OF THE Theological Seminary. PRINCETON, N. J. Case DSbU Shelf .3*397 Book V-2. TEN YE AES IN SABAWAK. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2016 https://archive.org/details/tenyearsinsarawa02broo i Vi'lOUUspiCl TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK BY CHARLES BROOKE, TUAN-MUDA OF SARAWAK. WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY E.E. TEE BAJAE SIR JAMES BROOKE. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. LONDON : TINSLEY BROTHERS, 18 , CATHERINE ST., STRAND. 1866. [The Right of Translation is reserved.] LONDON! BRADBURY, EVANS, AND CO., PRINTERS, WHITEFRIAR CONTENTS. CHAPTEB I. PAGE New year’s festivities — Boat-races — Mysterious letter — Waylaying parties — Impostor makes off — Further conspiracies brewing — Seriff Massahore suspected — Troubles in Sadong — Inquiry — Staunchness of Datus — Appearance of Seriff Massahore — Certain complications — Filing at Seriff Massahore — His escape — Proceeded up Sadong — Escape of conspirators — Meet the population — Their stupidity — Leave Gadong — Two men murdered — Letters appear — Lingga rascality — Harangue the populace — Further letters — My Dyaks’ boats — Conspirators surrender — The impostor waylaid — His imprisonment — Con- fession — Eagerness of Dyaks — Force — Sarikei — Egan — Con- flagrations — Kanowit — Conference — A character — Mr. Brooke Brooke — He reassumes the government — Santubong — Life — Beports — New gun-boat — Start for Mukah — Evening confab — Mukah — Policy — The first shot — Our entry — Beconnoitre — Land operations — Stockaded pinnace — Drifting booms — Alarms — Our night ascent — Unpleasant position — Promis- cuous blazing — Besults — Further ascent — Monotonous life — Beinforced — Land march — Disturbance of enemies — Sur- prising intelligence — Hostilities cease — A visitor — Our return Galling interference — British officials — State of coast — Seriff Massahore’s emissaries — False reports — Urgent request of Kanowit Dyaks — Building fort — Enemies — Kaluka people — Their exodus — Proposed deer-snaring — Attack on Saribus Dyaks — Sickness — Enemy decamps — Sakarang — A Mukah visit and episode 1 VI CONTEXTS. CHAJPTER H. TAGS Lonely soliloquies — Dyak feast — -Questions of importance — Ma- hommedan school — A sceptic — Eyak peace-making — Custom — Trip to TJndup — Bore — Undup Dyaks — A morning nip — A walk — Lying heaps — Watching for deer — Superstition — Dyak forces — A lad caught napping — His story — Steamer “Rain- bow ” — Her value — Visit to Brunei — Annexation of coast — Sago — Forests — Boats and tactics — Expedition to Sarikei — A sight — Dyak boats 72 CHAPTER HI. Runaway match — Alligators — Slave woman — Malay marriage — Trivial cases — Sympathy — Ladies’ advice — Preparations for expedition — Rentap’s second wife — TJndup Dyaks — Start — Sungei Ludam — Saribus — Kindness of Dyak — Ascent of river — Behaviour of men — Our march — Dyak strength — Bad paths — Caution to travellers — Landing a gun — Boasting assertion — Rentap — Submission of a division — Rentap’s per- tinacity — Pig killing — Burning on Sadok — Loyioh’s appear- ance — The intense labour of gun carrying — Its arrival on the summit — Open fire — Entry and victory — The contents — Arms recovered — Place burnt — Gun left — We descend — Bivouack for night — Snake’s intrusion — Wet and weary — Arrival at home — Calm — Saribus Malays — The Laximana — His last request of me 106 CHAPTER IV. Proposed journey — My companions — Aing’s remark — A China- man — The fresh — Trading with profit — Complicated cases — • Malay life — First rapid — Dyak agility — Sceneiy — Dyak dress — Visit from ladies — Ballei — His appearance — A Dyak woman — Proceed in small boats — Polling — Wet skins — Alarm of Dyaks — Taype’s loquacity — The march — Leeches — First bi- vouack — Slipperiness of way — Sick man — Dyak’s breakfast — Dislike to food — Rawei Hill — Deer disturbed — A miss — A boa CONTENTS. TAGE constrictor — Fatigue — Leeches — Saribus Dyak — Path spiked — Descent to Katibus stream — Unpleasant wade — Last meal — Sickness — Descent on rafts — Scarcity of provisions — Meet Kanowit people — Eapids — Bakatans — Arrived at Kanowit — Our emaciated condition — Bid farewell to Kanowit — End of cruise — Bid adieu to Dallei — Saribus Dyak’s affliction — Apei Bakir’s wisdom in dreams — Christmas occupation — Humour in Dyak — Death of Malay friend 157 CHAPTER Y. Departure from Sakarang — Mr. Watson takes charge — Remarks by Dyaks — My farewell desire — Singapore — Steamer’s life — Malta — Arrival at home — Changes — The poorer classes — Com- parison between light and dark — Attack by Mr. B. Brooke on Lanun fleet — Their demolition — The captives — H.M.’s steamers sent too late — Remarks on Lanuns — Governor of Singapore visits Sarawak — Its result — My return to Sarawak • — Arrival at Sakarang — Visit to the coast — Uninteresting people — Kayan peace-making — Dress — Bakatan man — The Mukah swings — Change for the better — A sick friend . . 207 CHAPTER VI. Kayan expedition — Consultation with chiefs — Depredations — Pre- parations— Start — Peculiarities of natives — Feelings — Omens — Decrease of observance— Birds — Effects of ominous signs — Advance — Dilatoriness of Dyaks — Sickness — Kaluka — People — Reports — Apprehension— Entrance of Rejang river— Dis- tance — Inhabitants — Arrival at Kanowit — Preparation of arms, &c. — Rendezvous — Boats — Building of boats — Steele’s opinion — Custom — Start — Katibus — Enemies and friends — Confusion of force — Native nature — Insolent message — Balleh stream — Bakatans and Ukits — Aim of arrows — Bees — Ap- pearance and capabilities of country — Chinese — Our rendez- vous — Beautiful sight — Dyak conference — Balang’s discourse — Skylarking — Ascent of rapids — The ropes — Activity of men ■ — Dry rocks — Destruction of boats — Few accidents — Jungle flowers — Hard rock — Boat sinks — Ducking — Entry to Fitz’s CONTENTS. viii PAGE boat — Dispersion of crew — Dyak sympathy — Kum Nipa’s first abode — Steele’s visit — Dyak’s element — Graveyards and monumental pillars — Death by torture — Bees continue — Kayan treachery — "Wonderful escape — Healthiness of force — Kum Nipa’s second abode — Uncertainty of enemy — Scent of enemy — Long house — News — Sight of enemy — Confusion — Preparation of arms— Panic and noise — Plight of enemy — Plunder of house — Flames — Advance — Destruction to pro- perty — Fresh increasing — Majawah — Kajamans and Kayans — Yonghang — Chief — Father and son — Accomplishments — Fresh continues — Advance — Gorge — J ok’s performance — Smooth and troubled water — Sharper rocks — Man killed — Trial of speed and strength — Smashing of boats — Makun rapid — Its dangers — Loss of boat — Wonderful escapes — Boatless Europeans — Dangers past — Dastardly cowardice of enemy — Captives taken — Cultivation — Natural fortification — Captive — Our descent — Yonghang and Kum Nipa — Prefixes to names — Kapidity of descent — A ten-feet jump — Description of tribes — Customs — Appearance — Strange Bakatans — Betum to Sa- karang — Difficulties with Dyaks — Arrival of Kayans — Wish for friendship — Conference — Heads of Kalei and Talip — Ba- lang’s punishment — Atrocious practice — His behaviour — ■ Captive boys — Kayan peace— Representations — Peace — Out- side and inside — Balias — Injurious effect of — Rejang river — Its importance — Government — Sakarang — Restoration of Saribus goods — Reforms passed — The last murderer — His execution — Appearance — Heroic end 230 Concluding Remakes 313 Appendix . 341 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE DYAKS ........ Frontispiece TRACK OF JOURNEY BY LAND AND RIYER FROM SAKARANG TO KANOWIT 158 THE FOOT OF LOWER RAPED 253 THE MAKTJN RAPID 291 THE CHURCH 323 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK CHAPTER I. New year’s festivities — Boat-races — Mysterious letter — Waylaying parties — Impostor makes off — Further conspiracies brewing — Seriff Massahore suspected — Troubles in Sadong — Inquiry — Staunchness of Datus — Appearance of Seriff Massahore — Certain complications — Filing at Seriff Massahore — His escape — Proceeded up Sadong — Escape of conspirators — Meet the population — Their stupidity — Leave Gadong — Two men murdered — Letters appear — Lingga rascality — Harangue the populace — Further letters — My Dyaks’ boats — Conspirators surrender — The impostor waylaid — His imprisonment — Confession — Eagerness of Dyaks — Force — Sarikei — Egan — Conflagrations — Kanowit — Con- ference — A character — Mr. Brooke Brooke — He reassumes the government — Santubong — Life — Reports — New gun-boat — Start for Mukah — Evening confab — Mukah — Policy — The first shot — Our entry — Reconnoitre— Land operations — Stockaded pinnace — Drifting booms — Alarms — Our night ascent — Unpleasant position — Promiscuous blazing — Results — Further ascent — Monotonous life — Reinforced — Land march — Disturbance of enemies — Sur- prising intelligence — Hostilities cease — A visitor — Our return — Galling interference — British officials — State of coast — Seriff Mas- sahore’s emissaries — False reports — Urgent request of Kanowit Dyaks — Building fort — Enemies — Kaluka people — Their exodus — Proposed deer-snaring — Attack on Saribus Dyaks — Sickness — Enemy decamps — Sakarang — A Mukah visit and episode. January, 1860. — The new year’s festivities in Sarawak are accompanied by something more like the YOL. II. B 2 TEX YEARS IN SARAWAK. average amount of joy and gaiety than people would generally imagine in so small and isolated a place. The scene of social amalgamation and good feeling unostentatiously displayed between the natives and European communities, is very pleasing to witness. The Malays are like water dogs, and they are such expert canoe-pa ddlers, that boat-racing is the most appropriate amusement to be found for them, and is welcomed with great delight and excitement. A large assemblage is collected on the Government Hill, dressed in their best and finest clothes, numbering as many as from three to four hundred people, sitting or standing in picturesque groups under the shade of trees. Early in the day a breakfast is given at Government House, after which a gun is fired, as a preparatory warning, and the prizes of money are placed ready for passing into the winner’s hands. In the first race any boat may enter, though chiefly large boats with strong crews compete. They are then drawn up, as nearly in line as possible, for a fair start, a signal is given with a flag, and off they go, raising a wave fatal to many of the smaller craft, which within a minute or so are left, with the heads of their disconsolate crews only visible out of water. The remainder advance with a sharp but steady springy stroke, which brings a boat’s bow up and over, the BOAT EACES. 3 spring of the body greatly assisting the stroke of the paddle. After a pull of two-thirds of a mile they round a vessel anchored in the river ; the turning generally swamps many, all trying to turn in their own length, either running foul of the vessel, or else they are run into by the boats coming up behind. This point passed, they fly down again with a much longer and more sweeping stroke, and those in the leading boat now play slightly, throwing their paddles high, when lifting them out of water. They pull past the winning-post, and have to go round another vessel, which is seldom done without a few more accidents, and then hard at it for the finish, to the winning-post, on passing which a gun is fired, and the winners immediately draw in, dash overboard and up the bank, breathless, dripping, and wild. Then they receive the prizes, and with a few yells they are again among their crew of fellows, chaffing and laughing merrily over the fun. Indeed, I do not believe they so much care for the money, as for the excitement it causes. There are generally six or seven races in all, some of shorter courses, for the smaller boats with limited crews. The people seldom or never quarrel on these occasions, and good temper is soon restored imme- diately after any dispute. Besides boat-racing, running in sacks and climbing the greasy pole greatly 4 TEN TEAES IN SARAWAK amuse the bystanders ; there is also swimming and jumping ; and all ends happily with most of those who have taken an active part being very fatigued. A few of the longest boats measure from fifty to sixty feet, and pull thirty-five paddles on each side. This spec- tacle, and general meeting has a good effect on the natives, and tends to excite a kindly feeling among all parties. But such feelings rested on no permanent base. Only a few days after this event, an important letter was brought to me, when I was busily engaged in super- intending some of the public works. We retired into an inner room to hear what now was to be the up- shot of the bearer’s solemn countenance. Pangeran Mathusein first of all produced the letter, which he said had been sent from one of the principal Brunei Bajahs (Pangeran Tumonggong). The letter ordered Pangeran Mathusein to proceed to a neighbouring river where, the Bajah said, he w T as now staying, and waiting for a numerous force which would number many thousands. The bearers of this letter told us they had seen the said Pangeran, who was very exacting and authoritative, issuing his orders, which, were promptly obeyed. I was surprised, and concluded at once it was false from the name, but still there was danger in such a barefaced plot. Mathusein was very nervous and excited, and considered there might be MYSTERIOUS LETTER. truth in it. The members of Council were at once assembled, and the letter shown to them ; they came to the conclusion, also, that it must be the work of some impostor. We lost no time in sending away two parties of armed men to waylay this rascal, who, false as he might be, was nevertheless capable of doing a great amount of injury among so ignorant and sheep- like a population as were to be found in many places on the coast. One party was dispatched by sea round to the Sadong, and the other, under the charge of Mr. Hay, up the Sarawak river, to cut off his retreat, in the event of his being bound towards the Pontianak. Mr. Hay pushed on, and walked over hill and dale from morning to night, until he reached the point at the head of Sadong river, two days too late to catch this miscreant, who had passed on, accompanied by many followers, all paying him the greatest respect, and who were now carry ino- him across on a litter, to the Pon- tianak river. Mr. Hay made inquiry of the people located in the vicinity, and was told he had made the most extortionate demands, and had eagerly received what came into his net ; but was most anxious the whole time to make his way as fast as possible into the Kapuas waters, beyond the territory of Sarawak. The end of this man’s aspiring career was, that on G TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. reaching a town on the other side, he was received with salutes and other honours, passed himself off as the Pangeran Tumonggong, and hastily demanded a wife. This request was somewhat ill-timed, and caused suspicion ; at any rate, the father of the lady demurred, and while this was going on, the house, one fine morning, was found surrounded by Dutch troops. Finding escape hopeless, he surrendered him- self, and one real Pangeran who had been duped into following him was killed, and another badly wounded. The impostor was carried down the river in chains, and sent to prison in Batavia. It was a gross piece of rascality ; but there was intrigue deep and dangerous at the foundation, which was gradually unfolding itself. The people’s minds had been prepared for this false prophet to oppose the present Government of Sarawak. The countries lie had passed through were now in an excited state, and filled with every kind of false report. Some of the head men declared they were ready to live and die in supporting this impostor’s claims. All parties around us had now a stronger suspicion than ever that the Seriff Massahore was, and had been, the secret in- stigator of these proceedings from the first, as there was really no one else left to take any leading part, the Datu Hadji having been banished the country. FURTHER CONSPIRACIES BREWING. 7 At this very time we received information that the Seriff Massahorc was approaching Sarawak. Our best chiefs, by ones and twos, came to me cautiously and secretly, and earnestly breathed their anxieties about this individual, saying, “Do what you think best for the safety of the country ; we are ready to follow you.” All our guns were loaded at this time, and we never moved without being armed. This appearance gave our friends great confidence, and the doubtful ones considerable fear. A small force of about ten large boats and one pinnace was organised to proceed against the Gadong people of Sadong, where the im- postor had principally been supported. The head man of their country, Bandar Kassim, had sent an open challenge to Sarawak. He had been a bad fellow from the first, half fool and half knave, but capable of being misled at any time. On the clay before starting, I received the Malay chiefs of Sarawak, and laid the plan of our future proceedings before them. Firstly, Seriff Massahore was not to be received in Sarawak, under any pretence whatever ; secondly, we were to take Bandar Kassim, dead or alive, and bring him to trial for his rebellious proceedings. I told them my opinion was, that the Seriff Massahore had been the instigator of the plot, in connection with the Datu Hadji of Sarawak, to whom he was nearly related, his 8 TEN YEAES IN SABAWAK. brother having married a daughter of the Datu. The brother had lately been much about the Government House, and had on more than one occasion made very suspicious inquiries : such as asking about the opening of some of the doors, the windings of the passages, and the different bidders leading to my bedroom, &c. This did not come to my ears until some time after- wards. A letter was now sent to him, stating that in case the SerifT Massahore arrived in Sarawak, he would be looked on as an enemy, and his boat fired into. I told the chiefs, also, I entertained a strong suspicion that the Brunei Government were backing up SerifT Massahore, as we had received intelligence from a trustworthy source that an agent, who had been dis- patched along the coast within the Brunei dominions, had been oppressing the people by exorbitant demands, and had held communication with the Seriff Massa- hore, to whom a kris had been presented. This kris was Tor the purpose of putting all the white men in Sarawak to death. One of our chiefs exclaimed, in an exasperated manner, “ I will never be again under the Brunei Government. I would rather live all my life in caves, and feed off jungle-leaves, than be ruled by them.” We started from Sarawak with our small force, and before we had proceeded many miles down the river APPEARANCE OF SEEIFF MASSAHORE. 9 we met two large praxis advancing, and these we at once concluded brought the suspected man in question. We anchored, and they anchored, when a Seriff and old servant was dispatched to Massahore, to tell him he must return with all speed to his own country, as he could not be received in Sarawak. His followers altogether with him in these two boats could not have O numbered fewer than seventy men. In the evening we proceeded towards Sadong, and the boats of Seriff Massahore followed us. The night after, as we had just anchored at Simunjan, in Sadong, I had retired to lie down, with a splitting headache, after an intensely hot day. While in this position, three men had been received by John Channon, and brought to me. These people had been friends of ours from the first, and were attached to every body and thing that had any connection with the Rajah. They said they had arrived here only a short time before us, but had been very anxious about a report they had heard on the way. They called at a house, and were secretly informed by a person to warn the Tuan Mudah to look out, as the informant said, “My relatives, who are followers of Seriff Massahore, assured me he is going to Sarawak with the sole purpose of putting all the white men to death.” He added, “ Tell Tuan Mudah of it, as they intend to strike at him first 10 TEX YEAES IX SAEaWAK. of all." I felt positive before, but where was the black and white evidence to produce if I took active measures against this man ? However, this fresh in- formation — coupled with the excessively dangerous pre- dicament in which we were placed, with an enemy above us awaiting our arrival, and the Seriff Massahore with his bio; boat anchored now below us in the Sadoim river — determined me to act strenuously, and I again met the chiefs for the purpose of telling them the time had now arrived to waive fine distinctions. Another twenty-four hours of inaction might give the enemy time to make all their preparations, and then it would be too late. This festering wound, which was growing worse every moment, must be sum- marily eradicated before it had entirely destroyed the Government of Sarawak, and deprived us of our lives and property. Panglima Seman and Pangeran Mathu- sein said plainly, “ He is the enemy to strike ; the rest are mere trifles.” The other chiefs were calm and quiet. Our force was again put in order, and we silently dropped down the river, and took up our position by these big boats which, contrary to orders, had followed us into this river. I sent immediately to take their sampans away, fearing the culprit might fly during the nigdit. O FIRING INTO SERIFF MASSAHOEE. 11 As the morning dawned, a work was commenced for which I may perhaps have deserved blame from some, though many subsequently have remarked that my course had not been severe enough to ensure the safety of the country. My readers may judge for themselves, for the deed was done, and I merely have to detail facts as they occurred, without addition and without concealment. Subsequent events have proved that all my conclusions were well founded and correct, for on no occasion was there anything done without due consideration. The Seriff, it should be known, is supposed to be a descendant of the Prophet, and held in awe to a con- siderable extent in the country, extending his power and authority over the lives and property of people who are too ignorant to oppose what they consider to be the irremediable rule of great over small. No one beside my own boat’s crew, and only a few even of those, would dare to touch his person ; he was sanctified by the Mussulmans’ religious authority. If I could have seized the fellow and put him in irons, I would have gladly resorted to such a measure ; but it was simply impossible ; so I had determined to permit as many of Ins crew to leave as felt inclined, and then to fire into him until his boat sunk and drifted out to sea. I knew, as well as 12 TEN YE AES IN SAEaWAK. all my followers, that the villain deserved death, and this was, as I considered, the most appropriate manner of inflicting it. Abangs Ali and Atep, who had been enticed to join him on his voyage, and I believe were imiorant of the desirns of it, came at once, and I confronted them on deck, saying, “ That Seriff Massa- hore should suffer death ; he had intended taking my life ; but the news having reached me in time, I should retaliate his intention on his own person.” Abang Ali, without attempting to prove his innocence, or ask for pardon, merely said, “ Would it not be better to banish him to another country 1 ” These two men sent for their things, and quietly took a place among our force. A few of his people remained with him, refusing to leave. The guns opened fire and his boat was soon struck about the water-mark, and she was beginning to fill, when a breeze sprung up ; they cut their rattan cables, and the boat drifted ashore, when the Seriff and his few followers fled as hard as they could go into the jungles. Our men instantly entered the boat and plundered everything on board of her; but we could see what a hopeless reluctance there was to try to follow up the culprit. Some thought him invulnerable, others said he had power of wetting powder from a distance, and blunting the edge of weapons when used against ESCAPE.— STUPIDITY OF THE POPULATION. 13 himself. His time had not come, and so, whether for good or for evil, it could not he helped. He had already occasioned the deaths of hundreds, many of whom he had put to death with his own hand in cold blood. We searched for him for one day and a half, and then proceeded up the Sadong river again, to look after our enemy in that direction. Among the plunder in the Seriff’s boat was found a long execution kris, and many swords ; the latter are always carried by natives, but he could have had only one design in bringing the former weapon, which had been an heir-loom for generations, with a much-worn blade, and gold-encased sheath.* On proceeding up the river, we soon gained intelligence that Bandar Kassim and his rebellious clique had decamped over the borders. After two days we arrived off Gadong, and in an hour I saw the population in Bandar Kassim’s house. Then I told them they had all been imposed on by a man, passing himself off as a Bornean Rajah ; that I did not blame the lower class people, nor even their head, for being deceived, as I was aware he did not even know the Malayan customs or usages ; but as he had thought proper to challenge the Sarawak Government, and * The weapon was valued at more than 20/. It was taken to the Great Exhibition, and lost there, as well as some other very valuable arms. 14 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. give out tliat lie intended to live and die under Brunei rule, I now confiscated the whole of his property, and liberated all his slaves. I then sent a party, or rather recommended a party, to pursue then late chief and bring him back, or order him to return and deliver himself up to the mercy of the Government, otherwise they would probably have the Saribus and Sakarang Dyaks following on his track, when others would suffer for his sins. It is really astonishing how these poor ignorant creatures could have entertained an idea of opposing the Sarawak Government. Not many years previously they had suffered from the frequent incur- sions of head-hunting Dyaks, who were now only restrained by the Government. This head man had duped some of the population into bringing wood for the purpose of building a fort, which he had intended erecting at the mouth of a small creek. A parcel of greater idiots and lunatics could not be found. I put the question to them in public, whether they wished to follow the Government, and told them I should be glad to listen to any complaints or grievances they had to bring forward. They responded earnestly and with the best professions. I pitied them from my heart, though these ignorant fellows are gene- rally the most pig-headed and conceited, and nothing but rubbing- their noses on the ground will bring them O © O LEAYE GADONG. 15 to subjection. After being here twenty-four hours, a boat of Lingga Dyak chiefs came for the purpose of ascertaining for themselves what was the real upshot of so many reports. They told me they had prevented their followers moving, and came without even a single Malay to meet me. “ If w r e are really wanted,” they said, “ for active service, we can at once go back for our war-boats and people.” I gave them the whole account of what had happened, and they again re- turned. Their hearts were as true as steel. After another public meeting with the population to bid farewell, and to give good advice, and after leaving directions that Bandar Kassim should proceed to Sarawak, on his return to this river, our force started away. As we w r ere passing the houses, I saw more than one person appear with lighted brands, which they waved in the air, and then threw away ; this was to frighten away the evil spirit raised by us on their land ; or to extinguish any noxious influence caused by our presence. I dispatched a letter to Pangeran Tumonggong of Brunei, telling him of the many reports spread in his name, and complained of the emissary that had been sent along the coast, and hoped that he would not appear within the Sarawak territory, or he would be apprehended. My letter was friendly in purport. 16 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. although I was well aware these seditious "proceedings were being pushed and countenanced by the Brunei authorities, who were as false and polite as any Eastern diplomatists could be. On my way to Batang Lupar, I found the Seriff Massahore had passed on towards the Rejang, had cut down two men in the jungles, and taken their boats. And now there was still more diffi- culty in store for us. The same afternoon I arrived at Lingga. The inhabitants had heard of the Seriff Massahore having been fired into, and within a few hours of their getting the news this event had the effect of bringing all their secrets to light. My head man, Sipi, who had charge of the fort, was called up to the Malay village, and there presented with two letters, written by the impostor in the name of the Brunei Rajah, saying, that they were to be prepared to rise at a certain time, to kill all the infidels and white men, and the country was to revert to its original rulers. Sipi told me he had gained information of these letters two days before, from a slave-woman who had been cooking in the house when a conference was being held, and the inmates declared that any one taking the information abroad should have their lips chopped off. The people were now paralysed with fear of the consequences of having harboured these letters. To HARANGUE THE PEOPLE. 17 ease tlieir minds I lost no time in seeing tlie whole population in public, and assured them that I had no intention of taking steps to punish their misconduct. I had known them long, and they should have known better : I begged them to be more careful in future. I was subsequently told my address made an im- pression on them, and the lower orders, who were ignorant of the whole proceeding, loudly upbraided them chiefs when they left me. Only one man spoke ; he was an old friend of mine, and he blustered out in a great rage to the assemblage, “You are all a parcel of babies, only fit to crawl instead of standing upright.” On arriving at Sakarang I felt that this was a real haven ( of peace, and although there might be some badly disposed towards me, my friend Abang Aing was always true as steel ; he brought me two letters unopened, and said they had reached him some days previously, and guessing they contained no good news, he did not open them, or allow them to pass from his keeping. One of these epistles was addressed to Seriff Mullah, written in very strong language, and containing the same intentions as had been expressed in the others. This Seriff was related to Seriff Massahore, and felt the disgrace acutely. He had on a previous occasion given out that Seriffs were capable of bringing about TO L. n. c IS TEN TEAKS IN SARAWAK. superhuman 'wonders, and no one could oppose them. Sakarang, as I said before, was peaceful, but only with reference to myself personally, for now there was a force of new Dyak boats just launched in Saribus, which had been prepared by those fellows, who had received certain ambiguous messages to sound their feelings in regard to the Government. They truly prognosticated that it would not be long before a signal would be made for their services, where, or against whom, they little cared. News reached us that Bandar Kassim had delivered himself up to the mercy of the Sarawak Government, and had proceeded there with the whole of his family. Some old Dyaks were sitting with me when the news was brought, and they observed, “ Ah ! then they could not remain long away from then.' fathers and mothers,” meaning the Government ; and the cowardly agent who had been sent by the Brunei Government for the purpose of oppressing the people, on hearing that the Serifi' had been fired at, declared the heavens would collapse next. In extreme fear he made for Brunei as fast as possible in a small boat, leaving his large one uncared-for on the coast. Before proceeding any further with the thread of this narrative, I will give an account of the end of the impostor, or false Tumonggong, at least so far as we THE IMPOSTOR'S CONFESSION. 19 know anything about him up to this time. As before related, he was apprehended by the Dutch and taken to Batavia, and the clever rascal there first made known his real name, saying, he was no more than a Dyak by birth, and slave of Seriff Massahore, but had been pushed on by people of rank to assume the dignity of a Brunei Rajah. The scheme, as disclosed by him, was as follows : — He was to proceed to Saclong, and issue letters right and left to prepare the population for the coming event ; those well disposed to their cause were to hoist small white flags on to the roofs of their houses, and not to be frightened at the commotion which would be sure to ensue. The man’s name was Tunjang ; he was sent to feel the pulse of the people, and be prepared near the border, at the head of the Sadong, either to lead a following down the river on Sarawak, or, in case of adverse events arising, to make away over to the Dutch country beyond our jurisdic- tion. At this juncture, the Seriff Massahore was to make his appearance in Sarawak from seaward, and there join the many parties whose minds had been prepared by the previous letters; and on this the plot was to commence, to murder all the Europeans, and then take possession of the country. The Dutch delivered up Tunjang, and while he was confined in prison in Sarawak he confessed to having been guided 20 TEX YEAES IX SARA WAX. by the Seriff Massaliore in the whole business, who had held a secret conference at Sarikei, where the pre- liminaries were arranged ; and any person agreeing to take my head was to receive a pension of three hundred reals per month for life. One young and troublesome Abang was selected for the purpose, but he prudently declined. I collected many more letters which now everybody brought in — the rascals ! Shortly before all this, we received intelligence that a massacre had taken place in the Netherlands district, to the south of the island, in Banger Masin, when several Europeans had been assassinated. Subsequent discoveries have convinced us, that there was evidently a unity of action between that country and Sarawak, with the object of disposing of all the white men. The Dyaks were anxious to be off, and the chiefs repeatedly came to me to urge a speedy pursuit of the Seriff Massaliore ; they very reasonably conjectured that ere many days had elapsed he would fortify himself inland, and gather a large following around him, and in such a position we should have much trouble in making an attack. After weigh- ing the pros and cons of the affair, I determined on prosecuting active measures, and, following the advice of these Dyaks, to strike boldly at the most vital part of the man’s power. So an expedition was at once CONFLAGRATIONS. 21 collected about me ; the large and fully manned boats made a fine show, and the feeling of power was very pleasing, although I found the late events had caused a peculiar wildness among the Dyaks, so much so, that I had great difficulty in keeping them in any order. Our flying force of 150 large boats dashed on like a herd of wild cattle, and on reaching Sarikei it was found to be deserted. I did my utmost to prevent fire, but to no purpose, as before many minutes had passed smoke appeared, and soon the whole place was in a blaze. Many of the buildings were new, and the Seriff Massahore’s house, towering above all the others, was soon demolished. This was the finest conflagration I think I ever witnessed, but it was only for a short time, as within an hour the wood was smouldering. Some of the boats presented a very beautiful appear- ance, as the light breeze blew the sparks about, show- ing their skeletons. I was anxious about our fort in Kanowit, where there was a supply of arms and ammunition, and I pushed on to cut off all communi- cation between the enemy and this point, which, if held, would have been a nucleus for badly disposed Dyaks ; and the Kayans, who are related to Seriff Massahore, would have become his active supporters. My object was to drive him clear out of our territories, as we had failed in laying hold of him. While pro- 22 TEX YE AES IN SARAWAK. ceeding, we learnt that the Serif? was at Emu, a village which was also under his power, although it was upon the borders of the Sultan of Brunei’s territory. This place was the centre of his private myrmidons, where he conld intrigue at his pleasure, being beyond our control. Finding Kano wit safe in the keeping of the people there, those who were partizans of Serif? Massahore having fled to Eo;an, I now pushed on for the latter place with our force, as his presence at Egan, I was well aware, would endanger the lives of all our friends on the Rejang river, as well as the security of the country on the frontier. _ While going towards Egan I collected the population and gave them in- formation of my intentions. They seemed exceedingly anxious, and declared that there were one hundred guns always mounted, and many others in their high houses. My companion, Seriff Moksein, inquired whe- ther the sides of the pinnace were a sufficient protec- tion from shot. T told him we were only encased in 1 Minch planks, but we would do our best, and he could trust to the Almighty and the omnipotency of his Prophet Mahomet, to whom he afterwards offered a very fervent prayer, and then seemed somewhat re- lieved in his mind. The Malay boats hung back, so we drifted past them, and surrounded by the Dyaks, we advanced ; but not till next morning did we reach MORE CONFLAGRATIONS. —KANO' WIT. 23 the town, finding it also deserted ; and fire soon levelled the whole place, the SerifF Massahore’s house again falling a prey to the flames. Many goods and guns were picked up around. The latter belonged to our arch enemy, and had been heirlooms in his family for gene- rations. After this was done I returned up the Rejang river and again pushed for Kanowit, which is always an important point in consequence of the numerous surrounding Dyaks, upon whose good and friendly intentions towards us I have ever considered the safety of Sarawak to depend ; and we should have had to strike the flag lono- ere this had it not been for their support. On my arrival at Kanowit with the leading Malay chiefs, the Dyaks flocked around, and begged to have a responsible person placed in charge of the fort, as they feared the bad influence of the emissaries sent by the SerifF for the purpose of misleading their people. Amid a concourse of some hundreds from among the different Dyak tribes, in a close and not over pleasant atmosphere, I listened to all their different statements, and allowed every man to talk as he felt inclined. There was no mistake as to the feeling in their hearts, even among all the wild converse and clamour raised between one and the other. At lenoflli I determined to leave Abano; Ali in O O 24 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. charge, and begged the chiefs, one and all, to do their best to assist him. We looked to the arms, and took aboard the big guns, which were without carriages, these having been burnt after the murder of Messrs. Fox and Steele. An old Bakatan sat opposite me who had the most striking eyes I ever beheld, darting fire from the small circular orbs which seemed to pierce one. The man altogether, notwithstanding this pecu- liarity, had an amiable appearance, and was tatooed from head to foot. Some of these Bakatans arc very fine, handsome fellows, with far better features than most other tribes in these localities. I was glad to be off again, and felt pleased at having met so many people who showed some degree of attachment and good faith towards the Government ; but yet I knew very well it would not stand long unless we supported them strongly. It took two days before we reached the mouth of the Kejang; we there found that a flotilla of boats had arrived from Sarawak. They seemed surprised at the work we had executed in so short a time, and were somewhat disappointed in being ordered back. Old Pangeran Matliusein was the first to come (as he said) to my assistance. The natives about the coast in- formed me they intended to fortify themselves, fearing attacks from the Seriff Massahore and the Brunei A CONFERENCE. — CRUISING. people. I was much pleased to receive a letter from an old friend who had lately arrived in Sarawak, com- plimenting me on the manner in which the many difficulties had been met, and the enemy’s designs thwarted, so as to prevent the late deep intrigues commer to a climax. I now again returned to Sara- wak, where my presence was required, but felt that the coast was in so unsettled a state as to need a thorough re-patching. Knocking down is easier than building up, particularly among a people who, when once shaken, take so long to recover confidence. We had just arrived at Santubong from Lundu and Satang, in company with Alderson in his yacht, after having had a very enjoyable cruise in this bay-like basin of blue water, bedotted with pretty islands, and surrounded by magnificent mountains, off which whirl the most sudden squalls, tearing ropes and sails, if not reduced in time. But in fine weather the land and sea breezes are generally to be relied on, the former blowing strongest between the hours of 3 and 8 a.m., and the latter between mid-day and 5 p.m. We had been at anchor an hour when smoke was descried at sea, and the report of a gun was heard. The last of the ebb tide was running, and the sea breeze fast dying away, as it drew near sunset ; but we pulled up anchor and stood out until the tide made too strong 26 TEX YEARS IN SARAWAK. for us to progress any further, when we brought up for the night. Before dawn we again weighed, and as daylight opened we were close to two men-of-war steamers, in one of which Mr. Brooke Brooke was aboard. The vessels had called for the purpose of giving him a passage to Sarawak. The smaller one took us in tow, and we returned. Mr. Brooke Brooke was received in Sarawak under salutes and other honours, and resumed his duties as head of the Govern- ment, and I quietly dropped into the background. A dinner was given to the officers of the men-of-war, and the vessels started again the day after for China. The delight of being relieved was excessive, as Sara- wak business was onerous and irksome, especially when combined with the more active work on the coast, and this I could now execute to my satisfaction. I lived aboard the “Jolly Bachelor'"’ gun-boat at Santubong, and took occasional trips around the islands in the bay, as well as superintended the completion of a new vessel. I felt myself far from being strong, and the season was unhealthy. There was no greater delight than the delicious bathe, at the foot of the Santubong mountain, with its bold peak peeping through the early morning haze on us small creatures, as we disported ourselves in its cool, refreshing, down- ward flowing stream. O TRIP TO MUKAH. 27 Sketches would give but an imperfect idea of the reality. The stream trickled off the mountain, passing into a pebbly-banked and bedded basin, which had an outlet by a circuitous route into the sea. Beyond was the sandy beach fringed by a feathery-leaved fir, which is only found in such places, and is abundant in this large bay. The mournful sounds occasioned by the foliage in the lightest airs has often reminded me of the more rugged firs on the steep hills in the south of Spain. Our new vessel progressed, and we were waiting for her to start on a trip to Mukah, from which place reports were arriving that fortifications had been pre- pared for our benefit, and the inhabitants evidently intended making a determined resistance to any inter- ference from Sarawak. The season already was well advanced, so we were anxious to open the trade, or Sarawak and the whole coast would suffer, and the extortionate practices of the Bornean Rajahs would, by oppressive measures, oblige the poorer classes to labour for the purpose of satisfying their rapacious demands. At length, by dint of digging and hauling, the Sara- wak man-of-war, of 50 tons burthen, was launched, and prepared by an European crew of twelve men, raised to increase our force in these troublesome times. 23 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. and man this vessel. They looked on her as a bum- boat, and them stout heavy bodies formed a striking contrast to the slight figures of our native crews. Most of these men had run from vessels in Singapore, and showed by then appearance that rough times had been their lot. But I liked the look of most of them, though I thought from the commencement that our laissez-ciller system of discipline would not be suffi- cient to keep them regularly at such work. Sub- sequently they told me that times were too easy, there not being sufficient work to drive ennui from their minds ; and although they never committed them- selves by mutinous conduct or disrespect, yet it was more in consequence of having no opportunity than for lack of will. However, there were good men among them, and the others left of their own accord after the Mukah expedition. I took charge of the new' vessel “ Venus,” and found myself so accustomed to use native terms, that mistakes often took place in address- ing these Europeans. Two long six-pounder guns were fitted, and other necessary fittings were furnished. When finished, with the Sarawak colours flying, she looked a very decent craft. In the early part of June we weighed with a small flotilla, consisting of two other gun-boats besides ourselves, and under the direction of Mr. Brooke Brooke started for Mukah. CHAT WITH A MISSIONARY. 29 I bade adieu to my friend Alderson, who was about to retinal to England ; be bad been my companion and colleague in tbe past year of alternate ups and downs, and much will be be missed by myself and others in our small circle. He leaves a vacancy not easily filled up. We dropped down tbe river, and before we bad got balf way to tbe mouth, a missionary came aboard, whom we were all glad to welcome ; be remained with us while we anchored at tbe entrance. At an early hour we retired to rest, and while my eyes were sleepless, and imagination was busily roaming into tbe future, I beard the missionary gentleman express a languishing desire for a glass of water ; rousing ourselves, we enjoyed together a dehcious cigar, on this charming evening, with tbe bright moon shining on us. While smoking, be expressed bis opinion that my life for tbe last six years bad been no better than a dog’s ; it was bis own way of complimenting me for the service which bad fallen to my lot in this Government, and the consequent irregular life which circumstances obliged me to lead. We touched upon matters relating to missionary work, and lastly on making native marriages. He remarked, “I have no objection to native females, and beheve I could live happily with them, but yet I do not think it is desirable for a white man, who is so 30 TEX YEARS IX SARAWAK superior in intellect and understanding, to tie himself to one of a dark skin 'with strange customs, obliging liim, to a certain extent, to lower liimself to her status.” I was informed some years ago it was the desire of one of the missionary leaders, that the clergy should form native alliances among the tribes with whom they have to labour and reside ; but this idea has never been realised, and on one occasion, when the advisability of the measure was advanced by a missionary lady, a gentleman who was somewhat adverse to the pro- ceeding, considering it to be heterodox, asked her, how she should like to be married to a Dyak gentleman \ The lady was surprised, and merely exclaimed “ Oh dear ! ” and immediately the subject was dropped. Mr. bade us adieu early the next morning ; he shortly afterwards left Sarawak, and it was greatly to be deplored, as no one previous to his arrival had gained any influence with the Dyaks among whom he lived. He had no sooner learnt their tongue and customs than he had thus to leave. We sailed for Lingga, as I wished some of my old friends and supporters to accompany me. At Sakarang we foimd the Dyaks very desirous of following in force, but they were prevented, as their presence would only add fuel to the fire, and we were yet in hopes of concluding friendly relations without resorting RECEPTION AT MUKAH. 31 to hostile measures. My friend Abang Aing joined us, and we again proceeded. We called at Rejang, off which we anchored one day, communicating with the popula- tion for the purpose of preparing them to follow us in large boats, armed and provisioned, to Mukah. Then we again sailed, and in two days were off Mukah, where we came-to about two miles from the entrance. The fisliing-boats of different villages, on seeing our vessels, rushed into the mouth of the river, and ere long we saw suspicious-looking parties prying about in different directions. A shallow liar of hard sand lay betwixt us and the entrance, and in the deepest, and only navigable channel, the inhabitants had driven hard spiked stakes. ' Our Commander-in- Chief communicated with Pangeran Nipah, who sent an evasive reply, and it was soon evident that trouble was in store for us. The enemy refused to hold any conference, and on one of our boats advancing towards the mouth for the purpose of sounding the depth of water, a gun was fired at them. We plainly perceived the enemy were preparing in earnest for opposition. Temporary stockades were being erected at the entrance, and many hundreds of people were collecting heaps of wood in various places on the shore ; these were "to be burnt, and their intention was to raise a strong breeze to drive us from our anchors 32 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. and drift us on the coast. Their fires blazed beauti- » fully at night, and before them one could imagine the eagerness of the people, who doubtless uttered the most fervent incantations to their Almighty Being, to induce him to direct a hurricane to sink our vessels — poor superstitious people, who considered the fires had some extraordinary and mysterious means of pro- pitiating supernatural beings. Their idea of the effect was nevertheless correct, that excess of heat would produce a vacuum, and cause an extra current of air. However, their fires were not sufficient ; the expected effect did not follow, and the Almighty did not favour then' cause. The “ Jolly Bachelor ” was despatched to order up our Sarawak boats, which were anchored at the mouth of the Bruit river, distant 20 miles ; they awaited direc- tions to proceed to Mukah for cargoes, from which they had been barred by the Seriff Massahore’s people, who were now the dominant party in that place. They had a hold of the country, and by then lawless proceedings could force the poor weak inhabitants to assist them at their own will and pleasure. The “ J oily ” fell in with some large Dyak boats which were prowling about in search for heads ; she fired a few long shots at them, but they pulled away into shoal water, and beyond her reach. In the evening the “Jolly” returned to us, and POLICY. 33 the trading boats followed next morning, mustering a fleet of fifteen vessels, the crews of which were more eager for cargoes of -sago than for exposure to danger. We were now all anchored together, and pulling boats were joining us daily; but our force, although con- sisting of many men, was not one prepared for warlike pursuits. We had received an announcement of a' large party among the enemy being in favour of at once making peaceful overtures ; and even the head- man’s brother, Pangeran Lada, advised the opening of their river, and admission of our boats to trade ; but the head man himself, named Pangeran Nipah, was firm in the grasp of the Seriff Massahore’s mother and sister, who were hostile to any approach to friendly relations, knowing too well that it was impossible they could be favourably received. Their diplomacy (too immoral to relate) was effective with the chief of this part of the country, who, though not a bad man himself, was a very weak one, and easily misguided by such a strong- minded woman as the Seriff’s mother, who had been the cause and secret instigator of the murders of Messrs. Fox and Steele. She was an elderly Siren, by whom I had the pleasure on one occasion of being stared at for more than an hour, as if she would have eaten me without salt ; it was intended on my part as a friendly call, but I was told subsequently, that it was VOL. IT. D 34 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. near being my last visit to anyone on earth. Fortunate slips take place on these occasions. Many of our people had relatives among the enemy, some even had wives living in Mukah. A council of war was held on board the “ Venus ” in the evening, at which all the chiefs and Europeans were present. It was decided that an advance should be made next morning for the entrance to the Mukah river. A landing party was appointed to cut off the narrow point which extends to the mouth. By landing there and making a demonstration, the enemy would give up their lower stockade, and the pinnaces might then have free ingress over the bar and through the narrow channel. This small-arm party was to consist of those who were not immediately employed in the gunboats. I was somewhat disappointed to find that my naval calling attached me to the floating force, as land expedi- tions were much more after my choice at all times. A sailor professionally, but a soldier in action. Terra firma is a fine place for attack and defence — naval cat- like work requires the greater activity and dexterity, but it is confined and perplexing. I speak more from feeling than experience, as I have never been present in a naval action, except in boats at the attack on Maludu, on the northern coast of Borneo, when a mid- shipman in Sir Thomas Cochrane’s squadron ; then my NAVAL WARFARE. 35 duty was to sit quietly in the stern seats of a large pinnace, which lay with her bows against a boom ; this took fifty minutes to cut through, during which time the enemy were practising very correct fire on us, and had decapitated many with chain shot, bolts, and other antediluvian missiles. My poor messmate and greatest friend, Gibbard, while engaged in cutting the boom, was, with the second shot fired, mortally wounded. I mention this, as being a specimen of naval warfare, in contradistinction to military, which gives one a chance of clambering up barricades, steep and dange- rous, . to be shot off gloriously as the heroes of the Redan were, instead of being potted like a frog in a cold-blooded fashion. However, in my case here, it was a matter of necessity to remain in charge of the gunboats. Morning came, and we were on the alert before the sun had given any signs of approaching the horizon, and within a few minutes we were gliding along with a light though foul breeze, steering to the nearest point for crossing the bar ; then we again came to anchor. Our first work was to draw the spikes, which were soon shaken with bowline knots let down to their base. We opened a passage wide enough for our entry, and with one boat in tow we advanced towards the mouth. The sea was as calm as a pond, and the morning bright, without a cloud. We had crossed over with only six 36 TEN YEAES IX SAEaWAK inches under our keel, and a stake had dragged along under our bottom without doing injury even to the copper. So we passed on, but the land party, although in their boats, showed no inclination to land, and kept in a row on our off sides, thereby finding shelter in case the enemy opened fire. One boat, commanded by a gallant native, Panglima Leman, was ahead of us, and drawing towards the enemy’s stockade, at which we opened fire directly we were within range. The enemy soon abandoned this position, and made off up the river as fast as boats would carry them, and if our small-arm party had been at their appointed station, they would have intercepted their return. We then entered the river, and anchored about half way between the mouth and the enemy’s fortifications, to await further orders, and become better acquainted with the position of what forts and obstacles they might have thrown in our way ; to allow time also for the remainder of our flotilla to join us. We inspected the enemy’s fortifications in the afternoon, and found they were holding a high and formidable-looking stockaded house of two stories, the lower having port-holes for large guns, and the upper pierced with small apertures for the firing of Lelas. The position was well chosen, and had thorough command of a long reach in the river. A few yards ENEMY’S POSITION. 37 below tlie forts were two large booms fastened across the river, with no apparent passage for boats to pass through. Many natives were walking around the house ; by the colour of their umbrellas, some were men of rank. These fellows had even gone to the trouble of attempt- ing to turn the course of the river, by digging a deep trench through a sandy spit, and the result of their labour was close to where we stood ; it would have been a difficult operation for even experienced cn- gineeers, and it was a downright impossibility for natives, to execute such an undertaking. If the soil had been stiff clay, they might, with comparative ease, have effected the change of channel ; but with loose and shifting sand the night undid the work of the day. A landing party was despatched in the morning to make further inquiry and to reconnoitre the enemy’s position, and a temporary enclosure was then thrown up by our party, beyond the range of the enemy’s guns, to form a basis for active operations, from which nearer stockades could be fed and watched. We col- lected wood in the evening, and under cover of darkness sent it in small sampans up the river within range of the enemy. This was landed on the bank, near to which a stockade was to be thrown up in the CS TEX TEAKS IX SARAWAK. morning. The enemy were keeping strict watch between their booms, hailing and abusing us in no 7 O O pleasant strains, and I recognised some voices of men who had been fortmen with me in Sakarang not long c o ago, and now, without rhyme or reason, so far as I know, had taken part against me. They continued to yell all night, and I thought more than once they would have found out where our wood was landed, in which case it would have been thrown into the river, and our work have been to no purpose. On the morning after this our commander-in-chief took command of a land force, and I was left in charge of the gunboats. The party for land operations con- sisted of two hundred men ; but many were not to be relied on. They started early, and before many hours had passed, we saw some of them advance to the banks of the river, about 300 yards from the enemy’s forts. The latter immediately opened a desultory fire on them, and shot were fired also from many of their houses. Under this cannonade our force worked, and soon had an earthwork around them. The enemy’s firing fortunately did little damage, although their direction was true enough, and nearly the first shot fired entered a prog basket in charge of boy servants, and smashed a bottle of gin. A few only were wounded, and the escape from further casualties was FIRING.