PRINCETON, N.J. ' 
 
 Purchased by the Hammill Missior.ary Fund. 
 
 DS 413 .M58 
 
 Mitchell, Maria Hay Flyter, 
 
 d. 1907. 
 Scenes in Southern India 
 
1 
 
SCENES 
 
 IN 
 
 Southern India. 
 
 BY 
 
 MRS. MURRAY MITCHELL. 
 
 WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 AMERICAN TRACT SOCIETY, 
 
 150 NASSAU STREET, NEW YORK. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2015 
 
 https://archive.org/details/scenesinsouthernOOmitc_0 
 
INTRODUCTORY NOTE. 
 
 My wife asks me to write a preface to her book, and 
 I have agreed to do it ; but I find very Httle to say that 
 is not better said in the book itself 
 
 We have many works on India, but not many writ- 
 ten by women. This one, it is hoped, may accordingly 
 help to fill up a blank. On several subjects, especially 
 those connected with family life in the East, women are 
 much better qualified to speak than men. 
 
 The book refers to Southern India, the Presidency 
 of Madras. It is always well to remember that there is 
 as much diversity between two parts of India as between 
 two parts of Europe ; that, for cxamjjle, a native of 
 Travancore is as different from a Bengali, as a Spaniard 
 from a Swede. Missionary work, too, has a peculiar 
 aspect in the south of India, inasmuch as it began nearly 
 * a century earlier than in Bengal, and more than a cen- 
 tury before its commencement in Bombay. Hence, in 
 some respects, it has a different character in the Madras 
 Presidency. 
 
 It will not detract from the value of these pages that 
 the writer was able to compare one part of India w ith 
 another. Missionary work, however, is by no means 
 the only io\)\c referred to in this little book. Mrs. 
 Mitchell took a lively interest in nearly everything she 
 
4 
 
 INTRODUCTORY NOTE. 
 
 saw ; and she has endeavored to give a faithful descrip- 
 tion of what has most occupied her attention. 
 
 We had for many years been famihar v.ilh mission- 
 ary efforts both in the west and north of India, and it 
 was the fulfilhnent of a long-cherished hope when we 
 were at length able to visit the chief missions of the 
 South. What we saw awakened the deepest possible 
 interest. We were also able to take part, to a con- 
 siderable extent, in the work ; so that the visit might 
 be called an evangelistic tour. The welcome we every- 
 where received, both from the missionaries and the 
 native Christians, will ever remain with us as a delight- 
 ful memory. Nor can we forget the kindly greetings 
 of many others who were not professedly Christians, 
 but who seemed fully convinced that they had no truer 
 friends than the missionaries. 
 
 India is at present in a state of transition, and not of 
 slow transition. No change recorded in history was of 
 greater magnitude than that which is now going on ; 
 and the issues, social, religious, political, will be in 
 every way momentous. This little work will not have 
 been written in vain if it may serve to extend a knowl- 
 edge of Indian life and character, increase the interest 
 felt in missionary work — especially as carried on among 
 women — and deepen in the mind of Britain a sense of 
 national responsibility to God in connection with her 
 great Eastern dependency. 
 
 J. MURRAY MITCHELL. 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 TEMPLE OF KUMDHAKONAM, SOUTHERN IN- 
 DIA Frojttispiece. 
 
 MADRAS SURF ^4 
 
 A WATER-CARRIER 53 
 
 PLOUGHING 32 
 
 SCHWARTZ 7S 
 
 TEMPLE OF SUDRAHMANYA, TANJORE . . . ^6 
 
 TANK AND TEMPLE AT MADURA . . . .1^6 
 
 BELL-MUSIC USED AT DEVIL-WORSHIP . . .136 
 
 POUNDING RICE 142 
 
 BULLOCK CART 164 
 
 NAGERCOIL CHURCH 174 
 
 MAHARAJAH OF TRAVANCORE {From a photograph) iSo 
 
 SISTER OF THE MAHARAJAH {From a photograph) . iSo 
 
 A HINDOO BEGGAR 202 
 
 A HINDOO BRAHMIN 230 
 
 BOATS ON THE BACKWATER 252 
 
 SCENES IN TRAVANCORE 290 
 
 A SCENE ON THE BACKWATER 320 
 
 TODAS 75./ 
 
 1 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 We Begin our Missionary Journey 9 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Poona. Sholapore 17 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Madras 31 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Madras. Female Work 42 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Chingleput 61 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 The Early Missions to India 72 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 Tanjore 80 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Dindigal. Its Medical Mission 104 
 
CONTENTS. 7 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Madura and its Missions 119 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 Madura and its Temples 130 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 Tinnevelly. Palamcotta 143 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Travancore. Nagercoil 166 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Woman's Work. Sunday at Nagercoil 185 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 Cape Comorin 196 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Neyoor. Pareychaley 211 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 Trevandrum 228 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 The Backwater 247 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Cottayam : its Missions. The Syrian Christians of Malabar 25S 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Cottayam: Sunday Service ;vnioiig the Syrian Christians . 278 
 
8 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 The Hill Arriaiis of Travaiicore 290 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Cochin: The White and Black Jews 303 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 Trichoor 317 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 Coimbatore 334 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 The Neilgherries 338 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 The Todas and a Toda-Mund 353 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 Homeward 367 
 
SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 WE BEGIN OUR MISSIONARY JOURNEY. 
 
 January 15, 1882. 
 The dawn was spreading softly over earth and 
 sky yesterday morning when, after a more sub- 
 stantial chota hajri or preliminary breakfast than 
 usual, we stood in the veranda equipped for the 
 start. 
 
 Our starting-point was Bombay, where we had 
 been staying some weeks with our kind friends, 
 Mr. and Mrs. Miller. . . . 
 
 We had to leave early to catch the morning 
 train for Poona and the Deccan. The morningr 
 is always the best part of our Indian day, and I 
 am almost sure that it is also the most beautiful. 
 As I stood watching the sweet silver dawn steal 
 gently up and dispel the darkness and mystery of 
 night, I thought it was not so wonderful that the 
 impressionable, dreamy old poets of ancient India 
 
lO SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 should have made her one of their divinities. The 
 Dawn is one of the earliest Hindoo goddesses. 
 She is called Ushas, and is described with poetic 
 grace as "a mother come to awake her sleeping 
 children." The contemplation of nature in her 
 sublime and exquisite aspects no doubt led to her 
 adoration among those old Rishis, for they were 
 ignorant of him who is the God and Framer of 
 nature and did not hear her voice aright. Surely 
 nothing ever declared his glory with more elo- 
 quent speech than this pure, blue, beauteous, cold- 
 weather dawn ! It is so peaceful, yet so gladsome, 
 so fresh, and so suggestive of hope. 
 
 As I gazed on the lovely scene from the ver- 
 anda I thought our dear old Bombay had never 
 looked more beautiful. The chief feature in the 
 scene was the great, calm, peaceful sea, of the 
 deepest indigo blue, beginning now to sparkle in 
 the rays of the rising sun, stretching to the far 
 horizon and rippling up on the rocks at our feet 
 with musical murmur. An immense fleet of fish- 
 ing craft with white sails gleamed in the dis- 
 tance; there were also one or two large ships with 
 sails .set to catch the morning breeze; while nearer 
 the shore, here and there, a tall-masted pattiinar 
 or cargo-boat glided past, helped on by the oar. 
 Flocks of silver-winged gulls rode on the blue 
 wavelets hunting for their breakfast, and down 
 
WE BEGIN OUR MISSIONARY JOURNEY. II 
 
 among the rocks one or two tall-necked cranes 
 stalked majestically, similarly engaged. 
 
 Along the margin white-robed Parsis, in their 
 high, picturesque head-gear of dark calico, stood 
 facing the sea, muttering prayers, gentlemen and 
 ladies galloped along the good wide road, while 
 babies and ayahs and dogs and servants and po- 
 nies passed in grand retinue, all bound for the 
 early walk. Every one who is wise tries to ex- 
 tract what vigor is to be had from the fresh air of 
 morning in India. As we drove away from the 
 hospitable door I am not sure that I was so elated 
 as I ought to have been to think that a long-cher- 
 ished dream was about to be realized and we were 
 indeed oflF to see the mission fields of South India. 
 
 We were tired, for we had had an exciting 
 week. This was due to the visit of the famous 
 Boston lecturer, Mr. Joseph Cook, and his charm- 
 ing wife. . . . The wonderfully able lectures, the 
 crowds, the growing interest of Mr. Cook's utter- 
 ances, the dinners, the meetings, and the univer- 
 sal entertaining, were all so thoroughly enjoyed 
 that our energies were naturally used up. 
 
 This most stirring visit was indeed an im- 
 mense success. I never saw our native friends 
 gather in more enthusiastic crowds than they did 
 to every lecture, whatever the hour. Is it not a 
 fact worth noting and something to be thankful 
 
12 
 
 SCENES IN SUOTIIERN INDIA. 
 
 for that a man like Mr. Cook can come out to 
 India and find at once, over the length and breadth 
 of it, audiences of English-speaking, educated na- 
 tive gentlemen ready to hear and understand and 
 appreciate all he has to say to them? I hope 
 such visits from men of mark, both European and 
 American, may henceforth be of more frequent 
 occurrence. 
 
 One of the social gatherings held in honor of 
 our distinguished guests was to myself the most 
 interesting by far. This was an entertainment 
 given by the Native Christian Union of Bombay. 
 It took place in the large upper hall of the Free 
 Church Institution, which, when all had assem- 
 bled, presented quite a striking spectacle. The 
 place was prettily decorated. Round the room 
 sat rows of native Christians of all degrees — 
 fathers, mothers, and children, while numerous 
 groups occupied the centre. Many nationalities 
 were represented, Hindoos, Parsis, Europeans, 
 Americans, East Indians, etc. ; and every mission, 
 I think, in Bombay contributed its quota of guests, 
 both European and native. Many friends too had 
 come from Poona and other out-stations to be 
 present, and altogether the assemblage was large 
 and most interesting. The costumes were of 
 course very varied, and the whole scene was full 
 of color and animation and picturesqueness. It 
 
WE BEGIN OUR MISSIONARY JOURNEY. I3 
 
 was also full of sujrs^estiveness. One's heart could 
 not but thrill with thankfulness and joy at such a 
 sight. These men and women are the fruit of 
 missionary effort, part of the great ingathering 
 from the Gentile world, the vision of which filled 
 our Lord himself with holy joy when he said, "I, 
 if I be lifted up from the earth, will draw all 
 men unto me." 
 
 I had the good fortune to sit beside an Ameri- 
 can stranger, a lady whose face was beaming with 
 benevolence. "What a sight!" she exclaimed. 
 "Can all these indeed be Christians? I would 
 have come all the way from America if only to 
 witness this scene and to meet these people. How 
 is it," she added, " that people say missions have 
 had no success ?' ' 
 
 How indeed ? All one can say is that it is as 
 if a man went forth at noonday, bandaged his 
 eyes, and then declared that there was no sun shi- 
 ning in the heavens. I brought some of our nice 
 native Christian girls to introduce to her, some of 
 the workers in the schools and zenanas, and also 
 some of the daughters of the bright Christian 
 homes which now happily are multiplying in the 
 land. They looked very neat and dainty in their 
 pretty native dress, the sari^ in diflerent hues. I 
 was much plea.sed afterwards when the lady re- 
 marked not only on their intelligence, but the 
 
14 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 modesty and general propriety of demeanor they 
 evinced, which indeed is characteristic of Hindoo 
 ladies. 
 
 Among women of the higher castes in India 
 there is a wonderful amount of natural refine- 
 ment, with a certain attractive gentleness and 
 quiet self-restraint of manner. You feel this in 
 visiting among them. I have gone into the most 
 squalid and unpromising zenana and yet found at 
 once that I was among ladies. The poor things 
 may be only half clad, very sad and crushed look- 
 ing, all their surroundings (which often are little 
 more than bare dirty walls) may be utterly sordid 
 and mean, and yet they will receive you with all 
 the quiet courtesy of gentlefolks. Of course I 
 know how easily all this can be marred and how 
 spoiled one of these women is if she becomes bold 
 or too suddenly adopts the free manners of the 
 West. The peril lies in a too rapid transition 
 from the restraints which Eastern customs enjoin 
 and a premature introduction into general society, 
 which is public life to one who has lived her life 
 previously in the seclusion of a Hindoo home. 
 Freedom must come, but let it come gradually — 
 let it come last ! First let the soul be set free ! 
 "The soul must be educated," as one of them- 
 selves truly says. When this takes place, when 
 our Eastern sisters have received the truth, and 
 
WE BEGIN OUR MISSIONARY JOURNEY. I5 
 
 the truth has made them free, then they will be 
 free indeed; and to their own pleasant heritage of 
 womanly decorum will be added the ornament of 
 "a meek and quiet spirit, which in the sight of 
 God is of great price. ' ' 
 
 After tea Mr. Cook gave us an address, which 
 as usual was most stirring. In speaking of the 
 difficulties with which missionaries have to con- 
 tend he made use of a happy illustration. He 
 compared the work to the building of a light- 
 house. He said there is so much important and 
 preliminary labor to be done first below the sur- 
 face of the water — blasting of rocks, building of 
 foundations, much buffeting with the waves — and 
 all to be bravely endured and overcome. But 
 when all this is accomplished the majestic tower 
 begins to rise. The worst is over, the difficulties 
 are mastered, the grand purpose is achieved — the 
 light appears! And, thank God, it will go on 
 and shine for evermore. 
 
 All the strangers remarked on the beautiful 
 exhibition of Christian union which the native 
 churches of India generally present. This is true. 
 In these days of division the brotherly love and 
 mutual trust and common purpose often found 
 existing among the Christians all over India cheer 
 one's heart unspeakably. Long may this condi- 
 tion of things last ! 
 
l6 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 Our beautiful Western Ghats were as beauti- 
 ful as ever as we ascended yesterday and the rail- 
 way line as striking as usual. Our train zig- 
 zagged its seemingly perilous path, first up the 
 gentle green slopes, then, as it got higher, round 
 precipitous crags, skirting deep gorges and stu- 
 pendous precipices, pursuing its way slowly and 
 steadily from ridge to ridge through the sinuosi- 
 ties of the chain, until at length we got to the top 
 of the great mountain wall and the huge panting 
 engine drew up in the pretty station of Khandala. 
 We had left the Konkan, with its wavy palm- 
 trees and rich tropical vegetation and cultivated 
 lands and moist, warm air, lying far below on the 
 margin by the sea, and had mounted to the brown 
 plains and fresher air of the Deccan plateau. 
 
 Late in the evening we reached our goal for 
 this day, the dear old mission-house at Poona, 
 where the warmest of welcomes always awaits us. 
 
POONA. SHOLAPORE. 
 
 17 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 POONA. SHOLAPORE. 
 
 January 24. 
 
 We had another exciting day, for the Cooks 
 joined us in Poona and were also the guests of 
 Mr. and Mrs. Beaumont in the mission-house. . . 
 
 In the evening we all went in company to 
 the Hira-bag to hear Mr. Cook's lecture. This 
 is a large hall standing by itself in some pretty 
 grounds on the outskirts of the native city, beside 
 a beautiful tank filled with water, on which some 
 water-lilies float, and just under the temple-crown- 
 ed, picturesque little sacred hill of Parbutty. 
 The hall was densely packed with all manner of 
 people come to hear the celebrated lecturer, and 
 crowds stood about every door and window. 
 
 Now, as always in Poona, the striking part of 
 the audience was the number of fine-looking, 
 fine-featured Hindoo gentlemen, the elite oi native 
 society, who filled the benches — remarkable-look- 
 ing men in white garb, strictly national, with 
 huge red or white turbans, wonderfully fair in 
 complexion, with the keen, intellectual counte- 
 nance of the Maratha Brahman. 
 
 a cenei Id Southein IntJU. 
 
 2 
 
i8 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 These are Hindoos of the Hindoos — not half- 
 Europeanized, like the Bengali Baboos — though 
 they are as thoroughly educated, and many of 
 them first-rate speakers themselves. They are in- 
 tensely national, and naturally so. Poona was the 
 capital of the Maratha empire, and the Peshwas — 
 the rulers — being themselves Brahmans, they 
 were great patrons of their caste. The present 
 inhabitants naturally look back with a wistful 
 eye to the glories — real or imaginary — of the old 
 days of Maratha supremacy; and whatever old 
 national beliefs and customs they can possibly re- 
 tain they do retain. Politics seem to occupy 
 their attention more than religion, and sometimes 
 they no doubt practise the rites of Hindooism 
 without believing in their efficacy. They are 
 sometimes extremely severe in their criticism on 
 the measures of Government, though most of them 
 are far too high-minded and honorable to be con- 
 sciously unjust. 
 
 Such an intelligent people are sure to advance. 
 Education, missionary influence, and other forces 
 have done their work. Destruction of the old 
 faith has come, but the reconstruction has yet to 
 come. What is needed is a touch from the life- 
 giving Spirit of the living God, that the train 
 which has been so diligently laid by all the influ- 
 ences, at work may be fired by divine power. Then 
 
rOONA. SHOLAPORE. 
 
 19 
 
 we should see this fine, interesting people, with 
 so many noble qualities, flocking to the feet of 
 Christ. The pity is that Christianity comes to 
 them as the religion of the conqueror. This cir- 
 cumstance, of course, increases the difficulty of 
 the missionaries' task. But more faith and prayer 
 and earnest work, more pleading with Him whose 
 cause it is, would bring down that quickening 
 power without which nothing that man can do 
 will avail. 
 
 As I sat watching the thoughtful faces, and 
 the effect of Mr. Cook's stirring words upon them, 
 I could not help praying that some of those sharp 
 arrows from above, so effectual in the Spirit's 
 hand, would come direct to some of these men — 
 such as was shot into the mind of Luther when 
 he exclaimed, "The just shall live by faith!" 
 Thus would they become the best apostles and 
 teachers of their countrymen, and the salvation 
 of God would come to this people. 
 
 We had to leave before the meeting closed; 
 we rushed to our train, secured a good second- 
 class carriage to ourselves, spread our quilts on 
 the hard benches, slept as well as we could un- 
 der the circumstances, and before daybreak, shiv- 
 ering in the cold of the Deccan morning, we 
 arrived at Sholapore. A special pleasure has 
 awaited us here in being the guests of our dear 
 
20 
 
 SCENES IN- SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 old friends the Johnstones, Mr. Johnstone being; 
 now assistant judge of this station. 
 
 There is a flourishing branch mission of the 
 American Board in Sholapore, and Rev. Mr. 
 Gates and his wife are at the head of it. She has 
 come of a missionar\- family, her father being 
 our old friend the Rev. Mr. Hazen of Ahmedna- 
 gar. I have had her on my knee when a baby. 
 There are several of these mi5sionar\- families 
 who have done noble serv ice in the foreign fleld ; 
 and many dark places of the earth would be still 
 darker but for the energ}* and practical wisdom 
 which the Americans bring to bear on all that 
 they do. British people, to whom India has been 
 especially entrusted, ought to be grateful to their 
 American friends for their zealous and successful 
 work among the heathen. 
 
 One of the most interesting parts of Mr. Gates' 
 mission is the medical department It is con- 
 ducted by a native practitioner, who seems to 
 manage it admirably. We visited him and his 
 wife this morning, and saw their own neat little 
 dwelling as well as the dispensar\-, both under 
 one roof, and literally smothered by a lovely mass 
 of creeping convolvulus. The patients pay for 
 their medicines; and it is remarkable that though 
 there are three dispensaries in the city where 
 medicines are free, yet the numbers who come to 
 
POONA. SHOLAPORE. 
 
 21 
 
 the mission increase day by day. Let us hope 
 that the medicine for their souls which they also 
 receive may be part of the attraction ! Mr. Gates 
 thinks it is so, lor many of the patients in their 
 sorrow and suffering seem to hear the divine Word 
 gladly. 
 
 Among those who came to-day was a native 
 Christian from a village called Watwad, a place 
 about seventy-five miles northeast of Sholapore, 
 in the Xizam's dominions. It seems that this 
 village is the centre of an indigenous and most 
 hopeful little mission; and the stor>' of the en- 
 trance of light into that dark region is so interest- 
 ing that I think I must relate it. 
 
 Nearly seventeen years ago a gosavi^ or reli- 
 gious mendicant, named Mhasoba, was sent to 
 prison by the well-known Meadows Taylor for 
 cattle-stealing. While in prison he happily 
 learned to read. He had a friend, another gosavi, 
 who, after Mhasoba's release, came to him, tell- 
 ing him he had heard of some new, strange doc- 
 trines taught by white missionaries and he wanted 
 to find out what these doctrines were. "You 
 now can read," he said; "you can help me to 
 find out what it all means." 
 
 The two men consulted together, and de- 
 cided they would go and .seek for the missiona- 
 ries, who, they heard, were to be found at Sliola- 
 
22 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 pore. After a weary trudge of many days, to 
 Sholapore they came. 
 
 The missionary who was laboring then at this 
 station was Mr. Hazen, Mrs. Gates' father, who 
 lias now returned to America. He received the 
 wayfarers most kindly, hearing their request, so 
 similar to that of the Greeks to Philip, "We 
 would see Jesus." He instructed them, gave 
 them tracts and books, one of which was called 
 "The True Way," and pointed them to Him 
 who is "the Way, the Truth, and the Life." 
 They carried the books back to their village, 
 where Mhasoba read them aloud to his fellow- 
 inquirers and the rest of the people. After much 
 thought and study and earnest prayer, seeking 
 the Lord with sincere hearts, if "haply they 
 might feel after him and find him," they did 
 find him, as every real seeker does, and made up 
 their minds that they would enter on this new 
 way and become Christians. But they did not 
 quite know how, and it was years before they 
 had an opportunity of being baptized. 
 
 At length, in the cold season of 1874, the Rev, 
 Mr. Park, lately of the American Mission, Bom- 
 bay, was itinerating in the district. Mhasoba 
 heard of his arrival and came twenty miles to see 
 the missionary and ask to be baptized. He had 
 had no human instructor, only the little books. 
 
POONA. SHOLAPORE. 23 
 
 blessed by the teaching of the Holy Ghost; but 
 I\Ir. Park found him prepared. Like the Ethio- 
 pian of old, he believed with all his heart. He 
 had manifestly received the baptism of the Spirit, 
 so Mr. Park administered the ordinance to him 
 and his wife, and to two other men whom he had 
 instructed. 
 
 After this the missionaries visited the village 
 occasionally, about once a year or so; but Mhaso- 
 ba and the other converts have carried on the 
 work themselves. He taught his daughter to 
 read, and she now regularly teaches the other wo- 
 men to read and sew and sing. The work has 
 spread to other villages, and now there are sixty 
 adults baptized. These people receive no regular 
 pecuniary help from the parent mission in Shola- 
 pore. They work at their calling, whatever that 
 may be, and give regularly — of their great pover- 
 ty often — that Christ's cause may spread among 
 their people. At the same time every convert 
 seems to be an evangelist. Even the women, Mr. 
 Gates says, go many miles to other villages, often 
 carrv'ing their infants in their arms, to tell other 
 women the joyful news; and gladly are they wel- 
 comed everywhere. The people beg these Chris- 
 tians to come and teach them and lead them also 
 into the "true way." They have a schoolroom 
 and a little church, which, strange to say, the 
 
24 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 heathen people in the village helped them to 
 build. They got but very small contributions to- 
 wards the buildings from the mission funds. 
 
 These Christians are chiefly Mangs, a low 
 caste; but physically they are fine men, and are 
 often of manly, independent character. 
 
 After we had seen what our friends had to 
 show us in the mission we went on to visit the 
 fine old temple of Sideshwar, which occupies one 
 side of a handsome large tank. We also saw the 
 fort, which covers an immense area. The walls 
 and ramparts are in excellent preservation, and 
 there is a wide moat all round with some water in 
 it and some lovely water-lilies. A legend says 
 that when this fort was being built the walls re- 
 peatedly tumbled down. This misfortune was, of 
 course, attributed, not to any fault in the work, 
 but to the malignity of a certain deity. So, in 
 order to propitiate the angry god and to cure this 
 unsatisfactory state of matters, it was resolved to 
 oflTer a human sacrifice. Accordingly a woman 
 and a boy were buried alive in the foundations, 
 after which the walls fell down no more. We 
 were told that the Brahman familv, who had the 
 honor of contributing the victims for the sacrifice 
 actually now receive a pension in consideration of 
 this act of devotion and patriotism ! 
 
 Dr. Mitchell preached twice on Sunday, the 
 
POONA. SHOLAPORE. 25 
 
 morning service being chiefly for the officials con- 
 nected with the railway and their families, on 
 each of whom he afterwards called, meeting with 
 the most cordial reception. Our country-people 
 here are often thankful for the visit of a minister. 
 In the railway community alone in Sholapore 
 there are 58 men and women who are Protestants, 
 a few being East-Indian, but most are English. 
 In the evening the whole station gathered into 
 the pretty little station church, and again we had 
 a most refreshing service. 
 
 Dr. Mitchell has now proceeded along the line 
 to hold services for other people who occupy iso- 
 lated positions in out-of-the-way stations and are 
 often too much neglected as far as the ordinances 
 of religion are concerned. It has been arranged 
 that I shall rejoin him at Raichore, en route to 
 Madras. 
 
 After a visit of unceasing enjoyment, having 
 seen everything there is to see and met everybody 
 there is to meet in this most social abode, I pre- 
 pared, with our excellent factotum Joseph, to de- 
 part. 
 
 At two in the morning of the 26th I turned 
 our friends' dwelling upside down by having to 
 start, there being no train suitable at a less incon- 
 venient hour; and my kindest of hosts insisted on 
 escorting me. His influence with the powers of 
 
26 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 the railway procured me a carriage free, at least 
 of hiiinan company. I took possession, and knew 
 little more until the dawn looked in at the win- 
 dows and woke me up to the noise and monotony 
 and dust and fatigue and all the general discom- 
 fort of a long Indian railway journey. But pres- 
 ently, at our next halt, my prince of domestics 
 appeared in his noiseless way at the door with a 
 cup of tea in his hand, whence procured I cannot 
 tell, for Joseph is not a man of speech; "deeds, 
 not words," being his motto. After this I could 
 look more at the bright side of things, especially 
 as by this time dawn had turned to day; the sun 
 shone joyously over the wide -spread plain and 
 was not yet too fiery for comfort. 
 
 The country in this part of the Deccan is not 
 pretty. Now and then we passed towns with 
 great gateways and the remains of fortifications, 
 which in the old troublous times of incessant tur- 
 moil and war were needful for their protection. 
 There were occasional villages also surrounded by 
 old mud-walls to protect them from dacoits and 
 marauders and other unwelcome visitors, now 
 peacefully crumbling to ruin. On the outskirts 
 of the towns there were generally a few trees to 
 be seen; but, beyond these, our route was mostly 
 over vast plains, brown, bare, burned up, and per- 
 fect solitudes, as far as human habitation went, 
 
POONA. SHOLAPORE. 
 
 27 
 
 liaving little and very imperfect cultivation. The 
 stations, however, always prettily decorated with 
 shrubs and flowers, were full of life and most 
 amusino^, and we had plenty of time to enjoy the 
 sii^hts they presented. Though this was the mail- 
 train we stopped very often and halted very long; 
 manifestly time did not count for much. 
 
 At the station for Hyderabad I noticed some 
 unusually fine men, with grand, flowing beards, 
 much latent fire in their handsome faces, and 
 swords at their sides. They accompanied a Mus- 
 sulman grandee, who was seated on a remarkably 
 beautiful black horse, with scarlet saddle-cloth 
 and trappings of gold and silver, whose gorgeous 
 appearance altogether suggested Akbar or Hyder 
 Ali. One or two elephants, with glittering how- 
 dahs, stood in the background tossing their fine 
 trunks about, and these helped the illusion. 
 
 The poor women squat about the platforms, 
 very helpless-looking, but in wonderfully pictu- 
 resque groups, clothed in their Turkey-red cloths 
 and surrounded by their little naked, brown chil- 
 dren and quantities o{ giciries, the inevitable bun- 
 dle without which no Hindoo can travel. One 
 young creature, with dark, Madrassee face and 
 her jet-black hair drawn to one side of her head 
 in a huge knot, stalked past with a bottle poised 
 on her head, at the same time carrying an infailt 
 
28 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 in her arms and showing the utmost freedom and 
 grace of movement. How gracefully these wo- 
 men contrive to wear the sari^ the long, scarf-like 
 garment which is the usual dress of Hindoo wo- 
 men. It is wound round the person, with the 
 end carried over the head, after the modest fash- 
 ion of most Eastern women. This garment may- 
 be colored or white. Generally the higher class- 
 es wear it of some color, while servants and ayahs 
 wear it white; but all with gay bordering round 
 and very elaborate ends. The prevailing color 
 in this region, I observe, is red in a variety of 
 shades. 
 
 One certainly has excellent opportunities at 
 the stations, as you pass along, of observing the 
 marvellous variety there is in this extraordinary 
 country of race, form, feature, color, costume, 
 head-gear, and everything. People congregate, 
 from the most respectable of native gentry down 
 to the wretched fakir smeared with paint and 
 ashes and the grinning little gypsy boys and 
 girls, who turn somersaults and hold up their 
 dirty little palms to the carriage windows for a 
 pice. The interest is never-ending. 
 
 Early in the afternoon we crossed the broad 
 bed of the Krishna River. In the rains this is a 
 magnificent, sea -like stream, but now it was 
 simply a wide expanse of sand, with a few 
 
POOXA. SHOLAPORE. 
 
 29 
 
 small, shallow streamlets flowing dully here and 
 there. 
 
 Soon after this we got to Raichore, where I 
 spied my husband waiting on the platform. He 
 had had one or two hearty meetings, and altogeth- 
 er enjoyed the little ministry in these "regions 
 beyond. ' ' 
 
 The heat is much greater here than in the re- 
 gions from which we have come and has not tend- 
 ed to cure my husband's fever, so it is with some 
 anxiety we face the long night-journey before us. 
 AVe changed into the carriages of the Madras 
 Railway and got into a tiny box of a second-class 
 compartment, with very narrow and ver\- hard 
 benches; but we had it to ourselves. There was 
 water in it and every convenience, and it gave me 
 occupation to battle with the thick, white, stifling 
 dust and keep ourselves tolerably clean. 
 
 I had noticed early in my journey that in a 
 compartment for women next to mine a native 
 lady was travelling alone, and often when we 
 stopped I got out and spoke to her, sometimes go- 
 ing in to keep her company between two stations. 
 She was extremely nice and intelligent and talked 
 Hindostani. Her husband, she told me, was in 
 anotlier compartment, hers being the zenana of 
 the train. At Raichore he introduced himself to 
 Dr. Mitchell and politely asked him to thank me 
 
30 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 for my attention to his wife. We found she was 
 the daughter of Sir T. Madhavarao, of Baroda, and 
 he a Brahman occupying a high official position 
 in the native court of Travancore. We became 
 great friends, and he proved to be a very clever, 
 highly-educated man, speaking English with a 
 purity of accent I have rarely heard from any but 
 an Englishman. They had been at Baroda for 
 the grand doings when the new Gaekwar was in- 
 stalled, and were now returning to Trevandrum. 
 They begged us to come and see them when we 
 ourselves should reach that place. In spite of the 
 dreadful heat and fatigue and dust we managed to 
 get a little sleep, and about six next morning we 
 swept into the station at Madras. 
 
MADRAS. 
 
 31 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 MADRAS. 
 
 February r. 
 
 Any one who has undergone a hot, dusty 
 journey of twenty-six hours on hard benches in 
 India will comprehend how pleasant it was to 
 feel that we had arrived, and I shall not easily 
 forget our feeling of gratitude to Him who had so 
 graciously "preserved our going out and our com- 
 ing in," now, as in so many wanderings by sea 
 and land. It was indeed a welcome sight as we 
 got out of our dusty little den to spy our friend 
 Mr. Rae, of the Free Church Mission, waiting 
 for us, he and his wife having most hospitably 
 claimed us as their guests. We were soon driven 
 to the Mission Boarding-school, which is their 
 home at present, Mrs. Rac having lately under- 
 taken the superintendence of it. 
 
 It is quite in accordance with the tradition of 
 this good old school that a missionary lady should 
 be at its head. Many of our best missionaries 
 have occupied the post, whose names deserve to 
 be held in grateful and lasting remembrance as 
 having borne the heat and burden of the troublous 
 day which saw female education started in Madras; 
 
32 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 and now it is delightful to find Mrs. Rae taking 
 up the work heart and soul. She and hers have 
 just removed from their pleasant, roomy house, 
 with its grounds and garden, to the circumscribed 
 quarters which the upper floor of this school offers. 
 I need not add that our hostess is the author of 
 "Morag" and some other delightful books. 
 
 She stood on the steps as we drove up to the 
 door, ready to welcome us, with her children at 
 her side — fair little creatures, with curly hair and 
 dainty, airy attire, which looked cool in the heat 
 of the too brilliant morning. They looked won- 
 deringly at the strangers, but had none of the 
 shyness most English children have. We were 
 soon installed in our comfortable quarters, and, 
 after a good bath and some tea, were ready for 
 anything. The two bairnies, who soon made up 
 their minds to be friendly, brought us out, each 
 with a hand, to receive our first visitors. These 
 were the two native clergymen, Mr. Rajahgopal 
 and Mr. Bauboo, well-known names. Principal 
 ]\Iiller and Mr. Cooper, of the Christian College, 
 speedily followed. We all breakfasted together, 
 and erelong we had been welcomed by all the 
 missionaries of our own church and many others 
 besides. 
 
 I soon found my way down stairs among Mrs. 
 Rae's large flock of schoolgirls and normal pupils. 
 
MADRAS. 33 
 
 with their teacher, Mrs. Harris, and was glad to 
 find some old acquaintances among them whom I 
 had seen on a former visit. One of the most im- 
 portant and interesting parts of j\Irs. Rae's work 
 is a Bible-class for advanced students, which she 
 conducts every day, Sundays and week-days, from 
 seven to eight in the morning. I delight in this 
 hour, with its admirable instruction for the train- 
 ing of teachers and workers who are to go out by- 
 and-by among the zenanas and day-schools. 
 
 Since the first hour of our arrival we have 
 been as busy as possible, and it is hard to find 
 leisure for one's pen. Our sight-seeing has been 
 almost entirely confined to schools and other op- 
 erations of the kind, the single regret being that, 
 as our time is so short, we cannot see all the work 
 of all the missions in this great centre as we 
 should desire. 
 
 Madras differs in a good many points from the 
 other cities of India we have seen. The European 
 part is of immense extent and has far more beauty 
 to show than I remembered. The houses are 
 large, two-storied, and exceedingly handsome. 
 They arc surrounded by extensive gardens and 
 grounds, wonderfully green, and ornamented by 
 clumps of fine trees and shrubs and evergreens 
 in all the luxuriance of beautiful tropical foliage. 
 These residences, standing in their park-like in- 
 
34 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 closures, extend for miles chiefly along the shore, 
 and there is a sense of delightful expansiveness 
 everywhere as if space counted for nothing, which 
 is extremely pleasant in so very hot a climate. 
 This is altogether different from crowded Bombay, 
 where every foot of ground is of value. If Wash- 
 ington is called "the city of magnificent dis- 
 tances," much more, I am sure, may Madras be 
 so. 
 
 It is certainly strange for situation. It was an 
 odd idea to plant a great city down on a long sea- 
 shore without reference to bays or harbors, or 
 even a reasonably safe approach by the natural 
 way to it, the sea. On this coast the surf-wave 
 is very dangerous; even in fine weather it rises 
 several feet; and every one knows what it means 
 to land at Madras when the weather is at all 
 tempestuous. I have found it quite exciting to 
 watch the catamarans cut through the boiling 
 surf on a stormy evening. They disappear en- 
 tirely for a few moments, and you think it is all 
 over with the poor fishennen crew. But no; they 
 hold on somehow to their frail-looking barks and 
 emerge presently none the worse, shaking them- 
 selves free from the white foam like so many 
 water-dogs. The dark skins, happily, do not 
 seem to attract the numerous sharks so readily as 
 white ones would do in similar circumstances. 
 
f 
 
MADRAS. 
 
 35 
 
 An unusually wide and beautifully-kept road 
 stretches along the beach for miles. This is the 
 Drive, where every one comes of an evening for 
 a breath of cool air from the sea to bring some 
 fresh life into the poor frame, weary and limp 
 from the pitiless heat of the tropical day. 
 
 I am bound to admit that there are two draw- 
 backs to the full enjoyment of a visit to Madras — 
 the wearing heat, which is terribly trying even 
 in the so-called "cold weather," and the un- 
 speakable plague of mosquitoes, which seem to 
 be of the most malignant, wicked type. They 
 attack one with a fierce pertinacity I have seldom 
 seen equalled; they buzz, sting, stab, until you 
 are fairly driven frantic with the irritation to both 
 nerves and skin. 
 
 One of the first objects which would attract 
 your notice if you should happen to cast anchor 
 in the roadstead of Madras would be the line of 
 handsome buildings which form the headquarters 
 of the old-established and well-known Free Church 
 Mission. First in the line comes the Boarding- 
 school, corresponding in decoration and appear- 
 ance with its next neighbor, the Christian Col- 
 lege, which is a very handsome and extensive 
 building. Next comes the Free church, and, 
 last, the Evangelistic Memorial Hall. These pre- 
 sent an imposing front to the sea and certainly 
 
36 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 give the mission a striking and desirable visibility 
 in the eyes of the natives. There is a new and 
 handsome veranda added to this school, whicli is 
 our favorite haunt. It is shady and cool and 
 bowery with numbers of pretty plants, and offers 
 a glorious view of the sea. 
 
 Why Madras has been called the "benighted 
 Presidency" is always a puzzle to me. At all 
 events, it no longer deserves the epithet, for I 
 believe there is no city in India where education 
 and missionary enterprise have had more success. 
 Female education especially has made most en- 
 couraging progress, and this is always a test of 
 enlightenment and advance. We have spent one 
 of the most interesting and delightful mornings I 
 remember in seeing the Christian College, under 
 the auspices of its able and excellent principal. 
 Dr. Miller. He took us all over it, from the low- 
 est class-room for beginners to the highest section 
 for the advanced students of the college. 
 
 This noble catholic institution has grown out 
 of the Free Church Institute, which was founded 
 by the Rev. J. Anderson in 1837. It is still 
 maintained chiefly by the Free Church, but the 
 Church Missionary and Wesleyan Societies also 
 contribute to its support, and the professors are 
 drawn from various evangelical churches. The 
 story is still told how, at its commencement, the 
 
MADRAS. 
 
 37 
 
 death-blow was given to all caste distinctions 
 within its walls. The year after it was opened 
 the admirable John Anderson admitted two very 
 low-caste boys, with the immediate result that 
 the whole of the two hundred and fifty good-caste 
 pupils took their departure. Great commotion 
 followed. Pressure was brought to bear on the 
 bold innovator to get him to eject the offending 
 Pariahs, but he was firm as a rock. He went on 
 with his two low-caste pupils until the rest should 
 come to their senses, which they gradually did. 
 They thought better of it and returned, and from 
 that day to this the claims of caste have had no 
 recognition in this college, though planted in the 
 very heart of this caste-ridden Presidency. 
 
 Again, this uncompromising missionary told 
 his pupils openly that his grand object and aim 
 was to teach them Christ and His religion and 
 win their countrymen for Him; consequently the 
 chief feature of his teaching would be the Chris- 
 tian's book— the Bible, the Word of God. That 
 was the chief feature in Mr. Anderson's time, and 
 I am glad to say it is the chief feature still. The 
 most interesting and stirring classes we saw were 
 those for Bible knowledge, and, judging from the 
 eager, earnest look with which the pupils received 
 the lesson, I should say that the P>ible-class is one 
 of the most popular in the work of the day. 
 
38 vSCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 Unfortunately the college is not yet in full 
 working order, as the pupils are only gathering 
 after the recess. But the class-rooms are full and 
 the benches crowded, and still candidates for ad- 
 mission are flocking to the doors. Every boy 
 puts himself into as small a space as possible, 
 trying to make room for a friend; but, after all, 
 many have to be refused. It was sad to see num- 
 bers of disappointed lads hanging about the cor- 
 ridors disconsolate when not another one could 
 possibly be admitted. The school, already so 
 large, could be increased to any extent if there 
 was only more room. Indeed, the pursuit of 
 knowledge presented itself in some of its droll 
 aspects, especially in the rooms for beginners, 
 where you find the very rawest material. I no- 
 ticed one tall, lanky youth towering beside a very 
 small boy, with a high white cap on his head like 
 that of a French cook, who stood next above him 
 in the class. The wee fellow hardly came to the 
 other's knee, but he was as keen as a needle and 
 preternaturally quick. He kept surreptitiously 
 prompting his tall friend, who had evidently be- 
 gun learning too late in life, though he was in- 
 tensely earnest about it. It was touching to see 
 the two, the little one trying to hide the deficien- 
 cies of the older and looking all the time out of 
 the corner of his quick eye to sec whether Dr. 
 
MADRAS. 39 
 
 Miller noticed, which, of course, he did, but said 
 nothing; he only smiled at the small Ramasamy 
 and gave a playful pinch to his ear as we were 
 going out. 
 
 The large classes filled with such motley 
 material were most interesting and rather pictu- 
 resque. The head-gear was especially remarkable 
 and varied, the huge white bunchy turban pre- 
 dominating. There were no bare heads with 
 short-cropped hair, as in Bengal; every head had 
 something on it in the shape of turban. The 
 Madrassees are dark-complexioned — more so a 
 good deal than the Marathas — with open, good- 
 humored expression, and more thoughtful in look 
 than sharp. Poor fellows! I was very sorry for 
 some of them, waiting to know the result of the 
 university examinations. There was a look of 
 expectancy on some of the faces and of sore anx- 
 iety on others; some seemed full of despair and 
 others defiant. What was their fate to be? Who 
 would "pass"? Who would be "plucked"? 
 These were the momentous questions which were 
 pressing on every heart. One could not but sym- 
 pathize — so much depended upon it in their fu- 
 ture — and yet it was difficult to suppress a smile 
 at some of the countenances, so full of woe. 
 
 Their kind master understood them all. He 
 addressed many by name (and the Madras names 
 
40 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 are very puzzling to a new ear), individualizing 
 each among the hundreds present, spoke words of 
 cheer to some, of playful reproach to others, and 
 of sympathy and kindness to all. I was amazed 
 to see how he could keep all their different cases 
 in his memory — like a doctor among his patients; 
 but many a nice, good, honest face looked brighter 
 after Dr. Miller had passed through and dropped 
 a kind and stimulating word here and there. He 
 has manifestly gained the entire confidence and 
 affection of the lads. He is the moving spirit of 
 the whole, but he is most ably seconded by an 
 admirable staff of missionary professors and na- 
 tive teachers. We saw IMr. Paterson amid his 
 philosophical and chemical apparatus, Mr. Rae 
 at his delightful Bible-class, and, indeed, all of 
 them — each at his own particular and important 
 work. 
 
 It is indeed a noble institution, numbering 
 over 1,300, taking school and college together. 
 It is acknowledged to be the most influential of 
 all the educational institutions in South India 
 and in advance of all similar establishments in 
 this city in attendance, popularity, and in the 
 number of men it now passes. In university 
 honors it stands first. But, what is of infinitely 
 more importance, the whole influence, the genius 
 of the place, is Christianity. The flower of the 
 
MADRAS. 
 
 41 
 
 youth of South India are here presented with 
 Bible truth by men who are themselves deeply 
 imbued with the spirit of truth; and thus this 
 college is a centre whence Christian enlighten- 
 ment is spreading, surely and steadily, not only 
 in the city of Madras, but in all the Presidency. 
 
43 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 MADRAS. FEMALE WORK. 
 
 We have had two or three good mornings' 
 work in seeing the girls' schools connected with 
 our own mission. I am sorry we have had time 
 for hardly any others. One day our friend Mr. 
 Rajahgopal called for us and took us over those 
 in which he has special interest, and another day 
 Mr. and Mrs. Bauboo conducted us in like man- 
 ner over a number which they have ably superin- 
 tended for many years. These were all day- 
 schools, admirably conducted, and both attractive 
 and interesting. 
 
 Female education has made very considerable 
 progress in Madras. It has had a checkered his- 
 tory, like similar efforts in the other Presidencies. 
 There was a fight, of course, at the commence- 
 ment — a hard struggle with seemingly insupera- 
 ble difficulties, ups and downs, hopes and fears; 
 but with determination, energy, perseverance, and 
 unfailing faith the cause has been fought by every 
 missionary who successively settled in the coun- 
 try. The early Danish missionaries tried to es- 
 tablish schools for girls, and every society which 
 
MADRAS. 
 
 FEMALE WORK. 
 
 43 
 
 came after them followed their example and did 
 its best. Some brave and devoted women, whose 
 names are still remembered with veneration, suc- 
 ceeded, after many self-denying efforts, in estab- 
 lishing orphanages and a few small day-schools. 
 But their experience was the same as that of all 
 the early workers in the same cause: they could 
 only manage to reach the very lowest of the peo- 
 ple. A few orphans were gathered in and some 
 poor children of the lowest castes; and this was so 
 far a happy commencement and answered its own 
 important end; but the great Hindoo community 
 remained utterly untouched. It was reserved for 
 three Scottish missionaries — a singular triumvi- 
 rate of much -honored men, Messrs. Anderson, 
 Johnstone, and Braidwood — to succeed and estab- 
 lish what we may really call female education iu 
 this part of India. They had successfully intro- 
 duced high-class English education for the men, 
 and now, with immense difficulty, by very slow 
 degrees, and by God's blessing and help, they ac- 
 complished the same for the women. 
 
 It was in 1843 '^^t Mrs. Braidwood managed 
 to get in the thin end of the wedge by gathering 
 a few good-caste girls into what is still called the 
 "Madras Girls' Day-school." Graphic pictures 
 are often given on the spot of the way she toiled 
 and struggled, and how the gentlemen aided by 
 
44 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA, 
 
 bringing their influence to bear on the young hus- 
 bands and brothers who were being taught in the 
 Institution or English School. Indeed, without 
 the cooperation of these educated young men the 
 work could never have been done. She added 
 tlie inducement of liberal presents, both in money 
 and dress, and so the end was achieved, and she 
 had the joy of seeing a few gathered in to receive 
 the merest elements of education, of course in 
 their mother-tongue. Mrs. Anderson joined the 
 mission soon after and threw herself heart and 
 soul into the grand work. It is delightful to 
 think that this excellent lady is still in the field, 
 and with plenty of freshness and vigor. She is 
 now watching over her spiritual children and 
 children's children in the native church, and she 
 is a mother in Israel to the whole community. It 
 was a great pleasure indeed to meet her again. 
 
 So the great question was practically settled. 
 Female education, once fairly started, went stead- 
 ily on. The prejudice of ages began to give way; 
 and no one can doubt that the movement thus 
 commenced will eventually work a great social 
 and religious revolution in the condition of the 
 people. 
 
 But in 1847 a check was experienced from the 
 very success of the work. Five of the pupils be- 
 came Christians and were baptised. This created 
 
MADRAS. FEMALE WORK. 
 
 45 
 
 a panic, and the school was emptied for a time. 
 The five girls took refuge in the mission-house; 
 but a home was needed for them, and for others 
 who, through God's blessing on the Scriptural 
 teaching, might happily follow their example. 
 This resulted in the formation of the boarding- 
 school, which was thus begun as an asylum and 
 school for Christian girls, and has ever since been 
 as a nursery for Christ in the mission. The day- 
 school, the first, as I said, for caste girls ever 
 opened in the city, soon recovered from the shock 
 it had received by reason of the baptisms. It was 
 soon as full as ever. Other schools were opened 
 in other parts, and now there are twelve such 
 day-schools in connection with the Free Church, 
 having an aggregate attendance of over 1,400. 
 Altogether, counting also the pupils in the zena- 
 nas, those in poor and ragged schools, those in the 
 Boarding-school for Christian Girls, and the stu- 
 dents in the Normal School, we have the large 
 number of 1,800 females under Christian instruc- 
 tion. 
 
 Other agencies also are at work, such as zena- 
 na-teaching, Sunday-schools, and Bible-women's 
 work. The people generally arc eager for educa- 
 tion; the women want it for themselves, and the 
 men want it for their wives and daughters. Thus 
 the little seed planted with so many tears, but 
 
46 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 with patience and faith and prayer, forty years 
 ago has grown into a goodly tree, which — who 
 can doubt ? — will one day fill the land. One 
 thing which has struck us in visiting the schools 
 is that the buildings and class-rooms are so suita- 
 ble and good. I confess I covet similar ones for 
 other places not so highly favored. 
 
 Mr. Rajahgopal's new building for his Chetty 
 school is specially handsome — a cool, convenient, 
 spacious house, with verandas, stone floors, green 
 blinds, benches, and plenty of bright pictures on 
 the walls, including one of Her Majesty the 
 Queen. I only wish the friends of the cause at 
 home could see the winsome little creatures who 
 fill the rooms, so dainty and bedizened, so intelli- 
 gent too and bright, answering the questions put 
 to them with eager readiness, their wonderful 
 dark eyes fixed on your face all the time in a 
 way, to me, quite bewitching. Their knowledge 
 of Bible history would have done credit to any 
 Sunday-school in Scotland. They questioned 
 each other too in an amusing way; and to hear 
 them sing such hymns as "Jesus loves me," and 
 their own sweet Tamil lyrics, was a delight not to 
 be forgotten. 
 
 The Chetties are a very good caste, though 
 lower than Brahmans, and are the merchants of 
 Madras. Like other good castes they keep en- 
 
MADRAS. 
 
 FEMALE WORK. 
 
 47 
 
 tirely to themselves and do not intermarry with 
 any other. 
 
 They still manifest much opposition to the 
 gospel and do not quite like the Christian teach- 
 ing for their girls. So they have set up some op- 
 position schools in which the education is gratis, 
 while we charge fees. Still, mission work among 
 them goes steadily on, making progress both 
 among the children and the women in their 
 homes. Some most encouraging incidents show- 
 ing this were related to me by Mr. Rajahgopal. 
 The Chetties are a very rich commimity, and the 
 amount of beautiful jewels they heap on their 
 children is wonderful to see. 
 
 Mr. Rajahgopal has a capital ragged-school, 
 which was one of the most interesting we saw. 
 He has some 250 poor little boys and girls, all of 
 them waifs or orphans, many of whom are fed and 
 clothed, and all have more or less education given 
 them. It is very nice to see them occupying de- 
 lightful premises lent to Mr. Rajahgopal by Gov- 
 ernment, with excellent schoolrooms, a large com- 
 pound, in which there is plenty of room to play 
 and fine fresh air. An industrial department add- 
 ed would be a great boon, with trades for the boys 
 and some simple, paying industry for the girls. 
 
 But what, I think, delighted me most in all 
 that we saw was Mr. Bauboo's Normal School, 
 
48 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA, 
 
 which is one most important part of his work. I 
 cannot tell the interest with which I looked at the 
 forty pupils and talked to them, all well-educated, 
 intelligent, Christian young women, pleasant and 
 bright in manner and cultivated in appearance. 
 It was most delightful to think of the possibilities 
 for the future they presented in increase of schools 
 and other work for women ; for these students are 
 pledged to become teachers, and as soon as they 
 are ready they are drafted into work of some sort. 
 From the boarding-school also, and Dr. Elder's 
 schools and Mr. Rajahgopal's, pupils have passed 
 the Government teachers' examinations, and it is 
 one of the most hopeful features of the work that 
 most of the teachers in the day-schools are well- 
 trained native Christian women. 
 
 A great quantity of pretty needlework was dis- 
 played in every school, and the children and their 
 mothers like it and are proud of their achieve- 
 ments in the way of rugs, cushions, slippers, and 
 smokiug-caps. They are also fond of their little 
 hymns and sing them with might and main, both 
 in school and in their homes. 
 
 Of course, Bible-teaching is the chief feature 
 in every kind of school, but all the instruction is 
 first-rate. There is a Government inspectress to 
 see that the work is thorough and up to the pre- 
 scribed standards, and grants in aid are provided 
 
MADRAS. FEMALE WORK. 
 
 49 
 
 by Government. In one point, I am sorry to say, 
 Madras is just as much behind as other places. 
 Girls are not allowed to remain in school after 
 they are married, and early marriage is, unhappi- 
 ly, as much the rule now as it has been for ages. 
 You hardly see a pupil in the classes over thir- 
 teen, and most of the children are under ten. 
 Zenana-visiting, then, is as important here as 
 elsewhere, in order that the girls after they are 
 betrothed may be followed to their homes, and 
 their education, only commenced in school, may 
 be carried on and completed. There is this hap- 
 py difference between the women of Madras and 
 their sisters in Bengal: they are not so much shut 
 up, their houses are not so like prisons. I fancy 
 that the Mohammedan conquest did not influence 
 the South so much as other parts of India, and 
 consequently did not revolutionize society by in- 
 troducing Mohammedan customs, preeminently 
 those affecting the treatment of women. But in 
 character the women are all much alike. They 
 ask the same foolish questions here about your 
 children and husband, and your motives for com- 
 ing to India, and especially why you visit them. 
 It seems hard for tlicm to believe that the only 
 reason is to try and do them good. 
 
 It ought to be confessed that zenana-visiting 
 is often trying and disappointing. Thus, on a lit- 
 
 bceuon lu Suuttiern ludU. A 
 
50 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 tie tour to-day, accompanying Miss Oxley, of the 
 Church of England Zenana Society, we visited in 
 the house of a Persian gentleman whose ladies 
 kept us waiting and then appeared in fine English 
 clothes, put on, I suppose, in honor of our visit. 
 The dresses were made in the xery height of Paris 
 fashion, of rose-colored and pale blue silk ! But 
 with their rich olive complexion and generally 
 Oriental style they did not look quite so ridicu- 
 lous as )-ou would suppose. They would talk of 
 nothing but clothes and wanted to examine every 
 article we had on. This is the sort of thing which 
 tries the zenana visitor. However, there was a 
 strong redeeming point in two bright, intelligent 
 young girls, very fair and pretty, who are Miss 
 Oxley's pupils, and full of interest in what 
 they read and desire to learn. They seemed 
 rather ashamed of their gay, talkative elder rela- 
 tives. 
 
 Let us, then, sympathize with our dear zenana 
 missionaries and help them with our prayers, 
 thanking God always because these sad homes 
 have been penetrated, and because we know that 
 there are not a few within their walls who have 
 learned to know and love Christ through the loving 
 labors of the missionaries. These are of Christ's 
 "hidden ones," and, though not known to the 
 world, they are known to Him. Ah ! they some- 
 
MADRAS. FEMALE WORK. 
 
 51 
 
 times ask questions very different from those I 
 have alluded to. They gaze at you with those 
 large, liquid eyes, which look as if the fountain 
 of their tears was very close, and ask, "Why are 
 we so different from you ? Could we not enjoy 
 the world and be free like you?" They are in- 
 deed more to be pitied now than ever. Why? 
 Because a glimmering of light has penetrated 
 the darkness of these homes; they see their 
 bonds. Formerly they did not know they were 
 bound. Now they do; and they have a suspi- 
 cion that a better fate might be theirs. The 
 fair world outside they too might enjoy; there is 
 a position they might attain to — a Father above 
 who might be theirs as well as ours. "You are 
 like that dove," said one young woman to me, 
 pointing to a bird on the wing. " You are like 
 the bird soaring to heaven: we are like that same 
 bird caught, its wings clipped, and shut up in a 
 cage too narrow to hold it." 
 
