PRINCETON, N. J. 
 
 SM/. 
 
 Division. X.SSQS 
 
 Section 
 
 Number ..'Si. t. 
 
4 
 
 
 V 
 
 I 
 
 V ' 
 
 r 
 
 
 
 
 \ 
 
 l.J . 
 
 
 V - >: 
 
 
 ■ 
 
Mount Fuji. Frontispiece to Vol. u. 
 
ITS 
 
 JAPAN: 
 
 HISTORY, TRADITIONS, 
 AND RELIGIONS. 
 
 WITH THE 
 
 NARRATIVE OF A VISIT IN 1879. 
 
 By Sir Edward J. REED, K.C.B., F.R.S., M.P., 
 
 VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE INSTITUTION OF NAVAL ARCHITECTS; 
 
 MEMBER OF THE INSTITUTIONS OF CIVIL ENGINEERS AND MECHANICAL ENGINEERS; 
 KNIGHT OF THE IMPERIAL RUSSIAN ORDER OF ST. STANISLAUS, OF THE 
 AUSTRIAN ORDER OF FRANCIS JOSEPH, AND OF THE 
 TURKISH ORDER OF THE MEDJIDifi, ETC. 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES.— VoL. II. 
 
 WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 JOHN MUKKAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 1880. 
 
 [The. Eight of Translation is reserred.'] 
 
LONDON : 
 
 PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, 
 STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 {VOL. II.) 
 
 CHAPTEK I. 
 
 OUR ARRIVAL IN JAPAN — FIRST IMPRESSIONS. 
 
 Our first view of Japan — The sacred mountain Fuji-yama — Coast scenery 
 — Yokohama Bay — Our landing — Reception on shore — A small 
 summer palace of the emperor — Railways of Japan — Arrival in Tokio 
 — The residence of Admiral Kawamura — Memoranda by E. Tenn 
 Reed — Jwrihi-shas — Costumes of the people — Japanese shops — Torii — 
 A Shinto temple — Mode of worship — Shinto priests — A movable shop 
 — The police — The children— Shampooers — Outside the town — 
 Country scenery — Rice-fields — An inland town — Tea-drinking — The 
 national beverage, soke — A Buddhist temple — Buddhistic worship — 
 The lotus emblem — Japanese animals — Excursion vans. Pages 1-18 
 
 CHAPTEE II. 
 
 A MONTH IN THE EASTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 Our courteous reception there — Imperial princes and princesses — Ministers 
 of state — The prime minister Sanjo — The founding of Tokio (Yedo) — 
 The castle — Splendid temples — Wooyeno Park — European buildings — 
 Native shops — The metropolitan temple of Asakusa — The Nio, or 
 giant gate-keepers — The remedial idol, Binzuru — Curious modes of 
 worship — A praying- wheel — Japanese lacquer and bronze — Devoted 
 workmen — Early lacquer- work — Decline and revival of the manufacture 
 — The processes employed — Early and modern bronzes — Modes of pro- 
 duction — Exact reproductions avoided — Art-work — Coloured pictures 
 in metal — Repousse work — An unequalled work of art — The j)aper- 
 mills of Oji — Paper-manufacture — Multiplied uses of paper — The 
 government and administration of Tokio — An official statistical 
 account ......... 19-47 
 
 a 2 
 
IV 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTEK III. 
 
 LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 
 
 Early Japanese an unwritten language — Transmission of records by word 
 of mouth — The Indian Yedas — A colossal system of mnemonics — 
 Ancient language of Japan — The Loo-choo dialect — Japanese a Tn- 
 ranian tongue — Mr. Hyde Clarke’s theory of an ancient Turano- African 
 empire — Intercourse with Korea — Influence of Chinese literature — 
 “ Letters of the god-age ” — The alphabet — Spoken and written language 
 —Difficulties of exploring Japanese literature — Diary of the old court 
 noble — A Japanese classic — Japanese poetry — Poetry of the gods — A 
 verse by the god Susanoo — Chant of the goddess Uzume — A “ No ” — 
 Specimens of native poetry — Eemarkable influence of women upon 
 literature — Interchange of prose and poetry between a Chinaman and 
 a Japanese — Captain Brinkley on the Japanese language — Mr. Hyde 
 Clarke’s Turano- African theory .... Pages 48-79 
 
 CHAPTEE IV. 
 
 DRAWING AND PAINTING. 
 
 Our opportunities of studying Japanese art — Temple art treasures — Studies 
 in Kioto — Artistic seances — Foreign derivation of the art — Government 
 patronage — Early artists of distinction — Kano and his school — The 
 Tobo school — Okio and the Shiyo Riu — Hokusai, the Japanese Hogarth 
 — The “ schools” of Japan — Professor Anderson upon Jajmnese design, 
 composition, drawing, perspective, chiaroscuro, and colour — The beauty 
 of the human form not duly appreciated in Japan — Sir Rutherford 
 Alcock on Japanese art — Frequent recurrence of pictorial subjects — 
 Legend of the cuckoo and the moon — Anticipated progress of the 
 Japanese in European art styles — Their technical mastery . 80-104 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 PROVERBS AND PHRASES OF THE PEOPLE. 
 
 Many proverbs and proverbial sayings — Expressions for what is impossible 
 — Injunctions for avoiding the appearance of evil . . 105-112 
 
 CHAPTEE VI. 
 
 THE INLAND SEA AND NAGASAKI. 
 
 Departure from Yokohama in the Meiji Maru — The lighthouse of Oosima 
 — Precautions against earthquakes — A natural breakwater — Kobe and 
 Hiogo — Waterfalls — Temples and shrines — The club at Kobe — Scenery 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 V 
 
 of the Inland Sea — The bay and castle of Mihara — A beautiful dawn — 
 Takahara — The ancient temples of Miyajima — A torii in the sea — 
 Sacred deer and monkeys — The Shinto shrines — Origin of the temple — 
 A homeless goddess — A rebellion and a revenge — Shimonoseki — The 
 straits of that name — The attack of the combined squadrons in 1864 — 
 An indemnity extorted by the aggressors — The town of Shimonoseki 
 — A legend of its temple — A change of weather — Nagasaki harbour 
 — One Pine-tree House — A singular imperial salute — The coal-mines of 
 Takashima — Government establishments — A Church missionary — The 
 fatal isle of Pappenberg — Eeturn trip through the Inland Sea — The 
 ancient city of Osaka — Its historic associations. . Pages 113-136 
 
 CHAPTEK VII. 
 
 THE CITY OF OSAKA. 
 
 Approach to the city — Well-managed railways — The imperial reception- 
 house — Governor Watanab^ — A nursery garden — Views over the city — 
 Kozu, the temple of deified emperors — Another Shinto temple — An 
 ancient Buddhist temple — Reminiscences of Prince Shotoku-taishi — 
 The temple of the sea-gods — A musical service therein — A prehistoric 
 boat — Divine jewels (magatama) — A Japanese fair — The castle of Osaka 
 — Its modern arsenal — Immense monoliths — A ceiling of arrows — A 
 gilded roof — the castle keep — Inspections of barracks — Studious soldiers 
 — A private Japanese dinner — A public dinner — Japanese music and 
 dances — A speech by the President of the Chamber of Commerce — A 
 pretty comjdiment — Dramatic performances — A purchasing expedition 
 — The power of art — Presents — The imperial mint — The new coinage 
 — Output of the mint ....... 137-154 
 
 CHAPTEE VIII. 
 
 THE SACKED CITY OF NAHA. 
 
 Interest felt in the city — View of the people — Men of average stature, 
 women small — Picturesque children — Visit to Sakai — Road to Nara — 
 Shadoofs — Burial-places of the Mikados — Tomb of the war-god Ojin— 
 Raised river-beds — Village graveyards — Scenery — River navigation — 
 The ancient temples of Hori-uji — Relic of Buddha — Carvings of Prince 
 Shotoku — First view of Nara — Careful cultivation of the land — Our 
 temple-abode — The great temple of Dai-butsu — The colossal god of bronze 
 and gold — The supporters of the god — Historic relics — Footprint of 
 Buddha — Temples of Kwannon — A fine landscape — A tea-house — More 
 Buddhist and Shinto temples — Courtesy and hospitality of the priests 
 —Temple avenues— Dance of the virgin priestesses — An ancient pine- 
 tree — Curiosity shops — Return start — Site and limits of the ancient 
 city — Group of Shinto temples near Sakai — A Japanese interior — More 
 hospitality — Osaka again ...... 155-178 
 
VI 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTEK IX. 
 
 KIOTO, OR SAIKIO, THE WESTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 Changes of name — The “cockpit” of Japan— Arrival at Kioto — Lodgings 
 in a Buddhist temple — Baths of Maruyama — General view of the 
 city — Temples of Higashi-Otani and Chionin — The Mikado’s palace 
 — The emperor-god — The throne-room, study, bed-chamber — The 
 , apartments of the empress — Imperial gardens — Shinto temple at 
 Shimagomo — A summer-seat of the Mikado — The silver-storied temple 
 — Pastimes of the sacred and secular monarchs — Temples of the eight 
 million gods — Other temples — Government industrial establishments 
 and schools — Female normal school — “ Sweet girl-graduates ” — Educa- 
 tion of dancing-girls and geishas — A banquet with Buddhist digni- 
 taries — Illuminations — Arashiyama — Fishing and boating on a moun- 
 tain river — A palace tiffin — Japanese music — The Toji temples — 
 Superfluous gods — Another Buddhist banquet — Ancient Japanese and 
 Chinese temple dances — Presents — The gentle Buddha — An historical 
 exhibition — Literary treasures — Porcelain works — Hideyoshi at 
 “ Clear-water Temple ” — Nishi - Otani — National dances — Silk and 
 other factories — Street strolls — Mount Hiyei . . Pages 179-230 
 
 CHAPTEE X. 
 
 THE SACRED SHRINES OF ISE. 
 
 Start from Kioto — Otsu — Lake Biwa — The famous temples of Ishiyama- 
 dera — Their legendary origin — An ancient authoress — The extraordi- 
 nary mountain pass of Sudsuga — Jinriki-slia men — Pilgrims to Isd — 
 The road to the shrines — Legend of a pine-tree — Matsuzaka, the birth- 
 place of Motoori — His writings — A wet evening — Visit to a girls’ school 
 — More pilgrims — The Geku shrine — The goddess worshipped there — 
 Offence of the god Susanoo — Origin of the imperial regalia of Japan — 
 The Naiku or inner shrine of the sun-goddess — The sacred mirror — 
 The pilgrims at the end of their pilgrimage — A ceremonial temple 
 dance performed by virgin priestesses — Shinto worship at its most 
 sacred shrine — Solemn woods — The ancient faith — “A. study in blue 
 and gold — The “ Temple of Immortal Splendour ” — The return — 
 Picturesque scenes — Still pilgrims — Their costumes and equipments — 
 The simplicity and purity of Shinto worship . . . 231-261 
 
 CHAPTEE XI. 
 
 NAGOYA AND THE SHRINE OF THE SACRED SWORD, 
 
 The town of Tsu — An attack of illness in Yokkaichi— Amateur artists— 
 Habits of the Japanese — Mountain scenery — Sail on a river — The town 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Vll 
 
 of Miya' — The Atsiita shrine — The sacred sword “ Cloud Cluster ” — 
 Yamato-Dake — His expedition against the Ainos — The name of the 
 sword changed to “ Grass-mower” — Native history of the sacred sword 
 — Estimation in which swords are held in Japan — Their forms and 
 qualities — Sword-making a profession of honour — Sword inscriptions — 
 Etiquette of the sword — The city of Nagoya — A banquet and an ex- 
 hibition of porcelain — Amateur drawings and writings — Nagoya Castle 
 — Its towers surmounted with golden fishes — An attempt to steal them 
 — History of the castle— Kato Kiyomasa, its designer — Palace of the 
 Shogun ........ Pages 262-276 
 
 CHAPTEK XII. 
 
 TO shidzuoka: the home of the tokugawas. 
 
 Early departure from Nagoya — The great Tokaido road — Monument to 
 “the Shogun of three days” — Okazaki, the birthplace of lyeyasu — 
 Yoshida — A famous artist — Our picturesque procession — Miraculous 
 appearance of the goddess Kwannon — A colossal statue to the goddess 
 — Fuji-yama again — A shrine of splendour — Beauty of the sea — The 
 gate of Aral — The fishers of Mayezaka — Bridge over the Tenriu, 4000 
 feet long — A windy day in the hills — Kagos, or mountain chairs — 
 Swiss-like scenery — A scene for artists — A tunnel through a mountain 
 — Shidzuoka — Lacquer, inlaid, and bamboo work — Japanese tea-culti- 
 vation — Large exports of tea — lyeyasu’s love of literature — The last of 
 the Tycoons — A picture painted by him — An eminent litterateur — 
 Legends of the Night-crying Stone, the Sworded Pheasant, and the 
 Wishing Bell 277-292 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 FUJI-YAMA AND THE HAKONE MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Height, solitude, and solemnity of the sacred mountain — A dormant rather 
 than an extinct volcano — Legend of its origin — Cultivation of its slopes 
 — Pilgrimages to its summit — Its splendid appearance — Seikenji, or 
 “ Clear View Temple” — Temple treasures — The Mikado’s gifts of gold 
 cups — Saruga Bay — Fish-drying — Production of salt — Arrival at 
 Mishima — The great Shinto temple — Chief priest Mayada — More 
 treasures — A vase of the god-period — “ God’s food ” — The kago of 
 Mishima’s god — Mountain-A^a^os — Discomfort of the kago to Euro- 
 peans — “ Asleep at the wrong end ” — Splendid scenery of the Hakone 
 mountains — Views of the Idzu hills — The Japanese nightingale — 
 Roadside scenes — Fuji disappears in the mist — Police escorts of the 
 ministers — Dangerous effects of foreign pressure — Hakone lake — 
 Kaempfer’s description — Hakone gate in the old days — Mountain and 
 forest beauty— Asleep in a kago — The Sea of Sagarai — The baths of 
 Yumoto — A native hotel— Mixed bathing — “Honi soitqiii mal y pcnse !” 
 
Vlll 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 — Our final day on the Tokaido — Speed of the jinriki-sha men — 
 Neglected state of the great high-road — Second arrival in Tokio — A 
 hearty welcome ....... Pages 293-310 
 
 Appendices : — 
 
 Treaties and Conventions ...... 311-325 
 
 List of Emperors . . . . . . . . 326, 327 
 
 List of year-periods ....... 328-330 
 
 Comparative table of words in Japanese, West African, 
 
 and other languages ....... 331-337 
 
 Celebrated swords and makers ..... 338-342 
 
 Index .......... 343-356 
 
 0 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 {VOL. II.) 
 
 JjuU-lJiige 0ugntbmg0. 
 
 Mount Fuji Frontispiece. 
 
 YoSITUNE RIDII^a ON THE TeNGU ; 2. TaIBO, A FaBULOUS 
 
 Bird ......... Facing 
 
 The Ascending Dragon ...... „ 
 
 A Falcon ........ „ 
 
 The Great Temple of Dai-butsu, at Nara . . „ 
 
 Origin of the Kake-mono, or Hanging Picture 
 A Dancing Girl ...... 
 
 Soldiers in Time of Peace .... 
 
 ^^Uitor ^ngritbing0. 
 
 Railways of Japan ..... 
 
 Hair of Labourer ..... 
 
 Rinto, or Dragon Lantern of Kufukuji 
 A Praying-Wheel ..... 
 
 Japanese Junks ...... 
 
 Ancient Burial Place of an Emperor . 
 
 The Colossal Dai-butsu of Kamakura . 
 
 Tower of Nagoya Castle .... 
 
 Gold Fish of Nagoya Castle 
 
 PAGE 
 
 54 
 
 104 
 
 136 
 
 170 
 
 218 
 
 273 
 
 300 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 18 
 
 28 
 
 7i) 
 
 112 
 
 178 
 
 230 
 
 201 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 b 
 
JAPAN: 
 
 ITS HISTORY, TRADITIONS, AND RELIGIONS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 OUR ARRIVAL IN JAPAN — FIRST IMPRESSIONS. 
 
 Our first view of Japan — The sacred mountain Fuji-yama — Coast scenery 
 — Yokohama Bay — Our landing — Reception on shore — A small 
 summer palace of the emperor — Railways of Japan — Arrival in Tokio 
 — The residence of Admiral Kawamura — Memoranda by E. Tenn. 
 Reed — Jinriki-shas — Costumes of the people — Jajianese shops — IWH — 
 A Shinto temple — Mode of worship — Shinto priests — A movable shoji 
 — The police — 'The children — Shampooers — Outside the town — Country 
 scenery — Rice- fields — An inland town — Tea-drinking — The national 
 beverage, sake — A Buddhist temple — Buddhistic worship — The lotus 
 emblem — Japanese animals — Excursion vans. 
 
 It was on a fine breezy morning early in the year (January 
 10) that we first saw the land of Japan proper. Approach- 
 ing it from Hong Kong, and by the southern route, which 
 passes among the solitary Loo-choo Islands, the lordly and 
 heautiful Fuji-yama rose up before us long before any other 
 land was visible. Like a vast and splendid temple, it stood 
 high above the ocean-plain, white with snow, and glittering 
 in the sun. I shall have many occasions hereafter for 
 speaking in admiration of this wondrous object, and will 
 therefore only remark here that if one’s memories of Japan 
 were destined to fade one by one, I believe the very last to 
 disappear would be that of Fuji-san,* as first seen from 
 the sea, at a distance of nearly one hundred miles. 
 
 * Fuji-san is more correct than us) of Fuji-yama, hut usage has 
 the more popular designation (among juslified the employment of eitlier 
 
 VOL. II. B 
 
 n< 
 
2 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. I. 
 
 With interest ever deepening, through the day we saw the 
 picturesque shores of Japan gradually displayed as we 
 approached, broken as they are, and as artists must exult 
 to see them, into hills and headlands, valleys and sand- 
 beaches, rocks and caves, in indescribable variety. On many 
 an island and promontory stand lighthouses — those beacons 
 of civilisation of which any nation may well be proud.* 
 The days being short at this season of the year, night 
 came on, and the lighthouses blazed forth long before we 
 reached the roadstead of Yokohama, where steam-launches 
 
 term indifferently in this case. Yama, 
 Taka, and San or Zun are all applied 
 to mountains according to their posi- 
 tion or importance. 
 
 * “ The first view of the coast of 
 Japan which one obtains after five or 
 six days’ voyage from Hong Kong is 
 a very fair specimen of the coast 
 scenery in general. Hills of peculiarly 
 sharp outline, and which bear un- 
 mistakable signs of volcanic forma- 
 tion, send their rounded sjaurs out 
 seaward in such a way as to form 
 along the entire coast a series of small 
 bays, in some of the more protected 
 of which may be seen little nests 
 of grey huts, with their inevitable 
 accompaniment of single -masted 
 junks lying at anchor close in to the 
 shore. Every now and then a little 
 white sail will be seen skimming 
 along past the shore, the hull of the 
 vessel often being out of sight to 
 passengers on the mail steamers, 
 which naturally give the coast a wide 
 berth. At times the hills will fall 
 away enough to give you a glimpse 
 into the interior of the country, when 
 you see others, range beyond range, 
 of the same varied and picturesque 
 forms, increasing apparently in height 
 in proportion to their distance inland. 
 Wilh the exception of those nearest 
 to the coast, these hills appear pretty 
 thickly wooded, and even the barer 
 
 parts are overgrown with grass which 
 in the winter is of a deep straw 
 colour, the result of the scorching 
 sun of the preceding summer. This 
 scenery, varying slightly at times of 
 course, repeats itself continually as you 
 pass along towards the Gulf of Yedo. 
 Now and then the shore becomes 
 more rocky, and the surf forms a 
 broken line of white as far as the eye 
 can reach. 
 
 “ Islands occasionally loom up on 
 the seaward side, the last and finest 
 being that of ‘Vries,’ or ‘ Ooshima,’ 
 an active volcano which continually 
 pours forth smoke and occasionally 
 flame. Soon after passing these 
 islands the Gulf of Yedo is reached 
 and the shores close in, the eastern 
 one keeping very low right up the 
 bay, the western one also being a 
 little less billy and more thickly 
 wooded than before. 
 
 “ The Gulf of Yedo is extremely 
 well supplied with lighthouses of 
 various kinds, by aid of which mail 
 steamers are able to proceed straight 
 to their moorings in Yokohama Bay, 
 at whatever time they arrive. 
 
 “E. Tenn Reed.” 
 
 This note, and some other notes 
 which follow bearing corresponding 
 initials, are from the pen of my son, 
 who accompanied me on my visit to 
 Japan. 
 
CHAP. I.] 
 
 OUR ARRIVAL IN JAPAN. 
 
 n 
 
 fj 
 
 were waiting to take ns to the shore if we had chosen to 
 land. But the hour was late, and we had previously de- 
 termined to remain on board for the night, and therefore 
 sent our compliments and apologies to the friends awaiting 
 us, not doubting that their convenience, like our own, would 
 thus be best secured. 
 
 Early on the morning of the 11th we went upon deck and 
 saw the pleasant town of Yokohama, with its long line of 
 European -looking buildings extending along the sea-front, 
 and its charming residences high up on “ The Bluff,” on our 
 left. In the roadstead or harbour were ships of all nations, 
 including British, American, and German men-of-war, with 
 the flag of Japan floating proudly from many a war-vessel, 
 one of which, the ironclad frigate Foo-so, I had myself had 
 the privilege to design and have built for his majesty the 
 emperor. After breakfast the steam-launches were again 
 alongside, and several young officers whom we had known in 
 England had come out in them to escort us to the port- 
 admiral’s landing-place, where we were most cordially re- 
 ceived by their excellencies Admiral Kawamura and Mr. 
 Enouye Kawori, the ministers of marine and of public works 
 respectively, both of whom we had had the pleasure of know- 
 ing in England. With them were Admiral Ito and several 
 naval and civil officers, some of whom we already knew, and 
 others whose acquaintance we then made for the first time, 
 as we did also that of Captain Hawes, an English officer 
 who had established and brought to a condition of great 
 excellence a corps of Japanese marines whose disbandment 
 subsequent events had brought about.* 
 
 Our first entertainment in Japan was at a small but 
 elegant little summer residence situated upon a hill over- 
 looking the bay, which formerly belonged to Mr. Enouye, 
 
 * 'J’o Capt. Hawes we were in- the preparation of a guidebook to 
 debted for many kindnesses during Japan, which will be of the utmost 
 
 our stay. I understand that, in con- service to visitors, and doubtless 
 
 junction with Mr. Ernest Sato w, this help to attract strangers to the 
 accomplished officer is engaged in Flowery Land. 
 
 B 2 
 
4 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. I. 
 
 but has of late years been employed as a temporary residence 
 for tbe Mikado on the occasions of bis visiting the fleet, or 
 making a sea passage to or from his capital. Although 
 built and provided in European style, the little palace bore 
 throughout its fittings, furniture, and decorations the unmis- 
 takable impress of the Japanese artist and handicraftsman. 
 The walls were hung with Japanese pictures, both ancient 
 and modern ; the curtains were of rich Japanese silk ; the 
 carpets and rugs of native manufacture ; the furniture of 
 woods and designs special to the country, while beautiful 
 specimens of inlaid lacquer-work, Satsuma and Kiyomidzu 
 faience, and screens of Kioto embroidered silk adorned the 
 several apartments. A luncheon of European type empha- 
 sised the welcome which had been given us, and assured us 
 of the cordial hospitality with which we were to he treated. 
 A brief visit to the club, the privileges of which were 
 secured for us by the kindness of Captain Hawes, occupied 
 the only time available before the departure of our train to 
 the eastern capital.* 
 
 * “An Englishman arriving in 
 Yokohama, looking at the town from 
 a ship in the bay, will have some 
 difficulty at first in discovering any 
 very novel feature in its appearance. 
 To the left on a hill he sees Euro- 
 pean houses in abundance; all along 
 the shore are large stone buildings, 
 hotels, store-houses, and clubs such 
 as may be seen in any seaport town 
 at home ; and with a score or two of 
 steamers of every kind in the fore- 
 ground, it is indeed hard to realise 
 that he is face to face with the land 
 of the Mikados. But this disappoint- 
 ment does not last long. He has but 
 to lift his eyes and look beyond, and 
 there, towering above all the nearer 
 hills, he sees Fuji-yama, the monster 
 snow-capped mountain which forms 
 a background for all the loveliest 
 scenes in Japan. Steamers, hotels, 
 and store-houses are forgotten in a 
 moment, and he becomes for the 
 
 time a Japanese, or at any rate a 
 worshipper of Fuji. 
 
 “ But now the boats which are to 
 take him ashore crowd round, and he 
 has to postpone further contemplation 
 to a more suitable opportunity. The 
 boatmen and boats are Japanese at 
 any rate. Tlie men are dressed in a 
 loose sort of robe with hanging sleeves. 
 They row with long sweeps tied to 
 the side of the boat, and worked in a 
 kindofscullingfashionwiththeblades 
 nearly under the stern of the boat. 
 On reaching the shore and having 
 passed through the ordeal of the 
 customs, a stranger finds himself in 
 the midst of a curiously mixed popu- 
 lation. Here he sees in the same 
 minute Englishmen, Americans, 
 Germans, Frenchmen, Chinamen, all 
 of them feeling apparently at home, 
 and seeming as if it was the most 
 natural thing in the world for each 
 of them to be there: the Japanese 
 
CHAP. I.] 
 
 OUR ARRIVAL IN JAPAN. 
 
 5 
 
 Before proceeding with the narrative of our visit to Tokio 
 it may be well to pause sufficiently long to mention the 
 existing railway accommodation of Japan. There are but 
 three lines of railway yet constructed, viz. that upon which 
 we were about to travel from Yokohama to Tokio, a distance 
 of 18 miles ; a second, from the open port of Kobe to the 
 great commercial city of Osaka, which is 22 miles long; 
 
 and a third, from Osaka to the western capital of Kioto, 
 which is 26J miles in length. These last-named being con- 
 tinuous, may be considered as one line of 48^ miles, from 
 
 going their own way quite uncon- 
 cerned. As he moves farther into 
 the town, however, the purely 
 Japanese population appears in all 
 its novelty and picturesqueness ; 
 
 and from this point all we shall 
 see in Yokohama may be seen in 
 any town throughout the country. 
 
 “ E. T. R.” 
 
(3 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [cHAr. I. 
 
 Kobe to Kioto. Several other lines have been laid out, as 
 shown in the plan on the previous page, of which the parts 
 drawn in a continuous black line have been completely planned 
 and estimated for, the short piece from Kioto to Otsu being 
 already in hand and well advanced ; while the dotted lines 
 indicate a much more extensive system, which can scarcely be 
 said to have advanced much beyond the region of imagination, 
 although the general routes indicated have been more or less 
 examined and determined upon. While speaking of increased 
 communication with the plan before us, it may be well to men- 
 tion that it has been for centuries past the hope of thoughtful 
 Japanese that a canal would be cut from Tsuruga to the 
 northern extremity of Lake Biwa, for the purpose of admit- 
 ting shipping from the ocean into the lake, and thus carry- 
 ing sea-borne produce inland to Otsu, which is within nine 
 or ten miles of the western capital. The whole length of 
 projected railways above indicated is about 600 miles, of 
 which 143 have been completely planned and in part com- 
 menced, the remaining 457 miles being at present but little 
 more than talked of. The line from Yokohama to Tokio 
 was commenced in 1867, and opened for traffic in October 
 1872. There are large stations at the termini, and smaller 
 stations at several intermediate places. Extensive work- 
 shops exist at Tokio. It is said that the receipts for 
 passenger traffic alone on this line reach nearly £100 per 
 mile per week, and will therefore compare well with those 
 of first-class English railways. English and Scotch engine- 
 men and drivers are still employed upon the railway, but 
 the management of the traffic and the working of the 
 stations are conducted entirely by Japanese. 
 
 About five in the afternoon of the 11th we reached Tokio, 
 where a crowd awaited our arrival, attracted doubtless by 
 the circumstance that one of the carriages in waiting 
 belonged to the government, and bore among its decorations 
 the imperial crest. A few minutes’ drive, during which we 
 could not but be struck by the characteristic features alike 
 of the city and of the people, brought us to the residence of 
 Admiral Kawamura, where we found ourselves delightfulJy 
 
CHAP. I.] 
 
 OUR ARRIVAL IN JAPAN. 
 
 7 
 
 located in the midst of a purely Japanese household, hut 
 with an adjoining building of European style, newly erected 
 for the use of foreign visitors, and furnished with the 
 choicest art-furnishings of Japan, as in the case of the little 
 Yokohama palace already adverted to. 
 
 In place of giving my own general impressions resulting 
 from our first views of this extraordinary country and people, 
 I will take the following from the memoranda jotted down by 
 my son— in whose youth (his age being but nineteen) the 
 friendly reader will find sufficient excuse for any literary 
 crudeness that he may detect : — 
 
 “ Among the first things we see on entering a Japanese 
 town is a line oi jinrihi-slia men, with their hand-carriages, 
 w^aiting for a job. The shafts of the two-wheeled carriages 
 are resting on the ground, and their proprietors are standing 
 by, or sitting on the now sloping seat. Their dress consists 
 in most cases (in this winter time) of a pale-blue shirt with 
 hanging sleeves tucked in at the waist, and tight-fitting 
 breeches of the same colour, reaching just below the knee. 
 Legs and feet are bare, with the exception of straw sandals 
 fastened on by means of straw cords, one passing round the 
 ankle and another between the toes. They are most of 
 them holding their rough scarlet rugs round their necks and 
 shoulders, but as soon as they get a job the rug will be 
 transferred to the knees of the fare. 
 
 “ But let us look for a moment at the dresses of the 
 passers-by. Here comes a young man, probably an assistant 
 in a shop. His dress consists of a thick-striped silk robe 
 reaching down to the ankles, or nearly so. The colour of this 
 is a quiet grey, with narrow mauve or black stripes in it. It 
 crosses on his breast, and inside it shows an under-garment 
 crossing in the same way, made of a different shade of grey 
 from the other. The outer dress is fastened at the crossing 
 with a thick cord of cream-coloured silk. He wears white 
 socks, which only reach to the ankle, and which separate 
 between the big toe and the rest of the foot, so as to allow 
 the strap of his clogs to pass between. These clogs consist 
 of a flat sole of wood about half an inch thick, wffiich rests on 
 
8 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. I. 
 
 two broad wooden uprights at toe and heel. A straw cord 
 comes up between the big toe and the next one, and separates 
 into two parts, which join the clog halfway along. As there 
 is no fastening at the back, a continual drag has to be kept on 
 the clog or it would fall off, the result of which is that very 
 shambling gait which is one of the peculiarities noticed in 
 walking through a Japanese town. This young man, like 
 most others now, has allowed his hair to grow all over his 
 head in European fashion. 
 
 “ But before going further we must notice the arrangement 
 of the hair which is peculiar to the Japanese men. The head 
 
 HAIR OF LABOURER. 
 
 is shaved, from the forehead to a little behind the crown. 
 The hair is grown at the sides and back, then a kind of 
 short pigtail is made of the upper part of the back-hair, 
 which is stuck together with cosmetic, doubled, and the 
 point brought partly over the shaved part of the head, as 
 in the engraving above. This practice is fast dying out, 
 though, and even now is almost confined to the working 
 classes. 
 
 “ Let us now take a glance at a shop or two, and see in 
 what they differ from those we are accustomed to. Here on 
 our right we see a low built wooden house. We go inside the 
 door; the proprietor is sitting on his heels on the floor, which 
 
CHAP. I.] 
 
 OUn ARBIVAL IN JAPAN. 
 
 9 
 
 is raised about a foot and a half above the ground, and is 
 smoothly covered with clean matting. He has his bronze 
 hibashi, or brazier, before him. One arm is resting on it, 
 while one hand is sj^read over the fire of red-hot ashes. In 
 his other hand is his small silver pipe, with its diminutive bowl. 
 The moment we enter he taps the ashes out of this pipe into 
 the hibashi, and makes his reverence with his forehead on the 
 ground. If we wish to purchase anything, a certain amount of 
 preliminary incredulity and subsequent beating down is often 
 necessary here as in most other places in the East. He asks 
 us to be seated, and pushes some flat cushions to the edge of 
 the floor so as to enable us to keep our feet on the ground, 
 and thus avoid taking off our boots, which would be necessary 
 if we were to mount on to his floor. He calls to some one 
 in the back room of the house, which is shut off' by a paper 
 partition with wooden framework, and in a few minutes a boy 
 appears with tea, which we are invited to take while we look 
 over some of his stock. After making a few purchases and 
 drinking the tea, with which the cups are continually re- 
 plenished, we wish him good-day, and leave him repeating 
 his obeisance, and producing that remarkable sound which is 
 so common in Japan, of sucking in the breath between the 
 teeth and lips, and terminating in a noise made with the 
 throat, which is rather suggestive of asthma. These sounds 
 almost always accompany a bow either on meeting or leaving 
 a person. Passing on, every shop is a picture, even though 
 it be for the sale of casks or wine-bottles. The clean white 
 ribs of the cask held together by rings of green willow ; the 
 masses of common blue and white china sake bottles, shelf 
 above shelf, and layer above layer, are pleasing to the eye, 
 and so help in their way to increase that fascination with 
 the country which every foreigner feels after a short stay 
 in Japan, and which is of course contributed to by every 
 evidence of taste and artistic sense in the Japanese in things 
 however trifling and unimportant. 
 
 “ But what is that curious structure at the end of the 
 street ? Well, it does look curious at first, but before many 
 days have passed it will seem as familiar as a church-spire at 
 
10 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. I. 
 
 home. It is the sign that you are approaching a Shinto 
 temple, and if you look beyond you will see nestled among 
 the trees the steep thatched roof of the temple itself, which 
 is entered by a flight of steps, at the foot of which may be 
 seen a little group of devotees making their obeisances before 
 the shrine. Even at this distance, if we look carefully into 
 the shadow cast by the overhanging roof, we can see the 
 glimmer of the round mirror which appears to be one of the 
 symbols of the Shinto faith. 
 
 “ As we draw nearer we find that the archway we have 
 noticed consists of two large upright posts some two and a 
 half feet in diameter, across the tops of which is laid a beam, 
 projecting over them and curving slightly upward. A few 
 inches below this is a second and smaller beam, parallel to it, 
 and which hears a framed board on which is inscribed in 
 Japanese characters the name of the temple. The whole 
 structure is painted a bright red,t and is altogether about 
 fifteen or eighteen feet high. We can now distinctly see 
 the mirror in the centre of the temple, surrounded by those 
 wands with curiously cut tassels of white paper which are 
 called gohei, and which are seen in every Shinto temple. The 
 original idea of them might have been that of a duster, as it 
 is the custom of the priests to make two or three passes 
 with them in the air before praying, apparently for the pur- 
 pose of clearing the atmosphere from any impurities before 
 invoking the god. Here, too, are the worshippers, some 
 kneeling, some standing at the foot of the steps. Let us 
 watch this new-comer for a moment. He walks to the foot 
 of the steps, throws a coin on to them, and stands for some 
 seconds gazing into the temple, then raises his hands and 
 claps them sharply three times. He then places them together 
 and bends his head, muttering a short prayer. After another - 
 prolonged gaze at the sacred mirror and its surroundings, 
 
 *“ The mirror, we afterwards found, Ernest Satow. *‘E. T. K.” 
 
 although a sacred Shinto emblem, f “ This painting of the <om appears 
 was not displayed in early Shinto ako to be traceable to Buddhism, but 
 
 temples. Its public use came in it is not at all unfrequent now. 
 with Buddhism, according to Mr. “ E. T. R.” 
 
CHAP. I.] 
 
 OUR ARRIVAL IN JAPAN 
 
 11 
 
 he moves off to make room for other equally devout wor- 
 shippers, who present their offerings, go through the same 
 ceremony, and in their turn make way for others, and so on. 
 The clapping of the hands is only saved from appearing 
 ridiculous to foreigners by the thoroughly reverent and 
 earnest looks of the worshippers. The object of this, we are 
 told, is to attract the attention of the Ji'ami, or god, to the 
 prayers which are to follow. As we turn to leave we take a 
 final glance at the temple, and notice for the first time 
 that the richly coloured chickens amongst the carving under 
 the roof are moving their heads and wings in a decidedly 
 natural manner. We are told to our astonishment that these 
 birds are sacred, and so are allowed to take their roost on 
 the very temple itself ; but we have no doubt that were 
 we to scatter a little food on the ground, their strictly reli- 
 gious proclivities would be, at any rate for the time, 
 overcome, and that they would show themselves worldly 
 enough to give way to temptation, and leave their exalted 
 perch. 
 
 “ Near the torii, or archway, we meet two men in curious- 
 looking dresses, whom we discover to be priests of the temple. 
 One is dressed in flowing white robes, with baggy sleeves, 
 the ordinary socks and clogs, and wears a stiff headdress of 
 linen or silk, somewhat resembling a peaked nightcap doubled 
 backwards with the peak hanging down. The other wears 
 richer-looking robes, made apparently of brocaded silk, but 
 of the same shape as the first ; his headdress is quite dif- 
 ferent, however, consisting of a lacquered black hat, the 
 shape of which is roughly rectangular, but has a deep dent 
 in the front, and is crinkled all over. It is about four inches 
 high, and projects beyond the head at the back with a slight 
 curve upwards. They make a polite bow as we pass, and 
 wish us good-day. We are told that the first is an ordinary 
 Shinto priest, while the second is the chief priest of the 
 temple. 
 
 “ Just after leaving the temple we meet an object which 
 looks like a very large, cabinet of some sort with legs and 
 feet taking a quiet stroll through the town. On nearer 
 
12 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. I. 
 
 approach this resolves itself into two tall narrow boxes, 
 through which, about three fourths of the way up, passes 
 a stout bar of wood, which rests on the shoulder of the 
 man to whom the legs belong. At first this appears an 
 enormous load for one man to carry, hut on closer examina- 
 tion we find that it is merely a framework of light wood 
 barely strong enough to support its contents. If we watch 
 this man for a few moments he will probably very soon find 
 a suitable place for depositing his shop, for such it is ; when 
 we shall see the two boxes quickly opened and converted 
 into stands on which to place his wares. 
 
 “ But we must continue our walk, for there is much to 
 see and wonder at. Every few hundred yards we pass one 
 of the best results of the introduction of European customs 
 in the form of a neatly dressed and business-like policeman. 
 His uniform consists of a dark-blue coat reaching below 
 the knees, with collar and cujffs of bright yellow cloth. He 
 wears a white belt, and a peaked cap with a yellow band 
 and a silver badge in front. Under his arm he carries an 
 ominously thick stick some four feet long, which gives 
 to the mildest and most harmless-looking policeman that 
 appearance of latent power which is so necessary to their 
 profession. 
 
 “ Most of the people we pass now are of the lower classes, 
 as we are approaching the poorer quarter of the town. The 
 men are mostly dressed in a short sort of cloak of dark blue 
 material with hanging sleeves, which is open down the front. 
 The lower part of this is ornamented with a white pattern, 
 often resembling the Greek key. On the back is a large 
 Japanese character surrounded by a white ring. This is 
 generally the emblem or sign adopted by their employer. 
 Under this cloak an inner garment of darker material is 
 worn, the thickness of this varying according to the time of 
 year. They wear tight-fitting trousers of dark blue. They 
 go generally with the head bare, but sometimes wear a light- 
 blue figured handkerchief tied under the chin. While walking 
 along between the low wooden houses with their heavily tiled 
 roofs, we have abundant opportunities of seeing every phase 
 
CHAP. I.] 
 
 OUR ARRIVAL IN JAPAN. 
 
 13 
 
 of domestic life. Here we see a party of little cliilclren 
 with their bright dresses of imitation crape (cliirimen), and 
 their little heads clean shaved with the exception of four 
 little tufts, one in front, one behind, and one at each side. 
 Some are flying kites made in the shape of diminutive men 
 with outspread arms, while the smaller ones are confining 
 their attention to the perilous occupation of climbing down 
 from the raised floor of the houses to the road, and there 
 making their first attempts at walking in clogs ; and as they 
 always secure the biggest ones at hand, their endeavours are 
 often extremely amusing. The moment a jinrihi-sha is 
 seen approaching, the children immediately show a strong 
 desire to he on the opposite side of the road, the result of 
 this generally being a series of narrow escapes, which would 
 in many cases he bad accidents were it not that the jinrika- 
 sha is so quickly swerved aside or stopped. 
 
 “ In passing a side street we are struck by the doleful 
 notes of some instrument, which is evidently approaching us 
 by the increasing clearness of the sound. We will stay a 
 moment and find out whence it comes. In a few moments a 
 figure appears, which halts every now and then, and each 
 time the sound we first heard is repeated, and is follow’ed by 
 a low droning cry. As it gets nearer we find it is a blind 
 man, who feels his way with a stick and carries a reed-pipe. 
 On inquiry we learn that this man’s profession is that of a 
 shampooer. The system of shampooing has become quite an 
 institution in Japan. Any one suffering from rheumatism or 
 any pain which rubbing would relieve calls in one of these 
 men, who are continually passing, and undergoes a course of 
 kneading and hammering and pinching in the part affected, 
 or all over the body if he wishes it. The few notes on the 
 pipe and the low cry of “ amma ” (great stress being laid on 
 the m’s, which causes the peculiar droning sound) combine to 
 form one of the most plaintive street cries imaginable. Our 
 curiosity being satisfied we pass on, and in a few minutes 
 find ourselves approaching the open country. Here on the 
 roadside is a square stone column about six feet high, on 
 which is carved in Japanese characters the name of the 
 
14 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. I. 
 
 town we are leaving, and probably also that of the Ken, or 
 prefecture. 
 
 “We will now take a glance at scenery of a type which 
 is common to most parts of Japan. The road runs on an 
 embankment, some five or six feet high, between rice- (or 
 paddy-) fields, w^hich are almost invariably under two or three 
 inches of water, and which cover all the level ground. Be- 
 yond these rise hills of marked outline, but of no great 
 height, up which the rice-fields climb terrace above terrace 
 until there is not a square foot of available ground un- 
 occupied. At intervals we pass clusters of wooden huts, 
 apparently deserted ; but if we look carefully over the sur- 
 rounding fields, we shall probably see the owners with their 
 wives and children, with wicker baskets in their arms, up to 
 their knees in mud and water. They are evidently working 
 hard, but Tvhat the exact nature of their work is it is difficult 
 to see. Jinrihi-shas occasionally pass us on the road, their 
 occupants being often asleep, and remaining so with a 
 determination which is truly remarkable, considering the 
 faulty nature of the road. Occasionally the monotony of the 
 fields is broken by a bamboo-forest, over which the faintest 
 breath of wind sends a wavy sheen as it reveals the silvery 
 under-side of the leaves. Now and then the road is bordered 
 on either side by those lofty pines of distorted shape which 
 are so often represented in Japanese art. They twist and 
 turn and stretch out their crooked arms in every direction, 
 at times joining hands with their comrades on the opposite 
 side of the road, as if taking part in some weird, fantastic 
 dance, which is only interrupted for the moment to allow 
 us to pass. 
 
 “ Gradually the wooden huts become more frequent, and 
 at last become almost continuous, developing finally into a 
 long straggling town of one street. As we get farther into 
 it, the huts improve gradually in size and style, until the 
 middle portion of the town consists of a series of well-to-do- 
 looking shops. Here we see the one European house, 
 w^hich w^e now recognise immediately as the police-station. 
 Opposite this is the principal ehaya, or tea-house, which 
 
CHAP. I.] 
 
 OUB ABIUVAL IN JAPAN. 
 
 15 
 
 corresponds to an inn in Europe. The raised lower floor 
 seems one vast expanse of matting, stretching far hack from 
 the street. We stop here for some tea, while o\xy jinriki-shas 
 are changed and a relay of men is obtained. We are 
 welcomed by the girl-attendants of the place, who bow low 
 and conduct us to a back room, where we ensconce ourselves 
 • on the floor round the hihashis, or ash fires. The girls 
 then bring us tea, in the diminutive cups peculiar to the 
 country, and sit down to watch for an opportunity to 
 replenish them, endeavouring meanwhile to tempt us to 
 taste some of the curious, and at first uninviting, cakes 
 which usually accompany the Japanese tea, and the most 
 common form of which resembles square blocks of ‘ Turkish 
 delight.’ Meanwhile the jinriki-slia men are making the 
 most of their time outside. Each man has his bowl of rice 
 in hand, and is transferring its contents as fast as possible 
 to his mouth by means of chopsticks. The bowl is held 
 close up to the mouth, so that the process is simple and the 
 transfer rapid, d’his rice, with the addition of a cup or two 
 of sal'e (the spirituous drink of the country), will fit him 
 for several hours of steady running over any country you 
 please. We are soon in ouv jinriki-sha and off again. The 
 inhabitants come out to their doors and often form up in 
 the streets to see the ijin-sang (foreigners) go past. Each 
 tries to get a good view as we drive through, and we 
 see youthful messengers sent off in all directions to bring 
 absent relations, in order that no one may miss the extra- 
 - ordinary sight of a pale-faced man riding in a jinrihi-sha ; 
 for even now the sight appears to be a novel one in most 
 parts of Japan. 
 
 “ Leaving the town, we pass on through scenery which 
 varies in picturesqueness in proportion to the nearness or 
 distance of the hill country. At times the road crosses 
 swiftly-flowing streams. In them we may sometimes notice 
 a system of breakwaters or groins much used in Japan. In 
 places where the bank is soft and is exposed to the swirl 
 and rush of the river, you may see a series of these, formed 
 of large stones or flints inclosed in wicker baskets, which 
 
16 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. I. 
 
 are by no means unsightly, and yet most effectual in their 
 operation. Shinto temples are passed every now and then, 
 hut as we have visited one already we will confine ourselves 
 to taking a peep at a typical Buddhist temple. In the place 
 of the tor a of the Shinto temple, we here pass through a 
 kind of monster lych-gate with a huge overhanging roof 
 built of small pieces of bark, immediately below which the 
 wood is profusely carved after the fashion of Chinese 
 buildings. The central part of this building is taken up by 
 the gateway itself, but on either side of this stand the 
 colossal demons which guard so many temples in Japan. 
 To say that they are absolutely hideous would be decided 
 flattery. One is red, the other green ; they both are in 
 striking, ferocious attitudes, and their faces are distorted 
 with demoniac fury. They are immensely muscular, and 
 altogether seem hardly an inviting pair to put at the 
 entrance to a place of worship. It is reassuring to notice, 
 however, that a thick wire netting is fixed between us and 
 these unpleasant champions of religion. This netting is, 
 we find, more for their protection than ours, as it is to 
 prevent the too easy exercise of a form of religion entirely 
 new to us, which consists of ejecting from the mouth small 
 pellets of well-damped paper at the bodies of these gaily 
 painted fiends. If the pellet sticks on the figure the marks- 
 man is in favour with the gods, and is likely to fare well in 
 the future ; but if it refuses to stick, it is a sign that either 
 his principles or his practices are at fault, and need careful 
 consideration. 
 
 “ Passing through by the paved way, we find ourselves 
 before a building resembling in its general features the 
 temple of the other religion, but we have only to glance 
 into the interior to discover that there is a marked difference. 
 In the place of the simple mirror and paper gohei of the 
 Shinto temple, we here find a glittering image of Buddha, 
 encased in a shrine no less brilliant than the god himself ; 
 on right and left shine attendant deities, who, in their 
 gilded brightness, stand out from the sombre shadow cast 
 by the temple roof. Here, too, we find the lotus in profu- 
 
CHAP. I.] 
 
 OUR ARRIVAL IN JAPAN. 
 
 17 
 
 sion, a beautiful emblem of the Buddhist faith. Lacquered 
 rails inclose a large space around the shrine, which is 
 unapproachable to any but the priests, who sit, or rather 
 kneel, on right and left, with their quaint robes and shaven 
 heads. Worshippers come and go. They kneel before the 
 rails, pray, and retire, but the priests take no notice 
 whatever, as they are simply in attendance on the shrine. 
 Here, also, small coin are thrown as offerings to the god, 
 just as they were in the Shinto temple. Beyond the shrine 
 on both sides there hang portraits of the founder of the 
 temple, and other ecclesiastics who have had some connection 
 with it at some time or another, and round behind the 
 shrine we shall probably find many old relics associated in 
 some way with the past history of the place. Temples, of 
 course, vary like everything else, but the differences are 
 only minor ones, so that every Buddhist temple in the 
 country preserves that element of gaudiness and decoration 
 which contrasts so strongly with the plain and unpreten- 
 tious style of the Shinto temples. 
 
 “ In passing on through the country one is struck by 
 the scarcity of birds and animals. Hawks and eagles are, 
 perhaps, the most frequently seen, and crows also are fairly 
 numerous ; but with the exception of these, the Howls of the 
 air ’ are but poorly represented. Cranes are to be seen, but 
 they are not nearly so common as one would expect, con- 
 sidering the part they play in Japanese art of all kinds. 
 Wild ducks and wild geese are much more abundant, 
 especially in the castle moats, where the shooting of them is 
 prohibited. Domestic animals are scarce, and are but poor 
 specimens when one does see them. The dogs are either 
 of a type closely resembling the Constantinople “ pariah,” 
 brethren both in appearance and habits, or else they are 
 those balls of fluffy hair with little pug-noses which are 
 known in England as Japanese dogs. The cats are shorn 
 of their tails, and it is probably owing to this that their 
 bashfulness keeps them almost always out of sight. The 
 Japanese horse is small and shaggy. His mane stands on 
 end, and his tail is rough and long. His legs and body 
 
 VOL. II. c 
 
18 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. I. 
 
 are well built for the uses be is usually put to, but as a 
 riding horse his general appearance could hardly be termed 
 elegant. In some parts of Japan, on the Tokaido, for instance, 
 one may already pass occasionally a thoroughly European 
 excursion van drawn by one or two horses, and filled with 
 country people, who look perfectly at home in what they, a 
 few years ago, regarded as a barbarous monstrosity.” 
 
 RINTO, OH DRAGON LANTERN, KOEUKUJl. 
 
( 19 ) 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 A MONTH IN THE EASTERN CAPITAL.- 
 
 (All- courteous icccptioii there — Imperial princes and princesses — Ministers 
 of state — The prime minister Sanjo — The founding of Tokio (Yedo) — 
 The castle — Splendid temples — Wooyeiio Park — European buildings — 
 Native shops — The metropolitan temple of Asakusa — The Nio, or 
 giant gate-keepers — The remedial idol, Binzuru — Curious modes of 
 worship — A praying-wheel — Japanese lacquer and bronze — Devoted 
 woi’kmen — Early lacquer-work — Decline and revival of the manufacture 
 — The processes employed — Early and modern bronzes — Modes of pro- 
 duction — Exact reproductions avoided — Art-work — Coloured pictures 
 in metal — Eepousse work — An unequalled work of art — The paper- 
 mills of Oji — Paper-manufacture — Multiplied uses of paper — The 
 government and administration of Tokio — An official statistical account. 
 
 Our first month in Japan was spent in the city of Tokio 
 and its vicinity. The courtesy shown us was from the 
 beginning very great, most of the ministers and principal 
 officials taking an early opportunity of calling, and welcoming 
 us to their hospitable land. One of the members of the 
 government. General Kuroda, who was absent in the distant 
 northern island of Yezo, the government of which is part 
 of his duty as colonial minister, telegraphed a friendly 
 message, and invited us, notwithstanding his absence, to 
 visit his department in the capital, following up our visit 
 there by presents of sea-otter skins from the Kurile Islands, 
 and other specimens of the products of the northern provinces 
 of Japan. The other heads of state departments acted with 
 similar promptness, and gave us invitations, many of which 
 we were unable to accept until after our return from our 
 visit to the interior. 
 
 An early opportunity was afforded us of making the 
 
 c 2 
 
20 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. II. 
 
 personal acquaintance of the leading personages of the 
 country, under the more festive circumstances of a dinner 
 party, held at the house of Admiral Kawamura. On this 
 occasion there were present, besides our host and hostess, 
 their imperial highnesses the Prince and Princess Arisugawa, 
 who occupy the stations nearest to the throne. To the 
 services of the prince in the suppression of the Satsuma 
 rebellion, and the distinctions conferred upon him by the 
 emperor at its conclusion, I have already referred. There 
 were also present the imperial Prince and Princess Higashi 
 Fushimi, who come next in nearness to the emperor. The 
 party likewise comprised the prime minister, Sanjo ; the vice 
 minister, Iwakura ; Mr. Okuma, the minister of finance ; Mr. 
 Terashima, the foreign minister, and his wife ; Mr. Ito, the 
 home minister ; General Saigo, minister at war ; Mr. Enouye, 
 minister of public works, with his wife and adopted 
 daughter; Mr. Oki, the minister of justice; General 
 Yamagata, the commander-in-chief of the army ; and 
 several other ladies and gentlemen. The dinner was served 
 in European fashion, but with several pretty accompaniments 
 unknown at home, among which may be mentioned the 
 serving of a pie out of which, when presented to me, there 
 fiew a number of small birds with written sentiments of 
 welcome attached to their legs. All the gentlemen on the 
 occasion wore European dress, but most of the ladies were in 
 the picturesque native costume, some of them having the 
 teeth blackened and the eyebrows shaved off, with artificial 
 indications of others in colour higher up, after the ancient 
 style of the country. The two princesses were not so 
 adorned, or dis-adorned, as the case may be, but were dressed 
 in robes of scarlet (the imperial colour), and had their hair 
 wrought, so to speak, halo-fashion, as shown in the portraits 
 of the empress. This mode of dressing the hair is ma- 
 terially different from that common among Japanese ladies, 
 and appears to be special to members of the Mikado’s family. 
 I am afraid that neither my son nor myself were at all 
 worthy of our privileges on this occasion, as neither of us 
 could address a word in their own language to either of the 
 
CHAP. II.] A MONTH IN THE EASTERN CAPITAL. 21 
 
 imperial and noble ladies between whom we respectively 
 had the honour to sit. The course of the dinner, however 
 (served in a manner wholly unknown, apparently, to the 
 ladies of the court), furnished opportunities, we may hope, 
 for those little attentions which are often quite as pleasant, 
 and far more useful, than any words. At the conclusion of 
 the dinner, after toasting the Emperor and our Queen, his 
 excellency the prime minister proposed the health of the 
 guest, doing me the honour to make the most gratifying 
 references to the ships which had been constructed for the 
 imperial government under my care, and intimating that it 
 was the wish of his majesty the emperor, no less than that 
 of himself and his colleagues in the government, that my 
 son and I should be made heartily welcome to Japan, and have 
 the fullest opportunities afforded us of seeing, without veil 
 or hindrance, anything and everything that might be of in- 
 terest to us — a wish that was most courteously and completely 
 carried out, doubtless as a compliment to our country, and to 
 the parliament of which I was a member, much more than to 
 ourselves alone. After what has been recounted in former 
 chapters, I need not say that the princes and ministers who 
 attended this banquet were men of the most representative 
 character, and were in large part the authors as well as 
 the witnesses of the immense changes that have passed over 
 Japan. We have seen the parts they played, and it is 
 unnecessary further to advert to them here. 
 
 The city of Tokio, now the eastern capital of the country, 
 was founded, as we have seen, nearly three centuries ago by 
 lyeyasu, the founder likewise of the quasi -royal dynasty of 
 the Tokugawa Shoguns, more commonly known, perhaps, as 
 the Tycoons (or Tai-Kuns) of Japan. Its great feature was, 
 and still is, its castle, the word being here employed in 
 its comprehensive sense, inclusive of all the grounds and 
 
 * “ Tai-Kun ” was au unauthorised and the term was employed in trans- 
 title sometimes assumed by the actions with foreigners of late years. 
 
 Shoguns, signifying great or exalted Under the form “ Tycoon ” it lias 
 
 ruler. The Shogun lycmitsu of- often been used, but Shogun is the 
 
 iieially (but unlawfully) employed it, proper and authorised designation. 
 
22 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. II. 
 
 buildings comprised within its outer moats. The origin of 
 this castle was noted in the chapter on lyeyasu ; it grew 
 from time to time, until at length it had no less than eight- 
 and-forty gates. The moat winds in a sort of huge distorted 
 spiral round the centre, in approaching which from any 
 direction the water would have to he crossed (were that prac- 
 ticable) at least twice, and often, according to the direction 
 of approach, four times. The outermost limb of the water 
 spiral, so to speak, is formed by the lower part of the 
 largest of the rivers. The principal palaces have been 
 destroyed by fires occurring at different times, and at 
 present none but garden houses and other minor buildings 
 exist in the interior, or what may be called the imperial 
 parts of the castle inclosure. 
 
 x\nother feature of the modern capital, Tokio, is the great 
 temple district of Shiba, near to which Admiral Kawamura, 
 with whom we stayed, resides, and through which we often 
 had occasion to drive. It is a beautiful spot, in large jmrt 
 adorned with fine old trees, and here and there rising into 
 wooded slopes and hills. Within its picturesque inclosures 
 are the splendid tomb-temples of the Tokugawas — those of 
 them which remain, fire having devoured the finest of them. 
 These groves of Shiba were once secluded and sacred ; they 
 are now largely opened up to public traffic and utility. 
 Some regret the change, others glory in it. The shrines 
 that remain are striking examples of ecclesiastical art and 
 decoration as applied in Buddhist temples under the patronage 
 of the rich and powerful. Another beautiful spot of like 
 associations, but made far less beautiful than aforetime by 
 both battle and fire, is Wooyeno, or Uyeno, on the opposite 
 side of the city. I have elsewhere mentioned the struggle 
 that occurred there after the recent imperial restoration ; 
 suffice it here to say that its elevated grounds furnish a 
 beautiful prospect over the widespread city; that the old and 
 the new there exist side by side in strange contrast, an old 
 colossal image of Buddha, with its lanterns and other sacred 
 accessories, looking down upon the entrance to a modern 
 restaurant, where travellers, Japanese and foreigners. 
 
CHAP. TT.] A MOyrn IN THE EASTEEN CAPITAL 
 
 23 
 
 refresh themselves in European fashion in a way (as we 
 more than once had opportunities of experiencing) not 
 unworthy, say, of the Cafe Cascade in the Bois. In the 
 springtime, when the cherry and the plum break into 
 blossom, the heights and groves and temple paths of Woo- 
 yeno, peopled with the picturesque and happy Japanese, 
 form quite a paradise. There are Tokugawa temples here 
 too, bright but now neglected memorials of a family which 
 the exigencies of the period have made it necessary to 
 repress, but which, as I think, when the story of Japan 
 comes to be written a century or two hence, will take a 
 high place among those who gave peace to the land, and 
 encouraged the pursuit of those arts and studies which are 
 the allies of innocence and healthful pleasures.* 
 
 Although Tokio is in the main still a Japanese city, 
 exhibiting everywhere the life, the customs, and the costumes 
 of the Japanese people, it bears many manifest and obtrusive 
 evidences of European interposition. The railway, with its 
 European station and equipments, is the first great contrast 
 with the native architecture and appliances which strikes 
 one. Not far from it is the foreign settlement, where many 
 of the houses are of European type; and in looking over 
 the city from an eminence, one sees bank buildings, schools, 
 and occasional residences of foreign pattern rising up above 
 the less elevated Japanese buildings — less elevated save as 
 regards the temples alone, which here and there stand up 
 high above all other Japanese constructions. Most of the 
 great educational establishments, such as the University, the 
 College of Engineering, the Military College, and the Naval 
 College, are of European style ; as are also some of the 
 barracks, and likewise some of the manufacturing establish- 
 ments. In fact, buildings of this style, with which alone 
 
 * In saying this I am not nn- son with that of the Ashikagas, 
 
 mindful of tlie many evils of the which went before it — and history 
 
 Tokugawa rule, or regretful because will in part so judge it — it well 
 it has passed away. Judging it by merits the favourable recognition of 
 our European standards, it was bad impartial persons, 
 enough ; but judging it by compari- 
 
24 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. II. 
 
 we are familiar at home, but which were perfectly unknown 
 in Tokio a few years ago, are now very frequent and 
 conspicuous objects in the bird’s-eye view of the city. 
 
 The business streets and the shops of Tokio are, with few 
 or no exceptions, purely Japanese, the number of foreign 
 residents being so few in proportion to the million of its 
 inhabitants as in no degree to interfere with the native 
 aspect of the place as one walks or drives along its thorough- 
 fares. The interest felt as we move about among the people, 
 looking into the stores and places of business, never flags. 
 Such is the native taste for artistic forms and groupings 
 of objects, that even the commonest shops first arrest the eye 
 with masses of brightness and colour, and then amuse the 
 mind with curious and fanciful details. An ordinary 
 Japanese china shop is as entertaining an “ arrangement 
 in blue and white ” as one of the cabinets of Governor Pope 
 Hennessy at Hong Kong, or of Sir Henry Thompson in 
 Wimpole Street. And the leisurely shopkeepers, male or 
 female, or both, inhaling frequent whiffs of tobacco with 
 philosophic calmness, and yet always alert, and always 
 courteous to the visitor, add to the pleasing attractiveness 
 of the place, contrasting with the eager money-grasping 
 habits that one gets too much accustomed to in other lands. 
 
 One of our earliest visits of inspection in Tokio was to 
 the temple of Asakusa, a notable place of its kind, and full 
 of interest to the stranger. It may be regarded as the 
 principal Buddhist temple of Tokio, and is dedicated to 
 Kwannon, sometimes god and sometimes goddess, to whose 
 Indian origin, multiplied incarnations, and Japanese popu- 
 larity I have elsewhere adverted. Asakusa was once an 
 outlying village near Yedo ; the city of Tokio may now be 
 said not only to embrace it, but to have endowed it with an 
 essentially metropolitan character. It is in many senses 
 the most popular and frequented temple in the capital, and 
 attracts crowds continually to its shrines, and larger crowds 
 more continually to its precincts. But let no one imagine 
 for a moment that the attractions of this temple bear any 
 sort of relation to the attractions which draw the crowd 
 
CHAP. II.] A MONTH IN THE EASTERN CAPITAL. 25 
 
 either to the Abbey of Westminster or to the Surrey 
 Tabernacle or to the Pro-Cathedral of Kensington. Dif- 
 ferent as are the influences which invite our people to these 
 churches respectively, and to those of which these are 
 types, and to the many other churches which attract by 
 forces existing in none of these, the Buddhist temples of 
 Japan are entirely out of relation to all of them. Nor, 
 so far as one can see, are they in any more relation to the 
 animating principles of the faith on which they are founded. 
 There is but little indeed in the thronged Asakusa to 
 remind one of the “ grey-haired saint ” Asita, whose ears, 
 
 ‘'Long closed to earthly things, caught heavenly sounds, 
 
 And heard at prayer beneath his peepul-tree 
 The Devas singing songs at Buddha’s birth.” 
 
 And quite as little is there to remind one of the after 
 musings of “ Lord Buddha ” himself, when in sylvan soli- 
 tudes he forgot himself in 
 
 “ The woes of men. 
 
 The ways of fate, the doctrines of the books. 
 
 The lessons of the creatures of the brake. 
 
 The secrets of the silence wdience all comes. 
 
 The secrets of the gloom whereto all go. 
 
 The life which lies between, like that arch flung 
 From cloud to cloud across the sky, which hath 
 Mists for its masonry and vapoury piers. 
 
 Melting to void again which was so fair 
 With sapphire hues, garnet, and chrysoprase.” * 
 
 The attractions of Asakusa are those of a fair rather 
 than those of a temple. The approach is by a long stone- 
 paved avenue of shops and stalls, and the sides and back 
 of the temple are surrounded by tea-houses, waxwork ex- 
 hibitions, archery rooms, monkey shows, and other enter- 
 tainments. In the immediate neighbourhood singing girls 
 make merry the hearts of citizens and pilgrims, filling 
 their ears with joyous music, and their eyes with dancing 
 pictures. “ There is nothing strange to the Japanese mind 
 
 * For these and the lines immediately preceding, see Edwin Arnold’s 
 ‘ Light of Asia.’ 
 
26 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. it. 
 
 in this association of temples and toy-shops. The good 
 bonzes in their sermons declare, as the result of their 
 exegesis and meditations, that husbands are bound to love 
 their wives, and show it by allowing them plenty of pin- 
 money and hair-pins, and to be not bitter against them 
 by denying them neat dresses and handsome girdles. The 
 farmer who comes to town with his daughter turns from 
 prayer to the purchase of pomatum or a mirror ” (Griffis). 
 
 Before the temple of Asakusa stands, as is usual with 
 the Buddhist temples of Japan, the gateway (Niomon), in 
 this case a huge construction, within which, one on either 
 side, scowl the grim giant gatekeepers (Nio), carved and 
 coloured with cruel art into triumphs of the hideous and 
 the demoniacal. One, coloured red, is said to represent the 
 Yo or male principle of the Chinese philosophy ; the other, 
 coloured green, is said to represent the female principle.* 
 The temple itself swarms with gods and shrines and 
 emblems and votive gifts, and is a very busy place indeed. 
 A large bronze censer fronts you as you enter, surmounted 
 by a rampant animal that seems in strange contrast with 
 what one would fain conceive of as the sacredness of the 
 place. Before the high-altar is a huge box or coffer to 
 receive the money gifts of the people. The altar itself 
 is screened with an open fabric of wire. The methods 
 of worship are various. Besides the bowing and the 
 rubbing of the hands which compose one method, and 
 the use of strings of beads like those employed by Eoman 
 
 * “ Ni-wo-son (Two Honoured 
 Kings), the guardians of the right and 
 left. These are always placed under 
 the gateway, as may be seen at 
 Asakusa, and formerly at Shiba. 
 The most celebrated are at Shiba- 
 yama-mura, in Kadzusa. The idols 
 are erect figures with flowing robes ; 
 that on the light, facing the temple, 
 is red, has its mouth open, and re- 
 presents the Yo or male principle of 
 Chinese philosophy. That on the 
 left is green ; the mouth is firmly 
 
 closed, indicative of silence, the fe- 
 male In principle. Small prints of 
 these, pasted on the beams over the 
 entrances of houses, protect them 
 from burglars and thieves. Tra- 
 vellers on foot present large straw 
 sandals, and hang them at these 
 places. They also burn sen ho (in- 
 cense), and pray for pedestrian 
 strength to perform their journey.” 
 — rfoundcs, ‘ Fu so Mimi Bukuro.’ — 
 See engraving facing p. 02, vol. i. 
 
CHAP. II.] A MONTH IN THE EA8TEBN CAPITAL. 
 
 27 
 
 Catholics which form another, there are two equally ^0urious, 
 but obviously of very unequal efficiency. Of these the 
 first — which is addressed to a god of moderate size and 
 accessible position, and which appears only applicable to 
 bodily ailments or imperfections — consists in rubbing that 
 part of the body of the idol which corresponds with the 
 defective limb or organ of the devotee, and then rubbing 
 that limb or organ itself with corresponding energy. 
 “Idols may he seen, well worn by devotees rubbing the 
 figure and then the corresponding portions of their own 
 bodies ; this god is called Binzuru Senja, and represents 
 the servant of the disciples of Shaka (Buddha), noted for 
 his energy and untiring perseverance in attending to his 
 duties ” (Pfoundes). Binzuru of Asakusa is a well-worn 
 idol, undergoing slow but very certain mutilation. The 
 features of his face are sadly reduced, not to say gone, 
 and his original comeliness of form, which may still he 
 inferred from what is left of him, has already disappeared. 
 Nor is this to he wondered at considering the energy with 
 which he is sometimes worshipped. On one occasion I 
 observed a woman, who scarcely seemed to need much 
 physical improvement judging from her outward figure, 
 vigorously extracting virtue from many parts of the sub- 
 missive image, and as zealously applying it, so that it 
 was difficult to discover if she had any soundness whatever 
 to let alone. I am inclined to believe that this lady was 
 too religious in her way, not to say fanatical, for all the 
 healing and active powers of poor Binzuru failed to satisfy 
 her, and she went from god to god, and from shrine to 
 shrine, with a steadiness and impartiality of devotion that 
 were most unusual. Like some other devotees that one 
 has known, however, while extracting all the blessings 
 and benefits that her faith could secure for her, she shied 
 (if I may so speak) at the sight of the coffers, and gave 
 nothing in the way of financial aid to the temple of her 
 choice. This conduct on her part is the more remarkable 
 as she gave no indication of having come in any degree 
 under the “ civilising ” influences now at work in the 
 
28 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. tt. 
 
 country; and selfishness does not seem to be a natural 
 characteristic of the Japanese people. 
 
 The other peculiar form 
 of worship to which I have 
 adverted, and which flour- 
 ishes in this and in similar 
 temples, consists in chew- 
 ing pellets of paper and 
 ‘‘ shying ” them at the idol. 
 If they stick, the fact is 
 taken as a sign that the 
 prayer is heard ; if they 
 fall off, it is a sign that it 
 is not heard. The Buddhist 
 gods are often elaborately 
 decorated with these em- 
 blems of piety, and it is 
 reasonable, perhaps, to infer 
 that the more there are of 
 them the greater is the 
 beneficence of the god. 
 
 This may he the proper 
 place for referring to yet 
 a third mode of worship, 
 which is to he found in 
 Japan as well as in India, 
 and which consists in pray- 
 ing by machinery. I did 
 not observe a praying- 
 machine within the temple 
 of Asakusa, but there is 
 one outside of it. It is 
 neither more nor less than 
 PRAYING-WHEEL ^ wlieel mounted in a stone 
 
 post. An account of a similar wheel at Hakodadi is 
 given with a sketch* in the official record of Commodore 
 
 * From wbicli the eiigraviiig 'which I give is roughly taken. 
 
CHAP. II.] 
 
 A MONTH IN THE EASTERN CAPITAL. 29 
 
 Perry’s American Expedition to Japan. It consisted of a 
 tall post, having an iron wheel inserted in a mortice upon an 
 axle. The wheel had three spokes, with two loose iron rings 
 upon each. The jingle of these rings calls the attention of 
 the god when the passer-hy turns the wheel. Every one 
 who turns the wheel is supposed to obtain credit for prayers 
 proportioned to the number of the wheel’s revolutions. 
 The four sides of the post are covered with Buddhistic 
 inscriptions, of which the compiler of the record referred 
 to gives the translations which I repeat in a footnote.* 
 The compiler also refers to the praying-mills of Thibet, 
 to some of which water-power has been applied, and 
 suggests to the Japanese the desirability of improving 
 upon this by employing steam-power for the purpose — 
 a suggestion which the modern Japanese will know how 
 to estimate at its just value, let us hope. 
 
 Other forms of devotion common in this temple and 
 throughout Japan are those of writing prayers on slips 
 of paper and attaching them to the shrine of the god to 
 
 * “ The great round mirror of 
 knowledge says, ‘ Wise men and fools 
 are embarked in the same boat ’ ; 
 whether prospered or afflicted, both 
 are rowing over the deep lake ; the 
 gay sails lightly hang to catch the 
 autumnal breeze; then away they 
 straight enter the lustrous clouds, 
 and become partakers of heaven’s 
 knowledge.” 
 
 “ The believing man, Hanyo Shen- 
 kaman, who no longer grows old.” 
 
 ‘‘ The believing woman, once called 
 Yuenning : happy was the day she 
 left.” 
 
 “ Multitudes fill the graves.” 
 
 “ To enable to enter the abodes of 
 the perfect, and to sympathise fully 
 with the men of the world, belongs to 
 Buddha. It is only by this one ve- 
 hicle, the coffin, we can enter Hades. 
 There is nought like Buddha, nothing 
 at all.” 
 
 “We of the huuiau race, with 
 
 hearts, minds, and understandings, 
 when we read the volumes of Buddha 
 enjoy great advantages.” 
 
 “He whose prescience detects 
 knowledge says: As the floating 
 
 grass is blown by the gentle breeze, 
 or the glancing ripples of autumn 
 disappear when the sun goes down, 
 or as the ship returns home to her 
 old shore, so is life, it is a smoke, a 
 morning tide.” 
 
 “ Buddha himself earnestly desires 
 to hear the name of this person (who 
 is buried), and wishes he may go to 
 life.” 
 
 “He who has left humanity is 
 now perfected by Buddha’s name, 
 as the withered moss is by the 
 dew.” 
 
 “ The canon of Buddha says. All 
 who reach the blissful laud will be- 
 come so (hat they cannot bo made to 
 transmigrate (or cliango for the 
 worse).” 
 
30 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. II. 
 
 be moved, and of suspending votive pictures and other 
 objects, after the fashion of many Eoman Catholic churches. 
 Some of these are memorials of gratitude for favours and 
 beneficent interventions in the past ; others are emblems 
 of prayer and propitiation for future benefits. All the 
 accidents, mischances, miracles, hopes, ambitions, and long- 
 ings of life are represented here ; and one is at a loss —when 
 looking, for example, at a framed and glazed picture of the 
 Pacific Mail Steamship Company’s ships which is hung up 
 here — to wonder whether one of the great metropolitan 
 temples of Japan is not being brought down to the 
 miserable level of our own towns and cities, in which the 
 advertiser is allowed to push from sight and sense every- 
 thing but his own monstrous impertinence, and the things 
 on behalf of which that is employed. “ Beyond the great 
 space devoted to the public are the various altars and gilt 
 images of the deities, sages, and saints of the Buddhist 
 Pantheon and Calendar. Candles burn, incense floats, 
 and the sacred books repose here. The privileged faithful 
 can, for a fee to the fat priests who sit behind their account- 
 books, come within the iron wire screen, and, kneeling on 
 the clean matting in front of the great altar, may pray, 
 or read or chant sacred books, canonical or liturgical, or, 
 having a vow to a particular deity, or wishing to invoke 
 the intercession of a special saint, may enter, to kneel 
 remote from the crowd ” (Grifiis). 
 
 It is unnecessary to recount here our visits to other 
 temples in Tokio, either Buddhist or Shinto, as in recording 
 our journey through the interior I shall have many occa- 
 sions to make mention of such. It was necessary to take 
 notice of that of Akasuka, owing to its unique celebrity, 
 and to the prominent place which it occupies in the present 
 life of the city. But as it has been described in detail 
 by others, I have been content to sketch its leading 
 characteristics. 
 
 Several days of our first month in Tokio were instructively 
 spent in acquainting ourselves with the methods pursued in 
 the production of the beautiful Japanese works of art in 
 
CHAP. II.] 
 
 A MONTH IN THE EASTERN CARITAL, 
 
 31 
 
 lacquer and bronze. Every process and detail were laid 
 open to our leisurely inspection, and delightful it was to 
 observe and watch the operations of the art-labourers. 
 These manufactures are carried on in small detached rooms 
 and workshops, which bear no resemblance whatever to the 
 great factories with which we are familiar at home, and 
 after many visits to them, both in the capital and in the 
 interior towns, I can cordially say with Dr. Dresser, who 
 visited Japan to study the subject, that “ while the art 
 processes of Japan are such as render the production of 
 quantity impossible if excellence is to be obtained, they yet 
 secure the highest degree of art merit.” I can likewise say 
 with him : “ I have watched the poor artisan labouring at his 
 work with an earnestness and love such as I never beheld 
 out of Japan, and the very features of the workmen testify 
 to their happiness, and to the love with which they perform 
 their painstaking labour. No thought of gain appears to 
 enter their minds, and no touch is spared which will make 
 the work more lovely ; this is how the beautiful works 
 which we delight to look upon are produced.” It is also 
 true, as has been said,* that “in the Japanese workman 
 there is first an intense love of nature ; he is a student of 
 nature, and loves birds, flowers, and insects, and he carries 
 out this love in his work. But the great point is that he 
 thinks, so to speak, through the material in which he works. 
 In all my experience and examination of Japanese objects I 
 have failed to find any evidence that the workman has 
 ever thought of imitating any other material, method, or 
 process than that in which and for which he was working,” 
 From the earliest days the production of lacquer-work 
 has been a specialty of Japan, and one in which it has never 
 been equalled. It is considered by some that it attained its 
 greatest artistic perfection in Japan about five hundred 
 years ago, of which and of former periods there are many 
 specimens extant, while the manufacturing skill lavished 
 upon it was greater from one to three centuries ago than at 
 
 * By Mr. George Wallia. 
 
32 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. it. 
 
 any other period. It is satisfactory to know, however, more 
 especially as the old lacquer of Japan is now becoming ex- 
 ceedingly rare and precious in the country,^ that although 
 large quantities of common lacquer-work is now produced in 
 the country, the art of producing the best work, in both a 
 manufacturing and artistic sense, is still fully preserved and 
 practised, although the value of labour has greatly increased, 
 of course, in the country since the days either of Taka -Uji or 
 of lyeyasu. The exhibition of Paris in 1878 furnished the 
 world with abundant proofs of this statement. This and 
 former European and American exhibitions, while amply 
 recompensing the Japanese exhibitors, have created so great 
 a further demand for their products that it is not easy to 
 sustain a proportionate supply. The difficulty lies in the 
 fact that the characteristic refinements and delicacies of 
 the best art have been handed down from age to age, from 
 father to son, and cannot be learnt from books or in schools 
 of apprenticeship. 
 
 I have said that this production of choice lacquer-work in 
 Japan comes down from very remote times. A book said to 
 have been written nearly two centuries before the Christian 
 era speaks of articles of lacquer being employed at the 
 court ; and we ourselves saw in the temple of Todaiji, in 
 the ancient capital of Nara, lacquer boxes for containing 
 prayer-books which appear to have been made in the third 
 century of our era, which are much admired by connoisseurs, 
 and are held to prove that the art had attained great ex- 
 cellence even in those ancient days. In the year 380 a.d. 
 a minister of state published a workf in which red and gold 
 lacquers are mentioned. In 410 an officer (Minamoto-no- 
 Juin) published another work,J in which he speaks of 
 lacquers of gold, and likewise of other lacquers known as 
 nasliiji, which are of orange colour sown with sparks of gold. 
 
 * “For a box about six inches 0. Dresser, at the Society of Arts, 
 
 square I was asked iu Japan My own experience corroborates 
 
 £100 steiling, and Lady Parkes told this. 
 
 me that line specimens were, ’in Tokio, f ‘ Fngishiki,’ by the Sa-Dai-jin. 
 
 bringing their weight in gold.” — Dr. J ‘ Utsubo Monogatari.’ 
 
CHAP. II.] A MONTH IN THE EASTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 33 
 
 and the makers of which he speaks of as very celebrated.” 
 In 480 a lady, who achieved literary renown, in one of her 
 works'^ speaks of a novel description of lacquer incrusted 
 with pearl. Further progress cannot be traced up to the 
 tenth century, early in which the country obtained rest 
 from centuries of political and military strife, and the 
 peaceful arts began once again to exhibit vigour. In an 
 official compilation published at the last Paris Exhibition it 
 is stated that at the beginning of that century the artistic 
 taste of Japan awakened, and its art-workmen applied them- 
 selves with devotion to the production of articles which 
 should be distinguished alike by the utmost solidity and 
 the greatest beauty, in order to keep pace with their neigh- 
 bours. The objects then produced unite these two qualities 
 in the highest degree, their creators having spared neither 
 time nor pains in the effort to produce works which should 
 carry their names down to posterity. The productions of 
 the Japanese lacquer-workers from the year 910 to 1650, 
 known as Jidai mono, are very highly esteemed. In the 
 long peace enjoyed subsequently under the Tokugawas the 
 taste for works of art extended, and the rich and noble 
 families came to consider articles in lacquer as indispensable 
 adornments of their palaces, and their production conse- 
 quently was greatly increased. But this and all other 
 branches of art and manufacture in Japan were dependent 
 upon local demands down to our own time, and only obtained 
 the stimulus of a foreign demand when in 1859 the port of 
 Yokohama was thrown open — or shall we say forced open ? — 
 to foreign commerce. Lacquer has since become one of the 
 chief articles of exportation. In the Vienna Exhibition of 
 1873 a great falling off in the quality of the Japanese ex- 
 hibits of lacquer-work was observed. The government of 
 the country thereupon addressed themselves to the revival 
 of the art, and with so much success that it is doubtful if 
 the vast Exhibition of Paris in 1878 contained anything 
 more strikingly beautiful and admirable in every respect 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 * ‘ Genji Monogatari,’ by Mura-saki Shikibu. 
 
 I) 
 
34 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. II. 
 
 than the lacquer exhibits of the Japanese section. It is 
 thought by some authorities that the finest specimens of 
 ancient work were then surpassed both in form and in 
 colour. The manufacture is carried on in several provinces, 
 hut its best workmen and most perfect works are to be 
 found, it is said, in the three great cities — Tokio, Kioto, and 
 Osaka. 
 
 The Japanese lacquer is laid usually upon articles of wood, 
 and not upon articles of papier-mache, as many suppose. It 
 is produced from the sap of the rims vernicifera, which is 
 taken in its natural state into a large wooden tub or vat, 
 and there stirred in the sun with a large spatula until its 
 excess of water is evaporated. In some cases the varnish so 
 produced undergoes careful straining ; in others it is mixed 
 with sulphate of iron, and in others with vermilion, or red 
 oxide of iron, or indigo. Oil is sometimes employed, and 
 powdered stone likewise. Into some inferior varnishes a sort 
 of paste, made of rice, enters in a considerable proportion. 
 There are a dozen methods of employing the various varnishes, 
 differing according to the nature of the object to be produced. 
 In the best lacquer numerous coatings are applied, dried, 
 and polished successively. The first polishings are done 
 with a stone named tsushimada (suitable for hones), the later 
 by means of water and charcoal, made from the Andromeda 
 ovalifoUa, and the last with pulverised stag’s horn. All the 
 polishings are effected by the hand. The laying on of the 
 successive layers of varnish is often a matter of great skill, 
 care, and patience, especially where highly raised surfaces are 
 required by the conditions of the finished design ; and those 
 who examine some of the best specimens of Japanese lacquer 
 little imagine how much of these qualities have been ex- 
 pended upon them. In his recent work on the ‘ Art and Art 
 Industries of Japan,’ Sir Piutherford Alcock says: “Mr. 
 Audsley speaks of one cabinet in the collection of Mr. James 
 L. Bowes in which he thinks he can distinguish nine different 
 species, of lacquers, and twenty-four different modes of artistic 
 treatment, together with sixteen different modes of applying 
 and decorating gold-work, and seven ways of treating various 
 
CHAP. II.] A MONTH IN TTJE EASTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 35 
 
 metals. . . . There is infinite variety in the valne which the 
 Japanese themselves attach to specimens, according to the 
 fineness of the varnish employed, and the time that has 
 elapsed since the work was completed, as the varnish acquires 
 by age a vitreous hardness. Of course the quality of the 
 design and artistic treatment enters also largely into the 
 question of value.” 
 
 In the passage which I have omitted from this quotation 
 occurs this sentence : “ Gold and other metals and colouring 
 matters are sometimes mingled with, and at others applied 
 on, the surface, as the designs are elaborated, hut all, 1 believe, 
 in a liquid state'' * As Sir Kutherford has himself seen, as 
 he states, the production of Japanese lacquer-work, it is 
 hard to call in question the statement of fact which he 
 reports ; but it is certainly an error to say that gold, for 
 example, is applied to Japanese lacquer in a liquid state. In 
 the case of smooth-surface lacquers, where the gold is not to 
 be in relief, the course pursued is as follows. The design to 
 be produced is traced upon a leaf of paper, which is then 
 reversed, and has repeated upon the opposite side of it the 
 outlines and other features of the design, in a mixture of 
 varnish and vermilion softened over a mild fire. This side 
 of the paper is then applied to the lacquer to be decorated, 
 and the paper is rubbed and pressed upon it by means of a 
 small spatula of bamboo. The transfer of the pattern from 
 the paper to the lacquered surface is further assisted by 
 gently beating the paper down with a small silk bag con- 
 taining powdered stone. The paper is then peeled off, and 
 can be used again if desired. The slight relief of the pattern 
 so produced upon the lacquer is rubbed down with carbon 
 polish, and the design, and that alone, is then lightly covered 
 with a thin layer of quickly drying varnish. Gold in powder 
 is then applied to the moist sui-face— by means of a camel’s- 
 hair pencil if the gold-powder be fine, and by means of a 
 small tube if it be comparatively coarse and heavy. The 
 article is then dried for a day in a warm closet, such as is 
 
 D 2 
 
 * The italics are mine. 
 
36 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. II. 
 
 used for drying the ordinary lacquer varnish. The design 
 is next lightly coated with a very thin layer of varnish, 
 applied by means of paper steeped in it, and passed very 
 delicately over the object, which is then re-dried in the 
 closet. The object receives several further extremely light 
 coatings of varnish and subsequent polishings before it 
 is completed. Silver is applied in powder in the same 
 manner. 
 
 When either gold or silver has to he applied to designs in 
 relief, the details of the process vary considerably from the 
 foregoing, hut the application of the metals is effected in 
 substantially the same manner. When leaf-gold, and silver 
 in leaf, have to he applied, they are laid upon the varnished 
 surface prepared to receive them, and dealt with in the usual 
 manner, the varnish acting as a “ size ” for the metal leaf. 
 When mother-of-pearl has to he employed as an incrustation 
 for lacquer, it is laid on during the varnishing processes, 
 earlier if it be thick than if it he thin, and the final polishing 
 is proceeded with until the pearl is brought to the surface. 
 
 The production of articles in cast metal, like that of 
 articles in lacquer, began so early in Japan that all trace 
 of its origin is lost. As far back as the middle of the 
 seventh century of our era the discovery of antique copper 
 hells beneath the ground commenced (while levelling the 
 site of the temple of So-fuku-ji in Omi), and has continued 
 at intervals down to recent times. It was hastily considered 
 that these were relics of ancient Buddhist temples, hut 
 Buddhism had but so recently made its way into Japan, 
 when the hell above-named was discovered, that the true 
 explanation of the existence of these buried castings has yet 
 to be sought. It is certain, however, that these bells, and 
 all other cast articles of very early periods, containing 
 copper, were either the productions of other countries, or 
 were produced from imported metals, for native copper was 
 not discovered in Japan until the eighth century of our era. 
 In view of this fact it is highly probable that the art of 
 casting in bronze, as well as cast articles, was introduced 
 into Japan from Korea or China. But “ if the Japanese 
 
CHAP. II.] A MONTH IN THE EASTERN CAPITAL. 37 
 
 have borrowed from the Chinese in bronze-casting, of which 
 there is no proof,” bluntly says Sir Kutherford Alcock in the 
 work already quoted in this chapter, “ they seem to have 
 nothing to learn from us. They not only give all the 
 delicate moulding of the lotus-leaf by some process unknown, 
 but produce relief ornamentation by cutting the surround- 
 ing metal away, as Mr. Audsley has rightly pointed out. 
 Such relieved work they further enrich with the burin 
 or damascene with gold and silver. . . . They are much in the 
 habit of graving diaper and other patterns on bronzes and 
 filling them up with silver wire, with which they cover 
 large surfaces in salvers or vases with good effect, and 
 very original designs on patterns.” 
 
 The Japanese method of producing bronze articles is to 
 commence by modelling in wax (mixed with resin, etc.) the 
 object to be produced, and then most carefully to cover the 
 wax model with clay or argile. By submitting the whole to 
 the action of heat the wax is melted from the interior of 
 the clay, and a mould is thus left, into which the molten 
 bronze is poured. The process seems simple enough when 
 thus described ; but it is often worked out with such 
 marvellous skill and elaboration as to excite both wonder 
 and admiration when the finished result is beheld. In 
 forming the model, the wax is used chiefly for the more 
 delicate parts, blocks of wood being employed for the more 
 solid parts. Care is taken, of course, to so form and pro- 
 portion these blocks that they can be withdrawn from the 
 mould before the casting takes place. In forming the 
 mould around the model of wood and wax, a succession of 
 liquid or semi-liquid argillaceous coatings are laid on with a 
 brush, the quantity of sand being increased in the successive 
 coatings, and each coating dried to receive the next. When 
 the delicate model has thus been substantially protected, 
 and had its finer interstices filled in, the whole is covered 
 in with dry sand, which is pressed into the cavities and 
 depressions, and formed into a rough exterior suitable for 
 the further operations. The mould is then placed in the 
 furnace, which is of a sufficient heat to melt the wax. 
 
38 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. II. 
 
 which is largely absorbed by the sand, and converted into 
 escaping gas. Care has to be exercised before the pouring 
 in of the bronze, to bring the mould to a proper tempera- 
 ture, in order to secure a free flow of the metal, uncbilled, 
 throughout the finer parts of the mould. 
 
 The European mode of casting ornamental objects, such 
 as birds, flowers, etc., in very high relief as decoration of 
 larger bronze objects, is to employ “piece moulds” pro- 
 duced in the following manner. ' After moulding the 
 pattern in wax or clay, and taking a plaster cast from it, 
 you from this again take a cast in an alloy of tin and lead. 
 This is then sharply chased and divided into a number of 
 pieces, and is then used as the pattern from which the bronze 
 or other article produced is moulded. The process is, of 
 course, an expensive one, and it is not resorted to by the 
 Japanese. They never employ piece-moulds, and yet such 
 is their skill that they produce complex flower-forms as 
 perfect as simpler castings, and more perfect than we ever, 
 as a matter of fact, do produce by aid of our piece-moulds. 
 It follows from their plan that whereas with the piece- 
 mould system a succession of articles can be produced from 
 the same mould, the Japanese require to remodel every 
 article. As Dr. Dresser says : “ If a thousand articles had 
 to be cast, each with a flower in relief on the side, and if 
 each vase was to be of precisely the same pattern, a separate 
 model would yet he prepared for the casting of each, and 
 the same labour would be expended in producing every one 
 that was expended on the production of the first.” 
 
 The idea of producing a thousand ornamental articles 
 precisely alike is entirely foreign to- the Japanese. I have 
 never yet seen a pair of bronzes alike in all respects, and 
 one of the great charms of their productions lies in the 
 certainty that each is a separate and more or less in- 
 dependent work of art. That they produce articles in 
 pairs is known to everybody, but while there are general 
 resemblances between the two articles composing the pair, 
 there are also marked differences between them. I have, 
 for example, a splendid pair of bronze vases (measuring 26 
 
CHAP. II.] A MONTH IN THE EASTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 39 
 
 inches high and 14 inches across) which represent, in my 
 judgment, the most perfect work now executed in Japan."^ 
 They are a pair in form and general features, the con- 
 ventional peacocks which form bracket-handles and the 
 conventional nameless creatures which surround the base, 
 being also alike in both. The general disposition of the 
 ornamental work upon them is likewise the same in both. 
 But beyond this the resemblances of the two vases do not 
 go, for every detail of the flowers, birds, fans, and other 
 decorative ornaments is different ; where the same flower is 
 repeated, it is presented in another form, with a different 
 arrangement of stalk, leaves, and buds. The main ornament 
 on one side of each vase is a figure group, but the figures 
 are different, and differently disposed ; that of the other side 
 is a group of flowers, sprays, and birds, but the grouping of 
 the two bear little resemblance. These vases furnish a 
 striking example of the success with which the Japanese artist 
 contrives to cover a very large portion of the object with 
 decoration, and yet to avoid any such crowding of objects as 
 to suggest excess. They also furnish an equally striking 
 example of the variety of artistic interest given by them to 
 individual objects. They are adorned with objects in relief, 
 others in intaglio, and others in plain insertion. Various 
 precious metals are employed in all of these ways, gold 
 being most commonly used in in relievo. There are forty- 
 five figures in gold in a single group> of birds antT flowers, 
 exclusive of many scattered blossom-specklings in the same 
 metal. But it is unnecessary to dwell upon the beauty of 
 the Japanese bronzes, for it has been freely recognised by 
 all who have studied the subject. 
 
 The method of producing coloured pictures in metals, 
 known as syahfdo, has been justly pronounced by Mr. 
 Audsleyt as perhaps the most characteristic of all the 
 
 * Tliey were presented to me by of war which I had the honour to 
 the imperial government in token of design and superintend for him. 
 the satisfaction which his majesty f One of the authors of ‘ Keramaic 
 the emperor was pleased to e.xpress Art of Japan/ by Messrs. Audsley & 
 
 with the three armour-plated vessels Bowes, of Liverpool. 
 
40 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. II. 
 
 metallurgical works of Japan. “ In this,” he says, 
 “ numerous metals and alloys are associated, the designs 
 being produced in colours through the agency of the 
 various coloured metals ; white being represented by silver, 
 yellow by gold, black by platina, all shades of dull red by 
 copper and its alloys, brown by bronze, and blue by steel. 
 Gold, silver, and polished steel, of course, represent them- 
 selves in design as well as abstract colours. A red garment, 
 embroidered with gold and clasped with silver, would be 
 executed in red-coloured copper, inlaid with gold, and 
 furnished with a silver brooch. The sword in the hand of 
 the warrior would be unpolished steel, and, if bloody, would 
 have red copper laid in it. I have seen many beautiful 
 specimens of syahfdo, and can bear witness to their faultless 
 execution.” Of repousse work Sir Eutherford Alcock says it 
 “ is said to be known and practised by them, but I cannot 
 say I have ever seen any clearly marked specimen.” But it 
 is a fact that this class of metal work is produced in Japan, 
 as I can state from observation there. It is sometimes 
 produced by beating the metal into a steel mould, sunk and 
 engraved for the purpose ; at other times it is produced by 
 simply hammering, with or without a mandril. The artists 
 sometimes make a point of putting no ornament that would 
 obliterate the traces of the hammering. This branch of 
 metal work, however, is much less common in Japan than 
 that of casting. 
 
 Before concluding these remarks on bronzes, I ought to 
 note that by an act of courtesy on the part of the governor 
 of Tokio we were privileged to see, and to study repeatedly 
 and leisurely, what all the Japanese who saw it pronounced 
 the very finest specimen of bronze-casting that had ever 
 been executed in Japan. This splendid specimen of the 
 national art — a man’s figure engaged with a dr-agon — was 
 sent to Admiral Kawamura’s house by the governor soon 
 after our arrival, and was allowed to remain there 
 throughout our visit. I feel quite incapable of putting 
 into words any such description of it as would convey to 
 the reader even an approximate idea, either of its beauty 
 
CHAP. II.] A MONTH IN THE EASTERN CAPITAL. 41 
 
 as a work of art, or of its wonderfulness as a meclianical 
 production. 
 
 One exceedingly pleasant and interesting day of our 
 first month was spent in visiting the paper mills of Ogi, a 
 short drive from the city, under the guidance of their 
 excellencies the minister of finance (in whose department 
 part of them are) and the minister of public works. The 
 art of paper-making is one in which the Japanese have 
 long excelled, some of their paper productions surpassing in 
 strength, and others in parchment-like qualities, those of 
 every other country, even down to the present time. My 
 esteemed friend Sir Sydney Waterlow advised me before I 
 went to Japan to note with particular interest this branch 
 of manufacture, observing that there existed in this country 
 demands for some very special classes of paper which could 
 only be supplied from there. In pursuance of this sugges- 
 tion, I lost no opportunity of looking closely into the subject, 
 although I cannot profess to have discovered any secrets 
 relating to it. By the kindness of the government I was 
 able to bring away with me assorted specimens of the 
 productions of Ogi and of other mills, and so beautiful are 
 some of these that I was not surprised to find the Ogi 
 factory executing large orders from the French and Kussian 
 governments, and from several private firms in Europe, 
 the quality most in request being a beautiful fine-surfaced 
 paper of excessive toughness, which is found very valuable 
 as a material for military maps, and for other purposes in 
 which great durability and power of sustaining much wear 
 and tear without injury are objects of first importance. 
 
 It is impossible to trace the history of the paper-manu- 
 facture in Japan back to its commencement. Specimens 
 produced at the beginning of the eighth century after 
 Christ still exist, and show that the art of paper-making was 
 then highly developed. In the Nihonhi mention is made of 
 the matter in the year 590 a.d., and the words “ Paper is 
 manufactured ” are there recorded ; but this was probably 
 suggested by the introduction of some improvement from 
 Korea rather than by the invention of paper-making, as it is 
 
42 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. II. 
 
 known that books were already in existence. In the year 
 900 A.D. three descriptions of paper were produced in Japan : 
 1. Mashi, made from hempen rag pulp ; 2. Hishi, made from 
 such plants as gampi {Wickstroemia canescens) ; 3. KoJcushi, 
 made from hozo (Broussonetia 2 ^<^py^ifsra), which was like 
 the paper now in common use in the country. 
 
 Excepting paper made from rags, for the production of 
 which large European factories have been erected at Ogi, 
 Japanese paper is produced from a small number of materials, 
 the chief of which have just been named. The first in 
 importance of these is kozo, the plant named last in the 
 preceding paragraph. It is the fourth order of the twenty- 
 first class of the Linnaean system, and is a small shrub 
 reaching to about six feet in height, with branches springing 
 directly from the earth, and grows in nearly all the provinces 
 of Japan. It is a deciduous plant, bearing its new dark- 
 green leaves in springtime. The leaves are “ ovate in form, 
 with a sinuous or serrated margin, and very rough upon the 
 upper surface.” There are two kinds of this shrub, pis- 
 tilliferous and staminiferous.,* They are propagated either 
 by layering (marcottage) or by root-slipping. The mode of 
 treating them for paper-making purposes is as follows : 
 They are cut into 3-feet lengths and steamed in a large 
 boiler containing a little boiling water. The bark is then 
 peeled off, steeped in 'water, and has the dark outer rind or 
 pellicle scraped off with a knife, the scrapings being used 
 for producing inferior paper. The bark thus scraped and 
 cleansed is next carefully washed in running water, and 
 then exposed to the sun until bleached sufficiently white. 
 After this it is boiled in a lye, formed with buckwheat 
 ash, to remove gummy and resinous substances from it. 
 
 *“The staminiferous blossom iuflorescenceofthepistilliferoiis plant 
 about the middle of May ; the iiiflor- is also supported ou a peduncle, and 
 cscence is axillary, and supported on consists of a number of flowers ar- 
 a peduncle of a little more than an ranged together in a head ; from each 
 inch in length ; the corolla is monope- blossom a long pistil projects ; their 
 talous, divided into four lobes at the colour is dark purple.”— Mr. Saka- 
 limb, and is of a dark purple colour. kibara Yosiuo, in Exhibit on Japan- 
 /Ihesc blossoms are tetrandrous. The cse Education of 1876. 
 
CHAP. II.] A MONTH IN THE EASTERN CAPITAL. 43 
 
 The fibres are then readily separated. After cutting out 
 knots of excessive hardness, the workman now beats the 
 fibre into a pulp with wooden mallets upon blocks of stone. 
 This pulp is mixed in tubs or vats with the needful quantity 
 of water, to which is added a milky substance prepared with 
 rice flour and a gummy decoction from the bark of the 
 Nori nohi {Hydrangea iMnicuIata) oi from the root of the 
 tororo.* When the steeping in this mixture has proceeded 
 sufficiently long, the pulp is spread out into sheets by means 
 of fine sieves of bamboo and silk. After draining, the sheets 
 are transferred by means of brushes to drying-boards. 
 
 Similar processes are employed for producing paper from 
 gampi. This plant {Wickstroemia canescens) is the fourth 
 order of the eighth class of Linnaeus, and is a small shrub 
 growing sometimes ten feet in height, with leaves arranged 
 alternately on the stem, the under surface of each leaf being 
 covered with soft hair. Its blossoms, coming about the 
 middle of June, are of a pale yellow colour. The flowers 
 are octandrous, with one pistil. The paper made from this 
 shrub is very fine and supple, and is therefore very suitable 
 for taking transfer copies. It has also the advantage of not 
 becoming worm-eaten. Paper is also made from the mitsu 
 mata plant (Edgworthia papyrifera)^ the first order of the 
 eighth class, a deciduous shrub growing to seven or eight 
 feet in height. At the close of autumn many buds spring 
 on the ends of the branches and arrange themselves in a 
 cluster, “ hanging down like a wild bee’s nest,” and blossom- 
 ing when the spring comes round. The branches are so 
 
 * “ Tororo Hibiscus. The seventh 
 order of the sixteenth class of 
 Linnaeus, a genus of Malvaceae of De 
 Candolle. This is an herbaceous plant, 
 the seeds of which are sown in spring. 
 It grows to the height of one or two 
 feet, and is of a hairy nature. The 
 leaves are palmate, having five or 
 seven lobes, and are arranged alter- 
 nately on the stem. During the hot 
 season fiowers spring from the ends 
 
 and axils of the branches. The 
 corolla has five petals, and is more 
 than two inches in diameter ; it is of 
 a pale-yellow colour, with a dark-pur- 
 ple blotch at the bottom of each petal, 
 and is ephemeral. These flowers are 
 monodelphous and polyandrous. The 
 pod is five-celled, each cell containing 
 many seeds. The root is conical, and 
 abounds with viscous juice.” — Mr. 
 Yosino. 
 
44 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. II. 
 
 pliant that they will not break when knotted.* The corolla 
 of the flower is white outside and yellow inside. The leaves 
 appear after the blossom has fallen. 
 
