PRINCETON,  N.  J. 
 
 Purchased  by  the  Hammill  Missionary  Fund. 
 
 Division  2X7.0. 
 Section  .L88 
 
 Number...  Vr...|  
 
Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
 in  2015 
 
 https://archive.org/details/haremlifeinegypt01lott 
 
THE  GOVERNESS  IN  EGYPT. 
 
 HAEEM  LIFE 
 
 IN 
 
 EGYPT  AND  CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 BY  I 
 
 emmelixe'lott, 
 
 FORMERLY  GOVERNESS  TO  HIS  HIGHNESS  THE  GRAND  PACHA, 
 IBRAHIM,  SON  OF  HIS  HIGHNESS  ISMAEL  PACHA, 
 VICEROY  OF  EGYPT. 
 
 IN  TWO  VOLUMES. 
 VOL  I. 
 
 LONDON  : 
 
 RICHARD  BENTLEY,  NEW  BURLINGTON  STREET, 
 publisher  in  (Dririirarg  to  f?tr  glajcstg. 
 1865. 
 
 [The  Right  of  Translation  is  Reserved.] 
 
DEDICATED 
 TO 
 
 HIS  HIGHNESS  ISMAEL  PACHA 
 
 $c.  8fc. 
 
 VICEROY  OF  EGYFT 
 BY 
 
 HIS    HIGHNESS'S    MOST  HUMBLE 
 AND  DEVOTED  SERVANT 
 
 THE  AUTHORESS. 
 
 October,  1865. 
 
What  precious  things  I  found  in  Oriental  lands, 
 Returning  home,  I  brought  them  in  my  votive  hands." 
 
PKEFACE. 
 
 Upwards  of  a  century  has  rolled  away  since 
 that  graceful,  unaffected,  but  perhaps  too  scru- 
 pulous epistolary  writer,  the  accomplished  and 
 "  charming  Lady  Mary  Montague/'  accompanied 
 her  caro  sposo,  Mr.  Edward  Wortley  Montague, 
 to  Constantinople,  when  he  was  appointed 
 Ambassador  to  the  Sublime  Porte. 
 
 In  the  eighteenth  century,  that  "  Princess  of 
 Female  Writers"  published  in  her  Letters  an 
 account  of  her  visits  to  some  of  the  Harems 
 of  the  elite  of  the  Turks  of  that  period. 
 
 She  had  no  need  to  propitiate  that  all- 
 powerful  Sovereign  Prince  of  the  Ottoman 
 Empire,  "  Baksheesh," — who,  whatever  may  be 
 
vi  PREFACE. 
 
 his  demerits  as  a  statesman,  stands  forth,  in 
 the  present  age,  most  prominently  as  the  pre- 
 cursor of  civilization  in  the  Turkish  dominions, 
 and  for  whom  a  most  brilliant  future  is  in 
 prospect — to  obtain  ingress  therein.  Her  rank 
 and  position  were  the  Telecem,  "talisman," 
 which  threw  open  to  her  the  heavy  ponderous 
 portals,  drew  back  the  massive  double-bolted 
 doors,  turned  the  weighty  keys  —  (for  they 
 are  enormously  large) — within  their  intricate 
 Hobbs-like  wards,  let  fly  the  secret  springs 
 — such  is  the  mechanism  of  the  formidable 
 outward  barriers  which  protect  the  huge  gates 
 of  those  dragon-guarded  palatial  mansions — 
 and  gave  her  access  to  those  forbidden  "  Abodes 
 of  Bliss"  of  the  stolid,  sensual,  and  indolent 
 Blue  Beards  of  the  East. 
 
 Nevertheless,  her  handsome  train,  Lady  Am- 
 bassadress as  she  was,  swept  but  across  the 
 splendid  carpeted  floors  of  those  noble  Saloons 
 of  Audience,  all  of  which  had  been,  as  is  in- 
 
PREFACE.  vii 
 
 variably  the  custom,  well  "  swept  and  gar- 
 nished" for  her  reception.  The  interior  of 
 those  Harems  were  to  her  Ladyship  a  terra 
 incognita,  and  even  although  she  passed 
 through  those  gaudy  halls  like  a  beautiful 
 meteor,  all  was  couleur  de  rose,  and  not  the 
 slightest  opportunity  was  permitted  her  to 
 study  the  daily  life  of  the  Odalisques.  True, 
 she  had  witnessed  the 
 
 "  Strange  fascination  of  Eastern  gorgeousness,  reverie,  and 
 passion  ;" 
 
 but  yet,  as  she  had  not  been  allowed  to  pene- 
 trate beyond  the  reception  halls,  nor  to  pollute 
 the  floors  of  the  chambers  of  those  "  Castles 
 of  Indolence"  with  her  defiling  footsteps,  the 
 social  manners,  habits,  and  customs  of  the 
 Creme  de  la  Creme  of  both  Turkish  and 
 Egyptian  noblesse,  and  the  Star  Chamber  of 
 Ottoman  intrigue,  were  to  her  all  unexplored 
 regions. 
 
viii  PREFACE. 
 
 It  was  reserved  to  a  humble  individual  like 
 myself,  in  my  official  capacity  as  Governess  to 
 His  Highness  the  Grand  Pacha  Ibrahim,  the 
 infant  son  of  H.  H.  Ismael  Pacha,  the  Viceroy 
 of  Egypt,  the  grandson  of  Mahomet  Ali,  the 
 Eegenerator  of  Egypt,  and  the  son  of  that 
 gallant  warrior,  the  renowned  Ibrahim  Pacha, 
 to  become  the  unheard-of  instance  in  the 
 annals  of  the  Turkish  Empire,  of  residing 
 within  those  foci  of  intrigue,  the  Imperial  and 
 Viceregal  Harems  of  Turkey  and  Egypt ;  and 
 thus  an  opportunity  has  been  afforded  me 
 of,  Asmodeus-like,  uplifting  that  impenetrable 
 veil,  to  accomplish  which  had  hitherto  baffled 
 (like  that  of  a  European's  pilgrimage  to  Mecca, 
 until  so  bravely  and  successfully  accomplished 
 by  the  gallant  Captain  Burton)  all  the  exer- 
 tions of  Eastern  travellers.  The  object  of  the 
 following  Work  is  to  disclose  to  European 
 society  "Life  in  the  Harems  of  Egypt  and 
 Constantinople,"  which  cannot  but  be  consi- 
 
PREFACE.  ;  ix 
 
 tiered  as  secret  institutions  for  the  corruption 
 of  women.  It  has  been  my  aim  to  give  a 
 concise  yet  impartial  and  sympathetic  account 
 of  the  daily  life  of  the  far-famed  Odalisques 
 of  the  nineteenth  century — those  mysterious 
 impersonifications  of  Eastern  loveliness.  With 
 what  success  I  have  achieved  this  difficult 
 task  is  left  to  the  judgment  of  the  public 
 to  determine. 
 
 London,  October,  1865. 
 
CONTENTS  OF  VOL.  I. 
 
 CHAPTER  I. 
 
 Arrival  at  Alexandria — Instructions  to  proceed  to  Cairo — H.  H.'s 
 Partners — Journey  by  Railway — Fellow-Travellers  —  The 
 Greek  Merchant  and  Frankfort  Jew — Arrival  at  Tantah — 
 The  Viceroy's  private  Despatches  —  European  Ladies  —  A 
 Greek's  Description  of  Harem  Life — Dr.  Abbot's  Museum — 
 The  Chief  Eunuch — Solyman  Pacha  the  Magnificent — His  In- 
 novations— the  Viceregal  Family — Jealousy  of  the  Princess — 
 Difficulties  of  my  Position  —  Power  of  the  Grand  Eunuch. 
 
 Page  1 
 
 CHAPTER  II. 
 
 The  actual  Rulers  of  Egypt — Prince  Baksheesh — Intrigues  of 
 the  Harem — Their  Results — H.  H.'s  Men  of  Business — Ismael 
 Pacha,  the  Billionaire  Merchant  Prince — Dietary  of  the  Vice- 
 regal Household — The  Atmosphere  in  the  Harems — Arab 
 Nurses — Monotonous  Life — The  Turkish  Value  of  the  Fair 
 Sex — The  Freedom  enjoyed  by  the  Turkish  and  Egyptian 
 Ladies  of  the  Harem — Opinion  of  the  East  as  regards  Women 
 — Their  true  Value  in  Egypt — Laxity  of  European  Morals  in 
 the  East — How  Peris  of  the  West  are  procured  for  the  Blue 
 Beards  of  the  East — The  Secret  of  the  Aggrandizement  of 
 Europeans  in  the  Ottoman  Dominions — Effects  of  the  Crimean 
 War  upon  the  Levantines  —How  Frankfort  J e ws  have  become 
 Millionaires  in  the  East— A  parvenue  Merchant's  Career  in 
 
Xll 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Egypt — The  All-powerful  Ruler  of  Egypt — Prince  Baksheesh's 
 Influence  —  Autobiography  of  the  Egyptian  Rothschilds  — 
 Messrs.  H.'s  Career — A  Crimean  Sulbr — H.H.  the  Viceroy's 
 Associates  in  Commerce — Mr.  B.  of  Cairo — Arrival  at  Cairo 
 — Singular  Incident  at  Zech's  Hotel — The  Antiquary — How 
 Europeans  in  Egypt  work  the  Oracle — Sale  of  a  Mummy — 
 The  Italian  Apothecary — The  Cairo  Morgue — The  Anti- 
 quary's FJight—  The  Hotel  Proprietor's  Legacy —The  Small 
 Change  current  in  Egypt — The  Circulating  Medium  in  the 
 Harems— Departure  for  Mr.  B.'s  Page  23 
 
 CHAPTER  III. 
 Arrival  at  Mr.  B.'s — His  Residence  and  Establishment — His 
 Arab  Mistress — My  Reception — H.  H.'s  Attention — My  Re- 
 monstrance at  leaving  the  Hotel — Virtually  a  Prisoner — The 
 Carte — My  Meals — Cuisine  a  l'Arabe — The  Banker's  Occupa- 
 tions— Another  English  Governess  at  the  Hotel — Her  Depar- 
 ture from  Cairo — Regain  my  Liberty — A  Scene  from  the 
 Balcony — The  Viceregal  Glimpse  at  the  Governess— The  Vice- 
 regal Cortege  Page  42 
 
 CHAPTER  IV. 
 Introduction  to  Messrs.  H.  — The  Skeleton  in  the  Viceregal  Closet 
 — Why  spirited  away  from  Zech's — Miss  T.'s  Indiscretion — 
 My  Duties  as  Governess — Fears  lest  the  Prince  should  be 
 poisoned — Stipend  increased — Monotonous  Life — Surveillance 
 kept  over  me — Contemplated  Resignation — Change  of  Diet 
 — How  my  Time  was  passed  at  the  Banker's — Interview 
 with  Mr.  C.  H. — His  Want  of  Courtesy — I  decline  to  enter 
 +he  Harem  on  a  Sunday — The  old  German  Housekeeper. 
 
 Page  48 
 
 CHAPTER  V. 
 
 The  Schoolmaster  Abroad — The  Maich  of  Intellect  in  the  East 
 — Departure  from  the  Banker's  at  Cairo — Across  the  Nile — 
 Arrival  at  Ghezire — H.  H.'s  Barge  —  Arab  Rowers — The 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Xlll 
 
 Harem  Stairs — The  Grand  Eunuch — Character  of  the  Eunuchs 
 —  Their  Manner  towards  the  Fair  Sex  —  Subservience  to 
 Prince  Baksheesh — Their  Contempt  for  Christians — Dafay's 
 History — The  Grand  Eunuch's  Duties — The  Seven  Headings 
 of  the  Koran — His  Conduct  towards  me — Their  Anxiety  to 
 obtain  Information — The  Princesses  Baksheesh — Prohibition 
 to  give  Baksheesh — The  Prophet's  Seventh  Heaven — Biickert 
 the  German  Orientalist. — The  Moslem  Heavens — The  True 
 Paradise — The  Ninth  Heaven — Where  Infants  are  Flowers — 
 The  Spirits  of  departed  Friends — Why  Turks  dislike  Dogs — 
 The  Exterior  of  the  Viceroy's  Harem  at  Ghezire — The  Harem 
 Courtyard  —  The  Arabs,  how  employed  there  —  The  Stone 
 Hall— The  Grand  Staircase — The  Chief  Eunuch — An  Opium 
 E  ter — The  Lady  Superintendent  of  the  Slaves — The  Slaves 
 how  they  obtain  Riches — Of  what  Nations  composed — How 
 cared  for  in  old  Age— The  Nurses — Want  of  Furniture  in  the 
 Apartments— The  Princesses'  Wardrobe-room — The  Bed  Re- 
 pository— The  Princesses'  Dressing-room — The  Mahogany 
 Cupboard — The  Curiosity  Shop  in  the  Harem — H.  H.  the 
 Princess  Epouse  —  Her  Appearance — Costume — H.  H.  the 
 Grand  Pacha  Ibrahim—  His  Costume — His  Reception  of  the 
 Governess— The  Ladies  of  the  Harem — Their  Costume— 
 Jewellery — The  White  Slaves— My  Private  Installation  into 
 Office  Page  56 
 
 CHAPTER  VI. 
 
 My  Tour  of  Inspection  of  the  Apartments — The  Stone  Halls — 
 The  Reservoir  —  The  Coffee-room  —  The  German  Laundry- 
 maid's  Dormitory — The  Bath,  when  used  —The  Bath  Women 
 — The  Laundry — Daily  Life  among  the  Slaves — Washing- 
 days — H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha's  Suite  of  Apartments — The 
 Prince  not  domiciled  in  the  Harem — A  Description  of  the 
 Cage  Cafess — How  the  Princes  confined  therein  occupied 
 their  Time — Abolition  of  Mutes— The  Conduct  of  the  Princes 
 when  released  from  their  thraldom — Dr.  Abbott's  Work  on 
 
xiv 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Egypt  —  The  Prince's  State  Apartments  —  The  Princesses' 
 Dormitories — The  Governess's  Chamber — The  YouUs — Want 
 of  Furniture  in  the  Harem — Mahomet  Ali's  Repudiation  of 
 the  Prophetic  Prohibition  against  Portrait  Painting — a  la 
 Turque  Furnished  Rooms — H.  H.  Ismael  Pacha's  resemblance 
 to  his  Father  Ibrahim  Pasha  The  Hall  of  Audience — De- 
 stitute of  Furniture — An  Harem  Bouquet — Turkish  Time, 
 how  regulated — Awkwardness  of  the  Ladies  of  the  Harem  on 
 Chairs — H.  H.  the  Princess  Epouse  surrounded  by  her  Suite 
 —Her  Position  on  the  Divan — The  Cigarettes — Economy  the 
 Order  of  the  Day — Her  Highness's  Appearance  on  the  Divan 
 — H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha — My  Official  Installation  into  Office. 
 
 Page  78 
 
 CHAPTER  VII. 
 
 Behaviour  of  the  Slaves — The  Ladies  of  the  Harem — Their 
 Manner  towards  me  —  Their  Admiration  of  my  Dress — 
 Astonishment  at  my  Crinoline — Innovation  in  the  Dress  of 
 Turkish  Ladies — Their  Surprise  at  my  Manner  of  Walking — 
 The  Turkish  Mode  of  calling  Domestics — My  Luncheon — The 
 Soofra — The  Slaves'  Surprise — Zarfs  of  Coffee — Cigarettes — 
 Their  Offer  declined — Breach  of  Turkish  Etiquette — How  the 
 Prince  amused  himself — A  Benich,  "  Promenade  " — My  New 
 Title — The  Attendants — Costume — A  Greek  H.  H.  Ibrahim's 
 Head  Nurse — Her  Appearance — Costume — Company  in  my 
 Chamber  —  My  Room — Its  Inconveniences — My  Bed — My 
 Orders — A  Walk  through  the  Harem  Gardens — The  Sheet 
 of  Water — Pagoda — Pleasure  Boat — Aquatic  Birds — Marble 
 Kiosk — The  Gardens — Their  Beauty  and  Picturesqueness — 
 The  Maze — A  Merry-go-round — Waterworks — Marble  Statues 
 
 —  Colossal  Figure  of  the  Goddess  Ceres — The  Four  Cherubims 
 — The  Lower  Basin — Marble  Paved  Verandah — The  Swings 
 
 —  Their  Shape  —  Moved  by  Mechanism — Beautiful  Hall — 
 Elegant  Room — How  fitted  up — H.  H.  the  Viceroy's  Pavilion 
 — Why  the  Princesses  do  not  use  the  Gardens — The  Com- 
 parison with  those  of  England  —  By  whose  Orders  con 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 XV 
 
 structed — Ibrahim  Pacha — The  Lake — How  supplied — Murray's 
 erroneous  Impression  respecting  the  Viceregal  Palaces — Descrip- 
 tion of  H.  H.'s  Pavilion— The  Beauty  of  the  Rooms— Their  Ele- 
 gance— The  Saloon — The  Small  Drawing-room — The  Dining-room 
 — How  curiously  furnished — Stuffed  Animals — The  Menagerie — 
 The  Grand  Pacha  frightened — Collection  of  Animals — Moved  by 
 Mechanism — The  Den  of  Wild  Beasts — Ibrahim  Pachas  Dispo- 
 sition— His  Object  in  selecting  these  Animals — His  Mania  for 
 making  Money — The  Bed  Chambers — How  Furnished — The  Bed 
 —Divan— Toilet  Table— Ebony  Cabinet— Jewel  Casket— Stove— 
 The  Gardens — How  Irrigated — Cuttings — Nile  Water — Dykes — 
 Bridge  of  Planks — The  Barracks — How  arranged — Soldiers'  and 
 Officers'  Quarters  all  Windowless  —  The  Tatterdemalions  — 
 Turkish  Men  never  undress — How  employed — Their  Rations — 
 Crude  Vegetables  —  The  Turkish  Sentinels'  Refrain  —  H.  H.'s 
 Sugar  Refinery — Quantity  annually  produced — How  clarified — 
 The  Black  Diamonds  Page  96 
 
 CHAPTER  VIII. 
 
 be  Ladies  of  the  Harem's  Room  —  Her  Highness's  Staff  of 
 Slaves — His  Highness  the  Grand  Pacha  Ibrahim  at  Supper — 
 The  Carte  —  Specimens  of  Cuisine  a  l'Arabe  —  The  Pastry  — 
 The  Desert — The  Beverages — How  the  Head  Nurse  helps  the 
 Prince  at  his  Meals  —  The  little  Princesses  at  Supper  — 
 What  becomes  of  the  Bread  that  falls  upon  the  Floor — Bread 
 Balls  — How  made  — The  Slaves'  Diet  — Arab  Bread  — Short 
 Commons — No  Bread  in  the  Harem — The  Slaves  understand 
 Purloining — Washing  of  Hands  after  Supper — The  Substitute  for 
 Towels — Appearance  of  the  Tray  after  Meals — The  Nurses  at 
 Supper — What  becomes  of  the  Remnants  or  Scraps — No  separate 
 Table  for  the  Slaves — The  Scene  in  the  Reception  Hall  after 
 Supper — The  Viceregal  Nursery  and  its  Occupants — H.  H.'s  Bed 
 — The  Little  Princesses'  Beds — The  Prince  in  his  Night  Attire 
 — Ceremony  observed — How  put  to  Sleep — Occupation  of  H.  H. 
 the  Princess  Epouse,  his  Mother — Employment  of  the  Nurses 
 
XVI 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 — Hour  of  Retirement  —  Immense  Musquito  Curtain  —  H( 
 arranged — The  Governess  at  Supper — Her  Companion — T 
 Carte — Beverages — Eetires  to  her  Chamber — Bed — Eeflectio 
 upon  my  Position — Messrs.  H.  and  Mr.  B.'s  Neglect — How 
 could  have  been  supplied  with  European  Diet  and  all  Com; 
 niences — Behaviour  of  H.  H.  the  Viceroy's  (Civil)  Aide-de-Can  . 
 — The  Prussians'  Dislike  to  the  English — A  Substitute  for  B> 
 Linen — No  Slave  appointed  to  attend  upon  me — Locked  in 
 Night — A  Prisoner  within  the  Harem  Walls — The  Fastening 
 the  Gates — The  Realities  of  my  Position — Solitude  in  a  Crowd 
 A  Dilemma— No  Chair — No  Table — My  Substitutes — How 
 commenced  my  Incidents  of  Harem  Life    ....    Page  1 ! 
 
 El 
 -E 
 P 
 
 Gard 
 
 CHAPTER  IX. 
 
 Menial  Offices  required  of  me — My  Refusal — H.  H.  the  Princes 
 Arrangement — Domestic  Life  in  the  Harem — Hours  of  Rising 
 Unlocking  of  the  Gates — Slaves  and  Ladies  of  the  Harem 
 Early  Risers — No  Change  of  Dress — Bed  Storeroom — Hous 
 hold  Arrangements — H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha's  Morning  Toil 
 — Marks  on  his  Legs — Mode  of  washing  the  Prince — Substitu 
 for  Towels — His  Habiliments — The  Cords  and  Charms  attach  ^ 
 to  his  Person — Their  Uses — The  Silver  Box — Its  Contents — T 
 Cypress  Box — Its  Contents— The  Pieces  of  Mahomet's  Coffin- 
 Head  Washing — Ornament  in  his  Fez — Antidote  against  Fits- 
 Charm  against  the  Evil  Eye — The  large  Turquoise — Its  Use- 
 The  Symmets — Their  Distribution — The  Prince's  Vagaries — T. 
 Silver  Brazier — Its  Contents  and  Use — The  Kitchen — Whe 
 situated — The  Meals,  how  brought  to  the  Harem — Where  plac<! 
 —  The  Enunchs'  Cry,  "  Dustoor,  Dustoor "  — Flight  oft] 
 Women — Reward  of  their  Curiosity — The  Purloining — Slav< 
 Attention  to  the  Governess— No  Baksheesh  given  them  by  t'. 
 Governess — The  Breakfast— The  Carte — The  Behaviour  of  t'. 
 Viceregal  Children — H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha  dislikes  Pigeons- 
 An  Egyptian  Salad— The  Governess's  Breakfast — The  Scarcity 
 Butter  and  Eggs — The  Prince's  Morning  Visit  to  the  Three  Wiv 
 
 E; 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 xvii 
 
 —The  First  Wife's  Appearance— The  Chamber— Her  Toilette— 
 Her  Dress — How  the  Grand  Pacha  saluted  her — The  Second  Wife 
 — H.  H.  the  Princess  Epouse's  Chamber— The  Third  Wife— The 
 Prince  takes  Coffee — H.  H.  asks  for  Baksheesh— A  Walk  in  the 
 i  Gardens — H.  H.  orders  a  Bouquet — His  Displeasure — Instance 
 of  his  Cruelty — The  Poor  "  not  frozen"  out,  but  Arab  Gar- 
 deners— Their  Punishment — The  Eunuchs'  Task — H.  H.  in  a 
 Page — The  Fate  of  the  Bouquet — A  True  Descendant  of  the 
 Ibrahim  Pacha — Their  Highnesses  en  grande  Toilette — The  Gover- 
 ness's Mistake— The  Barber — The  Viceroy— The  Prince  at  Play 
 — "  The  Tiger's  Heart  wrapt  in  an  Infant's  Breast  "—The  Grand 
 Pacha's  Cruelty  and  Barbarity — The  poor  little  Female  Slave — 
 His  Mother's  Ideas  of  Justice — The  Injured  meets  with  no  Sym- 
 pathy— The  Mistress  of  the  Harem — Her  Appearance — Costume 
 — Duties — Inquisitiveness— Her  Examination  of  the  Governess's 
 Wardrobe  —  Every  Article  swept  away — H.  H.  the  Princess 
 Epouse's  Admiration  of  European  Costume — Luncheon  in  the 
 Stone  Hall  Page  145 
 
 CHAPTEE  X. 
 
 he  Governess  at  Supper  —  The  Slave  breaks  some  China  — 
 Her  Punishment  —  Mode  of  Branding  the  Slaves  —  Their 
 Written  Characters — The  Viceregal  Brand — The  Private  Turk's 
 Brand — H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha's  Wet  Nurse — Her  Appearance 
 — Costume — Jewels — I  visit  the  Ladies  of  the  Harem's  Chamber 
 — Their  Attention — Cigarettes — Their  Pastime — How  Turkish 
 Marriages  are  arranged — Rhoda's  Story  of  Reschid's  Marriage — 
 The  Bride  catches  a  Glimpse  of  the  Bridegroom — The  Bridegroom 
 bribes  a  Jewess  to  visit  his  Betrothed — The  Bride's  Photograph 
 as  daguerreotyped  by  the  Jewess — The  Preparations — The  Pre- 
 sents— Bath-room — "  Turkish  Punch,"  Karakroz — The  Festivities 
 —The  Bridal  Day — The  Bridegroom's  Entrance  into  the  Harem 
 — The  Mother  of  the  Harem— The  Bridegroom's  Generosity — 
 Her  Avariciousness  baffled — Her  Exit  from  the  Nuptial  Chamber 
 — The  Veil  withdrawn — The  Disappointment — The  Moonlight 
 VOL.  L  b 
 
xviii 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Scene  from  the  Governess's  Chamber — The  beating  of  Muffled 
 Drums — The  Procession  of  the  "  Ikbal "  in  the  Pavilion — H.  H. 
 the  Viceroy — The  Kevelry  in  the  Gardens — How  the  Black 
 Slaves,  Eunuchs,  and  muffled  Figures  amuse  themselves  at  Night 
 — Influence  of  Prince  Baksheesh — Supplies  furnished  the  Inmates 
 of  the  Harem — Of  what  they  consist — Their  annual  Value — 
 Monthly  Cost  of  Jewels — Amount  of  Baksheesh  annually  dis- 
 pensed by  their  Highnesses — Household  Expenses — Cost  of  the 
 Maintenance  of  the  Viceregal  Harem — Its  Census — The  Pur- 
 veyors— Their  Profit — How  realized  Page  166 
 
 CHAPTER  XI. 
 
 Departure  for  H.  H.  the  Viceroy's  Yacht — The  Grand  Pacha's 
 Visiting  Costume — The  Little  Turkish  General — The  Uniform — 
 The  Prince's  Leave-taking — Embarking  on  Board  the  Tender — 
 The  Fairy— How  fitted  up— The  W.  C.  a  la  Turque— The  Vice- 
 roy's Yacht — The  Viceregal  Barge — The  Band — The  Audience 
 Saloon — Its  Fittings — The  Dining  Saloon — How  arranged — 
 Pictures  of  Birds  and  Beasts — The  Poop  Deck — The  Viceregal 
 Bed-chamber — The  Cabinet — Its  Contents — The  Red  Book — 
 The  Prince's  Curiosity — A  List  of  Prince  Baksheesh's  reputed 
 Pensioners — A  Tempting  Offer — The  Ivory  Box — Its  Contents — 
 The  Grand  Pacha's  Pastime — The  Tchiboukdji — His  Office — In- 
 fluence— How  he  gains  his  Information — The  illustrious  Banker 
 —The  Tchiboukdji's  Character— The  Grand  Saloon— H.  H.  the 
 Viceroy  Ismael  Pacha — The  Governess's  Discomfiture — Viceregal 
 Politeness — The  Prince  asks  for  Baksheesh — What  becomes  of 
 it — An  Excursion  up  the  Nile— The  Island  of  Rhoda — The 
 Nilometer — The  Gardens — Their  Description — H.  H.  Ibrahim 
 Pacha — Antilla  Palms — Exotics — Fruit  Trees — Kiosk — Leave  of 
 Absence — Difficulty  to  procure  Locomotion — Visit  to  Mr.  B.'s — 
 The  Difficulties  of  my  Position — No  System  of  Education  can 
 be  carried  out — The  Obstacles — H.  H.  the  Princess  Epouse's 
 Interference — Irregularity  in  the  Harem — The  Grand  Pacha 
 rules  Supreme — Educational  Training  abandoned — The  Reason 
 
CONTEXTS. 
 
 xix 
 
 — My  Want  of  Conveniences — Substitutes  for  Furniture — Nau- 
 seousness  of  Diet — My  daily  Food — My  Exposure  to  the  Sun — 
 The  Temperature — State  of  the  Atmosphere  in  the  Harem — How- 
 Impregnated — Effects  of  Harem  Life  upon  my  Spirits — Its 
 Monotony  —  Loss  of  Energy  —  Ennui  —  Melancholy  Madness. 
 
 Page  185 
 
 CHAPTER  XII. 
 
 State  of  Society  about  me — Daily  Regimen — The  Conduct  of  a 
 Lady  of  the  Harem — Its  Indelicacy — Arab  Nurses — Their  Hatred 
 — The  Cause — How  treated  by  the  Viceregal  Family — The  Order 
 of  Precedence— The," Ikbals" — . Their  Dislike — My  Companions 
 — The  Ladies  of  the  Harem — Their  Appearance — Tom  Moore's 
 Erroneous  Impressions — His  Beauties  all  a  Myth — When  ejected 
 from  the  Harem — Dark  Deeds — "  Malesch  " — Its  Signification — 
 White  Slaves — Their  Appearance — Reflections  in  a  Mirror — 
 Black  Slaves — Their  Photographs — Their  Occupations — Pose 
 Plastique — The  Ethiopians,  Nubians,  and  Abyssinians  —  The 
 Bedlam — The  Poets  Myth-like  Elysium — Circumspection  ne- 
 cessary— My  Line  of  Conduct — Their  Highnesses'  Jealousy — The 
 Favourites — The  Viceroy's  Attention — A  Nubian's  Revengt — 
 The  Fate  of  Ismael  Pacha — The  Viceroy's  Uncle — A  Dark  Deed 
 — Sudden  Disappearance — Instructions  received  from  H.  H.'s 
 reputed  Partners — My  Critical  Position — The  Head  Nurse — A 
 Poisoned  Apple — The  Blush — A  Tempting  Offer  declined — 
 Poisoned  Dates — The  Governess's  Tact — Her  Reward — How 
 treated  by  the  Viceregal  Family — Change  in  the  conduct  of  the 
 Inmates  of  the  Harem — Prince  Baksheesh  at  a  Discount — Mr. 
 C.  H.'s  Opinion  of  the  English — A  Prussian's  Estimate  of  an 
 English  Lady's  Requirements — His  Antecedents — First  Step  on 
 the  Ladder  of  Fortune — His  Opinion  of  English  Officers — His 
 Daguerreotype  of  the  Viceroy — H.  H.  the  Princess  Epouse's 
 Kindness — The  Viceroy's  Presents — The  Hekim  Bachas — H.  H. 
 Ismael  Pacha's  Orders — The  Viceregal's  reputed  Associates  stop 
 the  Machinery — The  First  Spoke  in  my  Wheel — What  I  get — 
 H.  H.'s  Consideration — Another  Importation  from  Frankfort — 
 
XX  CONTENTS. 
 
 The  German  Laundry-maid's  Application — I  decline  to  interfere 
 — The  German's  Contract — The  Value  of  a  Governess  in  the  Eyes 
 of  the  Frankfortonians — Sinecure  Office  of  the  Germans — Their  I 
 Behaviour  to  the  Princesses — I  decline  to  ask  Favours — Visit  to  I 
 the  Harem  of  the  late  Viceroy  Said  Pacha — The  Palace — Gardens 1 
 — Kiosks — Mahomet  Ali — His  Portrait — Where  placed — Gasj 
 Lamps — H.  H.  Widow  of  the  Said  Pacha — My  Eeception — The  J 
 Ceremony  observed — The  Harem — My  Doubts  as  to  the  ReaL 
 Cause  of  Miss  T.'s  not  entering  on  her  Post  as  Governess — A 
 Mystery — British  Consular  Court  at  Alexandria — Registration  of  ■ 
 British  Subjects— The  Fee— The  Value  of  a  Foreign  Office  Pass- ' 
 port — Egypt  Page  210 
 
 CHAPTER  XIII. 
 
 Erroneous  impressions  of  Author's — Social  Life  in  the  Harems — 
 The  Peris  of  the  Harem — Their  Morning  Appearance — Amuse- 
 ments— Tchibouks — Cigarettes — Coffee — Early  Rising — Turkish 
 Time,  how  reckoned — The  Princesses — Employment  of  their  Time 
 —The  Grand  Eunuch — Ladies  of  the  Harem  and  Slaves — Their 
 Appearance  and  Avocations  —  Medical  Treatment  —  Morning 
 Toilette — The  Feet- washing — Ablutions — Hair-dressing — Ver- 
 min— Daily  Avocation — Power  over  their  own  Slaves — Monday's 
 Employments  —  Domestic  Arrangements  —  By  whom  superin- 
 tended— The  Washerwomen — Breakfast — How  served — Chanum 
 Kaleouns — Their  Contents — Opium  Pills — Their  Effects — Ap- 
 pearance of  the  Princesses — The  Influence  of  Opiates — Their 
 Kef—  The  Forbidden  Liquor— Carnabal  Wine— The  Siesta— The 
 Bed  Storeroom — The  Head  Nurse's  downy  Couch — The  Sleeping 
 Beauty  and  the  Beast — The  Female  Tigress — The  Evening 
 Toilette  —  Substitutes  for  Wardrobes — Sarah,  Youks  —  The 
 Supper — Crude  Vegetables  —  The  Promenade  —  Amusements 
 — Dominoes — Tales — Songs — Coffee  Drinking — Dancing — Zarfg 
 — Their  Size — Numbers  emptied  daily—  The  Cigarette-Makers — 
 The  Ethiopian  Serenaders — A  Scene  in  the  Stone  Hall — No  Ser- 
 vice of  Plate  in  the  Harem — The  Slaves  in  their  Glory — High 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 xxi 
 
 Life  below  Stairs  in  the  Harem — The  Confusion  of  Tongues — 
 The  Viceregal  Laundry — Process  of  Mangling — A  New  Method 
 — The  Lady  Paramount  as  Superintendent — Her  Appearance — 
 Costume — The  First  Wife  in  her  Domestic  Circle — The  Silent 
 System  —  How  enforced  —  Brutality  towards  a  Slave  —  The 
 Prince's  Life  in  danger — The  Governess's  Presence  of  Mind — Her 
 Highness's  Instructions  to  the  German  Laundry-maid — The 
 Young  Princesses  H.  H.  The  Viceroy's  Daughters  —  Their 
 Number — Parentage  —  Their  Occupation  —  Mode  of  Ironing  — 
 Curious  Irons — Eeligious  Toleration  in  Egypt  .    .    .    Page  235 
 
 CHAPTER  XIV. 
 
 How  I  pass  my  Sabbath — The  Unbeliever  at  Prayers — The  Sur- 
 prise of  the  Peris  of  the  Harem — The  "  Tusbee,"  the  Mahome- 
 dan's  "Evening  Call  to  Prayer  "  —  "  Shayton,"  the  Devil's 
 Signal  —  The  Hand-bell,  the  Slave's  Abomination  —  Its  Use 
 explained — The  Viceroy's  Visit  to  the  Harem — The  Transforma- 
 tion— How  effected — Its  Celerity — Notice  of  H.  H.'s  Arrival — 
 A  Man  in  the  Harem  at  Eas-el-Fin — The  Ghost — The  Young 
 Princesses'  Fright — Disappearance  of  a  Slave — Whither  she  went 
 — Their  Highnesses  en  grande  Toilette — The  Peris  in  Evening 
 Costume — Ladies  of  Harem  and  Slaves  made  Beautiful — Display 
 of  Jewels — My  Impressions  of  their  Use — Sum  annually  spent  in 
 Precious  Stones — The  Billionaire's  Liberality — The  Princesses' 
 Treasures — Spolia  tion  of  Viceregal  Princes — The  Viceregal  Dinner 
 —The  Courses— H.  H.'s  Private  Apartments— The  Table-cloth— 
 The  Attendants — White  Slaves — Who  serves  the  Dishes — The 
 Office  of  the  Lady  Paramount — The  Wives'  duties — The  Gover- 
 ness and  the  Prince — Their  Pastime — The  Wives  at  Dinner — The 
 Viceroy's  Pastime — The  Grand  Pacha's  Perruquier — His  Locks — 
 An  Arab  Superstition — A  Packet  cast  into  the  Nile — A  Boat- 
 man's Amusement — Bismillah  ! — Omens  of  Good  and  Evil — The 
 Hawadjee  and  the  Believers  fraternise — Display  of  Robes — 
 Tricks  of  Trade  — Soiled  Goods— Last  Year's  Fashion  — The 
 Governess  becomes  the  Oracle — How  I  gain  their  Esteem— The 
 
xxii 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Means  adopted — The  Odalisques  at  Home — An  Oriental  Prover 
 — The  Greeks  and  Germans — Prussian  Influence — The  English  al 
 a  Discount — The  Princess  at  Prayers  — "  He'r  Nainaz,"  th< 
 Prayer  Carpet — The  Beads — A  Costume — H.  H.  the  Prince  a 
 His  Tricks — His  Powers  of  Imitation — The  Tchibouk — The  Rose 
 — Pink  Narcotic — Death  in  the  Palace — H.  H.'s  Daughter — The 
 Harem  in  Mourning — The  Viceroy's  Visit — The  Prince's  Fall — 
 Superstitious  Observances  Page  253 
 
 CHAPTER  XV. 
 
 The  Viceroy's  disregard  of  Turkish  Etiquette — How  he  takes  the 
 Bath — His  Attendants — The  Duties  of  the  Wives  and  Ikbals — 
 He  possesses  no  Power  over  his  Wives'  Slaves — Plurality  of 
 Wives — The  Koran — H.  H.  must  not  covet  a  Wife's  Slave — The 
 Penalty — The  Divorce — A  Turkish  Princess's  Revenge — The 
 Slave's  Fate — The  Husband's  Death — It  is  dangerous  to  play 
 with  Edged  Tools — How  the  Head  Nurse  obtains  her  Wealth — 
 My  Cash-box  coveted — Why — The  Nurse's  Work-box — Its 
 Contents — Where  they  came  from — Egyptian  Gold — A  Collec- 
 tion of  Coins — Their  Size — A  Tin  Toothpowder-box — Its  Appro- 
 priation— What  becomes  of  the  Slaves'  Hoards  after  Death — Their 
 Funeral — Hired  Mourners — Wax  Candles — The  Coffers  of  the 
 Kislar  Agasi — How  filled — The  Inmates  of  the  Harem  take  an 
 Excursion  on  the  Nile — The  Crocodiles — A  Slave  thrown  into 
 the  Nile — How  he  escapes — His  Reward — H.  H.  the  Grand 
 Pacha  in  his  Glory — A  Fit  of  Cruelty — The  Prince's  Characteris- 
 tics— H.  H.  the  Princess's  Mode  of  Correction — The  Influence  of 
 a  Hair  Pin — The  Cruelty  of  the  Head  Nurse — H.  H.  the  Grand 
 Pacha's  Vices — His  Pastimes — His  Powers  of  Imitation  and 
 Mimicry — The  Money  Changer  and  his  Customers — Substitute 
 for  Paras — A  Viceregal  Dealer  in  Rupees — Stock-in-Trade — 
 H.  H.  learns  to  count  in  English — Sharp  Practice — The  Young 
 Usurer — Portrait  of  Ibrahim  Pacha  at  Ras-el-Tin — The  Prince's 
 Delight — How  he  does  his  Customers  brown — The  Lady  Money 
 Changer — Her  Viceregal  Customer — His  Finesse — The  Chipped 
 
CONTEXTS. 
 
 xxiii 
 
 Counter — The  Argument — H.  H.  Ibrahim  out  of  Temper — An 
 Intruder — H.  H.  the  Viceroy — The  poor  Man — The  Father  plays 
 with  the  Son — H.  H.  Isniael  Pacha  pays  a  Compliment — The 
 Governess's  Disappointment— H.  H.'s  Love  of  Money — The  Vice- 
 regal Drill  Sergeant — A  Band  of  little  Amazons — His  Highness's 
 Eecruits — A  refractory  Private — Her  Punishment — The  Cour- 
 bache— The  Grand  Pacha's  Love  of  Military  Glory — His  Imita- 
 tion of  the  Kegenerator  of  Egypt  and  the  Conqueror  of  Syria — 
 Their  Characters — The  Viceregal  Caique — His  Naval  Brigade- 
 Penalty  for  Neglect  of  Duty — The  Bastinado — The  Viceregal 
 Mufti — Mosque  in  the  Harem — How  fitted  up — The  Mufti  at  his 
 Namdz  —  His  Congregations  —  The  Viceregal  Builder  —  The 
 Taskmaster — His  Labourers — Their  Occupation — A  Substitute 
 for  Mortar — A  Novel  Hod — The  Prince's  Toys— Their  Value — 
 Articles  selected — A  Deficiency — Gymnastics  at  a  Discount — 
 The  Grand  Pacha  and  one  of  the  Princesses  his  Sister  on  a  Pil- 
 grimage to  Mecca — How  clothed — Substitute  for  Habarahs — 
 Wallet  and  Money — The  Procession — A  Novel  Palankin — Its 
 Occupant — The  Viceregal  "  Hammels,"  Porters — Their  Burdens 
 — Their  Thanksgiving  and  Cry  —  Chastisement  —  The  Hekim 
 Pacha  ("  Doctor  ") — His  Assistant — His  Visit  to  the  Harem — 
 Preparation  for  his  Reception — His  Patients — Mode  of  Treat- 
 ment— Pills — How  Made — The  IkbaVs  Medicine — Bon-bons — 
 The  Quantities  imported  into  the  Harem — Number  of  Viceregal 
 Harems  Page  275 
 
 CHAPTER  XVI. 
 
 rhe  Viceregal  Medical  Staff — Their  Treatment  of  Englishwomen's 
 Constitution — The  Mothers  of  the  Harem — Their  Knowledge 
 of  Medicine  —  Their  Characters  —  Prince  Baksheesh  at  a 
 Premium — Annals  of  Egyptian  History  —  Narcotics  —  Philters 
 —  Their  Power  —  Haschachir  —  Its  Effects  upon  the  Brain — 
 When  it  should  be  taken  —  The  Hallucinations  it  produces  — 
 Singular  Noises — Ringing  of  Bells — Chanting  at  a  Distance — 
 A  Double  Existence  —  A  Lethargy — Konnah  Hindu  —  The 
 
xxiv 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Fakir's  Weed— Bang— The  Turkish  Kef— Its  Derivation— The 
 Mothers  of  the  Harem  —  Efficacy  of  Ostrich  Marrow — Dried 
 Hippopotamus— Their  Fate— The  Doctors— Their  Skill— The 
 Hekim  Pacha — Their  Visits  to  the  Harem — Operations  on  a 
 Slave— A  Slave  at  the  Point  of  Death— The  Italian  Doctor— The 
 Hanem  enceinte — The  Mother's  Anxiety — The  Hekim's  Tact — 
 His  Reward — Dominoes — H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha  Master  of  the 
 Ceremonies — The  Fantasia — Turkish  Songs — The  Prince's  Ban- 
 quet —  His  Ucbal  —  Her  History — A  Visit  from  Vermin— 
 Their  Abode — The  Slave  and  the  Bon-bons — The  Prince  acts  as 
 Judge— The  Gourmand— Foot  Ball— Where  it  went  to— "The 
 Old  Curiosity  Shop  " — An  Exploration — The  Curiosities — Old 
 Clothes — The  Wardour  Street  Vertu  Dealer's.  Show  Eoom  in  the 
 Harem — Pictures — China — Clocks — A  Miscellaneous  Collection 
 — My  Resolve — How  prevented — My  Impression  of  Harem  Life 
 — The  Eight  Young  Eunuchs— Their  Destination — The  Bleating 
 and  Butting  of  a  Ram — The  Damage  done — H.  H.  the  Prince 
 becomes  an  Amateur  of  the  Ring — The  Eunuch  and  his  Mother — 
 My  own  Reflections  Page  301 
 
HAREM  LIFE 
 
 CHAPTER  I. 
 
 After  a  quick  but  tempestuous  voyage  from 
 the  busy  port  of  Marseilles,  on  board  the 
 Peleuse,  one  of  the  fleetest  steamers  in  the 
 service  of  the  Messageries  Imperiales,  I  arrived 
 in  the  land  of  the  Pharaohs,  at  the  harbour  of 
 Alexandria,  in  the  month  of  April,  186 — .  I 
 proceeded  to  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental 
 Hotel,  where  I  took  up  my  quarters  for  a  few 
 days.  As  a  host  of  travellers  have  minutely, 
 but  yet  not,  according  to  my  impressions,  very 
 accurately  described  that  Liverpool  of  Egypt, 
 Alexandria — for  Egypt  as  it  was  and  Egypt  as 
 it  is  are  vastly  different — nevertheless,  I  shall 
 not  attempt  to  give  any  topographical  account 
 vol.  I.  B 
 
2 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 of  that  wonderfully  improving  country  and  its 
 ancient  capital,  the  whole  length  and  breadth 
 of  which  I  was  enabled  to  traverse  during  my 
 residence  with  the  viceregal  family. 
 
 H.  H.  the  Viceroy  s  reputed  agent  in  London 
 had,  to  use  mercantile  phraseology,  consigned 
 me,  "bag  and  baggage,"  to  the  care  of  an 
 eminent  banking  firm  at  Alexandria,  who  are 
 also  reported  to  be  associated  with  H.  H.  Ismael 
 Pacha  in  his  private  capacity  as  the  billioniare 
 Eastern  merchant  prince. 
 
 Upon  forwarding  my  bill  of  lading — yclept 
 letter  of  introduction — to  Messrs.  H.  and  Co. 
 I  received  instructions  to  proceed  to  Cairo  by 
 the  express  train,  and  there  to  report  myself, 
 on  arrival,  to  Mr.  B.  who,  independently  of  being 
 associated  with  H.  H.  the  Viceroy  in  mercantile 
 pursuits,  also  holds  the  lucrative,  yet  by  no 
 means  sinecure,  appointments  of  Keeper  of  the 
 Privy  Purse  and  Purveyor  General  of  H.  H/s 
 Households ;  for  it  must  be  observed  that  the 
 Viceroy  maintains  numerous  establishments 
 both  at  several  palaces  and  harems. 
 
 After  having  visited  every  nook  and  corner 
 of  " El  Iskendereeyeh"  I  proceeded  to  the 
 
EGYPTIAN  RAILWAY.  3 
 
 » 
 
 railway-station,  entered  a  first-class  carriage, 
 and  was  whirled  away  by  the  iron  king  en 
 route  for  the  capital.  That  journey  has  been 
 ^o  often  described  by  abler  pens  than  mine, 
 that  I  shall  merely  give  an  account  of  my 
 fellow-passengers  and  their  conversation,  which 
 furnished  me  with  an  insight  into  the  cha- 
 racters of  many  individuals  with  whom  it  was 
 my  fate  afterwards  to  be  mixed  up. 
 
 Scarcely  had  I  made  myself  comfortable  in 
 the  carriage,  when  in  stepped  two  gentlemen. 
 Both  were  of  middle  age,  most  agreeable  in 
 manners,  and  rather  chatty.  The  younger  one 
 was  a  Greek  merchant,  of  the  name  of  Xenos, 
 who  resided  in  Alexandria,  and  who  was  pro- 
 ceeding to  Cairo,  and  thence  up  the  Nile,  to 
 purchase  cotton,  which  at  that  period  was 
 realizing  most  fabulous  prices  both  in  England 
 and  France.  The  other  was  much  his  senior : 
 he  was  of  the  Jewish  persuasion ;  and  Mr. 
 Cohen  (for  that  was  his  name)  was  a  native 
 of  the  good  city  of  Frankfort. 
 
 On  our  arrival  at  Tantah,  where  the  annual 
 fair  was  being  held — and  at  which  my  two 
 fellow-travellers  assured  me  that  slaves  were 
 B  2 
 
4 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 sold  in  186 — ,  notwithstanding  that  there 
 existed  a  treaty  abolishing  the  slave-trade — 
 the  train  was  shunted  off  the  line,  to  admit 
 of  H.  H.  the  Viceroy's  private  despatch  train 
 passing  on  its  route.  Here  we  were  detained 
 twenty  minutes  ;  and  as  I  watched  that  de- 
 spatch train  approach  the  terminus,  thinking 
 that  I  might  be  gratified  with  a  glimpse  of 
 some  of  the  Cabinet  ministers,  who  I  naturally 
 concluded  were  seated  in  it,  I  was  surprised  at 
 beholding  the  heads  of  several  young  ladies 
 thrust  out  of  the  first-class  carriage  which  was 
 attached  to  the  tender.  My  curiosity  was  con- 
 siderably excited  when  I  saw  that  their  cast  of 
 countenance  was  either  Levantine  or  German. 
 They  wore  no  bonnets;  long  black  veils  were 
 thrown  carelessly  over  their  heads ;  and  they 
 were  attired  in  black  latarahs.  Then  I 
 naturally  exclaimed  to  myself, — 
 
 "  What  hasty  news  is  now  abroad  ? 
 What  revel  rout 
 Is  kept  about  ?" 
 
 And,  when  they  arrived  at  the  station,  I  heard 
 them  distinctly  conversing  both  in  French  and 
 German. 
 
viceroy's  private  despatches.  5 
 
 Turning  round  to  my  fellow-passenger,  Mr. 
 Xenos — who  sat,  ruminating,  perhaps,  on  the 
 state  of  the  cotton  market,  in  the  corner  of 
 the  carriage  nearest  the  main  line — I  inquired 
 of  him  why  that  train  was  designated  "the 
 Viceroys  private  despatches."  He  smiled,  and 
 said,  "  Well,  I  cannot  exactly  tell  you ;  but,  in 
 all  probability,  it  is  because  it  is  always  appro- 
 priated for  the  purpose  of  conveying  all  fair 
 damsels  who  may  chance  to  come  on  flying 
 visits  to  H.  H.  Ismael  Pacha ;  and  as  foreign 
 ladies  are  generally  the  very  essence  of  intrigue, 
 may  it  not  be  possible  that  they  are  the  bearers 
 of  secret  despatches  ?  But  as  it  is  not  my 
 province  to  unfold  the  mysteries  of  H.  H.  the 
 Viceroy's  private  despatches,  all  I  can  say 
 upon  the  subject  is,  that  I  hope  that  that 
 courteous  prince  will  enjoy  the  pleasure  of 
 their  society  with  that  otium  dignitate  that 
 a  ruler  of  Egypt  knows  so  well  how  to 
 appreciate." 
 
 I  learnt  much  more  about  EL  H.  s  private 
 despatches,  during  my  residence  in  Florence, 
 from  a  German  lady,  who  kept  a  Bureau  du 
 Remplacement  in  the  Via  de  la  Scala,  but  from 
 
6 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 which  beautiful  capital  of  Italy  she  has  since 
 disappeared. 
 
 The  private  despatch  train  rushed  on  at  full 
 speed,  and  we  followed,  about  ten  minutes 
 afterwards,  in  its  trail,  at  a  snail's  pace. 
 
 The  ice  having  been  broken  between  myself 
 and  my  fellow-travellers,  the  conversation 
 naturally  led  to  the  purport  of  my  visit  to  the 
 "Land  of  Dates"  and  its  merchant  ruler.  In 
 reply  to  a  few  trivial  questions  I  had  put  to 
 the  Greek  merchant,  Mr.  Xenos  very  kindly 
 explained  to  me  that  his  twenty  years'  ex- 
 perience of  life  in  Egypt  led  him  to  regard  my 
 position  as  one  fraught  with  considerable  per- 
 plexity; and,  as  I  afterwards  found  that  his 
 observations  were  perfectly  correct,  I  shall  give 
 them  in  detail,  as  their  purport  bears  directly 
 on  Harem  Life  and  the  intrigues  of  the  Egyp- 
 tian Star  Chamber. 
 
 "  But,"  added  that  amiable  gentleman,  "  much 
 depends  upon  the  conduct  of  H.  H.  the  Vice- 
 roy towards  yourself,  and  that  of  his  confi- 
 dential advisers.  Perhaps  I  err  in  using 
 that  expression,  for  His  Excellency  Ismael 
 Rescind  Pacha,    who  is  H.  H.  s  confidential 
 
a  greek's  description. 
 
 7 
 
 adviser,  and  a  near  relative,  is,  I  am  prone 
 to  believe,  an  upright  Turk,  who  always  has 
 his  hands  full  in  counteracting  the  plots  and 
 machinations  of  the  favourites  arid  reputed 
 partners  of  the  billionaire  merchant  prince ; 
 for  as  H.  H.  Ismael  Pacha  receives  you,  so 
 will  His  Excellency  Eeschid  Pacha,  his  tried 
 and  faithful  friend  and  relative,  behave  to- 
 wards you. 
 
 "  If  you  can  manage  to  keep  on  good  terms 
 with  that  minister,  all  will  go  well  with  you  ;  for 
 do  man  in  Egypt  understands  the  difficulties  of 
 your  position  better  than  His  Excellency,  who 
 has  to  combat  in  the  day  against  all  the  arts 
 and  influences  that  are  generally  brought  to 
 bear  upon  the  mind  of  H.  H.  the  Viceroy  at  the 
 reputed  orgies  which  take  place  at  the  Palace  at 
 night,  when  His  Excellency  is  safely  housed 
 within  the  precincts  of  his  own  '  Abode  of 
 Bliss,'  or  very  early  in  the  morning,  when 
 Ismael  Pacha — for  he  is  up  at  the  dawn  of  day 
 — is  steaming  up  the  Nile  at  three  or  four 
 o'clock,  sitting  on  the  sofa  in  the  poop  of  one 
 of  his  fairy -like  yachts,  smoking  cigarettes, 
 and  sipping,  not  real  Mocha,  but  full-bodied 
 
8 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 and  refreshing  Burgundy,  though  he  be  a  true 
 believer. 
 
 "It  is  the  demeanour  of  the  clique  about  H.H. 
 and  the  reputed  co-partners  towards  you,  that 
 I  would  have  you  watch  and  scrutinize  most 
 carefully.  Life  in  the  Harems  of  the  Egyp- 
 tian rulers  has  never  been  faithfully  described 
 by  any  authors,  for  the  simple  reason  that  no 
 unbeliever  has  as  yet  been  domiciled  therein  ; 
 to  them  it  has  been  an  unknown  land,  and  one 
 of  myths ;  their  pen-drawings,  however,  are 
 far  from  encouraging,  and  the  late  lamented 
 Dr.  Abbott,  who  collected  the  most  unique, 
 most  valuable,  and  perfect  museum  of  Egyptian 
 curiosities  which  the  Americans  possess,  has 
 left  a  very  clever  work,  in  which  he  describes 
 them  as  being  in  his  day  'the  very  focus  of 
 low  intrigue,  the  scenes  of  profligacy  of  the 
 most  abhorrent  nature,  ah !  and  of  crimes  of 
 the  deepest  die ; '  but,  thanks  to  the  en- 
 lightenment of  the  age  in  which  we  live,  a 
 most  wonderful  and  beneficial  improvement 
 has,  I  have  been  assured,  taken  p]ace,  even  in 
 those  sacred  places. 
 
 "  The  signification  of  the  word  Harem  is  a 
 
S0LYMAN  PACHA. 
 
 9 
 
 perfect  misnomer  in  our  European  acceptation 
 of  the  expression,  unless  indeed  we  interpret  it 
 by  its  other  and  far  more  appropriate  meaning, 
 'interdicted/  since  it  is  considered  by  all 
 Moslems  as  implying  '  The  Abode  of  Bliss/ 
 and  the  type  or  model  of  that  celestial  para- 
 dise of  houris,  which  the  prophet  Mahomet 
 has  inculcated  into  the  minds  of  his  followers 
 will  be  their  Kishmet,  'fate/  when  they  shall 
 enter  the  seventh  heaven  in  the  world  to  come. 
 Hence  the  reason  why  those  monsters  of  men, 
 those  spectres  of  their  sex,  the  chief  enunchs, 
 are  styled  Kislar  Agaci,  1  the  captain  of  the 
 girls;'  and  also  Dar-us-seadet  Agaci,  'the 
 guardian  of  the  Abode  of  Bliss/ 
 
 "Besides,  many  of  the  recent  Viceroys  of 
 Egypt  finished  their  education  in  France,  so 
 that  I  am  inclined  to  believe  that  a  great  ame- 
 lioration has  taken  place  of  late  years  in  their 
 internal  menage ;  and  Solyman  Pacha  the  Mag- 
 nificent introduced  great  innovations  into  the 
 domestic  habits  and  customs  of  the  inmates 
 of  his  Harem,  as  also  among  the  manners 
 and  customs  of  the  Princes  themselves ;  and, 
 if  I  am  correctly  informed,  many  of  the  late 
 
10 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Pachas  had  not  only  their  palaces  furnished 
 in  the  European  style,  but  surrounded  them- 
 selves with  foreign  attendants,  and  even  had 
 English  nurses  for  their  children.  This  is  the 
 case  with  H.  H.  Mustapha  Pacha,  the  heir  pre- 
 sumptive to  the  Viceroyship,  who  not  only 
 treats  that  person  with  respect,  but  contri- 
 butes most  liberally  to  all  her  wants  and  re- 
 quirements a  la  Europeenne ;  but  then  the 
 manners,  language,  and  habits  of  those  do- 
 mestics could  not  have  tended,  in  any  bene- 
 ficial degree,  to  ameliorate  the  characters  of  the 
 children  committed  to  their  care,  and  none 
 of  them  have  been  intelligent  enough  to  give 
 us  an  insight  into  Harem  life.  So  I  would 
 fain  trust  that  you  will  not  find  your  position 
 so  unbearable  as  you  may  have  led  yourself  to 
 suppose. 
 
 "At  all  events  you  must  keep  yourself  clear  of 
 the  petty  intrigues  of  the  court  cabals.  Watch 
 with  a  careful  eye  the  manner  in  which  the 
 three  Princesses,  H.  H/s  wives,  behave  towards 
 you.  Endeavour  to  gain,  not  only  their  respect 
 and  good  opinion,  but,  what  is  of  primary  im- 
 portance, their  confidence,  especially  that  of 
 
JEALOUSY  OF  PRINCESSES.  11 
 
 the  mother  of  the  young  Prince ;  but,  as  she 
 is  only  the  second  wife,  she  is  not  the  Lady 
 Paramount,  for  the  first  Spouse  claims  that 
 prerogative. 
 
 "  Sad  tales  of  the  jealousy  of  Princesses  in 
 the  Egyptian  Harems  have  been  circulated,  and 
 accurately  too,  as  I  can  vouch  for  the  veracity 
 of  my  informant ;  so  that  it  may  be  possible 
 that,  should  you  find  it  necessary  to  battle 
 with  H.  H.  s  reputed  associates  to  obtain  Eu- 
 ropean comforts  about  you,  and  to  maintain 
 your  status  as  an  English  lady,  the  mere 
 granting  of  those  absolute  necessaries  for  your 
 individual  comfort,  might  arouse  that  green- 
 eyed  monster,  jealousy,  within  their  viceregal 
 bosoms,  as  their  entire  ignorance  of  your  habits 
 will  make  them  regard  such  trivial  attentions 
 on  the  part  of  their  liege  lord  and  master  as 
 signs  of  his  too  pointed  wish  to  become  on 
 terms  of  familiar  intimacy  with  you." 
 
 "  Well  done  ! "  interrupted  Mr.  Cohen.  "  You 
 are  giving  Madam  a  most  truthful  account  of 
 her  position ;  but,  my  dear  Xenos,  you  appear 
 to  forget  that  our  fellow-traveller  ought  to 
 learn  to  school  her  too-confiding  mind  to  look 
 
12  HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 upon  the  actions  of  all  around  her  with  the 
 greatest  distrust." 
 
 Then  addressing  himself  to  me,  he  continued. 
 "I  would  have  you,  Madam,  alive  to  the 
 well-established  fact,  that  the  whole  coterie 
 into  which  you  will  be  introduced  is  the  very 
 hot-bed  of  intrigue,  jealousy,  and  corruption ; 
 but  yet,  let  me  trust,  not  of  profligacy.  The 
 chief  eunuch  is  generally  supposed  to  possess 
 absolute  powers  within  the  Harem,  even  over 
 the  Princesses ;  but  as  that  all-powerful 
 Egyptian,  Prince  Baksheesh,  is  the  actual  ruler 
 of  Egypt,  you  may  take  my  word  for  it  that 
 most  important  personage  is  himself  the  abject 
 slave  of  H.  H.  s  reputed  associates,  for  as  long 
 as  they  can  command  the  favours  of  that  omni- 
 potent prince,  and  bask  in  the  sunshine  of  vice- 
 regal smiles,  to  them  is  reported  the  sayings 
 and  doings  of  those  '  caged  birds '  within  the 
 walls  of  the  ' Abodes  of  Bliss/ 
 
 "  I  admit  that  your  position  as  an  English 
 lady  entitles  you  to  receive  every  attention,  yet 
 at  the  same  time  you  will  be  called  upon  to 
 conform  to  many  strange  whims,  fancies,  and 
 customs,  which  may  appear  most  singular  and 
 
DIFFICULTIES. 
 
 13 
 
 outlandish  to  your  European  notions ;  nay, 
 many  may  even  seem  quite  repugnant  to  your 
 naturally  sensitive  feelings ;  but  you  will,  I 
 hope,  by  the  influence  of  your  example,  be  able 
 to  graft  a  few  civilized  customs  on  their  Arab 
 and  Turkish  manners.    Your  apparent  amia- 
 bility of  manner  will,  in  all  probability,  cause 
 you  to  be  respected  by  H.  H.  the  Viceroy, 
 beloved  by  H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha  Ibrahim, 
 esteemed  by  their  Highnesses  the  three  wives, 
 and  the  Princesses  their  daughters.    And  no 
 doubt  your  position  will  cause  you  to  be  feared 
 by  the  slaves,  among  whom,  I  must  caution 
 you,  commence  those  petty  intrigues  which  have 
 hurled  favourites  from  their  apexes,  gathered 
 ruling  concubines  to  their  last  accounts,  led 
 to  the  sudden  disappearance,  and  in  many 
 instances  most  unaccountably  strange  deaths, 
 of  numerous  viceroys,  who  have  falsely  been 
 reported  to  have  died  suddenly  of  apoplexy ; 
 to  the  unfastening  of  the  bolts  of  the  viceregal 
 railway-trains  ;   the  poisoning  of  the  dates 
 that  infant  nephews  have  handed  to  their 
 viceregal  uncles  :   all  these,  and  many  more 
 equally  atrocious  deeds,  have  been  concocted 
 
14 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 within  the  magic  circle  of  a  band  of  Harem 
 slaves." 
 