 Mrs. Rae and I had nearly experienced one of 
 those little misadventures this morning to which 
 one is prone in a "city of magnificent distances," 
 as I said Madras is. We set out at eleven in a 
 "bandy." Let me explain that a bandy is the 
 cab of Madras, a narrow, oblong l)ox set on four 
 little wheels with high, hard scats, a well to con- 
 tain your feet, and Venetian windows, which will 
 
52 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 neither let down nor go up. It rattles loudly, 
 and is drawn by a lean and hungry-looking horse, 
 which is made to go spasmodically by the long 
 handle of the whip continually applied to his 
 flanks. The half-clad, keen-witted driver is 
 perched aloft on the roof. 
 
 We drove for many miles through fiery heat 
 and blinding glare and dust to call on a lady I 
 particularly wanted to see. When we drew up 
 at length below the porch of a splendid mansion, 
 a small box was handed to us by "the boy" at 
 the door, a scarlet-robed, white-bearded official 
 with a belt across his breast. The box had a slit 
 in the top, like a child's missionary box, and the 
 words "Not at home" faced us in big, porten- 
 tous letters. 
 
 In answer to our remonstrances the civil 
 "boy" assured us that madame was out. We 
 deposited our cards in the slit, but were hardly at 
 the gate when the man came shouting after us. 
 Madame, after all, was at home, and would like 
 to see us. Most pleasant it was to exchange the 
 hot, dusty bandy for the cool, shady, pretty draw- 
 ing-room and have the talk we wanted with the 
 agreeable, lady-like woman who welcomed us 
 witli great cordiality and warmth. 
 
 On our return my husband joined us, and we 
 looked in at the Government Normal School, 
 
PLOUOHING, 
 
MADRAS. FEMALE WORK. 
 
 53 
 
 superintended by Miss Rajahgopal, where Euro- 
 peans and East Indians are trained. We were 
 specially pleased with the preparatory school in 
 connection with it, in which there is a charming 
 infant department, conducted on the Kindergar- 
 ten system. Here we saw groups of happy little 
 bright creatures busy playing at learning. This 
 is all carried on by the Normal pupils, who are 
 thus taught to teach after the best and brightest 
 and most sensible plan. 
 
 It is curious how much more English is talked 
 in Madras than either in Bombay or Calcutta. 
 You hear it everj'where. Not only do the ser- 
 vants address you in tolerably good English, but 
 the poor bandy men, and even the coolies on the 
 street, seem to know a smattering. It is often an 
 odd jumble as to idiom, but not the monstrosity 
 that "pigeon English " is in China. This preva- 
 lence of our own language is a great comfort to 
 strangers like ourselves, to whom the unknown 
 tongues of the South are a perplexity and a draw- 
 back. For once we have the sorrow of being 
 unable to speak to the people of India in their 
 own tongue. Hindostani is a sort of lingua 
 franca^ which carries one almost anywhere else; 
 but it is of little use in Madras. 
 
 Tamil is the chief language of the people 
 here; but there are four or five Southern tongues 
 
54 
 
 SCEXES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 which are as closely allied to each other as the 
 languages of Southern Europe. These belong to 
 the Dravidian dialects, which of course diflfer en- 
 tirely from Marathi or Hindi or any which come 
 mainly from the Sanscrit, though my husband 
 says Sans(;rit words are freely introduced into 
 them. Of these languages Tamil seems to be the 
 most cultivated, though it sounds to the ear harsh 
 and unpleasant, the words running into each other 
 in a sort of rippling stream, instead of distinct 
 utterance. Tamil has a literature of no small 
 antiquity. There is, for example, a great ethical 
 poem in it called " Kural," the work of Tiruvalla- 
 var, who is as great a man among the Tamil peo- 
 ple, as much revered, as the poet Tukaram is 
 among the ^larathas. In regard to race, the 
 Hindoo element is comparatively small in the 
 populations of the South. The Hindoo religion, 
 on the contrary, has penetrated to a large extent, 
 though, on the other hand, it has itself been pow- 
 erfully affected by the demonology of the Dravi- 
 dian races. 
 
 Soon after the sun rose this morning we drove 
 over to the Free Church mission-house, where 
 Mr. and Mrs. Stevenson reside, and spent the 
 cool early hours in wandering over the beautiful 
 garden and compound with Mr. Stevenson, who 
 is the secretary of the mission. We afterwards 
 
MADRAS. FEMALE WORK. 55 
 
 breakfasted with the family and met some pleas- 
 ant friends. Here we had the pleasure of making 
 Miss Cross' acquaintance, a lady who came out to 
 see miss-ion work in the schools and among the 
 women, and has had her heart so stirred by its 
 needs and its absorbing interest that she has 
 stayed to take part in it. Would that many more 
 of our good Christian ladies at home, who are 
 without any great object to fill their lives, would 
 come and do likewise ! She goes daily to the 
 girls' schools with Mr. or Mrs. Bauboo, and is 
 already attracting the children to her and doing 
 good service among them. 
 
 In the afternoon Mrs. Rae drove me to the 
 European Orphan Asylum — a large, commodious 
 building standing in extensive, park-like grounds, 
 with lovely greensward and a wealth of splendid 
 trees. It was the day of the annual fzte and 
 prize-giving, and it was a great pleasure to see 
 the little white boys and girls, children of our 
 own country-people, so well cared for and so hap- 
 py. A band was playing in the centre of the 
 garden, and plenty of flags floated gayly every- 
 where; merry-go-rounds and games were in full 
 swing; Christmas-trees stood on open green spots 
 loaded with pretty presents; the relatives of the 
 children and many visitors were roaming about, 
 or regaling themselves with tea or ices under the 
 
56 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 trees, while the rich soft lights of the tropical even- 
 ing streamed through the high-arching boughs, 
 glinted across the sward, and sent a golden gleam 
 over the whole scene. We also roamed about, 
 talked to many friends, had some tea, and greatly 
 enjoyed the cool evening air and pretty, gay, 
 cheery scene. 
 
 February 2. 
 
 Another of these little school fetes has taken 
 place, and I had a very special and delightful in- 
 terest in it. It was the annual exhibition of the 
 high-caste girls' day-schools connected with our 
 own mission; and through the kindness of Mr. 
 Stevenson, the secretary, and Mr. Bauboo, the 
 superintendent, I had the honor of being invited 
 to give away the prizes. I need not say what a 
 pleasure this was to me. The pretty /c/^^ was held 
 in the school in Black Town, which was originally 
 founded by Mrs. Braidwood; and when the event- 
 ful day came Mr. and Mrs. Rae drove us to the 
 place. It is a large good house, standing in a 
 garden which is full of green loveliness from the 
 kind gifts of a native gentleman, who is a lover 
 of flowers, and happily also a lover of children. 
 I think it was the same friend who presented a 
 little fountain to the school, which was now play- 
 ing, throwing sparkling jets of water over a mass 
 of lovely ferns in pots prettily grouped about the 
 
MADRAS. FEMALE WORK. 57 
 
 base. Flags were flying, picturesque crowds 
 were standing about as the carriage drove up, 
 and the whole place looked festal. 
 
 As we entered the large upper hall where the 
 distribution was to take place the scene was sin- 
 gularly striking and pretty. The upper end of 
 the room was filled with visitors; and I observed 
 many native gentlemen present with the dark, 
 strong, good Madrassee face, surmounted by a 
 huge turban. Facing the door there was a love- 
 ly erection, a sort of canopy supported by tiny 
 columns, which were all wreathed over with ex- 
 quisite fronds of delicate and rare ferns. Below 
 the canopy was a table loaded with the beautiful 
 prizes, and chairs for those who were to have the 
 honor of being the principal actors in the day's 
 proceedings. 
 
 But the grand attraction was at the lower end 
 of the hall, which was filled with a glittering 
 and most fascinating crowd of small creatures, 
 bespangled and bejewelled to an extraordinary 
 degree. The young women of the Normal class, 
 the Christian teachers, and the bigger girls, all 
 in their pretty, simple costumes, were ranged 
 behind and made a most effective background, 
 while the throng of little ones, packed closely in 
 front, looked one gorgeous mass of jewels and 
 flowers and fine clothes. You could hardly see 
 
58 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 the sweet little brown faces for the fringes of gold 
 and silver which hung across the foreheads and 
 the flowers which decked almost every head ; 
 while the armlets and anklets and bracelets and 
 necklaces and nose-rings and toe-rings and ear- 
 rings, and all the amazing things they wore, 
 would make a list far too long to number. Some 
 could hardly walk, for the weight of their finery, 
 when they came up to get their prizes. 
 
 These were very handsome indeed, and the 
 curious thing was that they were all gifts from 
 non-Christian Hindoo gentlemen, friends of the 
 Bauboos, and, I may well add, friends of the 
 schools. The prizes included three lovely gold 
 medals and one or two of silver. The medals 
 had been struck in Scotland, one side bearing an 
 inscription and the name of the successful com- 
 petitor, and on the reverse a representation of tlie 
 Burning Bush, with the usual legend round it: 
 nec tamen consumebatur ! 
 
 The proceedings were what are customary on 
 such occasions. The singing was frequent and 
 specially beautiful. An encouraging and very 
 interesting report was read by the superintendent, 
 .Mr. Bauboo; addresses were given by Dr. Mitch- 
 ell and Mr. Stevenson, while I confess to have 
 been very much in my element bestowing the 
 beautiful boxes and books and toys on the happy 
 
MADRAS. FEMALE WORK. 59 
 
 children and fastening the medals round their 
 necks with ribbon as true blue as the decorations 
 themselves. 
 
 When all was over a dear little mite of a 
 child came toddling up to me for a doll. She 
 was a most quaint little figure, arrayed in a stiff 
 white muslin skirt, bordered with gold, which 
 reached to her pretty little feet. But it was gath- 
 ered in so full beneath her broad waistband of 
 silver that when I took her on my lap the whole 
 thing stood out like a frill. So we placed her 
 standing on a chair, and, with her little hands 
 clasped together, she said a hymn in the prettiest 
 way. It was quite touching to hear her; and 
 then she repeated, "Suffer little children to come 
 unto Me," in Tamil. This was the child of 
 heathen parents ! If we could only have pulled 
 the finery off she would have looked like a little 
 bronze cherub. 
 
 In his report Mr. Bauboo had told us of the 
 examinations which had been conducted previ- 
 ously and quoted some very laudatory remarks 
 from the reports of the different examiners. Al- 
 together the condition of the schools, as to num- 
 bers and attendance, the amount of fees paid, and 
 the attainments of the scholars, seemed to be 
 highly satisfactory to their excellent superinten- 
 dents, to the parents — that is, the fathers, for of 
 
6o SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 course the mothers were not present — to the mis- 
 sionaries, and to us all. 
 
 There are two flourishing Sabbath-schools in 
 connection with these caste-girls' schools, and 
 though the attendance is not compulsory, yet 
 many of the pupils do attend. Of course the in- 
 struction is entirely religious, and more than 
 this, these little Hindoo children bring voluntary 
 offerings to put into the missionary box. Mrs. 
 Bauboo told me that from these offerings they 
 had last year given contributions to the Tract 
 Society, to Dr. Elder's Medical Mission, and a 
 good sum (I forget how much) to support a Bible- 
 woman, who was to work in connection with the 
 mission in the Petiah where the schools are. Is 
 not this a most cheering and uncommon fact in 
 connection with a school composed entirely of 
 heathen children? There are also two hundred 
 and fifty of these volunteer Sunday scholars who 
 would not lose the lesson on any account. On 
 one occasion, when their teacher could not ven- 
 ture to go at the hour because of a tremendous 
 thunder-storm, on arriving somewhat late she 
 found several little creatures assembled notwith- 
 standing the nature of the weather. The eldest 
 had given out a hymn and they were singing it 
 when she came in. 
 
CHINGLEPUT. 
 
 6l 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 CHINGLEPUT. 
 
 February 4. 
 
 We are sitting in a large, cool, airy chamber, 
 opening off a shady veranda, in the midst of pro- 
 found and most restful quiet; truly a great con- 
 trast to the racket and roar and heat and bustle 
 of the great city. 
 
 Chingleput is one of the branch stations of 
 our mission in Madras; there are others also quite 
 as interesting, but, alas! our time only allows of 
 a visit to this one. The missionaries are Mr. and 
 Mrs. Andrew, who were sent forth from Glasgow 
 some two or three years ago, and we have come 
 to-day that we may have the joy of spending to- 
 morrow with them and seeing their Sabbath 
 work. On the previous Sabbath Dr. Mitchell 
 had preached in Madras — in the Free church, in 
 the Tamil church, and also in the church con- 
 nected with Dr. Elder's important medical work, 
 giving sundry lectures besides during the week. 
 
 Wc started about seven. It was one of those 
 warm, cloudy mornings so frequent here when 
 it is hard even to breathe, there being nothing 
 bright or clastic in the heavy air. 
 
62 
 
 SCENES IX SOUTHERX INDIA. 
 
 Near Madras the country is generally flat, 
 though green, with some fine wood. There is a 
 distant background of mountains, however, with 
 one or two low, isolated hills in the neighborhood 
 of the city. One of these is St. Thomas' Mount, 
 so called from the tradition, preserved especially 
 among the Syrian Christians, of St. Thomas' 
 visit to this place. There is an old church, I be- 
 lieve, on the summit, which is held in reverence 
 still among the Syrians and Portuguese. As you 
 approach Chingleput the character of the scenery 
 changes, though it is only two hours by train 
 from Madras ; there are some low, undulating 
 hills, green and picturesque, and it seems to be a 
 beautiful little place. 
 
 Mr. Andrew met us and we drove hither in a 
 bandy clothed in a thick white quilted cover, 
 which was most kindly sent to fetch us by the 
 station judge. These white draperies give the 
 carriages rather a droll look, but they are a fa- 
 mous protection to the occupants from the fierce 
 rays of the tyrant sun. The horses also are often 
 decorated, in this case with sola topees, or sun 
 hats, a most benevolent arrangement, though hav- 
 ing a particularly odd effect. We drove through 
 a long, clean bazar, called the Brahman street, 
 for in this caste -ridden Presidency no one of 
 lower caste may live in the quarter sacred to these 
 
CHINGLEPUT. 
 
 63 
 
 "gods on earth," as the Brahmans call them- 
 selves. Brahmanical influence is exceedingly 
 strong here, and caste rules with a rod of iron. 
 The Brahmans try to keep every post in their 
 own hands, and the Sudras and lower castes do 
 not get a chance if they can help it. It is still 
 true in many places that a Pariah must not only 
 not touch the sacred person of a Brahman, but he 
 must not come within such range that there can 
 be the possibility of his shadow falling on the 
 holy man or on the path he treads! I have often 
 seen a low-caste man get out of the way, go up a 
 bank, and even get behind a hedge, imtil a Brah- 
 man has gone on his way. .Such is the fearful 
 -tyranny which this extraordinary law of caste 
 still exercises over this fair land, with all its an- 
 cient boasted civilization and its modern educa- 
 tion and enlightenment! Nowhere, I believe, is 
 caste feeling stronger than in the South; nowhere 
 does it bind the people more inexorably in its 
 cruel fetters, which nothing can break but the 
 God-sent religion of Jesus Christ, which makes 
 all men brethren. 
 
 Christianity is making way, but least among 
 these proud Brahmans, to whom the preachiug 
 of its doctrines is as yet "foolishness." I do 
 not thiuk we have seen in other parts of India 
 that the Brahmans live entirely in streets by 
 
64 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 themselves, aloof from all the rest of the popula- 
 tion. 
 
 Passing from the native town we turned into 
 this pretty compound, where there are some fine 
 trees, underneath which the grass is almost as 
 green as on an English lawn. We stopped at the 
 long, low bungalow with its deep veranda, which 
 is prettily embellished with creepers and plants 
 and flowers in pots. 
 
 Now there is not a sound but the song of birds 
 or the chirrup of the merry little squirrels as they 
 gambol beneath the eaves, or the caw of the ever- 
 present son of the soil, the crow, or an occasional 
 cry from poor little Jacko, a tiny monkey who sits 
 on a perch outside, whom I at once propitiated by 
 an offering of plantains. It is all very rural and 
 sweet and much cooler than Madras. The single 
 note of a small, scarlet-breasted bird, called by the 
 natives in the Maratha country sahmki^ now fills 
 the still air and is delicious in its plaintive sweet- 
 ness. My husband tells me this dear little bird is 
 mentioned by the great Marathi poet Tukaram 
 in lines something like this: 
 
 When the sweet salunki 
 Iler clear note outjionrcth 
 God gives, as she soareth, 
 All the rapture. 
 
 After breakfast the servants and some other 
 
CHINGLEPUT. 
 
 65 
 
 people came trooping in to prayers, which Mr. 
 Andrew conducted in Tamil. They sat cross- 
 legged on the floor, having first reverently re- 
 moved their turbans. Mr. and Mrs. Andrew just 
 now are having some hours' hard work at the lan- 
 guage, which they are studying with great dili- 
 gence and success. 
 
 In the afternoon Mrs. Andrew took me out in 
 her little pony-carriage to show me the place 
 where their lot is cast as ambassadors for Christ 
 among the heathen. The native town is excep- 
 tionally clean and tidy and tolerably prosperous- 
 looking. The diflferent castes seem to inhabit 
 different streets. We saw only the outside of the 
 mission buildings now, and then went the "Five- 
 mile Round," which is a beautiful drive over un- 
 dulating downs, by a succession of low hills, at 
 once rocky and green. There is plenty of water 
 visible, the countr>- is well cultivated and ir- 
 rigated, and the tiny rice -fields looked very 
 pretty, filled with the tender green of the young 
 plant. 
 
 We got back to the Institution or English 
 school just in time for a lecture which Dr. Mitch- 
 ell gave on Japan and China. There was an ex- 
 cellent audience, composed entirely of men, ex- 
 cepting two or three English ladies who were 
 present. Mr. Hope, the judge, was in the chair, 
 
 bC»D«« Id Soath-rn Id lit C 
 
66 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 who afterwards, with his pleasant wife, drove us 
 all home to their house to diuuer, and we spent a 
 most agreeable evening. 
 
 Next day, being the Sabbath, was filled with 
 services, beginning in the early morning with a 
 large Sunday-school of over 120 pupils, all heath- 
 en, and many of them grown lads. Dr. Mitchell 
 gave them an address on the story of Nicodemus, 
 and afterwards put questions which were readily 
 answered, showing considerable Scripture knowl- 
 edge. Tamil services followed, both in the fore- 
 noon and afternoon, the congregations being com- 
 posed of Tamil Christians. Dr. Mitchell preached 
 through an interpreter, and a busy and delightful 
 day was finished by his conducting the usual 
 English service in the evening, which Mr. An- 
 drew holds for the benefit of the English residents, 
 there being no chaplain in the place. 
 
 What busy lives our missionaries lead ! This 
 Sunday at Chingleput, so filled with work, is a 
 type of many Sundays we have spent in the mis- 
 sion stations which it has been our great privilege 
 in our wanderings to visit. Both on Sundays and 
 week-days an amount of hard, anxious, harassing 
 work has to be got throtigh which would astonish 
 those who neither know nor care, and which 
 ought to call forth deep consideration and sympa- 
 thy towards the missionaries personally, as well as 
 
CHINGLEPUT. 
 
 67 
 
 earnest prayer that they may be strengthened in 
 body and mind and upheld in this work, which 
 seems to me so exceptionally arduous. 
 
 Next morning we were again early astir. Life 
 begins betimes in India, at least with those who 
 care to utilize the cool, fresh, delicious morning 
 hours. The gentlemen, accompanied by two 
 evangelists, "went forth to sow." They went 
 boldly to the Brahmans' quarters first and were at 
 least civilly received. My husband found a priest 
 who knew Marathi, with whom he had much 
 deeply interesting conversation, and left some lit- 
 tle books with him. The evangelists everywhere 
 always begin with singing, which at once attracts 
 a gathering. The people are very fond of hymns 
 and lyrics and gather in crowds to listen. The 
 preaching follows, and, happily, here there does 
 not seem to be much active opposition. Many 
 seem now to hear gladly. But the difficulty 
 everywhere is the same: the people lack the ear- 
 nestness or moral courage which would lead them 
 to profess what in their hearts they believe to be 
 true. 
 
 After breakfast we visited the schools, both for 
 girls and boys. In the Institution we had a most 
 lively time with crowds of fine, intelligent, eager 
 lads. The building, which is spacious and airy 
 and all on one floor, was erected to commemorate 
 
68 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 an excellent man who once was judge in the sta- 
 tion, Mr. Moreliead, and who had always taken 
 the most cordial interest in missions. 
 
 As usual, I was greatly interested with the 
 groups of dainty little creatures that filled the 
 long, low, cool class-rooms in the girls' school. 
 There were over "lOO pupils present, all children 
 of good-caste parents, and under the charge of one 
 of the nicest native Christian ladies I have met. 
 This was Mrs. Zynul-abidene. Mrs. Anderson, 
 of Madras, called her " My dear Barbara," and I 
 like best to remember her thus. She is the head 
 mistress, and it is easy to sec that she does her 
 work among the little ones quite con amore. She 
 is the daughter of one of Mr. Anderson's converts 
 and the wife of another. It is touching to meet 
 the traces and fruits of the labors of the first 
 Scotch missionaries, Messrs. Anderson, Johnstone, 
 and Braidwood, everywhere here. If you find an 
 exceptionally interesting, mellowed old Christian 
 he is sure to say, " I was baptized by Mr. Ander- 
 son." 
 
 In the afternoon we took leave of our kind 
 friends and returned to Madras, arriving just in 
 time for a meeting of the Missionary Conference, 
 which was held in the Raes' drawing-room. 
 There was an immense gathering of missionaries, 
 with many other friends. Among them was a 
 
CIIINGLEPUT. 
 
 69 
 
 young German lady we had met before, who is 
 now engaged in i^enana work. She cheered us 
 much by saying that words we had spoken to her 
 in Nice years ago had led her, by God's blessing, 
 to devote her life to the women of India. 
 
 The meeting proved intensely interesting. 
 After Mr. Rae had introduced my husband and 
 he had spoken a little, he was well questioned 
 regarding the mission fields he had visited, es- 
 pecially China and Japan. Then his turn came 
 to question, and in reply many most important 
 facts and opinions were brought out regarding 
 Southern India and the condition of the work in 
 this region. These were very valuable, from such 
 men as Dr. Scudder and Mr. Noyes, two of the 
 oldest and most experienced of the American mis- 
 sionaries, Mr. Sell of the C. M. S., Dr. Chamber- 
 lain, Dr. Elder, Mr. Rajahgopal, Mr. Satyanad- 
 han, and many others. 
 
 Particularly cheering was the testimony which 
 every speaker bore to the decided rise there is in 
 the condition of the converts, in position, stand- 
 ing, intelligence, and also in the still more im- 
 portant matter of moral and religious character. 
 Unfortunately, caste is not yet wholly rooted 
 out from some of the native Christian communi- 
 ties. There still .seems to be a tendency to keep 
 up caste distinctions socially; and the converts 
 
70 
 
 SCEN'KS IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 belonging to different castes, though at the same 
 mission, sometimes will not intermarry, though I 
 believe there is something to be said in excuse of 
 this reluctance. The Roman-catholic missions 
 also proved an interesting subject of discussion. 
 All seemed to agree that, though making way 
 somewhat among the heathen, they are decidedly 
 not gaining from the Protestant missions. The 
 reverse, indeed, seems to be the case. But about 
 this we shall learn more as we proceed southward. 
 
 Our friend Mr. Fordyce, of Simla, journeying 
 in fulfilment of his mission to carr}- gospel ordi- 
 nances to our countr)-men scattered through India 
 who are destitute of such, made a rapid march to 
 meet us; and my husband and he conferred all 
 day concerning the interests of the important soci- 
 ety at home which Mr. Fordyce represents. Then 
 the outcoming mail steamer arrived — always an 
 exciting event — bringing one or two visitors for 
 the hours it remained. I paid some final visits 
 among the zenanas, saying many good-bys; the 
 girls of the boarding-school clustered round me for 
 a parting word; some of the native Christian ladies 
 came for the same purpose; a good many of the 
 most advanced pupils from the college came over, 
 some from Mr. Rae's Bible-class — interesting, 
 earnest young men, who seem near the kingdom; 
 all our missionaries and professors came; and our 
 
CniNGLEPUT. 
 
 71 
 
 hearts were deeply stirred, sorrowing most that 
 many of these kind faces we cannot hope to see 
 any more on earth. 
 
 So our memorable visit came to a close. As 
 we had talked all day, we had to work all night — 
 to pack, to write letters, and be ready; for by six 
 o'clock next morning we had bidden farewell to 
 our kind host and hostess and their sweet children 
 and were en route for the further south. 
 
72 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THE EARLY MISSIONS TO INDIA. 
 
 Although my object in writing this little 
 account of our missionary journey through part 
 of South India is to tell simply what we saw with 
 our own eyes, yet a few words on the past history 
 of these most interesting mission fields may not 
 be unwelcome to make what follows more com- 
 prehensible. A heart which beats at all in sympa- 
 thy with the great cause of the spread of Christ's 
 kingdom in the world will surely beat a little 
 faster at the very mention of such centres as Tan- 
 jore, Palamcotta, Madura, Nagcrcoil, and many 
 others which have stood out so conspicuously in 
 the history of missions. 
 
 It is now nearly two centuries since the eyes 
 of Protestant Christendom began to turn with 
 interest to the work which was even then making 
 a sure commencement in the southern part of the 
 great Indian continent. The wide world of heath- 
 endom still lay in profound darkness. But, happi- 
 ly, there was a Danish settlement on this coast 
 at the south, where missionaries were welcomed 
 
THE EARLY MISSIONS TO INDIA. 
 
 73 
 
 and allowed to settle; and so, while the rest oi 
 India was still unvisited by the messengers of 
 peace, the Madras Presidency had begun to hear 
 the glad tidings of salvation. It is well to re- 
 member that missions began in the south of India 
 much sooner than in the north. In Western In- 
 dia their commencement was in 1813 — a full cen- 
 tury later than in Madras. 
 
 The first Protestant mission in India was planted 
 in Tranquebar, and to Denmark belongs the honor 
 of having equipped and sent it forth. Not only 
 so; the enterprise owed its origin to King Fred- 
 erick IV., who commissioned the devoted Prof. 
 Franke, of Halle, at the suggestion of his court 
 preacher. Dr. Liitkcns, to find missionaries to go 
 to the heathen field in India. The result was the 
 sending forth of the very noble Zicgcnbalg and 
 his associate Plutschau, and the founding of the 
 Tranquebar Mission. This was as far back as 
 1706 — a memorable year in the history of Protes- 
 tant missions in dark, heathen India. 
 
 Is it not both touching and suggestive to go 
 back to that small beginning and think of all it 
 meant? The little water spring, the tiny rill, 
 was to swell into a goodly river of the water of 
 life. It is surely a grand spectacle, these two 
 men setting .sail from the distant West with their 
 marvellous message for India, the message of 
 
74 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 divine love — the hope of her future, the charter 
 of her salvation ! 
 
 When these humble missionaries set foot upon 
 the strand the day-star rose on this Eastern 
 world and the angels began to sing over it 
 their joyous song. I wonder what the scoffing 
 Brahmans would have thought or the proud 
 Mussulmans! They little knew that, with these 
 two simple, unknown men, there had landed on 
 their shores forces, moral and spiritual, which 
 would yet rouse and conquer even this land, so 
 slow to change, which had slept so profound a 
 sleep during the ages, content with its dreams 
 and philosophies and old-world systems of faith. 
 
 Tranquebar in 1706 was a Danish settlement; 
 and as the missionaries had come out under the 
 protection of the king, the local Government of 
 course had to receive and assist them. They ob- 
 tained permission to build their first church, which 
 was erected by the seashore near the native town. 
 Schools soon followed, and Government ordered 
 that all the Protestant inhabitants should send 
 their slaves to be instructed, as well as that the 
 children should be sent to school. Meanwhile 
 the two men studied the Tamil language diligent- 
 ly, and were soon able to preach in it. Thus the 
 work began. The next missionary who arrived 
 to join the first two was an able man named Griin- 
 
THE EARLY MISSIONS TO INDIA. 
 
 75 
 
 dler. Then afterwards came Dr. Schiiltze; and 
 from time to time many other excellent coadju- 
 tors joined the mission band until, after a few 
 years, there were eight men laboring at once in 
 the field. 
 
 On the 5th of September, 1707, though the 
 work was still so new, hardly more than a year 
 old, God had so blessed the labors of the first 
 two men that they began to gather in their 
 sheaves. There were nine adults baptized to- 
 gether, and these formed tlie nucleus of the now 
 large and flourishing Tamil church of Southern 
 India. 
 
 But we must not forget that though this ven- 
 erable mission was established by Denmark, it 
 may be said to have been connected from the be- 
 ginning with both Germany and England. The 
 first missionaries were Germans, and funds were 
 occasionally sent them from Germany. Then, 
 from 1709, Great Britain took the liveliest inter- 
 est in the enterprise, the Society for Promoting 
 Christian Knowledge beginning from this time to 
 contribute steadily to its support. It also sent the 
 mission a printing-press and a printer. Early in 
 his career Ziegenbalg visited his own country and 
 also England in behalf of his mission. He re- 
 ceived generous donations, which were a great 
 help in the work. The funds from Denmark did 
 
76 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 not always arrive with punctuality, and, in times 
 of need, the Society for Promoting Christian 
 Knowledge still further increased its grants. 
 Thus the struggling, hard -worked people at 
 Tranqnebar were effectually helped and remem- 
 bered. 
 
 Another English society, which worked hand 
 in hand with the Society for Promoting Christian 
 Knowledge, sent them gifts, both of books and 
 money. This was the Society for the Propaga- 
 tion of the Gospel ; and by-and-by, when the for- 
 mer wished to confine its operations more to its 
 own proper sphere, the more directly missionary 
 part of its work was handed over to the Society 
 for the Propagation of the Gospel. This transfer- 
 ence was accomplished in 1828, and from that 
 time this society became still more closely con- 
 nected with the Tranqnebar mission. 
 
 The first 50 years saw much hard and earnest 
 work accomplished. Ziegenbalg returned from 
 his visit to Europe in behalf of his mission to his 
 loved field, but did not live many years after. 
 Much indeed had been done; the tiny grain of 
 mustard-seed had already begun to shoot out great 
 branches. Schools had been established, church- 
 es built, native pastors ordained, a printing-press 
 set up, tracts had been written and widely circu- 
 lated, and the Bible, both the Old and New Tes- 
 
THE EARLY MISSIONS TO INDIA. 
 
 77 
 
 taments, had been translated into Tamil and also 
 into Telugu. The blessing of God had manifest- 
 ly rested on the mission, and when these 50 years 
 were accomplished and its jubilee had come the 
 converts numbered 11,000. 
 
 Thus it was that the pure gospel of Christ first 
 visited poor India, and the lamp of truth then lit 
 in Tranquebar has never since become darkness. 
 In estimating the good these early missions ac- 
 complished ought we quite to forget the effect 
 their success must have had in stimulating the 
 mission cause over the world generally? The 
 stirring tidings which now and then found their 
 way across the sea of men being turned from 
 devil-worship and dark idolatries to serve the liv- 
 ing and true God must have carried reproach to 
 many a faint as well as careless heart, though en- 
 couragement and hope to others who had begun 
 to feel they had a responsibility in this matter. 
 Not very long after this time the Spirit of God 
 moved on the face of society at home and there 
 was aroused in tlie Christian world a new interest 
 and concern regarding the condition of the heath- 
 en world. Carey went to India in 1793, and the 
 missionary ranks have never lacked able recruits 
 since then, nor money to support them and their 
 work nor the prayers of Christ's people for their 
 success. 
 
78 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 This awakening, though it came gradually at 
 first, was contemporaneous with others relating to 
 matters in England, when humanity and philan- 
 thropy began to do their work. At this time the 
 condition of our prisons and asylums and slaves 
 began to be thought about and the poor to be con- 
 sidered. Grand institutions like the Religious 
 Tract Society, the Bible Society, and others were 
 formed. In a word, the highest interests of men 
 began to be considered by their fellows, both as 
 regards this world and the next. Surely that lit- 
 tle light kindled so wonderfully in South India 
 was as a beacon-light of hope to the world ! 
 
 The way in which the truth spread from Tran- 
 quebar into the neighboring province of Tanjore is 
 very interesting. Tanjore was then under a native 
 raj, and the missionaries were not at first allowed 
 to preach the new doctrines within its borders. 
 In God's wonderful providence, however, a native 
 officer named Rajnaiken, who had been brought 
 up a Roman-catholic, had the loan given him of 
 a copy of the Gospels in Tamil. He was so moved 
 and interested with what he found in the wonder- 
 ful Book that he began to copy the whole on pal- 
 myra leaves. Soon after, hearing that there were 
 missionaries only 50 miles away, he sought them, 
 received instruction, and eventually joined their 
 church. Much opposition was made by the Jesu- 
 
SCHWARTZ, 
 
THE EARLY MISSIONS TO INDIA. 79 
 
 its and also by his family. The latter, however, 
 influenced and instructed by him, were in time 
 one and all converted and admitted into the 
 church. But sore persecution followed. At one 
 time Rajnaiken was so savagely beaten that he 
 was left for dead on the ground. Then his father 
 was cruelly murdered and his brother half killed 
 from the barbarous treatment he received. But 
 the devoted converts firmly and bravely held on 
 their way. God marvellously preserved Rajnai- 
 ken, and he worked faithfully and efficiently as 
 a missionary among his own people for full 40 
 years. 
 
 With the entrance of the truth into Tanjore 
 the name of another missionary hero is insepara- 
 bly connected. This was the celebrated and de- 
 voted Schwartz. He founded a mission in Tri- 
 chinopoly, but afterwards removed to Tanjore, 
 where he settled finally. I never .shall forget the 
 thrill with which I entered the first chaiDel built 
 by him in the city of Tanjore — alas ! silent now 
 and unused — and looked at the primitive pulpit 
 where he had preached and the flag-stone on the 
 floor under which he was buried and the simple 
 inscription, in Latin, which the venerable build- 
 ing bears, "This house of prayer was built A. D. 
 1779." 
 
8o SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 TANJORE. 
 
 It was another still, stifling morning when we 
 started to join the early mail-train for Tanjore. 
 The atmosphere felt like a Turkish bath, and our 
 weary selves were more fit to go to bed than to 
 sit for the next 20 hours in the unlovely compart- 
 ment which opened for our reception. 
 
 After careful consultation with our friends we 
 had arranged to proceed down the east coast as 
 far as the railway would take us, then enter the 
 beautiful little kingdom of Travancore, traversing 
 it to the Cape and seeing its famed mission work, 
 chiefly among the Shanars or devil-worshippers, 
 then return northward by the famous Backwater 
 of the Malabar coast, visiting Cottyam, Cochin, 
 etc., en route^ and so on to the Blue Hills, the 
 famed Nielgherries. 
 
 One of the odd things about this primitive rail- 
 way is that the first-class fare costs three times as 
 much as that of second class; so there is an object 
 in systematically choosing these boxed-up, cush- 
 ionless carriages, with their hard, narrow bench- 
 es. It is certainly pleasanter to travel on a shady 
 
TANJORE. 
 
 8l 
 
 day like this than when the fierce sun is stream- 
 ing mercilessly in at curtainless windows, and a 
 bright little touch of beauty and sweetness was 
 added to our dingy surroundings by the kind 
 hands of some native friends who came to see us 
 off. Along with some pomegranates and other 
 fruit, which we found most cooling and delicious, 
 they brought us two magnificent bouquets, and 
 great was the pleasure the lovely, fragrant flowers 
 afforded us all the weary day. 
 
 One of the many fallacies current at home 
 concerning things Indian is that roses have here 
 no perfume. On the contrary, some vases full of 
 beautiful roses, which stand beside me as I write, 
 are sending forth the most delicate and delicious 
 odor. It is true, however, that some Indian flow- 
 ers have no scout at all, while others, especially 
 those of flowering shrubs, are too heavily scented 
 to be pleasant. 
 
 One of the kind friends who stood beside us 
 until the train moved off was a youth of whona 
 wc had seen a good deal in Madras and with 
 whom Dr. Mitchell has had much cheering inter- 
 course. He has come under that wonderful per- 
 sonal influence which Dr. Miller and his col- 
 leagues exercise so largely over young men. lie 
 has also enjoyed the training which Mr. Rae gives 
 in his admirable Bible-class, and he certainly is. 
 
82 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 in one sense, a believer. But to many such young 
 men one might put Paul's question, "Have ye 
 received the Holy Ghost since ye believed?" One 
 cannot help hoping that he has, there is some- 
 thing so peculiarly attractive about him. He 
 stood there, in his snow-white starched coat and 
 bunchy, loose turban, his open, honest face beam- 
 ing with a light which we trust came from true 
 light and peace within. Wc said some earnest 
 words to him and the tears stood in his eyes, and 
 we cannot but hope for him. 
 
 It is curious how popular the Bible-class is 
 among the heathen pupils; that is, if it is well 
 and brightly taught. This young man said that 
 in the Christian College it is the favorite class; 
 and, indeed, it is easy for visitors to see that this 
 is the case from the intense and thoughtful in- 
 terest depicted on every face as the teacher goes 
 on opening up and questioning the students on 
 the sacred theme. This precious seed which is 
 being so largely sown in the rich soil of these 
 young hearts will surely fulfil its end and bring 
 forth fruit in the saving of souls and to the glory 
 of God. 
 
 Until we leave Madras a good way behind the 
 country is flat and monotonous, but wonderfully 
 green, and near the stations, especially where 
 there arc English cantonments, the clumps and 
 
TANJORE. 
 
 83 
 
 plantations of fine shady trees are most refreshing 
 to the eye. Huge hedges of spiky cactus abound, 
 instead of the prickly pear of the Deccan, and 
 some palm-trees here and there soon begin to dot 
 the plains; but they look stunted and scraggy, es- 
 pecially to eyes accustomed to the stately growth 
 which these picturesque children of the tropics 
 attain in the low-lying, humid Konkan. A good 
 deal of water lay in the rice or paddy fields, 
 which accounted for the general aspect of green 
 freshness and fertility, though the large river-beds 
 were generally dry or had only a tiny stream 
 trickling through the broad, sandy bottom. 
 
 The country, as a rule, is well peopled and 
 well cultivated, and there were many quiet pas- 
 toral scenes I noticed as we passed which were 
 full of interest and had their own beauty. The 
 rice-crops were in every stage of progress — some 
 being cut and harvested, some about attaining to 
 the golden tint of ripeness, while other tiny fields, 
 in which the young plants had just been bedded 
 out, looked full of a lovely, delicate green, stand- 
 ing out of the water with which they had been 
 flooded. Every rice -field is surrounded by a 
 small, low embankment, which is also a tiny 
 water-course, as the plant loves plenty of moisture 
 and does not flourish without it. Does not this 
 remind one of the Spirit-taught heart? It too 
 
84 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 can only flourish and be green when abundantly 
 watered with heavenly dews by Him who is him- 
 self "as the dew unto Israel." As I watched the 
 cultivator open a little sluice in the water-course 
 and let in a gentle stream, which wandered over 
 the rice-bed until every tiny leaf held up its head, 
 revived and full of fresh beauty, giving promise 
 of the ripe, yellow grain to come, the expression, 
 "They shall revive as the corn," Hos. 14:7, 
 seemed to gain new significance and beauty. 
 And then the thought naturally followed and 
 turned to a prayer that the Good Husbandman 
 would yet turn this parched land of heathenism 
 into water-springs of truth and fill it with the 
 beauties of holiness and fruits of righteousness. 
 Oh, there is need ! Nothing strikes you more as 
 you pass along than the indications of idolatry 
 which everywhere abound. At every village, 
 under every green tree, at the roadside, every- 
 where, are idol shrines, or "Swami houses," or 
 grotesque, ugly images, smeared over with fla- 
 ming red paint, while in every town of any size 
 the tall gopiiram^ or pyramidal top of some pa- 
 goda, rears itself, often most picturesquely, over 
 the beautiful trees which generally surround it. 
 
 Early in the day we stopped for a little at 
 Punrooty, a pretty, green, well-wooded station, 
 and also, thanks be to God, an oasis in this wil- 
 
TAXJORE. 
 
 85 
 
 derness of heathenism. The mission at this place 
 is conducted by Miss Reade, the daughter of a 
 Madras civilian who was long in this district. It 
 was a great disappointment not to see it, but time 
 pressed and IMiss Reade was absent in Europe, 
 her health having completely failed under her 
 manifold labors. Her large orphanage for girls, 
 gathered during the famine, is, however, in full 
 op>eration, and the mission is carried on by effi- 
 cient workers. A friend who knows her well 
 writes to me thus: "Miss Reade itinerates much 
 in all the district, giving addresses both in Tamil 
 and Hindostani. She feels more called to this 
 work than any other; just sowing the seed is her 
 one great aim and desire. She is often asked to 
 go again and again to the villages where she has 
 already been and made the gospel known; and 
 just at the time of her illness, last November, 
 many were coming to her desiring to know how 
 they were to give up their idols and become 
 Christians." 
 
 Thus, through this excellent lady's instrumen- 
 tality, many in this region who sat in darkness 
 are coming to see a great light. Will not some 
 at home, who have the means and the time and 
 could be spared, come out and follow Miss Reade' s 
 example? 
 
 We have long and frequent halts, though this 
 
86 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 is the mail-train. My husband gets out and talks 
 to the people who throng the stations, for we de- 
 sire to make this a missionary tour in every sense. 
 All are glad too to accept tracts and books, but it 
 is a new and not very agreeable experience to us 
 to have to pass through any part of India and not 
 be able to speak to the people in their own 
 tongue. A French lady, of Pondicherr\', who is 
 our only fellow-traveller, comes to our aid when 
 we have any wants to make known, though she 
 knows only French and Tamil; but it is wonder- 
 ful how widespread some knowledge of English 
 is, even in these regions beyond; and, of course, 
 the station-masters and officials are educated men 
 and talk English perfectly. We found one or 
 two intelligent young Madrassees employed by 
 Government or on the railway who had been 
 students at our college in Madras. 
 
 We had intended, on reaching Tanjore, to put 
 up at the Travellers' Bungalow — that refuge for 
 the pilgrim and stranger which a paternal Gov- 
 ernment provides, but as we passed through one 
 of the stations en route a telegram was put into 
 my husband's hand from some kind benefactor 
 there, inviting us to be his guests during our 
 stay. This was totally unexpected, as we had no 
 acquaintance in the place that we knew of. We 
 could not even decipher the name the message 
 
TANJORE. 
 
 87 
 
 bore, only we knew that our Heavenly Father 
 was "mindful of us" and goodness and mercy 
 were following us continually. During the day 
 we found out that our unknown friend was Mr. 
 Buick, the Collector of Tanjore ; so when our 
 train drew slowly into the station, some time 
 after midnight, there, sure enough, were a couple 
 of belted, scarlet-coated peons, with the Collector- 
 Sahib's badge across their breasts, ready to take 
 charge of us and our belongings. We soon found 
 ourselves in charming quarters. There was a 
 blaze of cheery, welcoming light; servants with 
 hot chocolate and other good things were ready; 
 and erelong our aching heads and weary bones 
 were reposing deliciously in this large, airy, quiet 
 chamber. We knew nothing more until the early 
 sunlight shining in through the jilmils^ or Vene- 
 tian blinds, showed us our fresh surroundings. 
 My husband was soon without, and over the high 
 screen which divided us from the drawing-room 
 I heard a lady's cheery voice bidding him heartily 
 welcome and telling him he was an old friend. 
 
 Some years ago, during the revival in Ireland, 
 we were the guests of the well-known Rev. J. H. 
 Moore, of Connor, where, if I mistake not, the 
 revival movement began. Mr. Moore showed us 
 much of that great work, and he and his wife 
 were most hospitable and kind. Our hostess is 
 
88 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 their daughter, and she remembers us and our 
 visit, though then little more than a child. How 
 grateful I felt as I listened to her pleasant greet- 
 ing, to which her husband's was soon added! We 
 could now, indeed, see Tanjore under the best pos- 
 sible auspices. Their kindness was simply un- 
 wearied and unbounded. 
 
 The first thing we did after breakfast was to 
 go to the flat roof-top of Mr. Buick's house, as the 
 highest point at command, to get a general view 
 of the main features of the place. This always 
 helps one afterwards in taking in details more 
 correctly. The great plain of Tanjore lay spread 
 out at our feet, bounded on all sides by the hori- 
 zon, except where a range of far-off hills, faintly 
 discernible in the distance, seemed to mingle with 
 the clouds. The plain is beautifully wooded in 
 some parts and well cultivated; that is, it seems 
 one vast paddy or rice field, except where thick 
 jungle prevails. The roads seem well lined with 
 trees, while the houses stand in the midst of 
 clumps and topes; but the foliage is dusty and 
 brown. The native town lies a good deal within 
 the walls of the fort, where the fine old palace is 
 the chief feature, with its towers and gateway and 
 lofty, grim old walls. But the most conspicuous 
 and striking object in the scene, which one cannot 
 help looking down upon with wondering admira- 
 
TAN'JORE. 
 
 89 
 
 tion, is the Grand Pagoda, one of the sights of 
 Tanjore. It is a huge, pyramidal structure, 
 standing in a great court, with a lofty gateway 
 and surrounded by a high wall. It is considered 
 one of the finest temples of the kind in all India, 
 and our friends promised us a nearer inspection 
 by-and-by. 
 
 We denizens of the Maratha country ought to 
 have felt here we were breathing familiar air, for 
 this g^eat province was long under the sovereign- 
 ty of the Marathas. The last rajah, who died in 
 1855, unfortunately had no male issue, so, accord- 
 ing to the policy which then ruled in English 
 councils, the sovereignty lapsed to the Honorable 
 East India Company. 
 
 But what we wanted to see first was something 
 of the missions in this famous old mission field, 
 where the light began to shine when so much of 
 the rest of the land was still dark. Dr. Claudius 
 Buchanan had called Tanjore the garden of the 
 gospel; we wondered if it still deserved the high 
 designation. A carriage from the palace was 
 most kindly put at our disposal to go where we 
 liked; so we soon found our way to the German 
 mission-house, where we made the acquaintance 
 of Mr. and Mrs. Pamperien, the missionary and 
 his wife in charge of the Leipzig Mission. 
 
 We were delighted with the tall, pleasant Ger- 
 
90 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 man pastor and his young wife, who gave us a 
 most cordial welcome and took us all over their 
 full, busy mission compound. There are day- 
 schools and orphanages both for boys and girls, 
 all located round the centre mission bungalow 
 and thus directly under the missionary's eye. 
 The church also stands conspicuous at one side of 
 the spacious inclosure. It is a fine, large white 
 building, airy and roomy inside, with some pretty 
 colored-glass windows, and memorial slabs on the 
 walls. The floor is comfortably matted, but has 
 no pews or seats of any kind; the people sit on 
 the floor, the men on one side and the women on 
 the other, as in China; and thus it holds a larger 
 congregation. Some of the native Christians, 
 hearing of our arrival, gathered about the church 
 door and gave us a most kindly greeting. We 
 had some very nice talk with them, especially 
 with two elder men, who are catechists or, rather, 
 pastors, and assist Mr. Pamperien chiefly in the 
 village and district work. The farthest station 
 occupied by the mission is 36 miles off". Mr. 
 Pamperien told us that 10,000 converts have been 
 added to the missions of their society in India 
 during the last four or five years. This indeed 
 was cheering news. 
 
 We spent a long, pleasant morning in the 
 midst of this active mission circle, and then drove 
 
TAN'JORE. 
 
 91 
 
 to the fort to see the English school and college 
 connected with the Society for the Propagation of 
 the Gospel. There are only two missionaries of 
 this society at present in Tanjore, IMessrs. Kay 
 and Blake. Having sent in our cards, the latter, 
 whose work seems chiefly to be in the college, 
 came down and received us very courteously. 
 
 He was extremely kind and took us all through 
 the quaint, queer, whitewashed native building, 
 where every room and corner seemed turned into 
 a class-room. These were filled with some 300 to 
 400 lads, who looked bright and intelligent. The 
 Madrassees have, as a rule, honest, good-humored 
 countenances, broader of feature and darker in 
 complexion than the Marathas; more open, per- 
 haps, in expression, but not, I think, so intellec- 
 tual. They wear large, soft turbans, which suit 
 an Oriental face, instead of the bare heads of the 
 young Bengalis, who only wear turbans in full 
 dress and have their thick black hair cropped and 
 dressed like English lads. 
 
 I asked some of Mr. Blake's pupils why they 
 were so anxious to acquire an English education. 
 "Oh," said they very honestly, "because we want 
 to get Government employment." A knowledge 
 of English is the ladder by which they hope to 
 mount to this grand prize which lies at the top. 
 Poor fellows! it is quite natural; and though cdu- 
 
92 
 
 SCENES IX SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 cation for its own sake is not yet always the at- 
 traction it ought to be, may we not hope that 
 many taught in Christian schools, who have the 
 additional advantage of a thorough training in 
 Bible knowledge, may find a better prize even 
 than they dream of at the top, namely, the sal- 
 vation of their immortal souls ? 
 
 Mr. Blake is very enthusiastic about his school 
 and works hard, generally spending the whole day 
 in it. In the terrible heat of these crowded rooms 
 this is no small self-denial and toil. My husband 
 found a good many Marathas among the pupils and 
 many Brahmans, and had much interesting talk. 
 
 This was all we saw of the S. P. G. Missions 
 or missionaries, except, indeed, a very nice girls' 
 school, taught by Mrs. Gahan and her daughter, 
 also accommodated in the fort. There were 63 
 bright-looking girls present, bigger and older too 
 than are usually to be found in day-schools of this 
 sort. Mrs. Gahan also visits in the zenanas and 
 teaches in the palace. The princess is one of her 
 pupils, and a very intelligent pupil she is. I 
 have just seen a grateful letter from her to my 
 friend Mrs. Buick, written in rather a schoolgirl 
 hand, but well expressed in good English, thank- 
 ing her for some kindness done to her, and saying 
 how grateful she is to " the good collector, ' ' as she 
 calls Mr. Buick. 
 
TANJORE. 
 
 93 
 
 Early yesterday afternoon onr friends took us 
 a round of sight-seeing. We drove to the fort in 
 state, the collector being the embodiment of au- 
 thority as the representative of the English Gov- 
 ernment, and we were received at the entrance by 
 the guard, who beat a salute in honor of the visit- 
 ors. The sirkele of the palace, or Prime Minister, 
 was waiting with a grand retinue of smaller ofii- 
 cials, red-coated peons, and all manner of attend- 
 ants, and conducted us over the palace. It is a 
 dreary old pile, full of the indications and remains 
 of fallen greatness. It was altogether very pa- 
 thetic, there is such an extraordinary mingling of 
 ruin and decay, with relics of old court pageantry 
 and pomp and tawdry finery and barbaric splen- 
 dor. In the same way some of the rooms are ex- 
 ceedingly handsome, while the labyrinthine pas- 
 sages which lead to them are narrow and squalid, 
 and some of the walls and courts, though fine in 
 design, are tumble-down or unfinished. We first 
 visited the museum, an omnium gatJierum of old 
 State property, weapons, saddles, and rich saddle- 
 cloths of gold, splendid shawls, quaint turbans 
 which had graced the heads of the old rajahs, old 
 chairs of state, and many other relics too numer- 
 ous to name, while whole centuries of story seemed 
 to fill the place. We next saw the old Durbar- 
 room or Hall of Audience, where the gilt canopy 
 
94 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 stands, under which is the gadi or throne. The 
 walls are decorated with some portraits, and on 
 the same side of the quadrangle is the library, full 
 of dusty old tomes, where my husband was much 
 in his element over some curious old Sanscrit and 
 Llarathi manuscripts. We then crossed a spacious 
 court, in which multitudes of tame pigeons were 
 being fed, to another and more modem Durbar- 
 hall, used by the later Maratha rajahs, which is 
 an exceedingly handsome room of stately propor- 
 tions, with a highly-polished floor and some fine 
 pillars. In this hall is the beautiful statue, in 
 white marble, of the father of the last rajah, 
 which stands on a magnificent slab of black mar- 
 ble or porphyry. Here also is a curious old 
 swinging cot suspended from the roof, at which I 
 looked with much interest, as I found it was the 
 same described by Schwartz in an account of his 
 interview with the rajah on the occasion of his 
 first visit to Tanjore, long before he finally settled 
 here. 
 
 It was a disappointment to us that the prin- 
 cess was not at home. She and her consort were 
 away at Baroda, at the grand doings on the Gaek- 
 war's accession. We saw her State reception- 
 rooms, however, which are very handsome and 
 full of modem adornments, such as carpets, mir- 
 rors, chandeliers. At the upper cud there is a 
 
TANJORE. 
 
 95 
 
 raised dais, with great chairs beneath a canopy, 
 where her Royal Highness receives her lady 
 guests, a transparent curtain being drawn across, 
 which propriety requires should divide her from 
 the party of the other sex gathered in the apart- 
 ment below. Here her consort presides for her. 
 
 We finished our interesting investigations in 
 the palace by a visit to the old ranis, the widows 
 of the last rajah. Having threaded some more 
 dark passages and courts, we ascended a steep, 
 short stairway leading to their apartments, where 
 we were received with great courtesy by a weak- 
 looking young man, the adopted son of one of 
 the ranis. There was little of the grandeur of a 
 palace visible. We were ushered into an apart- 
 ment, handsome as to proportions, but faded and 
 forlorn, with a tattered curtain of yellow satin 
 drawn along the whole length of the room. As 
 we entered we saw many little stirrings at the foot 
 of this curtain and curious eyes peeping forth to 
 catch a sight of the strangers. Mrs. Buick and I 
 went within the curtain, and were at once sur- 
 rounded by a number of women of different ages. 
 The principal wife is a gray-haired, withered old 
 woman; but many of those we saw must have 
 been mere children when the old man died. He 
 left seventeen widows, twelve of whom are still 
 alive. I cannot say they looked interesting, but 
 
96 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 one could not help one's heart going out to them 
 in pity, with a longing desire to give them some- 
 thing which might brighten their cheerless, empty 
 lives. How I longed to tell them of the Friend 
 of the friendless, the Judge of the widow ! But 
 they did not seem to care much to be taught, and 
 I came away from the visit feeling rather de- 
 pressed. 
 
 The temple, or pagoda, at Tanjore is a mag- 
 nificent structure, and we saw as much of it and 
 its wonderful surroundings as any European is 
 allowed to see, for no unclean foreign foot may 
 tread the sacred interior. The appearance of a 
 colossal Nandi^ or sacred bull, in black basalt, 
 erected in the court in front of the principal shrine, 
 showed at once that the temple is dedicated to 
 the god Shiva — Nandi being the bull on which 
 Shiva rides. The basalt was well oiled all over, 
 and so looked like bronze. 
 
 There are inscriptions all round the base, 
 which have been translated by the learned civil- 
 ian Dr. Burnell. The court is handsome and very 
 spacious, with cloisters all round, in which are 
 small symbols of Shiva. There is a second tem- 
 ple in the inclosure dedicated to Subrahmanya, 
 the son of vShiva, which is also of the usual elabo- 
 rate construction, and has a beautiful goparam^ 
 or tower. In a chamber connected with the page- 
 
I 
 
TANJORE. 
 
 97 
 
 da there is a series of portraits, life size, of the 
 royal family of Tanjore, from the great Shivaji 
 and his father Shahji, down to the last rajah. 
 The chief pagoda is surmounted by a very fine 
 monolith of granite, which is said to weigh 80 
 tons. All these temples belong to the senior 
 rani at the palace, who pays the ptijaris, or 
 priests, feeds the Brahmans, and keeps up the 
 place. 
 
 I observe that the people here generally wear 
 very conspicuous idolatrous marks. These are 
 either on the forehead or breast or neck, and are 
 usually made with daubs of white paint put on in 
 long lines. They are very pronounced in their 
 religiousness, greatly caste-ridden, and under the 
 sway of the Brahmans to a very great extent. 
 
