)8 LIBRARY OF THE THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY PRINCETON, N. J. Donation of Messrs, R.L, and A, Stuart Division. Section. TjTV ^9 IKE VICTORIA FALLS, OF THE LEJSAMBTE CK ZiMBESI 1UV£P .lALLED BV TH i Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015 https://archive.org/details/nnissionarytravelOOIivi_0 MISSIONARY TRAVELS RESEARCHES IN SOUTH AFRICA; INCLUDING A SKETCH OF SIXTEEN YEARS' RESIDENCE IN THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA, AND A JOURNEY FROM THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO LOANDA ON THE WEST COAST ; THENCE ACROSS THE CONTINENT, DOWN THE RIVER ZAMBESI, TO THE EASTERN OCEAN. BY DAVID LIVINGSTONE, LL.D, D.C.L., FKM.OW OF THK FACULTY OF THYSICIAXS AND SITRGF.ONS, CLASfiOAV ; 0ORUF.SPOXDIXO MKMBliU OV THK nrOr.RAPHTOAr. and STAXrSTICAr, SOCIRTY op new YOIIK ; cold JrF.DAT.U.ST and COURKSrONDTXri MF^IBKR OF THF ROYAI, GKOORAFHICAL SOCIKTIE8 OF LONDON AND PAUL'', F.S.A., ETC. ETC. T$Ctse Fllj.-Majjmfied.-Sec p. 571 . ■U'lTII PORTRAIT ; MAPS PV ARRO-n'PifTTII ; AND NTirFROr'; ILLl'tTH ATIONS. LONDON: JOHN MURKAY^ ALBEMARLE STREET. 1857. The rigid • 7. Hottentots. — Women returning from the Water, and Men around a dead Hartebeeste # — 8. Lake Ngami, discovered by Oswell, Murray, and Livingstone . . . . — *it5 9. New African Antelopes (Poku and Leche) — 1 0. Three Lions attempting to drag down a Buffalo — 1-10 1 1 . Buffixlo Cow defending her Calf — 12. Mopane or Bauhinia Leaves, -with the Insect ai\d its edible Secretions . . . . 1C4 ] Presentation at Court (to Mosilikatse) of two successful young Lion- hunters — 171 14. Egyptian Pestle and "Mortar, Sieves, Corn-vessels, and Kilt 195 15. ABatokaHoe 198 16. Bechuana Reed-Dance by Moonlight — 225 17. A new or striped A'aiiety of Eland, found north of Seshekc .. .. — 210 18. Mode in which the female Hippopotamus carries her Calf while young — 242 19. Reception of the Mission by Shinte — 291 20. The Marimba, or Musical Instrument of the Balonda 29;i 21. Shell, and Ornament made of its end '. 300 22. River Scenery on the West Coast — 332 23. Seed-vessel of the Grapple-plant .. 340 24. Bashinje Chief's mode of wealing the Hair 3G5 25. Scene in Angola. — The Angolese Palanquin under a Baobab and Euphorbias . . . . — 374 26. Scene at a Sleeping-place in Angola — 380 27. St. Paul de Loanda.— The Fort of San IMigucl on the right .... — 394 28. Ancient Spinning and Weaving, perpetuated in Africa at the present day. — From Wilkinson's * Ancient Egyptians ' 400 29. Double-handled Angola Hoe .. .. " 408 30. Group of Native Women under the Mokolane Palms — 412 31. A few of the Rocks of Pungo Andongo 420 32-34. Londa Ladies' modes of wearing the Hair 449, 450 35. A young Man's fashion , . . . 451 36. An African Chief's notion of Dignity 481 37. Boat capsized by a Hippopotamus robbed of her young — 498 38. Bashukulompo mode of wearing the Hair 557 39. Female Elephant pursued with Javelins, protectuig lier young . . . . — 562 40. Coins of Faustina the Elder and Septimius Severus 564 41. Ideal Section across South Central Africa — 569 42. The Tsetse 571 43. The Travelling Procession interrupted — 588 44. TheBuaze 646 45. The Kumbanzo Leaves, Pods, and Seeds 64 S 46. Map of South Africa . . 1 j^j^^ Arrowsmith At the end. Frrin a Torlniit liylfmjy Thill ips JOURNEYS Am RESEARCHES IN SOUTH AFRICA. INTKODUCTION. Personal sketch — Highland ancestors — Family traditions — Grandfather removes to the Lowlands — Parents — Early labours and efforts — Evening school — Love of reading — Religious' impressions — Medical education — Youthful travels — Geology — Mental discipline — Study in Glasgow — London Missionary Society — Native village — Medical diploma — Theological studies — Departure for Africa — No claim to literary accomplishments. My own inclination would lead me to say as Kttle as possible about myself; but several friends, in w^liose judgment I have confidence, have suggested that, as the reader likes to know something about the author, a short account of his origin and early life w^ould lend additional interest to this book. Such is my excuse for the following egotism ; and, if an apology be necessary for giving a genealogy, I find it in the fact that it is not very long, and contains only one incident of which I have reason to be proud. Our great-grandfather fell at the battle of Culloden, fighting for the old line of kings; and our grandfather was a small farmer in Ulva, where my father was born. It ls one of that cluster of the Hebrides thus alluded to by Walter Scott : — " And Ulva dark, and Colonsay, And all the group of islets gay That guard famed Staffa round." * Our grandfather was intimately acquainted with all the tra- ditionary legends which that great writer has since made use of * Lord of the Isles, canto iv. B 2 THE AUTHOR*S ANCESTOES. Inteod . in the * Tales of a Grandfather ' and other works. As a boy I remember listening to him mth delight, for his memory was stored with a never-ending stock of stories, many of which were wonderfully like those I have since heard while sitting by the African evening fires. Our grandmother, too, used to sing Gaelic songs, some of which, as she believed, had been composed by captive islanders languishing hopelessly among the Turks. Grandfather could give particulars of the Kves of his an- cestors for six generations of the family before him ; and the only point of the tradition I feel proud of is this. One of these poor hardy islanders was renowned in the district for great wisdom and prudence ; and it is related that, when he was on his deathbed, he called all his children around him and said, " Now, in my lifetime, I have searched most carefully through all the traditions I could find of our family, and I never could discover that there was a dishonest man among our forefathers. If there- fore any of you or any of your children should take to dishonest ways, it will not be because it runs in our blood ; it does not belong to you. I leave this precept with you : Be honest." If therefore in the following pages I fall into any errors, I hope they will be dealt with as honest mistakes, and not as indicating that I have forgotten our ancient motto. This event took place at a time when the Highlanders, according to Macaulay, were much like the Cape Cafires, and any one, it was said, could escape punishment for cattle-stealing by presenting a share of the plunder to his chieftain. Our ancestors were Eoman Catholics ; they were made Protestants by the laird comuig round with a man haviag a yellow staff, which would seem to have attracted more attention than his teaching, for the new rehgion went long afterwards, perhaps it does so stiQ, by the name of " the religion of the yellow stick." Finding his farm in Ulva insufficient to support a numerous family, my grandfather removed to Blantyre AVorks, a large cotton manufactory on the beautiful Clyde, above Glasgow ; and his sons, having had the best education the Hebrides afforded, were gladly received as clerks by the proprietors, Monteith and Co. He himself, highly esteemed for liis unflinching honesty, was employed in the conveyance of large sums of money from Glasgow to the works, and in old age was, according to the Introd. EARLY LABOUES AND INSTRUCTION. 3 custom of that company, pensioned off, so as to spend his de- clining years in ease and comfort. Our uncles all entered His Majesty's service during the last French war, either as soldiers or sailors ; but my father remained at home, and, though too conscientious ever to become rich as a small tea-dealer, by his kindliness of manner and winning ways he made the heartstrings of his children tAvine around him as fiimly as if he had possessed, and could have bestowed upon them, every worldly advantage. He reared his children in con- nection with the Kirk of Scotland — a religious estabhshment which has been an incalculable blessing to that countr}' — but he afterwards left it, and during the last twenty years of his life held the office of deacon of an independent church in Hamilton, and deserved my lasting gratitude and homage for presenting me from infancy with a continuously consistent pious example, such as that the ideal of which is so beautifully and truthfully portrayed in Bums' 'Cottar's Saturday Xight.' He died in February, 1856, in peaceful hope of that mercy which we aU expect through the death of our Lord and Saviour: I was at the time on my way below Zumbo, expecting no greater pleasure in this country than sitting by our cottage fire and telling him my travels. I revere his memory. The earliest recollection of my mother recalls a picture so often seen among the Scottish poor — that of the anxious houseT\ife striving to make both ends meet. At the age of ten I was put into the factory as a " piecer," to aid by my earnings in lessening her anxiety. With a part of my first week's wages I purchased Ruddiman's ' Eudiments of Latin,' and pursued the study of that language for many years afterwards, with unabated ardour, at an evening school, which met between the hours of eight and ten. The dictionary part of my labours was followed up till twelve o'clock, or later, i£ my mother did not interfere by jumping up and snatching the books out of my hands. I had to be back in the factory by six in the morning, and continue my work, with intervals for breakfast and dinner, till eight o'clock at night. I read in this '^ ay many of the classical authors, and knew YirgU and Horace better at sixteen than I do now. Our schoolmaster — happily still alive — was supported in part by the company ; he was attentive and kind, and so moderate in his charges that 4 RELIGIOUS BIPRESSIONS. Inteod. all who wished for education might have obtained it. Many availed themselves of the privilege ; and some of my school- fellows now rank in positions far above what they appeared ever likely to come to when in the village school. If such a system were established in England, it would prove a never-ending blessing to the poor. In reading, ever}i;hing that I could lay my hands on was de- voured exce23t novels. Scientific works and books of travels were my especial delight ; though my father, beKeving, with many of his time who ought to have known better, that the former were inimical to reKgion, would have preferred to have seen me poring over the ' Cloud of Witnesses,' or Boston's ' Fourfold State.' Our difference of opinion reached the point of open rebellion on my part, and his last application of the rod was on my refusal to peruse Wilberforce's ^Practical Christianity.' This disKke to dry doctrinal reading, and to religious reading of every sort, continued for years afterwards ; but having lighted on those admirable works of Dr. Thomas Dick, * The Pliilosophy of Re- ligion,' and ' The Philosophy of a Future State,' it was gratifying to find my own. ideas, that religion and science are not hostile, but friendly to each other, fully proved and enforced. Great pains had been taken by my parents to instil the doctrines of Christianity into my mind, and I had no difiiculty in understanding the theory of our free salvation by the atonement of our Saviour, but it was only about this time that I really began to feel the necessity and value of a personal application of the provisions of that atonement to my o^tl case. The change was like what may be supposed would take place were it possible to cure a case of " colour blindness." The perfect freeness mth which the pardon of all our guilt is offered in God's book drew forth feelings of affectionate love to Him who bought us with his blood, and a sense of deep obligation to Him. for his mercy has influenced, iu some small measure, my conduct ever since. But I shall not agaia refer to the inner spiritual life wliich I beheve then began, nor do I intend to specify vdth. any prominence the evangelistic labom'S to wliich the love of Chiist has since impelled me : this book yvill speak not so much of what has been done, as of what still remains to be performed before the gospel can be said to be preached to all nations. Introd. YOUTHFUL EXCURSIONS. 5 In the glow of love which Christianity inspires, I soon resolved to devote my life to the alleviation of human misery. Turning this idea over in my mind, I felt that to be a pioneer of Chris- tianity in China might lead to the material benefit of some portions of that immense empire ; and therefore set myself to obtain a medical education, in order to be qualified for that enterprise. In recognising the plants pointed out in my first medical book, that extraordinary old work on astrological medicine, Culpeper's * Herbal,' I had the guidance of a book on the plants of Lanark- shire, by Patrick. Limited as my time was, I found opportunities to scour the whole country-side, " collecting simples." Deep and anxious were my studies on the still deeper and more perplexing profundities of astrology, and I believe I got as far into that abyss of fantasies as my author said he dared to lead me. It seemed perilous ground to tread on farther, for the dark liint seemed to my youthful mind to loom towards " selling soul and body to the devil," as the price of the unfathomable know- ledge of the stars. These excursions, often in company with brothers, one now in Canada, and the other a clergyman in the United States, gratified my intense love of nature ; and though we generally returned so unmercifully hungry and fatigued that the embryo parson shed tears, yet we discovered so many to us new and interesting things, that he was always as eager to join us next time as he was the last. On one of these exploring tours we entered a limestone quarry — long before geology was so popular as it is now. It is impossible to describe the delight and wonder with which I began to collect the shells found in the carboniferous limestone which crops out in High Blantyre and Cambuslang. A quarryman, seeiQg a little boy so engaged, looked with that pityiug eye which the benevolent assume when viewing the uisane. Ad- dressing him with, " How ever did these shells come into these rocks ? " " When God made the rocks, he made the shells iu them," was the damping reply. What a deal of trouble geolo- gists might have saved themselves by adopting the Turk-like philosophy of this Scotchman ! My reading while at work was carried on by placing the book on a portion of the spinning jenny, so that I could catch sentence 6 THE AUTHOE'S NATIVE VILLAGE. Introd. after sentence as I passed at my work ; I tlius kept up a pretty constant study undisturbed by the roar of tbe machinery. To tbis part of my education I owe my present power of completely abstracting the mind from surrounding noises, so as to read and write with perfect comfort amidst the play of children or near the danciQg and songs of savages. The toil of cotton-spinning, to which I was promoted in my nineteenth year, was excessively severe on a slim loose-jointed lad, but it was well paid for ; and it enabled me to support myself while attending medical and Greek classes in Glasgow in winter, as also the divinity lectures of Dr. Wardlaw, by working with my hands ia summer. I never received a farthing of aid from any one, and should have accom- plished my project of going to Cliina as a medical missionary in the course of time by my own efforts, had not some friends advised my joining the London Missionary Society on account of its perfectly unsectarian character. It " sends neither episcopacy, nor presbyterianism, nor independency, but the gospel of Chi'ist to the heathen." This exactly agreed with my ideas of what a Missionary Society ought to do ; but it was not without a pang that I offered myself, for it was not quite agreeable to one accus- tomed to work his own way to become in a measure dependent on others. And I would not have been much put about, though my offer had been rejected. Looking back now on that life of toil, I cannot but feel thank- ftd that it formed such a material part of my early education ; and, were it possible, I should like to begin life over again in the same lowly style, and to pass through the same hardy training. Time and travel have not effaced the feelings of respect I imbibed for the humble inhabitants of my native village. For morality, honesty, and intelligence, they were in general good specimens of the Scottish poor. Li a population of more than two thousand souls we had, of course, a variety of character. In addition to the common run of men, there were some characters of sterLmg worth and ability, who exerted a most beneficial influence on the children and youth of the place by imparting gratuitous religious instruction.* Much intelligent interest was * The reader will pardon my mentioning the names of two of these most worthy men — David Hogg, who addressed me on his death-bed with the words, *' Now, lad ! make religion the every-day business of your life, and not a Introd. MEDICAL DIPLOMA. 7 felt by tlie villagers in aU public questions, and they fumislied a proof that tbe possession of the means of education did not render them an unsafe portion of the population. They felt kindly towards each other, and much respected those of the neighbouring gentry who, like the late Lord Douglas, placed some confidence in their sense of honour. Through the kindness of that nobleman, the poorest among us could stroll at pleasure over the ancient domains of Bothwell, and other spots hallowed by the venerable associations of which our school-books and local traditions made us well aware ; and few of us could view the dear memorials of the past without feeling that these carefully kept monuments were our own. The masses of the working people of Scotland have read history, and are no revolutionary levellers. They rejoice in the memories of " Wallace' and Bruce and a' the lave," who are still much revered as the former champions of freedom. And while foreigners imagine that we want the spirit only to overturn capitalists and aristocracy, we are content to respect our laws till we can change them, and hate those stupid revolutions which might sweep away time-honoured iostitutions, dear alike to rich and poor. Having finished the medical curriculum and presen^d a thesis on a subject which required the use of the stethoscope for its diagnosis, I unmttiQgly procured for myself an examination rather more severe and prolonged than usual among examining bodies. The reason was, that between me and the examiners a sKght difference of opioion existed as to whether this iustrument could do what was asserted. The ^Y^ser plan would have been to have had no opinion of my own. However, I was admitted a Licentiate of Faculty of Physicians and Surgeons. It was with unfeigned deKght I became a member of a profession which is pre-eminently devoted to practical benevolence, and which with unwearied energy pursues from age to age its endeavours to lessen human woe. But though now qualified for my original plan, the opium war thing of fits and starts ; for if you do not, temptation and other things will get the better of you :" and Thomas Burke, an old Forty-second Peninsula soldier, who has been incessant and never weary in good works for about forty years. I was delighted to find him still alive ; men like these are an honour to their country and profession. 8 NO CLAIM TO LITEEAEY MEEIT. Introd. was then raging, and it was deemed inexpedient for me to proceed to China. I had fondly hoped to have gained access to that then closed empire by means of the healing art ; but there being no prospect of an early peace vdth the Chinese, and as another inviting field was opening out through the labours of ]\Ir. Moffat, I was induced to turn my thoughts to Africa ; and after a more extended course of theological training in England than I had enjoyed in Glasgow, I embarked for Africa in 1840, and, after a voyage of three months, reached Cape Town. Spending but a short time there, I started for the interior by going round to Algoa Bay, and soon proceeded inland, and have spent the fol- lowing sixteen years of my life, namely, from 1840 to 1856, in medical and missionary labours there without cost to the inha- bitants. As to those literary qualifications which are acquired by habits of writing, and which are so important to an author, my African life has not only not been favourable to the growth of such accom- plishments, but quite the reverse : it has made composition irk- some and laborious. I think I would rather cross the African continent again than undertake to write another book. It is far easier to travel than to write about it, I intended on going to Africa to continue my studies ; but as I could not brook the idea of simply entering into other men's labom'S made ready to my hands, I entailed on myself, in addition to teaching, manual labour in building and other handicraft work, which made me generally as much exhausted and unfit for study in the evenings as ever I had been when a cotton-spioner. The want of time for seK-unprovement was the only source of regret that I experienced duruig my African career. The reader remembering tliis wiU make allowances for the mere gropings for light of a student who has the vanity to tliink himseK " not yet too old to learn." More precise information on several subjects has necessarily been omitted in a popular work like the present ; but I hope to give such details to the scientific reader through some other channel Chap. I. THE BAKWAIN COUNTRY. 9 CHAPTEK I. The Bakwain country — Study of the language — Native ideasj regarding comets — Mabotsa station — A lion encounter — Virus of the teeth of lions — Names of the Bechuana tribes — Sechele — His ancestors — Obtains the chieftainship — His marriage and government — The Kotla — First public religious services — Sechele's questions — He learns to read — Novel mode for converting his tribe — Surprise at their indiffer- ence — Polygamy — Baptism of Sechele — Opposition of the natives — Purchase land at • Chonuane — Relations with the people — Their intel- ligence — Prolonged drought — Consequent trials — Rain-medicine — God's word blamed — Native reasoning — Rain-maker — Dispute be- tween rain doctor and medical doctor — The hunting hopo — Salt or animal food a necessary of life — Duties of a missionary. The general instructions I received from the Dii*ectors of the London Missionary Society led me, as soon as I reached Kuruman or Lattakoo, then, as it is now, their farthest inland station from the Cape, to turn my attention to the north. Without waiting longer at Kuruman than was necessary to recruit the oxen, which were pretty well tired by the long journey from Algoa Bay, I proceeded, in company with another missionary, to the Bakuena or Bakwain country, and found Sechele, with his tribe, located at Shokuane. We shortly after retraced our steps to Kuruman ; but as the objects in view were by no means to be attained by a temporary excifrsion of tliis sort, I determined to make a fresh start into the interior as soon as possible. Accordingly, after resting three months at Kuruman, which is a kind of head station in the country, I returned to a spot about fifteen miles south of Shokuane, called Lepelole (now Litubartiba). Here, in order to obtain an accurate knowledge of the language, I cut'^yself off from all European society for about six months, and gained by this ordeal an insight into the habits, ways of thinking, laws, and language of that section of the Bechuanas, called Bakwains, which has proved of incalculable advantage in my intercourse with them ever since. In this second journey to Lepelole — so called from a cavern of that name — I began preparations for a settlement, by making a canal to irrigate gardens, from a stream then flowing copiously, 10 IDEAS EEGAEDING COMETS. Chap. I. but now quite dry. Wlien these preparations were well advanced, I went northwards to visit the Bakaa and Bamangwato, and the Makalaka, living between 22° and 23° south lat. The Bakaa mountains had been visited before by a trader, who, with his people, all perished from fever. In going round the northern part of these basaltic hills near Letloche I was only ten days distant from the lower part of the Zouga, which passed by the same name as Lake Ngami ;* and I might then (in 1842) have discovered that lake, had discovery alone been my object. Most part of this journey beyond Shokuane was performed on foot, in consequence of the draught oxen having become sick. Some of my companions who had recently joined us, and did not know that I understood a little of their speech, were overheard by me discussing my appearance and powers : " He is not strong, he is quite slim, and only appears stout because he puts himself into those bags (trousers) ; he will soon knock up." This caused my Highland blood to rise, and made me despise the fatigue of keeping them all at the top of their speed for days together, and until I heard them expressing proper opinions of my pedes- trian powers. Keturning to Kuruman, in order to bring my luggage to our proposed settlement, I was followed by the news that the tribe of Bakwains, who had shown themselves so friendly towards me, had been driven from Lepelole by the Barolongs, so that my prospects for the time of forming a settlement there were at an end. One of those periodical outbreaks of war, which seem to have occurred from time immemorial, for the possession of cattle, had burst forth in the land, and had so changed the relations of the tribes to each other, that I was obliged to set out anew to look for a suitable locality for a mission station. In going north again, a comet blazed on our sight, exciting the wonder of every tribe we visited. That of 1816 had been followed by an irruption of the Matebele, the most cruel enemies * Several words in the African languages tegin with the ringing sound heard in the end of the word " coming.^* If the reader puts an i to the beginning of the name of the lake, as Ingami, and then sounds the i as little as possible, he will have the correct pronunciation. The Spanish n is em- ployed to denote this sound, and Kgami is spelt nami — naka means a tusk, naka a doctor. Every vowel is sounded in all native words, and the em- phasis in pronunciation is put upon the penultimate. Chap. I. RAVAGES OF LIONS. 11 the Bechuanas ever knew, and tliis they thought might portend something as bad, or it might only foreshadow the death of some great chief. On the subject of comets I knew little more than they did themselves, but I had that confidence in a kind over-ruling Providence which makes such a difference between Christians and both the ancient and modem heathen. As some of the Bamangwato people had accompanied me to Kuruman, I was obKged to restore them and their goods to their chief Sekomi. This made a journey to the residence of that chief again necessary, and, for the first time, I performed a dis- tance of some hundred miles on ox-back. Keturning towards Kuruman, I selected the beautifal valley of Mabotsa (lat. 25° 14' south, long. 26° 30' ?) the site- of a missionary station ; and thither I removed in 1843. Here an occurrence took place concerning which I have frequently been questioned in England, and which, but for the importunities of friends, I meant to have kept in store to tell my children when in my dotage. The Bakatla of the village Mabotsa were much troubled by lions, which leaped into the cattle-pens by. night, and destroyed their cows. They even attacked the herds in open day. This was so unusual an occurrence that the people believed that they were bewitched — "given," as they said, "into the power of the lions by a neighbouring tribe." They went once to attack the animals, but, being rather a cowardly people compared to Bechuanas in general on such occasions, they returned without killing any. It is well known that if one in a troop of lions is killed the others take the hint and leave that part of the country. So the next time the herds were attacked, I went with the people, in order to encourage them to rid themselves of the annoyance by destroying one of the marauders. We found the lions on a small hiU about a quarter of a mile in length, and covered with trees. A circle of men w^as formed round it, and they gradually closed up, ascending pretty near to each other. Being down below on the plain with a native schoolmaster, named Mebalwe, a most excellent man, I saw one of the Hons sitting on a piece of rock witliin the now closed circle of men. Mebalwe fired at him before I could, and the ball sti'uck the rock on which the animal was sitting. He bit at the spot struck, as a dog does at a stick or stone 12 A LION ENCOUNTER. Chap. I. thrown at Mm; tlieii leaping away, broke tlirougli the opening circle and escaped unhurt. The men were afraid to attack him, perhaps on account of their belief in witchcraft. When the circle was re-formed, we saw two other lions in it ; but we were afraid to fire lest we should strike the men, and they allowed the beasts to burst through also. If the Bakatla had acted according to the custom of the country, they would have speared the lions in their attempt to get out. Seeing we could not get them to kill one of the Hons, we bent our footsteps towards the village ; in going round the end of the hill, however, I saw one of the beasts sitting on a piece of rock as before, but this time he had a little bush in front. Being about thirty yards off, I took a good aim at his body through the bush, and fired both barrels into it. The men then called out, " He is shot, he is shot ! " Others cried, " He has been shot by another man too ; let us go to him ! " I did not see any one else shoot at him, but I saw the lion's tail erected in anger behind the bush, and, turning to the peoj)le, said, "Stop a little till I load again." When in the act of ramming down the bullets I heard a shout. Starting, and looking haK round, I saw the lion just in the act of springing upon me. I was upon a little height ; he caught my shoulder as he sprang, and we both came to the ground below together. Growling horribly close to my ear, he shook me as a terrier dog does a rat. The shock produced a stupor similar to that which seems to be felt by a mouse after the first shake of the cat. It caused a sort of dreaminess, in which there was no sense of pain nor feeling of terror, though quite conscious of all that was happening. It was like what patients partially under the influence of chloroform describe, who see aU the operation, but feel not the knife. This singular condition was not the result of any mental process. The shake annihilated fear, and allowed no sense of horror in looking round at the beast. This pecu- liar state is probably produced in all animals killed by the carnivora; and if so, is a merciful provision by our bene- volent Creator for lessening the pain of death. Turning round to relieve myself of the weight, as he had one paw on the back of my head, I saw his eyes directed to Mebalwe, who was trying to shoot him at a distance of ten or fifteen yards. His gun, a flint one, missed fire in both barrels ; the lion immediately left Chap. I. NA]MES OF BECHUAXA TRIBES. 13 me, and, attackiiig Mebalwe, bit his thigli. Another man, whose life I had saved before, after he had been tossed by a buffalo, attempted to spear the lion while he was biting Mebalwe. He left Mebalwe and caught this man by the shoulder, but at that moment the bullets he had received took effect, and he fell do^n dead. The whole was the work of a few moments, and must have been his paroxysm of dying rage. In order to take out the charm from him, the Bakatla on the follo^N-ing day made a huge bonfire over the carcase, which was declared to be that of the largest lion they had ever seen. Besides crunching the bone into splinters, he left eleven teeth wounds on the upper part of my arm. A wound from this animal's tooth resembles a gun-shot wound ; it is generally followed by a great deal of sloughing and dis- charge, and pains are felt in the part periodically ever afterwards. I had on a tartan jacket on the occasion, and I believe that it ^\-iped off all the virus from the teeth that pierced the flesh, for my two companions in this affray have both suffered from the pecu- liar pains, while I have escaped with only the inconvenience of a false joint in my limb. The man whose shoulder was wounded showed me his wound actually burst forth afresh on the same month of the follo^ving year. This curious point deserves the attention of inquirers. The different Bechuana tribes are named after certain animals, sho>\ing probably that in former times they were addicted to animal-worship like the ancient Egyptians. The term Bakatla means " they of the monkey ;" Bakuena, " they of the alligator Batlapi, they of the fish ;" each tribe having a superstitious dread of the animal after which it is called. They also use the word " bina," to dance, in reference to the custom of thus naming themselves, so that, when you wish to ascertain what tribe they belong to, you say, " What do you dance ? " It ^ouLd seem as if that had been a part of the worship of old. A tribe never eats the animal wliich is its namesake, using the term " Ha," hate or dread, in reference to killing it. We find traces of many ancient tribes in the country in individual members of those now extinct, as the Batau, "they of the lion;" the Banoga, "they of the serpent though no such tribes now exist. The use of the per- sonal pronoun they, Ba-Ma, Wa, Ya, or Ova, Am-Ki, &c., pre- vails very extensively in the names of tribes in Africa. A single 14 SECHELE. Chap. I. individual is indicated by the terms Mo or Le. Thus Mobwdin is a single person of the Bakwaia tribe, and Lekoa is a single white man or Englishman — Makoa being Englishmen. I attached myself to the tribe called Baknena, or Bakwains, the chief of which, named Sechele, was then living with his people at a place called Shoknane. I was from the first struck by his intelligence, and by the marked manner in which we both felt drawn to each other. As this remarkable man has not only embraced Christianity, but expounds its doctrines to his people, I will here give a brief sketch of his career. His great-grandfather Mochoasele was a great traveller, and the first that ever told the Bakwains of the existence of white men. In his father's lifetime two white travellers, whom I sup- pose to have been Dr. Cowan and Captain Donovan, passed through the country (in 1808), and descending the river Limpopo, were, with their party, all cut off by fever. The rain-makers there, fearing lest their waggons might drive away the rain, ordered them to be thrown into the river. This is the true account of the end of that expedition, as related to me by the son of the chief at whose village they perished. He remembered, when a boy, eating part of one of the horses, and said it tasted Kke zebra's flesh. Thus, they were not killed by the Bangwaketse, as reported, for they passed the Bakwains all well. The Bakwains were then rich in cattle ; and as one of the many evidences of the desiccation of the country, streams are pointed out where thou- sands and thousands of cattle formerly drank, but in which water now never flows, and where a single herd could not find fluid for its support When Sechele was still a boy, his father, also called Mochoasele, was murdered by his own people for taking to himself the wives of his rich underchiefs. The children being spared, their friends invited Sebituane, the chief of the Makololo, who was then in those parts, to reinstate them hi the chieftainship. Sebituane surrounded the town of the Bakwains by night ; and just as it began to dawn his herald proclaimed in a loud voice that he had come to revenge the death of Mochoasele. This was followed by Sebituane's people beatiag loudly on their shields all round the town. The panic was tremendous, and the rush like that from a theatre on fire, while the Makololo used their javelins on the Chap. I. mS CHrEFTATN-SHIP. 15 terrified Bakwains -with a dexterity which they alone can employ. Sebituane had given orders to his men to spare the sons of the chief; and one of them, meeting Sechele, put him ia ward by giving him such a blow on the head with a club as to render him insensible. The usurper was put to death ; and Sechele, reinstated in his chieftainship, felt much attached to Sebituane. The cir- cumstances here noticed ultimately led me, as will be seen by and by, into the new well-watered country to which this same Sebituane had preceded me by many years. Sechele married the daughters of three of his underchiefs, who had, on account of their blood relationship, stood by him in his adversity. This is one of the modes adopted for cementing the allegiance of a tribe. The government is patriarchal, each man being, by virtue of paternity, chief of his o^vn children. They build their huts around his, and the greater the number of children the more his importance increases. Hence childi-en are esteemed one of the greatest blessings, and are always treated kindly. Near the centre of each circle of huts there is a spot called a " kotla," vsdth a fireplace ; here they work, eat, or sit and gossip over the news of the day. A poor man attaches him- self to the kotla of a rich one, and is considered a child of the latter. An underchief has a number of these circles around his ; and the collection of kotlas around the great one in the middle of the whole, that of the principal chief, constitutes the town. The circle of huts immediately around the kotla of the chief is composed of the huts of his wives, and those of his blood relations. He attaches the underchiefs to himself and his government by marrying, as Sechele did, their daughters, or inducing his brothers to do so. They are fond of the relationship to great families. If you meet a party of strangers, and the head man's relationship to some uncle of a certain chief is not at once proclaimed by his attendants, you may hear him whispering, " Tell him who I am." This usually involves a counting on the fingers of a part of his genealogical tree ; and ends in the important announce- ment that the head of the party is half-cousin to some well- kno^vn ruler. Sechele was thus seated in his chieftainship when I made his acquaintance. On the first occasion in which I ever attempted to hold a public religious service, he remarked that it was the 16 SECHELE LEAEXS TO EEAD. Chap. I. custom of Lis nation, when any new subject was brought before them, to put questions on it ; and he begged me to allow him to do the same in this case. On expressing my entire willingness to answer his questions, he inquired if my forefathers knew of a future judgment. I replied in the affirmative, and began to describe the scene of the " great white throne, and Him who shall sit on it, from whose face the heaven and earth shall flee away," &c. He said, " You startle me — these words make all my bones to shake — I have no more strength in me : but my forefathers were living at the same time yours were, and how is it that they did not send them word about these terrible things sooner ? They all passed away into darkness without knowing whither they were going." I got out of the difficulty by explaining the geographical barriers in the North, and the gradual spread of knowledge from the South, to which we first had access by means of ships ; and I expressed my belief that, as Christ had said, the whole world would yet be enlightened by the Gospel. Pointing to the great Kalahari desert, he said, " You never can cross that country to the tribes beyond ; it is utterly impossible even for us black men, except in certain seasons, when more than the usual supply of rain falls, and an extraordinary groA»\i;h of water-melons follows. Even we who know the country would certainly perish without them." Ke-asserting my belief in the words of Christ, we parted ; and it ^ill be seen further on that Sechele himself assisted me in crossing that desert which had previously proved an insur- mountable barrier to so many adventurers. As soon as he had an opportunity of learning, he set himself to read with such close application that, from being compara- tively thin, the effect of having been fond of the chase, he became quite corpulent from want of exercise. ]\Ir. Oswell gave him his first lesson in figures, and he acquired the alphabet on the first day of my residence at Chonuane. He was by no means an ordinary specimen of the people, for I never went into the town but I was pressed to hear him read some chapters of the Bible. Isaiah was a great favourite with him ; and he was wont to use the same phrase nearly which the professor of Greek at Glasgow, Sir D. K. Sandford, once used respecting the Apostle Paul, when reading his speeches in the Acts : " He was a fine fellow, that Paul !" He was a fine man, that Isaiah ; Chap. I. HIS DESIEE TO CONVEET HIS TEIBE. 17 he knew how to speak." Sechele invariably offered me some- thing to eat on every occasion of my visiting him. Seeing me anxious that his people should believe the words of Christ, he once said, " Do you imagine these people will ever believe by your merely talking to them ? I can make them do nothing except by thrashing them ; and if you like, I shall call my head men, and with our Ktupa (whips of rhinoceros-liide) we will soon make them all believe together." ^ The idea of using entreaty and persuasion to subjects to become Christians — whose opinion on no other matter would he condescend to ask — was especially surprising to him. He considered that they ought only to be too happy to embrace Christianity at his command. During the space of two years and a half he continued to profess to his people liis full conviction of the truth of Christianity ; and in all discussions on the subject he took that side, acting at the same time in an upright manner in all the relations of life. He felt the difficulties of his situation long before I did, and often said, " 0, I wish you had come to this country before I became entangled in the meshes of our customs !" In fact, he could not get rid of his superfluous wives, without appearing to be ungratefid to their parents, who had done so much for him in his adversity. In the hope that others would be induced to join liim in his attaclunent to Clu-istianity, he asked me to begin family worship with him in his house. I did so ; and by-and-by was surprised to hear how well he conducted the prayer in his own simple and beautiful style, for he was quite a master of liis own language. At this time we were suffering from the effects of a di'ouglit, (which will be described further on] and none except his family, whom he ordered to attend, came near his meeting. " In former times," said he, "when a chief was fond of hunting, all liis people got dogs and became fond of hunting too. If he was fond of dancmg or music, all showed a liking to these amuse- ments too. If the chief loved beer, they all rejoiced in strong diinlv. But in this case it is different. I love the ^A"ord of God, and not one of my brethren will join me." One reason why we had no volunteer hj^Docrites was the hunger from di*ought, which was associated in their minds ^ith the presence of Christian in- struction ; and h}^ocrisy is not prone to profess a creed which seems to ensure an empty stomach. c 18 BAPTISM OF SECHELE. Chap. I. Secliele continued to make a consistent profession for about three years ; and perceiving at last some of the difficulties of his case, and also feeling compassion for the poor women, who were by far the best of our scholars, I had no desire that he should be in any hurry to make a fall profession by baptism, and putting away all his wives but one. His principal wife, too, was about the most unlikely subject in the tribe ever to become anything else than an out-and-out greasy disciple of the old school, f She has since become greatly altered, I hear, for the better; but again and again have I seen Sechele send her out of church to put her gown on, and away she would go with her lips shot out, the very picture of unutterable disgust at his new- fangled notions. Wlien he at last applied for baptism, I simply asked him how he, having the Bible in his hand, and able to read it, thought he ought to act. He went home, gave each of his superfluous wives new clothing, and all liis own goods, which they had been ac- customed to keep in their huts for him, and sent them to their parents with an intimation that he had no fault to find with them, but that in parting with them he wished to follow the will of God. On the day on wliich he and his children were baptized, great numbers came to see the ceremony. Some thought, from a stupid calumny circulated by enemies to Christianity in the south, that the converts would be made to di'ink an infusion of " dead men's brains," and were astonished to find that water only was used at baptism. Seeing several of the old men actually in tears during the service, I asked them afterwards the cause of their weeping ; they were crying to see their father, as the Scotch remark over a case of suicide, "so far left to himself" They seemed to think that I had thrown the glamour over him and that he had become mine. Here commenced an opposition wliich we had not previously experienced. All the friends of the divorced wives became the opponents of our religion. The at- tendance at school and church diminished to very few besides the chief's own family. They all treated us stiQ with respectful kindness, but to Sechele himself they said things which, as he often remarked, had they ventured on in former times, would have cost them their lives."^ It was trying, after all we had done, to see our labours so Kttle appreciated; but we had sowti the Chap. I. RELATIONS WITH THE PEOPLE. 19 good seed, and have no doubt but it yet spring up, though we may not live to see the fruits. Leading this sketch of the cliief, I proceed to give an equally rapid one of our dealing with his people, the Bakuena, or Bak- wsims. A small piece of land, sufficient for a garden, was pur- chased when we first went to live with them, though that was scarcely necessary in a country where the idea of buying land was quite new. It was expected that a request for a suitable spot would have been made, and that we should have proceeded to occupy it, as any other member of the tribe would. But we explained to them -that we ^vished to avoid any cause of future dispute when land had become more valuable ; or when a foolish chief began to reign, and we had erected large or expensive buildings, he might wish to claim the whole. These reasons were considered satisfactory. About 51. worth of goods were given for a piece of land, and an arrangement was come to that a similar piece should be allotted to any other mis- sionary, at any other place to which the tribe might remove. The particulars of the sale sounded strangely in the ears of the tribe, but were nevertheless readily agreed to. In our relations ^ith this people we were simply strangers exercising no authority or control whatever. Our influence de- pended entirely on persuasion ; and, having taught them by kind conversation as well as by public instruction, I expected them to do what their own sense of right and \^Tong dictated. Vie never wished them to do right merely because it would be pleasing to us, nor thought ourselves to blame when they did wrong, although we were quite aware of the absurd idea to that effect. We saw that our teaching did good to the general mind of the people by bringing new and better motives into play. Five instances are positively known to me in which by our influence on pubKc opinion war was prevented ; and where, in indi^-idual cases, we failed, the people did no worse than they did before we came into the country. In general they were slow, like all the African people hereafter to be described, in coming to a decision on re- ligious subjects ; but in questions affecting their worldly aftafrs they were keenly alive to their o^vn interests. They might be called stupid in matters which had not come within the sphere of their observation, but in other things they showed more c 2 20 PROLONGED DROUGHT. Chap. I. intelligence than is to be met mth in our own uneducated pea- santry. They are remarkably accurate in then- knowledge of cattle, sheep, and goats, knowing exactly the kind of j)asturage suited to each ; and they select mth great judgment the varieties of soil best suited to different kinds of grain. They are also familiar with the habits of wild animals, and in general are well up in the maxims which embody then- ideas of political wisdom. The place where we fii'st settled with the Bakwains is called Chonuane, and it happened to be ^dsited, during the first year of our residence there, by one of those droughts which occur from time to time in even the most favoured districts of Afiica. The beKef in the gift or power of rain-making is one of the most deeply-rooted articles of faith in tliis country. The cliief Sechele was himself a noted rain-doctor, and beheved in it im- plicitly. He has often assured me that he found it more difficult to give up liis faith in that than in an}i;hing else which Chris- tianity requhed liim to abjure. I pointed out to him that the only feasible way of watering the gardens was to select some good never-failing river, make a canal, and irrigate the adjacent lands. This suggestion was immediately adopted, and soon the whole tribe was on the move to the Kolobeng, a stream about forty miles distant. The experiment succeeded admirably during the first year. The Bakwains made the canal and dam in ex- change for my labour in assisting to build a square house for their chief They also built their own school under my suj)erin- tendence. Our house at the river Kolobeng, which gave a name to the settlement, was the third which I had reared with my own hands. A native smith taught me to weld hon ; and having im- proved by scraps of information in that line from Mr. Moffat, and also in carpentering and gardening, I was becoming handy at almost any trade, besides doctoring and preacliing ; and as my wife could make candles, soap, and clothes, we came nearly up to what may be considered as indispensable in the accomplish- ments of a missionary family in Central Africa, namely, the husband to be a jack-of-all-trades without doors, and the Avife a maid-of-all-work T^itliin. But in our second year again no rain fell. In the thu'd the same extraordinary di'ought followed. Indeed, not ten inches of water fell during these two years, and the Kolobeng ran dry ; so many fish were killed that the hyaenas Chap. I. ACTIVITY OF THE ANT. 21 from the whole country round collected to the feast, and were unable to finish the putrid masses. A large old alligator, wliich had never been known to commit any depredations, was found left high and dry in the mud among the ^dctims. The foui'th year was equally unpropitious, the fall of rain being insufficient to bring the grain to maturity. Nothing could be more tr}dng. We dug do^m in the bed of the river deeper and deeper as the water receded, striving to get a little to keep the fruit-trees alive for better times, but in vain. Needles lying out of doors for months did not rust ; and a mixtui-e of sulphuric acid and water, used in a galvanic battery, parted vrith all its water to the air, instead of imbibing more from it, as it would have done in Eng- land. The leaves of indigenous trees were all drooping, soft, and slu-ivelled, though not dead; and those of the mimosae were closed at midday, the same as they are at night. In the midst of tliis dreary drought, it was wondeifiil to see those tiny crea- tures the ants running about vdth. their accustomed ^dvacity. I put the bulb of a thermometer three inches under the soil in the sun at midday, and found the mercury to stand at 132° to 134° ; and if certain kinds of beetles were placed on the surface, they ran about a few seconds and expired. But this broiling heat only augmented the activity of the long-legged black ants : they never tire ; their organs of motion seem endowed vrith the same j^ower as is ascribed by physiologists to the muscles of the human heart, by wliich that part of the fr-ame never becomes fatigued, and which may be imparted to all our bodily organs in that higher sphere to which we fondly hope to rise. Where do these ants get their moisture ? Our house was built on a hard ferruginous con- glomerate, in order to be out of the way of the wliite ant, but they came in despite the precaution ; and not only were they in this sultry weather able individually to moisten soil to the con- sistency of mortar for the formation of galleries, which in then- way of working is done by night (so that they are screened fi*om the observation of birds by day in passing and repassing towards any vegetable matter they may wish to devour), but, when their inner chambers were laid open, these were also surprisingly hu- mid ; yet there was no dew, and, the house being placed on a rock, they could have no subterranean passage to the bed of the river, which ran about tln-ee hundred yards below the hill. Can 22 RAIN-MEDICINE. Chap. I. it be that they have the power of combining the oxygen and hydrogen of their vegetable food by vital force so as to form water ? * Eain, however, would not fall ; the Bakwains believed that I had bound Sechele Avith some magic spell, and I received depu- tations in the evenings, of the old counsellors, entreating me to allow him to make only a few showers : " The com ^ill die if you refuse, and we shall become scattered. Only let him make rain this once, and we shall all, men, women, and children, come to the school and sing and pray as long as you please." It was in vain to protest that I wished Sechele to act just according to his own ideas of what was right, as he found the law laid dovm. in the Bible ; and it was distressing to appear hard-heai'ted to them. The clouds often collected promisingly over us, and rolling thunder seemed to portend refreshing showers, but next morning the sun would rise in a clear cloudless sky ; indeed, even these lowering appearances were less frequent by far than days of sun- shine are in London. The natives, finding it irksome to sit and wait helplessly until God gives them rain from heaven, entertain the more comfort- able idea that they can help themselves by a variety of prepara- tions, such as charcoal made of buxned bats, inspissated renal deposit of the mountain coney {Hyrax capensis) (wliich by the way is used in the form of pills as a good anti-spasmodic, under the name of " stone-sweat " t )? the internal parts of different animals — as jackals' livers, baboons' and lions' hearts, and hairy calcuH from the bowels of old cows — serpents' skins and vertebrae, and every kind of tuber, bulb, root, and plant to be found in the countiy. Although you disbelieve then- efficacy in charming the clouds to j)our out their refr-eshing treasures, yet, conscious that civility is useful everywhere, you kindly state that you think they are mistaken as to their power ; the rain-doctor selects a particular bulbous root, pounds it, and administers a cold infusion to a sheep, which in five minutes afterwards expires * When we come to Angola I shall describe an insect there which distils several pints of water every night. t The name arises from its being always voided on one spot, in the manner practised by others of the rhinocerontine family ; and by the action of the sun it becomes a black pitchy substance. Chap. I. CONVERSATION ON RAIN-MAKING. 23 in convulsions. Part of the same bulb is converted into smoke, and ascends towards the sky ; rain follows in a day or two. The inference is obvious. Were we as much harassed by di'oughts, the logic would be uTcsistible in England in 1857. As the Bakwains believed that there must be some connection between the presence of " God's Word " in their town and these successive and distressing droughts, they looked wdth no good will at the church-bell, but still they invariably treated us mth kind- ness and respect. I am not aware of ever having had an enemy in the tribe. The only avowed cause of dislike was expressed by a very influential and sensible man, the uncle of Sechele. " We like you as well as if you had been born among us ; you are the only white man we can become familiar with (thoaela) ; but we \nsh you to give up that everlasting preaching and praying ; we cannot become familiar with that at all. You see we never get rain, while those tribes who never pray as we do obtain abund- ance." This was a fact ; and we often saw it raining on the hills, ten miles off, while it would not look at us " even with one eye." If the Prince of the power of the air had no hand in scorcliing us up, I fear I often gave him the credit of doing so. As for the rain-makers, they carried the sympathies of the people along with them, and not without reason. With the following arguments they were all acquainted, and in order to understand their force we must place ourselves in their position, and believe, as they do, that all medicines act by a mysterious charm. The term for cure may be translated " charm " (alahd). Medical Doctor. — Hail, friend! How very many medicmes you have about you this morning ! Why, you have every medi- cine in the country here. Main Doctor. — Very true, my friend; and I ought; for the whole country needs the rain which I am making. M. D. — So you reaUy believe that you can command the clouds ? I think that can be done by God alone. R. D. — We both believe the very same thing. It is God that makes the rain, but I pray to him by means of these medicines, and, the rain coming, of course it is then mme. It was I who made it for the Bakwains for many years, when they were at Shokuane ; tlu:ough my wisdom, too, their women became fat and shining. Ask them ; they will teU you the same as I do. 24 CONVEKSATION ON EAIN-MAKLKG. Chap. I. M. D. — But we are distinctly told in the parting words of our Saviour that we can pray to God acceptably in His name alone, and not by means of medicines. B,. B. — Truly ! but God told us differently. He made black men first, and did not love us, as he did the white men. He made you beautiful, and gave you clothing, and guns, and gun- powder, and horses, and waggons, and many other things about which we know nothing. But toward us he had no heart. He gave us nothing, except the assegai, and cattle, and rain- making ; and he did not give us hearts like yours. We never love each other. Other tribes place medicines about our country to prevent the raia, so that we may be dispersed by hunger, and go to them, and augment their power. We must dissolve their charms by our mediciaes. God has given us one little thing, which you know nothing of. He has given us the knowledge of certain medicines by which we can make rain. We do not despise those things which you possess, though we are ignorant of them. We don't understand your book, yet we don't despise it. You ought not to despise our little knowledge, though you are ignorant of it. M. D. — I don't despise what I am ignorant of ; I only tliink you are mistaken in sa}dng that you have medicines which can influence the rain at all. H. D. — That's just the way people speak when they talk on a subject of which they have no knowledge. When we first opened our eyes, we found our forefathers making rain, and we follow in their footsteps. You, who send to Kuruman for corn, and hrigate your garden, may do Tvithout rain ; we cannot manage in that way. If we had no rain, the cattle would have no pasture, the cows give no milk, our children become lean and die, our wives run away to other tribes who do make rain and have com, and the whole tribe become dispersed and lost ; our fire would go out. M. D. — I quite agree with you as to the value of the rain ; but you cannot charm the clouds by medicines. You wait till you see the clouds come, then you use your medicines, and take the credit which belongs to God only. H. D. — I use my medicines, and you employ yours ; we are both doctors, and doctors are not deceivers. You give a patient medicine. Sometimes God is pleased to heal him by means of Chap. I. con^t:rsation on eaest-making. 25 your medicine : sometimes not — he dies. When he is cured, 3'ou take the credit of what God does. I do the same. Sometimes God grants us rain, sometimes not. When he does, we take the credit of the charm. ^Vhen a patient dies, you don't give up trust in youi' medicine, neither do I when rain fails. If you wish me to leave off my medicines, why continue your own ? 31. D. — I give medicine to Kving creatures within my reach, and can see the eftects though no cure follows ; you pretend to charm the clouds, which are so far above us that your medicines never reach them. The clouds usually He in one direction, and your smoke goes in. another. God alone can command the clouds. Only try and wait patiently ; God ^vill give us rain without your medicines. M. D. — Mahala-ma-kapa-a-a ! ! Well, I always thought white men were wise till this morning. Who ever thought of making trial of starvation ! Is death pleasant then ? M. D. — Could you make it rain on one spot and not on another ? M. D. — I wouldn't tliink of trpng. I lilvc to see the whole country green, and aU the people glad; the women clapping their hands and giving me their ornaments for thankfulness, and lullilooing for joy. M. D. — I tliink you deceive both them and yourself. R. B. — W^eU, then, there is a pair of us (meaning both are rogues). The above is only a specimen of their way of reasoning, in which, when the language is well understood, they are perceived to be remarkably acute. These arguments are generally known, and I never succeeded in convincing a single individual of their fallacy, though I tried to do so in exery way I could think of. Their faith in medicines as charms is unbounded. The general effect of argument is to produce the impression that you are not anxious for rain at aU ; and it is very undesirable to aUow the idea to spread that you do not take a generous interest in their welfare. An angry opponent of rain-making in a tribe would be looked upon as were some Greek merchants in England dm-ing the Eussian war. The conduct of the people during this long-continued drought was remarkably good. The women parted with most of their 26 THE HOPO. Chap. I. ornaments to purchase corn from more fortunate tribes. The children scoured the country in search of the numerous bulbs and roots which can sustain life, and the men engaged in hunting. Very great numbers of the large game, buffaloes, zebras, giraffes, tsessebes, kamas or hartebeests, kokongs or gnus, pallas, rhinoce- roses, &c., congregated at some fountains near Kolobeng, and the trap called "Aopo" was constructed in the lands adjacent for their destruction. The hopo consists of two hedges in the form of the letter V, which are very high and thick near the angle. Instead of the hedges being joined there, they are made to form a lane of about fifty yards in leng-th, at the extremity of which a pit is formed, six or eight feet deep, and about twelve or fifteen in breadth and length. Trunks of trees are laid across the margins of the pit, and more especially over that nearest the lane where the animals are expected to leap in, and over that farthest from the lane where it is supposed they wiU attempt to escape after they are in. The trees form an overlapping border, and render escape almost impossible. The whole is carefully decked with short green rushes, making the pit Kke a concealed pitfaU. As the hedges are frequently about a mile long, and about as much apart at thefr extremities, a tribe making a circle three or four miles round the country adjacent to the opening, and gradually closing up, are almost sure to enclose a large body of game. Driving it up with shouts to the narrow part of the hopo, men secreted there throw their javelins into the affrighted herds, and on the animals rush to the opening presented at the converging hedges, and into the pit till that is full of a living mass. Some escape by running over the others, as a 8mithfield market dog does over the sheep's backs. It is a frightful scene. The men, wild with excitement, spear the lovely animals with mad dehght : others of the poor creatures, borne down by the weight of their dead and dying companions, every now and then make the whole mass heave in their smothering agonies. The Bakwains often killed between sixty and seventy head of large game at the different hopes in a single week ; and as every one, both rich and poor, partook of the prey, the meat counteracted the bad effects of an exclusively vegetable diet. AATien the poor, who had no salt, were forced to live entirely on roots, they were often troubled with indigestion. Such cases we Chap. I. SALT A CURE FOR INDIGESTION. 27 had frequent opportunities of seeing at other times, for, the dis- trict being destitute of salt, the rich alone could afford to buy it. The native doctors, aware of the cause of the malady, usually prescribed some of that ingredient ^vith their medicines. The doctors themselves had none, so the poor resorted to us for aid. We took the hint, and henceforth cured the disease by giving a teaspoonful of salt, minus the other remedies. Either milk or meat had the same effect, though not so rapidly as salt. Long afterwards, when I was myself deprived of salt for four months, at two distinct periods, I felt no desh-e for that condiment, but I was plagued by very great longing for the above articles of food. This continued as long as I was confined to an exclusively ve- getable diet, and when I procured a meal of flesh, though boded in perfectly fresh rain-water, it tasted as pleasantly saltish as if shghtly impregnated with the condiment. Milk or meat, obtained in however small quantities, removed entirely the excessive longing and dreaming about roasted ribs of fat oxen, and bowls of cool thick milk gurgling forth from the big-bellied calabashes; and I could then understand the thankftdness to Mrs. L. often expressed by poor Bakwain women, in the in- teresting condition, for a very little of either. In addition to other adverse influences, the general uncer- tainty, though not absolute want, of food, and the necessity of frequent absence for the purpose of either hunting game or collecting roots and fruits, proved a serious bairier to the progress of the people in knowledge. Our own education in England is carried on at the comfortable breakfast and dimier table and by the cosy fire, as well as in the church and school. Few English people with stomachs painfully empty would be decorous at chm*ch any more than they are when these organs are overcharged. Eagged schools would have been a failure had not the teachers wisely provided food for the body as well as food for the mind; and not only must we show a friendly interest in the bodily comfort of the objects of our sympathy as a Christian duty, but we can no more hope for healthy feelings among the poor, either at home or abroad, without feeding them into them, than we can hope to see an ordinary working-bee reared into a queen-mother by the ordinary food of the hive. 28 MEAXS TO PROMOTE CIVILIZATION. Chap. I. Sending the Gospel to the heathen must, if this view be correct, include much more than is implied in the usual picture of a missionary, namely, a man going about Avith a Bible under his arm. The promotion of commerce ought to be specially attended to, as this, more speedily than anything else, demolishes that sense of isolation which heathenism engenders, and makes the tribes feel themselves mutually dependent on, and mutually bene- ficial to, each other. With a view to this the missionaries at KuiTiman got permission from the Government for a trader to reside at the station, and a considerable trade has been the result ; the trader himself has become rich enough to retire vdth a com- petence. Those laws which still prevent free commercial inter- course among the civilized nations seem to be nothing else but the remains of our own heathenism. My observations on tliis subject make me extremely desirous to promote the preparation of the raw materials of EurojDcan manufactures in Africa, for by that means we may not only put a stojD to the slave-trade, but intro- duce the negro family into the body coi-porate of nations, no one member of which can suffer mthout the others suffeiing with it. Success in this, in both Eastern and Western Africa, would lead, in the course of time, to a much larger diffusion of the blessings of civilization than efforts exclusively spiritual and educational confined to any one small tribe. These, however, it would of coiu'se be extremely desirable to carrj^ on at the same time at large central and healthy stations, for neither civilization nor Christianity can be promoted alone. In fact, they are in- separable. Chap. II. BOEES ADVEESE TO IMPEOYEMENT. 29 CHAPTER 11. The Boers — Their treatment of the natives — Seizure of native children for slaves — English traders — Alarm of the Boers — Native espionage — The tale of the cannon — The Boers threaten Sechele — In violation of treaty, they stop English traders and expel missionaries — They attack the Bakwains — Their mode of fighting — The natives killed and the school- children carried into slavery — Destruction of English property — African housebuilding and housekeeping — Mode of spending the day — Scarcity of food — Locusts — Edible frogs — Scavenger beetle — Continued hostility of the Boers — The journey north — Preparations — Fellow travellers — The Kalahari desert — Vegetation — Water-melons — The inhabitants — The Bushmen — Their nomade mode of life — Appearance — The Baka- lahari — Their love for agriculture and for domestic animals — Timid character — Mode of obtaining water — Female water-suckers -r~ The desert — AVater hidden. Another adverse influence with which the mission had to contend was the vicinity of the Boers of the Cashan Mountains, otherwise named " Magaliesberg." These are not to be confounded ^dth the Cape colonists, who sometimes pass by the name. The Avord Boer simply means " farmer," and is not synomTnous with our word boor. Indeed, to the Boers generally the latter term would be quite inappropriate, for they are a sober, industrious, and most hospitable body of peasantry. Those, however, who have fled from Enghsh law on various pretexts, and have been joined by English deserters and every other variety of bad character in their distant localities, are unfortunately of a very different stamp. The great objection many of the Boers had, and still have, to English law is that it makes no distinction between black men and white. They felt aggrieved by their supposed losses in the emancipation of their Hottentot slaves, and determined to erect themselves into a republic, in which they might pursue without molestation the " proper treatment of the blacks." It is almost needless to add that the " proper ti-eatment " has always contained in it the essential element of slavery, namely, compul- sory unpaid labour. One section of tliis body, under the late Mr. Hendi-ick Potgeiter, penetrated the interior as fai* as the Cashan Mountains, whence a 30 TREATMENT OF NATIVES BY BOERS. Chap. II. Zulu or Caffre cliief, named Mosilikatze, had been expelled by tlie well-known Caffre Dingaan ; and a glad welcome was given them by the Bechuana tribes, who had just escaped the hard sway of that cruel chieftain. They came with the prestige of white men and deliverers ; but the Bechuanas soon found, as they expressed it, " that Mosilikatze was cruel to his enemies, and kind to those he conquered ; but that the Boers destroyed their enemies, and made slaves of their friends." The tribes who still retaiQ the semblance of independence are forced to perform aU the labour of the fields, such as manuring the land, weeding, reaping, building, making dams and canals, and at the same time to support themselves. I have myself been an eye-witness of Boers coming to a village, and, according to their usual custom, demanding twenty or thirty women to weed theu- gardens, and have seen these women proceed to the scene of um-equited toil, carrying their own food on their heads, their children on their backs, and instruments of labour on their shoulders, l^or have the Boers any wish to conceal the meanness of thus employing unpaid labour ; on the contrary, every one of them, from Mr. Potgeiter and Mr. Gert Krieger, the commandants, downwards, lauded his own humanity and justice in making such an equitable regulation. " We make the people work for us, in consideration of allowing them to live in our country." I can appeal to the Commandant Krieger if the foregoing is not a fair and impartial statement of the views of himself and liis people. I am sensible of no mental bias toAvards or against these Boers ; and during the several journeys I made to the poor enslaved tribes, I never avoided the whites, but tried to cure and did administer remedies to their sick, without money and without price. It is due to them to state that I was invariably treated with respect ; but it is most unfortunate that they should have been left by their own Church for so many years to deteriorate and become as degraded as the blacks, whom the stupid prejudice against colour leads them to detest. This new species of slavery which they have adopted serves to supply the lack of field-labour only. The demand for domestic servants must be met by forays on tribes which have good supplies of cattle. The Portuguese can quote instances in wliich blacks become so degraded by the love of strong drink as Chap. II. TREATMENT OF NATIVES BY BOERS. 31 actually to sell themselves ; but never in any one case, within the memory of man, has a Bechuana chief sold any of his people, or a Bechuana man liis child. Hence the necessity for a foray to seize cliildren. And those individual Boers who would not engage in it for the sake of slaves can seldom resist the two-fold plea of a well-told story of an intended uprising of the devoted tribe, and the prospect of handsome pay in the division of the captured cattle besides. It is difficult for a person in a civilised country to conceive that any body of men possessing the common attributes of humanity (and thqse Boers are by no means destitute of the better feelings of our nature) should with one accord set out, after loading their own wives and children with caresses, and proceed to shoot down in cold blood men and women, of a different colour, it is true, but possessed of domestic feelings and affections equal to their own. I saw and conversed with clnldren in the houses of Boers who had by their own and their masters' account been captured, and in several instances I traced the parents of these unfortunates, though the plan approved by the long-headed among the burghers is to take children so young that they soon forget their parents and their native language also. It was long before I could give credit to the tales of bloodshed told by native witnesses, and had I received no other testimony but theirs I should probably have continued sceptical to this day as to the truth of the accounts ; but when I found the Boers themselves, some bewailing and denouncing, others glorying in the bloody scenes in which they had been themselves the actors, I was compelled to admit the validity of the testi- mony, and' try to account for the cruel anomaly. They are all traditionally religious, tracing theii* descent from some of the best men (Huguenots and Dutch) the world ever saw. Hence they claim to themselves the title of " Christians," and all the coloured race are " black property " or " creatures." They being the chosen people of God, the heathen are given to them for an inheritance, and they are the rod of divine vengeance on the heathen, as were the J ews of old. Living in the midst of a native population much larger than themselves, and at fountains removed many miles from each other, they feel somewhat in the same insecure position as do the Americans in the Southern States. 32 BOEES AFRAID OF THE CAFFEES. Chap. II. The first question put by them to strangers is respecting peacej and when they receive reports from disaffected or emdous natives against any tribe, the case assumes all the appearance and pro- portions of a regular insurrection. Severe measures then appear to the most mildly disposed among them as imperatively called for, and, however bloody the massacre that follows, no qualms of conscience ensue : it is a dh'e necessity for the sake of peace. Indeed the late Mr. Hendrick Potgeiter most devoutly believed himself to be the great peacemaker of the country. But how is it that the natives, beiag so vastly superior ia numbers to the Boers, do not rise and annihilate them? The people among whom they Kve are Bechuanas, not Caffres, though no one would ever learn that distinction from a Boer; and history does not contain one single iastance in which the Bechu- anas, even those of them who possess fire-arms, have attacked either the Boers or the EngKsh. If there is such an instance, I am certain it is not genei-ally Imown, either beyond or in the Cape Colony. They have defended themselves when attacked, as in the case of Sechele, but have never engaged in offensive war with Europeans. AYe have a very different tale to tell of the Caffres, and the difference has always been so evident to these border Boers, that, ever since " those magnificent savages "* obtained possession of fii-e-anns, not one Boer has ever attempted to settle in Caffreland, or even face them as an enemy in the field. The Boers have generally manifested a marked antipathy to anytliing but " long-shot " warfare, and, sidling away in their emigTations towards the more effeminate Bechuanas, have left their quarrels mth the Caffres to be settled by the English, and their wars to be paid for by English gold. The Bakwains at Kolobeng had the sj)ectacle of various tribes enslaved before their eyes — the Bakatla, the Batlokua, the Bahu- keng, the Bamosetla, and two other tribes of Bakwams were all groaning under the oppression of um^equited labour. Tliis would not have been felt as so great an evil, but that the young men of those tribes, anxious to obtain cattle, the only means of rising to respectability and importance among then- own j^eoj^le, were in the habit of sallying forth, Hive our Irish and Highland reapers, to procure work in the Cape Colony. After labouring * The ' United Service Journal ' so styles them. Chap. U. EFFECTS OF SLAVE-SYSTEM. 33 there tliree or foui- years, in building stone dykes and dams for the Dutch farmers, they were well content if at the end of that time they could return with as many cows. On presenting one to their chief they ranked as respectable men in the tribe ever afterwards. These volunteers were highly esteemed among the Dutch, under the name of Mantatees. They were paid at the rate of one shilling a day and a large loaf of bread between six of them. Numbers of them, who had formerly seen me about twelve hundred miles inland from the Cape, recognised me with the loud laughter of joy when I was passing them at their work in the Eoggefelt and Bokkefelt, within a few days of Cape Town. I conversed with them and with elders of the Dutch Church, for whom they were working, and found that the system was thoroughly satisfactory to both parties. I do not believe that there is one Boer, in the Cashan or Magaliesberg countr}^, who would deny that a law was made, in consequence of this labour passing to the colony, to deprive these laboui-ers of their hardly- earned cattle, for the very cogent reason, that, " if they want to work, let them work for us their masters-," though boasting that in their case it would not be paid for. I can never cease to be most unfeignedly thankful that I was not born in a land of slaves. Xo one can understand the effect of the unutterable meanness of the slave-system on the minds of those who, but for the strange obKquity which prevents them from feeling the degi'adation of not being gentlemen enough to pay for services rendered, would be equal in virtue to ourselves. Fraud becomes as natural to them as " paying one's way " is to the rest of mankind. \Mierever a missionary lives, traders are sure to come ; they are mutually dependent, and each aids in the work of the other ; but experience shows that the two emplo}Tnents cannot very well be combined in the same person. Such a combination would not be morally wrong, for nothing would be more fair, and apostoKcal too, than that the man who devotes his time to the spnitual wel- fare of a people should derive temporal advantage from upright commerce, which traders, who aim exclusively at their ov,il en- richment, modestly imagine ought to be left to them. But though it is right for missionaries to trade, the present system of missions renders it inexpedient to spend time in so doing. No missionary with whom I ever came in contact, traded ; and while D 34 JESUIT AND PROTESTANT MISSIONARIES. Chap. IT. the traders, whom we introduced and rendered secure in the country, waxed rich, the missionaries have invariably remained poor, and have died so. The Jesuits, in Africa at least, were wiser in their generation than we ; theirs were large influential communities, proceeding on the system of turning the abilities of every brother into that channel in which he was most likely to excel ; one, fond of natural history, was allowed to follow his bent ; another, fond of literatm^e, found leisure to pursue his studies ; and he who was great in barter was sent in search of ivory and gold-dust ; so that while in the course of performing the religious acts of his mission to distant tribes he found the means of aiding effectually the brethren whom he had left at the central settlement.* AVe Protestants, with the comfortable conviction of superiority, have sent out missionaries with a bare subsistence only, and are unsparing in our laudations of some for not being worldly-minded whom our niggardliness made to live as did the prodigal son. I do not speak for myself, nor need I to do so, but for that very reason I feel at liberty to interpose a word in behalf of others. I have before my mind at this moment facts and instances wliich warrant my putting the case in this way : — The command to " go into all the world and preach the gospel to every creature " must be obeyed by Christians either personally or by substitute. Now it is quite possible to find men whose love for the heathen and devotion to the work will make them ready to go forth on the terms " bare subsistence," but what can be thought of the justice, to say nothing of the generosity, of Christians and churches who not only work their substitutes at the lowest terms, but regard what they give as charity! The matter is the more grave in respect to the Protestant missionary, who may have a wife and family. The fact is, there are many cases in which it is right, virtuous, and praiseworthy for a man to sacrifice every- thing for a great object, but in which it would be very wrong for * The Dutch clergy, too, are not wanting in worldly wisdom. A fountain is bought, and the lands which it can irrigate parcelled out and let to villagers. As they increase in numbers the rents rise and the church becomes rich. With 2001. per annum in addition from government, the salary amounts to 4:001. or 500Z. a-year. The clergymen then preach abstinence from politics as a Chris- tian duty. It is quite clear that, with 400Z. a-year, but little else except pure spirituality is required. Chap. II. KAKE'S KEBELLION. 35 others, interested in the object as much as he, to suffer or accept the sacrifice, if they can prevent it. English traders sold those articles which the Boers most dread, namely, arms and ammunition ; and when the number of guns amounted to five, so much alarm was excited among our neigh- bours that an expedition of several hundred Boers was seriously planned to deprive the Bakwains of their guns. Knowing that the latter would rather have fled to the Kalahari Desert than deliver up their weapons and become slaves, I proceeded to the commandant, Mr. Gert Krieger, and, representing the evils of any such expedition, prevailed upon him to defer it ; but that point being granted, the Boer wished to gain another, which was, that I should act as a spy over the Bakwains. I explained the impossibility of my compljriiig with his wish, even though my principles as an Engiislunan had not stood in the way, by referring to an instance in wliich Sechele had gone with his whole force to punish an under-chief without my knowledge. This man, whose name was Kake, rebelled, and was led on in his rebellion by his father-in-law, who had been regicide in the case of Sechele's father. Several of those who remained faithful to that chief were maltreated by Kake while j)assing to the Desert in search of skins. We had just come to live with the Bakwains when tliis happened, and Sechele consulted me. I advised mild measures, but the messengers he sent to Kake were taunted with the words, " He only pretends to wish to follow the advice of the teacher : Sechele is a coward ; let him come and fight if he dare." The next tune the offence was repeated, Sechele told me he was going to hunt elephants ; and as I knew the system of espionage which prevails among all the tribes, I never made any inquiries that would convey the opinion that I distrusted them. I gave credit to his statement. He asked the loan of a black-metal pot to cook with, as theirs of pottery are brittle. I gave it and a handful of salt, and desired liim to send back two tit-bits, the proboscis and fore-foot of the elephant. He set off, and I heard nottling more until we saw the BakAvains carrying home then- wounded, and heard some of the women uttering the loud wail of sorrow for the dead, and others pealing forth the clear scream of victory. It was then clear that Sechele had attacked and driven away the rebel. D 2 36 ESPIONAGE — TALE OF THE CANNOX. Chap. II. Mentioning tliis to tlie commandant in proof of the impossi- bility of granting his request, I had soon an example how quickly a story can grow among idle people. The five guns were, within one month, multiplied into a tale of five hundred, and the cooking-pot, now in a museum at Cape Town, was magnified into a cannon ; " I had myself confessed to the loan." "\^^ere the five hundred guns came from, it was easy to divine; for, kno^Aing that I used a sextant, my connection with GoTernment was a thing of course ; and, as I must know all Her Majesty's counsels, I was questioned on the subject of the indistinct rumours which had reached them of Lord Eosse's telescope. "^A^at right has your government to set up that large glass at the Cape to look after us behind the Cashan Mountains ? " Many of the Boers visited us afterwards at Kolobeng, some for medical advice, and others to trade in those very articles which their own laws and policy forbid. \^nien I happened to stumble upon any of them in the town, vdih his muskets and powder dis- played, he would begin an apology, on the ground that he was a poor man, &c., which I always cut short by frankly sa}Tng that I had nothing to do with either the Boers or then- laws. ]\Iany attempts were made during these visits to eHcit the truth about the guns and cannon ; and, ignorant of the system of espionage which prevails, eager inquhies Avere made by them among those who could jabber a little Dutch. It is noticeable that the system of espionage is as well developed among the savage tribes as in Austria or Eussia. It is a proof of barbarism. Eveiy man in a tribe feels himself bound to tell the cliief everj^tliing that comes to his knowledge, and, when questioned by a stranger, either gives answers which exhibit the utmost stupidity, or such as he knows wiR be agreeable to Ins chief. I beheve that in tliis way have arisen tales of their inability to count more than ten, as was asserted of the Bechuanas about the very time when Sechele's father counted out one thousand head of cattle as a beginning of the stock of his young son. In the present case Sechele, knowing every question put to liis people, asked me how they ought to answer. My reply was, "Tell the truth." Every one then declared that no cannon existed there ; and our friends, judging the answer by what they themselves would in the circumstances have said, were confirmed CUAP. II. HOSTILITY OF THE BOERS. 37 in the opinion that the Bakwains actually possessed artillery. Tliis was in some degree beneficial to us, inasmuch as fear pre- vented any foray in our direction for eight years. During that time no wonter passed mthout one or two tribes in the East country being plundered of both cattle and children by the Boers. The plan pursued is the follo^dng : one or two friendl}^ tribes are forced to accompany a party of mounted Boers, and these exj)e- ditions can be got up only in the T\dnter, when horses may be used without danger of being lost by disease. When they reach the tribe to be attacked, the friendly natives are ranged in front, to form, as they say, " a shield ; " the Boers then coolly fire over their heads till the devoted people flee and leave cattle, vaYes, and children to the captors. This was done in nine cases during my residence in the interior, and on no occasion was a di-op of Boer's blood shed. News of these deeds spread quickly among the Bakwains, and letters were repeatedly sent by the Boers to Sechele ordering liim to come and surrender himself as their vassal, and stop Enghsh traders from j)roceeding into the country with firearms for sale. But the discovery of Lake Ngami, here- after to be described, made the traders come m fivefold greater numbers, and Sechele replied, " I was made an independent cliief and placed here by God, and not by you. I was never conquered by Mosilikatze, as those tribes whom you rule over; and the Enghsh are my friends. I get ever}i:hing I wish from them. I cannot hinder them from going where they like." Those who are old enough to remember the tlneatened invasion of our own island may understand the effect which the constant danger of a Boorish invasion had on the minds of the Bakwains ; but no others can conceive how worrying were the messages and tlu'eats fr'om the endless self-constituted authorities of the Magaliesberg Boers ; and when to all this harassing annoyance was added the scarcity pro- duced by the di'ought, we could not wonder at, though we felt sorry for, their indisposition to receive instruction. The myth of the black pot assumed serious proportions. I attempted to benefit the tribes among the Boers of Magahesberg by placing native teachers at different points. " You must teach the blacks," said Mr. Hendi'ick Potgeiter, the commandant in chief, "that they are not equal to us." Other Boers told me, " I might as well teach the baboons on the rocks as the Africans," 38 BOEES COMPAKED TO BUSHMEJ^-. Chap. II. but declined tlie test wMcli I proposed, namely, to examine whether they or my native attendants could read best. Two of their clergy- men came to baptize the children of the Boers; so, supposing these good men would assist me in overcoming the repugnance of their flock to the education of the blacks, I called on them ; but my visit ended in a ruse practised by the Boorish commandant, whereby I was led, by professions of the greatest friendsliip, to retne to Kolobeng, while a letter passed me by another way to the other missionaries in the south, demanding my instant recall "for lending a cannon to their enemies." The colonial govern- ment was also gravely informed that the story was true; and I came to be looked upon as a most suspicious character in consequence. These notices of the Boers are not intended to produce a sneer at their ignorance, but to excite the compassion of their friends. They are perpetually talking about their laws; but practically theirs is only the law of the strongest. The Bechuanas could never understand the changes which took place in their com- mandants. " Why, one can never know who is the cliief among these Boers. Like the Bushmen, they have no king — they must be the Buslmien of the English." The idea that any tribe of men could be so senseless as not to have an hereditary cliief was so absurd to these people, that, in order not to appear equally stupid, I was obliged to tell them that we English were so anxious to preserve the royal blood, that we had made a young lady our chief. This seemed to them a most convincing proof of our sound sense. We shall see farther on the confidence my account of our Queen inspired. The Boers, encouraged by the accession of Mr. Pretorius, deter- mined at last to put a stop to English traders going past Kolobeng, by dispersing the tribe of Bakwains, and expelling all the mis- sionaries. Sir George Cathcart proclaimed the independence of the Boers, the best tiling that could have been done had they been between us and the Caffres. A treaty was entered into with these Boers ; an article for the free passage of Englishmen to the country beyond, and also another, that no slavery should be allowed in the independent territory, were duly inserted, as expressive of the views of Her Majesty's government at home. " But what about the missionaries ?" inquhed the Boers. " You may do as you please with them,'' is said to have been the answer Chap. II. THEY MAKE WAR OX THE BAKWAIXS, 39 of the "Commissioner." This remark, if uttered at all, was probably made in joke : designing men, however, circulated it, and caused the general belief in its accuracy which now preyails all over the countr}^, and doubtless led to the destruction of three mission stations immediately after. The Boers, four hundi-ed in number, were sent by the late IMr. Pretorius to attack the Bak- wains in 1852. Boasting that the English had given up all the blacks into their power, and had agreed to aid them in their sub- jugation by preventuig all supplies of ammunition from coming into the Bechuana country, they assaulted the Bakwains, and, besides kilh'ng a cpnsiderable number of adults, carried off two hundred of our school children into slavery. The natives under Sechele defended themselves till the approach of night enabled them to flee to the mountains ; and having in that defence killed a number of the enemy, the very first ever slain in this country by Bechuanas, I received the credit of having taught the tribe to kill Boers ! My house, which had stood perfectly secure for years under the protection of the natives, was plundered in re- venge. English gentlemen, who had come in the footsteps of Mr. Gumming to hunt in the countr}^ beyond, and had deposited large quantities of stores in the same keeping, and upwards of eighty head of cattle as relays for the return journeys, were robbed of all ; and when they came back to Kolobeng found the skeletons of the guardians strewed all over the place. The books of a good Kbrary — my solace in our solitude — were not taken away, but handfuls of the leaves were torn out and scattered over the place. My stock of medicines was smashed; and all our furniture and clothing carried off and sold at pubKc auction to pay the expenses of the foray. I do not mention these things by way of making a pitiful wail over my losses, nor in order to excite commiseration ; for though I do feel son-y for the loss of lexicons, dictionaries, &c., which had been the companions of my boyhood, yet, after aU, the plundering only set me entnely free for my expedition to the north, and I liave never since had a moment's concern for an}i:liuig I left behind. The Boers resolved to shut up the interior, and I deter- mined to open the country ; and we shall see who have been most successftd in resolution — they or I. A short sketch of African housekeeping may not prove unin- 40 HOUSEBUILDINa AND HOUSEKEEPING. Chap. n. teresting to the reader. The entire absence of shops led us to make everything we needed from the raw materials. You want bricks to build a house, and must forthwith proceed to the field, cut down a tree, and saw it into planks to make the brick-moulds ; the materials for doors and windows, too, are standing in the forest ; and, if you want to be respected by the natives, a house of decent dimensions, costing an immense amount of manual labour, must be built. The people cannot assist you much ; for, though most willing to labour for wages, the Bakwains have a curious inability to make or put things square : like all Bechuanas, their dwellings are made round. In the case of three large houses, erected by myself at different times, every brick and stick had to be put square by my own right hand. Having got the meal ground, the wife proceeds to make it into bread ; an extempore oven is often constructed by scooping out a large hole in an antliill, and using a slab of stone for a door. Another plan, wliich might be adopted by the Australians to produce something better than their " dampers," is to make a good fire on a level piece of ground, and, when the ground is thoroughly heated, place the dough in a small short-handled frying-pan, or simply on the hot ashes ; invert any sort of metal pot over it, draw the ashes around, and then make a small fire on the top. Dough mixed with a little leaven from a former baking, and allowed to stand an hour or two in the sun, will by this process become excellent bread. We made our own butter, a jar serving as a chum ; and our own candles by means of moulds ; and soap was procured from the ashes of the plant salsola, or fr-om wood-ashes, wliich in Afr'ica contain so little alkahne matter that the boiling of succes- sive leys has to be continued for a month or six weeks before the fat is saponified. There is not much hardship in being almost entirely dependent on ourselves; there is something of the feeling which must have animated Alexander Selkirk on seeing conveniences springing up before him from his o^m ingenuity ; and married life is all the sweeter when so many comforts emanate directly fr^om the thrifty striving houseTvdfe's hands. To some it may appear quite a romantic mode of life ; it is one of active benevolence, such as the good may enjoy at home. Take a single day as a sample of the whole. We rose early, Chap. II. MODE OF SPEXDIXG THE DAY. 41 because, liowever liot tlie day may have been, tlie evening, niglit, and morning at Kolobeng were deKciously refreshing ; cool is not the word, where you have neither an increase of cold nor heat to desire, and where you can sit out till midnight with no fear of coughs or rheumatism. After family worship and breakfast between six and seven, we went to keep school for all who would attend; men, women, and children being all invited. School over at eleven o'clock, while the missionary's wife was occupied in domestic matters, the missionary himself had some manual labour, as a smith, carpenter, or gardener, according to whatever was needed for ourselves or for the people ; if for the latter, they worked for us in the garden, or at some other employment; skilled labour was thus exchanged for the unskilled. After dinner and an hour's rest the wife attended her infant-school, iN-hich the young, who were left by their parents entirely to their own caprice, liked amazingly, and generally mustered a hundi-ed strong ; or she varied that with a sewing school, having classes of gu'ls to learn the art ; this, too, was equally well relished. During the day every operation must be superintended, and both husband and wife must labour till the sun declines. After sunset the husband went into the town to converse with any one willing to do so ; sometimes on general subjects, at other times on rehgion. On three nights of the week, as soon as the milking of the cows was over and it had become dark, we had a public religious ^rvice, and one of instruction on secular subjects, aided by pictures and specimens. These services were diversified by attending upon the sick and prescribing for them, giving food and otherwise assisting the poor and ^^Tetched. We tried to gain their affections by attending to the wants of the body. The smallest acts of friendship, an obliging word and civd look, are, as St. Xavier thought, no despicable part of the missionary armour. Nor ought the good opinion of the most abject to be uncared for, when politeness may seciu^e it. Their good word in the aggre- gate forms a reputation which may be well employed in pro- curing favour for the Gospel. Show kind attention to the reckless opponents of Christianity on the bed of sickness and pain, and they never can become your personal enemies. Here, if any- where, love begets love. Wlien at Kolobeng, during the di'oughts we were entfrely 42 LOCUSTS, FROGS, ETC., USED AS FOOD. Chap. II. dependent on Knmman for supplies of com. Once we were reduced to living on bran, to convert wliich into fine meal we had to grind it tln^ee times over. We were much in want of animal food, which seems to be a greater necessary of life there than vegetarians would imagine. Being alone, we could not divide the butcher-meat of a slaughtered animal vdth. sl prospect of getting a return with regularity. Sechele had by right of chieftainship the breast of every animal slaughtered either at home or abroad, and he most obligingly sent us a liberal share during the whole period of our sojourn. But these supplies were necessarily so irregular, that we were sometimes fain to accept a dish of locusts. These are quite a blessing in the country ; so much so, that the rain-doctors sometimes promised to bring them by their incanta- tions. The locusts are strongly vegetable in taste, the flavour varying vdih the plants on which they feed. There is a physiolo- gical reason Avhy locusts and honey should be eaten together. Some are roasted and pounded into meal, which eaten with a little salt is palatable. It will keep thus for months. Boiled they are disagreeable ; but when they are roasted, I should much prefer locusts to sln'imj)s, though I would avoid both if possible. In travelling we sometimes suffered considerably from scarcity of meat, though not from absolute want of food. This was felt more especially by my cliildren ; and the natives, to show their sympathy, often gave them a large kind of caterpillar, wliich they seemed to rehsh ; these insects could not be unwholesome, for the natives devoured them in large quantities themselves. Another article of which our cliildren partook mth eagerness was a very large frog, called " Matlametlo." * These enormous fr'ogs, which, when cooked, look like chickens, are supposed by the natives to fall doTO from thunder-clouds, because after a heavy thunder-shower the pools, which are filled and retain water a few days, become instantly alive "wdth this loud-croaking pugnacious game. Tliis phenomenon takes place in the driest parts of the desert, and in places where to an ordi- nary observer there is not a sign of life. Having been once benighted in a district of the Kalahari where there was no * Tlie Pj^Jiicephaliis adspersiis of Dr. Smith. Length of liead and body, inches ; forelegs, 3 inches ; hindlegs, 6 inches. Width of head posteriorly, 3 inches ; of body, 4^ inches. Chap. II. THE ELAND — THE SCAVENGER BEETLE. 