 "  Ah !  ah !  Indeed,"  exclaimed  the  Greek 
 merchant,  "  your  task,  my  dear  madam,  will  not 
 have  been  half  achieved,  unless  you  can  gain  the 
 friendship  and  co-operation  of  H.  H/s  reputed 
 men  of  business  ;  no  easy  matter,  especially  as 
 they  are  not  much  gifted  with  that  suavity  of 
 manners  which  ladies  are  accustomed  to  expect 
 from  the  male  sex.  By  Europeans,  Arabs,  and 
 Egyptians,  they  are  styled  H.  H/s  reputed  part- 
 ners. But  I  deeply  regret/'  continued  Mr.  Xenos, 
 "  that  any  English  lady  should  have  accepted 
 such  an  appointment ;  and  knowing,  as  I  do, 
 the  strong  antipathy  that  all  Germans  and 
 Arabs  entertain  towards  the  English,  I  would 
 strongly  urge  upon  you,  even  at  this  the 
 eleventh  hour,  the  propriety  of  abandoning  the 
 idea  of  entering  H.  H/s  service. 
 
 "  In  support  of  this  suggestion  I  shall  merely 
 explain  to  you  that  I  have  resided  many  years 
 both  in  Egypt  and  Constantinople,  and  from 
 my  dearly-bought  experience  of  Egyptian  and 
 Turkish  life,  I  lament  that  any  European  lady 
 should  contemplate  domiciling  herself  within 
 
DIFFICULTIES. 
 
 15 
 
 the  baleful  influence  of  the  viceregal  Harem ; 
 for  be  assured  that  you  will  lack  all  the  con- 
 veniences, much  more  the  agreemens,  of  a  Euro- 
 pean residence.  H.  H.  Ismael  Pacha,  Viceroy 
 though  he  be,  is  a  true  merchant  at  heart,  and 
 squanders  not  away  his  paras  in  costly  fur- 
 niture for  his  wives.  And  yet  you  will  find 
 H.  H.  s  palaces  and  yachts  decorated  in  the 
 most  sumptuous  style  a  la  Eiiropeennc. 
 
 "  That  is  not  the  only  drawback  that  awaits 
 you.  The  peculiar  diet  of  the  '  caged  birds '  of 
 the  Viceroy's  Elysium  is  literally  cuisine  d 
 I'Arabe,  which  will  be  most  unpalatable  to 
 your  taste,  even  if  it  does  not  (of  which  I  enter- 
 tain great  fears)  prove  most  injurious  to  your 
 health.  The  nature  of  the  climate  renders 
 it  obligatory  on  Europeans  to  imbibe  much 
 greater  quantities  of  stimulants — such  as  pale 
 ale  and  wine — than  they  have  been  accustomed 
 to  partake  of  in  their  own  colder  climate ;  and 
 I  do  not  imagine  that  those  forbidden  liquors, 
 although  quaffed  so  copiously  by  H.  H.  the 
 Viceroy,  will  be  provided  for  you.  It  is  a  well- 
 known  fact,  that  their  Highnesses  the  wives 
 drink  quantities  of  Schiedam.     Then  again 
 
16 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 the  entire  atmosphere  of  the  Harem  and  its 
 grounds  must  necessarily  be  impregnated  with 
 the  fumes  of  tobacco,  into  which  powerful  nar- 
 cotics are  introduced,  so  that  the  air  which  you 
 will  breathe  will  prove  injurious  to  your  consti- 
 tution ;  besides,  the  loose  and  ud  cleanly  habits 
 of  the  attendants,  more  particularly  those  of 
 the  Arab  nurses,  will  disgust  you ;  and  the 
 sad  monotony  of  the  daily  life  you  will  be 
 called  upon  to  lead  will  be  of  such  a  melan- 
 choly, convent-like  nature,  that  in  my  opinion 
 it  were  better  far  that  you  had  immured  your- 
 self within  the  cell  of  a  nunnery,  than  entered 
 the  precincts  of  a  Harem." 
 
 I  listened  most  attentively  to  Mr.  Xenos's 
 account  of  the  difficulties  of  my  position,  and 
 almost  repented  of  having  accepted  the  ap- 
 pointment ;  still  I  could  not  help  observing  that 
 I  was  afraid  he  had  overcoloured  the  picture. 
 
 "Believe  me,"  interrupted  Mr.  Cohen,  "my 
 friend  has  only  given  you  a  faint  outline  of 
 Harem  life  in  Egypt,  and  if  anything,  that 
 delineation,  dark  as  it  appears  to  you,  is  really 
 not  overdrawn;  in  fact,  it  falls  short  of  the 
 reality,  even  so  far  as  we  forbidden  intruders 
 
OPINION  OF  FAIR  SEX. 
 
 17 
 
 into  those  castles  of  pleasure  have  hitherto  been 
 able  to  learn.  You,  who  are  about  so  soon  to 
 enter  those  '  sacred '  recesses  of  viceregal  life, 
 will  have  an  opportunity  of  judging  of  the  cor- 
 rectness of  my  views  on  this  head. 
 
 "  I  would  however,  above  all  things,  impress 
 upon  your  mind  the  actual  value  which  all 
 Turks,  Egyptians,  Levantines,  and,  (it  is  with 
 feelings  akin  to  shame  that  I  affirm  it,)  even 
 Europeans,  who  have  been  domiciled  some 
 time  in  the  Ottoman  dominions,  entertain  of 
 the  fair  sex.  They  regard  women,  my  dear 
 madam,  of  every  nation  and  of  all  grades  in 
 society,  as  the  mere  slaves  to  their  sensual 
 gratification.  Hence  the  reason  that  they  keep 
 their  wives,  daughters,  and  concubines,  caged 
 up  in  lattice-windowed  houses ;  protect  them 
 by  eunuchs,  those  atoms  of  mankind,  whom 
 they  deprive  of  all  social  intercourse  with  the 
 male  sex  and  the  outer  world,  and  treat  as 
 abject  slaves.  Many  erudite  writers  on  Oriental 
 life  have  gone  so  far  as  to  question  whether 
 they  are  properly  so  termed,  for  it  is  certain 
 that  many  of  these  guardians  of  the  beauties 
 of  the  East  have  married  the  wives  of  their 
 
 vol.  i.  c 
 
18 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 lords  and  masters,  whom  they  had  previously 
 sent  to  that  '  bourne  whence  no  traveller  returns' 
 — and  report  adds,  have  even  had  large  families 
 by  them. 
 
 "  These  remarks  are  not,  however,  so  appli- 
 cable to  Harem  life  in  Constantinople,  as  in 
 Egypt ;  for,  in  the  lovely-situated  capital  on  the 
 Bosphorus,  the  ladies  of  the  Harems  enjoy  both 
 carriage  and  caique  airing  daily,  and  revel  in 
 a  degree  of  freedom  altogether  unknown  in 
 Egypt.  In  the  East  the  male  sex  think,  as 
 Butler  has  so  naively  expressed  it  in  his  bur- 
 lesque poem  of  Hudibras — 
 
 "  1  Women  first  were  made  for  men, 
 Not  men  for  them.    It  follows,  then, 
 That  men  have  right  to  every  one, 
 And  they  no  freedom  of  their  own.' 
 
 "  In  Pharaoh  s  land,  that  sex,  formed  by  the 
 Creator  of  the  Universe  to  become  the  solace 
 and  companion  of  the  fallen  sons  of  Adam,  is 
 prized  by  the  stronger  sex,  whose  duty  it  most 
 unquestionably  ought  to  be  to  protect  them, 
 only  for  the  price  in  gold  that  they  give  or 
 can  obtain  for  them ;   they  are  viewed  as 
 
LAXITY  OF  MORALS. 
 
 19 
 
 marketable  commodities,  just  as  a  chapman 
 calculates  the  value  of  his  bales  of  merchandize. 
 Hence  the  reason  why  Turks  and  Egyptians 
 will  always  remain  semi-barbarians,  until  a 
 radical  change  can  be  effected  in  their  families 
 by  means  of  education,  that  slow  but  sure 
 precursor  of  civilization. 
 
 "  But  most  unhappily  for  the  speedy  ameliora- 
 tion of  such  a  deplorable  state  of  things,  even 
 Europeans,  who  have  lived  long  in  any  part  of 
 the  Ottoman  dominions,  imbibe  the  same  laxity 
 of  morals,  and  disreputable  ideas."  [Of  the 
 veracity  of  this  assertion  I  had  ample  proof 
 during  my  residence  at  Mr.  B/s,  at  Cairo,  as 
 there  an  acquaintance  of  that  gentleman  hesi- 
 tated not  to  introduce  into  his  apartment  a 
 person  of  most  questionable  character,  at  which 
 I  remonstrated,  and  threatened  to  return  to 
 Zech's  Hotel,  if  such  conduct  was  repeated.] 
 "  So  that  they  hesitate  not  to  tread  in  the  foot- 
 steps of  the  votaries  of  the  Koran,  keep  Harems, 
 entrap  European  women  into  their  clutches, 
 and  as  calmly  and  coolly  dispose  of  them,  as  if 
 they  had  been  born  slaves. 
 
 "  Would  time  permit,  I  could  also  disclose  to 
 c  2 
 
20 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 you  many  instances  of  blank  cheques,  bonds, 
 heavy  mortgages  on  estates,  most  of  which 
 have  been  foreclosed,  nay,  most  lucrative  offices, 
 under  the  Ottoman  and  Egyptian  Governments, 
 having  been  bartered  away  by  licentious  Egyp- 
 tian and  Turkish  princes  and  millionaires,  to 
 unprincipled  Europeans,  for  gems  of  female 
 dots  of  humanity,  many  of  whom,  to  their 
 everlasting  shame  and  degradation  be  it  stated, 
 even  now  rank  as  the  creme  de  la  creme  of 
 European  society  in  the  Ottoman  dominions. 
 Legions  are  the  instances  I  could  enumerate  of 
 men,  the  abject  scum  of  the  earth,  rising  to 
 enormous  wealth,  and  holding  high  positions, 
 both  in  Egypt  and  Turkey,  by  means  of  such 
 base  and  shameful  infamy. 
 
 "The  Crimean  war  produced  a  most  bane- 
 ful influence  on  the  morals  of  the  different 
 Levantine  populations  of  all  grades.  The  re- 
 quirements of  the  vast  armaments  that  were 
 concentrated  there,  brought  untold  sums  of 
 gold  into  the  coffers  of  traders  of  all  denomina- 
 tions. Prussian  Jews,  the  very  refuse  of  the 
 good  city  of  Frankfort,  the  Israelitish  popula- 
 tion of  which  is  so  celebrated  for  its  craft, 
 
PARVENU- MILLIONAIRES. 
 
 21 
 
 duplicity,  tergiversation,  and,  as  the  slang 
 phrase  is,  1  sticking  at  nothing ; '  together 
 with  the  scum  of  Italy,  Spain,  France,  Malta, 
 Greece,  and  the  Levant,  became  suddenly  en- 
 riched by  that  disastrous  struggle.  Many  who 
 at  the  commencement  of  that  war  were  literally 
 homeless,  shoeless,  and  penniless,  are  now 
 millionaires  in  Egypt — for 
 
 "  1  Feeling  ashamed  of  their  antecedents  in  their  native  land, 
 They  rushed  off  in  shoals  to  the  land  of  flies  and  sand,' 
 
 and  the  shores  of  the  lovely  Bosphorus,  where 
 they  now  roll  about  in  their  carriages,  keep 
 large  establishments,  live  in  cuisine  d  FArabe, 
 and  give  spreads  of  twenty  to  thirty  covers, 
 and  drink  the  choicest  wines.  Their  tables, 
 when  laid  out,  would  challeuge  the  chef -de- 
 cuisine  of  Gunter  to  make  a  handsomer 
 appearance  :  the  mouth  of  a  gourmand  would 
 absolutely  water  at  the  sight  of  those  inviting- 
 looking  viands.  But  be  fully  assured,  kind 
 reader,  that  the  moment  he  tasted  them,  unless, 
 indeed,  he  had  been  previously  accustomed  to 
 Arab  diet,  he  would  become  perfectly  disgusted 
 with  the  gout  of  those  filthy  messes.  They 
 
22 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 keep  large  establishments,  speculate  in  cotton, 
 hold  hundreds  of  bank,  railway,  and  joint- 
 company  shares,  receive  large  deposits  from 
 Europeans,  for  which  they  give  from  twenty- 
 five  to  thirty  per  cent,  interest ;  and  in  short 
 are  the  Hudsons  of  Egypt  and  the  Ottoman 
 Empire. 
 
 "  Their  banking  operations  are  immense  ;  the 
 loans  w-hich  they  advance  to  the  Arabs,  who  bury 
 their  gains  in  their  Harems,  instead  of  putting 
 them  out  to  interest,  or  using  them  to  meet 
 their  current  expenses,  are  most  numerous  and 
 profitable.  In  short,  these  are  the  class  of  men 
 who  are  all-powerful  in  Egypt ;  these  are  the 
 reputed  individuals  who  possess  the  contracts 
 for  every  public  work,  from  the  opening  of  new 
 railways  down  to  the  almost  insignificant  im- 
 provement of  paving  the  roads  of  its  ancient 
 capital." 
 
ACTUAL  RULERS  OF  EGYPT.  23 
 
 CHAPTEK  II. 
 
 "  I  think,  if  my  memory  is  correct,  I  heard 
 you,  my  dear  madam,  complain  of  the  manner 
 in  which  you  were  jostled  about  on  landing  at 
 Alexandria ;  how  roughly  the  Custom-house 
 officers  examined  your  baggage,  notwithstand- 
 ing that  they  knew  the  position  you  came  to 
 hold?" 
 
 "Yes,  indeed,  I  did,  Mr.  Cohen,  and  can  en- 
 dorse the  veracity  of  the  statement  made  by  a 
 contributor  to  Once  a  W eek,  who  most  naively 
 and  truthfully  asserts  that — 
 
 " 1  The  land  of  Egypt  is  ruled  over  by  twenty 
 Princes  ;  one  of  whom  is  the  Viceroy,  eighteen 
 of  the  others  are  known  as  Consuls  General  of 
 European  nations,  but  the  twentieth  is  the 
 most  powerful  of  all,  and  his  name  is  Baksheesh 
 ("  Gift,  Present,  Bribery").  Very  little,  indeed, 
 can  be  done  without  the  aid  or  countenance  of 
 
24 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Baksheesh  :  he  is  the  ruling  power.  Not  a 
 single  package  of  a  traveller's  luggage  (no,  not 
 even  that  belonging  to  the  Governess  of 
 H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha  Jbraham,  the  infant  son 
 of  the  Viceroy),  not  a  bale  of  goods  can  enter 
 or  be  shipped  out  of  the  country  without  his 
 leave ;  not  a  handful  of  cotton  can  leave  it 
 without  paying  him  tribute. 
 
 " '  Do  you  want  to  set  up  a  steam-engine,  to 
 build  a  house,  hire  a  lighter,  to  send  goods  off 
 by  train,  to  do  something  which  you  have 
 no  right  to  do,  to  get  something  which  you 
 have  no  right  to  get  ?  Why,  then,  invoke 
 Baksheesh;  offer  up  a  proper  quantity  of  piastres 
 on  his  shrine,  and  the  thing  is  done.  Imagine 
 that  you  can  get  on  without  his  aid,  and  you 
 will  soon  find  out  your  mistake.  Put  your 
 faith  in  the  most  potent  of  his  brother  princes, 
 and  see  how  you  will  fare.  Baksheesh  will 
 stop  you  in  the  corridor,  as  you  approach  the 
 viceregal  presence,  and  if  he  frown,  small  profit 
 will  spring  from  your  interview.  Dodge  past 
 him,  get  your  order,  your  permit,  your  judg- 
 ment, concession,  or  what  not,  and  the  day  of 
 submission  is  but  postponed.     You  can  call 
 
PRINCE  BAKSHEESH. 
 
 25 
 
 spirits  from  the  vasty  deep,  but  will  they  come  ? 
 Can  you  put  what  you  have  gained  into  execu- 
 tion, without  the  aid  of  Baksheesh  ?  Not  a  bit 
 of  it.  Let  your  own  special  "  Prince  "  back  up 
 your  petition,  let  the  Viceroy  grant  it,  let  the 
 Minister  of  State  draw  up  the  order,  let  the 
 highest  personage  in  the  department  be  charged 
 to  carry  it  out  on  your  behalf,  and  what  have 
 you  got  ?  Nothing — absolutely  nothing.  Get 
 a  firman  from  H.  M.  the  Sultan  himself,  and 
 you  are  not  any  better  off. 
 
 " '  Baksheesh  has  creatures,  nominally  filling 
 some  fifth-rate  government  post,  any  of  whom 
 can  put  a  spoke  in  your  wheel.  Baksheesh  is 
 the  very  essence  of  bribery  and  corruption,  and 
 without  his  aid  nothing  can  be  done.  As  the 
 Nile  water  is  to  the  land,  so  is  bribery  and 
 corruption  to  the  rulers  and  people  of  Egypt. 
 Nothing  is  produced  without  it/ 
 
 "  Exactly  so,  madam/'  interrupted  the  Greek 
 merchant,  laughing  most  heartily.  "  That  writer 
 has  hit  the  nail  upon  the  right  head,  and  I  strongly 
 suspect  that  he  must  have  had  considerable  ex- 
 perience in  Her  Britannic  Majesty's  court  at 
 Alexandria,  so  admirably  and  faithfully  does 
 
26 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 he  describe  the  state  of  things  in  Egypt  in  this 
 the  nineteenth  century.  But  come,  Cohen,  as 
 I  am  quite  certain  that  sooner  or  later  our 
 fair  traveller  will  be  brought  in  contact  with 
 the  firm  of  Messrs.  H.  at  Cleopatra's  ancient 
 capital  when  next  she  returns  thereto,  if  not 
 with  some  of  their  partners  at  Cairo,  pray 
 give  us  a  brief  sketch  of  the  autobiography  of 
 those  reputed  Egyptian  Eothschilds,  as  they 
 have  been,  and  most  assuredly  will  be  again, 
 mixed  up  with  many  an  intrigue  of  Harem 
 Life." 
 
 "  Well,  as  I  trust  that  you  will  pardon  the 
 prolixity  of  my  sketches  of  Egypt  as  it  is, 
 I  will  use  my  best  endeavours  to  give  you 
 as  graphic  a  sketch  as  possible  of  Messrs. 
 H.  the  eminent  financiers  of  Egypt.  The 
 family  of  the  H/s  were  born  and  bred  in  the 
 pretty  village  of  Oppenheim,  on  the  banks  of 
 the  far-famed  Rhine.  For  years  they  struggled 
 on,  fighting  the  battle  of  life,  and  managed 
 during  the  Crimean  war  to  follow  the  occupa- 
 tion of  sutlers  in  the  British  camp  at  Balak- 
 lava.  There  they  drove  a  most  lucrative  trade, 
 and  greatly  contributed  to  the  comforts  of  our 
 
A  CRIMEAN  SUTLER. 
 
 27 
 
 officers  and  soldiers.  At  a  time  when  the 
 British  commissariat  was  in  the  most  fright- 
 ful disorder,  the  younger  members  of  the  firm 
 might  be  seen  driving  their  waggons  about  the 
 camp  in  all  directions ;  hence  the  reason  that 
 they  are  such  '  good  whips/  I  remember  a 
 commissariat  officer  now  resident  in  Egypt 
 telling  me  that  the  Commander-in-Chief,  Lord 
 Eaglan,  had  rated  him  pretty  handsomely  be- 
 cause he  had  allowed  Messrs.  H.  s  waggons  to 
 blockade,  as  it  were,  the  leading  thoroughfare 
 in  the  camp.  There  they  accumulated  vast 
 sums  by  selling  pale  ale,  wines,  and  spirits. 
 
 "  At  the  close  of  the  Crimean  war  they  hur- 
 ried off  to  Egypt,  and  having  been  so  fortunate 
 as  to  attract  the  notice  of  H.  H.  Ismael  Pacha, 
 the  Viceroy,  that  Prince  is  reported  to  have 
 lent  them  a  few  thousands,  and  finding  them 
 thorough  men  of  business,  always  intent  upon 
 making  cent,  per  cent,  they  became  his  reputed 
 associates  in  mercantile  pursuits.  The  wealth 
 which  they  had  accumulated  soon  gave  them  a 
 standing  in  the  European  commercial  world ; 
 Egyptian  loans  were  forced  into  the  markets 
 of  London  and  Paris  by  their  skill,  tact,  and 
 
28 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 manoeuvring ;  that  stock  maintained  its  price. 
 Then  came  the  cotton  mania.  Taking  advantage 
 of  the  American  civil  war,  they  induced  H.  H. 
 the  Viceroy  to  plant  cotton  most  extensively  ; 
 and  by  means  of  His  Highness  s  command  of 
 forced  labour,  railway  and  telegraph  communi- 
 cation, steam  navigation  on  the  Nile,  taking 
 forcible  possession  of  the  Nile  boats,  lighters, 
 weighers ;  having  orders  issued  to  the  Sheiks 
 to  lay  heavy  impositions  on  the  lightermen, 
 labourers,  carmen,  donkeymen  ;  •  depriving  the 
 steamboat  agents  of  the  labourers  whom  they 
 had  procured  at  most  fabulous  wages,  to  the 
 detriment  of  the  interest  of  the  whole  of  the 
 legitimate  commercial  community  of  Egypt, 
 both  native  and  European ; — they  raised  the 
 private  fortune  of  H.  H.  Ismael  Pacha  from 
 £600,000  per  annum  to  upwards  of  two  to 
 two  millions  and  a  half  of  pounds  sterling. 
 
 "Their  success  as  His  Highness's  private 
 financiers  (for  none  of  them  hold  any  appoint- 
 ments under  the  Egyptian  Government,  but 
 into  the  favour  of  all  of  whose  officials  they 
 have  ingratiated  themselves ;  of  course  their 
 propitiation  of  the  sovereign  ruler  of  Egypt, 
 
THE  BILLIONAIRE  MERCHANT  PRINCE.  29 
 
 Prince  Baksheesh,  has  tended  to  place  them 
 upon  a  friendly  footing  with  all  parties,  except 
 the  mercantile  community,  with  whom,  they  are 
 generally  at  'daggers  drawn/)  has  been  most 
 amply  rewarded,  for  they  are  reputed  to  be 
 associated  with  His  Highness  not  merely  in 
 his  mercantile  pursuits,  but  also  to  enjoy  the 
 benefit  of  the  concessions  that  the  Viceroy  has 
 made  of  railways,  contracts  for  improving  the 
 city  of  Alexandria,  the  purchase  of  steamboats, 
 machinery,  making  roads,  paving  streets,  form- 
 ing steamboat  navigation  companies,  forming 
 existing  railways,  post-offices,  opening  banks, 
 &c.  in  nearly  all  of  which  His  Highness,  as 
 plain  Ismael  Pacha,  holds  the  greater  number 
 of  shares.  Independently  of  this  they  are  the 
 purveyors  to  the  Harems  of  all  European  con- 
 diments, and  the  miscellaneous  medley  of  costly 
 articles  both  of  jewellery,  china,  clothing,  &c. 
 used  therein,  a  monopoly  which  is  a  fortune  of 
 itself.  They  have  branch  houses  also  all  over 
 the  Continent. 
 
 "The  head  of  the  firm,  a  gentleman  of  the 
 Jewish  persuasion,  is  much  respected  in  the 
 circle  in  which  he  moves.    He,  however,  takes 
 
30 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 but  little  interest  in  the  business  of  the  house, 
 and  may  therefore  be  looked  upon  as  a  sleep- 
 ing or  travelling  partner,  as  he  is  like  a  loco- 
 motive engine,  always  on  the  move.    His  son, 
 who  generally  resides  in  Alexandria,  is  the 
 prop  of  the  establishment.    His  manner  is 
 abrupt,  curt,  and  anything  but  courteous  to  the 
 fair  sex  ;  he  is  an  excellent  man  of  business, 
 and  thoroughly  understands  the  Bristol  mer- 
 chant's advice  to  his  son,  '  Get  money,  John,  . 
 honestly  if  you  can,  but  get  money,  John/ 
 He  is  well  skilled  in  the  arts  and  diplomacy  of 
 all  worldly  matters,  exacting  in  the  extreme, 
 even  in  private  pecuniary  engagements.  He 
 may  most  appropriately  be  termed  H.  H.  the 
 Viceroy's  '  civil  '  aide-de-camp,  if  I  may  be 
 allowed  to  coin  the  expression.     He  is  uni- 
 versally disliked  by  the  whole  of  the  European 
 mercantile  community,  whose  interest  he  is 
 continually  thwarting. 
 
 "  Well  do  I  know  that  he  is  most  bitter  in  his 
 hatred,  hesitates  not  to  act  most  maliciously 
 towards  his  opponents  to  gain  his  ends,  and  if 
 rumour  with  her  hundred  tongues  speaks  truth, 
 he  has  imbibed  the  same  loose  ideas  of  the 
 
HIS  HIGHNESS's  MEN  OF  BUSINESS.  31 
 
 value  of  the  weaker  sex  as  the  Turks  and 
 Egyptians  entertain.  The  member  of  the  firm 
 who  passes  the  greater  portion  of  his  time  on 
 the  banks  of  the  sapphire-looking  Bosphorus 
 is  one  of  the  finest  specimens  of  a  Prussian  Jew 
 you  can  imagine.  His  look,  shrewdness,  cun- 
 ning, craft,  and  countenance,  remind  one  most 
 forcibly  of 
 
 "•The  Jew  that  Shakespeare  drew.' 
 
 He  is  the  very  impersonification  of  Shylock. 
 Measure  them  all  well  by  the  standard  I  have 
 given  you  :  for  their  sole  aim  is  to  make  a 
 profit  out  of  everything,  to  turn  to  account 
 every  article  and  baggage  that  comes  into  their 
 net,  and  to  take  advantage,  '  as  far  as  the  law 
 admits/  of  every  person  with  whom  they  may 
 have  dealings.  They  seem  to  think  that  Chris- 
 tians, as  well  as  Turks  and  infidels,  are  born  to 
 be  pigeoned  most  ruthlessly.  Too  well  do  they 
 know  the  power  of  the  sovereign  ruler  of 
 Egypt — ah !  and  of  the  Ottoman  dominions 
 too — Prince  Baksheesh  ;  and  consequently  they 
 never  fail  to  propitiate  him  with  a  full  quan- 
 tity of  paras. 
 
32 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 "  These  are  the  reputed  associates  of  H.  H.  the 
 Viceroy  in  his  private  capacity  as  Ismael  Pacha, 
 the  merchant  prince ;  and  yet  their  influence 
 is  fortunately  counteracted,  in  a  slight  degree, 
 by  the  just  and  upright  concessions  of  His 
 Excellency  Eeschid  Pacha,  whose  position  is 
 not  a  very  enviable  one,  but  on  whom  falls 
 all  the  malignity  that  ought  to  be  laid  upon 
 other  shoulders.  The  H/s,  it  is  reported,  have 
 often  aided  H.  H.  the  Viceroy  in  many  delicate 
 private  transactions  when  he  was  plain  Ismael 
 Pacha,  and  since  his  accession  to  the  govern- 
 ment ;  hence  the  reason  of  their  possessing  such 
 influence  over  the  son  of  the  gallant  Ibrahim 
 Pacha,  whose  money-getting  and  avaricious 
 propensities  he  inherits  in  a  most  remarkable 
 degree ;  for 
 
 "  1  Ismael  Pacha  is  the  richest  prince  on  earth  ; 
 And  if  his  heart  of  joy  and  peace  knows  no  dearth, 
 He  must  be  the  happiest  of  mortals.    Oh  !  how  blest ! 
 For  all  others  have  a  skeleton  within  their  breast.' " 
 
 "  As  Mr.  H.  H.  seldom  or  ever  visits  H.  H. 
 the  Viceroy,  for  why  or  wherefore,  we  know 
 not,  unless  it  is  because  he  is  of  that  persuasion 
 
MR.  B.  OF  CAIRO. 
 
 33 
 
 yclept  Hebrew,  the  abomination  of  the  Turk, 
 who  will  tolerate  the  intrusion  of  a  Giaour, 
 but  not  that  of  any  Copek  dog  of  an  Israelite, 
 in  whose  presence  he  feels  himself  defiled ; 
 for  though  Mr.  H.  may  think,  like  Shylock, 
 and  say  :  '  Hath  not  a  J ew  hands,  organs, 
 dimensions,  affections,  passions  ?  Fed  with  the 
 same  food,  hurt  with  the  same  means,  subject 
 to  the  same  diseases,  healed  by  the  same  means, 
 warmed  and  cooled  by  the  same  winter  and 
 summer  as  a  Christian  ? ' — still  H.  H.  most  un- 
 questionably considers,  as  all  orthodox  Otto- 
 mans do,  that  *  Dgehennum  will  be  the  portion 
 of  that  accursed  race,  as  there  is  but  one  Allah/ 
 and  therefore  always  kept  his  reputed  but  trusty 
 friend  and  long-headed  private  counsellor  at  a 
 respectful  distance  from  him. 
 
 "  As  you  have  a  letter  of  introduction  to 
 Mr.  B.  of  Cairo,  I  will  just  make  you  an  fait 
 with  the  position  of  that  gentleman.  He  is 
 one  of  the  Viceroy's  oldest  friends,  but  has, 
 unfortunately,  allowed  his  influence  with  His 
 Highness  to  be  supplanted  by  Mr.  C.  H.  and  is 
 therefore  a  mere  tool  in  the  hands  of  that 
 clever  young  man.    Mr.  B.  is  of  Arab  and 
 
 vol.  L  d 
 
34 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Greek  parentage ;  avarice  and  parsimony  are 
 his  characteristics ;  and  yet,  had  he  been  free 
 from  the  thraldom  of  the  firm  I  have  men- 
 tioned, he  would  have  been  more  respected/' 
 
 Just  as  Mr.  Cohen  had  finished  his  description 
 of  His  Highness's  associates,  the  collector  opened 
 the  door  of  the  carriage,  took  our  tickets,  and 
 we  alighted  at  the  Cairo  terminus.  Thanking 
 my  two  agreeable  companions  for  their  atten- 
 tion and  information,  I  accepted  their  offer  to 
 accompany  them  to  Zech's  Hotel,  which  we 
 soon  reached,  but  experienced  some  difficulty 
 in  procuring  the  accommodation  we  required, 
 as  the  whole  establishment  was  in  confusion, 
 owing  to  rather  an  amusing  incident  which  had 
 just  occurred  there. 
 
 It  appeared  that  an  elderly  French  gentle- 
 man, a  distant  relation  of  Messrs.  H.  of  Alex- 
 andria, whom  I  met  afterwards  at  Pistoja, 
 in  Italy,  had  been  staying  there  some  time. 
 During  his  sojourn,  he  had  amused  himself  by 
 travelling  up  the  Nile,  and  into  the  interior 
 of  Egypt,  in  search  of  antiquities.  On  one  of 
 those  excursions  he  fell  accidentally  into  the 
 company  of  an  Italian  and  Arab  commissioner, 
 
SALE  OF  A  MUMMY. 
 
 35 
 
 to  whom  he  stated  his  desire  to  become  pos- 
 sessed of  a  mummy,  perfect  in  every  respect. 
 Both  expressed  their  doubts  as  to  the  possibility 
 of  his  being  able  to  procure  such  a  specimen  of 
 frail  humanity ;  but,  upon  his  offering  them 
 the  munificent  sum  of  six  hundred  sovereigns, 
 they  replied,  after  a  short  deliberation,  that 
 they  would  do  their  best  to  accomplish  his 
 commission. 
 
 It  happened  just  at  that  time  that  an  Italian 
 apothecary,  residing  in  the  suburbs  of  Cairo, 
 had  died  ;  and  the  two  rogues,  taking  advan- 
 tage of  that  event,  hastily  repaired  to  the  abode 
 of  the  defunct.  They  represented  to  the  old 
 housekeeper,  who  had  superintended  his  frugal 
 menage,  that  they  had  received  instructions 
 from  his  friends  at  Pisa — for  he  was  the  scion 
 of  an  old  noble  family  there — that  he  should 
 be  interred  in  the  Catholic  cemetery.  By  that 
 means  they  gained  possession  of  the  body  of 
 the  dispenser  of  drugs.  They  then  procured 
 the  co-operation  of  a  professional  embalmer, 
 who,  steeping  rags  in  those  aromatic  spices 
 so  well  known  to  the  Egyptians,  bound  the 
 body  up,  and  most  skilfully  formed  it  into  a 
 
 ■  D  2 
 
36 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 mummy.  A  case  was  then  procured,  on  which, 
 was  painted  numerous  hieroglyphics,  facsimiles 
 of  those  that  are  usually  found  on  such  anti- 
 quities. 
 
 Leaving  their  "  treasure  trove "  at  the  resi- 
 dence of  the  deceased,  they  bent  their  way 
 back  to  Cairo,  proceeded  to  the  hotel,  and  com- 
 municated to  their  unsuspicious  dupe  that  they 
 had  discovered,  in  a  village  on  the  banks  of  the 
 Nile,  in  Upper  Egypt,  a  mummy,  in  a  most 
 perfect  state  of  preservation,  and  which  they 
 had  had  transported  to  a  hut  in  the  village  of 
 Geezeh ;  at  the  same  time  offering  to  conduct 
 the  antiquarian  to  inspect  the  same,  prior  to 
 the  bargain  being  concluded.  The  antiqua- 
 rian, whose  name  was  Monsieur  C.  accompanied 
 the  two  commissioners,  quite  delighted  at  the 
 prospect  of  being  able  to  obtain  the  prize  he 
 had  sought  for  with  such  research. 
 
 On  the  party  arriving  at  the  hut, — for  the 
 morgue,  "  dead-house,"  could  scarcely  be  deemed 
 worthy  of  any  other  designation, — Monsieur  C. 
 examined  the  mummy  most  minutely  once 
 or  twice.  It  seemed  to  him  that  the  body 
 was  wrapped  in  linen  which,  although  naturally 
 
THE  ITALIAN  APOTHECARY.  37 
 
 very  much  discoloured  by  the  process  of  em- 
 balming, bore  evident  marks  of  modern  manu- 
 facture ;  and,  turning  round  to  his  companions, 
 he  remarked  that  the  cloth  seemed  to  have  been 
 but  recently  wrapped  about  the  different  parts 
 that  he  had  examined.  But  they  explained  to 
 him  that  it  was  always  customary  to  re-wrap 
 any  parts  off  which  the  linen  had  fallen  or  de- 
 cayed away  with  new  pieces  steeped  in  newly- 
 prepared  aromatics.  The  antiquarian  examined 
 the  fingers,  then  the  toes,  and  next  the  head ; 
 all  of  which  members  he  found  in  a  remark- 
 able fine  state  of  preservation. 
 
 He  then  arranged  that  the  commissioners 
 should  procure  a  case,  have  the  mummy  placed 
 in  it,  and  he  would  afterwards  return  with 
 them,  and  see  the  treasure  screwed  down  in  its 
 outer  shell.  Thus  taking,  as  he  imagined,  every 
 precaution  that  no  deception  could  be  practised 
 upon  him,  by  the  substitution  of  any  weighty 
 substance  being  placed  in  the  case  in  lieu  of 
 the  "  treasure-trove,"  he  left  the  wily  commis- 
 sioners to  arrange  the  matter;  and,  after  the 
 lapse  of  a  few  hours,  they  all  returned  to  the 
 hotel  at  Cairo,  where  they  sat  down  to  a  well- 
 
38 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 spread  repast,  quite  delighted  with  the  bargain 
 each  had  made. 
 
 Three  days  afterwards,  the  two  crafty  com- 
 missioners called  upon  the  antiquarian,  and 
 informed  him  that  the  case  was  quite  ready  to 
 be  screwed  down,  and  begged  him  to  accom- 
 pany them  to  Geezeh,  which  he  did.  Then  he 
 had  the  satisfaction  to  see  the  mummy  placed 
 in  the  case,  securely  locked,  directed,  corded, 
 and  placed  in  a  country  araba  (cart),  after 
 which  they  returned  to  the  hotel. 
 
 In  four  days  afterwards,  the  mummy  was 
 safely  deposited  in  a  spare  room  at  Zech's,  the 
 six  hundred  sovereigns  paid  down  in  hard  cash 
 to  the  two  rogues  of  commissioners,  whom  the 
 dupe  regaled  wTith  a  most  sumptuous  luncheon, 
 with  copious  libations  of  sparkling  iced  cham- 
 pagne. 
 
 Monsieur  C.  now  amused  himself  by  visit- 
 ing all  the  different  curiosities  in  Cairo,  and 
 as  the  time  drew  near  for  his  departure  for 
 Pistoja,  near  Florence,  he  one  morning  entered 
 the  room  in  which  the  case  was  deposited 
 with  the  intention  of  nailing  the  address  of 
 his  correspondent  at  Leghorn  upon  it.  His 
 
THE  .ANTIQUARY'S  FLIGHT. 
 
 39 
 
 olfactory  nerves  were  assailed  with  such  an 
 offensive  effluvia  on  his  entrance  therein,  that 
 he  became  quite  electrified ;  at  first  he  thought 
 that  the  disgusting  odour  proceeded  from  the 
 bodies  of  some  rats  who  might  have  been 
 crushed  to  death  in  one  of  the  drains.  He 
 approached  the  case,  when  the  smell  became 
 much  more  offensive ;  still,  not  thinking  for  a 
 moment  that  it  proceeded  from  the  mummy, 
 he  unlocked  it,  but  re -locked  it  in  the  twink- 
 ling of  an  eye,  for  the  powerful  and  offensive 
 effluvia  gas  emitted  therefrom  left  him  no 
 doubt  as  to  the  fact  that  a  recently  deceased 
 body  had  been  embalmed  in  well  saturated 
 aromatic  rags !  and  then  he  became  fully  alive 
 to  the  trick  that  the  two  rogues  of  commis- 
 sioners had  played  him. 
 
 It  was  bad  enough  to  have  been  \dctimised 
 of  so  large  a  sum,  but  he  had  no  desire  to  be- 
 come the  laughing-stock  of  the  Caireens,  or 
 to  have  the  expense  of  interring  the  body,  so 
 he  hastily  locked  the  chamber,  packed  his 
 "penates,"  paid  his  "  note/'  told  the  headwaiter, 
 (for  Mr.  Zech  was  absent  at  the  time,)  that 
 he  should  return  in  a  few  days  as  he  was  only 
 
40 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 going  to  Alexandria  for  a  week.  He  then  put 
 himself  into  the  train  and  reached  that  port 
 just  in  time  to  take  his  passage  by  the  Italian 
 steamer  bound  for  Ancona.  Previous  to  his 
 departure  he  forwarded  a  small  parcel  contain- 
 ing the  key  of  the  "morgue,"  to  Mr.  Zech, 
 who  had  to  incur  the  expense  of  the  Italian 
 apothecary's  interment. 
 
 Through  the  kind  attention  of  Mr.  Xenos,  I 
 was  shown  up  into  an  apartment.  Hastily 
 changing  my  travelling  costume,  I  hurried  off 
 in  a  carriage  to  present  my  letter  of  intro- 
 duction to  Mr.  B.  but  not  finding  him  at 
 home,  as  he  had  been  summoned  to  attend 
 H.  H.  the  Viceroy  at  Boulac,  I  returned  to  the 
 hotel.  I  had  scarcely  begun  to  unpack  my 
 penates  when  a  waiter  informed  me  that  Mr. 
 B.  had  sent  his  carriage  to  fetch  me.  There- 
 upon I  requested  him  to  bring  my  bill ;  and 
 guess  my  astonishment  when,  in  exchange  for 
 the  Bank  of  England  note  which  I  had  handed 
 to  him,  he  handed  me  not,  as  I  had  expected, 
 the  change  in  English  or  French  money,  but 
 the  following  miscellaneous  coins,  viz.,  five  and 
 ten  franc  pieces,  Spanish  pillar  dollars,  several 
 
THE  SMALL  CHANGE  IN  EGYPT.  41 
 
 Kussian  coins  of  unknown  names,  valued  at 
 three  francs  each,  francs,  shillings,  florins,  Sar- 
 dinian liras,  half  liras,  Austrian  quarter  florins, 
 together  with  a  complete  miscellany  of  smaller 
 coins,  both  copper  and  silver,  most  admirably 
 fitted  for  the  cases  of  a  private  museum  ;  to- 
 gether with  a  collection  of  Egyptian,  Turkish, 
 Indian,  and  Arab  coins !  Such  is  the  change 
 currently  given  for  European  gold  pieces 
 throughout  the  whole  length  and  breadth  of 
 Egypt,  save  and  except  in  the  Harems,  where 
 the  gold  effigy  of  her  Majesty  Queen  Victoria 
 and  the  Emperor  Napoleon  III.  are  the  circulat- 
 ing medium.  So,  taking  a  small  travelling  bag 
 in  my  hand,  I  proceeded  to  the  bankers,  very 
 loth  to  be  hurried  off  in  that  unceremonious 
 manner,  after  my  journey  from  Alexandria, 
 under  the  scorching  heat  of  an  Egyptian  sun, 
 and  the  desagremens  of  whirlwinds  of  sand. 
 
42 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 CHAPTER  III. 
 
 Entering  the  brougham  which  stood  at  the 
 door  of  the  hotel,  I  was  soon  driven  to  Mr.  B.'s 
 residence,  situated  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Esbe- 
 keeh  Square.  It  was  a  spacious,  modern,  stone- 
 built  three-storied  house,  having  a  good-sized 
 balcony  in  front,  which  commanded  a  view  of 
 the  square  and  its  insignificant  gardens.  The 
 lower  floor,  or  basement,  was  used  as  the  bank 
 and  the  upper  part  as  the  dwelling.  The  whole 
 was  furnished  in  the  European  style  in  an 
 unostentatious  yet  comfortable  manner.  The 
 banker's  establishment  was  upon  a  very  limited 
 scale,  and  consisted  of  a  German  housekeeper, 
 black  page,  Arab  cook,  coachman  and  grooms. 
 His  mistress  was  a  short,  thickset,  ugly  Arab 
 slave  girl,  about  sixteen  years  of  age,  named 
 Fatima,  whom  he  had  purchased  when  she  was 
 very  young. 
 
VIRTUALLY  A  PRISONER. 
 
 43 
 
 Mr.  B.  received  me  most  courteously,  apolo- 
 gized for  having  hurried  me  away  from  the  hotel, 
 but  informed  me  that  His  Highness  Ismael 
 Pacha,  the  Viceroy,  had  requested  that  I  should 
 become  his  guest  until  the  apartments  were 
 ready  for  my  reception  in  the  Harem. 
 
 I  remonstrated  at  this  arrangement,  as  I  did 
 not  think  it  quite  prudent  that  I  should  remain 
 in  the  house  of  a  bachelor  who  had  his  mistress 
 under  the  same  roof,  and  urged  the  expediency 
 of  my  being  allowed  to  return  to  Zech's. 
 
 This,  however,  Mr.  B.  overruled,  by  stating 
 as  that  he  was  a  man  of  business  and  seldom  at 
 home,  I  should  be  well  cared  for  by  his  German 
 house-keeper,  Clara,  who  would  attend  to  all 
 my  requirements,  besides  H.  H.  the  Viceroy  had 
 particularly  requested  him  to  desire  me  not  to 
 form  any  acquaintances  in  Cairo.  I  therefore 
 yielded  to  his  persuasions,  and  there  I  remained 
 almost  in  durance  vile  for  a  month,  during  which 
 period  I  received  every  attention  and  respect. 
 
 Scarcely,  however,  had  a  few  days  passed, 
 than  I  began  to  discover  that  my  freedom  of 
 action  was  curtailed,  and  that  I  was  as  much 
 a  prisoner  in  my  new  abode  as  any  subordinate 
 
44 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 officer  is  when  his  commanding  officer  has 
 placed  him  under  arrest.  I  must  confess  that 
 I  was  quite  taken  aback  at  being  so  uncere- 
 moniously deprived  of  my  liBerty.  During  the 
 whole  of  that  period  I  was  obliged  to  vegetate 
 on  cuisine  d  VArabe.  Fortunately,  however, 
 the  kind  Clara  brought  me  a  cup  of  coffee  and 
 a  small  roll  early  in  the  morning,  but  without 
 any  butter,  which  condiment  I  never  tasted 
 during  the  whole  period  I  remained  in  the  ser- 
 vice of  H.  H.  the  Viceroy,  none  having  ever 
 being  placed  upon  my  table. 
 
 My  breakfast  was  served  me  in  my  own 
 room,  at  twelve  p.m.  and  which,  together  with 
 my  dinner,  at  six  p.m.,  consisted  of  the  follow- 
 ing carte : — 
 
 Soup,  made  of  mutton,  with  strings  of  vermi- 
 celli floating  in  it. — Bice,  boiled  plain,  and 
 served  up  with  tomato  sauce. — Boiled  mutton 
 (for  beef,  lamb,  or  veal  was  never  served  up  to 
 me),  of  which  soup  had  been  made. — A  dish 
 composed  of  tomatoes,  with  the  insides  scooped 
 out,  and  filled  with  boiled  rice  and'  minced 
 mutton. — Boiled  chicory,  chopped  up  in  imita- 
 tion of  spinach  a  la  Francaise. 
 
CUISINE  A  i/aRABE. 
 
 45 
 
 The  whole  of  these  dishes  were  absolutely 
 swimming  in  fat. 
 
 Eoast  Mutton,  dried  up  to  a  chip. 
 
 No  pastry,  cheese,  or  malt  liquor. 
 
 The  dessert  consisted  of  oranges,  preserved 
 and  candied  fruits. 
 
 Sauterne  and  claret  wines. 
 
 Coffee  was  served  up  a  la  Turque,  in  small 
 transparent  jindjaus,  china  cups,  as  small  as 
 egg-cups,  placed  in  silver  zurfs. 
 
 Of  these  refreshments  I  invariably  partook 
 alone,  as  Mr.  B.  never  favoured  me  with  his 
 company,  being  generally  occupied  in  busi- 
 ness, or  else  from  home  in  attendance  on 
 H.H.  the  Viceroy,  who  is  almost  invariably 
 accompanied  by  one  of  his  associates  in  com- 
 merce, whether  steaming  up  the  Nile  or  loung- 
 ing at  any  of  his  palaces,  as  the  Harems  are  all 
 situated  at  some  distance  from  the  Viceregal 
 residences. 
 
 After  having  submitted  to  this  incarceration 
 for  several  weeks,  I  complained  to  Mr.  B. 
 of  the  diet ;  but  the  only  answer  I  received 
 was,  that  he  regretted  his  inability  to  effect 
 any  alteration.    Finding  that  my  health  was 
 
46 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 suffering  from  it,  and  the  want  of  proper  exer- 
 cise, I  requested  to  be  allowed  carriage  airing, 
 which  was  granted  me  immediately  the  other 
 English  lady — who  had  arrived  previous  to  my 
 coming  out  to  Cairo — had  taken  her  departure 
 for  Europe. 
 
 A  few  days  after  I  had  taken  up  my  resi- 
 dence at  the  banker's,  Mr.  B.  entered  my 
 room,  and  informed  me,  that  if  I  would  step 
 out  into  the  balcony  about  six  o'clock,  I  should 
 have  an  opportunity  of  catching  a  glimpse  of 
 the  Viceregal  family,  as  H.  H.  Ismael  Pacha 
 generally  took  a  drive  about  that  time. 
 
 Feeling  naturally  anxious  to  see  what  kind 
 of  individuals  the  Viceregal  party  were,  I  moved 
 the  easy  chair  into  the  balcony  at  the  hour 
 named.  Scarcely  had  I  been  seated  there  ten 
 minutes,  when  I  observed  a  handsome  European- 
 built  carriage,  drawn  by  four  nob]e-looking 
 English  horses,  with  postillions  on  their  backs, 
 advancing  towards  the  banker's.  The  blue  silk 
 blinds  of  the  carriage-windows  were  only  half 
 drawn  down,  which  enabled  me  to  obtain  a 
 good  view  of  the  Viceregal  party.  Its  occupants 
 consisted  of  H.  H.  the  Viceroy,  the  Princess 
 
THE  VICEREGAL  CORTEGE. 
 
 47 
 
 Epouse  (the  mother  of  the  Prince),  and  H.  H. 
 the  Grand  Pacha  Ibrahim. 
 
 As  the  cortege  drew  near  Mr.  B.'s, 
 His  Highness  Ismael  Pacha  looked  up  at  the 
 balcony,  smiled,  and  displayed  his  fine  set  of 
 teeth.  The  Princess  Epouse  did  likewise ;  while 
 my  protege  never  moved  his  eyes  off  the  packet 
 of  bonbons,  out  of  which  he  was  busily  engaged 
 in  selecting  those  that  pleased  his  palate  best. 
 
 As  the  glimpse  I  caught  of  the  party  was 
 but  momentary,  I  had  not  time  to  scrutinize 
 their  features. 
 
48 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 CHAPTEK  IV. 
 
 The  next  morning,  Mr.  B.  introduced  me  to 
 the  Messrs.  H.  who,  after  having  alluded  to  the 
 vague  contract  that  I  had  entered  into  with 
 His  Highness's  agent  in  London,  inquired  of 
 me  if  I  were  willing  to  enter  the  Harem ;  to 
 which  I  merely  replied,  "  Most  certainly,  as  my 
 object  in  coming  out  to  Egypt  was  to  take 
 charge  of  the  young  prince ;  and  I  was  quite 
 prepared  to  enter  on  the  duties  of  my  appoint- 
 ment/' 
 
 "  Well,  then,  madam,"  replied  Mr.  H.  H.  "  I 
 think  it  necessary  that  I  should  explain  to  you 
 the  reason  why  you  were  spirited  away,  as  it 
 seemed  to  you,  from  Zech  s.  It  was  owing  to 
 another  English  lady  being  resident  there  at 
 the  time.  I  cannot  tell  you  exactly  how  it 
 occurred,  but  Miss  T.  was  so  badly  advised  as 
 to  pay  a  visit  to  the  Harem  of  Said  Pacha, 
 
THE  VICEROY'S  DELUSION.  49 
 
 the  late  Viceroy;  which,  imprudence,  having 
 come  to  His  Highness's  notice,  he  forth- 
 with declined  to  allow  her  to  take  charge 
 of  the  Prince,  and  requested  our  mutual 
 friend,  Mr.  B.  to  have  the  kindness  to  give 
 up  a  part  of  his  residence  for  your  accommo- 
 dation ;  as  he  did  not  wish  that  you  should 
 form  any  acquaintances  at  the  hotel,  or 
 associate  with  a  lady  who  had  so  far  for- 
 gotten herself  as  to  'peep  and  pry'  into  other 
 Harems. 
 
 "  Now,  as  that  affair  is  finally  disposed  of,  no 
 further  restraint  will  be  imposed  upon  you,  and 
 you  are  at  liberty  to  take  whatever  carriage 
 exercise  you  may  think  proper.  My  chief  ob- 
 ject, however,  in  calling  upon  you  this  morning, 
 is  to  inform  you  what  duties  will  be  required 
 of  you.  As  you  are  necessarily  ignorant  of  the 
 manners  and  customs  of  Egypt,  I  must  mention 
 that  H.H.  the  Viceroy,  labours  under  the  delu- 
 sion that  he  will  be  poisoned. 
 
 "The  young  Prince  will  be  placed  entirely 
 under  your  charge.  You  must  never  lose  sight 
 of  him ;  for  it  will  undoubtedly  appear  strange 
 to  your  unorientalized  mind,  but,  nevertheless, 
 
 VOL.  I.  E 
 
50 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 it  is  a  fact,  that  apprehensions  are  also  enter- 
 tained that  poison  will  be  attempted  to  be 
 administered  to  the  boy,  who  is  about  five 
 years  old,  in  some  form  or  other.  So  that  he 
 must  never  be  left  alone,  nor  be  allowed  to  par- 
 take of  any  food  which  has  not  been  previously 
 tasted  by  the  Hekim  Bachi,  'Viceregal  Doctor.' 
 Besides,  H.  H.  the  Viceroy,  wishes  that  the  lady, 
 to  whom  he  confides  the  charge  of  the  Grand 
 Pacha  Ibrahim,  should  never  quit  the  pre- 
 cincts of  the  Viceregal  domains,  without  His 
 Highness's  special  permission.  That,  however, 
 you  must  understand,  is  but  a  mere  matter 
 of  form,  as  you  will  always  be  able  to  obtain 
 leave  of  absence  whenever  you  desire  to  visit 
 Cairo. 
 
 "H.H.  the  Viceroy,  with  that  forethought 
 which  characterizes  him,  has  requested  me  to 
 state,  that  as  he  considers  his  London  agent 
 has  acted  too  parsimoniously  in  the  matter 
 of  the  pecuniary  recompense  named  in  the 
 contract,  he  suggests  that  the  stipend  be 
 doubled,  that  a  fresh  agreement  should  be 
 drawn  up ;  that  the  period  should  be  extended 
 to  three  years,  and  that  the  sum  advanced 
 
AMENDMENT  OF  THE  CONTRACT.  51 
 
 should  be  allowed  you  in  part  payment  of  your 
 outfit." 
 
 I  replied,  "  That  I  was  quite  sensible  of  His 
 Highness's  kind  offer;  but  that  I  could  not 
 possibly  think  of  binding  myself  for  any  longer 
 period  than  two  years ;  and,  besides,  I  requested 
 that  a  clause  should  be  inserted  therein,  so 
 that,  in  case  of  ill  health,  I  might  be  able  to 
 resign  the  appointment." 
 
 "  Most  assuredly/'  replied  Mr.  H.  H.  "  there 
 cannot  be  the  slightest  objection  to  such  an 
 amendment ;  and  our  mutual  friend,  Mr.  B. 
 will  have  the  contract  drawn  up  forthwith ; 
 and  as  soon  as  the  apartments  in  the  Harem 
 are  ready  for  your  occupation,  he  will  kindly 
 see  you  installed  therein.  As  I  am  going  to 
 Constantinople,  some  members  of  my  family 
 there  being  rather  seriously  indisposed,  I  wish 
 you  good  morning,  trusting  that  I  shall  have 
 the  pleasure  of  seeing  you  on  my  return ; 
 or  at  Constantinople,  should  you  accompany 
 Her  Highness  the  Princess  Epouse  to  that  city 
 in  the  summer." 
 
 Saying  which,  he  together  with  Mr.  B.  took 
 their  departure,  much  to  my  satisfaction,  as  I 
 E  2 
 
52 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 had  become  quite  weary  of  the  presence  of 
 Mr.  H.  H.  in  whose  favour  I  felt  quite  con- 
 vinced that  I  had  not  ingratiated  myself,  as 
 subsequent  events  proved.    And  when 
 
 "  At  length  he  left  me  with  his  false  face, 
 His  elvish  heart  transpicuous  in  his  look," 
 
 I  felt  quite  relieved. 
 
 Day  after  day  passed  away,  and  still  I  could 
 learn  no  intelligence  when  it  was  probable  that 
 I  should  be  installed  in  my  office.  The  only 
 reply  that  I  could  get  to  my  inquiries  was, 
 that  the  apartments  were  not  ready.  The 
 monotony  of  my  daily  life,  the  surveillance 
 which  was  kept  over  all  my  actions,  the  want 
 of  a  little  social  intercourse  with  Europeans, 
 and  the  constant  use  of  Arab  diet,  began 
 to  tell  sadly  upon  my  constitution;  and  at 
 times  I  felt  half  inclined  to  resign  that  post, 
 the  duties  of  which  I  had  not  even  entered 
 upon. 
 
 After  a  great  deal  of  perseverance  I  obtained 
 a  slight  alteration  in  my  diet,  by  the  occasional 
 change  of  boiled  mutton  for  a  little  chicken 
 broth,  the  chicken  being  served  up  whole  after 
 
INTERVIEW  WITH  C.  H. 
 
 53 
 
 having  been  boiled  in  the  soup;  some  potatoes, 
 most  wretchedly  cooked,  and  a  dish  of  mutton 
 chops  burnt  up  to  a  cinder,  and  as  hard  as 
 leather,  without  a  spoonful  of  gravy  or  sauce  of 
 any  kind.  Fortunately  I  had  taken  the  pre- 
 caution to  bring  out  with  me  a  small  library 
 of  books,  and  in  the  hurry  of  my  departure 
 had  left  a  little  needlework  to  be  finished,  or 
 else  I  really  must  have  died  of  ennui. 
 
 For  upwards  of  twenty  days  I  was  doomed 
 to  pass  my  existence  in  that  senseless,  unpro- 
 fitable manner.  True  it  is,  that  in  the  cool  of 
 the  evening  I  took  carriage  exercise,  which 
 gave  me  an  opportunity  of  examining  every 
 nook  and  corner  of  Cairo  and  its  imme- 
 diate vicinity.  At  the  end  of  about  three 
 weeks  another  of  the  Messrs.  H.,  whom  I  will 
 designate  as  Mr.  C.  H.,  called  upon  Mr.  B. 
 had  an  interview  with  me,  and  seemed  quite 
 surprised  that  H.H.  the  Viceroy  had  not  sent 
 for  me  to  enter  the  Harem.  In  the  conversa- 
 tion that  he  had  with  Mr.  B.  he  went  so  far  as 
 to  express  his  opinion  that  H.H.  Ismael  Pacha 
 must  have  forgotten  my  existence ;  and  not- 
 withstanding that  Mr.  B.  informed  him  that 
 
54 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 His  Highness  was  quite  aware  of  my  being 
 his  guest,  and  that  my  apartments  were  not 
 yet  fitted  up,  he  flew  off  at  a  tangent,  went 
 post-haste  to  the  Viceroy,  and  on  his  return 
 told  me  that  I  must  go  then  and  there  into 
 the  Harem. 
 
 The  abruptness  and  authoritative  tone  of  his 
 manner  were  something  new  to  me.  I  had  not 
 been  accustomed  to  receive  such  treatment  at 
 the  hand  of  persons  of  even  exalted  rank  in 
 my  own  country,  about  whose  presence  I  had 
 been  brought  up,  and  my  sensitive  feelings 
 naturally  rebelled  at  such  behaviour.  Stifling 
 my  anger,  I  coolly  and  calmly  replied,  that,  as 
 it  was  my  Sabbath,  I  should  most  certainly  not 
 enter  the  Harem  on  that  day,  but  that  I  would 
 be  ready  to  obey  H.  H.  s  behest  on  the  morrow. 
 
 The  good  kind  old  German  housekeeper  had, 
 during  my  residence  at  her  master's,  given  me 
 an  insight  into  the  characters  of  the  Messrs. 
 H.'  and  well  did  I  know  the  parties  with 
 whom  I  had  to  deal,  and  consequently  I  made 
 up  my  mind  how  to  act  towards  them  in 
 future.  I  was  sorry  to  quit  the  hospitable 
 roof  of  the  banker,  where  I  should  have  been 
 
QUITS  THE  BANKER'S  RESIDENCE.  55 
 
 exceedingly  comfortable  had  Mr.  B.  only  taken 
 the  precaution  to  have  had  my  meals  served 
 from  Zech's  Hotel,  as  then  I  could  have  lived 
 on  European  and  not  Arab  diet,  to  the  constant 
 use  of  which  latter  my  health  eventually  suc- 
 cumbed. 
 
56 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 CHAPTEE  V. 
 
 Nothing  more  forcibly  demonstrates  the 
 truism,  that  "  the  schoolmaster  is  abroad/'  than 
 that  no  golden  key — no  sacrifice  on  the  altar  of 
 that  all-potent  sovereign  prince  of  Egypt,  "  back- 
 sheesh " — was  required  by  me  to  enter 
 
 "  The  doors  that  knew  no  shrill  alarming  bell, 
 No  startling  knocker  plied  by  villain's  hand  ! " 
 
 for  the  march  of  intellect  was  the  herald  of  my 
 approach  into  the  "  Bower  of  Bliss "  of  the 
 Crcesus-like  vassal  of  the  Padischah  Abdul  Aziz, 
 the  Light  of  the  World,  the  Sovereign  of  Sove- 
 reigns, the  Sultan  of  Turkey,  the  Billionaire 
 Merchant  Prince  of  the  East. 
 
 I  rose  early  on  the  morrow,  and  yet  my 
 spirits  felt  depressed.  Mr.  B.  visited  me,  and 
 expressed  his  deep  regret  that  he  was  pre- 
 
THE  EUNUCHS. 
 
 57 
 
 vented  from  accompanying  me  to  the  Palace, 
 as  he  was  obliged  to  proceed  to  Alexandria  ;  at 
 the  same  time  adding :  "  I  could  not  possibly 
 have  escorted  you  beyond  the  precincts  of  the 
 chief  eunuch  s  apartments.  As  you  must  neces- 
 sarily be  quite  ignorant  of  the  importance  of 
 those  officials  in  the  Harem,  especially  the 
 Grand  Eunuch,  who,  by  virtue  of  his  office, 
 amasses  most  fabulous  sums  of  money,  I  will 
 give  you  a  brief  account  of  them. 
 
 "  Many  of  them  become  most  important  per- 
 sonages in  the  country,  hold  high  offices  in  the 
 State,  and  even  those  who  do  not  attain  to  such 
 rank  possess  great  influence.  They  are  gene- 
 rally mounted  upon  richly-caparisoned  Arab 
 horses,  the  saddles  and  bridles  of  which  are  em- 
 broidered with  gold.  The  horse  wears  round 
 his  neck,  like  an  amulet,  two  silver  wild-boar 
 handspikes,  with  the  points  reversed,  which 
 form  a  crescent,  and  which  are  thought  to 
 possess  the  power  of  guarding  the  rider  from 
 the  *  Evil  Eye  ! '  They  are  remarkably  proud 
 and  haughty  in  their  bearing,  even  when 
 only  of  inferior  rank ;  tenacious  of  the  power 
 they  possess  over  the  women  of  the  Harems  to 
 
58 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 which  they  are  attached,  and  which  authority 
 they  hesitate  not  to  abuse  or  modify,  according 
 to  their  individual  appreciation  of  each  lady's 
 merits  or  demerits,  which  they  calculate  accord- 
 ing to  the  quantity  of  backsheesh  that  each  fair 
 Peri  hands  them.  They  are  exceedingly  avari- 
 cious, and  consider  wealth  must  be  acquired  by 
 any  means,  no  matter  however  questionable ; 
 so  that  the  majority  of  them  are  very  rich. 
 Their  infirmity  of  body  makes  them  despise  all 
 mortals,  but  especially  women ;  so  that  it  is  a 
 source  of  gratification  for  them  to  tyrannize 
 over  them  as  despotically  as  they  can.  Still, 
 their  love  of  the  '  mammon  of  unrighteousness/ 
 their  idolatry  of  gold,  makes  them  subservient 
 to  that  all-potent  sovereign,  Prince  Baksheesh. 
 