— STOCKADED PINNACE. 39 surprising. Towards the afternoon I received a letter from sliore which gave me some anxiety about their position, and I urged that no further advance might be made, and requested permission to arrange a stockaded defence around the “ Venus,” so as to enable us to pass the enemy’s fortifications, and get into the interior of the country. This step was approved of ; so we at once commenced to go aboard, the natives bringing wood in boat loads, and John Channon superintending the work, which he managed famously, though it made our vessel look like a hay-stack, and the extra weight brought her down two feet and more in the water. Large beams were placed across the deck, and the stockade of wood, about two feet in thickness, was hung on the ends between uprights, covering the vessel’s side to the water’s edge, and about five feet high above the bulwarks ; this extended all round both head and stern. We worked hard for two days, and by this com- pleted the covering. In the evening I visited the camp ashore, which looked very picturesque by moon- light, and more like a Bedouin group on the desert than anything else. The natives had dug graves about two feet deep, in which they lay after duty ; they were* thus protected from the enemy’s shot. Before leaving, I arranged quietly with Pangeran 40 TEX YEARS IN SARAWAK. Mathusein to make an attempt to cut away tlic fasten- ings of the enemy’s booms off them forts. The moon was bright, but by creeping along in small boats by the banks, we might do it unobserved. The Pangeran shrugged his shoulders, and said, “ choba” — try ; so we started in one small sampan, as stealthily as thieves at night. The enemy were keeping watch inside their defences, but did not dare venture out, as they would have been under fire of our guns. AYe halted in a small nook, among prickly leaves, close opposite the enemy’s fort, and Pangeran Alathusein and one Nako- dah offered to swim the remainder of the way ; they doffed clothes, and proceeded with only their mouths out of water. These two men, with drawn parangs, did not make a sound while [feeling their way to the fastenings, which were of rattans wound round and round to the size of a large hawser cable ; they set to work to cut under water without any noise, during which I was in a silent state of anxiety, as any moment might have brought a volley on our heads. In an hour they were severed. Towards the latter part of the time the enemy were on the alert, and one boom moved slightly with the tide, when a few harm- less shots ensued, which we heard pass over our heads among the leaves. At length the two men returned, and the enemy cried out, “ our booms are adrift,” and DRIFTING BOOMS. 41 forthwith banged away, but never caught sight of us. Mathusein was so exhausted that I had to assist him into the boat, and at first I thought he was wounded. We then stole quietly away, well satisfied with what had been done, as now the passage was clear for our vessel to pass up. On our way back we again called at the camp to report proceedings ; the people arose, alarmed at our sudden appearance, and seized their muskets, jumping out of their graves, and creating a bedlamite commotion of yelling, each trying to drown his neigh- bom’s voice. I felt as if my party might be fired on at any moment by this excited mob, so we crouched under the bank until quiet was again restored. Our doctor met with a narrow escape this evening. In returning to the camp at sunset, the enemy fired a Lela, the ball from which ricocheted into his boat, striking the butt of his rifle while lying across his legs, making a deep indentation in it ; this fortunately saved his thigh-bone, which would otherwise have been fractured. His boat’s crew jumped overboard, and drew the boat along the muddy bank, keeping themselves immersed in water on the off-side. The next morning I gave out that our vessel was to pro- ceed up the river at night, alid during the day we were briskly engaged in making preparations, with anchors, chains, and oars in their proper places ; port- 42 TEX YEARS IX SARAWAK. holes were covered over with bedding, to be triced up or lowered as required. Pangeran Mathusein was the only native who pre- pared his boat to accompany us, and many said they would go, but when the time came were not forth- coming. Firing had been going on all day between our camp and the enemy ; but no perceptible change had taken place in affairs. Messrs. Watson and John Ohannon accompanied me, besides the European crew of nine men. I retired to rest after dinner, and left orders that we should weigh anchor at 11.30 p.m., as the tide would then serve, and be at the proper height. I awoke at the time appointed, and found friend Watson still smoking his pipe, as he seldom slept before the dreaiy hours were half over. My body was refreshed by sleep, and prepared to act. A drizzling; rain was falling, and the evening was thick and foggy. We triced up the awnings, and up anchor, when the tide swept us on so swiftly, that I soon found it would be hopeless trying to turn our vessel, so we drifted stern first, with two oars out on each side to assist in steering. Our guns were loaded and ready, and not a voice was to be heard as we silently and swiftly drifted along. I stood on the top of the stockade to pilot the vessel. We were soon off the camp, from which I was hailed to look out, as the OUR NIGHT ASCENT. 43 enemy would fire into us directly, and the camp would return it. I replied, “ all right,” and then stepped on board to be under cover. Just as I was doing so, a shot was fired from the bank close abreast of us ; the evening was so hazy that I could not discern whether they were friends or enemies. I hailed to ask the question ; of course no reply was given. Another five minutes, and we were fairly in for the fray. I heard the enemy call, “ Look out, the pinnace is drifting up ; ” and they blazed on us volley after volley, as we lay within five or six yards of their fortifications. Watson watched to fire as the enemy opened their ports ; but the haze was far too dense to discern anything at all ; but I soon found out we were not progressing, and had fouled something. We swung to and fro, at times close under the enemy’s guns, and then away into the centre of the stream. We let go our anchor and hauled it up again, but all to no purpose, and what had fouled us we were at a loss to know. We then laid out a hedge and hove it home, without moving clear, and every now and then we blazed a 6-pounder of grape into the enemy, while they peppered us incessantly. . The position was far from pleasant, with guns banging all around, and the fog and smoke so dense as to preclude a possibility of making out our unaccountable position. At length I 44 TENYEAES IN SARAWAK. found that a large rattan made fast to one of the booms which had been cut adrift, was holding us. This rattan was across the river, and the enemy had evidently the intention of re-arranging their booms that night. I ordered a plucky young native to jump down and cut it, which he did with two strokes of his sword. This had been holding us here for more than two hours under the enemy’s fire, the most galling of which was from a high house on our upper side. I thought the shot would have laid some of us low. However, directly the rattan was gone, the vessel swung sufficiently to bring our gun to bear on the high building, and after a round of grape we distinctly heard weeping and wailing of women, and no more shots were fired from it. The next morning we heard Pangeran Lada and some of his following had been O O killed. We now drifted up as before, and were soon on the upper side of the town, where we cast anchor within easy range of all their houses. Only one little stockaded place kept up a fire on us, and when anchoring I paid little attention to this, until a shot went within an inch or two of my head, and passed through our awnings. Four hours had elapsed since we started ; three we had been exposed to fire. When we had passed the dangers our men gave three hearty cheers, PROMISCUOUS BLAZING. 45 which were answered by tbe party in the camp. At daylight we found a goodly mess on our decks, shot, pieces of iron, and nails in bucketfuls ; our spars and ropes had been considerably damaged and cut about. The awnings, on which the light had been shining, were riddled with grape and nails ; scarce a square foot escaped uncut, but only two men were wounded, one an Englishman, who came quietly aft and asked to be allowed to plaister up his face. At the time it was done he exclaimed, “ Why, these rascals are filing clay at us.” It turned out to be his own blood. The other wounded man was struck in the leg by a splinter, and was lamed for some time ; but the barricading of wood had most effectually saved us all ; without it, I don’t think one would have lived to tell the story. Only one shot had fairly penetrated, and that had been fired from our own camp. They mistook us for the enemy in the darkness. There were many natives who remained below decks all the while, but these not being paid men, there was no particular occasion for their exposing themselves to unnecessary danger. There were others who, crouch- ing in the dark, fired off their pieces to make a noise ; but when the kedge anchor had to be taken out, a duty entailing exposure to fire, only a few advanced willingly, many refusing to stir, and preferring hiding 46 TEN TEARS IN SARAWAK. away in corners. I called to my friend Abang Aing, and he reluctantly responded, but dare not refuse, so went forward ; but at that moment a charge of grape from a heavy gun was banged into us. This was too much for Aing’s nerves, and he jumped right down the skylight, smashing lamp, glasses, and everything else on the table, which I thought at the time had been done by the enemy’s shot. However, there were few discontented remarks passed by anyone, and the Europeans behaved with much cool courage in this trying position. I thought at one time there would be no alternative but to charge directly into the enemy’s forts, and as our bowsprit sometimes struck their flag-staff, the distance would have been trifling;. An old Nakodali, whom I had brought with me be- cause he knew the river and the inhabitants, bggan to exclaim so vociferously, “ There is no God but one God, and Mahomet is his Prophet !” that I was obliged to use my most persuasive language to quiet him, and afterwards he sat down and repeated his prayers in silence. The Lela* filing was very correct, and I never knew before how useful these weapons may prove in good hands. Pangeran Mathusein’s boat flew past us as we were Brass pieces of ordnance of native manufactur e. FURTHER ASCENT. 47 hanging foul of the rattan, ancl it was beyond his power to afford us any assistance, as he was the only man who would stand upright in his craft ; the rest were pulling under a plank covering. After an hour’s work the deck had been cleared, and then we opened fire upon the enemy’s village, or rather on the head man’s house, which had gams mounted in the roof. The women and children had all been taken up a small stream on which the village is situate. The only return was kept up by the small stockade which troubled us the previous night, and this place must- have been guarded by some very determined fellows. The whole country — if we only had an available force with us — was in our hands. Those who followed, beyond the “Venus’s ” thirty fellows, were not all to be depended on, and to have trusted to them for land work would have been madness. To all appearance the place was deserted, and it provoked one beyond measure not to be able to take the initiative. But patience was better than rashness in leading an un- supported advance. In the course of the afternoon we determined to pull higher up the river, and take up a position to communicate with our force at the mouth. We should also be above the enemy’s fortifications, and enabled to receive and support those who were inclined to favour our cause. There were some houses 48 TEX YEAES IN SARAWAK at Berdaugali, to the landing-place of which we secured our vessel, and established a party ashore to watch, as well as one on board. And now we had quietly to wait for reinforcements from Sarawak. This proved a most tiring life, and nothing around presented any change or beauty. The country was a dead flat, covered with sago palms in all directions, without a hill of any description, high or low, and the inhabi- tants who had joined our cause were some of the most uninteresting people. We were not well supplied with food, and the single fowl daily for dinner was scarce enough to keep four lusty Christians in condition. The party at the mouth were in statu quo like our- selves, and had thrown up fortifications there, having evacuated the camp. Many of our Europeans and natives were continually going to and fro betwixt us and the mouth, and on the third day the enemy pounced out of ambush and cut off three of our friends. The day after this catastrophe we dropped our vessel down about half-a-mile, and through an opening in the jungle fired about forty rounds into Pangeran Nipali’s house, at long range, to inform the inhabitants we still had powder and shot in our possession. After we had remained in this inactive state for more than a month our reinforcements arrived, and were divided between our two positions. So now we MONOTONOUS LIFE. 49 were able at once to prepare for a march overland into the heart of the enemy’s country. A 6-pounder gun was to be carried with us. Upon the day of the attack the force at the mouth had engaged to make a demon- stration on their side to draw the enemy’s whole atten- tion from us. We landed for the march early in the morning, but had many preliminary troubles, as the people who were the only guides were nervous in the extreme, and our force at present was a “ scratch ” one. However, our European force was strong, mus- tering nine. The journey to all intents and purposes was a land one, but we had two boats in company to carry gun and gear, and what was wanting was water to float them. We had the hardest labour in pulling them through every creek and ditch, and often over cpiite dry ground. A ditch had been made several years before, which we now cleared out, and found four or five inches of water in it. I felt delighted to be again on the alert, for our life for the last month had been particularly irksome and weakening. We pursued a circuitous route through sago trees almost the whole way, threading our course along wherever a little water was to be found for partly floating our heavy boats, at the same time keeping well out of sight of the enemy, who were ignorant about our movements. The last haul at the boats, VOL. II. E 50 TEX YE AI1S IX SARAWAK, before they were launched into a stream wbicli led to the town, nearly exhausted all of us. Both white and black worked until ready to drop. The distance which the boats had to be taken over must have been two miles of dry ground, and when we reached this point the sun had sunk ; but by the last peep of day we were able to discern the roofs of the enemy’s houses yet some miles away. We then rested in a stubbly space of open ground ; some fed, others reclined, all rested, and most of the Malays earnestly prayed, and never ceased salaaming until it was quite dark, and the time arrived for our further advance. Our leaders were related to the party on which we should first make a lodgment. We followed within a few yards of them. The ground was very rough, and in many places the stubble had lately been burnt ; and now darkness protected us. Picking our way clear of holes and ditches, into which several of our party tumbled, we made this advance at a rapid pace, without a word being spoken. The glimmer of the enemy’s lights was before us, extending far away right and left. At length Pangeran Mathusein hailed, and shortly afteiwards there was a reply. Taking advantage of these few inmates who were friendly, we pushed on to their dilapidated quarters. We crossed the stream, about three' feet deep, and an indiscriminate firing REINFORCED.— LAND MARCH. 51 commenced. There was no stopping our fellows. Some spears had been thrown at them, which led to this unpleasant blazing in the dusk close about onr heads. However, no serious accident occurred ; only a few of our people received scars. Our gun was still behind, and this made me very anxious, as the hornets’ nest was now becoming disturbed, and up and down this stream for miles reports of guns were multiplying, and the friendly (?) inhabitants of these quarters warned us to look out, as an attack would shortly be made upon us from above and below. At last the gun arrived. The Europeans kept together, and Panspran Mathusein set to work to throw up a covering around with some old wood which was lying about in all directions. The stream guarded us on one side, and a house on the other. In two hours we were getting snug. Fortunately the night was fine and clear. The enemy’s guns were deafening, but only fired to intimidate us and expend their powder. Pangeran Mathusein was indefatigable ; no weight seemed too heavy for his powerful limbs to lift, and although a man of rank, he worked as one of his slaves. At midnight we fitted our 6-pounder brass gun (4-|- cwt), and fired one shot to see it ready. Its boom must have been distinguished by our enemy, who used 52 TEN YEAES IN SAKAWAK. the long Lolas, the report of which is similar to rifle ordnance. We took up our abode under an old boat- shed, and with a few rotten mats made ourselves com- fortable, and many very shortly were snoring. No regular watch was appointed, but some wakeful ones kept a look out. I don't think I slept more than a few minutes at a time. The enemy fired all night, and the quantity of ammunition expended must have been considerable. At daylight we found our lodg- ment of last night was in the centre of the enemy’s habitations ; and we had hit upon the place from which they obtained their drinking water : also upon the road to Oyah, from whence they have of late received pro- visions. I had just sent round to the chiefs to collect and confer respecting our further advance upon the village and stockaded houses, when a letter arrived from our Commander-in-Chief, ordering me to desist from any further hostile proceedings at present, as the Governor of Labuan had arrived in a man of war steamer, and had directed that no more warlike opera- tions should be prosecuted. August, 1860 . — My force was aghast at this intelli- gence, and I cursed this untoward announcement after the labour we had undergone. We, however, promptly obeyed the order received, and the enemy were making a target of our outer works during the day ; their shot SURPRISING INTELLIGENCE. 53 did little harm, beyond irritating our people, who could not understand such a blind policy as advancing so far merely to be shot at. In the afternoon as we reclined, a sound arose of a white man approaching ; this proved to be a gentleman attached to the Governor’s suite, who brought a polite message to say, that no more fighting would be permitted on either side. After a little conversation of the leather and prunella descrip- tion, he proceeded up the river to forbid the inha- bitants to fire on us ; however, the Mukah people did not prove so obediently disposed as the British sub- jects, and declared in our hearing, after the official had departed, that they were prepared to battle against either Sarawak, French, English, or Hollander, and were gentlemen independent of all these nations. After this expression of their feelings, they continued to fire on us rather more violently than before they received the message from the Governor. Later in the afternoon six heavily laden men walked into our Jiabi- tation, and sat down very tired : not until after a little breathing time did they find out we were enemies, and then told us they had come from Oyah, and were stocked with provisions. We relieved them of their heavy bundles, and their arms ; and proceeded to ex- amine many very savoury condiments which had been intended for the aristocracy and ladies of Mukah. The 54 TEN YEAES IN SAEAWAK. hearers sat and watched us. After an hour these poor slaves were sent home, though not before some of our party had recommended that their lives should be taken, in exchange for those we had lost some days ago. Just before dark we descried some dusky forms showing above the burnt stubble, tearing wildly over the open space towards us. The enemy’s firing in- creased, and they dispersed right and left, not knowing the position of our encampment, until some of our people mounted a high pole and waved the flag out ; seeing which, these fellows instantly tore into our open quar- ters. They were thirty Dyaks from Kano wit, all well known to me ; the head man was the well-known and troublesome Lintong, accompanied by Unjup (Balang’s brother). They said they had only arrived the pre- vious day, and had been forbidden to leave their boats, but they came on over our track of yesterday, expect- ing to find employment in this direction. They were as good-looking a set of men, or devils, as one could cast eye on ; their wiry and supple limbs might have been compared to the troop of wild horse that followed Mazeppa in his perilous flight. Their costumes were parti-coloured, of the brightest hues. Their appearance spread activity and gaiety in our camp, which was an extraordinarily dull and damp- looking place, and more fit for frogs as denizens than OUE RETURN. — GALLING INTERFERENCE. 55 human beings ; it was fast becoming exceedingly muddy, and our dresses and burnt skins were all on a par. The Talian stream ran past, dank and turbid from the washings of low lands ; the colour of this best and only drinking water, was like a cattle-yard pool in Devonshire. The natives grow fond of this muddy stuff, which really is not ill-flavoured, and habit, I suppose, makes people prefer it to clear water. Our barracks were spread with odd bits of mats, grass, and leaves, for the different shakedowns. The fol- lowing day I was summoned to the mouth of the river. Leaving at an early hour 1 was in hopes of arriving there by a new path ; on starting from the camp, the enemy opened a very tantalising fire on us, and after being under it, and searching for a path for over an hour, we returned to get into the track which we had used in advancing. I left Watson in charge of the remaining force, and a small party accompanied me. We reached the head quarters shortly after mid-day, and I was present at a discussion before the Governor, an old and infirm man, who most doggedly attempted, by every means in his power, to bring disgrace on our little state. He expressed himself with marked favour towards the Seriff Massahore and his following here, notwithstanding they only the year before had been the murderers of two Englishmen. The Governor held 56 TEX YEAES IX SAEAWAK. interviews in the houses of the natives of Mukah (our enemies), and reports were listened to, even credited, of the demands and deceits of the Sarawak Govern- ment, whose shot would avail them nothing, as they were incapable of wounding the Mukah people : and they even went so far as to show black marks about their persons to some of the Governor’s party, to prove that the shot would take no effect. None but the most blind and prejudiced could have entertained a doubt of the absurdity of these assertions ; but the Governor’s duty appeared to be a preconcerted busi- ness, namely, to disgrace our flag, and to defeat our objects, which were, firstly, to open trade ; secondly, expel Seriff Massahore and his myrmidons, and esta- blish some creditable Government that would enable traders to hold their property and lives in safety. It certainly was not consistent in an official of authority and standing in her Majesty’s sendee, to act the part he did. We were ordered to return ; and, acting in obedience to constituted authority as British subjects, we did so. The Sarawak native force was informed that if they continued to prosecute their warlike proceedings, her Majesty’s steamer’s guns would fire upon them. No resistance was offered by word or deed ; and the Governor was informed that no further discussion should take place, and that the entire BRITISH OFFICIALS. 57 matter would be referred to the British ministers. The day following, our inland force was recalled, and came down under the protection of the British flag. Watson informed me, the Sarawak colours were flying as he drifted past ail the houses, which were crowded with people armed, with insult printed on their counte- nances. Our 6-pounder was lying uppermost in the boat to the view of the multitude ; they had no house that could have withstood it. If this untimely inter- ference had not taken place the country would have been in our hands in three days. Early the same morning I returned to the “ Venus,” and prepared her for going down ; the wooden stockade was thrown off, and her masts and sails put in order. The inhabitants crowded around us, anxiously suing for our protection against the merciless and lawless proceedings of the Seriff Massahore’s people. Many followed in boats with their wives and children. After some hours, we were escorted down by the steamer’s cutter, having the Governor and Captain aboard. As we passed the enemy’s fortifications, in front of which we had lain so long on the memorable night, many hundreds of people were congregated in lazy attitudes, watching us with eager eyes. A strong ebb was run- ning, so we soon reached the mouth, and anchored in company with our flotilla. Mr. Brooke Brooke and 58 TEN YE AES IN SAEaAYAK. all our party of Europeans were aboard, and shortly afterwards the Governor made his appearance, when a conversation ensued, not of a very friendly tenor. He found fault principally with the proceedings of Pan- geran Mathusein, and was startled when told the man in question was sitting opposite to him. A few papers were immediately produced from the Pangeran’s pocket, to justify his acts. The signatures of the Rajahs of Brunei were attached to the documents, and the old Pangeran’s quiet, gentle voice, under as resolute an eye and countenance as could be seen, softened the Governor’s tone towards him ; but gentlemen of such calibre have great difficulty in fathoming the customs of a strange people, and are bigoted in adherence to old-fashioned notions. New places require tolerant men, whose faculties, too, are adapted to acquire the language and tone of mind of a dark race. This is the only way of obtaining an influence over them, or of developing their ideas. The morning after, we spread our wings to the Avinds, and, thrashing against a strong breeze and heaAry sea, bade farewell to the people of Mukah and the steamer, leaAnng them to their se\ r eral cogitations. We had \ r ery rough Aveather, and a seven days’ beat, before Ave entered Rejang, and our food had been reduced to the simplest quality. HoAvever, the fresh STATE OF THE COAST. 59 breeze, though foul, renovated me, as I loved a buoyant vessel dashing the spray about her bow, as much as Avhen I was a young midshipman— alas ! how many years ago ! We carried away the ropes and sails of our new craft, which had not yet been properly fitted out. The population of Rejang were exceedingly alarmed at the present state of the country, and had already determined to remove nearer to Sarawak for protec- tion. The Mukah failures had the effect of drawing our people more closely around us ; and from place after place the people deserted their habitations, to concentrate and shelter themselves from the messen- gers from Mukah and Brunei. Watson returned to his station in Saribus, and Fitz Cruickshank remained with me. The Rejang population, consisting of about 2000 souls, removed to Sibuyau, a small stream at the mouth of Batang Lupar, and there they obtained their requirements, namely, the nipah-palm, in abund- ance, for salt-making, good wood for house and boat- building, and other necessary articles, such as fish, prawns, which they dry in great quantities, and sell or exchange for rice ; the latter is to be obtained very abundantly from the Dyaks. The locality was secure, except from the incursions of Dyak enemies ; and against these marauders they had to fortify them- selves. 60 TEN YEARS IN SARA WAN. Before a week liacl elapsed, it was strange and interesting to see what a change these people had wrought in the appearance of the hitherto deserted region. Sheds were already built, and large clearances made, with families living; under sufficient covering- to keep sun and rain off ; children were seen playing about ; and the sound of voices and labour enlivened the scene. Here I received news from Watson, who had made a successful attack on some Dyaks. They had forti- fied themselves up the river, having taken up this position on receiving intelligence that the Seriff Mas- sahore had been successful at Mukah, and were waiting until his emissaries came to take charge of Saribus, and drive out the white man. Watson had a con- siderable following of his own people of Malays and Dyaks. The place was captured after losing three men ; the enemy, having lost the same number, then decamped to Sad ok. I visited Sarawak after the Bejangs were safely housed, and, while there, some of the Kanowit Dyak chiefs arrived, with an urgent request for a European to be stationed among them ; or, they added, they feared many of their people would be led away by the false reports circulated by the Seriff Massaliore’s agents, who were travelling among the different tribes o 7 o o SERIFF MASSAHOEE’S ENEMIES. 61 for the sole purpose of gaining followers to his cause, and withdrawing their allegiance from Sarawak. The chiefs advanced their suit with so much earnestness and apparent truth, that I resolved to visit Kanowit without delay ; and after a tedious voyage, in using heavy oars against slack tides when the light breezes failed, we reached it on the seventh clay from Sarawak. I still continued to be captain of the craft ; a posi- tion I would willingly have relinquished, had there been any other person to relieve me. We fitted up our decks with a covering, and, as a reception-room, it was continually crowded with Dyaks, who had come from all directions to meet me, as reports had stated that I was killed, and now there was another Tuan Mudah, who was not the old one. I endeavoured to prove that he was the same individual. Some of these reports vexed me exceedingly ; they were arranged most ingeniously, and there was not one outlet in which they did not try to erect the power and authority of Governor * * * * * * and Seriff Massahore (these names were coupled together) over the whole of this country. There was no alternative but to grin and bear it ; but a strong presentiment was in my mind that a tenfold payment would eventually redound to our benefit. Our little flag, before many months, would again fly with renewed prestige. 62 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. After solving the many pros and cons of Kano wit affairs, and obtaining the sincerest pledge from the Dyaks to protect and uphold a European in his posi- tion among them, I resolved to leave Fitz Cruick- shank in charge of this isolated station, having great confidence in his courage and good sense. I felt sure he was not the man to run risks, and would use his best endeavours to establish the name of the Eaj all’s Government among the rebellious flocks under his care. My principal injunction to him was to beware of treachery, as there were prices set upon all our heads, and mine stood highest on the scale. The people turned out to build a fort on an elevated site, com- manding the stream both up and down, which is nearly a mile in breadth ; the length of the reach within view of this position being six miles above and below, encircled by beautiful natural scenery. I never before suffered so acutely as I did some hours at this time. I was ignorant of the real cause, but supposed it to have arisen from some poisonous diet mixed accidentally with my food. We were occasionally in the habit of having a kind of mushroom, or fungus, served up in stews, and that morning we had partaken of some, which many of the crew also ate. The bit of toadstool, which is considered deadly poison by the natives, must have fallen to my lot ; and I suffered BUILDING FORT.— ENEMIES. G3 so severely, that nature could not have borne it many more minutes, had not Lucas* administered a dose of mustard, which answered the purpose of an emetic, and I w r as soon afterwards relieved ; but the impression remained for months, that every mouthful I took had poison mixed with it ; and I never went anywhere without doses of tartar emetic in my pocket. When the Fort was built, Fitz took possession with his followers, and I bade him adieu, promising to come at any moment to his assistance if required. I then returned to Sakarang, and left the “Venus ’’ to return to Sarawak. I was glad to rest in quiet for a short time, but our enemies were numerous up the rivers Sakarang, Saribus, Kaluka, Sarikei and Kanowit, numbering many thousands of families, all of whom relied on the support of Seriff Massahore. These Dyaks were sending out head-hunting parties along the coast, and the trade so important to us for the maintenance of our revenues, was nearly suspended in the Rejang district. The enemy kept clear, however, of the rivers in this direction, as they contained Dyaks friendly to us, and -who were as expert, should it be necessary, in decapitating them, as they were in doing it to others. One of the European crew. 64 TEX TEAES IN SARAWAK. Not many days had expired before I received a letter from the Kaluka Malay chiefs, expressing an urgent desire to remove more under the protection of Sarawak, as they were alarmed at the vicinity of some of the Seriff Massahore’s party, and at the tone they had been using towards them. It was some time before I could find leisure to go, and then only in a small boat, trusting to an extra force being sent from Sarawak. . The Kaluka population came down and towed us up to them village. Watson accompanied me. We took up our quarters ashore, in a tumble- down building, with brilliant curtain decorations around the otherwise dingv walling. The inhabitants were busily employed in preparing boats for carrying their families, goods, and chattels, and had resolved on taking up their abode at Lingga. This village at Kaluka was situated on a low swamp, with many plantations of betel-nut and sago trees around. There were no Dyaks located in these waters, but in former times the head hunters had committed sad havoc among the people, and now their houses were built close together for the purpose of protecting each other. The danger of fire must have been considerable, as the roofs and wallings were of dried leaves. In olden times the population amounted to treble its present number. This place is about one hundred miles distant WAITING FOE THE GUNBOAT. Go from Sarawak, and lies next to Batang Lupar and Saribus on the coast. The inhabitants are an ignorant but industrious people, earning a livelihood by the sale of padi and betel-nuts. The river is small, but navi- gable for our boats ; cattle used to range over these grassy plains some forty years ago, which have been subsequently seized by the Brunei Rajahs, when they came on their pillaging excursions to oppress these simple-minded inhabitants. The two countries they always avoided were the Saribus and Sakarang, holding in wholesome awe the very names of those Dyak marauders. On one occasion some Brunei commis- sioners bound for Kaluka in a large boat, fell in with a Dyak bangkong fully armed and manned. The former sheered off, and the latter immediately gave chase ; on closing, a Pangeran (Prince) stood forth with his High- ness the Sultan’s chap, or commission, in his hand, carefully folded in yellow satin (as the badge of royalty). The Dyak chief replied : “ Nadai nummo utei ber- kenia ” (we don’t understand things of that description) . An encounter ensued, and the Brunei people, in a few minutes, all lost their heads. Nobody could feel com- passion for such rascals, and the pity was, that the head-hunters could not confine themselves specially to attacking such cowardly robbers. We anxiously awaited the gunboat from Sarawak, as our situation YOL. II. P CG TEX YEAES IX SARAWAK. was far from safe, but fortunately a few boats of Saribus Dyaks had followed on our track, and were capable of keeping a good watch. On the fourth morning of our arrival, these Dyaks came to our quarters, and informed us they had seen some suspicious-looking men the evening before, who came to the shed in which they were sleeping. The Dyaks awoke, and placed their swords within con- venient distance. The strangers were respectably dressed, and opened the conversation by expressing a desire to accompany the Tuan Mudah to snare deer. The Dyaks then said, that I was not in the habit of indulging in such pastimes, but perhaps the Tuan Hassan (Mr. Watson) would be inclined. The strangers, however, repeated their wish that I should accompany them, and added, “ there are four of us, and only three of you need be of the party, and depend on it, we shall have rare sport.” They left, and did not again make their appearance, seeing that they were suspected of being workers of mischief, and myrmidons of the Seriff Massahore, who had many followers in a neighbouring river, some of whom were known to be lurking about in the jungles. After this the Dyaks kept eager watch, and would soon have muzzled any more such vagabonds. Heaven knows, our lives might easily have been taken, if any one had really wished for SUSPICIOUS STBAXGEPlS. 67 them ; but it appears the assassin’s knife requires much previous palavering before it can effect its purpose : such cunning plots generally cast their shadows around, and warn one in time to be on guard. At length the gun- boat “Venus" arrived, and in a few days the Kaluka people were in then’ boats, and we proceeded with this flotilla of humanity to Lingga, where they at once set to work to make habitations. The poor fellows deserved pity and assistance, though it cost them little trouble to build a house, but the removal of families, and the relinquishment of gardens or estates was a considerable loss. But naturally they choose anything, rather than endure constant danger to life. They gathered beneath the wing of Sarawak like chickens around an old hen. I found on my return news from Saribus, stating that the Dyaks had again fortified themselves on the same site as before, and more strongly : so after a few preparations a force was collected to brush them out a second time, by marching overland through Saribus ; and a division of the latter, in charge of Mr. "Watson, was to go in boats. A late attack of diarrhoea had so weakened me, that I found my capabilities of walking had vanished, and I only managed to get as far as the Saribus fort. The land party proceeded with my head man, Aing. They marched for three days over steep F 2 68 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. hills, where I could never have gone in my weak condition. I remained crestfallen, and felt worn out and disappointed. Ideas arose in my mind, that it would not he long ere I should be unfitted for jungle employments, and then what could I undertake'? Two days after brought a letter from Watson, saying the place had been attacked, but as yet the enemy were holding out. A 3-pounder gun was mounted, which did little asrainst their stockade. The mo m i n n; after another letter came, saying the Sakarang force had arrived, and had descended the hill in the enemy’s rear, yelling and cheering as they approached. The enemy were deceived for a short time, thinking they were reinforced by the Seriff Massahore’s hordes. Our fellows came down firm 2 ; at them, dashing on until they even seized some of the musket ends through the port-holes of the enemy’s fortification. The upshot was, a few were killed, several wounded, and then our young firebrands retreated to a respectable distance, where they ran up stockades, and surrounded the enemy’s position. In the evening, when darkness had set in, a heavy squall came on, tearing and sweeping every- thing before its strength. The party on duty left their stations for shelter in the boats, from the inclemency of the elements. And in the middle of this sudden gust, a cry arose that the enemy had made off, and THE ENEMY.— A SQUALL. 69 while they were dashing past the gun, fortunately left untouched, my friend Abang Aing, who was alone on guard, had just time to drop down underneath some freshly felled trees, where he lay breathless, while the enemy were flying helter skelter above him. It was too dark to discern any object clearly. A few minutes more, and not a sound or trace of the enemy was left. The moon shone out brightly, and the night was fine and calm. The enemy had taken alarm at being so closely surrounded, and they con- sidered it wise to run before it was too late. Watson returned much disappointed in not having been able to chastise them for the trouble and annoyance they had given. Some Lelas and old guns were found in the stockade. I returned to Sakarang to lie up, and look into that necessary, though uninteresting, part of public affairs — accounts — and other details, which had been unavoidably neglected of late, owing to the unsettled life we had been leading;. For more than three months this year the Malay population had been employed on Government sendee, and yet no complaints were heard, although their fanning and trading employments had been sacrificed to the public and the general safety of the country. Subsequent to our return from Mukah, H.M/s steamer “ Victoria,” commanded by Captain ****** * 3 who 70 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. liad conveyed the Governor of Labuan to Mukah, and had taken such an interest in his proceedings there, made her appearance in Sarawak for the purpose of attempting to re-open the trade on the coast, which had been so materially damaged by the hostility of the Seriff Massahore, and could not be renewed so long as he remained in Mukah, practising the direst tyranny over the industrious and honest portion of the inhabitants. Mr. * * * * *, the manager of the Borneo Company, accompanied by some of the most respect- able of Sarawak Nakodahs, proceeded in the steamer to Mukah, and anchored outside the mouth. The captain of the steamer and others interested pulled to the village in the cutter, and, on reaching the landing- place of the head man, Pangeran Nip ah, the inha- bitants became very disturbed, and several parties were to be seen rushing about with arms, and congre- gating in the vicinity of his house. A Brunei Bajah’s boat was anchored in the river, deeply laden with brass guns, the spoils of oppression, wrung out of our friends at Mukah and the adjacent villages. This Rajah had accompanied the Governor from Labuan, and was now returning with a cargo of the value of several thousands of dollars. The captain and Sarawak party entered Pangeran Nipah’s house, and seated themselves amid several SERIFF MASSAHORE. 71 hundred armed men. The spokesman, Mr. *****, said their visit was a peaceful one, made with the object of restoring trade between Sarawak and Mukah. Pangeran Nipah replied favourably, in a kindly tone. But before many minutes had elapsed, the Seriff Massahore swaggered in, wearing merely a gold spangled cloth around his waist, with the gold hilt of a kris protruding from it, and sat down a short dis- tance off, looking daggers, — such a look as astonished and somewhat alarmed the Europeans present who had placed themselves so heedlessly in this position. Their boat’s crew were at a distance without an arm ready or loaded, and they were surrounded by armed men, only waiting the slightest provocation, or the merest whisper from this murderer, to cut them to pieces. The captain, on seeing the man, observed that he had never met a worse-looking villain in the whole course of his life, though his steamer had been giving him protection only a few months previously. The party returned to the boat, and were greatly relieved when clear of this narrow escape of death, which hovered over them too closely to be pleasant. CHAPTER II. 1861. Lonely soliloquies — Dyak feast — Questions of importance — Mahoin- medan school — A sceptic — Dyak peace-making — Custom — Trip to Undup — Bore — Undup Dyaks — A morning nip — A walk — Lying heaps — Watching for deer — Superstition — Dyak forces — A lad caught napping — His story — Steamer “ Bainbow” — Her value — Visit to Brunei — Annexation of coast — Sago — Forests — Boats and tactics — Expedition to Sarikei — A sight — Dyak boats. I felt my health fast becoming recruited while living here among the people, with whom I always feel happy and comfortable. Late hours and heavy dinners are unknown to me. More joyous than the festivity of towns was it to welcome the bright morn- ing, and receive its inspiration. One afternoon a part}" of Dyak chiefs fetched me to attend a feast at their house, and as I had never yet witnessed this tribe’s proceedings on such an occasion, I joined their party. On entering the house some of the elders came and dragged me to a nice clean mat placed in the midst of many hundreds, who were all dressed in their best, with fine cloths DYAK FEAST. 73 hanging in festoons over our heads. Ten men were O O howhng and turning round and round in a circle, with big sticks, which they struck to the ground, keeping- time to then steps and the music. There were viands in large dishes placed before groups — rice, fowls, eggs ; bananas, all of a dingy hue, and exceedingly disagree- able to the eye, were on small plates, and many had evidently already partaken largely of them. The masters of the ceremony were busy marching about assisting everybody to the refreshments, and one brought a basin of what looked like gruel to me, and dipped me out a little in a small cup. He said it was his very best brew, and as it did not look so nasty I was persuaded to sip it. The taste was not dis- agreeable, being more like spruce beer than any other mixture. Some eatables and dr in kables were carefully assorted and placed on the top of the house to feed the spirits. The women were in full dress, consisting of a petticoat and brass rings strung on rattans, then fastened round the body, reaching from below the waist up to the breast. There must have been many hundreds of these trumpery brass ornaments attached to each female, besides which most had fine shawls of different patterns arranged Scotch plaid fashion. Flowers were in their hair, and shell bracelets on their arms, but beauty was scarce, and I have seldom seen 74 TEX YEARS IN SARAWAK. less, even among the Dyaks. The men, after a time, were stupidly drunk, or disgustingly stuffed, and the scene became a chaotic confusion of human beings, reeling about in a state of beastly insensibility. But however that may have been, it is a custom, and is strictly a thanksgiving to their omniscient Being after having received a bountiful harvest. The winding up by all parties, except the women, consisted in getting dead drunk. In walking back after seeing the feast, an animal jumped from the long grass at my feet, and consider- ably startled me, but by the impetus of moving I stepped high over his head, bringing a stick hard on to his back, which stunned him. It had an alligator- looking body, and was about three feet long. The natives call it a land guano ; they live in hollow trees. The youth who followed me, though generally a plucky fellow, ran off, and said afterwards, “ There was such a tingling in my feet, that I could not keep them from running away.” I have been trying time after time to bring about a peace between our Dyaks and a tribe living on the Kapuas river, named Kantu, but the latter had evaded our persuasions, not really being aware that it is for their good, so difficult is it to bring any strangers to exert themselves. No communication could be held QUESTIONS OF IMPORTANCE. 75 directly with this tribe, as their habitations were not in the Sarawak territory. They had also an idea that no white man could really care for their interests. A Dyak, or even Malay, often tells any one who tries abruptly to thwart their habits, “You do not know us ; we are different to you ; what is good for us is bad to others.” Then they are considered unmanage- able. Soldiers and firearms are sent to coerce them to follow strange customs. Europeans should ponder, then, when they hear of black men murdering whites. I wish in no way to justify such criminal acts ; but my belief is, that in very many cases a little more care and patience might avert them. Steamers and soldiers are not pleasant spectacles entering the heart of a land which the inhabitants have hitherto believed was specially bequeathed to them by them deity, and reserved for their purposes and habitation, and not to be delivered up to strangers more powerful than them- selves. Such is the case — such has been, and no doubt will be, the case to the end ; the strong domineer over the weak, and the weak revenge themselves upon the strons; in crino-ino- askance, and cuttino- throats. The question is, whether sufficient steps for concilia- tion are taken, and what hope is offered to the original inhabitants when they surrender them rights and pri- vileges to more powerful rulers. Can they be raised 76 TEN YEAKS IN SAKaWAK. to the condition of Europeans ? and are there any in- ducements offered and desires shown by the educated to stimulate the aborigines to attain a higher stage of civilisation ? India is far, I fear, from being on a satisfactory footing. Mental culture should be de- veloped by permitting the deserving to take a part in the government of their country, and to maintain a pride in themselves and their acts. Miss Martineau’s observations are very correct on this question :° — Raise the standard of the people, admit them freely into the council, and don’t allow colour to remain or to become the base of a separate class. Europeans too often imagine that lucre is sufficient for all purposes. It may patch wounded feelings, and cover a multitude of sins, but where it is to be found in abundance there is generally an overbalancing mixture of roughness, ill-treatment, and disrespect for feelings and customs. Money cannot be the means of making natives consider white men their friends and protectors. Bad and bitter animosities are only to be avoided by the method proposed ; if that fails, why then, so long as natives and Europeans are together, blood will be spilt in the fiercest antagonism. It is much to be deplored that the Maliommedan * Vide “ Eule in British India.’’ MAHOMMEDAN SCHOOL. 77 religion is not placed on some footing more favourable to the peace of mind of its adherents. The going Hadji to Mecca engenders a bad spirit among all the pupils who study the tenets of that school. Hostility to the Christian, I have reason to believe, is impreg- nated from that quarter. Twenty years ago, the Sarawak population had little religion of any sort ; and the first step towards bringing it to notice was when the English mission was established. The Christian church gave rise to a Mahommedan mosque. Subsequent years of prosperity have enabled the Ma- lays to receive instruction from the Mecca school. Those who are too old, or too much involved in the business of the country, send annual sums to the religious authorities there ; but at the present time I feel sure there is no fanaticism among the inhabitants, and, excepting some few doubtful points instilled into them in their education at Mecca, their religion is wholesome and happy. To the building of the last mosque, very few would come forward to subscribe. This, to a certain extent, proved there was no fervent desire for appearances. The head of the Mahommedan religion, a short time ago, requested permission to banish a false teacher, who was gaining some influence among a party in a neighbouring river. This teacher had given out that 78 TEX YE AES IX SARAWAK whoever would listen to his doctrine should become a true believer ; and for the instruction a payment was to be made of four dollars. The path to the Mahom- medan heaven, he said, should be clear, without the trouble or expense of going to Mecca to gain salvation. This fellow was doubtless an impostor, as to ask a sum of money for a new belief was clear extortion. The chief sensibly observed, “ As religious matters are progressing so comfortably, he hoped the Government would prevent antagonism before there was any open rupture, which would be injurious to all parties.” The untutored sceptic was recommended to keep quiet. The chief schismatic difference among these Maliom- medans is raised on the question of the spirit — whether it be material (personified) or immaterial ; and many who personify it, bring the Maliommedan Godhead into duality. However, of late years the people have been silent on the latter point, and follow the teaching of unity, which, probably, is the true Mahommedan Anew. So long as bickerings and fanaticism sleep, the Malays are a quiet, peaceful trading community, saying their prayers regularly, and directing their attention closely to the lucrative concerns of life ; but their habitual laziness and love of ease overrule any ambi- tion they may possess, and they go to work in their own polite, gentlemanly manner, quite regardless of A SCEPTIC.— DIFFICULTIES. 79 valuable time. The consequence is, that little pro- perty is accumulated. It is no easy matter for a European with a wife and family, while moving in the vortex of Ms civilisation, to obtain any real knowledge of the native mind, or entertain any sympathy with them. My own personal experience and observation have told me how difficult it is to manage natives in active work, when one is placed among a largish assembly of Europeans. The interest of the latter subverts the capacity for em- bracing subjects that affect natives. There seems to arise, unavoidably, a separation — a one-sidedness ; and no doubt it is natural to prefer the society of fellow- countrymen before that of people of strange habits. But, such being the case, should not people, parti- cularly Missionaries, be prepared to give up their all —even the refinements of society — to enable them to improve those among whom they labour ? And now' to revert to the Dyak tribe, from which I have digressed. We were at last successful in brine- ing about a very satisfactory peace between them. An assembly of about three hundred people was pre- sent. Sheds had been run up, and people had been waiting on the ground for days. At length, when all were assembled, the spokesman of each division made an oration, and the settlement v'as finally concluded. 80 TEX YEABS EX SAEAWAK. The first to draw a sword upon another on any future day, was to pay the established fine of eight jars. This was agreed to by all parties, and then two pigs were killed, the blood sprinkled about, and some was even taken home to touch the house, to wash away any evil tendencies there might be hanging in the atmosphere, and to appease the spirits. After this ceremony, they all mixed in the same circle, and told their different relationships, handed down through many generations, and over a large extent of country, on which were situated their many farming lands and fruit-trees, some of them long since abandoned. This is the common practice of Dyaks, and their eyes sparkle with delight on finding a new Scotch cousin, several times removed, although they may have been at feud for years, and only an hour before would have gladly carried each other’s head in a bag. Such is custom ! strong and strange to a degree. I have been absent in the Unclup country five days, partly in search of deer, partly to see the country, but mostly for the purpose of taking a change. On start- ing with my gun and few followers in a narrow boat, and so cranky that one could not stand upright in her, before we had gone a quarter of a mile we saw the tidal wave boiling over in one white curling mass of foam. I did not dare face this in our small boat ; so TEIP TO UNDUP. 