 But certainly the interest of our stay in Tan- 
 jore culminated in our visit to the venerable 
 church of the illustrious Schwartz. Altogether 
 one seemed to live more in the past as to missions 
 than the present in a place so full of memories as 
 this, except, indeed, when one longed that the 
 present might more fully realize the expectations 
 awakened by the past. 
 
 It is not tliat there is so much to see or tell 
 about in the touching old chapel, though we felt 
 it to be so infinitely more interesting than any 
 simply classic ground could ever be. 
 
 Bcenri In Soutliem India. '7 * 
 
98 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 It is an unpretending, plain, barnlike build- 
 ing, with no ecclesiastical pretensions at all — a 
 bare stone floor, whitewashed walls, no seats of 
 any sort, a small, primitive pulpit at one end, in 
 which we stood with a thrill in our hearts, for it 
 is the same in which Schwartz so often preached. 
 The church is not now used ; it is empty, deserted, 
 silent! Why? I often asked; for it seems in 
 tolerable preservation, or might be if ordinary 
 care were taken to preserve it. One would like 
 to see an edifice like this, which has received the 
 consecration it has enjoyed, cared for and filled 
 daily for God's worship. 
 
 But another interest attaches to the church 
 besides its hallowed memories. The celebrated 
 monument by Flaxman, erected to the memory 
 of Schwartz by the Rajah Sarfoji, is placed in the 
 wall inside at the end of the building. It is a 
 very beautiful bas-relief in white marble, repre- 
 senting the dying missionary, his countenance 
 full of hope and holy peace, taking leave of the 
 king, who stands beside the couch weeping and 
 grasping the hand of his "father and friend," as 
 he always called him. A few of Schwartz's 
 pupils stand about and some of the king's minis- 
 ters behind. It is a most lovely work of art and 
 tells its touching and strange story exquisitely. 
 The inscription is in English. 
 
TANJORE. 
 
 99 
 
 The king himself wrote to the society at home 
 with which Schwartz was conuected to order the 
 monument, using these remarkable words: "I 
 have asked your missionaries .... to procure a 
 marble monument, which may be erected in their 
 church in my principal city and residence, to 
 keep up the remembrance of the departed revered 
 Father Schwartz and to testify to the extreme re- 
 spect with which I regard the character of that 
 great and good man and the gratitude I owe him 
 as my father and friend and the protector and 
 guardian of my youth." He adds, at the close of 
 his letter, "Oh, gentlemen, that you were but 
 able to send missionaries here who should resem- 
 ble the departed Schwartz!" Shall we not echo 
 this sentiment and turn it into a prayer to Him 
 who is able now as then to send forth such labor- 
 ers into His vineyard? 
 
 Another monument was erected to Schwartz 
 by the Honorable East India Company. It stands 
 in the fort church in Madras. 
 
 In 1749 Schwartz was ordained at Copen- 
 hagen, sailed from London, and arrived at Cud- 
 dalore the following year, and at once joined the 
 mission circle at Tranqucbar. "By the end of 
 the same year," says Fcnger, "he preached his 
 first sermon in Tamil." He himself tells that 
 the text of his first sermon was, *' Nevertheless at 
 
lOO 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 thy word I will let down the net; and when they 
 had done this they inclosed a great multitude of 
 fishes." He adds, "God has wrought in me hu- 
 mility and a childlike confidence in his word by 
 this text." It became the key-note of his whole 
 simple and devoted missionary life. He worked 
 for ten years in Tranquebar, then went to Trichi- 
 nopoly, where he founded a branch of the mis- 
 sion, and finally, in 1778, he settled in Tanjore. 
 By the following year this church was built, as 
 the simple inscription tells. He also erected 
 other buildings, such as schools and a mission- 
 house, and gathered a large congregation together, 
 training some of the more able from among his 
 converts to be pastors, evangelists, and teachers. 
 He labored for twenty years in Tanjore and is 
 said to have baptized over two thousand persons, 
 many of whom were of high caste. He died on 
 the 13th of February, 1798, in the seventy-second 
 year of his age, after forty-seven years of actual 
 service in the mission field. His brother mission- 
 ary, Mr. Gericke, who was present when he died, 
 tells that "he died in the arms of his faithful and 
 grateful native assistants," and speaks of the gen- 
 eral and profound grief his death awakened: "The 
 weeping and sobbing of the people in the two 
 Christian villages was most touching. We could 
 hear it all the night through. It is not we only," 
 
TANJORE. 
 
 lOl 
 
 he adds, ' ' who have lost a father, but the whole 
 country." Gericke also tells that the Tanjore 
 Mission and the institutions belonging to it had 
 been left his heirs. This was consistent with the 
 practice of his life; his liberality was extraordi- 
 nary, and whatever means he received he spent 
 not on himself, but on his beloved mission. 
 
 In his character there was a wonderful com- 
 bination of simplicity and power, and every one 
 who writes of him agrees as to the great influence 
 he possessed with the natives. He had also great 
 weight with the English Government. It is mat- 
 ter of history how useful he was in the embassy 
 to Hydcr Ali with which the Madras Government 
 intrusted him. "Let them send the Christian," 
 said the great warrior; "he will not deceive me." 
 And we have already seen how successful he was 
 in the educating and training of the young king. 
 Of his appearance and habits his friend Sir Wil- 
 liam Chambers gives the following interesting 
 description: "Picture to yourself a well-grown 
 man above middle height, holding himself nat- 
 urally, yet erect, of rather dark yet healthy com- 
 plexion, with black curly hair and a powerful, 
 manly glance, expressing unaffected modesty, up- 
 rightness, and benevolence, and then you have an 
 idea of the impression the first sight of Schwartz 
 makes on a stranger. A plateful of rice, with 
 
102 SCENKS IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 some vegetable curry, formed the daily meal to 
 which he sat down with a cheerful countenance, 
 and a piece of native cloth dyed black formed the 
 material for his dress for a year. Thus raised 
 above all earthly cares, his whole attention is 
 turned towards spreading the gospel." 
 
 But I must not go on, though the theme is a 
 tempting one; but one thing seems clear — it was 
 not so much his intellect or his undoubted saea- 
 city and prudence which gave him the command 
 he possessed over men, especially over the na- 
 tives, as it was the singular simplicity of aim 
 which characterized his life, his unselfishness 
 also, and the evident absence of all covetousness 
 in regard to money, spending as he did all he had 
 on God's work. Then, above all, there was the 
 manifest reality of his religion and the sincerity 
 of his personal godliness. These things showed 
 the power of God in him, and these told on the 
 natives and formed the secret of his influence and 
 success as a missionary. 
 
 A few glimmering rays of light had broken on 
 the midnight darkness of the Tanjore province in 
 the early days of the Danish Mission through the 
 labors of Rajnaiken, whose story I have told, but 
 the daybreak came with Schwartz. Darkness 
 was on the face of the deep, but the Spirit of God 
 moved upon the face of the waters. After a time, 
 
TAXJORE. 
 
 when he and his immediate successors had passed 
 away, the light perhaps grew dim, but now, in 
 these days of modern effort and fresh awakening 
 to the great interests of the heathen world, let us 
 hope and pray that it may soon grow bright again, 
 and wax brighter and brighter until the perfect 
 day of truth and righteousness shall have come 
 over the whole province. 
 
I04 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 DINDIGAL. ITS MEDICAL MISSION. 
 
 Our next halt is to be Dindigal, where there 
 is a flourishing branch of the American Mission, 
 which has worked in the province of Madura for 
 the last fifty years. 
 
 We had a most comfortable start, after a sub- 
 stantial breakfast, when a whole company of kind 
 people assembled on the platform to see us off. 
 Our carriage was stuffed with good things by our 
 very kindest of hostesses; even dark blinds for 
 the glaring windows were not forgotten. 
 
 It was a curious thing, as we sped over this 
 vast Tanjore plain, smiling now in green tran- 
 quillity, to think of the times, not so very far 
 past, when it was scoured by troops of fierce Ma- 
 ratha horse; "hordes of imperial robbers," Sir 
 Thomas Munro called them, doubtless with too 
 much justice, in those troublous times. INIany are 
 the legends which still survive of the doughty 
 deeds done by these wild warriors. It is certainly 
 a pleasant change now, when nothing is to be 
 seen but peaceful, waving crops and the staid 
 population and quiet, rural scenes. I have been 
 
DINDIGAL. ITS MEDICAL MISSION. I05 
 
 wondering whether they would rather go back to 
 the stirring days of native rule, when might was 
 right — fancying, perhaps, as distance lends en- 
 chantment to the view in various senses, that in 
 these old times they were better off. There is 
 one thing the people do heartily appreciate — that 
 now they can live in security, without dread of 
 dacoity or robbery, which used to be so rife, 
 or perhaps torture and death. They can even 
 travel now with their families from one end of 
 the land to the other, carrying their money-bags 
 and jewels with them, no one daring to make 
 them afraid. 
 
 We had hoped to pay a visit to Trichinopoly, 
 or Trichy, as it is popularly called, but we find 
 that cholera is raging in all the district, and our 
 kind friends at Tanjore would not hear of our 
 venturing into the infected city; we therefore re- 
 luctantly passed it by, prudently contenting our- 
 selves with what could be seen during the hour 
 our train halted at the station. 
 
 Trichinopoly is famed for more than its lovely 
 silver filigree-work or its cigars and tobacco. 
 Here the good Bishop Heber lies buried, and we 
 should have liked much to visit his tomb; and 
 here Schwartz labored most successfully. There 
 are missions of the present day also full of inter- 
 est. This is the headquarters of the Roman- 
 
Io6 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 catholic missions of the South, and I am told 
 that here they are particularly flourishing. 
 
 We managed to get an excellent though dis- 
 tant view of the famous "Rock," but it was a 
 great disappointment not to be able to explore its 
 wonderful chambers, which are said to be so 
 curious and intricate, and its extensive fortifica- 
 tions. Fine flights of steps ascend to its summit, 
 from which there must be a beautiful prospect of 
 mountain and plain, cities and temples. The 
 country immediately round, though generally fiat, 
 is dotted here and there with curious isolated 
 rocks and is cultivated and well wooded. The 
 casiiariiia^ or babjil-tx&G^ abounds, and the crops, 
 besides the staple rice, include sugar-cane, to- 
 bacco, and cotton. 
 
 Some time after we had passed Trichinopoly 
 we got into a region of hills, some of picturesque 
 formation and pretty with grass, broken jungle, 
 and rock. This was a most pleasant change from 
 the flat monotony of the scantily-peopled plains. 
 Some quaint beehive huts, with thatched roofs 
 shaped like extinguishers, lay nestling in brown 
 groups about the base of the hills, and the simple 
 people seemed busy in their little fields. There 
 are great plantations of the castor-oil plant, and 
 the ditches are filled with quantities of gigantic 
 feathery grasses, which are exceedingly beautiful. 
 
DIXDIGAL. ITS MEDICAL MISSION. IO7 
 
 As it grew cool in the evening and the shadows 
 were deepening beneath the trees we drew near 
 our journey's end. 
 
 As soon as we entered the station a vigorous 
 man, of middle age, with a ringing voice and 
 hearty manner, came straight to our carriage and 
 . welcomed us to Dindigal. This was Dr. Chester, 
 the well-known and much-respected head of the 
 medical branch of the IMadura ^Mission. He has 
 labored in Dindigal, which is his headquarters, 
 and in all the district round about for full twenty 
 years and has done a noble work, which grows 
 more important every day. We were soon in his 
 "trap," driven by the energetic doctor, with 
 whom we were at home in a moment; I thought 
 we had not seen so pretty a station on this side of 
 India. 
 
 We were received in the bowery porch of the 
 comfortable mission bungalow by Mrs. Chester, 
 who gave us as kindly a welcome as her husband 
 had done. The venerable missionary, Jilr. Chand- 
 ler, was beside her; he had driven in his bullock- 
 coach from his distant station on purpose to meet 
 us and carry us back with him if he could. But 
 this great pleasure cannot be ours at present. 
 
 The Chandlers are a missionary race. Like 
 the Gulicks of Japan and other American fam- 
 ilies, fathers and children have all cast in their 
 
SCENES IX SOrTIIERX INDIA. 
 
 lot with the same grand cause and are missiona- 
 ries in different parts of the heathen field. This 
 fine old man, who stood in the doorway as we 
 arrived and greeted us with so much feeling, has 
 grown gray in the servdce of his mission. He 
 was one of the first who came to INIadura. Soon 
 after we arrived his son came in from his station, 
 which lies quite in a different direction from his 
 father's, and we spent a delightful evening, chief- 
 ly in hearing of the progress of the Lord's work 
 in this successful and long-established mission. 
 It was commenced by the American Board of 
 Commissioners for Foreign ^Missions in 1834, and 
 the progress in all departments, with the results 
 in churches and .schools and Christian families, 
 naturally fills the hearts of the missionaries, as 
 well as those of the Board at home, with encour- 
 agement and thankfulness. 
 
 There are ten stations in all, with at least one 
 American missionary to each, the parish attached 
 to every station being somewhere about eight 
 hundred square miles ! The population of the 
 whole ]\Iadura province is nearly two millions, 
 and all these people, more or less, have been 
 brought under the sound and influence of the 
 gospel. Each missionary is expected to work 
 his eight hundred square miles, which of course 
 would be an impossibility but for the admirable 
 
DIXDIGAL. ITS MEDICAL MISSION. IO9 
 
 staff of native assistants attached to each station, 
 who have been carefully trained as pastors, evan- 
 gelists, catechists, Bible-women, and teachers. 
 
 This whole district is rich agriculturally and 
 possesses a great deal of material prosperity. The 
 people as a rule are well off and well dressed, and 
 among the coflfee-planters of the Lower Pulney 
 Hills not a few are natives. Money too seems 
 wonderfully abundant, and the people do not 
 seem to mind how much they spend on their fes- 
 tivals and weddings or in building themselves 
 better houses, and especially in erecting and en- 
 dowing new temples and Swami shrines. But 
 they also take a pride in having their children 
 educated and are quite willing to pay substantial 
 school -fees. 
 
 This flourishing district, of such immense ex- 
 tent, then, has been taken possession of for Christ 
 by these energetic Americans, and the banner of 
 the gospel floats over it from end to end. The 
 people generally do not offer much opposition 
 when preaching is going on, and they are not 
 altogether unfavorable to the spread of Chris- 
 tianity in their country'. Still the complaint is 
 the same as you hear expressed everywhere — that 
 the indifference displayed is often most disap- 
 pointing; they care for none of these things; they 
 acquiesce, agree that it is all true, and go away 
 
no SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 and forget all about it. And yet much has been 
 accomplished. In connection with the ten sta- 
 tions there are thirty-four native Christian con- 
 gregations, most of them ministered to by native 
 pastors, with a membership, besides adherents, of 
 2,827. These converts are drawn from all castes, 
 but chiefly from the Vellalas, or cultivators. Sev- 
 eral of the churches are self-sustaining, paying 
 their own pastor, and the district is covered with 
 a network of schools taught by Christian teach 
 ers, both male and female. All that is needed is 
 a rich effusion of the Holy Spirit of God, the 
 watering with the dew from heaven; then would 
 all this good seed, so diligently sowed, spring up 
 and "the glory of Lebanon" be given to this 
 whole province. 
 
 Dindigal is the headquarters of the medical 
 part of the mission, as Madura city is of other 
 departments; and Dr. Chester, a thoroughly edu- 
 cated medical man, and also an ordained clergy- 
 man, is the missionary who superintends it. 
 
 This morning we were astir betimes, and after 
 the early cup of tea, which only dwellers in the 
 tropics know how to appreciate, we joined our 
 host outside, and off we started to make the round 
 of the station and the mission premises. What a 
 joyous morning it was — fresh, cheery, and exhil- 
 arating ! The birds were in full chorus and the 
 
DINDIGAL. ITS MEDICAL MISSION. Ill 
 
 sun came mounting up from behind the hills into 
 the pearly sky with a gladsomeness that was quite 
 infectious. It was deliciously cool; this plateau 
 stands high, and the temperature was down to 58°. 
 
 In situation Dindigal is exceedingly pretty. 
 The plain, which is green and well wooded, is a 
 wide amphitheatre, almost entirely surrounded by 
 fine ranges of mountains, the chief being the 
 Sira-malis and Lower Pulneys. But the most 
 striking object and one which at once attracts 
 attention is the curious Dindigal Rock, which 
 stands quite by itself near the native city. It is a 
 great solid mass of granite, I think, bare and 
 brown and isolated, and you wonder if this curi- 
 ous natural fortress is really nature's own work- 
 manship. Man has certainly taken advantage of 
 it and utilized it for his own purposes. The face 
 of the rock is strongly fortified and its firm old 
 walls and ramparts look as if they could still re- 
 sist many a martial shock. 
 
 In ancient days this fort was an important 
 strategical position and was often the scene of 
 tough encounters between the Marathas and the 
 people of Mysore. In 1755 Hyder Ali garrisoned 
 it, and afterwards it was greatly strengthened 
 by Tippoo-Sultan, from whom finally, in 1792, 
 the British took it. The summit is crowned by 
 some temples with their tall pagoda-towers, and 
 
112 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 altogether it is a most picturesque and striking 
 feature in the scene. At the base a bit of green 
 esplanade stretches, very like a village common 
 at home. 
 
 We drove through the native town, which has 
 wide streets wonderfully clean, where the differ- 
 ent castes live in separate quarters. The Brah- 
 man street looked particularly tidy, with neat 
 little houses and a stone bench built in in front, 
 where the men were sitting, wrapped in their 
 "cloths," sunning themselves. 
 
 Dr. Chester's work is very interesting and 
 varied. He is obliged to exercise the functions 
 of an ordinary missionary, preaching, itinerating, 
 etc., and dispensing the sacraments in places con- 
 nected with his district where there is no ordained 
 native helper. But the chief interest lies in his 
 medical work, the organization of which seems 
 perfect. He took us over his dispensary, which 
 stands in a large compound with its well-stocked 
 drugstore, its waiting-rooms and surgery, to which 
 are attached an apothecary, a good staff of dressers, 
 and other assistants. We then saw his rest-house, 
 where there is accommodation for people of four 
 different castes while waiting for treatment, and 
 then his Cottage Hospitals with native Christian 
 nurses in attendance. He favors the plan of 
 cottage hospitals, and has several small bunga- 
 
DINDIGAL. ITS MEDICAL MISSION. II3 
 
 lows as wards, affording accommodation also for 
 a few convalescent patients. In the department 
 specially set apart for women Dr. Chester intro- 
 dnced us to a very intelligent, pleasing woman, 
 a native Christian, the head matron of the Lying- 
 in Hospital. She is thoroughly trained and 
 holds a diploma from the Government Medical 
 vSchool in Madras, and is quite capable of herself 
 conducting difficult and dangerous cases. There 
 are two other such native Christian nurses, who 
 are employed in district hospitals. Finally the 
 doctor introduced us to his medical school, in 
 which there arc thirty students occupying three 
 class-rooms; and bright, intelligent, young fellows 
 they looked. Most are Christians; there are few 
 Hindoos; but I noticed only one who had an 
 idolatrous mark on his forehead. The students 
 are admitted after a competitive examination. 
 The course of study is for three years; and the 
 young men who pass out, after thorough exami- 
 nations, are appointed as hospital assistants to 
 stations generally connected with the mission. 
 Who can tell the good which may result when 
 these fully-trained young men go forth among 
 the people and new branch dispensaries arc set 
 up and additional hospitals established? Their 
 medical skill will open every heathen door to 
 them; and nmre than this, many a heathen heart 
 
 hcCQUH 111 Suulliciit IiMlla. 3 
 
114 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 will be opened, and people will be led to the 
 Physician of souls. I hope the time will come 
 when a medical department will be connected 
 with every mission. Surely none should be con- 
 sidered complete until a dispensary stands side by 
 side'with the schoolroom and the church. 
 
 Dr. Chester has already ten branch dispensa- 
 ries in different parts of the district, all of which 
 he personally superintends, and their number is 
 increased as students are prepared to take charge 
 of them. The number of cases treated in the 
 whole mission in the past year was over 46,000. 
 
 We next paid a visit to the church, and were 
 introduced to the native pastor, Mr. Colton, a 
 superior, earnest man, with whom we had much 
 cheering intercourse. He told us of his schools, 
 especially of his large Sunday-school, which is 
 attended by heathen and Mohammedan as well 
 as Christian children, all of whom alike are 
 taught a great deal of Scripture by heart. Some 
 of these heathen children intelligently refuse to 
 worship the idol when there is any festival in 
 their village. This pastor is supported entirely 
 by his congregation. 
 
 I noticed that all the buildings were substan- 
 tial, clean, airy, and well ventilated, but exceed- 
 ingly plain and suited to the occupants. There 
 is no needless expenditure anywhere; and Dr. 
 
DINDIGAL. ITS MEDICAL MISSION. I15 
 
 Chester, though he does not refuse his services 
 when called in as a medical man, never accepts a 
 fee. 
 
 Before leaving Dindigal we paid a visit to 
 the Training-school of the Christian Vernacular 
 Education Society, of which Mr. Evans is Prin- 
 cipal. There seems to be rather a deficiency of 
 accommodation, which this important and useful 
 Society ought to increase. My husband had been 
 requested by the society at home to see their semi- 
 naries in India as far as possible, and he was 
 greatly pleased with this one at Dindigal. Mr. 
 Evans evidently labors for and with his pupils, a 
 good many of whom are native Christians. Some 
 of the missions send their young men here to be 
 trained, after which they return to their stations 
 as teachers. The students gave us specimens of 
 their power of teaching, which were very amu- 
 sing, as they tried to puz;zle each other and then 
 criticised the questioner. This system must make 
 them very sharp. They also sang some hymns 
 and lyrics both in Tamil and English. 
 
 This Christian Vernacular Education Society 
 does indeed a most important work in India — its 
 master-spirit being our friend Dr. Murdoch, whose 
 indefatigable labors as secretary have mainly 
 helped to make the society the valuable institu- 
 tion it is. It dates back to 1857 when it was cs- 
 
Il6 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDI;». 
 
 tablishcd directly after the Mutiny. It trains 
 teachers, supports primary schools, sends forth 
 colporters who sell many thousand copies of the 
 Scriptures and other publications during the year; 
 while Dr. IMurdoch scatters his admirable series 
 of schoolbooks broadcast over the land, and is 
 always producing something new and fresh in 
 other useful books. The society has three great 
 training institutions, one at Ahmednagar, one in 
 the Punjaub, and this one in Dindigal. 
 
 Altogether we had a busy day in the hands of 
 our energetic host, including a visit to Mrs. Ches- 
 ter's boarding-school, full of bright Christian girls. 
 We felt to the full how stimulating it is to come 
 in contact with men of large views and undaunted 
 spirit, full of practical wisdom too, like these mis- 
 sionaries, w^ho seem to know no difficulty. This 
 is one of the things Dr. Chester says: "Be sure 
 you are right, then go ahead. This will make 
 any mission plan a success, while croakers and 
 drones go to their graves still fearing to put their 
 fingers to it. It is the ' go-ahcad ' as well as the 
 ' be sure you are right ' which is needed in India 
 in every part of the mission work." 
 
 I commend these words to the careful consid- 
 eration of all who have to do with mission work 
 at home as well as on the foreign field. 
 
 After au early dinner we were again cn route, 
 
DINDIGAL. ITS MEDICAL MISSION. II7 
 
 accompanied by the younger Mr. Chandler, who 
 was returning to his home; and by the time the 
 sun was sinking towards the western hills we had 
 taken our places in the train corresponding to 
 that which we had quitted 24 hours before. We 
 had a sunset of singular beauty, and the mountain 
 ranges looked inexpressibly grand in their dark 
 blue outline beneath a sky full of the most exqui- 
 site and gorgeous color. A broad line of deep 
 blood red lay along the horizon, shading off up- 
 wards into glowing amber and then to the most 
 delicate lemon tints and aqua-marine, until all 
 color was lost in the darkening upper sky, where 
 by-and-by the cheery stars came twinkling out 
 one by one. 
 
 Mr. Chandler pointed out the Higher Pulneys 
 as we came in sight of them in the darkening dis- 
 tance, where the coffee and cinchona are largely 
 cultivated. There is a delightful sanitarium 
 somewhere on the summits, which the American 
 Board, with its usual consideration, has provided 
 for its missionaries. In the height of the hot 
 season each mission family can escape to these 
 charming hills and have two months of coolness 
 and rest. This sanitarium was established when 
 wild elephants and tigers were still the chief in- 
 habitants. But now many other residents are at- 
 tracted from the plains by the pleasauter climate 
 
Il8 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 of the mountains during the hottest portion of the 
 year. When we came to his station ]\Ir. Chand- 
 ler left us, driving away into the darkness to his 
 dwelling, lying twelve miles off in some valley 
 behind the giant wall of hills. How I wished we 
 could have gone with him to see his wife and 
 work and mission home ! But it could not be. 
 
 A long sweep round the base of the Sira-malis 
 concluded our two and a half hours' journey, and 
 we glided into the station at Madura. Late as it 
 was, the Rev. Mr. Rendall, head of this branch 
 of the mission, awaited us. After a good two 
 miles' drive, chiefly through an extensive native 
 city with very wide and very dark streets, we 
 passed a handsome white church, which Mr. Ren- 
 dall pointed out as his own, then turned into a 
 large compound and stopped under the well-light- 
 ed, hospitable-looking porch of the mission-house. 
 Here Miss Rendall was waiting to receive us, and 
 the welcome tea was ready spread in the room 
 within. 
 
 Mr. Rendall is a widower, and he and his 
 daughter live and work together. He has la- 
 bored in this mission since 1834. These short so- 
 journs in the homes of the missionaries make one 
 of the most delightful and enjoyable parts "of our 
 tour and certainly will furnish some of its pleas- 
 antest memories. 
 
MADURA AND ITS MISSIONS. 
 
 119 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 MADURA AND ITS MISSIONS. 
 
 The day after our arrival in Madura was Sun- 
 day. My husband had happily arranged that we 
 should have a Sabbath in this important centre, 
 that we might see the Sabbath work; for this is 
 the headquarters of the great American Madura 
 Mission, generally called by its own Board, the 
 American Board of Commissioners for Foreign 
 Missions, "the model mission." 
 
 I was too tired, after our grand field day at 
 Dindigal, to be quite in time to accompany the 
 rest of the party to the early morning service in 
 the native church ; but by-and-by, hearing a 
 lady's voice outside inquiring for me, I hurried 
 out and found Mrs. Capron, a lady I was glad in- 
 deed to meet. Her name is a familiar one in con- 
 nection with woman's work in India. Her hus- 
 band was one of the early Madura missionaries; 
 but he died; and instead of abandoning the field 
 she only saw a new call in her less occupied life 
 to devote herself more entirely to God's work 
 among her poor heathen sisters. She sent her 
 children home to America to be educated, and has 
 
I20 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 ever since labored in Madura, and with wonderful 
 success. Her work is very varied; she teaches in 
 the zenanas, conducts a dispensary in connection 
 with Dr. Chester, has several day-schools, and re- 
 ceives many women in her own house. 
 
 She and I soon became friends, and we sallied 
 forth together. She led me through the spacious 
 compound, which has within its wide inclosure 
 the complete paraphernalia of a mission. Beside 
 the mission-house stands the bungalow occupied 
 by Mrs. Capron and her assistant lady missionary; 
 then come the dispensary, the dressers' premises, 
 and other houses. On the opposite side are Miss 
 Kendall's day and boarding schools, including a 
 handsome and commodious building just erected 
 to provide class-rooms for her higher school. It 
 makes a capital public hall also for all manner of 
 purposes, and is called the Otis Hall because it 
 was built by a grant from a munificent legacy of 
 a million dollars left by a Mr. Otis to the Ameri- 
 can Board at Boston to aid them in their great 
 missionary undertakings. 
 
 Mrs. Capron and I hurried to the Tamil ser- 
 vice and entered the large church we had passed 
 the evening before when driving in. It was 
 closely packed throughout by a congregation of 
 well-dressed men and women seated separately. 
 Miss Kendall's sixty-six Christian schoolgirls oc- 
 
MADURA AND ITS MISSIONS. 121 
 
 cupied one section, seated closely packed on the 
 floor; she herself had been presiding at the organ 
 and my husband was preaching with great anima- 
 tion in English, being interpreted by a fine-look- 
 ing, oldish man, whom we found afterwards to be 
 Pastor Cornelius. Responses were used and the 
 service was a good deal liturgical, though the 
 prayers were not read. The music was excellent, 
 the hymns being partly English and partly Tamil 
 lyrics with native tunes. 
 
 After all was over the pleasant-looking people 
 crowded round us, and we had much talk and 
 shaking of hands. Some of the fine young men 
 whom we saw conduct the weekly praj er-meeting 
 by turns and spend the Sunday afternoons in going 
 out among the villages and districts, preaching 
 the Word and holding prayer-meetings. Some of 
 the young women meet in the girls' school every 
 week and have prayer together, and there seems 
 to be generally a vitality of faith and love among 
 these Christians and a good deal of spiritual life, 
 which is refreshing to see. 
 
 A strange prophecy had gone forth somehow 
 that the Lord's second advent was to take place 
 in the end of 1881, and there was a widespread 
 expectancy and excitement all over South India. 
 Some people left off work and said and did other 
 foolish things; but the movement had this effect, 
 
122 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 that the heathen were roused as well as the Chris- 
 tians, and many began to inquire and to read and 
 study the Christians' Bible to find out what it had 
 to say on the point. The missionaries hope that, 
 though the excitement has passed away, the inter- 
 est in the Bible continues and will yet lead some 
 to Christ. 
 
 After breakfast Dr. Mitchell went to the Sun- 
 day-school in connection with Mr, Kendall's Eng- 
 lish city school and again gave an address. He 
 says there were a good many Brahman lads pres- 
 ent, who were as sharp as needles, but did not cavil 
 nearly as much as a similar class in Maharashtra 
 would have done. I spent most of the morning 
 with Mrs. Capron, hearing about her work, in the 
 special sanctum where she receives private visits 
 from her "dear women," as she calls them. I 
 sat at her feet and learned much from her. She 
 is a grave, earnest, middle-aged woman, her whole 
 face and manner being expressive of calm, sub- 
 dued power and purpose. Her work is systemat- 
 ically and beautifully arranged, not only her own, 
 but that of the six Bible-women she employs. 
 She could not do half she does but for her great 
 power of organization and perfect system. Five 
 hundred women in her zenanas are now learning 
 to read the Bible, and the extraordinary number 
 of over fifteen thousand have had the liible read 
 
MADURA AND ITS MISSIONS. 
 
 123 
 
 to them by herself and her Bibie-women during 
 the past year. Surely this sowing of the seed 
 broadcast must soon produce its fruit in souls 
 saved and brought to the feet of Christ. 
 
 Besides this zenana visitation she has four day- 
 schools, some of which I had the pleasure of vis- 
 iting, and in one helped to give aw^ay some little 
 gifts as prizes, which greatly delighted the bonny 
 little brown bairnies, who gathered in great num- 
 bers in the upper schoolroom where they were dis- 
 tributed. Her pupils, old and young, all seem to 
 be very fond of her and to trust her perfectly. 
 She has an additional hold of them through her 
 medical knowledge and the dispensing of medi- 
 cine, which takes place every morning. How 
 she manages it all I cannot tell. 
 
 One of the most interesting parts of her work 
 consists in the visits the women pay to her, for 
 here happily the women are not so secluded as in 
 some other parts and may venture forth from their 
 zenanas. She told me many anecdotes of these 
 visits, which show most encouraging progress and 
 inquiry' among the people. One dying woman in 
 a heathen home said to her the other day, "I am 
 thinking so much of the thief on the cross beside 
 Jesus. He said to him, '■To-day you will be with 
 me in heaven.' Oh, do you think he will say 
 this to me on this my last dying day ?" Another 
 
124 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 woman, when reproached by her priest for giving 
 up idolatry, retorted, ''Which of our gods have 
 suffered anything for us? See what the Chris- 
 tians' Christ has suffered for them?" She had 
 read Luke's Gospel with Mrs. Capron. Another 
 intelligent woman, not a Christian, but one whom 
 she had instructed for some time, havincr no chil- 
 dren and plenty of leisure, interested herself in 
 the daughters of a neighbor's family. She got 
 them to come to her house, bought books for 
 them, and taught them to read. When they were 
 sufficiently advanced to read the Bible she per- 
 suaded them to become pupils of the Mem-Sahib 
 and handed them over to Mrs. Capron. 
 
 Another of her pupils, who had been obliged 
 to go to a neighboring city, returned after a time 
 and said to her, ' There I found the water good 
 and the air good, but here I receive the living 
 water, and it is good to come back." The morn- 
 ing I was sitting with, her she received a most 
 touching letter from one of her pupils, a heathen 
 woman, telling her of the death of the husband of 
 a friend. She expresses great grief, for now her 
 friend is a widow (and we all know what that 
 means); "but," she adds, "she knows Christ as 
 her ref;:ge; he will comfort her." Is not this re- 
 markable language for one not a professed Chris- 
 tian to use? But she must be a Christian in 
 
MADURA AND ITS MISSIONS. 
 
 heart; probably one of His hidden ones, of whom 
 there are many, I believe, to be found in the 
 homes of India. Another woman won her unbe- 
 lieving husband to Christ by inducing- him when 
 very ill to listen to IMrs. Capron as she knelt 
 down and offered itp earnest prayer for him by 
 what seemed to be his dying bed. 
 
 In her schools and houses Mrs. Capron has 200 
 subscribers for a Sunday-school magazine. Her 
 chief work, and that of her Bible-women, always 
 is teaching, expounding, and reading to the wo- 
 men the Word of God. Every other kind of in- 
 struction has a secondary place. She gives them 
 text-cards also, from which they learn verses by 
 heart; and this bears its own fruit. She is by no 
 means alone in this work for women. • It is dili- 
 gently prosecuted by all the missionaries' wives in 
 the various districts and a large staff of Bible-wo- 
 men and zenana teachers. The converting power 
 of God's own simple Word, carried home by the 
 Holy Spirit, is often seen in a striking and unex- 
 pected way among the people even in remote vil- 
 lages. This is partly from her work and that of 
 other ladies in other places and partly from the 
 constant labors of the preachers and evangelists. 
 Cases arc discovered by the missionaries in which 
 idolatry has been abandoned and the almost " un- 
 known God " worshipiK'd instead, simply from 
 
126 
 
 SCENES IN 
 
 SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 having been listeners to Bible-reading at some 
 time or other. Some are so afraid of the influ- 
 ence of this wonderful Book that they frankly say 
 they cannot continue to listen. They say too that 
 since the famine the gods themselves are afraid 
 their power is departing and have gone off to the 
 jungles and mountains. 
 
 There is constant itineracy -going on through- 
 out the province, and there is much encourage- 
 ment in j)reaching the Word. Mr. Rendall says 
 over 300,000 people are having the gospel preached 
 to them. jNIuch use is made of singing and the 
 people are greatly attracted by it, especially when 
 lyrics are vised. Dr. Sutton, of Orissa, says, "The 
 people here are fast singing away their prejudi- 
 ces." So may it be said of the IMadura district. 
 The lyrics are sung to native tunes, or, rather, are 
 chanted, with a monotonous refrain which is high- 
 ly pleasing to native taste. 
 
 One could not help being struck with the 
 completeness and thorough nature of the work in 
 every department of this mission. The schools 
 for both bo}'s and girls are admirable, and the 
 buildings and arrangements the same. I have 
 already referred to Miss Rendall's institution. 
 Her boarding-school is altogether for the daugh- 
 ters of native Christians and the agents of the 
 mission, and every missionary lady has her own 
 
MADURA AND ITS MISSIONS. I27 
 
 boarding-school at her own station. Thus the 
 children of the native Christians are all well 
 trained and educated, a most important matter; 
 and good Christian workers are also trained and 
 sent out to villages and districts as teachers, Bible- 
 women, etc., according to their ability or fitness. 
 Miss Rendall teaches up to the middle standard 
 and receives a large grant from Government. 
 Fourteen different castes are represented in her 
 day-schools, but caste is not observed in any way 
 in the mission. All church members sit promis- 
 cuously at the Lord's tabl.e; but the different 
 castes do not care to intermarry. Some mission- 
 aries think it is as well for social reasons that 
 they should not do so at present. 
 
 And yet, prosperous as this mission is, here as 
 elsewhere the cry is. How much more might be 
 done if funds were forthcoming ! Alas, every- 
 where devoted missionaries seem crushed by the 
 word "retrench." "We cannot send means we 
 have not got," say the Boards. It is true, they 
 cannot. Then let me say to Christian friends who 
 love the work and who can give the means that 
 now missionaries are heart-stricken in presence of 
 a work they might do, but cannot even touch, 
 having resolutely to shut their cars to the cry, 
 "Come over and help us," because they have not 
 the means. They are like generals in front of an 
 
128 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 enemy's position, which they feel they could carry 
 if only men and means, the sinews of war, were 
 sufficiently placed at their disposal. Oh, that 
 Christian and philanthropic people in Britain and 
 America would but lay this to heart ! 
 
 Madura was and is the seat of one of the chief 
 Roman-catholic missions in India. The fame of 
 Xavier has naturally eclipsed that of all other 
 Romish missionaries, but it would be wrong to 
 forget the labors of such men as Roberto de No- 
 bili and Beschi. The former, a nephew of the 
 celebrated Cardinal Bellarminc, labored from 
 1606. The natives called him TatwabodJiak-Szva- 
 ini^ or the "philosophical teacher." The moral 
 character of some of the proceedings of the Jesuit 
 missionaries has been vehemently assailed by Ro- 
 manists as well as Protestants; but it is unneces- 
 sary to enter on this painful subject here. There 
 is a handsome modern Roman -catholic church 
 close by, which my husband has seen. It contains 
 a good many pictures, including two or three por- 
 traits of Xavier. The priests do not preach in 
 public or in the streets; their services are all con- 
 ducted in their churches ; but processions are nu- 
 merous, when images are carried about through 
 the city. 
 
 Since this delightful visit to Madura was paid, 
 our dear friend who then so kindly entertained us 
 
MADURA AND ITS MISSIONS. 1 29 
 
 has been called to his rest. The Rev. Mr. Ren- 
 dall died towards the end of 1S83. When we saw 
 liini he seemed in vigorous health, and one could 
 not but hope that many days of faithful work for 
 his beloved mission were still before him. But 
 the Master has seen fit to order it otherwise and 
 to summon his servant home. His loss is deeply 
 and increasingly felt by his associates, and he is 
 most truly mourned by the whole native Chris- 
 tian community. 
 
 In a memorial address by Dr. Chester, of Din- 
 digal, he says of this admirable missionar}- : 
 "Love was the secret of Mr. Rendall's power as 
 a Christian and as a missionary. A more unself- 
 ish man never lived His whole wish was 
 
 to see the kingdom of the heavenly Master come, 
 and come speedily, in India and in the Madura 
 district. Every meeting he attended, the work 
 of every committee of which he was a member, 
 every letter he wrote, every sermon he preached, 
 and every address he made proved this." 
 
 Arenra In nonl)if<ni ]n<lli 
 
 9 
 
130 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 MADURA AND ITS TEMPLES. 
 
 Besides the missions there is much to interest 
 iu this curious old place. Madura was once the 
 capital of a great and powerful kingdom, having 
 a stirring history, like most of its neighbors; and 
 it is still a remarkable and extensive city. It 
 abounds in temples, palaces, fine old tanks, tow- 
 ers and cupolas, and other striking architectural 
 monuments. These amply testify to the great- 
 ness of its past, as well as add much to the pic- 
 turesqueness of its present. It has also a good 
 deal of natural beauty. The modern city covers 
 an immense area, and has unusually wide streets, 
 with low, whitewashed houses generally orna- 
 mented with stripes and patches of color, espe- 
 cially in the Brahmans' streets, and stone benches 
 built on to the houses, where }'0U can often catch 
 a quaint and pleasing picture from the life of the 
 people. The streets are wonderfully clean and 
 tidy and tolerably free from those peculiar odors— 
 certainly not those of " Araby the blest" — which 
 usually assail one in Indian cities. There a'-e 
 open spaces here and there full of greenness and 
 
MADURA AND ITS TEMPLES. 
 
 sunshine; long wide avenues fringed with beauti- 
 ful trees; great groves of the palmyra palm; large, 
 park-like compounds, where the Europeans re- 
 side; and, in the midst of all, paddy-fields curious- 
 ly intermingling with the streets and buildings, so 
 that the whole place looks framed in richest green; 
 while the lofty goparams^ or pagoda-towers of the 
 temples, rise majestically and with most pictu- 
 resque effect over the whole. 
 
 It must have been a splendid city in the days 
 of the famous Tirumalai Naik, who reigned in the 
 seventeenth century, and who did much for the 
 strengthening and beautifying of his capital. 
 Even now it is the finest city of South India. 
 The oldest parts date from the time of the Pan- 
 dyan kings, before the Christian era. 
 
 A flourishing period in the history of this king- 
 dom seems to have been about the first or second 
 century after Christ, when the famous rishi, or 
 sage, Agastya, lived. He is said to have been the 
 introducer of Brahmanical civilization into South 
 India. His exploit in leading a colony of Brah- 
 mans southward is mentioned in the Sanscrit 
 poem, the "Ramayan;" but the date — indeed, 
 everything about this enlightened personage, said 
 to have been the offspring of two gods — is most 
 uncertain, if not mythical. A learned author calls 
 him " the fabled civilizcr of the South." 
 
132 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 Very early this morning, while it was still 
 cool, our kind host, accompanied by one or two 
 of his native assistants, took us out to see the far- 
 famed pagoda, the finest temple, I suppose, in all 
 India. Certainly none of those we have seen, 
 even in the holiest cities of the Hindoos in other 
 parts of India, at all approach this one in gran- 
 deur and extent and also in the value of its en- 
 dowments and its jewels. But how shall I de- 
 scribe this extraordinary place in all its curious 
 and endless ramifications? What seems to re- 
 main in the mind of the wonderful things which 
 go to make up this gorgeous temple is a confused 
 and bewildering recollection of halls and corridors 
 and labyrinthine passages, cloisters and crypts 
 and shrines, with all their puzzling native names, 
 grotesque deities, grifiins, and quaint hybrid crea- 
 tures carved in stone and wood, gilding and paint- 
 ing and carving and pictures, and strange archi- 
 tecture such as one had never seen before, while 
 the notes, hurriedly taken on the spot, only seem 
 at the first look to make "confusion worse con- 
 founded." 
 
 This great fabric covers 20 acres of ground 
 and is surrounded by a lofty brick wall, forming 
 a perfect square and ornamented by red and white 
 stripes, the holy color of the Hindoos. It is dedi- 
 cated to the god Shiva and his wife Minakshi, or 
 
MADURA AND ITS TEMPLES. 
 
 "the fish-eyed goddess;" probably, my husband 
 says, an aboriginal deity, who has been identified 
 with Durga of Bengal and Par^'ati of Western In- 
 dia, the wives of Shiva. As you approach the 
 mighty fane what you are first struck with are 
 the grand goparams^ or towers, which are pyra- 
 midal in structure and are peculiar to this Dravi- 
 dian style of architecture. These are very lofty 
 and massive, in shape a truncated cone, gorgeous- 
 ly carved and colored and ornamented, the sum- 
 mit being crowned with a fan-shaped erection like 
 the hood of a snake. The entire cone is covered, 
 row on row and tier on tier, with elaborately 
 carved Hindoo deities. Many thousands of the 
 gods of the Hindoo Pantheon are thus sculptured 
 on the exteriors of these pagoda-towers. I forget 
 how many towers there are connected with this 
 temple, but they rise over the gateways, ornament 
 the four comers of the walls, crown the inferior 
 shrines, and from one point near the sacred tank I 
 counted thirteen visible at once, two or more of 
 which were covered with gold and gleamed with 
 dazzling brightness in the sunlight. 
 
 We entered the main edifice by a huge, mas- 
 sive, carved gateway of tcakwood, guarded on 
 each side by the most fantastic mythological fig- 
 ures sculptured in stone. Opposite the gateway 
 are four lofty pillars or shafts, 45 feet high and 
 
134 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 sunk 15 feet below the surface of the ground, 
 most beautifully carved, and each composed of a 
 single stone. Entering we found ourselves in a 
 handsome court called the Mandapam^ a sort of 
 arcade, with a stone roof supported by rows of 
 fine pillars, ending in a raised dais or throne, the 
 canopy of which is supported by lovely spiral col- 
 umns of highly-polished black basalt. This outer 
 court is used as a place of merchandise, putting 
 one in mind of the gospel narrative of those who 
 bought and sold in the temple who were cast out 
 by Christ. IMany people were seated cross-legged 
 on their mats beneath the arches, with all manner 
 of wares spread out around them, and evidently 
 doing an active business. 
 
 From this we entered another hall of grand 
 proportions, within which is the chief sanctuary, 
 the shrine which contains the sokaliiiga^ or sacred 
 symbol of the god Shiva. Into this shrine no one 
 is allowed to penetrate but the Brahman priest. 
 It stands beneath a golden cupola, two huge, fu- 
 rious-looking creatures keeping fantastic watch 
 on either side of the entrance. Within lights 
 glimmer in the darkness, and opposite stands a 
 gigantic Nmidi^ or sacred bull, on which Shiva 
 usually rides, also in black basalt, under a cano- 
 py supported by four slender columns most exqui- 
 sitely carved. This figure is surrounded by tall. 
 
MADURA AND ITS TEMPLES. 
 
 graceful candelabra in gold, and in front is a gold- 
 en altar. The elaborateness of the workmanship 
 everywhere is extraordinary, and the lavish ex- 
 penditure which must be practised in order to 
 keep it all in preservation and repair is equally 
 surprising. 
 
 From this we wandered over corridors and 
 cloisters of immense extent, all filled with curi- 
 ous things in pictures and carvings, absurd figures 
 in every fantastic attitude, with elephants and 
 bulls, peacocks with expanded tails, and other 
 creatures, all made of pure gold, ready for carry- 
 ing forth in grand procession at festival times. A 
 fellow-tourist, who joined our party, exclaimed, 
 "What grand loot for the Russians when they 
 come!" "Yes, wJien they come,'''' we replied. 
 The jewels belonging to this temple, with which 
 the gods and goddesses are decked on great occa- 
 sions, are of extraordinary beauty and value. 
 
 In passing through one long aisle we disturbed 
 a numerous colony of bats, the rush of their flap- 
 ping wings making the most dismal sounds in the 
 arched roof The whole place too was filled with 
 the horrid din of tomtoms and the shrill noise of 
 pipes, reverberating through the weird gloom of 
 the passages and giving one quite an uncanny 
 feeling. At one place we came on a reservoir 
 filled with abominable things unutterable. All 
 
136 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 the libations poured out and on to the gods, of 
 holy water, oil, ghee, curd, milk, paint, etc., flow 
 in one loathsome stream into this reservoir, where 
 it remains, stagnant and poisonous. Horrible to 
 tell, this disgusting mixture is actually drunk, 
 partaken of by devotees and their dupes, because 
 it is said to cleanse away all sin. There is no 
 crime, however dreadful or unnatural, that this 
 potion cannot cleanse, no sin so unpardonable but 
 that, if this is imbibed, the offender shall be for- 
 given ! 
 
 Is there any depth of error or degradation too 
 low for the human mind to descend to? Would 
 that these miserable people could have their eyes 
 opened to see the true fountain which has been 
 opened for sin and uncleanness and learn to avail 
 themselves of its real pardoning and purifying 
 power ! 
 
 Before we passed from the temple a great man 
 arrived in grand procession to worship. He had 
 brought some holy water from Mother Gunga to 
 offer to the god, and, being a rich merchant of the 
 Chetty caste, he rode on an elephant gaudily ca- 
 parisoned in gold and silver trappings. The huge 
 beast strode right through the cloisters, making 
 the people fly to right and left, flapped his great 
 ears and tossed his trunk, grunting and snorting 
 as if he did not half like his mission. The great 
 
BELL MnSIO OSED AT DEVIL WORSHIP- 
 
 TA.NK ,\\U ll.Ml'Lli Al' MAUUKA. 
 
MADURA AND ITS TKMPLES. 
 
 man was accompanied by a numerous and pictu- 
 resque following, carrying red umbrellas, little 
 brown and red flags, tails of the yak cow, etc. 
 As we walked through the Hall of the Thou- 
 sand Pillars we were accosted by some holy men 
 smeared all over with ashes, having hardly any 
 other covering, who did not at all seem to relish 
 our intrusion. But Mr. Rendall everywhere was 
 received and treated with perfect respect. 
 
 There was once a famous school of poets in 
 connection with the temple, and we saw the clois- 
 ter where they used to have their sittings. Final- 
 ly we visited the famous sacred Tank of the Gold- 
 en Lotus. It is a sheet of dirty green water with 
 stone steps descending to it, the banks being also 
 faced with stone. A broad, terraced, paved walk 
 goes completely round, beneath a handsome colon- 
 nade of beautiful pillars carv^ed in relief, while the 
 whole is encircled by a high wall. Men were busi- 
 ly employed all along this wall, standing on scaf- 
 foldings, restoring old frescos and pictures in the 
 gayest coloring. These chiefly represented fights 
 between the Brahmans and Jains, a quasi-Buddhist 
 sect, wherein the latter always seemed to come 
 worst off" and to be cruelly maltreated, as, no 
 doubt, they were in fact, when the Hindoos suc- 
 ceeded in almost banishing them and their faith 
 from Madura, where they were once paramount. 
 
138 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 It is not easy to find out the exact date when 
 this temple was founded, but the building seems 
 to have been begun before the Christian era, and 
 is, indeed, of all ages, having been added to at 
 different dates. Whatever its origin and age, 
 however, its fame is chiefly bound up with that 
 of Tirumalai Naik, who added to the original 
 structure some of its finest halls and shrines. 
 
 The palace also, which we next visited, is as- 
 sociated with this great ruler. He built it and 
 lived in it when it was in all its glory. Now, 
 even in comparative ruin, it is a magnificent 
 building; its style of architecture, which is quite 
 different from that of the pagoda, being a mixture 
 of Hindoo and Saracenic. Government is now 
 liaving it extensively and carefully restored, and 
 its spacious halls are to be utilized for public 
 olBces. As you enter there is a splendid quad- 
 rangular court, with side aisles which have roofs 
 elaborately carved in relief with mythological 
 subjects and supported by double rows of mas- 
 sive granite pillars, coated with finely-polished 
 chunam. From one end of this handsome court a 
 broad flight of steps leads to the main hall, which 
 is quite as grand in its projwrtions as the court. 
 It is surmounted by a beautiful domed roof, very 
 lofty, and skirted by open galleries, and has the 
 same sort of pillars as ornament the outer court 
 
MADURA AND ITS TEMPLES. 
 
 and other chambers. In one of the chambers 
 there are some graceful columns in black basalt. 
 Altogether, within and without, it is a most im- 
 posing structure. 
 
 In the afternoon we had tea with Mrs. Hutch- 
 ins, the wife of the judge, and saw in the com- 
 pound the finest and biggest banyan tree, I fancy, 
 that exists. They say it is larger even than the 
 wonderful old tree in the Botanic Gardens in Cal- 
 cutta. Quite an army of graceful slender stems 
 descend from the great canopy of upper branches 
 and are most beautifully trained and cared for by 
 Mr. Hutchins. A real army might encamp be- 
 neath the shadow of this magnificent specimen of 
 the monarch of Indian woods, so wide an area 
 does it cover. Of course, one could not look at 
 the majestic tree without recalling Milton's de- 
 scription: 
 
 "The fig-tree, not that kind for fruit renowned, 
 But such as at this day, to Indians known. 
 In Malabar or Deccan spreads lier arms." 
 
 Miss Rendall then drove us round and round 
 a magnificent tank, a great sheet of water in- 
 closed by walls of solid masonry, also a monument 
 of the enlightened ruler I have already often re- 
 ferred to, Tirumalai Naik. At festival times 
 this whole immense square, in the centre of which 
 a temple stands, is lit up with thousands upon 
 
140 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 thousands of tiny oil lamps, which must have the 
 loveliest effect, like the glimmering and gleaming 
 of mj-riad fireflies. On such occasions all the 
 grand golden things of the temple are brought 
 forth by the priests and borne aloft in gorgeous 
 procession, amid the plaudits and acclamations 
 of the enthusiastic populace. 
 
 On the last morning of our stay we had a 
 most inspiriting little expedition to Pasumalai, 
 where there is a branch mission, and an excellent 
 institution for the training and education of na- 
 tive Christian lads and boys. It is under the 
 charge of ^Ir. and Mrs. Washburn and Mr. and 
 Mrs. Bumell. Mr. Washburn sent his 'Tocka- 
 way" for us, a pleasant sort of conveyance, 
 drawn by a tiny Pegu pony, the briskest lit- 
 tle creature you can imagine. The drive in 
 the fresh, cool morning air was most enjoya- 
 ble. It was a shady road, fringed with beau- 
 tiful trees, the neem, tamarind, banyan, pee- 
 pul, and plenty of palms; the paddy-fields, filled 
 with richest green, mingled with brown knolls, 
 isolated rocks, tanks, and clumps of wood, while 
 blue, mist-veiled hills bounded the distant view. 
 Presently a church tower rose above some trees 
 lying in the shelter of a bare, brown hill, and we 
 turned into a large compound filled with buildings 
 of every size and shape. We breakfasted with 
 
MADURA AXD ITS TEMPLES. I41 
 
 our friends in one of the pretty mission bunga- 
 lows, the very picture of New England neat- 
 ness. 
 
 After breakfast and prayers we went out to 
 see the institution. The number of buildings 
 shows its extensive character. It includes a High 
 School, an industrial department \\ here trades are 
 taught, a college, and also a theological depart- 
 ment for the training of aspirants to the ministry 
 as well as catcchists and evangelists. One hun- 
 dred and eight students were enrolled last year. 
 An interesting feature is that the pupils gather to 
 it from such distances. They come from towns 
 and villages and mission stations extending over 
 an area of six thousand miles, and half of these 
 are the sons of pastors and catechists ; others 
 are converts from their own conviction, who 
 have been cast adrift by their friends, and who 
 here find a home and sympathy and good train- 
 ing for future work. All pay fees except poor 
 boys, who get scholarships. We spent an hour 
 or two most happily among these nice lads. 
 My husband questioned and addressed all the 
 different departments, and found in the theologi- 
 cal classes many earnest, thoughtful young men. 
 This department exercises a most salutary influ- 
 ence on the schoolboys; they have meetings for 
 prayer, and go out on itinerating work when op- 
 
142 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 portunity offers. Seeing a row of small, cell-like 
 chambers, I asked their use. I found they were 
 prayer- rooms, where the pupils may retire for 
 private reading and prayer — a most needful ar- 
 rangement in India, where the houses are so open 
 that it is a hard matter to find a closet to which 
 you can retire and shut your door and "pray to 
 your Father who is in secret. ' ' 
 
 Thus the mission provides for the proper train- 
 ing and upbringing of the children of its con- 
 verts, the next generation of Christians; surely a 
 matter of the very greatest importance, to which 
 every mission should wisely attend. 
 
POUNDING RICK. 
 
I 
 
TINNEVELLY. PALAMCOTTA. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 TINNEVELLY. PALAMCOTTA. 
 
 We have now come to our last day of railway 
 travelling. We waved our adieux to our kind 
 entertainers and to beautiful IMadura and are now 
 journeying in a southeasterly direction towards 
 the great district of Tinnevelly. The country is 
 flat except for some dim, blue, hazy hill-ranges 
 in the far distance; and though the soil is rather 
 sandy it is generally well cultivated and covered 
 with crops; not in little patches like a patch-work 
 quilt, which is the aspect cultivation too often 
 presents in India, but in big fields worthy of the 
 name. The paddy-fields, where rice is grown, 
 abound the most, but bajri, jowari, millet, and 
 cotton in great quantities are also largely culti- 
 vated, coffee too wherever there are hills or high- 
 er ground. 
 