43 . prospect of getting water for our cattle for a day or two, I was surprised to hear in tlie fine still evening the croaking of frogs. Walking out until I was certain that the musicians were between me and our fire, I found that they could be merry on nothing- else but a prospect of rain. From the Bushmen I afterwards learned that the matlametlo makes a hole at the root of certain bushes, and there ensconces liimself during the months of drought. As he seldom emerges, a large variety of spider takes advantage of the hole, and makes its web across the orifice. He is thus furnished with a window and screen gratis ; and no one but a Buslunan would think of searching beneath a sjDider's web for a frog. They completely eluded my search on the occasion re- ferred to ; and as they rush forth into the hollows filled by the thunder-shower when the rain is actually falling, and the Bechuanas are cowering under their skin garments, the sudden chorus struck up simultaneously from all sides seems to indicate a descent fr-om the clouds. The presence of these matlametlo in the desert in a tune of drought was rather a disappointment, for I had been accustomed to suppose that the note was always emitted by theni when they were chin-deep in water. Their music was always regarded in other spots as the most pleasant sound that met the ear after crossing portions of the thirsty desert ; and I could fully apj^re- ciate the sympathy for these animals sIioa^ti by ^sop, himself an African, in his fable of the ' Boys and the Frogs.' It is remarkable that attempts have not been made to any extent to domesticate some of the noble and useful creatures of Africa in England. The eland, which is the most magnificent of all antelopes, would grace the parks of our nobility more than deer. This animal, from the excellence of its flesh, would be appropriate to our own country ; and as there is also a splendid esculent frog nearly as large as a chicken, it would no doubt tend to perjDetuate the present alliance, if we made a gift of that to France. The scavenger beetle is one of the most useful of all insects, as it effectually answers the object indicated by the name. Where they abound, as at Kuruman, the villages are sweet and clean, for no sooner are animal excretions dropped than, attracted by the scent, the scavengers are heard coming booming up the wind. 44 HOSTILITY OF THE BOEES. Chap. II. They roll away tlie droppings of cattle at once, in round pieces often as large as billiard-balls ; and when they reach a place proper by its softness for the deposit of their eggs, and the safety of their young, they dig the soil out from beneath the ball, till they have quite let it down and covered it : they then lay their eggs within the mass. While the larvae are growing, they devour the inside of the ball before coming above ground to begin the world for themselves. The beetles with thek gigantic balls look like Atlas with the world on his back ; only they go back- wards, and, with their heads down, push with the liind legs, as if a boy should roll a snow-ball with liis legs, wliile standmg on his head. As we recommend the eland to Jolm Bull, and the gigantic frog to France, we can confidently recommend this beetle to the dirty Italian towns, and our own Sanitary Commissioners. In trying to benefit the tribes living under the Boers of the Cashan mountains, I twice performed a journey of about tln-ee hundred miles to the eastward of Kolobeng. Sechele had become so obnoxious to the Boers, that, though anxious to accompany me in my journey, he dared not trust hunself among them. Tliis did not arise from the crime of cattle-stealing ; for that crime, so common among the Caffres, was never charged againt his tribe, nor, indeed, against any Bechuana tribe. It is, m fact, unknown in the country, except during actual warfare. His independence and love of the English were his only faults. In my last journey there, of about two hundred miles, on parting at the river Marikwe he gave me two servants, "to be," as he said, "liis arms to serve me," and expressed regret that he could not come Inmself. " Suppose we went north," I said, " would you come ?" He then told me the story of Sebituane having saved his life, and expatiated on the far-famed generosity of that really great man. This was the first time I had thought of crossing the Desert to Lake Ngami. The conduct of the Boers, who, as will be remembered, had sent a letter designed to procure my removal out of the country, and their well-kno^^Ti settled 23olicy which I have abeady de- scribed, became more fully developed on this than on any former occasion. When I spoke to Mr. Hendrick Potgeiter of the danger of hindering the Gospel of Cluist among these poor Chap. II. SECHELE'S POSITION AS CHIEF. 45 savages, lie became greatly excited, and called one of Ms followers to answer me. He thi-eatened to attack any tribe tliat might receive a native teacher, yet he promised to use his influence to prevent those under him from throwing obstacles in our way. I could perceive plainly that notliing more could be done in that direction, so I commenced collecting all the information I could about the desert, vdth. the intention of crossing it if possible. Sekomi, the chief of the Bamangwato, was acquainted ^vith a route which he kept careftdly to himself, because the Lake country abounded in ivor}^, and he drew large quantities thence periodically at but small cost to himself. Sechele, who valued higlily everything European, and was always fiilly alive to his ovm interest, was naturally anxious to get a share of that inviting fieldl He was most anxious to visit Sebituane too, partly, perhaps, from a wish to show off his new acquirements, but chiefly, I believe, from having very exalted ideas of the benefits he would derive fr'om the liberality of that renowned chieftain. In age and family Sechele is the elder and superior of Sekomi ; for when the original tribe broke up into Bamangwato, Bangwaketse, and Bakwaias, the Bakwaios retained the hereditary chieftainship ; so their chief, Sechele, possesses certain advantages over Sekomi, the chief of the Bamangwato. If the two were travelling or hunting together, Sechele would take, by right, the heads of the game shot by Sekomi. There are several vestiges besides of very ancient partitions and lordsliips of tribes. The elder brother of Sechele's father, becoming blind, gave over the cliieftainship to Sechele's father. The descendants of this man pay no tribute to Sechele, though he is the actual ruler, and superior to the head of that family ; and Sechele, while in every other respect supreme, calls him Kosi or Chief. The other tribes will not begin to eat the early pumpkins of a new crop until they hear that the Bahurutse have " bitten it," and there is a public ceremony on the occasion — the son of the chief being the first to taste of the new harvest. Sechele, by my advice, sent men to Sekomi, asking leave for me to pass along his path, accompanpng the request with the present of an ox. Sekomi's mother, who possesses great influence over him, refused permission, because she had not been propi- tiated. This produced a fresh message ; and the most honourable 46 PREPARING TO CROSS THE DESERT. Chap. II. man in tlie Bakwain tribe, next to Secliele, was sent with an ox for both Sekomi and liis mother. Tliis, too, was met by refusal. It was said, " The Matebele, the mortal enemies of the Bechu- anaSy are in the dhection of the lake, and, should they kill the white man, we shall incur great blame from all his nation." The exact position of the Lake Ngami had, for half a century at least, been correctly pointed out by the natives, who had visited it when rains were more copious in the Desert than in more recent times, and many attempts had been made to reach it by passing through the Desert in the dhection indicated ; but it was found impossible, even for Griquas, who, having some Bushman blood in them, may be supposed more capable of enduring thirst than Europeans. It was clear, then, that our only chance of success was by going round, instead of through, the Desert. The best time for the attempt would have been about the end of the rainy season, in March or April, for then we should have been lilvely to meet mth pools of rain-water, which always diy up during the rainless winter. I communicated my mtention to an African traveller. Colonel Steele, then aide- de-camp to the Marquis of Tweedale, at Madi-as, and he made it known to two other gentlemen, whose friendship we had gained during their African travel, namely. Major Vardon and Mr. Oswell. All of these gentlemen were so enamoured vdth. African hunting and African discovery, that the two former must have envied the latter his good fortune in being able to leave India to undertake afresh the pleasures and pains of desert life. I believe Mr. Oswell came from his high position, at a very considerable pecuniary sacrifice, and with no other end in view but to extend the boundaries of geograpliical knowledge. Before I knew of his coming I had arranged that the payment for the guides furnished by Sechele should be the loan of my waggon, to bring back what- ever ivory he might obtain from the chief at the lake. When at last Mr. Oswell came, bringing Mr. Murray with him, he undertook to defray the entire expenses of the guides, and fully executed his generous intention. Sechele himself would have come vdth. us, but, fearing that the much-talked-of assault of the Boers might take place dur- ing our absence, and blame be attached to me for taking him away, I dissuaded him against it by saying that he knew f CiiAP. IT. THE KALAHARI DESERT. 47 Mr. Oswell ^' would be as determined as himseK to get tlu'ough the Desert." Before narrating the incidents of this journey, I may give some account of the great Kalahari Desert, in order that the reader may understand in some degree the nature of the diffi- culties we had to encounter. The space from the Orange Eiver in the south, lat. 29°, to Lake Xgami in the north, and from about 24^ east long, to near the west coast, has been called a desert simply because it con- tains no running water, and very little water in wells. It is by no means destitute- of yegetation and inhabitants, for it is covered -with grass and a great variety of creeping plants ; besides which there are large patches of bushes and even trees. It is remark- ably flat, but intersected in different parts by the beds of ancient rivers ; and prodigious herds of certain antelopes, wliich require little or no water, roam over the trackless plains. The inlia- bitants, Buslunen and Bakalahari, prey on the game and on the countless rodentia and small species of the feline race which sub- sist on these. In general the soil is light-colom-ed soft sand, nearly pure silica. The beds of the ancient rivers contain much alluvial soil ; and as that is baked hard by the buiTiing sun, rain- water stands in pools in some of them for several months in the year. The quantity of grass which grows on this remarkable region is astonishing, even to those who are familiar India. It usually rises in tufts vdih. bare spaces between, or the intervals are occupied by creeping plants, which, having their roots buried far beneath the soil, feel httle the effects of the scorching sun. The number of these which have tuberous roots is very great ; and their structure is intended to supply nutriment and moisture when during the long droughts they can be obtained nowhere else. Here we have an example of a plant, not generally tuber- bearing, becoming so under circumstances where that appendage is necessary to act as a reservoir for preserving its life ; and the same thing occurs in Angola to a species of grape-bearing vine, which is so famished for the same purpose. The plant to which I at present refer is one of the cucurbitaceae which bears a small scarlet-coloured eatable cucumber. Another plant, named Leroshua, is a blessing to the inhabitants of the Desert. We 48 THE WATEK-MELON. Chap. II. see a small plant witli linear leaves, and a stalk not tliicker than a crow's quill ; on digging down a foot or eighteen inches beneath, we come to a tuber, often as large as the head of a young child ; when the rind is removed, we find it to be a mass of cellular tissue, filled with fluid much like that in a young turnip. Owing to the depth beneath the soil at which it is found, it is generally dehciously cool and refreshing. Another kind, named Mokuri, is seen in other parts of the country, where long-continued heat parches the soil. This plant is a herbaceous creeper, and deposits underground a number of tubers, some as large as a man's head, at spots in a circle a yard or more, horizontally, from the stem. The natives strike the ground on the circumference of the circle with stones, till, by hearing a difference of sound they know the water-bearing tuber to be beneath. They then dig down a foot or so, and find it. But the most surprising plant of the Desert is the " Kengwe or Keme " (Cucumis caffer), the water-melon. In years when more than the usual quantity of rain falls, vast tracts of the country are literally covered wdth these melons ; this was the case annually when the fall of rain w^as greater than it is now, and the Bakwains sent trading parties every year to the lake. It happens commonly once every ten or eleven years, and for the last three times its occmTcnce has coincided with an extraordinarily wet season. Then animals of every sort and name, including man, rejoice in the rich supply. The elephant, true lord of the forest, revels in this fruit, and so do the different species of rhinoceros, although natu- rally so diverse in their choice of pasture. The various kinds of antelopes feed on them with equal avidity, and hons, hyaenas, jackals, and mice, all seem to know and appreciate the common blessing. These melons are not, however, aU of them eatable ; some are sweet, and others so bitter that the whole are named by the Boers the " bitter water-melon." The natives select them by striking one melon after another with a hatchet, and applying the tongue to the gashes. They thus readily distinguish between the bitter and sweet. The bitter are deleterious, but the sweet are quite wholesome. This pecuharity of one species of plants bearing both sweet and bitter fruits occm^s also in a red eatable cucumber often met with in the country. It is about four inches long, and about an inch and a half in diameter. It is of a bright scarlet Chap. 11. BUSHMEN— BAKALAHARI. 49 colour when ripe. Many are bitter, others quite sweet. Even melons in a garden may be made bitter by a few bitter kengwe in the \icinity. The bees convey the pollen from one to the other. The human uihabitants of this tract of country consist of Bush- men and Bakalahari. The former are probably the aborigines of the southern portion of the continent, the latter the remnants of the first emigration of Bechuanas. The Bushmen hve in the Desert from choice, the Bakalahari from compulsion, and both possess an intense love of hberty. The Bushmen are exceptions in language, race, habits, and appearance. They are the only real nomades in the country ; they never cultivate the soil nor rear any domestic animal, save wretched dogs. They are so intimately acquainted with the habits of the game, that they follow them in their migrations, and prey upon them from place to place, and thus prove as complete a check upon their inor- dinate increase as the other carnivora. The chief subsistence of the Bushmen is the flesh of game, but that is eked out by what the women collect of roots and beans, and fruits of the Desert. Those who inhabit the hot sandy plains of the Desert possess generally thin why forms capable of great exertion and of severe privations. Many are of low stature, though not dwarfish ; tlie specimens brought to Europe have been selected, Hke coster- mongers' dogs, on account of thefr extreme ugliness; conse- quently English ideas of the whole tribe are formed in the same way as • if the ughest specimens of the Enghsh were exliibited in Africa as characteristic of the entire British nation. That they are hke baboons is in some degree true, just as these and other simiae are in some points fi'ightfully human. The Bakalahari are traditionally reported to be the oldest of the Bechuana tribes, and they are said to have possessed enor- mous herds of the large horned cattle mentioned by Bruce, until they were despoiled of them and driven into the Desert by a fresh migration of their o^vn nation. Li^inor ever since on the same plains mth the Bushmen, subjected to the same influences of climate, endm-ing the same thirst, and subsisting on similar food for centuries, they seem to supply a standuig proof that locahty is not always sufiicient of itself to account for difference in races. The Bakalahari retain in undying \igour the Bechuana love for 50 THE BAKALAHARI. Chap. II. agriculture and domestic animals. They lioe their gardens annu- ally, though often all they can hope for is a supply of melons and pumpkins. And they carefully rear small herds of goats, though I have seen them Hft water for them out of small wells with a bit of ostrich egg-shell, or by spoonfuls. They generally attach themselves to influential men in the different Bechuana tribes living adjacent to then* desert home, in order to obtain suppHes of spears, knives, tobacco, and dogs, in exchange for the skins of the animals they may kill. These are small carnivora of the fehne species ; including two species of jackal, the dark and the golden ; the former, " motlose " [Megalotis capensis or Cape fennec), has the warmest fur the country yields; the latter, "pukui/e'' (Canis mesomelas and C. aureus), is very handsome when made into the skin mantle called kaross. Next in value follow the " tslpa " or small ocelot (Felis nigripes), the " tuane " or lynx, the wild cat, the spotted cat, and other smaU animals. Great numbers of puti (duiher) and puruhuru {steinhuch) skins are got, too, besides those of lions, leopards, panthers, and hyaenas. During the time I was in the Bechuana country between twenty and thii'ty thousand skins were made up into karosses ; part of them were worn by the inhabitants, and part sold to traders: many, I beheve, find their way to China. The Bak- wains bought tobacco from the eastern tribes, then purchased skins with it from the Bakalahari, tanned them, and sewed them into karosses, then went south to purchase heifer-calves with them, cows being the highest form of riches known, as I have often noticed from their asking " if Queen Victoria had many cows." The compact they enter mto is mutually beneficial, but injustice and wrong are often perpetrated by one tribe of Bechuanas going among the Bakalahari of another tribe, and compelling them to dehver up the skins which they may be keeping for their friends. They are a timid race, and in bodily development often resemble the aborigines of Austraha. They have thin legs and arms, and large protruding abdomens caused by the coarse indigestible food they eat. Their children's eyes lack lustre. I never saw them at play. A few Bechuanas may go into a village of Bakalahari, and domineer over the whole with impunity ; but when these same adventurers meet the Bushmen, they are fain to change their manners to fawning sycophancy ; they know that, if the Chap. II. FEMALE WATER-SUCKERS. 51 request for tobacco is refused, these free sons of tlie Desert may settle the point as to its possession by a poisoned arrow. The dread of visits from Bechuanas of strange tribes causes the Bakalahari to choose their residences far from water ; and they not unfrequently hide their suppHes by filluig the pits with sand and making a fire over the spot, ^^^len they msh to draw water for use, the women come with, twenty or tlui'ty of their water- vessels in a bag or net on thefr backs. These water-vessels consist of ostrich egg-sheUs, mth a hole in the end of each, such as would admit one's finger. The women tie a bunch of grass to one end of a reed about two feet long, and insert it in a hole dug as deep as the arm will reach ; then ram down the wet sand fii-mly round it. Applying the mouth to the free end of the reed, they form a vacuum in the grass beneath, in wliich the water collects, and ui a short time rises into the mouth. An egg-shell is placed on the ground alongside the reed, some inches below the mouth of the sucker. A straw guides the water into the hole of the vessel, as she draws mouthful after mouthful from below. The water is made to pass along the outside, not through the straw. If any one will attempt to squirt water into a bottle placed some distance below his mouth, he ^viU soon perceive the ^^'isdom of the Bush- woman's contrivance for giving the stream direction by means of a straw. The whole stock of water is thus passed through the woman's mouth as a pump, and when taken home is carefully buried. I have come into collages where, had we acted a domi- neering part, and rummaged every hut, we should have found nothing ; but by sitting down quietly and waiting with patience until the Aollagers were led to form a favourable opinion of us, a woman would bring out a shellfril of the precious fluid from I know not where. » The so-called Desert, it may be observed, is by no means a useless tract of country. Besides supporting multitudes of both small and large animals, it sends sometliing to the market of the world, and has proved a refuge to many a fugitive tribe — to the Bakalahari first, and to the other Bechuanas in tm-n — as their lands were overrun by the tribe of true Cafires, called Matebele. The Bakwains, the Bangwaketze, and the Bamangwato aU fled thither ; and the Matebele marauders, who came from the well- watered east, perished by hundreds in their attempts to foUow them. E 2 52 WATER HIDDEN. Chap. IT. One of the Bangwaketze cliiefs, more ^^ilJ than the rest, sent false guides to lead them on a track where, for hundi'eds of miles, not a di'op of water could be found, and they perished in consequence. Many Bakwains perished too. Their old men who could have told Tis ancient stories perished in these flights. An intelligent Mokwain related to me how the Buslmien effectually baulked a party of his tribe wdiich Hghted on their viQage in a state of burning thirst. Beheying, as he said, that nothing human could subsist without water, they demanded some, but were coolly told by these Bushmen that they had none, and never drank any. Expecting to find them out, they resolved to Avatch them night and day. They persevered for some days, tlnnkmg that at last the water must come forth ; but notwithstanding then- watchful- ness, kept ahve by most tormenting thu-st, the BakAvains were compelled to exclaim, " Yak ! yak ! these are not men ; let us go." Probably the Bushmen had been subsisting on a store liidden under ground, wliich had eluded the \ngilance of their visitors. Chap. III. DEPAETURE FEOM KOLOBENG. 53 CHAPTEK III. Departure from Kolobeng, 1st Jime, 1849 — Companions — Our route — Abundance of grass — Serotli, a fountain in the desert — Mode of digging wells — The eland — Animals of the desert — The hytena — The chief Sekomi — Dangers — The wandering guide — Cross purposes — Slow progress — Want of water — Capture of a Bushwoman — The salt-pan at Kchokotsa — The mirage — Reach the river Zouga — The Quakers of Africa — Discovery of Lake Xgami, 1st August, 1849 — Its extent — Small depth of water — Position as the reservoir of a great river system — The Bamangwato, and their chief — Desire to visit Sebituane, the chief of the Makololo — Refusal of Lechulatebe to furnish us with guides — Resolve to return to the Cape — The banks of the Zouga — Pitfalls — Trees of the district — Elephants — New si^ecies of antelope — Fish in the Zouga. Such was the Desert which we were iiow preparmg to cross, — a region formerly of terror to the Bechuanas from the numbers of serpents which infested it and fed on the different kinds of mice, and from the intense tlnrst \^hich these people often endured when their water-vessels were insuiScient for the distances to be travelled over before reaching the wells. Just before the arrival of my companions, a party of the people of the lake came to Kolobeng, stating that they were sent by Lechulatebe, the chief, to ask me to visit that country. They brought such flaming accounts of the quantities of ivory to be found there (cattle-pens made of elephants' tusks of enormous size, &c.), that the guides of the Bakwains were quite as eager to succeed in reacliing the lake as any one of us could desire. This was fortunate, as we knew the way the strangers had come was impassable for waggons. Messrs. Oswell and Murray came at the end of May, and we all made a fair stai-t for the unknot region on the 1st of June, 1849. Proceeding northwards, and passing thi'ough a range of tree-covered hills to Shokuane, formerly the residence of the Bakwains, we soon after entered on the high road to the Bamang- wato, which hes generally in the bed of an ancient river or wady that must formerly have flowed N. to S. The adjacent country 54 SEEOTLI. Chap. HI. is perfectly flat, but covered -svitli open forest and bush, with abundance of grass ; the ti'ees generally are a kind of acacia called " Monato," which appears a httle to the south of this region, and is common as far as Angola. A large catei-pillar, called " Xato," feeds by night on the leaves of these trees, and comes down by day to bury itself at the root in the sand, in order to escape the piercing rays of the sun. The people dig for it there, and are fond of it when roasted, on account of its pleasant vege- table taste. Wlien about to pass into the chr}-salis state it buries itself in the soil, and is sometimes sought for as food even then. If left imdistiu'bed, it comes forth as a beautiful butterfly : the transmutation was sometimes employed by me ^^ith good effect, when speaking vdih the natives, as an illustration of our own great change and resiuTCction. The soil is sandy, and there are here and there indications that at spots wliich now afford no water whatever there were formerly wells and cattle stations. Boatlanama, oiu' next station, is a lovely spot ia the other-wise dry region. The wells from which we had to lift out the water for oiu' cattle are deep, but they were well filled. A few tillages of Bakalahari were found near them, and great numbei*s of pallahs, springbucks, guinea-fowl, and small monkeys. Lopepe came next. This place afforded another proof of the desiccation of the country. The first time I passed it, Lopepe was a large pool with a stream flo^viag out of it to the south ; now it was with difficulty we could get our cattle watered, by digging down in the bottom of a well At Mashiie — where we found a never-failing supply of pure water in a sandstone rock}^ hollow — we left the road to the Bamangwatc lulls, and struck away to the north into the Desert. Having watered the cattle at a well called Lobotani, about X.W. of Bamangwato, we next proceeded to a real Kalahari fountain, called SerotK. The country- around is covered with bushes and trees of a kind of legumuiosa?, with lilac flowers. The soil is soft white sand, very trying to the strength of the oxen, as the wheels sink into it over the felloes and drao^ heavilv. At Serotli we found only a few hollows like those made by the buffalo and rliinoceros when they roll themselves in the mud. In a comer of one of these there appeared water, which would have been Chap. III. MODE OF DIGOma WELLS. 55 quickly lapped up by our dogs, had we not diiven tliein away. And yet tliis was all the apparent supply for some eighty oxen, twenty horses, and about a score of men. Our guide, Eamotobi, who had spent his youth in the Desert, declared that, though appearances were against us, there was plenty of water at hand. We had our misgivings, for the spades were soon produced ; but our guides, despising such new-fangled aid, began in good earnest to scrape out the sand with their hands. The only water we had any promise of for the next seventy miles — that is, for a journey of three days with the waggons — was to be got here. By the aid of both spades and fingers two of the holes were cleared out, so as to form pits six feet deep and about as many broad. Our guides were especially earnest in their injunctions to us not to break through the hard stratum of sand at the bottom, because they knew, if it were broken tlu'ough, "the water woidd go away." They are quite correct, for the water seems to He on this flooring of incipient sandstone. The 'value of the ad-sice was proved in the case of an Englishman whose wits were none of the brightest, who, disregarding it, dug through the sandy stratum in the wells at Mohotluani : — the water immediately flowed away downwards, and the well became useless. AMien we came to the stratum, we found that the water flowed in on all sides close to the hue where the soft sand came into contact vdth. it. Allomng it to collect, we had enough for the horses that evening ; but as there was not sufficient for the oxen, Ave sent them back to Lobotani, where, after thirsting four full days (ninety-six hours), they got a good supply. The horses were kept by us as neces- sary to procure game for the sustenance of our numerous party. Next morning we found the water had flowed in faster than at first, as it invariably does in these reservoirs, OAATUg to the pas- sages widening by the flow. Large quantities of the sand come into the well with the water, and in the course of a few days the supply, which may be equal to the wants of a few men only, becomes sufficient for oxen as well. In these suckmg-places the Bakalahari get their supphes ; and as they are generally in the hollows of ancient river-beds, they are probably the deposits from rains gravitating tliither ; in some cases they may be the actual fountains, which, though formerly suppljing the river's flow, now no longer rise to the surface. 56 ANIMALS OF THE DESEET. Chap. III. Here, tliougli the water was perfectly inaccessible to elands, large numbers of these fine animals fed around us ; and, when killed, they were not only in good condition, but their stomachs actually contained considerable quantities of water. I examined carefully the whole alimentary canal in order to see if there were any pecuharity which might account for the fact that this animal can subsist for months together mthout di'inking, but found notliing. Other animals, such as the duiker (^Cephalopus mergens) or puti (of the Bechuanas), the steinbuck {Tragulus rupestris) or puruhuru, the gemsbuck ( Ort/x capenm) or kukama, and the porcupine {Rystrix cristata), are all able to subsist mthout water for many months at a time by Hving on bulbs and tubers containing moisture. They have sharp-pointed hoofs well adapted for digging, and there is little difficulty in comprehending their mode of subsistence. Some animals, on the other hand, are never seen but in the vicinity of water. The presence of the rliinoceros, of the buffalo alid gnu {Catoblejxis gnu), of the gu-affe, tlie zebra, and pallah {Ant Hope melampus), is always a certain indication of water being mthin a distance of seven or eight miles ; but one may see hundreds of elands (^Boselaphus oreas), gemsbuck, the tolo or koodoo (Strepsiceros capensis), also spring- bucks {G-azella euchore) and ostriches, without being wan-anted thereby in inferring the presence of water within thu-ty or forty miles. Indeed, the sleek fat condition of the eland in such circumstances would not remove the apprehension of perishing by thhst from the mind of even a native. I beheve, however, that these animals can subsist only when there is some moisture in the vegetation on wliich they feed ; for in one year of unusual drought we saw herds of elands and flocks of ostriches crowding to the Zouga from the Desert, and very many of the latter were killed in pitfalls on the banks. As long as there is any sap in the pasturage they seldom need water. But should a traveller see the " spoor " of a rhinoceros or buffalo or zebra, he would at once follow it up, well assured that before he had gone many miles he would certainly reach water. In the evening of our second day at Serotli, a hyaena, appear- ing suddenly among the grass, succeeded in raising a panic among our cattle. This false mode of attack is the plan which tiiis cowardly animal always adopts. His courage resembles Chap. III. MESSAGE FROM SEKOMI. 57 closely that of a tm*key-cock. He will bite, if an animal is mnning away ; but if the animal stand still, so does he. Seven- teen of onr draught oxen ran away, and in their flight went right into the hands of Sekomi, whom, from his being unfriendly to our success, we had no particular wish to see. Cattle-stealing, such as in the circumstances might have occurred in Caffraria, is here unknown ; so Sekomi sent back our oxen, and a message strongly dissuading us against attempting the Desert. " A\Tiere are you going ? You vnB. be killed by the sun and thirst, and then all the wliite men will blame me for not saving you." This was backed by a private message from his mother. " Why do you pass me ? I always made the people collect to hear the word that you have got. Whsct guilt have I, that you pass without looking at me ? " AYe replied by assuring the messengers that the wliite men would attribute our deaths to our own stupidity and " hard-headedness " (tlogo, e thata), " as we did not intend to allow our companions and guides to retiu-n till they had put us into our graves." We sent a handsome present to Sekomi, and a promise that, if he allowed the Bakalahari to keep the wells open for us, we would repeat the gift on our return. After exhausting all his eloquence in fruitless attempts to per- suade us to return, the under-chief, who headed the party of Sekomi's messengers, inquired " Who is taking them ? " Looking round, he exclaimed, vdth. a face expressive of the most un- feigned disgust, " It is Kamotobi ! " Our guide belonged to Sekomi's tribe, but had fled to Sechele ; as fugitives in this country are always well received, and may even afterv^^ards visit the tribe from which they have escaped, Eamotobi was in no danger, though doing that which he knew to be directly opposed to the interests of his own chief and tribe. All around Serotli the country is perfectly flat, and composed of soft white sand. There is a peculiar glare of bright sunlight from a cloudless sky over the whole scene ; and one clump of trees and bushes, with open spaces between, looks so exactly like another, that if you leave the wells, and walk a quarter of a mile in any direction, it is difficult to return. Oswell and MmTay went out on one occasion to get an eland, and were accompanied by one of the Bakalahari. The perfect sameness of the country caused even tliis son of the Desert to lose his way; a most 58 CEOSS PUEPOSES. Chap, III. puzzling conversation fortli^itli ensued between them, and their guide. One of the most common phrases of the people is " Kia itumela," I thank you, or I am pleased ; and the gentlemen were both quite familiar with it, and with the word " metse," water. But there is a word very similar in sound, " Kia timela," I am wandering ; its perfect is " Kj timetse," I have wandered. The party had been roaming about, perfectly lost, till the sun went down ; and, through their mistaking the verb " wander," for " to be pleased," and "water," the colloquy went on at intervals during the whole bitterly cold night in somewhat the following style : — " Where are the waggons ? " Real answer. — " I don't know. I have wandered. I never wandered before. I am quite lost." Supposed ansiver. — " I don't know. I want water. I am glad, I am quite pleased. I am thankful to you." " Take us to the waggons, and you ^dll get plenty of water." Heal answer (looking vacantly around). — " How did I wander ? Perhaps the well is there, perhaps not. I don't know. I have wandered." Supposed answer. — " Something about thanks ; he says he is pleased, and mentions water again." The guide's vacant stare, while tr\dng to remember, is thought to indicate mental imbe- cility, and the repeated thanks were supposed to indicate a wish to deprecate their wrath. " Well, Livingstone has played us a pretty trick, gi^^ng us in charge of an idiot. Catch us trusting him again. WTiat can this fellow mean by liis thanks and talk about water ? 0, you born fool ! take us to the waggons, and you will get both meat and water. W ouldn't a thrashing bring him to his senses again ?" " No, no, for then he Avill run away, and we shall be worse off than we are now." The hunters regained the waggons next day by their own sagacity, which becomes wonderfully quickened by a sojourn in the Desert ; and we enjoyed a hearty laugh on the explanation of theu' midnight colloquies. Frequent mistakes of this kind occur. A man may tell his interpreter to say that he is a member of the family of the chief of the white men ; " Tes, you speak like a chief" is the reply ; meaning, as they explain it, that a chief may talk Chap. III. SLOW PEOGRESS. 59 nonsense without any one daring to contradict him. They probably have ascertained, from that same interpreter, that tliis relative of the white chief is very poor, having scarcely anything in his waggon. I sometimes felt annoyed at the low estimation in which some of my hunting friends were held ; for, believing that the chace is eminently conducive to the formation of a brave and noble cha- racter, and that the contest with wild beasts is well adapted for fostering that coolness in emergencies, and active presence of mind, wliich we all admire, I was natm-ally anxious that a higher estimate of my countrymen should be formed in the native mind. "Have these hunters, who come so far and work so hard, no meat at home ? " — " Wliy, these men are rich, and could slaughter oxen every day of then- lives." — " And yet they come here, and endure so much thirst for the sake of tliis dry meat, none of which is equal to beef?" — "Yes, it is for the sake of play be- sides " (the idea of sport not being in the language). This pro- duces a laugh, as much as to say, "Ah, you know better;" or, " Your friends are fools." Wlien they can get a man to kill large quantities of game for them, whatever he may think of himself or of his achievements, they pride themselves in having adroitly turned to good account the folly of an itinerant butcher. The water having at last flowed into the wells we had dug, in sufficient quantity to allow a good drinli to all our cattle, we departed fi'om SerotH in the afternoon ; but as the sun even in winter, which it now was, is always very powerful by day, the \\'aggons were dragged but slowly through the deep hea^^ sand, and we advanced only six miles before sunset. We could only travel in the mornings and evenings, as a single day in the hot sun and heavy sand would have knocked up the oxen. Next day we passed Pepacheu (wliite tufa), a hollow lined with tufa, in which water sometimes stands, but it was now dry ; and at night our trocheamer * showed that we had made but twenty-five miles from Serotli. Eamotobi was angry at the slowness of our progress, and told us that, as the next water was three days in front, if we travelled * This is an instrument which, when fastened on the waggon-wheel, re- cords the number of revolutions made. By multiplying this number by the circumference of the wheel the actual distance travelled over is at once ascertained. 60 WANT OF WATEE. Chap. III. SO slo^vly we should never get there at all. The utmost endea- vours of the servants, cracking theh whips, screaming and beating, got only nineteen miles out of the poor beasts. We had thus proceeded forty-four miles from SerotK ; and the oxen were more exhausted by the soft nature of the country, and the thirst, than if they had travelled double the distance over a hard road containing suppHes of water : we had, as far as we could judge, stiU thiii;y miles more of the same diy work before us. At tliis season the grass becomes so dry as to crumble to powder in the hands ; so the poor beasts stood wearily cheTsiiig, without taking a single fresh mouthful, and losing painfully at the smell of water in our vessels in the waggons. We were all determined to succeed ; so we endeavoured to save the horses by sending them forward with the guide, as a means of making a desperate effort in case the oxen should fail. Murray went forward with them, while OsweU and I remained to bring the waggons on their trail as far as the cattle could drag them, intending then to send the oxen forward too. The horses walked quickly away from us ; but on the morning of the tliird day, when we imagined the steeds must be near the water, we discovered them just alongside the waggons. The guide, having come across the fresh footprints of some Bushmen who had gone in an opj)osite direction to that which we wished to go, turned aside to follow them. An antelope had been ensnared in one of the Bushmen's pitfalls. Murray followed Eamotobi most trustingly along the Bushmen's spoor, though that led them away from the water we were in search of ; witnessed the operation of slaughtering, skinning, and cutting up the antelope ; and then, after a hard day's toil, found himself close upon the waggons ! The knowledge still retained by Eamotobi of the trackless waste of scrub, tln-ough which we were now passing, seemed admirable. For sixty or seventy miles beyond Seroth, one clump of bushes and trees seemed exactly lilie another ; but, as we walked together tliis morning, he remarked, " AVlien we come to that hollow we shall light upon the high^^ay of Sekomi ; and beyond that again lies the river Mokoko ;" wliich, though we passed along it, I could not perceive to be a river-bed at all. After breakfast some of the men, who had gone forward on a little path with some footprints of water-loving animals upon it. Chap. III. CAPTUEE OF A BUSHWOMAN. Gl returned with the joyful tidings of " metse,'' water, exhibiting the mud on theh knees in confirmation of the news being true. It does one's heart good to see the thhsty oxen rush into a pool of delicious rain-water, as this was. In they dash until the water is deep enough to be nearly level with their tlu'oat, and then tliey stand drawing slowly in the long refresliing moutlifuls, until their formerly collapsed sides distend as if they would bui^st. So much do they imbibe, that a sudden jerk, when they come out on the bank, makes some of the water run out again from then- mouths ; but as they have been days without food too, they very soon commence to graze,* and of grass there is always abundance every- where. Tliis pool Avas called Mathuluani ; and thankful we were to have obtained so welcome a supply of water. After giving the cattle a rest at this spot, we proceeded dowQ the dry bed of the river Mokoko. The name refers to the water- bearing stratum before alluded to ; and in this ancient bed it bears enough of water to admit of permanent wells in several parts of it. We had now the assurance from Kamotobi that Ave should suffer no more from tlurst. Twice Ave found ram-water in the Mokoko before we reached Mokokonyani, where the Avater, generally beloAv ground elscAvhere, comes to the surface in a bed of tufa. The adjacent country is all covered Avith low thorny scrub, with grass, and here and there clumps of the " wait-a-bit thorn," or Acacia detinens. At Lotlakani (a little reed), another spring tln-ee miles further down, we met with the first Palm^rra trees Avliich we had seen in South Africa ; they Avere tAventy-six in number. The ancient Mokoko must have been joined by other rivers below tliis, for it becomes very broad, and spreads out into a large lake, of which the lake Ave Avere noAV in search of formed but a very small part. We observed that, Avherever an ant-eater had made liis hole, shells were tln:*own out Avith the earth, identical Avith those noAV alive in the lake. Wlien we left the Mokoko, Eamotobi seemed, for the fii'st time, to be at a loss as to Avliich direction to take. He had passed only once away to the west of the Mokoko, the scenes of his boyhood. Mr. OsAveU, wliile riding in front of the waggons, happened to spy a BusliAvoman running away in a bent position, in order to escape observation. Tliinking it to be a Hon, he galloped up to her. She thought herself captured, and began to dehver up her poor 62 SALT-PAN — MIRAGE. Chap. III. little property, consisting of a few traps made of cords ; but, when I explained that we only wanted water, and would pay her if she led us to it, she consented to conduct us to a spring. It was then late in the afternoon, but she walked briskly before our horses for eight miles, and showed us the water of Nchokotsa. After lead- ing us to the water, she wished to go away home, if indeed she had any — she had fled from a party of her countrymen, and was now li^dng far from all others with her husband — but as it was now dark, we wished her to remain. As she believed herself still a captive, we thought she might slip away by night, so, in order that she should not go away mth the impression that we were dishonest, we gave her a piece of meat and a good large bunch of beads ; at the sight of the latter she bm^st into a merry laugh, and remained mthout suspicion. At Nchokotsa we came upon the first of a great number of salt- pans, covered with an efflorescence of lime, probably the nitrate. A tlnck belt of mopane-trees (a Bauliinia) hides tliis salt-pan, w^hich is twenty miles in cu'cumference, enthely from the view of a person coming from the south-east ; and, at the time the pan burst upon our view, the settmg sun was casting a beautiful blue haze over the white incrustations, making the whole look exactly like a lake. Oswell tln-ew^ his hat up in the air at the sight, and shouted out a huzza wliich made the poor Bushwoman and the Bakwains think him mad. I was a httle beliind him, and was as completely deceived by it as he ; but as we had agreed to allow each other to behold the lake at the same instant, I felt a Kttle chagrined that he had, umntentionally, got the first glance. We had no idea that the long-looked-for lake was still more than tlu-ee hundred miles distant. One reason of our mistake was, that the river Zouga was often spoken of by the same name as the lake, viz. Noka ea Batleth (" river of the Batleth "). The mu'age on these salinas was marvellous. It is never, I beheve, seen in perfection, except over such saline incrustations. Here not a particle of imagination was necessary for reahzing the exact picture of large collections of water ; the waves danced along above, and the shadows of the trees were vividly reflected beneath the surface in such an admirable manner, that the loose cattle, whose thirst had not been slaked sufficiently by the very brackish water of Nchokotsa, with the horses, dogs, and even the Hotten- Chap. III. THE ZOUGA. 63 tots, ran off towards the deceitful pools. A herd of zebras in tlie mil-age looked so exactly like elephants, that Oswell began to saddle a horse in order to hunt them ; but a sort of break in the haze dispelled the illusion. Looking to the west and north-west from Xchokotsa, we could see columns of black smoke, exactly hke those from a steam-engine, rising to the clouds, and were assured that these arose from the burning reeds of the Xoka ea Batletli. On the 4th of July we went forward on horseback towards what we supposed to be the lake, and again and agam did we seem to see it ; but at last we came to the veritable water of the Zouga, and found it to be a river runm'ng to the X.E. A ATllage of Bakurutse lay on the opposite bank ; these live among Batleth, a tribe ha^TQg a cKck in then language, and who were found by Sebituane to possess large herds of the great horned cattle. They seem allied to the Hottentot family. Mr. Oswell, in trying to cross the river, got his horse bogged in the swampy bank. Two Bakwains and I managed to get over by wading beside a fishing- weir. The people were friendly, and informed us that this water came out of the Xgami. This news gladdened all our hearts, for we now felt certain of reaching our goal. We might, they said, be a moon on the way ; but we had the river Zouga at our feet, and by follo^Ting it we should at last reach the broad water. Xext day, when we were quite disposed to be friendly with every one, two of the Bamangwato, who had been sent on before us by Sekomi to drive away all the Bushmen and Bakalahari from our path, so that they should not assist or guide us, came and sat down by our fire. We had seen their footsteps fresh in the way, and they had Avatched our slow movements forward, and wondered to see how we, without any Bushmen, found our way to the waters. This was the first time they had seen Eamotobi. " You have reached the river now," said they ; and we, quite disposed to laugh at having won the game, felt no ill-will to any one. They seemed to feel no enmity to us either ; but after an apparently friendly conversation proceeded to fulfil to the last the instructions of their chief Ascending the Zouga in our front, they cnculated the report that our object was to plunder all the tribes Hving on the river and lake ; but when they had got half way up the river, the principal man sickened of fever, turned back some distance. 64 THE QUAKERS OF AFRICA. Chap. III. and died. His death liad a good effect, for tlie villagers connected it vdth. the injury he was attempting to do to us. They all saw through Sekomi's reasons for wishing us to fail in our attempt ; and though they came to us at first armed, kind and fair treat- ment soon produced perfect confidence. When we had gone up the bank of this beautiful river about ninety-six miles from the point where Ave fii'st struck it, and understood that we w^ere still a considerable distance from the Ngami, we left all the oxen and waggons, except ]\Ir. Oswell's, which was the smallest, and one team, at Xgabisane, in the hope that they would be recruited for the home journey, while we made a push for the lake. The Bechuana chief of the Lake region, who had sent men to Secliele, now sent orders to all the people on the river to assist us, and we were received by the Bakoba, whose language clearly shows that they bear an affinity to the tribes in the north. They call themselves Bayeiye, i. e. men ; but the Bechuanas caU them Bakoba, which contains somewhat of the idea of slaves. They have never been kno\\Ti to fight, and, indeed, have a tradition that their forefathers, in their first essays at war, made their bows of the Pahna-Christi ; and, when these broke, they gave up fighting altogether. They have invariably submitted to the rule of every horde which has overrun the countries adjacent to the rivers on which they specially love to dweU. They are thus the Quakers of the body pohtic in Africa. A long time after the period of our visit, the cliief of the Lake, tliuildng to make soldiers of them, took the trouble to furnish them with shields. " Ah ! we never had these before ; that is the reason we have ahvays succumbed. Now we a\t11 fight." But a marauding party came from the Makololo, and our "Friends" at once paddled quickly, night and day, down the Zouga, never daring to look behind them tiQ they reached the end of the river, at the point where we fii'st saw it. The canoes of these inland sadors are truly prunitive craft : they are hollowed out of the trunks of single trees by means of iron adzes ; and, if the tree has a bend, so has the canoe. I hked the frank and manly bearing of these men, and, instead of sitting in the waggon, preferred a seat m one of the canoes. I found they regarded their rude vessels as the Ai^ab does his camel. Chap. III. DISCOVERY OF LAKE NGAMI. 65 They have always fires in them, and prefer sleepmg in them while on a journey to spending the night on shore. " On land you have lions " — say they — " serpents, hyaenas, and your ene- mies; but in your canoe, behind a bank of reed, nothing can harm you." Their submissive disposition leads to their villages being frequently visited by hungry strangers. We had a pot on the fire in the canoe by the way, and when we drew near the villages devoured the contents. When fully satisfied ourselves, I found we could all look upon any intruders with perfect com- placency, and show the pot in proof of having devoured the last morsel. While ascending in this way the beautifully-wooded river, we came to a large stream flowing into it. This was the river Tamunak'le. I inquired whence it came. " Oh, from a country full of rivers — so many no one can tell their number — and full of large trees ! " This was the first confirmation of statements I had heard from the Bakwains who had been mth Sebituane, that the country beyond was not " the large sandy plateau " of the philosophers. The prospect of a highway capable of being tra- versed by boats to an entirely unexplored and very populous region, grew fr'om that time forward stronger and stronger in my mind ; so much so, that, when we actually came to the lake, tliis idea occupied such a large portion of my mental vision that the actual discovery seemed of but httle importance. I find I wrote, when the emotions caused by the magnificent prospects of the new country were first awakened in my breast, that they " might subject me to the charge of enthusiasm, a charge which I wished I deserved, as nothing good or great had ever been accomplished in the world without it."* Twelve days after our departure from the waggons at Ngabi- sane we came to the north-east end of Lake Ngami ; and on the 1st of August, 1849, we went down together to the broad part, and, for the first time, tliis fine-looking sheet of water was beheld by Europeans. The direction of the lake seemed to be N.N.E. and S.S.W. by compass. The southern portion is said to bend round to the west, and to receive the Teoughe from the north at * Letters published by the Royal Geographical Society. Read lltli Feb. and 8th April, 1850. F 66 THE NGAMI. Chap. III. its north-west extremity. We could detect no horizon where we stood loolting S.S.W. ; nor could we form any idea of the extent of the lake except from the reports of the inhabitants of the dis- trict ; and, as they professed to go round it in tln-ee days, allowing twenty-five miles a-day would make it seventy-five, or less than seventy geographical miles in circumference. Other guesses have been made since as to its circumference, ranging between seventy and one hundred miles. It is shallow, for I subsequently saw a native punting liis canoe over seven or eight miles of the north- east end ; it can never, therefore, be of much value as a com- mercial highway. In fact, during the months preceding the annual supply of water from the north, the lake is so shallow that it is with difficulty cattle can approach the water tlu-ough the boggy, reedy banks. These are low on all sides, but on the west there is a space devoid of trees, showing that the waters have retired thence at no very ancient date. This is another of the proofs of desiccation met with so abundantly tln-oughout the whole country. A number of dead trees He on this S23ace, some of them embedded in the mud, right in the water. We were informed by the Bayeiye, who Hve on the lake, that, when the annual mundation begins, not only trees of great size, but ante- lopes, as the springbuck and tsessebe {Acrmotus lunatd), are swept down by its rushing waters ; the trees are gradually driven by the winds to the opposite side, and become embedded in mud. The water of the lake is perfectly fresh when full, but brackish when low ; and that coming down the Tamunak'le we found to be so clear, cold, and soft, the higher we ascended, that the idea of melting snow was suggested to our minds. We found this region, with regard to that from which we had come, to be clearly a hollow, the lowest j)oint being Lake Kumadau ; the point of the ebullition of water, as shown by one of Newman's barometric ther- mometers, was only between 207^° and 206°, giving an elevation of not much more than two thousand feet above the level of the sea. We had descended above two thousand feet ia coming to it from Kolobeng. It is the southern and lowest part of the great river system beyond, in wliich large tracts of country are inundated annually by tropical rains, hereafter to be described. A Httle of that water, which in the countries farther north produces inunda- Chap. III. THE NGAMI. 67 tion, comes as far south as 20° 20', the latitude of the upper end of the lake, and, instead of flooding the country, falls into the lake as into a reservoir. It begins to flow do^Ti the Embarrah, which divides into the rivers Tzo and Teoughe. The Tzo divides into the Tamunak'le and Mababe; the Tamunak'le discharges itself into the Zouga, and the Teoughe into the lake. The flow begins either in March or April, and the descending waters find the channels of all these rivers dried out, except in certain pools in their beds, which have long dry spaces between them. The lake itself is very low. The Zouga is but a prolongation of the Tamunak'le, and an arm of the lake reaches up to the point where the one ends and the other begins. This last is narrow and shallow, while the Zouga is broad and deep. The narrow arm of the lake, which on the map looks like a continuation of the Zouga, has never been observed to flow either way. It is as stagnant as the lake itself. The Teoughe and Tamunak'le, being essentially the same river, and receiving their supplies from the same som^ce (the EmbaiTah or Varra), can never outrun each other. If either could, or if the Teoughe could fill the lake — a thing wliich has never hap- pened in modern times — then tliis httle arm would prove a con- venient escapement to prevent inundation. If the lake ever becomes lower than the bed of the Zouga, a httle of the water of the Tamunak'le might flow into it instead of down the Zouga ; we should then have the phenomenon of a river flowing two ways ; but this has never been observed to take place here, and it is doubtful if it ever can occur in tliis locahty. The Zouga is broad and deep \Yhen it leaves the Tamunak'le, but becomes gradually narrower as you descend about two hundred miles ; there it flows iuto Kumadau, a small lake about three or four miles broad and twelve long. The water, which higher up begins to flow in April, does not make much progress in fiUing tliis lake till the end of J une. In September the rivers cease to flow. AVlien the supply has been more than usually abundant, a httle water flows beyond Kumadau, iu the bed fii'st seen by us on the 4th of July ; if the quantity were larger, it might go further in the dry rocky bed of the Zouga, since seen still further to the east. The water supply of this part of the river system, as will be more fuUy explaiaed farther on, takes place in channels prepared for a much more F 2 68 THE BAMANGWATO AKD THEIR CHIEF. Chap. III. copious flow. It resembles a deserted Eastern garden, where all the embankments and canals for irrigation can be traced, but where, the main dam and sluices having been allowed to get out of repair, only a small portion can be laid under water. In the case of the Zouga the channel is perfect, but water enough to fill the whole channel never comes down ; and before it finds its way- much beyond Kumadau, the upper supply ceases to run, and the rest becomes evaporated. The higher parts of its bed even are much broader and more capacious than the lower towards Kumadau. The water is not absorbed so much as lost in filling up an empty channel, from which it is to be removed by the air and sun. There is, I am convinced, no such tiling in the country as a river running into sand and becoming lost. This phenomenon, so convenient for geographers, haunted my fancy for years ; but I have failed in discovering anything except a most insignificant approach to it. My chief object in coming to the lake was to visit Sebituane, the great chief of the Makololo, who was reported to live some two hundred miles beyond. We had now come to a half-tribe of the Bamangwato, called Batauana. Their chief was a young man named Lechulatebe. Sebituane had conquered his father Mo- remi, and Lechulatebe received part of his education while a captive among the Bayeiye. His uncle, a sensible man, ran- somed Ixim ; and, having collected a number of families together, abdicated the chieftainsliip in favour of his nephew. As Lechu- latebe had just come into power, he imagined that the proper way of showing liis abilities was to act dhectly contrary to every- thing that his uncle advised. When we came, the uncle recom- mended him to treat us handsomely, therefore the hopeful youth presented us with a goat only. It ought to have been an ox. So I proposed to my companions to loose the animal and let him go, as a hint to his master. They, however, did not Avish to insult him. I, being more of a native, and familiar vdth their customs, knew that tliis shabby present was an insult to us. We wished to purchase some goats or oxen ; Lechulatebe offered us elephants' tusks. " No, we cannot eat these ; we want some- tliing to fill our stomachs." " Neither can I ; but I hear you white men are all very fond of these bones, so I offer them ; I want to put the goats into my own stomach." A trader, who Chap. UI. BANKS OF THE ZOUGA — PITFALLS. 69 accompanied us, was then purcliasmg ivory at the rate of ien good large tusks for a musket worth tliirteen shillings. They were called " bones," and I myself saw eight instances in which the tusks had been left to rot with the other bones where the elephant fell. The Batauana never had a chance of a market before ; but in less than two years after our discovery, not a man of them could be found who was not keenly alive to the great value of the article. On the day after our arrival at the lake, I apphed to Lechu- latebe for guides to Sebituane. As he was much afraid of that chief, he objected,' fearing lest other white men should go thither also, and give Sebituane guns ; whereas, if the traders came to him alone, the possession of firearms would give him such a supe- riority, that Sebituane would be afraid of him. It was in vain to explain that I would inculcate peace between them — that Sebi- tuane had been a father to him and Sechele, and was as anxious to see me as he, Lechulatebe, had been. He offered to give me as much ivory as I needed without going to that chief. But when I refused to take any, he unwillingly consented to give me guides. Next day, however, when Oswell and I were prepared to start, with the horses only, we received a senseless refusal ; and like Sekomi, who had thrown obstacles in our way, he sent men to the Bayeiye with orders to refuse us a passage across the river. Tr}ang hard to form a raft at a narrow part, I worked many hours in the water, but the dry wood was so wormeaten it would not bear the weight of a single person. I was not then aware of the number of aUigators which exist in the Zouga, and never think of my labour in the water without feeling thankftd that I escaped their jaws. The season was now far advanced ; and as ]\Ir. Oswell, with his wonted generous feelings, volun- teered on the spot to go down to the Cape and bring up a boat, we resolved to make our way south again. Coming down the Zouga we had now time to look at its banks. These are very beautiful, resembling closely many parts of the river Clyde above Glasgow. The formation is soft calcareous tufa, such as forms the bottom of all this basin. The banks are perpendicular on the side to which the water swings, and slopiag and grassy on the other. The slopes are selected for the pitfalls designed by the Bayeiye to entrap the animals as they come to 70 TEEES OF THE DISTRICT. Chap. III. drink. These are about seven or eight feet deep, three or four feet wide at the mouth, and gradually decrease tiU they are only about a foot vnde at the bottom. The mouth is an oblong square (the only square thing made by the Bechuanas, for eYer}i:hing else is round), and the long diameter at the surface is about equal to the depth. The decreasing mdth towards the bottom is in- tended to make the animal wedge liimself more firmly in by his weight and struggles. The pitfalls are usually in paus, with a wall a foot thick left uncut between the ends of each. So that if the beast, when it feels its fore legs descending, should try to save itself from going in altogether by striding the liind legs, he would spring forward and leap into the second with a force which insures the fall of liis whole body into the trap. They are covered vdth great care ; all the excavated earth is removed to a distance, so as not to excite suspicion in the minds of the animals. Keeds and grass are laid across the top ; above this the sand is thrown, and watered so as to appear exactly like the rest of the spot. Some of our party plumped into these pitfalls more than once, even when in search of them, in order to open them to prevent the loss of our cattle. If an ox sees a hole, he carefully avoids it. And old elephants have been knoTNH to precede the herd and whisk off the coverings of the pitfalls on each side aU the way dovsn to the water. We have known instances in which the old among these sagacious animals have actually hfted the young out of the trap. The trees wliich adorn the banks are magnificent. Two enor- mous baobabs {^Adansonia digitatd), or mowanas, grow near its confluence with the lake where we took the observations for the latitude (20° 20' S.) We were unable to ascertain the longitude of the lake, as our watches were useless ; it may be between 22° and 23° E. The largest of the two baobabs was 76 feet in ghth. The palm^Ta appears here and there among trees not met with in the south. The mokuchong or moshoma bears an edible fruit of indifferent quahty, but the tree itself would be a fine specimen of arboreah beauty in any part of the world. The trunk is often converted into canoes. The motsouri, which bears a pink plum containing a pleasant acid juice, resembles an orange-tree in its dark evergreen fohage, and a cypress in its form. It was now wdnter-time, and we saw nothing of the flora. Chap. III. ELEPHANTS-NEW SPECIES OF ANTELOPE. 71 The plants and bushes were dry ; but wild indigo abounded, as indeed it does over large tracts of Africa. It is called mohetolo, or the " changer," by the boys, who dye their ornaments of straw with the juice. There are two kinds of cotton in the country, and the Mashona, who convert it into cloth, dye it blue with tins plant. We found the elephants in prodigious numbers on the southern bank. They come to drink by night, and after having slaked their thirst — in doing which they throw large quantities of water over themselves, and are heard, while enjoying the refreshment, screaming with delight — they evince their horror of pitfalls by setting off in a straight line to the desert, and never diverge till they are eight or ten miles off. They are smaller here than in the countries further south. At the Limpopo, for instance, they are upwards of twelve feet high ; here, only eleven : ftu'ther north we shall find them nine feet only. The koodoo, or tolo, seemed smaller too than those we had been accustomed to see. We saw specimens of the kuabaoba, or straight-horned rliinoceros {R, Oswellii), wliich is a variety of the wliite {R. simus) ; and we found that, from the horn being projected do^Tiwards, it did not obstruct the line of vision; so that tliis species is able to be much more wary than its neighbours. We discovered an entirely new species of antelope, called leche or lechwi. It is a beautiful water-antelope of a hght brownish- yeUow colour. Its horns — exactly hke those of the Aigoceros eUipsiprimnus, the water-buck, or tumoga of the Bechuanas — rise from the head with a slight bend backwards, then curve for- wards at the poiQts. The chest, beUy, and orbits are nearly white, the front of the legs and ankles deep brown. From the horns, along the nape to the withers, the male has a small mane of the same yellowish colour with the rest of the skin, and the tail has a tuft of black hair. It is never found a mile from water ; islets in marshes and rivers are its favom'ite haunts, and it is quite unknown except in the central humid basia of Africa. Having a good deal of curiosity, it presents a noble appearance as it stands gazing with head erect at the approaching stranger. Wlien it resolves to decamp, it lowers its head, and lays its horns dowTi to a level with the withers ; it then begias with a waddling 72 FISH IN THE ZOUGA. Chap. III. trot, which ends in its galloping and springing over bushes like the pallahs. It invariably runs to the water, and crosses it by a suc- cession of bounds, each of which appears to be from the bottom. We thought the flesh good at first, but soon got tired of it. Great shoals of excellent fish come down annually with the access of waters. The mullet (Mugil Africanus) is the most abundant. They are caught in nets. The Glanis siluris, a large broad-headed fish, without scales, and barbed — called by the natives " mosala " — attains an enor- mous size and fatness. They are caught so large that when a man carries one over his shoulder the tail reaches the ground. It is a vegetable feeder, and in many of its habits resembles the eel. Like most lophoid fishes, it has the power of retaining a large quantity of water in a part of its great head, so that it can leave the river, and even be buried in the mud of dried-up pools, without being destroyed. Another fish closely resembling this, and named Clarias eapensis by Dr. Smith, is widely diffused tln-oughout the interior, and often leaves the rivers for the sake of feeding in pools. As these dry up, large numbers of them are entrapped by the people. A water-snake, yellow spotted and dark brown, is often seen swimming along with his head above the water ; it is quite harmless, and is rehshed as food by the Bayeiye. They mention ten kinds of fish in their river : and, in their songs of praise to the Zouga, say, " The messenger sent in haste is always forced to spend the night on the way, by the abundance of food you place before him." The Bayeiye live much on fish, which is quite an abomination to the Bechuanas in the south; and they catch them in large numbers by means of nets made of the fine strong fibres of the hibiscus, which grows abundantly in all moist places. Their float-ropes are made of the ife, or, as it is now called, the Sanseviere Angolensis, a flag-looking plant, having a very strong fibre, that abounds from Kolobeng to Angola; and the floats themselves are pieces of a water- plant containing valves at each joint, which retain the air in cells about an inch long. The mode of knottmg the nets is identical with our own. They also spear the fish with javelins having a light handle, Chap. III. FISHING-CANOES. 73 which readily floats on the surface. They show great dexterity in harpooning the hippopotamus ; and, the barbed blade of the spear being attached to a rope made of the young leaves of the palmyra, the animal cannot rid hims^ of the canoe, attached to him in whale fashion, except by smasliing it, which he not un- frequently does by his teeth or by a stroke of his hind foot. On returning to the Bakurlitse, we found that their canoes for fishing were simply large bundles of reeds tied together. Such a canoe would be a ready extemporaneous pontoon for crossing any river that had reedy banks. 74 START FOR THE COUNTRY OF SEBITUANE. Chap. IV. CHAPTER ly. Leave Kolobeng again for the coimtry of Sebituane — Eeacli the Zouga — The tsetse — A party of Englishmen — Death of Mr. Rider — Obtain guides — Children fall sick with fever — Relinquish the attempt to reach Sebituane — Mr. Oswell's elephant-hunting — Return to Kolobeng — Make a third start thence — Reach Nchokotsa — Salt-pans — " Links," or springs — Bushmen — Our guide Shobo — The Banajoa — An ugly chief — The tsetse — Bite fatal to domestic animals, but harmless to wild animals and man — Operation of the poison — Losses caused by it — The Makololo — Our meeting with Sebituane — Sketch of his career — His courage and conquests — Manoeuvres of the Batoka — He outwits them — His wars with the Matebele — Predictions of a native prophet — Suc- cesses of the Makololo — Renewed attacks of the Matebele — The island of Loyelo — Defeat of the Matebele — Sebituane's policy — His kindness to strangers, and to the poor — His sudden illness, and death — Succeeded by his daughter — Her friendliness to us — Discovery, in June, 1851, of the Zambesi flowing in the centre of the continent — Its size — The Mambari — The slave-trade — Determine to send family to England — Return to the Cape in April 1852 — Safe transit through the Caflfre country during hostilities — Need of a " Special Correspondent" — Kindness of the Lon- don Missionary Society — Assistance afforded by the Astronomer Royal at the Cape. Having returned to Kolobeng, I remained there till April, 1850, and then left in company with Mrs. Livingstone, our three cliildren, and the chief Sechele, — who had now bought a waggon of his own, — in order to go across the Zouga at its lower end, with the intention of proceeding up the northern bank till we gained the Tamunak'le, and of then ascending that river to visit Sebituane in the north. Sekomi had given orders to fiU up the wells which we had dug with so much labour at Serotli, so we took the more eastern route through the Bamangwato town and by Letloche. That chief asked why I had avoided him in our former journeys ? I replied that my reason was that I knew he did not wish me to go to the lake, and I did not want to quarrel with him. " Well," he said, " you beat me then, and I am content." Parting with Sechele at the ford, as he was eager to visit Lechulatebe, we went along the northern woody bank of the Chap. IV. GUIDES OBTAINED FROM LECHULATEBE. 75 Zouga with great labour, having to cut down very many trees to allow the waggons to pass. Our losses by oxen falling into pitfalls were very heavy. The Bayeiye kindly opened the pits when they knew of our approach ; but when that was not the case, we could blame no one on finding an established custom of the country inimical to our interests. On approaching the con- fluence of the Tamunak'le we were infoimed that the fly called tsetse * abounded on its banks. This was a barrier we never expected to meet ; and as it might have brought our waggons to a complete stand-still in a wilderness, where no supplies for the children could be obtained, we were reluctantly compelled to recross the Zouga. From the Bayeiye we learned that a party of Englishmen, who had come to the lake in search of ivory, were all laid low by fever ; so we travelled hastily down about sixty miles to render what aid was in our power. We were grieved to find as we came near that Mr. Alfred Eider, an enterprising young artist who had come to make sketches of this .country and of the lake imme- diately after its discovery, had died of fever before our arrival ; but, by the aid of medicines and such comforts as could be made by the only Enghsh lady who ever visited the lake, the others happily recovered. The unfinished drawing of Lake Ngami was made by Mr. Eider just before his death, and has been kindly lent for this work by his bereaved mother. Sechele used all his powers of eloquence with Lechulatebe to induce him to furnish guides that I might be able to visit Sebi- tuane on ox-back, while Mrs. Livingstone and the children re- mained at Lake Ngami. He yielded at last. I had a very superior London-made gun, the gift of Lieutenant Arkwright, on which I placed the greatest value both on account of the donor and the impossibility of my replacing it. Lechulatebe fell violently in love with it, and offered whatever number of elephants' tusks I might ask for it. I too was enamoured with Sebituane ; and, as he promised in addition that he would furnish Mrs. Living- stone with meat all the time of my absence, his arguments made me part with the gun. Though he had no ivory at the time to pay me, I felt the piece would be well spent on those terms, and * Olossina morsitans ; the first specimens of whicli were brought to Eng- land in 1848 by my friend Major Vardon, from the banks of the Limpopo. 76 ME. OSWELL'S HUNTING. Chap. IV^. delivered it to liim. All being ready for our departure, I took Mrs. Livingstone about six miles from the town that she might have a peep at the broad part of the Lake. Next morning we had other work to do than part, for our Httle boy and girl were seized mth fever. On the day following all our servants were down too with the same complaint. As nothing is better in these cases than change of place, I was forced to give up the hope of seeing Sebituane that year ; so, leaving my gun as part payment for guides next year, we started for the pure air of the Desert. Some mistake had happened in the arrangement with Mr. Oswell, for we met him on the Zouga on our return, and he devoted the rest of this season to elephant-hunting, at which the natives universally declare he is the greatest adept that ever came into the country. He hunted mthout dogs. It is remark- able that this lordly animal is so completely harassed by the presence of a few yelping curs as to be quite incapable of attend- ing to man. He makes awkw:ard attempts to crush them by falling on his knees ; and sometimes places his forehead against a tree ten inches in diameter ; glancing on one side of the tree and then on the other, he pushes it doT^Ti before him, as if he thought thereby to catch his enemies. The only danger the himtsman has to apprehend is the dogs running towards him, and thereby leading the elephant to their master. Mr. Oswell has been known to kiQ four large old male elephants a day. The value of the ivory in these cases would be one hundred guineas. We had reason to be proud of his success, for the inhabitants conceived from it a very high idea of Enghsh courage, and when they wished to flatter me would say, " If you were not a missionary you would just be Like Oswell ; you would not hunt with dogs either." When in 1852 we came to the Cape, my black coat eleven years out of fashion, and A^ithout a penny of salary to draw, we found that Mr. OsweU had most generously ordered an outfit for the half- naked children, which cost about 200Z., and presented it to us, saying he thought Mrs. Livingstone had a right to the game of her OAvn preserves. Foiled in this second attempt to reach Sebituane, we returned again to Kolobeng, wtoher we were soon foUowed by a number of messengers from that chief himself. When he heard of our Chap. IV. NCHOKOTSA — SALT-PANS. 77 attempts to visit him, he despatched three detachments of liis men with thirteen bro^^Ti cows to Lechulatebe, thirteen white cows to Sekomi, and thirteen black cows to Sechele, with a request to each to assist the white men to reach him. Their poHcy, however, was to keep him out of view, and act as his agents in purchasing with his ivory the goods he wanted. This is thoroughly African; and that continent being without friths and arms of the sea, the tribes in the centre have always been debarred from European intercourse, by its universal prevalence among all the people around the coasts. Before setting out on our third journey to Sebituane, it was necessary to visit Kuruman ; and Sechele, eager, for the sake of the commission thereon, to get the ivory of that cliief into liis own hands, allowed all the messengers to leave before our return. Sekomi, however, was more than usually gracious, and even furnished us with a guide, but no one knew the path beyond Nchokotsa, which we intended to follow. When we reached that point, we found that the main spring of the gun of another of his men, who was well acquainted with the Bushmen, through whose country we should pass, had opportunely broken. I never under- took to mend a gun with greater zest than this ; for, under a promise of his guidance, we went to the north instead of westward. All the other guides were most Hberally rewarded by Mr. Oswell. We passed quickly over a hard country, which is perfectly flat. A httle soil lying on calcareous tufa, over a tract of several hundreds of miles, supports a vegetation of fine sweet short grass, and mopane and baobab trees. On several parts of this we found large salt-pans, one of wliich, Ntwetwe, is fifteen miles broad, and one hundred long. The latitude might have been taken on its horizon as well as upon the sea. Although these cm-ious spots seem perfectly level, all those in tliis direction have a gentle slope to the north-east : tliither the rain-water, which sometimes covers them, gently gravitates. Tliis, it may be recollected, is the direction of the Zouga. The salt dissolved in the water has by this means all been transferred to one pan in that direction, named Chuantsa ; on it we see a cake of salt and lime an inch and a half tliick. All the others have an efflorescence of lime and one of the nitrates only, and 78 SPRINGS — BUSHMEN. Chap. IV. some are covered thickly with shells. These shells are identical with those of the moUusca of Lake Ngaini and the Zouga. There are three varieties — spiral, univalve, and bivalve. In every salt-pan in the country there is a spring of water on one side. I can remember no exception to this rule. The water of these springs is brackish, and contains the nitrate of soda. In one instance there are two springs, and one more saltish than the other. If this supply came from beds of rock salt the water would not be drinkable, as it generally is, and in some instances, where the salt contained in the pan in which these springs appear has been removed by human agency, no fresh deposit occurs. It is therefore probable that these deposits of salt are the remains of the very sKghtly brackish lakes of antiquity, large portions of which must have been dried out in the general desiccation. We see an instance in Lake Ngami, which when low becomes brackish, and this view seems supported by the fact that the largest quan- tities of salt have been found in the deepest hollows or lowest valleys, which have no outlet or outgoing gorge ; and a fountain, about thirty miles south of the Bamangwato — the temperatm-e of which is upwards of 100° — wliile strongly impregnated with pure salt, being on a flat part of the country, is accompanied by no deposit. When these deposits occur in a flat tufaceous country like the present, a large space is devoid of vegetation, on account of the nitrates dissolving the tufa, and keeping it in a state unfavourable to the growth of plants. We found a great number of weUs in this tufa. A place called Matlomagan-yana, or the " Links," is quite a chain of these never- failing springs. As they occasionally become full in seasons when no rain falls, and resemble somewhat in this respect the rivers we have already mentioned, it is probable they receive some water by percolation fr'om the river system in the country beyond. Among these Links we found many families of Bushmen ; and, unlike those on the plains of the Kalahari, who are generally of short stature and Hght-yellow colour, these were tall strapping fellows, of dark complexion. Heat alone does not produce black- ness of skin, but heat mth moisture seems to insure the deepest hue. One of these Bushmen, named Shobo, consented to be our Chap. IY. THE GUIDE SHOBO. 79 guide over the waste between these springs and the country of Sebituane. Shobo gave us no hope of water in less than a month. Providentially, however, we came sooner than we expected to some supplies of rain-water in a chain of pools. It is impossible to convey an idea of the dreary scene on which we entered after leaving this spot : the only vegetation was a low scrub in deep sand ; not a bird or insect enlivened the landscape. It was without exception the most uninviting prospect I ever beheld ; and, to make matters worse, our guide Shobo wandered on the second day. We coaxed him on at night, but he went to aU points of the compass on the trails of elephants wliich had been here in the rainy season ; and then would sit do^vn in the path, and in his broken Sichuana say, "No water, all country only ; — Shobo sleeps ; — he breaks down ; — country only ; " — and then coolly curl himself up and go to sleep. The oxen were terribly fatigued and tliirsty ; and on the mornmg of the fourth day Shobo, after professing ignorance of everything, vanished altogether. We went on in the direction in wliich we last saw him, and about eleven o'clock began to see birds; then the trail of a rliinoceros. At this we unyoked the oxen, and they, apparently knowing the sign, rushed along to find the water in the river Mababe, wliich comes from the Tamunak'le, and lay to the west of us. The supply of water in the waggons had been wasted by one of our servants, and by the afternoon only a small portion remained for the children. This was a bitterly anxious night ; and next morning the less there was of water, the more thirsty the little rogues became. The idea of then perisliing before our eyes was terrible. It would almost have been a relief to me to have been reproached with being the entire cause of the catastrophe, but not one syllable of upbraiding was uttered by their mother, though the tearful eye told the agony within. In the afternoon of the fifth day, to our inexpressible relief, some of the men retm-ned with a supply of that fluid of which we had never before felt the true value. The cattle in rushing along to the water in the Mababe pro- bably crossed a small patch of trees containing tsetse, an insect wliich was shortly to become a perfect pest to us. Shobo had found his way to the Bayeiye, and appeared, when we came up to the river, at the head of a party ; and, as he wished to show 80 THE BANAJOA — THE TSETSE. Chap. IV. his importance before his Mends, he walked up boldly and com- manded our whole cavalcade to stop, and to bring forth fire and tobacco, while he coolly sat down and smoked his pipe. It was such an inimitably natural way of showing off, that we all stopped to admire the acting, and, though he had left us previously in the lurch, we all liked Shobo, a fine specimen of that wonderful people, the Bushmen. Next day we came to a village of Banajoa, a tribe which extends far to the eastward. They were living on the borders of a marsh in wliich the Mababe terminates. They had lost their crop of corn (holcus sorghum), and now subsisted almost enthely on the root called "tsitla," a kind of aroidcea, which contains a very large quantity of sweet-tasted starch. When dried, pounded into meal, and allowed to ferment, it forms a not unpleasant article of food. The women shave all the hair off their heads, and seem darker than the Bechuanas. Their huts were built on poles, and a fire is made beneath by night, in order that the smoke may drive away the mosquitoes, which abound on the Mababe and Tamunak'le more than in any other part of the country. The head man of this village, Majane, seemed a little wanting in ability ; but had had wit enough to promote a younger member of the family to the oflSce. This person, the most like the ugly negro of the tobacconists' shops I ever saw, was called Moroa Majane, or son of Majane, and proved an active guide across the river Sonta, and to the banks of the Chobe, in the country of Sebituane. We had come tln-ough another tsetse district by night, and at once passed our cattle over to the northern bank to preserve them from its ravages. A few remarks on the Tsetse, or Glossina morsitans, may here be appropriate. It is not much larger than the common house- fly, and is nearly of the same brown colour as the common honey-bee ; the after part of the body has three or four yeUow bars across it ; the wings project beyond tliis part considerably, and it is remarkably alert, avoiding most dexterously all attempts to capture it with the hand, at common temperatm-es ; in the cool of the mornings and evenings it is less agile. Its pecuhar buzz when once heard can never be forgotten by the traveller whose means of locomotion are domestic animals ; for it is well known that the bite of tliis poisonous insect is certain death to Chap. IV. OPERATION OF TSETSE POISON. 81 the ox, horse, and dog. In this journey, though we were not aware of any great number having at any time lighted on our cattle, we lost forty-three fine oxen by its bite. We watched the animals carefully, and believe that not a score of flies were ever upon them. A most remarkable feature in the bite of the tsetse is its perfect harmlessness in man and wild animals, and even calves so long as they contiuue to suck the cows. We never experienced the slightest injury from them ourselves, personally, although we lived two months in their habitat, which was in tliis case as sharply defined as -in many others, for the south bank of the Chobe was infested by them, and the northern bank, where our cattle were placed, only fifty yards distant, contained not a single specimen. This was the more remarkable, as we often saw natives carrying over raw meat to the opposite bank with many tsetse settled upon it. The poison does not seem to be injected by a sting, or by ova placed beneath the skin, for, when one is allowed to feed freely on the hand, it is seen to iusert the middle prong of three portions, iuto which the proboscis divides, somewhat deeply into the true skiu ; it then draws it out a Kttle way, and it assumes a crimson colour as the mandibles come into brisk operation. The previously slu-unken belly swells out, and, if left undistui-bed, the fly quietly departs when it is full. A slight itching irritation follows, but not more than in the bite of a mosquito. In the ox this same bite produces no more immediate effects than in man. It does not startle him as the gad-fly does ; but a few days after- wards the following symptoms supervene : the eye and nose begin to run, the coat stares as if the animal were cold, a swelling appears under the jaw, and sometimes at the navel ; and, though the animal continues to graze, emaciation commences, accom- panied with a peculiar flaccidity of the muscles, and this proceeds unchecked until, perhaps months afterwards, purging comes on, and the animal, no longer able to graze, perishes in a state of extreme exhaustion. Those which are in good condition often perish soon after the bite is inflicted with staggering and blind- ness, as if the brain were affected by it. Sudden changes of temperature produced by falls of rain seem to hasten the progress of the complaint; but in general the emaciation goes on urdn- G 82 THE TSETSE POISON. Chap. IV. teiTuptedly for months, and, do what we will, the poor animals perish miserably. When opened, the cellular tissue on the surface of the body beneath the skin is seen to be injected with air, as if a quantity of soap-bubbles were scattered over it, or a dishonest awkward butcher had been trying to make it look fat. The fat is of a greenish-yellow colour and of an oily consistence. All the muscles are flabby, and the heart often so soft that the fingers may be made to meet through it. The lungs and liver partake of the disease. The stomach and bowels are pale and empty, and the gall-bladder is distended with bile. These symptoms seem to indicate what is probably the case, a poison in the blood ; the germ of which enters when the proboscis is inserted to draw blood. The poison-germ, contained in a bulb at the root of the proboscis, seems capable, although very minute in quantity, of reproducing itself, for the blood after death by tsetse is very small in quantity, and scarcely stains the hands in dissection. I shall have by and by to mention another insect, which by the same operation produces in the human subject both vomiting and purging. The mule, ass, and goat enjoy the same immunity from the tsetse as man and the game. Many large tribes on the Zambesi can keep no domestic animals except the goat, in consequence of the scourge existing in their country. Our children were frequently bitten, yet suffered no harm ; and we saw around us numbers of zebras, buffaloes, pigs, pallahs and other antelopes, feeding quietly m the very habitat of the tsetse, yet as undis- turbed by its bite as oxen are when they first receive the fatal poison. There is not so much difference in the natures of the horse and zebra, the buffalo and ox, the sheep and antelope, as to afford any satisfactory explanation of the phenomenon. Is a man not as much a domestic animal as a dog ? The curious feature in the case, that dogs perish though fed on milk, whereas the calves escape so long as they continue sucking, made us imagine that the mischief might be produced by some plant in the locahty, and not by tsetse ; but Major Vardon, of the Madras Army, settled that point by riding a horse up to a small hill infested by the insect without allowing him time to graze, and, though he only remained long enough to take a view of the Chap. IV. MEETING WITH SEBITUANE. 83 country and catch some specimens of tsetse on the animal, in ten days afterwards the horse was dead. The well-kno^yn disgust which the tsetse shows to animal excreta, as exhibited when a village is placed in its habitat, has been observed and turned to account by some of the doctors. They mix droppings of animals, human milk, and some medicines together, and smear the animals that are about to pass through a tsetse district ; but this, though it proves a preventive at the time, is not permanent. There is no cure yet known for the disease. A careless herdsman alloA\dng a large number of cattle to wander into a tsetse district loses all except the calves; and Sebituane once lost nearly the entire cattle of his tribe — very many thou- sands— by unwittuigly coming under its influence. Inoculation does not insure immunity, as animals which have been slightly bitten in one year may perish by a greater number of bites in the next ; but it is probable that with the increase of guns the game will perish, as has happened in the south, and the tsetse, deprived of food, may become extinct simultaneously vdth the larger animals. The Makololo whom we met on the Chobe were delighted to see us ; and as their chief Sebituane was about twenty miles do^^Ti the river, Mr. Oswell and I proceeded in canoes to his temporary residence. He had come from the Barotse town of Naliele down to Sesheke as soon as he heard of white men being in search of him, and now came one hundred miles more to bid us welcome into his country. He was upon an island with all his principal men around him, and engaged in singing when we arrived. It was more like church music than the sing-song e e e, se se a?, of the Bechuanas in the south; and they continued the tune for some seconds after we approached. We informed him of the dLffi- culties we had encountered, and how glad we were that they were all at an end by at last reaching his presence. He signified his own joy, and added, " Your cattle are all bitten by the tsetse and will certainly die ; but never mind, I have oxen and will give you as many as you need." We, in our ignorance, then thought that, as so few tsetse had bitten them, no great mischief would follow. He then presented us with an ox and a jar of honey as food, and handed us over to the care of Mahale, who had headed the party to Kolobeng, and would now fain appropriate to himself the whole G 2 84 CAEEEE OF SEBITUANE. Chap. IV. credit of our coming. Prepared skins of oxen as soft as cloth were given to cover us through the night; and as nothing could be returned to this chief, Mahale became the owner of them. Long before it was day, Sebituane came, and sitting do\vn by the fire, which was Kghted for our benefit behind the hedge where we lay, he narrated the difficulties he had himself experienced, when a young man, in crossing that same Desert which we had mastered long afterwards. As he has been most remarkable in his career, and was unquestionably the greatest man in aU that country, a short sketch of his life may prove interesting to the reader. Sebituane' was about forty-five years of age ; of a tall and wiry form, an olive or coffee-and-milk colour, and shghtly bald ; in manner cool and collected, and more frank in his answers than any other chief I ever met. He was the greatest warrior ever heard of beyond the colony, for, unlike Mosilikatse, Dingaan, and others, he always led his men into battle himself. When he saw the enemy he felt the edge of his battle-axe and said, " Aha ! it is sharp, and whoever tui'ns his back on the enemy will feel its edge." So fleet of foot was he, that aU his people knew there was no escape for the coward, as any such would be cut down without mercy. In some instances of skulking, he allowed the individual to return home ; then calling him, he would say, " Ah, you ]3refer dying at home to dying in the field, do you ? You shall have your desire." This was the signal for his immediate execution. He came from the country near the sources of the Likwa and Namagari rivers in the south, so we met him eight hundred or nine hundred miles from his birthplace. He was not the son of a chief, though related closely to the reigning family of the Ba- siitu ; and when in an attack by Sikonyele the tribe was driven out of one part, Sebituane was one in that immense horde of - savages driven back by the Griquas from Kuruman in 1824.* He then fled to the north with an insignificant party of men and cattle. At MeHta the Bangwaketse collected the Bakwains, Bakatla, and Bahurutse, to " eat them up." Placing his men in front, and the women behind the cattle, he routed the whole of his enemies at one blow. Having thus conquered Makdbe, the * See an account of this affair in Moffat's ' Missionary Enterprise in Africa.' Chap. IY. CAREER OF SEBITUANE. 85 chief of the Bangwaketse, he took immediate possession of his town and all his goods. Sebituane subsequently settled at the place called Litubaruba, where Sechele now dwells, and his people suffered severely in one of those um-ecorded attacks by white men, in which murder is committed and materials laid up in the conscience for a futui*e judgment. A great variety of fortune followed him in the northern part of the Bechuana country ; twice he lost all his cattle by the attacks of the Matebele, but always kept his people together, and retook more than he lost.' He then crossed the Desert by nearly the same path that we did. He had captured a guide; and, as it was necessary to travel by night in order to reach water, the guide took advantage of this and gave him the sHp. After marching till morning, and goiQg as they thought right, they found themselves on the trad of the day before. Many of Ins cattle burst away from him in the frenzy of thirst, and rushed back to Serotli, then a large piece of water, and to Mashiie and Lopepe, the habitations of their original OTrVners. He stocked himself again among the Batleth, on Lake Kumadau, whose herds were of the large-horned species of cattle.