81 pushing her into the mud, I seized my guns and ammunition, and jumped on shore with half the crew. This lightened her, when the remainder pushed to the centre of the river, laid her broadside on, and in this position waited the approach of the bore. The boat merely rolled considerably, and took in some spray, but did not swamp, which she certainly would have done if she had been laid with her bows to the wave, as an Englishman would have managed an English-made boat. I was standing up to my knees in mud, but the scene on the river was remarkably stirring, as upwards of twenty boats were whirling along on the top of the wave, which runs with a steady roll up the long reaches at the speed of about fifteen miles per hour. These boats had one or two men in each, and were only steered ; their bows were quite out of water, being at a much higher elevation than the river beyond them. We then proceeded up the Undup, and slept a night in a Dyak house, the effluvium of which was far from agreeable. Dogs, pigs, and poultry were making a row all night, and I regretted not having taken up my abode, in preference, on the ground outside. After the attack by the “ Dido ” on Panmtus, the Malays fled up this river ; and they now relate the particulars of their flight as a matter of history. Unfortunate children were placed in different nooks and corners YoL. IT. G 82 TEX YEAES IN SARAWAK. wdien people were tired of carrying them, as also were other valuables. Young females of rank, who had scarcely ever seen daylight, were carried on the backs of slaves, and on their being too fatigued to proceed further, the women were offered to the slaves as wives rather than they should fall into the hands of the enemy. With this promise, the slaves doubtless as- sisted them to the utmost of their power. Some of the party were for surrendering, when others of an intriguing disposition, and having less to lose, would spread the foulest and falsest reports they could invent about the white man’s atrocious and barbarous dealings with an enemy. Such reports were easily credited by the ignorant people. At length they ascended some precipitous and rocky rapids, and then v r ere beyond our reach. I little thought my midshipman’s pro- gramme, at that time, would resolve itself into my present position among these very inhabitants. The Dyaks then lived far above this point ; and a more plucky and sterling set of bull-dogs there is not to be found. The first day I walked about eight miles, to a place named Si Mubah, where there were several long houses of Dyaks, and much cleared ground with beautiful grass. A gentle stream ran through the village, with the water as clear as crystal, trickling over a gravelly UXDLT DYAKS. S3 bed. Its banks were high, and the shade of over- hanging trees afforded us shelter from a hot sun. After a bathe, I was directed to a house which was nicely laid with all the best mats ; here I made myself comfortable and at home, for the people’s hearts were well inclined, however rough their man- ners may have been, and they certainly have not the polish nor the good looks of other tribes. At night I sallied forth by moonlight to look out for deer, in places where they come to drink and bathe. I sat as quiet as possible for more than two hours behind a rock, hearing every now and then a rustling and tread of deer, but none came in sight ; so I returned with the Dyak lads, who talked away freely and expressed their sorrow for the want of. success. Past midnight we reached the stream so like a trout stream ; the moon was shining beautifully, and the scene was tranquillity itself. A long bare spar lay across about ten fathoms of space, which we crossed without a falter ; a trip would have been certain destruction, as there were many stones in its rocky bed. I retired into a coffin- shaped box, close and uncomfortable, after the bright night outside. The Dyak community snored and groaned, and now and then babies squalled, with anxious mammas anxiously and sleepily cuddling them to rest. By the first glimpse of light yawning com- SI TEX YEARS IX SARAWAK. menced, and the first waker appeared outside ; he kindled a little fire and warmed himself in a very lackadaisical manner, as if he had been half-frozen, or very intoxicated over night ; then the betel box was opened, the preparations mixed, and placed in a brass tube and pounded by a piston, as this gentleman was toothless. After ten minutes of this work, the delectable contents were capsized into his mouth in a lump, for the second mastication and final deglutition. This was his morning nip, which restored the functions of his rusty frame to their proper tone. It is a strong stimulant, and I have often felt exceedingly giddy after eating too strong a dose of it ; but when tired in walking it is an amazing restorer, at times when spirits or wine would not remain on the stomach. The pep- per}" qualities of the sirih quiet the unsettled state within, occasioned by over-fatigue in a hot sun. In a quarter of an hour all the parties were up, and then the women commenced fire-lighting for the breakfast preparations. Dyaks eat three times a day. They devour a large quantity of rice. It is surprising the starchy substance of it does not occasion more fat on their bones, but few are to be found with any excess, and hard work, I suppose, keeps them in proper form. At an early hour coffee was brought ; after which, I MORNING NIP. — A WALK. So bathed and set off with my few lads and four elderly men ; the latter had been with me on every expedition since my arrival in the country. The country about here was undulating and pleasant walking, with better paths than one generally finds in Dyak lands. I felt remarkably well, and delighted in the feeling of inde- pendence of the turmoils of the world. We must have gone about eight miles when I stopped and sat down to rest, and see the people ; the chief was absent, but a young and pretty wife did the honours of the esta- blishment, in spreading mats, bringing betel-nuts, ba- nanas, fowls, eggs, — running about with all hospit- able anxiety. I was told she had been, or was about to be, separated from her husband, on the plea of barrenness, after two years of matrimonial life. I thought, and remarked that perhaps on a future day there might be a family forthcoming ; but no, they said, she would never be fruitful. The whole house- hold gave us a part of everything they possessed, although I asked them to desist from doing so. The people are not so nice-looking as other tribes, and the offensive skin disease is common among; them, both with men and women. Another hour’s walk from this brought us to another long house ; and beyond this, about two miles over freshly-cut ground, I came to the side of a range of mountains which divides the S6 TEN YEAES IN SABAWAK. Sarawak territory from the Kapuas. Upon one of the lowest spurs we halted, being informed the deer ground was close by. A shed was erected, under which we took up our quarters ; we cooked at a little distance, and then fell off into an afternoon siesta. These mountains are named Kalangkang, and are the longest I have yet seen, extending from the head of the Sadong country to the Undup, a distance not less than forty miles ; some parts are high and pre- cipitous. The edible birds’-nests' are brought from the caves in a considerable quantity ; and gutta perclia is found of the best quality at the foot on the other side, where a different tribe of Dyaks, named “ Bagans,” are living. A peace was concluded with them a few years ago, and they have traded in a friendly manner with us ever since. In our walk to-day we passed two great heaps (timbun bula) of stones, and bits of wood; each of my followers cast a piece on to the mounds, otherwise they said sickness would befall them. This is a similar (and universal) custom to the sticking bits of rag on trees ; it put me in mind of the crosses in Roman Catholic countries where murders have been committed. “ And here and there, as up the crags you spring, Mark many rude-carv’d crosses near the path. Yet deem not these devotion’s offering ; These are memorials frail of murderous wrath ; WATCHING FOE DEEE. 87 For wheresoe’er the shrieking victim hath Poured forth his blood beneath the assassin’s knife, Some hand erects a cross of mouldering lath.” As tlie sun declined and the day cooled, I went to a watching place, which overlooked a large open swamp with a stream running through it ; this, by all accounts, was a very favourite place for deer. Just at sunset there arose a loud beseeching cry of a bird above my head. I wished it much farther, as I thought it would frighten away all the deer in the neighbourhood ; but soon my interest was absorbed by seeing two very small tantalising birds, with a pair of long feathers protruding about eight inches from their tails, bullying what seemed to me a single crow, which was making this noise, and appeared in a very sad way ; he was now perched on a tree, and his enemies were sitting near, or every moment or so flying down close to his head, when he would utter a piteous wail and peck at them. He then flew off, with the two small creatures darting round and round him, but he seemed so stag- gering that I think he must have dropped ere long, and then the birds would kill him. For what purpose this onslaught is made I never found out, as the small birds have not the appearance of carrion or butcher birds. The natives say they twist the long feather in their tail around his neck when flying along, but this ss TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. I could not credit as a fact. Hour after hour I sat there with full-cocked gun, and only one deer came down and dipped too far away, and was off again in a trice.' I was happy, and thought over thousands of matters. The musquitoes did not trouble me. My one boy had gone fast asleep over his cocked musket, requiring nudging as his snores gradually became more resonant. At midnight I returned to my shakedown, and slept hard and fast till daybreak, when I again looked around without meeting with any success. We buckled on our knapsacks and marched back to the first house, where coffee was cooked, and the people from sur- rounding places came to pay their respects and bring small presents. After an hour’s conversation on various subjects, in finding out their exact position and con- nection one with another, I again started to go back, and rolled along at an easy pace, and with one stoppage to partake of hard-boiled eggs and biscuit, we reached Si Mubah. In the course of the evening I went to all the houses to pay a visit, and the people were very polite ; in fact, nothing could surpass their civility as they pressed us to take food enough to last us a month, and begged me to stay among them. After sunset 1 again went forth to look for deer, and met many parties of Dyaks returning from cutting jungle for WATCHING FOE DEEE. 89 farming, but by the tone of merriment, and the racing about, they did not seem fatigued. In the evening I was surrounded by a large assembly, who considered it a mark of respect to keep me in conversation until a late hour. Hour after hour passed, while we talked of birds, dreams, omens, and I tried to explain to them that such usages could not really foretell or determine events. However, all my argu- ments had little effect on them. They gave me the idea of being a very ignorant people — courageous to doggedness — and they would firmly stand by one another, but they have little confidence in any other tribe, depending on the government of white men alone for protection. They are bigoted to a degree to olden customs, but kindly withal ; and on several occasions when the lads followed me they talked freely, and often surprised me by their gentle and kind in- quiries, although I was a stranger among them : such as, “ Let me carry your gun ; perhaps you will be tired in getting up the hill.” “You will be loth to come and see us again, as you have had no success.” Their conversation far surpassed what a stranger would expect, if he judged solely from their appearance, which gave no impression of intelligence or amiability. They are more versatile than peasants in England, and much softer in speech and manner. 90 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. The next morning I walked about nine miles over hill and dale to a small shed which had been erected some time since as my shooting-box. While walking we passed close to the beautiful Beragai bird, with its bright plumage. The Dyaks hold the note of this bird in much veneration, and it chirped as we passed onwards. The whole country that I have been over for the last three days is magnificently adapted for pepper plantations, and other cultures which would not require much elevation. Hills range below a thousand feet in height, and around the bases there are invariably streams running. The drinking water is excellent everywhere. My shooting-box was very prettily situated, with gigantic jungles and low hills around it. It sat quietly between them, with a trickling rill just by. This place was far preferable to a Dyak house, as we were only disturbed by the wild sounds of nature. After feeding off a handful of dried prawns and some rice, I said aloud, “ Ah ! to-morrow we shall have deer’s flesh to eat.” My Dyaks countenances immediately grew long and serious, and I at once guessed the reason. I had said something contrary to custom. To name even the word deer when searching for one is “ mali ” or “ tabooed,” and now they thought it was useless my going to look for them any more. I smiled my mis- SUPERSTITION. — DEER AT LAST. 91 take away, and told the old gentlemen witli me that my dreams were sometimes of a contrary description to theirs, consequently my conversation differed a little also. They are most superstitious people, for they listen to omens religiously, whenever on a hunting or fishing excursion, and never name the animal, for fear the spirits should carry information to the object of pursuit. At 2 a.m., when the moon was just rising above the jungle, I heard the sound of a deer calling for his companion in his bathing-place ; so, accom- panied by one youth, I set off, creeping along for about 400 yards without making a sound. On reach- ing the spot, I waited five minutes until the animal had bathed and shaken himself, when I fired. By his struggle I knew he was on his nose. My lad im- mediately started and fired also, and I followed at a steadier pace. The bank was very precipitous, and at the bottom the ground was a soft sandy mire. I called my boy a fool for firing when I had already brought down the deer, but he informed me his foot slipped, and while he tumbled head foremost, his gun had gone off by accident. He was one mass of mud, but nevertheless set to work manfully in cutting off the head of the young buck, and then we dragged it off the ground in hopes of others following their leader. This buck had soft horns, which are much prized by S2 TEN YEAES IN SAEaWAX. the Chinese, who use them for medicinal purposes. My deer satisfied the Dyaks that my dreams, and remarks in consequence, were of a peculiar description. The next morning we returned home, exposed to a drenching cold rain for three hours, during which I think I shivered as much as in the coldest weather in winter when once fitting out in Woolwich. Letters were awaiting my arrival, and the news brought back wearisome turmoils of civilisation, and with them I had to cast away the Dyak costume, and adorn myself more conventionally. During the north-east or wet monsoon, Dyak ballas (forces) continued to molest the enemy, and sometimes as many as three would be absent at a time. These were not organised merely after the Dyak mode, but were placed under a few Malay leaders and the best Dyak chiefs. Each force mustered about 1800 or 2000 men. One would go in the direction of Sadok, another towards Kajulau, and another up the Kaluka, and they acted with considerable ability in the mode of their proceedings. I merely limited them to certain districts, after which the arrangements were in their own hands, and by the reports they subsequently brought I could see that there were semi-Dyak and semi-European regulations carried out, and the leaders imitated the white commander in the way of giving DYAK FOECES. 93 directions. The birds were also attended to, but in a, more curtailed degree than in their former forays. The oldest chiefs remained at home, and said they would not move unless I accompanied the expeditions ; so we dreamt dreams, rested, and recruited, to be in readiness for the work next fine season. These active bands occasionally had panics among themselves, but were always saved by the timely energy of one or two leaders who were steady. They kept the enemy in a continual state of disco mf ort and alarm, and there were several flying reports of their wishing to submit, but there was no truth in any of them. Nothing would make them effectually surrender but a thorough defeat. They had been alternately friends and enemies for so long a time, that now it was quite useless and exceedingly dangerous to receive any communications from them. Since they had been attacked and driven out by Mr. Watson last year, extra fortifications had been thrown up on Sadok, and numbers had reinforced them. We were able to gather information of their movements from some few who occasionally ran away, and one young fellow of about eighteen years old had been brought over from Saribus Fort in chains. He was now in irons here. His account was as follows, and it pourtrays the matri- monial preliminaries required by Dyak ladies : — His 94 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. name was Achang, lie said ; lie liad been living on Sadok since his house was burnt down on the lower ground. Many had then retired there, and were living in the midst of considerable drawbacks and difficulties, as water was scarce, and all the necessaries for household purposes were far away on the lower ground. Then he had been of late enamoured of a damsel younger than himself, and had been refused, in consequence of his never having proved himself a warrior in cooking a head. She said, “Why don’t you go to the Saribus Fort, and there take the head of Bakir (the Dyak chief), or even that of the Tuan Hassan (Mr. Watson), and then I will deign to think of you and your desires with some degree of interest.” The young man after this rebuke agreed, with another lad of his own age and inexperience, to set off for the purpose required, and after the preparatory proceeding of dreams, birds, missing their road, and many other hindrances, he reached the vicinity of the fort, and very sensibly arranged with his companion that it would be desirable to find shelter in a Chinaman’s house, under the plea of wishing to purchase some of his goods. They were kindly received, and ate their meal in peace with the Chinaman, and retired in the evening, with the intention of taking the Chinaman’s head, instead of the Tuan Hassan's or Bakir’s, as the YOUTH CAUGHT NAPPING.. 95. first, if well cooked, would pass off for anybody else’s. At midnight they agreed to strike the blow, — the time came, and the inhabitants were aroused by the piteous howls of the owner of the house. People rushed to the place, which was only twenty yards from the fort, and before five minutes were over, fifty people were on the spot, finding the poor Chinaman with his face gashed all down one side. The young fellow’s com- panion had done this. Achang himself was still fast asleep, in total ignorance of what had taken place. He was now aroused, pulled neck and crop into the fort, and placed in chains. They wished to cut him down then and there, which he really deserved, but it was the wiser plan to send him to Sakarang the next morn- ing. He was brought over the twelve miles of road with a long chain attached to his waist, as if he had been a wild animal, and hungry Dyaks were following around, wishing to bribe his keepers, and holding a kind of auction within the unfortunate lover’s hearino* for his head. The companion, on hearing the China- man bluster so loudly, decamped, and, although imme- diately pursued, could not be found. Poor Achang was left in irons for over a month, and then released. He afterwards became very useful in gardening and other occupations, and was a general favourite. A more innocent youth could scarce be seen anywhere. TEX YEAES IX SAEaWAK. .86 He had slept so soundly, in consequence of a partial deafness. The march over to Sakarang the day after the event brought grey hairs on his head, although he was not yet nineteen years of age. This lad informed me the enemy were provided with powder and all munitions of war from Mukah by the Seriff M assahore, whose name and power supported their cause. His emissaries had frequently been among them, and urged on every occasion resistance to Sarawak rule. The Ivayans also were their staunch supporters, and a few of their people were staying in that country to gather all the assistance they could, in case, on a future day, of requiring a safe retreat. They were as active as ourselves, and scarce a week elapsed without bringing news of some life lost or some attack made ; and Kanowit was constantly dis- turbed by the attacks from the Kayans on the upper side, and the danger of loitering bands coming from Mukah to do any mischief they could on the lower side. Most of this population had been in some way connected with the Seriff Massaliore ; and there lay the peril of such weak and unprincipled fellows receiving his agents. So long as they could see and feel a powerful protection from Government, they were safe to us ; but directly that ceased, they would side with the more active party, to be directed at their STATE OF AFFAIRS. bidding, although there was little doubt they were most desirous of peace and security under our flag. On the opposing side they would be called out to fight or work as a parcel of slaves. A few months previous to this juncture, the little steamer, “ Rainbow,” arrived in Sarawak, and she was welcomed as a godsend of no ordinary description, whereby communication could be quickly carried on and outposts relieved or reinforced within a short time. She was the small piece of iron and machinery which could carry Sarawak’s flag, and raise the name of the Government in the minds of the people on the coast. We had been, if facts be told plainly, ever since the shake and shudder caused by the Chinese insurrec- tion, followed, up as it was by other difficulties, only able to keep our heads on our shoulders and drag our- selves through the mire by dint of the hardest labour and deepest anxieties ; sometimes moving forward after an extra exertion, but to be again nearly over- turned before a few steps had been taken. It was the struggle between good and evil ; free trade and monopoly ; between the new rule and old misrule ; between order and anarchy. The people were true, but our means were wasting away in this struggle with the ill-disposed. In this need, a valuable friend assisted the Sarawak Government with a steamer ; and for such TOL. II. H 98 TEX YEAES IX SAB A WAX. a benefit, at sucb a time, tliose who were really in- terested, and engaged in the country, could never be sufficiently grateful. She was our leading star, which permitted us to steer successfully after our battles had been fought ; for we had always been strong enough to attack and conquer our enemies, but then our diffi- culties lay in keeping them in subjection afterwards. Love may exist between individuals, but the respect of a people to their Government is only gained by the substantial power and authority it can wield. After the “ Rainbow ” had taken a few trips in various direc- tions, her services were needed for more important business, to proceed, namely, to Brunei with the Rajah, for the purpose of bringing about a satisfactory result, so as to expel the Seriff Massahore from Mukah, and re-open trade and friendly intercourse. There was no difficulty in effecting these measures with the Brunei Rajahs, as they placed the greatest reliance and confi- dence in Sir James Brooke’s character for justice, and immediately offered him the coast as far as Ivadurong, upon a certain sum being paid annually. The necessary documents were drawn out, and re- ceived the Sultan’s signature, commanding the different chiefs of those rivers to abide strictly by all measures ordained by the Rajah of Sarawak, and to obey him as the ruler of that country. CESSION OF TERRITORY. 99 Thus were about 110 miles of coast annexed to the Sarawak territory — valuable for the sagu forests, but in a most disturbed state, owing to a long period of the worst anarchy and misgovernment. Its inhabitants had many redeeming qualities when once relieved from the Brunei tyranny and oppression, as they were in- dustrious and clever in different trades, particularly that of working wood, and the rougher kinds of jungle labour. But they required a severe hand over them, although a just one, and were scarcely able to appre- ciate kindness. They had considered it a merit to a certain exteat to be the Sultan’s slaves, although they had many times smarted under the foulest injustices, and been deprived of even wives and daughters : the majority of the latter class were often taken for the Bajah’s harems. The women were considered better looking than most others on the coast, having agreeable counte- nances, with the dark, rolling open eye of Italians, and nearly as fair as most of that race ; but I could never admire the colour, as they exhibited an almost unwholesome sallowness, and a want of vivacity upon their puddingy features. The men are cleanly, and generally well dressed, but not so nice-looking as many other tribes. These are all in the Malanau division of inhabitants. Subsequent to this annexation, a force 100 TEX YE AES ENT SARAWAK. was organised in Sarawak, which set off as soon as possible for Mukah, where the Sultan’s despatches were presented ; and the population, including the Seriff Massahore, submitted to the Rajah’s authority, and gave no further trouble. The Seriff Massahore was banished the country, and his people were removed and placed under strict surveillance. Then Mukah was weeded of the Brunei aristocracy, who returned to the capital. Quiet was restored, and ere many weeks were passed, the inhabitants commenced their several occu- pations under the flag of Sarawak, in the place of that of Brunei. Their staple food and produce, the beautiful sagu palm, was again brought from the forests and worked up, and fishing-boats passed out at certain seasons of the moon for fishing purposes. The beaches were lined ever} 7- morning by parties of twos and threes wading knee-deep with their nets, and the stirring sounds of the axe and adze, the appearance of females at their household occupations, and the squall- ing of children, were all revived. Their clumsy-look- ing sea-going fishing-boats with which they trawl, are built something like an oval washing-tub, only a little longer in dimensions, and the sides are raised high, without ribs of any description. These boats go out in the heaviest seas ; and in coming through the surf FISHING-BOATS. 101 they adopt a plan which I believe is quite new in the science of European seamanship. The rollers are tremendous on this coast in the N.E. monsoon, and break all across the bars at the mouths of the rivers. But it is seldom these fellows would not go out, if wind and tide permitted. They have an idea that then* boats cannot founder in a high sea unless they go to pieces. They pull short oars with a plunging and splashing stroke, with more jerk than spring, and the tub splashes through the water as dry as a collier, and while coming in through a heavy breaking surf running far over then’ heads, they watch for the roll, and while in the trough pull with all their might ; but when the wave is curling to break, they suddenly slew their crafts broadside on, and so receive it with the exposed side well out of water. Directly it has passed, away they go again as fast as possible, until another roller overtakes them, when they repeat the same manoeuvre. It is well known in Mukah, and other places in the vicinity, that the wives close their doors and will not receive their lpisbands unless they procure fish ; and this may be an incite- ment to undergo such dangers. The women work hard themselves, and make the sagu, which is a remarkably dry condiment without the accompani- ment of fish ; hence their desire for husbands, plus 102 TEN YE AES IN SARAWAK. fish — and the refusal to admit them without that article. At the time the Mukah business was being agitated, my party were also actively organising a large force of Dyaks, of the Sakarang and Saribus rivers, to make an attack on the Sarikei and Nillong Dyak countries, which had for years past been in a state of hostility towards us. The expedition started, and we gathered at the mouth of Xillong, about one hundred and fifty large boats with our pinnace. The enemy was reported to be strong at the head of these streams. The pinnace could not proceed further than this spot, and already had been lying for one tide on her beam ends across a large snag. In the morning, Mr. Matson and myself proceeded in our own boats, wending in single file along the narrow and circuitous reaches, as silently as cats. Point after point we passed, expecting each would bring on to us a volley of either shot or spears ; and here the river was so narrow that we might have jumped to the banks at any time. The pinnaces G- pounder gun and gear was in a canoe in tow, to be drawn up on the banks, if we saw an enemy, to oppose whom we should immediately have erected a stockade. I have a great preference for terra firma on such occasions, as a solid and immovable basis is encouraging, PURSUIT OP ENEMIES. 103 whereas boats swamp and roll, or break, leaving one nearly helpless. We pushed on for about two hours, until my long boat was jammed in between the grassy banks, and a-head was a bedding of solid wood, of felled jungle trees ; farming lands were on either side, and here we cleared away the grass, and threw up a small stockade around, and our force spread their wings right and left to find out the stronghold of an enemy. The upshot was, that houses were burnt ; enemies were seen retreating in all directions, and their property was destroyed, after which we returned to the mouth. I observed there was a greater variety of firs on the banks of this river, than in any other place I have before seen in these parts. Some small hillocks were beautifully covered with the feathery costume of the trees there, of a pale green colour. And now we were to ascend the Sarikei branch, the mouth of which is close to Nillong. After two days’ hard pulling we reached a spot where evidently the enemy had lately been trading, as a large boat was lying here filled with padi. The Dyaks followed up the track, and saw the smoke of the enemy retreating- over hills far distant. I was not anxious to take any steps which might lead to much loss of life, and after lying here one day amid our force, which had burnt the surrounding huts, and destroyed boats, &c. 104 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. belonging to tlie enemy, I left this desolate locality at dusk, on a lovely starlight evening, with the sky clear, and air exhilarating and delicious. Perhaps it was one of the most beautiful sights it has ever been my lot to behold, while viewing our force drifting down this stream, with the branches of trees thickly entwined or overlapping above our heads. There was consider- able danger of running on the numerous sharp rocks which almost barred the passages in many places, and each boat’s crew held torches to thread their way onward. These torches waving from a force of nearly two hundred boats drifting by the current, amid the branches of trees, produced a remarkable appearance. It was a truly magnificent sight. Mr. Watson and myself lay on the top of our boats with the soothing- cigar, and contemplated this stirring yet placid scene with pleasing satisfaction. Many of the boats of the force were new ; some of them were well put together and very large. While passing one old fellow this morning, I observed that his craft was exceedingly beautiful — he replied, “ Tuan, such are our kinds of pinnaces ; yours are of a different description and better for sea, but ours are regulated for land, and there we beat yours, for we can walk away with ours and build her again in any other direction, in the rivers on the other side of mountains.” DANGERS— RETURN. 103 I proceeded to Mukah, and the Dyak force returned to their homes. And a month after this I was again leading my usual quiet life at Sakarang, varied by few exciting or important incidents. CHAPTER III. Runaway match — Alligators — Slave woman — Malay marriage — Trivial cases — Sympathy — Ladies’ advice — Preparations for expe- dition — Rentap’s second wife — Undup Dyaks — Start — Sungei Ludam — Saribus — Kindness of Dyak — Ascent of river — Behaviour of men — Our march — Dyak strength — Bad paths — Caution to travellers — Landing a gun — Boasting assertion — Rentap — Sub- mission of a division — Rentap’s pertinacity — Pig killing — Burn- ing on Sadok — Loyioh’s appearance — The intense labour of gun carrying — Its arrival on the summit — Open fire — Entry and victory — The contents — Aims recovered — Place burnt — Guu left — We descend — Bivouack for night — Snake’s intrusion — Wet and weary — Arrival at home — Calm — Saribus Malays — The Laxi- mana — Ilis last request of me. September , 1 SGI . — With the woman of eastern clime, love is like the sun’s rays in warmth ; she runs from her parents, casts off brother and sister, and all other relations, for the man to whom she has taken a fancy ; even though he be ugly, deformed, poor or degraded, it matters not ; she follows him after having been even separated by force, and threatened with excommunication and death if she again approaches the man of her choice. She is heedless, and elopes at night adorned in man’s shabby habiliments, with a tattered head-dress and short rusty sword, steals a EUNAWAY MATCH. 107 small broken canoe, and pulls night and day from one river to another, crossing their ripply entrances with trepidation and alarm, but dexterously dragging her crazy craft over the surf, until she finds him who is nearest her heart. She gains her haven exhausted from exposure and hunger, for she has perhaps only taken a handful of dry rice, and has crossed over eighty miles without help from any one, her eager heart alone sur- mounting the many intervening difficulties and dangers. This episode happened while I was in Sarawak. A Seripa had fallen in love with a working man, whom, according to custom, she was not permitted to marry. Death would have been the penalty in olden times ; but this young lady of sweet seventeen underwent what is above narrated, and said, “ If I fell in love with a wild beast, no one should prevent me marrying it..” Most astonishing accounts are told of the fearful ravages of alligators, and many of these statements are tinged with the marvellous and superstitious. I may relate an instance which happened some years ago, for the truth of which I can vouch, as it was narrated by the principal Malay chief in Sarawak who regulates the settlement of marriages, divorces, &e. He is a good man in the best sense of the term ; not one to be easily misguided, honourable and plain spoken, active and energetic, agreeable in conversation, quick in com- 10S TEX YEAES IX SAEAWAK. prehension, and with sufficient wit and tact to maintain his position as an efficient support to the Government, and as an active leader of his people besides. But he is not a man with the courtly finesse which captivates an Eastern, and he is perhaps more honest in con- sequence. Some years ago he was sent with a letter from his father to Sambas, which is about fifty miles distant; and while leaving Sambas, after having settled their affairs, he was cautioned by the principal man of the place not to proceed after 4 p.m., at which hour he recommended their landing to build sleeping places on the banks of the river, with a paling of wood around to keep off alligators. However, the crew of eighteen men trusted to their number, and swiftly pushed on, hoping to gain a house soon after dark. After sunset they advanced breathlessly, and had great difficulty in finding a man to take the bowsman’s place, as that was con- sidered the post of danger. While pulling up a long reach which was very much overshaded by the branches of trees, the boat’s way was suddenly impeded, which called from the helmsman a command for the bowsman to keep a better look-out for the snags in the river, as the boat was low and easily upset. Before the words were well out of his mouth, a huge monster charged the broadside of their craft, pushing his head in side- ALLIGATORS. 109 ways, and, seizing a man amidships, as well as a large rattan basket, carried them both off together for good. After this they pushed for the shore, which they reached just in time for the crew to jump out before swamping, minus the one man. The boat’s way had been arrested, in the first place, by an alligator plunging under the bows and lifting the boat up considerably, and before she again advanced, the alligator had charged the broad- side and taken the man out. This same chief complained of the trouble he had been taking to quell some of the bad and turbulent qualities of his slave-women, and had been exerting his utmost influence to reclaim two of them, but found it was useless. So he now requested that the law would afford him assistance in obliging them to return to their rightful masters. One of the damsels had been in the habit of absenting herself for three or four days, and then coming back at her own pleasure. The chief re- monstrated strongly, as it was his duty to do, and he required her to take her oath on the Koran, with her hand in his, that she would not leave again without his permission. However, after three days had elapsed she had gone again, and on her return he told her he would give her one more trial, and if she did not obey his injunctions she should be put in the stocks. Again she broke her promise, and she then had her legs fastened 110 TEN YEAES IN SAKAWAK. between two planks nailed together, which answered the purpose of stocks. On the evening of the second day, while the chief was passing, he kindly asked her whether she repented, and if she would promise to be good in future, he said he would release her. She replied in an innocent tone, “Why, Datu, you will never trust my promises, as I have already taken my oath on the Koran, and broken it, and I can’t expect such kindness from you ; but wait for the morning, when I have thought and slept over it.” The morning came, and the stocks were found empty, the planks having been cut through with a small knife (which lay on the floor) that had been given to her by the boys. She had completed her task the evening before while talking to the Datu, but her legs were artfully covered. Since then, the Datu added, “I have ceased further admonitions.” A Malay marriage in high life took place this evening, the preliminaries of which had been going on for the last twelve days. Salvos of guns at different times of the night were fired, which disturbed us all consider- ably, so much so that some of the female part of the white community were laid up in consequence. Pre- sents were brought to me, consisting of various kinds of curried fowls, and many other very savoury preparations. The man who ushered in the bearers, I could instantly tell, was a slave, but his salute was perfect, and his SLAVE WOMAN — MALAY MARRIAGE. Ill manner, without abjectness or ostentation, was really polished. His smile upon his entry was more finished than the most complete artiste could have adopted; and taking me by the hand, he said, “ The Hadji sends these to you, but they are not very good.” He then sat down with the rest. About ten boys were of the party, Avho were on their best behaviour for the space of ten minutes, then commenced some monkeyish tricks, and they ran away grinning. Boys will ever be boys. These were only slaves. The party sat for twenty minutes, and then returned, conveying my com- pliments and thanks to the Hadji. After spending a few days on my solitary hill retreat, Braiun, I returned to Sakarang, and on appearing in public the morning after, a number of cases were brought. The first party told me the Si Galang people wished to locate themselves at the mouth of this river, on a small stream named Sibuyau. They begged me to assist them with rice and other articles of food and comfort. These rascals wished to cut our throats only a few months ago, so I informed them there would be a good watch kept on them in future, and that they must find their own rice. Another party of Dyaks said they had quarrelled about farming land with some Sakarang Dyaks, who wished to kill them. I informed this pai;ty that whoever 112 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. was guilty of killing would be fined twelve jars (about £140). 3rd . — Another suitor advanced a complaint against a certain man at Lingga, whom he suspected of having stolen his property about four years ago, when his slave was killed and his house burnt. In examining the fellow, he said he thought it was this man, because he had been told so by a Hadji who had some mysterious means of finding out thieves. This case was dismissed by my telling the man that thoughts were of little use without witnesses, and if he found the latter I should be glad to assist him. Another man’s adopted mother died ten years ago, and he wished the property to be fairly divided, as the deceased’s husband kept it all to himself, whereupon a squabble of words ensued. The case was to be settled the first opportunity by a com- mission of native chiefs, who would decide according to established custom. A case of debt which arose twenty-five years ago was summarily dismissed. There were other trivial matters, which came up out of hours, with a request to be allowed to bring them in, in court hours, or not, but almost all were settled by a word or two, and the people returned home, so far as I could judge, satisfied. Shortly after this I spent one day in an old Dyak’s house, and had the unpleasant task of condoling with TRIVIAL CASES— CONDOLENCE. 113 the chief on the occasion of his wife’s death. She also had been an old friend of mine, and this house was my general stopping-place when passing up or down the river. The locality is a dreadful one, and the wonder is how people can live on such a dead swamp of black mire, emitting as it does the most disgusting effluvia, at the time of low water, from a fresh-water stream. The old man’s son had been one of my fort men- for years, a fine handsome fellow, with manners peculiarly gentle and unassuming ; the sister now had charge of the father’s establishment, and had attended to all the household and domestic duties since the decease of her mother. This was no light or easy task ; she had to cook, draw water, husk padi, to farm, and to attend to her father’s wants, and as she was such a comely-looking creature I pitied her desolate condition. I remained the evening here, as the bore in the river is tremendous at this season, but the mosquitoes in this place were most trying, and no arrangement of the curtains would keep them out. On arriving at Lingga, I met the population, to try and put a stop to a party who had been levying extor- tionate sums from the I)yaks, and in many other ways molesting and intriguing with them, but as they lived on, or just over our borders, I was not able to use any direct means of thwarting such proceedings. The only VOL. II. I 114 TEN TEAKS IN SARAWAK. plan was to discountenance them as chiefs, and cut off their traffic and communication ; this they all promised to do. I spent a few days in Sarawak, partly to prepare for a coming expedition to attack Sadok for the third time, and partly and chiefly to meet the Rajah before his return to England. My heart was rejoiced to see so many amiable faces collected, with civilised ways and dresses, and the stay was beneficial to me. One lady observed, “ When you again visit England, you must remain a long time there to become re-naturalised .” Much business was discussed — and sugar mills were a chief subject. Political topics were argiled with a vivacity striking in the extreme. But I was glad again to be backward bound, as my thoughts, heart and soul, were wrapt in coming events, and I cared little about re-naturalisation, or crinoline accom- plishment among the civilised. September, 1801. — On this expedition we had arranged to take rockets, a 12-pounder gun, a working party of twenty Chinamen, and a force of Africans, and all the available arms from Sarawak. The Chinamen were to make roads and work at the soil in various ways, the Sidi boys were to be the dashing men who would bravely storm any position, heedless of fire or sword. Each man was to be provisioned with rice enough for two PREPARATIONS. 115 months, and more than ordinary preparations were making — spare ammunition, and every needful thing for house building, or stockades, or gun-fittings -were stocked and stowed away in small boxes for carrying overland, and these things were collected at the fort in Saribus. I was in great anxiety about the Dyaks farming, as the weather was so extremely adverse that the jungle bad not been burnt, and owing to this, padi planting was not yet commenced. Day after day, week after week, and still rain, rain, continually, — each drop seemed to pierce my heart. But some hundreds of Dyaks had met me, and they said, “ Farming or no farming, we follow on the expedition.” These promises somewhat comforted me, but yet I thought of the future, when these fellows would have nothing to eat, if the force was long absent on Sadok, and the padi had not been planted before leaving. Some paltry reports were brought in, saying the Sadok people wished to communicate ; wolf had been cried so often, that I did not heed it now ; but they are unsettled, and on seeing our force, may make some successful overtures for peace. Words are at an end, and a punishment must be inflicted — then the door of conciliation may be opened. They have had many opportunities of living quietly, on friendly terms with us. 116 TEN YEAES IN SAEA AVAIL but liave steadily rejected all offers of peace, *and many lives have been lost in consequence. One admires these fellows fighting for their independence and in defence of the customs of their forefathers, but yet they are so irretrievably bad, that honest trade cannot dwell in the vicinity of such characters. Old Rentap had been a steady enemy, with only a small following immediately around him, and I really believe no other Dyak would have had the obstinacy to remain in such a position for so long a time ; his own Pyaks even dislike him, and are afraid of him, as his violence sometimes is dangerous. He was guilty of killing one of his own people not long ago. The old fellow had lately married a second wife, whom he fetched from far down the river, among many people who were particularly averse to the match ; however, the lady ran off with him at night, and mounted his eyrie unmolested by her own party ; his old wife was discarded, and the young one became the Ranee of Sadok. This was done quite in opposition to their established custom, but no one dared to dictate custom to such a surly old dog as Rentap. Hurrah for fine weather ! for the last Uiree days the sun has been scorcliingly hot, and the felled jungle must be now dry. Smoke is curling and wreathing up in various directions, and the sun is obscured, showing only now and then a red fiery -looking orb. W e are KENTAP, AND HIS SECOND WIFE. 117 enveloped in tliis haze, and it renders the atmosphere peculiarly unpleasant and sultry. This condition some- times lasts for ten and fifteen days, and extends far out to sea. Watson and myself walked over the Undup hills, and some of the peeps of country were very beautiful, — long ridges of hills, and grand ravines, large mountains peering over these smaller hills. Gardening is my principal amusement, and my flowers look gay and plentiful ; basketfuls are gathered every morning, and nosegays arranged on every table in my palace. My mind is not settled enough to read any work which requires attention, so I dive into scraps, and divers poems ; the latter have had a peculiar charm for me in solitude, in fact when I first took up my abode in these jungles, I indulged myself to too great a degree in the fairy realms of Byron and Shelley, and was obliged to turn on the other tack and scarp the heavier part of literature, Gibbon, Lardner, &c., and these saved me from giving way to flights of fancy, or from sinking too far into despondency and ennui. My prayer now is for a successful expedition, but rain — the time of year so near the rainy season — and want of food, for many of the Dyaks (particularly those of Saribus) are padi-less, don't promise a successful result. 1 IS TEX YEARS IN SARA WAX. Hard work is in prospect, and it is no easy task, for having been on the mountain twice, I know what to expect — more kicks than halfpence, more hauls than presents, more wet jackets than warm dinners ; and yet with all these attendant complaints, I will confess I like the work, and would not abandon it though thousands of ducats were placed before me ; such are the strange contradictions of one’s disposition. Only after wet miry couches, downy or rosy beds and pictured drawing- rooms are truly appreciated. I sat up late one night with three Undup Dyaks who were Avell known to me, and to eke out a con- fabulation, I plied them mildly with a few glasses of wine ; this inciter warmed the springs of their hearts, and soon occasioned a flow of conversation. The three men were all related, but no three could be more entirely opposite in character. One was a lively old father of a family, who smiled joyously as he expressed himself in his true and genial speech, although he did not care for saying more than he actually wished to outpour from a light heart. He was playful and volatile. The second was deeper and graver, knew more art, expressed him- self with care, and felt a self-conscious pride or .conceit, which told him to make a show. This man had mixed with the Malays, and had been trained into their artificial ways ; he corrected the volatile individual, UNDUP DYAES. 119 and dilated on the proper method of behaviour before men of rank and strangers, until a poke in the ribs from the father of a family upset his gravity, and nature recovered herself by his bursting out into a laugh at his own folly, in spite of art and education. The third was a quiet, stolid, sickly, elderly man, who drawled out some prosy and maudlin remarks about a disease then on him, and asked for medicine ; he said his heart was true as steel to the Government, and so it was, for there was not a more courageous man in the river. He suffered from a complaint common in this country, a weakness and wasting away without any apparent cause. Doctors even are at a loss to give any account of this disease. The liver and heart are sound, and a change of climate and food would perhaps be the only effectual cure ; medicines will only stave it off for a time. I attribute the disease principally to some poison inhaled in unwholesome localities, or in the wet farming grounds, and the want of strong stimulants in the system causes it to become stagnant from poverty of blood, rendering it susceptible of poisons from these thick and miasmatic jungles or night airs, and hurtful smells in filthy houses. Our party of Europeans, Messrs. Watson, Cruiekshank, and Sergeant Lees were collected in Saribus, and the arms had all reached safely. October 7. — I left Sakarang, after going through the 120 TEN YEAES IN SAEaWAX. same preliminaries as on former expeditions. The weather is fine, and moon at the 2nd, my general day for starting. By the time of the full I expect to be in the enemy’s country. The comfort of moonlight can only be appreciated by those who have been accustomed to spend dark nights in dangerous positions. We are well provisioned, and a feeling of satisfaction prevails throughout the force ; they imagine that Sadok must fall this third time of asking. My boat is a picture, 54 feet long and about 3^ broad, quite new, and as fast as a witch ; the dear old one named “ Young Duck ” left her bones in Saribus, and has now resolved herself into a part of the muddy bank. My new one is about the same size, named “ Lightning,” which I bought for $80 of a Sarawak chief, after she had raced and beaten every boat in Sarawak. My crew are all old and picked followers, whom I have known for years; perhaps it would be impossible to stow even as many as ten Europeans in her. Our provisions are rice, salt, fish, fowl (preserved), sirih and betel-nut, and many little parcels of sweets made up in fanciful fashions by their dear wives, sisters, or sweethearts before starting. The Dyaks make little show as yet; they are still pushing on with their padi planting, and many hundreds, even thousands, will proceed by land and join me in different directions about the foot of Sadok. This may cause some THE START. 121 confusion, but it is inevitable. On our way down the river we stopped for the night on the banks, about half- way to Lingga, and at midnight the mosquitoes and closeness of the atmosphere in my crowded boat almost drove me crazy, although I give myself credit for a calm temperament in most emergencies, but this time I threw my agitated person overboard, and braved alligators rather than mosquitoes. The coolness of the muddy stream renovated me after half-an-hour’s soaking in the manner of the deer when they are so pitifully tormented by stinging flies, and rush about madly. The next morning (8th) we were at Lingga; my wretched little lone abode was paradise compared to a boat. Here I met my friend Mr. ******, and a quarter of an hour’s conversation with him put me in spirits. These Banting Dyaks are putting off, as usual ; they rely on their powers of persuasion, and are fond of raising difficulties ; but now have some reason for com- plaining, as their padi is not yet planted. I met them all, and told them that they would have to pay a duty on farming land belonging to Government, if they re- fused to assist in fighting against our common enemies. After many queries, they returned with the intention of making immediate preparations, and will doubtless in a few days be on the move. The natives are continually 122 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. around me asking questions, and bothering for this and that. 1 commenced to read Thomson’s story of New Zealand, which is an interesting work to a person living among a people so similar in many of their prac- tices to the New Zealanders, the inhabitants of one country being as warlike as the other, but each in- heriting the natural characteristics of their respective climates ; the one with savager passions, more energetic, and with greater power and physical strength, — the other inhabiting the warmer climate, less bloody-minded, more indolent and polished in manners, with a greater degree of mildness and affection, with less strength of mind and nerves, and smaller in stature ; but yet capable of surprising endurance and energy, if the in- tense warmth of climate be taken into consideration. Both are imitative and apt for improvement. Thomson makes mention of amalgamation by inter- marriage ; and this has often struck me as being the only means by which an effective harmony can be brought about between the white and black races ; their progeny would in all probability be a more valuable and better people for either New Zealand or Borneo, than thorough-bred Europeans, who invariably degenerate after a long absence from their native climate. Take America, for instance, — look at India and China, — Straits’ Settlement, — and many other parts where Euro- INTERMIXTURE OF RACES. 123 pean communities are either money-making visitors, or deteriorating their physical and mental European quali- ties by permanent residence. Can such lands as these always be subservient to John Bull, whose children are not even able to inhabit them? They must surely, on a future day, have a type and class of their own creation for development. A mixture has always proved bene- ficial to men and animals in producing certain modifying qualities. How little true blood of fifteen generations ago runs in our own veins ; and if it had not been for the influx of the fresh dashing spirits of the, so called, barbarians of the North, what unfortunate and effete creatures we should be at this time ; perhaps scarcely a match for the New Zealanders or Dyaks. ' The mix- ture of the Chinese and Dyak is a fair sample of the improvement of both races, and the intermixture of the Dyak with the Indian would approximate to the Aryan type. I write with diffidence, but a semi- coloured population brought about by intermixture, and consequent modifications by gradual steps, would be for many reasons the people most adapted for Eastern countries. But hitherto there has been too little in common to enable respectable alliances to be formed between the native and European inhabitants. 10 th . — We left Lingga at 7 a.m. with a force of only ten or twelve boats, and, after six hours’ swinging pull, 124 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. we arrived at Sungei Ludam, which is about thirty-five miles from Lingga. A few Dyak boats had preceded me, but my force was very dilatory and unwilling to move until the very last hour. We lay in the stream for four days waiting for the force, feeding off dried fish, rice, and bad water, without any room to stretch our limbs except a sandy beach, which was so covered with fallen trees that walking was out of the question. Many a bloody episode could these banks tell, even within my experience; and previous to that time probably the murders and massacres perpetrated here were of yearly occurrence, perhaps, in the fine season, I may almost say monthly. It lies an equal distance between the mouths of Saribus and Batang Lupar, and head-hunting parties never went out without making this a lurking place, while the more peaceably disposed were anxious to stop here for the purpose of catching fish, or to seek shelter in foul and stormy weather. Four years ago the Saribus Malays were living at the mouth of their river, and, with very few exceptions, were hostile to us ; still, they were on friendly terms so far as gaining trade, and making use of the merchandise they could only get by com- munication with Sarawak. A party of five people, three men and two women, left Sakarang to go to Saribus for the purpose of meeting some of their rela- tions. After they had been absent a considerable time, HOBRIBLE EPISODE. 