 The province is rich agriculturally and the 
 scenery rural in its character. It might remind 
 one of our own midland counties but for the great 
 groves of the palmyra palm, which now became 
 the chief feature in the landscape, and are cer- 
 tainly not Knglish. This marvellous tree, which 
 everywhere in South India is the real .staff of life 
 
144 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 to the people, covers many Imndred square miles; 
 and though its lofty top is not so beautiful as the 
 cocoa palm, with its crown of long, graceful 
 fronds, yet it is most picturesque and stately and 
 gives a thoroughly Oriental and varied aspect to 
 the scene. 
 
 The district is interesting too to the lover of 
 antiquarian research from the curious remains 
 which are to be found of prehistoric races in 
 weapons, implements, pottery, etc. It is also the 
 scene of the early Dravidian civilization. But I 
 confess that, to me, the chief interest lies in its 
 being the scene of some of the most successful 
 missionary enterprises the world has ever seen. 
 
 When it began to grow dark, though hardly 
 yet cool, after what had seemed an interminable 
 day, we changed into a short branch line for Tin- 
 nevelly. At the station we found a young native 
 Christian waiting with a servant and note from 
 Bishop Sargent, who was expecting us. There 
 was also the bishop's large, comfortable bandy, 
 something like a small omnibus, drawn by a pair 
 of huge white bullocks, into which we thank- 
 fully got. We left the native city behind, called 
 Tinnevelly, like the province of which it is the 
 capital, and turned towards the English canton- 
 ment Palamcotta, and were soon welcomed by the 
 venerable bislioi) and his most gentle wife. A 
 
TINNEVELLY. PALAMCOTTA. 
 
 long-cherished dream was realized: we were at 
 Palamcotta. 
 
 Bishop Sargent looks a much younger man 
 than I expected; his manner is youthful and vi- 
 vacious; his silvery white hair is brushed back 
 off his fine, lofty forehead; his face is clean shaved 
 and fresh, with a bright, pleasant expression; his 
 movements are rapid, and he looks still full of 
 vigor and force. One may well hope that God 
 will yet for a good many years spare this excel- 
 lent missionary bishop to carry on the glorious 
 work for Christ he has been conducting for now 
 nearly half a century. Mrs. Sargent is in ex- 
 ■ trcmely feeble health, but is literally from morn 
 till night engaged in mission work. It is her 
 meat and drink, her very life. I do not think I 
 ever saw a more touching picture than this in- 
 firm, venerable lady, sitting on her low chair in 
 her veranda, surrounded by a group of school- 
 girls or a company of poor, desolate-looking wid- 
 ows, in whom she always takes special interest, 
 while witli feeble but earnest voice she instructs 
 them or reads to them and tells them of the Sa- 
 viour, always finishing off with prayer. I never 
 go to her rooms any time of the day but I find 
 her thus engaged, and she always brightens up 
 with such a look of love and interest when her 
 "dear girls" come about her. 
 
 i)c<:D<ia lu .SuuIIkiiu luilU. XO 
 
146 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 The house is a comfortable large bungalow, 
 having no up stairs; the rooms are lofty and open- 
 ing off each other, with a wide pillared veranda 
 stretching along the front and a pretty bowery 
 porch. The furnishings and fittings, with all the 
 surroundings, are simplicity itself; there is every 
 needful comfort, but nothing more. It is a true 
 missionary home: the work is all in all; it is the 
 one idea of the place and people. This was the 
 house in which the excellent missionary Rhenius 
 lived, a well-known name among the many asso- 
 ciated with the history of Tinnevelly missions. 
 
 Soon after we arrived dinner was announced, 
 during which the bishop talked in the most en- 
 tertaining way, giving information and relating 
 incidents and anecdotes with immense animation. 
 We quite forgot our fatigue and weary journey. 
 Then, before we left the table, a troop of native 
 servants filed in, sat down cross-legged on the 
 floor, removed their turbans, and the bishop con- 
 ducted worship in Tamil. 
 
 The Tinnevelly district as a mission field is 
 divided between the Church Missionary Society 
 and the Society for the Propagation of the Gos- 
 pel, the greater portion belonging to the former. 
 Dr. Sargent is Suffragan Bishop for the Church 
 Missionary Society missions and Bishop Caldwell 
 the same in couucction with the other society. 
 
TINNEVELLY. PALAMCOTTA. 
 
 The venerable Schwartz — "the most memo- 
 rable name in the history of Protestant missions 
 in South India," as Bishop Caldwell says — was 
 connected with these missions as well as with those 
 of Tranquebar, Trichinopoly, and Tanjorc. He 
 visited Tinnevelly in 1771, also in 1782, and again 
 in 1785. He baptized the first convert, a Brah- 
 man woman, named Clarinda. On the occasion 
 of this baptism Schwartz wrote: " Oh, let us pray 
 for more faithful laborers. May God send such, 
 for Christ's sake. May he send such in troops!'''' 
 Surely this prayer has since been signally an- 
 swered. After a few years Clarinda and two 
 other Christians went the long journey to Tan- 
 jorc to see Schwartz and to beg that a missionary 
 might be settled in their district. The conse- 
 quence was that successive catechists were sent. 
 Sathianaden especially — a native missionary, ed- 
 ucated by himself — did admirable work and la- 
 bored long in the district; and under him the 
 native church made steady progress. Chiefly 
 from the efforts made by Clarinda the first Chris- 
 tian church was built; and so began the Protes- 
 tant mission churches of Tinnevelly, now so flour- 
 ishing. 
 
 The Christian community in connection with 
 Bishop Sargent at present numbers fifty-five thou- 
 sand. Under Bishop Caldwell, of the Society for 
 
148 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 the Propagation of the Gospel, there are forty-five 
 thousand more; so that the wonderful and delight- 
 ful fact remains to cheer the hearts of the friends 
 of missions that, out of a population of about two 
 millions, one hundred thousand are Protestant 
 Christians. The number has quadrupled itself 
 in twenty years. Let all who talk of missions as 
 a failure be told this weighty fact. 
 
 I can hardly attempt to speak of Roman-cath- 
 olic missions. It was on the Tinnevelly coast 
 that Francis Xavier, in 1542, after staying a short 
 time in Goa, commenced his labors. The Jesuits, 
 after being repressed as a society for some time, 
 again received charge of the Tinnevelly missions 
 in 1837. Their converts still increase in number, 
 although, as far as I can learn, not so rapidly as 
 those of the Protestants; and they are very dil- 
 igent with schools, orphanages, and such kinds 
 of mission work. 
 
 Most of the bishop's converts — quite two- 
 thirds, I think — are drawn from the Shanars, 
 who, as I said, are worshippers of devils. They 
 are a low caste, but claim to be the original in- 
 habitants of this part of the country, and have 
 never been much influenced by Hindoos or Hin- 
 dooism. The Shanars live chiefly by the palmyra 
 palm and are the palmyra climbers; that is, it is 
 they who mount these branchless trees, sometimes 
 
TINNEVELLY. PALAMCOTTA. 
 
 149 
 
 to the height of eighty or ninety feet, to remove 
 the sap or juice, which has been drawn off in a 
 small earthen pot at the top. This beverage is 
 much used by the people and is very refreshing, 
 though it becomes intoxicating if left to ferment. 
 It is also made into sugar and is used in other 
 ways. From many villages in the heart of these 
 palmyra groves, where formerly only the horrible 
 and degrading rites of devil-worship were prac- 
 tised, you now hear the voice of prayer ascending 
 to the God and Father of all. 
 
 The people usually have good faces, with 
 marked features, very dark skin, and bright, 
 good-tempered expressions. The men and wo- 
 men both wear the hair long and generally tied 
 in a knot behind. Among the women the bar- 
 baric and, I must say, very ugly decoration of 
 the torn ear is universal, which we saw, I think, 
 for the first time in Madura. The lobe is per- 
 forated, or rather torn, and the aperture hung 
 with rings of brass, lead, iron, or anything heavy, 
 so that it is weighed down and elongated until it 
 sometimes reaches half way to the shoulder. The 
 longer it is the more elegant and the more ad- 
 mired. The operation begins in childhood and 
 is really a cruel one and as unreasonable as the 
 bound foot among the women of China; but the 
 fashion is inexorable for all well-to-do women. 
 
150 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 It is considered quite a disgrace if the ear is torn 
 open in the process so that it cannot hold the 
 ornaments. The women are so proud of this dec- 
 oration that you see it constantly in the schools, 
 and often even among the Christian women; and 
 the missionaries find it difficult to induce the 
 mothers to leave it off in the upbringing of their 
 children. Mrs. Lewis, of the Zenana Mission 
 here, told me of a little blind girl in one of her 
 houses out of whose ear she had taken metal rings 
 which weighed two and a half ounces. 
 
 Life begins early in India and we were up 
 betimes, soon waiting in the veranda to go out 
 with the bishop. The heat is stifling, though it 
 is hardly yet six o'clock, and of the exhausting, 
 soaking, steamy sort. Not a breath stirs; every- 
 thing is still; but by-and-by the welcome breeze 
 will come and it will be cooler. The whole scene 
 is full of peace and beauty. The trees stand 
 about the house in leafy grandeur, throwing long 
 shadows on the grass. The branches are stirred 
 only by the brisk, funny little squirrels, who 
 bound about at their merry gambols, and the 
 long-tailed, white bulbul^ which I thought at first 
 must be a bird of paradise as the sun gleamed on 
 the long, beautiful feathers while it flitted among 
 the leaves. The ubiquitous crow too, of course, 
 is here, with his usual swagger and trim black 
 
TINNEVELLY. PALAMCOTTA. 
 
 coat, and breaks the sweet silence with his im- 
 pertinent caw. The sward is wonderfully green, 
 but will not remain long so now, as the fierce sun 
 grows daily more fierce and will scorch it up. 
 There are many substantial buildings about, 
 which I suppose are schools and boarding-houses; 
 and above all, a little to the right, also within the 
 compound, stands the handsome mission church, 
 gleaming white among the trees, with a graceful 
 spire towering over everything. As I write the 
 church-bell begins to chime forth its invitation to 
 morning prayer, and a troop of schoolgirls in 
 bright garments march past to attend the service. 
 A scene full of encouragement and holy joy to 
 the Christian heart, for it tells of work earnest 
 and fruitful, of hopes fulfilled and promises made 
 good ; and one cannot but look onward to the 
 glorious future — perhaps not so very far off — 
 when the nations shall be gathered in and the 
 whole earth filled with the glory of God. 
 
 The bishop came for us and we soon followed 
 to church. Mr. Jesudas (the name means Servant 
 of Jesus), the native pastor, was just beginning 
 the service. The bishop and Dr. Mitchell sat 
 within the communion rails, while the pews were 
 filled with the pupils from the Boys' Seminary, 
 the boarding-school girls, the teachers, and all 
 the people of the compound. It is a very large 
 
152 SCENES IX SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 church, holding more than a thousand people, 
 and at the Sabbath services it is always crowded. 
 The bishop has had the joy of seeing "the little 
 one" literally "become a thousand" in his time, 
 for when he came to Palamcotta there were only 
 about forty members in connection with this 
 church. The service was very simple and the 
 music excellent, though there was no instrument 
 of any kind used. The music was rendered en- 
 tirely by the young people of the schools. 
 
 But it is not only in the numbers of the con- 
 verts that the progress is remarkable. The na- 
 tive Christians are rapidly rising in many re- 
 spects. At the last examination of the Madras 
 University the Christians, in proportion to their 
 numbers, obtained a higher place even than the 
 Brahmans, who are confessedly an intellectual 
 race. The missions educate their people thor- 
 oughly, and so, though of the low Shanar caste 
 originally, they are fast outstripping the Hindoos 
 in position and standing. It is true of the whole 
 native Christian community that it is steadily 
 growing in influence and importance; and I am 
 told that this is specially the case among the 
 Protestants. ' ' The very look of the people is 
 changed," as Bishop Sargent truly remarked. 
 
 He spoke also rejoicingly of their increased 
 liberality. A few years ago they gave very little 
 
TINNEVELLY. PALAMCOTTA. 1 53 
 
 in support even of their own churches and schools. 
 They expected the mission to maintain the pas- 
 tors and schoohnasters, to build their churches, 
 and do everything for them. But now all this 
 has entirely changed. Last year the native Chris- 
 tians here connected with the Church IMissionary 
 Society contributed 32,000 rupees towards the 
 work of the mission ; and school-fees are now 
 universally paid, even in the boarding-schools. 
 
 The bishop also spoke most hopefully regard- 
 ing the experiment which is being made in this 
 district by the Church Missionary Society of with- 
 drawing European missionaries as much as pos- 
 sible and replacing them by native agents. The 
 European missionaries now in the field are em- 
 ployed as educationists, while the charge of con- 
 gregations, evangelistic work, and itineracy are 
 all carried on by ordained pastors and catechists. 
 Consequently the native ministry has been largely 
 increased. There are now sixty -four ordained 
 native clergymen, though when Dr. Sargent came 
 to Tinnevelly there was only one. There are 
 also a good many honorary catechists, men who 
 support themselves and do a great and good work, 
 preaching to the heathen as well as among the 
 churches. It was delightful to hear the bishop 
 talk. He told us also of the native councils 
 which have been successfully introduced. There 
 
154 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 is a Congregational Council, consisting of the 
 pastor and three or four persons chosen by the 
 congregation, a Financial Council, and, lastly, a 
 General Council, which meets once a year and 
 reviews the proceedings of the inferior courts. 
 
 Thus the native churches are moving steadily 
 onward and are being trained to self-government 
 and self-support, while the good bishop — al\va}s 
 the father of his people, the shepherd of the flock 
 — superintends and presides and watches over the 
 whole. 
 
 After service Mr. Jesudas, the pastor, and Mrs, 
 Lewis, from the Zenana Home, breakfasted with 
 us, and then the fifty pupils from Mrs. Sargent's 
 Girls' Boarding-school filed in to prayers and 
 stood in a ring round the drawing-room. The 
 bishop and my husband asked many questions of 
 the girls, especially in Scripture, which were an- 
 swered with readiness and understanding ; and 
 some questions were pretty hard. I never saw 
 brighter or more intelligent scholars anywhere. 
 They were of all sizes and ages, neatly dressed 
 alike in a pretty costume of buff and scarlet, with 
 pleasant, intelligent, and, in some cases, refined 
 faces. They are all the Christian daughters of 
 Christian parents. There are no orphanages here. 
 The system is to board the orphans in respectable 
 Christian households, where they are cared for 
 
TINNEVELLY. TALAMCOTTA. 155 
 
 and trained at a comparatively small outlay. But 
 all look on boarding-schools, where the children 
 can remain apart from heathen influences, as most 
 important. On this point Bishop Caldwell says 
 that "day-schools will not suffice; for one or two 
 generations at least we must rely on boarding- 
 schools. ' ' 
 
 What delighted me xery much was the sing- 
 ing, so softly sweet, so beautifully harmonized. 
 The voices were so much sweeter and better mod- 
 ulated than is usually the case in India that I 
 was surprised. Besides several of Sankey's best 
 hymns and some plaintive Tamil lyrics, they sang 
 some beautiful pieces from the "Messiah" with 
 feeling and taste. The truth is, the bishop him- 
 self takes much pains with the musical depart- 
 ment in all the schools, and this is the reason 
 there are so few harsh tones or jarring notes. 
 
 In the afternoon the lads came in from the 
 boys' school at the other side of the compound 
 and stood round the drawing-room as the girls 
 had done, and answered and sang just as well. 
 Some of them accompanied themselves with the 
 violin. The bishop has lately had fourteen vio- 
 lins sent out as gifts to the best musicians, which 
 are much appreciated and at play-hours are in 
 constant use. These lads are also the children of 
 Christian parents or Christians on their own pro- 
 
156 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 fession of faith. Many of them are supported by 
 friends in Australia. And so the important mat- 
 ter of the right upbringing of the youth — the 
 next generation of Christians, on whom so much 
 will depend — is thus carefully attended to in this 
 thoroughly equipped and excellent mission. 
 
 In the cool of the evening there was a pretty 
 little demonstration on the lawn. The bishop 
 had all the schools, girls and boys, marshalled 
 forth, bearing the flags and banners, with pretty 
 devices, which had assisted at the grand reception 
 this mission had given to the Prince of Wales on 
 his visit to India. The young folks marched 
 about, played games, sang songs, when the pre- 
 cious fiddles did ample duty, and altogether en- 
 joyed the fun and frolic. And I think we enjoyed 
 it quite as much as they did, for it was pleasant 
 to see that these school-children could play well 
 as well as work well, and that "Jack was not a 
 dull boy." It was delightful too to see how thor- 
 oughly the good bishop enters into their sports 
 and how much at home with him the young folks 
 are. He is full of mechanical ingenuity. We 
 found him superintending the construction of a 
 water-wheel in the compound to-day, on some 
 new principle of his own; and there is a gigantic 
 globe in the hall fashioned by his own hands. 
 He pointed out a fine spreading banyau-tree to us 
 
TINNEVELLY. PALAMCOTTA. 1 57 
 
 standing over the wall in what is now a paddy- 
 field but formerly was part of the compound. 
 The curious and beautiful tree, truly the king of 
 the Indian forest, had dropped some roots from 
 the upper branches, as its manner is, and flung 
 them over the wall, so that "daughters grew 
 about the mother- tree," and the daughter was 
 now bigger than the mother. The tree seemed 
 determined to take possession anew of the mission 
 grounds. "See," said the bishop, "it wont be 
 separated from us." "True," added my hus- 
 band. "And look, is not that increasing army 
 of strong young stems, all separately springing 
 from the glorious roof- tree, like the youthful 
 church of India, of which we have been speak- 
 ing? Above, in Christ our Head, they are one; 
 but they multiply and spread, each a new, strong 
 tree, taking possession of the land." The good 
 bishop's face quite kindled at the thought. 
 
 We have spent a day with our friends Mr. 
 and Mrs. Kember, of the Theological Training 
 College of the mission, and another with Mr. and 
 Mrs. Harcourt, who, since the departure of the 
 Rev. Mr. Lush, have had the charge and man- 
 agement of the well-known Sarah Tucker Insti- 
 tution. This is for the training of schoolmistress- 
 es and the higher classes of native Christian girls. 
 Nothing strikes one more in some of these delight- 
 
158 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 fill missions we have now the privilege of visiting 
 than the perfect organization there is: every de- 
 partment is made perfect in its way; nothing is 
 spared which can make the work more real and 
 thorouq-h and successful. 
 
 The compounds belonging to both the training 
 institutions are not far from the bishop's and are 
 very spacious. They are beautified too with 
 clumps and lines of banyan, mango, tamarind, 
 neem, and other fine trees; ample playgrounds 
 there are, and tennis-courts, hedgerows and good 
 sward, which is still wonderfully green. In Mr. 
 Kember's, besides the mission -house, there are 
 groups of low bungalows used as class-rooms, 
 mess-rooms, dormitories, and small rooms for 
 "studies," all of the same type — plain, substan- 
 tial, whitewashed buildings, airy and clean. This 
 institution is entirely for the training of workers: 
 pastors, evangelists, catechists, and schoolmasters. 
 All who enter understand that the}- are thencefor- 
 ward to be agents of the mission, to go where they 
 mav be sent. There were eieht men whom we 
 saw and had much talk with in Mr. Kcmber's 
 own theological class who are soon to be ordained 
 to the office of the ministry. 
 
 This solemn scr\-ice took place about a month 
 after our visit. It was held in the large mission 
 chuicli, which was filled to overllowing. "It was 
 
TINNEVELLY. PALAMCOTTA. 159 
 
 a most striking scene," a friend writes, "when 
 the eight candidates, the native clergy, forty- 
 seven in number, the European missionaries, and 
 the venerable bishop passed in procession up the 
 central aisle. After the sermon, and before the 
 imposition of hands, there was an impressive sea- 
 son of silent prayer; and when the candidates had 
 been set apart, the holy communion followed and 
 concluded the deeply interesting and impressive 
 service. ' ' 
 
 Another interesting half-hour we spent with . 
 Mr. David Solomon, the head master, in his class 
 of catechists, who told us a good deal about the 
 progress of the work among the heathen and their 
 attitude towards Christianity. They say the Sha- 
 nars are much stirred up at present in behalf of 
 their own system and frightened because of the 
 triumphs the gospel is making. "The gospel is 
 strong," they say, "and will conquer us if we do 
 not conquer it." So they are furbishing up every 
 old heathenish rite and are much on their guard. 
 They acknowledge, however, that they are not so 
 much in terror of the devils since Christianity 
 came. "The missionaries have frightened them," 
 they say, "and they have retreated to the forests 
 and jungles." Surely this vShanar worship is the 
 most degrading of all hcatlien systems, for the ob- 
 jects of their worship arc devils simply and liter- 
 
l6o SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 ally. It is a system of terrorism; they worsliip 
 these malevolent beings from dread; and it is 
 surely a great matter if this dread is lessened and 
 this sad and degrading bondage begins to be bro- 
 ken. 
 
 Fifteen catechists have gone forth from Mr. 
 Solomon's class this year and three more are 
 ready to go, and most of them are converted Sha- 
 nars. While we were at Mr. Kember's 50 new 
 pupils from a distant district arrived, who were 
 at once drafted into the departments suited to 
 them. 
 
 The Sarah Tucker Institution was built by 
 Bishop Sargent and the Rev. Mr. Spratt in 1862. 
 Miss Tucker never was in India herself, but her 
 brother was one of the secretaries of the Church 
 Missionary Society, I think, in Madras; and she 
 took so deep and active an interest in the women 
 of India that she worked constantly for them and, 
 though a great invalid, accomplished much in 
 raising funds and otherwise helping on the cause. 
 At her death this most useful and much-needed 
 institution was erected as a memorial of her. It 
 is rather an imposing structure, standing in the 
 same compound with Mr. Harcourt's house, with 
 massive pillars supporting the portico and a wide 
 veranda running along the entire front. It ac- 
 commodates 120 girls, who board and live in the 
 
TINNEVELLY. PALAMCOTTA. l6l 
 
 premises and are trained to teach in normal class- 
 es. They are then sent out to take charge of 
 branch affiliated schools, of which there are now 
 42, all taught by Christian teachers and attended 
 by many children of the highest caste. We were 
 greatly pleased with the way in which some of the 
 young women communicated instruction to their 
 pupils, in a bright, quick, animated way which at 
 once secured the attention of the little girls. We 
 were delighted here too with the singing, which 
 was led by Mrs. Harcourt, who manages this de- 
 partment entirely herself and with quite as pleas- 
 ing results as we had noticed among Mrs. Sar- 
 gent's flock. Indeed, Palamcotta quite carries the 
 palm in the matter of music over all the missions 
 we have seen. The girls do a great deal of lovely 
 embroidery, which Mrs. Harcourt is very glad to 
 take orders for, disposing of it for the benefit of 
 the institution. 
 
 A lady has lately been sent out by the Church 
 Missionary Zenana Society to assist Mrs. Har- 
 court. This is Miss Askwith, who is already a 
 favorite with the missionaries and pupils and 
 takes her own good share of the work, including 
 the acquisition of that hard Tamil tongue. 
 
 I must also refer to another part of the work 
 which had especial attraction for mc, the Zenana 
 mission, conducted by Mrs. Lewis aud Miss Mac- 
 
 tictiiiuii la Uoulliuru luitlft. J X 
 
l62 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 Donald. We lunched in the pleasant, bright Ze- 
 nana Home with these ladies and Miss Ling, who 
 has lately joined them. Mrs. Thomas is a name 
 well known in connection with woman's work in 
 South India. I was glad to find that she is still 
 working in a station about 30 miles off, which re- 
 joices in the name of Mengnanapurani. Almost 
 every Christian woman one meets with here 
 seems to have been under her tuition or influence 
 in some way or other, and she still has a boarding- 
 school in which there are 86 girls. 
 
 After lunch Mrs. Lewis and I started for the 
 native city — a hot, dusty, disagreeable drive of 
 three miles, in a peculiarly slow, shaky, bullock- 
 coach. The wilful beasts absolutely declined to 
 go out of a walk. Palamcotta is the place where 
 the English reside and the headquarters of the ad- 
 ministration, while Tinnevelly, situated on the 
 banks of the Tambrapani, is the chief native town 
 of the district. Bishop Caldwell says that until 
 the English rule began in 1802 Tinnevelly had 
 probably never had two successive years of peace. 
 But the days of misrule have happily passed away. 
 There are some handsome temples, with the usual 
 goparains; but there is nothing striking in the 
 town. 
 
 Zenana work has had the same happy cfTcct 
 among the people of the Madras Presidency as in 
 
TINNEVELLY. PALAMCOTTA. 
 
 163 
 
 other parts of India. Bishop Sargent thinks that 
 the visits of European ladies to their wives have 
 done more to secure a friendly feeling towards the 
 English among the men than anything else has 
 done. He says in a paper read before the Banga- 
 lore Missionary Conference of 1879: "No proc- 
 lamation from the highest in power could so im- 
 press the minds of high-caste native women in 
 regard to the kind feeling which English people 
 bear towards them as does the frequent contact 
 of these zenana ladies with them for the gospel's 
 sake. I am convinced that since this work has 
 commenced a more favorable opinion, within a 
 limited sphere, must now be entertained of us 
 than ever was before." 
 
 Mrs. Lewis took me to some of the houses in 
 which she teaches, and I noticed that the zenana 
 apartments were better furnished and the women 
 better off and brighter-looking than the women 
 of the same class are in Bengal and the North- 
 west. They are, of course, as ignorant and super- 
 stitious and as much in need of being taught ; 
 but those I saw have not an imprisoned look; 
 they can look out and go out, and their apart- 
 ments are not shut off from the rest of the house 
 and the. rest of the world as those where the poor 
 women of Calcutta live their joyless, hopeless, 
 objectless lives. 
 
164 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 The most interesting visit we paid was to a 
 gentle-looking, very poor woman who had once 
 sent urgently for Mrs. lyewis when her son was 
 dying. When her friend arrived she exclaimed, 
 "Do send me that Jesus. I want to see him. He 
 will cure my boy." When told she must pray to 
 him she said, "How shall I speak to him? I 
 don't know what words to use." Mrs. Lewis 
 taught her a short, simple prayer, which she re- 
 . peated. Her boy recovered. Now, though un- 
 baptized, she seems a sincere believer in that 
 Jesus she so earnestly asked to see. 
 
 During our drive, both going and coming, I 
 was amused with the number of men and boys 
 who pursued us, keeping alongside the bandy, en- 
 treating Mrs. Lewis for books. They all seemed 
 to know her and her large bag, in which the 
 precious books were carried. They were quite 
 willing to pay for them, and when the supply 
 was exhausted the disappointment was great, 
 while some of the lads stipulated that they should 
 be remembered first next time. 
 
 On our return, in the cool of the evening, I 
 found two huge, curious machines standing in 
 the compound, with some meek-looking bullocks 
 tied under the trees. These were the vehicles in 
 which we were to proceed on our travels — for we 
 had done with railways for the present — one for 
 
TINNEVELLY. PALAMCOTTA. 
 
 ourselves and one for our servant and baggage. 
 I surveyed them with considerable foreboding, 
 seeing we were to spend the night in them. They 
 were the common carts of the country, very nar- 
 row, very long, and very high, with arched roof 
 covered with matting, giving the interior a vault- 
 like look. There was a hard wooden bottom 
 and tremendously high wheels, rough and strong, 
 ^ly husband had taken the precaution of having 
 a good bed of clean straw laid in the bottom. 
 Joseph was deftly and silently stowing away bun- 
 dles and packages and portmanteaus in one of the 
 cave-like dens, while in the other were heaped 
 quilts and cushions and rugs and shawls, the bul- 
 locks looking on, evidently in a very dejected 
 frame of mind, knowing the work that was before 
 them, while their drivers were calmly asleep on 
 the sward beside them. Soon all was ready for 
 the start. We had already taken leave of the 
 bishop. A little later we dined with Mrs. Sargent, 
 then had prayer together and took leave of the 
 gentle lady, hoping to meet again shortly on the 
 Nielgherry Hills. When ever>-body else went to 
 bed we climbed into our lair, made ourselves as 
 snug as we could on the straw, and set out into 
 the darkness. 
 
l66 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 TRAVANCORE. NAGERCOIL. 
 
 Looking onward in a southwesterly direction 
 as you journey from Tinnevelly towards Cape 
 Comorin you see a range of purple mountains 
 stretching across the plain in broken and pictu- 
 resque and most striking masses. Beyond this 
 grand natural rampart lies the beautiful little 
 kingdom of Travancore — an independent state, 
 having a maharajah, or king, of its own — towards 
 which our faces were now turned. This country 
 is often called the garden of South India, which 
 it undoubtedly is, being full of loveliness in smi- 
 ling valleys and verdant rice-fields, waters, rocks, 
 trees, hills — often green to their summits — exten- 
 sive palmyra forests, and a marvellous wealth of 
 tropical vegetation, while its shores are washed 
 by the great blue Southern Sea. 
 
 It has other attractions, however, which tran- 
 scend even these, for Travancore is becoming also 
 a garden of the Lord. Once, with all its natural 
 beauty, it was a wilderness of moral and spiritual 
 darkness too deep to be told: Brahmanism, de- 
 mon-worship, caste, slavery, and every sort of 
 
TRAVANCORE. NAGERCOIL. 
 
 167 
 
 oppression held undisputed sway. But now these 
 things are changing and the wilderness begins to 
 "blossom like the rose." There are green spots 
 now. There are the homes of the missionaries 
 and the Christian churches, which, through their 
 labors, blessed by God's Spirit, are filled with 
 men and women gathered out of this heathenism. 
 There are places where for long ages devil-wor- 
 shippers practised their abominable and degra- 
 ding rites that are now Christian hamlets, whence 
 praise and prayer ascend from loving hearts to 
 the loving Father in heaven and where the tem- 
 ples and altar-stones for this wretched worship 
 have been changed for churches and schools and 
 Christian homes. Superstition, of course, still 
 reigns over much of the region, but a great deal 
 has been done. The gospel has taken root mar- 
 vellously, bringing forth golden fruit for Christ's 
 kingdom; and the story of its introduction among 
 the Shanars of Tinnevelly and Travancore can- 
 not be told too often if only it stimulates the faith 
 and zeal of God's people to go on to renewed 
 thanksgiving and fresh effort. 
 
 We had a toiling night of it after we got clear 
 of the station roads and cantonment civilization. 
 We lay on our straw bed beneath the low-archcd 
 roof of our novel conveyance — I coiled up at the 
 head and my husband, a sort of guard, across the 
 
l68 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 foot. It was fortunate he had got us so well 
 padded in, for the roads — so called by courtes)' — 
 were only tracks in the deep sand and full of for- 
 midable ruts and holes. One moment a wheel 
 would dash down into a deep rut, while the other 
 had mounted over a piece of rock; and many a 
 time we thought it was all over with us; but we 
 struggled and scrambled on, the meek, patient 
 bullocks, quite accustomed to the yoke and to the 
 road, creeping cautiously along, while the drivers 
 sat on their benches placidly asleep. I believe 
 they slept all night, except when, after a worse 
 lurch than usual, the Sahib would pour forth a 
 volley of shouts upon them. To talk was of no 
 use, as they did not understand a word we said. 
 They woiild then wake up, use the stick zeal- 
 ously on the unoffending beasts, jerk the tails, ad- 
 monish them in Tamil, and then go off to sleep 
 again. 
 
 At dawn we found ourselves in a picturesque 
 region of rocks and hills, intermingled with the 
 rich green of the rice -fields and always great 
 clumps of the stately palmyra palm. The moun- 
 tains lay near us now in long, undulating lines 
 and ridges or lofty summits, with fantastic, jagged 
 peaks, unspeakably grand. Soon the valley nar- 
 rowed and our route lay between ridges of rock 
 and low hills with an occasional small temple of 
 
TRAVANCORE. NAGERCOIL. 1 69 
 
 the rudest description, also rest-houses and the 
 curious white altar-stones used in demon-worship 
 standing here and there along the road beneath 
 the trees. We encountered many wayfarers, who 
 stood and stared at us in wonderment as we pass- 
 ed. They were most strange, wild-looking peo- 
 ple, with shaggy, unkempt, turbanless heads, 
 lines and patches of white paint all over their 
 breasts, and no clothing to speak of — only a dirty 
 rag across their loins. 
 
 A group gathered round us, eying all we did 
 with stupid but good-humored astonishment when 
 we scrambled down from the cart and bivouacked 
 under the thick shade of a grand banyan-tree 
 while Joseph made us a cup of tea. It was de- 
 licious to rest a while and breathe the sweet, cool 
 air and let our poor bones get into their usiial 
 places after the process of dislocation they had 
 been subjected to all night. Meanwhile a few 
 sticks were gathered, a bottle of water was emp- 
 tied into a tiny kettle, which was set on to boil, 
 and "the cup which cheers" seemed more fra- 
 grant and refreshing than ever it had done before. 
 The poor gaping people looked on awestruck. 
 Their speech was utterly incomprehensible, and 
 we were very sorry we could only smile our good- 
 will, with accompanying signs, for a talk with 
 them, as we should have had in Western or 
 
170 SCENES IX SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 Northern India, was, alas ! impossible in this the 
 extreme South. 
 
 The scenerj- became more and more beautiful 
 as we neared the goal — Xagercoil. The giant 
 ghats rose before us like a wall as if to bar further 
 progress; but at length, rounding a spur, we came 
 to a gap or pass, a small opening in the great ram- 
 part so remarkable that it might have led to a lair 
 of Rob Roy's, and by this natural portal we en- 
 tered the kino-dom of Travancore. After we had 
 passed through this we soon came on the signs of 
 a denser population. There were a few scattered 
 houses. Then came more houses and streets; we 
 found we had entered the town, and soon the glad 
 moment arrived when our queer cavalcade drew 
 tip before the door of our friend the Rev. Mr. Du- 
 thie's mission-house. He and his wife and daugh- 
 ter and son all ran out to bid us welcome and help, 
 us to alight, "a heap of dust and broken bones," 
 as my husband said. 
 
 We were meeting now for the first time in our 
 lives; but Mr. Duthie had frequently written to 
 us during our progress hither, and no one has 
 been more cordial or helpful to us in forming our 
 plans. Indeed, the Nagercoil mission-house has 
 been a sort of goal all through. And here we are, 
 by the good hand of our God upon us. 
 
 We quite appreciated the cool, big, shady rooms 
 
TRAVANCORE. NAGERCOIL. 17I 
 
 into which they took us and all the comforts so 
 amply and carefully provided. The big baths 
 seemed specially welcome; and now after the bath 
 and change of clothes and a good rest and good 
 breakfast w'e feel ready for what may come. 
 
 Breakfast in the INIofussil and country places 
 in India means a midday meal, as on the Conti- 
 nent. After this was over, the Rev. Mr. Lee, 
 from the mission-house in a compound across the 
 road opposite, came and joined our party. We 
 all gathered in the wide, shady veranda a few 
 steps higher than the garden and filled with low 
 chairs, when a remarkable and most intelligent 
 man called — not a Christian — whose story and 
 conversation seem to have introduced us at once 
 into the condition of things among the people 
 here. 
 
 Travancore has been noted for its intense 
 Brahmanism, and although it is awakening, like 
 the rest of the land, to progress and reform, yet 
 the enlightening comes slowly. This man is a 
 Brahman, and was the first individual who was 
 so enlightened and so brave as to propose or ven- 
 ture to introduce the dreadful innovation of wid- 
 ow re-marriage. He had a little daughter who 
 had been married as a child. The boy husband 
 died, and the father knew well what the little 
 girl's fate would be as a life-long widow — a wid- 
 
172 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 o\v, though she had never been a wife. And 
 widows are as hardly treated here as elsewhere in 
 India. So he took the daring resolve to have her 
 re-married. A tremendous commotion was the 
 result; his house was pulled down about his ears, 
 he was expelled from the Brahman quarter, put 
 out of caste, and persecuted in every possible way. 
 In short, there was a great iiproar. But he has 
 braved and outlived it all. He has built a new 
 house and also a new well, for he could not be 
 suffered even to draw water and so pollute the 
 wells sacred to the outraged Brahmans. This 
 was a few years ago, and he has held steadily and 
 manfully on his way, doing much to promote en- 
 lightenment, encouraging others to go and do 
 likewise, and now seems a most contented and 
 cheerful martyr to reform. The storm has done 
 much good, and now innovations do not startle so 
 much. Only a few years ago the missionaries 
 would have been mobbed and insulted had they 
 ventured to pass down the Brahman street; now 
 any European may do so without fear; and the 
 feeling of the people to the missionaries has not 
 only become less hostile, but is generally full of 
 friendliness. One or two other cases of widow re- 
 marriage have occurred, and the spirit of progress 
 is gaining sway even in caste-ridden Travan- 
 core. 
 
TRAVAXCORE. XAGERCOIL. 
 
 As soon as it became cool enough Mr. Duthie 
 took us out to see something of the place. It was 
 a most lovely evening, cool and invigorating, and 
 we had some exquisite mountain views as the 
 sun went down behind the glorious masses in an 
 ocean of brilliant yet delicate carmine. 
 
 Nagercoil is now a large town, nestling cosily 
 at the foot of the grand mountain ranges which 
 encompass it on three sides. The countr\- opens 
 out on the fourth and stretches down in beautiful 
 undulations, crowned with rich tropical vegetation 
 and ten thousands of palmyra palms, away to the 
 Southern Sea.* Beautiful for situation indeed is 
 this famed mission station, hidden away in its 
 green valley and closed in from the outer world 
 by its own glorious natural defences. Some of 
 the loftier peaks are 5,000 or 6,000 feet high, and 
 the mission has a sanitarium not far away, up 
 somewhere among these cloud-capped summits, 
 where the coffee estates abound. 
 
 * Of this flourishing Christian settlement Mr. Mateer says, 
 " Nagercoil was not long since the merest hamlet, connected 
 with the Snake Temple which gives its name to the place; 
 but having been adopted as the headquarters of the London 
 Mission in these parts, it is now a clean, well-built, and in- 
 creasing native town. By their intelligence and industry in 
 various ways, and especially of late years in the coffee-plant- 
 ing enterprise, the native Christians are becoming wealthy 
 and a wonderful change has taken place." " Native Life in 
 Travancore," p. 18. 
 
1/4 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 As we came home Mr. Dutliie took us through 
 the Christian portion of the native town, where we 
 were amused to find the streets named after the 
 missionaries. Thus we drove down Duthie Street, 
 Mault Street, ]\Iead Street, and so on. We passed 
 one or two particularly tidy little houses standing 
 in compounds, one of which had two stories. The 
 owner of this is a well-to-do coffee-planter, who 
 gives most liberally to the mission. That a man 
 originally low caste, and not increased in favor by 
 becoming a Christian, should have the audacity 
 to build an imposing two-storied dwelling, filled 
 the Brahmans with indignation. They threat- 
 ened to pull it down or burn it. But they have 
 not yet executed their threat. Happily it still 
 stands there; and its owner has returned good for 
 evil by constructing a tank for public use. 
 
 As we got nearer home we passed the fine 
 large mission-church, the largest in South India; 
 also the girls' village school, a pretty building 
 erected only two )-ears ago by the Christian peo- 
 ple all by themselves. The printing-press, the 
 seminary or English school, and other mission 
 buildings we also passed. 
 
 This mission, having its chief stations at Na- 
 gercoil, Neyoor, Pareychaley, and Trevandrum, 
 besides many smaller branches, belongs to the 
 London Missionary Society. This noble society, 
 
TRAVANCORE. NAGERCOIL. 
 
 since its formation in 1795, has planted missions 
 in many parts of the world, but I fancy none of 
 them have had their efforts more acknowledged of 
 God and more crowned with success than this one 
 in Travancore. It has worked for nearly the 
 whole of this century. 
 
 It is generally believed that the eccentric but 
 able Ringeltaube, a German, began Christian work 
 in this province; but Mr. Duthie tells us of a na- 
 tive convert named Vethananikam who was really 
 the first to preach the gospel here. This man's 
 story is verj' interesting. He was an earnest, 
 thoughtful man, his soul seeking something he 
 could not find in any heathen system. He went 
 on a long pilgrimage to some peculiarly sacred 
 shrine he had heard of, hoping to find the rest 
 and peace his spirit craved. But the unrest only 
 grew and the questionings became more urgent. 
 He was being led of the Spirit of God b)- a way 
 he knew not. Passing through Tanjore he heard 
 of the white men, the missionaries, and of the 
 new doctrines they were setting forth. Curios- 
 ity and a certain hope led him to the church, 
 Schwartz's church, where Mr. John Kohlhoff was 
 preaching. Now, for the first time, he heard the 
 name of Christ, and Kohlhoff, having noticed 
 him, invited him to come and see liim. From 
 this time he had constant intercourse with the 
 
176 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 missionaries, was instructed in the way of salva- 
 tion, found all he needed in this heaven-sent faith, 
 and eventually become a true and earnest believ- 
 er. 
 
 Like Paul, he straightway began to preach. 
 He could not keep these glad tidings to himself; 
 he longed to make them known to his people, and 
 begged leave to return to his home amid the palm- 
 groves of the far South. After a weary journey 
 he got back to his village, called Myladi — a place 
 ever to be had in remembrance in the history 
 of this mission. Here he began his work and 
 preached the truth faithfully and steadil}'. A 
 small Christian community gathered round him 
 in time; but persecution followed, and soon be- 
 came so fierce and determined that he feared the 
 feeble light he had been honored to kindle might 
 be utterly quenched. So once more he set out for 
 distant Tanjore to beg his old friends there to 
 send one of their number — a European mission- 
 ary — to minister to his little flock in the wilder- 
 ness. His request was granted; and then it was 
 that Ringeltaube, who had just arrived from 
 Prussia to join the mission band, was set apart for 
 this service. In due time he came. Some of the 
 Christians, including Vethananikam, went to meet 
 him as far as the pass I have spoken of, and wel- 
 comed him to their country. He settled in My- 
 
TRAVANCORE. NAGERCOIL. 1 77 
 
 ladi, where the first Christian church was built 
 in 1806; and thus the gospel fouud entrance into 
 this beautiful but darkly idolatrous land. Rin- 
 geltaube was eccentric, as I have said, but he was 
 peculiarly devoted; and, judging from some quaint 
 letters from him to his sister, he must have been 
 a sensitive, interesting, and most original person. 
 I cannot resist quoting one or two passages. The 
 first is an answer to one which took thirteen 
 months to reach him. 
 
 "My Dear Hanna: The letter you wrote on 
 the 13th May, 1809, was not at all expected by 
 me. In the very night you wrote it I lay down 
 sick in a traveller's bungalow, exposed to the 
 wind and rain. I had just bought the land for 
 the first chapel in Travaucore. When I really 
 got possession of the letter, 19th June, 1810 (thir- 
 teen months after its date), I sat in the door of the 
 chapel now finished, and six other chapels were 
 almost built. The news of the life and health of 
 our parents was unexpected by me: I thought 
 that, after much suffering, they would have fallen 
 asleep. As to your little Frederick, I offered him 
 up immediately to the Giver of every good and 
 perfect gift on the altar of the new chapel in My- 
 ladi. Your news of our brothers and their fami- 
 lies was of a most gladdening kind. And surely, 
 in the troubles which I have through bad Chris- 
 
 BcrnM In Knulhein rnilla. ]2 
 
178 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 tians, I wanted a little comfort for my soul. Now 
 the Lord be praised !' ' 
 
 The following gives a most touching picture 
 of the every-day life of the solitary man: 
 
 " My Dear: Come, we will talk a little with 
 one another. Do you see the house thatched with 
 straw and provided with ten pillars at the foot of 
 the rock near the three large tamarind - trees ? 
 This is your poor William's dwelling-place. Come 
 in. Though it rains heavily we shall find per- 
 haps a dry place. ho ! three little dogs greet 
 you, wagging their tails ! But no ! their tails 
 have been cut off. The black one with the white 
 throat is Mr. Port, the other one with the yellow 
 feet is Mrs. Fidelis, and the small yellow one with 
 white feet is Miss Flora. Flora is a very jolly 
 dog; we bark often for a quarter of an hour one 
 towards the other, and each of us knows what the 
 other intends to say. 
 
 " Well, what is to be seen here? Four broken 
 chairs, two old couches made of wood and reed, a 
 rope tied from one wall to the other, on which a 
 coat, a gown, and some boots are hanging. Well, 
 and what more ? Shelves with books, two tables, 
 one lamp. 
 
 " Behold, there is my old huge Maratha horse, 
 red, with a white spot, and four white feet. He 
 is better off than his master, for he is sleek and 
 
TRAVANCORE. NAGERCOIL. 
 
 179 
 
 fat. 'What have you in your box?' you ask. 
 Clothes, books, paper. ' Why do all things look 
 so dirty and in such disorder ?' Because I am a 
 distressed, poor bachelor. * Why do you not mar- 
 ry, my dear brother?' Point d'' argent, my dear 
 sister. . . . 
 
 " Well, good night, my beloved one ! ray lamp 
 burns dimly. It is eleven o'clock; with you it is 
 about eight. You are sitting at the table with 
 
 little Fritz, Mr. R , or with our parents. How 
 
 happy you are ! You are their joy and comfort in 
 their old age. Kiss and embrace them and my 
 brothers heartily. ... I am now over forty years 
 old and they call me the old Ringeltaube. Pray 
 for your poor WILLIAM." 
 
 "My life is almost without any joy, for the 
 soul finds nothing new, and therefore nothing 
 that gladdens it. The artificial help of books, 
 society, etc., is lacking here entirely. However, 
 I am not cast down. We must go through this 
 life full of tribulations in one way or another. It 
 is easy for few only, and I am persuaded I get 
 through it easier than many. I often think of 
 what was written over the door by that shoemaker 
 in Oels, ' May things not become worse !' In the 
 world all is now in confusion, and also here many 
 a change may come. How happy we are if we 
 feel that we are in God's good hand ! That I feci 
 
l8o SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 even uow. The peace of God which passeth all 
 understanding, may it be ours ! However, that 
 is not always so, but if it is often so, it is enough 
 to keep our hearts and minds in Christ Jesus till 
 the life eternal I" 
 
 No wonder that Ringeltaube's health gave 
 way. " It is not good that man should be alone. ' ' 
 So pronounced He who made man. But this 
 poor missionary was utterly alone, as far as his 
 own people went. He seldom saw a European 
 and his means were not sufficient to let him 
 marry. 
 
 Ringeltaube was obliged at last to leave the 
 country. This was in 1816. But before then he 
 had baptized i, 100 persons. Many are the stories 
 told about him by the native Christians, with 
 whom his work and life and eccentric ways are 
 still a cherished memory. There is a church still 
 at Myladi — but not the original one, though built 
 on the site of the old — and a good congregation, 
 imder the ministry of a native pastor. The mis- 
 sion now numbers its converts at about 50,000, 
 with 250 places of worship. 
 
 Before he quitted his field Ringeltaube writes, 
 " I have brought the mission to a good standing 
 by the assistance of our merciful God, and have 
 given it over into the hands of an honest English- 
 man." 
 
TRAVANCORE. NAGERCOIL. l8l 
 
 This "honest Englishman " was the late well- 
 known Gen. Munro, of Ross-shire, then Col. 
 Munro, resident at the court of his highness the 
 Maharajah of Travancore. He was and is still 
 known as "the good resident," and his name 
 will long be remembered all over the south of 
 India. He accepted entire charge of the infant 
 mission, enlarged and strengthened it, founded 
 schools, and endowed them with grants of land. 
 Mr. Duthie and Mr. Lee have shown us the rice- 
 fields which are still the property of the mission — 
 the same that were given by the good resident. 
 This ver>' house was given by him, one in which 
 he and Mrs. Munro once lived. During all his 
 long administration he did everything to foster 
 the mission; and not only so, but promoted what- 
 ever was for the moral and physical well-being of 
 the people over the whole kingdom. Happily 
 this is by no means a solitary instance of mission- 
 ary and philanthropic undertakings being sup- 
 ported and personally assisted by the servants of 
 Government— just such noble, disinterested Chris- 
 tian men as Col. Munro. 
 
 One morning, while breakfasting with Mr. 
 Lee, he showed us a box of curious old parch- 
 ments left by the resident, the title-deeds of the 
 land and other property, written in Tamil on long 
 slips of the palmyra leaf, all tied into little bun- 
 
lS2 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 dies. This wonderful palm-leaf still provides the 
 stationers' chiefly used in the country. 
 
 We also saw the veritable cot or couch used 
 by Ringeltaube, a most primitive article, suggest- 
 ive rather of penance than rest. I should like to 
 see it in some missionar}- museum. Mr. Lee kind- 
 ly took us all over his premises the same morn- 
 ing, including the printing-press and his charm- 
 ing girls' boarding-school. His wife is an invalid 
 and at home, but he bravely manages the fifty-six 
 children himself, with the aid of his good Chris- 
 tian matron and Christian teachers. The copy- 
 books are all made of the palmyra leaf, neatly cut 
 into narrow long slips. The children presented 
 me with some manuscripts of this sort, along with 
 the neat little case of implements used in cutting 
 up the leaf and performing the penmanship. One 
 of the teachers had printed a te.xt on a large card 
 in English and hung it on the wall of the large 
 schoolroom as a welcome to us. It was the first 
 thing we saw as we entered, and the words were, 
 " The Lord shall preserve thy going out and thy 
 coming in, from this time forth and even for ever- 
 more." Later on, as we were taking leave, after 
 we had heard the classes read and sing, etc., one 
 of the elder girls, with a ven.- sweet face, came up 
 to me and said in pretty English, "Ma'am, we 
 have learned a text for you;" whereupon the first 
 
TRAVANCORE. NAGERCOIL. 
 
 class repeated the beautiful words, "The Lord 
 bless thee and keep thee; the Lord make his face 
 shine upon thee and be gracious to thee ; the Lord 
 lift up his countenance upon thee and give thee 
 peace!" I think even the men had their eyes wet 
 before the children had finished repeating it, and 
 it was entirely their own thought. Mr. Lee was 
 as much surprised as we were. The schools are 
 very similar to others already described, and are 
 all admirable after their kind — day and boarding 
 schools — Tamil and English schools. Of course 
 the most important are the large seminary and 
 preparatorj' school, for the education and training 
 of young men who are afterwards to be employed 
 in the work of the mission, such as teachers, evan- 
 gelists, pastors, catechists, and so on. These im- 
 portant institutions are entirely conducted by Mr. 
 Duthie and his son, and represent a great deal of 
 hard, thorough work. The buildings stand close 
 to the mission-house, and it is pleasant to see the 
 lads about through the compound at all hours. 
 They seem specially pleased to help Mrs. and 
 Miss Duthie in their gardening, and water the 
 plants of an evening. There are 207 students 
 altogether, 83 of whom are boarders who live on 
 the premises. They are pleasant, intelligent lads. 
 Whenever an agent is wanted at any of the sta- 
 tions, the lack is supplied from the seminary, 
 
184 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 which is thus the Christian training college for 
 the whole mission. 
 
 There is a first-rate Government college at 
 Trevandrum, presided over by Prof. Ross, and 
 called the Maharajah's College, which provides 
 both English and vernacular education for all 
 classes and castes. Christian and non-Christian ; 
 but this one in Nagercoil is distinctively Chris- 
 tian and is supported by the mission. One thing 
 most creditable to it is that last year the first prize 
 in the Cator examination in Madras for Scripture 
 knowledge was carried off by one of its students. 
 The seminary and the Maharajah's College in 
 Trevandrum stand together in the forefront of all 
 educational work in Travancore. Is not the tol- 
 erance extended to Christian missions by this en- 
 lightened native State remarkable? 
 
 One feature in the day-schools here is quite 
 new: they cost the mission nothing! The teach- 
 ers are all paid by the native Christian commu- 
 nity, being simply salaried, as the pastors are sal- 
 aried ; but Mr. Duthie superintends the boys' 
 schools, while Mrs. Duthie and her daughter do 
 the same for the girls'. No part of the mission 
 work is telling more on the people as a whole. 
 
woman's work. SUNDAY AT NAGERCOIL. 185 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 woman's work. SUNDAY AT NAGERCOIL. 
 
 One of the specialties in Nagercoil is the lace 
 industry, which is carried on by the Christian 
 women, superintended by the missionaries' wives. 
 It was introduced some fifty years ago by the late 
 Mrs. Mault, and has done wonders for the people. 
 Hundreds of poor Christians gain a living by it. 
 The ladies take the orders and also all the trouble 
 of the sale. After the women are paid for their 
 work the profits go to the support of Bible-wo- 
 men's work. The success of this industry is most 
 cheering; and now it has two offshoots, one under 
 Mrs. Caldwell, who is the daughter of Mrs. Mault, 
 and one at Benares. But it originated in Nager- 
 coil, and the lace here manufactured has <rained 
 medals at three national exhibitions. 
 
 Mrs. Duthie very kindly had an assemblage of 
 lace-makers in the veranda, that I might see them 
 at work. About forty women came — tidy, re- 
 spectable, intelligent matrons — who sat in a row 
 round the veranda on the floor, with their lace- 
 pillows on their laps ; and the clever, handy way 
 in which they manipulated tlic fine thread and 
 
lS6 SCENES IX SOUTHERX IXDIA. 
 
 pins and produced the delicate fabric was most 
 curious and interesting to see, and the workers 
 seemed equally pleased to show their work. 
 
 I saw some of the women being paid to-day, 
 and the money in which this was done amused 
 me much. The coin is the smallest, I suppose, 
 in circulation anywhere. It is called chiukrum^ 
 and is a wee, fat, round bit of silver the size of a 
 split pea and covered with characters. The way 
 in which it is counted is also droll. There are 
 neat little boards of different sizes filled with holes, 
 into which a handful of the coins is thrown, each 
 coin fitting its hole. One size holds one rupee's 
 worth, another five rupees, another ten, another 
 twenty, and so on. There are larger coins in cir- 
 culation, but the chtickrum is most in use. I have 
 had a pretty necklace and bracelet given me 
 made of these little coins, which are quite curi- 
 osities. 
 
 Yesterday afternoon Miss Duthie drove me in 
 the little pony-carriage to see some of the zenana 
 and Bible-women's work, which has happily made 
 a good beginning here and is specially interest- 
 ing in a caste-ridden place like this. I have said 
 how thoroughly Travancore has hitherto been 
 under the thrall of the Brahmans — given over to 
 superstition and slavery- and all cruelty and bond- 
 age untold. .\ ver)- few years ago these Bible- 
 
woman's work. SUNDAY AT NAGERCOIL. 1S7 
 
 women would not have dared to attempt the work 
 the)- now are able to do. They would not only 
 have been driven from the doors into which they 
 now find entrance, but they could not have ven- 
 tured to tread the street, far less enter the house 
 of a good-caste family. They work chiefly among 
 the Sudra and Vellala castes. As yet there is not 
 a single Brahman woman under instruction of any 
 sort in Nagercoil. One seems to g^o back to old 
 experiences and times now happily gone by in 
 other parts of India. One thing ought to be borne 
 in mind, however: namely, the success of the gos- 
 pel among the low castes; and this ven.- success is 
 quite enough to account for the smaller progress 
 among the higher. One may smile or be indig- 
 nant at the absurdities of caste, but it is the 
 strength of this old-world religion, which is so 
 interwoven with the history and afiections and 
 the very life of the people. It is the cement 
 which binds it all together and makes it like a 
 rock of adamant, which, alas, it still is, though 
 in some places the foundations begin to shake. I 
 believe the Brahmans are becoming afraid as well 
 as jealous of the standing and influence the Chris- 
 tian Shanars are attaining, and are bestirring 
 themselves in the matter of English education. 
 God has chosen the weak and despised things of 
 the world to confound those that call themselves 
 
lS8 vSCENKS IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 mighty in this stronghold of Brahmanism and su- 
 perstition. 
 
