fetters
from
Ltltcta
á
NORTHWESTERN
UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY
The Gift of
ALICE KEEP CLARK
This private edition is
limited to two hundred
copies of w h i c h this is
^ o.
Copyright, 1924
by
Alice Keep Claxk
Letters from Cilicia
by
Alice Keep Clark
PRESS OF A. D. WEINTHROP ft CO.
CHICAGO, Ü. S. A.
To my father and my mother whose
absolute sympathy and keen interest
kept them close to me in spirit every
day that we were separated.
Alice Keep Clark
FOREWORD
ON February 16, 1919, the "Leviathan" left
New York for Brest, carrying a company of
nearly two hundred and fifty Near East Relief
workers on their way to Turkey and Syria. The
journey from Brest to Marseilles was made in an
American ambulance train and the last lap of the
trip to Constantinople was on the "Gloucester
Castle," a British hospital ship. Constantinople
was the point from which workers were sent into
the interior. The plan was to carry on relief
largely in "occupied" territory where the Allies
were in control, hut as time went on and the Turks
became restless, it proved to he less dangerous to
he in so called "unoccupied" regions.
The following story is made of extracts from
letters written to the author's family in America
and from her journal, kept during the latter part
of the time when the city of Hadjin and the com¬
pound on the outskirts were besieged by the Turks
and postal and telegraphic communication with
the rest of the world was cut off.
LETTERS FROM
CILICIA
February Twenty-fifth
It is difficult to realize that it was only day
before yesterday that we landed at Brest. It was
interesting to be at the canteen; in fact, this
glimpse of France so soon after the war is very
worth while. The cross-country ride to Marseilles
that I dreaded has proved anything but difficult.
Sunday night at eight o'clock we marched to the
station and boarded the ambulance train which
consists of fourteen cars, along each side of which
are three tiers of iron berths with army blankets
and pillows. During the day the middle berth
is taken down and put on the lower one, making
a good seat. The regulations are strict, lights are
out at ten and we must be up and dressed by half
after seven in the morning. At meal times, enamel
plates and cups are passed by the orderlies and we
have regular soldiers' food. In the morning, dry
bread, bacon and coffee and this noon we had
"slum gullion" (veal stew), dry bread, coffee and
bread pudding. We have had almost constant
rain
[1]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
rain since leaving the "Leviathan" but this motn-
ing our eyes opened to blue skies and scenery not
unlike that of Italy, with dark cypresses, grey-
green olive trees and red-tiled roofs with the snow
capped Cevennes Mountains in the background.
Blossoming almond trees give a touch of pink and
the air is like an elixir. Think of stopping at
Tarascón and Aries and not being allowed to even
step out on the platform!
February Twenty-sixth
The "Gloucester Castle" was being held for us
when we arrived at two this afternoon, after our
sixty-six hours' journey across France. We sail
in an hour, and the post closes in fifteen minutes.
We go to Salonika and hope that we can be taken
on to Constantinople but it all depends on the
orders of the British Admiralty.
March First
On we sail, with Africa not far away. Our
course lies outside of Sicily, not through the straits
of Messina, on account of the mines. We are pro¬
vided with a mine sweeper but it is not yet put in
position. There are several interesting passengers,
among them a British General on his way to Baku,
one of the "Fighting Goughs," who was at one
time in command of England's Fifth Army.
Our
[2]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
Our company taxes the capacity of the ship and
we are packed in like emigrants. It is rather of a
mess, with our luggage either on or under our
bunks. I wish I could picture my surroundings
and my companions in a way to make them real to
you. Yesterday I had a little chat with the 3rd
officer and he told me many of his experiences.
When war was declared, he was on a ship that put
into Algiers. The French would not let them coal,
so, as he said, "We just toddled down to 'Gib' "
and there loaded. Five German ships tried to
dash out of the Mediterranean but they held them
at the Rock, firing from those holes so guarded
from sight.
March Third
I woke at six, had my salt water bath, and dress¬
ing quickly, went on deck to see the islands that I
spied from the port near my bunk. I found that
the one on our right was Andros, where fifteen
years ago Robert and I stopped, and to our left,
the snow capped peaks of Attica rose clear against
the sky. The sea is rough and the sky overcast but
at times the sun comes out and there are bright
patches on the water.
March Fourth
I hurried on deck at seven this morning for a
glimpse of the last of a rosy sunrise and a most
wonderful
[3]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
wonderful mountain panorama. Snow-clad Mount
Olympus looked worthy of the gods. We came
into Salonika harbor at nine o'clock, passing
on the way the British steamer "Norseland," tor¬
pedoed by the Germans and beached with one end
high in air.
We are well out from land and we are not cer¬
tain what our movements are to be although we are
hoping that permission will be granted us to go to
Constantinople in this ship. I am anxious to see
something of Salonika, but it all depends on the
report which Dr. White, who has gone on shore,
brings back. The place is said to be terribly dirty
and filled with refugees and soldiers from every
clime. There has been typhus and landing may be
forbidden. The view of the city is most alluring
from this distance.
March Sixth
Permission has been given to continue on this
ship to Constantinople and we sail this afternoon.
Tuesday we were allowed to go ashore and Mrs.
Underwood and I wandered about a bit on the
water front crowded with humanity. We counted
at least ten nationalities during our stroll. There
was much wind and attendant dust and the people
were so dirty that we hated to have our clothes
touch them. Later we walked through some of
the narrow streets where there were many sad but
picturesque
[4]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
picturesque sights. A large part of the city was
burned a year ago and the refugees are living as
they can. The British have put up great barracks
to house them, but many cling to their old homes
and in a corner of a burned shell of a building we
saw a family sheltered by a flapping canvas, cook¬
ing over a fire built on the ground. In a Greek
Catholic Church, we saw some interesting mosaics
—a Madonna back of the altar and in the dome
a procession of saints.
This morning, as I came on deck, we were near
the island of Tenedos and not long afterward we
reached the entrance to the Dardanelles.
It was, and continues to be, a thrilling experi¬
ence to see the shores of Gallipoli. We had a near
view of the "River Clyde" on the beach where the
troops were landed, and not long afterward we saw
the wrecked "Majestic." We are now, at noon, an¬
chored off the town of Chanak at the narrow part
of the Dardanelles, half way to the Sea of Mar¬
mora. We have taken on a company of Sikhs
bound for Constantinople. They have built their
own stoves of mud on the lower forward deck,
where they can cook their food according to the
rules of their caste. I am watching little sail boats
dancing on the water while back of them rise green
and brown slopes where sheep are grazing. A
cluster of dull red-roofed houses, far off purple
hills and overhead an exquisite blue sky flecked
ivith
[s]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
with fleecy clouds completes the picture. We are
hoping to reach Constantinople tomorrow after¬
noon, but this delay makes it uncertain.
March Ninth
Yesterday morning we dropped anchor in the
Sea of Marmora. The sun was not yet up but as
it grew light we looked out at the mosques and
minarets, lovely in the early morning. It was a
little cloudy but there was a beauty that in its way
equaled that of a sunny day. About ten o'clock,
while we were still some way from the land, sev¬
eral of the leaders of our party went ashore. Upon
their return we were told where we were to stay.
Most of the number were assigned to a hotel on the
island of Principo, a few to Robert College and
the American College for Girls, about forty are
being cared for in sleeping cars at the railroad sta¬
tion, and six, I among the number, are at Gedik
Pasha, the girls' school of our Missionary Board in
Stamboul. I am delighted to be here with Mrs.
Marden and Miss Jones. The hotels in the city are
crowded and although not all are pleased with the
arrangements, it is the best that can be done. I
count myself most fortunate. I wish you could
have seen our little party making its way to this
place. Miss Holt, who speaks Turkish, secured
three porters, called "hamals," who carried our
hand luggage and we followed on foot. We
crossed
[6]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
crossed the famous Galata bridge and passed by
and along with a motley crowd. It had rained in
the morning and the cobble stones were slippery
with mud. Motors, carriages and ox carts went
by, splashing us. Men in fezzes, beggars in rags,
veiled women and others either unveiled or with
veils thrown boldly back, passed us and the air was
thick with the ever present indescribable odors of
the Orient.
On and on we plodded by circuitous ways until
panting and hot we arrived. We received a cor¬
dial welcome and it was good to be in a home and
later, to rest in a real bed. The sleeping rooms and
the living room are on the fourth floor and we have
a magnificent view out over the Marmora.
March Twelfth
It has been proposed that I go to Hadjin and
I am glad of the opportunity. You know how I
have longed to be in the interior. I am sure that it
must be true of Turkey, as we found it true of
China, that it is not in the great cities that one gets
nearest to the people.
It is a great satisfaction to think of being asso¬
ciated with Edith Cold. Now that she has re¬
turned to Turkey, Miss Vaughan will be able to
take her long overdue furlough and it may be that
we two will be the only Americans in Hadjin. You
need have no anxiety about me, for when we go the
British
[7]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
British will send a guard so that we shall not be
molested on the way and, once in the city, there is
nothing to fear.
Conditions are very chaotic in Constantinople.
People don't know how things are going to turn.
England has her hands full and France does not
seem equal to the task. The Armenians have ab¬
solute liberty, even carrying the Armenian flag.
This enrages the Turks but they have no power to
interfere. It is not safe to be out after dark on ac¬
count of the shooting. I have heard pistol shots
several times in the evening. Last night I slept
little and I could hear the watchman going his
rounds beating on the cobble stones with his club,
giving marauders ample time to make their escape.
By three o'clock his knocks became violent.
March Fourteenth
This living in a state of uncertainty as to where
I am to go and when, is wearing. I have not yet
been appointed to Hadjin, although I still hope to
go there. Several of the missionaries, Edith Cold
included, are to start in a day or two for Adana.
Since that city is the point of departure for Had¬
jin, I should suppose I could join this party but
it is difflcult for those in charge of the expedition
to get us all located in a minute. I am thankful that
this is not my first visit to Constantinople, for
everyone is so busy that there is little opportunity
for
[8]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
for sightseeing. The other day when I went to S.
Sophia I was surprised to find Turkish soldiers
quartered in the courts close to the mosque.
I enjoyed going about by myself this morning.
There were such interesting sights when I could
lift my eyes from the rough cobble stones. The
most direct route to the Bible House is through the
Grand Bazaar, a great building filled with booths,
where buying and selling goes on with much talk
and gesticulation. I try not to brush against the
people but it is difficult in the press.
March Sixteenth
Another Sunday and I am still here with no
definite plan for leaving. The Adana party has
gone and I feel a bit disheartened. I think that
from February 16th to March 16th, 1919, is the
longest month through which I have ever lived.
If twelve months are just twelve times as long, I
shall be snowy haired and tottering into my grave
when I reach home. Not that I am so miserable
but the time has seemed interminable. I certainly
have no right to complain when I think of the dear
women here at the school and realize all they have
endured these war years. They are plucky to the
last degree. Their joy in the boxes which have just
come is touching. Now there can be a respite
from the patching upon patching they have
had to do.
March
[9]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
March Twenty-third
I have had a beautiful day at Robert College.
I had luncheon with Mrs. Erwin and then made
one or two calls: everyone is most cordial. I went
out by tram but, in company with Miss Barker, the
return journey was on the Bosphorus. We ex¬
pected the boat would make but one stop on the
way but instead of this we went from shore to
shore, first in Europe, then in Asia. As Miss
Barker said, we "dolashed" all the way home. It
was a memorable trip, stopping at one time near a
most beautiful marble palace where Abdul Aziz
lived and died, and docking at another place near
a marble building where relatives of the Sultan
used to be entertained. The setting sun shone on
domes of mosques as we finally steamed into the
Golden Horn in a blaze of glory.
Yesterday we had tea with a Persian princess,
a friend of Miss Allen. She is of Swiss birth, but,
on marrying the prince, she became a Moham¬
medan, and, although dressing "a la Franka" in
the house, she wears a charshaf on the street. The
prince is in the Caucasus trying to enlist the sup¬
port of the British in his pretensions to the Persian
throne. The princess received us in a pale pink
silk gown. She is young and rather pretty. Her
little daughter, Ferouk, an elfish looking child,
was very cunning and friendly. The mother
speaks Turkish, Greek, French and English.
After
[10]
LETTERS
FROM CILICIA
After some music, we were served with tea and de¬
licious little cakes, and very soon made our adieus.
Later
Word has just come that the list of appoint¬
ments is posted and I am down for Hadjin. There
is no word as to when we start and Mrs. Marden
thinks I will not reach Hadjin until May, but I
can at least get as far as Adana. General Allenby
is on his way from Paris and as we shall be in his
district, we can't go an3rwhere until he gives the
word that there are enough soldiers for the region.
There has been trouble in Aleppo but we have
heard no details.
March Twenty-fourth
Five of us took a most interesting trip recently
to the Eyub Mosque at the end of the Golden
Horn. Eyub is counted a very fanatical place
but everyone was most friendly to us. It is blos¬
som-time and I can't tell you how delightful it was
to get away from the great dirty city and breathe
the sweet air of the country. The mosque is
greatly venerated as the place where the Sultans,
at the time of taking the throne, make their vows
and are presented with a sword. The room where
this ceremony takes place is too sacred to be pro¬
faned by the feet of Christians but we were per-
permitted
[n]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
mitted to peep through a tiny opening for a
glimpse of the beautiful tiled walls. We went into
another nearby mosque and, shuffling along in the
slippers which were provided at the door, were
careful to follow the directions of Mr. Emrich
and not stand in front of any kneeling Moslem.
Presently a good looking old Turk, having fin¬
ished his devotions, came forward offering to take
us about the place. He was a kadi (judge) and
was most friendly, reproving a Turkish officer who
scowled at us. Our new friend took us to another
mosque, the burial place of Abdul Hamid's pred¬
ecessor, and which is guarded night and day by
some of the Whirling Dervishes. Back of Eyub
and high up on the hillside lies a most picturesque
cemetery, and we climbed to the top for the ex¬
tended view of the Golden Horn with the "Sweet
Waters of Europe" to our right in the foreground
and, in the distance, the minarets of Constantinople
piercing the blue sky.
April Second
The word that comes from the interior telling
of the starving thousands makes me impatient of
the delay in getting to work. We learn of many
sad conditions in this country and in Russia. The
evacuation of Odessa is the latest horror. Yester¬
day, I met an American who had just reached
Constantinople from that city. He is a represen-
representative
[12]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
tative of the McCormick Harvester Company of
Chicago and has lived in Russia twenty-six years.
A week ago, he and his wife made their escape
from Odessa on board the steamer "Nicolai II."
The details of what he saw when the Bolsheviks
took the place and began killing the inhabitants
were sickening. Thousands of Russian refugees
are on ships lying in the harbor here and the prob¬
lem of feeding them is a difficult one.
Last Friday, Miss Barker took four of us to
see the Whirling Dervishes. We were fortunate
in getting places in the gallery of the mosque so
that we could look down on the men. First they
knelt in their dark robes and high brown fezzes,
while a weird orchestra of dervishes played on
curious instruments in a small enclosed place next
to us. After a time the kneeling men rose and, tak¬
ing off their shoes and outer robes, walked slowly
around the edge of the mosque going through an
elaborate bowing ceremony as they passed three
aged dervishes with white bands around their
fezzes. This was repeated three times and then the
whirling began, one first and then another, until all
were in the ring. The men wore long skirts that
fiared out as they whirled, suggesting the fine
"cheeses" they would make. Some had white
skirts and some green. One of the green whirlers
after spinning round and round, as if on a pivot for
almost ten minutes, came to a dead stop without a
trace
[13]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
trace of dizziness. The whirling was repeated
three times by all the men, followed by a final
ceremonial marching and hand kissing. The per¬
formance lasted an hour and a half and although
the air was heavy with odors and dust, I was glad
to have seen it. Yesterday Mr. Heinz, son of the
57 varieties, and food administrator for the Near
East under Hoover, came to tea. He had interest¬
ing stories to tell of visits with King Boris of Bul¬
garia, who appeared to be anxious to rule wisely.
He told us of lunching with the King of Rou-
mania, where he talked with a Russian Grand
Duchess, a cousin of the late Czar, whose father,
two brothers and three uncles had within a few
months been murdered by the Bolsheviks.
April Thirteenth
I can hardly believe the good news, but to¬
morrow the Adana and Aleppo party starts. This
afternoon I went to the American College for
Girls, on the Bosphorus. The weather was perfect
and it was a beautiful trip, with the Judas trees in
blossom and wistaria, white and purple, clamber¬
ing over walls and doorways. I must get my be¬
longings together for we make an early start in
the morning, going to Derindje on the sub-chaser,
where we make our last preparations before start¬
ing on the five days' journey to Adana.
April
[14]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
April Twenty-first
Let me begin by telling you of our trip on the
chaser. There was an order for us to land at Prin¬
cipo and, as we neared the island, we were signaled
by a British chaser that was having engine trouble.
We took on board the Danish Minister. He was
accompanied by his kavass, a gorgeous looking
creature. The British dreadnought "Marlbor¬
ough" was lying at anchor not far away and the
Danish official was taken directly there, where he
was received with much ceremony.
The reason for his visit was the presence of the
Dowager Czarina of Russia, a refugee from Yalta.
The Grand Duke Michael, with various other
dukes and duchesses and members of the aristoc¬
racy, who had escaped only with their lives, were
on the ship. We landed on Principo and ate our
luncheon in a lovely garden near a house built out
over the water, a place much liked by Edward
VII. of England. * * * Our quarters in De-
rindje were on the fifth floor of one of the enor¬
mous warehouses erected by the Germans for
freight houses at this station of the Berlin-to-Bag-
dad railroad. The whole place is under military
regulations and all of the relief workers, assigned
here even temporarily, have regular hours and
duties—the chief work being the checking and
sorting of relief materials. Since our party was
booked to leave in two days, we had our hands full
in
[xs]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
in attending to our requisitions for the journey as
well as for our stations. Derindje is situated al¬
most at the end of a long arm of the Marmora, and
across the water rise beautiful mountains.
Those of us who were bound for the interior
were busy all day in getting the box cars, in which
we were to travel, cleaned and fitted up to make
the five days' journey comfortable. We have six
cars—four of which serve as our living cars, one
for luggage and boxes and one for the cook car.
The flat car with the Case tractor makes an excel¬
lent observation car on which we take turns in rid¬
ing. There are thirty in our party and we have
two Armenian cooks. Our section makes part of
a long train of freight cars and we have an English
guard of five men.
From Derindje to Aregli we saw British sol¬
diers at all the stations, then for a little less than a
hundred miles, where the boundaries are in dis¬
pute, Turkish guards, and now at Bozanti, where
we are stopping for some hours, the Hindus, im¬
pressive in khaki turbans and trim uniforms, are
on duty. To give you an idea of how we live, let
me describe our car where there are six women.
We have iron beds, sheets, pillows, blankets, two
chairs, three wash basins, towels, two buckets and
a short ladder for getting in and out of the car.
The four windows are small square openings with
iron bars. Our meals are prepared in the cook
car
[16]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
car and plates, implements and food are passed to
us, the hours for meals being regulated by our
stops. We are having a remarkably comfortable
journey. During the day both of the wide side
doors of the car are kept open and we sit on chairs,
the ends of beds and boxes, and feast our eyes on
the wonderful panorama of ever-changing beauty
spread out before us.
I had no idea that there was such magnificent
scenery in Turkey. I imagine China will always
hold its spell over me but for riot of color in the
peoples' dress and picturesqueness of town and
country nothing can exceed what I have seen this
last week in Turkey. Of course one must remem¬
ber that I am seeing the country in the most favor¬
able season. The fields, which later will be brown
and sere, now are fresh and green with grain.
Flowers bloom on every hand. Heavenly forget-
me-nots in big blue masses look like bits of re¬
flected sky; scarlet poppies nod on their slender
stems and there are masses of some flower, the
name of which I do not know, that rejoice my very
soul with its amethyst color. Lilacs are in bloom
and at the same time roses are in their glory.
Flocks of sheep and goats graze on the hillsides
and now and then we pass a string of camels. Just
at sunset two women cross a field not far away, one
wearing an enveloping floating garment of orange
color and the other one of red, like a flame. We
stopped
[17]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
Stopped over Sunday in Konia and I was fortunate
enough to be invited to spend the time as a guest at
the American hospital. Konia is the Iconium of
Paul and later was the capital of Turkey.
Miss Cushman has been there all through the
war and, as relations with other countries were
broken off, she took on the office of consul until she
represented unofficially thirteen different nations.
She has had thrilling experiences and she was good
enough to share some of them with me. It was
Easter and when I appeared in the morning I was
greeted by the native nurses who said, "The Lord
is risen," and I was told that my reply should be,
"He is risen indeed."
April Tuaenty-ßfth
Before I speak of my present surroundings I
must tell you of the rest of the journey from
Konia. We reached Bozanti late in the evening
and stayed there until nearly noon the following
day. The Hindus stationed there are fine, upstand¬
ing men and their discipline is perfect. Bozanti
is an important post because it is at one end of the
long tunnel which was constructed by the Ger¬
mans. It was finished just at the time of the Ar¬
mistice so that the British were the first to use it.
Our train was a long one—eighteen cars beside our
seven, and we had two engines to pull us. The
rolling stock of the Berlin-to-Bagdad road is ready
for
[18]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
for the scrap heap. The engines keep giving out
and some of our long stops were made to give an
opportunity to tinker with the machinery. After
a wonderful ride through mountain gorges, we
came out on the Adana plain and about four in the
afternoon we reached Adana itself. I am to stay
in the home of Dr. and Mrs. Chambers and have
my meals at the school with Miss Mary Webb.
Everyone is so kind, so anxious to make me com¬
fortable and help me off to Hadjin. There will be
some delay in getting a man to conduct the little
party. Miss Webb will go with me as far as Sis,
the town on the edge of the plain, and there Miss
Vaughan will meet me. I shall have with me,
Alethea, the Greek young woman, and Mary Kah-
yan, an Armenian, who is to teach music at the
school. I found a letter from Edith, who is in
Hadjin anxiously awaiting me. Miss Vaughan
will leave for America as soon as I am installed.
April Twenty-ninth
Two days ago, Sunday, Dr. Haas said at sup¬
per, "I think you would better know what is going
to happen, so that if you hear any disturbance you
will not be alarmed. At six o'clock tomorrow
morning the city will be surrounded by Indian
troops and an order will be issued that all guns in
the possession of the natives are to be brought to the
Government House. Both Turks and Armenians
are
[19]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
are known to have weapons and if, during the
twenty-four hours following the order, sufBcient
guns are not surrendered to make it seem probable
that the command has been complied with a house
to house search will be made. Any person found in
possession of arms will be shot."
You can imagine it sounded startling, for when
the English say a thing they mean it. Monday was
quiet but the response from the people was not sat¬
isfactory, so the search began on Tuesday. As we
were finishing dinner about one o'clock there was
a disturbance in the street just below the window,
and we looked out to see a number of British sol¬
diers with a machine gun making a thorough mat¬
ter of the hunt. A little later, in a nearby house,
several bombs were found as well as a Mauser and
two Martinis, and the man who had concealed
them was immediately shot.
May Eleventh
Hadjin at lastl Let me tell you, however, that
it is Hadjin, Cilicia, not Turkey. I certainly did
not anticipate when leaving Adana that I should
be eight days on the road but so it proved. Dr.
Chambers had engaged two arabas (wagons) to
carry the trunks and boxes and we were to ride in
a yaila, a covered wagon with springs. Our per¬
mission to travel out of Adana had been secured,
the government had given us five gendarmes for
a guard
[20]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
a guard and we expected to get on the road by six
o'clock Friday morning. It was seven before the
arabas were loaded and when the vehicle arrived
for us it proved to be a carriage with a back seat
of ordinary width and the front one about five in¬
ches wide. I was for getting a second carriage but
no one seemed to think that possible and so we set
forth on our two days' trip to Sis with Miss Webb
and me on the back seat, Alethea on the little front
seat and Mary up with the driver. I wish you
could have seen our party as we rode out of the city
escorted by our guards, each one of whom carried
a gun and a knife as well as a belt of ammunition
with three rows of bullets—in fact, one of the men
had, beside the belt around his waist, two crossed
over his chest. The first part of the trip to Sis is
not particularly interesting, as the country is level
and the road exceedingly poor. Aside from hav¬
ing to stop from time to time to tie up the harness,
our journey was without incident until late in the
afternoon, when one of the wheels came off. It
was getting late and for a little time things looked
serious but the men pounded it on in some fashion
and we managed to reach a small Turkish village
where we could spend the night. Avedis Effendi,
our driver, was a great friend of the head man and
he took us to his house. We were greeted with the
greatest cordiality and escorted to a kind of plat¬
form called a throne, where the people sleep in
warm
[21]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
warm weather. Turkish coffee was served by one
of the two wives and then both wives and the two
sets of children looked us over and made frank
comments on our clothes and our features.
The women were very picturesque with bands
of gold coins across their foreheads and colored
strings and beads braided in their hair. Their gar¬
ments, too, were interesting—full baggy trousers
with broad sashes of gay colors. The house was
made of sun dried mud bricks and the room re¬
served for guests, to which we were taken, had a
hard dirt floor over which several small rugs were
spread, but there was no furniture. We hurriedly
got out our food for fear we might have to eat with
the family. Miss Webb and I had our traveling
beds and the girls their deosheks, and we made our
arrangements for the night as quickly as possible.
We felt quite comfortable and anticipated a rea¬
sonably refreshing sleep.
But alas for our hopes! I had just settled down
when something dropped on my hand. I lighted
my faithful lantern and made the pleasing discov¬
ery that a bird had its nest just above me. I moved
my bed and again tried to sleep, but there were
many uninvited guests, in other words, fleas and
bed bugs, so that I was in agony. To add to the
gaiety of nations, there was a sudden shower and
water began to drip from several holes onto the
bed.
Fortunately
[22]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
Fortunately the rain was soon over but the
night could hardy be called restful. We were up
at half past four and by six o'clock were on the
road again. We had some rain during the day but
got into Sis by five o'clock. There were fine views
this second day. Old ruined castles on high peaks,
dating back to the time of Armenia's greatness, and
snow capped mountains were always in sight. Dr.
Chambers had telegraphed Hadjin that I would
reach Sis on Saturday and I understood that he had
received an answer before we started from Adana.
We went to the school building which had recently
been returned to the Armenians by the Turks and
made ourselves very comfortable, using several of
the rooms which were absolutely free from in¬
vaders. Avedis, (who is a Hadjin man just back
from exile) telegraphed to Miss Vaughan and
found that she had not received word but that she
would start Monday morning. By riding fast and
hard she reached us Tuesday noon. In the mean¬
time I had had a little ill turn and it was not pos¬
sible to set out on the last stage of our journey un¬
til Thursday.
Beyond Sis we could not use wagons so it was
necessary to secure horses and mules. Miss
Vaughan had brought her new horse Victor for
me to ride. We were dressed before light, for the
loading of the animals was a tedious business.
Trunks and everything else had to be fastened to
pack
[23]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
pack saddles. We hoped to get camels, but none
were available at the time. As our procession left
the town the mutasarif galloped up and escorted
us a mile on our way. He was a Turk and wished
to show us this courtesy. Miss Vaughan was anx¬
ious that I should not get overtired so she insisted
that we should not travel too long at a time. We
were quite a cavalcade, for several Armenian men
had joined our caravan, feeling safer to travel in
company.
