
67° 27' 30". 0
—1. 2345
+0. 9166
—9. 2251
+9. 8376
—8.2430
+7. 9885
+9.7070
+9. 9999
+22 32 30 .0
—1.2378
+0. 8989
—9.2196
+9. 8231
+9. 4775
+8.9051
—8. 9321
+9. 8375
+9.4808
+8. 8874
—8. 9266
+9. 8230
+22 32 29 .0
+0". 30
+0". 08
—0". 09
+0". 69
+1".0
+22 32 29 .0
+0 .30
+0 .08
—0 .08
+0 .69
+1 .0
B. A.
C., No. 2015.
•
96° 14' 17". 0
—1.2345
+0. 9166
—9.2251
+9. 8376
—9.7323
—7.5529
+9. 8194
+9. 9998
■
— 6 14 17 .0
—1. 2378
+0. 8989
—9. 2196
+9. 8231
+0. 9668
—8.4695
—9.0445
+9. 8374
+0.9701
—8. 4518
—9.0390
+9.8229
— 6 14 26 .8
+9". 26
—0". 03
-0". 11
+0". 69
+9". 8
— 6 14 26 .9
+9 .33
—0 .03
—0 .11
+0 .67
+9 .9
214
DARIEîT SniP-CANAL.
Computation of apparent places of B. A. C. stars observed for latitude.
PAIR No. III.
B. A. C., No. 2080.
Date.
North polar distance.
a'
V
c'
d'
►
Sum.
•
69° 8' 1". 5
+20 51 58 .5
—1.2345
—8.7016
—1.2378
+0. 9166
+8. 4662
+0. 8989
—9.2251
+0.2165
—9.2196
+9. 8376
+9.9985
+9. 8231
•
+9. 9361
+9. 9394
+9. 3828
+9.3651
—9. 4416
—9.4361
' +9.8361
+9. 8216
+20 51 57 .0
+20 51 57 .0
+0". 86
+0 .87
+0". 24
+0 .23
—0". 28
—0 .27
* +0". 69
+0 .66
+1". 5
+1 .5
-
B. A.
C., No. 2094.
94° 41' 7". 5
— 4 41 7.5.
—1.2345
—9.7107
—1.2378
+0. 9166
—7. 8633
+0. 8989
—9.2251
+0.2544
—9.2196
+9. 8376
+9.9983
+9. 8231
r
•
+0. 9452
+0.9485
—8. 7799
—8.7622
—9.4795
—9. 4740
+9.8359
+9. 8214
— 4 41 16 .6
— 4 41 16 .7
+8". 81
+8 «88
—0". 06
-0 .06
—0". 30
—0 .30
+0". 69
+0 .66
+9". 1
+9 .2
PAIR No. IV.
B. A. C., No. 2144.
Date.
North polar distance.
a'
y
c'
.
d'
Sum.
82° 19' 47". 0
+ 7 40 13 .0
—1.2345
—9. 4732
+0. 9166
+8.1907
—9.2251
+0. 3668
+9.8376
+9.9971
+0. 7077
+9.1073
-9.5919
+9. 8347
+ 7 40 7.5
+5". 10
+0". 13
—0". 39
+0". 68
+5". 5
B. A. C., No. 2211.
'
81° 16' 43". 5
+ 8 43 16 .5
—1. 2345
—9. 4458
+0. 9166
+8. 4034
—9.2251
+0.5239
+9. 8376
+9. 9939
0
+0. 6803
+9. 3200
—9.7490
+9. 8315
+8 43 11 .4
+4". 79
+0". 21
— 0". 56
+0". 68
+5". 1
DA RIEN SelP-CAFAL. 215
* ^
Computation of apparent places of B. A. C. stars observed for latitude.
PAIR No. V.
B. A. C., No. 2410.
m
Date.
North polar distance.
a'
v
&
d'
Sum.
•
1 1
67° 46' 57". 7
+22 13 2.3
—1.2345
-8. 6128
—1.2378
+0.9166
+9.0634
+0. 8989
—9.2251
+0.7873
—9.2196
+9.8376
. +9.9787
. +9. 8231
1
■
j
•
+9. 8473
+9. 8506
+9.9800
+9.9623
—0. 0124
—0. 0069
+9. 8163
+9.8018
+22 13 1.0
+22 13 1.1
+0". 70
+0 .71
+0". 96
+0 .92
—1". 03
—1 .02
+0//. 66
+0 .63
+1". 3
+1 .2
B. A. C., No. 2437.
•
94° 44' 21". 5
— 5 44 21 .0
—1.2345
—9.7209
—1.2378
+0. 9166
—8.5046
+0. 8989
—9.2251
+0. 8097
—9.2196
+9. 8376
+9.9763
+9.8231
+0.9554
+0.9587
—9. 4212
—9. 5035
—0.0348
—0. 0293
+9.8139
+9.7994
-
— 5 44 29 .8
— 5 44 29 .9
+9//. 02
+9 .09
-0". 26
—0 .25
—1". 08
—1 .07
+0". 65
+0 .63
+8". 3
+8 .4
PAIR No. VI.
•
B. A.
C., No. 2589.
Date.
North polar distance.
a'
V
c!
d'
Sum.
101° 52' 40//. 0
— 11 52 40 .0
-1.2345
-9.7855
—1.2378
+0.9166
-8. 9414
+0. 8989
—9.2251
+0.9319
—9.2196
+9. 8376
+9.9565
+9.8231
+0. 0200
+0. 0233
—9. 8580
—9. 8403
—0.1570
—0.1515
+9.7841
+9.7796
— 11 52 39 .5
— 11 52 39 .6
+1". 05
+1 .06
—0". 72
—0 .69
—1". 44
—1 .42
+0". 61
+0 .60
—0". 5
—0.4
-
B. A.
C., No. 2672.
61° 50' 47". 0
+28 9 13 .0
—1.2345
+8.5146
—1.2378
+0.9166
+9.3543
+0.8989
—9.2251
+0. 9819
—9.2196
+9. 8376
+3.9436
+9. 8231
—9.7491
—9.7524
+0.2709
+0.2532
—0. 2070
-0.2015
+9.7812
+9.7667
,
+28 9 12 .7
+28 9 12 .8
—0". 56
—0 .57
+1". 87
+1 .79
—1".61
—1 .59
+0". 60
+0 .58
+0". 3
+0 .2
216 DARIEN SHIP-CANAL. .
Computation of apparent places of B. A. C. stars observed for latitude.
PAIE No. VII.
B. A. (+ No. 2854.
[Tliis pair cannot be used for latitude, as the places are uncertain.]
Date.
North polar distance.
a'
I'
c'
d!
Sum.
•
—1.2345
—9.1411
—1.2378
+0.9166
+9. 2901
+0. 8989
—9.2251
+1. 0690
—9.2196
+9. 8376
+9.9092
+9. 8231
%
»
+0. 3756
+0. 3789
+0.2067
+0.1890
—0.2941
—0.2886
+9. 7468
+9.7323
+2". 37
+2 .39
+1". 61
+1 .55
' —1".97
—1 .94
+0". 56
+0 .54
+2". 6
+2". 6
PAIR No. VIII.
•
<
•
B. A. C., No. 2911.
Date.
North polar distance.
a'
y
&
d'
Sum.
Febr'y 25
82° 55' 51". 5
+ 7 4 8.5
—1.2378
—9.5794
+0. 8989
+8.6154
—9.2196
+1. 0889
+9.8231
+9. 8981
•
+0.8172
+9.5143
—0.3085
+9. 7212
+ 7 4 0.2
+6". 56
+3//.'27
—2". 03
+0". 53
+8". 3
/
B. A.
C., No. 2970.
77° 25' 5". 7
+12 34 54 .3
—1.2378
—9.4062
+0. 8989
+9.1458
—9.2196
+1.1074
+9. 8231
+9.8863
•
+0.6440
+0.0447
-0. 3270
+9.7094
+12 34 5.4
+4". 41
+1". 11
+2". 12
+0". 51
+3". 9
DARIEÏT SHIP-CANAL. 217
Computation of apparent places of B. A. C. stars observed for latitude.
PAIR No. IX.
B. A. C., No. 303-2.
Date.
North polar distance.
a'
v
cl
d'
Sum.
—1.2345
—9.5400
—1.2378
+0.9166
+8. 8791
+0.8989
—9.2251
4-1.1266
—9.2196
4-9. 8376
4-9. 8720
4-9. 8231
-fO. 7745
-f0.7778
+9.7957
-j~9.7780
—0. 3517
—0. 3462
4-9.7096
4-9. 6951
+5". 95
+6 .00
+0". 62
+0 .60
—2". 25
—2 .22
4-0". 51
4-0 .50
44". 8
44". 9
%
B. A.
C., No. 3053.
—1.2345
—9. 4767
—1.2378
+0. 9166
4-9. 0669
4-0. 8989
—9.2251
4-1.1311
—9.2196
4-9.8376
4-9. 8683
4-9.8231
•
+0.7112
+0.7145
4-9.9835
4-9.9658
—0.3562
—0. 3507
4-9.7059
49.6914
+5". 14
+5 .18
4-0". 96
4-0 .92
—2". 27
—2 .24
4t>". 51
40 .49
44". 3
44 .4
PAIR No. X.
fa Hydrse and s Leonis are given in tlie American Epliemeris and'Nantical Almanac.]
Date.
Ô
a Hydras.
e Leonis.
February 24, 1871
February 25, 1871
o / "
—8 6 7.7
—8 6 7.8
O ! U
424 21 58.6
424 21 58.6
Table of micrometer values.
No.
Turns.
Tenths.
Hundredths.
Thousandths.
//
//
n
//
1
44.878
4.488
0. 449
0.045
2
89.756
8.976
0.898
.090
3
134.634
13.463
1.346
.135
4
179.512
17.951
1.795
.180
5
224.390
22.439
2.244
.224
6
269.268
26. 927
2. 693
.269
7
314.146
31. 415
3.141
.314
8
359.024
35.902
3.590
.359
9
403.902
40. 390
4, 039
.404
10
448.780
H. Mis. 113 28
STATION AT PINOGANA, TUYRA KIVER, UNITED STATES OF COLOMBIA.—COMPUTATION OF LATITUDE.
[Observations with zenith-telescope No. 2. One division of level=+". 06 ; one turn of micrometers^". 878.]
PAIR No. I.
Date.
Star.
Micrometer.
Level.
Meridian
distance.
Declination.
Sun and half
sun.
Corrections.
Latitude.
No.
B. A. C.
N.
S.
Reading.
Diff. Z. D.
N.
S.
Diff.
N.—S.
Micron?.
Level.
Refr.
Merid.
1871.
February 24
1896
1920
N.
S.
t. d.
15. 785
25.160
15. 300
24. 675
t. d.
-9. 375
-4. 688
-9. 375
-4. 688
d.
0.0
26.0
10.5
15.0
d.
26.5
0.5
15.0
10.5
d.
-1.0
-0. 25
+0.0
+0. 00
Sec.
o® / //
+25 56 7.1
-9 34 21. 6
+25 56 7.1
-9 34 21.6
o / n
+16 21 45. 5
+ 8 10 52.75
+16 21 45. 5
+8 10 52. 75
/ //
//
//
//
o /. //
February 25
-3 30. 39
-0.26
-0. 07
8 7 22. 03
-3 30. 39
+ 0. 00
-0. 07
22. 29
8 7 22.16
PAIR No. II.
February 24
2002
2015
N.
S.
18. 405
22. 865
18. 335
22. 705
-4. 460
-2. 230
-4. 370
-2.185
12.5
14.5
11.5
14.5
13.5
11.5
14.5
11.5
+2.0
+ 0. 50
+0. 00
+0. 00
+22 32 29. 0
-6 14 26. 8
+22 32 29. 0
-6 14 26.9
+ 16 18 2.2
+ 8 9 1.10
+16 18 2.1
+8 9 1.05
February 25 *
-1 40.08
+0. 53
-0. 03
8 7 21. 52
-1 38.06
+0. 00
+0. 03
22. 96
8 7 22. 24
PAIR No. III.
February 24
2080
2094
N.
S.
22. 385
17. 060
21. 400
15. 895
+5. 325
+2. 662
+5. 505
+2. 752
13.0
18.5
16.0
10.0
13.5
8.0
10.0
16.0
+10.0
+2. 25
+0.0
+0. 00
+ 20 51 57.0
- 4 41 16. 6
+20 51 57.0
-4 41 16. 7
+ 16 10 40.4
+8 5 20.20
+16 10 40. 3
+ 8 5 20.15
February 25
+1 59. 47
+2. 38
+ 0. 03
8 7 22. 08
+2 3.50
+0. 00
+ 0. 03
23. 68
8 7 22. 88
PAIR No. IY.
February 24
2144
2211
s.
N.
26. 060
14. 530
-11. 530
-5. 765
10.5
17.5
16.0
9. 5
[
+2.5
+0. 62
+7 40 7. 5
+ 8 43 11. 4
+16 23 18. 9
+ 8 11 39.45
-4 18. 72
+0. 66
-0. 07
8 7 21. 32
8 7 21. 32
PAIR No. Y.
February 24
*2410
2437
N.
S.
10.130
27. 760
9.025
f 24. 475
-17. 630
-8.815
6.5
22.5
11.0
16.5
21.0
5.0
16.5
11.0
+3.0
+0.75
+0.0
+0. 00
+22 13 1. 0
+ 5. 44 29.8
+22 13 1.1
-5 44 29. 9
+16 28 31,2
+ 8 14 15.60
+16 28 31.2
+8 14 15. 60
February 25
+ 0. 80
+0. 06
* Star very faint ; through clouds ; reject. t Reject.
PAIE, Ho. YI.
February 24
2589
2672
S.
H.
19. 400
17.200
20.250
18.120
—2.200
-1.100
-2.130
-1. 065
11.5
16.5
16.5
7.5
16.5
11.5
11.0
20.0
+0.0
+0. 00
-7.0
-1.75
-11 52 39. 5
+28 9 12. 7
-11 52 39.6
+28 9 12. 8
+16 16 33. 2
+8 8 16. 60
+16 16 33. 2
+8 8 16. 60
February 25....
-0 49. 37
+0.00
-0. 02
8 7 27. 21
-0. 47. 80
-1. 86
-0. 02
26. 92
8 7 27. 06
PAIE Ko. m
February 24
*
2854
S.
H.
12.375
25. 470
11. 870
25. 025
+13.095
+6. 548
+13.155
+6. 578
9.5
19.0
17.5
5.5
19.0
9.5
10.0
22.0
+0.0
+0. 00
-9.0
-2.25
*
February 25
+0. 00
-2. 38
* Ho place can be found for the first star of tbis pair, while that of the second is quite unsatisfactory.
PAIE Ho. Vni.
February 25
2911
2970
S.
H.
25. 755
15. 720
-10. 035
—5.018
15.0
9.0
12.5
18.5
-7.0
-1. 75
+7 4 0.2
+12 34 50. 4
+19 38 50. 6
+9 49 25, 30
«
-3 45. 20
-1. 86
-0. 07
*[9 45 38.17]
* Eeject.
PAIE Ho. IX.
February 24
*3032
3053
S.
H.
22. 500
16. 910
23. 580
18.150
-5. 590
-2. 795
-5. 430
-2. 715
11.0
19.5
17.5
7.5
17.5
9.0
10.0
20.0
+4.0
+1. 00
-5.0
-1. 25
February 24
-2 5.43
+1.06
-2 1.84
-1.32
* Ho satisfactory places can be found for the stars of this pair, which must, therefore, be rejected.
PAIE Ho. X.
February 24..
a Hy-
drse.
s Leon-
is.
S.
H.
20.070
18. 675
19.915
18. 555
-I. 395
-0. 698
? -1. 360
-0. 680
13.5
16.5
16.0
10.5
15.5
12.5
12.5
18.0
+2.0
+0. 50
-4.0
-1. 00
-8 6 7.7
+24 21 58. 6
-8 6 7.8
+24 21 58. 6
+16 15 50. 9
+8 7 55. 45
+16 15 50. 8
+8 7 55. 40
February 24
-0 31. 32
+0.53
-0. 01
8 7 24.65
-0 30. 52
-1. 06
-0. 01
23. 81
8 7 24.23
220
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Results for latitude of Pinogana,
Pair.
Mean.
No.
o /
o / /
8 7 22.03
8 7 22.16
1
22.29
21.52
2
22.96
22.24
22. 08
22. 88
3
23.68
4
21.32
21.32
5
Rejected.
27.21
27.06
6
26 92
7
Rejected.
8
Rejected.
9
Rejected.
24. 65
10
24.23
23.81
Mean of six pairs
8 7 23.94
Pair No. 10 consists of two Nautical Almanac stars, a Hydrse and e Leonis, in regard to^the
places of which there can be no doubt. The other five pairs are composed of the ordinary B. A. 0.
stars, the places of which are quite uncertain. Giving each one of the six pairs an equal weight,
the mean latitude is 8° 7' 23".94, while the latitude as deduced from Pair No. 6 alone is 8° 7' 24".23.
The difference is slight, but I think the adopted value for Pinogana latitude should be 8° V 24".23
north.
FINAL DISCUSSION OF LONGITUDE DETERMINATIONS AT OBSERVATORY ISLAND, PANAMA, CÏ1IPI-
GANA, AND PINOGANA»
Observatory Island, Gulf of Darien.
Chronometer No. Longitude.
953 , ...» 12m 20s.80
1103 20.71
1281 * 20 .60
1300 20.49
1311 20.90
Mean, east of Aspinwall, 12 20 .70
Panama.
Chronometer No. Longitude.
953 1» 28s-60
1103 * 28 .62
1281 28 .81
1300 28 .72
Mean,"east of Aspinwall „ 1 28 .64
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL. 221
Chipigana.
Chronometer No. Longitude.
953 6m 4U3
1281 3.89
1300 4.46
1311 4.26
Mean, east of Panama . 6 4.18
Add, Panama, east of Aspinwall 1 28.64
Sum, Chipigana, east of Aspinwall 7 32.82
Pinogana.
Chronometer No. Longitude.
953 1» 218.34
1103 21.79
1281 21.74
1300 21.25
1311 21.58
Mean, east of Chipigana 1 21.54
Add, Chipigana, east of Aspinwall 7 32 .82
Sum, Pinogana, east of Aspinwall - 8 54.36
The longitude of observatory on Manzanillo Point, Aspinwall, as determined by Assistant
A. T. Mosman, United States Coast Survey, astronomer to United States Darien Expedition of
1869-'70, is:
5h 19m 318.72; or 79° 52' 55".74 west of Greenwich.
This observatory was the initial point used by me [in preceding determinations, so that by
applying the mean results to Mr. Mosman's longitude with the proper signs, we have the following
final positions :
Longitude west of Greenwich :
Observatory Island 5h 7m 118.02, or 76° 47' 45".30
Panama 5 18 3.08, or 79 30 46 .20
Chipigana 5 11 58.90, or 77 59 43 .50
Pinogana 5 10 37 .36, or 77 39 20 .40
REPORT
ON
THE SANITARY CONDITION OP THE DARIEN EXPEDITION
BY
w. j. STJVLON, passed .assistajntt lsttrgeoisr, tj. s. 1st.,
AND
alfred griffith, jassist^jntt surdeon, tj. s. 1st.
United States Ship Nipsic, (4th rate,)
Mandinga Bay, May 27, 1870.
Sir: In reply to your communication of the 24th instant, we present the following sanitary
report of the expedition.
The part of the Isthmus surveyed lies in a disease-realm subject to malarious fevers, (remittent
and intermittent,) dysentery, diarrhoea, yellow fever, and hepatic affections; the period of greatest
unhealthiness being at the change from the rainy to the dry, or the dry to the rainy season.
Malarial fevers being the most important of the diseases which occur in this climate, we have
drawn a comparison between them and other diseases, showing the relative frequency in which
they have occurred. The cases of this fever which have come under our observation have been of
a comparatively mild character, and easily amenable to treatment.
The following tabular statement will give an idea of the cases of disease :
Average strength of command on board United States ships Nipsic and Guard . 276
Total number of cases of disease 106
Per centum of disease to the whole command 38.40
Number of cases of malarial diseases during the expedition » 32
Per centum of malarial diseases. - 30 +
Average number of men employed on shore 100
Number of cases of disease on shore, or contracted on shore . :.. - - - 45
The question of the preservation of health involves a consideration of the circumstances tend¬
ing to the causation of disease. The most potent cause of disease in this region is, probably, ma¬
laria, conjoined with unavoidable exposure to moisture, and, in an expedition of this kind, the dif¬
ficulty of obtaining healthy locations for camps.
In order to counteract these influences in as great a degree as possible, the utmost care should
be taken to select the most favorable sites for camps, and in keeping them properly policed.
Attention to the position of sinks, and to the position of sleeping-places for the men, is of
great importance ; the bunks should be elevated at least one foot.
In clearing away places for camps a quantity of undergrowth is necessarily cut down and
should be removed as far as possible from the camp to prevent any possibility of malaria arising
from decomposition. No work should be done before a morning meal, and dry clothing at night
during sleep is absolutely necessary to health.
Flannel underclothing is most suitable in preventing disease from change of temperature ;
the oversuit may be of linen or cotton, or of such material as will be the choice of each individual.
224
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
At all times the preparation that each individual is disposed to make for the preservation of his
own health may be sufficient to diminish cases of disease.
At the period above mentioned, during the change from the rainy to the dry season, or vice
versa, quinine in small doses should be administered, as a preventive of the fevers, which are
debilitating in their character and destructive to constitutional health. As debility from necessary
exposure and exertion will predispose men to attacks of all diseases in this climate, an alcoholic
stimulant may be given with great advantage in combination with the sulphate of quinine. The
liability to danger from the bites of poisonous animals and insects is but slight ; there have been
but few cases from such causes, and those were not of a serious nature.
There has been but one death during the expedition, which occurred from drowning, the result
of an accident at Caledonia Bay. There have been no deaths from disease.
In conclusion : from our experience we are of the opinion that the part of the Isthmus surveyed
is not unfavorable to health in a marked degree, even to those unacclimated ; in fact, considering
the amount of necessary exposure incurred by the surveying parties, the extreme good health of
the expedition is as unexpected as it is gratifying to record.
Respectfully, your obedient servants,
W. J. SIMON,
Passed Assistant Surgeon.
AJjFRED GRIFFITH,
Assistant Surgeon, United States Navy.
Commander T. O. Selfridge, U. S. N.,
Commanding Darien Surveying Expédition.
MEDICAL REPORT
OF
THE DARIEN EXPEDITION,
BY
IHUNnSTJEUS LPTJSSEXHL., A.CrJ:ilSrG" ILA-SSIEI) .A.SSISTAJNTT STJRŒEOlSr.
Philadelphia, August 25,1871.
Sir : In this report the facts recorded will be for the most part such as fell under my own
observation. I shall, however, bring to bear on the subject information received from other sources,
from the surgeons of the Resaca and Guard, and of the Pauama Railroad Company, from books,
periodicals, &c.
My services upon the Darien expedition lasted from December 3,1870, to June 27,1871. Dur¬
ing that time I had medical charge of a surveying party for one hundred days, from February 22
to June 3,1871, this service being a continued one in the wildest portion of the Isthmus of Darien.
The following is a summary of the amount of sickness, &e., during that time :
Number of men in party . 24
Admission to sick-list » 41
Number of sick-days . . ...... 123
Average time sick, days 3
Daily average . lT2o3o
Daily percentage . 5
These numbers may appear large, they are really the reverse, for this statement includes every
case, medical or surgical, excused from duty, from any cause, however slight. No deaths occurred,
no cases became chronic, no severe form of disease existed at any time during the progress of the
survey. These observations apply not only to the party which I accompanied in the woods, but to
the whole expedition, and for the whole time.
Several other surveying parties were on other parts of the Isthmus, and the greater part of the
officers and crews of the Resaca and Guard had extra work to do on hydrographie and other duty
connected with the survey. All were exposed to the direct rays of the burning sun, to the poison
of malaria, or both. With the whole command the same sanitary precautions were taken, (which
will be referred to hereafter,) and with about equally good results.
Malarial fevers (intermittent and remittent) formed the greater x>art of the cases, twenty-one
of the admissions out of forty-oné being cases of fever. Most of the other affections met with showed
a distinct malarial impression, and all were benefited by the treatment proper to cases of fever.
Many causes co-operated to produce cases of sickness, the first and most important one being
the poison of malaria, to which we were constantly exposed. Many different opinions are held as
to the nature of this peculiar poison, to none of which I need allude. All agree that for its produc¬
tion, vegetable decomposition, favored by heat and moisture, is necessary ; that this decomposition
is most active when there is no more moisture than is necessary for that purpose. Uncommonly
rainy seasons, followed by unusually dry ones, are very favorable to its development, as is every
change by which a perpetual alteration of the water-level is occasioned. These conditions were
present during the whole time of our trip, most markedly so at the commencement ami toward the
H. Mis. 113—29
226
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
end of our survey. At the commencement the rainy season had ended, but the water which covers
the lower portions of the country during this period had not yet had time to descend to its lowest
point, and while we were ascending the river Cué the water was gradually falling, exposing masses
of vegetable matter to decay, and constantly adding to the amount of malaria everywhere present.
During the last month our survey took us over a very rough country, which, though generally of
the kind which a late author speaks of as " very active in the evolution of malaria," ("such as are
traversed by percolating streams or canals in wooded districts termed jungles,") was composed of
a succession of hills and valleys extending from the mouth of the river Paya (emptying into the
Tuyra) to the town of Pinogana, a village some thirty miles farther down. The weather was also
such as to favor the production of malaria, rain for one or two days, followed by hot dry weather
for a corresponding period. Other causes which had their influence in predisposing to disease may
be merely alluded to; the fact of being compelled on many occasions to wear wet clothing, not
only during the day but at night, for, although ordinarily great care was taken to have the men
put on dry clothes on finishing their work, it would often be impossible to keep dry owing to very
heavy rains and imperfect shelter inseparable from such work in a perfect wilderness. The effects
from bites from hordes of various kinds of insects, &c., may be alluded to, not simply from their *
local effects, which were sometimes severe, but from the loss of sleep occasioned by this persistent
annoyance. In this connection the bites of vampire bats should be referred to, as the stories told
of them are by many deemed rather apocryphal. We were troubled with them more or less during
the whole time we were out, but ordinarily they did not prove a serious annoyance ; toward the
latter part of our trip, however, some one wTas bitten almost every night ; one night, the 13th of
May, nine men were bitten. The men were rarely awakened by the bites, which, however, bled
freely, sufficient blood being usually lost to saturate the clothing, and to show its effects very
perceptibly in the loss of color and general feeling of weakness experienced.