12 j the news was brought back that they had been beheaded by Dyaks*in this river. It happened thus: they met a boat’s crew of Dyaks while in Saribus, and spoke together, saying they were traders, and they were also seeking for fish. "When the Malays were leaving Saribus to return, the Dyak boat followed in their wake, entered this river together, and on the following day proceeded to carry out their sly and murderous design. In the morning they offered their swords for sale, and sold or exchanged one, permitting the Malays to make an exceedingly profitable bargain ; they then proposed fishing wfith a hand net on the mud bank, and persuaded a Malay named Limin (who was well known and considered a brave man) to separate from the others, to cast the net ; this w r as done for some time, and they were successful in bagging fish, and were going further and further from the boats. At length the net fouled on a stump at the bottom, and one of the Dyaks immediately off sword and dived down, as poor Limin thought, to clear it, but instead of doing so the wily rascal twisted it firmly round and round, came up to take breath, and then again dived, and again twdsted it in divers ways round the stumps ; he then rose, and said he could not clear it, but asked Limin to try. Limin unsuspectingly took off his sword, dived, and on approaching the surface breathless, the two Dyaks struck and decapitated him without a sound. They then took 126 TEX YEARS EX SARAWAK. his head and returned to their boat. A third Malay was persuaded to administer some cure to* a Dyak’s foot, which was bleeding slightly ; while the Malay was leaning over and looking to the wound, one of them chopped off his head from behind. After this the women were decapitated. They lost one head, which tumbled into the water, but the other four, with all the property belonging to the Malay party, were taken and carried away to Sadok. Limin had been a fortman of mine for some years, and his wife was a pretty, nice creature, whom I used to designate by the affectionate term of “ cook.” She was a great favourite, and I hope I may have an opportunity of meeting those mur- derers on Sadok, where they are living. Subsequently to this event, fifteen of the Saribus Dyaks were cut off by the Linggas, upon this very placid-looking little stream. 14 th . — We now muster eighty boats here, besides many that have gone on. The sea runs high; but I resolve to try, and at eight o’clock we start. A long point of shallow water, breaking over a soft muddy bed running for two or three miles to seaward, has to be rounded before we can enter the Saribus. The ebb tide swept us out within a few minutes, and then we began to dip, but too late, for we could not turn with- out swamping ; so on we pulled, and on looking astern. SABIBUS. 127 I found none of the Malays were following. They were evidently wiser than their leader. We could not ap- proach the breakers, and our long skim-along went over by dint of the most careful steering. One mistake would have sunk us. I felt breathless with anxiety, and not a syllable was uttered by the crew, who pulled for their lives. Not until we were out of danger did any one utter a word. What a relief it was getting out of such a dilemma and such suspense ! Aing told me afterwards he climbed a tree to look at us, and then could only see the top of our flagstaff occasionally ; but he knew it was of uo use following in his small boat. We hastened up to the Saribus fort, where I found the Europeans all waiting our arrival. 1 (ith . — Before daylight I was up making arrange- ments about carrying the gun, &c., by river, and some small sampans were prepared to take such articles. The powder and shot were divided among the boats, and the natives assisted and were willing to carry such things without any stringent orders. They knew too well that Sadok could only be taken by a large gun, and Dyaks were continually begging me to let them see the gun, and then would remark that it looked very short, and inquired how far a shot could be dispatched from its muzzle. It was a 12-pounder howitzer, cast in Sara- wak, weight 7J cwt. The evening before, we had tried a 12S TEX YEARS IN SARAWAK. couple of rockets (12-pounder with shells), which carried as true as a rifle ; besides this we had a 6-pounder brass gun, and many hundred rounds of shot, shell, grape, fire-balls, &c. 17 tli . — We held the banum (council of war) this morn- ing on the ground under a burning sun ; some forty people were present. I told them our destination was Sadok, and no other place right or left was to be attacked ; that this time we were well armed, and if we failed in taking the place, we should take up our abode there, and not return until Rentap was starved out ; that it must fall before we returned. If Nanang’s party would surrender, conditions might be made, so as to preclude any possibility of our being deceived by them. We then arranged the mode of carrying the guns and ammunition ; the Saribus Dyaks and the Malays had the heaviest work, as it was up their river. The 12-pounder was given to them to bring whichever way they thought best ; and then a few more remarks were passed, and all ended in thinking that Rentap’s house this time must be burnt, come what might. We start to-morrow morning. All hands were busy in making small preparations, and as most thought we should perhaps be a month on Sadok, the articles for food, shelter, and warmth num- bered many more than usual. The bottles, both round and square, and the tin meats belonging to the Christian A KIND DTAK. 129 community, were really alarming ; but the rule was to make a mistake on the right side rather than other- wise. 18^/i. — Fitz Cruickshank and myself preferred sleep- ing on the cold sod, with a single mat and pillow, to the fort, where there was an inextricable confusion going on. We erected a small covering, and with a blazing fire between us we went off to sleep after conversing far into the dreary hours with some Dyaks, who could not understand our bad taste in sleeping here rather than under a roof. At 4 o’clock the bore rolled up, and I had arranged that the force should go on at daylight, but knew that many would try and force out of order, so I awoke my- self, terribly stiff and unwilling to move. Fortunately a kind old Dyak, who had been sitting by me all night keeping my legs out of the fire, to which the sleepy instinct drew them in consequence of the cold, now took compassion on me, and assisted me to rise. Then he walked with me down to my boat, which lay over a long steep muddy bank, and half asleep as I was, in the dark, my first step brought me down with one arm up to my shoulder in mud. In extricating this, I was obliged to strike the other in, and after this style of walking on all fours, I reached the boat, one mass of mud. After dashing into the river I became quite VOL. II. K 130 TEX YEAES IN SARAWAK. awake, and at once pushed on silently, under cover of night, to reach the head of the force. This was about four miles’ pull, and then we stretched out a long rope across the river to prevent any advance until their different turns came, according to order. At 7 ’30 p.m. the Saribus division passed through, then came two Sakarang boats, then the Europeans, and the remainder followed. As long as there were no grave difficulties we pushed on with great speed ; but on arriving at the shallows, the big boat sent from Sarawak for the China- men delayed us so much, that I soon made up my mind to leave her. The crew were at once divided up among the force, who complained sadly at having a lot of Chinamen and Sidi boys placed in their boats, which were already very deep. This delayed us about an hour, and then we pushed on, poling our skim-along crafts over shallow after shallow, as if they were really creatures of life. I am so accustomed to the scene that it has ceased to excite me, but I admire it now as much as ever. We had a great deal of confusion, owing to the fellows wishing to race, and insisting on trying to pass. My temper, generally so amiable, was not parti- cularly well disposed to-day, after the unsuitable rest of last night ; and I blustered and threatened until I was so hoarse I could not find utterance beyond a whisper, and then was obliged to hold my tongue. However, we ASCENT OF BIVEB. 131 got over a deal of ground, and came to in the afternoon at the mouth of Sepak. Now I was satisfied, and com- forted myself by a glorious wallow in clear water, and then betook myself to a cigar, while friend Watson dilated upon his previous achievements against the Dyaks, who were fortified on this very spot, and had chosen a strong position commanding a long reach of the river. In rounding a point at the end of it, while an officious Abang was informing Watson that they would not even see the tail of a dead monkey, much less an enemy, a volley came on them, killing three of their party close to the very Abang, and wounding many others. But shortly after this the enemy ran away. 19 th . — We set off at an early hour, and arrived at Pengirit where Sadgi had stood and been killed. We progressed at great speed this morning, without a hin- drance of any description. There are no signs of an enemy, and the Saribus force are far a-liead and will do their best to communicate with some of their relations, for the purpose of bringing them in before any attack is made. The weather is charmingly dry for the time of year, and the river looks much prettier than when we came here on the previous expedition. The young jungle has since that time sprouted into more pictur- esque shrubs over old farming grounds, which before were only covered with rank yellow lalang grass. 132 TEN TEAKS IN SARA WAX. 20 ih . — After three hours spurt from this spot with our long poles, we arrived at Nangatiga, our old posi- tion in 1858. We commenced immediately to dis- mantle our boats and build langkans ashore, and cleared the centre hill, for the purpose of building a temporary, though strong, stockade, overlooking our position. The wood, principally bamboo, had grown large and thick within the three years of our absence. Our force were mostly in the streams around, employed in making a large clearance in case of surprises at night. The fellows worked well, and each party turned to their several divisions of the labour with a will which saved much trouble. 21st . — This morning our stockade was completed, and the 6-pounder mounted in it, with a strong party told off to remain. The munitions of war were lying by hundreds around my langkan. The 12-pounder gun was in a small canoe, and was to be dragged in it up the Lipat stream as far as possible, when we should have to land it. Towards the afternoon the chiefs of the division gathered around me, and I divided the things out to them — one shot each, or one 12-pounder rocket ; besides this, some carried grape and canister : to the others smaller articles. The most of the powder was taken out also, and stowed carefully in long palm leaves, which are quite waterproof, and capable of being OUR BURDENS. 133 sewn together like a hag. The Chinese were to take some of the smaller boxes, besides a chankole, and a bag of rice : and the Sidi boys merely took their rice and arms. I recommended our sergeant (who had served in the army through the Indian and China cam- paigns) to carry as little as possible ; and the other Europeans distributed their eatables and drinkables to the Dyaks best known to them. The sergeant, how- ever, said he had always been accustomed to carry forty pounds weight while marching, and insisted the next morning on starting with about thirty pounds. We had prepared ourselves with light linen oil cloths for tents, which would keep the rain out, and could be spread in the shortest time with little trouble. I felt comfortable when I saw the ground clear of the muni- tions of war; and, after a very light dinner and one cigar, I went to my pillow thinking of our coming struggle, — of the start in the morning, — and the getting this undisciplined herd of beings into order. We should unavoidably be much separated at first — some having to go by the water with the gun — and our force was to cut off the different points by crossing over the hills, but, if possible, bivouack at night together on the stream. 2 '2nd . — Coffee was brought early, and immediately afterwards preparations were made for dismantling our shed. Most of the articles being put away for carry- 134 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. ing on the backs of the boat’s crew ; they all had as much as they could manage, and the weights were sur- prising for the work that had to be undergone. I por- tioned off some of my strong Dyak horses to carry my things, and was contented with a light minie rifle, eighty rounds of ammunition, my sword, and spy-glass. Re- volvers I had long given up as being useless for such work, as they so continually get out of order, and are never to be depended on. We set off, a strong party leading with the guides ; then came the Chinese party and Sidi boys ; next the Europeans in about the centre of the force, keeping the Chinamen in front to assist them in case of their needing anything. We com- menced, as usual, by getting wet through in wading across the streams several times, and then shot over some points, and got into the same stream on the upper side. After a while we came to stiffer hills with ex- ceedingly slippery paths, and while ascending about the first of them, the sergeant cried out at the weight he was carrying, and said he could not move another step with it. I told one of my Dyak horses to take his load, and promised to make him a present of an extra piece of tobacco ; he was pleased at the thought of the tobacco, and cared no more for this extra weight of thirty pounds than if it had been a pocket-handkerchief : he buckled the haversack on behind his three weeks’ store of food. BEHAVIOUR OF MEX. 135 liis clothing, one 12-pound shot, two 12-pound car- tridges, a heavy sword and spear, my double-barrel gun, and about one hundred rounds in a bamboo, and walked away without a remark. The sergeant said he had never seen such d — d hills and roads in his life before ; India and China marches had been conducted on proper paths, but over these nothing but a monkey could go with any degree of certainty. In descending some of these places looking over the river below, the path was a slide down, some ten or twelve feet broad, and finding it impracticable to walk without slipping down continually, many went delibe- rately upon their seats to save them from falling. My shoes did good service in such places, as by digging the heels in, they effectually kept me from going too fast. We were much detained by the poor .Chinese, who soon showed symptoms of discomfort and fatigue, but kept on manfully. These fat pork-fed men did not show off to advantage in this work, and before we had gone far on the first day's march, I found both Chinese and Sidi boys throwing away their rice to lighten their burthens, and three absolutely sat down and wept like babies by the side of the road. Rain began to pour, and after a sharp spurt to close up with the leaders, we brought up on the remains of a previous encampment, and I directly arranged with Abang Aing to look out for the powder 136 TEN YEAES IN SAEaWAK. in the hands of the Chinamen, as they could not again be depended on for carrying such an important article, and there was great danger of its getting wet. In the evening I arranged to send half the number of China- men back, as they would hereafter only incommode our party, and be worse than useless. I was greatly dis- appointed at their failing, as they were to ensure so many things which Dyaks and natives were wanting in, such as path-making and throwing up earthworks, &c. ; however it proved that Dyaks can only act against Dyaks, and an European class of labourers or artizans would not have even come so far or so well as these Chinamen, barring the weeping, and the Christians would instead have lustily sworn at the whole island of Borneo, and those who brought them to such scenes. I always feel averse to ask an Englishman to accom- pany me in these inland excursions, unless he is well acquainted with the annoyances to be encountered, — mosquitoes, intense heat, sand flies, bad food, wet and cold at night, fatigue in walking steep hills, thirst, which often leads to excess, which again often leads to head-aches, and the many other divers inconveniences which cause even a man hitherto of equable tempera- ment to turn on one who does not suffer, and to use abusive laimuaKe. Travellers have need to be more careful than other people in choosing whom they shall WARNING- TO TRAVELLERS. 137 take with them on perilous enterprises ; the tempers of few will stand in such positions, especially when hunger or thirst nips their internals. A long-tried friendship, and some degree of affection between bands, will be the only safeguard against bad feeling and quarrels. I have often thought that Burke’s unfortunate death from starvation was brought about by some want of manage- ment or experience in his chief assistant. Again, Sir George Grey’s exploration of Australia gives a fair speci- men of the bile and animosity that arise on an empty stomach, which requires a greater degree of moral courage than fighting a dozen battles. We were lodged on some rotten wood, and the night had set in rainy, but sleep soon settled all matters, and a few leaks mattered little. 23 rd . — We were off at our usual time, and the China- men went back rather ashamed of themselves ; but there was no help for it. Two hours’ trudge of the same description as yesterday brought us to steep hills, which we were told led to Sadok, and here the stream was so small that the canoes with the gun and gear could not possibly get beyond this point ; so we came to a halt on the side of a steep ridge, under a piping hot sun. The gun is some way behind, and several hundreds of Sari- bus fellows are labouring awav at it heart and soul. These hills have lately been farmed over, and some of 13S TEX YE AES EX SABaTYAK the jungle 1ms only just been burnt, leaving a black surface without a blade of grass growing. This is an advantage for the work with the gun. We set the Chinamen to clear a path from the top of the ridge (about 400 feet high) to the stream, and it is so steep that we cannot walk down without using our hands. At 5 p.m. the gun arrives, and we set t,o work at once to see what it will say to this ridge. W r e mount it on a field-piece, stretch ropes some 400 feet in length, and about five hundred wild Dyaks lay hold with a yell. I take the shaft with twenty of my men, and the Europeans keep a look-out on the ropes. Yell after yell, and it goes up, although the wheels are immersed in earth nearlv as high as the axles. But what will not flesh and blood overcome ! The gun is at the top of this steep at sunset, ready for the next morning, and Ave take up our abode around it for the night. My boasting assertion is, that if the feat be accomplished, no page in history records a 12-pounder howitzer of 7^ cwt. having been brought, under so many peculiar circumstances, by land, with such paths and Avith such a force, irregu- lar, unpaid, unprincipled — a wild set of devils, over Avhom there can be no real control or discipline ; where the pretext of a bad bird or omen Avould cause their return. And yet they follow willingly and obediently, with feAv exceptions. If I exaggerate the difficulties of LANDING A GUN. 139 the ground, the hills and dales are still in existence, and may be seen and experienced by any inquisitive individual. 24 th . — Our course to-day lay principally along a ridge which had considerable rises and falls, and the gun rolled over and over several times. I had assisted the steering until I felt quite knocked up from the heat of the sun. At length we stopped to rest, having reached a part where the jungle had lately been felled^ the large trunks lying across the only available path, each side of which is almost perpendicular. I pitched my langkan early to-day, and the working party, with the gun, are now carrying it on their shoulders, lashed to a long pole. We hear their yells far in the distance. Sadok is before us, and we have been ascending all day ; but the last steep, to gain the summit of the mountain, is about 1500 feet, and very precipitous, now covered closely with felled trees crossing one another as densely as pos- sible, to prevent our access. Our force are in thousands in every direction, and we now descry the smoke of the land party from Sakarang, on a distant hill-top. The pinnacles of some ten hills are bespotted with hundreds of our fellows, many of whom are keeping well clear of the gun carrying. We must be about 3000 feet above the level of the sea, and are overlooking the lower part of Saribus, and many other rivers below. Rentap 140 TEN TEARS IN SARAWAK. again looks on ns from his eyrie, and the “ talavvak ” (gong) is being tapped, just as on previous occasions. Some of our force have already communicated with the enemy, and they report that the two chiefs, Loyioh and Nanang, send to ask permission to meet me to-morrow. Their fortification is separate from Rentap’s, who would never trust to any large party. It would bring an in- convenient diversity of counsels into his compact circle. We are lodging in young padi fields, just sprouting up, spreading a soft green colour around. Resides this, there is an edible vegetable growing in abundance ; this is served up, mixed with dried prawns and bamboo shoots, and affords a rather agreeable food, both light and wholesome. Our people were plundering padi and husking it, in every direction. They had to leave the gun early for this pursuit, as many came away with scarcely a day’s food, and depending on what they could pick up. There is not much trouble in provisioning such people ; leaves and shoots here and there, a few fish, and a little rice, are fattening and strengthening to them, and they don’t expect to be fed by the Govern- ment. If there had been a little supply of water, I should have been quite happy in this position, which was cool and bracing ; and when a substantial Scotch “ clarty ” coating has attached itself to one’s skin. SUBMISSION OF A DIVISION. 141 there is no further inconvenience felt in the want of a bath. 25 th . — Moved our housing gear on about a mile towards the foot of Sadok, to the place where we had before spent one night. The gun is some distance behind, but in sight. The weather is piercingly hot, and all hands are busy husking padi. Early in the afternoon, Nanang, the head chief, made his appearance, and took his seat amid a large concourse of our people. He tendered his submission, offering to pay down any fine demanded ; and for the sake of humanity, as well as the future of Saribus — for the place now is nearly in ruins for want of peace and trade — I had already re- solved in my own mind, after bringing the gun so far, that we should show sufficient strength and force to receive Nanang’s party upon a permanent and substan- tial understanding, both to save life and guarantee pros- perity. I was anxious to see the people of Saribus back in their own country. I demanded his most valuable property, to the amount of forty rusa jars (400/.), and told him I should keep the whole amount for three years ; at the end of that time, the Government would have the power of detaining whatever amount was con- sidered right, according to custom, as a fine." I wished * The -whole amount -was restoz-ed to Nanang’s party in 1863. 142 TEX YEABS IX SABaWAK. him to remove down the river at once, but lie wisely demurred at this, as lie said, “ We shall not be able to farm this year, and should in consequence be in a state of starvation.” I then gave them three days to give up the jars, and remove from the front of Rentap’s forti- fication, so that we might be able to attack it. And I required to secure Nanang’s jars before I could trust him to be on friendly terms on our rear, in case we did not succeed in taking Rentap’s fort. Nanang then returned, apparently well satisfied ; but he is a quiet, heavy, stolid genius, whom Watson appropriately calls “ Cart-Horse.” Rentap lias also sent offers for peace, but, knowing the man and his ways, I do not place much credit in the sincerity of his peaceful pro- fessions. However, I demanded twelve rusa jars (120/.), and the demolition of his fort, as well as his immediate removal from Sadok. His emissaries then returned to “ Grandfather Rentap,” as we always call him. 2 6th . — The man who ventured into Rentap’s abode yesterday came to me early to say that they had met him for the purpose of trying to bring him to surrender, and pay down the jars, which he can do without any difficulty. These two men had formerly been his fighting cocks, but now had been on friendly terms with us for four years. They informed me he was very surly, and scarcely spoke a word. While in his presence they felt EENTAP’S PERTINACITY. 143 most anxious, fearing he would close his doors and hold them as hostages. They told him there was a gun coming up which was large enough to knock him to pieces. This he would not believe at all, and said he was perfectly aware of the akal (cunning) of the white men, as they had attacked him often before, and failed. This was enough from Rentap ; and the two men de- clared they would not go near his place again in a friendly capacity, as his pathway was so narrow, and approach so small, that they might be murdered and thrown off the precipice without anyone being the wiser. There were no women nor children in his house, and this in itself proved he intended to show opposition. Nanang and Apai Ikum brought their jars in the course of the afternoon, and requested to be permitted to kill two pigs. This was done, and their hearts examined, and found to be very propitious. The one upon our side, they said, was larger and better ; on their heart there was not so great a development. I per- mitted them to perform this ceremony, as I know there is not a greater or more binding mark of good faith in Dyak customs ; but at the same time, I could scarcely listen to such absurd nonsense, particularly now, as one grows impatient. But we are not losing time, for nothing can be done without the gun, and that is coming up 144 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. slowly ; but before nightfall I intend to have it at the foot of the last ascent, in readiness for the last climb to the summit. This afternoon many of our wild young Dyak lads had been on Sadok, had embraced Nanang and his party since the pig -killing, and had been drinking the cup of friendship so freely that some were intoxicated. Rentap has shut himself into hidden, and cut off all communication, while Nanang^s removing away to another part of the mountain. Two hundred men are yelling under the weight of our gun. 21th . — After finishing coffee at an early hour, and expecting to lead a quiet lazy day, as our agreement with Nanang would not be up before to-morrow, I was surprised at hearing a call of Fire ! Fire ! and on looking out, saw the smoke of a house on Sadok. Grandpapa has fired Nanang’s houses, which are now blazing in good earnest. He had evidently been exasperated on finding that the party on his off side were removing their property preparatory to giving up the position. I imme- diately resolved to push on, and we commenced pre- parations. The gun was slung to a long pole, and sixty men were lifting it over these rough places, and many others, ready to relieve, were carrying gear. We halted at the foot of the steep, and I felt that my boast would soon be LOYIOH’S APPEARANCE. 145 realised. Main strength would drag it to the summit, although carrying such a weight further than this point was out of the question, as one could scarcely stand, and the trees were high and low, lying crossways in every direction. While waiting here, a fine handsome young Dyak approached me, /clad in his chawat and a long ' flowing garment, with ornamented head-dress, and his long sword dangling by his side. This I knew imme- diately to be Loyioli, our enemy of yesterday, and friend of to-day. He looked anything but like a con- quered man ; nevertheless his manner was respectful and upright. He carried himself as a warrior chief of the feudal period, standing as straight as a lath, and spoke as if he were receiving a friend or visitor at the threshold of his father’s domains. We talked for some short time, and I thanked heaven I was able to confront him with as active and unfatigued an exterior as him- self, although I must confess not so picturesque a one. We then shook hands in brotherly affection, and he glided away, promising to come and assist in getting the gun up. He embraced three or four Malays on the path, in recollection of boyish days spent together in hunting, deer-snaring, and farming. Loyioh is not how- ever a brave man, although a showy one. His “ cart- horse ” brother Nanang possesses a braver and truer disposition, which has been corrupted by others. But TOL. II. 146 TEX YEARS IN SARAWAK. now we trust to him alone to bring about a friendship between us and them. 13y dint of labour with the ropes we dragged the gun half way up the steep ascent, and left it to proceed to the top, where our tents were arranged on the same spot on which I had previously lain for eight nights in wet and mire. The top was much more cleared now, and Rentap’s fortification was in sight, within long range, but he did not try to molest us in any way. The remainder of Nanang’s village smokes and smoulders, and our party are close around Rentap’s fort,’ but not a man dare attempt that narrow pathway, which has a precipitous fall of a thousand feet on either side. I made an arrangement with some of the young leaders to erect a stockade for our gun as near as they could get it, and fearing fire, the arms, powder, shot, and rockets were being collected and crowded into my abode. After breakfast I pushed the force down again, and went with them myself, leaving AVatson in charge on the mountain. Lovioh came according to agreement, and we worked together like Trojans; and after four hours of terrible work, and covered with mud, we at length lodged the gun close to my shed, and it was almost going over the precipice in another direction. I felt now Rentap was safe in our grasp, and in all probability by this time to- morrow his head would be in a bag. O WE OPEN PIPE. 147 28 th . — I rose at one o’clock, a.ai., and aroused a party of Dyaks to carry the gun up to the stockade under cover of darkn&s. At 430 a.m. we had it in position, and then patiently waited for daylight, at the first peep of which the rocket tube was brought and ammunition arranged. There was a dense mist, and the wind blow- ing a heavy gale, with the clouds sweeping past us, so that we could not discern more than a few yards around. Ren tap’s house was not over 200 yards from us, and we were a living mass of expectation. At 7 - 30 the clouds commenced rising, and as soon as his fortification showed itself, we opened fire and rattled shot and grape through the planking. The rockets could not be used as the wind was blowing too strongly ; there was no return from Rentap’s place, but no one yet dared to approach it. After the seventeenth round our carriage split in two, and I was thinking that we should be in a dilemma for some time at any rate, as any patching was hopeless. However, before five minutes were over, some of our party had crept through an aperture, and they were speedily followed by others, Avho yelled “ victory.” It was a blessing tamv ears. The third time of asking was to be successful. Our first shot went through their port- holes, and killed the principal man watching their gun ; 14S TEX YEARS IX SARAWAK. besides this, there were the remains of three or four others killed, but Rentap had gone, and the sly old fox, I fear, will get away among the holes and corners of this mountain, which no one knows as he does. Bands went immediately in pursuit of him : the property in the house was plundered. I walked through it, when all was in a state of disorder, and looked into Rentap’s room, which was encased in thick planks quite impervious to musket or rifle shots. The house itself was a miserable building, but the stockades were about two feet in thickness, of the hardest wood, and the peppering of bullets administered on previous occasions had not penetrated a third through. In looking from the plat- form, which all Dyaks have for the purpose of drying padi, &*c., a precipice gaped immediately below, so steep and high, that recovery after falling would have been impossible, and death must have followed before reaching the bottom of this abyss. All around the upper part of the hill had been cleared of everything, and a slip had taken place, making it ten times more dangerous than before ; if another of the same dimen- sions had occurred, Rentap and his shell must have gone to the bottom and been dashed to pieces. How a man and his family could have lived for so many years on such a spot is marvellous, and nought but a most determined spirit of resistance could have supported him VICTORIOUS ENTRY.- 149 in such discomfort and danger. My feeling was one of infinite satisfaction in bavins: at length dislodged this old culprit, although we all admired his resolution in having stood so long. The arms he had taken when fighting against Messrs. Brereton and Lee (when the latter was killed in IS 53) were now recovered. And we found a good supply of ammunition and shot, doubtless brought from Mukah. While we were blazing away at him, Nanang and some hundreds of his people, both men and women, were watching in the distance, and anxiously awaiting the result. When the place was taken they exultingly said, “ And if we had held out, we should have shared a similar fate, but now we are safe.” I returned to my shed, and felt as if something of great weight and importance had fallen from me, and a sensation of calm ease remained in its stead. In the afternoon a party of our men collected all the combustibles and ignitable wood and material around Rentap’s house, in the inner side, for the purpose of making a large blaze ; to draw the attention of all the inhabitants to it, we fired the gun off twice at dusk, and set fire to the house ; it made a glorious conflagration upon this conspicuous site, and I was told afterwards that the whole surrounding country witnessed it. At night all was quiet, and already many of our force had 100 TEN YEAB8 IN SABaWAK. commenced to move homewards, so anxious were they about their farms. 29/A. — Messrs. Watson and Lee started with the majority of our party. Cruickshank and myself re- mained for the purpose of making some arrangement for sending back our arms and ammunition, and this we found trying work, for the Dyaks made off as soon as they could ; however, after a good deal of bullying, we managed to get the things carried away. I resolved to leave the brass 12-pounder in the hands ofNanang, who promised faithfully to bring it back in the course of one month, with many of the shot and rockets, but I deprived them of the powder, for fear they might make use of it again. The carriage we knocked to pieces ; I left the gun where it had been fired, and a push might have sent it over the precipice ; however, 1 had confidence in Nanang. Many of his Young ladies came into my langkan this morning, and pretty fair- looking creatures they were. Others were trading on a small scale with some of our people, who, going home so soon, had more provisions than they wanted. The little children played around briskly, though all looked dirty and sallow owing to the unsettled life they had lately been leading. I distributed my stock of provisions and drinkables among them. Nanang and Apai Ikum came to pay me a farewell visit ; they looked THE DESCENT. 161 happy, and we met as true friends this time. I then took a farewell view of the remains of Rentap’s house, which was now reduced to embers, only a few of which were smoking ; fire had soon consumed the seat of this little episode in Sarawak history. I found some of my Mahommedan followers had become very intoxicated ; this was something quite new, and the cold air of the mountain must have been the cause. In the afternoon we prepared to make a start, and found we did not muster over thirty of our people in all. As I was packing my things a snake crawled under my mat, and being surrounded by Sadok Dyaks, I was averse to kill it, knowing most of them entertained some superstitious notions on the subject, but one more sensible than the rest struck it dead, and then told me that Rentap had fined a man about S/. for killing a snake in his own room. Snakes were supposed to possess some mysterious con- nection with Rentap’s forefathers, or the souls of the latter resided in these loathsome creatures. We spiked an iron gun with steel, which had belonged to Nanang, and was marked with an anchor, dated 1515, with some letters on it not legible ; they said his father had captured this gun from the Dutch at Sambas many years ago while on a marauding excursion. The path was very slippery descending, and my friend Fitz hail terrible falls behind me, which seemed to shake the 152 TEX YE AES IX SABaWAK. mountain ; however, on liis muscular and tougli Scotch frame few things could make an impression. We raced the greater part of the way down, wishing to reach the place where we had first landed the gun, before nightfall. We heard the poor hungry dogs howling piteously over their masters’ remains on Sadok, com- mingled with wild jungle cries, uttered by night creatures of various descriptions. This was just as we descended to the stream ; such sounds invariably take place after sunset, and are peculiarly striking in these climates. We hastily put up our covering over some deadish • wood which is to be avoided as a rule, for insects and pestiferous creatures are generally to be found in such localities. After satisfying hunger, for I will not call our meal dinner, while smoking our cigars and chatting, Fitz cried out “ Ular ! ” “ Ular ! ” (snake ! snake !) and on turning round I saw at a distance of about three feet, a savage little wretch standing on its tail, staring Fitz in the face, with its body in sundry twists and twirls, ready to make a spring. Fitz was in a fix, and could not escape ; in an instant more I believe this little creature would have jumped at him. Fortunately he lifted his plaid in front of his face, while I seized a Dvak’s drawn sword lying at my hand, which I dropped on the snake, cutting it into two. In looking at this creature it was only 2^ feet long, with red head and BIYOUACK— SNAKE’S INTRUSION. 153 tail and venomous fangs ; the natives did not know any name for it, but I never saw a more ferocious one before or since. We had little sleep after this event ; rain and the wet trickled down on us, and thoughts of venomous reptiles could not be subdued. I heard several times the quiet moan of the Rimau dahan (branch tiger), which lives chiefly in trees, springs to the ground for his prey, and then is up the tree again in a moment. 30 th . — How heavy was our walk back ! wading and climbing, as in going. Our systems were chilled through last night, but at length we arrived at Nanga- tiga, tired, but well, and thankful that all had termi- nated so satisfactorily. The next evening, after pulling all day, I reached the fort in Saribus, where Watson and Fitz Cruickshank had already arrived, and we drank champagne to the success. I remained one day in Saribus, bidding adieu to all the people, who looked happy and satisfied in their hearts. We fired salutes, and were received at Sakarang with every demonstration of joy and victory. Flags were hoisted, and firing kept up in an irregular way along the village, and tom-toms sounded far away among the surrounding Dyak houses. My home is cozy after the nights spent on the cold sod. I busied myself in attending to an unpleasant business, which always follows an expedition, — I mean, in open- 154 TEN YEAES IN SAEAWAK. ing the door of conciliation, by which those who are inclined to yield may come in and be received on friendly terms ; and in inflicting fines on others who have not felt the blow of a successful enemy, in order that all may equally suffer punishment. The paying of a fine is a proof of being well disposed to Government. Many Saribus Malays have been here for some days, seeking padi. The poor fellows are very badly off this year, and our stock is scarcely sufficient to satisfy the population’s demands. There are yet three months of this hand-to-mouth work before the next harvest will be ripe. They are a strange, exclusive set of people, but with all their unprincipled failings one cannot help liking them, as they possess great energy when rubbed the right way, and are boisterous and jolly, with a great deal of old-fashioned Malay mannerism intermixed with very polished phrases, such as styling each other brother or uncle in conversation ; and in conveying a messsage from an elder they would say, “ Your father wished me to ask you.” But their vernacular is very rough and uncouth, differing from all the other dialects, and turning the soft, liquid Malay tongue into a guttural twang. The principal chief had come to see me. He was a strange character, and as clever and unprincipled a rascal as could be found in any community. No honest man could thrive in Saribus, and he had been sufficiently ARRIVAL AT HOME — SARIBUS MALAYS. 155 dishonest and cunning to steer with moderate success through the hundreds of shallows and straits in which his life had been bound. His proper title was Laxi- mana, but he was invariably styled “ Olak,” which means back water, or eddy ; and his name he richly merited. He was now an old man, and the father of fifteen sons, all of whom were living, grown up, and exceedingly fine-looking fellows. Olak had elephantiasis- in both his legs, which were an enormous size ; and although eighty years old, yet he talks of fresh mar- riages with young women. He was a delightfully agreeable companion to the female sex, who generally numbered three or four nightly in his mosquito curtain. Another peculiarity of this old Mahommedan was his fondness for rearing dogs. He seldom went anywhere without having them around him, and even on his bed. For the Saribus were too independent to care for re- ligious rules and restrictions. He nevertheless has been a clever man in his generation, and during his day the Saribus had been a name dreaded by all the bands on the coast, although expeditions were not commanded by himself, but his contemporary, the Dyak Orang Ivaya Pamancha, Nanang’s father. Olak could stir his Ivainpong with threats, in a storming rage, and make them tremble ; he could pacify the Dyak, with whom it was his policy to keep on the best terms, by telling 156 TEN YE AES IN SAEaWAK stories exaggerated by all kinds of miraculous adven- tures ; and his interminable power of conversation would silence all parties. He mulcted heavily every trader who came within his jurisdiction ; and he had been a dangerous enemy of ours for many years — ripe at any time for intrigue and treachery. Now he talked as much as ever, but his tone was altered. He called me “ son; ” and when sitting in public among many people, he made such a strange request as nearly put me out of countenance. ’When I told him I intended going home at the beginning of next year, he hoped, he said, to live until I again returned. He then asked if I had any things to lend him ; or perhaps, he added, I might have a stray child to give him, in order that he might keep me in remembrance all his life. He begged afterwards for everything he set his eyes on, and I was glad to bid him adieu. We parted, after I had had a long con- versation with his eldest son, who is a fine, quiet, steady fellow, and one, I trust, who will be true to us through life — a better man than his father. CHAPTER IV. Proposed journey — My companions — Aing’s remark — A Cliinaman — The fresh — Trading with profit — Complicated cases — Malay life — First rapid — Dyak agility — Scenery — Dyak dress — Visit from ladies — Ballei — His appearance — A Dyak woman — Proceed in small boats — Polling — Wet skins — Alarm of Dyaks — Taype’s loquacity — The march — Leeches — First bivouac — Slipperiness of way — Sick man — Dyak’s breakfast — Dislike to food — Eawei Hill — Deer disturbed — A miss — A boa constrictor — Fatigue — Leeches — Saribus Dyak — Path spiked — Descent to Katibus stream — Unpleasant wade — Last meal — Sickness — Descent on rafts — Scarcity of provisions — Meet Kanowit people — Eapids — Bakatans — Arrived at Kanowit — Our emaciated condition — Bid farewell to Kanowit — End of cruise — Bid adieu to Dallei — Saribus Dyak’s affliction — Apei Bakir’s wisdom in dreams — Christmas occupation — Humour in Dyak— Death of Malay friend. November, 1861. — Before returning to England, I had one more excursion in view, not for the purpose of making war, or with the intention of making any very definite discovery, but chiefly to see the country, and pass the heads of all the rivers which had been the habitations of our late enemies. We then should prove to them that no country upon this division of Borneo would be beyond reach of an attacking force commanded by Europeans ; and as I intended to pay the Rejang TRACK OF JOURNEY BT LAND AND RIVER FROM SAKARANG TO KANOWIT. MY PROPOSED JOURNEY. 159 river and Kanowit a farewell visit, I purposed making this my route in preference to going round by sea, as had been done heretofore. We should encircle tbe rivers Sakarang and Saribus, Krien, Samanak, &c., and leave their sources far below us. I shall depend on the chiefs of the heads of the Batang Lupar to guide me, who are friendly to us. No European, or even Malay, has ever used this path, and our going over it may be the means of opening a large track of primitive land through which communication may be afterwards kept, and an increase of trade be promoted in the interior. The accompany- ing sketch of the route we intend to take will give a stranger an idea of the labyrinthine intertwining of the rivers in this country. Thirty volunteers go with us, armed and well pro- visioned, and all strong fellows. My younger brother, Stuart, and Fitz accompany me ; and with a moderate stock of provisions we set off on the 20th November. I occupied a boat myself, and my faithful follower Aing with me, along with many of the Saribus people. The two younger ones are together in another boat. We pulled hard all day, without noticing anything in particular. Aing, as he pulled a paddle in the stern and rested every ten minutes to eat sirih and betel nut, or smoke his Chinese pipe, communicated his ideas about several matters respecting the rivers Sakarang and Sari- 1GJ TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. bus. He had mixed much with the Saribus Malays of late, and his news of their feelings was exceedingly satisfactory; but he said, “They are now in a state of fear, and require lenient and kind measures to bring them to be active supporters of the Government, and to give them confidence in a new system.” He added, “ After a man has had his house plundered and burnt, and finds resistance hopeless, it is some time before he again recovers himself sufficiently to build another and a better one.” At 4 p.m. we reached Marup, the leading place for the Chinese gold workers, where there are a few gardener’s houses. These gardens are kept in good order, and the soil is tolerably good, with nice paths about, on which we were glad to stretch our legs. Beyond us stands the grand mountain “ Tiang Laju ” looming in solitary glory, clothed from top to bottom with its primitive apparel. We cooked and dined in a tumble-down place, but it was better than a confined boat. Our dinner consisted of stew and vegetables, and when over, while sipping alcohol and smoking, I watched an old Chinaman, after his day’s labour, crawl deli- berately to his sleeping bench ; then kicking off his shoes, he entered his curtains, pulled a small saucer lamp from one corner, lighted it, then opened an account-book, in which he wrote and made some calcu- lations very silently. Then he reduced his lamp flame, A CHINAMAN. 161 heaved a heavy sigh, as much as to say, “ Another day’s work over,” and now for that short period of Elysium before the body sinks into forgetfulness. He loaded his pipe with opium, sunk his head on the pillow, and, lying on one side, lighted it, drew for about three minutes that soothing and delicious, though dangerous, narcotic. Elis pipe then fell, a breath extinguished the light, and he had already gone into some paradise of Chinese creation. 21s£. — We cooked at daylight and then started, find- ing the river had much swollen in consequence of rain last night. It now runs about four miles an hour, and we hug the bank to make the greater progress. There is little worth noticing. We passed a few landing- places leading to Dyak houses, and saw numerous very plain and badly-dressed women (even for Dyaks), bath- ing, with then- little squalling children kicking about in the water. At length after a severe pull we reached Pantu, which is about eighteen miles from the spot whence we started in the morning. The fresh now was rushing some eight miles an hour in mid-stream, and increasing every minute. An hour after we stopped ; the branches of the trees by the river’s bank were in the water, and the rise is about fifteen feet above the ordi- nary mark. I mounted a hill and viewed the surround- ing scenery, ivhick was principally high mountains and 'VOL. II. M 162 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK lowish undulating land, without the succession of steep liills in every direction, which is found up the Saribus and Sakarang rivers. On stopping for a few minutes at the landing-place of a Dyak house where a trading boat was fastened, I in- quired the price of padi there. The man said, evidently with a grieved expression of countenance, that it w r as 1^- jalors of salt a pasu. Now on calculating the price of salt, the rice would be 4 \ cents a pasu, and it is eagerly selling about half a day further down the river at the mouth of Sakarang for 25 cents per pasu ; so these traders only make 500 per cent, profit on the padi, and this is not unusual. 22 nd and 23 rd . — We left again, finding the river had fallen a few inches towards morning, still it was boiling past ; but by getting higher up, we should more speedily pass the fresh, which generally comes down in the lump, unless the rains be continued. The weather was now fine, and we made about a mile an hour. At mid-day we reached Sukong, which is the landing-place for proceeding to a lake named Suriang, in the Ivapuas jurisdiction, and claimed by the Dutch, who sometimes send their small steamers as far as this lake. Many trivial Dyak cases were brought to me for settlement about division of farming land ; and about quarrels and seizure of goods happening between the Dyaks inlia- PEOEITAELE TEADING — INTEICATE CASES. 163 biting this side and those of the Ivapuas waters, all of whom are of one tribe. The latter are living there in consequence of finding better farming lands. This separation of government causes it to be specially diffi- cult to decide their cases, as one cannot interfere with people living in the vicinity of the Ivapuas, and I only dared recommend the chiefs on the proper course to pursue, and left it to themselves to bring about a settlement. Cases of the kind occur frequently, when correspondence is resorted to with the officials in the Netherlands district lying next to the Sarawak boun- daries, for the purpose of obtaining redress; and however desirous they may be of managing and settling such affairs, yet they are not permitted to do so by their instructions. The consequence is, the correspondence is referred from one place to another, until it is eventually lost or forgotten, and the grievances remain unsettled, to be again doubled and trebled, until a serious sore arises which leads to fighting ; whereas a few words on the spot at the time would have quelled the dispute, and satisfied both parties. The system is to be deplored, for it can’t fail to lead to more and more serious incon- venience, and the want of power in local authorities to settle such questions must deprive them of all beneficial influence, and lead the natives to hold their government in contempt. The bare show of pomp and panoply, 164 TEN YEAES IN SAEaWAK. soldiers and steamers, is not enough, and will only last for the day thereof. It gives no permanent and useful power and knowledge of such peoples as inhabit the endless jungles. I clambered to a roof of a Dyak house near Sukong, and looked in the direction of the lake, and as far as the eye can reach it is a level plain, or there is no rising ground above one hundred feet. The lake is about five hours’ stiffish walk distant, perhaps fourteen miles. There should be a high range of mountains on this tract according to an old Dutch map of Borneo, which is marked with long ranges between every two large rivers ; but as far as my experience has gone, the mountains and hills which are so abundant are single and disconnected in most cases, rising steep from the lower lands, and falling again in the same manner, and there is more flat land here than I have seen in any other part of Borneo ; hence we are in hopes of finding flattish ground for walking on between the head of this river and Katibus. There are some Malays living here collecting rice in tumble-down houses or sheds, and they scarcely deserve that name, for a more wretched-looking spot could not be found within the precincts of a beautiful and rich country. They seem purposely to have chosen the darkest and dreariest spot, with accumulated filth on all MALAY LIFE. 1G5 sides ; what cares the Malay, while no one worries him particularly? A large profit is sure to be gained on his rice, and his muscles and bones do not suffer much. He is almost his own master here, quite so in his own imagination. He may sit and lounge at his plea- sure, watching his accumulating stock, regardless of time. After six months he finds a profit in hand, and it does not matter how long a time has passed, he has lived through it quietly and peaceably, with no work beyond sleeping, smoking, chewing betel nut, and whiling the time away. These pococurante notions are uncommonly sensible and rational ; for why should a man labour when he can mein mein (play) and live on his little? Numbers are scant, and productions are plentiful, and as yet the scientific principle of making “ Multum in parvo,” for the purpose of cramming a prolific popula- tion, has not yet reached their lands ; although per- chance, on some future day, want will brace up the inhabitants to be a more industrious community. The rain came on harder than ever, and the river was rapidly increasing. Fitz and Stuart change their boat for a Dyak one, smaller and faster. We have no enjoy- ment, as the covering has to be kept on, and the mos- quitoes and sand-flies are most plaguing. There is also a dense mist, which won’t even disclose the opposite bank of the river ; so circumstances oblige us to chew 166 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. the cucl of contentment, and our eyes are only enlivened by a book. At mid-day the weather cleared a little, and we pushed on against a sweeping fresh, and after about two hours we reached the rapid Mutan, where we lifted all the things ashore to lighten the boats, and walked over the banks. The waves were running high, and foaming beautifully past over rocks which glistened as smooth as glass under the gushing water. When the boat was empty she was hauled over by long rattans, and one Dyak of our party held her bow. As he skipped from one rock to another, he looked like a baboon, although he was a beautifully-proportioned fellow, about 5 ft. 8 in. in height, thin and straight, with no calf to the leg, which is always a sign of activity in Dyak estimation. He had a grown-up family, and must have been on the wrong side of forty, but yet a stranger might have taken him for twenty-five. All our party were amused with his movements, and his tongue never stopped wagging. We prepared the boats again on the upper side, and pushed on to a Dyak house below Buhi. We took up our quarters ashore, and when dinner was over some of them began with endless old cases, all of which I had heard often before. I nearly despaired of bringing about a settlement. Most of them refer to people having been killed between one river and another, and my object is DYAK AGILITY— RAPIDS. 167 to hold the parties in statu quo to prevent matters be- coming more complicated. I gradually slunk away, and determined in future always to bring some Malay who could palaver the Dyaks away when I had had enough of them. The house was dirty, with bad smells per- vading from pigstyes underneath, but it was just prefer- able to the rolling boat. 24 Hi . — We pulled all day, and in the afternoon stopped on a stony island on which we made our beds, having done about ten miles since the morning. 25 th . — We to-day passed some very beautiful scenery about the rapids and winding turns of the river. The weather still continues hazy, and w'e can’t discern far beyond the river’s banks, which, on our looking back, present the best view. Looking forward is like look- ing up a hill, and with the back view the eye takes more in. The foliage of the old jungle is varied with yellow and white blossoms, which are brighter in con- trast with the thick overhanging haze. We met a few boats, and the crews told us the chiefs were ready to escort us, and had been waiting some days. I am not sufficiently acquainted with these people to take any special interest in them ; they have been shy heretofore, and few had ever been so far as Sakarang until lately, but this visit will be the means of opening a freer com- munication and more extended traffic, and then if we 168 TEX YEAES IN SAEAWAK. can manage to keep them friendly, and to make them refrain from indulging in intertribal warfare, a great point will be gained ; but the latter must not be per- mitted. Friends or no friends, their mouths must be bitted sooner or later, and I am in hopes these people, mustering many thousands, will not require the same amount of scouring out as the Saribus and Sakarangs have undergone. The women of this tribe are very plain, and their costume is far from graceful. Boots of brass wire are attached to their legs from ankle to knee, a scant cloth around the middle, and strings of brass rings, beads, and wires encumber their bodies all the way up to their breasts ; bead bracelets are around the neck, and armlets of brass encircle their wrists to corre- spond with the leggings. This is full dress ; but when in mourning, they cast off these ornaments and use stained rattans around the waist instead, to be replaced by the finery when a head is brought into the country, for gaieties prevail on such occasions. How they can clam- ber hills and mountains, and work at farming, with such a weight attached to their bodies, is a marvel. Several have been drowned in consequence of these weights, when their small boats have swamped. They also sleep in this gaudy paraphernalia, and one has some cause to pity the bed-fellows of these brazen images. Brass wire, as may be supposed, fetches a high price, often VISIT FROM LADIES. 