* Conquering all around the lake, he heard of white men hving at the west coast ; and haunted by what seems to have been the di-eam of his whole life, a desire to have intercourse with the white man, he passed away to the south-west, into the parts opened up lately by Messrs. Galton and Andersson. There, suffering intensely from thirst, he and his party came to a small weU. He decided that the men, not the cattle, should drink it, the former being of most value, as they could fight for more, should these be lost. In the morning they found the cattle had escaped to the Damar^s. Keturning to the north poorer than he started, he ascended the Teoughe to the hill Sorila, and crossed over a swampy countiy to the eastwards. Pursuing his course onwards to the low-lying basin of the Leeambye, he saw that it presented no attraction to * We found the Batauana in possession of this breed when we discovered Lake Ngami. One of these horns, brought to England by Major Vardou, will hold no less than twenty-one imperial pints of water ; and a pair, brought by Mr. Oswell, and now in the possession of Colonel Steele, measures from tip to tip eight and a half feet. 86 CAREER OF SEBITUANE. Chap. IY. a pastoral tribe like Ms, so he moved down that river among the Bashubia and Batoka, who were then living in all their glory. His narrative resembled closely the ' Commentaries of Caesar,' and the history of the British in India. He was always forced to attack the different tribes, and to this day his men justify every step he took, as perfectly just and right. The Batoka hved on large islands in the Leeambye, or Zambesi ; and, feeling perfectly secure in their fastnesses, often allured fugitive or wandering tribes on to uninhabited islets on pretence of ferrying them across, and there left them to perish for the sake of their goods. Sek- omi, the chief of the Bamangwato, was, when a child, in danger of meeting this fate ; but a man still living had compassion on him, and enabled his mother to escape with, him by night. The river is so large, that the sharpest eye cannot teU the difference between an island and the bend of the opposite bank ; but Se- bituane, with his usual foresight, requested the island chief who ferried him across to take his seat in the canoe with him, and detained him by his side till aU his people and cattle were safely landed. The whole Batoka country was then densely peopled, and they had a curious taste for ornamenting their villages with the skulls of strangers. When Sebituane appeared near the great falls, an immense army collected to make trophies of the Mako- lolo skulls ; but instead of succeeding in this they gave him a good excuse for conquering them, and capturing so many cattle that his people were quite incapable of taking any note of the sheep and goats. He overran all the high lands towards the Kafue, and settled in what is called a pastoral country, of gently undulating plains, covered with short grass and but Httle forest. The Mako- lolo have never lost their love for this fine healthy region. But the Matebele, a Caffre or Zulu tribe, under Mosilikatse, crossed the Zambesi ; and, attacking Sebituane in this choice spot, captured his cattle and women. KaUying his men, he followed and recaptured the whole. A fresh attack was also repulsed, and Sebituane thought of going further down the Zambesi, to the country of the white men. He had an idea, whence imbibed I never could learn, that if he had a cannon he might live in peace. He had led a life of war, yet no one apparently desired peace more than he did. A prophet induced him to turn his face again to the westward. This man, by name Tlapane, was called a Chap. IV. A NATIVE PEOPHET. 87 "senoga" — one who holds intercoTirse with the gods. He pro- bably had a touch of insanity, for he was in the habit of retiring no one knew wliither, but perhaps into some cave, to remain in a hypnotic or mesmeric state until the moon was full. Then, re- turning to the tribe quite emaciated, he excited himself, as others do who pretend to the prophetic afflatus, until he was in a state of ecstacy. These pretended prophets commence then operations by violent action of the voluntary muscles. Stamping, leaping, and shouting in a peculiarly violent manner, or beating the ground with a club, they induce a kind of fit, and wliile in it pretend that their utterances are unknown to themselves. Tlapane, pointing- eastwards, said, " There, Sebituane, I behold a fire : shun it ; it is a fire wliich may scorch thee. The gods say, go not thither." Then, turning to the west, he said, " I see a city and a nation of black men — men of the water ; their cattle are red ; thine own tribe, Sebituane, is perisliing, and 'will be all consumed ; thou wilt govern black men, and, when thy waniors have captured red cattle, let not the owners be killed ; they are thy future tribe — they are thy city ; let them be spared to cause thee to build. And thou, Ramosinii, thy village will perish utterly. If Mokari removes from that village he "will perish first, and thou, Ramosinii, \^ilt be the last to die." Concerning himself he added, " The gods have caused other men to drink water, but to me they have given bitter water of the chukuru (rhinoceros). They call me away myself. I cannot stay much longer." This vaticination, which loses much in the translation, I have given rather fully, as it shows an observant mind. The poHcy re- comm ended was wise, and the deaths of the " senoga " and of the two men he had named, added to the destruction of then callage, ha\-ing aU happened soon after, it is not wonderfid that Sebituane followed impHcitly the warning voice. The fire pointed to was evidently the Portuguese fire-arms, of wliich he must have heard. The black men referred to were the Barotse, or, as they term them- selves, Baloiana ; and Sebituane spared their chiefs, even though they attacked him first. He had ascended the Barotse valley, but was pursued by the Matebele, as MosiHkatse never could forgive his former defeats. They came up the river in a very large body. Sebituane placed some goats on one of the large islands of the Zambesi, as a bait to the warriors, and some men in canoes to 88 CAEEEE OF SEBITUANE. Chap. IV. co-operate in the manoeu^Te. When they were all femed over to the island, the canoes were removed, and the Matebele found them- selves completely in a trap, being perfectly unable to swim. They subsisted for some time on the roots of grass after the goats were eaten, but gradually became so emaciated, that, when the Mako- lolo landed, they had only to perform the part of executioners on the adults, and to adopt the rest into their own tribe. After- wards Mosilikatse was goaded on by his warriors to revenge this loss ; so he sent an immense army, carrying canoes with them, in order that no such mishap might occur again. Sebituane had by this time incorporated the Barotse, and taught his young men to manage canoes ; so he went from island to island, and watched the Matebele on the mainland so closely that they could not use their canoes to cross the river anywhere without parting their forces. At last all the Makololo and their cattle were collected on the island of Loyelo ; and lay all around, keeping watch night and day over the enemy. After some time spent ia this way, Sebituane went in a canoe towards them, and, addressing them by an in- terpreter, asked why they wished to kill him; he had never attacked them, never harmed their chief : " Au 1 " he continued, the guilt is on your side." The Matebele made no reply ; but the Makololo next day saw the canoes they had carried so far, lying smashed, and the owners gone. They retm-ned towards their own country, and fever, famine, and the Batoka completed their destruction ; only five men returned to MosHikatse. Sebituane had now not only conquered all the black tribes over an immense tract of country, but had made liimself dreaded even by the terrible Mosihliatse. He never could trust this ferocious chief, however ; and, as the Batoka on the islands had been guilty of ferrying his enemies across the Zambesi, he made a rapid descent upon them, and swept them all out of their island fast- nesses. He thus unwittingly performed a good service to the country, by completely breaking down the old system which pre- vented trade from penetrating into the great central valley. Of the cliiefs who escaped, he said, " They love Mosilikatse, let them live with him : the Zambesi is my line of defence ; " and men were placed all along it as sentinels. Wlien he heard of our wish to visit him, he did all he could to assist our approach. Sechele, Sekomi, and Lechulatebe owed their lives to liis clemency ; and Chap. IV. HIS CHAEACTEE. 89 the latter might have paid dearly for his obstmctiveness. Se- bituane knew everything that happened in the country, for he had the art of gaining the affections both of his own people and of strangers. ^Vhen a party of poor men came to his town to sell their hoes or skins, no matter how ungainly they might be, he soon knew them all. A company of these indigent strangers, sitting far apart from the Makololo gentlemen around the chief, would be surprised to see him come alone to them, and, sitting down, inquire if they were hungry. He would order an attendant to bring meal, milk, and honey, and, mixing them in their sight in order to remove any suspicipn from their minds, make them feast, perhaps for the first time in their Hves, on a lordly dish. DeHghted beyond measure vdth. his affability and hberahty, they felt their hearts warm towards him, and gave him all the information in their power ; and as he never allowed a party of strangers to go away \vithout giving every one of them, servants and all, a present, his praises were sounded far and wide. " He has a heart ! he is wise I " were the usual expressions we heard before we saw him. He was much pleased with the proof of confidence we had sIiotnti in briQging our children, and promised to take us to see his country, so that we might choose a part iu which to locate ourselves. Our plan w^as, that I should remaiu iu the pursuit of my objects as a missionary, while jMr. Oswell explored the Zambesi to the east. Poor Sebituane, however, just after realising what he had so long ardently desired, fell sick of ioflammation of the lungs, which originated in and extended fr-om an old ^ ound, got at Mehta. I saw his danger, but, beiug a stranger, I feared to treat him medi- cally, lest, iu the event of his death, I should be blamed by his people. I mentioned this to one of his doctors, who said, " Your fear is prudent and wise ; this people would blame you." He had been cured of this complaiut duriug the year before by the Barotse making a large number of free iacisions in the chest The Mako- lolo doctors, on the other hand, now scarcely cut the skin. On the Sunday afternoon in which he died, when our usual rehgious service was over, I visited him with my httle boy Eobert. " Come near," said Sebituane, " and see if I am any longer a man ; I am done." He was thus sensible of the dangerous nature of his disease, so I ventured to assent, and added a single sentence re- garding hope after death. " Why do you speak of death ? " said 90 DEATH OF SEBITUAOT. Chap. 1Y. one of a relay of fresli doctors ; " Sebituane ^vill never die." If I had persisted, the impression would have been produced that by speaking about it I wished him to die. After sittuig with him some time, and commenduig him to the mercy of God, I rose to depart, when the dying chieftaia, raising himself up a httle from his prone position, called a servant, and said, " Take Kobert to Maunku (one of his mves), and tell her to give him some milk." These were the last words of Sebituane. We were not informed of his death until the next day. The burial of a Bechuana chief takes place in liis cattle-pen, and all the cattle are driven for an hour or two around and over the grave, so that it may be quite obliterated. We went and spoke to the people, ad^Tsmg them to keep together and support the heir. They took this kindly ; and in turn told us not to be alarmed, for they would not think of ascribing the death of theii* chief to us ; that Sebituane had just gone the way of his fathers ; and though the father had gone, he had left cliildren, and they hoped that we would be as fi'iendly to his children as we intended to have been to himself. He was decidedly the best specimen of a native chief I ever met. I never felt so much grieved by the loss of a black man before ; and it was impossible not to follow him in thought into the world of which he had just heard before he was called away, and to realise somewhat of the feelings of those who pray for the dead. The deep dark question of what is to become of such as he, must, how- ever, be left where we find it, beheving that, assuredly, the " Judge of all the earth ^vLll do right." At Sebituane's death the chieftainship devolved, as her father intended, on a daughter named Ma-mochisane. He had promised to show us his country and to select a suitable locality for our residence. We had now to look to the daughter, who was hving twelve days to the north, at Nahele. We were obhged, therefore, to remain imtU a message came from her ; and when it did she gave us perfect hbeily to visit any part of the country we chose. Mr. Oswell and I then proceeded one hundred and thirty miles to the north-east, to Sesheke ; and in the end of June, 1851, we were rewarded by the discovery of the Zambesi, ia the centre of the contuient. This was a most important point, for that river was not previously knowTi to exist there at all. The Portuguese maps Chap. IV. DISCOVERY OF THE ZAMBESI. 91 all represent it as rising far to the east of where we now were ; and if ever anything like a chain of trading stations had existed across the country between the latitudes 12° and 18° south, this magni- ficent portion of the river must have been kno^vu before. We saw it at the end of the dry season, at the time when the river is about at its lowest, and yet there was a breadth of from three hundred to six hundred yards of deej) flowing water. Mr. Oswell said he had never seen such a fine river, even in India. At the period of its annual inundation it rises fully twenty feet in perpendicular height, and floods fifteen or twenty miles of lands adjacent to its banks. The country over which we had travelled from the Chobe was perfectly flat, except where there were large ant-hills, or the remains of former onesj^ which had left mounds a few feet high. These are generally covered with Avild date-trees and palmyras, and in some parts there are forests of mimosae and mopane. Occasionally the coimtry between the Chobe and Zambesi is flooded, and there are large patches of swamps l}HLtig near the Chobe, or on its banks. The Makololo were livmg among these swamps for the sake of the protection the deep reedy rivers afibrded them against theii' enemies. Now, in reference to a suitable locahty for a settlement for myself, I could not conscientiously ask them to abandon their defences for my convenience alone. The healthy districts were defenceless, and the safe localities were so deleterious to human life, that the original Basutos had nearly all been cut off by the fever ; I therefore feared to subject my family to the scourge. As we were the very first white men the inhabitants had ever seen, we were visited by prodigious numbers. Among the first who came to see us was a gentleman who appeared in a gaudy dressing-gown of printed calico. Many of the Makololo, besides, had garments of blue, green, and red baize, and also of printed cottons ; on inquiry, we learned that these had been pm*chased, in exchange for boys, from a tribe called Mambari, which is situated near Bihe. This tribe began the slave-trade with Sebituane only in 1850, and, but for the unwillingness of Lechulatebe to allow us to pass, we should have been with Sebituane in time to have prevented it from commencing at all. The Mambari visited in ancient times the chief of the Barotse, whom Sebituane con- 92 THE SLAVE-TRADE. Chap. IV. quered, and lie refused to allow any one to sell a cMLd. They never came back again till 1850 ; and as they had a number of old Portuguese guns, marked "Legitime de Braga," which Sebituane thought would be excellent in any future invasion of Matebele, he offered to purchase them with cattle or ivory, but the Mambari refused everything except boys about fourteen years of age. The Makololo declare they never heard of people being bought and sold till then, and disliked it, but the deshe to possess the guns prevailed, and eight old guns were exchanged for as many boys ; these were not their own cliildren, but captives of the black races they had conquered. I have never known in Africa an instance of a parent selling his own offspring. The Makololo were afterwards incited to make a foray against some tribes to the eastward ; the Mambari bargaining to use their guns in the attack for the captives they might take, and the Makololo were to have all the cattle. They went off with at least two hundred slaves that year. During this foray the Makololo met some Arabs from Zanzibar, who presented them vdth three English muskets, and in return received about thirty of their captives. In talking with my companion over these matters, the idea was suggested that, if the slave-market were supphed with articles of European manufacture by legitimate commerce, the trade in slaves would become impossible. It seemed more feasible to give the goods, for which the people now part mth their servants, in exchange for ivory and other products of the country, and thus prevent the trade at the beginning, than try to put a stop to it at any of the subsequent steps. This could only be effected by establishing a highway from the coast into the centre of the country. As there was no hope of the Boers allowing the peaceable instruction of the natives at Kolobeng, I at once resolved to save my family from exposure to this unhealthy region by sendiug them to England, and to return alone, with a view to exploring the country in search of a healthy district that might prove a centre of civilization, and open up the interior by a path to either the east or west coast. This resolution led me down to the Cape iu April, 1852, beiug the first time during eleven years that I had visited the scenes of civilization. Our route to Cape To^vn led us to pass through the centre of the colony during the twentieth Chap. IV. RETURN TO THE CAPE. 93 month of a Caffre war ; and if those who periodically pay enormous sums for these inglorious affairs wish to know how our httle unprotected party could quietly travel through the heart of the colony to the capital, mth as Kttle sense or sign of danger as if we had been in England, they must engage a " Times Special CoiTespondent " for the next outbreak to explain where the money goes, and who have been benefited by the blood and treasure expended. Having placed my family on board a homeward-bound ship and promised to rejoin them in two years, we parted, for, as it subsequently proved, nearly five years. The Directors of the London Missionary Society signified their cordial approval of my project, by leaving the matter entirely to my own discretion; and I have much pleasure in acknowledging my obhgations to the gentlemen composing that body for always acting in an enhghtened spirit, and with as much liberality as their constitu- tion would allow. I have the like pleasure in confessing my thankfulness to the Astronomer Koyal at the Cape, Thomas Maclear, Esq., for enabling me to recall the little astronomical knowledge wliich constant manual labour and the engrossiug nature of missionary duties had effaced from my memory, and in adding much that I did not know before. The promise he made on parting, that he would examine and correct all my observations, had more effect in making me persevere in overcoming the difficulties of an unassisted sohtary observer, than anything else; so whatever credit may be attached to the geographical positions laid doTvoi ia my route, must be attributed to the voluntary aid of the excellent and laborious astronomer of the Cape observatory. Having given the reader as rapid a sketch as possible of events which attracted notice between 1840 and 1852, I now proceed to narrate the incidents of the last and longest journey of all, performed in 1852-6. 94 THE LAST AND LONGEST JOURNEY. CHAr. Y. CHAPTEK V. Start in June, 1852, on the last and longest journey from Cape Town — Companions — Waggon-travelling — Physical divisions of Africa — The eastern, central, and western zones — The Kalahari Desert — Its vegetation — Increasing value of the interior for colonization — Our route — Dutch boers — Their habits — Sterile appearance of the district — Failure of grass — Succeeded by other plants — Yines — Animals — Want of the horse — The horse-sickness — Its effects on wild animals — The boers as farmers — Migi-ation of springbucks — Wariness of animals — The Orange river — Territory of the Griquas and Bechuanas — The Gri- quas — The chief Waterboer — His wise and energetic government — His fidelity — Ill-considered measures of the colonial government in re- gard to supplies of gunpowder — Success of the missionaries among the Griquas and Bechuanas — Manifest improvement of the native character — Dress of the natives — A full-dress costume — A native's description of the natives — Articles of commerce in the country of the Bechuanas — Their unwillingness to learn, and readiness to criticise. Having sent my family home to England, I started, in the beginning of June 1852, on my last jonrney from Cape Town. This journey extended from the southern extremity of the conti- nent to St. Paul de Loando, the capital of Angola, on the west coast, and thence across South Central A^frica in an oblique direction to Kilimane (Quilimane) in Eastern Africa. I proceeded in the usual conveyance of the country, the heavy lumbering Cape waggon drawn by ten oxen, and was accompanied by two Christian Bechuanas from Kuruman, — than whom I never saw better servants anj^diere, — by two Bakwain men, and two young girls, who, having come as nurses with our children to the Cape, were returning to their home at Kolobeng. Waggon-travelling in Africa has been so often described, that I need say no more than that it is a prolonged system of picnicking, excellent for the health, and agreeable to those who are not over fastidious about trifles, and who dehght in being in the open air. Our route to the north lay near the centre of the cone-shaped mass of land which constitutes the promontory of the Cape. If we suppose tliis cone to be divided into three zones or longitudinal bands, we find each presenting distinct peculiarities of cKmate, Chap. V. NATURAL DIVISIONS OF AFRICA. 95 physical appearance, and population. Tliese are more marked beyond than witliin the colony. At some points one district seems to be continued in and to merge into the other, but the general dissimilarity warrants the division, as an aid to memory. The eastern zone is often furnished with mountains, well wooded with evergreen succulent trees, on which neither fire nor droughts can have the smallest effect (^Strelitzia, Zamia liorrida, Portula- earia afra, Schotia speciosa, Uuphoj'bias, and Aloes arhorescens) ; and its seaboard gorges are clad with gigantic timber. It is also comparatively well watered with streams and flomng rivers. The annual supply of rain is considerable, and the inhabitants (Caffres or Zulus) are tall, muscular, and well made ; they are shrewd, energetic, and brave ; altogether they merit the cha- racter given them by military authorities, of being " magnificent savages." Their splendid physical development and form of skull show that, but for the black skin and woolly hair, they would take rank among the foremost Europeans. The next division, that which embraces the centre of the continent, can scarcely be called hilly, for what liills there are are very low. It consists for the most part of extensive, shghtly undulating plains. There are no lofty mountains, but few springs, and still fewer flowing streams. Kain is far from abundant, and droughts may be expected every few years. Without artificial irrigation no Em^opean grain can be raised, and the mhabitants (Bechuanas), though evidently of the same stock, originally, with those abeady mentioned, and closely resembling them m being an agricultural as well as a pastoral people, are a comparatively timid race, and inferior to the Caffres in physical development. The western division is still more 'level than the middle one, being rugged only near the coast. It includes the great plain called the Kalahari Desert, wliich is remarkable for Httle water and very considerable vegetation. The reason probably why so little rain falls on tliis extensive plain is, that the prevailing winds of most of the interior country are easterly, with a httle southing. The moisture taken up by the atmosphere from the Indian ocean is deposited on the eastern hilly slope ; and, when the moving mass of an- reaches its greatest elevation, it is then on the verge of the great valley, or, as in the case of the Kalahari, the great heated inland plains ; 96 ABSENCE OF EAIN — VEGETATION. Chap. V. there, meeting vdih the rarefied air of that hot dry smface, the ascending heat gives it greater capacity for retaining all its re- maining humidity, and few showers can be given to the middle and western lands in consequence of the increased hygrometric power. This is the same phenomenon, on a gigantic scale, as that which takes place on Table Mountain, at the Cape, in what is called the spreading of "the table-cloth." The south-east wind causes a mass of air, equal to the diameter of the mountain, sud- denly to ascend at least three thousand feet ; the dilatation pro- duced by altitude, ^\ith its attendant cold, causes the immediate formation of a cloud on the summit ; the water in the atmosphere becomes \Tsible ; successive masses of ghding-up and passing-over air cause the continual formation of clouds, but the top of the vapoury mass, or " table-cloth," is level, and seemingly motion- less ; on the lee side, however, the thick volimies of vapour curl over and descend, but when they reach the point below, where greater density and higher temperatm-e impart enlarged capacity for carrying water, they entirely disappear. Now if, instead of a hollow on the lee side of Table Mountain, we had an elevated heated plain, the clouds which cmi over that side, and disappear as they do at present when a " south-easter " is blowing, might deposit some moisture on the windward ascent and top ; but the heat would then impart the increased capacity the air now receives at the lower level in its descent to leeward, and instead of an extended country mth a flora of the Disa grandiflora, gladiolus, rushes^ and lichens, which now appear on Table Mountain, we should have only the hardy vegetation of the Kalahari. "VMiy there should be so much vegetation on the Kalahari may be explained by the geological formation of the country. There is a lim or fringe of ancient rocks round a great central vaUey, which, dipping inwards, form a basin, the bottom of which is composed of the oldest sHurian rocks. This basin has been burst through and filled up in many parts by eruptive traps and breccias, which often bear in their substances angular frag- ments of the more ancient rocks, as shown in the fossils they contain. Now, though large areas have been so dislocated that but httle trace of the original valley formation appears, it is Chap. Y. COLOiTIZATION OF mTEKIOR DISTRICTS, 97 highly probable that the basm shape prevails over large tracts of the country ; and as the strata on the slopes, where most of the rain falls, dip in towards the centre, they probably guide water beneath the plains but ill supplied ^vith moisture from the clouds. The phenomenon of stagnant fountains becoming by a new and deeper outlet never-failing streams may be confirmatory of the view that water is conveyed from the sides of the country into the bottom of the central vaUey ; and it is not beyond the bounds of possibility that the wonderful river system in the north, which, if native information be correct, causes a considerable increase of water in the springs (Called Matlomagan-yana (the Lmks), extends its fertilising influence beneath the plains of the Kalahari. The pecuHar formation of the country may explain why there is such a difference in the vegetation between the 20th and 30th parallels of latitude in South Afr-ica and the same latitudes in Central Australia. The want of vegetation is as true of some parts too in the centre of South America as of Austraha ; and the cause of the difference holds out a probabihty for the success of artesian wells in extensive tracts of Africa now unpeopled solely on account of the want of surface water. We may be allowed to speculate a little at least on the fact of much greater vegetation, which, from whatever som-ce it comes, presents for South Africa prospects of future greatness which we cannot hope for in Central Austraha. As the interior districts of the Cape colony are daily becoming of higher value, offering to honest industry a fair remuneration for capital, and ha^Tug a climate unequalled in salubrity for con- sumptive patients, I should unhesitatingly recommend any farmer at aU afraid of that complaint in liis family to try tliis colony. With the means of education already possessed, and the onward and upward movement of the Cape population, he need entertain no apprehensions of his family sinkmg into barbarism. The route we at this time followed ran along the middle, or skh'ted the western zone before alluded to, until we reached the latitude of Lake Xgami, where a totally different country begins. While in the colony, we passed through districts inhabited by the descendants of Dutch and French refugees who had fled from rehgious persecution. Those h\ing near the capital differ but little from the middle classes in EngKsh counties, and are dis- tinguished by pubhc spirit and general intelligence ; while those H 98 DUTCH AND FKENCH BOERS. Chap. V. situated far from the centres of civilization are less informed, but are a body of frugal, industrious, and hospitable peasantry. A most efficient system of public instruction was established in the time of Governor Su- George Napier, on a plan drawn up in a great measure by that accomplished philosopher, Sir John Herschel. The system had to contend with less sectarian rancour than elsewhere ; indeed, until quite recently, that spirit, except in a mild form, was unknown. The population here described ought not to be confounded with some Boers who fled from British rule on account of the emanci- pation of their Hottentot slaves, and perhaps never would have been so, had not every now and then some Rip Van AVinkle started forth at the Cape to justify in the pubHc prints the deeds of blood and slave-hunting in the far interior. It is therefore not to be wondered at if the whole race is confounded and held in low estimation by those who do not know the real composition of the Cape community. Population among the Boers increases rapidly; they marry soon, are seldom sterile, and continue to have children late. I once met a worthy matron, whose husband thought it right to imitate the conduct of Abraham while Sarah was barren ; she evidently agreed in the propriety of the measure, for she was pleased to hear the children by a mother of what has been thought an inferior race address her as their mother. Oi'jDhans ai'e never allowed to remain long destitute ; and instances are frequent in which a tender-hearted farmer has adopted a fatherless child, and when it came of age has portioned it as his own. Two centuries of the South African chmate have not had much effect upon the physical condition of the Boers. They are a shade darker, or rather ruddier, than Europeans, and are never cadaverous-looking, as descendants of Europeans are said to be elsewhere. There is a tendency to the development of steatopyga, so characteristic of Arabs and other African tribes; and it is probable that the interior Boers in another century will become in colom* what the learned imagine our progenitors Adam and Eve to have been. The parts of the colony tlu'ough which we passed were of sterile aspect ; and as the present winter had been preceded by a severe drought, many farmers had lost two-thirds of their stock. Chap. V. FAILURE OF GRASS — NEW PLANTS. 99 The landscape was uninviting ; the hills, destitute of trees, were of a dark-brown colour, and the scanty vegetation on the plains made me feel that they deserved the name of Desert more than the Kalahari. When first taken possession of, these parts are said to have been covered with a coating of grass, but that has disappeared with the antelopes which fed upon it, and a crop of mesembryanthemums and crassulas occupies its place. It is curious to observe how, in nature, organizations the most dissimilar are mutually dependent on each other for then* perpetuation. Here the original grasses were dependent for dissemination on the grass-feeding animals, wliich scattered the seeds. Wlien, by the death of the antelopes, no fresh sowing was made, the African droughts proved too much for this form of vegetation. But even this contuigency was foreseen by the Omniscient One ; for, as we may now observe in the Kalahari Desert, another family of 23lants, the mesembryanthemums, stood ready to neutralize the aridity which must otherwise have followed. This family of plants pos- sesses seed-vessels which remain firmly shut on theu' contents while the soil is hot and dry, and thus preserve the vegetative power intact during the highest heat of the torrid sun ; but when rain falls, the seed-vessel opens and sheds its contents just when there is the greatest probability of their vegetating. In other plants heat and drought cause the seed-vessels to burst, and shed then- charge. One of this family is edible {Mesemhryanthemum edule) ; another possesses a tuberous root, which may be eaten raw ; and aU are furnished mth thick fleshy leaves, ha^^ng pores capable of im- bibing and retaining moistm-e from a very dry atmosphere and soil, so that, if a leaf is broken dimng a period of the greatest drought, it shows abundant circulating sap. The plants of .this family are found much further north, but the great abundance of the grasses prevents them from making any show. There, however, they stand, ready , to fiU up any gap which may occur in the present prevailing vegetation; and should the grasses dis- appear, animal life would not necessarily be destroyed, because a reserve supply, equivalent to a fresh act of creative power, has been provided. One of tliis family, M. turbiniforme, is so coloured as to blend in well with the hue of the soil and stones around it; and a H 2 100 DESERT VEGETATION. Chap. V. gryllus of the same colour feeds on it. In the case of the insect, the peculiar colour is given as compensation for the deficiency of the powers of motion to enable it to elude the notice of birds. The continuation of the species is here the end in view. In the case of the plant the same device is adopted for a sort of double end, viz. perpetuation of the plant by hiding it from ammals with the view that ultimately its extensive appearance will sustain that race. As this new vegetation is better adapted for sheep and goats in a dry country than grass, the Boers supplant the latter by imi- tating the process by which gramnivorous antelopes have so abundantly disseminated the seed of grasses. A few waggon- loads of mesembryanthemum-plants, in seed, are brought to a farm covered with a scanty crop of coarse grass, and placed on a spot to which the sheep have access in the evenings. As they eat a Httle every night, the seeds are dropped over the grazing grounds, in this simple way, with a regularity which could not be matched except at the cost of an immense amount of labour. The place becomes in the course of a few years a sheep farm, as these animals thrive on such herbage. As already mentioned, some plants of this family are fui-nished with an additional con- trivance for withstanding di'oughts, viz. oblong tubers, which, buried deep enough beneath the soil for complete protection from the scorching sun, serve as reservoirs of sap and nutriment during those rainless periods which recur perpetually in even the most favom-ed spots of Africa. I have adverted to this pecuharity as often seen in the vegetation of the Desert ; and, though rather out of place, it may be weU, — wliile noticing a clever imitation of one process in nature by the Cape farmers, — to suggest another , for their consideration. The country beyond south lat. 18° abounds in tln-ee varieties of grape-bearing vines; and one of these is furnished mth oblong tubers every three or four inches along the horizontal root. They resemble closely those of the asparagus. This increase of power to withstand the effects of chmate might prove of value in the more arid parts of the Cape colony, grapes being well known to be an excellent restorative in ■ the debihty produced by heat; by engrafting, or by some of those curious manipulations wliich w^e read of in books on garden- ing, a variety might be secured better adapted to the country | than the foreign vines at present cultivated. The Americans ( Chap. V. ANIMALS OF THE DESERT. 101 find tliat some of their native vines yield wines superior to those made from the very best imported vines from France and Por- tugal. Wliat a boon a vine of the sort contemplated would have been to a Khenish missionary I met at a part in the west of the colony called Ebenezer, whose children had never seen flowers, though old enough to talk about them ! The slow pace at which we wound our way tlirough the colony made almost any subject interesting. The attention is attracted to the names of different places, because they indicate the former existence of buffaloes, elands, and elephants, which are now to be found only hundreds of miles beyond. A few blesbucks (Antilope pygarga), gnus, bluebucks (^. cerwZea), steinbucks, and the ostrich {Struthio camelus), continue, like the Bushmen, to maintain a pre- carious existence when aU the rest are gone. The elephant, the most sagacious, flees the sound of firearms first ; the gnu and os- trich, the most wary and the most stupid, last. The first emigrants found the Hottentots in possession of prodigious herds of fine cattle, but no horses, asses, or camels. The original cattle, which may still be seen in some parts of the frontier, must have been brought south from the north-north-east, for from this point the natives universally ascribe their original migration. They brought cattle, sheep, goats, and dogs : why not the horse, the delight of savage hordes ? Horses thrive well in the Cape colony when im- ported. Naturalists point out certain mountain ranges as limiting the habitat of certain classes of animals ; but there is no Cordillera in Africa to answer that purpose, there being no visible barrier between the north-eastern Arabs and the Hottentot tribes to pre- vent the different hordes, as they felt their way southwards, from indulging their taste for the possession of this noble animal. I am here led to notice an invisible barrier, more insurmount- able than mountain ranges, but which is not opposed to the southern progress of cattle, goats, and sheep. The tsetse would prove a barrier only until its well-defined habitat was known, but the disease passing under the term of horse-sickness {peripneumonia) exists in such vkulence over nearly seven degrees of latitude, that no precaution would be sufficient to save these animals. The horse is so liable to this disease, that only by great care in stabhng can he be kept anywhere between 20° and 27° S. during the time between December and April. The winter, beginning in the 102 HORSE-SICKNESS. Chap. V. latter montli, is the only period in wMch Englislimen can hunt on horseback, and they are in danger of losing all their studs some months before December. To tliis disease the horse is espe- cially exposed, and it is almost always fatal. One attack, however, seems to seciu'e immunity fi'om a second. Cattle, too, are subject to it, but only at intervals of a few, sometimes many, years ; but it never makes a clean sweep of the whole cattle of a village, as it would do of a troop of fifty horses. This barrier, then, seems to explain the absence of the horse among the Hottentots, though it is not opposed to the southern migration of cattle, sheep, and goats. When the flesh of animals that have died of this disease is eaten, it causes a mahgnant carbimcle ; Avliich, when it appears over any important organ, proves rapidly fatal. It is more especially dangerous over the pit of the stomach. The effects of the poison have been experienced by missionaries who had eaten properly cooked food, the flesh of sheep really but not visibly affected by the disease. The virus in the flesh of the animal is de- stroyed neither by boiling nor roasting. This fact, of which we have had innumerable examples, shows the superiority of experiments on a large scale to those of acute and able physiologists and chemists in the laboratory, for a well-known physician of Pai'is, after careful investigation, considered that the virus in such cases was completely neutrahzed by boiling. This disease attacks wild animals too. During our residence at Chonuane great numbers of tolos, or koodoos, were attracted to the gardens of the Bakwains, abandoned at the usual j)eriod of harvest because there was no prospect of the corn {Solcus sorghum) bearing that year. The koodoo is remarkably fond of the green stalks of this kind of millet. Free feeding produced that state of fatness favourable for the development of the disease, and no fewer than twenty-five died on the liill opposite om- house. Great numbers of gnus and zebras perished from the same cause, but the moi'tahty produced no sensible diminution in the numbers of the game, any more than the deaths of many of the Bakwains who persisted, in spite of every remonstrance, in eating the dead meat, caused any sensible decrease in the strength of the tribe. The farms of the Boers consist generally of a small patch of cultivated land in the midst of some miles of pastm-age. They are thus less an agricultural than a pastoral people. Each farm Chap. V. THE BOERS AS FARMERS. 103 must have its fountain ; and where no such supply of water exists, the government lands are unsaleable. An acre in England is thus generally more valuable than a square mile in Africa. But the country is prosperous and capable of great imj)rovement. The industry of the Boers augm-s well for the future formation of dams and tanks, and for the greater fruitfulness that would certainly follow. As cattle and sheep farmers the colonists are very successful. Larger and larger quantities of wool are produced annually, and the value of colonial farms increases year by year. But the system requires that with the increase of the population there should be an extension of territory. Wide as the country is, and thinly inhabited, the farmers feel it to be too limited, and they are gradually spreading to the north. This movement proves prejudicial to the coimtry behind, for labour, which would be directed to the improvement of the colony, is "^ithdi-a^vn and expended in a mode of life httle adapted to the exercise of in- dusti'ial habits. That, however, does not much concern the rest of mankind. Nor does it seem much of an evil for men who culti- vate the soil to claim a right to appropriate lands for tillage which other men only hunt over, provided some comj)ensation for the loss of sustenance be awarded. The original idea of a title seems to liave been that " subduing " or cultivating gave that right. But tliis rather Chartist principle must be received wiih. limitations ; for its recognition in England would lead to the seizure of aU our broad ancestral acres by those who are willing to cultivate them. And, in the case imder consideration, the encroaclmients lead at once to less land being put under the plough than is subjected to the native hoe, for it is a fact that the Basutos and Zulus, or Caffres of Natal, cultivate largely, and undersell our farmers wherever they have a fair field and no favour. Before we came to the Orange river we saw the last portion of a migration of springbucks {G-azella euchore, or tsepe). They come fi'om the great Kalahari Desert, and, when first seen after crossing the colonial boundary, are said often to exceed forty thousand in nmnber. I cannot give an estimate of their numbers, for they appear spread over a vast expanse of country, and make a quivering motion as they feed and move and toss their graceful horns. They feed chiefly on grass ; and as they 104 MIORATION OF SPRINGBUCKS. Chap. Y. come from the north about the time when the grass most abounds, it cannot be want of food that prompts the movement. Nor is it want of water, for this antelope is one of the most abstemious in that resj^ect. Then- nature prompts them to seek as their favourite haunts level plains with short grass, where they may be able to watch the approach of an enemy. The Bakalahari take advantage of this feeling, and burn off large patches of grass, not only to attract the game by the new crop when it comes up, but also to form bare spots for the springbuck to range over. It is not the springbuck alone that manifests this feeling. When oxen are taken into a country of high grass, they are much more ready to be startled ; their sense of danger is in- creased by the increased power of concealment afforded to an enemy by such cover, and they will often start off in terror at the ill-defined outhnes of each other. The S23ringbuck, possessing this feelhig in an intense degree, and being eminently gregarious, becomes uneasy as the grass of the Kalahari becomes tall. The vegetation being more sparse m the more arid south, naturally induces the different herds to turn in that dii-ection. As they advance and increase in numbers, the pasturage becomes more scarce ; it is still more so the fm-ther they go, until they are at last obhged, in order to obtain the means of subsistence, to cross the Orange river, and become the pest of the sheep-farmer in a country wliich contains scarcely any of their favourite grassy food. If they Hght on a field of wheat in their way, an army of locusts could not make a cleaner sweep of the whole than they will do. It is questionable whether they ever return, as they have never been seen as a returning body. Many perish from want of food, the country to which they have migrated being unable to support them ; the rest become scattered over the colony ; and in such a ^^dde country there is no lack of room for all. It is probable that, notmthstanding the continual destruction by firearms, they will continue long to hold their place. On crossing the Orange river we come into independent ter- ritory inhabited by Griquas and Bechuanas. By Griquas is meant any mixed race S2:>rung fi'om natives and Europeans. Those in question were of Dutch extraction, through association with Hottentot and Bushwomen. Half-castes of the first genera- tion consider themselves superior to those of the second, and aU Chap. V. THE GRIQUA CHIEF WATEEBOER. 105 possess in some degree the characteristics of botli parents. They were governed for many years by an elected chief named Water- boer ; who, by treaty, received a small sum per annum from the Colonial Government for the support of schools in liis country, and proved a most efficient guard of our north-west boundary. Cattle-stealing was totally unknown dm-ing the whole period of tliis able chief's reign ; and he actually drove back, single-handed, a formidable force of marauding Mantatees that threatened to invade the colony.* But for that brave Christian man, Water- boer, there is every human probabihty that the north-west would have given the colonists as much trouble as the eastern frontier ; for large numbers among the original Griquas had as Httle scruple about robbing farmers of cattle as the Caffres are reputed to have. On the election of Waterboer to the chieftainship, he distinctly declared that no marauding should he alloived. As the govern- ment of none of these tribes is despotic, some of his principal men, in spite of this declaration, plundered some villages of Corannas Kving to the south of the Orange river. He immediately seized six of the ringleaders, and, though the step put his own position in jeopardy, he summoned his council, tried, condemned, and pubHcly executed the whole six. This produced an insurrection, and the insurgents twice attacked his capital, Griqua Town, ^dth the intention of deposing liim ; but he bravely defeated both attempts, and from that day forth, during his long reign of thirty years, not a single plundering expedition ever left his territory. Having witnessed the deleterious effects of the introduction of ardent spirits among his people, he, ^rith characteristic energy, decreed that any Boer or Griqua bringing brandy into the coun- try should have his property in ardent spirits confiscated and poured out on the ground. The Griqua chiefs living farther east were imable to carry this law into effect as he did, hence the greater facihty with wliich Boers in that direction got the Griquas to part with then' farms. Ten years after he was firmly established in power he entered into a treaty with the Colonial Government ; and, during the twenty years which followed, not a single charge was ever brought against either liim or his people; on the contrary, his faitliful * For an account of this see Moffat's ' Scenes and Labours in South Africa.' 106 MEASURES OF COLONIAL GOVERNMENT. Chap. Y. adherence to tlie stipulated provisions elicited numerous ex- pressions of approbation from successive governments. A late Governor, however, of whom it is impossible to speak without respect, in a paroxysm of generalship which might have been good, had it not been totally inappropriate to the case, set about conciliating a band of rebellious British subjects (Boers), who murdered the Hon. Captain Murray, by proclaiming their inde- ]3endence while still in oj)en rebellion, and not only abrogated the treaty with the Griquas, but engaged to stop the long- accustomed supphes of gunpowder for the defence of the frontier, and even to prevent them fr-om purchasing it for their own defence by lawful trade. If it had been necessary to prevent supphes of ammunition from finding theh way into the country, as it probably was, one might imagine that the exception should not have been made in favour of either Boers or Calfres, our openly avowed enemies ; but nevertheless the exception was made, and is still continued in favom- of the Boers, while the Bechuanas and Griquas, our constant friends, are debarred fr'om obtaining a single ounce for either defence or trade ; indeed, such was the state of ignorance as to the relation of the border tribes vdth. the English, even at Cape Tomi, that the magistrates, though willing to aid my researches, were sorely afr'aid to alloAV me to purchase more than ten pounds of gunpowder, lest the Bechuanas should take it from me by force. As it turned out, I actually left more than that quantity for upwards of two years in an open box in my waggon at Liiiyanti. The lamented Sir George Cathcart, apparently unconscious of what he was doing, entered into a treaty with the Transvaal Boers, LQ which articles were introduced for the free passage of English traders to the north, and for the entire prohibition of slavery in the fr'ee state. Then passed the " gunpowder ordinance," by which the Bechuanas, whom alone the Boers dare attempt to enslave, were rendered quite defenceless. The Boers never attempt to fight with Caffires, nor to settle in Caffreland. We still con- tiaue to observe the treaty — the Boers never did, and never intended to abide by its provisions, for immediately on the proclamation of their independence a slave-hunt was undertaken against the Bechuanas of Sechele by fom- hundred Boers, under Mr. Peit Scholz, and the plan was adopted which had been che- Chap. V. SUCCESS OF MISSIONARIES. 107 rished in their hearts ever since the emancipation of the Hottentots. - Thus, from unfortunate ignorance of the country he had to govern, an able and sagacious governor adopted a policy proper and wise had it been in front of our enemies, but altogether inappropriate for our fi'iends against whom it has been apphed. Such an error could not have been committed by a man of local knowledge and experience, such as that noble of colonial birth, Sir Andi'ies Stockenstrom ; and such instances of confounding friend and foe, in the innocent beHef of thereby promoting colonial interests, will probably lead the Cape community, the chief part of which by no means feels its interest to He in the degradation of the native tribes, to assert the right of choosing their own governors. This, with colonial representation in the Imperial Parhament, in addi- tion to the local self-government akeady so Hberally conceded, would undoubtedly secure the perpetual union of the colony to the En2:Ush Crown. Many hundreds of both Griquas and Bechuanas have become Christians and partially civilized through the teaching of Enghsh missionaries. My first impressions of the progress made were, that the accounts of the effects of the Gospel among them had been too higlily coloured. I expected a liigher degree of Cln-istian simphcity and purity than exists either among them or among ourselves. I was not anxious for a deeper insight in detecting shams than others, but I expected character, such as we imagine the primitive disciples had — and was disappointed.* When, how- ever, I passed on to the true heathen in the countries beyond the * The popular notion, however, of the primitive church is perhaps not very accurate. Those societies especially which consisted of converted Gentiles — men who had been accustomed to the vices and immoralities of heathenism — were certainly anything but pure. In spite of their conversion, some of them carried the stains and vestiges of their former state with them Avhen they passed from the temple to the church. If the instructed and civilised Greek did not all at once rise out of his former self, and understand and realise the high ideal of his new faith, we should be careful, in judging of the work of missionaries among savage tribes, not to apply to their converts tests and stand- ards of too great severity. If the scoffing Lucian's account of the impostor Peregrinus may be believed, we find a church probably planted by the Apostles manifesting less intelligence even than modern missionary churches. Pere- grinus, a notoriously wicked man, was elected to the chief place among them, while Romish priests, backed by the power of France, could not find a place at all in the mission churches of Tahiti and Madagascar. 108 DEESS OF THE NATIVES. Chap. V. sphere of missionary influence, and could compare tlie people there with the Christian natives, I came to the conclusion that, if the question were examined in the most rigidly severe or scientific Avay, the change effected by the missionary movement would be considered unquestionably great. We cannot faMy compare these poor people mth ourselves, who have an atmosphere of Christianity and enlightened pubKc opinion, the growth of centui'ies, around us, to influence our deportment ; but let any one from the natural and proper point of view behold the pubKc morahty of Griqua Town, Kuruman, Likatlong, and other villages, and remember what even London was a century ago, and he must confess that the Christian mode of treating aborigines is incomparably the best. The Griquas and Bechuanas were in former times clad much like the Caffres, if such a word may be used where there is scarcely any clothing at all. A bunch of leather strings about eighteen inches long hung from the lady's waist in front, and a prepared skin of a sheep or antelope covered the shoulders, leaving the breast and abdomen bare : the men wore a patch of skin, about the size of the crown of one's hat, which barely served for the purposes of decency, and a mantle exactly like that of the women. To assist in protecting the pores of the skin from the influence of the sun by day and of the cold by night, all smeared themselves with a mixture of fat and ochre; the head was anointed with pounded blue mica schist mixed with fat ; and the fine particles of shining mica falling on the body and on strings of beads and brass rings were considered as higlily orna- mental and fit for the most fastidious dandy. Now, these same people come to church in decent though poor clothing, and behave with a decorum certainly superior to what seems to have been the case in the time of Mr. Samuel Pepys in London. Sunday is well observed, and, even in localities where no missionary lives, rehgious meetings are regularly held, and children and adults taught to read, by the more advanced of their own fellow- countrymen ; and no one is allowed to make a profession of faith by baptism unless he knows how to read, and understands the nature of the Christian religion. The Bechuana Mission has been so far successful that, when coming from the interior, we always felt on reaching Kuruman Chap. V. AETICLES OF COMMEKCE. 109 that we had returned to civilized life. But I would not give any one to understand by this that they are model Cln-istians — we cannot claim to be model Christians ourselves — or even in any degree superior to the members of our own country churches. They are more stingy and greedy than the poor at home ; but in many respects the two are exactly alike. On asking an inteUigent chief what he thought of them, he replied, " You white men have no idea of how Avicked we are ; we know each other better than you; some feign belief to ingratiate themselves Avith the mis- sionaries ; some profess Cliristianity because they like the new system, which gives so much more importance to the poor, and desire that the old system may pass away ; and the rest — a pretty large number — profess, because they are really true believers." Tliis testimony may be considered as very nearly correct. There is not much prospect of this country ever producing much of the materials of commerce except wool. At present the chief articles of trade are karosses or mantles — the skins of which they are composed come from the Desert ; next to them ivory, the quantity of which cannot now be great, inasmuch as the means of shooting elephants is sedulously debarred entrance into the country. A few skins and horns, and some cattle, make up the remainder of the exports. Enghsh goods, sugar, tea, and coffee are the articles received in exchange. All the natives of these parts soon become remarkably fond of coffee. The acme of respectability among the Bechuanas is the possession of cattle and a waggon. It is remarkable that, though these latter require frequent repans, none of the Bechuanas have ever learned to mend them. Forges and tools have been at theit* service, and teachers willing to aid them, but, beyond putting together a camp-stool, no effort has ever been made to acqmre the know- ledge of the trades. They observe most carefully a missionary at work, until they understand whether a tire is well welded or not, and then pronounce upon its merits with great emphasis, but there their ambition rests satisfied. It is the same peculiarity among ourselves which leads us in other matters, such as book- making, to attain the excellence of fault-finding mthout the wit to indite a page. It was in vain I tried to mdoctriiiate the Bechuanas with the idea that criticism did not imply any supe- riority over the workman, or even equahty with him. 110 KUEUMAN: ITS FOUNTAIN. Chap. YI. CHAPTEE YI. KuiTiman — Its fine fountain — Vegetation of the district — Eemains of ancient forests — Vegetable poison — The Bible translated by Mr. Moffat — Capabilities of the language — Christianity among the natives — The Missionaries should extend their labours more beyond the Cape Colony — Model Christians — Disgraceful attack of the Boers on the Bakwains — Letter from Sechele — Details of the attack — Numbers of school children carried away into slavery — Destruction of house and property at Kolobeng — The Boers vow vengeance against me — Consequent difiS- culty of getting servants to accompany me on my journey — Start in November, 1852 — Meet Sechele on his way to England to obtain redress from the Queen — He is unable to proceed beyond the Cape — Meet Mr. Macabe on his return from Lake Ngami — The hot wind of the Desert — Electric state of the atmosphere — Flock of swifts — Eeach Litubaruba — The cave Lepelole — Superstitions regarding it — Impove- rished state of the Bakwains — Eetaliation on the Boers — Slavery — Attachment of the Bechuanas to children — Hydrophobia unknown — Diseases of the Bakwains few in number — Yearly epidemics — Hasty burials — Ophthalmia — Native doctors — Knowledge of surgery at a very low ebb — Little attendance given to women at their confinements — The "child medicine" — Salubrity of the climate well adapted for invalids suffering from pulmonary complaints. The permanence of tlie station called Knruman depends entirely on tlie fine ever-flomng fountain of that name. It comes from beneath the trap-rock, of which I shall have to speak when de- scribing the geology of the entire country ; and as it usually issues at a temperatm-e of 72° Falir., it probably comes from the old Silurian schists, which formed the bottom of the great primaeyal yaUey of the continent. I could not detect any diminution in the flow of this gushing fountain durmg my residence in the country ; but when Mr. Moffat first attempted a settlement here, thirty-fiye years ago, he made a dam six or seyen miles below the present one, and led out the stream for uTigation, where not a drop of the fountain-water eyer now flows. Other parts, fourteen miles below the Kuruman gardens, are pointed out as haying contained, Tvithin the memory of people now Hying, hippopotami, and pools sufficient to droTO both men and cattle. This failure of water must be cliiefly ascribed to the general desiccation of the country, but Chap. VI. ATTEMPTS TO OBTAIN WATEE. Ill partly also to the amount of irrigation carried on along botli banks of the stream at the mission station. Tliis latter circumstance would have more weight, were it not coincident with the failui-e of fountains over a mde extent of country. Without at present entering minutely into this feature of the chmate, it may be remarked that the Kuruman district presents evidence of this dry southern region having, at no very distant date, been as well watered as the country north of Lake Ngami is now. Ancient river-beds and water-courses abound, and the very eyes of fountains long since dried up may be seen, in which the flow of centm'ies has worn these orifices from a sht to an oval form, having on their sides the tufa so abmidantly deposited from these primitive waters ; and just where the splashings, made when the stream feU on the rock below, may be supposed to have reached and become evaporated, the same phenomenon appears. Many of these faiHng fountains no longer flow, because the brink over which they ran is now too high, or because the elevation of the western side of the country hfts the land away from the water- supply below ; but let a cutting be made from a lower level than the brink, and through it to a part below the siu-face of the water, and water flows perennially. Several of these ancient fountains have been resuscitated by the Bechuanas near Kuruman, who occasionally show then* feelings of self-esteem by laboiu'ing for .months at deep cuttings, which, having once begun, they feel bound in honour to persevere in, though told by a missionary that they can never force water to run up liill. It is interesting to observe the industry of many Boers in this region, in making long and deep canals from lower levels up to spots destitute of the shglitest indication of water existing beneath, except a few rushes and a pecuHar kind of coarse reddish-coloiu-ed grass grooving in a hollow, which anciently must have been the eye of a fountain, but is now filled up with soft tufa. In other instances the indication of water below consists of the rushes growing on a long sandy ridge a foot or two in height, instead of in a furrow. A deep transverse cutting made through 'the liigher part of tliis is rewarded by a stream of running water. The reason why the ground covering this water is liigher than the rest of the locahty is, that the vdnds carry quantities of fine dust and sand about the country, and hedges, bushes, and trees cause its deposit. 112 VEGETATION. Chap. YI. The rushes in tliis case perform the part of the hedges, and the moisture rising as dew by night fixes the sand securely among the roots, and a height instead of a hollow is the result. While on this subject it may be added, that there is no perennial fountain in this part of the country, except those wliich come from beneath the quartzose trap, which constitutes the " filhng up " of the ancient valley ; and as the water-supply seems to rest on the old Silurian schists which form its bottom, it is highly probable that Artesian wells would in several places perform the part which these deep cuttings now do. The aspect of tliis part of the country dming most of the year is of a hght yellow colom* ; for some months dm-mg the rainy season it is of a pleasant green mixed with yellow. Ranges of hills appear in the west, but east of them we find hundreds of miles of grass-covered plains. Large patches of these flats are covered with white calcareous tufa resting on perfectly horizontal strata of trap. There the vegetation consists of fine grass growing in tufts among low bushes of the " wait-a-bit " thorn (Acacia detinens), with its annoying fish-hook-like spines. Where these rocks do not appear on the sm-face, the soil consists of yellow sand and tall coarse grasses growing among berry-yielding bushes, named moretloa {Grewia jlava), and mohatla {Tarchonanthus\ which has enough of aromatic resinous matter to burn brightly, though perfectly green. In more sheltered spots we come on clumps of the white-thorned mimosa {Acacia horrida, also A. atomiphylla), and great abundance of wild sage {Salvia Africana), and various leguminosae, ixias, and large-flowering bulbs: the Amaryllis toxicaria and A. Brunsvigia inultifiora (the former a poisonous bulb) yield in the decayed lamellae a soft silky down, a good material for stuffing mattrasses. In some few parts of the country the remains of ancient forests of wild oHve-trees ( Olea similis), and of the camel thorn {Acacia giraffe), are still to be met vnth ; but when these are levelled in the proximity of a Bechuana ^dllage no young trees spring up to take then- places. This is not because the wood has a growth so slow as not to be appreciable in its increase dm-ing the short period that it can be observed by man, wliich might be supposed from its being so excessively hard ; for having measured a young tree of this species growuig in the corner of Mr. Moffat's garden near Chap. YI. VEGETABLE POISON. 113 the water, I found tliat it increased at tlie rate of a quarter of an inch in diameter annually during a number of years. Moreover the larger specimens, which now find few or no successors, if they had more rain in their youth, cannot be above two or three hundred years old. It is probable that this is the tree of which the Ai'k of the Covenant and the Tabernacle were constructed, as it is reported to be found where the Israehtes were at the time these were made. It is an imperishable wood, while that usually pointed out as the shittim " (or Acacia nilotica) soon decays and wants beauty. In association with it we always observe a curious plant, named ngotuane, which bears such a profusion of fine yellow strong- scented flowers as quite to perfume the air. This plant forms a remarkable exception to the general rule, that nearly aU the plants in the dry parts of Afi-ica are scentless or emit only a disagree- able odour. It, moreover, contains an active poison ; a French gentleman, lia^ing imbibed a mouthful or two of an infusion of its flowers as tea, found himself rendered nearly powerless. Yinegar has the peculiar property of rendering this poison per- fectly inert, whether in or out of the body. When mixed witli vinegar, the poison may be di-unk Avith safety, wliile, if only tasted by itself, it causes a burning sensation in the tlu-oat. This gentleman described the action of tlie vinegar, when he was nearly deprived of power by the poison imbibed, to have been as if electricity had run along his nerves as soon as he had taken a single glassful. The cure was instantaneous and complete. I had always to regret want of opportunity for investigating this remarkable and yet controllable agent on the nervous system. Its usual proximity to camel-thorn trees may be accounted for by the 'probability that the girafie, which feeds on this tree, may make use of the plant as a medicine. During the period of my ^dsit at Kuruman, JMr. Moflat, who has been a missionary in Africa during upwards of forty years, and is well kno^m by his interesting work, ' Scenes and Labours in South Africa,' was busily engaged in carrying through the press, with which his station is famished, the Bible in the lang-uage of the Bechuanas, which is called Sichuana. This has been a work of immense labour ; and as he was the first to reduce their speech to a written form, and has had his attention directed to the study for I 114 THE BECHUANA LANGUAGE. CHAr. YJ. at least thirty years, he may be supposed to be better adapted for the task than any man Living. Some idea of the copiousness of the language may be formed from the fact that even he never spends a week at his work without discovering new words ; the phenomenon, therefore, of any man who, after a few months' or years' study of a native tongue, cackles forth a torrent of vocables may well be wondered at, if it is meant to convey instruction. In my own case, though I have had as much intercourse with the purest idiom as most Englishmen, and have studied the language carefully, yet I can never utter an important statement without doing so very slowly, and repeating it too, lest the foreign accent, which is distinctly perceptible in all Europeans, should render the sense unintelligible. In this I follow the example of the Bechuana orators, who, on important matters, always speak slowly, deliberately, and with reiteration. The capabilities of this language may be inferred from the fact that the Pentateuch is fully expressed in Mr. Moffat's translation in fewer words than in the Greek Septuagint, and in a very considerably smaller number than in our own English version. The language is how- ever so simj^le in its construction, that its copiousness by no means requires the exj)lanation that the people have fallen from a former state of civilisation and cultiu-e. Language seems to be an attribute of the human mind and thought ; and the inflections, various as they are in the most barbarous tongues, as that of the Buslunen, are probably only proofs of the race being human, and endowed with the power of thinking ; the fuller development of language taking place as the imj)rovement of our other faculties goes on. It is fortunate that the translation of the Bible has been effected before the language became adulterated with half-uttered foreig-n words, and while those who have heard the eloquence of the native assembhes are still Hving; for the young, who are brought up in our schools, know less of the language than the missionaries ; and Europeans born in the country, while possessed of the idiom perfectly, if not otherwise educated, cannot be referred to for explanation of any uncommon word. A person who acted as interpreter to Sir George Cathcart actually told his Excel- lency that the language of the Basutos was not capable of ex- pressing the substance of a chief's diplomatic paper, while every one acquainted mth Moshesh, the chief who sent it, weU knows Chap. VI. TRANSLATION OF THE BIBLE. 115 tliat lie coiild in his o^ti tongue have expressed it without study all over again in tlu^ee or four different ways. The interpreter could scarcely have done as much in English. This langTiage both rich and poor speak correctly ; there is no vulgar style ; but children have a patois of then- own, using many words in their play which men would scorn to repeat. The Bamapela have adopted a cHck into their dialect, and a large infusion of the ringing n, wliich seems to have been for the pur- pose of preventing others from understanding them. The fact of the complete translation of the Bible at a station seven hundred miles .inland from the Cape natm^ally suggests the question, whether it is lilvcly to be permanently useful, and whether Christianity, as planted by modern missions, is likely to retain its vitahty without constant suppKes of foreign teaching? It would certainly be no cause for congTatulation if the Bechuana Bible seemed at aU hkely to meet the fate of EUiot's Choctaw version, a specimen of wliich may be seen in the hbrary of one of the American colleges — as God's word in a lang-uage wliich no living tongue can articulate, nor Hving mortal understand ; but a better destiny seems in store for this, for the Sichuana lan- guage has been introduced into the new country beyond Lake Ngami. There it is the com't language, and will take a stranger anywhere through a district larger than France. The Bechuanas, moreover, in aU probability possess that imperishabihty wliich forms so remarkable a feature in the entire African race. When converts are made from heathenism by modern mission- aries, it becomes an iaterestmg question w^lietlier their faith possesses the elements of permanence, or is only an exotic too tender for self-propagation when the fostering care of the foreign cultivators is mtlidra^Ti. If neither habits of self-reKance are cultivated, nor opportunities given for the exercise of that virtue, the most promisiug converts are apt to become like spoiled cluldren. In Madagascar a few Cliristians were left mtli nothing but the Bible iu their hands ; and though exposed to persecution, and even death itself, as the penalty of adherence to thefr profes- sion, they increased tenfold in numbers, and are, if possible, more decided behevers now than they were when, by an edict of the queen of that island, the missionaries ceased their teaching. In South Africa such an experiment could not be made, for 1 2 116 TEUE DUTY OF MISSIONARIES. Chap. YI. sucli a variety of Christian sects have followed the footsteps of the London Missionary Society's successful career, that converts of one denomination, if left to their own resoui'ces, are eagerly adopted by another ; and are thus more likely to become spoiled than trained to the manly Cln-istian vntues. Another element of weakness in this part of the missionary field is the fact of the^Iissionary Societies considering the Cape Colony itself as a proper sphere for their pecuhar operations. In addition to a weU-organised and efficient Dutch Eeformed Estab- lished Church, and schools for secular instruction, maintained by Government, in every village of any extent in the colony, we have a number of other sects, as the Wesleyans, Episcopahans, Moravians, aU piously labouring at the same good work. Now, it is deeply to be regretted that so much honest zeal should be so lavishly expended in a district wherein there is so little scope for success. Wlien we hear an agent of one sect urging his friends at home to aid him quickly to occupy some unimportant nook, because, if it is not speedily laid hold of, he will " not have room for the sole of his foot," one cannot help longing that both he and his friends would direct their noble aspirations to the millions of untaught heathen in the regions beyond, and no longer continue to convert the extremity of the continent into, as it were, a dam of benevolence. I would earnestly recommend all young missionaries to go at once to the real heathen, and never to be content with what has been made ready to their hands by men of greater enterprise. The idea of making model Christians of the young need not be entertained by any one who is secretly convinced, as most men who know then- otmi hearts are, that he is not a model Christian himself. The Israehtish slaves brought out of Egypt by Moses were not converted and elevated in one generation, though under the direct teaching of God himself. Notwithstanding the numbers of miracles he Avrought, a generation had to be cut off because of unbehef. Our own elevation also has been the work of centuries, and, remembering this, we should not iudulge in overwrought ex- pectations as to the elevation, which those who have inherited the degradation of ages, may attain in our day. The principle might even be adopted by Missionary Societies, that one ordinary mission- ary's hfetime of teaching should be considered an ample supply of ch.vi. modeen missions AisTD peimitive monasteries. 117 foreign teacliing for any tribe in a thinly peopled country, for some never -ssill receive the Gospel at all, while in other parts, when Christianity is once planted, the work is sure to go on. A missionary is soon kno^ii to be supported by his friends at home ; and though the salary is but a bare subsistence, to Africans it seems an enormous sum ; and being unable to appre- ciate the motives by which he is actuated, they consider them- selves entitled to various services at his hands, and defrauded if these are not duly rendered. This feeling is all the stronger when a young man, instead of going boldly to the real heathen, settles do^vn in a comfortable house and garden prepared by those nto whose labours he has entered. A remedy for this evil might be found in appropriating the houses and gardens raised by the missionaries' hands to their own. families. It is ridiculous to call such places as Kiu'uman, for instance, " Missionary Society's property." This beautiful station was made what it is, not by English money, but by the sweat and toil of fathers whose children have, notwithstanding, no place on earth wliich they can call a home. The Society's operations may be transferred to the north, and then the slrong-built mission premises be- come the home of a Boer, and the stately stone chm-ch his cattle-peru This place -has been what the monasteries of Europe are said to have been when pure. The monks did not disdain to hold the plough. They introduced fruit-trees, flowers, and vege- tables, in addition to teaching and emancipating the serfs. Their monasteries were mission stations, which resembled ours in being dispensaiues for the sick, almshouses for the poor, and nurseries of learning. Can we learn notliing fi'om them in their prosperity as the schools of Europe, and see nought in their history but the pollution and laziness of their decay ? Can our vdse men tell us why the former mission stations (prunitive monasteries) were self- supporting, rich, and flourishing as pioneers of civilization and agricultiu:e from which we even now reap benefits, and modern mission stations are mere pauper establishments without that per- manence or ability to be self-supporting which they possessed ? Protestant missionaries of every denomination in South Africa all agree in one point, that no mere profession of Clmstianity is sufiicient to entitle the converts to the Christian name. They are all anxious to place the Bible in the hands of the natives, and, 118 ATTACK OF BOERS ON BAKWAINS. Chap. VI. witli ability to read that, there can be little doubt as to the future. We believe Christianity to be divine, and equal to aU it has to perform ; then let the good seed be widely sown, and, no matter to what sect the converts may belong, the harvest will be glorious. Let notliing that I have said be interpreted as indicative of feelings inimica] to any body of Christians, for I never as a mis- sionary felt myself to be either Presbyterian, EpiscopaHan, or Independent, or called upon in any way to love one denomination less than another. My earnest desne is, that those who really have the best interests of the heathen at heart should go to them ; and assuredly, in Africa at least, self-denying labours among real heathen will not fail to be appreciated. Christians have never yet dealt fairly by the heathen and been disappointed. Wlien Sechele understood that we could no longer remain with him at Kolobeng, he sent his cliildren to Mr. Moffat, at Kuruman, for instruction in all the knowledge of the wliite men. Mr. Moffat very hberally received at once an accession of five to his family, with their attendants. Having been detained at Kuruman about a fortnight by the breaking of a waggon-wheel, I was thus providentially prevented from being present at the attack of the Boers on the Bakwains, news of which was brought, about the end of that time, by Masebele, the wife of Sechele. She had herself been hidden in a cleft of a rock, over wliich a number of Boers were firing. Her infant began to cry, and, terrified lest this should attract the attention of the men, the muzzles of whose guns appeared at every discharge over her head, she took off her armlets as playthings to quiet the child. She brought Mr. Moffat a letter, wliich tells its own tale; nearly literally translated it was as follows : — " Friend of my heart's love, and of all the confidence of my heart, I am Sechele ; I am undone by the Boers, who attacked me, though I had no guilt with them. They demanded that I should be in then- kingdom, and I refused ; they demanded that I should prevent the Enghsh and Griquas from passing (north- v>^ards). I replied. These are my friends, and I can prevent no one (of them). They came on Saturday, and I besought them not to fight on Sunday, and they assented. They began on Monday morning at twilight, and fired with all their might, and Chap. VI. SECHELE'S LETTEK. 119 burned the tovm vdth. fire, and scattered us. They killed sixty of my people, and captured women, and children, and men. And the mother of Baleriling (a former wife of Sechele) they also took prisoner. They took all the cattle and all the goods of the Bakwains ; and the house of Livingstone they plundered, taking away all his goods. The number of waggons they had was eighty- five, and a cannon ; and after they had stolen my own. waggon and that of Macabe, then the number of their waggons (counting the cannon as one) was eighty-eight. All the goods of the hunters (certain EngHsh gentlemen hunting and exploring in the north) were burned in the tovm ; and of the Boers were killed twenty- eight. Yes, my beloved friend, now my wife goes to see the children, and Kobus Hae will convey her to you. " I am, Sechele, " The Son of Mochoasele." This statement is in exact accordance vdth. the account given by the native teacher Mebalwe, and also that sent by some of the Boers themselves to the pubhc colonial papers. The crime of cattle-stealing, of which we hear so much near Caffreland, was never alleged against these people, and, if a single case had occurred when I was in the country, I must have heard of it, and would at once say so. But the only crime imputed in the papers was that " Sechele was getting too saucy." The demand made for his subjection and ser\ice in preventmg the Enghsh traders passing to the north was kept out of view. Very soon after Pretorius had sent the marauding party against Kolobeng, he was called away to the tribunal of infinite justice. His poHcy is justified by the Boers generally from the instructions given to the Jewish wai'riors in Deuteronomy xx. 10-14. Hence, when he died, the obituary notice ended with " Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord." I vnsh. he had not "for- bidden us to preach unto the Gentiles that they may be saved." The report of this outrage on the Bakwains, coupled with denunciations against myself for ha^^ing, as it was alleged, taught them to kill Boers, produced such a panic in the country, that I coidd not engage a single servant to accompany me to the north. I have already alluded to their mode of warfare, and in all previous Boorish forays the killing had all been on one side ; now. 120 A PANIC. Chaf. YI. however, that a tribe where an Englisliman had lived had begun to shed their blood as well, it was considered the strongest jDresumptive e\*idence against me. Loud vows of vengeance were uttered against my head, and tlireats of instant pursuit by a lai'ge party on horseback, should I dare to go into or beyond their country; and as these were coupled with the declaration that the EngHsh Government had given over the whole of the native tribes to their rule, and would assist in then- entire subjection by preventing fire-arms and ammunition from entering the country, except for the use of the Boers, it was not to be wondered at that I was detained for months at Km-uman fr'om sheer inabihty to get waggon-drivers. The Enghsh name, fr-om being honoured and respected all over the countiy, had become somewhat more than suspected; and as the poHcy of depriving these friendly tribes of the means of defence was represented by the Boers as proof positive of the TN^sh of the English that they should be subjugated, the conduct of a govern- ment which these tribes always thought the paragon of justice and friendship was rendered totally incomprehensible to them ; they could neither defend themselves against then enemies, nor shoot the animals in the produce of wliicli we T\ished them to trade. At last I found three servants willing to risk a journey to the north ; and a man of colour, named George Fleming, who had generously been assisted by Mr. H. E. Kutherford, a mercantile gentleman of Cape Town, to endeavour to establish a trade the Makololo, had also managed to get a similar number ; we accorduigiy left Kui'uman on the 20th November, and proceeded on our journey. Our servants Avere the worst possible specimens of those who imbibe the ^dces ^itliout the vu'tues of Em-opeans, but we had no choice, and were glad to get away on any terms. AVhen we reached Motito, forty miles off, we met Sechele, on his way, as he said, "to the Queen of England." Two of his own children, and then' mother, a former \\Tfe, were among the captives seized by the Boers ; and being strongly embued with the then very prevalent notion of England's justice and generosity, he thought that in consequence of the violated treaty he had a fair case to lay before Her Majesty. He employed all his eloquence and powers of persuasion to induce me to accompany him, but I Ch. VI. SECHELE'S INTENDED JOURNEY TO ENGLAND. 121 excused myself on tlie ground that my arrangements were already made for exploring the north. On explaining the difficulties of the way, and endeavouring to dissuade him from the attempt, on account of the knowledge I possessed of the governor's pohcy, he put the pointed question, " Will the Queen not Hsten to me, sup- posing I should reach her ? " I rephed, " I beheve she would hsten, but the difficulty is to get to her." " Well, I shall reach her," expressed his final determination. Others explained the difficulties more fully, but notliing could shake his resolution. W^hen he reached Bloemfonteiii he found the English army just returning from a battle mtli the Basutos, in which both parties claimed the victory, and both were glad that a second engage- ment was not tried. Our officers invited Sechele to dine with them, heard his story, and collected a handsome sum of money to enable him to pursue his journey to England. The com- mander refrained from noticing him, as a single word in favour of the restoration of the childi-en of Sechele would have been a virtual confession of the failure of this own pohcy at the very outset. Sechele proceeded as far as the Cape ; but liis resources being there expended, he was obKged to retm-n to liis own country, one thousand miles distant, without accomplishing the object of his journey. On his return he adopted a mode of punishment which he had seen m the colony, namely, makmg criminals work on the pubhc roads. And he has since, I am informed, made himself the missionary to his own people. He is tall, rather corpulent, and has more of the negro featm-e than common, but has large eyes. He is very dark ; and his people swear by " Black Sechele." He has great intelligence, reads well, and is a fluent speaker. Great numbers of the tribes, formerly hving under the Boers, have taken refuge under his sway, and he is now greater in power than he was before the attack on Kolobeng. Having parted with Sechele, we skirted along the Kalahari Desert, and sometimes mtliin its borders, gi^^ing the Boers a wide berth, A larger fall of rain than usual had occurred in 1852, and that was the completion of a cycle of eleven or twelve years, at which the same phenomenon is reported to have happened on tln*ee occasions. An unusually large crop of melons had appeared in consequence. We had the pleasure of meeting with 122 MEETING WITH ME. MACABE. Chap. YI. Mr. J. Macabe returning from Lake Ngami, which lie had succeeded in reaching by going right across the Desert from a point a little to the south of Kolobeng. The accounts of the abundance of water-melons were amply confirmed by this energetic traveller, for having these in vast quantities liis cattle subsisted on the fluid contained in them for a period of no less than twenty-one days ; and when at last they reached a supply of water they did not seem to care much about it. Coming to the lake from the south-east, he crossed the Teoughe, and went round the northern part of it, and is the only Em'opean traveller who had actually seen it all. His estimate of the extent of the lake is higher than that given by Mr. Oswell and myself, or from about ninety to one hundred miles in circumference. Before the lake was discovered Macabe wrote a letter in one of the Cape papers recommending a certain route as Likely to lead to it. The Transvaal Boers fined him 500 dollars for writing about " ouze felt," our country, and imprisoned him too till the fine was paid. I now learned fr'om his own hps that the pubhc report of this is true. Mr. Macabe's companion, Mahar, was mis- taken by a tribe of Barolongs for a Boer, and shot as he approached their village. When Macabe came up and explained that he was an Enghshman, they expressed the utmost regret, and helped to bury him. Tliis was the first case in recent times of an Enghsh- man being slain by the Bechuanas. We afterwards heard that there had been some fighting between these Barolongs and the Boers, and that there had been capturing of cattle on both sides. If this was true, I can only say that it was the first time that I ever heard of cattle being taken by Bechuanas. This was a Cafire war in stage the second ; the thkd stage in the develop- ment is when both sides are equally well armed and afraid of each other ; the fourth, when the English take up a quarrel not their own, and the Boers shp out of the fr^ay. Two other English gentlemen crossed and recrossed the Desert about the same time, and nearly iu the same direction. On returning, one of them, Captain Shelley, while riding forward on horseback, lost himself, and was obhged to find his way alone to Kuruman, some hundreds of miles distant. Eeachmg that station slnrtless, and as bro™ as a Griqua, he was taken for one by Mrs. Moffat, and was received by her with a salutation iii ClIAP. VI. HOT WIND— ELECTRICITY. 123 Dutch, that being the language spoken by tliis people. His sufferings must have been far more severe than any we endured. The result of the exertions of both Shelley and Macabe is to prove that the general view of the Desert always given by the natives has been substantially correct. Occasionally, during the very diy seasons which succeed our winter and precede our rains, a hot wind blows over the Desert from north to south. It feels somewhat as if it came from an oven, and seldom blows longer at a time than three days. It resembles in its effects the harmattan of the north of Africa, and at the time the missionaries first settled in the country, thirty-five years ago, it came loaded with fine reddish-coloured sand. Though no longer accompanied by sand, it is so devoid of moisture as to cause the wood of the best seasoned Enghsh boxes and furniture to slirink so that every wooden article not made in the country is warped. The verls of ramrods made m England are loosened, and on retm-ning to Europe fasten again. This wind is in such an electric state that a bunch of ostrich-feathers held a few seconds against it becomes as strongly charged as if attached to a powerful electrical machine, and clasps the advancing hand with a sharp crackling sound. Wlien this hot wuid is blowing, and even at other times, the pecuharly strong electrical state of the atmosphere causes the movement of a native in his kaross to produce therein a stream of smaU sparks. The first time I noticed this appearance was while a chief was travelling mth me in my waggon. Seeing part of the fur of his mantle, which was exposed to sHght friction by the movement of the waggon, assume quite a luminous appear- ance, I rubbed it smartly with the hand, and found it readily gave out bright sparks, accompanied with distinct cracks. " Don't you see this ? " said I. " The white men did not show us this," he rephed; we had it long before white men came into the country, we and our forefathers of old." Unfortunately I never inquired the name wliicli they gave to this appearance, but I have no doubt there is one for it in the language. Otto von Guerrike is said, by Baron Humboldt, to have been the first that ever observed this effect in Europe, but the phenomenon had been familiar to the Bechuanas for ages. Nothing came of that how- ever, for they viewed the sight as if with the eyes of an ox. The 124 FLOCKS OF SWIFTS— SACEED CAVE. Chap. YI. human mind has remained here as stagnant to the present day, in reference to the physical operations of the umverse, as it once did in England. Ko science has been developed, and few ques- tions are ever discussed except those wliich have an intimate connexion with the wants of the stomach. Very large flocks of swifts ( Cypselus apus) were observed flying over the plains north of Kuruman. I counted a stream of them, which, by the time it took to pass towards the reeds of that valley, must have numbered upwards of four thousand. Only a few of these birds breed at any time in this country. I have often ob- served them, and noticed that there was no appearance of their having paired ; there was no chasing of each other, nor any play- ing together. There are several other bhds which continue in flocks, and move about lil^e wandering gipsies, even during the breeding season, which in this country happens in the intervals between the cold and hot seasons, cold acting somewhat in the same way here as the genial warmth of spring does in Europe. Are these the migratory birds of Europe, which retm-n there to breed and rear their young ? On the 31st December, 1852, we reached the town of Sechele, called, fi-om the part of the range on which it is situated, Litu- baruba. Near the village there exists a cave named Lepelole ; it is an interesting evidence of the former existence of a gushing fountaui. Ko one dared to enter the Lohaheng, or cave, for it was the common behef that it was the habitation of the Deity. As we never had a hohday from January to December, and our Sundays were the periods of our gTeatest exertions in teachiug, I projected an exciu'sion into the cave on a week-day to see the god of the Bakwains. The old men said that every one who went in remaiaed there for ever, adding, " If the teacher is so mad as to kill himself, let him do so alone, we shall not be to blame." The declaration of Sechele, that he would foUow where I led, produced the greatest consternation. It is curious that in all then pretended dreams or visions of their god he has always a crooked leg, Hke the Eg}'ptian Thau. Supposiug that those who were reported to have perished in tliis cave had fallen over some precipice, we went well provided with hghts, ladder. Hues, &c. ; but it turned out to be only an open cave, with an entrance about ten feet square, wliich contracts into two water-worn Chap. YI. RETALIATION ON BOERS. 125 branches, ending in round orifices tlirougli whicli tlie water once flowed. The only inhabitants it seems ever to have had were baboons. I left at the end of the upper branch one of Father Mathew's leaden teetotal tickets. I never saw the Bakwains looking so haggard and lean as at this time. Most of their cattle had been swept away by the Boers, together with about eighty fine draught-oxen ; and much provision left vnth them by two officers, CajDtains Codrington and Webb, to serve for their return journey south, had been carried off also. On their return these officers found the skeletons of the Bakr^-ains where they expected to find their own goods. All the corn, clotliing, and furniture of the people too had been consimied in the flames which the Boers had forced the subject tribes to apjjly to the town during the fight, so that its inhabitants were now hterally starving. Sechele had given orders to his j)eople not to commit any act of revenge pending his risit to the Queen of England ; but some of the young men ventured to go to meet a party of Boers re- turning from hunting, and, as the Boers became terrified and ran off, they brought their waggons to Litubaruba. This seems to have given the main body of Boers an idea that the Bakwains meant to begin a guerilla war upon them. This " Caffre war " was, however, only in embryo, and not near that stage of deve- lopment in which the natives have found out that the hide-and- seek system is the most successful. The Boers, in alarm, sent four of their number to ask for peace ! I, being present, heard the condition : " Sechele's children must be restored to him." I never saw men so completely and uncon- sciously in a trap as these four Boers were. Strong parties of armed Bakwains occupied every pass in the hills and gorges aroimd ; and had they not promised much more than they in- tended, or did perform, that day would have been their last. The commandant Scholz had appropriated the children of Sechele to be liis own domestic slaves. I was present when one Kttle boy, Khari, son of Sechele, was returned to his mother ; the cliild had been allowed to roll into the fire, and there were three large un- bound open sores on different parts of liis body. His mother and the women received him with a flood of silent tears. Slavery is said to be mild and tender-hearted in some places. 126 LOVE OF CHILDREN. Chap. TI. The Boers assert tliat tliey are tlie best of masters, and that, if the Enghsh had possessed the Hottentot slaves, they would have received much worse treatment than they did : what that would have been it is difficult to imagine. I took down the names of some scores of boys and gnls, many of whom I knew as our scholars ; but I could not comfort the weeping mothers by any hope of their ever returning from slavery. The Bechuanas are universally much attached to children. A little child toddling near a party of men while they are eating is sure to get a handful of the food. This love of children may arise, in a great measure, from the patriarchal system under which they dwell. Every little stranger forms an increase of property to the whole community, and is duly reported to the chief — ^boys being more welcome than girls. The parents take the name of the child, and often address their childi-en as ]Ma (mother), or Ea (father). Our eldest boy being named Kobert, Mrs. Livingstone was, after his birth, always addressed as Ma-Kobert, instead of Mary, her Christian name. I have examined several cases in which a grandmother has taken upon herself to suckle a grandcliild. Masina of Kmniman had no children after the birth of her daughter Sina, and had no milk after Sina was weaned, an event which usually is deferred till the child is two or three years old. Siaa married when she was seven- teen or eighteen, and had t^viiis ; Masina, after at least fifteen years' interval since she last suckled a child, took possession of one of them, appHed it to her breast, and milk flowed, so that she was able to nm^se the child entirely. Masina was at this time at least forty years of age. I have witnessed several other cases analogous to this. A grandmother of forty, or even less, for they become withered at an early age, when left at home with a young child, appHes it to her own shrivelled breast, and milk soon follows. In some cases, as that of Ma-bogosing, the chief wife of Mahure, who was about thirty-five years of age, the child was not entirely dependent on the grandmother's breast, as the mother suckled it too. I had witnessed the production of milk so frequently by the simple appHcation of the hps of the child, that I was not therefore surprised when told by the Portuguese in Eastern Africa of a native doctor who, by ajDplying a poultice of the pounded larvae of hornets to the breast of a woman, aided by the attempts Cii. YI. PHENOMENON IN THE NURTURE OF CHILDREN. 