I have now to consider the reasons which, notwithstanding the various predisposing causes
to disease, led to the general continuance in health of the various members of the expedition. I
would mention first the fresh and most excellent water which we always found without difficulty;
second, having regular hours for meals, and the good food furnished, it being of better quality
and of larger quantity than that furnished to any army or navy in the world, amounting to fifty- '
three ounces (three and five-sixteenths pounds) of solid food per diem, for each man; third, the
total absence of all causes of excitement; fourth, the absence of all kinds of intoxicating liquors;
the care taken to have each one in the party wear flannel next the skin. The good influences to be
expected, à priori, from these causes are so evident that it will be needless to dwell upon them. As
to the prophylactic use of quinine, some words will be necessary. With us the sulphate of quinia was
used regularly from the time of starting out, and continued during the whole, period with the ex¬
ception of some three or four days; before that time we had had but three cases of fever, all light
attacks. At the end of the fourth day of the time in which the use of quinine was omitted, three
men were attacked with the fever, and on the following day three more. These six cases were in
every respect the most serious ones I had to treat during the whole trip, though even they readily
yielded in a few days to the free use of quinine. When these men were taken sick we were not
exposed to a greater amount of malaria than before. The good effects of the daily use of quinine
were so marked as to be readily perceived by even the sailors and macheteros of the party, with
whom at first great difficulty was experienced in getting them to take the medicine ; afterward,
however, they never neglected to come for it when served out in the morning, and used frequently
to ask at other times for extra doses. It was given usually immediately before breakfast, about
half the time being administered in solution in whisky, four grains to the ounce for each dose;
occasionally, after extra exposure or an unusually hard day's work, a dose would be given in the
evening. During a portion of the time it was given suspended in clear, cold coffee, a method
which masks most effectually the peculiar bitterness of the remedy ; but I prefer, however, for
small doses, the solution in whisky, the small amount of the latter in each dose being in itself
very beneficial.
Quinine, as a prophylactic against fever, has long been used, and its good effects noted by all
who have had experience in its use. I shall introduce here two quotations from writers upon the
Isthmus: " In 1855, the use of quinine enabled the Panama line of steamers to continue their
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL
227
service daring the sickly season, and has ever since been found to reduce the number of sick in the
service to a mere fraction of its former amount, while it preserved from disease in a remarkable
manner the officers and dependents of the railroad company on the Isthmus." Dr. I. K. Merrill,
surgeon of a mining and exploring party on the Isthmus, states that "for more than tivo years the
party enjoyed an almost complete immunity from miasmatic disease, under the systematic use of
quinine."
The proper mode of giving quinine, in cases of fever, is a question upon which there has been
much discussion, the principal difference of opinion being whether it should be given in one, or at
most two large doses, or in small doses frequently repeated. My experience, which is in conformity
with that of the surgeons of the Panama Railroad Company, and that of a majority of the profes¬
sion, is that one large dose, fifteen to twenty-five grains, should be given as early as possible, either
as soon as the paroxysm has subsided, or, if a recurrence of the attack is anticipated, in a short
time, even at the commencement of the sweating stage, and with most excellent results.
It may be noted as a fact of importance, that the anti-febrile influence of quinine does not co¬
incide with its physiological effects, which are manifested almost immediately and subside in from
six to eight hours. It is certain that the anti-febrile effects are manifested at a later period.
A wTord as to the manner of administration of quinine in large doses. Pills are readily taken
by many, but they soon become hard and insoluble. The solution with sulphuric acid is undoubt¬
edly the form in which it is most readily introduced into the system, but the taste is to many so
unpleasant as to prove a matter of some importance in causing nausea and vomiting, which are
easily produced in these fevers. I usually give it suspended in clear cold coffee, a mixture which
a noted author says " produces a precipitate of the insoluble tannate of quinia, Nwhich is probably
decomposed but slowly in the system." In every case, however, I found the physiological effects
to be produced in about the same time as when given in the solution with aromatic sulphuric acid,
and its curative effects were certainly as well marked as could be desired. When there is hepatic
congestion the administration of calomel is usually called for in connection with the use of quinine.
Opium is in many cases a useful adjunct. One point more as to treatment, and that is to put in
my word against the necessity of any " preparation of the system " for the use of quinine by the
use of purgatives, emetics, or both, as recommended by many. It seems to me scarcely ever neces¬
sary and often absolutely hurtful, as valuable time is often thereby lost, the natural tendency of
the disease itself being sufficiently exhausting without adding to it by such unnecessary drains
upon the system.
Whether the system can become even in a measure acclimated to the poison of malaria is a
question which seems to me should be decided in the negative, but upon this point " doctors disa¬
gree." Professor Aitken says, " It is now an established fact that no one can be acclimated so as
to withstand the influence of malaria." Dr. Stephen Rogers says, " Gradual acclimation diminishes
the danger of being attacked by the more violent forms of miasmatic disease."
Upon the diseases other than malarial met with, little need be said. We were troubled with
various forms of skin affections, which I here only allude to to note the good effects of carbolic
acid, which was used in solution, one part of the acid to forty of water, and applied in almost every
case. Its use was mostly followed by immediate relief of itching, and a cure was generally accom¬
plished in a few days.
Is the climate of the Isthmus a very unhealthy one or not? This is a question about which
there is a wonderful diversity of opinion. There seems to be a very widespread notion that it is
not only very unhealthy, but one of the most x>estilential places to be found, and thus most writers
who have mentioned the climate speak of it. Residents of the Isthmus, on the other hand, includ¬
ing the different medical men there, are unanimous in their assertions that it is not unhealthy. They
maintain that they have fewer diseases on the Isthmus, and even proportionally fewer cases of
malarial fever, than are to be met with in various portions of the United States, and not only fewer
cases but cases of less dangerous type. It would be uncandid not to mention that yellow fever
has at various times been prevalent on the Isthmus, and that when met with it has occurred as an
epidemic of severe type; during the last one, (which occurred in 1868,) from 75^to 80 per cent, of
those attacked succumbed to the violence of the disease. From as extended an observation of the
228
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL
country itself as I could make, from information derived from the statistics for the last three years
of the medical service of the Panama Eailroad Company, and from conversations with different
medical men there, I have reason to believe that the statements of the residents of the Isthmus, as
to their climate, are substantially correct, as far at least as the towns of Panama and Aspinwali
are concerned.
It must be remembered, however, that malarial fevers are not usually met with in cities, and
that the use of quinine as a prophylactic is there largely resorted to. In the smaller native villages,
where this is not the case, fever of a violent type is very common, deaths occurring frequently. The
conclusion therefore seems to me evident that malaria is everywhere present on the Isthmus, less
so in the cities, but that its ill effects can to a great extent be prevented by the use of small daily
doses of quinine, with the observance of various hygienic rules; the use of flannel next the skin;
the avoidance of the use of intoxicating drinks and of exposure to the open air during the morning
and evening; being careful to avoid exposure after extreme fatigue from any cause. With this
care I am satisfied a long time may be spent on the Isthmus with but little detriment to health ;
without such precaution, however, the effects of the climate are speedily shown, being first mani¬
fested upon the nervous system, langor, lethargy, loss of appetite being almost immediate results,
fever and disease of the digestive organs following surely in due course of time. To conclude, it
seems to me that the most practical point of this inquiry is, whether in case of a sliip-canal being
built across the Isthmus, passengers would be exposed in transitu to malarial diseases 1 In view
of the facts already noted, this seems to admit, without further argument, of a ready answer in the
negative-
All of which is respectfully submitted.
Your obedient servant,
LINN2EUS EUSSELL,
Acting Passed Assistant Surgeon.
Commander Thomas G. Selfridge, U. S. N.,
Portland, Maine.
REPORT
upon
THE WINDS, CURRENTS OF THE PACIFIC OCEAN,
AND
THE MOST FAVORABLE COURSES FOR VESSELS TO AND FROM THE TERMINUS
OF A SHIP-CANAL AT CUPICA BAY, SOUTH AMERICA,
♦
by
1,110 UFWNNNW JR. COLLINS.
INSTRUCTIONS.
Navy Department, Washington, D. C., February 20, 1872.
Sir : It is very desirable that we should obtain a knowledge of the character of the winds and currents on the
routes between Cupiea Bay and Callao, Valparaiso, Sydney, Batavia, Manila, Hong-Kong, [Shanghai, Yokohama, and
Calcutta ; also of the routes to be followed by sailing-vessels to reach the above ports in the shortest time, and the
average length of passage under sail and steam.
You will bear in mind that the passages to the west coast of South America will be made, in sailing-vessels, by a
stretch off shore till the port can be fetched on the other tack. That the passage home will be made to the north, with
the westerly wind, to such a point that a ship can fetch Punta Mala with the prevailing northeasterly winds.
On the other hand, steamers would pursue a straight or great-circle course, excepting moderate deviations for
currents or favorable winds.
You may allow, in calculating length of passage for steamers, a uniform rate of ten knots per hour irrespective of
current. For sailing-vessels, allow, with light breezes, three to four knots ; moderate breezes, six to seven knots, and
nine to ten knots with fresh breezes.
You wilUtherefore please, with the assistance of the various sailing directions and charts to be obtained at the
Hydrographie Office, proceed to prepare a report embodying the above data. It should commence with a description of
the prevailing winds and currents of the Pacific Ocean, the east coast of Australia, China, Japan, and the East Indies.
You will append a table showing the length of passages of sailing-vessels by the Napipi canal, to the above ports,
as compared with the routes around Capes Horn and Good Hope.
In composing this table, you will allow an average of twenty days to and from the United States to the mouth of the
Atrato; thirty days from the English Channel to the same point, and forty days homeward to Europe. Allow also three
days as the time required to pass from ocean to ocean.
The homeward passage to Europe from the East Indies, China, and Japan it is not necessary to consider.
Your report, if carefully made, will be A ery useful and will reflect credit upon yourself.
Verv respectfully, &c.,
THOS. O. SELFRIDGE, Commander.
Lieutenant Fred. Collins, United States Navy.
Approved, February 20, 1872.
DANL. AMMEN,
Chief of Bureau of Navigation.
REPORT OF MR. COLLINS. (Plate xvu
I am directed, in the instructions under which this work has been performed, to commence with
a description of the winds and currents of the Pacific Ocean. This account I shall endeavor to
make as brief as may be consistent with clearness, seeking only to convey a general idea of those
230
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
regular movements of the air and water which are well known to exist, and to define their limits as
they are laid down by the accepted authorities, without reference to theory or to anomalous excep¬
tions to general rules.
The field before us consists of the entire expanse of the Pacific Ocean, with the various seas
that are properly included in that general term, and so much of the Indian Ocean as lies to the
eastward of the meridian of 80° east. This vast area may be subdivided into numerous sections,
characterized by the prevailing direction of the winds, whose boundaries, though by no means con¬
stant, may be laid down in a general way with sufficent accuracy for our purpose. We will begin
at the north and go towards the south, dividing the ocean iuto belts.
NORTH BELT OF WESTERLY WINDS.
For our present purpose we need consider nothing above the parallel of 50° north, between
which and that of 30° north, westerly winds prevail during the entire year. They incline generally
to the northward of west during the winter, (December to June,) and to the southward of west
during the other season. Near the American coast, however, this rule seems to be reversed, north¬
west winds prevailing from April to October, and southwesterly and southeasterly winds from
October to April. The western boundary of this belt may be given as 145° east, between which
and the Asiatic coast lies the monsoon region, of which I shall speak hereafter.
CALMS OF CANCER.
It frequently happens that ships passing from the region of westerly winds into the trade-winds
that lie below it experience, for a shorter or longer time, calms and light baffling winds. To this
narrow belt, which is found in general between 32° and 28° north, the name of calms of cancer has
been given.
NORTHEAST TRADES.
From the calms of cancer to within a few degrees of the equator extends the vast region of the
northeast trades. In general terms this region may be said to extend from 30° to 8° north, and
from a distance of three hundred miles off the coast of America to the Ladrone Islands in longitude
145° east. The polar and equatorial limits are, however, very variable, following to a certain degree
the change in the declination of the sun. The former ranges from 21° north to 32° north, and the
latter from 4° north to 14° north.
MONSOONS OF THE COAST OF MEXICO.
The space alluded to between the northeast trades and the American coast is occupied by a
system of x>eriodical winds that have received .the name of monsoons of the coast of Mexico.
Though not, strictly speaking, monsoons, they blow with considerable regularity from the northward
from November to April, and from the southward from May to October.
REGION OF THE NORTHEAST AND SOUTHWEST MONSOONS.
It has been said that the northeast trades blow only as far as the Ladrone Islands. Between
this limit and the Asiatic coast they are replaced by monsoons, which blow with great regularity
from the northeastward from October to April, and from the southwestward from April to October.
The southern limit of this northeast and southwest monsoon region is the equator, or a few degrees
north, and it extends not only over the China Sea, but also over the Bay of Bengal and the Arabian
Sea to the coast of Africa.
EQUATORIAL DOLDRUMS.
Lying along near the equator, but generally a little north of it, is a belt, some four or five de¬
grees wide, of calms, rains, and light, baffling winds, that separates the wind systems of the north
Pacific from those of the south. Its average northern limit may be placed at 8° north, and its
southern at 3° north, but both are very variable. This is often spoken of as a "calm belt," which
term is calculated to mislead one as to the nature of the weather to be expected within these limits.
DAKIEN SHIP-CANAL.
231
9
Neither does the term " region of variable winds/' appear satisfactory, as it does not express the
peculiar character of the weather. uDoldrums " seems to be the correct word, for, although it may
be, as some say, "uncouth," it is the only single word that conveys to the mind of the seaman all
that can be expressed by saying "a region of calms, squalls, light, baffling winds, and storms of
wind and rain."
SOUTHEAST TRADES.
«
The southeast trades extend from the belt of doldrums to 28° or 30° south, but the area over
which they prevail is much more limited than that of the northeast trades, as it is generally conceded
that they do not blow regularly beyond the meridian of the Marquesas Islands, or about 140° west.
Their average eastern limit is to be found from five hundred to six hundred miles off the coast of
South America, and their northern boundary lies in 3° north.
WINDS OF THE WEST COAST OF SOUTH AMEBIC A.
In the belt from five to six hundred miles wide, lying between the eastern limit of the south¬
east trades and the coast of South America, winds are found blowing almost constantly from the
southward the year round. The coast of Chili seems to present an exception to this general rule,
as there exists on that coast a moderately well defined system of monsoons, blowing from the
southward from September to May, and from the northward from May to September.
VARIABLE WINDS OF THE EQUATORIAL PACIFIC.
The meridian of 140° west has been given as the western limit of the true southeast trades.
Beyond this limit most authorities seem agreed that the southeast trades extend only from April
to October, being replaced during the rest of the year by calms and westerly winds. Kerhallet
says that south of the equator, the southeast trades blow over the whole extent of the Pacific from
March to October, and that during the rest of the year they are replaced by variable winds or mon¬
soons. He also speaks of the northwest monsoon of the Indian Ocean, which blows from October
to April, as extending, although irregularly, to the Marquesas Islands. If this be true, the region
under discussion would be subject to two alternating or periodical winds, from the southeast from
April to October, and from the northwest during the other season.
Some figures that we have derived from Maury's Pilot Charts seem to point to a different
state of affairs, and we will give them here that all may draw their own conclusions.
There are recorded in Maury's Charts 5,823 actual observations made by ships between the
months of October and April, within the area bounded by 140° west, 175° west, the equator, and
10° south, and out of this immense number of winds observed, but 10 per cent, are between north
by west and south by west, through west; yet this is the season when, according to the quotation
just made from Kerhallet, the northwest monsoon should be experienced. Again, within the same
limits, from April to October, there are 4,707 winds recorded, out of which but 5.5 per cent, are be¬
tween north by west and south by west through west. It appears, therefore, that although westerly
winds are somewhat more frequent between October and April than during the other season, yet,
even then, but one wind in ten has any westing in its direction, and, taking the year round, out of
10,530 observations, an average of 7.7 per centum only of the winds have anything of westing in
them. The conclusion, then, must be that this is a region of prevailing easterly winds. With
reference to the calms which have been spoken of as prevailing there, we will add that the obser¬
vations before spoken of, give an average of but 2.7 per cent, of calms between October and April,
against 1.2 per cent, between April and October, or an average of 1.9 per cent., taking the year
round.
Thus far we have spoken only of that portion of the section under discussion, lying between
the equator and 10° south. In examining the route to Australia there are brought out some
figures that would lead us to infer that the conclusion before arrived at is equally applicable to the
entire region as far south as 25° at least.
The route spoken of traverses this portion of the Pacific in a diagonal direction from 5° south,
140° west, to 22° south, 175° west. Here there are recorded 3,631 observations between October
232
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
and April, of which an average of 9.5 per cent, are between north by west and south by west
through west. During the remaining months of the year, there are recorded 2,805 observations,
with an average of 15.2 per cent, with westing in them. The calms for the first period average
4.5 per cent., and for the latter 5.1 per cent. The conclusion appears irresistible, that at no season
does the northwest monsoon extend to the eastward of the meridian of 175° west, and that from
this to the Marquesas, between the equator and 25° south, easterly winds predominate, nearly in-
the proportion of ten. to one, the year round.
That this easterly wind is not the true southeast trade is, however, very true, since, particu¬
larly from October to April, it frequently draws to the northward. The numerous groups of islands
with which this region is studded, appear to exert a powerful modifying influence upon the trades,
and to deprive them to a certain degree of their constant character. This influence, however, if
the foregoing figures are correct, does not extend into the comparatively open sea sufficiently to
deprive the wind of its dominant easterly character, and we are justified in considering the entire
region, with the possible exception of the waters immediately among and adjacent to the various
groups, as one of prevailing easterly winds.
REGION OF SOUTHEAST AND NORTHWEST MONSOONS.
The meridian of 175° west has been given as the average western limit of the region of easterly
winds just under discussion ; to the westward of that meridian, and between the equator and 15°
south, lies a region of southeast and northwest monsoons, extending in this narrow belt through
the Indian Ocean to the coast of Africa. These winds blow from the northwest from October to
April, and from the southeast from April to October, their direction being thus about at a right-
angle to that of the monsoons that lie north of the equator. These two systems of monsoons blow
from the northward and southward during corresponding seasons, but while, as from October to
April, those north of the equator draw to the eastward, those south draw to the westward, the
reverse being true during the other season.
CALMS OF CAPRICORN.
Between 28° and 30° south latitude lies the belt of ucalms of Capricorn," corresponding in
the southern hemisphere to that of the calms of Cancer, already described, in the northern.
SOUTH BELT OF WESTERLY WINDS.
South of the above-mentioned belt is a region of prevailing westerly winds. During the
southern winter, (June to December,) these winds incline to the southward of west, and during the
summer, to the northward. These directions, however, must be considered as indicating their gen¬
eral tendency only, as in both hemispheres they are very variable.
CURRENTS OF THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
Difficult as it is to map out the limits of wind regions with any degree of precision, it is doubly
so with regard to currents. u Current " has been, and still is, the scape-goat of all errors in navi¬
gation, and while this science has so far advanced that the skillful navigator is able by means of
astronomical observations to fix, under favorable circumstances, his position with no small degree
of nicety, yet the means employed generally for measuring the ship's way through the water are still
rude, so that it is often a matter of doubt how much of the distance actually " made good " is due to
the wind or other propelling force, and how much to current. None of the various u patent logs "
that have been proposed to obviate this difficulty can be regarded as reliable under all circum¬
stances, and this primary obstacle is increased in the Pacific by the vastness of the area awaiting
careful examination.
These being the facts of the case, it is not to be wondered at that standard authorities upon
this subject disagree in many points, and in some instances are in direct opposition. With regard
to the principal currents, however, there is but little disagreement, and these are the only ones
that demand our present attention.
We will consider first those of the northern hemisphere and then those of the southern.
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
233
NORTH EQUATORIAL CURRENT.
This immense stream may be considered as the parent of all the currents of the northern
hemisphere. It lies between the parallels of 10° and 20° north latitude, and sets to the westward
with an average velocity of thirty miles per day, its axis lying between 14° and 17° north. Arriving
at the meridian of 140° east longitude it divides, the smaller branch turning to the southward to
join the Equatorial Counter Current, that will hereafter be described, and the larger turning to the
northward, and contracting to join the Japan Current off the island of Formosa, a small portion
continuing to the westward into the China Sea, through the Bashee Channel.
THE KURO SIWO OR JAPAN CURRENT.
This remarkable stream, which presents many striking analogies to the Gulf Stream of the
Atlantic, takes its rise near the south end of the island of Formosa, and sets to the north and
east along the coast of that island and the Japan group. In this part of its course it is very
strong, its maximum velocity, as given by Lieutenant Bent, United States Navy, being eighty
miles a day, and its average from thirty-five to forty.
Beyond the Japan Islands it turns more to the eastward and spreads out to a great width,
sending a branch, called the Current of Kamtsehatka, into Behring Sea. The main body continues
to the eastward, receiving, beyond the meridian of 180°, from some authorities, the name of North
Pacific Current. At about 140° west it begins to turn to the southward, and when near the
American coast it sends off a branch that follows along the shores under the name of California
Current. The principal branch continues to the southward, finally tending to the westward until
it becomes merged into the North Equatorial Current, and thus completes its circuit. The vast
space encircled by this moving wall is subject to variable currents, and its eastern portion has
received the name of Fleurien's Whirlpool.
MEXICAN COAST CURRENT.
The current of the coast of California, before alluded to, sets along the American coast, and
npon arriving on the coast of Mexico it takes its name accordingly. It, however, branches a little
to the southward of Cape Saint Lucas, a part turning to the westward to join the Equatorial Cur¬
rent, and that part which continues along the Mexican and Central American coast, being influ¬
enced by the monsoons, becomes an alternating current, setting to the southward and eastward
from October to April, and to the northward and westward during the other season.
EQUATORIAL COUNTER-CURRENT.
The Equatorial Counter-Current appears to have its origin in a branch current from the
Indian Ocean that enters the Pacific through the Molucca Passage. It lies, according to Berghaus,
generally between 5° north and 10° north, but some authorities place it nearer the equator. It
flows due east, with a mean velocity, according to Kerhallet, of fifteen miles per day, and it is
re-enforced in its course by several offshoots from both the North and South Equatorial Currents.
As it nears the coast of Central America it is turned to the southward, and, doubtless, finally
merges into the South Equatorial Current in the vicinity of the Galapagos. Islands. The fact of
the existence of this counter-current is one of great importance, especially for steamers, as, lying in
a region of light and variable winds, it may by them be turned to advantage when bonnd to the
eastward in its vicinity.
SOUTH EQUATORIAL CURRENT.
This current may said to be formed by the junction of the O urrent of Humboldt with that of Men -
tor, both of which will hereafter be described, in about 85° west. It is very broad, extending from 3°
or 4° north to 20° south, in which wide belt it sweeps across the entire expanse of the Pacific, being
however, very much broken up and deflected by the islands of the numerous groups. A considerable
portion of it continues through Torres Strait, around the north coast of Australia, into the Indian
Ocean. Another branch turns down the east coast of Australia, under the name of the Australian
Current, which turns to the eastward and again divides, one branch to sweep up the west coast
H. Mis. 113—30
234
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
of New Zealand, and the other to continue to the southward and to lose itself in the Polar or
Transversal Current. Another branch turns to the southward between 160° west and 170° west,
and, sweeping the east coast of New Zealand, also joins the Transversal Current. The mean
velocity of the South Equatorial Current is given as twenty-four miles per day.
POLAE OE TRANSVERSAL CURRENT.
This great current sets to the eastward between the parallels of 40° and 60° south latitude,
with a mean velocity of twenty miles per day. In about 140° west it divides into two branches,
one of which, called the North Branch or the Current of Mentor, strikes to the northward and
eastward. In 30° south, between 80° west and 90° west, it turns to the northward, and again in
20° south to the westward, where it joins the South Equatorial Current.
The South Branch keeps to the eastward to 85° west, where it again divides, one branch setting
around Cape Horn, and the other up the coast of South America, where it becomes known as the
Peruvian or Humboldt's Current. It follows closely the trend of the coast, and off Cape Blanco
turns to the westward and joins the Current of Mentor to make up the Equatorial Current.
CURRENTS OF THE CHINA SEA.
The currents of the China Sea are principally surface currents, depending upon the prevailing
winds for their direction and velocity. They are, therefore, as might be supposed, somewhat
variable, but tend generally to the southward and westward from October to April, and to the
northward and eastward from April to October.
There is a similar current among the islands of the Caroline Archipelago, that has received
the name of the Monsoon Current of the Carolines, to which Kerhallet assigns a mean velocity of
three miles per day, which if true would make it of but little account to the navigator.
ROUTES IN THE PACIFIC.
In order to form a reliable estimate of the time that would be occupied in making an average
passage between any two ports where we have not the results of actual experience for our guide,
it is necessary to enter into a discussion of the following details :
1st. TO decide upon that route which, upon general principles, would appear to offer the
greatest advantages.
2d. To compute its distances and courses; and
3d. To deduce from the recorded observations of ships that have sailed the various regions
traversed by our proposed route, the prevailing character of the winds and currents to be encount¬
ered, and an estimate of the distance that may be expected to be made good daily.
In deciding the first question I have carefully consulted the following authorities, and the
routes which will hereafter be recommended have been laid down as nearly as possible in accord¬
ance with their directions :
" General Examination of the Pacific Ocean," by Kerhallet; " North Pacific Pilot," by W. H.
Eosser ; " South Pacific Directory," by A. G. Findley ; " Sailing Directions," by M. F. Maury ;
" Wind and Current Charts," by M. F. Maury ; " General Examination of Indian Ocean," by Ker¬
hallet; "Australia Directory," English Admiralty; "Chart of the World," byBerghaus; and
others.
The route having been decided upon and laid down, the second question has been answered
by dividing it into convenient sections and computing its distances spid courses by Mercator's or
middle latitude sailing.
In considering the third question, Maury's Pilot Charts have constituted the most complete
and convenient authority available, and the figures which they present have been taken as the
foundation of my calculations. To determine the exact distance between two ports upon a given
route, is but the first step in estimating the time required for the passage, for, in addition to this
and such a knowledge of the force of the winds and set of the currents as will give us the clue to
the daily distance run, we must have such an idea of the prevailing direction of the wind as will
enable us to estimate the amount by which this direct distance will be increased by our ship's
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
235
being headed off lier course; for it is this increased distance that must be divided by the hourly
speed or daily run to"give us the number of days required for the passage, and until we can form
some reasonably correct judgment as to the amount of this increase, our estimate of time must of
necessity be faulty.
For thejpurpose of estimating this increase, Maury's Pilot Charts are eminently well adapted.
Those who are familiar with those charts will of course understand at once how this u increased
distance" is obtained, but as there are, doubtless, many who have not seen them, and as this mat¬
ter lies at the foundation of our estimate of passages, I will explain it at length. Turn to Table I,
page 238.