 "  Their  contempt  for  the  whole  race  of  mor- 
 tals is  proverbial,  but  especially  for  all  £  dogs  of 
 Christians/  You  must  have  remarked,  as  they 
 ride  along  upon  their  prancing  Arab  steeds,  with 
 what  disdain  they  look  down  upon  all  passers- 
 by.  No  Asiatic  prince  could  possibly  treat  his 
 subjects  with  greater  imperiousness.  I  remem- 
 ber your  asking  me,  one  day,  the  name  of  that 
 stately  eunuch  whom  you  noticed  ride  past 
 
ANTECEDENTS  OF  DAFAY. 
 
 59 
 
 my  house,  last  week,  on  a  beautiful  milk-white 
 Arab.  I  cannot  do  better  than  narrate  his 
 history  to  you.  He  is  called  Dafay,  is  free, 
 and  a  millionaire;  but  how  he  acquired  his 
 wealth  may  appear  to  you  a  mystery.  I  will 
 enlighten  you  on  that  point. 
 
 "  There  are  exceptions  to  all  rules,  so  that 
 Dafay  never  was  a  woman-hater;  on  the  con- 
 trary, like  many  of  his  race,  he  respects,  nay, 
 loves  them.  I  know  for  certain  that  he  has  at 
 the  present  time  several  female  slaves  in  his 
 service,  one  of  whom  ranks  as  his  ikbal 
 (c  favourite '),  and  she  is  dressed  and  waited 
 upon  like  a  princess.  She  is  the  mistress  of  the 
 Harem  of  her  fond  and  jealous  husband ;  the 
 apartments  in  which  are  furnished  in  grand 
 style ;  nay,  quite  equal  to  any  of  the  private 
 apartments  of  H.  H.  the  Viceroy. 
 
 "  Well,  I  now  come  to  his  antecedents.  He 
 belonged  to  a  very  rich  Bey  (Colonel),  who, 
 being  partial  to  him,  placed  him  at  the  head  of 
 his  Harem.  The  Bey  had  two  legitimate  wives, 
 who  lived  together  in  the  most  cordial  manner, 
 and  contributed  reciprocally  to  their  master's 
 happiness.   Dafay  fell  violently  in  love  with  one 
 
60 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 of  them,  and,  what  is  still  more  extraordinary, 
 his  passion  was  returned.  It  was,  therefore, 
 very  natural  that  he  should  show  that  wife 
 most  marked  attention,  and  neglect  or  tyrannize 
 over  the  other.  It  is  not  necessary  that  I  relate 
 their  quarrels  and  peccadilloes  ;  suffice  it  to 
 add,  that  the  eunuch  and  his  inamorata  laid  a 
 snare  for  the  other  wife,  and  then,  as  an  excuse 
 that  she  had  committed  adultery  with  one  of 
 the  Bey's  servants  who  had  left,  Dafay  stabbed 
 her ;  but  I  have  heard  it  stated  that  he  actually 
 allowed  his  chere  amie  to  have  the  satisfaction 
 of  destroying  her  rival  herself.  What  the  Bey 
 said  on  his  return  home,  I  never  could  learn. 
 Certain,  however,  is  it  that  the  whole  affair  was 
 hushed  up,  and  that  the  eunuch,  instead  of 
 losing  his  master's  good  graces,  as  might  have 
 been  expected,  rose  higher  in  his  favour. 
 
 "  Not  long  afterwards  the  Bey  died,  having 
 made  a  will,  in  which  he  bequeathed  all  his 
 property  to  his  faithful  Dafay.  At  the  time  of 
 his  decease,  many  ugly  reports  were  circulated, 
 although  the  will  was  perfectly  legal,  and  the  , 
 Bey's  death  very  sudden.  Many  of  the  gossips 
 of  Cairo  state,  that  the  eunuch  became  jealous 
 
DUTIES  OF  THE  GRAND  EUNUCH.  61 
 
 of  his  master ;  that  he  coveted  his  wife,  whom 
 he  loved  most  passionately ;  and  that,  as  he  had 
 already  committed  one  crime  for  her,  he  threat- 
 ened to  denounce  her,  unless  she  put  her  hus- 
 band out  of  the  way.  An  Asiatic's  love  stops 
 at  nothing,  and  he  spares  no  cost  to  attain  his 
 ends.  The  mysterious  doings  in  the  Harems 
 are  generally  enveloped  in  impenetrable  dark- 
 ness. It  is  utterly  impossible  for  the  Minister 
 of  Justice  at  any  time  to  move  in  such  delicate 
 affairs. 
 
 "  Shortly  afterwards  Dafay  married  the 
 widow,  and  disbursed  the  'talaris'  (money)  of 
 the  deceased  with  no  niggardly  hand.  It  is 
 rumoured  that  he  is  fearfully  jealous ;  but 
 not  a  syllable  is  ever  uttered  for  or  against 
 his  wife.  They  have  a  numerous  family,  and 
 that  fact  speaks  volumes  with  regard  to  all 
 eunuchs." 
 
 I  found  that  the  duties  of  the  Viceregal 
 Grand  Eunuch  were  almost  legion.  Independent 
 of  his  daily  attendance  upon  their  Highnesses, 
 he  read  prayers  to  his  staff  of  attendants  and 
 the  whole  corps  of  eunuchs ;  the  younger  of 
 
62 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 whom  he  instructed,  not  only  in  their  duties, 
 but  also  in  reading  and  transcribing  the  Koran. 
 Many  a  time  and  oft  I  have  heard  him,  when 
 passing  his  apartment,  as  Dr.  Herbelot  has  so 
 admirably  expressed  it,  "  reading  the  blessed 
 Koran,  with  the  seven  different  readings,  and 
 telling  how  seven  different  messengers  were 
 sent,  at  seven  different  times,  to  bring  seven 
 handfuls  of  seven  different  sorts  of  soil,  from 
 seven  different  stages  of  the  earth;  she  (the 
 earth)  refusing  all  the  seven  messengers,  for 
 she  said,  *  I  consent  not  that  Allah  make  so  bad 
 a  thing  as  man/  " 
 
 I  found  all  these  spectres  of  men  most  par- 
 ticularly anxious  to  obtain  every  information 
 they  could  as  to  the  manners  and  customs  of 
 us  unbelievers ;  for  whom,  however,  in  their 
 hearts  they  have  the  most  sovereign  contempt ; 
 and  yet  from  all  of  them,  but  especially  the 
 RislarAgaci,  I  received  the  most  marked  atten- 
 tion, courtesy,  and  respect.  Not  the  slightest 
 approach  to  any  display  of  familiarity,  or  any 
 overbearing  behaviour,  was  manifested  towards 
 me. 
 
CHARACTER  OF  THE  EUNUCHS.  63 
 
 On  the  contrary,  they  were  ever  ready  to  dis- 
 charge my  commands  with  alacrity  and  fidelity. 
 And  yet  I  never  propitiated  them  with  back- 
 sheesh, though  I  have  seen  my  Princess  put  purses 
 of  sovereigns  in  the  hands  of  the  Grand  Eunuch, 
 as  their  Highnesses  had  expressly  forbidden  me 
 to  place  any  offering  on  the  shrine  of  that  all- 
 potent  sovereign  ruler  of  Egypt ;  so  that,  in- 
 stead of  finding  those  phantoms  of  men  the 
 crabbed,  disagreeable  apparitions  I  had  been  led 
 to  believe  them,  I  had  the  pleasure  of  expe- 
 riencing from  them  every  politeness  and  civility. 
 
 So  far  as  ^ie^  in  their  power  and  they  could 
 understand  me,  they  supplied  all  my  exigen- 
 cies, notwithstanding  that  I  was  a  Hawajee— a 
 daughter  of  that  accursed  race,  one  of  the 
 banished  Peris  from  their  celestial  Paradise,  the 
 Prophet's  seventh  heaven ;  and  yet  that  erudite 
 German  Orientalist,  Kuckert,  tells  us  that  the 
 true  Moslem  believes  that 
 
 "  In  the  nine  heavens  are  eight  paradises  ; 
 Where  is  the  ninth  one  ?    In  the  human  breast. 
 Only  the  blessed  dwell  in  the  paradises, 
 But  blessedness  dwells  in  the  human  breast. 
 Created  creatures  are  in  the  paradises, 
 The  uncreated  Maker  in  the  breast. 
 
64 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Rather,  0  man  !  want  those  eight  paradises, 
 Than  be  without  the  ninth  one  in  thy  breast. 
 Given  to  thee  are  those  eight  paradises, 
 When  thou  the  ninth  one  hast  within  thy  breast." 
 
 All  the  inmates  of  the  Harems  believe  that 
 when  young  children  die,  they  are  turned  into 
 the  flowers  with  which  Paradise  is  decorated, 
 and  that  birds  and  all  animals  are  the  spirits 
 of  their  lost  friends,  except  dogs,  which  are 
 spirits  of  the  departed  Israelites  and  unbe- 
 lievers ;  hence  the  reason  that  they  never  allow 
 them  to  caress  them,  or  to  become  domiciled 
 with  them. 
 
 Having  returned  the  banker  my  most  grateful 
 thanks  for  his  kindness  and  attention,  I  entered 
 his  elegant  brougham,  and,  accompanied  by  his 
 page,  who  seated  himself  on  the  box  with  the 
 coachman,  we  proceeded  along  an  excellent 
 road  to  the  banks  of  the  Nile,  opposite  Ghezire. 
 There  I  alighted,  and  was  handed  into  one  of 
 the  Viceregal  barges  by  the  coachman,  at  the 
 stern  of  which  was  a  small  cabin,  into  which 
 I  descended  by  two  steps ;  around  it  was  a 
 divan,  covered  with  red  and  white  damask.  It 
 was  manned  by  twelve  Arab  boatmen,  dressed 
 
THE  HAREM  AT  GHEZIRE.  65 
 
 like  the  ordinary  Arabs,  but  wearing  tur- 
 bans. The  Viceregal  standard,  the  everlasting 
 crescent,  floated  at  the  stem  and  stern.  On 
 they  rowed  most  vigorously,  and  in  less  than 
 ten  minutes  I  was  landed  at  the  stairs  of  the 
 Harem 
 
 The  building  is  a  very  plain  structure,  the 
 exterior  of  which  is  painted  like  the  trunks  of 
 the  trees  at  the  Dutch  model  village  of  Broeck 
 In  appearance  it  resembles  the  letter  E,  and  is  a 
 large  pile  composed  of  five  blocks  of  buildings. 
 Proceeding  to  the  one  which  faced  the  Kile, 
 I  entered  TJie  Harem  ("  sacred passed 
 through  a  small  door — the  grating  sounds  of 
 whose  huge  rusty  hinges  still  seem  to  creak 
 in  my  ears  like  the  grinding  of  the  barrel- 
 organ  of  an  itinerant  Italian  or  Savoyard 
 — which  led  into  a  courtyard,  at  that  time 
 lined,  not  with  a  corps  of  the  Egyptian 
 infantry,  with  their  shrill  brass  band  playing 
 opera  airs,  but  with  a  group  of  hard-working 
 Fellahs  and  Arabs,  toiling  away  like  labourers 
 in  the  London  docks,  and  rolling  into  that 
 immense  space  hundreds  of  bales  of  the 
 softest  Genoa  velvets,  the  costliest  Lyons  silkb, 
 
 vol.  L  F 
 
66 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 the  richest  French  satins,  most  elegantly  de- 
 signed muslins,  fast,  gaudy-coloured  Manches- 
 ter prints,  stout  Irish  poplins,  the  finest  Irish 
 linens,  Brussels,  Mechlin,  Valenciennes,  Honi- 
 ton,  and  imitation  laces,  Nottingham  hose, 
 French  silk  stockings,  French  and  Coventry 
 ribbons,  cases  of  the  purest  Schiedam,  pipes 
 of  spirits  of  wine,  huge  cases  of  fashionable 
 Parisian  boots,  shoes,  and  slippers,  immense 
 chests  of  bonbons,  in  magnificent  fancy-worked 
 cases,  boxes,  and  baskets,  bales  of  tombeki,  and 
 the  bright  golden-leaved  tobacco  of  Is-tam-bol 
 (Constantinople) ;  Cashmere,  India,  French,  and 
 Paisley  shawls,  of  the  most  exquisite  designs ; 
 baskets  of  pipe-bowls,  cases  of  amber  mouth- 
 pieces, cigarette  papers,  and  a  whole  host  of 
 miscellaneous  packages,  too  various  to  enume- 
 rate, of  other  commodities,  destined  for  the  use 
 of  the  inmates  of  that  vast  conservatory  of 
 beauty — all  supplied  by  His  Highnesss  part- 
 ners.   For,  be  it  known  to  you,  gentle  reader,' 
 that  the  Viceroy  of  Egypt  may  most  appropri- 
 ately be  styled,  par  excellence,  the  Sinbad  of 
 the  age,  the  merchant  prince  of  the  terrestrial 
 globe  ;  but  full  well 
 
UNIFORM  OF  THE  EUXUCHS.  67 
 
 "  He  knows  he  cannot  his  treasure  with  him  take 
 When  forced  of  life's  bright  feast  an  end  to  make  ; 
 His  wealth  then  thus  he  gives  away, 
 To  his  lovely  consorts  day  by  day." 
 
 Here  I  was  received  by  two  young  eunuchs, 
 one  of  whom  was  attired  in  a  light  drab 
 uniform,  embroidered  with  silk  of  the  same 
 colour.  The  other  wore  a  similar  costume, 
 but  of  red.  Both  "sported"  fezes.  They 
 salaamed  me  most  respectfully  in  the  Oriental 
 manner,  by  putting  their  fingers  to  their  lips, 
 then  to  the  heart,  and  finished  by  touching 
 their  foreheads. 
 
 I  was  then  ushered  through  another  door, 
 the  portals  of  which  were  also  guarded  by  a 
 group  of  eunuchs,  similarly  attired,  but  whose 
 uniforms  were  most  costly  embroidered.  Their 
 features  were  hideous  and  ferocious ;  their 
 figures  corpulent,  and  carriage  haughty. 
 
 They  also  salaamed  me  in  the  most  approved 
 Oriental  style.  Thence  passing  along  a  marble 
 passage  I  entered  a  large  stone  hall,  which  was 
 supported  by  huge  granite  pillars,  which  led 
 me  to  the  grand  staircase,  where  I  was  received 
 by  the  Chief  Eunuch,  who  is  called  Kislar 
 F  2 
 
68 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Agaci,  "the  captain  of  the  girls/'  and  some- 
 times Dar-us-seadet  Agaci,  "the  guardian  of 
 the  Mansion  of  Bliss/' 
 
 This  giant  spectre  of  a  man  (for  he  was  up- 
 wards of  six  feet  high),  who  quite  belied  his 
 caste,  for  he  was  a  pleasing,  affable,  yet  noble- 
 looking  personage,  having  a  most  diminutive 
 head,  almost  as  tiny  as  that  of  the  great 
 master  of  English  composition,  De  Quincey, 
 the  celebrated  writer  of  "  The  Confessions  of 
 an  Opium  Eater  "  (and  who,  like  that  marvellous 
 genius,  I  soon  found  out,  had  a  mania  for  eat- 
 ing and  smoking  narcotics),  advanced  towards 
 me,  made  his  salaam,  and  ushered  me,  the  hated 
 despised  Giaour  into  the  noble  marble  hall  of 
 the  Harem,  which  was  then  for  the  first  time 
 polluted  by  the  footsteps  of  the  unbeliever. 
 The  scene  around  me  was  so  singular  and 
 strange,  that  I  paused  to  contemplate  it.  The 
 hall  was  of  vast  dimensions,  supported  by  beau- 
 tiful porphyry  pillars,  and  the  marble  floor 
 was  covered  with  fine  matting.  I  was  now 
 handed  over  to  the  Lady  Superintendent  of 
 the  slaves — a  very  wealthy  woman,  about 
 twenty-four  years  of  age,  with  fine  dark  blue 
 
THE  LADY  SUPERINTENDENT. 
 
 69 
 
 eyes,  aquiline  nose,  large  mouth,  and  of  middle 
 stature. 
 
 She  was  attired  in  a  coloured  muslin  dress 
 and  trousers,  over  which  she  wore  a  quilted 
 lavender-coloured  satin  paletot.  Her  head  was 
 covered  with  a  small  blue  gauze  handkerchief, 
 tied  round  it,  and  in  the  centre  of  the  forehead, 
 tucked  up  under  it,  a  lovely  natural  dark  red 
 rose.  She  wore  a  beautiful  large  spray  of 
 diamonds,  arranged  in  the  form  of  the  flower, 
 "forget  me  not,"  which  hung  down  like  three 
 tendrils  below  her  ear  on  the  left  side.  Large 
 diamond  drops  were  suspended  from  her  ears, 
 and  her  fingers  were  covered  with  numerous 
 rings,  the  most  brilliant  of  which  were  a  large 
 rose  pink  diamond,  and  a  beautiful  sapphire. 
 Her  feet  were  encased  in  white  cotton  stock- 
 ings and  black  patent  leather  Parisian  shoes. 
 Her  name  was  Anina ;  she  had  formerly  been 
 an  Ikbal  "  favourite."  Beside  her  were  grouped 
 a  host  of  slaves,  all  of  whom  appeared  to  be 
 Arabs,  and  whose  condition  approximates  to 
 that  of  domestic  servants  in  Europe,  with  this 
 difference,  that  they  cannot  quit  the  precincts 
 of  the  Harem  without  permission,  but  which  is 
 
70 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 often  given  to  them  to  go  shopping,  which  they 
 do  unaccompanied  by  any  of  the  eunuchs. 
 
 They  are  often  sent  to  schools :  some  of 
 them  can  read  Arabic  and  Turkish — none,  how- 
 ever, can  write.  As  a  general  rule,  they  are 
 condemned  to  celibacy,  but  it  frequently 
 happens  that  they  are  freed,  given  away  in 
 marriage,  and,  most  horrible  to  relate,  instances 
 have  been  known  of  their  having  been  united 
 to  their  own  children.  They  amass  great 
 wealth,  by  dint  of  hoarding  up  the  backsheesh 
 which  has  been  distributed  to  them  on  grand 
 occasions.  The  black  slaves,  who  are  chiefly 
 natives  of  Nubia  and  Ethiopia,  are  generally 
 employed  in  the  mean  and  laborious  duties  of 
 the  household.  They  never  obtain  their  liberty, 
 but  pass  their  old  age  in  a  state  of  idleness. 
 The  nurses  to  the  Viceroyal  family  are  an 
 exception,  since  they  are  invariably  emanci- 
 pated, and  many  of'  them  often  marry  some  of 
 the  slaves  who  are  engaged  in  the  out-door 
 work. 
 
 The  Lady  Superintendent  now  took  me  by 
 the  hand,  led  me  up  two  flights  of  stairs,  co- 
 vered with  thick  rich  Brussels  carpet  of  a 
 
DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  APARTMENTS.  71 
 
 most  costly  description,  and  as  soft  and  bril- 
 liant in  colours  as  the  dewy  moss  of  Virginia 
 Water.  The  walls  were  plain.  Then  we 
 passed  through  a  suite  of  several  rooms,  ele- 
 gantly carpeted,  in  all  of  which  stood  long 
 divans,  some  of  which  were  covered  with  white 
 and  others  with  yellow  and  crimson  satin.  Over 
 the  doorways  hung  wide  satin  damask  curtains, 
 looped  up  with  heavy  silk  cords  and  tassels  to 
 correspond,  with  richly  gilded  cornices  over 
 each,  and  the  windows  which  overlooked  the 
 Nile  had  Venetian  shutters  attached  to  them 
 outside.  Against  the  walls  were  fixed  numerous 
 silver  chandeliers,  each  containing  six  wax 
 candles,  with  frosted-coloured  glass  shades, 
 made  in  the  form  of  tulips  over  them.  On 
 each  side  of  the  room  large  mirrors  were 
 fixed  in  the  wall,  each  of  which  rested  on  a 
 marble-topped  console  table,  supported  by  gilded 
 legs.  The  only  other  articles  of  furniture  that 
 were  scattered  about  the  apartment  were  a 
 dozen  common  English  cane-bottom  Icursi, 
 "  chairs." 
 
 Across  one  apartment  a  line  was  suspended, 
 on  which  hung  the  Princess's  jackets,  ward- 
 
72 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 robes  being  totally  unknown  within  the  precincts 
 of  this  "  Enchanted  Castle."  Against  the  walls 
 of  another  were  piled  up  the  beds,  which  heap 
 was  covered  over  with  a  rich  silk  coverlet.  On 
 the  divan  was  placed  a  silver  tray  (as  the  use 
 of  both  toilet-tables  and  wash-hand-stands  was 
 totally  unknown,  containing  the  Princess's 
 toilet  requisites.  These  merely  consisted  of  a 
 plain  black  india-rubber  dressing-comb,  a  white 
 ivory-handled  hair-brush,  a  very  large-sized 
 small-tooth-comb,  two  tooth-brushes,  a  glass 
 box,  containing  tooth  dentriflce  from  Paris,  a 
 small  round  silver  bowl,  into  which  poured 
 the  perfumed  (rose)  water  with  which  Her 
 Highness,  the  mother  of  the  Grand  Pacha, 
 dressed  her  hair,  the  substitute  for  oil  or  poma- 
 tum (neither  of  which  is  ever  used  by  any  of 
 the  Viceregal  family),  and  a  large  bottle  of 
 essences,  all  of  which  were  covered  over  with  a 
 transparent  crimson  silk  gauze  cloth,  bespangled 
 with  gold  crescents,  and  bordered  with  gold 
 fringe  an  inch  deep. 
 
 In  another  apartment  stood  a  large  mahogany 
 cupboard,  containing  the  fumigating  powders 
 which  are  burnt  in  the  rooms,  dried  fruits, 
 
THE  PRINCESS  EPOUSE. 
 
 73 
 
 soaps,  essences,  boots,  shoes,  quantities  of  cast- 
 off  wearing  apparel,  Her  Highness  s  cash-box, 
 a  small  black  ebony  casket  inlaid  with  gold, 
 packets  of  cigarettes,  cigarette-papers,  tobacco, 
 pipe-bowLs,  silver  braziers  and  dishes,  zurfs,  both 
 in  japan,  china,  and  silver.  Jewellery  cases, 
 candles,  and  a  complete  miscellany  of  sundry 
 articles ;  in  fact,  it  was  a  "  curiosity  shop." 
 -  At  the  extremity  of  those  rooms  I  was 
 led  into  a  smaller  apartment,  where,  on  the 
 divan  (so  called  from  the  Persian  word  dive, 
 signifying  "  fairy,  gem ")  which  was  covered 
 with  dirty,  faded  yellow  satin,  sat  H.  H.  the 
 Princess  Epouse.  She  is  a  wee  dwarf  of  a 
 handsome  blonde,  with  fine  blue  eyes,  short  nose, 
 rather  large  mouth  with  a  fine  set  of  teeth,  ex- 
 pressive countenance,  but  rather  sharp  and  dis- 
 agreeable voice ;  her  hair  was  cut  in  the  Savoyard 
 fashion,  with  two  long  plaits  behind,  which 
 were  turned  round,  over  the  small  brown  gauze 
 handkerchief  she  wore  round  her  head,  in  which 
 were  placed,  like  a  band,  seven  large  diamond 
 flies. 
 
 She  was  attired  in  a  dirty,  crumpled,  light- 
 coloured  muslin  dress  and  trousers,  sat  d  la 
 
74 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Turque,  doubled  up  like  a  clasped  knife,  with- 
 out shoes  or  stockings,  smoking  a  cigarette. 
 Her  waist  was  encircled  with  a  white  gauze 
 handkerchief,  having  the  four  corners  em- 
 broidered with  gold  thread.  It  was  fastened 
 round,  so  as  to  leave  two  ends  hanging  down 
 like  the  lappet  of  a  riding-habit.  Her  feet  were 
 encased  in  babouches,  "  slippers  without  heels." 
 
 By  her  side  sat  H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha  Ibra- 
 him, her  son,  so  styled  after  the  manner  adopted 
 by  the  renowned  Mahomet  Ali  with  the  Princess 
 Nuzley,  "Nuzley  Hanem."  He  was  dressed 
 in  the  uniform  of  an  officer  of  the  Egyptian 
 infantry.  On  his  head  he  wore  the  fez  ;  across 
 his  shoulder  hung  a  silver-gilt  chain,  from 
 which  was  suspended  a  small  silver  square 
 box,  beautifully  chased  with  cabalistic  figures 
 of  men,  beasts,  and  trees,  enclosed  inside  which 
 was  another  smaller  box  made  of  cypress-wood 
 which  contained  verses  of  the  Koran.  He  was 
 about  five  years  old,  of  dark  complexion,  short 
 Arab  nose,  and  rather  tall  for  his  age,  and 
 looked  the  very  picture  of  a  happy,  round- 
 faced  cheruk  On  perceiving  me  enter  the 
 room — 
 
THE  LADIES  OF  THE  HAEEM. 
 
 75 
 
 "  He  smiled  as  if  his  soul  was  soaring  ^ 
 To  heaven,  and  heaven's  God  adoring  ! 
 And  who  can  tell  what  visions  high 
 May  bless  that  young  prince's  blue  eye  !  " 
 
 but  when  I  approached  towards  the  divan,  he 
 gave  full  proof  that  his  lungs  were  in  a  healthy- 
 state,  as  he  set  up  a  most  hideous  shriek,  buried 
 his  black  head  in  his  mothers  lap,  who  laughed 
 most  heartily  at  the  strange  reception  His  High- 
 ness had  thought  proper  to  bestow  upon  his 
 future  governess. 
 
 In  front  of  the  Divan,  behind,  and  on 
 each  side  of  me,  stood  a  bevy  of  the  ladies 
 of  the  Harem,  assuredly  not  the  types  of  Tom 
 Moore's  "Peris  of  the  East,"  as  described  in 
 such  glowing  colours  in  his  far-famed  "  Lalla 
 Rookh,"  for  I  failed  to  discover  the  slightest 
 trace  of  loveliness  in  any  one  of  them.  On 
 the  contrary,  most  of  their  countenances  were 
 pale  as  ashes,  exceedingly  disagreeable  ;  fat  and 
 globular  in  figure  ;  in  short,  so  rotund,  that  they 
 gave  me  the  idea  of  large  full  moons ;  nearly 
 all  were  passee.  Their  photographs  were  as 
 hideous  and  hag-like  as  the  witches  in  the 
 opening  scene  in  Macbeth,  which  is  not  to  be 
 wondered  at,  as  some  of  them  had  been  the 
 
76 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 favourites  of  Ibrahim  Pacha,  But  que  voulez- 
 vous  ?  It  is  their  "Kismet"  to  remain  for  ever 
 within  the  four  walls  of  the  Harem.  They 
 think  that — 
 
 "  Fate  is  a  hand.    It  lays  two  fingers  on  the  eyes, 
 Two  on  the  ears,  one  on  the  mouth,  and  silent  cries 
 '  Be  ever  still ! '    Then  down  in  endless  sleep  woman  lies." 
 
 It  has  descended  to  them  from  primeval  days 
 — from  the  time  of  the  Patriarch  Abraham. 
 
 Some  wore  white  linen  dresses  and  trousers. 
 Their  hair  and  their  finger-nails  were  died  red 
 with  henna;  many  of  them  looked  like  old 
 hags,  in  the  most  extended  acceptation  of  the 
 expression.  Some  wore  the  tarboosh,  round 
 which  they  bound  coloured  gauze  handker- 
 chiefs. They  had  handsome  gold  watches 
 tucked  into  their  waist-bands,  which  were  simi- 
 lar to  that  of  Her  Highness's,  which  hung 
 suspended  from  their  necks  by  thick  massive 
 gold  chains.  Their  fingers  were  covered  with 
 a  profusion  of  diamond,  emerald,  and  ruby 
 rings ;  in  their  ears  were  earrings  of  various 
 precious  stones,  all  set  in  the  old  antique  style 
 in  silver ;  while  others  only  wore  plain  gauze 
 
INTRODUCTION  TO  THE  PRINCESS.  77 
 
 handkerchiefs  round  their  heads.  They  had 
 been  favourites  in  their  youth.  Behind  stood 
 half  a  dozen  white  slaves,  chiefly  Circassians, 
 attired  in  coloured  muslins,  their  dress  and 
 trousers  being  of  the  same  pattern.  Their 
 head  gear  was  similar  to  that  of  the  ladies  of 
 the  Harem,  and  the  ornaments  which  adorned 
 their  persons  were  equally  as  costly. 
 
 The  Mistress  Superintendent  introduced  me 
 to  H.  H.  the  Princess  Epouse,  who  kept  me 
 standing  a  considerable  time,  while  she  fixed 
 her  eyes  steadfastly  upon  me  and  smiled. 
 
78 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 CHAPTER  VI. 
 
 The  private  installation  having  taken  place, 
 I  was  conducted  by  Anina,  according  to  Her 
 Highness  s  orders,  down  the  flight  of  stairs  by 
 which  we  had  ascended  on  a  tour  of  inspection 
 through  the  Princess's  suite  of  rooms.  We  pro- 
 ceeded across  a  small  garden,  then  along  two 
 large  stone  halls,  around  which  were  ranged 
 divans,  similarly  covered  with  worsted  damask, 
 on  which  the  slaves  lounged  about  in  the  day 
 and  slept  at  night.  A  large  deal  table  stood 
 at  each  end.  On  each  side  are  several  rooms,  in 
 one  of  which  is  kept  the  drinking  water.  This 
 is  placed  in  large  earthen  jars,  resembling,  both 
 in  size  and  pattern,  olive-jars ;  the  key  of  which 
 is  in  the  charge  of  a  black  slave,  whose  office  it 
 is  to  dispense  it  daily.  In  another  is  made 
 their  Highnesses'  coffee.    Another  is  appropri- 
 
THE  LAUNDRY. 
 
 79 
 
 ated  as  the  dormitory  of  the  German  laundry- 
 maid  and  needlewoman. 
 
 Thence  we  passed  along  a  stone  passage 
 which  leads  to  Her  Highness's  bath-room,  a 
 small  apartment  entered  by  a  red-baize  covered 
 door,  studded  with  brass  nails.  The  marble  bath 
 is  both  long  and  wide,  with  taps  for  cold  and 
 hot  water.  The  water  used  for  bathing  actually 
 boils,  into  which  their  Highnesses  enter  when 
 taking  their  baths.  This  only  occurs  when  they 
 have  cohabited  with  the  Viceroy,  and  not  daily, 
 or  even  at  any  other  time,  as  so  many  authors 
 have  so  erroneously  stated.  The  bath  of  the 
 poets  is  a  myth. 
 
 They  are  attended  by  two  white  slaves,  who 
 soap  their  persons  all  over  before  they  enter 
 the  bath,  on  retiring  from  which  they  are 
 shampooed  and  highly  perfumed.  Leading 
 out  of  the  bath-room  is  a  small  dressing- 
 room,  having  a  divan  around  it  covered  with 
 red  velvet.  Here  a  slave  holds  a  toilet-glass 
 .  in  her  hand,  while  Her  Highness,  seated  on 
 the  divan,  dresses  herself. 
 
 Proceeding  along  a  stone  passage  we  passed 
 into  another  pile  of  buildings,  the  basement  of 
 
80 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 which  was  used  as  the  laundry,  in  which  stood 
 numerous  wooden  tanks  placed  on  the  stones, 
 as  the  slaves,  who  wash  every  thing  in  cold 
 water,  perform  that  operation  squatting  on  the 
 floor.  After  the  clothes  have  been  rinsed,  but 
 without  blue  being  mixed  in  the  water,  they  are 
 hung  up  on  lines  in  a  large  stone  yard.  On 
 Sundays  H.  H.  the  Viceroy's  clothes  are  washed. 
 Mondays  are  appropriated  for  Her  Highness 
 the  first  wife's  linen.  Tuesday  for  that  of  Her 
 Highness  the  Princess  Epouse  (the  second  wife). 
 Wednesday  for  Her  Highness  the  third  wife's. 
 Thursday  for  that  of  H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha 
 Ibrahim.  Friday,  being  the  Turkish  and  Egyp- 
 tian Sabbath,  because  their  prophet  Mahomet 
 was  conceived  on  that  day,  is  kept  holy. 
 On  Saturday  the  linen  of  the  ladies  of  the 
 Harem,  the  children,  and  the  domestic  slaves 
 is  washed.  The  ironing  and  getting-up  of  the 
 linen  takes  place  in  the  hall  on  the  deal  tables ; 
 but  I  shall  have  occasion  hereafter  to  enter 
 into  a  minute  detail  of  that  process. 
 
 After  we  had  inspected  these  apartments,  I 
 was  led  up  a  noble  marble  staircase  covered 
 with  gaudy  coloured  oil-cloth,  into  the  suite  of 
 
THE  "CAFESS" — CAGE. 
 
 81 
 
 apartments  appropriated  to  the  use  of  my 
 pupil,  H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha  Ibrahim,  who 
 was,  it  will  be  observed,  not  domiciled  in  the 
 Harem;  although,  I  must  inform  my  readers, 
 it  was  formerly  the  custom  both  in  Egypt 
 as  well  as  at  Constantinople,  to  have  all  the 
 Princes  brought  up  in  a  part  of  that  isolated 
 apartment  in  the  Harem  called  Cafess  'Cage/ 
 which  was  surrounded  by  lofty  walls. 
 
 There  the  Princes  were  kept  from  their  cradle, 
 without  holding  any  communication  with  the 
 outer  world,  or  any  officers  of  the  palace,  in 
 order  that  every  ambitious  and  magnanimous 
 thought  might  be  radically  extirpated  in  the 
 society  of  those  Thugs  of  the  Ottoman  Empire 
 — the  mutes;  those  phantoms  of  humanity,  the 
 eunuchs  (who  now  act  the  part  formerly  played 
 by  the  mutes,  as  there  are  but  one  or  two  in 
 the  palace  at  Constantinople,  and  not  one  in 
 Egypt) ;  hags  of  women — most  lascivious  and 
 disgusting  harridans  ;  and  lewd,  intriguing  and 
 aspiring  slaves.  Thus  both  sultans  and  vice- 
 roys had  no  cause  of  fear. 
 
 From  this  gilded  dungeon,  for  in  fact  it  was 
 no  better,  the  successor  to  the  throne  issued 
 
 vol.  L  G 
 
82 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 upon  the  death  of  the  reigning  sultan,  of  course 
 in  utter  ignorance,  with  no  knowledge  of  men 
 and  of  affairs,  and  quite  prepared  to  vegetate 
 upon  the  throne,  as  it  was  too  late  for  him  to 
 learn  anything ;  and  the  slothfulness  in  which 
 he  had  been  brought  up  too  deeply  rooted  in 
 his  mind  to  be  eradicated.  So  that  mauy 
 of  them  became  cruel,  others  besotted,  whi]e 
 the  rest  of  the  Princes  continued  to  vegetate 
 for  the  remainder  of  their  existence  in  the 
 cage,  where  they  were  taught,  as  an  antidote 
 against  melancholy  madness,  some  mechanical 
 art.  Many  were  employed  in  learning  turnery, 
 others  in  making  bows  and  arrows;  some  in 
 carving  tortoise-shell  and  ebony,  embroidering 
 morocco  leather  or  muslin.  The  cleverest 
 generally  amused  themselves  by  transcribing 
 the  Koran  and  other  canonical  works. 
 
 Whenever  it  happened,  (which,  however,  was 
 of  rare  occurrence,)  that  any  of  them  were 
 called  upon  to  hold  any  distinguished  post, 
 they  passed,  as  it  were,  from  darkness  into 
 light ;  were  generally  overawed  by  the  despot- 
 ism of  those  around  them ;  and  when  they 
 managed  to  shake  off  that  thraldom,  they  be- 
 
THE  PRINCESS'S  APARTMENTS.  83 
 
 came  steeped  in  cruelty  and  brutal  lust,  of 
 which  the  erudite  Dr.  Abbott,  in  his  work  on 
 Egypt,  has  left  most  painful  yet  faithful  records. 
 
 I  was  then  conducted  into  the  Princess's 
 suite  of  apartments,  which  consisted  of  two 
 large  saloons,  covered  with  magnificent  Brus- 
 sels carpet,  but  completely  besprinkled,  as  it 
 were,  with  spots  of  white  wax,  which  had  been 
 suffered  to  fall  from  the  candles  which  the  slaves 
 carry  about  in  their  fingers.  Around  them  were 
 placed  divans  covered  with  red  satin  damask ; 
 the  window  and  door  hangings  of  the  same  mate- 
 rial  :  a  very  large  mirror,  reaching  down  from 
 the  ceiling,  which  was  painted  with  flowers 
 and  fruits,  with  the  crescent,  and  numerous 
 warlike  instruments,  and  music,  placed  in  each 
 corner,  to  the  top  of  a  marble  table  supported 
 on  gilded  legs,  on  each  of  which  stood  a  silver 
 chandelier  containing  eight  wax  candles,  with 
 red-coloured  glass  shades  covered  with  painted 
 flowers. 
 
 Out  of  each  of  these  rooms  doors  opened 
 into  seven  others,  which  are  the  dormitories 
 of  the  young  Princesses,  the  daughters  of 
 H.  H.  the  Viceroy,  and  the  ladies  of  the  Harem . 
 
 G  2 
 
84 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 On  the  right-hand  side  of  the  first  room  was 
 the  small  bedroom  which  was  assigned  me  as 
 my  apartment,  and  which  was  to  serve  me, 
 like 
 
 "  The  cobbler's  stall, 
 For  chamber,  drawing-room,  and  all," 
 
 and  into  which  my  guide  conducted  me.  It 
 was  carpeted,  having  a  divan  covered  with 
 green  and  red  striped  worsted  damask,  which 
 stood  underneath  the  window,  which  com- 
 manded a  fine  coup-devil  of  the  gardens 
 attached  to  the  palace  and  H.  H.  the  Viceroy's 
 pavilion.  The  hangings  of  the  double  doors 
 and  windows  were  of  the  same  material. 
 The  furniture  consisted  of  a  plain  green- 
 painted  iron  bedstead,  the  bars  of  which  had 
 never  been  fastened,  and  pieces  of  wood, 
 like  the  handles  of  brooms,  and  an  iron  bar, 
 were  placed  across,  to  support  the  two  thin 
 cotton  mattresses  that  were  laid  upon  it. 
 There  were  neither  pillows,  bolsters,  nor  any 
 bed-linen ;  but  as  substitutes  were  placed  three 
 thin  flat  cushions ;  not  a  blanket,  but  two  old 
 worn-out  wadded  coverlets  lay  upon  the  bed. 
 
MY  BEDROOM. 
 
 8.3 
 
 Not  the  sign  of  a  dressing-table  or  a  chair  of 
 any  description,  and  a  total  absence  of  all  the 
 appendages  necessary  for  a  lady's  bedroom — 
 not  even  a  vase.  Certes  there  stood  within 
 that  narrow  cupboard -like  uncomfortable-look- 
 ing chamber  a  Parisian  chest  of  drawers  (rather 
 a  wonder,  for  the  Turkish  and  Egyptian  ladies 
 invariably  place  their  body-linen,  &c.  in  the 
 yonks,  cupboards,  constructed  in  the  walls  of 
 their  rooms)  having  a  marble  top,  and  a  shut- 
 up  washhand-stand,  to  correspond  with  an 
 elegantly-painted  ewer  and  basin  of  porcelain. 
 
 I  gazed  at  the  accommodation  assigned  to 
 me  with  surprise ;  and  yet,  what  could  I  have 
 expected,  as  every  apartment  which  I  had 
 passed  through  was  totally  destitute  of  every- 
 thing that  ought  to  have  been  placed  therein  ? 
 Not  a  footstool,  no  pianos,  nor  music-stools ; 
 not  a  picture  adorned  the  walls.  Being  "  The 
 Bower  of  Bliss  "  of  a  descendant  of  the  for- 
 midable Mahomet  Ali,  who  so  boldly  re- 
 pudiated the  Prophet  Mahomet's  doctrine, 
 "that  pictures  were  an  abomination,"  it  was 
 but  natural  for  me  to  imagine  that  I  should 
 find  some  beautiful  paintings  decorating  the 
 
86 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 principal  apartments.  But  no,  none  hung 
 there.  Not  a  single  article  of  vertu  graced 
 the  rich  console  tables. 
 
 In  short,  not  any  of  the  splendid  rooms  of 
 the  Enchanted  Palace  of  the  Croesus  of  the 
 nineteenth  century  contained  anything,  either 
 for  ornament  or  use,  except  the  bare  decora- 
 tions. In  fact,  the  whole  of  them  seemed  to 
 me  nothing  more  than  places  in  which  to  lie 
 down  and  in  which  to  vegetate,  aided  by  eata- 
 bles and  drinkables,  and  sleep.  They  were  even 
 destitute  of  soofras,  "  tables,"  whose  shapes  are 
 very  rude,  height  about  a  foot,  breadth  as 
 wide  as  a  plate ;  just  large  enough  to  hold  a 
 Turkish  coffee-cup,  "Jindjar"  or  the  bowl  of  a 
 pipe,  and,  although  inlaid  with  small  variegated 
 pieces  of  mother-of-pearl,  are  only  pretty,  not 
 having  anything  rich  or  elegant  about  them ; 
 still,  none  were  to  be  seen.  Accustomed  to 
 the  elegant  manner  in  which  drawing-rooms 
 of  the  nobility  of  my  own  country  are  set 
 off  with  elegant  fauteuils,  superb  occasional 
 chairs,  recherche  nicknacks,  as  well  as  a  whole 
 host  of  most  costly  things,  they  presented  a 
 most  beggarly  and  empty  appearance.  The 
 
FURNITURE. 
 
 87 
 
 whole  of  the  Harem  looked  like  a  house  only 
 partially  furnished ;  in  short,  like  a  dwelling 
 which  either  the  poverty  or  the  niggardness  of 
 its  proprietor  had  prevented  from  being  properly 
 furnished. 
 
 At  first  I  thought  this  proceeded  from  par- 
 simony ;  for  well  do  we  know  that  a  miser — 
 and  H.  H.  the  Viceroy,  like  his  strange  cha- 
 racter of  a  father,  Ibrahim  Pacha,  who  was  one 
 of  the  most  notorious  usurers  of  his  day — 
 loves  bright  golden  sovereigns  as  dearly  as  his 
 life ;  for 
 
 u  If  the  sun  on  his  table-cloth  instead  of  dry  bread  lay, 
 In  all  the  world  none  "would  behold  again  the  light  of  day;" 
 
 but  I  afterwards  learned  that  it  was  &  la  mode 
 Turque,  for  elegance  is  quite  eschewed  by  all 
 true  Ottomans. 
 
 It  most  decidedly  evinces  a  great  superiority 
 in  remarkable  characters,  who  have  revelled  in 
 the  midst  of  profusion,  to  be  able — like  that 
 departed  warrior  of  the  nineteenth  century, 
 the  renowned  Arthur,  Duke  of  Wellington, 
 who  expired  in  his  small  apartment  at  AVal- 
 mer  Castle,  plainly  fitted  up  with  that  camp 
 
88 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 furniture  which  had  been  his  only  luxury 
 throughout  his  most  memorable  campaigns — to 
 resign,  without  a  murmur,  almost  every  luxury 
 and  convenience.  It  exhibits  a  healthy  in- 
 dependence of  externals ;  but  it  is  a  state  of 
 things  that  brings  women  down  to  the  level  of 
 the  brute. 
 
 Eetracing  our  footsteps  Anina  led  me  into 
 that  vast,  regal-looking  chamber,  the  Hall  of 
 Audience  of  the  Castle  of  Indolence ;  for  it 
 was  much  more  spacious  and  loftier  than  the 
 Long  Room  in  the  Custom  House  in  London 
 The  floor  was  beautifully  enamelled,  as  it  were, 
 with  that  native  product  of  the  East,  the 
 glowing  alphabet  of  that  mystic  code  of  signals, 
 the  language  of  flowers,  woven  on  the  finest 
 carpeting  which  the  looms  of  Belgium  ever 
 wrought.  The  lofty  ceiling  was  as  exqui- 
 sitely painted  with  Egyptian  landscapes  as 
 the  Imperial  saloons  of  Versailles,  and  an 
 immense  gilt  chandelier  hung  suspended  from 
 the  rich  corniced  roof.  The  walls  were  papered 
 with  floral  designs,  all  in  unison  with  that 
 lovely  bouquet,  that  blossomed,  as  it  were,  be- 
 neath the  impious  footsteps  of  my  unbelieving 
 
HALL  OF  AUDIENCE. 
 
 89 
 
 self.  The  hangings  of  the  lofty  doors  and 
 noble  windows,  overlooking  those  perfumed 
 gardens  which  had  never  before  been  trodden 
 by  any  "  dog  of  a  Christian ; "  where,  above  them 
 
 "  With  blooming  splendours  God  had  sown  creation's  flower-bed, 
 And  in  the  flower-cup  of  space  had  hung  it  overhead  " 
 
 were  of  the  most  costly  description.  They  were 
 composed  of  rich  yellow  satin  damask  curtains, 
 overtopped  with  elaborately  gilded  cornices, 
 and  looped  up  with  massive  silk  cords  and 
 heavy  bullion  tassels.  From  the  walls  pro- 
 jected silver  chandeliers,  ornamented  with 
 coloured  tulip-shaped  shades,  the  transparent 
 wax  candles  in  which,  when  lighted,  threw 
 forth  a  most  agreeable  pink  shade  over  the 
 whole  of  this  superb  and  princely  reception 
 saloon.  Long  divans,  covered  with  rich  satin 
 damask,  bespangled  with  the  eternal  gold  and 
 silver  crescents  glittering  about  in  all  direc- 
 tions, like  stars 
 
 "  In  the  ethereal  firmament  on  high,'* 
 
 were  placed  under  the  whole  length  of  the 
 windows. 
 
90 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Here,  indeed,  might  be  seen  a  few  signs  of 
 elegance  and  refinement,  as  numerous  richly- 
 inlaid  console  tables,  which,  in  point  of  beauty 
 of  workmanship  and  design,  might  vie  in 
 splendour  with  those  in  the  Pitti  Palace  at 
 Florence,  supported  on  richly-gilded  legs,  were 
 scattered  about,  on  which  stood  several  beauti- 
 fully-painted Sevres  and  Japan  china  vases, 
 filled  with  most  lovely  nosegays  ! 
 
 Ah  !  gentle  reader !  they  were  bouquets  such 
 as  the  hand  of  no  European  Court  florist  could 
 possibly  have  arranged ;  they  were,  in  fact, 
 mosaics  of  petalled  gems,  works  of  art,  touches 
 of  genius,  brilliant  gew-gaw,  toy-like  bouquets, 
 which  would  outvie  the  far-famed  taste  of  the 
 flower-girls  of  lovely  Florence,  with  all  nature's 
 fair  charms  at  their  command  to  construct, 
 which  only  the  fingers  of  the  ladies  of  the 
 Harem  (for  that  is  one  of  the  special  duties 
 they  perform)  could  possibly  mingle  together. 
 The  harmonious  blending  of  the  brilliant 
 colours,  the  amalgamation  of  the  delicious 
 fragrance  of  their  powerful  perfumes  produced 
 nosegays  which,  while  they  charmed  the  eye, 
 emitted  forth  a  fragrance  that  quite  intoxi- 
 
HALL  OF  AUDIENCE. 
 
 91 
 
 cated  the  senses.  Between  them  were  placed 
 handsomely  painted  Japan  china  transparent 
 drinking  cups,  similar  in  shape  to  cordial  vessels, 
 standing  in  saucers  as  large  as  dessert  plates. 
 
 In  the  centre  stood  mechanical  Parisian  gilt 
 timepieces,  under  large  glass  shades,  marking 
 Turkish  time,  which  is  counted  from  sunrise  to 
 sunset,  and  which  are  daily  regulated  by  the 
 timepiece  at  the  Grand  Mosque  at  Cairo,  which 
 is  also  set  according  to  the  setting  of  the  sun. 
 They  played  tunes  in  lieu  of  striking  the  hours, 
 or  chiming  the  quarters  and  half-hours.  Im- 
 mense gilt  mirrors  reached  from  the  top  of 
 the  ceiling  down  to  the  floor. 
 
 But,  oh !  horror  of  horrors !  the  European 
 innovation  of  a  dozen  common  English  cane- 
 bottom  chairs,  on  which  I  afterwards  beheld 
 some  of  the  ladies  of  the  Harem  endeavour  to 
 establish  themselves,  and  at  which  exhibition 
 not  only  myself,  but  H.  H.  the  Viceroy  and 
 H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha,  could  not  refrain  from 
 laughing  outright !  as  one  of  their  legs  hung 
 down,  looking  most  miserably  forlorn,  while 
 the  other  sought  in  vain  for  room  to  double 
 itself  up  upon  the  chair  like  a  hen  at  roost, 
 
92 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 This  was  not,  most  assuredly,  in  keeping  with 
 the  magnificent  decorations  of  this  palatial 
 hall ;  and  this  constituted  all  the  furniture.  It 
 looked  bare,  vacant,  and  miserably  empty. 
 
 Upon  re-entering  the  apartment,  I  beheld 
 H.  H.  the  Princess  Epouse  (the  second  wife), 
 and  whom  I  designated,  in  contra-distinction 
 to  the  other  two  wives,  my  Princess,  as  I  was 
 attached  to  her  suite,  seated  on  the  divan, 
 doubled  up  like  a  clasp-knife,  attired  in  Turkish 
 costume,  very  plainly  dressed,  wearing  the 
 gauze  handkerchief  wound  round  her  head,  and 
 fastened  with  a  band,  containing  seven  (the 
 Moslem  s  magical  number,  as  they  believe  there 
 are  no  less  than  seven  heavens)  large  diamond 
 pins,  forming  as  many  of  those  scourges  of 
 Egypt,  flies. 
 
 She  was  smoking  a  cigarette,  for  cigarettes 
 have  of  late  years  almost  superseded  the  use  of 
 pipes  in  this  Elysium  of  Love.  Perhaps  the 
 expense  of  those  costly  amber-mouthed  and 
 jewel-studded  stems  used  by  the  elite  of  the 
 Turkish  and  Egyptian  ladies  of  rank,  may 
 have  contributed  in  no  slight  degree  to  that 
 innovation — for  economy  in  the  East  appears 
 
CIGARETTE-SMOKING. 
 
 93 
 
 to  be  the  order  of  the  day.  Her  Highness 
 was  smoking  it  most  cleverly:  she  really  seemed 
 to  puff  away  at  it  as  if  it  were  her  amusement, 
 and  so  it  evidently  was  ;  but  yet  I  soon  dis- 
 covered that  my  Princess,  like  the  generality 
 of  all  honourable  Turks,  was  the  slave  to 
 tobacco  in  the  form  of  cigarettes.  I  cannot 
 help  thinking  that  such  constant  use  of  the 
 weed  vitiates  their  character,  and  renders  stag- 
 nant the  small  stock  of  stability  with  which 
 the  Almighty  has  endowed  the  Ottomans  of 
 both  sex.  Well,  there  she  sat,  just  like  one 
 of  the  porcelain  figures  which  ornament  the 
 chimney  pieces  in  Germany.  Not  a  muscle  did 
 she  move — she  looked  like  wax-work,  and  her 
 figure  would  have  made  an  excellent  addition 
 to  Madame  Tussaud's  celebrities. 
 
 How  much  did  I  regret  that  I  had  not  been 
 taught  the  art  of  taking  photographs,  for  then 
 I  could  have  daguerreotyped  the  whole  of  the 
 inmates  of  the  Harems  of  Egypt  and  Constan- 
 tinople. It  was  an  opportunity  missed  of  por- 
 traying, from  life,  the  caged  beauties  of  the 
 East.  This  is  much  to  be  regretted,  as  no 
 other  European  lady  is  ever  again  likely  to 
 
94 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 have  the  chance.  By  her  side  sat  the  darling 
 of  her  soul,  H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha  Ibrahim, 
 his  person  unadorned  by  any  jewel,  except  the 
 blue  turquoise  bead  in  the  tassel  of  his  fez. 
 
 Several  of  the  young  Princesses,  the  daughters 
 of  their  Highnesses  first  and  second  wives,  sat 
 close  to  her.  The  eldest  of  these  was  about 
 sixteen  years  of  age.  Her  name  was  Niemour ; 
 she  was  tall  and  slender  in  figure,  of  dark  com- 
 plexion, brown  eyes,  short  nose,  and  was  attired 
 in  white  linen  ;  her  feet  were  encased  in  light- 
 coloured  French  boots,  her  hair  was  bundled 
 up,  uncombed,  into  a  dark  net,  and  round  her 
 head  she  wore  a  circlet  of  blue  velvet,  with  a 
 plume  of  red  feathers  hanging  over  the  left 
 side  of  her  face.    She  wore  no  ornaments. 
 
 Around  this  group  of  the  Viceregal  family 
 stood  about  fifty  slaves,  in  the  form*  of  a  semi- 
 circle. There  Arabs,  Abyssinians,  Ethiopians, 
 and  Nubians,  were  all  mingled  indiscriminately 
 together,  dressed  in  different  coloured  muslins, 
 all  wearing  handkerchiefs  on  their  heads,  and 
 attired  in  satin,  stuff,  and  silk  paletots  of  almost 
 every  colour  in  the  rainbow ;  in  short  they 
 formed  a  complete  kaleidoscope.    Their  hands 
 
PRIXCESS  EPOUSE. 
 
 95 
 
 and  ears  were  most  profusely  ornamented. 
 On  the  former  they  wore  numerous  rings  of 
 diamonds,  and  other  valuable  stones;  in  the 
 latter,  large  brilliant  earrings,  which  were  tied 
 from  ear  to  ear  at  the  back  of  the  head,  with  a 
 piece  of  twisted  coloured  cord,  so  as  to  prevent 
 them  from  losing  them — as  they  are  placed  in 
 the  ear  without  rings,  and  hang  down  upon  a 
 piece  of  twisted  gold  wire,  in  shape  like  a 
 watch-hook.  All  had  valuable  gold  watches, 
 which  were  suspended  from  their  necks  by 
 thick  massive  gold  chains  stuck  in  their  waist- 
 bands. They  presented  a  singular  contrast  to 
 H.  H.  my  Princess,  who  perhaps  when  making 
 her  toilet,  as  to  me  that  memorable  day,  thought 
 that 
 
 "  If  mean  or  costly  dresses  through  this  globe 
 Decide  the  rank  in  which  beings  are  enrolled  ; 
 Why,  then  we  '11  clothe  the  wolf  in  satin  robe, 
 The  alligator  in  fine  silk  enfold." 
 
 As  I  approached,  H.  H.  the  Princess  Epouse 
 rose  from  the  divan,  motioned  to  me  to 
 occupy  her  seat,  and'  thus  was  I  officially  in- 
 stalled as  governess  to  H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha 
 Ibrahim,  the  infant  son  of  H.  H.  Ismael  Pacha, 
 Viceroy  of  Egypt. 
 
96 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 CHAPTEE  VII. 
 
 As  soon  as  H.  H.  the  Princess  Epouse  had 
 quitted  the  oda,  "  apartment/'  I  was  sur- 
 rounded by  the  entire  motley  group  of  slaves, 
 both  black  and  white.  Most  of  them  assumed 
 singular  gestures ;  some  knelt  and  kissed  my 
 hands,  others  my  knees,  and  many  of  them 
 squatted  themselves  down  at  my  feet.  The 
 ladies  of  the  Harem  patted  me  on  the  back, 
 a  sign  of  their  pleasure  at  seeing  me ;  and 
 almost  all  kissed  my  cheeks. 
 
 All  of  a  sudden  I  was  electrified  at  hear- 
 ing upwards  of  fifty  voices  exclaiming  simul- 
 taneously, "Koneiis !  Qui-yis !  Koneiis ! " 
 "  Pretty  !  Pretty ! "  While  a  whole  chorus 
 shouted  forth,  "  Gurzel !  Gurzel ! "  "  Beauti- 
 ful !    Beautiful ! " 
 
 Some  of  them  took  up  the  black  straw-hat 
 which  I  had  taken  off  and  laid  down  upon  the 
 
LUNCHEON. 
 
 97 
 
 divan  at  my  side.  This,  they  passed  from 
 hand  to  hand,  gazing  with  pleasure  and  de- 
 light at  that  specimen  of  English  manufacture. 
 After  this  they  examined  the  whole  of  my 
 costume  from  head  to  foot.  What  seemed  to 
 attract  their  notice  the  most  was  the  crinoline 
 I  wore,  which  was  by  no  means  a  large- 
 sized  one ;  and  yet  many  Turkish  and  Egyp- 
 tian ladies  of  the  present  day  may  be  seen  in 
 the  streets  of  Alexandria  and  Constantinople 
 walking  about  in  that  appendage. 
 
 At  the  earnest  request  of  some  of  the  ladies 
 of  the  Harem,  I  rose  from  my  seat,  and  walked 
 up  and  down  that  noble  hall,  in  order  that 
 they  might  see  how  European  ladies  generally 
 paced  up  and  down  their  rooms. 
 
 Anina,  thinking  that  I  must  require  some  re- 
 freshment after  my  journey  from  Cairo,  clapped 
 her  hands,  which  is  the  Turkish  and  Egyp- 
 tian manner  of  calling  domestics,  when  two 
 white  slaves  left  the  room,  but  soon  returned, 
 accompanied  by  two  other  black  slaves,  who 
 carried  in  their  hands  a  silver  tray,  on  which 
 was  placed  a  kebab,  a  small  piece  of  mutton 
 on  a  silver  skewer,  which  had  been  broiled 
 
 vol.  t  H 
 
98 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 upon  charcoal  almost  to  a  cinder.  It  was 
 highly  spiced  and  sugared.  A  flat  cake  of 
 "white  Arab  bread,  as  salt  as  brine,  was  placed 
 by  it.  There  were  no  cruets,  nor  sauce,  nor 
 gravy  of  any  kind,  but  a  knife  and  plated 
 fork.  This  they  placed  upon  a  soofra,  at  the 
 side  of  the  divan. 
 
 While  I  was  endeavouring  to  partake  of  this 
 specimen  of  viceregal  hospitality — for  I  had 
 been  so  surfeited  with  food  cooked  d  VArabe 
 at  the  banker's,  that  my  heart  turned  against 
 it — they  kept  gazing  at  me  in  as  much  aston- 
 ishment as  a  child  looks  at  the  wild  beasts  at 
 their  feeding  time  in  the  Zoological  Gardens  in 
 the  Kegent's  Park,  and  watched  the  manner  in 
 which  I  used  my  knife  and  fork  and  ate  my 
 nnpalateable  refreshment,  as  if  I  had  been  a 
 wild  animal  out  of  the  depths  of  an  Indian 
 forest. 
 
 After  I  had  partaken  of  a  few  mouthfuls, 
 I  made  a  sign  that  I  had  finished,  for  at  that 
 time  I  was  unacquainted  either  with  the  Arabic 
 or  Turkish  languages,  both  of  which,  however, 
 I  picked  up  in  a  very  short  space  of  time. 
 Then  a  jincljan,  a  small  cup,  of  the  finest 
 
THE  PRINCE'S  AMUSEMENT. 
 
 99 
 
 Mocha  coffee  in  a  gold  zarf  was  served  me, 
 and  a  handful  of  cigarettes,  made  of  the  golden 
 leaf  tobacco  of  Stamboul,  handed  to  me  on  a 
 silver  tray.  Not  having  as  yet  acquired  the 
 fashionable  habit,  for  it  has  become  one  on  the 
 Continent,  even  among  the  American,  Eussian, 
 and  English  ladies  (who  in  that  respect  appear 
 of  late  years  to  have  fraternized  with  the 
 Italian,  Spanish,  and  Portuguese  ladies),  of 
 smoking,  I  so  far  committed  a  breach  of 
 Oriental  etiquette  as  to  decline  the  fragrant 
 weed,  notwithstanding  that  Her  Highness  "  my 
 Princess  "  had  sent  them  to  me. 
 
 H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha,  who  had  now  be- 
 come accustomed  to  me,  sat  quietly  enough 
 by  my  side,  playing  with  the  charms  that 
 hung  suspended  from  my  watch-guard;  for, 
 knowing  that  I  should  find  the  meanest  of  the 
 slaves  bedecked  with  jewels  of  costly  price, 
 I  had  made  up  my  mind  not  to  wear  my 
 jewelry,  and  to  dress  as  neatly  and  simply  as 
 my  position  would  admit. 
 
 Soon  His  Highness  became  tired  of  those 
 toys,  rose  from  his  seat,  took  me  by  the  hand, 
 with  his  left  hand,  while  one  of  his  little  sisters 
 
 H  2 
 
100 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 clasped  the  other  tightly  in  hers.  They  led 
 me  down-stairs,  saying  that  they  would  take 
 me  for  a  benich,  "promenade,"  as  they  termed 
 it.  AYe  accordingly  proceeded  across  the  small 
 garden,  to  the  hard,  sandy  promenade  on  the 
 banks  of  the  Nile. 
 
 I  was  now  styled  the  Cocana,  "lady,"  and 
 was  attended  by  the  two  usual  male  attendants 
 of  H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha,  one  of  whom  was  a 
 Turk,  named  Eeschid,  and  the  other  a  Greek, 
 Spiraki  by  name,  a  man  about  fifty  years  of 
 age,  who  had  originally  been  a  merchant,  and 
 was  in  the  service  of  the  late  Viceroy,  Said 
 Pacha.  Both  were  dressed  in  black  frock 
 coats,  buttoned  up  to  the  chin,  and  wore  fezes 
 on  their  heads.  These,  who  walked  behind 
 myself  and  the  Viceregal  children,  were  fol- 
 lowed by  two  soldiers,  who  kept  at  a  respectful 
 distance. 
 
 Scarcely,  however,  had  I  reached  the  prome- 
 nade, when  Spiraki,  who  spoke  most  wretched 
 bad  French,  approached  me,  salaamed,  and 
 informed  me  that,  as  my  penates  had  been 
 placed  in  my  chamber,  I  could  return,  as  he 
 would  take  charge  of  H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha, 
 and  the  little  Princess  his  sister. 
 
Ibrahim's  head  nurse. 
 
 101 
 
 Consequently  I  retraced  my  steps  alone,  and 
 passed  into  the  reception  hall ;  but  scarcely 
 had  I  entered  my  chamber,  when  His  Higli- 
 ness's  nurse,  dada,  whose  name  was  Shaytan, 
 bounced  into  the  apartment.  She  was  an 
 Ethiopian,  as  black  as  ebony,  having  the  usual 
 negro  features,  with  very  large  broad  lips. 
 Her  hair,  which  was  like  wool  itself,  was  cut 
 short,  plaited  into  rows  round  her  head,  over 
 which  she  wore  a  coloured  handkerchief.  Her 
 face  was  scarred  with  three  large  incisions  on 
 each  cheek.  Her  countenance  was  one  of  the 
 most  artful,  cunning,  and  malicious  it  is  pos- 
 sible to  conceive :  she  was,  in  fact,  an  admirable 
 type  of  the  lowest  caste  negress  to  be  found 
 in  Ethiopia.  She  was  afflicted  with  a  most 
 ungovernable  temper.  Kevenge  and  hatred 
 seemed  to  be  depicted  in  her  face,  and  it  was 
 an  enigma  to  me  how  H.H.  the  Viceroy,  or 
 my  Princess,  could  possibly  have  selected  such 
 a  creature  to  nurse  my  pupil. 
 