By two o'clock the order to halt was given and
we ate our dinner and rested in a sweet green
meadow near a stream.
Since we planned to make a four o'clock start
the next morning we decided to have our tent
pitched in this pleasant spot and go no further that
day. One of the Armenians galloped off and in
half an hour was back with a live sheep slung
across his saddle bow. He said that he had repre¬
sented to the owner of the flock that the daughter
of a famous British general was in the party and it
was fitting that a sheep be killed in her honor. We
patted its head and almost immediately it was
taken to a little distance, killed and the flesh while
yet warm, suspended over the fire and roasted.
Although it was not inviting, I tasted a small bit
that I might miss no experience. The men kept
the fire burning all night and made no pretense of
sleeping so that, with the shouting and singing, we
in the tent slept none too soundly.
We
[24]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
We rose before light that the picketed animals
might be brought together and loaded. It was
lovely to watch the morning light steal into the
valley. Flocks of sheep and goats came down to
the stream to drink and then, guided by the voices
of the shepherds who followed, they turned back
to the path and forming a single line trotted
quietly along. The different flocks did not mingle,
for each sheep knew his shepherd and he was
known of them. There were hundreds that passed
us and I soon lost count as we stood waiting for
them to go on before we could start on our way.
By afternoon the rain came down in torrents and
it was with difficulty that we pitched our tent and
endeavored to partially dry ourselves and our be¬
longings. The following morning the skies were
lowering, but the sun fought its way out and by
nine o'clock nature was smiling. Shortly after
leaving Sis we reached the Taurus foothills and
the rest of the way was entrancing in its beauty.
We passed early on this third day through a moun¬
tain gorge that reminded me of the Gorge de la
Chiffa near Algiers. The rushing water of the
Sihun danced far below our path. I was glad that
Victor was a mountain horse when the road be¬
came a ledge of rock hanging to the edge of a sheer
cliff. When we were three miles from Hadjin,
we stopped at a mossy spring to rest. We had no
more than dismounted when up galloped three
men who, having put spurs to their horses, brought
them
[25]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
them to a stop, lathered with foam. This display
of speed is most pleasing to an Oriental but, from
what I have observed, the people don't fancy haste
so much when it involves their own action. This
proved to be the first of a series of welcoming com¬
mittees posted along the way. Hiaratoon Efîendi,
who is the kaimakam (mayor), the gendarme
commandant and another official formed this first
group. After salutations and many compliments,
the company, augmented by these three, rode to¬
ward the city.
Let me tell you of a funny little incident of
the road. Hiaratoon Efifendi is a loyal friend to
the missionaries and has been to the compound to
see Miss Vaughan many times during the war.
This was her first journey away from Hadjin in
four years. The friends of the compound know
that mother is president of our Board and this was
the amusing statement made by the kaimakam:
"Miss Clark is the daughter of the president of
the Board in America and she is accorded the same
honor and respect in her country as that given to
the daughter of President Wilson. She is a great
lady." I ached with suppressed mirth when this
was translated, but I thought it might be a help
in the work and it was a pity to disabuse his mind.
Presently we came within sight of Hadjin,
which is most picturesquely situated on the hillside
with the mountains rising high above it. At the
point where we had our first glimpse of the city,
we
[26]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
we found a group of girls standing on either side
of the road. They carried green branches in their
hands and, as we walked our horses slowly, they
sang a song of welcome and scattered roses on our
path. These were Hadjin Home girls, and I con¬
fess to having been teary round the lashes as I
looked down into their eager upturned faces.
They fell in at the rear and we moved on a few
paces to where a company of the representative
Armenian men gave their word of greeting. Our
procession, now of some length, passed along with
no stop until we came to a great overhanging rock,
on top of which ten or a dozen young men with
their native musical instruments gave their wel¬
come. As we neared Hadjin, many of the curious
lined the way and we crossed the little stone bridge
and entered into the city. As we passed the Gov¬
ernment House, the gendarmes were all lined up
and saluted as we went by. The girls and some of
the young boys now preceded us and our line was
headed by a lad who carried aloft a young tree
which he had uprooted. From doorways and
from roofs, women looked at us. I said to myself,
"Let her which is on the housetop not come down,"
for as we wound our way along the narrow filthy
streets, up and yet up, we were crowded by the
multitude and wanted no additions to the number.
Hadjin is wonderfully situated, three thousand
five hundred feet above sea level, with the moun¬
tains that surround it rising a thousand feet higher
but
[27]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
but the city itself is wretched beyond description.
In nineteen fifteen, after the Turks had deported
practically all of the twenty-five thousand Armen¬
ians who made up the bulk of the population, they
attempted to destroy the city by fire. They suc¬
ceeded so well that of the forty-five hundred
houses only five hundred are standing. Ruins are
on every side. We traveled across the city by a
circuitous route to the compound, which lies a
third of a mile outside the limits, and reached this
last part of the way by a road that clings to the
side of the mountain. When we came to the
bridge, which is the beginning of this bit of road,
we were welcomed by the little children who had
stayed behind and, best of all, by Edith and Miss
McLean, the nurse. The compound seemed like
a little heaven, with roses just coming into blossom
and filling the air with perfume. I feel in my
bones that I am going to be happy. My room is
not in the main house, which is connected with the
school building, but in the one other house, not
more than seventy-five feet away. I am weary
after my days of travel, and I must save the rest
to tell you later.
May Nineteenth
I have been so busy adjusting myself to the life
here that there has been no time for writing.
Many people have come to call—in one day I
counted
[28]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
counted and found that thirty-three had presented
themselves. It is necessary to receive these people
and for that reason I have only just begun to get
into relief work.
The situation in Hadjin is peculiar. It was
thought that the people had been so thoroughly
dispersed in this region that there would be no re¬
lief problem but, strange to say, a larger per cent
of Hadjin people and those from the surrounding
villages are finding their way back to their homes
than from almost any other district. In Hadjin
the few hundred houses left standing are bursting
with humanity, the average number in each being
twenty, including babies. There is so much work
to do and so few to do it! When Miss Vaughan
leaves, which ought, for her sake, to be soon, there
will be just three American women to meet the
needs. Fortunately for Miss McLean and me,
there are teachers and older girls who can act as
interpreters. We rely greatly on the help of Miss
Hagopian, an Armenian who is a graduate of this
mission school and of the American College in
Constantinople. She is a fine consecrated woman,
who has had and who will continue to bear, great
responsibility. I am happy in the thought that she
is to work with me especially. Her brother, Mat-
teos, is our steward.
Directly after supper yesterday we climbed up
on the mountain side above our compound to see
the flock of goats, and it was as stiff a pull as I ever
tried
[29]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
tried. The shepherds live up there in tents and
during the day take the goats high up on the moun¬
tain, bringing them down to where we saw them
late in the afternoon, to be milked. I am thankful
that I take quickly to native food. I like yough-
oort, and it is considered exceedingly healthful.
It is like junket in consistency and closely resem¬
bles the thick sour milk we enjoyed in Russia and
Finland.
This morning we had breakfast at six, as there
was to be a wedding of one of the older girls in
the school house and we must be present. The
bride is an orphan and although the groom is not
pleasing in appearance. Miss Vaughan thinks it is
a good marriage for her, as the man is neither a
drinker nor a gambler. He has one valuable asset,
certainly—his entire upper set of teeth seems to be
made of gold.
It is the proper thing for the bride to show
grief, so all the time before the ceremony, while
the veil was being arranged, the young woman
sobbed and sobbed, which was rather affecting.
The guests came to the house in a long proces¬
sion, headed by a band consisting of violin, cym¬
bals and other instruments and then, the bride and
groom leading the line, marched to the big school
room where two Gregorian priests married them.
I am writing on the veranda looking out on
a part of the garden where the bees are busy gath¬
ering honey. Before long, mulberries and cherries
will
[30]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
will be ripe and not long afterwards, delicious
grapes. That promises well. I am going to be
contented here, for the mental and spiritual atmos¬
phere, as well as the physical, is bracing, and I
feel quiet in mind and body. It is a remote spot,
and for anyone inclined to melancholy it would be
a hard place in which to live, but I am always
happy in the mountains, and so anticipate the fu¬
ture with pleasure. Just where the houses stand
the outlook is restricted, but a short walk brings
you to the bridge, where the view widens and the
sides of the mountains, in certain lights, take on
the coloring of beautiful old tapestries.
Just before supper, night before last, Edith and
I walked to the kurdet (spring) down our valley,
passing on the way lovely wild flowers, gladioli,
batchelor buttons, forget-me-nots and other kinds,
the names of which I do not know. The garden is
full of beauty and fragrance. Such roses you
never saw, pink, white and a wonderful yellow.
May Twenty-fifth
When you think that I have only twice, in the
fifteen days that I have been in Hadjin, stepped
outside of the compound gate, you might wonder
that I have anything to write. The fact is that I
could write for hours and then not have exhausted
anyone but the recipients of my letters, so interest¬
ing are the new experiences to me.
For
[31]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
For instance, I am sure it is worth while to
learn the way to make a cow let down her milk
readily. You must tie the calf to the right front
foot of the mother, and she, seeing her offspring, is
ready to accommodate the milker. Should the calf
die, that need make no difference, for the skin is
stuffed and tied to the cow and the result is the
same.
We have a new calf on the "estate," born less
than twelve hours ago, and I have just taken its
picture as one of the girls stood holding it in her
arms. Then there are three puppies, Enver,
Talaat and Djemal, the children having named
them. We think it is a little hard on the puppies,
but in Turkey dogs are rather despised and it is a
pleasing form of retaliation now to name dogs for
Turks. I was told of a little refugee in Fort Said,
who was happy in having named his canine Mo¬
hammed.
We have been having almost constant rain for
a week and the shepherds have had to bring the
flock down from the mountain for a night or two
not to be drowned out, so in the early morning I
am wakened by the bleating of the goats and sheep,
the lowing of the cows and the braying of the
donkey. Just as they leave and quiet reigns, Akabe
knocks, coming to build a fire and to bring my hot
water, and so the day begins.
It is a strange feeling to be as absolutely cut
off from the world as we are. Stories drift in to
us
[32]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
US but how reliable they are we never know. We
have been told of terrible suffering among the
Turks, refugees from Erzroom, on the Shar plain
not far from here. The Armenian who told about
it said that, even though he was an Armenian, his
heart bled for them as he saw them, almost naked,
and eating grass. They are not to blame ; they are
just villagers driven out when the Russians came
to Erzroom, and they should have some help if it
is possible.
In the unoccupied regions the situation is acute,
for the Turks, being responsible to no one, are
threatening the Christians with total extermina¬
tion. This is what we hear about the Sivas vila¬
yet. Really, we are in a very peaceful section our¬
selves.
May Thirtieth
My work goes on increasing in scope. Yester¬
day Miss Hagopian and I went to the weaving
factory to see how the man in charge was progress¬
ing in getting the looms in order. A good many
years ago, Djemal Pasha gave some financial help
in establishing the factory, but during the war it
was not kept up and it is in a bad state of repair.
Our relief cloth from Adana has almost given out
and, although we shall have material of our own
weaving before long, we need some right now.
The other day a small child, an orphan, was
brought to us for clothing. She had been with a
woman
[33]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
woman whose mind was deranged and who had
not treated the child kindly. She was a dear little
thing, but she appeared frightened. I gave ma¬
terial for an undershirt and drawers and gingham
for a dress, and arranged with a woman to make
her clothes, wash her and bring her back. This
happened very early in the morning and that same
night, Elmas, whose name means diamond, was re¬
turned, clothed and clean.
We board her with our gate woman and she
comes to kindergarten. In the three days since we
took her she is a changed little girl. The tiny
thing spins beautifully and she is too dear as she
stands by Altoon, the gatekeeper, and twirls the
wool as deftly as a grown woman, looking up with
a shy little smile from time to time. We are
puzzled to find work for all who come to our gate.
At present we have some stone wall building go¬
ing on but as cloth is what is wanted in payment,
and cloth is what we lack, we hardly know how
to turn.
June Second
I am writing this at the close of a busy after¬
noon of work with the women who came for goat's
hair and wool. We now have a mob Monday and
Thursday afternoons, all wild for material to spin,
and it was hard to turn them away when it gave
out.
There
[34]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
There have been so many pitiful cases today—
one was a girl frightfully disfigured by tattoo
marks on her face, put on when she was held by
the Arabs, and a man brought his sister whom he
had rescued from some Circassians. The three
were in rags, and sick. I must go to the kitchen
now, for I have undertaken to do the cooking for
the Americans. There used to be a good Armen¬
ian cook for the missionaries, but Kevork was
killed at the time of the deportations and so many
who have returned from exile are diseased that we
don't dare to try one. Two of the older girls, Elisa
and Leah, do the washing up and are perfectly
willing, but I do the main cooking.
June Tenth
Word has come that Miss McLean is to go to
Talas and Miss Super, who is in Adana, is to come
here. Miss McLean does not want to leave, and
we shall miss her dreadfully. Probably Miss
Vaughan will go at the same time, making the
journey to Constantinople and to America by way
of Talas. Mr. McFarland of Mersine is coming
with Miss Super and he will stay and help us for
some weeks.
Yesterday morning quantities of new women
came for wool and there was no let-up from quar¬
ter of eight until twelve. Miss Hagopian inter¬
prets, Oriort Ardzat keeps the books, and there is
a small girl, Gulania, who fetches and carries.
If
[35]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
If I could train my nose not to smell when I
don't want it to I would be thankful. You can't im¬
agine the odors of such a mass of unwashed people,
clothed in rags which they can't change because
they have nothing else. Yesterday morning, I con¬
ceived a plan which mitigates the annoyance to a
degree. I have a table just outside the front door,
which is sheltered by the porch above, and Miss
Hagopian and I sit there to receive the women.
They are let in at the gate of the compound in
groups of ten by Altoon—that is, when she attends
to her job—and come down the path and through
another gate and on to us.
They crowded so close, each one anxious to get
ahead of someone else, that it was nauseating, so I
sent Gulania for a piece of chalk and, drawing a
line across the stone walk about four feet from us,
I announced that as the deadline and no one was to
step over it.
The women took it in very good part and when
anyone inadvertently disregarded the danger zone,
I assure you Gulania quickly advised her of it.
Today we had over a hundred women and yes¬
terday there were more than one hundred and fifty.
Some came for material to spin and others to turn
in the thread and either be paid in money or cloth.
We are short of cloth for the moment and some
prefer to wait for it.
The orphans are always with us and they pre¬
sent an ever-increasing problem. The exiles are
steadily
[36]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
Steadily returning and where they are to be housed,
with most of Hadjin in ruins, I can't imagine.
Children with no one to care for them are sleeping
on the ground wherever they can. They have
nothing to sleep on and nothing to cover them.
This may be endured in the summer but when
winter comes what are we to do?
June Fifteenth
We had such a beautiful day yesterday that I
am still feeling the happy effect Edith has been
longing to get out of town for a little change but
I hadn't realized how much we needed it. There
has been talk of going to the vineyard which be¬
longs to the Mennonites but which has been cared
for by Miss Vaughan since they left their orphan¬
age at the beginning of the war.
Our road took us down through Hadjin and
then up on the side of the mountain across from the
city. It was a beautiful ride, so wild and pictur¬
esque, past little waterfalls and fields of wild dow¬
ers—bright patches of color. The poppies bloom
on Flanders fields, but they also blossom red on
Hadjin hills. They are big and glorious.
The color revived our spirits. There was a
flower, I don't know its name, which gives the
effect in the distance of purple heather. We saw
many a nodding asphodel, but the poets have given
it a fame that it hardly deserves. Lavender candy¬
tuft was abundant as well as wild mignonette.
Arrived
[37]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
Arrived at our destination, we sat on the porch
of one of the buildings and ate our luncheon and
finished by picking great bunches of cherries for
dessert. Miss Vaughan wanted to see, before leav¬
ing, that the caretaker was faithful to his charge.
Altogether, it was a refreshing half day and we
came back ready for the fray. We were further
cheered by finding letters with the good news that
Miss Small, who is in Adana, is to be lent to us
for several months and she will come with Miss
Super.
June Eighteenth
Night before last, there was an engagement
party for one of the girls in the school. In Turkey,
this is almost as binding as the marriage, and the
priests conduct the affair. The bride-to-be is a Gre¬
gorian. The assembly room of the school was filled
with friends of the bride and groom. The con¬
tracting parties sat in front of the two priests and
preserved through the entire time—two hours—
a hangdog expression, never once glancing at each
other. The priests gave some kind of advice and
chanted, then followed national songs and some
impromptu speeches.
Refreshments were passed to everyone—glasses
of a fruit syrup and a roasted grain called leb
lebbies. The great difficulty was that there were
several hundred people present and only a dozen
glasses
[38]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
glasses. This necessitated taking the glasses out
for refilling, so that you can appreciate it was
rather prolonged. One of the oustas (foreman)
who is in charge of my gang of stone workers,
acted as waiter and I thought he would be too ex¬
hausted to be of any service to relief work the next
day.
By the way, I have inaugurated a change in
the method of paying the workers. The ousta has
always called the men first, in true Oriental style,
and the women have had their turn when their
betters had been attended to. I announced yester¬
day that from that time on I would begin with the
women. He was a little surprised, but for the first
time in their lives, these Hadjin women stepped in
front of the men.
June Twenty-third
Miss Vaughan and Miss McLean got off last
Friday with Mr. Fowle, who had come from
Talas to escort them, and the following day the
three we were expecting from Adana arrived.
It is very hot during the day. We had a rather
fearful time with the women this morning; such
a jam and so unmanageable. They got so uncon¬
trollable at last that we shut the compound gate
and sent them all packing. I trust they will have
learned their lesson by the next time. I got so
tired with it all that I could easily have cried.
There
[39]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
There are a great many Bible stories that will al¬
ways mean more to me in the future than they have
in the past. The multitude that pressed around
Christ may have been very like the one this morn¬
ing, so insistent, crowding about and laying hold
of our clothes. They were probably as unwashed
and evil smelling. One understands the need of
getting into a boat to escape the press, and the re¬
freshment of a garden. "And a man planted a
vineyard," that too, will ever have a meaning for
me. It is now, and must always have been, a com¬
fort to have a sweet, clean place to go to from the
towns and cities.
I wish the people could go to their vineyards
from Hadjin, but the Turks have destroyed most
of them. I don't see what is to happen if any more
people return. We are told that several hundred
men are waiting in Sis for opportunity to get here
and others have come as far as Adana. The
French promise aid, saying they are in charge, but
the promise ends with the saying.
This is the month of Ramazan, when all faith¬
ful Moslems fast from sunrise to sunset, not even
drinking water during that period. We are to
make calls on some of the Turkish families when
the fast closes with the feast of Bairam. There are
few Turks left in Hadjin, for now is their turn to
fear retaliation and many are leaving town. It
is an anxious time for everyone, when the peace
terms are not known and nothing is definite as to
what
[40]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
what will be included in Armenia. We have
heard that General Mudge of the British Army,
will, before long, visit Hadjin, and he will be our
guest at Hadjin Home. Shut off in our little cor¬
ner, we know nothing and perhaps he will give
us some news.
June Twenty-ninth
We are having excessive heat and it is difficult
after our noon dinner to do anything but rest for
a time. Fortunately, the nights are deliciously
cool and breezy so that I awake refreshed. The
mornings are not bad, it is only the afternoons that
are hard. The spinning women now number
nearly five hundred and, in spite of all our plan¬
ning, the mob is difficult to manage. We have a
new ticket system which will go into force tomor¬
row by which we shall have only one hundred
women in a morning. Of course, when we get to
our limit of days and tickets we can take no more
women.
The other day, in answer to my urgent request
for material, three camel loads came from Adana.
In addition to this we had two donkey loads aside
from what our travelers brought when they came
last Saturday so you see we can meet the demand
for cloth.
To change the subject, have you ever seen the
pomegranate bush in blossom? It is such a won-
wonderful
[41]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
derful sight with its glorious scarlet flowers. From
my bed on the veranda, I can see a flaming bush
and it rejoices my soul. There are some very
primitive beehives in the window of a building
below my porch and during the day there is a con¬
stant loud humming. It is the duty of some of the
small children to act as "bekjis" (watchers) for
the bees. They must be on guard and, when the
bees show that they are going to swarm, the chil¬
dren must, following the native custom, clap with
stones to help the bees to settle and then report
where they are. In the early morning when I
wake and it is still cool the bees are quiet. I look
out on the mountains that keep the sun away until
almost seven, although if I turn, I can see some
peaks touched with sunshine. Presently I hear a
step and know it is the Greek girl Barteme going
with her pail to milk the goats. She passes along
the stony path followed by Patsy, the big fluffy
yellow sheep dog, the one that stays here to guard
us at night, and going out through the Marash
gate presently reappears on the threadlike path
that winds up to the shepherds' huts. When I lie
in bed at night sometimes I hear the shepherds
singing the strange sad tunes they love.
This morning two donkeys had a playful time
beneath my sleeping porch cavorting around in the
most amusing manner. Cherries are spread out on
a nearby roof where, sprinkled with ashes, they
are drying for next winter's use.
July
[42]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
July Third
This has been our day for especially interview¬
ing orphans and helpless and we had plenty to see
to this morning. The Mennonite buildings are be¬
ing opened for a temporary home for boys and
the upper factory building will be in readiness for
girls and small boys in another day. As far as we
can, we try to have children boarded with relatives
or people who will take them in, for our capacity
is exceedingly limited. We, of course, pay for
their food.
July Fourth
Ramazan did not end on Sunday as was ex¬
pected, for word did not come saying that the new
moon had been sworn to by three people, so we
could not make the calls until Tuesday. Edith,
Miss Hagopian and I started a little before nine
and were gone until noon. First, we went to the
house of the kaimakam to call on his wife. The
entrance in one of the poor streets was very unim-
posing and we climbed two flights of rickety stairs
to be greeted by the kaimakam himself, who
seemed hardly ready for callers as he was in a kind
of loose garment which serves for both a night
gown and a dressing gown when in the house. We
were ushered into the reception room, a bare apart¬
ment with a raised seat the length of the side of the
room and called the "sirdar." The kaimakam's
'wife
[43]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
wife, who presently came in, was a sweet woman
with a great deal of poise. Soon Turkish delight
and cigarettes were brought in and passed. We
nibbled the candy and shortly after brought our
visit to a close. Next, we went to the house of the
civil judge (there is a civil and a religious judge
it appears), our calls being arranged to begin
with the greatest and then go down the scale. This
time we found, on entering the front door, that we
were in the stable and it was necessary to go up
a stairway to get into the house proper.
It was interesting to see the horse tied to a
beam and have the stable odor follow us up. The
judge was not at home, or did not appear, but we
were received by the wife and daughter and some
friend or retainer of the family. The kaimakam's
wife had on a black satin dress, but the wife of
the judge wore a funny loose gown, her hair was
in two braids and her feet were bare. We, as
always, sat on the sirdar and this time the refresh¬
ments were little white candies and Turkish coffee
served in the usual tiny cups. The "family friend"
remarked, looking at us, "They are all girls," and
the wife replied, "Yes, but they have brains, they
are smart, they are not like us."
When we were calling at the home of another
Turk, a woman came in who is the mother-in-law
of the man who was kaimakam when we came to
Hadjin. This man has been negotiating for a
young
[44]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
young Circassian girl for wife number two, and
the present wife, who is very attractive, is terribly
unhappy. The man has lately been called to Sis
to make an accounting of money to a French
official. This has necessitated the holding off of
his intended courtship and the mother-in-law
evidently considers it an act of providence for she
remarked, 'The Lord cleans the rice well."
Later
We really are doing a big work, and when I
consider our small force, it seems remarkable. At
times, when I have been looking at the sad sights,
I feel depressed hut I have to think that at least
what we are able to do is better than nothing.
I never saw such rags; rags patched with rags,
and the poor diseased bodies almost make you sick.
Diseases that we speak of under our breath in our
country are common here and the people who have
two good eyes are fortunate.
The great thing is to help the people and at the
same time not let them lose their self respect. We
are condemned by many because we refuse to give
money as generously as they think we might, hut
we have to do what we know is right. When I
get discouraged I look at the little card Miss
Vaughan gave me just before she left. It says—
"God will not send thee into the woods to fell an
oak with a penknife. When He calls thee to do
work
[45]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
work thou hast never done, He will give thee
strength thou hast never had."
July Fifth
While I was busy with the Saturday's baking,
Miss Small came into the kitchen to tell me the
news. The Armenians have been anxious to have
the French representative at Sis visit Hadjin, be¬
lieving that if conditions here were understood,
help would be given toward the rebuilding of the
city. Promises to come have been frequent but
they have had no fulfillment, so when it was re¬
ported the other day that the arrival was imminent,
we had no faith.
Now, definite word has come that General
Mudge of the British army, who is the highest
military official in Cilicia and Colonel de Piepape,
who is at the head of the civil administration, with
their aides and the Sis captain will come to Had¬
jin next Wednesday. We are the natural ones to
entertain them but, with our limited room and
inadequate equipment, it will be no easy task. We
shall give up this house where I am, to our guests
and crowd ourselves into the main building. They
will bring soldiers with them but they will have to
sleep in the open and be fed from the school
kitchen.
July
[46]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
July Twelfth
At last we can breathe easily. They have come,
they have seen, and to quote General Mudge,
"Hadjin is effectively occupied." We had two
most difficult days. The army of occupation eats
off the country and we found the food problem
none too simple. There has been no replenishing
of tableware since long before the war and our
stock is low. We had to be blind to nicks, cracks
and mismatches, and hold ourselves so superior to
lacks of all kinds that tea could be poured from a
pot with a broken spout, and the one who served
not lose her poise. Seventeen soldiers had to be
cared for and the teacher in charge nearly lost her
mind. The officers were most appreciative and, in
spite of the somewhat staggering situation in
which we were placed, we enjoyed the visit. We
learned something of the peace terms of which we
had heard nothing.
At tea time, after a session at the Government
House, General Mudge in speaking of the un¬
settled state of the country, said that something that
had happened that morning was typical of this
kind of a visit—a bandit who had been defying
everyone came into the Konak (Government
House) and gave himself up. A few weeks ago
there was a good deal of danger of an uprising of
the Turks in the region not far from here but noth¬
ing happened. At that time, in Adana, a massacre
scare
[47]
LETTERS FROM CIL I CIA
scare was in the air but the general said he re¬
marked to some Turks that the English were not
used to being massacred and it would not be wise
to try anything of the kind.
The second and last night of their stay, General
Mudge, on returning from a dinner given for the
party at the Government House, was slightly in¬
jured when his horse slipped on a bad bit of road.
The colonel's aide. Lieutenant de Larrard, in try¬
ing to help, was kicked by one of the horses and,
although not seriously hurt, had to stay behind
when the others went back to Adana.
I chance to be the only one who speaks French,
quite haltingly I admit, and since the lieutenant
speaks no word of English, I feel called upon to
visit with him when I can get a moment. He is
an agreeable young fellow and most grateful for
Miss Super's care and our thought of him. He
was at the front all through the war and this is his
first accident.
Edith and Mr, McFarland go to the village
of Shar next week to investigate conditions there
and by the time of their return our "blessé" may
have joined his colonel.