It will be seen that the route is divided up into sections, columns 1 and 2 containing the
latitudes and longitudes of points at which new courses commence, and 3 and 4 those at which
they cease. Column 5 contains the courses between these points, and column 6 the direct distance
Now how have we obtained the figures 11.5 that head the column 7 of u Percentage of increase
in distance?" Taking Maury's Pilot Chart that covers the area in question we find it divided into,
squares of five degrees of latitude and five of longitude, and in each of these squares is placed
the whole number of observations of the wind that have been reported by ships for each month,
within the area of the square, and the number of times out of this whole number in which it blew
from each quarter. Thus, our first course in the table is south 27° west from Cupica Bay, lati¬
tude 6° 39' north, longitude 77° 10' west,To latitude 5° north, longitude 78° west, distance one hun¬
dred and eleven miles. This course and distance, then, lie in the square between 5° north and 10°
north, and 75° west and 80° west, and in this square we find recorded a total of 374 observations
of the wind, 274 of which were between December and June, and 100 between June and December.
Out of these 274 between December and June, 44, or 17.7 per cent., were from west-southwest; 21,
or 8.4 per cent., were from southwest ; 8, or 3.2 per cent., were from south-southwest ; 12, or 4.9 per
cent., were from south, and 0 were from south-southeast. Now our course, south 27° west, is about
south-southwest ; we have therefore an average of 3.2 per cent, of winds that would knock us off
six points. A vessel sailing six points from her course, must sail two hundred and sixty miles to
make one hundred good, or, in other words, she increases her distance 160 per cent. If all the
winds, then, blew from south-southwest, all ships would have to increase their distance by this 160
per cent., but the experience of 274 vessels goes to show that, on an average, but 3.2 per cent, are
from this quarter. The average increase, then, for each ship would be 3.2 per cent. of 160 per cent,
or 5.1 per cent. So much for winds dead ahead. In addition to these we have 8.4 per cent, from
southwest and 4.9 from south, making 13.3 per cent, that would knock us off four points. A vessel
sailing four points from her course must increase her distance 40 per cent., 13.3 per cent, of which
gives 5.0 per cent, increase for four-point winds. Lastly, we have 17.7 per cent, from west-south-
west, and nonejfxom south-southeast, from which points winds would knock us off two points, and
vessels sailing two points from their course increase their distance 8 per cent., 17.7 per cent, of
which gives 1.4 per cent, for two-point winds. Adding these three together we have 5.1 + 5.0 +
1.4 = 11.5 total percentage of increase in distance, having obtained which we increase our direct
• distance one hundred and eleven by this percentage of itself and get as a result one hundred
and twenty-three^miles, which is found in column 8, headed u Average distance to be sailed."
Out of the 277 observations of which we have spoken, 27 were calms, which gives the per
centage of 9.5 found in column 11.
Columns 12 and 13 relate to the currents, the first giving the general set and the second the
average hourly velocity in nautical miles, according to the best authorities.
Columns 9 and 10 give the winds; 9 showing in a general way the prevailing direction, and 10 giv¬
ing an estimate of the average force, as shown by the speed with which it would force a ship through
the water, in knots per hour. And here we are aware of treading on dangerous ground, for if
there is any one thing concerning which accurate knowledge is wanted it is this very force of the
wind in different partsfof the Pacific Ocean; still, by careful study and comparison of everything
that could be found bearing upon the subject, it is believed we have arrived at conclusions which
are sufficiently close approximations for our purposes; at all events, that they are within the mark
is certain.
236
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
The basis for these figures has been found in Maury's u Wind and Current Charts, Series A,"
where are recorded the observations of many thousands of vessels. The results of these observa¬
tions are expressed by symbols, by which the following states of the atmosphere are denoted, viz :
Gales, fresh breezes, moderate breezes, light breezes, very light breezes, light airs, and calms. These
have been translated as follows: Gales we have thrown out of consideration, as they are as likely
to be foul as fair, and even if fair the ship might often be compelled to lie to and thus make noth¬
ing. For a fresh breeze there are allowed ten knots, and this is the maximum allowance under any
circumstances ; for a moderate breeze, seven knots ; for a light breeze, four knots ; and for a very light
breeze, two knots. All below two knots has been considered as a calm, for which the manner of
allowing will be hereafter explained. The figures, then, as a rule, in column 10, represent the mean
of many observations, of which ten knots has been the maximum allowance and two the minimum,
but they do not always stand in the table exactly as obtained from calculation, since certain allow¬
ances had to be made with reference to the prevailing direction of the wind, it being well known
that, with a wind of a given force, a ship's rate of sailing will depend upon whether she is close
hauled, or has the wind abeam, or on the quarter, or dead affc. In some cases it has happened,
where a section of a route has been very long, that it has passed through several different wind
regions. Where this has been the case the figures in column 10 set opposite such a section show
the fnean force of the wind in all the regions considered together.
Having thus filled up the thirteen columns we come to the fourteenth, which contains the time
in days to be occupied in sailing over the given distance. This has been obtained in the following
manner : The average distance to be sailed is divided by the speed per hour in column 10, increased
or diminished by a proper allowance for the current according as it is favorable or unfavorable,
and the result is the number of hours it would take to sail the given distance were there no calms.
But as there generally are calms, this time must be increased by the proper percentage found in
column 11, and the result is the time in hours, which reduced to days is placed in its proper column*
In the case of the time 1.4, in table 1, it was thus obtained. We have a speed of 3.3 knots per
hour in column 10, the course is south-southwest, and the current sets to the southward 0.8 of a
knot per hour. We may therefore allow a speed of 4 knots over the ground. Dividing the in¬
creased distance, 123, by 4, we have 30 hours. Adding 9.5 per cent, for calms, we have 33 hours, or
1.4 days.* Columns 15, 16, and 17 beyond the triple line explain themselves, being simply the
totals of time and distance carried on from the point stated at the head.
In this manner all the tables from I to XV inclusive have been computed and prepared. They
are so constructed as to enable any one wishing to sail between the ports mentioned, to lay down
his route upon the chart, and compare as he goes along the results of his own experience in the
various regions that he may traverse with the average results of the experience of many others.
It is hardly necessary to remark that it is not intended for any one to follow these routes
blindly and sail over the exact courses laid down without regard to circumstances. Even if such a
thing were possible, it would not in all cases be desirable 5 but these routes indicate in a general
way the road to be traveled, as nearly as the exigencies of wind and weather and the thousand and
one minor dangers of navigation will allow, and by following them intelligently we are convinced
that good results will be obtained.
It may appear to some that our estimates of speed are excessive, and that, consequently, the
times allowed for passages are too short 5 but we are confident that the results of actual experience,
should these routes ever be put to the test, will give averages much shorter than any we have laid
down. In the few cases where we have been able to compare the calculations with known times,
they have agreed wonderfully well. For example, our computed time from Cupica to San Francisco
(see Table IX) is 36 days, and Berghaus gives 37 days as the actual average time from Panama.
Again, the time from 2° south, 105° west, to San Francisco, (see same table and map,) is 23 days,
and the route crosses the line in 110° west. From Maury's Sailing Directions, vol. ii, we find the
average of many passages from the line to San Francisco, where the crossings were between 110°
* The propriety of this method of allowing for claims (in which the ship is supposed to make nothing) will
be evident when it is considered that the " percentage of calms " represents the number of " times, " out of one hun¬
dred "times," during which calms prevailed, and a "time," as allowed by Maury, is & fixed period of eight hours. There¬
fore the percentage of calms in any given place is the average number of hours of calm out of every hundred hours.
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
237
west and 115° west, to be 23.3 days. Again, from the same work, we find the average of vessels
bound from San Francisco to Callao, who took the " eastern passage and crossed the equator between
80° west and 85° west, to be 27 days to the line." I make it (see Table XY) 28 days from San
Francisco to Cupica; surely that is within bounds.
Now when it is considered that the results, which have been just compared with actual averages,
were obtained by calculations exactly in the manner already described for Table I, it shows con¬
clusively that this manner of calculating is something more than mere guess-worh, and that the results
set forth in the following tables are entitled to all the confidence which we claim for them as
moderate estimates, and any calculations that may be based upon them will be certain to be within
bounds.
With this long introduction, which seemed necessary in order to enable the reader to judge of
what is to follow, we will enter upon the task of indicating the most favorable routes between
Cupica Bay, the Pacific terminus of the proposed interoceanic canal, and the most important ports
of the Pacific Ocean, and of forming an estimate of the number of days required for an average
passage. We will commence with
DIRECTIONS FOR LEAVING CUPICA BAY. (See Table I and map.)
Cupica Bay lies in a region of alternating winds, which blow upon the coast of South America
between the Isthmus of Panama and the equator, from the northward from October to April, and
from the southward and westward from April to October. These winds, though of no great force,
are quite constant, and no difficulty .would be experienced in getting to the westward from Cupica,
were it not for the belt of " Doldrums" which lies between 8° north and 3° north and extends to
within a few hundred miles of the coast. To attempt to stand directly out to the westward is
simply to insure a long and tedious passage ; hence a ship leaving Cupica has but one course left to
pursue for the first six hundred miles, whatever port may be her destination. The directions may
be comprised in a single sentence : Make the most of every opportunity to get to the southward
until within one or two degrees of the equator. If the wind will allow, run direct for 1° north, 85°
west j if it will not, keep as much to the southward of west as possible. Upon arriving on the
meridian of 85° west, two courses present themselves, according to the season of the year. Maury's
directions for leaving Panama Bay, which are applicable to this part of the route, are as follows :
"From latitude2° north, between June and January, vessels may stand off from the coast to the
westward, and pass northward of the Galapagos Islands, taking care to keep to the southward of
5° north ; as far as 95° west they will have south and south-southwest winds, but after that meridian
the wind will haul round to the southward, and ships bound to the South Pacific may consider
themselves fairly in the trade. Vessels bound 7iorthivardJ after passing the meridian of 100° west,
may edge away for Clipperton Rock, after passing which they may push to the northward for the
northern trades. Between February and June, it is better to cross the line before pushing to the
westward. This will generally take a week, [from Panama, not Cupica. —,j which outlay of time,
however, is far preferable to encountering the vexatious weather met in that season north of the
Galapagos. In this route, it must be remembered that southward of 1° north the wind hauls to the
eastward as the vessel leaves the coast, and on the meridian of 83° west it is frequently found to
the eastward of south."
An inspection of the following table, founded upon the experience of a large number of vessels,
will, I think, convince any one that no great difficulty need be apprehended in getting to 95° west,
and from there it is plain sailing wherever bound.
238
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Table I.—ROUTE FOR LEAVING CUPICA BAY.
OCTOBER TO APRIL.
From—
To—
Distance.
Winds.
Currents.
Totals from Cupica.
Latitude.
♦
©
0
•rH
bfi
a
Latitude.
|
©
0
-M
• r-R
bp
a
o
•
©
05
t-l
0
•
+=
o
2
3r cent, of
Lnorease.
i
i
Average to
be sailed.
Prevailing
direction.
©
o
Calms.
•
a
o
•rH
î o
0>
r-<
©
©
M
Days.
irect dis¬
tance.
Average dis¬
tance.
œ
P
P
o
P
Ph
P
P
P
P
P
Cup
ica.
5°N.
78° W.
S. 27° W.
111
11.5
123
N.
3.3
9.5
s.
0.8
1.3
111
123
1.3
5° N.
78° w.
1°N.
85° W.
S. 57° W.
440
28.7
566
N. andW.
6.5
4.3
Variab
le.
3.7
551
689
5.0
1° N.
85° W.
5° S.
95° W.
S. 57° W.
700
3.0
720
S. and E.
5.2
2.0
N. and W.
1.1
6.1
1, 251
1, 409
11.1
APRIL TO OCTOBER.
Cup
ica.
5° N.
78° W.
S. 27° W.
111
9.2
120
S. and W.
3.2
5.0
N.
0.8
1.2
111
120
1.2
5° N.
78e W.
1°N.
85° W.
S. 57° W.
440
28. 8*
567
S. and W.
6.8
2.0
Variab
le.
3.5
551
687
4. 7
1° N.
85° W.
1° S.
95° W.
W.
600
1.5
609
S. and E.
6.0
2.5
S. and E.
1.5
4.6
1,151
1, 295
9.3
Note.—Winds are named by the point from which they blow ; currents, by the point toward which they set. The force of the wind is
expressed by the average speed with which it will force a ship through the water, in knots per hour. The force of the current is also
expressed in knots per hour.
EOUTE TO AUSTRALIA.
As before stated, the route laid down in the foregoing table is the only one to follow on leaving
Cupica, wherever bound. Vessels, then, bound to Australia between October and April, having
followed that route will find themselves in latitude 5° south when in about 95° west. Here they
will find the southeast trades fresh and steady, and with these they may stand to the westward as
far as 145° west, favored all the way by the equatorial current setting to the westward.
In about 145° west, the course turns to the southward and westward, and beyond that meridian
they will, during this season, find the trades very irregular. The winds, however, will prevail from
the eastward as far as 175° west, beyond which west and southwest winds are of quite frequent
occurrence. Still, on the whole, the chances are in favor of a fair wind, and, at all events, the
navigator may be sure of the assistance of a favorable current until within a few hundred miles of the
Australian coast, if not, indeed, quite in sight of land.
Vessels bound to Australia between April and October, having followed the route of Table I,
will find themselves in longitude 95° west when in latitude 1° or 2° north. From this point they
will turn to the southward, cross the equator in about 100° west and join the above-described route
in 120° west. After turning to the southward in 145° west, they will probably find the trades
pretty steady as far as 175° west, and even beyond that meridian southeast winds will prevail.
If bound to Melbourne, follow the same route as far as 23° south, 175° west, thence make for
the entrance of Bass Strait, through which the port may be reached.
Table II.-EOUTE TO AUSTKALIA.-(£ee Table I.)
OCTOBER TO APRIL.
From—
To—
Distance.
Winds.
Currents.
Time in days.
Totals from Cupica.
Latitude.
Longitude.
Latitude.
Longitude.
Course.
Direct.
*
Per cent, of
increase.
Average.
Prevailing
direction.
Force.
Calms.
Prevailing
direction.
Force.
Direct dis¬
tance.
Average dis¬
tance.
Time in days.
5° S.
95° W.
5° S.
120°W.
W.
1, 494
0.6
1, 948
S. and E.
7.5
1.0
W.
1.0
7.5
2, 745
2, 904
18.5
5° S.
120° W.
5° S.
143°W.
W.
1, 375
0.2
1, 378
S. and E.
7.5
1.6
W.
1.0
6.8
4,120
4, 282
25.3
50 s.
143° W.
23° S.
175°W.
S. 60° W.
2,160
2.7
2, 243
E.
5.0
3.8
W.
0.7
17.5
6, 280
6, 525
42.8
23° S.
175° W.
Syd
ney.
S. 70° W.
1, 900
6.4
2, 021
S. and W.
6.5
4.3
W.
0.5
12.5
8,180
S, 540
55.3
APRIL TO OCTOBER.
1°N.
95° W.
5° S.
120°W.
S. 77° w.
1, 560
0.6
1, 569
S. and E.
7.7
0.3
W.
1.0
7.5
2, 711
2, 865
16. 8
5° S.
120° W.
5° S.
143° W.
w.
1, 375
0.0
1,375
S. and E.
7.7
0.0
W.
1.0
6.6
4, 086
4, 240
23.4
5° S.
143° w.
23° S.
175°W.
S. 60° W.
2,160
2.3
2,209
S. and E.
6.0
2.0
W.
0.7
14.4
6, 246
6, 449
37.8
23° S.
175° W,
Syd
ney.
S. 70» W.
1,900
8.6
2, 063
S. and E.
6.5
0.9
W.
0.5
12.6
8,140
8, 510
50.4
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
239
ROUTE TO CHINA, MANILA, AND JAPAN.
To vessels bound from Cupica to China, Manila, or Japan two great routes present themselves:
the northern, which lies entirely within the northern hemisphere and crosses in the belt of north¬
east trades, and the southern, which lies to the southward of the equator as far as 160° or 170° east.
The former seems to present such decided advantages that it will, I think, recommend itself to
navigators at all seasons of the year, but I will give both, that all may compare for themselves.
Vessels leaving between October and April will follow the route in Table I as far as 90° west,
whence, if intending to take the northern route, they will keep along two or three degrees south
of the equator as far as 105° west. Thence they may strike to the northward for 10° north, 120°
west, crossing the equator at about 110° west, and crossing the Doldrums and equatorial counter-
current on a due north course as rapidly as possible.
From April to October vessels will follow Table I as far as 95° west, whence they may keep
away for 10° north, 120° west, as before described, from which point the tracks for the two seasons
coincide.
Table III.—NORTHERN ROUTE TO CHINA, MANILA, AND JAPAN.—(Nee Table I.)
OCTOBER TO APRIL.
From—
To—
Distance.
Winds.
Currents.
œ
kl
et
rçj
P
• rH
©
a
Totals from Cupica.
i
Latitude.
•
©
s
•rH
bfl
P
Latitude.
*
©
p
H-3
•rH
p
©
GO
pH
p
O
©
M
îr cent, of
Lncrease.
verage.
Prevailing
direction.
Force.
4
m
a
"a
0
Prevailing
direction.
©
©
u
irect dis¬
tance.
verage dis¬
tance.
•
m
ka
et
P
P
o
P
P
P
H
P
<1
P
o
2 S.
- o
90 W.
o
2 S.
o
105 W.
w.
900
0.0
900
S. and E.
7.5
0.0
W.
1.0
4.4
1,801
1,949
12.4
2 S.
105 W.
10 K.
120 W.
N. 52° W.
1,170
1.0
1,170
Variable.
5.0
2.0
Varia
ble.
7.5
2, 971
3,130
19.9
10 N.
120 W.
14 K
140 W.
N. 790 W.
1, 260
0.4
1, 265
H. and E.
8.0
3.4
W.
0.9
6.4
4, 231
4, 395
26.3
14 H.
140 W.
14 K.
165 W.
W.
1, 455
0.0
1, 455
H. and E.
8.0
2.4
W.
0.8
7.1
5, 686
5,- 850
33.4
14 H.
165 W.
13 H.
163 E.
S. 88° W.
1,860
0.0
1, 860
H. and E.
6.8
0.5
W.
0.8
10.3
7, 546
7, 710
43.7
13 N.
163 E.
22 H.
122 E.
N. 770 W.
2, 400
7.5
2, 580
H. and E.
6.7
1.0
W.
0.8
14.4
9, 946
10, 290
58.1
22 K.
122 E.
Hong
Kong.
N. 88n W.
360
2.2
367
H. and E.
8.0
1.0
S. and W.
1.0
1.9
10, 360
10, 657
60.0
13 N.
163 E.
Shang
hai.
H. 65° W.
2, 510
7.5
2, 698
H. and E.
6.7
1.0
Varia
ble.
14.7
10, 060
10, 408
58.0
13 H.
163 E.
13 N.
125 E.
W.
2, 251
0.6
2, 264
N. and E.
7.6
0.9
W.
1.2
10.8
9, 797
9, 974
54.5
13 H.
125 E.
Man
ila.
<*)
320
3.6
332
7.0
0.0
W.
1.5
1. 6
10,120
10, 306
56.0
13 N.
163 E.
Yoko
hama.
N. 45° W.
1, 850
13.5
2,100
N. and E.
6.2
3.0
Varia
ble.
14.6
9, 369
9, 810
58.0
APRIL TO OCTOBER.
1 FT.
95 W.
10 N.
120 W.
N. 69° W.
1, 510
1.8
1, 537
Variable.
5.0
1.5
Varia
ble.
11.2
2, 661
2, 833
21.6
10 N.
120 W.
14 N.
140 W.
H. 79° W.
1,269
4.1
1, 312
N. and E.
8.1
3.3
W.
0.8
6.2
3, 921
4,145
27.8
14 N.
140 W.
14 N.
165 W.
W.
1, 455
0.8
1, 466
K. and E.
8.4
4.7
W.
0.8
6.5
5, 376
5, 611
34.3
14 H.
165 W.
131ST.
163 E.
S. 88° W.
1, 860
0.0
1, 860
H. and E.
6. 5
0.0
W.
0.8
10.7
7, 236
7, 471
45.0
13 N.
163 E.
22 N.
122 E.
N. 77° W.
2, 400
1.2
2, 429
S. and W.
6.2
1.2
W.
0.8
14.6
9, 636
9, 900
59. 6
22 N.
122 E.
Hong
Kong.
N. 88° W.
360
5. 6
380
S. and W.
7.2
0.2
K. and E.
0.8
2.4
9, 996
10, 280
62.0
13 N.
163 E.
Shang
hai.
N. 65° W.
2,510
1.2
2, 540
S. and W.
6.2
1.2
K. and W.
0.8
15.3
9, 746
10, 011
60.0
13 N.
163 E.
13 N.
125 E.
W.
2, 251
2.0
2, 296
S. and W.
6.2
2.0
W.
0.7
13.8
9, 487
9, 767
58.8
13 K.
165 E.
Man
ila.
(*)
320
7.6
344
7.5
7.6
W.
1.5
1.6
9, 807
10,111
60.5
13 H.
163 E.
Yoko
hama.
N. 45° W.
1, 850
1.7
1, 881
S. and W.
6.4
2.2
Varia
ble.
12.2
9,113
9, 352
57.0
* Through the Strait of San Bernardino.
It will be observed that this route lies to the westward along the parallel of 14° north, where
the equatorial current is felt in its full force, and where the trades are generally fresh. Should
these, however, at any time begin to slacken, a little northing should be made to bring them up
again. Upon reaching 150° or 160° east, if bound to Hong-Kong, between October and April, lay
à course direct for the Bashee Channel, through which the port may be reached with a fair wind
and favorable current. During the other season, that of the southwest monsoon, the same route
240
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
may be followed, but, if apprehensive of falling to leeward of your port, you may from 150° or
160° east keep on for the entrance of the Strait of San Bernardino, through which the China Sea
may be entered, and you will then be well to windward.
If bound to Shanghai or Yokohama, keep away to the northward from 160° east, but take care
to keep to the westward of your direct course in order to be able to cross the Japan current at a
favorable angle, and to insure making to windward of your port.
SOUTHERN ROUTE TO CHINA AND MANILA.
This route agrees exactly with that to Australia, as set forth in Tables I and II, as far as 145°
west. Thence it keeps to the westward, in about 5° south, as far as 175° west, where it turns to
the northward, crosses the equator between 160° east and 170° east, and enters the China Sea by
the Strait of San Bernardino, or the Bashee Channel. As it is hardly to be supposed that this
route would be taken by ships bound to any port north of Hong-Kong, we will give it for that
port and Manila only, and would recommend the northern in preference to it, even for those.
Table IV.—SOUTHERN ROUTE TO CHINA AND MANILA.—(See Tables I and II.)
OCTOBER TO APRIL.
Erom—
©
d
p
•r—4
c3
A
5 S.
5 S.
0
10 N.
13 N.
Mail
©
d
P
• r-H
feJO
P
o
A
o
143 W.
175 W.
167 E.
130 E.
125 E.
ila.
To—
o
d
P
• r-H
A
5 S.
0
10 N.
13 N.
Man
Hong
©
d
P
•rH
P
O
Hi
o
175 W.
167 E.
130 E.
125 E.
ila.
Kong.
CD
B
§
o
w.
N. 75° W.
N. 75° W.
N. 62° W.
(*)
N. 34° W,
Distance.
+3
©
©
u
1,913
1,120
2,290
330
320
590
P
©
©
H
©
A
©
CD
cS
©
u
©
1.5
11.4
4.7
0.6
3.6
5.5
©
bfi
H
©
>
<1
1,941
1,248
2, 397
332
332
622
Winds.
.
h a
.2
»—H j
d «
>
©
© d
P-i
©
E.
N. and W.
N. and E.
N. and E.
N. and E.
©
©
o
A
6.5
6.5
6.5
6.7
7.0
7.6
XS1
a
Hi
O
2.1
6.0
2.4
1.2
0.0
1.0
Currents.
w> .
s a
r -2
•d "©
Î 2
® -i-i
d
A
W.
w.
Varia
S. and W.
W.
S. and W.
©
o
fH
A
1.0
0.7
ble.
1.5
1.5
0.8
œ
>3
A
11.0
7.6
15.1
2.0
1.6
3.5
Totals from Cupica.
"rH
d
-H
©
©
©
©
©
a
a
-H
6, 033
7,153
9, 443
9, 773
10, 093
10, 680
m
•M
^ .
© ©
bJQ ©
fS P
© -i-W.
6,123
7, 371
9, 768
10,100
10, 432
11,050
APRIL TO OCTOBER.
5 S.
143 W.
5 S.
175 W.
W.
1, 913
1.0
1, 932
E.
7.0
1.5
5 S.
175 W.
0
167 E.
N. 75° W.
1,120
3.0
1,154
S. and E.
6.5
6.0
0
167 E.
111ST.
130 E.
N. 75° W.
2, 290
3.5
2, 370
S. and W.
6.0
2.4
11 N.
130 E.
13 N.
125 E.
N. 62° W.
330
3.5
341
S. and W.
6.2
4.3
13 N.
125 E.
Man
ila.
(*)
320
7.6
344
7.5
2. 0
Man
ila.
Hong
Kong.
N. 34° W.
590
8.7
641
S. and W.
7.2
1.7
W.
W.
Varia
W.
N. and E.
1.0
0.7
ble.
1.5
0.8
10.2
5, 999
6,172
34.7
7.0
7,119
7, 326
41.7
17.0
9, 409
9, 696
58.7
2.3
9, 739
10, 037
61.0
1.6
10, 059
10, 381
62.6
3.4
10, 649
11, 022
66.0
* Through the Strait of San Bernardino.
ROUTES TO BATAVIA.
The routes to Batavia differ widely with the seasons, that to be followed from October to April
lying entirely in the northern hemisphere, while that for the other season lies quite as exclusively in
the southern. The former coincides with the northern route to China, already described, through
the Strait of San Bernardino, to 120° east, whence the course lies to the southward and westward
through the China Sea, with a leading wind from the northeast monsoon, and a favorable current.
The latter follows the southern route to China as far as 165° west, and thence through Torres
Strait, by which means advantage is taken of the southeastern monsoon, which prevails from April
to October south of the equator.
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
241
Table V.—ROUTES TO BATAVIA.—(See Table IV.)
OCTOBER TO APRIL.
Erom—
To—
• Distance.
Winds.
Currents.
Totals from Cupica.
Latitude.
©
Ki
-M
•rH
bfl
a
Latitude.
©
£
• r-4
bC
P
©
£B
tl
©
©
CD
H
îr cent, of
ncréase.
©
'CÛ
GS
H
©
availing
lirection.