127 of the child, could bring back the milk. Is it not possible that the story in the * Cloud of Witnesses,' of a man dui-ing the time of persecution in Scotland putting his child to his own breast, and finding, to the astonishment of the whole country, that milk fol- lowed the act, may have been Hterally true? It was regarded and is quoted as a miracle ; but the feehngs of the father towards the child of a mui-dered mother must have been as nearly as pos- sible analogous to the maternal feeling ; and, as anatomists declare the structure of both male and female breasts to be identical, there is nothing physically impossible in the alleged result. The illus- trious Baron Humboldt quotes an instance of the male breast yielding milk ; and though I am not conscious of being over credu- lous, the strange instances I have examined in the opposite sex make me believe that there is no error in that philosopher's statement. The Boers know from experience that adult captives may as well be left alone, for escape is so easy in a wild country that no fugitive slave-law can come into operation ; they therefore adopt the system of seizing only the youngest children, in order that these may forget their parents and remain in perpetual bondage. I have seen mere infants in their houses repeatedly : this fact was for- merly denied ; and the only thing which was wanting to make the previous denial of the practice of slavery and slave-hunting by the Transvaal Boers no longer necessary was the declaration of their independence. In conversation with some of my friends here I learned that Maleke, a chief of the Bakwaius, who formerly Uved on the hill Litubaruba, had been killed by the bite of a mad dog. My cimosity was strongly excited by this statement, as rabies is so rare in tliis country. I never heard of another case, and could not satisfy myself that even this was real hydrophobia. AVhQe I was at Mabotsa some dogs became affected by a disease wliich led them to run about in an incoherent state ; but I doubt whether it was anything but an affection of the brain. No individual or animal got the complaint by inoculation from the animals' teeth; and from all that I could hear, the prevailing idea of hydrophobia not existing within the tropics seems to be quite correct. The diseases known among the Bakwains are remarkably few. There is no consumption nor scrofula, and insanity and hydro- cephalus are rare. Cancer and cholera are quite unknown. 128 DISEASES. Chap. YI. Small-pox and measles passed through the country about twenty years ago and committed great ravages ; but, though the former has since broken out on the coast repeatedly, neither disease has since travelled inland. For small-pox the natives employed in some parts inoculation in the forehead mth some animal deposit ; in other pai-ts they employed the matter of the small-pox itself ; and in one village they seem to have selected a vu-ulent case for the matter used in the operation, for nearly all the village was swept off by the disease in a mahgnant confluent form. AVhere the idea came from I cannot conceive. It was practised by the BakwaiDs at a time when they had no intercouse, direct or indi- rect, with the southern missionaries. They all adopt readily the use of vaccine xirns when it is brought Tvithin their reach. A certaia loathsome disease wliich decimates the North Ame- rican Indians, and threatens exthpation to the South Sea islanders, dies out in the interior of Africa without the aid of medicuie. And the Bang^'aketse, who brought it from the west coast, lost it when they came into their own land south-west of Xolobeng. It seems incapable of permanence in any form in persons of pure African blood any^vhere in the centre of the country. In persons of mixed blood it is otherwise ; and the vfrulence of the secondary symptoms seemed to be, in all the cases that came under my care, in exact proportion to the greater or less amount of Euro- pean blood in the patient. Among the Corannas and Griquas of mixed breed it produces the same ravages as ia Europe ; among half-blood Portuguese it is equally frightful in its im-oads on the system ; but in the pm-e Negro of the central parts it is quite incapable of permanence. Among the Barotse I found a disease called manassah, which closely resembles that of the foeda mulier of history. Equally unknown is stone in the bladder and gravel. I never met with a case, though the waters are often so strongly impreg- nated with sulphate of Mme, that kettles quickly become incrusted internally with the salt ; and some of my patients, who were troubled with indigestion, beHeved that their stomachs had got into the same condition. This freedom fr-om calcuh would appear to be remarkable ia the Negro race, even in the United States ; for seldom indeed have the most famed Hthotomists there ever operated on a Negro. Chap. YI. PREMATURE BURIAL^OPHTHALMIA. 129 The diseases most prevalent are the following: pneumonia, produced by sudden changes of temperature, and other inflamma- tions, as of the bowels, stomach, and pleura ; rheumatism ; disease of the heart ; but these become rare as the people adopt the European dress; various forms of mdigestion and ophthalmia; hooping cough comes frequently; and every year the period preceding the rains is marked by some sort of epidemic. Some- times it is general ophthalmia, resembhng closely the Eg}^tian. In another year it is a kind of diarrhoea, which nothing will cure until there is a fall of rain, and anytliing acts as a charm after that. One year the epidemic period w^as marked by a disease which looked like pneumonia, but had the pecuhar s}Tnptom strongly developed of great pain in the seventh cervical process. Many persons died of it, after being in a comatose state for many hours or days before then- decease. No inspection of the body being ever allow^ed by these people, and the place of sepulture being carefully concealed, I had to rest satisfied with conjecture. Frequently the Bakwains bm-ied their dead in the huts where they died, for fear lest the witches (Baloi) should disinter their friends, and use some part of the body in their fiendish arts. Scarcely is the breath out of the body w^hen the unfortunate patient is hurried away to be buried. An ant- eater's hole is often selected, in order to save the trouble of diggmg a grave. On two occasions wliile I was there this hasty burial was followed by the return home of the men, who had been buried aHve, to their affrighted relatives. They had recovered while in their graves fr'om prolonged swoons. In ophthalmia the doctors cup on the temples, and apply to the eyes the pungent smoke of certain roots, the patient at the same time taking strong draughts of it up his nostrds. We found the solution of nitrate of silver, two or three grains to the ounce of rain-water, answer the same end so much more effectually, that every morning numbers of patients crowded round our house for the colljTium. It is a good preventive of an acute attack when poured into the eyes as soon as the pain begins, and might prove valuable for travellers. Cupping is performed with the horn of a goat or antelope, having a little hole pierced in the small end. In some cases a small piece of wax is attached, and a temporary hole made tlu-ough it to tlie horn. When the air is w^ell with- K 130 CUPPING -NATIVE DOCTORS. Chap. YI. drawn, and kept out by touching tlie orifice at every inspiration with the point of the tongue, the wax is at last pressed together with the teeth, and the little hole in it closed up, leaving a vacuum within the horn for the blood to flow from the already scarified parts. The edges of the horn apphed to the surface are wetted, and cupping is weU performed, though the doctor occasionally, by separating the fibrine from the blood in a basin of water by his side, and exhibiting it, pretends that he has extracted something more than blood. He can thus explain the rationale of the cure by his own art, and the ocular demonstration given is well appreciated. Those doctors who have inherited their profession as an heir- loom from their fathers and grandfathers generally possess some valuable knowledge, the result of long and close observation; but if a man cannot say that the medical art is in his family, he may be considered a quack. With the regular practitioners I always remained on the best terms, by refraining from appear- ing to doubt their skill in the presence of their patients. Any explanation in private was thankfully received by them, and wrong treatment changed into something more reasonable with cordial good will, if no one but the doctor and myself were present at the conversation. English medicines were eagerly asked for and accepted by all ; and we always found medical knowledge an important aid in convincing the people that we were really anxious for their weKare. We cannot accuse them of ingrati- tude ; in fact, we shall remember the kindness of the Bakwains to us as long as we Hve. The surgical knowledge of the native doctors is rather at a low ebb. No one ever attempted to remove a tumour except by external apphcations. Those with which the natives are chiefly troubled are fatty and fibrous tumours ; and as they all have the vis medicatrix naturce in remarkable activity, I safely removed an immense number. In illustration of their want of surgical know- ledge may be mentioned the case of a man who had a tumour as large as a child's head. Tliis was situated on the nape of liis neck, and prevented liis walking straight. He appHed to his chief, and he got some famous strange doctor from the east coast to cm-e him. He and liis assistants attempted to dissolve it by kindHng on it a Httle fire made of a few small pieces Chap. YI. LOW STATE OF SURGICAL KNOWLEDGE. 131 of medicinal roots. I removed it for him, and he always walked >vith his head much more erect than he needed to do ever afterwards. Both men and women submit to an operation without wincing, or any of that shouting which caused young students to faint in the operating theatre before the introduction of chloro- form. The women pride themselves on their ability to bear pain. A mother will address her Kttle girl, from whose foot a thorn is to be extracted, with " Xow, Ma, you are a woman ; a woman does not cry." A man scorns to shed tears. When we were passing one of the deep wells in the Kalahari, a boy, the son of an aged father, had been drowned in it while plaj^ng on its brink. When all hope was gone, the father uttered an exceed- ingly great and bitter cry. It was sorrow TNathout hope. This was the only instance I ever met with of a man weeping in tliis country. Their ideas on obstetrics are equally unscientific, and a medical man going near a woman at her confinement appeared to them more out of place tlian a female medical student ap- pears to us in a dissecting-room. A case of t^vins, however, hap- pening, and the ointments of all the doctors of the town proving utterly insufiicient to effect the rehef which a few seconds of English art afforded, the prejudice vanished at once. As it would have been out of the question for me to have entered upon this branch of the profession, — as indeed it would be inexpedient for any medical man to devote himself exclusively, in a thinly-peopled country, to the practice of medicine, — I thereafter reserved myself for the difficult cases only ; and had the satisfaction of often con- ferring great benefits on poor women in their hour of sorrow. The poor creatm-es are often placed in a httle hut built for the pm-pose, and are left without any assistance whatever, and the numbers of umbihcal herniae which are met with in consequence is very great. The women suffer less at their confinement than is the case in civilised countries ; perhaps from their treating it not as a disease, but as an operation of nature, requiring no change of diet, except a feast of meat and abundance of fresh air. The husband on these occasions is bound to slaughter for his lady an ox, or goat, or sheep, according to his means. My knowledge in the above line procured for me great fame in a department in which I could lay no claim to merit. K 2 132 CHILD MEDICINE. Chap. VI. A woman came a distance of one hundred miles for relief in a complaint which seemed to have baffled the native doctors; a complete cure was the result. Some twelve months after she returned to her husband, she bore a son. Her husband having previously reproached her for being barren, she sent me a handsome present, and proclaimed all over the country that I possessed a medicine for the cure of sterility. The consequence was, that I was teased with applications from husbands and wives from all parts of the country. Some came upwards of two hundred miles to purchase the great boon, and it was in vain for me to explaia that I had only cured the disease of the other case. The more I denied, the higher their offers rose; they would give any money for the " child medicine ;" and it was really heart-rendiug to hear the earnest entreaty, and see the tearful eye, wliich spoke the intense desire for offspring : " I am getting old, you see grey hairs here and there on my head, and I have no cliild ; you know how Bechuana husbands cast their old wives away ; what can I do ? I have no child to bring water to me when I am sick," &c. The whole of the country adjacent to the Desert, from Kuru- man to Kolobeng, or Litubaruba, and beyond up to the latitude of Lake Ngami, is remarkable for its great salubrity of climate. Not only the natives, but Europeans whose constitutions have been impaired by an Indian cKmate, find the tract of country indicated both healthy and restorative. The health and longevity of the missionaries have always been fair, though mission-work is not very conducive to either elsewhere. Cases have been known ia which patients have come from the coast with com- plaints closely resembhng, if they were not actually, those of con- sumption; and they have recovered by the influence of the climate alone. It must always be borne ia mind that the cHmate near the coast, from which we received such very favourable reports of the health of the British troops, is actually inferior for persons sufferiag from pulmonary complaints to that of any part not subjected to the influence of sea-air. I have never seen the beneficial effects of the inland chmate on persons of shattered constitutions, nor heard their high praises of the benefit they have derived from travelling, without wishing that its bracing effects should become more extensively known in England. No one ClIAP. VI. SALUBRITY OF CLIMATE. 133 who has visited the region I have above mentioned fails to remember with pleasure the wild healthful gipsy life of waggon- travelling. A considerable proportion of animal diet seems requisite here. Independent of the want of salt, we required meat in as large quantity daily as we do in England, and no bad effects, in the way of biliousness, followed the free use of flesh, as in other hot climates. A vegetable diet causes acidity and heartburn. Mr. Oswell thought this climate much superior to that of Peru, as far as pleasure is concerned ; the want of instruments unfor- tunately prevented my obtaining accurate scientific data for the medical world on this subject ; and were it not for the great ex- pense of such a trip, I should have no hesitation iu recommending the borders of the Kalahari Desert as admirably suited for all patients havuig pulmonary complauits. It is the complete antipodes to our cold damp EngHsh cHmate. The winter is perfectly dry ; and as not a drop of raiQ falls during that period, namely, from the begioning of May to the end of August, damp and cold are never combined. However hot the day may have been at Kolobeng, — and the thermometer sometimes rose, previous to a faU of rain, up to 96° in the coolest part of our house, — yet the atmosphere never has that steamy feehng nor those debilitatiag effects so well known in India and on the coast of Africa itself. In the evenings the air becomes deHciously cool, and a pleasant refreshing night follows the hottest day. The greatest heat ever felt is not so oppressive as it is when there is much humidity in the air ; and the great evaporation consequent on a fall of rain makes the rainy season the most agreeable for traveUing. Nothing can exceed the bahny feeling of the evenings and mornings during the whole year. You Avish for an increase neither of cold nor heat; and you can sit out of doors till midnight without ever thinktag of colds or rheumatism ; or you may sleep out at night, looking up to the moon till you fall asleep, mthout a thought or sign of moon-bhndness. Indeed during many months there is scarcely any dew. 134 DEPARTURE FROM BAKWAIN COUNTRY. Chap. YII. CHAPTEK YII. Departure from the country of the Bakwains — Large black ant — Land tortoises — Diseases of wild animals — Habits of old lions — Cowardice of the lion — Its dread of a snare — Major Vardon's note — The roar of the lion resembles the cry of the ostrich — Seldom attacks full-grown animals — Buffaloes and lions — Mice — Serpents — Treading on one — Venomous and harmless varieties — Fascination — Sekomi's ideas of honesty — Ceremony of the Sechu for boys — The Boyale for young women — Bamangwato hills — The Unicorn's Pass — The country bej'ond — Grain — Scarcity of water — Honourable conduct of English gentlemen — Gordon Cumming's hunting adventures — A word of advice for young sportsmen — Bush women drawing water — Ostrich — Silly habit — Paces — Eggs — Food. Having remained five days with tlie wretched Bakwains, seeing the effects of war, of which only a very inadequate idea can ever be formed by those who have not been eye-witnesses of its miseries, we prejDared to depart on the 15th January, 1853. Several dogs, in better condition by far than any of the people, had taken up their residence at the water. No one would own them; there they had remained, and, coming on the trail of the people, long after their departure from the scene of conflict, it was plain they had " Held o'er the dead their carnival." Hence the disgust with which they were viewed. On our way from Khopong, along the ancient river-bed which forms the pathway to Boatlanama, I found a species of cactus, being the third I have seen in the country, — namely, one in the colony with a bright red flower, one at Lake Ngami, the flower of which was liver-coloured, and the present one, flower unkno-s\Ti. That the plant is uncommon may be inferred from the fact that the Bakwains find so much difiiculty in recognising the plant again after having once seen it, that they beHeve it has the power of changing its locaHty. On the 21st January we reached the wells of Boatlanama, and found them for the first time empty. Lopepe, which I had for- merly seen a stream running from a large reedy pool, was also dry. The hot salt spring of Serinane, east of Lopepe, being undrinkable, Chap. YII. LAND TORTOISES. 135 we pushed on to JMashiie for its delicious waters. In travelling through this country, the olfactory nerves are frequently excited by a strong disagreeable odour. This is caused by a large jet- black ant named " Leshonya." It is nearly an inch in length, and emits a pungent smeU when alarmed, in the same manner as the skunk. The scent must be as volatile as ether, for, on u-ritating the insect with a stick six feet long, the odour is instantly per- ceptible. Occasionally we lighted upon land tortoises, which, vdth their unlaid eggs, make a very agreeable dish. We saw many of their trails leading to the salt fountain ; they must have come great distances for this health-giving article. In lieu thereof they often devour wood-ashes. It is wonderful how this reptile holds its place in the country. ^Vhen seen, it never escapes. The young are taken for the sake of their shells ; these are made into boxes, which, filled with sweet-smelling roots, the women hang around their persons. When older it is used as food, and the shell con- verted into a rude basin to hold food or water. It owes its con- tinuance neither to speed nor cunning. Its colour, yellow and dark-bro-WTi, is well adapted, by its similarity to the surroimding grass and brushwood, to render it indistinguishable ; and, though it makes an awkward attempt to run on the approach of man, its trust is in its bony covering, from which even the teeth of a hyaena glance off foiled. When this long-lived creature is about to deposit her eggs, she lets herself into the ground by throwing the earth up round her shell, until only the top is visible ; then covering up the eggs, she leaves them until the rains begin to fall and the fresh herbage appears ; the young ones then come out, their shells stiQ quite soft, and, unattended by thefr dam, begin the world for themselves. Their food is tender gxass and a plant named thotona, and they frequently resort to heaps of ashes and places containing efflorescence of the nitrates for the salts these contain. Inquiries among the Bushmen and Bakalahari, who are inti- mately acquainted with the habits of the game, lead to the belief that many diseases prevail among wild animals. I have seen the kokong or gnu, kama or hartebeest, the tsessebe, kukama, and the giraffe, so mangy as to be uneatable even by the natives. Keference has already been made to the peripneumonia which cuts off horses, tolos or koodoos. Great numbers also of zebras are 136 DISEASES OF WILD AIs^MALS. Chap. VH. found dead with masses of foam at tlie nostrils, exactly as occurs in the common " horse-sickness." The production of the malig- nant carbuncle called kuatsi, or selonda, by the flesh when eaten, is another proof of the disease of the tame and wild being identical. I once found a buffalo blind from ophthalmia standing by the fountain Otse ; when he attempted to run he lifted up his feet in the manner peculiar to blind animals. The rhinoceros has often worms on the conjunction of his eyes ; but these are not the cause of the dimness of vision which ^ill make him charge past a man who has woimded him, if he stands perfectly still, in the behef that his enemy is a tree. It probably arises from the horn being in the line of vision, for the variety named kuabaoba, which has a straight horn directed downwards away from that line, possesses acute eyesight, and is much more wary. All the wild animals are subject to intestinal worms besides. I have observed bunches of a tape-like thread and short worms of enlarged sizes in the rhinoceros. The zebras and elephants are seldom ^-ithout them, and a thread-worm may often be seen under the peritoneum of these animals. Short red larvae, which convey a stinging sensation to the hand, are seen clustering round the orifice of the mndpipe (trachea) of this animal at the back of the throat; others are seen in the fr'ontal sinus of antelopes; and curious flat leech-like worms "svith black eyes are found ia the stomachs of leches. The zebra, giraffe, eland, and kukama, have been seen mere skeletons from decay of their teeth as well as from disease. The camivora, too, become diseased and mangy; Hons get lean and perish miserably by reason of the decay of the teeth. When a Hon gTows too old to catch game, he fr'equently takes to killing goats in the villages ; a woman or child happening to go out at night falls a prey too ; and as this is his only soiu-ce of sub- sistence now, he continues it. From this circumstance has arisen the idea that the Hon, when he has once tasted human flesh, loves it better than any other. A man-eater is iuvariably an old Hon ; and when he overcomes his fear of man so far as to come to viQages for goats, the people remark, " His teeth are worn, he wiU soon kQl men." They at once acknowledge the necessity of iostant action, and turn out to kiU him. When Hving far away from population, or when, as is the case in some parts, he entertains a wholesome Chap. VII. THE LION. 137 dread of the Bushmen and Bakalahari, as soon as either disease or old age overtakes him, he begins to catch mice and other small rodents, and even to eat grass ; the natives, observing undigested vegetable matter in his droppings, follow up his trail in the cer- tainty of finding him scarcely able to move under some tree, and despatch him without difficulty. The grass may have been eaten as medicine, as is obserA' ed in dogs. That the fear of man often remains excessively strong in the carnivora is proved from well-authenticated cases in which the lioness, in the vicinity of towns where the large game had been imexpectedly driven a,way by fire-arms, has been knowTi to assuage the paroxysm of hunger by devouring her own young. It must be added, that, though the effluvium which is left by the footsteps of man is in general sufficient to induce Hons to avoid a ATllage, there are exceptions; so many came about our half-deserted houses at Chonuane while we were in the act of removing to Kolobeng, that the natives who remained with ]\Irs. Li\ingstone were terrified to stir out-of-doors in the evenings. Bitches also have been known to be guilty of the horridly unnatural act of eating their own young, probably from the great deshe for animal food, which is experienced by the inhabitants as well. AVhen a Hon is met in the daytime, a chcumstance by no means unfrequent to travellers in these parts, if preconceived notions do not lead them to expect something very " noble," or " majestic," they will see merely an animal somewhat larger than the biggest dog they ever saw, and partaking very strongly of the canine features ; the face is not much like the usual draA\iDgs of a Hon, the nose being prolonged like a dog's ; not exactly such as om- painters make it, though they might learn better at the Zoological Gardens ; then- ideas of majesty being usually shown by making their Hons' faces Hke old women in nightcaps. When encountered in the daytime, the Hon stands a second or two gazing, then turns slowly round, and walks as slowly away for a dozen paces, looking over his shoulder ; then begins to trot, and, when he thinks himself out of sight, bounds off Hke a greyhound. By day there is not, as a rule, the smaUest danger of Hons which are not molested attacking man, nor even on a clear moonHght night, except when they possess the breeding aro^yri (natural affection) ; this makes them brave almost any danger ; and if a 138 HABITS OF THE LION. Chap. YII. man happens to cross to the windward of them, both lion and lioness tnoU rush at liim, in the manner of a bitch with whelps. This does not often happen, as I only became aware of two or three instances of it. In one case a man, passing where the wind blew from him to the animals, was bitten before he could climb a tree ; and occasionally a man on horseback has been caught by the leg under the same circumstances. So general, however, is the sense of security on moordight nights that we seldom tied up our oxen, but let them lie loose by the waggons ; while on a dark rainy night, if a Hon is in the neighbourhood, he is ahnost sure to venture to kill an ox. His approach is always stealthy, except when wounded ; and any appearance of a trap is enough to cause him to refrain fr'om making the last spring. Tliis seems charac- teristic of the feline species ; when a goat is picketed in India for the purpose of enabling the huntsman to shoot a tiger by night, if on a plain, he would whip off the animal so quickly by a stroke of the paw that no one could take aim ; to obviate this, a small pit is dug, and the goat is picketed to a stake in the bottom ; a small stone is tied in the ear of the goat, which makes him cry the whole night. When the tiger sees the appearance of a trap, he walks round and round the pit, and allows the hunter, who is lying in wait, to have a fair shot. WHien a Hon is very hungry, and lying in wait, the sight of an animal may make him commence stalking it. In one case a man, while stealthily crawling towards a rhinoceros, happened to glance behind liim, and found to his horror a Hon stalking him ; he only escaped by springing up a tree like a cat. At Lopepe a lioness sprang on the after quarter of Mr. Oswell's horse, and when we came up to liim we found the marks of the claws on the horse, and a scratch on Mr. O.'s hand. The horse on feeling the lion on him sprang away, and the rider, caught by a wait-a- bit thorn, was brought to the ground and rendered insensible. His dogs saved him. Another English gentleman (Captain Cod- rington) was surprised in the same way, though not hunting the lion at the time, but turning round he shot him dead in the neck. By accident a horse belonging to Codringion ran away, but was stopped by the bridle catching a stump; there he remained a prisoner two days, and when found the whole space around was marked by the footprints of Hons. They had evi- Chap. VII. HABITS OF THE LION. 139 dently been afraid to attack the haltered horse from fear that it was a trap. Two lions came up by night to within three yards of oxen tied to a waggon, and a sheep tied to a tree, and stood roaring, but afraid to make a spring. On another occasion one of our party was lying sound asleep and unconscious of danger between two natives behind a bush at Mashue; the fire was nearly out at their feet in consequence of all being completely tired out by the fatigues of the previous day ; a lion came up to within three yards of the fire, and there commenced roaring instead of making a spring ; the fact of their riding-ox being tied to the bush was the only reason the lion had for not foUomng his instinct, and making a meal of flesh. He then stood on a knoll three hundred yards distant, and roared all night ; and continued his growling as the party moved off by daylight next morning. Nothing that I ever learned of the lion would lead me to attri- bute to it either the ferocious or noble character ascribed to it elsewhere. It possesses none of the nobility of the Newfoundland or St. Bernard dogs. With respect to its great strength there can be no doubt. The immense masses of muscle around its jaws, shoulders, and forearms, proclaim tremendous force. They would seem, however, to be inferior in power to those of the Indian tiger. Most of those feats of strength that I have seen performed by lions, such as the taldng away of an ox, were not carrying but dragging or trailing the carcase along the ground : they have sprung on some occasions on to the liind-quarters of a horse, but no one has ever seen them on the withers of a giraffe. They do not mount on the hind-quarters of an eland even, but try to tear him do"v\Ti with their claws. Messrs. Oswell and Vardon once saw three lions endeavouring to drag down a buffalo, and they were unable to do so for a time, though he was then mortally wounded by a two-ounce baU.* * This singular encounter, in ttie words of an eye-witness, happened as follows : — " My South African Journal is now before me, and I have got hold of the account of the lion and buffalo affair; here it is: — * 15th Sept. 1846. ' Oswell and I were riding this afternoon along the banks of the Limpopo, when ' a water-buck started in front of us. I dismounted, and was following it ' through the jungle, when three buffaloes got up, and, after going a little ' distance, stood still, and the nearest bull turned round and looked at me. A ' ball from the two-ouncer crashed into his shoulder, and they all three made 140 HABITS OF THE LIOX. Chap. VH. In general tlie lion seizes the animal lie is attacking by the flank near the hind leg, or by the throat below the jaw. It is questionable whether he ever attempts to seize an animal by the withers. The flank is the most common point of attack, and that is the part he begins to feast on first. The natives and lions are very similar in their tastes in the selection of tit-bits : an eland may be seen disembowelled by a lion, so completely, that he scarcely seems cut up at all. The bowels and fatty parts form a full meal for even the largest lion. The jackal comes sniffing about, and sometimes suffers for his temerity by a stroke from the lion's paw laying liim dead. When gorged, the lion falls fast asleep and is then easily despatched. Hunting a lion with dogs involves very little danger as compared with hunting the Indian tiger ; because the dogs bring him out of cover and make him stand at bay, giving the hunter plenty of time for a good deli- berate shot. Where game is abundant, there you may expect lions in propor- tionately large numbers. They are never seen in herds, but six or eight, probably one family, occasionally hunt together. One * off. Oswell and I followed as soon as I had reloaded, and when we w^ere in * sight of the buffalo, and gaining on him at every stride, three lions leapt on the * unfortunate brute ; he bellowed most lustily as he kept up a kind of running * fight ; but he was, of course, soon overpowered and pulled doAvn. We had a * fine view of the struggle, and saw the lions on their hind legs tearing away * with teeth and claws in most ferocious style. We crept up within thirty * yards, and, kneeling down, blazed away at the lions. My rifle was a single * barrel, and I had no spare gun. One lion fell dead almost on the buffalo ; * he had merely time to turn towards us, seize a bush with his teeth, and drop * dead with the stick in his jaws. The second made off immediately ; and * the third raised his head, coolly looked round for a moment, then went on * tearing and biting at the carcase as hard as ever. We retired a short distance * to load, then again advanced and fired. The lion made off, but a ball that he ' received ought to have stopped him, as it w^ent clean through his shoulder- * blade. He was followed up and killed, after having charged several times. * Both lions were males. It is not often that one hags a brace of lions and a * bull buffalo in about ten minutes. It was an exciting adventure, and I shall * never forget it.' " Such, my dear Livingstone, is the plain, unvarnished account. The buffalo had, of course, gone close to where the lions w^ere lying down for the day ; and they, seeing him lame and bleeding, thought the opportunity too good a one to be lost. i " Ever yours, " Frank Yardon." Chap. VII. HIS ROAE. 141 is in much more danger of being nm over wlien walking in tlie streets of London, than he is of being devom-ed by lions in Africa, imless engaged in hunting the animal. Indeed, nothing that T have seen or heard about lions would constitute a barrier in the way of men of ordinary courage and enterprise. The same feeling which has induced the modem painter to caricatm-e the lion, has led the sentimentalist to consider the lion's roar the most terrific of all earthly sounds. We hear of the " majestic roar of the king of beasts." It is, indeed, weU cal- culated to inspire fear if you hear it in combination with the tremendously loud thunder of that country, on a night so pitchy dark that every flash of the intensely vivid lightning leaves you with the impression of stone-blindness, while the rain pom-s down so fast that yo"ur fire goes out, leaving you without the protection of even a tree, or the chance of your gun going off. But when you are in a comfortable house or waggon, the case is very dif- ferent, and you hear the roar of the lion without any awe or alarm. The siUy ostrich makes a noise as loud, yet he never was feared by man. To talk of the majestic roar of the lion is mere majestic twaddle. On my mentioning this fact some years ago, the assertion was doubted, so I have been careful ever since to inquire the opinions of Europeans, who have heard both, if they could detect any difference between the roar of a lion and that of an ostrich ; the invariable answer was — that they could not when the animal was at any distance. The natives assert that they can detect a variation between the commencement of the noise of each. There is, it must be admitted, considerable difference between the singing noise of a lion when full and his deep gruff growl when hungry. In general the lion's voice seems to come deeper from the chest than that of the ostrich ; but to this day I can distinguish between them with certainty only by knowing that the ostrich roars by day and the lion by night. The African Hon is of a ta^Miy colour, Hke that of some mastiffs. The mane in the male is large, and gives the idea of great power. In some Hons the ends of the hair of the mane are black ; these go by the name of black-maned Hons, though as a whole aU look of the yeUow tawny colour. At the time of the discovery of the lake, Messrs. OsweU and Wilson shot two speci- mens of another variety. One was an old lion, whose teeth were U2 LIONS AND BUFFALOES. Chap. YII. mere stumps, and his claws worn quite blunt ; the other was full grown, in the prime of life, vdih wliite perfect teeth ; both were entirely destitute of mane. The lions, in the country near the lake, give tongue less than those further south. We scarcely ever heard them roar at all. The lion has other checks on inordinate increase besides man. He seldom attacks full-grown animals ; but frequently, when a buffalo calf is caught by him, the cow rushes to the rescue, and a toss from her often kills him. One we found was killed thus ; and on the Leeambye another, which died near Sesheke, had all the appearance of ha^ong received his death-blow from a buffalo.' It is questionable if a single lion ever attacks a frill-grown buffalo. The amount of roaring heard at night, on occasions when a buffalo is killed, seems to indicate there are always more than one lion engaged in the onslaught. On the plain, south of Sebituane's ford, a herd of buffaloes kept a number of hons from their young by the males turning their heads to the enemy. The young and the cows were in the rear. One toss from a bull would kill the strongest lion that ever breathed. I have been informed that in one part of India even the tame buffaloes feel thefr superiority to some void ani- mals, for they have been seen to chase a tiger up the hills, bel- lowing as if they enjoyed the sport. Lions never go near any elephants except the calves, which, when young, are sometimes torn by them ; every living thing retires before the lordly ele- phant, yet a full-grown one would be an easier prey than the rhinoceros ; the lion rushes off at the mere sight of this latter beast. In the country adjacent to Mashue great numbers of different kinds of mice exist. The ground is often so undermined with their burrows, that the foot sinks in at every step. Little hay- cocks, about two feet high, and rather more than that in breadth, are made by one variety of these Httle creatures. The same thing is done in regions annually covered with snow for obvious purposes, but it is diflScult here to divine the reason of the hay- making in the chmate of Africa.* * Euryotis unisulcatus (F. Cuvier), Mus pumelio (Spar.), and Mus lehocla (Smith), all possess this habit in a greater or less degree. The first-named may be seen escaping danger with its young banging to the after-part of its body. Chap. VII. SERPENTS. 143 ^Vherever mice abound, serpents may be expected, for the one preys on the other. A cat in a house is, therefore, a good pre- ventive against the entrance of these noxious reptiles. Occa- sionally, however, notmthstanding ever\^ precaution, they do find their way in, but even the most venomous sorts bite only when put into bodily fear themselves, or when trodden upon, or when the sexes come together. I once found a coil of sei-pents' skins, made by a number of them twisting together in the manner described by the Druids of old. When in the country, one feels nothing of that alarm and loathing which we may experience when sitting in a comfortable English room reading about them ; yet they are nasty things, and we seem to have an instinctive feeling against them. In making the door for our Mabotsa house, I happened to leave a small hole at the comer below. Eai-ly one morning a man came to call for some article I had promised. I at once went to the door, and, it being dark, trod on a serpent. The moment I felt the cold scaly sldn t^vine round a part of my leg my latent instinct was roused, and I jumped up higher than I ever did before, or hope to do again, shaking the reptile otf in the leap. I probably trod on it near the head, and so prevented it biting me, but did not stop to examine. Some of the serpents are particularly venomous. One was killed at Kolobeng of a dark brown, nearly black colour, 8 feet 3 inches long. This species (picakholu) is so copiously suppKed with poison, that, when a number of dogs attack it, the fii'st bitten ' dies almost instantaneously, the second in about five minutes, the third in an hour or so, while the fourth may live several hours. In a cattle-pen it produces great mischief in the same way. The one we killed at Kolobeng continued to distil clear poison from the fangs for hours after its head was cut off. This was probably that which passes by the name of the " spitting serpent," which is beheved to be able to eject its poison into the eyes when the wind favom's its forcible expiration. They all require water, and come long distances to the Zouga, and other rivei-s and pools, in search of it. We have another dangerous serpent — the puff adder — and several vipers. One, named by the inhabitants " Noga-put- sane," or serpent of a kid, utters a ciy by night exactly like the bleating of that animal. I heard one at a spot where no kid could possibly have been. It is supposed by the natives to lure 144 SEEPENTS — FASCINATION. Chap. VII. travellers to itself by tliis bleating. Several varieties, when alarmed, emit a pecuKar odom-, by wliich the people become aware of their presence in a house. We have also the cobra {Naia haje, Smith) of several colours or varieties. Wlien an- noyed, they raise then- heads up about a foot from the ground, and flatten the neck in a threatening manner, darting out the tongue and retracting it with gi-eat velocity, while their fixed glassy eyes glare as if in anger. There are also various species of the genus DendropMs, as the Bucephalus viridis, or gi-een tree- climber. They chmb trees in search of birds and eggs, and are soon discovered by all the bhds in the neighbom*hood coUectmg and sounding an alarm.* Then- fangs are formed not so much for * " As this snake, BucepJiaJus Capensis, in our opinion, is not provided with a poisonous fluid to instil into wounds which these fangs may inflict, they must consequently be intended for a purpose different to those which exist in poisonous reptiles. Their use seems to be to offer obstacles to the retrogression of animals, such as birds, &c., while they are only partially within the mouth ; and from the circumstance of these fangs being directed backwards, and not admitting of being raised so as to form an angle with the edge of the jaw, they are well fitted to act as powerful holders when once they penetrate the skin and soft parts of the prey which their possessors may be in the act of swallowing. Without such fangs escapes would be common ; with such they are rare. The natives of South Africa regard the Bucephalus Capensis as poisonous ; but in their opinion we cannot concur, as we have not been able to discover the existence of any glands manifestly organized for the secretion of poison. The fangs are enclosed in a soft, pulpy sheath, the inner surface of which is commonly coated with a thin glairy secretion. This secretion possibly may have something acrid and irritating in its qualities, which may, when it enters a wound, occasion pain and even swelling, but nothing of greater importance. *' The Bucephalus Capensis is generally found upon trees, to which it resorts for the purpose of catching birds, upon which it delights to feed. The presence of a specimen in a tree is generally soon discovered by the birds of the neigh- bourhood, who collect around it and fly to and fro, uttering the most piercing cries, until some one, more terror-struck than the rest, actually scans its lips, and, almost without resistance, becomes a meal for its enemy. During such a proceeding the snake is generally observed with its head raised about ten or twelve inches above the branch round which its body and tail are entwined, with its mouth open and its neck inflated, as if anxiously endeavouring to in- crease the terror which it would almost appear it was aware would sooner or later bring within its grasp some one of the feathered group. " Whatever maybe said in ridicule of fascination, it is nevertheless true that birds, and even quadrupeds, are, under certain circumstances, unable to retire from the presence of certain of their enemies ; and, what is even more extra- ordinary, unable to resist the projiensity to advance from a situation of actual CiiAP. yii. SEErENTS. 145 injecting poison on external objects as for keeping in any animal or bird of wliich they have got hold. In the case of the Basy- peltis inornatus (Smith) the teeth are small, and favom-able for the passage of thin-shelled eggs without breaking. The egg is taken in mibroken till it is H^^ithin the gullet or about 2 inches behind the head. The giilar teeth placed there break the shell without spiUing the contents, as would be the case if the front teeth were large. The shell is then ejected. Others appear to be harmless, and even edible. Of the latter sort is the large p}'thon, metse pallah, or tari. The largest specimens of this are about 15 or 20 feet in length ; they are perfectly harmless, and live on small animals, chiefly the rodentia ; occasionally the steinbuck and pallah fall victims, and are sucked into its com- paratively small mouth in boa-constrictor fashion. One we shot was 11 feet 10 inches long, and as tliick as a man's leg. AMien shot through the spine, it was capable of lifting itself up about five feet high, and opened its mouth in a thi-eatening manner, but the poor tiling was more inclined to crawl away. The flesh is much rehshed by the Bakalahari and Bushmen : they cany away each liis portion, like logs of wood, over their shoulders. Some of tlie Bayeiye we met at Sebituane's ford pre- tended to be unaffected by the bite of serpents, and showed the feat of lacerating their arms ^\dth the teeth of such as are un- ftu'nished ^\ith the poison-fangs. They also swallow the poison, by way of gaining notoriety ; but Dr. Andi-ew Smith put the sin- safety into one of the most imminent danger. This I have often seen exem- plified in the case of birds and snakes ; and I have heard of instances eqnally curious, in which antelopes and other quadrupeds have been so bewildered by the sudden appearance of crocodiles, and by the grimaces and contortions they practised, as to be unable to fly or even move from the spot towards which they were approaching to seize them." (Dr. Andrew Smith's * Reptilia.') In addition to these interesting statements of the most able naturalist from whom I have taken this note, it may be added that fire exercises a fascinating effect on some kinds of toads. They may be seen rushing into it in the evenings without ever starting back on feeling pain. Contact with the hot embers rather increases the energy with which they strive to gain the hottest parts, and they never cease their struggles for the centre even when their juices are coagulating and their limbs stiffening in the roasting heat. Various insects also are thus fascinated ; but the scorpions may be seen coming away from the fire in fierce disgust, and they are so irritated as to inflict at that time their most painful stings. L 146 THE " SECHU; Chap. YII. cerity of such persons to tlie test by offering tliem tlie fangs of a really poisonous variety, and found they shi-ank from the experiment. When we reached the Bamangwato, the chief Sekomi was par- ticularly fiiendly, collected all liis people to the religious services we held, and explained his reasons for compelling some Enghsh- men to pay him a horse. " They would not sell liim any powder, though they had plenty ; so he compelled them to give it and the horse for notliing. He would not deny the extortion to me ; that would be ^boherehere' (swindling)." He thus thought extortion better than swindling. I could not detect any difference in the morality of the two transactions, but Sekomi's ideas of honesty are the lowest I have met with in any Bechuana chief, and this instance is mentioned as the only approach to demanding pay- ment for leave to pass that I have met with in the South. In all other cases the difficulty has been to get a chief to give us men to show the Avay, and the payment has only been for guides. Englishmen have always very properly avoided giving that idea to the native mind which we shall hereafter find prove trouble- some, that pa}Tnent ought to be made for passage through a countiy. All the Bechuana and Caffre tribes south of the Zambesi practise circumcision [hognera), but the rites observed are care- fully concealed. The initiated alone can approach, but in tliis town I was once a spectator of the second part of the cere- mony of the circumcision, called " sechu." Just at the da^vn of day, a row of boys of nearly foiu^een years of age stood naked in the kotla, each having a pair of sandals as a shield on his hands. Facing them stood the men of the town in a similar state of nudity, all armed mth long tliin wands, of a tough, strong, supple bush called moretloa (Grewia flava), and engaged iu a dance named " koha," in wliich questions are put to the boys, as " Will you guard the chief well ? " " Will you herd the cattle well ? " and while the latter give an affirmative response, the men rush forward to them, and each aims a full-weight blow at the back of j one of the boys; shielduig himself mth the sandals above his head, he causes the supple wand to descend and bend iuto liis back, and every stroke inflicted thus makes the blood squu-t out of a wound a foot or eighteen inches long. At. the end of the. Chap. YII. THE " BOGUEEA." 147 dance, the boys' backs are seamed witli wounds and weals, the scars of which remain thi'ough life. This is intended to harden the young soldiers, and prepare them for the rank of men. After this ceremony, and after killing a rhinoceros, they may marry a wife. In the " koha " the same respect is shown to age as in many other of their customs. A younger man, rusliing from the ranks to exercise his wand on the backs of the youths, may be him- self the object of chastisement by the older, and, on the occasion referred to, Sekomi received a severe cut on the leg fr'om one of his gi'ey-haired people. On my joldng with some of the young men on their want of courage, notwithstanding all the beatmgs of wliich they bore marks, and liinting that our soldiers were brave without suffering so much, one rose up and said, " Ask him if, when he and I were compelled by a lion to stop and make a fire, I did not lie down and sleep as well as himself." In other parts a challenge to try a race would have been given, and you may frequently see grown men adopting that means of testing superiority, like so many cliildi-en. The sechu is practised by three tribes only. Boguera is ob- served by all the Bechuanas and Caffres, but not by the negTO tribes beyond 20° south. The " bogiiera " is a civil rather than a religious rite. All the boys of an age between ten and four- teen or fifteen are selected to be the companions for life of one of the sons of the chief. They are taken out to some retired spot in the forest, and huts are erected for their accommodation ; the old men go out and teach them to dance, initiating them, at the same time, into all the mysteries of African politics and government. Each one is expected to compose an oration in praise of himself, called a " leina " or name, and to be able to repeat it with sufficient fluency. A good deal of beating is required to bring them up to the required excellency in different matters, so that, when they retmii from the close seclusion m which they are kept, they have generally a number of scai's to show on their backs. These bands or regiments, named mepato in the plm-al and mopato in the singular, receive par- ticular appellations ; as, the Matsatsi — ^the suns ; the Mabusa — the rulers ; equivalent to our Coldstreams or Enniskillens ; and though li\ing in different parte of the town, they turn out at the L 2 148 CEKEMOXIES OF AFRICAN TRIBES. Chap. VII. call, and act under the cliief 's son as tlieir commander. They recognise a sort of equality and partial communism ever after- wards, and address each other by the title of molekane or com- rade. In cases of offence against tlieir rules, as eatmg alone when any of then- comrades are within call, or in cases of cowardice or dereliction of duty, they may strike one another, or any member of a younger mopato, but never any one of an older band ; and when thi-ee or four companies have been made, the oldest no longer takes the field in time of war, but remains as a gTiai'd over the women and children. Allien a fugitive comes to a tribe, he is directed to the mopato analogous to that to which in his oto tribe he belongs, and does duty as a member. No one of the natives knows how old he is. If asked his age he answers by putting another question — " Does a man remember when he was born ? " Age is reckoned by the number of mepato they have seen pass through the formiJae of admission. ^Mien they see four or five mepato younger than themselves they are no longer obliged to bear arms. The oldest individual I ever met boasted he had seen eleven sets of boys submit to the bogaiera. Supposing him to have been fifteen when he saw liis own, and fi-esh bands were added every six or seven years, he must have been about forty Avhen he saw the fifth, and may have attained seventy-five or eighty yeai's, which is no gTeat age; but it seemed so to them, for he had now doubled the age for superannuation among them. It is an ingenious plan for attaching the members of the tribe to the chief's family, and for imparting a discipline wliich rendei*s the tribe easy of command. On their retm-n to the town from attend- ance on the ceremonies of initiation, a prize is given to the lad who can run fastest, the article being placed where all may see the winner run up to snatch it. They ai-e then considered men (banona, viri), and can sit among the elders in the kotla. For- merly they were only boys (basimane, pueri). The first mis- sionaries set their faces against the boguera, on account of its connection mth heathenism, and the fact that the youths learned much evil, and became disobedient to then- pai'ents. From the general success of these men, it is perhaps better that younger missionaries should tread ui their footsteps; for so much e\il may result from breaking do™ the authority on which, to those Chap. VII. " BOYALE "— BAMANGWATO HILLS. 149 who cannot read, tlie whole system of our influence appears to rest, that iimovators ought to be made to propose their new measures as the Locrians did new laws — with ropes around their necks. Probably the "boguera" was only a sanitary and political measm-e ; and there being no continuous chain of tribes practising the rite between the Ai'abs and the Bechuanas, or Caffres, and as it is not a rehgious ceremony, it can scarcely be traced, as is often done, to a Mahometan som-ce. A somewhat analogous ceremony (boyale) takes place for young women, and the protegees appear abroad drilled under the surveillance of an old lady to the carrying of water. They are clad during the whole time in a dress composed of ropes made of alternate pumpkin-seeds and bits of reed strung together, and wound round the body in a figiu^e-of-eight fashion. They are inured in this way to bear fatigue, and carry large pots of water under the guidance of the stem old hag. They have often scars from bits of burning charcoal having been applied to the forearm, which must have been done to test their power of bearing pain. The Bamangwato hills are part of the range called Bakaa. The Bakaa tribe, however, removed to Kolobeng, and is now joined to that of Sechele. The range stands about 700 or 800 feet above the plains, and is composed of great masses of black basalt. It is probably part of the latest series of volcanic rocks in South Africa. At the eastern end these liills have ciu-ious fungoid or cup-shaped hollows, of a size which suggests the idea of craters. Within these are masses of the rock crystallized in the columnar form of this formation. The tops of the columns are quite distinct, of the hexagonal form, like the bottom of the cells of a honeycomb, but they are not parted from each other as in the Cave of Fingal. In many parts the lava-streams may be recognised, for there the rock is rent and split in every direction, but no soil is yet found in the interstices. When we were sitting in the evening, after a hot day, it was quite common to hear these masses of basalt split and faU among each other -with the peculiar ringing sound which makes people believe that this rock contains much iron. Several lai'ge masses, in sj)litting thus by the cold acting suddenly on parts expanded by the heat of the day, have sKpped do^\ll the sides of the hiUs, and, impmging 150 THE UNICORN'S PASS. ClIAP. VII. against each other, have formed cavities in which the Bakaa took refuge against their enemies. The numerous chinks and cran- nies left by these huge fragments made it quite impossible for their enemies to smoke them out, as was done by the Boers to the people of Mankopane. Tliis mass of basalt, about six miles long, has tilted up the rocks on both the east and west ; these upheaved rocks are the ancient silurian scliists which formed the bottom of the great primaeval valley, and like all the recent volcanic rocks of this country have a hot fountain in their vicinity, namely, that of Serinane. In passing through these hills on our way north we enter a pass named Manakalongwe, or Unicorn's Pass. The unicorn here is a large edible caterpillar, mth an erect hom-like tail. The pass was also called Porapora (or gm^gling of water), fr-om a stream having run through it. The scene must have been very different in former times fr'om what it is now. Tliis is part of the river Mahalapi, which so-called river scarcely merits the name, any more than the meadows of Edinburgh deserve the title of North Loch. These lulls are the last we shall see for months. The country beyond consisted of large patches of trap- covered tufa, having little soil or vegetation except tufts of grass and wait-a-bit thorns, in the midst of extensive sandy grass-covered plaius. These yellow-coloured grassy plains, with moretloa and mahatla bushes, form quite a characteristic featm'e of the country. The yellow or dun-coloiu- prevails during a great part of the year. The Baltwaiti hills are an exception to the usual flat surface, for they are covered with gTeen trees to their tops, and the valleys ai-e often of the most lovely green. The trees are larger too, and even the plains of the Bakwain country contain trees instead of bushes. If you look north from the hills we are now leaviug, the country partakes of this latter character. It appears as if it were a flat covered with a forest of ordinary- sized trees from 20 to 30 feet high, but when you travel over it they are not so closely planted but that a waggon with care may be guided among them. The grass grows in tufts of the size of one's hat, with bare soft sand between. Nowhere here have we an approach to English lawns, or the pleasing appearance of English greensward. CiiAr. YII. MR. GORDON GUMMING. 151 In no part of tliis country conld European grain be cultivated without iiTigation. The natives all cultivate the doun'ha or holcus sorghum, maize, pumpkins, melons, cucumbers, and different kinds of beans ; and they are entirely dependent for the growth of these on rains. Their instrument of culture is the hoe, and the chief labour falls on the female portion of the com- munity. In tliis respect the Bechuanas closely resemble the Caffres. The men engage in hunting, milk the cows, and have the entire control of the cattle ; they prepare the skins, make the clothing, and in many respects may be considered a nation of tailors. When at Sekomi's we generally have heard his praises sounded by a man who rises at break of day and utters at the top of his voice the oration which that ruler is said to have composed at liis boguera. This repetition of his " leina," or oration, is so pleasing to a chief that he generally sends a handsome present to the man who does it. January — ^Passing on to Letloche, about twenty miles beyond the Bamangwato, we found a fine supply of water. This is a point of so much interest in that country that the first ques- tion we ask of passers by is " Have you had water ? " the first inquiry a native puts to a fellow-countr}Tnan is " "\ATiere is the rain ? " and, though they are by no means an untruthfid nation, the answer generally is, " I don't know — there is none — we are killed with hunger and by the sun." If news is asked for, they commence with " There is no news, I heard some Lies only," and then tell all they Imow. Tliis spot was IVIr. Gordon Cumming's furthest station north. Our house at Kolobeng having been quite in the hunting- country, rhinoceros and buffaloes several times rushed past, and I was able to shoot the latter twice from our own door. We were favoured by visits from this famous hunter dming each of the five years of his warfare with wild animals. Many EngHsh gentlemen following the same pursuits paid their guides and assistants so punctually that in making arrangements for them we had to be careful that four did not go where two only were wanted : they Imew so well that an Englishman would pay that they depended implicity on liis word of honom-, and not only would they go and hunt for five or six months in the north, 152 SPORTING. Chap. YII- euduring all tlie hardships of that trying mode of life, with little else but meat of game to subsist on, but they T\illingly went seven hundred or eight hundred miles to Graham's Town, receiv- mg for wages only a musket, worth fifteen sliillings. No one ever deceived them except one man ; and as I believed that he was afflicted with a slight degree of the insanity of greedi- ness, I upheld the honour of the English name by pa}Tng his debts. As the guides of Mr. Cummuig were furnished through my influence, and usually got some strict charges as to their behaviom before partmg, lookuig upon me in the Hght of a father, they always came to give me an account of then- service, and told most of those hunting adventm-es which have since been given to the world, before we had the pleasure of hearing our friend relate them liimself by our o^Yn. fireside. I had thus a tolerably good oppoi-timity of testing then- accm-acy, and I have no hesitation in saying that for those who love that sort of tiling Mr. Cumming's book conveys a truthful idea of South African huntmg. Some things in it require explanation, but the nmnbers of animals said to have been met with and killed are by no means improbable, considering the amoimt of large game then in the country. Two other gentlemen hunting m the same region destroyed in one season no fewer than seventy-eight rhinoceroses alone. Sportsmen, however, would not now find an equal number, for as guns are introduced among the tribes all these fine animals melt away like snow in S23ring. In the more remote districts where fire-arms have not yet been introduced, with the smgle exception of the rliinoceros, the game is to be found in niunbers much greater than IMr. Cimiming ever saw. The tsetse is, however, an insuperable barrier to hunting with horses there, and Em-opeans can do nothing on foot. The step of the elephant when chargmg the hunter, though apparently not quick, is so long that the pace equals the speed of a good horse at a canter. A young sportsman, no matter how great among pheasants, foxes, and hounds, would do well to pause before resolving to brave fever for the excitement of risldng such a terrific charge ; the scream, or trumpeting, of tliis enormous brute Avhen infuriated is more like what the shriek of a French steam-whistle would be to a man standing on the dangerous part of a railroad, than any other earthly soimd : a horse unused to it will sometimes stand Chap. VH. SCARCITY OF WATER— THE OSTRICH. 153 sliivering instead of taking liis rider out of danger. It has hap- pened often that the poor animal's legs do their duty so badly that he falls and exposes his rider to be trodden into a mummy ; or, losing his presence of mind, the rider may allow the horse to dash imder a tree and crack his cranium agamst a branch. As one charge from an elephant has made embr^^o Nimrods bid a final adieu to the chace, incipient Gordon Cummings might try their nerves by standing on railways till the engines were T\ithin a few yards of them. Huntmg elephants on foot would be not less dangerous,* miless the Ceylon mode of killmg them by one shot could be followed : it has never been tried in Africa. Advancing to some wells beyond Letloche, at a spot named Kanne, we found them carefully hedged round by the people of a Bakalahari village situated near the spot. We had then sixty miles of country in front mthout water, and very distressmg for the oxen, as it is generally deep soft sand. There is one sucking- place, around wliich were congi-egated great numbers of Bush- women with their egg-shells and reeds. Mathuluane now con- tained no water, and Motlatsa only a small supply, so we sent the oxen across the country to the deep well Nkauane, and half were lost on the way. When found at last they had been five whole days without water. Very large numbers of elands were met with as usual, though they seldom can get a sip of drinlv. Many of the plains here have large expanses of grass mtliout trees, but you seldom see a treeless horizon. The ostrich is generally seen quietly feeduig on some spot where no one can approach liim without being detected by his wary eye. As the waggon moves along far to the windward he thinks it is intending to cu'cmnvent him, so he rushes up a mile or so from the lee- ward, and so near to the front oxen that one sometimes gets a shot at the silly bird. \Mien he begins to run all the game in sight follow his example. I have seen tliis folly taken advantage of when he was quietly feeding in a valley open at both ends. A number of men would commence running, as if to cut off his retreat from the end tlu'ough wliich the wind came ; and although he had the whole country hundreds of miles before him by going * Since writing tlie above statement it has received confirmation in the reported death of Mr. Walhberg while hunting elephants on foot at Lake Ngami. 154 THE OSTRICH. Chap. VII. to the otter end, on lie madly nislied to get past the men, and so was speared. He never swerves from the course he once adopts, but only increases his speed. When the ostrich is feeding his pace is from twenty to twenty- two inches; when walking, but not feeding, it is twenty-six inches ; and when terrified, as in the case noticed, it is from eleven and a half to thirteen and even fourteen feet in length. Only in one case was I at all satisfied of being able to count the rate of speed by a stop watch, and, if I am not mistaken, there were tldrty in ten seconds; generally one's eye can no more follow the legs than it can the spokes of a carriage-wheel in rapid motion. If we take the above number, and twelve feet stride as the average pace, we have a speed of twenty-six miles an hour. It cannot be very much above that, and is therefore slower than a railway locomotive. They are sometimes shot by the horseman making a cross cut to their undeviating course, but few English- men ever succeed in Idlling them. The ostrich begins to lay her eggs before she has fixed on a spot for a nest, which is only a hollow a few inches deep in the sand, and about a yard in diameter. Solitary eggs, named by the Bechuanas " lesetla," are thus found lying forsaken all over the coTmtry, and become a prey to the jackal. She seems averse to risking a spot for a nest, and often lays her eggs in that of another ostrich, so that as many as forty-five have been found in one nest. Some eggs contain, small concretions of the matter which forms the shell, as occurs also in the egg of the common fowl ; tliis has given rise to the idea of stones in the eggs. Both male and female assist in the incubations ; but the numbers of females being always greatest, it is probable that cases occur in which the females have the entire charge. Several eggs lie out of the nest, and are thought to be intended as food for the first of the newly-hatched brood till the rest come out and enable the whole to start in quest of food. I have several times seen newly-hatched young in charge of the cock, who made a very good attempt at appearing lame in the plover fashion, in order to draw off the attention of pmsuers. The young squat down and remain im- movable when too small to run far, but attain a wonderful degree of speed when about the size of common fowls. It cannot be Chap. VII. THE OSTRICH. 155 asserted that ostriches are polygamous, though they often appear to be so. When caught they are easily tamed, but are of no use in their domesticated state. The egg is possessed of very great vital power. One kept in a room dm-ing more than three months, in a temperature about 60°, when broken was found to have a partially developed live cliick in it. The Buslmien carefully avoid toucliing the eggs, or leaving marks of human feet near them, when they find a nest. They go up the wind to the spot, and with a long stick remove some of them occasionally, and, by preventing any suspicion, keep the hen laying on for months, as we do with fowls. The eggs have a strong disagreeable flavour, which only the keen appetite of the Desert can reconcile one to. The Hottentots use their trousers to carry home the twenty or twenty-five eggs usually found in a nest ; and it has happened that an English- man, intending to imitate this knowing dodge, comes to the waggons with bhstered legs, and, after gTcat toil, finds all the eggs imeatable, from having been some time sat upon. Om' countrymen invariably do best when they continue to think, speak, and act in their own proper character. The food of the ostrich consists of pods and seeds of different kinds of leguminous plants, with leaves of various plants ; and, as these are often hard and dry, he picks up a great quantity of pebbles, many of which are as large as marbles. He picks up also some small bulbs, and occasionally a wild melon to afford moisture, for one was found with a melon which had choked him by sticking in his tlu-oat. It requires the utmost address of the Bushmen, crawling for miles on their stomachs, to stalk them successfully ; yet the quantity of feathers collected annually shows that the numbers slain must be considerable, as each bird has only a few in the wings and tail. The male bird is of a jet black glossy colour, with the single exception of the white feathers, wliich are objects of trade. Nothing can be finer than the adaptation of these flossy feathers for the climate of the Kalahari, where these bnds abound; for they afford a perfect shade to the body, with free ventilation beneath them. The hen ostrich is of a dark brownish-grey colour, and so are the half- gTown cocks. 156 THE OSTEICH. Chap. VII. The organs of vision in tliis bird are placed so high that he can detect an enemy at a great distance, but the lion somettmes kills him. The flesh is white and coarse, though, when in good con- dition, it resembles in some degree that of a tough turkey. It seeks safety in flight ; but when pm^sued by dogs it may be seen to turn upon them and inflict a kick, which is vigorously applied, and sometimes breaks the dog's back. Chap. VIII. EFFECTS OF MISSIONARY EFFORTS. 157 CHAPTEE VIII. Effects of missionaiy efforts — Belief in tlie Deity — Ideas of the Bakwains on religion — Departure from their country — Salt-pans — Sour curd — Kchokotsa — Bitter waters — Thirst suffered hy the wild animals — Wanton cnielty in hunting — Ntwetwe — Mowana-trees — Their ex- traordinary vitality — The Mopane-tree — The Morala — The Bushmen — Then- superstitions — Elephant-hunting — Superiority of civilised over barbarous sportsmen — The chief Kaisa — His fear of responsibility — Beauty of the country at Unku — The Mohonono bush — Severe labour in cutting our way — Party seized with fever — Escape of our cattle — Bakwain mode of recapturing them — Vagaries of sick servants — Dis- covery of grape-bearing vines — An ant-eater — Difficulty of passing through the forest — Sickness of my companion — The Bushmen — Their mode of destroying lions — Poisons — The solitary hill — A pic- turesque valley — Beauty of the country — Arrive at the Sanshureh river — The flooded prairies — A pontooning expedition — A night bivouac — The Chobe — Arrive at the village of Moremi — Surprise of the Makololo at our sudden appearance — Cross the Chobe on our way to Linyanti. The Bakalahari, who Kve at Motlatsa wells, have always been very friendly to us, and listen attentively to instruction conveyed to them in their own tongue. It is, however, cUfficult to give an idea to an European of the little effect teacliing produces, because no one can realize the degradation to wliich then minds have been sunk by centuries of barbarism and hard struggling for the necessaries of Hfe : like most others, they listen with /espect and attention, but, when we kneel down and address an unseen Being, the position and the act often appear to them so ridicu- lous that they cannot refrain from bursting into uncontrollable laughter. After a few services they get over tins tendency. I was once present when a missionary attempted to sing among a wild heathen tribe of Bechuanas, who had no music in then* com- position ; the effect on the risible faculties of the audience >vas such that the tears actually ran dowTi their cheeks. Nearly all their thoughts are directed to the supply of their bodily wants, and tliis has been the case with the race for ages. If asked, then, what effect the preaching of the Gospel has at the commence- ment on such individuals, I am unable to teU, except that some 158 RELIGIOUS IDEAS OF BAK^'AIXS. Chap. VIII. have confessed long afterwards that they then fii'st began to pray- in secret. Of the effects of a long-continued coui'se of instruction there can be no reasonable doubt, as mere nominal belief has never been considered sufficient proof of conversion by any body of missionaries ; and, after the change which has been brought about by this agency, we have good reason to hope well for the future : those I have myself witnessed beha^-ing in the manner described, when kindly treated in sickness often utter imjDloring words to Jesus, and I believe sometimes really do pray to him in their afflictions. As that gTcat Redeemer of the guilty seeks to saA^e all he can, we may hope that they find mercy through His blood, though Kttle able to appreciate the sacrifice He made. The indirect and scarcely appreciable blessiogs of Chiistian mis- sionaries going about douig good are thus probably not so despi- cable as some might imagine ; there is no necessity for beginning to tell even the most degi-aded of these people of the existence of a God, or of a future state, the facts being universally admitted. Everytliing that cannot be accoimted for by common causes is ascribed to the Deity, as creation, sudden death, &c. " How curiously God made these things !" is a conmion expression ; as is also, " He was not killed by disease, he was killed by God." And, sxlien speaking of the departed — though there is nought iq the physical appearance of the dead to justify the expression — they say, " He has gone to the gods," the phrase bemg identical with " abiit ad plures" On questioning intelligent men among the Bakwains as to theu' former knowledge of good and evil, of God, and the future state, they have scouted the idea of any of them ever having been without a tolerably clear conception on all these subjects. Eespecting their sense of right and wrong, they profess that nothing we indicate as sin ever appeared to them as othenrise, except the statement that it was wrong to have more wives than one ; and they declare that they spoke in the same way of the direct influence exercised by God in g'iving rain in answer to prayers of the rain-makers, and in granting deliverance in times of danger, as they do now, before they ever heard of white men. The want, however, of any form of public worship, or of idols, or of formal prayers or sacrifice, make both Caffres and Bechuanas appear as among the most godless races of mortals known any- Chap. VIII. LEAVE BAKWAIN COUXTEY. 159 where. But, though they all possess a distinct knowledge of a deity and of a futui*e state, they show so Httle reverence, and feel so little connexion with either, that it is not surprising that some have supposed them entirely ignorant on the subject. At Lotla- kani we met an old Bushman who at fii'st seemed to have no conception of morality whatever ; when liis heai*t was warmed by om- presents of meat, he sat by the fii-e relating his early adven- tm'es: amone: these was killino: five other Bushmen. "Two," said he, counting on his fijigers, " were females, one a male, and the other two calves." — "A^Tiat a villain you are to boast of killing women and children of yom- own nation ! what will God say when you appear before him ?" — " He \\ill say," repKed he, " that I was a very clever fellow." This man now appeared to me as without any conscience, and, of course, responsibility, but, on tr}'ing to enlighten him by fm-ther conversation, I discovered that, though he was emplo}ang the word wliich is used among the Bakwains when spealdng of the Deity, he had only the idea of a chief, and was all the Tshile referring to Sekomi, wliile his victims were a party of rebel Bushmen against whom he had been sent. If I had known the name of God in the Busliman tongue the mistake could scarcely have occmi-ed. It must, however, be recollected, while reflecting on the degradation of the natives of South Afiica, that the farther north, the more distinct do the native ideas on religious subjects become, and I have not had any intercom'se with either Caf&.*es or Bushmen in their own tongues. Leaving Motlatsa on the 8th February, 1853, we passed down the Mokoko, which, in the memory of persons now living, was a flowing stream. We ourselves once saw a heavy thunder- shower make it assume its ancient appearance of running to the nortk Between Lotlakani and Kchokotsa we passed the small well named Orapa; and another called Thutsa lay a little to our right — its water is salt and purgative ; the salt-pan Chuantsa, ha\TQg a cake of salt one inch and a half in thickness, is about ten miles to the north-east of Orapa. This deposit contahis a bitter salt in addition, probably the nitrate of lime ; the natives, in order to render it palatable and wholesome, mix the salt with the juice of a gummy plant, then place it in the sand and bake it by making a fire over it ; the lime then becomes insoluble and tasteless. 160 XCHOKOTSA— BITTER WATERS. Chap. Till. The Bamangwato keep large flocks of sheep and goats at various spots on this side of the Desert. They thrive wonder- fully well wherever salt and bushes are to be found. The milk of goats does not coagulate with facility, like that of cows, on account of its richness ; but the natives have discovered that the infusion of the fruit of a solanaceous plant, Toluape, quickly produces the effect. The Becliuanas put their milk into sacks made of untanned hide, with the hair taken off. Hung in the sun, it soon coagulates ; the whey is then draw^n off by a plug at the bottom, and fi-esh milk added, until the whole sack is fall of a thick sour cm-d, which, when one becomes used to it, is dehcious. The rich mix tliis in the porridge into which they convert their meal, and, as it is thus rendered nutritious and strength-giving, an expression of scorn is sometimes heard re- specting the poor or weak, to the effect that "they are mere water-23orridge men." It occupies the place of our roast beef. At Nchokotsa, the rainy season having this year been delayed beyond the usual time, we found during the day the thermo- meter stand at 96° in the coolest possible shade. This height at Kolobeng always portended rain at hand. At Kuruman, when it rises above 84°, the same phenomenon may be considered near ; while farther north it rises above 100° before the cooling influence of the evaporation from rain may be expected. Here the bulb of the thermometer, placed two inclies beneath the soil, stood at 128°. All around Nchokotsa the country looked parched, and the glare from the white efflorescence which covers the extensive pans on all sides was most distressing to the eyes. The water of Xchokotsa w^as bitter, and presented indications not to be mistaken of having passed through animal systems before. All these waters contain nitrates, wliich stimulate the kidneys and increase the thu'st. The fresh additions of \^•ater required in cooking meat, each imparting its own j^ortion of salt, make one grumble at the cook for putting too much seasoning in, whilst in fact he has put in none at all, except that contained in the water. Of bitter, bad, disgusting waters I have drunk not a few nauseous draughts ; you may try alum, vitriol, boihng, &c. &c., to convince yourself that you are not more stupid than travellers you will meet at home, but the ammonia and other Chap. YIII. CRUELTY OF HUNTERS. 161 salts are there still; and tlie only remedy is to get a\yay as quickly as possible to tlie north. We dug out several weUs ; and as we had on each occasion to wait till the water flowed in again, and then allow our cattle to feed a day or two and slake their thirst thorougldy, as far as that coidd be done, before starting, our progress was but slow. At Koobe there was such a mass of mud in the pond, worked up by the waUo\^ing rhinoceros to the consistency of mortar, that only by great labour could we get a space cleared at one side, for the water to ooze tln-ough and collect in for the oxen. Should the rhinoceros come back, a single roll in the gi'eat mass we had thrown on one side would have rendered all our labour Tain. It was therefore necessary for us to guard the spot by night. On these great flats all around we saw in the white sultry glare herds of zebras, gnus, and occasionally bujSaloes, standing for days, lookmg wistfuUy towards the wells for a share of the nasty water. It is mere wanton cruelty to take advantage of the neces- sities of these poor animals, and shoot them do\Mi one after another, without intending to make the smallest use of either the flesh, skins, or horns. In shooting by night, animals are more frequently wounded than killed ; the flowing hfe-stream increases the thirst, so that in desperation they come slowly up to drink in spite of the danger, — " I must di'ink, though I die." The ostrich, even when not wounded, cannot ^-ith all h's wariness resist the excessive desii-e to slake liis burning thirst. It is Bushman-like practice to take advantage of its piteous neces- sities ; for most of the feathers they obtain are procured in this way, but they eat the flesh, and are so far justifiable. I could not order my men to do what I would not do myself; but, though I tried to justify myself on the plea of necessity, I could not adopt tliis mode of hunting. If your object is to secure the best specimens for a museum it may be allowable, and even deserving of commendation, as evincmg a deshe to kill only those really wanted; but if, as has been practised by some Griquas and others who came into the country after Mr. Gum- ming, and fired away indiscriminately, great nimibers of animals are wounded and allowed to perish miserably, or are killed on tlie spot and left to be preyed on by cultures and hyaenas, and all for the sole purpose of making a " bag," then I take it to be M 162 VITALITY OF THE MOW ANA-TREE. Chap. YIII. evident tliat such sportsmen are pretty far gone in tlie hunting form of insanity. My men shot a black rhinoceros in this Avay, and I felt glad to get away from the only place in wliich I ever had any share in night-hunting. We passed over the immense pan Ntwetwe, on wliich the latitude could be taken as at sea. Great tracts of tliis part of the country are of calcareous tufa, with only a thin coating of soil ; numbers of " baobab " and " mopane " trees abound all over this hard smooth surface. About two miles beyond the northern bank of the pan we unyoked under a fine specimen of the baobab, here called, in the language of Bechuanas, Mowana ; it consisted of six branches united into one trunk. At tliree feet from the ground it was eighty-five feet in cu'cumference. These mowana-trees are the most wonderful examples of vitaHty in the country ; it w^as therefore with surprise that we came upon a dead one at Tlomtla, a few nules beyond this spot. It is the same as those which Adanson and others behoved, from specimens seen in Western Africa, to have been ahve before the flood. Arguing mth a pecuKar mental idiosyncracy resembling colour- bhndness, common among the French of the time, these savans came to the conclusion that " therefore there never was any flood at all." I would back a true mowana against a dozen floods, pro- vided you do not boil it in hot sea-water ; but I cannot believe that any of those now ahve had a chance of being subjected to the experiment of even the Noacliian deluge. The natives make a strong cord from the fibres contained in the pounded bark. The whole of the trunk, as liigh as they can reach, is consequently often quite denuded of its covering, which in the case of almost any other tree w^ould cause its death, but this has no efi*ect on the mowana except to make it thi'ow out a new bark, which is done in the way of granulation. This stripping of the bark is repeated frequently, so that it is common to see the lower five or six feet an inch or two less in diameter than the parts above ; even portions of the bark which have broken in the process of being taken off, but remain separated from the parts below, though still connected with the tree above, continue to gxow, and resemble closely marks made in the necks of the cattle of the island of Mull and of Cafire oxen, where a piece of sliin is detached and allo^^ ed to hang down. No Chap. YIII. VITALITY OF THE MOWANA-TEEE. 163 external injury, not even a fire, can destroy this tree from ^^'ithont ; nor can any injury be done from mthin, as it is quite common to find it hollow ; and I have seen one in wliich twenty or thirty men could Ke down and sleep as in a hut. Nor does cutting do^\'n exterminate it, for I saw instances in Angola in which it continued to grow in length after it was lying on the gi'ound. Those trees called exogenous grow by means of successive layers on the outside. The inside may be dead, or even removed altogether, mthout affecting the life of the tree. This is the case with most of the trees of om' climate. The other class is called endogenous, and increases by layers applied to the inside ; and when the hollow there is full, the gi'owth is stopped — the tree must die. An}^ injury is felt most severely by the first class on the bark — by the second on the inside ; while the inside of the exogenous may be removed, and the outside of the endogenous may be cut, without stopping the growth in the least. The mowana possesses the powers of both. The reason is that each of the laminae possesses its own independent vitaHty ; in fact, the baobab is rather a gigantic bulb run up to seed than a tree. Each of eighty-fom- concentric rings had, in the case mentioned, grown an inch after the tree had been blown over. The roots, which may often be observed extending along the surface of the ground forty or fifty yards fr-om the trunk, also retain their \'itahty after the tree is laid low ; and the Portuguese now know that the best way to treat them is to let them alone, for they occupy much more room when cut down than when gTOwing. The wood is so spongy and soft, that an axe can be struck in so far with, a good blow that there is great difficulty in pulling it out ao^ain. In the dead mowana mentioned the concentric rinpfs were well seen. The average for a foot at tlu-ee different places was eighty-one and a half of these rings. Each of the lammse can be seen to be composed of two, tln-ee, or four layers of hgneous tubes ; but supposing each ring the gl'o^^i:h of one year, and the semidiameter of a mowana of one hundred feet in circimiference about seventeen feet, if the central point were in the centre of the tree, then its age would lack some centuries of being as old as the Christian era (1400). Though it possesses amazing vitahty, it is difficult to beheve that this great baby-looking bulb or tree is as old as the pjTamids. M 2 164 THE MOPANE-TREE. Chap. YIII. The Mopane-tree (Baiihinia) is remarkable for the little shade its leaves afford. They fold together and stand nearly perpen- I^Iopane or Baubinia leaves, with the insect and its edible secretions. diciilar dining the heat of the day, so that only the shadow of then* edges comes to the ground. On these leaves the small larvae of a winged insect appear covered over with, a sweet gummy sub- stance. The j)eople collect this in gi-eat quantities, and use it as food ;* and the lopane — large caterpillars tlu-ee inches long, which feed on the leaves^ and are seen strimg together — share the same fate. * I am favoured witli IMr. Westv;ood's remarks on this insect as follows : — " Taylor Institution, Oxford, July 9, 1857. " The insect (and its secretion) on the leaves of the Baiihinia, and which is eaten by the Africans, proves to be a species of Psylla, a genus of small very active Homoptera, of which we have one very common species in the box ; but our species, P. buxi, emits its secretion in the shape of very long white cotton- like filaments ; but there is a species in New Holland, found on the leaves of the Eucalyptus, which emits a secretion very similar to that of Dr. Livingstone's species. This Australian secretion (and its insect originator) is known by the name of Wo-me-la, and, like Dr. Livingstone's, it is scraped off the leaves and eaten by the aborigines as a saccharine dainty. The insects found beneath the secretion, brought home by Dr. Livingstone, are in the pupa state, being flattened, with large scales at the sides of the body, enclosing the future wings of the insect. The body is pale yellowish coloured, with dark -brown spots. It will be impossible to describe the species technically until we receive the perfect insect. The secretion itself is flat and circular, apparently deposited in concentric rings, gradually increasing in size till the patches are about a quarter or a third of an inch in diameter. " Jno. 0. West WOOD." ClIAP. VIII. MORALA-TREE— BUSHMEN. 165 In passing along we see ever}^vliere the power of vegetation in breaking np tlie enter crust of tufa. A mopane-tree, growing in a smaU cliink, as it increases in size rends and Lifts np large fragments of the rock aU around it, subjecting them to the dis- integrating influence of the atmosphere. The wood is hard, and of a fine red colour, and is named u-on-wood by the Portuguese. The inhabitants, observing that the mopane is more frequently struck by hghtning than other trees, caution travellers never to seek its shade when a thunder-storm is near — " Lightning hates it ;" while another tree, the " Morala," which has tliree spines opposite each other on the branches, and has never been known to be touched by lightning, is esteemed, even as far as Angola, a protection against the electric fluid. Branches of it may be seen placed on the houses of the Portuguese for the same purpose. The natives, moreover, beheve that a man is thoroughly protected from an enraged elephant, if he can get into the shade of tliis tree. There may not be much m this, but there is fre- quently some foundation of truth in their observations. At Rapesh we came among our old friends the Bushmen, under Horoye. Tliis man, Horoye, a good specimen of that tribe, and his son Mokantsa and others, were at least six feet high, and of a darker colom* than the Bushmen of the south. They have always plenty of food and water ; and as they frequent the Zouga as often as the game hi company mth which they hve, their life is very different from that of the inhabitants of the thirsty plains of the Kalahari. The animal they refrain from eating is the goat, which fact, taken in connection mtli the superstitious dread which exists in every tribe towards a parti- . cular animal, is significant of their feehngs to the only animals they could have domesticated in then- desert home. They are a merry lauglring set, and do not tell Hes wantonly. They have in their superstitious rites more appearance of worship than the Bechuanas ; and at a Bushman's gTave we once came to on the Zouga, the observances showed distinctly that they regarded the dead as still in another state of being ; for they addressed him, and requested him not to be offended even though they wished still to remain a httle while longer in tliis world. Those among whom we now were kill many elephants ; and when the moon is fuU choose that time for the chace, on account 166 CIVILIZED AND BARBAEOUS SPORTSMEN. Chap. YIII. of its coolness. Huntino: this animal is tlie best test of com-ao^e tliis country affords. The Bushmen choose the moment suc- ceeding a charge, when the elephant is out of breath, to run in and give liim a stab ^Aith then- long-bladed spears. In tliis case the uncivilized have the advantage over us, but I beheve that with half then- training Englislimen Tvould beat the Bushmen. Our present form of ci^dlization does not necessarily produce efleminacY, though it unquestionably increases the beauty, cou- rage, and physical powers of the race. Wien at Kolobeng I took notes of the different numbers of elephants killed in the course of the season by the various parties which went past our dwelling, in order to form an idea of the probable annual de- struction of this noble animal. There were parties of Griquas, Bechuanas, Boers, and Enghslunen. All were eager to distin- guish themselves, and success depended mainly on the courage w^hich leads the huntsman to go close to the animal, and not waste the force of his shot on the air. It was noticeable that the average for the natives was under one per man, for the Griquas one per man, for the Boers two, and for the EngHsh officers twenty each. Tliis was the more remarkable, os the Griquas, Boers, and Bechuanas employed both dog-s and natives to assist them, while the English hunters generally had no assistance from either. They approached to within thii-ty yards of the annual, while the others stood at a distance of a hundred yards, or even more, and of course spent all the force of their bidlets on the air. One elephant was found by Mr. Oswell with quite a crowd of bullets in his side, all evidently fired in this style, and they had not gone near the vital pai-ts. It 'w^ould thus appear that om* more barbarous neighbours do not possess half the corn-age of the ci\Tlized sportsman. And it is probable that in tliis respect, as well as in physical development, w^e are superior to om- ancestors. The coats of mail and greaves of the Knights of 3Ialta, and the armom* from the Tower exhibited at the Eghnton tom-nament, may be considered decisive as to the greater size attained by modern ci^ihzed men. At Maila we spent a Sunday with Kaisa, the head man of a village of Mashona, who had fled fi'om the u-on sway of Mosihkatse, w^hose country Hes east of tliis. I wished liim to take charge of a packet of letters for England, to be forwarded when, as is Chap. VIII. BEAUTY OF COUNTEY AT UNKU. 167 the custom of the Bamangwato, the Bechiianas come hither in search of skins and food among the Buslimen; but he could not be made to comprehend that there was no danger in the consignment. He feared the responsibiUty and guilt if anytliing should happen to them ; so I had to bid adieu to all hope of letting my family hear of my welfare till I should reach the west coast. At Unku we came into a tract of country which had been \isited by refreshing showers long before, and every spot was covered with gTass run up to seed, and the flowers of the forest were in fuU bloom. -Instead of the dreary prospect around Koobe and Nchokotsa, we had here a delightful scene, all the ponds fuU of water, and the bu'ds tmttering jo)^ully. As the game can now obtain water everywhere, they become very shy, and cannot be found in their accustomed haunts. 1st March, The thermometer in the shade generally stood at 98° from 1 to 3 P.M., but it sank as low as 65*^ by night, so that the heat was by no means exhausting. At the surface of the ground, in the sun, the thermometer marked 125**, and tln-ee inches below it 138°. The hand cannot be held on the ground, and even the horny soles of the feet of the natives must be pro- tected by sandals of hide ; yet the ants were busy working on it. The water in the ponds was as high as 100° ; but as water does not conduct heat readily downwards, deKciously cool water may be obtained by any one walking into the middle and lifting up the water from the bottom to the surface with liis hands. Proceeding to the north, from Kama-kama, we entered into dense Mohonono bush, which required the constant apphcation of the axe by three of our party for two days. Tliis bush has fine silvery leaves, and the bark has a sweet taste. The elephant, ^\ith his usual dehcacy of taste, feeds much on it. On emerging into the plains beyond, we found a number of Bushmen, who afterwards proved very serviceable. The rains had been copious, but now great numbers of pools were di^ying up. Lotus-plants abounded in them, and a low sweet-scented plant covered their banks. Breezes came occasionally to us from these drpng-up pools ; but the pleasant odour they carried caused sneezing in both myself and people ; and on the 10th of March (when in lat. 19° 16' 11" S., long. 24° 24' E.) we were brought to a stand 168 RECAPTURE OF RUNAWAY CATTLE. Chap. VIII. by fom* of the pai'ty being seized with fever. I had seen this disease before, but did not at once recognise it as the African fever ; I imagined it was only a bihous attack, arising from ftdl feeding on flesh, for, the large game having been very abundant, we always had a good supply ; but instead of the fii'st sufferers recovering soon, every man of our party was in a few days laid low, except a Bakwain lad and myself. He managed the oxen, while I attended to the wants of the patients, and went out occa- sionally mth the Bushmen to get a zebra or buffalo, so as to induce them to remain with us. Here for the first time I had leisure to follow the instructions of my kind teacher, ]\Ir. Maclear, and calculated several longi- tudes from lunar distances. The hearty manner in which that eminent astronomer and fi-ank fi'iendly man had promised to aid me in calculating and verifying my work, conduced more than anytlihig else to inspne me with perseverance in making astrono- mical observations tlu'oughout the journey. The grass here was so tall that the oxen became uneasy, and one night the sight of a hyaena made them rush away into the forest to the east of us. On rising on the morning of the 19th I found that my Bakwain lad had run away with them. This I have often seen with persons of this tribe, even when the cattle are startled by a lion. Away go the young men in company ^nth them, and dash through bush and brake for miles, till they think the panic is a Kttle subsided ; they then commence wliistHng to the cattle in the manner they do when milking the cows : having calmed them, they remain as a guard till the morning. The men generally retui-n with their shins well peeled by the thorns. Each comrade of the Mopato would expect his fellow to act thus, without looking for any other reward than the brief praise of the cliief. Our lad Kibopechoe had gone after the oxen, but had lost them in the rush through the flat trackless forest. He remained on their trail all the next day and all the next night. On Sunday morning, as I was setting off m search of liim, I found him near the waggon. He had found the oxen late in the afternoon of Satm-day, and had been obhged to stand by them all night. It was wonderful how he managed Avithout a compass, and in such a country, to find liis way home at all, bringuig about forty oxen with liim. Chap. VIII. GEAPES. 