July Seventeenth
And so the days go by. We are harvesting
now and it is an interesting sight to see the ancient
Bible manner of doing it. The barley is trodden
out
[48]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
out, not by oxen it is true, but in a primitive fash¬
ion by a horse and a kind of sled. Then it is
thrown into the air by men with funny big forks
and winnowed by the wind and later the women
sift the grain and put it away in the house. We,
that is the household, are busy getting boulgour
(wheat) ready for the winter. The wheat is
washed, boiled and then picked over by hand.
Boulgour pilaf is exceedingly good. It is boiled
with a little water and well seasoned, and the re¬
sult is, I think, superior to rice. It comes in well
in potato famine.
I go down to the cellar and look at our stores,
hoping for an inspiration, and sometimes I really
wonder how a meal is to be evolved. It is an ad¬
venture if you can look at it in that light and it
makes you feel triumphant when a satisfactory re¬
past is produced.
Saying "produced" makes me think of some¬
thing which amuses me much. Each girl in the
household is responsible for some part of the work
or, perhaps you would say, the needs of the house.
For example, I look at the egg supply and find it
is low. We need eggs—Navart is responsible for
eggs, therefore she must produce them. Make a
laundry list if you choose, but if you do or do not,
your room girl is responsible for your clothes and,
if some article is lacking when the laundry is re¬
turned, she must produce it. Miss McLean missed
a petticoat
[49]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
a petticoat and it could not be found. Edith said
Maritsa must produce it and it was produced after
a search. For several days wood was low and there
was difficulty with the fire. The small girls in the
interim, while the donkey loads did not appear,
had to produce wood from somewhere, which
meant gathering brush and twigs wherever they
could he found. Every day something amusing
happens so that I say with our friend R. L. S.
"The world is so full of a number of things that
we should all he as happy as kings," or something
like that.
After supper we all sat on the veranda of the
other house for a time, watching the stars come
out. The nights are very beautiful here. Having
invited the lieutenant to sit with us, it was impos¬
sible to leave, at least for me. The others went
one by one hut I thought I should have to stay on
forever and my French was going rather lame. I
was relieved when he took his departure.
Miss Super is working too hard. This morn¬
ing, she went down to the city before five o'clock
to see a woman who has malaria. We are urging
her to give up outside calls for she will he ill her¬
self before she knows it. She is absolutely ab¬
sorbed in her profession and thinks of nothing else.
July Eighteenth
Edith and Mr. McFarland arrived shortly
before noon and reported a successful but tiring
trip
[SO]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
trip. The man with the load did not catch up with
them the first night and they had to sleep in a
native house and were eaten alive. Furthermore,
they had to accept the hospitality of the people of
both Shar and Roomloo in the line of food and it
was hard.
July Twentieth
We breathed a sigh of relief when the horse of
our Frenchman disappeared down the road. We
didn't realize how exhausted we were until Lieu¬
tenant de Larrard had gone.
I am writing this after our supper and as I
look out of my window I can see the little orphan
girls from the factory building carrying their even¬
ing meal back to their home. They come up here
for their food as it is too complicated to have it
cooked where they live and there is a great scarcity
of cooking dishes and utensils. Elmas has been
removed to the orphanage for we found she was
not having proper care where she was. We have
the temporary orphanage for the boys at Surp Sar-
kis, the Mennonite property the other side of the
city. A young man, who used to be in an orphan¬
age conducted by this same order, has charge of
the boys and is doing very satisfactory work.
Bread is sent from this house three times a week
and they have little else. As Edith says, "All we
can offer is an opportunity to be clean, enough to
eat and a chance to work."
We
[51]
LETTERS FROM CI LICIA
We are feeling happy over the coming of
Minas Efifendi. He is an able man who served the
Mennonites at first and, when they left at the be¬
ginning of the war, he came to the missionaries
here. He combines both ability and absolute hon¬
esty. He was sent into exile and went the way to
Der Zor, but in some way escaped death and was
in Mosul when the British came in. They, recog¬
nizing his ability, gave him responsibilities. Im¬
mense granaries, that the Turks had filled and
expected to have for their own use, were by the
English turned over to the Armenians and much of
the management of this given into the hands of
Minas Effendi. Edith feels as if a load had been
taken from her shoulders for many things we have
wanted to do can be managed now. This man
understands about weaving and we shall ask him to
look into the matter and see what he can suggest.
He had an offer in Adana that would have paid
him well but he chose to come back here to serve
the missionaries. He says that in time of exile
the letters of Miss Vaughan and the aid given by
the missionaries, were what helped him through
his trials.
Yesterday while it was piping hot and I was
resting in my room, word was brought that some
Moslem ladies had called, so I had to dress and go
over. They were the wife of the kadi, her daughter
and a servant who sat in the room all of the time.
You
[52]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
You recall we went to their home to see them at
the time of the feast of Bairam. The wife is a
very dramatic woman and it was amusing to watch
her as she talked. You know how these people
dread the "evil eye," In referring to her son, she
said, "He speaks six languages—may God remove
the curse,"
I wish I knew many of the very sweet expres¬
sions the people have. If you like a person and
feel sympathetic you can say that your heart fits
their's. Little Rebekah who was brought to us
because her mother, rescued from the Turks, had
found employment with a family where the little
girl could not be taken, spent the first weeks in
crying. One of the other children said, "Why do
you cry, don't you like us?" Rebekah replied, "Oh
yes, my blood boils to you but just the same, I want
my mother," She is quite content now and seems
perfectly happy. The children play with the most
unique dolls I ever saw which they have made out
of old scraps.
The political situation is so unsettled that the
people hardly know what to do. There is any
amount of French propaganda which means that
a decidedly anti-American attitude is being fost¬
ered, Everything possible is said that will detract
from our reputation. Since the French are really,
up to the present, doing nothing for the popula¬
tion, and we are doing all that is being done to help,
it
[S3]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
it is odd. The condition of the people in the city is
terrible and I wish the French would do something
beside talk.
July Thirtieth
I am feeling rather desperate today. The num¬
ber of orphans is growing and our appropriation
has been cut. The transportation of supplies from
Adana is exceedingly expensive as everything has
to be loaded on pack animals. It is hard for any¬
one to realize the difficulties of relief work in so
isolated a place as Hadjin. Most units can use
motor trucks. There is nothing to be purchased in
the city, for to quote Edith, "It is picked as clean
as a crow can pick it."
August First
Yesterday we went to a wedding in the city. I
always hate to have to go into the dirt, but it was
considered the proper thing to do, as the family
were anxious to have the Americans present. Only
Edith, Miss Small and I went. The hour given
was noon but Edith said that didn't make any dif¬
ference for they wouldn't know exactly when it
was noon and they would be sure to be late. So we
ate at the usual time—twelve—and left here at one.
When we got to the place we had to climb up to
the top floor of a tall ramshackle house filled with
nauseating
[54]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
nauseating odors. This was the house where the
groom lived or rather where he had a room or two.
No one can have more than that with the terrible
over crowding there is. We were taken into the
salaam luk (reception room) and ofifered refresh¬
ment which was simply a glass of a sweet syrup.
They seemed so nonchalant about everything, not
knowing whether the bride had gone to the school
where the ceremony was to take place or not, that
after about half an hour, it was suggested that we
might go to the school (Gregorian) and probably
she would arrive before long. The parents seemed
to have little to do with the affair. When we ar¬
rived at the building there was no sign of prepara¬
tion; indeed, some carpenters were at work and as
we came in they went right on. Other people fol¬
lowed and the large room began to fill. The com¬
pany was democratic in character ; a few comfort¬
ably dressed people and all down the scale to the
worst looking ragged ones you ever saw. Finally
the bride and groom put in an appearance, each
escorted by the next of kin. They first took their
places in front of the rostrum but one of the four
priests decided he preferred to have them on the
platform and so up they went.
The audience was quite unconcerned and kept
up a steady talk that was almost deafening. The
priests were the shabbiest of the shabby and the
service was far from impressive. This part was
not
[55]
LETTERS FROM GILI CIA
not over until quarter of four. We tried to get out
as quickly as possible to avoid getting into the
crowd returning to the house but all in vain. In
an unlucky moment I thought I would try a snap
shot and the people got the idea and formed in
solid ranks, all expecting to be in it. Of course I
could do nothing but I snapped the camera to
satisfy them. We were in the midst of the crowd
and it was almost impossible to breathe. We held
our handkerchiefs to our noses and pressed on.
Fortunately, there was a choice of roads and the
company took the highway and we skirted down
another path. We reached the house in advance,
but had to wait for the wedding party because a
special ceremony had to be performed before any¬
one could go into the house. A boy stood holding
a goat by a rope and when the bride and groom
came to the house a man stepped forward and,
tripping up the goat and turning it on its back, slit
its throat.
The blood flowed down the street and the bride
and groom walked over it into the house. This is
the common custom but if a goat is too expensive,
jars can be broken. We made our way upstairs
through the evil smelling crowd and were seated
in the room especially for the women. The best
room is kept for the men, of course. After a few
minutes, Edith said we could congratulate the
bride and go. She stood in a room shaking hands
with
[56]
LETTERS FROM CI LICIA
with the people and the groom stood in another
room to receive. As we went down the stairs they
were skinning the poor goat. With the greatest
difficulty we managed to avoid stepping into the
blood which had reddened the street. We got home
about five o'clock. * » *
Miss Small is very ingenious in her work. She
has almost nothing to work with but she manages
in some way to keep things going. You can't think
how hard pressed we are for common things. Sew¬
ing thread has about given out and we send to
Derindje but nothing comes. Miss Small has to
find employment for the girls and she makes some¬
thing of really nothing. You know I had some old
muslin underwear that I expected to use a few
times and throw away. I have taken the good parts
and have made twenty squares the size for hand¬
kerchiefs and Miss Small has had the girls, the
little ones, make them. Some are hemstitched and
two of them have a little lace edging that Miss
Small ripped from an old garment of her own. She
has the faculty for seeing possibilities in the most
unpromising things. Her father was a sea captain
and one brother, when he writes to her, sometimes
says when he imagines she needs bracing up, "Re¬
member your father walked the quarter deck."
I must not forget that five thirty comes right
along every morning whether I go to bed early or
not, and so "good-night."
August
[57]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
August Seventh
Garabed Effendi came to call this afternoon—
I forget you do not know who he is, hut he is the
telegrapher in the city and a good friend to the
Americans. He was all excitement, for he is sure
the word that has come to him is correct, that
America is to take the mandate for Armenia and
that Cilicia is to he included in the territory. We
couldn't ask anything better hut we don't dare to
he so optimistic as to believe it yet.
Today, Gulania, my little helper, suddenly left
the porch where we were working and returned
with a present for me, an elephant made by herself.
It is screamingly funny. She made it out of cloth
and covered it with some of the wool that is being
made ready for the spinners. It is odd enough to
have an elephant with wool hut this one has, in
addition, a flowing tail. The other day, some of the
children made two dolls, one for me and one for
Miss Small.
August Twelfth
We are having delightfully cool weather now,
especially nights and mornings and, since our pic¬
nic yesterday, life seems more bearable. I had not
been outside of the compound for days and the
change was good for all of us. Edith proposed
that we have our supper at the chatak, the spring
on the Shar road. We rode through Hadjin and
out
[S8]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
out into the country that was altogether lovely. We
were much amused to have a gendarme sent by the
government to protect us. He was at least pic¬
turesque in his uniform with his gun slung over
his shoulder but at such an angle that it looked to
me as if, should he accidentally hit the trigger, I
would be shot in the eye.
The colors of the flowers now seem to be mostly
purple and lavender. There is the most gorgeous
kind of thistle, very tall with big spikey purple
balls, two or more inches across. Wild clematis
looks like white mist. When we reached the
chatak we dismounted and carried our supper up
to eat it on the big rock near the gushing water.
The evening lights were beautiful and, as the sun
set, the mountain peaks were touched with a real
Alpine glow. We started for home soon after our
supper and it was dark when we got back to town.
An oriental city is more picturesque at a distance
than near to and certainly this is true of Hadjin.
The odors as we entered the narrow streets were
horrible and, as you know, perfectly indescribable.
The ruined condition looks more interesting at
night and I said to Edith as we rode into the city
together—"One could almost imagine this was
Pompeii and this the House of Glaucus that we are
passing." This was especially true as we turned
a corner and the full moon came suddenly into
view. Hadjin clings to the rock like a limpet and
although a large part of the houses are gone,
enough
[59]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
enough remain to make a wonderful picture in the
moonlight. Edith remarked that, as far as she
knows, Hadjin is the one mission station now that
can only be reached on horseback. For a long time
there were others but by degrees either the railroad
has reached them or roads possible for automobiles
have made communication easy.
August Twenty-first
Mr. McFarland has been planning to leave
soon to go to Kharney, and now word comes that
Miss Small is needed at that orphanage, too. We
are desolated.
We have a few little apple trees in our lower
vineyard but we shall never have any ripe fruit, for
the natives pick it off before it reaches any size.
Ezekiel said, "The fathers have eaten sour grapes
and the children's teeth are set on edge." This
might be written of Cilicia. The people eat grapes
and all fruit when it is absolutely green or just
turned ; at least they like it that way very much.
This morning, as I was sitting, not at the receipt
of custom exactly but at the receipt of orphans
and helpless, two of the little girls from the sewing
class came to me with new pink all-over aprons
and, standing before me, took my hand and kissed
it, then put it to their foreheads and kissed it again.
It is something which I always discourage in the
women but in the tiny children, it is sweet. I was
being thanked for the new clothes. I really had
no
[60]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
no part in the making, but I am one of the Ameri¬
cans responsible for the new order, so I come in
for my share of gratitude.
We are back from supper on the hillside, the
farewell party for Mr. McFarland and Miss
Small. It was a struggle up to the height. At
some places the path seemed to be absolutely per¬
pendicular and now, with the dry weather we have
been having, exceedingly slippery. It was a pretty
sight to see the girls on ahead, picturesque in their
pinkey-red aprons. When we reached the level
space, we sat down to rest on rugs carried up on
the back of a tiny donkey that was also laden with
two copper water jugs. Our supper consisted of
native bread, baked rather thin and like a big pan¬
cake, covered with a kind of chopped meat and
called "leehmajoon." This we folded over on itself
making a sort of sandwich. We had youghoort
and finished off with grapes, brought from one of
the nearby villages where they ripen earlier than
here.
We sat and watched the flock come down from
higher up and exclaimed over the beauties, first of
"Haiyasdan," one of the young kids, and then be¬
came enthusiastic over "America." Before leaving,
some of us played drop the handkerchief with
the younger children and finished up with London
Bridge. It must have been a funny sight when we
came to the tug of war, for I (one of the teachers
and I made the bridge) had drawn the tiny chil-
children
[61]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
dren and they could just grasp my knees. How¬
ever, they clung like leaches and we won, although
in the end we were helped by some of the older
girls who came to our rescue. We reached home
in the gloaming.
As I was writing, there was a knock on my door
and when I said "Come in," Gulania and Siranoosh
appeared bearing in their hands gifts which con¬
sisted of a bed for the dolls and a dress and night¬
gown apiece. I wish you could see the things ; the
bed has a piece of window screen for springs and
the mattress is elaborately made. It is so sweet
that the children take it for granted that I am
really attached to the dolls. They are very earnest
about everything and arranged the "fil" (elephant)
so that he stood facing the right way to look at me.
September Fifth
I feel a little dizzy not knowing where I am.
The other day Matteos brought the word that we
were to return our postage stamps, for from now
on, we are not in Cilicia but Syria. I'm sure I
don't know what it means. In a short time we
probably will get things straightened out. Miss
Hagopian and I went to Shar a week ago today,
returning on Tuesday. I was too tired after the
trip to write any details and there have been quan¬
tities of afifairs to see to every minute since I got
back.
It
[62]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
It seems a long way to go back to last Friday
morning, so much has happened in the meantime.
It was a tremendously busy day for, on top of every¬
thing else, I had fruit to put up. It couldn't he
postponed and, as a result, I rushed like mad. We
left at half after three so that we could divide the
journey by going part way that day and reach Shar
the next afternoon. I had a horrid beast to ride
because Victor was lame. If there was any fault
my horse didn't have, I should like to know it.
When he wasn't kicking flies with his back feet he
was stumbling with his front ones. He was ugly
and tried to kick Miss Hagopian's horse so I
always had to stay behind and he had a slow walk
and a fearfully hard trot. You may think that the
trip was anything but pleasant but I had a really
wonderful time and I am keen for next week when
we go on a longer journey.
Returning now to our Shar expedition; we
rode past the chatak where you recall we had our
supper not many weeks ago. We planned to go to
a spring three hours' ride from Hadjin and sleep
out in the open. Our party consisted of Miss
Hagopian and myself, accompanied by our "cot-
turje" (man for the pack animals) and a gendarme.
We had two pack animals for, aside from our own
impedimenta, we carried cloth for Shar with
which to pay the wool workers if they preferred
that to money. It was hot when we started but it
gets cool as the sun sets and we had a delightful
ride
[63]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
ride, arriving at our camping place just as it was
getting dark. The gendarme was afraid to go to
the spring for he said, "There is no human being
there," so we turned off the road and going along
where I could see no path, reached some shepherds'
tents. We were greeted with the hospitality that
is so universal in the orient and urged to share
their tents. We declined the courtesy and, riding
a little further on, unrolled our traveling beds as
quickly as we could. Some of the men arranged
tree branches in the ground in such a way that our
nets could be hung over our beds and we were as
cozy as you please. The horses were picketed and
we were ready to receive calls from the shepherds.
They had all come back from exile and were
gathering their possessions together.
They brought us youghoort, and one man said,
"When I was in the desert and hungry I said if I
ever get back to the black tent, I will offer yough¬
oort to every passer by." All their tents are made
of black goat's hair as I may have told you. We
couldn't undress much in the open but it was
delightful to lie out under the stars and see the
lights from the fires near the tents. Our two men
slept on the ground at the end of our beds, and the
horses munched grass close to us. As soon as it was
light we were up and, after drinking hot goat's
milk brought by the shepherds, we started on our
journey. To get back to the regular road, we
forded streams and went by rocky paths that the
gendarme
[64]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
gendarme knew. I wish it was possible for me to
describe the beauties of this country. Such skies
I never saw. The colors of the mountains change
with the shifting light and I don't know when they
are most beautiful, whether when they are a pearly
pinky gray or when they have all the tones of an
amethyst. After a time we came out on the Shar
plain and it was a delightful change after the
months of being shut in so close. We had left the
shepherds at six and by ten we came to Hosta
Hanna, a Turkish village where many Armenians
have property.
This is harvest time and the threshing floors
are a unique sight. We know a man who is here
attending to the property of his wife and he came
out to welcome us and invite us to stop on our
return trip. Miss Hagopian has a Moslem uncle
at Bolat, a Circassian village on our road, and it
was here that we stopped and had a picnic lunch¬
eon, making soup or rather heating tomato soup
on the sterno. The nice uncle came and sat with
us while we ate and then we went to his house. He
really is a delightful man although it seemed a bit
strange to meet his wife who is wife number two
and was picked out for him by Miss Hagopian's
aunt, wife number one. The first wife now lives
with a married daughter in another place, and this
one is a Circassian and a sweet woman. We were
served with tea in the Russian style, for the Cir¬
cassians do many things like the Russians.
There
[65]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
There was one very unusual thing which we
saw on this afternoon—a whirlwind. As we were
riding along the cotturje called to us to look back
and, far off, we saw a thin column of red dust
reaching from the ground to the sky. The plain
is very beautiful and in the spring it must be even
more wonderful when a great variety of flowers
are in bloom. We saw four different kinds of
thistles, one variety almost five feet tall and with
branches that made me think of branched candle¬
sticks. There was a yellow everlasting and a dear
little flower that grows in clumps and is quite fairy¬
like in structure, white and close to the ground,
that is used in making glue.
Shar is off from the plain, right in the moun¬
tains, but not so shut in as Hadjin. The situation
is lovely, on both sides of a rushing little river. It
was founded by the Romans several centuries
before Christ and was called Comana the Golden.
There were many large temples, making it one of
the Holy Places of Asia Minor, and at one time,
there were five thousand nuns there. For years it
was a ruin and no one built there until a little over
fifty years ago, when the Armenians constructed
Shar and used in their building much of the old
material. It is most interesting to see parts of col¬
umns and old capitals worked into the walls of
some of the houses. The Protestant church has
some of the best Corinthian capitals on its facade.
The Turks, after the people were deported,
'wrecked
[66]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
wrecked Shar to the best of their ability, not burn¬
ing it as they did Hadjin, but taking all the timber
they could to sell and wantonly destroying as much
of the two churches, Protestant and Gregorian, as
was possible. The Gregorian church is a complete
ruin, nothing but a part of the apse being left
standing, but the Protestant church can be put in
shape without much trouble. The flooring was
all taken out and the windows and the carving on
the beautiful capitals chipped off, but the building
itself is still in fairly good condition.
We were taken to a house that belongs to one
of our orphans here in Hadjin, Christina, who has
lost all of her family, all killed by the Turks. The
house was well wrecked but we had a large room
decidedly airy as the windows were all gone. I
looked anxiously for "invaders" but Miss Hago-
pian scorned my suggestions, saying we were safe
there. Of course, people crowded in to see us and
there was little opportunity for rest.
Gulania, who used to be in the Hadjin school
and who has recently come back from exile, was
there to take care of us, as well as Flora who was
Mrs. Haas's cook in Adana for several years. We
had plenty of fruit, delicious white mulberries,
plums and some very small apricots. We were
left to go to bed early, but what a night! There
was no question of other inhabitants. I thought I
should go mad before morning and there was noth¬
ing to do. I said to myself, "Whom the Lord
loveth
[67]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
loveth He chasteneth" and decided that I was very
much loved. I comforted myself, however, by
saying, "Sorrow endureth for the night, but joy
Cometh in the morning." Miss Hagopian said we
would sleep on the roof the next night. The next
day was Sunday and there was a service in the Pro¬
testant church conducted by the visiting Gregorian
priest and Miss Hagopian and I sat in the seats of
honor. There is no flooring left and the audience
sat on the ground, the women on one side and the
men on the other.
We sat on a short log covered with a rug, facing
the congregation. The seat was so low that my
back was nearly broken before the long service was
over. The people are exceedingly nonchalant,
especially the children, who wander in and wander
out as the fancy takes them. One small boy insisted,
in spite of the remonstrances of his older sister, in
raising his one garment above his head and dancing
a kind of pas seul before the altar. No one, not
even the priest, seemed perturbed by the episode.
From the service we went, in the company of one
of the Shar men and his wife, to see some of the
ruins. There is an interesting amphitheatre with
many of the tiers of seats still standing and groups
of columns indicating where the temples stood.
The temples were the principal buildings in this
old city. There is an elaborate doorway of one
still standing, but the fact that so much has been
used for building material accounts for the little
that
[68]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
that remains in situ. This man who went with us
told of exciting things that occurred at the time of
the Adana massacres in '95. He was one of the
eighty Armenians who successfully defended them¬
selves and their wives against five thousand Turks.
He showed us where they fought and said that at
the last they had to fire their guns, which were
ordinary hunting guns, with match heads as all
their caps were gone. The Turks had no idea that
they were nearly out of ammunition. His wife said
she had a long iron rod with which to defend her¬
self. It is thrilling to hear all these things at first
hand and on the spot.
In the afternoon the Protestants had a service
and Miss Hagopian and I took part. Afterward,
we all marched in procession, following the priest
to the ruins of the Gregorian church where there
was a short memorial service for those who had
died in the massacres and in exile. That night we
undressed in our room and then walked, in our
kimonos, down the street a door or two away and
slept in comfort on a neighbor's roof.
We had been told that there was a village not
far away where we could see some dancing; a Cir¬
cassian village where Gulania had friends.
The Circassians build very good villages and
usually whitewash the houses so the effect is pretty.
They are cleaner than the Turks. Everyone was
exceedingly cordial. We called at one of the rich¬
est homes and were shown the wedding finery of
some
£69]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
some of the daughters. The women wear very
picturesque costumes wi^h much silver jewelry.
Our dinner was served on a big copper tray—fried
chicken in a central dish with pieces of the native
bread arranged around the edge of the tray. Miss
Hagopian and I ate out of the same dish, but for¬
tunately we were the only ones served at that time,
the others eating later.
The dancing was postponed so long that I
began to feel desperate, realizing how far it was to
our stopping place for the night. Finally it began.
We sat on the sirdar and one of the men wet down
the earth floor with water, which was most desir¬
able for, in spite of this, toward the end, the dust
was terrible. The men stood on one side of the
room and the girls on the other, and to the accom¬
paniment of a kind of harmonicum, they danced
two by two ; not round dancing but something like
figures in a quadrille. At a certain point, guns
were fired out of the windows and, as I did not ex¬
pect this, it was a little startling. I was glad to see
it all but I shall survive if it is my only experience
of the kind. We got to Hosta Hanna when it was
almost dark and as it looked very much like rain,
we had to sleep indoors. The family gave up their
one room to us and we were very comfortable. In
the morning we had buffalo milk and native bread.
At Shar I had been introduced to kemuse, a most
delicious concoction. It is sheep's milk that has
been boiled with a little youghoort and is sweet,
not
[70]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
not unlike Devonshire cream. We reached home
early the next afternoon.
September Tenth
I am still in Hadjin although I supposed I
should be in one of the villages today. Sunday
afternoon, a telegram came from Dr. Chambers
saying that the Ebys and Miss Bredemas, the Men-
nonite missionaries, were in Adana and would start
for Hadjin on Tuesday. We were asked to send
seven animals, horses and mules, to Sis to meet
them. This called a halt to our trip, although for¬
tunately it is only a postponement, for we plan to
go next Monday. The Mennonite belongings,
which were cared for by Miss Vaughan, have been
taken to Surp Sarkis, and yesterday we went up to
see to the placing of the furniture to make it as
homelike as we could. We took the younger chil¬
dren for the day and they had a beautiful time.
The grapes are in their prime now and although
they are not plentiful this year, I am having my fill
and I enjoy the white variety. I wish you could
have seen little Rebekah and Gunesh when they
went up. Gunesh is lame and Rebekah is very tiny,
so it was counted too far for them to walk. We
put them in saddle bags and hung them across the
back of one of the horses and they traveled with
only their heads showing above the bags.
When we got back to the compound, we ob¬
served great excitement and wondered what it was
all
[71]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
all about. Upon reaching the gate, the puzzle
was solved. The girls had dressed dummies, which
were standing in a line to welcome us. They were
positively the cleverest things I ever saw. They
were supposed to represent diflferent girls, and they
were screamingly funny. There were seven and
there was an especial one for each of us—I being
presented with "Gunesh," who had for a hat an
enameled bowl. The bodies were made of sticks
of wood and then padded, and the faces were
stuffed out and features drawn on them in colored
chalks. We entered the yard carrying our special
charges and laughing so we could scarcely walk.
More amusing than anything else was the figure
that greeted us as we entered the sitting room. The
day before, we had a call from M. Thaillardat of
Sis, and there before us sat a wonderful replica
with crossed legs, upturned moustache and hand
raised in salute.
Monday I bought a riding horse and I hope
he will live up to the good things that are said of
him. I have named him Haiyasdan, which is the
name for Armenia. I find the natives are rather
pleased with my choice. It is a pretty word as the
people pronounce it. I shall let my horse rest to
get ready for the village trip next week, but I am
going with Edith to meet the incoming Mennon-
ites on Friday. We shall entertain them over Sun¬
day, but after that they probably will choose to go
to
[72]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
to Surp Sarkis, where their furniture is now ar¬
ranged.