©
©
H
Calms.
[
©
o
• rH
O
2
©
©
H
OD
ka
ci
irect dis¬
tance.
irerage dis¬
tance.
•
m
Pr,
os
P
Hi
o
P
P
<1
P
P
A
p
P
P
<1
P
13° X.
120° E.
3° X.
108° E.
S. 49° W.
840
13.1
949
X. and E.
7.4
3.0
S.andW.
0.8
5.0
10, 957
11,255
61.1
3° X.
108° E.
Bat
avia.
S. 7° W.
550
10.0
605
X. and W.
7.4
4.0
S.andW.
0.8
3.2
11, 410
11,860
64.0
APRIL TO OCTOBER.
5° S.
165° W.
13° S.
160° E.
S. 77° W.
2,140
1.6
2,166
S. and E.
6.5
1.6
W.
0.6
12.7
7,541
7,734
44.2
13° S.
160° E.
5°S.
110° E.
X. 81° W.
3,100
3.2
3,137
S. and E.
6.0
3.2
W.
0.9
19.5
10, 641
10, 871
63.7
5° S.
110° E.
*
Bat
avia.
S. 66° W.
197
4.8
208
S. and E.
6.0
4.8
w.
0.9
1.3
10, 840
11, 080
65.0
ROUTE TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
This route coincides with the northern route to China, as heretofore given, as far as 10° north,
120° west ) thence the course may be laid through the northeastern trades direct to port. It
would, however, be advisable to hug the wind a little at first, till sufficiently to the northward to
be sure of fetching to windward of your port, which is doubly important in this case on account of
the strong westerly current.
Table VI.—ROUTE TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.—{See Table IV.)
OCTOBER TO APRIL.
Erom—
To—
Course.
Distance.
Winds.
Calms.
Current.
Days.
Totals from Cupica.
Latitude.
Longitude.
Latitude.
Longitude.
Direct.
Per cent, in¬
crease.
Average.
Prevail i n g
direction.
Eorce.
Direction.
Force.
Direct dis¬
tance.
AArerage dis¬
tance.
Days.
10° X.
120° W.
Hono
lulu.
X. 73° W.
2, 290
0.4
2, 300
X. and E.
7.6
3.4
W.
0.9
12.0
5,260
5, 430
32.0
APRIL TO OCTOBER.
10° X.
120° W.
Hono
lulu.
X. 730 w.
2, 290
4.1
2, 380
X. and E.
8.1
3.3
W.
0.8
11.5
4, 950
5, 220
33.0
ROUTE TO VALPARAISO.
Vessels bound to Valparaiso will leave Cupica as shown in Table I, winter route. On arriving
at 5° south 95° west they will find the southeast trade well established, and should stand off so as
to keep a good full, or so as to carry the fore top-mast studding-sail, till to the southward of the
trades, when the" port may be reached with the prevailing westerly winds. The tracks that ships
will thus be able to make will, of course, vary greatly, but the following tables show what may be
considered as an average. It will be seen that it is necessary to go considerably farther south
from December to June than during the other six months, owing to^the southern limit of the trades,
following, to a certain extent, the change in the declination of the sun.
H. Mis. 113—31
242 DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Table VIL—ROUTE TO VALPARAISO.—(See Table I.)
OCTOBER TO APRIL.
From—
To—
Distance.
Winds.
Current.
Totals from Cupica.
Latitude.
1
I
Longitude, j
1
i
Latitude.
j
Longitude.
Course.
Direct.
Per cent, of
increase.
Average.
Prevail i n g
direction.
©
0
H
O
£
Calms.
Direction.
Force.
Days.
Direct dis¬
tance.
Average dis¬
tance.
Days.
5° S.
95° W.
150 s.
101° W.
S. 30° W.
700
1.4
710
S. and E.
8.3
0.0
W.
1.2
3.4
1,951
2,119
14.9
150 S.
101° W.
250 s.
H*
0
Hi
O
=3
S.
600
5.7
634
S. and E.
7.9
1.4
Varia
ble.
3.4
2, 551
2, 753
18.3
25° S.
101° W.
30° S.
99° w.
S. 20° E.
320
21.5
390
S. and E.
5.0
3.0
Varia
ble.
3.3
2, 871
3,142
21.6
30° S.
99° W.
31° S.
95° W.
S. 67o E.
230
14.5
263
S. and E.
7.0
5.4
Varia
ble.
1.6
3,101
3, 405
23.2
31° S.
95° W.
32° S.
90° W.
S. 83° E.
246
15.2
283
X. and W.
7.0
4.4
Varia
ble.
1.7
3, 347
3, 688
24.9
32° S.
90° W.
33° S.
80° W.
S. 82° E.
500
16.3
581
X. and W.
7.0
4.9
X. and E.
0.6
3.6
3, 847
6, 269
28.2
33° S.
80° W.
Valpa
raiso.
E.
430
1.1
438
S.
7.3
4.9
X.
. 0.6
2.7
4,275
4, 700
31.0
APRIL TO OCTOBER.
50 s.
95° W.
15° S.
101° W.
S. 30° W.
700
0.7
705
S. and E.
7.7
0.0
W.
1.0
3.6
1, 951
2,114
15.1
15° S.
101° w.
20° S.
990 w.
S. 21° E.
320
17.6
376
S. and E.
6.7
0.0
Varia
ble.
2.3
2, 271
2, 490
17.4
20° S.
99° W.
25° s.
99° W.
S.
300
0.0
300
S. and E.
6.0
2.3
Varia
ble.
2.1
2, 571
2, 790
19.5
25° S.
99° W.
30° S.
95° W.
S. 36° E.
370
9.4
404
S. and E.
7.0
2.8
Varia
ble.
2.5
2, 941
3,194
22. 0
30° S.
95° W.
32° S.
90° W.
S. 65° E.
284
11.9
318
S. and W.
7.0
6.0
Varia
ble.
2.0
3,225
3, 412
24.0
32° S.
90° W.
33° S.
80° W.
S. 82° E.
500
6.7
533
S. and W.
7.0
4.9
X. and E.
0.6
3.2
3, 725
3, 945
27.2
33° S.
80° W.
Valpa
raiso.
E.
428
1.0
432
X.
7.3
3.4
X.
0.6
2.6
4,150
4, 380
30.0
On this route a strong current will be experienced as far as 20° south, setting to the westward.
This may, in a measure, be avoided by keeping to the eastward of 100° W. where the variable currents
that lie between the currents of Humboldt and Mentor will be found. On nearing the coast a
strong current will be found setting constantly to the northward, and attention should be paid to
this, especially when the southerly winds prevail, as there is danger of being carried to leeward of
your port. At this season, October to April, it would be safer to pass southward of Juan Fernan¬
dez Island, in order to be sure of making the land well to windward.
ROUTE TO OALLAO.
The remarks upon the first portion of the route to Valparaiso apply with equal force to that
to Callao, but the latter differs in a greater degree with the seasons than does the former. To get to
Callao the trades must be crossed as rapidly as possible, and sufficient easting made in the variables
to insure fetching your port when you haul up and again enter the trades. It is obvious, therefore,
that the length of passage must depend, to a great degree, upon the variations in the southern
limit of the trades, and as this follows the change in the declination of the sun, the passage will,
as a rule, be longer from October to April than during the other season.
The winds upon the coast of Peru, unlike those upon the coast of Chili, do not alternate with
the seasons, but prevail from the southward the year round. This fact, together with that of the
currents setting steadily to the northward, should be kept in mind when making any port on this
coast.
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
243
Table VIII.—ROUTE TO CALLAO.-(£ee Table VII.)
OCTOBER TO APRIL.
From—-
To—
Distance.
Winds.
Current.
Totals from Cupica.
t
| Latitude.
Ï
•
©
2
bC
S
f
! Latitude.
©
-M
b0
P
©
00
S-l
P
0
®
u
ir cent, of
nerease.
•
©
bO
c3
U
©
:evail i n g
lirection.
©
©
u
Calms.
•
a
0
©
©
©
Force.
0D
irect dis¬
tance.
verage dis¬
tance.
!
Days.
P
P
O
p
P
P
P
P
P
P
<1
32° S.
90° W.
30° S.
87° W.
X. 52° E.
195
8.6
212
W.
7.0
6.0
X. and E.
0.6
1.3
3, 542
3, 900
26.2
30° S.
87° W.
Cal
lao.
X. 25° E.
1, 240
2.5
1,271
S. and E.
8.0
5.0
X. and W.
0.6
6.7
4, 780
5,170
33.0
APRIL TO OCTOBER.
20° S.
990 W.
25° S.
95° W.
S. 37° E.
380
2.5
390
S. andjE.
6. 7
2.0
Varia
ble.
2.5
2, 651
2, 880
19.9
250 s.
95° W.
25° S.
90° W.
E.
270
8.6
295
S. and E.
5.0
14.0
V aria
ble.
2.8
2, 923
3,176
22.7
25° S.
90° W.
23° S.
85° W.
X. 6(P E.
300
0.0
300
S. and E.
6.0
12.0
Varia
ble.
2.3
3, 223
3, 476
25.0
23° S.
85° W.
Cal
lao.
X. 32° E.
830
0.0
830
S. and E.
7.7
2.3
X. and W.
0.6
4.4
4, 050
4, 305
29.5
ROUTE TO SAN FRANCISCO.
As far as 10° north, 120° west, this route is the same as that already described as the northern
route to China. The only important difference in the routes being in that portion, I have not
thought it necessary to divide the remainder, but have averaged the times and distances for the
two seasons, to 10° north, 120° west, and from that point have continued as in the following table,
giving the averages for the entire year.
From 10° north to 20° north ships will find the northeast trade fresh, and will experience the
westerly set of the equatorial current. They should, therefore, keep a good, clean full and cross
this current as rapidly as possible. Above 20° north they will find the trades somewhat dimin¬
ished in force, and drawing a little to the eastward, and the current of less strength, setting to the
south and south and west. If, in this portion of their route, they are headed off by a northerly
wind, and find difficulty in beating against the current, they will, by standing off on the starboard
tack, find the current diminishing in strength and setting more to the westward, which will
give them a chance to make their northing. On the other hand, by standing in towards the coast,
they will find the current constantly increasing in force, and setting more and more directly to the
southward.
After getting clear of the trades, the port may be made without difficulty with the prevailing
westerly winds.
Table IX.—ROUTE TO SAN FRANCISCO.—(See Table III.)
From—
To—
Distance.
Winds.
Currents.
Totals from Cupica.
Latitude.
Longitude.
Latitude.
Longitude.
Course.
Direct.
Per cent, of
increase.
Average.
Prevail i n g
direction.
| Force.
Calms.
1
Direction.
1
I Force.
Days.
Direct dis¬
tance.
Average dis¬
tance.
•
a?
£
P
10° X.
20° X.
30° X.
35° X.
120° W.
130° W.
135° W.
133° W.
20° X.
30° X.
35° X.
San F
130° "W.
135° W.
133° W.
rancisco.
X. 44° W.
X. 24° W.
X. 19° E.
X. 74° E.
830
650
320
550
8.3
12.8
15.9
3.3
900
733
371
568
X. E.
X. E.
Variable.
W.
8.0
7.0
7.0
7.5
2.0
1.5
3.0
6.0
W.
S. and W.
S.
S. and E.
0.8
0.5
0.7
0.7
4.5
4.6
2.5
3.6
3, 646
4, 296
4, 616
5,170
3, 881
4, 614
4, 985
5, 555
25.2
29.8
32.3
36.0
244
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
RETURN ROUTES.
We will now take up tlie return routes in the same order in which the outward-bound routes
have been treated, which will bring us first to
RETURN ROUTE FROM AUSTRALIA.
This route, as we have laid it out, passes through Cook's Strait, and thence to the eastward,
between 40° and 45° south, until sufficient easting is made to insure a fair wind on heading up
through the southeast trades. Although this offers the most direct route, it is by no means certain
that it will always be the best one. In the strait the winds blow constantly either from northwest
or southeast, and it seems to be quite a matter of chance which of these a vessel may encounter,
whatever may be the wind with which she approaches. Gales, also, are by no means uncommon,
which are liable to put a ship in jeopardy for want of sea-room.
Passing to southward of New Zealand would seem to offer the best results from April to
October, but during the remainder of the year the prevailing southeast winds might render this
passage tedious. The favorable current, however, would go far to offset this disadvantage, and
the fresh westerly winds that would be met after getting around the South Island would doubtless
compensate for the delay at the start.
On arriving at 120° west, haul up a little to the northward, and at 100° west head her straight
for Cape Blanco. Off that cape the land may be made if desirable, but at all events get inside of
85° west, in order to take advantage of, the southerly wind that blows along the coast.
Table X.—RETURN ROUTE FROM AUSTRALIA.
OCTOBER TO APRIL.
From—
To—
Course.
Distance.
Winds.
a
'cS
o
Currents.
Days.
Totals from Sidney.
Latitude.
o
£
• M
be
a
©
P
©
rd
53
-H
• rH
H—>
c3
P
•
©
PCS
s
-H
•rH
bfl
fl
o
Hi
© ■
©
H
•rH
P
Hr
© .
• ©
-t-3 £C
S os
© ©
© H
. ®
n a
© .£
P
©
be
cS
H
©
>
<
be .
s a
•rH ©
r—H
P -g
ci ©
S ©
© rd
P
©
©
H
©
P
a
©
•rH
H—1
o
CP
ÎH
• rH
P
©
©
©
©
P
m
• rH
©
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-H rt
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© ^
• rH
P
i
m
•rH
.
© ®
bC ©
d §
© a
© H>
-5
#
CO
p
Syd
40° S.
42° S.
42° S.
42° S.
36° S.
5° S.
Oo
ney.
174° E.
175° E.
150° W.
120° W.
100° W.
82° W.
82° W.
40° S.
42° S.
42° S.
42° S.
36° S.
5°S.
0°
Cup
174° E.
175° E.
150° W.
120° W.
100° w.
82° W.
82° W.
iea.
S. 71° E.
S. 27° E.
E.
E.
X. 71° E.
X. 28° E.
X.
X. 35° E.
•
1,110
135
1, 561
1,338
1, 020
2,140
300
490
8.2
10.5
10.3
8.2
6. 5
6.3
0.4
2.0
1,201
149
1, 722
1, 417
1, 086
2, 275
300
498
S. S. E.
6.5
7.0
7.5
8.0
8. 0
8.0
7. 0
5.0
4.0
0.0
3.0
2.2
2.0
4.0
2.1
4.4
V ariab
S. and E.
X.and E.
X.and E.
X.and E.
X.
X. and W.
S.
le.
0.5
0.8
0.8
0. 8
0.5
0. 6
0.8
8.0
0.8
8.9
7.0
5.3
11.6
1.7
4.8
1,110
1,245
2, 806
4,144
5,164
7, 304
7, 604
8, 905
1,201
1, 350
3,072
4, 519
5, 605
7, 880
8,180
8, 680
8.0
8.8
17.7
24,7
30.0
41.6
43.3
48.0
X. and W.
X. and W.
X. and W.
S. and E.
S.
X. and W.
APRIL TO OCTOBER.
Syd
40° S.
42° S.
42° S.
42° S.
36° S.
5° S.
0°
ney.
174° E.
175° E.
150° W.
120° W.
100° W.
82° W.
82° W.
40° S.
42° S.
42° S.
42° S.
36° S.
5° S.
0°
Cup
174° E.
175° E.
150° W.
120° W.
100° W.
82° W.
82° W.
ica.
S. 71° E.
S. 27° E.
E.
E.
X.71° E.
X. 28° E.
X.
X. 35° E.
1,110
135
1,561
1,338
1, 020
2,140
300
490
7.3
0.0
4.0
1.5
0.3
3.7
0.5
0.5
1,191
141
1,675
1,466
1, 066
2, 268
300
490
X.and E.
6.5
7.0
7.5
7.7
7.7
7.7
5. 5
5.0
6.0
0.0
4.0
1. 5
0.3
3.7
0.5
0.5
Variab
S, and E.
X.and E.
X. and E.
X. and E.
X.
X. and W.
X.
le.
0.5
0.8
0. 8
0.8
.0.5
0.6
0.8
8.1
0.7
8.7
7.3
5.1
12.0
2.1
4.6
1, no
1, 245
2, 806
4,144
5,164
7, 304
7, 604
8, 905
1,191
1, 332
3, 007
4, 473
5,539
7, 807
8,107
8, 595
8.1
8. 9
17.5
24.8
29.9
41.9
44.0
49.0
S. and W.
S. and W.
S. and W.
S. and E.
S.
S. and W.
RETURN ROUTES FROM CHINA, MANILA, AND JAPAN.
The season for the southwest monsoon is the most favorable one for ships leaving the ports of
the China coast for Cupica, as they can then run with a fair wind directly for the westerly winds
above 30° north, and with these make sufficient easting to insure a fair wind for running down the
northeast trades. To take this route during the other season, however, they must work to wind¬
ward against the northeast monsoon for some distance before reaching the westerly winds, and to
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
245
avoid this a southern route has been proposed by some, lying among the islands, and to the east¬
ward in the variables of the southern hemisphere.
The results of our calculations show a decided advantage in taking the northern route at all sea¬
sons.
The following are the results of the southern route from October to April, (and of course no
sane man would think of taking it at any other time :) Direct distance Hong-Kong to Cupica,
12,758 miles ; average distance, 13,780 miles; time, 81 days, which, compared with the results given
in the following tables, speak for themselves.
In fact the only great difficulty in taking this route during the northeast monsoon lies in get¬
ting to the eastward of the island of Formosa ; for once there the Japan current will be entered,
which would drift a ship into the westerly winds in 20 or 25 days, if she did not sail a mile. And if,
as is well known, ships constantly beat up the China Sea against both wind and current, they can
certainly have little difficulty in getting to windward here with the current. To take this route,
vessels leaving any of the ports should make the best of their way to the common starting point
in 34° north and 140° east, and thence take a great-circle track, all of which is set forth in the
following :
Table XL—RETURN ROUTE FROM CHINA, MANILA, AND JAPAN.
OCTOBER TO APRIL.
From—
To-
Distance.
Winds.
Currents.
Totals.
Latitude.
©
i-ÇS
P
-+=>
•FH
bo
1
Latitude.
©
3
32
be
8
©
m
t-»
3
-t-2
©
©
©
m cent, of
increase.
©
bC
a
t-1
©
>
^evail i n g
lirection.
■
©
©
u
a
m
g
'cS
q
3
©
• rH
©
©
f-i
©
©
©
W
Irect dis¬
tance.
srerage dis¬
tance.
Days.
P
P
O
O
P
P
P
P
P
P
p
P '
<1
o
Man
o
ila.
o
16 X.
o
119 E.
X. 45° W.
130
5.0
136
X. and E.
• 7.6
2.0
S. and W.
0.8
0.8
130
136
0.8
16 X.
119 E.
22 X.
122 E.
X. 22° W.
390
40.0
546
X. and E.
7.5
2.0
S. and W.
0.8
5.3
520
682
6.1
22 X.
122 E.
34 X.
140 E.
X. 52° E.
1, 220
59.2
1,939
X. and E.
7.0
2.5
X.and E.
1.3
11.0
1, 740
2, 621
17.1
Hong-
Kong.
22 X.
121 E.
S. 86° E.
400
21.5
486
X. and E.
7.0
0.5
S. and W.
0.8
6.0
400
486
6.0
22 X.
121 E.
34 X.
140 E.
X. 53° E.
1, 250
59.2
1, 990
X. and E.
7.0
2.5
X. and E.
1. 3
11.2
1, 650
2, 476
17.2
Shan
ghai.
31 X.
132 E.
S. 85° E.
520
7.5
560
X. and E.
6.5
2.5
Varia
ble.
3.6
520
560
3.6
31 X.
132 E.
34 X.
140 E.
X. 61° E.
440
59.2
700
X. and E.
6.5
1.0
X. and E.
1.3
3.5
960
1,260
7.1
Yoko
hama.
34 X.
140 E.
80
5.7
85
7.0
6.0
X. and E.
1.3
0.7
80
85
0.7
34 X.
140 E.
38 X.
150 E.
X. 67° E.
540
11.7
603
E.
7.5
4.0
X.and E.
1.3
3.0
540
603
3.0
38 X.
150 E.
42 X.
170 E.
X. 76° E.
990
14.4
1,132
X. and W.
7.5
3.2
X.and E.
1.3
5.5
1, 530
1,735
8.5
42 X.
170 E.
42 X.
165 W.
E.
1,115
6.0
1,182
X. and W.
7.7
2.0
E.
1.0
5.7
2, 645
2, 917
14.2
42 X.
165 W.
39 X.
150 W.
S. 76° E.
750
9.8
823
X. and W.
7. 7
2.5
E.
1.0
4.0
3, 395
3, 740
18.2
39 X.
150 W.
32 X.
130 W.
S. 65° E.
1,070
12. 0
1,099
X. and W.
7.5
2.7
S. and E.
1.0
5.5
4, 465
4, 839
23.7
32 X.
130 W.
26 X.
120 W.
S. 56° E.
700
3.2
722
X. and W.
6.5
3.5
S.
0.6
4.4
5,165
5, 561
28.1
26 X.
120 W.
19 X.
110 W.
S. 530 E.
700
5.2
736
X. and E.
6.0
4. 4
S. and W.
0.6
5.3
5, 865
6, 297
33.4
19 UST.
110 W.
5 X.
80 W.
S. 67° E.
1,900
8.4
2, 059
X.
6.0
7.7
S. and E.
0.6
14.0
7, 765
8, 356
47.4
5 N,
80 W.
Cup
ica.
E.
160
4.9
167
X. and W.
3.3
7.2
Varia
ble.
2.3
7, 825
8, 520
49.5
IIECAPITULATION.
Manila to Cupica
Hong-Kong to Cupica.
Shanghai to Cupica
Yokohama to Cupica ..
9, 565 11,145 67. 0
9, 475 11, 000 67. 0
8, 785 9, 780 56. 5
7, 905 8, 610 50. 5
246 D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
APRIL TO OCTOBER.
From—
To—
Distance.
Winds.
Currents.
Latitude.
<D
l=i
■f—1
bC
a
Latitude.
ps
fcC
a
45
05
U
3
-M
0
45
u
îr cent, of
ncrease.
<v
tuo
aj
U
45
i
[■evai ling
lirection.
•
0
0
u
0
05
a
a
0
• rH
-4-3
O
O
u
•
<D
«
U
O
m
P
P
O
O
p
P
<1
P
P
O
s
P
p
o
Man
o
ilia.
o
16 X.
1190 E.
X. 450 w.
130
8.7
141
S. anji W.
7.2
1.7
X.and E.
0.8
0.9
16 X.
119 E.
22 X.
122° E.
X. 22° E.
390
21.4
473
S. and W.
7.2
1.0
X. and E.
0.8
2.5
22 X.
122 E.
34 X.
140° E.
X. 52° E.
1,220
20.3
1, 167
S. and W.
6.5
0.5
X. and E.
1.3
7.8
Hong
Kong.
34 X.
140° E.
X. 61o E.
1, 510
20.3
1, 806
S. and W.
6.5
2.0
*X. and E.
1.2
9.7
Shan
gkai.
31 X.
132° E.
S. 85° E.
520
24.0
615
S.
6.5
3.4
Variab
le.
4.3
31 X.
132 E.
34 X.
132° E.
X.61° E.
440
20.3
528
S. and W.
6. 5
2.0
X.and E.
1.3
2. 8
Yoko
ham a.
34 X.
140° E.
80
13. 3
90
X.
7.0
4.0
X.and E.
1.3
0. 7
34 X.
140 E.
38 X.
150° E.
X. 67° E.
540
11.7
603
E.
7.5
4.0
X.and E.
1.3
3.0
38 X.
150 E.
42 X.
170° E.
X. 76°E.
990
14. 4
1,132
S. and W.
7. 5
3.2
X.and E.
1.3
5.5
42 X.
170 E.
42 X.
165° E.
E.
1,115
6.0
1,182
S. and W.
7. 7
2.0
E.
1.0
5.7
42 X.
165 E.
39 X.
150° W.
S. 76° E.
750
9.8
823
S. and W.
7.7
2.5
E.
1.0
4.0
39 X.
150 W.
32 X.
130° W.
S. 65° je.
1,070
12.0
1, 099
S. and W.
7.5
2.7
S. and E.
1.0
5.5
32 X.
130 W.
26 X.
120c w.
S.56°E.
700
3.2
722
X.and E.
6.5
3.5
S.
-0.6
4.4
26 X.
120 W.
19 X.
110° W.
S. 53° E.
700
5.2
736
X.and E.
6.0
4. 4
S. and W.
0.6
5.3
19 X.
110 W.
10 X.
100° w.
S. 470 E.
790
8. 4
856
X. and E.
5.6
8.0
S. and E.
0.6
6.2
10 X.
100 W.
3 X.
850 w.
S. 63° E.
990
15.2
1,140
Variable.
5.5
1.4
E.
0.5
8.1
3 X.
85 W.
Cup
ica.
X. 61o E.
520
2.0
530
S. and W.
3.3
4.9
Yariah
le.
7.0
Totals.
m
•M
H .
<c
§
O 2
£ -S
130
520
1,740
1,510
520
960
80
540
1,530
2, 645
3, 395
4, 465
5,165
5, 865
6, 655
7, 645
8,165
m
•r-i
^ .
<D 1>
be °
g g
<B -H
>
<1
141
614
2, 080
1, 805
645
1,170
90
603
1,735
2, 917
3, 740
4, 839
5, 561
6,297
7,153
8, 293
8, 823
oo
«
0.9
3. 4
11.2
9. 7
4.3
7.1
0.7
3.0
8.5
14.2
18.2
23.7
28.1
33. 4
39.6
47.7
54.0
RECAPITULATION.
9, 905
10, 904
65.0
9, 675
10, 630
64.0
9,125
9, 995
61.0
8, 245
8,915
55.0
Manila to Cupica
Hong-Kong to Cupica
Shanghai to Cupica...
Yokohama to Cupica..
* Through Formosa Channel the current sets to the southward and westward.
From 31° north, 140° east, to 19° north, 110° west, the route in the table is a sufficiently close
approximation to a great circle for all practical purposes, and it is a practicable route at all seasons?
although it is somewhat higher than the one generally pursued. There is no doubt that the higher
route would give, as a rule, the better winds ; so the only question is one of current. According
to Kerhallet the axis of the Japan current lies in an irregular curve between 35° and 40° north,
so that by going above 40° its influence would be lost. Rosser, on the other hand, places its axis
along 40° and above, and Berghaus places it still higher. The weight of testimony would seem
to indicate that this current sweeps well to the northward, which would be favorable for the great
circle route. If this is the case the Pacific mail-steamers might, it would seem, shorten consider¬
ably the time of their return trips by taking a great circle, instead of the rhomb-line that they
now follow, although the latter would be the better for the outw ard passage. The track in the
table might, after passing 130° west, take ships too near the coast from April to October, when the
southerly monsoon is blowing. Should they observe any indications of a falling off of the trades,
therefore, they should at once keep away to the southward.