160 more than a hundred-fold its value, while a fowl costs only a few beads. At 5 p.m. we reached the long house of Ubam, who has been a friend for years ; and his people are more civilized than most of the rest, receiving us with a kinder welcome, while the others have seemed quite heedless about their visitors. This was more owing to shyness than any other reason, and the drift reports they gain from the passing trader are rather against than for the white men. 27 th . — Early this morning the ladies of the house paid us a visit, bringing eggs and fowls with them ; they laughed and chatted away without any shyness, though it was the first time any of them had beheld white faces ; and I heard a whisper between themselves, wondering; what colour ive might be under our clothes. In the course of time when we off jackets for the morn- ing bathe, they seemed very satisfied and pleased, and one felt my back to find out whether it was genuinely white or only polished, or perhaps she thought I was an Albino with a skin disease ; however, she said I felt very soft and nice, and asked for some “ obat ” (medi- cine), by which she might obtain a white colour like mine. I went into their house to meet a herd of folks that had assembled, out of respect, to see me. There was little to talk about, and as I should not have another 170 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. opportunity of meeting them, we distributed some beads and tobacco. Towards mid-day we again set off, and now the river was narrowing and becoming more shallow and more difficult of access. My Long “ Lightning ” * had many hard knocks against the pointed rocks on our course. In two hours, during which we never ceased yelling and racing, we arrived at Delok, the habitation of Ballei, who is the principal chief of the whole of these parts. In the course of the afternoon he came and paid me a visit, bringing presents with him. He is a little old man of an uncommon appearance, and his countenance explains his previous character, which has always made him averse to mix with strangers, or even to trade with the lower villages. His features are good ; surly and determined, he rolled his quid of mixtures round and round his cheeks ; he is very quiet, but with an excited manner seldom seen in a Dvak, and he splutters his sentences out helter-skelter. I told him I was glad to meet him in his own country, which I admired very much. Both he and Ubam are to accompany us across, and I tvholly and solely depend upon their wisdom and guidance in such an uninhabited region, where monkeys and wild animals yet run undisturbed by the hand or foot of man. Boat’s name. BALLET— A DYAK WOMAX. 171 One woman came and sat by my side, as if she liad known me for years ; she brought her children, of whom she appeared very proud, and would insist upon handling them close under my nose with all their disgusting slobbering propensities in full play. She informed me she had had ten, and now had grand-children. She seemed quite young herself, and her hair still flowed in long raven tresses. Their figures are not good, and I have not as yet seen a passable looking one among them. The men are stout and strong, with full limbs, and have not bad features ; their noses are certainly much more developed than in most other tribes. They are poor, and have not felt a wish for any superfluous luxuries, generally getting good crops of padi, and ob- taining salt in exchange for it. The land is excellent for farming. They follow the abominable practice of plucking or shaving their eyelashes, which often brings ophthalmia and weakness of eyes. Within a day and a half’s march of this place, I reckon there are about 10,000 souls. 2Slh . — 1 arranged to leave my boat here and take to the small Dyak ones, which are better adapted for the kind of work, merely consisting of a few thin planks tied into a keel of hard wood. They twist and twirl as they are propelled by long poles, and on meeting any great difficulty the boat’s crew jump out and lift them 172 TEN YEARS EN SARAWAK. over ; and now our guides take us in hand, and are very civil and kind. The Maloh country is only two days’ walk from these parts, and is inhabited by a different tribe with other customs and lan^ua^es. As we were bounding along through and over the dangers, I could not help imagining how beautiful it would look under different circumstances. The hills gradually grew steeper, and the stream rapidly became more like a waterfall, with every now and then a deep, dark, still pool. Sharp slippery rocks were on all sides overlapped by pictu- resque herbage of various tints and shades. Our men worked wonderfully, and some of the attitudes of the crews as they jumped over the rapids were very striking. Every muscle was distended, every pole was planted together to hold the boat still and steady until the time came for another spring, and another five feet were gained. A slip of the pole and the man goes flying overboard. Our Malays had met with many slips and capsizes. We were all wet and dripping, and our seat was deposited in about a foot of beautiful cold up-river water, for as we pushed on a-liead the water invariably came over the bows and washed aft ; how- ever, there were no valuables, and I had but one little pocket-book and some cartridges that I cared about. After mid-day we reached a place where the river branches off in two directions, and beyond this point POLING— WET SKINS. 173 there is only one house. None of our party of Malays had been as high up before. This was called Alligators’ Hole. The hills were now very precipitous, and my previous visions of level ground and easy walking were at once dispersed. It was tiresome, cold, shivering work, and I longed to stretch my legs over some of the hills in preference to this cold water method. If the system is to be depended on, I am sure it should in our case have cured all infirmities. At length we came within sight of the house of Apai Jantai, which we shortly found was deserted, as the inhabitants, on seeing our party round the point, had made off for the old jungle on the hills, taking their valuables with them. I despatched a Dyak boat ahead to persuade them to return, and not to fear, as we were friends, and intended sleeping in their house. After waiting half-an-hour at their landing-place, a message came to tell us the people had returned ; and then we went up and found clean mats were spread, and a place made very comfortable for us. It was a better house than we had yet seen, situated on the side of a steep hill about 400 feet from the water, up and down which the stout damsels thought nothing of carry- ing water three and four times a day, besides climbing in other directions to attend to their gardens and various pursuits; but look at their calves, which the steeps 174 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. had developed ! A heavy load of padi, and a little child sitting on the top of it, are a common burden for a young mother. We found these people had run helter-skelter, and many of their things were still lying by the road side; however, they did not now show any signs of fear or palpitation, but spoke at once, as if we were no strangers. The head-man, a little fellow, sat opposite with a quiet plaintive-looking countenance, but intelligent withal. He said, “ If I had known it to be you, it would have been far from my thoughts to have run ; but we are so far away, and never even see a sea- man (Malay), much less a white man.” After we had reclined for a short time, we ascended the hill to take a bird’s-eye view of the scenery. The little running stream ran below us so close that a sling would have hurled a stone far enough to drop in, and yet we must have been 1000 feet above it. Upon the other side of the river rose a mount of similar size and steepness, and over this, I was informed, our path lay. After which, hill over hill and high mountains kept on in close succession. The very sight led one’s thoughts to one’s legs and blow-pipes — would they hold good ? But we resolve to boat it no further, though this stream is navigable two days beyond this point. This evening I had prepared the loquacious Taype to relieve me of the TAYPE’S LOQUACITY. 175 Dyaks when I became tired, and “tipped him the wink ” while sitting after dinner. They told me they had left this river about forty years ago to live in the Maloh country, to which they had been persuaded to go for the sake of obtaining jars and other kinds of valuable property ; but while there, they found that the reality was what had been pic- tured to them, for they were frequently attacked, and lost at different times seventeen of their people, killed by Kayans and Bakatans, as well as most of their pro- perty. They only returned to this country a year and a half ago, and now live in constant alarm of the Kayans and Bakatans. Taype then carried them off to a little distance, and assisted by one or two others, he continued to amuse them till past midnight. He discoursed on steam vessels, and carriages, underground tunnels, big guns, electric telegraphs, and sundry other latter-day discoveries, which brought forth roars of laughter, as he interspersed his small amount of truth with the most far-fetched and imaginative episodes, to make it suitable to the capacities of the Dyaks, who love the mysterious charms of spirits, and would be grieved to think that all below the sun acted steadily and regularly according to fixed laws. They swallow miraculous events with the utmost avidity. 29 th . — We packed up and started off while the 176 TEX YEARS IX SARAWAK. morning was still cool and fresh. Our baggage was not heavy, and we had been longer on our way than I expected, but I thought the distance overland had been exaggerated, and fully expected to do it in four days, as we were strong walkers, and in good training after the Sadok expedition. 'When we arrived at the first summit the sun began to shine hot, and some blew their pipes at this first spurt. We waited here to collect our small gang, and in an hour were fairly on the stretch over a ridge with a path that was very tolerable for these countries. Ere long some of the fellows complained of leeches, which they shook and scratched off their bare legs. I flattered myself I should escape, as my feet were clad in worsted socks and new canvas boots with elastic tops. Towards mid-day we began to descend, and in an hour had reached the Alligators’ Hole, up which branch we had to follow. We stopped here to rest and feed, and then we pushed on at a stirring pace against a strong stream which sometimes reached our waist, and soon wetted the powder. We went on at a tearing rate for two hours and a half, and then thought of encamping on the bank. A hard shower came on, but it could not make us more wet, as we were all drenched through and through. It only lasted a quarter of an hour, and then the sun blazed forth again, and we were glad to dry our clothes and selves on a shingly LEECHES— FIRST BIVOUAC. 177 bedding. Such work stiffens the limbs after the day is over, and brings great soreness about the feet. Stuart and Fitz Cruickshank were without shoes, and I felt anxious about their being able to proceed ; but any alteration was now hopeless, and those who are accus- tomed to go without shoes cannot easily take to wearing them in hard walking without suffering considerably. We were well stocked with Moore’s moist chocolate, a cup of which renovated the man when each day’s work was done. Our first night’s rest was passed tolerably comfortably, as we were well supplied, but our stock of drinkables had been well dipped into by my younger friends, who were at an age fully to enjoy all the luxuries of life. It rained and trickled about us, although our covering was pretty good for such a place. We enjoyed the quiet evening cigar, and gradually sounds grew less. The fire smouldered, and the rush- ing rumbling of the rapid stream soon intermixed its murmuring with my fading thoughts as I fell off into the world of forgetfulness and delightful slumber. 3(h/c — We started at 7 a.m. and walked until 3 p.m.,. with the exception of making one or two short rests. We had tracked the stream the whole time, and been trudging over the most cruelly slippery rocks, mostly with a sprinkling of green moss. At mid-day we left the Alligators’ Hole and entered a branch named Nellap. VOL. II. N ITS TEX YEARS IX SARAWAK The water was exceedingly cold, and we were far from obtaining a healthy perspiration. In the afternoon one of our Malays was taken very ill with colic, and re- quired carrying. He looked very woe -begone and ghastly, and I was obliged to administer some of our precious store of brandy. His complaint, no doubt, arose from fatigue and cramp. We made our night abode, and our fellows were already suffering from very sore feet. That evening, I must confess, I felt as I lay down to rest a gripping sensation of responsibility which kept me awake heavy and melancholy for some hours. The sick man had required another stiff dose of brandy, and if he did not recover, or if more became ill, where was help to be obtained ? I would not have cared if we had had a stock of brandy or laudanum. The latter we did not bring, and the former I was obliged to serve out with a sparing hand. I would have given some large sum for an extra half glass to bring sleep to my eyelids. However, thank God, we were well and strong, saving the feet of my companions. December — Fitz and Stuart almost yelled with pain as they first put their skinned feet in the cold stream. Our patient was up, and seemed all right again after his rest, and I looked forward to getting over the worst part of the journey to-day. We started long before the Dyaks, who are never in a hurry in A PATIENT— DYAK BREAKFAST. 179 setting off. They cook and feed at leisure, and com- mence walking about half-past seven, and the morning meal keeps them going until late in the afternoon • they certainly get over more ground by following this plan ; but few can find appetites at such an early hour, though it is an immense blunder to start without some good substantial food within. We walked for about two hours and a half before we halted on the narrowest little rivulet of the Nellap, which would be the last water we should find on the Batang Lupar side. We had been following this track of watercourse all the morning, and very difficult, wet, and unpleasant work it had been, and now we sat our- selves down for the purpose of eating breakfast, and waiting for the Dyaks. We were in sorry condition to enjoy a breakfast, and the sight of food was offensive. Our condiments were not really bad; we had spiced preserved fowl and dried prawns boiled in bamboos, the latter mixed with the fern vegetable. I could generally make a meal off the latter, but now I found myself wanting gravy-soup or beef essences, and I determined never again to go on such an excursion without the latter viand, so convenient in every way. Soups mixed with rice one can generally swallow, however fatigued, but badly-dressed fowls are my detestation in such excursions. We had no view from here ; the place is ISO TEX YEARS IN' SARAWAK. very dark, and there are cold, large, damp boulders of black rocks surrounding us. What a trip for pleasure ! However, not a word did we utter of sorrow or de- spondence ; but I believe I heard a few unorthodox syllables expressed as some went head over heels down a hard rock. In such a place, while taking such walks as I have mentioned, one cannot be too particular in choosing the men to follow. I had only Titz Cruick- shank, who was “ as hard as nuts,” and could digest any morsel procurable, and my younger brother, who was a powerful walker, and would not hear of being left behind. The Dyaks soon joined us. We then started, and left the stream, to mount a hill ; but it was pleasure to tread on soil after rock, however steep the road might be. There were some remains of a path here, and on the top we even came to some rotten sticks that had enclosed human forms a few years before. This was the Rawei hill, about 800 or 1000 feet high. We took a little over an hour in passing over, and then descended to the Latong stream, and passing from one side to the other somewhat refreshed us, as we went ahead at a great pace ; but scarcely a word was spoken as we passed through this desolate region. We here and there cut off points by walking over steep spurs. This stream was far more beautiful than Alligator’s Hole, anA we found it easier walking with the stream on this TEDIOUS JOUENEY. 181 side than against it on the other. There were such dark -looking, secluded spots, and the line kept swim- ming in my head — “ Where timid deer might stand.” We passed several deer on our path. They seemed scared, and surprised that we should have wandered so far out of our element, and now encroached upon the precincts of their habitations. My gun was too fouled for me to get it loaded, but I made one fruitless attempt, and fired. Aing chased one beautiful young buck, which shook its head, and trotted off without being frightened. At about 3 p.m. we halted at a branch stream, after we had been crossing very rough paths, supposed to have been short cuts ; but the way was so blind as to give our guides considerable trouble. There were indica- tions, they said, of Bakatans having used these paths, but I could not make out more track than even a few deer would leave among leaves and brushwood. We had had already a long and tedious journey over hill and dale, and through watercourses. The weather was favourable ; and after stopping for some time on the sandy bank, Ubam told us there was a renowned deer- ground at a short distance, which we had better make our resting-place for the night, and he begged a few of us to go in front to get a shot at a deer. I went on 1S2 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. with two Dyaks, and stealthily, though quickly, trudged off, crossing over the river continually, in some places very deep, then over steep spurs, until I near despaired of getting to any deer-ground, particularly as I found out Ubam had not seen the place since he was a young man (about forty years ago). I was fast getting tired, as mv rifle was heavy, and walking so as to make no noise is different to trudging at leisure. But the con- tinued answer of “ Only one point more ! ” kept me going. An old white boar had already stared me in the face about ten yards off, and I up gun, but re- collected the proximity of the deer, and the Mahom- medan part of the community with us. The old boar had no idea of making off ; he never budged an inch. And now this was the last point “ positively,” so I looked again to my rifle, and advanced to a small ledge which overlooked a large open muddy ground, with the river winding its course through one end of it. Two young deer trotted slowly past, and I fired both barrels, and missed. I should have been much more surprised if I had struck one, so took it philosophically, though some of the flesh would have been exceedingly bene- ficial to us, as our store was getting very scant, and what we had contained little nourishment. The last mile or two had tired me too much, and rendered my hand cold and shaky. I cast off sword and rifle, and DEER-BOA COXSTRICTOE. 1S3 my boy took tliem to a place near, where we had re- solved to spend the night, and I took a dreary look over this piece of ground, which was literally cut up by the track of deer and pigs. While lounging with two or three fellows around the borders of it, I saw what appeared to be a root which so often runs on the surface of the low lands ; but this somehow riveted my atten- tion, as, on a second look, I saw it was scaly. I then traced it along until, on the other side of some brush- wood covering, I was somewhat startled to see a large boa constrictor’s head, and, having no arms on, I re- ceded a few feet. I had been standing within about three feet of his loathsome body, and if I had been walking at all fast, should doubtless have stepped on him. I now told my fellows to draw their parangs, and go at him behind the head. The first man had a heavy parang as sharp as a razor, and he dealt a strong blow, and, as far as I could see, did not make any impression on the beast, which only writhed its body lazily. Then the other fellows all pitched into him as hard as they could, and after a time his head was off, but a toucher brute I never heard of. He was ch angina; his skin, which accounted for his being in a torpid state. We then stretched him out, and found his length to be exactly eighteen feet. On opening him, we found a large monkey in his stomach ; but he was capable of 1S4 TEX TEAKS IX SARAWAK. mastering even deer and pig, and hence his lodging on this ground. On rejoining Stuart and Fitz, I found them com- plaining bitterly of sore feet and the long walk, and the “ no deer as a recompense. However, I was far too tired to feel any sensibility on the score of a bad shot, and took a last dip before making myself comfortable for the evening. Fortunately, the evening was fine, and the last hour’s sun glimmered through the branches of beautiful trees on to us and the quiet, graveily-bedded river, clear as crystal. The Dyaks were bestirring them- selves to cook the evening meal, and, after chocolate had restored me, I visited them. Their first remark was a good-natured grumble over their pots of rice — “ Ah ! we thought we were going to have deer to eat this evening ! ” Our meal was light and wholesome, with the never- varying ferns and dried prawns in the bamboo ; but our liquor was out, save a few teaspoonfuls of spirits, which I put by for more pressing emergencies. Our party all slept within a small compass, as the stream was supposed to be infested with Antus (Spirits), and was named Latong Antu. It is extraordinary how every stream and creek of the most minute proportions has come by a name ; for I have never yet seen one that the Dyaks do not call by some name or other. FATIGUE-LEECHES. 185 2nd . — Tracked again along the Latong, and through some very small streams and high rocks, over which we clambered, named Karuh, and after leaving these we had some dry-land work, and there arose a sound that we were approaching the Katibus river, which supported hope ; but the path was trying in the extreme. We were led over the sides of very steep hillocks, covered with an entangled and thorny creeper, and often were obliged to crawl along underneath, and then we got scratched and torn unmercifully. After midday we reached the Katibus river, which even here is a large open stream, with extensive gravelly beds scattered about it. On one of them we stopped to take our midday meal, and rest awhile. We merely crossed here, as the rapids are so steep below as to be quite unnavigable even for the smallest boats. I found my shoes and stockings to be quite useless in keeping off leeches ; in fact, no one of the party suffered as I did, as with their naked feet and legs they were visible; but with me these vermin bit from without the stocking, and as they increased in size, their bodies were drawn in, and there they re- mained until I could stop to divest myself of my wet nether garments. I now literally scraped them off, and even the natives around were startled to see the quantity of blood emitted ; but I found I had to retire, as they had attached themselves upwards as far as my arm-pits, 186 TEN YEABS IN SABaWAK. and the most of them were coloured leeches of a b right green hue, which bite more venomously than, the others. I had been insensible to their encroachments while in warm blood. The natives, and especially Dyaks, hold these creatures in great horror, as they have an idea that they are capable of entering the intestines, and eventually killing a person. One man had this idea, and came with a pitiful story about his case. I gave him everything I could think of, and he took, besides my medicine, some tobacco and salt until he vomited profusely. He made himself very ill before he was better, and then told me the Antus had promised that he should recover his health. After our rest we went up a branch of the Katibus named Kalit, and here we found the rocks steeper and more slippery than ever. Those who had bad feet winced over them. At 3 p.m. we stopped for the night, having made a much shorter day’s work than yesterday. AVe were not actually tired, but cold to the very bones, and achy in con- quence ; no perspiration could flow in these shady and dripping regions, and few know the pleasure of that sign of warmth, in which a bathe can be so infinitely enjoyed, and the elasticity of the frame at once renewed. We generally bathe in heavy perspirations in this country ; but do not remain in the water until cold ; — a few dips, and then out, are both pleasurable and healthy. SAEIBUS DYAX. 187 One Saribus Dyak of our party, who had been fined I don’t know how many times for taking beads from any one he met in different directions, was, on this occasion, of invaluable use. He seemed never to tire, and every- thing was placed on his shoulders. A spare, amiable- looking fellow as could be met, and yet every part of his person gave assurance of strength and endurance. He took all the hard work of our party in hand, supply- ing us with fire-wood and water, and watching while the others slept : the first up and the last to rest. Our other friend, the Sakarang Dyak, with the activity of the monkey tribe, had been unwell the whole march, and was walking- along: with a stick, with an attack O O* p on him which would have laid any Christian on his back. I have experienced the kind of sickness, and therefore am able to form an idea of the pain he was suffering ; but he kept up manfully, and gradually began to get better. The attack seldom lasted more than three days. 3rd . — We started with the hope that this would be our last day’s march, and it w r ould certainly end our stock of provisions of every kind, even rice. We were forced to “ move on,” like Jo in “ Bleak House but Jo was not so stiff and achy, nor did he suffer from itchy leech bites. There was more pathway on this side; but to make matters disagreeable, we found it 1S8 TEX TEAKS IX SARAWAK had been thickly spiked by some Dyak enemy many years ago. These were not yet rotten, and the grass had grown sufficiently to make them very blind. The leading Dyaks took a start to pull them up, as only those can who are in the habit of resorting to such schemes of warfare. Already three of our party were hobbling from wounds from these things. The Dyaks call them ranjaus ; they are mostly of bamboo, about six inches long, and sharpened to a point, and, as a band is retiring from an enemy’s country, these are stuck in their wake to prevent any others from pur- suing; they are very simple but dangerous obstacles to those who have bare feet, and would, I believe, if made of hard wood, prove injurious even to a body of cavalry. And now we clambered a hill of 800 feet, named Singyoh, on the other side of which is our destination. Fitz here got wounded, and had to proceed very gin- gerly over the steeps, and succession of ups and downs that lay over our path this day. We pushed on with- out a halt, and at 3.30 p.m. reached the black running Ivatibus stream, our haven of happiness or woe, but at any rate the end of our walk. Now we had to get across it ; and, to make matters short for the purpose of winding-up, my sword and rifle only I gave to a Dyak, and without much thought of difficulty dashed in PATH SPIKED— KATIBUS STREAM. 1S9 breast high, but found the stream the stronger of the two, so I followed it in a slanting direction for the opposite side ; however, I felt myself fast giving way, and to save myself, I seized an old Dyak who was trudging through very carefully. He attempted to shake me off, but it was no go ; I stuck to him like a leech, and we both rolled holus bolus over together, he swearing at me roundly, for he did not know w T ho the troublesome individual was. At last we reached a rapid, where the water was roaring over, though not more than a few inches deep in many places, and fortunately now the Sakarang monkey Dyak dashed in to my assistance, or I do not know what would have become of me ; there was no such thing as getting a footing, and I only got up to tumble down again a little heavier than before. This Dyak, however, fished and pulled me out very much bruised and exhausted ; then he dashed in again and saved some of my garments which were floating away with the stream, and he went to and fro for different things in an astonishing manner. Yet he was only just recovered from an attack of illness. My brother was carried across, and Fitz walked some distance up the river and swam down. After we had collected and sat together on a bed of shingle, the rain poured down heavily, and I produced the last of the brandy, which scarcely ran a teaspoonful each ; but 190 TEX YEAES IX SARAWAK. even that was acceptable. We congratulated ourselves on being at the end of our journey; and with the exception of sore feet, there was little the matter at present. A short allowance of rice this evening, but a kind soul had brought us different vegetables, some jungle palm shoot, Ac., which was bitter ; still the variety was pleasing to our palates. I believe we swallowed a great deal of oue sort or another, irrespective of quality. And now our old experienced Dyak leaders set to work to communicate with the inhabitants many miles below us, and for this purpose rafts were to be made early in the morning. The Batang Lupar and Katibus popula- tion were all related, and the latter had removed here quite recently for the sake of getting new farming lands, but this year they were reported to be very badly off, and in a most unsettled state, in consequence of frequent attacks being made on them by the Kayans. Late in the evening I strolled on the shingly bed, and watched the dark cool stream rattling downward under a beautiful moon and star-lit sky. The excitement of hope and care had now passed, as, however badly off we were, I felt we were now safe, and the people appointed to meet us could not be far distant. At a late hour I lay down, but not to sleep, and only after daylight could get a doze ; then only for a short time, to arise with one LAST MEAL— SICKNESS. 191 of the attacks on me of the same kind that the active Sakarang Dyak had been suffering from all the way across. A little better living would have saved me and others from such ailments, and I again vowed that essence of beef-soup should always be a part of my equipment on every future expedition. 4 th . — The Dyaks set to work to make rafts, and soon had floatable ones, on which they proceeded down the river. I was anxious to accompany them, but they would not hear of taking me on such fragile crafts. All our provisions were now at an end. Late in the even- ing some small boats arrived bringing a little rice. 5 th. — Taype, who went down yesterday, returned this morning, and shortly afterwards we made a start. He reports, that as he was going down the stream he met many of the inhabitants retreating up the river with their goods and chattels, and on meeting his party they turned round in all haste and fled down again. It was some time before he was able to assure them that he was a friend, and they told him a Kayan Balia had been reported, and on that account they were hiding their property up the river, and had no idea of meeting any strange party of “ orang laut ” (sea-men). The inha- bitants of this river are much scattered, and there is little unity amongst them. They have no reliance on their chiefs, and fly like a flock of sheep on hearing of an 192 TEX TEARS EX SARAWAK. enemy. We passed many remains of villages, showing by the clumps of fruit-trees, growing as luxuriously as the jungle vegetation. In an hour we reached the first landing-place, and the inhabitants came out to meet us, not knowing whether we hailed for men, devils, or angels, or from what part we had sprung. They were badly off ; so we did not visit them, as they would have considered it courtesy, according to their established customs, to have presented us with their little, and per- haps all ; besides, my back was aching mercilessly, and I experienced great difficulty in getting into the boat, and was thinking whether the old bone that pained so much, would ever carry me home to England next year, in order to be reset in the mother country. This Katibus river must muster about 10,000 souls; and here is one instance of the rapid increase of inhabitants, as they came here from the Batang Lupar, in which river there are more now than can use the land according to the Dyak method of farming. And these inhabitants seem to be fast clearing every hill in the vicinity of the Katibus river. Just after mid-day, as we flew down with the current, we reached our Malay party from Kanowit, who were as glad to see us as we them, for they were heartily tired of the tedious Avork of hauling their boats over the continued current. My old friend, Abang Ali, was in A BANG ALI — RAPIDS. 193 charge of the party, and had brought twenty boats with him to escort us down. The pinnace had arrived at Kanowit many days before. Our friends Balang and Apai Laja came eagerly to shake our hands, and the fatherly manner of the latter, as soon as he saw that we were pretty well, was very striking : he expressed his opinion candidly, that he thought we had been madmen to take such a walk from the end of the skies and round the world. My companions took up their quarters with Apai Laja, and I entered Abang Ali’s heavier boat, and obtained a young Dyak, named “ Unjup,” as pilot. I had known him before, and he had always been a favourite of mine. We pulled down all day, and before arriving at the most difficult rapids, put into a creek called Nihing, where we spent the night. Some Dyak houses were not far off, and the mountains were steep in the vicinity on all sides. We had yet about fifty miles to do before reaching Kanowit, but this, if matters run smoothly, we shall get over to-morrow, as the current will sweep us down the whole way, and now the rainy season of the north-east monsoon was setting in. Abang Ali made me as snug as he could for the night, and crept up expecting a quiet chat, so much liked by a Malay ; but I was in no humour to talk, and my thoughts resolved themselves internallv. 0>th . — We started at an early hour, and the crew by VOL. II. o 194 TEN YEAES IN SAEaWAK. their observations evidently expected some dangerous work, but thanks to our pilot Unjup, we passed over rapid after rapid without a single mistake ; if one had occurred, I should not have lived to tell the tale, as I did not even sit without the covering, knowing that if we struck or swamped any efforts would be hopeless, however situated. I could not help feeling an exciting sensation in passing over these roaring waters, and at any other time should have better appreciated the gran- deur of the position. Our boat was heavy, but well adapted for standing up under such dangers, and with the exception of two or three places, we took in but little water. The Dyak Unjup was in the bows, and the remainder of the crew of Malays remained silently obe- dient to his directions. We generally drifted to the head of the rapid, when Unjup would stand in front, choose the best and some- times only channel, pointing it out with his paddle to the helmsman, and then would pull with all his strength, keeping the boat’s bow in the proper course, with his flowing uncombed hair flying away behind like the tail of a Welsh pony in full gallop. One place was, I thought, remarkably dangerous, as we had to pass a large rock in the centre of the fall, for which we steered until close to, and then with the force of water and strength of paddle we glanced off, and dashed past DANGER OF THE RAPIDS. 195 within a couple of feet of the hard mass. There was a succession of about ten of these falls, after which they became less steep and further apart, until at last we reached shingly beds very much of the same description as we had passed up the river. This is considered one of the most dangerous rivers, and traders hold it in great awe. Seldom a year passes without many of their boats being broken to pieces in these places, where they are carefully lowered down with ropes. We passed many houses on the river’s bank, and one or tw r o were pointed out as belonging to Bakatans, who have become sufficiently civilised to build habitations, although they ■will be little able to appreciate them for at least a generation to come. They even farm, but after a poor fashion. They cut down the jungle and burn, and then scatter seed, after which they allow it to take its course ; the result is, the padi and tares grow together, and the latter are the more plentiful. Between whiles the Baka- tans resort to their old habits of jungle prowling in search of food, and depend on the sumpit arrow for such game as deer and pigs. Some few of the most luxurious have taken to rice food, and in times of great want have been known to sell their children for this article. This seems their first step towards civilisation. They are dangerous enemies and doubtful friends, pouncing on a foe w T hen and where least expected, or 196 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. secretly using the poisonous arrow from an ambush. Their word, according to all reports, is no more to be trusted than the whistling of the winds ; but it is to be feared they scarcely have fair opportunities for displaying their true characters or bettering their condition, as, wherever they become at all settled, they are shamefully oppressed by the Dyaks, and the consequence is, these wild ones prefer returning to the natural and primitive state of their forefathers, rather than work for the ad- vantage of others. I look on these people as being the aboriginal stock of the population coastwise in this section of the island of Borneo, and their language tends to support the hypothesis. We shortly after mid-day passed the black posts of Balang’s house, which had been burnt by the treacherous attack of the Kayans subsequent to the attack on Kabah. He had now T fortified himself further down the river, and has become a staunch follower of ours ; and I trust one day ere long we may assist and remunerate poor Balang, who has lost so much by becoming our friend. On arriving near his house, Unjup, Balang’s brother, now thought his work of rapid passing was over, and so came aft and sat with me, persuading me, much against my inclination, to call at his house. This I did for a few minutes, and was welcomed by some ancient stout mor- sels of paternity, who were far from interesting ; and as BAKATANS. — ARRIVAL AT KANOWIT. 197 I liad eaten but four harcl-boiled eggs and a few hand- fuls of rice for the last two days, my appetite called loudly for better food at Kanowit, yet twenty miles distant. Late in the evening we arrived, and were sup- plied with every necessary comfort and kindness at Fitz Cruickshank’s hospitable table. 1th and 8th . — I am a mass of aches and pains, and can scarce move, and my poor brother is suffering acutely from his head. Fitz holds up. Our party of natives have felt the fatigue also, and their feet are very sore. The whole party limp about with walking-sticks, to move from one place to another. Kanowit looks beautiful, and the spot is kept in nice order, — no easy matter with natives who are decidedly not of tidy dispositions. 9th . — I was somewhat better, but fearfully emaciated and lantern-jawed, and as weak as I well could be. However, this morning I decided to meet the natives, Dyaks and Malays, to bid them adieu, and say a few last words to satisfy myself, perhaps more than them, before leaving. In an hour I sat among a goodly concourse,, and told them that it was my intention, now the country was somewhat settled and enemies were few, to return, to England to visit my parents and relations, and wished to say good bye, as well as hear and say anything that might be hanging in our hearts unuttered. My first 198 TEN TEARS IN SARAWAK. desire was, that they should never make any pro- miscuous head-hunting excursions ; whoever followed such practices could not be friends of ours. Secondly, that they should abandon the system of fining each other, which had increased to a dangerous extent of late, and had arisen from their avaricious and energetic propensities, and the strong habitually domineering over the weak. As head-hunting declined, these litigious evils increased, but the Government would henceforth stop such customs, as they were contrary to the habits of them forefathers, and must be desisted from in future. Thirdly, Rentap was not to be received as a friend, and whoever did so would become our enemy. Then some words from their side passed in a different tone to mine, as I was too weak to speak beyond a whisper. A spokesman of theirs stood up and vociferated largely, and declared that whoever opposed the Government regu- lations should be considered an outlaw with the tribes. Thieves should be flogged and other culprits fined. And after this gentleman had ended, I begged them one and all to assist and stand by the *Tuan Cruick shank until my return. Then we all shook hands in a most friendly manner, and Stuart and myself were glad to hide our forms in the pinnace, which weighed anchor and pro- ceeded down the river. Tuan, “ Mr. : EMACIATED CONDITION. 129 Farewell, Fitz ! farewell, Rejang ! That both man and place may thrive and prosper as days pass on, is the sincere wish of my heart. This river and country will, ere many years have elapsed, be the principal scene of action in Sarawak territory. Both are well adapted for industrious inhabitants, who could not fail to develop and fertilise it. Stuart proceeded in a delirious state, and suffering from excruciating headaches, to Sarawak ; and I, only a little better, went to Sakarang. On my entry into the fort the people stared speechless at my change of countenance. I may safely say I had little idea what it was before to have a bad headache. There is nothing for it after a few hours but death or delirium. Mine luckily did not last longer than half a day, leaving me so weak for four-and-twenty hours afterwards that I could scarcely stand upright. So ended our cruise — it may be the last. My people said, “ We have followed you long* but we never wish to be taken on such an expedition again.” Perhaps we may not be much the wiser for it ; at any rate, we have not lost anything but health. Passing through such an expanse of country, and learning the localities of so many thousands of the inhabitants, have tended to link them to us, as it is greatly due to fear and shyness that more intercourse does not take place. The difficulty lies in the want of 200 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK resolution to commence in the first instance. When once drawn out by attacks on, or friendly visits to, their haunts, the ice is broken, and the channel of commu- nication and commerce opened. I bade adieu to my followers this afternoon, and old Ballei, whom I looked on as a savage, pure and simple, when I first met him, had played as kind and fatherly a part to us in the whole march across as could have been desired. My heart yearned towards this honest and straightforward Dyak soul. Ilis last words to me were — “ On your arrival from England I shall come and see you ; and if you happen to see anything there that I should like, bring it to me, and don’t be away long.” On bidding Ebam good bye, he said, “ The next excursion we take shall be over in the Kapuas country among the Malohs and Kayans.” This trip I had long had in my mind’s eye, as it would be interest- ing to draw some comparison between them and our Dyaks. The former, I believe, are at a higher stage of civilisation than the latter, and their language is quite different from that of most other tribes. A few evenings after my arrival, while sitting with two Saribus and two Undup Dyaks, Bakir, one of the former, was much afflicted by the death of his wife, and wept several times as he repeated her name, coupled with the sad story of her death. He quite moved me SARI BUS DYAK’S AFFLICTION. 201 to pity, and requested to be allowed to accompany me to Singapore for change of scene. He said, “ If I had been in such a plight some years ago, I should have instantly gone to the jungles in search of heads, and found consolation in avenging the death of my wife ; but now I know it will do me no good, besides, I have heads in abundance, and jars, &c., none of which can alleviate my grief. I look to the white men for every- thing, having followed them so long and known them so intimately. If I return to my house, everything looks wretched. I can’t eat, I can’t talk or sleep ; and if I wander in jungles I still meet my own relations and connections, so I should like even to go as far as England with you, or anywhere, that I may see strange sights.” I was surprised to hear him make me the confidant of his grief, as I have frequently had to curb him for being too forward and high-toned with his people, and generally making use of the name of the Government to support his own ideas of propriety. He wound up by wondering why Alaat Alah (the Almighty) had been so severe upon him. The day following, another party of Saribus came, and Apai (Bakir’s father), an old and true friend, spent some days in my room. In the course of conversation he referred to the wounds of one of his Manok Sabongs (fighting cocks). This lad I had been acquainted with 202 TEX TEAKS EX SARAWAK. for many years, and liis youthful and joyous appearance, coupled with a slight but perfectly symmetrical form, had first attracted my notice. He had received a sad wound in the thigh from a heavy spear while making an attack on an enemy’s house. Owing to neglect, the bone was now mortifying, and his wasted form pro- duced a sad and melancholy contrast to his singular beauty of five years ago. Old Apai Bakir observed, “ Many of my children were wounded while fighting for you, Tuan, and have since died. The enemy’s weapons were sharp and poisonous, and dealt as only Dyaks can against Dyaks. We worked well and suffered much in following you.” This boat’s crew in the course of the day were seized with a severe attack of colic, in consequence of some unwholesome diet, and were now vomiting. A short while afterwards I overheard a discussion amongst them, and when many reasons had been advanced for their sickness, the chief said, “ Children, I will tell you why it is. You know that when we started from Saribus, I told you my feeling was averse to move that day, as my dream was bad and not propitious; and if the boat had been my own, on no account should I have left the landing-place. Another day you had better pay more attention to old men’s dreams.” On the same after- noon a youth of the same crew offered to fire off a gun. WISDOM IN DEEAMS. 203 which no one else would undertake. The gun burst, and sent him head over heels backwards. They sent for me, saying he was dead but when I reached the spot he Avas chattering away at a great pace, and cer- tainly not in any danger. This was the same lad that had half his face cut off on the attack of Kabah. He was generally in some scrape or other. This final calamity was also attributed to the old man’s adverse dreams. In a conversation the day after with Apai Bakir, who was not famous for loquacity as many others are, in answer as to whether himself and people had had good crops this year, he said, “ Yes, all my people are well off this year for padi, because we have paid every attention to the omens of Bertara (God), and appeased the Antus by taking alligators, killing pigs to examine their hearts, and we have judiciously interpreted our dreams. The consequence is a good harvest ; but those who have neglected to do this are still poor, and must pay more attention in future. The fact is,” he added, “ that after the continued attacks made on Saribus, the heavens have fallen in, and require many repairs.” My Christmas-Day was occupied in laying hands upon a few of a ruffianly mob, which had been the dread and danger of this country for some years past. The hornets’ nest is now opened, and the principals are 204 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. lodged in irons. They have been murderers, grave- openers, thieves, housebreakers, and capable of every other crime under the sun. One committed an offence lately which has been a fair casus belli with the whole gang, at the nick of time before my departure, as I dared not leave them in this country. He gave some trouble, and drew his weapon on his captor, who, for- tunately, was only slightly wounded. They are to be banished the country. Before ending this chapter, I must name an amusing occurrence which took place in the Rejang river, and is an instance of the dry humour to be found among the Dyaks. A short while ago, a celebrated Menang, or soothsayer, assembled a large concourse of the chiefs of the tribes, at his house, for the purpose of renewing the names of all his children, who, he declared in presence of these elders, were not properly his own, but w r ere begotten by certain spirits. Tie begged the assembled chiefs to appeal to his wife to confirm his statement. For this reason he desired to call his children by the names of each of these Antus, according to regular order. One of the chiefs of the assembly, who possessed much subdued humour, and did not quite see the fun of having come so many miles at this old Menang’s bid- ding, merely to listen to a foolish false story about his DYAK HUMOUR. 205 family and tlie Antus, pretended, in the midst of the discourse, to faint away, and fell back gasping for breath, kicking his legs spasmodically in the air at the same time. The surrounding party were aghast at this untoward event, and immediately dispersed, leaving the Menang to convey the fainting individual to his boat, and, according to custom, he had to pay six fowls as a punishment for permitting the Antus to cause a man to faint under his roof. The chief who performed this act, for the sake of getting home quickly, with some fowls into the bargain, is named Onggat, and has often since been quizzed about it ; but he was a brave man, and he must have been a bold innovator to treat a solemn Dyak ceremony with contempt. A short time Subsequent to this period, an elderly Malay woman paid me a visit, bringing the melancholy intelligence of her husband’s death, who had been an old and faithful friend for many years, and was trusted to execute many important matters for the Government. The wife’s description of his last moments was truly touching ; and her simple and unostentatious delivery and manner confirmed the entire truth of the statement. About an hour before he breathed his last, he called his relations and slaves together around him, to hear his dying requests. He told them — “ I shall leave you shortly ; and recollect, you ever, one and all, look to the 206 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. Rajah of Sarawak as your protector. Assist and trust him to the utmost of your power ; and, rather than he should suffer, suffer yourselves, and protect him to your death.” He left his wife, child, and slaves to the care of the Government. His debts, he added, were so much, and his property so much. He had four dollars belonging to Government, which he enjoined his wife to pay ; and, finally, giving all his salamat, and sending his tabi * to me, he breathed his last. His appearance since I first knew him, was a picture ; for I never saw so thin a man possess the power that he did. Every outer bone protruded so distinctly that he resembled a walking skeleton, yet his combination of strength and agility was amazing. Compliments. CHAPTER V. 1862. Departure from Sakarang — Mr. Watson takes charge — Remarks by Dyaks — My farewell desire — Singapore — Steamer’s life — Malta — Arrival at borne — Changes — The poorer classes — Comparison be- tween light and dark — Attack by Mi’. B. Brooke on Lanun fleet — Their demolition — The captives — H.M.’s steamers sent too late — Remarks on Lanuns — Governor of Singapore visits Sarawak — Its result — My return to Sarawak — Arrival at Sakarang — Visit to the coast — Uninteresting people — Kayan peace-making — Dress — Bakatan man — The Mukah swings — Change for the better — A sick friend. On the first day of the year I bade adieu to my dwelling and my dear people, after having completed business on hand, and brought the peace with the Kantu tribe to a satisfactory conclusion. Many of them already had appeared in the bazaar to trade, and were bringing beeswax, gutta percha, and other produce in considerable quantities. I had much wished, previous to my departure to England, to recover the remnant of the Undup tribe living as hostages, or, more correctly, slaves, of the Selimban Malay chiefs in Ivapuas waters, but was 208 TEN YEAES IN SAEAWAK unable to take any active measures to ensure a success- ful result; as that river is under the jurisdiction of the Netherlands Government, and any interference in such a quarter would be liable to bring us unpleasantly in con- tact with their officials. A correspondence was opened from Sarawak with the Resident of Pontianak, to obtain his permission for these Undup people Avitli their families to return to Sakarang, from which they had retreated before a poAverful enemy about tAventy years ago, and have since been treated with much severity by the Kapuas Malays. However, the reply to this request was far from satisfactory, and the question Avas deferred “ sine die.” The poor Undups, numbering many hun- dreds, thus are passing their lives in bondage in a strange country. Their relatives have frequently craved my assistance in tears. I left Sakarang and Saribus in perfect confidence in Mr. Watson’s ability to manage affairs during my absence, and felt sure the leading natives would support him to their utmost. Por a few days previously I had conferred with all the Dyak chiefs, and begged them to desist from head-hunting, and prevent their people from running loose as in former times. They spoke Avell, and assured me of their staunch support. On the last day there was a goodly mob around the fort : the octo- genarian Seriff Mullah, the hero of former times, Avas the DEPARTURE FROM SAKARANG. 209 last to bid me farewell, and bis words were, that lie should never see me again, as he was more than eighty years old. Many Dyaks and some Malays accompanied me to Singapore for the first time in their lives. I had nearly completed my tenth year in the country, which I had not left since my first arrival from England ; but now was so weak and pulled down, that I could scarcely stand upright, and the last jungle march had nigh ended the chapter. It was the first time I had been attacked by jungle fever, which pulls at one’s constitution with an iron will, allowing a few days’ respite, only to knock one down again and again repeatedly. My mind also was far from being in an easy con- dition, and little did I care for the prospect of European pleasures, so much thought of and sought after as an Elysium by many living so far away. They are inva- riably found disappointing when England is reached,, notwithstanding the charms of society. An occupation is required for real happiness. The magnet which draws one home, after all, is one’s fond relations. I had often been questioned about them by Dyaks; and on one occasion, when repeating my mother’s name, an old Dyak observed, “ Then do you still bear her in remem- brance ?” At another time when making some observa- tion to a sister who visited me in my Dyak home, a Dyak inquired “ Whether I understood her language ? ” VOL. II. P 210 TEN YEAES IN SAEaWAE. My thoughts dwelt upon my future ; whether I should become so changed as not to be able to endure native society and the monotony of such a life again, or whether I should be married, and so become unfit for rough jungle exposure. But I prayed for renewed health and vigour to return to what I considered was more to me than all else in the world, namely, a successful issue and establishment of the permanent welfare of this people and country, and to witness their affairs on a surer basis than at present. I remained in Sarawak nearly a month suffering from fever ; and in the beginning of February embarked with my jungle companions for Singapore, which we reached after a fine passage. The place had wonderfully in- creased in size since I had last seen it. A house was hired for my party, and many flocked round to see the Dyaks, to look at their peculiar garb and pierced ears, but the latter only possessed small rings, and not the full-dress ones. Even these smaller ones did not pass without insult, as repeatedly I heard complaints of the Chinamen having annoyed the wearers by officiously fingering these appendages ; and one chief remarked, in a good-tempered way, that if a Chinaman had insulted him in such a manner in his own country, he would have been severely fined. Their cars without the rings present a very disagreeable appearance, and many are ; SINGAPORE. 