 The Ogi mills comprise one which belongs to a company, 
 and which is fitted up throughout with English machinery, 
 first for preparing the materials by sorting, cutting, dusting, 
 boiling, washing, bleaching, heating, and colouring ; and 
 secondly for converting the prepared material into finished 
 sheets of paper, by the processes of straining, knotting (the 
 separation of knots, impurities, or of matted fibre which has 
 formed into strings, or is insufficiently ground), making, 
 pressing, drying, glazing, cutting, sorting, polishing, and 
 packing. The machinery was supplied by Messrs. Easton 
 and Anderson, of London and Erith, and is among the best 
 that can he produced, embodying nearly every modern im- 
 provement. This machinery was ordered in August 1873, 
 and was shipped to Japan in June 1874 ; by August 1875 it 
 was at work, having been erected and fitted under a skilled 
 European overseer, hut entirely by the labour of Japanese 
 artisans. The English officer, Mr. Frank Cheeseman, who 
 superintended the work at Ogi, has stated that he was 
 favourably impressed by the intelligence and skill of the 
 Japanese workmen, and by the high character of the native 
 gentlemen who own the mill. The mill is capable of pro- 
 ducing from fifteen to twenty tons of paper per week. 
 
 The uses to which paper is put in Japan are almost as 
 numerous as those to which bamboo is applied in that and 
 other eastern countries, and those who have travelled in such 
 countries know how very diversified are the uses of that 
 invaluable plant. Besides its application to all the common 
 purposes with which we are familiar at home, paper is 
 employed in Japan in place of glass in the sliding walls of 
 the houses, for pocket-handkerchiefs, napkins, in lieu of 
 string, etc., and I have brought to England with me table- 
 cloths made of paper, and even waistcoats and other such 
 
 * “ Its stem and branches are tri- four slender petals. . . . The flower 
 chotomous. . . . The flowers are like is eimeandrous, and has one pistil.’* 
 those of the Daphne odora, having — Mr. Yosino. 
 
CHAP. II.] A MONTH IN THE EASTEBN CAPITAL. 45 
 
 articles of wearing apparel. I am disposed to believe that 
 when the Japanese table-cloths and napkins become well 
 known in this country they will come into very large demand. 
 And the same appears to me to be highly probable with 
 regard to stationery, and more particularly to envelopes, 
 which, although wholly formed of paper, are much superior 
 in strength and toughness to many of the linen-lined 
 envelopes employed by us for business purposes. The 
 leather-like wall-papers of Japan are exceedingly beautiful 
 and very cheap. There has nevertheless sprung up in Japan, 
 since the European invasion, a considerable demand for some 
 descriptions of paper which we use, but which were previously 
 unknown there, and I am informed that there are five fac- 
 tories now in Tokio engaged in manufacturing paper to meet 
 this want. 
 
 The language and literature, the arts of drawing and 
 painting, the colleges and schools, the public services, the 
 museums and other institutions of the country and of the 
 capital, likewise engaged more or less of our attention during 
 our first month in Japan ; but the results of our observations 
 must be reserved for later chapters, as this is already of 
 unusual length. I will only add the following notes on the 
 ‘‘ Fu ” of Tokio, which a high official was so obliging as 
 to furnish in response to a request which I made to him. 
 
 The Tokio Fu-Cho is an office of the local government having for 
 its management the protection of the persons and property in Tokio, 
 the capital of the whole empire, and is thus a branch of the central 
 government. The extent of its jurisdiction is 7 ris (17 miles) from 
 east to west, and the same from north to south. (Its limits are New 
 Tone Eiver on the east, Tanashi postal station on the west, Eojugo 
 Eiver on the south, and Ara Eiver on the north ; the first being the 
 boundary between the provinces of Musashi and Shimofusa, and the 
 three last being in the province of Musashi.) Its boundary line is 30 
 ris long (73'5 miles) ; under its jurisdiction are what are called the 
 seven isles of Idsu, but as they are wholly separated from the land 
 they are now omitted here, and the whole Fu is divided into 15 kus 
 (formerly called Fu Proper) and 6 giins or koris (formerly called Fu 
 Exterior). 
 
 ‘‘ The 15 kus are the following : Kojimachi, Kanada, Nihonbashi, 
 Kiobnshi, Shiba, Azabu, Akasata, Yotsuya, Ushigome, Kongo, 
 
46 . 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. II. 
 
 Koisliikawa, Sbitaya, Asakiisa, Honjo, and Fukagawa. The district 
 included under these names was in the days of the Tokugawa Shogunate 
 called Yedo, and was under the jurisdiction of the north and south 
 yakushos, or offices. After the revolution of 1868 its name was 
 changed into Tokio. 
 
 “ Not only is it a great metroiDolis, but it is a seat of the imperial 
 palace, of the chief posts of the army and navy, of the various ktinns 
 and shos, the source of all laws and institutions, and place of the 
 foreign legations; where the traders and artisans crowd from all 
 quarters of the empire, where the key of the foreign commerce is kept ; 
 nay, it is the centre of all business, political, civil, commercial, 
 industrial, agricultural, literary, and artistic. It is indeed the greatest 
 city of the whole empire, and must not be considered as equalled by 
 other fits and kens. 
 
 “As to the 6 guns or they are the following ; Yebara, East 
 
 Tama, South Tashima, North Tashima, South Adachi, and South 
 Kadzushika. These consist mainly of extensive fields, and are in- 
 habited by farmers, almost all of whom subsist by cultivation, thus 
 separating the gitns from the fifteen kus, or the Fu proper. Every k2i 
 has its kuclio, and every gun its guncho, who are respectively the 
 president of each ku and gun office, and there are kuchos in the mnra 
 into which the guns are divided. 
 
 “ These officers are all under the superintendence of the Fu Cho, 
 and are ordered to manage the affairs of the local executive govern- 
 ment under their respective jurisdictions. The kuchos and gunchos 
 are appointed by the Fuchiji, or the governor, and the kochos are 
 chosen by the peojffe of the mxira. Besides there are the representa- 
 tives from every ku and gun, who are chosen by the people, and are 
 summoned periodically or occasionally to the Fucho to discuss the 
 local interests and benefits. They compose what is called Fu Kai, or 
 the Fu Parliament. There are also Ku Kais and Cho-Son Kais (or the 
 ku and mura assemblies), consisting of the deputies elected by the 
 people to discuss the economy of their own districts. 
 
 “ The administration of affairs under Tokio Fu differs in several 
 respects from that of other local governments. For instance, in other 
 local governments the police affairs are under the direction of the 
 governors, but in Tokio they are superintended by Daikeishi, who is 
 the head of Keishi Honsho, wholly separate from Tokio Fu, and 
 established by Keishi Kioku, a department of Naimu Sho in the central 
 government. Thus the execution of all regulations concerning the 
 persons and property must be subject to the approval of Daikeishi 
 before they are carried into effect. 
 
 “ The situation of the office of Tokio Fu is No. 1 Sichi Saiwai cho 
 Tokio, occupying seven thousand tsuho (5 7 acres). It is divided 
 into many departments, and has under its jurisdiction the fifteen 
 
CHAP. II.] A MONTJI IN THE EASTERN CAPITAL. 47 
 
 kus and six^^ms before mentioned. Its affairs arc very multitiidinons. 
 The following is a brief summary : — 
 
 The investigation of the census. 
 
 “ The education of the people. 
 
 “ The development of industry, agricultural, manufactural, and 
 commercial. 
 
 The inspection of the franchised market-place (Tsukiji). 
 
 “ The gathering of taxes. 
 
 The management of rivers, dykes, aqueducts, and banks. 
 
 ‘‘ The construction and repairing of roads and bridges. 
 
 ‘‘ The supply of water for city use. 
 
 The drainage and the prevention of plague. 
 
 The control of sanitary affairs in general. 
 
 “ The payment of yearly pensions to the decoration- wearers and 
 pension-holders of Kuwazokus, Shizoku, and of Heimin. 
 
 “ The making of awards to virtuous people, obedient children, and 
 faithful wives and servants. 
 
 The superintendence of the Shinto and Buddhist priests. 
 
 “ The helping of the poor widows and widowers, orphans, childless 
 old men, maimed persons, and paupers. 
 
 “ The establishment of the means of giving medicines to, and curing 
 the diseases of, the poor and helpless. 
 
 “Besides, it manages the affairs concerning the appeals of the 
 people. But in all cases of importance it needs the direction from 
 the central government, or every slio, concerning the affair. Every 
 sho is subject to the control and guidance of the central government, 
 and has for its management the department of the navy and army, 
 the home and state affairs, the finance and justice, the public works 
 and education. 
 
 “ A brief account of the landed property and the number of houses 
 and population is as follows. The area of Tokio Fu is estimated at 33 
 square ris (197’5 sq. miles), and the landed property is more than 
 100,000,000 imho (82,101'8 acres), of which 7,000,000 tmho (5747T 
 acres) belong to the government, and 93,000,000 tmho (76,354 7 acres) 
 belong to the people. The number of houses is 25,830, and population 
 is 1,000,000 ; the length of public roads is more than 87 ris (212-8 
 miles) ; the number of rivers is 32, bridges 350, ships 18,000, carriages 
 more than 44,000, temples both Shinto and Buddhist nearly 2000 each, 
 colleges and schools 890, hospitals 30, and banks and other companies 
 more than 100.” 
 
48 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. III. 
 
 CHAPTEE III. 
 
 LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 
 
 Early Japanese an unwritten language — Transmission of records by word 
 of mouth — The Indian Vedas — A colossal system of mnemonics — 
 Ancient language of Japan — The Loo-choo dialect— Japanese a Turanian 
 tongue — Mr. Hyde Clarke’s theory of an ancient Turano-African 
 empire — Intercourse with Korea — Influence of Chinese literature — 
 “ Letters of the god-age ” — The alphabet — Spoken and written language 
 — Difficulties of exploring Japanese literature — Diary of the old court 
 noble — A Japanese classic — Ja]mnese poetry — Poetry of the gods — A 
 verse by the god Susanod — Chant of the goddess Uzume — A “ Ko” — 
 Specimens of native poetry — Remarkable influence of women upon 
 literature — Interchange of prose and poetry between a Chinaman and 
 a Japanese — Captain Brinkley on the Japanese language — Mr. Hyde 
 Clarke on his Turano-African theory. 
 
 A MODERN official Japanese treatise says, “In the earliest 
 times the Japanese language had no written characters,” an 
 opinion which is based upon the results of the researches of 
 the most learned men of the country. There are those who 
 hold a contrary opinion, but the authority which I have 
 quoted affirms that the grounds for their belief are the 
 “mere forgeries of literary impostors.” The point is, of 
 course, one of great importance, for a _ nation which com- 
 mences its career with a written language usually carries 
 with it much more direct demonstrations, or at least indica- 
 tions, of its origin than a nation that grows up, on its 
 historic ground, from a condition so little developed as to 
 be devoid of written characters. 
 
 In the chapter on the God-period I have had occasion to 
 refer to the circumstances under which the sacred book 
 KojiJii assumed its known form by being taken down from 
 
49 
 
 CHAP. III.] LANGUAGE AND LITEBATUBE. 
 
 the dictation of Hiyetano Are, by whom it had been com- 
 mitted to memory ; and although this occurred as late as 
 the year 711 of our period, while we know that Confucian 
 books were introduced into Japan in the third century, still 
 it is an illustration of the fact that there, as in other 
 countries, the transmission of traditions, etc., by word of 
 mouth was a national practice. And but few people know 
 to how great an extent this practice prevailed in some nations, 
 even long after the introduction of written languages. How- 
 ever strange it may seem to say so, it is a fact that the 
 most ancient of all the sacred books in which wm ourselves, 
 as part of the Aryan world, are interested, viz. theKig-Yeda, 
 has been transmitted orally down to our own day, and has 
 had its sacred text first published in a complete form by a 
 scholar who is still alive, and still illuminating his age by 
 his genius. The Eig-Yeda has in some sense been the 
 Bible of millions upon millions of our fellow-creatures for 
 thousands of years, hut it was Mr. Max Muller who brought 
 out “ the first complete edition of that sacred text, together 
 with the most authoritative commentary of Hindu theo- 
 logians.” * There, no doubt, have long existed manuscripts 
 of the Yeda, but Mr. Max Muller himself states that hut 
 few MSS. in India are older than one thousand years after 
 Christ, and there is no evidence that the art of writing was 
 known in India much before the beginning of Buddhism — 
 the last remark being one which may be applied to Japan 
 likewise, hearing in mind that Buddhism only reached Japan 
 a thousand years after the life and death of Buddha — • 
 
 “ Prince Siddartlia styled on earth— 
 
 In earth and heavens and hells incomparable.” 
 
 The sacred traditions were handed down from generation 
 to generation by disciplined and practised memory alone. 
 ‘‘ As far back as we know anything of India, we find that 
 the years which we spend at school and at university were 
 spent by the sons of the three higher classes in learning 
 from the mouth of a teacher their sacred literature. This 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 The Commentary of Sayana Akarya. 
 
 E 
 
50 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. III. 
 
 was a sacred duty, the neglect of which entailed social de- 
 gradation, and the most minute rules were laid down as to 
 the mnemonic system that had to he followed. Before the 
 invention of writing, there was no other way of preserving 
 literature, whether sacred or profane, and in consequence 
 every precaution was taken against accidents.” * Stranger 
 still is the fact that those Brahmans who may he con- 
 sidered the especial guardians of the sacred traditions of 
 India in our own day do not employ either the written or the 
 printed texts in learning and transmitting their holy lore : 
 “ They learn it, as their ancestors learnt it thousands of 
 years ago, from the mouth of a teacher, so that the Yedic 
 succession should never be broken,” and so well do they 
 perform the duty, and so accurately do they transmit the 
 text, that “ there is hardly a various reading, in the proper 
 sense of the word, or even an uncertain accent, in the whole 
 of the Eig-Yeda,” which consists of more than a thousand 
 hymns averaging ten verses, and contains more than one 
 hundred and fifty thousand words.! 
 
 These glimpses into the system of transmitting literature 
 by oral teaching and by the training of the memory are 
 valuable, as serving to account for the extreme elaboration 
 which written characters underwent in Japan after their 
 invention and adoption. Educated as we now are, and 
 living as we do, it is difficult to think with toleration of 
 any language, whether spoken or written, which cannot he 
 fairly mastered in a year or two, and it is with impatience 
 that we read of Japan that “ at the lowest estimate a 
 schoolboy was required to learn one thousand different 
 characters ;” that ‘‘ in the government elementary schools 
 of the present time, about three thousand characters are 
 taught ;” and that “ a man laying any claim to scholarship 
 knows eight or ten thousand characters, while those who 
 
 * Ti.e Ilibbevt T.(ctures, 1878. 
 t In a postscript to his third liib- 
 bert Lecture Mr. INIax IMiiller cites 
 very interesting passages from an 
 ancient work showing in detail liow 
 
 the oral teaching of the Vedas was 
 carried on at least 500 n.c., and adds 
 statements from the pens of two native 
 scholars to show how it is maintained « 
 at the present day. 
 
CHAP. III]. 
 
 LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 
 
 51 
 
 pass for men of great learning are expected to be acquainted 
 with many tens of thousands.” * While looking into this 
 matter, in Tokio, I requested my friend, Captain F. 
 Brinkley, E.A. (perhaps the greatest master of the Japanese 
 language among foreigners), to favour me with his views 
 upon it, and this he was kind enough to do. The memO' 
 randum with which he accordingly furnished me is so 
 valuable and instructive that I append it without alteration 
 to this chapter. It will be seen from it that some twelve or 
 thirteen thousand characters in all must be “ stored away 
 in the memory, beyond the reach of time and the necessity 
 of revision,” before a young Japanese can fairly start in 
 pursuit of science ! But it is easy to see that this colossal 
 system of mnemonics grew naturally enough out of that far 
 earlier system under which, before the invention of writing, 
 memory was the only library, and the toil of long years the 
 only means there were of storing it. Now that Japan has 
 entered upon the modern period, she must, so far, discard 
 her ancient forms of language as to furnish her sons with 
 readier means of acquiring knowledge. 
 
 The ancient language of Japan — by which I mean the 
 language spoken before the opening of her communications 
 with Korea and China— appears to have stood alone. It 
 had some degree of affinity with that of Korea, less (according 
 to the highest authorities) in the roots of words than in 
 grammatical form and structure. There is, however, but 
 one language outside of Japan itself which can be considered 
 as having many words in common with Japanese, and that 
 is the language of the Loo-choo Islands. This appears to so 
 far resemble the Japanese that Mr. Satow, who examined a 
 Loo-chooan “vocabulary, says that it differs very little from it ; 
 and adds that some members of the Loo-chooan embassy to 
 Yedo spoke Japanese with perfect correctness. This cor- 
 rectness must, however, be regarded as an accomplishment, 
 and not as a proof of identity between the two languages, 
 
 * Dr. David Murray, late Superin- 
 teudeiit of Education in Japan, iu 
 
 the Philadelphia Exhibit on Educa 
 lion. 
 
 E 2 
 
52 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [ciTAr. m. 
 
 because interpreters are, as a matter of fact, often employed 
 to facilitate communications between natives of the respective 
 countries. It will be correct to assume, with Mr. Aston, that 
 the Loo-chooan tongue is an offshoot from the Japanese — a 
 mere Japanese dialect, in fact. The relation between the 
 languages of Japan and Korea is doubtless a wholly different 
 one, and one of far greater historic significance, but it is 
 quite beyond my power to throw any light upon it. All I 
 can do in the matter is to express surprise that, as far as 
 I know, this early philologic relationship between Japan and 
 the Korean peninsula has been so little studied. 
 
 It is to the absence of any living or known languages 
 allied to that of Japan and Loo-choo that we must primarily 
 attribute the little progress that has been made by com- 
 parative philologists in their investigations respecting it. 
 It has not yet received even a definite place among the 
 great families of tongues, some writers, at least, placing it, 
 with the Korean, among languages that are of doubtful 
 origin.* Authority on the whole, however, certainly excludes 
 it from the Aryan and Semitic classes, and includes it in 
 the Turanian group of tongues, although it is not to be 
 found in the long genealogical tables of that family of 
 languages which are given by Mr. Max Muller at the end 
 of his ‘ Lectures on the Science of Language.’ Mr. James 
 Fergusson, in his most interesting Ethnological Appendix 
 to his ‘ History of Architecture,’ boldly says : “ In the old 
 world the typical Turanians were the Egyptians ; in the 
 modern the Chinese and Japanese.” Mr. W. G. Aston, who 
 has acquired a masterly acquaintance with Japanese, and has 
 written grammars both of the spoken and of the written 
 language — which differ greatly — says that it possesses all 
 the characteristics of the Turanian family, being agglutinative 
 (i.e. maintaining its “ roots ” in their integrity), without 
 
 * The author of the article “Philo- the Tibetan, ami 3, the Siamese, 
 
 logy” in the 1878 edition of ‘ Cham- Anamese, and Barman, adding, 
 
 bors’ Encyclopaedia,’ for example, who, “ Japanese and the language of Korea 
 under the lieading “Monosyllabic or are doubtful.” 
 
 Isolating,” places 1, the Chinese, 2, 
 
CHAP, III.] 
 
 LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 
 
 58 
 
 formative prefixes, poor in conjunctions, and copious in tlie 
 use of participles. He adds: “The Japanese language is 
 further an example of the rule common to all languages of 
 this family, that every word which serves to define another 
 word invariably precedes it ; thus the adjective precedes 
 the noun, the adverb the verb, the genitive the word which 
 governs it, the objective case the verb, and the word governed 
 by a prej)osition the preposition.” In a paper read at the 
 Asiatic Society of Japan in 1874, Mr. Aston nevertheless — 
 following up Mr. Edkin’s theory, that the Chinese language 
 had remote relations with the Aryan family — himself points 
 out some resemblances between Japanese and that family, 
 and gives numerous examples of apparent identity between 
 Japanese and Aryan roots. He lays no great stress on the 
 matter, and adduces the difficulty which I have already 
 mentioned, viz. the absence of cognate languages, as the 
 great obstacle to the pursuit of inquiries of this kind. 
 
 My learned friend Mr. Hyde Clarke, whose ethnological 
 and philological researches are well known, has long had his 
 attention drawn to the Japanese language, and after many 
 labours has discovered relations between that and the lan- 
 guages of Ashantee and western Africa. His expectations 
 of finding a solution of the main problem were discouraged 
 by the vast ethnological differences between the peoples ; 
 but having, on ethnological grounds, “ to distinguish a white 
 race earlier on the field of history than the Aryans,” he 
 has, in accordance with his readings of history, looked for 
 this race in High Africa — “ regions as healthy as those 
 of High Asia, from which the Aryan migrations are held 
 to have proceeded.” Pursuing this line of inquiry, he has 
 arrived at the opinion that it is in an ancient Turano- 
 African empire that the origin of the Japanese should be 
 sought. This view is so novel and so far-reaching that 
 I have appended to this chapter the memorandum upon 
 it with which Mr. Hyde Clarke has been so obliging as 
 to furnish me. 
 
 It was very early in our era, as will have already been 
 seen, that Japan began to have intercourse with Korea, 
 
54 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. hi. 
 
 and to derive thence aid and instruction which greatly 
 facilitated the progress both of the fine and of the in- 
 dustrial arts ; and few things are more striking even among 
 the many striking things which may now be observed in 
 Japan, than the complete and handsome manner in which 
 her present scholars, historians and officers, recognise this 
 ancient indebtedness to the people of the neighbouring 
 peninsula. The Japanese have plenty of native pride, no 
 doubt, but they appear to be without the false pride which 
 deters some people from acknowledging the advantages 
 which they have derived from others. A recent native 
 writer says that in the earliest times the use of alphabetical 
 characters was unknown in his country, and that it was 
 introduced when intercourse with foreign countries was first 
 opened. Characters are said to have been so introduced 
 by natives of Minama (part of Korea) who visited Japan 
 during the reigns of Kaikua and Sujin (157-30 b.c.). 
 Books were first seen in Japan when the warrior-empress, 
 Jingu Kogo, carried away from Korea as many of them 
 as she’ could lay hands on, with everything else that 
 was at once valuable and portable, after her successful 
 invasion of that country. In the third century (a.d.) the 
 son of the emperor Ojin was, as we have seen, taught to 
 read Chinese works, and from that time forward Chinese 
 language and literature exerted a strong influence upon 
 those of Japan.* Prior to this, there is reason to suppose. 
 
 * It is reasonable to ascribe to this 
 cause the circumstance that in Japan 
 as in China “ writing ” has always 
 signified so very much more than 
 with ourselves. Our alphabet is little 
 or nothing more than a mechanical 
 system of communication ; but in 
 China there is a divine authority and 
 beauty about their written characters. 
 Some of them came from the scales of 
 the turtle or dragon-horse that Toh-he 
 found in the river bed. These he 
 expanded to the great lines of the 
 universe. The starry curves of the 
 
 heavens, the undulations of moun- 
 tains, the winding of rivers — in these 
 were the elements of writing, and 
 these elements shared the divinity of 
 creation. Obviously a system of 
 writing thus begun, or thus developed, 
 would greatly favour that fanciful 
 interweaving of meanings which it is 
 impossible, as one so often finds, to 
 render in a language like ours, or 
 indeed in any foreign language what- 
 ever. I may have occasion to make 
 mention again of the difficulty in the 
 chapter on Proverbs and Phrases. 
 
1. YosiTUNfc riding on the Tengu to take his Fencing Lessons at Kurama Yama. 
 
 2, Taibo : a fabulous bird : the Japanese “ Eoc.” 
 
 From Hokusai. Reproduced for this Work by a Japanese Engraver. 
 
 7b face page 54, Val. JI. 
 
!' 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 ( 
 
 f 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 i • 
 
 i ■ 
 
 1 . 
 
 I • 
 
 ! 
 
 i 
 
 i . 
 
 ? ; 
 
 I! 
 
 j 
 
 ! 
 
 J : 
 
 ! 
 
 I; 
 
 i i. 
 
 !■ 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
CHAP. III.] LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 
 
 55 
 
 tbe writing of letters was never practised, but epistolary 
 correspondence soon became practicable after tbe intro- 
 duction of Confucian books, and with them the commence- 
 ment of the study of the literary art. Nothing like Chinese 
 composition was, however, practicable in Japan until the 
 sixth century, when the introduction of Buddhism and 
 Buddhist writings gave a strong and lasting impulse to 
 the spread of Chinese literature, and now the number 
 of Chinese words in the Japanese language greatly exceeds 
 the number of native words. They are for the most part 
 easily distinguishable, it is said, although in some cases 
 Japanese words have undergone changes which make it 
 difficult to recognise them. It must not be inferred from 
 this that a knowledge of the Chinese language is absolutely 
 necessary for students of Japanese. “ What is really 
 essential,” says Mr. Aston, is an acquaintance with the 
 meaning and Japanese pronunciation of the Chinese 
 character. A familiarity with Chinese constructions and 
 forms of expression is not without value to the student of 
 the later form of Japanese, but it is quite possible to have 
 a knowledge of the language sufficient for all practical 
 purposes without being able to construe a single sentence 
 of a Chinese book.” He adds that a knowledge of one 
 of the spoken dialects of China is of no use whatever 
 to the student of Japanese. 
 
 Whence came the earliest written characters ever em- 
 ployed in Japan is a question that has excited much con- 
 troversy, Came they from the gods? Were they the 
 invention of the sages ? Or were they introduced from 
 Korea ? Each of these questions is answered in the affirma- 
 tive by some scholars, and denied by others. They are 
 known as Shinji, “ letters of the god age,” and the priests 
 of the old Shinto faith, with such modern Japanese scholars 
 as Hirata Atsutane, deem them to be the oldest written 
 characters known in Japan, and of purely Japanese origin, 
 dating, in fact, from the divine age. Others, who modestly 
 refrain from asserting the immediate descent of the 
 Japanese from the gods, maintain that these characters 
 
56 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. hi. 
 
 were the invention of those later and lesser gods, the sages, 
 and contend, as stoutly as the others, for their purely 
 Japanese character. The third theory — that they were 
 derived from the Korean Kito system of writing, and were 
 in substance brought over from Korea by the Japanese 
 army of invasion on its return home — is maintained by 
 Buddhist writers, and has many other supporters. Mr. 
 Aston thinks it the correct one, and says that the Shinji 
 have, at any rate, left no traces in the existing alphabets, 
 “ nor have they been the vehicle for transmitting to our 
 day any literary remains of the age to which they belong.” * 
 The differences between the spoken and written dialects 
 of Japan are very remarkable. The grammars of the two 
 are so different that Mr. Aston has published a separate 
 work upon each, so that merchants and others who wish 
 to acquire a knowledge of the colloquial tongue may pro- 
 ceed directly to their object. So broad is the distinction 
 between the two that foreign residents in the country 
 sometimes become familiarly acquainted with the colloquial 
 language, and yet remain incapable of reading a newspaper 
 article, a book, or a letter addressed to them ; while, on the 
 
 * It is no part of my plan to 
 attempt to give any detailed descrip- 
 tion of the language of Japan, which 
 must be sought in the grammars of 
 Mr. Aston and in the writings of 
 other scholars; but it may he inte- 
 resting to some readers to say that 
 in the Japanese language there are 
 forty-seven syllables, by the combina- 
 tion of which, and of a supplementary 
 character corresponding to n placed 
 
 at the end of the syllable, all the 
 words of the language may be repre- 
 sented. The equivalents of these 
 syllables, with a few supplementary 
 ones, are given in the table below, ex- 
 pressed in Eonmn characters, and in 
 reading them the English sounds 
 should be given to the consonants and 
 the Italian sounds to the vowels. The 
 table should be read down the verti- 
 cal columns, and from right to left : — 
 
 wa 
 
 ra 
 
 ya 
 
 ma 
 
 ha 
 
 na 
 
 ta 
 
 sa 
 
 ka 
 
 a 
 
 wi 
 
 ri 
 
 yi 
 
 mi 
 
 hi 
 
 ni 
 
 tsi 
 
 shi 
 
 ki 
 
 i 
 
 wu 
 
 ru 
 
 yu 
 
 mu 
 
 tu 
 
 nu 
 
 tsu 
 
 su 
 
 ku 
 
 u 
 
 we 
 
 re 
 
 ye 
 
 me 
 
 he 
 
 ne 
 
 te 
 
 se 
 
 ke 
 
 e 
 
 wo 
 
 ro 
 
 ye 
 
 mo 
 
 ho 
 
 no 
 
 to 
 
 so 
 
 ko 
 
 0 
 
CHAP. III.] LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 
 
 57 
 
 other hand, a foreigner may acquire in his own country a 
 good knowledge of the written language, and have caught 
 the accent of Japanese, and yet be unable on visiting the 
 country to carry on a conversation with a native. There 
 is, of course, a notable distinction between the spoken and 
 written styles in most countries — there certainly is in our 
 own ; but the difference is far greater in the case of Japan 
 than in that of ours or any other well-known language of 
 Europe. 
 
 Although the literature of Japan is a mine which has 
 scarcely yet been opened, and it is hut natural to expect that 
 it may hereafter he worked with great interest and advan- 
 tage, those who have hitherto sunk their shafts and opened 
 up workings in it seem to have found it less rich than they 
 had hoped. This arises from two causes : first, most of the 
 literature that has come down to us from the period when 
 the language was at its best and purest was composed for 
 the very limited objects which the Mikado and the court had 
 in view in those days; and, secondly, all Japanese writers 
 appear to have hung one narrative or story so much upon 
 another that it is often difficult to select one complete in 
 itself. Other causes are the abundance of verbal artifices, 
 which cannot be translated, and the circumstance that the 
 habits of thought and life of the Japanese people have been 
 so wholly unlike our own that we could not permit ourselves 
 to publish much of that which has been most characteristic 
 and telling among themselves. 
 
 In the chapter on the Shinto Eeligion I have referred to, 
 and quoted from, the diary of an old court noble who lived 
 a thousand years ago, and I would again advert to it here 
 as a highly interesting example of old Japanese literature, 
 giving many bright glimpses into the life of the country 
 at that period. Mr. Aston, who describes and translates it, 
 calls it an Ancient Japanese Classic. It was entitled by its 
 author Tosa Nikki, or “ Tosa Diary.” This old fellow, named 
 Tsurayuki, who proudly traced his direct descent from one of 
 the Mikados, had been for four years prefect at Tosa, and 
 wrote the diary when on- his way back to the imperial city. 
 
58 
 
 JAPAN. • 
 
 [chap. III. 
 
 He was a poet of eminence, and author of another work, 
 which has been pronounced the most perfect extant composi- 
 tion of the native style. In mingled jollity and grief — ^jollity 
 from hob-nobbing, including verse-making, with his suc- 
 cessor, and grief for that he left behind him a girl-daughter 
 who had died there — he set sail from Tosa. The new prefect’s 
 brother making his appearance on a neighbouring cape, 
 Tsurayuki landed on the beach, drank, and composed verses 
 with the brother, until the captain summoned him back on 
 board. The sahe was all gone, and the verses had been bad — 
 for, says he, it required the united efforts of two of the party 
 to make one bad verse, and he compares the verse-makers to 
 two fishermen labouring along with a heavy net upon their 
 shoulders — and he was nothing loth to rejoin his vessel. 
 Detained afterwards at Ominato for ten days, many presents 
 were sent to our Lucullus, one of them being a pheasant, 
 which, according to an old Japanese custom, was attached to 
 a blossoming plum- branch. With some of the gifts came 
 verses ; here is a specimen : — 
 
 “ Louder than the clamour of the white surges on your 
 onward path will be the cry of me, weeping that I am left 
 behind.” 
 
 “If that were really so, he must have a very loud voice,” 
 says our old friend, who must be excused the scoff on the 
 ground of the impatience which delay would naturally beget. 
 At length they were under weigh again ; and passing a grove 
 of ancient firs growing near the sea, with storks flying about 
 among their tops, he wrote the verse : — 
 
 “ Casting my glance over the sea ; on each fir-tree top a 
 stork has his dwelling ; they have been comrades for a 
 thousand years ” — 
 
 a verse not a whit truer or more poetical, that I can see, 
 than that at which he scoffed before. But who that re- 
 members the early passages of literary arms between .a 
 Bulwer and a Tennyson, the ‘ New Timon ’ and ‘ Alcibi- 
 ades,’ who 
 
 “ Hated each other for a soug, 
 
 And did their little best to bite'’ 
 
CHAP. III.] LANGUAGE AND LITEIIATUBE. 
 
 59 
 
 shall wonder at these old saZ;e-steeped versifiers on the sea- 
 beach of Japan a thousand years ago saying a smart thing 
 or two at each other’s expense ! 
 
 In those days, and in very small vessels, impelled mainly 
 by oars, as was this boat of Tsurayuki, the mariners cast their 
 small anchors for the night ; and here (always quoting Mr. 
 Aston’s graceful translation) is our poet’s description of the 
 nightfall : “ Whilst we rowed along gazing on this scene, the 
 mountains and the sea became all dark, the night deepened, 
 and east and west could not he seen, so we entrusted all our 
 thought of the weather to the mind of the master of our 
 ship. Even the men, who were not accustomed to the sea, 
 became very sad, and still more the women, who rested their 
 heads on the bottom of the ship and did nothing but weep. 
 The sailors, however, seemed to think nothing of it, and sang 
 the following boat-song.” He gives a few lines of it, and 
 then proceeds : “ There was a great deal more of this kind 
 
 of stuft*, but I do not write it down. Listening to the 
 laughter at these verses, our hearts became somewhat 
 calmed, in spite of the raging of the sea. It was quite dark 
 when we at length reached our anchorage for the night.” 
 Three days more brought them to Murotsu (close to the 
 easternmost of the southern peninsula of Shikoku), and 
 there they landed and took a bath. The diarist tells us, in 
 this day’s entry, that no one wore scarlet or other rich 
 colours in the vessel lest they should incur the anger of the 
 gods of the sea. After five days they sailed again, very 
 early in the morning, with the moon shining over a wave- 
 less ocean, which reflected the sky so perfectly that the two 
 could not be distinguished. Then he wrote this stanza : — 
 
 “ What is this that strikes against my oar as the boat 
 is rowed along over the moon of the sea-depths ? Is it 
 the bush of the man in the moon ? ” 
 
 At another time, when sailing in company with a large 
 number of other junks, he wrote, to my mind more prettily — 
 
 “It is spring, hut it seems as if over the sea the leaves 
 of autumn are being scattered.” 
 
60 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. III. 
 
 I pass over mucli of the narrative, pausing to observe that 
 at one place, where there were many beautiful shells upon 
 the beach, Tsurayuki composed these lines in allusion to a 
 shell which the Japanese call the %vasure-gai, or “ shell of 
 forgetfulness ” : — 
 
 would descend from my ship to gather the shell of 
 forgetfulness of one for whom I am filled with sorrowful 
 longing. Do ye, 0 ye advancing surges, drive it forward 
 to the strand.” 
 
 He afterwards says, pathetically enough, that the true 
 wish of his heart was not to forget her whom he had lost, but 
 only to give such respite to his sorrow that it might after- 
 wards gain greater strength. Then follows the passage 
 about the propitiation of the sea-god, first with nusa and 
 then with his mirror, which I quoted in a former chapter. 
 After many storms and delays they entered the Osaka river. 
 All the passengers, men, women, and children, were over- 
 joyed at reaching this point of their voyage, and clasped 
 their foreheads with their hands in ecstasies of delight. 
 Landing at Yaniazaki, our old aristocratic friend sent for his 
 bullock-cart from Kioto, as befitted a man of his rank, and on 
 its arrival started for the capital. He noticed the shops as 
 he went along, looking exactly as when he went away, and 
 wondered whether he would find as little change in the 
 hearts of his friends. By his own arrangement, he arrived 
 at his home by night : — 
 
 “The moon was shining brightly when I reached my 
 house and entered the gate, so that its condition was plainly 
 to be seen. It was decayed and ruined beyond all description 
 — worse even than I had been told. The heart of the man in 
 whose charge I had left it was in an equally dilapidated 
 condition. The fence between the two houses had been 
 broken down, so that both seemed but one, and he appeared 
 to have fulfilled his charge by looking in through the gaps. 
 And yet I had supplied him by every opportunity with the 
 means of keeping it in repair. To-night, however, I would 
 not allow him to be told this in an angry tone, but in spite of 
 
ciiAr. til] language AND LITEHATUBE. 
 
 G1 
 
 my vexation offered him an acknowledgment for his trouble. 
 There was in one place something like a pond where water 
 had collected in a hollow, by the side of which grew a fir- 
 tree. It had lost half its branches, and looked as if a thousand 
 years had passed during the five or six years of my absence. 
 Younger trees had grown up round it, and the whole place 
 was in a most neglected condition, so that every one said 
 that it was pitiful to see. Among other sad thoughts that 
 rose spontaneously to my mind was the memory— ah, how 
 sorrowful ! — of one who was born in this house, but who did 
 not return here along with me. My fellow-passengers were 
 chatting merrily with their children in their arms, hut I 
 meanwhile, still unable to contain my grief, privately re- 
 peated these lines to one who knew my heart. ... I cannot 
 write down all my many regrets and memories ; he it for 
 good or evil, here I will fling away my pen.” 
 
 So endeth the quaint and pleasant narrative of this charm- 
 ing old litterateur. His story is quoted by Mr. Aston as a 
 notable example of the truth of Buffon’s dictum that “ style 
 is everything.” Containing no striking adventures, wise 
 maxims, or novel information, possessing only the merit of 
 describing in simple yet elegant language the ordinary life 
 of a traveller in Japan in his day, its literary qualities have 
 gained it a high rank among the classics of his country, and 
 insured its being handed down to our own day as a most 
 esteemed model for composition in the native Japanese style. 
 Indeed, it established, conjointly with the author’s other 
 writings, a new style of composition, known as Nikki and 
 Kiko (literally, diaries and travels). 
 
 We have seen that in Tsurayuki’s day people spent much 
 of their spare time in composing poetical stanzas, and this 
 amusement is practised down to our own day. I have 
 brought with me from Japan numerous examples of short 
 compositions of this kind, executed for us by those with 
 whom we had the pleasure to associate in that country. The 
 governor of the ancient (now western) capital of Kioto, for 
 example, Mr. Makimura Masinao, wrote us two upon large 
 sheets of Kioto silk. One was written in connection with 
 
G2 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. III. 
 
 a most delightful day spent in the midst of romantic 
 scenery, and, being translated, runs thus : — 
 
 “ Greeting a good guest with spring wine, mountains 
 and rivers all seem to participate in our delight ; ” 
 
 which, in English verse, might perhaps thus be rendered : — 
 
 Greeting a welcome guest in spring with wine, 
 Mountains and rivers share the joy divine.” 
 
 The other was designed to celebrate the mutual delight and 
 good-fellowship which men might feel though belonging to 
 separate and distant nations, and was thus translated : — 
 
 “ Let friends not stand upon ceremony among each 
 other, hut have joy, with the nations of the world, sitting 
 as it were together, and breathing the winds of spring.” 
 
 Poetry, or what is known in Japan as such, has been 
 composed there from the earliest days. It was originally 
 supposed to he delivered with clear intoned cadence, but 
 since the middle ages of Japan there have been two kinds, 
 one to he read and the other to he sung. The former kind 
 underwent great development. Verses were usually either 
 of five or of seven syllables in length, but others, of six and 
 of eight syllables, were sometimes composed. The length 
 of the stanza was not fixed, hut it most frequently con- 
 sisted in later times of thirty-one syllables. Poetry first 
 became a distinct art in Japan about the year 1000 a.d. 
 The various styles of poetry have been classed according to 
 six periods, hut their respective characteristics could not 
 he explained without a greater assignment of space to the 
 subject than I can afford. Sufiice it to say that Jaj>anese 
 poetry does not depend for its merits upon resemblances in 
 sound, nor upon quantity, nor upon rhyme. Its characteristic 
 is metre, and, as already intimated, its lines are alternately 
 of five and seven syllables in length ; all departures from 
 this are irregular, and in singing such departures are 
 eliminated. 
 
 Specimens of Japanese poetry have been handed down 
 from very early periods indeed. In the ‘ Philadelphia 
 
CHAP. III.] LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 
 
 03 
 
 Exhibit ’ (so frequently adverted to by me) is given a brief 
 poem by a personage of the greatest dignity and antiquity 
 — no other than the god Susanoo, the unruly brother of the 
 sun-goddess. He had built a palace in Idzumo for himself 
 and wife to retire into after their marriage, and upon the 
 clouds gathering thickly about it he composed the following 
 lines : it will be observed that they consist of five, seven, 
 five, seven, and seven syllables respectively : — ^ 
 
 “ Ya kumo ta tsu : 
 
 Idzumo ya-ye-gaki; 
 
 Tsuma-gomi ni 
 Ya-ye-gaki tsukum: 
 
 SoDo ya-ye-gaki wo ! ” 
 
 Of these lines Mr. Pfoundes gives the following translation: — 
 
 ‘‘ Countless piling clouds 
 Idzumo’s rocky heights envelop; 
 
 My spouse there have I placed, 
 
 A fence around her raised, 
 
 My strong arm protects her.” 
 
 This is doubtless a very free translation, especially in the 
 last line. Mr. Aston gives the following, which is probably 
 a much more literal, although a less valorous, one : — 
 
 “ Many clouds arise : 
 
 The clouds which come forth are a manifold fence : 
 
 For the husband and wife to retire within. 
 
 They have formed a manifold fence: 
 
 0 that manifold fence ! ” 
 
 Whatever degree of faithfulness there may be in either 
 translation, it is satisfactory to find that Susanoo, however 
 badly he may have behaved to his sister, was a domestic 
 personage after all, or he would not have broken out into 
 poetry on finding himself so thoroughly shut in by cloud- 
 fencings with his wife Kushinada-himd. 
 
 Another very brief and much more curious poem has 
 come down from the divine age. This is the ‘‘ six-syllable 
 song or charm of numbers ” which I have adverted to in 
 the chapter on the God-period as having been sung by the 
 
G4 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. III. 
 
 goddess Uzume during the enticement of the sun-goddess 
 from her cave. Printed in Koman letters it runs thus : — 
 
 ‘‘ Hito futa miyo 
 Itsu muyu nana 
 Ya koko-no tari 
 Momo chi yorodzu.” 
 
 With a single exception, these words correspond exactly 
 with the Japanese words for the numbers one to ten, one 
 hundred, one thousand, and ten thousand, the exception 
 being tari for ten, instead of toro, the word actually used.* 
 But Mr. Satow points out that the words may he interpreted 
 in quite a different manner, which is probably the correct 
 one, the words employed being subsequently taken to stand 
 for numbers. The first line, interpreted according to its 
 sense, is, “ Men ! look at the lid ! ” which is equivalent for 
 “Gods! look at the cavern door!” the second is equivalent 
 to “ Majesty appears ! hurrah ! ” the third is readable as 
 “ Our hearts are quite satisfied,” and the fourth as “ Behold 
 my bosom and my limbs ! ”f In the chapter before referred 
 to it is said, the reader will remember, that Uzume got so 
 excited with her singing and dancing as to let her robe fall, 
 and it is this incident that is here alluded to. The whole 
 verse, therefore, runs thus : — 
 
 Gods ! look at the cavern door ! 
 
 Majesty appears ! hurrah ! 
 
 Our hearts are fully satisfied. 
 
 Behold my bosom and limbs ! ” 
 
 There is extant a collection of Japanese poems, called 
 Manyoshiu, dating from before the tenth century a.d., in 
 which, although Chinese characters are employed, the Ja- 
 panese sounds are rendered, the foreign characters being 
 
 * Thus;— 
 
 Hito-tsu . 
 
 . one 
 
 Nana tsu . 
 
 . seven 
 
 Futa . 
 
 . . two 
 
 Ya „ . 
 
 . eight 
 
 Mi . 
 
 . . three 
 
 Kokono ,, 
 
 . nine 
 
 Yo „ . 
 
 . four 
 
 Momo-chi . 
 
 . one hundred 
 
 Itsu „ . 
 
 five 
 
 Chi-dji . 
 
 one thousand 
 
 Mu „ . 
 
 . six 
 
 Yorodzii 
 
 ten ,, 
 
 t Literally “ thighs.” 
 
CHAP. III.] 
 
 LANGUAGE AND LITER ATURE. 
 
 65 
 
 used phonetically only. Mr Aston gives the following- 
 translation of one of these : — 
 
 “ By the palace of Futagi, 
 
 Where our great king 
 And divine lord 
 Holds high rule, 
 
 Gentle is the rise of the hills, 
 
 Bearing hundreds of trees, 
 
 Pleasant is the murmur of the rapids, 
 
 As downward they rush. 
 
 So long as in the springtime, 
 
 (When the nightingale comes and sings) 
 
 On the rocks 
 
 Brocade-like flowers blossom. 
 
 Brightening the mountain foot; 
 
 So long as in the autumn 
 (When the stag calls to his mate) 
 
 The red leaves fall hither and thither. 
 
 Wounded by the showers — 
 
 The heaven be-clouding. 
 
 For many thousand years 
 May his life be prolonged 
 To rule over all under heaven 
 In the great palace 
 Destined to remain unchanged 
 For hundreds of ages.” 
 
 Those who are accustomed to reflect upon the subtle 
 delicacies of language in which much of the charm of true 
 poetry consists will know how impossible it is to convey in 
 a tongue so alien as is ours to the Japanese the qualities that 
 delight the native reader. The thought which a verse or a 
 poem expresses may doubtless be translated, but the subtle 
 sentiment and formless music of the original clings to it, 
 and is not susceptible of separation. This should not be 
 forgotten in reading such translations as I have quoted, or 
 may yet quote. And yet one cannot peruse lines like the 
 following translation by Mr. Aston of a dramatic passage 
 from a Japanese No (short dramatic sketch) without detect- 
 ing something of the charm of the original. The principal 
 personage of the piece having announced that he has been 
 
 VOL. II. F 
 
66 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [cnAP. III. 
 
 commissioned by the emperor of China to spy out the 
 intelligence of the inhabitants of Japan, the chorus strikes 
 in and thus describes the voyage : — 
 
 “ Oaring forth his ship, 
 
 He would visit the land 
 Of the quarter 
 Of the rising sun, 
 
 Of the rising sun. 
 
 As she sails. 
 
 As she sails 
 Far over the wave-path 
 Of the eastern sea. 
 
 Behind her sets the sun. 
 
 O’er her is the void of heaven. 
 
 Where tlie cloud-banners 
 
 Are still bright with his radiance — 
 
 And now the moon comes forth ; 
 
 On the same quarter 
 Mountains are first descried; 
 
 Ere long 
 
 Even at the land of Japan 
 He hath arrived. 
 
 He hath arrived.” 
 
 It must be acknowledged that this description is vigor- 
 ously and nobly wrought. 
 
 Having requested Captain Brinkley to be so kind as to 
 favour me with translations of a brief specimen or two of 
 Japanese poetry, with the view of myself transforming 
 them into English verse, he was so obliging as to give 
 me the following seven short pieces. The gallant translator 
 has performed his part so well, and invested the citations 
 with so much grace and beauty, that it would be sinfully 
 presumptuous in me to touch them. I therefore — although 
 without his permission, I regret to say — give them as they 
 came from his pen : — 
 
 “ Destined at last to become part of the mighty ocean. 
 
 The valley runlet creeps yet a moment under the drooping 
 leafiets.” 
 
 “ To him that seeks the path of virtue Avith sincerity. 
 
 The guardianship of the gods comes unsolicited.” 
 
ciiAr. III.] 
 
 LANGUAGE AND LITEBATURE. 
 
 67 
 
 “ Eain and rime, snow and hail, distinguish them ever so wisely. 
 Fallen, do they not all become the self-same river of the 
 valley ? ” 
 
 “ The storm that shreds the blossom tells the story of our lives ; 
 Inexorable towards all steals the season of decay.” 
 
 “ Fair as the blossom’s softly falling snowflakes 
 Is the quiet decay of a ripe old age.” 
 
 “ A peerless sage was wine to the sages of old. 
 
 Clearing from life the clouds of sorrow and dejection. 
 
 A draught loosed the tongue of converse and merriment, 
 
 A second wakened thoughts of the days that were no more. 
 
 And a third stirred the chords of poesy and song. 
 
 But now with the lust of liquor come dissension. 
 
 Ignorance, crime, and neglect of all time’s duties. 
 
 Making of life a dissolute sterility. 
 
 Blame we then the wine or the heart of the drinker ? ” 
 
 “Types of our children are the tiny grasses. 
 
 Tender and fragile in the ample moorland : 
 
 We know not to what fragrance their infant sprouts may 
 blossom. 
 
 Nor wist to what sweetness their unborn fruits may ripen. 
 
 But hoping ever wait till autumn tells their story. 
 
 Oh! cherished children, may ye never perish, 
 
 Flowerless, fruitless, in the early s]3ringtime, 
 
 Nor like this petal trampled by the wayside. 
 
 Fall in the fuller promise of your prime.” 
 
 These extracts are ample to show that the native litera- 
 ture of Japan contains much that is poetic in the true 
 sense of the word. Taking together the passages which I 
 have quoted, we have proof that it is notable for the com- 
 bination of manly power with feminine delicacy and beauty. 
 Nor is this surprising, for while literature is in the main 
 the profession of men in Japan, women have in various ages 
 achieved great distinction in it. Indeed, during the long 
 and repeated periods of civil war, when the men of Japan 
 were devoting themselves to mutual slaughter under am- 
 bitious leaders — as men have been too ready to do in other 
 ages and in other countries as well as in Japan — the women 
 of the land, to their enduring glory be it said, not only 
 sustained the literary art, but exalted it to a greater 
 
 r 2 
 
68 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. III. 
 
 eminence than that to which men had ever raised it. It is 
 considered by some, it will he remembered, that Hiyetano 
 Are, who committed the sacred Kojihi to memory, and 
 handed it down to all time, was a woman, and it was cer- 
 tainly during the reign and under the active patronage of a 
 woman that the work was accomplished. Speaking of the 
 time of Tsurayuki (our old friend the ex-governor of Tosa 
 a thousand years ago). Mr. Aston hears this most remark- 
 able testimony : “ The learned were at this time devoted to 
 the study of Chinese, and rarely composed in any other 
 language, whilst the cultivation of the Japanese language 
 was in a great measure abandoned to women. It is honour- 
 able to the women of Japan that they nobly discharged the 
 task which devolved upon them of maintaining the credit of 
 their native literature. I believe no parallel is to be found 
 in the history of European letters to the remarkable fact 
 that a very large proportion of the best writings of the best 
 age of Japanese literature was the work of women. The 
 Geiiji Monogatari, the acknowledged standard of the language 
 of the period to which it belongs, and the parent of the 
 Japanese novel, was written by a woman, as were also the 
 Ise Monogatari, the Mahnra Zoshi, and much of the poetry 
 of the time.” It is to these facts, probably, that we must 
 look for the origin of that delicacy of sentiment and ex- 
 pression, in a literary sense, which softens and adorns 
 nearly all that flows to us from classic Japanese literature 
 through the channels of translation. Nor are we without 
 testimony to its beauty from those who are familiar with it 
 in the original. “ It would be hard,” said Mr. Chamberlain 
 in a discussion at the Asiatic Society, “ in the mellifluous 
 classical language of Japan, to find one word which is less 
 euphonious than another : in that tongue, so different from 
 the semi-Chinese jargon of the present day, every syllable 
 is a delight to listen to.” 
 
 The gentleman just quoted, in an able paper read before 
 the society referred to, explained some curious elements in 
 Japanese literature which have been called “ pillow-words.” 
 These he considers to be, after the cadence of the alternat- 
 
CHAP. III.] 
 
 LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 
 
 69 
 
 ing five- and seven-syllable lines, the chief characteristic of 
 the classical poetry of Japan. The pillow-words appear to he 
 words which once had a meaning, but which, having fallen 
 out of significance, are used for the succeeding significative 
 word to “ rest its head ” upon, so to speak. The “ pillow ” 
 for the verb to yearn, for example, is a word signifying ‘‘ in 
 the manner of a weeping infant.’’ The subject is too ab- 
 struse, however, to pursue here, although two native authors 
 record as many as six hundred and sixty-seven pillow- words, 
 and explain their use. Of examples of punning, or playing 
 upon words, which is also a common literary device in 
 Japan, Mr. Chamberlain gives, among others, this — 
 
 “Matsu ga ne no, 
 
 Matsu koto totiomi,” etc., 
 
 which is nearly literally rendered into English, pun and 
 all, by 
 
 “ Like to the I must stand and pine.''’ 
 
 Desiring to furnish my readers with a specimen of modern 
 Japanese modes of thought and expression, but dating from 
 before the invasion of our civilisation, I have searched for 
 a suitable example, and liave found it in the records of Com- 
 modore Perry’s expedition. A Chinaman, having embarked 
 from China in the American squadron when about to leave 
 for Japan, kept and afterwards published a journal of his 
 visit. While lying off Yokohama, a learned Japanese, among 
 others, visited the squadron, and inquired respecting the 
 troubles then existing in China. The Chinaman showed 
 him an account of the Chinese insurrection which he had 
 drawn up, and a book on the principles of good government. 
 These the Japanese gentleman borrowed, and afterwards re- 
 turned, together with a letter expressing his own opinion. 
 From that letter I take the following translated extracts, 
 observing that they were written at a time when the 
 country was, and had been for two centuries and a half 
 at least, completely closed to foreigners (excepting the 
 distant port of Nagasaki). The Japanese writes : — 
 
 “ As I have shut up your volume my feelings have found vent in 
 sighs. . . . The essential evil of such a state as China may be described 
 
70 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. III. 
 
 in a single phrase— it is the desire of gain. Now, the desire of gain is 
 common to all men, and is the pregnant womb of all evil. Confucius 
 seldom spoke of gain, wishing to check the lust of it* in its source. 
 This, also, was the reaseu why my ancestors cut oif all intercourse of 
 foreign nations with Japan, because the desire of gain led astray the 
 ignorant people, and wonderful arts in the investigation of principles 
 deceived the perverse, so that they got striving together, seeking gain 
 and hurrying aftef wdiat was wonderful, till filial duty, modesty, and 
 the sense of shame w^ere all forgotten. To a man who has reached 
 this stage of evil, neither his father nor his sovereign is anytliing.” 
 
 He goes on : — 
 
 “ The ^vays of Heaven are great. It nourishes all things in the 
 universe. Even among the dark countries who dw^ell by the icy sea, 
 there is not an individual wdio is not a child of Heaven and Earth — 
 not one who is not made to love his fellows, and be friendly with them. 
 On this account the sages embraced all men with a common benevolence, 
 without distinction of one from another. The principles for mutual 
 intercourse, all over the globe, are the same — propriety, comjilaisance, 
 good faith, and righteousness. By the observance of these a noble 
 liarmony is diffused, and the heart of Heaven and Earth is abundantly 
 displayed. 
 
 ‘‘ If, on the contrary, commerce is conducted merely with a view to 
 gain, quarrels and litigations will spring from it, and it will prove a 
 curse instead of a blessing. Against such a result my ancestors w^re 
 profoundly anxious. Looking thus at the subject, the one topic of 
 intercourse, it is the means by wiiich the people exchange the com- 
 modities wiiich they have abundantly for those wiiich they have not, 
 and one nation succours the distress of another ; its propriety is ijlainly 
 indicated by Providence, and peace, liarmony, and good feeling are its 
 true result. Yet if gain — gain — be what is sought for by it, it will 
 only develoi3 the lusts and angry passions of men, and there will be a 
 melancholy termination to wiiat may be begun under good auspices. 
 It is but a hair’s-breadth which separates those different results ; for 
 give selfishness the reins, and righteousness is instantly merged in the 
 desire of gain. . . . God, by his spiritual pervasion, however, sees, 
 with a parent’s heart, how his children impose on and strive with 
 one another. Must he not be grieved? Must he not be moved 
 to pity? ” 
 
 Fine sentiments these ; often heard even in England — in 
 pulpits and on platforms; but what know we of them on 
 ’Change or in the market-place ? Are these the principles of 
 our trade at Hong Kong, at Yokohama ? Let the benighted 
 Japanese dream on to his conclusion : — 
 
CHAP. III.] LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 
 
 71 
 
 “ But the world may be compared to a chess-board, and every nation 
 also. There cannot be wanting worthy princes and heroic lords. 
 Who is he that shall go before his fellows, whip in hand, to execute 
 the laws of Heaven ? [How Carlylean a philosopher have we here ! J 
 Now great changes are occurring. It is a time of revolution, when 
 every prince should set his heart to act in obedience to providence, 
 and labour for the good of his people. Y ou now live in a steamship 
 of the United States, and you wander over the seas. Have you seen 
 such a man as I indicate ? If you have not, I pray you, wherever 
 you go, to inculcate the principles I have stated on every sovereign 
 and ruler; so shall the wishes of Confucius and Mencius, so many 
 centuries after their time, be made to shine conspicuously in the 
 whole world.” 
 
 This man is, it seems to me, a fair specimen of the people 
 whom we insisted upon civilising ! 
 
 The Chinese passenger who elicited the above statement 
 of principles from the Japanese gentleman tells us in his 
 journal that he was kept very busy in writing verses and 
 sentiments, upon fans chiefly, as souvenirs for his Japanese 
 acquaintances, they in return often presenting him with 
 like mementoes. One ofiicer gave him an ode which he had 
 written on New Year’s morn. It ran thus : — 
 
 “ The bear begins his course again ; 
 
 To me the world seems cold and vain. 
 
 Tsing Hok’s high aim my soul inspires; 
 
 But not in me are Woo-how’s fires. 
 
 With poet’s pencil in my hand. 
 
 And wine-cup near me on the stand, 
 
 I hear the willow rustling at my eaves. 
 
 And watch the opening of its eye-like leaves.” 
 
 The sad and modest contemplativeness of these lines must 
 strike the most prosaic of minds — if any such should venture 
 into this chapter. Another officer presented some lines on 
 spring : — 
 
 “ Last night among the flowers I walked and sang. 
 
 This morn again my voice in green woods rang. 
 
 Beyond men’s ken the way of God above. 
 
 But this spring greenery well proves his love.” 
 
 In response to this our Chinese friend felt impelled to 
 
72 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. III. 
 
 produce ‘‘something of the same kind,” and wrote some 
 lines commencing 
 
 0 face of spring, that now revisitest 
 
 The earth, my soul is stirred by thee to song,” 
 
 and ending as an English poet on the Thames would 
 probably have ended — 
 
 Where shall I go to taste the inspiring cup ? 
 
 I’ll row my boat to yonder clump of trees.” 
 
 One other extract from this Chinese eye-witness of Japan 
 in its pre-civilised days : “ The people are all Buddhists. 
 All about, on the hillsides and by the sea-shore, are images 
 of Buddha, and on most of their tombstones are engraven 
 some words from the ‘ Water-lily ’ classic. At the temple of 
 ‘ Great Kepose ’ I saw people worshipping Buddha, without 
 either incense or lighted candles. When they had finished, 
 they put some money in a box, calling it ‘ let-go-life ’ money, 
 with reference to the Buddhist doctrine which forbids the 
 killing of animals. There -were two priests in the place, 
 who asked me to write some characters for them, on which, 
 struck by the scenery around, I wrote ‘ Encircling peaks, 
 girdling waters.’ They in return described their position 
 in the following lines : — 
 
 ' Here in our little cells we sit, 
 
 Eound our inkstones the white clouds meet. 
 
 Mere dust to us is gold so rare. 
 
 The future gives us not a care.’ 
 
 “ While I was sitting with them, there came a woman 
 to the temple to worship. The sight of her beauty greatly 
 stirred me : — 
 
 “ ‘ Her lips vermilion red, her teeth were white. 
 
 Her hair in clouds rose o’er her eyebrows bright. 
 
 In glittering headdress starlike was her sheen. 
 
 Or like the moon through plum-tree branches seen.’ ” 
 
 The following is the very important memorandum upon 
 the Japanese language by my friend Captain Brinkley, E.A., 
 of Tokio, which I promised to append to this chapter : — 
 
 “ It may be roughly said that a Japanese must devote at least ten 
 
CHAP. III.] LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 
 
 73 
 
 years’ persistent and earnest study to the acquisition of his own lan- 
 guage if he desires to possess a knowledge of it sufficient for the pur- 
 poses of an educated man. The chief difficulty he has to encounter is 
 the caligraphy. 
 
 “ There are three Tarieties of character used in writicg : the square 
 (Kaisho), the running (Giyosho), and the free (Sosho). 
 
 The Kaisho may be called the parent character. It is the same as 
 that used in China, and though perfect familiarity with it will generally 
 render the Giyosho comprehensible, the same cannot be said of the 
 Sosho, which is a form so very rudimentary and incomplete that it 
 requires a separate and even more attentive study than either of its 
 confreres. 
 
 “ Assuming then five thousand as the number of these perplexing 
 hieroglyphics necessary for reading and waiting, it will be seen that 
 without attaching unjust difficulty to the differences of the three forms, 
 some twelve or thirteen thousand characters in all must be stored 
 away in the memory beyond the reach of time and the necessity ol 
 revision, before a Japanese can take his first untrammelled step in 
 pursuit of science. 
 
 Formerly in teaching these characters no attempt was ever made 
 to appeal to the pupil’s reason. For years his studies were confined to 
 a sort of " singing at sight ’ process, and it was not until constant 
 repetition and recitation of the notes uttered by his instructor had 
 enabled him to express the sounds of all the hieroglyphics in the 
 ‘ Bible of obedience ’ and certain other Chinese classics that the 
 explanation of what he read began to form a factor in his education. 
 It may easily be imagined how little the reflective, and how largely 
 the mechanical, faculty was developed by this process, and indeed it 
 has been alw^ays found that the Japanese student’s acquisition of 
 western science is not a little impeded by too minute efforts of 
 memory, and such a bigoted worship of formula and rule that 
 originality and self-reliance cease to be serviceable items in his 
 intellectual repertoire. 
 
 “ The system pursued in the modern schools is in this respect 
 considerably improved. The ^ Kana,’ or Japanese syllabary, is first 
 taught. Of this there are two sorts : the ‘ Katakana,’ consisting of 
 48 symbols, and used only in conjunction with the square character 
 for explanatory purposes or to express grammatical terminations ; and 
 the ‘ Hiragana,’ also consisting of 48 primary characters, but number- 
 ing nearly 150, if varieties of form be included. The latter is very 
 extensively used. With the addition of some 500 'free’ or 'grass’ 
 characters, it forms the syllabary employed by women, and in novels, 
 children's books, and all publications intended for circulation among 
 the illiterate classes it is used alone when sufficient, or with the 
 square character added where confusion of homonyms has to be 
 
74 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. III. 
 
 avoided. After he has mustered these syllabaries the child is trained 
 to recognise and write such easy and common words as are expressed 
 by single characters, the meaning as well as the sound being taught, 
 and subsequently he is introduced to books compiled on a progressive 
 system. No doubt the student’s difficulties are considerably smoothed 
 by this improvement of method, but still the fact remains that at the 
 age of thirteen or fourteen, when he has completed his curriculum at 
 a preparatory school, he must still devote at least five years to the 
 study of his own language before he can be qualified for any official 
 employment, or before he can aspire to even passable proficiency in 
 writing and composition. 
 
 It has been suggested that the characters might be more accessible 
 if acquired through the medium of the ‘ radicals,’ of which there are 
 246, classified according to the number of strokes (from 1 to 17) 
 employed in writing them. Every character is built up with one or 
 more radicals, and it certainly seems a more rational and thorough 
 method to make these the gradient of ascent to the characters than to 
 attack the latter in their unbroken entirety. Europeans have always 
 followed a system based upon this reasoning, but there might be a 
 little presumption in an attempt to substitute the analysis of any 
 novice, however scientific, for the experience of centuries. 
 
 The possibility of dispensing with the square character altogether, 
 and using only the Japanese syllabary, has often been discussed, and of 
 course there can be no second opinion as to the immense mental relief 
 such a change would afford the nation. But the question is one of 
 considerable difficulty. The ‘Kana’ would be amply sufficient to 
 express the sounds of the various words, but its unaided employment 
 would necessarily entail much confusion of homonyms, of which there 
 are a great number in the language. Cases where the context might 
 suffice to establish distinctions would also be rarer than in a European 
 language, for the character of the written style of Japan, as compared 
 with the spoken, is that in the former grammatical inflections and 
 syntactic particles are for the most part omitted, the result being a 
 sort of skeleton structure scarcely intelligible without the aid of the 
 eye as well as the ear. Thus the abolition of the Chinese symbols 
 would not only produce perplexity in particular instances, but also 
 entail a considerable general change in the construction of the language 
 for literary purposes. Nevertheless the attendant advantages seem 
 completely to outweigh the objections, and it may be confidently 
 predicted that until the burden of these multiform hieroglyphics shall 
 have been completely cast aside, Japan must ever be a laggard in the 
 pursuit of science. Probably she has already recognised this fact 
 herself, though the conviction is not yet strong enough to extinguish 
 her reverential love for those quaint monstrosities, in every one of 
 whose complicated strokes she discovers evidence of cultivated re- 
 
CHAP. III.] LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 
 
 75 
 
 finement, and whose perfect forms are in her eyes the most consummate 
 creations of educated art. 
 
 “ For the rest, the language is by no means deficient in terseness or 
 power of expression. It has in Chinese a source upon which it can 
 always draw for supiilement or addition — a source quite as fertile as 
 the ancient classics are to our own language, and more accessible. 
 Thus it is generally possible by the aid of Chinese roots to construct 
 precise and compact equivalents for the terms employed in western 
 science, and since the restoration ( 1868 ) not only has a very large 
 number of such words been added to the vocabulary, but also the 
 classical tendency of public taste has brought into use a variety of 
 pithy and elegant forms of expression that would not have been 
 obtainable from Japanese proper. The want of a relative pronoun 
 occasionally produces involved and somewhat clumsy constructions, 
 and the liberality of the nation’s moral code is marked by a paucity, 
 or at times complete absence, of terms expressing the subtler dis- 
 tinctions of western metaphysics ; but on the whole, if only the terrible 
 blemish of its complex caligraphy were removed, there is no reason 
 why the language should not rank with the most euphonic and not 
 the least complete of our European tongues.” 
 
 The following is the memorandum of Mr. Hyde Clarke 
 upon the relations between the Japanese and African 
 tongues : — 
 
 “One reason why the comparative philology of the Japanese and 
 Loo-choo languages has given so much trouble to investigators is that 
 there are no longer any allied languages in the neighbouring regions. 
 The subject long since attracted my attention, but successive endea- 
 vours to obtain a solution were baffled. At an early period of these 
 researches I was aware of resemblances to the Dravidian languages of 
 India and to the Basque, but they afforded no decided results. The 
 first real step made by me was the discovery of relations between the 
 languages of the Japanese region and the Ashantee and others of 
 Western Africa. Such a connection seemed, however, very unpromis- 
 ing, because the ethnological differences between the Japanese and the 
 Western Africans are so very decided. It was, however, my duty to 
 register the results, awaiting the explanation. Although other in- 
 vestigations have occupied me, so that it has not been possible to work 
 out fully the Jaiianese problem, the area of observation is now deter- 
 mined for the language, the mythology, and even the ethnology. 
 
 “ These investigations are given in more detail in papers wfflich have 
 been this year given to the Anthropological Institute, the Philological 
 Society, and the Koyal Historical Society, and which are in continua- 
 tion of my books and papers on Prehistoric and Protohistoric Com- 
 parative Philology and Mythology and on Krita-Peruvian. These 
 
76 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. III. 
 
 labours have been directed to the explanation of the position of the 
 races of early culture, the Abkad-Babylonians, the Egyptians, Lydians, 
 Etruscans, the founders of the Chinese and Japanese empires, and also 
 those of the North American mounds and monuments of the civilisa- 
 tion of Mexico and Peru. 
 
 In carrying out this undertaking it was necessary for me on ethno- 
 logical grounds to distinguish a white race earlier in the field of history 
 than the Aryans. Lately it has seemed most consistent with the 
 course of historical events, and in conformity with all the incidents, to 
 look for the seat of this Turanian white race in High Africa, in regions 
 as healthy as those of High Asia, from which the Aryan migrations 
 are held to have proceeded. 
 
 The first conquests of these Turano- Africans were evidently made 
 in Central Africa, because the languages of all the leading states and 
 nations, Pulo, Bornu, Mandenga, etc., afi’ord to this day the identical 
 words of the early dead languages, as well as of those living languages 
 that are considered to be allied with them. Thus the Abkad words 
 in the vocabularies of M. Lenormant will be found, and also the Ugro- 
 Altaic illustrations. 
 
 It was also from the West African regions that migrations were 
 made to North, Central, and South America, in continuation of earlier 
 migrations. So to this standard are brought the languages and 
 mythology of America. If a linguistic map be made down of this 
 Atlantic hemisphere, then the languages of America will be found to 
 converge towards West Africa, and from that point the living and 
 dead languages spread out again. As to the mythology and also 
 language, a monograph will be found in my memoir on Siva and 
 Serpent-worship, founded on the Bribi i and other languages of Central 
 America. 
 
 “ That the Egyptian language and civilisation had the same origin 
 is evident from the fact that the Egyptian and Coptic words (and also 
 those of the allied language of the Ude of the Caucasus *) are found on 
 the same area. This has been long looked for on the supposition that 
 the Egyptians propagated culture in Africa, whereas the reverse was 
 the case. The researches have not, however, borne full fruit, as they 
 were not rightly directed. Leo Eeinisch,t in attempting to establish 
 a Tibbu or Teda origin, has supplied a mass of matter on the relations 
 between Egyptian and the languages of West, Central, and South 
 Africa. Professor Owen is decidedly of opinion that the early ruling- 
 race in Egypt was of a high type. 
 
 “The tide of migration and conquest flowed to Babylonia. As 
 
 * See my ‘ Comparative Philology f ‘ einlieitliclic Urspriing der 
 of Egyptian, Coptic, and Udc’ (Lon- Sprachcn der Altenwelt’ (Wien, 
 don, Triibner). 1873). 
 
CHAP. III.] 
 
 LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 
 
 77 
 
 already stated, the language is of the Turano-African class. The 
 same is to he said for the early occupants of Asia Minor, Syria, 
 Greece, Italy, and Spain. 
 
 “ With regard to India, the Naga languages now spoken by inferior 
 hill-tribes belong to the class cited, and in sequence to them are the 
 Kolarian languages and the Dra vidian. So close does the Kolarian 
 come to one African type that the Mundala dialect of the Kol has 
 been traced by me word for word with the Houssa of Africa to a 
 great extent. 
 
 The fall of these Turano-African empires in succession, and over a 
 long epoch, completely altered the condition of mankind. The dawn 
 of history shows us the Semites first, and the Aryans afterwards, engaged 
 in this task. Syria and Babylonia were conquered by the Semites, 
 while the Aryans became masters of Greece, Italy, and Spain at a later 
 period, and then of Asia Minor and Greece, and afterwards of India. 
 
 The Egyptians, profiting by the w^eakness of their masters, estab- 
 lished their own government. Ethiopia lingered, but the African 
 states must early have fallen into the possession of the black natives, 
 however long white dynasties continued to reign. 
 
 “ The knowledge of ascertained historical events and of actual facts 
 prepares us to apply this knowledge to the case of the Japanese. The 
 conquerors of the islands were of the same class as the other con- 
 querors, and they found a local population of one or more races. At 
 that distance from their centre, and consisting of bands of seamen and 
 soldiers, gradually recruited, they would have few women of their own 
 kin, and would intermarry with the natives. In time the ruling caste 
 would cease to be separate from the main body of the people. 
 
 “ What the conquerors and founders of the Japanese language and 
 mythology were will be found from the comi^arative table of words 
 herewith given.* These are far from complete, as the labours imposed 
 by the main inquiry have not allowed me to devote a special attention 
 to the Japanese braneh. 
 
 “ Whoever will take the trouble to look at these records philoso- 
 phically and statistically will find guiding facts. He cannot fail to 
 discern that there are resemblances and identities in the African 
 column. He will further find that these are not casual, as the same 
 names of African dialects constantly recur. 
 
 “ With regard to the illustrations from Indian and other languages, 
 they are less striking, and for this reason, that the languages are 
 better and more copiously preserved in Africa than elsewhere. For 
 instance, in Northern India the Aryans have established their lan- 
 guages among the main populations, and driven the non-Aryan- 
 speaking tribes to the hills. 
 
 * See Appendix. 
 
78 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. III. 
 
 “ The incidence of language like that of mythology is altogether 
 apart from that of race, and we have white, brown, and black men 
 speaking allied languages, just as we find white, brown, and black 
 Christians and Mussulmans. 
 
 “ With regard to the relationship of the languages, it is to be explained 
 that in the Turano-African class it is very different from the Indo- 
 European. What we call Indo-European languages are very much 
 alike in w’ords and grammar. It is true that some words are not of 
 the same stock, but still any two languages are very much alike. 
 
 “ This is by no means so in Turano-African. Indeed an example, 
 which belongs to this class, shows it. The Ugro-Altaic languages 
 are placed together by philolog^ists, and their grammatical characters 
 have the strongest resemblance, but the Magyar and the Turk, for 
 instance, have little community of words. When a comparison is 
 made of Abkad with Ugro-Altaic, the words will mostly agree with 
 the Ugrian portion, and not with the others. Nevertheless Abkad 
 is not Ugrian. 
 
 “ We have to contemplate a class of languages consisting of various 
 groups, say A, B, C, D. If we take a language, say Japanese, and 
 compare it with A, we shall find only a partial resemblance, and 
 so with B, C, and B, but it is equal to A, B, C, D, and so with Abkad 
 or Cojitic. There are similar variations of grammatical forms. Our 
 comparison has to be made with the whole class in order to determine 
 the classification. On being put to this test, Japanese is distinctly 
 Turano-African. 
 
 “ It consequently belongs to the epoch of early culture, earlier than 
 that which we understand as the Babylonian, and in wdiich language, 
 characters, mythology, astronomy, geology, and it may be said 
 geography, were determined. 
 
 “ With regard to the ethnology of the Japanese populations, it is more 
 obscure. The language of the Ainos is not indigenous, but is to be 
 traced to the general stock of languages, and its analogies are to 
 be found in Africa. 
 
 In Africa, more distinctly than anywhere else, is to be found the 
 ethnological characteristic of short races. These short races are in 
 linguistic communion with other short races. The language of the 
 Great Andaman Islanders has been positively identified by me as 
 having African affinities. 
 
 “ The best explanation that can at present be proposed is that the 
 Japanese islands were occupied by the migrations of the short races. 
 These were subjected by a subsequent migration of the white Turano- 
 Africans, who intermarried with the native women. This would 
 produce a mixed race, differing again from the races of shorter 
 aborigines. Thus the new dominating Japanese race would maintain 
 and propagate their dialect of the language and their sect of the 
 
CHAP. III.] 
 
 LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 
 
 79 
 
 religion, and, being in more favourable conditions, would displace the 
 pure natives. 
 
 “ When the Pacific route to America was closed by the weakness 
 of the Turano- Africans, and the rising of cannibals and other savages, 
 the Japanese would be isolated on their east. On their west, the 
 Turano-African dynasties in China and Korea fell, and were replaced 
 by natives, the same kind or series of events taking place as in 
 Egypt, and again in Peru and Mexico. 
 
 Japan was isolated from the other states, and in time various 
 ethnological, mythological, and political conditions were established, 
 making the distinctions successively more marked. 
 
 The Japanese language, however, appears to have been less affected 
 by these changes than Egyptian or Chinese. 
 
 “ The tables given in an Appendix show some comparisons of Japanese 
 with African languages, and with others, chiefly of the Indian region.” 
 
 JAPANESE JENKS. 
 
80 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IV. 
 
 CHAPTEE IV. 
 
 DRAWING AND PAINTING. 
 
 Our opportunities of studying Japanese art — Temple art treasures — Studies 
 in Kioto — Artistic seances — Foreign derivation of the art — Government 
 patronage— Early artists of distinction— Kano and his school — The 
 Toho school — Ohio and the Shiyo Kin— Hokusai, the Japanese Hogarth 
 — The schools” of Japan — Professor Anderson upon Japanese design, 
 composition, drawing, perspective, chiaroscuro, and colour — The beauty 
 of the human form not duly appreciated in Japan — Sir Eutherford 
 Alcock on Japanese art — Frequent recurrence of pictorial subjects — 
 Legend of the cuckoo and the moon — Anticipated progress of the 
 Japanese in European art styles — Their technical mastery. 
 
 • 
 
 If the inspection of Japanese drawings and paintings of 
 every age and every description qualified one for writing 
 •upon this subject, or even if adding to this inspection the 
 repeated expositions of those who have studied it, and fre- 
 quent witnessings of the exercise of the art, fitted one to 
 speak with confidence upon it, then might I enter upon this 
 chapter with a very considerable amount of assurance. For 
 in the three months spent in the country we had extraordi- 
 nary and multiplied facilities for examining examples of the 
 works of every age since drawing and painting began to be 
 practised in Japan, and saw many works of eminent artists 
 produced in the capitals and other places. In addition to 
 our visits to the most ancient temples, in some of which the 
 very earliest works are preserved, we had repeated oppor- 
 tunities of leisurely inspecting the old temple treasuries of 
 art, usually kept in the priests’ residences, in which some of 
 the choicest products of thirteen hundred years of art- 
 production are kept with sacred care. On one occasion 
 during our stay in the western capital (Kioto) we were so 
 
CHAP. IV.] 
 
 BRA WING AND PAINTING. 
 
 81 
 
 fortunate as to be taken to the store-rooms of an art- exhi- 
 bition then in course of formation, and there inspected a 
 collection of drawings and paintings brought together from 
 the principal temples throughout the land. In addition to 
 a large number of most precious Japanese works, we had 
 the advantage on that occasion of seeing many ancient 
 paintings brought from China by the Buddhist clergy of 
 various periods. Besides these choice possessions of the 
 temples, we likewise saw the imperial palaces at Kioto and 
 Nagoya, where are some of the most perfect and charac- 
 teristic paintings ever produced in the country — in addition 
 to carved work, which, I may say incidentally, at Nagoya 
 far surpassed any that I elsewhere came across, and which 
 w^as inferior in no respect, I believe, to the work of Grinling 
 Gibbons, while to a European eye the subjects were often 
 quaint and novel to the last degree. Further, we had oppor- 
 tunities of inspecting valuable private collections; and as 
 the habit of frequently changing the Jccd'emono * prevails in 
 Japan, a large number of the best examples that could be 
 put before us passed under our view. Our host. Admiral 
 Kawamura, was particularly thoughtful and obliging in this 
 way, having the walls not only of his reception rooms, but 
 of our private apartments likewise, hung with a constant 
 succession of works of the highest class, sometimes ancient 
 and sometimes modern. The governor of Kioto was equally 
 kind, having the walls of the temple-residence in which we 
 stayed hung almost daily with a succession of the finest 
 examples of art which that ancient city contains. Nor was 
 this the case as regards kakemono only in Kioto, for the 
 same thing took place with respect to the screens which 
 are so largely used in Japan, and which were continually 
 changed, choice and fresh drawings, paintings, brocades, 
 and embroideries on silk thus passing daily under our eyes. 
 The like attention and complimentary care were shown also 
 by the courteous governor in respect of other works of art. 
 
 * Hanging pictures mounted on rollers — the almost universal form of 
 wall-pictures in Japan. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 G 
 
82 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IV. 
 
 including galcumono* lacquers, bronzes, ivory carvings, 
 cloisonne ware, fans, silks, and other of the best productions 
 of the long-sacred but now busily commercial city. But 
 we had yet another and very valuable opportunity of study- 
 ing both ancient and modern Japanese pictures, one afforded 
 to us by Professor Anderson, the director of the Medical 
 College at Tokio, who has made a close study of this branch 
 of art during his residence in that city. Professor Anderson 
 has collected there a number of highly characteristic draw- 
 ings and paintings, and w^as engaged in preparing a paper 
 — and if I remember rightly a book — upon the subject. 
 Besides showing us his collection, and explaining the 
 various merits and demerits of the pictures, he was good 
 enough to furnish me with some historic and critical notes, 
 of which, with his permission, I propose to avail myself 
 freely in what follows.! 
 
 The above opportunities, numerous and invaluable as they 
 ■were, were not, however, our only means of studying the art 
 of Japan as now practised. By the kindness of Admiral 
 Kawamura and his friends, we were favoured with repeated 
 seances with eminent living artists, and witnessed the draw- 
 ing and painting of many pictures, not a few of which were 
 subsequently presented to me. These seances occurred both 
 in the capital and in country cities and towns, as we found 
 leisure in travelling through the interior. It would be diffi- 
 cult to exaggerate the interest and pleasure of these occasions, 
 the artists ranging from sketches of the boldest character 
 executed in the most rapid manner, to works of minute and 
 painstaking detail, growing up under the hand of the artist 
 with all the sincerity and much of the beauty of natural 
 objects. Nor did we fail to see a large amount of amateur 
 drawing performed, skill with the brush being no uncommon 
 
 * Pictures mounted ou rolls to be 
 viewed in detail as they are unrolled 
 by baud. 
 
 t By the courtesy of Professor 
 Anderson I came into possession 
 of an excellent coi)v of Hokusai’s 
 
 celebrated sketches in many volumes, 
 from whicli the great bulk of all 
 European illustrations of Japanese 
 drawing has been deiived. This 
 work is now' becoming rare, and 
 difficult to obtain. 
 
CRAP. IV.] 
 
 DB AWING AND PAINTING. 
 
 83 
 
 accomplishment among both the ladies and gentlemen of 
 this “ nation of artists.” 
 
 Although the rise of the pictorial arts of Japan is lost in 
 the distance of tradition, and although it is not solely a 
 mere imitation of the art of China or Korea, it is not denied 
 that it was originally derived from foreigners. So long ago 
 as the year 463 a.d. the emperor Yariaku, who did so much 
 in the way of bringing skilled and instructed foreigners 
 into Japan, likewise brought over from Kudara, in Korea, a 
 band of artists among whom was one whose name, Inshiraga, 
 has been preserved. Others followed from time to time ; and 
 although it is not possible to affirm with certainty that any 
 of their works have descended to us, there is great reason to 
 believe that certain portraits, etc., which were shown to us 
 in the ancient temple of Horiuji (between Osaka and Kara) 
 were the productions of the famous Prince Shotoku-taishi, or 
 at least of his age, he being the son of the empress Suiko, 
 who reigned at the end of the sixth and the beginning of 
 the seventh century.* It is recorded that during the reign 
 of this empress, one Doncho, a very learned priest and a 
 painter of great merit, was sent by the state of Koma, in 
 Korea, to promote the interests of the Buddhist faith, then 
 making its conquest of Japan. The art had so far pro- 
 gressed at the opening of the eighth century that the govern- 
 ment had established a painting department, comprising 
 several artists, and as many as sixty secondary artists or 
 sketchers. Early in the ninth century this department was 
 merged in the architectural department, and the work of 
 the artists and their staff was probably purely that of 
 decorating the imperial palace, etc. Keligious art, so ‘to 
 speak, was at this time, however, firmly established, and 
 many pictures were brought over from China by the priest 
 
 * The native authority says : 
 “ Les oeuvres de cette epoque [fiftli 
 century] ne sont pas parvenues 
 jusqua nouSj et le q)lus uncien 
 tableau que nous possedions represente 
 le prince Shd-toku-taishi. Ce tableau. 
 
 ex^cuM sous le regne de Vimp^ratrice 
 Suilco, au commencement du vii^' 
 siecle, est precieusement conserve dans 
 le temple de Uoriuji, situe dans la 
 'province de Yamato.’’' 
 
 G 2 
 
84 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [OHAP. IV. 
 
 Knkai (Kobodaishi), to whose learning and services I have 
 before referred in the chapter on Buddhism. Kobodaishi is 
 said to have painted many Buddhist pictures, together with 
 a portrait of himself. But the first Japanese artist well 
 worthy of the name was Kose no Kanaoke, a court noble, 
 who flourished during the second half of this century (the 
 ninth). He was a pupil of a Chinese (Gokiyoshi), of whom 
 we know nothing but his name. Kanaoke, whose name is 
 a household word in educated Japan, painted landscapes, 
 animals, portraits, and Buddhist pictures with remarkable 
 skill, and is the subject of many curious legends. Some of 
 his works are still in existence, and are thought to justify 
 the esteem in which he is held ; one, a portrait of the 
 Buddhist deity Fudo,* is to be seen in the temple of Haiyo- 
 ji, Tokio. It is distinguished hy great ease and vigour of 
 outline, and compares favourably with some of the efforts 
 of the early Italian masters. The descendants of Kanaoke 
 maintained his reputation for several generations at the 
 court of Kioto, 
 
 Toba Sojo, a high- rank priest of the Tendai sect of Bud- 
 dhists, distinguished himself as an original and skilful artist 
 in the eleventh century. Toba was a humourist, and his 
 sketches gave the name to all later caricatures, which are 
 still called Tobaye. The productions of his successors and 
 imitators are too ill-drawn to deserve serious artistic criti- 
 cism, besides which the wit which has inspired them is too 
 Babelaisian to allow their reproduction in the present age. 
 Other names that have lived became distinguished in the 
 next century or two ; among them several members of the 
 otherwise renowned Fujiwara family. There were Fujiwara 
 Mototsune, Fujiwara Nobuzane, and Fujiwara Tsunetaku, the 
 grandson of Fujiwara Takayoshi. Tsunetaku, in addition to 
 
 * Mr. Pfoundes says that this idol and in the left a coil of rope to tie np 
 
 is generally seated, and always the guilty. He would therefore have 
 
 surrounded with flames, holding a been a suitable illustration of the 
 
 naked sword in the right hand, theology of some so-called Christians 
 
 with which to punish wicked and not very many years ago. 
 
 territled humanity into obedience, 
 
CHAP. IV.] 
 
 DBA WINO AND FAINTING. 
 
 85 
 
 becoming celebrated as a court j>ainter, became vice-governor 
 of the province of Tosa, and his descendants therefore 
 adopted Tosa as the family name. The first to adopt it was 
 Fujiwara Mitsimobu (the fourth in descent from Tsunetaku), 
 who is looked upon as the real founder of w^hat is known 
 as the Tosa School, or Tosa Riu. This branch of art was 
 employed to delineate the nobles of the court in their 
 ceremonial dresses, and other like subjects. It was a less 
 vigorous style than that which went before it, but was not 
 deficient of a certain sort of beauty, and was particularly 
 noted for the fineness of its strokes. The school has lasted 
 for five hundred years ; but in 1662, Hiromochi, one of the 
 descendants of Tosa, changed the family name to Sumiyoshi, 
 and under that name the Tosa family of artists have con- 
 tinued down to our own day. 
 
 A native writer says : “ During the middle ages, from 
 1305 to 1349, Kao, Meicho, Josetsu, Shiubun, and others 
 appeared, who studied the style of the Chinese dynasties 
 of So and Gen. This style is noted for its sketchy 
 character, confining itself to making, by means of a few 
 hasty strokes, a mere approximate outline of the object 
 delineated.” Professor Anderson puts the case somewhat 
 differently in his notes. He says : “ In the fourteenth 
 century, a period of art decadence was terminated by a 
 priest named Josetsu, a native of Korea (he is claimed by 
 some authorities, however, as Japanese), who founded a school 
 which boasted among its alumni three of the great names 
 of the art history of Japan, Sesshiu, Shiubun, and Kano 
 Masanobu. Little or nothing is known however of Josetsu 
 himself. Chodensu, a monk, the most distinguished repre- 
 sentative of religious art, was a contemporary of his. 
 Sesshiu completed his education in China,” where, during 
 the Min dynasty, he is said to have attained great fame, 
 “ and on his return painted many remarkable landscapes, 
 chiefly depicting views in the Celestial Land. Some of his 
 most valued works were produced after the age of eighty. 
 Several of his pupils gained great renown.” 
 
 Kano Masanobu, whose name Professor Anderson mentions 
 
86 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IV. 
 
 above, and who was of the province of Sagami, bad a son, 
 Kano Motonobu, who achieved great fame as an artist, and 
 holds probably the first place in the estimation of native 
 connoisseurs. He founded the most prolific school of Japanese 
 art, and his descendants, like those of Sumiyoshi, continue 
 to practise the profession at the present day. I have in my 
 possession several pictures painted by a member of the Kano 
 family during my visit to Japan, and presented to me by 
 Admiral Kawamura. No one could fail to discern in them 
 merit of a very high order, or to derive great pleasure from 
 them.* Professor Anderson says of the pictures of Motonobu, 
 the founder of the Kano School : “ Even to the eye of a 
 foreigner the vigour of design and the complete mastery 
 of the brush displayed in his paintings of landscape and 
 figures appear very extraordinary.” Of his descendants the 
 best known are Kano Tanyu (sixteenth century) and Tsune- 
 nobu (seventeenth century). Towards the end of the six- 
 teenth century, Iwasa Matabe took up the Tosa style, and 
 delineated the customs of his age. 
 
 In the latter part of the seventeenth century a pupil of 
 the Kano family, named Hanabusa Icho, distinguished him- 
 self by displaying much original genius. Casting aside the 
 traditions of his youth and training, he struck out a new 
 line for himself, and took scenes of ordinary street life, 
 and more especially such as were humorous, as the subjects 
 of his art. “ His drawings show little attention to details 
 of form or colour, but are novel in design and forcible in 
 outline ” (Anderson). His most noted follower was Ippo. 
 Between 1688 and 1703, Hishagawa Moronobu, of Yedo,f 
 did much to render the Matabe style popular. Professor 
 Anderson says “ he is considered the inventor of the Ukiijo~ye,'' 
 (or “ social pictures”), “but in reality the credit should be 
 
 * A native writer said last year 
 (1878) : “ Les families de Kano et de 
 Tosa existent encore aujourd'Tiui, et 
 comptent dans leurs rangs des peintres 
 de merite,” 
 
 t Mr. Yosino speaks of him as of 
 Yedo ; Professor Andersoii calls him 
 
 “ a native of Kioto.” While the 
 latter authority speaks of him, as 
 the text shows, as the inventor of 
 the Ukiyo-ye, a native authority 
 speaks of him as the founder of the 
 Utagawa style. 
 
CHAP. IV.] 
 
 DBAWINQ AND PAINTING. 
 
 87 
 
 shared with Icho.” Mr. Yosino and other native authorities, 
 however, state of Matabe, who was earlier by a century, that 
 his jiroductions are generally known as Z77ayo-ye,’’ 
 say that Hishagawa Moronohu’s distinction is that of 
 rendering popular the style of Matabe, as I have already 
 said. Torii Kiyoinitsu, Okuda Masanobu, and other artists 
 also distinguished themselves in the practice of this style. 
 
 Early in the eighteenth century (about 1720) a celebrated 
 Chinese painter, named Chin-nam-ping, went to Nagasaki, 
 acquired a great reputation, and taught many pupils. Other 
 countrymen of his followed (Chinumei, Shahuson, and others), 
 and Chinese painting again became the fashion, and spread 
 itself throughout the country. But towards the end of 
 that (the last) century, two contemporary Japanese painters 
 exhibited so much originality and power as to give a fresh 
 start to Japanese art, and upon a direction tending farther 
 than ever from the traditions of the schools. These were 
 Maruyama Okio and Katzushika Hokusai. These great 
 artists indulged in more direct reference to nature than 
 any of their predecessors. Of Okio Professor Anderson says 
 he only partially carried out his principles ; and although 
 the Shiyo Eiu, founded by him,* has had many followers, it 
 has not succeeded in diminishing the influence of the Chinese 
 style and its modifications. Of Hokusai, who did not emerge 
 from obscurity till rather late in life, he says that he was 
 the first lieimin (commoner) of Japan who made for himself 
 a name in art, and this his genius enabled him to do in spite 
 of the neglect and professed contempt of those who con- 
 sidered themselves the best judges ; “ but he alone under- 
 stood the JJhiyo-tje, and the multitude of admirers he found 
 in his own class consoled him, if he needed consolation, for 
 hi's seclusion from the select artistic circles.” Hokusai has 
 
 * “ His most noted pupil was Grenki. 
 In more recent times, an offshoot of 
 the school, named Hikuchi Yosai, 
 rose into notice, but the art-critics 
 did not know whether or not to 
 atlmiro his free unconventional 
 outlines, which, although expressing 
 
 admirably the intentions of the 
 artist, were at variance with all 
 the revered examples of past ages. 
 The Zenken-no-jitsu, in twenty 
 volumes, gives the best example of 
 his style.” — Anderson’s MS. notes. 
 
88 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IV. 
 
 left but few of his drawings behind him, owing to the fact 
 that he devoted himself mainly to sketching on wood for 
 the engraver ; hut his thirty well-filled volumes of engraved 
 sketches are a worthy memorial of his powers. He excelled 
 in drawings illustrative of the life of people in the field and 
 street, giving the comic more often than the tragic, or the 
 neutral, aspect of things ; but he sometimes applied himself 
 with success to historical and religious subjects. His works 
 have been so often copied by strangers that it is chiefly 
 from them that foreigners have derived their ideas of 
 Japanese pictorial art. Hokusai had both rivals and pupils, 
 but none who has eclipsed his name and fame. A hundred 
 other names of note in Japanese art might be given — names 
 more readily recognised by the average Japanese than those 
 of Eeynolds and Hogarth by the average Englishman ; but 
 the above will suffice for my purpose. 
 
 I have said that it is largely from such sketches as those 
 of Hokusai that foreigners have derived their ideas of 
 Japanese pictorial art, and in this fact I have virtually 
 stated that their ideas of that art are extremely narrow 
 and mistaken. The style copied is no doubt both original 
 and characteristic in a high degree, as was that of John 
 Leech, for example, among ourselves ; but no one would 
 think of judging English art by the works of Leech, and no 
 one should think of judging that of Japan by the works 
 of Hokusai. The historical sketch that I have given above 
 shows that the Uhiyo~ye, or popular art, is comparatively in 
 point of time, and essentially in point of form, modern, and 
 no sort of justice to Japanese art can be done by those 
 who limit their attention to its delineations. For this reason 
 works like that of Sir Eutherford Alcock (‘ Art and Art 
 Industries of Japan ’), in which nearly all the illustrations 
 of pictorial art are derived from the one source, must not 
 for a moment he considered to present a fair general view 
 of the characteristics of Japanese drawing and painting.* 
 
 * I am told that a similar remark Japan,’ but that ^York I myself have 
 would apply to Mr. Jarves’s Ameri- not seen, 
 can book, ‘ A Glimpse at the Art of 
 
CHAP. IV.] 
 
 DBA WING AND FAINTING. 
 
 89 
 
 Nor, if that were otherwise, is any sort of justice usually 
 clone in such works by the English engravers to the delicacy 
 and beauty of the Japanese originals which they profess to 
 copy. I have compared many such professed copies wuth 
 Hokusai’s original engravings, and am obliged to say that 
 they can only be considered as coarse and rude reminis- 
 cences of the work that left the hands of the Japanese 
 artists. The meaning of the sketches is also, I am told, 
 often misinterpreted. I have had a few engravings copied 
 by Japanese engravers from Hokusai for this work. 
 
 The schools or styles of Japanese pictorial art may be 
 summarised as follows : 1. Korai Riu, or Korean School, 
 which was the first introduced into Japan, as we have seen, 
 and which resembles the Chinese School in all essential 
 particulars. 2. Kara Biu, or Chinese School proper, which 
 has been subdivided into periods from the To * (in Chinese, 
 Tang) to the Sei (Tsing) dynasty, and into three styles 
 which may he compared in execution to the square, cursive, 
 and intermediate characters in caligraphy. This Kara Biu 
 is, beyond doubt, the true parent of Japanese pictorial art, 
 the Korean School, although arriving first in the country, 
 being but an offshoot from the Chinese. The Kara Biu 
 was largely taught — chiefly during the Sung and Min 
 dynasties — by Chinese immigrants, and by Japanese who 
 had been to China to study art. “ Until the time of Okio, 
 at the end of the last century, Japanese painters adhered so 
 closely to the rules framed by the Chinese schools, and 
 commonly even to the subjects in vogue with Chinese 
 artists, that Japanese art was entitled only to rank as a 
 branch of the other school ; the only exceptions are found 
 in the works of Icho and Hishigawa Moronohu, and even 
 their productions scarcely merit the name of original art ” 
 (Anderson). Desirous as I am to do justice to the Japanese, 
 I am hound to say that injustice is often done to the Chi- 
 nese in works upon Japanese art by foreign writers. The 
 
 * To (Tang) is the name of the To has come to be generally used in 
 dynasty which governed China from Japan for China and the Chinese. 
 618 to 906 of our era; but the word To-jinis a Chinaman. 
 
90 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IV. 
 
 Japanese themselves, as I have elsewhere remarked, are 
 always ready to hear the fullest testimony to the advantages 
 derived by Japan from China and Korea through many 
 centuries, and in many branches of art and industry. But 
 foreigners who visit Japan appear to fall so completely under 
 the spell of the land and of the people — and fascinating both 
 certainly are — that they fail to see what is original and what 
 is derivative in that which they behold. But in fairness to 
 China it must he acknowledged, and by the Japanese is 
 acknowledged, that much of that “ grace of outline, freedom 
 of stroke, and delicacy of colouring ” which characterise 
 Japanese art, and constitute no small part of its charm, is 
 drawn from the art of China. I have had, as stated earlier 
 in this chapter, rare opportunities for comparing Chinese 
 paintings of the Min period still preserved in Japan with 
 those of various Japanese masters, and I greatly doubt if 
 Sir Eutherford Alcock or Mr. Jarves, or any other writer 
 who may have exhibited a tendency to undervalue the art of 
 China, would he able to separate them with certainty into 
 their respective schools. 3. Kanaoha Riu^ founded in the 
 ninth century by Kose no Kanaoka, as previously stated, 
 and continued by his family for many generations. 4. 
 Talcuina Biu. This was an adaptation in the early part of 
 the thirteenth century of the existing rules of Chinese art 
 to the representation of Japanese court ceremonials, etc., and 
 although exhibiting skill in its way was devoid of any 
 great artistic merits. 5. Toha-ye, originated as already 
 described in this chapter. All roughly drawn caricatures 
 are still known as Toha-ye, hut Toba Sojo does not appear 
 to have been succeeded by artists at all comparable with 
 himself. A later form of caricature, originated by Iw^asa 
 Mitahe, and first sold at the ancient city of Otsu, derived its 
 name from that place, and became known as, 6, Otsu-ye.* 
 Of 7, Josetsu Bill, nothing need be added to what has already 
 been said, hut of the school founded by Josetsu’s pupil Ses- 
 
 * “No artists of note contributed to present found in Kioto, Osaka, and 
 maintain the reputation made by the other places are scarcely wortliy of 
 founder, and the ‘ Otsu-ye ’ as at notice.” — Anderson. 
 
CHAP. IV.] 
 
 DRAWING AND FAINTING. 
 
 91 
 
 sliiu, 8. Sesshiu Biu, I must quote a few words : “ Sessliiu, 
 after studying in China, became one of the greatest artists 
 of Japan. His most noted pupils were Shingetsu and 
 Sesson, but many well-known painters belonged to his 
 school. The Sesshiu Kin so closely resembled the Kara Kiu, 
 that it was probably only the celebrity of Sesshiu that gave 
 the school a distinctive title. One of his descendants living 
 in the last century maintained that the Japanese art of his 
 period was as much Kara-ye as that of modern Chinese 
 painters, both being drawn from the same source, and more 
 or less modified by individual artists ” (Anderson). Of 9, 
 Tosa Biu, it is needless to add to what has been said, 
 beyond observing that, while it afforded considerable display 
 for colouring, its merit inclined to decorative rather than to 
 imaginative or truthful art. 10. Kano Biu, the best-known 
 and most influential of all the native schools, and coming 
 down, as we have seen, from the fifteenth century to our own 
 day. 11. IcJio Biu, and 12, Ukiyo ye, already described. 
 The latter name I have rendered as “ social pictures by 
 others it is sometimes rendered ‘‘ worldly pictures.” It 
 literally means, I am told, “ floating world,” and implies 
 that the subjects are taken from actual life, in distinction 
 from the favourite Buddhistic and legendary motives of the 
 older schools. ‘‘ The TJhiyo-ye may be divided into two 
 sections, an order to which belong Hishigawa Moronobu and 
 his followers, and a modern phase of which Hokusai is the 
 presiding genius.” The pictures of Hishigawa Moronobu, 
 not unlike those of the Tosa Kiu in style, represent a less 
 characteristic phase of* Japanese life than those of Hokusai, 
 and are less spirited and truthful. The later IJldyo-ye is 
 best exemplified in the Hokusai Mangua, and the Wciyo 
 Guafu by Keisai Hiroshige. More may be learned of the 
 true nature of the Japanese masses from a study of these 
 marvellous collections of sketches than from a library of 
 the descriptions of the country found in Europe, but it 
 is necessary that every page should be explained by a 
 Japanese, and perhaps by a Japanese heimin, one of the 
 class for whom the work was composed ” (Anderson). 
 
92 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IV. 
 
 13. Shnjo Riu. This school was founded, as previously 
 stated, by Ohio, and was characterised by a more direct and 
 loyal resort to nature than his predecessors had allowed 
 themselves ; but the influence of Chinese principles aud 
 methods were too strong even for him, and he was not 
 successful in inspiring his pupils even with the same 
 amount of devotion to nature as animated himself. 14. 
 Butsu-ye, or Buddhist paintings. The first paintings 
 known in Japan were of this kind, and, although the style 
 was imported from Korea, it is probably of Indian rather 
 than of Chinese origin. This branch of art bears close and 
 curious analogies to the early religious art of Europe, both 
 being practised chiefly by monks, and both exhibiting much 
 bright and decorative colouring, with a free use of gold in 
 the display of saintly forms and glorifications. Lastly, 
 Bunyi-re, an unimportant but common style of painting, 
 employed for the illustration of poetry, most frequently by 
 noble amateurs. 
 