169 The Bechiianas will keep on the sick-list as long as they feel any weakness ; so I at last began to be anxions that they should make a httle exertion to get forward on our w^ay. One of them, however, happening to move a hundi-ed yards from the waggon, fell down ; and, being unobserved, remained the whole night in the pom-ing ram totally insensible ; another was subjected to fre- quent swooning : but making beds in the waggons for these our worst cases, with the help of the Bakwain and the Bushmen, w^e moved slowly on. We had to nurse the sick like children ; and, like chilcben recovering from illness, the better they became the more impudent they grew. Tliis was seen in the peremptory orders they would give with their now piping voices. IN'othmg that we did pleased them ; and the laughter ^\i^h which I received their ebuUitions, though it was only the real expression of gladness at their recovery, and amusement at the ridiculous part they acted, only increased their chagTin. The want of power in the man who guided the two front oxen, or, as he was called, the " leader," caused us to be entangled with trees, both standing and fallen, and the labour of cutting them down was even more severe than ordinary ; but notwitlistanding an immense amoimt of toil, my health continued good. We wished to avoid the tsetse of our former path, so kept a com-se on the magnetic meridian from Lm-ilopepe. The necessity of making a new path much increased our toil. We were, however, rewarded in lat. IS'' with a sight we had not enjoyed the year before, namely, large patches of gi-ape-bearing yines. There they stood before my eyes ; but the sight was so entirely unexpected that I stood some time gazing at the clusters of gi-apes ^vith which they were loaded, with no more thought of plucking than if I had been beholding them in a dream. The Bushmen know and eat them ; but they are not well flavoured on account of the great astringency of the seeds, which are in shape and size like split peas. The elephants are fond of the fruit, plant, and root alike. I here found an insect which preys on ants ; it is about an inch and a quarter long, as thick as a crow-quill, and covered with, black hair. It puts its head into a httle hole in the ground, and quivers its tail rapidly ; the ants come near to see it, and it snaps up each as he comes mthin the range of the forceps on its tail. As its head is beneath the ground, it becomes a question how it can 170 AN ANTEATEE. Chap. VIII. guide its tail to the ants. It is probably a new species of ant- lion {Myrmeleon formicaleo), great numbers of which, both in the larvae and complete state, are met with. The ground under every tree is dotted over ^dth theii' ingenious pitfalls, and the perfect insect, the form of which most persons are familiar with in the di*agon-fly, may be seen using its tail in the same active manner as this insect did. Two may often be seen joined in then* flight, the one holding on by the tail-forceps to the neck of the other. On first observing this imperfect insect, I imagined the forceps were on its head ; but when the insect moved, their true position was seen. The forest, tln-ough which we were slowly toihng, daily became more dense, and we were kept almost constantly at work mth the axe ; there was much more leafiness in the trees here than farther south. The leaves are chiefly of the pinnate and bi-pinnate forms, and are exceedingly beautiful when seen against the sky ; a great variety of the papilionaceous family grow in this part of the country. Fleming had until this time always assisted to di-ive his own waggon, but about the end of March he knocked up, as weU as his people. As I could not di*ive two waggons, I shared ^dth him the remaining water, half a caskful, and went on, with the inten- tion of coming back for him as soon as we should reach the next pool. Heavy rain now commenced ; I was employed the whole day in cutting do^\Ti trees, and every stroke of the axe brought down a thick shower on my back, which in the hard work was very refreshing, as the water found its way down into my shoes. In the evening we met some Bushmen, who volunteered to show us a pool ; and having unyoked, I walked some miles in search of it. As it became dark they showed their poHteness — a quality w^hich is by no means confined entirely to the civilized — by waUv- ing in fi-ont, breaking the branches which hung across the path, and pointing out the fallen trees. On returning to the waggon, we found that being left alone had brought out some of Fleming's energy, for he had managed to come up. As the water in this pond dried up, we were soon obliged to move again. One of the Bushmen took out liis dice, and, after thi'owing them, said that God told liim to go home. He tln-ew again in order to show me the command, but the opposite result followed; so he remained and was useful, for we lost the oxen Chap. VIII. BUSHMEN'S POISONS. 171 again by a lion dri^dng tliem off to a very gTeat distance. The Hons here are not often heard. They seem to have a wholesome dread of the Bushmen, who, when they observe e\adence of a lion's having made a fuU meal, follow up his spoor so quietly that liis slumbers are not distm-bed. One discharges a poisoned arrow from a distance of only a few feet, while his companion simul- taneously throws liis skin cloak on the beast's head. The sudden surprise makes the Hon lose liis presence of mind, and he bounds away in the greatest confusion and terror. Our friends here showed me the poison wliich they use on these occasions. It is the entrails of a caterpiUar caUed N'gwa, half an inch long. They squeeze out these, and place them aU around the bottom of the barb, and aUow the poison to dry in the sun. They are very careful in cleaning then- nails after working with it, as a small portion introduced into a scratch acts Hke morbid matter in dis- section wounds. The agony is so great that the person cuts liim- self, caUs for his mother's breast as if he were returned in idea to his childliood again, or flies from human habitations a raging maniac. The effects on the Hon are equaUy terrible. He is heard moaning in distress, and becomes furious, biting the trees and ground in rage. As the Bushmen have the reputation of curing the wounds of this poison, I asked how this was effected. They said that they administer the caterpiUar itself in combination ^^dth. fat; they also rub fat into the wound, saying that "the N'gwa wants fat, and, when it does not find it in the body, kiUs the man : we give it what it wants, and it is content " — a reason wliich wiH com- mend itself to the enlightened among om-selves. The poison more generally employed is the milky juice of the tree Euphorbia {JE. arborescens). This is particidarly ob- noxious to the equine race. When a quantity is mixed with the water of a pond a whole herd of zebras wiU faU dead from the effects of the poison before they have moved away two miles. It does not, however, kill oxen or men. On them it acts as a drastic pm-gative only. This substance is used aU over the country, though in some places the venom of serpents and a certain bulb, Amaryllis toxicaria, are added, in order to increase the Adrulence. Father Pedro, a Jesuit, who Hved at Zumbo, made a balsam, containing a number of plants and castor oil, as a remedy for 172 THE BUSHMEN. Chap. VHI. poisoned arrow-wounds. It is probable that he derived liis know- ledge from the natives as I did, and that the reputed efficacy of the balsam is owing to its fatty constituent. In cases of the bites of serpents a small key ought to be pressed down firmly on the wound, the orifice of the key being appHed to the puncture, until a cupping-glass can be got from one of the natives. A watch-key pressed fii-mly on the point stung by a scorpion extracts the poison; and a mixtm^e of fat or oil and ipecacuanha reHeves the pain. The Bushmen of these districts are generally fine weU-made men, and are nearly independent of every one. We observed them to be fond of a root somewhat hke a kidney potato, and the kernel of a nut, which Fleming thought was a kind of betel ; the tree is a fine large spreading one, and the leaves palmate. From the quantities of berries and the abundance of game in these parts, the Bushmen can scarcely ever be badly off for food. As I could mthout much difficulty keep them weU suppHed with meat, and wished them to remain, I proposed that they should bring their wives to get a share, but they remarked that the women could always take care of themselves. None of the men of our party had died, but two seemed unhkely to recover; and Kibopechoe, my ^vilhng Mokwain, at last became troubled vnth. boils, and then got all the symptoms of fever. As he lay doi^Ti, the others began to move about, and complained of weakness only. BeKe\dng that frequent change of place was conducive to their recovery, we moved along as much as we could, and came to the hill N'gwa (lat. 18° 27' 20" S., long. 24° 13' 36" E.). This being the only hiU we had seen smce leaving the Bamangwato, we felt inclined to take off our hats to it. It is three or four hundred feet high, and covered Avith trees. Its geograpliical position is pretty accurately laid down from occulta- tion and other observations. I may mention that the valley on its northern side, named Kandehy, or Kandehai, is as picturesque a spot as is to be seen in tins part of Africa. The open glade, sur- rounded by forest trees of various hues, had a Httle stream mean- dering in the centre. A herd of reddish-coloured antelopes (pallahs) stood on one side, near a large baobab, looking at us, and ready to run up the liill ; while gnus, tsessebes, and zebras gazed in asto- nishment at the intruders. Some fed carelessly, and others put Chap. VIII. BEAUTY OF THE COUNTRY. 173 on the peculiar aii* of displeasure which these animals sometimes assume before they resolve on flight. A large wliite rliinoceros came along the bottom of the valley with his slow sauntering gait without noticing us ; he looked as if he meant to indulge in a mud bath. Several buffaloes, with their dark ^dsages, stood imder the trees on the side opposite to the pallalis. It being Sunday, all was peace, and, from the cu-cumstances in wliich om- party was placed, we could not but reflect on that second stage of our existence which we hope will lead us into scenes of perfect beauty. If pardoned in that free way the Bible promises, death wiU be a glorious tiling ; but to be consigned to wait for the Judgment- day, with nothing else to ponder on but sins we would rather forget, is a cheerless prospect. Our Bushmen Avished to leave us, and, as there was no use m trying to thwart these independent gentlemen, I paid them, and allowed them to go. The pajmient, however, acted as a charm on some strangers who happened to be present, and induced them to volunteer their aid. The game hereabouts is very tame. Koodoos and giraffes stood gazing at me as a strange apparition when I went out wdth the Bushmen. On one occasion a Hon came at daybreak, and went round and round the oxen. I could only get a glimpse of him occasionally from the waggon-box ; but, though barely thfrty yards off, I could not get a shot. He then began to roar at the top of his voice ; but the oxen continuing to stand still, he was so disgusted that he went off, and continued to use liis voice for a long time in the distance. I could not see that he had a mane ; if he had not, then even the maneless variety can use thefr tongues. We heard others also roar ; and, Avhen they foimd they could not fr'ighten the oxen, they became equally angi-y. Tliis we could observe in their tones. As we went north the country became very lovely ; many new trees appeared ; the grass was green, and often liigher than the waggons; the vines festooned the trees, among which appeared the real banian {Ficus indica), ^vith its drop-shoots, and the ^old date and palmyra, and several other trees which were new to me ; the hollows contamed large patches of water. Next came watercoiu-ses, now resembhng small rivers, twenty yards broad and four feet deep. The further we went, the broader and deeper 174 THE SANSHUEEH. Chap. VIII. these became ; their bottoms contauied great numbers of deep holes, made by elephants wading in them; in these the oxen floundered desperately, so that our waggon-pole broke, compeUing us to work up to the breast in water for three hours and a half; yet I suffered no harm. We at last came to the Sanshureh, which presented an im- passable barrier, so Ave drew up under a magnificent baobab-tree (lat. 18° 4' 27" S., long. 24° 6' 20" E.), and resolved to explore the river for a ford. The great quantity of water we had passed tlu-ough was part of the annual inundation of the Chobe ; and tliis, which appeared a large deep river, filled in many parts mtli reeds, and having hippopotami in it, is only one of the branches by which it sends its superabundant water to the south- east. From the hill N'gwa a ridge of higher land runs to the north-east, and bounds its course in that direction. We, being ignorant of tliis, were in the valley, and the only gap in the whole country destitute of tsetse. In company with the Buslunen I explored all the banks of the Sanshiu^eh to the west, till we came into tsetse on that side. We waded a long way among the reeds in water breast deep, but always found a broad deep space free from vegetation, and unfordable. A pecuhar kind of Kchen, which grows on the surface of the soil, becomes detached and floats on the w^ater, giving out a very disagreeable odour, like sulphuretted hydrogen, in some of these stagnant waters. We made so many attempts to get over the Sanshureh, both to the west and east of the waggon, in the hope of reaching some of the Makololo on the Chobe, that my Bushmen friends became quite tired of the work. By means of presents I got them to remain some days ; but at last they shpped away by night, and I was fain to take one of the strongest of my still weak com- panions and cross the river in a pontoon, the gift of Captains Codrington and Webb. We each carried some provisions and a blanket, and penetrated about twenty miles to the westward, in the hope of striking the Chobe. It was much nearer to us in a northerly direction, but this we did not then know. The plain, over which we splashed the whole of the first day, wa;s covered with water ankle deep, and thick grass which reached above the knees. In the evening we came to an immense wall of reeds, six or eight feet high, without any opening admitting of a passage. Chap. YIII. BANKS OF THE CHOBE. 175 When we tried to enter, the water always became so deep that we were fain to desist. We conchided that we had come to the banks of the river we were in search of, so Ave directed our course to some trees which appeared in the south, in order to get a bed and a view of the adjacent locaUty. Having shot a leche, and made a glorious fire, we got a good cup of tea and had a com- fortable night. While collecting wood that evening, I found a bird's nest consistmg of Kve leaves sewn, together with tln-eads of the spider's web. Nothing could exceed the airiness of this pretty contrivance; the threads had been pushed through small punctures and thickened to resemble a knot. I unfor- tunately lost it. Tliis was the second nest I have seen resembling that of the tailor-bird of India. ! Next morning, by cKmbing the highest trees, we could see a fine large sheet of water, but surrounded on all sides by the same impenetrable belt of reeds. Tliis is the broad part of the river I Chobe, and is called Zabesa. Two tree-covered islands seemed ! to be much nearer to the water than the shore on wliich we were, ) I so we made an attempt to get to them first. It was not the reeds ! alone we had to pass tlirough ; a pecuhar serrated grass, which i at certain angles cut the hands like a razor, was mingled witli the reed, and the climbing convolvulus, with stalks which felt as strong as whipcord, bound the mass together. We felt like pigmies in it, and often the only way we could get on was by both of us leaning against a part and bending it down till we could stand upon it. The perspiration streamed off our bodies, and as the sun rose high, there being no ventilation among the reeds, the heat was stifling, and the water, which was up to the knees, felt agreeably refreshing. After some hours' toil we reached one of the islands. Here we met an old friend, the bramble-bush. My strong moleskins were quite worn tlirough at the knees, and the leather trousers of my companion were torn and his legs 1 bleeding. Tearing my handkerchief in two, I tied the pieces round my knees, and then encountered another difficulty. We were stiU forty or fifty yards from the clear water, but now we were opposed by great masses of papyrus, which are like palms in miniature, eight or ten feet high, and an inch and a half in diameter. These were laced together by twining convolvulus, so strongly that the weight of both of us could not make way into the clear water. At last we fortunately found a passage prepared 176 THE CHOBE. Chap. VIII. by a liippopotamus. Eager as soon as we readied the island to look along tlie vista to clear water, I stepped in and found it took me at once up to tlie neck. Ketui'iiing nearly worn out, we proceeded up the bank of the Chobe, till we came to the point of departure of the branch Sanshureh ; we then went in the opposite direction, or down the Chobe, though from the liighest trees we could see notliing but one vast expanse of reed, with here and there a tree on the islands. This was a hard day's work ; and when we came to a deserted Bayeiye hut on an anthill, not a bit of wood or anytliing else could be got for a fire, except the gTass and sticks of the dwelling itself. I dreaded the " Tampans,'' so common in all old huts ; but outside of it we had thousands of mosquitoes, and cold dew began to be deposited, so we were fain to crawl beneath its shelter. We were close to the reeds, and could Hsten to the strange sounds which are often heard there. By day I had seen water- snakes puttmg up then- heads and swimming about. There were gTcat numbers of otters (Lutra inunguis, F. Cuvier), which have made httle spoors aU over the plains in search of the fishes, among the tall grass of these flooded prahies ; curious birds, too, jerked and wiiggled among these reedy masses, and we heard human-hke voices and unearthly sounds, with splash, guggle, jupp, as if rare fun were going on in their uncouth haunts. At one time something came near us, making a splasliing hke that of a canoe or lnj)popotamus : thmking it to be the Makololo, we got up, listened, and shouted ; then discharged a gun several times ; but the noise continued mthout intermission for an hour. After a damp cold night we set to, early in the morning, at our work of exploring again, but left the pontoon in order to lighten our labour. The antliills are here very high, some thirty feet, and of a base so broad that trees gi'ow on them ; wliile the lands, annually flooded, bear nothing but grass. From one of these ant- hills we discovered an inlet to the Chobe ; and, having gone back for the pontoon, we launched ourselves on a deep river, here from eighty to one hundred yards wide. I gave my companion strict injunctions to stick by the pontoon in case a hippopotamus should look at us ; nor was this caution unnecessar}^, for one came up at our side and made a despei'ate plunge off. We had passed over him. The wave he made caused the pontoon to glide quickly away from him. Chap. VIII. RETURN TO LINYANTI. 177 We paddled on from midday till sunset. There was nothing but a wall of reed on each bank, and we saw every prospect of spending a supperless night in our float ; but just as the short t^vihght of these parts was commencing, we perceived on the north bank the village of Moremi, one of the Makololo, whose acquaint- ance I had made in our former ^isit, and who was now located on the island Mahonta (lat. 17° 58' S., long. 24° 6' E.). The villagers looked as we may suppose people do who see a ghost, and in their figurative way of speaking said, "He has dropped among us from the clouds, yet came riding on the back of a hippopotamus ! . We Makololo thought no one could cross the Chobe without our knowledge, but here he drops among us like a bird." Xext day we returned in canoes across the flooded lands, and found that, in our absence, the men had allowed the cattle to wander into a very small patch of wood to the west containing the tsetse ; this carelessness cost me ten fine large oxen. After remaining a few days, some of the head men of the Makololo came down from Linyanti, A^ith a large party of Barotse, to take us across the river. This they chd in fine style, swimming and diving among the oxen more like alhgators than men, and taking the waggons to pieces and carrying them across on a number of canoes lashed together. We were now among friends ; so going about thirty miles to the north, in order to avoid the still flooded lands on the north of the Chobe, we turned westwards towards Lmyanti (lat. 18° 17' 20" S., long. 23° 50' 9" E.), where we arrived on the 23rd of May, 1853. This is the capital town of the Makololo, and only a short distance from our waggon-stand of 1851 (lat. 18° 20' S., long. 23° 50' E.). N 178 THE COUKT HERALD. Chap. IX. CHAPTEK IX. Reception at Linyanti — The court herald — Sekeletu obtains the chieftain- ship from his sister — Mj^epe's plot — Slave-trading Mambari — Their sudden flight — Sekeletu narrowly escapes assassination — Execution of Mpepe — The courts of law — Mode of trying olfences — Sekeletu's reason for not learning to read the Bible — The disposition made of the wives of a deceased chief — Makololo women — They work but little — Employ serfs — Their drink, dress, and ornaments — rublic religious services in the kotla — Unfavourable associations of the place — Natfve doctors — Proposal to teach the Makololo to read — Sekeletu's present — Reason for accepting it — Trading in ivoiy — Accidental fire — Pre- sents for Sekeletu — Two breeds of native cattle — Ornamenting the cattle — The women and the looking-glass — Mode of preparing the skins of oxen for mantles and for shields — Tlirowing the spear. The whole jwpiilation of Linyanti, numbering between six and seven thousand souls, turned out en masse to see the waggons in motion. They had never mtnessed the phenomenon before, we ha^-ing on the former occasion departed by night. Sekeletu, now in power, received us in what is considered royal style, setting before us a gTcat number of pots of boyaloa, the beer of the country. These were brought by women, and each bearer takes a good di-aught of the beer when she sets it do^v^l, by way of " tasting," to show that there is no poison. The com-t herald, an old man who occupied the post also in Sebituane's time, stood up, and after some antics, such as leaping, and shouting at the top of his voice, roared out some adulatory sentences, as, "Don't I see the wliite man? Don't I see the comrade of Sebituane ? Don't I see the father of Sekeletu ? " — " We want sleep " — " Give your son sleep, my lord," &c. &c. The perquisites of this man are the heads of all the cattle slaughtered by the chief, and he even takes a share of the tribute before it is distributed and taken out of the kotla. He is ex- pected to utter all the proclamations, call assembhes, keep the kotla clean, and the fire burning every evening, and when a person is executed in pubhc he drags away the body. I found Sekeletu a young man of eighteen years of age, of Chap. IX. SEKELETU OBTAINS CHIEFTAINSHIP. 179 that dark-yellow or coffee-and-milk colour, of wMcli the Makololo are so proud, because it distinguishes them considerably from the black tribes on the rivers. He is about five feet seven in height, and neither so goodlooking, nor of so much ability, as liis father was, but is equally friendly' to the Enghsh. Sebituane installed liis daughter Mamocliisane into the chieftaiuship long before his death, but, with all liis acuteness, the idea of her having a husband who should not be her lord did not seem to enter liis mind. He wished to make her his successor, probably in imitation of some of the negro tribes with whom he had come into contact ; but, being of the Bechuana race, he could not look upon the hus- band except as the woman's lord, so he told her all the men were hei-s, she might take any one, but ought to keep none. In fact, he thought she might do mth the men what he could do with the women ; but these men had other wives ; and according to a sa\Tng in the country, " the tongues of women cannot be governed," they made her miserable by their remarks. One man whom she chose was even called her wife, and her son the child of Mamocliisane's ^dfe; but the arrangement was so dLstasteful to Mamocliisane hei*self, that, as soon as Sebituane died, she said she never would consent to govern the Makololo so long as she had a brother Hving. Sekeletu, being afraid of another mem- ber of the family, 'Mpepe, who had pretensions to the chief- tainship, m-ged his sister strongly to remain as she had always been, and allow him to support her authority by leadhig the Makololo when they went forth to war. Tliree days were spent in pubhc discussion on the point. Mpepe iusuiuated that Seke- letu was not the lawful son of Sebituane, on accoimt of liis mother having been the Avife of another cliief before her marriage ^ith Sebituane ; Mamochisane, however, upheld Sekeletu's claims, and at last stood up in the assembly and addressed him with a womanly gush of tears: " I have been a cliief only because my father wished it. I always would have preferred to be maiTied and have a family like other women. You, Sekeletu, must be chief and build up your father's house." This was a death-blow to the hopes of Mpepe. As it wiU enable the reader to understand the social and poH- tical relations of these people, I will add a few more particulai's respecting Mpepe. Sebituane, having no son to take the leader- N 2 180 SLAYE-TEADEES. Chap. IX. ship of the " Mopato " of the age of his daughter, chose him as the nearest male relative to occupy that post ; and presuming from Mpepe's connection with his femily that he would attend to his iaterests and relieve him from care, he handed his cattle over to his custody. Mpepe removed to the chief town, " Naliele," and took such effectual charge of all the cattle, that Sebituane saw he could only set matters on theii' former footing by the severe measure of Mpepe's execution. Beiag unwilling to do this, and fearing the enchantments which, by means of a number of Barotse doctors, Mpepe now used in a hut bmlt for the purpose, and longing for peaceful retirement after thirty years' fightiQg, he heard with pleasure of our arrival at the lake, and came do™ as far as Sesheke to meet us. He had an idea, picked up from some of the numerous strangers who visited him, that white men had a " pot (a cannon) ia their towns which would bum up any attacking party ;" and he thought if he could only get this he would be able to " sleep " the remaiader of his days ia peace. This he hoped to obtain from the white men. Hence the cry of the herald — " Give us sleep." It is remarkable how anxious for peace those who have been fighting all their lives appear to be. AMien Sekeletu was iastalled in the chieftainship, he felt his position rather insecm-e, for it was beheved that the incantations of Mpepe had an intimate connection with Sebituane's death. Indeed, the latter had said to his son, " That hut of incantation will prove fatal to either you or me." A\Tien the Mambari, in 1850, took home a favourable report of this new market to the west, a number of half-caste Portuguese slave-traders were induced to come in 1853 ; and one, who re- sembled closely a real Portuguese, came to Linyanti while I was there. This man had no merchandise, and pretended to have come in order to inquire " what sort of goods were necessary for the market." He seemed much disconcerted by my presence there. Sekeletu presented him with an elephant's tusk and an ox ; and when he had departed about fifty miles to the west- ward, he carried off an entire village of the Bakalahari belonging to the Makololo. He had a number of armed slaves with h\m ; and as all the villagers — men, women, and children — were re- moved, and the fact was unknowTi until a considerable time Chap. IX. SLAYE-TEADERS. 181 afterwards, it is not certain whether his object was obtained by- violence or by fair promises. In either case, slavery must have been the portion of these poor people. He was earned in a hammock, slung between two poles, which appeariag to be a bag, the Makololo named him " Father of the Bag." Mpepe favom-ed these slave-traders, and they, as is usual with them, founded all their hopes of influence on his successful re- bellion. My arrival on the scene w^as felt to be so much weight in the scale against their interests. A large party of Mambari had come to Linyanti when I w^as floundering on the praii'ies south of the Chobe. * As the new^s of my being in the neighbom- hood reached them their countenances fell; and when some Makololo, wdio had assisted us to cross the river, returned with hats wdiich I had given them, the Mambari betook themselves to precipitate flight. It is usual for visitors to ask formal permis- sion before attemptiug to leave a cliief, but the sight of the hats made the Mambari pack up at once. The Makololo inquired the cause of the hurry, and were told that, if I found them there, I should take aU their slaves and goods from them ; and though assured by Sekeletu that I was not a robber, but a man of peace, they fled by night, wliile I was still sixty miles o&. They went to the north, where, under the protection of Mpepe, they had erected a stockade of considerable size ; there several half-caste slave-traders, under the leadership of a native Portuguese, carried on their traffic, without reference to the chief into w^hose country they had unceremoniously introduced themselves ; wMe Mpepe, feeding them with the cattle of Sekeletu, formed a plan of raising himself, by means of their fire-arms, to be the head of the Mako- lolo. The usual course which the slave-traders adopt is to take a part in the political afiairs of each tribe, and, siding with the strongest, get well paid by captures made from the weaker party. Long secret conferences were held by the slave-traders and Mpepe, and it w^as deemed advisable for him to strike the fii'st blow ; so he provided himself with a small battle-axe, with the intention of cutting Sekeletu down the first time they met. My object being first of all to examine the country for a healthy locality, before attempting to make a path to either the east or west coast, I proposed to Sekeletu the j)lan of ascending the great river which we had discovered in 1851. He volun- 182 EXECUTION OF MPEPE. Chap. IX. teered to accompany me ; and when we got about sixty miles away, on the road to Sesheke, we encoimtered Mpepe. The Makololo, though possessing abundance of cattle, had never attempted to ride oxen, until I advised it in 1851. The Bechu- anas generally were in the same condition, until Europeans came among them and imparted the idea of riding. All their journeys previously were performed on foot. Sekeletu and liis companions were mounted on oxen, though, having neither saddle nor bridle, they were perpetually falling oJff. Mpepe, armed with his little axe, came along a path parallel to, but a quarter of a mile distant from, that of our party ; and when he saw Sekeletu he ran with all his might towards us ; but Sekeletu, being on his guard, gal- loped off to an adjacent village. He then mthdrew somewhere till all om- party came up. Mpepe had given his own party to understand that he would cut down Sekeletu, either on theii* first meeting, or at the breaking up of their first conference. The former intention having been thus frustrated, he then determined to effect his purpose after their first interview. I happened to sit down between the two in the hut where they met : being tired with riding all day in the sun, I soon asked Sekeletu where I should sleep, and he rephed, " Come, I avlQ show you." As we rose together, I unconsciously covered Sekeletu's body with mine, and saved liim from the blow of the assassin. I knew notliing of the plot, but remarked that all Mpepe's men kept hold of their arms, even after we had sat down — a thing quite unusual in the presence of a chief; and when Sekeletu showed me the hut in which I was to spend the night, he said to me, " That man wishes to kill me." I afterwards learnt that some of Mpepe's attendants had divulged the secret ; and, bearing in mind his father's instructions, Sekeletu put Mpepe to death that night. It was managed so quietly, that, although I was sleeping within a few yards of the scene, I knew nothing of it till the next day. Nokuane went to the fire at which Mpepe sat, with a handful of snuff, as if he were about to sit down and regale him- self therewith. Mpepe said to him, " Nsepisa " (cause me to take a pinch) ; and, as he held out his hand, Nokuane caught hold of it,^while another man seized the other hand, and, leading him out a mile, speared him. This is the common mode of executing criminals. They are not allowed to speak ; though on one occa- Chap. IX. COUETS OF LAW. 183 sion a man, feeling Ms wrist held too tiglitly, said, " Hold me gently, can't yon? you will soon be led out in the same way yourselves." Mpepe's men fled to the Barotse, and, it being unadvisable for us to go thither dm-ing the commotion wliich followed on Mpepe's death, we returned to Linyanti. The foregoing may be considered as a characteristic specimen of their mode of dealing with grave pohtical offences. In common cases there is a greater show of deHberation. The complainant asks the man, against whom he means to lodge his complaint, to come with him to the chief. This is never refused. When Ijoth are in the kotla, the complainant stands up and states the whole case before the chief and the people usually assembled there. He stands a few seconds after he has done tliis, to recollect if he has forgotten anything. The witnesses to whom he has referred then rise up and tell all they themselves have seen or heard, but not anything that they have heard from others. The defendant, after allowing some minutes to elapse so that he may not inter- rupt any of the opposite party, slowly rises, folds liis cloak around him, and, in the most quiet, dehberate way he can assume — yawning, blowing his nose, &c. — begins to explain the affau', denying the charge or admitting it, as the case may be. Some- times, when galled by his remarks, the complainant utters a sen- tence of dissent; the accused turns quietly to liim, and says, " Be silent : I sat still while you were speaking ; can't you do the same? Do you want to have it all to yourself?" And as the audience acquiesce in this bantering, and enforce silence, he goes on till he has finished all he wishes to say in Ms defence. If he has any witnesses to the truth of the facts of Ms defence, they give their evidence. No oath is admimstered ; but occa- sionally, when a statement is questioned, a man wlU say, " By my father," or " By the cMef, it is so." Their truthfoMess among each other is quite remarkable ; but their system of government is such that Em-opeans are not in a position to realise it readily. A poor man will say, m Ms defence against a rich one, " I am astonished to hear a man so great as he make a false accusation ;" as if the offence of falsehood were felt to be one agaiust the society wMch the iadividual referred to had the greatest iuterest in upholding. If the case is one of no importance, the cMef decides it at once ; 184 MODE OF TEYIXG OFFENCES. Chap. IX. if frivolous, he may give the complainant a scolding, and put a stop to the case in the middle of the complaint, or he may allow it to go on without pajdng any attention to it whatever. Family quarrels are often treated in this way, and then a man may be seen stating his case with great fluency, and not a soul listening to him. But if it is a case between influential men, or brought on by under-chiefs, then the greatest decorum prevails. If the chief does not see his w^ay clearly to a decision, he remains silent ; the elders then rise one by one and give their opinions, often in the way of advice rather than as decisions ; and when the chief finds the general sentiment agreeing in one view, he de- livers his judgment accordingly. He alone speaks sitting: all others stand. ISTo one refuses to acquiesce in the decision of the chief, as he has the power of life and death in his hands, and can enforce the law to that extent if he chooses ; but grumbling is allowed, and, when marked favomitism is shown to any relative of the chief, the people generally are not so astonished at the partiality as we would be in England. This system was found as well developed among the Makololo as among the Bakwains, or even better, and is no foreign im- portation. When at Cassange, my men had a slight quarrel among themselves, and came to me, as to their chief, for judg- ment. This had occm-red several times before, so without a thought I went out of the Portuguese merchant's house in which I was a guest, sat down, and heard the complaint and defence in the usual way. When I had given my decision in the common admonitory form, they went off apparently satisfied. Several Poi-tuguese, who had been viewing the proceedings vdth great interest, complimented me on the success of my teaching them how to act in litigation ; but I could not take any credit to my- seK for the system which I had found ready-made to my hands. Soon after our arrival at Linyanti, Sekeletu took me aside, and pressed me to mention those things I Kked best and hoped to get from him. Anything, either in or out of his town, should be freely given if I would only mention it. I explained to him that my object was to elevate him and his people to be Chi-istians ; but he repHed he did not wish to leam to read the Book, for he was afr-aid " it might change his heaii, and make liim content Chap. IX. DISPOSAL OF CHIEF'S WIDOWS. 185 with only one wife, like Sechele." It was of little use to urge that the change of heart implied a contentment with one wife equal to his present complacency in polygamy. Such a preference after the change of mind, could not now be understood by him any more than the real, unmistakeable pleasure of religious services can, by those Avho have not experienced what is known by the term the " new heart." I assm-ed him that nothing was expected but by liis own voluntary decision. " No, no ; he wanted always to have five wives at least." I lilved the franlmess of Sekeletu, for nothing is so wearying to the spirit as talking to those who agree ^y^th. everything advanced. Sekeletu, according to the system of the Bechuanas, became possessor of his father's wives, and adopted two of them ; the children by these women are, however, in these cases, termed brothers. When an elder brother dies, the same tiling occurs in respect of his wives; the brother next in age takes them, as among the Jews, and the cliildren that may be bom of those women he calls his brothers also. He thus raises up seed to liis departed relative. An uncle of Sekeletu, being a younger brother of Sebituane, got that chieftain's head-Avife, or queen: there is always one who enjoys this title. Her hut is called the great house, and her children inherit the chieftainship. If she dies, a new wife is selected for the same position and enjoys the same privileges, though she may happen to be a much younger woman than the rest. The majority of the wives of Sebituane were given to influen- tial under-chiefs ; and, in reference to their early casting off the widow's weeds, a song was sung, the tenor of which was that the men alone felt the loss of their father Sebituane, the women were so soon supphed with new husbands that their hearts had not time to become sore with grief. The women complain, because the proportions between the sexes are so changed now, that they are not valued as they de- serve. The majority of the real Makololo have been cut off by fever. Those who remain are a mere fragment of the people who came to the north with Sebituane. Migrating from a very healthy climate ia the south, they were more subject to the febrile diseases of the valley in which we found them, than the black tribes they conquered. In comparison with the Barotse, 186 MAKOLOLO WOMEN. Chap. IX. Batoka, and Banyeti, the Makololo have a sickly hue. They are of a Hght-brownish yellow colour, while the tribes referred to are very dark, with a slight tinge of olive. The whole of the coloured tribes consider that beauty and fairness are associated, and women long for childi-en of light colour so much, that they sometimes chew the bark of a certain tree in hopes of producing that effect. To my eye the dark colom^ is much more agreeable than the tawny hue of the half-caste, which that of the Makololo ladies closely resembles. The women generally escaped the fever, but they are less fruitful than formerly, and, to their complaint of being undervalued on account of the disproportion of the sexes, they now add their regTets at the want of cliildren, of whom they are all excessively fond. The Makololo women work but little. Indeed the families of that nation are spread over the coimtry, one or two only in each village, as the lords of the land. They all have lordship over great numbers of subjected tribes, who pass by the general name Makalaka, and who are forced to render certain services, and to aid in tilling the soil ; but each has his own land under cultivation, and othermse lives nearly independent. They are -pmud to be called Makololo, but the other term is often used ia reproach, as betokening inferiority. This species of servitude may be termed serfdom, as it has to be rendered in consequence of subjection by force of arms, but it is necessarily very mild. It is so easy for any one who is unkindly treated to make his escape to other tribes, that the Makololo are compelled to treat them, to a great extent, rather as children than slaves. Some masters, who fail from defect of temper or disposition to secure the affections of the conquered people, frequently find themselves left without a single servant, in consequence of the absence and impossibility of en- forcing a fugitive slave law, and the readiness with which those who are themselves subjected assist the fugitives across the rivers in canoes. The Makololo ladies are hberal in their presents of milk and other food, and seldom reqmre to labour, except in the way of beautifying their ovm. huts and court-yards. They drink large quantities of boyaloa, or o-alo, the buza of the Arabs, wlaich, being made of the grain called holcus sorghum, or " dura- saifi," in a minute state of subdivision, is very nutritious, and gives that plumpness of form which is considered beautiful. They Chap. IX. PUBLIC EELIGIOUS SEEYICES. 187 dislike being seen at tlieir potations by persons of tlie opposite sex. They cut tlieir Avoolly hair quite short, and dehght in having the whole person shining ^ith butter. Their dress is a kilt reaching to the knees ; its material is ox-hide, made as soft as cloth. It is not imgraceM. A soft skin mantle is thrown across the shoulders when the lady is unemployed, but when engaged in any sort of labour she thi'ows this aside, and works in the kilt alone. The ornaments most coveted are large brass anklets as thick as the httle finger, and armlets of both brass and ivory, the latter often an inch broad. The rings are so heavy that the ankles are often blistered by the weight pressing down ; but it is the fashion, and is borne as magnanimously as tio:ht lacino^ and tight shoes amono; ourselves. Strins^s of beads are hung ai-ound the neck, and the fashionable colours being light green and pink, a trader could get almost anything he chose for beads of these colours. At om* pubKc reHgious services in the kotla, the Makololo women always behaved with decorum from the first, excej^t at the conclusion of the prayer. When all knelt down, many of those who had children, in following the example of the rest, bent over their httle ones ; the children, in terror of being ciTished to death, set up a simultaneous yell, which so tickled the whole assembly there was often a subdued titter, to be turned into a hearty laugh as soon as they heard Amen. This was not so dif- ficult to overcome in them as similar peccadilloes were in the case of the women farther south. Long after we had settled at Ma- botsa, when preaching on the most solemn subjects, a woman might be observed to look round, and, seeing a neighbom: seated on her dress, give her a hunch -^dth the elbow to make her move off; the other would return it with interest, and perhaps the remark, " Take the nasty thing away, will you ? " Then three or four would begin to hustle the first offenders, and the men to swear at them aU, by way of enforcing silence. Great numbers of httle trifling things Hke these occur, and would not be worth the mention but that one cannot form a cor- rect idea of missionary work except by examination of the minutiae. At the risk of appearing frivolous to some, I shaU continue to descend to mere trifles. The numbers who attended at the summons by the herald, who acted as beadle, were often from five to seven hundred. 188 MEDICAL PRACTICE. Chap. IX. The service consisted of reading a small portion of the Bible and giving an explanatory address, usually short enough to prevent weariness or want of attention. So long as we continue to hold services in the kotla, the associations of the place are unfavourable to solemnity; hence it is always desirable to have a place of worship as soon as possible : and it is of importance too to treat such place with reverence, as an aid to secure that serious atten- tion wliicli religious subjects demand. This will appear more evident when it is recollected that, in the very spot where we had been engaged in acts of devotion, half an hour after, a dance would be got up ; and these habits cannot be at first opposed without the appearance of assuming too much authority over them. It is always unwise to hm't then- feelings of independence. Much greater influence will be gained by studying how you may induce them to act aright, with the impression that they are doing it of their own free A\iQ. Our services having necessarily been all in the open air, where it is most difficult to address large bodies of people, prevented my recovering so entirely from the effects of clergyman's sore throat as I expected, when my uvula was excised at the Cape. To give an idea of the routine followed for months together, on other days as well as on Sundays, I may advert to my habit of treating the sick for complaints which seemed to surmount the skill of their own doctors. I refrained from going to any one unless his own doctor wished it, or had given up the case. This led to my having a selection of the severer cases only, and prevented the doctors being offended at my taking their practice out of their hands. When attacked by fever myself, and wishing to ascertain what their practices were, I could safely intrust myself in their hands on account of then- well-known friendly feelings. The plan of showing kindness to the natives in their bodily ailments secures their friendship ; this is not the case to the same degree in old missions, where the people have learned to look upon rehef as a right, a state of things that sometimes happens among ourselves at home. Medical aid is therefore most valuable in young missions, though at all stages it is an extremely valuable adjunct to other operations. I proposed to teach the Makololo to read, but, for the reasons mentioned, Sekeletu at first dechned ; after some weeks, however, Motibe, his father-in-law, and some others determined to brave Chap. IX. SEKELETU'S PRESENT. 189 the mysterious book. To all who liave not acquired it, the know- ledge of letters is quite unfathomable ; there is nought hke it within the compass of their observation ; and we have no com- parison with anything except pictures, to aid them in compre- hending the idea of signs of words. It seems to them suj)er- natm*al that we see in a book things taking place, or having occurred at a distance. No amount of explanation conveys the idea unless they learn to read. Machinery is equally inex- plicable, and money nearly as much so until they see it in actual use. They are familiar with barter alone ; and in the centre of the country, where « gold is totally unknown, if a button and sovereign were left to their choice, they would prefer the former on account of its having an eye. In beginning to learn, Motibe seemed to himself in the posi- tion of the doctor, who was obliged to drink his potion before the patient, to show that it contained nothing detrimental : after he had mastered the alphabet, and reported the tlnng so far safe, Sekeletu and his young companions came forward to try for themselves. He must have resolved to watch the effects of the book against liis views on polygamy, and abstain whenever he perceived any tendency, in reading it, towards enforcing him to put liis wives away. A number of men learned the alphabet in a short time and were set to teach others, but before much pro- gress could be made I was on my way to Loanda. As I had declined to name an}i;hing as a present from Sekeletu, except a canoe to take me up the river, he brought ten fine elephants' tusks and laid them down beside my Avaggou. He would take no denial, though I told him I should prefer to see him trading with Fleming, a man of colour from the West Indies, who had come for the pm-pose. I had during the eleven years of my previous course invariably abstained from taking pre- sents of ivory, from an idea that a religious instmctor degraded himself by acceptuig gifts fi'om those whose spiritual welfare he professed to seek. My precedence of all traders in the Line of discovery put me often in the way of very handsome offers, but I always advised the donors to seU their ivory to traders, who would be sure to follow, and when at some future time they had become rich by barter, they might remember me or my cliildren. AMien Lake Ngami was discovered I might have refused per- mission to a trader who accompanied us ; but when he applied 190 PEESENTS AND TRADING. Chap. IX. for leave to form part of oiir company, knowing that ^Ir. Oswell would no more trade than myself, and that the people of the lake would be disappointed if they could not dispose of their ivory, I wilKngly granted a sanction, without which his people would not at that time have ventm*ed so far. This was sm-ely preferring the interest of another to my own. The return I got for this was, a notice in one of the Cape papers, that this " man was the true discoverer of the lake !" The conclusion I had come to was, that it is quite lawM, though perhaps not expedient, for missionaries to trade ; but barter is the only means by which a missionary in the interior can pay his way, as money has no value. In all the journeys I had previously undertaken for wider diffusion of the gospel, the extra expenses were defrayed from my salary of 100/. per annum. This sum is sufficient to enable a missionary to live in the interior of South Africa, supposing he has a garden capable of yielding corn and vegetables ; but should he not, and still consider that six or eight months cannot lawfully be sj^ent, simply in getting goods at a lower price than they can be had fr'om itinerant traders, the sum mentioned is barely sufficient for the poorest fare and plainest apparel. As we never felt om-selves justified in making journeys to the colony for the sake of securing bargains, the most frugal living was necessary to enable us to be a little charitable to others; but when to this were added extra travelling ex- penses, the wants of an increasing family, and liberal gifts to cliiefs, it was difficult to make both ends meet. The pleasure of missionary labour would be enhanced, if one could devote his life to the heathen, without drawing a salary from a society at all. The luxury of doiog good, from one's own private resoiu-ces, without appearing to either natives or Europeans to be making a gain of it, is far preferable, and an object worthy the ambition of the rich. But few men of fortune, however, now devote themselves to Christian missions, as of old. Presents were always given to the chiefs whom we visited, and nothing accejrted in return ; but when Sebituane (in 1851) offered some ivory, I took it, and was able by its sale to present his son with a number of really useful articles of a higher value than I had ever been able to give before to any chief In doing tliis, of course, I appeared to trade, but, feeling I had a right to do so, I felt per- fectly easy in my mind ; and, as I still held the view of the inex- i ClIAP. IX. PKESENTS TO SEKELETU. 191 pediency of combining the two professions, I was glad of the proposal of one of the most honom-able merchants of Cape Town, Mr. H. E. Eutherford, that he should risk a sum of money in Fleming's hands, for the pm-pose of attempting to develop a trade with the Makololo. It was to this man I suggested Sekeletu should sell the tusks which he had presented for my acceptance, but the cliief refused to take them back from me. The goods which Fleming had brought were ill adapted for the use of the natives, but he got a pretty good load of ivory in exchange ; and though it was his first attempt at trading, and the distance tra- velled over made the expenses enormous, he was not a loser by the trip. Other traders followed, who demanded 90 lbs. of ivory for a musket. The Makololo, knowing nothing of steelyards, but supposing that they were meant to cheat them, declined to trade except by exchanging one bull and one cow elephant's tusk for each g-un. Tliis Avould average 70 lbs. of ivory, which sells at the Caj)e for 5^. per pound, for a secondhand musket w^orth 10s. I, being sixty miles distant, did not witness this attempt at barter, but, anxious to enable my countrymen to drive a brisk trade, told the Makololo to sell my ten tusks on then- own account for what- ever they would bring. Seventy tusks were for sale, but, the parties not understanding each other's talk, no trade was esta- blished ; and when I passed the spot some time afterwards, I found that the whole of that ivory had been destroyed by an accidental fire, which broke out in the village when all the people were absent. Success in trade is as much dependent on know- ledge of the language as success in travelling. I had brought with me as presents an imj)roved breed of goats, fowls, and a pair of cats. A superior bull was bought, also as a gift to Sekeletu, but I was compelled to leave it on account of its having become footsore. As the Makololo are very fond of im- proving the breed of their domestic animals, they were much pleased with my selection. 1 endeavom-ed to bring the bull, in performance of a promise made to Sebituane before he died. Admiring a calf wliicli we had with us, he proposed to give me a cow for it, which in the native estimation was offering three times its value. I presented it to him at once, and promised to bring him another and a better one. Sekeletu was much gratified by my attempt to keep my word given to Ins father. They have two breeds of cattle among them. One caUed the 192 THE LOOKIXG-GLASS. Chap. IX. Batoka, because captured from that tribe, is of dimiuutiye size, but very beautiful ; and closely resembles the short-homs of our own country. The little pair presented by the Eong of Portugal to H.E.H. the Prince Consort, is of this breed. They are very tame, and remarkably plaj^ul ; they may be seen l}Tng on their sides by the fires in the evening ; and, when the herd goes out, the herdsman often precedes them, and has only to commence capering to set them all a-gambolling. The meat is superior to that of the large animal. The other, or Barotse ox, is much larger, and comes from the fertile Barotse Valley. They stand high on then- legs, often nearly six feet at the TNdthers ; and they have large horns. Those of one of a similar breed that we brought fr'om the lake measured from tip to tip eight and a half feet The Makololo are in the habit of sha^-ing off a little from one side of the horns of these animals when still growing, in order to make them curve in that direction and assume fantastic shapes. The stranger the curvature, the more handsome the ox is con- sidered to be, and the longer this ornament of the cattle-pen is spared to beautify the herd. This is a very ancient custom in Afi'ica, for the tributary tribes of Etliiopia are seen, on some of the most ancient Egyptian monuments, bringing contorted-homed cattle into Egj^t. All are remarkably fond of thefr cattle, and spend much time in ornamenting and adorning them. Some are branded all over ^vith a hot knife, so as to cause a permanent discolom-ation of the hair, in lines like the bands on the hide of a zebra. Pieces of skin two or three inches long and broad are detached, and allowed to heal in a dependent position around the head — a strange style of ornament; indeed, it is difficult to conceive in what their notion of beauty consists. The women have somewhat the same ideas mth om^selves of what constitutes comeliness. They came fr'equently and asked for the looking-glass; and the remarks they made — w^hile I was engaged in reading, and apparently not attending to them — on fii'st seeing themselves therein, were amusingly ridiculous. " Is that me ? " " What a big mouth I have ! " " My ears are as big as j)umpkin-leaves." " I have no chin at all." Or, " I would have been pretty, but am spoiled by these high cheek-bones." " See how my head shoots up in the middle ! " laughing vociferously all the time at theii- o^vn jokes. They readily perceive any defect in each other, and give nick- Chap. IX. MODE OF PREPARING SKINS. 193 names accordingly. One man came alone to have a quiet gaze at Lis own features once, wlien he thought I was asleep : after I twisting his mouth about in various directions, he remarked to himself, " People say I am ugly, and how very ugly I am indeed!" The Makololo use all the skins of their oxen for making either mantles or shields. For the former, the hide is stretched out by means of pegs, and dried. Ten or a dozen men then collect round it ^vith small adzes, which, when sharpened with an iron bodldn, are capable of shaving off the substance of the sldn on the fleshy side until- it is quite thin; when sufficiently thin, a quantity of brain is smeared over it, and some thick milk. Then an instrument made of a number of u'on spikes tied round a piece of w^ood, so that the points only project beyond it, is appKed to it in a carding fashion, until the fibres of the bulk of it are quite loose. MiQv or butter is applied to it again, and it forms a gar- ment nearly as soft as cloth. The shields are made of hides partially dried in the sun, and then beaten with hammers until they are stiff and dry. Two broad belts of a differently-coloui'ed sldn are sew^ed into them longitudinally, and sticks inserted to make them rigid and not liable to bend easily. The shield is a gTeat protection in their way of fighting with spears, but they also trust largely to their agihty in springing aside from the coming javelin. The sliield assists when so many spears are thrown that it is impossible not to receive some of them. Their spears are light javehns ; and, i judging from what I have seen them do in elephant-hunting, I j believe, when they have room to make a run and discharge them ; mth the aid of the jerk of stopping, they can throw them between I forty and fifty yards. They give them an upwai'd direction in the discharge, so that they come down on the object with acce- lerated force. I saw a man w^ho in battle had received one in the shin ; the excitement of the moment prevented his feeling any pain ; but, when the battle was over, the blade was found to have spht the bone, and become so impacted in the cleft that no force could extract it. It was necessary to take an axe and press the split bone asunder before the weapon could be taken out. o 194 THE FEVER. CHAPTER X. i 11 The fever — Its symptoms — Remedies of the native doctors — Hospitality || of Sekeletu and his people — One of their reasons for polygamy — They |l I cnltivate largely — Tlie Makalaka or subject tribes — Sebitiiane's policy j' respecting them — Their affection for him — Products of the soil — J Instrument of culture — The tribute — Distributed by the chief — A i warlike demonstration — Lechulatebe's provocations — The Makololo de- i termine to punish him — The Bechuanas — Meaning of the term — Three \ divisions of the great family of South Africans. On the 30th of May I was seized with fever for the first time. 1 We reached the town of Linyanti on the 23rd ; and as my habits I were suddenly changed from great exertion to comparative in- activity, at the commencement of the cold season I suffered from 1 1 a severe attack of stoppage of the secretions, closely resembling I I a common cold. Warm baths and drinks relieved me, and I had no idea but that I was now recovering from the effects of * a cliill, got by leaving the warm waggon in the evening in order to conduct family-worship at my people's fire. But on the 2nd of June a relapse showed to the Makololo, who knew the com- plaint, that my indisposition was no other than the fever, with which I have since made a more intimate acquaintance. Cold east winds prevail at this time ; and as they come over the extensive flats inundated by the Chobe, as well as many other districts where pools of rain-water are now drying up, they may be supposed to be loaded with malaria and watery vapour, and many cases of fever follow. The usual symptoms of stopped secretion are manifested — sliivering and a feeling of coldness, though the skin is quite hot to the touch of another. The heat in the axilla, over the heart and region of the stomach, was in my case 100® ; but along the spine and at the nape of the neck 103°. The internal processes were all, with the exception of the kidneys and liver, stopped ; the latter, in its efforts to free the blood of noxious particles, often secretes enormous quantities of bile. There were pains along the spine, and frontal headache. Anxious to ascertain whether the natives possessed the know- j ledge of any remedy of wliich we were ignorant, I requested the ' assistance of one of Sekeletu's doctors. He put some roots into Chap. X. NATIVE EEMEDIES. 195 a pot with water, and, when it was boiling, placed it on a spot beneath a blanket tln^own around both me and it. This pro- duced no immediate effect ; he then got a small bundle of different kinds of medicinal woods, and, burning them in a potsherd nearly to ashes, used the smoke and hot vapour arising from them as an auxiliary to the other in causing diaphoresis. I fondly hoped that they had a more potent remedy than our own medicines afford; but after being stewed in their vapom'-baths, smoked like a red herring over green twigs, and charmed secundem artem, I concluded that I could cure the fever more quickly than they can. If we employ a wet sheet and a mild aperient in combination with quinine, in addition to the native remedies, they are an important aid in curing the fever, as they seem to have the same stimulating effects on the alimentary canal, as these means have on the external surface. Purgatives, general bleedings, or indeed any violent remedies, are injurious ; and the appearance of a herpetic eruption near the mouth is regarded as an evidence that no internal organ is in danger. There is a good deal in not " givLQg in " to this disease. He who is low-spiiited, and apt to despond at every attack, will die sooner than the man who is not of such a melanchoHc nature. The Makololo had made a garden and planted maize for me, that, as they remarked, when I was parting with them to pro- ceed to the Cape, I might have food to eat when I returned, as well as other people. The maize was now poimded by the women into fine meal. This they do in large wooden mortars, the exact Egyptian Pestle and Mortar, Sieves, Com Vessels, and Kilt, identical with those in use by the Makololo and Makalaka.— From Sir G. Wilkinson's ' Ancient Egyptians.' o 2 196 EXTENSIVE CULTIVATION OF LAND. Chap. X. counterpart of wMch may be seen depicted on the Egyptian monuments. Sekeletu added to this good supply of meal ten or twelve jars of honey, each of wliich contained about two gallons. Liberal supplies of ground-nuts (Arachis hypogoea) were also fur- nished every time the tributary tribes brought their dues to Linyanti, and an ox was given for slaughter every week or two. Sekeletu also appropriated two cows to be milked for us every morning and evening. This was in accordance with the acknow- ledged rule tlnoughout this country, that the chief should feed all strangers who come on any special business to him, and take up then abode in his kotla. A present is usually given in return for the hospitahty, but, except in cases where their aboriginal customs have been modified, notliing would be asked. Em^opeans spoil the feehng that hospitality is the sacred duty of the chiefs, by what in other circumstances is laudable conduct. No sooner do they arrive than they offer to pm^chase food, and, instead of waiting till a meal is prepared for them in the evening, cook for themselves, and then often decline even to partake of that which has been made ready for their use. A present is also given, and before long the natives come to expect a gift without having offered any equivalent. Strangers frequently have acquaintances among the under- chiefs, to whose establishments they turn aside, and are treated on the same principle that others are when they are the guests of the chief. So generally is the duty admitted, that one of the \ most cogent arguments for polygamy is, that a respectable man with only one wife could not entertain strangers as he ought. This reason has especial weight where the women are the chief cultivators of the soil, and have the control over the corn, as at Kolobeng. The poor, however, who have no friends, often suffer much hunger, and the very Idnd attention Sebituane lavished on all such, was one of the reasons of his great popularity in the country. The Makololo cultivate a large extent of land around their villages. Those of them who are real Basutos still retain the habits of that tribe, and may be seen going out with their wives with their hoes in hand ; a state of things never witnessed at Kolobeng, or among any other Bechuana or Caffre tribe. The great chief Moshesh affords an example to his people annually, by not only taldng the hoe in hand, but working hard with it on certain public occasions. His Basutos are of the same family Chap. X. PKODUCTS OF SOIL-TEIBUTE. 197 with the Makololo to whom I refer. The younger Makololo, who have been accustomed from then* infancy to lord it over the conquered Makalaka, have unfortunately no desire to imitate the agricultural tastes of their fathers, and expect their subjects to perform all the manual labour. They are the aristocracy of the country, and once possessed almost unlimited power over their vassals. Their privileges were, however, much abridged by Sebituane himself. I have already mentioned that the tribes which Sebituane subjected in this great country, pass by the general name of Makalaka. The Makololo were composed of a great number of other tribes, as well as of these central negroes. The nucleus of the whole were Basuto, who came with Sebituane from a com- paratively cold and liilly region in the south. When he con- quered various tribes of the Bechuanas, as Bakwains, Bangwa- ketze, Bamangwato, Batauana, &c., he incorporated the young of these tribes into his own. Great mortality by fever having taken place in the original stock, he wisely adopted the same plan of absorption on a large scale with the Makalaka. So we found him with even the sons of the cliiefs of the Barotse closely attached to his person ; and they say to this day, if anytliing else but natural death had assailed their father, every one of them would have laid down liis life in his defence. One reason for their strong affection was their emancipation by the decree of Sebituane, " all are children of the chief." The Makalaka cultivate the Solcus sorghum, or dura, as the principal grain, with maize, two Idnds of beans, ground-nuts (Araehis hypogoea), pumpkins, water-melons, and cucumbers. They depend for success entirely upon rain. Those who live in the Barotse valley cultivate in addition the sugar-cane, sweet- potato, and manioc {Jatropha manihot). The climate there, how- ever, is warmer than at Linyanti, and the Makalaka increase the fertility of their gardens by rude attempts at artificial irrigation. The instrument of culture over all this region is a hoe, the iron of which the Batoka and Banyeti obtain from the ore by smelting. The amount of iron which they produce annually may be understood, when it is known that most of the hoes in use at Linyanti are the tribute imposed on the smiths of those subject tribes. Sekeletu receives tribute from a gTcat number of tribes in 198 WAELffiE DEMOXSTRATIOX. Chap. X. A Batoka hoe. com or dura, ground-nuts, hoes, spears, honey, canoes, paddles, wooden vessels, tobacco, mutokuane {Cannabis sativa), various wild fruits (dried), prepared skins, and ivory. When these articles are brought into the kotla, Sekeletu has the honour of dividing them among the loungers who usually congregate there. A small portion only is reserved for himself. Tlie ivory belongs nominally to him too, but this is simply a way of making a fair distribution of the profits. The chief sells it only with the approbation of liis counsellors, and the proceeds are distri- buted in open day among the people as before. He has the choice of everytliing; but if he is not more liberal to others than to himseK, he loses in popularity. I have known instances in this and other tribes in which individuals aggrieved, because they had been overlooked, fled to other chiefs. One discon- tented person, having fled to Lechulatebe, Avas encouraged to go to a village of the Bapalleng, on the river Cho or Tso, and abstracted the tribute of ivory thence which ought to have come to Sekeletu. This theft enraged the whole of the Makololo, because they all felt it to be a personal loss. Some of Lechu- latebe's people having come on a visit to Linyanti, a demonstra- tion was made, in which about five hundred Makololo, armed, went through a mimic fight ; the principal warriors pointed their spears towards the lake where Lechulatebe lives, and every thrust in that direction was answered by all with the shout, " Hoo ! " wliile every stab on the ground drew out a simulta- neous " Huzz ! " On these occasions all capable of bearing arms, even the old, must tiun out at the call. In the time of Chap. X. LECHULATEBE'S PROVOCATIONS. 19^ Sebituane, any one remaining in his house, was searched for and killed without mercy. This offence of Lechulatebe was aggravated by repetition, and by a song sung in his town accompanying the dances, which manifested joy at the death of Sebituane. He had enjoined his people to live in peace with those at the lake, and Sekeletu felt disposed to follow liis advice : but Lechulatebe had now got possession of fire-arms, and considered himself more than a match for the Makololo. His father had been dispossessed of many cattle by Sebituane, and, as forgiveness is not considered among the ^Trtues by the heathen, Lechulatebe thought he had a right to recover what he could. As I had a good deal of influence with the Makololo, I persuaded them that, before they could have peace, they must resolve to give the same blessing to others, and they never could do that without forgi^Tng and for- getting ancient feuds. It is hard to make them feel that shedding of human blood is a great crime ; they must be conscious that it is ^Tong, but, having been accustomed to bloodshed from infancy, they are remarkably callous to the enormity of the crime of destroying human life. I sent a message at the same time to Lechulatebe advising him to give up the course he had adopted, and especially the song ; because, though Sebituane was dead, the arms ^dth which he had fought were still alive and strong. Sekeletu, in order to follow up his father's instructions and promote peace, sent ten cows to Lechulatebe to be exchanged for sheep ; these animals thrive well in a bushy country like that around the lake, but will scarcely Kve in the flat prairies between the net-work of waters north of the Chobe. The men who took the cows carried a number of hoes to purchase goats besides. Lechulatebe took the cows and sent back an equal number of sheep. Now, according to the relative value of sheep and cows in these parts, he ought to have sent sixty or seventy. One of the men who had hoes was trying to purchase in a village without formal leave from Lechulatebe ; this chief punished him by making him sit some hours on the broiling hot sand (at least 130°). This farther offence put a stop to amicable relations between the two tribes altogether. It was a case in which a very small tribe, commanded by a weak and foohsh chief, had got possession of fire-arms, and felt conscious of 200 MEANING OF THE TEEM " BECHUANAS." Chap. X. ability to cope "svitli a numerous and warlike race. Such cases are tlie only ones in which the possession of fire-arms does evil. The universal effect of the diffusion of the more potent instru- ments of warfare in Africa is the same as among ourselves. Fire-arms reuder wars less frequent and less bloody. It is indeed exceedingly rare to hear of two tribes having guns, going to war with each other ; and, as nearly all the feuds, in the south at least, have been about cattle, the risk which must be incurred from long shots, generally proves a preventive to the foray. The Makololo were prevailed upon to keep the peace during my residence with them, but it was easy to perceive that public opinion was against sparing a tribe of Bechuanas for whom the Makololo entertained the most sovereign contempt. The young men would remark, " Lechulatebe is herding our cows for us ; let us only go, we shall * lift ' the price of them in sheep," &c. As the Makololo are the most northerly of the Bechuanas, we may glance back at this family of Africans before entering on the branch of the negTO family which the Makololo distinguish by the term Makalaka. The name Bechuana seems derived from the word Chuana — alike, or equal — with the personal pro- noun Ba (they) prefixed ; and therefore means fellows or equals. Some have supposed the name to have arisen from a mistake of some traveller, who, on asking individuals of this nation concern- ing the tribes living beyond them, received the answer, Ba- chuana, "they (are) alike meaning, " They are the same as we are ;" and that this nameless traveller, who never wrote a word about them, managed to engraft his mistake as a generic term on a nation extending from the Orange river to 18° south latitude.* As the name was found in use among those who had no inter- course witli Europeans, before we can receive the above expla- nation we must beheve that the unknown traveller knew the language sufficiently well to ask a question, but not to under- stand the answer. We may add, that the way in which they still continue to use the word, seems to require no fanciful interpreta- tion. AMien addressed with any degree of scorn, they reply, " We are Bachuana, or equals — we are not inferior to any of our nation," in exactly the same sense as Irishmen or Scotchmen,' in the same circumstances, would reply, " We are Britons," or * The Makololo have conquered the country as far as 14" south, but it is still peopled cliiefly hy the black tribes named Makalaka. Chap. X. DIYISIOXS OF SOUTH AFRICAN FAMILY. 201 " We are Englislimen." Most other tribes are known by the terms applied to them by strangers only, as the Cafires, Hotten- tots, and Bushmen. The Bechuanas alone use the term to them- selves as a generic one for the whole nation. They have ma- naged also to give a comprehensive name to the whites, viz. Makoa, though they cannot explain the derivation of it any more than of their own. It seems to mean " handsome," from the manner in which they use it to indicate beauty, but there is a word so very like it, meaning " infirm," or " weak," that Bur- chell's conjecture is probably the right one. " The different Hot- tentot tribes were known by names terminating in hua, which means ' man,' and the Bechuanas simply added the prefix Ma — denoting a nation :" they themselves were first known as Bri- quas or " goat-men." The language of the Bechuanas is termed Sichuana ; that of the whites (or Makoa) is called Sekoa. The Makololo, or Basuto, have carried their powers of gene- rahzation still ftirther, and arranged the other parts of the same great family of South Africans into three divisions: 1st. The Matebele, or Makonkobi — the Caffre family living on the eastern side of the coimtry ; 2nd. The Bakoni, or Basuto ; and 3rd. the Bakalahari, or Bechuanas, living in the central parts, which includes all those tribes living in or adjacent to the gTcat Kalahari Desert. 1st. The Caffres are divided by themselves into various sub- diidsions, as Ajnakosa, Amapanda, and other well-knoAvn titles. They consider the name Caffre as an insulting epithet. The Zulus of Natal belong to the same family, and they are as famed for their honesty, as their brethren who live adjacent to our colonial frontier are renowned for cattle -lifting. The Ke- corder of Natal declared of them, that history does not present another instance in which so much secm-ity for life and property has been enjoyed, as has been experienced during the whole period of English occupation by ten thousand colonists in the midst of one hundred thousand Zulus. The Matebele of Mosilikatse, li^-ing a short distance south of the Zambesi, and other tribes living a little south of Tete and Senna, are members of this same family. They are not known beyond the Zambesi river. This was the limit of the Bechuana progress north too, until Sebituane pushed his conquests farther. 2nd. The Bakoni and Basuto division contains in the south all 202 DIYISIOXS OF SOUTH AFRICAN FAMILY. Chap, X. those tribes which acknowledge Moshesh as their paramount chief ; among them we find the Batau, the Baputi, Makolokue, &c., and some mountaineers on the range Maluti, who are be- lieved by those who have carefidly sifted the evidence, to have been at one time guilty of cannibalism. This has been doubted, but their songs admit the fact to this day, and they ascribe their having left off the odious practice of entrapping human prey, to Moshesh having given them cattle. They are called Marimo and Mayabathu, men-eaters, by the rest of the Basuto, who have various subdivisions, as Makatla, Bamakakana, Mat- lapatlapa, &c. The Bakoni farther north than the Basuto are the Batlou, Ba23eri, Bapo, and another tribe of Bakuena, Bamosetla, Bama- pela or Balaka, Babiriri, Bapiri, Bahukeng, Batlokua, Baaldia- hela, &c. &c. ; the whole of which tribes are favoured with abundance of rain, and, being much attached to agriculture, raise very large quantities of grain. It is on then- industry that the more distant Boers revel in slothful abundance, and follow their slave-hunting and cattle-stealing propensities quite beyond the range of EngKsh influence and law. The Basuto imder Moshesh are equally fond of cultivating the soil: the chief labour of hoeing, driving away birds, reaping, and winnowing, falls to the TNoUing arms of the hard-working women ; but, as the men, as well as their wives, as abeady stated, always work, many have followed the advice of the missionaries, and now use ploughs and oxen, instead of the hoe. 3rd. The Bakalahari, or western branch of the Bechuana family, consists of Barolong, Bahm-utse, Bakuena, Bangwaketse, Bakaa, Bamangwato, Bakurutse, Batauana, Bamatlaro, and Bat- lapi. Among the last the success of missionaries has been greatest. They were an insignificant and filthy people when first discovered ; but, being nearest to the colony, they have had opportunities of trading ; and the long-continued peace they have enjoyed, through the influence of religious teaching, has enabled them to amass great numbers of cattle. The young, however, who do not realize their former degi-adation, often consider their present superiority over the less favom'ed tribes in the interior to be entirely owing to their own greater wisdom and more intel- lectual development. Chap. XI. ANT-HILLS— DATE-TEEES. 203 CHAPTER XL Departure from Linj^anti for Sesheke — Level country — Ant-hills — Wild date- trees — Appearance of our attendants on the march — The chiefs guard — They attempt to ride on oxback — Vast herds of the new antelopes, leches, and nakongs — The native way of hunting them — Eeception at the villages — Presents of beer and milk — Eating with the hand — The chief pro- vides the oxen for slaughter — Social mode of eating — The sugar-cane — Sekeletu's novel test of character — Cleanliness of Makololo huts — Their construction and appearance — The beds — Cross the Leeambye — Aspect of this part of the country — Tlie small antelope Tianyane unknown in the south — Hunting on foot — An eland. Having waited a month at Linyanti (lat. 18° 17' 20" S., long. 23° 50' 9" E.), we again departed, for tlie purpose of ascending the river from Shesheke (lat. 17° 31' 38" S., long. 25° 13' E.). To the Barotse countr}^, the capital of which is Nariele or Naliele (lat. 15° 24' 17" S., long. 23° 5' 54" E.), I went in company with Sekeletu and about one hundred and sixty attendants. We had most of the young men with us, and many of the under-cliiefs besides. The country between Linyanti and Sesheke is perfectly flat, except patches elevated only a few feet above the surrounding level. There are also many mounds where the gigantic antliills of the country have been situated, or still appear ; these mounds are evidently the work of the termites. No one who has not seen their gigantic structures can fancy the industry of these httle labourers ; they seem to impart fertility to the soil which has once passed through their mouths, for the Makololo find the sides of anthills the choice spots for rearing early maize, tobacco, or anything on wliich they wish to bestow especial care. In the parts tln-ough which we passed the mounds are generally covered with masses of wild date-trees ; the fruit is small, and no tree is allowed to stand long, for, having abundance of food, the Mako- lolo have no inclination to preserve ^dld fruit-trees : accordingly, when a date shoots up to seed, as soon as the fruit is ripe they cut down the tree rather than be at the trouble of climbing it. The other parts of the more elevated land have the camel-thorn (Acacia giraffce), white-thomed mimosa (Acacia horrida), and baobabs. In sandy spots there are palmjiras somewhat similar 204 THE CHIEF'S GUAED. Chap. XI. to the Indian, but with a smaller seed. The soil on all the flat parts is a rich dark tenacious loam, known as the " cotton- ground " in India ; it is covered with a dense matting of coarse grass, common on all damp spots in this country. We had the Chobe on our right, with its scores of miles of reed occupying the horizon there. It was pleasant to look back on the long-extended line of our attendants, as it twisted and bent according to the curves of the footpath, or in and out behind the mounds, the ostrich-feathers of the men waving in the wind. Some had the white ends of ox-tails on their heads, hussar fashion, and others great bunches of black ostrich-feathers, or caps made of lions' manes. Some wore red tunics, or various-coloured prints which the chief had bought from Fleming ; the common men carried burdens ; the gentlemen wallied with a small club of rhinoceros horn in their hands, and had servants to carry their shields; while the "Machaka," battle-axe men, carried their own, and were liable at any time to be sent off a hundred miles on an errand, and expected to run all the way. Sekeletu is always accompanied by his own Mopato, a number of young men of his own age. Wlien he sits down they crowd around liim ; those who are nearest eat out of the same dish, for the Makololo chiefs pride themselves on eating with their people. He eats a little, then beckons liis neighbours to partake. When they have done so, he perhaps beckons to some one at a distance to take a share ; that person starts forward, seizes the pot, and removes it to his own companions. The comrades of Sekeletu, wishing to imitate him in riding on my old horse, leaped on the backs of a number of half-broken Batoka oxen as they ran, but, having neither saddle nor bridle, the number of tinnbles they met with was a source of much amusement to the rest. Troops of leches, or, as they are here called, " lechwes," appeared feeding quite heedlessly all over the flats ; they exist here in prodigious herds, although the numbers of them and of the " nakong " that are killed annually, must be enormous. Both are water ante- lopes, and, when the lands we now tread upon are flooded, they betake themselves to the mounds I have alluded to. The Maka- laka, who are most expert in the management of their small, thin, light canoes, come gently towards them ; the men stand upright in the canoe, though it is not more than flifteen or Chap. XI. RECEPTION AT VILLAGES. 205 eighteen inches wide and about fifteen feet long ; their paddles, ten feet in length, are of a kind of Avood called molompi, very light, yet as elastic as ash. With these they either punt or paddle, according to the shallowness or depth of the water. When they perceive the antelopes beginning to move they increase their speed, and pursue them with great velocity ; they make the water dash away from the gunwale, and, though the leche goes off by a succession of prodigious bounds, its feet appearing to touch the bottom at each s^^ring, they manage to spear great numbers of them. The nakong often shares a similar fate. This is a new species, rather smaller than the leche, and, in shape, has more of paunchi- ness than any antelope I ever saw. Its gait closely resembles the gallop of a dog when tired. The hair is long and rather sparse, so that it is never sleek-looking. It is of a greyish-bro^vn colour, and has horns twisted in the manner of a koodoo, but much smaller, and with a double ridge winding roimd each of them. Its habitat is the marsh and the muddy bogs ; the gi'eat lengih of its foot between the point of the toe and supplemental hoofs enables it to make a print about a foot in lengih ; it feeds by night, and Kes hid among the reeds and rushes by day ; when pursued, it dashes into sedgy places containing water, and im- merses the whole body, leaving only the point of the nose and ends of the horns exposed. The hunters burn large patches of reed in order to drive the nakong out of his lair ; occasionally the ends of the horns project above the water ; but when it sees itself surrounded by enemies in canoes, it vnR rather allow its horns to be scorched in the burning reed, than come forth from its liiding-place. When we arrived at any village, the women all turned out to lulliloo their chief. Their shrill voices, to which they give a tremulous sound by a quick motion of the tongue, peal forth " Great Hon ! " " Great chief! " " Sleep, my lord ! " &c. The men utter similar salutations ; and Sekeletu receives all with, becoming indifference. After a few minutes' conversation and telling the news, the head man of the village, who is almost always a Mako- lolo, rises, and brings forth a number of large pots of beer. Cala- bashes, being used as drinking-cups, are handed round, and as many as can partake of the beverage do so, grasping the vessels so eagerly that they are in danger of being broken. 206 SOCIAL MODE OF EATING. Chap. XI. They bring forth also large ^pots and bowls of thick milk ; some contain six or eight gallons ; and each of these, as well as of the beer, is given to a particular person, who has the power to divide it wdth whom he pleases. The head man of any section of the tribe is generally selected for tliis office. Spoons not being generally in fashion, the milk is conveyed to the mouth with the hand. I often presented my friends with iron spoons, and it was cm-ious to observe how the habit of hand-eating pre- vailed, though they were delighted with the spoons. They lifted out a little with the utensil, then put it on the left hand, and ate it out of that. As the Makololo have great abundance of cattle, and the chief is expected to feed all who accompany him, he either selects an ox or two of his own from the numerous cattle stations that he possesses at different spots all over the country, or is presented by the headmen of the villages he visits with as many as he needs by way of tribute. The animals are killed by a thrust from a small javelin in the region of the heart, the wound being purposely small in order to avoid any loss of blood, which, with the internal parts, are the perquisites of the men who perform the work of the butcher ; hence all are eager to render service in that line. Each tribe has its own way of cutting up and dis- tributing an animal. Among the Makololo the hump and ribs belong to the chief; among the Bakwains the breast is his per- quisite. After the oxen are cut up, the different joints are placed before Sekeletu, and he apportions them among the gentlemen of the party. The whole is rapidly divided by thefr attendants, cut into long strips, and so many of these are thrown into the fires at once that they are nearly put out. Half broiled and burning hot the meat is quickly handed round ; every one gets a moutlifiil, but no one except the chief has time to masticate. It is not the enjoyment of eating they aim at, but to get as much of the food into the stomach as possible dmng the short time the others are cramming as well as themselves, for no one can eat more than a mouthful after the others have finished. They are eminently gregarious in their eating ; and, as they despise any one who eats alone, I always pom^ed out two cups of coffee at my own meals, so that the chief, or some one of the principal men, might partake along with me. They all soon become very Chap. XI. MAKOLOLO HUTS. 207 fond of coffee ; and, indeed, some of the tribes attribute greater fecundity to the daily use of this beverage. They were all well acquainted with the sugar-cane, as they cultivate it in the Bai'otse country, but knew nothing of the method of extracting the sugar from it. They use the cane only for chewing. Seke- letu, relishing the sweet coffee and biscuits, of which I then had a store, said, " he knew my heart loved him by finding his o^vn heait warming to my food." He had been visited during my absence at the Cape by some traders and Griquas, and "their coffee did not taste half so nice as mine, because they loved liis ivory and not himself." This was certainly an original mode of discerning character. Sekeletu and I had each a little gipsy-tent in which to sleep. The Makololo huts are generally clean, wliile those of the Maka- laka are infested with vermin. The cleanliness of the former is o\nng to the habit of frequently smearing the floors with a plaster comjiosed of cowdung and earth. If we slept in the tent in some Ndllages, the mice ran over our faces and disturbed om' sleep, or limigry prowLing dogs would eat our shoes and leave only the soles, ^yhen they were guilty of this, and other misdemeanours, we got the loan of a hut. The best sort of Makololo huts consist of three circular walls, with small holes as doors, each similar to that ill a dog-house ; and it is necessary to bend down the body to get hi, even w^hen on all-fours. The roof is formed of reeds or straight sticks, iu shape Hke a Chinaman's hat, bound firmly together yvith circular bands, wliich are lashed with the strong inner bark of the mimosa-tree. WTien all prepared except the thatch, it is lifted on to the circular wall, the rim resting yn a circle of poles, between each of wliich the third wall is built. The roof is thatched with fine grass, and sewed with the same material as the lashings ; and, as it projects far beyond the walls, and reaches within fom- feet of the gTound, the shade is the best to be found hi the country. These huts are very cool ia the hottest day, but are close and deficient in ventilation by night. The bed is a mat made of rushes sewn together with twine ; the hip-bone soon becomes sore on the hard flat surface, as we are not allowed to make a hole ia the floor to receive the promi- nent part called trochanter by anatomists, as we do when sleep- ing on grass or sand. 208 THE LEEAMBYE. Chap. XI. Our course at this time led us to a part above Seslieke, called Katonga, where there is a village belonging to a Bashubia man named Sekhosi— latitude 17° 29' 13", longitude 24° 33'. The river here is somewhat broader than at Sesheke, and certainly not less than six hundred yards. It flows somewhat slowly in the first part of its eastern course. When the canoes came from Sek- hosi to take us over, one of the comrades of Sebituane rose, and, looking to Sekeletu, called out, " The elders of a host always take the lead m an attack." This was understood at once ; and Sekeletu, with all the young men, were obliged to give the elders the precedence, and remain on the southern bank and see that all went orderly into the canoes. It took a considerable time to ferry over the whole of our large party, as, even with quick paddling, from six to eight minutes were spent in the mere passage fr'om bank to bank. Several days were spent in collecting canoes fi*om different villages on the river, which we now learned is called by the whole of the Barotse the Liambai, or Leeambye. This we could not ascertairi on our first visit, and, consequently, called the river after the town, "Sesheke." Tliis term Sesheke means "white sand-banlis," many of which exist at tliis part. There is another village in the valley of the Barotse likewise called Sesheke, and for the same reason ; but the term Leeambye means " the large river," or the river par excellence. Luambeji, Luambesi, Ambezi, Ojimbesi, and Zambesi, &c., are names applied to it at different parts of its course, according to the dialect spoken, and all pos- sess a similar signification, and express the native idea of tliis magnificent stream being the main di-ain of the country. In order to assist in the support of our large party, and at the same time to see the adjacent country, I went several times, during om* stay, to the north of the village for game. The country is covered with clumps of beautiful trees, among which fine open glades stretch away in every direction ; when the river is in. flood these are inundated, but the tree-covered elevated spots are much more numerous here than in the country between the Chobe and the Leeambye. The soil is dark loam, as it is everywhere on spots reached by the inundation, while among the trees it is sandy, and not covered so densely with grass as else- where. A sandy ridge covered with trees, running parallel to. ClIAP. XI. THE TIANYANE. 209 and about eight miles from the river, is the limit of the inmida- tion on the north ; there are large tracts of this sandy forest in that direction, till you come to other large districts of alluvial soil and fewer trees. The latter soil is always found in the vicinity of rivers which either now overflow their banks annually, or formerly did so. The people enjoy rain in suJfficient quantity to raise very large suppKes of gTain and gTound-nuts. This district contains great numbers of a small antelope named Tianyane, unknown in the south. It stands about eighteen inches high, is very graceful in its movements, and utters a cry of alarm not unlike that of the domestic fowl ; it is of a broAvnish- red colour on the sides and back, with the belly and lower part of the tail white ; it is very timid, but the maternal affection that the Kttle thing bears to its young T\ill often induce it to offer battle even to a man approaching it. When the young one is too tender to run about Avith the dam, she puts one foot on the prominence about the seventh cervical vertebra, or withers ; the instinct of the young enables it to understand that it is now required to kneel down, and to remain quite still till it hears the bleating of its dam. If you see an other\vise gre- garious she-antelope separated from the herd, and going alone anywhere, you may be sure she has laid her little one to sleep in some cozy spot. The colour of the han- in the young is better adapted for assimilating it with the ground than that of the older animals, which do not need to be screened from the observation of birds of prey. I observed the Arabs at Aden, when making their camels kneel down, press the thumb on the withers in exactly the same way the antelopes do with their young ; probably they have been led to the custom by seeing this plan adopted by the gazelle of the Desert. Great numbers of buffaloes, zebras, tsessebes, tahaetsi, and eland, or pohu, gTazed undistm^bed on these plains, so that very little exertion was reqmred to secm-e a fair supj)ly of meat for the party during the necessary delay. Hunting on foot, as aU those who have engaged in it in this country will at once admit, is very hard work indeed. The heat of the sun by day is so great, even in winter, as it now was, that, had there been any one on whom I could have throAvn the task, he would have been most welcome to all the sport the toil is supposed to impart. p 210 AN ELAND SHOT. Chap. XI. But the Makololo shot so badly, that, in order to save my powder, I was obliged to go myself. We shot a beautiM cow-eland, standing in the shade of a fine tree. It was evident that she had lately had her calf killed by a lion, for there were five long deep scratches on both sides of her hind-quarters, as if she had run to the rescue of her calf, and the lion, leaving it, had attacked herself, but was unable to pull her down. When lying on the ground, the milk flowing from the large udder showed that she must have been seeking the shade, from the distress its non-removal in the natural manner caused. She was a be^-utiful creature, and Lebeole, a Makololo gentleman who accompanied me, speaking in reference to its size and beauty, said, "Jesus ought to have given us these instead of cattle." It was a new undescribed variety of this splendid antelope. It was marked with narrow white bands across the body, exactly lilie those of the koodoo, and had a black patch of more than a hand-breadth on the outer side of the fore arm. Chap. XII. ASCENT OF THE LEEAMBYE. 