 She  was  accompanied  by  half  a  dozen  black 
 slaves,  certainly  not  very  prepossessing  crea- 
 tures, but  at  all  events  rather  more  sightly 
 than  her  hideous  self.     It  appeared  that  they 
 
102 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 had  been  employed  in  placing  my  luggage  in 
 the  room.  Upon  seeing  me  the  whole  of  them 
 stood  by  while  I  arranged  my  things,  staring 
 at  both  myself  and  luggage  as  if  I  had  just 
 been  imported  from  the  Gold  Coast.  Assuredly 
 both  myself,  habiliments,  manners,  habits,  and 
 customs  were  a  source  of  great  novelty  and 
 amusement  to  them,  so  that  I  made  all  due 
 allowance  for  their  curiosity,  and  took  their 
 inquisitiveness  in  good  part. 
 
 After  having  satisfied  their  innate  desire  of 
 peeping  and  prying  into  every  trunk,  and  hand- 
 ling some  of  the  apparel  I  had  unpacked,  they 
 salaamed  and  left  me  to  myself,  for  which  kind- 
 ness I  really  felt  thankful. 
 
 I  can  scarcely  describe  my  disgust  and  dis- 
 appointment on  finding  that,  although  I  held 
 the  responsible  office  of  institutrice  to  a  prince, 
 the  only  legitimate  son  of  the  wealthiest  prince 
 in  the  universe,  the  sole  accommodation 
 afforded  me  was  a  small,  wretchedly-furnished 
 dormitory,  such  a  chamber  as  the  lady's-maid 
 of  any  of  the  wives  of  our  wealthy  commoners 
 would  not  have  slept  in  two  nights.  There 
 I  was,  without  a  chair  to  sit  upon,  or  a  table 
 
DORMITORY  INCONVENIENCES.  103 
 
 to  write  on,  with  barely  room  to  dress  in,  and 
 totally  destitute  of  anything  to  make  myself 
 comfortable — not  even  the  convenience  of  what 
 the  French  term  a  vase ! 
 
 It  was  such  a  very  different  reception  to 
 what  I  had  looked  forward  to,  that,  when  I 
 thought  of  the  comfortable  home  I  had  left  in 
 my  own  native  land,  and  the  kind  attention 
 I  had  received  at  Mr.  B.  s,  at  the  hands  of  him- 
 self and  his  German  housekeeper,  I  could  not 
 help  giving  vent  to  my  feelings,  as  I  threw 
 myself  upon  my  hard  pallet.  Ah  !  gentle  reader, 
 it  was  as  hard  as  a  board,  and  would  have  dis- 
 graced the  meanest  cottage  of  our  humblest 
 peasant;  and  I  wished  a  thousand  times  that 
 I  had  never  set  foot  within  the  precincts  of  the 
 Harem. 
 
 It  had  just  struck  six,  European  time,  when 
 Shaytan,  the  head-nurse,  entered  my  room  most 
 unceremoniously,  and  informed  me  that  H.  H. 
 the  Princess  Epouse  desired  me  to  take  the 
 Grand  Pacha  for  a  walk  into  the  garden, 
 
 Tired,  vexed,  and  annoyed  as  I  was,  I  hastily 
 attired  myself,  proceeded  into  the  reception- 
 hall,  and,  taking  the  little  prince  by  his  left 
 
104 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 hand,  I  descended  to  the  promenade,  accom- 
 panied by  the  usual  retinue.  Hence  we  passed 
 through  a  small  wooden  gate,  then  across  a 
 garden,  all  railed  in  with  light  iron  fences,  to 
 another  gate  which  led  into  the  garden,  par 
 excellence,  in  which  was  a  square  sheet  of 
 water,  also  railed  round  with  iron  fencing, 
 having  in  its  centre  a  wooden  pagoda,  encircled 
 with  a  terrace,  winch  is  ascended  by  three 
 broad  marble  steps,  with  four  large  lions  at 
 each  corner  of  the  structure,  from  the  mouths 
 of  which  issued  forth  volumes  of  water.  A 
 pleasure-boat  was  at  anchor  on  it ;  black  and 
 white  swans  were  sporting  about,  searching  for 
 small  fry ;  ducks  and  water-fowls,  much  more 
 rare  and  beautiful  than  those  that  are  to  be 
 seen  in  St.  James's  Park,  were  swimming  about 
 in  all  directions. 
 
 On  the  roof  of  the  pagoda  sat  a  number  of 
 birds  ;  among  which  were  several  fine  specimens 
 of  Egyptian  crows,  of  black  and  grey  plumage, 
 which  had  there  built  their  nests. 
 
 At  one  end  of  the  water  stood  a  beautiful 
 white  marble  kiosk,  having  handsome  damask 
 cushions  placed  all  round  the  inside.    At  each 
 
THE  HAREM  GARDENS.  105 
 
 of  the  four  corners  of  the  raised  marble-terraced 
 walk  around  the  sheet  of  water  stood  large 
 vases,  filled  with  odoriferous  flowering  shrubs 
 and  interpersed  with  beautiful  blooming  exotics  ; 
 and  at  the  sides  of  the  corners  were  placed 
 painted  china  cushions,  so  exquisitely  finished 
 that  they  had  all  the  appearance  of  being  real 
 silk-covered  cushions,  having  also  china  tassels 
 suspended  at  each  corner. 
 
 Four  broad  steps  led  down  into  the  garden 
 close  to  a  plain  white  marble-columned  gate, 
 on  the  top  of  which  stood  out  in  bold  relief 
 the  statues  of  two  huge  life-sized  lions.  As  we 
 proceeded  along  the  path  to  the  left, 
 
 "  The  garden  like  a  lady  fair  was  cut, 
 That  lay  as  if  she  slumber' d  in  delight, 
 And  to  the  open  skies  her  eyes  did  shut ; 
 The  azure  fields  of  heaven  were  'sembled  right 
 In  a  large  round,  set  with  flowers  of  light ; 
 The  Jleurs-de-luce  and  the  round  sparks  of  dew 
 That  hung  upon  their  azure  leaves,  did  shew 
 Like  twinkling  stars,  that  sparkle  in  the  evening  blue." 
 
 I  examined  attentively  the  different  male  and 
 female  statues  that  were  dotted  about  among 
 the  orange  trees  and  myrtle  hedges.  Here  and 
 there  were  scattered  rose-trees,  the  brilliancy 
 
106 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 of  whose  variegated  colours  and  the  perfume 
 of  their  flowers  were  delightfully  refreshing. 
 Geraniums,  of  almost  every  hue, — jessamine, 
 whose  large  white  and  yellow  blossoms  were 
 thrice  the  size  of  those  in  England — and  a 
 variety  of  indigenous  and  Eastern  plants,  shrubs, 
 and  flowers,  were  so  thickly  studded  about 
 that  they  rendered  the  coup  d'ceil  extremely 
 picturesque,  and  perfumed  the  air  gratefully 
 to  the  senses.  Verbena  trees,  as  large  as  ordi- 
 nary fruit  trees ;  other  plants,  bearing  large 
 yellow  flowers  as  big  as  teacups,  with  most 
 curious  leaves  ;  cactuses,  and  a  complete  galaxy 
 of  botanical  curiosities,  whose  names  the  genius 
 of  a  Paxton  would  perhaps  be  puzzled  to  dis- 
 close, ornamented  these  Elysian  grounds. 
 
 At  the  end  of  this  garden  we  entered  a  maze 
 formed  of  myrtle  hedges,  then  in  full  bloom; 
 thence  we  passed  along  a  path  on  the  right- 
 hand  side,  and  came  upon  a  "  merry-go-round," 
 on  which  the  little  prince  took  great  delight  in 
 seating  himself, 
 
 "  Many  a  time  and  oft," 
 
 while  I  whirled  him  round  for  many  a  half- 
 
WATERWORKS  AND  STATUES.  107 
 
 hour.  It  was  similarly  constructed  to  those 
 I  had  seen  in  the  Champs  Elysees,  in  Paris. 
 
 Close  by  was  a  large  marble  basin  of  water, 
 in  the  centre  of  which,  supported  by  four  life- 
 sized  angels,  from  whose  mouths  played  forth 
 jets  d'eau,  spruug  forth,  as  it  were,  another 
 basin ;  and  in  the  middle  stood  the  colossal 
 figure  of  the  goddess  Ceres,  bearing  on  her  head 
 an  open-worked  basket  of  carved  marble  fruit 
 and  flowers,  beautifully  coloured  in  imitation 
 of  nature ;  while  in  her  exquisitely- wrought 
 hand  she  held  a  cornucopia,  filled  with  ears  of 
 corn  and  bunches  of  white  and  black  grapes. 
 The  water  that  spouted  forth  from  the  mouths 
 of  the  four  cherubims  was  thrown  up,  by  means 
 of  an  hydraulic  pump,  into  the  horn  of  the 
 Goddess  of  Plenty,  from  whence  it  trickled 
 down  most  gracefully.  The  lower  basin  was 
 surrounded  by  a  marble-paved  verandahed  walka 
 or  terrace,  interspersed  with  light  iron  fancy 
 chairs,  couches,  and  tables.  It  was  completely 
 sheltered  from  the  rays  of  the  scorching  sun 
 by  immense  willow  trees  planted  round  the 
 basin,  and  numerous  marble  statues  were  scat- 
 tered between  their  graceful  drooping  foliage. 
 
108 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Passing  along  another  path,  we  reached  the 
 swings,  which  Tom  Moore,  in  his  "  Lalla  Kookh," 
 describes  as  being  "  always  a  favourite  pastime 
 with  the  Orientals/'  which  were  erected  in  the 
 shape  of  old-fashioned  barouche  carriages.  They 
 were  all  fitted  up  with  handsome  cushions, 
 wound  up  with  a  key,  swung  alone  by  aid  of 
 machinery,  but  were  in  a  most  dilapidated 
 state. 
 
 Leaving  these  neglected  sources  of  amuse- 
 ment, we  proceeded  along  a  path  to  the  right, 
 passed  through  a  most  superb  marble-paved 
 hall,  the  ceiling  of  which  is  in  fresco  and  gold. 
 It  is  supported  upon  twenty-eight  plain  pink- 
 coloured-  marble  columns,  surmounted  by  richly 
 gilded  Indian  wheat,  the  leaves  of  which  hang 
 down  most  gracefully.  On  each  side  of  which, 
 and  also  above  (all  of  which  are  now  finished 
 — they  were  then  in  course  of  construction) 
 are  some  very  handsome  lofty  rooms,  the  ceil- 
 ings of  which  are  also  in  fresco,  with  superb 
 gilded  panels  and  richly-decorated  cornices  all 
 round. 
 
 In  the  centre  of  this  regal  saloon  hangs  a 
 magnificent  glass  chandelier  capable  of  holding 
 
ISMAEL  PACHA'S  PAVILION.  109 
 
 two  hundred  wax-lights.  Thence  we  passed 
 through  a  door  which  led  us  into  another  garden, 
 at  the  extremity  of  which  stands  H.H.  the 
 Viceroy  Ismael  Pacha's  pavilion.  For  we  have 
 all  along  been  describing  the  Harem  Gardens, 
 in  which,  however,  strange  to  state,  their  High- 
 nesses the  Princesses  seldom  if  ever  promenaded. 
 Why  or  wherefore  I  am  unable  to  say ;  perhaps 
 indolence  was  the  primary  cause  ;  but  I  strongly 
 surmise  that  one  of  the  chief  reasons  was,  their 
 Highnesses'  dislike  to  be  attended  by  any 
 suite,  especially  their  guardians  the  eunuchs. 
 Therefore  they  refrained  from  roaming  about 
 this  almost  earthly  paradise ;  for  it  is  impossible 
 to  conceive  any  idea  of  their  beauty,  and  the 
 skill  with  which  they  have  been  laid  out. 
 
 The  grounds  of  Frogmore,  the  Crystal  Palace, 
 St.  Cloud,  Versailles,  the  Duke  of  Devonshire's 
 far-famed  Chatsworth,  and  our  national  pride, 
 Kensington  Gardens,  and  Windsor  Home  Park, 
 exquisite,  beautiful,  and  rural  as  they  are,  most 
 assuredly  partake  of  the  grand  and  magni- 
 ficent ;  but  then  they  all  lack  the  brilliant 
 display  of  exotics  which  thrive  here  in  such 
 luxuriance.   The  groves  of  orange  trees,  the 
 
110 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 myrtle  hedges,  the  beautiful  sheets  of  water, 
 the  spotless  marble  kiosks,  the  artistic  statuary, 
 are  all  so  masterly  blended  together  with  such 
 exquisite  taste,  that  these  gardens,  the  exe- 
 cution of  which  was  carried  out  under  the 
 personal  inspection  of  that  strangest  of  cha- 
 racters, the  gallant  Ibrahim  Pacha,  after  his 
 return  from  his  tour  in  Europe,  completely 
 outvie  them. 
 
 Then  we  came  upon  an  immense  lake,  the 
 sides  and  bottom  of  which  are  paved  with  stone, 
 which  is  covered  over  with  marble  cement ;  the 
 water,  by  means  of  large  pipes  laid  down,  is 
 supplied  from  the  Nile. 
 
 Passing  along  the  marble  walk  we  soon 
 reached  the  Viceroy's  pavilion — 
 
 "  Where  in  gay  splendour  and  luxurious  state 
 Mahomet  Ali's  proud  descendant,  on  the  Nile's  shore, 
 Near  old  Cairo,  populous  and  great, 
 Holds  his  bright  court  .  .  .  ." 
 
 Murray,  in  his  Handbook  for  Egypt,  states, 
 that  "  none  of  the  Viceregal  palaces  are  worth 
 visiting."  I  must  beg  to  differ  from  the 
 author  of  that  work,  and  to  explain  that  no 
 travellers  have  as  yet  been  able  to  inspect  those 
 
THE  SALOON. 
 
 Ill 
 
 on  the  banks  of  the  Lower  and  Upper  Nile, 
 several  of  which  are  not  only  situated  in  most 
 picturesque  spots,  but  fitted  up  in  the  most 
 luxurious  regal  style.  In  short,  I  hardly  think  it 
 probable  that  sight-seers  would  obtain  access  to 
 them,  as  in  most  cases  the  Harems  adjoin  them, 
 and  for  that  reason  they  would  be  inaccessible. 
 
 I  shall  now  proceed  to  describe  the  one 
 we  were  approaching.  It  is  a  long,  two- 
 storied,  white  marble  structure,  most  admirably 
 erected  on  a  highly-polished  black  marble  ter- 
 race, and  reached  by  a  flight  of  three  broad 
 marble  steps.  A  broad  verandah  runs  along 
 the  whole  length,  shaped  like  a  Chinese  pagoda, 
 and  supported  by  sixteen  red,  green,  and  black 
 porphyry  columns ;  between  which  stand  square 
 blocks  of  beautifully  polished  variegated  mar- 
 ble, on  which  are  antique-looking  vases,  having 
 large  rams'  heads  with  horns  as  handles,  and 
 these  are  all  filled  with  the  choicest  exotics. 
 Suspended  from  the  roof  of  the  verandah  hung 
 numerous  gilt  lamps  of  exquisite  design. 
 
 Entering  the  interior  at  the  right-hand  side, 
 we  passed  into  one  of  the  finest  saloons  I  had 
 ever  entered.     The  floor  was  covered  with  an 
 
112 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 elegant  carpet,  the  pattern  of  which  represented 
 the  most  lovely  moss  imaginable,  the  brilliancy 
 of  whose  shades  rivalled  those  of  the  exotics  in 
 the  grounds.  The  ceiling  is  most  exquisitely 
 painted  in  fresco,  in  squares,  in  each  of  which 
 were  represented  groups  of  various  kinds,  such 
 as  men,  women,  and  animals.  Some  contained 
 unique  sketches  of  Egyptian  landscape,  views 
 of  Alexandria,  Cleopatra's  Needle,  Cairo,  as 
 seen  from  the  citadel,  the  prettiest  spots  up 
 the  banks  of  the  Lower  and  Upper  Nile,  Nubia, 
 Ethiopia,  Karnac,  Thebes,  Constantinople,  Pera, 
 the  lovely  Bosphorus,  and  the  Cataracts.  The 
 walls 
 
 "  With  costly  tapestry  were  hung, 
 Where  was  inwoven  many  a  gentle  tale, 
 Such  as  of  old  the  rural  poets  sung 
 Or  of  Egyptian  or  Turkish  vale." 
 
 It  was  lighted  by  four  enormously  large,  stained 
 glass  windows  of  the  richest  colours  imaginable, 
 and  also  by  an  immense  cupola-dome.  The 
 hangings  of  the  doors  and  windows  were  of 
 elegant  flowered  white  satin,  the  exotics  on 
 which,  especially  the  colours  of  the  variegated 
 selection  of  roses,  were  most  exquisitely  finished. 
 The  chairs  and  sofas,  for  divans  were  excluded 
 
THE  DRAWING  ROOM. 
 
 113 
 
 from  this  luxurious  apartment,  were  of  white, 
 ormolu  and  gold ;  the  ^eats  and  footstools 
 covered  with  the  same  material,  as  also  the 
 couches.  Large  mirrors  hung  down  from  the 
 ceiling  to  the  floor ;  in  short,  the  walls  were 
 almost  like  a  glass  curtain.  In  the  centre 
 stood  a  superb  round  inlaid  mosaic  table,  sup- 
 ported on  massive  gilded  feet. 
 
 On  the  brown  and  red  marble  mantelpiece 
 stood  a  handsome  large  modern  timepiece,  sup- 
 ported by  gilt  figures,  on  either  side  of  which 
 were  placed  two  massively-chased  candelabras, 
 each  containing  twelve  transparent  coloured 
 wax  candles. 
 
 Entering  the  small  drawing-room  adjoin- 
 ing, which  was  furnished  in  a  similar  manner, 
 only  with  blue  satin  drapery  and  covers  to  the 
 furniture  in  lieu  of  white,  we  passed  into  the 
 dining-room,  which  was  very  long.  It  was 
 covered  with  a  thick  green  carpet,  studded 
 with  raised  moss-roses.  In  the  centre  stood 
 a  long  carved  oak  dining-table,  capable  of  ac- 
 commodating thirty  or  forty  guests.  The  seats  of 
 the  chairs,  (which  were  of  carved  oak,  and,  most 
 singular  to  add,  wuVre-shaped,)  were  covered 
 
 vol.  L  i 
 
114 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 with  green  velvet,  and  studded  with  gilt  nails. 
 The  walls  were  of  oak  panels,  also  carved  in 
 mitre-shape,  which  would  most  assuredly  have 
 shocked  the  orthodoxy  of  any  mufti,  if  such 
 personages  have  ever  entered  its  precincts, 
 which  I  very  much  doubt. 
 
 The  roof  was  of  stained  glass,  from  the  centre 
 of  which  was  suspended  a  large  gilt  chandelier, 
 containing  no  less  than  a  hundred  transparent 
 coloured  wax  candles.  Against  the  sides  of 
 the  walls,  and  at  the  extremities  of  the  room, 
 were  fixed  several  silver  branch  candelabras, 
 each  containing  twelve  similar  lights.  The 
 hangings  of  the  doors  and  windows  were  of 
 green  velvet,  lined  throughout  with  white  satin, 
 looped  up  with  gold  bullion  tassels.  Then  we 
 passed,  as  the  Poet  Thomson  has  so  naively 
 described  it,  through  doors  that — 
 
 "  Self  opened  into  halls,  where,  I  can  hardly  tell 
 What  elegance  and  grandeur  wide  expand, 
 The  pride  of  -Turkey  and  of  Persia  land  ! 
 Soft  quilts  on  quilts,  on  carpet  carpets  spread, 
 And  couches  stretched  around  in  seemly  band  ; 
 And  endless  pillows  rise  to  prop  the  head  ; 
 So  that  each  spacious  room  was  one  full  swelling  bed." 
 
 Leaving  which  we  entered  another  apartment. 
 
STUFFED  ANIMALS. 
 
 115 
 
 This  was  covered  with  a  crimson  and  black 
 carpet,  the  walls  and  ceiling  similar  to  those  of 
 the  drawing-room,  having  likewise  silver  candela- 
 bras  fixed  to  the  walls,  and  a  most  magnificent 
 gilt  chandelier  hanging  from  the  centre  of  the 
 ceiling.  The  chairs  were  rosewood,  covered 
 with  crimson  satin,  as  also  the  divans.  The 
 hangings  of  the  doors  and  windows  were  of  the 
 same  rich  material,  looped  up  with  heavy  silk 
 cords  and  tassels  of  the  same  colour.  It  was 
 furnished  with  handsome  ebony  cabinets,  inlaid 
 with  precious  stones,  on  which  stood  elegant 
 gilt  cases  of  stuffed  birds,  the  choicest  selection 
 of  Egyptian,  Indian,  and  American  ornithology 
 which  could  possibly  be  selected. 
 
 In  the  corners  of  this  apartment  stood 
 several  stuffed  animals  with  glass  eyes,  which 
 were  rolling  about  by  means  of  mechanism. 
 In  front  of  the  fireplace  lay  crouched  down  a 
 full-sized  stuffed  tiger,  at  the  sight  of  which, 
 the  doors  being  open,  H.H.  the  Grand  Pacha 
 Ibrahim  screamed  so  violently  that  I  could 
 not  pacify  him,  nor  could  I  persuade  him  to 
 enter  the  apartment.  On  several  other  occa- 
 sions when  I  visited  this  pavilion,  where  I  often 
 
 I  2 
 
116 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 passed  much  of  my  time,  H.H.  the  Prince 
 Ibrahim  never  could  be  induced  even  to  walk 
 by  the  windows  of  that  to  him  most  terrible 
 "  chamber  of  horrors/'  until  he  had  seen  the 
 attendant  carefully  lock  the  door  and  draw 
 down  the  transparent  coloured  silk  blinds  be- 
 fore his  face.  Often  have  I  smiled  as  I  saw 
 the  little  grandson  of  the  renowned  Ibrahim 
 Pacha  stand  like  a  mute  peering  at  the  windows 
 until  his  guard  of  honour  had  stationed  them- 
 selves at  the  corner  of  each  window. 
 
 Continuing  my  inspection  alone  of  this  ele- 
 gant yet  strangely-arranged  room,  I  walked 
 across  to  the  other  end  of  it,  where  stood  a  large 
 white  polar  bear.  A  small  but  most  beautifully- 
 marked  tiger-cat  lay  crouching  down  at  its 
 side,  and  close  by  was  a  fine  group  of  cranes. 
 Upon  examining  these  animals,  I  found  that 
 they  all  could  be  put  in  motion  by  means  of 
 the  mechanical  power  attached  to  them. 
 But  what  rendered  it  more  singular,  was  the 
 fact  that  their  natural  powers  or  articula- 
 tion could  be  made  to  issue  forth  from  their 
 mouths,  so  that,  literally  speaking,  I  found 
 myself  in  a  den  of  wild  beasts ;  and  I  thought 
 
THE  VICEREGAL  BEDCHAMBER.  117 
 
 of  Sir  David  Baird,  and  Tippoo  Saib  and  his 
 tigers — but  in  the  case  of  the  Mysorean  Prince 
 the  animals  were  alive,  and  chained  to  a  pillar 
 near  his  Harem. 
 
 It  is  a  well-known  fact  that  Ibrahim  Pacha 
 was  of  a  cruel  and  brutal  disposition,  and  it  is 
 most  probable  that  he  had  these  animals  col- 
 lected together  and  set  in  motion  whenever  he 
 had  commanded  the  attendance  of  any  Turkish 
 or  Arab  dignitary  from  whom  he  desired  to 
 extort  money,  for  avarice  was  one  of  his  pre- 
 dominant vices.  This  vice  was,  however,  of 
 rather  a  refined  nature,  as  from  the  immense 
 wealth  he  had  accumulated  he  must  have  been 
 perfectly  au  fait  in  the  art  of  toning  his 
 talaris,  "money,"  to  the  best  advantage,  which 
 tact  H.H.  Ismael  Pacha,  the  present  Viceroy, 
 inherits  in  a  most  remarkable  degree. 
 
 As  soon  as  I  had  joined  the  little  prince,  who 
 waited  patiently  while  I  explored  the  chamber, 
 we  opened  a  door  on  the  right  hand,  passed 
 through  a  small  marble-paved  hall  in  which 
 stood  four  life-size  statues,  each  holding  gilt 
 lamps  in  their  hands,  which  led  us  into  the 
 Viceregal  Bedchamber.    It  was  a  noble-looking 
 
118 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 room,  covered  with,  a  handsome  Brussels  carpet, 
 with  black  ground  and  thickly  studded  with 
 bouquets  of  variegated  flowers  of  almost  every 
 hue.  The  whole  was  scrupulously  clean.  The 
 gilt-iron  bedstead  was  surmounted  with  gilded 
 knobs,  as  also  the  foot  and  head  plates.  The 
 musquito  curtains  were  of  fine  crimson  silk 
 gauze  bespangled  with  gold  crescents.  The 
 washhand-stand  was  of  pure  white  marble,  with 
 ewer,  basin,  and  the  other  usual  appendages 
 of  beautifully  painted  Sevres  china,  the  bouquets 
 on  which  were  artistically  executed,  and 
 matched  the  carpet  admirably.  A  large  pier- 
 glass  hung  down  from  the  ceiling.  The  divan 
 (which  was  rather  diminutive  in  comparison  to 
 those  generally  placed  in  the  apartments  of 
 Turkish  dwellings,)  and  chairs  were  covered 
 with  crimson  silk  bespangled  with  gold  cres- 
 cents. The  toilet-table,  on  which  were  placed 
 His  Highness's  toilet  requisites,  all  of  solid  gold, 
 inlaid  with  most  valuable  precious  stones,  was 
 covered  with  a  similar  cloth. 
 
 The  ebony  cabinet  was  inlaid  with  gold  and 
 costly  jewels,  on  each  side  of  which  stood  two 
 silver  branch  candelabras  holding  a  dozen  trans- 
 
THE  GUESTS'  CHAMBER. 
 
 119 
 
 parent  coloured  wax-candles ;  and  in  the  centre 
 was  placed  His  Highness's  jewel  casket,  a 
 perfect  gem  of  the  same  material,  richly  inlaid. 
 The  walls  were  covered  with  crimson  paper, 
 embossed  with  gold  crescents.  The  ceiling  was 
 beautifully  painted  with  Turkish  and  Egyptian 
 landscapes.  The  chimney-piece  was  of  white 
 marble,  and  the  handsome,  elegant  bronze  stove 
 on  the  spotless  white  marble  hearth  was  con- 
 structed in  the  form  of  a  kiosk. 
 
 Then  we  proceeded  through  a  door  that  was 
 left  wide  open  into  another  chamber  similarly 
 fitted  up,  except  that  the  furniture  was  of 
 yellow  satin  bespangled  with  silver  crescents, 
 which  was  invariably  occupied  by  that  Ikbcd, 
 "  favourite,"  whom  the  Viceroy  from  time  to 
 time  delighted  to  honour.  This  was  the  guests5 
 chamber,  and  the  history  of  its  occupants  would 
 form  a  singular  addition  to  the  annals  of 
 Egyptian  history.  The  beds  in  both  these 
 rooms  were  encased  in  richly  figured  satin, 
 which  matched  the  hangings  of  each  apart- 
 ment. 
 
 Passing  out  of  the  Pavilion  by  the  same 
 way  we  had  entered,  we  turned  to  the  left, 
 
120 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 and  proceeded  across  a  garden  intersected 
 with  cuttings  rilled  with  the  water  of  the  Nile, 
 by  which  means  the  grounds  were  irrigated. 
 These  extensive  gardens  are  completely  flooded, 
 night  and  morning,  by  means  of  the  river 
 water  which  is  allowed  to  pass  through  large 
 pipes  and  is  turned  on  by  taps  and  sluice 
 gates. 
 
 Crossing  several  of  those  cuttings,  as  also 
 deep  dykes  in  different  places,  which  were 
 bridged  over  with  wide  planks,  we  reached  the 
 barracks,  situated  at  the  back  of  the  pavilion. 
 These  consist  of  along  wooden  shed  raised  upon 
 piles,  and  the  walls  are  constructed  of  mud. 
 The  roof  and  Venetian  shutters,  (for  there  are  no 
 windows,)  are  of  wood,  the  latter  of  which  are 
 closed  at  night.  They  are  divided  off  into  two 
 or  three  rooms,  which  are  merely  furnished 
 with  wooden  divans,  on  which  the  soldiers  sit 
 by  day  and  sleep  on  the  floors  at  night,  rolled 
 up  in  their  dark  brown  blankets.  In  a  straight 
 line  with  these  rooms  are  the  officers'  quarters, 
 erected  in  the  shape  of  a  Chinese  pagoda. 
 They  are  ascended  by  a  flight  of  wooden  steps, 
 and  consist  of  two  rooms  in  each  compartment. 
 
THE  TURKISH  SENTINEL^  REFRAIN.  121 
 
 They  are  furnished  with  divans,  the  cushions  of 
 which  are  covered  with  common  chintz.  The 
 floor  is  matted.  The  walls  and  ceiling  are 
 whitewashed.  The  sentries  on  guard  presented 
 arms  to  His  Highness  and  myself. 
 
 As  I  passed  the  windows,  or  more  properly 
 speaking  the  openings,  (for,  as  I  have  before 
 observed,  there  were  none,  as  the  openings  are 
 destitute  of  frames  and  glass,)  I  observed  both 
 officers  and  men  lolling  out  of  their  respective 
 loop-holes :  the  former  were  in  undress,  but  the 
 latter  I  can  scarcely  describe.  They  never 
 undress  themselves,  but  sleep  in  their  clothes, 
 which  are  never  taken  off  their  backs  except 
 on  fete  days,  and  at  the  Turkish  fete  of 
 the  Bairam  !  On  that  occasion  they  receive 
 new  uniforms.  Many  of  them  were  eating 
 onions,  cucumbers  and  other  vegetables  in  their 
 crude  state.  On  another  occasion,  when  pass- 
 ing by  these  wretched  quarters,  I  heard  one 
 of  the  soldiers  singing  "  The  Turkish  Sentinel's 
 Refrain,"  of  which  the  following  is  a  transla- 
 tion : — 
 
 "  I  am  a  native  of  Rhoda,  and  since  my  birth  I  have  beheld 
 the  Nile  inundate  my  paternal  lands  no  less  than  seven  times. 
 
122 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 There  lived  a  man  of  the  name  of  Abderahnian,  next  door  to 
 me,  who  had  a  daughter,  whose  countenance  had  never  been 
 gazed  upon  by  any  other  being  than  myself. 
 
 The  beauty  and  symmetry  of  Fatima  were  absolutely  incom- 
 parable. 
 
 Her  eyes  were  as  large  as  coffee  cups,  'findjans.'  Her  figure 
 was  stout  and  well  made. 
 
 We  loved  each  other,  and  we  were  waiting  to  be  united  in  the 
 bonds  of  wedlock  ; 
 
 When  the  Recruiting  Sergeant,  'Fiachef,''  whom  the  devil  take, 
 handcuffed  me,  and  lugged  me  off  by  the  scurf  of  the  neck,  with 
 fifty  others  to  the  camp. 
 
 As  both  myself  and  neighbour  were  very  poor,  we  were  unable 
 to  give  the  Sergeant  sufficient  baksheesh  to  satisfy  him,  and  may 
 the  devil  take  him  ! 
 
 The  sound  of  the  drums,  trumpets,  and  fifes  so  bewildered  my 
 senses,  that  I  soon  forgot  my  peaceful  hut,  my  goats,  and  my 
 water-mill ;  but  I  have  never  ceased  to  think  of  the  joy  of  my 
 heart — my  beautiful  Fatima. 
 
 Soon  I  had  a  gun,  uniform,  and  wallet  given  to  me  ;  then  I 
 was  drilled  to  turn  my  head  to  the  right,  then  to  the  left,  to 
 hold  my  leg  up  in  the  air,  stand  upright,  afterwards  to  shoulder 
 arms,  present  arms,  and  many  other  manoeuvres. 
 
 Soon  I  was  ordered  away  with  my  regiment  at  Mecca, 
 
 When  I  gazed  upon  the  Kaaba,  '  Mahomet's  Tomb.' 
 
 We  bivouacked  in  the  desert,  in  the  rocks,  in  the  mountains  ; 
 
 We  slew  the  enemies  of  the  prophet,  and  then  I  returned  a 
 Hadje,  '  Pilgrim,'  from  Mecca.    May  God  be  thanked  ! 
 
 I  was  soon  made  a  corporal  ;  and  after  three  years'  active 
 service,  we  embarked  on  board  a  man-of-war,  and  returned  to 
 the  country  watered  by  the  far  famed  Nile. 
 
 There  we  encamped,  and  I  longed  to  return  once  again  to 
 Rhoda,  and  behold  my  Fatima. 
 
 Still  I  was  afraid  to  ask  for  leave  of  absence,  lest  I  should 
 find  things  fearfully  changed. 
 
 Then  the  fever  seized  me,  and  I  became  an  inmate  of  the 
 
THE  TURKISH  SENTINEl/s  REFRAIN.  123 
 
 Hospital  at  Cairo,  where  the  Hekim  Frandje,  1  Christian  doctors ' 
 prevented  me  from  eating,  and  treated  me  much  more  cruel  than 
 sickness  itself. 
 
 I  was  obliged  to  sell  my  Tain,  '  rations.'  May  the  devil  take 
 them  ! 
 
 Every  day  I  became  weaker  and  more  sorrowful.  I  was  on 
 the  point  of  death. 
 
 One  morning  the  doctors  brought  me  a  medicine,  the  smell  of 
 which  made  me  shudder,  and  I  became  worse.  I  had  just  raised 
 the  cup  up  to  my  lips,  when  I  fancied  that  I  heard  a  voice  from 
 without — the  sound  of  which  pierced  my  very  heart — call  to  me 
 Mustafa  !  Mustafa  !  in  enui.    i  Oh,  my  eyes  ! '  » 
 
 I  threw  the  cup  at  the  apothecary's  nose ;  my  strength  seemed 
 restored  to  me,  and  the  blood  circulated  in  my  veins.  I  rose  up 
 quite  convalescent,  and  those  fools  of  doctors  thought  that  it 
 was  their  physic  which  had  cured  me.  My  discharge  !  said  I. 
 They  gave  it  to  me,  and  I  rushed  into  the  arms  of  my  Fatima, 
 who  had  been  most  anxiously  awaiting  my  release. 
 
 After  we  had  embraced  each  other,  she  related  to  me  how 
 she  had  become  acquainted  with  my  return,  and  how  she  managed 
 to  enter  the  camp. 
 
 When  I  attempted  to  enter,  said  she,  a  black  presented  the 
 point  of  his  bayonet  to  my  breast,  crying  out  dour,  '  stop.'  As 
 she  did  not  understand  the  meaning  of  the  word  dour,  '  stop,' 
 so  she  did  not  answer,  and  the  black  fellow,  crying  out  still  more 
 lustily,  advanced  towards  her,  when  the  Turkish  officer  came  out 
 and  asked  her  what  she  wanted  ? 
 
 I  want  my  Mustafa,  replied  she  ;  my  affianced,  whom  I  have 
 not  seen  for  these  three  years.  And  then  the  officer,  turning 
 his  back  upon  her,  exclaimed,  I  know  nothing  of  him  !  The 
 poor  girl  retired,  quite  brokenhearted  ;  but  having  met  the  sister 
 of  one  of  the  sergeants,  Your  lover,  said  that  noble  woman,  is 
 lying  at  the  hospital  so  ill  that  he  is  at  the  point  of  death. 
 
 Swifter  than  the  fleetest  gazelle,  that  dearest  angel  of  my  life, 
 drawing  near  to  the  window  of  the  hospital,  exclaimed  Mustafa, 
 Mustafa,  in  enui  !    '  Oh  my  eyes  ! 1 
 
124 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Intoxicated  with  joy,  I  bore  her  in  triumph  through  the  camp. 
 I  pointed  her  out,  like  a  madman,  to  my  Colonel,  my  Com- 
 mandant, my  Captain,  my  Lieutenant,  and  my  Sergeant ;  and, 
 having  obtained  a  furlough,  we  went  to  Rhoda  to  get  married, 
 where  the  good  old  Abderahman  was  waiting  to  bestow  his 
 blessing  upon  us.    May  God  be  praised,  God  is  great !  " 
 
 As  His  Highness  the  Grand  Pacha  Ibrahim 
 began  to  complain  of  being  tired,  and  I  have 
 no  doubt  that  his  little  legs  must  have  ached, 
 we  turned  our  footsteps  towards  the  Harem. 
 
 I  was  rather  taken  aback  after  we  had  pro- 
 ceeded a  short  distance  by  observing  the  atmo- 
 sphere become  all  at  once  dark  and  gloomy ; 
 but  turning  round  I  perceived  dense  volumes 
 of  black  smoke  issuing  forth  from  a  huge,  tall 
 chimney  towering  in  the  distance  up  to  the 
 sky.  It  raised  its  dark  head  a  little  beyond 
 the  whitewashed  barracks.  I  inquired  of 
 Spirake,  the  Greek  attendant,  the  name  of  the 
 building,  when  he  informed  me  that  it  was  His 
 Highness  the  Viceroy  s  sugar  refinery.  I  then 
 learned  that  immense  quantities  of  sugar  were 
 manufactured  from  the  cane  which  grew  on  His 
 Highness  Ismael  Pacha's  estates  near  Minich, 
 which  produce  yields  the  billionaire  merchant 
 prince  a  most  lucrative  return,  for  the  sale  of 
 
SUGAR  REFINERY. 
 
 125 
 
 sugar  throughout  the  whole  length  and  breadth 
 of  Egypt  is  monopolized  by  His  Highness  the 
 Viceroy. 
 
 The  refinery  that  we  had  seen  towering 
 in  the  distance  yields  upwards  of  30,000 
 quintals  annually,  and  there  coal  is  used  to 
 clarify  the  sugar  in  lieu  of  bullocks  blood. 
 This  explanation  fully  accounted  for  the  huge 
 pile  of  black  diamonds  that  I  had  observed 
 piled  up  on  the  sides  of  the  landing-place  when 
 I  first  approached  the  gates  of  the  Harem. 
 
 On  my  return  I  thanked  His  Highness  the 
 Grand  Pacha  Ibrahim  for  the  very  attentive 
 and  kind  manner  in  which  he  had  shown  me 
 all  the  Hons  of  the  Harem  gardens,  the  Vice- 
 roy's pavilion  and  the  barracks. 
 
126 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 CHAPTER  VIII. 
 
 As  soon  as  I  reached  the  Prince  s  suite  of 
 apartments,  I  found  the  head-nurse  waiting  to 
 conduct  His  Highness  to  his  supper,  as  it  was 
 about  half-past  seven,  European  time.  I  then 
 proceeded  with  my  pupil  downstairs,  then 
 across  the  small  garden  into  a  large  room  on 
 the  ground-floor,  which  was  usually  occupied 
 in  the  day-time  by  several  of  the  ladies  of  the 
 Harem.  The  floor  was  covered  with  a  hand- 
 some Brussels  carpet ;  the  walls  papered  with  a 
 simple  pattern ;  the  ceiling  was  painted.  The 
 curtains  of  the  windows  and  doors  were  of  red 
 damask  •  a  divan  extended  along  one  side. 
 
 The  five  youthful  slaves  who  formed  His 
 Highness's  staff  of  domestics  entered  the  room 
 soon  after  we  had  seated  ourselves.  One  car- 
 ried the  soofra  (a  kind  of  very  low  table),  while 
 
THE  CARTE. 
 
 127 
 
 the  others  bore  the  viands,  of  which  the  fol- 
 lowing is  la  carte  : — 
 
 Soup,  made  from  sheep's  shanks  or  fowls, 
 having  rice  and  forcemeat  balls  (made  of  the 
 crumbs  of  bread  left  on  the  trays)  in  it. 
 
 Legs  of  mutton  (which  are  as  small  as  the 
 lamb  of  Italy),  roasted,  and  stuffed  with  the 
 kernels  of  ground-nuts,  onions,  raisins,  spice, 
 and  sugar. 
 
 Tomatoes,  scooped  out  and  filled  with  meat, 
 rice,  and  spice. 
 
 Cucumbers,  dressed  in  a  similar  manner. 
 
 Boiled  cucumbers,  small  vegetable-marrows, 
 onions,  and  pieces  of  fowl,  all  mixed  up  to- 
 gether. 
 
 Broad  beans,  boiled  in  their  shells,  from 
 which  the  bean  is  removed  at  table,  and  then 
 eaten. 
 
 Boiled  chickory,  chopped  up  very  fine,  and 
 then  re-boiled  in  fat. 
 
 Cutlets,  fried  in  syrups  with  spice. 
 Boiled  fowls. 
 
 Pickles ;  salads,  dressed  with  lamp-oil  and 
 water ;  onions,  in  their  crude  state ;  undressed 
 cucumbers. 
 
128 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Lemons,  sweetmeats,  syrups. 
 
 Confectionary,  most  tastefully  formed  into 
 numerous  devices,  some  like  Banbury  cakes, 
 but  which,  in  lieu  of  being  made  with  jam  in 
 the  centre,  contained  a  quantity  of  whey,  as 
 salt  as  brine. 
 
 Jelly,  with  strawberries  placed  whole  in  it. 
 
 Pastry,  consisting  of  batter  fried,  then  opened, 
 and  sour  milk  poured  into  it. 
 
 Batter-balls,  fried  in  syrups ;  hard  bread- 
 balls,  similarly  cooked. 
 
 Large  patties,  filled  with  eggs  and  sour  milk. 
 
 Pancakes,  fried  in  grease,  and  eaten  with 
 syrups. 
 
 Bowls  of  sour  milk ;  sour  milk,  with  slices  of 
 crude  cucumber  swimming  in  it. 
 
 Thick  rice-milk  with  sugar  and  jams,  eaten 
 with  milk. 
 
 The  dessert  consists  of  all  the  various  fruits 
 in  season ;  and  the  only  beverage  was  water 
 and  sherbet,  which  the  Prince  and  the  other 
 children  drank  out  of  silver  mugs,  each  having 
 one  appropriated  for  his  exclusive  use. 
 
 H.H.  the  Grand  Pacha  was  fed  by  Shaytan, 
 who,  squatting  herself  down  upon  the  ground 
 
BREAD  BALLS. 
 
 129 
 
 by  Lis  side,  took  the  morsels  out  of  china  dishes 
 and  put  them  into  his  mouth.  She  used  a 
 spoon  for  the  pilau,  but  broke  the  bread,  dipped 
 it  into  the  liquid  viands,  and  placed  it  into  his 
 mouth.  At  the  same  time  the  other  Viceregal 
 children  sat  in  children's  chairs  round  the 
 soofra,  and  each  was  fed  by  the  under-nurses 
 in  a  similar  manner. 
 
 If  a  piece  of  bread  happens  to  fall  upon  the 
 ground,  it  is  picked  up  immediately,  the  word 
 Bismillah !  is  repeated  several  times,  the  bread 
 is  kissed,  and  then  placed  up  to  the  forehead; 
 but  if  crumbs  only  fall,  instead  of  leaving  them 
 to  be  swept  up  as  Europeans  are  accustomed  to 
 do,  they  pick  them  up  one  by  one,  and  eat  them 
 But  should  any  pieces  that  have  fallen  be  dirty, 
 they  are  placed  on  the  statues  in  the  small 
 garden,  for  the  birds  to  eat.  All  the  broken 
 bread  at  the  meals  is  carried  away  to  the  kitchen, 
 where  it  is  moistened  with  milk,  squeezed  by 
 the  hand  into  balls,  and  then  fried  in  batter  and 
 sugar.    Of  those,  however,  I  never  partook. 
 
 The  whole  of  the  slaves  are  supplied  with 
 the  dark  Arab  bread,  and  it  not  unfrequently 
 happened  that  both  myself  and  the  German 
 
 VOL.  I.  K 
 
130 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 maids  were  kept  on  very  short  commons.  In 
 fact,  time  after  time,  I  have  actually  been  with- 
 out any  bread  at  all,  as  the  slaves,  who  are  all 
 most  adroit  thieves,  would,  whenever  they  could 
 find  an  opportunity,  steal  the  European  bread 
 with  which  we  Europeans  were  alone  provided ; 
 for  their  Highnesses  the  Princesses,  the  Viceroy's 
 wives,  invariably  partook  of  white  Arab  bread, 
 which  was  also  as  salt  as  the  briny  ocean.  The 
 inmates  of  the  Harem  have  a  perfect  horror  of 
 dropping  bread,  and  I  have  often  heard  them 
 scream  with  dismay  as  a  piece  fell  from  their 
 hands. 
 
 After  H.H.  the  Grand  Pacha  had  finished 
 his  supper,  a  large  silver  basin,  shaped  like  a 
 glass  goblet,  which  had  been  brought  into 
 the  room  with  the  viands  and  placed  upon 
 the  carpet,  was  raised  up  by  a  young  slave, 
 who  knelt  down  and  held  it  before  the  Prince. 
 The  head-nurse  then  took  a  piece  of  rag  (not  a 
 towel),  soaped  it  with  a  ball  of  white  soap, 
 (which,  together  with  a  piece  of  linen,  is  always 
 placed  in  the  centre  of  the  strainer  that  stands 
 by  the  side  of  the  basin,)  and  washed  his  face. 
 After  this  she  wrung  the  rag,  and  wiped  him 
 
THE  TRAY  AFTER  MEALS. 
 
 131 
 
 witli  it ;  then  she  held  his  hands  over  the 
 basin,  and  water  was  poured  upon  them  out  of 
 the  silver  ewer,  which  is  shaped  like  an  old- 
 fashioned  coffee-pot,  but  having  a  long  spout, 
 curved  downwards.  The  same  ceremony  was 
 observed  by  the  under-nurses  with  the  other 
 children,  each  of  whom  had  separate  basins 
 and  ewers. 
 
 It  is  hardly  possible  to  give  an  accurate 
 description  of  the  appearance  of  the  tray  after 
 their  Highnesses  had  partaken  of  their  meals 
 It  looked  just  as  if  the  whole  contents  of  a  few 
 of  those  plate-baskets  which  are  used  in  the 
 kitchens  of  the  first-class  London  hotels  to 
 place  the  pieces  in  collected  off  the  plates  that 
 come  down  from  the  several  dinner-tables  had 
 been  emptied  on  to  it. 
 
 Here  and  there  lay  morsels  which  had  been 
 torn  asunder  from  the  joint  or  bird,  and,  being 
 unsuited  to  the  palate  of  the  guest,  had  been 
 thrown  down,  after  having  been  mawled  about 
 in  their  fingers ;  pieces  of  broken  bread,  crumbs 
 of  pastry,  the  remains  of  vegetables,  both  cooked 
 and  crude ;  in  short,  it  presented  a  sight  that 
 would  make  the  stomach  of  a  cook-shop  carver 
 K  2 
 
132 
 
 HAKEM  LIFE. 
 
 heave  again.  It  was  one  of  the  most  disgusting 
 sights  I  had  ever  witnessed,  and  this  was  the 
 scene  enacted  daily.  Then  the  ladies  of  the 
 Harem  had  their  meals  off  it,  just  as  it  was. 
 
 After  the  Viceregal  children  had  partaken  of 
 their  repast,  then  the  nurses,  who  in  their  turn 
 were  waited  upon  by  their  Highnesses  little 
 slaves  (for  each  Princess  has  two  slaves  to  wait 
 upon  her,  and  act  as  their  playmates),  helped 
 themselves. 
 
 When  they  had  finished,  the  group  of  little 
 slaves  (who,  as  I  shall  hereafter  show,  are  near 
 relations  of  H.H.  the  Grand  Pacha)  cleared  the 
 things  away  ;  and  carrying  them  into  the  Stone 
 Hall,  placed  them  on  the  basement  floor,  and 
 there  squatted  themselves  down,  and  regaled 
 themselves,  like  the  beggars  of  old,  on  the 
 crumbs  which  had  fallen,  as  it  were,  from  the 
 table  of  their  superiors.  These  sometimes  were 
 very  scanty,  as  no  separate  table  was  ever 
 provided  for  them. 
 
 After  supper  was  finished,  a  little  slave  acted 
 as  marshal,  and  led  the  way,  holding  a  silver- 
 gilt  lantern,  in  which  was  placed  a  large  wax- 
 candle.    Then  Shaytan  carried  the  Prince  up 
 
THE  NURSERY  AND  ITS  OCCUPANTS.  133 
 
 into  his  reception-room,  which  at  that  time 
 presented  a  most  singular  and  novel  scene.  It 
 appeared  that  during  supper-time  a  number  of 
 other  slaves  had  been  busily  engaged  in  re- 
 moving out  of  the  "  Bed  Store-room  "  the  beds 
 that  had  remained  piled  up  there  during  the 
 day-time,  and  had  placed  them  upon  the  carpet. 
 Each  of  the  Viceregal  children  and  their  nurse 
 had  two  mattresses  assigned  them,  which  were 
 encased  in  cotton  covers. 
 
 On  His  Highness's  bed  was  laid  a  sheet,  then 
 three  flat  cushions,  also  encased  in  muslin,  the 
 ends  of  which  were  embroidered  in  red  worsted 
 and  tied  with  ribbons,  for  his  head  to  rest  upon, 
 in  lieu  of  pillows ;  and  over  the  whole  were 
 placed  two  dark-coloured  wadded  coverlets, 
 under  which  the  Prince  slept.  On  one  side 
 were  ranged  the  beds  of  his  little  sisters,  and 
 by  the  side  of  them  those  of  the  nurses,  and  on 
 the  other  side  that  of  the  head-nurse. 
 
 The  Prince  and  his  little  slaves  played  about 
 for  a  short  time  amidst  this  "  one  full-swelling 
 bed ; "  after  which  Shay  tan  undressed  him. 
 which  she  did  in  the  following  manner  :  first 
 she  removed  his  trousers,  then  the  little  coat 
 
134 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 and  clay-shirt,  and  then  re-dressed  him  in  his 
 night-attire,  which  consisted  of  a  pair  of  calico 
 trousers,  fastened  round  his  waist  by  a  long 
 strip  of  muslin,  with  embroidered  ends  run 
 through  the  broad  hem.,  not  unlike  a  pair  of 
 Indian  "pyjamas"  over  which  was  placed  a 
 cotton  dressing-gown,  open  all  up  the  front, 
 and  over  that  a  blue  quilted  cashmere  paletot. 
 His  waist  was  girded  with  a  silk  handkerchief ; 
 his  head  was  covered  with  a  white  cotton  fez, 
 with  strings  which  were  tied  under  his  chin. 
 His  sisters  were  also  similarly  attired. 
 
 As  soon  as  he  was  dressed  in  his  night- 
 clothes,  a  silver  brazier,  filled  with  charcoal, 
 was  brought  into  the  room.  In  it  was  thrown 
 a  quantity  of  wood  of  aloes,  aromatic  gum,  and 
 lumps  of  crystallized  sugar.  Then  the  head- 
 nurse  lifted  up  His  Highness  in  her  powerful 
 arms,  and  swung  him  round  it  nine  times,  while 
 she  counted  that  number  aloud  in  Turkish ; 
 but  why  that  number  was  used  I  was  unable 
 to  learn.  After  this  she  exclaimed,  Allah ! 
 Alia  !  BismiUali !  ("  God  !  God  !- — in  the  name 
 of  the  most  merciful  God  ! ")  The  same  cere- 
 mony was  performed  by  each  of  the  other  nurses 
 
OCCUPATION  OF  THE  PRINCESS  EPOUSE.  135 
 
 with  their  Highnesses  the  little  Princesses ; 
 then  he  was  laid  down  in  his  bed. 
 
 The  nurses  then  took  it  in  turns  to  repeat 
 stories,  or  else  sang  himself  and  his  sisters  to 
 sleep  ;  their  everlasting  monotonous  chaunt  con- 
 sisting of  B aba,  Xi-na!  Baba,  Ni-na!  "father, 
 mother;"  Xi-na  !  Xi-na!  "mother,"  in  different 
 tones  of  voice, 
 
 During  the  whole  of  this  preparation  for  re- 
 tiring to  rest,  H.  H.  the  Princess  Epouse  sat 
 upon  the  divan,  smoking  cigarettes.  All  the 
 nurses  sat  at  the  side  of  the  beds,  or  else  at  the 
 door.  Those  who  were  not  engaged  in  telling 
 stories  were  employed  at  needlework,  which 
 they  executed  with  their  left  hands,  until  they 
 retired  to  rest,  which  all  did  about  ten  o'clock, 
 European  time.  At  that  hour  the  Keslar  Agaci, 
 Grand  Eunuch,  captain  of  the  girls,  accompanied 
 by  several  of  his  attendants,  like  the  matron  of 
 an  English  house  of  correction 
 
 u  Goes  his  nightly  rounds," 
 
 locks  the  outer  gates  of  the  "Abode  of  Bliss," 
 and  then 
 
 "  His  guard  tread  softly  o'er  the  grass  beneath  their  feet 
 Which  leadeth  them  the  Kislar  Agaci  to  meet." 
 
136 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 and  the  guardians  of  the  enchanted  palace  all 
 repair  to  their  respective  apartments  to  smoke 
 their  pipes,  and  enact  the  farce  of  "  High  Life 
 Below  Stairs,"  which  I  shall  subsequently  show 
 they  did  to  perfection. 
 
 Above  the  whole  of  that  most  motley  group, 
 which  was  assembled  together  in  the  Eeception 
 Hall,  hung  suspended  an  enormous  large  co- 
 loured muslin  musquito  curtain,  made  in  the 
 form  of  a  canopy,  similar  to  that  which  is  daily 
 seen  carried  in  Catholic  countries  over  the  head 
 of  the  dignitary,  who  walks  along  the  streets 
 when  the  Host  is  being  carried  to  a  dying 
 person.  Attached  to  the  four  comers  of  the 
 square  flat  top  piece,  were  sown  four  large  gilt 
 rings,  through  each  of  which  was  run  the 
 crimson  cord,  which  was  fastened  to  the  large 
 brass  hooks  that  were  driven  into  the  walls. 
 It  was  then  looped  up  to  them ;  the  long  ends 
 hanging  down  to  the  floor  and  being  tucked 
 underneath  the  mattresses,  left  the  whole  group 
 of  children  and  nurses  snugly  ensconsed  within 
 its  ample  folds. 
 
 A  large  silver-gilt  lantern,  containing  two 
 lighted  transparent  wax-candles,  as  long  as 
 
THE  GOVERNESS  AT  SUPPER.  137 
 
 those  used  by  mourners  in  Catholic  countries, 
 was  left  burning  upon  the  floor  all  night. 
 
 This  scene,  which  brought  to  my  mind  the 
 encampment  of  a  party  of  gipsies  on  the  stage, 
 appeared  to  me  most  singular  and  novel,  and  it 
 was  some  time  before  I  could  bring  my  mind  to 
 look  upon  it  as  a  reality.  At  moments,  when 
 I  gazed  upon  the  group,  I  thought  it  was  the 
 idle  phantom  of  a  dream ;  but  I  was  soon 
 awakened  from  that  delusion  by  the  entrance 
 of  Clara,  the  German  laundrymaid,  who  came 
 to  announce  that  my  own  supper  was  ready. 
 
 Retiring  from  that  noble  apartment,  now  so 
 strangely  metamorphosed  into  the  Viceregal 
 nursery,  I  followed  the  German  maid  down- 
 stairs into  the  Stone  Hall  on  the  basement 
 floor,  which  had  but  recently  served  as  the 
 dining  hall  of  the  little  slaves,  and  there,  to 
 my  disgust  and  astonishment,  I  beheld  the 
 little  slaves  bringing  in  the  same  carte  as  had 
 been  served  up  for  the  Viceregal  children.  I 
 stared  again  in  astonishment,  and  looking  at 
 the  maid  Clara,  I  found  that  she  had  seated 
 herself  at  the  table,  and  was  prepared  to  hob- 
 nob it  with  me. 
 
138 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 This  was  treatment  I  had  never  expected  to 
 receive.  However,  there  was  no  help  for  it,  and 
 as  neither  knife  nor  fork  had  been  provided  for 
 me,  I  was  obliged  to  accept  of  the  German's 
 offer  to  lend  me  those  indispensable  articles. 
 Fatigue,  disgust,  and  vexation  at  the  accom- 
 modation which  had  been  provided  for  me,  had 
 almost  taken  away  all  my  appetite  ;  but  at  the 
 sight  of  the  Arab  dishes  I  turned  quite  sick,  and 
 contented  myself  with  partaking  of  a  "  kebab  " 
 — some  bread,  a  little  fruit,  and  a  "zarf"  of 
 coffee — as  nothing  but  water  was  permitted  to 
 be  drank,  which  latter  I  found  exceedingly 
 acceptable.  I  hastily  retired  to  my  miserable 
 pallet  in  the  chamber  which  had  been  assigned 
 me, 
 
 I  can  scarcely  describe  my  feelings  when  I 
 was  alone,  being  at  that  time  totally  ignorant 
 of  the  apathy  and  absolute  indifference  with 
 which  the  Turks,  Arabs,  and  Egyptians  treat 
 all  Europeans  with  whom  they  come  into  con- 
 tact. I  was  at  a  loss  to  conceive  why  I  had 
 been  subjected  to  such  an  indignity.  The  posi- 
 tion I  occupied  about  the  Prince  ought  most 
 assuredly  to  have  saved  me  from  such  an  insult. 
 
REFLECTIONS. 
 
 139 
 
 I  had  inspected  H.  H.  the  Viceroys  pavilion 
 that  very  day ;  and  I  remembered  how  accu- 
 rately my  intelligent  fellow -travellers,  Mr.  Kenos 
 and  Mr.  Cohen,  had  described  what  would  in 
 all  probability  be  my  position  and  reception 
 in  this  Mansion  of  Discomfort.    I  had  seen 
 a  considerable  display  of  European  habits,  in 
 the  manner  in  which  his  own  private  retiring- 
 rooms  had  been  arranged — every  thing  be- 
 speaking that  His  Highness  was  thoroughly 
 Europeanized.    At  that  I  was  not  in  the  least 
 surprised,  for  I  knew  that  he  had  been  sent  to 
 France  in  18 40',  along  with  his  brother,  Achmet 
 Bey,  and  his  uncles,  Hassam  Bey  and  Halim 
 Bey,  and  this  made  me  more  annoyed,  as  I 
 was   confident  that  if  either  Messrs.  H.  or 
 Mr.  B.  had  merely  taken  the  precaution  they 
 could  easily  have  done,  to  let  the  good  old 
 German  housekeeper  enter  the  Harem  and  see 
 what  accommodation  had  been  provided  for 
 me,  that  kind  creature  would  have  taken  care 
 to  send  in  everything  there  for  my  conve- 
 nience ;  and  as  she  had  been  accustomed  to 
 wait  upon  ladies  in  her  own  country,  she  would 
 have  at  once  explained  to  her  countrywoman, 
 
140 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 the  laimdrymaid,  how  she  might  have  conducted 
 herself  towards  me. 
 
 But  no.  I  was  bundled  into  the  Harem  like 
 a  ball  of  merchandize,  and  left,  as  Mr.  C.  H/s 
 sister  explained  to  me  before  my  departure  from 
 England,  "  to  fight  my  own  battle," — no  diffi- 
 cult matter  among  such  a  semi-barbarous  set. 
 
 Now  I  was  perfectly  aware  that  I  should 
 have  to  vegetate  on  nothing  but  Arab  diet. 
 My  health  had  begun  to  give  way  beneath  the 
 effects  of  that  most  unpalatable  cuisine  when 
 at  the  banker  s,  and  I  was  quite  certain  that  it 
 would  be  utterly  impossible  for  me  to  keep 
 body  and  soul  together  with  such  nourish- 
 ment, wTith  only  water  and  coffee  as  drinkables. 
 It  was  really  unpardonable  and  unfeeling  in  the 
 extreme ;  there  was  no  excuse  to  be  made.  I 
 had  already  remonstrated  with  Mr.  B.  upon 
 the  subject  of  my  diet;  and  as  H.H.  the  Vice- 
 roy had  a  staff  of  French  cooks  and  attendants, 
 there  could  not  have  been  any  difficulty  or 
 objection  to  my  meals  being  prepared  by  them. 
 Of  this  His  Highness  s  civil  aid-de-camp  and 
 associate  in  commerce  was  fully  aware ;  but 
 
SUBSTITUTE  FOR  BED  LIXE^sT.  141 
 
 no — lie  was  a  Prussian,  and  as  '  he  hated  the 
 English,  what  had  I  to  expect  ? 
 
 The  entire  blame  must  be  attached  to  the 
 hasty  and  inconsiderate  manner  in  which  Mr. 
 C.  H.  overruled  Mr.  B.'s  objection,  who,  knowing 
 full  well  that  nothing  had  been  prepared  for 
 my  reception,  was  anxious  to  postpone  my  de- 
 parture from  his  hospitable  roof  until  my  apart- 
 ment had  been  properly  furnished.     To  such 
 straits  was  I  put  that  I  was  obliged  to  place 
 different  articles  of  body-linen  as  substitutes 
 for  bed-linen ;    fortunately,  however,   I  had 
 provided  myself  with  a  stock  of  Turkish  bath 
 towels.     My  room,  as  I  have  previously  ex- 
 plained, led  off  from  that  of  H.  H.  the  Grand 
 Pacha's.    I  had  scarcely  arranged  my  bed,  for 
 as  yet  not  a  slave  had  been  appointed  to  wait 
 upon  me,  when  I  heard  the  ponderous  bolts  and 
 bars  of  the  lower  doors  at  the  foot  of  the  marble 
 staircase  drawn  into  their  sockets,  and  the  huge 
 keys — for  they  are  no  less  than  nine  inches  in 
 length — turned  in  the  weighty  wards,  as  the 
 eunuchs  locked  the  doors,  let  fly  the  secret 
 springs,  and  then  retired  to  enjoy  their  pipes  in 
 their  own  apartments. 
 