 The practice of painting in Chinese (or “Indian”) ink is 
 exceedingly common in Japan, and this form of art is desig- 
 nated Siunie. Originally this prevailed only among poets 
 and literary persons, and had, says a native writer, “ pour 
 caractm'e distinctif le bon gout.” He goes on to say : “ Les 
 peintres qui ont ensuite imite ce genre de peinture ont 
 quelquefois voulu representer sous une forme legm'e une idee 
 serieuse, et ont suppled ]}arfois aux imperfections de I’esquisse 
 par des strophes de poesie. Les regies relatives a ce genre 
 sont pen nombreuses et vagues ; mais, bien que les traits en 
 soient vigoureux et hardis, on y retrouve pourtant certains 
 petits details. Les sujets favoris des peintres de ce genre 
 sont les sites pittoresques, les montagnes abruptes, les rochers 
 escarpes, etc. ; ils transportent, pour ainsi dire, par I’imagi- 
 nation, le spectateur sur les lieux memes.” One would scarcely 
 have supposed that these last observations were specially 
 applicable to Indian-ink drawings ; but there they are, in 
 an official record, and they must be taken as the expression 
 of the opinion of the native writer. 
 
 Anticipating that my own opinion of Japanese art would 
 
CHAP. IV.] 
 
 DBA WING AND PAINTING. 
 
 93 
 
 carry but little weight with it, and nevertheless desiring to 
 include in this work some statement of its characteristics 
 that would he valuable to my readers, I obtained from my 
 friend, upon whose kindness I have already so frequently 
 drawn in this chapter, Professor Anderson, the following 
 summary of his conclusions : — 
 
 “ Originalitij of design . — Not strongly marked until 
 within the last two hundred years, most of the older pic- 
 tures being variations of Chinese models. Wit of a high 
 form is perceptible even to the foreign eye in many 
 draAvings of the Toba-ye and Ukiyo-ye. 
 
 Comioosition. — Nearly always good, the grouping of 
 figures and accessories contributing as far as possible to 
 tell the tale and to please the eye. 
 
 “ Draiving . — Almost invariably conventional. Excellent 
 in birds, flowers, monkeys, fishes, and insect life. Defec- 
 tive as regards anatomy in the human figure and in most 
 animals, but successful in conveying impressions of action, 
 and usually correct in the proportional relations of different 
 parts of a figure. 
 
 “ Perspective . — False. In a few modern j^ictures more or 
 less successful efforts to realise distance by fixing vanishing 
 and distance points have been made, but in these cases the 
 artist has received education from Europeans. Any paint- 
 ing in which the laws of perspective are observed is not a 
 specimen of Japanese art. Of the false perspective there 
 are two kinds, one in Avhich lines parallel in nature are 
 made to diverge as they recede, another in which they are 
 drawn parallel without any convergence towards a distance 
 point or point of sight. The impression of distance is 
 obtained by an absurd elevation of the horizontal line in 
 the Chinese School and its modifications, and by the inter- 
 position of conventional clouds to separate nearer from 
 more remote objects. 
 
 “ Chiaroscuro. — Absent. A false chiaroscuro is often 
 practised, and this by Mr. Jarves and Sir K. Alcock has 
 been accepted as the genuine element. Figures in silhou- 
 ette against a moonlit sky are often drawn by the Ukiyo-ye 
 
94 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. TV. 
 
 artist {vide frontispiece in Alcock), but the overstrained 
 imaginative descriptions of such efforts are mere literary- 
 decoration. 
 
 “ There are no shadows in any true Japanese pictures. 
 
 “ Colour . — From a decorative point of view the colour is 
 mostly to he highly praised, as the better Japanese painters 
 are masters of harmonies and contrasts ; hut the absence 
 of all the variety of tint produced by shadows, and direct 
 and reflected lights, prevents criticism from higher ground. 
 
 ‘‘ The older Japanese painting is chiefly caligraphic ; the 
 modern chiefly decorative. Caligraphy and painting were 
 in old times esteemed as equally important branches of 
 the fine arts, and in both China and Japan a single cha- 
 racter written by a noted caligrapher would often command 
 a higher price than the finest specimen of pictorial art. 
 
 “ The designs for metal work, ivory and wood carvings, 
 and porcelain and lacquer decoration, were almost invari- 
 ably supplied by noted painters of the Chinese, Kano, 
 Tosa, or Popular Schools ; hence all the important quali- 
 ties of Japanese art must be sought in its pictorial 
 manifestations.” 
 
 It may not be deemed altogether ])resumptuous for me 
 to express concurrence in the above opinions, and to add 
 to them the following remarks : First, as regards design, it 
 appears to me that the absence of novelty and power in the 
 exercise of this branch of pictorial art in the earlier schools 
 was due less to the absence of the necessary faculty than to 
 the rigid traditions and rules under which the life of Japan 
 was conducted for so many centuries. With a religion 
 founded on the worship of ancestors, and all the offices of 
 the state and of the church, so to speak, descending in 
 families, the evil effects of what we have known in our past 
 as patronage must have pressed heavily indeed upon all 
 rising artistic faculty in ancient and mediaeval Japan, for 
 the whole public life of the country was a system of patronage 
 in a highly organised, and therefore in a very oppressive, 
 form. In the sphere of literature, concerning which we have 
 naturally got to know more than of that of painting, evi- 
 
CHAr. IV.] 
 
 DBAWINO AND PAINTING. 
 
 95 
 
 dences of this restraining influence abound. Even under 
 lyeyasu and the succeeding Shoguns of his family — and under 
 him and them the genius of the country appears first to have 
 begun to expand freely — the labours of the greatest intellects 
 were pursued under more or less burdensome conditions, the 
 military and civil supremacy of the Tokugawas being of course 
 the primary consideration. When greater freedom became 
 possible, fertility of design appeared with it in a remarkable 
 degree, and in this fact, it seems to me, the capability of the 
 Japanese became vindicated. It was said by Opie that but for 
 the Greeks even beauty in nature itself would perhaps have 
 remained undiscovered until now, or so far misunderstood 
 that we might have preferred the artificially crippled form 
 of the Chinese, or the rank and vulgar redundance of a 
 Flemish female, say, to the Yenus of the Trihuna. And if we 
 for a moment restrict the phrase “ beauty in nature ” in the 
 manner to which his illustration points, viz. to beauty of 
 the human form, no opposition to his remark could be drawn 
 from Japanese art, for certainly human beauty has not been 
 at all worthily appreciated or illustrated in Japan. Nor 
 indeed could it be illustrated until quite recently (however 
 much it might be appreciated), for the principles of anatomy 
 were unknown in Japan a century ago.* In point of fact. 
 
 * 111 a paper on the early study of 
 Dutch in Japan, read at the Asiatic 
 Society there by K. Mitsukuri, a 
 native gentleman, the author gives 
 a very quaint and interesting account 
 of the introduction of anatomical 
 study at Nagasaki. It is derived 
 chiefly from the posthumous work 
 of a physician named Sugita Fusai, 
 who is referred to in the follow- 
 ing extract as the author. Mr. 
 Mitsukuri writes : “ Another friend 
 of the author, Nakagara Kiowan, 
 also a physician, serving under the 
 same Daimio as himself, being inter- 
 ested in the products of different 
 countiies, was a constant visitor at 
 the quarters of the Dutch whenever 
 
 they appeared in Yedo. It was in 
 1771, one day, the interpreter showed 
 him two Dutch books on anatomy 
 which were for sale. He took them 
 home, and among those who saw 
 them was our author. Sugita could 
 not, of course, read a word, but was 
 struck by the fact that the illustra- 
 tions of bones and organs represented 
 them to be very different from what 
 he had believed them to be. He 
 wished to buy the books, but was 
 too poor. Fortunately, however, 
 he succeeded in persuading a haro 
 (councillor), who by his influence 
 had the price paid from the public 
 treasury of the Daimio. Ever after 
 this, Sugita longed for the opportu- 
 
96 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IV. 
 
 the beauty of the human form has not hitherto made any 
 worthy impression on Japanese art. Woman has been kept 
 in an inferior position ; even her face has for the most part 
 been defaced by the shaving of the eyebrows and the black- 
 ening of the teeth ; her gait has been ruined by the clumsy 
 
 nity to test whicli of the theories 
 was correct. He had not to wait 
 very long. As good luck would have 
 it, he was invited, shortly afterward, 
 to a dissection which was to take 
 place in the execution grounds of 
 Kozukappara. Such a thing was of 
 rare occurrence at that time, and 
 Sugita was not the man to enjoy it 
 by himself. He knew that several 
 of his friends, among others Naka- 
 gawa Kiowan and Mayeda Kiotaku, 
 wonld be very glad to avail them- 
 selves of such an opportunity. He 
 must let them know, by all means ; 
 so he wrote to them, though it was 
 somewhat difficult to do this, and 
 appointed a place to meet next 
 morning. The anxiously expected 
 day came, and all were promptly at 
 the rendezvous. Mayeda had witli 
 him a Dutch book on anatomy, which 
 lie had bought in Nagasaki some 
 time before, and when they came to 
 examine it, it proved to be the same 
 as one of those which Sugita had 
 been fortunate enough to procure 
 lately. They were soon in Kozukap- 
 para, the famous execution grounds 
 near Asakusa. The hour for which 
 they had longed had actually come. 
 They were about to know whether 
 the things they and their fathers 
 had believed in were right or wrong. 
 I can imagine how their hearts 
 must have beat. The dissection was 
 performed by an old executioner, an 
 eia who had had some experience in 
 this line. The result is soon told. 
 They of course found that their theory 
 was entirely mistaken, and the way 
 in which the illustrations in their 
 
 new book coincided with real objects 
 raised their admiration to a high 
 degree. On their way back, Mayeda, 
 Nakagawa, and Sugita were together. 
 The events which had taken place 
 of late must have seemed to them as 
 if they had been prearranged. How 
 fortunate that Nakagawa should 
 happen to see those books, that 
 Sugita should be able to buy them, 
 that they should have a chance to 
 test their doubts ! And what a 
 coincidence that Mayeda should pos- 
 sess the same book ! A s they walked 
 home they talked earnestly. Shame 
 that they should have lived all their 
 lives as physicians, and not know, 
 till now, the construction of the 
 human body, on which the science 
 of medicine was necessarily founded ! 
 If they could understand the true 
 principle of anatomy from the real 
 objects they had just seen, if they 
 could translate this book which they 
 had obtained so luckily, they would 
 do an immense service to the country, 
 and wonld not have lived in this 
 world in vain. So they went on, 
 and when they separated for the 
 night they had come to the agree- 
 ment that they would try their best 
 to master the strange language, and 
 that as such things were the better 
 the sooner begun, they would com- 
 mence the very next day. They 
 had set before them a hard task, 
 but they were determined to accom- 
 plish it. As they parted, their haarts 
 were perhaps too full to speak, but 
 they must have shaken hands most 
 heartily, if such a thing had been 
 known then.” 
 
CHAP. IV.] 
 
 DRAWING AND PAINTING. 
 
 97 
 
 clogs she has had to wear, and by the artificial system of 
 turning the toes inward ; and the wonder is that so much 
 grace and charm, and beauty too, have survived so many ages 
 of depression and injury. For that many are beautiful, and 
 very beautiful, cannot he doubted by any one who has seen 
 much of the people. Still, the art of Japan has yet to develop 
 sympathy with that strength and symmetry and beauty of 
 the human form which gave to the arts of Greece their highest 
 and most enduring glory. But when we employ the phrase 
 “ beauty in nature ” in its broader and more lawful sense, we 
 have to say that without the aid of Greece — even in the 
 indirect and dubious way of transit through Indian and 
 Chinese art — Japan has developed a genuine and intense 
 love of natural objects, and in connection with them a power 
 of design both eminent and attractive. Not only in its 
 drawings and paintings, hut in other branches of art, the 
 Japanese have evinced a wonderful power of arranging 
 natural objects in such relations to each other as to give 
 grace and charm to the whole ; and the same thing is true 
 when we pass beyond the design of their works to the com- 
 position, And perhaps of all the divisions of art none fur- 
 nishes a truer or better test of sound artistic feeling than 
 this. No design, no drawing, no colouring, nor any other 
 quality can redeem a work of art if it he badly composed. 
 “ The composition,” as has been said, “ should appear the 
 true efflux of a mind so heated and full of the subject as to 
 lose all regard and attention to everything foreign and 
 although some may suppose that this fulness and fervour 
 of the mind can only he occasioned by striking scenes or 
 circumstances, they really are the provocations of the true 
 artist to the accomplishment of whatever object he sets 
 before himself. The composition of Japanese pictures is 
 usually notable for its pleasing effects. 
 
 What has been said of design is equally true of draicing, 
 as regards the absence of success in dealing with the human 
 form, and indeed with all the higher animal forms ; and 
 likewise as regards the true and great success with which 
 birds, flowers, and other such natural objects are rendered. 
 
 VOL. II. II 
 
98 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IV. 
 
 It is a real pleasure, and not a small one, to find oneself 
 among a group of Japanese artists, and witness the happy 
 mastery which they have acquired over the brush. At the 
 same time it is melancholy to consider within what limits 
 their arts even now move, and we cannot help hoping that 
 Art like Woman will in Japan speedily lay aside its con- 
 ventional aspect and movements, and proudly and joyously 
 display its nobler qualities. 
 
 But to be more technical : Professor Anderson’s remarks 
 upon Japanese perspective are in the main true, and those 
 who read them, and fancy they have observed indications of a 
 juster knowledge of perspective than seems compatible with 
 them, must bear in mind his admission respecting the effects 
 of European teaching in some cases. To me it seems likely 
 that those writers are correct who fancy they discern the 
 effects of Dutch influence in the Japanese pictures of the last 
 century or two. I agree with Sir Kutherford Alcock in 
 thinking that the curious example of perspective given in 
 Hokusai (and repeated by Sir Kutherford in his ‘ Art and 
 Art Industries of Japan ’) is probably derived from some 
 Dutch source. The following sentences of Sir Kutherford’s 
 are also worthy of careful consideration : “ If they learned 
 nothing from the Dutch, the question arises. Did the 
 Jesuit fathers [who, as we have seen, carried their ideas and 
 practice of Christianity into Japan] teach drawing in their 
 schools, or occupy themselves with the arts, as some of those 
 at the court of Pekin, in the reign of Kanghi, unquestionably 
 did ? The latter introduced, for instance, as we know, the 
 use of vignette medallions on the best China ware, never 
 prior to that adopted in the ornamentation of Chinese 
 porcelain. Then, again, some of the caricatures and illustra- 
 tions of popular customs, in all their grotesqueness and 
 coarseness, powerfully recall the Dutch paintings and 
 engravings of similar subjects in the sixteenth and seven- 
 teenth centuries, in the Hollen, Ostade, and Teniers style. 
 The Japanese themselves do not admit any tuition from either 
 of these sources, whether in perspective or the treatment of 
 subjects for the pencil. But when we reflect on the aptitude 
 
CHAP. IV.] 
 
 DBA WING AND PAINTING. 
 
 99 
 
 they have shown to adopt foreign ideas, and imitate European 
 arts and customs in the present day, we cannot help seeing 
 the possibility of their having borrowed something in the 
 way of art.” Answers, and clear and conclusive ones, to the 
 questions here raised can doubtless he obtained from a care- 
 ful chronological study of Japanese pictorial works, and it is 
 possible that Professor Anderson’s hook now in preparation 
 may furnish us with them. But whatever may he the truth of 
 this matter, and whether the power be native or derived, it 
 must he acknowledged that although Japanese perspective 
 is usually more or less false, it often comes wonderfully near 
 the truth, especially as regards aerial perspective. 
 
 The statement that “ there are no shadows in any true 
 Japanese picture ” is a very strong one, even when one 
 throws out of the category of Japanese pictures all those 
 modern productions which are manifestly influenced by 
 European teaching or example. It is nevertheless perfectly 
 true, at least to this extent, that the rules upon which 
 chiaroscuro is produced by European artists are entirely un- 
 known to the artists of Japan. They have known absolutely 
 nothing of such rules ; while, I need hardly say, such 
 developments of chiaroscuro as Leonardo’s principle of 
 central radiance is even farther from the scope of Japanese 
 conception. Still, I cannot hut feel that it would be in- 
 correct to say either of Japanese or of Chinese art proper 
 that light and shade are absolutely unknown to it. This 
 has often been freely alleged, and was generally accepted as 
 true until recent times ; but the late Mr. Wornum, who 
 appears to have seen hut little more of Chinese art than an 
 exhibition at Hyde Park Corner, nevertheless contradicted 
 some of the academy professors on the point, and said the 
 Chinese had made “ considerable progress in light and 
 shade.” As a general rule, however, the chiaroscuro of 
 Europe has no parallel in the art of Japan. 
 
 As regards colour^ Professor Anderson’s statement of the 
 case seems to me to be perfectly correct. All those changes 
 of tint and tone which result from gradations of light and 
 shade are wanting ; and as a consequence it is chiefly for its 
 
 H 2 
 
100 
 
 JAFAN. 
 
 [chap. jy . 
 
 decorative merit that the Japanese employment of colour is 
 valuable and instructive. But it cannot be denied that, 
 subject to the above limitations, Japanese artists are great 
 masters of the art of colouring, and masters after a fashion 
 mostly, if not wholly, their own. Mr. J. Leighton (quoted 
 by Alcock) has borne ample tribute to this great merit of 
 theirs, claiming for the Japanese a subdued and refined style 
 superior to that of the Chinese. “ I do not wish you to 
 understand,” he says, “ that the Japanese artists do not use 
 bright colours, for few men know their value better ; but 
 what I desire to convey is that they use them judiciously, 
 and in comparatively small proportions, cleverly supporting 
 and contrasting them with their secondaries, and other 
 compound colours, which they use in grounds and large 
 masses generally.” Sir Eutherford Alcock, I am pleased to 
 see, does ready justice to the fine Japanese sense of harmony 
 and tone in colours, himself evidently enjoying equally in 
 their way both the splendour and the quieter beauty of their 
 effects. Sir Eutherford, like myself, delights in bright 
 colours, and is not ashamed to own it. “A relative ar- 
 rangement of tints will do much to produce harmony,” he 
 says, “ but will scarcely satisfy a colourist who loves masses 
 of the brightest hues, such as in a sunny clime are a per- 
 petual feast to the eye, and a delight to the sense which 
 revels in profusion. The Eoman scarf, or the handkerchief 
 of the contadina, the bright coloured sash of the Andalusian, 
 and the glowing scarlets and gold of the Indian bazaars, are 
 all living evidences of an innate sense of the beauty of bright 
 and pure colours. We have not in England the sun of these 
 southern and eastern climes, which gives to the skies and 
 mountains, to trees, birds, and fiowers, a glory of such 
 brightness that colour of the most vivid and brilliant hues 
 forms, by daily and hourly association, a needful element in 
 the life of the people.” 
 
 Some objects are continually recurring in the pictorial as 
 in the other arts of Japan. Among natural objects are the 
 blossoms of the plum, the cherry, the peach, and the apricot ; 
 the pine-tree ; the Pauloumia Imj)erialis, a straight-growing 
 
CHAP. IV.] 
 
 DU AWING AND FAINTING. 
 
 101 
 
 tree with large leaves (as an emblem of rectitude) ; the flower- 
 ing peony, the bamboo, the willow, the maple, and the chry- 
 santhemum ; also various birds, most frequently the stork, the 
 wild duck, and the eagle ; and, perhaps more commonly than 
 anything else, the glorious and sacred mountain of Fuji-san, 
 or Fuji-yama. Numerous striking historical characters and 
 incidents likewise are often repeated by artists. Some 
 objects frequently recur in association, the following ex- 
 amples of which I take from Mr. Pfoundes’s collection of 
 notes entitled ‘ Fu so Mimi Bukuro.’ The pine-tree and 
 stork ; both are emblems of longevity : this design is very 
 frequently used in the embroidery of robes presented to 
 new-born babes. The peony and Chinese Lion ; the peony 
 is usually sketched on large articles, such as screens at the 
 entrances of temples, on panels, ceilings, etc. The bamboo 
 and sparrow, both being of a mild and gentle nature — 
 a design often seen in embroidery, and on fans and 
 screens. The willow and marten I or swallow) ; the willow 
 waves in the breeze, and the swallow sways to and fro — a 
 favourite design for fans, etc. The cherry and pheasant ; the 
 cherry, cultivated solely for its bloom, is jointly named with 
 the “ gorgeously plumed pheasant.” The plum-tree (in Japan 
 “ the poet’s favourite tree ”) is associated with the Japanese 
 nightingale (the uguisu). This combination is a very common 
 design, the plum-tree having, from a verse written by Wani in 
 honour of the ancient and popular emperor Kintoku, become 
 associated with poetry, and the uguisu being the poet of the 
 woods. “ ‘ Send forth your fragrance upon the eastern winds, 
 0 flowers of the plum-tree ! and do not forget the spring, 
 because of the absence of the sun,’ cries a native poet. Not 
 unfrequently does one see the plum-tree stand all leafless in 
 the snow, but adorned with white blossoms, like a bride before 
 the altar. It bursts into clouds of fragrance and beauty in 
 February, the leaves appearing later ” (Griffis). 
 
 Another frequent design is that of a bird flying across the 
 crescent moon. This is “ the moon and the cuckoo,” and 
 springs from a legend of the twelfth century. About 1153 a.i). 
 the Mikado fell sick, being nightly stricken with a horrible 
 
102 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IV. 
 
 nightmare. • It was discovered that a dark cloud moved from 
 over a grove of trees and rested upon the imperial residence, 
 two fiery orbs shining out from it. The priests failing by 
 their prayers to drive away the brooding demon, one Yorimasa 
 undertook to slay it, and after successive watching at lengths 
 breathed a prayer to the great god Hachiman, and added to 
 his prayer (what the orthodox priests had omitted) a heavy 
 arrow from his well-bent how. The arrow, or the prayer, or 
 both, brought the monster down, and Yorimasa made his 
 work complete by nine plunges of his sword, each time to the 
 hilt. The demon thus slain was formidable enough to 
 account for its brooding dangerously even over the breast of 
 an emperor, for it had an ape-like head, the body and claws 
 of a tiger, and a tail that was itself a huge and venomous 
 serpent. It was called Nuye, from its cry resembling that of a 
 bird of this name. The emperor, wishing to reward Yorimasa, 
 gave him a celebrated sword called SJiishi no 0 (the king of 
 wild hoars). Besides, knowing that he secretly loved Ayame * 
 no Maye, and that the love was returned, he bestowed her 
 on Yorimasa. The noble who was appointed to present the 
 sword to Yorimasa, knowing his reputation as a poet as well 
 as a brave man, bethought him of trying a verse after the 
 Zo-to style, and just at the moment a hototogisu (cuckoo) was 
 heard, giving him the “ key-note ” of his verse, the Icami no 
 Jvii of three lines of five, seven, and five syllables. 
 
 Eo-to-to-gi-su 
 
 Na-o mo Tcu-mo i ni 
 
 1-gu-ru kana, 
 
 and immediately Yorimasa answered him with the following 
 sliimo no ku of two lines of seven syllables each — 
 
 Yumi ha-ri tsu-ki no 
 A-rv, ni ma-ka-se-te 
 
 * A yarae, the blossom of the CVtZrt- was only used for the daughters of 
 mus aromaticus, or tlowering sweet men of rank. — See Pfoiindes’s ‘Fu 
 
 flag. Female names were usually so IMimi Bukuro,’ from which, as I 
 
 derived from flowers. Maye is the have i)reviously said, these ilhistra- 
 
 ancient affix to female names. Ilime tious are taken. 
 
CHA.P. IV.] 
 
 DB AWING AND PAINTING. 
 
 103 
 
 — making the complete lionlca of thirty-one syllables. And his 
 readiness and wit increased his reputation as a scholar and 
 a soldier. In this way the moon {tsuld) became associated for 
 ever with the cuckoo. But in order to fully understand the 
 connection, the qualified reader must note the double mean- 
 ing of the verse, which it is impossible to render into English. 
 It reads one way — 
 
 “ The liototogisu 
 Above the clouds — 
 
 How does it mount? 
 
 The waning moon 
 Sets not at will.” 
 
 But as it alludes to Yorimasa’s elevation to imperial favour, 
 there is the concealed meaning — 
 
 “Like the cuckoo 
 So high to soar, 
 
 How is it so? 
 
 Only my bow I bent, 
 
 That only sent the shaft.”* 
 
 Geese and rushes are often coupled together, it being 
 believed that wild geese, on making long flights, carry in 
 their beaks rushes which they drop upon water, and then 
 alight upon them to rest. The chrysanthemum and the fox 
 are drawn together in reference to one of the many fox- 
 myths which abound in Japan. The story goes that a royal 
 prince was bewitched by a fox in the shape of a damsel, who 
 became his mistress. One day she fell asleep in a bed of 
 chrysanthemums, resuming her normal shape, and while 
 thus lying was shot at by her lover, whose arrow smote the 
 creature in the forehead. On afterwards finding his sweet- 
 heart with a wound in the temple, he discovered her true 
 
 * “ The play on words in the first 
 portion is only alluding to the soar- 
 ing of the bird and comparing it to 
 Yorimasa’s elevation, the real com- 
 parison and readily improvised verse 
 inciting the native admiration. In 
 the second portion, the allusion to 
 
 the bow-like shape of the waning 
 moon and its setting, the play is on 
 the word tsuld no, moon, or one’s own 
 will — on Yumi liari, to bend a bow 
 — the shape of the waning moon — 
 and Aril, to set (as the moon sets) — 
 or to send a shaft.’’ — Pfoundes. 
 
104 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IV ^ 
 
 character. The bamboo and the tiger are united, because 
 the tiger fears the elephant, and therefore hides in the 
 bamboo jungle. Peach-trees and oxen are often coupled ; 
 there is a Chinese saying, “ Turn the horse loose on the 
 flower-covered mountain, and the ox into the peach orchard.” 
 A dragon is often shown crossing the summit of Fuji-yama 
 on the clouds, a small snake having become the dragon ; so 
 an abject person sometimes becomes an exalted one, rising to 
 a great height, and easily surmounting the greatest obstacles : 
 the design is therefore an emblem of success in life. 
 
 I must conclude this chapter by expressing my conviction 
 that under the new order of things now prevailing in Japan, 
 and more especially on account of the great intercourse 
 between their country and Europe, Japanese artists will 
 make extraordinary strides in the mastery of European art, 
 and will combine with it elements of power and beauty peculiar 
 to themselves. Mr. Jarves and Sir Eutherford Alcock concur, 
 apparently, in thinking that at present Japanese artists 
 “ have a technical mastery of other means, not known to 
 genre and landscape painters in Europe, by which they 
 produce effects that place a scene before the eyes in a way to 
 fill the imagination with a vision of things only suggested 
 by the pencil.” I agree with them, for I find no other 
 explanation of the extraordinary pleasure which one experi- 
 ences alike in seeing the Japanese artist dashing his won- 
 drously effective strokes upon his paper or silk, and in turning 
 over the pages of a hook embodying the results of his 
 labour. I have seen the French Tissot, the Neapolitan 
 Martino, the Eussian Aivasovsky, and some of our own artists 
 wielding their cunning pencils with swift and startling 
 effect ; hut no European that I know rivals the native of 
 Japan in artistic legerdemain. From the blending of his 
 traditional and mystic skill with the art familiar to ourselves, 
 we may justly expect to gather rich results hereafter. 
 
1'iiE Ascendikg Dragon. 
 
 To face page \0 A, Vol.II. 
 

 
( 105 ) 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 PROVEKBS AND PHRASES OP THE PEOPLE. 
 
 Many proverbs and proverbial sayings — Expressions for what is impossible 
 — Injunctions for avoiding the appearance of evil. 
 
 The proverbs and phrases current among a people reflect 
 their character and modes of thought, and in so reflecting 
 them tend to increase their permanence. Mr. Pfonndes, in 
 his ‘ Notes,’ Herr Knohloch, in the ‘ Transactions of the 
 German Society of Japan,’ and Mr. Grifiis, have all helped 
 to bring a number of Japanese proverbs and sayings into 
 an accessible form, and from their collections I select the 
 following, observing that in many of them there is in the 
 original a play upon words which cannot be translated, but 
 which sharpens the point of the phrase to the native. 
 
 Impossibility is a good reason. 
 
 Open lips make cold teeth. 
 
 The mouth is the door of mischief. 
 
 An ugly woman avoids the looking-glass. 
 
 The fox who borrows strength of the tiger. 
 
 To water your own field. 
 
 Life is a light in the wind. 
 
 To number the years of a dead child ; i.e. probably, to do 
 something that is quite useless. 
 
 Illnesses come through the mouth. 
 
 To give a sail to ability ; i.e. to assist talent. 
 
 Even the monkey falls from the tree. 
 
 To cut a stick after the fight. 
 
106 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. V. 
 
 Of whom we speak, his is the shadow ; i.e. he of whom we 
 speak throws his shadow upon us. 
 
 Willow twigs dig no snow. 
 
 Daughters-in-law become mothers-in-law; i.e. probably, 
 the young and agreeable become old and disagreeable. 
 
 Prophets know nothing about themselves. 
 
 Covetous about one mori (a small coin), and neglectful of 
 a hundred. 
 
 Flowers on a dead tree. 
 
 The devil’s ‘‘ Help, 0 holy Buddha ! ” i.e. like the devil 
 crying to Buddha for help. 
 
 To blow away the hair and find a wound. 
 
 Like trying to seize a tai (a sort of perch) ; i.e. trying to 
 seize an eel. 
 
 Indolence is a powerful enemy. 
 
 To give something more to a thief ; i.e. to give your 
 cloak to the stealer of your coat. 
 
 To adapt the sermon to the hearers. 
 
 Like going into the fire with an armful of bamboos. 
 
 To submit is victory. 
 
 A fallen blossom does not return to the twig. 
 
 Sufficient dust wdll make a mountain. 
 
 Even the fool has his art. 
 
 The magnet can attract iron but not stone. 
 
 Adapt yourself to the place you are in. 
 
 Too much courtesy is discourtesy. 
 
 He who holds a tiger brings trouble on himself. 
 
 The bat of a village without birds ; as we say, in the 
 company of the blind the one-eyed are kings. 
 
 The sea-eagle has hatched a falcon. 
 
 Many captains, and the ship goes on to the rocks. 
 
 Even two leaves of the spendan give forth perfume. 
 
CHAP. V.] POFULAR FROVEEBS AND F1IRA8ES, 
 
 107 
 
 The heart is the same at sixty as at three. 
 
 The snakes know the paths of the dsha (a large species of 
 snake). 
 
 No fish in clear water. 
 
 One crane’s voice is better than (the chirping of) a 
 thousand sparrows. 
 
 A drunkard cannot deny (conceal) his real character. 
 
 Like pushing a stone with an egg. 
 
 The heart is better than a beautiful face ; i.e. to have a 
 heart is better than to have a beautiful face. 
 
 Kubbing salt into a wound; i.e. adding insult to injury. 
 Listening to a child you fall over a precipice ; i.e. attend- 
 ing to trifles and neglecting more important matters. 
 
 Tears even in the devil’s eyes. 
 
 Poking out the eye with an insignificant twig. 
 
 Overcome in words, in truth victorious. 
 
 Pinch yourself and know how others feel. 
 
 The dog bites the hand that caresses it. 
 
 To reach the cub you must enter the tiger’s den. 
 
 • 
 
 The stomach will not allow itself to change places with 
 the back. 
 
 Burnt cheeks do not fear the sun. 
 
 No door can be made for the mouth. 
 
 Beware of beautiful women as you would of red pepper. 
 
 The crows laugh at tales that are three years old; i.e. 
 they are foolish enough to be amused with anything. 
 
 To fall seven times, to stand the eighth. 
 
 In evil times the hero appears. 
 
 To buy misfortune at market. 
 
 A firebrand is easily kindled. 
 
 The frog in the well knows nothing of the high seas. 
 
 Too much done is nothing done. 
 
108 
 
 JAPAN 
 
 [chap. V. 
 
 Like sitting a child alone on a well. 
 
 To look at the heavens through a cane tube ; i.e. to take 
 a limited view of great things. 
 
 Like a fox on horseback. 
 
 No standing in the w’orld without stooping. 
 
 No art against deceit. 
 
 He who touches vermilion becomes red. 
 
 He who breaks through a thicket disturbs the snakes. 
 Poke a cane-brake, and a snake will sli|) out. 
 
 The absent get farther off every day. 
 
 Unpolished jewels do not shine. 
 
 To be thirsty and dig a well ; i.e. huge exertions to 
 satisfy a trifling want. 
 
 Bearing wood to the flames. 
 
 The blind man does not fear a snake. 
 
 Like a wolf in priest’s clothing. 
 
 To steal a bell with your ears covered; i.e. to affect to 
 dislike something whilst taking it. 
 
 To give wings to a tiger. 
 
 On the road a horse would eat a marsh-mallow ; i.e. too 
 hungry to he dainty. 
 
 Ice comes from water, hut is colder than water. 
 Egg-plants do not grow from melon-seeds. 
 
 A deserter is terrified even by the tzmzuhe ears (a kind of 
 long grass). 
 
 To talk to the crows of the white heron (white animals are 
 often held sacred in Japan). 
 
 For travelling, a companion ; for the world, kindness. 
 Hairs even on a bald head. 
 
 Poverty cannot outrun industry. 
 
 Lanterns and hells ; may perhaps he read as meaning two 
 different means to the same end, namely, the warning 
 
CHAP. V.] POPULAR PROVERBS AND PHRASES. 
 
 109 
 
 travellers that a vehicle is approaching. Both articles 
 are employed thus in Japan. 
 
 No escape from the nets of heaven. 
 
 To give honey to eat ; to flatter ; or possibly equivalent to 
 “ sending you ruffles when wanting a shirt.” 
 
 The bird that flies upwards does not ruffle the water. 
 People that are hated strut about the world. 
 
 Use the stick soon and save a fall. 
 
 Like seeking for fish on a tree. 
 
 After three years even an evil becomes a necessity ; i.e. 
 habit is everything. 
 
 Habit has more weight than instruction. 
 
 Eagerness is loss ; i.e. most haste worst speed. 
 
 A novice does not at once become a superior. 
 
 Poverty leads to theft. 
 
 Good medicine tastes bitter. 
 
 Dumplings are better than flowers. 
 
 Even a new shoe will not make a hat ; i.e. no use to 
 try improper means. 
 
 Great words little deeds. 
 
 A friend at hand is better than relatives at a distance. 
 
 A devil in the heart (an evil conscience) torments the 
 body. 
 
 The hand goes to the itching spot. 
 
 A clever falcon hides his talons. 
 
 When the tiger is dead, spare his skin. 
 
 Pleasure is the germ of sorrow. 
 
 To hide the sword with a smile. 
 
 If dogs go about they must expect the stick. 
 
 Before argument, proof. 
 
 Hated children fear not the world. 
 
 Thankless labour brings fatigue. 
 
110 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [cHAr. V. 
 
 To speak loud, and then purse the lips. (It is useless to 
 shut the mouth after shouting out.) 
 
 Moral people beget many children ; probably honest 
 bodies get the heaviest loads thrown upon them by the 
 cunning. 
 
 Money thrown after thieves ; equivalent to throwing good 
 money after bad. 
 
 Emerald and crystal are known by their sheen. 
 
 Old people led by their children. 
 
 For a broken pot a mended lid ; or nothing is so bad that 
 there is not some use for it. Even an unprepossessing 
 woman finds her mate. 
 
 Lepers envious of those with sores. 
 
 The first-born comes with most difiiculty. 
 
 Be careful to be careful. 
 
 Crying faces wasps sting; or, misfortune seldom comes 
 singly. 
 
 After pleasure there is grief. 
 
 If falsehood takes the road, truth hides. 
 
 Truth cometh out of falsehood ; or, truth comes to the 
 surface. 
 
 Do you know how to boil potatoes ? Used in addressing 
 stupid or clumsy people when they commit some foolish 
 mistake. 
 
 After the swallowing the scalding is forgotten ; it might 
 be paraphrased, danger past is laughed at. 
 
 A demon with a club. Doubly frightful. 
 
 Cheaply bought, money lost. 
 
 To wish to send a letter, but not being a writer. When 
 one wishes to excuse oneself on the ground of inability 
 or want of opportunity. 
 
 Children are a burden on one’s shoulders, past, present, and 
 future. 
 
CHAP. V.] POPULAR PROVERBS AND PHRASES. 
 
 Ill 
 
 To my own experience lioist the sail, meaning ‘‘ to ride 
 one’s own hobby.” 
 
 The master’s favourite red cap. (The great man’s will 
 must be humoured.) 
 
 To hide the head but not hide the tail. 
 
 Hearing of Paradise and seeing Hades. 
 
 Carelessness is great danger; literally, oil exhausted, a 
 great danger. 
 
 Ignorance bliss. 
 
 Providence is a strange thing ; apparently in the sense of 
 “ Chance brings together queer couples.” 
 
 The poor have no leisure. 
 
 Those who know the ropes do most hauling. 
 
 Kio no ]jume, Osaka no yume — ‘‘ A dream of Kioto a dream 
 of Osaka.” Building castles in the air. 
 
 Child-bearing is easier than child-tending. 
 
 If in haste go round. 
 
 The spawn of frogs will become but frogs. 
 
 By searching the old, learn the new. 
 
 More words, less sense. 
 
 Clever preacher, short sermon. 
 
 Who steals money is killed, who steals a country is a king. 
 
 Like learning to swim in a field. 
 
 The gods sit on the brow of the just. 
 
 Send abroad (or from you) the child you love most. 
 
 Making an idol does not give it a soul. 
 
 Live under your own hat. 
 
 A (wife’s) tongue, three inches long, can kill a man six feet 
 high. 
 
 The heron rises from the stream without stirring up the 
 mud. 
 
 If you curse any one, look out for two graves. “ Curses, 
 like chickens, come home to roost.” 
 
112 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [CJIAI*. 
 
 There is no teacher of Japanese poetry. (Foeta nascitM\ 
 non jit.) 
 
 Good doctrine needs no miracle. 
 
 Kegard an old man as thy father. 
 
 Expressions for what is impossible : — 
 
 To build a bridge to the clouds. 
 
 To throw a stone at the sun. 
 
 To disperse a fog with a fan. 
 
 To bale the ocean with the hand. 
 
 Injunctions for avoiding the appearance of evil : — 
 
 Don’t wipe your shoes in a melon patch. 
 
 Don’t handle your cap when passing under a pear-tree. 
 Don’t stay long when the husband is not at home. 
 
 ANCIENT BURIAL-PLACE OF AN EMPEllOR. 
 
( 113 ) 
 
 CHAPTEK VI. 
 
 THE INLAND SEA AND NAGASAKI. 
 
 Departure from Yokohama in the Meiji Maru — The lighthouse of Oosima 
 — Precautions against earthquakes — A natural breakwater — Kohd and 
 Hiogo — Waterfalls — Temples and shrines — The club at Kobe — Scenery 
 of the Inland Sea — The hay and castle of Mihara — A beautiful dawn — 
 Takahara— The ancient temples ofMiyajima— A torii in the sea — 
 Sacred deer and monkeys — The Shinto shrines — Origin of the temple — 
 A homeless goddess — A rebellion and a revenge — Shimonoseki — The 
 straits of that name — The attack of the combined squadrons in 1864 — 
 An indemnity extorted by the aggressors — The town of Shimonoseki 
 — A legend of its temple — A change of weather — Nagasaki harbour 
 — One Pine-tree House — A singular imperial salute — The coal-mines of 
 Takashima — Government establishments — A Church missionary — The 
 fatal isle of Pappenherg — Return trip through the Inland Sea — The 
 ancient city of Osaka — Its historic associations. 
 
 Having spent, and well and busily spent, nearly a month in 
 tlie capital of Japan, it was next arranged for us to make a 
 trip through the most important parts of the country, and on 
 Wednesday, February 5, soon after midday, we left Tokio 
 for Yokohama, and before three had embarked on board the 
 twin-screw steamship Meiji Maru, belonging to the light- 
 house department of the Japanese government. The de- 
 parture of this commodious and fast government steamer 
 upon lighthouse duty in the Inland Sea and on the west and 
 south coasts, with Mr. McKitchie, the government engineer- 
 in-chief of the department, on board, was a convenient 
 opportunity for facilitating our visit to the interior, and 
 a more satisfactory one to me than the appropriation of a 
 special steamer for the purpose, which had been contem- 
 plated. By taking passage in this vessel, when engaged 
 upon her periodical visit to the lighthouses, I was enabled to 
 
 VOL. II. ' I 
 
114 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VI. 
 
 view the coast more minutely, both outside in the Pacific, 
 and in the Inland and Japan Seas ; to visit some of the light- 
 houses and acquaint myself with their construction and 
 working arrangements, in company with the superintending 
 engineer ; and at the same time to visit Kobe, Hiogo, 
 Miramar, Miyajima, Shimonoseki, and Nagasaki without 
 much expenditure of time, owing to the high speed of the 
 Meiji Maru. It was arranged for his excellency Admiral 
 Kawamura also to make this inland journey, as he had public 
 business to transact at several of the ports and other places 
 which lay on our route. His excellency Enouye (then 
 minister of public works), whom the lighthouse department 
 was under, was good enough to see us comfortably berthed on 
 board the Meiji, and after he had taken leave of us, at three 
 o’clock, we steamed down the Bay of Yedo, passing on our 
 way the P. and 0. steamer China, just arriving from Hong 
 Kong, carrying the English and Continental mail into Japan. 
 The Meiji is commanded by an accomplished English officer. 
 Captain Peters, whom I had had the pleasure of knowing a 
 little in England, and who by his intimate acquaintance with 
 the coast, the tides, set of sea, etc., was able to spare us in 
 the first night and throughout our trip with him much of 
 that inconvenience which better sailors than I can pre- 
 tend to be confess to experiencing when their ship is very 
 uncertain how to keep upright, and very violent in its 
 endeavours to do so.* The first lighthouse to be visited was 
 
 * Owing perhaps to a little per- 
 versity of my own, and also to a trap 
 being laid for me by the unwisdom 
 of a servant (and how much more 
 we all suffer from want of sense 
 in others than from any intended 
 wrongs !), I nevertheless contrived to 
 get an ugly fall during the first 
 night. Having persisted in selecting 
 an upper bunk to sleep in, and 
 vaulted into it with as much agility 
 as was available, a servant heedlessly 
 threw a fur-lined coat over the rail 
 of the bunk below ; consequently, in 
 
 alighting afterwards from my eleva- 
 tion, my foot slipped over the fur as 
 soon as my weight came upon it, and 
 I fell upon the edge of the upper 
 bunk, and thence to the deck. The 
 fall was apparently a trifling one, 
 and made no mark, but I became 
 very sick and ill for a time, and a 
 rib must have been badly bruised, as 
 I felt so much pain afterwards that I 
 had to take medical advice at Naga- 
 saki, and as I write these lines, seven 
 weeks after the fall, I still feel the 
 effects. 
 
CHAP. VI.] THE INLAND SEA AND NAGASAKI. 
 
 115 
 
 that situated on the eastern point of the island of Oosima, off 
 the peninsula of Kii. The island is spelt Oshima on the 
 map of Mr. Brunton (who preceded Mr. McEitchie in his 
 office), and Oosima in the Nautical Pocket Manual published 
 in Shanghai, the name of the light being given in the latter 
 as Kashinosaki. It is a white catoptric light, of the second 
 order, revolving every half-minute, and is visible for eighteen 
 miles. There is nothing to be said of our passage to Oosima, 
 except that the evening after our departure was fair ; that 
 the sacred Mount Fuji was a splendid and impressive feature 
 in the shifting picture ; that after we had cleared the Bay of 
 Tokio and the Sagami Sea we had nothing but the sea 
 between us and Australia ; and that we reached our anchor- 
 age inside the island we were bound for soon after midday 
 of the 6th. The day' was singularly fine and warm, and we 
 landed, at a very difficult landing-place, upon an isle so 
 pleasant that one began to think of the “ Lotus-eaters ” — 
 
 “In the afternoon they came unto a land, 
 
 In which it seemed always afternoon.” 
 
 It was curious to observe that in anticipation of earth- 
 quakes the lighting machinery of the lighthouse was all 
 supported upon a bed-plate resting on three spheres, partly 
 to allow the upper portion to slide or roll upon the lower, 
 and partly on the same principle as that which induced Sir 
 Joseph Whitworth to support upon three points his “ true 
 planes,” and his own billiard table which he has in his 
 Manchester residence, viz. the mathematical principle that a 
 plane surface can be passed through any three points in 
 space, and therefore when a plane surface rests upon three 
 points only either or all of those points can change its position 
 without distorting the surface. The arrangement as adapted 
 to the English-built lighthouse at Oosima is perfectly sound 
 in principle, but even in Japan earthquakes of sufficient 
 violence to upset lighthouse apparatus are so unfrequent 
 that I strongly suspect the bed would usually be found 
 resting upon the additional supports which are intended for 
 use when men are moving about the light -machinery for 
 
 I 2 
 
116 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VI. 
 
 cleaning and other purposes. Still when a violent earth- 
 quake does come, and they do come at these parts of the 
 country as we have seen, it will be well if the light is found 
 poised on its spheres.* 
 
 I have elsewhere spoken of earthquakes at some length, 
 but this is a suitable place for mentioning what happened 
 twenty-five years ago near this spot — off the peninsula of 
 Idzu, which was passed on the previous evening. On a hay 
 at the end of that peninsula, and inside Kock Island, is the 
 town of Shimoda, which had been opened as a foreign port. 
 A great earthquake came, and with it tidal waves and sub- 
 sidiary waves of such a nature that the Eussian frigate 
 Diana, which was lying there, was spun round forty-three 
 times in thirty minutes, as previously stated, and was thrown 
 high and dry, a useless wreck, at the end of the revolutionary 
 period ! This was in 1854, and we are informed that this 
 same earthquake shook and injured the country for some 
 hundreds of miles along this south-eastern part of Japan. 
 It was in the next year that the great earthquake at Yedo 
 
 * Since writing the above I have 
 consulted a paper on “the Japan 
 lights ” read at the Institution of 
 Civil Engineers by Mr. Brunton, C.E., 
 by whom many of them were estab- 
 lished, and find that he docs not 
 think altogether favourably of the 
 plan adopted. He finds that while 
 the free motion of the upper over the 
 lower part of a structure may neutral- 
 ise the effects of an earthquake 
 shock, it at other times has incon- 
 venient results. A person stepping 
 on one of the ‘‘ aseismatic ” tables, for 
 the purpose of trimming or cleaning 
 the lamps, causes the upper part to 
 roll to such an extent that the lamps 
 become deranged, and in the case of 
 revolving lights the regular motion 
 of the clock-work is interfered with. 
 To remedy these defects Messrs. 
 Stevenson introduced an arrangement 
 of vertical springs, but it w'as only 
 partially successful. In the paper 
 
 referred to Mr. Brunton discusses — 
 as he and others had previously done 
 at the Asiatic Society in Japan — the 
 best mode of constructing buildings 
 to resist earthquakes ; and gives a 
 full and most interesting account of 
 the lighthouse system of Japan — one 
 of the best in the world, and continu- 
 ally undergoing extension. An im- 
 portant discussion followed, in which 
 Messrs. Stevenson gave an instance of 
 considerable damage being done by 
 an earthquake to the Sagami (Japan) 
 lights in consequence of their aseis- 
 matic arrangement being put out of 
 working order. The appamtus ap- 
 pears to have been caught by the 
 earthquake in exactly the state in 
 which, as stated in the text, I 
 anticij^atcd on the spot (at Oshima) 
 it would be found. — See Proceedings 
 of the Institution of Civil Engineers, 
 vol. xlvii. Session 1876-77, pt. 1. 
 
CHAP. VI.] 
 
 THE INLAND SEA AND NAGASAKI. 
 
 117 
 
 (now Tokio) took place ; and in fourteen months of 1854-55 
 no less than eight hundred and seventeen shocks were 
 experienced. 
 
 We left Oosima before three, steaming out at the western 
 end of the island, and passing a remarkable series of rocks 
 running a mile out from the shore, and forming an almost 
 continuous natural breakwater. ,We now rounded the 
 southernmost point of the province of Kii, passing the high 
 light of Siwomi-saki, which is a fine fixed light of the first 
 order, and steamed up between Kii and Awa, through the 
 Isumi Strait, past the island of Tomagashima, on the western 
 extremity of which is another fixed white light (third order), 
 extremely well placed. We anchored before midnight in 
 the harbour of Kobe. Kain had come on at sunset, and the 
 night had continued wet, but next morning clear, warm sun- 
 shine streamed over the pretty European-looking town of Kobe 
 (one of the places open to foreign trade), and over the hills 
 beyond. Hiogo, which is a genuine old Japanese town, 
 practically adjoins Kobe, and is continuous with it, the road 
 leading through them having to surmount one of those river 
 beds which are embanked considerably above the level of 
 the adjacent country, and of which we afterwards saw so 
 many. At anchor in Kobe, besides a large number of merchant 
 craft, was the large iron-belted Japanese corvette Hi-yei, 
 which I had the honour to design and see built in England 
 for his majesty the Mikado ; and likewise H.M. surveying 
 ship Stjlvia and gun-vessel Lihj, The captain of the Hi yei 
 came to fetch us, and we proceeded to his ship, which had 
 just returned from Korea, and which was minutely inspected 
 by his excellency the minister of marine. H.M.S. Sylvia 
 is commanded by Captain Aldrich, who so much distinguished 
 himself in the sledging work of our recent North Pole Ex- 
 pedition. I was unable, from want of time, to visit his ship 
 (which I myself had had fitted at Woolwich as a surveying 
 vessel many years ago), but I had the pleasure of calling on 
 Captain and Mrs. Aldrich on shore later in the day. During 
 the forenoon we drove to the famous waterfalls two or three 
 miles out of the town, or rather to the base of the hills down 
 
118 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VI. 
 
 which they drop, having then a delightful climb through 
 lovely scenery of hill, wood, and stream to the falls them- 
 selves. 
 
 All the way up are scattered tea-houses, with one more 
 or less pretty girl at least to each. Nor is the place 
 wanting in the conveniences of worship, for there are little 
 temples and gods and shrines sufficient in number for all 
 reasonable people. We stopped at one of these on the way 
 down, where the goddess Kwannon was surrounded by small 
 gilt figures, just as the Virgin is surrounded by angels of 
 music in Fra Angelica’s famous picture in the Uffizi Palace, 
 Kwannon’s angels and the Virgin’s being of about the same 
 size. There were other gods about this building, and we hap- 
 pened to be present at the time when numerous cups of rice 
 were being offered upon the altar by an old woman attendant. 
 There was a box for voluntary subscriptions. I could not 
 quite understand this temple, as no priests were visible, 
 and there was a business-like money-making look about the 
 arrangements which gave the whole thing the appearance 
 of a purely commercial speculation. There were several 
 Japanese gentlemen with us, but none of them seemed to 
 understand any more about it than I did ; one of them 
 suggested, however, that the proprietors were probably 
 priests, and that may have been the true explanation of the 
 matter. At any rate there were the gods and the oppor- 
 tunities for worshipping and subscribing all complete. 
 
 In the afternoon we visited the great Shinto temple of this 
 place, and took a drive through and about Hiogo, this being 
 the first purely Japanese country town of large size that 
 we had yet visited. In the evening after dinner, by the kind- 
 ness of Mr. McEitchie, we were introduced to the club, where 
 was an abundance of English newspapers, and an excellent 
 billiard-room with several good billiard- tables. At 11 p.m. 
 we re-embarked in the Meiji Maru by means of the Ili-yei’s 
 boats, and at midnight the anchor was weighed and we 
 were under steam again for the Harima Nada, which may be 
 called the second part of the Inland Sea going westward, the 
 first part being the Idzunii Nada, upon which Kobe and 
 
CHAP. VI.] THE INLAND SEA AND NAGASAKI. 
 
 119 
 
 Hiogo are situated. The two are separated by the island of 
 Awaji, north and south of which are connecting straits. 
 
 By breakfast time next morning we had passed through the 
 Harima Sea, and were well in among the beautiful clusters 
 of islands which lie thickly spread in an east and west direc- 
 tion for nearly two hundred miles. After spending some 
 hours at anchor at the light of Nabeshima (a small pic- 
 turesque island close to the southern extremity of the 
 northern shore) we proceeded again through lovely lakelike 
 scenery, with multitudinous islands, all much less bright 
 and green and flowery at this season than in the summer of 
 course. About noon we reached, and cast anchor in, the small 
 Bay of Mihara or Mirawa, which has been spoken of as a 
 suitable situation for a great protected naval establishment. 
 I need hardly say that the approaches to this place, and 
 its naval and defensive capabilities, were carefully noted, 
 with results that it would he too wearying to the reader to 
 enter upon here. We landed, after luncheon, at the nearest 
 village, and proceeded in jinriki-shas to the old castle of 
 Mihara, where some time was occupied in the inspection of 
 the harbourage, the artificial river hanks, and so forth, and 
 likewise, and not least interestingly, in going over the old 
 palace and outbuildings of the castle proper, with its ancient 
 spears, hows and arrows, matchlocks, pictures, screens, etc. 
 
 The following day, Sunday, 9th of February, we rose soon 
 after six, to see the ship start, and in order that we might 
 observe the character of the western approaches to Mihara, 
 and enjoy the island scenery we were to pass through. And 
 well was one repaid for rising early, by witnessing the 
 strange fantastic beauty of the dawn. In the north-west 
 was a vast dense zone of snow-cloud, deeply fringed with 
 red at the top, and lowering over a vast dark amphitheatre 
 of glorious hills and mountains. The picture was grand 
 and sombre ; but presently the amphitheatre, being already 
 full of dawnlight, began to fill with daylight, and then 
 again with direct sunlight, until at length it brimmed 
 and ran over with vivid glory, and, says my note-book, 
 “ seemed to invite, not admiration, but festive enjoyment.” 
 
120 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VI. 
 
 It was what Shakespeare calls “jocund day,” that filled 
 the world. 
 
 There were official reasons for going up to view the town 
 of Takahara or Takewara, which lies in a pleasant situation 
 in a valley, with the sea coming up to and fiowing past 
 it, through a pretty channel that admits of the passage of 
 boats and junks. We were under way again before eight 
 o’clock, steaming between the beautiful scattered islands, 
 with their sides terraced for cultivation, like the Ehine-side 
 vineyards, broken at intervals with cataracts of green vegeta- 
 tion streaming down to the sea, and relieved by the shining 
 sails of innumerable junks given to the morning winds that 
 wander, literally wander, among the countless islands of these 
 inland waters. At 9.30 we struck northwards, or north- 
 westwards, from the main route to Shimonoseki, in order to 
 visit the ancient and extraordinary temples of Miyajima, 
 which but very few Europeans have seen. 
 
 These temples are situated upon the island of Itsuku (im- 
 pregnable), ofi* the mainland of the province of Woa, and 
 in view of the large town of Heroshima, lying ten miles 
 to the east. Approaching their site from the south, as 
 visitors do, and on the outside of the island, one comes to a 
 stone lantern standing out of the sea off the corner of the 
 island, as a receptacle for a night-lamp for the guidance of 
 local boats ; and passing this, next appears the unusual 
 sight of a large torii standing in’ and rising out of the sea ; 
 and inside of this again open up as you advance a crowd of 
 temples, and a town at the foot of hills. These hills are high, 
 have obviously once been thickly wooded, and are in many 
 places thickly wooded still. It was on these hillsides that 
 the sacred deer and the sacred monkeys of Miyajima once 
 flourished, and it is at their feet that their few remaining 
 representatives still linger."^ The first thing we did on 
 
 * “ The mistake,” says Mr. Max Generally, however, there are many. 
 Miiller,“ which is made by most writers Sometimes the souls of the departed 
 
 on early religions, is that they im- are believed to dwell in certain 
 
 agine tliere can be but one motive for animals. . . . Monkeys are looked 
 
 each custom that has to be explained. upon as men slightly damaged at the 
 
CHAP. VI.] THE INLAND SEA AND NAGASAKI. 
 
 121 
 
 landing was to spend a trifle on the food prepared at little 
 stalls for the purpose, and to feed therewith whatever of 
 sacredness still animated the forlorn-looking deer that 
 followed us to obtain it. Emerson somewhere speaks of 
 those divine days in which even the cattle in the fields seem 
 to have great and tranquil thought ; and if these surviving 
 sacred animals have any great thought, or even any thought 
 at all, they probably employ it, like good old-fashioned 
 Tories at home, in deploring the loss of “ the days that are 
 no more.” I am much afraid, however, that their sacred- 
 ness has nearly disappeared from Itsuku ; and as to the 
 monkeys, they seem to have almost all gone away in 
 company with their sacredness, for in all Miyajima I could 
 find hut one. I was assured that there are two in one of 
 the temples, hut although I looked carefully about it I 
 could see only the one, leaping lazily from rafter to rafter 
 overhead, stopping occasionally to let a glance fall upon our 
 party. I am sure that he was a sacred one, however, by 
 the coolness and indifference with which he did this, for 
 even among ourselves we always find that the more we are 
 disposed to treat people with respect and reverence, the 
 more sure they are to treat us with contempt in return. 
 But I have been too anxious, I find, to give attention to 
 these awe-inspiring beings, and have spoken of them too 
 soon. I leave them to that slow-descending hut certain 
 doom which awaits them. 
 
 Numerous skiffs came off to land us, but we took a boat 
 of the Meiji, and were advised that we could pass under 
 the torii and land at the temple itself. This we attempted, 
 but unsuccessfully, the tide falling fast, and our boat 
 drawing too much water. We therefore landed at the town, 
 and strolled round to the Shinto shrines. The torii which 
 we passed under twice is of wood. A large one in stone to 
 
 Creation : sometimes also as men thus a reluctance arose to kill them, like 
 
 punished for their sins. They are in other animals, and from this there 
 
 some places believed to be able to would be but a small step to ascrib- 
 
 speak, but to sham dumbness in order ing to them certain sacro-sanctity.” — 
 
 to escape labour. Hence, it may be, ‘ Hibbert Lectures,’ 1878. 
 
122 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VI, 
 
 replace it lias been presented by some wealthy personage, 
 and huge granite blocks, already trimmed to size and shape, 
 have been brought to the spot for erection. But for some 
 reason or other— perhaps the whirling of the revolutionary 
 tornado — they have not been erected, and are lying there on 
 the shore, with the sea rising over them each tide. The 
 older parts of these Shinto shrines of Miyajima date from 
 the year 589 a.d., the later parts being about seven hundred 
 years old. Outside there are huge stone and bronze lanterns, 
 some of them of great size and fine workmanship, to say 
 nothing of a pair of large bronze animals, three hundred 
 years old, which some people call lions, but which others 
 might without much offence, I should think, call by any 
 other of a score of names. At high tide the water flows 
 around and under the outer platforms of the temple. The 
 temples are hung with portraits of a hundred poets of all 
 ages, many of them belonging to the imperial family 
 (which is not surprising, seeing the sacred character of 
 the sovereigns, and the leisure enforced upon them and 
 theirs) ; and there are also to be seen a large number of 
 votive writings, drawings, and paintings, some of them such 
 as no one would covet, and some few of them of a very high 
 class of art indeed, and of great value — more, I should 
 think, than their custodians are aware of. There are also 
 here some treasures and curiosities, among them the 
 immense bow of the hero Yaguro, and a sword which 
 belonged to the prince of No to, the scabbard of which I 
 found to measure 7^ feet in length, and the handle feet. 
 There is also, standing about 15 feet in length above 
 ground, and 18 feet round, part of a tree planted by the 
 emperor Takakura (1169-80), and therefore at least seven 
 hundred years old. 
 
 And now I will detail to my readers a few facts about the 
 origin of this temple, which were communicated to me by 
 the authorities on the spot, and in perfect good faith, so 
 that no one need doubt them unless he pleases. The 
 goddess of this temple is Mihashirano-hime-o-kami, who was 
 the daughter of Susanoo-no-mikoto, whom we know so 
 
CHAP. VI.] THE INLAND SEA AND NAGASAKI. 
 
 123 
 
 much about, from what has gone before. The sun-goddess, 
 Amaterasu, ordered our goddess (as we will for the moment 
 call her of this temple) to come down from heaven and 
 abide here. She came down, hut for a long time no 
 residence was provided for her. In point of fact this 
 goddess must have been wandering, neglected and home- 
 less, for an immense period, for it was only in the reign of 
 the empress Suiko (593-629 a.d.) that she had the temple 
 built for her. Now as she probably came down long before 
 Jimmu-Tenno began to reign, and as his reign commenced 
 660 B.C., it would seem that thirteen hundred years would 
 he much within the term of her wanderings. However, 
 these came to an end at last, and in the following remark- 
 able way. It appears that a man named Saekino-Kuramoto, 
 living near the island of Itsuku, was out in a boat fishing 
 “ with another old fellow ” (so runs the narrative), and 
 when they had gone as far as Okanoshima they observed 
 coming towards them a boat with a red sail set on her. 
 This boat closed upon them and at length came up to 
 them, and who should they see on board of her hut our 
 goddess, who told Kuramoto to ask the Mikado ( at that time 
 an empress) to build a temple for her in Miyajima (Itsuku- 
 shima), and promised to protect the Mikado’s government for 
 ever. Kuramoto forthwith made his way up to Kioto, and 
 recounted to the government what he had seen, and the 
 instructions he had received. It happened that there was 
 some sort of mischief or trouble on foot at the time in 
 Kioto, and the government, discerning in this a proof of our 
 goddess’s anger at the neglect shown to her, at once gave 
 orders for the building of her abode. Kuramoto came 
 back with his order for the temple — delighted enough, no 
 doubt ! — and applied himself to finding out the best place 
 for it. While engaged in this, down from the top of the 
 mountain flew a bird, and went right ahead of the boat in 
 which Kuramoto was making his exploration. Kuramoto — 
 as we must see by this time — was far too wise ‘‘an old 
 fellow ” to neglect a chance like this ; he followed the bird 
 till it stopped, and it stopped at the site of the present 
 
124 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VI. 
 
 temple, upon tlie building of which Kuramoto at once set to 
 work, continuing with such energy that he got it completed 
 in November of the same year. I am sorry to say there is 
 another account ; got up, I should conjecture, by some one 
 who grudged Kuramoto his fame and honour : this says 
 that the goddess was placed on the island as long ago as the 
 time of the emperor Sujin-Tenno, who was reigning when 
 Christ was born, and reigned twenty-nine years afterwards. 
 I cannot determine which account is correct, and for a 
 reason which will appear from the following quotation from 
 a written communication made to me in English on the 
 subject.* “ There was a fighting between the one called 
 Minamotono-Hironari, who kept all valuable writing about 
 Miyajima, and Ochi-Yoshitaka ; and the former was totally 
 defeated, and his house was all burnt down; therefore we 
 lost all valuable writings about Miyajima in that time. 
 However, when Haishiyogoku Kiyomori was the prince of 
 Akinokuni, the buildings were made much larger, and 
 it became almost the finest temple in Japan.” 
 
 There is also at Miyajima, superbly situated on a hill, 
 a Buddhist temple of a thousand ‘‘ mats and likewise 
 a pagoda. The town and vicinity are celebrated for their 
 beauty in the season of blossoms, and have admirable tea- 
 houses and gardens. One such place in particular, which 
 we visited, known, I believe, as the Maple tea-house and 
 garden, must be a charming place in spring and summer. 
 
 Before turning from this very delightful spot, I must 
 repeat an interesting story about the “ fighting ” that oc- 
 curred here nearly three and a half centuries ago, the record 
 of which Mr. Satow has quite recently published in connec- 
 tion with a history of the Christian church at Yamaguchi, 
 in Suwo, next to Choshiu.* The characters concerned are 
 Yoshitaka, governing prince of the district, Harukata (who 
 was known previously as Takafusa), his most powerful vassal, 
 and Motonari, a neighbouring magnate and general. The 
 first act (if I may so far assume the dramatic style) reveals 
 
 Trausactions of the Eoyal Asiatic Society of Japan, vol. vii. pt. 2, 1879. 
 
CHAP. VI.] THE INLAND SEA AND NAGASAKI. 
 
 125 
 
 Yoshitaka at a banquet given by himself in his castle of 
 Yamaguchi in honour of envoys from the Shogun and the 
 ruler of the province of Bungo : an alarm is given, Harukata 
 being discovered marching on the town with an armed host. 
 Yoshitaka sends for his uncle and cousin, but they prove 
 disloyal, and do not come ; his ofl&cers propose to send and 
 slay them ; but Yoshitaka refuses, still hoping them loyal ; 
 his more courageous friends offer to march out and meet 
 the enemy, but he hesitates and wavers. At last a traitor 
 induces him to abandon the castle, and he flies with three 
 thousand followers to a neighbouring Buddhist monastery. 
 In the night most of these followers desert him ; in the 
 morning he is surrounded by the enemy, with five times 
 his own numbers. He offers terms ; but all conditions are 
 refused. Night comes on, and he slips away to the sea- 
 shore to cross the Inland Sea to Chikuzen, but the wind is 
 against him, and he cannot pass ; he creeps to another 
 monastery, and is there discovered and again surrounded, and 
 finally commits hara-hiri (disembowels himself) as the last 
 resource, in those days, of a noble (Japanese) mind. This 
 happens September 80, 1551. But before applying the 
 knife, Yoshitaka wrote a letter to Motonari, entrusting to 
 him the task of avenging his death. Motonari wept on 
 reading it, and vowed to punish Harukata’s treason, but 
 prudently resolved to wait for a more favourable opportunity. 
 In 1553 he began to lay his plans for attacking Harukata, 
 obtained from the Imperial court a commission for the 
 punishment of the traitor, and summoned supporters from 
 near and far. In June 1554 Motonari and his sons put 
 their forces into motion, captured several of the enemy’s 
 strong places, and were victorious in a first engagement with 
 a detachment of Harukata’s troops. But Harukata brings 
 together 30,000 men, while Motonari has but 5000, and the 
 latter therefore proceeds to make up by stratagem what he 
 is deficient of in numbers. This brings us to the second act. 
 Motonari begins to fortify this sacred island of Miyajima 
 (Miya-shima), raises fortresses and redoubts on the main- 
 land hard by, and on the little island of Niho (completed 
 
126 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VI. 
 
 June 1585), and affects to regret having wasted time in 
 fortifying a place still so easily to be taken. Harukata 
 marches into the trap, goes off with 20,000 men to 
 Ihakuni, which is near to the island, ferries them over in 
 junks, captures the island (to the horror, doubtless, of the 
 sacred deer and monkeys), and sends off his defiances to 
 Motonari. This is in October. Now comes the third and 
 last act, premising that in the interval Motonari hastens 
 down to Kusatsu, on the mainland close by Miyajima, thus 
 cutting off Harukata’s retreat ; and that, although most of 
 the samurai of the province thought Motonari’s defeat was 
 certain, and consequently held off, he had 300 fighting 
 vessels placed at his disposal from the province of lyo, in 
 Shikoku, and Providence sent him a fine night-tempest to 
 aid in covering his operations. This enabled him to fall 
 like a storm-god upon his foe. During the tempestuous 
 night (the last of the month), Harukata’s army sleeps ; no 
 sentries are posted, the storm being a sufficient guard, they 
 think ; but the troops of Motonari are more than awake, 
 they are thirsting for slaughter ; they embark ; they stand 
 over to the sacred, or rather say desecrated, island; they 
 silently land. As the day breaks, their battle conches sound 
 the assault ; they rush upon the fortifications ; the too- 
 numerous defenders get in each other’s way ; the Motonari 
 men storm over them ; the defences are carried. In vain 
 Harukata endeavours to rally his men ; they break away 
 from him in terror; they rush to their junks; they drown 
 by thousands in attempting to crowd on board of them. 
 Poor Harukata himself, though a hero, is a stout and there- 
 fore a slow one ; as well as he can he pants and presses and 
 sways his way to the shore ; but boat there is none, and 
 like his lord against whom he turned, he too has only the 
 one road of death along which he can now travel : he com- 
 mits liara-ldri. In such straits the French, they tell us, 
 take their courage in both hands ; but the Japanese of the 
 now bygone time used to take his courage in one hand and 
 his cowardice in the other, and so put an end to himself ; not 
 an altogether admirable ending for anybody at any time. 
 
CHAP. VI.] THE INLAND SEA AND NAGASAKI. 
 
 127 
 
 A delightful run southward of a few hours among the 
 islands brought us in the evening again into the route for 
 Shimonoseki, and at 11 p.m. we sighted the Hesaki light, 
 at the eastern entrance of these remarkably narrow. straits. 
 This light is near the northern extremity of the great island 
 of Kiushiu, which is separated by these straits of Shimono- 
 seki from the mainland of Japan, or, strictly speaking, from 
 the great island of Honshiu, which is by far the largest of 
 the four great islands of which Japan is chiefly composed. 
 Mr. McKitchie and his lighthouse staff, and the Meiji Maru 
 with her captain and crew, were busily at work at an early 
 hour in the morning upon the changing of buoys, the sup- 
 plying of stores, and other duties of their department ; but 
 it was not until a later hour that I found myself on deck, 
 admiring and enjoying the beautiful shore scenery. The 
 place was not without interest to an Englishman, as these 
 are the waters into which steamed, in 1863, the squadron 
 of Christian England (composed of nine war-ships, carrying 
 100 guns, and leagued with three French, four Dutch, and 
 one American ship, carrying together more than another 
 hundred guns), to blaze away at the lives and batteries of 
 the subjects of the prince of Nagato — Nagato being a small 
 county 60 miles long and about 15 miles broad for the greater 
 part of its length, and 40 miles at its very broadest point. 
 The first crime to be punished was the warning off from 
 forbidden waters (June 25, 1863) of the American steamer 
 Pembroke by a blank discharge, and the attacking of her by 
 two local men-of-war on the following day because she re- 
 fused to move away, but so attacking her that she sustained 
 no injury. An American writer whom I often quote in this 
 work says : ‘‘As a matter of international law, the Ja- 
 panese had a perfect right to close the Straits of Shimono- 
 seki, since the right to use it was not stipulated by treaty, 
 and each nation has a right to a league of marine territory 
 along its shores, and to the straits and water-passages 
 commanded by cannon-shot. . . . The Pembroke had no right 
 
 * INIr, W. E. Griffis, M.A., in ‘ The Mikado’s Empire.’ 
 
128 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VI. 
 
 where she was. She disregarded the warning of blank 
 cartridges.” However, America, like ourselves, recognising 
 some other principles as much higher and more commanding 
 than mere “ right ” and “ justice,” her envoy sent down the 
 Wyoming to take retribution, and on the 16th of July she 
 had a sharp engagement with the two Choshiu ships and the 
 shore batteries, blowing up one of the vessels and sinking 
 the other. His own ship was much knocked about also, 
 having five men killed and six wounded. At about the 
 same time some French and Dutch ships were also warned 
 off by blank fire, and therefore some French and Dutch 
 men-of-war went and blazed away at the Shimonoseki 
 batteries with shell-guns. “ Ample vengeance was thus 
 taken,” says Mr. Griffis, “ by Dutch, French, and Americans. 
 No British vessel was injured.” But this was an affair of 
 a sort such as England could not of course he kept out of, 
 and although “ orders from H. M. Government forbidding 
 British participation in the needless and wicked act of war 
 arrived after the squadron had sailed, and Sir E. Alcock 
 was then recalled to explain the situation ” (Griffis), in went 
 the English ships on the 5th of September 1864, and with 
 Americans, French, and Dutchmen bombarded the batteries, 
 landed men to silence them, and removed the guns. In the 
 next month the representatives of the same four powers 
 decided that it would he a good thing to add to this bom- 
 bardment a demand for three million dollars^ as “ indemnities 
 and expenses for the hostile acts of the prince of Nagato,” 
 and they insisted on the money being paid ; and it has been 
 paid, the last instalment having been handed over in 1875. 
 It is the present government of the Mikado, struggling 
 bravely along the path of civilisation and progress which 
 England, France, and America have pressed them to pursue, 
 that has had to provide the money, and that too at a time 
 when its chief difficulty in pursuing the new course has been 
 a financial one. 
 
 “ 0 wad some power the giftie gie us, 
 
 To see oursels as ithers see us.” 
 
 This is the spot where the bombarding fleets lay ; there 
 
CHAP. VI.] 
 
 THE INLAND SEA AND NAGASAKI. 
 
 129 
 
 were tlie batteries that we overthrew ; and here, at my side, 
 as I look at both, is a Choshiu officer, now of the Japanese 
 navy, who was on shore there doing the best he conld to 
 resist the Christians. He smiles when the words Christian 
 and Shimonoseki get by any chance thrown together, or near 
 each other, in conversation. Mr. Griffis says “ the total ex- 
 penses incurred by the United States in this expedition were 
 less than 25,000 dollars,” and gives 785,000 dollars as the 
 share of the indemnity which it claimed and took. Worthy 
 sons of a noble sire ! In looking at the spot where lie the 
 English dead killed in the engagement referred to I could 
 but regret their loss.* 
 
 The Straits of Shimonoseki are very narrow, less than half 
 a mile broad at one part, and as they connect the Inland Sea 
 with the Sea of Japan, a strong and swift tide oscillates 
 through them. The town, of 10,000 inhabitants, lies along 
 the northern bank near the eastern end of the strait, and is, 
 I should think, quite two miles in length. We landed at 
 1 P.M., to look through the town and its temple, while the 
 Meiji Marti proceeded with her work at what is fast becoming 
 known as the Eokuren lighthouse, from some misprinting of 
 the name. It is really situated on the island of Mutsure, 
 and marks the western entrance of the straits. I observe, 
 however, that even the lighthouse department now some- 
 times adopt the erroneous name of Eokuren. Our first visit 
 on landing at Shimonoseki was to the Shinto temple, which 
 is situated at some little height up the hillside, but has its 
 torii standing close to the sea’s edge. There is an interest- 
 ing legend — but why should I call it a legend ? why not a 
 history? — connected with the establishment of this temple. 
 
 * I have purposely touched but 
 lightly ill this work upon the conduct 
 of ourselves and others in connection 
 with the bombardments and pecu- 
 niary extortions of both the Kago- 
 shima and the Shimonoseki affairs, 
 as it is neither necessary nor desir- 
 able to revive the controversies that 
 grew out of them. I ask my readers 
 VOL. II. 
 
 to believe, however, that the feeling 
 of aversion with which I regard 
 those acts has not been lightly 
 entertained, but is the result of a 
 careful perusal of despatches and 
 other documents and publications. 
 The Shimonoseki demand was en- 
 tirely unjustifiable, and the money 
 taken ought to be returned. 
 
 K 
 
180 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VI. 
 
 I could not obtain full particulars of it ; all I could learn was 
 that the strong current of the straits was so persistent in 
 carrying away the stones which were to form part of its 
 foundation that it became necessary to appease the offended 
 powers by the sacrifice of a life, and some beautiful and 
 devoted woman, offering herself, was lashed to one of the 
 stones before it was lowered into the rushing waters. The 
 offering was accepted, the difficulty was thus got over, and 
 the noble martyr has a shrine, which she well deserves, 
 devoted to her memory. I am sorry that I cannot help to 
 immortalise her, in however small a degree, by recording 
 her name here. 
 
 Our subsequent stroll through the town was very inter- 
 esting, as we had leisure to look carefully into the shops, and 
 note the articles of trade and manufacture special to a Jap- 
 anese sea-side town, which, down to the meanest and poorest 
 things, were curious and interesting to us strangers. Nor 
 could one forget that Shimonoseki has its historic interest. 
 Hither, nearly seven hundred years ago, the Taira men were 
 driven by the victories of Yoshitsune, and here the two 
 armies prepared for a further struggle, to take place this 
 time upon the water. The Taira men are said to have had 
 five hundred junks, and to have embarked in them not merely 
 their wives and families and aged persons, but court ladies, 
 including the dowager-empress with the dethroned child- 
 Mikado and the sacred ball and sword (the duplicate). The 
 Minamoto men, unincumbered with women and children, 
 manned seven hundred junks. The battle was heroically 
 fought, at first going in favour of the Taira men ; then by 
 acts of personal prowess Yoshitsune turned it in his favour, 
 and in the end utterly overwhelmed his enemies. Warriors, 
 old people, children, ladies, alike perished. The grandmother 
 of the child-Mikado, in presence of the mother, leaped with 
 the child into the sea, and both were drowned with the 
 others.* The sacred emblems were recovered — as they were 
 
 * For a fuller account of the overthrow of the Tail a at Shimonoseki, 
 see vol. i. p. 150. 
 
CHAP. VI.] THE INLAND SEA AND NAGASAKI. 
 
 131 
 
 quite certain to be. If the history of Japan were as well 
 known in Europe as that of Greece and Eome, the Shimo- 
 noseki waters would perhaps become as celebrated, and for 
 the same cause, as those of Syracuse and Actium. 
 
 By 3.15 p.M. the Meiji was again at hand to receive us, 
 and we were soon passing along the western branch of the 
 straits, on a lovely afternoon, observing the little shrines 
 and temples which are to be seen in picturesque places along 
 the shore opposite to Shimonoseki ; and beyond, on both 
 shores, and up the wooded hillsides, the beacons which 
 assist in marking the channel, and which carry small lights 
 at night. Villages nestled in every sheltered bay, with 
 their picturesque junks and boats clustered in front of 
 them ; and as we got round on the western side of the land, 
 where the ship-channel curves away northwards, we came 
 upon the broad shining surface of the smooth sea, that doubt- 
 less overspread many a once beautiful landscape, of which 
 only the mountain-tops, in the form of islands, are now visible. 
 But even as we looked over this smooth sea, shining with more 
 than rainbow promise of a calm passage round to Nagasaki, 
 whither we now were bound, a breeze began to stir the dis- 
 tant surface and travel towards us. Scarcely had it reached 
 us before this breeze got broken into gusts, which separately 
 smote the sea, and made it foam wherever they struck it. 
 Meanwhile the atmosphere began to thicken, tha mists to 
 gather into clouds, and the clouds to cluster into stormy 
 masses ; and before we had taken the lighthouse passengers 
 on board at Mutsure (Eokuren) it was obvious that we were 
 in for a roughish night of it. And this, I am told, we had : 
 but I can say nothing of it from personal knowledge, for I 
 went early to my shelf, and only awoke to find our ship at 
 anchor on a fine morning in the lovely harbour of Nagasaki 
 — second to none perhaps in loveliness. On landing, some 
 of us became the guests of a gentleman * well famed for 
 years past in Japan, and whose residence, Iponmats (One 
 Pine-tree House, the one pine-tree growing up through the 
 
 K 2 
 
 * Mr. Glover. 
 
132 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VI. 
 
 roof of the conservatory into the sunshine), has the finest 
 view obtainable in this neighbourhood of fine views. As the 
 grounds of Iponmats include a lawn-tennis ground, and as 
 Nagasaki has some remarkably pleasant ladies resident in it 
 (the gentlemen are duly complimented, I hope, in that state- 
 ment — at least their good taste is recognised), we found 
 ourselves under fortunate conditions for the four days, all 
 too short, which we remained in it. 
 
 Our first day in Nagasaki was notable for the firing of an 
 imperial salute at noon, with foreign men-of-war dressed in 
 flags for the occasion, and on inquiry I was informed that 
 this was a celebration in honour of the coronation of the first 
 Mikado, Jimmu-Tenno, and that all the men-of-war of Japan 
 in other ports were at the same time saluting this imperial 
 and divine personage. Now there is a doubt among learned 
 men whether Jimmu-Tenno ever was a veritable man, and 
 perhaps the doubt may have some sort of justification con- 
 sidering that he is reputed to be only fifth in descent from 
 the sun-goddess, that his parents alighted from heaven upon 
 a mountain top, and that he himself is Said to 'have been 
 guided in his invasion of Yamashino by a demigod in the 
 form of a gigantic black crow. Still, he is set down in all 
 the official histories of Japan now published as the first 
 Mikado.. As the date of the commencement of his reign is 
 given (660 b.c.), and as his exploits are recounted at great 
 length and with great particularity, we will not, here at 
 least, he so impolite as to question his historical existence 
 or distinction. But taking these for granted, and neverthe- 
 less remembering that for many ages past he has been deified 
 and worshipped, it certainly was a little startling to find 
 guns thundering at midday in a commercial port in his 
 honour, and foreign war- vessels hoisting joyous colours in 
 sympathy with the celebration. 
 
 ' Our stay of four days in Nagasaki was made available for 
 visiting the government (Japanese) and some private estab- 
 lishments there, and also for inspecting the island coal-mines 
 of Takashima. In the latter, by the courtesy of the pro- 
 prietor and managers, we had a luxurious luncheon laid out 
 
CHAP. VI.] THE INLAND SEA AND NAGASAKI. 
 
 133 
 
 200 feet below tbe ground — or, possibly, below the sea, for 
 these mines run under the sea in places. Tiffin was spread 
 in a chamber hewn out of two very thick strata of coal, 
 one 10 feet and one 8 feet thick, with but 2 feet of earth 
 between. The chamber was connected with the ventilators, 
 whitewashed of course, and lighted with safety-lamps. After 
 luncheon, in order to verify the nature of the chamber, a man 
 was brought in with tools, and opened up the coal in several 
 places.* While waiting for the steamer, I climbed the hill 
 near the pit, passing among the houses of the pitmen and 
 pitwomen, both of whom work in the mine all but naked, 
 and on my way down I met a man occasionally who seemed 
 to consider that coal-dust alone was a sufficient attire for a 
 philosopher. On the hilltop was a little churchyard, afford- 
 ing scores of proofs that among even these poor miners a 
 few flowers or a bit of green or a little something in a cup 
 or a vase could be found and carried to the hilltop as a 
 tribute to some dear one dead. 
 
 As what I have to say about the government establishments 
 upon the shores of Nagasaki harbour is somewhat technical, 
 I cheerfully consign it to a footnote. t I ought to notice. 
 
 * We are indebted to Mr. Glover 
 and Mr. Martin for mueh kindness 
 and courtesy on the occasion of this 
 visit. 
 
 t The following are a few particu- 
 lars of the government establishments 
 in Nagasaki which are connected 
 with the manufacturing section of 
 the public works department. The 
 engine works, which are situated at 
 Akunoura, in a sheltered position on 
 the west side of the harbour, about a 
 mile and a half from the entrance, 
 were established about twenty-three 
 years ago, and were chiefly con- 
 structed and conducted for some years 
 under the superintendence of Dutch 
 engineers. 'Shese works cover about 
 six acres of ground, and have during 
 tbe last four and a half years been 
 entirely reconstructed. Tlie machine 
 
 and erecting shop is a building 150 
 feet long by 80 feet wide, in three 
 bays. The centre bay, being 40 feet 
 wide by 30 feet bigli, will be fitted 
 with a 10-ton travelling crane. The 
 side bays are each 20 feet wide by 14 
 feet high. The boiler shop is 130 
 feet long by 70 feet wide, in two 
 bays, one 50 feet wide by 25 feet 
 high, and one 20 feet wide by 14 feet 
 high. In this shop at the time of my 
 visit they were fitting up a hydraulic 
 rivetter and a 16-ton crane, over 
 which the roof is 40 feet high. The 
 livetter and crane will be worked by 
 the same accumulator, and when 
 these are complete they will be able 
 to construct both land and marine 
 boilers of any size up to 13 feet 6 
 inches diameter, and of jfiates 1 j inch 
 I hick. The foundry is 130 feet long 
 
134 
 
 JAFAN. 
 
 [chap. VI. 
 
 however, here in the text, the very large stone graving- 
 dock, one of the finest in the world, which the Japanese 
 government are building, and which is now rapidly ap- 
 proaching completion. At Nagasaki I had the pleasure 
 of again meeting the Eev. Mr. Andrews, of the Church of 
 
 by 46 feet wide by 21 feet high, sup- 
 plied with two cupolas, four brass 
 furnaces, oue 10- and one 5-tou crane. 
 The forge is 1 30 feet long by 50 feet 
 wide by 18 feet high, and contains 
 sixteen blacksmith’s fires, one 5-cwt. 
 and one 2-ton steam hammer, with 
 suitable furnace and cianes. The 
 coppersmith’s shop is 50 feet long by 
 25 feet wide, with a small galvanising 
 shop attached. The store, whicli is 
 270 feet long by 25 feet wide, is well 
 stocked with all necessary materials. 
 The office, gate-houses, two landing 
 places, and the sea-walls are also ne\v. 
 On the wharf there is a pair of sheer- 
 legs capable of lifting 40 tons. In 
 front of the wharf there is about 18 
 feet of water at low tide, and it can 
 easily be increased to 25 feet if ne- 
 cessary. The works employ 475 men 
 at present, not including officers, 
 clerks, etc., or contractors’ men em- 
 ployed on improvements. The prin- 
 cipal work done in the factory up 
 to the present has been repairs to 
 steamers, at an average of about two 
 per month. With regard to new 
 work, during the last four years and 
 a half they have constructed thirty 
 marine and land boilers, one or tw'o 
 pairs of small marine engines, two 
 pairs of hauling engines, with pumps, 
 etc , for mines. They had in February, 
 when I saw the works, orders for tw'o 
 pairs of hauling engines, four special 
 pumps, a pair of simple marine 
 engines of 500 indicated horse-power, 
 and a pair of compound of 1000 indi- 
 cated horse-power, with boilers, etc. 
 In connection with this department 
 the government are constructing at 
 
 Tatagami the large dry dock men- 
 tioned in the text, under the superin- 
 tendence of Mr. Vincent Florent, who 
 was kind enough to show us over it. 
 The dock was commenced about 
 twelve years ago, but very little was 
 done until Mr. Florent was engaged 
 to complete it six years ago. The 
 dock is 460 feet long by 89 feet 
 wide at the top, with 29 feet of water 
 on the sill. The caisson was sent 
 out from England in pieces, and is 
 being built up in the dock. The 
 pumping machinery, which consists 
 of four 13-inch centrifugal pumps 
 driven by two horizontal engines, was 
 made at Akunoura. I was sorry to 
 see this dock so completely cut oft' 
 from the engineering establishment ; 
 a better site existed close to the lat- 
 ter. Opposite the dock, on the other 
 side of the harbour, at Koski, tliere 
 is a patent hauling-up slip, also 
 belonging to the government, which 
 is capable of taking on vessels of 1600 
 tons (gross tonnage). It was built 
 about eleven or twelve years ago by 
 Mr. T. B. Glover of Nagasaki, but 
 was afterwards bought over by the 
 government. At the slip they had 
 orders for building two small coast- 
 ing steamers for private owners, and 
 one large steamer for the mining 
 department. These three departments 
 are under the control of one director, 
 INlr. Watanabi, and the head office 
 is at Akunoura. The government 
 appeared to me to have a very valu- 
 able young officer in the person of 
 Mr. F. R. Storie, the superintending 
 engineer. 
 
CHAP. VI.] THE INLAND SEA AND NAGASAKI. 
 
 135 
 
 England Missionary Society, who, with Mrs. Andrews, came 
 out in the same ship as ourselves from Suez. They were 
 good enough to show us the little new church and schools in 
 which they hope to labour for years to come in educating, 
 in more ways than one, such of the resident Japanese adults 
 and children as may be willing to receive their instructions 
 and ministrations. It would he well if missionary authorities 
 could always obtain such services as theirs, which, I feel 
 confident, will be conducted with a wise regard to the excep - 
 tional, and often trying, conditions under which they have 
 to work. Their church buildings and residence are situated 
 on the western side of the old Dutch settlement of Deshima 
 (where I am afraid the Dutch did not always set a very 
 Christian example), commanding a beautiful view down the 
 harbour, between the blooming hills on either side of it. 
 Fortunately Pappenherg, down the steep sides of which the 
 Japanese Christians were hurled into the sea by thousands 
 two hundred and fifty years ago, is not within their home- 
 view, and I ’ hope they will not remember too often that it 
 was at Nagasaki that Christians were before their time 
 crucified. May they and their present work prosper ! 
 
 We embarked at Nagasaki at midnight on Friday, 14th 
 of February, in the ToMo Mam, one of the fine steamers of 
 the Japanese company known as the Mitsu Bishi Steamshij) 
 Company. The accommodation in these steamers, the 
 largest of which run between Yokohama and Shanghai 
 through the Inland Sea, is excellent, and the speed of the 
 Tohio Mara was most satisfactory. Leaving the harbour at 
 1 A.M. on the 15th, we were at Shimonoseki by two o’clock 
 the following afternoon, and at Kobe at noon next day, 
 learning, as we passed on to the anchorage, that the pro- 
 jecting land which shelters the bay of Hiogo and Kobe is 
 artificial, having been formed six hundred years ago. We 
 also had a good opportunity, on this bright day of warm 
 sunshine, of observing the fortifications and the lighthouse. 
 Soon after two o’clock we were in a railway train ea route 
 for the ancient and historic castled city of Osaka — great for 
 both its military and its commercial importance. 
 
136 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VI. 
 
 Osaka is one of the three largest cities of Japan, having a 
 population of over 600,000 persons. By the courtesy of the 
 governor, Mr. Watanahe, I was able to observe the growth 
 of this city from its foundation up to the present time in a 
 series of maps which have been preserved, and lately re- 
 produced. It is said to have been near the site of Osaka 
 that the first and, as many suppose, the mythic Mikado 
 Jimmu-Tenno landed on his progress eastward, and near here 
 also that he was defeated and induced to reconsider his 
 purposes. By means of suitable consultations and cere- 
 monies, he ascertained that the sun-goddess was displeased 
 with his continual advances eastward, instead of moving, 
 like the sun, the other way, and he prudently turned in a 
 different direction. It was here that Nohunaga, towards 
 the close of the sixteenth century, not only besieged his 
 Buddhist enemies in their strongly defended temple, but 
 gave to the sword some thousands of people, of both sexes 
 and all ages, and sent a boatload of their ears and noses 
 as a caution to the remaining defenders, who ultimately gave 
 way to him. Upon the improvement of this city, as upon 
 that of Kioto, the great Taiko (Hideyoshi) afterwards set to 
 work, deepening the river, digging canals, and building the 
 immense castle which has long been so famous, and the 
 strengthening of which is said to have engaged his last 
 thoughts. It was in this castle that lyeyasu, the first of 
 the Tokugawa Shoguns, besieged the Taiko’s son, Hideyori, 
 in the year 1615, burning the citadel, and slaying Hideyori 
 and thousands of his supporters. It was from Osaka, in 
 January 1868, that the last Tycoon, Keiki, started for the 
 great battles near Kioto which determined the fate of the 
 empire and assured to J apan its present form of government, 
 and it was to Osaka Castle that his beaten and shattered 
 army retreated for dear life, only, however, to burn its 
 citadel and to finally flee from it before the victorious forces 
 of the Mikado. 
 

( 137 ) 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 THE CITY OF OSAKA. 
 
 Approach to the city — AVell-mauaged railways — The imperial reception- 
 house — Governor Watanabe— A nursery garden — Views over the city — 
 Kozu, the temple of deified emperors — Another Shinto temple — An 
 ancient Buddhist temple — Keminiscences of Prince Shotoku-taishi — 
 Tlie temple of the sea-gods — A musical service therein — A prehistoric 
 boat — Divine jewels (magatama ) — A Japanese fair — The castle of Osaka 
 — Its modern arsenal — Immense monoliths — A ceiling of arrows — A 
 gilded roof — The castle keep — Inspections of barracks — Studious soldiers 
 — A private Japanese dinner — A public dinner — Japanese music and 
 dances — A speech by the President of the Chamber of Commerce — A 
 pretty compliment — Dramatic performances — A purchasing expedition 
 — The power of art — Presents — The imperial mint — The new coinage 
 — Output of the mint. 
 
 On leaving Kobe, and before coming in view of Osaka, the 
 neighbourhood of a great commercial city was made manifest 
 by the presence on the distant bay of from two to three 
 hundred junks of all sizes, including many of obviously 
 sea-going character. The district through which the train 
 bore us was no less significant of agricultural activity, for 
 although much of the land was but poor, consisting indeed 
 of little more than sand washed freely down from the 
 neighbouring hills, yet every foot of it was carefully culti- 
 vated, and the road swarmed with villages. We passed 
 through several tea-plantations on our way, and we were 
 informed that the district is a notable one for the dis- 
 tillation of the best description of sake, the native wine. 
 It was a lovely sunny afternoon as we rolled through this 
 land of industry and peace, and it was with pleasure that 
 we presently saw the high white castle walls of Osaka 
 
138 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VII. 
 
 shine brightly forth. On this short railway journey, 
 and on our arrival at the Osaka station, we had renewed 
 evidences of the efficient business-like manner in which 
 the Japanese have taken to railway management, and like- 
 wise to the English police system, nothing being wanting 
 to the orderly and rapid despatch of trains and passengers, 
 and the stations being such as would improve the credit of 
 many English towns if transferred to them. 
 
 Upon the bank of the main river, and at no great distance 
 from the famous castle, are the European buildings of the 
 great government mint, including a handsome residence 
 known as the imperial reception house, which on one or 
 two occasions has accommodated the emperor during his 
 visits,* and is available for the general use of the state. 
 There not being yet a European hotel in Osaka — at least we 
 saw and heard of none — we w^ere courteously received in this 
 official house, a distinction doubtless due to our association 
 with his excellency the minister of marine. Here were our 
 headquarters for more than a week, during which, however, 
 we made our excursion to the ancient capital of Nara, and 
 were besides so hospitably treated by the governor, the 
 military authorities, and the leading merchants of the city, 
 that we seldom found ourselves within the walls of our 
 residence save at night. 
 
 The day succeeding our arrival was spent in company 
 of the governor, Mr. Watanahe, wffio, like the governors of 
 Kioto and Tokio, holds his appointment from the crown. 
 The kindness of this gentleman to us was equal to the high 
 reputation which he bears, and he is a man who has rendered 
 
 * “ His imperuil majesty the 
 Tenuo visited Yamato province, to 
 otfer personal worship to Jininm Tei, 
 on the second month of this year, 
 1877, and on his retm-n from that 
 province his majesty made a short 
 stay at Osaka, and on the fourteenth 
 day of the second month, the Sempu- 
 kuwaii (imperial receptioji house) 
 of the mint was converted into the 
 ‘ Anzaisho ’ (temporarj residence of 
 
 the Mikado\ On the 15th his 
 majesty condescended to inspect the 
 mint, and before retiring ordered 
 presents to he made to the officials, 
 foreign and Japanese, according to 
 their ranks. On the 16th his majesty 
 the Teuno left the ‘ Anzaisho ’ 
 (Sempukuwau) at 9.10 a.m., and 
 returned to Saikei .Kioto) by train.” 
 — ‘ Mint Eeport.’ 
 
CHAP. VII.] 
 
 THE CITY OF OSAKA 
 
 139 
 
 signal service to the state. Besides handsome presents, 
 exhibiting the productions of the city in artificial flowers 
 and other specialties, he on one occasion took me into the 
 sword room of his residence, and hade me choose from 
 among at least a score of swords, most of which had associa- 
 tions that gave them special value to him, any one I pre- 
 ferred. As politely as I could I declined the privilege, hut 
 on getting back to Kioto a few weeks afterwards I found 
 awaiting me as a present from him a splendid sword by one 
 of the first makers, Yoshikage of Bizen, valued in the 
 official certificate that accompanied it at one hundred and 
 thirty pieces of gold. I mention this as an illustration of 
 the thoroughness of the generous attentions which were 
 shown to us, even in the provinces, and far from the 
 capital. 
 
 The first place to which the governor conducted us 
 was a famous nursery garden and tea-house, where we saw 
 to the best advantage possible at the season of the year 
 (February 17) the characteristic plants of Japan — miniature 
 evergreens, blossoming miniature plum shrubs, miniature 
 pine-trees, small sage palms, small red-berry plants, drooping 
 shrubs grown in pots, Chinese and Japanese bamboo-plants, 
 curious grasses and ferns, camellias and camellia creepers, 
 plants curiously grown into circular and serpentine forms, 
 strange cacti, etc. Visiting a small tower, we gained a 
 splendid view over the city — that city, the reader may 
 remember, over which the ancient emperor Nintoku looked 
 when he realised the distress of his people, and the revival 
 of which he regarded as evidence of his own prosperity. 
 Osaka was not then, however, as it now is, a city of nearly 
 one hundred thousand houses and more than three hundred 
 thousand people, neglecting suburbs and the towns that all 
 but adjoin it. At a later period of the day we ascended the 
 spot on which Nintoku stood, upon which a temple now 
 stands, where he is worshipped, and from which the view 
 over the city and plains beyond is superb. Nintoku reigned 
 fifteen centuries and a half ago, and I was shown a plan of 
 the city at that period ; beyond a few temples there was but 
 
140 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VII. 
 
 little city to speak of. In a map made seven hundred to 
 eight hundred years ago, which also we saw, vessels were 
 shown floating where the centre of the city now is. From 
 the elevation of which I have spoken the Venetian character 
 of the modern city was very visible, but not so manifest as 
 one sees it to be on driving about the streets. It is every- 
 where intersected with rivers and canals, spanned by innu- 
 merable bridges, and alive with countless vessels and boats 
 gliding hither and thither. 
 
 The first temple visited — that just before referred to — 
 was the Shinto temple of Kozu, where several gods (kami) 
 are worshipped, and thirty six poets are celebrated. The 
 chief kami are the emperors Nintoku, Chuai, Ojin, Jingu 
 (empress), and Kichiu, their worship commencing a thousand 
 years ago, in the reign of Seiwa-Tenno. 
 
 The next temple visited was likewise of the Shinto type, 
 and known as that of Ikudama (in Higashi nari gori). The 
 gods worshipped here are two in number, viz. 1. Ikukuni 
 dama, and 2. Tarukuni dama. These gods were first 
 adored in the forty-ninth year of Jimmu-Tenno’s reign, and 
 have therefore been worshipped for nearly twenty-five cen- 
 turies. This temple is also very ancient, having been 
 originally founded on what is now the site of the castle, in 
 the third year of the reign of Ojin-Tenno (273 a.d.), and 
 subsequently removed to its present site in the year 1585. 
 At this temple also we were met by the priests, who took 
 great interest in our visit, and explained the uses, or rather 
 services, of the goliei and “ mirror ” to us. 
 
 We were next conducted to the ancient and celebrated 
 Buddhist temple of Korujo, in Tennoji. This temple was 
 founded in the very early days of Buddhism, at the request 
 of the famous prince Shotoku-taishi, of whom I have written 
 much in former chapters. It was so founded in the year 
 589 A.D., but was removed to its present site ten years later. 
 It has existed, therefore, for nearly thirteen hundred years, 
 and includes among its treasures, which were obligingly 
 shown to us, several sacred books brought over from Korea 
 in those early days ; an arrow used in the struggle against 
 
CHAP. VII.] 
 
 THE CITY OF OSAKA. 
 
 141 
 
 Buddhism ; Shotoku-taishi’s sword ; a history of the founda- 
 tion of the temple written hy him, and hearing the impress 
 of his hand ; his image of Buddha ; a ceremonial gown of 
 his ; a manuscript seventeen hundred years old ; an image 
 of Kwannon thirteen hundred years old ; a brass globe one 
 thousand years old ; and several other interesting antiquities. 
 One need hardly say that this temple and its memorials 
 cover almost the entire period of the existence of the religion 
 of Buddha in Japan A curious scholar, learned in Bud- 
 dhistic and Japanese literature, might possibly draw some 
 interesting parallels between the Indian prince Sidarrtha 
 (Buddha) and his ardent Japanese disciple Prince Tiyoto 
 (Shotoku). 
 
 The last temple visited this day was the most famous 
 among mariners in all Japan — that of Sumiyoshi (in Nishinari 
 Yori Setsu). It is a Shinto temple, and we were met at the 
 entrance by the priests, in mauve dresses with black caps. 
 Four gods are worshipped here. It is a very ancient temple, 
 dating from the eleventh year of the reign of the warrior- 
 empress Jingu Kogo (212 a.d ), to whom it is dedicated as 
 the patron Jcami of all who travel by sea It, therefore, has 
 existed for nearly seventeen centuries. ' The three gods of 
 the temple were first worshipped in the first reign of that 
 empress. They are — 
 
 1. Soko-tsutsu, God of the Sea Bottom. 
 
 2. Naka-tsutsu, God of the Middle Sea. 
 
 3. Uwa-tsutsu, God of the Sea Surface, and Wave Con- 
 
 troller. 
 