RETURN ROUTE FROM THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
To return to Cupica from the Sandwich Islands, it is necessary to stand to the northward
into the westerly winds, and with those make enough easting to stand down through the trade s,
and make the port as circumstances will allow. From October to April ships may stand well to
the eastward to pick up the northerly monsoon and run down the coast, but during the other
season they must give the coast a wide berth, and stand well to the southward and make up the
rest of their easting near the equator.
DARIEN SHIP-OANAL. 247
Table XII.—RETURN ROUTE FROM THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
OCTOBER TO APRIL.
• From—
To—
Distance.
Winds
«
Currents.
Totals from Honolulu.
Latitude.
•
©
TZ
Pi
■+3
•p-(
b£
§
Latitude.
•
©
p
-M
• M
be
p
*
O)
m
u
p
•
©
©
f-l
ir cent, of
increase.
•
©
bfl
«S
u
©
Prevai ling
direction.
©
©
Calms.
•
p
o
•M
©
©
f-l
•
©
©
PH
•
oo
cô
Lrect dis¬
tance.
erage dis¬
tance.
CQ
ka
c3
P
P
O
p
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
o
Honol
O
uln.
0
30 N.
o
160 W.
N. 17° W.
565
3.5
585
N. and E.
7.6
3. 0
Varia
ble.
3.3
565
585
3.3
30 N.
160 W.
35 N.
155 W.
N. 41° E.
400
11.0
444
Variable.
7.0
3.0
Varia
ble.
2.6
965
1, 029
5.9
35 N.
155 W.
35 N.
150 W.
E.
246
5.3
260
N. and W.
7.5
0.5
Varia
ble.
1.4
1,211
1, 289
7.3
35 N.
150 W.
33 N.
140 W.
S. 76° E.
500
25.3
627
N. and W.
7.5
2.0
Varia
ble.
3.5
1, 711
1,916
10.8
33 N.
140 W.
19 N.
110 W.
S. 63° E.
1, 850
7.0
1,980
N. and E.
7.0
4.0
S. and W.
0.6
12.3
3, 561
3, 895
23.1
19 N.
110 W.
7 N.
80 W.
S. 67° E.
1,900
8.4
2, 060
N.
6.0
7.7
S. and E.
0.6
14.0
5, 461
5, 954
37.1
7N.
80 W.
Cupi
ca.
E.
160
4.9
167
S.
3.3
7.2
Varia
ble.
2.3
5,620
6,121
39.0
APRIL TO OCTOBER.
Honol
ulu.
30 N.
160 W.
N. 17° Wr.
565
4.5
589
N. and E.
8.0
2. 0
Varia
ble.
3.1
565
589
3.1
30 1ST.
160 W.
35 N.
155 W.
N. 41° E.
400
14.1
456
Variable.
7.5
5,5
Varia
ble.
2.6
965
1, 045
5.7
35 N.
155 W.
35 N.
150 W.
E.
246
10.0
270
S. and W.
7.5
3.0
Varia
ble.
1.5
1,211
1,315
7.2
35 N.
150 W.
33 N.
140 W.
S. 76° E.
500
11.7
558
S. and W.
7.5
3.0
Varia
ble.
3.1
1, 711
1, 873
10.3
33 N.
140 W.
10 N.
105 W.
S. 55° E.
2,410
4.7
2, 523
N. and E.
7.0
5.0
S. and W.
0.6
15.7
4,121
4, 396
26.0
10N.
105 W.
2 N.
85 W.
S. 69° E.
1,255
15.2
1, 443
S.
5.5
5.0
E.
0.5
10.4
5, 376
5, 839
36.4
2 N.
85 W.
Cupi
ca.
N.61° E.
520
2.0
530
S. and W.
3.3
5.0
Varia
ble.
7.0
5, 895
6, 370
43.0
RETUKN ROUTE FROM VALPARAISO AND CALLAO.
The prevailing wind upon the west coast of South America being from the southward, this
passage can be made without difficulty at all seasons. It is only necessary, on leaving port, to
stand off 180 to 200 miles and then run to the northward, keeping about parallel to the coast, until
it becomes convenient to head direct for your port.
Table XIII.-RETURN ROUTE FROM VALPARAISO.
OCTOBER TO APRIL.
From—
To—
Distance.
Winds.
Currents.
Totals from Valparaiso.
Latitude.
©
<TZ
P
-M
•r«
fcJO
«
©
<TZ
P
-+->
•>—t
-4P
©
P
-H>
te
p
m
U
P
©
©
u
îr cent, of
increase.
©
be
c3
f-
©
f>
Prevailing
direction.
©
©
M
Calms.
p
.2
-M
©
©
p
©
©
M
©
00
irect dis¬
tance.
perage dis¬
tance.
m
cS
p
P
P
O
p
P
<1
P
P
P
P
P
<1
p
Valpa
raiso.
30° S.
75° W.
N. 45° W.
255
5. 5
270
N.
7.0
5.2
N.
0.6
1.7
255
270
1.7
30° S.
75° W.
20° S.
75° W.
N.
600
5.6
634
S.
6.5
4.0
N.
0.6
t 4
855
903
6.1
20° S.
75° W.
10° S.
82° W.
N. 34° W.
72G
0.4
721
S.
6.0-
1.3
N.
0.6
5.1
1,575
1, 624
11.2
10° S.
82° W.
5° S.
82° W.
N.
300
0.0
300
S.
6.0
1.0
N.
0.6
2.1
1,875
1,924
13.3
5° S.
82° "W.
0°
82° W.
N.
300
0.4
300
S.
7.0
2.1
N. and W.
0.6
1.7
2,175
2, 224
15.0
S»
i
82° W.
Cup
ica.
N. 35° E.
490
2.0
500
N. and W.
5.0
4. 4
S.
0.8
4.8
2, 665
2, 720
20.0
APRIL TO OCTOBER.
Valpa
raiso.
30° S.
75° W.
N. 45° W.
255
6.2
270
S.
6.5
4.0
N.
0.6
1.7
255
270
1.7
30° S.
75° W.
20° S.
75° W.
N.
600
1.0
606
S.
6.0
1.0
N.
0-6
4. 3
855
876
6. 0
20° S.
*75° W.
10° S.
82° W.
N. 34° W.
720
0.0
720
S.
5.5
1.0
N.
0.6
5.5
1, 575
1, 596
11.5
10° S.
82° W.
5° S.
82° W.
N.
300
0.0
300
s.
5.5
0.0
. N.
0.6
2.3
1, 875
1, 896
13.8
5° S.
82° W.
0°
82° W.
N.
300
0.0
300
s.
5.5
0.5
N. and W.
0.6
2.1
2,175
2,196
15.9
0°
82° W.
Cup
lCâii
N. 35° E.
490
0.0
490
S. and W.
5.0
0.5
N.
0.8
4.6
2, 665
2, 685
21.0
248 DAEIEN SHIP-CANAL.
Table XIVRETURN ROUTE FROM CALLAO.
OCTOBER TO APRIL.
From—
To—
Distance.
Winds
Currents.
Totals from Callao.
Latitude.
LoDgitude.
Latitude.
Longitude.
Course.
Direct.
i
Per cent, of
increase.
Average.
Prevail i n g
direction.
Force.
Calms.
Direction.
•
©
0
u
0
pr
Days.
Direct dis¬
tance.
Average dis¬
tance.
)
1
Days.
Cal
lao.
10° S.
82° W.
N. 75° W.
300
1.1
303
S. and E.
6.0
1.5
X.
0.6
2.1
300
303
2.1
10° S.
82° W.
5° S.
82° W.
X.
300
0.0
300
S.
6. 0
1.0
X".
0.6
2.1
600
603
4.2
50 s.
82° W.
0
82° W.
X.
300
0.4
301
S.
7.0
2.1
X.
0.6
1.7
900
904
5.9
0
82° W.
Cup
ica.
X. 35° E.
490
2.0
500
X. and W.
5.0
4.4
s.
0.8
4.8
1, 390
1,400
10.0
APRIL TO OCTOBER.
Cal
lao.
10° s.
82° W.
X. 75° W.
300
0.6
302
S. and E.
5.5
2.2
X.
0.6
2.3
300
302
2.3
10° S.
82° W.
5° s.
82° W.
X.
300
0.0
300
S.
5.5
0.0
X.
0.6
2.3
600
602
4.6
5° s.
82° W.
0
82° W.
X".
300
0.0
300
S.
5.5
0.5
X. and W.
0.6
2. I
900
902
6.7
0
82° W.
Cup
ica.
X. 35° E.
490
0.0
490
S. and W.
5.0
0.5
X.
0.8
4.6
1, 390
1, 390
11.0
BET URN ROUTE FROM SAN FRANCISCO.
The winds on the coast of California prevail from the northward and westward, although
during the winter months southerly and southwesterly winds are not infrequent. Ships leaving
San Francisco with the northwest wind, would, of course, have no difficulty, taking only the pre¬
caution to secure a good offing, and then running down with the wind and favorable current.
Remembering, however, that the southerly monsoon prevails on the Mexican coast from April to
October, they should at that season draw away from the coast and get into the trades, with which
they may run to the southward and eastward and make their port as previously described.
Table XV.—RETURN ROUTE FROM SAN FRANCISCO.
OCTOBER TO APRIL.
From—
To—
Distance.
Winds.
Current.
Totals from San
Francisco.
Latitude.
/
©
a
•rH
bo
S
Latitude.
©
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a
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• rH
be
S3
0
rJi
U
P
43
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©
©
ït cent, of
ncrease.
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bc
«
M
©
p-
bfi
a a
•H O
rH -rH
•rH
cS w
Î S
© "iH
©
©
SH
Calms.
S3
©
•rH
0
rH
.
©
©
©
oî
irect dis¬
tance.
eerage dis-
tance.
!
•
m
Cj
ft
ft
o
ft
w ♦r-i
ft
<1
pr
Pr
ft
pr
ft
ft
ft
S. Fran
cisco.
35° X.
125° W.
S. 37° W.
189
7. 7
205
S, and W.
7.7
7.0
S. and E.
0.7
1.1
189
205
1.1
35° X.
125° W.
26° X".
120°*W.
S. 26° E.
610
3.0
625
X".
7.0
3.0
S.
0.7
3.5
799
830
4.6
26° X.
120° W.
19° X.
110° W.
S. 53° E.
700
5.2
736
X. and E.
6.0
4.4
S. and W.
0.6
5.3
1,499
1, 566
9.9
19° X.
110° W.
7 OX".
80° W.
S. 67° E.
1,900
8.4
2, 059
X.
6.0
7.7
S. and E.
0.6
14.0
3, 399
3, 625
23.9
7° X.
80° W.
Cupi
ca.
E.
160
4.9
165
X. and W.
3.3
7.2
Varia
ble.
2.3
3, 560
3, 790
26.0
APRIL TO OCTOBER.
35° X.
125° W.
S. 37° W.
189
2.7
195
X. and W.
7.3
8.0
S. and E.
0.7
1.1
189
195
1.1
35° X.
125° W.
26° X.
120° W.
S. 26° E.
610
1.0
616
X.
6.5
1.5
S.
0.7
3.5
799
811
4.6
26° X.
120° W.
19° X.
110° W.
S. 53° E.
700
5.2
736
X. and E.
6.0
4.4
S. and W.
0.6
5.3
1, 499
1, 547
9.9
190 X.
110° W.
10° X.
100° W.
S. 47° E.
790
8. 4
856
X. and E.
5.6
8.0
S. and E.
0.6
6.2
2, 289
2, 403
16.1
10° X.
100° W.
2° X.
85° W.
S. 63° E.
990
15.0
1,140
Variable.
5.5
1.4
E.
0.5
8.1
3, 279
3, 543
24.2
2° X.
85° W.
Cupi
Cclu
X. 61° E.
520
2.0
530
S. and W.
3.3
4.9
Varia
ble.
7.0
3, 800
4, 073
31.0
With this completion of the return routes, we will add a summary of the results given in the
foregoing tables.
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
249
TABLE XVI.—RECAPITULATION OF TIMES AND DISTANCES BY SAILING ROUTES.
From-
Cupica
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Sydney ....
Hong-Kong ...
Shanghai
Manila
Yokohama
Honolulu
Valparaiso....
Callao
San Francisco.
To—
Sidney
Hong-Kong...
do
Shanghai
Manila
—do
Yokohama
Batavia
Honolulu
Valparaiso
Callao
San Francisco
Cupica
— do
do
....do
—do
— do
—do
— do
—do
October to April.
April to October.
Remarks.
Direct
distance.
Average
distance.
Days.
Direct
; distance.
Average
distance.
Days.
8,180
8, 545
55.0
8,145
8, 510
50.0
Table II.
10, 360
10, 660
60.0
10,000
10, 280
62.0
Table HI. Northern route.
10, 680
11, 050
66.5
10, 650
11, 020
66.0
Table IV. Southern route.
10, 060
10, 410
58.0
9, 750
10, 010
60.0
Table III. Northern route.
10,120
10, 310
56.0
9,810
10,110
60.5
Table III. Northern route.
10, 090
10, 430
63.0
10, 060
10, 380
62.5
Table IV. Southern route.
9, 370
9, 810
58.0
9,110
9, 350
57.0
Table III. Northern route.
11, 410
11, 860
64.5
10, 840
11, 080
65.0
Table V.
5, 260
5,430
32.0
4, 950
5, 220
33.0
Table VI.
4,270
4, 700
31.0
4,150
4, 380
30.0
Table VII.
4, 780
5,170
33.0
4, 050
4, 310
29.5
Table VIII.
5,170
5, 550
36.0
5,170
5, 550
36.0
Table IS.
8, 090
8, 680
48.0
8, 090
8, 590
49.0
Table X.
9, 470
11,000
67.0
9, 680
10, 630
64.0
Table XI.
8, 785
9, 780
56.5
9,125
9, 995
61.0
Table XI.
9, 565
11,145
67.0
9, 905
10, 905
65.0
Table XI.
7, 905
8, 610
50.5
8, 245
8, 915
55.0
Table XI.
5, 620
6,120
39.0
5, 895
6, 370
43.0
Table XII.
2, 665
2, 720
20.0
2, 665
2, 685
21.0
Table XIII.
1, 390
1, 400
10.0
1, 390
1, 390
11.0
Table XIV.
3, 560
3, 790
26.0
3, 800
4, 070
31.0
Table XV.
Note.—The figures under the head of " direct distance" indicate the distance in nautical miles, measured on the route given in the table
referred to.
Table XVII.—SHOWING THE PROBABLE GAIN IN DISTANCE AND TIME TO BE EFFECTED FOR SAILING-
VESSELS TO AND FROM THE PORT OF NEW YORK, BY A SHIP-CANAL ACROSS THE ISTHMUS OF
DARIEN, OVER THE ROUTE SURVEYED BY COMMANDER T. O. SELFRIDGE.
From-
New York
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Hong-Kong...
Shanghai
Yokohama
Manila
Sydney
Valparaiso
Callao
Honolulu
San Francisco.
To-
Hong-Kong
Shanghai
Yokohama
Manila
Batavia
Sydney
Valparaiso
Callao
Honolulu
San Francisco
New York
do
do
do
.......do
do
do
......do
do
By present route.
Route.
Via Cape of Good Hope.
do
do
do
do
do
Via Cape Horn
do
do
do
Via Cape of Good Hope.
do
do
do
Via Cape Horn
do
do
do
do
Distance.
14, 930
15, 200
15, 750
13, 700
12,170
13, 220
9, 760
11,100
14, 500
14, 840
14, 660
16, 000
16, 070
14, 010
13, 410
9, 780
11,120
15, 760
14, 970
Days.
110
115
119
108
105
105
90
105
121
130
110
113
114
109
110
90
100
110
125
Via canal.
Gain.
Distance.
Days.
Distance.
Days.
12, 480
83
2,450
27
12, 200
81
3, 000
34
11, 550
79
4,200
40
12,260
80
1,440
28
13, 425
87
18
10, 480
75
2, 740
30
6, 510
52
3,250
38
6, 710
53
4, 390
52
7, 400
54
7,100
67
7, 470
58
7, 370
72
11, 875
87
2, 785
23
11, 305
80
4, 695
33
10, 370
77
5, 700
37
12, 035
88
1, 975
21
10, 390
70
3, 020
40
4, 965
42
4,815
48
3, 690
32
7, 430
68
8, 055
63
7, 705
47
5, 980
50
8, 990
75
Note.—The " distances by present route" are in nautical miles, measured on the routes now generally pursued ; the times are actual
averages obtained from various reliable sources; the times and distances by canal are obtained by adding 2,300 miles and twenty-two days to
the averages in Table XVI.
STEAMEE EOUTES.
In deciding upon a route to be pursued by a steam-vessel many questions present themselves
for consideration. Although—independent to a certain extent of winds and currents—the steamer
may be able to shape her course as convenience may dictate, yet it is by no means to be supposed
that a knowledge of these, well turned to account, will not result in quick and economical pas-
H. Mis. 113 32
250
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
sages. As a matter of fact, moreover, tlie steamers of the present day are independent of winds
and currents to a very limited extent only, for until some means are devised for generating steam
with some less bulky material than coal, they must depend, in no small degree, upon their sails
whenever long passages are to be made.
Whenever, then, a steamer route is to be laid out between any two ports separated by many
thousands of miles, one of two things must be done. Either such a route must be chosen as will,
by favorable winds and currents, (supposing the vessel to be so rigged as to enable her to take
advantage of such winds,) bring down the consumption of coal to within the limits of the capacity
of the vessel, or else she must seek some mid-way post where the supply of hiel can be replenished.
If the former, then the route may be selected as for sailing-vessels, by considerations of wind and
current only ; if the latter, it remains only to take whatever advantage of favorable winds and
currents the restrictions upon the route will allow.
In the following routes we have endeavored to keep in mind these considerations and fulfill
their conditions. They are given, however, merely as a basis for estimates, as it is of course im¬
possible to predict the requirements of the vast commerce that must spring up, as the resources
of the innumerable islands of the Pacific are developed.
As in sailing-routes, we commence with that to Australia. Cupica Bay and Sidnfey are so
situated with reference to each other, that the great circle is, with little modification, available for
both the outward and return trips 5 and this route also has the advantage of lying sufficiently
near to the windward islands of the Low Archipelago, to render them convenient for the establish¬
ment of a coaling station, should, one be necessary. Eindlay, in speaking of a route for steam
communication between Australia and Panama, mentions this advantage as follows : " It is sur¬
prising that this group, (the Gambier Islands,) lying to windward of all the dangers of the
Western Pacific, possessing, moreover, almost exclusively, the advantage of a water-supply, and
having tolerable anchorage, should not have been before suggested as a midway post on this
trans-Pacific route. It is here recommended to the notice of those who may be interested in the
establishment of this desirable communication."
This route, as I have laid it out, consists of a great circle from Cupica to Cape Maria, Yan
Dieman, and thence due west to Sidney. This will be found rather more favorable for the outward
than the return passage, on account of getting the southeast trades on the quarter, as well as of
being helped along by the equatorial current. On the return, however, a full-powered steamer,
should she be obliged to stop at the Gambier Islands, would on this route be enabled, by the use
of her fore and aft sails, to make good the disadvantage of the contrary current. Full-rigged
auxiliary steamers, capable of doing well under sail alone, and not being obliged to stop for coal,
would do better by keeping farther to the eastward upon their return, before hauling to the north¬
ward, so as to get the wind free while running down the southeast trades3
The following table gives information with regard to the winds and currents that may be
expected. The times have been estimated by taking a speed of ten knots as a basis, under ordi¬
nary circumstances. In those regions where favorable winds and currents are well known to
prevail, this speed has been increased, and where they are equally well known to be adverse, it
has been proportionately diminished.
Table XVIII.—STEAMER ROUTE TO AUSTRALIA.—GREAT CIRCLE.
From—
To—
Course.
Distance.
Winds.
Currents.
Days.
Totals.
Latitude.
Longitude.
Latitude. *
Longitude.
October to
April.
April to Oc¬
tober.
Distance.
Days.
Cup
ica.
0°
87° W.
S. 56° W.
720
X. and W.
S. and W.
Variable.
3.0
720
3.0
0°
87° W.
13° S.
107° W.
S. 56° W.
1, 440
S. and E.
S. and E.
Westerly.
4.4
2,160
7.4
133 S.
107° W.
24° S.
127° W.
S. 60° W.
1,330
S. and E.
S. and E.
Westerly.
5.0
3, 490
12.4
24° S.
1270 W.
31° S.
147° W.
S. 69° W.
I," 180
X. and W.
S. and E.
Westerly.
5.0
4, 670
17.4
31° S.
147° W.
33° S.
167° W.
S. 83° W.
1,000
X. and W.
S. and E.
Variable.
4.2
5, 670
21.6
33° S.
167° W.
Sid
ney.
S. 88° W.
2, 000
X. and W.
S. and E.
Variable.
8.4
7, 670
30.0
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL. 251
TABLE XIX.—STEAMER ROUTE FROM AUSTRALIA.—GREAT CIRCLE.
From—
To-
1
Course.
Distance.
Winds.
Currents.
t
Days.
Totals.
Latitude.
Longitude.
Latitude.
Longitude.
October to
April.
April to Oc¬
tober.
Distance.
Days.
Sid
ney.
33° K
167° W.
N.88° E.
2, 000
N. and W.
S. and E.
Variable.
8.4
2,000
8.4
33° S.
167° W.
310 g.
1470 W.
N. 83° E.
1,000
N. and W.
S. and E.
Variable.
4.2
3, 000
12.6
31° S.
147° W.
240 s.
1270 W.
1ST. 69° E.
1,180
jST. and W.
S. and E.
Westerly.
4.9
4,180
17.5
24° S.
127° W.
130 s.
1070 w.
N. 60° E.
1, 330
S. and E.
S. and E.
Westerly.
5.5
5, 510
23.0
13° S.
107° W.
00
87° W.
N. 56° E.
1, 440
S. and E.
S. and E.
Westerly.
6.0
6, 950
29.0
0°
87° W.
Cup
ica.
H".56° E.
720
N. and W.
S. and W.
Variable.
3.0
7, 670
32.0
STEAMER ROUTE TO CHINA, MANILA, AND JAPAN, VIA HONOLULU.
In laying off this route, we have made a midway post of Honolulu, both on account of its
advantages for a coaling station, and also of its commercial importance. It lies almost directly in
the most favorable route for the outward passage, and we have also laid out a return route passing
through it, which promises very favorable results.
The outward route lies due west from Cupica to 85° west, thence the are of a great circle to
Honolulu, thence southward and westward to latitude 17° north, in order to keep the strength of
the equatorial current, and then along that parallel to 140° east, whence the course lies to Hong-
Kong by the Bashee Channel, or to Manila by the strait of San Bernardino. If bound to Shanghai,
follow this route to 155° east, and thence steer for the port direct. If bound to Yokohama, follow
this route to Honolulu, leaving which port, steer a little to the north of west to keep within the
limits of the trade-winds, until on the meridian of 155° east, and then head up for the port. All
of which is set forth in the following:
Table XX.—STEAMER ROUTE TO CHINA, MANILA, AND JAPAN, VIA HONOLULU.
From—
To—
Winds.
From Cupica.
Latitude.
Longitude.
Latitude.
Longitude.
Course.
Distance.
October to
April.
April to Oc¬
tober.
Currents.
ré
p
Total d i s -
tance.
Total days.
Cup
7° K
16° K
190 N.
Hon
17° H.
17° 1ST.
17® K
ica.
85° W .
117r VV.
1370 w.
olulu.
170° W.
155° E.
140° E.
7° N.
16° K
19° N.
Hon
17° N.
170 N.
17° N.
Hong-
85° W.
117° W.
137° w.
olulu.
170^ W.
155° E.
140° E.
Kong.
West.
N. 73° W.
N. 80° W.
N, 850 W.
S. 73° W.
W.
W.
N. 78° W.
466
1, 920
1,210
1,260
750
2, 009
900
1,350
K and W.
N. and E.
H. and E.
N. and E.
N. and E.
K and E.
N. and E.
N. and E.
S. and W.
N. and E.
N. and E.
N. and E.
N. and E.
N. and E.
S. and W.
S. and W.
Variable.
Variable.
Westerly.
Westerly.
Westerly.
Westerly.
Westerly.
ÎL and W.
2.4
8. 0
3.8
4.3
3.1
6.9
3.7
5.2
466
2, 386
3, 596
4, 856
5, 606
7, 615
8, 515
9, 865
2. 4
10.4
14.2
18.5
21.6
28.5
32.2
37.0
17° N.
13° N.
140° E.
125° E.
13° N.
Man
125° .E
ila.
S. 72° W. '
870
320
H. and E.
S. and W.
V ariable.
ÎST. and W.
3.6
1.3
9, 385
9, 705
35.8
37.0
17° N.
153° E.
Shang
hai.
H. 64° W.
1, 890
N. and E.
S. and W.
Variable.
7.8
9, 305
36.0
Honol
25° K
ulu.
155° E.
25° K
Yoko
155° E.
liama.
N. 85° W.
N. 53° W.
2, 520
1,000
K. and E.
N. and E.
N. and E.
S. and W.
V ariable.
Variable.
10.5
4.2
7, 376
8, 375
29.0
33.0
STEAMER ROUTE FROM CHINA, MANILA, AND JAPAN, YIA HONOLULU.
To return from either of these a steamer has the choice of several routes. If wishing to go
direct from any one port to Cupica, and if of sufficient sailing power to take advantage of the
westerly winds and save her coal, she may take the great circle route, as before given for sailing-
ships. As, however, in establishing a line of steamers, it would probably be contemplated to
252
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
touch at several of the more important ports, rather to run direct to and from any single one, we
will first give the route by which a round trip may be made ; going by the route in Table XX to
Manila, thence to Hong-Kong, thence to Yokohama, and thence by the way of Honolulu to the
starting-point, Cupica. The plan of such a route would be to run from Manila to Hong-Kong,
thence through the Formosa Channel to Yokohama, whence the arc of a great cricle should be
followed to Honolulu. From this port a considerable deflection from the direct route would have
to be made in order to avoid steaming against the equatorial current, a southeasterly course being
pursued until well into the counter-current, when an easterly course may be laid for Cupica, as by
the following :
TABLE XXI.—STEAMER ROUTE FROM MANILA, HONG-KONG, AND YOKOHAMA, VIA HONOLULU.
From
©
P
-t-3
cS
P
Man
Hong
Yoko
34° X.
33° X.
27° X.
Hono
70 sr.
a?