142 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Those  grating  sounds  startled  me ;  I  could 
 not  for  an  instant  realize  my  position  ;  I  thought 
 I  must  be  the  inmate  of  some  prison  in  a  foreign 
 land,  and  not  a  guest  within  the  precincts 
 of  a  prince's  palace.  My  position  was  any 
 thing  but  enviable.  Although  I  was  conver- 
 sant with  several  continental  languages,  still, 
 strange  to  add,  not  any  of  the  Princesses,  ladies 
 of  the  Harem,  or  slaves,  could  speak  any  thing 
 but  Arabic  and  Turkish  ;  and  the  German  laun- 
 drymaid  had  only  just  began  to  pick  up  a  few 
 words  of  those  languages.  Well,  there  I  was, 
 among  a  crowd  of  nearly  one  hundred  women, 
 without  being  able  to  speak  a  word  of  their 
 language,  or  to  understand  what  they  said  to 
 me.  Then  did  I  experience  the  worst  of  all 
 loneliness, 
 
 "  Solitude  in  a  crowd." 
 
 So  that  when  I  found  myself  alone  in  my  own 
 chamber,  I  could  not  help  exclaiming, 
 
 "  Ah  !  why  did  Fate  my  steps  decoy 
 In  foreign  lands  to  roam 
 Remote  from  all  congenial  joy." 
 
 Wishing,  however,  to  divert  my  mind  as  much 
 as  possible,  I  resolved  to  keep  a  diary.   But  how 
 
A  DILEMMA. 
 
 143 
 
 was  that  to  be  accomplished,  since  I  had  no 
 table  in  my  chamber  upon  which  I  could  arrange 
 my  writing  materials  ?  The  top  of  my  French 
 chest  of  drawers  had  already  been  turned  into  a 
 toilet-table,  and  even  if  I  had  removed  my  dress- 
 ing-case and  all  the  appendages  thereon,  even 
 then  I  had  no  chair.  Thinking  that  the  slave 
 who  had  arranged  my  chamber  might,  in  the 
 hurry  of  the  moment,  have  forgotten  both  those 
 necessary  articles  of  furniture,  (as  I  had  seen 
 tables,  and  even  English  cane -bottom  chairs 
 in  the  apartments,)  I  resolved  to  appropriate 
 some  to  my  own  use,  but,  when  attempting 
 to  do  so,  I  was  point-blank  told  by  the  eunuchs 
 that  I  must  not  touch  or  take  any  thing  which 
 had  not  been  expressly  given  me.  Thus  I 
 was  checkmated,  and  powerless  even  to  move 
 a  chair  for  my  own  accommodation.  This  was 
 a  kind  of  domestic  tyranny  I  could  not  endure. 
 
 I  abandoned  the  idea  of  making  any  substi- 
 tutes for  them  the  first  night  •  but  finding 
 upon  enquiry  that  I  was  not  to  be  provided 
 with  either,  I  had  no  alternative  but  to  tax  my 
 ingenuity. 
 
 So,  placing  two  of  my  largest  square  trunks 
 
144 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 upon  one  another,  for  a  table,  which  I  covered 
 with  my  travelling-rug,  and  for  a  chair  lay- 
 ing my  travelling- cloak  upon  another  box, 
 and  turning  a  larger  one  upright,  I  placed  it 
 at  the  back,  which  gave  me  a  support  for  my 
 back ;  and  thus  did  I  begin  to  dot  down  these 
 incidents  of  my  experience  of  Harem  life  in 
 Egypt 
 
THE  PRINCESS'S  ARRANGEMENT.  145 
 
 CHAPTER  IX. 
 
 The  following  day  I  was  informed  by  the 
 German  laundrymaid  that  I  was  expected  to 
 clean  my  own  room,  and  wash  my  own  linen, 
 both  of  which  I  resolutely  refused  to  do.  Upon 
 which  H.H.  the  Princess  Epouse  ordered  a 
 slave  to  arrange  my  apartment,  and  the  Greek 
 slave,  Spiraki,  to  find  a  laundress  at  Cairo, 
 as  none  of  the  slaves  would  wash  the  linen 
 of  an  unbeliever  ;  and  it  was  with  the  greatest 
 reluctance  that  any  of  the  youngest  slaves  could 
 be  forced  to  act  as,  what  is  termed  in  the  caste 
 phraseology  of  India,  the  Muhtur,  "sweeper," 
 to  empty  slops,  &c. 
 
 After  these  arrangements  had  been  made,  I 
 had  a  most  excellent  opportunity  of  making 
 myself  au  fait  with  domestic  life  in  the  Harem, 
 and  so,  as  the  poet  Heywood  pens, 
 
 VOL.  I.  l 
 
146 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 "  To  give  content  to  this  most  curious  age, 
 The  Odalisques  themselves  I've  brought  down  to  the  stage, 
 And  figured  them  on  paper  ;  made  even  the  Harem 
 Deliver  up  its  houris,  by  no  charm 
 Saving  the  Muse's  rapture  ;  further  I 
 Have  trafficked  by  their  help  ;  no  corner 
 I  have  left  unrifled  ;  my  pen  has  been  dipt 
 As  well  in  opening  each  hid  manuscript 
 As  traits  more  vulgar,  whether  read  or  sung 
 In  our  domestic  or  more  foreign  tongue." 
 
 Well,  at  five  o'clock  the  next  morning,  the 
 eunuchs,  who  carry  their  bunch  of  keys  about 
 with  them  like  the  warders  of  an  English  prison, 
 came  round  and  unlocked  all  the  doors  of  the 
 outer  rooms  leading  to  the  grand  and  back 
 staircases.  Then  they  called  up  all  the  slaves 
 and  the  ladies  of  the  Harem.  The  former,  as 
 soon  as  they  were  dressed  (pardon  me,  kind 
 reader,  but  I  err  in  using  that  expression, 
 for  all  Turkish  and  Egyptian  women,  as  well 
 as  their  slaves,  never  undress,  but  lie  down  with 
 their  clothes  on,  though  they  often  change 
 them  in  the  daytime),  took  up  and  rolled  their 
 beds  which  they  carried  into  the  bed  store- 
 room, and  there  piled  them  up  in  a  corner, 
 as  I  have  previously  described.  Then  they 
 proceeded  to  sweep  the  rooms,  each  using  the 
 
MODE  OF  WASHING  THE  PRINCE.  147 
 
 set  of  brooms  and  dust -pans  which  had  been 
 assigned  her. 
 
 After  this  portion  of  the  household  work  had 
 been  performed,  the  members  of  the  Viceregal 
 family  were  called,  and  the  nurses  began  to 
 dress  the  children.  The  head  nurse,  Shaytan, 
 lifted  the  Prince  out  of  his  bed,  sat  him  down 
 upon  the  side,  having  previously  had  the  mos- 
 quito-curtain looped  up  to  the  rings  attached 
 to  the  walls,  tucked  up  his  'pyjamas  as  far  as 
 his  knees,  then  water  was  poured  over  a  piece 
 of  rag,  placed  in  a  deep  silver  dish,  with 
 which  she  soaped  and  washed  his  legs  and 
 feet.  On  each  of  the  calves  of  his  little 
 legs  there  were  nine  incisions  just  above  the 
 top  of  the  sock,  some  cabalistic  superstition 
 that  I  never  had  explained  to  me,  but  perhaps 
 it  was  that  he  was  considered  as  eligible  for  the 
 ninth  heaven,  as  Rtickert,  the  Orientalist,  has 
 described  as  many.  Then  she  removed  his 
 drawers,  and  began  by  putting  on  his  stock- 
 ings, then  his  boots,  after  which  she  washed 
 his  hands  and  face  (his  arms  and  neck 
 never  being  touched),  and  his  flannel  shirt  was 
 removed. 
 
 L  2 
 
148 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Around  his  neck  he  wore,  first,  a  thin  black 
 cord,  to  which  was  attached  a  small  black  silk 
 pad,  which  lay  upon  his  abdomen,  that  is  never 
 removed  from  off  his  person ;  then  another  one, 
 on  which  were  strung  six  black,  carved  cypress 
 wooden  acorns,  which  are  supposed  to  be  a 
 teleam,  "talisman,"  to  keep  evil  spirits  away 
 from  his  august  person.  Then  his  flannel  vest 
 was  put  on  him  ;  after  that  a  thin  net  one,  then 
 a  linen  shirt,  all  the  ends  of  which  were  tucked 
 inside  his  trousers  ;  after  which  his  coat  was 
 put  on. 
 
 Around  his  neck  he  wore  a  small  ribbon  tie, 
 and  across  his  shoulders  a  silver-gilt  chain, 
 attached  to  which  hung  a  small  square  silver 
 box,  about  an  inch  thick,  having  a  sliding  lid, 
 in  which  is  inclosed  a  little  cypress-wood  box, 
 containing  verses  of  the  Koran,  and  pieces  of 
 the  coffin  of  the  prophet  Mahomet.  The  box 
 is  elegantly  chased  with  palm-leaves,  elephants, 
 and  numerous  other  animals. 
 
 His  head  was  washed  with  perfumed  water, 
 and  his  fez  placed  on  it ;  in  the  tassel  of  which 
 is  fastened  a  small  thin  black  silk  cushion,  or 
 bag,  containing  some  grains  of  a  black  seed, 
 
THE  PRINCE'S  VAGARIES. 
 
 149 
 
 which  are  said  to  possess  the  power  of  warding 
 off  fits ;  also  a  piece  of  pink  coral,  shaped  like 
 a  shell,  which  is  worn  to  preserve  his  Highness 
 from  attacks  of  ophthalmia.  At  the  top  of 
 the  tassel  is  sown  a  large  turquoise,  to  guard 
 him  from  all  accidents. 
 
 The  other  nurses  then  proceeded  to  dress  the 
 young  Princesses,  who  had  narrow  plaifk  of 
 hair  in  front.  They  all  wore  the  same  charms, 
 except  the  coral,  black  bag,  and  turquoise. 
 
 Their  beds  were  then  rolled  up,  removed  into 
 the  bed  store-room,  and  the  Eeception  Hall 
 "  swept  and  garnished."  Then  one  of  the 
 eunuchs  brought  in  a  cotton  sack,  or  bag,  con- 
 taining symmets,  "buns  made  in  the  shape  of 
 rings,  about  the  circumference  of  a  tea-saucer/' 
 which  H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha  counted,  and 
 allotted  out  a  certain  number  to  each  of  the 
 little  Princesses  for  their  two  daily  meals, 
 breakfast  and  supper. 
 
 If  any  had  been  purloined,  or  a  mistake 
 made  in  the  counting  of  them,  His  Highness 
 invariably  bundled  them  all  into  the  sack, 
 made  the  eunuch  take  it  away  and  return 
 with  the  proper  number ;  and  until  that  was 
 
150 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 done,  the  Prince  stormed  and  raved  like  a 
 maniac.  It  was  utterly  impossible  to  pacify 
 him. 
 
 If,  however,  I  happened  to  jest  with  him,  by 
 secreting  one  or  two  of  the  buns,  he  would 
 then  calmly  and  quietly  continue  his  distribu- 
 tion of  them,  without  uttering  a  word  of  com- 
 plaint. As  soon  as  all  the  Viceregal  children 
 had  assembled  in  the  saloon,  the  brazier  filled 
 with  live  charcoal  was  brought  in,  and  the 
 same  process  gone  through  as  had  been  prac- 
 tised the  previous  night  when  they  retired  to 
 rest. 
 
 As  the  kitchen  is  situated  at  some  distance 
 from  the  Harem,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Sugar 
 Refinery,  the  dishes  are  all  placed  upon  a  large 
 wooden  tray,  and  covered  over  with  thick 
 white  cloths,  carried  on  men's  heads  into  the 
 small  garden  which  separates  the  Harem  from 
 H.  H.  the  Grand  Pasha  Ibrahim's  suite  of 
 apartments ;  there  they  are  laid  down  upon  the 
 path,  and  the  shrill  cry  of  the  eunuchs  ex- 
 claiming, Dustoor !  Dustoor !  "  Out  of  the  way  ! 
 Out  of  the  way!"  resounds  from  all  quarters. 
 
 Then  the  slaves  begin  to  run  into  their  rooms ; 
 
THE  SLAVES  PURLOINING.  151 
 
 but  should  any  of  them  linger  about,  then  the 
 cry  of  Allah  !  Allah !  "  God  !  God  !"  is  shouted 
 forth  in  stentorian  tones,  and  the  courbache, 
 "whip  made  of  bullock's  hide,"  falls  heavily 
 upon  their  shoulders. 
 
 After  the  men  have  placed  the  trays  down, 
 and  disappeared,  then  commences  one  of  the 
 most  ludicrous  scenes  imaginable ;  for,  as  I 
 have  previously  explained,  no  regular  meals  are 
 provided  for  the  slaves,  or,  in  fact,  anybody  else 
 but  the  Viceregal  family.  They  are  necessarily 
 obliged  to  purloin  whatever  they  can  lay  their 
 hands  upon  before  the  dishes  are  served  up  to 
 their  Highnesses  the  Princesses,  or  the  Grand 
 Pacha  Ibrahim;  hence  they  are  accustomed, 
 like  hungry  wolves,  to  rush  down  into  the 
 garden,  and  make  a  selection  of  what  dishes 
 they  can,  without  fear  of  detection,  and  with- 
 hold them  from  the  Viceregal  repast. 
 
 It  not  unfrequently  happened  that  H.  H.  the 
 Princess  Epouse  would  enter  the  Stone  Hall, 
 while  the  slaves  were  enjoying  their  purloining; 
 then  the  cups,  saucers,  and  gold  spoons  would 
 be  thrust  into  a  pail,  which  a  slave,  who  was 
 always  kept  on  the  qui  vive,  and  acted  as 
 
152 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 sentinel,  would  whisk  out  of  the  room  as  if  by 
 magic.  At  other  times  Shaytan,  the  head 
 nurse,  would  be  squatted  very  comfortably  on 
 the  floor  of  H.H.  the  Grand  Pacha's  apartment, 
 with  a  large  flat  patty,  about  twice  the  size  of 
 a  Cheshire  cheese,  composed  of  vermicelli,  fat, 
 cheese,  sugar,  and  spice — a  most  favourite  dish 
 in  the  Harem — which  she  had  stolen  off  His 
 Highness's  tray,  together  with  several  large 
 glass  dishes  full  of  strawberries,  cherries,  green- 
 gages, apples,  pears,  oranges,  and  lemons,  all 
 piled  up  like  pyramids ;  also  a  dish  of  powdered 
 sugar.  The  latter  she  generally  hid  away  until 
 night,  but  the  former  being  hot,  she  usually 
 began  to  partake  of  as  soon  as  she  had 
 purloined  it. 
 
 Sometimes  H.  H.  the  Princess  would  enter 
 the  room  softly,  and  then  the  vermicelli  pasty 
 was  pushed  away  under  the  divan  out  of  sight ; 
 and  in  that  case  it  frequently  happened  that 
 another  slave  carried  it  off  and  consumed  it. 
 
 Whenever  the  Princess  caught  any  of  them 
 purloining  the  viands,  she  boxed  their  ears 
 most  soundly,  and  made  them  carry  the  dishes 
 back  again. 
 
THE  CHILDREN'S  BREAKFAST.  153 
 
 I  cannot  refrain  from  bearing  testimony  to 
 their  kindness  and  attention  towards  myself, 
 as  they  invariably  called  me  to  go  downstairs, 
 and  select  my  own  dishes  prior  to  any  being 
 served  up  to  their  Highnesses  the  Princesses ; 
 and  this  spontaneous  act  of  their  good  will  and 
 sympathy  towards  me  was  not  caused  by  any 
 backsheesh  that  I  had  been  in  the  habit  of  dis- 
 tributing among  them,  for  I  never  gave  them 
 any,  having  been  requested  by  my  Princess  not 
 to  propitiate  them  in  that  manner.  It  was 
 their  own  attention  towards  me,  and  I  always 
 felt  grateful  to  them  for  it,  and  never  failed  to 
 grant  them  any  little  indulgence  they  required 
 at  my  hands,  or  to  do  them  a  service  in  return. 
 
 The  children's  morning  toilet  being  finished, 
 the  little  slaves  brought  in  the  "soofra"  which 
 they  covered  with  a  yellow  satin  cover,  be- 
 spangled with  silver  crescents.  On  it  they 
 placed  a  round  rimmed  green  painted  tray,  upon 
 which  they  laid  a  white  china  soup-tureen  of 
 boiled  milk,  into  which  was  put  pieces  of  Arab 
 bread. 
 
 Each  child  dipped  its  spoon  into  it,  and 
 helped  herself ;  but  if  any  one  of  them  should 
 
154 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 so  far  forget  herself  as  to  place  her  spoon  in  the 
 tureen  before  H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha  had  helped 
 himself,  by  taking  the  first  spoonful,  then  His 
 Highness  would  cast,  nay,  throw  his  spoon  into 
 the  tureen,  as  well  as  those  of  all  the  Princesses, 
 and  order  the  slaves  to  remove  it  away  in- 
 stanter.  Child  as  he  was,  his  word  was  law, 
 and  nobody  dared  disobey  him. 
 
 The  next  course  consisted  of  a  small  tureen 
 containing  a  pigeon  served  up  swimming  in 
 soup  thickened  with  rice  and  flour;  each  one 
 of  the  family  party  helped  themselves  to  a 
 spoonful  of  it.  Then  the  head  nurse  took  the 
 pigeon  in  her  fingers,  tore  it  to  pieces,  and 
 then  commenced  a  regular  battle,  as  each  of  the 
 children  desired  to  have  a  leg,  which  ended  on 
 the  morning  in  question,  as  was  generally  the 
 case,  in  the  separated  bird  making  its  exit  with- 
 out being  touched.  H.H.  the  Grand  Pacha 
 never  partook  of  this  dish,  why  or  wherefore  I 
 was  unable  to  learn. 
 
 Then  followed  a  dish  of  mutton-chops,  broiled 
 quite  dry,  but  highly  spiced ;  afterwards  some 
 pigeons  cooked  in  a  similar  manner,  minus  the 
 spice.    Each  child  took  up  a  pigeon  in  her 
 
THE  GOVERNESS'S  BREAKFAST.  155 
 
 fingers,  tore  it  to  pieces,  and  ate  whatever  part 
 she  fancied.  A  salad,  consisting  of  cucumber 
 cut  into  slices  and  dressed  with  water  and  oil 
 (for  vinegar  they  never  used),  was  then  served 
 up.  Then  followed  a  glass  dish  filled  with 
 jam  ;  fried,  greasy,  pastry-like  pancakes,  lite- 
 rally swimming  in  fat  and  honey,  and  this 
 completed  the  carte.  The  usual  ablution  fol- 
 lowed as  previously  described  as  having  taken 
 place  after  His  Highnesses  supper. 
 
 I  lost  no  time  in  remonstrating  with  H.  H.  the 
 Princess  Epouse  upon  the  impropriety  of  being 
 obliged  to  take  my  meals  with  the  German 
 maid,  and  although  unacquainted  with  her 
 vernacular,  still  I  managed  to  make  Her  High- 
 ness sensible  that  it  was  a  degradation  to  me. 
 Accordingly  my  breakfast  was  served  up  to  me 
 in  my  own  room.  It  consisted  of  a  cup  of 
 coffee,  a  small  tureen  of  boiled  milk,  sweetened 
 almost  to  a  syrup,  and  a  roll  of  European 
 bread,  but  without  any  butter  or  eggs,  of  neither 
 of  which  did  I  ever  partake  during  my  resi- 
 dence in  the  Harems.  After  I  had  partaken 
 of  that  refreshment,  I  dressed,  and  proceeded, 
 accompanied  by  my  pupil,  into  the  Harem. 
 
1.36 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 H.H.  the  Grand  Pacha,  according  to  his 
 usual  custom,  went  to  visit  their  Highnesses, 
 the  three  wives,  in  their  bedchambers.  He  first 
 walked  into  the  apartment  of  Her  Highness  the 
 Lady  Paramount  (the  first  wife),  who  takes 
 precedence  of  all,  and  without  whose  orders 
 none  of  the  other  wives  can  interfere  in  the 
 general  internal  arrangements  of  the  Harem, 
 save  and  except  in  their  own  apartments,  and 
 over  their  own  slaves  and  families,  with  whom 
 they  act  as  they  please.  Her  name  was  Ipsah ; 
 she  was  tall,  stout,  had  a  pleasing  mouth, 
 sinister  expression  of  countenance,  large  blue 
 eyes,  but  possessed  a  most  violent  temper; 
 cruelty  seemed  to  be  marked  in  every  linea- 
 ment of  her  features. 
 
 When  we  entered  she  was  dressing  her  hair. 
 One  slave  held  a  looking-glass  in  her  hand, 
 another  Her  Highness's  toilette-tray  with  its 
 appendages,  and  a  third  stood  by  to  hand  her 
 whatever  she  might  require.  She  was  not,  as 
 was  her  usual  custom,  squatted  like  a  clasped 
 knife,  but  sat  on  a  cotton-covered  divan,  attired 
 in  a  dirty,  crumpled,  muslin  wrapper,  which 
 had  served  her  as  her  night  habiliments.  Her 
 
THE  PASHA'S  THIRD  WIFE. 
 
 157 
 
 feet  and  legs  were  both  stocking  and  shoeless, 
 and  huDg  down  from  the  divan. 
 
 The  Prince  drew  near  to  her,  took  hold  of  her 
 right  hand,  which  was  jewelless,  as  also  were 
 her  ears ;  for  none  of  their  Highnesses  ever 
 wore  jewels  except  on  grand  occasions.  He 
 pressed  her  hand  to  his  lips  and  forehead,  then 
 salaamed  her,  after  which  both  of  us  left  the 
 room. 
 
 On  reaching  the  chamber  of  H.H.  the  Prin- 
 cess Epouse  (his  mother),  the  Prince  mounted 
 the  divan,  saluted,  as  he  had  done  the  first 
 wife,  and  then  insisted  upon  having  a  cup  of 
 coffee.  As  soon  as  he  had  partaken  of  it, 
 he  asked  the  Princess  to  give  him  backsJieesh, 
 when  she  handed  him  a  large  packet  of  silver 
 piastres,  each  valued  at  twopence  halfpenny. 
 His  mother  took  him  on  her  lap,  made  a  few 
 inquiries  of  him  in  Turkish,  which  I  did  not 
 understand,  and  asked  him  to  go  and  fetch 
 her  a  cigarette.  Then  we  passed  on  into  the 
 chamber  of  the  third  wife,  who  is  childless,  but 
 who  has  adopted  a  slave  as  her  daughter, 
 whom  H.H.  the  Grand  Pacha,  on  his  visit  to 
 Constantinople  two  years  ago,  purchased  for 
 
158 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 her.  It  was  then  nine  o'clock,  so  making  our 
 salaams,  we  proceeded  into  the  gardens. 
 
 We  had  not  walked  far,  before  the  Prince 
 espied  one  of  the  Arab  gardeners,  whom  he 
 requested  to  make  him  a  bouquet.  Three  of 
 the  under  gardeners  rushed  off  immediately  to 
 cull  some  flowers,  but  as  they  were,  according 
 to  His  Highness's  idea,  too  dilatory  (for  like  all 
 Turks,  whenever  they  require  a  thing,  it  must 
 be  brought  to  or  done  for  them  instantly),  the 
 little  Prince  put  himself  into  a  most  violent 
 passion.  At  length  the  head  gardener  came 
 forward  and  presented  him  with  the  bouquet. 
 His  Highness  scarcely  deigned  to  look  at  it; 
 threw  it  on  the  ground,  stamped  his  little  feet 
 upon  it,  and  then,  in  the  paroxysm  of  his 
 passion,  after  a  slave  had  picked  it  up  and 
 handed  it  to  him,  he  deliberately  amused  him- 
 self by  tearing  it  to  pieces.  While  thus  giving 
 vent  to  his  anger,  he  kept  scolding  the  gar- 
 deners for  not  having  assorted  the  colours  in  a 
 proper  manner. 
 
 Turning  round  to  the  eunuchs  who  had  ac- 
 companied the  attendants,  he  ordered  them, 
 then  and  there,  to  cut  sticks  from  off  one  of 
 
SCENE  IN  THE  GARDEN.  159 
 
 the  trees,  and  to  give  the  three  gardeners  a 
 thrashing.  Those  spectres  of  men  obeyed  His 
 Highnesss  instructions,  and  the  three  Arabs 
 were  laid  down  upon  the  path  by  some  black 
 slaves,  and  the  eunuchs  set  to  beating  them. 
 This  they  continued  doing  for  some  time ; 
 but  as  the  Prince  made  no  sign  to  them  to 
 discontinue  the  chastisement,  I  began  to  re- 
 monstrate with  him  at  such  a  display  of  his 
 ungovernable  temper,  and  in  an  authoritative 
 tone  exclaimed  Bess!  Bess !  "Enough!  enough  !" 
 when  the  eunuchs  ceased.  The  morning  was 
 extremely  sultry,  and  the  perspiration  poured 
 down  the  faces  of  the  eunuchs. 
 
 This  incident  clearly  showed  me  that  the 
 little  Prince  possessed 
 
 "  A  tiger's  heart  wrapt  in  an  infant's  breast," 
 
 and  gave  me  an  insight  into  his  character, 
 which  was  evidently  as  cruel,  overbearing,  and 
 brutal,  as  that  of  his  grandfather,  Ibrahim 
 Pacha,  whose  private  life  was  disgraced  by 
 the  most  revolting  crimes  and  barbarous  pas- 
 times ;  but  I  had  satisfactory  evidence,  by  his 
 conduct  in  the  pavilion,  that  he  did  not  inherit 
 
160 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 that  courage  which  obtained  his  grandfather 
 such  renown. 
 
 On  our  return  to  the  Harem  a  novel  scene 
 presented  itself  in  the  noble  Audience  Hall. 
 On  the  divan  sat  their  Highnesses  the  Prin- 
 cesses, the  Viceroy's  three  wives.  They  were 
 elegantly  attired  in  beautiful  new  muslin 
 dresses,  and  very  full  trousers  of  the  same 
 material,  with  quilted  satin  jackets,  of  gaudy 
 colours.  Their  heads  were  ornamented  with 
 large  diamond  pins ;  and  all  rose  up  from  off 
 their  seats  as  a  middle-sized  gentleman,  in  a 
 dressing-gown  and  slippers  d  la  Turque,  en- 
 tered the  room,  holding  a  white  pocket-hand- 
 kerchief in  his  hand,  which  was  so  large  that 
 I  mistook  it  for  a  towel. 
 
 The  Princesses  formed  a  kind  of  semicircle 
 round  him ;  all  salaamed  him,  to  which  he 
 responded  by  an  affable  smile,  patted  the  Grand 
 Pacha  on  the  cheek,  and  passed  through  with* 
 out  uttering  a  syllable.  I  followed  the  example 
 set  me  by  the  Princesses,  curtseyed  to  him, 
 which  salutation  he  returned  by  bowing. 
 
 As  I  had  not  yet  been  introduced  to  His 
 Highness,  Ismael  Pacha,  the  Viceroy,  I  inno- 
 
CHILDISH  BRUTALITY. 
 
 161 
 
 cently  enough  considered  that  this  gentleman 
 must  be  the  Viceregal  barber. 
 
 The  little  Prince  partook  of  his  breakfast  as 
 usual  at  twelve  o'clock,  after  which  he  amused 
 himself  by  playing  about  the  room  with  some 
 of  the  English  toys  which  I  had  presented  to 
 him. 
 
 Whilst  engaged  in  that  occupation,  one  of 
 the  female  slaves,  whom  I  afterwards  found 
 was  his  half-sister,  that  is,  the  Viceroy's 
 daughter  by  a  slave  (for  his  staff  was  composed 
 of  little  girls  and  boys),  offended  him.  He 
 immediately  seized  hold  of  her  by  both  her 
 arms,  pinched  them  most  violently,  and  like  a 
 tiger  bit  them  until  he  drew  blood,  after  which 
 he  put  his  fingers  into  the  poor  little  creature's 
 mouth,  and  tore  both  sides  of  it,  until  the  blood 
 streamed  down  her  chin  like  water.  I  scolded 
 him  well  for  such  brutality,  when  His  Highness 
 burst  into  tears,  and  walked  away  into  another 
 apartment. 
 
 Scarcely  had  the  little  Prince  proceeded  a 
 few  paces,  when  he  was  met  by  H.H.  the 
 Princess  Epouse,  who  inquired  the  cause  of 
 his  grief,  as  it  appears  that  all  Turkish  and 
 
 VOL.  L  M 
 
162 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Egyptians  have  a  perfect  horror  of  seeing  any 
 person  in  tears. 
 
 The  facts  were  explained  to  Her  Highness, 
 who  made  the  poor  little  slave  who  had  been 
 so  barbarously  treated  by  her  son,  first  kiss  the 
 skirts  of  his  coat,  and  then  the  carpet.  But 
 when  I  pointed  out  to  Her  Highness  that  the 
 slave  was  not  to  blame,  the  Princess  merely 
 laughed,  exclaiming,  "  Malesch,  Madame,"  "  it 
 does  not  matter."  Then  the  Prince  became 
 pacified,  and  resumed  his  amusements.  Soon 
 afterwards  a  middle-aged  woman  named  Khoda, 
 the  mother  of  the  Harem,  who  was  about 
 fifty  years  of  age,  entered  the  apartment, 
 accompanied  by  four  women  much  older  than 
 herself. 
 
 This  important  personage,  who  acts  as  mid- 
 wife, doctor,  friend,  and  counsellor,  is  present 
 in  the  bridal-chamber  when  any  of  His  High- 
 nesses daughters  or  slaves  are  married.  She 
 is  one  of  the  most  powerful  and  influentia1 
 of  the  whole  of  the  inmates  of  the  Harem. 
 To  her  is  confided  all  the  political  changes 
 which  are  hatched  within  its  walls ;  for  it  is 
 the  very  focus  of  intrigue ;  as  it  is  but  natural 
 
VISIT  OF  RHODA. 
 
 163 
 
 to  suppose  that  their  Highnesses  the  Vice- 
 roys, when  enjoying  their  dolce  far  niente, 
 throw  off  all  restraint,  and  chatter  away  as 
 much  as  Turks  are  ever  prone  to  clo,  (and 
 that  is  never  very  much,)  to  their  wives,  as 
 to  the  sayings  and  doings  of  their  ministers, 
 associates  in  commerce,  and  favourites.  But 
 Ismael  Pacha  places  his  trust  in  and  confides 
 his  secrets  to  the  care  of  the  Princess  Valide,  his 
 august  mother,  the  clever  intriguing  widow  of 
 that  singular  Prince  the  late  Ibrahim  Pacha. 
 Still,  all  the  Princesses  belonging  to  the  other 
 members  of  the  Viceregal  family  of  Egypt,  both 
 widows,  wives,  and  daughters,  pay  occasional 
 visits  to  their  Highnesses  the  three  wives,  with 
 whom  they  generally  pass  the  day ;  and  their 
 conversation,  brief  and  curt  though  it  be, 
 naturally  turns  upon  the  plans  and  actions  of 
 their  liege  lords,  and  then  the  Harem  becomes 
 the  arena  of 
 
 "  That  vermin  slander,  bred  in  abject  minds, 
 Of  thoughts  impure,  by  vile  tongues  animate, 
 Canker  of  conversation." 
 
 She  was  attired  in  white  linen,  was  inclined  to 
 M  2 
 
164 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 embonpoint,  of  agreeable  countenance,  and 
 short  nose  retrousse.  She  inquired  of  me  in 
 Arabic  whether  I  spoke  Italian,  and  receiving  a 
 reply  in  the  affirmative,  she  then  asked  if  I 
 were  married  ?  how  long  I  had  been  so  ? 
 where  I  had  lived  ?  what  my  parents  were  ? 
 and  a  number  of  other  commonplace  ques- 
 tions. Having  satisfied  her  queries,  she  asked 
 me  to  have  the  kindness  to  show  her  my 
 wardrobe. 
 
 Conducting  her  into  my  room,  into  which  I 
 was  followed  by  a  whole  bevy  of  white  and 
 black  slaves,  I  placed  in  her  hands  several 
 articles  of  wearing  apparel,  such  as  dresses, 
 bonnets,  hats,  &c.  She  passed  them  over 
 to  the  slaves,  and  coolly  walked  off  with  them 
 into  the  Eeception  Hall,  and  there  exhibited 
 them  to  H.H.  the  Princess  Epouse,  who  ad- 
 mired them,  and  seemed  particularly  pleased 
 with  the  hats  and  bonnets,  all  of  which  she 
 requested  me  to  put  on,  so  that  Her  Highness 
 might  see  how  they  became  me. 
 
 After  she  had  amused  herself  in  that  manner, 
 the  Princess  retired  to  her  chamber  to  take  her 
 siesta.     I  then  went  down  into  the  Stone 
 
MORE  ANNOYANCE. 
 
 165 
 
 Hall,  where  I  partook  of  what  was  to  me  my 
 luncheon,  and  was  again  subjected  to  the 
 mortification  of  having  the  German  laundry- 
 maid  as  my  companion,  notwithstanding  that 
 I  had  already  complained  to  Her  Highness  of 
 such  treatment. 
 
166 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 CHAPTER  X. 
 
 His  Highness  the  Grand  Pacha  partook  of 
 his  supper  at  half-past  five,  after  which  we 
 again  promenaded  in  the  gardens  until  half- 
 past  seven,  when  I  took  him  in,  and  handed 
 His  Highness  over  to  the  care  of  the  head- 
 nurse.  Then  I  retired  to  my  own  chamber, 
 changed  my  dress,  and  descended  into  the 
 Stone  Hall  to  partake  of  my  dinner,  which  was 
 similar  to  that  which  had  been  served  up  to 
 me  on  the  first  day  of  my  entrance  into  the 
 Harem,  and  so  it  continued  till  the  day  of  my 
 quitting  H.H.  the  Viceroy's  service. 
 
 While  I  was  sipping  my  coffee,  the  little 
 slave  who  had  been  appointed  to  wait  upon 
 me  let  the  china  vase  containing  the  sherbet 
 fall,  and  broke  it  to  pieces.  It  was  imme- 
 diately replaced  by  another,  which  was  handed 
 
CRUEL  PUNISHMENT. 
 
 167 
 
 me  by  an  elder  slave.  Upon  making  inquiry 
 of  the  head-nurse,  who  happened  at  that 
 moment  to  enter  the  room,  what  had  become 
 of  Kaduyah,  for  that  was  the  name  of  the 
 slave  who  had  broken  the  elegant  china  vase, 
 she  told  me  that  I  should  not  see  her  again 
 for  some  days,  as  she  had  just  undergone 
 the  usual  punishment  always  inflicted  upon  all 
 slaves  who  broke  anything. 
 
 Eeader,  will  you  credit  it— the  poor  creature 
 had  actually  been  seared  on  her  arms  with  a 
 red-hot  iron !  And  then  Shaytan  went  on  to 
 explain  to  me  that  all  the  black  slaves  in  the 
 Harem  bore  their  characters  about  them. 
 
 I  had  previously  observed  that  there  was 
 not  a  siugle  one  who  had  not  undergone  that 
 punishment ;  and,  in  short,  many  of  their  arms 
 were  literally  covered  with  scars  arising  from 
 such  brutal  treatment.  All  the  black  slaves 
 were  marked  with  three  scars  on  their  faces. 
 The  Viceregal  brand  being  three  marks  distin- 
 guished them  from  those  of  private  individuals, 
 who  were  only  marked  with  two  scars.  Singular 
 to  add,  not  any  of  the  nurses  were  branded. 
 
 Just  as  I  had  risen  from  the  deal  table,  a 
 
168 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 young  Arab  woman  entered  the  room  ;  she  was 
 dressed  in  coloured  muslin,  wore  a  red  gauze 
 handkerchief  wrapped  round  her  head  ;  beautiful 
 diamond  earrings  hung  from  her  ears,  a  hand- 
 some gold  hunting- watch  suspended  from  her 
 neck  by  a  thick  massive  gold  chain,  having 
 also  a  rich  Albert  chain  attached  thereto,  was 
 tucked  into  her  waistband.  Her  fingers  were 
 covered  with  superb  diamond  rings,  the  value 
 of  which  would  have  been  almost  a  fortune  to 
 any  European  lady. 
 
 She  was  the  Prince's  Dadu-nina,  wet-nurse, 
 who  had  come  to  pay  her  respects  to  me.  She 
 remained  but  a  very  few  minutes,  asked  several 
 trivial  questions,  told  me  that  she  was  married, 
 that  her  husband  lived  at  Cairo,  that  she  was 
 about  to  leave  the  service  of  the  Viceroy  to 
 return  to  her  home. 
 
 I  was  just  on  the  point  of  entering  my 
 chamber,  when  Ehoda,  the  mother  of  the  Harem, 
 met  me,  and  led  me  into  the  saloon  occupied 
 by  the  ladies  of  the  Harem.  There  were  about 
 six  or  seven  of  them  attired  in  different  coloured 
 muslins,  sitting,  a  la  Turque,  on  cushions  on 
 the  floor,  which  was  covered  with  a  rich  Brus- 
 
INCIDENT  OF  TURKISH  LIFE. 
 
 169 
 
 sels  carpet,  playing  at  dominoes,  their  most 
 favourite  pastime  ;  others  were  amusing  them- 
 selves smoking  cigarettes,  and  listening  to  the 
 tales  which  each  in  their  turn  had  been  re- 
 lating. 
 
 One  of  them,  named  Emina,  rose  from  her 
 seat  and  offered  me  a  cigarette,  which,  however, 
 I  declined  with  thanks  ;  and,  knowing  full  well 
 that  I  never  smoked,  she  did  not  feel  in  the 
 slightest  degree  offended  at  my  breach  of  Turkish 
 etiquette,  but  returned  to  her  cushion. 
 
 As  soon  as  I  had  seated  myself  in  the  divan, 
 Rhoda  related  the  following  incident  of  the 
 manner  in  which  marriages  are  frequently 
 arranged  in  Turkey  : — 
 
 "Some  years  ago,  on  one  occasion,"  began 
 the  mistress  of  the  Harem,  "when  I  accom- 
 panied H.  H.  the  Princess  the  Lady  Paramount 
 to  Constantinople,  I  became  acquainted  with  a 
 Turkish  family,  who  had  an  only  daughter, 
 named  Sarata.  She  had  just  turned  eleven ; 
 had  been  affianced  when  in  her  fifth  year  to  a 
 young  man  of  the  name  of  Rescind,  who  was 
 then  about  sixteen,  and  to  whom  she  was  on 
 the  point  of  being  united. 
 
170 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 "  Eeschid  had  never  seen  her  since  they  were 
 children  together ;  so  that  he  had  no  recol- 
 lection of  her  features.  Sarata  had  also  lost  all 
 idea  of  the  photograph  of  her  betrothed.  She 
 therefore  entreated  her  mother  to  allow  her  to 
 have  an  opportunity  of  seeing  him  before  the 
 marriage  took  place. 
 
 "The  old  lady,  who  was  a  very  indulgent 
 parent,  so  arranged  it,  that  one  day,  when 
 Eeschid  was  paying  a  visit  to  the  father,  that 
 Sarata  should  conceal  herself  behind  a  macha- 
 rabieh,  and  thus  she  obtained  a  full  view 
 of  her  future  husband's  features.  Curiosity 
 prompted  her  to  remain  some  time  in  her 
 hiding-place ;  and  she  heard  her  father  say,  in 
 reply  to  a  question  that  Eeschid  had  put  to 
 him,  respecting  the  day  on  which  they  were  to 
 be  married,  '  Quail  im  9  ('  I  give  my  sanction 
 and  the  day  was  named. 
 
 "  It  now  only  wanted  about  eight  days  to 
 the  period  when  Sarata,  who  was  then  called 
 Kutchuk  Hanem  (miss,  or  little  lady),  would 
 be  addressed  by  the  long-coveted  title  of 
 Bruich  Hanem  (mistress,  or  great  lady). 
 
 "  Singular  to  add,  Eeschid  also  expressed  to 
 
THE  HEBREW  SPY. 
 
 171 
 
 his  mother  a  desire  to  obtain  a  peep  at  the 
 features  of  his  future  better  half,  for,  as  she 
 was  continually  lauding  the  beauty  of  his  little 
 bride,  he  felt  rather  dubious  whether  he  ought 
 to  believe  all  that  his  parent  had  said  in  her 
 favour.  Her  anxiety  to  hasten  the  match  made 
 him  dubious  as  to  the  personal  appearance  of 
 Sarata. 
 
 "  Determined,  if  possible,  to  gratify  his  desire, 
 he  had  recourse  to  a  Levantine  Jewess,  who 
 was  in  the  habit  of  supplying  many  of  the 
 Harems  of  the  elite  with  jewellery.  She  was 
 an  old,  cunning  creature ;  and  knowing  how 
 completely  she  was  the  slave  to  that  sovereign 
 ruler  of  the  Ottoman  dominions,  Prince  Bak- 
 sheesh, he  endeavoured  to  persuade  her  to 
 introduce  herself  into  the  hall  of  the  Harem  in 
 which  Sarata  was  domiciled,  in  order  that  she 
 might  be  able  to  give  him  an  accurate  delinea- 
 tion of  the  features  and  appearance  of  his 
 betrothed. 
 
 "  The  sly  faggot  of  a  maid  of  Israel  returned 
 to  his  residence  two  days  afterwards,  and  gave 
 him  a  most  flattering  account  of  Sarata,  whom 
 she  designated  as  the  '  Star  of  Beauty ' — com- 
 
172 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 pared  her  teeth  to  pearls,  her  eyes  to  stars,  and 
 the  arches  of  her  eyebrows  to  the  arc-en-ciel 
 (rainbow). 
 
 "  It  appeared  that  she  had  been  in  the  habit 
 of  taking  quantities  of  jewellery  into  that 
 Harem  on  several  occasions,  and  that,  on 
 that  very  morning,  she  had  visited  Sarata  for 
 the  purpose  of  calling  for  some  watch-charms, 
 keys,  &c.  that  required  to  be  repaired.  And 
 it  is  no  uncommon  occurrence,  where  valuable 
 ornaments  are  taken  away  by  such  individuals 
 out  of  the  Harems,  that  some  of  less  value  are 
 substituted  for  them,  or  else  they  are  purloined. 
 
 "  It  happened  only  at  the  latter  end  of  last 
 year,  that  H.  H.  Hawwaia  Hanem,  a  member 
 of  the  late  Viceroy  Abbas  Pachas  Harem, 
 brought  an  action  in  the  British  Consular 
 Court  at  Cairo,  before  Albany  Fonblanque,  Esq. 
 H.  M.  late  Vice-Consul,  against  Barbara  Maggi 
 and  Luigi  Maggi,  to  recover  a  valuable  orna- 
 ment, called  girlandu,  worth  2,5  OOl.  which  she 
 had  entrusted  to  the  defendants  to  repair. 
 
 "The  bride  had  found  great  fault  with  the 
 quality  of  those  articles,  for,  like  a  great  portion 
 of  the  modern  bijoux  generally  sold  to  the 
 
BRIDAL  PRESENTS. 
 
 173 
 
 inmates  of  many  of  the  Harems  by  those  kind 
 of  women,  they  were  perfect  rubbish,  being 
 neither  more  nor  less  than  metal  covered  with 
 a  thick  plate  of  gold,  and  for  which  the  slaves 
 pay  almost  fabulous  sums. 
 
 "Keschid,  thinking  himself  extremely  for- 
 tunate in  the  selection  that  his  mother  had 
 made  for  him,  exclaimed,  ' Allaha  chuhur  el 
 hamdu  billcth  pek  eyou  un 9  ('  Very  well ;  God 
 be  thanked!'),  and  at  the  same  time  handed 
 her  a  packet  of  gold.  He  also  gave  her  several 
 pretty  boxes  of  fruit  'and  bonbons,  and  two 
 handsome  vases,  filled  with  artificial  flowers,  to 
 present  to  his  bride. 
 
 "  As  soon  as  the  marriage  contract  was 
 signed,  the  costly  bridal  presents  were  sent. 
 They  consisted  principally  of  a  parcel  of  rich 
 silks  and  jewellery,  a  dressing-glass,  and  a  pair 
 of  slippers  for  the  bath-room,  which  latter  is 
 always  considered  an  indispensable  article. 
 
 "Reschid,  in  return,  received  from  Saratas 
 parents  a  quantity  of  body-linen,  napkins 
 fringed  with  gold,  silver,  and  silk.  Then  each 
 of  the  parents  exchanged  presents  among  them- 
 selves. 
 
174 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 "A  considerable  period  elapsed  between  the 
 signing  of  the  marriage  contract  and  the  bridal 
 day,  during  which  time  Rescind  was  occupied 
 in  getting  together  the  amount  of  the  settle- 
 ment, while  the  bride's  parents  were  preparing 
 her  trousseau. 
 
 "  At  length  the  joyful  day  arrived,  and  the 
 festivities  lasted  four  days — that  is,  from  Mon- 
 day morning  until  sunset  on  Thursday.  The 
 marriage  night  was  fixed  for  Friday,  which  is 
 considered  the  most  propitious  day,  on  account 
 of  that  being  the  day  on  which  Mahomet  the 
 Prophet  was  conceived,  hence  the  reason  why 
 it  is  our  [the  Turkish]  sabbath. 
 
 "  The  bridal  ceremony  was  celebrated  by  both 
 families,  the  women  according  to  their  manner, 
 and  the  men  in  theirs.  The  rejoicings  consisted 
 chiefly  in  grand  banquets,  during  the  intervals 
 of  which  large  quantities  of  coffee,  sherbet, 
 preserves,  perfumes,  pipes,  and  cigarettes  were 
 used. 
 
 "  A  most  lively  hilarity  characterised  these 
 reunions,  which  were  at  one  time  varied  by 
 the  feats  of  jugglers  and  dancers,  and  at 
 others  by  the  exhibition  of  Kara-kioz,  the 
 
THE  LUXURY  OF  BATHING. 
 
 175 
 
 Turkish  Punch.  The  parents  and  their  ac- 
 quaintances passed  twenty-four  hours  in  each 
 others  residence  ;  and  so  numerous  were  they 
 that  the  divans  in  the  rooms  and  the  Harems 
 were  their  seats  by  day  and  their  couches  by 
 night. 
 
 "  Each  day  had  its  peculiar  ceremony.  On  the 
 Tuesday  Sarata's  trousseau  was  carried  in  state 
 to  the  bridegrooms  house.  On  Wednesday 
 evening  the  bride  was  led  to  the  bath-room, 
 and  there  underwent  the  luxury  or  torture  of  a 
 bath.  For  to  my  idea  and  feelings  it  is  nothing 
 more  nor  less  than  a  punishment  to  be  scalded 
 with  boiling  water  like  a  dead  pig,  and  then  to 
 be  kneaded  about  like  a  lump  of  dough  until 
 your  whole  body  looks  like  a  mummy.  The 
 hands  of  the  slaves  who  soap  your  person  and 
 rub  you  are  shrivelled  up  like  those  of  washer- 
 women just  taken  out  of  the  scalding  suds,  and 
 in  that  state  they  remain.  Then  an  incredible 
 number  of  cosmetics,  salves,  dyes,  &c.  are  used, 
 my  utter  abomination  (for  my  mothers 
 daughter  has  never  used  anything  but  healthy 
 cold  water),  which  they  apply  before  quitting 
 the  bath  room,  where  the  whole  of  the  lady 
 
176 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 guests  and  the  poor  women  of  the  locality 
 were  assembled  to  meet  her. 
 
 "  The  latter  had  divested  themselves  of  their 
 rags,  which  they  left  in  the  hall,  and  attired 
 themselves  in  new  garments,  which  had 
 been  bought  for  the  occasion  out  of  the  sum 
 appropriated  for  the  festival.  Early  the  next 
 afternoon,  Sarata,  accompanied  by  her  mother, 
 sisters,  and  suite,  left  her  parental  roof  for 
 that  of  her  husband.  Then  the  parents,  the 
 guests  who  had  been  invited  by  both  families, 
 the  men  and  the  women  belonging  to  both 
 Harems,  all  assembled  there.  The  festivities 
 lasted  the  whole  day,  and  ended  with  a  grand 
 supper. 
 
 "  At  the  silent  hour  of  midnight,  Eeschid,  after 
 having  taken  leave  of  his  father,  whose  hand  he 
 kissed,  as  also  those  of  his  brothers  and  rela- 
 tives, repaired  to  his  own  Harem,  into  which 
 he  glided  more  like  a  snake  than  a  human 
 being.  There  he  found  Sarata,  closely  veiled, 
 seated  on  a  divan,  awaiting  his  arrival.  The 
 mother  of  the  Harem,  who  stood  in  one  corner 
 of  the  room,  introduced  him,  as  was  her  office, 
 to  his  bride,  who  on  his  entrance  rose  up  off 
 
THE  MOTHER  OF  THE  HAREM.  177 
 
 her  seat,  and  as  he  advanced  to  take  hold  of 
 her  hand,  seized  his  and  kissed  it  as  a  token  of 
 submission.  Eeschid  then  lifted  up  the  mys- 
 terious veil.  The  old  mother  of  the  Harem,  for 
 she  was  — 
 
 '  A  wrinkled  hag  with  age  grown  double, 
 Picking  bananas,  and  mumbling  to  herself ; 
 Her  eyes  with  scalding  rheum  galled  and  red, 
 And  palsy  shook  her  head  ;  her  hands  seemed  withered  ; 
 And  on  her  crooked  shoulder  had  she  wrapped 
 The  tattered  remnant  of  a  red  satin  hanging,' 
 
 still  occupied  the  corner,  as  motionless  as  a 
 statue  in  its  niche. 
 
 "  '  I  must  send  that  baggage  away/  thought 
 Eeschid  to  himself;  but  this  was  more  easily 
 said  than  managed.  'Here/  said  he,  drawing 
 forth  from  his  pocket  a  silk  purse,  'are  two 
 hundred  piastres,  take  them  and  begone/ 
 
 "  The  old  hag  did  not  move  a  muscle. 
 
 " '  Take  any  one  of  these ! '  exclaimed  the 
 bridegroom,  holding  out  his  hand  in  which  lay 
 several  purses,  some  with  five,  six,  eight,  and 
 ten  hundred  piastres. 
 
 "  Still  the  old  creature  did  not  budge  an  inch. 
 Sarata  was  smiling  all  this  time  beneath  her 
 mask,  yclept  veil. 
 
 VOL.  I.  N 
 
178 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 "At  length,  Keschid,  thinking  that  it  was 
 quite  time  to  put  an  end  to  this  farce,  pushed 
 the  old  hag  out  of  the  chamber.  Then  he 
 turned  round  and  looked  upon  Sarata's  face  for 
 the  first  time.  But,  alas  !  he  was  most  woefully 
 disappointed ;  for  Sarata  was  not  the  beauteous 
 Peri,  the  crafty  Jewess,  who  had  taken  bak- 
 sheesh from  all  parties,  had  led  him  to  believe." 
 
 As  soon  as  Ehoda  had  finished  this  reminis- 
 cence of  her  visit  to  Stamboul,  I  regained  my 
 chamber,  and  added  a  few  pages  to  my  journal. 
 It  was  a  most  lovely  night.  I  sat  on  my  box 
 by  the  open  window,  there  quite 
 
 "  Enchanted  I  gazed 
 On  the  rare  beauties  of  the  moonlight  scene  ; 
 Conspicuous  the  Vice  Regal  Pavilion  blazed 
 Upon  a  sloping  bank  of  softest  green, 
 A  fairer  edifice  was  never  seen  ; 
 
 The  high  ranged  columns  appeared  to  own  no  mortal  hand, 
 
 But  seemed  a  lovely  temple,  meet  for  Beauty's  Queen  ! 
 
 Like  polished  snow  the  marble  pillars  stand 
 
 In  grace,  attempered  majesty,  sublimely  grand. 
 
 Gently  ascending  from  the  Nile's  slimy  flood, 
 
 Above  the  gorgeous  structure  rose  the  shaded  hill. 
 
 The  lofty  eminence  was  crowned  with  wood, 
 
 And  the  rich  lawns  adorned  by  Nature's  wondrous  skill, 
 
 The  passing  breezes  with  their  perfumed  odours  fill. 
 
 There  thick  ever-blooming  groves  of  orange  glow  ; 
 
 And  there  all  lovely  flowers,  which  from  their  leaves  distil 
 
BEATING  OF  MUFFLED  DRUMS. 
 
 179 
 
 Ambrosial  dew,  quickly  in  sweet  succession  blow, 
 
 And  the  tall  sycamores  of  huge  girth  a  fragrant  shade  bestow. 
 
 The  moon  shone  bright  amid  a  sky  serene 
 
 And  bid  its  lustrous  shade  glide  o'er  the  tide. 
 
 The  far-famed  slimy  Nile,  at  a  distance  seen, 
 
 Bounds  the  sweet  landscape  on  the  western  side  ; 
 
 While  closing  round  it  with  majestic  pride, 
 
 The  lofty  rocks  'mid  citron  groves  arise, 
 
 Where  Egypt's  princely  Viceroy  now  resides  ;" 
 
 but  my  reverie  was  soon  disturbed  by  the 
 sound  of  the  beating  of  muffled  drums  falling  on 
 my  ears,  which  brought  to  my  mind  the  "  Dead 
 March  in  Saul "  when  played  at  a  soldier's 
 funeral  Leaning  out  of  the  window,  and 
 glancing  in  the  direction  of  His  Highness's 
 pavilion,  I  perceived  a  female  figure  enveloped 
 in  a  large  black  hubarah,  shuffling,  (for  no 
 Turkish  or  Egyptian  woman  can  walk)  along 
 towards  the  gate  that  leads  into  the  pavilion 
 gardens.  She  was  preceded  by  two  eunuchs ; 
 then  followed  several  boy  eunuchs  beating  their 
 muffled  drums,  which  I  was  afterwards  in  the 
 habit  of  hearing  of  a  night,  almost  as  fre- 
 quently as  the  beating  of  the  tattoo  in  India, 
 and 
 
 "  I  hated  its  mournful  and  discordant  sound, 
 Parading  round,  and  round,  and  round ; 
 
 N  2 
 
180 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 To  wanton  slaves  it  baksheesh  yields, 
 
 But  in  its  noise  the  virtuous  no  pleasure  feels. 
 
 To  me  it  talked  of  ravaged  charms, 
 
 Of  tawdry  silks  and  jewelled  arms, 
 
 And  aching  limbs  and  bitter  groans, 
 
 And  woman's  tears  and  orphan's  moans  ; 
 
 All  that  Misery's  hand  bestows 
 
 To  fill  the  catalogue  of  human  woes." 
 
 I  looked  with  astonishment  at  this  midnight 
 march.  For  some  moments  my  glance  was 
 riveted  upon  the  procession,  it  had  such  a 
 novel  and  singular  appearance;  but  turning  my 
 eyes  towards  His  Highness's  pavilion  I  beheld 
 it  lighted  up.  Then,  looking  through  my 
 achromatic  opera-glass,  and  at  the  same  time 
 placing  my  ear  down  on  the  window  sill,  I 
 
 <k  Heard  through  the  pavilion  melodious  music  steal, 
 And  self-prepared  the  splendid  banquet  stands  ; 
 Self-poured  the  champagne  sparkles  in  the  bowl  ; 
 The  lute  and  viol,  touched  by  unseen  hands, 
 And  the  soft  voices  of  the  choral  bands." 
 
 Then  full  well  did  I  know  that  H.H.  Ismael 
 Pacha,  the  Viceroy,  was  giving  a  fete  that  even- 
 ing ;  and  the  idea  struck  me,  as  afterwards 
 proved  to  be  the  fact,  that  the  veiled  figure 
 was  one  of  His  Highness's  "  ikbals "  (favourite 
 slaves),  who  had  gone  to  pass  the  night  in  the 
 
MOONLIGHT  SCENE. 
 
 181 
 
 far-famed , "  guest  's  chamber/'  in  the  Pavilion. 
 I  afterwards  learned  that  whenever  the  Viceroy 
 required  the  presence  of  any  of  the  favourites, 
 they  invariably  proceeded  to  his  presence  in 
 that  manner;  and  proud,  indeed,  were  they 
 whenever  His  Highness  delighted  to  have  their 
 society. 
 
 A  few  nights  afterwards,  about  eleven  o'clock, 
 when  I  had  closed  my  window,  and  had  sat 
 down  to  continue  my  journal,  I  was  disturbed 
 by  the  sounds  of  loud  revelry.  At  first  I 
 was  at  a  loss  to  conceive  whence  the  noise 
 issued,  as  I  knew  that  the  eunuchs  always 
 locked  the  outer  doors  leading  down  to  the 
 staircases  at  ten  o'clock.  Still,  as  the  romp- 
 ing and  laughing  appeared  to  come  from  near 
 the  Harem  gardens,  at  first  I  thought  that, 
 perhaps,  some  of  H.  H.  the  Viceroy's  guests  had 
 become  rather  jovial,  and  had  rambled  about  in 
 the  Pavilion  gardens,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
 Harem. 
 
 Listening,  however,  for  a  few  moments,  J 
 heard  the  well-known  laugh  of  one  of  my  own 
 slave  attendants.  Rising  from  my  seat,  I  ex- 
 tinguished the  wax-lights,  opened  the  window 
 
182 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 softly,  peeped  out  into  the  grounds,  and,  lo ! 
 there,  to  my  utter  amazement,  I  beheld  a  motley 
 group  of  black  female  slaves.  Moving  about 
 them  were  figures  closely  resembling  the  sol- 
 diers, when  muffled  up  in  their  cloaks,  who 
 usually  mounted  guard  at  the  outside  gates  of 
 the  Harem.  Looking  through  my  opera-glass, 
 I  immediately  discerned  several  of  the  eunuchs 
 "  tripping  along  the  verdant  green  ; "  others 
 were  dancing  and  singing  as  merrily  as  if  they 
 were  an  "  elfin  band." 
 
 I  had  heard  much,  and  read  a  great  deal, 
 about  the  impossibility  of  men  entering  the 
 Harems  of  the  East,  considered  so  "  sacred  M  by 
 all  Moslems,  that  no  true  believer  has  ever 
 been  known  to  visit  the  "  Abode  of  Bliss  "  of  a 
 true  Mussulman.  But  now  that  I  had  seen  the 
 female  slaves  of  the  Viceregal  Harem  rambling 
 about  at  night  with  the  eunuchs,  "  the  guardians 
 of  those  girls,"  and  other  muffled  figures,  I  could 
 not  help  giving  credence  to  the  assertion  of  a 
 celebrated  writer  on  Oriental  life,  that,  crabbed 
 and  cross-grained  as  the  eunuchs  may  be,  still 
 there  are  many  of  them  who  bow  the  knee  to 
 that  sovereign  ruler  of  Egypt,  Prince  Bak- 
 
HOUSEHOLD  EXPENDS. 
 
 183 
 
 sheesh,  and  that  golden  keys  do  sometimes 
 throw  back  the  rusty  hinges  of  the  doors  they 
 guard ;  or  else  bow  came  the  slaves  and  their 
 partners,  those  muffled  figures, 
 
 "  To  be  dancing  on  the  verdant  lawn, 
 In  the  bright  moonlight." 
 
 Then  I  remembered  Mr.  B/s  narrative  of  the 
 eunuch,  Dafay,  whose  wife  had  a  numerous 
 family;  and  having  myself  witnessed  several  of 
 these  spectres  of  mankind  "  toying  and  wooing  " 
 with  the  black  female  slaves,  I  doubted  their 
 infirmity  of  body,  and  kept  a  watchful  eye  over 
 them.  I  would  never  allow  any  of  the  female 
 slaves  to  sleep  within  my  chamber,  the  door  of 
 which  I  both  locked  and  bolted  within  nightly. 
 
 I  had  an  excellent  opportunity  of  remark- 
 ing the  immense  sums  of  money  squandered 
 away  in  the  Viceregal  Harems  of  Ghezire 
 and  Alexandria,  The  annual  supply  of  the 
 richest  silks,  satins,  velvets,  laces,  muslins,  and 
 numerous  articles  of  female  attire,  together  with 
 boots,  shoes,  slippers,  confectionery,  bonbons, 
 golden-leaved  tobacco,  Schiedam,  perfumes,  and 
 a  whole  host  of  miscellaneous  European  articles, 
 
184 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 of  which  His  Highness's  associates,  Messrs.  H. 
 had  the  supply,  could  not  have  cost  less  than 
 100,000?.  per  annum.  The  amount  that  their 
 Highnesses  expended  in  jewels  alone  averaged 
 3,0 OOl.  per  annum ;  the  sum  sacrificed  upon 
 the  altar  of  Prince  Baksheesh  cannot  fall  far 
 short  of  70,0 001.  per  annum,  and  the  bare 
 expenses  of  the  household  must  amount  to 
 44,000Z.  per  annum ;  so  that  it  may  be  esti- 
 mated the  Viceregal  Harem  costs  H.  H.  the 
 Viceroy  no  less  a  sum  than  25  0,00  01.  to 
 300,000?.  per  annum,  or  250?.  to  300?.  per 
 head ;  and  this  is,  I  feel  assured,  considerably 
 within  bounds,  because  it  must  be  borne  m  mind 
 that  their  Highnesses  the  Princesses  distribute 
 baksheesh,  and  a  supply  of  both  plain  and 
 costly  attire,  to  those  around  them  with  no 
 sparing  hand. 
 
 The  census  of  the  Harem  is  150  to  200, 
 slaves  and  eunuchs  included  ;  and  as  Messrs.  H. 
 have  the  supply  of  everything,  their  profits 
 must  be  enormous ;  for  every  commodity  is 
 purchased  by  them  in  bulk,  at  wholesale  prices, 
 and  charged  to  H.  H.  the  Viceroy  at  the 
 marketable  rates. 
 
THE  VICEROY'S  YACHT. 
 
 185 
 
 CHAPTEE  XL 
 
 One  morning  when  I  was  quitting  H.  H.  the 
 Grand  Pacha's  Reception  Saloon,  accompanied 
 by  my  pupil,  to  take  our  usual  ramble  in  the 
 gardens,  one  of  the  eunuchs  approached,  and 
 after  having  made  his  ordinary  salaam,  informed 
 me  that  H.  H.  the  Viceroy  Ismael  Pacha  re- 
 quested me  to  take  the  Prince  on  board  his 
 beautiful  yacht,  The  Crocodile,  and  that  I 
 should  find  H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha's  yacht,  the 
 elegant  Fairy,  lying  off  the  Harem  landing- 
 place,  which  would  convey  us  on  board  His 
 Highness's  steamer,  which  had  proceeded  farther 
 up  the  Nile. 
 
 Returning  to  my  chamber,  I  attired  myself 
 in  a  silk  walking-dress,  while  Shaytan  took  the 
 Prince  into  his  room,  and  dressed  him  in  grand 
 tenue  as  a  Turkish  General. 
 