 As a fourth, the empress Jingu is herself here worshipped 
 under her own name of Oki-naga-Tarashi-hime. The priests 
 could not tell me when she was first worshipped. The name 
 of the temple, Sumiyoshi, signifies Fortunate Eesidence 
 of the Four Incorporated Gods. This is the famous temple 
 referred to in the chapter on the Shinto religion as that of the 
 god whom the old ex-governor of Tosa vainly sought to pro- 
 pitiate a thousand years ago by throwing nusa into the sea, 
 but who was only appeased hy the sacrifice of his excellency’s 
 
142 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. vit. 
 
 mirror. Its present aspect is a very prosperous one, the 
 temple itself having been lately rebuilt apparently, and its 
 precincts adorned with magnificent lanterns in bronze and 
 marble, with a large number of others of inferior magnitude 
 and character, but many of them very fine indeed. The 
 vessels of sake presented to the gods at the shrine were 
 freely served, and certainly it was not the fault of the 
 Japanese or of their priests if the bottom, the middle, and 
 the surface of the sea were not all as peaceful as the soul of 
 the veriest landsman could possibly desire. Not only were 
 the temple and its accessories such as I have described, but 
 to add to the interest and impressiveness of the place, the 
 head priest was so courteous as to have a musical service 
 performed before us by the ministers, the musicians, and 
 the virgin priestesses of the temple. This took place, not 
 in the main building, but in a separate and smaller one, 
 hung with votive pictures. The arrangements and proceed- 
 ings were so much like those which we afterwards witnessed 
 at the still more sacred shrines of Ise that I need not here 
 attempt any description. 
 
 From the temples we took a stroll to the river-side, over 
 one of the steeply-curved bridges that few but experts can 
 surmount, and thence were taken a long and swift run in 
 OMi jinrihi-shas to the museum of Osaka, a small institution, 
 modelled upon the European type. Among the many in- 
 teresting antiquities there seen was one of a remarkable 
 character. This was a very ancient boat, wrought out of 
 solid timber, and dug up from a depth of 30 feet below, the 
 present level of the soil of the city. The portion of this 
 boat which was recovered was 36 feet long and 5 feet 
 broad, and was formed in two pieces, joined together by a 
 scarph 5 J feet long near the centre of the boat. It was made 
 before metal was known or brought into use, and had no 
 other fastenings but those which resulted from the ingenious 
 scarphing of the parts, from the tie of a longitudinal keelson 
 piece which overran the scarph, and from the manner in 
 which the thwarts were worked. Some sort of mastic was 
 probably employed to help in making the scarph water- 
 
CHAP. VII,] 
 
 THE CITY OF OSAKA. 
 
 143 
 
 tight. Although formed probably with flint implements, 
 before the iron and bronze ages, it was well built, and now 
 hears distinct traces of what appears to be an ornamental 
 moulding worked upon the outside of the gunwale. It was 
 difficult to determine of what wood it was built, hut it was 
 considered by the Japanese to be either of camphor wood or 
 mulberry-tree. How many things have happened, in Japan 
 as elsewhere, since the hands that wrought her have ceased 
 to ply their trade — possibly the expedition of Jimmu-Tenno 
 to Osaka among other things ! 
 
 There was also shown us in the museum a small hut very 
 good collection, as I think, of magatama jewels, which are 
 beautifully wrought carved pieces of hard stone, perforated 
 at the end. They are very ancient and rare, coming down, 
 it is supposed, from the Divine Period, being occasionally 
 dug out of the soil, and not otherwise obtainable — except in 
 counterfeit or imitation. After taking tea in a little secluded 
 garden tea-house — tea made of the powdered leaf, by an ac- 
 complished master of the art of mixing it, whose deliberation 
 and ceremony in carrying out each stage of the process was 
 the more amusing as it exhibited what young ladies are 
 taught as a high accomplishment — and after following up 
 the tea with a parting glass of champagne, drunk in an 
 elevated summer-house with the governor, we took our leave 
 of him, and drove in ouv Jinrikis to a sort of fair. There, 
 entering a series of booths in succession, we saw men and 
 women walking over half a dozen yards of burning logs 
 with naked feet, a dwarf, a lady with a face of horrible 
 deformity, a series of very well-made wax figures, a tiger, and, 
 better than all, the common people in crowds amusing 
 themselves with admirable good humour, and behaviour 
 orderly in the extreme. It was now time to return to our 
 home in the mint, which we did at a speed that made 
 jinriki men running tandem more respected and pitied 
 than ever. 
 
 Our next day was spent in visiting the fine old castle of 
 Osaka, with its large moats, grand gateways, huge monoliths, 
 and ruined palaces and keep ; also, within its outer limits. 
 
144 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VII. 
 
 the modern arsenal and arms manufactory, which have been 
 established in European fashion, and appear to be working 
 with much efficiency. During the recent rebellion in Satsuma 
 great demands were thrown upon this arsenal, and a large 
 quantity of arms underwent repair and renovation there. 
 Much of work of the same kind was still proceeding, together 
 with the manufacture of ammunition for small arms. The 
 buildings were solid and good, rock foundations being easily 
 obtainable for most buildings near to Osaka Castle ; the 
 machinery was likewise good, and in good condition. I did not 
 observe a single European, officer or man, throughout these 
 works. As it rained heavily during our visit, we were 
 unable to make a close inspection of the large new buildings 
 now constructing as a factory for great guns, but they were 
 obviously of a very substantial kind, and the erection of a. 
 great-gun manufactory in Japan may be noted as a sign of 
 the times. 
 
 An officer sent by the general commanding the troops in 
 the Osaka district next conducted us over the castle bridge, 
 through the great gateway, up the long flight of broad steps 
 to the level of the old palace and of the existing official 
 buildings. It would be difficult to exaggerate the combined 
 beauty and grandeur of this fine old castle, with its lofty 
 walls of stone, its curved outlines, its picturesque white 
 buildings at the corners, its massive tower, its broad moat, 
 and its huge blocks of granite of unexampled size and weight. 
 The whole or most of the walls are notable for these very 
 large blocks of granite, which vie with the largest of those 
 built into the great pyramid of Cheops, near Cairo, in Egypt ; 
 but as the main entrance to the castle proper is approached, 
 one sees block after block of the most astonishing propor- 
 tions, until at and opposite to the entrance itself are single 
 stones of such immense size that one is almost driven to 
 doubt whether his senses are not deceiving him. It is so 
 difficult to understand how such huge masses can have been 
 quarried, transported, raised to such a height, and there 
 worked into walls. I could not conveniently measure the 
 largest stones, but I feel sure that some of them must be 
 
CHAP. VII.] 
 
 THE CITY OF OSAKA. 
 
 145 
 
 over twenty feet in height, nearly twice that in length, and 
 several feet thick, and must weigh three hundred to four 
 hundred tons. In reply to questions it was stated by some of 
 the officers quartered at the castle that these stones were 
 probably brought from quarries by the Inland Sea, situated 
 near Mihara, more than one hundred miles from Osaka, but 
 that some thought it probable that they were obtained from 
 the hill on which the castle stands. It was positively asserted 
 that the castle, with its stupendous walls, was built within 
 fifteen months, a statement which appears to me incredible, 
 however great a command of labour the builder may have 
 possessed. 
 
 Our visit to this historic castle was a very pleasant one, 
 in spite of the weather, which was damp, with occasional 
 showers. We were received by the general and other officers 
 of the garrison, and taken to an elevated tower-room, from 
 which a good view of the castle and city around could he 
 obtained. The history of the castle was briefly stated, and 
 plans of Osaka in very early times and at subsequent periods 
 after the building of the castle were inspected. The general 
 was so obliging as to give me a tracing of the castle and 
 present buildings, with some statistical information of much 
 interest. Another of the officers was good enough to pre- 
 sent us with some very old gold-hound arrows, which had 
 formed part of a ceiling formed of arrows in the old castle of 
 Kanazawa, in the province of Kaga, together with a tile 
 bearing the crest of the Daimio brought from the same 
 castle, and an ancient tile from another castle the roof of 
 which was once covered with gold, the tile in question still 
 bearing traces of gold upon its surface. 
 
 After taking light refreshments we went to the old castle 
 keep, which, although the upper stories are gone, still stands 
 high above everything else, overlooking the whole city and 
 the country round to the mountain limits. We then returned 
 to the castle gate, there taking leave of the general, and 
 proceeding to visit the infantry barracks, the artillery 
 barracks and stables, and other military places of interest. 
 What most struck me in these barracks, and in other military 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 L 
 
146 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VII. 
 
 barracks in Japan, was the multiplicity of books and appli- 
 ances for reading and study. Every common soldier appears 
 to furnish himself, or to be furnished, with quite a small 
 library all to himself — a circumstance that may, perhaps, 
 be traced to the pre-revolution period of Japan, when the 
 samurai class were at once the soldiers and the scholars of 
 the country. Perhaps with the pay of British troops steadily 
 increasing as it is, and with so many facilities for study and 
 recreation as they are now furnished with, the time may not 
 be far distant when our own soldiers will occupy, as they well 
 might, a comparatively high position in the social scale, and 
 when the army will attract to it the surplus members of the 
 civil community of all grades that are respectable and well 
 instructed. 
 
 The evening of this day was devoted to our first dinner, 
 taken after the fashion of the country. In Tokio we had 
 taken lunch in native style occasionally in a tea-house, and 
 had made our first acquaintance (at a meal) with the floor as 
 a table, chopsticks as dining implements, and dancing girls 
 and geishas as our table attendants. But we had not before 
 dined in this fashion, and now at the invitation of Mr. 
 Godai Tomo-Atsu (colloquially Mr. Godai), president of the 
 Osaka chamber of commerce, we were to test the system. 
 I am free to confess that neither on this nor on any future 
 occasion did I flatter myself that so far as I was concerned 
 the experiment was a success. The rigidity of forty years 
 and an octave, with the restraints of European dress, are 
 unfavourable to the commencement of floor gymnastics, and 
 as my chopstick hand happened to be crushed a few years 
 ago, to the destruction of some of the muscles, I found the 
 chopsticks almost as difficult to play as the piano. But the 
 only defects on the occasion were with myself. After a 
 brief sojourn in the “ poetry room ” of my host, and another 
 in the ceremonial tea-room, where Madame Godai presided 
 as some Japanese ladies can — which is very perfectly, let me 
 assure the reader, as Madame Godai will not read this — and 
 after indulging our eyes with wonders of lacquer work, 
 bronze, and painting, we dined, and learnt how Japanese do 
 
CHAP. VII.] 
 
 THE CITY OF OSAKA. 
 
 147 
 
 dine, when they have a mind. All I will say further on the 
 matter here is that on every possible occasion thereafter I 
 was much more than content to dine Japanese fashion, in 
 spite of all temptations ” of the best European cooks to he 
 found in the country. 
 
 On Wednesday the 17th of February we started on a 
 visit to the ancient and sacred city of Nara, which was the 
 capital of old Japan in the time of the famous empresses 
 of the seventh and eighth centuries. But the story of that 
 visit I must tell, however hastily and imperfectly, in a 
 separate chapter, and here pass on to our rearrival in 
 Osaka. In the Nara chapter I shall bring the narrative 
 down to the entertainment of which I now proceed to speak, 
 and which took place immediately on our return from Nara. 
 This banquet was a highly characteristic one in many ways. 
 It was, I understood, the first ever given by the merchants of 
 the city of Osaka to any foreign visitor ; it was attended 
 by one of the ministers of state. Admiral Kawamura ; it was 
 given on a scale of great splendour, in a purely Japanese 
 style in every respect ; national music, singing, and dancing 
 of the very highest class were performed during the evening ; 
 and the hosts were the president, vice-presidents, and 
 members of council of the chamber of commerce and the 
 stock exchange of Osaka,* who in conveying their invita- 
 
 * The following list of our prin- 
 cipal entertainers was handed to 
 me — I give it without alteration : 
 Godai Tomo-Atsu, President of 
 Commercial Chamber, and originator 
 of Stock Exchange, Osaka. Nakano 
 Goichi, Vice-President of Commercial 
 Chamber, Osaka. Hirose Sekei, do. 
 Kato Yo-ichi, Manager of Chamber 
 of Commerce, Osaka. Shibakawa 
 Matakei, do., and Inspector of Bai- 
 shio-kwaishio (where is transacted 
 the business for rice). The above 
 gentlemen are voted and intrusted 
 to their office by the people of 
 Osaka. The Commercial Chamber 
 is constructed by the many thousand 
 
 very different parties of the merchants 
 of Osaka, and the representatives are 
 voted more or less according to the 
 number of the parties. There are now 
 two hundred and thirty represen- 
 tatives in the Commercial Chamber, 
 and they desired the above gentlemen 
 to receive you as their substitute. 
 Nakayama Nobu-aki, President of 
 Stock Exchange, Osaka. Konoike 
 Zenyemon, originator of Stock Ex- 
 change, Osaka. Mitsai Motonoshe, 
 do. Sumitomo Kichiza-yemon, do. 
 Kasano Kumakichi, do., and owner of 
 Kow-giyo-kwaishio (where is trans- 
 acted the business for exportation). 
 Hirase Kamenoske, originator of 
 
 L 2 
 
148 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VII. 
 
 tions adverted to tlieir representative character, acted 
 in the name of their fellow-citizens, and received us with 
 great cordiality. The scene on entering the dining-chamber 
 was singular and beautiful ; excepting a few handsome 
 screens and works of art near the walls, the room had no 
 other furniture than silk cushions to sit upon, hibaehis 
 (small portable square howls containing charcoal fire) for 
 giving warmth, and smaller fire-howls for lighting the 
 small Japanese pipes, cigarettes, or cigars. But although 
 still not far from the middle of February, the evening air 
 was mild, and one side of the room was thrown entirely open 
 to an unusually large garden, with a fine sheet of artificial 
 Avater winding about it. The verandah and the garden and 
 water beyond were illuminated with hundreds of Japanese 
 lanterns, richly coloured, many of which w^ere kept moving 
 throughout the evening. We sat down about twenty in 
 number, and the banquet commenced by a few girls, quietly 
 but prettily attired, coming into the room, advancing and 
 falling upon their knees in front of us, placing handsome 
 lacquer trays with cups of tea and slices of sweet cake 
 before us, and bowing the head to the ground before 
 rising and retiring. This kind of proceeding, I may say 
 shortly, went on for several hours, the lacquered trays 
 bearing in succession soups, meats, fish, game, and all sorts 
 of vegetables daintily prepared, and served in a form that 
 enabled me to deal with them by means of chopsticks only — 
 not, I am bound to say, without the liberal use of the teeth in 
 aid thereof. There were doubtless many articles served to 
 which we in England are strangers, but sea-weed and bamboo- 
 shoots — both very palatable indeed — are all of them that I can 
 now call to mind. The universal strong drink of the country, 
 known as sake* drunk both cold and hot, was served, together 
 with European wines, and English ale and stout as desired. 
 At an early stage of the dinner poured in a stream of 
 
 Stock Exchange, Ocaka. Yamaguchi, been made and drunk in Japan for 
 Kichirobey, do. Eno-kuchi Shin- sixteen centuries. It is not usually 
 zabro, do. Kumagai Tatstaro, do. what the English would consider very 
 * This sahe, brewed from rice, has strong. 
 
CHAP. VII.] 
 
 TEE CITY OF OSAKA. 
 
 149 
 
 dancing girls arrayed in Japanese crapes and silks of the 
 brightest and most diversified colouring and pattern, with 
 hair dressed into wonders of an art that reaches its climax 
 perhaps in Osaka, and with faces and necks powdered, 
 eyebrows deepened, eyelids tinted, and lips polished with 
 vermilion enamel. There were at least five-and-twenty 
 of these pretty creations of imperial Osaka who were 
 unquestionably very choice works of art, and I am afraid 
 they cannot be considered at present as very much more. 
 It appeared on this and other occasions to be their function, 
 not merely to dance when called upon, but to sit about 
 among the diners, assist them to anything they might 
 require, and make themselves generally useful ; and as they 
 did this very nicely and successfully, I have perhaps shown 
 in this sentence that I did them some injustice in my last, 
 for which I apologise. In addition to these brilliant little 
 beings, there were numerous singing and music girls, or 
 geishas, and behind the screen some singing men besides. 
 It is difficult — it is indeed impossible for a stranger to fully 
 appreciate such musical performances as theirs, because 
 much of their merit must be due to elaborate cultivation of 
 taste. Still it was impossible to listen to such instrumental 
 and vocal music as was heard on this occasion without 
 observing qualities which must be the result of combined 
 natural endowment and high training. Beyond this, how- 
 ever, it is impossible for me to go, and I can only assert the 
 very eminent merits of the artists upon the authority of 
 my informants. The instruments used were the hoto, the 
 hogu, and the samise7i. 
 
 I cannot even give the names of the several dances, nor 
 can I presume to describe them ; suffice it to say here (as I 
 have mentioned the Japanese dances elsewhere) that they 
 began with two very young girls performing a dance in 
 masks; that the second was a dance in which the parasol 
 played a considerable part ; that the third was performed by 
 one of the very young girls, who successively made use of a 
 branch of blossoms and of two fans, which were handled 
 with a dexterity that was marvellous in so young a child. 
 
150 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VII. 
 
 The remainder were more general, most of the dancers 
 joining in them, usually with the accompaniment of hand- 
 clapping. Notwithstanding the extreme monotony of the 
 music, some of these dances were maintained for a long time, 
 and with wonderful spirit, the younger hosts and guests 
 joining more or less in them. In the course of the evening, 
 something very analogous to the drinking of healths set in 
 for a short time, hut happily was not prolonged as it is at 
 home. It will he interesting to quote the following trans- 
 lation of a brief abstract of the speech of the President, 
 Mr. Godai, the president of the chamber of commerce, who 
 was likewise the originator of the Osaka stock exchange. 
 
 He said : “ When our harbours were hardly opened, 
 foreign civilisation was unknown to us ; but after friendly 
 relations, we were gradually brought to the light, and are 
 now making progress so much that we have succeeded in 
 the formation of this Chamber, and the meeting of the 
 people. Just on the completion, I am happy to say, you 
 gratify us, Mr. Keed, with your visit, leading us to a new 
 idea by gathering ourselves to this meeting to welcome and 
 entertain you, which was never done before to any of our past 
 foreign guests. In showing you our appreciation of your 
 visit, we also give you a sight of our progress, which I am 
 glad and proud of. One thing remains in my mind, and a 
 word I must say : when his Eoyal Highness your Prince 
 [the Duke of Edinburgh] was on his visit to this empire, 
 our people were not at all well informed, and were ignorant 
 of the way how his Eoyal Highness should be welcomed 
 and entertained, and were consequently unable to afford the 
 same attentions as now. Finding ourselves now more quali- 
 fied, and having once started, I am in hope that we will 
 be able to give to all our future foreign guests of rank or 
 distinction an equal reception with that we give to you.” 
 
 I ought not to forget to mention one of the attentions 
 shown at this dinner, as it was both interesting in itself 
 and indicative of the amount of consideration which these 
 merchants of Osaka were pleased to show to us. Towards 
 the end of the dinner there was brought in and placed in 
 
CHAP. VII.] 
 
 THE CITY OF OSAKA. 
 
 151 
 
 front of me a stand about 2^ feet broad and feet long, 
 on which was modelled a beautifully coloured representation 
 of a golden pheasant, a pine-tree, some very fine large 
 flowers, with numerous small bouquets of Osaka artificial 
 flowers. This is, I was informed by one of my inter- 
 preters, a compliment only paid at weddings, and on 
 occasions of very pronounced welcome and consideration 
 to guests. The Osaka flowers were distributed among the 
 company, most of them finding their way sooner or later 
 to the vain little heads of the pretty geishas and dancing- 
 girls. A curious feature of the arrangement was, however, 
 the material of the golden pheasant and the larger flowers, 
 which were all cut out of fresh turnips, or of some similar 
 vegetable, and were so beautifully formed and coloured as 
 to present a more natural appearance than many permanent 
 works of art. The party was broken up about eleven o’clock 
 by our departure, the run home in jinrihis being made at 
 an astonishing speed, which was very agreeable to those 
 of us who had already ridden in them during the day 
 some thirty miles or more. 
 
 It is needless to prolong this account of our visit to Osaka 
 much more, although many a page might readily be filled 
 with the story of it. There are, however, a few facts and 
 incidents which must not be omitted. Among these must 
 be named another banquet, given to us this time by 
 Governor Watanabe. This was served in European style, 
 and was wonderfully well done ; but the principal charms 
 of the occasion, in addition to the perpetual charm of joyous 
 hospitality, were its Japanese features — the mottoes on the 
 wall, each a compliment and a poem ; the illuminated 
 garden ; the writings in silk from the hands of the rebel 
 Saigo and the martyr Okubo ; the many swords of the host, 
 each with its own story told, or that could be told; and 
 above all, the dramatic performances which followed the 
 banquet. For on this occasion the governor had arranged 
 for the performance of a series of dramatic pieces, mostly 
 comedies, and for the first time we became acquainted 
 with a branch of Japanese art which, however ancient in 
 
152 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VII. 
 
 itself, had not even in rumour reached us. Whether the 
 drama did or did not originate in pantomimic performances, 
 as some suppose, I know not, hut certainly in the Japanese 
 drama such performances still retain a most important 
 and prominent part. I must not, however, enter upon 
 the subject here. Whether, when I come to see more of 
 these dramatic exhibitions, I shall he able to give any 
 intelligible account of them I cannot say ; but on the 
 present occasion I must pass them over all but in silence, 
 full of extraordinary characteristics as they were. The wife 
 of our host, and an interesting child or two of theirs, were 
 present, besides the invited guests, so that one really 
 assisted at a family party as well as at a dramatic display. 
 
 Another interesting feature of our stay at Osaka was our 
 purchasing expedition. In this we were most fortunate, 
 having for our guide and friend Mr. Ohno Norichika, of the 
 imperial mint, who, in the absence of the senior officer, 
 acted as our host, and performed the duty handsomely. 
 We revelled for hours in curiosities of all descriptions (with 
 buyers’ appetites but imperfectly indulged), but the greatest 
 delight of all was among the pictures — hahemono, gaku- 
 mono, screens, pictures for screens, and volumes upon 
 volumes of artists’ work of every description. What a gift 
 it is, that of an artist ! What a power it is which he 
 possesses ! by a few swift touches of ink or colour to 
 create — or is it not truer to say to revive ? — in us the 
 image of a bird, a flower, a landscape, a sea, a storm ! 
 
 ’Tis the privilege of Art 
 Thus to play its cheerful part, 
 
 Man in earth to acclimate. 
 
 And bend the exile to his fate; 
 
 And, moulded of one element 
 With the days and firmament. 
 
 Teach him on these as stairs to climb, 
 
 And live on even terms with Time; 
 
 Whilst upper life the slender rill 
 Of human sense doth overfill.” — Emerson. 
 
 And after purchasing came the still more pleasant task — 
 in some respects, but not in all — of receiving presents. The 
 
CHAP. VII.] 
 
 THE CITY OF 08AKA. 
 
 153 
 
 governor’s liberality I have already spoken of. Mr. Ohno 
 gave us sets of the old gold and silver coins of rectangular 
 form, which make pretty necklaces for daughters. Mr. Ka- 
 sano Kumakichi, one of the merchant princes, from whom 
 we received many kindnesses, brought a beautiful specimen 
 of the large oval coins of gold, ajso of the olden time. Mr. 
 Godai sent one of my daughters a splendid glove-box of the 
 finest ancient lacquer-work ; and so forth. 
 
 But I must not conclude this account of Osaka without 
 a word of appreciation of the fine buildings and beautiful 
 machinery of the imperial mint. Most of the machinery 
 was imported, of course, from Europe, and erected and 
 originally worked under European care ; but the number 
 of Europeans now remaining is limited, I believe, to one 
 or two, and the smaller machines now required are manu- 
 factured in the country. The skill with which the various 
 departments are carried on by natives is very remarkable, 
 some of the duties in which special dexterity and quickness 
 of eye are necessary being performed in a manner which 
 could hardly, if at all, be matched by any other people. 
 The trial of the pyx is carried out as with us, and the 
 results checked in some foreign countries. The modern 
 coins are very handsomely designed. The national tradi- 
 tions oppose the stamping of the image of the divinely 
 descended Mikado upon them, and some time will probably 
 yet elapse before this is brought about. His majesty’s 
 imperial and family crests or badges, the hihu and hiri, 
 with wreaths and tassels and bannerets bearing the sun 
 and the moon, adorn one side of the gold coins, which are five 
 in number ; the other side being decorated with a splendid 
 dragon and legend round. The silver coins bear a similar 
 dragon and legend on one side, and the hihu crest with 
 wreaths and tassels, and the coin’s denomination on the 
 other. All but the smallest coins in gold and silver have 
 milled edges. The new silver “ trade dollar ” does not 
 greatly differ in appearance, nor in size and weight, from 
 the “ one yen ” piece, the ^jen being the Japanese dollar. 
 It has lately been notified that the trade dollar, which was 
 
154 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VII. 
 
 originally coined for the convenience of commerce at the 
 open ports, and was current only at those ports, will hence- 
 forth he made universally current, and may therefore he 
 used in making and receiving payments of taxes and in all 
 other public and private transactions, both internal as well 
 as external. The bronze coins do not differ materially in 
 design from those of silver, hut none of their edges are 
 milled. The following are the coins struck at the mint, 
 viz. : — 
 
 Gold. 
 
 Silver. 
 
 Copper, 
 
 20 Yen 
 
 1 Yen 
 
 2 Sen 
 
 10 Yen 
 
 Trade 
 
 1 Sen 
 
 5 Yen 
 
 50 Sen 
 
 2 Sen 
 
 2 Yen 
 
 20 Sen 
 
 1 Kin 
 
 1 Yen 
 
 10 Sen 
 ’ 5 Sen 
 
 
 Up to the middle of last year (1878) there had been 
 coined at the Osaka mint nearly 3,000,000 ounces of gold, 
 23,000,000 ounces of silver, and 91,000,000 of copper coins, 
 of a total value of about 83,000,000 dollars, or nearly 
 £17,000,000 sterling. The weight and number of gold. 
 
 silver, and bronze 
 
 coins struck during last 
 
 year (ending 
 
 June 30, 1878) were as follows : — 
 
 
 Denomination. 
 
 Weight. 
 Troy oz. 
 
 Number. 
 
 Gold 20 Yen . 
 
 32-15 . 
 
 30 
 
 „ 10 Yen . 
 
 19-83 . 
 
 37 
 
 „ 5 Yen . 
 
 19,080-55 . 
 
 71,216 
 
 „ 2 Yen . 
 
 19-20 . 
 
 179 
 
 „ 1 Yen . 
 
 9-12 . 
 
 170 
 
 Silver Trade Dollar . 
 
 382,103-14 . 
 
 436,673 
 
 „ 50 Sen . 
 
 79,927-67 . 
 
 184,440 
 
 „ 20 Sen 
 
 . 1,235,448-20 . 
 
 . 7,127,562 
 
 „ 10 Sen , 
 
 . 1,177,548-05 . 
 
 . 13,586,479 
 
 „ 5 Sen . 
 
 622,548-78 . 
 
 . 14,365,849 
 
 Copper 2 Sen 
 
 . 13,322,015-60 . 
 
 . 29,080,239 
 
 „ 1 Sen . 
 
 , 5,597,486-60 . 
 
 . 24,422,948 
 
 „ i Sen . 
 
 . 3,060,440-40 . 
 
 . 26,709,834 
 
 „ Kin 
 
 670-80 
 
 23,000 
 
( J55 ) 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE SACRED CITY OF NARA. 
 
 Interest felt in the city — View of the people — Men of average stature, 
 women small — Picturesque children — Visit to Sakai — Eoad to Nara — 
 Shadoofs — Burial-places of the Mikados — Tomb of the war-god Ojin — 
 Eaised river-beds — Village graveyards — Scenery — Eiver navigation — 
 The ancient temples of Hori-uji — Eelic of Buddha — Carvings of Prince 
 Shotoku — First view of Nara — Careful cultivation of the land — Our 
 tern pie- abode — The great temple of Dai-hutsu — ^The colossal god of bronze 
 and gold — The supporters of the god — Historic relics — Footprint of 
 Buddha — Temples of Kwannon — A fine landscape — A tea-house — More 
 Buddhist and Shinto temples — Courtesy and hospitality of the priests 
 — Temple avenues — Dance of the virgin priestesses — An ancient pine- 
 tree — Curiosity shops — Eeturn start — Site and limits of the ancient 
 city — Group of Shinto temples near Sakai — A Japanese interior — More 
 hospitality — Osaka again. 
 
 It was in consequence of a strong desire of my own to visit 
 Nara that our trip to that ancient city was undertaken. 
 Knowing that it had been the capital city of Japan more 
 than one thousand years ago, that it still contained the 
 celebrated monster image of the great Buddha, that its 
 temples, shrines, and ecclesiastical treasures were of high 
 antiquity, and that it could he reached in a few hours from 
 Osaka, I suggested that it would he a mistake to pass it hy 
 unobserved. The suggestion was immediately taken up hy 
 my friends, who at once set about the necessary arrange- 
 ments. I should have been quite satisfied to take the 
 chance of such accommodation as might be found there, but 
 the auspices under which I was seeing the country put this 
 out of the question. My first idea was to start very early 
 in the morning, and return the same day, employing relays 
 of jinrihi men ; but this was considered to be, if not im- 
 
156 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VIII. 
 
 practicable, at least very undesirable, especially as the days 
 were still short and the weather uncertain. It was there- 
 fore resolved to start about ten o’clock on Wednesday, 21st 
 of February, proceeding by the roundabout route through 
 Sakai on account of that being much less hilly than the 
 direct route, and therefore preferable for the draught-men, 
 though of greater length. Sakai was only about seven and 
 a half English miles from our residence in Osaka, but it 
 was arranged for us to visit a carpet-manufactory and to 
 take tiffin at the house of a gentleman there, with the 
 mayor of Sakai, performing the rest of the journey before 
 our evening dinner. 
 
 It was a lovely morning when we started, with a warm 
 spring sun shining, and even the men who had to drag us 
 the twenty-seven miles to Nara — for they themselves ob- 
 jected to the employment of relays — were merry and glad 
 as we rattled out of the imperial mint compound, a party of 
 about i\NQ\YQjinrihi-slias, some of the younger and smaller men 
 riding double, with three men to each jinrihi^ except where 
 the loads were light and where two sufficed. The greater 
 part of the city of Osaka had to be traversed, and a very 
 large city it proved to be. In crossing the space between 
 its southern boundary and Sakai, including many suburban 
 places, we seemed to be passing through an almost - con- 
 tinuous town, until we reached the boundary bridge of 
 Sakai, where the secretary of the governor of the district, 
 and the head of the district police, met us, and undertook 
 the conduct of the party for the rest of the journey. The 
 whole town of Sakai appeared to have heard of the visit, and 
 to have turned out along the line of route to inspect and, let 
 us hope, to admire us — a circumstance which gave us the 
 great advantage of returning the compliment by observing 
 and admiring them. It was an excellent opportunity, as it 
 proved — this trip to Nara, during which I saw no European 
 face whatever, except my son’s — to see the people of the 
 country as they daily live and move among themselves. We 
 noticed in Sakai, as we had already done in Osaka, that the 
 notion of the Japanese being almost universally a small race 
 
CHAP. VIII.] TEE SACRED CITY OF NARA. 
 
 157 
 
 of men and women is altogether an erroneous one, the 
 majority being of fair average height, and many of them 
 men of a size and height which were much above the average 
 European standard. I think the women were, however, on 
 the whole, smaller in proportion to the size of the men than 
 would he usual among ourselves. The most picturesque and 
 amusing beings, however, in Japan, are not the men nor the 
 women, hut the children, owing to the bright colouring and 
 the infinite variety of pattern of the stuff of which their 
 dresses are made, and the quaint old-fashioned look which 
 the dress gives Them as they toddle about (especially, I 
 presume, in the winter season, when they wear more clothes), 
 with their little shaved heads, chubby faces, and jet-black 
 eyes. These youngsters, during their earliest years, are 
 always, apparently, mounted upon somebody else, either in 
 front or behind, usually slung when very young with hands 
 and face snugly nestled in the open bosoms of their mothers, 
 sometimes similarly but less warmly suspended upon their 
 fathers. A little later on in life they take to the hacks of 
 their fathers and mothers, and more often still to those of 
 their little brothers and sisters, this form of family affection 
 being carried to such an extent that the two brats — the 
 rider and the ridden — are so near of an age that one some- 
 times fancies they must he taking it in turns, and carrying 
 one another. I may say in passing that I have hut one 
 very strong objection to these little life- visitors to the sun- 
 rise-land, and that is that they do not, as a rule, get their 
 little noses attended to nearly often enough, though even 
 in that matter they are, perhaps, “ more sinned against than 
 sinning.” In visiting the carpet-factory, where a consider- 
 able manufacture of carpets and rugs for export is springing 
 up, and taking an excellent mixed tiffin of Japanese and 
 European dishes as the guest of the mayor, Mr. Saisho — a 
 pleasant, meditative gentleman, in whom the spirit of 
 antiquity seemed to live still, and who kindly exhibited to 
 us some exceeding old bronzes and other objects of interest 
 — we took our final departure for Nara at a quarter past one, 
 facing eastward for the hills. Our road lay at first up a 
 
158 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VIII. 
 
 short hill and over an open plain, which presented a peculiar 
 appearance, from the number of i^hacloofs (levers for raising 
 water from pits and distributing it over the land), which 
 stood up like light masts by hundreds ; the ground here 
 being above the river levels, and therefore requiring special 
 means for its irrigation. As the level of the land crossed 
 became lower, these shadoofs became fewer in number, and 
 before long altogether disappeared. The ranges of hills in 
 front • of us were extremely picturesque ; the landscape 
 between them and us was liberally supplied with trees ; 
 occasionally there stood up out of the plain large artificial 
 mounds, surmounted with clumps of pine-trees, and sur- 
 rounded with moats ; rivers and sheets of water brightened 
 the land ; torii and temple roofs attracted the eye to many 
 a village and shrine ; the people, catching sight of our 
 advancing procession of jinrihi-shas (and perhaps apprised 
 by the local police, who evidently expected us, of the 
 passage of some Europeans- — to them a very unusual sight), 
 swarmed in the village streets, or hurried across the fields 
 from all quarters, to catch sight of us as we passed; and 
 over all the pretty moving scene, a sun, warm as that of 
 our English summer, poured down its refulgence, animating 
 and cheering the hearts of all. The raised mounds which 
 I have mentioned, and of which we saw many on the road 
 to Nara, and in its neighbourhood, are the burial-places 
 of deceased Mikados, and are, as a matter of course, I 
 presume, made the sites of Shinto shrines. One of them, 
 concerning which I happened to inquire particularly, was 
 the tomb of Inkiyo, the twentieth Mikado of the present 
 dynasty, who reigned in the beginning of the fifth century 
 (a.d.), and another, that of the twenty-second of the line, 
 who reigned in the same century. In a wood seen on our 
 right hand was the burial-place of the war-god, Ojin-Tenno, 
 one of the most famous of the still earlier Mikados, the six- 
 teenth of the dynasty. In accordance with Japanese practice, 
 this Mikado, who reigned in the third century, a.d. like the 
 others, became worshipped as a god after his death, but the 
 deification appears to have been founded in his case upon 
 
CHAP. VIII.] 
 
 THE SACRED CITY OF NARA. 
 
 159 
 
 very- substantial deeds and services. He was, as before stated, 
 the son of the warrior-queen Jingu Kogo, who conquered 
 Korea with such important results to her own country. 
 “ Through this peninsula, and not directly from China,” 
 says Mr. Griffis,* “ flowed the influences whose confluence 
 with the elements of Japanese life produced the civilisa- 
 tion which for twelve centuries has run its course in the 
 island empire. ... To a woman is awarded the glory of 
 the conquest of Korea, whence came letters, religion, and 
 civilisation to Japan. In all Japanese traditions or history 
 there is no greater female character than the empress Jingu 
 (god-like exploit). Her name was Okinaga Tarashihime ; 
 but she is better known by her posthumous title of Jingu 
 Kogo, or Jingu, the wife or spouse of the Mikado. She was 
 equally renowned for her beauty, piety, intelligence, energy, 
 and martial valour. She was not only very obedient to the 
 gods, but they delighted to honour her with their inspira- 
 tion. She feared neither the waves of the sea, the arrows of 
 the battle-field, nor the difficulties that wait on all great 
 enterprises. Great as she was in her own person, she is 
 greater in the Japanese eyes as the mother of the god of 
 war [Ojin Tenno].” A good deal of the miraculous is mixed 
 up in their recorded history of Jingu and her great son Ojin ; 
 they are taken by Japanese scholars, nevertheless, to be 
 undoubtedly historical characters, and are worshipped in 
 many temples in Japan, the empress-mother as “ Kashii dai 
 mio jin,” and the son as the god of war himself. “ Down 
 through the centuries,” continues the author just quoted, 
 “ he has been worshipped by all classes of the people, 
 especially by soldiers, who offer their prayers, pay their 
 vows, and raise their votive offerings to him. Many of the 
 troops, before taking steamer for Formosa, in 1874, implored 
 his protection. In his honour some of the most magnificent 
 temples in Japan have been erected, and almost every town 
 and village, as well as many a rural grove and hill, has its 
 shrine erected to the Japanese Mars. He is usually repre- 
 
 * In ‘ The Mikado’s Empire.’ 
 
160 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VIII. 
 
 sented in his images as of a frightful, scowling countenance, 
 holding, with arms akimbo, a broad two-edged sword. One 
 of the favourite subjects of Japanese artists of all periods is 
 the group of figures consisting of the snowy-bearded Take- 
 nouchi, in civil dress, holding the infant of Jingu Kogo in 
 his arms, the mother standing by in martial robes. . . . The 
 Buddhists have canonised him, Ojin, as Hachiman Dai 
 Bosatsu,* or the Incarnation of Buddha of the Eight Banners. 
 Hence, among the devotees of the India faith, this god of 
 war and patron of warriors is called Hachiman. . . . Hachi- 
 man (Iiachi, eight ; man, banners) is the Chinese form of 
 Yawata (ya, eight ; wata, banners).” 
 
 On this trip to Nara, as on some former occasions, we 
 crossed several rivers the beds of which have in the course 
 of centuries been raised considerably above the level of the 
 adjacent country, the banks being raised, of course, still 
 higher. In some cases the high road now passes under the 
 river bed by a level tunnel. 
 
 At 2.30 p.M. we passed from the open plain, through 
 orchards of peach-trees and orange-trees, into the hilly 
 district, where the country became more picturesque and 
 beautiful than before. By the roadside, and entirely open 
 to road and field, were little village burial-places, with 
 tomb-stones, usually of low and small square columns of 
 granite, but sometimes of unshaped or roughly-shaped slabs 
 of stone with figures sculptured on one side. On the hill- 
 sides, often embedded in the woods, were small temples and 
 shrines, which certainly lent themselves freely to the pic- 
 turesque and the artistic, whatever may be thought of them 
 as instruments of religion. 
 
 At 2.45 we stopped at the village of Kokubu, to rest the 
 jinrihi men, and to refresh ourselves with cups of Japanese 
 tea, speedily resuming our journey, our course leading us 
 through as pretty a hill-country as can be desired, with a 
 swift river rushing past the road. On this river were 
 extremely shallow boats (carrying land-produce and other 
 
 See footnote, vol. i. p. 264. 
 
CHAP. VIII.] 
 
 THE SACRED CITY OF NARA. 
 
 161 
 
 goods), propelled sometimes by sails aided by pushing-poles, 
 sometimes by the latter alone, and almost as frequently by 
 the still more primitive method of the boatmen walking up 
 the stream and dragging their boat with them. Much of 
 this river traffic was in charcoal, and in wood cut in the 
 neighbouring forests, prepared for conversion into charcoal. 
 Our road afterwards stretched across a beautiful valley, 
 from which one could at intervals catch distant glimpses of 
 what proved afterwards to be Nara, while away on the right, 
 on a lofty mountain summit, a white village gleamed like a 
 group of silver shrines. The road lay through many more 
 villages, the inhabitants of which were inferior to none in 
 the interest they took in our long and rapid and noisy 
 procession, led by our Sakai chief of police, Nara being 
 situated in the Sakai district. 
 
 At the village of Tatsuta we turned off to visit the famous 
 and ancient Buddhist temples of Horiuji, where we were 
 most courteously received by the two principal priests and 
 other officials, who hospitably entertained us with tea and 
 cakes. This group of temples, with a pagoda, were all twelve 
 hundred years old, and bore the marks of their age both 
 externally and internally.* They possessed some wonderful 
 treasures — after the fashion of many of our Christian temples 
 in Europe — the most precious of all being a piece — an 
 extremely small piece, but still a piece — of the very bone of 
 Buddha himself ! I am not quite sure, but I have some 
 reason to think that this most precious relic, which our 
 unworthy eyes were permitted to behold, is no other than 
 that which was held in the clenched hand of Prince Shoto- 
 ku-taishi when he was born, and was revealed when at the 
 age of two years he turned to the east, invoked Buddha, 
 and displayed this very wonderful proof of heavenly favour. 
 The valuable and wonder-working relic was inclosed in a 
 small crystal globe, within which you could both see and 
 hear it as the globe was shaken, the sacred crystal sphere 
 being supported on a stand of crystal, and surmounted with 
 
 * For mention of tlie founding of these temples, see vol. i. p. 79. 
 VOL. II. 
 
 M 
 
162 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VIII. 
 
 a crystal crown-piece. Every day at twelve o’clock the 
 people were permitted to see and bow before this unquestion- 
 able evidence of the greatest verity of Buddhism, the mission 
 of Buddha himself to the earth ! As shown to us, this 
 treasure was set out upon a splendid silk cloth, thickly 
 embroidered with gold, and adorned with cords and tassels, 
 which may have had a significance too profound for me. 
 Another very valuable treasure, which the priests generously 
 allowed us to examine closely, in the inmost centre of the 
 shrine itself, and with a candle to illuminate it, was an 
 image in wood of the son of the famous Shotoku-taishi, 
 carved by the hand of that great personage himself. There 
 were also numerous w^ooden idols of ancient date, some of 
 them reminding one of the very old Egyptian gods, carved 
 in wood and with painted eyes, etc., with which Mariette 
 Bey has enriched the museum at Boulak, near Cairo. Chief 
 of all was the celebrated image of Buddha, on the back of 
 which is the ancient and unreadable Chinese inscription 
 mentioned in the previous chapter on the God-period.* There 
 were those likewise which Shotoku-taishi is said to have carved 
 and borne upon his head after the army when a youth. 
 
 In a separate temple, which appeared to have been 
 specially patronised by the grateful classes, and which was 
 probably dedicated (although I was not so informed) to the 
 great god Ojin, whom I just now referred to, were countless 
 swords, bows, mirrors, lanterns, gimlets, or something of that 
 sort, and other articles which faithful Buddhists had thought 
 it well to present and leave behind in this place. It was 
 impossible at the time, and is as impossible now, to do 
 justice to the treasures of these temples, from which we 
 had to hurry away Nara- wards. Our way lay through a 
 beautiful valley, with lofty hills falling behind us, and 
 loftier ranges in front of us, and villages scattered freely 
 throughout its extent. I take from my note-book the 
 following remark, jotted down at this point : “ Along the 
 near side and at the foot of yonder hills are so many towns 
 
 * See footnote, vol. i. p. 21. 
 
CHAP. VIII,] 
 
 THE SACRED CITY OF NARA. 
 
 163 
 
 or villages that they seem to be almost continuous for 
 many miles. It must he in this lovely valley — lovely as we 
 advance, lovely as we look hack — that Nara lies, and I do 
 not doubt that one or other of the clusters of buildings that 
 we see is it.” This proved afterwards to be so, Nara being 
 the largest town then visible on the left or north of the 
 landscape, hut still several miles distant. Unlike those of 
 most Japanese villages that I had previously seen, the houses 
 in this part of the country, and chiefly in and near Nara 
 itself, are made white, and are consequently much more 
 visible at long distances, and in certain lights, than they 
 would otherwise he. • 
 
 All along the route thus far pursued the country had 
 been remarkable for the care and closeness of the cultivation, 
 and we subsequently found that this continued all the way 
 to the old city which we were seeking, and doubtless is a 
 characteristic of Japanese agriculture, at least near the 
 lines of the great high roads. It may be confidently said 
 that the whole of the low ground, and most of the hillside, 
 where not wooded, was cultivated as thoroughly as an 
 English kitchen garden, throughout the journey from Osaka, 
 by Sakai, to Nara. 
 
 The sun disappeared behind the hills before half past five, 
 and it was already nearly dark when we passed through the 
 large and important town of Koriyama ; but again the good 
 people of 'the place lined the streets for our inspection. 
 The air began to get decidedly cold, and when we were still 
 tv/o or three miles from our destination rain began to fall, 
 and continued to the end of our journey. To cheer their 
 flagging energies the jinrihi-sha men multiplied their re- 
 sponsive noises among themselves, and quickened the pace 
 withal. At length we passed between two large illuminated 
 stone lanterns, which proved to be the beginning of the 
 present town of Nara, the whole length of which had, 
 however, to be travelled, as we were bound to Tonain, the 
 temple- residence of the chief priest of Nara, Tsuzaka Senkai, 
 which is situated within the gate of the great temple of 
 Dai-hutsu. Chilled and hungry, we gladly stepped at last 
 
 M 2 
 
164 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VIII. 
 
 from our jmrih'fi, and entered a beautiful residence of pure 
 Japanese type, in one of tbe principal rooms of which we 
 saw framed and hung an inscription written by the hand of 
 the present Mikado, signifying “ residence of the pure,” or 
 something of that kind. It appears that this house had 
 been occupied by his majesty during his visit to Nara some 
 little time ago. All those parts of the house which we saw 
 were very new, and elegantly furnished, and probably owed 
 much of their superiority in these respects to the fact of his 
 majesty having sojourned in it. However that may be, it 
 was an extremely pleasant retreat for our present party, 
 and made the more so by the speedy serving of an excellent 
 dinner. It was not at a very late hour that we made a 
 further retreat to our beds (on the floor, of course), there, in 
 my own case at least, to sleep the sleep of the grateful. 
 
 A cup of tea at seven o’clock, with a breeze of fresh 
 morning air let in from the hills, were the pleasant be- 
 ginnings of the next day at Nara, which proved so delight- 
 ful that we shall never quite forget it, I hope. The rain 
 had gone, and the sun was shining brightly and warmly 
 as I stepped out upon the verandah and looked abroad. 
 A pretty Japanese garden, with winding water, artistically 
 trained trees and shrubs — the more cherished ones just 
 opening their fragrant blossoms here and there — and gravel 
 paths raked into ornamental patterns, with a background 
 of green and of wooded mountain slopes rising high above all, 
 composed the pleasant picture we looked upon, and from 
 which, refreshed with sleep, one gladly drew further refresh- 
 ment still. We had already decided to devote the whole 
 day to Nara, returning the following day, but nevertheless 
 there was no time to lose ; therefore, breakfast over, we 
 started on our tour of the temples, guided by experienced 
 officers, and attended by a pleasant set of Japanese com- 
 panions and interpreters. Besides a few European coats 
 upon some of our conductors, there was nothing to break 
 in upon the aspect which this part of the old city had worn 
 Jbr more than a thousand years. 
 
 On leaving the grounds of our temporary residence, we 
 
CHAP. VIII.] 
 
 THE SACRED CITY OF NAB A. 
 
 165 
 
 stepped at once into the shadow of that huge structure the 
 great gate of the temple of Dai-hutsu — an immense and 
 imposing pile, containing two of the colossal carved gate- 
 keepers or kings previously described, of very forbidding 
 aspect and attitude, but who were less hideous than others 
 of the kind. This great gateway was on our left ; on our 
 right, at a distance of three to four hundred yards, was 
 another gateway to the great temple, the broad road between 
 the two gateways having wide grassy spaces on either side, 
 from which spring many ancient and lofty old trees. The 
 space between the two gates is therefore a broad and beauti- 
 ful promenade for the greater part of the year. Our first 
 visit was to the famous temple of the Great Buddha. As 
 usual in approaches to Japanese temples, there are several 
 shops near to the temple itself. In the centre of the large 
 open space between the lesser gateway and the temple is an 
 immense and very old bronze lantern, large enough for a 
 man to stand in. This lantern was presented to the temple 
 by the renowned hero and statesman Yoritomo, who died in 
 the year 1199, and is seven hundred years old. It is in 
 daily use still. This temple was originally founded and the 
 immense image made by the Mikado Shomu, the forty-sixth 
 of the present line of emperors, and the third of Nara, who 
 died 748 a.d. The temple was destroyed seven hundred years 
 ago, in the terrible civil wars of the twelfth century, and 
 again seriously injured, so that the head of the god had to be 
 recast, in the seventeenth century. The great gateway, how- 
 ever, with most of the other buildings of this great temple, 
 have escaped such injuries, and although constructed of wood 
 have stood as they now stand for more than eleven centuries. 
 
 The interest of this place centres, of course, in the great 
 god of bronze and gold, who (subject to the mischances just 
 mentioned) has been the wonder of Japan for so many ages 
 past. It has been positively stated by some that a consider- 
 able amount of gold entered into his composition, but those 
 on the spot seem to be uncertain as to whether the gold 
 employed in making him was mixed with the bronze of 
 which he is cast, or applied superficially to him. That much 
 
166 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VIII. 
 
 lias been applied in the latter way there can be no doubt, and 
 in places in which the gold is visible, and which I closely 
 examined, it seemed to me that it conformed to an external 
 line of ornament in each case, which would indicate that it 
 was superficial only. The dimensions of this god are truly 
 colossal. His height from the base of the sacred lotus-flower 
 on which he sits to the top of his head is 63J feet, and 
 above this rises a halo 14 feet wide, above which again rises 
 for several feet the flame-like glory which arches in the 
 whole figure. The face proper is 16 feet long, its width 
 9^ feet. The eyes are 3 feet 9 inches long, the eyebrows 
 feet, the ears 8^ feet. The chest is 20 feet in depth. Its 
 middle finger is 5 feet long. Around the head, shoulders, 
 and sides of the god, in front of the halo, are sixteen sitting 
 figures, said to be 8 feet long. The leaves of the immense 
 lotus on which he sits are each 10 feet long and 6 feet wude, 
 and there are fifty-six of them.* The casting must have 
 been wonderfully well executed, although the fineness of the 
 leaf-edges, and other parts which we were able to examine, 
 and the elaborate engraving which can be traced upon 
 the lotus-leaves in the uninjured parts, leave no doubt that 
 the founder’s art was elaborately supplemented by the file 
 and graver. The countenance of the god is less mild and calm 
 
 * “ This idol was first cast in the 
 year 743. It was twice destroyed 
 during the time of wars in its neigh- 
 bourhood, and the idol which at pre- 
 sent exists was erected about seven 
 hundred years ago. The casting of this 
 idol was tried seven successive times 
 before it was successively accomplished, 
 and about 3000 tons of charcoal were 
 used in the operation. The total 
 weight of metal is about 450 tons, 
 and it consists of the following in- 
 gredients : — 
 
 Gold . . 500 lbs. avoirdupois. 
 
 Tin . . 16,827 „ » 
 
 IMercury . 1,954 „ „ 
 
 Copper . 986,080 „ „ 
 
 1,005,361 lbs. 
 
 “ It is cast in pieces, and these pieces 
 are joined together by a kind of solder 
 called handaroo, and which answers 
 its purpose very satisfactorily. . . . 
 The various pieces composing the 
 hnage are not fitted together in a 
 very finished manner, but the cement 
 keeps the joints perfectly tight and 
 close. The whole construction is one 
 whieli shows great skill and original 
 genius in the mixture of metals, and 
 in the methods of casting them, and 
 it is further one which will, no doubt, 
 be a source of pride and gratification 
 to the Japanese people for many cen- 
 turies to come.”— E. H. Bruuton 
 Esq., C.E., on ‘ Constructive Art in 
 Japan,’ in ‘Transactions’ of Asiatic 
 Society of J apan. 
 
CHAP. VIII.] 
 
 THE SACRED CITY OF NARA. 
 
 167 
 
 of expression than is usual in images of Buddha. The right 
 hand is open and raised upwards, the left rests on the lap. 
 
 The surroundings of this enormous image are interesting, 
 some of them very beautiful. On his right hand is a very 
 large image of Kokuzo, and on his left one of the goddess 
 Kwannon, who here seems to occupy a more pronounced and 
 immediate association with Buddha than usual. In this 
 temple of Dai-butsu, as in many others, there are magnificent 
 bronze vases, some plain and some richly gilded, and many 
 bronze lanterns of equal merit and value. There are also 
 many treasures of antiquity, which we had an excellent 
 opportunity of inspecting as fully as time permitted, as they 
 were arranged in order around the temple in anticipation of 
 an exhibition shortly to be held. Among them were writings 
 of the ancient Mikados defined and preserved by the engrav- 
 ing of the surrounding parts ; some of the weapons used in 
 the invasion of Korea by the empress Jingu Kogo, including 
 a large and powerful bow, said to have been that of the 
 empress herself. There was also the imperial standard of 
 the Mikado Go-Daigo, of the fourteenth century, and the door 
 from the Mikado’s palace on which the famous patriot Nanko, 
 or Kusunoki Masashige, inscribed with the point of an arrow 
 some parting words expressive of his apprehension that he 
 would not return from the war to which he was going, of his 
 devotion to the Mikado, and of his hope that his name would 
 live long in the history of his country. The characters of 
 this inscription are well preserved and perfectly legible. I 
 obtained from the priests what is known to many as a “ rub ” 
 of this inscription. On a later day, going from Osaka to 
 Kioto, the governor of Osaka was good enough to point out to 
 me a pine-tree in the village of Sakurai as the spot on which 
 this warrior, Nanko, took leave of his son before he went 
 
 “Far down to that great battle in the west,” 
 
 near to Hiogo, where, his counsels being rejected, he was 
 grievously defeated. He gave to his son, a boy of thirteen, 
 the sword presented to him by the Mikado, desired him to 
 fight for the Mikado as he had done, and was about to do. 
 
168 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. Vlll 
 
 he believed for the last time, and urged him to avenge his 
 death when he was gone. After his defeat he put an end to 
 his life by committing hara-hiri, and a large number of his 
 followers imitated his example, as previously stated. It is 
 said that the son desired to do the same, but being prevented 
 by his mother became a soldier a few years afterwards, and, 
 like his father, fought and died for his sovereign.* 
 
 But I must hasten over these treasures, some of which 
 were very remarkable indeed. There was, for example (and 
 if I mix up the historic and the fabulous in my summary, 
 the Nara priests must be responsible for the incongruity), — 
 there was a sacred stone with a deep indentation of the very 
 foot of Buddha himself — a very large foot, and that of an 
 extremely weighty personage, judging by the impression made 
 in the granite. There were also no less than four pieces of 
 the bones of Buddha, and some of the eating vessels, incense 
 burners, and other articles employed by him when on earth ; 
 and a few articles likewise that had belonged to his apostles. 
 There was a wooden image of Kwannon, and a bronze shrine 
 of hers, of the date of the thirty-third emperor, who reigned 
 in the sixth century, and therefore before the introduction 
 of Buddhism into Japan. This shrine, thirteen hundred 
 years old, was beautifully adorned with engraved figures, 
 and otherwise. There was an old bell or sounding plate, 
 giving out different sounds when struck in different places, 
 and five metallic mirrors over one thousand years old. 
 There was an ancient tray, upon which had been written, 
 between one thousand and eleven hundred years ago, what 
 is pronounced by specialists to be the most perfect writing 
 in Japan— although what standards the specialists set up I 
 am at a loss to imagine. It is the production of Kobo 
 Daishi, a very eminent scholar and priest, who went to 
 Korea and China to study there the knowledge and religion 
 of that period, and brought back an eminent zeal for the 
 Buddhist faith, afterwards founding in Japan the sect known 
 as that of Shin Gon, as previously related. He was the 
 
 * See vol. i. chap, viii., on “The Hojo Domination.” 
 
CHAP. VIII.] 
 
 THE SACRED CITY OF NAR A. 
 
 1G9 
 
 author of a Ja2">anese alphabet, which he introduced very 
 early in the ninth century of our era.* There was also an 
 extremely vigorous contemporary drawing illustrating the 
 rebuilding of this great temple, the principal subject being 
 the transport of an immense log of timber, which was 
 carried upon a four-wheeled truck, and drawn by a large 
 crowd of men. Instead of a whip wherewith to lash the 
 hauling crowd — as in the clever picture, and no less clever 
 imitation, by Mr. Tenniel of ‘ The Israelites in Egypt ’ — the 
 principal character in the picture was armed only with a 
 (johei,^ goheis being, in fact, so far as I could see, the only 
 stimulants brought to bear upon the labourers. There were 
 also some large and magnificent wood carvings, among them 
 being one of the martyred scholar and prime minister 
 Sugawara Michizane, whose banishment was brought about by 
 intrigue in 903 a.d. Here again was a box in which a prince 
 imperial had been put six hundred years ago, and covered 
 with sacred Buddhist writings, and thus smuggled out of 
 the power of his enemies ; here one of a million little turned 
 models of a quasi-pagoda which were distributed twelve 
 hundred years ago at the founding of the neighbouring 
 temple of Horiuji (already spoken of), each containing a 
 passage from the Buddhist scriptures ; here the model of 
 the pagoda of that temple of the same date, made before the 
 pagoda itself was erected, and here boxes of MS. Buddhist 
 scriptures thirteen hundred years old, inscribed in gold on 
 
 * “ There is another arrangement was contrived for the purpose of 
 of the Japanese syllabary, said to have facilitating the memorising of the 
 been invented by the priest Kobo- syllabary. Being divided into words, 
 
 daishi, who was one of the most the whole composes the following 
 
 celebrated Japanese scholars. It celebrated stanza : — 
 
 ‘ I-ro-ha ni-ho-he-to chi-ri-nu-ru-wo 
 Wa-ga-yo ta-re-so tsu-ne-ra-u 
 Wi-no-o-ku ya-ma ke-fu-ko-ye-te 
 A-sa-ki yu-me mi-shi e-hi-se-su.’ 
 
 From the first three letters in this — ‘ Outline History of Education in 
 arrangement the syllabary is com- Japan ’ (Philadelphia Exhibit), 
 monly called the I-ro-ha, just as the f A Japanese religious emblem, as 
 English word alphabet has been de- elsewhere explained, 
 rived from the first two Greek letters.” 
 
170 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. vm. 
 
 blue paper. The imperial family, in addition to its dis- 
 tinction as a dynasty lasting through so many centuries, 
 and to its many other claims to notice, has distinguished 
 itself apparently' by producing a wonderful member of the 
 house, who became a hermit, and acquired the remarkable 
 power of eating a certain kind of fish, and then breathing 
 out images of Buddha from his holy lips. An image of this 
 sainted personage is to be seen here. ]\[ore historical pos- 
 sibly are the fragments of clothes worn at Nara when it was 
 the capital of the empire eleven hundred years ago. It 
 struck me as a noteworthy fact that the modern spirit has 
 penetrated Japan so thoroughly that an exhibition of modern 
 works and educational appliances was to be held not only in 
 this odd, out-of-the-world city, in the centre of the country, 
 but in the very temple wdiich for more than one thousand 
 years had been signalised for the colossal character of the 
 idol which there was worshipped. 
 
 Leaving the great temple of Dai-butsu, we ascended a very 
 long flight of steps, and proceeded to see and hear the large 
 bell, weighing over thirty tons, of the same date as the 
 temple. It was slung too low, owing to an error in the 
 building, and, consequently, was struck below the boss 
 intended to receive the blow, and from this cause possibly, 
 although the sound was mellow and prolonged, it was 
 not pure. 
 
 We next visited the temples of Nigetsu, dedicated to 
 the goddess Kwannon, who appears under various con- 
 ditions in her temples. The first temple on this spot 
 was the shrine of an image found eleven hundred and 
 twenty-eight years ago, but the building was burnt 
 down and rebuilt one hundred years ago. The approaches 
 to and grounds about this temple were remarkable, even 
 among those of similar shrines in Japan, for^ the extra- 
 ordinary number, variety, and beauty of their toro (fixed 
 lanterns), in stone and bronze. It is not possible to convey 
 readily in words a true idea of the extent to which this 
 system of presenting lanterns to temples is here carried, 
 or a true impression of the beauty of many of them. 
 
The Great Temple of Dai-butsu, at Nara. to face page mo, voi. ii. 
 
. » 
 
 
 
CHAP. VIII.] 
 
 THE SACEED CITY OF NAEA. 
 
 171 
 
 especially those in bronze. It really would almost appear 
 that the ingenuity of man, moving within certain con- 
 ventional limits of size and form, had exhausted itself in 
 giving variety to them. Even those of stone exhibit great 
 differences of design, and are often beautifully ornamented 
 with carving and engraving. 
 
 I must observe in passing that the landscape view from 
 the hillsides on which these temples stand is peculiarly 
 tine, and it was refreshing — both at Nara and elsewhere, 
 while visiting a succession of temples, and observing the 
 infinite pains men have taken to get away from the simple 
 elements of religious feeling and worship, and to indulge 
 the rudest and wildest fancies in setting up their own 
 emblems of what is divine — to step occasionally into the 
 open air, in view of some beautiful stretch of scenery, and 
 there, lit with the sun and blown on by the breeze, to he 
 thankful that the power of enjoying the world and works 
 of God is still continued to us. Under such conditions, 
 even the distant temples and pagodas — being distant — 
 seemed scarcely to hurt the beauty and purity of nature. 
 
 One of this group of Kwannon temples is quite a chamber 
 of the gods. The building is nearly eleven hundred and 
 fifty years old, never having been burnt down, as so many 
 such edifices have been. Of all the gods and goddesses 
 here accommodated I will only mention one, but that 
 shall be a very remarkable one — the Kwannon of a thou- 
 sand hands. In strict truth this sacred lady had not, I 
 believe, so many arms and hands as a thousand : I looked 
 well at her, and although I do not suppose that I saw them 
 all, I could not count many, if any, more than fifty. These 
 were all in use, however, holding cups, lotus-flowers, 
 mirrors, swords, croziers, infant hands, small gods, and 
 many other necessary articles. Another Kwannon goddess 
 here has three eyes. 
 
 Our next visit was to the Shinto temple of Hachiman 
 of Tamoki, in connection with which is an ancient building 
 used as a safe-house for the temple. It is eleven hundred 
 years old, and is built almost exactly like the log-houses of 
 
172 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VIII. 
 
 modern Kussian villages, but is raised well above tbe ground. 
 The temple was built in the reign of the empress Kokei, 
 in the middle of the eighth century. 
 
 We now visited a tea-house a little farther up the hill, 
 from which a very fine view of the valley was obtainable, 
 and where we made the acquaintance of a charming girl, 
 the daughter of the house, who spoke a little English, 
 and who, with her chaperone, completed the tour of the 
 temples with us, adding brightness to the day’s brightness. 
 The view from the house was superb, commanding the 
 whole valley in which Nara lies. The only building in the 
 whole city that reminded one in the least degree of Europe 
 was seen near the great pagoda, a mile away, and this 
 building we found to be one of those normal schools which 
 the present enlightened and progressive government of 
 Japan has established throughout the country. 
 
 The Shinto temple of Kasuga came next on our route, 
 with its sacred deer wandering about in the grounds, the 
 gods of the temple having brought them there originally 
 from Kashima. Four gods and goddesses have their shrines 
 in this temple, which was built about two hundred years 
 after the temple of Dai-butsu. The four shrines have, 
 however, to be rebuilt every twenty years. It will be 
 worth while to give the names, as they were given to me 
 on the spot, of those to whom these shrines are dedicated, 
 although they will hardly be intelligible to some of my 
 readers. Each shall have a line to itself. 
 
 1. Takemikadotchinokami. 
 
 2. Futsunushinokami. 
 
 3. Amatsukoyanenokami. 
 
 4. Himeokami (daughter of the last-named). 
 
 I believe I shall not be far wrong, however, in identifying 
 these deities as follows. It will be remembered that in the 
 chapter on the Shinto Eeligion I had occasion to mention 
 the gods who descended from heaven to conquer the country 
 for Ninigi-no-Mikoto, and I gave the names as 
 
 Take-mika-dzuchi, and 
 Futsu-nushi, 
 
CHAP. YIII.] 
 
 THE SACRED CITY OF NAB A. 
 
 173 
 
 the honorific affix “ no kami ” being omitted in both cases. 
 Now the second of these names is precisely the same as that 
 given me here at Nara, if we omit the same affix ; and the 
 first is so nearly like the other as to leave little or no 
 doubt about their identity likewise. No direct identification 
 of the third god has occurred to me, but I remember that in 
 some accounts it is said that the god who was associated 
 with Take-mika-dzuchi on his mission from heaven to Japan 
 was Ame-no-tori-fune, and that the latter was despatched 
 by the former to summon hack the god Koto-shiro-nushi from 
 hunting and fishing to say if he would surrender the country. 
 It is possible, and even probable, that this may he the third 
 god worshipped here — a supposition which at least has the 
 merit of associating the four gods consistently together ; 
 but whether my conjecture as to the third god be correct 
 or not, only probably Japanese scholars can say. It is, 
 however, beyond doubt that the gods still worshipped in this 
 temple of Nara are those who are supposed to have sur- 
 rendered the country to the present dynasty at the demand 
 of messengers from heaven. 
 
 At this temple again we found lanterns literally by the 
 thousand — three thousand of them ; no less than six hundred 
 are lighted every night. I hope the priests who were good 
 enough to meet us at this temple and conduct us through it 
 — as, indeed, did the priests of the Buddhist temples already 
 mentioned, usually giving us tea, cakes, and cigarettes 
 wherewithal to refresh ourselves — will forgive me for saying 
 that this very impressive temple derived, in my opinion, 
 most of its nobleness from the truly magnificent old sugi 
 and other trees which everywhere abounded within its 
 precincts, and from the noble avenues by which it was 
 approached. Older or finer trees than many included within 
 the torii of this temple are seldom to be found. 
 
 The important Shinto shrine of Wakamiya, which we had 
 yet to see before leaving these eastern groups of temples, 
 was made very interesting to us by the circumstance that 
 the priests were good enough to have a religious dance 
 performed for our instruction. The dancers were three 
 
174 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. viti. 
 
 young virgins dressed in red crape, with white robes over, 
 and adorned with two large hunches of artificial flowers 
 standing out like floral horns from their foreheads, balanced 
 by two gilt ornaments projecting backwards from the neck. 
 Three surpliced young men, gifted with a great power of 
 remaining steady for a long time upon one note, led the 
 dance with vocal and instrumental music. Like all Japanese 
 dances, the present one was entirely unlike everything that 
 passes for dancing in Europe, consisting rather of posturing, 
 attitudinising, advancing and retreating, and other such 
 movements, usually conducted very slowly. In the course 
 of the dance the girls each made use of a bunch of bells 
 with silk hands depending from it, as usual in the Shinto 
 dances — in imitation, doubtless, of the goddess Uzume, who, 
 according to tradition, employed in her dancing small hells 
 suspended from a hamhoo cane. The dance was in some 
 respects pretty, as all graceful movements of well-trained 
 young girls are sure to he ; hut I hope it had in it some 
 profounder religious significance than I could discern, for in 
 other respects it was not to he considered inspiriting. They 
 were unfeigned thanks, however, which we tendered to the 
 chief priest for his courtesy in showing me so interesting a 
 spectacle — the first temple-dance we had seen in Japan. 
 
 We now took omy jmrihis and drove to a hatch of temples, 
 all Buddhist, near the great pagoda of Nara, situated near 
 the centre of the present town, in what has now been its 
 public garden for the last seven years, under the new regime. 
 These temples are all over one thousand years old, and in some 
 of them we find again the Kwannon of one thousand arms, 
 and also one of six arms. It would be tedious here to dwell 
 upon the details of these places of worship, although they 
 were extremely interesting for many reasons. Suffice it to 
 say that in one of them I was presented with a little carved 
 god of wood .as a souvenir, and I am strongly inclined to 
 believe that if he should prove to do me little or no good, he 
 will most assuredly not work me any sort of mischief — which 
 cannot as a rule he confidently said of either gods or men. 
 Before returning to tiffin, we looked at the celebrated 
 
CHAP. VITI.] 
 
 TEE SACREJ) CITY OF NARA. 
 
 175 
 
 Haneno-Matz, or flowering pine, a tree which, if it be not 
 itself over eleven hundred years old, is at least in the direct 
 succession of a line of pine-trees that have occupied the 
 same spot continuously throughout that period. This in- 
 spection over, we lost no time in seeking our refreshments, 
 after which we gave the afternoon to hunting the old 
 curiosity shops, of which there are a few at Nara which I 
 can strongly recommend to those who desire to possess 
 themselves of some of the remaining antiquities of Japan. 
 It is quite a mistake to suppose that all the old and curious 
 and valuable things have been bought up ; there are many 
 remaining, and to those who care for them the twenty-six 
 miles’ run from Osaka in a jinrihi will he well repaid by a 
 few days spent in this ancient, historic, and most charming 
 city of Nara. 
 
 Our return trip was a delightful one. Up at seven in the 
 morning, we were soon sunning ourselves in the delicious 
 brightness and warmth, with a pretty and curious garden 
 before us, and old temples, old woods, and old hills all around 
 us, and a sky above us far older than all of them, and yet 
 wrought of material as unsubstantial and evanescent as a 
 dream. The attendant girls, more numerous even than on 
 the previous evening, took leave of us with regards as 
 lingering as if we had known and loved them all our lives, 
 and we were ourselves loth to leave beings so engaging and 
 pleasant as we had found them. But away we went, taking 
 another view of the old home of Dai-butsu among the hills 
 that had sheltered the spot long before he made it sacred — 
 
 “ Long ere great Buddlia strode 
 
 Upon his calm, colossal, godlike way 
 O’er the broad rolling rivers of Cathay, 
 
 By the Korean road. 
 
 And stepping stormy seas 
 
 Hither, to mount the golden lotus throne 
 Of Nara, there to rule and muse alone. 
 
 Through lingering centuries.” 
 
 Passing once more the grim gatekeepers, away we rolled, 
 merrily through the merry morning, past the old temples and 
 
176 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VIII. 
 
 pagodas ; among tlie staring people ; between the huge 
 lanterns of the portal, and on to the westward-spreading 
 plain over which eleven hundred years ago the imperial 
 sacred city shone. On our right lay large mounds, the tombs 
 of emperors and empresses, each one of whom has been a god 
 for ages past. Over their tomhs spread clumps of pine-trees, 
 and beneath the pines stand their shrines, to which a people 
 reverent, and with cause, of their ancestral gods resort to 
 breathe forth their simple prayers. About a mile and a half 
 from the present boundary we reached a village, at which the 
 road turned right and left, and it was to this point that the 
 ancient capital extended. Three fourths of a mile on the 
 southern road stands a pagoda, and this, in those old days, 
 marked the southern boundary of the city. The limits are 
 fixed by the names of the roads and villages which indicate the 
 avenues, boulevards, and streets of a city. The temples and 
 pagodas, by the nature of their designations, serve to 
 complete the desired record. The pagoda referred to stands 
 in a village the name of which signifies the Western 
 Temples, and is known to have formed the western limit of the 
 capital, the temples round the Dai-butsu being the Eastern 
 Temples, and forming, as they did then and do now, the 
 eastern limit. The plain over which the city stretched is 
 now cultivated to the last inch of it, but after crossing it, it 
 was easy on looking back, with the aid of a stimulated and 
 sympathetic imagination, to restore the former greatness 
 and glory of the place, the distant parts (those which we had 
 recently left) standing up in the morning light and shining 
 in it precisely as they had done when reality and not imagina- 
 tion made the display. The road-scenes, the village-scenes, 
 the wood-scenes, the mountain-scenes, the river-scenes, of the 
 return journey took their places in the brilliant panorama as 
 we spun along ; and as it was hard to write, even to the extent 
 of jotting down notes, in the leaping and jumping jinriki-sha, 
 I utilised the circumstances (as on similar occasions) by com- 
 posing verses, into which I will hope some of the beauty and 
 the spirit of the time found its way. At a quarter past one 
 we emerged from the gorges of the hills, and at half past 
 
CHAP. VIII.] THE SACRED CITY OF NAB A 
 
 177 
 
 one the white walls of Osaka Castle again glittered in the 
 distance. 
 
 Before reaching Sakai we turned off to the south, in order to 
 pass through a fine group of Shinto temples and shrines, cover- 
 ing, I should think, thirty to forty acres. Some of the small 
 shrines were so picturesque, both in themselves and in their 
 surroundings, that one was strongly tempted to linger among 
 them, and to sketch, however roughly, the prettiest of them. 
 But this our time did not allow, and we were able only for a 
 moment to witness the sun-goddess lavishing her light upon 
 the shrines and symbols reared in her honour. On entering 
 Sakai, once more the whole population turned out along the line 
 of route, thus politely offering themselves again for inspection. 
 Alighting at the house of a private gentleman of wealth, who 
 was unfortunately too ill to appear, we were received in the 
 kindest manner by the mayor, with whom we were, delighted 
 to see his excellency Minister Kawamura, who had recovered 
 from an indisposition which prevented him from visiting Nara. 
 We found ourselves once more in a purely Japanese residence 
 of a high class, one of its features being a small fish- 
 pond, with very large gold and other fish, embedded in the 
 centre of the house. The house was beautifully built and 
 decorated, and the mayor — who is fond of antiquities, as we 
 saw on our previous visit— had brought for our inspection a 
 fine collection of old Japanese coins, jewels, mirrors, jars, and 
 other articles of very great age. Luncheon was served 
 European fashion for our convenience, but most of the dishes 
 were Japanese, and tea was subsequently made and served by 
 the daughters of the house, in that elaborate and ceremonial 
 style which shows with what care and delicacy even the 
 simplest operations of domestic life may be performed when 
 people can afford the time for studying them. The two 
 richly dressed girls, with their pure Japanese faces, hair 
 curiously cut and contrived after the fashion of the country, 
 kneeling at their tea-service, and attended by kneeling- 
 servants in the background, formed as pretty a picture as 
 you could anywhere find even among the exquisite and 
 varied arts of Japan. But like the pictures of the sun- 
 
 VOL. IT. 
 
 N 
 
178 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. VIII. 
 
 goddess which we had just passed, it was one over which -we 
 could not linger, for w-e had arrived late, the hour of four 
 was getting near, we w^ere still from one and a half to two 
 hours’ distance from our residence in Osaka, and we had to 
 dress for a great dinner, with which the day, as we saw" in the 
 last chapter, concluded. 
 
 THE COLOSSAL DAI-HLTSU OF KAMAKUKA. 
 
( 179 ) 
 
 CHAPTEE IX. 
 
 KIOTO, OR SAIKIO, THE WESTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 Clianges of name — The “ cockpit ” of Japan — Arrival at Kioto — Lodgings 
 in a Buddhist temple — Baths of Maruyama— General view of the 
 city — Temples of Higashi-Otani aud Chionin — The Mikado’s palace — 
 The emperor-god — The throne -room, study, bed-chamber — The 
 apartments of the empress — Imperial gardens — Shinto temple at 
 Shimagomo — A summer- seat of the Mikado — The silver-storied temple 
 — Pastimes of the sacred and secular monarchs — Temples of the eight 
 million gods — Other temples — Government industrial establishments 
 and schools — Female normal school — “Sweet girl-graduates” — Educa- 
 tion of dancing-girls and geishas — A banquet with Buddhist digni- 
 taries — Illuminations — A rashiyama— Fishing and boating on a moun- 
 tain-river — A palace tiffin — Japanese music — The loji temples — 
 Superfluous gods — Another Buddhist banquet — Ancient Japanese and 
 Chinese temple dances — Presents — The gentle Buddha — An historical 
 exhibition — Literary treasures — Porcelain works — Hideyoshi at 
 “ Clear-water Temple ” — Nishi - Otani — National dances — Silk and 
 other factories — Street strolls — Mount Hiyei. 
 
 On Wednesday the 24th of February we left Osaka for 
 Kioto, the former capital of Japan. When Yedo was made 
 the seat of government, and had its name changed to Tokio, 
 or Eastern Capital, the name of Kioto was officially changed 
 to Saikio, or Western Capital. In the former case Tokio 
 has everywhere superseded Yedo, but except in government 
 documents its old name, Kioto, clings to the western city 
 still. 
 
 Several of our Osaka friends came to see our party off by 
 the train. Governor Watanabe and Mr. Godai giving us the 
 honour and pleasure of their company on the short railway 
 journey. The route lies through the “ cockpit ” of Japan, 
 where many a hard and prolonged contest has been fought, 
 
 N 2 
 
180 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 tlie last of wliicli was the deadly four days’ struggle between 
 the troops of the Mikado and those of the Shogun, early in 
 1868, which resulted victoriously for the young Mikado, 
 and gave him that undisputed power which he has since 
 worthily exercised. 
 
 On reaching the railway station at Kioto, we were met by 
 the carriages of the governor, and driven at once to the 
 Buddhist temple of Kenninji, where quarters had been 
 prepared for us, with careful regard to our European habits, 
 and to the impediments they would meet with in a house 
 adapted only to the habits of Japanese. European tables, 
 chairs, beds, and other similar furniture had been provided, 
 the manufactures of Kioto being richly illustrated by an 
 abundance of beautiful rugs, embroidered silk table covers, 
 cloisonne cigar-boxes, and porcelain services. The walls 
 were hung with kakemonos of rare merit, and in every 
 room were folding-screens of great beauty, some of them 
 displaying the best obtainable specimens of that embossing 
 and embroidering with silk in which the Japanese are 
 excelled by none. The rooms were made still more beauti- 
 ful and interesting by bronzes, porcelain figures, and lacquer 
 work of the best kind. These latter, together with the 
 pictures, were changed daily during our stay in Kioto 
 (as elsewhere mentioned), to increase the attractions of the 
 residence. The house has beautiful gardens, upon one of 
 which our rooms gave, and in sunny hours, of which we 
 had many, was a miniature paradise — without the embarrass- 
 ments of an Eve in this case. 
 
 After taking some tea, we sauntered forth to the mineral 
 baths at Maruyama, where we climbed a tower and obtained 
 a splendid view of the old historic city, with the crested 
 summit of Mount Atago in front of us westward, and ranges 
 of hills in every other direction. For eleven centuries this 
 city, lying there below us, had been the capital of this 
 extraordinary country, the government of which had always, 
 throughout that long period, been of such a nature as to 
 make the capital the centre of its infiuence. Beyond the 
 city, in the south, lay the ground on which the great and 
 
CHAP. IX.] 
 
 KIOTO, TEE WESTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 181 
 
 decisive struggles for the dominion of the country had over 
 and over again taken place, the last so recently as 1868, 
 when the troops of the Shogun, who was seeking to obtain 
 possession of the person of the Mikado, were defeated and 
 routed by the loyal troops, whose valour, displayed through 
 three days of fighting, secured for Japan the freedom, the 
 enlightened administration, and the growing constitutional- 
 ism which she now enjoys. 
 
 After witnessing the beautiful and touching prospect for 
 a time — having each his own thoughts, probably, about 
 the fleeting fates of cities and nations, and the comparative 
 permanence of the old hills and the immeasurably older sun 
 that was then steeping all the scene in warmth and lustre — 
 we strolled to the large and splendid Buddhist temples of 
 Higashi-Otani and Chionin. In a quaint and very brief little 
 guidebook of the city Mr. Yamamoto says of the former : 
 “ Higashi-Otani was constructed about the year 1690 after 
 the Christian era, and its idol was Midabuds, which was 
 thought to be very sacred to the people. For this reason 
 the structure was completed much more grandly than any 
 others. I think it may be called one of the most distin- 
 guished places, for it grants a delightful sight of Kiyoto. 
 It has a comely gate called Karamon, and before you enter 
 the gate you will find .a very nice road with shady trees on 
 both sides.” This is rather meagre information, so I will 
 add that Higashi-Otani is really the cemetery belonging to 
 the great temple of Higashi-Honganji (of which I shall 
 have occasion to speak hereafter), and is under the same 
 control. It is famous as containing the grave of Shinran 
 Shonin, the founder of the great Shinshu sect of Buddhists, 
 as stated in the chapter on Buddhism. There is a noted 
 stone upon the grave, known from its shape as Toraishi 
 (Tiger-stone), which was at the spot where Shinran Shonin 
 died, but was taken in Hideyoshi’s time to the castle ,of 
 Fushimi, and brought thence afterwards to its present 
 place. The buildings are about one hundred and ninety 
 years old. The name Otaiii — which, as wo shall afterwards 
 see, is the family name of the heads of the Shinshu sect — 
 
182 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 was derived from tlie ground first appropriated as the grave- 
 place of Sliinran Slionin, upon which now stands the great 
 temple of Chionin, to which we next proceeded. Higashi 
 Otani is famous also for the beauty of its display of blossoms 
 in springtime. 
 
 Of the other temple, Chionin, Mr. Yamamoto says : 
 “Chionin, where the prior exhibition of last spring [1872] 
 took place, is a large and most magnificent temple in Kiyoto. 
 It was erected by Genkuwu, a successful priest of the 
 Buddhist religion, for the purpose of spreading the religion 
 through this country, about the year 1202 after the Chris- 
 tian era. The present edifice, which is a wonderfully large 
 and splendid building, was built by the illustrious carpenter 
 Hidari Jingoro. There is also a great hell that is 18 feet 
 high from the top to the bottom, and 10 inches thick. It 
 is on the hill to the south-east of the edifice.” 
 
 On the following morning we commenced our serious 
 survey of the city, and first visited the palace of his 
 majesty the Mikado, entering by the “ Gate of the Sun.” 
 This palace and grounds are of great interest historically, 
 as they exhibit the conditions under which the Mikado 
 existed before the late revolution of 1868, until which 
 time he had been secluded as a sacred personage, whose foot 
 must not touch the ground, and who was to the great hulk 
 of his subjects, and indeed to all, even less approachable 
 than any other of their gods. It was in this palace that 
 the emperor-god dwelt: here he was enthroned, here married, 
 here lived, here died. When he walked in these gardens, 
 mats were laid before him as he stepped, to keep his foot 
 from touching earth, and when he left them, as he rarely 
 did, he was conveyed in a large carriage closed in by screens, 
 and, as he passed along, the people stopped and worshipped. 
 Any eye that saw his sacred form would, the people believed, 
 he blinded by the sight. Here he somehow had to lead his 
 life, with none of the duties of government left to him, and 
 finding it difficult no doubt to wear the hours away, being a 
 monarch and yet a prisoner, a god and yet a slave ! 
 
 The palace buildings differ externally in no way that an 
 
CHAP. IX.] 
 
 KIOTO, THE WESTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 183 
 
 untrained eye can discover from the residences of ordinary 
 nobles, or from the ordinary forms of Buddhist temples and 
 temple buildings. It certainly is not superior, or even 
 equal, in construction to many of the temples of Kioto. In 
 the square in front of the throne-room (Shishindeen) were 
 on the one hand a cherry-tree and on the other an orange- 
 tree, which the Mikado Jito planted in the seventh century ; 
 or rather let us say, the present trees had come down in a 
 direct and unbroken line of succession from those planted on 
 the same spots by Jito. The Shishindeen was but little 
 more than a large open room, with a small throne-chamber 
 partitioned off opposite to the central entrance. This 
 chamber contained a chair (in lieu of the throne) and a 
 pair of bronze Korean dogs, whose presence at the foot of 
 the Mikado’s throne was an emblem, I presume, of the 
 conquest of Korea by the empress Jingu Kogo sixteen 
 hundred years ago. On the wall were very good portraits 
 of the present emperor and empress, painted in European 
 style, and lower down representations of thirty-two of the 
 wise men of China. We next went to the ceremonial 
 chamber, outside of which were two bamboo bushes, the 
 object of which was said by my informant to have been to 
 collect birds whose songs and twitterings would wake the 
 Mikado early, at the time when his sleeping-chamber was in 
 this building. After passing through the reception-rooms of 
 the residential part of the palace, we came to a beautiful 
 garden, with winding waters, stepping-stone paths, stone and 
 wooden bridges, and trees trained and distributed after the 
 picturesque fashion of the country. Giving upon this garden 
 was the Mikado’s study, decorated with some of the prettiest 
 and most chaste paintings anywhere to be seen. Passing 
 on through other rooms of residence, looking over, or rather 
 into, other gardens — for seclusion seemed to have been the 
 ruling object with which the gardens had been composed,* — 
 we came to his majesty’s bedroom, an inner room remark- 
 
 * I say composed, for a Japan- should be regarded as a pictui e, but 
 ese garden is essentially an artistic as a picture with many points of 
 composition, and to be appreciated view. 
 
184 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 able chiefly from the circumstance that its walls Tvere through- 
 out adorned with fine and spirited paintings of wild beasts, 
 very evil-looking beasts most of them. I remarked that 
 this seemed a strange class of decoration for a bedchamber, 
 but was told — it is not for me to conjecture with what 
 correctness— that the object was to scare demons from the 
 imperial and divine presence ! Adjoining the bedchamber, 
 with its guard of painted wild beasts, is a small but splendid 
 room, in which his majesty used to keep his valuables, or, as 
 I rather think, the sacred stone or jewel, and the copies of 
 the other sacred symbols of the Shinto religion — the sword 
 and the mirror, of which the originals are at the famous 
 shrines of Ise and Atsuta. Then came a spring room and a 
 summer room, of which the former is adorned with paintings 
 of one hundred animals, while the latter looks upon another 
 exceedingly pretty garden. There were likewise the usual 
 small room for ceremonial tea- taking, a flower- room, and 
 other apartments. The passages of temples and palaces of 
 this kind are usually decorated by paintings upon the 
 natural wood, which often have a very pleasant and effective 
 appearance ; but in this instance I observed that the walls 
 of the long passages connecting the apartments of the 
 emperor and empress are altogether without paintings, 
 and although the empress has very charming quarters, and 
 some of the paintings upon her walls are exceedingly grace- 
 ful and pretty, her rooms are on the whole much inferior to 
 those of the emperor. Near to the quarters of the empress 
 is the wedding-room, in w^hich the imperial couples were 
 married, with a gate close by for the admission of the lady 
 who was to have the distinguished honour of becoming the 
 mother of Mikados. In the gardens were a bridge formed of 
 a single stone, some trees trained into curiously twisted 
 forms, a tea-house, and withal an earthquake-house — not an 
 uncommon provision in this country, which, as w^e found 
 when in Tokio, appears at times to be floated upon earth- 
 quakes. 
 
 Departing from the palace, we proceeded in our jinrihi- 
 .'ihas to the great Shinto temple of Kamonnoyanoshinsha, 
 
CHAP. IX.] KIOTO, THE WESTEKN CAPITAL. 
 
 185 
 
 at the village of Shimagomo, on the northern side of the 
 city. This is one of the temples the expenses of which are 
 provided by the government. It was built in commemoration 
 of Tamayorihime and Oanamuchino Mikoto, and has two 
 shrines dedicated to them. It is one of the largest temples 
 in or near Kioto, and has been reverenced by the Mikados — 
 so the priests of tlie temple informed me — beyond all others. 
 The date of its foundation is uncertain, but the Kin-sliald 
 states that Kamo was first built in the seventh year of the 
 reign of Sujin-Tenno (and therefore ninety-two years before 
 Christ), and the Kohushi history of Japan says that in the 
 second month of the sixth year of Temmu-Tenno (679 a.d.) 
 Kamo was repaired by the Yamashiro district, in which it 
 stands. My readers will he glad to learn who were the 
 distinguished individuals to whom the two shrines were 
 dedicated, and whose unfamiliar names I have faithfully, 
 and I hope correctly, recorded. I know but little of them, 
 but I am able to state that they stood to each other in the 
 relation of father and daughter, the name beginning with 0 
 belonging to the father. The daughter, the princess Tama- 
 yori, is said to he the first person who improved the land of 
 Yamashiro, and, if that he true, no right-minded reader will 
 question her claim to a shrine ; while her father Oanamuchi 
 — well, he was the princess’s father, and in Japan the father 
 of every distinguished person is honoured even before the 
 person himself.* But according to one history, he appears 
 to have been personally worthy, for the Nijdiou ShoJci 
 represents that he acted as a guide to the army which 
 Jimmu-Tenno, the first Mikado, sent against the rebellious 
 eastern savages, and enabled it to conquer them | 
 
 This temple is approached by a long avenue of noble trees. 
 
 * When a person exhibits par- 
 ticular skill in public, in the wrest- 
 ling ring or elsewhere, the compli- 
 mentary cry of the spectators is 
 equivalent, I am told, to “ Has he 
 not a father?” or “Has be father?” 
 the recognition of the father being 
 the immediate result of individual 
 
 merit. 
 
 t I have repeated in the text the 
 information given me on the spot ; 
 but on pages 35, 36 of vol. i. will be 
 found facts which go to show that the 
 deities of this temple are the mother 
 of the first emperor, Jimmu, and her 
 father. 
 
186 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 the ground beyond being well wooded. It is, in fact, quite* 
 a delightful open park-like place, resembling in this respect 
 most of the great temples in this country — a beneficent 
 circumstance for the crowded towns in and about which 
 these temples are situated. The buildings and shrines 
 presented the usual appearance of the larger Shinto temples, 
 and, as the movable curiosities and antiquities of the place 
 had been lent to a forthcoming local exhibition, there was 
 but little to see beyond the buildings. The chief priest and 
 his assistants were very pleasant and hospitable, and offered 
 us tea and biscuits in abundance. As we walked back 
 through the long avenue I could not but remember the lines 
 (of Bryant, I believe) beginning — 
 
 “ The groves were God’s first temples.” 
 
 I suppose His last will be that 
 
 “ Temple of immortal splendour ” 
 which holds the worlds 
 
 ‘‘Within its arching walls of diamond light.” 
 
 After crossing the bed of one branch of the Kamogawa, 
 which here divides into two, we again committed ourselves 
 to our man-carriages, and started for a hillside summer seat 
 of his majesty the Mikado, called Shugakuin. This we 
 found to be a fine wooded park, containing a large artificial 
 lake with islands, and furnished with numerous tea- and 
 summer-houses, some of which offered delightful views of 
 the Kioto valley and the Atago mountains beyond. Here 
 and there, in selected places, the summer-house tables had 
 been spread with light refreshments, and upon the lake were 
 boats, one of them hung with flags and gala trappings. It 
 was a lovely scene, and one which it was impossible for 
 innocent people not to enjoy ; and we did enjoy it. We 
 boated and strolled and moved our minds over the land- 
 scape, and let the quiet and the beauty of the place have 
 their own way with us — and what a pleasure it is to let the 
 quiet and the beauty of any natural scenery do that in these 
 days of hurrying activity ! I ought to mention, as part of 
 
CHAP. IX.] KIOTO, THE WESTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 187 
 
 the pleasures of the place, that the tables were furnished for 
 the occasion with some of the choicest productions of Kioto 
 manufacture, in the shape of embroidered silk table-covers, 
 porcelain tea-services, cigar-holders and ash-cups of cloissone 
 work, and so forth. Before leaving, we found a substantial 
 tiffin spread in the entrance-house of the park, and this, as 
 well as everything else in this beautiful place, we carefully 
 endeavoured to appreciate. Shugakuin was built about two 
 hundred and fifty years ago by lyemitsu, one of the great 
 Shoguns of the Tokugawa family, whose daughter was married 
 to the Mikado, and who played so signal a part in the history 
 of the country that he has received fuller notice elsewhere. 
 
 On leaving the imperial grounds we visited, hard by, Mr. 
 Schumako’s large private school, which is well known in the 
 neighbourhood. It is a mixed school of boys and girls, and 
 the opportunity we had of observing the teaching in the 
 various class-rooms convinced me that the instruction there 
 given in elementary knowledge was solid and good. 
 
 We next proceeded by a pleasant country road, which was 
 very steep and rough in places, and much of it bordered with 
 tea-plantations, to the Buddhist temple of G-inkakuji (Silver- 
 storied Temple), which was built more than four hundred 
 years ago by the Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa, who had the 
 best procurable things brought from all parts of Japan for 
 its construction and ornamentation. It was originally his 
 country seat, named Higashiyama-den (Palace of the 
 Eastern Mountains) by Go Tsuchi Mikado Tenno, but now 
 his (Yoshimasa’s) image, carved by a clever contemporary, is 
 one of the principal objects of worship. An image of Amita 
 two feet high, standing in a lotus-flower, which was the 
 object of his own worship, is also still worshipped here. 
 Yoshimasa like many other monarchs and quasi-monarchs 
 has become more famous from a comparatively trivial cir- 
 cumstance than from any of his more serious acts. He 
 was the first person to establish, in a small room (of 
 “ mats ”), into which we went, what is known in Japan 
 as ceremonial tea-taking, to which I have on other occasions 
 adverted. In doing so he acted upon the advice of the 
 
188 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 clever friend who, as just stated, carved his image, one 
 Sohami. This Sohami appears to have been a fellow of very 
 various accomplishments, for, besides his carving and his 
 tea-making, he did some very clever painting on a screen, 
 which was shown to us, and he was represented by the 
 priests, who were good enough to take us about the temple, 
 to have been a most learned man besides. We also saw some 
 fine old paintings by the famous artist Kano Masanohu, who, 
 with his son, founded the Kano School of Japanese painters. 
 The tea-room in the Tokindo to which I have referred is 
 further interesting on account of the visits which the em- 
 peror above-named (Go-Tsuchi, who reigned 1465-1501) 
 used to pay to Yoshimasa at this palace, and of the tea-taking 
 that used to he carried on by them on such occasions in this 
 little room. At such times these two — the sacred and the 
 secular monarchs of the country, as they may he roughly 
 called — used further to amuse and interest themselves by 
 the equally harmless processes of burning and smelling in- 
 cense and of composing poetry. Several compositions of the 
 emperor, and articles liked by him, are still preserved in this 
 temple. Yoshimasa died in his fifty-sixth year, leaving 
 instructions that his seat should he converted into a temple 
 of the “ Jen ” sect, which was done, the chief priest, Hosho 
 Shuzai, of Shokokuji, one of the principal Jen temples then 
 in Japan, being appointed to govern the new one. Since 
 then the families of Ashikaga, Konoye, and Nijio, all noble, 
 have furnished the chiefs of the temple, which, until about 
 one hundred years ago, was very flourishing. In front of 
 the temple is a curious winding steep-sided mound of 
 sand, about four feet high, and a frustrum of a cone 
 of the same material somewhat higher, which have been 
 kept up 'ever since Yoshimasa’s time, although they look 
 as if the first shower of rain would go far towards level- 
 ling them. I was told, however, that the hot sun does 
 much more injury to them than rain. There is also 
 a most lovely garden here, hut one with an antique look 
 about it, shrubs, trees, buildings all looking very, very 
 old. There is an old and small separate two-storied 
 
CHAP. IX.] KIOTO, THE WESTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 189 
 
 building likewise, which gives the name of Silver-storied 
 Temple ” to the whole.* It has a parlour or tea-room 
 below, and a shrine of Kwannon above, all looking, to me, 
 neglected, and likely soon to tumble to pieces ; but this 
 may have been a mistaken impression. Within the grounds 
 of this temple there were also some small Shinto shrines, 
 with torii and everything complete. I had often before seen 
 the temple grounds of the two religions, Buddhist and 
 Shinto, running more or less into each other apparently ; 
 nor was this altogether surprising, seeing the efforts made 
 by some of the early Buddhist missionaries and converts to 
 make their own faith include the Shinto — efforts carried by 
 some (Kobo-da.ishi, for instance) to the length of asserting, 
 as previously stated, that the Shinto gods were, in fact, 
 neither more nor less than so many manifestations of 
 Buddha. I had not before observed, however, the presence 
 of the shrines of the one faith entirely within the temple- 
 precincts of the other, as here. Nor could I get any 
 satisfactory explanation of the circumstance. What made 
 the matter still more difficult, perhaps, was the alleged fact 
 that these Shinto shrines dated from the foundation of the 
 place. It was suggested by one of the attendants of the 
 temple that probably they were erected for private worship 
 by the founder, Yoshimasa, before the conversion of the 
 palace into a temple ; but there are difficulties in that 
 explanation of the matter which are obvious. Ginkakuji 
 was visited by the present empress of Japan in January 
 1877. 
 
 From Ginkakuji we drove to the famous Shinto temples of 
 Yoshida, which, like the former, are situated upon the open 
 hilly ground on the north-east^ of the city, but are some- 
 what nearer to it. These temples, which were built three 
 hundred and sixty years ago, cover many acres of a beauti- 
 ful wooded hill, with approaches from its opposite sides. 
 They ought to be very sacred temples indeed, for they are 
 
 * It was the intention of Yoshimysa building with silver leaves; hence 
 to adorn the walls and ceiling of this the name. 
 
190 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 dedicated to no less than eight million gods, all of whom are 
 gods of Japan, and all of whom have separate, though slight, 
 consideration shown to them in this place.* There are 
 several shrines at different parts of the temple grounds, hut 
 the eight millions of gods are worshipped in one main 
 temple, with a series of small shrines arranged around in 
 the open air under a tiled canopy. The way the matter is 
 managed is this : the deities are grouped according to 
 districts — returns having been made, I presume, of the 
 number in each district, from all parts of the country — and 
 the name of the district, with the assigned number of deities, 
 is written up in each case. I took a few of the numbers 
 down as they happened to run from one end, and found 
 them to he very variable, viz. 16, 34, 187, 6, fj(), 131, 65, 
 71, 21, 24, 24, 50, and so forth. It would obviously take an 
 immense number of shrines to make up the eight millions, 
 at this rate, for here we have but an average of less than 
 sixty gods per shrine; but I presume there are some dis- 
 tricts very much more fortunate than others, and that if 
 we could have given sufficient time to the matter we should 
 have found some in which there were deities by thousands 
 and tens of thousands. More interesting to me than this 
 congestion of consecration, if I may so speak, were some of 
 the minor shrines, representing the ancient Japanese archi- 
 tecture. There was one such shrine in which the form of 
 building in vogue two thousand years ago was accurately 
 preserved,! and another of seven hundred years later date 
 showing the same style somewhat elaborated. There were 
 also on this hill of Yoshida the tomb of some of the Mikados, 
 including those of Yozei, who reigned in the ninth century 
 (a.d.), and Nijo, who reignpd in the twelfth century, the 
 former living beyond the age of eighty, and the latter dying 
 at the early age of twenty-three. J 
 
 Near to Yoshida is the ancient and splendid Buddhist 
 
 * This is not a very large number, f See illustration on page 136, vol. i. 
 
 however, when compared with that J These dates and figures are taken 
 
 of tlie Hindu gods, of which there chiefly from the Philadelphia Educa- 
 are three hundred millions. tion Exhibit. 
 
CHAP. IX.] KIOTO, THE WESTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 191 
 
 temple of Shiuniyodo, which is approached hy a sloping 
 avenue of extremely fine red maple-trees, and is celebrated 
 for its beautiful flowers. This temple was founded about 
 the year 1050 a.d., and was originally the country seat of 
 Sanjo-in, the mother of the Mikado Ichijo, who reigned from 
 1017-36, dying at the age of twenty-nine. It was once 
 burnt, and rebuilt on the same site. A three-storied pagoda 
 is attached to it. The main shrine is dedicated to the god 
 Amita, of whom it contains a very famous image made hy 
 a priest named Ikakudieshi. The head priest — who, with 
 others, most kindly received and entertained us — was good 
 enough to open the shrine, and permit us to view the god, 
 before whom there happened to he standing at the time 
 what I presume were cups of rice, fourteen in number. 
 This temple contains also a very large and particularly fine 
 specimen of Kioto silk embroidery in a picture (about 
 twelve feet hy fifteen) crowded with detailed figures ex- 
 quisitely worked. It is a pictorial illustration of the 
 description of heaven given in the sacred Buddhist hooks. 
 The adornments of this temple are very rich, the canopy 
 over the chief seat of the officiating priests being a remark- 
 ably fine work. 
 
 We had still two great temples to inspect before our day’s 
 work was over, the next being the famous Buddhist temple 
 of Kurodani, which is one of the four great temples of the 
 Jodo sect. This is one of those Buddhist sects which came 
 from India through China to Japan, being established there 
 in the thirteenth century. The great Tokugawas belonged to 
 this sect. Kurodani stands in the same quarter (the north- 
 east) of Kioto as the foregoing temples, hut is somewhat 
 nearer the city than they. The other name of it is Shiunzan 
 (Purple Cloud Mountain) Konkai Komiyoji (Temple of Golden 
 Brilliant Light). It covers about eleven acres of ground. 
 The priests of the temple — who, like those of Shiuniyodo, 
 received us well, and entertained us in the temple with tea 
 and cigarettes — gave us a short account of it from a transla- 
 tion of which, hy a J apanese gentleman of Kioto, I take the 
 following passage : — 
 
192 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [cflAP. IX. 
 
 “In tlie fifth year of Shoan, or 1175 a.d., when the 
 founder Yenko-daishi left his lovely dwelling of Kiirodani 
 in Mount Hi-yei [which rises high over Kioto in the 
 north-east] for the j^iirpose of introducing the Jodo sect, 
 he saw on the way to Shiuniyodo, where he used to 
 worship, a wonderful divine exhibition of purple cloud and 
 brilliant light, and on the spot he erected a temple, and 
 from the divine exhibition which he saw he named the 
 mountain Shiun, and the temj)le Konkai Komiyoji.” 
 
 The temple is, however, known by its founder, who in 
 that age was called by his place of abode rather than by his 
 name. He was known to the people of his day as Kurodani 
 Shonin (a high title for priests), and gradually the temple 
 has come to be known by the name of Kurodani. The 
 temple was burnt down one hundred and four years ago, and 
 after a few years the present structures were built by Jingo 
 Kaurei, the head priest of the forty-fifth generation. The 
 main shrine is that of Yenko-daishi himself; the adjoining 
 buildings are the Amitado, the shrine of Amita ; the Tenrinzo, 
 for the holy books ; the Kwando, the shrine for Kwannon ; 
 the very fine Saumon, or temple gate ; the tomb of the 
 founder ; and the three- storied pagoda. There are also 
 twenty-five dwellings for the priests of the temple. While 
 visiting this fine temple we had the advantage of a con- 
 versation with the priests upon Buddhism, and the sects 
 into which Buddhists are divided. 
 