 The missionaries have had some ctirious bat- 
 tles to fight. One was to secure to the women 
 the privilege of clothing themselves with decency. 
 The female portion of the Shanar community were 
 most immodest in their attire, wearing nothing 
 on their persons above the waist. The mission 
 ladies were naturally determined to alter this 
 practice — at least among the Christians — and in- 
 troduced a completer style of dress, including a 
 jacket, in addition to the cloth which encircles 
 the loins. The higher castes were furious at 
 the presumption of "the low-born." There was 
 the usual disturbance; and whenever the poor 
 women appeared outside their doors they were 
 attacked and the offending garments literally torn 
 off their backs ! But the magistrates interposed, 
 and now the poor things may go forth unmolested 
 though decently attired. Miss Duthie took me 
 to one house where we were received by a bright, 
 brisk little woman in a sort of inclosed court, 
 open to the sky. She would not admit us quite 
 into the house; and I was amused to notice that 
 she took care to sit to windward of us, so that all 
 the pollution we brought might be blown straight 
 away without touching her. Nothing must come 
 "betwixt the wind and her nobility," as Harry 
 
woman's work. SUNDAY AT NAGERCOIL- 1 89 
 
 Hotspur puts it. Yet she was by no means a 
 Brahman. This puts me in mind of a visit I 
 once paid in Calcutta at a time when the visits 
 of European ladies were not so universally wel- 
 come in Bengali homes as they are happily now: 
 I was allowed to stand for a few minutes in the 
 veranda, but was evidently unwelcome; and as 
 I moved away a metrani^ or sweeper — a menial 
 of the very lowest description — was ordered to 
 cleanse the place where I had stood. 
 
 Our small hostess was gorgeously attired, and 
 was very much in the fashion as to the torn ear. 
 The lobe was weighted with rows of thick, mas- 
 sive gold and silver rings, which dragged it down 
 in a hideous manner, almost to the shoulder. 
 She had plenty of gold and silver on her person 
 otherwise, which surprised me, as I knew that 
 she was a widow, and Hindoo law forbids widows 
 to wear ornaments. A remark I made on the 
 subject afterwards brought out some curious facts 
 as to the customs and laws in this strange country, 
 especially in the laws of succession to property. 
 It seems she was the sister of a very rich man, 
 who has lately died, and all his wealth has come 
 to her son, as heir of the inheritance, not to his 
 own ! This is perplexing and hardly to be be- 
 lieved; but it is true. You may be as rich a man 
 as you please and as great; but when you die, 
 
190 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 your sister's children, not your own, will inherit 
 your property, your money, your titles, your posi- 
 tion, your very name; all must descend in the 
 female line ! In this sense one has to fight here, 
 not for woman's rights, but for man's. I am 
 afraid this state of things points to a very loose 
 morality as existing somewhere. However, I am 
 not going to enter into the mysteries of caste and 
 custom and the strange code they necessitate; it 
 is much too intricate a subject. But I am thank- 
 ful to say the missionaries utterly discountenance 
 the observance of caste in any form. 
 
 We have had an intensely interesting day. 
 Some time ago Mr. Duthie wrote, "Be sure you 
 keep a Sunday for us," which we were careful 
 to do. At seven o'clock the great bell gave forth 
 its invitation to service, and we all went through 
 the cool morning air to the church, which stands 
 close by in a compound of its own. When wc en- 
 tered I was struck with astonishment. Here was 
 an immense building, certainly the biggest mission- 
 church we have ever seen, filled throughout with 
 as decent and respectable a congregation as you 
 could see at home. The pulpit stood a good way 
 down from the end of the church with pews ar- 
 ranged in front of it on each side of a wide 
 passage to the door. These were crowded — the 
 women on the right and the men on the left, 
 
woman's work. SUNDAY AT NAGERCOIL. 191 
 
 while on the floor, round the pulpit, up to the 
 end, and round every pillar the little ones of the 
 flock were set as thickly as they could be put. 
 The girls from the boarding-school sat together, 
 and the lads from the seminary in another group; 
 but most of the children had come with their pa- 
 rents from their own village houses, and were 
 grouped in this fashion on the floor that they might 
 take up less of the precious space. It was a won- 
 derfully interesting sight, they were so tidy and 
 neat in their Sunday best; and the little creatures 
 behaved with a quietness and propriety which 
 would have been impossible to English children 
 of the same age. The church is a plain, white- 
 washed building, with an arched roof supported 
 by double rows of fine large pillars, and having a 
 great number of doors and windows, all thrown 
 wide open to admit the fresh air of the morning, 
 while the beautiful trees which fill the compound 
 and surround the church gave delicious shade 
 from the fast-mounting sun. Some marble tablets 
 are set in the wall at the upper end, in memory 
 of some of the good missionaries who have passed 
 away. These are the only decoration. Mr. Du- 
 thie conducted the preliminary services, and then 
 my husband preached the sermon, which was 
 interpreted by the native pastor sentence by sen- 
 tence. All the service was in Tamil, except the 
 
193 SCENES IX SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 first hymn, which was English, and sung by all 
 the congregation. ^liss Duthie played the har- 
 monium, and the people stood during the singing 
 and reverently knelt at prayer, joining audibly in 
 the Lord's Prayer and reading ever>' alternate 
 verse of the Psalms for the day. Apparently all 
 the people can read. 
 
 It was one of the most thrillingly interesting 
 and impressive serv ices I have ever been present 
 at, and stirred our hearts more than I can tell. I 
 would have come all this way, though for nothing 
 else than to see that large congregation of devout, 
 ■worshipping, intelligent, well-to-do, self-respect- 
 ing people, who support their own pastor and 
 schoolmasters. Besides this, they contributed last 
 year 3,000 rupees to the general work of the mis- 
 sion in operating on the outside heathen. The 
 service lasted for two hours, and then came the 
 slow retiring of the people — "the skailing of the 
 kirk," as we should say in Scotland; and this was 
 as fine a sight as any. Many gathered round to 
 shake hands and talk to us strangers; and then 
 we watched the picturesque groups wending their 
 way homeward, the fathers with the little ones in 
 their hands and the women in twos and threes 
 behind. It put me in mind of similar scenes I 
 have watched a hundred times on the hillsides 
 at home, generally on a "Sabbath eve in sum- 
 
woman's work. SUNDAY AT NAGERCOIL. I93 
 
 mertide," when a solemn communion-time had 
 gathered many grave worshippers from far and 
 near, who, now that the services were over and 
 the day far spent, were reverently retiring from 
 the moor or glen where the congregation had 
 sat and worshipped, where they had had their 
 "feast of fat things" during the long summer 
 day. 
 
 But this was only the first of many ser\-ices. 
 The church bell seemed to ring out all day for 
 something or other. First came the various Sun- 
 day-schools, one or two in the church, one in the 
 veranda of the mission-house, and I think also in 
 the girls' and boys' day-schools. 
 
 These Sunday-schools are now quite a feature 
 — and a most important one — in every mission. 
 A meeting I enjoyed very much was one with the 
 Bible-women in the forenoon in our wide veranda. 
 Another, after an hour's rest, and I think the 
 most interesting of all, was a monster Bible-class 
 for grown-up women in the church. The mis- 
 sionaries rightly regard the training of the wives 
 and mothers as of the first importance; hence this 
 regular catechising which is held every Sunday 
 afternoon. And truly it was a striking sight to see 
 the big church quite filled with women — all Chris- 
 tians, of course — from the aged, gray-haired great- 
 grandmother downwards. Many of the younger 
 13 
 
ig4 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 women had babies in tlieir arms and all had 
 open Bibles in their hands. They were being 
 questioned by the pastor when we went in, and 
 every one in turn gave out her answer in a free, 
 frank, natural way, occasionally putting a ques- 
 tion in return. The pastor at once handed over 
 the exercise to my husband, who catechised all 
 round quite con amore ; and we were delighted 
 with the intelligence and knowledge of many of 
 the women, especially those who had been Chris- 
 tians from their youth up. 
 
 A short evening service closed the busy day. 
 ]\Ir. Lee the while had been away in different 
 parts of his extensive parish. He has sixty sta- 
 tions under his supervision in a radius of about 
 twenty miles. These he visits alternately, and 
 each has its pastor or catechist and place of wor- 
 ship. 
 
 We drove one afternoon into the native town 
 of Kottar to see the church in which Francis 
 Xavier preached so long. It is rather a large, 
 good building, with a stone porch and a stone 
 floor, on which several poor-looking worshippers 
 were kneeling, and a priest was at the high altar 
 engaged in some service. The house where the 
 great missionary lived stands somewhere near. 
 He was a great missionary. Whatever his errors, 
 they were those of his church. His zeal, his cu- 
 
woman's work. SUNDAY AT NAGERCOIL. 195 
 
 thusiasm, his self-consecration and devotion to 
 the mission cause, were truly heroic. It is told 
 of him that the whole of the first night he was on 
 Indian soil he spent in solitary prayer to God, for 
 whose service he had given up much, or all^ in 
 his native land. 
 
196 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 CAPE COMORI^f. 
 
 Our kind friends had promised iis a sight of 
 their Ultima Thule, the renowned cape, the 
 Land's End of India. So yesterday this famous 
 expedition came off. All had been most kindly 
 prepared the night before, and at two in the morn- 
 ing my husband and I stole noiselessly out of Mr. 
 Duthie's veranda. Silently we took our seats in 
 two light cane chairs slung between long stout 
 bamboos. There were eight bearers to each chair, 
 dressed, as usual, in their own tidy black skins, 
 stalwart, civil men, half their number doing duty 
 at a time. Thus, each "borne of four," we set 
 out on our night-march of twelve miles. It was 
 certainly a dreary, sleepy start, for the young 
 moon had set and it was pitch dark. I could not 
 help casting a few longing looks back to the deep 
 repose from which we had been aroused, for one's 
 natural rest does count for a good deal after such 
 hot and busy days. We had no cheerful, flaming 
 torches either which generally accompany the 
 night traveller in India; they do not seem to be 
 the fashion here. However, the night air was 
 
CAPK COMORIN. 
 
 197 
 
 very refreshing; the murky canopy overhead soon 
 began to reveal a silver lining, the clouds gath- 
 ered themselves away to the mountain-tops, and 
 the beautiful stars gleamed out of the darkness, 
 filling one's mind with sweet and happy thoughts. 
 How often, in like manner, do the gracious prom- 
 ises of our God shine out through the deepest sor- 
 row-clouds, making us lift up our eyes towards 
 the heavens, from whence comes our help ! 
 
 As soon as we had quite cleared the mission 
 compound and were out of hearing our bearers 
 set up a plaintive sort of chant in a high mono- 
 tone, which, on the whole, was rather pleasing. 
 They trudged cheerily along the broad, tolerably 
 good road, amply fringed with fine large banyan- 
 trees and now and then narrowing into what 
 looked merely a bridge over the numerous bits of 
 water gathered in tanks and in the little rice- 
 fields. We passed a number of hamlets, which 
 lay silent as the dead except for the howls of the 
 wretched pariah dogs of evil nature who infest 
 every village in the East, and the crowing of the 
 village cocks, a cheering intimation that dawn 
 was not far off. Accordingly after a steady march 
 of full three hours a few delicate lines of pearly 
 gray tinged faintly the eastern sky. Gradually 
 the color deepened ; a pinky shade stole softly 
 into the gray, which again deepened at the hori- 
 
igS SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 zon to a brilliant rose, and then the sun showed 
 himself and the light of day triumphed gloriously 
 over the darkness and dreariness of the nijrht. 
 Very soon we heard the murmur of the sea and 
 we found we were near our journey's end. We 
 had left the mountains behind and the land had 
 gradually narrowed. The cultivation now was 
 more rude; the soil and the roads had alike be- 
 come sand and the trees looked knotted and 
 gnarled with bared roots and storm -driven 
 branches, like veteran tars who had withstood 
 many a tempest in the shrouds. Then came the 
 palmyra-fringed coast and finally the great wide 
 sea, looking shivery and slate-colored, with the 
 strangest fishing craft about and boats and canoes 
 close to the shore. 
 
 Mr. Lee had come out the day before to one 
 of his stations, arranging to meet us here, and 
 now he rode up and took possession of us in a 
 very restful way. He conducted us to a large 
 empty bungalow, standing high over the sea, a 
 sort of sanitarium belonging to the resident at 
 the maharajah's court in Trevandrum. Here the 
 happy possessor has a glorious sea-view with per- 
 fect solitude and leisure and good hearty whiffs 
 of the invigorating salt-sea breeze. Mr. Lee's 
 ser\^ant awaited us here with a tin of hot coffee, 
 after which welcome refreshment we were able to 
 
CAPE COMORIX. 
 
 199 
 
 go forth and explore. The bearers threw them- 
 selves down on the sand and were asleep iu a 
 minute. 
 
 Although Travancore as a whole is so full of 
 natural loveliness, yet just at the cape there is 
 nothing very striking in the scenery. The grand 
 mountain ranges of the Western Ghats, though 
 sometimes taken by navigators for the cape, are 
 some distance from it. 
 
 There are no bold headlands or precipitous 
 crags lighthouse-crowned just at the land's end, 
 only a few island-rocks with the white surf dash- 
 ing over them, and always the beautiful, glitter- 
 ing sea stretching away to the far horizon. But 
 there are other things interesting and new. It 
 was curious to watch the long, narrow canoes, the 
 catamarans of the coast, each with its picturesque 
 occupant, a stalwart, broad-chested, bronze fisher- 
 man, entirely innocent of clothing but for a bit of 
 rag round his loins, standing erect in his boat, 
 with an oar or fishing-tackle in his hand, suspend- 
 ing operations while he stared at the intruders. 
 These canoes are built from the stem of a single 
 tree and are generally of the rudest construction. 
 
 Another feature was the endless forests of the 
 palmyra and cocoa palm. Along the shore on 
 every hand there stretches a broad margin of 
 deep, sandy waste, which is filled with ten thou- 
 
200 SCENES IX SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 sands of these stately, remarkable trees. This 
 tree, indeed, is the only thing in vegetation 
 which could find sustenance in this unkindly soil, 
 and it does so because it strikes its roots down 
 deep enough until it finds what is needful to its 
 life. The palmyra is not exactly a pretty tree, 
 but it is exceedingly majestic and the staflf of life 
 to the poor population of the coast 
 
 From the palm forests we scrambled down 
 among the rocks, until the green waves rippled to 
 our feet, and here we found new "treasures of the 
 deep," more strange and beautiful than anything 
 we had ever seen before, in the marvellously-col- 
 ored sands which embellish this curious shore. 
 It was chiefly to see these we came to the cape, 
 and they are quite as wonderful and beautiful as 
 we had been told. Picture a great bed of fine, 
 soft sea-sand entirely black, then close to it, but 
 quite distinct, another of brilliant ruby red, spark- 
 ling and shimmering in the sun-rays like crushed 
 diamonds and rubies; then another bed, much the 
 same iu size, of a yellowish white hue, large and 
 rough-grained: this is the famous rice-sand, and 
 it exactly resembles unboiled rice. After the rice 
 comes another bed of the brilliant red, and an- 
 other and another, of black, garnet, and white, 
 alternating like beds in a flower parterre and quite 
 as distinct, the colors always keeping apart. 
 
CAPE COMORIX. 
 
 20I 
 
 By-and-by we strolled up towards a village 
 which crowned a little eminence over the sea. 
 Some men had come down to look at us, and alto- 
 gether our appearance seemed to create much 
 wonderment; but the people were always pleased 
 when ^Ir. Lee spoke to them in their own tongue. 
 They are certainly the strangest looking savages 
 we have yet seen in this region. The women 
 look specially wild. Their hair stands on end in 
 a brush on the top of their heads, and they have 
 no clothing beyond the bit of dirty rag, called a 
 cloth, hung round from the waist. We parsed 
 unmolested through the Brahman street — a great 
 concession, for there is a large temple here dedi- 
 cated to the god Shiva, and it is esteemed a spe- 
 cially holy spot. Indeed, the whole place is con- 
 sidered sacred, and great numbers of pilgrims visit 
 the temple at certain periods of the year. There 
 were many dark-visaged men, much besmeared 
 with white ashes and paint, loafing idly about, 
 who did not seem to relish our presence and who 
 point blank refused to let the gentlemen enter 
 even the outer inclosure of the temple. The pa- 
 tron goddess of this great shrine is Durga, one of 
 the wives of Shiva, and the building is said to be 
 of very ancient date. It is completely surrounded 
 by high walls, ornamented with stripes of color, 
 and there are four fine monoliths in front. 
 
202 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 It was now getting hot, as the sun was rapidly 
 mounting in the heavens, and, being tired, I sat 
 down in the shade, while the gentlemen went in 
 search of some of the villages where the Roman- 
 catholic fishermen were to be found. There are 
 many Roman - catholics on this coast, Xavier 
 having commenced a mission here in 1542, and 
 most are fishermen. The gentlemen entered one 
 or two villages, which were unspeakably filthy, 
 with swarms of children and dogs and flies, and 
 hideous with smells. They found in one of them 
 two cars like those of the god Juggernaut, which 
 are drawn about during festival times. One is 
 dedicated to St. Joseph and the other to the Vir- 
 gin Mary, so low have these poor so-called Chris- 
 tians sunk. 
 
 Meanwhile I was soon surrounded by a crowd 
 of women and children, with a ring of men out- 
 side, all staring at the white-faced stranger most 
 unmercifully and keeping up a chorus of begging. 
 It was a strange place. Within a stone's throw 
 of where I sat there was the large Hindoo temple, 
 also a mandapmi, or temple-court, with handsome 
 carved pillars and sculptures and innumerable 
 grotesque little carved deities stuck over every 
 place. A little way off there were several white 
 pyramidal stones used by the Shanars for their 
 devil-worship, and, in the midst of all, a Roman- 
 
CAPE COMORIN. 203 
 
 catholic church, sunnouuted by a cross. Behind 
 me a noisy school of both boys and girls occupied 
 the veranda of the inandapan^ shouting their les- 
 sons at the top of their voices or scratching their 
 "copies" with a dagger-like stylus on slips of 
 palm leaf. These slips were very neatly cut, and 
 the little urchins were proud to show me their ac- 
 complishment in writing on these novel copy- 
 books. I was not sorry when the gentlemen re- 
 appeared. 
 
 We got into our chairs and, preceded by Mr. 
 Lee on his good little steed as a guide, set out for 
 the village where we were to spend the day. Mr. 
 Lee once interrupted a devil-dance in this place. 
 A crowd surrounded a man who was gesticulating 
 frantically and spinning round in a kind of dance, 
 pretending to be " possessed. " He tried to fright- 
 en the pony and so get rid of the rider, but Mr. 
 Lee made the frisky little creature caper about a 
 little, when the man bolted, terror-stricken. The 
 fickle crowd shouted in derision and finally heard 
 the missionary with quiet attention for an hour 
 while he preached to them from his saddle. Af- 
 terwards some of them came regularly to seek 
 him and hear him at his nearest preaching sta- 
 tion. 
 
 Our route lay over the sand through the thick 
 palmyra forest. Here this prince of trees, as it is 
 
204 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 rightly called, exists in all its majesty and useful- 
 ness. A proverb says of it, "If you plant it, it 
 will grow for a thousand years; if you cut it, it 
 will last a thousand years." They also say that 
 it can supply every real need of a man's life. 
 With its wood he can build his house or his ca- 
 noe; the branches provide the thatch and the in- 
 closures, also his punka, umbrella, rope, station- 
 ery, and a thousand things, while the sap is so 
 nutritious he can almost live upon it. 
 
 We stopped for a little while to watch the 
 climbers go up the tree and get some of the juice 
 for our men to drink. It was most amusing to 
 see them clamber up the straight, bare, branch- 
 less stems like monkeys, making skilful use of 
 hands and toes alike, sometimes to the height of 
 80 or 90 feet. This they do to remove the sap or 
 juice, which has been drawn off in a little earthen 
 pot at the top. They have the little pot hooked 
 on to the waistcloth behind.; they ascend with 
 great rapidity, remove the full pot, make a fresh 
 incision in the bark, fasten on the empty one, and 
 descend as rapidly as they went up. There are 
 frequent accidents, however, we were sorry to 
 hear, and our medical missionaries have often 
 cases in their wards of men who have fallen from 
 their lofty perches in these tree-tops, who are often 
 thus led to the Physician of souls. The juice is 
 
CAPE COMORIN. 
 
 205 
 
 excellent when fresh, a luscious sort of drink. 
 After it ferments it becomes intoxicating, and, I 
 am afraid, is most popular in this condition, and 
 it is largely consumed by the Shanars, especially 
 in their orgies at festival times. But its chief use 
 is for the manufacture of sugar — a coarse, dark 
 sort of soft stuff called jagry^ much used by the 
 people. These climbers ascend as many as 40 or 
 50 trees in a day, often, indeed, twice a day. 
 This is only one of the hundred ways in which 
 this wonderful tree ministers to the wants of the 
 inhabitants, who but for it would be badly off in- 
 deed in these sandy wastes. We saw a great 
 many specimens of the umbrella-tree, as it is 
 called, a sort of acacia, with a short, bare stem 
 and a mass of thick, thoruy bush spread out flat 
 at the top like a Japanese umbrella. It is very 
 curious and gives a dense and perfect shade. 
 
 By-and-by we came to a clearing, where we 
 found a considerable native village. Groups of 
 neat, tidy cottages, with deep, overhanging eaves, 
 thatched and inclosed with branches of palm leaf, 
 stood under some large trees, and in the midst of 
 them a little Christian church. This was a na- 
 tive Christian village, one of Mr. Lee's stations, 
 and here we were to spend the day. It may be 
 imagined with what interest we entered it, once 
 the dwelling-place of demon- worshippers, where 
 
2o6 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 the horrible rites of this degrading superstition 
 were practised, and now filled with the habita- 
 tions of those who had been rescued from the 
 miry clay of this lowest heathenism and taught to 
 worship the true and living God. The kind peo- 
 ple gathered out of their homes to welcome us, 
 headed by their pastor and the dresser, a young 
 medical student trained by Dr. Thomson, of Ne- 
 yoor; for, beside the church, there is a small dis- 
 pensary and also a school. They took us at once 
 to the church, and we found in a little room be- 
 hind — a prophet's chamber, used by the mission- 
 ary on his visits — a comfortable breakfast pre- 
 pared for us. 
 
 The village is called Agusteespuram, after the 
 Tamil sage, Agustees, who once lived here. It is 
 one of the oldest stations of the Nagercoil Mis- 
 sion and has a congregation of six hundred, who 
 support their own pastor and pay their own school- 
 master. One interesting point to us was that the 
 church was built by Ringeltaube. It is a plain, 
 substantial, barn-like structure, with whitewashed 
 walls, bare floor, and a simple rail across the upper 
 end, where a small reading-desk stands. The win- 
 dows gave the place a quaint, old-fashioned look, 
 there being no blinds or glass, but the frames were 
 filled with waved bars of wood, very ingenious 
 and pretty, and the work of Ringeltaube, admit- 
 
CAPE COMORIX. 207 
 
 tiug liglit and keeping out intruders, while the 
 glare is completely softened by the shady trees 
 without. 
 
 After breakfast the church bells rang out, and 
 presently the whole place was filled to overflow- 
 ing, while groups stood at every window. The 
 people sat on the floor closely packed, the men on 
 one side and the women on the other, while within 
 the rail the pastors, catechists, and elders of the 
 church sat on chairs on each side of the pulpit. 
 The great majority of all present were converted 
 Shanars. There were six pastors who had come 
 to meet us from distant stations, one of whom, a 
 venerable, gentle-faced man, was the grandson of 
 the first convert in this region, the one who was 
 the means of bringing Ringeltaube to Travancore. 
 It was most interesting to meet the good old grand- 
 son. 
 
 After the men had been introduced to us and 
 we had some talk, the service began, and a de- 
 lightful, impressive time followed; the vSpirit was 
 felt to be in the midst of us. The patriarchal 
 pastor prayed in the most fervent way. Shutting 
 my eyes, I could have fancied it was the earnest, 
 reverential tones of one of our own men of the 
 Highlands pouring out his soul at a Gaelic com- 
 munion-time, a feeling which only strengthened 
 when, at the singing which followed, the precen- 
 
203 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 tor read out the line before it was sung. I con- 
 fess, however, that afterwards the spell was com- 
 pletely broken when "instrumental music" was 
 added. And the instrument was a fiddle, a "gen- 
 uine fiddle," as my husband said, and not merely 
 the vina^ which in Western India the people love 
 as an accompaniment when chanting their plaint- 
 ive lyrics; still, it was not quite so incongruous as 
 might have been supposed. My husband preached 
 a good long sermon and next gave an address ; 
 and, again like the Highlanders, the people never 
 stirred or seemed to tire. Several of the pastors 
 knew English well and interpreted for him. Mr. 
 Lee spoke and some of the pastors did the same; 
 many earnest prayers were offered and there was 
 deep impression. So it went on all day. 
 
 I had a most interesting hour with the women, 
 who during a pause in the services gathered round 
 me, bringing their lace pillows with them and 
 working neatly and deftly while we talked. I also 
 visited some of the homes, which were clean and 
 neat, and afterwards we had a great deal of talk 
 with the men, who gave us many interesting facts 
 regarding the condition of the people formerly, 
 contrasting it with the improvement of the pres- 
 ent. They spoke especially of the rise there is 
 among the Christians in social position and stand- 
 ing, also in their character morally and spiritually; 
 
CAPE COMORIN. 
 
 and we were glad to be assured that caste feeling 
 is decidedly declining among them. They spoke 
 also hopefully of the change there is for the better 
 in the heathen community generally, and gave 
 many striking proofs that enlightenment and 
 progress are entering even dark Brahmanical Tra- 
 vancore. 
 
 In former times the oppression and cruelties 
 practised by the high castes towards the low were 
 fearful. If a water-bund broke, or any other ca- 
 lamity happened, a pariah, or low-caste man, was 
 at once sacrificed to appease the gods. Slavery 
 existed until quite lately, and the slaves were 
 often most cruelly used. One of the pastors told 
 us that he had seen with his own eyes a woman 
 and a buffalo yoked together in a plough ! He 
 also saw two women tied together by the hair of 
 their heads and then thrashed with thorns. It 
 was an infinite relief to find that such things 
 would not be tolerated now, though no doubt 
 there is oppression enough as it is. 
 
 Altogether this was one of the most interest- 
 ing "mission-days" we have ever had; but too 
 soon it came to a close. At five o'clock Mr. Lee 
 announced that it was time to depart ; so, after 
 many leave-takings and kind words from the peo- 
 ple, we got into our chairs and started. The even- 
 ing was so lovely that all the fatigues of the long, 
 
 Sreni-i In Southom Imlla. J A 
 
2IO SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 exciting day were forgotten. The scenery of this 
 garden of South India, so famed for its beauty, is 
 specially lovely in the softened light of evening. 
 After the blaze of the glaring day has gone, the 
 harmony, the serenity, the blended colors, the 
 tender, sweet beauty all come out with the lights 
 of evening. As we left the palm forests behind 
 and turned our faces towards the mountain-ranges 
 which tower over Nagercoil, the views became 
 more glorious at every turn. Some of these sum- 
 mits, five or six thousand feet high, are superb in 
 their rough and rugged grandeur. Some have 
 rounded tops, and others pointed, fantastic peaks, 
 while others lie in long, serrated ridges or low, 
 wavy, rolling undulations, but all are striking 
 and beautiful. The scene grew more and more 
 peaceful as the color faded and darkness closed 
 in, and I was glad when the bearers hushed their 
 intoning of their own accord. Altogether the 
 evening was a fitting close to the memorable day. 
 
NEYOOR. TAREYCHALEY. 211 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 NEYOOR. PAREYCHALEY. 
 
 We are busy packing up for a fresh start. A 
 machine stands out there beyond the veranda in 
 the shade all ready for us. It is an odd little 
 green box of a bandy, with rather a dispropor- 
 tionate pair of stately white bullocks standing 
 beside. This is to carry us to our next halting- 
 place, Neyoor, and has been provided for our use 
 by the native Christians, who hospitably insist on 
 "speeding the parting guest" by sending us on 
 our way free of expense to ourselves. 
 
 Here we are at this important station of the 
 London Missionary Society, which is also the 
 centre of the medical part of the mission, now 
 imder the care of Dr. Thomson. When we started 
 jesterday Mr. Duthie drove me out a little way, 
 while Mr. Crosbie, the judge, took my husband 
 in his " trap," to a point whence we had a glori- 
 ous view of the mountains which lie about thig 
 lovely sequestered spot of earth. The scene might 
 have been that round our own Loch Lomond oi 
 Loch Maree if, instead of the wide, smiling val- 
 ley, waving with green rice crops and intersected 
 
212 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 with magnificent trees, there had slept a stately 
 loch. A tiny lake did sparkle at our feet, but 
 the beauty lay in the superb mountain ranges, 
 with their jagged ridges and purple, serrated 
 sides, now veiled in a dreamy blue mist. A 
 happy valley this expanse of green loveliness 
 looks, and well might be in reality but for the old 
 story that "only man is vile." Another of the 
 pastors with whom we had much talk told us of 
 some dreadful iniquities he saw practised in this 
 very valley on the poor low-caste slaves, which I 
 cannot bring myself to write. Oh, what a relief 
 to think that now more humane counsels prevail 
 under the influence of our own beneficent Gov- 
 ernment; also that missionaries are at work and 
 that the Spirit of truth and love and light is now 
 moving over the great darkness ! 
 
 About five o'clock we got into our bandy and 
 set off by the Trevandrura road straight for Ne- 
 yoor, only some twelve miles off. It was rather 
 rough and rutty, bumping us up and down in 
 our primitive little machine, but wc enjoyed our 
 drive in the evening loveliness through the pic- 
 turesque scenery of this fairy-like land. A great 
 deal of water is stored in tanks and little canals 
 in order to irrigate the rice-fields, so that all 
 along the road you come on what look like lakes 
 and serpentines and pretty rivulets, which give a 
 
NEYOOR. PAREYCHALEY. 
 
 213 
 
 charming variety to the scener}', fringed as the 
 banks often are with a wealth of beautiful wood. 
 We passed a great many demon-temples, generally 
 well smeared with whitewash, though not with 
 the red paint you see on idol-shrines in the Ma- 
 ratha country. At a little village half way a 
 catechist and two or three deacons were waiting 
 for us, sitting by their little roadside church. 
 They escorted us the rest of the way, talking all 
 the time and giving much information, keeping 
 pace with the bullocks, who thought it quite be- 
 neath their dignity to go out of a stately walk. 
 Some of these Christians arc pleasant, superior, 
 thinking men. 
 
 We are the guests of Mr. and Mrs. Hacker, 
 whose acquaintance we made in Nagercoil. They 
 received us most warmly, had tea ready, and then 
 we all went into the large church, which stands 
 in the compound, where we found an immense 
 assemblage of people gathered to hear the stran- 
 ger-missionary gentleman. 
 
 The next morning we were out almost before 
 the sun to explore, and found a fine large com- 
 pound in which stood two good mission -houses, 
 the church, hospital, dispensary, and other build- 
 ings for schools, with some very beautiful trees 
 intermingling and giving beauty to the whole. 
 There are one or two tombstones also in one 
 
214 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 place which commemorate some of the mission- 
 aries who have died there. We breakfasted with 
 Dr. and Mrs. Thomson, who live in one of the 
 bungalows, but before then Dr. Thomson had 
 shown us all his work. We first went to the dis- 
 pensary-, where about thirty of the patients were 
 assembled and all the students, and there was a 
 short service. Dr. Mitchell gave a brief address, 
 which was translated by one of the dressers, after 
 which a pastor prayed, when all the patients 
 knelt and repeated the simple words clause by 
 clause after him. This over we saw the prem- 
 ises, including the class-rooms, where we made 
 friends with the students and dressers. The lat- 
 ter are those whose studies are completed and 
 who will be sent forth to work at branch stations. 
 Of these there are only six at present, and there is 
 a great demand for dressers; but several of the 
 students we saw will soon be ready to undertake 
 the charge of a dispensary as full-fledged doctors. 
 I was particularly pleased with the appearance of 
 these young fellows ; they have bright, frank, 
 good faces and honest expressions. IVIost of thera 
 support themselves, with no help from the mis- 
 sion. 
 
 The enormous amount of work which is ac- 
 complished by this medical mission and the ben- 
 efit it is to the people are shown by the fact that 
 
NEYOOR. PAREYCHALEY. 
 
 215 
 
 during the past year the number of patients who 
 have been treated in the Neyoor Mission and its 
 six branches — including those attended in their 
 own homes — amounted to upwards of 24,600. 
 These include Christians, heathen, and Moham- 
 medans, and the diseases of course are of all 
 kinds. 
 
 It is very pleasing to hear that the Govern- 
 ment helps the mission considerably; a wonder- 
 fully enlightened Government it seems to be, 
 though a heathen one. The maharajah gave the 
 money, I believe, which built some of the best 
 wards in the hospital. After breakfast we saw 
 some of Mrs. Thomson's admirable day-schools, 
 of which there are four. The pupils are mostly 
 drawn from the better castes and there are a good 
 many Brahman girls among them. These chil- 
 dren attend the Sunday-school and make no ob- 
 jection to the Bible as a class-book; they also sing 
 Christian hymns and lyrics delightfully. One of 
 the latter we heard begins with words like these: 
 "Sweeter than honey the name of Jesus sounds;" 
 and such hymns they sing in their homes and 
 even in the streets. Thus the truth must spread, 
 the good seed being sown here, as happily else- 
 where over the land. But, unfortunately, as in 
 other parts, these girls leave school at the age of 
 ten or twelve to be married, and they never re- 
 
2l6 
 
 SCENES IX SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 turn after the marriajre or betrothal has taken 
 place. Several Bible-women, however, are em- 
 ployed in house-to-house visitation and follow the 
 gdrls to their new homes, so keeping up the in- 
 fluence and often carry ing on a simple education 
 for years after they have left school. 
 
 One of the Bible- women I saw had gone about 
 the country teaching and preaching and speaking 
 to the women in the villages long before Bible- 
 women were appointed by the mission. She had 
 had her bodily ailments cured, she said, but more, 
 "she had been cured of her sins," and "the 
 blessed medicine" which had effected this she 
 had gone to make known to her poor sisters, who 
 needed it as much as she did. How intensely in- 
 teresting it is to sit down with a group of these 
 humble women gathered round you, their soft- 
 ened, speaking countenances turned up to yours, 
 all aglow as they hear and speak of the love of 
 Christ which has done so much for them ! A 
 light sometimes shines on these faces, rugged and 
 illiterate as they often are, which only the en- 
 trance of God's Spirit into the human soul could 
 produce. 
 
 One thing I notice is that ever\-where among 
 the women, high and low, there is a dawning 
 knowledge of a higher sphere which has been 
 opened for them — a something better which they 
 
XEYOOR. PAREYCHALEY. 
 
 217 
 
 might possess and which they long for, which 
 has been "brought to light" by the Christians' 
 God. And I think this wins many — along with 
 their loYe for the Bible; the latter has a special 
 attraction for them, because, as they express it, 
 "It says kind things about us women." Their 
 own books "say cruel things," but our Book "is 
 kind," and He who fed the Ayc thousand "is 
 kind;" and "did He not suffer and die for us?" 
 So they talk, poor things ! I haYC been much 
 interested in the women both in Xagercoil and 
 here, though perhaps they correspond more to the 
 humbler orders of those I have come in contact 
 with in Bengal and Bombav. 
 
 In the middle of the day we had another won- 
 derfully interesting service in the church, when 
 all the male agents and workers of the mission 
 assembled to hear an address from my husband. 
 On one side sat the teachers and schoolmasters in 
 compact lines, of whom there were seventy-two; 
 on the other side were fifty-three catechists and 
 forty pastors — intelligent, well-dressed, respect- 
 able men, grave and thoughtful, truly a most 
 striking sight ! How I wished all the skeptics 
 about missions and their fruits could have seen 
 it. Then there were the dressers and medical 
 students and students preparing for the ministry 
 and other work (some of tliese were from Mr. 
 
2l8 SCENES IX SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 Duthie's seminary), also a few colporters, and, 
 beyond, a goodly fringe of listeners and on-look- 
 ers and the general public about the doors. 
 
 Dr. ^Mitchell spoke to them for upwards of an 
 hour with intense earnestness. The impression 
 was very deep ; some were weeping, and every 
 one felt that the Spirit of the living God was in 
 the midst of us. I never saw more intent listen- 
 ers and never felt my own heart more touched. 
 Many of these had been devil-worshippers, and 
 now how amazing the contrast, showing how the 
 gospel is taking, or I might say lias taken, hold 
 in this dark land I 
 
 After the service I left my husband in earnest 
 talk with the men and went to meet the women 
 in Mr. Hacker's veranda. Crowds of nice-looking 
 women came, dressed generally in red cloths, and 
 all, I noticed, wore the upper jackets. The three 
 Bible- women are particularly intelligent ; they 
 work under Mrs. Thomson, who meets with them 
 often for consultation and prayer. Among the 
 rest were Mrs. Hacker's embroider}' workers. In- 
 stead of the lace which thev make at Nagercoil 
 the women here are employed in making em- 
 broider)' and trimmings similar to the Irish and 
 Swiss work; and they do it beautifully and on 
 good, fine calico. This industry is most helpful 
 to the mission and Mrs. Hacker is very glad to 
 
XEYOOR. PAREYCHALEY. 
 
 219 
 
 receive orders. Many ladies help much in taking 
 qtiantities of the embroidery for sale at other sta- 
 tions and on the hills, and it is of so good a qual- 
 ity that, like the lace, it finds ready purchasers. 
 
 IMeetings with the boys and girls of the board- 
 ing-schools followed and filled up the afternoon ; 
 troops of them came filing into the veranda, all 
 from the Christian schools, and we had a busy 
 and interesting time. The boys brought us some 
 texts, written beautifully in Tamil on slips of the 
 palmyra leaf. Brighter and nicer children I never 
 saw, and they were not too shy to give out their 
 answers distinctly and fearlessly. Many were the 
 inquiries which were made that day about Mr. 
 and Mrs. Lowe, and many the loving messages 
 sent to them. They are anything but forgotten 
 in their old sphere of labor. 
 
 The heat was intense all day, but we managed 
 to forget it and our fatigue also in the absorbing 
 interest of this tnie mission-day. When it grew 
 cooler we had a visit from a pleasing, intelligent 
 native gentleman, the retired dewan, or prime 
 minister, of His Highness the Maharajah, who 
 lives in Neyoor. After some talk he courteously 
 ofTered us a drive, and took us out in his open 
 carriage to see something of the place. The 
 fresher air of the evening was most reviving and 
 restful after the stifling day as we sped along 
 
220 SCENES IX SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 beneath the arching trees by the cool little ser- 
 pentines and rice-fields. We passed the dewan's 
 handsome English-looking house standing in a 
 garden beautifully kept, and then we came on an 
 idol or demon temple, which we stopped to ex- 
 amine. 
 
 It was a most rough and rude erection, a kind 
 of shed more than a building, about six feet 
 square, covered over for a roof with dried branch- 
 es of the palmyra-tree. Inside there was the most 
 grotesque and hideous image it is possible to con- 
 ceive, a female, with glaring, staring eyes, a dag- 
 ger uplifted in her hand, two tusks for teeth, be- 
 tween which an infant was represented as being 
 crushed to death, and a bigger child on her arm 
 ready to be devoured next — truly a most fiendish 
 deity. And the poor deluded people propitiate 
 her ! There were some now making offerings of 
 chickens and bowing in obeisance to this hideous 
 object, who is called Isaki. 
 
 The legend is that this is the evil spirit of a 
 woman who died unmarried, and therefore, hating 
 and spiteful and revengeful, she returned to trou- 
 ble the people evermore. Small-pox is also be- 
 lieved to be a demoness, and now that this terrible 
 disease is scourging the country, the price of chick- 
 ens has risen alarmingly, so many are offered to 
 appease the infuriated demoness ! 
 
NKYOOR. 
 
 PAREYCHALEY. 
 
 221 
 
 PAREYCHALEY. 
 
 When the kind family at Neyoor retired to rest 
 last night we meant to start for Pareychaley in a 
 country cart which my husband had engaged for 
 the trip. Unluckily the driver had insisted on 
 * ' an advance, ' ' and as soon as he got the rupees 
 he disappeared into the bazar to enjoy himself 
 and was no more seen. Of course the gentlemen 
 had taken the precaution to secure the cart and 
 bullocks in the compound, but when the time 
 came to start no driver could be found. Messen- 
 gers were despatched in all directions and grave 
 consultations followed. I blush to think of the 
 commotion and disturbance we created and the 
 lively night it was for our friends Mr. and Mrs. 
 Hacker. Presently, by one of those little provi- 
 dences we love to recall and mark, wc were res- 
 cued from all our difficulties. The kind dewan, 
 Mr. Nana Pillay, sent to offer his carriage to take 
 us part of the way, so as to save us fatigue ; and 
 hearing of the deadlock our plans had got into, 
 he also arranged most kindly to send on his bul- 
 lock-bandy ahead, to wait until we should come 
 up, and carry us to the end of the night journey; 
 so our perplexities were delightfully solved. By 
 four o'clock we had left the disturbed dwelling 
 once more to peace and were bowling along in 
 comfort, enjoying greatly the fine daybreak. 
 
222 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 The young moon had retired to rest, the fire- 
 flies had extinguished their bright little lamps, 
 the shrill chorus of the grasshoppers and crickets 
 from the sJiola had ceased, and the many-toned 
 voices of night were hushed. But the cool wind 
 sang a glad morning hymn in the palmyra plumes, 
 the birds were beginning to shake out their feath- 
 ers in the branches and twitter to arouse their 
 mates, the *' fell chanticleer" was doing the same 
 thing noisily for the villages, and the tender twin- 
 kling stars were rapidly growing pale and retiring 
 before the pink flush from the advancing dawn. 
 It was a lovely, dewy morning, and the sun had 
 risen by the time we came up to the bandy with 
 a pair of splendid bullocks, which took us quickly 
 to the end. 
 
 As we turned into the road which leads up to 
 this mission-house we were met by a tall, fine- 
 looking man, who accosted us so heartily and 
 shook hands with us so warmly that we felt our 
 welcome was more than sure. This was Mr. Eni- 
 lyn, the only European missionary at Pareychaley. 
 He soon conducted us up the slope ; we turned in 
 to the front of a large bungalow and stood before 
 a wide, handsome veranda commanding magnifi- 
 cent views of the country below. Now we were 
 met by Mrs. Emlyn and her little girl. There is 
 no village to be seen and only the houses and 
 
NEYOOR. 
 
 PALEVCIIALEY. 
 
 223 
 
 buildings belonging to the mission. Here this 
 couple live, charming people, who would enjoy 
 and adorn any society; and Mrs. Emlyn tells me 
 she has been sometimes two years without seeing 
 the face of an English lady, there being no other 
 European family nearer than Neyoor. But they 
 are as happy as they can be, thoroughly occupied 
 and busy with their schools and Christians and 
 embroidery-workers and all their manifold work. 
 They have their dear little girl, "enough society 
 in herself," her mother says, though she sorely 
 misses her three bright boys who are in England 
 at school. 
 
 The bungalow is large and handsome and the 
 situation exceedingly beautiful. It stands high, 
 and at our feet lies a garden full of loveliness ; 
 beyond there are extensive wavy undulations, 
 wonderfully green, beautifully wooded with sJiola^ 
 or jungle, and fine trees, and the whole bounded 
 by grand ranges of dark purple mountains in the 
 dim, dreamy distance. This place was chosen for 
 a station by the Rev. Mr. Abbs, a late missionary, 
 Mr. Emlyn thinks partly for the beauty of the 
 situation, but also because the site was easily and 
 cheaply secured. This was because it had so evil 
 a reputation, as the abode of a demon who haunt- 
 ed the woods, that no one would live here. At 
 first the people thought as the white men cut down 
 
224 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 the jungle the demon would destroy them ; but 
 no, they went on unmolested. So now they have 
 changed their opinion, and think the missionaries 
 have conquered the demon and he has beaten a 
 retreat to the hills. 
 
 We sat a long time over breakfast, when Mr. 
 Emlyn gave us many interesting and amusing, 
 though deplorable, details of what existed among 
 this rude, almost savage, people when missiona- 
 ries first settled among them. The place was both 
 a natural and a moral wilderness. Demons ruled 
 supreme. Devil-dances and horrible orgies were 
 of constant occurrence, accompanied by all the 
 wild absurdities of this degrading worship, while 
 ignorance and superstition and utter lawlessness 
 ruled among the people. But education and the 
 gospel have wrought great changes. The people 
 now admit that "the man with the Book" is 
 stronger than the devils. Still devil-dances fre- 
 quently take place, and there are a great many 
 demon shrines about all this neighborhood. Mr. 
 Emlyn told us an amusing story of the first ap- 
 pearance of a bicycle here. When the owner was 
 seen riding on the novel conveyance, which ran 
 along without a horse, the people set up a hue 
 and cry, declaring that this was a new kind of 
 demon, who had at length conquered the English- 
 man and had run off with him! 
 
NEYOOR. 
 
 PAREYCHALEY. 
 
 225 
 
 They believe also that the demoness of small- 
 pox goes about, especially frequenting the mar- 
 kets, because the people congregate there. With 
 her usual vindictiveness she smites every one she 
 comes near, scattering the seeds of the disease 
 from her finger-points, and thus infection spreads 
 and the people die. 
 
 After hearing all these stories of the ignorant 
 people, it was most cheering to go to the church 
 which stands near and find it crammed, as at 
 Neyoor and Nagercoil, with people rescued from 
 this dreadful superstition. Now, like him who 
 was possessed, they sat at the feet of Jesus, clothed 
 and in their right mind, ready to go and "tell 
 how great things the Lord had done for them" 
 and to seek to deliver others from this tyranny. 
 A great proportion of those present were Mr. Em- 
 lyn's workers and assistants, such as pastors, evan- 
 gelists, teachers, and catechists. There were a 
 good many women present, who sat on one side 
 by themselves. The whole congregation looked 
 most respectable and intelligent, and one could 
 hardly believe they had ever been so sunken and 
 degraded as the common heathen are now. The 
 transformative power of the gospel is indeed mar- 
 vellous, and education and training have done 
 wonders. 
 
 I ought to .say that all the converts arc not 
 
 ttccDM lu Huulhvrn luau. ] 
 
226 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 drawn from the Shanars. There were ten castes 
 represented in the congregation, but few are from 
 the higher castes, and only two Brahmans have 
 as yet joined the mission. The bulk of the Chris- 
 tians belong originally to the three divisions 
 among the Shanars ; next, to the Pariahs, who 
 are lower; and next, to the Pulayas, who, I think, 
 are the lowest of all. 
 
 One division of the Pariahs had come over to 
 Christianity in a body ; not a man is left in Hin- 
 dooism. One-fifth of the whole population of this 
 district is now Christian. My husband, as usual, 
 gave them a long, earnest address, which was lis- 
 tened to with profound attention. 
 
 After lunch the girls from the boarding-school 
 and some pleasing, nice-looking women gathered 
 in the veranda, with a few also from the day- 
 schools, and we had, as usual, a most interesting 
 time. Two or three of the pastors and catechists 
 also came and sat and talked with us. The chil- 
 dren look picturesque in their bright garments, the 
 prevailing hue of. which is red— all but the torn 
 ear, which is a terrible deformity. It is wonder- 
 ful to see the weights they carry in the poor, ill- 
 used member. But the missionaries are success- 
 fully battling with it among the converts. 
 
 Mr. Enilyn has thirty-nine schools in his dis- 
 trict, boys' and girls', in which, he rightly says, 
 
NEYOOR. PAREYCHALEY. 
 
 227 
 
 " there lies the hope for the future." In the even- 
 ing he and Dr. Mitchell walked down to the vil- 
 lage, which is nearly a mile off. But the people 
 did not receive them gladly. In the Brahman 
 quarter they were treated with much rudeness, 
 pelted with mud, and some stones were thrown. 
 One hit my husband on the back. They returned 
 through a heavy thunder- shower, which came 
 down with tropical vigor. But it had quite cleared 
 up again, with the air cooled and refreshed, when 
 at ten o'clock we had once more to set out on our 
 way. 
 
228 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 TREVANDRUM. 
 
 It was a pitch-dark night, with heavy masses 
 of thunder-cloud blackening the sky, when Mr. 
 Emlyn, lantern in hand, lighted us off the mis- 
 sion premises and launched us on the public road. 
 It felt a little eerie coming out of the brightness 
 of the pleasant house into the murk, escorted only 
 by the strange, unkempt charioteer, his long 
 naked legs dangling from his perch, and a lanky 
 lad who sat on the step behind as a sort of guide 
 and defence. But they knew the road, and it is 
 wonderful how safe night travelling is. And 
 now here is Trevandrum, another goal ; and here 
 is rest, at least for some days. We are now the 
 guests of Mr. and Mrs. Ross. He is principal of 
 the Maharajah's College here. When we came 
 in early this morning, travel-soiled and very 
 weary, Mr. Ross himself fished us out of our 
 dusty little den and gave us the welcome of an 
 old friend, though we had never actually met be- 
 fore. 
 
 Our excellent Joseph was here before us. He 
 had somehow caught the recalcitrant driver, took 
 
TREVANDRUM. 
 
 229 
 
 possession of the cart and bullocks for himself 
 and the "kit;" and here he was, in crisp, clean, 
 starched coat and newly-folded turban, ready to 
 unpack and do everything for us. 
 
 As soon as it was cool in the afternoon IMrs. 
 Ross drove us out. Trevandrum is a most beau- 
 tiful place, full of picturesqueness and all the 
 loveliness which knolls and hills and verdant 
 undulations, with some good buildings and the 
 richest tropical foliage, can give. 
 
 It is the capital of Travancore and the resi- 
 dence of His Highness the INIaharajah and his 
 court. The prince had succeeded to the sove- 
 reignty not long before our visit, and was, unfor- 
 tunately for us, absent, making his grand tour 
 through the great cities of India. The mahara- 
 jah seemed to be liked, had travelled a good deal, 
 knew English well, and was considered an en- 
 lightened man. But I am told that his first act 
 after his accession was to make additional grants 
 for the repair of all the heathen temples in the 
 State. He rejoiced in the grand-sounding title, 
 His Highness, Sri, Patmanabhi, Dasa, Vanji Ba- 
 larama Varmah Kulasahara Kridapadi Mannay 
 Sultan Maharajah Rama Rajah, Bahadur Sham- 
 shir Jang, Fellow of the Madras University, the 
 Maharajah of Travancore! 
 
 This city lies only two miles from the sea. It 
 
230 SCENES IX SOUTHERX INDIA. 
 
 is rather scattered, occupying a wide area, and is 
 intersected with broad, clean, well-kept roads 
 richly fringed with remarkably fine trees. There 
 is an observatory, a handsome building, which 
 stands in a commanding position ; a museum, 
 called the Xapier ^luseum, in the pretty park or 
 public gardens ; the college, and several other 
 good buildings. There is also the fort, which is 
 surrounded by lofty walls and guarded by senti- 
 nels, in which stand the palaces where all the 
 royal family reside, the Government offices also, 
 and a temple, which is peculiarly sacred and of 
 great antiquity. 
 
 The whole of this little strip of a kingdom, 
 fifty miles wide and only one hundred and seventy 
 miles long from the north point to the south, is 
 full of varied interest. It is also full of natural 
 loveliness. Every new bit we see seems more 
 beautiful than the last. It may well be called 
 the garden of India. But, oh, what a moral wil- 
 derness it seems to be! Nowhere else in India is 
 caste so strong or the lofty and tyrannical preten- 
 sions of the higher castes so insisted on and en- 
 forced as here. 
 
 Then to me, I confess, it is quite as despicable 
 and nearly as painful to contemplate the abject 
 servility, the slavishness of the lower castes to 
 the higher. One would not wonder so much at 
 
HINDOO BRAHMAN. 
 
TREVANDRUM. 
 
 231 
 
 the calm assumption of superiority by the Brah- 
 man ; but that the lower castes should have so 
 long submitted to the oppression and all the gall- 
 ing indignities so unsparingly heaped upon them 
 is certainly a perplexity. The "once born," the 
 "low born," the "polluted;" by these distin- 
 guishing epithets are the low castes designated. 
 And the curious thing is that in this caste system 
 there is "even in the lower depth a lower still." 
 Every low man has some one yet lower whom he 
 in turn can look down on and tyrannize over. 
 And apathy is not the word to describe the utter 
 carelessness and indifference there is among low 
 'and high alike as to the condition of others who 
 may not be "of their caste." This accursed caste 
 seems to convert the mild Hindoo into a very de- 
 mon of cruelty, if all the tales one hears be true, 
 especially of the times when slavery was allowed 
 by law. The ignorance, the superstition, the suf- 
 fering, the misery, the utter degradation, are in- 
 deed pitiable to behold. 
 
 I hear so much about it all and the marvellous 
 complexities of the laws and customs, especially 
 in connection with the law of inheritance, in this 
 strangest of communities, that my brain will 
 hardly take it all in. A Pulaya may not come 
 within ninety feet of the sacred person of a Brah- 
 man. From a Nair or Sudra, also, he must keep 
 
232 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA, 
 
 at a respectful distance. He must cover his 
 mouth, lest his breath shoiild taint the air ; he 
 must speak of himself as "your slave," never 
 daring to use the personal pronoun. He is not 
 allowed to clothe himself above the waist. 
 
 It is pleasant to turn one's gaze on the Chris- 
 tianized part of the population. The truth of the 
 gospel must come on these poor low-caste men 
 with a joyful surprise. That any of the rights of 
 men should ever by possibility belong to them 
 must seem too wonderful to be true. That God 
 should be "no respecter of persons," that he 
 should think of them as his children ; or that 
 Christ, having died for "all," should therefore 
 have died for them! — this wondrous story of re- 
 demption may well be "glad tidings of great 
 joy" to the down-trodden and despised of this 
 once so dark little kingdom. 
 
 Christianity always raises the low castes in 
 civilization, in character, in intelligence, in social 
 standing and position, and in every way. Of 
 course people cannot be freed all at once from the 
 consequences of long oppression, and the chains 
 and bonds of superstition cannot be knocked off 
 very easily. Apostasies have occurred ; sometimes, 
 when trouble has overtaken him, the poor igno- 
 rant convert has sought to propitiate the demon 
 once more. The Pulaya, and even the Pariah 
 
TREV'ANDRUM. 
 
 and the Shanar, have sometimes made unsatisfac- 
 tory Christians, no doubt ; and who would won- 
 der, after the ages of oppression they have under- 
 gone ? It may take a generation or two to make 
 strong, reliable men of these poor Pulayas, who 
 were formerly slaves and treated with incredible 
 cruelty and indignity; but when one looks at the 
 large, noble congregations of men and women, of 
 whom you "can take knowledge that they have 
 been with Jesus," one's heart is filled with thanks- 
 giving and joy ; and who can doubt but that the 
 gospel will everywhere triumph ? Well may the 
 missionaries take courage and feel that the hand 
 of God has been with them in their work and will 
 be so increasingly, according to his precious 
 promise. 
 
 The Nairs whom I have mentioned, though 
 not Brahmans, are a good caste. They form the 
 military class and are the aristocracy of the coun- 
 try. The reigning family are Nairs, although it 
 seeks often to raise itself by matrimonial alliances 
 with the Brahmans. This is still more systemat- 
 ically sought by the royal family at Cochin. Suc- 
 cession among the Nairs goes in the female line, 
 the nephew of the maharajah being the heir-ap- 
 parent; that is, the son of his sister, not his own 
 or his brother's. I believe this arises out of the 
 dreadful system of polyandry which was once 
 
234 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 largely practised here, tliough happily this is now 
 no longer the case. 
 