P
+3
•H
fcJO
a
©
P
ila.
Kong,
hama.
150° E.
170° E.
170° W.
lulu.*
130° W.
To—
©
p
ct
Hi
Hong
Yoko
34° X.
33° X.
27° X.
Hono
70 X.
Cup
©
p
-+3
'So
p
o
Hi
Kong,
hama.
150° E.
170° E.
170° W.
lulu.
130° W.
ica.*
©
00
H
P
©
o
X. 340 W.
X. 61° E.
E.
S. 84° E.
S. 71° E.
S. 63° E.
S. 60° E.
E.
©
©
a
©
-1-3
00
590
1,510
490
960
1,080
790
1, 830
3,160
Winds.
©
JU •'-<
Pi
s 4?
©
o
X. and E.
X. and E.
X. and E.
X. and W.
X. and E.
X. and E.
X. and E.
Dold
© .
+3 t-i
©
&
V, ®
u ©
30
■*A
S. and W.
S. and W.
S. and W.
S. and W.
X.and E.
X. and E.
X. and E.
rums.
0Q
+3
a
©
H
P
o
With wind.
X. and E.
X. and E.
E.
E.
Variable.
W.
E.
so
>3
c4
P
2.5
5.7
2.0
3.3
4.5
3.3
7.6
12.0
Totals from
Manila.
©
©
a
•43»
05
590
2,100
2, 590
3, 550
4, 630
5, 420
7,250
10, 410
05
6
P
2.5
8.2
10.2
13.5
18.0
21.3
28.9
41.0
Totals from
Hong-Kong.
©
©
p
ct
GO
•M
1,510
2, 000
2,960
4,040
4,830
6, 660
9,820
05
cS
P
5.7
7.7
11.0
15.5
18.8
26.4
38.0
Totals from
Yokohama.
©
©
§
-t-3
05
490
1, 450
2, 530
3, 320
5,150
8, 310
* From Honolulu to Cupica, 5,000 miles, 19 days.
By combining the times and distances in the foregoing table with those given in Table XX
the times and distances for round trips to any or all of the ports mentioned may be easily obtained
It is to be observed, however, that Table XXI does not give the shortest time or least distance
possible for the return trip from either of these ports, since, in the route given, a wide detour has
been made in order to secure a favorable midway port at Honolulu.
The least distance, consistent with favorable winds and currents, is to be found in the com¬
pound great circle route as given in the following table, and this route will also give the shortest
time, provided the steamers carry sufficient sail to enable them to take advantage of favorable
wind, and save their coal for use when the wind comes out ahead. For ships dependent upon
steam alone this would hardly be a practicable route, as the distance is great and it passes near no
island available for a coaling station.
TABLE XXII.-GREAT CIRCLE STEAMER ROUTE FROM MANILA, CHINA, AND JAPAN.
From—
To—
Winds.
Totals from
Manila.
Totals from
Hong-Kong.
Totals from
Yokohama.
•
©
n©
•
©
©s
P
«
©
TJ
©
n©
P
•
<32
©
©
October to
April.
©
+3 ÊH
©
J©
CO
ft
•
©
©
«
©
©
©
P
+3
oS
i-4
•r-t
bti
P
O
P
P
-t-i
•rH
-M
cS
P
• rH
&J0
p
©
p
m
U
P
©
o
H
et
tfi
•rH
P
April
Octol
<D
§
o
•
m
i>>
cS
P
W
oS
-H
05
• i-(
P
Days.
-M
GO
! -rH
P
•
to
k)
cts
p
M
<A
+3
oo
• rH
P
Days.
Man
Hong
Yoko
ila.
Kong,
hama.
Hong
Yoko
38° X.
Kong,
liam a.
150° E.
X. 34° W.
X. 61° E.
X. 67° E.
590
1, 510
X. and E.
X. and E.
X. and W.
S. and W.
S. and W.
S. and W.
With wind.
X. and E.
X. and E.
2. 5
590
2.5
5. 7
2,100
2, 640
8.2
1, 510
2,050
5.7
540
1.7
9.9
7.4
540
1.7
38° X.
150° E.
42° X.
170° E.
X. 76° E.
990
W.
W.
E.
3. 4
3, 630
13.3
3, 040
10.8
1,530
5.1
42° X.
170° E.
42° X.
165° W.
E.
1,115
W.
W.
E.
3.9
4, 745
17.2
4,155
14.7
2, 645
9.0
42° X.
165° W.
39° X.
150° W.
S. 76° E.
750
w.
W.
E.
2.6
5, 945
19.8
4,905
17.3
3, 395
11.6
3,9° X.
150° W.
32° X.
130° W.
S. 65° E.
1, 070
w.
W.
S. and E.
4.0
6, 565
23.8
5, 975
21.3
4, 465
15.6
32° X.
130° W.
26° X.
120° W.
S. 56° E.
700
X. and E.
W.
S. and E.
2.6
7,265
26.4
6, 675
23.9
5,165
18.2
26° X.
120° W.
19° X.
110° W.
S. 53° E.
700
X. and W.
S. and E.
S. and E.
2.9
7, 965
29.3
7, 375
26.8
5, 865
21.1
19° X.
110° W.
7° X.
80° W.
S. 67° E.
1, 900
X. and W.
S. and E.
With wind.
8.0
9, 865
37.3
9, 275
35.8
7, 645
29.1
7° X.
80° W.
Cup
ica.
E.
160
X. and W.
S. and W.
Variable.
0.7
10, 025
38.0
9, 435
36.5
7,825
30.0
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
253
STEAMER ROUTE TO BATAVIA.
The route to Manila as already described, would answer equally well for Batavia, which would
be reached from Manila by steaming down the China Sea. Such a route would be specially
advantageous during the season of the northeast monsoon, but during the other season it would
necessitate steaming against the prevailing wind after leaving Manila. Batavia might at that
season be reached by a route lying south of the equator, by the way of Torres Strait. The fol¬
lowing table exhibits such a route, which lies near several of the important island groups, and
would require but a slight deflection to touch at the Marquesas :
Table XXIII.—STEAMER ROUTE TO BATAVIA.
From—
To—
Course.
Distance.
Winds.
«
m
-+->
S
o>
u
u
s
0
Days.
Totals.
Latitude.
i
Longitude.
Latitude.
Longitude.
1
! October to
April.
1
:
April to Oc¬
tober.
Distance.
•
m
&
P
Cup
1C 3>*
1° S.
110° W.
S.77° W.
2, 050
S. and E.
S. and E.
w.
8.5
2, 050
8.5
1° S.
110° w.
5° S.
140° W.
S. 82° W.
1, 810
S. and E.
S. and E.
W.
6.0
3, 860
14.5
5° s.
140° W.
13° s.
160° E.
S. 82° W.
3, 600
E.
E.
W.
13.0
7, 460
27.5
130 s.
160° E.
50 s.
110° E.
X. 81° W.
3,100
X. and W.
S. and E.
Variable.
13.0
10, 500
40.5
50 s.
110° E.
Bat
avia.
S. 66° W.
200
X. and W.
S. and E.
Variable.
0.8
10, 700
41.0
In returning from Batavia, it would require a roundabout course to get into either of the
regions of westerly winds ; it would, therefore, seem most advantageous for a steamer to turn to
account the equatorial counter-current, which sets strongly to the eastward between 5° north and
10° north, and which offers the most direct route homeward. This route would take her along the
southern limit of the Caroline Archipelago, and between the Marshall and Gilbert Islands. It is
shown by the following :
Table XXIV.—STEAMER ROUTE FROM BATAVIA.
From—
To—
|
Course.
D ce.
Winds.
Currents.
Days.
Totals.
Latitude.
Longitude.
i
.
Latitude.
Longitude.
I
October to
April.
April to Oc¬
tober.
Distance.
m
ks
P
Bat
avia.
40 s.
117° E.
X. 77° E.
620
X. and W.
S. and E.
E.
3.0
620
3.0
4° s.
117° E.
4° X.
121° E.
X. 29° E.
520
X.
2.0
1,140
5.0
40 X.
121° E.
7° X.
160° W.
X. 88° E.
4, 740
Doldr
urns.
E.
19.0
5, 880
24.0
70 X.
160° W.
Cup
ica.
E.
4, 940
Doldr
urns.
E.
20.0
10, 820
44.0
Lines of steam communication being already established between Panama, San Francisco, and
the various ports of the west coast of South America, it seems unnecessary to enter into a discussion of
routes between these places and Cupica, since the difference in time would amount to but the frac¬
tion of a day. Those already given will, I think, be sufficient to form a basis from which estimates
may be made for any line that may be desirable, since they cover, in a general way, the greater
part of the Pacific, and since the various routes have been so subdivided into sections as to enable
one to combine them as circumstances may require. We will now, for convenience of reference,
give a recapitulation of the results given in the foregoing tables.
254 D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
table xxv.—recapitulation op times and distances by steamer routes.
From—
To—
Cupica
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Do
Sydney ....
Hong-Kong
Do
Manila
Do
Yokohama.
Do
Honolulu ..
Batavia
Sydney
Hong-Kong
Manila
Shanghai ...
Yokohama.
Honolulu...
Batavia
Cupica
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
Distance.
Time.
Remarks.
7, 670
30.0
Table XVIII.
9, 865
37.0
Table XX. Via Honolulu.
9, 705
37.0
Do. Do.
9, 305
36.0
Do. Do.
8, 375
33.0
Do. Do.
4, 855
18.5
Table XX.
10, 700
41.0
Table XXIH.
7, 670
32.0
Table XIX.
9,820
38.0
Table XXI. Via Honolulu.
9, 435
36.5
Table XXII. Great Circle.
10, 410
41.0
Table XXI. Via Honolulu.
10, 025
38.0
Table XXII. Great Circle.
8, 310
33.0
Table XXI. Via Honolulu.
7, 825
30.0
Table XXII, Great Circle.
5, 000
19.0
Table XXI.
•
10, 820
44,0
Table XXIV.
hqte.—For times and distances from Hew York add 2,200 miles 11 days. For times and distances to Hew York add 2,200 miles 11 days,
FEED. COLLINS, Lieutenant U. 8, Navy,
Coin'r Thomas Q. Selfridge, Com^g JDarien Exploring Expedition,
SUPPLEMENT.
The following supplementary table has been prepared in order to give more detailed informa¬
tion concerning the winds and currents to be encountered in traversing the sailing-routes herein¬
before laid down than can be conveniently presented in the tables already given. It shows, for
each season, the percentage of fair winds upon the given course, the percentage of calms, the pre¬
vailing direction of the wind, and the number of observations from which these results have been
derived, together with the prevailing set of the current for every square of five degrees each
traversed by the proposed routes.
As far as the winds are concerned, this table is based upon Maury's Pilot Charts. All winds
within six points upon either side of the given course have been considered as " adverse," and all
others as "fair." The fair winds only have been recorded, since to obtain the percentage of adverse
it is only necessary to subtract the percentage of fair from 100.
The absolute value of the results here given depends, of course, upon the number of observa¬
tions from which they are derived. In many of the squares we have enough observations to give
fair averages; in many others we have not enough. In such cases the results in the table must be
taken only for what they may be worth. For instance : if, in a square with only thirty observa¬
tions reported, the table gives no calms, it is not intended to convey the idea that it is never calm
in that regiou, but, simply, that out of the thirty recorded observations there happened to be no
calms. And if, in the same square, the prevailing direction of the wind should be set down as
southeast, for example, when we knew the square in question to lie in the region of northeast trades,
we should not feel by any means obliged to believe that the wind in that square actually did prevail
from the southward and eastward, for we know that thirty observations are not sufficient to give a
reliable average. Were there two thousand observations instead of thirty, the case would be
different, and we would be obliged to accept the results as given, even though they might be
anomalous. Even with the smallest number given, however, these results, taking one with another,
are valuable, and the navigator or meteorologist will be well repaid for a careful study of this table.
The currents are given about as laid down by Berghaus, the object being simply to indicate,
in a very general way, the set that may be anticipated in each square. The term "square" is used
as a matter of convenience, to indicate the area included between two meridians five degrees apart,
and two parallels separated by the same distance. The first four columns of the table indicate the
particular meridians and parallels in each case.
The results are given in each square for both seasons, although the route may pass through the
square only during one seasom
DARJEN SHIP-CANAL.
255
SUPPLEMENTARY TABLE.
ROUTE FOR LEAVING* CUPICA BAY.
Note.—Courses are given to the nearest point, and per cents to the nearest unit.
October to April.
April to October.
1
!
Boundaries of " squares."
"Winds.
O
fl
Winds.
O
d
Latitude.
Latitude.
Longitude.
Longitude.
Course.
Per cent. fair.
Per cent, of calms.
Number of obser¬
vations.
Prevailing direc¬
tion.
Prevailing directh
current.
i:
Per cent. fair.
Per cent, of calms.
Number of obser¬
vations.
1
1
Prevailing direc¬
tion.
Prevailing directic
current.
5° N.
loo N.
75° W.
80° W,
S. S. W.
66
10
274
N. and W.
S.
62
5
100
S. and W.
N.
0°
5° N.
75° W.
80° W.
"W". S. W.
29
4
584
S. and W.
s.
33
1
1, 387
S. and W.
N.
0°
50 N.
80° W.
85° W.
ay. s. ay.
50
4
2, 621
s.
s.
43
0
5, 358
s.
N.
0°
5° N.
85° W.
90° W.
ay.
90
3
2, 085
S. and E.
Variable.
94
1
2, 533
S. and E.
Variable.
00
5° N.
90° W.
95° AY.
ay.
97
5
3, 896
S. andE.
W.
93
5
3, 087
S. and E.
AY.
0°
5° S.
85° W.
90° W.
W. S. AY.
93
3
1,340
S. and E.
N. and W.
93
1
1, 020
S. and E.
N. and W.
0°
5° S.
90° W.
95° W.
ay. s. ay.
91
0
1,916
S. and E.
W.
96
0
1, 208
S. and E.
•
£
BOUTE TO AUSTBALIA. !
! "
0°
5° N.
95° W.
100° W.
AY. by S.
100
5
1, 507
S. and E.
W.
98
1
1, 056
S. andE.
W.
0°
5° S.
100° W.
105° W.
AY. by S.
100
0
1,269
S. and E.
W.
100
0
1,134
S. and E.
W.
0°
50 S.
105° W.
110° W.
AY. by S.
100
1
1,173
S. and E.
av.
100
0
841
S. and E.
w.
0°
50 S.
110° W.
115° W.
AY. by S.
100
1
1,188
S. and E.
W.
100
1
964
S. and E.
av.
0°
5° S.
115° W.
120° W.
AY. bv S.
100
0
892
S. and E.
W.
100
0
631
S. and E.
W.
50 s.
10° s.
95° W.
100° W.
AY.
99
0
517
S. and E.
av.
100
0
628
S. and E.
av.
5° S.
100 s.
100° w.
105° AY.
AY.
100
0
2, 260
S. and E.
av.
99
0
! 3,173
S. and E.
W.
5° S.
10° s.
105° W.
110° AY.
AY.
100
0
1,321
S. and E.
AY.
100
0
1, 442
S. and E.
W.
5° S.
10° s.
110° W.
115° W.
AY.
100
0
458
S. and E.
AY.
100
0
554
S. and E.
W.
5° S.
10° s.
115° W.
120° W.
AY.
100
0
129
S. and E.
AY.
100
0
162
S. andE.
W-
5° S.
10° s.
120° W.
125° AY.
AY.
100
4
104
S. and E.
W.
96
0
120
S. and E.
W.
50 s.
100 s.
125° W.
130° W.
AY.
100
0
75
S. and E.
W.
100
0
33
S. and E.
W.
50 s.
100 s.
130° W.
135° W.
AY.
100
0
108
S. and E.
W.
100
0
44
S. and E.
W.
50 s.
100 s.
135° W.
140° W.
AY.
99
2
449
S. and E.
W.
100
0
119
S. and E.
W.
5° S. .
10° s.
140° AY.
145° W.
AY.
100
6
251
S. andE.
W.
100
0
27
E.
AY.
5° S.
10° s.
145° W.
150° W.
AY. S. AY.
100
4
169
E.
AY.
100
0
64
E.
W.
10° s.
15° s.
150° W.
155° W.
AY. S. AY.
95
6
673
E.
Variable.
96
9
562
E.
Variable.
10° s.
15° s.
155° W.
160° W.
AY. S. AY.
91
15
282
E.
Variable.
99
4
716
E.
Variable.
15° s.
20° S.
160° W.
165° AY.
AY. S. AY.
96
7
299
E.
W.
94
2
389
E.
W.
J 5° S.
20° S.
165° W.
170° W.
AY. S. AY.
89
5
266
E.
AY.
97
5
287
E.
av.
20° S.
25° S.
170° W.
175° W.
AY. S. AY.
88
3
1, 300
S. and E.
W.
88
1
2,175
S. and E.
W.
20° S.
25° S.
175° W.
180°
AY. S. AY.
93
5
416
E.
W.
89
1
473
E.
W.
20° S.
25° S.
180°
175° E.
AY. S. AY.
93
4
67
E.
Variable.
L83
2
165
E.
Variable.
250 s.
30° S.
175° E.
170° E.
AY. S. AY.
82
5
72
S. and E.
Variable.
68
1
460
Variable.
Variable.
25° S.
30° S.
170° E.
165° E.
AY. S. AY.
79
6
no
Variable.
S. and W.
75
0
152
Variable.
S. and AY.
30° S.
35° S.
165° E.
160° E.
AY. S. AY.
87
5
255
E.
S. and W.
75
8
190
Variable.
S. and W.
30° S.
350 s.
160° E.
155° E.
AY. S. AY.
86
4
484
E.
S. and W.
81
3
200
Variable.
S. and W.
30° S.
350 s.
155° E.
150° E.
AY. S. AY.
93
2
206
E.
S. and W.
85
6
277
Variable.
S. and W.
SOUTHERN" ROUTE TO CHINA AND MANILA.
!
0°
5° S.
145° W.
150° W.
AY.
100
0
376
E.
W.
100
0
76
E.
AY. !
0°
5° s.
150° W.
155° W.
AY.
97
1
1,187
E.
W.
100
1
678
E.
w. :
0°
5° s.
155° W.
160° W.
AY.
98
2
1, 011
E.
W.
99
1
816
E.
w.
0°
50 s.
160° W.
165° W.
AY.
98
4
1, 351
E.
W.
99
1
1,103
E.
w.
0°
5° S.
165° W.
170° W.
AY.
99
1
516
E.
W.
98
2
869
E.
w.
0°
5° S.
170° W.
175° AY.
AY.
93
4
1,141
E.
W.
100
5
745
E.
AY.
0°
5° S.
175° W.
180°
W.N. AY.
83
5
760
N.
W.
98
3
667
E.
W.
0°
5c s.
180°
175° E.
AY. N; AY.
69
7
889
N.
W.
86
5
467
E.
AY,
0°
50 s.
175° E.
170° E.
AY. N. AY.
92
3
529
N.and E.
N. and W.
96
10
534
E.
N. and W.
256
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
SUPPLEMENTABY TABLE—Continued.
SOUTHERN ROUTE TO CHINA AND MANILA—Continued.
October to April.
April to October.
Boundaries of " squa]
,,
res.
«H
O
S3
cH
o
d
"Winds.
"Winds.
Latitude.
Latitude.
©
S3
fcB
d
/•—s
©
S3
-4—>
• rH
tf)
o
•
©
02
U
S3
Per cent. fair.
}r cent, of calms.
umber of obser¬
vations.
|
?e vailing direc¬
tion.
availing dircctic
current.
Per cent. fair.
3r cent, of caJms.
umber of obser¬
vations.
availing direc¬
tion.
availing directk
current.
W
i-5
W
O
P8
ft
Pn
PH
P4
ft
PH
r-\
PH
0°
5° S.
170° E.
165° E.
TV. N. TV.
86
7
324
N. and E.
Variable.
95
5
181
E.
Variable.
0°
5° N.
165° E.
160° E.
TV. N. TV.
97
9
138
N. and E.
Variable.
96
4
105
E.
Variable.
0°
5° N.
160° E.
155° E.
TV. N. TV.
100
0
58
E.
E.
100
0
3
N. and E.
E.
0°
5° N.
155° E.
150° E.
TV. N. TV.
78
0
36
E.
E.
100
0
12
N. and E.
E.
5° N.
5° 1ST.
10° N.
10° N.
150° E.
145° E.
145° E.
TV. N. TV.
41
3
34
N. and TV.
Variable.
0
Variable.
Variable.
140° E.
TV. N. TV.
92
8
14
N. and E.
Variable.
100
0
7
S. and E.
5° N.
10° N.
140° E.
135° E.
TV. N.TV.
71
0
128
Variable.
Variable.
78
0
18
Variable.
Variable.
5° N.
10° N.
135° E.
130° E.
TV. N. TV.
93
0
282
N. and E.
Variable.
96
4
50
S. and TV.
Variable.
10° N.
15° N.
130° E.
125° E.
TV. N. TV.
98
1
242
N. and E.
Variable.
85
5
68
S.
Variable.
15° N.
20° N.
120° E.
115° E.
N. N. TV.
68
1
975
N. and E.
S. and TV.
84
1
829
S. and TV.
N. and E.
20° N.
25° N.
120° E.
115° E.
N. N. TV.
72
0
538
N. and E.
S. and TV.
.87
0
440
S. and TV.
N. and E.
1
NORTHERN ROUTE TO CHINA, MANILA, AND JAPAN.
0°
5° N.
95° TV.
100° tv.
TV. N. TV.
98
5
1, 507
S. and E.
TV.
98
1
1,056
S. and E.
TV.
0°
5° N.
100° W.
105° TV.
TV. N. TV.
99
2
1,080
S. and E.
TV.
100
1
537
S. and E.
TV.
5° N.
10° N.
105° TV.
110° TV.
TV. N. TV.
97
5
369
E.
E.
91
1
300
s. •
E.
5° N.
10° N.
110° TV.
115° W.
TV. N. TV.
98
6
455
E.
E.
87
9
358
S. and E.
E.
0°
5° S.
90° W.
95° "W.
TV.
94
0
1, 674
S. and E.
TV.
96
0
1,208
S. and E.
TV.
0°
5° S.
95° TV.
100° TV.
TV.
99
0
565
S. and E.
TV.
99
1
677
S. and E.
TV.
0°
5° S.
100° TV.
105° TV.
TV.
93
0
1, 005
S. and E.
TV.
100
0
1,134
S. and E.
TV.
0°
5° S.
105° TV.
110° TV.
N. TV.
99
1
1,143
S. and E.
TV.
99
1
1,173
S. and E.
TV.
0°
5° N.
105° TV.
110° TV.
N.TV.
100
3
792
S. and E.
TV.
99
2
792
S. and E.
TV.
0°
5° N.
110° TV.
115° TV.
N. W.
100
3
777
S. and E.
TV.
98
3
877
S. and E.
TV.
5° N.
10° N.
115° TV.
120° TV.
N. TV.
97
2
384
S. and E.
E.
95
1
318
S. and E.
E.
10° N.
15° N.
120° TV.
125° TV.
TV. N. TV".
90
2
167
N. and E.
V ariable.
81
2
216
N. and E.
Variable.
10° N.
15° N.
125° TV.
130° TV.
TV. N.TV.
100
1
207
N. and E.
S. and W.
92
5
120
N. and E.
S. and TV.
10° N.
15° N.
130° TV.
135° TV.
TV. N. TV.
99
0
294
N. and E.
S. and TV.
95
0
182
N. and E.
S. and W.
' 10° N.
15° N.
135° TV.
140° TV.
TV. N. TV.
95
1
286
N. and E.
TV.
99
0
173
N. and E.
TV.
10° N.
15° N.
140° TV.
145° TV.
TV.
98
0
429
N. and E.
TV.
100
0
181
N. and E.
TV.
10° N.
15° N.
145° TV.
150° TV.
TV.
98
0
311
N. and E.
TV.
97
4
159
N. and E.
TV.
10° N.
15° N.
150° TV.
155° TV.
TV.
95
0
! 624
N. and E.
TV.
98
1
299
N. and E.
TV.
10° N.
15° N.
155° TV.
360° TV.
TV.
98
1
999
N. and E.
TV.
99
1
434
N. and E.
TV.
10° N.
15° N.
160° TV.
165° TV.
TV.
100
0
89
N. and E.
TV.
100
0
73
N. and E.
TV.
10° N.
15° N.
165° TV.
170° TV.
TY.
100
0
39
N. and E.
TV.
100
0
113
N. and E.
TV.
10° N.
15° N.
170° TV.
175° TV.
TV.
100
5
65
N. and E.
TV.
100
0
102
N. and E.
TV.
10° N.
15° N.
175° W.
180°
TV.
100
0
55
N. and E.
TV.
100
0
180
N. and E.
TV.
10° N.
15° N.
180°
175° E.
TV.
100
0
39
N. and E.
TV.
100
0
84
N. and E.
TV.
10° N.
15° N.
175° E.
170° E.
TV.
100
0
43
N. and E.
TV.
100
0
45
N. and E.
TV.
10° N.
15° N.
170° E.
165° E.
TV.
100
0
30
N. and E.
TV.
100
0
32
N. and E.
TV.
10° N.
15° N.
165° E.
160° E.
TV.
100
0
27
N. and E.
TV.
100
0
44
N. and E.
TV.
10° N.
15° N.
160° E.
155° E.
TV. by N.
100
0
77
N. and E.
TV.
100
2
77
N. and E.
TV.
10° N.
15° N.
155° E.
150° E.
TV. by N.
100
2
117
N. and E.
TV.
100
0
104
N. and E.
TV.
15° N.
20° N.
150° E.
145° E.
TV. by N.
100
0
180
N. and E.
TV.
90
3
125
N. and E.
and S. and
TV.
TV.
15° N.
20° N.
145° E.
140° E.
TV. by N.
99
1
261
N. and E.
TV.
83
7
149
N. and E.
and S. and
TV.
TV.
15° N.
20° N.
140° E.
135° E.
TV. by N.
93
1
186
N. and E.
TV.
92
6
52
N. and E.
TV.
I 15° N.
20° N.
135° E.
130° E.
TV. by N.
90
0
148
N. and E.
TV.
92
5
81
S.
TV.
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
257
SUPPLEMENTARY TABLE—Continued.
NORTHERN ROUTE TO CHINA, MANILA, AND JAPAN—Continued.
October to April.
April to October.
Boundaries of "squares."
©H
©
©
Winds.
o
g
AVinds.
-
. .
a
! Number of obser¬
vations.
i
©
©
•4-8
5?
CO
•a
i
u
©
i
©
©
• rH
© .
© +3
Latitude.
Latitude.
Longitude.
Longitude.
Course.
1
Per cent. fair.