 We had still the temple of Nanjenji (a little southward 
 of Kurodani) to visit. This also is a Buddhist temple, but 
 it belongs to a different sect, viz. the great Jen sect, of 
 which it is the principal temple in Japan. Originally it 
 was the pleasure palace of one of the Mikados. I have not 
 any very clear information respecting its conversion into a 
 temple, but an account was furnished to me, and I will give 
 it here for what it is worth, leaving the curious language to 
 stand in connection with the circumstances, which are quite 
 as curious : — 
 
 “ How the palace came to be a temple is on the following 
 
CHAP. IX.] KIOTO, THE WESTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 193 
 
 accounts : In the beginning of Shoo, as often some 
 wonderful occurrences happened in the palace, so several 
 priests were called from Nara in order to put an end to 
 the occurrences, hut they could not execute their duty. 
 In the fourth year of Shoo, Ninkan Jenshi, the head priest 
 of the third generation of Toki Kuji, was called by the 
 emperor, and he, with twenty priests accompanying him, 
 made prayers in the palace, and then the occurrences 
 ceased for ever, so that the emperor (now retired) became 
 the very deep believer in Jen sect, and came to offer 
 his palace as a temple. In the seventh month of the 
 third year of Shitoku, in the reign of Gokomatsuin-Tenno, 
 Yoshimitsu Shogun gave to the temple, in the name of 
 the emperor, the first rank of the five main temples of 
 Jen sects.” 
 
 The present main gate of this building is a very large one, 
 and was built by a great general, Todo Takatora, in com- 
 memoration of the many soldiers killed under him in battles 
 at Osaka and elsewhere. It was built in eight months, 
 and is a very imposing structure. 
 
 Our first hours and our first day in the sacred city having 
 been devoted to sacred residences and temples, we gave 
 our next, in part, to more secular subjects ; and first we 
 visited the silk-factory founded by the local government, the 
 governor of Kioto being good enough to conduct us there 
 and explain its basis and management. And this may be a 
 convenient place for stating that in Kioto, as elsewhere, the 
 government appears to have taken many measures for 
 stimulating and aiding the productions and manufactures as 
 well as the education of the country. Under the city 
 government of Kioto there is an industrial department, the 
 Kuwangiyoba, which was established in 1870 specially for the 
 promotion of the industrial arts, and which has the following 
 branches: 1. An experimental gardening department (Sai- 
 baishi Kenjo), commenced in 1872, for the cultivation of 
 foreign and Japanese fruits and vegetables ; 2. A shoe-manu- 
 factory (Seikuwajo), begun at the same time, for extending 
 VOL. II. o 
 
194 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 the manufacture of boots and shoes of European style ; 3. A 
 weaving-factory (Shokkoba), begun in 1873, where silks and 
 other fabrics are woven, principally in foreign looms : this 
 branch sent three workmen to Europe to learn the art of 
 foreign weaving; 4. A physical and chemical branch (Semi- 
 kiyoku), which has a sub-branch at Miyadju, in Tango, 
 80 miles distant, and which, with the assistance of two 
 foreign workmen, is promoting and teaching the manufacture 
 of chemicals, soap, effervescing and lemon drinks, cloisonne 
 ware, porcelain, etc. ; adjoining it is the Senkojo, for teaching 
 dyeing on foreign methods; 5. The female industrial school, 
 Jokoba, already mentioned ; 6. The Bokujo, or more pro- 
 perly Bokuchikujo, which is an experimental farm, estab- 
 lished in 1871 with the object of improving the breeding of 
 cattle and of teaching agriculture, the foreign cattle and 
 sheep being chiefly purchased in America, and the milk 
 produced being sold in the city ; a branch farm exists at 
 Komo in Tamba, about sixteen miles from Kioto ; 7. A 
 department (Yosanba) for promoting the multiplication of 
 silkworms; 8. A pauper industrial department (Jusansho), 
 established in 1869, with a branch at Dosembo, in the 
 south-eastern part of Kioto county, where agriculture and 
 the manufacture of earthenware are the principal employ- 
 ments of the pauper colony ; 9. A street-sweeping depart- 
 ment (Kuwakaisho), where compost is prepared on the French 
 method; 10. A paper-manufactory, established in 1875. 
 There exist also separate branches for making and teach- 
 ing how to prepare leather, beer, and mineral waters. A 
 museum is in course of formation. 
 
 As before stated, we visited the Shokkoba, and saw in 
 practice the processes of manufacturing woven fabrics of 
 cotton and of silk, with embroidery. Much of the work pro- 
 duced was strikingly beautiful, more especially in the depart- 
 ments for silk embroidery ; for producing artistic effects in 
 cut pile fabrics (velvets, etc.) by cutting part of the pile 
 only ; and for producing pictorial effects by dyeing velvets. 
 The factory is in a fine building, on the site of a former 
 palace, and a beautiful Japanese garden is connected with 
 
CHAP. IX.] KIOTO, THE WESTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 195 
 
 it, with ornamental water of extreme purity and clearness, 
 abounding with large grey and golden carp. Although I 
 put a few questions respecting the economic results of this 
 and other government manufacturing establishments, I shall 
 not discuss the matter, as everything of the kind here is so 
 new, and all the circumstances of the country and people 
 are at present so entirely exceptional, that no broad and 
 general inferences from the results of their working could 
 yet he drawn. 
 
 The governor was good enough to take us next to the 
 “ Jiogakko,” or female normal school, established under the 
 auspices of the local government, and in a certain degree 
 under the care of the imperial government. In connection 
 with this school is the “ Jiokoba,” or female industrial 
 establishment, already adverted to. The first-named insti- 
 tution, founded in 1871, is formed with five classes, of which 
 the fifth is the lowest ; but at present only the three lower 
 classes have pupils. The object of this school is stated to 
 be to make girls fit to become good mothers. They must-be 
 thirteen years of age before they can enter, and must pass 
 through a class in six months, undergoing minor examinations 
 monthly, and general examinations in the presence of the 
 governor of Kioto every six months. Some of the students 
 are taught the English language. Boarding in the school is 
 encouraged, the charge for maintenance (food only) being one 
 and a half yen per month (!), the Japanese paper yen being at 
 present about three shillings in value. There is a vacation 
 for the month of August. The subjects taught are those usual 
 in elementary schools, with algebra, geometry, higher arith- 
 metic ; also English grammar and composition in the upper 
 classes. But in addition to the book-learning imparted, the 
 girls receive a very practical education in the duties of daily 
 life. They are taught how to dress, to wait at meals, to 
 receive, salute and entertain guests ; to make tea ceremonial 
 fashion, and to give and take it ; to dispose flowers in 
 vases ; to hang pictures ; to snuff the candles generally 
 employed in all households at present ; to dust rooms ; to 
 eat the larger fruits of the country (melons, etc.) ; to make 
 
 o 2 
 
. 196 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [CHA1>. IX, 
 
 offerings to the gods, and so forth. In the other school, or 
 industrial establishment for girls, there are six classes, in 
 which the instruction is chiefly in the various kinds of 
 needle-work and weaving. In the lowest class the girls are 
 taught plain needle-work ; in the next, plain weaving of 
 cotton, with advanced needle-work ; in the next, the weaving 
 of cotton with patterns, the rearing of silkworms, and the 
 mode of making the broad girdles which form so striking a 
 part of the female costume in J apan ; in the third class, the 
 weaving of silk with cotton, the making up of the tobacco- 
 pouches (which are in universal use throughout the country), 
 and the making of plain dresses are taught ; in the second, 
 the weaving of silk with patterns, and the making of dolls’ 
 dresses, foreign dresses, and silk coats ; and in the first 
 class the girls are practised in every kind of silk-weaving, 
 and in the making of lace, of dancing dresses, and of cere- 
 monial dresses. The pretty and useful art of composing 
 pictures of silk cut out into suitable designs, and -pasted 
 upon a groundwork of cardboard, is also taught, and taught 
 very successfully, in this class.* There are at present one 
 hundred and nine students in the Jiogakko, and one hundred 
 and ninety-six in the Jiokoba. 
 
 Our visit to the normal school was very interesting. 
 Outside of it, as we approached, “ the sweet girl-graduates ” 
 were ranged on either side in their pretty costumes, bowing 
 low as the party of visitors passed in, and remaining so till 
 all had entered the building. Two of the pupils played to 
 us on the Ixoto before we proceeded to the class-rooms, in 
 the first of which were twenty -four girls (all Japanese save 
 one), who are instructed in the English language by an 
 American lady, Mrs. Arnold, who was present, and who 
 invited us to hear some of them read. Several read accord- 
 ingly, and all of them with considerable skill, notably Miss 
 Yo Tamatei and Miss M. Omori, both of them quite young 
 girls. In the next class-room were six young ladies com- 
 
 * Two i)i’etty specimens of this class of art were presented to my son 
 and myself. 
 
CHAP. IX.] KIOTO, THE WESTEItN CAPITAL. 
 
 197 
 
 posing pictures of raised silk, after the manner just adverted 
 to, with exceedingly good effects. We then passed through 
 a room of one hundred girls, all engaged in making dresses, 
 and in needle-work of a similar kind, and I am hound to say 
 that they were an exceedingly pretty set of young ladies, 
 worthy to take very high rank among the beauties of Japan, 
 and fit to compare even with the charming Osaka girls. In 
 the next class-room were six pupils working with sewing- 
 machines, and in the next twenty-five, most of them 
 weaving, the remainder engaged in brocade-work and rug- 
 work. In the succeeding class rooms were thirty girls 
 reading Japanese history aloud in succession, with lifted 
 voices and pronounced emphasis, but with what ‘ amount of 
 merit in other respects I, unhappily, could not judge. 
 (Here, as in all other Japanese schools which I visited, the 
 reading aloud of a passage from a book was immediately 
 followed by explanations from the pupil, in order, I presume, 
 to prove that the text was properly understood and appre- 
 ciated — a very good system if loyally pursued — but it appeared 
 to me, in almost every instance, that the explanations were 
 delivered in precisely the same style and just as fiuently as 
 the text, and were therefore possibly not the spontaneous 
 and immediate products of their own minds.) In the next 
 class-room thirty girls were reading books written in the 
 Chinese character and grammar, but with Japanese meaning ; 
 in the next, twenty girls were doing arithmetic with English- 
 figures ; in the next, twenty-three performing embroidery, 
 and making up pocket-books, tobacco-pouches, etc. ; and 
 finally sixteen were drawing pictures of flowers, trees, etc., 
 in that bold, swift-handed, and dexterous style which is the 
 charm of this branch of Japanese art. I could not help linger- 
 ing in this room among the floral beauties that were springing 
 from the fingers of these pretty Kioto girls, nor could I 
 refrain from begging one of the pictures as a reminiscence 
 of the pleasant scene. The whole sixteen were, however, sent 
 afterwards for my acceptance, and with them two additional 
 drawings on silk of perfect loveliness, as I think them, from 
 the hand of the graceful young lady who was the teacher of 
 
198 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 the class, and over whose work, while I was present, I stood 
 with what was probably ill-concealed, or unconcealed, admi- 
 ration. I need not say how I value these treasures derived 
 from this interesting school of three hundred girls in the 
 heart of the once-sacred city of the once-exclusive empire of 
 Japan. But the best treasure brought from it was, perhaps, 
 after all, the knowledge that Japan is now governed by a 
 monarch and ministers who appreciate, and are resolved to 
 extend to boy and girl alike, the supreme blessing of edu- 
 cation. Many a time has this reflection already been forced 
 upon me in this country, but it seems a fitting place here 
 to record it, when one is speaking more especially of what he 
 saw in this female school of the good work being done, 
 and done throughout Japan not for the stronger sex only, 
 but for the weaker likewise. 
 
 “If she be small, slight-natured, miserable, 
 
 How shall men grow ? ” 
 
 The government of Japan seems to have asked itself this 
 question, and the answer it has given to the world may be 
 read in schools scattered all over the country. 
 
 From the normal school we proceeded to a crape-factory, 
 to see the manufacture of chirimen, a branch of industry I do 
 not remember having seen before, ’and one of considerable 
 interest in this country, where this soft and pretty material 
 is so largely worn. In the course of this afternoon we 
 visited no less than four silk-factories, witnessing, among 
 other things, the production of some exquisitely figured silk 
 velvets, and other goods of that class. These silk-factories 
 in Kioto are on a small scale, but numerous, the choicest and 
 finest manufactures for the Tokio market being produced in 
 some of them. In one we saw under manufacture some 
 exceedingly rich brocaded silk ordered by the household 
 department of his majesty the Mikado, and I am much 
 mistaken if these were not the identical fabrics which were 
 at a later period presented to me by his majesty’s command 
 in the imperial palace at Tokio. 
 
 Our visits to the silk-factories were suspended at luncheon 
 time, which was usefully and pleasantly spent at Karakuko, 
 
CHAP. IX.] 
 
 KIOTO, TEE WESTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 199 
 
 a large school for young men and women established in a 
 splendid building which was constructed a few years ago 
 as the palace of a prince who has since gone elsewhere to 
 reside, and which was no doubt obtained at a moderate cost 
 for its present purpose. This school is in some degree 
 assisted by the government, but is mainly a private one, 
 having two hundred and sixty pupils. We passed through 
 the various class-rooms, hearing the pupils read and 
 expound what they read, and testing, so far as in us lay, 
 the quality of the education given. As a rule, we found the 
 metliods of instruction good, and the teachers combining 
 clearness of exposition with that patience and good temper 
 which are indispensable, especially in the instruction of the 
 very young. There was a girls’ branch to this establishment, 
 where we saw a large number of pupils busily engaged, 
 most of them on needle-work at the time of our visit. Some 
 pretty little specimens of the work were handed to us as 
 mementoes. In return I must do the girls of this school the 
 justice to say that, individually and collectively, they were 
 as pretty as their fellow-students of the normal school, 
 which is the highest compliment I can pay to the beauty 
 of schoolgirls in Japan. 
 
 Another deeply interesting educational establishment 
 which we visited the same day is a female school of 
 industry, where dancing-girls, geishas, and other such 
 young females can receive some elementary instruction, and 
 he taught the domestic arts which are necessary to wives 
 and mothers. Until this kind of institution was started, 
 this class of girls in Japan, and especially in great cities 
 like Kioto, were in a very unfortunate position. Highly 
 educated in the arts of dancing, singing, and waiting at 
 meals on men, their education in other respects was quite 
 neglected, and consequently the ordinary avocations of 
 respectable life, and especially of married life, were closed 
 to them, or open only under the gravest disadvantages. 
 They not unfrequently married well, I am told, hut they 
 were usually very unfit for their new duties in such cases. 
 Under the present regime of Japan, and with the greater 
 
200 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 respect which is now becoming felt not only for the women 
 blit for the men also of the trading and poorer classes, the 
 neglect of this large class of young women and mere girls 
 has been so much deplored that schools of industry, ex- 
 pressly designed to fill up their spare time with instruction 
 in matters that wives and mothers should understand, have 
 been established in different parts of the city, and receive 
 the cheerful support and assistance of the government. We 
 found a number of geishas and dancing-girls busily occu- 
 pied, in the interval of their usual occupation, in receiving 
 instruction in elementary knowledge, and especially in the 
 use of the scissors and needle. The interest which is taken 
 in these institutions by the governor, from whom the pro- 
 posal to make the visit proceeded, is a good omen for their 
 permanent success, until superseded, let us hope, by a 
 wholly improved method of employing the maidens of Japan. 
 
 On the evening of this day we had the honour of dining 
 at the palace of the chief priest of the Eastern Church 
 (Buddhist, Shinshu sect), wdiose invitation, conveyed through 
 his eldest son, had reached us some days previously at Osaka. 
 Those who know the state of things that existed some years 
 ago will alone know how to duly estimate this invitation. The 
 chief priest (or archbishop) was himself at a distant part of 
 his diocese, and the duty of entertaining his excellency the 
 minister of marine and our party devolved upon his sons, 
 who performed it with a cordiality and kindness not to he 
 surpassed. In view of the desire I had shown to visit the 
 temples, it was part of the programme of the afternoon or 
 evening that we should first inspect the temple of our hosts, 
 Higashi Honganji, where we were received by them, and 
 conducted to an apartment in which tea and sweetmeats 
 were served. We were then taken to the shrine-temjile, and 
 went carefully through it. It is not one of any great 
 importance, being hut a temporary edifice erected to take 
 the place for a time of the splendid structure which was 
 burnt down during the fighting between the troops of the 
 Mikado and those of the Tycoon in 18G8. The original 
 temple was built by the chief priest Kionin Shonin, two 
 
CHAP. IX.] 
 
 KIOTO, THE WESTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 201 
 
 hundred and seventy-six years ago. In one of the shrines 
 is the god Amita, and in another the image of Kionin Shonin, 
 carved by himself. In the year 1876 a.d. the high title of 
 Kenshindaishi was given to Shiriran Shonin, the founder of 
 the Shinshu sect, of which, as I have said, our absent host 
 is the eastern metropolitan. 
 
 To reach Kikokute, the palace of the archbishop, we made 
 use of our jinriki-shas, and after again refreshing our jaded 
 selves with tea, strolled into a large and beautiful garden, 
 where, gay with bright flags and curtains, lay at the hank 
 of a lake a fine large barge, carpeted and cushioned, and 
 provided with tea, fruit, cakes, cigars, cigarettes, and other 
 comforts suited to our exhausted condition ! Lest we should 
 require something before actually embarking, an elegant 
 lake-house standing out over the water was bountifully 
 provided with similar necessities — such was the forethought 
 and over-abundant hospitality of our entertainers. The warm 
 atmosphere, the coloured light of the evening, the repose 
 of the lake, the beauty of the islands in it and of the banks 
 beyond, the alluring ease which the boat offered, and that 
 desire to get afloat which ever besets the Englishman, all 
 combined towards one end, and we were speedily gliding- 
 over the crystal calm. There were on the island and banks 
 many objects to attract the eye and gently interest the 
 mind. There was, for example, an old stone pagoda-like 
 monument or To ; it was very low down, and partly submerged, 
 but it was to the memory of a great name, no other than 
 that of Kawarano, Sadaijin, a minister who flourished between 
 seven and eight hundred years ago. There were also some 
 very curious old stone lanterns, which, with their quaint 
 sculpturings of sun and moon and other devices, are always 
 pleasing to look at. There were likewise fine old trees-, with 
 their roots half out of the earth, and their shining summits 
 steeped in the coloured sun. All about the place were large 
 bronze cranes, which, although found to be bronze on suffi- 
 cient inspection, at each new appearance seemed to be on 
 their way from somewhere to somewhere else. AVe landed 
 on the island, and stood upon the site of an old tea-house, 
 
202 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 now burnt down, but which till then had been notable for 
 its ceiling of spears, brought from the battle of Sedsa- 
 gatake, at which seven of the great Taiko’s troops so much 
 distinguished themselves with spears. Ke-embarking, we 
 remained upon the lake till the sun went down behind the 
 hills and began deepening its colours and preparing for the 
 splendid end. Then we landed, and, having still a few 
 minutes to while away, spent them, boy-like, in racing, leap- 
 ing, and other preparations for dinner. And what a dinner ! 
 Although served on a table, it was (by particular desire) 
 Japanese in its character ; it proved to be Japanese, too, in its 
 profusion. I must admit that on this occasion again I was 
 not happy in the use of my chop-sticks, but resolutely I played 
 them, to the exclusion of the knife and fork, though these 
 were provided. Making every allowance for the superior 
 enjoyment which a travelling Englishman would be sure to 
 experience at the table of a Buddhist archbishop in his own 
 palace, whatever the dinner might be, I must maintain that 
 we dined in a manner more than worthy of the occasion— 
 with all due deference to the minister present, be it said. I 
 could not possibly have dined better at my club in St. 
 James’s (and I am homely enough to prefer my dinner there 
 to any which the cafes of Paris or the trahtirs of Eussia 
 produce), although it is true that one has at home to dis- 
 pense with raw fish and seaweed, and other like luxuries of 
 the East. But a choice and lavish banquet was not the 
 only source of enjoyment provided for us. A series of 
 musical and dramatic performances — very much more than 
 we mean by dances, though called by that name — were per- 
 formed throughout the dinner, by performers of the highest 
 class known to Japan. The strange but obviously masterly 
 singing, instrumental music, and pantomimic action of the 
 various artists, coupled with the splendour and w^onder of 
 their costumes, were to me so interesting that I frequently 
 found myself giving more attention to them than to my own 
 performances with the chop-sticks or the salie cup, a lapse 
 
 * See vol. i. p. 197. 
 
CHAP. IX.] KIOTO, THE WESTEBN CAPITAL. 
 
 203 
 
 which, I hope, was forgiven me by my hosts, and will be 
 by my readers. The so-called dances presented were the 
 following, which may possibly be familiar to some, viz. — 
 1. Motchiduki ; 2. Isigami ; 3. Suminuri ; 4. Tsutchigumo ; 
 5. Wtsubosaru. I confess that these names have not a 
 familiar appearance to my own eye, but others may be more 
 fortunate, and better versed in the drama of Japan. 
 
 During the dinner another surprise was prepared for us 
 in the form of a brilliant illumination with coloured lanterns 
 of the lake and gardens. A prettier sight of the kind could 
 not well be anywhere produced. After the dinner and the 
 dances came some of the renowned jugglers of Japan, of 
 whom one very old, very stout, very testy, and very clever 
 representative achieved great distinction, and received great 
 applause. I shall only name one or two of his successes. 
 One was the taking of a small glass globe, about four inches 
 in diameter, and putting a little water into it, and then, 
 without any means that we could see or divine, causing this 
 globe first to become full, and then to play like a fountain, 
 which rose and fell at his command, or as he played upon it 
 with his fan. He also caused the water apparently to play 
 upwards from the bowl through his fan, through any part of 
 it as he pleased, and also to assume various inclined direc- 
 tions, and, in a word, to do whatever he desired. Another 
 of his tricks was to produce a number of paper lanterns, 
 complete, with candles and suspension loops, from a bowl of 
 water, and to cause them to become lighted when he pleased 
 after they had passed from his hand and had been hung 
 up at a distance of several feet from him. One of them 
 would not light, being, he said, too wet ; but after a few 
 minutes had elapsed, he commanded it to become lighted, and 
 it instantaneously became so. At this dinner, as at that at 
 Osaka, the great compliment of placing before an honoured 
 guest a large stand of artificial plants and flowers was again 
 paid. On this occasion the principal figures represented 
 figures dressed in old Japanese costumes, and there was also 
 a fine vase, many beautiful flowers, and other ornaments. 
 The whole of these were cut out of the long turnips of the 
 
204 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 country, and very cleverly coloured. I find that one may 
 always expect in such picture-models to find the pine, the 
 bamboo, and the plum-tree represented, as they were in 
 this instance. After rising from the table, we devoted our- 
 selves to the examination and enjoyment of the many works 
 of art about us, including rare hooks and scrolls of drawings, 
 some of great age and rarity, and others more modern, hut 
 of marked merit. After taking leave of our liberal and court- 
 eous entertainers, we took our departure amidst a blaze of 
 lanterns and basket-torches, and through a crowd of spec- 
 tators, who were hut ill-rewarded, I fear, for their patient 
 waiting. I heard afterwards that the preparations for this 
 afternoon and evening’s proceedings were much greater than 
 appeared even to a careful observer, including a new floor for 
 the dances, and other works requiring time and arrangement. 
 The whole affair was entirely novel in the palace of a 
 Buddhist archbishop, and must certainly have been due to 
 something lying very much beyond any claims to considera- 
 tion which even generous friends may credit me with, and 
 hut for the post of honour being assigned to myself I should 
 have concluded that Japanese archbishops pay wonderful 
 respect to their ministers of the crown. 
 
 Our next day at the sacred city (Thursday, -27th of February) 
 was commenced by an exceedingly pleasant little expedition 
 to the beautiful village of Arashiyama, and by an ascent up 
 the still more beautiful river beyond it. The hospitable 
 governor of Kioto had caused all necessary arrangements to 
 be made for carrying out the trip promptly, and at half 
 past nine we started, a train of a dozen jinrild-slias, to the 
 western part of the city, and beyond, through the garden — 
 for it practically is a vast garden — which stretches away to 
 the hills. Our road lay along a small canal, fed by the 
 mountain streams, and floating scores of boats laden with 
 the produce of the upper lands, chiefly consisting of wood, 
 either in its natural state or in the form of charcoal. Owing 
 to a police officer in n jinriJci-sha going a little ahead of the 
 party to clear the road — a necessity where the roads are 
 narrow and without footpaths, and where even jinriki-shas 
 
CHAP. IX.] KIOTO, THE WESTEllN CAPITAL. 
 
 205 
 
 might do much mischief to children and others if no such 
 precautions were taken — the whole population of the city 
 and the villages turned out to view the transit of the tra- 
 vellers, and thus, here as elsewhere, afforded us an excellent 
 opportunity of seeing them, and observing all their differ- 
 ences of physical aspect, costume, relative cleanliness, and 
 so forth. And here I may remark that, from the same 
 cause, no doubt, we had continual opportunities of seeing 
 the people, and as our route usually lay along fresh lines of 
 thoroughfare, we must have had a passing glance of most of 
 the population of the city and suburbs. And very great 
 differences were observable, more particularly on this occa- 
 sion, when the people of some of the villages appeared in 
 several respects so different from those of others as to 
 suggest, if not a difference of race, at least very marked 
 results of some form of exclusive intermarriage, either on a 
 small or a large scale. After a short drive — if one may 
 call that a drive in which there is no driving to be done, 
 the drawing being done by a man, and therefore in some 
 important respects an equal — we passed through the busy 
 forest-fed village of Udzumasa, and soon afterwards reached 
 Arashiyama, on the hanks of the beautiful Oigawa, and 
 alighted at one of its three well-known tea-houses. From 
 the balconies of this house we obtained fine views of the 
 upper river, and of the high and richly wooded hills beyond. 
 The trees are chiefly cherry * and red maple, and when the 
 former are in flower, in April, the mountain-side is said to 
 present, and doubtless does present, such vast masses of 
 fragrant pink blossoms that the people of Kioto are attracted 
 out in large numbers to t?ie place. In front of the village 
 the river spreads out into broad shallows, with contractions 
 of the bed in places, forming small rapids, down which boats 
 and rafts were frequently gliding, and up which the boats 
 were poled or punted with considerable skill. Large light 
 boats (formed of planks 1 J inches thick, placed edge to edge. 
 
 * The Japanese cherry-tree differs beauty, colour, and odour of its 
 from ours, and is cultivated for the blossoms. 
 
206 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 fastened by sunk nails, and caulked like the Japanese j links, 
 witli a fibre that swells in water) were prepared for ns, as 
 usual with tea, cigarettes, and other necessaries of life, 
 and a number of local fishermen laid out their nets around a 
 deep place, to exhibit the system of fishing there pursued. 
 By stretching a net with sinkers across part of the stream, 
 from the surface to the bottom, the ends bein^ carried 
 higher up stream than the middle, and by then stretching 
 from these ends another such, but shorter, net, the boats 
 and fishermen were inclosed, and the fish with them. The 
 water being singularly pure and clear, the fish were then 
 looked for, and when seen had a light hand-net thrown 
 dexterously over them. Men, stripped for the purpose, then 
 dived after the entangled fish, and brought them to the 
 surface. 
 
 Our boat was soon afterwards taken in tow by three men, 
 each with his own long and very light tow-line separately 
 attached to her, a man at each end with a pole guiding our 
 course, and away we went up the river, which almost imme- 
 diately began to contract, and to pour down against us over 
 a bed of immense rocks and boulders, and through channels 
 so narrow that it seemed scarcely possible for our boat 
 to pass. However, as we drew but about seven inches of 
 water with twelve of us on board, on we went, smoothly 
 gliding along the smoother places, and lifting up our bows 
 and fairly climbing up the steep and rushing waters when 
 the necessity was forced upon us. In some places the boat 
 was but a few inches narrower than the channel, even in the 
 steeper parts, and at others a way for boats had only been 
 obtained by the building of a sort of loose canal wall in the 
 stream at a boat’s width from the shore. The day was fine 
 and warm ; the river pure and full of refreshing sounds ; 
 our tow-ers swift, our steersmen alert ; and nothing was 
 wiinting to the success of the governor's kindly devised 
 excursion. If any other excitement had been needed, it 
 might have been drawn from one of the prettiest pieces of 
 mountain sport that I have ever seen, which occurred before 
 we turned our boat for the descent. High over our heads 
 
CHAP. IX.] KIOTO, THE WESTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 207 
 
 four red deer came bounding from the forest, and hurrying 
 down streamwards as fast as their occasional bewilderment 
 and hesitation would allow them. Presently, still higher 
 above us, appeared the sportsmen, who saw their game hut 
 could not fire without running the risk of bringing down in 
 our boat the first man of their own city, and a few others of 
 less importance (his excellency was not with us), but still 
 valued, doubtless, by some one or another. They therefore 
 generously refrained for the time from what must have been 
 a great temptation, seeing that even in England itself 
 friends far too frequently get so eager after a partridge or a 
 hare as to shoot each other’s eyes out. The deer, however, 
 seemed so little disposed to spoil sport that they made the 
 best of their way toward the guns, and after a third dis- 
 charge one of the herd came rolling down the hillside. It 
 was brought to us for inspection later in the day (with the 
 path of a bullet through its poor little innocent heart), and 
 subsequently passed through the kitchen on its way to our 
 table, and probably now is, more or less, a part of the brain 
 that thinks and the hand that writes this.* The Oigawa 
 Piiver is as unlike the Thames as it could possibly be, but 
 its wooded banks, or rather the wooded hills above them, 
 are in places suggestive of the Thames at Maidenhead, 
 only bcJth sides of the river are equally fine, and the hills 
 are continuous as far up as we went. The governor in- 
 formed me that he frequently has to ascend the Oigawa 
 to a place 8 miles above Arashiyama, and that it can be 
 ascended for 20 miles from that village. On our way we 
 passed several boats and trains of boats, shooting the 
 rapids and sliding swiftly towards the city, and after a 
 while our own boat was turned, and we commenced the 
 descent in like manner. It was a repetition in miniature of 
 the descent of the rapids on the St. Lawrence made six 
 months before, and required as much knowledge and skill 
 on the part of our pilots as is possessed by the old Indian 
 who boards the Montreal boat for a like purpose, and settles 
 
 * This passage was written, of course, a few days afterwards. 
 
208 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 down quietly and proudly to his task though devoid now of 
 his feathers and painted splendours. In many places the 
 thin bottom of the boat was lifted into a series of waves by 
 dragging over the rocks, hut suffered little from it. A little 
 further fishing with lighter nets on a different system on 
 the Arashiyama hank completed our river experiences. 
 
 A mile and a half’s drive after landing, along the wooded 
 bases of the hills, brought us to the Shinto temple of Mat- 
 suno Jinsha, which is one of the largest of those which the 
 imperial government support pecuniarily. It is a very fine 
 temple and beautifully situated, close to the foot of a 
 wooded hill. It was founded nearly twelve hundred years 
 ago by the order of Mommu-Tenno,who reigned from 697 
 A.D. to 707, but it has been thoroughly repaired four times : 
 the present buildings are three hundred and thirty-two 
 years old. It has three shrines, but only one god, Oyamaku, 
 and one goddess, with the interesting name of Ichikishima- 
 himeno-mikoto, which being interpreted means, I am told, 
 that she was the princess Ichikishima, and belonged to the 
 imperial family of the Mikado. The temple bore marks of 
 its association with the imperial family in the form of drapery 
 bearing the imperial crest, and of a pair of Korean dogs (or 
 lions, as some people call them, with little fear of being 
 proved wrong) in front of the principal altar. 
 
 Our drives and our river expedition having occupied some 
 hours, and stimulated us with plenty of fresh air, our 
 thoughts involuntarily began to turn towards our physical 
 refreshment, and I was not surprised to learn that this formed 
 the next part of the programme of our thoughtful hosts. 
 I was surprised, however, and delighted at the arrangements 
 which displayed themselves, when after another drive — 
 during which we passed a large government paper-manu- 
 factory and a macaroni-making establishment, both attracted 
 by the purity of the water — we alighted atKatsuranogobesso,* 
 the country seat of one of the members of the imperial 
 family, where luncheon was spread in an open room, with 
 
 * This palace was built by the great Taiko for the prince of Hatchijouomiya. 
 
CHAP. IX.] KIOTO, THE WESTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 209 
 
 one of the most beautiful gardens that I have seen lying 
 steeped in sun and silence. The palace floor had been 
 covered with carpets and rugs of Kioto manufacture, and 
 furnished European fashion for the occasion, the table de- 
 corated with beautiful plants and flowers, while a boat hung 
 with flags awaited us on the lake, and in a lake-house screened 
 by trees a band of men-musicians discoursed the sweet strains 
 of Japan, so that all that man and Nature could together do 
 to make things pleasant had been done. Luncheon com- 
 menced, the band struck up ‘ Great Feast,’ followed by 
 ‘ Great Peace,’ ‘ See the Conqueror marching back to his 
 Castle,’ ‘ Long live the Son,’ and other Japanese airs, some 
 of which appeared to me to approach much more nearly to 
 European music than any I had before heard. In ‘ Great 
 Peace ’ I was reminded of quiet passages in the ‘ Pastoral 
 Symphony ’ of Beethoven. During the tiffin, the suscepti- 
 bilities of my son and myself were a little shocked by one 
 of the attentions shown us, which consisted in serving alive 
 a large fish taken in the morning, one side of it being almost 
 entirely carved to pieces ; but the carving so done — this 
 being the proof of skill in the artist — that the fish was still 
 quite alive, and had, it seemed, a reproachful look in its 
 moving eye as it was handed round. I know that it is idle 
 to attempt so to live as 
 
 Never to blend our pleasure or our pride 
 
 With sorrow of the meanest thing that feels,” 
 
 for we are continually inflicting sorrow upon something or 
 somebody, and far too often upon some of the nobler “ things 
 that feel ; ” but let us hope that we avoid this as often as 
 possible. At any rate, I was obliged to excuse myself from 
 sharing in the delicacy so much appreciated by some of the 
 party. In a little conversation which followed, I was re- 
 minded of our own mode of slaughtering calves and other- 
 wise torturing animals, and had recalled to my recollection 
 the fact that until the civilising influences of Europe reached 
 Japan, and up to fifteen years ago, the slaughtering of oxen, 
 either old or young, was forbidden there, and considered to 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 p 
 
210 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 be brutal. After lunclieon, the governor did me the honour 
 of giving my health, and we then adjourned to the lovely 
 gardens, where for some time we gave close attention to the 
 music, and the instruments for producing it. A trip on 
 the lake concluded the entertainments of this very delightful 
 place. 
 
 We now drove to the great Toji temple, which is the chief 
 temple in Japan of the Shingon sect of Buddhists, founded 
 by the illustrious Kobo-daishi. It is sometimes known as 
 Kiyoo Gokokuji, and was first built ten hundred and eighty- 
 two years ago, by order of Kuwammu-Tenno (782-805 a.d.). 
 The principal buildings are as follows : 1 . Sai-in, which was 
 originally the dwelling-house of Kobo, where hangs a likeness 
 of himself. It was last rebuilt five hundred years ago. Here 
 is Bishamon, one of the seven gods of wealth. 2. Jokido, 
 with a Kwannon of a thousand hands, over one thousand years 
 old, attended by four guardians of less age. Over this god- 
 dess there is painted on the ceiling an immense and splendid 
 dragon, in black and white, executed sixty years ago by an 
 artist, who received 200 yen, say £40, for drawing it. The 
 priest who kindly received us and showed us through the 
 temple smiled as he communicated this last piece of informa- 
 tion, but whether at the munificence or insignificance of the 
 sum I know not. In this building, if I remember rightly, there 
 was a large collection of gods and lanterns, and other works 
 of art from other temples, and among them an exceedingly 
 clever group of three monkeys, one closing his eyes, another 
 his ears, and another his mouth, with his hands in each case, 
 possibly suggestive of things which so intelligent an animal 
 thought it well to avoid seeing, hearing, or speaking of. 
 We afterwards found this group to be 'popular and oft- 
 repeated in Japan. It must not be taken as unkind if I 
 remark that the gods do not improve in appearance or dignity 
 on being jumbled together in a crowd as they are here; 
 give one a shrine to himself, cover him with a curtain but 
 seldom opened, keep the people at a little distance from him, 
 set him in a dim religious light if seen at all, endow him 
 with great age, and treat him with a fair amount of reverence 
 
CHAP. IX.] 
 
 KIOTO, THE WESTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 211 
 
 and ceremony, and he must be a very poor image indeed if 
 he does not answer the only purpose for which, so the priest 
 positively assured me, he is ever intended, ^viz. that of re- 
 minding us of one whom we cannot see in person, and whom 
 it is most necessary to remember. 3. Kodo, where are to be 
 seen five large statues, and also a superb set of four holy 
 guards, the latter produced by the great Kobo-daishi himself. 
 It was not by any means by wood-carving that Koho-daishi 
 made his reputation and became the founder of a great and 
 powerful sect, hut these fine and vigorous works of his hands 
 indicate how great a force there was in the man. 4. Kondo, 
 wherein is another set of much smaller statues, about three 
 feet in height, but twelve in number, also carved by Koho- 
 daishi, and indicating the same wonderful power in the man 
 as an artist. 5. Toba, or the Pagoda, which is 18 feet square, 
 and 180 feet in height. The first pagoda was burnt down 
 two hundred and forty-six years ago, and the present 
 structure rebuilt by the Shogun lyemitsu. At present it 
 possesses hut a poor assortment of images. There are in 
 these Toji temples other more remarkable gods, including two 
 called Bouden, each with three heads and four arms ; but the 
 great charm of Toji to me — and it had a great charm — was 
 the fact of its standing, like so many other Japanese temples, 
 in a fine open wooded park, where the people cannot come 
 without benefit, and which supplies liberally that free 
 breathing-space which our cities and towns at home so often 
 need. I wonder whether the time will ever come again when 
 religious sects in our country will contrive to minister to the 
 minds and souls of the people in temples round which the 
 open air of heaven can freely circulate, and where in the 
 shade of trees, and with the conveniences of life provided, 
 they can be made to feel that religious worship can be asso- 
 ciated with a noble regard for body and soul alike ! At 
 any rate, I feel grateful to the priests and demi-gods and 
 Mikados and Tycoons of this country that they have not 
 made prisons of their temples, but have liberally secured 
 for the crowded people the blessings of air and light, and 
 all the other blessings which attend them. 
 
 p 2 
 
212 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 I must admit, however, that life has not always been, and 
 may not always remain, couleur de rose even at the Toji 
 temples. The storms of war have ravaged them too often, 
 and nine hundred years ago some of them were shaken down 
 by an earthquake, together with other temples, and a few 
 palaces in Kioto, no less than fifty precious priests being 
 crushed into utter inutility in one temple alone. 
 
 From the Toji temples we drove by appointment to the 
 great Shinshu temple of Nishi-Honganji, at which the 
 archbishop of the Western Church had previously invited our 
 party to share his hospitality. This is a famous and splendid 
 temple, and a cordial invitation from the head of the 
 (western) Shinshu faith to dine there was one which could 
 not be other than welcome to a stranger like myself desirous 
 of seeing the inner life of the country. Our reception and 
 entertainment were in every way worthy of our host, who, 
 with his brother, spared no pains to make us welcome and 
 happy. At the entrance-door of the temple-palace we were 
 received by the brother of the chief priest, who, after 
 conducting and introducing us to his eminence, if I may so 
 call him, and offering refreshments, conducted us through 
 the temples, and then to a garden and a house which was 
 formerly the summer residence of the great Taiko (Hideyoshi), 
 with reminiscences of whom the place abounded. Here the 
 chief priest, a man comparatively young, and of handsome 
 presence — whose office, by-the-by, is hereditary — ^joined us 
 and went with us over the place. The house was perfumed 
 with sweet-smelling incense, and in one of the rooms the 
 art of burning it ceremonially was shown in detail, and 
 with various woods producing different odours, it being 
 explained that one of the modes of amusing the guests of 
 priests when time has to be past is to produce different 
 scents, and set the guests guessing the wood from which it 
 was produced — a pastime obviously requiring, for its suc- 
 cessful pursuit, some experience of temple life and incense- 
 burning. There was no time in the present instance to 
 study this mode of amusement, nor even to see the ceremonial 
 system of burning the incense fully carried out, hut what 
 
cirAP. IX.] KIOTO, TEE WESTEBN CAPITAL. 
 
 213 
 
 we saw sufficed to show how pleasant a pastime the produc- 
 tion of sweet-scented incense may he made. In the same 
 room was shown another and more artistic form of pastime, 
 a very pretty landscape with sea, formed in a tray with 
 coloured sands, a piece of greystone that had belonged to 
 Yoshimasa being employed as a rock or mountain in the 
 model. In a tea-room was a letter written by the Taiko to 
 an ancestor of our host, himself a chief priest of the sect 
 and temple in Taiko’s day. In one of the windows was 
 Taiko’s crest, formed by the mere cutting of the crest 
 through a wood panel, showing the crest in light. We 
 ascended a tower in this building known as Taiko’s Tower, 
 which had served as his private study, and in which he had, 
 with great ability and ingenuity, painted a picture in gold 
 dust, so laid on and placed with regard to the light that 
 it was impossible for even the most privileged visitor to see 
 it without bowing himself almost to the ground, of course 
 in Taiko’s presence. 
 
 After a long stroll through the buildings and gardens, we 
 proceeded to the temple-palace, and there, in a very large 
 room, sat down to dinner, a dozen of the principal guests at 
 an upper cross table, our subordinate officers and attendants 
 at a separate table at some distance from the others. On 
 this occasion, as on the previous evening’s entertainment, 
 our hosts sat in the lowest seats at the main table, at two 
 short side- wings arranged for the purpose. We dined at a 
 table, sitting in chairs, but in all other respects the sumptuous 
 dinner was served Japanese fashion, as I had desired, and 
 included besides the usual luxuries some special ones, such 
 as choice portions of whale, etc. Our hosts were most kind 
 and considerate, occasionally leaving their seats and coming 
 to make inquiries, or to give information respecting the 
 dances. These were performed by the festival dancers of 
 the temple, and accompanied by the temple band and 
 singers— all men and boys. The dresses worn were those 
 used at the great ceremonials of the church, and were quite 
 wonderfully rich and imposing. The dances were also the 
 ceremonial dances of the church, most of them being derived 
 
214 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 from India through China, hut others of them being purely 
 Japanese. Some which had been brought from China had 
 ceased to he performed there, and can only now he seen in 
 this temple. Although in China they were performed with 
 songs, it was found that the songs were not suited to Japan, 
 and consequently have never been used there. The first dance 
 represented the moA^ements of birds in a Buddhist temple 
 in India ; in the second, butterfiies were supposed to he 
 imitated, and this involved a certain amount of stepping 
 and posturing movements which reminded one of European 
 dances more than any previously seen in Japan — more espe- 
 cially of the preliminary movements of our ballet-dancers 
 before the frenzy sets in. The third dance was purely 
 J apanese, introduced seven hundred years ago, and performed 
 in the old military costume of the country, the headdresses 
 of which, with other parts, were the military fashion down to 
 the time of the revolution of 1868. Outside of the banquet- 
 hall, and visible through the far end of it, were large basket- 
 torches blazing, as is usual when the festival dances are 
 proceeding. 
 
 We had the very great advantage on this occasion of the 
 presence of a highly educated priest, Akamatz, who had 
 been to Europe to study and report on the religions of the 
 West, and who spoke English very well, haAung been two and 
 a half years in England. Ho took great pains to exj)lain in 
 a quiet Avay everything as it proceeded, slipping round from 
 his place at the side-wing of the table for this purpose as 
 often as it appeared to him desirable. It may he interesting 
 to some of my readers to learn that this excellent priest, 
 possessing a knowledge of England and the English, and 
 also the chief priest who was our host on this occasion, 
 find embraced in their section of the Buddhist faith all that 
 they consider good and true in the Christian religion, and 
 are not without hope of seeing England adopt this view, and 
 with it the tenets and practice of their faith, which they 
 consider most excellent.* It will he gratifying, doubtless. 
 
 See a pivvions notice of INIr. Akamatz, with a paper from bis pen, in 
 the chapter on Buddhism (vol. i. p. S4). 
 
CHAP. IX.] KIOTO, THE WESTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 215 
 
 to the many good people at home who look upon Buddhists 
 as eligible for conversion to their particular views of the 
 Christian religion (whatever they may happen to be in each 
 case), to find their own generous and beneficent intentions 
 so entirely reciprocated. And this may be the proper place 
 to mention the figures given to me in connection with this, 
 the Shinshu sect of Buddhists of Japan. The eastern 
 branch of the Church has 10,000 temples and 4,500,000 
 believers ; the western branch has 4500 temples, and 
 2,000,000 believers. What is the exact force of the word 
 “ believers ” in this statement I do not know — any more 
 than I know what is meant when I hear of millions of 
 Christians in England. • For my part I am always charmed 
 to meet even a few people occasionally of whom it may in 
 truth be said that they remotely approximate to one’s idea 
 of what a Christian professes and undertakes to be. But I 
 know not where are to he found the millions of “ the poor in 
 spirit,” the “ meek,” “ they which do hunger and thirst after 
 righteousness,” the “ merciful,” the “ pure in heart,” the 
 “ peacemakers,” and the others upon whom the author of 
 Christianity pronounced his benedictions, and to whom he 
 promised “ the kingdom of heaven.” However, there are 
 perhaps many more likely to receive these rewards than 
 some among us are willing to believe, and that is a great 
 satisfaction. 
 
 In the course of the evening I ventured to ask the chief 
 priest to favour me with an autograph writing from his 
 hand — a thing very difficult indeed to obtain, as I after- 
 wards learnt. He was good enough to comply, and wrote 
 on ornamental paper a sentiment in favour of religious 
 comprehensiveness. 
 
 At this banquet, as at former ones, the honour was done 
 us of placing before us, towards the end of the dinner, a 
 large and finely coloured model picture, wrought out of 
 perishable materials — the large turnip, or radish, daihon. 
 In this case also it was decorated additionally with flowers 
 and other ornaments, which it was expected would be carried 
 away by ourselves and other guests. At the conclusion some 
 
216 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 time was spent in examining drawings, lacqner-ware, and 
 other works of art of a choice kind. We afterwards took our 
 leave, and drove away through the torches and the lanterns 
 and the crowd waiting outside, and by the time we reached 
 our lodgings we felt — and I hope my readers will admit — 
 that into this day, at least, a fair amount of pleasure, sight- 
 seeing, travelling, and excitement had been compressed. 
 
 The following day, quite early, our host of the previous 
 evening called at our residence to inquire after our well- 
 being, and to offer as a present — for the smallness of which 
 he made excuses — two specimens of the Kioto silk-manu- 
 facture : so that courtesy and kindness were carried to their 
 full lengths by him in this case. In return he requested 
 cartes de visits^ and a piece of writing of my own composition, 
 and I accordingly wrote out for him a few verses of a poem 
 which I had amused myself by composing in ih.e jinrihi-slia 
 on the previous day — a long drive through a pleasant 
 country in a small carriage in which you necessarily sit 
 alone being very favourable, as already hinted, to literary 
 composition of the compressed kind, which poetry should of 
 course he. The subject of the verses, if I remember rightly, 
 was an attempt to reconcile the omnipotence of a god of 
 love with the manifold injuries done to man by the forces of 
 nature, and with the existence of so many creatures of prey ; 
 for, as Tennyson says in ‘ Maud ’ — 
 
 “Nature is one with rapine, a harm no preacher can heal; 
 
 The May-fly is torn by the swallow, the sparrow spear’d by the 
 shrike. 
 
 And the whole little wood where I sit is a world of plunder and 
 prey.” 
 
 Nor was the subject other than strictly appropriate to 
 one mixing intimately, as I then was, with the ministers 
 and followers of the gentle Siddartha (Buddha), whose soul 
 was so deeply moved by the same problem : — 
 
 “Then marked he, too. 
 
 How lizard fed on ant, and snake on him; 
 
 And kite on both ; and how the fish-hawk robbed 
 Tlie fish-tiger of that which it had seized; 
 
CHAP. IX.J 
 
 KIOTO, THE WESTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 217 
 
 The shrike chasing the bulbul, which did chase 
 The jewelled butterflies; till everywhere 
 Each slew a slayer and in turn was slain, 
 
 Life living upon death. So the fair show 
 Veiled one vast, savage, grim conspiracy 
 Of mutual murder, from the worm to man. 
 
 Who himself kills his fellow. . . . 
 
 The Prince Siddartha sighed : ‘ Is this,’ he said, 
 
 ‘That happy earth they brought me forth to see? 
 
 How salt with sweat the peasant’s bread ! How hard 
 
 The oxen’s service! In the brake how tierce 
 
 The war of weak and strong 1 i’ th’ air what plots ! 
 
 No refuge e’en in water. Go aside 
 A space, and let me muse on what ye show.’ 
 
 So saying, the good Lord Buddha seated him 
 Under a jambu-tree, with ankles crossed — 
 
 As holy statues sit — and tirst began 
 To meditate this deep disease of life. 
 
 What its far source, and whence its remedy. 
 
 So vast a pity tilled him, such wide love 
 For living things, such passion to heal pain. 
 
 That by their stress his princely spirit passed 
 To ecstasy.”* 
 
 After the departure of his eminence we drove to an 
 exhibition which is in course of formation at Kioto, in a 
 palace formerly occupied by the mother of the Mikado. On 
 our way we drove past and through the grounds of several 
 palaces that had been abandoned by members of his majesty’s 
 family and by nobles since the transfer of the capital to 
 Tokio. In one of these a permanent museum is to he built, 
 and also a permanent exhibition building — illustrations of 
 the great change which has passed and is passing over this 
 land under the new system, of the best features of which 
 the Mikado is the warmest supporter, I am told. There 
 is in the part-formed exhibition at present chiefly articles 
 of historic interest : among them, banners taken from the 
 Koreans by the army of Taiko, dresses that had belonged to 
 Taiko, writings on linen by the learned priest Kobo-daishi 
 (who died ten centuries and a half ago), and articles brought 
 by him from China, very old Japanese brocaded silks and 
 
 * E. Arnold’s beautiful ‘ Light of Asia,’ pp. 20-22. 
 
218 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 embroidery, old Dutch tapestry, a cup from which an attend- 
 ant of Taiko’s son heroically drank a poisoned draught 
 intended for his master,* a fan richly ornamented with 
 pearls presented to Taiko by the king of Korea, two fans 
 eleven hundred years old that had belonged to Shotoku- 
 taishi, and a superb collection of old swords. 
 
 We next went to inspect in the same neighbourhood the 
 carriage in which his majesty the Mikado used to move 
 about on state occasions. It was a very large and heavy 
 carriage, effectually shut in all round by close screen-work 
 when in use, and drawn by an ox and by men together. 
 Fortunately for the Mikado, he was not often required to 
 avail himself of this mode of travelling, as he was so seldom 
 allowed to leave his palace grounds. There was a similar 
 carriage hard by. Our next visit was to a very long building 
 containing an immense collection of old Chinese and Japanese 
 drawings, and books brought together from the temples of 
 Japan for permanent exhibition, including some portraits of 
 large size brought over nearly eleven centuries ago from 
 China. Among the books were histories and records of the 
 greatest literary value, and the whole place appeared to me 
 to be an immense mine of historic and artistic wealth, in 
 which, doubtless, when it is made public, learned men will 
 delve and toil with all that industry which they are known 
 to bring to such work. 
 
 From these treasures we proceeded to the local govern- 
 ment college, where the governor met us and accompanied 
 us through the class-rooms. We spent some time in attend- 
 ing to the different lessons in progress, and were, with a 
 single exception, much gratified with the tone and method 
 with which the lessons were given, and with the obviously 
 good relations between the teacher and pupil. This relation 
 has always existed, I believe, in Japan, and is one of the 
 things that one would regret to see changed. “ The jDro- 
 fessors and teachers were held in the greatest reverence, and 
 
 * This rough old cup was pur- and seut two servants of his owu to 
 chased for live thousaud dollars by permanently guaid it. 
 a prince, who presented it to a temple 
 
Origin of the Kake-Mono, or Hanging Picture. 
 
 From Hokusai. Reproduced for this Work by a Japanese Engraver. 
 
 To Jace page 218, Vol. II. 
 
CHAP. IX.] KIOTO, THE WESTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 219 
 
 it was deemed the gravest offence for the scholars to show 
 their impatience or their lack of interest by yawning, 
 lounging, or moving their positions. Perhaps to this early 
 severe training, carried on through many generations, are 
 due that wonderful imperturbability of temper and that 
 courtesy of manner which characterise the higher classes of 
 Japan.” * One of the students of the college, in the second 
 class, declaimed from memory a portion of Grattan’s “ Eulogy 
 on William Pitt,” with marked ability, and with hut few 
 departures from the pronunciation and accent with which a 
 well-educated youth in England would have delivered it, 
 while his emphasis was throughout strikingly good.j Our 
 next visit was to the mute and blind asylum for children, 
 through the classes of which we w^ent, not I trust without 
 
 * ‘ Outline History of Japanese 
 Education,’ prepared for Philadelphia 
 Exhibition by the Japanese Depart- 
 ment of Education. 
 
 t I requested the young gentle- 
 man to write out and send me the 
 quotation ; and I received from him, 
 a few hours afterwards, a well-written 
 note inclosing a clean and correct 
 copy of the extract. His note ran: 
 “ To the Hon. Mr. Keecl, M.P. Here- 
 with please receive a copy of the 
 extract from Grattan’s Eulogy on 
 William Pitt, Earl of Chatham, which 
 you were so kind as to notice and 
 request after my poor attempt at 
 declaiming the same. I have the 
 honour to subscribe myself, with high 
 respect, yours sincerely, Y. Yoshioka. 
 Kioto Chin Gakko, 28, 2, ’79. P.S. 
 — My age ” (for which I had asked) 
 “ is sixteen years. — Y. Y.” The first 
 part of the piece recited was as fol- 
 lows; I give it for the purpose of 
 showing that in forcibly declaiming 
 such a strain of eloquence the student 
 exhibited a very close acquaintance 
 with both the solid and the rhetorical 
 uses of our language : “ The secretary 
 stood alone. Modern degeneracy 
 
 had not reached him. Original and 
 unaccommodating, the features of his 
 character had the hardihood of anti- 
 quity; his august mind overawed 
 majesty ; and one of his sovereigns 
 thought royalty so impaired in his 
 presence, that he conspired to remove 
 him in order to be relieved from his 
 superiority. No state chicanery, no 
 narrow systems of vicious politics, no 
 idle contest for ministerial victories, 
 sank him to the vulgar level of the 
 great ; but overbearing, persuasive, 
 and impracticable, his object was 
 England. Without dividing, he de- 
 stroyed party ; without corrupting, 
 he made a venal age unanimous. 
 France sank beneath him ; with one 
 hand he smote the house of Bourbon, 
 and wielded in- the other the demo- 
 cracy of England. Tire sight of his 
 mind was infinite, and his schemes 
 were to aflect, not England, not the 
 present age only, but Europe and 
 posterity. Wonderful were the means 
 by which these schemes were accom- 
 plished, always reasonable, always 
 adequate, the suggestions of an un- 
 derstanding animated by ardour and 
 enlightened by foresight.” 
 
220 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 compassion for the many little sufferers whose efforts to 
 reach by painful labours those elements of knowledge and of 
 pleasure which most of us acquired so easily were but too 
 pitiable. So far as I could judge, the systems of instruction 
 j)ursued were like those employed in Europe, many of the 
 materials differing greatly of course from ours, owing to the 
 great difference in the character of the letters and other 
 symbols employed. This visit concluded our morning’s 
 round. 
 
 In the afternoon we visited some of the small porcelain 
 works of Kioto on the hill at the south-east of the town. 
 The articles produced are much admired, but as no special 
 orders were at the time under execution, there was little to 
 be seen of an exceptional kind. Thence we proceeded on 
 foot to the temple of Kiyomidzu (Clear- water Temple), from 
 the front of which is afforded a fine view of the country 
 south and west of Kioto, showing the great military import- 
 ance of the road stretching away to Osaka, and accounting 
 for the prolonged and bloody struggles that have there 
 taken place between armies contending for the mastery of 
 what then was the Mikado’s capital. It was at this temple, 
 and with this view before him, that the famous Taiko 
 Hideyoshi, whom one has so often to mention, was once 
 sitting, with his brain teeming with plans for the conquest 
 of Korea and China, and his heart sad because of the loss of 
 a child borne to him by his favourite wife. But Mr. Griffis 
 shall tell the romantic story for us : “ One day he went 
 out to a temple, Kiyomidzu, in Kioto, to beguile the sad 
 hours. Lost in thought, in looking over the western sky 
 beyond the mountains, he suddenly exclaimed to his attend- 
 ant, ‘A great man ought to employ his army beyond ten 
 thousand miles, and not give way to sorrow.’ Eeturning to 
 his house, he assembled his generals, and fired their enthu- 
 siasm by recounting their exploits mutually achieved. He 
 then promised to march to Peking, and divide the soil of 
 China in fiefs among them. They unanimously agreed, and 
 departed to the various provinces to prepare troops and 
 materials. Hideyoshi himself went to Kiushiu. On his 
 
CHAP. IX.] KIOTO, THE WESTEEN CAPITAL. 
 
 221 
 
 way some one suggested that scholars versed in Chinese 
 should accompany the expedition. Hideyoshi laughed, and 
 said, ‘ This expedition will make the Chinese use our litera- 
 ture.’ After worshipping at a shrine, he threw up a handful 
 of one hundred cash in front of the shrine, and said, ‘ If I am 
 to conquer China, let the heads show it.’ The Japanese 
 copper and iron zeni, or has, have Chinese characters repre- 
 senting the chronological period of coinage on one side, and 
 waves representing their circulation as money on the reverse. 
 The lettered side is ‘ head,’ the reverse is ‘ tail.’ All the 
 coins which the Taiko flung up came down heads. The 
 soldiers were delighted with the omen. Maps of Korea 
 were distributed among the commanders of the eight 
 divisions, and the plan of the expedition and their co- 
 operation explained.” Hideyoshi’s generals — for he gave 
 up the idea of going himself — were very successful at first 
 in Korea, killing ten thousand men in one battle, and 
 pickling their twenty thousand ears to preserve them as 
 trophies ; but they had eventually to fall hack, and to return 
 home (as previously narrated), so that nothing came in the 
 end of Hideyoshi’s outrage upon the Koreans, and he died 
 soon afterwards. I can hardly understand the state of mind 
 of a man upon whom the beautiful and peaceful view from 
 the front of the temple of Kiyomidzu can have had the 
 effect which it had upon him ; for my part, I felt as little 
 disposed as I ever felt in my life to murder people even 
 individually, much less by tens of thousands, when standing 
 on the same spot, and I am very sorry Hideyoshi did not 
 stop at home and amuse his generals with the invisible 
 picture in his summer-house which I have previously men- 
 tioned, instead of going up there and fretting himself into 
 a day-dream of ambition and conquest. 
 
 It is not only in front that the temple of Kiyomidzu 
 presents a fine view, for at the hack of it is a grand wooded 
 amphitheatre, with a three-stream waterfall dropping veil- 
 like through it. It has two pagodas, one of them small 
 and one large. There is also a ten-leaved To, or square 
 stone pillar cut into horizontal leaves, and good people, 
 
222 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 desiring to become better, or to get something which they 
 want, throw stones and endeavour to make them lodge upon 
 the To, they whose stones lodge getting what they want, or 
 persuading themselves that they will get it, which amounts 
 to nearly the same thing. The temple is reached by a long 
 flight of steps, and the gate is guarded by gatekeepers, as 
 is so frequently the case with Buddhist temples. 
 
 A descent south-westward, through a bamboo-plantation, 
 and past the houses of some of the very poor people (small 
 tanners, I think they were, and tanners have been held in 
 so little esteem in Japan that in measuring road-distances 
 the length of a town occupied by them has been omitted 
 altogether as not existing"*") brought us to the fine Shinshu 
 temple of Nishi-Otani, which is under the control of the 
 archbishop with whom we had dined the previous evening, 
 and where the friendly priest Akamatz was good enough 
 to receive us. Otani, I may say in passing, is the family 
 name of the archbishop, and this temple contains many 
 memorials of his ancestors. It is approached by a bridge of 
 a peculiar construction, having two arches, each of which 
 is a complete circle, so that it has become known as the 
 “ spectacle bridge.” Nishi-Otani is allowed the privilege 
 of employing the crest of the Mikado, which accordingly 
 appears frequently in the construction and decoration of the 
 temple. Besides the beauty of the temple itself, and its 
 furnishings, there were several objects of interest; among 
 them, some carvings of figures which had ornamented 
 the vessels of the Taiko’s Korean expedition; some very 
 fine drawings of Japanese sea-dragons, and screens painted 
 by Okio. 
 
 On the evening of this day the governor was so good 
 as to arrange for our after-dinner entertainment a series 
 of national dances, performed by a select but large number 
 (at times) of the pretty dancers of Kioto. Before pro- 
 ceeding to the place of entertainment he presented me with 
 
 * This is also tlie case sometimes— or used to be — where roads traverse 
 certain battle-fields. 
 
CHAP. IX.] KIOTO, THE WESTERN CAPITAL 
 
 223 
 
 an album of beautiful photographs of the once sacred city 
 and its charming environs — a souvenir which I shall always 
 highly value. I cannot describe, at length, the dances, 
 although they were all more or less dramatic ; but they 
 served to illustrate and make clear many things that would 
 be unintelligible in Japan, and especially in Japanese art, 
 without their aid, more particularly as regards costumes 
 and attitudes, which, while surviving in the various fine arts 
 of the country, are now to be actually seen only in these 
 dances. The principal compliment paid this evening was 
 towards the end of the entertainment, when the professional 
 dancing-girls gave way to a large number of young ladies 
 of the place, whose parents had most kindly allowed them 
 to attend for the purpose, and who danced with such in- 
 dividual and combined skill as to greatly surprise us. The 
 orchestra consisted for the time of a dozen of these young 
 beauties, for such they were, and fully twenty more of them 
 advanced, not from behind the stage as with us, but from 
 the front, along the sides of the hall. They were richly 
 dressed in robes of the usual shape and size, but of black, 
 red, and gold — with marked differences, therefore, from the 
 dresses of the professional girls — and although it in some 
 respects resembled a ballet in Europe, the decorum of the 
 dances appeared to be quite perfect. At the conclusion, 
 they came and ranged themselves, by special desire, in front 
 of us, to give a nearer view of their pretty faces and 
 dresses, and I should be glad if I had the power of pre- 
 venting any part of their loveliness from decaying for many 
 a year to come. 
 
 The remainder of our spare time in Kioto was chiefly 
 spent in visiting silk- and c7im7ue?^-manufactories, dyeing- 
 houses, shops for the sale of porcelain, bronzes, etc., and in 
 strolling about the streets and witnessing the ways and 
 habits of the people, so far as the weather, which was 
 frequently wet and depressing, would admit. The perfection 
 to which the ornamentation of silk and cut-pile fabrics is 
 carried in Kioto, by embroidering, embossing, painting, and 
 dyeing processes, is very remarkable, as is the low price of 
 
224 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 the many beautiful articles so produced. Some of the 
 processes were quite novel, hut they were shown to us 
 readily, and apparently without reserve. The same remarks 
 hold with respect to the beautiful Japanese chirimens and 
 crapes. It is a trying thing even for a man, and it would 
 be sheer torture for a lady, who has resolved not to spend 
 much money to visit these shops and establishments in 
 Kioto. To come away without putting yourself into 
 possession of a good supply of these materials, which are 
 always acceptable presents to ladies, is to develop, no doubt, 
 a pronounced form of self-denial ; hut it is likewise also to 
 subject yourself to reproach whenever afterwards you face 
 your wife or your lady friends ; ladies and their dress- 
 makers are so clever in turning these fabrics of every colour 
 and kind to pretty and picturesque account, and are so glad 
 to have the opportunity of doing so. A Kioto china-shop 
 is also an unpleasant j)lace for John Bull, or any represen- 
 tative of his ; the forms there given to teapots, cups, saucers, 
 and a thousand other things are so pretty and various, and 
 the colouring of them is so elegantly executed. 
 
 It is proper to say, how^ever, that a part of one of these 
 last days in Kioto was devoted to an inspection of another of 
 those schools for instructing geishas and dancing-girls in 
 needle-work and other useful matters to which I have 
 previously adverted, and his effective support of which does 
 the governor of Kioto so much honour. We also visited a 
 training-school in which the national arts of music, singing, 
 and dancing are taught. The business of this establish- 
 ment seemed to he conducted with great order and system, 
 and it was an interesting sight to pass through the little 
 class-rooms and observe the poor elderly creatures, com- 
 paratively speaking, whose days of grace and fascination 
 had for ever passed awvay from them, and who wnre now, as 
 they fondly supposed, teaching younger ones how to master 
 the mysteries of what was to themselves for evermore a lost 
 art. Alas ! the only instruction which they could possibly 
 give must have been of the most rudimentary and formal 
 kind ; but happily for the young ones, youth, and the 
 
CHAP. IX.] KIOTO, THE WESTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 225 
 
 sagacities and instincts and inspirations of youth, could well 
 he left to teach the rest. Wherever men were employed in 
 teaching the young dancing-girls, they were invariably 
 either old or blind, and generally both, and dreadful-looking 
 into the bargain. If such a conjunction of beauty and 
 horror is a necessity, it is certainly a very sad one. 
 
 We also visited a school where the art of ceremonial tea- 
 making is taught. It is said that the practice of this art, 
 which I have frequently had occasion to mention before, was 
 originally established for the promotion of friendly relations 
 at a time when society was much torn by factions and by 
 war, and the spinning out of the time must certainly have 
 been part of the scheme. Time is so precious nowadays, 
 however, in Japan as elsewhere, that the ceremony is 
 usually much compressed, and in this modern form it is 
 pleasant enough. It is, however, declining, the peaceful 
 pursuit of manufactures, commerce, and arts furnishing 
 abundant opportunities for bringing people together in a 
 friendly way. 
 
 There are several places and things of interest in and near 
 Kioto which we had not time to visit. There is, for ex- 
 ample, the great Dai-butsu, which, however, being of wood, 
 and less ancient, is of greatly inferior interest to that of 
 Nara. I am sorry to say that the Dai-hutsu of Kioto is also 
 a somewhat degraded personage as compared with him of 
 Nara, for while both have been subjected to rough treat- 
 ment from the powers of nature, the Kioto one has had 
 to undergo the ill-usage of man likewise. It is sad to read* 
 that “ an earthquake took place on the fifth day fifth month 
 second year Saiko (855), and the head of the famous Dai-butsu 
 at Nara was thrown down but how much sadder to read 
 that not only did the great earthquake of 1596 throw down 
 Kioto’s Dai-butsu, hut that the great Taiko, on seeing it in 
 ruins, became flushed with anger, and saying- scornfully, 
 “ I placed you here at an immense expense, with no other 
 purpose than that you might watch over and help the 
 people, and you cannot even help yourself,” discharged an 
 arrow at the poor broken idol in its hour of impotence and 
 
 VOL. II. Q 
 
226 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 sliame. We had cause enough to he angry with Hideyoshi 
 a few pages ago with reference to the wrongful deterrui- 
 nation which he came to when meditating in front of the 
 temple of Kiyomidzu ; but we hardly thought that a few 
 years after he would be so rash and hot-headed as to fire 
 an arrow at the very god whom he himself set up, and to do 
 so, apparently, only because he had not set him up properly, 
 or with due regard to the fact that Kioto, and indeed all 
 Japan, as Japanese well know, rests upon the hack of an 
 immense catfish, which starts earthquakes every time it 
 moves ! 
 
 Our strolls through the streets of Kioto were highly 
 amusing, especially when we took a turn along that street in 
 particular which was principally devoted to the amusements 
 of the people, and to the sale of tobacco and photographs. 
 Here were the booths of the story-tellers ; the waxwork 
 heroes and heroines, respectively terrible and beautiful, and 
 wonderful all; the conjurers, the tumblers, the loose-rope 
 walkers ; the working models of the unmentionable had 
 place, with the saws, and the augurs, and the other instru- 
 ments for disintegrating the naughty, all at work by hand 
 machinery ; the curious animals, and the still more curious 
 people that Nature sometimes makes in mistake ; and perhaps 
 more important than all, those long-tailed ancestors of ours 
 who appear to have been made so without any mistake, and 
 who linger superfluous on the stage now that their descendants 
 have become as clever as my readers and I know ourselves to 
 •he. It was curious also to see, as we did here, peepshows of 
 warlike scenes and battles in which were figuring several of 
 the ministers, generals, and admirals whose acquaintance we 
 had had the privilege of making in Tokio, and among them 
 our distinguished host Admiral Kawamura, then in Kioto 
 itself with us, hut employing his time at the moment in a 
 better way than that of peering into something even 
 humbler than the penny peepshow of my native England. 
 It was curious, too, to see in the photograph-shops these 
 same ministers, generals, and admirals aforementioned, hut 
 here appearing, for the most part, not in their present 
 
CHAP. IX.] KIOTO, TEE WESTERN CAPITAL. 
 
 227 
 
 modernised and European attire, but in the quaint and 
 picturesque dresses and headdresses of Old Japan. On one 
 or two occasions I saw in the interior of Japan a photograph 
 of one of my own ships (as we professional men fondly, but 
 most improperly, call the ships we have built or designed 
 for others) ; and, after certain photographic experiences of 
 ours in Tokio, Nagasaki, and Nagoya, it is possible that 
 some of the travelling readers of this work may hereafter be 
 privileged to purchase the portrait of its author in the Sacred 
 Land for a few cents. I caution them, however, against 
 doing so, on the ground that 'Japan is a country in which 
 nature and art combine to produce much more pleasing 
 productions, and their money could therefore be better 
 laid out. 
 
 Then there is the village of Uji, which, if I may judge 
 by a photograph, is an extremely pretty riverside place. 
 We had arranged to visit it, but the probable condition 
 of the road after heavy rains deterred us. And then there 
 is the sacred mountain, Hiyei-zan, after which is named one 
 of the imperial corvettes which I had built for his majesty. 
 With this mountain are connected many important inci- 
 dents in the history of Japan, and although we did not 
 ascend it, it was so conspicuous an object on our approach 
 to the city and during our stay in it, that I think it well 
 to condense into a small compass, in the following lines, 
 a few observations upon it from the pen of a gentleman 
 who went over it in 1877, notwithstanding the record in 
 previous chapters of the principal facts connected with the 
 famous temples of Enriaku-ji (here spelt Yenriyakuji) : — * 
 
 Ancient annals record that the first temple erected on it was founded 
 by Shotoku-taishi. In 788 a learned priest, Saicho, by command of 
 Kuwammu, the first Mikado of Kioto, built another temple, called, with 
 its surrounding shrines, Yenriyakuji. Saicho was sent to China to 
 learn the doctrines of the Buddhist sect, subsequently called Tendai, 
 which he introduced into Japan on his return. He brought back 
 
 * Condensed from ‘ Some Scenes Read before the Asiatic Society of 
 
 between the Ancient and the Modern Japan, June 1878. 
 
 Capitals of Japan,’ by W. J. Dixon. 
 
 Q 2 
 
• 228 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX, 
 
 witli him a thousand sacred hooks, and the first tea-plants ever seen 
 in his country. Tradition further says that he transported from 
 Mount Gotai in China the earth on which he built the first Japanese 
 church of the Tendai sect. The new opinions prospered, and the 
 temples on Hiyei-zan, comiirehended under the name Yenriyakuji, 
 increased to a large number, and became remarkable for wealth and 
 magnificence. In the midst of their prosperity, and probably because 
 of it, however, the priests began to take an active part in the feuds 
 that distracted the country. Their temples became from their 
 situation such strong castles that at length they defied the IMikado 
 himself to subdue them. In the war between the emperor Go-Daijo 
 (1319 A.D.) and the rebel Ashikaga, they, however, took the imperial 
 side, and gave refuge to his majesty when Kioto was besieged. Their 
 despotism over the neighbouring provinces at length became so un- 
 bearable that Ota Nobunaga resolved to take summary vengeance upon 
 them, and this he did one dark night, burning the temples to ashes, 
 and killing or taking cai^tive the priests. In the time of the Shogun 
 lyemitsu (1623-49), however, the former splendour of these monas- 
 teries of Hiyei-zan was restored, and the spiritual power of the Tendai 
 sect revived. Notwithstanding an attempt of the Shogun in 1627 to 
 dispossess the priests of Yenriyakuji of their pre-eminence by trans- 
 ferring his favour to the new shrines at Uyeno, Yedo, they continued 
 to flourish until the revolution of 1868, when, with other character- 
 istic features of Old Japan, they fell into the background. 
 
 After describing his ascent 'to the summit of the moun- 
 tain on a brilliant summer morning, Mr. Dixon says that 
 they obtained from it a panoramic view of the sublimes t 
 description. 
 
 “ On the north the whole extent of Lake Biwa, ^ with promontory, 
 creek, and bay,’ lay calmly stretched for 50 miles to a dark mountain 
 barrier. In the foreground its waters were overlooked by hills of the 
 most luxuriant dark green, and its blue sheet was broken at intervals 
 by white sails. To the east of these hills a shoulder of the mountain 
 obscured a small portion of the lake, which, when it again appeared, was 
 much narrower, and margined on the further side by a flat fertile shore, 
 behind which the sand-downs traversed by the Tokaido rolled away 
 to the hills in the horizon. Appearing right below us at the southern 
 extremity of the lake were the thickly clustering houses of Otsu ; a 
 little steamer was entering the harbour. Then to the south followed 
 wrinkled hills, until the plain of Kioto came into view, with the city 
 lying at full length, an oblong mass of brown varied with white in a 
 green setting. The two tributaries of the Kamogawa could be followed 
 until they met at the city’s northern extremity and then united into 
 
CHAP. IX.] KIOTO, THE WESTERN CAPITAL. 229 
 
 one stream, the yellow channel of which formed two well-marked but 
 unequal divisions of the area of houses. Numerous white spots 
 indicated those buildings whose walls were plastered ; one, long and 
 horizontal, being evidently the Shogun’s castle ; and a space of thick 
 wooding near the northern boundary marked what was at one time 
 deemed the most sacred spot in all Japan, the secluded seat of the 
 Son of Heaven. Cloud-shadows were slowly creeping over the plain 
 which grew less and less distinct until it almost merges with the faint 
 surface of the distant sea. To the west, hills beyond hills rolled away 
 to the horizon like an ocean of billows. The summit of Hiyei-zan is 
 marked with a little granite dome of from three to four feet high, and 
 containing a stone image. The ascent from the point where we left our 
 jinrihi-slia took us about two hours, and the descent rather more than 
 one hour. The height of the summit above the plain is 2700 feet, 
 and, the latter being 300 feet above the sea-level, the total height of 
 the mountain is 3000 feet.” 
 
 Mr. Dixon concludes : “ These notes may fitly close with 
 this panorama of the romantic region in which for so many 
 centuries lay secluded from the world this venerable city of 
 Japan, destined, let us hope, to be encircled in the- minds of 
 men with an even brighter halo than that which, in the days 
 of the nation’s childhood, the presence of the Son of Heaven 
 threw around her. May the pearl become still worthier of 
 its setting, for fair as any dream of elfinland are these sunny 
 hills and shadowy glades.” With this generous outburst of 
 pretty but unsteady eloquence, I, too, will conclude my notes 
 on Kioto. And yet, why should I not add that on Monday 
 the 3rd of March I found myself so unwell, with chills and 
 feverish symptoms alternating, that I resolved to remain 
 indoors, and this I did the more readily as we had to com- 
 mence on the following day our long journey of twelve to 
 fifteen days in jinrihi-shas through the interior of the 
 country by the high road of the Tokaido, over which for 
 so long a period the Daimios of the west and south had 
 to wend their way every three years to Yedo (now Tokio), 
 the capital of the Tycoons. Our friendly English-speaking 
 priest, Akamatsu, of the Nishi-Honganji temple, came early 
 to our residence, to present me with some poetic writing 
 which he had been good enough to prepare at my request, 
 and to again express the compliments and good wishes of 
 
230 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 the archbishop and his brother. Soon afterwards our recent 
 host, the brother of the archbishop of the Eastern Church, 
 did us the honour of calling and taking his leave, at the 
 same time presenting me with a fine example of his writing 
 on silk, together with a valuable tea-service of Kioto porce- 
 lain, the work of one of the best makers in the city. Thus I 
 came into possession of friendly mementoes of my visit from 
 the heads of both branches of the great Shinshu body. I 
 also received a visit from a priest of the great temple of 
 Chionin, which we had visited on the day of our arrival in 
 Kioto, and accepted from him a volume setting forth the 
 origin of the temple in the life of its founder. Numerous 
 other memorials of our visit were sent in throughout the 
 day from friendly persons, including photographs, silks, 
 sahe cups, etc. I contrived to spend several hours in 
 writing, hut was driven by illness early to bed. 
 
 TOWER OF NAGOYA CASTLE. 
 
( 231 ) 
 
 CHAPTEE X. 
 
 THE SACRED SHRINES OF ISE. 
 
 Start from Kioto— Otsu — Lake Biwa — The famous temples of Ishiyama- 
 dera — Their legendary origin — An ancient authoress — The extraordi- 
 nary mountain pass of Sudsuga — Jinrihi-sha men — Pilgrims to Ise — 
 The road to the shrines — Legend of a pine-tree — Matsuzaka, the birth- 
 place of Motoori — His writings — A wet evening — Visit to a girls’ school 
 — More pilgrims — The Geku shrine — The goddess worshipped there — 
 Offence of the god Susanoo— Origin of the imperial regalia of Japan — 
 The Naiku or inner shrine of the sun-goddess — The sacred mirror — 
 The pilgrims at the end of their pilgrimage — A ceremonial temple 
 dance performed by virgin priestesses — Shinto worship at its most 
 sacred shrine — Solemn woods — The ancient faith — “ A study in blue 
 and gold ” — The “ Temple of Immortal Splendour ” — The return — 
 Picturesque scenes — Still pilgrims — Their costumes and equipments — 
 The simplicity and purity of Shinto worship. 
 
 Eising by six o’clock on the 4th of March, in spite of 
 continued illness, our arrangements for starting were 
 speedily completed, and soon after seven we commenced 
 our lengthened journey to Tokio, intending to make the 
 divergences necessary for visiting the temple of Ishiyama- 
 dera, and for then proceeding to the ancient and sacred 
 shrines of Ise."^ The governor of Kioto was good enough, 
 with some members of his staff, to escort us as far as Otsu, 
 
 * “ The temples of Ise, called by 
 the Japanese ‘ Kio-dai-jin-gu, or 
 literally the ‘ Two Great Divine 
 Palaces,’ are situated in the depart- 
 ment of Watarai, at a short distance 
 from each other. They rank first 
 among all the Shinto temples in 
 Japan in point of sanctity, though 
 not the most ancient, and have in the 
 
 eyes of the Japanese the same im- 
 portance as the holy places of Pales- 
 tine in the eyes of Greeks and 
 Armenians, or Mecca in those of the 
 Mahometans. Thousands of pilgrims 
 resort thither annually, chiefly dur- 
 ing the spring months, when the 
 weather is most suited to travelling.” 
 — Mr. Ernest Satoiv. 
 
232 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. X. 
 
 on Lake Biwa, so that, with a further escort of two police 
 officers in front and two behind, our train of jinriki-shas 
 was fully as long as usual. It was a dull hut dry morning 
 when we left, and soon reaching the Sanjo bridge we fairly 
 started upon the Tokaido, which takes its uphill way through 
 the eastern suburb of the city, and becomes a very fine 
 broad macadamised road, winding still upwards between 
 lovely wooded hills, as soon as the city is left behind. 
 After a mile of road, at the highest level, the Tokaido dips 
 down into a large open valley, from all sides of which the 
 clouds, which had been gathering there through the night, 
 were now rising like curtains of silken mists towards the 
 mountain-tops. The levels were studiously cultivated, the 
 hillsides liberally wooded, the road thronged with traffic, 
 and the sun was doing its best to shine on everything, 
 although under somewhat disadvantageous circumstances. 
 
 At a few minutes past eight we came upon the railway 
 works, which are in course of construction from Kioto to 
 Otsu, and which are afterwards to be carried by the lake-side 
 on to Tsuruga. This will open a direct railway route from 
 Tsuruga to Kioto and Osaka, so that the sea-borne products 
 of the northern part of Japan and of the great colony 
 of Yezo may find ready access to those great cities, and 
 by Osaka and Kobe to the capital, Tokio, instead of having, 
 as now, to make the long round by the straits of Shimonoseki. 
 For many classes of produce this will be a very great improve- 
 ment. Before half past eight the beautiful lake of Biwa 
 opened before us as we descended towards the large .town of 
 Otsu, situated at its southern extremity. Otsu is a town 
 of about forty thousand inhabitants, and has the appearance 
 of great prosperity. It contains several houses of European 
 aspect, several large schools, and an abundance of Shinto 
 temples.* The mayor of the district we were entering was 
 good enough to join us here, and provide us with tea and 
 cake at a lake-side house as pretty as any at Zurich, in 
 
 * In passing through the main Shinto temples, although there pro- 
 street of Otsu I ohserved none but bably are others in the town. 
 
CHAP. X.] 
 
 TEE SACRED SHRINES OF ISE. 
 
 233 
 
 so far as scenery is concerned. Indeed the view down the 
 lake is even finer than at Zurich, the hills on the right 
 being more detached, hold, and picturesque. This is one of 
 eight places from which the lake is supposed -to he viewed 
 with great advantage, and we were now about to proceed to 
 another, still more celebrated. I may first mention, however, 
 that Lake Biwa is by far the largest in Japan. It is 50 
 miles long, and its breadth at its greatest is 20 miles. It 
 is therefore longer than, and more than twice the breadth 
 of, the Lake of Geneva. It is narrowest at the southern 
 end, which alone we saw, and contracts to a breadth of only 
 about a mile at Katata, which is 10 miles off ; hut beyond 
 that, north-eastwards, it rapidly broadens and becomes a 
 splendid sheet of water. 
 
 The second of the points 'of view before-mentioned is 
 Ishiyama-dera, the site of famous Buddhist temples, whither 
 our friends from Kioto decided on accompanying us. The 
 distance thither was not great, hut we had to diverge from 
 the Tokaido in order to reach the spot, and well were we 
 repaid for doing so. Ishiyama-dera is one of the loveliest 
 spots in Japan, or probably in any country. After ascending 
 a long flight of steps one comes upon a natural platform, out 
 of which stand up masses of sheer and apparently toppling 
 black rocks, around and above which, on other rocky ledges and 
 picturesque sites, is a crowd of temples, shrines, and pagodas, 
 with trees springing everywhere from among them, and 
 steps and terraces scattered about to facilitate the movements 
 of visitors. The place is celebrated, as one can well believe, 
 for its beauty by moonlight, offering on the one hand this 
 picturesque massing of natural and temple scenery, and on 
 the other a magnificent view of the lake with the Tokaido 
 bridge crossing one of its branches. The temple is eleven 
 hundred and fifty years old, having been built in the reign 
 of Shomu-Tenno (724-48 a.d.), and parts of the original 
 buildings, including a room into which we went, dated from 
 its foundation. Ishiyama is particularly fortunate in its 
 idol, for it has a Kwannon that — according to a paper lying at 
 the door — is exceedingly generous in granting to people 
 
234 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. X. 
 
 what they pray for. There is a curious legendary story 
 connected with the founding of this temple, which I cannot 
 profess to give with strict accuracy, hut it runs somewhat 
 in this wise. The Mikado, desiring to build a great image 
 more than 60 feet high, with probably a temple to hold 
 it, felt the need of money, and sent Sojio, a priest, to 
 worship one of the Gongen gods, and inquire where gold 
 could he found. Sojio did so, but was informed by Gongen 
 that he would do better to worship and inquire of Kwannon. 
 Sojio went to Lake Biwa, and consulted an old boatman 
 whom he found fishing on the lake as to a suitable place for 
 worship, and was informed that there was on the hill (where 
 the temple now stands) a lotus-shaped rock very suitable for 
 the purpose, the old fisherman disappearing after giving the 
 information — thus proving himself to be a god. Sojio went 
 to Kioto and obtained from the son of the great Shotoku- 
 taishi a gold image of Kwannon 6 inches long, and conveyed 
 it to the spot pointed out near the lake, there worshipping 
 it, and inquiring where gold could he got. Gold was very 
 soon after discovered in considerable quantities in the north of 
 Japan, hut unfortunately Sojio found that the gold Kwannon 
 could not by any possible means be removed from the lotus- 
 shaped rock, and therefore recommended the construction of 
 a temple over the image."^ The Mikado approved, the temple 
 was built, and there it stands to the present hour ; and 
 although the Kwannon has but two hands in this case, it is, 
 as I have said, liberal in the highest degree. The Mikado, 
 in gratitude for the gold discovery, resolved to build a great 
 temple in Kioto, and that, I was informed at Ishiyama-dera, 
 is how the great Toji temple, already described, came to he 
 built. While digging its foundations a precious hall was 
 discovered, and Sojio made an image 20 feet high to contain 
 
 * A similar incident is recorded as tank, but to the dismay of all con- 
 
 the origin of the celebrated and cerned the idol stoutly declined to 
 
 splendid Vishnu Pagoda, near Tri- be lifted again. A shrine had there- 
 
 chinopoly, in India. A golden image fore to be built over it, and the shrine 
 
 of Vishnu was laid upon the ground has grown into a temple, Jfnd the 
 
 by its bearer, Visbhishana, while temple into a sort of sacred city, 
 
 its custodian bathed in the sacred 
 
CHAP. X.] 
 
 THE SACRED SHRINES OF ISE. 
 
 235 
 
 it, and placed it with two others 8 feet high at the side 
 of it. This is how the story was told to me, as a rough 
 translation of a printed paper which, with a portrait of the 
 goddess, was presented to us ; and although I cannot quite 
 make the dates and the Mikados of Toji and Ishiyama run 
 together, I have no doubt that all the substantial truth of 
 the matter is sufficiently embodied in the above version. 
 The ancient apartment already adverted to is celebrated as 
 the chamber in which a well-known Japanese work was 
 partly composed by a well-known Japanese authoress. I 
 am afraid that neither the lady nor the hook is as celebrated 
 in England as in Japan, but as I should he sorry to deprive 
 any large number of my readers of the pleasure of identifying 
 a literary celebrity whom they mmj happen to know of, and 
 as I should be proud to extend her present fame among my 
 countrymen, I will mention that the title of this work is 
 ‘ Genji-monogatari,’ and that the name of the authoress is 
 Murasaki-shikibu."^ This distinguished writer prayed to the 
 goddess Kwannon to aid her in the composition of her work, 
 and spent seven nights in the chamber spoken of in pursuance 
 of her task, and we must all be delighted to know that both 
 her piety and her industry have been rewarded in the wide- 
 spread renown of her work. 
 
 But the time for lingering on this mount of mystery and 
 beauty is past, and we therefore descend to the level of the 
 common earth again, leaving the rocks and the temples and 
 the shrine of the goddess to another thousand years of 
 beauty and celebrity. Before we re-enter our jinriki-shas, 
 our Kioto friends take leave of us, and we attempt in vain 
 to put in words our thanks for the kindness they have 
 shown to us — more especially the governor, to whose active 
 and personal exertions we owe so many advantageous oppor- 
 tunities of seeing the ancient city of Kioto. We also took 
 leave with thanks of the mayor in whose district we now 
 were, and whose arrangements for our passage through it 
 were excellent and generous. After regaining the Tokaido 
 
 * See ante, pp. 33 and G8. 
 
236 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. X. 
 
 and crossing the bridge, our course again lay through a 
 very pretty hilly country, picturesquely wooded, and culti- 
 vated in the manner so frequently mentioned. The only 
 remarkable feature of the road was its frequent passage 
 across river-beds raised high above the surrounding country, 
 and carrying the mountain torrents down to the lake. 
 After lunching at the village of Ishibe, where some of the 
 officers and servants of our party had already caused every- 
 thing to be prepared, we pressed on through gloom and 
 mist that thickened into rain, and preserved that form until 
 we stopped for the evening and. night at the village of 
 Tsuchiyama, where in a native inn we found comfortable 
 quarters prepared for us, and ate a dinner that would have 
 satisfied every one but a gourmet. The only incident of the 
 road, save the numberless small incidents of a passage 
 through staring and amused villages, was the discovery on 
 the top of a column by the roadside of the deaf, mute, and 
 blind monkeys whose acquaintance on a smaller scale we 
 had made a few days previously in the lumber chamber of 
 the gods at the temple of Toji. 
 
 It was in heavy rain that we started next morning 
 (Wednesday the 5th of March) to cross the Sudsuga moun- 
 tain-pass in pursuance of our journey to Ise. The much too 
 careful servants of the house began to stir about in my 
 room at four o’clock, after which I slept no more, and before 
 seven we were moving away in our jinrilci-slias, the number 
 of which had somehow increased to about eighteen. The 
 rain had caused our jinrihi men to don their wet weather 
 apparel, which consisted of either sheets of oil-paper, sup- 
 posed to be waterproof, or strips of matting round loins and 
 shoulders, with straw hats of shapes and sizes so various 
 that no two were probably even approximately alike : some 
 were perfectly flat, others pyramidal, others parts of spheres, 
 frustrums of pyramids, and bits of ellipsoids, while others 
 were formed to nameless curved 'surfaces, or at least to 
 surfaces which my geometry is insufficient to define with 
 accuracy ; some were black and some were of the natural 
 colour of the straw, some were large and some were small. 
 
CHAP. X.] 
 
 THE SAGRED SHRINES OF ISE. 
 
 237 
 
 most of them were worn till we changed our men, hut others 
 were slung up on the back of the jinriki-shas after the 
 wearer had become impatient of them, and others were 
 pitched to friends by the way as we passed through the 
 villages on our line of procession. As to the oil-papers and 
 the straw mats, they got gradually dispensed with one after 
 another long before the rain left off ; and whenever there was 
 a lull in the boisterous beauty of the scenery through which 
 we passed, one could amuse himself with observing the 
 competition between the soiling power of mud and the 
 cleansing quality of rain upon the naked forms of men from 
 the waist downward, as they toiled up hill and down for 
 hours together in a manner which it is very hard to recon- 
 cile oneself to. Man is such a wonderful being even at his 
 worst, and out of the common crowd of men such marvellous 
 individuals come forth — ay, and what is to me far more im- 
 pressive still, one sees even in the lowest classes of men, who 
 are put to do mere brute work, such a play of industry, 
 loyalty to duty, humour, intelligence, alertness, steadiness, 
 devotion, and many other virtues, that for my part I never 
 treat even the meanest of them with any asperity without 
 fearing lest I might have hurt the susceptibilities of some 
 mute inglorious being, or caused a better intellect than my 
 own to feel in some dumb way that — • 
 
 “Man, proud man, 
 
 Drest in a little brief authority. 
 
 Plays such fantastic tricks before high heaven 
 As make the angels weep.” 
 
 One is made to feel the force of this continually in these 
 Eastern lands, and nowhere more, I fear, than where we 
 Europeans lord it over the other races. I was never quite 
 happy at Hong Kong when carried (as I admit you must at 
 present be there) upon the shoulders of the Chinese chair- 
 men ; I am never quite happy here, among these poor 
 jinriki-sha men, dragging their fellow-men about in carriages 
 in all weathers, under all circumstances, often with attenuated 
 muscles and wasting lungs and breaking heartstrings. 
 
 After leaving Tsuchiyama we soon found ourselves among 
 
238 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. X. 
 
 the pilgrims: there is no mistaking them in any country 
 where I have ever seen them, and this day they were 
 numerous, for were we not journeying towards those most 
 sacred, most universally reverenced, of all the shrines of 
 Japan! In every house in Japan it is, or was, the custom 
 to have some simple card or memorial of the gods wor- 
 shipped at Ise, and here, on this occasion, were men, women, 
 and young people from all parts of the country, with every 
 kind of Japanese face, and every variety of Japanese costume, 
 wending their wet and often weary way to and from these 
 sacred spots. 
 
 After a long climb up what may fairly be called the 
 mountain-sides of Sudsuga to the village of that name, vre 
 stopped a few minutes to change carriages, and then made 
 the swift descent to Seki, at which place we were still on 
 the Tokaido. This descent at Sudsuga is a most remarkable 
 one, the main road being brought down the exceedingly steep 
 side of the mountain by a series of greatly inclined slopes, 
 alternating in opposite directions, the steeper portion being 
 succeeded by a mile or two of ordinary road of unusually 
 large gradient. The town at the foot of the descent is 
 named Seki, and as that is the equivalent of “ gate,” and 
 there was formerly a gate on this side of the steep descent 
 just mentioned, I presume this was the site of the Sudsuga 
 gate of the Tokaido. The scenery through all this part of 
 the journey was not inferior to that between Coire and the 
 Engadine, except in the absence of such very elevated moun- 
 tains, none of this range of Japanese hills rising, so far as 
 we could see, to what are known as Alpine heights. The 
 beauty of the country could not, however, be easily ex- 
 aggerated ; lofty wooded hills of diversified shapes, rushing 
 rivers, and endless changes of aspect all combining to please 
 and interest the eye. We saw most of the scene under very 
 unfavourable conditions, viz. in a heavy driving rain, but 
 he must be but a poor traveller and a weak imaginer who 
 cannot mentally sweep the rain-clouds from such a land- 
 scape, fill the valleys with sunshine, and dash the necessary 
 sparkling lights on trees and streams. Besides, a landscape 
 
CHAP. X.] 
 
 THE SACRED SHRINES OF ISE. 
 
 239 
 
 seen in rain, and especially a mountain-landscape so seen, 
 has many and peculiar beauties of which the mere sun- 
 worshipper knows nothing; and just as Emerson has felt 
 exhilarated, as he somewhere tells us, in crossing a common 
 through snow puddles, so may we feel and delight in the 
 sombre beauty of rain-swept vales and hills, provided only 
 we are in sympathy with it. Early in the afternoon the 
 weather cleared, as we left behind us the mountain ranges, 
 and ere long the mirrored light of Owari Bay was seen in 
 the distance, and passing through the large town of Tsu, and 
 some of the most squalid and dirty villages that we have 
 seen in Japan, we came at length about three o’clock into 
 the town of Matsuzaka, and found charming apartments 
 prepared for us within the gates of the Jodo (Buddhist) 
 temple Jikiyoji. Having lunched at Kobuta about noon, we 
 had time to spare, and strolled through the town, to the 
 great interest and amusement, apparently, of the inhabitants, 
 and of none more than of the very young children, who in 
 Japan seem at extremely early ages to employ their little 
 bright black eyes in scrutinies worthy of more experienced 
 persons. Indeed, one wonders at what ages these little 
 intelligences begin to be observant, for on one occasion — 
 indeed, on the day now under review — I looked to see what 
 was in a little bundle that a young woman was holding, and 
 found in it a miniature man, who looked steadily at me as 
 if surprised at my impertinence. I was informed that this 
 observant young person was ten days old. 
 
 In the course of the journey to Matsuzaka we stopped at 
 a wayside shrine which has attached to it a religious legend 
 that has points of interest in it. Eoughly speaking, it is 
 this. Nearly eleven hundred years ago a gentleman called 
 Ononotakamura was banished for some disobedience to the 
 Mikado, and his wife, who was sorry for him, wished to go 
 into exile with him. This, however, was denied her, and 
 she consequently stole out of Kioto to the foot of Mount 
 Hi-yei, where she lived for a time, and then started with a 
 blind man by night for the sacred shrines of Ise. Being 
 unaccustomed to travelling, she got very weary on the way, 
 
240 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. X. 
 
 and on reaching the spot where stands the shrine she 
 inquired of a farming man the distance to the Ise temples. 
 For the fim of the thing he told her that they were twenty 
 days’ journey, which was a great exaggeration, and this so 
 discouraged the poor lady that she resorted to a device 
 which shows that a lady could he as ingenious eleven 
 hundred years ago as now. She decided on giving up the 
 remainder of the journey, and praying to the gods from the 
 spot where she then stood, either ignoring the remaining 
 distance, or asking to have it treated for all practical pur- 
 poses as non-existent. So, hanging some coins upon a 
 young pine-tree hard by, she prayed, and submitted to the 
 god her desires and solicitations. The god must have heard 
 and attended to her, for hy-and-hy the farming man, on 
 attempting to carry off the money that she had hung on the 
 pine-tree, was frightened to see it turn into a fire-spitting 
 two-headed serpent, which he dare not approach. He then 
 inquired more particularly about the lady, and, repenting of 
 his misleading reply to her question, himself “personally 
 conducted” her and her blind friend to the shrines. The 
 pine-tree was designated the “ Hang-the-money-up ” tree, a 
 shrine was built on the spot, and whoever, being ill of any 
 complaint whatever thereafter, ate a little piece of the tree, 
 was pretty sure to get well forthwith. There is a very old- 
 looking piece of a tree within the shrine, with some money 
 hanging on it, hut I am hound to give the Japanese credit 
 for a very strict regard to truth in these matters. They 
 never overdo, or much overdo, a miraculous affair of this 
 sort. Had this occurred in Europe, in any of those churches 
 and monasteries where I have listened to similar accounts, 
 my informants would, I doubt not, have kept the original 
 pine-tree in existence until now, and claimed identity with 
 it for the withered limb or fragment displayed, and the 
 coins likewise would have been the very coins brought by 
 Madame Ononotakamura from Mount Hi-yei. But here, on 
 the contrary, we were distinctly informed that the pine-tree 
 in question died about four hundred years ago — and there- 
 fore lived less than seven hundred years ! — and that it had 
 
CHAP. X.] 
 
 THE SAC BED SHRINES OE JSE. 
 
 241 
 
 been necessary to plant a successor in order to keep its 
 memory green. I must acknowledge, however, that any 
 one, Japanese or other, would naturally hesitate to propound 
 even an exaggeration on a spot where a two-headed serpent 
 had been known to spit fires in defence of the true and the 
 right. 
 
 This town of Matsuzaka, where now we were, was the 
 birthplace, in 1730, of a very eminent scholar and critic, 
 named Motoori Norinaga, whom I have had occasion to 
 quote in the first volume (chap, iii.), and who, from his child- 
 hood, was remarkable for his love of learning. His father 
 died when he was but ten years old, and his mother was left 
 poor, so that he had to struggle with adverse circumstances 
 in commencing his career. He was somehow sent to the 
 capital, Kioto, to study language and medicine, and there 
 deepened his interest in the pursuit of learning. He, how- 
 ever, returned to Matsuzaka, and commenced practice for the 
 treatment of children. Another great scholar, Mabuchi, pub- 
 lished about that time a now famous work, of which Motoori 
 obtained the loan ; and he afterwards was fortunate enough to 
 meet Mabuchi himself. At this interview — it appears from 
 Mr. Satow’s writings — Motoori spoke of his own desire 
 to write a commentary on the Kojihi, the most ancient 
 historical record (date 711) of Japan, and Mabuchi replied 
 that he also had wished to explain the sacred writings, 
 but in order to do this it was first necessary to get rid 
 of the effects of the Chinese philosophy, and discover the 
 genuine beliefs of antiquity. He advised Motoori to direct 
 his studies accordingly, which he did with such success 
 that in 1764 he commenced his great work, the Kojihi 
 den, which is an edition of the Kojihi with an elaborate 
 commentary. It took him till 1786 to complete the first 
 volume of the ancient book, but its success was immediate, 
 and one of his biographers states that his fame drew to 
 him nearly five hundred students from all parts of the 
 country — poor fellow ! The second part was finished in 
 1792. He had a flourishing career, Daimios and princes 
 competing for^ the privilege of pensioning him. In 1801 
 
 VOL. II. R 
 
242 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. X. 
 
 he visited Kioto, where he lectured to crowds of admirers, 
 including princes of the blood and court nobles; hut the 
 old King of Terrors ordered him hack in the autumn of 
 that year, and he has since reposed in a tomb previously 
 prepared to his own order, in the monastery of Miorakuji, 
 near this place, Matsuzaka. 
 
 Our evening at Matsuzaka, being a very wet one, was spent 
 indoors, and by degrees I was successful in bringing the con- 
 versation to hear upon the recent rebellion of General Saigo 
 and his Satsuma men, in repressing which Admiral Kawamura 
 took, as we know, a leading part, hut concerning which he is 
 usually silent. On this occasion his Excellency was good 
 enough to favour me with a general account of the nature and 
 circumstances of that lamentable rebellion, hut I was after- 
 wards told by an officer present at the operations which 
 resulted in the overthrow of Saigo that I should have to 
 learn from some other source how energetically and bravely 
 the admiral himself performed his duty. This I was for- 
 tunate enough afterwards to do. 
 