 It was a special pleasure to me to renew here 
 an acquaintance with Miss Blandford, of the Ze- 
 nana IMission, begun years ago in the house of our 
 dear friends the Robertsons in Bombay. ]\Iiss 
 Blandford is one of the ablest and most successful 
 of the zenana missionaries. She has labored for 
 many years with patience and faith and has done 
 a great and noble work in Trevandrum. She has 
 been especially associated with the ladies of the 
 court, and speaks of some of the princesses with 
 the greatest affection and respect. She herself 
 occupies a position of much and deserved influ- 
 ence among them, and indeed in the whole place, 
 both among the natives and Europeans. It is 
 wonderful what the influence of this one devoted 
 Christian woman has done for Travancore, this 
 stronghold of superstition and caste. 
 
 Monday, 27. 
 
 Early yesterday morning we attended service 
 in the mission church of the London ]\Iissionary 
 Society. As usual, there was a good, intelligent 
 congregation. Of course my husband preached. 
 This now is the Malayalim Mission, as this is the 
 Malayalim country, and the language therefore 
 has changed. In the farther South the language 
 was Tamil, which doubtless came in from beyond 
 
TREVANDRUM. 
 
 the ghats with Tamil immigrants; but Malayalim 
 and Tamil are closely allied and spring from the 
 same root as Canarese, Telugu, and Tulu, all the 
 five being Dravidian tongues. 
 
 The Rev. S. Mateer, well known as a mission- 
 ary and an author, has long been stationed here. 
 He has charge of Trevandrum and Quilon, but 
 was seeking health at home at the time of our 
 visit. Mr. Wilkinson and Mr. Knowles — who 
 has lately joined the mission — minister in the 
 gospel in his place. There are 39 congregations 
 in the district and about 5,000 Christians, with a 
 respectable army of teachers, village preachers, 
 pastors, and other agents. The work seems to be 
 making steady progress through God's blessing 
 here, as at the other stations, while among the 
 churches there is a great deal of spiritual life. 
 The meetings for prayer, Bible-classes, and Sun- 
 day-schools are full of heartiness, and the women 
 seem specially earnest. There is a prayer-meet- 
 ing among them entirely conducted by them- 
 selves. Then the women who can read go to the 
 houses of those who cannot and read to them and 
 have prayer, while others collect poor children to- 
 gether, give them food, and then teach them Bible 
 lessons. The people are liberal according to their 
 means and bring the first-fruits of their harvests 
 and other offerings to their chapels. Of course. 
 
236 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 there are disappointments and discourao;ements, 
 as I have said (where are these not to be found?), 
 and the missionaries have a hard battle to fight, 
 chiefly because of this abominable caste, which 
 stands in the way of all progress. 
 
 To-day our friend Miss Blandford came for us 
 early, and we started in her carriage to see some- 
 thing of her work. We first went by appointment 
 to the palace, entered the fort by a huge gateway, 
 and stood before the door of a handsome pile, 
 where we were received by a gentleman of the 
 court and straightway ushered into the presence 
 of the senior rani. She shook hands with us all, 
 my husband not excepted, and received us as any 
 English lady would receive her guests. Her 
 rooms are very pretty, nicely furnished, with 
 mirrors and a few pictures, one or two couches, 
 and a table with books, not at all crowded, nor 
 like an upholsterer's shop, which is the usual na- 
 tive taste. The floor is of cool, highly-polished 
 chunam, as smooth as marble and nearly as white, 
 and no carpet. My first thought was. What a con- 
 trast to the usual zenana, at least of Bengal, and 
 how striking the difference which this lady pre- 
 sents with all her surroundings to the poor faded 
 ranis in their dreary apartments at Tanjore ! 
 Here you see at once what education, refinement, 
 and intercourse with a cultivated Christian lady 
 
TREVANDRUM. 
 
 have accomplished. Miss Blandford has reason 
 to thank God for her successful work. All the 
 ladies are much attached to her personally, and 
 let us hope and pray that erelong the crowning 
 joy may be hers of seeing them heartily Christ's. 
 The rani is a most pleasing person, not very 
 young, with soft, retiring manners, perfect self- 
 possession, wonderfully fair for a Southern woman, 
 and having a gentle though intelligent expression 
 of countenance. Her hair was all gathered in a 
 great knot at one side, a Madras fashion and not a 
 becoming one, and she was simply though richly 
 attired, her chief ornament being the decoration 
 sent her by the queen. Of this she is immensely 
 proud, and displayed it with the utmost satisfac- 
 tion. She talks English wonderfully well, reads, 
 writes, draws, and employs herself as educated 
 women do. She has no children, and thus her 
 time is all her own. She does needlework beau- 
 tifully and showed us a group of flowers she was 
 embroidering on velvet; she also showed us the 
 rooms where she studies with Miss Blandford, in- 
 cluding a room for painting, an art in which she 
 delights. I noticed that in every apartment al- 
 most there hung a portrait of Ilcr Majesty tlie 
 Queen, of whom Her Highness speaks with the 
 greatest reverence and affection. She is not a 
 baptized Christian, but a Bible lay in more than 
 
238 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 one of the rooms and Miss Blandford reads it with 
 her constantly, and she seems to be at least intel- 
 lectually a believer. May her heart be opened to 
 the Ivord as was Lydia's ! 
 
 We were surprised to find that the man who 
 had received us at the door in the most unpre- 
 tending way and conducted us in was the rani's 
 husband, a small man about 40, without shoes or 
 stockings, and with a turban on his head. In this 
 strange country husbands seem to be only append- 
 ages. From what I have already said of the queer 
 laws of succession, you will see that the mahara- 
 jah's own son cannot succeed him. If he has a 
 brother, and he is in his right mind, he can and 
 does succeed. But the late maharajah had no 
 brother; he therefore adopted two nieces, his sis- 
 ter's children, who, by virtue of this adoption, be- 
 came ranis and are the two ladies we have been 
 visiting. They were married to two men chosen 
 for them; but, unfortunately, the senior rani has 
 no children, which must be a great grief to her. 
 This proved the wisdom of having adopted two 
 ladies instead of only one. The junior rani has 
 three sons now alive, and they are the heirs to 
 the throne ; so she is a person of .great conse- 
 quence. There was also a little princess born, at 
 which event there were great rejoicings. How 
 strange it is: here the joy is when a girl is born; 
 
TREVAXDRUM. 
 
 in Bengal and other parts such an event is con- 
 sidered a calamity and the attendants are afraid to 
 go and break the sad tidings to the expectant fa- 
 ther. But this poor little princess died, and a 
 terrible grief it was. In consequence there must 
 be another case of adopting, for none of the chil- 
 dren who may be born to any of the three lads, 
 who are themselves heirs, will be eligible for the 
 throne. Their father is dead, but their mother is 
 married again, and it does not matter how many 
 different fathers the various children have so long 
 as the mother is the same; and if she has a little 
 girl, her children will be heirs. 
 
 The senior rani and her husband are a most 
 happy and devoted couple. He incurred the dis- 
 pleasure somehow of the late maharajah and was 
 for years banished from the court. But his wife 
 was faithful to him, although they often tried to 
 induce her to marry some one else. On his death- 
 bed the old king relented, and the banished man 
 was permitted to return and join his wife; and 
 now they are living happily together, he sympa- 
 thizing with her in all her higher tastes. He 
 charged himself with Dr. IMitchell's entertain- 
 ment, who found him not only intelligent, but 
 really learned in Sanscrit and other lore. 
 
 We were not so interested in our visit to the 
 junior rani; and yet she has a strong, good face 
 
240 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 and was most courteous to us. Her eldest son, 
 who is the heir-apparent and is called the Elliah- 
 Rajah, has- an establishment to himself; but her 
 two younger boys were with her — nice little lads, 
 with dark, olive faces and rather heavy locks be- 
 neath small, richly-embroidered turbans. They 
 wore green satin coats, embroidered with gold, 
 red silk trousers, and no shoes or stockings. Their 
 little royal highnesses did everything for our en- 
 tertainment: they read an English book and reci- 
 ted a little; one then played on the vina^ a small 
 instrument like the guitar, while the other sang 
 a monotonous strain in Malayalim. As we took 
 leave their mother graciously presented me with 
 photographs of herself and her three sons. 
 
 In the afternoon we paid another royal visit, 
 this time to His Highness the heir-apparent or 
 Elliah-Rajah. A carriage was sent for us from 
 the palace, in which we drove a good way to a 
 kind of garden-house, where His Highness resides 
 just now. He is a mild, gentleman-like young 
 fellow, with pleasing, quiet manners, rather short, 
 and dressed in the simplest gray suit, English in 
 pattern, with a small white turban twisted round 
 his shapely head and very becoming to his dark 
 face. He talked English perfectly, with an ex- 
 cellent accent, and asked the most intelligent 
 questions on many subjects. He seemed greatly 
 
TREVANDRUM. 
 
 241 
 
 pleased to have my husband to talk to and begged 
 us to prolong our visit; but when the conversa- 
 tion turned on religion it was manifest that he is 
 a very orthodox Hindoo. All the reigning family 
 seem to be the same, the maharajah, perhaps, the 
 most so of all. He is bringing some holy water 
 from the Ganges, I see in a paper, to present as 
 an oblation to the idol in one of the most sacred 
 shrines in his dominions. It makes one's heart 
 heavy to think that so much boasted enlighten- 
 ment produces so little real light; but this only 
 comes with the gift of the Holy Ghost. The 
 young man was earnest, however, and thoughtful 
 in his talk, and said with feeling as well as polite- 
 ness, as we took leave of him, that he would never 
 forget this visit nor the food for thought the con- 
 versation had provided him. My husband next 
 visited the dewan, or prime minister; so I think 
 we have done our duty by the powers that be. 
 
 In the evening he gave an English lecture 
 under the auspices of the Young Men's Debating 
 Society, and the large hall at the college was 
 crowded in every part with both Europeans and 
 natives. He contrasted the condition of India 
 in 1838, when he first landed on its shores, 
 with what it is at the present time. He showed 
 the marvellous progress there has been, and the 
 change for the better in a hundred ways, giving 
 
 brrne* In Hoiilhom Inrlla. I 6 
 
242 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 as the causes for these the efforts of a humane 
 Government, education, missionary influence, the 
 spread of the precepts of Christianity, and so forth. 
 The subject was so interesting that he was lis- 
 tened to breathlessly; but as soon as he had fin- 
 ished, up started an irate Maratha Brahman, who 
 poured forth a deluge of talk in reply. He glori- 
 fied the Marathas and the Maratha dynasty, con- 
 tending that the good old times of the great Shi- 
 vaji were really the palmy days of India. Mrs. 
 Ross and I had to come away in the middle of 
 this tirade, as she was expecting friends to dinner; 
 but the gentlemen told me afterwards that my 
 husband had quietly answered, and in the judg- 
 ment of all the audience had fairly extinguished 
 him, at which there had been a good deal of 
 amusement. 
 
 Tuesday Evening. 
 
 The belligerent Maratha, to his honor be it 
 said, does not bear malice. He called early this 
 morning on Dr. Mitchell, coming in state in his 
 carriage, with scarlet-coated attendants, paid his 
 antagonist some high-flown compliments, had a 
 long, pleasant talk, and finally they parted the 
 best of friends. 
 
 The dewan has also called and is exceeding- 
 ly kind and gracious. It seems that he also is a 
 Maratha Brahman, able and enlightened, occupy- 
 
TREVANDRUM. 
 
 243 
 
 ing the most influential position after the mahara- 
 jah in the State. 
 
 We spent the whole of the next morning 
 after breakfast with Mr. Ross, in his college and 
 high school; a noble institution in every respect 
 it is. Mr. Ross has an able associate in Dr. Har- 
 vey and a good staff of native professors and 
 teachers. There is also a preparatory school for 
 which some additional premises are now being 
 built. The college buildings are very handsome, 
 and the rooms large, airy, and numerous. There 
 are about a thousand pupils, taking all the de- 
 partments, with one hundred and twenty in the 
 college. We went from class to class intensely 
 interested. The education is thorough and ex- 
 cellent, and the lads bright and evidently in 
 earnest over their studies; frank, too, and an- 
 swering with a pleasant readiness you' do not 
 always find, which makes the examination ani- 
 mated and interesting. But what certainly had 
 for us the chief interest and seemed very remarka- 
 ble was to hear the Bible taught in this institu- 
 tion; for you must remember it belongs to Gov- 
 ernment, and more than this, to a heathen Gov- 
 ernment. The Biblc-classcs were taught by a 
 Syrian named Luke, an intelligent man, who is a 
 master in the high school. Each class in the 
 school (not college) has Bible instruction for one 
 
244 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 hour every week ; and this has been the practice 
 since it was opened, I think in 1835. The first 
 master, IMr. Roberts, insisted on being allowed to 
 teach the Scriptures, and the point then yielded 
 has never since been interfered with. This man 
 Luke is a relative of the late Patriarch of the 
 Syrian Church, the Mar Athanasius whom we 
 knew in Bombay a great many years ago. 
 
 Our final school visit was, perhaps, the most 
 pleasing of all; it was to Miss Blandford's caste- 
 girls' school. As we drove into the compound 
 within the fort walls we saw quite close to the 
 school building the charred, blackened ruins of 
 a house, evidently the scene of a late fire. " How 
 did you possibly escape ?' ' we exclaimed. ' ' How, 
 indeed," said Miss Blandford, "but by the mer- 
 ciful interposition of God in direct answer to 
 prayer !" 
 
 It seems that some new Government official 
 had set his affections on this house, which Miss 
 Blandford had used for her school for years. She 
 was accordingly turned out and put to immense 
 inconvenience. The pupils were in sore grief on 
 account of their school, and especially for their 
 dear lady, who had difficulty in getting other 
 premises which were suitable. So they agreed 
 together — teacher and taught — to pray that the 
 old house might be given back. Then the fire 
 
TREVANDRUM. 
 
 occurred ; the one house was consumed, while its 
 close neighbor was spared. " Ah," said the chil- 
 dren and the people also, "God has taken care of 
 the schoolroom because it is yours. God intends 
 you to have it; you will get it back !" And sure 
 enough, it was given back; and here they are in- 
 stalled, and the school is more successful, more 
 crowded, and more a favorite than ever. 
 
 Miss Blandford's own class is composed of 
 quite grown-up girls, pleasing and intelligent, 
 giving very thoughtful answers to the questions 
 put. One question was, "What is better than 
 gold?" " Knowledge," at once answered a pleas- 
 ant-looking girl. "Is there anything better than 
 knowledge?" "Yes," answered another. "What 
 is it?" "A pure heart!" she said. 
 
 I am always in my element in a school like 
 this, and we stayed long, seeing all the depart- 
 ments thoroughly. Most of the children are dis- 
 figured by the elongated ear filled with massive 
 rings and weights, and also by the unbecoming 
 way in which they dress their hair. Some have 
 it gathered into an untidy bunch at the left side, 
 and others have the bunch on the forehead. They 
 all seem fond of Miss Blandford, and also of the 
 Miss Gahans, and to be on the most easy, familiar 
 footing with them; "much happier in school," 
 they say, " than anywhere else." One dear, wee 
 
246 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 child in the infant department I longed to take 
 away to exhibit. She is remarkably small, like 
 a doll, with innocent, big, grave eyes, which fix 
 on yours with the most questioning gaze. She 
 is wonderfully fair, being the child of a rich Nair 
 family, and richly dressed in a little crimson pet- 
 ticoat, starred with yellow, reaching to the prett}' 
 little feet, a bright green velvet bodice edged with 
 gold lace, &nd a beautiful jewel of pearls and 
 rubies on her forehead, the hair gathered to the 
 side. She sat quite happily on my lap, not in the 
 least afraid or shy. 
 
 There were about eighty pupils in all and 
 among them a few Syrian Christian girls. Many 
 seemed to be a good deal more than half Chris- 
 tian. They said they believed Christianity to be 
 true, but dared not profess it, as their parents 
 would be very angry and they would be taken 
 from school. This would be the saddest thing 
 that could happen to them. And is it not won- 
 derful that these proud, bigoted people should 
 permit their daughters to be so completely under 
 the influence of a Christian woman? Surely it is 
 the Lord's doing and shows a purpose of mercy 
 to the next generation in Travancore. 
 
THE BACKWATER. 
 
 247 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 THE BACKWATER. 
 
 MARCH I. 
 
 We are again afloat, this time literally so. It 
 is early morning, hardly more than dawn, and 
 we are sitting on a sort of sofa-chair, like a gar- 
 den-seat somewhat, on the roof of our boat — for 
 we are now shooting along through the lagoons 
 and lakes, filled from the numerous rivers and 
 streams of this well-watered land, which form the 
 famous Backwater of the Malabar coast. 
 
 These lagoons are connected by canals and 
 make a grand line of water communication, which 
 is of great commercial importance to all this re- 
 gion. This Backwater is always smooth and nav- 
 igable and is untouched by the storms of the 
 ocean, from which it is divided by high embank- 
 ments of sand and by a margin of cultivated and 
 well-wooded flat country, which is generally also 
 well populated. 
 
 The fresh morning air on the water is quite 
 enlivening. I could not remain any longer be- 
 low in the close little cabin, and so here wc arc 
 perched, enjoying the cool air, while we speed 
 
24S SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 along as fast as our sixteen oarsmen can take us. 
 The channel just now is narrow and the banks 
 full of beauty. We are going through a region 
 of picturesque loveliness too beautiful to describe. 
 There are woods and waters, lakes and fens, rip- 
 pling streams and sullen canals, stately palms and 
 mighty raonarchs of the forest, with a tangled 
 undergrowth of dazzling, varied, gleaming- shola. 
 or natural bush. There are tall, wavy grasses 
 and lowly mosses, gnarled old stems silvered with 
 lichen or clambered over and clothed with beauty 
 from a hundred different delicate fern -fronds; 
 there are climbers and trailers and parasites with- 
 out end, which throw their gigantic arms round 
 strong trees and then fling themselves about with 
 wanton frolic in loops and festoons and garlands 
 of endless beauty. In short, all along the banks 
 there is the luxuriant wealth of vegetation which 
 belongs to the tropics, bathed in the night-dews 
 and gleaming and glowing in the glorious sun- 
 shine of morning. 
 
 After dinner last night we took leave of our 
 most hospitable entertainers, who have simply 
 loaded us with kindness. Mr. Ross drove us 
 down about two miles in the sircar carriage — 
 which had been placed at our disposal from- the 
 palace all the time of our stay — to the little pier 
 at the head of the canal where our boat was 
 
THE BACKWATER 
 
 249 
 
 moored. The dewan has most considerately sent 
 a peon (or messenger), who is to accompany ns 
 and look after the supplies of boatmen — a needful 
 precaution. ]\Ir. Ross sends another, so we are 
 well off. It is indeed remarkable how carefully 
 and wisely our whole journey has been planned 
 for us all through, and our hearts continually 
 swell with gratitude to our gracious God, from 
 whose loving hands come all these benefits and 
 who makes our way so easy. 
 
 Joseph had our quilts and pillows spread on 
 the narrow benches in the tiny cabin, our stal- 
 wart, dusky boatmen were ready at their oars, 
 flags were flying ga}ly from stem and bow; so, 
 waving an adieu to our friends on the bank, we 
 struck out into the stream and were soon gliding 
 swiftly along in the gloom of the overarching 
 boughs and the thick, dark foliage which clothed 
 the banks on either side. The moon was shining, 
 but in a sky of very milky hue. Not a star was 
 there to be seen to cheer us on our way. The air 
 was damp and heavy and laden with the luscious 
 scent of a hundred jungle flowers. INIosquitoes 
 buzzed and cicadas chirruped, the men were very 
 noisy, and, tired though we were, to sleep was 
 out of the question. The kindly visitant strove 
 liard to come at our bidding, but the strife with 
 the harsh voices, especially of the noisy boatmen, 
 
SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 was quite an unequal one. When not chatting 
 and laughing they were singing and kept up a 
 monotonous chant often during the night. Coax- 
 ing and threatening were alike unavailing to keep 
 them quiet. 
 
 We changed the men ever}^ ten miles, when 
 we halted at some jetty, and then the hullabaloo 
 was inconceivable. They shouted and yelled and 
 woke the echoes, so as to rouse the village which 
 had to supply the next relay; and when the un- 
 willing, sleepy creatures came at the sircar's 
 summons the strife of tongues which ensued was 
 truly awful. So it was rather an unhappy night, 
 but the joy of the glorious morning far more than 
 compensated for the sorrows and weariness of the 
 troubled night. The rejoicing, masterful sup has 
 cleared the heavens of the cream-like veiling, or 
 "scuffed the clouds," as our skipper in the China 
 seas used to say; and how the beams dance and 
 sparkle in the tangle of green loveliness which 
 the banks present ! It is more beautiful every 
 moment. Some of the trees arc laden with strange 
 fruit and others are gorgeous with bright blos- 
 soms. Looking upward you see towering, soaring 
 cocoa palms. There are forests of them, their 
 straight gray stems rising to the height of a hun- 
 dred feet and more, crowned a-top with their 
 beautiful plume of waving fronds, in the midst 
 
TIIE BACKWATER. 25I 
 
 of which bright bits of bhie sky peep out here 
 and there. Then, if you keep your gaze to the 
 level of the water, there is the shola I spoke of — 
 an undergrowth of riches inexhaustible: ferns and 
 grasses and shrubbery, full of greens and browns 
 and brighter colors, and an infinite variety of leaf. 
 And now we come on some real English-looking 
 greensward. But here is Ouilon, where we are 
 to land until the heat of the day has moderated. 
 
 We landed at eight and were strolling up the 
 bank with our white umbrellas and sun-hats, hav- 
 ing sent off our attendants in search of the Trav- 
 ellers' Bungalow, when we met a tall, gentle- 
 manly man in a suit of white flannel, who politely 
 accosted us and with true Indian hospitality invi- 
 ted us to his house. This was Mr. Cameron, a 
 countryman, of course, and originally from Bade- 
 noch; so we have much in common and were fast 
 friends at once. We discovered afterwards that 
 our kind friend Mr. Ross had quietly given him 
 a hint to waylay us, if at home. He led us up 
 by a splendid avenue of feathery casuarina-trccs 
 away towards the sea, where high over the shore 
 his bungalow stands. It commands a magnificent 
 ocean view. On entering the house we found a 
 real bachelor abode. The vcranda-room present- 
 ed a delightful medley, the most prominent arti- 
 cles l)cing newspapers, books, and magazines, 
 
252 SCENES IX SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 with guns and sticks and fishing-tackle and other 
 gear of the sort in every corner. Beyond, in the 
 inner precincts, there shone a dazzling vision of 
 a daintily - spread breakfast -table, and beyond 
 again, in some cool, dark, remote recesses, were 
 to be found the crowning delight — the o-ood old 
 Indian bath-tub. To know the full luxury of a 
 bath you must come to India. Your " tub " here 
 means a reservoir full to the brim, standing over- 
 night on cool, wet slabs, into which you plunge 
 bodily and emerge a new being. After an expe- 
 rience like this we brought very appreciative 
 appetites to the fresh fish and rice and new-laid 
 efrfrs, with the various relishes, and then the 
 heaps of delicious fruit which always accompany 
 an Indian meal. 
 
 After this the gentlemen decreed that I was 
 to repose on one of the roomy couches, which I 
 did with a file of the "Inverness Courier" beside 
 me. A good hour's sleep followed to us all and 
 left us entirely refreshed. INIr. Carruthers, of 
 Inverness, a grandson of the famous old editor, 
 had joined us, and we had a charming day. 
 
 At three o'clock, after lunch, we again set 
 sail, our kind entertainer and Mr. Carruthers ac- 
 companying us to the boat. It was still very hot, 
 but we had a good distance with unknown perils 
 before us, aud the supplies of boatmen, to say the 
 
THE BACKWATER. 
 
 least, uncertain. Our sircar peon is very zealous, 
 but awakens my husband's wrath by the ready 
 knocks and cuffs he administers to the poor men 
 when they fail in their duty. This official, with 
 his belt and badge and coat of scarlet and gold 
 and very important ways, is quite a person of 
 authority among the poor people, who treat him 
 with a homage hardly less than they accord to 
 the sahib himself. Our own man generally de- 
 parts to the stern in a sort of dignified retirement, 
 feeling rather superseded. He has just produced, 
 however, a most excellent curry for our dinner, 
 how cooked in the hole in the bottom of the boat, 
 which is all there is for kitchen, I cannot make 
 out; but Indian servants have an amount of re- 
 source in this sort of thing which is peculiar to 
 themselves. 
 
 The boatmen under the darkening sky are as 
 like savages as if we were on Lake Tanganyika. 
 They are wonderfully black, with shock heads, or 
 the hair gathered into a fantastic knot over their 
 foreheads. They have no turbans and no clothes, 
 except the bit of rag roimd the loins. They chat- 
 ter immensely, though now they are singing a 
 dirge-like song. One man leads off, singing a 
 line, then the whole crew catch up the refrain, 
 repeating over and over the same words to the 
 same monotonous strain. Occasionally a clever 
 
254 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 one among them improvises, and he must say 
 something droll, for there is a general laugh. 
 Poor fellows ! they are very enduring and work 
 like machines at the oars hour after hour. Dr. 
 ^litchell often tried to talk to them; but, alas! 
 their language was so strange that there was little 
 mutual comprehension, and none of them could 
 read. 
 
 The evening is exquisite, much finer than last 
 night when we started. There is something in- 
 effably pensive and sweet in the scene and full of 
 restful peace as the golden radiance from the set- 
 ting sun subdues and melts into the silver\- light 
 of the moon, not yet quite full, which gleams 
 softly on the still water. The lagoon has greatly 
 widened and the palm-trees look solemn and spec- 
 tral on the distant banks. We have just been 
 saying that such an evening, succeeding the busy, 
 bustling, garish day, reminds one of the finished 
 life of a chastened, happy, useful Christian wait- 
 ing calmly in the light at eventide to be taken 
 home. 
 
 In the Boat, 3d March. 
 Here again is the moniing, full of brightness 
 and coolness and exuberance of life. Our men 
 are much quieter, so we have had some sleep. 
 Poor fellows ! they are too tired to be noisy. No 
 wonder, for the relays have failed utterly, not- 
 
THE BACKWATER. 255 
 
 withstanding the sircar's official zeal and author- 
 ity. One set has brought us some forty miles. 
 They go wearily as we wind through the great 
 waste of waters, and we have just told them to go 
 to the bank and halt a little. Numbers of palm- 
 climbers are at work, scrambling up the branch- 
 less stems like monkeys and bringing down little 
 pots full of the sweet, fresh juice of the wonder- 
 ful tree. We have treated our men to as much 
 of this refreshing beverage as they can drink, 
 with which they are greatly charmed, and they 
 will resume their oars with more spirit. This 
 • juice is called iadi, * and by evening it will have 
 fermented and become intoxicating; now it is a 
 most pleasant draught and very invigorating. 
 
 I never saw the phosphorescence on the water 
 so glorious as last night. I could hardly lie still 
 for gazing at its changeful beauty. The whole 
 surface of the water sometimes looked like a lake 
 of fire, and as the oars struck it broke into tiny 
 ripples and whirls of dancing light most curious 
 and beautiful. Sometimes we seemed to go over 
 waves and crests of light, and then again it broke 
 into curls and twists, as if snakes of fire were pur- 
 suing us. The sounds, too, were often peculiar. 
 Close to our stern or side there would be a sudden 
 splash and swirl, showing unmistakably the prcs- 
 * Hence, apparently, the word " toddy." 
 
256 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 ence of big creatures in the water, probably some 
 monster of the deep. One time, very incautious- 
 ly, I confess, I had my arm out of the window, 
 catching the cool water in my hand, when some- 
 thing slimy and cold struck it. I did not need a 
 second warning; and when we saw a dead alliga- 
 tor float past on his back this morning I thought 
 I would not be so venturesome again. 
 
 The scenery has changed a little from yester- 
 day. The lagoons are of wider expanse, though 
 the channels wind and alter constantly. Now 
 the water is a mile or two wide; a little while ago 
 it was only a few yards. Away on the horizon are 
 to be descried hills and dreamy, purple mountain 
 ranges; and on the other hand, though not always 
 visible, there is the blue expanse of ocean, but 
 entirely separated from us by the wall of sand I 
 have spoken of. 
 
 There is plenty of life about, which is gener- 
 ally the case in the morning. A good many bag- 
 gage and cargo boats are being towed or pushed 
 along by a pole, wielded generally by a solitary 
 man. Other boats of quaint construction there 
 are, though not many canoes or fishing- boats. 
 Often we came on tiny islands beautifully wood- 
 ed; and hamlets are frequent now as we get nearer 
 Cottayam, pretty little homesteads surrounded by 
 fences of palm branches. Pretty white churches 
 
THE BACKWATER. 
 
 too gleam amid the woods, always surmounted by 
 a cross. Most of these are Roman-catholic, but 
 some belong to the Syrian Christians who are 
 scattered over this coast. Often there is only a 
 cross, whitewashed and raised on a pedestal, and 
 occasionally ornamented with a wreath of flowers, 
 the offering of some devout and simple worship- 
 per. How sweet and pleasant a contrast to the 
 shrine for the worship of demons and how cheer- 
 ing! This looks almost like a Christian land. 
 And how fairylike is the scener>-: it puts us in 
 mind, with its many waters and tortuous chan- 
 nels winding among woods and islands and low 
 promontories and green flats, of the lovely St. 
 Lawrence and its thousand islands. We have 
 iust passed a tall stork standing on one leg in a 
 contemplative mood on a stem among some reeds; 
 and now, a little farther on, a huge crocodile lies 
 on a bit of greensward lazily sunning himself It 
 is now becoming too hot to sit on deck, and we 
 are glad to be approaching Cottayam, where we 
 sliall stay for a few days with Mr. and Mrs. Neve, 
 of the Church Missionary Society. 
 
 Vcnca In Hoalbem Inill*. 
 
 17 
 
258 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 COTTAYAM: its missions. the SYRIAN CHRIS- 
 TIANS OF MALABAR. 
 
 We did not arrive here until long past noon 
 yesterday. Our weary mariners went very deject- 
 edly for the last few hours, and we had not the 
 heart to urge them on, although the little cabin 
 was like an oven, in which we were being baked 
 and browned. Our clever cJmprassic^ however, 
 knocked up a kind of awning outside the door, 
 beneath which we sat on our quilts cross-legged, 
 like Oriental potentates, and endured the heat as 
 philosophically as we could. The servants had 
 all gone to sleep, as indeed had all nature. The 
 dear little birds, who had been carolling to us 
 from early dawn, found it too hot to sing any 
 more and hid away among the cool leaves, the 
 giant frogs forgot to croak, the shrill voices of the 
 untiring cicadas were happily silenced for a while, 
 and even the screeching, vivacious, tiresome green 
 paroquets ceased their restless flight and chatter 
 and left us for a while in peace. Only the beau- 
 tiful little silver fish, which darted about us in 
 shoals, looked cool and happy in the clear green 
 
cottayam: its missions. 
 
 259 
 
 depths of the still water. Voices which at mid- 
 night fill the jungle with their noisy chorus are 
 hushed at midday, and there was not a sound but 
 the splash of the lazy oar and the snores of the 
 sleeping men. The tyrant sun reigned supreme. 
 
 The water by-and-by broadened into a sea-like 
 expanse. They say the distant banks are splen- 
 did shikar grounds, where the tiger, elephant, and 
 leopard are to be found in the primeval forest, 
 and also plenty of smaller game. The head boat- 
 man pointed westward, where the large and im- 
 portant town of Allepy lay with its shipping and 
 lighthouse and large population, and soon there- 
 after we drew near to the palm-fringed shore at 
 Cottayam. 
 
 How glad we were to step on to the jetty and 
 take refuge from the intolerable blaze beneath the 
 dense, delicious shade of the glorious palm forests, 
 for here the tree abounds in every sort and size 
 and species. We sat, with a cool carpet of sward 
 beneath our feet and the grand canopy of plumes 
 over our heads, until the servant from the mis- 
 sion-house, who had watched for our arrival since 
 morning, went for the carriage to bring us up. 
 I\Ir. and Mrs. Neve had sent us a most kind invi- 
 tation, and we were entertained by them, as we 
 have been by missionaries of all societies, in the 
 heartiest and warmest way. 
 
26o SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 We have now left the mission fields of the 
 London Missionary- Society behind us in the 
 South, and have reached the borders of those oc- 
 cupied by the Church ^Missionary Society. It 
 began its labors in the jMalayalim country' in 
 1816, at the invitation of "the good resident," 
 Col., afterwards Gen., IMunro, and certainly there 
 is no region more interesting, from a mission- 
 ary point of view, than this in all India. The 
 circumstances which give special interest to this 
 mission are, first, the existence here still of the 
 ancient Syrian Church of Malabar, the history of 
 which has been so remarkable and has so largely 
 stirred the hearts of Christian people everywhere; 
 and next, the existence of a colony of Jews, who 
 are said to have made their way to India in the 
 first century after the destruction of the second 
 temple. These Jews, however, are now to be 
 found chiefly, or almost solely, in Cochin. The 
 Syrian Christians are all about us here and around 
 Cottayam. 
 
 Very little was known about the Syrian Church 
 of Malabar until after 1498, when the Portuguese 
 landed on this coast. Vasco de Gama and his 
 people were astonished to find a colony of fellow- 
 Christians before them in heathen India, who in 
 their turn were glad to welcome the new-comers, 
 so much more like themselves than the poor 
 
COTTAYAM: ITS MISSIONS. 
 
 261 
 
 heathen round them. Three centuries later the 
 English occupied Malabar; and it was soon after 
 this that Dr. C. Buchanan, then a chaplain in 
 Bengal, visited this ancient church and reported 
 on its condition. He carried out his inquiry in 
 1806; and Col. Macaulay, who was then British 
 resident in Travancore, took the liveliest interest 
 in the matter and aided him in ever}' possible 
 way. The result was the establishment in 1816 
 of a mission under the auspices of the Church 
 Missionary Society, which has worked in the dis- 
 trict ever since, chiefly among the Syrian Chris- 
 tians, but also among the heathen. 
 
 Is it not a most curious and striking fact that 
 these two communities, one of God's ancient peo- 
 ple and this wonderful old Christian church, 
 should have existed here side by side during all 
 these ages — that a lamp of Bible truth, a double 
 light, one might say, though a poor and feeble 
 one enough, should have burned, however faintly, 
 and have been kept alive amid ever>' change and 
 trouble until now, when, eighteen centuries later, 
 it is glimmering still in the midst of the deep 
 darkness of the surrounding heathenism ?* 
 
 • I find the following: in a sketch of the Syrian Christian 
 Church by the Rev. R. H. Maddox, of the Church Missionary 
 Society: "The presence of these two large and influential 
 communities (the Jews and Christians) in the country, linked 
 by no common tie, yet witnesses together through strange 
 
262 
 
 SCENES IX SOUTHERN- INDIA. 
 
 Happily now there are other lamps alight in 
 the mission stations which have been planted by 
 the different societies like lighthouses alons^ the 
 coast Let us hope and pray and work until this 
 old church is thoroughly re\-ived and God's 
 ancient people also are brought in and led to 
 acknowledge him who with such infinite gra- 
 ciousness has said, ' ' I am the Lord thy Saviour 
 and thy Redeemer, the Mighty One of Jacob." 
 
 As to the origin of the Syrian Christians in 
 Malabar the missionaries generally seem to accept 
 the usual explanation given, namely, that they 
 are the descendants of those converted under the 
 preaching of the apostle Thomas in India. This 
 is the oldest tradition and seems to be the most 
 accredited. At all events they themselves love 
 to speak of St Thomas as the founder of their 
 church. 
 
 From where I sit I can see an old gray S>Tian 
 church peeping out from amid the woods. It is 
 indeed a new feature in an Indian landscape, 
 these weather-beaten moss-marked, often dilapi- 
 dated places for Christian worship one comes 
 upon here. There is the modest gray cross rising 
 above the trees and pointing, like a finger of 
 
 vicissitudes for eighteen centuries to the truth of God's reve- 
 lation in the midst of heathenism, is a startling as well as 
 deeply interesting phenomenon in the history- of the church 
 of God." 
 
COTTAYAM: ITS MISSIONS. 
 
 263 
 
 hope, towards heaven, surely suggestive of some- 
 thing bright and blissful in the future. These 
 poor Christians are, no doubt, dark and ignorant 
 enough. They were in a very sunken and de- 
 graded condition when the missionaries landed in 
 the midst of them some seventy years ago, and 
 still, I am afraid, they are low spiritually and the 
 things of God among them ofttimes ready to die. 
 But God has not removed their candlestick out of 
 its place; the one living and true God has been 
 worshipped in their simple churches and he has 
 preserved this singular people as witnesses for 
 himself in a region where it may be said "Satan's 
 seat is" — where heathenism in some of its foulest 
 and most revolting aspects abounds. Our faith, 
 then, should be equal to the certain hope and 
 belief that a good and glorious day of grace is yet 
 in store for them, and that the little oasis in this 
 great moral wilderness will spread until it covers 
 this part of India as with a garden of the Lord. 
 
 We have had quite a touching leave-taking 
 from our boatmen, poor fellows ! who accompa- 
 nied us to the mission-house, each carrying some- 
 thing of our effects. We retain our boat and also 
 the magnificent embodiment of authority, our 
 scarlet-belted chuprassie^ but we have dismissed 
 tlie men meanwhile. They have been made 
 happy by liberal backsluisli, inchulin,^ a kid for 
 
264 
 
 SCENES IX SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 their supper with which to make inerr\- and re- 
 cruit their exhausted energies. The salams, down 
 to our yery feet, have been gone through and they 
 are off in high glee, chattering at the top of their 
 voices. They look ver\' much like savages. Not 
 one of them can read, and, indeed, many of the 
 people look wonderfully wild and barbaric for a 
 pro\-ince which boasts of schools and colleges and 
 English-speaking officials and an enlightened 
 Government 
 
 This is a charming mission-house, and our 
 kind host and hostess are just as charming as 
 their dwelling. Mr. Neve is principal of the 
 well-known Church Missionar\- College of Cotta- 
 yam, and along with pressing and varied work 
 into which both he and his wife were at once 
 thrown on their arrival they have to study the 
 hard Malayalim tongue. 
 
 Near the house and in the same compound 
 stands the college, a large building in which 
 there is accommodation for the boarding of many 
 of the pupils. It is a ven,- important institution, 
 there being no other of the kind nearer than 
 Trevandnim on the one hand and Cochin on the 
 other. Mr. Neve's sphere is a most influential 
 and important one, as it bears so much on the na- 
 tive Christian community-, the pastors and other 
 agents all being educated and trained within its 
 
cottayam: its missions. 
 
 265 
 
 walls. It also exercises a very elevating influ- 
 ence on the Syrian church. At right angles to 
 the house there is the college chapel, a beautiful 
 little building, the most church-like, I think, I 
 have seen in India. It is in the Old English 
 style, with real Gothic windows — not the usual 
 venetian-blind pattern which the necessities of 
 climate have made nearly universal. Inside it is 
 very pretty, with stalls and pews parallel to the 
 walls made of dark wood, the proper hue which 
 generally comes from age. It was very pleasant 
 to hear the bell sounding out for evening service, 
 and now the voices of the lads came to me, led by 
 a harmonium, in the familiar strains of the Even- 
 ing Hymn. 
 
 The other missionary now at this station is 
 Mr. Painter, who occupies a mission-house stand- 
 ing on a richly-wooded undulatioti across a valley 
 just opposite. This valley is turned into a lake, 
 or lagoon, in the monsoon, when the country is 
 more or less flooded, and the members of the mis- 
 sion go to each other's houses in boats. 
 
 We walked over in the cool of the evening 
 yesterday to another compound, where a remark- 
 able old lady resides, who received us literally 
 with open arms. This is the venerable Mrs. 
 Baker, widow of the Rev. H. Baker, who was 
 one of the first missionaries to Cottayam. His 
 
266 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 noble wife worked by his side till his death, in 
 1 866, and happily she is spared to work still. 
 She opened a boarding-school for girls in 1818, 
 the year after their arrival, and, wonderful to say, 
 it not only exists still, but she conducts it. We 
 saw it to-day. There are eighty pupils, and the 
 dear old lady looked busy and happy among her 
 children. She is quite deaf, but she manages her 
 large family marvellously, and the girls are de- 
 voted to her and quite under her control. Many 
 of the matrons in the native Christian homes and 
 the nicer women among the Syrian Christians 
 were trained by Mrs. Baker. Indeed, her steady, 
 loving work of more than sixty years has had a 
 most beneficial influence in elevating the women 
 of the district generally. When I suggested that 
 she ought now to rest, she said, with her brave 
 missionary spirit, "When I cannot have my dear 
 girls about me I '11 lie down and die." 
 
 There is another admirable girls' boarding- 
 school taught and superintended by Mrs. Henry 
 Baker and her daughters. It has about a hun- 
 dred and fifty pupils, who all live on the prem- 
 ises, and is one of the best conducted and most 
 successful institutions of the kind we have seen. 
 This lady is also a widow. Her husband, the 
 Rev. Henry Baker, son of the old lady, whose 
 death a few years ago was a great loss to the mis- 
 
cottayam: its missions. 
 
 267 
 
 sion, was an able and influential man and is 
 known chiefly as having originated mission work 
 among- an interesting aboriginal people, the Hill 
 Arrians. There were some two thousand con- 
 verts gathered in from among them before his 
 death, in 1878. 
 
 Mrs. Neve has thrown herself into work for 
 the female children of heathen families as the 
 other ladies work among the Christians, and al- 
 ready she has organized four day-schools for them. 
 She had the little things gathered into the veran- 
 da, that we might see them and be saved a walk 
 in the sun, and it was a very pretty sight. They 
 looked very different in feature and dress from 
 the Christians, both Syrians and others; but they 
 have bonnie little intensely black faces, with 
 bright eyes and torn ears and large chignons, and 
 looked on the strangers with awed curiosity. 
 They read the Bible and answered remarkably 
 well, and I could not but rejoice heartily that 
 Mrs. Neve has been led to take up this branch of 
 female work, it is of so much importance to get 
 at the girls, the children of the heathen around. 
 May the Master aid and bless her efforts ! 
 
 Our visit would be delightful but for this con- 
 suming heat. It daily becomes more trying, and, 
 along with the sight-seeing, taxes the energies a 
 good deal. There is a delicious sea-brccxc during 
 
268 
 
 SCENES IX SOUTHERN INDIA, 
 
 the afternoon, but it dies down in the evening 
 and you begin to pant again. Yesterday Mr. 
 Neve took us to the library and over the college, 
 where my husband spent most of the morning. 
 There are 270 lads, most of whom are Christians 
 and are educated up to the matriculation stand- 
 ard. I was much attracted by the fine, intelli- 
 gent teachers, who were themselves trained in 
 the college and are, some of them, Syrian Chris- 
 tians. As usual, Dr. Mitchell questioned the 
 classes and gave an address. 
 
 The farther we penetrate into this wonderful 
 little kingdom of the South the more are we 
 struck with the exuberance and beauty of the 
 vegetation. Nature indeed has been prodigal of 
 her favors. On this coast the palm family is 
 specially numerous and varied. The graceful 
 areca and betel-nut abound, also the talipot, and 
 the cocoa palm soars over one's head endlessly. 
 Then there are the beautiful pepper-trees and 
 other spices; also the bamboo, mimosa, casuarina, 
 and many others, magnificent banyans, often or- 
 namented with lovely orchids, tamarinds and 
 mangoes and plantains, with plenty of the more 
 useful woods, such as jack and blackwood and 
 sandalwood and teak. Different fruits you see 
 hanging from a hundred trees. The flowering 
 shrubs are gorgeous, and so arc the endless trailers 
 
cottayam: its missions. 
 
 269 
 
 and creepers, while always there is the mar\-ellous 
 variety of foliage and the luxuriant wealth of 
 green. The fine old Portuguese commanders 
 knew what they were about when they chose 
 beautiful and prosperous Malabar for their land- 
 ing-place! If it had only the beauties of holiness 
 in equal measure with its natural beauties it 
 would indeed be a delightsome land. 
 
 The people seem well-to-do and comfortable, 
 though certainly they do not need much. You 
 see a little clearing near the water-edge; a peas- 
 ant, with only his cloth for clothing, builds his 
 hut of wood and clay there, roofs it and fences it 
 round with dried palm branches; he owns proba- 
 bly a few of these useful trees, which are his rev- 
 enue and which, with his little rice-fields and, 
 perhaps, a few sheep or cattle, provide him and 
 his family with everything needful for their life. 
 He eats and drinks and sleeps and marries his 
 sons and daughters, and he wants nothing more. 
 It looks a peaceful picture. But there is another 
 side to it. 
 
 My friend and I placed ourselves on the bridge 
 by the jetty to wait, and I think we sat there for 
 two hours, for the interest of their visit and the 
 tortuosities of the stream had alike detained the 
 gentlemen. But we kept a most entertaining 
 vigil. It was a splendid chance for me to watch 
 
270 SCENES IN- SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 the people and their doings. As it grew dusk 
 numbers came down to bathe and others to wa.sh 
 their cloths (not clothes). They stood up to their 
 waists in the water and chatted with their neigh- 
 bors or muttered their evening prayers. They 
 had no clothing to speak of, neither men nor wo- 
 men, except the universal cloth I have spoken of, 
 which is a stripe of dirty yellow cotton wound 
 about the loins, either hanging down or caught 
 up between the legs, according to the caste. 
 
 There were many passers-by on the bridge. I 
 wished that I could sketch or photograph some of 
 the groups. All were foot-passengers, no carts 
 and bullocks, such as are usually seen on Indian 
 roads. There were coolies carr\-ing the most pic- 
 turesque loads on their heads, such as bunches of 
 cocoanuts tied together by the fibre, or rough, red 
 pottery in the loveliest shapes, or a pot full of the 
 frothy juice of the cocoa palm fresh drawn from 
 the tree. 
 
 One or two young women passed to or from 
 the well with water-pots poised on their heads. 
 These they carried with wonderful grace, though 
 the heads were sorely disfigured by a huge sort of 
 chignon, into which the wealth of black hair was 
 gathered at the front or side. The better-class 
 women are erect, lithe, and often slim, the skin 
 of a darker hue than in the West and North, the 
 
cottayam: its missions. 271 
 
 deformities being this unbecoming mode in hair- 
 dressing, the torn lobe of the ear, and a very in- 
 adequate amount of clothing. 
 
 Soon there came a group of travellers by: an 
 old, tottering woman, wrapped and enveloped in 
 a red cloth, and carefully led by a bonnie little 
 girl; a younger woman, much ornamented, carr>'- 
 ing a screaming infant on her hip; a man with a 
 few brass drinking-vessels hanging from his cloth 
 over his back, and a betel box, a roll of matting — 
 probably their bedding — on his head, and a small 
 naked boy hanging on to his disengaged hand. 
 They looked wayworn and tired and went wearily 
 in single file. What was my surprise to see them 
 hastily step aside, draw up in a line against the 
 parapet, and bow in lowly obeisance as a fat, oily 
 man, with a brick-dust hue of skin, a topknot on 
 his otherwise shaven head instead of turban, and 
 a palm leaf umbrella in his hand, sauntered slow- 
 ly by. This was a lordly Brahman; but he con- 
 descended to bestow his benediction on the hum- 
 ble group as he passed on his way. 
 
 A young man in a tidy white starched coat, 
 whom Mrs. Neve knew, had joined us and was 
 XCT)' good in answering my questions. He said 
 the wayfarers were a Sudra or Nair family, prob- 
 ably respectable, well-to-do people, going to their 
 home. The Nairs arc always profoundly respect- 
 
272 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 ful to the Brahmans, though often a good deal 
 jealous of them. 
 
 Presently a number of people gathered at one 
 end of the bridge and stuck there for some reason 
 or other. There was much shouting and halloa- 
 ing, and we found that another Brahman, one of 
 the Namburi caste, and therefore doubly sacred, 
 was about to cross the road. The Namburis are 
 the special priests of the IMalayalim country and 
 specially holy, pretentious, and domineering to 
 all other castes. Their laws are inconceivably 
 absurd and strange, especially regarding marriage 
 aud inheritance, and their customs generally the 
 same, though they have the redeeming point of 
 being charitable and hospitable to strangers, if 
 only these strangers are Brahmans. 
 
 Well, this sacred personage had to cross the 
 bridge, and the unfortunates at the other side were 
 poor Pulayas, the lowest of the low, hardly a caste 
 at all, from among whom the slaves usually were 
 drawn. Rigid law in this province forbids such 
 inferior creatures to come within 90 feet of the 
 high-born, holy Namburi. In former days any 
 infringement of this rule was punishable by death. 
 Even a Nair would cut a low-caste man down if 
 he approached nearer than the limits allowed by 
 law. Until within late years, indeed, the low 
 Pulayas were not allowed to use the public roads 
 
cottayam: its missions. 
 
 273 
 
 at all. They had to go through the jungles to 
 their work, and when they labored in the rice- 
 fields their masters and owners had to shout their 
 orders from a safe distance, to which pollution 
 could not travel. 
 
 Watching with intense eagerness what would 
 happen as the halloaing continued, we saw the 
 waiting group break and scatter and scamper off, 
 it did not matter where, as if a mad dog had got 
 into the midst of them. Some scrambled down 
 the bank, some flew off in the direction whence 
 they had come, some vanished out of sight into 
 the water, but all disappeared in a twinkling. 
 And then the miserable man who caused it all 
 went loftily on his way. It would have been un- 
 speakably ludicrous if it had not been so prepos- 
 terous and provoking. Fancy all these people 
 detained and put out of their way to serve no end 
 at all, though, of course, the man was not so much 
 the transgressor as his system. 
 
 I must allow that the Pulayas do look low 
 enough. Their physique is not grand. They 
 are short and slight, with low foreheads, a mean 
 cast of feature, exceptionally dark in complexion, 
 and often with a depressed, vacant expression on 
 their very plain faces. But who can wonder at 
 this after the long ages of oppression they have 
 worn through? The women decorate themselves 
 
 Srrnpii In <<..ull.oin Inilln. jg 
 
274 
 
 SCENES IX SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 with quantities of beads and strings of cowries. 
 They also have bangles and other ornaments 
 made of brass and lead, for they are not allowed 
 to wear gold or silver. They live in the most 
 miserable huts, too bad for cattle, made of sticks 
 and cocoa branches, and generally built near the 
 paddy-fields where they work. Slavery- is abol- 
 ished by law and proclamation ; but, all the same, 
 slaver}- exists still. These poor creatures are 
 slaves now, so we are assured, and are often 
 bought and sold with the land. These low castes 
 are not allowed to enter a shop. They supply 
 their wants by putting their money down outside; 
 they then retire the prescribed distance — for hap- 
 pily the money does not carr\- pollution — and 
 shout their needs to the shopman. He takes up 
 the money, lays the articles in its place, and de- 
 parts out of harm's way, while the poor, deluded 
 creatures take their goods and go contentedly off. 
 Mr. Einlyn, of Pareychaley, told us so great was 
 the ignorance formerlv among the slave tribes 
 that they believed the missionaries were sent by 
 Government to capture them in order that they 
 might be given as food to gold-producing rats! 
 Nothing is too absurd or monstrous for these poox 
 people to believe. 
 
 And yet they can be raised by the power of 
 the gospel. Moreover, the gospel is the only 
 
cottayam: its missions. 
 
 275 
 
 power which has ever been able to raise them iu 
 the least from the depth of their ignorance and 
 degradation. A great deal of work has been done 
 among them and numbers have become Chris- 
 tians. Indeed, we are assured that the whole 
 Pulaya caste would come over to Christianity if 
 there were only people enough to teach them. It 
 is natural that they should easily become con- 
 verts, for they have nothing to lose and much to 
 gain. They see the advantage the new faith 
 brings in every way to those who embrace it. 
 They rise at once in the social scale, have more 
 privileges, better houses, more comforts, and be- 
 come quite respectable people. Their children 
 are received in all the mission-schools, education 
 advances, and it has been proved beyond dispute 
 that these outcasts are quite capable of being 
 turned into able, intelligent, and useful citizens. 
 Many of them are sincere and earnest and work as 
 catechists among their people. What a wonder- 
 ful and glorious change this mighty gospel effects! 
 To see these poor oppressed tribes being brought 
 in, worshipping God in the simple little churches 
 which are springing up among the jungles, in- 
 stead of practising the frightful rites of their ter- 
 rible superstitions, and then to see them consid- 
 ered and treated as men, may well quicken faith 
 and set one's heart on fire with the longing that 
 
276 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 the work should be done thoroughly and adequate- 
 ly and at once. And there is hope in every effort 
 put forth. The missionaries declare that the peo- 
 ple among whom the greatest progress has been 
 made in late years are just these poor outcast 
 slaves. 
 
 It is a striking fact too that their masters often 
 approve of their becoming Christians. Why? 
 Because they thus become better servants. They 
 do not steal and cheat and lie as they used to do. 
 This is a grand testimony to the moral character 
 of these simple Christians. When shall we see 
 both master and slave brought in together? the 
 former saying with the prophet, " Have we not 
 all one Father? Hath not one God created us? 
 Why should we deal treacherously every man 
 against his brother ?" 
 
 But I have wandered far from the bridge, as I 
 did that night in my thoughts. Long after the 
 sun went down we sat there, gazing over the 
 waters and woods into the fading light and the 
 silence which soon fell. Now and then a broad- 
 winged bird, probably a kingfisher, would rise 
 from some thicket, whirl round and round over- 
 head, .soar higher towards the heavens, until for a 
 moment there seemed only a speck against the 
 sky, and then suddenly dart down among the 
 sedges, find there, I supix).se, what he had come 
 
 I 
 I 
 
COTTAYAM: ITS MISSIONS. 277 
 
 for, spread wing again, and disappear among the 
 branches. It did not grow quite dark. The 
 evening star rode high, not like a point, but a 
 great orb, sending a broad gleam of light across 
 the calm lagoon. Sirius with his changeful spar- 
 kle hung in marvellous brilliance over us; and 
 soon the moon, now near its full, rose like a ball 
 of gold and sent a flood of lovely softened radi- 
 ance over the exquisite scene. By-and-by we 
 heard in the stillness the plash, plash of the oar; 
 our two gentlemen stepped ashore and we saun- 
 tered home, carrying many a picture and mem- 
 ory in our heart which will not easily be effaced. 
 
2/8 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 COTTAYAM: SUNDAY SERVICES AMONG THE 
 SYRIAN CHRISTIANS. 
 
 My husband is certainly much in his element 
 here, having many opportunities of declaring his 
 message. He "said a few words," as he express- 
 es it, last night to the pastors; this morning 
 "spoke a little" to the theological students; at 
 one o'clock he gave a lecture to the Young Men's 
 Christian Association; and in the afternoon he 
 had the honor of presiding at the Annual Exhi- 
 bition of the college. He gave away the prizes 
 and then delivered an address to the lads. An 
 exceedingly pretty and successful display it was. 
 The company included the whole station, and the 
 place was gayly and prettily decorated by the 
 boys. But the heat ! Who shall tell it? To say 
 that we are in a perpetual vapor-bath is a mild 
 description of what it is now. 
 
 Notwithstanding our vigils last night, we 
 were up betimes this morning. Dr. Mitchell 
 went oflf with Mr. Painter to visit some of the 
 Syrian churches; he also saw the Syrian College, 
 empty now and silent, and then the jirinting- 
 
COTTAYAM: the SYRIAN CHRISTIANS. 279 
 
 press, a useful handmaid to the mission, whence 
 a missionary magazine issues monthly and many 
 useful publications. Finally he accompanied 
 Mr. Painter to his Divinity Hall, as we should 
 style it, where he teaches systematic theology to 
 the aspirants for the ministry and trains school- 
 masters and evangelists. Afterwards my hus- 
 band spent a most interesting hour talking to the 
 students and getting an insight into their minds 
 and feelings in view of their future solemn work, 
 and then gave them an address. There were 
 some vSyrians and a few outsiders present. 
 