211 CHAPTER XXL Procure canoes and ascend the Leeambye — Beautiful islands — Winter land- scape — Industry and skill of the Banyeti — Eapids — Falls of Gonye — Tradition — Annual inundations — Fertility of the great Barotse valley — Execution of two conspirators — The slave-dealer's stockade — Naliele, the capital, built on an artificial mound — Santuru, a great hunter — The Barotse method of commemorating any remarkable event — Better treat- ment of women — More religious feeling — Belief in a future state, and in the existence of spiritual beings — Gardens — Fish, fruit, and game — Pro- ceed to the limits of the Barotse country — Sekeletu provides rowers and a herald — The river and vicinity — Hippopotamus-hunters — No healthy location — Determine to go to Loanda — Buffaloes, elands, and lions above Libonta — Interview with the Mambari — Two Arabs from Zanzibar — Their opinion of the Portuguese and the English — Reach the town of Ma- Sekeletu — Joy of the people at this the first visit of their chief — Return to Sesheke — Heathenism. Having at last procured a sujBScient number of canoes, we began to ascend the river. I had the choice of the whole fleet, and selected the best, though not the largest ; it was thirty-four feet long by twenty inches wide. I had six paddlers, and the larger canoe of Sekeletu had ten. They stand upright, and keep the stroke with great precision, though they change from side to side as the course demands. The men at the head and stern are selected from the strongest and most expert of the whole. The canoes, being flat-bottomed, can go into very shallow water ; and whenever the men can feel the bottom they use the paddles, which are about eight feet long, as poles to punt with. Our fleet consisted of thirty-three canoes, and about one hundred and sixty men. It was beautiftd to see them skimming along so quickly, and keeping the time so well. On land the Makalaka fear the Makololo ; on water the Makololo fear them, and cannot prevent them from racing with each other, dashing along at the top of their speed, and placing their masters' lives in danger. In the event of a capsize many of the Makololo would sink like stones. A case of this kind happened on the first day of our voyage up. The wind, blowing generally from the east, raises very large waves on the Leeambye. An p 2 212 ISLANDS— THE BANYETI. Chap. XII. old doctor of the Makololo had his canoe filled by one of these waves, and, being unable to swim, was lost; the Barotse w^ho were in the canoe with him saved themselves by swimming, and were afraid of being punished vdth. death in the evening for not saving the doctor as well. Had he been a man of more influence, they certainly would have suffered death. We proceeded rapidly up the river, and I felt the pleasure of looking on lands which had never been seen by an European before. The river is, indeed, a magnificent one, often more than a mile broad, and adorned with many islands of from tln-ee to five miles in lengih. Both islands and banks are covered with forest, and most of the trees on the brink of the water send down roots from their branches like the banian, or Ficus Indica. The islands at a little distance seem great rounded masses of sylvan vegetation reclining on the bosom of the glorious stream. The beauty of the scenery of some of the islands is greatly in- creased by the date-palm, with its gracefully curved fronds and refreshing light-green colom-, near the bottom of the picture, and the lofty palmyra towering far above, and casting its feathery foliage against a cloudless sky. It being winter, we had the strange colom-ing on the banks which many parts of African landscape assume. The country adjacent to the river is rocky and undulating, abounding in elephants and all the other large game, except leches and nakongs, wliich seem generally to avoid stony ground. The sod is of a reddish colour, and very fertde, as is attested by the great quantity of grain raised annually by the Banyeti. A gTcat many \illages of tliis poor and very in- dustrious people are situated on both banks of the river ; they are expert hunters of the hippopotami and other animals, and very proficient in the manufactm-e of articles of wood and iron. The whole of tliis part of the country being infested with the tsetse, they are imable to rear domestic animals. This may have led to their skill in handicraft works. Some make large w^ooden vessels with very neat Kds, and wooden bowls of all sizes; and since the idea of sitting on stools has entered the Makololo mind, they have shown gTeat taste in the different forms given to the legs of these pieces of furniture. Other Banyeti, or Manyeti, as they are called, make neat and strong baskets of the split roots of a certain tree, whilst others Chap. XII. RAPIDS AND FALLS. 213 excel in pottery and iron. I cannot find that they have ever been warlike. Indeed, the wars in the centre of the country, where no slave-trade existed, have seldom been about anything else but cattle. So well Imown is this, that several tribes refuse to keep cattle because they tempt their enemies to come and steal. Nevertheless they have no objection to eat them when offered, and their country admits of being well stocked. I have heard of but one war having occmTcd from another cause. Three brothers, Barolongs, fought for the possession of a woman who was considered worth a battle, and the tribe has remained per- manently divided ^er since. From the bend up to the north, called Katima-molelo (I quenched fire), the bed of the river is rocky, and the stream runs fast, forming a succession of rapids and cataracts, wliich prevent continuous navigation when the water is low. The rapids are not visible when the river is full, but the cataracts of Nambwe, Bombwe, and Kale must always be dangerous. The fall at each of these is between fom- and six feet. But the falls of Gonye present a much more serious obstacle. There we were obKged to take the canoes out of the water, and carry them more than a mile by land. The fall is about thirty feet. The main body of water, which comes over the ledge of rock when the river is low, is collected iato a space seventy or eighty yards wide before it takes the leap, and, a mass of rock being thrust forward against the roaring torrent, a loud sound is produced. Tradition reports the destruction in this place of two liippopotamus-hunters, who, over eager in the pm-suit of a wounded animal, were, with their intended prey, drawn down into the frightfid gulf. There is also a tradition of a man, evidently of superior mind, who left his own countrymen, the Barotse, and came do^vn the river, took advantage of the falls, and led out a portion of the water there for inigation. Such minds must have arisen from time to time in these regions, as well as in om- oym country, but, ignorant of the use of letters, they have left no memorial behind them. We dug out some of an inferior kind of potato [Sisinydne) fi-om his garden, for when once planted it never dies out. Tliis root is bitter and waxy, though it is cultivated. It was not in flower, so I cannot say whether it is a solanaceous plant or not. One never expects to find a gTave nor a stone of remembrance set 214 THE BAROTSE VALLEY. ' Chap. XII. up in Africa ; the very rocks are illiterate, they contain so few fossils. Those here are of reddish variegated hardened sandstone with madrepore-holes in it. This, and broad horizontal strata of trap, sometimes a hundred miles in extent, and each layer having an inch or so of black silicious matter on it, as if it had floated there while in a state of fusion, form a great part of the bottom of the central valley. These rocks, in the southern part of the country especially, are often covered with twelve or fifteen feet of soft calcareous tufa. At Bombwe we have the same trap, with radi- ated zeolite, probably mesotype, and it again appears at the confluence of the Chobe, further down. As we passed up the river, the diflerent villages of Banyeti turned out to present Sekeletu with food and skins, as their tribute. One large village is placed at Gonye, the inhabitants of which are required to assist the Makololo to carry their canoes past the falls. The tsetse here lighted on us even in the middle of the stream. This we crossed repeatedly, in order to make short cuts at bends of the river. The course is however remark- ably straight among the rocks ; and here the river is shallow, on account of the great breadth of surface which it covers. When we came to about 16° 16' S. latitude, the liigh wooded banks seemed to leave the river, and no more tsetse appeared. Viewed from the flat reedy basin in which the river then flowed, the banks seemed prolonged into ridges of the same wooded character two or three hundred feet high, and stretched away to the N.N.E. and N.N.W. until they were twenty or thirty miles apart. The intervening space, nearly one hundred miles in length, with the Leeambye winding gently near the middle, is the true Barotse valley. It bears a close resemblance to the valley of the Nile, and is inundated annually, not by rains, but by the Leeambye, exactly as Lower Egypt is flooded by the Nile. The villages of the Barotse are built on mounds, some of which are said to have been raised artificially by Santuru, a former chief of the Barotse, and during the inundation the whole valley assumes the appear- ance of a large lake, with the villages on the mounds like islands, just as occurs in Egypt with the villages of the Egyptians. Some portion of the waters of inundation comes from the north-west, where great floodings also occur, but more comes from the north and north-east, descending the bed of the Leeambye itself. Chap. XII. EXECUTION OF TWO CONSPIRATORS. 215 There are but few trees in this valley : those which stand on the mounds were nearly all transplanted by Santuru for shade. The soil is extremely fertile, and the people are never in want of grain, for, by taking advantage of the moisture of the inun- dation, they can raise two crops a year. The Barotse are strongly attached to this fertile valley ; they say, " Here hunger is not known." There are so many things besides corn which a man can find in it for food, that it is no wonder they desert from Linyanti to return to this place. The great valley is not put to a tithe of the use it might be. It is covered With coarse succulent grasses, which afford ample pasturage for large herds of cattle ; these thrive wonder- fully, and give milk copiously to their owTiers. ^Mlen the valley is flooded, the cattle are compelled to leave it and go to the higher lands, where they fall off in condition ; their return is a time of joy. It is impossible to say whether this valley, which contains so much moisture, would raise wheat as the valley of the Nile does. It is probably too rich, and would make corn run entirely to straw, for one species of grass was observed twelve feet high, with a stem as thick as a man's thumb. At present the pas- turage is never eaten off, though the Makololo possess immense herds of cattle. There are no large towns ; the mounds on which the towns and villages are built being all small, and the people require to live apart on account of their cattle. This visit was the first Sekeletu had made to these parts since he attained the chieftainship. Those who had taken part with Mpepe were consequently in great terror. When we came to the town of Mpepe's father, as he and another man had coun- selled Mamochisane to put Sekeletu to death and marry Mpepe, the two were led forth and tossed into the river. Nokuane was again one of the executioners. When I remonstrated against human blood being shed in the off-hand way in which they were proceeding, the counsellors justified their acts by the evidence given by Mamochisane, and calmly added, " You see we are still Boers ; we are not yet taught." Mpepe had given full permission to the Mambari slave-dealera to trade in all the Batoka and Bashukulompo villages to the 216 NALIELE. Chap. XII. east of this. He had given them cattle, ivory, and children, and had received in return a large blunderbuss to be mounted as a cannon. A^^ien the slight circumstance of my having covered the body of the cliief with my own, deranged the whole conspiracy, the Mambari, in their stockade, were placed in very- awkward circumstances. It was proposed to attack them and drive them out of the country at once, but, dreading a com- mencement of hostilities, I urged the difficulties of that coiu-se, and showed that a stockade defended by perhaps forty muskets would be a very serious affair. " Hunger is strong enough for that," said an under-cliief ; " a very great fellow is he." They thought of attacking them by starvation. As the chief sufferers in case of such an attack would have been the poor slaves chained in gangs, I interceded for them, and the result of an intercession of wliich they were ignorant was, that they were allowed to depart in peace. Naliele, the capital of the Barotse, is built on a mound which was constructed artificially by Santuru, and was his storehouse for grain. His own capital stood about five hundred yards to the south of that, in what is now the bed of the river. All that remains of the largest mound in the valley are a few cubic yards of earth, to erect which, cost the whole of the people of Santuru the labour of many years. The same thing has happened to another ancient site of a town, Linangelo, also on the left bank. It would seem, therefore, that the river in this part of the vaUey must be wearing eastwards. No great rise of the river is required to submerge the whole valley ; a rise of ten feet above the present low-water mark would reach the highest point it ever attains, as seen in the markings of the bank on which stood Santuru's ancient capital, and two or tliree feet more would deluge all the villages. Tliis never happens, though the water sometimes comes so near the foundations of the huts, that the people cannot move outside the walls of reeds which encircle their villages. When the river is compressed among the high rocky banks near Gonye, it rises sixty feet. The influence of the partial obstruction it meets with there, is seen in the more winding course of the river north of 16° ; and when the swell gets past Katima-molelo, it spreads out on the lands on both banks towards Sesheke. Chap. XII. BAEOTSE ERAS. 217 Santuru, at whose ancient granary we are staying, was a great hunter, and very fond of taming wild animals. His people, aware of his taste, brought to him every young antelope they could catch, and, among other things, two young hippopotami. These animals gambolled in the river by day, but never failed to remember to come up to Naliele for their suppers of milk and meal. They were the wonder of the country till a stranger, happening to come to visit Santuru, saw them reclining in the sun, and speared one of them on the supposition that it was wild. The same unlucky accident happened to one of the cats I had brought to Sekeletu. A stranger, seeing an animal he had never viewed before, killed it, and brought the trophy to the chief, thinking that he had made a very remarkable dis- covery ; we thereby lost the breed of cats, of which, from the swarms of mice, we stood in great need. On making inquiries to ascertain whether Santuru, the Mo- loiana, had ever been visited by white men, I could find no vestige of any such visit ;* there is no evidence of any of San- turu's people having ever seen a white man before the arrival of Mr. Oswell and myself in 1851. The people have, it is true, no written records ; but any remarkable event here is commemo- rated in names, as was observed by Park to be the case in the * The Barotse call themselves the Baloiana, or little Baloi, as if they had been an offset from Loi, or Lui, as it is often spelt. As Liii had been visited by Portuguese, but its position not well ascertained, my inquiries re- ferred to the identity of Naliele with Lui. On asking the headman of the Mambari party, named Porto, whether he had ever heard of Naliele being visited previously, he replied in the negative, and stated that he *' had him- self attempted to come from Bihe three times, but had always been prevented by the tribe called Ganguellas." He nearlj^ succeeded in 1852, but was driven back. He now (in 1853) attempted to go eastward from Naliele, but came back to the Barotse on being unable to go beyond Kainko's village, which is situated on the Bashukulompo river, and eight days distant. The whole party was anxious to secure a reward believed to be promised by the Portuguese Government. Their want of success confirmed my impression that I ought to go westwards. Porto kindly offered to aid me, if I Avould go with him to Bihe ; but when I declined, he preceded me to Loanda, and was publishing his Journal when I arrived at that city. Ben Habib told me that Porto had sent letters to Mosambique by the Arab, Ben Chombo, whom I knew ; and he has since asserted, in Portugal, that he himself went to Mosam- bique as well as his letters ! 218 THE MAMBAEI. Chap. XII. countries lie traversed. The year of our arrival is dignified by the name of the year when the white men came, or of Sebitu- ane's death ; but they prefer the former, as they avoid, if pos- sible, any direct reference to the departed. After my wife's first visit, great numbers of children were named Ma-Kobert, or mother of Kobert, her eldest child ; others were named Gun, Horse, Waggon, Monare, J esus, &c. ; but though our names, and those of the native Portuguese who came in 1853, were adopted, there is not a trace of anything of the sort having happened previously among the Barotse : the visit of a white man is such a remarkable event, that, had any taken place during the last three hundred years, there must have remained some tradition of it. But Santuru was once visited by the Mambari, and a distinct recollection of that visit is retained. They came to purchase slaves, and both Santm-u and his head men refused them per- mission to buy any of the people. The Makololo quoted this precedent when speaking of the Mambari, and said that they, as the present masters of the country, had as good a right to expel them as Santuru. The Mambari reside near Bihe, under an Ambonda chief named Kangombe. They profess to use the slaves for domestic purposes alone. Some of these Mambari visited us while at Naliele. They are of the Ambonda family, which inhabits the country south- east of Angola, and speak the Bunda dialect, which is of the same family of languages with the Barotse, Bayeiye, &c., or those black tribes comprehended under the general term Makalaka. They plait their hair in three-fold cords, and lay them carefully down around the sides of the head. They are quite as dark as the Barotse, but have among them a number of half-castes, with their peculiar yellow sickly hue. On inquiring why they had fled on my approach to Linyanti, they let me know that they had a vivid idea of the customs of English cruisers on the coast. They showed also their habits in their own country by digging up and eating, even here where large game abounds, the mice and moles which infest the country. The half-castes, or native Portuguese, could all read and write, and the head of the party, if not a real Portuguese, had European hair, and, influenced probably by the letter of recommendation which I held from the Chevalier Duprat, His Chap. XII. RELIGIOUS FEELING. 219 Most Faithful Majesty's Arbitrator in tlie British and Portu- guese Mixed Commission at Cape Town, was evidently anxious to show me all the kindness in his power. These persons I feel assured were the first individuals of Portuguese blood who ever saw the Zambesi in the centre of the country, and they had reached it two years after our discovery in 1851. The town or mound of Santuru's mother was shoTO to me ; ^ this was the first symptom of an altered state of feeling with regard to the female sex that I had observed. There are few or no cases of women being elevated to the headships of towns further south. The Barotse also showed some relics of their chief, which evinced a greater amount of the religious feeling than I had ever known displayed among Bechuanas. His more recent capital, Lilonda, built, too, on an artificial mound, is covered with different kinds of trees, transplanted when young by himself. They form a grove on the end of the mound, in which are to be seen various instruments of iron just in the state he left them. One looks like the guard of a basket-hilted sword ; another has an upright stem of the metal, on which are placed branches worked at the ends into miniature axes, hoes, and spears ; on these he was accustomed to present offerings, according as he desired favours to be conferred in undertaking hewing, agricul- ture, or fighting. The people still living there, in charge of these articles, were supported by presents from the chief ; and the Makololo sometimes follow the example. This was the nearest approach to a priesthood I met. When I asked them to part with one of these relics they replied, " 0, no, he refuses." — " Who refuses ? " — " Santuru," was their reply, showing their belief in a future state of existence. After explaining to them, as I always did when opportunity offered, the nature of true worship, and praying with them in the simple form which needs no offering from the worshipper except that of the heart, and planting some fruit-tree seeds in the grove, we departed. Another incident, which occurred at the confluence of the Leeba and Leeambye, may be mentioned here, as showing a more vivid perception of the existence of spiritual beings, and greater prone- ness to worship, than among the Bechuanas. Having taken lunar observations in the morning, I was waiting for a meridian altitude of the sun for the latitude ; my chief boatman was sitting by, in 220 GAEDENS— GAME. Chap. XII. order to pack up the instruments as soon as I had finished ; there was a large halo, about 20° in diameter, round the sun ; thinking that the humidity of the atmosphere, which tliis indicated, might betoken rain, I asked him if his experience did not lead him to the same view. " 0 no," replied he ; " it is the Barimo (gods, or departed spirits), who have called a picho ; don't you see they have the Lord (sun) in the centre ?" mile still at Naliele I walked out to Katongo (lat. 15° 16' 33"), on the ridge wliich bounds the valley of the Barotse in that direction, and found it covered with trees. It is only the com- mencement of the lands which are never inundated ; their gentle rise from the dead level of the valley much resembles the edge of the Desert in the valley of the Nile. But here the Banyeti have fine gardens, and raise great quantities of maize, millet, and native corn (Holcus sorghum), of large gi-ain and beautifully white. They grow, also, yams, sugar-cane, the Egyptian arum, sweet potato (Oonvolulus batata), two kinds of manioc or cassava (Ja- tropha manihot and J. utilissima, a variety containing scarcely any poison), besides pumpkins, melons, beans, and ground-nuts. These, with plenty of fish in the river, its branches and lagoons, wild fruits and water-fowl, always make the people refer to the Barotse as the land of plenty. The scene from the ridge, on looking back, was beautiful. One cannot see the western side of the valley in a cloudy day, such as that was when we visited the stockade, but we could see the great river glancing out at different points, and fine large herds of cattle quietly grazing on the green succulent herbage, among numbers of cattle-stations and villages which are dotted over the landscape. Leches in hundreds fed securely beside them, for they have learned only to keep out of bow-shot, or two hundred yards. When guns come into a country the animals soon learn their longer range, and begin to run at a distance of five hundred yards. I imagined the slight elevation (Katongo) might be healthy, but was informed that no part of tliis region is exempt from fever. Wlien the waters begin to retire from this vaUey, such masses of decayed vegetation and mud are exposed to the torrid sun, that even the natives suffer severely from attacks of fever. The grass is so rank in its growth, that one cannot see the black alluvial soil of the bottom of this periodical lake. Even when the grass Chap. XII. THE HERALD. 221 falls down in winter, or is " laid " by its own weight, one is obliged to lift the feet so high, to avoid being tripped up by it, as to make walking excessively fatiguing. Young leches are hidden beneath it by their dams; and the Makololo youth complain of being unable to run in the Barotse land on this account. There was evidently no healthy spot in this quarter ; and the current of the river being about four and a half miles per hom* (one hundred yards in sixty seconds), I imagined we might find what was needed in the higher lands, from which the river seemed to come. I resolved, therefore, to go to the utmost limits of the Barotse country before coming to a final conclusion. Katongo was the best place we had seen ; but in order to accomplish a complete examination, I left Sekeletu at Naliele, and ascended the river. He fuiTdshed me with men, besides my rowers, and among the rest a herald, that I might enter his villages in what is considered a dignified manner. Tliis it was supposed would be effected by the herald shouting out at the top of his voice, " Here comes the lord ; the great lion;" the latter phrase being "tau e tona," which in his imperfect way of pronunciation became " sau e tona," and so like " the great sow," that I could not receive the honour with becoming gravity, and had to entreat him, much to the annoyance of my party, to be silent. In our ascent we visited ^a number of Makololo villages, and were always received with a hearty welcome, as messengers to them of peace — which they term " sleep." They behave well in public meetings, even on the first occasion of attendance, probably from the habit of commanding the Makalaka, crowds of whom swarm in every village, and whom the Makololo women seem to consider as especially under their charge. The river presents the same appearance of low banks without trees as we have remarked it had after we came to 16° 16', until we arrive at Libonta (14° 59' S. lat.). Twenty miles beyond that, we find forest down to the water's edge, and tsetse. Here I might have turned back, as no locality can be inhabited by Europeans where that scourge exists ; but hearing that we were not far from the confluence of the river of Londa, or Lunda, named Leeba, or Loiba, and the chiefs of that country being reported to be friendly to strangers, and therefore Kkely to be of use to me on my return from the west coast, I still pushed on to latitude 14° 11' 3" S. 222 NO HEALTHY LOCATION. Chap. XH. There the Leeambye assumes the name Kabompo, and seems to be coming from the east. It is a fine large river, about three hundred yards wide, and the Leeba two hundred and fifty. The Loeti, a branch of which is called Langebongo, comes from W.N.W., through a level grassy plain named Mango ; it is about one hundred yards wide, and enters the Leeambye from the west ; the waters of the Loeti are of a light colour, and those of the Leeba of a dark mossy hue. After the Loeti joins the Leeambye the different coloured waters flow side by side for some distance unmixed. Before reaching the Loeti we came to a munber of people from the Lobale region, hunting hippopotami. They fled precipitately as soon as they saw the Makololo, leaving their canoes and all their utensils and clothing. My own Makalaka, who were accus- tomed to plunder wherever they went, rushed after them like furies, totally regardless of my shouting. As this proceeding would have destroyed my character entirely at Lobale, I took my stand on a commanding position as they returned, and forced them to lay down all the plunder on a sandbank, and leave it there for its lawful owners. It was now quite e\ddent that no healthy location could be obtained in which the Makololo would be allowed to live in peace. I had thus a fair excuse, if I had chosen to avail myself of it, of coming home and saying that the " door was shut," because the Lord's time had not yet come. But believing that it was my duty to devote some portion of my life to these (to me at least) very confiding and affectionate Makololo, I resolved to follow out the second part of my plan, though I had failed in accomplishing the first. The Leeba seemed to come from the N. and by W., or N.N.W. ; so, having an old Portuguese map, which pointed out the Coanza as rising from the middle of the continent in 9° S. lat., I thought it probable that, when we had ascended the Leeba (from 14° 11') two or three degrees, we should then be within one hun- dred and twenty miles of the Coanza, and find no difficulty in foUowiag it down to the coast near Loanda. This was the logical deduction, but, as is the case with many a plausible theory, one of the premises was decidedly defective. The Coanza, as we afterwards found, does not come from anywhere near the centre of the country. Chap. XII. LIONS— ARABS. 223 The numbers of large game above Libonta are prodigious, and they proved remarkably tame. Eighty-one buffaloes defiled in slow procession before our fire one evening within gun-shot ; and herds of splendid elands stood by day without fear at two hundred yards distance. They were all of the striped variety, and with their forearm markings, large dewlaps, and sleek skins, were a beautiful sight to see. The lions here roar much more than in the country near the lake, Zouga, and Chobe. One evening we had a good opportunity of hearing the utmost exertions the animal can make in that Ime. We had made our beds on a large sand- bank, and could be. easily seen from all sides ; a lion on the opposite shore amused himself for hours by roaring as loudly as he could, putting, as is usual in such cases, his mouth near the ground, to make the sound reverberate. The river was too broad for a ball to reach him, so we let him enjoy himself, certain that he durst not have been guilty of the impertinence in the Bushman country. Wherever the game abounds, these animals exist in proportionate numbers. Here they were very frequently seen, and two of the largest I ever saw seemed about as tall as com- mon donkeys; but the mane made their bodies appear rather lai'ger. A party of Arabs from Zanzibar were in the country at this time. Sekeletu had gone fr'om XaHele to the town of his mother before we arrived from the north, but left an ox for our use, and instructions for us to foUow him thither. We came down a branch of the Leeambye called MaiTle, which departs fr'om the main river in lat. 15° 15' 43" S., and is a fine deep stream about sixty yards wide ; it makes the whole of the country around Naliele an island. "WTien sleeping at a village in the same latitude as Naliele towD. two of the Arabs mentioned made their appearance ; they were quite as dark as the Makololo, but, having their heads shaved, I could not compare their hair with that of the inhabitants of the country. \Mien we were about to leave they came to bid adieu, but I asked them to stay and help us to eat our ox. As they had scruples about eating an animal not blooded in their own way, I gained their good will by sapng I was quite of their opinion as to getting quit of the blood, and gave them two legs of an animal slaughtered by themselves. They professed the greatest detesta- 224 TOWN OF MA-SEKELETU. Chap. XII. tion of the Portuguese, " because they eat pigs ;" and disliked the English, " because they tlu-ash them for selling slaves." I was silent about pork ; though, had they seen me at a hippopotamus two days afterwards, they would have set me down as being as much a heretic as any of that nation ; but I ventured to tell them that I agreed with the English, that it was better to let the children grow up and comfort their mothers when they became old, than to carry them away and sell them across the sea. This they never attempt to justify ; " they want them only to cultivate the land, and take care of them as their children." It is the same old story, justifying a monstrous wrong on pretence of taking (;are of those degraded portions of humanity which cannot take care of themselves — doing evil that good may come. These Arabs, or Moors, could read and write their own lan- guage readily ; and, when speaking about our Saviom-, I admired the boldness with which they informed me " that Christ was a very good prophet, but Mahomet was far greater." And with respect to their loatliing of pork, it may have some foundation in their nature ; for I have known Bechuanas, who had no pre- judice against the wild animal, and ate the tame without scruple, yet, unconscious of any cause of disgust, vomit it again. The Bechuanas south of the lake have a prejudice against eating fish, and allege a disgust to eating an)i^hing like a serpent. This may arise from the remnants of serpent-worship floating in their minds, as, in addition to this horror of eating such animals, they sometimes render a sort of obeisance to living serpents by clapping their hands to them, and refusing to destroy the reptiles ; but in the case of the hog they are conscious of no superstitious feehng. Having parted with our Arab friends, we proceeded down the Marile till we re-entered the Leeambye, and went to the town of Ma-Sekeletu (mother of Sekeletu), opposite the island of Loyela. Sekeletu had always supplied me most liberally with food, and, as soon as I arrived, presented me with a pot of boiled meat, while his mother handed me a large jar of butter, of which they make great quantities for the purpose of anointing their bodies. He had himself sometimes felt the benefit of my way of putting aside a quantity of the meat after a meal, and had Chap. XII. THE MAKOLOLO POLKA. 225 now followed my example, by ordering some to be kept for me. According to their habits, every particle of an ox is devoured at one meal ; and, as the chief cannot, without a deviation from their customs, eat alone, he is often compelled to suffer severely from hunger, before another meal is ready. We henceforth always worked into each other's hands by saving a little for each other ; and when some of the sticklers for use and custom grum- bled, I advised them to eat like men, and not like vultures. As this was the first visit wliich Sekeletu had paid to this part of his dominions, it was to many a season of great joy. The head men of each village presented oxen, milk, and beer, more than the horde which accompanied him could devour, though their abilities in that line are something wonderful. The people usually show their joy and work off their excitement in dances and songs. The dance consists of the men standing nearly naked in a circle, with clubs or small battle-axes in their hands, and each roaring at the loudest pitch of his voice, while they simultaneously lift one leg, stamp heavily twice with it, then lift the other and give one stamp with that ; this is the only move- ment in common. The arms and head are tin-own about also in every direction ; and all this time the roaring is kept up with the utmost possible vigour ; the continued stamping makes a cloud of dust ascend, and they leave a deep ring in the gi'ound where they have stood. If the scene were witnessed in a lunatic asylum it would be nothing out of the way, and quite appro- priate even, as a means of letting off the excessive excitement of the brain ; but here grey-headed men joined in the perform- ance with as much zest as others whose youth might be an excuse for making the perspu-ation stream off their bodies with the exertion. Motibe asked what I thought of the Makololo dance. I replied, " It is very hard work, and brings but small profit." " It is," replied he, " but it is very nice, and Sekeletu will give us an ox for dancing for him." He usually does slaughter an ox for the dancers when the work is over. The women stand by, clapping their hands, and occasionally one advances into the circle, composed of a hundred men, makes a few movements, and then retires. As I never tried it, and am unable to enter into the spirit of the thing, I cannot recom- mend the Makololo polka to the dancing world, but I have the Q 226 HEATHENISM. Chap. XII. authority of no less a person tlian Motibe, Sekeletu's fatlier-in- law, for sayings it is Yery nice." They often asked if white people ever danced. I thought of the disease called St. Vitus's dance, but could not say that all our dancers were affected by it, and gave an answer which, I ought to be ashamed to own, did not raise some of our young countrywomen in the estimation of the Makololo. As Sekeletu had been waiting for me at Ms mother's, we left the town as soon as I arrived, and proceeded down the river. Our speed with the stream was very great, for in one day we went from Litofe to Gonye, a distance of forty-four miles of latitude ; and if we add to this the windings of the river, in longi- tude the distance will not be much less than sixty geograpliical miles. At this rate we soon reached Sesheke, and then the iomi of Linyanti. I had been, during a nine weeks' tour, in closer contact with heathenism than I had ever been before ; and though all, in- cluding the chief, were as kind and attentive to me as possible, and there was no want of food (oxen being slaughtered daily, sometimes ten at a time, more than sufScient for the wants of all), yet to endure the dancing, roaring, and singing, the jesting, anecdotes, grumbling, quarrelling, and murdering of these cliil- dren of nature, seemed more like a severe penance than anything I had before met with in the course of my missionary duties. I took thence a more intense disgust at heathenism than I had before, and formed a greatly elevated opinion of the latent effects of missions in the south, among tribes wliich are reported to have been as savage as the Makololo. The indirect benefits, which to a casual observer lie beneath the surface and are inap- preciable, in reference to the probable wide diffusion of Cliris- tianity at some future time, are worth all the money and labour that have been expended to produce them. Chap. XIII. ARRANGEMENTS FOR JOURNEY. 227 CHAPTER XIII. Preliminary arrangements for the journey — A picho — Twenty-seven men appointed to accompany me to the west — Eagerness of the Makololo for direct trade with the coast — Effects of fever — A Makololo question — The lost journal — Reflections — The outfit for the journey — 11th Nov. 1853, leave Linyanti, and embark on the Chobe — Dangerous hippopo- tami — Banks of Chobe — Trees — The course of the river — The island Mparia at the confluence of the Chobe and the Leeambye — Anecdote — Ascend the Leeambye — A Makalaka mother defies the authority of the Makololo headman at Sesheke — Punishment of thieves — Observance of the new moon — Public addresses at Sesheke — Attention of the people — Results — Proceed up the river — The fruit which yields mix vomica — Other fruits — The rapids — Birds — Fish — Hippopotami and their young. Linyanti, September, 1853. — The object proposed to tlie Mako- lolo seemed so desirable, that it was resolved to proceed mth it, as soon as the cooling influence of the rains should be felt in November. The longitude and latitude of Linyanti (lat. 18° 17' 20" S., long. 23° 50' 9" E.) showed that St. Philip de Benguela was much nearer to us than Loanda ; and I might have easily made arrangements with the Mambari to allow me to accompany them as far as Bihe, which is on the road to that port ; but it is so undesirable to travel in a path once trodden by slave-traders, that I preferred to find out another hue of march. Accordingly, men were sent at my suggestion to examine all the country to the west, to see if any belt of country, free from tsetse, could be found to afford us an outlet. The search was fruitless. The town and district of Linyanti are surrounded by forests infested by this poisonous insect, except at a few points, as that by which we entered at Sanshureh and another at Sesheke. But the lands both east and west of the Barotse valley are free from this insect plague. There, however, the slave-trade had defiled the path, and no one ought to follow in its wake unless well armed. The Mambari had informed me that many EngHsh lived at Loanda, so I prepared to go thither. The prospect of meeting with countrymen seemed to overbalance the toils of the longer march. Q 2 228 A " PICHO"— ITS RESULTS. Chap. XIII. A "piclio" was called to deliberate on the steps proposed. In these assemblies great freedom of speech is allowed ; and on this occasion one of the old diviners said, " AATiere is he taking you to ? This white man is throwing you away. Your gar- ments already smell of blood." It is cm-ious to observe how much identity of character appears all over the world. This man was a noted croaker. He always dreamed something di-eadful in every expedition, and was certain that an eclipse or comet betokened the propriety of flight. But Sebituane formerly set his visions down to cowardice, and Sekeletu only laughed at him now. The general voice was in my favour ; so a band of twenty-seven were appointed to accompany me to the west. These men were not hired, but sent to enable me to accomplish an object as much desired by the cliief and most of his people as by me. They w^ere eager to obtain free and profitable trade with wliite men. The prices which the Cape merchants could give, after defraying the great expenses of a long journey hither, being very small, made it scarce worth while for the natives to collect produce for that market; and the Mambari, giving only a few bits of print and baize for elejihants' tusks worth more pounds than they gave yards of cloth, had produced the belief that trade with them was thromng ivory away. The desu-e of the Makololo for du-ect trade with the sea- coast coincided exactly with my own conviction, that no per- manent elevation of a people can be effected without commerce. Neither could there be a permanent mission here, unless the missionaries should descend to the level of the Makololo, for, even at Kolobeng, we found that traders demanded three or four times the price of the articles we needed, and expected us to be grateful to them besides, for letting us have them at aU. The three men whom I had brought from Kuruman had frequent relapses of the fever ; so, finding that instead of serving me I had to wait on them, I decided that they should return to the south vdth. Fleming as soon as he had finished his trading. I was then entirely dependent on my twenty-seven men, whom I might name Zambesians, for there were two Makololo only, while the rest consisted of Barotse, Batoka, Bashubia, and two of the Ambonda. The fever had caused considerable weakness in my own frame, Chap. XIII. THE LOST JOURNAL -REFLECTIONS. 229 and a strange giddiness when I looked up suddenly to any celes- tial object, for everything seemed to rush to the left, and if I did not catch hold of some object I fell heavily on the ground: something resembling a gush of bile along the duct from the liver caused the same fit to occur at night, whenever I turned suddenly round. The ]\Iakololo now put the question, " In the event of your death, will not the white people blame us for having allowed you to go away into an unhealthy, unlmown country of enemies ?" I replied that none of my friends would blame them, because I would leave a book • with Sekeletu, to be sent to Mr. Moffat in case I did not return, which would explain to him all that had happened until the time of my departure. The book was a volume of my Journal ; and, as I was detained longer than I expected at Loanda, this book with a letter was delivered by Sekeletu to a trader, and I have been unable to trace it. I regret this now, as it contained valuable notes on the habits of wild animals, and the request was made in the letter to convey the volume to my family. The prospect of passing away from this fair and beautiful world thus came before me in a pretty plain matter-of-fact form, and it did seem a serious tiling to leave wife and children — to break up all connection with earth, and enter on an untried state of existence ; and I find m3'self in my journal pondering over that fearful migration which lands us in eternity ; wondering whether an angel will soothe the flutter- ing soul, sadly flurried as it must be on entering the sphit world ; and hoping that Jesus might speak but one word of peace, for that would estabhsh in the bosom an everlasting calm. But as I had always believed that, if we serve God at all, it ought to be done in a manly way, I ^Tote to my brother, commending our little girl to his care, as I was determined to " succeed or perish" in the attemj)t to open up this part of Africa. The Boers, by taking possession of all my goods, had saved me the trouble of making a will ; and, considering the light heart now left in my bosom, and some faint efforts to perform the duty of Christian forgiveness, I felt that it was better to be the plundered party than one of the plunderers. When I committed the waggon and remaining goods to the care of the Makololo, they took all the articles except one box 230 OUTFIT FOE JOUKNEY. Chap. XIII. into theii- liiits ; and two warriors, Ponuane and Maliale, brought forward each a fine heifer calf. After performing a number of warlike evolutions, they asked the chief to witness the agreement made between them, that whoever of the two should kill a Matebele warrior first, in defence of the waggon, should possess both the calves. I had three muskets for my people, a rifle and double-bar- relled smooth bore for myself; and, having seen such great abundance of game in my visit to the Leeba, I imagined that I could easily supply the wants of my party. Wishing also to avoid the discouragement which would naturally be felt on meeting any obstacles if my companions were obliged to carry heavy loads, I took only a few biscuits, a few pounds of tea and sugar, and about twenty of coffee, which, as the Arabs find, though used without either milk or sugar, is a most refreshing bever- age after fatigue or exposure to the sun. We carried one small tin canister, about fifteen inches square, filled with spare shirting, trowsers, and shoes, to be used when we reached civilised life, and others in a bag, Avhich were expected to wear out on the way ; another of the same size for medicines ; and a third for books, my stock being a Nautical Almanac, Thomson's Loga- rithm Tables, and a Bible ; a fourth box contained a magic lantern, which w^e found of much use. The sextant and artificial horizon, thermometer and compasses, were carried apart. My ammunition was distributed in portions through the whole lug- gage, so that, if an accident should befall one part, we could still have others to fall back upon. Our chief hopes for food were upon that, but in case of failure I took about 20 lbs. of beads, worth 40s., which still remained of the stock I brought from Cape Town; a small gipsy tent, just sufficient to sleep in; a sheepskin mantle as a blanket, and a horse-rug as a bed. As I had always found that the art of successful travel consisted in taking as few " impedimenta " as possible, and not forgetting to carry my wits about me, the outfit was rather spare, and in- tended to be still more so when we should come to leave the canoes. Some would consider it injudicious to adopt this plan, but I had a secret conviction that if I did not succeed it would not be for lack of the " nicknacks " advertised as indispensable for travellers, but from want of " pluck," or because a large Chap. XIII. THE CHOBE— HIPPOPOTAMI. 231 array of baggage excited the cupidity of the tribes through whose country we wished to pass. The instruments I carried, though few, were the best of their kind. A sextant, by the famed makers Troughton and Sims of Fleet-Street ; a chronometer watch, with a stop to the seconds hand — an admirable contrivance for enabling a person to take the exact time of observations : it was constructed by Dent of the Strand (61) for the Eoyal Geographical Society, and selected for the service by the President, Admiral Smythe, to whose judgment and kindness I am in this and other matters deeply indebted. It was pronounced by Mr. Maclear to equal most chronometers in performance. For these excellent instruments I have much pleasure in recording my obligations to my good friend Colonel Steele, and at the same time to Mr. Maclear for much of my abiUty to use them. Besides these, I had a ther- mometer by DoUond; a compass from the Cape Observatory, and a small pocket one in addition ; a good small telescope with a stand capable of being screwed into a tree. 11th of November, 1853. — Left the to™ of Linyanti, accom- panied by Sekeletu and liis principal men, to embark on the Chobe. The chief came to the river in order to see that all was right at parting. We crossed five branches of the Chobe before reaching the main stream ; this ramification must be the reason why it appeared so small to Mr. OsweU and myself in 1851. AMien all the departiug branches re-enter, it is a large deep river. The spot of embarkation was the identical island where we met Sebituane, first known as the island of Maimku, one of his wives. The chief lent me his own canoe, and, as it was broader than usual, I could turn about in it with ease. The Chobe is much infested by hippopotami, and, as certain elderly males are expelled the herd, they become soured in their temper, and so misanthropic as to attack every canoe that passes near them. The herd is never dangerous, except when a canoe passes into the midst of it when all are asleep, and some of them may strike the canoe in terror. To avoid this, it is generally recommended to travel by day near the bank, and by night in the middle of the stream. As a rule, these animals flee the approach of man. The " soHtaires," however, frequent certain localities well known to the inhabitants on the banks, and, like 232 BANKS OF THE CHOBE— TREES. Chap. XIII. the rogiie elepliants, are extremely dangerous. We came, at this time, to a canoe, which had been smashed to pieces by a blow from the liind foot of one of them. I was informed by my men that, in the event of a similar assault being made upon ours, the proper way was to dive to the bottom of the river, and hold on there for a few seconds, because the hippopotamus, after breaking a canoe, always looks for the people on the surface, and, if he sees none, he soon moves off. I have seen some frightful gashes made on the legs of the people who have had the misfortune to be attacked, and were unable to dive. This animal uses his teeth as an offensive weapon, though he is quite a herbivorous feeder. One of these bachelors," living near the confluence, actually came out of his lair, and, putting his head down, ran after some of our men who were passing with very considerable speed. The part of the river called Zabesa, or Zabenza, is spread out like a little lake, surrounded on all sides by dense masses of tall reeds. The river below that, is always one hundred or one hundred and twenty yards broad, deep, and never dries up so much as to become fordable. At certain parts, where the partial absence of reeds affords a view of the opposite banks, the Makololo have placed villages of observation against their ene- mies the Matebele. We visited all these in succession, and found here, as everywhere in the Makololo country, orders had preceded us, "that Nake (nake means doctor) must not be allowed to become hungry." The banks of the Chobe, like those of the Zouga, are of soft calcareous tufa, and the river has cut out for itself a deep, per- pendicular-sided bed. Where the banks are high, as at the spot where the waggons stood in 1851, they are covered with magni- ficent trees, the habitat of tsetse, and the retreat of various ante- lopes, wild hogs, zebras, buffaloes, and elephants. Among the trees may be observed some species of the Ficm indica, light-green coloured acacias, the splendid motsintsela, and evergreen cypress-shaped motsouri. The fruit of the last- named was ripe, aud the villagers presented many dishes of its beautiful pink-coloured plums ; they are used chiefly to form a pleasant acid drink. The motsintsela is a very lofty tree, yielding a wood of which good canoes are made ; the fruit is Chap. XIII. CONFLUENCE OF CHOBE ANT) LEEAMBYE. 233 nutritious and good, but, like many wild fruits of this country, the fleshy parts require to be enlarged by cultivation : it is nearly all stone. The course of the river we found to be extremely tortuous, — so much so, indeed, as to carry us to all points of the compass every dozen miles. Some of us walked from a bend at the village of Moremi to another nearly due east of that point, in six hours, while the canoes, going at more than double our speed, took twelve to accomplish the voyage between the same two places. And though the river is from thirteen to fifteen feet in depth at its lowest ebb, and broad enough to allow a steamer to ply upon it, the suddenness of the bendings would prevent navigation ; but, should the country ever become civilised, the Chobe would be a convenient natural canal. We spent forty- two and a half hours, paddling at the rate of five miles an hour, in coming from Linyanti to the confluence ; there we found a dyke of amygdaloid lying across the Leeambye. Tliis amygdaloid with analami and mesotype contains crystals, which the water gradually dissolves, leaving the rock with a worm-eaten appearance. It is curious to observe that the water flowing over certain rocks, as in this instance, imbibes an appreciable, though necessarily most minute, portion of the mi- nerals they contain. The water of the Chobe up to tliis point is of a dark mossy hue, but here it suddenly assumes a lighter tint ; and wherever this light colour shows a greater amount of miaeral, there are not mosquitoes enough to cause serious an- noyance to any except persons of very irritable temperaments. The large island called Mparia stands at the confluence. This is composed of trap (zeolite, probably mesotype) of a younger age than the deep stratum of tufa in which the Chobe has formed its bed, for, at the point where they come together, the tufa has been transformed into saccharoid limestone. The actual point of confluence of these two rivers, the Chobe and the Leeambye, is ill defined, on account of each dividing into several branches as they inosculate ; but when the whole body of water collects into one bed, it is a goodly sight for one who has spent many years in the thirsty south. Standing on one bank, even the keen eye of the natives cannot detect whe- ther two large islands, a few miles east of the junction, are 234 DEFIANCE OF AUTHORITY. Chap. XIII. mainland or not. During a flight in former years, when the present chief Sekomi was a child in his mother's arms, the Ba- rn angwato men were separated from their women, and inveigled on to one of these islands by the Makalaka chief of Mparia, on pretence of ferrying them across the Leeambye. They were left to perish after seeing their wives taken prisoners by these cruel lords of the Leeambye, and Sekomi owed his life to the compassion of one of the Bayeiye, who, pit}dng the young chief- tain, enabled his mother to make her escape by night. After spending one night at the Makololo village on Mparia, we left the Chobe, and turning round began to ascend the Leeambye; on the 19th of November we again reached the town of Sesheke. It stands on the north bank of the river, and contains a large population of Makalaka, under Moriantsane, brother-in-law of Sebituane. There are parties of various tribes here, assembled under their respective headmen, but a few Makololo rule over all. Their sway, though essentially des- potic, is considerably modified by certain customs and laws. One of the Makalaka had speared an ox belonging to one of the Makololo, and being unable to extract the spear, ^vas thereby discovered to be the perpetrator of the deed. His object had been to get a share of the meat, as Moriantsane is known to be liberal with any food that comes into his hands. The culprit was bound hand and foot and placed in the sun to force him to pay a fine, but he continued to deny his guilt. His mother, believing in the innocence of her son, now came forward, with her hoe in hand, and, threatening to cut down any one who should dare to interfere, untied the cords with which he had been bound and took him home. This open defiance of autho- rity was not resented by Moriantsane, but referred to Sekeletu at Linyanti. The following circumstance, wliich happened here when I was present with Sekeletu, shows that the simple mode of punish- ment, by forcing a criminal to work out a fine, did not strike the Makololo mind until now. A stranger, having visited Sesheke for the purpose of barter, was robbed by one of the Makalaka of most of his goods. The thief, when caught, confessed the theft, and that he had given the articles to a person who had removed to a distance. The Chap. XIH. rUBLIC ADDEESSES. 235 Makololo were much enraged at the idea of their good name being compromised by this treatment of a stranger. Their cus- tomary mode of pmiishing a crime which causes much indigna- tion is to throw the criminal into the river, but, as this would not restore the lost property, they were sorely puzzled how to act. The case was referred to me, and I solved the difficulty by paj-ing for the loss myself, and sentencing the thief to work out an equivalent with his hoe in a garden. This system was immediately introduced, and thieves are now sentenced to raise an amount of corn proportioned to their offences. Among the Bakv\'ains, a woman who had stolen from the garden of another, was obliged to part vrith her own enthely ; it became the pro- perty of her whose field was hijured by the crime. There is no stated day of rest in any part of this country, except the day after the appearance of the new moon, and the people then refrain only from going to their gardens. A curious custom, not to be foimd among the Bechuanas, prevails among the black tribes beyond them. They watch most eagerly for the first glimpse of the new moon, and, when they perceive the faint outline after the sun has set deep in the west, they utter a loud shout of t'Kua!" and vociferate prayers to it. My men, for instance, called out, " Let our journey with the white man be prosperous ! Let our enemies perish, and the children of Nake become rich ! May he have plenty of meat on this journey !" I gave many public addresses to the people of Sesheke under the outspreading camel-thorn tree, which serves as a shade to the kotla on the high bank of the river. It was pleasant to see the long hues of men, women, and children -s^inding along from different quarters of the town, each party following behind their respective head men. They often amounted to between five and six hundred souls, and required an exertion of voice which brought back the complaint for wliich I had got the uvula excised at the Cape. They were always very attentive; and Moriantsane, in order, as he thought, to please me, on one occa- sion rose up in the middle of the discourse, and hurled his staff at the heads of some young fellows, whom he saw working with a skin instead of Hstening. My hearers sometimes put very sensible questions on the subjects brought before them ; at other 236 PEOGEESS UP THE LEEAMBYE. Chap. XIII. times tliey introduced the most frivolous nonsense, immediately after hearing the most solemn truths. Some begin to pray to Jesus in secret as soon as they hear of the white man's God, with but little idea of what they are about ; and no doubt are heard by Him who, like a father, pitieth his children. Others, waking by night, recollect what has been said about the future world so clearly, that they tell next day what a fright they got by it, and resolve not to listen to the teaching again ; and not a few keep to the determination not to believe, as certain villagers in the south, who put all their cocks to death because they crowed the words, " Tlang lo rapeleng " — " Come along to prayers." On recovering partially from a severe attack of fever which remained upon me ever since our passing the village of Moremi on the Chobe, we made ready for our departure up the river by sending messages before us to the villages to prepare food. We took four elephants' tusks, belonging to Sekeletu, with us, as a means of testing the difference of prices between the Portuguese, whom we expected to reach, and the white traders from the south. Moriantsane supplied us well with honey, milk, and meal. The rains were just commencing in this district; but though showers sufficient to lay the dust had fallen, they had no influence whatever on the amount of water in the river, yet never was there less in any part than three hundred yards of a deep flowing stream. Our progress up the river was rather slow : this was caused by waiting opposite different villages for supplies of food. We might have done with much less than we got ; but my Makololo man, Pitsane, knew of the generous orders of Sekeletu, and was not at all disposed to allow them to remain a dead letter. The villages of the Banyeti contributed large quantities of mosibe, a bright red bean yielded by a large tree. The pulp enclosing the seed is not much thicker than a red wafer, and is the por- tion used. It requires the addition of honey to render it at all palatable. To these were added gTeat numbers of the fruit which yields a variety of the nux vomica, from wliich we derive that virulent poison strychnia. The pulp between the nuts is the part eaten, and it is of a pleasant juicy nature, having a sweet acidulous taste. The fruit itself resembles a large yellow orange, but the Chap. XIII. FEUITS— RAPIDS. 237 rind is hard, and, witli tlie pips and bark, contains niucli of the deadly poison. They evince their noxious qualities by an in- tensely bitter taste. The nuts, swallowed inadvertently, cause considerable pain, but not death ; and to avoid this inconveni- ence, the jDeople dry the pulp before the fii'e, in order to be able the more easily to get rid of the noxious seeds. A much better fruit, called mobola, was also presented to us. This bears, around a pretty large stone, as much of the fleshy part as the common date, and it is stripped off the seeds and preserved in bags in a similar manner to that fruit. Besides sweetness, the mobola has the flavour of strawberries, with a touch of nauseous- ness. We carried some of them, dried as provisions, more than a hundi'ed miles from this spot. The next fruit, named mamosho (mother of morning), is the most deKcious of all. It is about the size of a walnut, and, un- like most of the other uncultivated fruits, has a seed no larger than that of a date. The fleshy part is juicy, and somewhat like the cashew-apple, mth a pleasant acidity added. Fruits similar to those wliich are here found on trees are found on the plains of the Kalahari, growing on mere herbaceous plants. There are several other examples of a similar nature. Slu-ubs, well known as such in the south, assume the rank of trees as we go to the north ; and the change is quite gradual as our latitude decreases, the gradations being herbaceous plants, shrubs, bushes, small, then large, trees. But it is questionable if, in the cases of ma- mosho, mabola, and mawa, the tree and shrub are identical, though the fruits so closely resemble each other ; for I found both the dwarf and tree in the same latitude. There is also a difference in the leaves, and they bear at different seasons. The banks of the river were at this time appearing to greater advantage than before. Many trees were putting on their fresh green leaves, though they had got no rain, their lighter green contrasting beautifully with the dark motsom-i, or moyela, now covered with pink plums as large as cherries. The rapids having comparatively little water in them, rendered our passage difficult. The canoes must never be allowed to come broadside on to the stream, for, being flat-bottomed, they would, in that case, be at once capsized, and everything in them be lost. The men work admirably, and are always in good humour ; they 238 RAPIDS— BIRDS. Chap. XTII. leap into the water witliout the least hesitation, to save the canoe from being caught by eddies or dashed against the rocks. Many parts were now quite shallow, and it required great address and power in balancing themselves to keep the vessel free from rocks, which lay just beneath the surface. We might have got deeper water in the middle, but the boatmen always keep near the banks, on account of danger from the hippo- potami. But though we might have had deeper water farther out, I believe that no part of the rapids is very deep. The river is spread out more than a mile, and the w^ater flows rapidly over the rocky bottom. The portions only tliree hundred yards wide are very deep, and contain large volumes of flowing water in narrow compass, which, when spread over the much larger sur- faces at the rapids, must be shallow. Still, remembering that this was the end of the diy season, when such rivers as the Orange do not even contain a fifth part of the water of the Chobe, the difference between the rivers in the north and south must be sufiiciently obvious. The rapids are caused by rocks of dark-brown trap, or of hardened sandstone, stretching across the stream. In some places they form miles of flat rocky bottom, with islets covered with trees. At the cataracts noted in the map, the fall is from four to six feet, and in guiding up the canoe, the stem goes under the water, and takes in a quantity before it can attain the higher level. We lost many of our biscuits in the ascent through this. These rocks are covered with a small hard aquatic plant, w^hich, when the surface is exposed, becomes dry and crisp, crackling under the foot, as if it contained much stony matter in its tissue. It probably assists in disintegrating the rocks, for, in parts so high as not to be much exposed to the action of the water or the influence of the plant, the rocks are covered vdth. a thin black glaze. In passing along under the overhanging trees of the banks, we often saw the pretty turtle-doves sitting peacefully on their nests above the roaring torrent. An ibis* had perched her home on the end of a stump. Her loud, harsh scream of * The Hagidashj Latham ; or Tantalus capensis of Lich. Chap. XIII. BIRDS— A GOOD OMEX. 239 " Wa-wa-wa," and the piping of the fish-hawk, are sounds which can never be forgotten by any one who has sailed on the rivers north of 20° south. If we step on shore, the Charadrius carun- cula, a species of plover, a most plaguy sort of " public-spirited individual," follows you, flying overhead, and is most perse- vering in its attempts to give fair warning to all the animals within hearing, to flee from the approaching danger. The alarm-note, tinc-tinc-tinc," of another variety of the same family (Pluvianus armatus of Burchell) has so much of a me- tallic ring, that this bird is called " setula-tsipi," or hammering- iron. It is furnished .with a sharp spur on its shoulder, much like that on the heel of a cock, but scarcely half an inch in length. Conscious of power, it may be seen chasing the white- necked raven with great fury, and making even that compara- tively large bird call out from feai\ It is this -bird which is famed for its friendship with the crocodile of the Nile by the name siksak, and which Mr. St. John actually saw performuig the part of toothpicker to the ugly reptile. They are frequently seen on the same sandbanks with the alligator, and, to one passing by, often appear as if on that reptile's back ; but I never had the good fortune to witness the operation described not only by St. John and Geoffrey St. Hilaire, but also by Herodotus. However, that which none of these authors knew, my head boatman, Mashauana, stopped the canoe to tell us, namely, that a water-turtle which, in trying to ascend a steep bank to lay her eggs, had toppled on her back, thus enabling us to capture her, was an infallible omen of good luck for our journey. Among the forest trees wliich line the banks of the rocliy parts of the Leeambye, several new birds were observed. Some axe musical, and the songs are pleasant ia contrast with the harsh voice of the little green, yellow-shouldered parrots of the country. There are also great numbers of jet-black weavers, with yellowish-brown band on the shoulders. Here we saw, for the first time, a pretty little bird, coloured dark blue, except the wings and tail, which were of a cho- colate hue. From the tail two feathers are prolonged beyond the rest six inches. Also, little birds coloured white and black, of great vivacity, and always in companies of six or eight 240 THE DARTEK— THE FISH-HAWK. Chap. XIH. togetlier, and various others. From want of books of reference, I could not decide whether they were actually new to science. Francolins and guinea-fowl abound along the banks ; and on every dead tree and piece of rock may be seen one or two species of the web-footed Plotus, darter, or snake-bird. They sit most of the day sunning themselves over the stream, sometimes standing erect with their wings outstretched ; occasionally they may be seen engaged in fishing by diving, and, as they swim about, their bodies are so much submerged, that hardly anytliing appears above the water but their necks. Their chief time of feeding is by night, and, as the sun declines, they may be seen in flocks flying from their roosting-places to the fishing-grounds. This is a most difficult bird to catch when disabled. It is thoroughly expert in diving, — goes down so adroitly and comes up again in the most unlikely places, that the people, though most skilful in the management of the canoes, can rarely secure them. The rump of the darter is remarkably prolonged, and capable of being bent, so as to act both as a rudder in swimming, and as a lever to lift the bird high enough out of the water to give free scope to its wings. It can rise at will from the water by means of this appendage. The fine fish-hawk, with white head and neck, and reddish- chocolate coloured body, may also frequently be seen perched on the trees, and fish are often found dead, which have fallen victims to its talons. One most frequently seen in this con- dition is itself a destroyer of fish. It is a stout-bodied fish, about fifteen or eighteen inches long, of a light-yellow colour, and gaily ornamented with stripes and spots. It has a most imposing array of sharp, conical teeth outside the lips — objects of dread to the fishermen, for it can use them effectually. One, which we picked up dead, had killed itself by swallowing another fish, which, though too large for its stomach and throat, could not be disgorged. This fish-hawk generally kills more prey than it can devour. It eats a portion of the back of the fish, and leaves the rest for the Barotse, who often had a race across the river when they saw an abandoned morsel lying on the opposite sandbanks. The hawk is, however, not always so generous, for, as I myself was a witness on the Zouga, it sometimes plunders the purse of the Chap. XIII. FISH— IGUAXOS— HIPPOPOTAMI. 241 pelican. Soaring over head, and seeing this large, stupid bhd fisliing beneath, it watches till a fine fish is safe in the pelican's pouch ; then descending, not very quickly, but with considerable noise of wing, the pelican looks up to see what is the matter, and, as the hawk comes near, he supposes that he is about to be killed, and roars out " 3Iurder ! " The opening of his mouth enables the hawk to wliisk the fish out of the j^ouch, upon which the pelican does not fly away, but commences fishing again ; the fright having probably made him forget he ever had anything in his purse. A fish called moslleba, about the size of a minnow, often sldms along the surface for several yards, in order to get out of the way of the canoe. It uses the pectoral fins, as the flying- fish do, but never makes a clean flight. It is rather a succession of hops along the smface, made by the aid of the side fins. It never becomes large. Numbers of iguanos (mpulu) sit sunning themselves on over- hanging branches of the trees, and splash into the water as we approach. They are highly esteemed as an article of food, the flesh being tender and gelatinous. The chief boatman, who occupies the stem, has in consequence a light javelin always at hand, to spear them if they are not quicldy out of sight. These, and large alligators gliding in from the banks with a heavy plunge as we come round a sudden bend of the stream, were the occurrences of every hour as we sped up the river. The rapids in the part of the river between Katima-molelo and Namdta are relieved by several reaches of still deep water, fifteen or twenty miles long. In these, very large herds of hippo- potami are seen, and the deep fm-rows they make, in ascending the banks to gi-aze during the nights, are everywhere apparent. They are guided back to the water by the scent, but a long- continued pouring rain makes it impossible for them to perceive, by that means, in which direction the river lies, and they are found standing bewildered on the land. The hunters take ad- vantage of then- helplessness on these occasions to kill them. It is impossible to judge of the numbers in a herd, for they are almost always hidden beneath the waters; but as they require to come up every few minutes to breathe, when there is a constant succession of heads thrust up, then the herd is sap- 242 HIPPOPOTAMI. Chap. XIII. posed to be large. They love a still reacli of tlie stream, as in tlie more rapid parts of the channel they are floated down so quickly, that much exertion is necessary to regain the distance lost, by frequently swimming up again — such constant exertion disturbs them in their nap. They prefer to remain by day in a drowsy yawning state, and, though their eyes are open, they take little notice of things at a distance. The males utter a loud succession of snoi-ting grunts, which may be heard a mile off. The canoe in which I was, in passing over a wounded one, elicited a distinct grunting, though the animal lay entirely under water. The young, when very little, take then' stand on the neck of the dam, and the small head, rising above the large, comes soonest to the surface. The dam, knowing the more urgent need of her calf, comes more frequently to the surface when it is in her care. But in the rivers of Londa, where they are much in danger of being shot, even the hippopotamus gains wit by experience ; for while those in the Zambesi put up their heads openly to blow, those referred to keep then' noses among water-plants and breathe so quietly that one would not dream of their existence in the river, except by footprints on the banks. Chap. XIV. MODE OF SPENDING THE DAY, 243 CHAPTER XIV. Increasing beauty of tlie country — Mode of spending the day — The people and the falls of Gonye — A Makololo foray — A second prevented, and captives delivered up — Politeness and liherality of the people — The rains — Present of oxen — The fugitive Barotse — Sekobinyane's mis- government — Bee-eaters and other birds — Fresh- water sponges — Cur- rent — Death from .a lion's bite at Libonta — Continued kindness — Arrangements for spending the night during the journey — Cooking and washing — Abundance of animal life — Different species of birds ■ — Water- fowl — Egyptian geese — Alligators — Narrow escape of one of my men — Superstitious feelings respecting the alligator — Large game — The most vulnerable spot — Gun medicine — A Sunday — Birds of song — Depravity; its treatment — Wild fruits — Green i)igeons-— Shoals of fisli — Hippopotami. 30th November, 1853. — At Gonye Falls. No rain has fallen here, so it is excessively hot. The trees have pnt on their gayest dress, and many flowers adorn the landscape, yet the heat makes all the leaves droop at mid-day and look languid for want of rain. If the country increases as much in beauty in front, as it has done within the last four degrees of latitude, it will be indeed a lovely land. We all felt great lassitude in travelling. The atmosphere is oppressive both in cloud and sunshine. The evaporation from the river must be excessively great, and I feel as if the fluids of the system joined in the general motion of watery vapour upwards, as enormous quantities of water must be drunk to supply its place. Wlien under weigh our usual procedure is this : — We get up a little before five in the morning ; it is then beginning to dawn. While I am dressing, coffee is made ; and, having filled my pannikin, the remainder is handed to my companions, who eagerly partake of the refreshing beverage. The servants are busy loading the canoes, while the principal men are sipping the coffee, and, that being soon over, we embark. The next two hours are the most pleasant part of the day's sail. The men paddle away most vigorously ; the Barotse, being a tribe of boat- R 2 244 FALLS OF GONYE. Chap. XIY. men, have large, deeply-developed chests and shoulders, with indifferent lower extremities. They often engage in loud scold- ing of each other, in order to relieve the tedium of theu- work. About eleven we land, and eat any meat which may have re- mained from the previous evening meal, or a biscuit with honey, and drink water. After an hour's rest we again embark and cower under an umbrella. The heat is oppressive, and, being weak from the last attack of fever, I cannot land, and keep the camp supphed with flesh. The men, being quite uncovered in the sun, perspire profusely, and in the afternoon begin to stop, as if waiting for the canoes which have been left behind. Sometimes we reach a sleeping-place two hours before sunset, and, all being troubled with languor, we gladly remain for the night. Coffee again, and a biscuit, or a piece of coarse bread made of maize meal, or that of the native corn, make up the bill of fare for the evening, unless we have been fortunate enough to kill something, when we boil a potful of flesh. This is done by cutting it up into long strips and pouring in water till it is covered. When that is boiled dry, the meat is considered ready. The people at Gonye carry the canoes over the space requisite to avoid the falls, by slinging them on poles tied on diagonally. They place these on their shoulders, and, setting about the work with good liumour, soon accomplish the task. They are a merry set of mortals, — a feeble joke sets them off in a fit of laughter. Here, as elsewhere, all petitioned for the magic lantern, and, as it is a good means of conveying instruction, I willingly complied. The falls of Gonye have not been made by wearing back, like those of Niagara, but are of a fissure form. For many miles below, the river is confined in a narrow space of not more than one hundred yards wide. The water goes boiling along, and gives the idea of great masses of it rolling over and over, so that even the most expert swimmer would find it diffi- cult to keep on the surface. Here it is that the river when in flood rises fifty or sixty feet in perpendicular height. The islands above the falls are covered with foliage as beautiful as can be seen anywhere. Vie\ved from the mass of rock which overhangs the fall, the scenery was the loveliest I had seen. Nothing worthy of note occurred on our way up to Nameta. Chap. XIV. MAI^OLOLO FORAY. 245 There we heard that a party of the Makololo, headed by Lerimo, had made a foray to the north and up the Leeba, in the very direction in which we were about to proceed. Mpololo, the uncle of Sekeletu, is considered the headman of the Barotse valley ; and the perpetrators had his full sanction, because Masiko, a son of Santuru, the former chief of the Barotse, had fled high up the Leeambye, and, establishing himself there, had sent men down to the vicinity of ISTaliele to draw away the remaining Barotse from their allegiance. Lerimo's party had taken some of this Masiko's subjects prisoners, and destroyed several villages of the Balonda, to whom we were going. This was in direct opposition to the policy of Sekeletu, who wished to be at peace with these northern tribes ; and Pitsane, my head man, was the bearer of orders to Mpololo to furnish us with presents for the very cliiefs they had attacked. Thus, we were to get large pots of clarified butter and bunches of beads, in confirmation of the message of peace we were to deliver. When we reached Litofe, we heard that a fresh foray was in contemplation, but I sent forward orders to disband the party immediately. At Ma-Sekeletu's town we found the head offender, Mpololo himself, and I gave him a bit of my mind, to the effect that, as I was going with the full sanction of Sekeletu, if any harm happened to me in consequence of his ill-advised expedi- tion, the guilt would rest with him. Ma-Sekeletu, who was pre- sent, heartily approved all I said, and suggested that all the captives taken by Lerimo should be returned by my hand, to show Masiko that the guilt of the foray lay not with the superior persons of the Makololo, but with a mere servant. Her good sense appeared in other respects besides, and, as this was ex- actly what my own party had previously resolved to suggest, we were pleased to hear Mpololo agree to do what he was advised. He asked me to lay the matter before the under- chiefs of Naliele, and when we reached that place, on the 9th of December, I did so in a picho, called exj)ressly for the purpose. Lerimo was present, and felt rather crestfallen when his exploit was described by Mohorisi, one of my companions, as one of extreme cowardice, he having made an attack upon the defenceless villagers of Londa, while, as we had found on our former visit, a lion had actually killed eight people of Nahele, 246 LIBEEALITY OF THE PEOPLE. Chap. XIV. without his daring to encounter it. The Makololo are cowardly in respect to animals, but brave against men. Mpololo took all the guilt upon himself before the people, and delivered up a captive child whom his wife had in her possession ; others fol- lowed his example till we procured the release of five of the prisoners. Some thought, as Masiko had tried to take their cliildren by stratagem, they ought to take his by force, as the two modes suited the genius of each people — the Makalaka delight in cunning, and the Makololo in fighting ; and others thought, if Sekeletu meant them to be at peace with Masiko, he ought to have told them so. It is rather dangerous to tread in the footsteps of a marauding party with men of the same tribe as the aggTessors, but my people were in good S23irits, and several volunteers even offered to join our ranks. We, however, adhered strictly to the orders of Sekeletu as to our companions, and refused all others. The people of every village treated us most liberally, present- ing, besides oxen, butter, milk, and meal, more than we could stow away in om' canoes. The cows in this valley are now yield- ing, as they frequently do, more milk than the people can use, and both men and women present butter in such quantity, that I shall be able to refresh my men as we move along. Anointing the skin prevents the excessive evaporation of the fluids of the body, and acts as clothing in both sun and shade. They always made then- presents gracefully. When an ox was given, the owner would say, Here is a little bit of bread for you." This was pleasing, for I had been accustomed to the Bechuanas pre- senting a miserable goat, with the pompous exclamation, *' Be- hold an ox ! " The women persisted in giving me copious sup- plies of slu'iU praises, or " lullilooing ; " but though I frequently told them to modify their " great lords " and " gi-eat lions " to more humble expressions, they so evidently intended to do me honour, that I could not help being pleased with the poor creatures' wishes for our success. The rains began while we were at Naliele ; this is much later than usual, but, though the Barotse valley has been in need of rain, the people never lack abundance of food. The showers are refreshing, but the air feels hot and close ; the thermometer however, in a cool hut, stands only at 84°. The access of the Chap. XIV. SEKOBIXYAXE^S MISGOYEEKMEXT, 247 external aii- to any spot at once raises its temperatm-e above 90°. A new attack of fever here caused excessive languor ; but, as I am already getting tired of quoting my fevers, and never Hked to read travels myself, where much was said about the illnesses of the traveller, I shall henceforth endeavoiu' to say little about them. We here sent back the canoe of Sekeletu, and got the loan of others from Mpololo. Eight riding oxen, and seven for slaughter, were, according to the orders of that chief, also furnished ; some were intended for our own use, and others as presents to the chiefs of the Balonda: Mpololo was particularly liberal in giving all that Sekeletu ordered, though, as he feeds on the cattle he has in charge, he might have felt it so much abstracted from his own perquisites. Mpololo now acts the great man, and is fol- lowed everywhere by a crowd of toadies, who sing songs in dis^* paragement of Mpepe, of whom he always lived in fear, ^^'^lile IMpepe was alive, he too was regaled with the same fulsome adulation, and now they curse liim. They are very ford-tongued ; equals, on meeting, often gi-eet each other with a profusion of oaths, and end the voUey -^vith a laugh. In coming up the river to" Xaliele we met a party of fugitive Barotse retm-ning to their homes, and, as the cii'cumstance illus- trates the social status of these subjects of the Makololo, I intro- duce it here. The villagers in question were the children, or serfs, if we may use the term, of a young man of the same age and tribe as Sekeletu, who, being of an irritable temper, went by the nickname of Sekobinyane — a little slavish thing. His treatment of his servants was so bad, that most of them had fled ; and when the Mambari came, and, contrary to the orders of Sekeletu, purchased slaves, Sekobinyane sold one or two of the Barotse chikfren of his village. The rest fled immediately to Masilvo, and were gladly received by that Barotse chief as his subjects, A\Tien Sekeletu and I first ascended the Leeambye we met Sekobinyane coming down, on his way to Linyanti. On being asked the news, he remained silent about the loss of his village, it being considered a crime among the Makololo for any one to treat his people so ill, as to cause them to run away from him. He then passed us, and, dreading the vengeance of Sekeletu for 248 FUGITIVES— THE BEE EATEE. Chap. XIV. liis crime, secretly made his escape from Linyanti to Lake Ngami. He was sent for, however, and the chief at the lake delivered liim up, on Sekeletu declaring that he had no intention of punishing him otherwise than by scolding. He did not even do that, as Sekobinyane was evidently terrified enough, and also became ill through fear. The fugitive villagers remained only a few weeks with their new master Masiko, and then fled back again, and were received as if they had done nothing wrong. All united in abusing the conduct of Sekobinyane, and no one condemned the fugitives ; and the cattle, the use of which they had previously enjoyed, never having been removed from their village, they re-esta- blished themselves mth apparent gladness. This mcident may give some idea of the serfdom of the subject tribes, and, except that they are sometimes punished for running away and other offences, I can add nothing more by way of showing the true nature of this form of servitude. Leaving NaHele, amidst abundance of good wishes for the success of our expedition and hopes that we might return accom- panied with white traders, we began again our ascent of the river. It was now beginning to rise, though the rains had but just com- menced in the valley. The banks are low, but cleanly cut, and seldom sloping. At low water they are from four to eight feet high, and make the river always assume very much the aspect of a canal. They are in some parts of whitish tenacious clay •with strata of black clay intermixed, and black loam in sand, or pure sand stratified. As the river rises it is always wearing to one side or the other, and is kno^m to have cut across from one bend to another, and to form new channels. As we coast along the shore, pieces which are undermined often fall in with a splash like that caused by the plunge of an alligator, and endanger the canoe. These perpendicular banks afford building-places to a pretty bee-eater,* which loves to breed in society. The face of the sandbank is perforated with hundreds of holes leading to their nests, each of which is about a foot apart from the other ; and as we pass they pour out of their hiding-places, and float overhead. * -Merojjs ajnaster and M. hullochoides (Smith). Chap. XIV. BIRDS— SPONGES. 249 A speckled kingfisher is seen nearly every hundred yards, which builds in similar spots, and attracts the attention of herd- boys, who dig out its nest for the sake of the young. This, and a most lovely little blue-and-orange kingfisher, are seen everywhere along the banks, dashing down like a shot into the water for their prey. A third, seen more rarely, is as large as a pigeon, and is of a slaty colour. Another inhabitant of the banks is the sand-martin, which also likes company in the work of raising a family. They never leave this part of the country. One may see them preening themselves .in the very depth of winter, while the swallows, of which we shall yet speak, take winter trips. I saw sand-martins at the Orange river during a period of winter frost ; it is, therefore, probable that they do not migrate even from thence. Around the reeds, wliich in some parts line the banks, we see fresh-water sponges. They usually encircle the stalk, and are hard and brittle, presenting numbers of small round grains near their circumference. • The river was running at the rate of five miles an hour, and carried bunches of reed and decaying vegetable matter on its surface ; yet the water was not discoloured. It had, however, a slightly yellowish-green tinge, somewhat deeper than its natural colour. This arose from the quantity of sand carried by the rising flood from sandbanks, which are annually shifted from one spot to another, and from the pieces falling in as the banks are worn ; for when the water is allowed to stand in a glass, a few seconds suffice for its deposit at the bottom. This is considered an unhealthy period. Wlien waiting, on one occasion, for the other canoes to come up, I felt no inclination to leave the one I was in ; but my head boatman, Mashauana, told me never to remain on board while so much vegetable matter was floating down the stream. 11th December. — At Libonta. We were detained for days together collecting contributions of fat and butter, according to the orders of Sekeletu, as presents to the Balonda chiefs. Much fever prevailed, and ophthalmia was rife, as is generally the case before the rains begin. Some of my own men required my assistance, as well as the people of Libonta. A lion had 250 LIBONTA. Chap. XIV. done a good deal of miscliief liere, and wlien tlie people went to attack it two men were badly wounded ; one of them liad his thigh-bone quite broken, showing the prodigious power of this animal's jaws. The inflammation produced by the teeth-wounds proved fatal to one of them. Here we demanded the remainder of the captiyes, and got our number increased to nineteen. They consisted of women and children, and one young man of twenty. One of the boys was smuggled away in the crowd as we embarked. The Mako- lolo under-chiefs often act in direct opposition to the will of the head chief, trusting to circumstances and brazenfacedness to screen themselves from his open displeasure; and as he does not always find it convenient to notice faults, they often go to considerable lengths in wrongdomg. Libonta is the last town of the Makololo, so, when we parted from it, we had only a few cattle-stations and outlying hamlets in front, and then an uninhabited border country till we came to Londa, or Lunda. Libonta is situated on a mound like the rest of the "villages in the Barotse valley, but here the tree- covered sides of the valley begin to approach nearer the river. The ^-iUage itself belongs to two of the chief wives of Sebituane, who furnished us with an ox and abundance of other food. The same kindness was manifested by all who could afford to give anything; and as I glance over their deeds of generosity re- corded in my journal, my heart glows with gratitude to them, and I hope and pray that God may spare me to make them some return. Before leaving the villages entirely, we may glance at our way of spending the nights. As soon as we land, some of the men cut a little grass for my bed, wliile Mashauana plants the poles of the little tent. These are used by day for carrying burdens, for the Barotse fashion is exactly like that of the natives of India, only the burden is fastened near the ends of the pole, and not suspended by long cords. The bed is made, and boxes ranged on each side of it, and then the tent pitched over all. Four or five feet in fi'ont of my tent is placed the principal or kotla fire, the wood for which must be collected by the man who occupies the post of herald, and takes as his perquisite the heads of all the oxen slaughtered, and of all the game too. Each person knows Chap. XIV. MODE OF PASSING THE NIGHT. 251 the station he is to occupy, in reference to the post of honoui' at the fii-e in front of the door of the tent. The two Makololo occupy my right and left, both in eating and sleeping, as long as the journey lasts. But Mashauana, my head boatman, makes liis bed at the door of the tent as soon as I rethe. The rest, divided into small companies according to their tribes, make sheds all round the fire, leaving a horseshoe-shaped space in front sufficient for the cattle to stand in. The fire gives confidence to the oxen, so the men are always careful to keep them in sight of it. The sheds are formed by planting two stout forked poles in an inclined direction, and placing another over these in a horizontal position. A number of branches are then stuck in the ground in the direction to wliich the poles are inclined, the twigs drawn down to the horizontal pole and tied with strips of bark. Long grass is then laid over the branches in sufficient quantity to draw off the rain, and we have sheds open to the fire in front, but secm-e from beasts behind. In less than an horn' we were usually all under cover. We never lacked abundance of grass dm-ing the whole journey. It is a picturesque sight at night, w^hen the clear bright moon of these climates glances on the sleeping forms around, to look out upon the attitudes of profound repose both men and beasts assume. There being no danger from wild animals in such a night, the fires are allowed almost to go out ; and as there is no fear of hungry dogs coming over sleepers and devouring the food, of quietly eating up the poor fellows' blankets, which at best were but greasy skins, which sometimes happened in the villages, the picture was one of perfect peace. The cooldng is usually done in the natives' own style, and, as they carefully wash the dishes, pots, and the hands before handling food, it is by no means despicable. Sometimes altera- tions are made at my suggestion, and then they believe that they can cook in thorough white man's fashion. The cook always comes in for sometliing left in the pot, so aU are eager to obtain the office. I taught several of them to wash my shirts, and they did it well, though their teacher had never been taught that work himselfl Frequent changes of linen and sunning of my blanket kept me more comfortable than might have been anticipated, 252 ABUNDANCE OF ANIMAL LIFE. Chap. XIV. and I feel certain that the lessons of cleanKness rigidly instilled by my mother in cliildliood, helped to maintain that respect ■which these people entertain for European ways. It is ques- tionable if a descent to barbarous ways ever elevates a man in the eyes of savages. When quite beyond the uiliabited parts, we found the comitry abounding in animal Kfe of every form. There are upwards of thirty s]3ecies of buds on the river itself. Hundreds of the Ibis religiosa come do™ the Leeambye with the rising water, as they do on the Nile ; then large white pelicans, in flocks of three hundred at a time, following each other in long extending Hne, rising and falling as they fly, so regularly all along, as to look like an extended coil of birds; clouds of a black shell- eating bnd, called linongolo {Anastomus lamelligerus) ; also plovers, snipes, cmdews, and herons, "without number. There are, besides the more common, some strange varieties. The pretty white ardetta is seen in flocks, settKng on the backs of large herds of buffaloes, and following them on the wing when they run; while the kala [Textor erythrorJiynchus) is a better horseman, for it sits on the withers when the animal is at full speed. Then those strange birds the scissor-bills, with snow-white breast, jet-black coat, and red beak, sitting by day on the sand- banks, the very picture of comfort and repose. Their nests are only little hollows made on these same sandbanks, without any attempt at concealment ; they watch them closely, and frighten away the marabou and crows from their eggs by feigned attacks at their heads. Wlien man approaches their nests, they change their tactics, and, like the lapmng and ostrich, let one wing drop and make one leg limp, as if lame. The upper mandible being so much shorter than the lower, the young are more help- less than the stork in the fable with the flat dishes, and must have everything conveyed into the mouth by the parents, till they are able to provide for themselves. The lower mandible, as tliin as a paper-knife, is put into the water wliile the bird skims along the surface, and scoops up any little insects it meets. It has great length of wing, and can continue its flight with perfect ease, the wings acting, though kept above the level of the body. The wonder is, how this ploughing of the Chap. XIV. WATER-FOWL. 253 surface of the water can be so well performed as to yield a meal, for it is usually done in the dark. Like most aquatic feeders, they work by night, when insects and fishes rise to the surface. They have great affection for their young, its amount being increased in proportion to the helplessness of the offspring. There are also numbers of spoonbills, nearly white in plumage ; the beautiful, stately flamingo ; the Numidian crane, or demoiselle, some of which, tamed at Government House, Cape Town, struck every one as most graceful ornaments to a noble mansion as they perched on its pillars.' There are two cranes besides — one light blue, the other also light blue, but with a wliite neck ; and gulls (Proeellaria) of different sizes abound. One pretty little wader, an avoset, appears as if standing on stilts, its legs are so long ; and its bill seems bent the wong way, or upwards. It is constantly seen wading in the shallows, digging up little slippery insects, the peculiar form of the bill enabhng it to work them easily out of the sand. When feeding, it puts its head under the water to seize the insect at the bottom, then Kfts it up quickly, making a rapid gobbling, as if swallowing a WTiggling worm. The Parr a African a runs about on the surface as if walldng on water, catching insects. It too has long, thin legs, and extremely long toes, for the purpose of enabhng it to stand on the floating lotus-leaves and other aquatic plants. When it stands on a lotus-leaf five inches in diameter, the spread of toes, acting on the principle of snow-shoes, occupies aU the siuface, and it never sinks, though it obtains a livehhood, not by swim- ming or flying, but by wallving on the water. Water-birds, whose prey or food requires a certain aim or action in one duection, have bills quite straight in form, as the heron and snipe; while those which are intended to come in contact with hard substances, as breaking shells, have the bills gently curved, in order that the shock may not be communicated to the brain. The Barotse valley contains great numbers of large black geese.* They may be seen everywhere walking slowly about * Anser teucagaster and melanogastcr. 