OS
©
o
a
©
©
u
©
Ps
Prevailing dii
tion.
Prevailing dii
curren
Per cent. fair.
c3
©
©H
©
©
©
©
f©
©
PA
O to
«w ©
© o
w .i-H
u
© ©
r© >
B
©
ft
Prevailing dii
tion.
Prevailing dii
curren
20° N.
25° N.
130° E.
125° E.
W. by N.
99
4
169
N. and E.
AY. N. W.
90
0
63
V ariable.
AY N. AY.
20° N.
25° N.
125° E.
120° E.
W. by N.
94
1
329
N. and E.
N. and W.
75
0
135
S. and AY.
N. and AY
20° N.
25° N.
150° E.
145° E.
W. N. W.
80
0
15
N. and E.
AY.
97
2
122
S. and E.
AY.
20° 27.
25° N.
145° E.
140° E.
W. N. W.
91
5
108
N. and E.
W.
94
2
158
S. and E.
AY
25° 27.
30° N.
140° E.
135° E.
W. N. W.
66
0
57
Variable.
Variable.
82
3
199
S.
Available.
25° 27.
30° N.
135° E.
130° E.
W. N. W.
53
2
36
N. and W.
E. N. E.
88
3
405
Variable.
E. N. E.
25° 27.
30° N.
130° E.
125° E.
W. N. W.
85
4
100
N.
N. E.
100
0
51
Variable.
N. E.
25° 27.
30° N.
150° E.
145° E.
N. W.
51
4
115
N. and W.
Variable.
78
1
346
S. and AY.
Ar ariable.
30° 27.
35° N.
145° E.
140° E.
N. W.
97
6
63
Variable.
N. and E.
92
4
609
S.
N. and E.
BOUTE TO BAT A VIA.
*
10° 27.
15° N.
120° E.
115° E.
S. W.
90
3
3
662
N. and E.
S. and W.
N. and E.
5° 27.
10° N.
115° E.
110° E.
S. W.
73
396
N. and E.
S. and W.
N. and E.
0
5° N.
110° E.
105° E.
s. s. w.
81
4
1,461
N. and E.
S. and AY.
N. and E.
5° S.
10° S.
165° W.
170° W.
w. s. w.
AY.
97
2
261
215
78
E.
AY.
5° S.
10° s.
170° W.
175° W.
w. s. w.
AY.
S. and W.
96
2
E.
AY.
S. and AY.
Variable.
5° S.
10° s.
175° W.
180°
w. s. w.
95
5
E.
5° S.
10° g.
180°
175° E.
W. S. AY.
85
16
130
E.
Variable.
96
0
128
E.
10° s.
15° S.
175° E.
170° E.
AY. S. AY.
90
0
230
S. and E.
Variable.
100
0
271
E.
Variable.
10° s.
15° S.
170° E.
165° E.
W. S. AY.
100
2
54
S. and E.
Variable.
100
0
6
E.
Y ariable.
10° s.
15° S.
165° E.
160° E.
AY. S. AY.
91
3
40
S. and E.
N. and AY.
100
7
68
S. and E.
N. and W.
10° s.
15° S.
160° E.
155° E.
W. N. AY.
100
5
40
E.
N. and AY.
100
0
12
S.
N. and AY.
10° s.
15° S.
155° E.
150° E.
AY. N. AY.
91
0
22
E.
N. and AY.
100
0
12
E.
N. and W.
5° S.
10° S.
130° E.
125° E.
AY. N. AY.
50
9
499
N. and AY.
Variable.
88
14
84
S. and E.
Variable.
5° S.
10° S.
125° E.
120° E.
AY. N. AY.
56
4
641
AY.
Y ariable.
93
10
352
S. and E.
Variable.
5° S.
10° s.
120° E.
115° E.
W. N. AY.
52
6
443
AY.
E.
95
o
579
S. and E.
AV.
. 5° S.
10° s.
115° E.
110° E.
AY. N. AY.
62
5
440
AY-
E.
94
1
452
S. and E.
W.
5° S.
10° s.
110° E.
105° E.
AY. S. AY
58
7
1, 214
AY.
E.
87
5
1,666
S. and E.
AY.
I
1
l
BOUTE TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
15° N.
20° N.
135° W.
140° W.
AY. N. AY.
98
0
184
N. and E.
AY.
100
0
151
N. and E.
AV !
15° N.
20° N.
140° W.
145° W.
AY. N. W.
97
0
453
N. and E.
AY.
100
0
338
N. andE.
AY |
15° N.
20° N.
145° W.
150° W.
W. N. AY.
96
0
611
N. and E.
AY.
100"
2
GO
N. and E.
AY. 1
15° N.
20° N.
150° W.
155° W.
W. N. W.
95
o
**
879
N. and E.
AY. N. AY.
92
4
543
N. and E.
AY. N. AY. !
20° N.
25° N.
155° W.
160° W.
W. N. W.
91
3
3, 596
N. and E.
AY. N. AY.
95
2
2, 507
N. and E.
AY. N. AY.
• j
BOUTE TO VALPxVBAISO AND CALLAO.
5° S.
10° S.
95° W.
100° W.
S. S. W.
89
0
275
S. and E.
AY.
88
0
478
S. and E.
W.
10° s.
15° S.
95° W.
100° W.
S. S. W.
95
0
61
S. and E.
AY.
80
0
57
S. and E.
AY
15° S.
20° S.
100° W.
105° W.
S.
65
0
68
S. and E.
AY
62
0
13
S. and E.
W.
20° S.
25° S.
100° W.
105° W.
s.
72
6
64
S. and E.
Variable.
45
15
60
S. and E.
Variable.
25° S.
30° S.
100° W.
105° W.
S. S. E.
34
2
65
S. and E.
Variable.
54
0'
98
S. and E.
Available. :
30° S.
35° S.
95° W.
100° W.
E. S. E.
64
7
620
Variable.
E. N. E.
70
3
365
Variable.
E. N. E.
30° S.
35° S,
90° W.
95° W.
E. by S.
61
6
775
Variable.
E. N. E.
79
3
304
Variable.
E. N. E. i
30° S.
35° S.
85° W.
90° W.
E. by S.
66
8
1, 680
Variable.
E.N.E.
68
3
370
A7ariable.
E. N. E.
30° S.
35° S.
80° W.
85° W.
E. by S.
92
4
3, 655
V ariable.
Y ariable.
92
4
1, 721
Variable.
Variable.
30° S.
35° S.
75° W.
80° W.
East.
97
8
2,191
AY.
N.
95
4
1,160
AY.
N.
30° S.
35° S.
70° W.
75° W.
East.
97
6
1,087
S. and AY*
N.
93
3
851
S. and AY*
N.
* Many winds from the northward from April to September.
H Mis. 113 33
258
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
SUPPLEMENTARY TABLE—Continued.
ROUTE TO VALPARAISO AND CALLAO—Continued.
October to April.
April to October.
1
Boundaries of " scjuai
,,
.■es.
1
r, ,
Winds.
availing direction oJ
current.
Winds.
vr"4
0
fi
i
I
Latitude.
i
1
Latitude.
1
!
à
n
fi
-t-a
•r-<
fi
f
6
rs
fi
-M
u
fi
fi
<c
m
u
fi
f
ù
• r4
CH
-ti
fi
0?
O
U
)r cent, of calms.
amber of obser¬
vations.
availing direc¬
tion.
Per cent. fair.
ir cent, of calms.
amber of obser¬
vations.
»
0
•i-H
fcc fi
fi 0
S '43
• rH
fi
>
9
availing directb
current.
w
w
W
O
PH
w
Pu
ft
*
ri
w
PU
ft
rH
PU
ri
PU
30° S.
35° S.
85° W.
90° TU.
IL E.
82
5
2,174
Variable.
E. IL. E.
79
4
952
Variable.
E. N. E.
250 g.
30° S
85° W.
90° TU.
IL IL. E.
88
6
640
S. and E.
Variable.
74
5
690
S. and E.
Variable.
20° S.
25° s.
80° W.
85° TU.
IL. IL. E.
94
3
403
S. and E.
IL. and W.
87
1
462
S. and E.
IL. and W.
15° S.
20° S.
80° W.
85° TU.
IL. IL. E.
99
1
580
S. and E.
IL. and W.
97
1
477
S. and E.
IL. and W,
10° s.
15° S.
75° W.
80° TU.
IL. N. E.
100
2
1,432
S. and E.
IL. and TV.
98
2
849
S. and E.
N. and W.
BOUTE TO SAIL FBAILCISCO.
10° IL.
15° IL
120° W.
125° TU.
IL. TU.
85
2
167
IL. and E.
.Variable.
75
5
216
•IL. and E.
Variable.
15° 1ST.
20° IL
125° W.
130° TU.
IL. TU.
86
0
182
IL. and E.
S. and W.
79
0
123
IL. and E.
S. and W.
20° IL.
25° IL
130° W.
135° TU.
IL. IL. TU.
84
0
175
IL. and E.
S.
51
0
137
IL. and E.
S.
25° IL.
30° IL.
130° W.
135° TU.
IL. N. TU.
55
4
229
IL. and E.
S.
48
1
270
IL. and E.
s.
30° 1L.
350 IL
130° W.
135° TU.
IL. IL. E.
61
3
754
IL. and E.
s.
49
3
718
IL. and E.
s.
35° N.
40° IL
130° W.
>
135° TU.
E. IL. E.
71
2
229
Variable.
S. and E.
64
1
641
Variable.
S. and E.
35° N.
40o IL
125° W.
130° TU.
E. N. E.
79
• 2
381
N. and W.
S. and E.
68
3
850
IL.
S. and E.
35° IL.
40° IL
120° W.
125° TU.
E. IL. E.
94
7
766
IL. and W.
S. and E.
91
8
1,193
IL. and W.
S. and E.
RETURN ROUTES.
BOUTE FBOM AUSTBALIA.
*
30° S.
35° S.
150° E.
155° E.
E. S. E.
62
4
353
E.
IL.
71
3
134
S. and E.
S.
35° S.
40° S.
155° E.
160° E.
E. S. E.
72
4
696
Variable.
Variable.
73
1
59
Variable.
V ariable.
35° S.
40° S.
160° E.
165° E.
E. S. E.
82
4
405
S.
Variable.
76
2
98
Variable.
Variable.
35° S.
40° S.
165° E.
170° E.
E. S. E.
77
3
548
Variable.
Variable.
73
0
79
Variable.
Variable.
| 350 S.
40° S.
170° E.
175° E.
E. S. E.
76
5
502
Variable.
IL. and E.
77
3
106
Variable.
IL. and E.
! 400 s.
45° S.
175° E.
180°
E.
79
3
835
Variable.
S. and TU.
76
4
479
Variable.
S. and W.
I 40° S.
450 S.
180°
175° TU.
E.
78
5
831
Variable.
S. and E.
79
7
287
Variable.
S. and E.
40° S.
450 s.
175° W.
170° TU.
E.
81
3
543
IL. and TV
Variable.
77
0
73
Variable.
Variable.
1 40° S.
45° s.
170° W.
165° TU.
E.
83
2
220
'TV
Variable.
90
4
71
W.
Variable.
40° S.
45° s.
165° W.
160° TU.
E.
86
3
1,172
IL. and W.
Variable.
86
2
270
S. and TV.
Variable.
40° S.
450 s.
160° W.
155° TU.
E.
89
0
4*
1, 431
IL. and W.
IL. and E.
86
1
306
S. and W.
IL. and E.
40° S.
450 s.
155° W.
150° TU.
E.
90
3
863
IL. and TU.
IL. and E.
87
2
174
S. and W.
IL. and E.
40° S.
450 s.
150° W.
145° TU.
E.
82
2
220
IL. and W-
IL. and E.
96
0
26
TV.
IL. and E.
40° S.
450 s.
145° W.
140° TU.
E.
78
5
220
38".
IL. and E.
77
6
39
S. and TV.
IL. and E.
40° S.
450 s.
140° W.
135° TU.
E.
71
4
165
Variable.
IL. and E.
65
3
34
Variable.
IL. and E.
40° S.
45° s.
135° W.
130° TU.
E.
83
5
159
IL. and TV.
IL. and E.
89
0
45
TV.
IL. and E.
40° S.
450 s.
130° W.
125° TU.
E.
79
3
151
Variable.
IL. and E.
77
3
60
S. and W.
IL. and E.
40° S.
450 s.
125° W.
120° TU.
E.
81
0
101
IL. and TV.
IL. and E.
91
0
43
S. and W.
IL. and E.
40° S.
45° S.
120° W.
115° TU.
E. IL. E.
91
3
248
IL. and TU.
IL. and E.
84
0
67
S. and W.
IL. and E.
40° S.
450 S.
115° W.
110° TU.
E. IL. E.
93
0
195
W.
IL. and E.
75
0
64
Variable.
IL. and E.
35° S.
40° S.
110° W.
105° TU.
E. IL. E.
81
3
208
TU.
IL. and E.
64
1
109
Variable.
IL. and E.
35° S.
40° S.
105° W.
100° TU.
E. IL. E.
83
5
236
TU.
IL. and E.
79
7
102
Variable.
IL. and E.
30° S.
35° S.
100° TU.
95° TU.
IL. IL. E.
71
6
960
Variable.
IL. and E.
71
2
598
Variable.
IL. and E.
25° S.
30° S.
90° W.
95° TU.
IL. IL. E.
84
8
534
*S. and E.
Variable.
72
3
560
*S. and E.
Variable.
20° S.
250 s.
90° TU.
95° TU.
IL. IL. E.
91
3
364
*S. and E.
Variable.
73
4
464
*S. and E.
Variable.
15° S.
20O S.
85° UU.
90° TU.
IL IL. E.
98
2
310
S. and E.
W. IL. W.
1 89
3
S. and E.
W. IL. W.
100 s.
150 s.
85° TU.
90° TU.
IL. N. E.
100
0
213
S. and E.
Variable.
100
3
166
S. and E.
Variable.
50 s.
100 s.
80° TU.
85° TU.
IL. IL. E.
99
1
•985
S. and E.
IL. and W.
99
0
876
S. and E.
IL. and W.
0°
\
50 s.
80° TU.
85° TU.
IL.
98
1
2, 074
S.and E.
IL.
99
2
1, 613
S. and E.
IL.
* Many northerly winds about June.
DAEIEN SHIP-CAN AL.
259
SUPPLEMENTARY TABLE—Continued.
ROUTE FROM CHINA, MANILA, AND JAPAN.
*
*
Boundaries of "squares."
o5
m
P
o
O
October to April.
April to October.
AYinds.
Prevailing direction of
current.
i
AYinds.
Prevailing direction of
current.
Latitude.
Latitude.
J
Longitude.
1
j
Longitude.
Per cent. fair.
Per cent, of calms.
' Number of obser¬
vations.
Prevailing direc¬
tion.
Per cent. fair.
Per cent, of calms.
Number of obser¬
vations.
Prevailing direc¬
tion.
15° N.
20° N.
115° E.
120° E.
N. N. E.
«
29
1
975
N. and E.
S. and AY.
75
1
829
S. and AY.
N. and E.
20° N.
25° N.
120° E.
125° E.
N. N. E.
28
1
329
N. and E.
N.
65
0
135
S. and AY.
N.
25° N.
30° N.
125° E.
130° E.
N. E.
21
4
100
N.
N. and E.
39
0
51
Yariable.
N. and E.
25° N.
30° N.
130° E.
135° E.
N. E.
83
2
36
N. and AY.
N. and E.
54
3
405
Yariable.
N. and E.
30° N.
35° N.
135° E.
140° E.
N.E.
66
0
17
N. and E.
6
N. and E.
35° N.
40° N.
140° E.
145° E.
E. N. E.
80
0
41
Yariable.
N. and E.
70
4
82
Yariable.
N. and E.
35° N.
40° N.
145° E.
150° E.
E. N. E.
81
15
101
N. and AY.
N. and E.
71
1
275
Yariable.
N. and E.
35° N.
40° N.
150° E.
155° E.
E. N. E.
94
2
54
N. and AY.
N. and E.
85
1
150
AY.
N. and E.
40° N.
45° N.
155° E.
160° E.
E. N. E.
88
2
175
AY.
N. and E.
59
2
716
Yariable.
N. and E.
40° N.
45° N.
160° E.
165° E.
E. N. E.
95
5
168
AY.
N. and E.
72
5
364
AY.
N. and E.
40° N.
45° N.
165° E.
170° E.
E. N. E.
79
3
126
AY.
N. and E.
88
2
918
AY.
N. and E.
40° N.
45° N.
170° E.
175° E.
E.
87
5
171
S. and AY.
E.
80
2
506
AY.
E.
40° N.
45° N.
175° E.
180°
E.
92
2
54
Yariable.
E.
84
1
722
AY.
E.
40° N.
45° N.
180°
175° AY.
E.
70
2
50
AY.
E.
80
2
597
S. and AY.
E.
40° N.
45° N.
175° AY.
170° AY.
E.
86
2
52
AY.
E.
88
4
482
S. and AY.
E.
40° N.
45° N.
170° AY.
165° AY.
E. S. E.
80
0
98
AY.
E.
82
2
462
S. and AY.
E.
40° N.
45° N.
165° AY.
160° AY.
E. S. E.
89
0
101
AY.
E.
85
1
572
S. and AY.
E.
40° N.
45° N.
160° AY.
155° AY.
E. S. E.
61
2
910
Yariable.
S. and E.
83
4
793
Yariable.
S. and E.
40° N.
45° N.
155° AY.
150° AY.
E. S. E.
70
4
95
Yariable.
S. and E.
80
2
847
S. and AY.
S. and E.
35° N.
40° N.
150° AY.
145° AY.
E. S. E.
77
0
97
Yariable.
S. and E.
74
2
1, 007
S. and AY.
S. and E.
35° N.
40° N.
145° AY.
140° AY.
E. S. E.
46
2
117
Yariable.
S. and E.
75
2
739
N. and E.
S. and E.
35° N.
40° N.
140° AY.
135° AY.
E. S. E.
60
3
147
Yariable.
S.
64
4
862
N. and E.
S.
30° N.
35° N.
135° AY.
130° AY.
E. S. E.
65
3
754
N. and E.
S.
69
3
718
N. and E.
S.
30° N.
35° N.
130° AY.
125° AY.
S. E. by E.
87
4
| 745
N.
"s.
95
4
826
N.
£v
25° N.
30° N.
125° AY.
120° AY.
S. E. by E.
88
6
499
N.
Yariable.
98
1
608
N.
Yariable.
20° N.
25° N.
120° W.
115° AY.
S. E. by E.
100
1
268
N. and E.
Yariable.
91
9
150
N.
Yariable.
20° N.
25° N.
115° AY.
110° ay
S. E. by E.
93
4
1,051
N. and E.
S. and E.
86
7
218
N. and AY.
S. and E.
15° N.
20° N.
110° AY.
105° AY.
E. S. E.
82
8
677
N. and AY.
S. and E.
80
5
133
N. and AY.
N. and AY.
15° N.
20° N.
105° AY.
100° AY.
E. S. E.
9t
12
811
N. and AY.
S. and E.
73
3
68
* Yariable.
N. and AY.
10° N.
15° N.
100° AY.
95° AY.
E. S. E.
77
9
456
N.
S. and E.
. 84
0
32
* Yariable.
N. and AY.
10° N.
15° N.
95° ay
90° AY.
E. S. E.
87
3
355
N.and E.
S. and E.
60
13
95
S. and E.
N. and AY.
5° N.
10° N.
90° AY.
85° AY.
E. S. E.
81
5
475
N.
S. and E.
68
6
178
S.
N. and AY.
5° N.
10° N.
85° AY.
80° AY.
E. S. E.
81
9
249
AY.
Yariable.
80
1
163
S. and AY.
j Yariable.
1,
* Many winds from southward and westward.
BOTJTE FROM SANDWICH ISLANDS.
20° N.
25° N.
155° AY.
160° AY.
N. by AY.
88
3
3, 596
N. and E.
N. and AY.
88
2
2,507
N. and E.
N. and AY.
25° N.
30° N.
155° AY.
160° AY.
N. by AY.
67
3
1, 551
N. and E.
N. and AY.
57
3
1, 338
N. and E.
N. and AY.
30° N.
35° N.
155° AY.
160° AY.
E. N. E.
74
3
1,161
Yariable.
N. and AY.
72
6
1, 315
Yariable.
N. and AY.
30° N.
35° N.
155° AY.
150° AY,
E.
69
3
767
Yariable.
N. and AY.
69
4
889
Yariable.
N. and AY.
30° N.
35° N.
150° AY.
145° AY.
E. by S.
66
1
573
Yariable.
Yariable.
55
4
727
Yariable.
Yariable.
30° N.
35° N.
145° AY.
140° AY.
E. by S.
64
3
486
Yariable.
Yariable.
48
3
609
N. and E.
Yariable.
30° N.
35° N.
140° AY.
135° AY.
S. E. by E.
58
1
528
E.
S.
62
6
928
N. and E,
S.
25° N.
30° N.
135° AY.
130° AY.
S. E. by E.
89
4
237
N. and E.
S. and AY.
85
1
270
N. and E.
S. and AY.
25° N.
30° N.
130° AY.
125° AY.
S. E. by E.
66
3
391
N. and E.
S. and AY.
76
7
182
N. and E.
S. and AY.
20° N.
25° N.
125° AY.
120° AY.
S. E. by E.
88
2
164
N. and E.
Yariable.
93
0
156
N. and E.
Yariable.
15° N..
20° N.
120° AY.
115° AY.
S. E. by E.
86
2
153
N. and E.
Yariable.
84
6
219
N. and E.
Yariable.
15° N.
20° N.
115° AY.
110° AY.
S. E. by E.
92
1
286
N.
S. and AY.
84
8
175
Yariable.
S. and AY.
10° N.
15° N.
110° AY.
105° AY.
S. E. by E.
75
3
187
N. and E.
Yariable.
91
11
163
Yariable.
Y ariable.
5° N.
10° N.
105° AY.
100° AY.
E. S. E.
37
4
566
E.
E.
55
4
255
S.
E.
5° N.
10° N.
100° AY.
95° AY.
E. S. E.
63
9
443
S. and E.
E.
65
5
212
s.
E. j
5° N.
10° N.
95° AY.
90° AY.
E. S. E.
76
I
273
- S.
E.
77
2
81
s.
E.
0°
5° N.
90° AY.
85° AY.
E. S. E.
55
3
2,031
S. and E.
Yariable.
55
1
1, 088
S. and E.
Y ariable.
y
y
y
y
o
o
y
y
M
iz!
m
O
rO
&
S
Su
td
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Ct>
00
£
c-i
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o
o
Ot Cl
O O
ÏO
o
o
feî % izî 3
Mi îO JO
Cl O O Cl
o o o o
00 0C< GO 00
ci et o ©
o o o o
A A A3
S! S|
y y
* *
to o to o
to o o o
Ci
to jo es >u
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y y y
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p p p
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o o to to
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O* lo >— es
O O W I-
w m w m
a . p p P
à a a a
a a a a
y y y y
JO
Cl
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CO
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!zj bj *{ Lzj »z{
00
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CD 00 -J »5 -J>
O O Cl Cl Cl
o o o o o
A A 3
y
to
44
Ci
Cl
00
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7S
oo
w
Cl
44
44
p
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72
P
a
ce
p
%
A
zp.
p
a
£ £ £
p P P
a a a
Çlj Pj Pj
3 3 3
w
o
d
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<1
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h3
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tel
y
y
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tzj ïzj
C0 44
Cl o
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!zj !zj
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72
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p p
a a
a- ce
y y
to 00
/ 44 CO
y *
y
p
s.
A
m zji
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Ce Pj
y y
Latitude.
Latitude.
Longitude.
Longitude.
y
o
p
i-i
a
m
o
Ms
ce
P3
M
p
"S
CD
te
Course.
Per cent. fair.
44 -J
Per cent, of calms.
766
745
dumber of obser¬
vations.
Prevailing direc¬
tion.
y
t—•
a
Pj
te
Prevailing direction of
current.
C
o
M-
©
y
©
i-s
r+-
O
y
Per cent. fair.
44 oo
Per cent, of calms.
1,193
826
Number of obser¬
vations.
Prevailing direc¬
tion.
a
ce
co
Prevailing direction of
current.
y
M
c-^
O
O
©
c-t-
o
y
©
©
y
o
d
y
y
y
y
o
K
72
£>
y
y
o
y
(72
O
P
'*
m
d
y
hj
ty
«
S
ty
H
i>
W
Kj
H
î>
W
y
H
o
o
s
<"D
to
Ci
o
0
î>
te
*—1
tel
m
te
te
Q
te
REPORT
UPON
THE SURVEY OF THE DARIEN LINE FROM CALEDONIA BAY TO THE JUNCTION OF THE
SUCUBDI AND CHUCUNAQUE,
BY
J. A.. STJJ.LIWYIST, .ASSISTANT COAST SURVEY.
The results of these surveys and reconnaissances are stated as follows :
To the southward of the continuous line of surveys from the Washington River, the western
limitof the survey, to the Sububdi River, and thence to the valley of the Caledonia River, the eastern
limit of the district surveyed, a careful exploration of the bead-waters of the rivers flowing from the
mountains into Caledonia Bay proves that no depression exists in the mountain range in the
vicinity of Caledonia Bay, other than that between the northeastern tributary of the Aglasene-
qua River and the southwestern tributary of the Caledonia River called " Rainy Hollow Creek ; "
and that this depression, which extends nearly to the Sucubdi Yalley, gives the lowest possible
summit to be found between Caledonia Bay and the valleys of the streams flowing toward the
Pacific.
Between the Anglasenequa River below its first forks, and the Caledonia River below the
mouth of its tributary, "Rainy Hollow Creek," there is a short range of high hills, which is par¬
allel to the sea-shore and to the general mountain range, and the summit of which is about half¬
way between the shore and the summit of the northern range of the Cordilleras. A straight line
from the mouths of the Aglasenequa and Caledonia Rivers to the Sucubdi Yalley, through the
depression in the mountain range, passes over this range of hills, which, having the appearance
from the summits of the mountain range of having been thrown off, as it were, from the range
between the peaks " 1003 " and " 1259" toward the sea, by some great convulsion of nature, presents
a barrier between the depression and the shores of the bay.
The southerly spurs of this range of hills extend into the depression toward the Sucubdi
Yalley, and form a dividing ridge in it between the sources of the northeastern fork of the Agla¬
senequa and Rainy Hollow Creek. At the head of this depression a small tributary to the Sucubdi
also has its source. The depression is separated from the Sucubdi Yalley by a range of hills, the
summit of which is 640 feet above the sea, which forms the northern boundary of the Sucubdi
Yalley where it is nearest the depression, and connects with the mountain range on each side of
the depression with a gradually increasing elevation.