 I. had joined him and we breakfasted with the 
 Painters in their pretty mission - house. I was 
 charmed with it and the views of the wooded, 
 undulating country below, where one or two 
 quaint old Syrian churches rose picturesquely 
 among the trees. There was also the native 
 Christian church, with its handsome tower, which 
 put me in mind of a pretty village church at 
 home. 
 
 I recall this morning now with peculiarly sad 
 and tender recollection. Very soon after our visit 
 a mournfully dark shadow fell across the sunshine 
 of this happy home. A little child was welcomed 
 to it to increase its joy, and then the beautiful 
 young wife and mother was suddenly taken away 
 to the yet better home in the mansions in the 
 
28o SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 skies. It was one of those inexpressibly sorrowful 
 events which are so mysterious also, that, not 
 being able to comprehend, we must just meekly 
 bow before and accept as simply our Father's 
 will. 
 
 " Thy way, not mine, O Lord, 
 However dark it be ; 
 Lead me by thine own hand. 
 Choose out the path for me. 
 
 ****** 
 
 " Take thou my cup, and it 
 With joy or sorrow fill. 
 As best to thee may seem ; 
 Choose thou my good and ill." 
 
 Mr. Painter had brought his young wife — a 
 sister of his fellow-missionary Mr. Neve — from 
 England a few months before. There was some- 
 thing peculiarly attractive about her, and she 
 seemed to us most admirably fitted both by na- 
 ture and grace for the position she was chosen to 
 fill. How vividly I can recall her appearance 
 that morning as she showed me her house and 
 school and spoke so brightly of all the work she 
 longed and hoped to do, and also of the sweet hope 
 which had come into her own life! No thought 
 of early death or a luome desolated or work un- 
 done or a vacant place could ever have come into 
 one's mind in connection with one so full of life 
 and joy and hope as she was. Alas, how true it 
 
COTTAYAM: TIIK SYRIAN CHRISTIANS. 281 
 
 proved in her case that at the brightest "our life 
 is but a breath!" She only tasted the sweet joys 
 of motherhood, and then, 
 
 " Not in darkness, but in sunshine, 
 Like a star she passed awaj-.'* 
 
 Sunday, as usual, was full of interest and full 
 of work. We started early to attend some of the 
 services in the Syrian churches, to which we had 
 been looking forward with great expectation. In- 
 deed, it had been a dream of mine to visit these 
 Christians of St. Thomas, as they call themselves, 
 ever since ISIar Athanasius, the late Patriarch, 
 used to sit in our drawing-room in Bombay, many 
 years ago, and tell us about his people. I well 
 remember him, a man of rather low stature, with 
 a clever, keen face, over which sat a round, low, 
 black, turban-sort of hat, his whole person being 
 enveloped in a long, loose, black gown. He was 
 an able, well-educated man who talked intelli- 
 gently and well. I believe he was also earnest 
 and desirous of leading his church in the direction 
 of evangelical truth. He was consecrated Patri- 
 arch at Antioch. 
 
 Under him the church flourished. The peo- 
 ple became better educated, and progress and en- 
 lightenment would have been secured but for the 
 strong conservative party who opposed him. I 
 need not follow all the disputes which arose. 
 
2S2 SCENES IX SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 Notwithstanding them all, however, the spirit of 
 reform grew until his death, which took place 
 four years ago. Since then the rival party — that 
 opposed to reform — has become much stronger, 
 and now party-spirit and division are more rife 
 til an ever. 
 
 While the Portuguese were in power in this 
 part of India the ecclesiastics of the Romish 
 Chu:ch tried hard to detach the Syrians from 
 their own Eastern Church and bring them into 
 subjection to Rome. They did not scruple to 
 bring all the terrors of the Inquisition, then es- 
 tablished at Goa, to aid them in their purpose ; 
 and, of course, they were so far successful. But 
 as soon as the Dutch took possession of Malabar 
 they ordered the Jesuits and priests out of the 
 country. Then the English came, and they soon 
 gave full liberty to the Syrian Christians, who all 
 through had continued loyally and devotedly at- 
 tached to their own church, and they hailed their 
 emancipation from the tyranny of Rome with 
 great joy. 
 
 After the Church Missionary Society had com- 
 menced its work on this coast its policy was to 
 foster internal reform in the Syrian Church. It 
 did not seek to draw converts from it, but to re- 
 form the whole body. However, the result wa."? 
 not satisfactory ; and now the missionaries have 
 
cottayam: the Syrian christians. 283 
 
 altered their plan, and they receive into the An- 
 glican Church any who may wish to enter it. So 
 we may say there are now three parties: the re- 
 formers, the non-reformers, and the converts who 
 have come out of both parties and have joined 
 the mission of the Church of England. I ought 
 to have said that the Syrians in Travancore and 
 Cochin who have not submitted to Rome number 
 fully 300.000.* The whole country is dotted 
 over with schools and visited by evangelists and 
 preachers; and may we not hope, if God's people 
 pray for it with sufficient earnestness, that ere- 
 long this ancient church may be really reformed 
 by a revival time of blessing from the presence of 
 the Lord ? 
 
 The Sunday services we found to be deeply 
 interesting. We first went to the church where 
 the reform party conduct their worship, one of 
 the oldest in the country. It certainly has a look 
 of antiquity ; a quaint, rather poor, touching old 
 tabernacle, in wliich it required no great stretch 
 of imagination to picture the apostle Thomas him- 
 self preaching to the assembled Eastern-looking 
 groups. Outside the grave, gray old building 
 looks picturesque with its surrounding of wood, 
 
 * The Travancore almanac gives tlie number of the Syri- 
 ans who have joined liomc as 136,230; about half as many 
 are Jacobile Syrians. 
 
284 
 
 SCENES IX SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 A stone cross of rather novel construction stands 
 not far from it, with a second cross-bar at the top 
 and about twenty feet in height. Buttresses sup- 
 port the old walls, the windows are pointed and 
 high-set, and the roof slopes considerably. Alto- 
 gether it is not unlike one of those ver}- old 
 churches you sometimes come on in a pictu- 
 resque, out-of-the-way village in England. In- 
 side the building is long, narrow, perfectly simple, 
 and lofty. The walls are sombre with decayed 
 whitewash, and the ceiling open and arched, 
 showing the cross-beams. At the upper end a 
 rail crosses the entire floor, within which, four 
 steps up, is the altar, gaudy with yellow and 
 green, a few unlit candles upon it, and a curtain, 
 which is drawn across as the service requires. A 
 large baptismal font stands at one end, the floor 
 is carpeted, and a reading-desk, covered with red, 
 faces you at the top of the steps. Over the altar 
 is hung a large crucifix, and above is a domed 
 ceiling painted with rude frescos, A good many 
 pictures ornament the lower part of the dome, all 
 of course representing sacred scenes, and some 
 beautiful old bronze lamps are suspended from 
 the beams. 
 
 We were received ver\- kindly by some of the 
 deacons and conducted up a rickety stairway to 
 an old gallery made of wood, now very much 
 
COTTAYAM: the SYRIAN CHRISTIANS. 285 
 
 worm-eaten, where I had the narrowest escape 
 from tumbling through a great hole in the floor 
 to the slabs below. Within the rail at the altar 
 several clergy were seated, and the congregation, 
 composed of a good many men, a few women, and 
 a crowd of children, sat on the stone floor below, 
 there being no seats of any sort, not even matting. 
 Before the service began a woman wrapped in a 
 white cloth prostrated herself before the priest, to 
 make confession, they said, in connection with 
 her partaking of the holy communion for the first 
 time. 
 
 I was very glad to have this opportunity of 
 seeing the Syrian women, and was exceedingly 
 struck with their superiority in countenance and 
 appearance and dress to the heathen women I 
 have seen in this place. They look intelligent 
 and even sweet in expression and arc wonderfully 
 fair in complexion. The mission-schools so long 
 conducted by the ladies here have had a most 
 beneficial influence on these women, many of 
 whom, indeed, have been educated in these ex- 
 cellent schools. The service was now begun by 
 one of the priests, a venerable man in a white 
 robe and red scarf, with a very long beard, who 
 read a prayer in Malayalim, with his back to the 
 congregation. This was succeeded by some chant- 
 ing, in which two priests and eight deacons, all 
 
2S6 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 seated vvitliin the rail, took part. Lessons then 
 were read from both the Old and New Testa- 
 ments, with lyrics between, which were sung by 
 some boys, the people hardly joining. There 
 were responses, however, tolerably hearty. The 
 people stood at prayer, and at the close repeated 
 "Amen." But the service as a whole was not 
 impressive. The men generally were not rever- 
 ent ; the women, who sat separate at one side, 
 were much more so : their heads were covered 
 with white cloths, and they prostrated themselves 
 occasionally, clasping their hands with much 
 seeming devoutness. The services continued 
 long, but there was no sermon while we stayed. 
 
 After a time we left and went to another ser- 
 vice held not far off by the original or non-reform- 
 ing party. We found this going on in a veranda- 
 like room, narrow, unventilatcd, and densely 
 packed with half-clothed people, mostly men. 
 We managed to get in; but the crush, the noise, 
 and the terrific heal of the place soon drove us 
 out. I hope I shall never feci anything like that 
 awfnl heat again, mingled as it was with the 
 steam and the breaths and the incense which the . 
 gorgeous priest was engaged in swinging all the 
 time we were able to remain. After this it was 
 easy to imagine the Black Hole of Calcutta. I 
 could only gasp and beg to be taken to the outer 
 
cottayam: the Syrian christians. 287 
 
 air before I succumbed altogethei. So we did 
 not see much of this service, which, I believe, is 
 full of ritual. We returned to the first place and 
 found worship still proceeding. The curtain was 
 now drawn across the altar and the congregation 
 much increased. Presently the curtain was with- 
 drawn and the priest reappeared in a splendid 
 robe of scarlet with yellow hood, swinging a cen- 
 ser of incense, when there rose a great shout of 
 prayer, I might call it, the people joining in and 
 making the sign of the cross repeatedly on fore- 
 head and shoulder and breast. The candles were 
 now lit, the fervor of the congregation was deeper, 
 and the responses loud and hearty. Some lyrics 
 were nicely sung in Malayalim and one or two in 
 Syriac, and then all was concluded by repeating 
 the Lord's Prayer. The communion was to be 
 celebrated afterwards, when the people would sit 
 in rows, having the bread and wine giveti to each, 
 much in the same form as in the Church of Eng- 
 land. But wc could not wait for this, having to 
 go to the mission church and there join our breth- 
 ren and sisters in the holy ordinance. 
 
 We found the service had already begun when 
 we entered the cool, handsome, well-filled modern 
 church. My first thought was, What would many 
 a loving missionary heart at home feel, seeing 
 what we had seen in this place ? And now here 
 
288 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 was another wonderful and impressive spectacle: 
 a large, orderly, intelligent congregation of young 
 and old, as respectable as any you could see at 
 home, with one from among themselves reverently 
 conducting their devotions. These would all of 
 them, pastor and people, still be as the heathen 
 outside, or at best like these poor ignorant Chris- 
 tians who have so much to learn, but for the glo- 
 rious work of this mission. We have lately seen 
 many such native Christian congregations and 
 been inexpressibly interested; but our hearts 
 seemed more than usually touched to-day, I sup- 
 pose after all we had just witnessed. The large 
 group of women and schoolgirls especially struck 
 me, neat and tidy in tlieir pretty, simple, white 
 costume — such a contrast to the half-clothed, un- 
 kempt, wild-looking women of the heathen castes 
 without. There were some Syrian women also 
 present who looked capable of any amount of 
 training and work. 
 
 It need not be told how earnestly we pray and 
 hope that the existence of this youthful, but flour- 
 ishing and living native Christian church, which 
 through God's goodness has been planted here, 
 may have the effect of stirring up the elder sister 
 church to new life and vigor; and may the Spirit 
 of the living God be richly poured out on both, 
 until old things have passed away and all things 
 
cottayam: the Syrian christians. 289 
 
 have become new, not only among the Christians, 
 but among the heathen also ! 
 
 After my husband had preached, his sermon 
 being interpreted by the pastor, we had the inex- 
 pressibly solemn joy of receiving the holy com- 
 munion in company with the native Christians 
 and our missionary friends from the hands of the 
 native ministers. In the evening Dr. Mitchell 
 again preached, this time in the college chapel, 
 to an English audience; and then the memorable 
 Sabbath and our happy visit together came to an 
 end. 
 
 Hccnra In Southern Inilla, 
 
 19 
 
290 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 THE HILL ARRIANS OF TRAVANCORE. 
 
 In all the hill districts of India there are to be 
 found wilder races of people, who differ in many 
 respects from the population of the plains. These 
 are mostly aboriginal tribes. The hill country of 
 Travancore is no exception to the rule. In this 
 region, in the more mountainous parts, several of 
 these interesting races are to be found, the most 
 notable being the Hill Arrians, who inhabit the 
 higher slopes of the Western Ghats. 
 
 Some of the same curious remains which have 
 excited so much interest in other parts of India 
 are to be found hereabout — such as cromlechs, 
 strange circles, burial mounds, etc. The people 
 are not idolaters; they worship demons and the 
 spirits of their ancestors; and the rites they prac- 
 tise in their worship and in the ceremonies con- 
 nected with births, funerals, and marriages are 
 very similar to those of other wild races, such as 
 the Karens of Burmah, the Gonds, the Santals, 
 and others. 
 
 I must say these wild people show most excel- 
 lent taste in the selection of sites for their villages 
 
I 
 
THE HILL ARRIAXS OF TRAVAXCORE. 29I 
 
 and settlements; they always choose the loveliest 
 spots. But I had better quote what the late Rev. 
 Henry Baker says of them in a very interesting 
 paper he wrote on, the subject of the wilder peo- 
 ple here and the progress of mission work among 
 them, which he prosecuted with much vigor until 
 his lamented death. He says : 
 
 "There are several tribes inhabiting the West- 
 em Ghats in the Cochin and Travancore coun- 
 tries, of whom the majority are divided into small 
 wandering bodies, living for a few months in a par- 
 ticular spot, and then deserting it for another as 
 soon as their scanty crop of grain is reaped. The 
 Arrians, however, have their fixed villages, and 
 reside generally on the western slopes of the higher 
 range of mountains. They number from 14,000 
 to iS,ooo souls, and by the Government ofiicials 
 are called Mulla Vellens, and are considered to 
 rank in caste above all the mechanics and equal 
 to Mohammedans and Jews. Their villages are 
 often lovely spots, generally in a ravine not acces- 
 sible to elephants, near to some gushing rivulet 
 falling over rocks, and surrounded by gigantic 
 trees and palms, rarely at a less elevation than 
 2,000 or 3,000 feet above the sea. Many of their 
 houses are good substantial erections of wood and 
 stone, built by workmen from the plains and after 
 the fashion common to the western coast; but in 
 
292 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 many cases they prefer temporary huts of mud, 
 bamboo, and grass thatch, as the survivors often 
 dislike living in a dwelling in which the head of 
 the family has died. The whole of the hill coun- 
 try is owned by Brahmans or Zemindars, who re- 
 ceive trifling rents from the Arrians for their fruit- 
 trees and cultivated land; and besides this, each 
 head man has to furnish a certain quantity of 
 honey for the rajah's birthday, dig a few elephant 
 pits, and help with bark ropes to conduct the ani- 
 mals when entrapped into the taming cages. 
 These people extend from Cape Comorin to the 
 borders of Travancore in the north. . . . The 
 Arrians are, many of them, rich, being large cul- 
 tivators of the slopes, which they clear of jungle 
 in the dry season, sowing during the rains. Every 
 man, however, has to watch with guns during 
 seed-time and harvest, to protect the crops from 
 elephants, deer, and other animals, as well as 
 from swanns of birds. ' ' 
 
 In character the Arrians seem to be truthful 
 and generally moral, except that, like too many 
 of their brethren of the hills, they are very fond 
 of arrack. Thus drunken brawls are not un- 
 frequent. They are manly, frank, genial, and 
 free in manner, and are well made and athletic, 
 the women often being fair and even beautiful. 
 Like many of these more manly races they are 
 
THE HILL ARRIANS OF TRAVANCORE. 293 
 
 fond of the chase, and make fearless hunters, aim- 
 ing generally at high game, such as the tiger, 
 wild elephant, and wild ox. 
 
 There is one remarkable difference between 
 them and the Malayalim inhabitants of the plain: 
 the children in a natural way inherit their father's 
 property. It does not go away, as in the case of 
 Hindoo succession, to the children of their father's 
 sister. The wife is not required to stand behind, 
 like the Hindoo, while her lord and master eats 
 what she has prepared for him, and then make 
 her meal of what he chooses to leave when his 
 appetite is appeased: the Arrian wife partakes 
 along with her husband, eating oflf the same dish, 
 namely, a shiny plantain leaf, as a loving couple 
 ought to do. Indeed, this is a sign of their relation- 
 ship, and eating together is part of the wedding 
 ceremonial. The marriage tie among them is 
 indissoluble and considered sacred, and the hus- 
 band has only one wife. The Arrians bury their 
 dead — not burn them — and at their funerals have 
 some curious ceremonies, which are repeated, and 
 offerings made, on the anniversary of the death. 
 All their religious rites are connected with the wor- 
 ship of the spirits of their dead. Missions were 
 begun among this interesting people a good many 
 years ago. The excellent missionary from whose 
 paper I have quoted, the Rev. H. Baker, was 
 
294 
 
 SCEXES IX SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 honored to commence the work, and his account 
 of the remarkable way in which he was led in 
 God's providence to take it up, as well as the 
 success given to his efforts, is so striking that I 
 think I cannot do better than give it in his words 
 rather than my own. Mr. Baker was then a mis- 
 sionary at Cottayam. He says: 
 
 "I had often heard of a people living in the 
 hills who were acknowledged to be very truth- 
 ful and chaste, and were said to be the Mulla 
 Nairs and as ancient as the hills themselves. 
 I had put all this down to the usual style of In- 
 dian conversation; but during a missionary tour 
 I met three or four fine-looking men, different 
 from the races in the plains both in the contour 
 of their faces and method of wearing their clothes. 
 We had some very interesting conversation and 
 they stayed the night at the tent. They left ear- 
 ly, and I did not expect again to see them, as we 
 were so far from their hills, but some months 
 after my little daughter ran into my study at 
 Pullum to say that some very curious-looking 
 men were come to see me. This was in 1848. 
 There were five men from as many different hills 
 begging me to go and open schools among them. 
 They had a Romo-Syrian with them named Kup- 
 peer Curien as guide, a man who then, though 
 well acquainted with the truth, did not know its 
 
THE HILL ARRIANS OF TRAVANCORE. 295 
 
 power. This was my introduction to the Arrians. 
 Again and again did they come on this errand; 
 but I hesitated to go so far, as I had several new 
 but increasing congregations, some hundred chil- 
 dren in the day-schools, and a Preparandi class of 
 young men of whom I hoped to make teachers. 
 There was no road through the forty-five miles of 
 jungle, fever was prevalent, and coolies difficult 
 to procure. The friends I consulted said, ' Possi- 
 bly you may begin the work and may compass 
 something, but you will have no successor. ' Many 
 thought with me that the hill men were seeking 
 for a protector, and not for Christianity; others, 
 that no centre of operations could be made in 
 the hills, the population being scattered, and 
 that, even if the work of conversion did begin, 
 the results produced by working in the plains 
 would be more important and extensive if a 
 movement took place. But the heads of several 
 villages at last came down and remonstrated on 
 account of my delay. 'Five times,' said they, 
 ' have we been to call you. You must know we 
 know nothing right; will you teach us or not? 
 We die like beasts and are buried like dogs; 
 ought you to neglect us?' 'Cholera and fever,' 
 said another, 'carried off such and such members 
 of my family; where are they now?' They 
 stated that they wanted no pecuniary help, as 
 
296 SCENES IX SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 they had plenty of rice. They wished to serve 
 God and not to be oppressed by any one. They 
 offered to make over their lands a.s a proof of 
 sincerity, and waited about, determined to have 
 me in their hills; so I promised to meet them the 
 next week on the banks of a river about thirty 
 miles distant, whence they proposed to guide me 
 to a principal village and have an assemblage of 
 their people. I sent some men a day or two be- 
 fore I started, in order to have a hut erected on 
 the banks of the river, as it would be necessa- 
 ry to halt there for the night. On arriving there 
 with my brother, trusting to our messengers, we 
 found neither Arrians, hut, nor people of any 
 kind, but a dense jungle overhanging the stream, 
 with only a narrow track leading down to the 
 water by which we had come. Walking in the 
 close jungles, with a hot sun overhead, had com- 
 pletely knocked us up. With aching heads and 
 perhaps disappointed, angr>' feelings, we lay down 
 to spend the night on boughs strewed on the 
 ground, with a blanket overhead to keep off the 
 heavy dews; but before dark some Tamil mer- 
 chants who had crossed the mountains came to 
 the river, and seeing us, crossed over on a raft 
 and lent us a little blanket tent six feet square. 
 We were thankful for this; for heavy rain soon 
 came on. The next morning, having returned 
 
THE HILL ARRIAXS OF TRAVAXCORE. 297 
 
 the tent to the owners, who would take no com- 
 pensation, we crossed the stream, now much 
 swollen from the rain, and proceeding along an 
 elephant track for an hour, found some Arrians 
 waiting for us: they had not gone farther, as they 
 still doubted whether we would come. On enter- 
 ing the village of Combukuthie, so called from 
 the hilltop beneath which it is built having the 
 appearance of a fallen elephant, I observed some 
 piles of wood at the angles of a small level piece 
 of ground. I inquired what they were for. 'Oh,' 
 said they, ' this is where we meet for games, set- 
 tling marriages, disputes, etc. We are to have a 
 meeting directly it is known you are come, and 
 the piles of wood are to give the assembly light' 
 Soon I heard men shouting from one place to an- 
 other, far away up along the hillsides, ' He is ar- 
 rived. Come all !' Messages are thus conveyed 
 from one mountain settlement to another with 
 great rapidity. By nightfall some two hundred 
 men and lads, the representatives of eight hun- 
 dred or nine hundred, had assembled, the piles of 
 wood were lighted, and with the moon also to 
 aid we held our conference. I told them I had at 
 last come at their request, and it was to tell them 
 a message I was intrusted with; that some cen- 
 turies back the people of England had the same 
 rites and hero-worship as they had; that the 
 
298 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 Dniids taught the Britons just such ideas as their 
 Pusaries did; but that at last a Book was brought 
 them which told of God — what he was, how pow- 
 erful, yet the Father of his trusting children, and 
 that he had sent this Book. . . Further, that the 
 God-fearing people of England had sent me with 
 this Book to teach the same glad tidings. They 
 wished to see the Book; I showed them the Ma- 
 layalim Testament and read John 3, Romans i, 
 and other passages; I said it was faith and love to 
 God which made men happy here and in heaven. 
 Numberless simple but very practical questions 
 were asked by them, not in a cavilling spirit, like 
 the Brahmans and Vedantists of the plains, on 
 the atonement, fall of man, sin, misery, future 
 punishment, etc. They occasionally talked among 
 themselves, some making objections, others pro- 
 posing a trial of the regulations I proposed, and a 
 few thought the rules for the Sabbath and daily 
 learning too severe. . . Long after midnight the 
 head man of the village said, 'We have talked 
 enough ; where are the teachers we are to have ?' 
 I said, ' I will send them; but we must ask God's 
 blessing first; he must help or our counsels will 
 come to grief.' All knelt by the blazing piles, 
 and after a few w-ords of prayer for help we dis- 
 persed. The strangers slept by the fires wrapped 
 up in their blankets, while I retired to the hut 
 
THE HILL ARRIANS OF TRAVANCORE. 299 
 
 usually prepared in the village for guests. I re- 
 turned after a day or two to Pullum, my station 
 in the low country, after promising to send them 
 three teachers and to spend a fortnight of each 
 alternate month with them. ' ' 
 
 Thus mission work began among these inter- 
 esting, simple people. Difficulties naturally arose. 
 Enemies were busy and the arch-enemy busiest 
 of all; but God was working and his hand could 
 not be stayed. When Mr. Baker returned to his 
 station in the low country he summoned a meet- 
 ing of his catechists and Scripture-readers. He 
 told them of the opening for Christian work 
 among the hill people and asked for volunteers 
 for the service. He reminded them that men 
 from Europe had come ten thousand miles to 
 teach them ; would they not go some forty to 
 teach the people of their own land ? The result 
 was that thirty-seven out of the forty present 
 offered to go, and finally it was settled that three 
 should go together, exchanging every month or 
 two. 
 
 This arrangement continued in force, with 
 more or less satisfactory results, for about two 
 years. Trials and difficulties, however, were 
 manifold and much discouragement had to be 
 fought against. Some of the men were faithful 
 and hard working, but others were less so, and 
 
300 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 evils crept in unawares. False brethren there 
 were who tried to fill the minds of the people 
 with prejudice against the missionaries, telling 
 them also that they would lose their high stand- 
 ing in their tribe by becoming Christians. Then 
 dismal accounts were carried to the plains regard- 
 ing the hill country, where fever was rife and 
 tigers and elephants and other wild beasts filled 
 the jungles. Several times JNIr. Baker and his 
 party had to climb into trees to avoid the attacks 
 of wild elephants. Accidents were of frequent 
 occurrence, both from the wild creatures which 
 abounded and from the sudden rush of mountain 
 torrents, swollen after every rain. Once a Euro- 
 pean gentleman fell into one of the pits, eighteen 
 feet deep, dug for the capture of wild elephants, 
 and though not killed he was much hurt. Fever 
 and cholera carried off their victims, for these 
 dread diseases always lingered about the jungles. 
 Thus they were in "deaths oft." "Why go on 
 attempting this work?" exclaimed some who 
 were fearful and unbelieving; and a Syrian priest 
 assured Mr. Baker's coadjutors that the bishop 
 had ordered this work as a penance. 
 
 But the power of Christ rested on the faithful 
 missionary and his little band. The good work 
 could not be hindered. They all held bravely 
 on, and so did the people themselves. They had 
 
THE HILL ARRIAXS OF TRAVAXCORE. 3OI 
 
 been truthful and earnest in their request for 
 Christian teaching, and soon they showed their 
 sincerity by giving up many superstitious prac- 
 tices, such as burning lamps beside the graves of 
 their ancestors, propitiating demons, and so on. 
 They even became less addicted to arrack. The 
 children were sent to the schools which had been 
 opened, and some of the more intelligent young 
 men were sent down to the plains to be trained as 
 teachers and evangelists. There was much frank 
 intercourse between them and the missionaries, 
 and when they did not comprehend any part of 
 the instruction they said so and got it explained. 
 
 In a little over two years upwards of three 
 hundred Arrians had been instructed, a hundred 
 and twenty of whom asked for baptism and, after 
 sufficient trial, were received into the church. A 
 mission church and bungalow were built and a 
 small Christian settlement planted, strange to 
 say, on the very spot on the river bank where 
 Mr. Baker had first met the Tamil merchants. 
 The forest was cleared, huts were built — some in 
 trees, to avoid the risk of tigers and elephants — 
 and schools were opened and filled with pupils, 
 male and female. A Christian officer from Ma- 
 dras came to give help, chiefly in the way of 
 shooting the wild animals. An unknown lady 
 in England gave twenty ix)unds to aid the funds, 
 
302 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 and Sir Henry Lawrence, hearing of the work, 
 sent a hundred and fifty rupees from Lucknow, 
 with the message, "By all means go on; never 
 mind obstacles nor whence they come." And so 
 the Master, whose the work was, blessed and 
 prospered it. It has been carried on vigorously 
 ever since, and last year the converts among the 
 Hill Arrians amounted to 2,000 souls. 
 
 I 
 
cochin: the white and black jews. 303 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 cochin: the white and black jews. 
 
 We left Cottayam at midnight and are now 
 scudding along, in the light of the glorious full 
 moon, through the shadows which lie soft and 
 silent on the still waters of the lagoon. The 
 moon shines so bright and clear, riding up yonder 
 in her sweet, pure majesty, that I am writing by 
 her light. I have been trying to read too, sitting 
 on our old perch on the roof of our tidy little 
 boat. 
 
 Good-by, beautiful Cottayam ! I suppose we 
 shall never see it again, with all its engrossing 
 pleasures and interests, physical and spiritual and 
 moral; but we do hope to meet our kind friends 
 again by-and-by, when we reach the Hills. 
 
 The tall cocoa palms look spectral and weird 
 along the banks, like sentinels calling each to the 
 other, "Watchman, what of the night?" The 
 phosphorescent light is exquisite. It breaks into 
 little wavelets of fire as the oars strike the water, 
 and it seems to vie with the moonbeams as to 
 which will make the most brilliance. The men 
 arc so noisy, so obstreperous in their mirth, that 
 
304 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 I am afraid there is little use in our attempting to 
 go to sleep ; and yet, after the day's work and 
 tension and strain, sleep is desirable and the 
 night air comes sweet and cool from the water 
 through the open windows of our nice little cabin. 
 
 Cochin. 
 
 The night did not seem long, after all, and 
 welcome sleep at length did visit our aching eyes. 
 Soon after dawn we got to the jetty at Cochin 
 and found a fine old Mussulman peon, with Mr. 
 Seely's badge on his scarlet belt, waiting to con- 
 duct us here. And lo ! he speaks Hindostani ! 
 I poured out a stream volubly as of pent-up 
 waters ; we had felt so tongue - tied with these 
 Malayalim people. But the man either liked to 
 air his English or his Hindostani was not an 
 unlimited quantity, for he soon relapsed into the 
 gibberish his English amounted to. 
 
 Mr. Seely is the director of public instruction 
 and principal of the Government College, and he 
 and his wife are the embodiment of all hospitality 
 in Cochin and their house the centre of social 
 amenities generally. We found a novel sort of 
 conveyance awaiting us, something like a Japan- 
 ese jinriksha, but seated for two and pushed in- 
 stead of pulled, while the rider steers as you go 
 along. There are no horse-garis in Cochin, and 
 this machine, I believe, was an importation from 
 
cochin: the white and black jews. 305 
 
 Pondicherry. We soon reached the house and 
 were cordially welcomed by Mrs. Seely, her hus- 
 band having already started for his college. This 
 is a most picturesque old house. We have leaped 
 from the Indian bungalow-kind of abode to a 
 Continental dwelling. I immediately peopled it 
 with Albuquerques and Almeidas and Vasco de 
 Gamas, and I believe it is older than the Dutch 
 occupation of Cochin. It is upper-storied, with 
 large rooms and small side ones going off at every 
 corner and quaint little narrow stone courts and 
 balconies, filled by the tasteful hand of its mis- 
 tress with lovely flowers and crotons and ever- 
 greens and clambered over with creepers. The 
 drawing-rooms are filled with curious and inter- 
 esting things, and the whole house is a kind of 
 museum, not the least curious and engrossing 
 being the memories which you feel are piled up 
 everywhere. The house opposite looks like a 
 little fort, with flying buttresses and ever so many 
 queer little Dutch roofs and a dead blue wall all 
 round. The only drawback is the heat, which is 
 worse than ever. The climate here is always 
 moist and warm, somewhat like that of Bombay, 
 but more trying, and it differs little all the year 
 round. 
 
 Cochin is a semi-independent State, like Trav- 
 ancore. It has gone through many vicissitudes 
 20 
 
3o6 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 in its stormy history and has had many masters, 
 the Portuguese, Dutch, Hyder Ali, Tippoo-Sul- 
 tan, and the British — all having conquered it in 
 turn. The present rajah is of higher caste, I be- 
 lieve, than the Travancore royal family, but he 
 is by no means so enlightened as his brother of 
 Travancore. He is a thorough native in every 
 sense and knows not a word of English. We 
 have seen his palace, but not himself. The El- 
 liah-Rajah, or heir-apparent, however, seems a 
 more enlightened character. Cochin is a large 
 place, with some good buildings, chiefly Dutch, 
 that people having done much for it. It is full 
 of quaintness, very un-English, and also very un- 
 Indian, except for that one thing, the heat. It is 
 notable as having been one of the first places in 
 the country ever visited by Europeans. Indeed, 
 there are many things in its past which make it 
 an extremely interesting place to visit- Tradi- 
 tion says that the apostle Thomas arrived here 
 about A. D. 50 and began his labors from this 
 place. Then there are the Jews, of whom I shall 
 speak presently, round whose history so great an 
 interest always gathers. This remarkable colony 
 settled here, it is generally said, in the first cen- 
 tury, but some of the people themselves claim a 
 much earlier date. 
 
 The English built their first factory here in 
 
cochin: the white and black jews. 307 
 
 1660, thouo:h the State was not finally ceded to 
 them till 1814. I think this was the date. The 
 place now seems prosperous and to possess a lively 
 trade, chiefly in the products of the wonderful 
 cocoa palm, which forms the riches of this coast. 
 There are other articles of export, such as rice, 
 betel-leaf, and the nut of the areca palm, spices, 
 also coffee and timber; but most of the trade and 
 industry' are connected with the cocoanut, for 
 there seems to be no end to the economic uses to 
 which it can be put. There is a large trade in 
 cocoanut oil, and the coir matting one hears about 
 so much is made from the fibre. Indeed the fibre 
 of the nut is most valuable, and the preparation 
 of it to send to England and to the places where 
 it is manufactured into matting and other articles 
 forms one of the most important industries of the 
 coast. There is a very fine, large harbor, in 
 which we saw several European vessels lying and 
 an immense crowd of curious native craft of every 
 size and sort. Then there is water communica- 
 tion by means of the Backwater almost to any 
 extent, though as yet there is no railway. 
 
 Soon after our arrival the Rev. Mr. Wright 
 called and took my husband to see some schools 
 and mission work. Mrs. Seely authoritatively 
 sent me to bed instead of accompanying the gen- 
 tlemen; but this was made up for afterwards by a 
 
3o8 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. ' 
 
 visit to the grand old Cathedral, the oldest Chris- 
 tian church in India. It was built by the Portu- 
 guese, then turned into a Protestant place of wor- 
 ship by the Dutch, and it is now used by the Brit- 
 ish, having been renovated and modernized. But 
 the original old walls remain, strong, massive, 
 and buttressed, and there are still several old 
 tombstones on the flags inside. On one of these 
 the words "de Gama" are quite legible, but 
 whether this is the veritable tomb of the great 
 Vasco de Gama I cannot tell. He is said to have 
 been buried here, though the remains were after- 
 wards removed to Goa. It is wonderful that the 
 inscriptions are not more defaced than they are. 
 My husband made out several. There are a good 
 many Roman-catholic churches in and about 
 Cochin, The East Indians are mostly of this 
 faith, probably because the Indo-Portuguese ele- 
 ment is strong in the population, and also because 
 Francis Xavier visited this part and made many 
 converts. Mrs. Seely told me that the first book 
 ever printed in India was published in Cochin by 
 the Roman-catholics. 
 
 We also visited the fort, which we were curi- 
 ous to see, it being the very first fortress erected 
 by Europeans in this country. This was, of 
 course, by the Portuguese. It was commenced 
 by the renowned Albuquerque, and completed by 
 
cochin: the white and black jews. 309 
 
 others of those able commanders who sought to 
 bring India under the sway of Portugal. The 
 numerous and magnificent ruins of forts, churches, 
 and monasteries which are to be found on the 
 western coast, at Bassein and other places, testify- 
 to the valor and enterprise of these old warriors. 
 But the Cochin fortress as it is now is of differ- 
 ent dates. Not much of the original structure 
 remains, as it has been renovated or rebuilt by 
 the victorious powers who succeeded the Portu- 
 guese. 
 
 The interest of our visit, however, culminated 
 one evening when we went among the Jews and 
 visited both the colonies of this interesting peo- 
 ple. After lunch, when it became cool enough, 
 we started in the funny little jinrikshas, descrip- 
 tively called "push-push." Mr. Wright took me 
 in his, while Mrs. Seely accommodated my hus- 
 band. We went through the long streets of the 
 native town, which I cannot say were either clean 
 or pleasantly odorous, but they were full of the 
 usual picturesqueness of Eastern bazars. The 
 shops were quaint and curious and the population 
 varied. A good many Mussulmans were to be 
 seen chiefly in the shops squatted among their 
 wares, many of which we recognized as old friends, 
 having evidently come from Bombay. By-and-by 
 the character of the population began to change. 
 
3IO SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 The features, costumes, complexion, everj'thiiig 
 annouuced that we had got to the quarter inhab- 
 ited by the Jews. We alighted before the syna- 
 gogue and were received in a most friendly way 
 hy several men who gathered round, while a small 
 crowd collected to gaze at the strangers. 
 
 This Jewish settlement, consisting of white 
 Jews and black Jews, has existed, as I have said, 
 for long ages in Cochin, and has always kept aloof 
 from the heathen around. The black Jews some- 
 what resemble the Beni-Israel of Bombay. The 
 two colonies live in quite separate quarters, though 
 these are near each other. They have different 
 synagogues and do not worship together, but they 
 do occasionally intermarry. If a white Jew mar- 
 ries a black Jewess the children are reckoned as 
 belonging to the black community. It has some- 
 times been imagined that the climate has wrought 
 the change of complexion; but the truth is that 
 the black Jews have by no means unmixed Jew- 
 ish blood. They are descended chiefly from native 
 proselytes. Still, the Jewish features are suffi- 
 ciently marked to prove that they are of God's 
 ancient people. The little Josephs and Rachels 
 and Reubens who came crowding: round, gazing 
 at us with their glorious black eyes ver>' wide 
 open, could certainly trace their lineage up to 
 their father Abraham. And some of the so-called 
 
cochin: the white and black jews. 311 
 
 black Jews had wonderfully fair countenances and 
 fair complexions. The black colony are much 
 more numerous than the white. They told us 
 that the latter only numbered fifty families, while 
 there are two hundred and fifty of the former. 
 There do not seem to be many wealthy men among 
 either people. For once the Jew is poor. But 
 they do a fair amount of trade, and they may be 
 richer than they seem. Some of the women I 
 saw were much ornamented with jewelry; they 
 had some fine precious stones glittering on their 
 breasts and foreheads. 
 
 We spent some time in the synagogue, a build- 
 ing quite disappointingly modern — not at all old — 
 with tiled floor and a good deal of color, blue pre- 
 dominating. Crowds of men entered and were 
 very friendly, talking frankly with the gentlemen 
 about themselves and their history. They affirmed 
 that their ancestors had settled in Cochin after 
 the destruction of the temple by Nebuchadnez- 
 zar. Of this, however, I do not know that there 
 is any proof. Some of them speak Hebrew fairly 
 well, and my husband talked with them in this 
 old tongue. He was very anxious to see any an- 
 cient manuscripts they might have, but they 
 declared they had none. If they had they did 
 not care, for some reason, to show them. They 
 said those they possessed were buried, and actu- 
 
312 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 ally showed the place where the manuscripts were 
 entombed ! They brought out some rolls of the 
 Law iu Hebrew, which they now read in the 
 synagogue; but Dr. INIitchell said they were not 
 old. They showed us also some most interesting 
 copper-plates, which they permitted us to handle 
 and examine freely. Two are engraven on both 
 sides with a kind of record of their past histor}-, 
 the language being an old form of jNIalayalim. 
 The third plate seemed a cover for the other two. 
 There is no resident rabbi, and I am afraid there 
 is little education among either of the bodies, the 
 black or the white Jews. 
 
 Ver>' little mission work has been undertaken 
 in their behalf. The Established Church of Scot- 
 land sent out a missionary to labor among them 
 in 1844; but the work was soon discontinued and 
 has not been resumed. 
 
 While we were in the synagogue a poor old 
 Jew, all the way from Jerusalem, came in and 
 asked an alms. We find that Jews do still come 
 here from other places and settle among their peo- 
 ple. Is it not curious that this remnant should 
 be found in this far comer of the earth and so 
 strangely preserved through the centuries ? When 
 the day of the great ingathering comes when many 
 nations shall say, " Come and let us go up to the 
 mountain of the Lord and to the house of the God 
 
COCHIN: THE WHITE AND BLACK JEWS. 313 
 
 of Jacob," let us hope and pray that these poor 
 people may not be left out ! I told them I hoped 
 they would be of the tribes who would yet go up 
 to Jerusalem to the new "testimony of Israel," 
 when the law shall again go forth out of Zion and 
 the word of the Lord from Jerusalem. The poor 
 old pilgrim who came begging touched me much. 
 He made a most pathetic picture, his bent figure 
 leaning, like Jacob, on the top of his staff. He 
 wore a long Eastern robe, in stripes of bright col- 
 ors, but much tattered and torn, a stiff black cap 
 sat on the top of his white locks, and his long 
 white beard flowed down to his girdle. His pale, 
 refined, and wasted features spoke of the iitter- 
 most dejection. He looked as if he had stepped 
 forth from a group of those who sat by the rivers 
 of Babylon and wept when they remembered 
 Zion — as if he had " hanged his harp on the wil- 
 lows " for evermore. Poor old man ! he seemed 
 touched by our sympathy and much pleased when 
 my husband spoke to him in Hebrew. 
 
 Some of the men had very courteously invited 
 me to go to their houses and see their wives ; so 
 when the gentlemen went on with a company to 
 carry their investigations into the quarter inhab- 
 ited by the black Jews, Mrs. Scely and I entered 
 some of the houses and had some interesting visits 
 among the women. They seemed quite delighted 
 
314 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 to see us and crowded eagerly round. The better 
 classes are pleasant in manner, have good features, 
 rich olive complexions, and some of them are 
 nicely dressed, after their own Eastern fashion, in 
 gay colors, with plenty of ornaments. One or two 
 spoke Hindostanie, so that I could converse with 
 them, and these interpreted for the others. Their 
 language is Malayalim; the women know no He- 
 brew. They took me to a large, good house, 
 where a marriage had been celebrated, and pre- 
 sented me to the bride, a fair, bright, very young 
 girl, much bedizened with gold and apparel, and 
 looking modest, as was fitting. A great deal of 
 noisy music was going on and evidently much 
 feasting. 
 
 Mr. Seely now joined us, and as it was begin- 
 ning to get dark and we had a good way to go, 
 we were obliged to take leave of the interesting 
 people. 
 
 Mr. Wright and I shot ahead of the others, 
 and, at the risk of being benighted, he yielded to 
 my entreaties to be taken home through the great 
 palm forest, which is thickly populated. There 
 were quantities of huts and little homesteads, out- 
 side which the people sat in groups. At one part 
 of the grove we passed through a broad street or 
 road where only Namburi Brahmans live. How 
 they permitted us, the impure, to pass through I 
 
cochin: the white and black jews. 315 
 
 do not know; but perhaps they did not detect us 
 iu the gathering gloom, heightened by the dense 
 masses of foliage overhead. There are many of 
 these sacred personages, the Namburis, in Cochin; 
 indeed, this seems to be their headquarters, and 
 caste is as strong and overbearing as it is iu Trav- 
 ancore. We passed a small temple brilliantly 
 lighted up, but we were not allowed to enter or 
 even look into the outer inclosure, far less into the 
 temple itself. 
 
 I enjoyed my homeward drive in the cool 
 night air exceedingly, and though our friends 
 thought we were lost, we were quite in time for 
 dinner, at which we met some pleasant people, 
 pleasantest of all being our intellectual, cultured 
 host and hostess. 
 
 Next morning some of the gentlemen who had 
 dined with us escorted my husband to some of the 
 factories and " godowns," or cellars, where he saw 
 the cocoanut fibre process and also the dr>-ing and 
 cleaning of the coffee. I have to own that the 
 heat has at length fairly conquered me, as now it 
 begins to make life a burden. After breakfast, 
 while I packed and arranged for starting. Dr. 
 Mitchell accompanied Mr. Seely across the bay 
 to a place with a most classic-sounding name, 
 Ernaculum, where the college is. Here he spent 
 a most delightful morning among the lads in airy 
 
3l6 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 Upper class-rooms, talked and examined, and 
 finally addressed the pupils. He then was rowed 
 back, and by five o'clock we had started once 
 more. I forgot to say that we have seen a talipot 
 palm in full blossom, which is a rare sight. It 
 blossoms and then, alas, dies. 
 
TRICHOOR. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 TRICHOOR. 
 
 MARCH 8. 
 
 WK are now embarked for tlic last time on the 
 beautiful Backwater. To-morrow morning we 
 hope to reach Trichoor, thence a night's travel 
 in our old acquaintance, a bullock -ghari, will 
 bring us once more to the railway at Shoranoor. 
 From this point the country is intersected by the 
 iron road on to Madras. 
 
 We have about fifty miles of water to traverse 
 before the sun becomes fierce in the heavens to- 
 morrow, but we have twelve fresh, hearty, stal- 
 wart men, besides their steersman, or skipper, a 
 broad-shouldered, intensely black, cheery man, 
 who keeps the oarsmen to their work, and they 
 do pull with a will. 
 
 The scenery on the banks is much as before, 
 only just at Cochin the water widens into a grand 
 lake-like expanse, as there the Backwater unites 
 with the sea. The harbor is a fine sight, with its 
 ships and curious craft, also its environment of 
 buildings, some of them handsome, including one 
 of the rajah's palaces and his public offices. The 
 
3l8 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 college and town at Ernaculum also lie over the 
 water, with picturesque native villages nestling 
 amid the palm groves and by the mangrove 
 swamps. It is curious to see the gnarled roots 
 arching themselves in the shallows, which are 
 crowded with tall-necked cranes sitting in con- 
 templation on the stems or stalking about with 
 philosophic deliberation, picking up the poor lit- 
 tle frogs and fishes and depositing them in their 
 pouches as a reserve larder for their supper. 
 
 The country is a great flat, now and then 
 transformed into a series of islets green and palm- 
 crowned, or long strips of margin with small 
 homesteads, and occasionally a little Christian 
 church, generally Roman-catholic, or it may be 
 Syrian. They look pretty among the trees; and 
 what a cheering sight it is to look upon that cross 
 pointing heavenward ! You cannot see it here at 
 least without feeling that your soul rises with it on 
 the wings of hope and faith. And one needs to rise 
 above the present, for there are temples and de- 
 mon shrines among the trees as well as churches, 
 and Namburi Brahmans by the hundred occupy 
 these little settlements. 
 
 The Namburis are often rich and considerable 
 land-owners, and of course are all-powerful. A 
 gentleman told me, but I do not vouch for the 
 truth of it, that the land-owners of Malabar often 
 
TRICHOOR. 319 
 
 are known by the names of their properties, as in 
 the North of Scotland. 
 
 The princesses of the Cochin royal family may 
 marry only persons of this high caste; and it is a 
 curious fact that the Brahman who is chosen to 
 be the husband of a princess either by herself or 
 her family must have his funeral ceremony per- 
 formed before his marriage ceremony is proceeded 
 with! The meaning of it is that henceforward he 
 is counted as dead to his caste. The Namburis are 
 so much higher and more sacred than any other 
 people on earth that this is the law and custom, 
 and he submits. The honor of alliance with roy- 
 alty thus involves in Cochin descent in rank and 
 social degradation. 
 
 Christians are numerous in the Cochin State, 
 Counting Roman-catholics and those of all church- 
 es, they are said to be somewhere over twenty per 
 cent, of the whole population. 
 
 It is by no means a peaceful afternoon. Black 
 clouds gather in heavy masses overhead, sheet 
 lightning plays incessantly all over the heavens, 
 the wind soughs and wails in the palm-tops; the 
 water is rough as we meet some white-crested 
 waves coming over the barrier from the troubled 
 sea without. I dare say a storm is coming up 
 which will cool the air. Meanwhile it is bleak 
 and almost chill as the darkness falls. 
 
320 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 We have now had dinner and the moon be- 
 gins to show her silvery, lightsome self above the 
 dense woods, scattering the inky clouds, and all 
 things look more cheery. Our energetic crew 
 took us to the bank with a few strokes of their 
 oars ; they landed, moored the boat, produced 
 their well-burnished brass vessels, soon made a 
 blaze with some of the dry sticks about and 
 cooked their evening meal, for which they had 
 worked bravely and well. Happily all were of 
 one caste, so they fed together, and we were so 
 amused watching their proceedings as they sat 
 round their fire that we let poor Joseph's delicious 
 curry get cold, to his great discomfiture. 
 
 The evening is now serene and sweet, and the 
 scene is beautiful on the banks, where everything 
 that loves moisture and warmth seems to flourish 
 wantonly. We lay long on the boat-roof watch- 
 ing the silent, peaceful scene, and then I retired 
 "behind purdah'''' to the tiny cabin. Unfor- 
 tunately the little lantern had been forgotten at 
 Cochin, and the moon was not enough to scare 
 nocturnal visitors. I soon saw by her light that 
 I shared the cabin with at least one rat, a numer- 
 ous family of cockroaches, and plenty of mosqui- 
 toes. I did not sleep much, therefore, and was 
 beginning to think of a cup of tea from the spirit 
 lamp as the dawn grew pink in the sky, when we 
 
TRICHOOR. 
 
 321 
 
 Stopped. Why ? I inquired. For the simple rea- 
 son that we had arrived. Our good men had done 
 the fifty miles in thirteen hours. On the landing 
 we perceived a bullock-bandy waiting, and soon 
 after found ourselves in another pleasant mission- 
 house heartily welcomed by Mr. and Mrs. Bishop, 
 of the Church Missionary Society in Trichoor. 
 
 This is a large place, very old, and of historic 
 interest. Moreover, it is important as the head of 
 the Backwater, and thus the key of communica- 
 tion between the outer world and Cochin and 
 Travancore. I am afraid it has also another sort 
 of preeminence in being one of the most bigoted 
 and evil of cities. All these cities seem to be big- 
 oted enough, but in Trichoor you find the crhne de 
 la crhne of Brahraanism. So we are told on every 
 hand. 
 
 Caste is intensely and exceptionally strong, 
 and, as elsewhere, stands in the way of all prog- 
 ress. The degradation of the lower castes, conse- 
 quent on the absurd and oppressive laws of caste, 
 is terrible here and hardly to be believed. For 
 example, no native Christian, however educated 
 and intelligent, nor any person of low caste, can 
 obtain employment in a public office, for fear of 
 polluting those officials who may be of higher 
 caste ! Then the school difficulties are endless. 
 The children of some of the inferior castes dare 
 
 Bri-neti In Soulliurti Irulla. 
 
 21 
 
322 
 
 SCKNKS IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 not even approach a school where higher lads are 
 taught. The disabilities are inconceivable, and 
 so are the injustice and inequality of the laws. 
 Women too are degraded to a degree you hardly 
 find equalled in these days of reform in any other 
 part of India. It is terrible to look at some of the 
 poor miserable-looking creatures, with hardly any 
 clothing and no sense even of decency. 
 
 The whole of this State is one of the great 
 strongholds of idolatry and Brahmanism, where 
 Satan still holds his seat. But, happily, missions 
 and mission-schools are beginning to tell. The 
 work is going on, accompanied by fervent, believ- 
 ing prayer; and we may hope to see here, as else- 
 where, that prayer will prevail, that the prison- 
 doors will be opened and the captives of this ter- 
 rible system go free. If the women could only be 
 got at and elevated there would be more hope of 
 speedy emancipation; but ancestral superstitions 
 and ctistoms still have a strong hold on the peo- 
 ple. 
 
 Namburi women are very much secluded and 
 guarded with the most jealous care. Even sisters 
 and brothers are separated early. I suppose there 
 is not a single Brahman woman of this particular 
 caste as yet under instruction of any sort. 
 
 Two zenana missionaries, the Misses Coleman, 
 are working here side by side with Mrs. Bishop, 
 
TRICIIOOR 
 
 whose name has long been known as a successful 
 promoter of female education. In speaking of 
 day-schools for Hindoo girls in this region the 
 Rev. Mr. Richards says, "To Mrs. Bishop is due 
 the credit of having established the first of these." 
 She has a boarding-school also, and altogether 
 there seems much life in this mission. Every one 
 was stirring when we arrived, for morning is a 
 busy time in a mission -house. School work 
 among boys and girls was going on. At eight a 
 service was held in the church, a handsome build- 
 ing, which stands within the walls of the exten- 
 sive compound. An hour with pundits followed, 
 for the ladies are busv with the native langua<re. 
 Afterwards I was amused to see the elder Miss 
 Coleman, who is a homoeopathic doctor, enter 
 with a great trayful of tiny bottles of globules and 
 tinctures. She had been busy with her patients, 
 who this week have already numbered 600. Some 
 of them come great distances to be treated, and 
 her art is already gaining for her an entrance and 
 influence among the people. She and her sister 
 have been here only for a few months. Mr. Bish- 
 op has procured a site whereon they are building 
 a school, which we visited later; and a bungalow 
 for themselves they hope also to accomplish in 
 lime. 
 
 But it is always the same stor>'. Here, as 
 
324 SCKXKS IX SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 e\'cry\v]iere, the mission is cramped for want of 
 funds. IMuch might be done if there were only 
 money wherewith to do it. This is the cv}' every- 
 where, which is very sad to hear when there is so 
 much money in our Christian country, abundance 
 to spend on everything under the sun except on 
 the rescue of these perishing ones ! What is an 
 isolated mission like this to do, for example, where 
 there are so few Europeans to help, unless it is 
 helped largely and liberally from home ? Surely 
 the spirit of philanthropy, not to speak of anything 
 higher, might come in to stir men's minds in re- 
 gard to what might be done to raise and civilize 
 and Christianize these poor people. 
 
 What, for example, can one missionary family 
 accomplish in a place like Trichoor to stem this 
 torrent of idolatry and superstition which has 
 gathered such fearful force during the ages? I 
 am persuaded that my countrymen are only ignor- 
 ant of facts when they speak of missions as they 
 do and are so careless regarding them. 
 
 I am reminded of a conversation I had not 
 long ago, in a large city in India, with a gentle- 
 man of high position who was pleased to call 
 upon us. My husband was out, and the gentle- 
 man told me he had heard him preach the niglit 
 before and wanted to thank him, "for he had 
 opened his eyes a little." 
 
TRICHOOR. 
 
 "I have always understood," he said, "that 
 missions are an acknowledged failure. From Dr. 
 Mitchell's facts, however, I think I must be 
 wrong. I wanted to ask him about it." 
 
 I did my best to give him the information I 
 saw he lacked, and then I asked him if he had 
 seen none of the mission work going on so exten- 
 sively in this very city. No, he had not heard of 
 it. I named several well-known, able mission- 
 aries having schools and colleges and native 
 Christian congregations. Had he seen none of 
 them ? We had seen them, though only staying 
 a few days in the place. Did he know none of 
 these men? He thought he had heard of them, 
 but the truth was he had accepted the conclu- 
 sion that missions had failed and so gave himself 
 no further trouble on the subject. He had seen 
 nothing, knew nothing, had not cared to inquire, 
 and yet he quietly pronounced the judgment, 
 " Missions are a failure." Did he know that but 
 for these despised missions multitudes of men who 
 are now good Christian citizens would be heathen 
 still ? He took leave of me with the utmost kind- 
 ness, and is now one of the best friends and most 
 liberal supporters missions have. 
 
 A lady in Ireland said to a friend of mine the 
 other day, "Do not believe a word of all this about 
 zenanas. It is all humbug." And I found that 
 
326 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 this person, although for years in India, had never 
 once set foot within the walls of the zenanas, nor 
 had seen anything of the dreary lives which are 
 lived in them nor the work our zenana mission- 
 aries seek to do; and yet she dared so to pronounce 
 upon it! The piteous cry of India's down-trodden 
 women had clearly reached neither the ear nor 
 the heart of this daughter of favored Christian 
 Britain. 
 