 The following morning dawned with such a storm of 
 rain and wind that it was decided to start later in the 
 day than had been contemplated, and breakfast was deferred 
 till nine o’clock, and our departure till after ten. By an 
 oversight the jinriki-slias were later in coming, and the 
 interval was spent in strolling through the town. Within 
 the temple gates, however, was a building appropriated as a 
 school for giving instruction in needle-work to girls, and a 
 couple of dozen or so of the pretty little learners were at 
 the gate indulging with many others their curiosity by 
 viewing “ the Chinese ” ; for the sight of a foreigner is so 
 extremely rare in these parts of Japan that all foreigners 
 pass with the inhabitants as people of the nearest foreign 
 country, viz. China. We thought it unfair to those inhabit- 
 ants to appear indifferent to the interests of Japanese girls, 
 and accordingly turned towards the school to ask a few 
 questions respecting it. But the beauties began “ to back ” 
 at our approach, and retreated to the door, and, finding us 
 still advancing, cast off their clogs, or pattens, or shoes. 
 
CHAP. X.] 
 
 THE SACRED SERINES OF ISE. 
 
 243 
 
 or whatever they may best he called, and spread through 
 the house giggling and screaming with something that could 
 not have been fear, and probably was not delight, so may 
 perhaps have been amusement. We followed them in, and 
 gently hunted them till we got them together, and then 
 spent a few minutes in learning particulars of the school, 
 which particulars I entirely forget. We soon separated from 
 them for ever, aa we have had to do from so many hundreds, 
 ay thousands, of others, having at least shown them that 
 “ the Chinese ” are not insensible to the attractions of their 
 neighbours. 
 
 At the end of our stroll through the village, we stopped 
 at the last tea-house to wait for our jinrihi-shas, and there 
 sat enjoying the surrounding light and warmth of the sun 
 — for the day had become clear and fine — sipping tea and 
 smoking cigarettes in the shade of a large Wistaria- tree, 
 trained to serve as a roof to a bower, and in view of a very 
 pretty garden, intended to attract the pilgrims, doubtless, 
 on their way hack from the sacred shrines. At length the 
 jinrild-shas draw up ; in we get, off we go, for eight or nine 
 miles through sun that is hot and wind that is cold, and an 
 atmosphere that is fresh and pure from the long rain- 
 cleansings of the evening, night, and morning. The pilgrims 
 thicken as we go, most of them walking or toddling, some 
 of them riding packed in carts and little vans made gay 
 with colours on the outside even brighter than the cheeks 
 of the many plump and red-faced country-girls inside. The 
 pilgrims are obviously mostly peasants, and, there being but 
 little work for peasants at this season, they judiciously make 
 their religious pilgrimages now. The fact of its being their 
 season for the shrines, so to speak, is perhaps a reason for 
 superior people choosing seasons at other periods. There 
 was a good deal of shopping being done by these peasant- 
 pilgrims, more especially by those returning, the trade done 
 chiefly being in tobacco-pouches and straw hats — hats like 
 those of the jinrihi men mentioned not long ago. These 
 broad hats, of all sorts and shapes, are such very odd adorn- 
 ments —notwithstanding their manifestly great utility as 
 
 K 2 
 
244 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. X. 
 
 screens from the sun in hot weather — that it was curious 
 to see people examining them and comparing them one with 
 another, and weighing in the delicate scales of their taste 
 their respective merits and beauties. But there they were, 
 holding them this way and that way, and viewing them with 
 nice discrimination, and after fixing upon and purchasing 
 one (I suppose for a very few coppers) carefully slinging it 
 in front, or behind, as Highlanders carry their shoes, to take 
 care of them, and then marching away complacently upon 
 their resumed journey homewards — home being in some cases, 
 probably, hundreds of miles away, beyond the mountains and 
 seas. After crossing the rapid river Mij^agawa in boats, with 
 crowds of villagers gathered picturesquely on botli banks of 
 the river, and lining the streets of all the villages, to see the 
 foreigners and the party generally, and after a further short 
 drive, we alighted in Yamada, at the gate, or rather the torii, 
 of the outer of the ancient shrines of Ise, known as the 
 Geku, or Outer Palace. 
 
 Dating from many centuries before the introduction of 
 Buddhism into J apan, these are, of course, Shinto shrines, and 
 at the entrance we were met by two Shinto priests who had 
 been deputed to show us the sacred place. Passing under 
 the torii we were at once amidst trees of an age and magni- 
 tude not often to be equalled. This is such a country of 
 extremely tall, large, and ancient trees that no particular 
 notice is taken of even very striking examples, but I was 
 glad to observe that throughout these splendid temple-parks 
 of Yamada and Uji, in which are the most sacred religious 
 shrines of Japan, the finer and older trees were carefully 
 fenced in. Within the temple limits we came first to a 
 small edifice in which w^as the wdiite horse of the deity of the 
 place, which happened to be an artificial horse, the real one 
 having recently died, and another not being forthcoming at 
 present, for a reason Avhich I did not learn. Soon after- 
 wards we came to two living black horses consecrated to the 
 services of the temple, and more particularly for the god of 
 the place, Toyouke-hime-no-kami — ‘‘ the god of food, clothes, 
 and house-living,” as one authority explained it to me, or 
 
CHAP. X.] 
 
 THE SACRED SHRINES OF ISE. 
 
 245 
 
 “the god of the earth’s produce,” as another put it — to ride 
 upon in the processions of the great temple ceremonials. As 
 I could not get on the spot any clear and unvarying account 
 of the gods worshipped at these Ise temples, I afterwards 
 sought for additional information, hut owing to the fact of 
 their belonging to the mythologic period I could find nothing 
 that was altogether satisfactory, especially as regards the 
 sex of the deity of the Geku. The clearest account that I 
 could get was that given in a translation by Mr. Satow of 
 extracts from a compilation of myths from the most reliable 
 sources by a native writer, Hirata Atsutane, observing that 
 I propose to abridge the narrative for the convenience of this 
 work, and to put it into my own language, so far as I may 
 find desirable. 
 
 The history of the case runs thus : Amaterasu, the sun- 
 goddess, sent Susanoo to search for a goddess named Uke- 
 mochi-no-kami in the central country of luxuriant reedy 
 moors (Japan), and the messenger found Ukemochi, and soli- 
 cited food from her. This request was responded to by 
 Ukemochi, who produced food from her mouth and nose, and 
 otherwise unpleasantly, thus angering the god Susanoo, 
 who exclaimed, “Foul indeed, despicable indeed! Why 
 feed me with foul things ? ” and, drawing his sword, 
 struck Ukemochi-no-kami dead. On Susanoo reporting 
 the matter in detail to Amaterasu, she was very angry, 
 called Susanoo a wicked god, and remained secluded from 
 him a day and a night. Amaterasu afterwards sent 
 Amekuma-no-ushi to see if Ukemochi was really dead, 
 and the messenger found growing on the body of the goddess, 
 in various parts, a silkworm, a mulberry-tree, rice-seeds. 
 
 * lu Mr. Griffis’s version of this 
 legend, Susaiiod (or, as he spells the 
 name, Sosanoo) is the moon-goddess, 
 and the punishment she received 
 from the sun-goddess was, that she 
 was degraded from their joint rule, 
 and condemned to appear only at 
 night, wliile the sun-goddess slept. 
 But accordiug to Uirata, the moon 
 
 appears to be a masculine deity, for 
 in quoting from his ‘ Koshi-Seibun ’ 
 Mr. Satow says that while the sun- 
 goddess was produced from the left 
 eye of Izanagi-no-mikoto, from his 
 right eye was produced Tsukiyomi- 
 no-mikoto, also called Takehaya- 
 Snsanoo-no-mikoto ; and adds, “ this 
 is the moon, a masculine deity.” 
 
246 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. X. 
 
 barley, and a large and small bean, the bead being changed 
 into a cow and a horse. On receiving these things, Amaterasu 
 rejoiced, saying, “ These things are things which the bean- 
 tifiil green-human-herb eating may live,” and she constituted 
 barley, bean-seeds, etc., of the dry fields, and rice-seeds of 
 the watery fields. Also she appointed lords of the villages 
 of heaven, and for the first time made them plant rice-seeds 
 in the narrow fields and the long fields of heaven, so that in 
 the autumn the drooping ears were abundantly luxuriant, 
 and ripened well. Also she planted the mulherry-trees on 
 the fragrant hills of heaven, and reared silkworms, and, 
 chewing the cocoons in her mouth, spun thread — the arts 
 of silkworm-rearing and weaving then commencing. As 
 Ukemochi-no-kami is identical with Toyouke-hime-no-kami, 
 the foregoing legend explains how it has happened that the 
 principal deity of the Geku came to he regarded as the 
 giver of abundant food, etc.* 
 
 There are secondary deities worshipped there, the chief of 
 whom is the adopted grandson of the sun-goddess and the 
 great-grandfather of the first Mikado, Jimmu-Tenno, who 
 commenced his reign in the Japanese year 1. According to the 
 legend, says Mr. Satow, the goddess wished to send her adopted 
 son, Oshi-ho-mimi-no-mikoto, down upon earth to subdue it, 
 but he put forth his own son instead as leader of the expedition. 
 The goddess then presented Ninigi-no-mikoto with various 
 treasures, amongst which — and here we touch upon the 
 central sacredness alike of the race of Mikados and of the 
 symbols of the Shinto faith — the most important were the 
 mirror, sword, and stone or hall (afterwards the regalia of 
 the Japanese sovereigns), and attached to his person the 
 other two inferior gods of Geku. With reference to the 
 mirror, she said, “ Look upon this mirror as my spirit, keep 
 
 * “ The principal deity worshipped signifies ‘ abundant - foo 1 - goddess.’ 
 at the Geku is Toyouke-hiinc-no- Z7/ie»ioc/<t-no-kaini signifies the ‘ food- 
 kami, called Ukemochi-no-kami in preserving-god.’ . . . Ogetsu-hime-no- 
 the Nihongi, and Ogetsuhime in the kaini means ‘goddess of food.’” — 
 Kojiki. Toyo means abundant ; uke, Satow. 
 footl ; hime, lady ; and the whole 
 
CHAP. X.] 
 
 THE SACRED SHRINES OF ISE. 
 
 247 
 
 it in the same house ancl on the same floor with yourself, 
 and worship it as if you were worshipping my actual 
 presence.” 
 
 To resume our narrative : Passing under another torii (of 
 
 plain unpainted timber, like all the torii of these Ise shrines), 
 we came to the outer gate of the temple proper, to which 
 alone of three successive gates we and the other pilgrims 
 were allowed to approach. With certain extremely rare 
 exceptions, extending only to the Mikado and commissioners 
 of his, none hut priests are allowed to pass this flrst gate. 
 It w^as an open gate, however, with a simple white cloth or 
 curtain hanging across it, blowing about as the wind listed. 
 Through this open gate, or past the sides of it if you pre- 
 ferred to stand there, you could see the next gate, and 
 beyond that again was a third, and then came the temple 
 proper, which could not he seen. This was all ! The build- 
 ings, as far as seen, were all of the plainest possible kind, 
 not unlike substantial well-thatched farm-buildings at home. 
 The mirror at this outer temple was not the original mirror, 
 and the priests did not for a moment leave us to sup- 
 pose that it was. There was, in fact, no pretence of any 
 kind about them ; hut the ancient buildings and the plain 
 white curtain were left to produce that w^hich is perhaps 
 the deepest and most lasting of all impressions made by 
 religious externals, viz. that of combined simplicity and 
 antiquity. Of this outer temple I need only add that it is in 
 every respect a sequel and appendage to the inner and more 
 ancient temple presently to he mentioned, having been built 
 by the desire of the goddess of the older Ise temple, who 
 wished to have the deity Toyouke near her. This, the 
 outer and later temple, dates from the reign of the twenty- 
 second Mikado of the present reigning dynasty, Yuriaku, 
 in the year 479 a.d. Before her removal here at that date 
 this goddess had been located in the village of Ma-na-i-wara, 
 in the province of Tamha. 
 
 On completing our visit to this outer temple, the Geku, 
 in Yamada-wara, we proceeded on through that village to a 
 private house which had been placed at our service, situated 
 
248 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. X. 
 
 on the highest ground of the adjacent village of Fruichi, 
 and with extensive views across rice-fields and gardens to 
 the mountains beyond. Here we took luncheon, and soon 
 afterwards started for the inner temple, Naiku.^ Here is 
 kept the original sacred mirror, which is the most precious 
 emblem of the Shinto faith, and is likewise, with the sacred 
 sword and hall, the authenticating memorial of the imperial 
 dynasty, regarded as all Japan regarded it for two thousand 
 five hundred years, down to 1868, and as most of the people 
 regard it still. This temple came to he built in the follow- 
 ing manner. The sacred emblems of the national religion 
 had, up to the time of the great Mikado Sujin, been kept in 
 the imperial palace or temple ; hut he, as some say to in- 
 crease their safety, and as others allege because he viewed a 
 rebellion which broke out as a mark of divine disapprobation 
 of their remaining in his custody, gave them into the charge 
 of his daughter, in a temple dedicated to them. They were 
 subsequently removed and carried from place to place, hut 
 at length, in the twenty-sixth year of the reign of Suinin- 
 Tenno, and therefore in the year 3 b.o., it was resolved to 
 fix the mirror at the village of Uji, on the river Suzugawa, 
 and there and then the present temple was built. f The old 
 
 * The distance between the two 
 temples must be between two and 
 three miles ; there are liouses nearly 
 the whole way. 
 
 t Mr. Griffis, in ‘ The Mikado’s 
 Empire,’ states that the sacred em- 
 blems, the mirror, ball, and the sword, 
 are in the Uji (Ise) temple ; but this 
 must be a mistake, as I was assured by 
 the priests at Uji (Ise) that only the 
 mirror is in their temple — the ball, they 
 said, is in the Mikado’s palace, and 
 the sword at Atsutu, in Miya, which 
 temple, as will be seen later on, we after- 
 wards visited. In his paper on the 
 ‘ Revival of Pure Shinto,’ Mr. Satow, 
 while silent as to the whereabouts of 
 the sacred ball, correctly states the 
 facts with regard to the mirror and 
 sword, speaking of the sword as 
 
 “ enshrined at Atsutu in Owari,” and 
 of the mirror as “ worshipped at the 
 Naiku in Ise as the representative of 
 the goddess of the sun.” Considering 
 that the Ise temples are the most 
 sacred and apparently the purest 
 Shinto temples in Japan, it is not a 
 little startling — and is an example of 
 the strange difficulties that obstruct 
 the rapid acquisition of clear informa- 
 tion in Japan— to find Mr. Satow him- 
 self, in his paper on these shrines, say- 
 ing: “It has been observed that 
 Shinto temples often contain a mirror 
 placed in a prominent position, and 
 this mirror has been supposed by 
 foreigners to be their distinguishing 
 mark ; but it is only to be found in 
 those which have been under the in- 
 fiuence of Buddhism. It is absent 
 
CHAP. X.] 
 
 THE SACRED SHRINES OF ISE. 
 
 249 
 
 bnilcling does not exist ; on tlie contrary, a new temple is 
 erected every twenty years ; but each new temple is an 
 exact repetition of the original, and therefore the present 
 one is a perfect representation of the architecture of Japan 
 at the time of Christ. The principal deity here worshipped 
 is Amaterasu, the sun-goddess herself, as will have been 
 inferred from what has been said before. Mr. Satow con- 
 siders her as neither more nor less than a deification of the 
 sun. Her chief name (for she has several) signifies literally 
 the “ From-Heaven-Shining-Great-Deity.” The other deities 
 worshipped are Ta-jikara-o-no-kami and Yorozu-hata-toyo- 
 aki-tsu-hime-no-kami, of whom it is unnecessary to say more 
 here. 
 
 On passing from Fruichi to Uji, which lies at the foot of 
 the hills, embosomed in ancient woods, the river Mimosusogawa 
 has to be crossed by a fine bridge, at either end of which is 
 a large torii, indicating the approach to a temple of the 
 Shinto religion. After crossing the bridge into the village 
 of Uji, our jinrihi men, guided by local municipal and 
 police ofiicers, turned to the right, and passing up the main 
 street of Uji, through the interested and interesting in- 
 habitants, and between such ranges of well-to-do shops as 
 indicate that the pilgrims in the aggregate are pretty large 
 purchasers, we passed under another torii, and into the 
 temple precincts. A curving avenue of magnificent trees 
 led us through a park of equally fine ones, past a building 
 in which the priests preach to the people, past another in 
 which reside more of the sacred horses kept for the con- 
 venience of the goddess, past another in which the religious 
 
 from all the pure Shinto temples.” 
 This is perfectly true, because Mr. 
 Satow has been careful to introduce 
 tlie words “ placed in a prominent 
 position,” which the Ise mirror cer- 
 tainly is not, and from such a position 
 it is true that the mirror is absent 
 from the Naiku ; but that a mirror is 
 there, and is an object of worship, Mr. 
 Satow’s own words, (quoted previously. 
 
 properly state. It is, however, con- 
 cealed from view. In pure Shinto 
 temples there are no visible objects of 
 worship, but at the Naiku the repre- 
 sentation of the deity is nevertheless 
 the hidden sacred mirror ; and usually 
 the spirit of the deity is supposed to 
 be enshrined in some concealed object 
 known as the “ August Spirit-Sub- 
 stitute,” or “ God’s-Sectl. ’ 
 
250 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. X. 
 
 dances of the temple are performed, and then was reached a 
 flight of stone steps leading to the first gateway of the sacred 
 place. Here the priests, who had met ns at the entrance to 
 the temple grounds, kindly presented me with plans of the 
 two temples, and a brief written history of them, adding 
 such oral explanations as occurred to them, and answering 
 whatever questions it occurred to us to put. The gateway 
 was open, and hung, like that of the other temple, with a 
 long white curtain, and beyond were seen another torii and 
 other gateways, but nothing could be seen of the temple 
 itself, and as little, of course, of the heaven-wrought mirror 
 within. As we stood, however, the pilgrims continued to 
 come, of both sexes and of all ages, and casting upon the 
 ground a few coins, some wrapped in paper, stooping, clap- 
 ping their hands, and uttering a few words of prayer, thus 
 attained and completed the object for which their journey- 
 ings had been undertaken. I asked if this was all they saw 
 and did, and was told that it was. I inquired if they 
 attended no religious service, saw no dances, heard no music, 
 received no advice ; and found that as a rule they did not. 
 Was no blessing pronounced, no simple memorial of some 
 kind presented to them? Nothing; but they all bought 
 little mementoes of the place at the stall in the grounds or 
 at the shops in the village.* What was it they said during 
 
 * “In every Japanese house there 
 is kept what is called a liami-dana, 
 or ‘ shelf for gods,’ which consists of 
 a miniature Shinto temple in wood, 
 containing paper tickets inscribed 
 with the names of various gods, one 
 of whom is invariably Tensho-ko- 
 daijin, the principal deity of Ise. 
 This ticket, or rather paper box, is 
 called o-harai, and is supposed to 
 contain between two thin boards 
 some pieces of the wand used by the 
 priests at Isc at the two annual festi- 
 vals in the sixth and twelfth months 
 of the year. These festivals are 
 called o-harai no matmri, and are 
 supposed to effect the puriheation of 
 
 the whole nation from sin during the 
 preceding half-year. Every believer 
 who has one of these o-harai in his 
 kami-dana is protected thereby from 
 misfortune for the next six months, 
 at the expiration of which time he 
 ought to exchange the o-harai for a 
 new one, which he must fetch from 
 Ise' in person ; but in practice the 
 o-harai is only changed once a year, 
 perhaps less often. The old ones 
 ought to be cast into a river or into 
 the sea, or may be destroyed by burn- 
 ing. They are usually employed to 
 light the fire which boils the water 
 for the bath prej^ared for the miko, 
 or virgin priestesses, after their dance 
 
CHAP. X.] THE SACRED SHRINES OF ISE. 251 
 
 the minute or two that they stooped before the shrine? 
 They no doubt asked for whatever they wanted in particular, 
 and generally for long life, and the means of life and happi- 
 ness in the years to come. 
 
 As a pilgrim myself I desired to see and learn a little- 
 more, and therefore I gladly fell in with the suggestion of 
 the priests, who proposed that we should go round to the 
 side of the temple inclosure and get a look at the buildings, 
 and especially at the shrine or temple itself, from an eminence 
 which afforded this. This we did, and had a very good, and 
 for all practical purposes a sufficient, view of what we came 
 to see. Of course we did not see, nor did we expect to see, 
 the mirror itself. Years upon years roll by without the 
 chief priest himself seeing even the case containing it, and 
 the other priests are not admitted into the building 
 without good cause. However, there was the temple, look- 
 ing just as it had looked when Christ was born, or nearly 
 so, and, as already said of the outer temple, the whole 
 appearing not unlike a substantial set of farm buildings.* 
 Inside of the door we were looking at was the mirror 
 itself, and therefore nothing was wanting to complete the 
 success of our pilgrimage. 
 
 Our agreeable companions the priests, however, most 
 kindly suggested that we ought to see one of the cere- 
 monial dances of the temple, and to this we gladly assented, 
 on learning that it would not be a repetition of what we had 
 seen at Osaka and at Nara, but one of the most ancient 
 
 in honour of the uji-gami, or patron 
 god of the locality, at his festival. 
 Up to the revolution in 1868, as it 
 was practically impossible for every 
 householder to fetch his own o-liarai 
 from Ise, there existed a class of 
 persons, called os/ii, who made it 
 their trade to hawk the o-harai about 
 the country, selling almanacs at the 
 same time. This practice has been 
 lately prohibited by the Mikado’s 
 government, and they can now be 
 obtained only at the temples them- 
 
 selves or at the recognised agencies.” 
 — ‘ The Shinto Temples of Ise,’ by 
 Mr. Ernest Satow, read at the Asiatic 
 Society of Japan. Mr. Satow’s is 
 doubtless a much fuller and better 
 account of these ancient temples than 
 mine, but I have thought it best to 
 tell my own story in my own way, 
 without attempting to rival, in any 
 degree, his more scholarly and studied 
 account. 
 
 * See small engraving on p. 88, 
 vol. i. 
 
252 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. X. 
 
 description, handed down from generation to generation at 
 these Ise shrines. The room had an altar at the end 
 opposite the entrance, over which was a large mirror. Bound 
 the altar and walls were an abundance of goJieis, and of 
 hands and tassels. At the altar end of the room sat on one 
 side a priest, and along each of the side walls were the 
 musicians and dancers, all sitting on their heels. The 
 musicians, who were also singers, were all men ; the dancers 
 were quite young girls, attired in white and red, with 
 frontlets of brass, from each end of which depended a cord 
 and tassel. On the tops of their heads were large hunches 
 of flowers ; their hack hair was in a queue with tassels 
 attached, surmounted with gilt hows and ribbons. There 
 were two equally young girls in red and blue with plainer 
 headdresses, who in a certain way attended on the others. 
 The dance began by a subordinate priest or attendant coming 
 in by a side entrance with a wet branch of the sacred saJcahi- 
 tree in his hand. After bowing to the shrine he turned to 
 the visitors, and waved it a few times swiftly before them, 
 then disappearing. Keturning again to the same entrance, he 
 handed in to the two hlue-and-red attendants trays of herbs, 
 rice, and fruits in succession. These were borne, cere- 
 moniously elevated, to the six priestesses, who conveyed them 
 in a similar manner to the altar, placing the contents of the 
 first two trays upon an inner altar, and those of the remain- 
 ing four upon an outer one, returning the trays to their two 
 attendants, who passed them out of the building. 
 
 While this was proceeding, the hand sent forth what 
 sounded to me as wailing, imploring, importunate sounds, with 
 an occasional blow upon the drum for emphasis. The priest, 
 who wore the ancient headdress, like that of the Mikado, 
 now rose, and after a few obeisances before the mirror sat 
 down (upon his heels) facing the altar, and intoned a prayer, 
 or norito, from a large sheet of paper held outspread before 
 him, the musicians and dancers and attendants all sitting with 
 bowed heads to its end. Small branches of sahald were now 
 brought to the priestesses, and the dance took place, to the 
 accompaniment of livelier music than before, the dance 
 
CHAP. X.] 
 
 THE SACRED SHRINES OF ISE. 
 
 253 
 
 comprising no very active movements, consisting mainly of 
 short, slow, and grave promenadings, with occasional stately 
 bowings, and much slow waving of the branches. This 
 over, a boy entered dressed in the military undress robes of 
 a huge (court noble) of the olden times, and holding in his 
 hands a branch of sahahi, with a pendant hoop, doubtless 
 in lieu of a mirror. He danced, as it is called, to much 
 louder music, hut the dancing was little more than further 
 promenading and making certain sweeping movements 
 with the sahahi-hmiiGh., with an occasional high step. Of 
 course it is a great pity for the significance, if any, of all 
 this to he lost upon me and my readers, hut nothing ex- 
 planatory could he elicited from any of the Japanese present, 
 and from the answers of the priests I infer that if the 
 various movements of these dances ever had any great and 
 special significance, the remembrance of it is pretty nearly 
 or quite lost. The priest next came forward again, and, 
 after elevating the written prayer a few times before the 
 shrine, left the building by the side door. The process of 
 placing the fruits, etc., upon the altar was now reversed, 
 and everything was removed from the altars and taken away, 
 the music the while playing loud and joyous strains. With 
 this ended the most ancient of the dances in the most sacred 
 of the purely national shrines of Japan. 
 
 The priests who had accompanied us round the temples 
 were good enough to present me, in addition to the plans 
 already mentioned, with a drawing of the dance which we 
 had seen, and some reports of the revenues and expenditures 
 of the temples. The priests number fifty-nine in the two 
 temples. Later in the day they kindly sent me a drawing 
 of the house we were staying in at Fruichi, and a Uji cup 
 each for my son and myself, as further memorials of the 
 place. Before leaving the grounds of this temple we 
 obtained some of the papers such as other pilgrims take 
 away as tokens of their pilgrimage, so that all the objects in 
 view in our visit to the Ise shrines were now fulfilled. It 
 was not possible, however, to leave these ancient woods, con- 
 secrated by the cares and prayers and pilgrimages of 
 
254 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. X. 
 
 millions upon millions of these good and kindly Japanese 
 people, and with such an air of antiquity about the great 
 broad-hased, high-towering, time-worn trees, without once 
 more wandering a while in their solemn shade. At last we 
 passed out by a side road into the world of shops and follies 
 which had forced itself up to the very gates, and there for the 
 first and only time in Japan we found the touting system was 
 in full play. It was confined, however, to the first few shops, 
 and as the touters were pretty, nicely attired girls, one 
 •soon forgave them, and entered into both the shops and the 
 follies like any other pilgrim. Then, betaking ourselves to 
 our jinrilci-slias, we returned home to Fruichi, only stop- 
 ping once to enter for a moment or two one of the many 
 places of amusement for pilgrims which exist near the 
 shrines, both in the villages and on the highway. 
 
 Some of the party who shared with us this visit to the 
 ancient temples of Ise seemed disappointed that we should 
 have had to go so far and see so little. But upon me their 
 effect was more impressive than anything of the kind which 
 I had seen in Japan. I suppose this was in part, at least, due 
 to the fact that we were there in undoubted contact with the 
 ancient life and the ancient faith of the country. However 
 mythical may have been the origin of the Shinto religion, 
 wherever the mirror may have come from, whatever the 
 degree in which the historic and the legendary may have 
 been mixed in the stories of the early Mikados, these 
 temples undoubtedly were for age after age, and century 
 after century, before Buddhism was known here, the objects 
 to which the thoughts of every Japanese and the steps of mil- 
 lions were directed. In fixing the dates which I have given, I 
 have followed the only records that profess, so far as I know, 
 to be authentic, and they are those given, I believe, although 
 sometimes with reserve, in all hooks now published on the 
 subject. At the same time I do not ask the reader to accept 
 them without some modification, and for the reason that to 
 make them good some of the subsequent Mikados must have 
 lived, as stated in a former chapter, to ages which, if not 
 absolutely impossible, as many will pronounce them, are 
 
CHAP. X.] 
 
 TEE SAC BED SHIUNES OF ISE. 
 
 255 
 
 certainly improbable. Siijin-Tenno, wlio was the first to pass 
 the sacred mirror out of his keeping, is said to have died 
 at the age of one hundred and nineteen. Suinin-Tenno, 
 who succeeded him, and ordered the building of this temple 
 at Uji, lived to such an age that he must have been ready 
 on entering it to exclaim with Tithonus — 
 
 ‘"Cold my wrinkled feet 
 
 Upon thy glimmering thresholds, when the steam 
 ; Floats up from those dim fields about the homes 
 Of happy men that have the power to die. 
 
 And grassy barrows of the happier dead.” 
 
 He was one hundred and forty-one years old when released. 
 His successor, Keiko-Tenno, is credited with a still longer 
 life, dying at the age of one hundred and forty-three. Still 
 whatever errors of chronology may have got into these early 
 records, here at the Uji and Yamada temples we are in un- 
 doubted contact with the earliest historic embodiments of the 
 Shinto faith, and look upon buildings exactly like those of 
 Japan at the commencement of the Christian era. Along 
 the roads over which we travelled, into the woods which we 
 entered, up the hillside which we ascended, men and women 
 had been coming and going through many generations, with 
 this religion and shrines like these their only religion and 
 their only shrines, just, as we saw them coming and going 
 to-day. Yes, still they come and still they go, caring, hear- 
 ing, knowing nothing of all that which we at home consider 
 to be the very essence of our faith, and without which many 
 declare real religion to be impossible. He that runs may 
 read the moral. 
 
 Although going late to bed on the evening of the shrine- 
 visitations, so to speak, we had to be up and at breakfast by 
 six the next morning, Friday the 7th of March (in order to 
 allow the servants to pack our luggage and such articles of 
 domestic use and provisions as were carried about for our 
 convenience), and therefore at half past five I was aroused by 
 the throwing open of the sliding sides of the house, and the 
 letting in of the morning light. And how much more than 
 mere light was let in ! So beautiful was the landscape dis- 
 
256 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. X. 
 
 played that even the native servants were loud in their 
 expressions of admiration. It was “A Study in Blue and 
 Gold ” worthy of the name : the “ gold ” was the sky steeped 
 in the up-streaming splendour of the sun, as yet itself unseen ; 
 the “ blue ” was the thin veil of vapour drawn across the 
 deep and branching valleys, woven of the night-mists and 
 the dawn. And there was very much more than the blue 
 and the gold : there were dark hills below the one and above 
 the other ; there were the rice-swamps gleaming like mirrors 
 between the mists and us ; there were trees and wooded islands 
 rising softly out of the mists ; and there were many other 
 beauties, so pure, so delicate, so tender that I dare not blur 
 and injure them by attempting to paint them with my poor 
 pen. Ah me ! yesterday was spent at the shrines of a 
 mythic relic of the sun-goddess of J apan ; this day opens 
 with the rising of the sun-goddess herself — sun-goddess not 
 of Japan only, hut of every land, and of many another world 
 besides ours ! And yet no goddess she ! Our sun in all its 
 glory is hut one of the countless myriads of lights that blaze 
 for ever in the Temple of Immortal Splendour wherein it is 
 our privilege to worship. In that temple there is no shrine, 
 for the deity penetrates every part of it — no music, for its 
 silence is more impressive than any sounds — no dances, for 
 the mystic mazes of the starry motions are for ever unfolding 
 themselves — no priests, for its only devotions are the love 
 and the pursuit and the possession of truth. But, alas ! 
 alas ! a temple like this, always open and always present, 
 does not suit the multitudes of men. They must have books 
 and hits of paper, and singings and fifings and drum-heat- 
 ings, and clappings of hands, and standings up and kneel- 
 ings down, and bowings and facings about, and creeds and 
 formularies, and litanies and noritos, and a thousand other 
 inventions and contrivances ; and what they demand in that 
 Avay there are always plenty to supply them with in this 
 and every country, and in this and every age. 
 
 At 7 A.M. our imposing procession of jinrihi-shas was once 
 more in movement and rattling hack to the Miyagawa. 
 Very pretty was the crossing of the river in the ferry-boats 
 
CHAP. X.] 
 
 THE SA CUED JSHUINES OF USE. 
 
 257 
 
 in the early morning light, with the banks again crowded 
 by the cheerful country people ; and very pretty also the 
 picture afterwards formed while we were walking for a 
 mile along the bank of the river — formed of our little 
 carriages with their brightly painted surfaces and brass 
 fittings, their red rugs, and their men chiefly in blue, with 
 a village hard by flying a few flags, and massing a little 
 crowd of its populace as a background for our picturesque 
 party. A blue sky bent above, a bright sun shone down, 
 a fresh breeze blew past, and everybody present seemed to 
 share in the exhilaration of the hour — everybody except the 
 passing pilgrims going shrinewards, who, as they neared the 
 object of their long marchings and toilings, appeared to give 
 way somewhat to their weariness ; so at least I fancied. But 
 the pretty picture was speedily broken up when we reached 
 the group of jmriJd-sJias, and away we went again, to the 
 monotonous music of the men who dragged us along. I 
 often tried to catch the words they employ in the partly 
 choral and partly responsive noises which they make, but 
 they are usually too indefinite, not to say inarticulate, for 
 me to be sure of them. On the way to these Ise shrines, 
 however, on a wet afternoon, I was successful in distinguish- 
 ing clearly the burden of their song, or rather of two of 
 their songs. One was, as well as I can spell it — 
 
 “ Ew-y, tow-y, Ew-y, choss ? 
 
 Ew-y, tow-y, Ew-y, choss?” 
 
 the “ choss ” being spoken in a tone of emphatic inter- 
 rogative. And the other was — 
 
 “ Sherry, sho-y, sherry, clioss ? ” 
 
 which I need not write down again, as the reader can repeat 
 it to himself as often as he finds it amusing. I tried to 
 discover if these or similar sounds mean anything in par- 
 ticular, but could not find that they do. If they do, my 
 readers must kindly remember that I am ignorant of even 
 elementary Japanese, while these expressions of opinion, 
 feeling, inquiry, or whatever else it is that they express, 
 
 VOL. II. s 
 
258 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. X. 
 
 doubtless belong to tbe most recondite refinements of class 
 language. 
 
 Pilgrims, still pilgrims, always pilgrims tbis morning, at 
 every part of tbe road ! I suppose it is tbe fine and bracing 
 morning that draws them out and ’along the road to Yamada 
 and Uji in such numbers. And how interesting it is to 
 observe their faces as they pass! We speak of sculpture 
 galleries, and go into artificial ecstasies over the poor ex- 
 pressionless stones of a Gibson (mostly, though not always, 
 poor and expressionless, or expressive of something not 
 worth expressing, as I think), and yet are often without the 
 faculty of observing the wondrous sculptures of the streets. 
 Here are people by hundreds, and even thousands, and in 
 the cities and towns of Japan that we have already passed 
 through we must have seen many hundreds of thousands of 
 them, all roughly shaped at first by race, family descent, 
 climate, soil, food, and other general influences ; and 
 with all the lighter and finer lines afterwards put in by 
 personal habits, cares, joys, sorrows, loves, terrors, and all 
 the thousand other industrious artists whose chisels and 
 files are for ever toiling away upon the few square inches of 
 the human face. To me the interest of their works is 
 inexhaustible, and I know not whether the most interesting 
 of all are not those faces on which ignorance, want, neglect, 
 and squalor have wrought their evil work most deeply. 
 
 And almost as various as the faces of the pilgrims are their 
 costumes. Some of the women and girls are almost as gaily 
 robed as dancing-girls, with costly looking, parti-coloured 
 dresses, flashing silk leggings, and hair dressed a la mode. 
 Others shuffle past in colours not less bright, but with 
 clothes of poorer texture, and, where the leggings are not, 
 the gloss of nature occasionally gleams through the open 
 robe. All alike wear open-breasted dresses, discoloration 
 by sun being but little feared where birth has already done 
 the bronzing wdiich the sun alone does upon our more 
 colourless forms. The men are even more variously dressed 
 than the women. As regards head-preservers, I have already 
 mentioned that at this wet season of the year even the 
 
CHAP. X.] 
 
 THE SACRED SHRINES OF ISE. 
 
 259 
 
 newest of them, and those most worthy of being displayed, 
 are usually carried in front or behind, those placed upon the 
 head being yery few in number. But among the pilgrims, 
 as among the citizens of the country, in these days of 
 change, one of the oddest things observable is the frequency 
 with which the European hat of felt, in its diversified forms, 
 is worn in connection with the native costume. This per- 
 haps more than anything else gives to the people of Japan 
 at the present time that sort of masquerade air of which one 
 is sensible in moving about among them. But they are, I 
 venture to believe, wise in their generation in favouring so 
 much the adoption of a hat of comfortable shape and 
 material. Excepting a chimney-pot hat which I took with 
 me hut never once required, I saw none of that description 
 in Japan, and although there are many Japanese who have 
 been to Europe who must possess such articles, they never 
 apparently make use of them. I trust the use of the felt 
 hat will have a great effect in furthering the abolition of 
 the habit of shaving the head which is so very general in 
 the country among the men and the children, and which in 
 the latter case appears to be attended with so much injury 
 and disease of the skin as to make a ’walk in the street 
 of a city or village quite shocking to a European. But 
 the pilgrims for the most part carry the straw hat only, and 
 get up their hair either literally by combing it straight 
 on end all over, or else, which is much more general, grow 
 a front tuft of it pretty long, doubling and tying it down 
 flat, with a part of the head shaved on either side of it as 
 before described. This last is the style of the common 
 people generally, so far as I have seen them. It is, however, 
 a usual thing for all the side and back hair to be worn very 
 long and hanging loosely about the neck. The travelling 
 upper robes are worn short by the men, who either wear 
 tight-fitting blue trousers or no trousers at all, the sub- 
 stitute being in that case a very scanty article in white 
 linen, imitated from the fashion adopted by ‘‘ the grand old 
 gardener and his wife ” after they became sinful, and had 
 compromised us all so sadly. As regards protections for the 
 
260 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. X. 
 
 feet, the pilgrim fashion was most frequently to do without 
 them, or to wear straw soles attached to the feet by straw 
 strings, the opportunities for purchasing which were abun- 
 dant in every village. In some cases, as among the better- 
 to-do people usually, a thick white sock was worn for 
 household use, with a wooden clog or patten for road use. 
 Most of the jhlgrims, both men and women, carried a walking- 
 staff in their right hand, and over the left shoulder a longer 
 staff with a small parcel or two attached. The pilgrims 
 returning from the shrines carry bundles of the charms and 
 remembrances which they obtain there, slinging them round 
 their necks. The ages of these religious people varied from 
 those of young and blooming girls to those of the most 
 decrepit old Tithonuses that ever shuffled one foot before 
 the other. Poor old souls ! poor young souls ! After 
 plodding their weary way, perhaps for many a hundred 
 miles, they knelt or sat before the white veil, threw down 
 their little coin or paper of coins, uttered their brief prayer, 
 bought a little bit of paper and a stick or two, and wandered 
 off back again, let us hope in every case with a sure and 
 certain ‘‘ hope ” of something, if with nothing more. 0 ye 
 gods of earth, how easily ye have your way with us poor 
 mortals ! But seldom indeed are ye more gentle, more 
 merciful, more easy with us than at these shrines of Ise. 
 Ofttimes in other lands ye sit with your monstrous 
 brazen faces, your triple heads, your thousand hands, your 
 grinning dragons, your glaring beasts, your demoniac 
 gatekeepers, demanding, many of you, not sacrifices of 
 the people’s food alone, but feasts of flesh and libations 
 of blood, and offerings of the very lives of those who wor- 
 ship you. But here, at these ancient aboriginal shrines of 
 the Sunrise Land, whither these poor wretches toil, no 
 monstrous idol, no grinning demon, no red-handed priest 
 with sacrificial steel awaits them ; but a simple mirror, 
 hidden in the simplest of all buildings, and screened by 
 a simple veil of white, is all that their deities, here at 
 least, employ to represent and to impress upon them their 
 faith. That they shall lave their hands in pure water, and 
 
CHAP. X.] 
 
 THE E AC RED SHRINES OF TSE. 
 
 261 
 
 throw clown upon the open earth in front of the veil some 
 coin, is expected of them ; hut these are the only ceremonial 
 and the only sacrifice that the gods impose on them, and, 
 these fulfilled, their own hearts are left free to utter the 
 prayer, and, better still, to inspire the prophecy which is 
 lienceforth to resound from this the most sacred spot on 
 earth to them. 
 
 GOLD FISH OF NAGOYA CASTLE. 
 
262 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. x[. 
 
 CHAPTEE XI. 
 
 NAGOYA AND THE SHRINE OF THE SACRED SWORD. 
 
 The town of Tsii — An attack of illness in Yokkaichi — Amateur artists — 
 Habits of the Japanese- — Mountain scenery — Sail on a river — The town 
 of Miya — The Atsuta shrine — The sacred sword “ Cloud Cluster ’’ — 
 Yamato-Dake — His expedition against the Ainos — The name of the 
 sword changed to Grass-mower ” — Native history of the sacred sword 
 — Estimation in which swords are held in Japan — Their forms and 
 qualities — Sword-making a profession of honour — Sword inscriptions — 
 Etiquette of the sword — The city of Nagoya — A banquet and an ex- 
 hibition of porcelain — Amateur drawings and writings — Nagoya Castle 
 — Its towers surmounted with golden fishes — An attempt to steal them 
 — History of the castle — Kato Kiyomasa, its designer — Palace of the 
 Shogun. 
 
 The town of Ano, or Tsii, in the province of Ise, in the Miya 
 Ken, at which our first half-day’s journey from Fruichi was 
 to end, is one of considerable importance. The number of 
 its houses is 5255, and that of its inhabitants 22,489, 
 about one thousand of whom are Shizoku, most of them 
 holding Eoku Keng (pension bonds) from the government, 
 the interests of which they live on. The remainder are 
 merchants and labourers, the former being the greater 
 in number. This province was formerly owned by the 
 Todo-Uji (House of Todos), and here they resided with 
 their retainers. At that time the number of people was 
 great and daily increasing, so that the town was prosperous. 
 But after the change of the government from Han to Ken, 
 the lord of the province removed to Tokio, and made Kwo- 
 zoku of the Tokio-Fu his seat; the trade of the place then 
 became depressed, in consequence of the scarcity of pur- 
 chases by the samurai, and of the decrease of the people. 
 
CHAP. XI.] NAGOYA — SIIEINE OF SACRED SWORD. 263 
 
 By degrees the town was thus made dull, and less inviting 
 than before. Now, however, with the founding of the 
 government offices, judicial departments, and school for 
 teachers (Shi hang Gakko), the place is again populated with 
 officials and students, and the town being on the highway 
 of the Ise Dai-jingo, or pilgrims, is constantly visited by the 
 passers to and from, to the number of more than a hundred 
 thousand people yearly. The people from the provinces of 
 Amooki, Ichisi, and other places also frequently visit this town 
 to make purchases, and fish of different sorts are brought to 
 market here, so that Tsu is now resuming its former liveli- 
 ness and prosperity. On our arrival there the mayor of the 
 Ken was good enough to receive us, in a building facing the 
 castle,* and on the bank of the castle moat. Here we took 
 luncheon and a brief rest, soon resuming our journey towards 
 Yokkaichi, where we arrived long before sundown, taking 
 up quarters prepared for us at an inn in which the trouble 
 had been taken to build an additional small room or two for 
 the supply of such extra accommodation as was presumed to 
 be essential to Europeans. Our main rooms w^ere, however, 
 essentially Japanese, and unfortunately I had a longer 
 opportunity of studying them than was anticipated or de- 
 
 * During the years of Airoku, 
 Hosono-Ikino-kami-Fugi-Atsi erec- 
 ted this castle. In the eleventh year 
 of Airoku (15G8 a.u.) a part of the 
 province v\as conquered by Ota No- 
 bunaga, Lord of the Gitfu Castle, 
 who took possession of the castle and 
 placed Ota Kamongnosuke Tada Hiro 
 in command of the frontier, and re- 
 turned to Gitfu. In the tvvellth year 
 of Airoku (15(39 a.d.) Ota Kazuke- 
 nosuke Nobukaue succeeded Ka- 
 mongnosuke. • In the eighth year of 
 Tengshoo (1580 a.d.) Nobukane 
 erected a five-storied pagoda in the 
 •castle. In the eleventh year of 
 Tengshoo (1583 a.d.) Tomita Shi- 
 nano - no - kami Tomonobu became 
 lord of the castle, and afterwards 
 
 removed to Ji-iyo. In tlie thirteenth 
 year of Kei-cho (1608 a.d.) Todo- 
 Izumi-no-kami Takatora (from Ji-iyo) 
 was made lord of the castle and occu- 
 pied it, when repairs and alterations 
 were made. During the years of 
 Genna (the first year of Genna was 
 1615 A.D.) the moat surrounding the 
 castle in and out were made. At 
 that time the lord of the castle’s 
 receipt was 323,950 holms per annum 
 (each holm nearly five imperial 
 bushels). In the fourth year of 
 Meiji (1871 a.d.) the government 
 was changed. Hang made into 
 Keng ; and the castle has since been 
 used as barracks for the Osaka gar- 
 rison. 
 
264 
 
 JAPAN, 
 
 [CJIAP. XI. 
 
 sired. At midnight, after writing for three or fonr hou rs, I 
 rose to jirepare for bed, hut found rising no e^^"m^ter ; 
 whether from the long journeys in the jinrihi-slias, or from 
 a violent rheumatic attack, 1 knew not (and even now can 
 only conjecture), I found myself in extreme pain in the 
 muscles and nerves of the hack as soon as I attempted to 
 move. It was impossible to help myself beyond calling for 
 assistance, and with that assistance.! was got to bed. On 
 Tuesday, the day of starting from Kioto, we had travelled in 
 these little jolting hand-carriages nearly forty miles; on 
 Wednesday about thirty-five miles ; on Thursday, more than 
 twenty ; and on this day, Friday, nearly forty miles, the 
 intervals of travelling being, perhaps, too much occujued 
 with sitting at a writing-table. However, after having the 
 best that could he done for me without medical aid during 
 the night, doctors of experience were telegraphed for from 
 Tsu and from the city of Nagoya, the former, a native 
 gentleman, having nearly twenty miles of road to travel, and 
 the latter, a German professor. Dr. Eoretz, an almost equal 
 distance. Both were most friendly and attentive, and with 
 their kind personal assistance, extended over three days of 
 pain, I was able to start again, on Tuesday the 11th of 
 ]\[arch, for Miya by steamer, and thence to Nagoya. 
 
 During my illness presents of fruit were sent by local 
 persons ; most of the attendance was performed by girls, 
 whose cheerful presence, it was supposed, would contribute 
 to the pleasant passing of the idle hours ; and when the 
 improvement of my health justified it, visitors dropped in 
 and amused me in various ways. One of the officers of the 
 adjoining county of Aichi, Mr. Hinoki, who had come over 
 from ^liya, next Nagoya, to further the arrangements for our 
 stay there, was kind enough to drop in and draw some 
 pretty ink pictures, occasionally executing parts of them, 
 for the amusement of the thing, with a brush held in his 
 mouth, or in his nostril, or tied to his elbow, or between 
 his toes, the results in all cases being good, and sometimes 
 excellent. 
 
 This illness of a few days in a purely Japanese inn enabled 
 
niAP. XI.] NAGOYA — SHBTNE OF SACRED SWORD. 265 
 
 me to see mncli of tlie mode of life in such places, one of tlie 
 oddest features of which was the pulling out of the pipe and 
 tobacco-pouch and the taking of a few whiffs by almost 
 every one who came to your room, from the native doctor 
 who was there to prescribe for you, to the woman who fed 
 your hibachi with charcoal, and the girl who handed you 
 your cup of tea. Of course I very much regretted delaying 
 his excellency Admiral Kawamura for three days on the 
 journey homeward to the seat of government, but his patience 
 and kindness were inexhaustible. 
 
 We left Yokkaichi at 9 a.m., on a morning of great beauty, 
 judged even from our point of view, viz. that of mere men, 
 whose only paths lie along the surface of the earth and the 
 sea, subject to every variation of cloud and breeze belonging 
 to the mere surface, and often cut off from that splendour 
 
 Which o’ersiireads 
 All noise and tempest.” 
 
 I say judged from our point of view, because a little way 
 up, of course, just above our low and varying clouds, the 
 splendour of sun-brightness and star-beauty alternately 
 prevail, undimmed by cloud or storm, and of this mountain 
 regions frequently remind one. The streets of Yokkaichi were 
 lined with people, exhibiting unusual interest, it having 
 become known, doubtless, that our party, including a 
 minister and two foreigners, had been staying in the town 
 for several days — an unwonted event. The mayor of the 
 Ken and the physician from Tsu accompanied us to the 
 steamer and saw us off. We ’svere in the centre of an 
 amphitheatre of mountains, with the bay and the level-lands 
 for the arena. And how beautiful were the mountains ! In 
 the west, all the way up from Ise in the south to the 
 north-west of Yokkaichi, the morning light displayed their 
 jagged outlines and their carved slopes as clearly as if we 
 had held them in our hands like sea-shells, and observed thus 
 closely their grooved and chased surfaces. On the north- 
 east, towering into the very heavens, and more snow-white 
 than any tent, was the mountain of Komagadake, which we 
 
266 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. XI. 
 
 had seen from Ise on the morning of onr quitting the shrines 
 and towns ; and more to the east the snowy ranges of Ibouki, 
 with dark peaks and bright peaks, near peaks and distant 
 j^eaks, rising in such loveliness between and beyond as if 
 the object of their author had been to sketch a picture rather 
 than to build a world. 
 
 At noon we arrived outside of Miya, which is the port of 
 and continuous with the great city of Nagoya, and in open 
 boats, with sails formed of separate strips of linen, after the 
 fashion of Japan, sailed into and about two miles up the 
 river to the town. The river approach has obviously been 
 preserved (from silting up by the river deposits) by arti- 
 ficial works laboriously carried out and renewed. After a 
 Japanese luncheon in Miya, we drove a few hundred yards 
 to the famous Shinto temple of Atsuta, which is supported 
 by the government, and which is renowned as the depository 
 of the Sacred Sword, Kusanagi-no-mitzurugi (Grass-mowing 
 Sword), one of the three emblems of the Shinto faith. We 
 visited it unexpectedly, hut were well received by the simple- 
 minded and modest-mannered priests, who answered such 
 questions as we put, and gave us a written description of the 
 temple. We stood again in an ancient park, of magnificent 
 old trees, with several shrines, and with lanterns or light- 
 pillars innumerable, and before a gateway hung, like those 
 at Ise, with white veils. Here, however, the veils were 
 three in number, side by side, and were looped apart in the 
 middle, to facilitate the viewing of the interior buildings. 
 There were the pilgrims kneeling and sitting as at Ise, first 
 washing the hands and throwing down their coins before 
 uttering their brief prayers, and, let us hope, devising their 
 prophecies of good. This temple of Atsuta is very ancient, 
 having been founded, for the purpose of receiving the sacred 
 sword, in the second century after Christ, by the sister of the 
 heroic Yamato-Pak^ after he had made a successful war 
 against the eastern savages by aid of the sword. 
 
 The account of the sword given to me at the temple was, 
 I must admit, a sufficiently clear one, being to the effect 
 that the sacred weapon had originally belonged to the sun- 
 
CHAP. XI.] NAGOYA — SBRINE OF SACRED SWORD. 267 
 
 goddess, Tenslio-Dai-jin, from whom it was stolen by a serpent. 
 The brother of Tensho, whose name was Susanoo-no-mikoto, 
 recovered it from the serpent, and it was placed in a shrine 
 on the sacred spot on which we stood, Tensho approving this 
 as a very sacred place. At a much later period, viz. the 
 beginning of the second century, Yamato-Dake, being com- 
 missioned by his father, the Mikado Keiko, to make war 
 upon the savage inhabitants of the eastern part of the 
 country, as previously stated, obtained permission to use the 
 sacred sword, and after employing it with success deposited 
 it in this shrine with increased claims to reverence, and ever 
 since it has remained here, and has naturally enough been 
 an object of veneration to millions who have come day and 
 night to bow before it. It must be confessed, however, that 
 this simple narrative begins to exhibit some legendary 
 aspects when one remembers that the personage Tensho- 
 Dai-jin is no other than the bright sun-goddess herself, 
 that the serpent which carried off the sword had eight heads, 
 and that Susanod only got the sword back by intoxicating 
 the monster, slaying him while in his cups, and extracting 
 the sword from his tail. Even as regards Yamato-Dake, 
 the story told to us (and told to the pilgrims and inhabitants 
 of Miya likewise, in a printed paper) would have been more 
 easily intelligible if one were not otherwise made aware that 
 in the w^ar against the savages the sword was used by him 
 to stop a brushwood fire that was overwhelming his army, 
 by cutting the grass in front of it, and that it likewise drove 
 back the flames, to the overthrow and rout of the enemy that 
 had kindled them. Hence the name “ Grass mower.” 
 
 But it will be better to give the reader a somewhat fuller 
 account of the matter which (since writing the last paragraph) 
 I have found in the short paper on “ The Sword of Japan,” 
 read at the Asiatic Society of Japan by Mr. T. H. E. 
 McClatchie, one of the clever and accomplished staff of 
 secretaries and interpreters by whom our minister, Sir H. 
 Parkes, is surrounded in the British Embassy at Tokio. 
 Mr. McClatchie says : “ Saburodaiyu, in his preface to the 
 ‘ Eeference as to New Swords,’ gives a short sketch of the 
 
2G8 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. XI. 
 
 Japanese legends regarding the history of the weapon ; and 
 though his allusions, in connection with his subject, to the 
 mythology of his country may perhaps provoke a smile, still 
 they are worthy of note as being the words of an author who 
 is generally held to he a high authority on the matter of 
 which he treats. The translation of this sketch reads as 
 follows : ‘ If we search out in bygone days the origin of the 
 sword, we find that our country excelled barbarian localities 
 in regard to metal. In the olden times of the divine period, 
 when Izanagi and Izanami-no-mikoto, standing upon the 
 floating bridge of heaven, thrust down their glittering blade 
 and probed the blue ocean, the drops from its point congealed 
 and hardened and became an island, after which the deities 
 created several other islands. These eventually became a 
 large country composed of eight islands, and amongst the 
 many names of this country they styled it too the ‘Land 
 of many blades.’ In its early days there existed the divine 
 swords To-nigiri and Ya-nigiri. Then, too, when Susanoo- 
 no-mikoto smote the eight-clawed great dragon, and struck 
 him on the tail, the sword of the deity became slightly 
 nicked, and from the inside of the tail he drew out a single 
 blade. ‘ This,’ said he, ‘ is a marvellous sword,’ and he 
 caused it to be presented to Tensho-Dai-jin. This was 
 styled the ‘ Sword of the Clustering Clouds of Heaven,’ 
 and also the ‘ Grass-mowing Sword.’ Should not this 
 be said to be the commencement of fixing the dates of 
 swords ? That ‘ Sword of the Clustering Clouds ’ was 
 made one of the ‘ Three divine jirecious things ’ {i.e. the 
 seal, sword, and mirror held by the Mikados), it has had no 
 equal in this country, and, being the gigantic weapon that 
 watches over it, it is a thing of great dread even to speak 
 of. Now, when our country had arrived at the heavenly 
 rule of Sujin-Tenno, the tenth of the mortal emperors, he 
 feared to dwell in the same palace with the ‘ Divine precious 
 things,’ and so he caused a person called Amakuni, a man of 
 the department of Uda, in the province of Yamato, a far- 
 removed descendant of Me-hitotsu-Gami, to forge an imita- 
 tion of the sword ; and as for the ‘ Clustering Clouds,’ that 
 
CHAP. XI.] NAGOYA — SHRINE OF SACRED SWORD. 269 
 
 had descended from the divine age, he was pleased to offer 
 it up to the shrine of Tensho-Dai-jin. Under the heavenly 
 rule of Keiko-Tenno, Yamato-Dake-no-mikoto, at the time 
 of his expedition against the east, went to pay reverence at 
 the shrines of Ise. His aunt, Yamato Hime-no-mikoto, was 
 the resident of the shrine at that period, and she besought 
 that the divine sword of the ‘ Clustering Clouds ’ might be 
 handed down to him from the shrine, and so gave it over to 
 Yamato-Dake-no-mikoto, together with a tinder case attached. 
 This is said to have been the origin of the custom of fastening 
 a charm case to a sword as a guardian for children. Yamato- 
 Dake-no-mikoto, having accomplished the subjugation of the 
 east, offered up the sword at Atsuta, in the province of 
 Owari. Up to the present day, the virtue of this sword, 
 permanent and immutable even unto the end of myriads of 
 ages, is the guardian of our country and our homes, and the 
 protector of our own selves. In no way can it be fully 
 described by the pen ! The second ^ precious sword ’ was 
 buried in the western seas at the death of Antoku-Tenno 
 (1185 A.D.).” 
 
 This may not be an unsuitable place to speak of the con- 
 sideration which the sword has received in Japan. Being- 
 one of the three insignia of the divine authority of the 
 Mikados, it became to the military class a symbol at once of 
 their loyalty and their pride. “ Cherished by the samurai 
 as almost part of his own self, and considered by the common 
 people as their protector against violence, what wonder,” 
 says Mr. McClatchie, “ that we should find it spoken of in 
 glowing terms by Japanese writers as ‘ the precious pos- 
 session of lord and vassal from times older than the divine 
 period,’ or as ‘ the living soul of the samurai ’ ? ” The 
 art of determining the maker and date of a sword-blade 
 became one of more than ordinary interest, and many 
 treatises have been written upon it. Those made before 
 1 603 A.D. are called old swords ; those made since new 
 swords. 
 
 The old form of Japanese sword, or hen, was a long, 
 straight, double-edged weapon, while the modern sword. 
 
270 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. XI. 
 
 Itatana, lias a single edge, and is sliglitly curved, especially 
 towards tlie point. A short sword or dirk, called the wahi- 
 zaslii, was until lately worn with the hatana, as a sign of 
 military or gentle birth. A short dirk without a guard, 
 known as an aihuclii, was worn by doctors, artists, and persons 
 of the fourth and fifth rank. Stilettos a foot long or less, 
 known as tanto and mamori hatana, were sometimes worn by 
 nobles, ojfficers, and gentlemen in place of the more cumbrous 
 ivahizaslii. The jintochi was a large two-handed war-sword, 
 usually borne by a sword-bearer when not in actual use. A 
 sword of medium size, worn when hunting or rambling in 
 the country, was called a nodatclii. Another kind, tatclii, 
 of which there were several styles, was hung by two slings 
 from the girdle. 
 
 The making of swords was considered an honourable pro- 
 fession, and men of good family were trained to it. It is 
 mentioned of the emperor Gotaba (1184) that not only did 
 he “ give directions to the noted smiths of the various 
 provinces and make them forge, but he also worked with his 
 own hand ” ; later noted smiths, according to their evidence, 
 received honorary rank from the court. The decoration and 
 mounting of swords embraced a large and diversified field of 
 art, which has been cultivated with distinction for centuries 
 by some families. Upon the hilt are usually four highly 
 ornamental metallic pieces — the ferrule on the head of the 
 hilt, the ring next to the guard, and two pieces covering the 
 rivet holes, which latter are partly covered by the silk 
 binding of the hilt. The ferrule and ring are beautifully 
 made, and ornamented with dragons or other figures hand- 
 somely wrought in relief, being often of solid gold, the 
 other two pieces resembling these ornaments. The guard is 
 often a “ wonderful piece of workmanship in metal,” usually 
 handsomely and more or less quaintly ornamented, and often 
 “ worked up with gold, silver, etc., into a detailed picture ” 
 of battles, hunts, or natural scenery. Passing through the 
 guard, and sheathing itself in the scabbard, is a narrow 
 knife or stiletto about eight inches long, even the blade of 
 which is often beautifully shaped and chased, while the 
 
CHAP. XI.] NAGOYA— SHRINE OF SACRED SWORD. 271 
 
 exposed handle is richly ornamented with gold figures to 
 match those of the hilt.* 
 
 The name of the maker of the sword with the date being 
 engraved on one side of the hilt, upon the other side was 
 sometimes inscribed a motto or a verse of poetry ; such as 
 
 “ There’s nought ’twixt heaven, and earth that man need fear who 
 carries at his belt this single blade ; ” 
 
 or, 
 
 “ One’s fate is in the hands of heaven, but a skilful fighter does 
 not meet with death ; ” 
 
 or, 
 
 In one’s last days one’s sword becomes the wealth of one’s 
 posterity.” 
 
 Swords often received specific names, and the swords of great 
 men have been handed down as heirlooms. We saw, as 
 elsewhere stated, the swords of Yoritomo in the temple of 
 Hachiman at Kamakura. In an appendix to this volume 
 I have added some notes on Celebrated Swords and their 
 makers. 
 
 The angle at which the sword was carried in the belt was 
 an indication of rank, and the etiquette of the sword was 
 both complex and solemn. “ To clash the sheath of one’s 
 sword against that belonging to another person was held to 
 he a grave breach of etiquette ; to turn the sheath in the 
 belt, as though about to draw, was tantamount to a challenge; 
 while to lay one’s weapon on the floor of a room, and to 
 kick the guard with the foot, in the direction of any one 
 else, was a deadly insult, that generally resulted in a combat 
 to the death. It was not even thought polite to draw a 
 sword from its sheath without begging the permission of any 
 other persons present.” f 
 
 * “ The small knife was used to 
 throw at an enemy, the skewers to 
 attach the heads of slain enemies 
 to the girdle.” — Pfoundes. 
 
 t See Mr. McClatcliie’s paper 
 before quoted ; also Mr. Pfoundes’s 
 
 Notes. Mr. Pfoundes adds other 
 particulars of sword etiquette: To 
 
 enter a friend’s house without leaving 
 the sword outside, a breach of friend- 
 ship. Those whose position justified 
 the aeoompauiment of an attendant 
 
272 
 
 
 [ciiAr. XI. 
 
 From tlie Atsuta temple our jinriki-slias bore us — pre- 
 ceded by representatives of the civic authorities of 
 Nagoya — to that celebrated city. Here we were taken to 
 very comfortable quarters in an hotel (purely Japanese, of 
 course), and after a short rest proceeded to fulfil an engage- 
 ment to dine with the governing authorities of the Ken 
 or county. The governor himself was absent, but his deputy 
 acted as our host, and performed the office entirely to our 
 satisfaction and pleasure. The place of the banquet was the 
 exhibition building. A select display of the beautiful porcelain 
 ware of Seto (Owari) had been brought together to interest 
 us. There was much pleasing colouring in the articles 
 displayed, with fine examples of modern blue and white ” 
 in a great variety of forms, including temple-lanterns, street 
 lamps, large decorative plaques, immense bowls and vases, 
 and other very large examples, together with a choice series 
 
 invariably left the sword in his charge 
 at the entrance, or, if alone, it was 
 usually laid down at the entrance. 
 If removed inside it was invariably 
 done by the host’s servants, and then 
 not touched with the bare hand, but 
 with a silk napkin kept for the pur- 
 pose, and the sword was placed upon 
 a sword-rack in the place of honour 
 near the guest, and treated with all 
 the politeness due to an honoured 
 visitor who would resent a discourtesy. 
 The long sword (if two were worn) 
 was withdrawn, sheathed, from the 
 girdle with the right hand, and 
 placed on the right side — an indica- 
 tion of friendship, as it could not be 
 drawn and used thus — never by the 
 left hand, or placed on the left side, 
 except when in immediate danger of 
 attack. To exhibit a naked weapon 
 was a gross insult, urdess when a 
 gentleman wished to show his friends 
 his collection. To express a wish to 
 see a sword was not usual, unless 
 when a blade of great value was in 
 question, when a request to be shown 
 it would bo a compliment the happy 
 
 possessor appreciated. The sword 
 would then be handed with the back 
 towards the guest, the edge turned 
 towards the owner and the hilt to the 
 left, the guest wrapping the hilt 
 either in the little silk napkin always 
 carried by gentlemen in their pocket- 
 books, or in a sheet of clean paper. 
 The weapon was diawn from the 
 scabbard and admired inch by inch, 
 but not to the full length unless the 
 owner pressed his guest to do so, 
 when, with much apology, the sword 
 vas entirely drawn and held away 
 fiom the other persons present. After 
 being admired, it would, if apparently 
 necessary, be carefully wiped with a 
 special cloth, sheathed, and returned 
 to the owner as before. The short 
 sword was retained in the girdle, but 
 at a prolonged visit both host and guest 
 laid it aside. Women did not wear 
 swords in their girdle by right or 
 fashion, although when travelling 
 alone it was often done. On the 
 occasion of tires, the ladies of the 
 palace sometimes placed side-arms in 
 their girdles. 
 
V 
 
Girl. to face page 273, ^ol.Il. 
 
CHAP. XI.] NAGO YA — SHRINE OF SA OR ED S WORD. 273 
 
 of articles of a smaller kind, and of purely Japanese design. 
 The exhibition comprised some remarkable examples of 
 modern porcelain, made in imitation of the old China ware 
 which now is deemed of so much value ; and also examples 
 of vases with ornaments in relief, Dresden fashion, of great 
 beauty and merit. Although these porcelain manufactures 
 are mainly the productions of Seto, which is about ten miles 
 from Nagoya, the artists employed upon them are chiefly 
 resident in Nagoya itself ; and the Owari district generally 
 is famous for its porcelain productions. There was also 
 exhibited a complete set of models, showing the appliances 
 used in the manufacture from rice of the national wine or 
 spirit, saJce, the processes being explained to us by a manu- 
 facturer. At the banquet several of the officials and merchants 
 of the city were present, and gave us a cordial welcome. In 
 the course of the evening there was national music and 
 dancing, and later on the vice-governor and some of the 
 other officers and residents of the city were so kind as to 
 make for me, offhand, at my request, some of those rough 
 but very effective drawings and writings which, more than 
 anything else, exhibit the national style both of drawing and 
 of writing, and the close relationship of the one to the other. 
 On leaving the entertainment at ten o’clock, we found many 
 of the shops and stalls of the city still open, and flowing 
 down on these, and us, and everything, the silent glory of 
 the rising moon. 
 
 Next day — it being in contemplation to travel about forty- 
 five miles along the Tokaido on the following day (the state 
 of my muscular and nervous systems, which were far from 
 satisfactory as yet, permitting) — we limited our enterprises 
 to a visit to the famous castle, the finest of those now 
 remaining in Japan, and to an inspection of the military 
 establishments now existing there. The castle proved to be 
 extremely interesting, as it contained, in a fair state of pre- 
 servation, not only the largest tower or castle proper still 
 remaining in Japan, but also a palace built and decorated for 
 the accommodation, under the old system, of the Tycoon 
 during his visits to Nagoya. In Tokio the largest tower of 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 T 
 
274 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. XI. 
 
 the Tycoon’s castle has, with its other hihldings, ceased to 
 exist, and from Osaka Castle likewise the great tower has dis- 
 appeared. In Nagoya Castle the towers exist and are in good 
 condition, the great tower being a peculiarly fine and lofty 
 edifice, surmounted with two large glittering fish, standing 
 8J feet in height, and covered with plates of gold. In 
 1872 the last possessor of the castle presented these fish to 
 the Mikado for preservation in his palace (the gold plates 
 upon them having cost £6000), and one of them was after- 
 wards sent to the Vienna Exhibition. On its passage hack 
 the vessel containing it was wrecked on the coast • of 
 Japan, hut the treasure was afterwards recovered. The in- 
 habitants of Nagoya not unnaturally desired to have these 
 golden fish restored to their former position as ornaments of 
 their tower and town, and his majesty having approved of the 
 request, they now, to use a local phrase, “ bathe the city in 
 their brightness.” It is related that on one occasion, many 
 years ago, an attempt was made to obtain possession of the 
 gold scales of these aerial creatures by a man who raised 
 himself up to them for the purpose by means of an immense 
 kite in a gale of wind at night ; he was, however, detected, 
 and boiled in oil for his pains. It is further said that the 
 making of very large kites was afterwards prohibited through- 
 out the district of Owari as a protection to these valuable 
 objects. 
 
 This castle, according to the information given me on the 
 spot, was built about two hundred and seventy years ago by 
 the seventh son of the great Shogun lyeyasu (first of the 
 Tokugawas), more than twenty Daimios contributing towards 
 its cost, as a compliment paid to the Shogun and his family.* 
 
 * The following account of the 
 buildiog of Nagoya Castle is given by 
 Mr. W. T. Dixon, in a paper read be- 
 fore the Asiatic Society of Japan: 
 “ It was built in the year 1610 a.d., 
 for Yoshinawo, the first prince of the 
 Tokugawa house in Owari, and the 
 seventh son of lyeyasu For some 
 two centuries before that date there 
 
 had been a castle of Owari, situated 
 at Kiyosu, a few miles west of Nagoya. 
 This was founded by a Daimio named 
 Shiba Takatsune, a near relative of 
 the Shogun Ashikaga, and remained 
 in the possession of his descendants 
 until the end of the sixteenth century, 
 when it was seized by Ota Nobunaga, 
 and made by that famous warrior the 
 
CHAP. XI.] NAGOYA — SHRINE OF SACRED SWOBD. 275 
 
 The main tower was designed by the general Kato Kiyomasa, 
 who, according to Mr. Griffis (‘ Mikado’s Empire ’), was a 
 very ill-conditioned fellow indeed, who wore a helmet 
 three feet high, quarrelled with his brother officers, inscribed 
 prayers on his banners, became a member of the Nicheren 
 sect, and a bloody persecutor of the Christians in the 
 sixteenth century.” He appears, however, to have been a 
 skilful architect of castles, if one may infer this from the 
 style and construction of this great tower at Nagoya, and 
 from the fact that he designed also the castle of Kumamoto, 
 in Kiushiu, which I have seen described as another of the 
 finest in Japan. He is now a deified personage, and some of 
 my Japanese friends to whom I have spoken respecting him 
 assure me that his colleague in the Korean expedition, with 
 whom he refused to act cordially, was really a most objec- 
 tionable individual ; that the so-called Christians whom Kato 
 Kiyomasa is said to have persecuted were of a bad sort ; and 
 that he is worthily worshipped as a great and good patriot, and 
 now one of the gods of Japan, by a very large number of the 
 Japanese people. It is not to he expected that I should 
 decide between these opposite views of his character in a 
 mere gossip about a tower of his design ; so I will pass on to 
 say that Nagoya Castle stands upon about four hundred acres 
 of ground ; that it is protected by two moats, with the power 
 of inundating the country at the back of it, where its defence 
 
 centre from which to keep in check 
 the neighbouring provinces. Some 
 years afterwards, Tokugawa lyeyasu, 
 having survived all his rivals, recog- 
 nised that his authority would be 
 more secure if Owari, lying as it did 
 at the junction of the two great high- 
 ways between Kiyoto and Yedo, were 
 defended by a strong castle. He 
 would thus have more command over 
 the western Daimios, some of whom 
 had not yet acknowledged his sw’ay. 
 The castle at Kiyosu was found quite 
 insufficient, on account both of its 
 limited size and of the shallowness 
 of its moats ; so he resolved to build a 
 
 new and more formidable one, and 
 fixed upon the present site at Nagoya 
 as the most advantageous for his pur- 
 pose. Several Duimios,the principal 
 of whom were Fukushima Masanoii, 
 prince of Aki, Kato Kiyomasa, prince 
 of Higo, and Kuroda Nagamasa, 
 prince of Chikuzen, were, after some 
 threatening, prevailed upon to under- 
 take the task. The materials of the 
 old fortress of Kiyosu helped to com- 
 pose the new stronghold, and it is 
 said that 200,000 men were employed, 
 who finished the work of erection in 
 a few weeks.” 
 
 T 2 
 
276 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. XI. 
 
 is obviously weak ; that it was until lately the castle of one 
 of three of the most powerful Daimios in Japan, who as 
 members of the Tycoon’s family enjoyed many important and 
 exclusive privileges, and that although part of its inclosure 
 is now used for military purposes, another part is devoted to 
 the growth of vegetables, which is probably a better use, in 
 some respects, than was ever before made of it. We ascended 
 Kato’s tower to the top floor, and obtained an extensive view 
 over the city and its suburbs, and for some miles of fruitful 
 ground around, but the atmosphere was not clear enough to 
 admit of a view of the mountains in either direction. It may 
 be interesting to mention that the plan adopted in the 
 designing of this tower was to make the area of the lowest 
 floor one thousand “ mats,” that of the next floor five 
 hundred, the others decreasing upwards by a hundred mats 
 per floor, the upper being of one hundred mats only. The 
 mat ” is a rectangle of about three feet by six feet, that 
 being the size given to the single piece of the matting in use 
 as the floor-covering throughout Japan. The sizes of rooms 
 are usually given in mats. A fine model of the great tower, 
 constructed before the tower • itself was built, and therefore 
 nearly three hundred years old, was shown to us in the 
 Shogun’s palace, and is in perfectly good condition. The 
 palace of the Tycoon, though intended for occasional occupa- 
 tion only, was of a far more costly character, both in its 
 construction and in its decorations, than that of the Mikado 
 at Kioto. The ceilings are panelled and decorated with some 
 of the most refined artists’ work that I have seen in Japan, 
 while the carved work is lavish alike in its abundance and its 
 beauty. This palace seems to furnish an illustration of the 
 accuracy of those who tell us that under the system of 
 government which the Tycoons gradually brought about the 
 Mikado, the true emperor, was kept in a state of comparative 
 weakness, meanness, and privation, while the Tycoon revelled 
 in wealth, splendour, and power. 
 
( 277 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 TO shidzuoka: the home of the tokugawas. 
 
 Early departure from Nagoya — The great Tokaido road — Monument to 
 “ the Shogun of three days ” — Okazaki, the birthplace of lyeyasu — 
 Yosbida — A famous artist — Our picturesque procession — Miraculous 
 appearance of the goddess Kwannon — A colossal statue to the goddess 
 — Fuji-yama again — A shrine of splendour — Beauty of the sea — The 
 gate of Aral — The fishers of Mayezaka — Bridge over the Tenriu, 4000 
 feet long — A windy day in the hills — Kagos^ or mountain chairs — 
 Swiss-like scenery — A scene for artists — A tunnel through a mountain 
 — Shidzuoka — Lacquer, inlaid, and bamboo work — Japanese tea-culti- 
 vation — Large exports of tea — lyeyasu’s love of literature — The last of 
 the Tycoons — A picture painted by him — An eminent litterateur — 
 Legends of the Night-crying Stone, the Sworded Pheasant, and the 
 Wishing Bell. 
 
 Our long land journey from the old capital (Kioto) to the 
 new (Tokio) was resumed on Thursday, March 13, at 7 a.m. 
 The later hours of the previous day had been devoted to 
 drenching rains outside and rest indoors, but the saving 
 of time was a matter of so much importance to me, and the 
 delays occasioned by my illness were tending to so much 
 congestion of duties, if I may so speak, in both Japan and 
 England, that we decided to start at an early hour next 
 morning, rain or sun, showers or torrents. Happily the 
 morning broke fine, with little or no sunshine, but with a 
 dry atmosphere, the rain wholly gone. Early as it was, the 
 vice-governor was kindly there to take leave of us, and, with 
 many little arrangements for enabling a rheumatic individual 
 of a certain age to make a journey of forty-five miles in a 
 hand-carriage without too much distress, off we went. All 
 the shops and places of business appeared to be open and in 
 operation as we rattled through Nagoya and Miya, although 
 
278 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. XII. 
 
 the hour was so early. There were several very pretty 
 gateways in Miya which I should have been glad to have 
 sketched had time allowed, hut a passing glance was all we 
 could devote to them. The shrines of Atsuta, with their 
 mystic sword, their towering trees, their crowded light- 
 pillars and simple ceremonies, were soon passed and left 
 behind, and behind us likewise loomed up the great Hon- 
 ganji temple, and beyond, the mountains — mountain-shrines, 
 shall we call them ? — hung with curtain-screens like Atsuta, 
 but in this case the screens were blue, and wrought of 
 valley mist and morning light. Numerous temples, and 
 still more numerous shrines much simpler than temjdes, 
 were passed during the day, and at many of them, here as 
 elsewhere, the stone basins in front of them for the washing 
 of the hands received their water from spouting bronze 
 dragons of considerable size and much artistic merit. 
 
 Soon after leaving Miya we were again upon the great 
 Tokaido road, which throughout the day, as on some former 
 days, was a fine, smooth, well-kept road between the towns 
 and the villages, hut was much neglected where it passed 
 through them— a point which would seepi to require some 
 attention on the part of both the central and local governments. 
 The road traversed by bridges several large rivers, the beds of 
 which were raised above the neighbouring land-level by as 
 much as 10 feet. After a short halt at the town of Narumi, 
 where cotton-sjiinning is carried on, and transit through 
 another in which dyeing is successfully practised, we passed 
 through the famous battle-field in which the great Shogun of 
 three days, so to call him, Yoshimoto, engaged the redoubtable 
 Nohunaga in the sixteenth century, and was defeated by 
 him and killed.* A monument to his (Yoshimoto’s) memory 
 was passed in a field on our right — a simple column of stone, 
 surrounded by a railing of wood. Luncheon was taken at 
 the town of Okazaki, the birthplace of lyeyasu, at which are 
 the great granite quarries from which the capital, Tokio, 
 and many other places, are provided with that stone ; the 
 
 * See vol. i. p. 185. 
 
CHAP. XII.] THE HOME OF THE TOKUOAWAS. 
 
 279 
 
 nearness of Okazaki to the bay of Owari and its branches 
 greatly facilitating the supply of this stone to towns and 
 cities near the coast. The remainder of the day’s journey 
 was completed at four o’clock in the apparently thriving 
 town of Yoshida, which is situated on a branch of the great 
 river Tenriu, which finds its way into the sea further east- 
 ward. This town does a considerable trade in timber, 
 most of the roof-rafters for Tokio going hence. After the 
 drive of forty-five miles a stroll in the town to the river bank 
 and flower garden was a pleasant change. After dinner a 
 gentleman, Mr. Watanahe Shoka, of great local fame as an 
 artist, and considered by some of our party as one of the 
 first now living in Japan, did us the honour of dropping in 
 and helping to pass a wet evening pleasantly by knocking 
 off a few large rough sketches of birds, each drawing being 
 executed in times varying from five to ten minutes only. 
 In this pleasing pastime he was joined by Mr. Hinoke, from 
 Nagoya, who had accompanied us thus far, and who, like his 
 friend just mentioned, possesses wonderful skill in producing 
 fine effects with a few daubs and touches of the brush. I 
 observed that in putting in trees and certain parts of birds 
 Mr. Watanahe Shoka frequently employed two brushes simul- 
 taneously. I have seen a good deal of rapid sketching and 
 drawing at different times, hut with the exception of my 
 friend Chevalier de Martino, the painter of great naval 
 pictures, who is surprisingly skilled in the swift use of the 
 ink-brush, I know no one who approaches Mr. Watanahe 
 Shoka. 
 
 Early on Friday the 14th of March, after another night 
 of rain, we pursued our journey eastward, in an atmosphere of 
 delightful freshness, in a north-western breeze of consider- 
 able force, and in sunshine that made the morning perfect. 
 We were soon skirting on our left ranges of wooded hills, 
 rolling away to mountains in the distance. I was informed 
 that on one of the finest and most sheer and lofty of these 
 high wooded hills there was a temple. I had chosen a 
 position in the procession of jinrihi-shas well to the rear, 
 so that I had before me the shifting picture of more than a 
 
280 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. XII. 
 
 dozen of these curious little carriages, with double that 
 number of half-nude men trotting them along at a rate of 
 six to seven miles an hour, their red and blue colours dancing 
 with their movements, and little flags surmounted with 
 bunches of bright heather, or something like it, waving 
 at the side of each carriage. Among the villages passed 
 through was one named Surazaga, concerning which we were 
 told a little story to this effect. On a certain occasion the 
 prince of Bizen, travelling on the Tokaido, stayed to sleep 
 in this village. During his slumher a vision appeared to 
 him — no other than that of the goddess Kwannon herself, 
 in the guise of a priest, who woke him and told him to 
 escape for his life, as the village would be flooded during 
 the night. He accordingly arose and made his way in all 
 haste to a neighbouring hill called Siomizaka (“ the Height 
 with a View of the Sea ”), and sure enough the flood came, 
 the village was inundated, and many of the inhabitants were 
 drowned. This is the whole of the story as I heard it, hut 
 as it appeared to have been recounted to my informant by 
 one of the jlnrihi-sha men it may have been hut imperfectly 
 told. Under other circumstances one might have been 
 tempted to consider the prince of Bizen a very selfish sort 
 of personage to leave the poor villagers to perish, he himself 
 meanwhile escaping to a high hill ; and having seen a short 
 time afterwards how very high the hill is, one might further 
 have inferred that Prince Bizen must have been very frightened 
 indeed to have gone up so far. One might also have observed 
 that the selfishness of the prince was matched by the negli- 
 gence of the goddess, who appears to have cared only for the 
 prince, and to have forgotten all about the people, who lost 
 their lives for want of a warning similar to his. Further, 
 how came the goddess to appear as a priest ? If she wished 
 to he taken for a priest, why was not her disguise effectual ? 
 If she intended to allow herself to he known, why did she 
 assume the appearance of a priest? One might even ask 
 whether, after all, it was not really a priest, and no goddess, 
 who gave the warning, and whether the name of Kwannon 
 was not taken in vain by the individual, whoever he was, 
 
CHAP. XII.] THE HOME OF THE TOKUOAWAS. 
 
 281 
 
 who asserted that she had anything to do with the matter. 
 But it is possible that all these seeming weaknesses are only 
 in the story as it reached me, and that the priest was really 
 the goddess, satisfactory evidence establishing the identi- 
 fication. The only difficulty remaining in that case would 
 be the neglect of the poor inhabitants by the goddess, but 
 that difficulty is as old as miraculous appearances themselves, 
 the wonder always being in such cases that the gods and the 
 goddesses and the virgins and the angels and the saints who 
 from time to time come on earth to give private warnings to 
 individuals should be so very, very callous as to those whom 
 they do not warn, and who would be as grateful, if they 
 could afford it, as the prince of Bizen himself. And grateful 
 indeed he was, for when we came to Siomizaka, there, on the 
 high cluster of granite rocks, several hundred feet above us, 
 and on a summit to which it would be difficult to lift even a 
 living and breathing life-size goddess, was a large bronze 
 statue of Kwannon 13 feet high, gazing over land and 
 over the sea, which we know by the name to be within her 
 view, though we could not see it, and apparently not a 
 little proud of her elevation — proud in the very presence of 
 the sun-goddess herself, who, indeed, did not disdain to 
 adorn her brazen brow with a touch of her own bright light. 
 
 Leaving the goddess to her lofty meditations, we rolled on 
 through a fine country, very wild, and wooded and moun- 
 tainous on our left, and very level, and cultivated and glisten- 
 ing with rice-swamps on our right. The road next led us uj) 
 a succession of long hills, in ascending which I gladly availed 
 myself of the opportunity thus afforded for a delightful 
 morning walk. Presently we came out for a short time upon 
 a comparatively open road, and a shrill voice exclaimed, 
 ‘‘ Fuji-yama ! ” and there indeed, somewhat away on our left 
 (broad on our port bow, as a sailor would put it), was the 
 superb mountain which we had not seen for five weeks, and 
 which, as it now stood up, nearly ninety miles off, above the 
 nearer and darker mountains — stood up, whiter with snow 
 than if wrought of silver, purer than the very sky into 
 which it towered, and more perfect in form than any mortal 
 
282 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. XII. 
 
 hands could model — was a shrine of splendour worthy of the 
 true God, and a consecration to the land which is so fortunate 
 as to form its pedestal. It was a native gentleman who saw 
 it first ; not a poet, not an artist, not a seer of any sort ; but 
 he was a man, and a Japanese, and he clapped his hands and 
 shouted with delight, and with the joy of seeing once again 
 the sacred mountain, and of turning the eyes of us strangers 
 towards it. 
 
 While we gazed with wonder and almost with worship upon 
 this “most awful Form,” another voice shouted “The sea !” and 
 there on our right lay before us, and low beneath us, and rolling 
 far away over the horizon’s arc, the living liquid splendour of 
 the sea indeed. “ Isn’t it just like gauze ! ” shouted another 
 of the party from a distance ; and, although one feels some 
 reluctance to associate with the ocean the name of so frail a 
 thing as gauze, yet there was so soft and semi-transparent 
 and delicate a look about the sea on this occasion, viewed 
 from our height, that one felt the verisimilitude of the 
 metaphor. I never before saw the sea so utterly beautiful. 
 I have often hung above its splendour ; often listened to its 
 alluring music on the shore, and its power of fioating great 
 ships with truth and certainty has always had a certain 
 charm for me — a charm at which those may laugh who are 
 insensible to that viewless grace which lurks in all the 
 ways, and paths of science. On the way out to Japan, on 
 the very part of the sea upon which we were now looking 
 down, we passed some hours in admiring the intense colour 
 of the sea-deeps and the pure whiteness of the surface as it 
 was torn into fragments by the gale ; hut on this sun-bright 
 morning, on which the breeze seemed saturate with sun, and 
 the sun blown through with breeze, both sun and breeze 
 seemed to mix with the sea, until the whole surface foamed 
 with light and life. 
 
 We now dipped down from the height, and after a short 
 run entered the village of Arai, which is — or rather was, 
 for the Tokaido has now taken another and newer route 
 near this place, and the gate is removed— one of the gates of 
 the Tokaido, giving upon an inlet of the sea over which 
 
CHAP. XII.] THE HOME OF THE TOKUOAWAS. 
 
 283 
 
 passengers have to be ferried. Oiir party at once embarked 
 in several boats which were waiting for us, and a strong 
 stern breeze drove us quickly over the two or three miles of 
 shallow water to the village of Mayezaka, in the province of 
 Totomi. Here we re-entered oViX jinrihi-slias and started for 
 our luncheon-place, Hamamatsu. The road through Maye- 
 zaka, and for a few miles beyond— no longer a recognised 
 portion of the Tokaido — is a bad, sandy road, and we moved 
 over it, or rather through its sandy ruts, hut slowly, thus 
 giving ourselves ample time to observe the large extent to 
 which the small fish that abound in the neighbouring sea 
 with its bays are caught and dried in the sun to serve as 
 manure. A large number of the inhabitants of Mayezaka and 
 the adjacent villages appear to he employed mainly in this 
 trade. As we passed under the hills we observed a number 
 of fishermen seated upon them, watching the sea for the fish- 
 shoals which they first descry from these heights, and then 
 descend and capture. 
 
 Before reaching Hamamatsu w^e pass the broad river of 
 Tenriu (Tenriugawa) by the longest bridge in Japan, nearly 
 four thousand feet in length. This river is navigable in its main 
 stream for one hundred and twenty miles from the sea, which 
 but few rivers of Japan are, owing to the narrowness of the 
 country, and the nearness of the mountains to the sea in very 
 many cases. Hamamatsu has some excellent native hotels, in 
 one of which, kept in admirable order, we took luncheon with 
 an avidity doubtless due in part to the sea-air, of which we had 
 breathed pretty freely in the course of the morning. The 
 breeze of the morning increased through the day, and we might 
 have sailed for the remainder of it in our jinrild-shas, had they 
 been supplied with masts and canvas. At length we entered 
 Kakegawa in a gale of wind, which found its way pretty freely 
 into our chambers, without the necessity of exercising much 
 ingenuity in getting there. The hotel, though the best in 
 the town — better having lately been destroyed by fire — is 
 an old one, and without the shelter of numerous screens and 
 rugs I feared my Yokkaichi pains and experiences might have 
 been renewed. Throughout the evening and night the house 
 
284 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. XII. 
 
 shook with the wind almost incessantly, as if being nursed 
 by an attentive earthquake. 
 
 The next day’s journey lay chiefly over hills and river-beds, 
 with occasional transits over lovely valleys. The strong 
 north-westerly wind still swept down from the chill mountain 
 heights, occasionally developing into brief gales of considerable 
 force, threatening to sweep us from the hills. With more 
 force still they swept the bridges over the torrent-beds of he 
 Oigawa and the Ahegawa, on the farther or left bank of which 
 stands the city of Shidzuoka, which was to be our resting- 
 place for the night. • In other respects the day was fine and 
 bright. After driving a few miles, in our usual hand-carriages 
 (or Pull-man cars, as they are jocosely called), we reached 
 Missaka, where we alighted to cross the hills for four or five 
 miles, either in hagos or on foot, the road, although practi- 
 cable for jinrihi-shas, being in large part so very steep and 
 rough that no one would from choice be jolted up and down 
 it. Those who cannot walk are taken in hagos, which are 
 little carriages, either open or closed, carried upon the 
 shoulders of men. There were several of them in readiness 
 for our party, but none into which it appeared at all possible 
 for me to squeeze or be squeezed ; and I should have been 
 among the most unreasonable and ungrateful of men, I 
 thought, if I preferred such a mode of conveyance, being as 
 far recovered as I was, to a fine mountain walk of a few miles. 
 
 And a fine walk indeed we had, through Swiss-like scenery, 
 with occasional views over large extents of lowlands, now and 
 then glimpses of the distant sea, and suddenly, after passing 
 the first summit, such a full-fronted view of Fuji-yama as 
 would have well repaid a far more laborious climb. Later on, 
 after passing across a valley and ascending a second hill, we 
 came upon another and still more beautiful view of the sacred 
 mountain, the highest in Japan, which rises 13,000 feet clear 
 away from the sea. We could not, however, see the base 
 from our position, but we saw what was perhaps better as an 
 object of beauty. Below its snow-covered summit and sides, 
 the lower and darker part of the mountain appeared of the 
 self-same blue as the sky above, so that the mountain of snow 
 
CHAP. XII.] THE HOME OF THE T0KUGAWA8. 
 
 285 
 
 seemed poised in heaven — perhaps suspended there after the 
 fashion in which one of our poets has imagined the world 
 to be — 
 
 “Hung by gold chains about the feet of God.” 
 
 Below Fuji were lower ranges of mountains, darkly con- 
 trasting with it ; then, nearer, came low wooded hills ; 
 nearer still, the broad, rough, stony bed of the Oigawa, with 
 swift streams chasing down it, and sand-storms driving over 
 it ; and nearer still a village, and tea-plantations, and the 
 Tokaido sweeping down with its wild horderings of old and 
 twisted trees. On all the sun shone brightly, and over all the 
 gale blew swiftly, so that we had before us such a scene as 
 artists well might paint and poets edit. Dipping down to 
 the village below, Kanaya, where other jinrihi-sh as awaited 
 us, we started in them for Fusieda. Our way lay first across 
 the Oigawa, and through the driving sand-storms which we 
 had enjoyed as part of a picture, hut which were anything 
 but charming as atmospheres to be driven through We 
 were soon beyond them, however, and ere long comfortably 
 engaged in ascertaining the merits of a Fusieda luncheon in 
 a very good native inn or hotel. This matter sufficiently 
 determined to the satisfaction of all, we were speedily en 
 route again, and instead of skirting the hills to the south- 
 ward, as I expected, turned towards the hills in front. After 
 passing through a village at their base, and racing down a 
 valley between them, we ascended a winding or alternating 
 roadway, which terminated at the entrance of a tunnel 
 through the mountain. This tunnel, much resembling that 
 of Pozzuoli, near Naples, and lighted, like it, with lamps at 
 intervals, was about a third of a mile in length. It termi- 
 nated in a beautiful valley, down which the road plunged, 
 and up which— as up the steep roads of the morning, by- 
 the-hye — several hagos were being borne, the travellers 
 usually walking to spare the carrying ninsolcus, as this class 
 of labourers and jinrihi-sha men are called. After a few 
 miles of further travelling we saw before us the roofs of 
 a large town, and between them and us the bed of another 
 
286 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. XII. 
 
 large river, which I rightly took to be the Ahegawa, the 
 town or city beyond being the terminus of our day’s run, 
 Shidzuoka.* 
 
 Here we were cordially received at an excellent native 
 hotel, by the governor of the large district or Ken which 
 takes its name from this place, and also by the vice-governor 
 or chief secretary, who indeed had already received us on our 
 entrance into the Ken earlier in the day, and had pushed on 
 before us to welcome us in the city. The kindness of these 
 gentlemen deserves more than a passing tribute here, for in 
 addition to their welcome to the place, they entertained us 
 at a private banquet in the evening, and made us valuable 
 presents of specimen productions of the district, including 
 lacquer work, inlaid work, articles of delicacy and beauty made 
 of the bamboo cane, teas as prepared for both the home and 
 the European markets, etc. They also had a large quantity 
 of the lacquer, inlaid, and bamboo work of the district placed 
 for our inspection in the hotel. While looking in an upper 
 room at some of these very pretty productions of Shidzuoka, 
 the selling prices'of which I found on inquiry to he singularly, 
 quite wonderfully, low, a door was slid open, just after sun- 
 set, and disclosed a superb view of Fuji-yama, on which the 
 light lingered, and to which it clung, certainly with love- 
 liness, apparently with love. I do not wonder that in 
 these parts of Japan this wondrous, this sublime, object is 
 impressed, more or less imperfectly, upon almost every 
 article to which the arts are applied — and in Japan what is 
 there to which art is not applied ? After dinner we tried 
 the Shidzuoka tea as prepared for the European, or, more 
 correctly speaking, for the American, market, and found it 
 excellent. The European taste is somewhat different, as we 
 know, hut this also is now being provided for. The export 
 of tea from Shidzuoka Ken amounts in value to £200,000, 
 and in one year, when tea was scarce, the export reached 
 two and a half times that amount. It is hoped by the 
 authorities that it will greatly increase, the cultivation of 
 
 Formerly Fucliiu, and known also as Sumpu. 
 
CHAP. XII.] THE HOME OF THE TOKUGAWAS. 
 
 287 
 
 the tea-plant in this Ken being developed with great care 
 and energy, as was apparent thronghont the day’s journey. 
 
 This town is the most notable of all in relation to the 
 great Tokugawa family, which gave to Japan its Shoguns 
 and Tycoons from the year 1603 down to 1868, when the 
 system of government by a Shogun was brought to an end. 
 The first of the Tokugawa Shoguns, lyeyasu, finally took up 
 his residence in Shidzuoka after his great victory over his 
 rivals at Sekigahara, near Lake Biwa — a victory which 
 determined, as we saw, the government and fate of Japan 
 from the beginning of the seventeenth century onwards to 
 our own day. Here at Shidzuoka, then known as Sumpu, 
 lyeyasu had long before built himself a great castle, and 
 resided in it. He now returned to it, and left it again only 
 for two short intervals, to suppress rebellious attempts. Here 
 he devoted himself mainly to literature, collecting and pre- 
 serving so many old manuscripts, and otherwise so exerting, 
 himself that it is said to he largely due to him that much of 
 the ancient Japanese literature is now in existence."^ 
 
 * “ The Sumpki quoted by Hirata 
 mentions a large number of works 
 brought to lyeyasu from various parts 
 of the country, some from Kioto and 
 others from Kamakura, and a few 
 from the monastery of Minobu San, in 
 Kosliiu. Before his death he gave 
 directions that the library of Japanese 
 and Chinese books wliich he had 
 formed at Sumpu should be divided 
 between his eighth son, the prince of 
 Owari, and his ninth son, the prince 
 of Kiushiu. The former received tlie 
 greater part of the Japanese books, 
 the latter the Chinese books. Under 
 the directions of the prince of Owari 
 were composed the ‘ Jingihoten ’ and 
 ‘Kuijiu Nihongi.’ One of lyeyasu’s 
 grandsons, the famous second prince 
 of Mito (1622-1700), known variously 
 as Mito no Komon Sama and Mito 
 no Giko (Mitsukini was his nanori), 
 also collected a vast library by pur- 
 chasing old books from Shinto and 
 
 Buddhist temples, and from the 
 people. With the aid of a number of 
 scholars, amongst whom tradition says 
 were several learned Chinese who had 
 fled to Japan to escape the tyranny 
 of tlie Manchu conquerors, he com- 
 posed the ‘ Daini-honshi,’ or History 
 of Great Japan, in two hundred and 
 forty books. This book is the standard 
 history of Japan to this day, and all 
 subsequent writers on the subject 
 have taken it as their guide. He 
 also compiled a work on the cere- 
 monials of the imperial court, consist- 
 ing of more than five hundred volumes, 
 which the Mikado condescended to 
 give the title of Reigi riuten. To 
 defray the cost of producing these 
 two magnificent works, the prince of 
 Mito set aside at least 30,000 holcu 
 of rice per annum (some accounts say 
 50,000, others 7 0,000).” — Ernest Satow, 
 in ‘ Transactions ’ of Asiatic Society 
 of Japan. — The hohu is a little less 
 
288 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. XII, 
 
 'As the first, so the last of the Tokngawa Tycoons has made 
 Shidzuoka his place of residence, for here now resides the de- 
 throned Tycoon, who lives in great privacy and simplicity. 
 He sees hut few people, frankly acknowledging that the 
 reassertion of the Mikado’s authority is just, and not 
 desiring to give any countenance to a contrary feeling. He 
 devotes himself mainly to field-sports, but as I saw in the 
 house of one of the ministers of state in Tokio a very pretty 
 drawing from his (the ex-Tycoon’s) hand, I cannot doubt 
 that he indulges himself likewise in the exercise of the 
 artist’s skill. As some compensation for their loss of em- 
 ployment, the Mikado’s government presented a large tract 
 of land in this district to the former personal attendants and 
 servants of the Tycoon, much of which is cultivated under a 
 system of partnership, the tea-plant for which the soil is 
 peculiarly favourable being the principal thing grown here. 
 
 The literary reminiscences suggested by a visit to Shidzu- 
 oka are not limited to the doings of the Tokugawas, and I 
 must mention the circumstance that it was to this city that 
 the learned Hirata Atsutane secretly retired in the year 1812 
 to compose his great work, the ‘ Koshi-seihun,’ which has 
 previously been quoted. After offering up a prayer to all 
 the gods for their aid, he is said to have set to work on the 
 fifth of the month, and to have completed it by the end of it. 
 “As a proof of his remarkable memory,” says Mr. Satow, 
 “ it is said that he composed the three volumes of the text 
 and several volumes of the prolegomena, entitled ‘ Koshi-cho,’ 
 without making a single reference to the works from which 
 his materials were drawn. The ‘ Koshi-seihun ’ was appa- 
 rently intended to have been brought far down into what is 
 usually called the historical period, but the part which 
 relates to the divine age is all that has at present appeared.” 
 
 On our way over the mountains to-day we picked up a few 
 matters of fact which are worth mention here. By the side 
 
 than five imperial bushels, and ten voted the produce of at least 3000 
 
 holiu per acre is given as a good acres of rice-land to these literary 
 
 average production from the rice- enterprises, 
 lands. The prince of Mi to thus de- 
 
CHAP. XII.] THE HOME OF THE TOKUOAWAS. 
 
 289 
 
 of one of the tea-houses, near the summit of the hill rising 
 from Missaka, was a large rounded stone of remarkable form, 
 which is known as the “night-crying stone.” The story 
 connected with it, as told to me here at Shidzuoka, is as 
 follows : — 
 
 More than two thousand years ago (in the time of the 
 emperor Kogen, who reigned from 214 to 158 b.c., and died 
 at the good old age of 116), a woman who was — well, who 
 was a thorough wife, and whose husband had been away 
 but a few months, went to seek him in the region of what 
 is now the modern capital of the country. There met her, or 
 overtook her, on the way, one of those two-sworded gentle- 
 men the samurai, who with all their advantages were not 
 always as gentle or as virtuous as they might have been, 
 as we shall presently see. This one fell in love with his 
 fellow-traveller, and employed all his arts, both on the road 
 and at the inn at which he took care they both should stay, 
 to establish that which some in our own country are at 
 present sighing for — a condition of “reciprocity.” Failing 
 in this object, he appears to have lost his temper, and with 
 it what he called his love, for he drew his sword and 
 actually slew the poor woman on the spot. A month later 
 and she would have been nursing an infant at home ; but as 
 it was, to keep the child alive required the aid of superior 
 power. That, fortunately, was not wanting, and the goddess 
 Kwannon had everything done that was necessary, even to 
 the naming of the child, Otahachi, and to having it brought 
 up upon a sort of “ toffee ” made from rice. That the crime 
 might not be kept secret, the goddess also caused the stone 
 previously mentioned to cry out, and a pine-tree standing 
 near to cry out likewise. When young Otahachi grew up 
 he went to a sword-grinder’s, a Mr. Gengero’s, to learn his 
 art, and while there one day, who should go in to have 
 his sword sharpened but the wicked samurai who slew his 
 mother ! Gengero, on looking at the sword, pronounced it, 
 although of excellent quality originally, so worn and with so 
 little steel left in it as to be nearly useless. This led to a 
 conversation which convinced Otahachi, who overheard it, 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 u 
 
290 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. XII. 
 
 that the samurai was the very man on whom he desired to 
 revenge his mother’s death, and the spirited young fellow 
 at once challenged him to mortal combat. Ashamed as a 
 samurai to refuse, though desiring to escape (these swash- 
 buckler gentry who cut and slash at the weak always do 
 desire to escape when a strongish young fellow tackles 
 them !), he accepted the challenge, fought and fell, and thus 
 was the poor mother avenged by Kwannon’s well-nourished 
 l^rotege. And what is the moral ? Well, the great moral, 
 which tells so much for virtue, is obvious ; and another is 
 that the Japanese rice- toffee is remarkably good food for 
 children, and can be purchased even to this day at the tea- 
 house of the “ night-crying stone,” and also at many another 
 tea-house up and down this Missaka mountain, and I dare say 
 at a great many places besides. I tried a little of it myself, 
 but I was so sure that my illustrious physician. Sir Henry 
 Thompson, would not consider it good for me that I scarce 
 did more than taste it. For two thousand years and more, 
 however, it has helped to nourish Japanese babes, and 
 plumper children I never desire to see. 
 