211 jagged and broken. On one occasion in Sarawak, when an out-station officer bad freshly arrived with a few Dyak followers, one. on bringing up his luggage, was met by a party of Europeans lately from England, when a lady suddenly remarked, “ Oh, look at that black man, he has had his ears eaten by rats.” Singapore, although a pretty place, is not a pleasant one for strangers. The hotels are extremely expensive and uncomfortable. The town and harbour possess much interest in the numbers of Easterns one may see roaming about both on land and water ; and to an observer the different casts of features, although there may be little variety of dress, are very distinguishable. The islands of the Archipelago are numerous, each producing inhabitants with peculiarities of their own, although their original stock may have been the same. I accompanied my Dyak friends in drives about the country, showing them the different sights and large buildings, in which they seemed to take much interest, although when any manufacture or architectural beauty was exhibited, their conclusion was summarily expressed, that only the Antus (spirits) could have constructed such articles. I was low-spirited in parting with my com- panions, both of the light and dark colour. I can’t express how inconceivably wretched I felt when confined to a small cabin in a Peninsular and Oriental steamer. It 212 TEN YE AES IN SABaWAK seemed that it would have been far preferable to die quietly in the jungles. We were crowded with passengers joyously returning after as long a sojourn in Eastern countries as my own, with light hearts and heavy purses, mostly Dutch from Batavia, with their families, who had been born and bred there. Some of them were remarkably pretty and ladvlike, and the contrast was not in our favour when they were compared with our own countrywomen, at least in this instance. But men delighted me not, nor women either. Aches seemed to be in every bone, and the intense dislike to speak to any stranger became a downright malady. I was in fact a misanthrope of the blackest die, and sociability and amiability, so de- sirable as a duty aboard ship, were my detestation. This was simply the result of my body’s condition, and I could no more change it than a leopard can his spots. I stopped at Malta to avoid the cold winds of March in our fatherland, and the little military hothouse brought back recollections of the midshipman’s days — the Strada Reale — the rides — operas — billiards — and a hundred other incidents. Then I left for home, landed in South- ampton, and retired to bed, with one of my old jungle attacks of the leg more violently on me than ever. After two days I wended my way westwards and home- wards, to be nursed by those most near and dear ones, ENGLAND. 213 whom I was again to have the delight of seeing. When I recovered my health, riding and operas were my special weaknesses. Of the latter I was always madly fond, and the charm had not even been destroyed in the jungles. The summer was wretchedly wet and hazy, and it seems marvellous that people should ‘come so far to renovate a broken constitution ; but what with the society, good beef, and the damp climate, it is extra- ordinary how soon flesh increases and vigour revives. The cold never gave me a pang, and my clothing, even in winter, was of the same description as the things I brought from Singapore. During my peregrinations westward on horseback I did not fail to observe the poverty-stricken appear- ance and discomfort of a great portion of the English peasantry. Their state is not what one expects to find in high civilisation, yielding so many encouraging and prosperous results. They suffer from the biting cold, dampness, and easterly winds, to a greater extent than in most other lands. Many villages contain honest folks, dwelling in habitations without panes of glass in their windows, the open apertures of which are filled up with old clothes or pieces of wood, depriving the inmates of both air and light. The crumbling condition of these houses too plainly proves a want of proper care and 214 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. attention on the part of the owners ; and the inner apartments are thoroughly devoid of the comforts neces- sary to any happiness in the long evenings when the story, or book, or social converse might be indulged in, to lighten the day’s labour, and sweeten the night’s rest and slumber. Drainage is also sadly required, for the olfactory organs *of passers-by are grievously offended, and the unconsciousness with which the inhabitants endure the pernicious effluvia, makes one feel disgust and pity at their condition ; yet, from these homes are plucked the lion hearts of England. I could not help drawing comparisons between their discomfort and the easy state of many of the Dyalc tribes, furnished with sufficiency for their wants of life. The existence of the latter, in many cases, presents a happier aspect than that of our countrymen. In point of creature comforts the Dyaks certainly have the best of it. Mental capacity is undeveloped in either, except in the latter to a certain extent, where self-government has awakened and strengthened memory and polished speech, by an amazing readiness of mother wit. Can any man look at our poor, and not remark the richness of the soil and the wealth of the squires on the one hand, and the filthy and wretched condition of the poorer classes on the other ? It leads one to think there must be a screw loose somewhere, even in Old England, with her DEGRADED PEASANTRY. — SARAWAK NEWS. 215 thousands of benefits and blessings. May they con- tinue and multiply. In the month of May an attack was made by Mr. Brooke Brooke, Rajah Mudah of Sarawak, upon a fleet of Lanun pirates, off the coast of Bintulu, and the total destruction of the vessels of those villanous marauders was complete. The small Sarawak steamer Rainbow ran down one boat after another, and the severe lesson, it is to be hoped, will inspire fear, and stop their further piratical excursions in these seas. A few men were killed and wounded aboard the steamer, and many were shot in the enemy’s boats, besides those who were drowned. They were laden with captives taken from various places at which they had called. These enterprising voyages are made annually in moderate sized boats, running down to the southward, on the eastern side of Borneo, in the north-east mon- soon, and returning home in the south-west, thereby making a fair wind around the island, describing a circuit of 2000 miles, in the space of about six months. They are the most determined ruffians of these seas, and live scattered about on the islands off the northernmost portion of Borneo, each village turning out its one or two boats to follow upon the expedition. They are nominally Mahomedans, but do not practise the tenets with any regularity ; they have, however, a dread of all 216 TEN YEAES IN SAEaWAK religious Mussulmans, who, when taken captive, are invariably put ashore the first opportunity, after they have been deprived of all earthly goods. There is an amazing amount of activity and enterprise in these fellows, and their voyages are managed with consider- able foresight, though attended with much danger. They make their own charts, marked out with the different islands and villages upon their course, and where they are likely to meet steamers there is a mark of smoke, as a caution not to approach that quarter. Once, and sometimes twice, during these sweeping circuits, they land at uninhabited islands, and haul their boats up for cleaning and repairing. On one occasion, in this situation, a Dutch steamer passed Avhile searching for them, but they dexterously covered their vessels with the branches of trees, and successfully secluded them until the enemy was out of sight. Their principal aim is, not to fight, but to obain as many captives as possible, whom they gamble away and sell at their own convenience ; but when hard pressed they are not deficient in bravery, and will show dogged resolution until the last. This successful destruction of their fleet was attended by the most beneficial results, as the population on the coast, which had only lately been annexed to the Sarawak territory, had for years suffered from their depredations. DEMOLITION OE PIRATES. 217 The summary treatment which their enemy received exalted the Sarawak flag greatly among them, and the inhabitants hailed the little steamer as a Godsend and precious deliverer from these vermin. The enemy lost every boat of a large fleet, and every surviving pirate suffered death, and died without uttering a sigh of repentance. The captives, who had gone through the most excru- ciating tortures, were released, and related their several stories. Some had been taken from the Dutch ter- ritories, and a few were British subjects from Singapore. They had been fed on the worst viands, drunk water more than half salt, had been beaten, chained under the burning sun’s rays, and otherwise maltreated. The year after (1863), a squadron of steamers was sent from China to attack and root out all these pirates ; but after the severe handling they had met with last season, it was not to be expected they would venture out the succeeding year, so the ships came for no purpose except to make a demonstration, and disport the British bunting on the coast, which has been neglected for some years past, and Dutch, French, and Spanish have occupied a much more important position and prominent part in these seas. Only after the buzzing of mosquitoes does slow John Bull disturb himself, and show his back and horns to drive all before 21S TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. him, for the purpose of protecting British commerce. Tormenting creatures fly about with evil reports of his power, and then the old fellow comes in force to bellow' a little and blow his pipes along the coast ; but the birds have generally flown before he arrives. But to revert to the Lanuns, if we may judge by the captive boys, their appearance differs from the -Malayan cast of feature ; they bear a closer resemblance to the Bugis of Celebes than the people of any other country; their language differs slightly from both. EXAMPLE. ENGLISH. MALAY. EUGIS. LA NUN. Root . . Hand . . Face . . Head . . Kaki . . Tangan Mukah . . Kapala . . Kaje . . Lima . . Tima . . Uhi . . . Tapi. Tangan. Balm. Kok. They are a courageous race, and far wilder both in appearance and habits than the inhabitants further south on the island. The lads with us keep together, and work hard ; but there is a dogged sullenness written in their eye which speaks unutterable things. They are favourities with Europeans, and, to all ap- pearances, the attachment is mutual. Such men would make an excellent force in forts or gunboats. It is extraordinary how these marauders always evade THE LAN UNS.— OFFICIAL VISIT. 219 the search of Dutch steamers, which are generally in their vicinity yearly. It is to be expected these Lanun fleets will make another circuit in two or three vears, unless some steps be taken to burn their nests out. The Spaniards are taking measures to drive them clear of their possessions, which they are rapidly extending, and in many places strong fortifications have been erected on the islands off the northern coast. In the month of October of this year the Governor of Singapore paid a visit to Sarawak, for the purpose of ascertaining its capabilities, resources, and its general position with regard to its present government, and to report home the result of his inquiries. This visit gave rise to many fallacious ideas among the native com- munity, and reports ran rife for many months along the coast, that the intention of the British Government was to take possession of the country, when their slaves and religion would cease to be acknowledged as rights. These false reports were principally spread by the old adherents of the Seriff Massahore, who now thought it a suitable time to do mischief and bring disgrace on the present Government, and disturb the inhabitants, with whose unstable and imaginative minds such reports soon found favour. The worst of it is, that they are more easily aroused than pacified. 1863. — I left England in January to return to 220 TEN YEAES IN SAEAWAK Sarawak, and after the usual humble -jumble of a steamer’s life, reached it in less than two months. T\ hat a wonderful change of climate in this short time ! After a few weeks I paid a visit to the coast, calling at my own home at Sakarang, and finding all well. The population turned out and towed my boat for the last thirty miles up the river, receiving me with salutes fired off in the wildest fashion, and in other respects making many demonstrations of good feeling. They were not, however, more glad to welcome me than I was to meet them. They made frequent inquiries of — “ How long have you left England? Did you come in a steamer? Are your parents and relations still living? You have not married ? What is the news from the seas ? ” These were the questions from Dyaks ; but Malays are more reserved, and it is not customary to inquire after a man’s near relations unless you are connected in some way with them. I stopped at a Dyak house on my way to Sakarang, the inmates of which kept me up until a very late hour. They were all old friends, and finding they would not leave me to rest and smoke in peace, I gave them a long account of the wonders of Europe — railways, electric telegraphs, tunnels under mountains and rivers, Blondin’s rope walking, Leotard’s flying ; the revolution of the earth accounting for light and darkness ; the moon’s orbit and phases apparent to RETURN TO SARAWAK. 221 us, and divers otlier mysteries to their imaginative minds. Only one old man offered a remark, and he observed, “ Why, Tuan, if the world goes round we must stand on our heads when we are underneath.” They then enumerated their various tales of the weal or woe that had occurred during my absence. One old man, with a few patriarchal stray hairs on his chin, complained that his daughter had run off with a slave, and the latter was about to be fined. After the last case, which had taken place in the time of an old man’s grandfather, I fairly got tired, and sat quiet, telling them my mouth was quiet, but ears wide open. Shortly after sounds died away, and I slept ; but on awakening at daylight, the same party were sitting in the same positions, still talking. These people looked most natural, and the sound of their language was almost like that of a mother tongue in my ears. Sakarang was prosperous, and trade active. I only remained a few days here, and then sailed along the coast, which is now in an alarmed state in consequence of flying reports being repeated in all directions ; and after making much inquiry, the originator’s name was given to me, who duly met his desert, by being threatened with banishment if he did not immediately undo what he had done. I met the inhabitants of each place, and did all I could to restore confidence ; but 222 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. the people are a sheepish set, and owing to years of oppression from the Brunei Rajahs, they are now not worthy the name of freemen. At Bintulu, which is the furthermost station from Sarawak in the Brunei direction, I met the European Resident, who was living isolated at the mouth of the river ; and, besides his own fortmen, there was not another living soul; but he seemed happy and well contented Avitli his lot. The country was picturesque around this nice river, which rolled past sandy shores to the sea, Avitli an undulating inland of alternate hills and dales. The tops of high mountains Avere to be seen farther off. We proceeded up the river to the village, and arranged that the inhabitants should move to the mouth, Avliich they had previously engaged to do, but had failed in the fulfilment. The appearance of the people did not prepossess one. They Avere a hard-favoured and un- interesting set, caring for little beyond their immediate Avants, Avithout Eastern polish or finish, and their ugli- ness Avas marked, Avitli features so hard, that their countenances seemed to be lieAvn out of granite stone. Their tone Avas, “ We care not so long as Ave are un- molested, and have enough to eat.” This no doubt aatis a sensible and natural feeling, but a little extra interest in their superiors Avould have created more sympathy. THE COAST.— UNINTERESTING PEOPLE. A fine young Kayan chief sat near me, an independent- looking fellow, and head of a long house many miles further inland. One of the inhabitants lodged a com- plaint against this young fellow for having killed two of his people about a year ago, and asked me whether he might demand a fine of the tribe. I gave him per- mission to do so, according to the custom which had been in vogue previous to the country coming into our possession. On inquiring of the young chief if such had really taken place, he said, “ Oh yes ; my brother killed them and took their heads while they were fishing a little way below our house.” He evidently looked on it as a natural consequence, because their heads were required for a Kayan holiday, as wild deer’s flesh might be required to satisfy hunger. There was no use in lecturing or reasoning, and I was not in a position to command, so the matter was permitted to rest. The Fort was only erected at Bintulu last year, and our Government was still in embryo. The trade, which at times is very valuable, depends on these Kayans, who are numerously scattered about the heads of all the neighbouring streams ; and the Malay in- habitants, rather than become their enemies, and so lose trade, far prefer losing occasional heads. They hold the power and courage of the Kayans in great dread. 224 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK I will here mention a few of their customs. Most remarkable is that of making friendship, whereby they are supposed to become sworn allies. The ceremony consists in blood-letting of both bands, after which it is reciprocally swallowed, either in liquid or tobacco-smoke. The same manner of making friendship is mentioned in Burton’s work, and practised by the inhabitants of South Africa. After this matter is consummated, the stranger is designated “ Nian,” or friend ; but it is not desirable to attempt such experiments, as they require a number of presents, and unless one has some ulterior object, it is needless, as no one could ever trust a Kayan’s faith or word. They are false in the extreme, neither proving true friends nor steady enemies, and always committing some acts of treachery upon a weaker tribe. Their names have been extolled preposterously. Mr. Spenser St. John, in his work, frequently mentions having witnessed their depredations among the inland tribes for several hundred miles along the coast. Their dress much resembles that worn by the sea Dyaks, but their ears are pierced with a large hole, through which an animal’s tooth is pushed. In the ears of women there are heavy brass or leaden ornaments attached, and the aperture occasioned by these weights is often large enough for a man’s hand to be passed through. Some of these creatures are not bad-looking in their natural KAYAN PEACE-MAKING.— DEESS. 225 condition, but they pervert the laws of nature to such a liberal extent as to become hideous. Their faces are flat and broad, and many bear a strong likeness to the Chinese ; their eye-brows are shaved, with the lash plucked out, which gives them a staring look devoid of expression. Those who marry Malays cut their ears off short and join the ends, and after a time very little mark is observed. They wear head-dresses in many instances, generally red turbans, and their frock covering is more capacious in drapery than those used by Dyaks. The latter, however, without doubt are the finer looking people and superior in most respects, being braver, more truthful, less treacherous, and more warlike. The evening before I left Bintulu I had been strolling on the sand, and while waiting for the boat to arrive ashore, I entered into conversation with an old man of a party bound to a neighbouring river. He told me he was a Bakatan, had lived for many years among the Dyaks, and had been treated worse than a slave by them — being turned out of one place, then another, until he trusted now, he had at length found a quiet river, as a home where they might be able to use the land and consider it their own property. This old fellow sat on a fallen tree close to me ; he was stone blind, and ob- served, he should like to have the use of his sight a short time, just to see a white man. lie was tattooed YOL. II. Q 226 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. from head to foot, and very dark, but his features were regular and well shapen ; he spoke with a considerable degree of straightforwardness and sense. The quarter of an hour I waited for the boat I felt had been well spent. He told me there were several dialects spoken amongst their branch tribes, and so different in sound as not to be understood bv each other : these are the primitive and furthest removed from civilisation, many not living in houses, but in trees; — not farming, but roaming about from one spot to another for game to live on. There are no means of holding any communi- cation with them, as such people are as timid as jungle deer, and as subtle as tigers in the use of their poisonous arrows. On my way back I called at Mukah and met the inhabitants, who are a better-looking set than at Bintulu ; their clothing was more civilised, and they did not appear such an astute set of people. I clasped one old man's arm after the conference was ended, and said, “ Gilin, we are not enemies now.” He replied, “ And why should we ever be? ” I then pulled up the branch-river, and viewed the old spot on which we had lodged when the Governor of Labuan arrived to stop our proceedings. A considerable change had taken place since that time, although the people had been disturbed with a momentary panic, the result of false reports. As we were passing down we THE MUKAH SWINGS.— IMPROVEMENT. 227 saw many swings erected, and large numbers congre- gated around them, who were swinging and yelling with every demonstration of light-heartedness and freedom. I watched them for some time, and felt an inclination to join in the amusement ; but it is somewhat dangerous, and too close to very hot humanity to be agreeable. These swings consist of a stout single rattan, attached to a high derrick, having guys to keep it from swaying to and fro; the end of the rattan has a loop within a few feet of the ground ; a ladder is erected at the distance at which the end of the rattan describes its circle. A man then takes the loop up the steps, places his foot in it, and swings off from the top of the ladder, holding by his hands to the rattan. On its returning, another man jumps from the ladder on the swing, sometimes two at a time ; and this goes on time after time, until there are as many as ten or twelve swinging together, clinging on by each other’s arms or legs. While in this position they strike up a monotonous dirge, beseeching the spirits for a plentiful harvest of sagu and fruit, and a successful fishing season. They often get bad falls during this amusement. Late in the evening I bade adieu to the Resident, Mr. Hay, who has been stationed at Mukah for some years, and has been very successful in his management of the people, producing happiness and industry among them, 228 TEN YE AES IN SARAWAK. and gaining their confidence and affection. At night we sailed. Two days afterwards, we entered the small stream of Sibuyau, on an exhilarating cool morning, when it would have been sinful to feel otherwise than profoundly grateful for every blessing. The village itself is wretched in the extreme, and fast becoming depopulated, as the people are returning to their old countries from which they had fled in troublesome times after the Mukah disasters ; but the scenery, as we entered, with distant mountains looming far above the dense haze, was very imposing. A few islets bedotted the bay, indistinctly visible through a steamy moisture arising from the water, as the sun, clear and resplendent, first appeared above the horizon. I settled some trivial cases here, and saw some old friends ; but my principal one came aboard in a sad state. He was so fallen away that I scarcely recognised him ; his frame was in a most emaciated condition, with his face much swollen. I did what I thought best, by administering a little calomel, and had hope of his reco- very if he would only trust to my advice and a strong natural constitution. They are a superstitious lot, and don’t prize any drug unless it be covered with myste- rious passes, with numberless instructions of how to take it, in what position, and what incantation to re- peat when looking at it. They can’t set a value or A SICK FRIEND. 229 trust on anything, unless it is connected in some measure with the supernatural ; and if I had only told this man that the angel Gabriel had sent it to me in a dream, that it was a certain cure, for which he had to pay so much, and every time before going to bed he must stand on his head without the aid of his hands, — then he would have relied with the utmost confidence on the medicine, and upon myself as a doctor, and if it failed the blame would have been attributed to his in- ability to stand on his head in an effectual manner. This man had been a hard-working and industrious fellow. His wife had been killed by Dyaks, and his daughter taken captive ; and I pitied him from my heart, as he had been my first friend at Lingga ten years ago. CHAPTER VI. 1863. Kayan expedition — Consultation with chiefs — Depredations — Prepara- tions — Start — Peculiarities of natives — Feelings — Omens — Decrease of observance — Birds — Effects of ominous signs — Advance — Dilatoriness of Dyaks — Sickness — Kaluka — People— Beports — Apprehension — Entrance of Eejang river — Distance — Inhabitants — Arrival at Kanowit — Preparation of arms, &c. — Kendezvous — Boats — Building of boats — Steele’s opinion — Custom — Start — Katibus — Enemies and friends — Confusion of force — Native nature — Insolent message — Balleh stream — Bakatans and Ukits — Aim of arrows — Bees — Appearance and capabilities of country — Chinese — Our rendezvous — Beautiful sight — Dyak con- ference — Balang’s discourse — Skylarking — Ascent of rapids — The ropes — Activity of men — Dry rocks — Destruction of boats — Few accidents — Jungle flowers — Hard rock — Boat sinks — Duck- ing — Entry to Fitz’s boat — Dispersion of crew— Dyak sympathy — Kum Nipa’s first abode — Steele’s visit — Dyak’s element — Graveyards and monumental pillars — Death by torture — Bees continue — Kayan treachery — Wonderful escape — Healthiness of force — Kum Nipa’s second abode — Uncertainty of enemy — Scent of enemy — Long house — News — Sight of enemy — Confusion — Preparation of arms — Panic and noise — Flight of enemy — Plunder of house — Flames — Advance — Destruction to property — Fresh increasing — Majawah — Kajamans and Kayans — Yong- hang — Chief — Father and son — Accomplishments — Fresh con- tinues — Advance — Gorge — J ok’s performance — Smooth and troubled water — Sharper rocks — Man killed — Trial of speed and strength — Smashing of boats — Makun rapid — Its dangers — Loss of boat — Wonderful escapes — Boatless Europeans — Dangers past KAY AN EXPEDITION. 231 — Dastardly cowardice of enemy — Captives taken — Cultivation — Natural fortification — Captive — Our descent — Yonghangand Eum Nipa — Prefixes to names — Rapidity of descent — A ten-feet jump — Description of tiibes — Customs — Appearance — Strange Bakatans — Return to Sakarang — Difficulties with Dyaks — Arrival of Kayans — Wish for friendship — Conference — Heads of ICalci and Talip — Balang’s punishment — Atrocious practice — His behaviour — Captive hoys — Kayan peace — Representations — Peace — Outside and inside — Balias — Injurious effect of — Rejang river — Its importance — Government — Sakarang — Restoration of Saribus goods — Reforms passed — The last murderer — His execution — — Appearance — Heroic end. Ax attack on the Kayan country Lad been for some time past in contemplation, and was deferred last year in consequence of the season being too far advanced, and the people very badly off for provisions. In arranging the preliminaries of such an undertaking, to decide whether the attack was to be made or not, I felt the pulse of the people by making inquiries of five or six chiefs only, and in this case did so while at Saka- rang. They gave me positive assurances that the Govern- ment should organise an attack as soon as possible, as the Kayans every year were becoming more troublesome and dangerous. They remarked, “ You see, we are yet young and strong ; but there is no saying rvhat we may be next year ; and as the Kayans have to be attacked, let us do it at once, and have done with it.” Mr. Cruickshank, the Resident of Rejang, had fre- quently sent letters complaining of the depredations and havoc they were committing yearly on our Dyaks and 232 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. trade. Ransacking tlie interior of their country was the only effectual method of bringing them to their senses, for they have never yet seen a force more powerful than themselves, and no attacking party, except Dyaks, had heretofore encroached upon the confines of their country. Six weeks was the time allowed for the population to complete their farming, prepare boats, and provision for two months — to furnish axes, arms, and other needfuls, requisite for such an undertaking up river and inland. We were busily employed making cartridges and re- pairing gear and boats. May 19 th . — The two heavy guns were fired at sunset, as a preparatory signal for the final start in the morning. I had written letters to Sarawak and England, and for the sixth time made my will, and was now anxious to be off. There were many natives very apprehensive in their minds about the success of the coming attack, and they were extremely fearful of sickness in penetrating so far inland. Abang Aing, prince of caution, care, and prudence, requested me to supply him with a roll of white cloth as grave-clothes, in order to perform the last obsequies to those who should remain behind. I had sent word to Watson to await our arrival at Kabong, and my brother had already proceeded to Kanowit, accompanied by Sergeant Lees, in charge of guns, PREPARATIONS.— START. 233 rockets, muskets, and ammunition, to the amount of several thousand rounds. 20th . — The boat was launched, the two guns again fired off with heaviest of cartridges, and at mid-day we started. My crew were mostly old followers and ser- vants who had been with me for years. Our boat was in very perfect order, well painted, and decorated with flags ; for nothing tells so much as pride instilled and esprit de corps encouraged in the minds of the people. My fellows, however, had been dilatory in making a start. The last farewell and good wish given to the wife and family, the lord and master marches from his house with due decorum, stepping carefully to avoid any approach to a trip or fall, as bad consequences would then be predicted. The Mahomedans (Malays) permit no kissing and embracing in public, but their expres- sions of farewell are much the same as with us. Oh 1 happy man that I am to be able to leave, or return without rendering tumultuous changes in the breast of any, except perchance my dog or cat “ may whine in vain.” Some of our party of Dyaks had proceeded, but most were yet behind, and will be sweeping down for the next week or more. Many go through the form of their forefathers in listening to the sounds of omens ; but the ceremony now is very curtailed, compared with what it 234 TEN TEAKS IN SAKAWAK. was a few years ago, when I have known a chief live in a hut for six weeks, partly waiting for the twittering of birds to be in a proper direction, and partly detained by his followers. Besides, the whole way in advancing, their dreams are religiously interpreted and adhered to ; but, as in all such matters, interpretations are liable to a double construction. The finale is, that inclination, or often fear, is most powerful. A fearful heart pro- duces a disagreeable dream, or a bad omen in imagined sounds from bird or deer ; and this always makes a force return. But tliev often loiter about so long, that the enemy gains intelligence of their intended attack, and is on the alert. However absurdly these omens lead the human race, they steadily continue to follow and believe in such practices. Faith predominates and hugs huge wonders, and tenaciously lives in the minds of the igno- rant. Some of the Dyaks are somewhat shaken in the belief in hereditary omens, and a few follow the Malay custom of using a particular day, which has a strange effect on European imaginations. The white man who commands the force is supposed to have an express bird and lucky charm to guide him onwards ; and to these the Dvaks trust considerably. “You are our bird, we follow you.” I well know the names, and can dis- tinguish the sounds of their birds, and the different hands on which the good and bad omens are interpreted. PECULIARITIES OF NATIVES.— OMENS. 235 The effect of these signs on myself was often very marked ; and no Dyak could feel an adverse omen more than myself when away in the jungles, surrounded by these superstitious people. Still I could sympathise with the multitude ; and the difficulty lay in the question, whether my influence would be sufficient to counteract such phantoms. It must not be thought that I ever attempted to lead the Dyaks to believe that I was an owner of charms or such absurdities, which could not have lasted beyond a season, and could never be success- ful for a length of time. My desire was always to extinguish such an idea ; but natives persisted in their belief. A Maia's (orang utan) head was hanging in my room, and this they thought to be my director to suc- cessful expeditions. 21$£. — We stopped to-day at Lingga, and I visited Banting for a few hours. There was little eagerness displayed by these Dyaks to follow the force. They are a strange and stubborn lot, and the only way to deal with them is to leave them very nearly to their own devices ; after they have accused everyone of stupidity and want of forethought, except the right party (them- selves), they find themselves much behindhand, and have extra hard work to overtake the force. The Bant- ings, however, have their redeeming qualities ; they are braver than most of the other tribes, and are truehearted, 236 TEN YEAES IN SABaWAK. but quarrelsome and troublesome in all expeditions. I believe it principally arises from their looking on them- selves as the right-hand men in war proceedings ; and as they have always been on friendly terms with the white men, they have escaped being attacked and burnt out. 22nd . — We proceeded as far as the Si Ludam stream, accompanied by only a few boats. The Dyaks were already suffering severely from sickness ; six men in a boat next to mine were groaning with pains of colic, besides others who had been stung by the poisonous fish on the mud. Of course they all requested medi- cine. Nearly two bottles of brandy and a quantity of laudanum were finished this afternoon. I felt this to be rather early in the day for ailments — almost before we were out of sight of our river. The next morning we stopped at Kabong, a sandy spit which lies at the mouth of the Kaluka river. Here we found about forty large boats, and many Malays. Watson had just gone on towards Kanowit with another forty boats from Saribus. The Kaluka district had been shamefully governed from time immemorial, and as yet this place has derived few reforms from the supe- rior Government of Sarawak ; in fact, to pass reforms while the country is still in the possession of Malay rulers, is to little purpose, as the latter are not capable SICKNESS.— KALUKA. 237 of benefiting by them. New blood is sadly required in this place before any beneficial change can be wrought, as the population, without being vicious, is weak, and has no reliance upon their own regime, nor any con- fidence that they could successfully imitate others. The consequence is, that there are continual alarms and false reports. And now the Malays hastened on board with a cock-and-bull story that the Kayans had removed to some impregnable fastnesses. This was told me by an officious old Nakodali, who was desirous of returning to his wives. I sent him to his boat with a flea in his ear, and informed him he should have the honour of leading the attack if his story proved true. There were also many nice quiet fellows among the inha- bitants, who talked very sensibly ; but all allowed that considerable apprehension was felt for the success of such a distant undertaking, against tribes whom they had been bred up to fear as the most powerful of all populations. 24 th . — We were off at about 7'30 a.m. with a follow- ing of sixty boats, each averaging forty men. It was a fine morning, with only a ripple caused by a fresh land- breeze ; but one cannot be otherwise than anxious when pulling along the coast with only three inches of dry planking above water. However, we reached the mouth of Niabur, and there entered a creek leading to the 238 TEN YEAES IN SAEAWAK. Rejang river just in time, for the sea-breeze was com- mencing, and the surf had already shown white on an outstretching point of sand. Some of the larger boats went round by sea, and we all reached the rendezvous together for cooking at mid-day, but found there was little or no drinking-water, as all that remained in this dry season had been mixed with the tubar root for poisoning fish ; so we only rested to eat boiled rice, and again pushed on through the creeks. This was puzzling navigation, and people often lose themselves for days in such places. Most of these rivers are about two hun- dred yards broad, and to all appearance deep, with the Nip a palm and mangrove abounding on the banks. At 3 p.m. we came out in the Rejang river, which is more than a mile in breadth. The tide was in our favour, and we pushed on to Sarikei, where there were some huts of people who had lately taken up their abode here. This place was burnt down, as before mentioned, in 1859, subsequent to the murders of Messrs. Fox and Steele at Kanowit. We had made fifty miles to-day with paddles alone. Sarikei is twenty-six miles from the mouth of Rejang. 25 tli . — We started before 4 a.m. this morning, and reached the remains of an old village, which was an extremely muddy locality. The late Malay chief of this place had given us much trouble some years ago, and ENTRANCE OF REJANG RIYER. 239 was killed in a fray with the Dyaks in 1861 . I be- lieve no one regretted to hear of his death. After cooking here, the tide slackened for flood, when we again proceeded. A broad reach — in fact, some say the main river — runs to our left to Bruit, which is a small village on the coast ; the channel is narrow, and not deep. Hour after hour our fellows pulled, and at one o’clock reached Sibu, which is half-way to Kanowit from Sarikei. We were now above the Nipah palms, and the jungle trees came close to the water’s-edge, denoting a drier soil and the absence of salt water, with only a swampiness on the surface. The river continues the same size and depth, and contains some islands interspersed between winding channels, and this some- what breaks the monotony of the landscape. There is one long house situated here, populated by a branch of the Kanowit people. They are a poor-looking set, and their chief was put to death for having taken a part in the murders of Messrs. Fox and Steele — Jani by name, and mentioned repeatedly through this work. ITis son now came to pay his respects. He promises to be a good subject ; but little dependence is to be placed on such weak beings, unless a strict supervision be kept over them, and then they are happy while intrigues are prevented. There is no reason why they should not be contented with their lot, as they have more free- 240 TEX YEAES IN SARAWAK. dom and greater opportunities of improving their con- dition now than they ever had before. Their boats were ready, and will follow us to-morrow. The weather was fine, without a cloud. What luck ! or, as Dyaks would say, “ A good bird ! ” We rested here and bathed, the water being fresh and cool. There was an enormous tree, that answered the purpose of a landing-place : it must have been eighteen feet in cir- cumference; and when our boat’s crew of twenty-two men were on it, there was little perceptible difference in its floating qualities. My Lingga head fortman and steersman had been unwell for some time past, and was now so seriously ill that he raved in delirium. He lay close to me, and appealed to my name not to be angry with him, and asked assistance ; then he repeated bits of the Koran, and then spoke most affectionately of his wife. Our boat was too limited in room to carry a sick man com- fortably, and he was a heavy, strong fellow ; so I called the crew together, to push on to Kanowit (distant forty miles) to-night, just as a beautiful sun descended behind the jungles, without a cloud upon its brilliancy. We shoved off, and the crew opened the covering, and sang and pulled against a current, strong in some places, passing island after island, with a young moon over our heads. We stopped for a few minutes every now and POISONOUS PLANT.— D YAK IMPROVISATORS. 241 then to rest, but were obliged to be careful as we held to the banks, as a very poisonous leaf named rangas grows thickly at the water’s-edge, and if touched, throws out a most venomous juice, which causes the face to swell, and closes up the eyes for several days. I have witnessed several cases, and have experienced it once myself. While walking one day, I chopped off a twig from the bush with a long sword, and within ten minutes I was not able to discern anything, my eyes being quite closed up ; but bathing in hot water cured them in a few hours. One man in our crew was a character. He could mimic, or talk and sing for any length of time, and must have been gifted with a wonderfully retentive memory, for he recounted adventure after adventure of the many expeditions, bringing in the different names of persons and places, and what the former said and did. He managed to introduce the names in rhyme in a most absurd manner. This amuse- ment he kept up for five hours, keeping the boat’s crew awake, and pulling hard himself all the time. We arrived at Ivanowit at 2 a.m. My boat’s crew were very fatigued, and I was weary of sitting in this small boat. We had done a hundred miles in fifteen hours, not including stoppages, and the greater part of the way against current, which could not VOL. II. R 242 TEX YEARS EX SARAWAK. have been running less than a mile and a half per hour. At da)’liglit (25/7^) our force had congregated about the village and on either bank of the river, which was so broad that thousands of boats would not have made much show. After having coffee, I commenced work with Sergeant Lees in examining all the stores, arms, and ammunition. The heavy guns and shot had already been dispatched by the Kanowit and Ivatibus boats, which were now two days’ start ahead of us. Their name was legion, and they would not be again seen before ob- stacles ahead stopped their advance. I had previously arranged that the foot of the first rapids should be the rendezvous, and the enemy were reported to be six days distant above this point, provided it continued dry weather ; if wet, we should not be able to stir onwards. It took the greater part of to-day distributing arms, ammunition, and sundry other things to be carried by the force. A promiscuous crowd, containing the sounds of many languages, was for ever around us ; each boat’s crew wished for some things ; many had already dam- aged their provisions, and begged for a new supply ; some were sick and required medicine ; and every soul requested that universal heart -inspirer — tobacco. We had brought a large supply of it purposely to divide among them, as they smoke and chew to a great extent, EAX 0 WIT. — PBEPAEATION OF ARMS. 243 and doubtless the blessed weed does them much good. In the evening quiet was restored, and to-morrow w r as to be a resting-day before making a final start. Our Europeans of the party were Messrs. Watson, Cruick- skank, my younger brother, Sergeant Lees, and Lucas, of the “ Venus.” 2 6th . — The principal natives persuaded me to remain over to-day, or I should have pushed on to lose no time • in this fine weather. They require time to settle many little matters with which they are particular. Some made their wills, others sent letters to their nearest relatives, acquainting them with their last wishes ; and all our boats required much preparation. The one prepared for me, into winch I had to shift all my things, was sixty-six feet long, shaped like a coffin, and totally devoid of all elegance or beauty. She consisted of a single tree hol- lowed out, and round at the bottom, but raised a little at her extremities. Many trees split w 7 hile undergoing the twisting, and the w T ood requires to be peculiarly tough to stand the hacking in the centre. When the hollow- ing out is done, a bow and stern-piece are fastened with rattans ; they have not a nail in them ; two light planks are also tied on to the top, and then they are complete. Some have much speed, anil are capable of carrying from forty to seventy men, with a month’s provision aboard. They are adapted for passing the rapids and other 244 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. impediments, but twist and twirl to a great extent in being hauled over difficult places. They are buoyant, however, in the falls, and the crews are able to use a long, sweeping stroke with their paddles, which could not be managed in shorter boats. The Dyak bangkongs are of very different construc- tion, and much more complicated and graceful, but they are also fastened with rattans. My crew had brought our long coffin alongside, and after many facetious . remarks on her appearance, the tilings were put in order. This work was soon completed, and our old boat was laid carefully on the bank. I was glad to save her from the up-river hardships, out of which the chances are ten to one against her coming with a sound rib on her side. I will say no more about Kanowit, with its tumble-down fort, as it has appeared so often in the previous pages under different phases in troublesome times ; in fact, the place had been the scene of chapters of accidents for years, where murders and atrocities had been committed in every reach. To recount half of them would fill volumes ; and the cause of its having been so dangerous a locality, is, that there are so many branch streamlets leading into the interior among head-hunters. These byeways were thoroughfares for head-hunting parties, who could march from their far inland abodes, build boats and proceed in various directions by water, THE RENDEZVOUS.— BOATS. 245 decapitate a few, and then, in these labyrinthine creeks evade the pursuit of the most vigilant. This work, however, is now fast declining, and ere many months promiscuous head-hunting will be nil ; but watchfulness and severity upon every occasion of its breaking out must continue steadily, and the population in time will doubtless seek for other occupations. But their argument has been heretofore, “ What matters it how many people we kill — it is the custom of our fore- fathers ? They may have been in fault, but we are not.” I distinctly recollect that Mr. Steele, who was murdered here, and had been in the country longer than any other European, and was acquainted with the languages like his own tongue, expressed his opinion that the custom of head-hunting would not be abolished until the present generation had become extinct. So far as the mere custom of valuation of heads, probably that will be the case, or even longer ; but the custom is of little conse- quence, so long as the promiscuous cold-blooded cutting off of innocent traders and other unfortunates can be prevented. Prevention will eventually lead to cure. The taking of heads, and the way in which they are prized in legitimate warfare, are not so far removed from some of the barbarous acts of European nations in war- fare only a short time ago. The habit itself must in due course die a natural death. 246 TEN YE AES IN SARAWAK. A circumstance worthy of remark is the "rass here, and also in many other places — the technical name for which I do not know. It is excellent pasturage, and nourishing for cattle, possessing double seed-pods and succulent stalks. Natives tell me this grass has made its appearance since the arrival of white men ; hence it derives its name, “ white men’s grass.” Dyaks say it has spread for a hundred miles up their streams, and is increasing fast. Some call it “ Devil’s grass,” in conse- quence of the difficulty in farming over ground once covered by it ; scarcely ever do they make an attempt to do so. I take it, white men can’t be the actual cause of a new grass growing ; but believe that by the importa- tion of cattle, so lately introduced into Sarawak, the grass has sprouted on the most favourable spots, although, perhaps, a hundred miles away from where cattle are kept. In Sarawak there is little of this kind of grass to be found, as the soil is too poor; but the seed has flown to distant parts, and fructified in places where the soil has been better adapted for its reception.* 29 th . — As the fort clock struck eight, a gun was fired as a signal for starting, and about eighty boats left together; others had been going on during the night, * Another theory is that the seed is imported in beer casks, packed Trith dry grass from India. THE START. 247 and many were still behind. The current ran strong against us, and we were forced to ling the bank, so we commenced by racing to obtain the nearest and slackest water. My crew soon complained of the contrast between my present and old boat ; this one requires a tower of strength to propel her. The hills above Kanowit are steep, and Kanowit itself may be said to be the first pretty spot in the Rejang river ; but above it there is much variety of scenery, for the most part consisting of the windings of the river, and hills and hillocks of all shapes. Many fruit-trees are scattered over them. Under the thick haze of the morning the river presented a brown tinge, and the large trees on the bank were a deep purple, which combined with our long lines of white covered boats threading their way, with gay flags and waving pendants, would have made a beautiful picture. There are no very sharp turns in this river, and the true bearing of our course has been as near east as possible, as far as I could judge by the compass. We made thirty miles to-day; stopped at 5.30 p.m., just below the mouth of Katibus stream. We had felt no perceptible flood in our favour, but the current was slack in the afternoon, being influenced by the flood below us, and the water rose some seven feet on the banks. 30 th . — Advanced a little after seven, when the crews 248 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. had taken their first meal ; passed the mouth of the Katibus, which is the furthest point I have hitherto ascended in this river. The river narrows a little in places, but still is a navigable and noble stream. The hills, instead of becoming higher and steeper, decrease in size, and the land is more undulating, with a vege- tation luxurious to the wildest extent. We passed a few of the Dvak farming-grounds, which had been abandoned for the last two or three years, in conse- quence of the attacks made by the Kayans ; and these intermediate inhabitants had the choice of becoming their friends and our enemies, or our friends and their enemies. They chose the latter course, and congregated more closely further down the river ; after which the mouth of the Katibus was fortified. Above was con- sidered enemy’s ground, all below, our own. Our force is a living mass of confusion, spread like a herd of wild, migrating animals, forcing their way onward against a slow and regular reflux stream, running about two miles per hour. The crossing and recrossing of the river to get into slack water under the points was the part most fatiguing for the crews. We passed some small streams both yesterday and to-day, leading far into the interior, and navigable for boats for days ; but as they are mostly uninhabited, the mention of their names is useless. Such branches, ENEMIES AND FRIENDS. 249 however, as the Ivatibus, and those larger and more important, are worthy of being noted. No Englishman had ever ascended the first rapids except Mr. Steele, who was considered a guest of the Kayan chief (Kum Nipa), our present enemy. Mr. Steele became “ Nian,” and swallowed the particle of Kayan vitality, the digestion of which is supposed to produce a mutual sympathy of hearts and affection, as before described. Other Europeans have also tried the same experiment ; and the Kayans have been favoured and flattered by many visiting parties, who considered them a fine spirited set of heroes. This policy has had a most deleterious effect, as of late they have been received as friends in one direction while perpetrating acts of hostility on our people in another. This could not last, and it is the safest plan to relinquish the thought of trade, &c., until it can be obtained on some sure footing, for sooner or later such a people must be punished. Their nature requires a master, and until they have felt the power of one, this knowledge cannot be instilled into them. They prove a happier and better community afterwards. The old maxim, “ A stitch in time saves nine,” is true in such a case. For the last two years they had been sending the most offensive messages. One chief said he intended making an attack on the Kanowit fort ; but that arms would be 250 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. unnecessary, as he could kick it to pieces (bertumit). Such expressions, perhaps, were of little consequence; but I was loath to forget or forgive them. We had progressed in an easterly direction again to-day, making some twenty miles. The river is about ten feet below its ordinary height ; there has been no more feeling of flood, and the stream, about two knots per hour, could never be less than it is now. So far fortune favours us. 31^. — Advanced again at 7 a.m. The river gra- dually became narrower, but yet I looked on it as navigable, as there were no signs of rocks, and the water is dark, flowing smoothly. After an hour and a half we reached the Balleli stream on our right hand, running up in south-south-easterly direction, leading into the interior of the island. It is uninhabited, and said to be navigable in boats for some days. I con- clude that the head of this stream leads towards the Banger Masin, which empties itself to the southward of the island. The Dyaks inform me there are roving Bakatans, or Ukits, generally to be found about the banks, in most cases in search for wild animals, which, report says, abound up this stream. But the Ukits are on friendly terms with the Ivayans, and take every opportunity of supplying them with the heads of people, obtained from parties in search for gutta-percha, or BAKATANS AND UKITS. 251 other wild productions, for trade. In exchange for these heads they get rice and sago. The Dyaks hold these wild Ukits in much awe, as they say, “We can never see or get near them, and we cannot resist an enemy like a bird that blows an arrow from a tree upon us.” We were all warned to keep clear of the left bank, as the Avild men frequent those localities, and can use their poisonous arrows for forty yards with fatal precision. I believe myself they bear a strong affinity to the Jakoons of the interior of Malacca. On one occasion, years ago, I witnessed a surprising shot from the latter, with exactly the same description of weapon — an arrow and blowpipe ; similar, also, to those described by Bates in South America. At the distance of fifteen yards a Jakoon penetrated a single crow-quill with his arrow. This was carried home by the doctor of the ship to which I then belonged. The keenest sight was required to even discern such an object at that distance. These Bakatans are not cannibals, but depend entirely on the production of the wilderness for the staples of life. There will be much difficulty in gaining any influence over such a people, and it is to be feared they will decrease even to extermination, rather than adapt themselves to civilised modes. This river is not navigable above the Balleh stream. There a change takes place in the appearance of objects. 252 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. The banks are interspersed with rude crags and boulders of rock, and the water runs violently through in many places, becoming more dangerous, with grander scenery. Hard work now commenced, though less wearisome than the continual pull against the slow-paced current. We stopped to cut sticks for stockade, and stretched our legs on a pebbly bank, while the boats underwent prepara- tions for the up-river difficulties. Numerous bees swarmed about us, which caused some alarm at first ; but we found them harmless, unless tormented. One of our party was stung after having struck at them. As we advanced, we met one boat returning with a wounded man, who had fallen overboard on to a sharp snag, which ran into his back, making a fearful wound. Nothing could be done but to send him home, where he shortly afterwards died. There has been not much variety in scenery, the land being undulating and clothed with a rich untouched vegetation. If there ever should be a large influx of Chinese agriculturists, this -would be a most desirable locality for them. It is a country which they would develope by opening out a communication by roads to other places. Besides, the great advantage consists in the river being navigable for large vessels, and in the event of the Chinamen becoming troublesome and re- bellious, an attack could easily be made upon them, THE FOOT OF LOWER RAPID. APPEARANCE AND CAPABILITIES OF COUNTRY. 253 and communication cut off from the coast on which the supply of opium and other articles would depend. This would effectually curb their unruliness. We halted on a rocky flat for the night — an unplea- sant place, but there was no choice. The stratification was standing vertically, and must have been washed down by the torrents of water in the course of ages. Our European boats assembled together at night, but we saw little of each other, and generally messed sepa- rately, as, with such a large force, any accident might take place and cause a separation. Our course had been north-east. The reaches had been shorter and sharper in turns, and we made fifteen miles. June 1st . — After coffee, and the cold bathe, — the latter required some presence of mind to undergo in early morning, — we again set forth. Every day brings a perceptible difference in the atmosphere as we ascend the river ; but the bathe is part of one’s duty, for it makes the man, by clearing all sleepy heaviness from the brain. Rough towels are desirable to assist circula- tion, and then one feels set up. We had hardish work, and the crews strained every sinew to overcome many of the sluices, which pour through the gorges. After three horns we reached the foot of the first rapids, and here we found all our headmost force gathered in thousands, and a scene of activity and life which I 254 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. should find it difficidt to describe. Groups of Dyaks were in all directions — some lounging on rocks, or patches of white sand in the bights, others mending their boats, which they had hauled up in the most favourable places. Many were squatting round fires and cooking. Bright colours of clothes, flags, painted boats, &c., were interspersed among them; among the latter were some beautiful models arranged with every mark of regularity and neatness. Dyaks gazing or watching naturally place themselves in graceful attitudes, and arrange their cloth around their shoulders, as a High- lander his plaid. I especially remarked these lithe, upright and pliable figures which a sculptor might have coveted, combining slim grace with great muscular development ; and this is really required for such work as they undergo in this country, which without doubt is the most difficult to travel over. The heart often leaps to the mouth in surmounting these acclivities, and I feel convinced the natural healthiness of the climate alone carries one through such extreme toil. It had been previously arranged that the rendezvous was to be here, and after this point I wished to pro- ceed in some order. The Baum (conference) was to be held this afternoon. There is some formality always shown in such a council, and it is right there should be ; for it is a weighty matter to decide on the order of STRIKING SCENE.