 If my countrymen and countr>'Women while in 
 India would only look with more interest and sym- 
 pathy into the condition of the poor people among 
 whom their lot is cast for the time; if they would 
 seek out the missionaries, who may be too busy 
 to seek them out, and enter somewhat into their 
 work, taking an intelligent. Christian, or even 
 philanthropic interest in it, I venture to promise 
 that the benefit and pleasure would tell in two 
 ways. In blessing they themselves would be 
 blessed. India would no longer look like a place 
 of exile to them, and they would cease to long for 
 the moment when they might quit its shores. If 
 they shared in the sowing, they would also share 
 in the joy of reaping. 
 
 I once knew a gentleman who hated the na- 
 tives, spoke of them as "niggers," and judged the 
 whole nation by a rascally "boy" he had had in 
 his service. He was induced by his wife one day 
 
TRICHOOR. 
 
 to come to a school-gathering we had in the com- 
 pound, simply because it was presented to him in 
 the light of a garden-party; and he was greatly 
 struck with what he saw, especially with the 
 sweet singing of the girls, and with a dear little 
 child who repeated her verse standing on a chair: 
 
 "Jesus, tender Shepherd, hear me, 
 Bless thy little lamb to-night; 
 Through the darkness be thou near me, 
 Watch my sleep till morning light." 
 
 He was so struck and affected by this that he be- 
 came one of the staunchest friends of the people 
 and of the mission and seemed to get a large 
 blessing to his own soul. 
 
 There is a considerable body of Syrian Chris- 
 tians in Trichoor, and my husband has been out 
 with Mr. Bishop interviewing some of them. 
 They belong chiefly to the body of Romo-Syrians; 
 that is, those who still adhere to the Church of 
 Rome. But there is a division among them. 
 IMany began to groan under the tyranny, real or 
 supposed, of the Vicar Apostolic, who is a Euro- 
 pean. Discontent was rife, and disputes and di- 
 vision followed. So a split occurred, and a strong 
 party seceded under the guidance and leadership 
 of Bishop Melius. He is, unhappily, absent, hav- 
 ing left two days ago for the Persian Gulf. 
 
 Some say that this movement is political. I 
 would call it national. It is Asia against Europe, 
 
328 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 SO some declare. But the bishop seems to be an 
 enlightened man and a reformer. He rejects the 
 dogma of the infallibility of the pope, wishes that 
 the Bible should be read by the people, and is 
 friendly with Protestants. There is no doubt too 
 that he and his party long after the spiritual inde- 
 pendence which the Syrians proper enjoy. The 
 party is strong numerically, from 5,000 to 6,000, 
 but does not seem to be strong otherwise. The 
 people lack moral force; they are weak and waver- 
 ing ; and the future of this movement does not 
 seem to be very assured. 
 
 The gentlemen called on the dignitary who is 
 doing duty for the bishop in his absence and 
 found him pleasant and friendly. They had a 
 long talk, and then he took them to the church 
 and showed them all they wished to see. There 
 are some good pictures, one or two images of the 
 Virgin and the Virgin and Child, also crucifixes, 
 many candles, and much gilding and decoration — 
 not at all like the simple old church and worship 
 we saw at Cottayam. 
 
 Thus there seem to be five parties in the Syri- 
 an Church: the original Syrians, the Reforming 
 party, the Anglican, the Romo-Syrians, and this 
 seceding party under Bishop Melius. 
 
 After this visit, as my husband wanted to see 
 the Sanscrit College, which is rather a famous 
 
TRICHOOR. 
 
 one, they walked on towards it. But across tlie 
 entrance to the street where it stands behold a 
 barrier! "What is this?" asked Dr. Mitchell, 
 who has had to do with Sanscrit colleges all his 
 days. The Brahnians gathered round in great 
 numbers and warned the intruders off. No Euro- 
 pean had ever been allowed to set foot in these 
 sacred courts. 
 
 It was the same in Poona, in the great Sanscrit 
 College there, before the spirit of progress and 
 enlightenment had entered that city, once the 
 hot-bed of Brahmanism. But this was fifty years 
 ago. Since then a missionary has been asked to 
 act as principal of it. But now it is sad to go 
 back all these fifty years, Trichoor, indeed, is 
 behind its age. My husband spoke kindly to the 
 Brahmans, though with a little sarcasm, got them 
 to laugh, and quoted the Shastras, but all to no 
 purpose. He then requested to be shown where 
 the principal lived, and was escorted by crowds 
 to a place where he was received outside by a fine 
 old Brahman, who was naked to the waist and 
 shining all over with oil. He had been freshly 
 anointed, and on his bald, unctuous head he had 
 a sacred cord curiously arranged. He was a mild, 
 courteous old man, and received the two gentle- 
 men with the greatest politeness — though, all the 
 same, he would not let them enter the college. 
 
330 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 He was learned and showed an extensive ac- 
 quaintance with Sanscrit lore, and was rich with- 
 al, teaching only for the love of it. 
 
 There is a peculiarly sacred pagoda here, 
 which we saw standing apart on its hilltop as 
 we drove about in the evening. Like the college, 
 no European, and no one of low caste either, may 
 set foot even on the hill, far less within the tem- 
 ple. One day an unlucky Englishman, not being 
 aware of his disability, walked up to the gateway, 
 which, of course, barred his further progress. 
 Immediately there was a tremendous commotion. 
 The man had to take to his heels, a complaint 
 was sent in to Government, and much money had 
 to be expended in order that the desecrated tem- 
 ple might undergo purification. 
 
 One thing is pretty plain from all this — that 
 no one has yet got quite behind the scenes, so to 
 speak, in these curious, benighted little States. 
 Things are still as they have been for ages. Brah- 
 manism and Brahmans are untouched, everything 
 connected with them being still hermetically 
 sealed to all closer inquiry and investigation. 
 Who would believe that, numerically, they are 
 much the smallest portion of the population, while 
 the Christians, who have as yet so little influence 
 in comparison, are about a fifth of the whole peo- 
 ple? A large field presents itself here to anti- 
 
TRICIIOOR. 331 
 
 quarian research as well as to the missionary. 
 What curious questions there are for solution ! 
 Who can solve the problem how the barred por- 
 tals are to be unlocked and truth in all its many- 
 colored lights and its many-sided blessings may 
 be let in on this reat darkness? 
 
 After a day of untiring interest and great en- 
 joyment in this busy missionary abode we pre- 
 pared to resume our travels, now approaching a 
 termination. Late in the evening, as soon as the 
 moon rose, we took our places in three little bul- 
 lock-bandies of the rough, common country sort 
 and made a very droll cavalcade. It did seem 
 odd that three gharis should be needed for three 
 people; but when the queer little machines drew 
 up in front of the veranda it was quite manifest 
 that Mr. Bishop was right in insisting that we 
 must have one apiece. They are very long, but 
 very narrow and canoe-shaped, with high wheels 
 and arched roof, thatched as usual with dried 
 palm leaf. In the well-like bottom one individ- 
 ual could repose with tolerable comfort, but cer- 
 tainly not two. Joseph and his baskets were put 
 into the first, I burrowed in a heap of straw in 
 the second, and my husband, as guardian of the 
 party, brought up the rear. Amid the kindli- 
 est adieus from the whole assembled mission cir- 
 cle — master, mistress, ladies, servants, native 
 
332 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 Christians, all — we plunged from the brightness 
 of many candles in many hands into the darkness 
 and silence of the night. The bullocks were 
 meek as usual, and after one or two feeble at- 
 tempts to turn their heads to their stables, at length 
 accepted their fate and took to the road. 
 
 Happily it was a glorious night. The rising 
 moon gleamed through the trees in a shimmer of 
 silver light, throwing shadows across the road. 
 It seemed one long avenue fringed and canopied 
 by magnificent trees, which stood outlined against 
 the illuminated sky with lovely effect. We some- 
 times passed through what seemed to be dense 
 forests as well as low-lying jungles; while along 
 our route the giant forest pillars supported a grand 
 cathedral roof of interlacing, over-arching boughs. 
 I do not know if it would look so fine in daylight, 
 but now it seemed as if we were passing through 
 one of Jehovah's most majestic temples. I am 
 afraid I lost some of the beauty, for "tired na- 
 ture" demanded her "sweet restorer," and even 
 the bumping and rattle and general perversity of 
 bullocks and drivers were all alike unavailing to 
 keep me awake. The rear-guard, my poor hus- 
 band, was much worse off. He dared not sleep 
 or the whole cavalcade would go to sleep together, 
 and we wanted to catch the morning train at Sho- 
 ranoor. So he walked a good deal, with a for- 
 
TRICHOOR. 
 
 333 
 
 midable-looking stick in his hand, keeping the 
 sleepy men to their duty. This seemed to con- 
 sist in jerking the poor beasts' tails, for the tail to 
 the bullock is like the rudder to the ship. On 
 the whole, we were not sorr}^ when at daybreak 
 we reached Shoranoor. We joined the hot, dusty 
 train when it came up, and notwithstanding our 
 misadventures, I confess I almost regretfully bade 
 a last adieu to a bullock-bandy. We halted at 
 Pothanoor for an hour, where there is a fine sta- 
 tion, and before the day grew very hot we had 
 arrived at Coimbatore. 
 
334 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 COIMBATORE. 
 
 I AM sitting ill a low chair in a huge room, 
 shady from a deep, bowery veranda, a cool air 
 stealing gently in and a delicious sense of soli- 
 tude and repose stealing as gently over the spirit. 
 It is delightfully cool; such a contrast to the 
 steamy, soaking heat of the low-lying lands and 
 waters from whence we have come. This is a 
 vast plain, one thousand four hundred feet higher 
 than the sea-level ; so we can breathe again, 
 though it would be impossible to tell how tired 
 we are. One's energies all seem to have oozed 
 out in the great steam-bath below. Indeed we 
 are both so used up in every sense that we are 
 making up our minds to leave part of the tour 
 we had mapped out for ourselves — to be overtaken 
 when, please God, we return to the plains as soon 
 as the hot season is over — and to proceed now to 
 the hills. 
 
 We were met at the station this morning by 
 Mr. Hooker, a young missionary of the London 
 Missionary Society, who has quite lately joined 
 the band of workers here, and is by no means yet, 
 
COIMBATORE. 
 
 335 
 
 as I tell him, out of his griffinhood. The older 
 missionary, Mr. Hutchison, is now, with his 
 wife and family, ou the Neilgherry Hills. Mr. 
 Hooker and a friend live in this bungalow in most 
 pleasant bachelor fashion. I confess to a strong 
 liking for bachelor's quarters; there is the perfect 
 freedom and unconventionality which suits people 
 of busy habits and nomadic propensities. Mr. 
 Hooker is full of enthusiasm about his work, and 
 he and Dr. Mitchell are now deep in missionary 
 economics in the library adjoining, the murmur 
 of their voices, in chorus with the birds, breaking 
 on the noontide silence. 
 
 There is a flourishing zenana mission here 
 conducted by two ladies from home. They spent 
 last evening with us, and early this morning they 
 took me to see some of their work. The schools 
 imfortunately are in recess, the hot season holi- 
 days having commenced ; so we hope to see more 
 as we return. The gentlemen, who went early 
 into the city to talk to the people and preach 
 through a native Christian interpreter, arranged 
 to meet us at the native church, a fine, substan- 
 tial, large building with some interesting monu- 
 ments and tablets on the walls telling of departed 
 missionaries. I had plenty of time to see every- 
 thing and talk to the matron of the boarding- 
 school, for the gentlemen were long in appear- 
 
336 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 ing. At length they came up walking and very 
 much dust-begrimed. The pony, who is as ener- 
 getic as his master, had set oflf at a gallop round 
 a sharp corner, upset the phaeton, and sent the 
 poor gentlemen sprawling on the road. Happi- 
 ly it was not far to fall as the machine is low, 
 and they are none the worse; but I\Ir. Hooker 
 cannot get over his discomfiture at the impropri- 
 ety of his pet pony treating his reverend guest 
 with such terrible irreverence ! 
 
 Coimbatore is an important and beautiful sta- 
 tion lying on this elevated plateau with air its 
 grand expansiveness. In the dim distance there 
 are great ranges of dark purple mountains and 
 Ootacamund is only fifty miles ofi". Towards the 
 mountains are dense forests of valuable woods. 
 The fragrant sandalwood is there, also the ma- 
 hogany, blackwood, teak, Jack, and many others. 
 
 In these glades the wild beasts of the forests 
 naturally delight to disport themselves. There are 
 great herds of wild elephants, besides the tiger, 
 leopard, wolf, bear, and others; and so there are 
 famous hunting grounds within reach. The plain 
 waves with fine crops of varied sorts, not now the 
 paddy-field of the low country, and there is little 
 rice, but abundance or pea, cotton, hemp, sugar- 
 cane, and tobacco, while the coffee, cinchona, and 
 tea occupy the higher grounds. 
 
COIMBATORE. 337 
 
 Altogether, I fancy there is no place more at- 
 tractive, or better suited for European settlers, in 
 all India than this breezy healthful plateau, with 
 its grand neighborhood of mountains towering 
 yonder to the skies. 
 
 I most deeply grieve to have to add, regarding 
 the promising young missionary of whom I have 
 been speaking, that very soon after we had seen 
 him Mr. Hooker caught fever among the swamps 
 of the Backwater after the monsoon had set in; 
 the disease soon ran its course, and he went away 
 to his Saviour before had completed his first year 
 in India. 
 
 Scenea In Soutliem loUla. 
 
 22 
 
338 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 THE NEILGHERRIES. 
 
 CooNooR, March 17. 
 
 I HAVE neglected my journal in rather a shame- 
 ful way since our arrival in this little earthly 
 paradise. I can do nothing but feast on the 
 beauty which surrounds us and drink in the fresh 
 scented air and the quiet and the perfect sense 
 of rest, mingling with it all a deep thankfulness 
 to our gracious God who has so lovingly watched 
 over us and brought us in safety hither. 
 
 It is quite impossible to resist the fascination 
 of this place, which enslaves you from the mo- 
 ment you set foot above the Ghat, and only grows 
 and grows as you explore and wander through 
 the bewildering by-paths and find out new charms 
 at every turn. I confess that since we came we 
 have both simply 
 
 "... wandered away and away 
 With Nature, the dear old nurse ;" 
 
 and no one would wonder, for we are on the love- 
 liest of hilltops, the famed Neilgherries, the Blue 
 Mountains, as the name means. 
 
 It seenied so curious at first, and almost too 
 
THE NEILGHERRIES. 
 
 339 
 
 good to be believed, that we had not to pack up 
 and set out on a new tramp; that we had actually 
 three whole months before us wherein to be quiet 
 here "apart" and rest. Yet it is wonderful how 
 perfectly we have settled down to sedate life after 
 the long period we have just passed through of 
 such delightful vagrancy. 
 
 But I must not forget that I bade you adieu 
 at Coimbatore. After a few days' stay with our 
 kind bachelor friends we started one morning by 
 an early train, and were soon speeding across the 
 plain towards a giant wall of purple battlements 
 which stretched before us and towered grandly to 
 the sky. These soon stopped our further progress, 
 for as yet there is not a railway line scaling the 
 wall, as on the Western Ghats from the Konkan 
 to the Deccan. As we drew towards the terminus 
 we spied a long line of queer-looking machines 
 drawn up evidently for the accommodation of pos- 
 sible travellers. These were tongas^ a vehicle 
 somewhat like a high-wheeled rough dogcart, 
 very strong, with a capacious well situated be- 
 tween the front and back seats. We soon en- 
 gaged one of these, and while we had our break- 
 fast Joseph stowed our possessions in the well, 
 mounting rugs and quilts on the splash-boards. 
 A droll turn-out it looked. A pair of lean, small, 
 dun-colored tattoos (country ponies), with high cur- 
 
2^0 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 ricle-liarness, were brought out, and after much 
 persuasion in the shape of kicks and blows they 
 were induced to let themselves be attached to the 
 vehicle. We took our seats behind, while Joseph 
 mounted beside the driver, and after a splutter and 
 dash and sundry eccentric movements from the 
 hind legs of the cantankerous little beasts, which 
 hurt their heels, poor things, far more than the 
 strong machine, we were off up to the Ghat like the 
 wind. How we flew ! But the driver was much 
 too experienced in the ways of his kittle-cattle to 
 listen to our expostulations and let them slacken 
 speed for an instant, even at the steepest parts. 
 Had he done so, we should all, probably, have 
 gone over the precipice. So he dexterously 
 guided them round the sharp corners of the ter- 
 raced ascent, and after a very short run the pant- 
 ing, steaming beasts were reined in at a siding 
 and their places taken by another pair, their ex- 
 act counterpart. The little pantomime with the 
 heels was repeated and we were off again. This 
 occurred every two or three miles. Thus we 
 made the grand ascent of some 6,000 feet, and a 
 good while before darkness came we had got to 
 the goal — the top of the delectable Ncilgherries. 
 
 At first the glare was blinding and the hot, 
 white dust intolerable. The fiery rays of the 
 noonday sun seemed to scorch us as they radiated 
 
THE NEILGHERRIES. 
 
 from the rocky walls which rose sheer from the 
 side of the white road. The trees and jungle 
 looked parched and drooping, every leaf being 
 powdered with the fine penetrating dust. We 
 were soon as white as the bushes and our eyes 
 ached from the scintillating rays. But erelong 
 we rose above all these little troubles in every 
 sense and got into regions where all things be- 
 came new. The air grew cool and pure ; the 
 white-heat look died out of the sky, now a deep 
 fathomless blue, absolutely without a cloud. The 
 upland slopes were clothed with sJiola of the fresh- 
 est green. And, "What is that low, scrubby bush 
 which now covers the hillsides ? That is surely 
 tea?" we inquired of our intelligent driver. We 
 were right; it was our old acquaintance, the low- 
 ly tea shrub. Next came coffee, a larger shrub, 
 with larger, darker leaf, but trained to grow 
 rather low for the better development of the 
 berry. There was also the cinchona, with its 
 large beautiful leaf All these seemed to be ex- 
 tensively cultivated and covered vast reaches on 
 the hillsides. Occasionally we passed the white 
 bungalow of a planter and his little settlement, 
 including the long line of huts for the coolies 
 who work the estate, and then a few quaint little 
 hamlets of curiously shaped huts, probably the 
 villages of the wilder races who inhabit the hills. 
 
342 SCENES IN SOUTIIICRN INDIA. 
 
 How lovely it grew as we ascended ! Noon 
 was long passed and the shadows from rock and 
 liill lay peaceful and soft across the road and be- 
 neath the trees. Every spur we skirted and every 
 ascent we made the scenery became more beauti- 
 ful. Giant forms near and far lay massed against 
 the sky, glowing with the amber light of even- 
 ing, while valleys and ravines, filled with dark, 
 rich foliage, reposed in deepest shadow. Beauti- 
 ful woods in every variety of tint, from the light- 
 est green to the dark dress of the cypress and cas- 
 uarina, now crowned many an eminence, while 
 rounded hilltops and lofty summits or precipitous 
 brown crags, whose rugged sides shone like bur- 
 nished copper in the rays of the setting sun, reared 
 themselves grandly over the woods. Pretty, pic- 
 turesque houses surrounded by gardens were now 
 more common, many of them beautifully situated. 
 We were evidently nearing the summit. We 
 made a long descent into a valley, crossed a 
 pretty bridge over a brawling torrent, sped up 
 the ascent on the other side, turned into an ave- 
 nue bounded by pink and white roses, which sent 
 waves of sweet fragrance down to us and long 
 sprays loaded with the exquisite clusters, and 
 stopped before a long, low bungalow. A tidy 
 "boy" in a clean white turban and speaking 
 English perfectly rushed out to welcome us. 
 
THE NEILGHERRIES. 
 
 343 
 
 We were now in Davidson's excellent and 
 comfortable hotel, but, to our delight, W'e found 
 we had as yet a whole bungalow to ourselves. It 
 is well named Belmont, for it stands beautifully. 
 The house is on the top of a small plateau in the 
 midst of an amphitheatre of distant hills. We 
 have a terraced garden which goes to the edge of 
 a deep ravine, across which we look at some grand 
 summits crowned with the prettiest Swiss-looking 
 houses and fine trees. On the left there is an un- 
 dulating ridge with one or two higher points and 
 a lovely bit of brown-green slope quite bare of 
 trees. Then to the front there is a cleft, an open- 
 ing through which you see a bit of the far-away 
 plains set in a lovely framework of many-tinted 
 green, and then to the right we have the Droog, 
 a magnificent headland, which I must speak about 
 again. The shola and woods which fill the valley 
 in front are not too high to obstruct our view, 
 but make the loveliest foreground. No words 
 can say how exquisite it is in the morning as we 
 stand on the steps to gaze before setting out on 
 our explorations; the sunbeams dance and sparkle 
 in the foliage and veils of blue vapor break and 
 curl in airy wreaths; and the birds sing and the 
 butterflies flit about, and there is the sound of rip- 
 pling water, which is my husband's supreme de- 
 light. Altogether " the lines have fallen to us in 
 
344 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 p'lcasant places," and our hearts overflow with 
 thankfulness. 
 
 We have found many friends here and much 
 Christian work going on, into which it is a delight 
 to throw ourselves heart and soul. The bishop 
 and Mrs. Speechly are here, Mr. Harcourt and 
 Mr. Kember, of Palamcotta, also the Neves and 
 many other dear friends. We have been specially 
 glad to meet Dr. Jared Scudder, of the Arcot 
 Mission, in connection with the Dutch Reformed 
 Church in America, with his wife and family. 
 There is a small branch of the mission in Coonoor 
 and a chapel, and though there is no missionary 
 resident all the year through there is a young 
 native pastor in charge, and Dr. Scudder takes 
 the supervision and works here himself during 
 the hot months. Every one knows the Scudders; 
 they are a missionary family and a remarkable 
 one. The first missionary of the name, Dr. John 
 Scudder, had seven sons and a daughter, all of 
 whom became missionaries, and most have work- 
 ed in the Arcot district. Several of them became 
 doctors and there is at least one grandson who is 
 also a doctor and a missionary. What an hon- 
 ored race! Dr. Jared Scudder is a vigorous, able, 
 hearty man with great force of character and in- 
 tensely earnest. In Arcot and Vellore the native 
 Christians number over three thousand souls. 
 
THE XEILGHERRIES. 
 
 345 
 
 Mission work has also been carried on for a 
 number of years among the aboriginal races on 
 the hills, chiefly by the German mission in the 
 Kaity Valley, which lies between Coonoor and 
 Ootacamund, but I shall be able to tell more 
 about these interesting wild people by-and-by. 
 The Messrs. Staines, who are owners of extensive 
 tea and coffee estates here, are at the head of 
 much Christian effort for the Eiiropean residents, 
 and there is a nice little chapel built by them, 
 where we have regular service, conducted by our 
 friend the Rev. Mr. Rowe. There is a handsome 
 English church, also a chaplain. 
 
 MARCH 29. 
 
 It is early morning, the pure, fresh, dewy, 
 glorious Indian morning, and, as usual, we have 
 risen with the sun and come out to enjoy it. In- 
 deed, the sun is hardly up yet, though the eastern 
 horizon is flushed a rosy pink in glad anticipation 
 of his coming. The air is crisp and invigorating, 
 so cool that woollen clothes are comfortable, and 
 yet so sweet and genial that you are reminded of 
 a balmy May-day in the Riviera. We have each 
 an armful of books, some papers and pencils, and 
 a good glass, with broad hats and white umbrellas, 
 for we do not breakfast till ten and it is cool under 
 the trees until that hour. I am also provided 
 with a basket to be filled by-and-by from the 
 
346 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 treasures of the woods and hedgerows as well as 
 from the bright flower-beds which surround our 
 hotel doors. 
 
 What should we in India do without these 
 delicious morning hours, when mind and soul as 
 well as body seem awake and able to rise a little 
 above the earthly and material, the heat and las- 
 situde — when one's spirit at least tries to "mount 
 up with wings as eagles" and see something of 
 the glory of the great Artificer in His glorious 
 works ! It is true in a very literal sense here 
 that "joy cometh with the morning." And this 
 "sweet hour of prime" is especially sweet on 
 these lovely blue hills. 
 
 Our favorite perch, where I am now writing, 
 is a rustic seat beneath a dark spreading old 
 cedar on the edge of another slope to the right of 
 the bungalow, from which we look across a deep 
 wide valley, through the usual feathery screen of 
 many-tinted foliage, to the grand summits which 
 rise on the other side. At our feet, far down in 
 the valley, a dancing stream with merry voice 
 rattles over its rough boulder-bed, while on its 
 banks, rising from it all over the slopes, lies the 
 picturesque little Bazar, or native town of Coo- 
 noor. The houses and shops and sheds, in all the 
 brilliance of fresh whitewash — for the season is 
 just beginning — are scattered about as if dropped 
 
THE NEILGHERRIES. 
 
 347 
 
 at random, perched at different elevations wher- 
 ever they can find standing-room. The pretty 
 little white mission church stands half way up 
 opposite to us; on another elevation there is the 
 low structure with pointed roof which answers 
 for both schoolroom and chapel, where we have 
 our delightful servdces on Sundays and week- 
 days. A few more pretentious buildings there 
 are, including the Postoffice, the Station Library, 
 and a few "stores" of the most comprehensive 
 character. Down at the bottom of the valley two 
 pretty bridges span the torrent, which has a hand- 
 breadth of green common on either side, where 
 some droll little brown tailless sheep nibble the 
 scanty grass, ducks and geese cackle, and people 
 begin to congregate in little groups ready for the 
 shandy^ or morning market. 
 
 Turning round a little we have the tower of 
 the beautiful station church rising over the dark 
 foliage of the cypress-trees which surround it — a 
 lovely spot, which attracts one most in the pen- 
 sive, quiet hours of evening when the sun is set- 
 ting behind the western ranges. Then, far up on 
 the crests as well as low in the valleys, the white 
 bungalows of European residents gleam out from 
 amid the rich greenery of the shola^ or beautiful 
 natural woods — one of the chief beauties of the 
 hills. The blue gum or eucalyptus has been ex- 
 
348 
 
 SCENES IN 
 
 SOUTHERN 
 
 INDIA. 
 
 tensively planted and is to be seen everywhere in 
 clumps and belts or in the midst of other wood. 
 It is here in every tint and at every age, from the 
 baby shrub in its broad, bright, blue, shining leaves 
 to the tall, gaunt, sombre, rather tattered-looking 
 veteran of the tribe. Fruit-trees also abound, 
 especially the peach, and we have plenty of straw- 
 berries and also home vegetables. The hotel gar- 
 den is almost a peach orchard, the branches 
 weighed down with the wealth of ripening fruit. 
 
 The Australian "wattle," a kind of mimosa, 
 very like the beautiful tree on the Riviera, spreads 
 like a weed, resisting every effort to restrain it, 
 and with its feathery leaves of a blue-green tint 
 forms delicate screens, through which you see the 
 dark browns and russets and deep crimson of the 
 rocks and ridges which tower behind. Farther 
 away the hillsides are now white with the coffee 
 blossom, which has burst into sudden though 
 evanescent beauty, every plant seeming as if pow- 
 dered with purest snow. In a few days this will 
 disappear and give place again to the unrelieved 
 dark green of the glossy leaves. Cofifee estates 
 are now numerous over the hills; also tea-gardens 
 and plantations of the precious and beautiful cin- 
 chona shrub. 
 
 Then again, beyond the nearer spurs, you look 
 away to a never-ending succession of billow}-, un- 
 
THE NEILGHERRIES. 
 
 349 
 
 dulating hilltops, absolutely irregular iu shape, 
 and now and then rising to abrupt headlands and 
 sharp, lofty ridges. Among the former the grand, 
 massive form of the giant Droog towers conspicu- 
 ous. It is crowned with the ruins of a fort and 
 watch-towers, which were occupied by Hyder Ali 
 and Tippoo-Sultan during the troublous times at 
 the close of the last century; and many are the 
 tales still told of the wild doings of these fierce 
 Mussulman warriors. Sheer down from the Droog 
 we again catch a glimpse of the plains, broken 
 into countless patches of bright color — for this is 
 all the fields look like six thousand feet below. 
 They gleam in the sunlight like a vast flooring of 
 brilliant mosaic. But the chief charm, I think, 
 in this part of the hills is the way in which the 
 summits are broken and intersected by clefts and 
 ravines and the loveliest valleys, all filled with 
 a wealth of luxuriant vegetation of the richest 
 beauty. The variety of tint among the trees and 
 in the shola is wonderful, and the delicate blue of 
 the young gum-trees gives a softness to the mass 
 of darker foliage. The effects are indescribably 
 beautiful, especially when as now in the early 
 morning bright arrows of light from the rising 
 sun pierce the green depths and sparkle like myr- 
 iad gems among the interlacing boughs. Every 
 leaf seems to have "its ain drap o' dew." A 
 
350 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 tender haze floats dreamily about and cloud- 
 shadows still linger on the slopes. The sound of 
 rippling water from the numerous little streams 
 and burnies which come down from the higher 
 points makes sweet music, mingling with the 
 choruses of happy birds, the joyous hum of bees, 
 and the noisy gambols of the brisk little squirrels. 
 An active little green lizard, with beadlike eyes, 
 has just darted round the tree, wondering to find 
 his domain invaded. 
 
 But a devoted friend of mine, a magnificent 
 collie, has just laid his nose in my lap and fixed 
 his beseeching, soft eyes on mine, saying it is 
 time to go for a stroll. The air is full of aromatic 
 scent of the gum-trees, mingled with the perfume 
 of roses and heliotrope and "flowers of all hue" 
 which abound in lavish profusion. Every house 
 has its garden, and the verandas are bowery with 
 trailers and creepers and beautiful orchids, while 
 the avenues and drives are adorned with rare trees 
 and evergreens and flowering shrubs in endless 
 variety. The tall tree-fern and tree-rhododendron 
 are especially beautiful; the latter is still covered 
 with its gorgeous blossom, at once so delicate in 
 hue and so rich in effect. Even the public roads 
 contribute to the beauty, being skirted by high 
 hedgerows of China and cluster roses — pink, red, 
 and white. Heliotrope hedges also abound, from 
 
THE NEILGHERRIES. 
 
 which yoti can gather a sheaf of the fragrant 
 flowers without its being missed; and many a 
 winding little by-path, leading to some bonnie 
 bit in the woods carpeted with mosses and ferns, 
 is edged with the scarlet and sweet-scented gera- 
 nium. The whole place is intersected with cap- 
 ital roads — carriage roads, private roads, bridle 
 paths, and labyrinthine tracks and trails. At 
 every turn some fresh view presents itself, each 
 one finer than the last, of these wondrous, ever- 
 lasting hills. You feel you can hardly resist the 
 impulse to kneel down and worship God in his 
 own grand temple among the glorious things 
 which are his own handiwork. 
 
 One "thing of beauty" I have never seen 
 exactly the same anywhere else is the fascina- 
 ting, ethereal, indescribable haze or vapor I have 
 already spoken of; I hardly know what to call it. 
 It is as if the air were tinted a deep blue, so deli- 
 cate and gossamer are its shadowy veils, which 
 linger on the slopes or lie in the hollows or float 
 low in the valleys among the foliage, and the 
 effect amid the sunlit green is beyond description 
 lovely. 
 
 Such is our beautiful Coonoor, though in truth 
 half has not been told. Ootacamund lies some 
 twelve miles away, on the western slopes of the 
 Dodabetta range — the highest in South India. 
 
352 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 This well-known capital occupies a higher pla- 
 teau than Coonoor, though the difference of some 
 two thousand feet hardly accounts for the great 
 change in climate, Ooty, as it is popularly called, 
 being much colder. Here the vegetation is semi- 
 tropical and the scenery rich and varied, as I have 
 described. About Ootacamund there is a succes- 
 sion of open, breezy downs, and the air is fresh 
 and bracing, reminding one of the fine "caller 
 air" of our own dear heather hills at home. 
 
 There is indeed a wonderful charm about these 
 Blue Mountains. It is not that they transcend all 
 others in grandeur and sublimity; the Himalayas 
 have loftier peaks and more stupendous precipices; 
 ttiey have also their everlasting snows. The 
 Ghats of Western India are more picturesque, with 
 their jagged, pointed peaks, rocky ridges, and 
 varied and fantastic forms, while these hills have 
 nearly always the same blue ranges, with their 
 rounded, undulating tops. And yet for loveliness 
 and general fascination, for softness and all attrac- 
 tiveness, the Neilgherries seem to me to surpass 
 all other hill resorts I have seen. I yield the 
 palm to them, and must be allowed to say in the 
 words of the quaint old Scottish ballad, 
 
 " Of all the hills the sun kens, 
 Bcautifulk'st these !" 
 
THE TODAS AND A TODA-MUND. 353 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 THE TODAS AND A TODA-MUND. 
 
 But the Blue Mountains have other and even 
 higher interests than all this natural beauty I 
 have been speaking about. 
 
 Long ages before Mr. Sullivan, then Commis- 
 sioner of Coimbatore, and later, Lord Elphin- 
 stone, had conceived the happy idea of making 
 the Neilgherries a sanitarium and a resort for 
 Europeans from the heat of the southern plains, 
 these had known other and very different inhab- 
 itants, some of whom remain to this day, putting 
 forth the lofty claim to be still considered "lords 
 of the soil." 
 
 Among most of the mountain ranges and more 
 sequestered places in India there arc to be found 
 wild primitive people, often the aborigines of the 
 country. Among the Western Ghats we have the 
 Thakurs, Katkaries, etc. ; in the Himalayas and 
 other ranges, the Lepchas, Khasis, Oaros, and 
 others; in the jungly regions of Western Bengal 
 there are the Santals and Khols ; but of all the 
 wilder races, perhaps the Todas of the Neilgher- 
 ries are tlic most interesting and remarkable. 
 
 Br«>neB Id SouthorD Inillo. 2 % 
 
354 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 Altogether there are five diflfereut races on 
 these hills : the Todas, Badagas, Irulas, Kotas, 
 and Kurumbers. The Badagas are a fine, manly 
 race, and the most numerous, but they are hardly 
 hill-men; they were originally Hindoos, worship- 
 pers of the god Shiva, and migrated to the hills 
 from the Mysore country some three or four hun- 
 dred years ago. They are chiefly agricultural, 
 and acknowledge a kind of fealty to the Todas as 
 their feudal landlords, paying them tribute in 
 grain, which is called goodu. The Irulas are 
 scarcely hill-men either; they are a Tamil-speak- 
 ing people who live low down on the slopes, 
 though they differ in many characteristics from 
 the people of the plains. 
 
 The Todas are the least numerous of all the 
 five tribes I have named, but they are much the 
 most independent as well as the most curious in 
 their habits and ways, in their personal appear- 
 ance also, and their religious observances. The 
 question of their origin has occupied the attention 
 of antiquarians and men interested in such mat- 
 ters, and much speculation has been the result; 
 but these learned investigators are by no means of 
 one mind on the knotty point. Some hold them 
 to be of Scythian descent; others that they are 
 the descendants of some old Roman colony ; oth- 
 ers say they are Jews, and many that they arc the 
 
TOrAS. 
 
THE TODAS AND A TODA-MUND. 355 
 
 aborigines of the Neilgherries. On this point M. 
 Metz, of the Basle Evangelical Missionary Soci- 
 ety, says, in his interesting little book on these 
 tribes, ' ' If you ask me who are the Todas, I am 
 obliged to answer I cannot tell. I am satisfied 
 they are not the aborigines of the Neilgherries." 
 Their own account of themselves, when my hus- 
 band questioned them, is the most striking: "We 
 have come from nowhere, our ancestors were cre- 
 ated on these hills, and these hills belong to us!" 
 They undoubtedly are an ancient race, and, as 
 people of ancient race are apt to do, hold their 
 heads very high. They look down on all the 
 other tribes and even on the Hindoos. Indeed, I 
 am not sure that the present lords of the soil, the 
 masterful white people, do not come in for a share 
 of their lofty scorn. 
 
 The hospitable kindness of some very charm- 
 ing peopie we met in Madras has just given us the 
 l)lcasure of a visit to Ootacamund and an oppor- 
 tunity of making the acquaintance of the Todas. 
 The native town of Ootacamund occupies a kind 
 of basin formed by several spurs, one of which, 
 and the prettiest, is Elk Hill, on which are the 
 beautiful house and grounds of our friends. On 
 the first evening of our stay our kind hostess took 
 us out to see something of the place. Crossing 
 the beautiful little artificial lake by the willow- 
 
356 
 
 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 bund — a causeway skirted by a thick fringe of 
 feathery willow-trees — we drove up the slopes to 
 the top of the opposite ridge. This pretty serpeu- 
 tine is quite two miles in length and adds greatly 
 to the beauty of the station. On the hillside 
 above are scattered many of the handsome resi- 
 dences of the elite of jNIadras society, among which 
 Government House is conspicuous, surrounded by 
 beautiful grounds and garden. On the margin of 
 the lake stands the graceful Gothic church of St. 
 Thomas, where the late lamented and beloved 
 governor, Mr. Adam, lies buried. Soon, leaving 
 the settlement behind, we drove along some up- 
 land stretches of brown moorland, then rounded 
 spur after spur, looking down on valleys and ra- 
 vines, some cultivated and some filled with the 
 rich dark shola. Here tea meets you everywhere; 
 coffee does not come quite so high. Cinchona is 
 also hardy and grows at the height of nine thou- 
 sand feet. At length, descending to a valley 
 round a wooded shoulder, we came on one of the 
 loveliest spots one could picture, a sort of wide 
 hollow sheltered by some hilltops, clothed witli 
 the richest sward and having some fine trees and 
 shola about, in which the evening sunlight was 
 glinting exquisitely. But what at once arrested 
 our attention was that on the sward, surrounded 
 by all this beauty, stood three or four erections, 
 
THE TODAS AND A TODA-MUND. 357 
 
 the queerest and quaintest you could conceive. 
 It was hard to believe that they were human hab- 
 itations, though some human figures sat in front, 
 quite as strange-looking as the dwellings. They 
 sat on the grass, basking in the sun, completely 
 wrapped in their blankets, nothing being visible 
 above but the heads, covered with a bush of thick, 
 coarse black hair. One or two of the heads dif- 
 fered in having a profusion of elf- like ringlets 
 round the face and neck ; these we found belonged 
 to the women. 
 
 "You have wished to see a Toda-mund," ex- 
 claimed our friend; " there is one!" 
 
 Of course we stopped, got out of the carriage, 
 and scrambled down among the bushes for a near- 
 er view. The figures stood up at our approach, 
 one or two even coming to meet us and making 
 salams, after their own odd fashion, by raising the 
 right hand to their forehead and placing the thumb 
 on the ridge of the nose. 
 
 But it was getting late and cold, and as there 
 was not time to make any satisfactory investiga- 
 tions, our friend promised that we should sec an- 
 other of these strange settlements very soon, called 
 the Marli-mund. 
 
 Accordingly, one lovely, clear, sunshiny day, 
 a carriageful of big folk and little set out to make 
 the expedition. Wc drove away several miles 
 
358 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 beyond Ootacamund, ascending higher and high- 
 er and having glorious views of the two ranges, 
 the Neilgherries and the Koondahs, and glimpses 
 afar of the Mysore plateau. We passed some plant- 
 ers' houses — nice, cosey, pretty bungalows. Com- 
 ing to the end of the carriage road, we got out and 
 walked on by a shady path through the shola and 
 speedily came to the mund, or village. As usual, 
 the Todas had chosen one of the loveliest and most 
 romantic spots for their residence. The settle- 
 ment consisted of two or three huts erected on a 
 small green eminence and surrounded by a low 
 wall of loose rough stones. We scrambled up and 
 entered the inclosure. One hut stood at the top, 
 another at the bottom, and a clean-swept open 
 court lay between, with a fireplace of two or three 
 stones at the side, on which a pot, set gypsy-like, 
 was boiling merrily. A quantity of fine, dark- 
 colored grain lay in a heap beside a hole in the 
 floor, wherein a damsel was pounding it vigor- 
 ously with a monster pestle into a sort of meal. 
 A third hut, standing a little apart, we found was 
 used as a cattle-pen, and a fourth, the most preten- 
 tious and the best built, was consecrated to the 
 Swamie, or god, and the dairy together, for with 
 the Todas the dairy is the temple. They are alto- 
 gether a pastoral people, and, like the patriarchs 
 of old, wealth with them means the possession of 
 
THE TODAS AND A TODA-MUND. 359 
 
 herds, these herds consisting entirely of buffaloes. 
 In this mund, then, there were only four huts; in 
 the first one we had seen there were five, and there 
 are seldom more in one village. The construc- 
 tion of these huts is most curious. They are built 
 of bamboos set closely together, tied with rattan, 
 plastered with mud, and then covered with a 
 thick thatch. Those we saw were about thirteen 
 feet long and scarcely so much in height. 
 
 In shape they are an arched oval, the roof 
 reaching to the ground, like the top of a monster 
 wagon, while the ends are built up with huge 
 logs of wood and resemble a filled-in archway. 
 They are substantial and arc said to be water- 
 tight. I should think they must be air-tight too, 
 for the only opening they possess is a tiny aper- 
 ture at one end about a couple of feet square, if so 
 much, which serves for door, window, chimney, 
 ventilator — everything. It seemed hard to be- 
 lieve that a grown man or woman could squeeze 
 through this Liliputian door. I got down on all- 
 fours to try and get a glimpse of the interior ; to 
 crawl in would have been too daring an exploit, 
 even if it had been possible. But I made one of 
 the women show me the mode of ingress, and it 
 was very droll to see her go flat down and wriggle 
 herself in as if she had been an eel. I confess to 
 having discovered nothing ; the place was pitch- 
 
360 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 dark, especially when I filled the aperture. But 
 my husband, who was more fortunate in his in- 
 vestigations, says that there is a fixed, low plat- 
 form at one side covered with buflfalo-skins. This 
 is the common sleeping-place, and is all the fur- 
 niture this novel habitation possesses, except a 
 few utensils for use in cooking and eating. 
 
 In such dens the whole people of a village 
 dwell. Two or three women were in the court 
 when we arrived and welcomed us with great 
 frankness and evident pleasure. Their freedom 
 of manner is certainly remarkable in Eastern 
 women; they are not in the least shy or put out, 
 even at the approach of gentlemen. The men 
 are bold and independent and never seem to 
 know what fear means. They are the finest- 
 looking wild people we have seen. The men are 
 tall, well-formed, and athletic; and the women 
 are undoubtedly handsome, erect, lithe, and would 
 be attractive if, like their Hindoo sisters, they 
 were gentle and modest and reserved in demeanor. 
 Both men and women have strongly marked fea- 
 tures, with good, aquiline noses. One fine old 
 patriarch, the head man of the village, who came 
 forward to meet us leaning on a staff as tall as 
 himself, might have sat for a portrait of Abra- 
 ham; and I often fancied from the cast of counte- 
 nance that there might be something in the theory 
 
THE TOD AS AND A TODA-MUXD. 
 
 which makes their origin Jewish — only the ex- 
 pression is open, honest, and good-hnmored. They 
 laugh loud and merrily on the slightest provoca- 
 tion. Men and women dress exactly alike, if dress 
 it can be called which consists of one garment, a 
 long blanket which envelopes them from head to 
 foot. The women are much tattooed, chiefly 
 about the neck, shoulders, and arms. Their 
 blue-black hair is curled carefully round their 
 well-shaped heads in long spiral ringlets — a re- 
 sult produced by the skilful use of small sticks 
 instead of curling-tongs — and has an irresistibly 
 ludicrous effect on the top of the blanket costume. 
 Their ornaments are very primitive: some bangles 
 made of brass or lead, dreadfully heavy, and a 
 quantity of cowrie shells curiously strung into 
 tassels, which dangle at the end of necklaces 
 made of thread, hair, or silver, according to the 
 wealth and position of the wearer. They are in- 
 veterate beggars, and do not look with favor on 
 anything but white money. A display of the 
 latter induced the women to sing us one of their 
 songs. It was a most singular, dirge-like strain, 
 executed with the teeth firmly set and closed — a 
 wild, weird, mystic kind of chant, with no music 
 in it, hardly any M ords, and the voices harsh and 
 monotonous. 
 
 They are a dirty people; they never wash 
 
362 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 either themselves or their blankets; and are ex- 
 cessively lazy. The Toda loves to sit in his blan- 
 ket in the sun, "monarch of all he surveys," and 
 eat of the produce of the soil wrought by the 
 sweat of other brows than his own. He manasfes 
 this by exacting £^oo(^n, or tribute, from the inferior 
 tribes, which, by working on their superstitions 
 in various ways, he has hitherto induced them to 
 pay. His other and chief source of revenue is 
 from his buffaloes. Every village has its own 
 special herd and its own pasture ground; and the 
 sole occupation of the men is to drive the beasts 
 to their pasture in the morning, tend them during 
 the day, and bring them home to the IMund at 
 night. But the operation of milking is very 
 sacred, and can only be performed by the pujari, 
 or village priest. He receives the herd, joins the 
 people in making obeisance to it, then proceeds 
 with the milking, and finally must himself place 
 the milk in the dairy. As I said before, the dair}' is 
 the temple, and into its sacred precincts no woman 
 is allowed to enter. The milk is made into ghee 
 and curd, and on it chiefly the people live. The 
 buffaloes are often very fierce and dangerous. 
 They attack strangers with great ferocity, espe- 
 cially white people; but happily they at once 
 obey the call or whistle of their owners, and thus 
 frequent accidents arc prevented. 
 
THE TODAS AND A TODA-MUND. 363 
 
 Although there is no caste, rightly speaking, 
 among the Todas, they are divided into families 
 or classes — I think five — who, though they eat 
 together, and otherwise fraternize, never inter- 
 marry. Polyandry still exists among them, in 
 the sense that when a woman marries, she be- 
 comes the wife of all the brothers in the family 
 she allies herself to, and her children belong to 
 the husbands by seniority. I am glad to say this 
 dreadful custom seems to be passing away, and 
 the Todas now think it more respectable that 
 each man should have his own wife, though 
 morals, I am afraid, cannot yet be said to be of 
 a hi2:h order among them. Female infanticide 
 once prevailed, but now is said to have entirely 
 ceased. 
 
 And what can one say of their worship and 
 religious observances except this, that very little 
 is known about them ? Their ideas on the sub- 
 ject of religion seem extremely vague. They 
 can scarcely be called idolaters, as they have no 
 idols, or rather images; and yet the bufialo-bell 
 of the village is held sacred and has libations of 
 milk poured out and prayers made to it. It is 
 called the Hiradeva, or Bcll-god. There is also 
 a hunting-god, whom they propitiate. He helps 
 them to kill the tigers which otherwise would 
 kill their calves. The sun is also sometimes 
 
364 SCENES IX SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 worshipped. But in truth, their milk and their 
 buffaloes are their gods, and their single compre- 
 hensive prayer seems to be, "May all be well; 
 may the buffaloes be well I" There is a high 
 priest among them, called a Palal, or head milk- 
 man. He is a most sacred personage, and lives 
 in a holy Mund, with only one attendant, called 
 a Kavilol, herdsman. A few sacred buffaloes are 
 kept for the exclusive use of this recluse, whom 
 deity is supposed to inhabit, and who exercises 
 unbounded influence over every Toda. Xo wo- 
 man may approach the sacred Mund, and no man 
 is permitted to do so without express permission, 
 and then he must address the holy man from a 
 very respectful distance. None of the tribes 
 would dare refuse him anything he might choose 
 to ask for, however unreasonable the demand, or 
 some dire calamity would certainly overtake them- 
 selves or their herds. 
 
 Their ceremonies are few, the principal ones 
 being connected with their dead. There are two 
 funeral ceremonies, one called the "green fune- 
 ral," which takes place immediately after death, 
 when the body is burned; while the other, called 
 the " dr}' funeral," is intended to commemorate 
 all who have died in a tribe within the year. 
 These festivals are full of absurdity and would 
 take too long to describe. 
 
THE TCDAS AND A TODA-MUXD. 
 
 Such, then, is the deep darkness of this sing^a- 
 lar people. The German missionaries have tried 
 to work among them and from their influence 
 and that of other Europeans there seems to be a 
 gradual dawning of civilization; but I have never 
 yet heard that a Toda has become a Christian. 
 A good many Badagas have accepted the truth 
 and there is a flourishing little congrefration of 
 Christian Badagas in connection with the Basle 
 Mission in the Kaity valley. My husband visited 
 this mission and was greatly interested in what 
 lie saw. 
 
 Our day at the Marli-mund was one not to be 
 forgotten. After a long inter%-iew with the peo- 
 ple we chose a lovely spot to encamp and rest. 
 We crept under the shade of a thick mass of 
 thorny jungle-bush with greensward below car- 
 peted with brown dn,- leaves. Here we ale our 
 lunch, after which the children lay down on rugs 
 to sleep, and we read aloud about the Todas. 
 The birds were frightened into silence at first, 
 but presently began their mern,- little carols again 
 and filled the air with melody. The wild people 
 soon discovered our retreat, and stalked up to us 
 in their long blankets, making a ring around us, 
 for by this time some of the men had returned 
 from the pasture grounds. They begged hard for 
 more white money zsgoodu. 
 
366 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 We stayed until the sun was beginning to get 
 low in the west, and then turned our faces home- 
 wards. As we drove away, a gleam shone out 
 over the picturesque little Mund as it lay on its * 
 green knoll under the shelter of the sJiola ; a deli- 
 cate gathering haze just then caught the ray and 
 was immediately alight with all the hues of the 
 rainbow. 
 
 " Surely a bow of promise !" we all exclaimed, 
 hope and promise, from the "rainbow-circled 
 throne, ' ' even for the poor Todas. 
 
 ' ' The people that walked in darkness have seen 
 a great light: they that dwell in the land of the 
 shadow of death, upon them hath the light 
 shined." So may it be speedily with all the 
 dark, degraded races of this interesting land ! 
 
HOMEWARD. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 HOMEWARD. 
 
 I MUST now take leave of my readers who 
 have kindly accompanied us in our wanderings 
 over some of the mission fields of Southern India. 
 
 Very soon after our delightful visit to Ootaca- 
 mund a severe attack of illness put an end to 
 many cherished hopes and plans. But as soon as 
 the journey to the plains wa^ possible my hus- 
 band brought me down to Bangalore. I had long 
 looked forward to a visit to this beautiful city of 
 the south ; but now I was here I was not able to 
 explore it. It is one of the pleasantest and 
 healthiest and prettiest stations in all India. It 
 has a large native city full of historic interest, 
 and an expansive European quarter, where the 
 military cantonment is, and where the English 
 residents live in handsome houses standinor in 
 lovely wooded grounds. The whole place is full 
 of natural loveliness. There are the ruins of an 
 old fort, every stone of which could tell its story 
 of fierce struggles and warlike deeds, and, I am 
 afraid, also of much cruelty and oppression. 
 Many will remember the stor>' of Sir David Baird 
 
368 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 and his captivity, regarding which his mother 
 made the memorable remark, ' ' Pity the man who 
 is chained to oor Davie!" Well, it was here poor 
 "Davie" was chained; and I think it must have 
 been even harder for the brave man to be made a 
 show and spectacle of daily for the amusement of 
 the ladies of the zenana, and to draw water for 
 them from a well which is still shown as one of 
 the curiosities of the place, than to endure even 
 the chains and the dungeon. 
 
 A far greater disappointment, however, was 
 that I could so seldom accompany my husband in 
 his visits to the missionaries and saw so little of 
 their work. Missions in Bangalore have been 
 most successful, and the schools, congregations, 
 and different operations carried on so extensively 
 in the place are full of interest. We received 
 much kindness from Mr. and Mrs. Rice, of the 
 London Missionary Society, and from many 
 others whose names I need not mention, including 
 Mr. Morrison, chaplain of the Scotch church. 
 
 But Dr. Mitchell paid a visit to our friend 
 Miss Anstey's deeply interesting Faith Mission at 
 Colar, some distance from Bangalore, and has 
 given me the following account of it: 
 
 "Colar is a town of eleven thousand inhabi- 
 tants, about forty miles from Bangalore. Mrs. 
 Mitchell was not able to visit this station, and it 
 
HOMEWARD. 
 
 falls to me to say a few words regarding the very 
 remarkable work there carried on by Miss An- 
 stey. 
 
 " Miss Anstey returned to India in the end of 
 1876, after being restored from what had seemed 
 hopeless illness. Her prayer was that she might 
 have work in training young people. Famine 
 broke out, and it was evident that multitudes of 
 children would be left destitute. She accordingly 
 settled at Colar, in the heart of the district where 
 famine was raging, and prepared to receive as 
 many orphans as might come to her. She was 
 in connection with no missionary society, had 
 not much money of her own, and had received no 
 promise of contributions. She felt, however, that 
 her call was clear. She at once ordered a house 
 to be built for the reception of seven hundred 
 orphans. Children came to her in large numbers; 
 from first to last she has received fully eleven 
 hundred. Many died, famine having terribly 
 weakened the powers of life before they arrived. 
 Some were enticed away by relatives or friends 
 when the famine ceased. Many, however, have 
 been settled — generally as married couples — on 
 little farms belonging to the mission. At present 
 (August, 1885) the number in the Orphanage is 
 about three hundred and fifty. The mission has 
 all along been conducted — to use Miss Austey's 
 
 tkcuuti lu Huullictii luUlu. 2X 
 
370 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 words — 'on the principle of looking to the Lord 
 alone for all supplies.' And the supplies have 
 been sent. The heathen have been deeply im- 
 pressed by this, and a high Government servant, 
 a Brahman, has always addressed his official let- 
 ters to 'God's Orphanage, Colar.' When I saw 
 this brave woman in the midst of her labors I 
 feared that the burden would crush her. Not the 
 financial burden; my question as to that received 
 the prompt reply : ' The Lord has provided and 
 will provide.' But there was a multitude of busi- 
 ness matters connected with the large establish- 
 ment which I felt no woman should be troubled 
 with. Still, her health has been preserved so far 
 that a short visit to Britain seems likely to restore 
 all her energies. He who has upheld and guided 
 her till now will, I doubt not, uphold and guide 
 her still." 
 
 It had been one of my dreams — though one 
 not to be realized — to see Miss Anstey and her 
 large family of poor famine orphans and their 
 home, and all her important and most arduous 
 work which is carried on by simple faith in God's 
 providing. She and her children ask in prayer 
 for what they need. Her motto is, "The Lord 
 will provide;" and he does provide, by putting it 
 into the hearts of his people to send her the 
 means — and she needs large means — to feed and 
 
HOMEWARD. 
 
 clothe and educate and set out in life her large 
 company of poor friendless children of both sexes. 
 Can we not help her a little more? Can we not 
 help all missions a little more? We can surely 
 do so by contributing more, working harder, 
 seeking to interest others, and above all, by more 
 believing prayer. Then can we not, many more 
 of us, give ourselves to the work ? For we want 
 multitudes of workers, both men and women. 
 IVIay the Spirit of God so fill our hearts with love 
 to Christ and compassion for poor India that we 
 shall go forth in far greater numbers and with 
 far more perfect consecration until we have won 
 the whole land for Him! 
 
 It might be done easily ! The whole of India 
 could be evangelized in a generation if Christian 
 people would only bestir themselves and bring 
 great and adequate means to bear on the great 
 and glorious work. And let us hope that the first 
 work of all the churches, as it would certainly be 
 the grandest, will more and more be the evangeli- 
 zation of the whole heathen world, until the idols 
 are utterly abolished and the name of Christ 
 known and honored from the rising to the setting 
 of the sun. 
 
 Our journey from Bangalore to the Deccan 
 was a trying one, there were so many changes; 
 but at length, on the i6th of June, after six 
 
372 SCENES IN SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 months' wanderings, we found ourselves once 
 more under the hospitable roof of the mission 
 house at Poona. A few weeks later and I was 
 tossing on the wild monsoon billows of the Indian 
 Ocean, homeward bound. I have bidden adieu to 
 India, sorrowing most of all because in all human 
 probability I shall see her loved face no more ! 
 
r 
 
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