As you observe from the stamps, we are under
the Egyptian Expeditionary Force, and that means
Allenby. Go on addressing me just as you have,
for even if we aren't in Cilicia it won't make any
difference, and as soon as there is a new address
I will let you know.
September Twenty-fourth
I am sorry you have been distressed by rumors
of Turkish uprisings, for where I am there is ab¬
solutely no danger. Miss Hagopian says Adana
vilayet has always been the safest in. Turkey, and
Hadjin the safest city in the vilayet.
A week ago Monday we three started on our
trip to the villages. The morning was exceedingly
busy, for the Mennonites came here to receive
their Armenian friends, as it is so far to their com¬
pound. We were glad to have them, but we were
hurried in getting off. Having guests prolonged
the dinner hour; the cloth from the weaving fac¬
tory, which always has to be inspected, came late,
so that doing our best, we couldn't leave the com¬
pound until nearly four. Our plan was to go to a
place called Panluk for the first night, thus mak¬
ing the rather hard journey to Gerumse a little
easier. We went through the city and up the other
side of our "well." Hadjin is high, but we went
way
[73]
LETTERS FROM CI LICIA
way up to where we looked down on the houses.
The road was very steep and kept getting rougher
and rougher until there were only loose rocks and
our horses had to pick their path with care. I re¬
member, as a child, being greatly impressed by a
picture of General Israel Putnam escaping from
the British by riding his horse down some stone
steps. I don't consider that it was anything now—
what I accomplished on Haiyasdan was fully equal
to the general's exploit. I don't understand how
the animals kept their footing. Fortunately, I en¬
joyed it all. Starting so late, it began to get dark
before we sighted Panluk, and by seven o'clock it
was impossible to make out the path.
We rode along, soon becoming hopelessly lost.
There we were, with five horses on the mountain
side and not a light in sight. We plunged along
leading our mounts, not being able to see a yard
ahead. The horses acted finely, but it was no fun
to go sliding over rocks and sometimes falling
down. We came to an open place and I was for
camping there for the night. The others wanted
to go on, so we went, slipping and sliding down.
At last, when our case seemed desperate, we saw a
glimmer of lights far below. The catturje called
"Panluklu! Panluklu!" which means "People of
Panluk." No response came, but we pushed on.
Finally lights were seen coming nearer and some
Turkish children with pitch pine flares appeared.
I won't go into more details, but after following
several
[74]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
several wrong paths, we reached two or three
houses, not Panluk at all, but a place where we
could stay for the night. Everyone is cordial and
the nice old Turk was as friendly as could be. We
put our beds on the roof and by the light of burn¬
ing pine knots, started to get out our supper, for
which we were quite ready, as it was then nine
o'clock. To our dismay, we discovered that the
most important saddle bag had been left in Hadjin.
However, we managed for that meal and said we
would have to trust to luck for the rest of the trip.
The catturje went into great detail in telling the
old Turk about our adventure.
The Turk said, "Yes, I can see how you man¬
aged to get down the mountain, but how did you
manage to bring the lacking ones?" You know in
Turkey, women are referred to sometimes as asses
or donkeys, beasts of burden or the lacking ones.
I don't know which is the worst. We had a com¬
fortable night, and in the morning a man from one
of the other houses brought us hot milk, while our
kind host gave us delicious grapes, so we had a fine
breakfast. We started at seven, escorted by the
picturesque old Turk, who went all the way to
Panluk with us to show us the road, and it was an
hour's ride. We learned from a passerby that a
man with a saddle bag would meet us at Panluk,
so we knew that our oversight had been discovered
and the good people had managed to track us.
When
[75]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
When we arrived at the bridge at Panluk, there,
sure enough, was the man with a note from Al-
ethea. We hoped to reach Gerumse in the after¬
noon, but again we took a wrong turning and
finally arrived at six o'clock. Eleven hours in the
saddle is quite long.
Gerumse is picturesquely situated and is a vil¬
lage that has been occupied by Greeks since very
early times. The inhabitants were not exiled, but
they were preyed on by marauding Turks, and be¬
ing neither tillers of the soil nor an industrial
people, they are in a sad state. Some have small
gardens, but it is a hand to mouth existence that
they lead. There is an interesting family named
Savaidu. The father and mother can neither read
nor write but the children have been educated, all
of the daughters coming to Hadjin Home. One
of the sons is a minister in the United States, and
the eldest daughter graduated at Constantinople
College. The youngest daughter, Sophia, is now
in our school, and she is a dear young girl. This
family lives next to the church, and as that is
where we stayed, they looked after us with great
care.
We had our beds on a kind of platform and
dressed in one of the rooms, where we also ate.
Olympia, an older sister, cooked things in her
house and so we fared well. Liking all kinds of
native foods makes this kind of travel comfortable.
What I do find tiring is the constant presence of the
people
[76]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
people. As soon as you arrive they surround you
and you haven't even an opportunity to wash. This
time I took knitting and it was not so bad.
"Cracking the wheat" is a custom peculiar to
Gerumse, or perhaps to Greek villages, and we ar¬
rived in time to see it. A long hollow log is raised
somewhat from the ground and the whole wheat
poured in—then four people on either side stand
with big wooden mallets, and swinging them down,
each partner alternately, they sing songs. This is
to separate the chaff from the wheat. In the even¬
ing, young men stand on one side and girls on the
other. There were two places where they did the
cracking: one was directly under our sleeping
place. We were so tired that we went to sleep
while the work continued. The next morning we
interviewed orphans, both for the Near East Relief
and for Hadjin Home. There is a wonderful
spring called Jennet Punare (Spring of Heaven)
and we climbed to it for a drink. On our way back
to our stopping place we called on a family where
we were refreshed with some of the nice native
thin bread and delicious honey.
The road to Yerabakan, our next stopping
point, is wonderful. I had been told that the views
were remarkable, and the promise was more than
fulfilled. Much of the way we were on the edge
of the mountains, on paths so narrow that it was a
wonder that our horses could find foothold. Part
of the way was through pine forests and the air
was
[77]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
was sweet with the fragrance of the needles that
carpeted the path. We had marvelous views of
distant peaks and at one time had a glimpse of
the Amanus mountains. There was one beautiful
mountain called Ala Dagh, (Mighty Mountain),
so high it always has patches of snow on it. With
a Gerumse man for guide, we had no difficulty
about the road. Just before we got to Yerabakan,
we passed below the ancient fortress high up on
the mountain. It is formidable looking and it is
perfectly marvelous that such a castle could ever
have been constructed there. It is enormous and
made of huge blocks of stone. We couldn't see
how any one ever got up to it. It was probably
built at the same time as the one at Fekke, which
we visited later. No one knows when or by whom
they were built. I have never seen anything more
impressive.
We got to Yerabakan at half after four and
went to the house of Miss Hagopian's cousin.
People came right in and we had to visit steadily
for two hours, which was hard when we felt so hot
and dusty. At the time of the exile, there were
eight hundred Armenians in the village. All were
exiled and now two hundred and ninety eight have
returned. A large number of the houses are de¬
stroyed, the church has no roof and not much floor¬
ing, and the church house hasn't one stone left on
another. The cousin's house was not large enough
for us to sleep on the porch and also have a
room
[78]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
room in which to dress, so we took one of the rooms
and had our beds there. In the night there was a
dropping of earth on the beds from the ceiling, and
we were told in the morning it was caused by the
snakes. Every house has one or more, and it is
considered to bring good luck. We were told that
sometimes if there is music a snake will push its
head out to listen.
A meeting in the church was arranged for the
afternoon. We met in the roofless building and it
was an affecting sight. Three rickety chairs were
found for us, and the rest sat on the ground. As
the service commenced, clouds gathered and rain
began to fall. One of the men who lived near and
who had a large porch invited us there. Just as
we were through, some men who had been called
from the meeting returned and announced the
death of a woman in the village. There was a good
deal of excitement and running. Miss Hagopian
said we must go to the house, and there followed a
painful scene. When we arrived in the room
where the body was lying, women were crouched
on the floor screaming and beating their breasts.
Fortunately, it was not necessary for us to go in,
so we waited outside. The husband sat reclining
on the shoulder of another man and sobbed wildly.
After a little while the body was brought out onto
the porch and the group again went through the
loud wailing. Burial has to follow very quickly
after death, and we heard the sawing of boards
as
[79]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
as we sat there. A woman came and meas¬
ured the length of the body and then the others
sewed it up in a coverlid, while the husband
shrieked and the women almost had hysterics. It
was all quite dreadful. Then the men carried the
body away and we went back to the house, where
we were entertained at dinner by the man at whose
house the afternoon meeting had been held.
We, with our host, sat on the floor about a
round brass tray that rested on a small, low table
about five inches high. The wife did not eat with
us but, assisted by the other women of the house¬
hold, served us. It is fun to make little shovels of
the thin bread and eat the food with these, later
eating the shovels themselves. To make this bread,
a piece of dough is gradually rolled and pulled
until it becomes a circle about two feet in diameter
and thin as a sheet of paper. This is baked on an
iron sheet, much skill being necessary to turn it
successfully. Great piles of this bread are put
aside for future use and when wanted each piece
is wet down a little and folded toward the center
from four sides, until finally the result is a square
about six by six.
The children of the villages are in much better
physical condition than those in Hadjin—much
less eye trouble. We interviewed many orphans
and made out the list of those whom we can take.
The next morning we started about eight o'clock
for Fekke, the last village we were to visit. The
road
rso]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
road was very steep for an hour as we went down
the mountain side through Kaladery, (valley of the
rock) and Jinjedery, (valley of the gypsy). I was
told that at Jinjedery, one of the people com¬
mented on the fact that we had no guard but an¬
other, looking at my two cameras fastened to my
belt, replied, "Oh, she carries her weapons with
her." This was Saturday and we wanted to arrive
at Fekke in time to go to the castle that afternoon.
It was fully as impressive as that at Yerabakan.
The town lies at the foot of the rock on which the
castle stands and we scrambled to the height with
some weariness. It was a repaying thing to do,
however. It is a ruin but enough remains for one
to rebuild it in imagination. There is a wonder¬
ful view from the summit.
Sunday at Fekke was a busy day, beginning
at half after seven with a church service. Edith
and I spoke at this one and Miss Hagopian in the
afternoon. We were greeted by Elisa and Leah,
whose home Fekke had been when their parents
were alive. They had been here for a few days'
visit. We saw the big oven where Elisa's father
was murdered in the time of the massacres of 1909.
We stayed at the church house which was in good
condition, as was the church,—they having been
used by the Turks after the people were exiled.
Leah's aunt was living in two of the rooms so Leah
was there to help us. Fekke is in a desolate condi¬
tion with two-thirds of the houses destroyed. The
people
[81]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
people show great courage I think in facing the
future and some of the men, who could do better
by going either to Adana or Sis, are willing to stay
and help if they can have a teacher and a preacher.
It is worth while to give them all the aid we can.
It was entirely too busy a day, for there were
numerous conferences and we were invited out for
both dinner and supper. During the afternoon,
between conferences, we called on two Turkish
families. Turkish women can certainly be very
charming. At the second house there were several
other callers, of course women, and our hostess was
busy seeing that coffee was served and that cigar¬
ettes were kept rolled. She was troubled that we
did not join them in smoking. We left on Monday
morning and, as we neared the school, all the girls
were ranged along the road and their welcome was
delightfully enthusiastic.
September Twenty-ninth
I have taken over the general supervision of
the orphans and that includes the providing and
inspection of towels, clean clothes and so on. These
are the orphans from the villages and the ones we
have been having in the temporary orphanages.
I shall go each day to the factory building to see
about the boys while the girls are under our roof,
or rather roofs, in the compound. All today, I
have been making towels and washcloths and it is
only a beginning. I am also going to do what I
can
[82]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
can to make the rooms look attractive though I am
limited by lack of decorations.
To-night after I had come to my room, Edith
sent over asking me to go to see the treading of the
grapes. There were two big tubs in each of which
stood a woman treading out the juice. The scene
was picturesque for it was dark and the girls were
lighting the place with pine flares as it was out in
the open. Another thing I did today was to paint
numbers on many tin cups for the orphans. These
are made out of tins which contained our con¬
densed milk and they are very good looking with
nice little handles soldered on.
October Fifth
"As cold waters to a thirsty soul, so is good
news from a far country." This has been the best
week I have had in this far country as to mail.
Both post days have brought me a goodly grist and,
as I was a little cast down by the prospect of the
winter's work, it was most opportune. We shall get
straightened out before many weeks and then it
will be easier. All of the children coming from
the villages have to pass through Miss Super's
hands to be inspected and the majority of them
have something the matter with them. This past
week there have been as many as sixty-four chil¬
dren sleeping in the clinic. It is a tremendous thing
to get the children in a condition so that they can
consort
[83]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
consort with the rest of the world. When they ar¬
rive they are taken at once to the clinic and given a
bath and scrubbed with a scrubbing brush. Most of
the children from Gerumse had both head and
body lice. Miss Super and her helpers set to and
scrubbed with a vengeance. After the first wash¬
ing—fortunately the children did not all arrive
on the same day—you would see a group going
around with their heads done up in enveloping
cloth which kept the fumes of the kerosene in and
then the following day the heads would have an¬
other washing. Two sets of outer and under
clothes have to be made for each child so you can
imagine we had our hands full. Most of the chil¬
dren had "itch," that horrid disease which comes
from living in dirty surroundings. Miss Super is
most successful in her treatment but great care has
to be exercised to keep one child from giving it to
another. Room 17, the room in the house which
is used for some of the orphans, is beginning to
look rather well. I made curtains for the three
windows of unbleached muslin with a nice valance
at the top. I have driven nails for each child's cup
and towel and later they are each going to have a
bottje (a square of cloth) for their own clothes and
any belongings they may have.
I am glad of the magazines for something be¬
side reading material for I anticipate decorating
the walls of the rooms with the colored covers as
time goes on. Tomorrow I can begin to get the
children
[84]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
children into their permanent quarters. All the
rest are to be in three rooms in the clinic. The up¬
per part has never been finished but it will soon
have flooring and the roof mended. We have a
splendid woman for matron whom we secured in
Fekke. She is very motherly and efficient. The
children are, many of them, wild little things—
they have lived like animals; many of them, dur¬
ing exile, were with the Arabs.
When we were in Fekke we had a very nice
meal with a young man in his home. He is rather
well to do and has recovered some of his property.
He has recently married and has with him his little
sister and brother but his parents were killed in
exile. The sister is very pretty and about fifteen
I should think. At the time of the deportation, the
older brother was left in Aleppo but in some way
the young sister and little brother were sent on
toward Der Zor. At one time, when the party was
moving somewhat slowly, the Arabs rode into the
company, slashing right and left with their knives
and urging them on. Many were killed and the
descriptions we listened to were terrible. Men
and women were cut all to pieces. The two frantic
children ran one way and then another and finally
the girl offered all the gold she had in a belt—at
this time, she had only one whole garment left—
to some Arabs, asking that she and her brother be
spared. Strangely enough, there seems to be a kind
of honor among these wild people and, after taking
the
[85]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
the money, the children were allowed to go free.
Some days afterwards, in a crowd, the girl sud¬
denly heard her aunt's voice and found this one rel¬
ative who had been sent off with another party.
To look at her you would never imagine that the
child had gone through such experiences.
*****
Hadjin instead of seeming more possible as
a place in which to live seems less so as time goes
on. I am speaking of the city, of course. As
we rode back from the church service I was im¬
pressed increasingly with the horrible state of
things, such filth, many of the people living like
rats. It seems almost hopeless to me, and yet Mat-
teos reports that the people are getting on very
well. You see we have turned away the rabble
now that school has begun and the Mennonites are
here and can take on that form of relief. They say
there is now employment in the city for many of
the men. The orphanage in the vank (monastery),
carried on by the Armenian Committee, will open
before long and they are planning for a thousand
children. Just think of it, they are bringing or¬
phans from other places! How anyone can think
that wise I fail to understand, for it is almost im¬
possible to buy anything here. We are anxiously
awaiting the coming of Minas Efïendi who has
been gone over a month and who is to bring many
necessary things for our orphans here.
I keep
[86]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
I keep forgetting to tell you the pretty saluta¬
tions with which we are greeted on the road.
Sometimes it is "Go in peace" or "May you meet
God on the road" and again "May you go laugh¬
ing, laughing." Navart calls me for my bath and
when I come out I find her standing near the door
to say, "May it be health to you."
October Tenth
It is interesting to see the change in the children
who have been rescued from the Turks. The
Siranoosh of whom I have spoken, was cruelly
treated as a little slave and her mind was almost
shattered. She seemed stupid when she came but
now she shows marked improvement and will, we
think, develop into an intelligent young girl. She is
exceedingly pretty and has a sweet nature. She was
so ill used, that she can't recall her last name nor
where her home was before the exiling. Gulania,
who used to help with the wool, is a dear child and
she looks as if she had good blood. She is sure that
she lived in Caesarea but she doesn't know the
name of her parents. She thinks they were killed
but she is not certain.
I feel very happy about my work and I only
wish I could understand the funny things the chil¬
dren say. I suppose some people might think I
would find it more interesting to be in a place
where there were a larger number of Americans or
perhaps
[87]
LETTERS FROM Cl LICIA
perhaps a place of more political importance. I
feel that nowhere else could I have had a richer
experience. Even if I can't speak the language,
I get nearer to the people where there is such a
small group. I feel very close to the girls and the
teachers and I shall always think it a wonderful
year. Miss Super has been working terribly hard
and she has given out for a day or two—she hopes
to be up tomorrow. I keep remarkably well,
hardly ever a headache. I have some trouble with
sleeplessness. I suppose it may be the altitude, but
even if at night I sleep little it doesn't make me ill.
It isn't bad to look out at the sky on wonderful
moonlight nights like the ones we are having just
now. We are beginning to have rains but most of
the days are sunny.
October Fourth
For a time the stove in our American kitchen
acted in a distressing manner until we discovered
that the poor thing was choked with soot and now,
that the pipe has been cleaned, it is doing nobly.
Until supplies arrive from Adana I have just half
a cup of fat for any kind of cooking.
The attitude of the people toward this school is
perfectly astonishing. There is a Gregorian school
in the city where the tuition is free but the people
scorn it. They say nowhere can their children get
what they can from Hadjin Home School. The
capacity
[88]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
capacity has been reached and still the cry is in¬
sistent that we take in more. A girl who went to
Constantinople and took her little sister is sending
her back here for she says there is nothing like
Hadjin Home. Certainly the spirit is beautiful.
Just think of it, with only one mission worker, a
big boys' school is also being carried on. I wish
you could see some of our children—I mean espe¬
cially the new orphans. We have two sets of little
sisters. You remember Elmas? Sometime after
she appeared among us, her tiny sister Mary was
discovered. She was living with a woman who
finally left her in the street and then we added her
to our number. She is badly diseased but Miss
Super has done wonders for her and she may get
well. Elmas is absolutely devoted to her and is al¬
ways seen hand in hand with little sister. Elmas is
gradually acquiring round cheeks and is quite a
darling. The other sisters are Azadoohee and
Bayzar, six and four respectively. Bayzar is rather
bad and would be benefited by a spanking at times.
She has spunk which poor little Mary isn't capable
of at present. To see these two sets going about
together is very sweet. We have some nice boys
among our orphans, fine manly fellows who will
repay our care I am sure.
October Twenty-fifth
We are off for a picnic to the Pines, a place
where the people used, in pre-war days, to go for
a summer
[89]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
a summer outing of several weeks. We are taking
our luncheon and joining forces with the Ebys and
Miss Bredemus. It is a trip of about two hours so
we hope to get off by ten o'clock.
No post came yesterday but we understand that
the man is on the way. I hope the stories are not
true of trouble in the Adana region. General
Mudge told us that we were especially safe here.
I don't mean that there would be danger for us
personally anyway, but for the Armenians. I can
faintly realize what it would be to have any harm
threaten our girls. I don't see how I could live
and have little Elmas hurt. I think there will be
only sporadic uprisings and they will be quickly
suppressed by the English I feel sure. I worry
when I think you will read alarming reports in the
papers and I only speak of what we hear because
I know that by the time what I write reaches you
everything will be quiet again. For a long time, or
until peace is signed with Turkey, there will be
trouble. The Turks are beginning to think the
Allies do not mean business and I am not surprised.
When the preacher who is on his way from Adana
arrives he will know the true state of things.
*****
We had a lovely time this afternoon as I
knew we should for the day was perfect, bright
but not glaring, and the Pines, a beautiful place.
Our
[90]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
Our road led "up hill all the way" until, when
we reached our destination, we were six thou¬
sand feet up. The breath of the pines was sweet
and the ground was dotted with the dearest little
autumn crocuses. They are pale lavender with
golden centers. There was a wind stirring in
the trees and the view of distant mountain peaks
was beautiful. We ate our luncheon spread on
pine needles and then went to a cold spring for a
drink of delicious water. It was all so peaceful
that it was hard to believe that there could be
trouble anywhere. Darkness settles down early
here in the mountains and we only got home in time
to see our way and it was barely half after five.
October Twenty-seventh
I think I will outline my day for you. I got
up a little before six and at twenty minutes of seven
I was in the kitchen to see that breakfast was com¬
ing on properly. After prayers I went to find how
many orphans lacked yemenies (a kind of slipper)
and arranged to have them fitted as far as we could
from the small stock we have on hand, and planned
for the rest to have their measures taken in the af¬
ternoon. I wound the clocks, which I had for¬
gotten to do on Sunday, and then came over to this
house to start the woman on the underclothes. I
cut and fitted and told the woman what to do. In
the interims I got dinner started. I was consulted
several times about relief problems. I had to go
to
[91]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
to bring children from school to he fitted. I fin¬
ished getting dinner; goats meat pie, stewed toma¬
toes, and apricot soufflé. I spoke directly after¬
ward at the school exercises. I worked with my
sewing woman and got ready for my sewing class
in the school. When that was partly through I was
called out to send some things to Surp Sarkis for
the orphans. I also had to see to fitting out nine
of them with stockings. We have just received
four thousand pairs from the Lord Mayor's Fund
at Adana.
Then we decided to fit out our orphans while
the contents of the great hales were spread out on
the ground. It was quite an affair, for we fitted
each of the fifty-eight girls with two pairs. I left
for a moment to call Leah and tell her what to
start for supper, which we have at half after five.
I got through in time to finish the cocoa and
scramble the eggs. I am now in my room and quite
ready to go to bed. A letter came with the loads
from Adana from Dr. Chambers and we feel rather
depressed. He says it is rumored that the English
are withdrawing and the French are coming in.
November Second
The Armenian hodvilli (preacher), so long ex¬
pected, has at last arrived with his family. He and
his wife speak English passably well as they were
in Aleppo part of the time of their exile and had
to
[92]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
to do with the British. They were sent to Rakka,
that place where so many of the people died of
starvation. The children look weak and the wife
is not strong. They had a hard time getting here
from Adana, as it was just when there was trouble
with the Turkish chettes (brigands). One Ar¬
menian village near Adana is reported to be en¬
tirely wiped out. The bodvilli's family arrived in
Jehan, formerly called Hamedia, just after seven
Armenians, four men, two women and a small
child had been murdered. The bodvilli buried
them and he said it was horrible, for the bodies had
been terribly mutilated. Soon the chettes were
captured, most of them it is believed, and seven
were shot. He saw this. They were delayed for
a long time but finally got here. Word had gone
out that Hadjin was surrounded by four thousand
chettes and they didn't dare to venture on the road.
It is rather funny for we are very safe here. A
report usually goes out, Edith says, if there is
trouble either in Constantinople or even the Cau¬
casus, that Hadjin is in peril. All the time while
the trouble was on, in the vicinity of Adana, we
were exceptionally peaceful. You know we went
to the last villages with only our catturje and not
even one gendarme. I am glad I am so far from
"civilization." It is safer.
We have a little boy named Mihran, who is
eight years old we think. When his parents were
exiled four years ago all of the children went with
them
[93]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
them. With the exception of Mihran all died
and eventually he was discovered by a relative and
taken back to Yerabakan. He was neglected and
when we visited the village a month ago we ar¬
ranged to have him sent to us with the other or¬
phans. Shortly before he came, some boys stoned
him, injuring his knee quite badly. He is the dear¬
est little boy and I can't see how any one could
have wanted to hurt him. Miss Super bandages
his knee each morning and he is so cunning about
helping her. He always takes off the bandage him¬
self and rolls it up neatly. We have made up our
minds to keep a little boy whom we expected to
send to Surp Sarkis with some other children be¬
cause we were so crowded. He, at first, was very
difficult to manage for he would not keep his band¬
ages on and he had itch badly. Little Vahan is
four and he was such a trial that Miss Super longed
to get him off her hands as she had so much to do
for the rest. She tried every way to make him
mind and finally there seemed nothing to do but
to tie his hands and have him go without his sup¬
per. He has been absolutely good since then and
is completely cured of his trouble. Today was
Edith's day to stay home from church and she had
some of the youngest children at the house. About
the time for us to come home she went with them
to the bridge to meet us. She took little Vahan's
hand in hers and they walked along together. He
looked up at her and said, "Once the doctor (they
call
[94]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
call Miss Super doctor) took my hand in hers like
this." Wasn't that pathetic? We are so horribly
busy we have little time to pet the children. They
are wild to speak English and when they learn cer¬
tain phrases they use them as the fancy takes them.
For instance, Stepan wanted to thank me for his
handkerchief so he said, "good bye" which an¬
swered perfectly for I knew what he meant and
that was all that was necessary.
Miss Super is indefatigable. She is devoted to
the children and is a clever and ingenious nurse.
She has difficulty in getting medicines from Adana
and tomorrow she will have to close the clinic un¬
til supplies come. It is rather frightening to be
without remedies with so many children in our
care.
November Eighteenth
A letter from Mrs H came today, so loving
that it made me very happy. The knowledge that
people care for you keeps your courage up. It is
what has helped me more than anything else this
year. I have been fitting the small children with
the hooded capes which are now finished and they
are too dear. I am eager to see them march to
church in their new garments. Mihran is our con¬
tinual delight. The other day, someone asked him
if he was hungry—if he had enough to eat. He
said, "Hungry boys sit still and sulk. Don't you
see that I run and jump?"
November
C9S]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
November Twenty-second
"Snow on the mountains!" was the exclamation
day before yesterday when we came to breakfast
and we could feel it in the air as well as see it. I
am so thankful that the girls all have their flannel
petticoats. They come shivering to me in spite of
this but I have to think how much better off they
are than they were before and let it go at that. I
have five of the tiniest ones in their canton flannel
suits but it is a job to get two sets for fifty-six chil¬
dren. I never in all my existence lived in such a
rush.
A Turk who brought wheat some weeks ago
was seeing to its being carried to a place to be
emptied and Matteos was lending a hand. Miss
Hagopian and Alethea were standing near and the
Turk said, "Here girls, why don't you help, it's a
shame to let the Effendi work." It was especially
funny as these two are the ones who are college
graduates and the Turk wasn't joking in the least.
Of course, women should do the work and let the
men sit around.