186 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 His  uniform  consisted  of  a  pair  of  grey 
 trousers,  fastened  round  his  knees  with  a 
 strap,  patent  leather  knickerbockers,  laced  up 
 outside,  a  grey  cloth  kilt,  buckled  round 
 his  waist  by  a  broad  white  web  band,  over 
 which  was  placed  a  jacket  of  the  same  colour, 
 most  richly  embroidered  with  silver  lace  and 
 silver  buttons.  Then  a  black  silk  velvet  pale- 
 tot, trimmed  with  gold  lace  and  gold  buttons, 
 and  lined  with  crimson  satin,  the  skirts  of 
 which  were  drawn  back  by  a  strap  of  gold 
 lace,  fastened  behind  to  the  waist  with  a 
 gold  button,  completed  his  dress.  On  his 
 shoulders  he  wore  two  gold  epaulets.  In  his 
 pockets  were  placed  two  handkerchiefs,  one  of 
 red  silk  and  the  other  of  the  finest  lawn,  each 
 corner  of  which  was  embroidered  with  white 
 silk  and  gold  thread,  neither  of  which  he  ever 
 used.  They  were  never  washed,  but,  when 
 crumpled,  ironed  out. 
 
 Leading  H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha  by  the  hand, 
 I  took  him  downstairs,  proceeded  across  the 
 garden  into  the  Harem,  and  passed  forthwith 
 into  the  room  occupied  by  the  ladies  of  the 
 Harem.    There  I  found  their  Highnesses  the 
 
THE  u  FAIRY." 
 
 187 
 
 Princesses,  the  three  wives,  congregated  to- 
 gether, each  of  whom  took  hold  of  the  Prince, 
 kissed  him  several  times,  and  gave  him  messages 
 to  deliver  to  the  Viceroy. 
 
 As  soon  as  H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha  had  bid 
 them  adieu,  I  proceeded  with  him  to  the 
 landing-place,  where  we  embarked  on  board 
 the  Fairy,  accompanied  by  his  usual  attendants, 
 and  the  yacht  steamed  away  up  the  Nile.  The 
 Prince,  as  soon  as  he  went  on  board,  where  he 
 was  received  with  The  usual  honours,  hurried 
 down  the  stairs  into  the  saloon,  and  most 
 kindly  took  me  all  over  the  yacht. 
 
 The  saloon  was  most  elegantly  fitted  up.  On 
 its  gilded  panels  were  painted  several  pleasing 
 landscapes  of  Alexandria  and  its  suburbs. 
 The  ceiling  was  painted  white,  with  gilded 
 beading  and  cornices.  The  floor  was  covered 
 with  a  rich  Brussels  carpet.  The  sofa  was  of 
 ormolu  and  gold,  covered  with  figured  white 
 satin.  Large  mirrors  reached  down  from  the 
 ceiling  to  the  floor.  Ormolu  tables,  with  marble 
 tops,  were  placed  about  in  different  parts,  as 
 also  cane  chairs.  The  cushions  of  the  divans 
 were  of  white  figured  satin,  trimmed  with 
 
188 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 brilliant  massive  gold  tassels.  Some  black 
 satin  cushions,  ornamented  with  gold  thread 
 and  pearls,  also  lay  upon  the  floor. 
 
 The  six  plate-glass  windows  on  each  side, 
 which  reached  from  the  ceiling  down  to  the 
 floor,  were  fixed  in -rosewood  frames,  that  could, 
 as  well  as  the  wooden  jalousies,  if  necessary,  be 
 drawn  over  those  openings  when  the  glass 
 windows  were  drawn  back  into  the  sides. 
 
 At  the  farther  extremity  were  two  immense 
 glass  mirrors,  which  formed,  as  it  were,  folding- 
 doors,  and  when  these  were  drawn  back  the 
 whole  appeared  as  one  immense  saloon. 
 
 The  doors  having  been  pushed  back,  I  entered 
 the  other  compartment,  which  I  found  similarly 
 furnished  to  that  I  had  just  quitted.  Proceed- 
 ing along  it,  I  reached  a  mirror  that  formed 
 a  door  on  the  right-hand  side,  and  pushing 
 this  back  I  discovered  that  it  led  me  into  a 
 lavatory.  Opposite  to  it  was  the  water-closet 
 — not  d  V Anglais,  but  a  la  Turque — which 
 consisted  of  a  marble  floor,  in  which  was  a 
 hole  cut,  in  the  shape  of  a  carpenter's  plumb- 
 line.  I  had  seen  similar  ones  at  Troyes,  in 
 France,  on  the  line  from  Paris  to  Basle.  In 
 
THE  DENTNCr  SALOON. 
 
 189 
 
 one  corner  stood  a  silver  ewer  filled  with  water. 
 At  the  farthest  extremity  of  the  saloon  were 
 two  immense  mirrors,  reaching  down  from  the 
 ceiling  to  the  floor,  which  formed  folding-doors, 
 and  on  sliding  them  back  into  their  sockets, 
 both  myself  and  my  pupil  walked  out  on  to 
 the  semi-circular  poop-deck,  which  was  carpet- 
 ed and  covered  with  an  awning,  and  encircled 
 by  a  gilt  rail. 
 
 After  steaming  up  the  river  some  distance, 
 the  tender,  as  the  Fairy  was  often  called,  soon 
 reached  H.H.  the  Viceroys  yacht,  The  Croco- 
 dile, and  was  hailed  by  the  Captain  Bachi,  to 
 bring  to. 
 
 A  long  narrow  rowing-boat  then  approached 
 the  yacht.  It  w^as  covered  with  an  awning, 
 manned  by  fourteen  rowers,  having  crimson 
 velvet-cushioned  seats  on  both  sides,  the  bottom 
 being  matted  and  richly  carpeted. 
 
 At  the  stern,  which  was  raised,  sat  the 
 captain  and  four  of  the  crew,  holding  the  cords 
 of  the  red  satin  awning,  lined  with  wdiite  satin 
 and  trimmed  with  gold  fringe.  We  both 
 entered  it,  seated  ourselves  under  the  awning, 
 and  were  rowed  alongside  the  Crocodile. 
 
190 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 As  the  boat  near  eel  His  Highness's  yacht,  the 
 band  of  the  regiment  on  board,  (for  H.  H. 
 Ismael  Pacha,  who  may  be  said,  like  the 
 Chinese,  to  live  the  greater  part  of  his  time  on 
 the  water,  always  carries  a  band  with  him,) 
 struck  up  the  Sultan's  March  as  H.  H.  the 
 Grand  Pacha  and  myself  ascended  the  ladder, 
 which  was  covered  with  crimson  cloth.  The 
 officers  then  advanced,  saluted  him,  and  the 
 soldiers  presented  arms. 
 
 As  H.H.  the  Viceroy  had  visitors  we  pro- 
 ceeded into  the  first  or  audience  saloon,  on 
 the  panels  of  which  were  exquisitely  painted 
 several  scenes  of  the  most  interesting  places 
 on  the  Nile.  Between  these  were  let  in,  as  it 
 were,  in  richly  gilded  frames,  peacocks  with 
 their  magnificent  tails  spread  out  at  full  length, 
 and  several  other  specimens  of  the  varied  orni- 
 thology of  Egypt,  all  formed  of  precious  stones. 
 Also  numerous  bouquets  of  flowers  and  clusters 
 of  fruit.  The  ceiling  was  painted  white,  having 
 a  beautiful  centre-piece  representing  a  battle 
 scene,  one  of  Ibrahim  Pacha's  victories  in 
 Syria ;  the  most  conspicuous  objects  in  which 
 were  several  wild-looking  horses,  held  by  Arabs. 
 
THE  VICEROY'S  YACHT. 
 
 191 
 
 It  was  edged  with  gilt  beading  and  ornamented 
 with  rich  cornices. 
 
 The  floor  was  covered  with  matting,  over 
 which  was  placed  a  rich-looking  drab  ground 
 carpet,  interspersed  with  roses  and  large  blue 
 convolvuses.  The  divan  in  which  His 
 Highness  sat  is  covered  with  red  and  white 
 silk  and  gold  thread,  which  gives  it  a  most 
 gorgeous  appearance.  The  framework  of  the 
 chairs  were  gold,  and  the  seats  covered  with 
 the  same  material  as .  the  Divan,  as  also  were 
 the  hangings  of  the  doors  and  windows.  In 
 the  centre  stood  a  superb  round  inlaid  table. 
 Mirrors  were  placed  on  each  side  of  the  entrance, 
 and  also  behind  the  divan,  which  was  ranged 
 across  the  saloon  on  which  H.  H.  the  viceroy 
 generally  sat,  so  that  he  could  see  every  person 
 as  they  approached.  Passing  through  a  panel 
 door,  which  was  painted  with  a  fine  view  of 
 the  cataracts  up  the  Nile,  we  entered  another 
 saloon,  whose  sides,  ceiling  and  carpet  were 
 similar  to  those  of  the  compartment  through 
 which  the  Prince  and  myself  had  just  passed, 
 except  that  between  the  painted  panels  were 
 placed  gilded  frames  containing  figures  of 
 
192 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 wild  animals  and  birds,  all  having  jewelled 
 
 eyes. 
 
 The  seats  to  the  chairs,  &c.,  were  covered 
 with  red  satin,  the  framework,  chairs  and  sofas, 
 were  of  ormolu  and  gold,  the  hangings  and 
 doors  were  of  the  same  material  as  the  covers 
 of  the  furniture.  In  the  centre  stood  a  square 
 sliding  dining-table,  covered  with  a  crimson 
 cloth  richly  embroidered  with  gold  thread, 
 fringed  with  a  deep  border  of  bullion,  and  at 
 the  corners  were  the  everlasting  crescent  and 
 star.  Mirrors  reached  from  the  ceiling,  on 
 which  was  painted  an  Egyptian  landscape, 
 down  to  the  floor. 
 
 Then  I  pushed  back  the  folding  glass  doors 
 into  their  sockets,  and  we  walked  out  on  to  the 
 poop  deck,  which  was  covered  with  a  handsome 
 thick  carpet.  Large  easy  rosewood  chairs  and 
 footstools,  covered  with  green  velvet  were  scat- 
 tered about.  It  was  protected  from  the  rays  of 
 the  burning  sun  by  a  snow-white  canvas  awning, 
 under  which  was  placed  a  square  one  of  thick 
 crimson  silk,  lined  with  white  satin  and  trimmed 
 with  bullion  fringe,  with  curtains  of  the  same 
 material  hanging  down  from  a  gilt  rod.  Having 
 
THE  VICEROY'S  BED-CHAMBER.  193 
 • 
 
 remained  for  some  moments  enjoying  the  re- 
 freshing breeze  which  had  sprung  up,  and  which 
 at  that  season  of  the  year  was  a  luxury,  we 
 descended  into  the  saloon,  opened  a  door  on 
 the  right  hand  and  walked  into  H.  H.  the 
 Viceroy's  bed-chamber.  The  ceiling  was 
 richly  gilded  and  beautifully  painted  in  fresco  ; 
 and  the  panels  were  of  rosewood  highly- 
 polished,  between  wThich  hung  in  superb  gilded 
 frames  figures  of  numerous  animals.  This  con- 
 stant display  of  figures  of  the  inhabitants  of 
 the  forest  impressed  me  with  an  idea  that  the 
 wThole  of  the  descendants  of  Mahomet  Ali  w^ith 
 whom  I  had  not  as  yet  come  into  contact,  were 
 naturally  cruel,  overbearing,  and  even  brutal  in 
 their  tastes.  In  short,  barbarity  appeared  to 
 be  a  legacy  which  had  descended  to  them,  as  I 
 had  already  seen  H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha  mani- 
 fest the  utmost  indifference  to  human  sufferings, 
 and  take  delight  in  the  exercise  of  wanton 
 cruelty  towards  his  inferiors  and  the  com- 
 panions of  his  daily  pastimes. 
 
 The  floor  was  covered  with  a  crimson  carpet 
 interspersed  with  wThite  Japan  roses.  The  gilded 
 iron  bedstead  was  surmounted  with  gilt  knobs  ; 
 
 vol.  l  o 
 
194 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 on  the  top  in  the  centre  stood  a  large  gilt 
 crescent.  The  hangings,  which  slid  upon  gilded 
 rods,  were  of  rich  crimson  silk.  The  coverlet 
 was  of  white  corded  silk,  superbly  embroidered 
 with  gold  thread  and  trimmed  with  bullion 
 fringe.  At  the  foot,  resting  on  an  ormolu 
 table,  on  which  was  placed  a  magnificent  Sevres 
 toilette  service,  stood  a  large  mirror.  At  one 
 side  of  the  chamber  was  placed  a  superb  inlaid 
 ebony  wardrobe,  and  opposite  to  it  stood  a  rich 
 cabinet  to  match.  The  latter  was  a  most 
 exquisite  piece  of  workmanship,  a  perfect  gem. 
 On  this  day  it  so  attracted  the  notice  of  H.  H. 
 the  Grand  Pacha,  who  must  have  observed  it 
 "  many  a  time  and  oft,"  that  he  stopped  to 
 examine  every  part  of  it.  On  this  morning, 
 however,  its  golden  key  had  been  left  in  the 
 lock,  and  the  prince  s  curiosity  to  examine  its 
 interior  was  so  intense  that  I  could  not  restrain 
 His  Highness  from  unlocking  it,  who  imme- 
 diately commenced  rummaging  its  contents. 
 Among  numerous  other  objects  of  rare  vertu 
 which  attracted  the  little  prince  s  attention,  was 
 a  gold  clasped  red  morocco  book,  about  the  size 
 of  an  ordinary  note  letter-blotter.    Taking  it 
 
THE  RED  BOOK. 
 
 195 
 
 up  and  handing  it  to  me  he  requested  that  I 
 would  open  it  for  him. 
 
 Acting  according  to  his  commands  I  turned 
 the  elegantly-chased  gold  key  that  was  fastened 
 to  its  handle,  in  the  Bramah-like  wards,  and 
 then  handed  the  book  over  to  the  Prince.  He 
 took  it  in  his  tiny  hands,  turned  it  over  and 
 over  again,  admired  the  elegant  manner  in 
 which  its  covers  were  embossed,  opened  it, 
 turned  the  leaves  over,  apparently  expecting  to 
 find  that  it  contained  some  pictures  or  photo- 
 graphs. 
 
 Great,  however,  was  his  disappointment, 
 when  he  found  only  a  few  pages  covered  over 
 with  what  he  termed  characters  d  la  Franca. 
 Placing  that  precious  "Ked  Book,"  which, 
 though  not  the  Egyptian  Court  Guide,  might 
 most  appropriately  have  been  termed,  minus 
 its  colour,  H.H.  the  Viceroy  Ismael  Pachas 
 "Blue  Book,"  into  my  hand,  I  scanned  the 
 pages,  and — guess  my  utter  astonishment,  when 
 I  saw  that  it  contained  a  list  of  the  "  eighteen 
 other  Princes"  who  govern  Egypt. 
 
 I  could  scarcely  believe  my  eyesight.  It 
 appeared  to  me  as  if  I  were  under  the  delusion 
 o  2 
 
196 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 of  a  mirage.  Again  I  ran  my  eye  down  that 
 list.  Then  I  became  convinced  that  it  was  a 
 reality  ;  for  at  the  head  of  the  first  page  loomed 
 forth,  in  a  bold  clear  hand-writing,  the  title  of 
 that  sovereign  ruler  of  Egypt,  Prince  Bak- 
 sheesh ;  and  underneath,  in  regular  order,  were 
 placed  the  names,  at  full  length,  of  all  those 
 special  Princes  and  their  subordinates ;  and 
 opposite  to  each,  in  the  red  ink  column,  com- 
 mencing with  that  of  my  own  special  Prince, 
 were  placed  sums  beginning  with  3,0 00Z. 
 down  to  300?.,  and  at  the  bottom  the  sig- 
 nificant words  "per  annum."  Then  I  fully 
 understood  the  force  of  the  expression  of  that 
 clever  contributor  to  "Once  a  Week,"  when 
 he  states,  "  Let  your  own  special  Prince  back 
 up  your  petition,"  &c,  and  what  have  you  got  ? 
 Nothing !  I  repeat,  that  at  that  moment  I  only 
 understood  the  force  of  that  expression,  but  I 
 can  now  affirm  that  I  have  lived  to  experience 
 its  veracity. 
 
 I  re-locked  that  valuable  souvenir.  Kind 
 reader,  it  is  indeed  a  precious  volume !  for  no 
 less  a  sum  than  17,000?.  was  offered  for  its 
 abstraction.    I  then  explained  to  H.  H.  the 
 
THE  PIPE-BEARER. 
 
 197 
 
 Grand  Pacha  that  it  contained  an  account  of 
 the  baksheesh  which  I  supposed  H.  H.  the  Vice- 
 roy was  either  accustomed  to,  or  else  intended 
 to,  distribute  to  those  Europeans  whom  "he 
 delighted  to  honour/'  and  safely  lodged  it  in  its 
 place.  I  had  held  a  fortune  in  my  hands  ;  but 
 as  "  honesty  is  the  best  policy,"  I  left  the  tempter, 
 and  walked  away  from  the  cabinet — a  wiser, 
 although  decidedly  not  a  richer,  woman. 
 
 On  the  top  of  this  matchless  cabinet  stood 
 a  most  magnificently  inlaid  square  ivory  box, 
 which  also  attracted  the  Prince's  attention ; 
 but  finding  that  it  was  locked,  he  turned  round 
 to  the  Viceroy's  TchibouJcdji,  " pipe  bearer," 
 who  may  be  termed  His  Highness's  factotum. 
 The  individual  holding  this  office  is  one  of 
 the  most  influential  persons  about  his  person, 
 since  he  possesses  the  power  to  refuse  all  ad- 
 mittance to  the  Viceregal  presence,  and  can  at 
 all  times  command  the  ear  of  his  august  liege. 
 In  short,  it  may  be  remarked,  that  he  seldom  or 
 never  quits  the  Viceregal  presence  by  night 
 nor  day. 
 
 I  have  often  been  with  His  Highness,  Ismael 
 Pacha,  when  the  world  may  have  thought  that 
 
198 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 we  were  "  all  alone,  all  alone ! "  but  you  may 
 take  it  for  granted  that,  as  my  footsteps  ap- 
 proached towards  the  Viceregal  sanctorum,  the 
 Tchiboukdji  vanishes,  Asmodeus-like,  out  of 
 sight,  undoubtedly  exclaiming  to  himself,  like 
 Oberon  in  the  "  Midsummer  s  Night's  Dream, — 
 
 "  But  who  comes  here  ?    I  am  invisible, 
 And  I  will  overhear  their  conference 
 
 and  snugly  ensconced  himself  behind  the  hang- 
 ings of  either  the  doors  or  windows,  as  was  his 
 wont.  Had  that  drapery  been  drawn  aside, 
 there  would  that  faithful  being  have  been  found 
 standing  as  motionless  and  breathless  as  the 
 spectre  in  "  Don  Giovanni ; "  so  that  you  may 
 believe  me  when  I  say  that,  shrouded  as  it 
 were  in  his  invisibility,  he  is  ever  present  at  all 
 interviews  which  take  place  between  His  High- 
 ness and  his  male  favourites,  associates  in 
 commerce,  ministers,  ah !  and  even  when  "  our 
 own  Prince,"  or  any  of  the  other  seventeen 
 Princes  who  govern  Egypt  obtain  audiences. 
 
 Thus  does  he  become  the  depository  of  both 
 private  and  state  secrets.  His  smile  to  all 
 about  the  Viceregal  person  is  Kke  the  "new 
 
THE  IV0KY  BOX. 
 
 199 
 
 born  day,"  but  his  frown  is  like  the  impene- 
 trable darkness  of  night.  The  Grand  Eunuch 
 is  his  bosom  friend,  and  when  smoking  their 
 delicious  golden-coloured  tobacco  together,  (ren- 
 dered still  more  acceptable  by  the  addition  of  a 
 mite  of  opium,)  is  it  not  possible  that  he  may 
 have  exclaimed,  in  the  beautiful  language  of 
 the  Prince  of  Poets — 
 
 "  But  that  I  am  forbid 
 To  tell  the  secrets  of  the  prison-house, 
 I  would  a  tale  unfold,  whose  lightest  word 
 Would  harrow  up  thy  soul,  freeze  thy  young  blood  ; 
 Make  thy  two  eyes  like  stars,  start  from  their  spheres  ; 
 Thy  knotted  and  combined  locks  to  part, 
 And  each  particular  hair  to  stand  on  end, 
 Like  quills  upon  the  fretful  porcupine." 
 
 The  Tchiboukdji  immediately  produced  a  small 
 key  and  opened  the  box. 
 
 H.H.  the  Grand  Pacha  gazed  with  delight 
 upon  the  contents  of  both  the  compartments. 
 The  top  one  contained  numerous  small  purses 
 filled  with  Egyptian  silver  paras,  and  sove- 
 reigns, both  Egyptian,  English,  and  Turkish, 
 French  napoleons,  and  gold  ten  and  five-franc 
 pieces.  Lifting  up  the  tray,  the  second  com- 
 partment was  filled  with  jewelled  hilts  for 
 
200 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 swords,  buckles  inlaid  with  crescents  and  stars 
 of  diamonds,  which  had  evidently  been  used  for 
 sword-belts,  many  of  which  must,  from  their 
 antique  settings,  have  belonged  to  the  renowned 
 Mehemet  Ali  and  the  gallant  Ibrahim  Pacha. 
 
 There  was  another  tray  filled  with  an  im- 
 mense quantity  of  large  loose  precious  stones  of 
 great  value,  of  which  the  little  Prince  took  up  a 
 handful,  seated  himself  upon  the  divan,  and 
 began  to  play  with  them.  After  he  had  amused 
 himself  for  a  considerable  time  in  that  harmless 
 manner,  he  made  the  Tchiboukdji  hand  him  all 
 the  large  purses  of  money  which  stood  in  the  top 
 compartment,  one  by  one,  while  he  emptied  their 
 contents  on  to  the  divan,  and  then  set  to  playing 
 at  keeping  a  bank,  his  most  favourite  pastime. 
 Thus  early  did  he  develop  that  he  inherited 
 his  father's  genius  of  understanding  "  the  art  of 
 making  money  produce  a  proper  return." 
 
 As  soon  as  he  became  tired  of  that  amuse- 
 ment, he  rose  up,  leaving  to  the  Tchiboukdji, 
 who  was  of  an  amiable  disposition,  the  trouble 
 of  re-sorting  all  the  different  coins,  and  putting 
 them  back  into  their  respective  purses. 
 
 After  we  had  examined  the  whole  of  this 
 
VICEREGAL  POLITENESS. 
 
 201 
 
 princely  yacht,  we  proceeded  into  the  grand 
 saloon,  where  we  now  found  H.H.  Ismael 
 Pacha,  the  Viceroy,  who  had  been  closeted 
 with  His  Excellency  Eeschid  Pacha  on  our 
 arrival,  alone,  dressed  a  la  Europeenne,  sitting 
 on  a  divan  ;  and  whom  I  now  discovered,  to  my 
 discomfiture,  to  be  no  other  than  the  individual 
 whom  I  had  mistaken  in  the  Harem  to  be  the 
 Viceregal  barber.  I  curtesied  and  remained 
 standing,  until  he  motioned  me  to  be  seated  on 
 the  divan  on  his  right  side. 
 
 His  Highness,  who  is  most  affable  both  in 
 his  manners  and  deportment,  has  a  pleasing 
 yet  thoughtful  expression  of  countenance,  an 
 excellent  type  of  bonhommie,  and  yet  the  very 
 photograph  of  the  celebrated  Rothschild  when 
 leaning  against  the  pillar  on  'Change,  minus 
 the  Jewish  cast  of  contour.  He  scanned  my 
 lineaments  and  attire  from  head  to  foot,  and,  as 
 is  his  custom,  "he  slyly  lifted  his  eye's  blue 
 windowlet,"  and  looked  intently  at  me  for  a 
 considerable  time,  as  if 
 
 "  His  present  mind 
 
 Was  under  fascination  ;  he  beheld 
 
 A  vision  and  stared  at  the  being  he  saw 
 
 Thus  strangely  in  his  presence." 
 
202 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Then  he  placed  the  little  Prince  on  his  left 
 hand,  and  despatched  the  Tchiboukdji,  who  had 
 now  entered  the  apartment,  to  fetch  a  purse  of 
 paras,  which  generally  contained  about  5l, 
 the  contents  of  which  he  emptied  into  the 
 Grand  Pashas  pockets  to  distribute  as  bak- 
 sheesh among  his  attendants,  the  whole  of 
 which  I  was  surprised  to  see  on  our  return  to 
 the  Harem  was  taken  possession  of  by  the 
 head  nurse,  who  handed  the  greater  portion  to 
 myself.  At  first  I  declined  to  accept  any  of 
 the  coins,  but  being  informed  that  it  was  the 
 custom  to  receive  such,  I  always  afterwards 
 took  whatever  pieces  of  money  Shaytan  handed 
 to  me ;  the  rest,  as  a  matter  of  course,  she  kept 
 to  herself. 
 
 The  Viceroy  then  turned  round  to  me,  and 
 enquired  if  I  would  like  to  make  an  excursion 
 up  the  Nile.  Replying  in  the  affirmative,  and 
 thanking  H.H.  Ismael  Pacha  for  his  atten- 
 tion, I  curtsied  and  retired  with  the  prince, 
 who  salaamed  his  father,  as  was  his  usual 
 custom. 
 
 On  descending  the  gangway  we  were  rowed 
 alongside  another  yacht  called  the  "Ibis,"  on 
 
BEAUTIFUL  SCENERY. 
 
 203 
 
 board  of  which  we  were  received  with  the 
 customary  honours,  and  passed  the  day  steam- 
 ing up  and  down  the  Nile,  during  which  ex- 
 cursion we  passed  within  sight  of  the  palaces 
 of  Kasr  Dubarra,  Kasr  El  Ainee,  and  the 
 celebrated  island  of  Bhoda,  at  the  southern 
 extremity  of  which  stands  the  Nilometer,  at 
 the  point  where  the  river  branches  off  into  two 
 streams,  one  of  which  passes  by  Ghiseh,  and 
 the  other  by  Old  Cairo.  A  portion  of  the 
 island  was  at  that  time  covered  with  the 
 slime  of  the  Nile,  through  which,  however, 
 several  shrubs  had  thrust,  as  it  were,  their 
 branches;  white  ibisses  were  on  the  surface 
 dipping  their  beaks  into  it  in  search  of  prey ; 
 huge  sycamores  spread  their  grateful  shade 
 around. 
 
 .Those  beautiful  gardens,  the  delight  of 
 Ibrahim  Pacha,  which  stand  on  its  northern 
 extremity,  were  at  that  season  of  the  year  just 
 bursting  forth  in  all  their  splendour.  There  the 
 stately  palm-trees  of  the  Antilles  waved  their 
 lofty  slender  branches  ;  the  gigantic  Indian  bam- 
 boos, upwards  of  ten  feet  high,  grow  as  luxuri- 
 antly as  if  they  reared  their  heads  in  the  jungles 
 
204 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 of  Bengal.  There  also  were  to  be  seen  specimens 
 of  foliage  quite  foreign  to  the  soil,  but  cut  in  most 
 singular  fashion,  as  also  fruit-trees,  whose  forms 
 are  as  peculiar  as  the  taste  of  their  fruit,  all  of 
 which  give  a  most  curious  and  unique  aspect 
 to  those  exquisite  gardens,  which  are  inter- 
 spersed with  long  and  wide  shady  avenues,  and 
 surrounded  by  almost  impenetrable  masses  of 
 masonry.  There  flower-beds  flourish  filled 
 with  brilliant  exotics,  and  emerald  spots  irri- 
 gated with  streams  of  clear  water,  and  large 
 patches  of  vegetable-gardens  in  the  highest 
 state  of  cultivation.  A  small  white  marble 
 kiosk  reared  its  tapering  roof  above  the  dark 
 green  foliage  of  the  sycamores,  and  a  stone 
 bank  stood  by  the  river  side. 
 
 The  next  morning,  as  soon  as  H.  H.  the 
 Prince  had  returned  from  his  usual  walk,  I 
 obtained  permission  from  H.  H.  the  Princess 
 Epouse  to  pay  a  visit  to  Mr.  B/s,  at  Cairo. 
 Orders  were  accordingly  given  by  the  Grand 
 Eunuch  for  a  state  barge  to  be  prepared  to 
 convey-  me  across  the  Nile,  and  a  messenger 
 was  despatched  to  Cairo,  to  order  a  carriage  to 
 be  sent  down  to  the  landing-place,  on  the  Cairo 
 
IRREGULARITY  IN  THE  HAREM.  205 
 
 side,  as  there  are  no  carriages  or  horses  kept  at 
 the  Harem  or  Pavilion. 
 
 After  I  had  been  kept  waiting  several 
 hours,  I  embarked  in  the  barge,  landed  on 
 the  other  side  of  the  Nile,  entered  the  Vice- 
 regal carriage,  and  forthwith  proceeded  to  the 
 bankers. 
 
 Fortunately,  I  found  Mr.  B.  at  home.  He 
 received  me  very  kindly,  and  listened  atten- 
 tively to  my  description  of  the  inconveniences 
 to  which  I  had  been  subjected. 
 
 As  I  found  it  utterly  impossible  to  adopt 
 any  regular  system  as  to  the  educational  sur- 
 veillance of  H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha,  I  deemed 
 it  prudent  to  explain  in  detail  to  Mr.  B.  the 
 difficulties  which  I  had  to  encounter. 
 
 The  irregularity  which  prevailed  in  the  domes- 
 tic arrangements  of  the  Harem  had  totally  frus- 
 trated all  my  endeavours  to  carry  out  any 
 regular  system.  Sometimes  1  received  orders 
 from  the  Grand  Eunuch,  which  were  issued  at 
 the  caprice  of  H.  H.  the  Princess  Epouse,  who, 
 as  a  matter  of  course,  was  perfectly  ignorant  as 
 to  the  manner  adopted  in  Europe  of  training 
 up  young  children,  to  take  the  Grand  Pacha 
 
206 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 out  walking  at  six  o'clock  in  the  morning ;  on 
 other  occasions  at  seven,  eight,  and  nine 
 o'clock.  And  when  once  the  little  Prince  was 
 in  the  gardens,  it  was  exceedingly  difficult 
 to  get  him  to  return.  His  will  was  law ;  and 
 no  matter,  however  singular  and  unreasonable 
 his  whims  were,  still  he  must  be  indulged  in 
 them. 
 
 I  drew  up  a  scheme  for  his  education,  and 
 endeavoured  to  obtain  H.  H.  the  Viceroy's 
 sanction  to  its  execution ;  but  that  Prince  ex- 
 plained to  me  that  he  did  not  wish  the  Prince 
 to  be  taught  from  books  or  toys,  as  he  would 
 pick  up  English  quickly  enough  by  being  con- 
 stantly with  me ;  so  that  I  abandoned  all 
 idea  of  educational  training. 
 
 Then  I  explained  to  Mr.  B.  the  numerous 
 degradations  to  which  I  was  subjected,  and 
 called  his  attention  to  the  fact  that  I  was 
 unprovided  with  either  chairs  or  tables ;  that  I 
 was  obliged  to  use  my  trunks  as  substitutes  for 
 such  necessaries,  which  were  liable  to,  and 
 actually  did,  before  I  retired  from  His  High- 
 ness's  service,  produce  spinal  complaint. 
 
 Again  and  again,  as  I  had  previously  done, 
 
EXPOSURE  TO  THE  SUNT.  20 7 
 
 when  remaining  as  a  guest,  nay,  I  should  rather 
 add  as  a  caged-bird,  under  his  hospitable  roof, 
 I  pointed  out  to  him  that  not  only  did  I  find 
 the  Arab  diet  so  nauseous  to  my  taste  as  to 
 oblige  me  to  live  chiefly  upon  dry  bread  and  a 
 little  pigeon  or  mutton,  but  that,  owing  to  the 
 want  of  more  nourishing  food,  and  especially 
 European  cooking,  I  found  my  strength  gradu- 
 ally sinking  day  by  day;  and  that  the  con- 
 stant use  of  coffee,  and  the  total  deprivation 
 of  those  stimulants,  such  as  malt  liquor  and 
 wine,  to  which  I  had  always  been  accustomed, 
 and  of  which  it  is  absolutely  necessary 
 that  Europeans  should  partake  in  warm  coun- 
 tries, to  counteract  the  hostile  debilitating  effects 
 of  the  climate,  would,  I  fear,  soon  throw  me  on 
 a  bed  of  sickness. 
 
 Besides,  I  was  constantly  being  sent  out 
 with  the  Prince  into  the  gardens  during  the 
 intense  heat  of  the  day,  the  thermometer  often 
 ranging  from  99°  to  100°;  it  really  seemed  as 
 if  H.  H.  the  Princess  Epouse  considered  that  I 
 had  been  thoroughly  acclimatized  before  I 
 entered  the  Harem. 
 
 Then  the  very  atmosphere  I  breathed  was 
 
208 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 continually  impregnated  with  the  fumes  of 
 tobacco,  into  which  large  quantities  of  opium 
 and  other  deleterious  narcotics  were  infused, 
 which  so  affected  my  constitution  that  my 
 spirits  began  to  flag,  and  I  felt  a  kind  of  heavy 
 languid  apathy  come  over  me,  that  scarcely 
 any  amount  of  energy  on  my  part  was  able  to 
 shake  off. 
 
 The  irksome  monotony  of  my  daily  life 
 had  produced  a  most  unpleasant  feeling  in 
 my  mind.  Not  only  had  I  lost  much  of 
 my  wonted  energy,  but  a  kind  of  lethargy 
 seemed  to  have  crept  over  me ;  a  most  un- 
 definable  reluctance  to  move  about  had  im- 
 perceptibly gained  ascendancy  over  my  actions  ; 
 — to  walk,  to  speak  (and  here  I  must  not  for- 
 get to  mention  that  my  voice  had  become 
 extremely  feeble) — to  apply  myself  to  drawing, 
 reading,  or,  in  fact,  to  make  the  slightest  exer- 
 tion of  any  kind  whatever,  had  become  abso- 
 lutely irksome  to  me. 
 
 It  was  not  the  feeling  of  what  we  Europeans 
 call  ennui  which  I  experienced,  for  that  sensa- 
 tion can  always  be  shook  off  by  a  little  moral 
 courage  and  energy ;  but  it  was  a  state  border- 
 
MELANCHOLY  MADNESS.  209 
 
 ing  on  that  frightful  melancholy,  that  must,  if 
 not  dispelled,  engender  insanity.  And  my 
 experience  of  such  feelings  is  not  to  be  won- 
 dered at,  if  my  position  in  the  Harem  is 
 thoroughly  examined. 
 
 VOL.  1. 
 
 P 
 
210 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 CHAPTEK  XII. 
 
 Well,  kind  reader  ;  there  I  was,  totally  un- 
 acquainted with  either  the  Turkish  or  Arabic 
 tongues ;  unaccustomed  to  the  filthy  manners, 
 barbarous  customs,  and  disgusting  habits  of  all 
 around  me ;  deprived  of  every  comfort  by 
 which  I  had  always  been  surrounded ;  shut  out 
 from  all  rational  society;  hurried  here  and 
 there,  in  the  heat  of  a  scorching  African  sun, 
 at  a  moment's  notice ;  absolutely  living  upon 
 nothing  else  but  dry  bread  and  a  little  pigeon 
 or  mutton,  barely  sufficient  to  keep  body  and 
 soul  together.  Compelled  to  take  all  my  meals 
 but  my  scanty  breakfast  (a  dry  roll  and  cup  of 
 coffee)  in  the  society  of  two  clownish  disgust- 
 ing German  peasant  servants ;  lacking  the 
 stimulants  so  essentially  necessary  for  the  pre- 
 servation of  health  in  such  a  hot  climate ; 
 
THE  "IKBALS." 
 
 211 
 
 stung  almost  to  death  with  mosquitoes,  tor- 
 mented with  flies,  and  surrounded  with  beings 
 who  were  breeders  of  vermin ;  a  daily  witness 
 of  manners  the  most  repugnant,  nay,  revolting, 
 to  the  delicacy  of  a  European  female — for 
 often  have  I  seen,  in  the  presence  of  my  little 
 Prince, 
 
 u  A  lady  of  the  Harem,  not  more  forward  than  all  the  rest, 
 Well  versed  in  Syren's  arts,  it  must  be  confessed, 
 Shuffle  off  her  garments,  and  let  her  figure  stand  revealed 
 Like  that  of  Venus  who  no  charms  concealed  !  " 
 
 Surrounded  by  intriguing  Arab  nurses,  who 
 not  only  despised  me  because  I  was  a  Howadji, 
 but  hated  me  in  their  hearts  because,  as  a 
 European  lady,  I  insisted  upon  receiving,  and 
 most  assuredly  I  did  receive,  so  far  as  H.  H.  the 
 Viceroy  and  their  H.  H.  the  Princesses,  the  three 
 wives,  were  concerned,  proper  respect.  The  bare 
 fact  of  my  being  allowed  to  take  precedence  of 
 all  the  inmates  of  the  Harem,  even  of  the 
 Ikbals,  "  favourites,"  galled  them  to  the  quick  ; 
 and  there  is  no  doubt  but  they  were  at  that 
 time  inwardly  resolved  to  do  their  utmost  to 
 render  my  position  as  painful  as  possible,  nay, 
 
 p  2 
 
212 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 even  untenable.  Then  my  only  companions 
 in 
 
 "  These  mystic  halls  so  long  from  you  concealed, 
 Whose  secrets  are  by  me  at  length  revealed," 
 
 were  the  ladies  of  the  Harem,  whose  appear- 
 ance I  have  already  described  as  being  totally 
 at  variance  with  that  glowing  myth-like 
 picture  that  the  prince  of  Irish  poets,  Tom 
 Moore,  gives  of  retired  beauty,  so  erroneously 
 supposed  to  be  caged  within  the  precincts  of 
 the  Abodes  of  Bliss,  in  his  exquisite  poem  of 
 "  Lalla  Kookh,"  for  therein  I  failed  to  find 
 
 "  Oh,  what  a  pure  and  sacred  thing  * 
 Is  beauty  curtained  from  the  sight 
 Of  the  gross  world,  illumining 
 One  only  mansion  with  her  light." 
 
 They  were  composed  of  the  old  Ikbals,  favou- 
 rites of  Ibrahim  Pacha,  and  some  of  those  who 
 had  ceased  to  rank  as  such,  or,  as  the  slaves 
 emphatically  termed  it,  to  please  the  "  Baba 
 Efendimir." 
 
 I  was  struck  with  their  use  of  the  expres- 
 sion, "  please  the  Viceroy/'  for  it  was  one  that 
 had  been  used  to  me  when  I  had  an  interview 
 
THE  LADIES  OF  THE  HAREM.  213 
 
 in  London  with  Mr.  C.  H/s  sister,  prior  to  my 
 leaving  for  Egypt,  by  that  Tady.  At  that  time 
 I  did  not  heed  the  expression ;  now  that  the 
 Ikbals  had  used  it  I  understood  their  signifi- 
 cance of  its  meaning,  and  I  was  perfectly  con- 
 vinced in  my  own  mind  that,  taking  it  in  that 
 sense,  they  meant  that  I  should  not  please  His 
 Hiohness,  no  matter  how  long  I  remained  in 
 the  Viceregal  service. 
 
 Many  were  very  old,  as  no  woman  is  ever 
 ejected  iiom  this  supposed  type  of  the  Maho- 
 metan Paradise,  as  poor  Hagar  was  repudiated 
 of  old.  Ah  !  but  hereby  hangs  a  tale — except 
 when  the  "green-eyed  monster,"  jealousy  or 
 envy,  for 
 
 u  Mean  souls  wish  sorrow  to  the  happy-minded, 
 And  hate  the  sun  that  sweetly  smiles  upon  content ! 
 But  when  base  owls  and  bats  by  mid-day  blinded, 
 Accuse  the  light,  is  the  sun  into  darkness  sent  ?" 
 
 sends  her  to  her  "long  account  with  all  her 
 imperfections  on  her  head."  When  she  is 
 doomed,  however,  with  calm  resignation, 
 
 "  She  hears  the  fatal  news — no  word — no  groan  ; 
 She  speaks  not,  moves  not,  stands  transfixed  to  stone 
 
214 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 but  how  she  went,  or  when,  no  one  within 
 that  mystic  Castle  of  Indolence  dare  tell ;  and 
 yet  the  depths  of  the  slimy  Nile,  could  they 
 but  speak,  "  would  many  a  tale  unfold."  When 
 questioned  all  shake  their  heads,  and  utter  that 
 significant  Arab  expression,  Malesch !  Ma- 
 lesch !  "  No  matter,  no  matter  !  " 
 
 "  A  word  that  gives  death  and  life,  makes  war  and  truce, 
 In  illustration  this  example  I  adduce  f 
 
 she  disappeared.  White  slaves,  all  most  ordi- 
 nary creatures,  for,  although 
 
 "  I  held  a  mirror  to  each  Odalisque's  face, 
 Of  beauty,  I  found  not  a  single  trace 
 
 young  and  passee,  were  mingled  indiscrimi- 
 nately together. 
 
 Black  slaves  were  there,  disgusting  looking 
 negresses  with  low  foreheads,  sure  sign  of  cun- 
 ning, malice,  deceit,  and  treachery,  sunken  over 
 the  eyebrows,  not  unlike  those  hideous-looking 
 beings  the  Cretins,  with  large  rolling,  heavy, 
 inexpressive  eyes,  the  unmistakable  mark  of 
 want  of  intelligence  which  renders  women 
 almost  akin  to  animals ;  flat,  mis-shapen  noses, 
 wide  mouths,  projecting  jawbones,  black  broad 
 
THE  BEDLAM. 
 
 215 
 
 lips,  long  fingered  hands,  filbert  nails,  orange- 
 coloured  by  the  use  of  henna,  spindle  legs,  pro- 
 jecting heels,  and  not  very  large  but  flat  feet. 
 The  colour  of  their  skin  varied  considerably. 
 Some  had  bright  glossy  black,  others  rather 
 brown,  and  all  possessing  bad  teeth,  a  rare 
 thing  with  the  regular  negress  ;  and,  to  sum  up 
 all,  their  tout  ensemble  was  very  repulsive. 
 
 Their  occupation  during  the  best  portion  of 
 the  day  consisted  in  lolling  or  rolling  about  the 
 divans  and  mattresses  which  lay  upon  the 
 ground,  or  squatting  upon  all  fours,  doubling 
 themselves  up  like  snips  upon  their  boards  or, 
 clasped  knives,  which  pose  plastique  I  was  for 
 ever  doomed  to  behold.  These  were  proceedings 
 far  more  appropriate  tobeasts  than  human  beings. 
 
 Then  my  head  ached  again  with  the  inces- 
 sant clattering  of  the  tongues  of  upwards  of 
 two  hundred  women  and  children,  jabbering 
 away  like  monkeys — some  in  Arabic,  others  in 
 Turkish ;  while  the  Ethiopian,  Nubian,  and 
 Abyssinians  were  constantly  hooping  and  hal- 
 looing out  most  indecent  language  in  their  own 
 vernacular,  since  they  do  not,  like  Europeans, 
 consider  that 
 
216 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 "  Immodest  words  admit  of  no  defence, 
 For  want  of  decency  is  want  of  sense  ; 
 She  that  brings  fulsome  objects  to  my  view, 
 As  many  old  did  do,  and  many  new, 
 With  nauseous  images  my  fancy  fills, 
 And  all  goes  down  as  oxymel  of  quills  ;" 
 
 made  such  a  hubbub  that  it  was  like  "  Bedlam 
 let  loose/' 
 
 Pray,  kind  reader,  just  picture  yourself  sur- 
 rounded by  such  a  motley  group  of  beings, 
 gabbling,  chattering  to  me  in  their  unknown 
 tongues ;  (for  at  that  moment  I  did  not  under- 
 stand either  Arabic  or  Turkish,)  and  making 
 grimaces  like  monkeys  from  four  o'clock  in  the 
 morning  until  ten  at  night  incessantly ;  and  then 
 you  may  form  some  idea  of  life  in  the  Harem — 
 that  myth-like  Elysium  of  the  fertile  imagina- 
 tion of  both  western  and  eastern  poets. 
 
 My  conduct  in  this  "  Mansion  of  Bliss  "  had 
 to  be  marked  with  the  greatest  circumspection, 
 in  order  not  to  awaken  the  jealousy  of  their 
 H.  H.  the  Princesses,  the  Three  Wives,  and 
 H.  H.  the  Viceroy's  Ikbal's  favourite  slaves. 
 Their  Highnesses  watched  my  actions  and 
 movements  with  the  closest  interest ;  I  should 
 rather  add  with  alarm,  lest  H.  H.  the  Viceroy 
 
THE  VICEROY'S  UNCLE. 
 
 217 
 
 should  bestow  upon  me  what  they  in  their  total 
 ignorance  of  European  manners  and  customs 
 might  be  led  to  construe  with  attention  too 
 marked. 
 
 All  were  Arabs,  and  many  of  the  favourites 
 Nubians  ;  and  well  did  I  remember  the  account 
 that  Warburton  has  given  of  the  revenge  taken 
 by  that  Nubian,  Malek  of  Shendy,  surnamed 
 "  The  Tiger,"  who  burnt  His  Highness  s  uncle, 
 Ismael  Pacha,  Mahomet  Ali's  second  son,  on  a 
 funeral  pyre,  because  that  young  prince  struck 
 him  with  his  pipe  across  the  face,  and  yelled 
 triumphantly  with  delight  when  he  heard  his 
 dying  screams. 
 
 I  had  also  heard  the  slaves  in  the  Harem 
 talk  of  the  sudden  disappearance  of  a  fa- 
 vourite slave  some  short  time  before  I  entered 
 that  "  Castle  of  Pleasure  ; "  and  as  I  had  been 
 particularly  instructed  by  one  of  H.H.  the 
 Viceroy  s  "  partners "  (as  the  ladies  of  the 
 Harem  styled  him)  not  to  allow  His  High- 
 ness to  partake  of  anything  that  had  not  been 
 previously  examined  by  the  " Hekim  Bachi" 
 (Viceregal  Doctor),  lest  he  should  be  poisoned, 
 I  very  naturally  kept  a  sharp  look-out,  in  case 
 
218 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 an  attempt  should  be  made  to  remove  me  by- 
 similar  means. 
 
 I  knew  that  the  head-nurse  hated  me,  simply 
 because  more  respect  was  paid  to  me  than 
 was  shown  to  herself.  On  one  occasion  that 
 negress  offered  me  an  apple ;  but,  looking  round, 
 I  perceived  a  slave,  who  had  been  one  of  H.H. 
 the  Viceroy's  favourites,  fix  her  large  blue  eyes 
 upon  the  nurse,  who  changed  colour — for, 
 "  although  black  as  ebony  she  was,"  still  she 
 blushed — and  recalling  to  my  mind  the  cir- 
 cumstance, as  told  to  me  in  the  Harem,  of  the 
 little  nephew  handing  a  Viceroy  the  poisoned 
 dates,  I  declined  the  fruit,  and  after  that 
 Shaytan  ever  afterwards  abstained  from  offering 
 me  any  more.  The  vile  wretch  had  betrayed 
 herself  by  her  own  countenance,  and  henceforth 
 I  was  on  my  guard. 
 
 I  soon  became  aware  of  the  dangerous  posi- 
 tion I  occupied,  and  resolutely  determined, 
 by  tact  and  prudence,  to  gain  not  only  the 
 esteem  but  the  confidence  (as  Mr.  Cohen  had 
 advised  me)  of  their  Highnesses  the  Princesses ; 
 and  I  can  say,  with  feelings  of  satisfaction, 
 that,  after  I  had  fought  "the  battle"  on  my 
 
MR.  C.  H.'s  OPINION  OF  THE  ENGLISH.  219 
 
 first  entrance  into  the  Harem,  I  was  esteemed 
 by  H.  H.  the  Viceroy,  and  his  three  wives, 
 beloved  by  my  Prince,  and  respected,  yet 
 feared,  by  the  whole  of  the  inmates  of  the 
 Harem,  from  the  Grand  Eunuch  down  to  the 
 meanest  slave ;  yet  I  never  propitiated  them 
 with  that  sovereign  ruler  of  Egypt,  Prince 
 Baksheesh. 
 
 No  attempt  was  ever  made  by  Mr.  B.  or  the 
 Messrs.  H's.  to  ameliorate  my  position.  Mr.  C. 
 H.  termed  my  complaints  fastidious,  and  added 
 that  "  we  English  people  never  would  accom- 
 modate ourselves  to  circumstances."  But, 
 Prussian  as  he  was,  I  can  assure  you  he  very 
 much  resembled  a  first-rate  Parisian  exquisite. 
 One  thing  which  I  can  vouch  for  is,  that  at  the 
 Hotel  du  Elrin,  at  Paris,  and  in  his  own  house 
 at  Alexandria — for  I  had  visited  it — he  took 
 special  care  to  have  everything  provided  for 
 his  own  convenience,  as  in  all  probability  he 
 had,  in  the  capacity  of  a  Crimean  suttler,  like 
 his  partners,  roughed  it  in  the  war,  where 
 he  had  reaped  the  first  fruits  of  his  wealth 
 from  the  purses  of  the  English  officers,  whose 
 countrymen  he  so  thoroughly  despised,  not 
 
220 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 feeling  (to  use  his  own  expression)  "  disposed 
 to  accommodate  themselves  to  circumstances." 
 I  think  he  would  have  shown  much  better  taste 
 had  he  allowed  H.  H.  the  Viceroy's  orders  to 
 have  been  carried  out ;  for  the  Prince,  whom  I 
 had  heard  styled  by  that  immaculate  Prussian 
 as  a  "barbarian,"  perfectly  understood  the 
 meaning  of  the  old  saying, 
 
 "  That  when  a  lady  is  in  the  case, 
 Every  thing  else  gives  place." 
 
 It  is  due  also  to  H.  H.  the  Princess  Epouse  to 
 state  it  was  through  her  kindness  and  attention 
 that  I  was  supplied  with  a  chair  and  table,  and 
 night  commode;  had  a  slave  appointed  to  attend 
 upon  me,  and  H.  H.  the  Viceroy  sent  me  a  case 
 of  claret,  a  chest  of  tea,  soup  from  his  own 
 table  when  I  was  ill,  ordered  his  Hehim  Bachi, 
 "Doctor,"  to  attend  upon  me,  and  placed  a 
 carriage  at  my  disposal  to  take  airings  with 
 H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha.  Orders  were  given  to 
 supply  all  my  wants.  But  His  Highness's 
 partners  stepped  in,  and,  like  one  of  Prince 
 Baksheesh's  creatures,  "put  a  spoke  in  my 
 wheel,"  and  I  got  nothing.  Absolutely  nothing ! 
 
THE  GERMAN  LAUNDRY  MAID.  221 
 
 His  Highness  the  Viceroy,  learning  that  I 
 had  complained  of  my  diet,  with  thorough 
 kindness  of  heart  sent  to  Europe  for  a  cook ; 
 and  a  German  from  Frankfort — that  most  ac- 
 commodating of  all  foreign  cities — was  engaged. 
 She  arrived  on  the  eve  of  my  departure  for 
 Constantinople,  so  that  I  derived  no  benefit 
 from  her  gastronomic  services,  as  she  remained 
 in  the  Harem  at  Alexandria,  and  I  was  the 
 only  European  who  accompanied  the  Viceregal 
 family  to  Istamboul. 
 
 The  next  morning  I  was  surprised  by  the 
 German  laundrymaid  entering  my  room,  after 
 breakfast,  and  asking  me  if  I  would  do  her  the 
 favour  to  speak  to  H.  H.  the  Princess  Epouse, 
 and  obtain  permission  for  her  to  visit  Cairo ; 
 but  as  I  had  been  cautioned  not  to  interfere  or 
 meddle  in  the  slightest  degree  with  the  domestic 
 arrangements  of  the  Harem,  I  declined,  atr  the 
 same  time  advising  her  to  apply  direct  to 
 H.  H.  the  Lady  Paramount,  to  whose  suite  she 
 belonged.  After  that  I  was  never  troubled  with 
 any  more  applications,  except  to  read  the  con- 
 tracts which  had  been  entered  into  by  herself 
 and  sister,  who  afterwards  came  into  the  Harem 
 
222 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 as  needlewomen.  Their  duties  consisted  in 
 keeping  the  linen  of  H.  H.  the  Viceroy,  and 
 that  of  the  Grand  Pacha,  in  order.  These  con- 
 tracts were  drawn  up  by  a  gentleman  in  the 
 office  of  one  of  His  Highness  s  partners,  and 
 then  I  learned,  to  my  astonishment,  that  their 
 stipends  were  nearly  double  the  amount  which 
 had  been  assigned  to  me  in  the  vague  contract 
 that  I  had  entered  into  in  London,  and  that 
 circumstance  at  once  conveyed  to  me  the  appre- 
 ciation in  which  English  ladies  are  held  in  the 
 eyes  of  this  Frankfort  clique. 
 
 The  offices  of  these  two  German  maids  were 
 perfect  sinecures,  as  they  were  not  employed 
 more  than  two  or,  at  the  most,  three  days  in 
 the  week;  but  the  airs  and  graces  which  they, 
 gave  themselves  were  most  unbearable,  and  I 
 was  often  obliged  to  reprove  them  for  the  free 
 and  easy,  nay  disrespectful  manner  in  which 
 they  intruded  themselves  into  the  presence  of 
 their  Highnesses  the  Princesses. 
 
 One  morning,  when  I  entered  the  reception- 
 hall  with  H.  H.  the  Prince,  I  was  informed  by 
 the  grand  eunuch,  that  the  barge  was  waiting 
 at  the  landing-place  to  convey  us  to  the  other 
 
AVENUE  OF  SYCAMORE  TREES.  223 
 
 side  of  the  Nile,  where  a  carriage  would  take 
 ns  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  Harem  occupied  by  the 
 widow  of  the  late  Viceroy,  Said  Pacha. 
 
 After  having  been  rowed  across  the  Nile,  we 
 landed,  entered  one  of  the  Viceregal  carriages, 
 and,  attended  by  an  escort  of  cavalry,  proceeded 
 to  the  Gate  of  Bab-el-Hadid,  then  we  passed 
 across  the  bridge  erected  over  the  canal,  and 
 proceeded  through  a  beautiful  avenue  of 
 sycamore-trees.  They  were  originally  planted 
 by  the  French,  but  which,  through  the  fertility 
 of  the  soil,  have  grown  up  to  an  enormous 
 size,  so  that  they  closely  resemble  a  dense 
 forest ;  forming  a  most  agreeable  shady  avenue, 
 assuredly  the  prettiest  promenade,  to  a  Euro- 
 pean s  taste,  in  the  vicinity  of  Cairo  ;  and  yet  it 
 is  by  no  means  so  fashionable  as  that  leading 
 to  Boulac  and  Old  Cairo.  When  we  had  pro- 
 ceeded half-way  down,  as  the  day  was  extremely 
 sultry,  we  stopped  at  an  old  cafe  to  let  the 
 horses  draw  breath. 
 
 This  drive  afforded  me  !an  opportunity  of 
 seeing  a  little  of  the  suburbs  of  the  capital 
 which  are  very  interesting.  Among  many 
 other  objects  we  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  fort 
 
224 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 which,  that  unfortunate  French  general,  Kleber, 
 erected  j  it  is  prettily  situated  amidst  several 
 unique  country  houses.  Soon  afterwards  we 
 approached  that  magnificent  palace  built  by 
 Mahomet  Ali.  Alighting  from  the  carriage  I 
 took  H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha  by  the  left  hand, 
 as  H.  H.  the  Viceroy  had  explained  to  me  that 
 such  was  their  custom,  as  the  right  hand  was 
 left  at  liberty  to  salaam  with. 
 
 Our  path  lay  through  some  very  pretty  but 
 by  no  means  very  extensive  gardens.  They 
 are  arranged  in  the  European  style,  and  scarcely 
 partake  of  anything  like  Orientalism,  except 
 the  foliage  and  exotics.  A  German  gardener 
 keeps  them  in  a  high  state  of  perfection.  They 
 are  intersected  with  straight  walks,  some  of 
 wrhich  have  a  most  singular  appearance,  being 
 paved  with  mosaics. 
 
 The  myrtle  and  jasmine  hedges  are  very 
 pretty,  and  in  the  grounds  there  is  a  greater 
 variety  of  sweet-scented  roses — the  perfume  of 
 which  is  almost  overpowering — than  is  to  be 
 found  in  any  other  part  of  Egypt.  Here  grows 
 the  banana  beside  the  orange,  the  golden  nar- 
 cissus hides  its  tender  head  from  the  scorching 
 
THE  GARDENS. 
 
 225 
 
 sun,  the  Mexican  tuberose  germinates  as  well 
 as  in  its  native  soil,  and  impregnates  the 
 atmosphere  with  its  delicious  odour.  Here 
 b)oom  the  odoriferous  lemon-trees,  and  the 
 lofty  acacia  Nilotica  rears  its  head  amidst  the 
 numerous  fountains. 
 
 In  the  centre  of  the  gardens  stands  an 
 elegant  octagonal  kiosk,  and  what  is  singular, 
 of  European  architecture.  It  has  beautiful 
 stained-glass  windows,  over  which  hang  rich 
 yellow  satin  curtains,  handsomely  arranged 
 with  unique  European  furniture  to  correspond. 
 Proceeding  farther  on  we  reached  the  Grand 
 Kiosk,  an  elegant  highly-tinished  modern  struc- 
 ture. It  has  a  large  white  marble  basin, 
 with  huge  sculptured  lions  couchant  at  each 
 corner,  from  which  spouted  forth  streams  of 
 clear  water.  The  fountain,  decidedly  the  real 
 lion  of  the  place,  is  roofless ;  but  a  covered 
 gallery,  supported  by  elegant  alabaster  columns, 
 extends  all  round  it,  and  leads  into  the 
 apartments.  These  are  furnished  in  truly 
 regal  style  a  la  Europeenne,  but  having  hand- 
 some divans  extending  underneath  the  windows 
 d  la  Turque. 
 
 vol.  L  Q 
 
226 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Numerous  very  pretty  kiosks  hang,  as  it 
 were,  over  the  water,  and  yet  the  entire  struc- 
 ture has  the  semblance  of  being  neither  more 
 nor  less  than  a  fac-simile  of  some  other  Oriental 
 building.  The  singular  style  of  its  architecture, 
 which  is  only  partly  Eastern,  renders  it  a  most 
 interesting  object  to  gaze  upon,  although  it 
 then  contained  neither  baths  nor  odalaks.  Its 
 pleasing  effect  is  considerably  diminished  by 
 the  walls  being  covered  with  some  very  mediocre 
 Italian  frescoes,  which  would  be  utterly  un- 
 worthy of  notice,  were  it  not  that  the  subjects 
 are  of  a  very  interesting  nature. 
 
 Here  it  was  that  a  celebrated  French  artist 
 most  admirably  painted  the  portrait  of  its  cele- 
 brated founder,  Mahomet  Ali,  who  passed 
 almost  all  his  leisure  time  at  this  agreeable 
 retreat ;  and  here  it  was  too  that,  when  point- 
 ing to  that  full-length  portrait  that  now  adorns 
 the  apartment  in  the  Palace  of  Eas-el-Tin,  at 
 Alexandria,  the  venerable  octogenarian  re- 
 generator of  Egypt  delighted  to  amuse  his 
 guests  by  impressing  upon  their  minds  how 
 boldly  he  had  set  at  nought  that  ridiculous 
 prohibition  of  the  Prophet,  who  forbade  every 
 
THE  HAREM. 
 
 227 
 
 Mussulman  to  sit  for  his  portrait,  or  to  hang 
 up  pictures  of  figures  in  their  dwellings. 
 
 Murray  states,  in  his  "  Hand  Book  of  Egypt," 
 that  the  fountain  "had  gas-lamps,  and  that 
 such  was  actually  in  use  here  long  before  any 
 part  of  Paris  was  lighted  with  it/'  but  I  failed 
 to  perceive  any.  The  kiosk  called  El  Gebel, 
 "  the  Hill,"  is  most  commandingly  situated,  and 
 affords  a  superb  vista  of  the  whole  grounds, 
 the  Nile,  the  lovely  terraces,  all  studded  with 
 fragrant  exotics,  and  the  distant  verdant  hills. 
 
 We  soon  entered  the  Palace,  a  large  but 
 rather  indifferently  built  structure. 
 
 Passing  through  the  gates  of  the  Harem, 
 which  were  immediately  closed  after  us,  and 
 the  massive  bolts  drawn,  we  traversed  a  small 
 courtyard.  Then  the  eunuch  unlocked  a  small 
 door,  and  we  ascended  a  broad  staircase,  the 
 steps  of  which  were  covered  with  fine  matting, 
 which  led  us  into  a  large  apartment,  covered 
 with  a  thick  variegated-coloured  Persian  carpet. 
 The  ceiling  was  ornamented  with  well-executed 
 arabesque  designs.  The  walls  were  white- 
 washed, and  the  lower  part  had  a  skirting 
 
 Q2 
 
228 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 from  four  to  five  inches  deep  round  it  of 
 Dutch  tiles. 
 
 The  windows,  which  were  in  the  French 
 style,  reached  down  to  the  floor.  The  hang- 
 ings both  of  them  and  the  doors  were  of  rich 
 coloured  silk  and  muslin,  looped  up  with 
 massive  bullion  cords  and  tassels.  In  the 
 centre  stood  an  elegant  inlaid  coloured  marble 
 fountain,  whose  waters  spread  a  delightful  and 
 refreshing  coolness  all  around,  for  the  thermo- 
 meter then  stood  at  120°. 
 
 Her  Highness,  the  widow  of  Said  Pacha,  one 
 of  the  handsomest  women  I  had  yet  seen  in 
 any  of  the  Harems,  sat  reclining  on  a  divan, 
 smoking  cigarettes.  She  was  of  middle  stature, 
 her  full  brown  eyes  were  lustrous  and  still  full 
 of  expression — for  she  was  rather  advanced  in 
 years — her  features  regular  and  of  the  Circassian 
 type.  She  wore  no  corset,  although  rather 
 stout,  but  her  carriage  was  erect.  Her  dress 
 was  composed  of  a  very  long  maroon-coloured 
 silk  dress,  which  trained  upon  the  ground,  very 
 full  bright  crimson  silk  trousers,  over  which 
 costume  she  wore  a  chocolate-coloured  velvet 
 jacket. 
 
THE  WIDOW  OF  SAID  PACHA.  229 
 
 Her  head  was  covered  with  a  dark  silk 
 handkerchief,  a  plume  of  ostrich  feathers  hung 
 down  over  the  right  ear,  and  a  beautiful  arti- 
 ficial darnask-rose,  highly  perfumed,  drooped 
 down  as  it  were  on  the  left. 
 