254 WATER-FOWL-^ALLIGATORS. Chap. XIV, feeding. Tliey have a strong black spur on the shoulder like the armed plover, and as strong as that on the heel of a cock, but are never seen to use them, except in defence of their young. They choose anthills for then' nests ; and, in the time of laying, the Barotse consume vast quantities of their eggs. Tliere are also two varieties of geese, of somewhat smaller size, but better eating. One of these, the Egyptian goose or Vulpanser, cannot rise from the water, and dm'ing the floods of the river great numbers are killed by being pm^sued in canoes. The tlurd is furnished with a peculiar knob on the beak. These, with myriads of ducks of three varieties, abound everywhere on the Leeambye. On one occasion the canoe neared a banl^ on which a large flock was sitting. Two shots furnished om' whole party with a supper, for we picked up seventeen ducks and a goose. No wonder the Barotse always look back to tliis fruitful valley as the Israelites did to the flesh-pots of Egypt. The poorest persons are so well supplied with food from then' gardens, fruits from the forest trees, and fish from the river, that their children, when taken into the service of the Makololo, where they have only one large meal a-day, become quite emaciated and pine for a return to their parents. Part of our company marched along the banks with the oxen, and part went in the canoes, but our pace was regulated by the speed of the men on shore. Their course was rather difficult, on account of the numbers of departing and re-entering branches of the Leeambye, wliich they had to avoid, or wait at till we ferried them over. The number of alligators is prodigious, and in this river they are more savage than in some others. Many children are carried off annually at Sesheke and other towns ; for, notwithstanding the danger, when they go down for water they almost always must play awliile. This reptile is said by the natives to strike the victim with its tail, then drag liim in and drown him. When lying in the water watching for prey, the body never appears. Many calves are lost also, and it is seldom that a number of cows can swim over at Sesheke without some loss. I never could avoid shuddering on seeing my men swimming across these branches, after one of them had been caught by the thigh and taken below. He, however, retained, as nearly all of them in the most trjdng circumstances do, his full Chap. XIY. ALLiaATORS-SUPEKSTITION, 255 presence of. mind, and, having a small, square, ragged-edged javelin with him, when dragged to the bottom gave the alligator a stab behind the shoulder. The alligator, wTithing in pain, left him, and he came out with the deep marks of the reptile's teeth on his thigh. Here the people have no antipathy to persons who have met with such an adventm-e, but, in the Bamangwato and Bakwain tribes, if a man is either bitten or even has had water splashed over liim by the reptile's tail, he is expelled liis tribe. Wlien on the Zouga we saw one of the Bamangivato living among the Bayeiye, who had the misfortune to have been bitten and driven out of liis tribe in consequence. Fearing that I would regard him with the same disgust which his countrymen profess to feel, he would not tell me the cause of his exile, but the Bayeiye informed me of it, and the scars of the teeth were visible on liis thigh. If the Bakwains happened to go near an alligator they would spit on the gTound, and indicate its presence by saying, " Boleo ki bo " — " There is sin." They imagine the mere sight of it would give inflammation of the eyes ; and, though they eat the zebra without hesitation, yet if one bites a man he is ex- pelled the tribe, and obliged to take his wife and family away to the Kalahari. These cmious relics of the animal-worsliip of former times scarcely exist among the Makololo. Sebituane acted on the principle, " Wliatever is food for men is food for me :" so no man is here considered unclean. The Barotse appear inclined to pray to alligators and eat them too, for when I wounded a water-antelope, called mochose, it took to the water ; when near the other side of the river an alligator appeared at its tail, and then both sank together. Mashauana, who was nearer to it than I, told me that, " though he had called to it to let liis meat alone, it refused to listen." One day we passed some Barotse lads who had speared an alligator, and were waiting in expecta- tion of its floating soon after. The meat has a strong musky odour, not at all inviting for any one except the very hungTy. Wlien we had gone tliirty or forty miles above Libonta we sent eleven of our captives to the west to the chief called Makoma with an explanatory message. This caused some delay ; but as we were loaded with presents of food from the Makololo, and the wild animals were in enormous herds, we fared sumptu- ously. It was grievous, however, to shoot the lovely creatures, 256 GAME-~COMPAEATiyE TENACITY OF LIFE. Chap. XIV. tliey were so tame. With but little skill in stalking, one could easily get within fifty or sixty yards of them. There I lay, look- ing at the graceftd forms and motions of beautiful pokus,* leches, and other antelopes, often till my men, wondering what was the matter, came up to see, and frightened them away. If we had been starving, I could have slaughtered them with as little hesitation as I should cut off a patient's leg ; but I felt a doubt, and the antelopes got the benefit of it. Have they a guardian spirit over them? I have repeatedly observed, when I ap- proached a herd lying beyond an anthiU with a tree on it, and "vdewed them with the greatest caution, they very soon showed symptoms of uneasiness. They did not snuff danger in the wind, for I was to leeward of them, but the almost invariable apprehension of danger which arose, while unconscious of the direction in Avliich it lay, made me wonder whether each had what the ancient physicians thought we all possessed, an archon, or presiding spirit. ' If we could ascertain the most fatal spot in an animal, we could despatch it with the least possible amount of suffering ; but as that is j)robably the part to Avhich the greatest amount of nervous influence is directed at the moment of receiving the shot, if we cannot be sure of the heart or brain, we are never certam of speedy death. Antelopes, formed for a partially amphibious existence, and other animals of that class, are much more tenacious of life than those wliich are purely terrestrial. Most antelopes, when in distress or pursued, make for the water. If hunted they always do. A leche shot right through the body, and no limb-bone broken, is almost sme to get away, while a zebra, with a wound of no gTcater severity, will probably drop down dead. I have seen a rliinoceros, wliile standuig apparently chewing the cud, drop down dead from a shot in the stomach, while others shot through one lung and the stomach go off as if Httle hurt. But if one should crawl up silently to within tw^enty yards of either the w^hite or black rhinoceros, throwing up a pinch of dust every now and then, to find out that the anxiety to keep the body concealed by the bushes, has not led him to * I propose to name this new species Antilo^e Vardonn, after the African traveller, Major Yardon. Chap. XIV. 'GUN MEDICINE. 257 the windward side, then sit down, rest the elbows on the knees, and aim, slanting a little upwards, at a dark spot behind the shoulders, it falls stone dead. To show that a shock on the part of the system to which much nervous force is at the time directed, will destroy life, it may be mentioned that an eland, when hunted, can be despatched by a wound, which does little more than injure the muscular system; its whole nervous force is then imbuing the organs of motion : and a giraffe, when pressed hard by a good horse only two or tln-ee hundred yards, has been known to drop down dead, without any wound being inflicted at all. A full gallop by an eland or giraffe quite dissipates its power, and the hunters, aware of tliis, always try to press them at once to it, knowing that they have but a short space to run before the animals are in their power. In doing this, the old sportsmen are careful not to go too close to the giraffe's tail, for this animal can swing his hind foot round in a way wliich would leave little to choose, between a kick with it, and a clap from the arm of a windmill. When the nervous force is entire, terrible wounds may be inflicted without killing ; a tsessebe having been shot thi'ough the neck while quietly feeding, we went to him, and one of the men cut his tlu-oat deep enough to bleed him largely. He started up after this and ran more than a mile, and would have got clear off, had not a dog brought him to bay under a tree, where we found him standing. My men, having never had fire-arms in their hands before, found it so difficult to hold the musket steady at the flash of fire in the pan, that they naturally expected me to furnish them vdth. " gun medicine," without which, it is almost universally believed, no one can shoot straight. Great expectations had been formed when I arrived among the Makololo on this subject ; but having invariably declined to deceive them, as some for their own profit have done, my men now supposed that I would at last consent, and thereby reHeve myself from the hard work of hunting by employing them after due medication. This I was most wilKng to do, if I could have done it honestly ; for, having but little of the hunting furore in my composition, I s 258 DIFFICULTY IN USING THE GUN. Chap. XIV. always preferred eating the game to killing it. Sulphur is the remedy most admired, and I remember Sechele giving a large •price for a very small bit. He also gave some elephants' tusks, worth SOlf for another medicine which was to make him invul- nerable to musket-balls. As I uniformly recommended that these things should be tested by experiment, a caK was anointed with the charm and tied to a tree. It proved decisive, and Sechele remarked it was " pleasanter to be deceived than un- deceived." I offered sulphur for the same purpose, but that was declined, even though a person came to the to^vn afterwards and rubbed liis hands with a little before a successful trial of shooting at a mark. I explained to my men the natm-e of the gun, and tried to teach them, but they would soon have expended all the ammu- nition in my possession. I was thus obliged to do all the shooting myself ever afterwards. Their inability was rather a misfortune ; for, in consequence of worldng too soon after having been bitten by the lion, the bone of my left arm had not united well. Continual hard manual labour, and some falls from ox- back, lengthened the ligament by which the ends of the bones were united, and a false joint was the consequence. The limb has never been painful, as those of my companions on the day of the rencontre with the lion have been, but, there being a joint too many, I could not steady the rifle, and was always obliged to shoot with the piece resting on the left shoulder. I wanted steadiness of aim, and it generally happened that the more hungry the party became, the more frequently I missed the animals. We spent a Sunday on our way up to the confluence of the Leeba and Leeambye. Kains had fallen here before we came, and the woods had put on their gayest hue. Flowers of great beauty and ciu:ious forms grow everywhere ; they are unlike those in the south, and so are the trees. Many of the forest-tree leaves are palmated and largely developed; the trunks are covered with lichens, and the abundance of ferns which appear in the woods, shows we are now in a more humid climate than any to the south of the Barotse valley. The ground begins to swarm with insect life ; and in the cool, pleasant mornings the Chap. XIV. DEPRAVITY— ITS TREATMENT. 259 welkiii rings -with the singing of birds, whicli is not so delightful as the notes of birds at home, because I have not been familiar with them from infancy. The notes here, however, strike the mind by their loudness and variety, as the wellings forth from joyous hearts, of praise to Him who fills them with overflo^Ning gladness. All of us rise early to enjoy the luscious balmy air of the morning. We then have worship ; but amidst all the beauty and loveliness mth which we are surrounded, there is still a feeling of want in the soul in viewing one's poor companions, and hearing bitter impure words jarring on the ear in the per- fection of the scenes, of nature, and a longing that both their hearts and ours might be brought into harmony with the Great Father of Spuits. I pointed out, in, as usual, the simplest words I could employ, the remedy which God has presented to us, in the inexpressibly precious gift of His own Son, on whom the Lord " laid the iniquity of us all." The great difficulty in dealing with these people is to make the subject plain. The minds of the auditors cannot be understood by one who has not mingled much with them. They readily pray for the forgive- ness of sins, and then sin again ; confess the evil of it, and there the matter ends. I shall not often advert to their depravity. My practice has always been to apply the remedy with all possible earnestness, but never allow my own mind to dwell on the dark shades of men's characters. I have never been able to draw pictures of guilt, as if that could awaken Chi-istian sympathy. The evil is there. But all around in this fair creation are scenes of beauty, and to turn from these to ponder on deeds of sin, cannot promote a healthy state of the faculties. I attribute much of the bodily health I enjoy to following the plan, adopted by most physicians, who, while engaged in active, laborious efforts to assist the needy, at the same time follow the delightfiil studies of some department of natm-al liistory. The human misery and sin we endeavour to alleviate and cure, may be likened to the sick- ness and impiu-ity of some of the back slums of great cities. One, contents himself by ministering to the sick and trying to remove the causes, without remaining longer in the filth than is necessary for his work ; another, equally anxious for the s 2 260 mLD FKUITS. Chap. XIV. public good, stirs up every cesspool, that lie may describe its reeking vapours, and, by long contact with impurities, becomes himself infected, sickens, and dies. The men went about during the day, and brought back wild fruits of several varieties, which I had not hitherto seen. One, called mogametsa, is a bean with a little pulp round it, which tastes like sponge-cake ; another, named mawa, grows abun- dantly on a low bush. There are many berries and edible bulbs almost everywhere. The mamosho or moshomosho, and milo (a medlar), were to be found near our encampment. These are both good, if indeed one can be a fair judge who felt quite dis- posed to pass a favourable verdict on every fruit which had the property of being eatable at all. Many Idnds are better than our crab-apple or sloe ; and, had they half the c^re and cultiure these have enjoyed, might take high rank among the fruits of the world. All that the Africans have thought of has been pre- sent gTatification ; and now, as I sometimes deposit date-seeds in the soil, and tell them I have no hope whatever of seeing the fruit, it seems to them, as the act of the South-Sea Islanders appears to us, when they planted in their gardens iron nails received from Captain Cook. There are many fruits and berries in the forests, the uses of which are unknown to my companions. Great numbers of a kind of palm I have never met with before, were seen growing at and below the confluence of the Loeti and Leeambye ; the seed pro- bably came down the former river. It is nearly as tall as the pahnyra. The fruit is larger than of that species ; it is about four inches long, and has a soft yellow pulp round the kernel, or seed ; when ripe, it is fluid and stringy, like the wild mango, and not very pleasant to eat. Before we came to the junction of the Leeba and Leeambye, we found the banks twenty feet high, and composed of marly sandstone. They are covered with trees, and the left bank has the tsetse and elephants. I suspect the fly has some connection with this animal, and the Portuguese in the district of Tete must think so too, for they call it the Musca da elephant (the elephant The water of inundation covers even these lofty banks, but Chap. XIV. PIGEONS— FISH. 261 does not stand long upon them — Whence the crop of trees. Where it remains for any length of time, trees cannot live. On the right bank, or that in which the Loeti flows, there is an exten- sive flat country called Manga, which, though covered with grass, is destitute in a great measure of trees. Flocks of green pigeons rose from the trees as we passed along the banks, and the notes of many birds told that we were now among strangers of the feathered tribe. The beautiful trogon, with bright scarlet breast and black back, uttered a most peculiar note, similar to that we read of as having once been emitted by Memnon, and likened to the tuning of a lyre. The boatmen answered it by calling " Nama, nama ! " — meat, meat — as if they thought that a repetition of the note would be a good omen for our success in hunting. Many more interesting birds were met ; but I could make no collection, as I was pro- ceeding on the plan of having as Kttle luggage as possible, so as not to excite the cupidity of those through whose country we intended to pass. Vast shoals of fish come down the Leeambye with the rising waters, as we observed they also do in the Zouga. They are probably induced to make this migration, by the increased rapidity of the current dislodging them from their old pasture- grounds higher up the river. Insects constitute but a small portion of the food of many fish. Fine vegetable matter, like slender mosses, growing on the bottom, is devoured greedily ; and, as the fishes are dislodged from the main stream by the force of the current, and find abundant pasture on the flooded plains, the whole community becomes disturbed and wanders. The mosala {Clarias Capensis and Qlanis siluris), the mullet {Mugil Africanus), and other fishes, spread over the Barotse valley in such numbers that, when the waters retire, all the people are employed in cutting them up and drying them in the sun. The supply exceeds the demand, and the land in numerous places is said to emit a most oflensive smell. Wherever you see the Zambesi in the centre of the country, it is remarkable for the abundance of animal life in and upon its waters, and on the adjacent banks. We passed great numbers of hippopotami. They are very 262 HIPPOPOTAMI. Chap. XIV. numerous in the parts of the river where they are never hunted. The males appear of a dark colour, the females of yellowish bro^vn. There is not such a complete separation of the sexes among them as among elephants. They spend most of their time in the water, lolling about in a listless, dreamy manner. When they come out of the river by night, they crop off the soft succulent grasses very neatly. AMien they blow, they puff up the water about tln-ee feet liigh. Chap. XV. MESSAGE TO MASIKO. 263 CHAPTER XV. Message to Masiko, the Barotse chief, regarding the captives — Navigation of the Lceambye — Capabilities of this district — The Leeba — Flowers and bees — Buffalo-hunt — Field lor a botanist — Young alligators ; their savage nature — Suspicion of the Balonda — Sekelenke's present — A man and his'two wives — Hunters — Message from Manenko, a female chief — Mam- bari traders — A dream — Sheakdndo and his people — Teeth-filing — Desire for butter — Interview with Nyamoana, another female chief — Court etiquette — Hair versus wool — Increase of superstition — Arrival of Manenko : her appearance, and husband — Mode of salutation — Anklets — Embassy, with a present from Masiko — Eoast beef — Manioc — Magic-lantern — Manenko an accomplished scold : compels us to wait — Unsuccessful zebra-hunt. On the 27th December we were at the confluence of the Leeba and Leeambye (lat. 14° 10' 52" S., long. 23° 35' 40" E.). Ma- siko, the Barotse chief, for whom we had some captives, lived nearly due east of this point. They were two little boys, a little girl, a young man, and two middle-aged women. One of these was a member of a Babimpe tribe, who knock out both upper and lower front teeth as a distinction. As we had been informed by the captives on the previous Sunday, that Masiko was in the habit of seizing all orphans, and those who have no powerful friend in the tribe whose protection they can claim, and selling them for clothing to the Mambari, we thought the objection of the women to go first to liis town before seeing their friends, quite reasonable, and resolved to send a party of our own people to see them safely among their relatives. I told the captive yoimg man to inform Masiko that he was very imlike his father Santuru, who had refused to sell his people to Mambari. He will probably be afraid to deliver such a message himself, but it is meant for his people, and they will circidate it pretty widely, and Masiko may yet feel a little pressure from without. We sent Mosantu, a Batoka man, and his companions, with the captives. The Barotse whom we had, were unwilHng to go to Masiko, since they owe liim allegiance as the son of Santuru, and while they continue with the Makololo are considered rebels. 264 NAVIGATION OF THE LEEAMBYE. Chap. XV. The message by Mosantu was, tliat " I was sorry to find that Santiiru had not borne a vdser son. Santuru loved to govern men, but Masiko wanted to govern wild beasts only, as he sold his people to the Mambari ;" adding an explanation of the return of the captives, and an injunction to him to live in peace, and prevent his people kidnapping the cliildren and canoes of the Makololo, as a continuance in these deeds would lead to war, which I wished to prevent. He was also instructed to say, if Masiko wanted fuller explanation of my views, he must send a sensible man to talk with me at the first town of the Balonda, to which I was about to proceed. We ferried IMosantu over to the left bank of the Leeba. The journey required five days, but it could not have been at a quicker rate than ten or twelve miles per day ; the children were between seven and eight years of age, and unable to walk fast in a hot sun. Leaving Mosantu to pm'sue liis course, we shall take but one glance do^YQ. the river, wliich we are now about to leave, for it comes at this point from the eastward, and our course is to be directed to the north-west, as we mean to go to Loanda in Angola. From the confluence, where we now are, down to Mosioatiinya, there are many long reaches, where a vessel equal to the Thames steamers plying between the bridges, could run as freely as they do on the Thames. It is often, even here, as broad as that river at London Bridge, but, without accurate measurement of the depth, one could not say which contained most water. There are, however, many and serious obstacles to a continued navigation for hundreds of miles at a stretch. About ten miles below the confluence of the Loeti, for instance, there are many large sandbanks in the stream ; then you have a hundred miles to the river Simah, where a Thames steamer could ply at all times of the year ; but, again, the space between Simah and Katima-molelo has five or six rapids with cataracts, one of wliich, Gonye, could not be passed at any time without portage. Between these rapids there are reaches of still, deep water, of several miles in length. Beyond Katima-molelo to the confluence of the Chobe, you have nearly a hundred miles again, of a river capable of being navigated in the same way as in the Barotse valley. Chap. XV. THE LEEBA. 265 Now, I do not say tliat tliis part of the river presents a very- inviting prospect for extemporaneous European enterprise ; but when we have a pathway which requires only the formation of portages to make it equal to our canals for hundreds of miles, where the pliilosophers supposed there was nought but an exten- sive sandy desert, we must confess that the future partakes at least of the elements of hope. My deliberate conviction was and is, that the part of the country indicated, is as capable of supporting millions of inhabitants as it is of its thousands. The grass of the Barotse valley, for instance, is such a densely matted mass that, when " laid," the stalks bear each other up, so that one feels as if walking on the sheaves of a hay-stack, and the leches nestle under it to bring forth their yomig. The soil which produces this, if placed under the plough, instead of being mere pasturage, would yield grain sufficient to feed vast mul- titudes. We now began to ascend the Leeba. The water is black in colour as compared with the main stream, which here assumes the name of Kabompo. The Leeba flows placidly, and, unlike the parent river, receives nimibers of little rivulets from both sides. It winds slowly through the most charming meadows, each of which has either a soft sedgy centre, large pond, or trickling rill, down the middle. The trees are now covered with a profusion of the freshest foliage, and seem planted in groups of such pleasant, graceful outline, that art could give no additional charm. The grass, which had been burned off and was growing again after the rains, was short and green ; and all the scenery so like that of a carefully-tended gentleman's park, that one is scarcely re- minded that the surrounding region is in the hands of simple nature alone. I suspect that the level meadows are inundated annually, for the spots on which the trees stand are elevated three or four feet above them, and these elevations, being of dif- ferent shapes, give the strange variety of outline of the park-Hke woods. Numbers of a fresh-water shell are scattered aU over these valleys. The elevations, as I have observed elsewhere, are of a soft sandy soil, and the meadows of black rich alluvial loam. There are many beautiful flowers, and many bees to sip their nectar. We found plenty of honey in the woods, and saw the 266 BUFFALO-HUNT. Chap. XV. stages on which the Balonda dry their meat, when they come do^yn to hunt and gather the produce of the wild hives. In one part we came upon groups of lofty trees as straight as masts, with festoons of orchilla-weed hanging from the branches. This, which is used as a dye-stuff, is found nowhere in the dry country to the south. It prefers the humid climate near the west coast. A large buffalo was wounded, and ran into the thickest part of the forest, bleeding profusely. The young men went on his trail ; and, though the vegetation was so dense that no one could have run more than a few yards, most of them went along quite carelessly, picking and eating a fruit of the melon family, called Mponko. When the animal heard them approach he always fled, shifting his stand and doubling on his course in the most cunning manner. In other cases I have known them turn back to a point a few yards from their own trail, and then lie down in a hollow, waiting for the hunter to come up. Though a heavy, lumbering-looking animal, his charge is then rapid and terrific. More accidents happen by the buffalo, and the black rliinoceros, than by the lion. Though aU are aware of the mischievous nature of the buffalo when wounded, our young men went after him quite carelessly. They never lose their presence of mind, but, as a buffalo charges back in a forest, dart dexterously out of his way behind a tree, and, wheeling round it, stab him as he passes. A tree in flower brought the pleasant fragrance of hawthorn- hedges back to memory ; its leaves, flowers, perfume, and fruit, resembled those of the ha^i:hom, only the flowers were as large as dog-roses, and the " haws " Like boys' marbles. Here the flowers smell sweetly, while few in the south emit any scent at aU, or only a nauseous odour. A botanist would find a rich harvest on the banks of the Leeba. This would be his best season, for the flowers all run rapidly to seed, and then insects of every shape spring into existence to devour them. The cHmbing plants display great vigour of gTowth, being not only thick in the trunk, but also at the very point, in the manner of quickly-growing asparagus. The maroro or malolo now appears, and is abundant in many parts between this and Angola. It is a small bush with a yellow fruit, and in its appearance a dwarf Chap. XV. YOUNG ALLIGATORS. 267 " anmar The taste is sweet, and the fruit is wholesome : it is full of seeds, like the custard-apple. On the 28tli we slept at a spot on the right bank, from which had just emerged two broods of alligators. We had seen many- young ones as we came up, so this seems to be their time of coming forth from the nests, for we saw them sunning them- selves on sandbanks in company with the old ones. We made om' fire in one of the deserted nests, which were strewed all over with the broken shells. At the Zouga we saw sixty eggs taken out of one such nest alone. They are about the size of those of a goose, only the eggs of the alligator are of the same diameter at both ends ; and the white shell is partially elastic, from having a strong internal membrane and but little lime in its composi- tion. The distance from the water was about ten feet, and there were evidences of the same place having been used for a similar purpose in former years. A broad path led up from the water to the nest, and the dam, it was said by my companions, after depositing the eggs, covers them up, and returns afterwards to assist the young out of the place of confinement and out of the egg. She leads them to the edge of the water, and then leaves them to catch small fish for themselves. Assistance to come forth seems necessary, for here, besides the tough membrane of the shell, they had four inches of earth upon them ; but tliey do not require immediate aid for food, because they all retain a portion of yolk, equal to that of a hen's egg, in a membrane in the abdomen, as a stock of nutriment, while only beginning inde- pendent existence by catching fish. Fish is the principal food of both small and large, and they are much assisted in catching them by their broad scaly tails. Sometimes an alligator, viewing a man in the water from the opposite bank, rushes across the stream with wonderful agility, as is seen by the high ripple he makes on the surface caused by his rapid motion at the bottom ; but in general they act by stealth, sinking imdemeath as soon as they see man. They seldom leave the water to catch prey, but often come out by day to enjoy the pleasure of basking in the sun. In walking along the bank of the Zouga once, a small one^ about three feet long, made a dash at my feet, and caused me to rush quickly in another direction ; but this is unusual^ for I never heard of a similar case. A wounded leche, chased into 268 ALLIGATORS. Chap. XV. any of the lagoons in the Barotse valley, or a man or dog going in for the piu-pose of bringing out a dead one, is almost sure to be seized, though the alligators may not appear on the surface. When employed in looking for food they keep out of sight ; they fish chiefly by night. Wlien eating, they make a loud champing noise, which when once heard is never forgotten. The young, which had come out of the nests where we spent the night, did not appear wary ; they were about ten inches long, with yellow eyes, and pupil merely a perpendicular slit. They were all marked with transverse stripes of pale green and brown, half an inch broad. AVhen speared, they bit the weapon savagely, though their teeth were but partially developed, uttering at the same time a sharp bark, like that of a whelp when it first begins to use its voice. I could not ascertain whether the dam devours them, as reported, or whether the ichneumon has the same reputation here as in Egypt. Probably the Barotse and Bayeiye would not look upon it as a bene- factor ; they prefer to eat the eggs themselves, and be their own ichneumons. The wliite of the egg does not coagulate, but the yolk does, and tliis is the only part eaten. As the population increases the alligators will decrease, for their nests will be oftener found ; the principal check on their inordinate multiplication seems to be man. They are more savage and commit more mischief in the Leeambye, tlian in any other river. After dancing long in the moonlight nights, young men run down to the water to wash off the dust, and cool them- selves before going to bed, and are thus often carried away. One wonders they are not afraid ; but the fact is, they have as little sense of danger impending over them as the hare has when not actually pursued by the hound ; and in many rencontres, in which they escape, they had not time to be afraid, and only laugh at the circumstance afterwards : there is a want of calm reflection. In many cases, not referred to in tliis book, I feel more horror now in thinking on dangers I have run, than I did at the time of their occurrence. When we reached the part of the river opposite to the village of Manenko, the first female chief whom we encountered, two of the people called Balunda, or Balonda, came to us in their little canoe. From them we learned that Kolimbota, one of our party, Chap. XV. SEKELENKE'S PRESENT. 2G9 who had been in the habit of ^-isiting these parts, was believed by the Balonda to have acted as a guide to the marauders under Lerimo, whose captives we were now returning. They very naturally suspected this, from the facility with which their vil- lages had been found, and, as they had since removed them to some distance from the river, they were unwilling to lead us to their places of concealment. We were in bad repute, but, having a captive boy and girl to show in evidence of Sekeletu and our- selves not being partakers in the guilt of inferior men, I could freely exj)ress my desii'e that all should live in peace. They evidently felt that I ought to have taught the Makololo first, before coming to them, for they remarked that what I advanced was very good, but guilt lay at the door of the Makololo for disturbuig the pre^'iously existing peace. They then went away to report us to Manenko. \\Tien the strangers visited us again in the evening, they were accompanied by a number of the people of an Ambonda chief named Sekelenke. The Ambonda live far to the N.W. ; their language, the Bonda, is the common dialect in Angola. Sekelenke had fled, and was now li\TQg ith his village as a vassal of Masiko. As notices of such men will perhaj)s convey the best idea of the state of the inhabitants to the reader, I shall hereafter allude to the conduct of Sekelenke, whom I at present only introduce. Sekelenke had gone with his ^dllagers to hunt elephants on the right bank of the Leeba, and was now on liis way back to Masiko. He sent me a dish of boiled zebra's flesh, and a request that I should lend liim a canoe to feiTy Ins wives and family across the river to the bank on which we were encamped. Many of Sekelenke's people came to salute the first white man they ever had an opportunity of seeing ; but Seke- lenke himself did not come near. We heard he was ofiended with some of his people for letting me know he was among the company. He said that I should be displeased with liim for not coming and making some present. This was the only instance in which I was shunned in this quarter. As it would have been impolitic to pass Manenko, or any chief, without at least showing so much respect as to call and explain the objects of our passing through the country, we waited two entire days for the return of the messengers to 270 HUNTERS. Chap. XV. Manenko ; and as I could not liurry matters, I went into the adjacent country to search for meat for the camp. The country is famished largely with forest, having occa- sionally open lawns covered mth gxass, not in tufts as in the south, but so closely planted that one cannot see the soil. We came upon a man and liis two wives and children, burning coarse rushes and the stalks of tsitla, growing in a brackish marsh, in order to extract a kind of salt from the ashes. They make a funnel of branches of trees, and line it with grass rope, twisted round until it is, as it were, a beehive-roof inverted. The ashes are put into water, in a calabash, and then it is allowed to per- colate through the small hole in the bottom and through the grass. When this water is evaporated in the sun, it yields sufficient salt to form a relish with food. The women and cliildren fled with precipitation, but we sat down at a distance, and allowed the man time to gain courage enough to speak. He, however, trembled excessively at the apparition before liim ; but when we explained that our object was to hunt game, and not men, he became calm, and called back his wives. We soon afterwards came to another party on the same errand with our- selves. The man had a bow about six feet long, and iron- headed arrows about thirty inches in length; he had also wooden arrows neatly barbed, to shoot in cases where he might not be quite certain of recovering them again. We soon after- wards got a zebra, and gave our hunting acquaintances such a liberal share that we soon became friends. All whom we saw that day then came with us to the encampment to beg a little meat ; and as they have so little salt, I have no doubt they felt grateful for what we gave. Sekelenke and liis people, twenty-four in number, defiled past our camp carrying large bundles of dried elephants' meat. Most of them came to say good-bye, and Sekelenke himself sent to say that he had gone to visit a wife living in the village of Manenko. It was a mere African manoeu^-re to gain information, and not commit himself to either one line of action or another, with re- spect to our visit. As he was probably in the party before us, I replied that it was all right, and when my people came up fr'om Masiko, I would go to my wife too. Another zebra came to om- camp, and as we had friends near, it was shot. It was the Equus Chap. XV. MAMBARI TRADERS. 271 montanus, though the country is perfectly flat, and was finely marked down to the feet, as all the zebras are in these parts. To our first message, offering a visit of explanation to Ma- nenko, we got an answer, with a basket of manioc-roots, that we must remain where we were till she should visit me. Having waited two days already for her, other messengers arrived with orders for me to come to her. After four days of rains and negotiation, I declined going at all, and proceeded up the river to the small stream Makondo (lat. 13° 23' 12" S.), which enters the Leeba from the east, and is between twenty and thirty yards broad. January 1st, 1854'. — ^We had heavy rains almost every day ; indeed the rainy season had fairly set in. Baskets of the pm'ple fruit called mawa were frequently brought to us by the villagers ; not for sale, but from a belief that their chiefs would be pleased to hear that they had treated us well ; we gave them pieces of meat in return. When crossing at the confluence of the Leeba and Makondo, one of my men picked up a bit of a steel watch-chain of English manufacture, and we were informed that this was the spot where the Mambari cross in coming to Masiko, Their visits explain why Sekelenke kept his tusks so carefully. These Mambari are very enterprising merchants : when they mean to trade ^vith a town, they deliberately begin the aflair by building huts, as if they knew that little business could be transacted without a liberal allowance of time for palaver. They bring Manchester goods into the heart of Africa ; these cotton prints look so won- derful that the Makololo could not believe them to be the work of mortal hands. On questioning the Mambari they were an- swered that English manufactm-es came out of the sea, and beads were gathered on its shore. To Africans our cotton-mills are fafry dreams. " How can the frons spin, weave, and print so beautifully ? " Our country is like what Taprobane was to om- ancestors : a strange realm of light, whence came the diamond, musKn, and peacocks ; an attempt at explanation of our manu- factm-es, usually elicits the expression, " Truly ! ye are gods ! " When about to leave the Makondo, one of my men had dreamed that Mosantu was shut up a prisoner in a stockade ; tliis dream depressed the spirits of the whole party, and when I came out of 272 SHEAKONDO AND HIS PEOPLE. Chap. XV. my little tent in the morning, they were sitting the pictures of abject sorrow. I asked if we were to be guided by dreams, or by the authority I derived from Sekeletu, and ordered them to load the boats at once ; they seemed ashamed to confess their fears ; the Makololo j)icked up courage and upbraided the others for having such superstitious views, and said this was always their way ; if even a certain bird called to them, they would turn back from an enterprise, saying it Avas unlucky. They entered the canoes at last, and were the better of a little scolding for being inclined to put dreams before authority. It rained all the morn- ing, but about eleven we reached the village of Sheakondo, on a small stream named Lonkonye. We sent a message to the head-man, who soon appeared with two wives, bearing handsome presents of manioc : Sheakondo could speak the language of the Barotse well, and seemed awe-struck when told some of the " words of God." He manifested no fear, always spoke frankly, and when he made an asseveration, did so by simply pointing up to the sky above him. The Balonda cultivate the manioc, or cassava, extensively ; also diu-a, ground-nuts, beans, maize, sweet potatoes, and yams, here called " lekoto," but as yet we see only the outlying villages. The people who came with Sheakondo to our bivouac, had their teeth filed to a point by way of beautifjdng them, though those which were left untouched were always the whitest ; they are generally tattooed in various parts, but chiefly on the ab- domen : the skin is raised in small elevated cicatrices, each nearly half an inch long and a quarter of an inch in diameter, so that a number of them may constitute a star, or other device. The dark colour of the sldn prevents any coloming matter being deposited in these figm^es, but they love much to have the whole surface of their bodies anointed with a comfortable varnish of oil. In theii- unassisted state they depend on supplies of oil from the Palma-Christi, or castor-oil-plant, or from various other oliferous seeds, but they are all excessively fond of clarified butter or ox fat. Sheakondo's old wife presented some manioc-roots, and then politely requested to be anointed with butter : as I had been bountifully supplied by the Makololo, I gave her as much as would suffice, and as they have Little clothing, I can readily believe that she felt her comfort gi-eatly enlianced thereby. Chap. XV. INTEEYIEW WITH FEMALE CHIEF. 273 The favourite wife, who was also present, was equally anxious for butter. She had a profusion of iron rings on her ankles, to which were attached little pieces of sheet-iron, to enable her to make a tinkling as she walked in her mincing African style ; the same thing is thought pretty by our own dragoons in walking jauntingly. We had so much rain and cloud, that I could not get a single observation for either longitude or latitude for a fortnight. Yet the Leeba does not show any great rise, nor is the water in the least discolom-ed. It is slightly black, from the number of mossy rills which fall into it. It has remarkably few birds and fish, while the Leeambye swarms with both. It is noticeable that alligators here, possess more of the fear of man than in the Leeambye. The Balonda have taught them, by their poisoned arrows, to keep out of sight. We did not see one basking in the sun. The Balonda set so many little traps for birds, that few appear. I observed, however, many (to me) new small birds of song on its banks. More rain has been falKng in the east than here, for the Leeambye was rising fast and working against the sandy banks so vigorously, that a sHght yellow tinge was perceptible in it. One of our men was bitten by a non-venomous serpent, and of course felt no harm. The Barotse concluded, that this was owing to many of them being present and seeing it, as if the sight of human eyes could dissolve the poison, and act as a charm. On the 6th of January, we reached the village of another female chief, named Nyamoana, who is said to be the mother of Manenko, and sister of Shinte or Kabompo, the greatest Balonda chief in this part of the country. Her people had but recently come to the present locality, and had erected only twenty huts. Her husband, Samodna, was clothed in a kilt of green and red baize, and was armed with a spear, and a broad-sword of antique form, about eighteen inches long and three broad. The chief and her husband, were sitting on skins, placed in the middle of a circle, thirty paces in diameter, a little raised above the ordinary level of the ground, and having a trench round it. Outside the trench sat about a hundred persons of all ages and both sexes : the men were well armed with bows, arrows, spears, and broad- T 274 COURT ETIQUETTE. Chap. XV. swords. Beside the husband sat a rather aged woman, having a bad outward squint in the left eye. We put down our arms about forty yards off, and I walked up to the centre of the circular bench, and saluted him in the usual way, by clapping the hands together in their fashion. He pointed to his wife, as much as to say, the honour belongs to her. I saluted her in the same way, and, a mat having been brought, I squatted down in front of them. The talker was then called, and I was asked who was my spokesman. Having pointed to KoKmbota, who knew their dialect best, the palaver began in due form. I explained the real objects I had in view, without any attempt to mystify or appear in any other character than my own, for I have always been satisfied that, even though there were no other consi- derations, the truthful way of dealing with the uncivilised is unquestionably the best. Kolimbota repeated to Nyamoana's talker what I had said to him. He delivered it all verbatim to her husband, who rej)eated it again to her. It was thus all rehearsed four times over, in a tone loud enough to be heard by the whole party of auditors. The response came back by the same roundabout route, beginning at the lady to her hus- band, &c. After explanations and re-explanations, I perceived that our new friends were mixing up my message of peace and friendship with Makololo affahs, and stated, that it was not delivered on the authority of any one less than that of their Creator, and that, if the Makololo did again break His laws and attack the Balonda, the guilt would rest with the Makololo and not with me. The palaver then came to a close. By way of gaining their confidence, I showed them my hair, which is considered a curiosity in all this region. They said, " Is that hair ? It is the mane of a lion, and not hair at aU." Some thought that I had made a wig of hon's mane, as they sometimes do with the fibres of the " ife," and dye it black, and tmst it, so as to resemble a mass of their own wool. I could not return the joke, by telling them that theirs was not hair but the wool of sheep, for they have none of these in the country ; and even though they had, as Herodotus remarked, " the African sheep are clothed with hair, and men's heads with wool." So I Chap. XV. INCREASE OF SUPERSTITION. 275 had to be content with asserting, that mine was the real original hair, such as theirs would have been, had it not been scorched and frizzled by the sun. In proof of what the sun could do, I compared my own bronzed face and hands, then about the same in complexion as the lighter-coloured Makololo, with the white skin of my chest. They readily believed that, as they go nearly naked and fully exposed to that influence, we might be of common origin after all. Here, as everywhere when heat and moisture are combined, the people are very dark, but not quite black. There is always a shade of brown in the most deeply colom-ed. I showed my watch and pocket compass, which are considered gTcat curiosities ; but, though the lady was called on by her husband to look, she would not be persuaded to approach near enough. These people are more superstitious than any we had yet encountered ; though still only building their tillage, they had found time to erect two little sheds at the chief dwelling in it, in which were placed two pots having charms in them. When asked what medicine they contained, they replied, " Medicine for the Barimo ;" but when I rose and looked into them, they said they were medicine for the game. Here we saw the jSrst evidence of the existence of idolatry, in the remains of an old idol at a deserted village. It was simply a human head carved on a block of wood. Certain charms mixed Avith red ochre and white pipe-clay are dotted over them, when they are in use ; and a crooked stick is used in the same way for an idol, when they have no professional carver. As the Leeba seemed still to come from the direction in which we wished to go, I was desirous of proceeding farther up with the canoes ; but Nyamoana was anxious that v^^e shoidd allow her people to conduct us to her brother Shinte ; and when I explained the advantage of water-carriage, she represented that her brother did not Kve near the river, and, moreover, there was a cataract in front, over which it would be difficult to convey the canoes. She was afraid, too, that the Balobale, whose coimtry Hes to the west of the river, not knowing the objects for which we had come, would kill us. To my reply, that I had been so often threatened with death if I visited a new tribe, that I was now more afraid of killing any one than of being killed, she T 2 276 MODE OF SALUTATION. Chap. XV. rejoined, that the Balobale would not kill me, but the Makololo would all be sacrificed as their enemies. This produced con- siderable effect on my companions, and inclined them to the plan of Nyamoana, of going to the town of her brother, rather than ascending the Leeba. The arrival of Manenko herself on the scene, tlirew so much weight into the scale on their side, that I was forced to yield the point. Manenko was a tall strapping woman about twenty, distin- guished by a profusion of ornaments and medicines hung round her person ; the latter are supposed to act as charms. Her body was smeared all over with a mixture of fat and red oclire, as a protection against the weather ; a necessary precaution, for, like most of the Balonda ladies, she was otherwise in a state of frightfid nudity. This was not from want of clothing, for, being a chief, she, might have been as well clad as any of her subjects, but from her peculiar ideas of elegance in dress. Wlien she arrived with her husband, Sambanza, they listened for some time to the statements I was making to the people of Nyamoana, after which the husband, acting as spokesman, commenced an oration, stating the reasons for their coming, and, during every two or tliree seconds of the delivery, he picked up a little sand, and rubbed it on the upper part of his arms and chest. This is a common mode of salutation in Londa ; and when they wish to be excessively polite, they bring a quantity of ashes or pipe- clay in a piece of skin, and, taking up handfuls, rub it on the chest and upper front part of each arm ; others, in saluting, drum their ribs with their elbows ; while others still, touch the ground with one cheek after the other, and clap their hands. The chiefs go tlu'ough the manoeuvre of rubbing the sand on the arms, but only make a feint at picking up some. When Sambanza had finished his oration, he rose up, and showed his ankles orna- mented with a bundle of copper rings ; had they been very heavy, they would have made him adopt a straggling walk. Some chiefs have really so many, as to be forced, by the weight and size, to keep one foot apart from the other; the weight being a serious inconvenience in walking. The gentlemen Kke Sambanza, who wish to imitate their betters, do so in their walk ; so you see men, Avitli only a few ounces of ornament on their legs, strutting along as if they had double the number of Chap. XV. EMBASSY AND PRESENT FROM MASIKO. 277 pounds. When I smiled at Sambanza's walk, the people re- marked, " That is the way in which they show off their lordship in these parts." Manenko was quite decided in the adoption of the policy of friendsliip with the Makololo which we recommended ; and, by way of cementing the bond, she and her coimsellors proposed that Kolimbota should take a wife among them. By this expe- dient she hoped to secure his friendship, and also accurate in- formation as to the futm-e intentions of the Makololo. She thought that he would visit the Balonda more frequently after- wards, having the good excuse of going to see his ^vife ; and the Makololo would never, of course, kill the villagers among whom so near a relative of one of their own children dwells. KoKm- bota, I found, thought favourably of the proposition, and it after- wards led to his desertion from us. On the evening of the day in which Manenko arrived, we were delighted by the appearance of Mosantu and an imposing em- bassy from Masiko. It consisted of all his underchiefs, and they brought a fine elephant's tusk, two calabashes of honey, and a large piece of blue baize, as a present. The last was intended perhaps to show me that he was a truly great chief, who had such stores of white men's goods at hand that he could afford to give presents of them ; it might also be intended for Mosantu, for chiefs usually remember the servants ; I gave it to him. Masiko expressed delight, by his principal men, at the return of the captives, and at the proposal of peace and alliance with the Makololo. He stated that he never sold any of liis own peoj)le to the Mambari, but only captives whom his people kidnapped from small neighbouring tribes. When the question was put, whether his people had been in the habit of molesting the Mako- lolo by kidnapping their servants and stealing canoes, it was admitted that two of his men, when hunting, had gone to the Makololo gardens, to see if any of their relatives were there. As the great object in all native disputes is to get both parties to turn over a new leaf, I explained the desirableness of forget- ting past feuds, accepting the present Makololo professions as genuine, and avoiding in future to give them any cause for marauding. I presented Masiko with an ox, furnished by Seke- letu as provision for ourselves. All these people are excessively 278 MANEXKO A SCOLD. Chap. XV. fond of beef and butter, from having been accustomed to tliem in their youth, before the Makololo deprived them of cattle. They have abundance of game, but I am quite of their opinion, that, after all, there is nought in the world equal to roast beef ; and that in their love for it the English show both good taste and sound sense. The ox was intended for Masiko, but his men were very anxious to get my sanction for slaughtering it on the spot. I replied, that when it went out of my hands I had no more to do with it. They, however, wished the responsibility of slaughtering it to rest with me ; if I had said they might kill it, not many oimces would have remained in the morning. I would have given permission, but had nothing else to offer in return for Masiko's generosity. We were now mthout any provisions except a small dole of manioc-roots each evening from Nyamoana, which, when eaten raw, produce poisonous effects. A small loaf, made from nearly the last morsel of maize-meal from Libonta, was my stock, and our friends from Masiko were still more destitute ; yet we all rejoiced so much at their arrival, that we resolved to spend a day with them. The Barotse of oiu: party, meeting mth relatives and fr'iends among the Barotse of Masiko, had many old tales to tell; and, after pleasant hungry converse by day, we regaled our friends T\dtli the magic lantern by night, and, in order to make the thing of use to all, we removed our camp up to the village of Nyamoana. This is a good means of arresting the attention, and convepng important facts to the minds of these people. When erecting our sheds at the village, Manenko fell upon our friends from Masiko in a way that left no doubt on our minds but that she is a most accomplished scold. 3Iasiko had, on a former occasion, sent to Samoana for a cloth, a common w^ay of keeping up intercourse, and, after receiving it, sent it back, because it had the appearance of having had " witchcraft medicine " on it ; tliis was a grave offence, and now Manenko had a good excuse for venting her spleen, the ambassadors having called at her village, and slept in one of the huts without leave. If her family was to be suspected of deahng in e\41 charms, why were Masiko's people not to be thought guUty of leavinsr the same in her hut? She advanced and receded in Chap. XV. DETAINED BY MANENKO. 279 true oratorical style, belabouring her o™ servants as well for allowing the offence, and, as usual in more civilized feminine lectures, she leaned over the objects of her ire, and screamed forth all their faults and failings ever since they were born, and her despair of ever seeing them become better, until they were all " killed by alligators." Masiko's people followed the plan of receiving this torrent of abuse in silence, and, as neither we nor they had anything to eat, we parted next morning. In reference to Masiko selling slaves to the Mambari, they promised to ex- plain the relationship which exists between even the most abject of his people and our common Father ; and that no more kid- napping ought to be allowed, as he ought to give that peace and secm-ity to the smaller tribes on his eastern borders, which he so much desired to obtain himseK from the Makololo ; we promised to return through his town when we came back from the sea- coast. Manenko gave us some manioc-roots in the morning, and had determined to carry our baggage to her imcle's, Kabompo or Shinte. We had heard a sample of what she could do with her tong-ue ; and as neither my men nor myself had much inclination to encounter a scolding from tliis black Mrs. Caudle, we made ready the packages ; but she came and said the men whom she had ordered for the service had not yet come ; they would arrive to-mon-ow. Beiag on low and disagTeeable diet, I felt annoyed at this further delay, and ordered the packages to be put into the canoes to proceed up the river without her sers^ants ; but Manenko was not to be circumvented in this way ; she came forward with her people, and said her uncle would be angry if she did not carry forward the tusks and goods of Sekeletu, seized the luggage, and declared that she would carry it in spite of me. My men succumbed sooner to this petticoat government than I felt inclined to do, and left me no power ; and, being unwilling to encounter her tongue, I was moving off' to the canoes, when she gave me a kind explanation, and, with her hand on my shoulder, put on a motherly look, saying, " Now, my little man, just do as the rest have done." My feelings of annoyance of course vanished, and I went out to try and get some meat. The only game to be found in these paiis are, the zebra, the 280 UNSUCCESSFUL ZEBEA-HUNT. Chap. XY. kualata or talietsi {Aigoceros equina), kama (Bubalus caama), buffaloes, and tlie small antelope hakitenwe {Philantomha). The animals can be seen here only by following on their trail for many miles. Urged on by hunger, we followed that of some zebras dm-ing the gTeater part of the day : when witliin fifty yards of them, in a dense thicket, I made sure of one, but, to my in- finite disgust, the gun missed fire, and off they bounded. The climate is so very damp, from daily heavy rains, that everything becomes loaded with moisture, and the powder in the gun- nipples cannot be kept dry. It is cm-ious to mark the intelli- gence of the game ; in districts where they are much annoyed by fii-e-arms, they keep out on the most open spots of country they can find, in order to have a widely-extended range of vision, and a man armed is carefully shunned. From the frequency with which I have been allowed to approach nearer without than with a gun, I believe they know the difference between safety and danger in the two cases. But here, where they are killed by the arrows of the Balonda, they select for safety the densest forest, where the arrow cannot be easily shot. The variation in the selection of standing spots dm-ing the day may, however, be owing partly to the gTeater heat of the sun, for here it is parti- cularly sharp and penetrating. However accounted for, the Avild animals here do select the forests by day, wliile those farther south generally shun these covers, and, on several occasions, I have observed there was no sunsliine to cause them to seek for shade. Chap. XVI. CHARMS. 281 CHAPTEE XVL Nyamoana's present — Charms — Manecko's pedestrian powers — An idol — Balonda arms — Eain — Hunger — Palisades — Dense forests — Artificial beehives — Mushrooms — Villagers lend the roofs of their houses — Divi- nation and idols — Manenko's whims — A night-alarm — Shinte's mes- sengers and present — The proper way to approach a village — A merman — Enter Shinte's town: its appearance — Meet two half-caste slave- traders — The Makolok) scorn them — The Balonda real negroes — Grand reception from Shinte — His kotla — Ceremony of introduction — The orators — Women — Ml^sicians and musical instruments — A disagreeable request — Private interview with Shinte — Give him an ox — Fertility of soil — Manenko's new hut — Conversation with Shinte — Kolimbota's X^roposal — Balonda puncti liousness — Selling chi Idren — Kidnapping — Shinte's offer of a slave — Magic-lantern — Alarm of women — Delay — Sambanza returns intoxicated — The last and greatest proof of Shinte's friendship. 11th January^ 1854. — On starting this morning, Samoana (or ratlier Nyamoana, for the ladies are the chiefs here) presented a string of beads, and a shell highly valued among them, as an atonement for having assisted Manenko, as they thought, to vex me the day before. They seemed anxious to avert any evil which might arise from my displeasm-e ; but having replied that I never kept up my anger all night, they were much pleased to see me satisfied. We had to cross, in a canoe, a stream which flows past the village of Nyamoana. Manenko's doctor Avaved some charms over her, and she took some in her hand and on her body before she ventm-ed upon the water. One of my men spoke rather loudly when near the doctor's basket of medicines. The doctor reproved him, and always spoke in a whisper himself, glancing back to the basket as if afraid of being heard by some- thing therein. So much superstition is quite unknown in the south, and is mentioned here to show the difference in the feel- ings of this new people, and the compiarative want of reverence on these points among Caftres and Bechuanas. Manenko was accompanied by her husband and her drum- mer; the latter continued to thump most ^^gorously, until a heavy drizzling mist set in and compelled him to desist. Her 282 AN IDOL— BALONDA ARMS. Chap. XVI. husband used various incantations and vociferations to drive away the rain, but down it poured incessantly, and on our Amazon went, in the very hghtest marching order, and at a pace that few of the men could keep up with. Being on ox-back, I kept pretty close to our leader, and asked her why she did not clothe herself during the rain, and learned that it is not considered proper for a chief to appear effeminate. He or she must always wear the appearance of robust youth, and bear vicissitudes without vnnc- ing. My men, in admu-ation of her pedestrian powers, every now and then remarked, " Manenko is a soldier ;" and thorouglily wet and cold, we were all glad when she proposed a halt to pre- pare our night's lodging on the banks of a stream. The country through which we were passing was the same succession of forest and open lawns as formerly mentioned — the trees were nearly all evergTeens, and of good, though not very gigantic, size. The lawns were covered with grass, which in thickness of crop looked like ordinary English hay. We passed two small hamlets smTounded by gardens of maize and manioc, and near each of these I observed, for the first time, an ugly idol common in Londa — the figme of an animal, resembling an alli- gator, made of clay. It is formed of gTass, plastered over with soft clay ; two cowrie-shells are inserted as eyes, and numbers of the bristles from the tail of an elej)hant are stuck in about the neck. It is caUed a hon, though, if one were not told so, he would conclude it to be %n alligator. It stood in a shed, and the Balonda pray and beat drums before it all night in cases of sick- ness. Some of the men of Manenko's train had shields made of reeds, neatly woven into a square shape, about five feet long and three broad. With these, and short broadswords and sheaves of ii'on-headed arrows, they appeared rather ferocious. But the constant habit of wearing arms is probably only a substitute for the courage they do not possess. We always deposited our fire- ai-ms and spears outside a village before entering it, while the Balonda, on visiting us at our encampment, always came fully armed, until we ordered them either to lay down their weapons or be off. Kext day we passed through a piece of forest so dense that no one could have penetrated it without an axe. It was flooded, not by the river, but by the heavy rains which Chap. XVI. HUNGER— PALISADES. 283 poured down every day, and kept those who had clothing con- stantly wet. I observed, m this piece of forest, a very strong smell of sulphuretted hydrogen. This I had observed repeatedly in other parts before. I had attacks of fever of the intermittent type again and again, in consequence of repeated drenchings in these unhealthy spots. On the 11th and 12th we were detained by incessant rains, and so heavy I never saw the like in the south. I had a little tapioca and a small quantity of Libonta meal, which I still reserved for worse times. The patience of my men under hunger was admirable ; the actual want of the present is never so painful as the thought of getting nothing in the future. We thought the people of some large hamlets near us very niggardly and very independent of their chiefs, for they gave us and jManenko nothing, though they had large fields of maize in an eatable state around them. When she went and kindly begged some for me, they gave her five ears only. They were subjects of her uncle ; and, had they been IMakololo, would have been lavish in their gifts to the niece of their chief. I suspected that they w^ere dependants of some of Shinte's principal men, and had no power to part with the maize of their masters. Each house of these hamlets has a palisade of thick stakes around it, and the door is made to resemble the rest of the stockade ; the door is never seen open ; when the owner wishes to enter, he removes a stake or two, squeezes his body in, then plants them again in their places, so that an enemy coming in the night would find it difficult to discover the entrance. These palisades seem to indicate a sense of insecurity in regard to their fellow-men, for there are no mid beasts to disturb them ; the bows and arrows have been nearly as efficacious in clearing the country here, as guns have in the country further south. This was a disappointment to us, for we expected a continuance of the abimdance of game in the north, which we found when we first came up to the confluence of the Leeba and Leeambye. A species of the silver-tree of the Cape (Leucodendron argeyi- teum) is found in abundance in the parts thi'ough which we have travelled since leaving Samoana's. As it grows at a height of between two and three thousand feet above the level of the sea, on the Cape Table Mountain, and again on the northern 284 DENSE FOKESTS. Chap. XYI. slope of the Caslian Mountains, and here at considerably greater heights (four thousand feet), the difference of climate prevents the botanical range being considered as affording a good approxi- mation to the altitude. The rapid flow of the Leeambye, which once seemed to me e\ddence of much elevation of the country from wliich it comes, I now found, by the boiling point of water, was fallacious.* The forests became more dense as we went north. We tra- velled much more in the deep gloom of the forest than in open sunlight. No passage existed on either side of the narrow path made by the axe. Large climbing plants entwined themselves around the trunks and branches of gigantic trees like boa- constrictors, and they often do constrict the trees by which they rise, and, killing them, stand erect themselves. The bark of a fine tree found in abundance here, and called " motuia," is used by the Barotse for making fish lines and nets, and the "molompi," so well adapted for paddles by its lightness and flexibility, was abundant. There were other trees quite new to my companions ; many of them ran up to a height of fifty feet of one thickness, and without branches. In these forests, we first encountered the artificial beehives so commonly met with all the way from this to Angola ; they consist of about five feet of the bark of a tree fifteen or eighteen * On examiuing this subject when I returned to Linyanti, I found that, according to Dr. Arnott, a declivity of three inches per mile gives a velocity in a smooth straight channel of three miles an hour. The general velocity of the Zambesi is three miles and three quarters per hour, though in the rocky parts it is sometimes as much as four and a half. If, however, we make allowances for roughness of bottom, bendings of channel, and sudden descents at cataracts, and say the declivity is even seven inches per mile, those 800 miles between the east coast and the great falls would require less than 500 feet to give the observed velocity, and the additional distance to this point would require but 150 feet of altitude more. If my observation of this altitude may be depended on, we have a steeper declivity for the Zambesi than for some other great rivers. The Ganges, for instance, is said to be at 1800 miles from its mouth only 800 feet above the level of the sea, and water requires a month to come that distance. But there are so many modifying circumstances, it is difficult to draw any reliable conclusion from the currents. The Chobe is sometimes heard of as flooded, about 40 miles above Linyanti, a fortnight before the inundation reaches that point ; but it is very tortuous. The great river Magdalena falls only 500 feet in a thousand miles ; other rivers much more. Chap. XVI. BEEHIVES— :MUSHR00MS. 285 inches in diameter. Two incisions are made right round the tree at points five feet apart, then one longitudinal slit from one of these to the other ; the workman next lifts up the bark on each side of this slit, and detaches it from the trunk, taking care not to break it, until the whole comes from the tree. The elasticity of the bark makes it assume the form it had before ; the slit is sewed or pegged up with wooden pins, and ends made of coiled grass-rope are inserted, one of which has a hole for the ingress of the bees ip. the centre, and the hive is complete. These hives are placed in a horizontal position on high trees in different parts of the forest, and in this way all the wax exported from Benguela and Loanda is collected. It is all the produce of free labom\ A " piece of medicine " is tied round the trunk of the tree, and proves sufficient protection against thieves. The natives seldom rob each other, for all believe that certain medicines can inflict disease and death ; and though they con- sider that these are only known to a few, they act on the principle that it is best to let them all alone. The gloom of these forests strengthens the superstitious feeHngs of the people. In other quarters, where they are not subjected to this influence, I have heard the chiefs issue proclamations to the effect, that real witchcraft medicines had been placed at certain gardens from which produce had been stolen ; the tliieves having risked the power of the ordinary charms previously placed there. This being the rainy season, great quantities of mushrooms were met with, and were eagerly devoured by my companions ; the edible variety is always found growing out of ant-liills, and attains the diameter of the crown of a hat; they are quite white, and very good, even w^hen eaten raw ; they occupy an extensive region of the interior ; some, not edible, are of a brilliant red, and others are of the same light blue as the paper used by apothecaries to put up their medicines. There was considerable pleasure, in spite of rain and fever, in this new scenery. The deep gloom contrasted strongly with the shadeless glare of the Kalahari, wliich had left an indelible impression on my memory. Though drenched day by day at this time, and for months afterwards, it was long before I could believe that we were getting too much of a good thing. Nor 286 LENDING ROOFS OF HUTS. Chap. XVI. could I look at water being thrown away, without a slight, quick impression flitting across the mind that we were guilty of wasting it. Every now and then we emerged from the deep gloom into a pretty little valley, having a damp portion in the middle; which, though now filled with water, at other times contains moisture enough for wells only. These wells have shades put over them in the form of httle huts. We crossed, in canoes, a Kttle never-failing stream, which passes by the name Lefuje, or the rapid." It comes from a goodly high mountain, called Monakadzi (the w^oman), which gladdened our eyes as it rose to our sight about twenty or thirty miles to the east of our course. It is of an oblong shape, and seemed at least eight hundred feet above the plains. The Lefuje probably derives its name from the rapid descent of the short com'se it has to flow from Monakadzi to the Leeba. The number of little villages seemed about equal to the number of valleys. At some we stopped and rested, the people becoming more liberal as we advanced. Others we found de- serted, a sudden panic having seized the inhabitants, though the drum of Manenko was kept beaten pretty constantly, in order to give notice of the approach of great people. When we had decided to remain for the night at any village, the inhabitants lent us the roofs of their huts, which in form resemble those of the Makololo, or a Chinaman's hat, and can be taken off" the waUs at pleasure. They lifted them off, and brought them to the spot we had selected as our lodging, and, when my men had propped them up with stakes, they w^ere then safely housed for the night. Every one who comes to salute either Manenko or ourselves, rubs the upper parts of the arms and chest with ashes ; those who wish to show profounder reverence, put some also on the face. We found that every village had its idols near it. This is the case all through the country of the Balonda, so that, when we came to an idol in the woods, w^e always knew that we were within a quarter of an hour of human habitations. One very ugly idol we passed, rested on a horizontal beam placed on two upright posts. This beam was fm-nished with two loops of cord, as of a chain, to suspend offerings before it. On remarking to my companions that these idols had ears, but that they heard Chap. XVI. MANENKO'S WHIMS. 287 not, &c., I learned that tlie Balonda, and even the Barotse, believe that divination may be performed by means of these blocks of wood and clay ; and though the wood itself could not hear, the owners had medicines by which it could be made to hear and give responses ; so that if an enemy were approaching they would have full information. Manenko having brought us to a stand, on account of slight indisposition and a desire to send forward notice of our approach to her uncle, I asked why it was necessary to send forward information of our movements, if Shinte had idols who could tell him everything ? " She did it only," * was the reply. It is seldom of much use to show one who worships idols the folly of idolatry, without giving something- else as an object of adoration instead. They do not love them. They fear them, and betake themselves to their idols only when in perplexity and danger. Wliilst delayed, by Manenko's management, among the Ba- londa villages, a little to the south of the town of Shinte, we were well supplied by the villagers with sweet potatoes and gi'een maize ; Sambanza went to his mother's village for sup- plies of other food. I was labouring under fever, and did not find it very difficult to exercise patience with her whims ; but it being Saturday, I thought we might as well go to the town for Sunday (15th.) "No; her messenger must return from her uncle first." Being sure that the answer of the uncle would be favourable, I thought we might go on at once, and not lose two days in the same spot. " No, it is our custom ;" and everything else I could urge was answered in the genuine pertinacious lady style. She ground some meal for me with her own hands, and, when she brought it, told me she had actually gone to a village and begged corn for the purpose. She said this with an air as if the inference must be drawn by even a stupid white man : " I know how to manage, don't I ? " It was refreshing to get food which could be eaten without producing the unpleasantness described by the Kev. John Newton, of St. Mary's, Woolnoth, London, when obliged to eat the same roots while a slave in the West Indies. The day (January 14th) for a wonder was fair, and * This is a curious African idiom, by which a person implies he had no particular reason for his act. 288 MODE OF APPROACHING VILLAGES. Chap. XVI. the sun shone, so as to allow us to dry our clothing and other goods, many of Tvliich were mouldy and rotten from the long- continued damp. The guns rusted, in spite of being oiled every evening. During the night we were all awakened by a terrific slu-iek from one of Manenko's ladies. She piped out so loud and long that we all imagined she had been seized by a lion, and my men snatched up their arms, which they always place so as to be ready at a moment's notice, and ran to the rescue ; but we found the alarm had been caused by one of the oxen thrusting his head into her hut, and smelling her : she had put her hand on his cold wet nose, and thought it was all over with her. On Sunday afternoon messengers arrived from Shinte, ex- pressing his approbation of the objects we had in view in our journey through liis country, and that he was glad of the pros- pect of a way being opened by which white men might visit him, and allow him to purchase ornaments at pleasure. Ma- nenko now tlireatened in sport to go on, and I soon afterwards perceived that what now seemed to me the dilly-dallying way of this lady, was the proper mode of making acquaintance with the Balonda ; and much of the favour vdih which I was received in dilBferent places was owing to my sending forward messengers, to state the object of our coming, before entering each town and village. When we came in sight of a village, we sat doAvn under the shade of a tree, and sent forward a man to give notice who we were, and what were our objects. The head man of the village then sent out his principal men, as Shinte now did, to bid us welcome, and show us a tree under which we might sleep. Before I had profited by the rather tedious teaching of Manenko, I sometimes entered a village, and created unintentional alarm. The villagers would continue to look upon us with suspicion as long as we remained. Sliinte sent us two large baskets of manioc, and six dried fishes. His men had the skin of a monkey, called in their tongue "poluma" (Colobus guereza), of a jet black colom-, except the long mane, which is pure white ; it is said to be found in the north, in the country of Matiamvo, the para- mount chief of all the Balonda. We learned from them, that they are in the habit of praying to their idols when unsuccessful in killing game, or in any other enterprise. They behaved with Chap. XVI. 289 reverence at om- religions services. This will appear important, if the reader remembers the almost total want of prayer and reverence we encountered in the south. Our friends informed us that Shinte would be highly honoured by the presence of three white men in liis town at once. Two others had sent forward notice of their approach from another quarter (the west) ; could it be Barth or Krapf ? How pleasant to meet Tvith Euro23eans in such an out-of-the-way region ! The rush of thoughts made me almost forget my fever. Are they of the same colour as I am ? — " Yes ; exactly so." — And have the same hau- ? — Is that hair ? we thought it was a wig ; we never saw the like before ; this white man must be of the sort that lives m the sea." Henceforth my men took this hint, and ahvays sounded my praises as a true specimen of the variety of wliite men who live in the sea. Only look at liis hair — it is made quite straight by the sea-water !" I explained to them again and again that, when it was said we came out of the sea, it did not mean that we came from beneath the water ; but the fiction has been widely spread in the interior by the Mambari, that the real white men live in the sea, and the myth was too good not to be taken advantage of by my com- panions ; so, not\nthstanding my injimctions, I believe that, when I was out of hearing, my men always represented themseh^es a^ led by a genuine merman : " Just see his hau* ! " If I returned from walking to a little distance, they would remark of some to whom they had been holding forth, " These people want to see your hair." As the strangers had woolly haii- like themselves, I had to give up the idea of meeting an}i:hing more European, than two half-caste Portuguese, engaged in trading for slaves, ivory, and bees'-wax. 16th. — After a short march we came to a most lovely valley about a mile and a half wide, and stretching away east- wards up to a low prolongation of Monakadzi. A small stream meanders down the centre of this pleasant green glen ; and on a little rill, which flows into it from the western side, stands tlu town of Kabompo ; or, as he likes best to be called, Shmtr. (Lat. 12° 37' 35" S., long. 22° 47' E.) When Manenko thougLi the sun was high enough for us to make a lucky entrance, c u 290 SLAYE-TEADERS. Chap. XYI. found tlie town embowered in banana and otber tropical trees having great expansion of leaf ; tlie streets are straight, and present a complete contrast to those of the Bechuanas, which are all very tortuous. Here too we first saw native huts with square walls and round roofs. The fences or walls of the courts, which surround the huts, are wonderfully straight, and made of upright poles a few inches apart, with strong grass or leafy bushes neatly woven between. In the courts were small planta- tions of tobacco, and a little solanaceous plant which the Balonda use as a relish, also sugar-cane and bananas. Many of the poles have groTO again, and trees of the Ficus indiea family have been planted around, in order to give to the inhabitants a grateful shade ; they regard this tree with some sort of veneration as a medicine or charm. Goats w^ere browsing about, and, when we made our appearance, a crowd of negi'oes, all fully armed, ran towards us as if they would eat us up ; some had guns, but the manner in wliich they were held, showed that the omiers were more accustomed to bows and arrovrs, than to white men's weapons. After surrounding and staring at us for an hour, they began to disperse. The two native Portuguese traders of whom we had heard, had erected a little encampment opposite the place where ours was about to be made. One of them, w^hose spine had been injured in youth, a rare sight in this country, came and visited us. I returned the visit next morning. His tall companion had that - sic]dy yellow hue which made him look fau-er than myself, but liis head was covered with a crop of unmistakeable wool. They had a gang of young female slaves in a chain, hoeing the ground in front of their encampment to clear it of weeds and grass ; these w^ere purchased recently in Lobale, whence the traders had now come. There were many Mambari Avith them, and the establishment was conducted with that military order which pervades all the an-angements of the Portuguese colonists. A di-um was beaten, and trumpet somided at certain hours, quite in mihtary fashion. It was the first time most of my men had seen slaves in chains. " They are not men !" they exclaimed (mean- ing they are beasts), " who treat theu' children so ! " The Balonda are real negroes, having much more wool on then- heads and bodies than any of the Bechuana or Caffre tribes. Chap. XYI. TtECEPTIOX BY SHINTE. 291 They are generally very dark in colour, but several are to be seen of a ligliter hue ; many of the slaves who have been ex- ported to Brazil, have gone from this region ; but while tliey have a general similarity to the typical negTO, I never could, from my ovm observation, think that om* ideal negTO, as seen in tobacconists' shops, is the true type. A large proportion of the Balonda, indeed, have heads somewhat elongated backwards and ujDwards, thick lips, flat noses, elongated ossa calces, &c. &c. ; but there are also many good-looking, well-shaped heads and persons among them. 17th, Tuesday. — We were honoured with a grand reception by Shinte about eleven o'clock. Sambanza claimed the honom- of presenting us, Manenko being slightly indisposed. The native Portuguese and Mambari went fully armed with guns, in order to give Shinte a salute ; theii' diTimmer and trumpeter making all tlie noise that very old instruments would produce. The kotla, or place of audience, was about a hundi-ed yards square, and two graceful specimens of a species of banian stood near one end ; under one of these sat Shinte, on a sort of tlnone covered with a leopard's skin. He had on a checked jaclcet, and a Idlt of scarlet baize edged with green ; many strings of large beads hung from his neck, and his limbs were covered with iron and copper armlets and bracelets ; on liis head he wore a liebnet made of beads woven neatly together, and crowned a great bunch of goose-feathers. Close to him sat three lads with large sheaves of arrows over then- shoulders. ^^'hen we entered the kotla, the whole of Manenko's party saluted Shinte by clapping their hands ; and Sambanza did obeisance by rubbing his chest and arms with ashes. One of the trees being unoccupied, I retreated to it for the sake of the shade, and my whole party did the same. We w^ere now about forty yards from the cliief, and could see the whole ceremony. The different sections of the tribe came forward in the same way that we did, the head man of each making obeisance with ashes which he carried with him for the purpose ; then came the sol- diers, all armed to the teeth, running and shouting towards us, with their swords drawn, and their faces screwed up so as to appear as savage as possible, for the pm-pose, I thought, of trying whether they could not make us take to om- heels. As 292 EECEPTIOX BY SHIXTE. Chap. XYI. we did not, they tiu-ued round towards Shinte, and saluted him ; then retii'ed. AYhen all had come, and were seated, then began the cm-ions caj)ering usually seen in pichos. A man starts up, and imitates the most a2:>proved attitudes observed in actual fight, — as if thi'owing one javelin, recei^dng another on the shield, springing to one side to avoid a thu'd, running backwards or forwards, leaping, &c. This over, Sambanza, and the spokes- man of Xyamoana, stalked backwards and forwards in front of Shmte, and gave forth, in a loud voice, all they had been able to learn, either from myself or people, of my past history and connection with the Makololo ; the retm-n of the captives ; the wish to open the country to trade ; the Bible as a word from heaven ; the white man's desire for the tribes to live in peace : he ought to have taught the Makololo that first, for the Balonda never attacked them, yet they had assailed the Balonda : per- haps he is fibbing, perhaps not ; they rather thought he was ; but as the Balonda had good hearts, and Sliinte had never done hai-m to any one, he had better receive the white man well, and send him on his way. Sambanza was gaily attu-ed, and, besides a profusion of beads, had a cloth so long that a boy earned it after him as a train. Behind Sliinte sat about a hundred women, clothed in then- best, wliich happened to be a profusion of red baize. The chief wife of Shinte, one of the Matebele or Zulus, sat in fi'ont with a curious red cap on her head. Dm-ing the intervals between the speeches, these ladies burst forth into a sort of plaintive ditty ; but it was im]30ssible for any of us to catch whether it was in praise of the speaker, of Shinte, or of themselves. This was the first time I had ever seen females present in a pubhc assembly. In the south the women are not permitted to enter the kotla ; and even when invited to come to a rehgious service there, would not enter imtil ordered to do so by the cliief; but here they expressed approbation by clapping then- hands, and laughiag to different speakers ; and Shinte frequently turned round and sj^oke to them. A party of musicians, consisting of tln-ee drummers and four performers on the piano, went round the kotla several times, regaKng us with their music. The di-ums are neatly carved from the trunk of a tree, and have a small hole in the side Chap. XVI. MUSICIANS AXD MUSICAL IXSTRUIMENTS. 293 covered with a bit of spider's web : the ends are covered with the skin of an antelope pegged on ; and when they wish to tighten it they liold it to the fire to make it contract : the instruments are beaten with the hands. The IMarimba, or Musical Instrument of the Balonda. The piano, named " marimba," consists of two bars of wood placed side by side, here quite straight, but, farther noi-th, bent round so as to resemble half the tire of a carriage-wheel ; across these are placed about fifteen wooden keys, each of which is two or three inches broad, and fifteen or eighteen inches long ; their tliickness is regidated according to the deepness of the note requu-ed : each of the keys has a calabash beneath it ; from the upper part of each, a portion is cut off to enable them to embrace the bars, and form hollow sounding-boards to the keys, which also are of chfferent sizes, according to the note required ; and little drumsticks elicit the music. Kapidity of execution seems much admu-ed among them, and the music is pleasant to the ear. In Angola the Portuguese use the marimba in their dances. Wlien nine speakers had concluded then- orations, Sliinte stood up, and so did all the people. He had maintained true 294 PRIVATE INTERVIEW WLTR SHINTE. Chap. XVI. African dignity of manner all the wliile, bnt my people remarked that he scarcely ever took his eyes off me for a moment. About a thousand people were present, according to my calculation, and three hundred soldiers. The sun had now become hot ; and the scene ended by the Mambari discharging then- guns. 18th. — We were awakened during the night by a message from Shinte, requesting a visit at a very unseasonable hoiu\ As I was just in the sweating stage of an intermittent, and the path to the town lay tlu-ough a wet valley, I declined going. Kolim- bota, who Iviiows then- customs best, urged me to go ; but, inde- pendent of sickness, I hated words of the night and deeds of darkness. I was neither a hyaena nor a mtch." Kolimbota thought that we ought to conform to their wishes in ever5i:liing : I thought we ought to have some choice in the matter as well, which put liim into liigli dudgeon. However, at ten next morning we went, and were led into the courts of Sliinte, the walls of wliich were woven rods, all veiy neat and high. Many trees stood witliin the enclosm-e and afforded a gi-ateful shade. These had been planted, for we saw some recently put in, with grass wound round the trunk to protect them from the sun. The otherwise waste corners of the streets were planted with sugar- cane and bananas, which spread their large light leaves over the walls. The Ficus indica tree, under which we now sat, had very large leaves, but showed its relationship to the Indian banian by send- iDg down shoots towards the ground. Sliinte soon came, and aj)peared a man of uj^wards of fifty-five years of age, of frank and open countenance, and about the middle height. He seemed in good humom', and said he had expected yesterday " that a man who came from the gods, would have approached and talked to liim." That had been my own intention in going to the recep- tion, but when we came and saw the formidable preparations, and all his own men keeping at least forty yards off from him, I yielded to the solicitations of my men, and remained by the tree oi3posite to that under which he sat. His remark confirmed my previous belief that a fi-anls:, open, fearless manner is the most winning with all these Africans. I stated the object of my jom-- ney and mission, and to all I advanced the old gentleman clapped his hands in approbation. He replied through a spokes- Chap. XVI. FEETILITY OF SOIL. 295 man ; tlien all the company joined in the response by elappmg of hands too. After the more serious business was over, I asked if he had ever seen a wliite man before. He replied, " Never ; you are the very jfii-st I have seen ^\ith a white skin and straight hair ; your clothing too is different from any we have ever seen." They had been visited by native Portuguese and Mambari only. On learning from some of the people that Sliinte's mouth was bitter for want of tasting ox-flesh," I presented liim mth an ox, to his gxeat dehght ; and as liis country is so well adapted for cattle, I advised him to begin a trade in cows with the Malvo- lolo. He was pleased with the idea ; and when we retm-ned from Loanda, we found that he had profited by the hint, for he had got three, and one of them justified my opinion of the coun- try, for it was more like a prize heifer for fatness than any we had seen in Africa. He soon afterwards sent us a basket of green maize boiled, another of manioc-meal, and a small fowl. The maize shows by its size the fertility of the black soil of all the valleys here, and so does the manioc, though no manure is ever appHed. We saw manioc attain a height of six feet and upwards, and this is a plant wliich reqmres the very best soil. Dm-ing tliis time Maneiilio had been extremely busy with all her people in getting up a very pretty hut and com-t-yard, to be, as she said, her residence always when white men were brought by her along the same path. When she heard that we had given an ox to her uncle, she came forward to us ^\'itli the an of one ^yi'onged, and explained that " Tliis white man belonged to her ; she had brought him here, and therefore the ox was hers, not Shinte's." She ordered her men to bring it, got it slaughtered by them, and presented her uncle \sdth a leg only. Sliinte did not seem at all annoyed at the occmTcnce. IQth — I was awakened at an early hom- by a messenger fr'om Shuite, but the thii'st of a raging fever bemg just assuaged, by the bm*sting forth of a copious pei'spnation, I decKned going for a few hom's. Violent action of the heart all the way to the to^m, did not predispose me to be patient ^vith the delay which then occm-red, probably on account of the divination being unfa- vourable : " They could not find Shinte." WTien I returned to 296 CONVERSATION TOTH SHINTE. .Chap. XVI. bed, another message was received, " Sliiiite wished to say all he had to tell me at once." This was too tempting an offer, so we went ; and he had a fowl ready in his hand to present, also a basket of manioc-meal, and a calabash of mead. Eeferring to the con- stantly recm-ring attacks of fever, he remarked that it was the only thing which would prevent a successful issue to my journey, for he had men to guide me who knew all the paths wliich led to the wliite men. He had himself travelled far when a young man. On asking what he would recommend for the fever, "Drink plenty of the mead, and, as it gets in, it will clrive the fever out." It was rather strong, and I suspect he liked tlie remedy pretty well, even though he had no fever. He had always been a friend to Sebituane, and, now that his son Sekeletu was in his place, Shinte was not merely a Iriend but a father to him ; and if a son asks a favour the father must give it. He was highly pleased with the large calabashes of clarified butter and fat, which Sekeletu had sent liim, and wished to detain Kolimbota, that he might send a present back to Sekeletu by his hands. This pro- position we afterwards discovered was Kolimbota's own., as he had heard so much about the ferocity of the tribes thi'ough which we were to pass, that he wished to save liis skin. It mil be seen further on, that he was the only one of our party who retm-ned with a wound. We were particularly struck, in passing through the village, with the punctiliousness of manners shown by the Balonda. Tlie inferiors, on meeting then- superiors in the street, at once di'op on their knees and rub dust on then- arms and chest ; they continue the salutation of clapping the hands until the great ones have passed. Sambanza knelt down in tliis manner, till the son of Shinte had passed him. We several times saw the woman who occupies the office of drawer of water for Shinte ; she rings a bell as she passes along to give warning to all to keep out of her way ; it would be a grave offence for any one to come near her, and exercise an evil influence by his presence on the di-ink of the chief. I suspect that offences of the slightest character among the poor, are made the pretext for selling them or theu- childi-en to the Mambari. A young man of Lobale had fled into the country of Shinte, and located himself without showing himself to the chief. This was ( 'iiAr. XYI. KIDNAPPING. 297 considered an offence sufiicient to warrant his being seized and offered for sale wliile we were there. He had not reported him- self, so they did not know the reason of his running away from his own chief, and that chief might accuse them of receiving a criminal. It was curious to notice the effect of the slave-trade in blunting the moral susceptibility : no chief in the south would treat a fugitive in this way. My men were horrified at the act, even though old Shinte and his council had some show of reason on their side ; and both the Barotse and the Makololo declared that, if the Balonda only knew of the policy pursued by them to fugitives, but 'few of the discontented would remain long with Shinte. My men excited the wonder of his people, by stating that every one of them had one cow at least in liis possession. Another incident, which occurred wliile Ave were here,^ may be mentioned, as of a character totally unknown in the south. Two children, of seven and eight years old, went out to collect firewood a short distance from then- parents' home, A\iiich was a quarter of a mile from the village, and were kidnapped ; the distracted parents could not find a trace of them. Tliis hap- pened so close to the town, where there are no beasts of prey, that we suspect some of the high men of Sliinte's court were the guilty parties ; they can sell them by night. The Mambari erect large huts of a square shape to stow these stolen ones in ; they are well fed, but aired by night only. The frequent kid- napping from outlying hamlets explains the stockades we saw around them; the parents have no redress, for even Shinte liimself seems fond of working in the dark. One night he sent for me, though I always stated I liked all my dealings to be aboveboard. When I came he presented me with a slave-girl of about ten years old ; he said he had always been in the habit of presenting his visitors with a child. On my thanking liim, and saying that I thought it wrong to take away children from their parents, that I wished liim to give up this system alto- gether, and trade in cattle, ivory, and bees'-wax, he urged that she was " to be a cliild " to bring me water, and that a great man ought to have a child for the purpose, yet I had none. As I replied that I had four cliildi-en, and should be very sorry if my chief were to take my little gui and give her away, and that I would prefer tliis child to remain and carry water for her oto 298 MAGIC LAXTEEX. Chap. XYI. motlier, he tliouglit I was dissatisfied \yitli her size, and sent for one a head taller ; after many explanations of our abhorrence of slavery, and how displeasing it must be to God to see his chikben selling one another, and giving each other so much grief as this child's mother must feel, I declined her also. If I could have taken her into my family for the purpose of instruc- tion, and then returned her as a free woman, according to a promise I should have made to the parents, I might have done so ; but to take her away, and probably never be able to secure her return, would have produced no good effect on the minds of the Balonda ; they would not then have seen efidence of our hatred to slaveiy, and the kind attentions of my friends woidd, as it almost always does in similar cases, have turned the poor tiling's head. Tlie difference in position between them and us is as great as between the lowest and highest in England, and we know the effects of sudden elevation on wiser heads than hers, whose owners have not been born to it. Sliinte was most anxious to see the pictures of the magic lantern, but fever had so weakening an effect, and I had such violent action of the heart, with buzzing in the ears, that I could not go for several days ; Avhen I did go for the purpose, he had his principal men and the same crowd of court beauties near him as at the recej^tion. The first picture exliibited was Abra- ham about to slaughter liis son Isaac ; it was shown as large as life, and the uplifted knife was in the act of striking the lad ; the Balonda men remarked that the picture was much more Kke a god than the tilings of wood or clay they worsliipped. I explained that this man was the first of a race to whom God had given the Bible we now held, and that among his children our Saviour appeared. The ladies listened with silent awe ; but, when I moved the sKde, the uplifted dagger moving towards them, they thought it was to be sheathed in theii* bodies instead of Isaac's. " Mother ! mother ! " all shouted at once, and off they rushed helter-skelter, tumbling pell-mell over each other, and over the little idol-huts and tobacco-bushes : Ave could not get one of them back again. Shinte, however, sat bravely through the whole, and afterwards examined the instrument Avith interest. An explanation was alAA^ays added after each time of showing its powers, so that no one should imagine there Chap. XYI. DELAY— HEAVY EAINS. 