November Twenty-third
It is a joy to be in a warm room and last even¬
ing I stayed up rather late just because it seemed
so cozy. I have a funny little affair that used to
belong to the Gardners. You know how a wood
stove can heat in a hurry so I shall be very com-
comfortable
[96]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
fortable, especially as there is to be a stove in the
room where the sewing women are. I sit in my
room now with small Mihran cutting out paper
birds on the floor. We had an interesting time at
dinner, for Miss Hagopian and Edith told about
the experiences one of the teachers went through
at the hands of the Turks. Josephine was in the
Talas school and she with the other girls was made
a prisoner when the property was taken and the
school broken up. Great numbers of the Caesarea
Armenians became Moslems and these urged the
girls to change their faith to save their lives but
nothing moved them. They suffered no physical
violence but the wonder is they kept their minds.
They were used as nurses in a Turkish hospital but
had no freedom to leave. At one time, they were
told they were to be married to Turks that their
Armenian blood might be purified. They replied,
"Our blood will not mingle with yours." Again
and again they were brought before officials who
said their last day had come if they would not re¬
cant—that their names "were written" for deporta¬
tion. They were made prisoners in May, 1916,
and in February, 1919, they were liberated. At
the last, they were asked what their reply was to
the demand to change their religion, and they said,
"Look at your books for May, 1916, and you will
see our reply—we have had no reason to change."
We have a new gendarme commandant and the
present incumbent is a very pleasing man of educa-
education.
[97]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
tion. He called yesterday and we like him very
much. His father was a lawyer and his mother
a graduate of Constantinople College. Both of
them, five of his brothers and his two sisters have
been killed. There have been so many massacres
that I am interested when Miss Hagopian refers
to things as happening after the Zeitoon massacre
—the Adana massacre and so on.
November Thirtieth
This afternoon, Lieutenant Suby, a French offi¬
cer who has been making a tour of our province
of Cilicia, called on us. He told us that Marash
and Aintab are included in Cilicia and the entire
district has been assigned to France. He seemed
antagonistic toward the Armenians in what he said.
After he left, we learned that he came from
Morocco and is a Moslem. This accounts for his
attitude. He looks like a Levantine.
We are rejoiced to have warmer weather, es¬
pecially as today Miss Hagopian started for Adana
on her way to America. The week has been busy
getting her ready.
December Seventh
We walked to church today and I was impressed
anew with the wretchedness of Hadjin. I am col¬
lecting the underwear that our children do not
need now that they have their winter suits and we
are
[98]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
are going to try to fit out some miserable little
Kurdish children. Speaking of the Kurds, we had
a call the other day from a very nice Kurdish sheik
whose name is Dersoon Effendi. He is a splendid
type of man and a good friend to the missionaries
and to the Armenians as well. When the deporta¬
tions took place, he felt terribly. Some years ago
there was a great deal of brigandage in the pass this
side of Caesarea. The government invited this
sheik and his people to move there, offering to
give them a large tract of land if they would prom¬
ise to protect the pass. This they have successfully
done ever since. When Dersoon Effendi called the
other day I met him and, in the course of the visit,
expressed my admiration for his beautiful stock¬
ings. He looked interested and when he came
again yesterday he brought me a present of a very
fine pair, spun, dyed and knit by a member of his
household. Edith says he has an immense house
for, aside from his wives, the families of his various
married children live with him in the old patri¬
archal manner.
December Twentieth
We are having the first real snow today and it
is a most lovely sight. It is not cold, so the snow is
soft and clings to every leaf and twig making the
most beautiful picture you can imagine. The cle¬
matis has been so pretty all the fall with its fluffy
clusters and these, still holding their own, are now
like
[99]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
like sprays of exquisite white flowers. I stood this
afternoon looking down our valley to the merry
little stream dashing along in a mad way, its loud
song coming up to me as I stood in the falling snow.
There is something very queer going on in the
money market we feel sure but we know nothing
about what it is. We have had word not to pay
any remittances now and every one is afraid to use
money in any way. We have no idea what it
means. As no word came from Adana we may be
in the dark for some time. There is more trouble
with the chettes so that the bodvilli did not go to
Shar as he planned to do. He was to start this
morning but the kaimakam and the gendarme com¬
mandant advised against it.
December Twenty-fifth
* * * So ends the Christmas Day! To go
back to the beginning ; I suppose I should first tell
you of last evening, or even go farther back to the
afternoon when we three worked with feverish
haste making the two hundred bags for the chil¬
dren. We finished them at last and then there was
the tree to trim in the school room. It was a pine
tree and, at first, it looked pretty hopeless but it
is remarkable what can be accomplished with un¬
promising material. The trimmings were old and
tarnished and very few in number but, by a wise
distribution, the effect was not half bad. The play
the
[100]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
the girls gave was a dramatization of the story of
Esther and it was done exceedingly well. King
Ahasuerus looked very impressive in my blue ki¬
mono and my black and white striped one figured
prominently in the costume of the wicked Haman.
The boys from the orphanage gave two plays and
the distribution of presents ended the performance.
Each bag had leb lebbies, raisins and locoom
(Turkish delight) and then each child was given
an orange. At a few minutes after five this morn¬
ing I was wakened by the singing of carols out¬
side my room. When the singing ended and I
opened the door to thank the girls, it was a pretty
sight to see them all holding candles. The weather,
which had been threatening, had changed and the
sky was clear with a very bright star just overhead.
It seemed very like the song of the angels. Other
groups followed and the singing kept up for almost
an hour. We had dinner by ourselves and sacri¬
ficed the largest of our turkeys for the feast. We
had decided to receive calls on the Armenian
Christmas but to our dismay a number of people
came today so the afternoon was a busy one with
twenty-nine guests.
December Twenty-seventh
I am just up from my knees before the fire, a
not unusual position for me these days of wet wood.
We are having almost constant rain and with roofs
that
[101]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
that leak, stables, henhouses and woodhouses that
are not proof against the wet, we are in somewhat
of a sorry plight. There are many interesting
things that I see and think I will, without fail, re¬
member and tell you and then I as promptly for¬
get them. I have meant to tell you about the big
block of stone with a place hollowed out on top
where the women come to pound their salt. I pass
it every time I go to the city and sometimes the
women are there working away at the coarse dirty
stuff.
January Eleventh
This noon, just as dinner was over, Mr. Nilson
arrived from Adana much to our surprise. We
knew he was coming but we had expected him a
little later. He is a fine man and we are delighted
to have him here, although we find he can stay only
a week or ten days at the longest. One thing he
offers to do is to fill out the orphan blanks, work
that has been hanging over our heads for some
time. He has been giving us much gossip, and of
course it has been exciting to have this touch with
the world.
January Fifteenth
You poor people live such a monotonous life in
quiet Evanston, with your mail coming regularly,
—now we never know whether anything will come
or
[102]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
or not and we can have the thrill of hearing that
robber bands are out on the road, and so, for that
reason, the post may not arrive. This was the word
we got last Tuesday; that the man did not dare to
venture from Sis. The following day, we are told
that the two mails will come in as the "bad Turks"
have been driven away. "It's a gay life if you don't
weaken." Did I tell you that some months ago it
was reported that three thousand Turks were gath¬
ered at Everek fully armed and prepared to march
on Hadjin and wipe it off the map? They were
even reported to have cannon. Of course, we never
gave it a thought for the suggestion was so foolish,
but that's the kind of thing that people on the out¬
side hear and then think we are risking our lives
to be here. All the time we have been perfectly
peaceful and so we shall remain. Mr. Nilson re¬
ports that the French are doing a good deal in the
way of road building between here and Sis, so in
time, motors will make the trip. How thankful
I am that my experience has come before that.
January Twenty-fifth
"Soup of the evening, beautiful soup." Do you
know, Lewis Carroll must have been referring to
Hadjin and the American compound when he
made this parody. We always have soup for sup¬
per as it is the easiest to prepare and I have in¬
vented some new combinations that are quite good.
Edith
[103]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
Edith said that I was following the tradition of
the place in having soup, for when she first came
to Hadjin and was asked to take over the American
housekeeping she proposed to Kevork the cook to
have soup for dinner. He replied, "Soup dinner,
no—soup supper."
To change the subject and to lead up to a story,
let me remind you that I am greatly disappointed
not to be planning, when I finally leave Hadjin,
to go out by way of Zeitoon to Marash. The Zei-
toonlu used, at least in the past, to wear very pic¬
turesque costumes and the city you may recall, was
one of the two places, Hadjin being the other, to
hold out against the Turks when the Armenians
were struggling for their independence. The
people are extremely conservative and they tell of
a man whose wife died and who refused to look
on her face after she was dead. He said, "Never
while she was alive did I see her face and now that
she is dead I will pay her the same respect." It
was in coming back from a mission meeting at
Marash by way of Zeitoon that Edith reports a
curious experience. The party was escorted by a
band of men of whom they had their suspicions,
a self constituted escort. When they were nearly
at Hadjin, the men said they were robbers but they
decided to protect the missionaries and not let
other robbers attack them. On the whole, foreign¬
ers are pretty safe for it is generally understood
that they never carry money with them. When
Mr.
[104]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
Mr. Nilson was coming here, he was told in Sis
that the road was not safe but Dersoon Efifendi
and another Kurd were coming and they said they
would look out for him. At one time, they had
him put on the big coat and hood belonging to one
of them, to conceal the fact that he was a "hat
wearer," as they call all foreigners. He had not
the slightest difficulty however. These things are
generally scares.
I don't think I have told you the names of many
of the children. When I first came, they sounded
droll to me but now I think them the most natural
in the world. Siranoosh, Shenorick, Gulezar,
Teshgoon, Azniv, Siroon, Rahel, Hripsima,
Aroosiak, Serarpi, Semagule, Gassia, Yeranika,
Zaroohee, Yeranoohee, and Serpoohee are fair ex¬
amples. Do you wonder that at first I thought I
should never master them? Now, as far as the
orphan girls go, I can tell each child at long dis¬
tance by both name and number. We rejoice in
only ten Mariams and I know their last names as
well.
February Tenth
It is bitterly cold and in many of the rooms it
is just like being out of doors. I kept to my room
for three days on account of a cold, but Saturday
I went over to the other house to take up my reg¬
ular duties, and then Miss Super gave out. Mr.
Nilson left two weeks ago and we have had about
all
[105]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
all we could bear in the way of anxiety about work
and the work itself. Monday, Miss Super was just
getting around, Edith was nearly ill and I was feel¬
ing somewhat below par when, lo and behold, a
guest appeared—Mr. Seeley from Adana. We
were having a young blizzard when he arrived.
He is a new relief worker who has lately come
from France where he was a motor driver during
two years of the war. He brought blankets and
cloth for distribution in the villages in our region.
Of course, with deep snow in many sections, it is
impossible to get to these places now. It is most
agreeable to have the young man here but after
the weather takes a turn for the better, he will go
back to Adana and leave the relief goods for us to
see to later.
February Twelfth
We have enjoyed Mr. Seeley and we were sorry
in many ways to have him leave this afternoon.
He is as nice a young fellow as one often meets,—
big and strapping but with such a sweet spirit. He
said he liked Hadjin so much that he would enjoy
being appointed here. Isn't it interesting how
people care for the place almost at once? The
cold is a little less and we are grateful. It has been
hard to live these last few days. Everyone says
they never knew anything like it here. One of the
things Mr. Seeley did was to fix the furnace. We
seemed to get no heat and it was discovered that
one
[106]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
one of the pipes missed connections. Today, by
way of contrast, it feels quite tropical in the main
house.
I am glad to think you are at this moment prob¬
ably in California. You know distance makes very
little difference. I have felt in some ways nearer
to you than ever before while I have been here—
the spirit is all that really counts I think.
March Second
It is such a pity I have been ill but today I
started in again at my work and, although naturally
I am a little more tired than usual, I have stood
the test well. The weather has turned warm and
today was ideally beautiful. You may not feel as
thrilled as I do, to know that twenty-seven of the
dresses are finished, but I am quite elated.
March Sixth
This is a most wonderful sunny morning. I
am about out of the woods, as regards my cough, I
think. It has been a siege and I have been sorry
to fall by the way when everyone else was tired. It
may, for several reasons, not be possible for me to
go to Marash and Aintab but I shall know better
later. We have a very sick little boy and I fear he
will not pull through, although the strength of
these people is remarkable. When salts are given to
a man like our cotturje, for example, the dose is as
large
[107]
letters from cilicia
large as that for a horse. If they were not inured
to hardships, they could never have lived through
exile.
Note—This was the last letter received in
America from Hadjin until February, 1922, when
the following communication, posted March 10th,
1920, was finally released by the Nationalists.
March Seventh
Today has been wonderful—such sunshine and
blue skies. Several of the children brought me
little yellow crocuses, our first spring flowers. It
seemed as if winter never would end but the cere¬
mony of a week ago has worked the charm. The
girls "burned winter" and that finished it. The
usual custom in the town is to have a bonfire on
the roof, which on native houses is made of mud.
Because I was ill in my room the girls wanted me
to see the fun, so built the fire on the ground below
my windows. It is well to know this custom for it
is effective. From that night the weather has been
mild. * * * * There is a matter about
which I have avoided writing and I may have
made a mistake. I am thinking you may have
heard of Marash and the troubles there and been
alarmed about me. There was a massacre and
until recently, we could get no news ourselves. It
was all just as terrible as could be but, as I hope
you know, all of the missionaries and relief work-
workers
[108]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
ers are safe. We naturally have had some alarm
here but no real difficulty. At a later date, I will
give you all details but you are not to have a sec¬
ond's anxiety about me. I should not think of
leaving Hadjin while there was reason for fear
but, if that seems past, I can go feeling quiet about
Edith and the children. When you receive this,
I hope to be started on my way toward you and I
confess I am mighty anxious to see you. Some¬
times it seems as if I couldn't wait.
[109]
WRITTEN BUT NOT
SENT
WRITTEN BUT NOT
SENT
February Third
So many rumors come to us that I have decided
to keep a record of events which may be of interest
to you later. I shall write nothing in my letters
that will give you cause for alarm as you cannot
help us whatever happens. Because this account, if
you ever read it, will not go through the regular
channels but will be handed to you, I shall tell you
some things which I should not dare trust to the
post on account of censorship. I have said little
about the way the French are handling matters in
this region. You know that they have been given
control of Cilicia and their present policy is to sup¬
ply weapons to the Armenians. It is a policy which
seems to us most unwise, for the Armenians, smart¬
ing from past cruelty and injustice, are certain to
take it out on the Turks when the opportunity of¬
fers. All through the fall and winter the Armen¬
ians have, by means of dramatic entertainments,
kept their past sufferings vivid. The Turkish kai-
kaimakam
[113]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
makam has been removed and an Armenian has
replaced him.
We have heard of some Turkish villages where
arms have been forcibly seized by Armenian gen¬
darmes. All this creates unrest and friction. Word
has come to us that a great body of Turks is being
gathered together in the north under a leader
called Mustapha Kemal Pasha, who is determined
to drive the French out of the country. It is said
that Marash is being attacked. You will recall that
this city is four days' journey from us—about a
hundred and twenty miles—and our Hadjin people
are in a panic. They say, "We shall be the next."
Although the French are supposed to be protecting
Cilicia, not a French soldier has been sent to this
city to guard it although the French have filled all
the ofiices with their own appointees,—Armenians
in French uniforms—and the French flag has been
raised over the Gregorian school.
It is very cold and we have had much snow, so
that at present the mountain passes cannot be trav¬
eled but when the snow melts we shall see. It is
reported that even the Turkish women and boys
are being armed and our poor people feel that they
are doomed.
February Fourth
The bodvilli has tried telegraphing to Marash
—it is long since post has come from friends there
—but
[114]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
—but no word gets through, so we are confirmed
in our fears that that place is surrounded and cut
off. This afternoon we got the horses out and rode
over to the orphanage in the vank, carried on by
the Armenian committee. The poor matron has
lost so many members of her family in massacres
that she has little hope that Hadjin will be spared.
All this and the stories told on every side of past
horrors is not especially cheering in view of our
present situation. Fortunately we are so over¬
whelmed with work that we have little time to
think of anything else. My children must have
their new clothes made and their old ones patched.
It is a mercy that the common task can almost fill
the horizon.
February Sixth
We are told that in the region of Everek, the
Turks are massing, with Hadjin as one of their
chief objectives. A letter has come to us from
Rear Admiral Bristol—our High Commissioner
in Constantinople—reminding us that all Ameri¬
cans in Turkey must be absolutely neutral, siding
with neither French nor Armenians. Groups of
Armenians are constantly coming to the compound
to discuss the sending of letters and telegrams. The
French reply that there is no reason for fear—
when the need arises, adequate protection will be
provided.
February
[US]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
February Eighth
Edith has just been over to tell me of word that
has come from an Armenian village, far away on
the border of Cilicia, asking that the people be re¬
ceived and sheltered in Hadjin. It seems heartless
to refuse but with this city overcrowded—the peo¬
ple in many cases living in caves and holes in the
ground—seven thousand trying to live in the five
hundred houses that still stand, there is no room.
February Eleventh
I am writing this in the evening after a most
terrible day. About nine o'clock this morning, two
Armenians, almost unconscious from cold and ex¬
haustion, came to our gate. Their story was this—
the Americans in Marash, which had been cut off
from the world for several weeks, sent a courier
with word of their condition to Hadjin. He
reached Zeitoon but would go no further. Lots
were cast among the Zeitoonlu for two men to
continue the journey. The ones who drew the fatal
papers said, "To go is death, to stay is death," and
so, traveling only at night and by way of the moun¬
tain peaks, almost perishing with cold, they came
to us. They had been on the road six nights. They
had a paper saying the bearers were to be paid
twenty gold pounds. The message they brought
was in the form of a telegram and read as fol¬
lows—"The Turks and the French are fighting.
The
[116]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
The French, who are fighting from our compound,
are distinctly on the defensive. Many Christians
in the city have been killed, some of our orphans
wounded. We are short of food. Send word to
Arnold and Bristol Constantinople and American
Consul Aleppo." This was signed by the relief
director of Marash. It seems so strange and piti¬
ful to think that Marash, a large city, should be
seeking help from little Hadjin, the most inaccess¬
ible place where relief work is being done. How¬
ever we still have telegraphic communication and
as soon as the message could be taken to the station
it was on its way—we hope it will not be tampered
with.
These same men brought a letter to our bodvilli
from the one in Marash, which told of the cutting
down of his young wife and two little children by
the Turks. You in America may know more of
conditions in the interior than we but the danger
seems near. We four had a consultation in Edith's
office. In my letter which went to you yesterday,
I told you of the arrival of Mr. Seeley, a relief
worker from Adana who came for a few days' visit
and to bring blankets and cloth. He urged us to
go to Adana while the road is still open. With one
accord, we three said, "No, our place is here." It
is desirable for Mr. Seeley to return to Adana for
he can present our situation to the authorities and
we want him to go at once. Edith and I talked
together after the others had left. Edith said, "I
feel
[117]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
feel that it is quite possible that six weeks from
now we shall not be living." We quietly face that
thought for we know that if, by leaving now, we
could save our lives, we should lose our souls. Life
seems very sweet to me and I long to see you all
again—but if the end is to come here in Turkey
and at the hands of the Turks, then I must believe it
is God's plan for me. If death here is to be my lot,
then I pray that I may meet it with courage high.
Some time ago, I read some verses in the Congrega-
tionalist that moved me and I cut out the bit. I
am going to copy it here, for at this moment, it
gives me comfort.
"In pastures green? Not always; sometimes He
Who knoweth best, in kindness leadeth me
In weary ways, where heavy shadows be.
And by still waters? No, not always so,
Oftimes the heavy tempests round me blow.
And o'er my soul the waves and billows go.
But when the storms beat loudest and I cry
Aloud for help, the Master standeth by,
And whispers to my soul, 'Lo, it is I'.
Lo, where He leads me, I can safely go.
And in the blest hereafter, I shall know
Why, in his wisdom. He has led me so."
I am writing a note to Mr. B , which will
go with Mr. Seeley to Adana and then by courier
to Constantinople, from where it can be sent by
British post. This note contains a sealed letter to
you, which, when there is reasonable proof that I
am not living, will be given to you.
February
[118]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
February Twelfth
Mr. Seeley left us today and although it was
absolutely the right thing for him to go, we felt
somewhat forlorn as he disappeared down the
road. We hope that the food requisition we sent
by him can be filled and sent to us while there is
still opportunity.
February Fifteenth
As my cold continues and I cough almost
incessantly I have again taken to my bed so that
what news filters in is brought to my room. Some
of the girls who have been working hard for a con¬
cert to be given the last of March came over to
talk. They are much depressed and Leah said,
"What is the use? We shall all be killed by that
time." In one way or another all the children hear
about the threatened trouble and yesterday dear
chubby little Vahan declared, "If the Turks come
to cut off my head I shall just run away." Poor
little things, the name Islam makes them tremble.
Of course there are many friendly Turks who have
never had any sympathy for the outrages perpe¬
trated on the Armenians. In many cases Turks
have hidden and protected Armenians but when
danger threatens it is hard for them to remember
that there is such a thing as a good Turk. As I look
from my window I see an Armenian most pic¬
turesquely dressed. He is a soldier and a mem¬
ber of the group of twenty men who are on guard
on
[119]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
on one of the peaks above us. The air is sharp and
he wears a white bashlek, a kind of hood made by
the Circassians, the ends of which, after being
crossed in front, tie again at the back. With his
many bands of cartridges and his gun he looks for¬
midable. We must be absolutely neutral so we
have refused to contribute money toward defense
but we have satisfied ourselves that it is right to
lend blankets to keep the men warm as they watch.
^ 1^ ^ ^
A messenger has just come with letters from
Adana urging us to leave—the thought being that
in case the Turks come and a massacre follows
we shall be powerless to save our orphans. We see
no reason for altering our decision and we shall
stay with the terrified people, knowing that our
presence is a comfort to them. We have had some
parties for the children to turn their thoughts from
their fright. It is a satisfaction to do this for it
takes so little to give them pleasure.
February Eighteenth
Still no real knowledge of conditions. Natur¬
ally the people constantly talk of past suffering.
Mariam, one of my sewing women, has a sadder
look than ever in her eyes as she thinks of her three
children who died of starvation as they traveled
the exile's road to Der Zor and of her husband who
was buried alive. How many Rachels there are
weeping
[120]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
weeping for their children ! Elisa, just at the point
of graduation, so loyal and right minded, cannot
forget that ten years ago her father was cut down
in his own bake oven in the village of Fekke by
the Turks. It is difficult to feel optimistic but,
because of the pathetic faith that the native people
have in Americans, we must smile while our hearts
are sad. I have been looking over some papers I
brought with me from home and I came across a
a copy of that fine old Lutheran hymn that we so
love. Some of the lines seem to fit well into the
past, present and future of this mistreated nation.
"The vast unnumbered throngs that sway,
Around the throne in white array,
All swinging palms and singing psalms
Of vict'ry: Who are they?
They are the ransom'd hosts that from
Temptation, cross and martyrdom
Have come to meet at Jesus' feet
In the eternal home.
And there arra/d in cleans'd attire
Their anthems sing to harp and lyre.
With cherubim and seraphim
In heav'n's celestial choir.
"While here on earth their hearts were sad.
But see them now, surpassing glad.
Triumphant face the throne of grace.
In regal garments clad.
In trials and misfortunes they
Had none their sorrows to allay;
But there above, the God of love
Has wiped their tears away.
They
[121]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
They now enjoy the Sabbath rest
And paschal banquet of the blest,
At festal board, where Christ, their Lord,
Himself is host and guest."
February Twenty-second
This afternoon while I was writing I heard a
tap on my door and found that the bodvilli had
come to say goodbye. It has just been decided
that he shall go to Adana to put in a personal plea
for help for Hadjin. His companions are the Gre¬
gorian bishop and the head of the Gregorian
school. What they can accomplish is uncertain but
it is worth trying.
February Twenty-sixth
No authentic word has come to us but there is
a rumor that the men on their way to Adana were
attacked. We do not know their fate. In the
meantime fear increases.
February Twenty-seventh
We have two Moslem girls in the school, Aye-
sha about twenty years old who was divorced for
no cause by her husband and is anxious to get an
education, hoping to be able to teach, and a dear
little girl. Jennet who is eleven or twelve. Today
both girls were brought by their mothers with the
request that they stay all the time at the school.
The feeling toward all Moslems is not good—there
are about three hundred in Hadjin—and these two
mothers
[122]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
mothers fear for their daughters. Edith has given
them permission to come tonight.
February Twenty-eighth
This afternoon I looked out toward a small
level place in the little valley on my side of the
compound and saw a group of Armenians practis¬
ing warfare. They would advance a short way,
then throw themselves on their faces, bringing their
guns into position. Again and again they did this.
For hundreds of years the Turks have forbidden
the use of weapons to the Armenians so that now
they are doing their best to prepare themselves to
meet the enemy. It is a pathetic sight to see the
men in this mountain pocket doing what they can
to protect the city. A rather lawless band of Ar¬
menians called gamavoors has drifted into the
place. They are men from the region of Erzroom
and Everek, who were driven into exile in 1915,
and found nothing but ruined homes to greet them
on their return. Having neither families nor homes
they are ready to sell their services for a small sum
to any place needing help. Their leader is a man
who fought under the great Antranik in the Cau¬
casus. In many ways the coming of these men is
bad for the city for they have gained control of
the place and, despite the wishes of many of the
citizens, are harassing the Moslems of Hadjin and
those in the surrounding villages. It was one of
these men who frightened Ayesha's mother.
March
[123]
LETTERS
FROM CILICIA
March First
A letter came today from the bodvilli. Such
an experience as his party had! Not far from Sis
they were set on by bandits and fought for their
lives. Their horses were shot from under them
but the three men found a refuge in a deep cave
and for two hours held the enemy at bay. Just as
their ammunition was getting low a company of
friends from Sis, having received news of the fight,
arrived and rescued them. They reached Adana
safely but there is little that is hopeful to report
about troops being sent to Hadjin and the bodvilli
recognizes that the road back to us is closed. His
wife is frail, the result of her four years in exile,
and our hearts ache for her and her three dear
little boys. Yesterday, on our way home from
church, we saw men carrying great timbers—they
are using them in the fortification of the city. Our
Mennonite friends feel confident that no harm is
coming to Hadjin but we are not so sanguine.
March Third
The days go on with little real change. The
people of Shar, the village to the north of us, where
I had my interesting experience last September,
feel that they are on the line of march and will be
the first to be attacked. It is exceedingly cold and
there is still too much snow on the ground for the
whole village to be moved and what we could do
for
[124]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
for them if they come is another question. The
village of Yerabakan is in a panic. The bodvilli
from that place is here and begs us to receive his
people who have put together their few belongings,
waiting for permission to come to Hadjin. It is
agony to refuse but we are helpless.
As we go on with the daily round, our eyes
burn with unshed tears but our lips must smile. It
is an humbling experience to have the people show
such confidence and trust in us. For long years
America has been interpreted to them by devoted
missionaries and many of them think of America
as heaven and of Americans as heavenly minded.
They have some sad awakenings when they come
to our land—their land of heart's desire.
March Sixth
Edith said this morning that she wanted me to
see the field where the wild tulips will bloom later
—perhaps when that time comes we shall not be
able to ride there. So Peter and Haiyasdan were
saddled and we rode along the narrow path into
the city where we saw much terror in the faces of
the people. On past the ruined buildings we went,
meeting armed men at every turn, then in front of
the government buildings and across the little stone
bridge upon the Adana road where we let our
horses have a good canter. Presently we made a
turn to the right and followed a trail on the moun-
mountain
[125]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
tain side, Violets and cyclamen were in bloom
and spring whispered to us. When we reached
the place, which as yet showed no sign of flowers
hut where a few weeks from now there will he a
riot of color, we halted our horses. Suddenly a
man appeared from behind some rocks and, in re¬
ply to Edith's greeting, made hut a gruff answer.