— CONFERENCE. 255 battle array, and of advance through an enemy’s country. The consequences altogether depend on the manage- ment displayed ; besides, if these meetings be not regularly held, and the different parties questioned and consulted, the force would soon lose confidence, and become dissatisfied. At 3'30 p.m., the assembly was collected on the hard stones. All such matters, as before related, are discussed on the earth and without any roof. About a hundred or more chiefs were present, squatting in a circle, when I joined, accompanied by Fitz Cruickshank, and we sat in the centre. Then a silence ensued, and I told them that, as far as we were able, we must now arrange the proceedings and order of the “balla.” After naming the different tribes, or divisions, to advance one after another, I begged that all would keep order, and not rush on or run unnecessary risks ; as if they allowed their people to push past dangerous places, accidents must happen. Another point which I had always made known with great emphasis was, that the chiefs must be answerable for the behaviour of their crew, to allow no quarrelling or fighting. And the lives of women and children must be spared, as ilmj could not be the enemies of men. The first man to speak after I had finished was Balang of Katibus, who was an ugly little broad man, with the jowl of a hog. lie had sparkling 25G TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. eyes, and was dressed in all tlie colours of the rainbow. The Kayans had burnt his house, and taken all his property. He spoke exceedingly well, and I wished from my heart my speech could have been so telling. He said — “ I have no wish to return if the force is not successful, and am prepared to stake everything on this attack. The enemy has deprived me of all my property already, and many of my relations and people have been killed ; they may now cook my head, if I can’t get theirs.” He added, “ The chiefs, as the Tuan says, should be responsible for their people ; and I recommend others to follow my example, and beat their followers if they refuse to obey orders.” Orang Kaya Gassing, of Sakarang, spoke a little, and then a general conversation ensued upon their feelings, dreams, birds, and omens. All was of a satisfactory nature — very different from what the tone had been some years ago, for they are gradually lessening these outward signs of mystery and paying more atten- tion to realities. We then dispersed. In the after- noon I pulled in a small canoe, to inspect the beginning of the rapids. At eventide our people were assembled on a large pebbly bed, engaged in all kinds of games, amidst shouts of laughter. The moon was bright and clear, giving sufficient light to read moderate-sized print. Sword dances, with shields, were going on. DYAK SWOED DANCE. Each tribe has a peculiar step and code of its own, but as an attack and defence in earnest they all seem to be equally ridiculous. However, in the event of an opponent using a shield, I feel convinced an European could not stand against them, as they are able to crouch their body entirely behind it, and can spring immediately from such an attitude without losing their balance. But, without a shield, a man with a rapier would be more than a match for any of them, unless, as is possible, a heavy Dyak weapon were to cut a light sword in two. This, however, no dexterous fencer would be likely to allow, and after the first blow from a heavy weapon had fallen, the opponent would be at the mercy of a light swordsman. These games continued in all directions ; voices chattering merrily among groups of thousands. I thought of the next morning’s work, and betook myself to rest at a moderately early hour, but the people carried on till past midnight, when I sent a messenger to remind them of the work of the morning, and shortly afterwards they were in their nests. I heard to-day of two or three deaths having occurred from sickness, but otherwise the force appeared much more healthy than was at first expected. I rose between 3 and 4 a.m., and surveyed the great mass of people. Not a voice was to be heard ; some fires on the other VOL. II. S 258 TEX YEAES IN SARAWAK side were still smouldering, but the only sounds to be beard were those of nature alone, — the murmuring of the jungle insects, the low rumbling of the distant rapids, and the stream pouring over the pebbles close to us. The boats’ kajangs showed white by the moon’s light. The river is broad here, with a stream running northerly on the right bank. Gravelly beds and large boulders are scattered here and there, over which water rushes in the rainy season. We have found a quantity of anthra- cite coal here in different places, and when we first stopped I was surprised to see the smoke of coal fires, lighted by the Dyaks in many spots. We could not ascertain in what direction the seam lay, but I believe it would be found in many of the surrounding hills. Some of our force looked aghast at the rocky steeps a-head of us, and I only trusted to the impetus of the body to carry them onward. Their inclination already was de- cidedly to turn back. Before my leaving, many had conjectured that the expedition would experience very hard and dangerous work, and that a fruitless wild goose chase would be the only result. June 2nd . — I rose at break of day, and started in a small sampan with three men for the foot of the rapids, leaving directions with our party to follow when they had finished their first meal. I heard a rumbling and rolling of movement but no voice raised, as many were ASCENT OF KAPIDS. 259 already silently creeping away to get the start of the others. Our force consists of about three hundred large boats, averaging over forty men in each ; besides a large portion are still behind, and will be coming up for a week or more. I perched myself on a ridge of rocks, and found there were already assembled a dense line of boats rattling together in the ripple, but those solid gates were a most effectual stop for the herd. Our leading men, who were well accustomed to such places, were past the first difficulties, but only one boat at a , time could haul over by long rattans, which had been preparing at the different stopping-places : two a-liead and one astern were required. I found a few Sakarang boats were quietly breaking through rules, and were out of station, so stones were pitched at them, and I pointed my rifle, which sent their crews right and left, and pre- vented their advancing farther. At 7 a.m., before the sun had penetrated the haze of the morning, which is always densest and coolest in the hottest season, the European boats advanced, and were now preparing for opposing the rush of water. No coverings could be kept on the boats, and all the crews had clear working room. Our coffin-shaped trough bunks on the tops of the boats, 6 feet long by 3 feet broad, were conspicuous by their elevation above the crew, whose numbers in hard work produce an unplea- 260 TEX TEAKS IX SAEaVTAK. sant effluvia if one be housed on the same level with them. I had already bellowed myself as hoarse as a crow, and now enjoyed the sight. It was grand in the extreme. The crews with long poles in their hands were mostly standing in their boats. Those advancing were vociferating and plunging into the stream, up the slippery rocks with the ropes often held in their mouths, sometimes round their necks. No man could escape working in this busy scene, and everybody enjoyed the excitement. A snap of the rope in such a place is cer- tain destruction to the boat, and perhaps to the crew . too. Our crafts at length passed on. Men seemed like ducks in the water, and the most active now became conspicuous. Swimmers and divers all had their duties ; the amount of exertion of this kind which the natives will undergo is simply wonderful. They keep it up hour after hour in the coldest mountain stream, jumping in and over places where Englishmen could not stand, as the rocks were as slippery as glass, and many of the ridges were not over three inches wide, without a hold- fast of any sort, making one giddy to look at them. After the first difficulty was past, there are a few fathoms of smooth in a basin on the top of the first ledge, unless in the rainy season, when all would be covered and no boat could advance against it. We crossed over, passing between two islands, surrounded DESTRUCTION OF BOATS. 261 by massive rocks, with a little vegetation growing on them. Our ropes were again and again »taken out to haul over the minor difficulties, while our companions a-head and astern were getting over the major ones. The work was exhilarating, and all were merry. Then we came to a perpendicular fall over ten feet which was impassable, and here we commenced to unload for a dry rock encounter. Provisions, arms, ammunition, &c., were carried by land, and the boats hauled over some sixty feet of a steep rocky incline. The crews assisted one another, creating a deafening sound. The din of bah, bah, bah, and yelfs, even drowned the sound of the cascade. Work was nevertheless joyfully surmounted, and how it was done little mattered. Many boats went to pieces here, and the crews divided among the others. After reaching the top, we continued using the ropes for five hours, until we reached another dry ledge, when the paraphernalia were again handed out, and boats again hauled over. This last ivas a terrific job, and at every foot gained I thought my coffin would have gone in two, as she cracked and creaked piteously. But at last we gained the summit of the first rapids. Here we stopped, as the crews required rest, and the sun was piercingly hot. These native boats, although buoyant, are extremely heavy, and can stand an extraordinary amount of bump- ing about. The thickness of the wood is not less than 262 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. three inches in many parts. While hauling over the dry steeps, I sauntered up a beautiful fall of water upon a hill side, and there sat down on a rock, over which poured a cascade, away from the clamour of the voices. The vegetation grew in festoons on many jungle trunks, which were bending, half fallen, over the ravine, evi- dently having been driven into such positions by the torrents of water ; these trees were mostly* covered with creepers, many of which were in full bloom. Here I rattled off my last edition of Trovatore, but the singing of the water was by far the stronger, and my feeble efforts would not have scared a sparrow. My reverie was soon disturbed by the thought of the Ukit’s poisonous arrows, and quitting this Crusoe- like position, I again joined the multitude. The entire rapid must present a sublime sight in the north-east monsoon, after weeks of rain, instead of weeks of dry, as it is now. The breadth varies from three to six hundred yards. Early in the afternoon we reached an extensive sandy beach, capable of receiving more than a hundred boats. I attempted to prevent any of the force passing us, but found it was simply impossible, and already more than a hundred had advanced. They were suffi- ciently numerous to take care of themselves in case of meeting an enemy. This bay was called Pelaran, and here we congregated and found occupation for the JUNGLE FLOWERS. 263 evening in repairing damages clone by the rocks. Malay carpenters are fortunately plentiful, and there are few who do not possess some knowledge of boat building. In passing the head of the rapid, I observed a very beautiful creeper in full bloom, with large clusters of red flow'ers, somewhat of a bell shape. We could not stop to pick it, as any hindrance to the work in hand is steadily to be avoided. Naturalists must do their work after the path has been cleared of danger. . I sometimes regretted not being able to take an observation, and would have done so had I brought the necessary instru- ments ; but, at the same time, any diversion of the kind is detrimental to an expedition, unless it be done by a supernumerary traveller, for it draws the attention of the people, who imagine that some mysterious interpretation is to be gathered from the sun. Up to this evening I had only heard of two accidents happening. One Dyak boy tumbled overboard in the rapid and was drowned — and one man was seriously injured by the bite of a shark or alligator. It was supposed to be the former. The length of this rapid I reckon to be four miles. No idea can be formed of the number of boats injured, and not one-third of the force have yet commenced to pull over. Some, I expect, will turn back rather than venture. 264 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. Evening set in clear and glorious, while we lounged about, talking to different people. They are always ready for a chat, and were not at all fatigued. We dined, and afterwards on seeing and hearing a large concourse amusing themselves, Fitz and myself joined them. The moon was at its full, and was excessively resplendent on these white sands. We found the fellows trying their skill in jumping, and we also followed their example, but the sands were too heavy. A little of it went a long way. The natives do not, as a ride, excel in this exercise, and few can compete with a moderate white jumper. We had gone a course to day of E.S.E., C miles. Bees have again covered our boats all day ; they are the regular large honey workers. The commotion and noise of voices may have attracted them. They alight on the top in numbers, and even on one’s body. 3rd . — My thirty-fourth birthday, to-day. I de- spatched Taype at an early hour to stay our heroes rushing on, and at 7 a.m. we all started. The stream continues broad, with frequent impediments in the shape of rocky ridges. In crushing through one narrow place we were nearly being swamped, some other boats having jammed themselves inside of us, and a serious altercation arose among the crews. The banks were low, and the hills of gentle inclination. Numerous BOAT SINKS. — ESCAPE. 265 jungle trees were in blossom, that in the light morning air scented the reaches sometimes for miles. After two hours, while we were pulling along close to the bank, followed by Fitz’s boat, we glided past a rock, of which I hailed to apprise him ; but failing to hear me, their boat’s bows dashed against it, bringing her up all standing, and heeling her over considerably. I thought it wonderful she did not sink, but the crew quietly pushed her clear, and the boat proceeded as before. A rocky point was a-head of us, round which was a sluice, and with all strength the crew gave w T ay for the other side. I remarked some broken water, but thought there would be sufficient depth for us to pass over. However, in an instant we went crash against a rock, and there hung for a few seconds. While standing on the top, I saw the bowman thrust, by the impetus, some ten feet away. With paddle in hand, he looked as if he were going to fly, but dropped into the water instead. Then the boat’s crew began to rise, and now I saw we were sinking bows first. So seizing my gold watch and chain I jumped overboard — three or four strokes took me alongside Fitz’s boat, when I should have held com- fortably to the gunwale, if the boat’s crew had not in a most officious manner fisted and dragged me on boaix^ very much as if I had been a bag of potatoes. One pulled at the back of my collar until he had fairly 266 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. deposited me in the centre of the boat, and then looked me in the face, giving a grunt, as much as to say, “ That was a deuce of a pull, was it not ? ” I crawled aft to Fitz and my brother’s abode, and they made me com- fortable. I have to thank them for being so near, and affording me such opportune help. The river was ten fathoms deep, and running a sluice of ten knots per hour. If my swimming qualities had been pressed, I would not have answered for their lasting, and Dyak boats would have been more likely to run over one’s head than otherwise. I somewhat blamed myself for not taking more care, as there was the identical rock visible, and the first old Dyak who came to sympathise, observed “ You must take a pilot in future, for if you run against rocks distinctly showing at mid-day, you may make sundry other mistakes.” My bird, he said, had certainly been in fault that time, and I could not make him understand that on this thirty- fourth birthday, I required an extra baptising. It was unfortunate, as many things had been lost. The most unfortunate loss was that of provisions, as our success depended upon them. Some other things, such as sword, spy-glass, rugs, &c., all new from England, had disappeared, and the Dyaks failed to recover them after spending hours in diving, as the current proved too strong. DISPERSION OF CREW.— SYMPATHY. 267 My crew were now boatless, and had lost most of their things, so we determined on stopping at a large gravelly bed, a short distance above us. Native tents were soon erected, in which we took up our quarters and dried our remaining articles. Fitz and I arranged to proceed hereafter in the same boat, Stuart and Watson in the boat of the latter. My crew dispersed among the fleet. We fortunately had not lost much rice, as the greater part of it had been distributed among the other crews for conveyance. Taype reached my quarters in great excitement, and blamed all equally, and declared no accident would have happened had he been on board. He generally had the pilotage of my boat, and I must give him credit for being able to manage with uncommon skill in these up rivers. He boasted loudly, but allowed his loss had been trivial, consisting of three penangs (betel nuts), three leaves of sirih, a little lime placed in an empty seed found on the bank, an old jacket with only one arm to it, and a pair of old trousers. This emphatic announcement of his missing valuables produced much merriment to the audience. We had only made five miles, about east (I had fortunately saved the compass). We did not move again to-day, as it would have led to bustle and confusion, and our provisions, at any rate the staple food of rice, were abundant. My luxuries 268 TEX YEARS IX SARAWAK. had been lost, and now I shall depend on the liberality of my companions. 4 th . — We advanced again as usual, and after about an hour’s hard work in pulling, and using ropes, the stream became smooth and deep, and no more rocks were in sight. The reaches were long and straight, with a steady stream of 2|- knots. The laud was level without being swampy, and the soil appeared to be a rich yellow loam. What land for agriculture ! and it extends for miles. We reached the remains of Kum Nipa’s house, named “ Sanaa.” The Dyaks made an attack on this village last year, and failed in taking the place, but it had the effect of driving Kum Nipa further up the river. Mr. Steele reached this spot, where he remained several days, being entertained by Kum Nipa, who had for years committed serious injuries on the Rejang trade, in preventing any parties passing down to Ivanowit, without paying a heavy tax upon their cargoes. These sums Kum Nipa deposited in his own treasury. We stopped here a few minutes, and found Balang waiting for us. After some cheerful words, in which he con- gratulated me on my ducking of yesterday, we advanced together. He is an excellent fellow, the first to work and set a good example. His people, numbering about two thousand men, are fine specimens of Dyaks, each KOI NIPA’S HOUSE.— MALAYS AND DYAKS. 269 being nearly equal to two Malays in muscle and weight, for they are taller by some inches, with great develop- ment. One of the chiefs came to me yesterday and complained, “The sea men (Malays) don’t know how to pull, they jerk at their paddles too much to move a boat against a current.” The stroke of these Dyaks is long, their heads are almost bent down to their knees ; besides, they work much more unitedly, whilst the Malays so often stop to smoke, or chew, or chat ; but in many places about here, all must use their strength, or the boat would drift. A Dyak is in his element when on an expedition, and takes a pride in all he does, cooking regularly only twice a day, and feeding all in company, when the rice is divided equally to each man. Balang soon went a-head of us, and the reach before us was over four miles straight, with our string of boats as far as the eye can reach. Not a cloud has appeared ; a glimpse even of one no bigger than a man’s hand would cause me considerable anxiety, as a fresh in these long reaches would occasion much delay and extra work. There is no rumour of an enemy yet, nor do we find a human track on the sands. Those of deer and pig are in abundance. Some say they have seen the spoor of larger animals, but yet I doubt it. We made a north-east course to-day, and have gone fifteen miles. We stop at the mouth of Pila stream on some high 270 TEX YE AES EX SARAWAK sands, off which a number of Dyak boys were amusing themselves by tumbling head-foremost in the water, and playing other bedevilments common with lads. We have passed many grave-yards to-day, having monuments built of wood, hollow inside, and containing the goods of the departed. They are about eighteen feet high, and are ornamentally carved; some were coloured, others merely of billion (iron) wood. The sword, shield, paddle, &c., are carefully placed in readiness for a future life. Another sect of the same tribe bury their dead in ornamental houses of the same hard wood, with handsome decorations. These burial-places are called Saliring and Salong. Those we passed to-day have all been plundered by the previous Dyak expeditions. We halted early to allow the rear division of our force to close. It is terribly scattered, and one boat’s crew, who overtook us by dint of hard pulling, day and night, declares our force to be one long moving line as far as Kanowit. A sad report reached us here, which I had received yesterday, but did not credit. A small boat with a crew of seven men had entered the Balleh stream three days ago for the purpose of killing pigs, which swim across in this season in great numbers. The crew laid down to rest for the night on a gravelly bed in the centre of the stream, and while asleep were surrounded by a party of Kayans who had GEAYE-YAEDS— DEATH BY TOBTUEE. 271 been lying in ainbnsli on tlie banks, and bad come from their country by some overland paths only known to themselves. The poor sleepers were awakened, and tortured by slow degrees to death, after which they were decapitated. The bodies were seen by their relatives, who now bring the report, and are eagerly passing on to the van in search of revenge. It is to be deplored, but yet such events are common among the people of this country. One party escapes while another meets death in places and at times least expected. The bees still hovered about us, thicker than ever. The river here is navigable for a small steamer, running quiet and smooth. 5 th . — Started as usual, and made good way. The river rose a foot last night. A few clouds are visible, but as yet no rain. At 11 a.m. we stopped at Miha, where there are some remains of houses. The inha- bitants (Punans) are gone to live in the Tatau river. A horrible murder was committed here three years ago. Two men who escaped brought the news to Kanowit when I was there. The story was this. In consequence of the Katibus Dyaks having taken part with us after the death of Messrs. Pox and Steele, the Kay an s became their enemies, and made a treacherous attack on them country. While professing friendship they burnt several 272 TEN • YEARS IN SABaWAIv. and plunder, and this while the greater part of the Ivatibus men were absent in the feasting season. Two years subsequent to this event a party of Ivatibus Dyaks, numbering eighteen men, were persuaded by a man named Paring to go on a trading excursion to the Kayan country. The latter was married to a Dyak, but was on friendly terms with the Kayans, and stood re- sponsible for the safe conduct of the whole party. They reached this point, when, by some preconcerted arrange- ment, they were surrounded by Kayans, the principal one being Yonghang, the chief of the head of this river. Eleven of these were at once bound hand and foot, and in the struggle the rest ran into the jungle, and were able, after several days’ swimming, to reach Ivatibus, in a famished condition. Igu, who had been expressly sent among this trading party by Balang to offer terms of peace to the Ivayans, had escaped. The remaining eleven were divided out among Yonghang’s followers, and were carried, on their way up the river, into every house, where they were received with delight, and tortured by the women. On arriving at Yonghang’s abode, one of them named Boyong was singled out to be a victim in the sacrifice for Yonghang’s son, who had lately departed this life. Boyong was to be buried alive under a Salong (a large KAY AN TREACHERY. 273 wooden pillar) early the succeeding morning. Boyong, however, and one of the others, managed to effect their escape that night, ran into the jungle, and found their way, after twenty days’ wandering, to the foot of the first rapids. They were then in such an exhausted con- dition, that to proceed further on foot was impossible ; so they lashed themselves by rattans to a floating log, and drifted down with the stream, and were eventually picked up by a party of Sate Dyaks, living in that vicinity, and conveyed to their own homes. Boyong is now living, and shows the marks about his body where he was tortured by the Kayans. It was over a year after he returned before he recovered his health and strength. The remaining men were all strangled by the Kayans, and Paring ultimately met his fate. He was tried in Kanowit, and sentenced to death for this foul act of treachery ; but when in confinement, awaiting the approval of the sentence from Sarawak, he effected his escape. He was then pursued by the Dyaks, and on his showing fight was cut down. So ended this renowned villain’s career. We passed several burial-grounds again to-day, which produced a pleasing diversity in the natural scenery. This afternoon the hills increased in height, their out- lines becoming more precipitous. Our force continues YOL. II. T 274 TEX YEARS IX SARAWAK. wonderfully healthy, comparatively speaking, few re- quests being made for medicine. Still the work is heavy ; many of the Malays complain they are so sore as to be scarce able to sit down, owing to such con- tinual pulling. It is indeed work that makes our backs ache. We stopped in the afternoon on a shingle bed and cooked, but at dusk were obliged to move into the mouth of a small stream, Sama ulu, on the right bank. Here we staved the night. Balang, while on an expedition two months ago, sur- prised a party of Kayans on this spot. He obtained three heads. The river was swelling fast, and the first drops of rain were felt this afternoon. It soon ran more angrily, and white froth was seen in places whirling about. It is now fifteen feet beneath its ordinary mark on the banks. We had gone N.N.E. fifteen miles. 6/A. — I rose before the sun and bathed in the cold stream, which felt as winter water would in England. Again we advanced against a strong current. At 8 a.m. we reached the second abode of Kum Nipa, which a Dyak force had also attacked a few months ago, but had made no impression on its defences. The remains of the village were situated on a high hill, with steep ones surrounding it. The Dyaks had examined the tracks, and reported that the inhabitants had left about a month : but considered they could not HEALTHINESS OF THE FORCE. 2T5 be far off, as some of the wood and roofing had been carried with them. The name of this place was “ Pelawan,” on the left bank. There are many spots of pure white sand about the banks here. The distance begins to make one feel anxious, as the crews look downcast, and 0. K. Gassing was complain- ing loudly yesterday at the exhausting work. I pray for a successful result, as such an expedition will not easily be set afoot a second time. All are such losers by it, and the unpaid force cannot be expected to turn out again on such a task. Eitz’s crew exerted themselves cheerfully, and we were arriving at jungles freshly felled for farming grounds. This afforded us some ground for hope in the future. The hills became steeper and steeper, rising from the banks of the river. The force have an excited look about them this afternoon, and scent an enemy in the distance. We passed the Takok rapid, consisting of a bar of rocks, among which are many sharp and dangerous turns, with a gushing force of water passing. The scenery here is bluff and bold, and one cannot understand an enemy not holding in such places, where stones hurled might sink our boats* and keep us at bay for daysr Above this the banks are flatter again. A strong breeze blows refreshingly, wafting odours from the immense jungle blossoms. There is much variety under this morning’s overcast 276 TEX YEAES EX SABAWAK. sun, which produces changes of hues among the black rocks, dark mountains, variegated foliage, and patches of yellow, freshly-fallen jungles, withered by heat, but not yet burnt for farming. Our Dyak leaders are pushing on heedlessly, and probably a few will get killed : but not till then will they be more cautious. "We passed rapid after rapid, and yelled as we over- came the difficulties, until we were the headmost Malay boat. Our arms were loaded, and ready for work at a moment’s notice. The river is falling a little. We stopped early this afternoon for the purpose of collecting our force, and advancing hereafter closer together. Balang assures me we shall meet the enemy to- morrow. I heard this morning many of the Linggas have not overcome the lower rapids, and fear some have returned home ; but the rising generation of that country declare, that if the chiefs were not brave enough to follow, they would uphold the name of their tribe by marching overland, rather than be disgraced. They merely attempted to do so; but as they were without guides, soon again joined the boats. We lounged about, and pulled to visit the force in a sampan, for the remainder of the day. Our fellows appear very happy and healthy. 1th . — We made a few extra preparations in our boat this morning, to be ready for any emergencies, and with UNCERTAINTY OF TIIE ENEMY. — SCENT. 277 the Europeans keeping together, we proceeded. After three hours’ hard pulling, we came up to a large house in flames, set fire to by our leaders. The posts are of iron-wood, and the building must have contained about fifty families, who had decamped some days. There were a few fruit trees around it, with many of the grave pillars very ornamentally embellished ; the tops of them were covered with heavy slabs of stone or wood. This was Skapan. Two l'eaches further on, we came to the farming grounds, with the jungles freshly cut, and small farm-houses scattered about on the hill-sides. The scenery was very beautiful ; but there was little cultiva- tion. The bays are sometimes five hundred yards in width, giving the appearance of a land-locked lake, rather than a running river. The height of the hills varies under a thousand feet. Many fruit trees were on the banks. We were pulling with all our sinews, having con- tinued it since morning, when, at 3 p.m., we descried a sampan manned by a crew dressed in various colours, steering for us. They brought news of the enemy being fortified in a house, round the next point, and on the leading boats approaching, they were fired into, and some were killed and wounded. The enemy’s house was already, they said, surrounded ; but every time our fellows advanced, some were shot down. Taype, 27S TEX YEARS IN SARAWAK. ill the bows, on hearing the news, evinced his satis- faction with a yell. Our crew pulled on, and while rounding the point, the stockaded dwelling of the enemy was in sight, situated on a low spit. We steered across, out of the enemy’s range into the bay,, where all the boats had collected, lvith their armed crews tearing here and there, and making dire con- fusion. In fact, for the present, it was impossible to maintain order, or do anything but wait. The crowd of men and boats was so dense as to cause con- siderable danger from accidents. The boats cracked from being crushed so closely together. As evening advanced, and when the noise had somewhat subsided, I proceeded to arrange for the night, and preferred living on terra-firma, to staying among this promiscuous crowd, for fear of a panic among them. We then set to work to get the guns mounted, and the shot and ammunition were scattered around the place where I intended lodging for the night. Darkness then set in, and in the shade of evening I took a hastv view of the enemy’s position. The place of defence chosen by themselves was specially adapted to be played upon by our field-piece ; the stockade was at the end of a long point, with a narrow ridge running up the side of a hill from it, the trees on which had been cut down. This spot their guns commanded, and our fellows had NOISY PANIC. — ENEMY’S FLIGHT. 279 been shot down here, until experience taught them to be cautious. Our Dyaks continued rushing about wildly until a late hour, and the evening commenced with an alarm among our force, who yelled with all their might at nothing at all. After dining, I assembled the Malay chiefs to a conference, in which it was decided that a stockade was to be thrown up at once, in order that the gun might be prepared under cover of darkness, and mounted before daylight. Old Aing’s sepulchral tones recommended, “ Why not work by night in safety, rather than in daylight under fire.” They commenced immediately, and had completed the stockade before midnight, — just after which a report resounded from many directions that the enemy was gone. There was instant commotion among our people, the greater num- ber of whom had been on watch ; but they could not guard the river without being much exposed. I must confess I was immensely disappointed on hearing of the enemy’s escape, as all the worst characters and principal leaders were congregated here. 8 th . — I had just dozed off, when two Dyaks rushed into my abode, saying they had seized two Lelahs, one of which was for the Government, and they wished to have it guarded before it was robbed by others. I then dozed off 1 again ; but all the force was in such a stir 2S0 TEX YEARS IN SARAWAK that rest was impossible, and, on finding them moving on in numbers, I rose up for good to see about the gun and munitions of war which were lying in heaps around me. To serve them out among the force before it be- came too late was the first consideration. It was now 3 a.m., and I was in a surprisingly bad humour, which promised to increase rather than mend, under a con- catenation of circumstances. Some of the Dyaks were willing to oblige and to assist to carry off the things ; others fought shy, and frequently I could scarce keep my hands from lifting, and my tongue from evil speak- ing. At this time an old Menang (soothsayer) called my attention to something important, as I thought, so I sat down with the manner, and in the formal position which an Eastern does when listening to business. To my surprise it was merely to give his opinion at 330 a.m. how he thought things ought to have been arranged to ensure success. I was dreadfully enraged at this ancient personage, who was dressed in woman’s clothes, and I sent him off speedily, with stings, of which I doubt if he has since been perfectly clear. The job was a long and tedious one before I had served out Laja the last shot ; and bitterly did poor Apai Laja complain at the unfair share of work and loading with which his crew was encumbered. This man’s boat was a most perfect specimen of Dyak arclii- PLUNDEK OF HOUSES. 2S1 tecture. She sat like a swan on the water, and was capable of carrying sixty men, with a month’s provisions, without looking half her actual size. He said to me, “ You should have such a boat when you want to go anywhere, instead of the little low things you use.” Our force burnt this house, after having rifled it of the few things it contained, and then we advanced as soon as we could get away. The river was much swollen, and now ran strong. Before pulling far we descried smoke in different places on the banks, evidently the work of our party who were advancing in every direction. I heard this morning, that a few of them who had relations among the enemy of last night, had communicated, and recommended the latter to run with all haste, as — they told them — they would stand little chance of success against a gun and rockets. Sawing, Kalei, Talip, the murderers of Box and Steele, and the scourges of this country for the last four years, were in this house. I shall be well satisfied if I can get them ; but the most vicious are generally the most cautious in taking care of themselves, and in- variably leave others to suffer for their delinquencies. At 9 a.m. we reached a village in flames, on the left bank. Many others, also inland, were in a state of con- flagration. Some valuable jars and guns had been dug up, and brought to our boats ; the latter were of Brunei 282 TEX YEARS IX SABA WAX. manufacture, of ancient date, and more valuable than those cast for trade in the present day. They were handsomely designed, and one cannot understand the inhabitants not using their weapons, which are capable of throwing a two-pound shot against us. In all pro- bability they have been kept for generations, as hen- looms, or articles of commerce. Their fines are always paid in guns, and money is not in circulation amongst them. One very valuable jar, named “ Gusi,” was brought, a common-looking article, small, and one that would cer- tainly have been trampled on by strangers, but it is supposed to possess mysterious qualities — one of them being, that if anything be placed in it over night, the quantity will increase before morning ; even water will be found several inches deeper. It is wrapped in cloth, and treated with every mark of respect. People crawl in its presence, and touch and kiss it with the greatest care. They tell me this one is worth 150/., and valued most about Brunei and to the northward. Our sea Dyaks do not hold them as valuable property. The river is rising several inches per hour, much rain having fallen further up. Clouds dark above, and atmosphere dense around, threaten us with bad weather. The Dyaks were laying waste in all directions. It was surprising to find no opposition from these brave Kayans, JAKS.— MAJAWAH. 283 as they had heretofore been designated. An attacking force had never penetrated so high as this, and their boast had been, that none ever dare molest their river. Early in the afternoon we again pushed on, and found it as much as we could do to make way against the current. After passing two points we sighted the Majawah stream ; on reaching its mouth we found our Dyaks had had a brush with the Kayans, and had obtained some heads, which presented a disgusting spectacle, not to be looked at twice. In front of us was the Majawah rapid, which was boiling too angrily for any to attempt to proceed further. This rapid poured through a mountain gorge of about 600 yards in length. While seated on some high rocks viewing this picturesque bit of wild romantic scenery, some boats came in sight, causing a little excitement and rush for arms ; but we soon found they were drifting down with the stream, toppling about on the crests of the waves> until they were secured by our people. The enemy evidently had been using them on their retreat, had met with the fresh coming down, and then had taken to their heels, and in then' haste to retreat, left the boats to drift. One feels pity for these poor unfortunates, whose day of trial has arrived ; but the lesson, only half administered, will be equal to none at all, and require re-doing on a 284 TEX YEARS IX SARAWAK. future day. We should certainly obtain no credit for mercy, but only for weakness. There is a difficulty yet to be surmounted, some miles above, where the rapid is reported to run as high and steep as the side of a house. I wish at any rate to survey this impediment, above which point is Yonghang’s country of Kayans. Our force must make a demonstration if possible, as Yong- liang is the most powerful chief, and much feared by others. According to the inhabitants, the people who have already been attacked are the Ivajamans, only those above the highest rapid are styled by them Kayans. Our force is much scattered, and the greater part of them below this point are still hunting and pillaging. We must wait here patiently until the fresh runs off before we can move onward. This spot possesses a fine expanse of river scenery, some 800 yards broad, with steep hills to the water’s edge, clothed in primitive jungles on one side, and with a flat on the other. No high mountains are in sight, 1000 feet being the highest yet passed by us. There is a little Dyak boy worthy of remark in this boat : he has been Fitz’s companion, and is now lying and sleeping at our feet ; he is about thirteen years old, slim and genteel in figure, with a face and eye as sharp as any minx in the world. He is good-looking, with moderately well-proportioned features, the very image of DYAK BOY— HIS ACCOMPLISHMENTS. 285 his father, who possesses one .of the most troublous spirits in the river, and has been a constant head-hunter between Rejang, Batang Lupar, and Undup. He has always cleverly managed to evade pursuers, who have been repeatedly sent for the express purpose of catching him alive or dead. He became a friend of ours about six years ago, after having led several attacks against the Kanowit Fort, and on one occasion, while lying in ambush to take Mr. Steele’s life, he threw his spear, which fortunately missed its aim. This individual is now among the force, in command of a large boat, and his young son has been placed under charge of Fitz — not for the first time, for his father is in the habit of putting his son in 'pawn when he, the father, mis- conducts himself, and this has lately been the case. It would amuse strangers to see the urchin standing- up giving his orders more positively than any midship- man of twice his size in H.M.’s service. He appears to know the name of every creek, point, and mountain in the river, and never forgets a remark once heard. His achievements in supple-jointedness are surprisingly painful. I saw him once sitting with both his legs brought over his shoulders, and his feet hanging down in front, over his chest. At another time he placed both his feet together round his head, and kept them in that position for some moments. His fingers he twists 286 TEX YE AES IX SAEAWAK together in distressingly heterodox ways; but he makes a most agreeable companion, having pleasant manners, and being remarkably clever and amusing, without ever becoming wearisome. He is now busily adorning a cap taken from the enemy, and is repeating — “ Abi Maria, tes di hower ob prayer ; Abi Maria, tes di bower ob lob ; Abi Maria, may our speret dare Look up to di, and to dy ton’s abob.” This is the extent of his European education. We had been N.N.E. eight miles to-day; it con- tinues to drizzle, and the river increases. 9 th . — The stream still runs too strong for us to make any way, so we decide to remain quiet and wait patiently. Our party are in all directions, and some have made considerable marches inland, staying the night in the jungles. I have been feverish to-day, and used blankets externally, with warm brandy and water internally. Towards sunset I found myself recovering. Fitz and I pulled in the evening into the Majawah stream, which is lined with our boats. We met our people, and exchanged a few*words with each ; they are happy, and with the exception of a few, there are no signs of wishing to return. Balang says he will attempt the rapid in the morning; there are no marks yet of the water falling. The rise and fall are equally sudden so far up. A GOEGE.— JOK’S PERFOEMANCE. 287 The number of boats and men in our force is incom- putable at present. I dream of the Makun rapid a-head; we must see it at all events, and if we fail to surmount the difficulties, we must return. 10£/i. — Long before daylight the Dyaks began dis- turbing me, with inquiries whether an advance was to be made to-day or not, and by their tone I could tell some far preferred the easier employment of seeking for plunder to facing the rapids, which were not yet visible, in order to ascertain in what state they were for passing over. At daylight the water had slightly decreased, and at 9 a.m. Balang with his force drew up to the edge of the fall, and crossed over to the other side ; but only one man succeeded in getting his boat round that ledge of rock, which had a path not more than two inches in breadth, on which the rope had to be taken over. We all shivered as the adventurous Jok was performing this feat. Balang tried after him, and failed. A few hours later our boats went up without any great diffi- culty. When we reached the upper part of this gorge, we could plainly survey the fall behind us, — our force coming up one by one with dense masses of thousands on the rocks, others again wending an antlike pilgrimage around the almost perpendicular banks and ledges. Toes and fingers often came in useful for clinging to every niche. This gorge we could plainly see lay 2SS TEN YE AES IN SARAWAK. - between a range of two low bills, and had a considerable descent. Above this point we again reached smooth and deep water, running quietly. The crews were stopping and plundering things thrown aside by the enemy as they retreated. We pulled in untroubled waters for only an hour, and then arrived at dangerous rocky places, gra- dually getting steeper and steeper. The stream rushed past, and numbers of our boats were damaged. Fortu- nately we had picked up many native Tamuais. The channels wound circuitously among some very sharp rocks over which we had to use ropes. Any mistake in these places was certain destruction. Watson and Stuart had entered a native boat, leaving their long skim-along below. Serjeant Lee’s boat was smashed ; he and his crew were deposited on a rock for some hours. We came to for the night in a bight, surrounded in every direction by rocks of the hardest and sharpest quality : the water was fast receding. The leaders of our force lost one man here ; as he w r as taking out the rope, an enemy blew a sumpit arrow - into his chest, which knocked him down, when his head was cut off and suspended by the enemy to an overhanging branch in the next reach. This w^as evidently done for the purpose of intimidating us. The Dyaks w r ho came and informed us of this disaster, were nearly related to the TRIAL OF SPEED AND STRENGTH. 2S9 deceased, but seemed extremely merry with their story, and looked on it as a matter of course. Only a few small boats had gone on, and we were led to understand the grand rapid Avas no great distance above us, but Dyak distances are never to be relied on. Not more than eight or nine men out of our whole force had ever been so far into the interior before, and those only by land on their head-hunting excursions, accompanying the Kayans against the tribes inhabiting countries near Brunei. I give the Malays great credit for their con- tinued exertion, but only the sweeping body carries them forward. They never expected to penetrate so far into Borneo, and never wish to attempt such another undertaking. We can see little of the country beyond the river’s banks, which are very steep and rugged. Advanced to-day east-north-east six miles. Wth . — By the first ray of light I arose to witness a truly stirring scene. Our people had commenced to advance, and first of all they had to try to pull against a gush. One in twelve could scarcely overcome the rapidity of this stream ; the remainder drifted away and had to stretch out ropes on the banks for hauling up. Each boat on an average containing from fifty to sixty men, trying with all their might. I watched until our turn came, and betting Fitz a bottle of champagne we should not do it, we advanced with a steady biting VOL. II. U 290 TEX YEARS EX SARAWAK. sweep of paddle, our boat getting good way before we came to the swiftest fall. We reached about half through, and our fellows clung to their paddles with the greatest determination ; but it was fruitless, for after a few seconds in holding our own, we quietly glided backwards, drew into the banks, and prepared the ropes. The disappointment was great, notwithstanding the winning of the champagne. Our boat underwent a very narrow escape, as she nearly filled : fortunately some active fellows lifted her bows in time, into which the fall was pouring. We swung unmercifully against rock after rock, distressing even the people in the boat ; and nothing but her thick and tough skin could have survived such treatment ; any ribbed craft would have sunk in an instant. This continued for two hours, and our crew were becoming weary and cold. The force now were in multitudes, but the voices were drowned by waters. On inquiry I found we were now at the foot of Makun Rapid ; two boats were passing us bottom up, having filled in the rapid, the dangers of which we could not yet see. The covering of the tops of the boats had to be removed and the traps taken by land, as the only hope of mastering difficulties was by lightening as much as possible. Some hands remained in to keep her from dashing against the rocks, and the remainder were to attend to the ropes stretched (Yol. II. p 291.) THE 3IAKUN RAPID. THE MAKUN RAPID . 291 to the utmost limit. We got out and sat on the rocks, while the entire work was left to the crews ; and here we witnessed all that passed. Only one at a time could proceed round this critical point ; some had gone on already, and the first one we saw advance to the point, swerved by some slight mistake off into the centre of the stream. In an instant she almost filled. The men let go the ropes, and this saved her, for she then drifted down water-logged. One un- fortunate man was dragged into the water by holding too long to the rope ; we saw him sink, and concluded he was drowned, as in such a place, an escape would seem miraculous ; however, in ten minutes we heard he had been picked up below, having saved his life by strenuously holding to the rope, and shortening, hand over hand, the whole time under water ; he had risen once to the surface for a second, and the second time of rising he was in comparatively smooth water and safe. Watson’s boat’s crew attempted to haul over on the opposite side. We predicted her peril, but voices were of no avail in the watery hubbub. This party of young fellows evinced much more gallantry than wisdom, their intention evidently being to show the others how such work could only be done by Saribus men. Two men remained in her, one forward and one aft; the rest hauled her bows up to the fall, which entered, and in 292 TEX YEAES IN SAEaWAK. an instant, and without more ado, she filled. "While swinging off, the man in the bow jumped overboard within six feet of the bank, and in a back water was about half an hour exerting himself to his utmost to get ashore ; he did so at last, but was thoroughly exhausted. In the meantime, the boat turned bottom up. The other young fellow stood on her keel, and his voice I heard saying, “Ambel aku” (fetch me), with outstretched arms; but not one of the hundreds of boats dare shove off a foot into that troubled pool. The boat was drawn, as it were, into a chasm stern first, and with bows erect twirled round as if she had been a teetotum. The boy sunk, and we saw no more of him. I had known him since a babv, and now thought I should never see his face again. However, in a quarter of an hour he was chattering behind my back, saying he had clung to a pillow while under water, had been quite helpless for some minutes, and then rose below, where he was pulled out. I felt very anxious while witnessing these hair- breadth escapes, and the consciousness of being quite powerless made one more sensitive. About fifteen boats had been lost here one way and another, and only a few of the Malay boats had attempted the pass ; in fact, very few had reached so far. Our boat passed up after a few r seas only entering. Swimming qualities arc of little use in such a place, and the only chance of escape WONDERFUL ESCAPE. 29o is by holding the breath and not swallowing water ; but if the nerve be lost, this would take place immediately. The distance was not sufficient to drown a man, unless he was dashed against a rock, and the force of the stream, which I reckon at least twelve knots per hour, speedily carried him through the clauger, although under water the whole time. I resolved to push on with the force we had, viz. : 150 Malays and about 100 Dyak boats. Watson and Stuart were now boatless, and they also had to harbour in Fitz’s boat, which had become the refuge for the destitute. One of my companions observed, it was worth coming all the way to see what boats might be made to do. A satisfaction prevails at having overcome this greatest obstacle in the approach to the Ivayan confines. We proceeded about five miles, and towards evening received news that some captives had been taken. The enemy hold nowhere, and are pursued like sheep. I at once decided to go no further, as our "work of de- struction is a sufficient punishment for these people, who have proved themselves a most dastardly set of cowards, running on every occasion, leaving their chil- dren and women at the mercy of our Dyaks. The river visibly decreased in size here, and became more shallow and free from difficulties. The mountains rose steeper and higher, with much cleared ground and 294 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. gardens and farms on their sides. On the latter we now halted, where some small huts had been burnt down. The gardens contained sweet potatoes, tapioca, and many palms, which I thought at first were sagu, but it was the wild sort, on which the inhabitants rely for food to a great extent. We passed one large stream running on the right bank, about a mile and a half above the Makun rapid, called Malupai, running in a northerly direction. The cultivated plots of ground show an increased population here over that of the lower countries, but all the remains of houses have been those of single families. This is frequently the case when an enemy has never disturbed the people enough to require them to congregate in bodies fcr protection. We made to-day about six miles, east. 12 th . — I despatched Watson and Stuart down the river this morning, as they are boatless, and no more work is in prospect. They are to wait for us at the Majawah mouth to prevent any more of our force ad- vancing, and direct the Dyaks to return home. I sent a hasty despatch to Sarawak to the Rajah, giving him an account of our proceedings, of which I knew he would be most anxious to hear. I must confess I have been disappointed in not having found an enemy to contend against. The natural obstacles of the river, so formid- COWAKDICE OF THE ENEMY. 295 able as they were, would have been rendered impreg- nable in fifty places, if it had been Sakarang and Saribus Dyaks who were defending a stream with such natural fortifications. These stupid inhabitants trusted to the superstitious traditions of then- forefathers to guard them without the help of man, and now have awakened to the mistake of their impregnability too late. They have resorted to their heels on every occasion ; and two young boys yesterday told me they chased up a steep hill two men who were equal to the boys in arms, both parties only having swords. Such wretches scarcely deserve pity, but the poor women suffer. Our Avarlike munitions have been useless, and the gun only sounded in firing twenty-one rounds on the bank this afternoon. A boat arrived this morning bringing three captives, one of whom I determined to leave on the bank to take a message, Avhen Ave return, to Yonghang. At sunset Ave collected the feAv chiefs, and the captive Avoman of middle age Avas brought before us. I told her, by means of an interpreter, that “We attacked their country because they had taken part against our friends and the subjects of SaraAvak, and had harboured the three chief murderers of Messrs. Tox and Steele, named Kalei, SaAving, and Talip. Whoever befriended them must necessarily become our enemies ; besides, they had 296 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. made several attacks on the Dyaks.” I wished her to make known to 1 onghang that I did not advance on his house, out of compassion to his people, as I considered the lesson had been sufficiently severe, and told her that she should remain here when our force retired. I gave her a 12-pounder shot and a Sarawak flag, which were to be presented to Yonghang for him to take his choice. The latter was an emblem of peace, which would provide him with a safe conduct to Kanowit, in order to open peaceful relations. The shot was an emblem of War, which we should conclude he had accepted, if he did not shortly make his appearance with the flag. All attacks by Dyaks would be forbidden for the present, as it was our desire to be on friendly terms. The captive at first seemed agitated and frightened, particularly of the Dyaks coming to take her life. On this point I satisfied her by saying that I should take the life of anyone who molested her. After a few sentences, she gradually gained confidence and listened attentively. She had of course never seen a white man before, and it was evident and somewhat strange that she seemed to look with more trust to pale faces than the others. She ended by requesting that some beads, which she had lost during the day, might be restored to her. Those were valuable articles to her ; too trivial, however, to think about now. The Dyak from whom I took the captive complained FEMALE CAPTIVE.