From the summit, " 1259," the waters of the Atlantic in the vicinity of Point Escoces are
plainly visible, between the mountain range to the eastward of the depression and the eastern end
of the range of hills between the two rivers, looking over the Caledonia Yalley.
The line of the survey passing over the peak " 1259 " to. the Sucubdi River proves that there
is no " pass" from this depression in a southwesterly direction to the valley of any river flowing
toward the Pacific parallel to the Sucubdi.
The elevation of the Sucubdi River, where nearest the depression, is 563 feet above the sea, as
determined by spirit level.
262
DARIEN SHIP-CANAL.
If subsequent explorations had rendered it desirable to spend the time necessary for a minute
survey of this depression, there is no doubt but that the valley of the. Sucubdi could have been
reached from Rainy Hollow Creek or the northeastern fork of the Aglasenequa without crossing
over a greater elevation than that of the ridge, (elevation 640 feet,) which is between the depres¬
sion and the Sucubdi Yalley.
The elevation of the Sucubdi River, where the river is nearest the depression,- as stated pre¬
viously, is 563 feet above the sea, and its elevation at the Chucunaque, about nineteen miles from
this point in a direct line, nearly, toward the Lara, is 142 feet in the bed of the stream where the
banks of the river are 15 feet high ; the valley is still narrow and the country hilly. The elevation
of the Chucunaque River, some sixteen miles below the mouth of the Sucubdi River and far to
the eastward of any proposed line of canal from Caledonia Bay to the Lara, is 70 feet above the
sea, where the banks of the stream are some 20 feet above the bed of the river and the country is
rolling.
Between the Chucunaque River and the Lara there is a dividing ridge, as evidenced by the
streams which flow from the southward into the Chucunaque above and below the mouth of the
Sucubdi, one of which I supposed to be the La Paz, and explored for a mile, finding it a stream
with a rocky bed, in a narrow valley, shut in by hills, and having a very rapid fall.
No farther explorations were considered necessary in this direction for the object in view, and
though it would have been " easy work" to have carried the main line of survey from camp No. 9
down the valley of the Sucubdi to the Chucunaque with the well-organized and experienced party
then in the field, and thence across the dividing ridge to the Lara, compared with the laborious
work of surveying across the mountains—and the party could have earned, thus, the credit of having
carried a line of survey across the Isthmus—I urged you to give up the idea of crossing the Isthmus
here and to transfer the party to some other locality.
In regard to the feasibility of this route for an interoeeanic canal, I think there can be no
question that it is utterly impracticable, unless, indeed, that this location for such a canal is con¬
sidered to so far excel all others possible on the Isthmus, that a canal would be undertaken by
capitalists or a nation which would require in at least twenty-five miles of its length an average
cutting of over 425 feet, and of which the least cutting on the distance would be 172 feet at the
lowest estimate. Moreover, if a system of locks should be thought of as practicable on this route,
it is evident that if a summit cutting of 100 feet was made between the Sucubdi and the depression
it would be necessary in a distance of about four miles to lock up 540 feet from the bay to the
Sucubdi and then descend the valley of the Sucubdi by a system of locks to the Chucunaque, be¬
tween which and the bay of San Miguel there is a dividing ridge. It is doubtful, indeed, if by any
means the summit-locks could be supplied with water, and such an interoeeanic canal, in any
event, would not be desirable. In this connection permit me to add the reflection that a glance
at the general topography of the Isthmus shows that the common source of the Chucunaque and
Bayano Rivers is at a point some fifteen miles, more or less, to the westward of the mouth of the
Sucubdi, which source must be at least at as great an elevation above the sea as the mouth of the
Sucubdi. It is seen that these rivers in their course to the sea, the one to the eastward, the other
-V
to the westward of their common source, trace, in a measure, the arc of a great circle drawn
through the three points, the mouths of these rivers and their common source; and that from the
territory within this arc, streams flow to both rivers, indicating that it has a higher elevation than
the valleys of these rivers.
It is hopeless, then, to find any lower ground for a route for a canal from the Atlantic to the
Gulf of San Miguel which will cross these rivers than that below tide-water on each, on the Bayano
near Chepo, on the Chucunaque near Yavissa.
It is an established fact, that where tide-water is first met descending these rivers, the river-
banks are some 20 feet high. Assuming that average high tide on the Pacific is only 10 feet above
the mean level of the sea, to bring the bottom of a canal at the proper distance below the level of
low tide, there would be required at these points a cutting of at least 50 feet.
It would seem that a route for a canal can hardly be considered even practicable that will cross
either of these rivers much above tide-water, and the attention is drawn naturally to the shorter
D ARIEN SHIP-CANAL,
263
routes from the Atlantic to these rivers below tide-water 5 in the one case, the shorter of all routes
from the Gulf of San Bias to the Bayano, and in the other, from the Gulf of Darien to the Paya and
the Tuyra Rivers, and by the latter to the Gulf of San Miguel.
In conclusion I wish to remark that the route from Washington River, through the mountains
to the Sucubdi Yalley, was especially indicated for examination as the subject of a voluminous
pamphlet by Dr. Cullen, who, however, states that his opinions are not based upon a detailed survey
of the route. Such reconnaissances and surveys as were made here appeared necessary to me to
settle the question of feasibility discussed in the pamphlet by actual survey.
From the forks of the Caledonia River the mountain range is plainly visible for several miles
to the eastward, and there is no indication of a depression in the range in that direction.
This country is densely wooded, and an explorer who passed from the valley of the Caledonia
to the Sucubdi, either through the depression or overlooking it from the trail, without correct
knowledge of the respective elevations of the valleys, would be deceived as to the practicability of
the route.
I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
J. A. SULLIVAN,
Assistant United States Coast Survey.
Commander Thos. O. Seleridge,
Commanding Darien Exploring Expedition.
O
APPENDIX
SUMMARY OF WORK PERFORMED BY THE DARIEN EXPEDITIONS OF 1870-1871, AND 1873.
In the northwestern portion all the country adjoining and the valleys of the following
livers have been surveyed eifeher with the spirit-level or closely recorded observations of mercurial
barometers : Mandinga, Samagundi, Necalagua, Carti, Cartisinequa, Bay a mo, and Marmoni.
Hydrographie survey of the Gulf of San Bias and Bayamo, or Chepo River, to junction with
Marmoni.
In Central Darien.—By same process, what is known as Cullen's or Strain's route, being the
same as reported upon by Gisborne. Also the Caledonia or Aglamate, Aglaseniqua—river called
by us the Washington to the north of the Agla—the Sassordi, Morti, Sucubti, Chucunaqua,
Savanna, and Lara Rivers.
Hydrographie surveys of Caledonia and Sassardi Harbors, and Savanna and Lara Rivers.
In Southern Darien the river Atrato, from Quibdo to sea, 280 miles. The river Tanela, known
as De Puydt route—what is known as the Gorgoza, Lachame, Lacharme or Tuyra route, comprising
Tuyra, Paya Cuë, Terculegua, Cacarica, and Peranchita Rivers. Also the valleys of the Kapipi,
Doguado, Murindo, Turcundo, Cuia, and Bojaya Rivers.
Hydrographie surveys of Darien Harbor, Gulf of Darien, known as Columbia Harbor or
Chiri Chiri Bay.
Astronomical points were established on the Atlantic coast at Aspin wall, Cape San Bias,
Isla del Oro, (Caledonia Bay,) Isla del Muerto, (Darien Harbor.)
Pacifie side.—Panama, Chipigana, and Pinogana.
In the survey of the above the following table will indicate concisely the amount of work per¬
formed in each year.
Ydar.
Miles meas¬
ured.
Miles leveled.
Miles sur¬
veyed but
estimated.
1
Miles leveled
by barome¬
ter.
Miles of short
line estab¬
lished.
1870
34.2
32.
120. 3
211.
61.
96.3
311.5
81.
110.7
57.
81.
14.
123.5
100.
10.
1871
1873
Total
494.5
368.3
503. 2
152.
233.5
S +" ©
w a
© ,rM 03
se ^ rd
4-> a> ^
G &D
c .2 g
134.
50.
15.
199.
1, 095. 8
M-zVE
INDEX
Scale.
1. Isthmus of Darien . » . 1-375,000
2. Napipi ancl Bojaya Iiivers and their tributaries 1-50,000
3. Napipi and Atrato Rivers, (sheet 1) „ 1-80, 000
4. Atrato River, (sheet 2) 1-80, 000
5. Atrato and Peranchita Rivers, from Columbia Bay to the Divide, (sheet 3) 1-80,000
6. Columbia Bay, (Gulf of Darien) 1-40, 000
7. Profile of ship-canal, via the Napipi and Doguado Valleys j Ver'1"
8. Profile of the Napipi route, (1871) j ^Ve'r^l-l' 000
9. Tuyra and Cue Rivers, &c - 1-80, 000
10. Darien Harbor and Tuyra River 1-40,000
11. Isthmus of Darien, between Caledonia Bay and Gulf of San Miguel 1-100, 000
12. Isthmus of San Bias . 1-100,000
13. Mandinga Harbor, (Gulf of San Bias) 1-20,000
14. Valley of the Atrato, (copy of an old Spanish map) 3/; = 10 st. ms.
15. Atrato River,from Vejia to Quibdo -- 1-80,000
16. Routes of steamers between Cupica Bay and the Asiatic continent | ^lectinm™
INDEX
Page.
General instructions 1
Letter from Commander Selfridge—List of officers and civilians 5
Interoceanic canal—Routes for a canal 6
The orology of the Isthmus of Darien 7
Climate 9
Inhabitants 10
Geological formation-—Survey of the Isthmus of Darien.. 11
Carrying out the instructions for a systematic survey 13
Conclusions upon the Darien and Morti routes . 24
Survey of the San Bias route 25
Results of the survey of San Bias 29
Health—Result of barometric observations 30
Letter of the Secretary of the Navy 31
Supplement—San Bias route 32
List of officers and civilians of expedition of 1871 33
Letter of Commander Selfridge—Rations, &c 34
Description of the portion of Darien to be explored 35
Inhabitants—Climate . 35
Soil—Forests—Rivers 37
Evaporation . 38
Health—Geological features 39
Sailing of the expedition 40
Commencement of the survey—Letters, &c 41
Darien Harbor 49
Commencement of the survey 50
The survey of the Napipi route 53
Continuation of the survey of the Tuyra route 58
De Puydt route » 64
Discussion of the route via Tuyra and Cacarica Rivers 65
Discussion of the Napipi route 66
Advantages of the Napipi route—Other routes 70
General remarks 71
Astronomical positions determined 73
Conclusion 74
Expedition of 1873 -. 75
Commencement of operations of expedition of 1873 77
Accuracy of the survey—Discussion of route via Napipi and Doguado Valleys * 83
Obstructions at the mouth of the Atrato .. . 84
Mouth of the Atrato—Geological nature of the proposed line 85
Harbors—Length and dimensions 86
Water supply 87
Demand—Cost and excavation 88
Plan as shown on profile 89
Reservoir-—Aqueduct—Summary of expenses 90
Plans—Pre-eminent advantages of line via Napipi and Doguado Rivers 91
Health—Trade of the United States with foreign countries 92
Trade of Great Britain and foreign countries for 1870 92
Table for steamers—Sailing-vessels outward 93
Return 94
Commander Lull's report on hydrographie operations, 1870 95
Hydrographie survey of Man dingo Harbor 96
Report of Commander E. P. Lull, U. S. N., upon the surveying operations of the Atlantic division of Darien
expedition of 1871 99
268
INDEX.
Page.
Geological report upon the Darieu route and Nerealagua River, Bay of San Bias, by J. Petigru Carson, E. M.,
expedition of 1870 127
Barometrical report by J. Petigru Carson, 1870 141
Report upon the geological formation of the Sassardi, and Morti, and San Bias routes, by E. W. Bowditch, assistant
mineralogist, expedition of 1870 151
Report on the geology and natural history of the Isthmuses of Darieu aud Panama, by Dr. G. A. Maack, expedition
of 1872 155
Report upon analysis of specimens of coal, by Professor G. F. Barker, New Haven 177
Report upon the astronomical observations of expedition of 1870, by A. T. Mosman, assistant U. S. Coast Survey .. 181
Report upon the astronomical observations, by F. P. Blake, jr., assistant U. S. Coast Survey, 1872 195
Report on the sanitary condition of the Darieu expedition of 1870, by W. J. Simon, passed assistant surgeon U. S. N.,
and Alfred Griffith, assistant surgeon, U. S. N 223
Medical report of the Darien expedition of 1872, by Linnaeus Fussell, acting passed assistant surgeon... : 225
Report upon the winds, currents of the Pacific Ocean, and the most favorable courses for vessels to and from the
terminus of a ship-canal at Cupica Bay, South America, by Lieut. Collins U. S. N 229
Report upon the survey of the Darien line from Caledonia Bay to the junction of the Sucubdi and Cliucunaqua
Rivers, by J. A. Sullivan, assistant U. S. Coast Survey 261
Appendix—Illustrating work performed 265
Map—Index 266
fir reel/on Sucinv.
TffméûrJs PfMfiljlZclïliïla
P? Masagiui
MËà
/MUtiides Gzy s
'«fè ♦
' :: à +
C/lùJrinif Cays
(Jiiefigol
(^''Vv\v CiiM'/wI
Beua Bias
ISTHMUS orDARIEN
tjrimmll
Compiled from
SURVEYS OF THE U. S. EXPEDITIONS
IB70 and 71.
ConiiMiiuler T. 0. SELFRIDGE IT. S.N. Coiraiiundinl
and from fke Lest Authorities extant.
l"lir«hh\
JsimMtst? Cayo
I am OS
"IP?'JH&sgur'fos
,Areru«? Oy
oeaie: 575000
Statute "Mile s
NauticaJ. Mile
JpAJWMA
'Sett vie Car re to
Sierra
tf'ri/i /</&/%&.
"mm.
P! Curibi
OAwt'ff./
f-jjZirytiitaL^,
AÎuS/Jà 9
0 n S
P*Arenas'
"Êté^
~%n mSwkm*m
j|*. \tJ3olernderosI-
SAS MIGUEL
PtOoolo
m a. le I ■
Trtnni
'net* dot Ati
Jl/tcite/u
•PfCAoiw
CSrac/tne
AS fey
fjff. Caputi/r
jB. <M\> Gj*4tnvle>
r^Ê&JSiPétr l&rrW
WPm
vmmiis
wmA
JTûrizdn toU >20000
Ve r't icaZ fëïïv
jjjgp )S
IllCIO
Pavkrcmdo
PClrdifo
iViiii. CurbamdoT
"Muriru
Hut» b<>] (It \-f~
H=,,r S
C.Murzo1
0 C TAVXA
BAT
CTJPICA
BAY
» 'l' %jp"® d % a
»• % ^ Vijja
iJuA ^/ïy Plier te 4
^sry *■
«<* SSL
* 4, J* ^
*-»1u ^
dm. f^wto-lithag-apMc Co,^Ar2" (Osborne's "Process)
< Z r. -«iMf. i
77*05
SURVEY of "the
A XI) TIIKIR TRIBPTARIKS. "
by the
%/
DARIEN EXPLORING EXPEDITION
Com* rtart/lrr T 11 ()' S O. S E LER ID Ci E, U. iS.JV. Co?n *&y
/assisted,/fry
L iei 'tenants Collin s, E a ton. & Su Hi y an
Ensigns Paine, & Taunt
Alidsk " Gait, & Miles.-
Scale: i: 50,000
The Field So tes of the, S'uzvef were plotted M'ith a Magnetic Variation. ofTUifift
( Survey of J871. )
L /AïOA
, f4.
. J -
Summit Xep
Double/;,
All this Tract of Country - between •
the Eapipi and Doguado Rivers-/
is verr rugged and, rn ou/Uainous,
Depth of Hater is expressed in /àthorns.
A. Proposed Site f Reservoir, fjooo'x/ooo'x20'J
A au educf.
ZZiSO
Profile of the Atjlieciuet or Feeder, bro/n the Cuba River*. to the LVapipi R/eer.
//orixantcU Scale ; / ■' ZS/J90
Ortit cT/ „ ZOO lift le an tae/t
%ÊMÈÊÂ
t.,'-
®f JIA ^
■fVd ffi'. '
Rive/
tiçèi
Catnf>7
TEBAIS^
licfioyn
Statute Miles
Nautical Miles
Dents CaUaJian, Dette.
itinued up to Quitdo
on S heat JVo.3.
7 6°50
Longitude^ West from>\Greenwich
«4
C UP |
B A
of the
dim. Phot* -Lithographic it. FY. (Oslrrnej Prtcess)
Plate
Am. Phot-litkograpkie Co. ACT. fOsbcrne's Process.J
PIa teIV.
Xm Photc Lithographic Cc.XY. (titter/its 'Prrore-j
Plate
■j4m. Thete Lith*$rapkie t'o.XT(Atbernn.t Traces
riate VU.
A' I PIP/ A A D DOGUADO R/VHR S
as projected bp
Commander TWO'S O. SE"L FRIDGE U.S. A'e/iy/
(bmmanc/mj/ ( r. S.Jiariert SJcejilorinjj Ji.jcpedi/pn,
1873.
/Jonjonlcd Scat* ■ 7 •' 4a, OÔO
Vertical CO d. to an, inch..
jL eriçth of Tzuvnc? ■■ S Stat Miles.
Ueiffht „ „ 112 Feet.
Width „ „ So „
Masonry 4 Ft. thick.
Thvo Shafts - at V&Y - each. 7S ft in, diameter.
Cross Sectioi
Tunnel
i'cap * 20 & to on. t.
* Water S apply far 24 hoars.
Close of dry season., _ Mctpipl River. JZ. 0 80, OOO Cub.fi.
,, - C'uia. River. IO, 800. OOO „
Cross Section at R
Scale . SO ft. toon me*.
3.Z80.000 Cab. ft
2) era, and for 2A hoars.
Leakage. {at ZOOO Cub. feet per minute ) Z. 8 SO.OOO
Jii VOjo oration.. 800,000
Waste ( ne.» toss /com- Filtration. ) J. ooo, ooo
20 /■ oc/cages per clap. - representing a trade. \
of 7. son. ooo tans, three times the present I h.6'7 t.dOO
amount. I
Fsccess of ' Supplf ' over D ema/id,.
Su/lflty, cturi.ru/ the wet season., from, the JVa.pi.pc River atone.
Length of* a single Lock, 427 feet
Width » » „ £4 »
Lift » " r, - to „
'Total Tvtxmiber of Locks,, - 2o
Three Sidings, each. 2ooo/h. long- by Soft, wide,
s he mi J es apart. ... ------
Jia.siJta.nk.
West Panic
8. 7-91,â'O0
6i OOO OOO Cub. ft.
.See Cross Sections for other detail dim en.
Total, estimated cost of construction,,
dive rape cost per ?r/Z7e , atout.
Cross Section of the Atrato River
at the mouth, of the Jfapipi fiver
Sod. Scale-: 720 ft to an inch.
Cross Section a t "K" (in Rock)
S cette. SO f). to an Inch.
Whole distance from. Ocean, to Ocean, via
the JLtrafo, and, this Route.
778 'Statute Aft le, a
1200C
II80C
JZOOO
66OO'
23OOO'
J.0,000:
70,7/OZ '
3SOO-
Total Lenpth of Cctnal 28. 2 Stai■ Afilei
S?>: Lilh/x/rapnc le. -V Y (Otbernt s PrvcwyJ
Plate IX.
1
h
X
N
V. |
2 55
I" g
*$ to
II £
§ IX Nfc.
S
Si
f
î4
{ Pi.ARUSA
r~
r-
. 5ô--~^CUP£
-<
tQ, MARGU£R/TA ^
> ^
'-.P.P/S&rtA
134- KM./^aca
-\
N
à
</7.£-£A>A/?A/V
-^/R.TUYRA
<
>
r-
t-
-e.
-A
O
-*\
•» aV*
I)ARIEN EXP E 1) rn ON
Under (lie Command of T 0. SEL FRIDGE. Commander U. S.Tskvy:
1871.
SHEET No.L.
TUYRA and CUÈ HIVERS.
from santa maria
TO THE DIVIDE.
Survey by Commander SELTR1DGE.
"Master J.Cl.iCatou arid Ensigns JE. liUllev a nd S.C.Palne It S.Aikvy.
Mi: A.L.Oirvall C.E. and "Mr A. Stokes.
Scale: îiôVoo
, , Slat n.te Mile.s.
NamtLoR 1 "Miles.
Dt< twi l TyvAR >1iJ ers.
Pinogana: $%£#?£%
WÊê
SSA#;
3)0'
otm.Phvttt I.J.I,huçrtffil(l<: Co.XY l(hboroes pnees.',.)
P/a/PX.
Ytm tYioto-Lithcgmtphic CoMY. (Oi&trntYProcess)
Plate X7L
7SlW
Cbucbimiie l£LrmdK
P* StmTBlas \
...r
C
ttuimvllifi
, a'A <
GUI.F OF SAX B L.
Kefçreji ces.
D ari erj Expédition) 1H70.
Geodesic Oifrr vodtons, f.opoor. ami
hyduoan surveys in- tfu Golf* of Jem Blas;
Survey o/' the■ JtCasidvny to ami JVhrextlcoeptta..
divers and of the /uadiratcrr of tfu -, I(asn/> no
Jirvvr. DeterrMiia.ticno of the 'Peaks of the.
(ordidc-ras
Met) ougal s Survey, 1864:.
Ha y u n o, H(tz.rru) n.i. arul fan- Hose Hivers, aero sj
tJu- CorHéflc r as to a. B ranch. of tier to River
C. 11. 'D avis, Re ax Admiral, 17'. S. N.
Jt-tport oh. 'Interoc.ea.7ii.e- Cx.rr.a lii and- JtaiZ-
r&cadsi Wcis'fvt nylon, 7&C6.
'Dr. IVtei-niaiiELS Geogr. AlitflxeiKixxgeci. 1862.
. A.. 7w .'.'ayvt.i IIAoko «.<• C?t<
Jrthmns of Seen. Bices. With- JCayj -
IBritiah.Adrmr attv Chart 2Ï? 2267
I)a rien Exp e diti on, 1871.
Surrey of Carte f&vev fry
Secret. B- JfuhbetrtZ If S hie i • y.
y Hioiimjyj.i if>'> "K
DARt E N E XPE DIT ION
I7n.de i• the Command oL' T. O. Sel fridge, CommandevUS. N.
1870 ÊP 71.
MAP OP THE
ISTHMUS OF SAN BLAS
Scale xoiifeoo
, .. . , .. , /ait. 9°29'3&'f4-
// stfOflOJil icerl (yt.atuifl : ye-) "2' S'.B
jfJrcotvn, ë tr A.Pafelew.
^>Ch.epiîLo Island
"gjoo
4m. PriûtC-LitÂagraphiC Co. .ACYtOiimtusfrvcessi
Note.
Soiindiny are in. tir//to in s on/side
of ihe three /ict/io/n, eanire, ise/eet
inside - redeeood te sneat-st /oh- tide.
Mean rise and Zed/. a/' tide /t.tt/ee/.
Car.rented j&storAtisAenent /it /tones sen
Astronomictd Miat'ion.: f'c*^*
Z/O/iy/9 o2 âd H:
P* San Bias
Channel \£j
"Note.
The bro/ten Cowl Une is (a/ten.
ream theEnylis/vAdntintdt.y
Chart, do/sut San-Slots, Sail
ht and Cltatme/Td, were de¬
termined ty tria,nytda. tien,
J/tentant is ratted to t/ie oor-
rect pt/fitM/n. v/Poin t San-
. iff las as- here /tr.id domnt/
di/'/èrâty atout- Z7^ of
teny. iront, that, on, the
Sriy/islo C'/tserts.
SALITA
GERTIE
ELSIE
«toHable Id.
GULF of SAX HI.AS
Showing tlie Position of
MANDINGA HARBOR
s»
£>cale loouou.
iNKLLIE
?Biren |i.ei*
;LENA
%* TRIDENT
ill.] OIL
AMMEjy
MANDINGA HARBOR
G.ULF OT SAN BI.AS.
Tri go no inetri cal S urve y
U. S. DARIEN EXPEDITION
Commander T.O. SELFRIDGE I'.KN. Commandin
1870.
TRIANGULATION
by
A.T. M o s m an Ass t. U. S .C. S.
HYDROGRAPHY
Lieut.Coi11drE.I? Lull
arid
jji s J .G.Ëat or» » A.E Riot a*, I. M J lawTev I*. S-Na. vy
Dr awn by A. Pol i te r
Scale: 20000
Statute Miles.
Nautical Mile:
Plate Xlll.
plat* xrr.
PlateXV.
ï
9wP
No: 3
$&{\
JbfoiL tTis of
.? 13 ëbera T?iver
THE ATRATO RIVER
ft' oni
L A VÉ Jl A TO QUIBDO
Srn-tvvfzt /■>! -
Commander T, O. SE1/FKIDGE & L ! F.COLIiI.N S. U.S.Navy
U. S.Dai'ieji Expedition
1873.
Scale. 80000
SOTES:
fPfieei this Survey. «w mode, the River -wets at. about, its lowest
stage- ■■ the soueidini/s, -wJviehj are. expressed, wv feet, may, therefore,
6e taken, ^as show/dig, very nearly, the màrujrujm -depth (of water.
Sandy fRoi7its, Tiars or JPlaj as,
and uncovered when if is low.
copeT'od when l/m River t«
Denis Cfzilplmn. tie/tr.
Ql
TTO xzr**
tfnuVbato-Lithographie. Ca.dVi(0sb»rnti-prMu)
Plate XVZT.
)
./jerii-a CaJJahan, ;Z/et£,
"A
U.S.Darien Exploring Expedition
C'fun/iifisifter TllO'S O. .Telti'ldsçe, t/:s.. \"Oun/'if'
CHIRI CHIRI RAY
/aa/n a, SarPep b/J
77. s. s. titscarora "
( 'ou/m G t»o. E. Belknap. (:S..
S A ore- /Itte 7A. O'tr/srt r7 7.' J"'. .Awe/A <& Zs't. O. A . .7'orrt.s
IJ/ydt-oçr-cr.pA.f At/ JA fr. Xf...JVbrr/s.
/j a J ô°3/t A. 7si>tr.g. 77 A3'Où'/fk'st /rot??. O'-reentAcA .
■J/ttt/. lesr: 7"AO'Alael.
1873
//. WF.&C. Ill'' XXX'T, Spring rise Xl/Ip- t.
x O/tservctfùin Spot,
tf- u>. .1 • ryreen rat at tttArea n-'tt/i St/aot.
Scale ■■ /o.ooo.
• ) /a/a A , f ///e.
.Xat t A < ■<.(/ . 1/t/e--.
■ /pi.Piprthilhc^ruplii, • i