We stayed for a few minutes looking off toward
distant mountains and then rode slowly home. I
asked Edith if she thought the man was a shepherd
and she replied, "He had no sheep." I have my
own theory about him.
March Tenth
The post came yesterday and there were several
letters for me. This morning we sent our mail as
usual hut word has come that the postman has been
shot and the mail hag taken. Edith was sending
her half yearly report to Constantinople and now
that is gone. It looks as if the Turks were begin¬
ning to shut us off. This evening I referred to our
meeting the strange appearing man on the moun¬
tain side and Edith said, "I knew he was a Turk
and I thought he might he a spy hut I didn't want
to alarm you." I replied, "I too thought he might
he a had character hut I decided not to suggest fear
to you." I really think our indifference to him was
our salvation.
March
[126]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
March Thirteenth
This has been a strange day. A cold rain has
been falling and I have been much depressed.
During the afternoon six or seven Armenians came
to consult Edith. They said that a telegram had
come from Fekke saying that if all the women and
children would go there they would be met by
French soldiers who would take them to Adana.
We talked this over rather as a matter of form for
we all knew that it was impossible. If there are
French troops at Fekke why do they not come to
Hadjin? We could not walk that distance in any
case. Of course it is a trap into which the Turks
hoped we would fall. "No," we said, "let us die
here rather than be slaughtered on the road." The
Mennonites and those in charge of the orphanage
at the vank felt as we did and a reply was sent de¬
clining the offer. Within an hour the connection
was cut and now we are shut off from the world.
The people are panic stricken and fear the worst.
One man is reported to have gone insane.
March Fourteenth
Today a woman in an almost crazed condition
came to the compound and begged to be allowed
to stay with us. Her husband is a tailor and she
has two children, one a baby. She used to be very
pretty but now she is all eyes and jumps at the
slightest sound. We are going to let this family
come
[127]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
come and live in a small room downstairs. In addi¬
tion to this family we have had another Turkish
girl put in our care—Hataje Hanum, the daughter
of the kadi. The mother came in great alarm this
morning because some of the Armenian soldiers
have been threatening the family. It would be bad
for the Armenians if this girl should be injured for
she is related to the Sheik ul Islam, the man who
declares a Jihad. The mother dared not bring her,
but this afternoon just at dusk. Torus, one of our
best Armenians, brought her to us. To avoid being
recognized as a Turk she came unveiled and not
wearing the charshaf.
March Fifteenth
I was in the kitchen this morning about eleven
o'clock heating milk for little Mary and Bayzar
when I heard great shouting and commotion. I
dashed out and saw the children and teachers look-
ink skyward, where high above us hummed an air¬
plane. Presently a package was dropped and, when
it was located not far from the compound, it was
taken to the government building. Some of the
children were quite unnerved by the strange sight
and one teacher who was in the class room fainted
when she heard the shouting for she thought the
Turks had come. Soon a report was brought to
us from the city. The package contained only mes¬
sages for the Armenians, nothing for us. There
was
[128]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
was a letter to the authorities telling them not to
give up hope for several thousand troops are on the
way and an airplane would come every two or three
days. I feel so heartened by the coming of the
plane because now I realize that the French can
protect us from the air. I don't believe the Turks
have anti-aircraft guns and we can be saved. The
letter said that if a safe place is indicated by a big
white cross, a landing will be made next time and
a conference held.
March Sixteenth
We rode up to the Mennonite compound, near
which there is a comparatively level space, and
saw hundreds of Armenians filling hollows and
marking out a huge cross with lime. Oh, that their
hopes and ours be not disappointed!
March Eighteenth
At about the same time as on Monday morn¬
ing the airplane again sailed overhead but much
higher than before and dropped nothing—made
no attempt to land and disappeared. What can it
mean? The children are good but they are so
frightened. Little Bayzar, one of our tiniest chil¬
dren, came to Miss Super with two paper piasters
saying they were to be used to buy cartridges. The
hardest thing for me is to have these babies so
acquainted with grief.
March
[129]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
March Twentieth
This afternoon we three took a little ride up
the mountain side on the road leading out of our
compound—the Marash road—to see if there were
any crocuses in bloom. We saw some sweet little
yellow blossoms peeping from the edge of the snow
patches that still linger and later, reaching the
shoulder of the mountain, we came on the Ar¬
menian guard stationed there. There are several
of these guards, each one numbering about twenty
men who are assigned to peaks where they can
watch the roads. The plan is to hold back the op¬
posing force if possible until additional men come
from the city. In the last extremity these com¬
panies will fall back on the city and their final
resort is to be the Gregorian school and the big
ruined stone church—two buildings standing close
together which are to be connected with a covered
way now under construction. On our way back we
met men coming to relieve those whom we had left
on the heights.
March Twenty-second
Again the airplane; all that happened was the
dropping of a small box of ammunition on the
landing field after which the plane faded into
the blue. We had a party planned for the graduat¬
ing class and it seemed wise to go on with it. The
party took the form of a dinner served by the sec-
second
[130]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
ond class girls and afterward we played games.
The girls have the habit of ending any kind of
gathering by singing a hymn. One of them chose
"A Never Failing Friend." It was difficult to
keep back the tears as their young voices swelled
out full of renewed hope and confidence.
March Twenty-seventh
The end of the week and no sign of help. The
promised troops have not materialized and I think
we have seen the last of airplanes. The city is
now well barricaded. Trenches have been dug and
at the different approaches there are barbed wire
entanglements and mined areas. There is a good
supply of guns and ammunition and they say they
have learned to make gas bombs. During the last
weeks, before the road to Adana was cut, the Ar¬
menians managed to prepare for an attack. This
afternoon a committee called, urging us to move
into Hadjin. The people can't understand our
attitude of neutrality. We explained, saying that
we are Americans on American property and that
in the event of the coming of the Turks we shall
raise the American flag and trust to our neutrality
to protect us. The head of the committee said,
"Don't trust to your being Americans to save you.
The Turks will cut you down with the Armenians."
"Possibly," we said, "but we shall offer no resis¬
tance." The men begged us to accept a guard but
this we emphatically declined.
March
[131]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
March Twenty-ninth
Early this morning we heard firing and so
know that the Turks are drawing in. The shots
seem to come from the other side of the city—the
plan must be to attack from the Adana road. We
have expected that the enemy would come from the
direction of Marash and, marching on toward the
city, would pass high above our compound and,
seeing our fiag, leave us untouched. Turks have
often said that it would be a sad day for them if
Hadjin Home were destroyed. For years they have
looked down on the compound from this road and
they would feel lost without it. Many a Turk has
received kindness at the hands of the missionaries
and the name of Mrs. Coifing, the veteran mission¬
ary, is remembered with great respect. We realize
this and trust that it will stand us in good stead in
the hour of peril. I am going to begin tonight
sleeping in the clinic house with the little girls.
The matron is panicky and refuses to stay outside
the wall.
March Thirtieth
The Mennonites sent us a note this morning
saying that from their windows they can see fight¬
ing which appears to be confined to little skir¬
mishes. From their height they look across the
Adana road and with field glasses can make out
men firing from behind large boulders.
March
[132]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
March Thirty-first
Every morning the firing begins about five
o'clock and keeps up intermittently during the
morning with very little in the afternoon. Again
men from the city came to see us and urged us to
send the children to Hadjin. We said that any
who had relatives in the town were at liberty to go
to them but as to the orphans whom we had taken
from the villages, we should decide for them. It
is a terrible responsibility for we can't know that
our judgment is sound. Teachers and children
have been told they are free to go or stay and with
no exception they have cast their lot with us. The
boys are in the factory building just inside the city's
boundary and we have not made up our minds*
about them.
April First
This afternoon Edith and I rode up to see how
the Mennonites were getting on. Yesterday they
sent word that a few bullets were coming into the
compound. They have allowed the Armenians to
use their property as a base and this draws the fire
on them. We question the wisdom of taking sides.
From what we could see there are no great num¬
bers of Turks and it may be they are wandering
bands—not villagers.
April
[133]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
April Third
It is Strange to think of what has happened
since Thursday afternoon. Yesterday morning
we received a note from Mr. Eby saying that the
Turks had increased in numbers and they had
wounded and scattered so many of the Armenians
that the latter were planning to fall back on the
city. One of the buildings in their compound had
been used as a dressing station for the wounded and
the orphans are no longer safe. They asked to
come to us with their children and workers. It
was not possible for them to travel their exposed
road into the city and then out to us by day, but they
planned to start as soon as it grew dark. Before
they came we moved our children from the clinic
building into the school house. The procession
arrived about half after seven, the children carry¬
ing their deosheks (thin mattresses) and yorghans
(comforters) on their backs, and following them
were two laden donkeys and a pack horse carrying
all the supplies possible. We think we have no
extra room at anytime but in some way we found
space for all. This morning we are trying to get
some order out of chaos. The direction from
which the firing comes has shifted and seems now
to be coming from our side. We can't make up
our minds about the boys in the factory building.
From the salaam luk windows we see Armenians
across the valley running along the mountain path
toward the city—they must see the Turks.
April
cm]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
April Fourth
How quickly circumstances change. By four
o'clock yesterday afternoon we could see the Turk¬
ish flag on a peak high above us—some days ago
the guard had abandoned this post—and rather
quick firing began. Although I suppose the shots
were aimed at the city, our compound, being be¬
tween the city and the Turks, received some of the
bullets. We decided that we must go at once to
our boys. Edith and I walked along our road, with
now and then a bullet striking the rock wall or the
path, and made our way into the city and to the
factory building. People at their doorways and in
the streets were all excitement and they shrieked
and moaned as they gathered together their belong¬
ings, preparatory to getting further from the out¬
skirts. How different was the sight that met our
eyes as we entered the building where the boys
were! There were eighty of them, the Mennonites
had left their twenty as they came to us on Friday,
and all were quiet as they knelt in the big room
with their teacher and silently prayed. We sat with
them a few minutes and then Edith and I looked at
each other and, as with one voice, we said, "If we
are to die, let us die together." The boys were
told that they were to wait until it was dark and
then they and their teacher were to come to the
compound, bringing what they could. We started
back alone—bullets fell on either side of us but we
were
[135]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
were untouched. A little after seven o'clock the
boys began to come. They made several return
trips to the city trying to clear the buildings but
they had to make haste as it is the time of the full
moon and by eight o'clock we knew the road would
be as light as day. While this work was going on,
a guard came from the city begging to come into
the compound to protect us. We refused and, dis¬
missing them, barred the big gate—the other three
were already locked—and announced that from
then on, we would have no communication with
the city and the city could have no communication
with us.
This morning is perfectly beautiful and it
seems strange to think danger is so near. About
nine o'clock we saw Setrak Effendi coming along
the road while bullets struck the ground near him.
On he came, with a kind of hop from side to side,
looking like a funny toad. Two of his little boys,
in the excitement last night, had joined our chil¬
dren in the compound and the father had come for
them. When he reached our gate he found shelter
in the lee of the clinic building. Edith called to
him and scolded him well for his foolishness. We
are ready to make an exception in his case and let
his little boys out, but it is impossible in broad day¬
light. The poor man is spending the day crouched
down inside the door waiting for darkness to fall.
April
[136]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
April Sixth
We have been in the valley of death since Sun¬
day, and I wonder if I can write of our experi¬
ences. I still feel stunned. All day Sunday more
and more bullets came into our compound and we
kept closely within doors. Yesterday morning we
rearranged the children a little. The long row of
windows in the school assembly room, which is in
full range of Hadjin, we barricaded with bedding
so firing from the city would not injure anyone
in that room. All of the school rooms are full of
children and at night they spread their little mat¬
tresses on the floor, packed in like sardines. When
we barred our gates Saturday evening, we had
already taken in a few refugee families who logi¬
cally belong to us as they live near the compound
and have been employed by us. With the excep¬
tion of Mr. and Mrs. Eby, two Armenian families
and Matteos, who are in the Martin house, the
rest of the company are in the main building and
the school. Yesterday morning it seemed to us
that more bullets hit the house than the day before
and we began to believe we were the target. At
ten o'clock Edith announced that she intended to
make a test trip to the other building. The mo¬
ment she appeared at the door there was sharp fir¬
ing. She didn't run a step of the way but walked
the hundred feet or so, all shots going wide of the
mark. Once inside the house, she ran to a window
and called to us saying that no one must stir out-
outside
[137]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
side and she could not come back. As the Ebys
were with her, this left Miss Super, Miss Brede¬
mas and me with all the children. There was a
certain amount of panic among the native people
but it was possible to calm them by word and a
quiet bearing. We could see from the big hay
window in the salaam luk a line of Turks coming
single file down the mountain side firing as they
came. It was strange but I didn't have any feeling
of fear and I know this was true of the other Amer¬
icans. This was no credit to us but it was a gift of
God which was granted us because we needed it.
I fully expected that I was to die but I recall hop¬
ing that I should be shot and not killed with a
knife. The people were pitiful in their fear but
they tried to hold themselves quiet as we told them
to. The men and boys were in the lower rooms
but the women and girls were up with us. I prayed
aloud that we might have faith in the power of God
and courage for whatever was in store for us. Miss
Bredemas then led in repeating the Lord's Prayer
in Turkish and we recited the shepherd's psalm
together. At any moment we expected the doors
would be broken in. Suddenly, as we waited
silently, there was a sharp knock and we heard
Edith calling, "Let Miss Clark come down and
unbar the door."
Now I must go back a few minutes to explain
what had happened in the other house. They, like
us, had watched a line of men coming down the
mountain
[138]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
mountain on their side, shooting as they came.
When two men, sent on in advance, arrived close
enough to call, they asked that someone come out
to the wall to speak to them. Mr, Eby and Matteos
met them and the Turks asked to be admitted to
the compound for a conference. This explains the
knock on our door. One of our matrons was in a
dead faint at the top of the stairs—she was moved
aside and I went down to draw the great wooden
staple from the iron loop that held it in place.
Edith greeted me with, "These are our friends."
The native people were quickly scattered to other
rooms and we six Americans, with the two Turks,
entered the salaam luk. Such unfriendly looking
men I have never seen. They were armed to the
teeth. They had six bands holding cartridges
around their bodies and several on each sleeve.
With guns in their hands, bombs hanging from
their belts and each with a knife stuck in a boot and
another through the belt, they were formidable
looking. After seating themselves, there was the
customary pause, then the salute and as soon as they
had lighted their cigarettes the interview began.
Edith, looking so small in the big chair in which
she sat, was quickly recognized by the Turks as the
one in charge. The Turk who began the conversa¬
tion assured us that he and his companions came as
friends and that the troops now surrounding Had-
jin are not our enemies. They are fighting the
French and not the Armenians unless they assist
the
[139]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
the French. When asked why the American flag
in our compound was not respected, the leader had
no reply ready but said the commander thought
armed men might be sheltered by it. The other
man then took his turn and asked what arms we
had. Edith went into the next room and brought
out our gun. "This," she said, "was given to me
in 1915 by Avne Bey (the military commander of
Hadjin at that time). He offered me five other
guns and all the ammunition I wanted. I have only
this one and no ammunition." After taking the
weapon and examining it, the Turk did not oiïer to
return it. Edith, drawing herself up with great
dignity and a look of surprise, said, "You could
hardly keep it, could you? It was given to me by
Avne Bey." It was returned immediately. Then
this man said that he and his companion, to be
sure that we had no armed men hidden away, must
search the premises. Edith again giving him a
piercing look, said, "You touch my honor. I am
an American—all that you need is my word." It
was strange to see this wild looking man with his
evil face, draw back saying, "Yes, yes, I know."
The two men soon rose and, after saluting, were
led out by Mr. Eby to the gate where two Turks,
higher in authority, were waiting to come in. They
stayed a few minutes and when they in turn left,
the one in command was announced. It seems to
be the custom to let subordinates try out the situa¬
tion first. This man who calls himself Jam Bey,
(bey
[140]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
(bey means prince) reiterated his friendship for
Americans. He said that we and those in our care
should not he harmed. He asked to see the Mos¬
lem girls and we had them come in, the two older
ones veiled. We were surprised that he knew they
were here hut from some of his remarks it was evi¬
dent that, hy means of spies, very little that had
gone on in the city had escaped him. Edith told
Jam Bey that we were responsible to the American
Government for the people in our compound
because the soil is American. Jam did not speak
of troops on other sides of the city hut said that he
should attack from our side and that it would he
only a matter of a few hours—twenty-four at the
longest—before the city would he taken. Edith told
him that we are neutral and that we have nothing
to do with them nor with the city hut, as Armenian
soldiers have not been allowed to use the compound
as a place from which to fight, the Turks also must
respect our attitude. Jam Bey assenting, left. By
the way, he declined coffee when it was offered,
thinking, I presume, that it was poisoned. In half
an hour earth works were thrown up across the
road seventy-five feet from our front gate and a
little way down the mountain side and the firing
began in earnest. You can see in what a position
we are placed, serving as a hack stop for the Had-
jin bullets. Fortunately the rear of our compound
is much lower than the front so there is some space
where we can move about with a feeling of com-
comparative
[141]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
parative safety. The Turks have established their
headquarters in the deserted parsonage in line with
their barricade and they are beginning to put up
some slight shelters.
It is becoming evident to them that the taking
of the city is to be more than a question of a day.
Yesterday morning seems a long time ago and we
have no idea what will happen from hour to hour.
I plan to keep this record going although you may
never see it. It is some relief to my feelings to put
down on paper events as they occur.
April Eighth
One of our perplexities is the feeding of our
stock. The Ebys brought with them their flock of
goats and two cows as well as a donkey and three
horses. With all of our own animals, it is a prob¬
lem to care for them. We have very little feed
and, as we cannot send them out of the compound
to graze, we fear they will die. This applies to
the goats and sheep particularly, as we have some¬
thing for the others. Our own goats are in our new
fold just outside the Marash gate. It is diiïïcult
to get to them with food and water when the bul¬
lets are coming from Hadjin and we are none too
confident of the promises of the Turks not to take
them. We are now all living in the main house
and school building. We have the little children
down in the kindergarten rooms and, as the build¬
ing is on a side hill, this brings their exit on the
ground
[142]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
ground, although they are three stories below the
main part. So far the Turks are respecting our
wishes and only enter the compound after knock¬
ing and waiting for the gate to be unlocked. The
gate through which they come is out of sight of
Hadjin and a very low one, so that to enter it they
must bend nearly double. There are more men
stationed around us and they seem to be putting up
some kind of tents. Poor Oriort Berjouee and her
helpers are put to it to get the meals for our people.
We are fortunate in having a large quantity of
wheat, but boiled wheat and nothing else is an im¬
possible diet.
The fat is almost gone and with no meat and
nothing green we feel anxious. The American
food is low but someway, I feel sure, we can man¬
age, We have some canned goods and we were for¬
tunate in getting a supply of sugar shortly before
the roads were closed. Mohammed, the little
Kurdish waif who came with the Mennonite or¬
phans, is very ill. He is terribly frightened when
he hears the shooting. He keeps saying, "Give
them bread and they will go," his thought being
that, according to oriental custom, they cannot
harm us after accepting food from our hands.
Naturally frail, I think he will not live long.
April Tenth
We have again faced death. After breakfast,
when I was in the American kitchen trying to plan
our
[143]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
our midday meal, I heard a sound of angry talk¬
ing and ran out the back way. Some of the chil¬
dren were huddled near the door saying in fright¬
ened tones. "Oh! Oh! Islam, Miss Clark." Not
knowing what they meant, I walked toward the
little gate and saw Edith and Mr. Eby talking with
some Turks who were evidently much excited. Of
course I could do nothing so I started back to the
house where some of the older girls met me, say¬
ing that Turks were coming in at another gate and
over the wall. Our wall is really no protection, it
simply indicates the limits of our land. During
the war it fell into ruin in many places and has not
been repaired. I called to Miss Bredemas and we
went to meet the intruders. Miss Bredemas could
talk with them and found they had made up their
minds to hunt the Armenians out. I ran back to
where Edith was and told her. One of the leaders
went with me and ordered the men out. They went
unwillingly.
To get to the point, the leader said they were
not satisfied with conditions and, to make sure we
spoke the truth, they should search the place. He
said that if three guns were found, every American
would be shot at once. Before the search we were
ordered to prepare a complete list of everyone in
the compound; so many men, women, girls and
boys, giving their nationality. We had only a little
time to do this and it was difiicult. We gave our
list; the people were all called into the big dining
room
[144]
LETTERS FROM C 1 L 1 C 1 A
room downstairs and marched past two of the
Turks. The poor things were panic stricken, cer¬
tain that they were to be massacred then and there.
We felt anxious as the numbering went on but at
the end, the count of the Turks and our list were
practically alike, a difference of only two.
Then began the search of the premises. One
man started to enter Mrs. Eby's room but when he
was told that a dead child was there he turned
away. Dear little Mohammed died early this
morning and we are thankful the terror is over for
him. The searching was very thorough but it had
a funny side too for the men would insist on crawl¬
ing into the most impossible places and then were
so annoyed when they tore their clothes. At last,
after discovering nothing, they left but their atti¬
tude was not friendly. Edith and Mr. Eby went
with them to the gate and I have just been hearing
what happened. Edith said she couldn't let the
man who had been most angry and determined in
the search, leave in such a mood. She turned to
him and said, "Achmet, you have a future in the
world and I have a future and we must live
together in this world. How can we go on if there
is hatred in our hearts?" She put out her hand
and laid it on his shoulder. It wasn't pleasant for
he was dirty but, holding her hand there and look¬
ing straight into his eyes, she said solemnly, "By
this touch, I make you my brother. Now, if you
are my brother and I am your sister, we must do
good
Ci«]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
good to one another and not evil." Achmet looked
at her and, as if her touch had magic in it, his face
softened and, gazing at her, he replied, "It is in
truth so." Then he went out with the others. We
have but one weapon, goodness. With it we must
overcome evil. Edith says that we shall have sev¬
eral days of peace as the Turks always suffer a
reaction and they will now try to propitiate us ; that
is if they run true to form.
April Eleventh
My birthday! How strange it seems. I wonder
if I shall ever have another on the earth. The day
has been clear and beautiful and we have had no
trouble from the Turks. By the way. Jam Bey
says we are "guests of the chettes." He says most
of his men are not regular soldiers but chettes.
You remember that I told you that Matteos
was brought up by a Moslem uncle so that he has
many friends among the Turks and, as he received
the education of a scribe, he is known as Edith's
secretary as well as the steward. He writes very
high Turkish and that is a great help when notes
have to be sent. A preaching service is being held
just now in the lower part of the building but there
is no singing for fear that the Turks may hear and
be angered. My duty is to keep watch in the com¬
pound and every half hour I make my rounds. I
have just come back from the little gate. Every-
Everything
[146]
LETTERS FROM CILÍCIA
thing is quiet. I could see Turks above me and a
few were not far from the gate. They are not tak¬
ing the city with the,ease they anticipated. Edith
and I sleep in the office, she on the couch and I on
two mattresses on the floor. We are in the front of
the house but the clinic building shields us from
bullets from Hadjin. We don't dare to have lights
because we may be accused of signaling to the city.
We do light a candle for a few minutes but not
until the shades are closely drawn and pillows
piled up to cover any crack. Even then, the tiny
light is kept in a corner of the room.
April Twelfth
Last night we changed our plans a bit and
Edith and I are going to take turns in sleeping
downstairs with the little children. None of the
matrons will go down because they are frightened.
I went last night when darkness came on and the
children gave sighs of relief when they saw me
coming down the stairs. Their feeling of safety
when an American is near is touching. Some who
were sobbing were quickly hushed when I said,
"Miss Clark is here, you need not fear."
"Evet, evet," (yes) they replied, settling down on
their beds. We haven't the same tongue but they
understand my meaning.
The sounds of fighting seem nearer in these
lower rooms and the shouting of "Allah, Allah,"
is
[147]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
is quite dreadful. Some of the little children moan
in their sleep and start up in terror when the shoot¬
ing is especially violent. Little Mariam, who is
five years old, began to vomit from sheer fright.
When I went to her, knelt beside her and put my
hand on her forehead, saying, "Go to sleep Mar¬
iam, I am beside you—nothing shall hurt you"—
the little thing quieted and immediately went to
sleep. It is a touching experience to see such
trust.
About noon a present of youghoort was sent us
from the commander and later he called. He said
nothing about the trouble on Saturday but he is in
this way begging our pardon.
April Thirteenth
Miss Super is helping both the Turks and our
cause tremendously. She has daily clinics ät the
little gate for the Turks where she gives medicines
and dresses wounds. They come asking for the
doctor and we encourage the use of the title. There
is a Turkish doctor but he seems to know little and,
still more to the point, has apparently no medi¬
cines. He has sent, asking for various kinds and
Miss Super has given very small amounts. Some
of our people do not like it that we are establish¬
ing friendly relations with the Turks and resent
the doing of favors. They don't understand that
the more we can do for them, the better it will be
for
[148]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
for our compound. The officers send in coffee to
be browned and ground and we are glad to do it
but it was a bit surprising to have a pair of boots
to be blacked. We have frequent requests for salt.
To our callers, who wish to light their cigarettes,
we offer a box with very few matches, hoping that
they will conclude our stock is low. We were
wise enough to have one of the girls hide all our
kerosene so that when that was called for, we could
truthfully say we had none. One of the soldiers
said, in the naive way common to the race, that
they wanted to fire the city and wanted the kero¬
sene for that purpose. There are many requests to
see the Turkish girls but we refuse. The men
know they should not ask to see Turkish women
so they don't press the matter and it really counts
in our favor that we are protecting them.
I wish I could picture to you the "army" as
we see it. The officers have uniforms of sorts but
the men are in their ordinary dress—tattered, torn
and dirty. We look out at The parsonage and see
them lying about in the shelter of the building.
Some are on the porch on our side. They have, bit
by bit, been destroying the house to get firewood.
I am looking for the day when they shall have
taken so much from the underpinning of the porch
that it will fall. It is a strange sight to see the rows
of guns hanging on the wall and some of the most
devout Moslems prostrating themselves toward
Mecca. The officers are in tents higher up on the
mountain
[149]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
mountain but the common soldiers are very close
to us. Of course there is a man in charge, a petty
officer, hut it is not pleasant to think what might
happen if the men got out of hand.
They are beginning to strip the clinic house
just outside our gate and we have seen two doors
and several windows going up the mountain on
the hacks of the men. We protest in notes of Mat-
teos's best Turkish hut don't dare say too much.
Just now there are, at a guess, about two hundred
men stationed here. They have begun to construct
semi-permanent tents. The stone walls along the
Marash road are being pulled down—they do this
at night—to make the low sides, and cloth woven
from black goat's hair makes the covering. The
food outlook for our people is bright. You see,
the Turkish farmers have always supplied Hadjin.
Now that market is closed to them and they come
around the shoulder of the mountain to our side.
The soldiers requisition what they want hut they
let us buy provisions too. The farmers get more
from us, so there is often a tapping at the gate after
dark and hags are passed through, to he paid for
later. Our money is almost gone hut with our
holts and holts of cloth—for which the men are
eager—we shall he better able to bargain than with
gold. I just looked out of the window and saw
two men climb up on the sloping roof of the par¬
sonage, crouch there and fire toward the city.