— DESCENT. 297 bitterly, and said lie had lost a mother and sister, killed by the Kayans, and now wanted her in exchange. I gave them to understand plainly that whoever touched her would suffer death. Our force kept coming down and plaguing about plunder. I was getting very tired of the monotony of remaining here ; the Dyak language hangs heavily on my tongue at such times. Fitz and I clambered up a hill this afternoon, and obtained a bird’s-eye view of the surrounding country ; but the landscape was not exten- sive, and the hills are all *steep. We had some wild sago-plant cooked for dinner ; the taste is too bitter to be pleasant. Dancing and strumming on a one-stringed guitar was carried on until a late hour. 13/4 and 14/4. — We waited for loiterers, who pro- voked me by their dilatoriness. Some had been wounded by poisonous arrows, but the only effect w 7 as feverish- ness. A few had ghastly wounds from spears ; these w r e doctored as w r ell as we could, and trusted to Dame Nature’s healing power. There had been more dread- ful sights in this campaign than I had bargained for. Many women and even children had been killed by our people, who state, with some degree of truth, that they had mistaken them in their excitement for men, as they wore head-dresses similar to the dress of men in their country. However, I resolved on any future occasion 29S TEX YEARS IX SARAWAK. when I should have to call out the Dyaks, that a heavy fine should be imposed on anyone perpetrating such acts. Still, at present they can scarcely be expected to comprehend such a rule, as many are now thirsting for revenge, smarting under the loss of wives, mothers, and sisters mercilessly tortured and killed by these Kayans, who have always been in the habit of practising the blackest treachery and making sudden attacks when pro- fessing the staunchest friendship. While on the ground, I will remark that the names Yonghang and Youghee (his* wife), who are the chiefs in the Kayan country, more resemble Chinese names than any other in these latitudes. Kum and Yong are mere prefixes : the former is attached to the name of the father, after the death of any of the younger children, and the latter, “ Yong,” when the eldest dies. Yong- liang’s residence is two days above this spot, and contains a village of eight houses. We deposited the captive on the bank with a paddle, canoe, covering, rice, and cooking utensils, and she remained while we shoved off to return. The woman had become more confident, and as she is nearly related to Yonghang, there is every probability of the message reaching. Upon our depar- ture this disconsolate female will utter the wild Kayan jungle cry, which will soon be heard and recognised. It is very peculiar, and not easily imitated by strangers. KAYAN NAMES— HEAD OP MAKUN. 299 We soon made way down the stream, flying past rocks and bights against which we had slowly dragged ourselves in the ascent. On reaching the head of Makun rapid, we lightened our boat, and let her quietly down with only half our crew. She more than half filled before reaching the foot ; broken boats were in every direction, whose crews were waiting, some dis- consolately sitting on the tops of rocks in the centre of the stream, and it fell to our share to give them all a passage. It took little time to arrive at the Majawah river, where we cooked and prepared for evening, with our hundreds of boats, all of which I wished to start before my departure. The same night we reached Kajaman. 15 th . — I strolled and looked over the remains of the house in which the enemy had first been seen : it belonged to Kum Nipa, who, the captives told us, had engaged to defend the river at this point, to prevent any attacking force from passing up into the interior. We again speedily descended, and reached the head of the first rapid at 3 - 30 p.m., and at once commenced drifting .down. Some walked over the rocks, some towards the boats with ropes. Those who pulled through were immersed in seas of spray. More than half filled in many places, and it was only the shortness of time that saved them. It was indeed a thrilling sight, and did 300 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK not involve the labour of the ascent. One long-faced Brunei Pangeran (Prince) in a Malay boat, Avas giving directions, so that his boat might be ready for lowering with a rope, when through some slight mistake the boat swerved off and dropped down a fall of ten feet or more. The crew held on for their lives, and the hundreds of bystanders cheered with deafening sounds. That no accident befel this boat was really extraordinary, and the Pangeran was considered a hero, although his face at the time it happened denoted his intense anxiety. Nobody dared commit such another mistake. Massive boulders were in every direction, but the whirl of water carries a boat’s bow clear of them, as if by a special dis- pensation of spirits. We halted at the foot of the rapid, ready to take in the boatless in case of accidents. 1 Qth . — After seeing all our force clear of the dan- gerous places, we again advanced, with the hope of reaching Kanowit at night-time. The pulling was excessively wearisome and trying, and after the excite- ment one feels a want of spirits. In looking over our force and counting those passing, we must number five hundred large boats, containing about fifteen thousand men — Dyaks of some twenty different branch tribes, who had mostly been enemies of each other in former times. The Kayans are supposed to number ten thousand souls, and the lower intermediate DESCRIPTION OF TRIBES. 301 branches of this tribe, named Kajaman, Skapan, Punan, Bakatan and Ukit, muster many thousands more, but are now much broken up and scattered, many seeking quiet abodes out of the limits of these quarrelsome districts. Above the Kavan country is a tribe named o J Kenniah, who nominally have always been on friendly terms with us, but are really strangers, as they inhabit the very centre of the island, between the Ivotei and Rejang streams. All of these branch tribes are more or less tattooed : some at the wrist, others below the knee, some all over, and others only a little on the chest. I feel convinced they are all connected, and that the difference of dialects is to be accounted for by separa- tion, which among such people, so soon produces changes of language, usages, and even appearance. The tribes of this river have a tendency to corpulency, and are clumsily built men, without the natural grace of most primitive peoples. The horrid practice of plucking the eyelashes, which occasions blindness and weakness of vision in about ten per cent., is universal among this barbarous people. They are skilful with their weapons in a war-dance, and some divisions manufacture their own iron, as well as short swords, which fetch as much as 10/., if of superior workmanship. There is no doubt they possess a much more correct idea of music than any other natives I have met, and the small guitar 302 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. they play and dance to is monotonous, but possesses harmony, and is fingered and played correctly on two or three strings. They farm as Dyaks, but not in so large a quantity, cultivating also sweet potatoes, tapioca, and other vegetables , but agricultural products are scant, and their comforts are few compared even to those of Dyaks. They dress much in the same manner, with rings of ivory and beaded rings in their ears, and a tiger’s tooth through each lobe. Hung to the women’s ears are ponderous bits of lead or brass. As mentioned before, the females wear a head-dress, generally allowing then 1 hah’ to fall loosely down their backs, or else they wind it round the head-gear when it encumbers their movements. Their lower dress is a short petticoat. This afternoon we passed two Bakatans whom I had seen at Kajaman on our ascent, when they asked me for some sign to keep them safe from the attack of our party when foraging against the enemy. They were by far the wildest men it had ever been my fortune to see, clothed with Maias (orang-utan) skins over their backs and shoulders, using skin caps with dingy feathers attached to them; but their dress could never have enhanced the wildness of nature’s robes. They had well shaped heads, and moderately good figures — bones with- out an extra ounce of flesh, and denoting great muscular power ; aquiline noses, with sunken eyes, yet sparkling END OF KAY AN EXPEDITION. 303 with the ferocity of a wild animal ; cheeks indented under high and prominent bones, the lower parts of which, instead of being clothed with whiskers, Avere tatooed ; this ornament passed round the chin. They looked such peculiar objects that I could not vouchsafe for any sign being a guard against attacks of our people when in an excited state; so recommended them to keep to them boats, and as close to us as they could. We halted late this evening at N gam ah and dined, still distant twenty miles from Kanovvit. \lth . — This morning we reached Kanowit, and were rejoiced to be again in so civilised a place, as the con- diments of our food have for some days been very poor. Here ends the Kayan expedition. I returned to Saka- rang, and reckon we had been seven hundred miles within a month, by paddles alone. All parties are extremely fatigued, and even Dyaks have no desire for such an expedition to be renewed. I fell into my usual routine of work, but found very far from agreeable news awaiting my arrival. There were difficulties once or twice with the Dyaks of Rejang, in keeping them from making further in- cursions against the Kayans, and on one occasion two Kayans were killed, as well as six of these Dyaks, who deserved their fate. After nearly a month had expired since the return of the expedition, a party of Kayans 304 TEX TEAKS IX SARAWAK. appeared, bearing the flag which was left with the captive up the river. They numbered seventy men, and came for the purpose of expressing the friendly feeling of the tribe and their desire for peace in future. They reported that the chief, Yonghang, had assembled the people to a very large conference, in which future pro- ceedings and relations were to be discussed. At the time of the conference Yonghang rose, drew his sword, and cut down Talip ; his followers at the same time overpowered Ivalei, and put him to death ; but Sawing was absent, having decamped some days before. The heads of Talip and Ivalei were brought down and exposed for a week at Kanowit. These were sufficient tokens to prove that the hearts of the people were true to us, and their word could now be trusted. The month of August was appointed for the final peace to be con- cluded with all the Dyak tribes, when the proper form and ceremonv was to be attended to. */ A dire event happened now with Balang, chief of Katibus, who had permitted his people to put to death one of the captives brought from the Kayan country — an old woman, of whose capture I had heard when still on the expedition ; and I had specially cautioned him that she was not to be molested on her arrival at his house. It is a Kayan custom, named “ Jalmm,” when captives are brought to any enemy’s country, that one should ATROCIOUS PRACTICE— BALANG’S PUNISHMENT. 30 n suffer death, to bring prosperity and abolish the curse of he enemy in their lands. The deed is generally per- formed by women, who torture with sticks, &c. I felt very angry with Balang, who had been so true a friend to us in other ways, and imposed a fine of twelve rusa jars (120/.) on him as an example, to prevent such an abominable practice getting foot among Dyak tribes. This was the heaviest fine that could be imposed. He paid it down ; and on my meeting him a short time after, he said, “ Tuan, you know it was not my heart that was in fault ; but I could not govern my people, who did this deed when I was away.” He did not appear to bear malice, or expect any of his property to be restored to him, and evidently thought he had deserved the punishment. The Kayans failed to come down, as another hitch had occurred, owing to an outlying party of Dyaks. At this time two Kayan captive boys joined me — one little fellow of nine years old, and the son of a chief ; the other, a cousin, but a coarse-looking chap. We all became attached to the former, who was as proud as Lucifer, and on some one wishing to cut off his wild flowing mane, he raved all day. He methodically kept to his custom of unkempt hair, and the middle ribbon in the place of trousers. When in the gunboat, a man questioned him about a sister, who had also been taken YOL. II. X 306 TEX YEAES IX SARAWAK. captive. After hearing her name, he wept the whole day, refusing to receive any consolation. It indicated much tender feeling in the lad, and one cannot but be struck at the little fellow’s thoughtful appearance, and upright and independent bearing. I had brought them for the purpose of putting them to school in Sarawak, but confess I have qualms of doubt about its ever being able to do them any material good, or in any way better their condition. Schools for aboriginal tribes should be somewhere near their own country, where the scholars would not learn to forget and despise their own people. If such youths as these be put to school, before a year is over they will scout their parents’ names and be perfected in the civilised eccentricities of the Chinese children in the Bazaar, totally unfit to return to their own country again. These little fellows were sent back a month afterwards, having seen a man-of-war steamer, and many other sights in Sarawak. They returned to their parents with a favourable report of the kindness they had received, and the strange sights they had witnessed. October , 1863. — The Kayan peace was concluded this month, when the chiefs arrived at Kanowit for that purpose. They met the Dyaks, and a pig was killed according to custom. The terms and points to be sacredly attended to were all discussed before the Resident of the place. Some of the chiefs of the Kenniah THE KA.YAN PEACE. 307 country were also present, and expressed a desire for trade and friendship. They talked of removing down the river. At this meeting there were representatives of twenty-five thousand souls, who were all strangers to us, although living in the limits of Sarawak territory. Their trade evidently will be valuable in the extreme — camphor, gutta percha, and rattans abounding in their countries — besides the immense advantage of holding communication with tribes occupying the interior and centre of the island — extending over a line of commu- nication by the Kotei river, completely through to the south-eastern side of Borneo. When peaceful relations among the intermediate tribes are a little better cemented, this line of route will be most advantageous to scientific explorers. This peace has been the great event of the year 1863, and leaves Sarawak without an enemy in her dominions, and without an inter-tribal petty war of any description. This is the first time the country has had peace; and may it be a lasting one, for expeditions are expensive and injurious, and have a dis- turbing influence as a rule, although a very beneficial effect occasionally. The inhabitants have now become too civilised and attached to trade, preferring to pay a tax to being called out in war; and it surprises one that they have allowed it for so long a time, as many have ceased to 308 TEX YEAES IX SARAWAK. feel the dire effects of head-hunting, and still have been called from their homes for weeks together to attack distant places, unknown even by name to them. In former times they well knew the necessity of assembling to meet the Dyaks, when the latter were committing their marauding depredations. There is no seeing into the future, nor speculating on the events that will occur ; but interesting will it be to those who have witnessed this country unfolding itself even thus far, to have their lives spared for another twenty years, and perhaps find Sarawak equal, or in all probability superior, to Singapore. The most central part for governing and best adapted, as the eventual capital of the Sarawak State, is some spot on the Rejang river, which is the largest and most navigable in the territory, though its interior contains populations, the very names of whom have scarcely as yet come to light. This stream is Sarawak’s artery, and on it the head- quarters would maintain a superior influence and power over the whole coast, and by lfieans of steam commu- nication and with moderate caution, would preclude any difficulties arising in future. Our population requires an experienced commander ; but when once the relations of one party with another are properly understood, it is a singularly easy government to carry on, — tribes, one with another, being so well balanced, that in the EEFOEMS. 309 event of danger arising from any one party, the other may be trusted to counteract evil influences, and act as a balancing medium in the scale. The Malays, subtle and treacherous as they are generally considered — and this opinion is excessively exaggerated— are so divided in their councils, as not to be dangerous enemies. Petty jealousies between themselves, generally overturn all feelings of clanship and deep designs against a govern- ment. About this time, while on a hurried visit to Saka- rang, I took advantage of the season to assemble all the chiefs of that river and Saribus, for the purpose of meeting many whom I had not seen since the attack was made on Sadok, and to return the property held during my absence in England, as a surety for their good con- duct. I had kept the restoration a profound secret before uttering the grant of deliverance. The Saribus chiefs were inwardly grateful, and blessed every Antu (spirit) under the sun, moon, and stars, for their good fortune in again receiving these jars, each of which they value as much as a child. We also discussed and passed many preliminary reforms in the social system. 1st. Weights and measures were to be used in future. 2nd. The tabooing of land after the death of anyone was not to be extended to new farming-grounds, which are virtually in the possession of Government. 3rd. Pines 310 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. imposed among themselves were to be limited, and their customs to be regularly in accordance with their fore- fathers’ practices. All these proposals were heartily responded to in the meeting, which lasted about two hours. Then we broke up, and many found their way into my sanctum, particularly three old Saribus Dyaks, to whom, amid a shower of other questions, late at night, I attempted to describe the ascent of a balloon ; and this account so puzzled them, and me, too, in the Dyak language, that I was glad to bid them all good night. In December, the last of the murderers of Fox and Steele, named Sawing, was condemned to death. He had been the principal perpetrator of the act, and sub- sequently had been our subtlest and most dangerous enemy. Audacious in acts and clever in policy, lie has been the cause of the deaths of hundreds of individuals, having drawn them into his lair, and left them to encounter an enemy, from which he always retreated in time to save his own life. And now the deaths of private friends and public servants, who occupied a distant and isolated out-station, have been completely avenged, — the last and chief of this tragedy being brought to punishment, so richly merited, just five years since the original act took place. The peculiarities of such an individual may be worth describing. When he was sentenced to death as a ringleader, he received DESCRIPTION OE SAVING. 311 the announcement apparently without a nervous twinge, and spoke without the slightest hesitation before a crowded court. His appearance did not prepossess one in his favour ; his ears were six inches long, with gaping apertures through the lobes, but without any ornament attached to them, as is generally the case ; his skin Avas diseased by an eruption, or ringworm, all over his body ; the lines of his face were much drawn by a hard and exposed life, rather than by old age. The features were far from irregularly developed, and the nose was better shaped than is usual in this country; eyes small, but sharp and shrewd; and his natural complexion must have been fair, but now bronzed from exposure. Sawing by birth w T as half a Bakatan, and half belonging to a small tribe named Tanjong ; the latter were never numerous, and were now nearly extinct. His countenance to me was not a vicious one ; but I was afterwards told by natives, who were strangers to him, it was a face that one native would never trust in another. I yield to their aptitude in being able to form opinions of character by physiog- nomies, which they read with far more accuracy than Europeans. Murders had been so often witnessed by Sawing, who had also been a principal in them so repeatedly, that spilliug of blood, even his own, had ceased to excite him. 312 TEX YEARS IX SARAWAK I can fully imagine this being the case, as sensations grow hardened, by only viewing distressing scenes, and continued war and strife blunt the edge of sen- sibility. The man in going to the boat which was to carry him to his death, after having carefully arranged a red jacket on himself, and thrown his long flowing hair over his shoulders, walked with measured step through a large concourse of spectators, as calmly as if nothing was to happen. When about to be “ krised ”* he sat without a shudder or mark of fear, and after- wards the fatal weapon was passed into his heart, and produced instantaneous death. So ended his career, a more chequered one than most ; but he died like a man, however he may have lived, and peace be to his ashes. * Mode of execution. CONCLUDING REMARKS. I. — ON THE MODE OF ADMINISTRATION. The principal Malay chiefs were in the habit of coming often to Government House to pay their re- spects, and their freedom of manner, though never accompanied by disrespect, was sufficient to give me a very fair idea of their feelings and state of happiness. Others, of the lower orders, generally followed them, or came and went of their own accord, helping themselves freely to fruit and flowers, being permitted this licence. The Datus, or Principal Chiefs, were supplied at this time with the revenue of the Sarawak Dyaks, who paid a yearly amount of padi, according to an established custom. But of subsequent years the system has been changed, and the Datus now receive regular salaries from the Government Treasury, into which the whole of the revenue is paid direct. This is a far better plan, as it precludes the possibility of extortion. The mode of administering justice during my ten years’ residence in the country, with the exception of a few changes and 314 TEN YEARS IN SARAWAK. reforms, lias been as follows. There are two established Courts in Sarawak, over one of which the head chief presides, called the Datus’ Court, and situated in the Malay Kampong ; divorce cases are settled in this court, and other business matters wherein punishments and rules are regulated according to the Maliommedan code of laws : the fines accruing from these are paid into the Treasury. The other is the Supreme Court, which is open to all classes of natives, who are permitted to resort to it whenever any case is pending with them, and is presided over by the Rajah, or his representative in the country. The Datus also witness, and have a voice in any case of importance, in the trials of the Malay inhabitants. The system at first was patriarchal, the mode in which almost all primitive countries have to be governed — the Rajah being looked upon as the father of his people, who follow his word implicitly, irrespective of legal re- sponsibility, and rely on his advice to direct all their pro- ceedings ; but in after years, the increasing trade, com- munication, and prosperity, have necessarily awakened form, ceremony, and official regulations. The mode of procedure is more clearly defined than the code of laws, as even to this day cases are more or less entangled and complicated with the foul wrongs of former times. The system of settlement in such cases, THE ADMINISTRATION OF THE COUNTRY. 315 is to modify pervading evils and produce forms by which precedents may be established. Simple cases of debt are not difficult to settle, as the custom is that a debtor shall labour until the debt be paid off in full. Questions of slavery are the most perplexing to solve and keep within reasonable bounds. Actual trade in slaves is forbidden between one country and another, but the passing from one hand to another is permitted. The system is grievous at the very core, and the best must be made out of the worst. Even English law only nominally prevents it, as it is practised in many places where the British flag flies ; and the question is, whether it be not the best and wisest plan to permit it under certain regulations and restrictions. For if courts are shut to such cases, the aggrieved will never apply for relief, or even assistance, when they are held in slavery. It exists, however, only in a modified form in these countries, but there are frequently very distressing cases for an European to have to listen to, and pass judgment upon. Malay masters have had the power of life and death over slaves in this country in former times, and many cases might be enumerated in which it was exercised ; but this extreme power and authority was not of usual occurrence, nor was it considered a general prerogative of the master. Such cases as have been named to me, have, in all instances, taken place after a 316 TEX YEARS IX SARAWAK. slave had conceived a liking (coupled with certain ex- cesses on both sides) for a free woman of rank. How- ever, since the government of Sir James Brooke has been established, these murderous barbarities have much decreased, and the master is now aware that “ a life for a life ” is the rule of the Government ; but certain ex- tenuating circumstances should be borne in mind, as the difficulties he encounters, under the new regime of extended freedom, in keeping subjection and obedience among his slaves, are considerable. The slaves can soon see the spirit of those in power, and are not slow in taking advantage of it. This sentiment can only be indulged in with the greatest care, or much danger would ensue; and the holding of a due balance is abso- lutely necessary in all cases between masters and slaves. The smallest tendency to encourage undue rights on the part of the master against slaves, or old debtors, immediately creates an influx of masters, eager to prose- cute unjust claims over hundreds of the population. And again, if the slave, even by word of mouth, from injudicious or careless officials, be put too absolutely beyond the reach of their established masters, it imme- diately occasions the flight of a multitude of slaves, and a stronger curb is then required on the other side. The right of native subjection is acknowledged by the Dutch officials in Java, who exercise authority in ADMINISTRATION AND CUSTOMS. 317 compelling the deference and obedience of the labouring class to their masters and chiefs. The late attractive work by Mr. Money on that country, shows its exceeding prosperity and flourishing condition, and the greatest credit is due to the wise culture, laws, and regulations, which have developed its resources. An apparently in- exhaustible revenue is supplied, besides a large overplus being remitted to the mother country. Still it is the impression of many persons who have come from Java, that the poor are a very abused and oppressed people, being forced both to provide labour for the Government, as well as to comply with the demands of their own native chiefs. The Government regulates every item of administration and every detail of life. The idea that a coloured man can approach a European in capacity is sternly repudiated, and as a result there is not an atom of sympathy between rulers and ruled. The law is inexorably just, but there is no ingredient of kindly feeling or good will in its execution. One cannot help admiring the policy to a certain degree, but if the method be impartially viewed, it will be pretty clear that it is an enlightened system of slavery, which by clever and careful handling has led to the remarkable prosperity of the country. It is satisfactory to know that reforms are gradually' peeping even into the Java method, and the labourer 318 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. will receive something more than his halfpenny a day, and not he found craving so often for a mouthful of rice. The Javanese race are remarkably docile, and are the population of all others which might be expected to develop the resources of a country. The Sarawak Malay district consists of different Kam- pongs (villages) under separate chiefs, who are chosen by the people, and the appointments are sanctioned by Go- vernment. These chiefs are referred to for the purpose of settling minor disputes, and they are the responsible agents to Government for the good conduct of the villagers under their management. The chiefs have not the power of holding an open court or of fining, but are appealed to generally, before cases are taken into the court of the Datus or the Supreme Court, and many useful compromises are brought about at their instiga- tion. These chiefs are generally the Nakodahs and Abangs of the country. They collect the revenues of their several Kampongs, and obtain a per-centage on the amount collected. Be- sides this they have no emolument, and they are allowed to trade at their pleasure, if there be no Government work required of them. But since a poll-tax has been levied, the people have been exempted from being called out by Government to a distance ; and only the Malays of a ADMINISTRATION AND CUSTOMS. 319 few districts in the vicinity of head-hunting Dyaks are exempt from the payment of the poll-tax, and are liable to the calls of Government for warlike purposes along the coast or inland. This is the ordinary form, but at the same time the whole population have the privilege of bringing their complaints into the Supreme Court ; and when such cases occur, the chiefs of these Kampongs are assembled to witness fair play and see justice done. If the Government were to confine the lower orders exclusively within the jurisdiction of their immediate chiefs, and with no privilege of appeal, the crimes of slavery would increase, judicial action would become more or less clandestine, and the inferior part of the population would virtually withdraw their allegiance from the supreme Government, in fear of the retaliation of the chiefs. Hitherto there has been no occasion to enforce respect between the lower and higher orders. Politeness seems to be an inherent quality of Easterns of these parts. It would be a strange proceeding for a civilised Govern- ment to have to punish a native publican, because he did not cringe on hands and knees before his superiors, or walk twenty yards round behind his back, rather than pass within a few yards before his face. Yet this is strictly in accord with native modes of respect. If chiefs 320 TEX YEAES EX SARAWAK. lose the respect of their people, it is owing to bad beha- viour and gross manners ; for however poor the}' may be, though obliged to pull or paddle, or work with the low r er orders, still the stranger even of low rank would give him the due to which his birth entitles him. In out-stations, where the Government has erected forts and appointed European Residents, courts also have been established for the administration of justice, in which native cases are settled by their chiefs according to Mahommedan law, and under the general super- intendence of the European, before whom all compli- cated cases are brought, and the natives are, with few exceptions, willing to abide by his single impartial opinion, when prejudice and ties of relationship have too much warped the perceptive faculties of their own chiefs to permit them to judge fairly. All cases of murder are referred to the Supreme Court in Sarawak. Such crimes as the sale of free people, or claiming old and bygone debts of persons who are unable to pay, or the use of sharp-edged weapons for the purpose of doing primitive justice, are the most important, and they are not infrequent. But as years have gone on these odious practices have much decreased, and the thought of the consequence, in most instances, counteracts the desire of committing any downright outrageous deed. With the Malay and Chinese traders there are sur- ADMINISTRATION AND CUSTOMS. 321 prisingly few cases for settlement, and there is more danger of an European doing too much than too little in the way of government proceedings. The extreme justice of some of their laws cannot fail to excite our admiration for the original legislator. Eor instance : in cases of parents dying intestate, there would be no distinction made between the children in the division of the property ; and a child by an acknow- ledged slave mistress would receive as large a share as a son or daughter by the legitimate wife. An established rule provides twice as much for the male as for the female. The chief rules of the social system are clearly named and defined in the Koran, as they were in the Old Testament. Many, fortunately, have become obso- lete, and at present are only practised in very ignorant and base Mahommedan Governments ; such as the de- privation of fingers for the crime of theft, deliberately making it difficult or impossible for the criminal ever after to earn an honest livelihood. Natives, as a rule, are remarkably cool in the delivery of their statements, and the chiefs have great clearness of perception ; but the more ignorant have a peculiar way of mixing up one sentence with another, which? unless a judge has a very good knowledge of the lan- guage, puzzles him extremely. They have — though not quite universally — a remark- VOL. II. Y 322 TEN YEAES IN SABAWAK. able power over their countenances, and can assume a polite smile, or maintain silent gravity, whenever they please. I have frequently seen men hear the sentence of death passed upon them without a single twinge, and afterwards sit down and receive the fatal stroke without a quiver or a sign. They are prone to lavish the usual Asiatic compli- ments at the commencement of any speech or conver- sation ; but further than this, mere effusion of words, they are not cringing, except when grossly oppressed by their Rajahs and rulers. Their polite bearing may deceive an European in this respect. Eor instance, they never pass in front of another without bending low, and asking his pardon. They would much rather go round behind his back. Their etiquette is to sit down in presence of anyone, and the grades of rank decide the highest seat ; but in most instances all prefer to be on the same level. A native is not comfortable in the delivery of a message while in a standing attitude ; and before drinking they also invariably squat. But as these simple details of Eastern manners and customs are so generally known to Europeans, I will not prolong the account. THE CIIURCH. 323 II.— THE PLACE AND DUTY OF MISSIONARIES. On the subject of the kind of tuition which is best adapted for a primitive people there are so many differences of opinion, that it is desirable to view it with the greatest circumspection and care. To begin with, the hardships and wearisome work of a missionary who has to live among such aborigines as the Dyaks, must be taken into consideration, and with all possible charity and indulgence. It may safely be averred that our John Bull constitution is scarcely well adapted for such a life. He has to feel the pulse, as it were, of their dispositions, to become perfectly acquainted with the habitual working of their minds ; and the more time he takes in this apparently idle kind of study, the more surely will success attend his subsequent endeavours. To strike before the time, or to sow before the land is sufficiently broken, is energy misdirected. Let the natives, first of all, see plainly that an interest is taken in them, and that every kind of respect is shown to their customs, however barbarous and unpleasant they may be. Let the teacher run with the tide for some years, though not at the expense of his own self-respect, civi- lised character, or bearing. He should not attempt to abuse them as infidels, heathens, and unbelievers — for no T 2 324 TEN YEAES IN SAEaWAK. race is so unenlightened as not to be sensitive to words bringing a disgrace upon the customs of their forefathers. Customs cannot be accounted for, and the gradual awakening of fresh ideas, though a slow and tiresome method, is the only plan for replacing olden ways with golden lights. The more gradually the former are allowed to linger and die out, the more surely will the new take root. Few Englishmen can bring themselves to such a tedious life as that of the judicious mis- sionary presents. We are social and joyful individuals as a race. The missionary has not excitement or means of active employment like officers of other services. It may safely be said that the Sarawak mission, speak- ing in comparison with others, has been, and is doing, its work. It has been attended with more speedy results in the way of conversion than the mission in New Zealand, where “ for fifteen years missionaries were like men crying in the wilderness, and they frequently said they were casting their seed on a rock.” * But after this period of seemingly fruitless endeavour the con- version spread in that country like wildfire — far too rapidly indeed for substantial and permanent good, as mission labour without the cudgel of a civilised govern- ment and laws is utterly futile, and can be of no * Thomson’s work, “Story of New Zealand. MISSIONARIES. 325 service. The first effects of Christianity, if not con- trolled, are supineness and love of lording it over the others. These are the evils, but there are numerous counterbalancing advantages. Still, without discouraging any missionary endeavours, facts should be bravely stated and difficulties stared in the face. The conversion of the Dyaks would be the means of strengthening the Government beyond measure. It has been occasionally hinted that the government of Sara- wak has not exerted its influence to assist Missionary labours. Such remarks might be listened to in England ; but no man experienced in the position of such a govern- ment and its relation to the inhabitants, — depending, as- it does principally, on the protection of an unpaid, Mahommedan police force, which has with very few exceptions proved honest and true, — could entertain a doubt, that the correct and only possible policy was pursued. It was the duty of the Government — semi- native as it is — to be a supporter of no one religion in. preference to another, and to protect all alike. If the- Government had attempted to push Christianity, such a course would have inevitably led to the ruin of both itself and the Mission also, and barbarous massacres of the Europeans would have followed. A good deal more might be said to show the advisability and propriety of an impartial rule — and the success heretofore attendant, 326 TEX YEARS IX SARAWAK. both in the social and the religious welfare of Sarawak, is sufficient reward and proof that the plan has been rightly directed. As for schools among natives for the education of the simple Dyaks, it is beyond doubt that such establish- ments would be of the greatest service to the people, and would be attended by the youthful community if proper care were taken, and competent teachers could be procured. But it is not desirable that any of the native tribes should be intermixed with Chinese or other races, as they would seriously and rapidly degenerate to the rascalities of the more civilised children, and would soon learn to despise their parents and relatives. Out-station schools are greatly wanted, and it is to be regretted that the Government has not established secular ones among the different principal stations, which might teach read- ing, writing, arithmetic, and the English tongue, with- out mention of any creed. After boys had advanced sufficiently to be able to write and read, they should return to their people, and keep up a regular corre- spondence with the Resident of the station, respecting the many occurrences which are now unknown for want of communication. A point to be borne steadily in mind is, that a native should not be permitted to lose pride in himself or his tribe, for when separated, unless he happens to be a MISSIONARIES. 327 very superior individual, he will drift as a straw before the wind. It may safely be remarked, that the Mission field in Borneo is as fair a one for labour as could be found throughout the world, and the principal part of the population are peculiarly fitted, in consequence of their amiable qualities and gentle disposition, to receive tuition and be led to conversion by their teachers. Yet it is a work of time and patience, and the life of one man can only brush a few stones out of the rugged path. Others must afterwards place the foundation and gradually erect the edifice. The greatest advance has been made by two Mis- sionary gentlemen, one residing at Banting, the other at Lundu. The first conversion was made in the former place by the Rev. Mr. Chambers, now many years ago, and subsequently a church has been built, and a con- gregation of between one and two hundred people attend service — with only a few of the intelligent chiefs. The reception of Christianity was quite optional with these natives, who had previously received the rudiments of religious education, before baptism was permitted. In Lundu, the Rev. Mr. Gomez’s efforts have also been attended with success. The principal chief is a good Christian, and has the extra qualification of being in- dustrious and desirous of improving agriculture. Bor the last two years he has taken to ploughing his farm. 328 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. This may appear a very frivolous affair to the multitude, but it is a most important commencement. Mr. Gomez may feel very proud. It would be an experiment worth the trial to place a gentleman on his first arrival in Sarawak to live among the Dyaks, by building a house immediately adjoining their long habitations, and to be dependent on them for protection, &c. His success would much depend upon himself and his general temperament, for it would be a trying position for many months until he could talk and understand the language sufficiently to afford him conversation and occupation. They might mutually assist one another in various ways. There would be comparatively little danger of life or property, and he would occupy a superior position, and eventually obtain a great moral influence over them. It should be remembered that none of the previous observations on native conversions apply to the Ma- hommedan part of the population ; for they are bound to their creed too passionately and permanently to be shaken, and non-interference with it should be main- tained strictly both in words and acts. The mission school in Sarawak is principally for the purpose of educating the children of the Chinese popu- lation, and many very respectably educated boys have now situations both in Singapore and different places along this coast. They talk and write very decent MISSIONARIES. 329 English, and are quick in calculations. The music and singing of the children in church surprise strangers on their visits here, and the sweetness and compass of their voices surpass many country choirs in England. I will conclude these remarks by stating, that I am at a loss to know how a mission could be really successful in its endeavours without a strong responsible Govern- ment to bear the brunt of the many evils and heart- burnings arising necessarily between tribes and peoples, giving rise to successful and unsuccessful wars and strife. Besides, it is natural as well as true, that a missionary should look over his flock with a partial eye. Those Avho have listened and been instructed by him, cannot stand in the same category as others who are so frequently termed infidels, heathens, &c., in their reports — who have turned away with a deaf ear, and remained trud to the creed of their forefathers. No two institutions should be more definitely separated than the Church and the civil Government in countries, such as Sarawak and many others, where missionary labour is required. It is my opinion that this should be laid down as an invariable principle. If missionaries consider it their duty to take part in military exercises, their societies should provide a greater abundance of arms and ammunition than Bibles and prayer-books. This, however, does not refer to the Sarawak mission. 330 TEN YEAES IN SARAWAK. as the Government was established in the first instance ; but more particularly to other countries, such as New Zealand, and parts of Southern Africa. III.— POPULATION AND MIXTURE OF EACES. It is to be regretted that a more accurate census, up to the present time, has not been taken in this country; but the difficulties have been almost insur- mountable. The first and most important of all lessons for a ruler of such countries as this, is to guard against decrease and decay of the aborigines. The question is, whether it be not an indispensable and irreparable natural law, that the weaker should succumb and die out before the stronger. Other reasons have been advanced with various shaded of truth and doubt. One is, that women work too hard to bear and rear children. A third, that the food of the New Zealander, for example, has deteriorated, — potatoes in lieu of fish and ferns.* A third is, that the system of breeding in and in rapidly produces disease and scrofula, and consequent degeneration. If the law be an irremediable one — that aborigines must give way for * Thomson’s “ Story of New Zealand.” N.B. The Irish multiply on potato food. POPULATION AND PACES. 331 a higher class of people, ancl become extinct after a lapse of years, then the best and most should be made out of what seems an evil in nature’s law, although, perhaps, ultimately a blessing. Before taking into consideration whether there are yet signs of depopulation in these regions, let us set before ourselves one or two questions. First, what suitable population can be found for a country whose climate is not adapted for the permanent residence of Anglo-Saxons ? This being without any doubt the case, is it not a matter of great importance to speculate how these countries are to gain a people who would be better adapted to develope their resources? It is my conviction that a time will arrive when by modifications of races, resulting from intermixture and amalgamation through marriage, a kind of in- habitants will be found who can make such a country their permanent home. Time, and successive periods of change and generations, will thus bring about a good cross betwixt the black race, who are deficient in mental organisation and other qualities, and the white, whose thinness of skull and nervous system are too delicately constituted to cope with the trying warmth and melting heat of these latitudes. Since writing the above, I have seen some extracts from a work by Dr. Moore, some part of which I quote in reference to Indian climate. He says : “ The melan- 332 TEX YEARS IN SARAWAK. choly truth is, that the European race dies out. Of the numerous pensioners, &c., &c., there is not one single instance — there is not a great-grand-child or grand- child of these pensioners retaining their European cha- racteristics. An infusion of native blood is essential to the continuance of the race. The fact is, for the white man, or his offspring, there is no such thing as acclima- tisation in India. Exposure, instead of hardening the system, actually has the contrary effect, and the longer Europeans remain in this country, the more they feel the effects of the vertical sun.” Intermarriages, after the bitter prejudices are somewhat smoothed and broken, will effect this change, and Anglo-Chinese, Malays, and other coloured people, it is to be conjectured, will, at a future period, provide themselves with European help- mates. The Chinese are fair as a race, and their half-caste children might receive an European education, and would, after generations, be as fair, and it is to be hoped, as respectable as many races in Europe. There is no reason to think for an instant that a China- man would not make as amiable and kind a husband as an European. White people may lose their fantas- tical notions and prejudices of the nursery respecting dark-coloured people ere long. An instance of this prejudice occurred not long ago. I had been con- POPULATION AND PACES. 333 versing for some time with a lady, who possessed considerable talent, and was far above the average in accomplishments. Her little baby was being tossed about by a dark nurse in the same room ; and so much kind bearing did she show towards the child, that I was led to make a few remarks on the efficiency of native nurses, who are invariably so much loved by children. Our conversation terminated by the lady expressing emphatically her feelings for black nurses and people. She said, “ However good and kind they may be, I can never overcome my prejudice, which was instilled into me from the nursery, that black people are revolting in the extreme, and my heart shakes even when I see one near me. The stories I have listened to from old nurses of the cold-blooded murders, stealing of children, and eating them, &c., &c., can never be extinguished.” The change might gradually be wrought by half-caste children of Europeans in these parts. In fine, I repeat, if the parent stock is to become extinct (not that there is any appearance of that being the case at present), it is to be hoped that their children will gradually merge into a more enlightened race, better qualified in every way for the duties required of them. We may frankly admit that such a people as the Anglo-Saxon is a mere inter- loper in these waters ; and how can it be supposed that those who are only to remain a short period, in con- 334 TEN YEAES IN SAEaWAK. sequence of loss of health and general debility in constitution, can be the ultimate rulers and inhabitants ? It should be far from our wish that this should be the case, as the desire of most is now to make a fortune, and return as soon as possible to their fatherland. These countries, it is to be hoped, will have steadfast populations and rulers, and when a sufficient modifica- tion has taken place among a number of races combining certain qualities which are modified and amalgamated in their progeny, the right people will be found to live in the right place, and the present wish of running to our mother’s apron-strings will be abandoned. Pride of race is the hitch at present which hinders amalgamation, but Englishmen have advanced to these regions, and will be regularly succeeded until all the idle follies of one race being better than another will vanish. Eor each race is equally proud of itself, and the glory of dynasties and clanships is gloated over in narrowness of spirit as much by blacks as whites. Again, England’s sons, far from retreating, will merge gradually into a different people. This has been the case in nearly every part of the world, and have not the same prejudices and drawbacks always been found at the first setting-in of change? Englishmen may to a certain extent deteriorate, but they will become more adapted for their work as permanent inhabitants. POPULATION AND PACES. 335 They would rapidly multiply and regain pride and self- esteem, besides gradually acquiring that spirit of emulation so essential to every population under a new regime. It may be added here, that there are two sub- divisions of tribes all but extinct in the Sarawak terri- tory. One of the principal reasons for their decay and decrease may, at all events, be attributed to marrying and breeding in and in. There are about six doors, left of these unfortunates in one place, who are a branch of the Singgei Dyaks, residing up the Sarawak river, and on a visit to them some years ago, they despondently told us that their women refused to fructify, and asked in what manner such a misfortune could be remedied. The other remnant of a branch tribe is an offshoot from the Malanau race, now not mustering more than thirty or forty doors, and much scattered in very small com- munities. Their men are noted for bravery, but are very poor, and more dirty than the other people whose numbers and power have much oppressed them. They are named Suru, and reside on the smaller streams of the Kaluka and Rejang waters. These two instances are, however, exceptions, for there is far from being any appearance of decay among the principal Dyak tribes, whose fecundity, on an average, produces four or five births to every married woman. The barren females are 336 TEN TEAES IN SAEaWAK. not over one in five among the Sakarang and Saribus Dyaks, whereas the proportion is over one in three in New Zealand, and the entire population of that country scarcely amounts to a twentieth part of the population of Sarawak, and only equals in number some of the most populous rivers in Borneo. As a proof of the increase of the Byak population, we have only to make inquiry into the localities where they live, both past and present, and the result shows that populations have migrated to rivers farther and farther removed from their original abode — which remains at the same time as thickly populated as the land will permit. To offer one instance of the multiplying process, I will mention the upper Batang Lupar river, which has now a population of eighteen or twenty thousand souls residing on it, and has emitted a supply, about fifty years ago, to a neighbouring stream (a tributary of Rejang), from which a population has now increased to from ten to twelve thousand souls, without the aid of any intermixture from other directions. Many other instances might be adduced of a similar nature, which have come under my immediate observation. On the subject of marrying in and in, it is to be observed that Dyak customs prohibit any near con- sanguineous nuptials, and they are more particular in this respect than Europeans. They consider first cousins POPULATION AND PACES. 337 in the light of brothers and sisters, and a further removal only entitles a customary marriage. Nieces are not al- lowed to marry their uncles, nor nephews their aunts. They are particular in these points, and the person who disregards them is harshly reproached, and heavily mulcted. The practice of infanticide is rarely heard of; but the contact with the Malays has much increased it in some tribes. However, as the Government has now con- siderable influence with these people, it is to be hoped that a few gentle and judicious regulations will effectually stop it, and that eventually this crime will be punished as an infringement of the law. It is worthy of remark before closing this subject of decrease of populations, and modification of races through amalgamation of marriage, that the few half- castes in this country by Anglo-Saxon fathers have not been considered a healthy and strong progeny, and there are many examples to confirm this statement. However, this fact in no measure refutes the theory, for, according to established rules of breeding, too sudden and great a contrast between the parents produces a somewhat im- perfect offspring, and it has been found that the next generation of children considerably improved. Progressive changes take place unaccountably and imperceptibly, and in most instances nothing is known or seen but the effect produced. Without any wish to VOL. II. Z 338 TEN YEAES IN SAEaWAK. turn a serious subject into ridicule, it is my belief, that if the Chinese had had the opportunities of finding white women in China, as the aboriginal population of Australia might have done, had they been so adapted, much good might have sprung from those liberal exports of unem- ployed females, sent by kindly-intentioned ladies in England, to the poor gold-diggers in a foreign region. The good that doubtless would have resulted, would have been the peopling a large country with a popula- tion adapted to live on its soil. A few instances have occurred of Chinamen marrying Europeans, although they were not of a very favourable character. Nature to a certain extent tells her own story, that Europeans should multiply abroad by taking perhaps a worse half, instead of a better one, and giving the offspring a part only of the white, out of which the most could be made. With the other half would descend a constitution better able to endure the climate, and lead to increase of population with an elasticity of mental and physical organisation, that would be capable of modification and enlightenment in their original clime. If this text had been adhered to from our first possession of India, we should in all probability have had to deal with no mutinies and other troubles resulting from holding our- selves too much aloof, being too exclusive, and too care- less of native rights, sympathies, and interests. Far be POPULATION AND RACES. 339 it from my wish to make any remarks that may be liable to the charge of disregarding strict rules of pro- priety and morality. But I can never believe that such conventional modes of etiquette can remain stable in the East, where flesh and blood are so different. As Disraeli says, “ What is the nature of man ? In every clime, and every creed, we shall find a new definition.” APPENDIX. TABLE I . — Table showing the ratio of sickness and mortality in the Sar&wak Government Hospital and Dispensary for the six months ending December, 18G3. I Died. ^ r* rH 1 1 ||lllli