 A  black  spot  was  painted  in  the  centre  of 
 her  forehead.  In  her  small  ears  hung  magni- 
 ficent  diamond  drops ;  and  her  alabaster-looking 
 neck  was  encircled  with  a  necklace  of  brilliants. 
 Her  small  hands  were  as  white  as  snow  ;  her 
 finger  nails  were  tinged  with  henna;  and 
 several  large  diamond  rings  of  the  finest  water 
 sparkled  on  the  little  fingers  of  each  hand. 
 
 Her  Highness  sat  quite  motionless  as  we 
 were  ushered  into  the  room.  I  curtsied  to  her, 
 while  H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha  salaamed  her  in 
 his  usual  manner.  She  motioned  to  us  to  be 
 seated.  The  Prince,  whom  she  kissed  several 
 times,  sat  on  her  right  hand,  and  I  on  the  left. 
 A  whole  bevy  of  slaves,  both  white  and  black, 
 stood  about  Her  Highness,  in  the  form  of  the 
 everlasting  crescent,  awaiting  the  orders  of 
 their  mistress,  who  still  maintained  an  almost 
 interminable  silence.  After  a  lapse  of  about 
 ten  minutes  the  Princess  inquired  of  me,  how 
 
230 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 long  I  had  been  in  Egypt  ?  How  many  sisters 
 I  had  ?  And  whether  I  liked  Cairo  ?  To  which 
 interrogatories  I  replied  briefly,  yet  with  the 
 greatest  politeness.  She  then  asked  H.  H.  the 
 Grand  Pacha  whether  he  liked  me,  upon  which 
 he  replied  in  the  afhrmative. 
 
 The  semicircle  of  slaves  now  receded  a  little, 
 as  a  number  of  black  ones  entered  the  room 
 bearing  silver  trays,  which  they  handed  to  some 
 of  the  white  ones.  On  the  trays  were  placed 
 small  glass  dishes  filled  with  Turkish  and 
 Egyptian  sweetmeats,  having  three  small  gold 
 spoons  in  each.  These  were  handed  to  the 
 Princess  and  ourselves.  Other  slaves  served  us 
 with  glasses  filled  with  iced  water.  After  this 
 we  partook  of  coffee,  which  was  handed  to  -us  in 
 elegant  small  zarfs  or  transparent  Japan  china 
 egg-shaped  footless  cups,  inlaid  with  diamonds 
 and  other  precious  stones,  which  stands  they 
 held  between  the  thumb  and  fingers  of  their 
 right  hands. 
 
 While  we  were  indulging  ourselves  with  that 
 refreshing  beverage,  light,  beautifully  cut  glass 
 cups  with  covers,  similar  to  those  used  in 
 Europe  for  custards,  only  having  two  handles 
 
CONVERSATION  WITH  HER  HIGHNESS.  231 
 
 to  them,  placed  in  small  saucers  filled  with 
 different  kinds  of  sherbet,  were  passed  round 
 on  frosted  silver  trays  of  exquisite  workman- 
 ship, over  which  were  negligently  thrown 
 embroidered  rose-pink  silk  napkins,  which  the 
 slaves  removed  as  they  drew  near  to  us. 
 
 In  conformity  with  Oriental  etiquette  we 
 drank  about  two-thirds  of  that  deliciously  cool 
 beverage.  This  refreshment  being  over,  the  Cir- 
 cassian slaves  then  knelt  down  and  presented 
 each  of  us  with  a  gold  salver,  on  which  was 
 placed  a  fine  embroidered  muslin  napkin, 
 fringed  with  a  deep  border  of  gold  lace,  with 
 which  we  just  touched  our  lips  according  to 
 the  custom  of  the  country. 
 
 Then  commenced  a  short  running  conversa- 
 tion between  Her  Highness  and  myself,  which 
 simply  embraced  a  few  common-place  questions 
 as  to  my  opinion  of  the  country  and  the  newest 
 fashions,  the  details  of  which  seemed  to  afford 
 the  Princess  much  pleasure,  as  all  Oriental 
 ladies  of  rank  take  great  delight  in  learning 
 how  European  ladies  attire  themselves. 
 
 After  the  lapse  of  half  an  hour  the  Princess 
 rose  from  the  divan  and  took  me  on  a  tour  of 
 
232 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 inspection  through,  the  whole  apartments.  The 
 Circassian  and  Greek  slaves  followed  us  at  a 
 respectful  distance,  while  the  black  ones  grouped 
 together  and  brought  up  the  cortege.  All  the 
 rooms  were  very  meagrely  furnished ;  I  should 
 rather  add,  that  they  contained  absolutely 
 nothing  more  than  elegant  divans. 
 
 Returning  to  the  audience  saloon  which  we 
 had  quitted,  Her  Highness  seated  herself  on 
 the  divan,  and  motioned  for  us  to  do  likewise. 
 She  then  clapped  her  hands,  when  the  Circassian 
 slaves  brought  the  veil  and  habarah  which  I  had 
 worn ;  for  European  ladies  when  paying  visits 
 to  any  of  the  Viceregal  Princesses,  out  of  respect 
 invariably  adopt  that  portion  of  the  Turkish 
 costume,  and  fail  not  to  attire  themselves  in 
 a  black  silk  habarah,  and  wear  a  muslin  veil, 
 doubled  at  the  upper  part,  over  their  face,  which 
 had  been  laid  on  a  small  rose-pink  coloured 
 Cashmere  shawl,  richly  fringed  with  a  deep 
 border  of  bullion  lace. 
 
 When  I  was  attired  in,  to  me,  my  bal  masque 
 costume,  I  touched  my  lip  and  forehead  with 
 Her  Highness  s  dress,  who  pressed  my  hand, 
 saluted  me  on  the  cheek,  lowered  her  right 
 
A  MYSTERY. 
 
 233 
 
 hand,  then  touched  her  lips  and  forehead,  and 
 graciously  descended  the  staircase  leading  into 
 the  first  courtyard,  walked  across  the  yard  to 
 the  suspended  coloured  Egyptian  mat  that 
 hung  before  the  door  of  the  Harem  like  a 
 curtain,  which  was  then  lifted  up  by  the  eunuch 
 in  attendance.  Her  Highness  having  retired, 
 we  found  the  Grand  Eunuch  standing  upon 
 the  raised  stone  platform  at  the  grand  entrance 
 awaiting  our  arrival. 
 
 H.  H.  the  Prince  bestowed  baksheesh  upon 
 him,  and  we  entered  the  carriage,  re-crossed 
 the  Nile  and  returned  to  the  Harem.  I  was 
 very  glad  that  I  had  had  this  opportunity  of 
 visiting  Her  Highness  the  widow  of  Said 
 Pacha,  and  from  the  conversation  which  I  had 
 with  that  Princess  I  came  to  the  belief  that 
 Miss  T.'s  visit  to  that  lovely  creature  had 
 not  been  the  real  cause  of  her  not  having  been, 
 as  Mr.  C.  H.  stated,  allowed  to  enter  H.  H. 
 the  Viceroys  service.  From  all  that  I  had 
 heard  and  seen,  it  appeared  to  me  that  she  had 
 actually  been  in  the  Viceregal  Harem,  but  why 
 or  wherefore  she  did  not  enter  upon  her  engage- 
 ment is  a  mystery  that  I  cannot  solve,  espe- 
 
234 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 cially  as  my  own  "  Special  Prince  "  told  me 
 "  that  she  was  well  remunerated."  Hence  there 
 must  have  been  some  fracas,  or  how  could  he 
 have  known  anything  about  her  contract  ?  But 
 perhaps,  like  myself,  she  had  occasion  to  call  at 
 the  British  Consular  Court  at  Alexandria  to 
 obtain  her  passport,  which  document  is  taken 
 from  all  foreigners  when  they  enter  the 
 Ottoman  dominions,  and  being  questioned  by 
 either  H.  B.  M.  V.  Consul  or  his  subordinates,  as 
 to  the  purport  of  her  visit  to  Egypt,  she  at  once 
 entered  into  a  full  explanation  of  her  position, 
 and  was  called  upon  to  pay  a  fee  of  five  shillings 
 for  registering  herself  as  a  British  subject,  a 
 monstrous  imposition,  when  the  Foreign  Office 
 passport  fully  proved  her  nationality. 
 
SOCIAL  LIFE  IN  THE  HAREM. 
 
 235 
 
 CHAPTER  XIII. 
 
 A  most  erroneous  impression  has  been  drawn 
 by  authors  as  to  the  manner  in  which  the  in- 
 mates of  the  Harems  pass  their  socfal  life.  It 
 is  certainly  true  that  the  greater  portion  of  the 
 day  is  spent  in  doubling  themselves  up  on 
 divans.  Not  attired  in  costly  silks  of  China's 
 looms,  nor  bedizened  with  gems  of  Golconda  s 
 mines,  the  Peri's  within  the  Viceregal  "  Castle 
 of  Indolence,"  generally  wore  dirty,  filthy, 
 crumpled  muslin  dresses,  just  as  one  might 
 imagine  the  greatest  slatterns  in  the  back  slums 
 of  St.  Giles's  would  be  seen  walking  about  in 
 when  all  their  finery  had  been  pledged. 
 
 There  they  were  to  be  seen  smoking  their 
 Tchibouks,  or  cigarettes,  and  drinking  coffee  d 
 la  Turque,  as  dark  as  porter,  but  yet  most 
 delicious. 
 
236 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 I  was  quite  astonished  to  find  that  their 
 Highnesses  were  about  and  stirring  as  early  as 
 four  o'clock  in  the  morning,  which  was  indeed 
 matinal,  as  I  have  before  mentioned  that  the 
 Turks  count  their  time  from  the  setting  of  the 
 sun,  and  it  was  then  only  a  little  after  day- 
 break.   Then  commenced 
 
 "  From  the  first  glimpse  of  day  a  busy  scene  ; 
 Through  the  rooms  ranged  the  imprisoned  bee, 
 Buzzed,  bounced,  and  flew,  as  if  t'were  free." 
 
 At  the  dawn  of  day  the  Princesses  partook 
 of  coffee  and  smoked  cigarettes ;  then  they 
 remained  quite  motionless,  apparently  in  a 
 dreamy  state,  as  they  never  uttered  a  syllable. 
 About  seven  o'clock  they  received  a  visit  from 
 the  Grand  Eunuch.  A  crowd  of  old  and 
 young  ladies  of  the  Harem,  and  slaves  wear- 
 ing fashionable  Parisian  coloured  satin  shoes 
 down  at  heel,  and  stockings  almost  heelless  and 
 footless,  were  squatted  on  the  floor,  like  snips 
 on  their  boards,  in  the  form  of  a  semi-circle 
 facing  their  Viceregal  mistresses,  while  others 
 had  gone  and  shut  themselves  up  in  their  own 
 apartments,  which  they  invariably  did  when 
 
MORNING  TOILETTE. 
 
 237 
 
 affected  with  any  ailment  however  trivial,  as 
 they  consider  solitude  to  be  Nature's  best  nurse 
 and  the  body's  safest  physician.  The  former 
 had  been  arranging  bouquets,  which  are  fresh 
 gathered  every  morning,  as  they  are  never 
 placed  in  water,  and  the  latter  had  been 
 occupied  in  household  duties,  sweeping,  dust- 
 ing, carrying  water,  and  arranging  the  apart- 
 ments. 
 
 The  morning  toilette  began  by  the  slaves 
 bringing  into  the  Grand  Pacha's  room  several 
 small  silver  pans,  not  deeper  than  soup  plates 
 but  considerably  wider,  as  also  several  small 
 pieces  of  rag  and  balls  of  soap.  Their  High- 
 nesses now  squatted  themselves  upon  the  floor 
 and  tucked  up  their  trousers  (I  and  the  Head 
 Eunuch  being  also  present),  and  began  to  wash 
 their  own  feet,  as  they  will  not  allow  a  slave 
 to  touch  them  under  any  circumstances  what- 
 ever, and  they  wiped  them  with  towels.  After 
 which  silver  ewers  and  basins,  similar  in  shape 
 and  size  to  that  which  has  already  been  de- 
 scribed as  being  used  by  the  head  nurse  when 
 dressing  H.  H.  the  Prince,  were  brought  in  by 
 the  slaves.    Then  they  washed  their  faces  with 
 
238 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 pieces  of  rag  which  they  had  previously  well 
 soaped. 
 
 The  slaves  then  held  basins  before  each  of 
 them,  while  others  poured  water  from  the  ewers 
 over  their  hands  as  they  kept  soaping  them, 
 after  which  each  held  basins  before  them  into 
 which  water  was  poured,  and  which  fluid  they 
 threw,  or  more  properly  speaking  jerked,  into 
 their  mouths,  and  then  cleansed  their  teeth 
 (which  were  not  only  irregular  but  much  dis- 
 coloured) with  tooth-brushes  and  powder  of 
 French  manufacture. 
 
 They  only  combed  their  hair  (which  was 
 full  of  vermin)  once  a  week,  on  Thursdays,  the 
 eve  of  their  sabbath,  (Friday,  Djouma,)  when  it 
 is  well  combed  with  a  large  small-tooth  comb ; 
 and,  pardon  me,  but  "  murder  will  out/'  the 
 members  of  the  vermin  family  which  were  re- 
 moved from  it  were  legion  !  It  was  afterwards 
 well  brushed  with  a  hard  hair-brush  well 
 damped  with  strong  perfumed  water.  The 
 tail  at  the  back  was  plaited  and  turned  up 
 round  over  the  handkerchief  with  which  each 
 covered  her  head,  and  fastened  with  small  black 
 dressing  pins  to  the  handkerchief.  Their  High- 
 
DOMESTIC  ARRANGEMENTS. ;  239 
 
 nesses  never  wore  stockings  in  the  morning, 
 nor  did  they  change  any  of  their  attire  till  the 
 afternoon. 
 
 On  Mondays  they  employed  themselves  in 
 cutting  out  pantaloons,  dressing-gowns,  &c. 
 for  their  liege  lord,  which  were  then  given 
 to  the  German  needlewoman  to  make  up ; 
 and  the  slaves  made  up  flannel  things  for 
 themselves,  sitting  on  cushions  laid  down  upon 
 the  carpet.  The  Princesses  attended  to  the 
 domestic  occupations  of  their  own  slaves,  over 
 all  of  whom  they  possess  -the  power  of  life  and 
 death,  but  with  whom  they  live  on  terms  of 
 the  greatest  familiarity,  and  yet  are  at  times 
 most  imperious  and  overbearing  to  them,  so 
 that  their  motto  seems  to  be 
 
 "  Nemo  me  impune  lacessit." 
 
 And  evidently  quite  forget  that 
 
 "  It  is  a  monitory  truth  I  ween, 
 That  turning  up  the  ashes  of  the  grave, 
 One  can  discern  no  difference  between 
 The  richest  sultana  and  the  meanest  slave." 
 
 With  the  cuisine  they  had  nothing  to  do, 
 for,  as  we  have  previously  explained,  it  was 
 
240 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 situated  near  the  barracks,  and  only  men  were 
 employed  therein.  The  Grand  Eunuch  waited 
 upon  them  in  the  morning  to  know  if  they 
 had  any  orders ;  but  that  was  a  mere  matter  of 
 form,  as  I  scarcely  ever  remarked  any  particular 
 change  in  their  diet  or  in  the  number  of  dishes 
 served  up,  during  the  whole  period  of  my  resi- 
 dence at  the  Palace. 
 
 Those  who  performed  the  duties  of  washer- 
 women were  occupied  daily  in  their  avocation, 
 except  on  their  sabbath,  Fridays.  But  that 
 was  not  very  laborious  work,  since  neither  bed, 
 table,  nor  chamber  linen  are  used.  Thus  they 
 were  engaged  until  twelve,  when  their  High- 
 nesses partook  of  their  breakfast  separately. 
 It  was  served  up  on  a  large  green  lacquered 
 tray  minus  table-cloth,  knives  and  forks,  but 
 with  a  large  ivory  tablespoon  having  a  hand- 
 some coral  handle,  the  evident  emblem  of 
 their  rank  as  Princesses.  It  was  placed  upon 
 the  soofra,  "a  low  kind  of  stool,"  covered 
 with  a  handsome  silk  cloth.  The  courses  were 
 similar  to  those  I  have  already  described  as 
 having  been  placed  before  H.  H.  the  Grand 
 Pacha.     That  repast  occupied  about  twenty 
 
OPIUM  PILLS. 
 
 241 
 
 minutes.  Then  Khanum  Kaleouns,  "pipes/* 
 into  which  are  placed  small  pills  of  opium,  or 
 more  often  cigarettes  and  coffee  were  handed 
 to  them,  and  each  Princess  retired  to  her  own 
 apartment.  Thus  they  became  confirmed  opium 
 smokers,  which  produced  a  kind  of  intoxication, 
 but  in  a  less  brutal  or  offensive  form  than  that 
 of  drunkenness,  yet  of  a  much  more  powerful 
 nature. 
 
 Often  times  after  the  Princesses  had  been  in- 
 dulging too  freely  in  that  habit,  to  which  they 
 had  become  slaves,  their  countenances  would 
 assume  most  hideous  aspects ;  their  eyes  glared, 
 their  eyebrows  were  knit  closely  together,  no 
 one  dared  to  approach  them.  In  fact,  they  had 
 all  the  appearance  of  mad  creatures,  while  at 
 other  times  they  were  gay  and  cheerful.  In  short, 
 all  depended  whether,  during  their  kef  "  dolce 
 far  niente,"  they  had  been  transported  in  imagi- 
 nation into  the  seventh  heaven  of  their  paradise, 
 or  had  enjoyed  the  bliss  of  delightful  visions, 
 
 "  When,  as  if  wearied  out  with  toil, 
 And  bruised  with  pains  of  earth's  turmoil, 
 They  for  a  time  in  slumber  deep 
 Lost  themselves  in  dreams  and  sleep." 
 
 VOL.  L  R 
 
242 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Then  they  drunk  off  the  contents  of  a  glass, 
 apparently  filled  with  water.  H.  H.  the  Prin- 
 cess Epouse  had  often  asked  me  to  taste  it ;  in 
 truth,  she  had  so  frequently  solicited  me  to  do 
 so,  that  one  day  I  complied  with  her  request,  as 
 1  was  fearful  she  would  feel  offended  if  I  did 
 not.  I  took  the  proffered  beverage,  and  when 
 I '  put  it  to  my  lips,  guess  my  utter  astonish- 
 ment at  finding  that  it  was  not  water  but 
 wine.  Yes,  actually  and  truly  the  veritable 
 beverage  so  expressly  forbidden  by  the  Prophet. 
 
 I  could  hardly  believe  my  senses,  but  did 
 not  utter  a  syllable,  neither  did  I  attempt  to 
 express  any  surprise,  but  told  Her  Highness 
 that  it  was  very  good, — and  thanked  her.  But 
 subsequently,  when  I  visited  Constantinople,  I 
 learned  that  it  was  Carnabat  wine;  the  Khismet, 
 "fate/'  of  that  extract,  not  to  be  drunk  by 
 Mussulmans,  and  yet  of  which  the  Turks  swal- 
 low most  copious  draughts. 
 
 Then  the  Princesses  took  their  siesta,  as  also 
 did  the  ladies  of  the  Harem  and  the  slaves, 
 who  went  and  hid  themselves  in  the  most  out- 
 of-the-way  places  imaginable.  Shaytan,  the 
 head-nurse,  who  had  no  idea  of  being  disturbed 
 
APPEARANCE  OF  THE  PRINCESS.  2-43 
 
 from  her  "  dreams  of  bliss/'  generally  laid  her- 
 self down  in  the  bed  store-room,  and  sinking 
 down,  literally,  on  her  "  downy  couch,"  fell  off 
 into  the  arms  of  Morpheus  most  happily. 
 
 One  day,  however,  H.  H.  the  Princess  Epouse 
 happened  to  enter  the  Prince's  apartment, 
 clapped  her  hands  several  times,  but  receiving 
 no  response  to  her  Viceregal  summons,  became 
 impatient,  and  passed  into  my  apartment. 
 Then  we  both  began  to  hunt  every  where  for 
 the  head-nurse.  At  length  I  bethought  myself 
 of  the  bed  store-room,  and  leading  Her  High- 
 ness up  to  the  pile  of  mattresses,  showed  her 
 "  the  Sleeping  Beauty  "  in  her  "  bower  of  bliss." 
 But  the  Princess,  who  was  an  Arab,  thinking 
 in  all  probability  that  it  was  a  pity  the 
 "  Sleeping  Beauty"  should  lack  the  "  Beast/' 
 rushed  at  the  nurse  like  a  Tigress,  pulled  her 
 by  the  ears,  and  boxed  her  cheeks  until  her 
 hands  tingled  again. 
 
 Shay  tan  jumped  up  affrighted,  and  looked  at 
 me  with  such  an  evil  eye,  as  if  she  meant  to 
 say 
 
 "  But  never  shalt  thou  know,  destroyer  of  my  sleep, 
 What  I  alone  can  tell,  my  hiding  places  keep." 
 
 R  2 
 
244 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Having  taken  their  siesta,  the  Princesses  rose 
 at  five  in  the  afternoon,  and  performed  their 
 evening  toilette,  which  consisted  in  merely 
 changing  their  outer-garments,  and  attiring 
 themselves  in  neiv  muslin  dresses,  as  they 
 never  wear  them  after  they  have  been  washed ; 
 for  when  crumpled  or  soiled,  they  are  ironed 
 out,  and  when  too  faded,  they  use  them  as 
 morning-wrappers.  The  slaves  also  adopted 
 the  same  plan,  hence  the  consumption  of  cloth- 
 ing of  every  description  was  enormous.  For 
 even  the  Princesses,  as  well  as  both  the  ladies 
 of  the  Harem  and  the  slaves,  lacking  wardrobes, 
 are  obliged  to  keep  them  in  their  sarats, 
 "trunks,"  or  yonks,  "cupboards  in  the  walls," 
 or  else  hang  them  up  suspended  on  lines  across 
 the  rooms ;  like  a  laundress  drying  her  linen  in 
 the  laundry  when  the  weather  will  not  admit 
 of  its  being  hung  out  in  the  open  air.  Silk 
 coverlets  are,  however,  thrown  over  them. 
 
 At  six  o'clock  they  partake  of  their  supper, 
 which  consists  of  the  same  courses,  with  the 
 addition  of  crude  vegetables,  which  they  eat 
 like  beasts  of  the  field,  and  it  is  served  up  in 
 the  same  manner  as  the  breakfast. 
 
AMUSEMENTS. 
 
 245 
 
 Then  their  Highnesses  sometimes  took  a 
 promenade  in  the  small  garden  which  separates 
 H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha's  apartments  from  the 
 Harem  ;  after  which  coffee,  poured  into ftndjans, 
 placed  in  zarfs  studded  with  diamonds  and 
 other  precious  stones,  cigarettes,  and  tchibouks, 
 "  pipes,"  were  served  them. 
 
 At  half-past  seven  the  Princesses  amused 
 themselves  by  playing  at  dominoes,  and  passed 
 the  remainder  of  the  evening  in  having  tales 
 related  to  them,  which  often  comprise  incidents 
 which  had  transpired  in  the  Harems  of  the  late 
 Viceroys,  and  their  widows  or  daughters,  by  the 
 ladies  of  the  Harem,  who  generally  select  the 
 most  lascivious  about  women  and  their  im- 
 moralities. Listening  to  these  stories  may  be 
 seen  the  then  demure  and  solemn-looking  slaves, 
 sitting,  or  more  properly  speaking,  squatting, 
 down  in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  that  emblem  of 
 the  first  quarter  of  that  lovely  luminary  which 
 
 "  Is  a  silver  pin-head  vast 
 That  holds  the  heaven's  tent  hangings  fast," 
 
 during  which  they  are  constantly  sipping  zarfs 
 of  pure  Mocha  coffee,  of  which  they  drink  no 
 
246 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 less  than  twenty-four  daily  (but  then  it  must 
 be  borne  in  mind  that  the  Jindjans  are  not 
 larger  than  an  egg-cup) ;  munching  away  at 
 bonbons,  fruit,  and  most  luscious  sweetmeats, 
 and  smoking  cigarettes. 
 
 Almost  every  slave  has  her  daily  occupation 
 assigned  her,  for  each  Princess  employs  one 
 in  arranging  the  cigarette-papers,  another  in 
 preparing  the  tobacco,  a  third  in  making  the 
 cigarettes,  a  fourth  hands  them  on  a  silver 
 tray,  and  a  fifth  attends  with  the  light,  which 
 consists  of  a  piece  of  live  charcoal  held  between 
 a  pair  of  silver  tongs. 
 
 At  ten  o'clock  they  retire  to  rest ;  but  I  have 
 known  them  remain  as  late  as  eleven,  when 
 H.  H.  the  Princess  Epouse  would,  at  my  request, 
 make  some  of  the  Ethiopian  slaves  sing  their 
 own  melodies.  To  use  a  vulgar  expression, 
 the  London  itinerant  Ethiopian  Serenaders  are 
 fools  to  them ;  their  gesticulations  were  so 
 comic  and  original,  that  none  but  the  writer  of 
 a  comedy,  with  the  pencil  of  Hogarth,  could 
 possibly  have  daguerrotyped  them  as 
 
 "  Their  voices  melody  from  any  man's  is  greater, 
 It  tore  my  ears  as  would  the  scratchings  of  a  grater," 
 
SCENE  IN  THE  STONE  HALL.  247 
 
 and  they  would  have  afforded  Mrs.  Howard 
 Paul  a  most  excellent  subject  for  imitation. 
 
 One  Tuesday,  as  I  was  passing  through  the 
 Stone  Hall  on  the  basement-floor  of  H.  H.  the 
 Grand  Pacha  Ibrahim's  apartments,  I  was  sur- 
 prised by  the  appearance  of  that  apartment, 
 which  served  as  servants'  hall,  the  governess's 
 dining-room,  and  dormitory  of  the  black  slaves 
 — who  are  all  huddled  indiscriminately  together 
 as  in  an  hospital-ward.  It  presented  a  scene 
 which  beggars  all  description ;  for  there  they 
 lay  upon  mattresses  on  the  marble  floor,  with 
 a  large  silver-plated  lanthorn  standing  in  the 
 middle,  in  which  burnt  a  thick  wax  taper.  For 
 H.  H.  the  Viceroy  does  not  allow  what  us 
 Europeans  term  plate  to  be  used  in  his  Vice- 
 regal "  Mansion  of  Bliss,"  at  least  I  never  saw 
 any  thing  of  the  kind  except  the  salvers  which 
 are  used  for  the  service  of  their  Highnesses  the 
 three  wives.  There  they  pass  half  the  night 
 in  smoking  cigarettes,  and  chattering  away  like 
 magpies,  and  telling  stories  to  each  other ; 
 some  talking  Arabic,  others  Turkish,  and  by 
 far  the  greater  portion  their  own  vernacular, 
 especially  the  Greeks,  Circassians,  Nubians, 
 
248 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Abyssinians,  and  Ethiopians.  It  is  a  perfect 
 "  confusion  of  tongues,"  and  it  would  puzzle 
 the  most  learned  European  polyglot  to  interpret 
 their  conversation.  The  echo  of  their  gabbling 
 has  often,  night  after  night,  thrown  me  into  a 
 nervous  fever. 
 
 Well,  on  the  day  in  question,  that  most 
 useful  apartment  was  converted  into  the  Vice- 
 regal laundry,  in  which  I  stopped  a  considerable 
 period  looking  at  the  German  laundry-maid 
 and  her  half-dozen  slave-assistants  ironing. 
 
 On  the  floor  a  square  piece  of  matting  was 
 laid  down,  and  a  large  piece  of  calico  as  big  as 
 two  ordinary  sheets  was  placed  over  it.  Kneeling 
 down  on  it  were  eight  slaves  with  two  rolling- 
 pins,  similar  in  length  and  thickness,  not  an 
 inch  larger  than  those  used  by  cooks  for  making 
 pastry.  After  having  first  damped  the  pieces 
 of  washing,  they  folded  them,  then  rolled  them 
 tight  round  one  of  the  rolling-pins,  which  they 
 laid  down  upon  the  sheet,  and  with  the  other 
 rolling-pin  in  their  hands,  they  kept  rolling  the 
 end  of  it.  For  they  held  it  straight  up  in  their 
 hands  like  a  stick  against  the  other  one  round 
 which  they  had  twisted  the  linen.    This  process, 
 
THE  VICE -REGAL  LAUNDRY.  249 
 
 which  they  called  mangling,  being  finished,  the 
 German  maid  began  ironing  H.  H.  the  Vice- 
 roy s  and  the  Grand  Pacha's  body-linen. 
 
 At  eleven  o'clock  the  Lady  Paramount 
 (H.  H.  the  first  wife),  under  whose  super- 
 intendence the  whole  of  the  household  arrange- 
 ments were  carried  on,  entered  the  laundry. 
 She  smiled  at  seeing  me  and  H.  H.  the  Grand 
 Pacha  watching  the  slaves  at  their  work. 
 
 She  was  both  shoeless  and  stockingless ;  but 
 her  feet  were  encased  in  a  pair  of  polished 
 wooden  clogs,  standing  as  it  were  upon  two 
 wooden  bridges,  like  the  strings  of  a  fiddle. 
 The  parts  on  which  she  rested  her  feet  were 
 lined  with  red  velvet,  the  ties  were  of  the  same 
 material,  and  the  clogs  were  studded  all  round 
 with  silver-headed  nails. 
 
 Her  hair,  hanging  loosely  about,  was  tucked 
 under  the  handkerchief  bound  round  her  head ; 
 and  the  sleeves  of  her  dirty  cotton  wrapper 
 were  turned  up  to  the  shoulders,  and  there 
 tied. 
 
 And  thus  behold  Her  Highness,  the  first 
 wife  of  H.  H.  Ismael  Pacha,  the  richest  prince 
 in  the  universe,  save  His  Imperial  Majesty  the 
 
250 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Emperor  of  All  the  Eussias,  in  her  domestic 
 circle. 
 
 Here  Her  Highness  remained  all  the  live- 
 long day  every  Tuesday,  merely  leaving  the 
 laundry  to  partake  of  her  meals  and  to  indulge 
 in  a  short  siesta. 
 
 Not  a  slave  is  allowed  to  utter  a  syllable. 
 Her  Highness  enforces  the  silent  system  most 
 admirably. 
 
 On  that  same  afternoon,  while  I  was  passing 
 through  the  hall  on  my  return  from  our  ramble 
 in  the  Pavilion  gardens,  I  had  just  time  to  pre- 
 serve the  life  of  my  Prince.  It  appears  a  slave 
 had  been  very  refractory,  and  would  not  re- 
 frain from  chattering.  So,  making  no  more 
 fuss  about  it,  H.  H.  the  Prince  took  up  a 
 shovel,  full  of  burning  charcoal,  and  flung  it 
 into  the  poor  creatures  face,  which  almost 
 killed  her,  several  pieces  of  it  falling  upon  the 
 Prince's  coat,  and  setting  him  in  a  blaze.  For- 
 tunately, I  had  presence  of  mind  to  seize  hold 
 of  a  flannel  petticoat,  which  was  hanging  over 
 one  of  the  washing-tubs  or  troughs,  and,  wrap- 
 ping it  round  His  Highness,  I  extinguished  the 
 flames,  with  no  other  damage  than  the  burning 
 
THE  YOUNG  PRINCESSES  MANGLING.  251 
 
 of  his  uniform  in  several  places.  Had  it  not 
 been  a  very  sultry  day,  or  had  the  evening 
 breeze  set  in  from  the  Nile,  the  Grand  Pacha 
 would  have  fallen  a  victim  to  the  silent  system. 
 
 Her  Highness  the  Lady  Paramount  often 
 scolded  the  German  maid  because  she  did  not 
 act  in  the  same  barbarous  manner ;  but  I  am 
 glad  to  bear  record  that  that  "bore  of  a 
 peasant"  as  she  was,  still  possessed  a  little 
 more  of  the  milk  of  human  kindness  than  did 
 her  Viceregal  mistress. 
 
 None  of  the  other  Princesses  ever  entered 
 the  laundry,  or  superintended  the  re-passenses. 
 Each  of  the  young  Princesses,  H.  H.  the  Vice- 
 roy s  daughters  by  his  wives  (for  there  are  no 
 less  than  twelve  of  the  children  in  the  Harem 
 who  justly  claim  H.  H.  Ismael  Pacha  as  their 
 baba,  and  who  have  themselves  openly  told  me 
 so),  with  the  assistance  of  their  slaves,  get  up 
 their  own  linen  in  their  apartments,  where  a 
 rug  is  laid  down  on  the  floor,  over  which  is 
 placed  a  sheet.  There  they  squat  down  on 
 the  carpet,  and  both  mangle,  in  the  manner  I 
 have  previously  described,  and  iron  their  own 
 linen,  following  the  maternal  example  set  them. 
 
252 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 The  irons  used  are  very  large,  made  in  the 
 shape  of  an  English  box-iron,  with  a  spout  at 
 the  back  of  the  handle,  in  which  live  charcoal 
 is  placed,  which  has  this  advantage,  that  they 
 are  kept  hot  a  very  much  longer  time  than  in 
 the  European  constructed  box-irons. 
 
 Whatever  may  be  said  about  religious  tole- 
 ration in  Egypt,  certain  it  is  that,  while  the 
 inmates  of  the  Harem  always  observed  their 
 religious  rites,  so  as  to  abstain  from  work  on 
 Friday  (their  Sabbath),  yet,  when  first  I  en- 
 tered therein,  I  was  not  permitted  to  enjoy 
 rest  on  my  Sabbath. 
 
RELIGIOUS  TOLERATION.  253 
 
 CHAPTER  XIV. 
 
 I  had  to  battle  for  the  privilege  to  attend 
 Divine  worship ;  as,  being  ignorant  of  the 
 Turkish  habits,  no  stipulation  had  been  in- 
 serted in  my  contract  that  I  should  not 
 labour  on  my  Sabbath-day  (which  Europeans 
 now  take  the  precaution  to  have  done)  ;  but  I 
 eventually  gained  it  Their  Highnesses  never 
 thought  that  "  the  unbeliever  of  Hawajee  "  re- 
 quired such ;  since,  according  to  the  doctrine 
 of  their  creed,  I  had  no  Paradise  assigned  to 
 me  in  heaven ;  and  although  they  believed 
 that 
 
 "  She  only  is  a  true  Moslem  whose  heart  is  just, 
 And  she  a  good  Mahometan  whose  life  is  pure  ;" 
 
 still  they  had  not  the  slightest  idea  that 
 
 "  Seek  right  and  purity  the  faithful  Christian  must, 
 And  this  of  heaven  will  make  the  Pagan  sure 
 
254 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 but  yet,  woman  like,  their  curiosity  was  excited 
 to  learn  how  I  prayed;  and  what  my  Bible 
 (Koran,  as  they  termed  it,)  was  like.  When  I 
 performed  my  devotions  before  them,  and  read 
 aloud  the  Holy  Scriptures,  upon  me  was  fixed 
 many 
 
 "  A  fine  sly  gray  eye, 
 And  a  brown  roguish  one, 
 All  turned  upon  me  their  full  eyes. 
 
 They  behaved  most  decorously ;  not  a  smile, 
 not  a  syllable  was  uttered.  But  when  I  had 
 finished,  a  whole  chorus  of  voices  exclaimed, 
 "  Qaiyis !  quiyis !  "  (Pretty  !  pretty  !)  "  Guzel ! 
 guzel ! "  (Beautiful !  beautiful !)  They  seemed 
 surprised  that  I  did  not  use  any  tusbee  (rosary) 
 like  themselves  and  the  Bomanists ;  but  I  told 
 them  that 
 
 "  A  golden  rosary  she  never  needs, 
 Who  tells  in  love  and  thought  the  spirit's  beads." 
 
 When  in  Cairo,  they  had  often  passed  all 
 the  European  places  of  worship,  and  a  most 
 singular  idea  haunted  their  imagination.  They 
 insisted  that,  unlike  their  own  "call "  to  Even- 
 ing prayer,  when 
 
CALL  TO  PRAYER. 
 
 255 
 
 "  One  silver  crescent  in  the  twilight  sky  is  hanging, 
 Another  tips  the  solemn  dome  of  yonder  mosque, 
 And  then  the  muezzin's  call  is  heard,  sonorous  clanging 
 Through  thronged  bazar,  concealed  harem,  and  cool  kiosk, 
 1  In  the  Prophet's  name,  God  is  God  and  there  is  no  other.' 
 On  roofs,  in  streets,  alone  or  close  beside  his  brother, 
 Each  Moslem  kneels,  his  forehead  turned  towards  Mecca's 
 shrine, 
 
 And  all  the  world  forgotten  in  one  thought  divine." 
 
 Tlie  bells,  the  hated  Giaours'  call  to  prayer, 
 was  the  summons  of  the  Shay  tan  (devil),  the 
 signal  of 
 
 "  That  fallen  angel,  who  had  obtained 
 Supreme  controul  from  heaven  down  to  hell  ; 
 He  all  the  humbler  deities  had  chained, 
 Like  rain  his  cruelties  unmeasured  fell." 
 
 At  first  I  was  quite  at  a  loss  to  interpret  the 
 meaning  of  their  conversation  ;  gradually,  how- 
 ever, I  began  to  understand  them,  but  still  the 
 expression  Shay  tan  perplexed  me,  especially  as 
 that  was  the  patronymic  of  the  Prince  s  head- 
 nurse. 
 
 Her  Highness  the  Princess  Epouse,  perceiv- 
 ing my  embarrassment,  sent  Anina,  the  super- 
 intendent of  the  slaves,  into  my  chamber,  who 
 quickly  returned,  bringing  with  her  my  little 
 silver  hand-bell,  which  I  had  brought  out  from 
 
256 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Europe  with  me,  and  which  stood  upon  one  of 
 my  trunks,  which  I  had  converted  into  a  table, 
 since  it  was  not  until  the  eve  of  my  departure 
 for  Constantinople  that  I  was  supplied  with 
 that  necessary  appendage.  Then  about  fifty 
 slaves  shouted  forth,  Shay  tan !  Shay  tan ! 
 Batal !  Batal !  "  The  Devil !  The  Devil ! 
 Bad  !  Bad  ! — that  is  our  abomination."  I  was 
 absolutely  astonished  at  the  energetic  manner 
 in  which  they  shouted  out,  and  the  demoniacal 
 gestures  they  made  ;  but  maintaining  my  usual 
 equanimity  I  calmly  and  coolly  replied,  that  we 
 Europeans  always  summon  our  domestics  by 
 ringing  a  bell,  just  as  Orientals  call  their  slaves 
 by  clapping  their  hands. 
 
 It  is  almost  impossible  to  imagine  the  celerity 
 with  which  their  Highness  the  Princesses,  the 
 whole  of  the  ladies  of  the  Harem,  and  the 
 slaves,  even  down  to  the  lowest  scullery  girl, 
 effect  their  transformation  from  slatterns  to 
 "  Peris  of  the  East,"  the  instant  that  substitutes 
 for  the  wires  of  the  electric  telegraph  in  the 
 Harem  announce  the  approach  of  H.  H.  Ismael 
 Pacha.  It  seemed  like  a  pantomimic  feat ;  as 
 if  harlequin  with  his  magic  wand  had  touched 
 
THE  TRANSFORMATION. 
 
 257 
 
 them  all  with  his  galvanic  battery,  for  in  the 
 twinkling  of  an  eye  their  dirty,  soiled,  and 
 crumpled  muslins,  their  Monmouth  Street  and 
 Petticoat  Lane  finery  was  exchanged  for  gor- 
 geous silks  and  glittering  diamonds.  The 
 transformation  was  not  effected  like  that  of 
 harlequin,  columbine,  pantaloon,  and  clown, 
 by  a  total  change  of  garments,  but  by  placing 
 them  over  their  habiliments. 
 
 The  scene  was  acted  most  inimitably ;  it 
 would  have  been  an  excellent  study  for  Hogarth, 
 one  to  which  his  pencil  would  have  done 
 ample  justice ;  and  the  clever  inventor  of 
 that  chair-trick,  so  admirably  placed  on  the 
 stage  of  the  Princess's  theatre  during  Charles 
 Keans  able  management,  would  have  repre- 
 sented it  capitally  in  a  pantomime. 
 
 I  had  the  pleasure  one  evening  of  witnessing 
 such  a  scene,  on  the  occasion  of  H.  H.  the 
 Viceroy,  having  informed  his  wives  of  his  in- 
 tention to  pay  them  a  visit.  Of  this,  according 
 to  Turkish  etiquette,  he  was  obliged  to  give 
 them  timely  notice,  lest  any  of  their  female 
 acquaintances  should  happen  to  be  in  the 
 Harem,  or  visitors  expected,  as  no  Turk  ever 
 
 VOL.  L  S 
 
258 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 enters  his  own  "Abode  of  Bliss"  if  his  wives 
 have  visitors  with  them. 
 
 It  has  always  been  asserted  that  no  Turk  has 
 entered  the  Harem  of  his  brother  Mussulman, 
 but  I  know  an  instance  of  an  exception  to  that 
 rule.    On  my  return  to  Alexandria,  previous  to 
 leaving  for  Constantinople,  I  was  located  in 
 the  Harem  facing  His  Highness  s  Palace  of 
 Eas-el-Tin,  where  I  found  great  difficulty  in 
 persuading  any  of  the  young  slaves  to  go  about 
 when  it  became  dusk.    They  assured  me  that 
 there  were  fritz,  "  spirits,"  in  that  Harem,  and, 
 as  an  instance,  related  to  me  that  at  the  time 
 His  Majesty  the  present  Sultan  visited  Egypt 
 after  his  accession  to  the  Throne,  one  evening, 
 when  H.  H.  the  Viceroy  was  in  the  Harem  with 
 his  three  wives  around  him,  a  Ferindjee,  for  it 
 was  His  Majesty  the  Sultan,  dressed  in  Euro- 
 pean costume !  was  seen  sitting  by  his  side. 
 All  the  inmates  of  the  Harem  were  astonished, 
 yet  none  dare  say  a  word.    The  appearance  of 
 that  ghost,  as  the  little  slaves,  His  Highness's 
 daughters  by  his  concubines,  called  His  Majesty 
 the  Sultan,  (for  it  could  be  no  other  personage,) 
 so  frightened  them  that  they  have  never  for- 
 
THE  GHOST. 
 
 259 
 
 gotten  the  circumstance,  and  in  all  probability 
 never  will ;  and  the  sudden  disappearance  of  a 
 pretty  slave  soon  afterwards  left  no  doubt,  but 
 that  she  was  spirited  away  to  Constantinople. 
 The  Sultan  intended  to  do  them  the  honour  of 
 partaking  of  their  hospitality,  yclept  to  dine,  in 
 the  Harem,  an  event  of  some  moment,  as  such 
 occurrences  were,  previous  to  my  arrival,  "  Like 
 angels'  visits,  few  and  far  between." 
 
 On  this,  as  on  all  occasions  when  their 
 Highnesses  had  to  dress  to  receive  visitors,  or 
 on  any  particular  festivals,  such  as  the  Bairam, 
 (when  they  were  attired  in  magnificent  courtly 
 costumes,  and  wore  jewels  that  would  have 
 been  the  ransom  of  au  Empress),  they  asked 
 my  opinion  of  their  costume,  the  manner  in 
 which  they  had  adorned  themselves  with  those 
 priceless  jewelled  "  gems  of  art,"  which  they 
 never  wore  except  on  such  occasions,  and  when 
 the  "  Baba  "  came  to  visit  them,  the  ladies  of 
 the  Harem  and  slaves,  as  on  this  evening. 
 
 They  are  well  trained  in  the  art  of  hoarding, 
 for  they  are  extremely  careful  of  their  ward- 
 robes, and  those  I  have  already  described  as 
 shuffling  about  on  ordinary  occasions  in  such 
 
 S  2 
 
260 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 crumpled  gaudy-coloured  finery  (as  we  are  ac- 
 customed in  England  to  see  strolling  actresses 
 bedizen  themselves  at  the  theatres  at  country 
 fairs),  make  themselves  beautiful  with  cosmetics, 
 the  use  of  which  they  understand  quite  as  well 
 as  any  Madame  Rachel  of  European  celebrity. 
 They  wore  the  most  costly  silks,  richest  satins, 
 and  softest  velvets ;  adorned  themselves  with 
 the  treasures  of  their  jewel-caskets,  so  that 
 their  persons  were  one  blaze  of  precious  stones. 
 That  crescent  of  females  (for  they  always 
 ranged  themselves  in  the  form  of  the  Turkish 
 symbol)  was  then  a  parterre  of  diamonds, 
 amethysts,  topazes,  turquoise,  chrysoberyls, 
 sapphires,  jaspers,  opals,  agates,  emeralds, 
 corals,  rich  carbuncles,  rubies,  &c. ;  altogether 
 my  sight  was  absolutely  dazzled  with 
 
 "  All  that  can  the  female  heart  delight 
 Of  fair  attire,  the  meanest  drudge  displays, 
 And  all  that  gold  can  purchase  the  eye  surveys." 
 
 In  short,  the  profusion  of  diamonds  with 
 which  the  latter  adorned  their  persons  from 
 day  to  day,  became  so  sickening  to  me,  that 
 my  eyes  were  weary  at  the  sight  of  those  mag- 
 
DISPLAY  OF  JEWELS. 
 
 261 
 
 nificent  baubles,  to  which  all  women  are  so 
 passionately  attached 
 
 It  seemed  to  me  quite  a  monstrosity,  an 
 absolute  sin,  that  such  immense  wealth  should 
 be  expended  on  those  brilliant  gewgaws, 
 merely  to  sparkle  on  the  tawny  and  ebony 
 skins  of  slaves,  many  of  whom  were  repulsive 
 in  their  looks ;  and  whose  habits,  manners, 
 customs,  and  appearance  in  general,  were 
 totally  repugnant  to  European  feelings. 
 
 It  was  bad  enough  in  all  conscience  to  be- 
 hold the  white  oustas,  "  slaves,"  bedecked  with 
 gems  of  almost  priceless  value,  many  of  whose 
 sarui-Sj  "trunks,"  contained  parures  far  more 
 valuable  than  most  of  the  elegant  gems  of  art 
 which  ornament  the  jewel-cases  of  the  noblest 
 and  wealthiest  of  the  lovely  beauties  of  the 
 European  Courts ;  but  to  know  that  upwards  of 
 from  30,000/.  to  40,000/.  was  annually  expended 
 by  the  billionaire  of  the  world,  who  much  of 
 his  surplus  wealth 
 
 "  For  Cupid's  sake  he  gave  away, 
 For  bags  of  gold  came  to  the  Harem  every  day," 
 
 in  jewels  for  distribution  among  such  a  motley 
 group  was  indeed  monstrous. 
 
262 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 As  all  gallant  knights  were  excluded  from 
 the  precincts  of  this  Castle  of  Indolence,  such 
 a  lavish  profusion  of  wealth  I  could  not  un- 
 riddle, except  that  they  were  offered  up  as 
 sacrifices  on  the  altar  of  that  immaculate 
 sovereign  ruler  Prince  Baksheesh.  I  could 
 perfectly  well  understand  the  pleasure  which 
 H.  H.  Ismael  Pacha  felt,  since 
 
 "  He  possesses  more  than  the  wealth  of  Crcesus  old  ; 
 In  bestowing  on  his  wives  as  many  diamonds  bright 
 As  dewy  leaves  that  sparkle  in  the  summer's  light, 
 Or  golden  sands  o'er  which  the  deep  hath  rolled." 
 
 by  purchasing  the  treasures  of  the  mines  of 
 Golconda,  Peru,  Brazil  and  California,  the 
 rivers  of  India,  the  sands  of  Arabia,  Abyssinia 
 and  Soudan,  the  depths  of  the  Arabian  Gulf, 
 and  in  expending  vast  sums  in  the  purchase  of 
 those  valuables  which  the  collectors  of  precious 
 stones,  the  wealthy  diamond  merchants  of  Con- 
 stantinople, and  the  expert  divers  for  pearls 
 had  procured;  because,  at  his  death,  those  price- 
 less "  gems  of  art,"  into  which  the  genius  of 
 man  had  converted  those  valuable  stones  (small 
 caskets  filled  with  them  being  treasured  up  by 
 almost  every  member,  both  young  and  old,  of 
 
THE  PRINCESSES'  TREASURES.  263 
 
 the  Viceregal  family),  constitute  the  sole  private 
 fortune  of  their  possessors,  except  the  quantity 
 of  paras,  as  they  term  the  packets  of  Napoleons, 
 Turkish,  Egyptian  or  English  sovereigns.  The 
 latter  of  these  they  prefer,  for  the  best  of  all 
 reasons,  because  they  are  the  iveightiest.  They 
 have  been  provident  enough 
 
 "  To  have  in  those  rich  ebony  caskets  stocked, 
 Where  all  their  wealth  on  earth  is  safely  locked." 
 
 And  I  can  understand  why  His  Highness 
 displays  such  liberality  to  his  consorts,  for  no 
 one  knows  better  than  the  Viceroy  Ismael 
 Pacha  how  the  families  of  defunct  rulers  of 
 Egypt  have  been  despoiled  both  of  their  per- 
 sonal property  and  hereditary  possessions.  But 
 I  never  could  solve  why  such  valuables  were 
 presented  to  the  slaves  of  all  denominations. 
 
 I  will  now  describe  the  Viceregal  dinner 
 party.  The  courses  were  the  same  as  those 
 partaken  of  by  their  Highnesses  when  alone, 
 with  the  addition  of  a  roast  turkey,  soup 
 extremely  rich,  entremets,  and  some  pastry. 
 It  was  laid  out  in  H.  H.  the  Viceroy  s  private 
 sitting-room  in  the  "  Abode  of  Bliss,"  which  was 
 
264 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 similarly  decorated  and  furnished  as  that  in 
 the  pavilion.  In  the  centre  stood  a  moderately- 
 sized  dining-table,  which  was  covered  with  a 
 table-cloth,  the  first  and  only  time  that  I  ever 
 saw  such  appendage  used  in  the  Harem.  White 
 slaves,  dressed  en  grande  toilette,  brought  the 
 dishes  up  on  large  silver  trays,  placed  them 
 upon  the  floor,  then  handed  them  to  their 
 Highnesses  the  Princesses  according  to  their 
 rank.  The  Lady  Paramount  taking  precedence 
 set  the  first  dish  upon  the  table ;  all  of  them 
 stood  in  attendance  upon  H.  H.  Ismael  Pacha, 
 while  I  and  the  Grand  Pacha  sat  upon  a  divan 
 playing  at  dominoes. 
 
 After  the  Viceroy  had  finished  his  repast,  to 
 which  he  appeared  to  do  ample  justice,  being  a 
 bon  vivajit,  the  Princesses  set  themselves  down 
 upon  cushions  which  had  been  placed  upon  the 
 carpet,  and  partook  of  their  dinner  separately 
 off  soofras.  H.  H.  Ismael  Pacha  then  amused 
 himself  by  smoking  cheroots  and  playing  at 
 dominoes  with  whichever  of  his  wives  he  took 
 it  into  his  head  to  select;  coffees,  weetmeats  and 
 sherbet  being  handed  round,  as  is  customary. 
 
THE  PRINCE'S  HAIR. 
 
 265 
 
 H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha  and  I  salaamed  the 
 Viceroy,  and  I  retired. 
 
 A  few  days  afterwards  the  little  Prince 
 having  complained  of  a  violent  headache,  I 
 informed  Her  Highness  that  it  would  be 
 advisable  to  send  for  the  hairdresser  to  cut 
 his  hair. 
 
 "  Malesch  !  Malesch !  Madam,"  replied  the 
 Princess,  "  you  can  easily  do  it  yourself." 
 
 Following  her  instructions  I  cut  the  Prince's 
 hair,  every  single  atom  of  which  was  most 
 carefully  picked  up  off  the  ground,  placed  in 
 a  large  sheet  of  white  paper  with  a  quantity  of 
 white  pebbles,  and  cast  from  a  window  into  the 
 Nile,  where  an  Arab,  standing  up  in  a  boat, 
 knocked  it  three  times  under  the  water,  ex- 
 claiming each  time,  Bismillah!  Bismillah! 
 "  In  the  name  of  the  merciful  God !  In  the 
 name  of  the  merciful  God !  "  If  it  floats,  which 
 it  did  not,  owing  to  the  stones  tied  up  in  the 
 paper,  which  had  also  been  well  saturated  in 
 water,  evil  is  prognosticated  to  the  boy ;  if  it 
 sinks  (which  as  a  matter  of  course  it  did),  then 
 it  is  looked  upon  as  a  good  omen. 
 
 It  was  often  quite  ludicrous  to  behold  their 
 
266 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Highnesses  the  Princesses,  who  could  neither 
 r^ad  nor  write,  the  ladies  of  the  Harem,  and 
 slaves,  as  they  came  shuffling  into  my  small 
 room,  and  which  was  frequently  crammed  full 
 of  them,  to  ask  my  opinion  of  nearly  every- 
 thing they  received. 
 
 If  the  Princesses  had  opened  any  boxes  of 
 new  dress-pieces  they  had  had  brought  up  into 
 the  Audience-hall,  they  handed  them  to  me,  at 
 the  same  time  appealing  to  my  taste  to  decide 
 whether  they  were  quiyis,  "pretty,"  or  bcUal, 
 "  ugly/'  and  my  verdict  was  final.  The  instant 
 that  any  of  the  slaves  received  presents  from 
 their  Highnesses,  they  came  and  showed  them 
 to  me,  almost  stunning  me  with  the  same  in- 
 terrogatories. If,  as  frequently  happened,  I 
 examined  the  dress-pieces  and  found  them 
 damaged  (for  many  of  the  boxes  contained  the 
 last  year  s  fashions),  some  of  the  pieces  soiled, 
 and  others  deficient  in  quantity  (for  having 
 been  purchased  in  that  condition  they  had  been 
 obtained  at  -cheap  rates),  I  condemned  them, 
 when  the  recipients  returned  them  to  the  Prin- 
 cesses, who  bestowed  others  upon  them. 
 
 In  short,  the  whole  of  the  inmates  of  the 
 
THE  GOVERNESS  AN  ORACLE.  267 
 
 Harem  soon  began  thoroughly  to  appreciate 
 my  European  ways  and  habits  in  many  respects. 
 If  they  were  taken  ill  they  consulted  me,  fol- 
 lowed my  remedies,  and  did  their  best,  poor 
 ignorant,  deluded,  and  neglected  creatures,  to 
 abandon  any  habits  which  I  explained  to  them 
 were  repugnant  to  delicacy,  especially  when 
 I  told  them  that  such  were  not  d  la  Franqa, 
 "  European."  They  all  had  become  so  attached 
 to  me  before  I  left  for  Constantinople  that,  from 
 their  Highnesses  the  Princesses  down  to  the 
 very  Mihtur,  "  sweeper,"  all  treated  me  with  the 
 greatest  kindness,  attention,  and  respect,  which 
 enabled  me  to  gain  that  insight  into  their 
 sayings  and  doings  without  which  it  would 
 have  been  utterly  impossible  for  me  to  remain 
 within  the  walls  of  the  Harem.  But  perhaps, 
 kind  reader,  you  will  say, 
 
 "  How  hast  thou  so  profound  a  lore  attained  ?" 
 
 My  reply  is, 
 
 '  To  ask  another  I  was  ne'er  ashamed 
 
 and  then,  amidst  all  my  discomfiture,  I  took  care 
 to  dot  down  every  occurrence  in  my  Journal, 
 for  well  did  I  know  that 
 
268 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 "  Ideas  quickly  fade  and  often  vanish  quite  out 
 Of  the  understanding,  leaving  no  more  footsteps 
 Or  remaining  characters  of  themselves,  than 
 Shadows  do  flying  over  a  field  of  corn  f 
 
 and  I  adopted  the  precaution  to  abstain  from 
 appearing  to  take  the  least  notice  of  their  sin- 
 gular habits,  and,  to  me,  outlandish  customs.  I 
 was  careful  never  to  incur  their  jealousy.  I 
 showed  all  their  Highnesses  the  same  attention, 
 made  them  presents  of  the  same  things,  ab- 
 stained from  passing  the  slightest  remark  upon 
 anything  I  heard  or  saw — unless  the  Princesses, 
 ladies  of  the  Harem,  slaves,  or  eunuchs,  which 
 not  unfrequently  happened,  drew  my  atten- 
 tion to  any  particular  object — then,  when 
 asked,  but  not  otherwise,  I  candidly  gave 
 them  my  opinion,  at  which  they  never  seemed 
 offended. 
 
 Thus  I  gained  their  respect,  esteem,  con- 
 fidence, and,  what  was  everything  to  a  person 
 in  my  critical  position,  their  protection ;  and 
 in  this  way  I  obtained  my  object,  consequently 
 I  became  no  stranger  to  them,  and  the  terms  of 
 familiarity  in  which  I  stood  with  them  afforded 
 me  the  opportunity  of  seeing  the  Odalisques  as 
 
THE  ODAUSQUES. 
 
 269 
 
 no  European  lady  has  ever  done  or  is  ever 
 likely  to  do  again,  what  we  emphatically  call 
 —"At  home." 
 
 As  to  the  ladies  of  the  Harem  and  the 
 slaves,  I  kept  them  at  a  most  respectful  dis- 
 tance, not  daring  to  allow  them  any  approach 
 to  freedom  ;  no,  not  even  so  much  as  we  English 
 people  permit  our  domestics.  Neglect  or  want 
 of  respect  was  never  tolerated  for  a  moment. 
 I  invariably  maintained  the  greatest  reserve, 
 remembering  the  Oriental  proverb  which  I  had 
 read  in  Alger's  "  Poetry  of  the  East  "  : — 
 
 "  Do  thou  thy  precious  secrets  to  no  other  lend  : 
 Thy  friend  another  has  :  beware  of  thy  friend's  friend," 
 
 and  by  so  doing  I  acted  judiciously;  for 
 well  did  I  know  that  the  Greeks  and  Germans 
 in  the  Harem  were  the  emissaries  of  parties 
 who  were  then  doing  their  utmost  to  surround 
 H.  H.  the  Viceroy  with  creatures  of  their  own. 
 Of  course  this  was  done  from  private  as  well 
 as  political  motives,  for  whenever  did  Prussians 
 lose  the  opportunity  of  supplanting  English 
 influence  ? 
 
 It  was  not  long  before  I  had  the  opportunity 
 
270 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 of  witnessing  H.  H.  the  First  Wife  at  her 
 orisons.    Just  at  that  moment 
 
 "  When  sunsets  to  the  firmament  serene 
 The  mighty  Nile  reflects  a  gorgeous  scene  ; 
 Broad  in  the  cloudless  west  a  belt  of  gold 
 Girds  the  blue  hemisphere .  .  .  ." 
 
 I  and  the  Prince  entered  Her  Highness's 
 chamber.  She  was  engaged  spreading  a 
 very  large  handsome  Persian  carpet,  or,  more 
 properly  speaking,  rug,  in  the  centre  of  the 
 room.  Then  she  knelt  down,  turned  her  face 
 towards  Mecca,  and  repeated  her  Namaz, 
 "  prayers."  On  her  head  she  wore  a  long  white 
 m  uslin  scarf ;  in  her  hand  she  held  a  string  of 
 large  gold  beads,  here  and  there  interspersed 
 with  several  diamond  ones,  which  precious 
 ones  count  as  two,  and  which  she  counted 
 like  a  monk  telling  off  his  rosary,  exclaiming 
 all  the  while,  "  Allah  !  Allah  !  Illah-as-la- 
 Illah  il  Allah ! "  "  There  is  no  deity  but 
 God,"  but  being  a  Princess  she  never  performed 
 the  Souddond,  the  bowing  of  the  head  on 
 the  ground. 
 
 H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha,  whose  powers  of 
 
THE  FIRST  WIFE  AT  PRAYERS. 
 
 271 
 
 imitation  are  wonderfully  acute,  frequently  in- 
 terrupted Her  Highness,  who,  smiling  good- 
 humouredly  at  him,  threatened  to  box  his  ears, 
 at  which  the  little  Prince  only  laughed,  and 
 kept  kneeling  on  the  rug,  bowing  his  head  to 
 the  floor  in  genuine  Moslem  style. 
 
 It  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  that  I 
 could  refrain  from  being  guilty  of  a  breach  of 
 decorous  propriety.    Fortunately,  however,  the 
 Princess  did  not  remain  long  at  her  Namaz. 
 After  she  had  finished  she  folded  up  her  rug, 
 and  placing  the  scarf  and  beads  in  it,  put 
 them  into  a  sarat.    Then  a  slave  handed  her 
 a  superbly  ornamented  tchibouk.    The  mouth- 
 piece was  of  clear,  transparent  amber,  and  the 
 rosewood   stem  was  thickly  encrusted  with 
 precious  stones  of  great  value.    It  must  have 
 been  worth  from  1,000Z.  to  1,500Z.    The  bowl 
 was  filled  with  golden  leaf  tobacco,  and  a  small 
 piece  of  some  narcotic,  the  name  of  which  I 
 never  learnt,  of  a  bright  rose-pink  colour,  was 
 placed  in  it,  which  Her  Highness  continued  to 
 smoke  with  considerable  zest. 
 
 A  short  time  previous  to  our  departure  for 
 
272 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Alexandria,  at  the  commencement  of  the  hot 
 season,  one  of  His  Highness  s  daughters,  who 
 resided  with  The  Valide  Princess,  his  mother, 
 the  widow  of  the  gallant  Ibrahim  Pacha,  died  ; 
 and  owing  to  her  demise  the  whole  of  the 
 Viceregal  family  shut  themselves  up  in  their 
 own  private  apartments  for  three  days.  During 
 this  period  they  received  no  visitors,  and 
 would  not  allow  even  their  own  children  nor 
 any  of  the  slaves  to  approach  them.  Their 
 meals  were  placed  at  the  doors  of  their  rooms, 
 of  which  they  hastily  partook,  and  then  retired 
 into  their  solitude. 
 
 The  divans  were  covered  with  lavender- 
 coloured  satin,  fringed  with  a  deep  border  of 
 silver  lace,  the  cushions  of  which  bad  black 
 gauze  handkerchiefs,  bespangled  and  fringed 
 with  silver  lace,  thrown  over  them.  On  their 
 heads  they  wore  black  handkerchiefs.  Their 
 persons  were  attired  in  lavender  satin  quilted 
 iackets,  and  white  linen  dresses. 
 
 When  the  sad  intelligence  of  the  young 
 Princess's  death  reached  their  Highnesses  the 
 Princesses,  the  three  wives,  together  with  the 
 
DEATH  IN  THE  PALACE.  273 
 
 whole  of  their  establishments,  squatted  them- 
 selves down  upon  the  floor,  and  absolutely 
 set  to  howling  like  wild  beasts. 
 