They keep saying they are going to make a rush
attack
[1501
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
attack but they hold ofif, having real fear of the
Armenians whom they know will put up a des¬
perate fight.
April Fourteenth
Yesterday we had an agonizing time. We have
had permission to let some of the little hoys take
the goats and cows out on the slope hack of the
compound for grazing, the Turks promising not
to molest them. They go in the morning and one
of the Americans watches from the wall while they
are outside. Yesterday, through some misunder¬
standing, three of the hoys went out with the goats
in the afternoon. They wandered too far to the
side and bullets from Hadjin came near them. One
hoy was slightly wounded and fled to the gate while
the other two, in terror, started up the mountain
slope. One recovered himself hut the other went
on and, when the report reached us, this last one
was lost to sight. Edith announced she would at
once go in search of him. I wanted to go with her
hut she said, "No, the hoy will he frightened and
will need assurance in his own language to he will¬
ing to start hack. I will go, hut not alone for I
shall take Achmet with me." He is the Turk you
will recall whom Edith won over the other day.
He has proved himself our friend, for he has kept
the men under him in control since that terrible
day.
Edith
tisi]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
Edith called to him, for he was not far away,
and he at once responded. She said, "Achmet,
there is a little boy lost on the mountain side. I
am going in search of him and you must go with
me." His immediate response was, "I will." I
can't tell you how we felt as we stood watching
them make their way over the rocks. Presently
they reached a certain place and stopped, Edith
going on alone. We didn't understand what it
meant until afterward, when she explained that,
realizing they had climbed so high that they could
be seen from Hadjin and that Achmet's white tur¬
ban would mark him as a Moslem, she told him
to go no further. "You stay here," she said, "and
I will go on but keep your eyes on me and, if I
call, you must follow." Achmet stood at her bid¬
ding and on she went. At the sound of a bullet she
darted back of a rock instinctively, although know¬
ing that she would be shot before she heard the
strike of the missile ; then on again until she finally
disappeared back of a big rock. After a few min¬
utes she came in sight again, this time with the boy.
She said afterward that the child was almost un¬
conscious from fear but she comforted him. When
she had calmed him he said, "I can't go, for my
arkadash (companion) is wounded. I must find
him." "No," said Edith, " he is safe in the com¬
pound and I have come for you." Down the
mountain side they ran, seeking shelter back of
rocks
[1521
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
rocks and we stood watching with our hearts in our
mouths. They reached the place where Achmet
waited and then the three came safely back to us.
As they entered the gate, Achmet was carrying
Edith's rubbers. She remarked to us, "I thought
he might as well be useful." You can understand
how odd it seemed, for orientals are not in the habit
of carrying burdens of any kind for a woman.
Edith is always mistress of the situation.
April Fifteenth
We are fortunate in having our big oven in the
compound. It is near the little gate where we let
the Turks in and out. We have arranged it so that
the baking can go on. We use a thousand of the
small flat loaves every week to feed our people.
We dare not let Abraham, our baker, show him¬
self but three of the women go to the oven and we
Americans take turns in guarding them. They
bake from six in the morning until six at night and
four of us divide the time into two hour watches.
Edith and Mr. Eby must be free to meet the Turks.
We expect that three days a week, possibly four,
will provide sufficient bread. This morning, as I
was taking my turn, several Turks seated them¬
selves on the hillside about twenty feet from the
gate. I didn't find it especially amusing when one
man raised his gun and pointed it in my direction.
I don't believe he had any intention of shooting
me
[153]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
me but I had a curious feeling along my spinal
column. I think I have told you that all foreigners
are called "hat wearers," so when we go out doors,
even for a minute, we always wear our hats in order
that no Turk at a distance may mistake us for
natives. I call my hat my "helmet of salvation."
We have to act as if Americans were bullet proof
for there are certain things to he done that we alone
can do.
Several days have gone by since I last wrote
hut I have had no free moment. The constant
work is good; it gives less time to think. There
have been several changes. There is a new man
in charge—Jevan Bey. He has called twice and
seems much superior to Jam Bey. He has asked
about the Moslem girls and it was best to have
them come to the salaam luk. Jevan seems much
pleased that they are safe with us. We think it
must he the open season for heys, there are so many
of them, although we have pur doubts as to their
claim to the title. The man in charge of the ma¬
chine guns is Enver Bey. He comes frequently
to see us and enjoys telling big stories about him¬
self. These different men in authority who call on
us, all have assumed names. Enver told Mr. Ehy
that many of them have prices set on their heads.
Part of the men are from the old Turkish Fourth
Army Corps. One day when the doctor, a most
disagreeable man called, he hesitated when asked
his
[154]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
his native city and then said, "Bitlis." The men
with him glanced at one another and we knew it
wasn't true.
April Sixteenth
Enver and Jevan have each asked that our
tailor make them suits from some of our material.
We can only say "Yes."
April Seventeenth
It is raining hard and we hope we shall have no
callers. They are so apt to choose meal hours—
their times of eating are not ours—and Edith and
Mr. Eby have to visit with them. Sometimes Mrs.
Eby or Miss Bredemas relieve the situation but
Miss Super and I cannot help, not having Turkish
tongues. We sit with the others many times but
all we can do is to look pleasant. The latter has
its use possibly for the other day Jevan Bey asked
Edith, "Is Miss Clark always happy?" We cer¬
tainly don't intend them to imagine we are fright¬
ened. One of the recent calls of Jevan was to ask
for medicine for Enver who is very ill with dysen¬
tery. It is difBcult to prescribe at a distance and
Enver has been asked to come down to the clinic
house where Miss Super can care for him. Last
night he was carried down the mountain, a very
sick man. Miss Super can get to the door of the
building
[155]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
building without coming in range of Hadjin and
we feel there is a kind of safety in having Enver
in the building. The stealing of doors and win¬
dows will have to cease for a time. If Enver
should not get well we may perhaps be suspected
of causing his death but, if he recovers, he will have
to show his gratitude by befriending us.
April Nineteenth
One of our boys, Hosep, is ill and Miss Super
has him in her room. He has pneumonia and does
not respond to remedies. Poor boy! He is suffer¬
ing from terror as well and every time the cannon
booms, he cries out. This morning Jevan came to
call and stayed a long time. He had a plan to pro¬
pose. He wants some of the Americans to go to
Hadjin and present the Turkish terms. He says
the Turks will proclaim an armistice of five hours,
from nine in the morning until two in the after¬
noon, and during that time the Americans will go
along the road carrying an American and a truce
flag. We were asked to consider the matter and
send a reply in the afternoon. That reply has just
gone. It has been difficult to know what to say.
The terms are these : the Armenians are to deliver
all arms and ammunition to a group of responsible
Turks (are there any such?) who will receive
them. In the meantime the troops will be sent up
the mountain, far enough away for the city to
feel
[156]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
feel no fear of attack. The arms, once delivered,
will be stored in some building and then the French
flag, having been hauled down, the leaders will
march their troops past the city and on to Sis, leav¬
ing only a few men to guard the arms. This lock¬
ing up of arms is to insure no firing on the rear of
the Turkish forces and the promise is, that "Not
so much as a nose shall bleed in Hadjin." Mat-
teos and Minas were called in and the matter dis¬
cussed from all sides. The two men naturally feel
no confidence in the Turkish promises. We would
all be glad to know how the Armenians are
getting on in the city but the journey is fraught
with peril. The Turks will have to be trusted to
respect the armistice and it will be impossible to
communicate with the people in the city to let them
know the plan. However, it has been decided that
Edith and Mr. Eby will go and we are looking
forward to tomorrow with solemn feelings.
April Twentieth
At nine o'clock the two started. Jevan was
here at half after eight to see them off. It is clearly
understood that the Americans will give no advice
and, keeping strictly neutral, they will simply act
as mouthpieces for the Turks. After receiving the
Armenians' reply, they will return, having told the
Armenians nothing of the Turkish situation, nor
bringing to the Turks any news of conditions in the
city.
[157]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
city. This has been made clear to the Turks. I
cannot express my feelings as I saw our friends set
out;—Edith, looking so tiny as she walked swiftly
along carrying the white flag and Mr. Eby holding
the American one that has the heavier standard.
They did not return as quickly as we expected and
the agony of suspense was great. Many weeks ago,
before the Turks came, one of the wild gamavoors
had threatened Edith's life when she remonstrated
against some of the cruelties practised on the Mos¬
lems in the city. Finally the two were seen re¬
turning and the tension was lessened. The reply
they brought was what we expected. The Armen¬
ians would not treat with the Turks. Jevan came
to the compound at once and expressed great dis¬
appointment. He says the fighting will now go
on with renewed energy and, when the city is taken,
if it is found that any Moslems have been killed
the entire Armenian population will be massacred
and not one stone left standing on another. When
we were once again alone we heard in detail the
condition of the city. The place is well fortified
and there is a good supply of ammunition. They
plan to refill shells as they have materials at hand.
There hiave been some deaths among our friends
and some have been wounded. The food supply
is sufficient but there is little variety. The people
have not lost courage. They cannot accept the
terms because they have known too many cases in
the
[158]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
the past when the giving up of arms has been the
signal for a massacre.
April Twenty-first
About four o'clock this afternoon Hosep died.
It was pitiful to watch him struggle for breath at
the last. Dear little fellow, I am so thankful he is
at peace. We have no material for making any
kind of a coffin so we did as the natives sometimes
do, wound the body in lengths of cloth. We bound
it with tape to a board and carried it by a back way
so that, if possible, the Turks might not see us and
went out of the valley gate a few feet to a shallow
grave that had been dug in the hard ground. The
three boys we took with us found large flat stones
and, following the custom of the Armenians, cov¬
ered the grave with. them.
April Twenty-second
This morning when I went over to the other
house to get some cans of vegetables (we keep most
of our supplies in the basement there), bullets
whizzed over my head and it wasn't especially
agreeable to see two Turks sitting on the wall not
far from the door when I entered. We are deso¬
lated over the felling of the trees. The valley on
the far side from the school was always so pretty
with lovely trees of which there are not many in
this
[159]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
this part of the country. I think if the men would
cut them down at the roots I would mind it less—
but they hack away, getting what branches they
want for fuel at the time and then, after several
days, they finally bring down what remains of the
tortured tree. The Turks seem to have vandalism
in the blood. The men are so careless that, some¬
times as I sit on guard at the oven and watch them,
it looks as if they would cut the branch on which
they sit from under them and I am bad enough to
hope they will. The few houses on the hillside be¬
longing to our people have been destroyed.
April Twenty-fourth
We are so thankful that we have had no sick¬
ness caused by conditions in the compound. We
have tried our best to keep things sweet and clean
but it has been a problem. We have no plumbing;
our drinking water comes from a spring piped into
the compound and also from a well. We have
only outside closets and underground drainage that
leads down the slope back of the compound. The
rear of the row of closets forms part of the com¬
pound wall. We have always had a woman em¬
ployed to do the cleaning three times a week. Now
we have almost twice our usual number of people
and we feel great anxiety. Our lime is almost gone
and although, for a short time, our shepherd and
one of the big boys tried to do the outside work,
guarded
[160]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
guarded by an American, this is no longer possible.
We must keep all big boys out of sight for again
the Turks accuse us of having men secreted in the
buildings and again our people have been counted,
Edith and I have evolved this scheme which was
tried for the first time this morning: we get up
at five o'clock and, remembering to put on our hats,
go to the valley gate where two little boys, who
can't be mistaken for men, are waiting with
wooden hoes. We unbar the gate and, keeping near
the wall, walk to where the work is to be done.
Edith superintends the boys and I stand with my
back to them watching the mountain side for hos¬
tile Turks. This morning several men went along
one of the paths carrying their guns but they
merely looked at us. We have a feeling that if
Americans are looking they will not shoot—if our
backs are turned we are not so confident. We
were back in the compound in twenty minutes and
we hope to make better time tomorrow.
April Twenty-fifth
It is almost seven weeks since we have heard
anything from the outside. We can't help wonder¬
ing why the French do not come to the relief of
the city. They must know our plight. Jevan Bey,
a day or two ago, showed us a letter that was
dropped from the airplane that second time when
we received nothing. It was meant for the Ar-
Armenians
[161]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
menians but fell far from the city and was picked
up by a Turk. It had no encouraging word, for
our bodvilli who wrote it, said the force that had
been sent out had turned back. I should suppose
in some way our government and England would
help. Four of us are Americans and two are Can¬
adians. Of course I know nothing of what is hap¬
pening in the world but it does seem strange. One
of the hardest things to bear is that I can do noth¬
ing to relieve your anxiety. If you could only
know that I am well.
April Twenty-sixth
Last night one of the load animals was stolen.
We reported the matter to Jevan and he said he
would have the animal restored to us and the
offender punished. We know this will not be done.
Really he has very little control over his men and
we plan to keep some one on watch at night. We
have found a way to arrange the children so that
the little ones no longer have to be in the lower
rooms. We have closed the trap door leading
down there and many of the children sleep in the
halls and passages.
April Twenty-eighth
As I wrote the last sentence Monday, one of
the children ran in saying, in excited tones, that
there was a great pounding on the little gate. As
usual
[162]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
usual Edith and Mr. Eby went to see what was
the trouble. Edith later told me that on arriving
at the gate the pounding grew louder and a surly
voice demanded entrance. The gate was unlocked
and there stood a bandit leader, Gezik Duran and
eight of his men. As I have told you, much of the
fighting force is made up of bandits. Each chief
has one hundred men under him and they take
their orders from him. These men feel no respon¬
sibility to men like Jevan. They are here simply
for the loot and the fact that the city holds out so
successfully makes them restive. We know seven
of these chiefs and this man has an exceedingly
bad reputation. Gezik means secret or hidden so
he is Secret Duran. He is the one, we have been
told, who held up the bodvilli and his companions
on the Adana road. Edith said to the leader,
"Why do you ask so roughly to come in? We are
glad to see our friends but they ask courteously for
admittance." The men looked defiant and stalked
in holding their guns. Edith said, "Our guests
have learned to trust us and leave their weapons
at the gate." Gezik responded, "No, our guns are
our lives, they never leave us." Then he added,
"We want to hear the music." We have found the
victrola a great aid in entertaining the men and
its fame has spread. The bandits, marching single
file, followed the path and went up stairs to the
salaam luk. They solemnly seated themselves,
each man holding his gun. There was a little con-
conversation
[163]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
versation first, Gezik asking if we came from "rot¬
ten" or "sound" America. The Turks call South
America "rotten" because there are no questions
nor examinations as to disease for those coming to
its shores. Then the records were put on the vic-
trola. You can imagine that the strange attitude
of our visitors did not add to our comfort. Edith
said to me—she could always bring in an aside
when translating—"I don't know what they intend
but I fear it is nothing good." Gezik turned to
Mr. Eby and asked the time. It was nearly five.
Turning to a man near him, Gezik said, "Wait for
the first boom." We always learned in advance of
an attack on the city, either through the common
soldiers or the officers, and we knew that one was
on for that day. It is usually at the close of the
afternoon that the firing begins in earnest. We
glanced at one another. The others looked white
and I felt white. Mr. Eby continued to put on
records. Suddenly the cannon boomed. The men
straightened themselves, tightening their hands on
their guns. Gezik glanced at them and said, "Wait
until the second boom." Mr. Eby played on. We
discovered afterward, that we each had the same
idea. We thought that Gezik's plan was, either to
hold us prisoners in the room and work his will in
the compound, or to kill us and then be free to do
what he wanted. We tried to appear natural. At
the second boom the men were again at attention
and looked toward their leader. Yet again Gezik
said
[164]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
said, "No, wait for the third." The medley of
American airs that was being played sounded to
me like our death knell. When the cannon thun¬
dered, Gezik rose, the men did the same and, with¬
out a glance at us, they filed out of the room and
down the stairs, Mr. Eby following to let them out
at the gate. Although we then realized that they
were only waiting for the sound of guns to take
their places in the firing line, we could not help
having nervous chills. This is the way we live
from day to day, never feeling sure of what is to
come.
May First
It is wonderful to have so much cloth to use in
barter. As long as conditions remain as they are,
we need fear no food shortage. It is really amus¬
ing that now, surrounded by enemies, we live much
higher than we did before. Gone are the days
when we rarely had eggs enough to use in cooking,
none to eat boiled or fried. Now we have dozens
and dozens offered for sale and we pay with yards
of cloth.
There is a Turk who comes often to the gate
bringing flour for bread to be baked for some of
the Turks. We have to do this in addition to bak¬
ing for our own big family. We can't refuse but
we are thankful that they provide their own flour.
This man, of whom I spoke, we have grown to like.
He
[165]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
He goes by the name of "Young Ali" but we call
him the "Englishman." He was a prisoner of the
British in Egypt and he picked up a few words that
he loves to use. He likes to come in and sit down
near the American on duty. When I am there or
Miss Super he says all the English words he knows
and to those who know Turkish is most communi¬
cative. We get some idea as to the temper of the
men. Ali is soon going to have leave of absence
for a few days and he promises to bring us several
things, among them a good fat hen.
I have spoken of the different kinds of men
stationed near us. As the days go on we get a word
here and a word there that throws some light on
the situation. Many of the men are here against
their will. They have been beaten and threatened
and forced to join the fighting. Many of them are
not unfriendly to the Armenians but are under the
domination of their leaders. Several have said,
"We have no heart in this. We have friends in
Hadjin among the Armenians. Why should we
kill them? We want to go back to our homes. All
that we have will be lost, for only the women and
small children are in our villages." They are such
poor ignorant creatures we feel pity for them.
More and more it is borne in upon me that the one
thing needed and the one thing lacking in this
country that will bring peace, is love, one for the
other. This jealousy, this fear which is in the
hearts of the Turks and Armenians alike, this hate,
is
[166]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
is too frightful to contemplate. Some inner change
must take place in the hearts of all these people in
this tortured land before lasting, real peace can
come. Certainly it has been proved that thunder¬
ing cannon do not insure concord. Sometimes I
wonder if we are going to have a tiny share in
bringing this to pass. Jevan seems to have a good
heart and lately he has shown increased friendli¬
ness. The other day he said, "After this trouble
is over I want my children to come to this school.
I want them in your care." This is nothing to tie
to but it is a crumb of comfort. We cling to every
hope.
Later—Enver has just called and brought us
some wild flowers. We have longed to go out on
the mountain side which we know is carpeted with
blossoms. Edith is so disappointed not to have me
go to the chatak to see the wild hyacinths that blos¬
som especially luxuriantly there.
May Second
Some relatives of Hataje's have come to see
her, bringing a letter from her grandfather in Al-
bistan asking us to send her to him. We are re¬
lieved to have her go for she is a great responsi¬
bility. We are getting her ready, concocting a
proper Turkish costume out of some cloth we have.
She must go suitably veiled and in the right kind
of a garment.
May
[167]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
May Third
One of the Eby's cows was shot and killed by a
Hadjin bullet this morning. The animal is in an
exposed place but Enver has promised to send some
men for it after dark and to give us a share of the
meat. Both of our big dogs have been shot by
stray bullets. Jevan made one of his long calls
this afternoon and he offered to let our Kurdish
shepherd boy take our goats and sheep to Roomloo,
a Turkish village five hours' journey from here. It
is their only chance and we have decided to accept
the offer. The fact that the lad is a Kurd makes
him safe and we shall have to trust to the promise
that we shall have our flocks back later. We are
going to send with them two cows, one of which
has been wounded, leaving one for our use. We
think we can manage food for her.
May Fourth
Miss Super's work has been of great value to
the compound for the Turks constantly come ask¬
ing for her services. She has used almost all of
her medicines and it has worried us all. We need
them for our people and for the Turks to hold their
friendship. Edith told Jevan about our lack and
he said he would send a man to Talas with a note
from Miss Super to the Americans there, asking
for what is needed. Any word sent must be in
Turkish. It takes three days to go to Talas so we
can't
[168]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
can't look for the messenger's return in less than
a week. We hope that the Talas people will read
between the lines and will send a reply that will
let us know if any help can be expected.
May Fifth
Our flour supply is very low. As I said, we
have plenty of wheat but we have no chance to
have it ground. Jevan has said that when we need
flour he will send to Roomloo and buy us some, we
naturally furnishing the money, but Edith told him
that if he would get a millstone for us—^we already
have one—we could manage.
May Eighth
I am writing this as I take my turn in guarding
the oven. Yesterday we had another horror and I
still feel shaken by it. About two o'clock I went
out to the ironing room, in the building back of our
main one, to press some collars. We get used to the
sound of firing but, as I was doing my pressing,
there was a loud report and I thought a bullet had
come into the room. Christina rushed in crying,
"Oh, Miss Clark, one of the boys has been shot."
I hurried out and, there on the path that leads to
the spring, I saw Edith leaning over a little body
on the ground. She called to me, "Let no natives
come out of the house." Mr. Eby had gone to the
big gate to call Enver from the clinic house and
the
[169]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
the rest of us stood by the little child. It was our
dear little Sachian who lay like a broken flower
with his head in an ever increasing pool of blood.
Edith had reached the spot so soon after the shot
that she saw two men running from the wall and
recognized them as two Kurds, surly men, who
have been making trouble for some days. Sachian
was such a gay little fellow that we all loved him.
Of course he should not have gone on the path, for
it was forbidden, but he saw the little donkey tied
by the wood shed and jumped on for a ride. It
was on the return trip that the cowards shot him
in the back of the neck. One of the children in
a doorway heard him cry, "Oh mother, I am
killed." Then he fell from the donkey's back.
Enver came quickly with Mr. Eby and we six
Americans and the one Turk stood by the body.
Edith said, "Enver Bey, you must stand beside us
and protect us for we shall bury our little boy at
once." All about us on the mountain side the
Turks were looking down. Twice, as we stood
there, Enver lifted his hands in protest and he told
us afterwards that some of the soldiers were aiming
their guns at us. Again the lengths of cotton cloth
came into use and we wrapped our little Lad for
his long sleep. In the meantime, Enver called two
Turks and ordered them to stand by the small boys
who dug the grave just outside the gate. We
felt the Turks would not risk killing any of their
brothers. After it was all over. Miss Super and I
worked
[170]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
worked at the place where there was the pool of
blood trying to break up the hard earth and cover
the spot. Despite our efiforts, the dark blot remains
and a shudder goes through me as I pass it on my
way to and from my watch.
Jevan came to call and, although he said little
about yesterday's tragedy, he stayed for three hours
and, as the longer the call the greater the courtesy,
it was his way of begging our pardon.
May Tenth
One year ago today I reached Hadjin. A
strange anniversary! The man brought the mill¬
stone this afternoon and the plan which has been
worked out was put into operation at once. We
have two small coffee grinders and they are to be
used also. First a shift of six boys ; two for each
mill and one for each grinder. They work for
two hours and then six girls relieve them. This
we plan to have go on day and night.
May Twelfth
The medicines have come from Talas. Several
letters came and Jevan brought them to us although
they were in English. The letters tell of every
day matters but nothing to indicate that they rea-
realize
[171]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
lize our situation. Indeed, it is suggested that
some of us go there for a little vacation. It is in¬
explicable. Jevan says he will send any letters and
telegrams we want him to if they are first translated
to him. We know there is no truth in his offer.
May Thirteenth
Edith has suggested to Jevan from time to time,
that she would be glad to receive Doghan Bey who
is said to be the Commander in Chief of the forces
around Hadjin. Always there has been some rea¬
son why this could not be; he was inspecting the
outposts ; he was called to Sis ; until we had begun
to think he was a myth and even that Jevan and
Doghan were one and the same. Yesterday Jevan
called with the proposition that another visit to
Hadjin be made by the Americans. This time a
conference between the Turks and Armenians was
to be requested. It seemed to us that if such a
thing was to be considered, Doghan Bey must call
on us and make the proposal himself. Jevan prom¬
ised to see what he could do and the meeting was
set for this afternoon.
Doghan Bey has just left. He is a tall, fine ap¬
pearing man with eyes like an eagle's. We think
he is a Circassian. He spoke of the aim of the
Turks—to clear Cilicia of the French—and said
they would never stop until this was accomplished.
He introduced the plan for the conference. He
says
[ 172 ]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
says that it is now possible to call across the
trenches and arrange an armistice with the Ar¬
menians and then, with both Turks and Armenians
holding their fire, the Americans can go to the city.
Doghan wants two or three representative Armeni¬
ans to come out to the compound to confer with a
like number of Turks. Doghan gives his word
that no harm shall come to the Armenians. After
going into a few more details, Doghan left. To¬
night, at nine o'clock, Mr. Eby is to go with En ver
and Jevan to a place where he can call to the Ar¬
menians and ask for Manasajian and then talk with
him in English. He is one of the few men in the
city who speaks English. As none of the Turks un¬
derstand the language, this is done to assure the
Armenians there is no trickery.
May Fifteenth
Late afternoon. The armistice was called for
yesterday morning and again Edith and Mr. Eby
started to the city with two flags. It was not long
before they returned with the answer that we all
expected. The Armenians would not come within
the enemy lines. The leaders had no faith in a
conference but, if there was to be one, it must take
place half way between the two defenses. Jevan,
when he heard this, was greatly displeased and said
no place but the American salaam luk would sat¬
isfy his people. Without going into all details of
the
[173]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
the several conversations with the Turkish leaders,
the facts are these: after a number of trips to the
edge of the city for further discussion, the Armeni¬
ans consented to send two men to our compound
at four o'clock. Edith and Mr. Eby promised to
meet and escort them, one of them walking on
either side of the two Armenians. In the mean¬
time we held a council of war and decided where
each American should be stationed. Of course
Edith and Mr. Eby were to be present at the con¬
ference but the rest of us were to stand at certain
places where we could watch all points of ap¬
proach and give warning in case of treachery on
either side. I was assigned a post outside our big
gate on the Hadjin road where I could watch both
the Turks in nearby tents and the valley below,
where Armenians might creep up through the
bushes. The situation of the compound would be
perilous if either side should break faith. The na¬
tive people were instructed to keep in the lower
part of the building and to be absolutely quiet. At
half after three the escort started. We were all
tense, straining our ears for any sound. At the
time for them to turn back, we heard a shot. I
assure you, my knees shook under me. In a few
minutes we saw the Americans coming back alone.
You can imagine our eagerness to know what had
happened. They reported that the two Armenians
were waiting just inside the defenses. They started
in our direction, Edith and Mr. Eby flanking them,
when
[174]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
when suddenly a shot was heard and a bullet fell
a foot in front of them. The Armenians fled to
cover and our two people had to make their way
alone as best they could over the mined places and
barbed wire and back to us. Of course we shall
never know from which side the bullet came, al¬
though we have our suspicions. Jevan was very
angry and takes out some of his feelings on us.
Now, he says all thought of compromise is over,
the city will be taken and every one put to the
sword.
May Sixteenth
We are wonderfully fortunate in our little gar¬
den. Under the care of Edith and Miss Super, the
lettuce and radishes are doing finely. We have
had the latter for some days and this noon we had
our flrst salad. It seems to me I never tasted any¬
thing so delicious as the five small leaves that were
my share. I have longed for something not canned.
It seems strange that we can be interested in such
comparatively unimportant things but I suppose
it is our salvation. I sometimes feel as if I should
lose my mind when I think of your anxiety while
I am powerless to get any word to you. Perhaps
the whole world is in upheaval. This is foolish
but it is one of the days when I feel desperate. I
don't know why I go on with this record—there is
so little probability that I shall live or that you
will
[175]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
will ever read it. Strangely enough, it is a com¬
fort to put down things as they happen, so I suppose
I shall go on as long as it is possible.