 Another of these matter-of-fact stories carries us back 
 still earlier, even to the time of the emperor Koan, who 
 reigned from 392 to 291 b.c., and died at the very ripe age 
 of 137. It tells of a wondrous pheasant which had wings 
 and a tail formed of swords, and was therefore far more 
 terrible, let it be understood, than any porcupine with mere 
 spears, however large. Worse a great deal than the cruel 
 samurai of the last story, this ferocious bird used to descend 
 upon the neighbouring village of Koya-nakayama, carry off 
 people, slay and eat them. The villagers not unnaturally 
 got so worried by these cruel depredations that they petitioned 
 the Mikado Koan to have the sworded pheasant hunted and 
 killed, and his majesty sent down a certain Prince Yashimasa 
 to effect this. The bird was so difficult to find, however, 
 and so artful in its devices for evading Yashimasa, sometimes 
 appearing as a woman mixing up with the villagers, sometimes 
 taking the form of a tree, and sometimes disappearing alto- 
 gether, that the prince was long detained in the house of Atago 
 
CHAP. XII.] TEE HOME OF THE TOKUQA WAS. 
 
 291 
 
 Slioji, a local gentleman, wliose guest he had become. So 
 long was he detained that he fell in love with a young girl 
 named Sliiragika, who happened to he at the same time an 
 emissary of the goddess Kwannon and a daughter of Atago 
 Shoji, and who returned the love of Yashimasa with warmth 
 and loyalty. At last Yashimasa found the nest of the 
 pheasant on the top of a neighbouring hill, and took his 
 precautions for bagging it by arranging a bamboo screen 
 with a hole to see through, and sitting behind it armed with 
 a bow and arrows till the pheasant came. When it came 
 there was no mistaking it, with its gleaming steel wings and 
 its eyes which sparkled like stars, and Yashimasa at once 
 brought it to the ground with an arrow through its cruel 
 heart. He now had to return to the Mikado to report his 
 success, and perforce left Shiragika behind, she deeming 
 herself as a village girl unfit to accompany a prince to 
 court, and sure to discredit him if she did so. Unfortunately, 
 however, there was one result of their mutual love which 
 could not be concealed for long, and which she was ashamed 
 to have known, and poor Shiragika therefore thought it 
 better that she should perish. She accordingly loaded her 
 dress with stones and dropped into a deep part of the river 
 off the rocks between Kame and Sakura, which are called to 
 this day (I do not see why) the Chrysanthemum and Cherry- 
 blossom Kocks. When Yashimasa got old and feeble he left 
 the court and went and spent his last days at the spot, and 
 died in the adjacent village of Kikugawa. 
 
 A further story was connected with the above, inasmuch 
 as it concerned a well which the ghost of the sword-pheasant 
 troubled and caused to boil and foam. The well was on the 
 top of Mount Mokanza, and the name of it was Awagadaky. 
 Notwithstanding that it was a well on the top of a mountain, 
 it had an underground connection with the sea, for the 
 water in it rose and fell with the tide. By the foaming of 
 the well a sort of crust was formed, which got converted 
 into a bell — one of three very famous bells in Japan, those 
 of Mij and Anoye being the others. All these bells were 
 considered gifts of the sea-god. This Awagadaky bell had a 
 
 u 2 
 
292 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. XII. 
 
 very peculiar property, for if you struck it you would obtain 
 whatever you desired at the time ; but the fulfilment of your 
 wish was ultimately followed by a terrible penalty, for you 
 were sent to the worst of all places, which shall be name- 
 less here, though it is as easy to spell as “ bell,” and you 
 there found part of the established tortures to be that of 
 satisfying innumerable leeches, food and other things thrown 
 into the well curiously enough turning into leeches. At the 
 foot of the mountain, in the village of Amatzuba, lived a 
 man, Narinobel by name, who appears to have camped out on 
 the mountain near the well’s mouth for some reason of his own, 
 and while there a man intruded upon him and thus offended 
 him. On being angrily questioned on the subject, the man 
 informed Mr. Narinobel that he was son and heir-apparent of 
 the county samurai house of Ozawahiogo, and therefore had 
 the right to enter uninvited. He at once left, however, and 
 cherished the desire to revenge himself on Narinobel for his 
 insolence. He decided, against the will of his father, whom 
 he consulted on the point, to strike the bell and thus obtain 
 ample means for taking his revenge in his own way. To 
 prevent this his father went up the mountain in the night 
 and buried the bell out of the son’s way, and buried it so 
 effectually that it has never since been found. The son was 
 extremely angry to find it gone, and searched a great 
 deal for it, even going to the length of burning down 
 a temple in the hope of finding it among the ashes. A 
 ferocious wind thereupon sprang up, and in it came one of 
 the Gongen gods (deified Japanese celebrities), and either 
 wind or god, or both together, hurled the heir of Ozawahiogo 
 down a precipice, and thus brought his brief career to an 
 end. “ Mark,” says the native narrative, “ the power of 
 God,” and the reverent reader will not fail to do so. 
 
 With these very ancient stories I may fitly conclude the 
 record of an evening at Shidzuoka, where they were written 
 down as my interpreters roughly translated them from 
 papers picked up on our mountain-walk during the day. 
 
c 293 ) 
 
 CHAPTEE XIII. 
 
 FUJI-YAMA AND THE HAKONE MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Height, solitude, and solemnity of the sacred mountain — A dormant rather 
 than an extinct volcano — Legend of its origin — Cultivation of its slopes 
 — Pilgrimages to its summit — Its splendid appearance — Seikenji, or 
 “Clear View Temple” — Temp.e treasures — The Mikado’s gifts of gold 
 cups — Saruga Bay — Fish-drying — Production of salt — Arrival at 
 Mishima — The great Shinto temple — Chief priest Mayada — More 
 treasures — A vase of the god-period — “ God’s food ” — The hago of 
 Mishima’s god — Mountain-^ayos — Discomfort of the kago to Euro- 
 peans — “Asleep at the wrong end ” — Splendid scenery of the Hakone 
 mountains — Views of the Idzu hills — The Japanese nightingale — 
 Koadside scenes — Fuji disappears in the mist — Police escorts of the 
 ministers — Dangerous effects of foreign pressure — Hakone lake — 
 Kaempfer’s description — Hakone gate in the old. days — Mountain and 
 forest beauty — Asleep in a hago — The Sea of Sagami — The baths of 
 Yumoto — A native hotel — Mixed bathing — “ Honi soit qui mal y pense !” 
 — Our final day on the Tokaido — Speed of the jinriki-sha men — 
 Neglected state of the great high-road — Second arrival in Tokio — A 
 hearty welcome. 
 
 As we have now come in full view of the great sacred moun- 
 tain, and shall have it almost continually before us for a day 
 or two to come, this appears to he a proper time and place 
 to say a little more about it. And I would first observe that 
 I see no reason for suggesting any explanations derived from 
 profound considerations either for its being treated as a 
 sacred mountain, or for its predominance in the works of 
 artists of all kinds. The great height, solitude, and solemn 
 beauty of the mountain would have had these results in any 
 country in the world in the early stages of its life, and all 
 these qualities would he quite certain to make even a deeper 
 impression upon the life and thought and sentiment of such 
 a people as the Japanese than upon those of most nations. 
 
294 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. XIII. 
 
 It has been said that there are on the summit of Fuji eight 
 peaks, which have been likened to the eight petals of the 
 sacred lotus-flower, and that this may have had some influence 
 in confirming the popular belief in the sacredness of the 
 mountain ; and this may be true, for people will be influenced 
 by almost any kind of consideration in the way of confirming 
 themselves in beliefs already formed. But the best evidence 
 of the sacred character of Fuji is to he found, I think, in the 
 fact that every person who speaks or writes about it seems 
 naturally to rise more or less into a reverent state of feeling 
 as he does so. It has a real, a strong, and a solemnising 
 influence on all who behold it. Even when it is viewed 
 from beyond other mountains, its sovereign character is very 
 striking; and when it is seen springing with one tremendous 
 and sublime flight from sea to sky, it is of more sovereign 
 character still. I am sorry to have to admit that there are 
 not many places on the Tokaido from which this single 
 unbroken curve of Fuji can he seen. He has a hump — not 
 a very large or ungraceful one fortunately — upon his south- 
 eastern side, known as Hoyei-san, which was thrown up at 
 his last eruption in the year 1707, after a terrible fashion. 
 A tremendous earthquake shook even distant provinces, and 
 from the side of Fuji, about three thousand feet from the 
 top, there hurst out such masses of ashes that portions of 
 them were carried a hundred miles away. The noise of the 
 eruption was heard in Yedo, more than seventy miles away. 
 
 Mr. Brunton, in his large map of Japan, which I have 
 found so very useful,* gives the height of Fuji-yama as 
 13,000 feet, and describes it as an extinct volcano. Mr. D. 
 H. Marshall, M.A., however, in his ‘ Notes on some of the 
 Volcanic Mountains in Japan,’ read at the Asiatic Society,! 
 gives the height as 12,365 feet — from a very careful deter- 
 mination with an omnimeter by Mr. E. Stewart, of the Govern- 
 
 * I have a copy of this map, but as a folding copy, which was so very 
 it is mounted on a roller I did not useful. 
 
 take it to Japan. Mr. McRitchie, f In what follows I propose to 
 the accomi)lished engineer of the make a free use of the information 
 imperial Japanese lighthouse depart- given in this interesting paper, which 
 ment, was kind enough to lend me was read as recently as 1878. 
 
CHAP. XIII.] FUJI- YAM A — THE HAKONE MOUNTAINS. 295 
 
 ment Survey Department — and says that it is erroneous to 
 speak of it as extinct. “ It has been dormant for not more 
 than one hundred and seventy years, hut the world-known 
 Vesuvius itself is known to have been dormant for periods 
 comparable with this, e.g., prior to 79 a.d., between 79. and 
 203, and between 203 and 472. Again, Scrope writes that 
 during the quiescent interval between the eruptions of 1137 
 and 1306 the whole surface of Vesuvius was in cultivation, 
 and pools of water and chestnut-groves occupied the sides and 
 bottom of the crater, as is at present the case with so many 
 of the extinct craters, of Etna, Auvergne, etc. Fuji is 
 therefore better called a dormant volcano.” Mr. J. Eymer 
 Jones descended into the crater, and found it to he 
 500 feet deep. As to the origin of Fuji, some native 
 chroniclers claim for it even a less age than the present 
 reigning dynasty, for whereas they allege that Jimmu-Tenno, 
 the founder of the present Mikado’s family, began to reign 
 660 years before Christ, they state that Fuji-yama was only 
 created 285-6 years before Christ, Fuji being elevated and 
 the bed of Lake Biwa being sunk both in one night. We 
 are not, however, hound in any way to believe this, and 
 modern investigators do not accept it. It appears to have 
 been a pretty active volcano from the eighth to the eleventh 
 century (a.d.). In the Nilionki it is written that in 799 the 
 summit of Fuji burnt and emitted showers of ashes with 
 thundering noises ; the waters of the rivers at its base 
 became red, and at night brilliant flames were seen. Again, 
 in the San-sai-dzuye it is recorded that in 864 the flames rose 
 from the summit of Fuji to a great height ; there were 
 frequent earthquakes, and the sea for a distance of more 
 than seventy miles along the shore receded five miles, large 
 quantities of fish perishing. Fuji is cultivated to a height 
 of from one to two thousand feet ; above this is a belt of 
 Avhat has been called “ prairie ground,” and above this again 
 is “ a vast belt of forest which encircles the mountain for 
 half its height.” In this forest there is a great variety of 
 trees, “ including coniferous trees of various kinds — crypto- 
 nierias, pines, firs, etc., chestnut, elm, dzusa, a tree from 
 
296 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. XIII. 
 
 the leaves of which oil is extracted, maple, elder, willow, 
 boxwood, etc.” The only plant that is said to be found 
 above the forest is a curious one called nihuji, which is 
 supposed to cure diseases.* The ascent of this mountain is 
 a sacred pilgrimage, and there are accordingly several roads 
 to the summit, with nine huts or shelters on each. The 
 sight of the pilgrims, dressed in white robes, and praying to 
 the rising sun, is said to greatly interest foreigners. Mr. 
 Marshall says he has known two or three hundred of these 
 white-robed devotees turn out of the numerous sheds on the 
 summit “ and chant their prayers most melodiously to the 
 rising ruler of the day.” He adds : “ From the summit of 
 Fuji on a clear day the view is superb of mountains, lakes, 
 rivers, valleys, plains, and seas. . . . Sometimes the higher 
 mountains are hidden by stormy seas of snow-white cloud, 
 hut even then the mountaineer feels the splendour of the 
 scene ample reward for his labour.” 
 
 Leaving Shidzuoka early on the morning of the 16th of 
 March, we pursued our course eastward, lunching at Kamhara, 
 and staying for the next night at Mishima. Our route lay 
 for several hours with Fuji-yama on our left and the sea 
 on our right, and as the day was one of rare fineness, and 
 of very remarkable atmospheric clearness, we enjoyed scenery 
 which is not to he surpassed in the world. For some 
 hours the whole 13,000 feet of Fuji-yama was without 
 the faintest phantom of a cloud — an almost unprecedented 
 fact, according to the local statements made to us — and 
 when clouds formed they merely constituted a sort of 
 experimental display, as if the governor of the district had 
 carried his courtesy to the length of showing us how prettily 
 clouds can he produced up there out of nothing ; how much 
 softer than any silk, and how much more transparent than 
 any gauze, they can he woven when sunbeams interlace with 
 vapours of snow ; how slowly they can sail past the steadfast 
 
 * In a discussion on Mr. Marshall’s growing as far up as the seventh 
 
 paper, Mr. Satow stated that in an station, and had seen tufts of grass 
 
 ascent of Fuji-yama which he had . as far up even as the ninth, 
 made in 1877, he had found plants 
 
CHAP. XIII.] FUJI- YAM A — THE HAKONE MOUNTAINS. 297 
 
 mountain front, and quicken their speed as they pass around 
 and beyond it ; with what consummate art they can veil 
 any blemish on the mountain’s beauty ; and how, by deepen- 
 ing their own shade and darkening their own shadows, they 
 can intensify by contrast even the cold, white, solid-seeming 
 splendour of the mountain itself. As for the sea, as it lay 
 lake-like but vast in the beautiful Suruga Bay, sparkling 
 in a setting of coloured mountains, its solicitations to the 
 eye were urgent and perpetual. A morning or two before 
 it seemed, as I have previously remarked, to fairly foam 
 with brightness ; hut on this occasion its brightness was 
 more definite and intense, more like one might expect it 
 to appear if its whole surface were surging with liquid dia- 
 monds. I have no power to describe the combined beauty 
 of the mountain on the one hand and the sea on the other, 
 on this middle day of March ; hut to assist the reader in 
 imagining it, I ought to repeat that for hours we had full 
 before us the immense sweep of this huge tower of silver 
 and blue, from the summit, high in heaven, clear down 
 to the sparkling sea. 0 for the skill of some more than 
 mortal artist with which to fix before the eye this glorious 
 picture ! — and indeed those many pictures of this hallowed 
 mountain as it appeared from our ever-shifting points of 
 view throughout the day. 
 
 Where a branch of Suruga Bay comes close up to the 
 hills, the Tokaido passing along the strand between, 
 stands the beautiful Buddhist (Zen-shu) temple of Seikenji 
 (“ Clear View Temple ”) — beautiful for its position, over- 
 looking the hay and the mountains beyond ; beautiful for 
 its buildings, which are among the best that we have seen 
 of the purely Japanese type ; and beautiful for its garden 
 at the back, formed from the mountain-side, with a small 
 natural torrent pouring down it, and with trees of great 
 variety scattered in a highly picturesque manner over its 
 rocky amphitheatre. In front of this temple is a plum-tree, 
 planted by the hand of the great lyeyasu nearly three 
 hundred years ago. The residential buildings of the temple 
 were in part rebuilt eleven years ago, and have been occu- 
 
298 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. XIII, 
 
 pied for a short time by the now reigning Mikado, who 
 once stayed here on account of the salubrity of the place. 
 We halted and visited this temple, the chief priest kindly 
 showing ns its treasures, among which were letters of 
 lyeyasn and Hideyoshi. There w^ere likewise three silver 
 cups given to the temple by the present Mikado in remem- 
 brance of his visit. A jjvopos of these cups, I was informed 
 that persons now subscribing to the funds of public institu- 
 tions in Japan receive from the Mikado a present of cups. 
 If the subscription is of ten thousand ijen (dollars) or up- 
 wards, the cups are of gold ; if it he less than ten thousand 
 but of or over one thousand ijen, they are of silver ; and if 
 for less, they are of some material of less value. The 
 venerable chief priest of this temple has held the office for 
 thirty years. 
 
 Most of the villages passed through on the day now under 
 notice were on or near to the shore of Suruga Bay, along 
 which the Tokaido sweeps, and the villagers were largely 
 occupied in drying fish for manure. There was also carried 
 on in favourable places, and on a large scale, the method of 
 obtaining salt from the sea, by throwing sea-water over 
 prepared beds of sand, and allowing the sun’s heat to 
 evaporate the water and leave the salt. The largest river 
 crossed was Fuji-kawa, which runs down from the inland 
 mountains past the western side of Fuji-yama, entering the 
 sea close to the base of that mountain. Its main channel 
 is about seventy miles long. When we passed it was 
 flowing wuth swiftness through one main channel of siif- 
 ficent width to compel us to cross in ferry-boats in the 
 absence of a bridge, hut the bed of the river, which must 
 be nearly two miles wide, was dry. Three times a year 
 the wffiole of the broad bed is covered with the torrent. 
 The Tokaido proper crosses this river by a bridge much 
 higher up ; but we took a short cut, and with it a very had, 
 sandy road, so that I doubt if we gained anything in time. 
 
 I for one, however, gained the exercise and pleasure of the 
 walk across the river bed, which was very enjoyable. At 
 one period of the day, as we approached Mishima, we lost for 
 
CHAP. XIII.] FUJI-YAMA — TEE HAKONE MOUNTAINS. 299 
 
 a time the company of his excellency Admiral Kawamnra, 
 who went off to inspect a quantity of Tiaki timber cut for 
 his dejiartment in the forests on Mount Amaki, not allowing 
 me to accompany him or to know beforehand of his going, 
 on account of the disturbed state of my health. 
 
 It was five o’clock before we arrived at Mishima, having 
 visited some pleasant gardens at Hara, after lunching at 
 Kamhara. Immediately after alighting from our jinrild-shas, 
 in which we had been with brief intervals for nearly ten 
 hours, we proceeded to visit the great Shinto temple of 
 Mishima Gengin, at the invitation of the chief priest, Mayada, 
 a temple so ancient as regards its foundation that no one 
 knows when it was founded, and a chief priest so pleasant 
 that I do not wish to meet a pleasanter. This is the temple 
 by which Japanese pledge themselves when they wish to 
 make a very solemn and binding engagement. Two of the 
 junior priests received us at the outer torii, and led us to the 
 temple proper, where the chief priest awaited us with the 
 temple hand playing. Some of us went through the simple 
 ceremony of washing the hands and putting a branch of the 
 sacred tree into its place. We then examined the treasures 
 of the temple, including a very ancient vase, said to belong 
 to the period of the gods — dating, that is, from before the 
 reign of Jimmu-Tenno, the first Mikado, which commenced, 
 according to the histories, six hundred and sixty years before 
 Christ; an imperial order or warrant to the temple from 
 the empress Gensho, written nearly twelve hundred years 
 ago ; likewise numerous small articles which once belonged 
 to Yoritomo and his mother (twelfth century), having been 
 brought here from the palace of Kamakura ; a very ancient 
 flute, known as the flute of ivory ; a sword which was used 
 by the Daimio of Hizen in subduing the Christian Japanese ; 
 and collections of other swords and of robes of distinction 
 which have from time to time, during many centuries, been 
 presented to the temple, and many of which, as the reader 
 will suppose, were viewed with interest. The chief priest 
 presented us with some of the “ god’s-food ” in the form 
 of boxes of sweetmeats which had been offered to the 
 
300 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. XIII. 
 
 god at the altar, and had remained there the usual time ; 
 and likewise with a written description of the temple, and 
 some of the simple temple remembrances such as pilgrims 
 take away with them. He was good enough afterwards to 
 bring me (to the excellent hotel at which we stayed in 
 Mishima) some photographs of the temple which he had 
 considerately had taken during the day for the purpose. 
 Our hotel at Mishima was that of Mr. Saiko, which was in 
 admirable condition, having been renovated for the reception 
 of the Mikado on his Tokaido journey. 
 
 The next day our route lay over the Hakone mountains, 
 the pass of which, although broad and in the main of 
 moderate gradients, is in places so steep, and everywhere 
 paved with such large rough stones, as to he almost im- 
 practicable for jinriki-shas ; and although, as we saw, these 
 little carriages were occasionally dragged over, they are 
 taken over empty, the passenger having to travel on foot 
 the greater part of the distance from Mishima to Hakone. 
 The usual course is therefore to resort to the kago, or 
 light carriage, borne on the shoulders of men. But before 
 describing our kagos, let me mention another sort of kago 
 -which we met in the street on our way out of Mishima, 
 and which was no less than the kago of the god. It appears 
 that just as the god had at Ise ponies to take him for a 
 ride on great occasions, so he has a kago to serve a similar 
 purpose on festival days ; and this ornamental little carriage, 
 mounted partly above the hearing-poles, instead of being 
 slung below them, was the kago of Mishima’s god. I am 
 told that here as elsewhere the god has at the great festivals, 
 known as “ Matsurei,” no less than forty hearers, all dressed 
 in white, who sway from side to side of the road, singing 
 sacred songs, and at intervals hoisting the kago as high 
 in the air as possible. All the shops are closed at such 
 festive times, and there is general rejoicing. And in what 
 form is the god ? the reader will ask, at least I hope she * 
 
 * I agree with a writer who re- reading — I forget where— that we 
 
 cently set forth in an article I was ate very much in want of a pronoun 
 
Soldiers in Time of Peace. 
 
 From Hokusai. Reproduced for this Work by a Japanese Engraver. 
 
 To face page 300, Vol. IT. 
 
 r 
 
 I 
 
i' 
 
 ■ i 
 
 
 
 - f 
 
 i: 
 
 r 
 
 I - 
 
 
 ' v'T* *' 
 
 '-.- - ‘ ■»» ; ' 
 
 J>" 
 
 ■t ■ 
 
 . 
 
 
 A 
 
 - ».. ■’■ 
 
CHAP. XIII.] FUJI-YAMA — THE HAKONE MOUNTAINS. 301 
 
 will, because that question will enable me to point out the 
 power of the Japanese imagination : for tbe god bas no form 
 at all, except that with which the imagination invests him ; 
 he is simply represented, after a fashion, by goheis, which, as 
 the reader knows, are neither more nor less in themselves than 
 bits of paper cut in jagged strips and attached to sticks. 
 
 Our hagos are of two kinds, the one being closed like 
 a dwarf sedan-chair, with the bottom serving as the seat, 
 and sliding doors at the sides ; the other, known as 
 yama-liago, or mountain-Z;a^o, being a mere suspended 
 open framework of bamboo to rest on, with a light screen 
 over it. In both cases they are suspended from a pole 
 running lengthwise, and the bearers carry folded handker- 
 chiefs as a shoulder-pad, and a bamboo stick to rest the pole 
 on when they “ change shoulders,” which^ they do after 
 very short intervals. The largest hago of each kind that 
 could be obtained in Mishima was placed at my disposal, 
 and I tried both before starting, and found, as I thought, 
 that either would do ; but we all started from Mishima 
 on foot, and when, after a long and tiring climb, I forced 
 myself into them and attempted to travel in them, I found 
 that neither was endurable for more than a few minutes, 
 especially as the bearers changed shoulders frequently, and 
 kept me so incessantly gyrating through large angles that 
 they gave me a sort of longitudinal swimming in the head, 
 to which a reasonable regard for the readers of this book 
 would not allow me to submit myself for more than a very 
 few hundred yards. I was obliged, therefore, to make my 
 own way on foot to Hakone, and a toilsome way I found 
 it. At Hakone, after luncheon, a much larger yama-hago 
 was obtained, and adapted for four bearers, so that the 
 remainder of the day’s journey to Ynmoto was relieved as 
 much as I found necessary. Speaking generally, these 
 hagos are a detestable means of conveyance to all but 
 Japanese, owing to the cramped position which you are 
 required to assume in them. They appear to be comfortable 
 
 to stand for either he or she in cases the lady the preference, as is meet 
 
 of this sort. In this instance I give and riglit. 
 
302 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. XIII. 
 
 enough, indeed very comfortable, to the natives of the 
 country, because they are habituated from infancy to sit 
 upon their feet, or upon the floor with their feet turned 
 under. But for those of us (Europeans, Americans, and 
 others) who are accustomed all our days to sit on chairs, 
 it is very difiicult to assume at all the position necessary 
 for hago-^iiimg or hago-\jmg, and almost impossible to 
 preserve it long. “ In these vehicles,” says Mr. Griffis, 
 I always fall asleep at the wrong end ; my head remaining 
 wide awake, while my feet are incorrigibly somnolent. I lie 
 in all shapes, from a coil of rope to a pair of inverted 
 dividers, with head wrapped from the cold, and hardly 
 enough face visible to make a monkey.” 
 
 We had a very^ suitable day for crossing these Hakone 
 mountains, the atmosphere being clear and inclined to bright- 
 ness, but with continuous screens of cloud to protect us from 
 the fiercer heat and light of the sun’s direct beams. We 
 obtained as we ascended glorious views over the country we 
 were leaving, from Fuji-yama westward over the fruitful 
 Shidzuoka Ken, and southward over the fine bay of Suruga 
 and the Idzu hills and vales. The road is pillared on either 
 side throughout with ancient pine-trees, that make it like a 
 vast continuous cathedral aisle, but one unlike all human 
 architecture in its ascents and descents, in the twisted, con- 
 torted earth-grasping character of its column-pedestals, and 
 in the shifting lights and shadows that stream through its 
 rustling roof. Occasionally we heard the melodious notes of 
 the uguisu, a wood-bird much celebrated in the poetry of 
 the country. It has a note like one of the best “ phrases ” 
 of the nightingale, if the musical world will allow the expres- 
 sion ; but its range is limited. It is, however, a pretty though 
 a brief bit of nightingale melody, and is sufficient of itself 
 (although it is not by any means alone) to make answer to 
 those who say that bird-song has been omitted altogether 
 from the delights of Japan.* The uguisu is said by the 
 
 * Since writing the above I have by my friend Capt. Hawes, of Tokio, 
 
 been looking over the proof of a pnpcr descriptive of a tour made by liim in 
 
CHAP. xiTi.] FUJI- YAM A — THE IIAKONE MOUNTAINS. 303 
 
 poets “ to come warbling witli the plum-blossom.” And as 
 one is here speaking of birds, it may not be amiss to add that 
 throughout most of the country, and more still throughout the 
 towns of Japan of which I have had experience, there has been 
 a marked abundance of hawks and eagles on the wing — these 
 being, in fact, with wild ducks and wild geese, the birds most 
 usually seen here. We observed on this road the process of 
 preparing the bark of the hoso for paper manufacture. There 
 were also — if I may be allowed to vary the subject of my 
 remarks with something like the rapidity with which the 
 objects of observation varied on the roadside — numerous 
 small shrines at intervals, and occasionally a rough monu- 
 mental tablet to the memory of some long-deceased person of 
 eminence. It was touching to note that here, high up on 
 this mountain road, the memory of persons who had been 
 dead for centuries was kept green still by a living hand 
 placing before the stone, in a bit of bamboo cane, a branch 
 of fresh spring verdure. 
 
 Our hard walk over the mountain was relieved by frequent 
 stoppages for rest and the slight but welcome refreshment of 
 a cup of Japanese tea. There were numerous tea-houses by 
 the way, and at any of them this could be got ; but having 
 the honour of travelling with a cabinet minister of the 
 country, and one of the most thoughtful and kindly of hosts, 
 our necessities had all been anticipated by his officers, or by 
 those of the Ken or county. A long way up the mountain 
 we halted at a spot whence the view westward was thought 
 to be the finest on the pass, and where consequently a little 
 view-house had been erected for his majesty the emperor on 
 his journey previously mentioned. Our view of the great 
 solitary king of mountains, Fuji, was already, by our change 
 
 the interior of Japan, in which I find 
 a similar view stated. After describ- 
 ing the delicious perfume of the air 
 as not unlike the fragrance of the 
 meadow-sweet at home, he adds : 
 “ This, combined with the clear note 
 of the cuckoo, which sounded plea- 
 santly through the woods, the warble 
 
 of the nightingale, and the harsher 
 song of the jay, which were heard all 
 around, does certainly rather upset 
 the theory of some writers who assert 
 that ‘Japan is a country in which the 
 birds do not sing and the flowers 
 have no smell.’ ” 
 
304 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. XIII. 
 
 of position, getting seriously compromised by other mountains 
 intervening, and he had donned a Sort of helmet or crown of 
 cloud ; a little later on he became like our own King Arthur, 
 on the night of his final leave-taking from the queen, for the 
 rolling vapour 
 
 “ Enwound him fold by fold, and made him gray, 
 
 And grayer, till himself became as mist,” 
 
 and he was seen again no more before the close of our journey 
 to the capital. 
 
 Soon after the descent commenced we reached the dividing 
 line between the Kens of Shidzuoka and Kanagawa, which 
 was notified by notice-posts, and was further marked in the 
 present instance by a change of police, it being an order of 
 the emperor to the governing bodies of the Kens, since the 
 murder of the late minister Okubo, that cabinet ministers 
 travelling in the interior shall be attended by a small escort 
 of police. Some people who observe this police escort jump 
 to the conclusion that the ministers live in fear for their 
 lives, and that it is by their own desire that the escort is pro- 
 vided ; whereas I am able to state from personal knowledge 
 and experience that the escort is felt by some of the ministers 
 to be irksome rather than otherwise, and is submitted to in 
 deference to the commands of his majesty. No such thing as 
 a general fear for the lives of the ministers is probably felt 
 either by themselves or by his majesty; but the country has 
 undergone vast changes during the last few years, and vast 
 changes of necessity beget dissatisfaction in many, and there 
 is always a risk that among many dissatisfied there may be 
 here and there a fanatic who would revenge himself in blood 
 if he could, and this is no doubt the reason why the emperor 
 desires that for the present his cabinet advisers should usually 
 have the protection of either a military or civil guard to 
 prevent at least anything like hasty or casual attempts 
 against them. Another reason for the precaution is to be 
 found in the fact that the ministers are considered by the 
 people to be peculiarly responsible for the regulations which 
 foreign powers impose upon the government of Japan, and 
 
CHAP. XIII.] FUJIYAMA — THE IIAKOFE MOUFTAINk 305 
 
 whicli are known to give to foreigners many privileges at 
 the expense of the native population. This is a perpetual 
 source of clanger to the government. 
 
 After changing guard and commencing the descent to- 
 wards Hakone, we came upon a fine view of the pretty little 
 lake of that name, which has an area of square miles, 
 and upon the hank of which stands the village. Mr. 
 Marshall, in the paper already quoted, tells us that Lake 
 Hakone, like Avernus, is supposed to be an ancient crater, 
 and quotes what Kaempfer wrote in his description of his 
 journey to the court of the Shogun in 1691, when he passed 
 the lake about the middle of March, and therefore at the 
 same period as that at which we passed it. He wrote : “ This 
 lake is everywhere surrounded with high mountains, which 
 shut it up on both sides in such a manner that there is no 
 room to apprehend its overflowing the adjacent country. 
 Though the mountains that encompass it be of a very great 
 height, yet the top of Fuji-yama rises still higher, being seen 
 to the W.N.W. by the inhabitants of Togitsu (Hakone). We 
 were told that in former times this place sank in by a violent 
 earthquake, and that in lieu of it sprang up this lake. In 
 proof of this they advance the great quantity of mgi or cedar 
 trunks of an uncommon size which lie at the bottom, and are 
 fetched up from thence by divers, when the lord of the place 
 commands it, or hath occasion for them. For the neighbour- 
 hood produces everywhere great plenty of this tree, and the 
 tallest and finest cedars that are to be found anywhere in 
 Japan. The lake of Hakone being entirely surrounded with 
 mountains hath no other outlet but through one of these 
 mountains, being the same which is called Futago-yama, and 
 which lets the waters come through three different openings, 
 from whence they fall down the mountain-side in the nature 
 of cataracts to a considerable height, and, soon receiving 
 other rivulets from the neighbouring mountains, form them- 
 
 * This and the neighbouring vil- and more especially of their inlaid 
 lages as far on as Yumoto are noted work. Shops for the sale of them 
 for the excellence and cheapness of abound in all these villages, 
 their ornamental articles in wood, 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 X 
 
306 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. xin. 
 
 selves into a river, wliicli with a frightful horrid noise crosses 
 the valley, running down over stones and sometimes precipices 
 towards the sea.” In this last sentence he refers, says Mr. 
 Marshall, to the river Haya, which flows through theMiyano- 
 shita, which is really the outlet of the lake ; and he was led 
 by the people of Hakone into the error regarding the connec- 
 tion between the Haya and the lake by the people telling him 
 of an artificial outlet which the farmers on the other side of 
 the mountains to the west of the lake made in order to secure 
 water for their fields in all seasons. This is a tunnel piercing 
 the mountains, and is an engineering work of great magni- 
 tude, requiring much skill for its execution. Mr. Marshall 
 makes no reference to the age of this great engineering work ; 
 hut Mr. Griffis states that it was performed centuries ago, 
 “ and now through the rocky sluices flows a flood sufficient to 
 enrich the millions of acres of Suruga province.” 
 
 In passing out of Hakone we saw the site of the old 
 Tokaido gate, and the remains of the gate buildings. In the 
 days of the Tycoons this Tokaido high road was blocked by 
 three defensible gates, which people were allowed through 
 only with passports. These gates were known as sehi, as 
 already intimated, and appear to have been kept with great 
 care down to the close of the Tycoon’s government, as I have 
 heard from those who travelled over the Tokaido in compara- 
 tively recent times of the difficulties experienced in getting 
 quickly through the gates, and of the insistence of those in 
 charge upon all passengers, even the sick and weak, alighting 
 from their Imgos to pass through. I have also heard, however, 
 that even the officers of the terrible Tycoon were not at 
 all times more absolutely incorruptible than other such 
 functionaries, and that the passage was facilitated by a due 
 regard to the financial convenience of the “ obstructives.” 
 The sekiSj in the feudal days, which were days of feuds, were 
 important strategic points, and their sites were of course so 
 selected that they might he. 
 
 The road beyond the old Hakone gate, going eastwards 
 (as we were), rises again occasionally, hut to no very great 
 extent — if my observation from a yama-kago, in a nearly 
 
CHAP. xiii.J FUJI-YAMA — THE HAKONE MOUNTAINS. 307 
 
 horizontal position, may be trnsted — bnt there were long 
 descents, with many very steep and winding places, to be 
 made before our destination, Yumoto, was reached. The 
 scenery was fine, and for the greater part wooded, with 
 a torrent tumbling down the valley, and the hedges en- 
 livened by violets and by a variegated bamboo plant with 
 green and yellow in each stem and leaf. It being a bad 
 thing to go to sleep under such circumstances, although still 
 ill, I did what I could to avoid it, but the easy, synchronous, 
 sonorous movements of the kago, the lulling though half- 
 sibilant voice of the torrent, the soothing beauty of the 
 green aisle through which one was gliding, and, most of all, 
 the fatigue of a long mountain walk succeeding a short 
 night’s sleep, were sometimes and short times overpowering, 
 and I had to yield to them. Unlike Mr. Grifiis, however, 
 I went to sleep at the right end. I completed the last two 
 miles of the journey on foot, tempted by the glimpses ahead 
 of the bright and beautiful Sea of Sagami, out of which 
 opens the bay on which stand both Yokohama and Tokio. 
 The earth drinks up nearly all the light the sun sheds on 
 it ; but the water reflects a part of it, and so brightens the 
 landscape with sheets of light. It is, no doubt, this re- 
 flection of the light — whether of the direct rays of the sun 
 or of rays already reflected from sky or cloud — that gives 
 to water part of the charm which one never fails to feel 
 in the presence of river, lake, or sea. 
 
 Our day’s work terminated in a new, and as yet un- 
 finished, hotel, with a European-looking exterior and a 
 purely Japanese interior. It contains a couple of baths 
 of the hot-spring water of Yumoto, and is beautifully 
 situated on the bank of the resounding river that leaps 
 and scrambles down to the valley. The landlord, Mr. Saiko, 
 does not like Europeans or Americans, I was told — at least 
 he sets his face against having them as guests in his hotel, 
 because while he takes a great pride in having it clean and 
 bright, and in perfect Japanese order, they have not the 
 good manners to take their boots off and behave as becomes 
 the place. Therefore he objected very seriously to my son 
 
 X 2 
 
308 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 and myself going there as involving an infringement of 
 a rule which he intended to he absolute and to maintain 
 unbroken, and how his objection was got over I don’t know. 
 But it was got over, and we found ourselves in charming 
 quarters, making due allowance (as you always must make 
 in a house of Japanese style) for the absence of any warmth 
 beyond what can be got out of small open charcoal fires 
 in hibaehis, and likewise for the presence of draughts all 
 round you. The best was, however, done with screens, as 
 usual in such cases, and the best was not bad in this case. 
 
 Too fatigued to sleep much, nevertheless, I was glad 
 when six o^'clock came, and with it the preparations for the 
 last start of our Tokaido trip. Before leaving I looked 
 carefully through Mr. Saiko’s hotel, and found it very 
 interesting. It was most excellently built as regards work- 
 manship, and several beautiful woods were used in its con- 
 struction, in all cases being left, as usual in Japan, untouched 
 by paint or polish. Some of the ceilings were formed of 
 planks cut from a tree dug from such a depth below the 
 soil and in such a position as to prove that it was of great 
 antiquity. Time and darkness and the grave had only 
 veined and stained it with peculiar beauty, and, laid in 
 strakes alternating with others of modern wood, it had a 
 very bright and pleasing effect. Another ceiling was formed 
 with plank of extreme breadth and clearness of texture, and 
 was quite a curiosity of construction. The house had other 
 constructive merits which I need not dwell on. I confess, 
 however, that I was a little startled to find the old Japanese 
 system of a common bath for men and women preserved in 
 this beautiful modern establishment. There were but two 
 baths to the house, one public, in which ladies, gentlemen, 
 and young people of both sexes were supposed to refresh 
 themselves, and the other a private bath, the privacy of 
 which consisted solely, so far as I could see, in a partition 
 separating part of it from the other, the bath itself being 
 open in front. I presume Mr. Saiko’s motto is “ Honi soit 
 qui mal y pense ! ” 
 
 Yomoti is fifteen ris six chios from Kanagawa. A ri 
 
CHAP. XIII.] FUJI-YAMA — THE HAEONE MOUNTAINS. 309 
 
 is thirty-six cliios, and a chio is sixty fathoms and a 
 little more. But as there are people alive who were edu- 
 cated before Mr. Forster introduced the School Boards, I 
 had better put the case more simply, and say that the dis- 
 tance was 15^- ris, and that 'a n is equal to nearly two and 
 a half miles (more exactly 2*46) ; let us call it thirty-seven and 
 a half miles. We left, by my watch (which was wrong, having 
 Nagoya time, but that does not matter), at a quarter past 
 seven; we arrived in Kanagawa at a quarter before two. 
 We stopped three or four times ; we spent one hour in 
 lunching and resting at Fuji-sawa; and the road was to a 
 considerable extent very hilly, and to a larger extent very 
 bad, being a sand road with so many holes in it that a 
 frequent slackening of pace was inevitable. Yet, deducting 
 the luncheon hour, we travelled in the jinriki-slias, with two 
 men to each (three to mine most of the way), the thirty-seven 
 and a half miles in five and a half hours, which was an average 
 of nearly seven miles an hour. From Fuji-sawa to Kanagawa 
 the distance is over fifteen English miles : we travelled 
 it in exactly two hours, or at the rate of over seven 
 and a half miles an hour, although this part of the journey 
 included the most and worst of the hills, and the worst part 
 of the road. On a smooth good road, such as the Tokaido 
 often is beyond the Hakone mountains, and where there 
 are but few towns upon it, the jinrild-sha men frequently 
 ran us along at eight miles per hour. I believe the poor 
 fellows who get their living in this way are very, very 
 poorly paid indeed — as a general rule, I mean, of course — 
 and many of them have wives and families. The stress of 
 life must therefore bear heavily on them ; still, more willing 
 or more industrious fellows I have never seen, and I sin- 
 cerely hope they are able to bear their hard lot without too 
 much of that pain which we must all feel in thinking of it. 
 
 I have mentioned the bad state of the Tokaido between 
 Odawara — that famous town of the siege of which I have 
 elsewhere spoken — and Tokio. I may add that hearing, as 
 I had often done, of the excellence of this great highway 
 between what were formerly the capitals of the Mikado and 
 
310 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [chap. XIII. 
 
 the Tycoon, 1 was quite astonished at the state in which I 
 saw it in most of the towns and villages through which it 
 passed. One would have expected that the presence of a 
 populous town, where labour must be cheap, while on the 
 one hand increasing traffic and damaging the highway, 
 would on the other be made available for more than com- 
 pensating for the extra traffic, and for keeping the road in a 
 thoroughly satisfactory state. But the contrary is the case, 
 and the local traffic is allowed to destroy the highway with 
 seeming impunity, and thus to entail upon long-journey 
 travellers delays, fatigues, and even dangers which are 
 wholly unnecessary. I am quite aware that owing to the 
 abolition of the Daimio traffic, and the existence of steam- 
 ship communication between the former and present capitals, 
 the Tokaido has become a less frequented highway than it 
 was aforetime ; but on the other hand the maintenance and 
 improvement of its internal means of communication are of 
 such great importance to the country, and the western part 
 of the Tokaido is so well kept between the towns and villages, 
 that one could not but continually regret the absence of 
 satisfactory means for compelling the local people to keep 
 the main road good and efficient within their own limits. 
 
 But whether the Tokaido be good or bad, our journey 
 upon it was now over. The interior of Japan had swept 
 past us for many days, decorating the hall of memory with 
 many a splendid picture, not to be forgotten until its 
 walls turn again to dust. At the Kanagawa railway station 
 we were met by many friends, upon several of whom 
 the naval uniform glittered in the afternoon sun. A few 
 minutes more and we were speeding back to the capital 
 behind the horse of fire ; and yet a few minutes more and 
 we were once again under a roof where kindness blooms 
 continually, and again the guests of a hostess whose gentle 
 but hearty welcome suffered nothing from her want of 
 English words. 
 
( 311 ) 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 TBEATIES AND CONVENTIONS. 
 
 TREATY BETWEEN GREAT BRITAIN AND JAPAN, 
 
 Signed at Yedo Augmt 26, 1858. Ratifications exchanged^ at Yedo 
 
 July 11, 1859. 
 
 Her Majesty the Queen of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and 
 Ireland, and His Majesty the Tycoon of Japan, being desirous to i^lace 
 the relations between the two countries on a permanent and friendly 
 footing, and to facilitate commercial intercourse between their respec- 
 tive subjects, and having for that purpose resolved to enter into a 
 Treaty of Peace, Amity, and Commerce, have named as their Pleni- 
 potentiaries, that is to say : — 
 
 Her Majesty the Queen of Great Britain and Ireland, The Eight 
 Honourable the Earl of Elgin and Kincardine, a Peer of the United 
 Kingdom, and Knight of the Most Ancient and Most Noble Order of 
 the Thistle: — 
 
 And His Majesty the Tycoon of Japan, Midzuno Chikugo no Kami ; 
 Nagai Geinba no Kami ; Inouye Shinano no Kami ; Hori Oribe no Sho ; 
 Iwase Higo no Kami ; and Tsuda Hanzaburo, who after having com- 
 municated to each other their respective full powers and found them 
 to be in good and due form, have agreed upon and concluded the 
 following Articles : — 
 
 I. There shall be perpetual peace and friendship between Her 
 Majesty the Queen of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and 
 Ireland, her heirs and successors, and His Majesty the Tycoon of 
 Japan, and between their respective dominions and subjects, 
 
 II. Her Majesty the Queen of the United Kingdom of Great Britain 
 and Ireland may appoint a Diplomatic Agent to reside at the city of 
 Yedo, and Consuls or Consular Agents to reside at any or all the ports 
 of Japan, which are opened for British commerce by this Treaty. 
 
312 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [app. 
 
 The Diplomatic Agent and Consul-General of Great Britain shall 
 have the right to travel freely to any part of the Empire of Japan. 
 
 His Majesty the Tycoon of Japan may appoint a Diplomatic Agent 
 to reside in London, and Consuls, or Consular Agents, at any or all 
 the ports of Great Britain. 
 
 The Diplomatic Agent and Consul-General of Japan shall have the 
 right to travel freely to any part of Great Britain. 
 
 in. The ports and towns of Hakodate, Kanagawa, and Nagasaki 
 shall he opened to British subjects on the first of July, one thousand 
 eight hundred and fifty-nine. In addition to which, the following- 
 ports and towns shall be opened to them at the dates hereinafter 
 specified : — 
 
 Nee-e-gata, or, if Nee-e-gata be found to be unsuitable as a harbour, 
 another convenient port on the west coast of Nipon, on the first day of 
 January, one thousand eight hundred and sixty. 
 
 Hiogo, on the first day of January, one thousand eight hundred and 
 sixty-three. 
 
 In all the foregoing ports and towns, British subjects may per- 
 manently .reside. They shall have the right to lease ground, and 
 purchase the buildings thereon, and may erect dwellings and ware- 
 houses; but no fortification, or place of military strength, shall be 
 erected under pretence of building dwellings or warehouses; and to 
 see that this Article is observed, the Japanese authorities shall have 
 the right to inspect, from time to time, any buildings which are being- 
 erected, altered, or repaired. 
 
 The place which British subjects shall occupy for their buildings, 
 and the harbour regulations, shall be arranged by the British Consul 
 and the Japanese authorities of each j^lace, and if they cannot agree, 
 the matter shall be referred to and settled by the British Diplomatic 
 Agent and the Japanese Government.* No wall, fence, or gate shall be 
 erected by the Japanese around the place where British subjects reside, 
 or anything done which may prevent a free egress or ingress to the same. 
 
 British subjects shall be free to go where they please, within the 
 following limits, at the ojoened ports of Japan : — 
 
 At Kanagawa to the Eiver Lokugo (which emiDties into the Bay of 
 Yedo, between Kawasaki and Sinagawa), and ten n in any other 
 direction. 
 
 At Hakodate ten ri in any direction. 
 
 At Hiogo ten ri in any direction, that of Kioto excepted, which city 
 shall not be approached nearer than ten ri. The crews of vessels 
 resorting to Hiogo shall not cross the Eiver Enagawa, which empties 
 into the bay between Hiogo and Osaca. 
 
 The distance shall be measured by land from the goyosho, or town 
 hall of each of the foregoing ports, the ri being equal to four thousand 
 two hundred and seventy-five yards English measure. 
 
APP.] 
 
 TBEATIES AND CONVENTIONS. 
 
 313 
 
 At Nagasaki, British subjects may go into any part of the Imperial 
 domain in its vicinity. 
 
 The boundaries of Nee-e-gata, or the place that may be substituted 
 for it, shall be settled by the British Diplomatic Agent and the 
 Government of Japan. 
 
 From the first day of January, one thousand eight hundred and 
 sixty-two, British subjects shall be allowed to reside in the city of 
 Yedo, and from the first day of January, one thousand eight hundred 
 and sixty-three, in the city of Osaca, for the purposes of trade only. 
 In each of these two cities a suitable place, within which they may 
 hire houses, and the distance they may go, shall be arranged by the 
 British Diplomatic Agent and the Government of Japan. 
 
 IV. All questions in regard to rights, whether of property or person, 
 arising between British subjects in the dominions of His Majesty the 
 Tycoon of Japan, shall be subject to the jurisdiction of the British 
 authorities. 
 
 V. Japanese subjects, who may be guilty of any criminal act towards 
 British subjects, shall be arrested and punished by the Japanese 
 authorities according to the laws of Japan. 
 
 British subjects who may commit any crime against Japanese 
 subjects, or the subjects or citizens of any other country, shall be tried 
 and punished by the Consul, or other public functionary, authorised 
 thereto, according to the laws of Great Britain. 
 
 Justice shall be equitably and impartially administered on both 
 sides. 
 
 VI. A British subject having reason to complain of a Japanese, must 
 proceed to the Consulate and state his grievance. 
 
 The Consul will inquire into the merits of the case, and do his 
 utmost to arrange it amicably. In like manner, if a Japanese have 
 reason to complain of a British subject, the Consul shall no less listen 
 to his complaint, and endeavour to settle it in a friendly manner. If 
 disputes take place of such a nature that the Consul cannot arrange 
 them amicably, then he shall request the assistance of the Japanese 
 authorities, that they may together examine into the merits of the case 
 and decide it equitably. 
 
 VII. Should any Japanese subject fail to discharge debts incurred 
 to a British subject, or should he fraudulently abscond, the Japan- 
 ese authorities will do their utmost to bring him to justice, and to 
 enforce recovery of the debts ; and should any British subject fraudu- 
 lently abscond, or fail to discharge debts incurred by him to a Japanese 
 subject, the British authorities will, in like manner, do their utmost 
 to bring him to justice, and to enforce recovery of the debts. 
 
 Neither the British or Japanese Governments are to be held re- 
 sponsible for the j)ayment of any debts contracted by British or 
 Japanese subjects. 
 
314 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [app. 
 
 YIII. The Japanese Government will place no restrictions whatever 
 upon the employment, by British subjects, of Japanese in any lawful 
 capacity. 
 
 IX. British subjects in Japan shall be allowed the free exercise of 
 their religion, and for this purpose shall have the right to erect 
 suitable places of worship. 
 
 X. All foreign coin shall be current in Japan, and shall pass for its 
 corresponding weight in Japanese coin of the same description. 
 
 British and Japanese subjects may freely use foreign or Japanese 
 coin, in making payments to each other. 
 
 As some time will elapse before the Japanese will become acquainted 
 with the value of foreign coin, the Japanese Government will, for the 
 period of one year after the opening of each port, furnish British 
 subjects with Japanese coin in exchange for theirs, equal weights 
 being given, and no discount taken for recoinage. 
 
 Coins of all description (with the exception of Japanese copper 
 coin), as well as foreign gold and silver uncoined, may be exported 
 from Japan. 
 
 XI. Supplies for the use of the British navy may be landed at 
 Kanagawa, Hakodate, and Nagasaki, and stored in warehouses, in the 
 custody of an officer of the British Government, without the payment 
 of any duty; but if any such supplies are sold in Japan, the purchaser 
 shall pay the proper duty to the Japanese authorities. 
 
 XII. If any British vessel be at any time wrecked or stranded on 
 the coasts of Japan, or be compelled to take refuge in any port within 
 the dominions of the Tycoon of Japan, the Japanese authorities, on 
 being apprised of the fact, shall immediately render all the assistance 
 in their power ; the persons on board shall receive friendly treatment^ 
 and be furnished, if necessary, with the means of conveyance to the 
 nearest Consular station. 
 
 XIII. Any British merchant vessel arriving off one of the open 
 ]wrts of Japan shall be at liberty to hire a pilot to take her into port. 
 In like manner, after she has discharged all legal dues and duties and 
 is ready to take her departure, she shall be allowed to hire a pilot to 
 conduct her out of port. 
 
 XIV. At each of the ports open to trade, British subjects shall be 
 at full liberty to import from their own or any other ports, and sell 
 there, and purchase therein, and export to their own or any other 
 ports, all manner of merchandise, not contraband, paying the duties 
 thereon, as laid down in the Tariff annexed to the present Treaty, and 
 no other charges whatsoever. With the exception of munitions of war, 
 which shall only be sold to the Japanese Government and foreigners, 
 they may freely buy from Japanese, and sell to them, any articles 
 that either may have for sale, without the intervention of any Japanese 
 officers in such purchase or sale, or in making or receiving payment 
 
APP.] 
 
 TREATIES AND CONVENTIONS. 
 
 315 
 
 for the same; and all classes of Japanese may purchase, sell, keep, or 
 use any articles sold to them by British subjects. 
 
 XV. If the Jaj3anese Custom-house officers are dissatisfied with the 
 value placed on any goods by the owner, they may place a value^ 
 thereon, and offer to take the goods at that valuation. If the owner 
 refuses to accept the offer, he shall pay duty on such valuation. If 
 the offer be accepted by the owner, the purchase money shall be paid 
 to him without delay, and without any abatement or discount. 
 
 XVI. All goods imported into Japan by British subjects, and which 
 have paid the duty fixed by this Treaty, may be transported by the 
 Japanese into any part of the Empire without the payment of any tax, 
 excise, or transit duty whatever. 
 
 XVII. British merchants who may have imported merchandise into 
 any open port in Japan, and paid duty thereon, shall be entitled, on 
 obtaining from the Japanese Custom-house authorities a certificate 
 stating that such payment has been made, to re-export the same, and 
 land it in any other of the open ports without the payment of any 
 additional duty whatever. 
 
 XVIII. The Japanese authorities at each port will adopt the means 
 that they may judge most proper for the prevention of fraud or 
 smuggling. 
 
 XIX. All penalties enforced, or confiscations made under this 
 Treaty, shall belong to, and be appropriated by, the Government of 
 His Majesty the Tycoon of Japan. 
 
 XX. The Articles for the regulation of trade which are appended to 
 this Treaty, shall be considered as forming a part of the same, and 
 shall be equally binding on both the Contracting Parties to this 
 Treaty, and on their subjects. The Diplomatic Agent of Great 
 Britain in Japan, in conjunction with such person or persons as may 
 be appointed for that purpose by the Japanese Government, shall 
 have i)ower to make such rules as may be required to carry into full 
 and complete effect the provisions of this Treaty, and the provisions 
 of the Articles regulating trade appended thereto. 
 
 XXI. This Treaty being written in the English, Japanese, and 
 Dutch languages, and all the versions having the same meaning and 
 intention, the Dutch version shall be considered the original ; but it 
 is understood that all official communications addressed by the Diplo- 
 matic and Consular Agents of Her Majesty the Queen of Great Britain 
 to the Japanese authorities, shall henceforward be written in English. 
 In order, however, to facilitate the transaction of business, they will, 
 for a period of five years from the signature of this Treaty, be accom- 
 panied by a Dutch or Japanese version. 
 
 XXII. It is agreed that either of the High Contracting Parties to 
 this Treaty, on giving one year’s previous notice to the other, may 
 demand a revision thereof, on or after the first of July, one thousand 
 
316 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 APP. 
 
 eight hundred and seventy-two, with a view to the insertion therein 
 of such amendments as experience shall prove to be desirable. 
 
 XXIII. It is hereby expressly stipulated that the British Govern- 
 ment and its subjects will be allowed free and equal participation in 
 all privileges, immunities, and advantages that may have been, or 
 may be hereafter, granted by His Majesty the Tycoon of Japan, to the 
 Government or subjects of any other nation. 
 
 XXIV. The ratification of this Treaty, under the hand of Her 
 Majesty the Queen of Great Britain and Ireland, and under the name 
 and seal of His Majesty the Tycoon of Japan, respectively, shall be 
 exchanged at Yedo, within a year from this day of signature. In 
 token whereof, the respective Plenipotentiaries have signed and sealed 
 this Treaty. 
 
 Done at Yedo, this twenty-sixth day of August, in the year of our 
 Lord one thousand eight hundred and fifty-eight, corresponding to the 
 Japanese date, the eighteenth day of the seventh month of the fifth 
 year of Ansei, Tsuchinoye hnma. 
 
 Elgin and Kincardine. 
 
 Midzuno Chikugo no Kami. 
 
 Nagai Gemba no Kami. 
 
 Inouye Shinano no Kami. 
 
 Hori Oribei no Sho. 
 
 IwASE Higo no Kami. 
 
 Tsuda Hanzaburo. 
 
 EEGULATIONS UNDEE WHICH BEITISH TEADE IS TO 
 BE CONDUCTED IN JAPAN. 
 
 I. Within forty-eight hours (Sundays excepted) after the arrival of 
 a British ship in a Japanese port, the captain or commander shall 
 exhibit to the Japanese Custom-house authorities the receipt of the 
 British Consuls, showing that he has deposited all the ship’s papers, 
 the ship’s bills of lading, etc., at the British Consulate, and he shall 
 then make an entry of his ship, by giving a written paper, stating the 
 name of the ship, and tbe name of the port from which she comes, her 
 tonnage, the name of her captain or commander, the names of her 
 passengers (if any), and the number of her crew, which paper shall be 
 certified by the captain or commander to be a true statement, and 
 shall be signed by him ; he shall, at the same time, deposit a written 
 manifest of his cargo, setting forth the marks and numbers of the 
 packages and their contents, as they are described in his bills of lading, 
 with the names of the person or persons to whom they are consigned. 
 A list of the stores of the ship shall be added to the manifest. The 
 
APP.] 
 
 TREATIES AND CONVENTIONS. 
 
 317 
 
 captain or commander shall certify the manifest to be a true account 
 of all the cargo and stores on board the ship, and shall sign his name 
 to the same. 
 
 If any error is discovered in the manifest, it may be corrected within 
 twenty-four hours (Sundays excepted) without the payment of any fee, 
 but for any alteration or post entry to the manifest made after that 
 time, a fee of fifteen dollars shall be paid. 
 
 All goods not entered on the manifest shall pay double duties on 
 being landed. 
 
 Any captain or commander that shall neglect to enter his vessel at 
 the Japanese Custom-house within the time prescribed by this regula- 
 tion, shall pay a penalty of sixty dollars for each day that he shall so 
 neglect to enter his ship. 
 
 II. The Japanese Government shall have the right to place Custom- 
 house officers on board of any ship in their ports (men-of-war excepted). 
 All Custom-house officers shall be treated with civility, and such 
 reasonable accommodation shall be allotted to them as the ship 
 affords. 
 
 No goods shall be unladen from any ship between the hours of sunset 
 and sunrise, except by special permission of the Custom-house 
 authorities ; and the hatches, and all other places of entrance into 
 that part of the ship where the cargo is stowed, may be secured by 
 Japanese officers between the hours of sunset and sunrise, by fixing- 
 seals, locks, or other fastenings ; and if any person shall, without due 
 permission, open any entrance that has been so secured, or shall break 
 or remove any seal, lock, or other fastening that has been affixed by 
 the Japanese Custom-house officers, every person so offending shall 
 pay a fine of sixty dollars for each offence. 
 
 Any goods that shall be discharged, or attempted to be discharged, 
 from any ship, without being duly entered at the Japanese Custom- 
 house, as hereinafter provided, shall be liable to seizure and con- 
 fiscation. 
 
 Packages of goods made up with an intent to defraud the revenue 
 of Japan, by concealing therein articles of value which are not set forth 
 in the invoice, shall be forfeited. 
 
 If any British ship shall smuggle, or attempt to smuggle, goods in 
 any of the non-opened harbours of Japan, all such goods shall be 
 forfeited to the Japanese Government, and the ship shall pay a fine 
 of one thousand dollars for each offence. 
 
 Vessels needing repairs may land their cargo for that purpose, 
 without the payment of duty. All goods so landed shall remain in 
 charge of the Japanese authorities, and all just charges for storage, 
 labour, and supervision shall be paid thereon. But if any portion of 
 such cargo be sold, the regular duties shall be paid on the portion so 
 disposed of. 
 
318 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [a IT. 
 
 Cargo may be transhipped to another vessel in the same harbour 
 without payment of duty ; but all transhipments shall be made under 
 the supervision of Japanese officers, and after satisfactory proof has 
 been given to the Custom-house authorities of the oond fide nature of 
 the transaction, and also under a permit to be granted for that purpose 
 by such authorities. 
 
 The importation of opium being prohibited, any British vessel 
 coming to Japan for the purposes of trade, and having more than 
 three catties’ weight of opium on board, the surplus quantity may be 
 seized and destroyed by the Japanese authorities ; and any person or 
 persons smuggling, or attempting to smuggle opium, shall be liable 
 to pay a fine of fifteen dollars for each catty of opium so smuggled or 
 attempted to be smuggled. 
 
 III. The owner, or consignee of any goods who desires to land them, 
 shall make an entry of the same at the Japanese Custom-house. The 
 entry shall be in writing, and shall set forth the name of the i^erson 
 making the entry, and the name of the ship in which the goods were 
 imported, and the marks, numbers, packages, and the contents thereof, 
 with the value of each package extended, separately in one amount, 
 and at the bottom of the entry shall be placed the aggregate value of 
 all the goods contained in the entry. On each entry, the owner or 
 consignee shall certifiy in writing that the entry then presented 
 exhibits the actual cost of the goods, and that nothing has been con- 
 cealed whereby the Customs of Japan would be defrauded, and the 
 owner or consignee shall sign his name to such certificate. 
 
 The original invoice or invoices of the goods so entered shall be 
 ju’esented to the Custom-house authorities, and shall remain in their 
 possession until they have examined the goods contained in the entry. 
 
 The Japanese officers may examine any or all the packages so 
 entered, and for this purpose may take them to the Custom-house ; 
 but such examination shall be without expense to the importer or 
 injury to the goods, and, after examination, the Japanese shall restore 
 the goods to their original condition in the packages (so far as may be 
 practicable), and such examination shall be made without any un- 
 reasonable delay. 
 
 If any owner or importer discovers that his goods have been 
 damaged on the voyage of importation before such goods have been 
 delivered to him, he may notify the Custom-house authorities of such 
 damage, and he may have the damaged goods appraised by two or 
 more competent and disinterested persons, who, after due examina- 
 tion, shall make a certificate, setting forth the amount per cent, of 
 damage on each separate package, describing it by its mark and 
 number, which certificate shall be signed by the appraisers, in presence 
 of the Custom-house authorities, and the importer may attach the 
 certificate to his entry, and make a corresponding deduction from it. 
 
TREATIES AND CONVENTIONS. 
 
 319 
 
 APP.] 
 
 But this shall not prevent the Custom-house authorities from apprais- 
 ing the goods in the manner provided in Article XV. of the Treaty 
 to which these Eegulations are appended. 
 
 After the duties have been paid, the owner shall receive a permit, 
 authorising the delivery to him of the goods, whether the same are 
 at the Custom-house or on shipboard. 
 
 All goods intended to be exported shall be entered at the Japanese 
 custom-house before they are placed on shipboard. 
 
 The entry shall be in writing, and shall state the name of the ship 
 by which the goods are to be exported, with the marks and numbers 
 of the packages, and the quantity, description, and value of their 
 contents. 
 
 The exporter shall certify, in writing, that the entry is a true 
 account of all the goods contained therein, and shall sign his name 
 thereto. 
 
 Any goods that are put on board of a ship for exportation before 
 they have been entered at the Custom-house, and all packages 
 which contain prohibited articles, shall be forfeited to the Japanese 
 Government. 
 
 No entry at the Custom-house shall be required for supplies for 
 the use of ships, their crews and passengers, nor for the clothing, etc., 
 of passengers. 
 
 lY. Ships wishing to clear shall give twenty-four hours’ notice at 
 the Custom-house, and at the end of that time they shall be entitled 
 to their clearance ; but if it be refused, the Custom-house authorities 
 shall immediately inform the captain or consignee of the ship of the 
 reasons why the clearance is refused; and they shall also give the 
 same notice to the British Consul. 
 
 British ships of war shall not be required to enter or clear at the 
 Custom-house, nor shall they be visited by Japanese Custom-house 
 or police officers. 
 
 Steamers carrying the mails of Great Britain may enter and clear 
 on the same day, and they shall not be required to make a manifest, 
 except for such passengers and goods as are to be landed in Japan. 
 But such steamers shall, in all cases, enter and clear at the Custom- 
 house. 
 
 Whale ships touching for supplies, or ships in distress, shall not be 
 required to make a mauifest of their cargo ; but if they subsequently 
 wish to trade, they shall then deposit a manifest, as required in 
 Eegulation I. 
 
 The word “ ship,” wherever it occurs in these Eegulations, or in 
 the Treaty to which they are attached, is to be held as meaning ship, 
 barque, brig, schooner, sloop, or steamer. 
 
 V. Any person signing a false declaration or certificate, with the 
 intent to defraud the revenue of Japan, shall pay a fine of one 
 hundred and twenty-five dollars for each offence. 
 
320 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [app. 
 
 VI. No tonnage duties shall be levied on British ships in the ports 
 of Japan, but the following fees shall be paid to the Japanese Custom- 
 house authorities : — For the entry of a ship, fifteen dollars ; for the 
 clearance of a shi]}, seven dollars ; for each permit, one dollar and a 
 half ; for each bill of health, one dollar and a half ; for any other 
 document, one dollar and a half. 
 
 VII. Duties shall be paid to the Japanese Government on all goods 
 landed in the country, according to the following Tariff : — 
 
 Class I. All articles in this class shall be free of duty : — Gold and 
 silver, coined or uncoined ; wearing apparel in actual use ; household 
 furniture and printed books, not intended for sale, but the property 
 of persons who come to reside in Japan. 
 
 Class II. A duty of five per cent, shall be paid on the following 
 articles : — All articles used for the purpose of building, rigging, 
 repairing, or fitting out of ships, whaling gear of all kinds, salted 
 provisions of all kinds, bread and breadstuff's, living animals of all 
 kinds, coals, timber for building houses, rice, paddy, steam-machinery, 
 zinc, lead, tin, raw silk, cotton and woollen manufactured goods. 
 
 Class III. A duty of thirty-five per cent, shall be paid on all 
 intoxicating liquors, whether prepared by distillation, fermentation, 
 or in any other manner. 
 
 Class IV. All goods not included in any of the preceding classes 
 shall pay a duty of twenty per cent. 
 
 All articles of Japanese production which are exported as cargo 
 shall pay a duty of five per cent., with the exception of gold and 
 silver coin, and copper in bars. 
 
 Eice and wheat, the produce of Japan, shall not be exported from 
 Japan as cargo, but all British subjects resident in Japan, and British 
 ships for their crews and passengers, shall be furnished with sufficient 
 supplies of the same. 
 
 Foreign grain brought into any open port of Japan in a British 
 ship, if no part thereof has been landed, may be re-exported without 
 hindrance. 
 
 The Japanese Government will sell from time to time, at public 
 auction, any surplus quantity of copi^er that may be produced. 
 
 Five years after the opening of Kanagawa, the import and export 
 duties shall be subject to revision, if either the British or Japanese 
 Government desires it. 
 
 Elgin and Kincardine. 
 
 Milzuno Chikugo no Kami. 
 
 Nagai Gemba no Kami. 
 
 1 NODYE ShINANO NO KaMI. 
 
 Hoki Oribei no Sho. 
 
 Iwase Higo no Kami. 
 
 Tsuda Hanzaburo. 
 
APP.] 
 
 TBEATIES AND CONVENTIONS. 
 
 321 
 
 TAKIFF CONVENTION, 
 
 Signed at Yedo, in the English, French, Dutch, and Japanese 
 Languages, on the 25^7i day of June 1866. 
 
 The Representatives of Great Britain, France, of the United States of 
 America, and Holland, having received from their respective Govern- 
 ments identical instructions for the modification of the Tariff of 
 Import and Export Unties contained in the Trade Eegnlations 
 annexed to the Treaties concluded by the aforesaid Powers with the 
 Japanese Government in 1858, which modification is provided for by 
 the Vllth of those Eegnlations ; 
 
 And the Japanese Government having given the said Eepresenta- 
 tives, during their visit to Osaka, in November 1865, a written 
 engagement to proceed immediately to the Eevision of the Tariff in 
 question, on the general basis of a duty of five per cent, on the value 
 of all articles imported or exported ; 
 
 And the Government of Japan being desirous of affording a fresh 
 proof of their wish to promote trade, and to cement the friendly 
 relations which exist between their country and foreign nations ; 
 
 Ilis Excellency Midzuno Idzumi no Kami, a Member of the Gorojiu 
 and a Minister of Foreign Affairs, has been furnished by the Govern- 
 ment of Japan with the necessary powers to conclude with the repre- 
 sentatives of the above-named four Powers, that is to say — 
 
 Of Great Britain, Sir Haery S. Parkes, Knight Commander of the 
 Most Honourable Order of the Bath, Her Britannic Majesty’s Envoy 
 Extraordinary and Minister Pleni23otentiary in Japan; Of France, 
 Monsieur Leon Roches, Commander of the Imperial Order of the 
 Legion of Honour, Minister Plenipotentiary of His Majesty the 
 Emperor of the French in Japan ; Of the United States of America, 
 A. L. C. PoRTMAN, Esquire, Charge d’Affaires ad interim ; And of 
 Holland, Monsieur Dirk de Graeff van Polsbroek, Knight of the 
 Order of the Netherlands Lion, Political Agent and Consul General of 
 His Majesty the King of the Netherlands — 
 
 The following Convention, comprising Twelve Articles. 
 
 I. The contracting Parties declare, in the names of their respective 
 Governments, that they accept, and they hereby do formally accept 
 as binding upon the subjects of their respective Sovereigns, and the 
 citizens of their respective countries, the Tariff hereby established, 
 and annexed to the present Convention. 
 
 This Tariff is substituted not only for the original Tariff attached 
 to the Treaties concluded with the above-named four Powers, but also 
 for the special Conventions and arrangements relative to the same 
 Tariff, which had been entered into at different dates up to this time, 
 VOL. II. Y 
 
322 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [app. 
 
 between the Governments of Great Britain, France, and tlie United 
 States on one side, and the Japanese Government on the other. 
 
 The New Tarijff shall come into effect in the port of Kanagawa 
 (Yokohama) on the first day of July next, and in the ports of Naga- 
 saki and Hakodate on the first day of the following month. 
 
 II. The Tariff attached to this Convention being incorporated from 
 the date of its signature in the Treaties concluded between Japan and 
 the above-named four Powers, is subject to revision on the fii’st day of 
 July 1872. 
 
 Two years, however, after the signing of the present Convention, 
 any of the contracting parties, on giving six months’ notice to the 
 others, may claim a readjustment of the duties on tea and silk, on the 
 basis of five per cent, on the average value of these articles during 
 the three years last preceding. On the demand also of any of the 
 contracting parties, the duty on timber may be changed from an 
 ad valorem to a specific rate six months after the signature of this 
 Convention. 
 
 III. The permit fee hitherto levied under the YIth Eegulation 
 attached to the above-named Treaties is hereby abolished. Permits 
 for the landing or shipment of cargo wdll be required as formerly, but 
 will hereafter be issued free of charge. 
 
 IV. On and from the first day of July next, at the port of Kanagawa 
 (Y^okohama), and on and from the first day of October next at the 
 ports of Nagasaki and Hakodate, the Japanese Government will be 
 prepared to warehouse imj^orted goods on the ai^plication of the 
 importer or owmer without payment of duty. The Japanese Govern- 
 ment will be responsible for the safe custody of the goods, so long 
 as they remain in their charge, and will adopt all the precautions 
 necessary to render them insurable against fire. When the importer 
 or the owner wishes to remove the goods from the warehouse, he must 
 pay the duties fixed by the Tariff ; but if he should wish to re-export 
 them, he may do so without payment of duty. Storage charges will 
 in either case be paid on delivery of the goods. The amount of 
 these charges, together w ith the regulations necessary for the manage- 
 ment of the said warehouses, will be established by the common con- 
 sent of the contracting parties. 
 
 V. All articles of Japanese production may be conveyed from any 
 place in Japan to any of the ports open to foreign trade, free of any 
 tax or transit duty other tlian the usual tolls levied equally on all 
 traffic for the maintenance of roads or navigation. 
 
 VI. In conformity with those Articles of the Treaties concluded 
 betw^een Japan and Foreign Powers wiiich stipulate for the circulation 
 of foreign coin at its corresponding weight in native coin of the same 
 description, dollars have hitherto been received at the Japanese Custom- 
 house in payment of duties at their weight in Boos (commonly called 
 
TREATIES AND CONVENTIONS. 
 
 323 
 
 Arp.] 
 
 Ichiboos), thfit is to say, at a rate of Three Hundred and Eleven Boos 
 per Hundred Dollars. The Japanese Government being, however, 
 desirous to alter this practice, and to abstain from all interference in 
 the exchange of native for foreign coin, and being also anxious to meet 
 the wants both of native and foreign commerce by securing an 
 adequate issue of native coin, have already determined to enlarge the 
 Japanese Mint, so as to admit of the Japanese Government exchanging 
 into native coin of the same intrinsic value, less only the cost of coinage, 
 at the places named for this purpose, all foreign coin or bullion in gold 
 or silver that may at any time be tendered to them by foreigners or 
 Japanese. It being essential, however, to the execution of this measure, 
 that the various Powers with whom Japan has concluded Treaties 
 should first consent to modify the stipulations in those Treaties which 
 relate to the currency, the Japanese Government will at once propose 
 to those Powers the adoption of the necessary modification in the said 
 stipulations, and on receiving their concurrence will be prepared, from 
 the first of January 1868, to carry the above measure into effect. 
 
 The rates to be charged as the cost of coinage shall be determined 
 hereafter by the common consent of the contracting parties. 
 
 VII. In order to put a stop to certain abuses and inconveniences 
 complained of at the open ports, relative to the transaction of business 
 at the Custom-house, the landing and shipping of cargoes, and the 
 hiring of boats, coolies, servants, etc., the contracting parties have 
 agreed that the Governor at each open port shall at once enter into 
 negotiations with the foreign Consuls, with a view to the establish- 
 ment, by mutual consent, of such regulations as shall effectually put 
 an end to these abuses and inconveniences, and afford all possible 
 facility and security, both to the operations of trade and to the trans- 
 actions of individuals. 
 
 It is hereby stipulated that, in order to protect merchandise from 
 exposure to weather, these regulations shall include the covering in at 
 each port of one or more of the landing-places used by foreigners for 
 landing or shipping cargo. 
 
 VIII. Any Japanese subject shall be free to purchase, either in the 
 open ports of Japan or abroad, every description of sailing or steam 
 vessel intended to carry either passengers or cargo ; but ships of war 
 may only be obtained under the authorisation of the Japanese 
 Government. 
 
 All foreign vessels imrchased by Japanese subjects shall be registered 
 as Japanese vessels, on payment of a fixed duty of three boos per ton 
 for steamers, and one boo per ton for sailing vessels. The tonnage of 
 each vessel shall be proved by the foreign register of the ship, which 
 shall be exhibited through the Consul of the party interested on the 
 demand of the Japanese authorities, and shall be certified by the 
 Consul as authentic. 
 
 Y 2 
 
324 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [app. 
 
 IX. In conformity with the Treaties concluded between Japan and 
 the aforesaid Powers, and with the special arrangements made by the 
 Envoys of the Japanese Government in their note to the British 
 Government of the sixth of June 1862, and in their note to the 
 French Government of the sixth of October of the same year, all the 
 restrictions on trade and intercourse between foreigners and Japanese 
 alluded to in the said notes have been entirely removed, and pro- 
 clamations to this effect have already been published by the Govern- 
 ment of Japan. 
 
 The latter, however, do not hesitate to declare that Japanese 
 merchants and traders of all classes are at liberty to trade directly, 
 and without the interference of Government ofiScers, with foreign 
 merchants, not only at the open ports of Japan, but also in all foreign 
 countries, on being authorised to leave their country in the manner 
 provided for in Article X. of the present Convention, without being 
 subject to higher taxation by the Japanese Government than levied on 
 the native trading classes in Japan in their ordinary transactions with 
 each other. 
 
 And they further declare that all daimios or persons in the employ 
 of daimios are free to visit, on the same conditions, any foreign 
 country, as well as all the open ports of Japan, and to trade there with 
 foreigners as they please, without the interference of any Japanese 
 officer, provided always they submit to the existing police regulations, 
 and to the payment of the established duties. 
 
 X. All Japanese subjects may shij) goods to or from any open port 
 in Japan, or to and from the ports of any foreigu Power, either in 
 vessels owned by Japanese or in the vessels of any nation having a 
 Treaty with Japan. Furthermore, on being provided with passports 
 through the proper department of the Government, in the manner 
 specified in the Proclamation of the Japanese Government, dated the 
 twenty-third day of May 1866, all Japanese subjects may travel to 
 any foreign country for purposes of study or trade. They may also 
 accept employment in any capacity on board the vessels of any nation 
 having a Treaty with Japan. 
 
 Japanese in the emi^loy of foreigners may obtain Government 
 passports to go abroad on application to the Governor of any open 
 port. 
 
 XI. The Government of Japan will provide all the ports open to 
 foreign trade with such lights, buoys, or beacons as may be necessary 
 to render secure the navigation of the apj^roaches to the said ports. 
 
 XII. The undersigned being of opinion that it is unnecessary that 
 this Convention should be submitted to their respective Governments 
 for ratification before it comes into operation, it will take effect on 
 and from the first day of July, one thousand eight hundred and sixty- 
 six. 
 
App.] TREATIES AND CONVENTIONS. 325 
 
 Each of the Contracting Parties having obtained the approval of his 
 Government to this Convention, shall make known the same to the 
 others, and the communication in writing of this approval shall take 
 the place of a formal exchange of ratifications. 
 
 In Witness whekeof the above-named Plenipotentiaries have 
 signed the present Convention, and have affixed thereto their seals. 
 
 Done at Yedo, in the English, French, Dutch, and Japanese 
 languages, this twenty-fifth day of June, one thousand eight hundred 
 sixty-six. 
 
 (L. S.) 
 
 Harry S. Parkes, 
 
 Her Britannic Majesty’s Envoy Extraordinary 
 and Minister Plenipotentiary in Japan. 
 
 (L. S.) 
 
 Leon Eoches, 
 
 Ministre PUnipotentiaire de S. M. VEmpereur 
 des Fran^ais au Japon. 
 
 (L. S.) 
 
 A. L. C. PORTMAN, 
 
 Charge d’Affaires a. i. of the United States 
 in Japan. 
 
 (L. S.) 
 
 D. DE GrAEFF VAN POLSBROEK, 
 Politick Agent en Consul Oeneraal der Neder- 
 landen in Japan. 
 
 (L. S.) 
 
 Midzuno Idzdmi NO Kami. 
 
326 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [app. 
 
 LIST OF EMPERORS. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Date, beginning 
 with the 
 Emperor Jimmu. 
 
 Date, beginning 
 with Christian Era. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Date, beginning 
 with the 
 Emperor Jimmu. 
 
 Date, beginning 
 with Christian Ei*a. 
 
 Jimmu .... 
 
 1 
 
 B.c. 660 1 
 
 Suslmu .... 
 
 1248 
 
 1 
 
 ! 588 
 
 Suisei .... 
 
 79 
 
 581 i 
 
 Suiko (Empress) . 
 
 1253 
 
 593 
 
 Amiei .... 
 
 112 
 
 548 1 
 
 Jomei .... 
 
 : 1289 
 
 629 
 
 Itoku .... 
 
 150 
 
 510 i 
 
 Kokioku *"1 
 
 
 
 Koshio .... 
 
 185 
 
 475 i 
 
 (Empress)/ ' ’ ^ 
 
 1 X%j\)u 
 
 
 Koan .... 
 
 268 
 
 392 ' 
 
 Kotoku .... 
 
 1305 
 
 645 
 
 Korei .... 
 
 370 
 
 290 ' 
 
 Saimei * (Empress) 
 
 1315 
 
 655 
 
 Kogeii .... 
 
 416 
 
 214 
 
 Tenji . . . . | 
 
 1328 
 
 668 
 
 Kaikua .... 
 
 503 
 
 157 ! 
 
 Kobun . . . . 1 
 
 1332 
 
 672 
 
 Sujin .... 
 
 563 
 
 97 1 
 
 Tern mil. ... 
 
 1333 
 
 673 
 
 Suiuin .... 
 
 629 
 
 31 
 
 Jito (Empress) . , 
 
 1350 
 
 690 
 
 Keiko .... 
 
 731 
 
 A D. 71 ! 
 
 Mommu . . . j 
 
 1357 
 
 697 
 
 Seimu .... 
 
 791 
 
 ! 131 
 
 Gemmei (Empress) | 
 
 1368 j 
 
 708 
 
 Cliuai .... 
 
 852 
 
 192 
 
 Gensho (Empress) 
 
 1375 
 
 715 
 
 J ingu (Empress) . 
 
 861 
 
 201 
 
 Shomii .... I 
 
 1384 
 
 724 
 
 OJiii 
 
 930 
 
 270 
 
 Koken f (Empress) : 
 
 1409 ! 
 
 749 
 
 Nintoku 
 
 j 973 
 
 313 
 
 Jimjin .... 
 
 1419 
 
 759 
 
 Ricliiu .... 
 
 ! 1060 
 
 400 
 
 Shotoku t 1 
 
 
 
 Hansbo .... 
 
 i 1065 
 
 405 i 
 
 (Empress) j 
 
 1 
 
 / oo 
 
 Inkiyo .... 
 
 1 1071 
 
 411 ! 
 
 Ivoniu .... 
 
 1430 1 
 
 770 
 
 Auko .... 
 
 I 1113 
 
 453 
 
 [ Kuwammu ... 
 
 1442 1 
 
 782 
 
 Yariaku 
 
 1116 
 
 456 
 
 Heizei .... 
 
 1466 
 
 806 
 
 Seine! .... 
 
 1140 
 
 480 1 
 
 Saga ; 
 
 1470 i 
 
 810 
 
 Kenso .... 
 
 1145 
 
 485 i 
 
 1 Juima . . . . i 
 
 1484 i 
 
 824 
 
 Niuken .... 
 
 1148 
 
 488 1 
 
 Nimmio ... 
 
 1494 ' 
 
 834 
 
 Buretsu. 
 
 1159 
 
 499 
 
 1 Montoku ... 
 
 1511 j 
 
 851 
 
 Keitai .... 
 
 1167 
 
 507 i 
 
 Seiwa . . . . | 
 
 1519 
 
 859 
 
 Ankau .... 
 
 1194 
 
 534 
 
 Yozei .... 
 
 1537 I 
 
 877 
 
 Seiikuwa . 
 
 ]196 
 
 536 ! 
 
 Koko .... 
 
 1545 ' 
 
 885 
 
 Kimmei 
 
 1200 
 
 540 : 
 
 Uda 1 
 
 1553 1 
 
 893 
 
 Bitatsu .... 
 
 1232 
 
 572 ! 
 
 Daigo . . . . 1 
 
 1558 i 
 
 898 
 
 Yomei .... 
 
 1246 
 
 1 586 i 
 
 Sliujaku . . . 1 
 
 1591 ! 
 
 931 
 
 * The names thus marked belonged to the same empress, who reigned twice. 
 See vol. i. }>. 108. 
 
 t The names thus marked likewise belonged to the same empress. See vol. i. 
 
 p. no. 
 
LIST OF EMFEROBS. 
 
 327 
 
 Al'P.] 
 
 Name. 
 
 Date, beginning 
 with the 
 Emperor Jimmu. 
 
 Date, beginning 
 with Christian Era. 
 
 Name. 
 
 i 
 
 Date, beginning 
 with the 
 Emperor Jimmu. 
 
 Date, beginning 
 with Christian Era. 
 
 Murakami . 
 
 1607 
 
 947 
 
 SOUTHERN DYNASTV. 
 
 
 1 
 
 Reizei .... 
 
 1628 
 
 968 
 
 Go-Murakami . 
 
 1999 
 
 1 1339 
 
 Enijiu .... 
 
 1630 
 
 970 
 
 Go-Kameyama. 
 
 2028 
 
 1368 
 
 Kuwazan . 
 
 1645 
 
 985 
 
 
 
 
 Ichijo .... 
 
 1649 
 
 987 
 
 NORTHERN DYNASTY. 
 
 
 
 Sanjo .... 
 
 1672 
 
 1012 
 
 Komio .... 
 
 1996 
 
 1336 
 
 Go-’ichijo * . 
 
 1677 
 
 1017 
 
 Sbuko .... 
 
 2009 
 
 1349 
 
 Go-Slmjaku 
 
 1697 
 
 1037 
 
 Go-Kuwoogen . 
 
 2012 
 
 1352 
 
 Go-Eeizei . 
 
 1706 
 
 1046 
 
 Go-Enyu 
 
 2032 
 
 1372 
 
 Go-Sanjo . 
 
 1729 
 
 1069 
 
 Go-Komatsii . 
 
 2053 
 
 1393 
 
 Shirakawa ... 
 
 1783 
 
 1073 
 
 Go-Komatsu . 
 
 2053 
 
 1393 
 
 Horikawa ... 
 
 1747 
 
 1087 
 
 Sboko .... 
 
 2073 
 
 1413 
 
 Toba .... 
 
 1769 
 
 1108 
 
 Go-Hanazono . 
 
 2089 
 
 1429 
 
 Shutoku ... 
 
 1784 
 
 1124 
 
 Go-Tsiicl 1 i-Mikado 
 
 2125 
 
 1465 
 
 Konoye. ... 
 
 1802 
 
 1142 
 
 Go-Kasliiwabara . 
 
 2161 
 
 1501 
 
 Go-Shiraka\va . 
 
 1816 
 
 1156 
 
 Go-Nara 
 
 2187 
 
 1527 
 
 Nigo .... 
 
 1819 
 
 1159 
 
 Oki-Maclii ... 
 
 2218 
 
 1558 
 
 Rokiijio 
 
 1826 
 
 1166 
 
 Go-Yozei ... 
 
 2247 
 
 1587 
 
 Takakiira . 
 
 1829 
 
 1160 
 
 Go-Miwo ... 
 
 2272 
 
 1612 
 
 Antoku .... 
 
 1841 
 
 1181 
 
 Mioslio (Empress). 
 
 2290 i 
 
 1630 
 
 Go-Toba ... 
 
 1846 
 
 1186 
 
 Go-Komio . 
 
 2304 
 
 1644 
 
 Tsuclii-Mikado 
 
 1859 
 
 1199 
 
 Gozai-in ... 
 
 2315 j 
 
 1655 
 
 Juiitoku . . . ! 
 
 1871 
 
 1211 
 
 Reigen .... 
 
 2323 1 
 
 1663 
 
 Cliukio .... 
 
 1881 
 
 1221 
 
 Higasbiyama . 
 
 2347 
 
 1687 
 
 Go- Horikawa . 
 
 1881 
 
 1221 
 
 Naka-Mikado . 
 
 2370 1 
 
 1710 
 
 Shijo . . . . i 
 
 1891 
 
 1231 
 
 Sakura-Machi . 
 
 2396 1 
 
 1736 
 
 Go-Saga . . . ; 
 
 1904 
 
 1244 
 
 Momozouo . 
 
 2407 1 
 
 1747 
 
 Go-Fukakusa . . i 
 
 1907 
 
 1247 
 
 Go - Sakura-Machi 
 
 1 
 
 
 Kameyama. . . I 
 
 1926 
 
 1266 
 
 (Empress) . 
 
 2423 1 
 
 1763 
 
 Go-Uda. ... 
 
 1930 
 
 1270 
 
 Go-Momozono . 
 
 2431 t 
 
 1771 
 
 Fushimi . . . i 
 
 1948 
 
 1288 
 
 Kokaku. 
 
 2440 j 
 
 1780 
 
 Go-Fiisliimi . . i 
 
 1950 
 
 1299 
 
 Niako .... 
 
 2477 
 
 1817 
 
 Go-Nijo. . . . ; 
 
 1961 
 
 1301 
 
 Komei .... 
 
 2507 
 
 1847 
 
 Hanazono . . . ; 
 
 1968 
 
 1308 
 
 Mutsu - Hito (the 
 
 
 
 Go-Daigo ... 
 
 1979 
 
 1319 
 
 present Emperor) 
 
 2527 
 
 1 
 
 1867 
 
 Equivalent to “ Ichijo the Second.” See footnote, vol. i. p. 112. 
 
328 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [app. 
 
 LIST OF YEAK-PEEIODS. 
 
 The Japanese have two modes of reckoning time in years: one hy means 
 of 12 year cycles, named after the twelve signs of the Japanese Zodiac ; 
 the other by means of short periods of arbitrary length, varying from one 
 to twenty years, or even more. Each of these latter periods is dis- 
 tinguished by a name given by the Mikado. The present one {Meiji) 
 commenced Oct. 12, 1868. 
 
 Name, 
 
 Taikiia . 
 Hakuchi 
 Sujaka . 
 llakulio 
 Shuclio . 
 Taikua . . 
 
 Taicho . 
 Taiho . 
 Kei-un . 
 Wado . 
 
 Hoki . . 
 
 Yozo 
 J inki 
 Tenpio . 
 Tenpio Slioho 
 Tenpio Hoji 
 Tenpio Jingo 
 Jingo Kei-un 
 Hoki . . 
 
 Teno 
 
 Yenriyaku . 
 Dnido . 
 Kuonin . 
 Tenclio 
 Jowa 
 Kaslio . 
 Nin-ju . 
 
 Saiko . 
 Tenan . 
 Jokiian . 
 
 Ninna . 
 
 Date, beginning 
 with the 
 Emperor Jimmu. 
 
 Date, beginning 
 with Christian Era. 
 
 , Name. 
 
 Date, beginning 
 with the 
 Emperor Jimmu. 
 
 Date, beginning 
 with Christian Era. 
 
 1805 
 
 615 
 
 Kuanpei 
 
 
 1519 
 
 889 
 
 1810 
 
 650 
 
 Shiotai . 
 
 
 1558 
 
 898 
 
 1882 
 
 672 
 
 Yengi . 
 
 
 1561 
 
 901 
 
 1888 
 
 678 
 
 : Yenclio . 
 
 
 1588 
 
 923 
 
 1816 
 
 686 
 
 I Shioliei . 
 
 
 1591 
 
 931 
 
 1855 
 
 695 
 
 j Tengio . 
 
 
 1598 
 
 938 
 
 1857 
 
 697 
 
 j I’en Riyaku 
 
 
 1607 
 
 917 
 
 1861 
 
 701 
 
 , Tentoku 
 
 
 1617 
 
 957 
 
 1862 
 
 701 
 
 i Wowa . 
 
 
 1621 
 
 961 
 
 1868 
 
 708 
 
 ! Kobo . . 
 
 
 1621 
 
 961 
 
 1875 
 
 715 
 
 Anwa . 
 
 
 1628 
 
 968 
 
 1877 
 
 717 
 
 , Tenroku 
 
 
 1680 
 
 970 
 
 1881 
 
 721 
 
 j Tenyen . 
 
 
 1683 
 
 973 
 
 1889 
 
 729 
 
 1 Jogen . 
 
 
 1636 
 
 976 
 
 1109 
 
 719 
 
 Tengeu . 
 
 
 1688 
 
 978 
 
 1117 
 
 757 
 
 Yeikuan 
 
 
 1613 
 
 988 
 
 1125 
 
 765 
 
 [ Kuanwa 
 
 
 1615 
 
 985 
 
 1127 
 
 767 
 
 Yeiyen . 
 
 
 1617 
 
 987 
 
 1180 
 
 770 
 
 Yeiso 
 
 
 1619 
 
 989 
 
 1111 
 
 781 
 
 Sidoriyaku . 
 
 
 1650 
 
 990 
 
 1112 
 
 782 
 
 Chotoku 
 
 
 1655 
 
 995 
 
 1166 
 
 806 
 
 1 C hollo . 
 
 
 1659 
 
 999 
 
 1170 
 
 810 
 
 Knanko . 
 
 
 1661 
 
 1001 
 
 1181 
 
 821 
 
 Chowa . 
 
 . 
 
 1672 
 
 1012 
 
 1191 
 
 881 
 
 Kuan nil! . 
 
 ! 
 
 1677 ' 
 
 1017 
 
 1508 
 
 818 
 
 Chian . 
 
 
 1681 
 
 1021 
 
 1511 
 
 851 
 
 Manju . 
 
 • i 
 
 1681 1 
 
 1021 
 
 1511 
 
 851 ' 
 
 Cliogen . 
 
 1 
 
 • I 
 
 1688 1 
 
 1028 
 
 1517 
 
 857 ; 
 
 Clioriyaku . 
 
 • j 
 
 1697 
 
 1037 
 
 1519 
 
 859 
 
 CJiokiu . 
 
 
 1700 1 
 
 1010 
 
 1587 
 
 877 
 
 Kuantokii . 
 
 
 1701 
 
 1011 
 
 1515 1 
 
 885 
 
 Y enjo 
 
 i 
 
 1706 
 
 1016 
 
APP.] 
 
 LIST OF YEAR-PERIODS. 
 
 329 
 
 Name. 
 
 .2 ^ c 
 
 o 
 
 QJ ^ ^ 
 
 C3 Oi 
 
 Q 2 
 
 w 
 
 03 
 
 bO^ 
 
 oTS 
 
 Name. 
 
 Tenki . 
 
 
 
 
 1713 
 
 1053 
 
 Kenyei . 
 
 
 1866 
 
 1206 
 
 Koliei . 
 
 
 
 
 1718 
 
 1058 
 
 Shogen . 
 
 
 1867 
 
 1207 
 
 Chiriyaku 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 1725 
 
 1065 
 
 Keuriyaku 
 
 
 1871 
 
 1211 
 
 Yenkiu . 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 1729 
 
 1069 ^ 
 
 Keupo . 
 
 
 1873 
 
 1213 
 
 J oho 
 
 
 
 
 1731 
 
 1071 
 
 Jokiu . 
 
 
 1879 
 
 1219 
 
 Joriyaku 
 
 
 
 
 1737 
 
 1077 
 
 Jowo 
 
 
 1882 
 
 1222 
 
 Yeiho . 
 
 
 
 
 1711 
 
 1081 
 
 Gennin . 
 
 
 1884 
 
 1224 
 
 Otoku . 
 
 
 
 
 1711 
 
 1081 
 
 Karoku . 
 
 
 1885 
 
 1225 
 
 Kuauji . 
 
 
 
 
 1717 
 
 1087 
 
 Antei . 
 
 
 1887 
 
 1227 
 
 Kalio 
 
 
 
 
 1751 
 
 1091 
 
 Kuaiiki . 
 
 
 1889 
 
 1229 
 
 Yeicho . 
 
 
 
 
 1756 
 
 1096 
 
 1 Joyei 
 
 
 1892 
 
 1232 
 
 SI 1 otoku 
 
 
 
 
 1757 
 
 1097 
 
 ' Tenpuku 
 
 
 1893 
 
 1233 
 
 Kowa . 
 
 
 
 
 1759 
 
 1099 
 
 Bunriyaku 
 
 
 1894 
 
 1234 
 
 Choji . 
 
 
 
 
 1761 
 
 1101 
 
 Katei . 
 
 
 1895 
 
 1235 
 
 Kajo 
 Tennin . 
 
 
 
 
 1766 
 
 1106 
 
 ! liiyakunin 
 
 
 1898 
 
 1238 
 
 
 
 
 1768 
 
 1108 i 
 
 Yenwo . 
 
 
 1899 
 
 1239 
 
 Tenyei . 
 
 
 
 
 1770 
 
 1110 1 
 
 Ninji 
 
 
 1900 
 
 1240 
 
 Ycikiu . 
 
 
 
 
 1773 
 
 1113 1 
 
 ' Kuangeu 
 
 
 1903 
 
 1243 
 
 Genyei . 
 
 
 
 
 1778 
 
 1118 1 
 
 : Hoji. . 
 
 
 1907 
 
 1247 
 
 Ho-an . 
 
 
 
 
 1780 
 
 1120 ^ 
 
 Kencho . 
 
 
 1909 
 
 1249 
 
 Tenji . 
 
 
 
 
 1781 
 
 1121 1 
 
 ' Kogeii . 
 
 
 1916 
 
 1256 
 
 Daiji 
 Tensho . 
 
 
 
 
 1786 
 
 1126 
 
 Shoka . 
 
 
 1917 
 
 1257 
 
 
 
 
 1791 
 
 1131 
 
 Shogen . 
 
 
 1919 
 
 1259 
 
 Clioslio . 
 
 
 
 
 1792 
 
 1132 
 
 Bunwo . 
 
 
 1920 
 
 1260 
 
 Hoyen . 
 
 
 
 
 1795 
 
 1135 
 
 Kocho . 
 
 
 1921 
 
 1261 
 
 Yeiji 
 
 
 
 
 1801 
 
 1111 
 
 Bunyei . 
 Kenji . 
 
 
 1924 
 
 1264 
 
 Koji. . 
 Tenyo . 
 Kiuan . 
 
 
 
 
 1802 
 
 1112 
 
 
 1935 
 
 1275 
 
 
 
 
 1801 
 
 1111 
 
 Ko-an . 
 
 
 1938 
 
 1278 
 
 
 
 
 1805 
 
 1115 
 
 Showo . 
 
 
 1948 
 
 1288 
 
 Ninpei . 
 
 
 
 
 1811 
 
 1151 1 
 
 ! Yeinin . 
 
 
 1953 
 
 1293 
 
 Khiju . 
 
 
 
 
 1811 
 
 1151 
 
 Sho-an . 
 
 
 1959 
 
 1299 
 
 Hogen . 
 
 
 
 
 1816 
 
 1156 
 
 Kengen. 
 
 
 1962 
 
 1302 
 
 Heiji . 
 
 
 
 
 1819 
 
 1159 ! 
 
 Kagen . 
 
 
 1963 
 
 1303 
 
 Yeiriyaku 
 
 
 
 
 1820 
 
 1160 
 
 Tokuji . 
 
 
 1966 
 
 1306 
 
 Oyei. . 
 
 
 
 
 1821 
 
 1161 1 
 
 ; Yenkei . 
 
 
 1968 
 
 1308 
 
 Cliokuau 
 
 
 
 
 1823 
 
 1163 
 
 Ocho 
 
 
 1971 
 
 1311 
 
 Yeimau . 
 
 
 
 
 1825 
 
 1165 
 
 Showa . 
 
 
 1972 
 
 . 1312 
 
 Niuau . 
 
 
 
 
 1826 
 
 1166 
 
 Bimpo . 
 
 
 1977 
 
 1317 
 
 Kawo . 
 
 
 
 
 1829 
 
 1169 1 
 
 Gen wo . 
 
 
 1979 
 
 1319 
 
 Sho-an . 
 
 
 
 
 1831 
 
 1171 ' 
 
 Genko . 
 
 
 1981 
 
 1321 
 
 Angeu . 
 
 
 
 
 1835 
 
 1175 
 
 1 Shochu . 
 
 
 1984 
 
 1324 
 
 Jijo . 
 
 
 
 
 1837 
 
 1177 i 
 
 Kareki . 
 
 
 1986 
 
 1326 
 
 Yowa 
 
 
 
 
 1811 
 
 1181 
 
 Geiitoku 
 
 
 1989 
 
 1329 
 
 Juyei . 
 
 
 
 
 1812 
 
 1182 I 
 
 j Genko . 
 
 
 1991 
 
 1331 
 
 IMoiiji . 
 Keukiu . 
 
 
 
 
 1815 
 
 1856 
 
 1185 ! 
 1190 1 
 
 ! Kemmu. 
 
 
 1994 
 
 1334 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Shoji . 
 
 
 
 
 1859 
 
 1199 1 
 
 SOUTHERN DYNASTY.* 
 
 
 
 Keuuiii . 
 
 
 
 
 1861 
 
 1201 i 
 
 Yengen 
 
 
 1996 
 
 1336 
 
 Geiikiii . 
 
 
 
 
 1861 
 
 1204 i 
 
 Kokoku. 
 
 . 
 
 2000 
 
 i 1340 
 
 bn 3 
 •| a; 2 
 
 s 
 
 p 
 
 ■2 
 
 Q S 
 
 r-r-T 
 
 ‘2 ^ 
 c .2 
 ‘So M 
 
 OJ -T" 
 2 
 
 03 rS^ 
 
 Q .-2 
 
 * There were two dynasties during the time (1336-39 A.D.), and separate year- 
 periods were used. 
 
330 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [ait. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Date, beginning 
 with the 
 Emperor Jimmu. 
 
 Date, beginning 
 with Christian Era. 
 
 i 
 
 Name. 
 
 Date, beginning 
 with the 
 Emperor Jimmu. 
 
 Date, beginning 
 with Christian Era. 
 
 Slioliei .... 
 
 2006 
 
 1346 
 
 Koji 
 
 2215 
 
 1555 
 
 Kentokii 
 
 2030 
 
 1370 
 
 1 Yeiroku 
 
 2218 
 
 1558 
 
 Bimchu. 
 
 2032 
 
 1372 
 
 i Genki .... 
 
 2230 
 
 1570 
 
 Tenjii .... 
 
 2035 
 
 1375 
 
 1 Tensho .... 
 
 2233 
 
 1573 
 
 Kowa .... 
 
 2041 
 
 1381 
 
 1 Bimroku 
 
 2252 
 
 1592 
 
 Gcncliu. 
 
 2044 
 
 1384 
 
 1 Keicho .... 
 
 2256 
 
 1596 
 
 
 
 
 Genna .... 
 