 At  first  I  thought  they  had  all  gone  demented, 
 H.H.  the  Grand  Pacha,  who  was  almost  fright- 
 jened  out  of  his  senses  by  the  uproar,  in  his 
 haste  to  see  what  was  the  matter,  tripped  up 
 against  one  of  the  little  female  slaves  belonging 
 to  his  staff.  This  slave  I  subsequently  learnt 
 was  also  one  of  the  daughters  of  H.  H.  the 
 Viceroy,  who  has  no  less  than  fourteen  children, 
 four  of  whom  are  sons,  the  eldest  being  about 
 twelve  years  old.  These  children  reside  at 
 another  place,  under  the  care  of  a  French 
 tutor,  but  my  Prince  was  the  only  legitimate 
 one.  The  Prince  fell  sprawling  on  the  carpet. 
 A  glass  of  water  was  immediately  brought  in 
 by  the  head-nurse,  who,  sprinkling  some  over 
 his  face,  exclaimed,  "  Bismallah !  Bismallah ! " 
 ("  in  the  name  of  the  most  merciful  God ! ") 
 and  then  threw  the  contents  of  the  glass  upon 
 the  spot  where  His  Highness  had  fallen. 
 
 Singular  to  add,  H.H.  the  Viceroy,  whose 
 presence  in  the  Harem  had  not,  contrary  to 
 Turkish  etiquette,  been  announced,  entered  the 
 
 VOL.  I.  T 
 
274 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 audience-hall,  and,  looking  round  at  the  little 
 Prince,  burst  out  into  a  hearty  laugh  at  the 
 child's  discomfiture  and  my  endeavours  to 
 pacify  him ;  but  seemed  highly  amused  at  the 
 solemn  manner  in  which  Shaytan  performed 
 her  superstitious  observance. 
 
DISREGARD  OF  ETIQUETTE.  275 
 
 CHAPTEK  XV. 
 
 I  have  already  given  an  instance  that  H.H. 
 Ismael  Pacha  is  a  prince  who  acts  upon  the 
 spur  of  the  moment,  and  does  not  adhere  to 
 the  rigidity  of  Turkish  etiquette,  as  he  very 
 often  entered  the  Harem  without  giving  any 
 notice  of  his  approach. 
 
 One  day,  after  I  had  returned  from  my 
 morning  walk  with  H.H.  the  Grand  Pacha,  I 
 enquired  of  H.H.  the  Princess  Epouse  where 
 I  could  find  the  Lady  Paramount.  Upon  being 
 told  that  Her  Highness  was  in  the  bath-room, 
 the  atmosphere  of  which  was  almost  suffocating, 
 I  proceeded  thither,  knocked  at  the  door,  and 
 entered,  but  almost  as  quickly  drew  back, 
 not  until,  however,  I  had  perceived  H.H.  the 
 Viceroy  seated  on  a  divan,  dressed  in  his 
 pyjamas  "  drawers." 
 
 T  2 
 
276 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 He  was  attended  by  a  complete  bevy  of 
 women ;  for,  like  His  Majesty  the  Sultan, 
 females  always  assist  at  his  toilette  when  he 
 visits  the  Harem.  Her  Highness,  the  first  wife, 
 and  several  of  his  ikbals,  "  favourite  slaves,"  were 
 acting  as  his  valets  :  they  also  put  on  his  shoes 
 or  boots,  stockings,  fan  away  the  mosquitoes, 
 and  watch  him  as  he  slumbers,  for  no  others 
 can  attend  upon  him.  Of  them  he  may  have 
 as  many  as  he  likes ;  but  were  he  to  take  a 
 fancy  to  any  of  the  slaves  belonging  to  either 
 of  his  wives,  even  though 
 
 "  Her  eyes  were  sapphires  set  in  snow 
 Refining  heaven  by  ever  wink  ;" 
 
 the  Princesses  could  obtain  a  divorce,  and  marry 
 again.  For  among  the  Ottomans,  the  prince  as 
 well  as  the  peasant  is  amenable  in  this  respect 
 to  the  laws  laid  down  in  the  Koran,  in 
 which  the  injunction  respecting  a  plurality  of 
 wives  runs  thus  :  "  You  may,  if  you  like,  marry 
 two,  three,  and  even  four  women."  And  that 
 favourite's  life  would  not  be  worth  an  hour  s 
 purchase.  This  has  lately  been  clearly  shown  by 
 the  fact,  that  a  princess,  one  of  the  near  relatives 
 
PLURALITY  OF  WIVES. 
 
 277 
 
 of  His  Majesty  the  Sultan,  having  suspected — 
 nay,  discovered — that  her  husband  had  had 
 an  intrigue  with  one  of  her  slaves,  had  the  un- 
 fortunate creature's  head  cut  off  by  her  Grand 
 Eunuch,  placed  it  upon  a  dish,  covered  it  over 
 with  a  cloth  of  gold,  and  served  it  up  to 
 him. 
 
 As  she  was  of  royal  blood,  her  husband  was 
 in  point  of  rank  her  slave,  so  that  Her  Highness 
 did  not  wait  upon  him  at  his  meals. 
 
 As  soon  as  he  sat  down  at  the  zoofra,  he 
 drank  off  a  cup  of  sherbet,  as  was  his  custom, 
 which  had  been  poisoned ;  and  when  the  dish 
 was  uncovered,  he  stared  wildly  at  the  gory 
 head,  and  dropped  down  dead.  Nothing  was 
 done  to  Her  Highness  the  Princess ;  and  I  can 
 affirm  that  any  Turkish  woman  Avould  have 
 recourse  to  that  expedient,  upon  receiving  the 
 same  amount  of  provocation.  It  is  dangerous, 
 as  the  Proverb  says,  "  to  play  with  edged  tools," 
 but  doubly  so  within  the  mysterious  walls  of 
 a  Viceregal  Harem. 
 
 Well,  to  continue  my  description  of  His 
 Highness  in  his  bath-room,  all  I  saw  was,  that 
 the  Lady  Paramount  and  several  IJcbals  were 
 
278 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 drying  his  ViceregaTs  person  with  bath-towels. 
 His  Highness  smiled,  exclaimed  "  Approchez, 
 approchez,  madame."  But  I  let  go  the  Grand 
 Pacha's  hand,  who  advanced  towards  his  august 
 parent,  then  curtsied,  and  retired. 
 
 That  same  day,  when  H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha 
 returned  from  the  bath-room,  the  head-nurse, 
 according  to  her  habitual  custom,  took  him 
 into  his  .apartment  to  change  his  uniform ; 
 upon  which  occasion  she  rifled  his  pockets  and 
 reaped  a  golden  harvest,  as  the  Viceroy  had 
 emptied  several  purses  of  small  gold  Egyptian 
 coins  into  his  pockets,  telling  him  that  there 
 was  plenty  of  baksheesh  for  him  to  give  his 
 governess. 
 
 I  should  have  taken  no  notice  of  this  cir- 
 cumstance, and,  in  fact,  have  known  nothing 
 about  it,  had  not  Shaytan  asked  me  to  give  her 
 my  tin  cash-box,  which  was  a  moderate-sized 
 one,  such  as  is  generally  used  by  ladies  when 
 residing  on  the  Continent. 
 
 I  was  rather  astonished  at  her  presumption 
 in  making  such  a  demand.  However,  being 
 anxious  to  learn  what  had  caused  her  to  make 
 that  request,  I  asked  her  what  she  wanted  it 
 
THE  HEAD  NURSE'S  HARVEST.  279 
 
 for.  Leading  me  into  her  room,  she  opened 
 her  sarat,  "trunk,"  and,  guess  my  surprise, 
 when  she  took  out  an  English  workbox,  all  the 
 compartments  of  which  had  been  removed,  and 
 I  saw  that  it  ay  as  as  full  as  ever  it  could  hold 
 of  napoleons,  half  napoleons,  gold  five  franc 
 pieces,  Turkish,  Egyptian,  and  English  sove- 
 reigns ;  in  short,  she  had  the  greatest  difficulty 
 in  lifting  it  out  of  the  trunk.  It  was  fastened 
 or  bound  with  thin  cord,  was  very  heavy,  and 
 must  have  contained  several  hundred  pounds ; 
 in  short,  it  was  so  full  that  it  could  contain  no 
 more.    All  was  packed  in  rolls  closely  together. 
 
 Then  she  showed  me  several  hundred  of  the 
 smallest  gold  Egyptian  coins  which  have  ever 
 been  put  in  circulation.  They  were  about  the 
 size  of  an  ordinary  gold  pencil-case  seal,  and  as 
 thin  as  a  wafer  cut  into  two  slices.  As  they 
 were  all  new,  I  inquired  of  her  by  what  means 
 she  became  possessed  of  them ;  and  then  I 
 learned  the  trick  she  had  played  me.  Taking 
 no  notice,  for  baksheesh  had  always  been 
 her  perquisite  prior  to  my  arrival  in  the 
 Harem,  I  declined  to  give  her  my  cash-box, 
 which  I  could  not  conveniently  spare,  but 
 
280 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 handed  her  a  tin  tooth-powder  box  out  of  my 
 dressing-case,  into  which  she  placed  her  pur- 
 loinings,  and  salaamed  me  for  the  gift. 
 
 This  circumstance  naturally  led  me  to  en- 
 quire what  became  of  the  slaves'  hoards  after 
 their  decease ;  and  I  was  told,  (but  I  can 
 scarcely  believe  it,)  that  it  was  expended  in 
 what  they  term  giving  them  "  a  grand  funeral 
 that  is,  in  paying  for  torches  and  hiring  a 
 vast  concourse  of  professional  mourners,  as  is 
 customary  in  Egypt,  to  cry  most  bitterly  over 
 the  body  at  the  interment.  But  I  should  rather 
 think  that  the  bulk  of  their  savings  found 
 its  way  into  the  coffers  of  the  Kislar  Ayaci's 
 iron  chest,  as  he  has  to  superintend  their 
 obsequies. 
 
 Scarcely  had  this  little  incident  occurred 
 than  the  Grand  Eunuch  entered  the  apartment, 
 and  informed  me  that  I  was  to  accompany 
 H.  H.  the  Grand  Pacha  on  board  the  Ibis 
 yacht,  as  H.  H.  the  Viceroy  had  placed  that 
 steamer  at  the  disposal  of  the  Princesses  to 
 convey  them  on  an  excursion  up  the  Nile. 
 
 Hurrying  on  my  hat  and  cloak,  I  took  the 
 Grand  Pacha  down  to  the  landing-place,  where 
 
EXCURSION  OX  THE  NILE. 
 
 281 
 
 we  all  embarked  in  barges,  and  were  quickly 
 rowed  to  the  yacht,  whose  steam  was  up. 
 There  I  found  their  Highnesses  assembled  on 
 the  deck,  under  the  spacious  awning,  squatting 
 on  the  divans,  smoking  cigarettes,  and  looking 
 the  very  picture  of  delight  at  the  idea  of 
 enjoying  a  picnic  on  the  bosom  of  the  far- 
 famed  Nile. 
 
 Soon  I  found  that  it  was  to  be  a  general 
 treat ;  for,  on  looking  round,  I  found  that  the 
 whole  of  the  inmates  of  the  "  Abode  of  Bliss/' 
 ladies  of  the  Harem,  and  slaves,  even  to  the 
 meanest,  were  on  board.  Their  meals  were 
 prepared  for  them,  just  as  if  they  had  been  in 
 their  gilded  cage.  There  they  smoked,  sipped 
 their  coffee,  enjoyed  their  kef,  and  appeared  to 
 pass  their  time  most  agreeably.  And  I  should 
 have  enjoyed  the  trip  myself,  had  I  not  been 
 frightened  at  the  manner  in  which  the  captain 
 of  the  steamer,  (a  Turkish  officer,  who  spoke 
 English  very  well,)  gratified  the  singular  whim 
 of  my  Prince,  the  Grand  Pacha  Ibrahim,  who 
 on  this  occasion,  as  on  several  others  I 
 have  already  mentioned,  evinced  an  innate 
 cruelty  of  disposition  which  appears  to  charac- 
 
282 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 terise  the  descendants  of  the  renowned  Mahomet 
 Ali.  Still,  I  cannot  but  think  that  he  might 
 have  been  taught  to  be  merciful,  had  not  bad 
 example  been  set  him. 
 
 I  remember,  when  first  taking  charge  of 
 him,  that  I  had  great  difficulty  to  make  him 
 mind  me  when  checking  any  of  his  bad  pro- 
 pensities. One  day,  when  Her  Highness,  his 
 mother,  was  sitting  on  the  divan,  and  he  would 
 not  obey  me  in  something,  she  took  hold  of  his 
 hand,  and  then  taking  a  diamond  pin  out  of  her 
 hair,  she  pricked  him  gently  with  it,  at  the 
 same  time  explaining  to  me  that  that  was  the 
 manner  in  which  I  was  to  punish.  I  looked 
 at  her,  said  not  a  word,  but  nodded  my  head. 
 Thus  the  Prince  himself  was  taught  to  be  cruel 
 to  others,  which  may,  in  some  degree,  account 
 for  that  characteristic  in  him. 
 
 I  never  did  correct  His  Highness  in  that' 
 manner,  but  one  day,  when  I  requested  him 
 to  discontinue  a  very  bad  habit  he  had  of 
 forcing,  as  it  were,  his  fingers  up  his  nose, 
 which  caused  it  to  swell,  and  which  would,  if 
 persisted  in,  have  made  his  nasal  orgal  un- 
 seemingly  wide.    He  rose  up  from  the  cushion, 
 
INFLUENCE  OF  A  HAIR  PIX.  283 
 
 upon  which  he  was  seated,  stood  quite  upright, 
 as  if  he  had  been  on  drill,  and  drawing  his 
 figure  to  its  full  height,  he  stamped  his  little 
 foot  upon  the  floor,  exclaiming,  "Grand  Pacha, 
 madame  !  Grand  Pacha,  madame  !"  as  much 
 as  to  tell  me  that  he  was  H.  H.  the  Grand 
 Pacha  Ibrahim,  and  that  I  was  not  to  order 
 him  to  do  anything  that  he  disliked. 
 
 I  desired  him  to  do  as  I  bid  him,  but  to  no 
 purpose.  Knowing  that  it  was  necessary  that 
 H.  H.  the  Prince  should  learn  to  obey  me,  I 
 bethought  me  of  the  Princess's  instructions  ;  so 
 I  walked  up  to  him,  took  hold  of  his  tiny 
 hand — not,  kind  reader,  with  the  slightest  in- 
 tention of  hurting  him — then  took  a  hair-pin 
 out  of  my  hair,  placed  the  points  on  it,  and  the 
 Prince  withdrew  it,  at  the  same  time  exclaim- 
 ing, "  Evvet,  madame !  Evvet,  madame  ! "  "  Yes, 
 madame  !  Yes,  madame  ! "  and  that  was  the 
 first  and  last  time  that  I  ever  tried  H.  H.  the 
 Princess's  mode  of  punishment,  for  it  produced 
 a  lasting  impression  on  the  Grand  Pachas 
 mind ;  and  yet  His  Highness  was  not  angry 
 with  me.  But  I  knew,  as  a  positive  fact,  that 
 Shaytan,  the  head-nurse,  used  to  pinch  him 
 
284 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 until  His  Highness  shrieked  again  with  pain ; 
 and  I  did  all  in  my  power  to  prevent  her 
 from  acting  in  that  cruel  way,  and  had,  prior 
 to  my  departure,  put  a  stop  to  it  altogether. 
 
 The  young  Prince,  who  had  often  witnessed 
 from  the  windows  of  his  apartments  some  of 
 the  sailors  belonging  to  H.  H.  the  Viceroy's 
 yacht,  the  Crocodile,  plunge  into  the  Nile,  and 
 whose  agility  in  swimming  had  afforded  him 
 much  amusement,  happened,  as  he  stood  on 
 the  poop-deck,  to  perceive  several  crocodiles 
 basking  in  the  sun  on  the  low  banks  which 
 shelved  down  to  the  river :  ran  up  to  the 
 captain,  and  told  him  to  order  a  young  slave, 
 who  was  passing  by  at  that  moment,  to  be 
 thrown  into  the  river. 
 
 I  did  all  in  my  power  to  prevent  this  order 
 from  being  carried  out;  but  as  His  Highness 
 put  himself  into  a  passion,  and  the  Captain 
 assured  me  that  the  slave  could  swim,  to  use 
 his  own  expression,  "like  a  water-fowl,"  I  let 
 him  act  upon  his  own  responsibility. 
 
 Two  sailors  then  laid  hold  of  the  lad,  and 
 plunged  him  into  the  Nile,  not  on  the  side, 
 however,  on  which  the  formidable  crocodiles 
 
A  SLAVE  THE0WN  INTO  THE  NILE.  285 
 
 were  enjoying  themselves ;  and  I  had  the 
 heartfelt  satisfaction  to  see  the  slave  swim  to 
 the  boat  which  was  hanging  to  the  rope  at  the 
 stern. 
 
 The  Prince  laughed  heartily  at  the  lad's 
 acuteness  in  getting  into  the  boat,  and  again 
 ordered  him  to  be  cast  into  the  river,  which 
 was  done,  but  the  boat  was  sent  adrift.  The 
 cunning  slave  swam  to  it,  jumped  into  it,  and 
 was  soon  alongside  the  yacht,  which  had  just 
 heaved-to  in  order  to  return  off  the  Harem 
 stairs. 
 
 I  gave  the  lad  a  handful  of  paras  as  bak- 
 sheesh, who  salaamed  me  and  went  away  to 
 join  his  companions,  quite  delighted  with  his 
 prize.  Poor  fellow !  had  it  not  been  for  the 
 humanity  of  the  captain,  he  would  have  been 
 swallowed  up  by  the  crocodiles ;  for  had  he 
 been  flung  on  their  side  of  the  stream,  nothing 
 could  possibly  have  saved  him. 
 
 The  sad  monotony  of  my  daily  life  was  often 
 relieved  by  the  pastimes  of  H.H.  the  Grand 
 Pacha,  a  merry  little  boy,  who,  had  he  been 
 left  alone  with  me  away  from  all  the  dis- 
 gusting manners  of  the  ladies  of  the  Harem 
 
286 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 and  the  slaves,  might  have  been  "  made 
 a  man  of,"  and  even  a  gentleman,  like  his 
 illustrious  parent,  whose  manners  are  courtly 
 and  amiable. 
 
 I  had  been  interdicted  from  affording  him 
 any  instruction  through  the  medium  of  books, 
 except  so  far  as  to  teach  him  the  alphabet, 
 which  I  did  by  means  of  an  illustrated  primer 
 and  a  box  of  toys.  I  therefore  took  a  lively 
 interest  in  his  games  and  amusements.  I 
 found  that  he  possessed  most  excellent  abilities, 
 dull  and  heavy-looking  boy  as  he  appeared  to 
 be ;  nevertheless  the  prominent  features  of  his 
 disposition  were  three  of  the  worst  vices  that 
 a  child  could  possibly  demonstrate,  namely, 
 cruelty,  avarice,  and  greediness. 
 
 He  had  been  accustomed,  as  soon  as  he 
 could  talk  and  toddle  about,  to  have  his 
 pockets  filled  with  paras,  "silver  coins,"  by 
 H.  H.  the  Viceroy,  which,  as  I  have  previously 
 related,  were  purloined  by  the  head-nurse,  who 
 doled  out  miles  of  them,  as  it  were,  to  the 
 under-nurses ;  hence  the  manner  in  which  she 
 had  accumulated  her  treasure.  That  practice 
 being  constantly  before  the  Prince's  eyes,  it  had 
 
GAMES  AND  AMUSEMENTS.  287 
 
 engendered  in*  him  the  vice  of  avarice,  which 
 a  distinguished  author  has  most  accurately- 
 described  as  "  begetting  more  vices  than  Priam 
 did  children,  and  which,  like  Priam,  survives 
 them  all." 
 
 It  is  a  passion  full  of  paradox ;  a  madness 
 full  of  method.     Its  votary  falls  down  and 
 worships  the  god  of  this  world,  but  will  have 
 neither  its  pomps,  its  vanities,  nor  its  pleasures 
 for  his  trouble.    He  kept  constantly  urging 
 me  to  play  at  banking  with  him.    One  day 
 we  were  both  seated  on  cushions  upon  the 
 carpet  in  the  Audience  Hall,  and  after  he 
 had  finished  cutting  up  (for  he  was  particu- 
 larly fond  of  handling  a  pair  of  scissors)  some 
 cardboard  into  a  number  of  middling-sized 
 and  small  circular  pieces,  he  piled  them  up 
 in  parcels  of  twenty,  as  if  they  had  been 
 sovereigns,  then  placed  them  in  rows  upon  a 
 cushion  which  was  opposite  to  him;  beside  them 
 were  several  empty  packets.    Then  squatting 
 himself  down  in  imitation  of  the  Arab  money- 
 changers, who  are  to  be  found  at  almost  every 
 corner  of  the  streets  in  the  Egyptian  towns 
 and  large  villages,  he  began  to  personate  the 
 
HAKJfiM  LIFE. 
 
 character  of  a  banker,  or,  more  properly  speak- 
 ing, the  money-changer. 
 
 The  peculiar  manner  in  which  he  so  in- 
 imitably set,  as  it  were,  his  features  to  repre- 
 sent those  of  the  stolid,  calculating  "dealer 
 in  rupees,"  as  the  Indian  ruler  so  emphati- 
 cally designates  a  banker,  was  a  fine  piece  of 
 acting. 
 
 I  sat  down  facing  him,  as  he  had  removed 
 bis  "  stock  in  trade 99  to  his  right-hand  side.  TJe 
 then  gave  me  several  packets  of  the  cardboard 
 pieces  he  had  cut,  at  the  same  time  telling  me 
 that  I  was  to  count  them  as  English  sovereigns. 
 I  then  stood  up  before  him  and  asked  for 
 change. 
 
 As  soon  as  I  had  done  so  he  looked  at  the 
 counter  I  had  handed  him,  poised  it  in  his 
 tiny  hand  to  see  that  it  was  full  weight,  turned 
 it  over  and  over  again  to  examine  whether  it 
 were  cut  or  cracked,  said  not  a  syllable,  placed 
 it  on  the  cushion  beside  him,  and  began  count- 
 ing the  paras,  as  he  termed  the  change,  in 
 English,  for  he  had  soon  acquired  a  know- 
 ledge of  the  numbers  in  my  vernacular,  and 
 then  handed  a  number  of  small  cardboard 
 
THE  MONEY  CHANGER. 
 
 289 
 
 counters  to  me,  by  simply  placing  them  in 
 piles  upon  the  cushion  before  him. 
 
 I  took  them  out  and  counted  them,  but  I 
 found  that  he  had  not  given  me  the  proper 
 change,  even  after  having  deducted  a  few 
 paras  for  the  exchange.  I  looked  at  him  full 
 in  the  face.  His  countenance  still  retained 
 its  rigidity  of  expression— not  a  smile,  not  a 
 muscle  had  he  moved;  he  looked  the  very 
 impersonification  of  a  usurer ;  his  close  resem- 
 blance at  that  moment  to  the  portrait  of 
 his  grandfather,  which  hangs  in  the  palace  at 
 Eas-el-Tin  at  Alexandria,  was  very  striking. 
 There  sat  the  prototype  of  that  Viceregal 
 usurer  who  so  thoroughly  understood  the  art 
 of  making  money  to  yield  its  best  value,  a  gift 
 which  has  descended  to  his  descendants. 
 
 I  remonstrated  with  him,  and  told  him  that 
 he  had  charged  me  too  much  for  the  exchange. 
 His  Highness  wishing  to  gain  as  much  as  he 
 could,  and  having  no  desire  to  part  with  the 
 paras  now  that  he  had  once  fingered  them, 
 held  rather  a  long  argument  with  me,  for  a 
 Turk  seldom  talks  much,  as  to  the  scarcity 
 of  change.    When  he  found  that  I  was  not 
 
 vol.  L  u 
 
290 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 satisfied  with  his  explanation,  he  demurely 
 stroked  his  chin,  as  if  it  were  his  beard,  and  left 
 me  to  walk  away  and  put  up  with  my  loss.  The 
 Grand  Pacha  Ibrahim  laughed  most  heartily, 
 and  chuckled  within  himself  to  think  how 
 cleverly  he  had  mulcted  me  of  a  few  paras. 
 
 "  Now  then,  Madame,"  said  His  Highness,  as 
 he  rose  up  off  his  cushion,  at  the  same  time 
 taking  due  care  to  remove  close  to  him  that 
 which  contained  his  treasure,  "  You  must  take 
 my  seat,  and  act  the  money-changer." 
 
 According  to  his  instructions  I  repaired  to 
 the  seat  he  had  vacated,  at  the  same  time 
 placing  my  cushion  with  the  counters  by  my 
 side.  As  soon  as  I  had  arranged  myself,  the 
 Prince,  who  had  cunningly  clipped  the  corners 
 off  several  of  the  counters,  probably  with  the 
 intention  of  placing  them  among  those  that 
 he  had  given  to  me  at  first,  handed  me  one  of 
 those  pieces.  I  examined  it,  pointed  out  to 
 His  Highness  that  it  had  been  cut,  and  there- 
 fore was  deficient  in  weight,  and  refused  to 
 change  it,  except  at  a  considerable  reduction; 
 but  he  would  not  agree  to  that  arrangement. 
 Then  he  put  himself  into  a  most  towering 
 
THE  PRINCE  IN  A  RAGE.  291 
 
 passion,  threw  himself  upon  the  floor,  screamed 
 out  most  hideously,  and  brought  the  whole  staff 
 of  the  establishment,  princesses,  ladies  of  the 
 Harem,  slaves  and  eunuchs^  into  the  apart- 
 ment, to  see  what  was  the  matter  with  H.H. 
 the  Grand  Pacha ;  for  at  the  very  sound  of  his 
 voice  the  whole  of  the  establishment  was  always 
 on  the  alarm. 
 
 The  head-nurse  took  him  up,  and  began 
 performing  her  superstitious  observances,  by 
 sprinkling  water  on  the  floor,  as  a  slave  had 
 attended  her  with  a  silver  basinful,  naturally 
 thinking  that  His  Highness  had  met  with  some 
 accident. 
 
 When  the  matter  was  explained  to  H.H.  the 
 Princess  Epouse,  she  laughed  most  heartily, 
 and  exclaimed,  "  Malesh !  Malesh !  "  and  re- 
 tired from  the  apartment,  accompanied  by  the 
 whole  retinue. 
 
 H.H.  the  Viceroy,  Ismael  Pacha,  happening 
 !  to  be  in  an  adjoining  apartment,  entered  the 
 room  a  few  minutes  after.  I  had  managed 
 to  pacify  the  little  torment,  who  had  set  him- 
 self down,  and  was  once  again  quietly  playing 
 with  me  at  the  same  pastime.  I  was  not  aware 
 u  2 
 
292 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 of  His  Highnesses  presence ;  but  as  I  sat  count 
 ing  out  some  paras  on  a  cushion  on  the  flooi 
 I  suddenly  felt  the  breath  of  some  person  far 
 as  it  were,  my  cheek.  Thinking  that  it  wa 
 Shaytan,  J  raised  up  my  hand,  with  the  inten 
 tion  of  boxing  her  ears,  as  I  thought  thai 
 according  to  her  custom,  she  had  slipped  int< 
 the  apartment  unperceived,  and  was  watching 
 us  at  play. 
 
 Suddenly,  however,  I  saw  the  Grand  Pachi 
 smile,  and,  turning  round,  I  perceived  H.H.  th 
 Viceroy  bending,  as  it  were,  over  my  shouldei 
 I  sprung  to  my  feet,  blushed,  curtseyed  to  Hi 
 Highness,  who  smiled,  and  playfully  exclaimed 
 "  Pray,  Madame,  as  I  am  a  poor  man," — an< 
 the  marked  emphasis  with  which  the  billionaire 
 of  the  world  uttered  that  expression  was  s< 
 peculiar  that  I  shall  never  forget  it,  (for  th 
 tone  of  voice  was  that  of  a  professional  money 
 lender,) — "  allow  me  to  take  possession  of  you 
 stock-in-trade. "  Saying  which,  His  Highnes 
 seated  himself  on  the  cushion  I  had  just  vacated 
 and  began  to  play  with  his  darling  son. 
 
 After  having  amused  himself  for  some  time 
 His  Highness  rose  up,  approached  me,  for  I  wa 
 
LOVE  OF  WEALTH. 
 
 293 
 
 standing  at  one  of  the  windows  looking  out 
 into  the  garden,  and  thanked  me  for  the  judi- 
 cious manner  in  which  I  had  managed  to  amuse 
 his  refractory  heir,  and  then  left  the  apart- 
 ment. 
 
 I  had  flattered  myself  that  when  he  rose  up 
 from  the  banking  department,  the  Viceroy 
 would  have  left  some  packets  of  golden  paras 
 on  the  cushion.  None,  however,  were  depo- 
 sited there ;  for,  like  his  son,  he  was  reported, 
 and  I  believe  the  fact,  to  be  fond  of  accu- 
 mulating treasure  as  a  means  to  happiness, 
 and,  by  a  common  but  morbid  association, 
 he  continued  to  accumulate  it  as  an  end. 
 This  attachment  to  wealth  must  always  be 
 a  growing  and  progressing  attachment,  since 
 misers  and  usurers  are  not  slow  in  discovering 
 that  those  same  ruthless  years  which  detract 
 so  sensibly  from  their  bodies  and  their  minds 
 serve  only  to  augment  and  consolidate  the 
 strength  of  their  purse. 
 
 Sometimes  His  Highness  the  Prince  would 
 order  all  his  young  slaves  to  come  into  his 
 apartment,  when  he  would  make  them  go 
 through  the  whole  military  exercise  (many  of 
 
294 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 whom  were  girls,  and  his  half-sisters  too) 
 just  as  efficiently  as  if  they  were  battalions 
 of  infantry.  He  gave  the  words  of  command 
 in  a  most  clear  and  distinct  voice,  and  made 
 them  go  through  their  manoeuvres  as  ad- 
 mirably as  if  he  had  been  a  drill-sergeant.  If 
 any  one  of  them  did  not  stand  up  or  march 
 properly,  he  immediately  ordered  the  eunuch 
 who  was  in  attendance  upon  him  to  give  the 
 refractory  private  several  strokes  of  the  coicr- 
 bache  (a  whip  made  of  buffalo-hide) ;  and  if 
 the  offender  repeated  the  offence,  he  ordered 
 him  treble  punishment,  which  was  immediately 
 inflicted. 
 
 Thus,  while  the  Prince  displayed  a  strong 
 passion  for  military  glory,  like  his  renowned 
 ancestor,  Mahomet  Ali,  he  also  demonstrated 
 his  possession  of  that  vice,  cruelty,  which  had 
 so  often  sullied  the  fair  name,  not  only  of  the 
 regenerator  of  Egypt,  but  which  had  also  tar- 
 nished the  renown  of  his, courageous  grandsire, 
 Ibrahim  Pacha;  both  of  whom  were  neither 
 more  nor  less  than  most  remorseless  tyrants. 
 
 At  other  times,  the  Prince  would  make  his 
 retinue  sit  down  on  cushions  on  the  floor,  which 
 
PERSONATING  THE  MUFTI.  295 
 
 he  had  arranged  in  rows ;  and  then  he  com- 
 manded them  to  imitate  the  boatmen  rowing 
 boats  on  the  Nile.  If  any  one  of  them  did  not 
 move  their  hands  and  arms  in  unison  with  the 
 rest,  he  would  order  them  to  be  bastinadoed 
 upon  the  soles  of  their  feet. 
 
 His  powers  of  imitation  and  mimicry,  as  I 
 have  previously  stated,  were  very  great,  and 
 his  favourite  pastime  consisted  in  imitating  the 
 Mussulmans  at  their  prayers  in  the  mosques. 
 In  the  first  place,  he  went  himself  and  fetched 
 a  Persian  rug  from  one  of  the  rooms,  which 
 he  placed  on  the  carpet,  close  by  the  elder 
 slaves,  who  were  busy  cutting  out  their  dresses, 
 &c.  Sometimes,  however,  he  would  have  it  laid 
 in  the  centre  of  the  room ;  then  he  took  the  silk 
 coverlets  off  the  beds  out  of  the  bed  store-room, 
 and  placed  them  on  each  side  of  the  room. 
 
 Personating  the  Mufti,  which  he  did  to  per- 
 fection, he  knelt  down  on  the  rug  and  made  all 
 the  little  slaves  kneel  down  by  his  side  on  the 
 coverlets.  After  which  he  began  muttering 
 some  words,  which  I  did  not  understand,  but 
 which  the  slaves  repeated  after  him.  Then  he 
 bowed  his  forehead  down  on  the  rug,  the 
 
296 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 slaves  following  his  example.  After  this  he 
 stood  with  his  face  towards  Mecca,  put  his  two 
 little  hands  together,  bowed  his  head  down  to 
 the  ground,  and  continued  repeating  such  ges- 
 tures for  upwards  of  fifty  times,  the  slaves 
 imitating  him.  Then  he  placed  his  thumbs 
 behind  his  ears  with  his  fingers,  and  extended 
 them  upwards  to  the  ceiling,  in  a  devotional 
 attitude,  exclaiming  at  different  times,  "Allah  ! 
 Allah  !  Amin  !  Amin  !  "  "  God,  God,  Amen, 
 Amen ! "  He  then  bowed  his  head  and  smoothed 
 down  his  chin,  in  imitation  of  the  Turk  strok- 
 ing his  beard. 
 
 At  other  times  His  Highness  would  collect 
 a  number  of  small  pieces  of  wood  out  of  his 
 toy  closet,  in  which  were  stored  toys  of  the 
 most  costly  and  varied  description,  for  it  is 
 almost  impossible  to  estimate  the  sums  which 
 had  been  expended  in  this  manner.  During 
 my  sojourn  with  him,  upwards  of  500/.  worth 
 arrived  from  Paris  of  the  latest  novelties, 
 and  I  am  sure  upwards  of  400Z.  were  already 
 in  the  Palace  on  my  arrival.  Yet,  most 
 oddly  enough,  those  of  the  most  simple  kind, 
 and  which  are  most  commonly  in  use  among 
 
the  prince's  EXPENSIVE  TOYS.  297 
 
 European  boys,  had  not  been  provided  for  him. 
 Hoops,  skipping-ropes,  trap  bat  and  ball,  foot 
 ball,  and  more  especially  a  rocking  horse, 
 had  been  omitted ;  but  as  to  drums,  fifes, 
 whistles,  and  those  of  the  noisiest,  their  name 
 were  legion.  The  majority  were,  however,  most 
 costly  mechanical  inventions.  I  presented  him 
 with  a  small  pistol,  with  percussion  caps, 
 rather  a  noisy  though  harmless  weapon,  but 
 the  use  of  it  was  prohibited,  lest  he  should 
 hurt  himself,  which  was  impossible.  All  gym- 
 nastic amusements  had  been  neglected.  But 
 in  making  the  slaves  pretend  to  be  carpenters, 
 he  himself  acting  as  foreman  and  taskmaster,  an 
 office  in  which,  like  the  Egyptians  of  old  in  the 
 time  of  Pharaoh  and  the  Israelites,  he  was  a 
 proficient.  Many  a  time  and  oft  did  he  turn 
 bricklayer  himself,  by  getting  flat  pieces  of 
 wood,  with  which  he  made  the  slaves  scrape 
 the  walls,  while  to  others  he  gave  long  sticks, 
 and,  pretending  to  mix  up  mortar,  he  placed  the 
 pieces  of  paper  moistened  with  water  upon  flat 
 pieces  of  wood  instead  of  hods,  and  made  the 
 slaves  carry  it  to  those  who  were  engaged  in 
 erecting  his  temporary  palace. 
 
298 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 At  other  times  lie  would  enact  the  pilgrims 
 going  to  Mecca.  Then  he  made  the  little  slaves 
 take  their  handkerchiefs,  one  of  which  they 
 bound  over  their  faces,  concealing  the  whole  of 
 their  countenances  except  the  eyes,  and  spread- 
 ing the  other  open  they  placed  it  over  their 
 heads.  Then,  taking  the  thin  coverlets,  they 
 made  habarahs  of  them,  in  which  they  attired 
 themselves.  Their  handkerchiefs  were  then 
 converted  into  wallets,  into  which  he  placed 
 paper  to  represent  their  provisions,  and  card- 
 board counters  for  their  money.  This  being 
 done,  he  started  them  off  down  the  apartment 
 two  by  two,  while  he  himself  attended  one  of 
 the  little  Princesses,  who  was  carried  on  the 
 shoulders  of  some  of  the  slaves,  seated  in  a 
 chair,  the  substitute  for  a  palanquin  (for,  sin- 
 gular to  add,  none  are  ever  used  in  Egypt),  and 
 then  the  procession  moved  up  and  down  the 
 apartment,  while  several  of  the  other  slaves 
 kept  beating  their  drums  in  the  most  dis- 
 cordant manner.  Sometimes  His  Highness 
 would  imitate  the  Hammals,  "porters,"  by 
 making  the  slaves  carry  the  cushions  of  the 
 divans  on  their  shoulders,  he  himself  walking 
 
THE  VICEREGAL  DOCTOR.  299 
 
 in  front  of  them,  holding  a  long  and  rather 
 thick  stick  in  his  hand,  at  the  same  time  hal- 
 looing out,  Hum!  Hum!  Allah!  Allah! 
 hout  iyqrn,  "God  be  thanked  for  this  daily- 
 burthen,"  which  all  the  slaves  were  obliged 
 to  repeat  under  penalty  of  receiving  several 
 knocks  with  his  stick.  Occasionally  he  would 
 also  personate  the  Hekim  Bachi,  "Viceregal 
 doctor,"  and  then  he  made  one  of  the  little 
 slaves  run  before  him,  shouting  forth,  Allah! 
 Allah!  Dustoor !  Dustoor !  "God!  Gocl ! 
 Move  away  !  Move  away  ! "  when  the  slaves, 
 both  young  and  grown-up,  many  of  whom 
 mingled  in  his  pastimes,  covered  their  heads 
 with  their  dresses,  or  with  anything  that  they 
 might  be  making  up  for  themselves,  which 
 made  him  laugh  most  heartily. 
 
 Then  he  walked  up  and  down  the  room, 
 accompanied  by  a  little  slave,  looked  at  the 
 hands  of  the  female  slaves,  some  of  whom  were 
 obliged  to  pretend  that  they  were  ill,  and  had 
 bad  fingers  or  wouDded  legs.  Then  he  gave 
 orders  to  his  little  assistant  to  bind  up  the 
 part  affected,  and  administered  bread  pills  to 
 them  for  medicine,  but  to  those  who  were  his 
 
300 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 Ickbals,  "favourites,"  he  gave  bon-bons,  as 
 immense  baskets  rilled  with  them  are  monthly 
 imported  from  Paris  by  one  of  His  Highnesses 
 partners  there  for  exclusive  distribution  in  the 
 Harems.  I  repeat  Harems,  because  His  High- 
 ness the  Viceroy  has  several  others  up  the  Nile 
 both  in  Lower  and  Upper  Egypt,  besides  that 
 in  which  I  resided  with  the  Prince. 
 
BON-BONS. 
 
 301 
 
 CHAPTER  XVI. 
 
 While  dilating  upon  the  admirable  manner 
 in  which  his  Highness  enacted  the  physician,  I 
 may  as  well  mention  that  His  Highness  the 
 Viceroy  has  a  staff  of  medical  men,  chiefly 
 Italians.  "When  I  fell  ill  at  Cairo,  His  High- 
 ness Ismael  Pacha  sent  his  own  physician  ex- 
 traordinary to  visit  me  ;  but  it  appeared  evident 
 to  me  that  from  his  treatment  of  myself,  they 
 do  not  understand  the  constitutions  of  English- 
 women. They  are  seldom  or  never  called 
 into  the  Harems,  except  to  attend  upon  the 
 Prince. 
 
 The  mothers  of  the  Harem  are  skilled  in  the 
 practice  of  midwifery  ;  they  are  generally  old, 
 ugly  women,  who  bend  the  knee  to  that  sovereign 
 ruler  of  Egypt,  Prince  Baksheesh,  and  are  ever 
 ready  to  commit  any  crime  or  forward  any 
 
302 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 intrigue,  as  the  annals  of  Egyptian  history  ever 
 since  the  rule  of  Mehemet  Ali  testify.  They 
 have  all  kinds  of  narcotics  at  their  command, 
 are  well  versed  in  the.  use  and  abuse  of  the 
 deadliest  of  vegetable  poisons ;  are  skilled  in 
 making  up  philtres,  sometimes  administered 
 as  draughts  or  powders,  and  which  they  affirm 
 have  the  power  to  produce  love  or  hatred. 
 
 One  of  their  principal  charms  is  Haschachir, 
 Haschisch,  which  has  been  known  to  have 
 the  most  extraordinary  effects  on  the  brain. 
 When  taken  it  causes  violent  palpitations,  fol- 
 lowed by  excruciating  pangs  and  qualms,  which 
 produce  an  hallucination  of  the  senses  that 
 makes  the  mind  fancy  all  kinds  of  improbable 
 things. 
 
 If  taken  at  night,  even  if  the  darkness  be 
 ever  so  intense,  it  often  causes  the  patients  who 
 are  under  its  influence  to  fancy  that  they  see  a 
 most  brilliant  sunset.  If  the  chamber  is  as 
 silent  as  the  grave,  most  singular  noises  are 
 heard;  sometimes  the  ringing  of  bells,  the 
 Moslem's  abomination,  although  none  are  used 
 in  the  East  except  in  the  dwellings  of  the 
 Europeans,  and  in  their  places  of  worship ;  the 
 
NARCOTICS. 
 
 303 
 
 striking  of  clocks ;  at  other  times  the  chanting 
 in  the  distance  of  beautiful  sacred  music  by 
 sweet  and  melodious  voices.  And  yet,  what  is 
 most  curious,  the  individual  who  is  under  its 
 pernicious  influence  is  perfectly  aware  that 
 those  distortions  of  the  imagination  are  but  the 
 effects  of  the  Haschisch,  which  gives  the  mind, 
 as  it  were,  a  double  existence.  Even  the  taste 
 and  smell  seem  affected  by  it,  for  the  nostrils 
 imbibe,  as  it  were,  perfumes  which  do  not 
 impregnate  the  atmosphere,  and  the  palate 
 flavours  that  exist  not. 
 
 Should  the  individual  be  taking  a  prome- 
 nade, when  under  its  influence,  the  thorough- 
 fare through  which  he  is  passing  seems  to  have 
 no  outlet,  and  every  object  around  appears 
 double,  and  to  assume  the  most  grotesque 
 shapes  and  forms.  At  times  his  memory 
 becomes  impaired,  and  he  sinks  into  a  deep 
 lethargy,  which  feeling  I  experienced  myself 
 during  my  illness  at  Constantinople.  He  loses 
 all  idea  of  time;  a  minute  seems  to  him  an 
 hour.  He  is  consumed  with  a  burning  thirst, 
 which  nothing  seems  to  assuage. 
 
 In  order  to  experience  these  effects,  or  many 
 
304 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 other  most  singular  delusions,  it  is  only  neces- 
 sary to  take  half  a  teaspoonful  of  it,  drink  a 
 cup  of  pure  Mocha  coffee,  partake  of  a  meal 
 afterwards,  and  the  potion  will  soon  begin 
 to  operate. 
 
 The  Haschachir,  like  the  Bang  drunk  by 
 the  Sepoys  in  India,  is  said  to  be  distilled  from 
 the  leaf  of  a  kind  of  hemp  called  Konnab 
 Hindi,  "Fakirs  Weed/'  or  "Fakir's  Keff," 
 hence  the  derivation  of  the  Turkish  word 
 Keff,  or  Kef. 
 
 These  harridans  attribute  great  efficacy  to 
 the  marrow  of  the  ostrich,  or  portions  of  a 
 dried  hippopotamus,  when  it  is  powdered  and 
 taken  by  their  patients  in  that  manner.  But 
 their  forte  lies  in  procuring  abortion.  Euro- 
 pean physicians  are  not  unfrequently  conducted 
 into  the  Harems,  but  the  greatest  precautions 
 are  taken  to  prevent  them  from  seeing  the 
 faces  of  their  patients,  as  the  whole  of  the  face, 
 except  the  eyes,  is  covered  with  a  habarah 
 whenever  they  enter  the  palace,  and  the 
 eunuchs  cry  out  with  most  stentorian  lungs, 
 Allah!  Allah!  Dustoor !  Dustoor!  "God! 
 God  !    Away  !    Away ! "  when  all  the  women 
 
THE  DOCTORS. 
 
 305 
 
 run  into  their  rooms  in  the  twinkling  of  an 
 eye.  It  really  is  most  amusing  to  see  the  sin- 
 gular manner  in  which  they  managed  to  let  the 
 Hekim  Bach  i3  "  Viceregal  doctor,"  examine  the 
 diseased  part. 
 
 Once  an  operation  had  to  be  performed  on 
 a  slave,  and  then  the  face  was  most  carefully 
 concealed.  At  another  time  the  tongue  had  to 
 be  examined,  and  that  was  thrust  out  of  the 
 mouth,  the  lips  being  covered  over.  One  day 
 it  happened  that  a  slave  was  at  the  point  of 
 death,  and  it  was  necessary  to  see  her  face, 
 which  was  managed  by  a  thin  coloured  gauze 
 being  thrown  over  it.  I  know  an  instance  of 
 an  Italian  doctor  being  called  upon  to  attend 
 a  young  married  Turkish  woman,  who  did  not 
 seem  to  have  much  the  matter  with  her. 
 
 "Hekim  effendi"  (Doctor),  said  she  to  him, 
 "  I  want  to  know  what  ails  me." 
 
 The  peculiar  manner  in  which  she  made  that 
 interrogatory,  gave  the  doctor  the  key  to 
 what  she  wanted.  He  assumed  a  very  serious 
 countenance,  and  after  a  few  moments'  delibe- 
 ration, exclaimed,  "Hanem''  (Lady),  said  he, 
 
 vol.  i.  x 
 
306 
 
 HAKEM  LIFE. 
 
 you  do  not  appear  to  be  very  unwell ;  but  there 
 
 is  one  thing  " 
 
 "What  is  that?"  inquired  the  lady,  hur- 
 riedly. 
 
 "  Hanem,  you  are  as  ladies  wish  to  be  who 
 love  their  lords." 
 
 "  Peh-ein !  (Very  well !)  said  the  young 
 lady's  mother,  who  was  present,  as  was  usual, 
 at  the  consultation.  "  But  how  long  has  that 
 been  the  case  ?    Pray  tell  us,  I  beg  of  you." 
 
 After  a  few  moments'  pause,  and  by  the  aid 
 of  some  indications  which  had  been  revealed 
 to  him,  the  doctor  told  her  that  the  Hanem 
 had  been  enceinte  about  four  months.  He 
 then  thought  that  his  visit  was  ended  ;  but  the 
 mother  pressed  the  Hekim  to  tell  them  whether 
 the  child  would  be  a  boy  or  a  girl. 
 
 Any  other  medical  man  but  that  Italian 
 physician  would  have  burst  out  into  a  fit  of 
 laughter ;  but  he,  without  moving  a  muscle, 
 looked  intently  at  the  Hanem,  stroked  down 
 his  beard  several  times,  and  then  replied  in  a 
 firm  tone  of  voice, 
 
 "  Inch9  Allah  ! "    (By  the  blessing  of  God  !) 
 
THE  ITALIAN  DOCTOR. 
 
 307 
 
 the  child  will  be  a  boy,  and  the  very  picture  of 
 his  father." 
 
 "  God  grant  you  a  long  life,  Hekim  effemli" 
 exclaimed  both  the  women  ;  and  the  doctor 
 left  the  apartment  loaded  with  blessings  and 
 a  purse  full  of  Turkish  sovereigns. 
 
 One  of  His  Highness's  favourite  pastimes 
 was  playing  at  dominoes,  which  he  did  with 
 great  skill.  When  he  became  wearied  of  that 
 amusement  cards  were  introduced,  and  he 
 played  numerous  Turkish  games  with  his  little 
 playmates.  At  other  times  he  would  have  a 
 fantasia  enacted.  Then  he  ordered  the  slaves 
 to  pile  up  several  cushions,  which  he  called  a 
 Mumud,  "throne,"  on  which  he  seated  himself 
 with  the  little  Princesses,  his  legitimate  sisters, 
 arranged  on  each  side.  The  young  slaves  sat 
 about  him  in  the  form  of  a  semi-circle,  and  a 
 slave  named  Kosetta  commenced  sinking  in  a 
 very  pretty  manner  the  following  verses  in 
 Turkish  : — 
 
 "  The  complexion  of  my  love  is  like  the  freshness  of  the  velvet- 
 looking  jasmine  ;  her  face  is  as  resplendant  as  the  bright,  bright 
 moon  ;  her  lips  were  as  rosy  as  the  choicest  Burgundy,  and  her 
 lily  white  bosom  the  fairest  and  softest-looking  that  an  amorous 
 youth  ever  beheld. 
 
 x  2 
 
308 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 "  Oh  !  beauteous  creature,  the  perfume  of  whose  breath  is  like 
 the  grateful  odour  of  the  musk  rose,  allow  me  to  sip  sweets  from 
 thy  ruby  lips,  and  pour  forth  into  thy  ear  the  passion  that  con- 
 sumes my  heart." 
 
 All  the  slaves  joined  in  the  chorus,  and  sang 
 the  last  verse.  Their  Highnesses,  the  Princesses, 
 encored;  then  H.H.  the  Grand  Pacha,  quite 
 elated  at  his  success  as  director  of  the  fantasia, 
 ordered  another  slave,  named  Damietta,  to  ap- 
 proach the  musnud,  and  the  little  girl  poured 
 forth,  in  a  plaintive  voice,  the  following 
 strain  : — 
 
 "  My  mistress  wears  a  beautiful  gold  embroidered  dress  ;  her 
 wide  trousers  are  of  azure  blue  silk  ;  her  waistband  is  a  costly 
 cashmere  shawl,  worth  two  hundred  Egyptian  sovereigns.  All 
 the  richness  of  her  attire  is  nothing  in  comparison  to  the  beauty 
 of  her  face  ! 
 
 "  There  is  nothing  either  in  heaven  or  earth  half  so  lovely  as 
 her  beautiful  sparkling  orbs." 
 
 At  other  times  he  would  give  orders  for  a 
 banquet.  Then  two  slaves  were  ordered  to 
 fetch  all  the  soofras  they  could  find,  which 
 they  placed  down  the  whole  length  of  the 
 apartment.  Then  His  Highness  commanded 
 them  to  ask  the  eunuchs  to  give  them  a  number 
 of  the  prettiest  bonbon  cases,  filled  with  those 
 
THE  PRINCE'S  IKBAL. 
 
 309 
 
 condiments,  which  they  brought  up  into  the 
 room.  Emptying  their  contents  into  one  of  the 
 silk  coverlets,  the  Prince  mixed  them  all  to- 
 gether, replaced  them  in  some  of  the  handsomest 
 baskets  at  hand,  and  ordered  the  slaves  to  hand 
 them  round  to  the  Princesses,  the  wives,  and  to 
 his  little  sisters ;  also  to  his  ikbal,  "  favourite," 
 for  he  had  one,  young  as  he  was. 
 
 She  was  a  slave  who  had  been  purchased  at 
 Constantinople,  and  was  placed  in  the  Harem 
 to  be  educated  with  His  Highness.  Had  that 
 plan  been  followed  out  some  good  results  might 
 have  been  produced ;  but,  like  most  others 
 adopted  by  many  of  the  Viceregal  family,  it 
 was  abandoned.  The  only  distinction  which  was 
 made  between  this  child  and  the  young  Prin- 
 cesses was  that  she  was  obliged  to  eat  her 
 meals  with  an  iron  spoon.  Upon  this  occasion, 
 imitating  the  example  set  him  by  his  Viceregal 
 parent,  he  took  it  into  his  head  to  honour  her 
 that  day,  and  therefore  ordered  the  slaves  to 
 hand  every  basket  to  her  hist,  after  they  had 
 served  their  Highnesses  the  Princesses,  the 
 wives.  She  was  distinguished  from  the  other 
 slaves  by  wearing  a  fez ;  which  was  not  on 
 
310 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 account  of  the  position  she  would  probably  be 
 called  upon  to  take,  but  simply  from  the  fact 
 that  the  cleanliness  of  her  hair  had  been  so 
 much  neglected,  that  she  had  not  only  lost  the 
 greater  portion  of  it,  but  that  the  vermin  had 
 eaten  sores  into  her  skull ! 
 
 After  this  sherbet  was  served. 
 
 The  entertainment,  however,  did  not  pass 
 off  without  one  of  H.H.  the  Prince's  favourite 
 slaves  having  purloined  a  basket  of  bonbons. 
 H.  H.  the  Princess  Epouse,  upon  being  informed 
 of  it,  ordered  the  girl  to  be  punished ;  but 
 H.H.  the  Grand  Pacha  put  himself  into  such  a 
 paroxysm  of  rage,  that  he  lay  upon  the  floor 
 and  foamed  at  the  mouth,  exclaiming  at  inter- 
 vals that  she  should  not  be  punished,  except 
 by  himself;  and  nothing  would  satisfy  him 
 until  his  mother  had  countermanded  the  order. 
 When  that  was  done,  he  took  up  a  small  cane 
 which  was  close  at  hand,  laid  it  lightly  across 
 her  shoulders,  and  thus  ended  the  affair. 
 
 It  afforded  me  considerable  pain  to  observe 
 that  His  Highness  always  evinced,  at  these 
 feasts,  the  utmost  greediness,  by  setting  apart 
 for  himself  the  largest  basket  of  bonbons ;  and 
 
GAME  OF  FOOTBALL. 
 
 311 
 
 if  any  of  the  slaves  (and  several  of  them 
 were  in  the  habit  of  doing  so),  teased  him  by 
 exchanging  their  own  baskets,  cakes,  &c.  for 
 his,  he  would  break  up  the  entertainment 
 instanter,  have  all  the  soofras,  &c.  removed 
 immediately,  send  the  slaves  away,  and  dismiss 
 the  company. 
 
 One  day,  when  it  was  too  hot  for  the  Prince 
 to  take  his  usual  morning  walk  in  the  garden, 
 I  was  playing  with  him  at  football,  the  ball 
 being  a  middle-sized  India  one,  enclosed  in  net- 
 work ;  the  hangings  of  the  doors  being  looped 
 back  to  admit  of  a  free  circulation  of  air.  His 
 Highness  happened  to  kick  it  with  rather  more 
 force  than  usual,  it  bounded  into  the  corridor, 
 and  rolled  into  a  room,  the  door  of  which  I  had 
 never  seen  open  before,  and  disappeared. 
 
 The  Prince  followed  in  pursuit ;  but  hearing 
 him  halloo  out,  I  hastened  to  his  assistance, 
 and,  entering  the  unexplored  chamber,  I  found 
 that  the  tails  of  his  little  coat  had  been  caught 
 in  the  leg  of  a  Broadwood's  grand  piano.  I 
 instantly  liberated  the  little  captive,  who,  as 
 soon  as  he  had  snatched  up  the  ball,  threw 
 it  into  my  hands,  which  were  extended  to 
 
312 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 catch  it,  aid  proceeded  (as  he  was  exceedingly 
 curious)  to  examine  every  nook  and  corner  of 
 that  room,  which  was  to  him  an  undiscovered 
 region. 
 
 Hand-in -hand,  we  proceeded  to  take  an  in- 
 ventory of  the  miscellaneous  articles  which  were 
 huddled  up  together  in  that  "  Old  Antique  and 
 Modern  Curiosity  Shop."  I  cannot  do  better 
 than  compare  it  to  the  show-room  of  an  ex- 
 tensive furniture-warehouse,  with  half-a-dozen 
 parlours,  of  W ardour-street  vertu  dealers. 
 
 There  we  found  beautifully-executed  full- 
 length  portraits  of  Her  Majesty  the  Queen,  the 
 late  Prince  Consort,  Napoleon  III.,  the  Empress 
 Eugenie,  and  many  other  of  the  crowned  heads 
 of  Europe  ;  elegant  gilt  time-pieces,  large  bulky 
 rolls  of  handsome  carpet,  marqueterie  tables, 
 spring  easy-chairs,  sofas,  ornaments  for  mantel- 
 pieces of  the  most  costly  description ;  clocks, 
 with  birds  which,  as  I  wound  some  of  them  up, 
 began  singing,  instead  of  striking  the  hours. 
 Some  had  fish  swimming  round  and  round  the 
 dials,  which  stood  in  the  centre  of  imitation 
 lakes ;  all  of  them  were  most  artistically  inlaid, 
 
CURIOSITIES. 
 
 313 
 
 with  large  figures  on  the  tops.  There  was  one  far 
 more  beautiful  than  the  others  which  attracted 
 my  attention,  which  had  the  figure  of  Yenus  in 
 a  shell  drawn  by  swans  :  it  was  a  magnificent 
 piece  of  workmanship.    Others  had  chariots 
 drawn  by  wild  horses — one  with  Mazeppa  and 
 the  wild  horses.    There  were  stood  up  against 
 the  walls  suits  of  old  armour,  beautifully  inlaid. 
 On  lines  hung  quantities  of  old  clothes,  con- 
 sisting of  suits  of  uniforms  which  had  belonged 
 to  Mahomet  Ali,  Ibrahim  Pacha,  Ismael  Pacha, 
 the  Viceroy's  uncle,  and  other  defunct  Egyptian 
 princes.    Saddles,  bridles,  silver  bits,  and  stir- 
 rups ;  immense  mirrors,  evidently  of  English 
 manufacture ;  superb  large  glass  lustres,  ser- 
 vices of  old  Sevres  china ;  fire-irons,  richly 
 gilt ;  children's  toys  in  abundance,  of  the  most 
 expensive  kind,   all  fitted  with  mechanical 
 movements ;  musical  instruments,  and  a  host 
 of  miscellaneous  articles  that  it  would  take  a 
 catalogue  of  twenty  pages  to  enumerate. 
 
 It  was  a  very  large  apartment  (not  in  the 
 Harem)  and  happened  to  be  open  on  that  day, 
 as  H.  H.  the  Viceroy's  Tchiboukdji  was  stand- 
 
314 
 
 HAREM  LIFE. 
 
 ing  there,  while  several  slaves  were  dusting  it. 
 I  then  determined  to  ask  H.  H.  the  Viceroy, 
 when  an  opportunity  offered,  to  allow  me  to 
 have  the  furniture  which  was  in  it  (for  therein 
 I  had  found  everything  that  even  a  European 
 lady  of  rank  could  desire  to  make  her  rooms 
 comfortable)  placed  in  the  rooms  above  it, 
 which  would  have  enabled  me  to  keep  H.  H. 
 the  Prince  apart  from  the  host  of  slaves,  whose 
 disgusting  ways  tended  to  counteract  my  best 
 endeavours  to  bring  him  up  in  European  habits 
 and  manners. 
 
 But,  most  unfortunately,  our  sudden  depar- 
 ture for  Alexandria  prevented  me  from  carrying 
 out  that  beau  projet,  as  also  did  my  subsequent 
 illness  at  Constantinople,  which  obliged  me  to 
 repair  to  Europe.  I  never  again  returned  to 
 the  Harem,  for  which  I  was  not  sorry,  believe 
 me,  kind  reader. 
 
 "  Better  where  awful  mountains  rise 
 With  raging  tigers  dwell, 
 Then  share  the  halls  of  Paradise 
 With  women  who  merit  hell." 
 
 On  my  return  to  the  Prince's  reception-hall, 
 
THE  YOUNG  EUNUCHS. 
 
 315 
 
 into  which  His  Highness  had  hastened  some 
 time  before  me,  I  found  one  of  the  little 
 eunuchs  (for  there  were  then  eight  of  them  in 
 the  Harem,  whose  ages  averaged  from  four  to 
 ten  years)  who  were  to  accompany  us  to  Con- 
 stantinople as  presents  to  His  Majesty  the 
 Sultan,  crying  most  bitterly. 
 
 Upon  making  inquiries,  I  found  that  he  had 
 been  dreadfully  frightened  by  the  Prince  with 
 a  snow-white  lamb,  a  toy,  who  bleated  by 
 mechanism,  and  had  run  his  horns  against 
 his  private  parts.  The  blow  had  so  exaspe- 
 rated the  little  eunuch,  that  he  rushed  on  the 
 Grand  Pacha,  who,  doubling  up  his  fist  d 
 T Anglais,  had  struck  him  in  the  same  part 
 near  the  abdomen,  and  sent  him  sprawling  on 
 the  floor.  The  head  nurse  had  rushed  in,  and 
 performed  her  incantations,  and  the  mother  of 
 that  little  "  spectre  of  a  man,"  was  tending 
 that  offspring  whom  she  had  sold  for  filthy 
 gold,  like  a  farmer  sells  his  sheep. 
 
 When  I  had  complained  to  Mr.  B.  and  the 
 Messrs.  H.  of  the  scanty  accommodation  of  one 
 tiny  little  room,  not  more  than  twelve  feet  long 
 
316 
 
 HAREM  LIFE, 
 
 by  twelve  feet  broad,  and  about  fourteen  high, 
 I  was  met  with  the  reply  that  His  Highness 
 had  no  other  accommodation  to  give  me.  Now 
 I  had  found  out  the  contrary,  and  learned  that 
 not  the  slightest  efforts  had  been  made  by 
 H.  H.  the  Viceroy's  partners  to  contribute  to 
 my  comfort.  But  as  I  was  one  of  mother  Eve's 
 daughters,  all  of  whom  they  looked  upon  as 
 handmaids  and  slaves,  born  to  be  bought  and 
 sold,  anything  was  good  enough  for  me  ;  for  I 
 had  found  a  whole  suite  of  noble  rooms  un- 
 occupied, and  plenty  of  useful  elegant  European 
 furniture  to  adorn  and  befit  them  for  the  occu- 
 pation of  His  Highness  and  his  Governess,  close 
 by  my  own  chamber. 
 
 Perhaps  had  I  been  a  Frankfort  lady,  or 
 a  denizen  of  the  lovely  village  of  Oppen- 
 heim,  on  the  banks  of  the  beautiful  Ehine, 
 my  comforts  would  have  been  better  cared 
 for,  and  I  should  have  found  my  position 
 much  more  endurable  ;  but  I  was  Kopek, 
 "a  dog,"  of  an  Englishwoman,  a  Howadjee, 
 an  unbeliever,  a  Pariah,  whom  both  Moslems 
 and  Jews  despised  and  spat  at,  and  therefore, 
 
THE  GOVERNESS'S  RESOLUTION.  317 
 
 as  I  was  told  before  I  quitted  my  own  dear 
 bright  land  of  liberty,  "  I  must  fight  my  own 
 battle,"  I  determined  to  do  it,  my  motto  being, 
 "  coute-qui-coute:' 
 
 END  OF  VOL.  T. 
 
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