The month of Ramazan has begun and it makes
us doubly anxious. During the four weeks, all true
Moslems will not touch food nor drink from early
morning light until after dark. It is very hot now
and the men are apt to grow irritated under the
strain. Soldiers are not compelled to observe the
fast but the simple, ignorant villagers who make
up the largest part of the force are exceedingly
strict. It will be difEcult for the officers to hold
them here, for even if they stay through Ramazan,
they are determined to get to their homes to cele¬
brate the feast of Bairam. For this reason night
attacks on the city are made more frequently but
with little success.
May Eighteenth
Again I must write of our garden. We are
overjoyed in the discovery of a new kind of food.
We have all been taking a turn at the weeding—
we can let no natives help—and this morning we
learned from one of the women at the oven that
the weed that is most abundant is edible. It is
called "panjar" and is like beet greens. It is one
of the kinds of grass the Armenians ate in exile. I
boiled
[176]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
boiled some for our dinner and it was delicious.
We shall be sorry when the weeding is over.
May Nineteenth
Jevan spent last evening with Enver in the
clinic house, where they drank until nearly mid¬
night. The law of the Koran against drinking is
a dead letter to many Moslems. The leaders have
been very frank in showing their indifference
toward the faith of Islam although they find it use¬
ful in holding the simple peasants in control. As
the voices of the men in the house so near us grew
loud and angry, it didn't make Edith and me feel
any too comfortable. We tried not to think how
easy it would be for them to get so lost in their
cups that they would forget their promises and let
themselves and their men loose on the compound.
We ought not to let our faith grow faint for if
any one could ever say, "Hitherto hath the Lord
helped us," we are the ones to echo the words. I
try to hold my mind steady and not think about a
massacre here but sometimes it is impossible. If
such a thing comes to pass, my prayer is that, if I
can do nothing to help, I may be killed first. I
can't see the children suffer. My soul cries out
against such torment. To what end have they been
saved? Many of them were such wild little
creatures only a few months ago, and now, clothed,
fed, their minds and souls expanding, are they
finally to be sacrificed? Oh! I can't bear it.
May
[177]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
May Twentieth
I feel calmer this morning, ashamed of my
lack of faith. The day is beautiful, the sky a
heavenly blue where little lazy white clouds float
like ships at sea. When the daffodils blossomed,
they were in too exposed a place for us to gather
them but now the rose bushes are full of buds and
we are waiting eagerly for the blossoms. The chil¬
dren are good in their crowded quarters. The con¬
finement is telling on them and my little Mihran
is looking wan, more like the solemn little fellow
who came to us six months ago. I am full of ad¬
miration for the teachers who hold themselves
quiet and, without their help, we would find it al¬
most impossible to care for the host within our
gates. Alethea, who was so buoyant when she
came with me from Constantinople, now has hol¬
low cheeks and shadows under her eyes but she
never falters. Josephine, the one I told you about
who had such wonderful experiences in Caesarea
at the time of the deportations, is remarkable in the
confidence she expresses that help will come before
long.
May Twenty-first
I have said nothing about the way we manage
about drinking water for the people. After the
death of Sachian we were afraid to let the natives
go to the spring which is just beside the little gate
but
r 178]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
but inside the wall. Our program has been this :
directly after supper Miss Bredemas and I take to
the spring all the satters (pails) we can gather and
fill them, and then, when it is almost dark, we get
three of the medium sized girls and have them
carry the full receptacles to the house, to fill the
immense jars that stand on the back porch. As
quickly as possible we refill the empty vessels
which they bring back to us and this goes on until
the big jars are full. Sometimes, when the days
are unusually hot, the jars run dry and then one
of the Americans makes several trips to help
quench thirst. Last night was the first time when
we had any trouble. A stone, thrown by an unseen
hand, hit my shoulder but it came with little force
so we thought it must have been tossed over the
wall. I was not hurt but it adds to our uneasiness.
May Twenty-second
If the Turks expect to take the city they will
have to get more effective cannon. From the din¬
ing room windows we can see where many of the
shells fall. The Turks report great damage done
but most of the buildings within our line of vision
are intact. We surmise, from some remarks let
fall, that there is a scarcity of ammunition both
for cannon and guns. The men are always talking
of powerful cannon that are on the way but, up to
this time, we are of the opinion that there is only
one
[179]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
one here and that the others will never materialize.
Hadjin looks like a city of the dead. There is an
occasional wisp of smoke from a housetop but
neither with the naked eye nor with glasses can we
see a moving figure. We can make out the tops
of covered roadways so that we think of the people
as burrowing like moles under the surface of the
ground.
May Twenty-fifth
There is no change in our situation. Our visi¬
tors bring us all kinds of stories of the outside
world, the latest being that the United States, Ger¬
many and Turkey have formed an alliance. We
listen and appear impressed.
May Twenty-sixth
I have rationed our sugar supply, counting that
by the first of July, help must come. I opened the
last can of tomatoes yesterday and there are only
a few cans of peas and string beans left. This
morning when I went down to the hasna (store¬
room), I wondered what I could possibly find for
desert. I looked at the shelves, which closely re¬
sembled those of Mother Hubbard, thinking that
perhaps if I looked hard enough, something would
evolve itself out of thin air. The most surprising
thing happened; suddenly I spied a glass jar in a
dark corner and, taking it up to the kitchen, I
found
[180]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
found it contained mulberries. It stands to reason
that I put them up last summer hut I can't for the
life of me recall doing it.
May Twenty-eighth
It is wonderful that none of us have been ill.
Perhaps the reason is that none of us can he spared.
Mrs. Ehy has had one or two had days with her
heart hut that is not unusual for her and can't
really he counted. The last few days have been ex¬
ceedingly hot and I find myself exhausted
by night.
May Thirtieth
Nothing new. The attitude of the Turks is
about the same. They are suspicious and we have
been accused of signaling to Hadjin. When Edith
was in the city at the time of the last armistice, she
begged the Armenians not to try to take the com¬
pound from the Turks. Some of the young men
offered to try to oust the Turks from this position.
Edith impressed upon them the danger in which
we should he placed if such a thing was attempted.
Naturally, it is difficult for them to realize that we
are able to protect the women and girls.
May Thirty-first
Now that the trees are in leaf the Turks move
about more freely for both trees and hushes give
them
[181]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
them cover and they take their horses down to the
stream without danger. It is maddening to think
of the ripening cherries which we shall never
touch. The Turks tell us that they call across to
the Armenians saying that they will stay until the
grapes are ripe if the city holds out. We wonder
what our poor friends in the city are having to eat.
They told Edith that they had a good reserve but
this hardly seems possible to us. Nine weeks ago
the Turks took possession and twelve weeks ago
we had our last post and we seem no nearer a solu¬
tion than at the beginning. We regret that
Ayesha is so strict a Moslem, for the food is difîi-
cult to manage. She holds to the time honored
test that she must eat in the morning when it is so
dark that she can't tell a white thread from a black.
Light comes early and she frequently wakes up
too late but she is so faithful she won't take a bite
until after nightfall. Fortunately Jennet is too
young to fast, at least Ayesha agrees that this is
true, and that simplifies matters a bit.
June Third
Miss Super is having her hands full with sev¬
eral Turks who have bad wounds. It is an odd
position to be doctor for the Turkish troops but the
men frankly say their doctor knows nothing.
June
[182]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
June Tenth
It has come at last; what we feared has hap¬
pened. Night before last a company of Armeni¬
ans fought their way out to the compound and
overpowered the Turks. At two o'clock yesterday
morning we heard frightful sounds, cries like war
whoops of Indians and rapid fire of guns. The
voices sounded like those of Armenians but we
were not sure. Edith and I, with trembling hands,
dressed just before the gates were battered down
and the doors of the building torn from their
hinges. There was a sound of rushing men in the
halls and on the stairs and we did not know whether
they were Moslems or Armenians. Edith ran out
and heard the men calling the names of the teachers
and girls. It appears that the Turks had taunted
the Armenians across the trenches at night saying,
"We have taken girls from the compound." The
hot bloods among the men, almost crazed by the
thought of what might have happened, crept down
the valley and made their way up to the compound
and there, finding a small number of Turks on
guard, killed some and wounded others. The Turks
who were left fled up the mountain, leaving the
Armenians in control. These poor deluded men
don't know what they have done. They do know
that every woman and girl is unharmed but they
also understand that we can no longer protect them.
It is plain to us that the Turks will come back and
when they do what influence shall we have? The
entire
[183]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
entire situation is changed. Before this no guns
had been fired in the compound and now it has
been the fighting ground of both sides. The Ar¬
menians say they will hold it against the Turks.
Our position is hideous. After a consultation, in
which as usual we included Matteos and Minas,
we decided that the only thing to do was to send
all the native people, with the exception of the
Turkish girls, to Hadjin. There is protection there
of a material kind. The moral force which we
exerted is now useless. This rushing the com¬
pound was an act of the Armenians deplored by
us and now their own are safer with them than
with us. In the excitement of the early morning
all of the refugee families and some of the orphans
ran to the city. Many of the people from Hadjin
came out to satisfy themselves that we had not
been killed by the Turks. It is a terrible thing to
have our teachers and children go but more ter¬
rible to have them stay. While it is still day we
will keep them here but when it begins to' grow
dark they must leave. We feel sure the Turks will
not return until night. The Armenians, against
our wishes, are establishing themselves in the
buildings, bringing in bags of stones to make bar¬
ricades at the windows from behind which they
can fire. Every little while a bullet comes
through the wall of some room for the Turks are
shooting from the heights. I can't bear to look at
our children. What is their fate to be? Satanik
brought
[184]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
brought Elmas and little Mary to me to say good
bye. I tied fresh white tape on their hair and held
them in my arms, feeling that my heart would
break. Satanik was dear and brave; she says
she will take care of them. Just at dusk we started
the sad procession. They all looked white and
frightened as each one, carrying a bundle of cloth¬
ing and a dish and spoon, came to us to make his
or her salaam. Men are coming out tonight, if
possible, to carry in what food we have. The peo¬
ple can't understand why we stay. They have
offered us the best they have in the city with pa¬
thetic earnestness. We have explained that we
must be true to what we have said, that we take no
sides. We are Americans on American property
and we want to stay here alone. Of course, if the
Armenians insist on remaining and if they fire
from our buildings, our neutrality is affected. We
shall be accused of inviting the attack. The peo¬
ple say to us, "In any case, the Moslems will not
spare you now, you will be killed if they come
back." We recognize that this is possible but there
is no other course for us. As far as I am concerned
I would rather take my chances here. * * * *
Most of the food was taken to the city and by
midnight the Turkish fire seemed to come from a
nearer point. In the early morning, several bombs
were thrown at our buildings but they went over
us and exploded down in the valley. We have now
taken the two girls and gone down to the lower
floor
[185]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
floor, I am writing in the hall—the safest place
we can find. There are no windows, only the out¬
side door at one end. The men are firing from the
upper windows and from behind bags of stones in
doorways. I tried to get some food for us in the
kitchen and a bullet sang past my cheek, burying
itself in the opposite wall. The walls are becom¬
ing riddled with shot. They tell us there are
Turks lying killed near the house, the result of the
fighting night before last and I know there is a
dead Armenian near us, for the body has just been
carried down the stairs and put on the floor of one
of the rooms. "Black Death" is the name of the
Armenian in command. He is one of the gama-
voors and a frightful looking man with a big
squatty figure. He has shaggy black hair and he
is cross-eyed. He sings snatches of song in a re¬
verberating bass. The sound sends shivers through
me and Edith says he is calling down dreadful
curses on the Turks, * * * Xhe soldiers
say we must find some safer place to stay than this
hall. Edith has suggested the hasna leading off
from the long stairway that goes down to the big
dining room. This is a small room and has no
outside wall and no windows. At the far end of
the ceiling there is an iron grating which is in the
floor of one of the upstairs rooms. A little light
comes through and a little air so that we can man¬
age. There are some big jars and boxes stored
there but, by moving these back, we shall have
room
[186]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
room for the eight of us. We have brought two
mattresses down and there is space to spread them
so that we shall be able to take turns in lying down.
We have also managed to get a little food from the
kitchen.
^ ^ ^ ^ ^
We have left the hall and are all sitting on
the stairs near the entrance to the hasna. We
don't know when the Turks may attack at closer
range. Ayesha and Jennet are splendid. They
do exactly as they are told. Jennet is very quick
witted and she has made suggestions as to what she
might do if the Turks break in.
rmi
CONCLUSION
Now that I am in America again, I must put
my thoughts in order and write the story of the
last days in the compound and, finally, our journey
cross country to the Black Sea. Those days and
nights in the hasna stand out with such vividness
that, in recalling them, I can smell again the odors
of that close place and feel the shudders that passed
through me during the hot June days. All through
Thursday and until the late afternoon on Friday,
the Armenians kept up the fight. We never knew
when the Turks might come swarming down into
the compound and into the building. We fancied
them rushing down the stairway, possibly herald¬
ing their approach by the throwing of bombs. We
stayed closely in the hasna but we had a plan ready.
If they came running down, with only guns and
knives, we hoped to have time to get our small
American flag and a piece of white cloth, to serve
as a truce flag, over the top of the door so that,
seeing that sign of Americans, they would halt be¬
fore shooting. The Turkish girls were to call and
tell them who were in the hasna. This seemed our
only chance. In the meantime bullets rattled like
rain
[189]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
rain for a machine gun had been trained on the
building. Wounded Armenians came to have
their heads and arms bound by Miss Super. The
stairs became bloody and flies gathered until the
humming was sickening. It was very hot and, al¬
though we had some food, we could not eat. Be¬
tween four and flve o'clock Friday afternoon, the
Armenians, their ammunition having given out,
slipped down the back way and, as far as we know,
using the bushes for cover, hid until they could
in the darkness get back through the valley to the
city. The silence that followed was only a little
more fearful than the sound of firing over our
heads had been. We took turns, two at a time, in
sitting on the stairs and listening for the sound of
feet. Edith and Mr. Eby crept upstairs and across
the floor of the dormitory to the windows. There
they hung out the American flag and called,
"There are no Armenians here. We are six Amer¬
icans and two Moslems. We are friends—come."
There was no reply.
From time to time on Saturday, this call was
repeated but silence reigned. Firing on the city
ceased but occasionally a bullet hit our building.
This happened when anyone appeared at door or
window. We tried this several times and knew
that they were watching. Sunday morning, June
thirteenth, at half after six, there was a shout from
the direction of the Turks. Our answering call
went back. Gradually the voices sounded nearer
and
ri90]
letters from cilicia
and Edith and Mr. Eby went into the compound
and in a few moments several Turks entered, fol¬
lowed at a short distance by others. As they came
close and no shots were fired from our building,
other Turks climbed over the walls. The leader
was a wild looking man whom we recognized as
"Arab Ali." With his peculiar flowing head-dress
and his knives, he was a horrid sight. Quickly
the men poured into the house while we eight stood
in a group near the door. Mrs. Eby offered a glass
of water to the leader which he waved aside. This
was not a good sign because if an oriental accepts
food or drink at your hands he must be friendly.
Edith and I stood close together and she said in
an undertone, "I don't know what he intends."
The men ranged themselves about us and Arab Ali,
addressing Edith, said that we had betrayed them
by signaling to the Armenians to attack. He would
listen to no denial and the end appeared to have
come, when Enver Bey came running into the com¬
pound. As we were led to understand later, it was
not the plan of those in command to have Arab Ali
and his men come in, but they, eager to be first in
getting the loot, disobeyed orders.
Note—Weeks later in Talas, Edith received a
call from a Turk who told her that it was the defi¬
nite plan of these men to kill the Americans. Their
hands were held.
Enver took Ali to one side and there followed
a heated discussion. Finally we were told that we
must
[191]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
must leave at once. We could have two hours to
get together what we needed. I looked at my
watch—half after seven—and ran to the Martin
house where I had most of my belongings. The
men had scattered at once into the buildings and
before I could take my riding skirt from its hook,
one of them had anticipated me. I was too quick
for another and seized a pair of high shoes before
he saw them. I opened one trunk and trying to
think what I most needed, knowing I could carry
little, I tossed the contents about. Looking up, I
saw a Turk standing beside me. I recognized him
as one of the bandit chiefs who had often come to
see us and who had always been friendly. Evi¬
dently the numbers were growing. Motioning to
him to guard the trunk, I dashed into another room
to search for some necessary things. He was hon¬
orable for, when I got back, nothing had been dis¬
turbed. To show my appreciation, I gave him my
cherished Circassian bashlek, which he accepted
with apparent gratitude, although I knew he was
only waiting for me to go that he might strip the
room. Men were everywhere; rolling up rugs;
pulling down curtains ; carrying bags of clothing ;
loading themselves down with bolts of cloth. I
ran, with my arms full, back to the main building,
where, spreading out my steamer rug, I made a
package I could carry with a shawl strap. Edith
was doing her best to collect some clothes and at
the same time direct the Turkish girls about their
parcels.
[192]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
parcels. There was gold that had been entrusted
to us by Armenians of Hadjin. In our buying
of food this had never been touched. Edith went
to the dining room where the safe stood. Four ban¬
dits were there. Half kneeling, with her back to
them, she turned the combination. One of the men
said to the others, "She is getting the gold." A
second man replied, "No, they have no gold; they
paid with cloth." The men made no move in her
direction and she took out the several packages and,
dropping them in the saddle bag she carried,
walked quietly out. As afterward we were never
searched, the entire amount was finally taken to
Constantinople.
In the meantime, realizing that the gingham
dress I had on was not good for travel, I changed
to my uniform although there were several Turks
in the room and I chanced losing both costumes in
the operation. This successfully accomplished, I
was ready. The rest of the people were busy with
their preparations. While Edith was trying to
see how she could carry the big account books and
was finding it impossible, Enver was dashing from
one room to another calling to us, "Heidé—heidé"
meaning "hurry, hurry." He evidently was afraid
to trust the promises of Arab Ali who had gotten
out of hand, exasperation added to his hatred by
finding no Armenians hidden away. In less than
the two hours granted, in fact at half after eight,
urged on by Enver, we left the house. Bundles
of
[193]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
of faggots were piled against the building and the
Martin house was already breaking into flame.
The men purposely frightened our horses so that
we were unable to take them and, on foot, we hur¬
ried out of the compound; eight of us, one man,
six women and a little girl. Wedged against the
Marash gate lay a dead Moslem, but we managed
to get past and on up the steep slope, with bullets
flying over our heads and smoke and flames beneath
us. Up, up we toiled the sharpest grade I ever
knew, slipping back, pushing on, out of breath and
panting. A few second's rest to ease the dry ache
in the throat and the sharp pain in the chest, then
on again, ever pressed by Enver's incessant "Heidé,
heidé." Many of the looters took the same direc¬
tion, and not far from me a bandit climbed, carry¬
ing his load and wearing my top coat over his
shoulders. One man had among his possessions
my patent leather bag and he indicated he would
take my bundle too. I emphatically, with what
breath I had, saidJ^';^ok" (no) and plodded on.
Having rounded the shoulder of the mountain, we
came to a somewhat level place and there Enver
let us rest. In ten minutes we were up again.
Ahead of us we saw Jevan. We wondered what
his attitude would be. At first he turned and
looked away and then he came toward us. He
looked grim, not our friend of a few days before.
Presently his face relaxed a little and he came to
us with a word of greeting. This was all and we
traveled
[194]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
traveled on, seeing him as we turned around, again
on his post of vantage, looking down on the com¬
pound. After a time we came to Enver's tent and
there he let us rest and had youghoort brought to
us. Enver, to my certain belief, was a bad man
but he had a sense of gratitude and he was that
day saving our lives in appreciation for what he
felt Miss Super had done for him. Again the
word came to go forward. We could never walk
fast enough to suit Enver. Little Jennet was a
delicate child and her strength all but gave out but
she was plucky and, by dint of encouragement and
various lifts, she struggled along. Now our path
led down the mountain with bright flowers on
either side that at any other time would have filled
us with delight but now the thought of the jour¬
ney's end was in our minds. By noon we came in
sight of a gathering of tents and presently reached
the Shar road where there was a small camp. We
were invited into a tent and served with excess¬
ively sweet hot tea in glasses. We were told that
dinner was being prepared for us. Rugs were
spread in a shady place and an exceedingly good
meal was served. As we were eating, we were sur¬
prised to have Hiaratoon Effendi suddenly appear,
quite out of breath, wiping beads of perspiration
from his forehead. He was kaimakam of Hadjin
when I arrived, but he was replaced by the French
with an Armenian. He had been living in Fekke
and evidently had cast in his lot with the chettes.
He
[195]
LETTERS FROM CILICIA
He said that he had heard what had happened and
he wanted to be of help in any way he could. He
stayed to visit with us while we wondered what
the next move would be. Before long Enver came
to say that we were to go to the commander's camp
on another mountain side. We refused to walk
further so horses and mules were found for us.
It was difficult to manage with my narrow skirt
and I mourned my stolen divided one as well as my
own American saddle and bridle. However, this
was a great improvement on walking and slowly
our procession moved up the mountain. The views
spread out before us were lovely but our hearts
were like lead. It was growing dusk when we
reached the height where we were received by
Arslan Bey, the deputy commander. He said
Doghan Bey was at Sis and, until he re¬
turned, it would be impossible to plan for our
journey out. As we neared the camp we passed
soldiers, many of whom laughed in an unpleasant
way and I wondered what was in their minds.
That night we all slept in the tent with the deputy
commander and it was most uncomfortable. A
shelter of boughs was built for us and there we
spent Monday. We were treated kindly but the
heat, the lack of privacy—for the men were always
coming in—no opportunity to wash satisfactorily
and the uncertainty of our situation got on our
nerves.
Late
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LETTERS FROM CILICIA
Late in the afternoon, Doghan Bey returned.
He was not suave as before and, after a word of
prefunctory greeting, he sent his secretary in to
Edith, asking for a statement of what had happened
in our compound between the 5th of April and the
13th of June. Edith dictated a short account but
she gave no flowery praise to the Turks. The sec¬
retary, plainly not pleased, asked if she had no
more to say and she answered that she had covered
the ground. With this he had to be content.
Doghan asked if we wished to go to Talas and,
knowing this was the only place to which they
would send us, we answered "Yes." We were
promised an escort and horses for the following
morning. That night, Monday, we again slept in
the tent although I had hoped we might be allowed
to stay in the shelter. Toward midnight the tele¬
phone began to ring and, from the replies that
Arslan Bey mumbled into the receiver, Edith
gained an inkling of the situation and whispered
to me that there were desertions in the ranks.
There was much loud talking and calling outside
and the sound of running men. Putting on his
sword and hanging a revolver at his belt, Arslan
walked up and down in apparent unrest. We
feared greatly that the Armenians were trying a
rush attack on the place. After an hour the excite¬
ment ceased. Morning came and there was the
usual delay about our getting off. Hiaratoon Ef-
Effendt
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LETTERS FROM CILICIA
fendi and Shukre Bey, brother of Arslan, were
appointed to be our escort, although there was
some uncertainty for a time as to whether or not
Hiaratoon would be allowed to go. We counted
much on him for our safety. At last we started
on our three days' journey. It was extremely hot
and the sun beat down mercilessly through the
middle of the day. We reached Roomloo in the
early afternoon and there friends and relatives of
Ayesha and Jennet gave us food and received the
girls from us. We wanted to take them to the
school in Talas but Doghan Bey had not given his
permission. The first night we spent in the vil¬
lage of Dersoon Effendi, the fine Kurdish sheik
who has always shown such friendship for the
Americans in Hadjin. He greeted us with great
kindness and entertained us in his house, where the
best he had was set before us. He had sent word
more than once, before the Turks surrounded us,
to give warning of impending danger. He was
honestly distressed by hearing all that had hap¬
pened and tears came to his eyes as he listened.
The following morning we made an early start for
we had a long road ahead. Several times during
the day we stopped at villages to relay horses.
There was naturally much unwillingness on the
part of the villagers and we were sorry for them
but we had to go on and our escort had the arrange¬
ment of matters. Toward the end of our journey,
ive
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LETTERS FROM CILICIA
we reached a village where the people were par¬
ticularly opposed to letting their animals go and
kept making excuses. Finally Hiaratoon, always
excitable, threatened to burn the place. He even
went so far as to set fire to one house and imme¬
diately horses were brought forth. The villagers
also had to feed us. The third day at sunset we
sighted Talas and it was a draggled, tired party
that entered the hospitable compound. I had worn
my black sailor hat: the beating sun had
scorched my face to the color of mahogany and
my lips were swollen and sore. Never did a bath
seem so wonderful for we had not been able to
take off our clothes for nine days and nights. Our
bodies were at rest but our souls were bleeding.
The thought of our teachers and children in the
beleagured city was with us day and night. In
many ways it was a comfort to be as near them as
Talas, but the unsettled state of that part of the
country made it best for us to go on to Constanti¬
nople. Edith, with her fine knowledge of the lan¬
guage, insisted on staying where she would be able,
if Hadjin were relieved, to go to the children.
There were plenty of workers in Talas and Miss
Super and I were not needed. The conditions and
word that had come from headquarters made it
seem possible that orders to evacuate might come
at any time and it was best for us not to add to
the complication. The other three were anxious
to
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LETTERS FROM CILICIA
to get to the coast to report to their Board in
America. After five days of rest, transportation
men of the Near East Committee, passing through
Talas with a motor truck, took us by way of Sivas
and Tokat to Samsoon on the Black Sea, a journey
of three and a half days. We traveled over roads
built under German supervision and saw bodies of
cars lying by the side of the way, abandoned by
the Germans in their mad flight when they re¬
alized that their's was a lost cause. This part of
the journey was through territory where Mustapha
Kemal was in control, and traveling with Turkish
permits was comparatively safe. The Russian
boat which called at Samsoon two days after our
arrival did not tempt me, so, having been able to
send a cable to relieve the minds of my family, I
waited a week and then made quick time to Con¬
stantinople on an American destroyer which ac¬
cepted me as the sole woman passenger. Since
reaching America there have been many rumors
as to what was happening in Hadjin but late in the
fall it was definitely learned that October ISth,
the Turks, becoming desperate, brought up heavy
guns and, with the population so weakened in num¬
bers and in strength that they could put up no re¬
sistance, captured the city in a few hours. The
place was set on fire and those who escaped the
flames were cut down with the sword. A few hun¬
dred fought their way out. In no massacre is
everyone
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LETTERS FROM CILICIA
everyone killed, but to the present day we know
of only two or three of our girls who are alive.
And that is all.
Is that all? Through the long days of March,
April, May and half of June, we said over and
over, "To what end have they been saved? Have
they suffered and almost died in exile—been
brought back to life—given hope and happiness,
only to die in cruel ways? To what end have they
been spared?" I see Rabel, hopeless looking
with her matted hair and her wild ways when she
came to us. I see her at the end of a few months,
proud of her neat braids and full of eagerness to
take her share of responsibility. I see Rupen, re¬
pulsive to such a degree that we felt we could not
keep him with the other children, but so respond¬
ing to love and kindness that he was quickest of
all the boys to lift his cap when any of us appeared
and anxious to be counted worthy to serve.
I wonder if those months were given to us and
to them to make them better citizens in the heaven¬
ly country to which they have gone.
I wonder!
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