 2275 
 
 1615 
 
 NOItTHERN DYNASTV. 
 
 
 
 Kuanyei 
 
 2284 
 
 1624 
 
 Rekiwo .... 
 
 1998 
 
 1338 ! 
 
 Shoho .... 
 
 2304 
 
 1644 
 
 Koyei .... 
 
 i 2002 
 
 1342 1 
 
 Kei-au .... 
 
 2308 
 
 1648 
 
 Teiwa .... 
 
 1 2005 
 
 1345 
 
 Sliowo .... 
 
 2312 
 
 1652 
 
 Kuan wo 
 
 2010 
 
 1350 
 
 Meireki. . . 
 
 2315 
 
 1655 
 
 Yenbiin. 
 
 2016 
 
 1356 i 
 
 Maiiji .... 
 
 2318 
 
 1658 
 
 Owa 
 
 2021 
 
 1361 i 
 
 Kuanbuu . 
 
 2321 
 
 1661 
 
 Toji 
 
 ; 2022 
 
 ! 1362 1 
 
 Yenpo .... 
 
 2333 
 
 1673 
 
 0-an .... 
 
 2028 
 
 i 1368 I 
 
 Tenwa .... 
 
 2341 
 
 1681 
 
 Yeiwa .... 
 
 2035 
 
 1375 
 
 Jokio 
 
 2344 
 
 1684 
 
 Koreki .... 
 
 2039 
 
 1379 ' 
 
 Tenroku 
 
 2348 
 
 1688 
 
 Yeitoku. 
 
 2041 
 
 1381 
 
 Hoyei .... 
 
 2364 
 
 1704 
 
 Sliitoku. 
 
 2044 j 
 
 1384 j 
 
 Sbotoku 
 
 2371 
 
 1711 
 
 Kakei .... 
 
 2047 
 
 1387 ! 
 
 Hokio .... 
 
 2376 
 
 1716 
 
 Kowo .... 
 
 2049 
 
 1389 { 
 
 Genbun. 
 
 2396 
 
 1736 
 
 Miotoku 
 
 2050 1 
 
 1390 : 
 
 Kuanpo. 
 
 2401 
 
 1741 
 
 Oyen .... 
 
 2054 i 
 
 1394 i 
 
 Yenkio. 
 
 2404 
 
 1744 
 
 Seicho .... 
 
 2088 ? 
 
 1428 ; 
 
 Kuanyen 
 
 2408 
 
 1748 
 
 Yeikiyo. . . . i 
 
 2089 1 
 
 1429 1 
 
 Horeki .... 
 
 2411 
 
 1751 
 
 Kakitsu . . j 
 
 2101 ; 
 
 1441 
 
 Meiwa .... 
 
 2424 
 
 1764 
 
 Buuan .... 
 
 2104 1 
 
 1444 1 
 
 Anyei .... 
 
 2432 
 
 1772 
 
 Hotoku . . . . 1 
 
 2109 
 
 1449 ' 
 
 Tenmei 
 
 2441 
 
 1781 
 
 Kiotoku. . . ^ 1 
 
 2112 ; 
 
 1452 :| 
 
 Kuansei 
 
 2449 
 
 1789 
 
 Kosho . . . . j 
 
 2115 ; 
 
 1455 i 
 
 Kiowa .... 
 
 2461 
 
 1801 
 
 Clioroku . . . I 
 
 2117 1 
 
 1457 
 
 Buukua. 
 
 2464 
 
 1804 
 
 Kuansho . . . : 
 
 2120 
 
 1460 1 
 
 Bunsei ^ . . . 
 
 2478 
 
 1818 
 
 Bunslio . . . . 1 
 
 2126 
 
 1466 1 
 
 Tenpo .... 
 
 2490 
 
 1830 
 
 Onin .... 
 
 2127 
 
 1467 ! 
 
 Koka .... 
 
 2504 
 
 1844 
 
 Bunmei. . . . | 
 
 2129 
 
 1469 1 
 
 Kayei .... 
 
 2508 
 
 1848 
 
 Cliokio ’. . . . 1 
 
 2147 
 
 1487 1 
 
 Ansei .... 
 
 2514 
 
 1854 
 
 Yeutoku . . . j 
 
 2149 
 
 1489 1 
 
 IManyei .... 
 
 2520 
 
 1860 
 
 Miowo . . . . j 
 
 2152 
 
 1492 , 
 
 Bunkiu .... 
 
 2521 
 
 1801 
 
 l^uiiki . . . . ! 
 
 2161 
 
 1501 ! 
 
 Genji .... 
 
 2524 
 
 1864 
 
 Yeisci .... 
 
 2164 
 
 1504 
 
 Keiwo . . . . ' 
 
 2525 
 
 1865 
 
 'i’aiyei . . . . ^ 
 
 2181 
 
 1521 
 
 Meiji . . . . 1 
 
 2528 
 
 1868 
 
 J^^ioroku . . . : 
 
 2188 
 
 1528 
 
 Moiji, ninth year . i 
 
 2536 
 
 1876 
 
 Toubim. . . . ' 
 
 2192 
 
 1532 ! 
 
 i| 
 
 
 
 
( 331 ) 
 
 COMPAEATIYE TABLE OF WOKDS IN JAPANESE, 
 WEST AFEICAN, AND OTHEE LANGUAGES. 
 
 Prepared for this Work hy Hyde Clarke, Esq., V.-Pres. Anthropological 
 Institute, Corr. Mem. American Oriental Soc. 
 
 English. | 
 
 Japanese. 
 
 African. 
 
 Indian, etc. 
 
 Child . . . 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 ko . . . . 
 
 nego, Toma, 
 mo-koa, Balii. j 
 
 
 Boy . . . . 
 
 waratse 
 
 woronorun, Akurz- 
 kiira. 
 
 
 Elder brother . 
 
 kei .... 
 
 ani . 
 
 hoyo, Mandenga. 
 oke, Isoama. 
 yaka, Bonin, 
 miane, Ishiele. 
 nia, Abese. 
 
 
 Younger brother 
 
 tsi . . . . 
 
 pantsi, Nyombe. 
 kadshi, Kupa. 
 
 
 Servant . . . 
 
 sill .... 
 
 dshoiio, Mandenga, 
 etc. 
 
 nsamp, Pajade. 
 dshon, Soso, 
 ashunku, Banyun. 
 issung, Berber. 
 
 
 King. . . . 
 
 kami 
 
 1 
 
 komasa, Mandenga. 
 fankama, Pajade. 
 nkumu, Bumbete. 
 dnkumu, Bumbete. 
 nkoma, Nyomban. 
 kamambuku, Un- 
 daza. 
 
 
 Cod .... 
 
 shivo . . 
 
 oshowo, Ekamtu- 
 lufu .... 
 oshowo, Udom. 
 nsambi, Kasanj,etc. 
 njambi, Babuma. 
 ndzambi, Nyombe. 
 saba, Phrygian 
 saba, Prisco-PIel- 
 lenic .... 
 saba, Lydian . 
 
 seb, Egypt . . . 
 
 assabi, Ethiopian . 
 
 siva, Indian, 
 saba, Arabic. 
 
 The following ( 
 American 
 shiwa, Mexico. 
 
 sibu, Bribri. ' 
 sibu, Cabccar. 
 zibo, Tiribi. 
 zuba, Terraba. 
 sibo, Brunka. 
 
 Central 
 
 America. 
 
332 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [app. 
 
 English. 
 
 Japanese. 
 
 African. 
 
 1 
 
 Indian, etc. 
 
 Sky .... 
 
 sora .... 
 
 sar, Jelana, etc. . 
 dshensara, do. 
 
 zeru, Basque, 
 sorgi, Dhimal. 
 
 1 sarang, Magar. 
 sarangi, Sunwar. 
 sarange, Eajmahali. 
 sargam, Rutluk. 
 sirma, Kol. 
 sarg, Chentsu. 
 sarag, Newar. 
 
 Foot .... 
 
 asi . 
 ac/a’. 
 
 (shanna, Loo- 
 cho) 
 
 sonkonyo, Toronka 
 (sauna soso, leg ?). 
 
 shan, Annam. 
 tacZiang, Naga. 
 aji, Savara. 
 hejje, Karnataka. 
 
 Mouth . . 
 
 j huti 
 1 liuchi . 
 
 Icedshi, Bornu 
 uas/me, Mandenga 
 
 kuga, Garo. 
 khouga, Bodo. 
 j kha, Takpa. 
 
 Shoulder 
 
 laitta . 
 
 Imtta^ Nyamban. 
 kosoe, Ngola. 
 liata, Matatan. 
 Icatana, Mano. 
 
 1 
 
 Ilaud , . . 
 
 ta ... . 
 
 te ... 
 
 clcei, Babuma . 
 koe, Gio, etc. . . 
 
 ^agi, Tene . 
 
 fayuk, Gyarung. 
 da, Brahui. 
 tekka, Naga. 
 A:aKumi. 
 tay, Annam. 
 kha, Ahor., etc. 
 ti, Kol, etc. 
 
 Belly . . . 
 
 fara 
 
 pura, Mose. 
 fure, Okuloma. 
 tefunu, Ashantee. 
 for, Jelana. 
 furi, Soso. 
 puri, Kisi. 
 
 
 Blood 
 
 tsi .... 
 chee .... 
 
 aze, Oloma . 
 sdsi, Oloma 
 02 :a^■, Ihewe 
 Cisheyi, Mandenga 
 eds/i/, Eshitako . 
 ndze, Momenya . 
 
 azu, Naga. 
 tashi, Gyarung. 
 usu, Choiiras}a. 
 child, Bhramu. 
 chi, Garo. 
 
 chui, Deoria Chutia. 
 
 Skin .... 
 
 kawa . 
 
 ngewe, Momenya . 
 neJcuive, Matatan . 
 Jcoro, Kisi . 
 
 Jwro, Toma. 
 okuha, Orunga 
 
 koppa, Serpa. 
 tagap, Naga. 
 kwakte, Chourasya. 
 komho, Lepcha. 
 chapta, Uraon. 
 
 Breast . . . 
 
 moiie . 
 
 mean, Kisi. 
 nine, Toma. 
 
 
 Boue . . . : 
 
 houe 
 
 akuau, Bayon . 
 hoare, Soso. | 
 
 wan, Naga. 
 
APP.] 
 
 COMPARATIVE TABLE OE LANGUAGES. 
 
 333 
 
 English. 
 
 Japanese. 
 
 African. 
 
 Indian, etc. 
 
 Neck 
 
 kabi 
 
 kale (Looclioo) 
 
 kapuru, Toma, 
 kompol, Mano. 
 koerambi, Soso. 
 
 
 
 kase, Soso, 
 kano, Mandenga. 
 kougo, Okuloma. 
 
 
 
 
 Fire . . . 
 
 hi ... . 
 
 fene, Okuloma. 
 veia, Bongo, 
 firi, Bonny. 
 
 
 
 fi . . . . 
 
 i 
 
 afu, ManJara. 
 wia, Diwala. 
 ive, Benin, 
 veva, Baseke. 
 
 
 Water . 
 
 mizzu . 
 
 mazea, Kabunga . 
 maza, Mimboma. 
 
 atzu, Naga. 
 
 
 
 raazi, Meto, etc. 
 mingi, Okuloma. 
 mendan, Kosi. 
 
 
 Day •. . . 
 
 ka . . . . 
 
 kan, Bornu. 
 
 nhi, Newar, 
 
 fi . . . . 
 
 afo, Sobo . 
 
 nyi, Chepang. 
 
 
 hi ... . 
 
 furo, Toma 
 
 anyi, Naga. 
 
 
 nitsi 
 
 notsu, Ngoala . 
 
 natlii, Sunwar. 
 
 Night . . . 
 
 yo . . . . 
 
 yoro, Guresa . 
 
 yotin. 
 
 
 yoru . 
 
 nyoru, Gurma . 
 
 jori, Manchu. 
 dobori, Manchu. 
 
 
 
 irahu, Egbira . 
 
 ya, Chepang. 
 
 
 
 naifore, Soso . 
 
 phiru, Lhopa. 
 
 
 
 ohuora, Orungu . 
 
 j)har, Garo. 
 
 
 
 eridai, Egbele 
 
 ira, Tamil, etc. 
 
 Village . 
 
 mura . 
 
 maro, Barba 
 muri, Kiriman. 
 
 merong, Singpho, 
 
 
 
 muri, Melon . 
 
 uri, Basque. 
 
 House , 
 
 iya . . . . 
 
 ua, Boko, 
 oyo, Abaja. 
 
 
 
 taku . 
 
 hu, Timbuktu, 
 kata, Nupe. 
 daki, Houssa. 
 
 
 Iron 
 
 tetsu . 
 
 sisu, Barba, 
 asho, Juku. 
 kitsulo, Marawi. 
 su, Bornu. 
 sisu, Barba., etc. 
 
 shi, Manyak. 
 
 Stone 
 
 ishi 
 
 adshie, Koro . 
 dudsi, Houssa. 
 
 kache, Naga. 
 
 Moon 
 
 hsuki. 
 
 1 otsoki (Loo- 
 j choo) 
 
 j 
 
 i 
 
 
 isogo, Yarriba. 
 
 suru. Barba, 
 iguki, Oloma. 
 sung, Mandenga. 
 
 
 
334 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 API*. 
 
 English. 
 
 Japanese. 
 
 African. 
 
 Indian, etc. 
 
 Sand 
 
 sona 
 
 sonma, Bagba. 
 
 
 
 sinna (Loo- 
 
 
 
 
 choo) . 
 
 nsagi, Muntun, etc. 
 shionde, Kisi. 
 
 
 Yam 
 
 imo . . . 
 
 yomo, Baseke . 
 
 thoma, Thibet. 
 
 
 tsu-kemono 
 
 aso, Ngoala 
 
 homan, Shan. 
 
 
 
 ekama, Filham. 
 
 shi, Naga. 
 
 Door 
 
 kado . 
 
 kogu, Koro 
 
 ka, Akkad. 
 
 
 to ... . 
 
 ko, Manclenga. 
 
 
 
 te . . . . 
 
 kitseko, Marawi. 
 kendara, Kono. 
 
 
 
 
 kodia, Soso, 
 kondo, Kisi. 
 
 
 Itcli .... 
 
 kaya . 
 
 kuo, Musu. 
 kato, Mandenga. 
 gaye, Pulo. 
 kasua, Houssa. 
 kasgun, Bornu. 
 kasi, Soso. 
 
 i 
 
 Medicine . 
 
 kusuri . 
 
 sera, Kisi. 
 share, Soso, 
 sali, sare, Abese. 
 sorum, Karekarc. 
 
 
 Monkey . 
 
 saru . . 
 
 sirowa, Bijogo . 
 
 Sara, Kuri. 
 
 
 on-shere, Egbira . 
 
 sarrha, Kol. 
 
 
 
 sula, Mandenga. 
 
 saheu, Lepcha. 
 
 Mouse . . , 
 
 no ... . 
 
 ene, Boko. 
 
 
 Rat .... 
 
 
 nino, Mandenga. 
 no, Guresa. 
 
 
 Elepliant . 
 
 zo . . . . 
 
 1 
 
 se, esc, Ngoala . 
 se, Toma. 
 
 tsu, Naga. 
 
 
 I 
 
 so, Nhalemoe. 
 osues, Alege. 
 esua, Nki. 
 
 (So Tiriht, Central 
 America, tapir.) 
 
 Bull. . . . 
 
 sai . 
 
 sa, Kandin. 
 
 
 Buffalo . 
 
 wo-osi ... 
 
 wosanqne, Baseke. 1 
 okeshu, Ishiele. | 
 
 
 
 suij^ue ... 
 (wo-oslii, Loo- ; 
 
 esuvve, Subo. 
 
 
 Cow .... 
 
 chon.) i 
 
 ushi . . . i 
 
 misi, Bambaia. 
 
 masi, Naga. 
 
 me-usi . 
 (mi-oclii, Loo- 
 choo) . . . 
 
 esuwe, Subo 
 
 mosa, Cliupang. 
 musho. Bode, 
 chuma, Serpa. 
 mosu,Deoria Cbutia. 
 
 
 
 Cat .... 
 
 nekko . . 
 
 nyago, Momenya . 1 
 nyanguma, Bam- 
 
 nyen, 'Jdioungthu. 
 
 
 
 bawa .... 
 
 ningyau, Singpho. 
 
 
 
 unogbo, Sobo. | 
 
 nyayo, Kisi. ' 
 
 
APP.] COMPARATIVE TABLE OF LANGUAGES. 
 
 335 
 
 English. 
 
 Japanese. 
 
 African. 
 
 Indian, etc. 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 Dog .... 
 
 inu .... 
 
 moinn. 
 
 (ing, Loochoo) 
 
 mengu, Ngoala. 
 
 
 Bird .... 
 
 tori . . 
 
 tori, Pulo . 
 nwori, Toma . 
 tore, Soso. 
 
 chori, Basque, 
 chari, Darhi, etc. 
 
 Snake . 
 
 hebi . 
 
 (= fish) febi . 
 
 kowo, Kisi. 
 uwa, Giiresa. 
 ewa, Goali. 
 ewu, Koro. 
 
 
 Fish .... 
 
 siwo 
 
 siowo, Goali 
 
 sapa, Pakhya. 
 sapa, Tliaru. 
 sapa, Chentsu. 
 
 (= snake) 
 
 nwo 
 
 suNvo, Kisi . 
 yewo, Mandenga . 
 soa, I3arba. 
 nsi, Wi Sagara. 
 iwowo, Egbira. 
 
 To-day . . . 
 
 kon-nichi . 
 
 nano, Oloma . 
 nume, Sobo. 
 nyanse, Nyamban . 
 1 ku, Boriiu. 
 
 enengi, Manchii. 
 innaki, Tamil. 
 
 Yesterday . 
 
 sakn-siohii 
 
 siika, Goali. 
 matsega, Babuma. 
 
 
 To-morrow . 
 
 myo-nichi . 
 
 
 nesii, Yerukala. 
 
 No ... . 
 
 nai .... 
 
 na, Mano . 
 
 nil, Georgian. 
 
 Not . . . . 
 
 na . 
 
 na, Abese . 
 
 na, Knswar. 
 
 
 suruna . 
 
 ne, Bornn . 
 serunn, Kra 
 yerunu, Krebo . 
 
 nail, Kooch. 
 nonga, Naga. 
 nao, Kami. 
 
 Groat . 
 
 oki .... 
 ooi .... 
 day .... 
 
 oku, Isoama. 
 okokoi, Sobo. 
 akolo, Kono. 
 
 
 Small . . . 
 
 saino-dsi . 
 
 isone, Isuwu . 
 
 osokhou, Manchu. 
 
 
 sai-hito 
 
 dshetito, Pangela . 
 
 syouti, Gy ami. 
 
 
 tsiisa . 
 
 dshi-dsho, Kabcnda 
 asoso, Oloma . 
 os:e, Sobo . 
 oshobere, Kisi . 
 
 sanu, Ikikhya. 
 sui, Naga. 
 saiika, Uraon. 
 saui, Knri. 
 
 White . . . 
 
 siro 
 
 set ire, Tene. 
 fera, Timne. 
 ma-zela, Kasanj, etc. 
 I pan-tera, Baga. 
 tali, Hoiissa. 
 
 
 Black . 
 
 kuroi . 
 
 kuru kurn, Oku- 
 
 
 
 kuro . 
 
 loma .... 
 kereshe, Aloje . 
 
 kara, Turkish, 
 kariya, Tliaru. 
 inokliara, Uraon. 
 
 Good . . , 
 
 1 yo . . . . 
 
 eye, Ashantee . 
 i e-nyu, Anfue. 
 
 yo, Magyar. 
 
336 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [app. 
 
 • English. 
 
 Japanese. 
 
 African. 
 
 1 
 
 Indian, etc. 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 
 
 Bad .... 
 
 waru . 
 
 i waira, Pa jade. 
 ' wori, Mampa. 
 
 
 Greedy . 
 
 siva 
 
 j saweneh, Miirundu. 
 
 tsawii, Bornu.- 
 i songoau, Kisi. 
 
 
 Hot .... 
 
 atsui . 
 
 i ososo, Sobo . 
 
 Ic'fsa, Naga. 
 
 
 nuku . 
 
 1 
 
 dshou, Bornu . 
 
 ! oclshu, Baghrnii. 
 
 esiese, Gio. 
 i dukuna, Houssa. 
 
 tetsok, Naga. 
 
 Cold . . . 
 
 samii ... 
 
 esime, Isiiwu . 
 
 masunu, Yerukala, 
 sim, Thaksya. 
 semba, Limbn. 
 siraba, Murmi. 
 
 1 
 
 
 sabu ... 
 
 samsu, Bornu . 
 sumane, Mandenga 
 adsoabet, Kanyop . 
 
 1 
 
 Straight 
 
 niasugu . . ' 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 masegi, Kambali . 
 sung-amini, Mira- j 
 
 dshok, Bornu . . J 
 
 1 
 
 saiko, Gondi. 
 
 sukaga, Keikadi. 
 kasumi, Madi. 
 
 Crooked 
 
 magalie . 
 
 gongoro, Timbuktu [ 
 
 vankara, Yerukala. 
 
 
 magaro . . j 
 
 okure, Kra . . . j 
 
 kerigata, Bornu . | 
 
 kokurai, Deoria 
 Chutia. 
 koikolo, Naga. 
 makur, Basque. 
 
 Old .... 
 
 furu . . . 1 
 
 oyu • • . 
 
 oitaru . . . 1 
 
 1 
 
 eru, Ngoala. 
 wuara, Bornu. 
 kiari. 
 fori, Soso. 
 
 
 New 
 Young . 
 
 arata . . . ‘ 
 
 1 
 
 yareade, Whydah. 
 
 i 
 
 
 Sleep 
 
 neri . . . ' 
 
 sinoro, IMandenga . j 
 
 nama, Semitic. 
 
 iiemu . . . ' 
 
 j 
 
 kenem, Bornu . 
 daniraa, Pulo . 
 tamese, Sobo. 
 nawunui’o, Akura- 
 kura. 
 
 nyan, Tibetan, 
 nawa, Bhramu. 
 
 Speak . 
 
 ivi . . . . j 
 
 owo, IMbamba . 
 rave, Yasgua. 
 we, Mano. 
 ha we, Nhalomoe. 
 
 hawe, Khyeng. 
 
 Toll .... 
 
 mangatalo . ; 
 nannaworusa . ■ 
 
 raagaua, Houssa. 
 nenian, Bornu. 
 man, Bornu. 
 
 
 j 
 
 Give . . . 1 
 
 1 
 
 yaru ... 
 ataye ... 
 tamave 
 
 1 
 
 yaru, Bini. 
 yeri, Murundo. 
 eyere, Aro. 
 dimamo, Ashantee. 
 (lima, INIandenga. 
 
 
 Drink ... 
 
 noini . 
 
 i 
 
 nyoma, Isuwu . 
 numu, Momenya . 
 nuin, Ashantee. 
 
 nomn, Amoy, 
 punainu, Khoiid. 
 
App.] COMPARATIVE TABLE OE LANGUAGES. 
 
 337 
 
 English. 
 
 Japanese. 
 
 African. 
 
 Indian, etc. 
 
 Come . . 
 
 kurii . 
 tsuki . 
 
 gire, Kra, etc. . 
 j saka, Houssa. 
 iseski, Bornu. 
 
 karo, Naga. 
 
 Go ... . 
 
 yuki . 
 
 ko, Timne, etc. 
 
 kas, Naga. 
 
 
 iku. 
 
 1 ko, Landoma . 
 
 ! eka, Rajmabali. 
 
 
 susumi. 
 
 Ivo, Ashantee . 
 shaimi, Ham . 
 
 yenga, Bbramu. 
 
 Play. . . . 
 
 asobi . 
 
 sabaso, Kisi. 
 sowero, Marawi. 
 sewa, Orungu. 
 gun-shab, Balu. 
 
 i • 
 
 Sell .... 
 
 uri .... 
 
 fereke, Maudenga. 
 fere, Teiie. 
 
 
 Boil. . . . 
 
 Cook . . , 
 
 ni . 
 
 na, Ekamtulufu. 
 
 nua, Ashantee. 
 ny, Sobo. 
 nyin, Soso. 
 
 
 Sit . 
 
 swam . 
 
 dsbara, Le^ba . . 
 
 ' dsbara, Kasm. 
 dsbowo, Kiamba. 
 susoan, Oloma. 
 
 eserri, Basque. 
 
 See .... 
 
 mi .... 
 mini . . . ; 
 
 mo. Why dab, etc. 
 sbimora, Pangela. 
 
 
 Love 
 
 so . 
 
 suki . , . 1 
 
 ! 
 
 so, Houssa. 
 se, Toma, 
 soge, Mano. 
 sbotka. Bode. 
 
 i 
 
 Strike . 
 
 tRtfi • . . ! 
 
 tudsa, Kanyup. . | 
 
 1 
 
 tatup, Gyaiamg. 
 
 Beat. . . . 
 
 utsi . . . 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 buto, Man donga . j 
 
 i 
 
 tat, Mon. 
 teda, Savara. 
 thattu, Malabar. 
 
 Understand. 
 
 wakaru 
 
 kadensui’u . . ! 
 
 woeri, Gbe. 
 dsboro, Orungu. 
 
 Laugh . 
 
 waravi . . | 
 
 yuwuru, Bornu. 
 nnarawi, Yasgua. 
 yurasan, Ekamtu- 
 lufu. ! 
 
 
 Kill .... 
 
 korosii . . ! 
 
 kuri, Gurma. 
 kur, Jelana 
 
 kolusu, Yerukala. 
 
 Cry . . . -. 
 
 Weep . 
 
 naku ... 
 
 i 
 
 akua, Isoama . 
 
 negaregin, Basque. 
 nagh, Braliui. 
 
 Run .... 
 
 fashiri . 
 
 sbiran, Oloma . 
 
 korri, Basque. 
 
 
 kakorii 
 
 berase, Toma . 
 kurde, Pajade. 
 
 ghure, Dumi. 
 garitaa, Mon. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 z 
 
338 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [app. 
 
 CELEBEATED SWOEDS AND MAKEES. 
 
 The following are the notes I promised, in Chapter XI., Yol. II., to 
 giye. They are taken from Mr. Pfonndes’s ^ Fu so Mimi Bnknro.’ 
 
 Old weapons are frequently presented to Kami shrines, especially 
 those dedicated to Hachiman and Dai-jin Gu. 
 
 The following are some of the numberless renowned blades and their 
 forgers. 
 
 Ama-kuni of Yamato, who liyed about 700 a.d., was a celebrated 
 maker. One of his blades is said to have been carried off by a crow 
 during the reign of Kanmu-Tenno, 782 a.d., and has since been known 
 by the name of the Kogarasu mam* (little crow). In 940 a.d. Taira 
 Sadamori became the possessor of this sword, which was drawn by 
 him in the wars with Masakado, who was until lately deified at Kanda, 
 Yedo. 
 
 Shin-soku, who lived at Usa no Mia of Buzen, was ordered to forge 
 a blade for the son of the emperor Heizei-Tenno in 806 a.d., and he 
 cut his name on the blade, the first time this was done. There is a 
 legend that Eiu Jinf came to his assistance. 
 
 Of ninety-nine swords he is said to have made, only eight had his 
 name on them, and the Hachiman shrines are named as being in 
 possession of most of these blades, many of which are now little else 
 than a mass of rust.$ 
 
 * Names were given to swords, as 
 to vessels, horses, and other favourite 
 possessions, the commonly used affix 
 want meaning “ perfect” in this sense, 
 and still used for ships. Formerly 
 even the young sons of nobles were 
 thus styled, as Take chi yo maru, a 
 common title for the heir to the Toku- 
 gawa line ; as also to castles, such as 
 Hon maru (true perfect) or Nishi 
 maru (west perfect). 
 
 t Riu Jin is the same as the old 
 man living at the bottom of the sea 
 in Riugu (Dragon Shrine). The father 
 of Toyotama hlme Hiko quarrelled 
 with his brother, and descending into 
 
 the depths of the sea became en- 
 amoured of Toyo, and lived with her 
 in coral caves until she was about to 
 bring forth her child. Hiko then 
 built her a hut on the sea-shore, roof- 
 ing it with cormorants’ wings. Here 
 Fuki was born, and his mother Toyo 
 then became a crocodile and returned 
 to her home in the deep, Hiko hav- 
 ing displeased her. She left her 
 sister Tama-yori-hime behind, who 
 married Fulda wasedzu, and Jimmu- 
 Tenno was tlieir fourth child. 
 
 :{: There are some of these old blades 
 in the Exhibition at Tokio. One is 
 marked as valued at 700 gen. 
 
API’.] 
 
 CELEBRATED SWORDS AND MAKERS. 
 
 339 
 
 Ohara Taru daiyii Yasutsuna of Hoki, a contemporary of Shin- 
 soku, forged a blade which in 947 was used by Eaiko (Minamoto 
 Yorimitzu) to kill Shi ten doji, a celebrated robber. He dreamed that 
 this sword, then still at the Ise shrine, alone had power to break 
 through the spell of invincibility that surrounded this celebrated 
 robber, who is even now known to children as a ghoul. This sword 
 was placed in the Ise Mai as an offering by Tamura Shogun. Another 
 sword of the same make was likewise placed at Kehi-miojin in Echigo 
 by the Shogun Toshihito. 
 
 Ohara Sane-mori, another maker of celebrated swords, lived at the 
 same time. One of his blades was called Nuke maru, from its having 
 flown out of its sheath and destroyed the Ja (enormous serpent) that 
 came to swallow up Taira Tadamori, who had laid the weapon 
 sheathed beside his pillow when lying down to rest. Another blade, 
 called Korgarashi maru, also in the possession of the Heiki family, 
 was reputed to cause trees to wither if it was laid down touching 
 them. 
 
 985 A.D. Yukihira was another celebrated sword-maker. One of 
 his swords was used by Watanabe, the follower of Yorimitzu (Eaiko), 
 to cut off the arm of the Onie* (ghoul) when sent by Eaiko to exter- 
 minate the wicked ghouls, dragons, ja, &c. 
 
 987 A.D. Mune chika, a sword-smith living in Sango Street, Kioto, 
 in the province of Yamashiro, made a blade called Cho marw, possessed 
 by Gonguro of Kamakura. Cho maru was so called from a cho (butter- 
 fly) being worked into the forte of the blade. Another was placed in 
 the temple of Eudo son at Echigo, and became the property of Wada 
 Saburozaiemon, who repaired the temple at his own cost. The blade 
 was thereafter called Eudo maru. 
 
 Another was called Kogitsune maru (little fox), from its having been 
 forged by the assistance of Inari (Uga no mitama), when Ichi jo no In 
 (887 A.D.) ordered one of the finest workmanship. The name of the 
 maker, Mune chika, was cut on the obverse, and the name Kokitsune 
 on the reverse side {tska'). 
 
 Tomonari of Bizen was a noted sword-maker of the same period. 
 
 1004 A.D. there lived in Yamashiro Yoshi iye, to whom appeared 
 Sumiyoshi Daimio Jin (of the temple at Osaka) and ordered the best 
 blade that could be welded. When it was finished, the maker was on 
 his way to the temple, as ordered, but while crossing the water he 
 dropped the sword into its depths. A cormorant dived, and finding, 
 flew away with it. Shortly afterwards a new sword was found at the 
 Shrine of Sumi yoshi, which proved to be the lost blade, and it is now 
 called Wuno maru (wu, a cormorant). 
 
 z 2 
 
 Vide Stories (Kodomo Bannshi). 
 
340 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [app. 
 
 1186 A.D. Gotoba no In was partial to sword-makers,* the most 
 celebrated of whom were sent for by him in rotation, as follows : — 
 
 The blades made by Gotoba no In are marked with a chrysanthemum 
 and a stroke beneath (kiku iclii monji). 
 
 1204 A.D. Yoshimitzu of Awadaguchi, in the province of Yama- 
 shiro, commonly known as Toshiro, His make of swords, having cut 
 tlirough a druggist’s metal mortar (called yagen), are known as 
 Yagen Toshiro. 
 
 Eai-taro Kuni-yukiis the name of a celebrated maker of this period. 
 In 1248 Kuni-mitzu flourished; in 1250, Kuni-yoshi. In 1279 Naga- 
 mitzu made a sword, afterwards worn by lyeyasu, called Adzuki naga 
 mitzu from its cutting a bean (adzuki) thrown into the air. 
 
 Other celebrated makers are : — 
 
 The last is the most celebrated of these renowned makers. He proudly 
 refused to cut his name on the blades, saying that their superiority 
 would be recognised without this. 
 
 1322 A.D., Mura-masa of Senjiu mura, in Ise, commonly spoken of as 
 Senjiu-in Mura-marsa. His swords woiild, it is said, cut a sheet of 
 paper floating on the stream if the sword were only held in the water 
 to meet the paper. Such was the reputed keenness of these weapons, 
 and so great the desire to test it possessed the owners, that when 
 a fitting opportunity occurred, the Tokugawa government forbade 
 their being worn.t 
 
 * Many of the imperial family and word-making. 
 
 Dairnios imitated this Mikado, and f The compiler of these notes 
 patronised amateur and professional possesses one, and has experience of 
 
 1st month, Bizen no Norimune. 
 
 2nd „ Bitchiu no Sadatsugu. 
 
 3rd „ Bizen Nobufusa. 
 
 4th „ Awadaguchi no Kuniyasu. 
 
 5th „ Bitchiu no Tsunetsugu. 
 
 6th „ Awadaguchi no Kunitomo. 
 
 7th „ Bizen no Muneyoshi. 
 
 8th „ Bitchiu no Tsuguieye. 
 9th „ Bizen no Sukemune. 
 
 10th „ Bizen no Yukikuni. 
 
 11th „ Bizen no Sukenari. 
 
 12th „ Bizen no Sukenobu. 
 
 t Eai Kuni toshi. 
 
 I Shin to go Kuni mitzu. 
 
 1303. Yuki mitsu of Sagami. 
 
 1319. Sadamune of Sagami. 
 
 1320. Go no Yoshi hiro of Yetchiu. 
 
APP.] 
 
 CELEBRATED BWORDB AND MAKERS. 
 
 341 
 
 In 1326 Masa-mune, the most celebrated of sword-makers, forged 
 some of his best blades, now still in existence. The welding shows a 
 peculiar golden tinge, like forked lightning through a dark cloud. 
 He folded his metal from four sides, beat it out and refolded it in a 
 peculiar manner. 
 
 In 1338 there lived in Mino, at the village of Seki, Shidzu saburo 
 Kani-uji, a pupil of Masa mune. 
 
 In 1362, Okane-mitzu, a celebrated maker of sabres, having more 
 sweep in them than the blades of other makers. 
 
 1370 A.D., Kane-sada was a reputed sword-smith of Seki. 
 
 All swords made since 1570 are called Shinto (new swords), and the 
 old but inferior blades are included with these. The swords of previous 
 make are called Koto (old swords). 
 
 Horikawa Kuni-hiro, 1600 a.d., was the best of the new {Shinto) 
 makers. 
 
 In Setsu (Osaka) Tsuda Echizen no kami Suke-hiro was another 
 maker of about the same period (1624). 
 
 Subsequent makers are numerous, but as there are no special legends 
 connected with their blades or particular characteristics pertaining to 
 them, the list of their names is omitted here. 
 
 The edge of the Japanese sword is tempered separately from the 
 body, by being covered with clay when placed in the fire, and this 
 process brings out the marking peculiar to these swords called ya-ld ha 
 (burnt head). 
 
 These processes vary, and are called : — 
 
 Suguha, or straight edge : the style of Kuni mitzu. 
 
 IIoso suguha (fine thin), straight edge ; the Yamashiro style. 
 
 Oomidare, large, irregular, wavy : the Sagami and Bizen style. 
 
 Kornidare, small, irregular, wavy ; same style. 
 
 Choji, like cloves laid side by side : Bizen style. 
 
 Jiuka, overlaid petals, like flower petals : Bizen style. 
 
 Ilitatsura, marked with cloudy spots : Soshiu style. 
 
 0 Notare, large wavy line ; common to all. 
 
 Jio Natare, a small wavy line ; common to all. 
 
 Saka ashi, serrated ; principally Bizen. 
 
 Gunome or gonome, five curves and a straight line alternating : Mino 
 and Seki style. 
 
 Samhonsugi, three serrated marks and a straight line alternating. 
 
 Niye* are spots on the hard metal of the edge, peculiar to certain 
 makes; and Niyoie, cloudings and markings in the welding. The 
 
 the fear and superstitious reverence 
 evinced by natives of all classes for 
 the swords of this maker. 
 
 * Swords are said to retain the 
 
 stain of human blood if it is not 
 ground out speedily after the death 
 of the victim. 
 
342 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 [app. 
 
 markings on the point, called hoshi, are of several kinds, denoting the 
 peculiar makes. 
 
 All these details must be thoroughly studied by every Japanese 
 gentleman, and Hon Nami (experts) were pensioned by the Tokugawa 
 government to teach the true marks.” 
 
 The shapes of blades were classed as following : — 
 
 Ken, two-edged falchions. 
 
 Tatchi, swords with a greater curve. 
 
 Katana, the common large sword. 
 
 Wahizaslii, the ordinary medium blade. 
 
 Tanto, the short sword, of late most worn with the Katana. 
 
 Yoroidoshi, a short thick blade. 
 
 Yari, a lance. 
 
 Naginaki, a large-headed lance. 
 
 Unokuhi tskuri (cormorant’s-head-shaped), a blade flattened out at 
 the point. 
 
 Kamuri otoshi, a small pointed stiletto. 
 
 Shobutskuri, like a flag-leaf, flat-backed. 
 
 liiratskuri, broad-shaped. 
 
 Iwomune, sloping-backed. 
 
 Hako mune, square-backed. 
 
 Ogisaki, round-pointed. 
 
 Kiromono are grooves or hollows in the blades filled with crimson 
 lacquer or carvings of Fudo, Marishiten (dragons), and sometimes 
 Bonji (Sanskrit) letters and Chinese characters, such as read kimi ban 
 zei will cut for ten thousand years ”) ; ten ka tai hei (“ peace beneath 
 heaven ”) ; set shin ho koku honest heart and patriotic”). Some swords 
 have been engraved with poetry of thirty-one syllables. 
 
 The shapes of the haft {komi, or nakago) and the marks thereon are 
 a serious study to all true swordsmen. 
 
 Yasuri me (file-marks), to keep the hilt from slipping. 
 
 Jlirayasuri, Yokoyasuri taka no ha, Ya liadzu, are the various styles 
 each having some peculiarity of the maker. 
 
ABEGAWA. 
 
 BANQUETS. 
 
 Abegawa river, ii. 284, 286 
 Aidzii clan, the, rebellion of, i. 282 
 Aino origin of the Japanese, i. 16 
 Ainos, the, revolt of, i. 138 
 Alcock, Sir fiutherford, on Japanese 
 Art, ii. 98 
 
 Almanac first used, i. 129 
 Ama-no-uki-hashi, or floating bridge 
 of heaven, i. 30 
 
 Amaterasu, queen of the sun, i. xxix. 
 
 29 ; legend of, 31 ; ii. 245 
 American demands for commercial 
 intercourse, i. 245, 247, 252, 254 
 Amita Buddha, i. 83, 85 
 Anagawa, battle of, i. 186 
 Anaki, tutor to Prince Waki-Irako, 
 
 i. 124 
 
 Anatomy not formerly known in 
 Japan, ii. 95 ; account of its dis- 
 covery, 95, 96, n. 
 
 Ancestors, worship of, enjoined, i. 43 
 Anderson, Professor, his art collection, 
 
 ii. 82 ; upon Japanese design, com- 
 position, drawing, perspective, chia- 
 roscuro and colour, 85, 87, 93, 94 
 
 Animals, Japanese, ii. 17 
 Anko, Emperor, assassinated, i. 106 
 Antiquities of Japan, ii. 175 
 Arai, gate of, ii. 282 
 Architecture, ancient style of, i. 136 
 Arishiyama, village, ii. 204 
 Arisugawa, Prince, commander-in- 
 chief of the imperial forces, i. 340 
 Army, a new, created, i. 320 
 Art, Japanese, development of, i. 
 129 ; processes of, ii. 30 ; temple 
 art treasures, ii. 80 ; studies in 
 Kioto, 81 ; seances, 82 ; 'of foreign 
 derivation, 83 ; patronised by 
 government, 83 ; early artists, 84 ; 
 
 the Tosa school, 84; Kano and 
 his school, 85; Okio and the 
 Shiyo Riu, 87 ; Hokusai, 87, 89 ; 
 Professor Anderson’s summary, 93 ; 
 design, 94 ; beauty of the human 
 form not appreciated, 95 ; com- 
 position, drawing, 97 ; perspective, 
 98; chiaroscuro and colour, 99; 
 frequent recurrenee of some objects, 
 100 ; legend of the Cuckoo and the 
 Moon, 101—103 ; technical mastery, 
 104 
 
 Art and industry developed, i. 236 
 Aryan family of languages, the, i. 
 
 XXV. ; ii. 52, 77 
 Aryans, the, ii. 53, 76, 77 
 Asakusa, temple of, ii. 24; various 
 attractions, 25 ; the Nio, or giant 
 gate-keepers, 26 ; the remedial 
 idol, 27 ; praying-wheel, 28 
 Ashikaga Shoguns, rise of, i. 116; 
 
 images beheaded and pilloried, 264 
 Ashikaga-Taka-Uji, his discontent, 
 i. 168 ; abrupt departure, 169 ; 
 accuses Nitta, 169 
 
 Ashikagas, the, supreme power of, 
 i. 178; decline of, 183; complete 
 overthrow, 186 
 
 Assassination of the prime minister 
 Ii, i. 157 ; of two Englishmen at 
 Yedo, 260 ; of Mr. Richardson, 265 ; 
 of the Minister Okubo, 284 
 Assemblies, elective, i. 365 
 Atsuta, Shinto temple of, depository 
 of the sacred sword, ii. 266 
 Awada, sent as ambassador to China, 
 i. 289 
 
 Bakufu, the, i. 245 
 Banquets, Buddhist, ii. 202, 213 
 
344 
 
 BATH. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 COMPARATIVE. 
 
 Bath, tlie, a popular institution, i. 60 
 Bell, the wishing, legend of, ii. 291 
 Bibles, the Japanese (see Kojihi and 
 Nihonhi) 
 
 Binzuru Senja, the remedial idol at 
 Asakusa, ii. 27 
 Birds, Japanese, ii. 17 
 Biwa, lake of, ii. 232 I 
 
 Bo-tree, the, i. 67 
 
 Boat, ancient, in the museum at 
 Osaka, ii. 142 
 
 Bonin islands, the, i. 3 ; taken under 
 Japanese protection, 318 
 Bozus, the, their self-indulgent lives, 
 i. 193 ; scattered after the sur- 
 render of Honganji, 195 
 Brahmanism, i. 65 
 
 Brinkley, Captain, on the Japanese 
 language, ii. 51, 66, 72, 75 
 Bronze-work, ii. 36 ; process of cast- 
 ing, 37, 38 ; coloured pictures in 
 metals, 39 ; repousse work, 40 
 Buddha, his descent, i. 66 ; life and 
 teaching, 67 ; statue of, brought 
 into Japan, 107 ; relic of, at the 
 temple of Horiuji, ii. 161 
 Buddhism, i. xxx. ; its Indian origin, 
 64; its simplicity, 69; use of idols, 
 69; analogy with Christianity, 70; 
 theory of the cosmogony, 71 ; mo- 
 rality and purity, 72 ; transmigra- 
 tion of souls, 74 ; introduced into 
 China, 74; into Korea and Japan, 
 75 ; powerful in the state, 81 ; bold- 
 ness of the priests, 81 ; adopted by 
 all classes, 82 ; modern scepticism 
 respecting, 92-99 ; the “ Ranters ” 
 of, 88 ; rise of, 107; hostility to,' 194 
 Buddhistpriests persecuted by Nobun- 
 aga, i. 193 ; their temple of Hieyei 
 destroyed, 194; fortified temple of 
 Honganji, 194 ; its siege and sur- 
 render, 195 ; priestly attire, 203 
 
 sects, i. 83 ; Protestant, of 
 
 Japan, 86 ; number of, 90, 91 ; in- 
 fluence of European civilisation, 92 
 Burial-places of the Mikados, ii. 158 
 
 Cabinet, the present, i. 364 
 Cannon imported into Japan, i. 183 
 Castle of Yedo, 220 
 Ceiling of arrows at the old castle of 
 Kanazawa, ii. 145 
 Census taken in 1744, i. 236 
 Charm of numbers, the, i. 33 ; ii. 63 
 Chaya, the, or tea-house, ii. 14 
 
 Cherry-tree, Japanese, ii. 205 
 Chickens, sacred, in the Shinto 
 temples, ii. 11 
 
 Children, Japanese, ii. 13, 157 
 China, Buddhism in, i. 74 ; dream of 
 the emperor of, 75 ; presents from 
 a mission to, 78 ; further inter- 
 I course with, 80, 289 ; attempts to 
 invade Japan, 161 
 Chionin, Buddhist temple of, ii. 182 
 Cholera introduced into Japan, i. 
 xxxvii., 254 
 
 Choshiu clan, the, long - standing 
 grievances of, i. 242 ; fires upon 
 foreign ships, 268 ; dismissed from 
 Kioto, 269 ; attacks a Satsuma 
 ship, 270; conflict with the Sat- 
 suma and Aidzu clans, 271 
 Choshiu and Satsuma, the princes of, 
 their long-standing grievance, i. 
 242 ; projects for restoring power 
 to the emperor, 243, 244 ; honours 
 granted to, 279 
 
 Christian religion, the, protected by, 
 Nobunaga, i. 191 
 
 Christianity in Japan, appearance 
 and spread of, i. 190 ; flourishing 
 condition of, 199 ; lyeyasu’s extir- 
 pation of, 213 ; reaction against, 
 192, 296 ; interdict, 298 ; persecu- 
 tions, 300, 301 
 
 Christians, the, persecuted, i. 213 ; 
 revolt and massacre at Shimabara, 
 227, 228 
 
 Chronological period changed toMeiji, 
 i. 285 
 
 I Chronology, comparison of Christian 
 and Japanese, i. 102 
 Church, first Christian, in Japan, 
 i. 191 
 
 Clan system, the, abolisljed, i. 320 
 Clarke, Mr. Hyde, theory of, i. xxv. 
 17 ; ii. 53, 75-79, 331 
 
 on his Turano -African 
 
 theory, ii. 75-79 
 Climate, i. 5-9 
 
 Coat of Arms, the imperial, i. 118 
 “ Cockpit,” the, of Japan, ii. 179 
 Coinage, new copper, introduced, i. 
 229; altered, 233; restored by 
 lyetsugu, 234 
 
 Coins, modern, of Japan, ii. 153 
 Commerce, foreign, encouraged, i. 215 
 Comparative table of words in Ja- 
 panese, West African, and other 
 languages, ii. 331-337 
 
CONCUBINAGE. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 GEISHAS. 
 
 345 
 
 Concubinage, system of, i. 106 
 Conscription law, the, i. 320, 321 
 Consular jurisdiction, i. xlv.-xlviii. 
 Convict establishment, the central, 
 i. 321 
 
 Costumes, ii. 7, 12, 258, 259 
 Creation, Japanese account of, i. 25 
 Crown, the descent of the, i. 100 
 
 Dai-butsu, the colossal god of Nara, 
 head shaken off by an earthquake, 
 i. 10 ; ii. 225 ; description of, ii. 
 165 ; of Kioto, ii. 225 ; of Kama- 
 kura, i. 154 ; ii. 178 
 Dai-jo-Dai-jin, or office of prime 
 minister, i. 128 
 
 Dai-jo Ku-wan, the, or cabinet, 136 
 Daimios, or provincial princes, i. 214, 
 217, 218 
 
 Dance of the virgin priestesses, ii. 174 
 Dances, festival, ii. 213; national, 
 222 ; the most ancient ceremonial, 
 251 
 
 Deer, sacred, of Miyajima, ii. 120 
 Defacing customs abolished, i. 18 
 Diana, the Russian frigate, wrecked 
 by an earthquake off Sbimoda, i. 
 12, 251; ii. 116 
 Dogs, Korean, i. 177 
 Dokio, the priest, aspires to the 
 throne, i. 110 
 
 Doncho, the priest, sent from Koma 
 in Korea, i. 130 
 Drawings, amateur, ii. 273 
 Dutch language, its spread, i. 237 
 Dutch, the, their intercourse with 
 Japan, i. 294 ; forged letter found 
 on board a Portuguese vessel, 295 
 Dynasties, Northern and Southern, i. 
 174 ; wars, 176 
 
 Dynasty, the imperial, i. 35, 37, 39, 
 100 
 
 Dynasty, the Tokugawa founded, i. 
 201 
 
 Earthquakes, summary of, i. 10-12 ; 
 succession of, 250 
 
 Edicts against Christianity, and rules 
 for testing the orthodoxy of the 
 Japanese, i. 300, 301 
 Education, progress of, i. 129 ; interest 
 taken in, by the emperor and em- 
 press, 330 
 
 Educational system, the, i. 328 
 Emperor, the present (see Mutsu- 
 Hito) 
 
 Emperors and empresses, list of, ii. 
 326, 327 
 
 , Northern and Southern, i. 
 
 116 
 
 Engi-Kaku, the, composed by Fuji- 
 wara Tokihira, i. 134 
 England, beginning of intercourse 
 with Japan, i. 294 
 
 English, the, in Japan, i. xxxii. 249, 
 252, 254, 259, 260, 265, 288 
 Enomoto Kamurijo, Admiral, studies 
 naval warfare in Holland, i. 285 ; 
 adheres to the Tokugawa cause, 
 285 ; compelled to surrender, 286 ; 
 appointed to a high office, 286 
 Enouye Kawori, minister of public 
 works, i. 361 ; attempt on his life, 
 362 
 
 Enriaku-ji, temples (see Hiyei-san) 
 Envoys, Japanese, despatched to 
 Europe, i. 260 
 
 Epic, a prose, on the overthrow of 
 the Taira, i. 151 
 Excursion vans, ii. 18 
 Exhibition, historic, at Kioto, ii. 219 
 Extent and area of Japan, i. 3 
 
 Fair, Japanese, at Osaka, ii. 143 
 Fetishism, i. xxvii. 
 
 Fire-arms introduced, i. 183 
 Fish-drying for manure, ii. 298 
 Formosa, the recent war of Japan 
 against, i. 310, 311 ; indemnity 
 paid by Russia, 311 
 Fruichi, ii. 253 
 
 Fu division, the, of Tokio, i. 320 ; ii. 
 45 
 
 Fuchiu, ii. 286 (see Shidzuoka) 
 Fugi-kawa river, ii. 298 
 Fujiwara regents, i. 110 ; the house 
 of, founded, 128 ; rise and eminence, 
 132 ; oppressive power, 138 
 Fuji-yama, the sacred mountain, ii. 
 1, 281, 284, 293 ; its height, 294 ; 
 a dormant, not extinct, volcano, 
 295 ; legend of its origin, 295 ; 
 cultivation, 295 ; pilgrimages to its 
 summit, 296 
 
 Fusieda, luncheon at, ii. 285 
 
 Gassho, the priest, drowns himself, i. 
 335 
 
 Gazette, government, published, i. 
 285 
 
 Geishas, or dancing girls, ii. 149, 
 199 ; schools for, 224 
 
346 
 
 GENJI-MONOGATARI. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 I150UKI. 
 
 Genji-monogatari, written by Mura- 
 saki-Shikibn, ii. 33, n. 68, 235 
 Geku shrine, the, ii. 244 ; the goddess 
 there worshipped, 246, n. 
 
 Geng king, the, sends a force to 
 invade Kushima and Iki, i. 291 ; 
 his armada, 292 ; final destruction, 
 293 
 
 Genro-In, (house of seniors) or senate, 
 
 i. 364 
 
 Geology, i, 9 
 
 Ginkakuji (silver-storied temple), ii. 
 187 
 
 Go-Daigo, the Southern Emperor, i. 
 116 ; escapes from Oki, 161 ; re- 
 stored to ins capital, 166 ; escapes 
 to Yoshino, 174 ; his death, 176 
 God-ancestors, extreme age of, i. 15. 
 Gods of Japan, the number of the, i. 
 31 ; the haini or, i. xxvii. 40, 45, 
 
 ii. 250 
 
 Gods, the way of the, i. 40, 42 
 Gohei^ the, a Japanese religious em- 
 blem, i. 32, 34, 59 ; ii. 169 
 Gokenin, the, i. 219 
 Go-Komio, Emperor, i. 229 
 Gold cups, the Mikado’s gifts of, ii. 
 298 
 
 Go-Sakura-Machi, Empress, i. 236 
 Go-Shirakawa, the ‘cloistered em- 
 peror,’ i. 142 
 
 Go-Tob;i, ex-emperor, i. 157 ; attempts 
 to assert the imperial rights, 158 ; 
 contest with his minister Yoshitoki, 
 158 
 
 Graveyards, village, ii. 160 
 Griffis’s Mikados’ Empire, i. vi. 20, 
 24, 40, 72, 87, 91, 122, 134, 142, 
 150, 176, 187, 193, 244 
 
 Hachiman of Tamoki, Shinto temple 
 of, ii. 171 
 
 Hachiman, i. 139 (see Ojin-Tenno) 
 Hachiman-Toro, i. 138-139 
 Hair, labourers’ mode of dressing, ii. 8 
 Hakone lake, ii. 305 
 
 mountains, ii. 300, 302 
 
 Hamamatsu, ii. 283 
 Han division, the, i, 320 
 Ilara-kiri, or suicide, i. 61, n. 
 Harbours and trading ports, i. 4 
 Harima sea, the, ii. 119 
 Harris, Mr., received in Yedo by the 
 Shogun, i. 253 
 
 Harvest prayer or ritual, i. 47, 49 
 Hatamoto, the, i. 218 
 
 Heiji, the, battle of, i. 142 
 Hewsken, Mr., American secretary of 
 legation, murdered, i. 258 
 Hibachi, the, ii. 9 
 
 Hidetada appointed nominally to the 
 Shogunate, i. 209 ; succeeds his 
 father, 224 ; sends a subject to 
 Europe to study its religions, 225 ; 
 decides against Eoman Catholicism, 
 225 ; authorises the founding of 
 the Wooyeno temples, 225 
 Hideyori, son of the 1 aiko, i. 206 ; 
 revolts, 207 ; besieged at Osaka, 
 210; revolts again, 210; commits 
 suicide, 211 
 
 Hideyoshi, i. 188, originally a hetto, 
 189 ; appoints a child-successor 
 to Nobunga, 196 ; declares war 
 against Korea, 198; threatens China, 
 199 ; his ambition, 200 ; becomes 
 the Taiko, 201; his character, 201 ; 
 anecdotes of, 202 ; prepares to in- 
 vade Korea, 302 ; proceeds to Kiu- 
 shiu, 303 ; death and truce with 
 Korea, 308 (see also ii. 220) 
 Higashi-Otani, Buddhist temple of, 
 ii. 181 
 
 Hiogo, the foreign squadrons at, i. 
 
 273, 274; ii. 117 (see Kobe) 
 Hirata, his instructions and pra}"ers, 
 i. 43-46 
 
 Hirata Atsutane composes his “ Kos- 
 hi-seibun ” at Shidzuoka, ii. 288 
 Historic period, commencement of, 
 in Japan, i. 101 
 Hiuga, the rebels in, i. 343 
 Hiyei-san, the great temple of, i. 
 80, 139, 190; destroyed, 194; Mr. 
 Dixon’s account of it, 227-229 
 Hojo family, the, i. 115 ; their fall, 
 116 ; good and patriotic services, 
 160 ; overthrow, 165 
 
 the “ later,” of Odowara, i. 
 
 196 ; its final overthrow, 198 
 Hokusai, the Japanese Hogarth, ii. 
 87, 88 
 
 Honganji, fortified temple and mon- 
 astery of, i. 194 ; siege and sm’ren- 
 der, 195 
 
 Horiuji, ancient Buddhist temples of, 
 i. 79; relic of Buddha, ii. 161; 
 carvings of Prince Shotoku, 162 
 Hoyei-san, its peak produced by an 
 earthquake, i. 11 
 
 Ibouki, snowy ranges of, ii. 266 
 
IDOLS. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 KAMI-DANA 
 
 347 
 
 Idols, Buddhistic use of, i. 68 
 Idzu hills, view of, ii. 302 
 li, created Tairo or chief minister 
 of the ShogUD, i. 253 ; concludes 
 treaties with foreign governments, 
 254 ; called the Swaggering Prime 
 Minister,” 255 ; assassinated, 257 ; 
 his head exposed, 258 
 litoyo-no-Awo, Princess regent, i. 
 106 
 
 Incense, ceremonial burning of, ii. 
 212 
 
 Infinite vision, a Buddhist debate on, 
 • i. 92-99' 
 
 Inland town or village, ii. 14 
 Inshiraga, the painter, i. 129 
 Insignia, the imperial, i. 29 ; carried 
 off by Fujiwara-Arimitzu, i. 180 
 Ise, ancient shrines of, i. 59 ii. 244 
 Ishibe village, ii. 236 
 Ishiyama-dera, the famous Buddhist 
 temples, ii. 233 ; legendary origin, 
 234 
 
 Islands of Japan, i. 1-4, 9 
 Ito, Mr., home minister, i. 357 
 Itsuku, island, ii. 120; temples of 
 Miyajima, 120 
 
 lyemitsu succeeds Hidetada, i. 226 ; 
 his feudal policy, 226 ; forbids all 
 foreign intercourse, 227 ; and the 
 construction of sea-going vessels, 
 227 ; revolt and massacre of the 
 Christians, 228 ; his new copper 
 coinage, 229 
 
 lyemocW, Shogun, his accession, i. 
 
 255 ; his death, 273 
 lyesada. Shogun, his accession, i. 247 ; 
 his death, 254 
 
 lyetsugu. Shogun, suppresses smug- 
 gling, i. 234 
 
 lyetsuna. Shogun, i. 230 ; encourages 
 literature, 230 ; maritime com- 
 merce, 231 
 
 lyeyasu, founder of the Tokugawa 
 dynasty, i. 186, 204; birthplace, 
 205, ii. 278 ; establishes himself in 
 the Kuanto, i. 205 ; founds Yedo, 
 206 ; sole regent, 206 ; conspired 
 against, 206 ; battle of Sekigahara, 
 207-209 ; created Shogun, 209 ; 
 besieges Osaka, 210; Hideyori’s 
 family destroyed, 211; issues an 
 edict for the expulsion of the 
 Jesuits, 211 ; persecutes the Chris- 
 tian converts, 213 ; promotes educa- 
 tion and learning, 214 ; takes con- 
 
 trol of the Mines, 215 ; encourages 
 foreign commerce, 215 ; his death 
 and “legacy,” 216 ; feudal system of 
 administration, 217 ; proclamation 
 interdicting Christianity through- 
 out the empire, 298 ; at Shidzuoka, 
 ii. 287 
 
 Izanagi and Izanami, i. xxix., 28 ; 
 their method of creation, 31 
 
 Japanese embassy to Europe, i. 271 
 Japanese political and international 
 prospects, i. xxxi. 
 
 Jesuit missionaries, the, i. 200 ; their 
 numbers, 211 ; attack the Buddhist 
 priests, 296 
 
 Jewels, magatama, or divine, ii. 143 
 Jimmu-Tenno, first historic emperor, 
 descent of, i. 35, 101, 119 ; his con- 
 quests, 120 ; palace, 121 ; imperial 
 salute in honour of his accession, 
 ii. 132 
 
 JingU'Kogo, Empress, i. 103 ; her in- 
 vasion of Korea, 104; diplomatic 
 relations between Japan and China, 
 123 ; brings books and writings 
 from Korea, 125 
 Jinriki-slia men, ii. 7, 236, 237 
 Jiogakko, or female normal school, ii. 
 195 
 
 Jiokoba, or female industrial estab- 
 lishment, ii. 195 
 
 Jito, Empress, her reforms, i. 128 
 Josetsu, the artist, ii. 85 
 
 Kadzumo, the capital in Kuwanno’s 
 reign, afterwards Kioto, i. 131 
 Kaempfer, Dr., on the origin of the 
 Japanese, i. 15 ; his visit to Japan, 
 232 ; describes lake Hakone, ii. 
 305 
 
 Kago, or mountain chair, ii. 284 ; its 
 discomforts to a European, 301 
 Kagoshima, bombardment of, i. 266 ; 
 removal of stores and arms resisted, 
 i. 339, 340 ; occupied by Saigo, 
 346 
 
 Kakemono, hanging pictures mounted 
 on rollers, ii. 81 
 
 Kamakura, founded by Yoritomo, i. 
 148 ; its aggrandisement, 152 ; its 
 fall and present desolation, 154; 
 Nitta’s attack upon, 163-165 
 Kami, the, or gods of the country, i. 
 xxvii. 40 
 
 Kami-dana, or Penates, i. 45 ; ii. 250 
 
348 
 
 KAMI-NO-MICHI. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 KOREA. 
 
 Kaaii-iio-michi, or way of the gods, . 
 
 i. 40, 42 I 
 
 Kamogawa river, ii. 186 
 Kanagawa, ii. 309 
 
 Kanaya village, ii. 285 
 Kanazawa, old castle of, ceiling of 
 arrows, gilded tiles, ii. 145 i 
 
 Kano Masanobu, bis school of Japan- ■ 
 ese art, ii. 86 I 
 
 Karuno, the ship, i. 124 ; 
 
 Kashiwabara, selected by Jimmii- ; 
 
 Tenno for his capital, i. 120 j 
 
 Kasiiga, Shinto temple of, ii. 172; its i 
 three thousand lanterns, 173 1 
 
 Kato Kiyomasa, the persecutor of ; 
 the Christians, i. 88 ; the designer j 
 of Kagoya castle, ii. 275 
 Katsnmoto’s rebellion, i. 180 i 
 
 Kawamnra, Admiral, sent to Kago- 
 shima, i. 340 ; made minister of | 
 marine, 361 ; his private residence, | 
 
 ii. 6 ; dinner at, 20 i 
 
 Keiki, the last Shogun, i. 274; re- 
 signs his office, 275 ; attempts to 
 regain his power, 276; marches to 
 Osaka, and advances to Kioto, 277 ; 
 defeated, 279 ; submits to the em- 
 peror, 280 j 
 
 Keiko, Emperor, his memorable reign, I 
 i. 121 
 
 Ken division, the, i. 320 
 Kingire, the, or “ shreds of brocade,” 
 i. 281 
 
 Kiuse Shiriaku, the, i. 241 
 Kioto (Miako) founded by Kuwannu, 
 i. 131 ; burnt, 182 ; scene of wars, 
 183, see Kadzumo 
 
 Kioto, the western capital, i. 131, 
 140,158, 181, 183, 190; ii. 179; 
 lodgings in a Buddhist temple, 180 ; 
 mineral baths at Maruyama, 180; 
 Buddhist temple of Higashi-Otani, 
 181 ; of Shiouin, 182 ; the Mikado’s 
 ])alace, 182-184 ; Shinto temple of 
 Shimagomo, 185 ; summer seat of 
 the Mikado, 186 ; Mr. Shnmako’s 
 private school, 187 ; the silver- 
 storied temple, 187 ; Shinto temples 
 of Yoshida, 189 ; the eight million , 
 gods, 190; Buddhist temple of | 
 Sbinniyodo, 191 ; of Kurodane, j 
 191 ; of Nanjenji, 192 ; industrial | 
 establishments, 193 ; female normal 
 school, 195-198, silk factories, 198; ; 
 the Karakuko school, 198, 199 ; 
 fjeisJms, or dancing girls, 199, 200, | 
 
 224 ; banquet with Buddhist dig- 
 nitaries, 200-204 ; illuminations, 
 jugglers, 203 ; Arashiyama, 205 ; 
 fishing and boating, 206 ; Shinto 
 temple of Matsuuo, 208 ; Japanese 
 music, 209 ; the great Toji temples, 
 210 ; Shinshu temples of Nishi- 
 Honganji, 212 ; a Buddhist banquet, 
 213; historical exhibition, 217; the 
 Mikado’s carriage, 218 ; literary 
 treasures, 218; government college, 
 218; porcelain works, 220; Hide- 
 yoshi at Kiyomidzu, 220 ; Shinshu 
 temple of Kishi-Otani, 222; na^* 
 tional dances, 222 ; silk and other 
 factories, 223 ; street strolls, 226 ; 
 Mount Hiyei, 227 ; illness, 229 
 Kirishmia, Mount, i. 30 
 Kirishitan (Christian) interdict and 
 proclamation against, i. 297, 298 
 Kiushiu placed under martial law, 
 i. 342 
 
 Kiyomidzu, temple of, ii. 220 
 Kiyomori, i. 139 ; his deeds in the 
 sea of lyo, 140, n. ; rescues the 
 emperor, 143 ; made prime minister, 
 144; attempts to assassinate, 145 
 Kobo Daishi, founder of the Shingon 
 sect. i. 80 ; an artist, ii. 84 ; author 
 of a Japanese alphabet, 169 
 Kobe and Hiogo, ii. 117 ; waterfalls, 
 117 ; tea-houses, shrines, temples, 
 118 ; club, 118 
 
 Kojiki, the, origin and authorship, i. 
 20, 21, 26 
 
 Kokaku, Emperor, i. 236 ; famine in 
 his reign, 237 
 
 Koken, Emijress, i. 109, 110 
 ’ Kokioku, Empress, afterwards Saimei, 
 
 , i. 108 
 
 I Kokubu, village, ii. 160 
 j Komagadake mountain, ii. 265 
 , Komei, Emperor, his death, i. 274 
 Komio-Tenno, the Northern Em- 
 peror, i. 116, 174 
 
 Korea, its relations with Japan, i. 
 75, 121; under Jingu-Kogo, 124; 
 Hideyosln declares war against, 
 198 ; invasion of, 303 ; retreat of 
 the king, 304 ; a jjarley, 305 ; Pin- 
 shang abandoned, 306 ; China sends 
 help, 306 ; truce concluded, 308 ; 
 lasting effects of the war, 308 ; de- 
 clines to acknowledge the Mikado, 
 311 ; a treaty of amity concluded, 
 312, 313 
 
KOREAN, 
 
 INDEX 
 
 MIKADOS. 
 
 349 
 
 Korean pirates attack the island of 
 Tsushima, i. 289, 290 
 Koriyama, town of, ii. 163 
 Korujo, ancient Buddhist temple of, 
 ii. 140 ; reminiscences of Prince 
 Shotoku, 140 
 
 Rose no Kanaoke, the first Japanese 
 artist, ii. 84 
 
 Kotoku, Emperor, i. 108 
 Kozu, Shinto temple of, at Osaka, ii. 
 140 
 
 Kunamoto, castle of, i. 341 
 Kurile islands, i. 3 ; made over to | 
 Japan, 317 
 
 Kuroda, General, his victory over the 
 rebels, i. 283 ; minister of agri- 
 culture and the colonies, 363 ; his 
 administration in Yezo, 363 
 Kurodani, Buddhist temple of, ii. 
 191 
 
 Kuroshiwo, or Black Current, i. 6 
 Kusunoki-Masashige, or ‘ Kanko,’ i. 
 162 ; undertakes to restore Go- 
 Daigo, 162 ; his wise advice re- 
 jected, 170 ; address to his son, 170 ; 
 defeat, 171; suicide, 172; fame as 
 a patriot, 172 ; gallantry and death 
 of his son, 173-174 
 Kuwannu, Emperor, i. 80 ; transfers 
 the capital to Kadzumo, 131 
 Kwannon, the goddess of a thousand 
 hands, i. 89; her temples at Ni- 
 getsu, ii. 170 ; miraculous appear- 
 ance to Prince Bizen, 280 ; colossal 
 bronze statue of, at Siomizaka, 281 
 
 Lacquer- work, ii. 31 ; a speciality of 
 Japan, 31 ; in remote times, 32 ; 
 decline and revival, 33 : process of 
 laying on, 34 ; gold and silver 
 applied, 35, 36 
 
 Lacquer, inlaid, and bamboo-work, at 
 Shidzuoka, ii. 286 
 Lakes of Japan, i. 5 
 Language, the Japanese, its origin, i. 
 xxiv. ; unwritten, ii. 48 ; oral 
 teaching, 49, 50 ; colossal system 
 of mnemonics, 51 ; ancient, 51 ; 
 the Loo-choo dialect, 52 ; a Tura- 
 nian tongue, 52 ; Mr. Hyde 
 Clarke’s theory, 53 ; characters 
 first introduced from Korea, 54; 
 Chinese literature, 54 ; Shinji letters 
 of the “ god-age,” 55 ; spoken and 
 written, 56 ; Capt. Brinkley on^ 72, 
 75 ; Comparative Table, 331 
 
 Laws, revision of the, i. 323 ; codes 
 of 1871 and 1873, 323 ; repeal of 
 barbarous, 324 
 
 Legacy of lyeyasu, the, i. 216 
 Legends, Japanese, i. 35 ; ii. 288- 
 292 
 
 Letter of a Japanese gentleman to a 
 Chinaman, ii. 69-71 ; interchange 
 of prose and poetry, 71, 72 
 Lighthouse building commenced, i. 
 285 
 
 Literature of Japan, great develop- 
 ment of, i. 233 ; ii. 57 •; influence 
 of women on, 68 
 
 Loo-choo Islands the, i. 3 ; the king- 
 dom of, becomes subject to the 
 princes of Satsuma, 309 ; the lan- 
 guage of, ii. 51, 75 
 Lotus, the emblem of the Buddhist 
 faith, ii. 16 
 
 Maqatama^ divine jewels, i. 30, 32 ; 
 ii. 143 
 
 Maget, Dr., on the advantages of the 
 Japan islands, i. 13 
 Mana, or the true name, i. 21 
 Manufactories, silk and Qhirimen, ii. 
 223 
 
 Masago imprisons her father, i. 157 
 Masashige, see Kusunoki 
 Masatsura defeats Taka-Uji’s general, 
 i. 173; interview with the em- 
 peror, 173 ; gallant death, 174 
 Matsuno Jinsha, Shinto temple of, ii. 
 208 
 
 Matsuzaka, birthplace of Motoori, ii. 
 241 ; visit to a girls’ school, 242 ; 
 the Geku shrine, 244 ; the Naiko, 
 or inner shrine, 248 ; ceremonial 
 temple dance, 252, 253 
 Mayezaka, village, its fishermen, ii. 
 283 
 
 Mayurama, mineral baths at, ii. 180 
 Mediterranean, the Japanese, i. 7 
 Michisane banished to Kiushiu, i. 
 134 ; deified as the god Ten] in, 
 134 
 
 MiharaorMirawa, bay and castle of, ii. 
 119 
 
 Mikado, the, palace at Kioto ; ii. 182 ; 
 throne-room, studio, 183 ; bed- 
 chamber, 184 ; apartments of the 
 empress, 184; imperial gardens, 
 184 
 
 , his summer-seat, ii. 186 
 
 Mikados, the, divine descent,!. 35, 37 ; 
 
350 
 
 MILLER. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 NIKKO SHRINES. 
 
 prayer of, 43 ; simplicity of their 
 lives, palaces, &c., 130; burial- 
 places, ii. 158 
 
 Miller, Mr. Max, i. xxiv. 73 
 Mimana pays tribute to Japan, i. 
 121 
 
 Mimosusogawa river, ii. 249 
 Minainoto family, the, i. 135 ; use the 
 white flag, 137 ; growing intluence, 
 139 ; rising military power, 140 ; 
 its greatest depression, 145 ; ascen- 
 dency, 150 ; struggles with the 
 Hojo family, 156 
 
 Minatogawa, great battle of, i. 171 
 Mines, the, placed under the direction 
 of Okubo-Nogayasu, i. 215 
 Miosho-Tenno, Empress, i. 226 
 Mirror, the sacred, symlDol of Shinto 
 faith, i. 29, 32, 34, 41 ; ii. 10 
 Mishima, great Shinto temple, ii. 
 299 ; its treasures, 299 ; the hago 
 of its god, 300 
 Missaka, ii. 284 
 
 Missionaries, Jesuit, burnt at Naga- 
 saki, i. 199 
 
 Miya, the port of Nagoya, ii. 266 ; its 
 gateways, 278 
 Miyagawa river, ii. 244 
 Miyajima, ancient temples of, ii. 
 120; sacred deer and monkeys, 
 121 ; Shinto temple at, 122 ; origin 
 of, 123, 124 ; Buddhist temple of 
 a thousand mats, 124; story of 
 Yoshitaka and Motonari, 124-126 
 Mochi-Uje, assassinated, i. 179 
 Model-picture, at the end of a 
 banquet, ii. 151, 203, 215 
 Monetary system, new, i. 325 
 Money order system, i. 327 
 Mongol Tartars, the, invasion by, i. 
 161 
 
 Monkeys, sacred, of Miyajima, ii. 120 
 Moon and the Cuckoo, the, legend of, 
 ii. 101-103 
 
 Morinaga, Prince, i. 166 ; murdered 
 by Taka-Uji, 176 
 
 “ Morning Land,” its meaning, i. 102 
 Motoori-Noringa, birthplace, ii. 241 ; 
 his writings, 241 
 
 Mounsey’sjMr., “ Satsuma Pebellion,” 
 i. 332 
 
 Mountains of Japan, height of, i. 4 
 Muller, Mr. Max, i. xxiv. 73 
 Music, Japanese, ii. 209 
 Musical instruments, ii. 149 
 Mutsn-Hito, present emperor of 
 
 Japan, i. 117 ; his oath to promote 
 representative government, 280 ; 
 distracted state of the empire on 
 his accession, 349 ; suppresses 
 successive rebellions, 350 ; sim- 
 plicity of his court, 351 ; troubles 
 of his reign, 352; constitutional 
 objects, 354; new form of govern- 
 ment, 355; list of cabinet ministers, 
 355 
 
 Mythology of Japan, less repulsive 
 than that of the Greeks, i. xxviii. ; 
 little understood, 19 ; the Sacred 
 Books which embody it, 20 
 
 Nagasaki, ii. 131 : coal-mines, 132 ; 
 government establishments, 133 ; 
 English church missionary society, 
 135 
 
 Nagoya, city of, ii. 272 ; banquet and 
 exhibition of porcelain, 272 ; castle, 
 273; gold fish, 274; attempts to 
 steal one, 274 ; history of the 
 castle, 275 
 
 Nai^Dai-jin, the ofiSce of, created, i. 
 128 
 
 Naiku, the inner shrine of the sun- 
 goddess, ii. 248 
 
 Nanjenji, Buddhist temple of, ii. 192 
 Nanko, i. 162 (see Kusunoki) 
 
 Nara, first view of, ii. 163 ; the great 
 temple of Dai-butsu, 165 ; colossal 
 god of bronze and gold, 165 ; the 
 supporters, 166 ; historic relics, 
 167 ; footprint of Buddha, 168 ; 
 the great bell, 170 ; other temples 
 of, 170-75 
 
 Nara empresses, the, revival of 
 Shinto under, i. 79 ; the imperial 
 capital during several reigns, 109, 
 131 
 
 Narumi town, ii. 278 
 
 Naval architecture first commenced, 
 
 i. 124 
 
 revolt suppressed, i. 286 
 
 Navy, the Japanese, destroyed by 
 by the Koreans, i. 307 
 
 , imperial, established, i. 321 
 
 Nichiren and his sect, i. 87 ; the 
 “ Ranters ” of Buddhism, 88 
 Night-crying stone, the, legend of, 
 
 ii. 289 
 
 Nightingale, the Japanese, ii. 302 
 Nihonki, the, i. 23 ; indication of 
 Chinese influence, 25 
 Nikko shrines, i. 281 
 
NINIGI-NO-MIKOTO. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PHEASANT. 
 
 351 
 
 is’ inigi-no-Mikoto, i. 29 ; the ‘ Sovran 
 grandchild,’ 30 ; "his residence at 
 Hiuga, 120 
 
 Nintokii at Osaka, i. 105, ii. 139 ; 
 and his brother, their generous 
 contention, i. 104 
 
 Nio, or Buddhist gatekeepers, ii. 26. 
 Nirvana, doctrine of, i. 68 
 Nishi-Honganji, great Shinshu tem- 
 ple of, ii. 212 
 
 Nishi-Otani, Shinshu temple of, ii. 
 222 
 
 Nitta Yosisada, i. 163 ; deserts from 
 the Hojo to the imperial cause, 
 163 ; his military success, 164 ; 
 appeal to the god of the sea, 165 ; 
 captures Kamakura, 165 ; gallant 
 death, 175 
 
 Nobunaga, rise of, i. 184; attacks 
 Yosimoto’s army and kills him, 
 185 ; commissioned by the emperor 
 to pacificate the country, 185; over- 
 throws the false Shogun, 185 ; the 
 battle of Anagawa, 186; his ability, 
 188 ; public acts, 189 ; made Udai- 
 jin, 189; protects Christianity, 190; 
 destroys the Buddhist priests, and 
 burns the temples of Hiyei-san to 
 the ground, 194 ; kills himself, 
 196 
 
 Norito, the, or Japanese ritual, i. 46- 
 52 
 
 Normal school, female, ii. 195-198 
 Nursery garden at Osaka, ii. 139 
 
 Observatory at Kanda, i. 235 
 0-harai, the, ii. 250, 251, n. 
 
 Oigawa river, i. 5, n., 205, 207 ; ii. 
 284, 285 
 
 Ojin-Tenno, the god of war, i. 104 ; 
 promotes ship-building, 124 ; writ- 
 ten characters first introduced, 
 125 ; his burial-place, ii. 158 ; still 
 worshipped by all classes, 159 
 Okazaki, birthplace of lyeyasu, ii. 
 
 278 ; granite quarries, 278 
 Oken-o, prince, declines the crown in 
 favour of his brother, Kenso, i. 106 
 Okio, the artist, ii. 87, 89 
 Oki Takuto, minister of justice, i. 362 
 Okubo memorandum, the, i. 284 
 Okuma, Mr., the finance minister, his 
 reforms, i. 358; the “Japanese 
 Gladstone,” 359 
 
 Oosimalighth ouse, precautions against 
 earthquakes, ii. 115 
 
 Organtin, Padre, his interview with 
 Nobunaga, i. 191 
 Origin of the Japanese, i. 14-17. 
 Osaka, the ancient Naniwa, an Im- 
 perial city, i. 105 ; rebellion at, 
 209 ; successive sieges of, 210, 211, 
 278 ; ii. 136 ; historic associations, 
 136 ; imperial reception-house, 138 ; 
 nursery garden, 139 ; Kozu Shinto 
 temple, 140 ; Ikudama temple, 
 140 ; ancient Buddhist temple of 
 Korujo, 140; temple of Sumi- 
 yoshi, the sea-gods, 141 ; musical 
 service, 142 ; museum, 142 ; pre- 
 historic boat, 142 ; magatama 
 jewels, 143 ; fair, 143 ; castle, 143 ; 
 modern arsenal, 144; immense 
 monoliths, 144 ; ceiling of arrows, 
 145 ; castle keep, barracks, 145 ; 
 private Japanese dinner, 146 ; pub- 
 lic dinner, 147 ; music and dances, 
 149 ; a speech by the president of 
 the chamber of commerce, 150; 
 dramatic performances, 151 ; shop- 
 ping expedition, 152 ; presents, 
 
 153 ; imperial mint, 153 ; coins, 
 
 154 
 
 Ota family, the, i. 184, see Nobunaga 
 
 Dokuan, builder of Yedo, i. 220 
 
 Otsu, ii. 232 
 
 0-usu, Prince, i. 121 ; disguises him- 
 self as a dancing-girl and slays the 
 arch - rebel, 122 ; his “ sacred 
 sword,” 123 ; his wife’s self- 
 sacrifice, 123 ; introduces lacquer- 
 work, 123 
 Owari bay, ii. 239 
 Oya-shiwo, the, or cold current, i. 7 
 Oye family, the, privileges of, i. 135 
 Oye, Prince, gives an impulse to 
 Buddhism, i. 79 
 
 Paper currency, national, i. 325 
 
 manufacture, at Ogi, ii. 41 ; 
 
 jToduced from different materials, 
 42-44 ; various uses of paper, 44, 
 45 
 
 Pappenberg, the rock of, Christians 
 hurled from, into the sea, i. 228 
 Penal servitude, i. 324 
 Perry, Commodore, at Uraga, urges a 
 commercial treaty, i. 246 ; appears 
 a second time, 247 ; obtains certain 
 privileges from the Shogun, 248 
 Pheasant, the sworded, legend of, ii. 
 290, 291 
 
352 
 
 PILGRIMS. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 SATOW'S. 
 
 Pilgrims to Is^, ii. 238, 243, 258 
 “ Pillow- words,” ii. 68 
 Pine-tree, an ancient, the Haneno- 
 Matz, ii. 175 ; legend of, 240 
 Pinshang captured by the Japanese, 
 
 i. 306 
 
 Poetry, Japanese, ii. 62 ; a verse by 
 the god Susanoo, 63 ; chant of the 
 goddess Uzume, 64 ; the Man- 
 yoshin, 64 ; a “ No,” 65 ; specimens 
 of native, 66 
 
 Police, the, ii. 12 ; escorts for the 
 cabinet ministers, 304 
 Police-force constituted, i. 322, 323 
 Population of Japan,* in 1744, i. 236 
 Porcelain ware, the, of Seto (Owari), 
 
 ii. 272 
 
 Ports, closing of the, i. 267 
 Portugal, beginning of intercourse 
 with Japan, i. 294 
 Postal system, i. xxxix. 327 
 Prayers, Shinto, i. 43, 44, 45, 49 
 Praying-wheel, the, ii. 28 
 Priests, Shinto, i. 61, 63, ii. 11 
 Principalities, the, surrendered, i. 319 
 Producers, the Divine and Lofty, i. 
 xxix. 27 
 
 Pi’ofessors brought from foreign coun- 
 tries, i. 129 
 
 Protestant Buddhists of Japan, the, i. 
 86 
 
 Proverbs and phrases of the people, ii. 
 105-112 
 
 Public instruction, progress of, i. 236 
 
 Race, the Japanese, its origin, i. xxvi. 
 14 
 
 Races, mixture of, i. 17 
 Railways, ii. 5, 6 
 
 Regalia, imperial, origin of the Japan- 
 ese, ii. 246 
 
 Reigen, Emperor, i. 230 
 Rein, Dr., on the climate of Japan, i. 
 7-9 
 
 Reizei-Tenno, revolt in his reign, i. 
 135 
 
 Relations of England and Japan, 
 present diplomatic, i. xxxi. lii. 
 Religion, early, of the Japanese, i. 
 xxvii. 39 
 
 Religious element in the Japanese, i. 
 xxvii. 
 
 Representatives, the foreign, receivf d 
 by Tenno the‘ Heaven-king,’ i. 279 
 
 * Present population, about 34 million.^. 
 
 Rice-fields, ii. 14 
 
 Richardson, Mr., murdered, i. 265 ; 
 
 indemnity demanded and paid, 266 
 Richiu, Emperor, i. 56 
 Righteous party, the, i. 283 
 River navigation, ii. 160, 161 
 River-beds, raised, ii. 160 
 Rivers, the principal, i. 4 
 Roman Catholicism in Japan (see 
 Christianity in Japan) 
 
 Ronins, the, rebellion of, i. 269 
 Buijin-Kokuslii, the, composed by 
 Sugawara-Michisane, i. 134 
 Russia, relations with Japan, i. 313 ; 
 message to the governor of Matsu- 
 maye, 315 ; obtains possession of 
 Saghalin, 317 
 
 Russian demands on Japan, i. 237, 
 247 ; war ships at Itorup, 313, 
 314, 317 
 
 Saburo Shimadzu, i. 265, 334 ; dis- 
 satisfaction, 335 ; visits Tokio, 337 ; 
 remonstrates with the imperial 
 government, 337 ; accepts nominal 
 office in the emperor’s household, 
 338 ; returns to Kagoshima, 338 
 Sagami, sea of, ii. 307 
 Saghalin surrendered to Russia, i. 
 317 
 
 Saigo of Satsuma, i. 333 ; hatred of 
 the Tokugawas, 334 ; attempts to 
 drown himself, 335 ; banished to 
 Oshima, 335 ; recalled, 335 ; sup- 
 posed political manifesto, 336 ; 
 commander-in-chief, 337 ; with- 
 draws to his province, 337 ; invests 
 Kumamoto, 341 ; Admiral Kawam- 
 I ura’s appeal to him, 342 ; his inso- 
 lent answer, 343 ; escapes, 345 ; 
 captures Kagoshima, 346 ; death 
 and burial, 347, 348 
 Saigo, General, minister at war, i. 359 
 Saikio, ii. 179 (see Kioto) 
 
 Saimei, Empress, i. 108 (see Kokioku) 
 Sakai, visit to, ii. 156 ; carpet-factory, 
 157 
 
 Sake, the national beverage, ii. 15, 
 148 
 
 Salt, production of, ii. 298 
 Samurai, the, i. 218, 219 
 Sanjo, prime minister, i. 256, 269, 
 270, 277, 356, ii. 20, 21 
 Satow’s, Mr. Ernest, writings on the 
 mythology and religion of Japan, 
 i. 20, 24, 26, 40, 44, 46, 62 
 
SATSUMA. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 SPENCER. 
 
 353 
 
 Satsuma and Chosbiu clans, long- 
 standing grievances of the, i. 242 ; 
 protect Kioto, 268 ; reconciled, 
 274 ; honours granted to, 279 
 Satsuma rebellion, the, i. 332-348 
 Saviour, Buddhist doctrine of a, 
 83-9 
 
 Scenery, country, ii. 14 
 School, female, in Tokio, i. 329 (see 
 also Kioto) 
 
 Schools of Japanese art, ii. 89 ; the 
 Korai Bin, 89 ; Kara Kin, 89 ; 
 Kanaoka Kin, 90 ; Takuma Kin, 
 90 ; Toba-ye, 90 ; Otsu-yd, 90 ; 
 Josetsu Kin, 90 ; Sesshiu Kin, 91 ; 
 Tosa Kin, 91 ; Kano Kin, 91 ; Icho 
 Kin, 91 ; Dkiyo-ye, 91 ; Shiyo Kin, 
 92 
 
 Scriptures, the Japanese Sacred (see 
 Kojiki and Nihonki) 
 
 Sedsagatake, battle of, i. 197 
 Seikenji, Buddhist temple, ii. 297 
 Seki, ii. 238 
 
 Seki-san, image of, i. xxi. 
 
 Sekigahara, battle of, i. 207-209 
 Sekis, or gates of the Tokaido, ii. 306 
 Semitic family of languages, the, 
 
 i. XXV. ; ii. 52 
 Semites, the-, ii. 77 
 Sempstresses, Chinese, i. 125 
 Seven Spearmen of Sedsagatake, i. 
 
 197 
 
 Shadoofs, or levers for raising water, 
 
 ii. 158 
 
 Shakyamuni Gautama Buddha, i. 66, 
 see Buddha 
 
 Shampooers, Japanese, ii. 13 
 Shibata resists Hideyoshi, i. 196; 
 defeated, kills his wife and children, 
 and commits suicide, 197 
 Shiba temples, the, i. 222, 282; ii. 
 22 
 
 Shidzuoka, formerlyFuchiu, also Sum- 
 pu, i. 205 ; ii. 286 ; lacquer, inlaid and 
 bamboo-work, 286 ; tea cultivation, 
 286 ; residence of lyeyasu, 287 ; 
 Hirata Atsutane composed his ‘Ko- 
 shi-seibun,’ 288 ; the “ night-crying 
 stone,” 289 ; the sworded pheasant, 
 290 ; wishing bell, 292 
 Shimabara, Christian revolt at, i. 227; 
 
 besieged and captured, 228 
 Shiraadzu family, its policy, i. 333 
 Shimagomo, Shinto temple at, ii. 185 
 Shimonoseki, bombardment of, i. 268 ; 
 straits of, ii. 127 ; attack of the 
 VOL. II. 
 
 combined squadrons, 128 ; the town? 
 129 ; legend of the temjde, 130 ; 
 overthrow of the Taira, 130 
 Shinji, or God letters, ii. 55-6 
 Shinraii Shonin, doctrine of, i. 83 ; 
 
 founder of the Shinshu, 83 
 Shin -Shu, brief account of, i. 84 ; its 
 creed, 86 
 
 Shinto religion, its kami or gods, i. 
 xxvii. 39 ; its reverence for great 
 and heroic ancestors, i. xxix. ; its 
 ritual , or norito, 46-52 ; a real 
 religious system, 53 ; simple forms 
 of worship, 59 ; purification and 
 cleanliness, 60, 61 ; respect for 
 life, 61 ; simple demeanour of their 
 priests, 61 ; temples and votive 
 offerings, 62 
 
 temples near Sakai, ii. 177 
 
 Shiriaku, the Kinse, i. 241 
 Shiuniyodo, Buddhist temple of, ii. 
 191 
 
 Shiyo Kin, founded by Okio, ii. 87 
 Shogitai rebels, the, i. 281 ; driven 
 from Wooyeno, 282 
 Shogunate, the, founded, i. 153 ; made 
 hereditary by Taka-Uji, 175 
 Shoguns, the, origin of their title, 
 
 i. 152 ; became the real masters of 
 the country, 153 ; the decline of 
 their power, 184 ; their final over- 
 throw in 1867, 275 
 
 Shohei and Tenkei, revolt of, i. 112 
 Shokkoba, weaving factory at Kioto, 
 
 ii. 194 
 
 Shop, a movable, ii. 12 
 Shops, native, ii. 8, 9, 24 
 Shotoku, Empress, spread of Bud- 
 dhism under, i. 80 
 
 Shotoku-Taishi, i. 76; story of his 
 life, 77, 78 ; his carvings in the 
 temple of Horiuji, ii. 162 
 Schucho-Shinno, the prince-priest at 
 Nikko, i. 230 
 
 Shugakuin, summer-seat of the Mi- 
 kado, ii. 186 
 
 Silk factories, (see Kioto) 
 Simultaneous dynasties, the, 167 
 Siomizaka, colossal bronze statue of 
 Kwannon at, ii. 281 
 Smuggling suppressor!, i. 234 
 Son-o, the priest, story of, i. 222, 
 223 
 
 Spaniards, beginning of intercourse 
 with Japan, i. 294 
 Spencer, Mr. Herbert, i. 28 
 
 2 A 
 
354 
 
 SPIRIT, 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 TOKIO. 
 
 Spirit, the roii^h, and the gentle, i. 
 45 
 
 Stature of Japanese men and women, 
 i. 17; ii. 157 
 
 Steamships, commercial, i. 322 
 StirlinoTj Rear-Admiral, in Japan, i. 
 251^ 
 
 Stone, the Sacred, i. 30, 32 
 Sudsuga, mountain pass of, ii. 238 
 Sugar-cane, its culture introduced into 
 Japan, i. 235 
 
 Sugawara family, the, i. 132 ; literary 
 fame, 133 
 
 Suiko, first Empress of Japan, i. 
 108 ; diplomatic intercourse between 
 Japan and China, 289 
 Suinin, Emperor, his humane works, i. 
 ' 55 
 
 Suisei, and other emperors, i. 102, 
 103 
 
 Sujin, Emperor, ‘ the Civilizer,’ his 
 efforts for the welfare of his people, 
 
 i. 54; the father of Japanese agri- 
 culture, 55 ; relations between 
 Korea and Japan, 121 
 
 Sumiyoshi, the temple of the sea-gods, 
 
 ii. 141 ; musical service, 142 
 Sumpu, ii. 286 (see Shidzuoka) 
 Sun-goddess, the (see Amaterasu) 
 Sunten, son of Tametomo, king of 
 
 Loo-choo, i. 309 
 
 Surazaga, miraculous appearance of 
 the goddess Kwannou to Prince 
 Bezin at, ii. 280 
 Suruga Bay, ii. 297 
 Susanoo, god of the sea ; i. 29, 31 ; 
 
 his poem, ii. 63 ; offence, 245 
 Sword, the Sacred, i. 29 ; ii. 266 ; its 
 history, 267-269 
 
 Sword-making, an honourable pro- 
 fession, ii. 270 
 
 Swords, their estimation in Japan, 
 ii. 269; forms and qualities, 270; 
 inscriptions, 271 ; etiquette of, 
 271 ; celebrated, and makers, 328- 
 342 
 
 Symbols, religious, of Japan, origin of, 
 i. 34 
 
 Tadamori repels the pirates, i. 139 
 Taiko Hideyoshi, summer residence 
 of, ii. 212 ; atthe Kiyomidzu temple, 
 220 ; and the Dai-butsii, 225 (see 
 also Hideyoshi) 
 
 Tiiira family, the, i. 135 ; use the red 
 flag, 137 ; rising military power. 
 
 140 ; ascendency, 145 ; final pur- 
 suit and overthrow, 150 
 Taira Masakado, the “ new emperor,” 
 i. 112; his boy emperors, 113 
 Takahara, town of, ii. 120 
 Takashima, coal-mines of, ii. 132, 133 
 Taka-Uji proclaims Yiita-Hito, i. 116 ; 
 the first of the Ashikagas, 165; 
 obtains possession of Kioto and 
 raises Komio-Tenuo to the throne, 
 174 ; enjoys all but imperial power 
 at Kamakura, 174 ; makes the 
 Shogunate hereditary, 175 ; his 
 character, 176 
 
 Tametomo, the famous archer, i. 141 
 Tariff convention, the, ii. 321-325 
 Tatsuta village, ii. 161 
 Tea-drinking, ii. 15 
 Tea-making, ceremonial, ii. 225 
 Telegraphs, land, i. 327 
 'J'emperature, i. 14 
 
 'J’emple, Shinto, ii. 10 ; mode of wor- 
 ship, 10 ; the Torii, 11 
 Temples, Buddhist, in Japan, number 
 of, i. 90 
 
 Temples of Shiba, i. 222 ; destroyed, 
 282 
 
 Tengan or infinite vision, discourse 
 on, i. 92-99 
 
 Tenji-Tenno, his reforms and inven- 
 tions, i. 127 ; founds the first school 
 in Japan, 127 ; creates the office of 
 Dai-jo-Dai-jin, 128; and of Kai- 
 Dai-jin, 128 ; his wise reign, 128 
 Tenrin, river, ii. 279; bridge over, 
 283 
 
 Terashima, minister for foreign affairs, 
 i. 357 
 
 To, a ten-leaved, at Kiyomidzu, ii. 
 221 
 
 Toba gives the name to Tobaye, or 
 caricatures, ii. 84 
 Toji temples, the, ii. 210 
 Tpkaido, the, ii. 232, 278 ; neglected 
 state of, 310 
 
 Tokio (Yedo) arrival of the emperor, 
 i. 285 ; the capital and residence of 
 the emperor, 320; founded, ii. 21 ; 
 castle, 21 ; temples, 22 ; VVooyeno, 
 22 ; European buildings, 23 ; native 
 shops, 24 ; temple of Asakusa, 24 ; 
 the Nio, or giant gate-keepers, 26 ; 
 lacquer- work, 31-36 ; bronze- work, 
 36-41 ; paper-manufacture, 41-45 ; 
 government and administration, 
 45 ; statistic account, 45-47 
 
TOKIWA. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 YOSHIDA. 
 
 355 
 
 Tukiwa, the peasant girl, mother of 
 Yositsune, i. 146 
 
 Tokugawa Shoguns, list of, i. 238 ; 
 rebels assume the name of Shogitai, 
 281 ; tomb-temples, ii. 22 ; their 
 family city, 286-8 
 
 Torii, description of the, i. 62; a 
 large, in the sea, ii. 120 
 Torture abolished, i. 324 
 Tos i Nikki, or “ Tosa Diary,” ii. 57- 
 61 
 
 Tosa school, or Rin, ii. 85 
 Trade, freedom of, i. xl.-xlii. 
 
 dollar, the Japanese, i. 326 
 
 regulations, British, in Japan, 
 
 ii. 316-320 
 
 Transmigration, the Buddhist doc- 
 trine of, i. 74 
 
 Treaty, the English, i. xlii. ; of Lord 
 Elgin, xliii. ; of 1858, xlv. ; between 
 Japan and Europe and the United 
 States, 273 ; between Great Britain 
 and Japan, ii. 311-316 
 Trinity, a Taiwanese, i. 25 
 Tsii, town, ii. 262 
 Tsuchiyama village, ii. 236 
 Tsunayoshi, Shogun, i. 232 ; promotes 
 education and literature, 233 ; his 
 changes in the coinage, 233 
 Tungusic race, the Japanese, a, i. 16 
 Tunnel through a mountain, ii. 285 
 Turanian tongues, the, i. xxiv., xxv., 
 ii. 52 
 
 Turauian white race in Africa, ii. 76 
 Turano-African Empire, a, i. xxv. 
 17 ; ii. 76-79 
 
 Tycoons (Tai-kims), the, i. 2C9 ; ii. 21 
 Typhoons, i. 12, 13 
 
 UchLmochi, the goddess, ii. 245 
 Uji, village, ii. 227, do. in Ise, 249 
 Ukiyo-ye, or social pictures, ii. 86,87 
 University (Daigakko), the, at Tokio, 
 i. 329 
 
 Uziime, the goddess, i. 32 ; her danc- 
 ing, 33 
 
 Vedism, i. 64 
 
 Vegetable productions, i. 13 
 Volcanic disturbances, i. 9 
 Votive offerings, i. 62 
 Vries, volcanic island of, i. 3 
 
 Wakamatsu, siege of, i. 283 
 Wakamiya, Shinto shrine of, ii. 173 ; 
 religious dance, 174 
 
 Waki-Irako, Prince, suicide of, i. 105 
 Wani, tutor to Prince Waki-Irako, 
 
 i. 126 
 
 Watanabe Shoka, the famous artist, 
 
 ii. 279 
 
 Wicked Party, the, i. 283 
 Wind, god, and goddess of the, i. 44 
 Women, Japanese, their influence on 
 literature, ii. 67, 68 
 Wooyeno, fighting at, i. 281 ; temples 
 at, ii. 22 
 
 Xaviek, the Jesuit missionary at 
 Kioto, i. 190 
 
 Yamada, ancient shrines of Ise, ii. 
 244 
 
 Yamagata, General, his victories over 
 the rebels, i. 283 
 
 Yamato-Dake, Prince, i. 121 ; his 
 expedition against the Ainos, ii. 
 267 (see 0-usn) 
 
 Yamato, baths of, ii. 307 ; Mr. Saido’s 
 hotel, 307 ; mixed bathing, 308 
 Yayeyama islands, the, i. 3 
 Year-periods, list of, ii. 328-330 
 Yedo (Tokio) founded by lyeyasu, i. 
 220; ravaged by fire, 230; rapid 
 growth of, 231 ; its name changed 
 to Tokio, 284 
 
 , gulf of, ii. 2 
 
 Yen, the, or dollar, i. 326 
 Yezo island, attacked by the Russians, 
 i. 237 
 
 Yokkaichi, ii. 263, 264 
 Yokohama, English troops stationed 
 at, i. 259 
 
 bay, ii. 2 
 
 Yorimasa, the legend of, ii. 102 
 Yoritomo, founder of Kamakura, i. 
 146 ; banished to Idsu, and marries 
 ]\Iasago of the house of Hojo, 147 ; 
 his progress through the Kuanto, 
 148 ; tries to assassinate his brother 
 Yositune, 151 ; his title of Sei-i- 
 Shogun, 152 ; increases his power, 
 153; his character, 154; his grave 
 at Kama-kura, 155 
 Yoshi-ye, afterwards Hachiman-Toro, 
 ^ i. 138 
 
 Yoshiaki, made Shogun, i. 185 ; 
 conspires against Nobunaga, 186 
 I Yoshida, Shinto temple of, ii. 189 ; 
 1 tombs of the Mikados, 190 ; town, 
 i 279 
 
356 
 
 YOSHIMASA. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 YURIAKU. 
 
 Yosbimasa, Shogun, i. 181 ; culti- 
 vates the arts, 183 ; introduces 
 ceremonial tea-making, ii. 225 
 Yoshimitzu, the ex-Shogun, accepts 
 from China the title of “ King of 
 Japan,” i. 293 
 
 Yoshimoto, monument to, ii. 278 
 Y^oshimime, Shogun, his interest in 
 astronomy and other branches of 
 science, i. 234; builds an obser- 
 vatory, 235 ; called the “ Rice 
 Shogun,” 235 
 
 Yoshinaka, the “ Morning Sun Gene- 
 ral,” i. 148-50 
 
 Y’’oshinoro, Shogun, assassinated, i. 179 
 Yoshitane, Shogun, imprisoned, re- 
 stored, and again deposed, i. 183 
 Yoshitoshi, envoy to Korea, i. 302 
 Yosisada, i. 169, (see Nitta) 
 
 Yositomo, i. 140, 144 ; his wife and 
 three sons, 146 
 
 Yositsune, the “Bayard” of Japan, i. 
 146 ; joins his brother Yoritomo, 
 147 ; his persecutions, wanderings, 
 and assassination, 151 
 Yuriaku, Emperor, encourages the cul- 
 ture of the silkworm, i. 56 ; sends 
 for foreign artists, 129 
 
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