299 \vas aught supernatural in it ; and had Mr. Murray, who kindly brought it from England, seen its popularity among both Mako- lolo and Balonda, he would have been gratified with the direc- tion liis generosity then took. It was the only mode of instruction I was ever pressed to repeat. The people came long- distances, for the express purpose of seeing the objects and hearing the explanations. One cannot get away quickly from these chiefs, they like to have the honom- of strangers residing in their villages ; here we had an additional cause of delay in frequent rains — twenty-four hours never elapsed without heavy showers ; everything is affected by the dampness : surgical instruments become all rusty, clothing mildewed, and shoes mouldy ; my little tent was now so rotten and so full of small holes, that every smart shower caused a fine mist to descend on my blanket, and made me fain to cover the head with it. Heavy dews lay on everything in the morning, even inside the tent ; there is only a short time of sunshine in the afternoon, and even that is so interrupted by thunder-showers that we cannot dry our beddmg. The winds coming from the north, always bring heavy clouds and rain ; in the south, the only heavy rains noticed are those wliicli come from the north-east or east. The thermometer falls as low as 72^ when there is no sunsliine, though, when the weather is fair, the protected thermometer generally rises as high as 82°, even in the mornings and evenings. 24^^. — We expected to have started to-day, but Sambanza, who had been sent off early in the morning for guides, returned at midday without them, and drunk. This was the first case of real babbling intoxication we had seen in this region. The boyaloa, or beer of the country, has more of a stupifying than excitmg nature ; hence the beer-bibbers are gTcat sleepers ; they may frequently be seen lying on their faces sound asleep. This peculiarity of posture was ascribed, by no less an authority than Aristotle, to wine, wliile those who were sent asleep by beer were believed ' ' to lie upon their backs." Sambanza had got into a state of inebriation from indulging in mead, similar to that wliich Sliinte presented to us, which is much more powerful than boyaloa. As far as we could collect from his mcoherent sentences, Sliinte had said, the rain was too 300 SHINTE'S LAST PROOF OF FRIENDSHIP. Chap. XVI. heavy for our departm-e, and the giiides still required time for preparation. Shinte liiniself was busy getting some meal ready for my use in the journey. As it rained nearly all day, it was no sacrifice to submit to his advice and remain. Sambanza staggered to Manenko's hut ; she, however, who had never pro- mised " to love, honour, and obey him," had not been nursing her ^^Tath to keep it warm," so she coolly bundled him into the hut, and put liim to bed. As the last proof of friendship, Slunte came into my tent, though it could scarcely contain more than one person, looked at all the cm-iosities, the quicksilver, the looking-glass, books, hah'-brushes, comb, watch, &c. &c., with the greatest interest; then closing the tent, so that none of his own people might Shell, and ornament made of its end. Chap. XVI. FAREWELL TO SHINTE. 301 see tlie extravagance of which he was about to le guilty, he (h-ew out from his clotliing a string of beads, and the end of a conical shell, which is considered, in regions far from the sea, of as great value as the Lord Mayor's badge is in London. He hung it round my neck, and said, There, now you have a proof of my friendship." My men informed me, that these shells are so highly valued in this quarter, as evidences of distinction, that for two of them a slave might be bought, and five would be considered a handsome price for an elephant's tusk wwth ten pounds. At cm* last interview old Shinte pointed out our principal guide, Intemese, a man about fifty, who was, he said, ordered to remain by us till we should reach the sea ; that I had now left Sekeletu far behind, and must henceforth look to Shinte alone for aid, and that it would always be most cheerfully rendered. This was only a polite way of expressing his wishes for my success. It was the good words only of the guides which were to aid me from the next chief, Katema, on to the sea ; they were to tm*n back on reaching liim, but he gave a good supply of food for the journey before us, and, after mentioning as a reason for letting us go even now, that no one could say we had been driven away from the town, since we had been several days with him, he gave a most hearty salutation, and we parted with the wish that God might bless him. 302 MANIOC-aARDENS. GHAPTEE XVIL Leave Shinte — Manioc-gardens — Mode of preparing the poisonous kind — Its general use — Presents of food — Punctiliousness of the Balonda — Their idols and su^Derstition — Dress of the Balonda — Villages beyond Lonaje — Cazemhe — Our guides and the Makololo — Night rains — In- quiries for English cotton goods — Intemese's fiction — Visit from an old man — Theft — Industry of our guide — Loss of pontoon — Plains covered Avith water — Affection of the Balonda for their mothers — A night on an island — The grass on the plains — Source of the rivers — Loan of the roofs of huts — A halt — Fertility of the country through which the Lokalueje flows — Omnivorous fish — Natives' modes of catching them — The village of a half-brother of Katema, his speech and present — Our guide's per- versity — Mozenkwa's pleasant home and family — Clear water of the flooded rivers — A messenger from Katema — Quendende's village, his kindness — Crop of wool — Meet people from the town of Matiamvo — Fire- side talk — Matiamvo's character and conduct — Presentation at Katema's court, his present, good sense, and appearance — Interview on the foUoAving day — Cattle — A feast and a Makololo dance — Arrest of a fugitive — Dignified old courtier — Katema's lax government — Cold wind from the north — Canaries and other singing birds — Spiders, their nests and webs — Lake Dilolo — Tradition — Sagacity of ants. 2Qth. — Leaving Shinte, witli eight of his men to aid in carry- ing our luggage, we passed, in a northerly direction, down the lovely valley on which the town stands, then went a little to the west through pretty open forest, and slept at a village of Balonda. In the morning we had a fine range of green liills called Saloi'sho on our right, and were informed that they were rather thicldy inhabited by the people of Shinte, who worked in u'on, the ore of which abounds in these hills. The country through which we passed, possessed the same general character of flatness and forest that we noticed before. The soil is dark, with a tinge of red ; in some places it might be called red; and appeared very fertile. Every valley con- tained villages of twenty or thirty huts, with gardens of manioc, which here is looked upon as the staff of hfe. Very little labour is required for its cultivation. The earth is drawn up into oblong beds, about three feet broad and one in height, and in CpAP. XVII: Chap. XTII. ^lAXIOC-PORRIDGE. 303 these are planted pieces of the manioc-stalk, at four feet apart. A crop of beans, or ground-nuts, is sown between them, and when these are reaped, the land around the manioc is cleared of weeds. In from ten to eighteen months after planting, accord- ing to the quality of the soil, the roots are fit for food. There is no necessity for reaping soon, as the roots do not become bitter and cby until after three years. AMien a woman takes up the roots, she thrusts a piece or two of the upper stalks into the hole she has made, draws back the soil, and a new crop is thereby begun. The plant grows to a height of six feet, and every part of it is useful: the leaves may be cooked as a vegetable. The roots are from three to four inches in diameter, and from twelve to eighteen inches long. There are two varieties of the manioc or cassava — one sweet and wholsome, the other bitter and containing poison, but much more speedy in its gro^vth than the former. This last property causes its perpetuation. When we reached the village of Kapende, on the banks of the ri^mlet Lonaje, we ^^'ere presented with so much of the poisonous kind, that we were obliged to leave it. To get rid of the poison the people place it fom- days in a pool of water. It then becomes partially decomposed, and is taken out, stripped of its skin, and exposed to the sun. When dried, it is easily pounded into fine wliite meal, closely resem- bling starch, which has either a Little of the peculiar taste arising from decomposition, or no more flavour than starch. When intended to be used as food, this meal is stirred into boiling water : they put as much in as can be moistened, one man holding the vessel and the other stiiTing the porridge with all his might. This is the common mess of the country. Though hungry, we could just manage to swallow it with the aid of a little honey, which I shared with my men as long as it lasted. It is very imsavoury (Scottice wersh) ; and no matter how much one may eat, two hom's afterwards he is as hungry as ever. ^Mien less meal is employed, the mess is exactly like a basin of starch in the hands of a laundi-ess ; and if the starch were made from diseased potatoes, some idea might be formed of the Balonda porridge, which hunger alone forced us to eat. Santiu-u forbade his nobles to eat it, as it caused coughing and expectoration. 30i PUXCTILIOUSXESS OF THE BALOXDA. Chap. XYH. Our cliief guide, Iiitemese, sent orders to all tlie ^dllages around our route that Sliinte's friends must have abundance of provisions. Our progress was impeded by the time requisite for communicating the cliief's desu-e, and consequent preparation of meal. We received far more food from Shinte's people than from himself. Kapende, for instance, presented two large baskets of meal, three of manioc-roots steeped and dried in the sun and ready to be converted into flour, three fowls and seven eggs, with three smoke-dried fishes ; and others gave with similar liberality. I gave to the headmen small bunches of my stock of beads, with an apology that we were now on om- way to the market for these goods. The present was always politely received. We had an opjDortunity of obsendng that our guides had much more etiquette than any of the tribes farther south. They gave us food, but would not partake of it when we had cooked it ; nor would they eat their own food in our presence. When it was cooked they retired into a thicket, and ate their porridge ; then all stood up, and clapped their hands, and praised Intemese for it. The Makololo, who are accustomed to the most free and easy manners, held out handfuls of what they had cooked to any of the Balonda near, but they refused to taste. They are very punctilious in their manners to each other. Each hut has its own fii'e, and when it goes out they make it afresh for themselves rather than take it from a neighbour. I believe much of this arises from superstitious fears. In the deep, dark forests near each village, as afready mentioned, you see idols intended to represent the human head or a lion, or a crooked stick smeared with mechcine, or simply a small pot of medicine in a little shed, or miniature huts with little mounds of earth in them. But in the darker recesses we meet vdih human faces cut in the bark of trees, the outlines of which, with the beards, closely resemble those seen on Egyptian monuments. Frequent cuts are made on the trees all along the paths, and offerings of small pieces of manioc-roots, or ears of maize, are ]3laced on branches. There are also to be seen every few miles heaps of sticks, which are treated in cairn fashion, by every one tin-owing a small branch to the heap in passing ; or a few sticks are placed on the path, and each passer-by turns from his course, and forms a sudden bend in the road to one side. It seems as if their minds were Chap. XYII. VILLAGES BEYOND THE LONAJE. 305 ever in doubt and dread in these gloomy recesses of the forest, and that they were striving to propitiate, by their offerings, some sujDerior beings residmg there. The dress of the Balonda men consists of the softened skins of small animals, as the jackal or wild cat, hung before and beliind from a girdle round the loins. The dress of the women is of a nondescript character; but they were not immodest. They stood before us as perfectly unconscious of any indecorum as we could be with our clothes on. But, wliile ignorant of their own deficiency, they could not maintain their gravity at the sight of the nudity of my men beliind. Much to the annoyance of my companions, the young ghls laughed outright whenever their backs were turned to' them. After crossing the Lonaje, we came to some pretty villages, embowered, as the negro villages usually are, in bananas, shrubs, and manioc, and near the banks of the Leeba we formed our encampment in a nest of serpents, one of which bit one of our men, but the wound was harmless. The people of the sur- rounding villages presented us with large quantities of food, in obedience to the mandate of Sliinte, without expecting any equi- valent. One village had lately been transferred hither from the country of Matiamvo. They, of com-se, continue to acknowledge him as paramount chief; but the frequent instances which occm- of people changing from one part of the country to another, show that the great cliiefs possess only a limited power. The only peculiarity we obserA'ed in these people is the habit of plaitmg the beard into a threefold cord. The town of the Balonda chief, Cazembe, was pointed out to us as l}^g to the N.E. and by E. from the tovm of Shinte, and great numbers of people in this quarter have gone thither for the purpose of pm-chasing copper anklets, made at Cazembe's, and report the distance to be about five days' journey. I made inquiries of some of the oldest inhabitants of the villages at which we were staying, respecting the visit of Pereira and Lacerda to that to™. An old grey-headed man replied that they had often heard of white men before, but never had seen one, and added that one had come to Cazembe when our informant was young, and returned again without entering this part of the country. The people of Cazembe are Balonda or Baloi, and X 306 IsIGHT-EAIXS. Chap. XYII. liis country has been termed Londa, Lunda, or Lui, by tlie Portuguese. It was always difficult to get our guides to move away from a place. With the authority of the chief, they felt as comfortable as king's messengers coidd, and were not disposed to forego the pleasure of living at free quarters. My Makololo fr-iends were but ill drilled as yet ; and since they had never left their own countiy before, except for pm-poses of plunder, they did not take readily to the peacefril system we now meant to follow. They either sj3oke too imperiously to strangers, or, when reproved for that, were disposed to follow the dictation of every one we met. WTien Intemese, our guide, refused to stir towards the Leeba on the 31st of January, they would make no effort to induce him to go ; but, having ordered them to get ready, Intemese saw the preparations, and soon followed the example. It took us about fom- hours to cross the Leeba, which is considerably smaller here than where we left it, — indeed, only about a hundred yards wide. It has the same dark mossy hue. The villagers lent us canoes to effect om* passage ; and, having gone to a vil- lage about two miles beyond the river, I had the satisfaction of getting observations for both longitude and latitude — for the former, the distance between Saturn and the Moon, and for the latter a meridian altitude of Canopus. Long. 22° 57' E. ; lat. 12° 6' 6" S. These were the only opportunities I had of ascertaining my whereabouts in this part of Londa. Again and again did I take out the instruments, and, just as all was right, the stars would be suddenly obscured by clouds. I had never observed so great an amount of cloudiness in any part of the south coimtiy ; and as for the rains, I believe that years at Kolobeng would not have made my little tent so rotten and thin as one month had done in Londa, I never observed ui the south, the heavy night and early morning rains we had in this country. They often con- tinued all night, then became heavier about an hour before dawn. Or if fair duruig the night, as day drew nigh, an ex- tremely heavy, still, pouring raiu set iu without warning. Five out of every six days we had this pouring rain, at or near break of day, for months together ; and it soon beat my tent so thin, that a mist fell through on my face and made everything damp. Chap. XVII. INTEMESE'S FICTIOX— THEFT. 307 Tlie rains weve occasionally, but not always, accompanied with Yery loud tliunder. February 1st. — This day we had a fine view of two hills called Pii-i (Peeri), meaning two," on the side of the river we had left. The country there is named Mokwankwa. And there Intemese informed us one of Shinte's childi-en was born, when he w^as in his 23rogress southwards from the country of Matiamvo. This part of the country, w^oidd thus seem not to have been inhabited by the people of Shinte, at any very remote period. He told me himself that he had come into his present country by command of Matiamvo. Here we were sm-prised to hear English cotton cloth much more eagerly mqiured after than beads and ornaments. They are more in need of clotliing than the Bechuana tribes living adjacent to the Kalahari Desert, who have plenty of skins for the purpose. Animals of all kinds are rare here, and a very small piece of calico is of great value. In the midst of the heavy rain, which continued all the morn- ing, Intemese sent to say he was laid up with pains in the stomach, and must not be disturbed ; but when it cleared up, about eleven, I saw our friend walking off to the village, and talking with a very loud voice. On reproaching him for telling an untruth, he turned it off with a laugh, by saying he really had a complaint in his stomach, which I might cm-e by slaughtering one of the oxen and allo\\dng him to eat beef. He was evidently revelling in the abundance of good food the chiefs orders brought us. And he did not feel the shame I did, when I gave a few beads only, in return for large baskets of meal. A very old man visited us here with a present of maize : like the others he had never before seen a white man, and, when con- versing with liim, some of the young men remarked that they were the true ancients, for they had now seen more wonderful things than their forefathers. One of Intemese's men stole a fowl given me by the lady of the village. \A^en charged vdth. the theft, every one of Inte- mese's party vociferated his innocence, and indignation at being suspected ; continuing then* loud asseverations and gesticulations for some minutes. One of my men, Loyanke, went off to the vil- lage, brought the lady who had presented the fowl to identify it,. X 2 308 PLAINS COVERED WLTK WATEE. Chap. XYII. and then pointed to the hut in wliich it was hidden. The Balonda collected round him, evincing great wrath ; but Loyanke seized his battleaxe in the proper manner for striking, and, placing him- self on a little hillock, soon made them moderate their tones. Intemese then called on me to send one of my people to search the huts, if I suspected his people. The man sent soon found it, and brought it out, to the confusion of Intemese and the laughter of our party. This incident is mentioned to show that the greater superstition which exists here, does not lead to the practice of the virtues. We never met an instance like this, of theft from a white man among the Makololo, though they complain of the Makalaka as addicted to pilfering. The honesty of the Bak- wains has been already noticed. Probably the estimation in which I was held as a public benefactor, in wliich character I was not yet kno^Ti to the Balonda, may account for the sacredness A\ith wliich my property was always treated before. But other inci- dents which hajipened subsequently, showed, as well as this, that idolaters are not so vu'tuous as those who have no idols. As the people on the banks of the Leeba were the last of Sliinte's tribe over which Intemese had power, he was naturally anxious to remain as long as possible. He was not idle, but made a large wooden mortar and pestle for his wife during our journey. He also carved many wooden spoons and a bowl ; then commenced a basket ; but as what he considered good Li^dng was anytliing but agreeable to us, who had been accustomed to milk and maize, we went forward on the 2nd ^^ithout him. He soon followed, but left our pontoon, saying it would be brought by the head man of the Adllage. This was a great loss, as we afterwards found ; it remained at tliis village more than a year, and when we returned, a mouse had eaten a hole in it. We entered on an extensive plain beyond the Leeba, at least twenty miles broad, and covered mth water, ankle deep in the shallowest parts. AVe deviated somewhat from our N.W. com-se by the dii*ection of Intemese, and kept the liills Piri nearly on our right dm-ing a great part of the first day, in order to avoid the still more deeply flooded plains of Lobale (Luval ?) on the west. These, accorcUng to Intemese, are at present impassable on account of being thigh deep. The plains are so perfectly level that rain-water, which this was, stands upon them £or Chap. XVII. LOVE OF BALONDA FOR THEIR MOTHERS. 809 months together. They were not flooded by the Leeba, for that was still far wdthin its^ banks. Here and there, dotted over the surface, are little islands, on which grow stunted date-bushes and scraggy trees. The plains themselves are covered vdih a thick sward of grass, which conceals the water, and makes the flats appear like great pale yellow-coloured prairie-lands, vdih. a clear horizon, except where interrupted here and there by trees. The clear rain-water must have stood some time among the grass, for great numbers of lotus-flowers were seen in full blow ; and the nms of water tortoises and crabs were observed ; other animals also, which prey on the fish that find then' way to the plains. The continual splashing of the oxen keeps the feet of the rider constantly wet, and my men complain of the perpetual moisture of the paths by which we have travelled in Londa, as softening their homy soles. The only information we can glean is fi'om Intemese, who points out the diflerent localities as we pass along, and among the rest Mokala a Mama," liis " mama's home." It was interesting to hear this tall grey-headed man recall the memories of boyhood. All the Makalaka cliildi*en cleave to the mother in cases of separation, or removal from one part of the country to another. This love for mothers does not argue superior morality in other respects, or else Intemese has for- gotten any njunctions his mama may have given him not to tell lies. The respect, however, vdth. which he spoke of her, was quite characteristic of liis race. The Bechuanas, on the con- trar}^, care nothing for their mothers, but chng to then- fathers, especially if they have any expectation of becoming heu's to their cattle. Our Bakwain guide to the lake, Eachosi, told me that his mother lived in the country of Sebituane, but, though a good specimen of the Bechuanas, he laughed at the idea of going so far as from the Lake Ngami to the Chobe, merely for the purpose of seeing her. Had he been one of the Makalaka, he never would have parted from her. We made our beds on one of the islands, and were wretchedly supplied with firewood. The booths constructed by the men were but Sony shelter, for the rain pom-ed down without intermission till mid-day. There is no drainage for the prodigious masses of water on these plains, except slow percolation into the different feeders of the Leeba, and into that river itself. The quantity of 310 GRASS OF THE PLAINS. Chap. XTU. vegetation has prevented the country from becommg furrowed by many rmilets or " nullahs." Were it not so remarkably flat, the drainage must have been effected by torrents, even in spite of the matted vegetation. That these extensive plains are covered with grasses only, and the little islands vdth. but scraggy trees, may be accounted for by the fact, observable everywhere in this comitry, that, where water stands for any length of time, trees cannot live. The want of sj)eedy drainage destroys them, and injures the gro\vth of those that are planted on the islands, for they have no depth of earth not subjected to the souring influence of the stagnant water. The plains of Lobale, to the west of these, are said to be much more extensive than any we saw, and their vegetation possesses similar peculiarities. When the' stagnant rain-water has all soaked in, as must happen during the months in which there is no rain, travellers are even put to straits for want of water. This is stated on native testimony ; but I can very well believe that level plains, in which neither wells nor gullies are met with, may, after the diy season, present the opposite ex- treme to what we witnessed. Water, however, could always be got by digging, a proof of wliicli we had on om- return when brought to a stand on this very plain by severe fever : about twelve miles from the Kasai my men dug dovm a few feet, and found an abundant supply ; and we saw on one of the islands the garden of a man who, in the dry season, had drunk water from a well in like manner. Plains like these cannot be inha- bited wliile the present system of cultivation lasts. The popu- lation is not yet so very large as to need them. They find garden-groimd enough on the gentle slopes at the sides of the rivulets, and possess no cattle to eat off the millions of acres of fine hay we were now wading through. Any one who has visited the Cape colony, will understand me when I say that these immense crops resemble so^ti grasses more than the tufty vegetation of the south. I would here request the particular attention of the reader to the phenomena the§e periodically deluged plains present, be- cause they have a most important bearing on the physical geo- graphy of a very large portion of this country. The plains of Lobale, to the west of this, give rise to a great many streams, Chap. XVII. LOAN OF EOOF&— A HALT. 311 which unite, and form the deep, never-failing Chobe. Similar extensive flats give birth to the Loeti and Kasai, and, as we shall see further on, all the rivers of an extensive region owe their origin to oozing bogs, and not to fountains. \Mien released from our island by the rain ceasing, we marched on, till we came to a ridge of dry inhabited land in the N.W. The inhabitants, according to custom, lent us the roofs of some huts to save the men the trouble of booth-making. I suspect that the story in Park's * Travels,' of the men lifting up the hut to place it on the lion, referred to the roof only. We leave them for the villagers to replace at their leisure. Xo payment is expected for the use of them. By night it rained so copiously, that all our beds were flooded from below ; and from this time forth we always made a furrow round each booth, and used the earth to raise om- sleeping-places. My men turned out to work in the wet most T\illingly ; indeed they always did. I could not but contrast their conduct with that of Intemese. He was thoroughly imbued with the slave spmt, and lied on all occasions ^^ithout compunction. Untrutlifulness is a sort of refuge for the weak and opjDressed. We expected to move on the 4th, but he declared that we were so near Katema's, if we did not send forward to apprise that chief of our approach, he would certainly impose a fine. It rained the whole day, so we were reconciled to the delay ; but on Sunday, the 5th, he let us know that we were still two days distant from Katema. We unfortunately could not manage without him, for the country was so deluged, we should have been brought to a halt before we went many miles, by some deep valley, every one of which was full of water. Intemese continued to plait his basket with all his might, and would not come to our religious service. He seemed to be afraid of om- incantations ; but was always merry and jocular. ^th. — Soon after starting we crossed a branch of the Loka- lueje by means of a canoe, and in the afternoon passed over the main stream by a like conveyance. The former, as is the case "SA^ith all branches of rivers in this country, is called nuana Kalu- eje (child of the Kalueje). Hippopotami exist in the Lokalueje, so it may be inferred to be perennial, as the inhabitants asserted. We cannot judge of the size of the stream from what we now 312 FEETILE COUisTRY— OMXIYOEOUS FISH. Chap. XVll. saw. It had about forty yards of deep fast-flowing water, but probably not more than half that amount in the dry season. Besides these, we crossed numerous feeders in om- N.N.W. course, and, there being no canoes, got frequently wet in the course of the day. The oxen in some places had their heads only above water, and the stream flowing over their backs wetted our blankets, which we used as saddles. The arm-pit was the only safe spot for carrymg the watch, for there it was preserved from rains above and waters below. The men on foot crossed these gullies holding up their burdens at arms' length. The Lokalueje wmds from north-east to south-west into the Leeba. The country adjacent to its banks is extremely fine and fertile, with here and there patches of forest or clumps of mag- nificent trees. The villagers through whose gardens we passed, contiuue to sow and reap all the year round. The grains, as maize, lotsa {Pennisetum typhoideum), lokesh or millet, are to be seen at all stages of their growth — some just ripe, while at tliis time the Makololo crops are not half grown. My com- panions, who have a good idea of the different qualities of soils, expressed the greatest admu-ation of the agTicultural capabihties of the whole of Londa, and here they were loud in their praises of the pasturage. They have an accurate idea of the varieties of grasses best adapted for different kinds of stock, and lament because here there are no cows to feed off the rich gi-een crop, wliich at this time imparts special beauty to the landscape. Great numbers of the omnivorous feeding fish, Glanis siluris, or mosala, spread themselves over the flooded plains, and, as the waters retire, try to find their way back again to the rivers. The Balonda make earthen dykes and hedges across the outlets of the retreating waters, leaving only small spaces through wliich the chief part of the water flows. In these open spaces they plant creels, similar in shape to our own, into which the fish can enter, but cannot return. They secure large quantities of fish in this way, which, when smoke-dried, make a good relish for their otherwise insipid food. They use also a weir of mats made of reeds sewed together, with but half an inch between each. Open spaces are left for the insertion of the creels as before. In still water, a fish-trap is employed of the same shape and Chap. XYII. THE GUIDE'S PEEYERSITY. 313 l)lan as tlie common round vdre mouse-trap, which has an open- ing surrounded with wu-es pointing inwards. Tliis is made of reeds and supple wands, and food is placed inside to attract the fish. Besides these means of catching fish, they use a hook of iron ^nthout a barb ; the point is bent inwards instead, so as not to allow the fish to escape. Nets are not so common as in the Zouga and Leeambye, but they kiU large quantities of fishes by means of the bruised leaves of a slirub, which may be seen planted beside every village m the coimtr}". On the 7th we came to the village of Soana Molopo, a half- brother of Katema, a few miles beyond the Lokalueje. When we went to visit him, we found him sitting, with about one hun- dred men. He called on Intemese to give some account of us, though no. doubt it had been done in private before. He then pronounced the following sentences : — " The journey of the wliite man is very proper, but Shinte has disturbed us by showing the path to the Makololo who accompany him. He ought to have taken them tln-ough the country without showing them the towns. We are afraid of the Makololo." He then gave us a handsome present of food, and seemed perplexed by my sitting down familiarly, and gi^'ing him a few of our ideas. AMien we left, Intemese continued busily imparting an account of all we had given to Shinte and Masiko, and instilling the hope, that Soana Molopo might obtain as much as they had received. Ac- cordingly, when we expected to move on the morning of the 8th, we got some hints about the ox which Soana Molopo ex- pected to eat, but we recommended him to get the breed of cattle for himself, seeing liis country was so well adapted for rearing stock. Intemese also refused to move; he, moreover, tried to frighten us into parting with an ox, by saying that Soana Molopo would send forward a message that we were a marauding party, but we packed up and went on without him. We did not absolutely need him, but he was useful in preventing the inhabitants of secluded villages from betaking themselves to flight. We ^^shed to be on good terms with all, and therefore put up mth our guide's peccadilloes. His good word respecting us had considerable influence, and he was always asked if we had behaved ourselves like men on the way. The Makololo are 314 MOZDTKWA AXD HIS FAMILY. Chap. XVII. viewed as great savages, but Iiitemese eoiild not justly look with scorn on them, for he has the mark of a large gash on liis arm, got in fighting ; and he would never tell the cause of battle, but boasted of his powers as the Makololo do, till asked about a scar on his back, betokening anji^hing but bravery. Intemese was useful in cases like that of Monday, when we came upon a whole village in a forest enjoying their noonday naj). Our sudden appearance in their midst so terrified them, that one woman nearly went into convulsions from fear. AMien they saw and heard Intemese, their terror subsided. As usual, we were caught by rains after lea\'ing Soana Mo- lopo's, and made our booths at the house of MozinkT\-a, a most intelligent and friendly man belonging to Katema. He had a fine large garden in cultivation, and well hedged round. He had made the walls of his compound, or courtj^ard, of branches of the banian, which, taking root, had grown to be a live hedge of that tree. Mozinkwa's wife had cotton gromng all round her premises, and several plants used as relishes to the insipid porridge of the country. She cultivated also the common castor- oil plant, and a larger slu'ub {Jatropha curcas), which also yields a purgative oil. Here, however, the oil is used for anointing the heads and bodies alone. We saw in her garden likewise the Indian bringalls, yams, and sweet potatoes. Several trees were planted in the middle of the yard, and in the deep shade they gave, stood the huts of his fine family. His cliildren, all by one mother, very black but comely to view, were the finest negro family I ever saw. We were much pleased with the frank friendship and liberality of this man and his wife. She asked me to bring her a cloth from the wliite man's country, but, when we returned, poor Mozinkwa's T\ife was in her grave, and he, as is the custom, had abandoned trees, garden, and huts to ruin. They cannot live on a spot where a favourite wife has died, pro- bably because unable to bear the remembrance of the happy times they have spent there, or afraid to remain in a spot where death has once visited the establishment. If ever the place is re-visited, it is to pray to her, or make some offering. This feeling renders any permanent village in the country impossible. We learned from Mozinkwa that Soana Molopo was the elder brother of Katema, but that he was wanting in wisdom; and Chap. XVII. QUENDEXBE'S POLITENESS. 315 Katema, by purchasing cattle and receiving in a kind manner all the fugitives who came to him, had secured the birtlii'ight to himself, so far as influence in the country is concerned. Soana's first address to us did not savour much of African wisdom. Friday, lO^A. — On leaving jMozinkwa's hospitable mansion we crossed another stream, about forty yards wide, in canoes. While this techous process was going on, I was informed that it is called the Mona-Kalueje, or brother of Kalueje, as it flows into that river ; that both the Kalueje and Livoa flow into the Leeba ; and that the Chifumadze, swollen by the Lotembwa, is a feeder of that river also, below the point where we lately crossed it. It may be remarked here, that these rivers were now in flood, and that the water was all perfectly clear. The vegetation on the banks is so thickly planted, that the surface of the earth is not abraded by the torrents. The grass is laid flat, and forms a pro- tection to the banks, which are generally a stiff black loam. The fact of canoes being upon them shows that, though not large, they are not like the southern rivulets, 'svliich dry up during most of the year, and render canoes unnecessary. As we were crossing the river, we were joined by a messenger from Katema, called Shakatwala. This person was a sort of steward or factotum to his chief. Every chief has one attached to his person, and, though generally poor, they are invariably men of great shrewdness and ability. They act the part of mes- sengers on all important occasions, and possess considerable authority in the chief's household. Shakatwala informed us that Katema had not received precise information about us, but if we were peaceably disposed, as he loved strangers, we were to come to his town. We proceeded forthwith, but were turned aside, by the strategy of om- friend Intemese, to the village of Quendende, the father-in-law of Katema. This fine old man was so very polite, that we did not regret being obliged to spend Sunday at his village. He expressed his pleasure at having a share in the honour of a visit as well as Katema ; though it seemed to me that the conferring that pleasure, required something lilvo a pretty good stock of impudence, in leading twenty-seven men through the country, without the means of purchasing food. My men did a little business for themselves in the begging Line ; ^they generally commenced every interview with new villagers 316 CROP OF WOOL. Chap. XYH. by saying, I have come from afar ; give me sometliing to eat." I forbade this at first, believing that, as the Makololo had a bad name, the villagers gave food from fear. But, after some time it was evident that in many cases maize and manioc were given from pure generosity. The first time I came to this conclusion was at the house of Mozinkwa; scarcely any one of my men returned from it without something in liis hand ; and as they protested they had not begged, I asked himself, and found that it was the case, and that he had given spontaneously. In other parts the cliiefs attended to my wants, and the common people gave liberally to my men. I j)resented some of my razors and iron spoons to different headmen, but my men had nothing to give ; yet every one tried to appropriate an individual in each village as " Molekane," or comrade, and the villagers often assented ; so if the reader remembers the molekane system of the Mopato, he may perceive that those who presented food freely would expect the Makololo to treat them in hke manner, should they ever be placed in similar circumstances. Their country too is so fertile that they are in no want of food them- selves; however, their generosity was remarkable; only one woman refused to give some of my men food, but her husband calling out to her to be more liberal, she obeyed, scolding aU the while. In this part of the country, buffaloes, elands, koodoos, and various antelopes are to be found ; but we did not get any, as they are exceedingly wary from being much hunted. We had the same woodland and meadow as before, with here and there pleasant negro villages; and being all in good health, could enjoy the fijie green scenery. Quendende's head was a good specimen of the greater crop of wool with which the negroes of Londa are furnished. The front was parted in the middle, and plaited into two thick rolls, which, falling do^vn behind the ears, reached the shoulders ; the rest was collected into a large knot, which lay on the nape of the neck. As he was an intelligent man, we had much conversation together ; he had just come from attending the funeral of one of his people, and I found that the great amount of drum-beating which takes place on these occasions was with the idea that the Barimo, or spirits, could be drummed to sleep. There is a drum Chap. XVII. MATIAMVO'S CONDUCT. 317 in every village, and we often hear it going from sunset to sun- rise. They seem to look upon the departed as vindictive beings, and I suspect are more influenced by fear than by love. In be- ginning to speak on religious subjects with those who have never heard of Christianity, the great fact of the Son of God having come down from heaven to die for us, is the prominent theme. No fact more striking can be mentioned. " He actually came to men. He himself told us about his Father, and the dwelling- place whither he has gone. AVe have his words in this book, and he really endured punishment in our stead from pure love," &c. If this fails to interest them, nothing else will succeed. We here met with some people just arrived from the town of Matiamvo (Muata ydnvo), who had been sent to announce the death of the late chieftain of that name. Matiamvo is the liere- ditary title — muata meaning lord, or chief. The late Matiamvo seems, from the report of these men, to have been insane, for he is said to have sometimes indulged the whim of running a muck in the town and beheading whomsoever he met, until he had quite a heap of human heads. Matiamvo explained this conduct by saying that his people were too many, and he wanted to dimi- nish them. He had absolute power of life and death. On in- quiring whether human sacrifices were still made, as in the time of Pereira, at Cazembe's, we were informed that these had never been so common as was represented to Pereira, but that it occa- sionally happened, when certain charms were needed by the cliief, that a man was slaughtered for the sake of some part of his body. He added that he hoped the present chief would not act like liis (mad) predecessor, but kill only those who were guilty of witchcraft or theft. These men were very much astonished at the liberty enjoyed by the Makololo ; and when they found that all my people held cattle, we were told that Matiamvo alone had a herd. One very intelligent man among them asked, " If he should make a canoe and take it down the river to the Mako- lolo, would he get a cow for it ? " This question, which my men answered in the affil-mative, was important, as showing the know- ledge of a water communication from the country of Matiamvo to the Makololo ; and the river runs through a fertile country abounding in large timber. If the tribes have intercourse with each other, it exerts a good influence on their chiefs to hear what 318 SUPERSTITIOUS CUSTOMS. Chap. XYII. other tribes tliink of tlieii' deeds. The Makololo have such a bad name on account of theii* perpetual forays, that they have not been known in Londa except as ruthless destroyers. The people in Matiamvo's country submit to much TSTong from their chiefs ; and no voice can be raised against cruelty, because they are afraid to flee elsewhere. We left Quendende's Tillage in company with Quendende him- self, and the principal man of the ambassadors of Matiamvo, and after two or three miles' march to the N.W., came to the ford of the Lotembwa, which flows southwards. A canoe was waiting to ferry us over, but it was very tedious work ; for though the river itself was only eighty yards vride, the whole valley was flooded, and we were obliged to paddle more than half a mile to get free of the water. A fire was lit to warm old Quendende, and enable him to dry his tobacco-leaves. The leaves are taken from the plant, and spread close to the fire, until they are quite dry and crisp ; they are then put into a snuff-box, which, with a little pestle, serves the purpose of a mill to gTind them into powder ; it is then used as snuff. As we sat by the fire the ambassadors communicated then* thoughts freely respecting the customs of their race. When a chief dies, a number of servants are slaughtered with him to form his company in the other world. The Barotse followed the same custom, and this and other usages show them to be genuine negToes, though neither they nor the Balonda resemble closely the typical form of that people. Quen- dende said if he w^ere present on these occasions he would hide his people, so that they might not be slaughtered. As we go north, the people become more bloodily superstitious. We were assured that, if the late Matiamvo took a fancy to anything, such, for instance, as my watch-chain, which was of silver wire, and was a gTcat curiosity, as they had never seen metal plaited before, he would order a whole village to be brought up to buy it from a stranger. "\Mien a slave-trader visited him, he took possession of all his goods ; then, after ten days or a fortnight, he would send out a parly of men to pounce upon some considerable village, and, having killed the head man, would pay for all the goods by selling the inhabitants. This has frequently been the case, and nearly all the visitants he ever had were men of colour. On asking, if Matiamvo did not know he Chap. XYII. PRESENTATION TO KATEMA. 819 Avas a man, and would be judged, in company with those lie destroyed, by a Lord wlio is no respecter of persons ? the am- bassador replied, We do not go up to God, as you do ; we are put into the ground." I could not ascertain that even those who have such a distinct perception of the continued existence of de- parted spmts, had any notion of heaven ; they appear to imagine the souls to be always near the place of sepulture. After crossing the river Lotembwa we travelled about eight miles, and came toKatema's straggling town (lat. 11° 35' 49" S., long. 22° 27' E.). It is more a collection of villages than a town. We were led out about half a mile from the houses, that we might make for ourselves the best lodging we could of the trees and grass, while Intemese Avas taken to Katema to undergo the usual process of pumping, as to om* past conduct and professions. Ka- tema soon afterwards sent a handsome present of food. Next morning we had a formal presentation, and found Katema seated on a sort of throne, with about three hundred men on the ground around, and thirty women, who were said to be his wives, close behind him. The main body of the people were seated in a semicircle, at a distance of fifty yards. Each party had its own head man stationed at a little distance in front, and, when beckoned by the chief, came near him as councillors. Intemese gave our liistory, and Katema placed sixteen large baskets of meal before us, half a dozen fowls, and a dozen eggs, and ex- pressed regret that we had slept hungry — he did not like any stranger to suifer want in his town ; and added, " Go home, and cook and eat, and you will then be in a fit state to speak to me, at an audience I will give you to-morrow." He was busily en- gaged in hearhig the statements of a large body of fine young men who had fled from Kangenke, cliief of Lobale, on account of his selling their relatives to the native Portuguese who fre- quent his country. Katema is a tall man, about forty years of age, and liis head Avas ornamented with a helmet of beads and feathers. He had on a snuff-bromi coat, with a broad band of tinsel down the arms, and carried in his hand a large tail made of the caudal extremities of a number of gnus. This has charms attached to it, and he continued waving it in front of liimself, all the time we were there. He seemed in good spirits, laugliing heartily several times. This is a good sign, for a man who shakes 320 DsTERA^EW A^^TH KATEMA. Chap. XYII. his sides with mn-th, is seldom difficult to deal >Yith. Wlien we rose to take leave, all rose with us, as at Shinte's. Eeturning next morning, Katema addressed me thus — '*I am the great Moene (lord) Katema, the fellow of Matiamvo. There is no one in this country equal to Matiamvo and me. I have always lived here, and my forefathers too. There is the house in which my father lived. You found no human skulls near the place where you are encamped. I never killed any of the traders ; they all come to me. I am the great Moene Katema, of whom you have heard." He looked as if he had fallen asleep tipsy, and dreamed of his gTeatness. On explain- ing my objects to him, he promptly pointed out three men who would be om- guides, and explained that the N.W. path was the most dhect, and that by which all traders came, but that the water at present standing on the plains would reach up to the loins ; he would therefore send us by a more northerly route, which no trader had yet traversed. Tliis was more suited to our \nshes, for we never found a path safe that had been trodden by slave-traders. We presented a few articles, which pleased him highly ; a small shawl, a razor, tln-ee bunches of beads, some buttons, and a powder-horn. Apologising for the insignificance of the gift, I wished to know what I could bring him from Loanda, sa}dng not a large thing, but sometlring small. He laughed heartily at the limitation, and repHed, Everything of the white people would be acceptable, and he would receive anything thankfully ; but the coat he had then on was old, and he would like another." I introduced the subject of the Bible, but one of the old councillors broke in, told all he had picked up from the Mambari, and ghded off into several other subjects. It is a misery to speak through an interpreter, as I was now forced to do. With a body of men like mine, composed as they were of six different tribes, and all speaking the lan- guage of the Bechuanas, there was no difficulty in communi- cating on common subjects with any tribe we came to; but doling out a story in which they felt no interest, and which I understood only sufficiently well to perceive that a mere abridg- ment was given, was uncommonly slow work. Neither could Katema's attention be arrested, except by compliments, of which Chap. XVII. CATTLE—A FEAST. 321 they have always plenty to bestow as well as receive. We were strangers, and knew that, as Makololo, we had not the best of characters, yet his treatment of us was wonderfully good and liberal. I complimented him on the possession of cattle, and pleased him by telKng him how he might milk the coavs. He has a herd of about thirty, really splendid animals, all reared from two which he bought from the Balobale when he was young. They are generally of a white colour and are quite wild, running off Avith graceful eas^ like a herd of elands on the approach of a stranger. They excited the unbounded admiration of the Makololo, and clearly proved that the country was well adapted for them. When Katema wishes to slaughter one, he is obliged to shoot it as if it were a buffalo. Matiamvo is said to possess a herd of cattle in a similar state. I never could feel certain as to the reason why they do«not all possess cattle in a country containing such splendid pasturage. As Katema did not offer an ox, as would have been done by a Makololo or Caffre chief, we slaughtered one of our own, and all of us were delighted to get a meal of meat, after subsisting so long on the light porridge and green maize of Londa. On occasions of slaughtering an animal, some pieces of it are in the fire before the skin is all removed from the body. A frying-pan full of these pieces haA'ing been got quickly ready, my men crowded about their father, and I handed some all round. It was a strange sight to the Balonda, who were looking on, wondering. I offered portions to them too, but these were declined, though they are excessively fond of a little animal food, to eat with their vegetable diet. They would not eat with us, but they would take the meat and cook it in their own way, and then use it. I thought at one time that they had imported something from the Mahometans, and the more espe- cially as an exclamation of surprise, " Allah," sounds like the Illah of the Arabs ; but we found, a little farther on, another form of salutation, of Christian (?) origin, " Ave-rie " (Ave Marie). The salutations probably travel farther than the faith. My people, when satisfied with a meal like that which they enjoy so often at home, amused themselves by an uproarious dance. Katema sent to ask what I had given them to produce so much Y 322 A DIGNIFIED ANCIENT. Chap. XVII. excitement. Intemese replied it was their custom, and they meant no harm. The companion of the ox we slaughtered refused food for two days, and went lowing about for him con- tinually. He seemed inconsolable for his loss, and tried again and again to escape back to the Makololo country. My men remarked, " He thinks, they will kiU me as well as my friend." Katema thought it the result of art, and had fears of my skill in medicine, and of course witchcraft. He refused to see the magic lantern. One of the affairs wliich had been intrusted by Sliinte to Intemese, was the rescue of a wife, who had eloped with a young man belonging to Katema. As this was the only case I have met with in the interior, in which a fugitive was sent back to a chief against liis own will, I am anxious to mention it. On Intemese claiming her as his master's wife, she protested loudly against it, saying, she knew she 'vsas not going back to be a wife again : she was going back to be sold to the Mambari." My men formed many friendsliips with the people of Katema, and some of the poorer classes said in confidence, "We wish our children could go back with you to the Makololo country ; here we are all in danger of being sold." My men were of opinion that it was only the want of knowledge of the southern country which prevented an exodus of all the lower portions of Londa population thither. It is remarkable how little people living in a flat forest country like this, know of distant tribes. An old man, who said he had been born about the same time as the late Matiamvo, and had been his constant companion through life, visited us ; and as I was sitting on some grass in front of the little gipsy tent mending my camp stool, I invited him to take a seat on the gTass beside me. This was peremptorily refused : "he had never sat on the ground during the late chief's reign, and he was not going to degrade himself now." One of my men handed him a log of wood taken from the fire, and helped him out of the difficulty. AVhen I offered him some cooked meat on a plate, he would not touch that either, but would take it home. So I humoured liim by senchng a servant to bear a few ounces of meat to the town behind him. He mentioned the Lolo (Lulua) as the branch of the Leeambye which flows southwards Chap. XVIT. LAX GOVERNMENT. 323 or S.S.E. ; but tlie people of Matiamvo had never gone far do^Ti it, as their chief had always been afraid of encountering a tribe who, from the description given, I could recognise as the Makololo. He described five rivers as falling into the Lolo, viz. the Lishish, Liss or Lise, Kalileme, Ishidish, and Molong. None of these are large, but when they are united in the Lolo, they form a considerable stream. The country through which the Lolo flows is said to be flat, fertile, well peopled, and there are large patches of forest. In this report he agreed perfectly with the people of Matiamvo, whom we had met at Quendende's village. But we never could get him, or any one in this quarter, to draw a map on the ground, as people may readily be got to do in the south. Katema promised us the aid of some of his people as carriers, but his rule is not very stringent or efficient, for they refused to turn out for the work. They were Balobale ; and he remarked on their disobedience that, though he received them as fugi- tives, they did not feel grateful enough to obey, and if they continued rebellious he must drive them back whence they came : but there is little fear of that, as all the chiefs are exces- sively anxious to collect men in great numbers around them. These Balobale would not go, though our guide Shakatwala ran after some of them with a drawn sword. This degree of liberty to rebel was very striking to us, as it occurred m a country Avhere people may be sold, and often are so disposed of when guilty of any crime ; and we well knew that open disobedience , like this among the Makololo, would be punished with death without much ceremony. On Sunday, the 19th, both I and several of our party were seized with fever, and I could do nothing but toss about in my little tent, with the thermometer above 90°, though this was the beginning of winter, and my men made as much shade as pos- sible by planting branches of trees all round and over it. We have, for the first time in my experience in Africa, had a cold wind from the north. All the T\inds from that quarter are hot, and those from the south are cold, but they seldom blow from either direction. 20th, — We were glad to get away, though not on account of any scarcity of food ; for my men, by giving small presents of Y 2 324 SINGING BIRDS. Chap. XVII. meat as an earnest of their sincerity, formed many friendships with the people of Katema. We went about four or five miles in a N.N.W. direction, then two in a westerly one, and came round the small end of Lake Dilolo. It seemed, as far as we could at this time discern, to be like a river a quarter of a mile wide. It is abundantly supplied with fish and hippopotami ; the broad part, which we did not this time see, is about three miles wide, and the lake is almost seven or eight long. If it be thought strange that I did not go a few miles to see the broad part, which, according to Katema, had never been visited by any of the traders, it must be remembered that in consequence of fever I had eaten nothing for two entne days, and, instead of sleep, the whole of the nights were employed in incessant drink- ing of water, and I was now so glad to get on in the journey and see some of my fellow fever-patients crawKng along, that I could not brook the delay, which astronomical observations for accurately determining the geographical position of this most interesting spot, would have occasioned. We observed among the people of Katema a love for singing- birds. One pretty little songster, named " cabazo," a species of canary, is kept in very neatly made cages, having traps on the top to entice its still free companions. On asking why they kept them in confinement, "Because they sing sweetly," was the answer. They feed them on the lotsa {Pemiisetum typhoi- deum), of which great quantities are cultivated as food for man, and these canaries plague the gardeners here, very much in the same way as our sparrows do at home. I was pleased to hear the long-forgotten cry of alarm of the canaries in the woods, and observed one warbling forth its song, and keeping in motion from side to side, as these birds do in the cage. We saw also tame pigeons ; and the Barotse, who always take care to exalt Santuru, reminded us that this chief had many doves, and kept canaries which had reddish heads when the birds attained maturity. Those we now see have the real canary colour on the breast with a tinge of green ; the back, yellowish green, with darker longitudinal bands meeting in the centre ; a narrow dark band passes from the bill over the eye and back to the bill again. The birds of song here set up quite a merry chorus in the Chap. XVII. SPIDERS. 325 mornings, and abound most near the villages. Some sing as loudly as our thrushes, and the king-hunter {Halcyon Senegal- ensis) makes a clear whirring sound like that of a whistle with a pea in it. During the heat of the day all remain silent and take their siesta in the shadiest parts of the trees, but in the cool of the evening they again exert themselves in the produc- tion of pleasant melody. It is remarkable that so many song- birds abound where there is a general paucity of other animal life. As we went forward we were struck by the comparative absence of game and the larger kind of fowls. The rivers con- tain very few fish. Common flies are not troublesome as they are wherever milk is abundant ; they are seen in company with others of the same size and shape, but whose tiny feet do not tickle the skin, as is the case with their companions. Mosquitoes are seldom so numerous as to disturb the slumbers of a weary man. But though this region is free from common insect plagues, and from tsetse, it has others. Feeling something running across my forehead as I was falling asleep, I put up the hand to wipe it off, and was sharply stung both on the hand and head : the pain was very acute. On obtaining a light, we found that it had been inflicted by a light-coloured spider, about half an inch in length, and, one of the men having crushed it with his fingers, I had no opportunity of examining whether the pain had been produced by poison from a sting, or from its mandibles. No remedy was applied, and the pain ceased in about two hours. The Bechuanas believe that there is a small black spider in the country, whose bite is fatal. I have not met with an instance in which death could be traced to this insect, though a very large black liairy spider, an inch and a quarter long and tliree quarters of an inch broad, is frequently seen, having a process at the end of its front claws similar to that at the end of the scorpion's tail, and when the bulbous portion of it is pressed, the poison may be seen oozing out from the point. We have also spiders in the south which seize their prey by leaping upon it from a distance of several inches. When alarmed, they can spring about a foot away from the object of their own fear. Of this kind there are several varieties. A large reddish spider (Mygale) obtains its food in a different 326 SPIDEES. Chap. XVII. manner than either patiently waiting in ambush, or by catching it with a bound. It runs about with great velocity in and out, behind and around every object, searching for what it may devour, and, from its size and rapid motions, excites the horror j of every stranger. I never knew it to do any harm except ' frightening the nervous, and I believe few could look upon it for the first time without feeling himself in danger. It is named by the natives " selali," and is believed to be the maker of a hinged cover for its nest. You see a door, about the size of a shilling, lying beside a deep hole of nearly similar diameter. The inside of the door lying upwards, and which attracts your notice, is of a pure white silky substance, like paper. The outer side is coated over with earth, precisely like that in which the hole is made. If you try to lift it, you find it is fastened by a hinge on one side, and, if it is turned over upon the hole, it fits it exactly, and the earthy side being then uppermost, it is quite impossible to detect the situation of the nest. Unfortunately, this cavity for breeding is never seen, except when the owner is out, and has left the door open behind her. In some parts of the country there are great numbers of a large beautiful yellow-spotted spider, the webs of which are about a yard in diameter. The lines on which these webs are spun are suspended from one tree to another, and are as thick as coarse thread. The fibres radiate from a central point, where the insect waits for its prey. The webs are placed perpendicu- larly, and a common occurrence in walking is to get the face enveloped in them as a lady is in a veil. Another kind of spider lives in society, and forms so great a collection of webs placed at every angle, that the trunk of a tree surrounded by them cannot be seen. A piece of a hedge is often so hidden by tliis spider, that the branches are invisible. Another is seen on the inside of the walls of huts among the Makololo in great abundance. It is round in shape, spotted, brown in colour, and the body half an inch in diameter: the spread of the legs is an inch and a half. It makes a smooth spot for itself on the wall, covered with the above-mentioned white silky substance. There it is seen standing the whole day, and I never could ascertain how it fed. It has no web, but a carpet, and is a harmless, though an ugly neighbour. Chap. XVII. TRADITION OF LAKE DILOLO. 327 Immediately beyond Dilolo tliere'is a large flat about twenty miles in breadth. Here Shakatwala insisted on our remaining to get supplies of food from Katema's subjects, before entering the uninhabited watery plains. When asked the meaning of the name Dilolo, Shakatwala gave the following account of the formation of the lake. A female chief, called Moene (lord) Mo- nenga, came one evening to the village of Mosogo, a man who lived in the vicinity, but who had gone to hunt with his dogs. She asked for a supply of food, and Mosogo's wife gave her a sufficient quantity. Proceeding to another village standing on the spot now occupied by the water, she preferred the same demand, and was not only refused, but, when she uttered a threat for their niggardliness, was taunted with the question. What could she do though she were thus treated?" In order to show what she could do she began a song, in slow time, and uttered her own name, ]Monenga-woo. As she prolonged the last note, the village, people, fowls, and dogs, sank into the space now called Dilolo. When Kasimakate, the headman of this village, came home and found out the catastrophe, he cast him- self into the lake, and is supposed to be in it still. The name is derived from " ilolo," despair, because this man gave up all hope when his family was destroyed. Monenga was put to death. This may be a faint tradition of the Deluge, and it is remarkable as the only one I have met with in this country. Heavy rains prevented us from crossing the plain in front (N.N.W.) in one day, and the constant wading among the grass hurt the feet of the men. There is a footpath all the way across, but as this is worn down beneath the level of the rest of the plain, it is necessarily the deepest portion, and the men, avoiding it, make a new walk by its side. A path, however narrow, is a great convenience, as any one who has travelled on foot in Africa will readily admit. The virtual want of it here^ caused us to make slow and painful progress. Ants surely are wiser than some men, for they learn by expe- rience. They have established themselves even on these plains, where water stands so long annually, as to allow the lotus, and other aqueous plants, to come to maturity. When all the ant horizon is submerged a foot deep, they manage to exist by ascending to little houses built of black tenacious loam on stalks 328 SAGACITY OF ANTS. Chap. XVII. of grass, and placed higher than the line of inundation. This must have been the result of experience, for, if they had waited till the water actually invaded their terrestrial habitations, they would not have been able to procure materials for their aerial buarters, unless they dived down to the bottom for every mouthful of clay. Some of these upper chambers are about the size of a bean, and others as large as a man's thumb. They must have built in anticipation, and if so, let us humbly hope that the sufferers by the late inundations in France, may be possessed of as much common sense as the little black ants of the Dilolo plains. Chap. XVIII. DEEP VALLEY. 329 CHAPTER XVIII. The watershed between the northern and southern rivers — A deep valley — Rustic bridge — Fountains on the slopes of the valleys — Village of Ka- binje — Good effects .of the belief in the power of charms — Demand for gunpowder and English calico — The Kasai — Vexatious trick — Want of food — No game — Katende's unreasonable demand — A grave offence — Toll-bridge keeper — Greedy guides — Flooded valleys — Swim the fiuana Loke — Prompt kindness of my men — Makololo remarks on the rich uncultivated valleys — Difference in the colour of Africans — Reach a village of the Chiboque — The heamdan's impudent message — Sur- rounds our encampment with his warriors — The pretence — Their demand — Prospect of a fight — Way in which it was averted — Change our path — Summer — Fever — Beehives and the honey-guide — Instinct of trees — Climbers — The ox Sinbad — Absence of thorns in the forests — Plant peculiar to a forsaken garden — Bad guides — Insubordination sup- pressed — Beset by enemies — A robber party — More troubles — Detained by longa Panza — His village — Annoyed by Bangala traders — My men discouraged — Their determination and precaution. 24Lth February, — On reaching unflooded lands beyond the plain, we found the villages there acknowledged the authority of the chief named Katdnde, and we discovered also, to our surprise, that the almost level plain we had passed, forms the watershed between the southern and northern rivers, for we had now entered a dis- trict in which the rivers flowed m a northerly direction into the Kasai or Loke, near to which we now were, while the rivers we had hitherto crossed were all running southwards. Having met with kind treatment and aid at the first village, Katema's guides returned, and we were led to the N.N.W. by the inliabitants, and descended into the very first really deep vaUey we had seen siQce leaving Kolobeng. A stream ran along the bottom of a slope of three or four hundred yards from the plains above. We crossed this by a rustic bridge at present submerged thigh deep by the rains. The trees gTowiag along the stream of this lovely valley were thickly planted and very high. Many had sixty or eighty feet of clean straight trunk, and beautiful flowers adorned the ground beneath them. Ascending the opposite side, we came, in two hours' time, to another valley, 330 FOUXTAINS— VILLAGE OF KABIXJE. Chap. XVIIL equally beautiful, and with a stream also in its centre. It maj seem mere trifling to note such an unimportant tiling as the occurrence of a valley, there being so many in every country under the sun ; but as these were branches of that in wliich the Kasai or Loke flows, and both that river and its feeders derive their water in a singular manner from the valley sides, I may be excused for caUing particular attention to the more furrowed natm^e of the country. At different pouits on the slopes of these valleys which we now for the first time entered, there are oozing fountains, sur- rounded by clumps of the same evergreen, straight, large-leaved trees we have noticed along the streams. These spots are gene- rally covered with a mat of grassy vegetation, and possess more the character of bogs than of fountains. They slowly discharge into the stream below, and are so numerous along both banks as to give a peculiar character to the landscape. These groups of sylvan vegetation are generally of a rounded form, and the trunks of the trees are tall and straight, while those on the level plains above are low and scraggy in their growth. There can be little doubt but that the water, which stands for months on the plains, soaks in, and finds its way into the rivers and rivulets by percolating through the soil, and out by these oozing bogs ; and the difference between the growth of the trees, though they be of different species, may be a proof that the stuntedness of those on the plains, is o^^ ing to being in the course of each year more subjected to drought than moisture. Keaching the village of Kabinje, in the evening he sent us a present of tobacco, Mutokuane or "bang" {^Cannabis sativd), and maize, by the man who went forward to announce our arrival, and a message expressuig satisfaction at the prospect of ha\ang trade with the coast. The westing we were making brought us among people who are frequently visited by the Mambari, as slave-dealers. This trade causes bloodshed ; for when a poor family is selected as the victims, it is necessary to get rid of the older members of it, because they are supposed to be able to give annoyance to the chief afterwards by means of enchantments. The behef in the power of charms for good or evil jDroduces not only honesty, but a great amount of gentle dealing. The powerful are often restrained in their despotism, from a fear Chap. XVIII. DEMAND FOE GUNPOT^T)EE AXD CALICO. 331 that the weak and helpless may injure them by then- medical knowledge. They have many fears. A man at one of the villages we came to, showed us the gTave of his child, and with much apparent feehng, told us she had been burned to death in her hut. He had come with all his family, and built huts around it in order to weep for her. He thought, if the grave were left unwatched, the ^ntches would come and bewitch them by putting medicines on the body. They have a more decided belief in the continued existence of departed spirits than any of the more southerly tribes. Even the Barotse possess it in a strong degree, for one of my men of that tribe, on expe- riencing headache, said, with a sad and thoughtful countenance, **My father is scolding me because I do not give him any of the food I eat." I asked where his father was. " Among the Barimo," was the reply. When we wished to move on, Kabinje refused a guide to the next village, because he was at war with it; but after much persuasion he consented, provided that the guide should be allowed to return as soon as he came in sight of the enemy's village. This we felt to be a misfortune, as the people all sus- pect a man who comes telling liis oto tale ; but there being no help for it, we went on and found the headman of a village on the rivulet Kalomba, called Kangenke, a very different man from what his enemy represented. We found too that the idea of buying and selling, took the place of giving for friendsliip. As I had nothing Avith which to purchase food except a parcel of beads which were preserved for worse times, I began to fear that we should soon be compelled to suffer more from hunger than we had done. The people demanded gunpowder for everything. K we had possessed any quantity of that article we should have got on well, for here it is of great value. On our return, near this spot we found a good-sized fowl was sold for a single charge of gunpowder. K ext to that, English caHco was in great demand, and so were beads ; but money was of no value whatever. Gold is quite unknown ; it is thought to be brass ; trade is carried on by barter alone. The people know nothing of money. A purse-proud person would here feel the ground move from beneath his feet. Occasionally a large piece of copper, in the shape of a St. Andrew's cross, is offered for sale. 332 VEXATIOUS TEICK. Chap. XVIII. ^Ith February. — Kangenke promptly fumislied guides this morning, so we went briskly on a sliort distance, and came to a part of the Kasye, Kasai, or Loke, where he had appointed two canoes to convey us across. This is a most beautiful river, and very much like the Clyde in Scotland. The slope of the valley down to the stream is about five hundred yards, and finely wooded. It is, perhaps, one hundred yards broad, and was winding slowly from side to side in the beautiful green glen, in a course to the north and north-east. In both the directions fi'om which it came and to wliich it went, it seemed to be alternately embowered in sylvan vegetation, or rich meadows covered with tall grass. The men pointed out its course and said, Though you sail along it for months, you will turn without seeing the end of it." While at the ford of the Kasai, we were subjected to a trick of which we had been forewarned by the people of Shinte. A knife had been dropped by one of Kangenke's people in order to entrap my men ; it was put down near our encampment, as if lost, the owner in the mean time watching till one of my men picked it up. Nothing was said until our party was divided, one half on this, and the other on that bank of the river. Then the charge was made to me that one of my men had stolen a knife. Certain of my people's honesty, I desired the man, who was making a great noise, to search the luggage for it ; the unlucky lad who had taken the bait, then came forward and confessed that he had the knife in a basket, which was abeady taken over the river. When it was returned, the owner would not receive it back unless accompanied Avith a fine. The lad offered beads, but these were refused with scorn. A shell hanging round his neck, similar to that wliich Shinte had given me, was the object demanded, and the victim of the trick, as we aU knew it to be, was obliged to part with his costly orna- ment. I could not save him from the loss, as all had been fore- warned ; and it is the universal custom among the Makololo, and many other tribes, to show whatever they may find to the chief person of their company, and make a sort of offer of it to him. This lad ought to have done so to me ; the rest of the party always observed this custom. I felt annoyed at the impo- sition, but the order we invariably followed in crossing a river Chap. XVIII. WANT OF FOOD. 333 forced me to submit. The head of the party remained to be ferried over last ; so, if I had not come to terms, I would have been, as I always was in crossing rivers which we could not swim, completely in the power of the enemy. It was but rarely we could get a headman so witless as to cross a river with us, and remain on the opposite bank in a convenient position to be seized as a hostage, in case of my being caught. This trick is but one of a number equally dishonourable which are practised by tribes that lie adjacent to the more civilised settlements. The Balonda farther east told us, by way of warning, that many parties of the more central tribes had at various periods set out, in order to trade with the white men themselves, instead of through the Mambari, but had always been obliged to return without reaching their destination, in consequence of so many pretexts being invented by the tribes encountered in the way, for fining them of their ivory. This ford was in 11° 15' 47" S. latitude, but the weather was so excessively cloudy, we got no observation for longitude. We were now in want of food, for, to the great surprise of my companions, the people of Kangenke gave nothing except by way of sale, and charged the most exorbitant prices for the little meal and manioc they brought. The only ai^ticle of barter my men had, was a little fat saved from the ox we slaughtered at Katema's, so I was obliged to give them a portion of the stock of beads. One day (29th) of westing brought us from the Kasai to near the village of Katende, and we saw that we were in a land where no hope could be entertained of getting supplies of animal food, for one of our guides caught a light-blue coloured mole and two mico for his supper. The care with which he wrapped them up in a leaf and slung them on his spear, told that we could not hope to enjoy any larger game. We saw no evi- dence of any animals besides ; and, on coming to the villages beyond this, we often saw boys and girls engaged in digging up these tiny quadrupeds. Katende sent for me on the day following our arrival, and, being quite willing to visit him, I walked, for this purpose, about three miles from our encampment. When we approached the village we were desired to enter a hut, and, as it was raining at the time, we did so. After a long time spent in giving and 334 A GRAVE OFFENCE. Chap. XVIII. receiving messages from the great man, we were told that he wanted either a man, a tusk, beads, copper rings, or a shell, as payment for leave to pass through his country. No one, we were assured, was allowed that liberty, or even to behold him, vrithout something of the sort being presented. Having humbly explained our circumstances, and that he could not expect to " catch a humble cow by the horns," — a proverb similar to ours that " you can't draw milk out of a stone " — we were told to go home, and he would speak again to us next day. I could not avoid a hearty laugh at the cool impudence of the savage, and made the best of my way home in the still-pouring rain. My men were rather nettled at this want of hospitality, but, after talking over the matter with one of Katende's servants, he pro- posed that some small article should be given, and an attempt made to please Katende. I turned out my shirts, and selected the worst one as a sop for him, and invited Katende to come and choose anything else I had, but added that, when I should reach my own chief naked, and was asked what I had done with my clothes, I should be obliged to confess that I had left them with Katende. The shirt was despatched to him, and some of my people went along with the servant ; they soon returned, saying that the shirt had been accepted, and guides and food too would be sent to us next day. The chief had, moreover, expressed a hope to see me on my return. He is reported to be very cor- pulent. The traders who have come here seem to have been very timid, pelding to every demand made on the most frivolous pretences. One of my men, seeing another much like an ac- quaintance at home, addressed him by the name of the latter in sport, telling him at the same time why he did so ; this was pronounced to be a grave offence, and a large fine demanded ; when the case came before me I could see no harm in what had been done, and told my people not to answer the young fellow. The latter felt himseK disarmed, for it is chiefly in a brawl they have power ; then words are spoken in anger, which rouse the passions of the complainant's friends. In this case, after voci- ferating some time, the would-be offended party came and said to my man, that, if they exchanged some small gift, all would be right, but, my man taking no notice of liim, he went off rather crestfallen. Chap. XVIII. GREEDY GUIDES. 335 My men were as much astonished aS myself at the demand for payment for leave to pass, and the almost entire neglect of the rules of hospitality. Katende gave us only a little meal and manioc, and a fowl. Being detained two days by hea\y rains, we felt that a good stock of patience was necessary in travelling through this country in the rainy season. Passing onwards without seeing Katende, we crossed a small rivulet, the Sengko, by which we had encamped, and after two hours came to another, the Totelo, which was somewhat larger, and had a bridge over it. At the further end of this structure stood a negro, who demanded fees. He said the bridge was his ; the path his ; the guides were his children ; and if we did not pay liim, he would prevent farther progress. This piece of civilization I was not prepared to meet, and stood a few seconds looking at our bold toll-keeper, when one of my men took off three copper bracelets, which paid for the whole party. The negro was a better man than he at first seemed, for he imme- diately went to his garden and brought us some leaves of tobacco as a present. When we had got fairly away from the villages, the guides from Kangenke sat down and told us that there were three paths in front, and, if we did not at once present them with a cloth, they would leave us to take whichever we might like best. As I had pointed out the direction in which Loanda lay, and had only employed them for the sake of knowing the paths between villages which lay along our route, and always objected when they led us in any other than the Loanda direction, I wished my men now to go on without the guides, trusting to ourselves to choose the path which would seem to lead us in the direction we had always followed. But Mashauana, fearing lest w^e might wander, asked leave to give his own cloth, and when the guides saw that, they came forward shouting, " Averie, Averie ! " In the afternoon of this day we came to a valley about a mile wide, filled with clear fast-flowing water. The men on foot were chin deep in crossing, and we three on oxback got wet to the middle, the weight on the animals preventing them from swim- ming. A thunder-shower descending, completed the partial drenching of the plain, and gave a cold uncomfortable " packing in a wet blanket " that night. Next day we found another 336 FLOODED VALLEYS. Chap. XYIII. flooded valley about half a mile wide, with a small and now deep rivulet in its middle, flowing rapidly to tlie 8.S.E. or towards the Kasai. The middle part of this flood, being the bed of what at other times is the rivulet, was so rapid that we crossed by holding on to the oxen, and the current soon dashed them to the opposite banl?: ; we then jumped off, and, the oxen being relieved of then- burdens, we could pull them on to the shallower part. The rest of the valley was thigh deep and boggy, but holding on by the belt which fastened the blanket to the ox, we each floun- dered tlii'ough the nasty slough as well as we could. These boggy parts, lying parallel to the stream, were the most extensive we had come to — those mentioned already were mere circum- scribed patches, these stretched for miles along each bank ; but even here, though the rapidity of the current was very consider- able, the thick sward of grass was " laid " flat along the sides of the stream, and the soil was not abraded so much as to dis- colour the flood. AMien we came to the opposite side of this valley, some pieces of the ferruginous conglomerate, which forms the capping to all other rocks m a large district around and north of this, cropped out, and the oxen bit at them as if sur- prised by the appearance of stone as much as we were ; or it may have contained some mineral of which they stood in need. We had not met with a stone since leaving Shinte's. The country is covered with deep alluvial soil of a dark colour and very fertile. In the afternoon we came to another stream, iiuana Loke (or child of Loke) with a bridge over it. The men had to swim off to each end of the bridge, and when on it were breast deep ; some preferred holding on by the tails of the oxen the whole way across. I intended to do this too, but, riding to the deep part, before I could dismount and seize the helm the ox dashed off with his companions, and his body sank so deep, that I failed in my attempt even to catch the blanket belt, and if I pulled the bridle, the ox seemed as if he would come backwards upon me, so I stiTick out for the opposite bank alone. My poor fellows were dreadfully alarmed when they saw me parted from the cattle, and about twenty of them made a simultaneous rush iato the water for my rescue, and just as I reached the opposite bank one seized my arm, and another threw his around my body. Chap. XVIIT. UNCULTIVATED VALLEYS. 337 Wlien I stood up, it was most gratifying to see them all struggling towards me. Some had leaped off the bridge, and allowed their cloaks to float down the stream. Part of my goods, abandoned in the hurry, were brought up from the bottom after I was safe. Great was the pleasure expressed when they found that I could swim like themselves, without the aid of a tail, and I did, and do feel grateful to these poor heathens for the promptitude with which they dashed in to save, as they thought, my life. I found my clothes cumbersome in the water ; they could swim quicker from being naked. They swim like dogs, not frog-fashion, as we do. In the evening we crossed the small rivulet Lozeze, and came to some villages of the Kasabi, from whom we got some manioc in exchange for beads. They tried to frighten us by telling of the deep rivers we should have to cross in our way. I was drying my clothes by turning myself round and round before the fire. My men laughed at the idea of being frightened by rivers. " We can all swim : who carried the white man across the river but himself ? " I felt proud of their praise. Saturday, M March. — Came to the outskirts of the territory of the Chiboque. We crossed the Konde and Kaluze rivulets. The former is a deep small stream with a bridge, the latter in- significant ; the valleys in which these rivulets run are beautifully fertile. My companions are continually lamenting over the un- cultivated vales, in such words as these, — " What a fine country for cattle ! My heart is sore to see such fruitful valleys for corn lying waste ! " At the time these words were put down, I had come to the belief that the reason why the inhabitants of this fine country possess no herds of cattle, was owing to the despotic sway of their chiefs, and that the common people would not be allowed to keep any domestic animals, even supposing they could acquire them ; but on musing on the subject since, I have been led to the conjecture that the rich fertUe country of Londa, must formerly have been infested by the tsetse, but that, as the people killed off the game on which, in the absence of man, the tsetse must subsist, the insect was starved out of the country. It is now found only where wild animals abound, and the Ba- londa, by the possession of guns, having cleared most of the country of all the large game, we may have happened to come z 338 DIFFERENCE IN COLOUR OF AFRICANS. Chap. XVIII. just when it was possible to admit of cattle. Hence the success of Katema, Shinte, and Matiamvo ^vith their herds. It would not be surprising, though they know nothing of the circum- stance ; a tribe on the Zambesi, wliicli I encountered, whose country was swarming with tsetse, believed that they could not keep any cattle because " no one loved them well enough to give them the medicine of oxen ;" and even the Portuguese at Loanda accounted for the death of the cattle brought from the interior to the sea-coast, by the prejudicial influence of the sea air ! One ox which I took down to the sea from the interior, died at Loanda, with all the symptoms of the poison injected by tsetse, which I saw myseK, in a district a hundred miles from the coast. While at the villages of the Kasabi, we saw no evidence of want of food among the people. Om- beads were very valuable, but cotton cloth would have been still more so ; as we tra- velled along, men, women, and cliildi-en came running after us, with meal and fowls for sale, which we would gladly have pur- chased had we possessed any English manufactm-es. When they heard that we had no cloth, they tm^ned back much dis- appointed. The amount of population in the central parts of the country may be called large, only as compared mth the Cape Colony or the Bechuana country. The cultivated land is as nothing com- pared Avith what might be brought under the plough. There are flowing streams in abundance, which, were it necessary, could be turned to the purpose of irrigation Avith but little labom\ Miles of fruitful country are now lying absolutely waste, for there is not even game to eat off the fine pasturage, and to recline under the evergreen shady groves which we are ever passing in om- progress. The people who mhabit the central region are not all quite black in colour. Many inclme to that of bronze, and others are as light in hue as the Bushmen ; who, it may be remembered, afford a proof that heat alone does not cause blackness, but that heat and moisture combined, do very materially deepen the colour. Wherever we find people who have continued for ages in a hot humid district, they are deep black, but to this apparent law there are exceptions, caused by the migTations of both tribes and individuals ; the Makololo for Chap. XVIII. AFEICAN DIALECTS. 339 instance, among the tribes of the humid central basin, appear of a sickly sallow hue, when compared with the aboriginal inha- bitants ; the Batoka also, who Kved in an elevated region, are, when seen in company with the Batoka of the rivers, so much lighter in colour, they might be taken for another tribe ; but their language, and the very marked custom of knocking out the upper front teeth, leave no room for doubt that they are one people. Apart from the influences of elevation, heat, humidity, and degradation, I have imagined that the lighter and darker colours observed in the native population, run in five longi- tudinal bands along the southern portion of the continent. Those on the seaboard of both the east and west are very dark ; then two bands of lighter colour lie about three hundred miles from each coast, of which the westerly one, bending round, em- braces the Kalahari Desert and Bechuana countries ; and then the central basin is very dark again. This opinion is not given with any degree of positiveness. It is stated just as it struck my mind in passing across the country, and if incorrect, it is singular that the dialects spoken by the different tribes, have arranged themselves in a fashion wliich seems to indicate migi*a- tion along the lines of colour. The dialects spoken in the ex- treme south, whether Hottentot or Cafifre, bear a close affinity to those of the tribes living immediately on their northern borders : one glides into the other, and their affinities are so easily detected, that they are at once recognised to be cognate. If the dialects of extreme points are compared, as that of the Caffires and the tribes near the Equator, it is more difficult to recognise the fact, wliich is really the case, that all the dialects belong to but two families of languages. Examination of the roots of the words of the dialects, arranged in geographical order, shows that they merge into each other, and there is not nearly so much difference between the extremes of east and west as between those of north and south ; the dialect spoken at Tete resembling closely that in Angola. Having, on the afore-mentioned date, reached the village of Njambi, one of the chiefs of the Chiboque, we intended to pass a quiet Sunday ; and our provisions being quite spent, I ordered a tired riding-ox to be slaughtered. As we wished to be on good terms with all, we sent the hump and ribs to Njambi, with the z 2 340 OUR ENCAMPMENT SURROUNDED. Chap. XVIII. explanation tliat this was the customary tribute to chiefs in the part from which we had come, and that we always honoured men in his position. He returned thanks, and promised to send food. Next morning he sent an impudent message, with a very small present of meal ; scorning the meat he had accepted, he de- manded either a man, an ox, a gun, powder, cloth, or a shell ; and in the event of refusal to comply with his demand, he inti- mated his intention to prevent our further progress. We replied, we should have thought ourselves fools if we had scorned his small present, and demanded other food instead ; and even sup- poshig Ave had possessed the articles named, no black man ought to impose a tribute on a party that did not trade in slaves. The servants who brought the message said that, when sent to the Mambari, they had always got a quantity of cloth from them for their master, and now expected the same, or something else as an equivalent, from me. We heard some of the Cliiboque remark, " They have only five guns ;" and about mid-day, Njambi collected all his people, and surrounded our encampment. Their object was evidently to plunder us of everything. My men seized their javelins, and stood on the defensive, while the young Chiboque had drawn their swords and brandished them with great fury. Some even pointed their guns at me, and nodded to each other, as much as to say, This is the way we shall do with him." I sat on my camp-stool, with my double-barrelled gun across my knees, and invited the chief to be seated also. When he and his counsellors had sat down on the ground in front of me, I asked what crime we had committed that he had come armed in that way. He replied that one of my men, Pitsane, while sitting at the fire that morning, had, in spitting, allowed a small quantity of the saliva to fall on the leg of one of his men, and this " guilt " he wanted to be settled by the fine of a man, ox, or gun. Pitsane admitted the fact of a little saliva having fallen on the Chiboque, and in proof of its being a pure accident, mentioned that he had given the man a piece of meat, by way of making friends, just before it happened, and wiped it off vdth. his hand as soon as it fell. In reference to a man being given, I declared that we were all ready to die rather than give up one of our number to be a slave ; that my men might as well give me as I give one of them^, Chap. XVIII. PROSPECTS OF A FIGHT. 341 for we were all free men. " Then you can give the gun with which the ox was shot." As we heard some of his people re- marking even now that we had only ^' five guns," we declined, on the ground that, as they were intent on plundering us, giving a gun would be helping them to do so. This they denied, saying they wanted the customary tribute only. I asked what right they had to demand payment for leave to tread on the ground of God, our common Father ? If we tfod on their gardens we would pay, but not for marching on land which was still God's and not theirs. They did not attempt to controvert this, because it is in accordance with their own ideas, but reverted again to the pretended crime of the saliva. My men now entreated me to give sometliing ; and after asking the chief if he really thought the affair of the spitting a matter of guilt, and receiving an answer in the affirmative, I gave him one of my shirts. The young Chiboque were dissatisfied, and began shouting and brandishing their swords for a greater fine. As Pitsane felt that he had been the cause of this disagreeable affair, he asked me to add something else. I gave a bunch of beads, but the counsellors objected this time, so I added a large handkerchief. The more I yielded, the more unreasonable their demands became, and at every fresh demand, a shout was raised by the armed party, and a rush made around us with brandishing of arms. One young man made a charge at my head from be- hind, but I quickly brought round the muzzle of my gun to his mouth, and he retreated. I pointed him out to the chief, and he ordered him to retire a little. I felt anxious to avoid the effusion of blood ; and though sure of being able with my Makololo, who had been drilled by Sebituane, to drive off twice the number of our assailants, though now a large body, and well armed with spears, swords, arrows, and guns, I strove to avoid actual col- lision. My men were quite unprepared for this exhibition, but behaved with admirable coolness. The chief and counsellors, by accepting my invitation to be seated, had placed themselves in a trap ; for my men very quietly surrounded them, and made them feel that there was no chance of escaping their spears. I then said, that, as one thing after another had failed to satisfy them, it was evident that they wanted to fight, while ive only wanted to pass peaceably through the country ; that they must 342 THE FIGHT AVERTED. Chap. XYHI. begin first and bear the guilt before Grod : we would not figbt till they had struck the first blow. I then sat silent for some time. It was rather trying for me, because I knew that the Chi- boque would aim at the wliite man first ; but I was careful not to appear flurried, and, having four barrels ready for instant action, looked quietly at the savage scene around. The Chiboque coun- tenance, by no means handsome, is not improved by the practice wMch they have adopted of filing the teeth to a point. The chief and counsellors, seeing that they were in more danger than I, did not choose to follow our decision that they should begin by striking the first blow, and then see what we could do ; and were perhaps influenced by seeing the air of cool preparation, which some of my men displayed, at the prospect of a work of blood. The Chiboque at last put the matter before us in this way : *• You come among us in a new way, and say you are quite friendly : how can we know it unless you give us some of your food, and you take some of ours? If you give us an ox we will give you whatever you may wish, and then we shall be friends." In accordance with the entreaties of my men I gave an ox ; and when asked what I should like in return, mentioned food, as the thing which we most needed. In the evening Njambi sent a very small basket of meal, and two or three pounds of the flesh of our own ox ! with the apology that he had no fowls, and very little of any other food. It was impos- sible to avoid a laugh at the coolness of the generous creatures. I was truly thanl?:ful nevertheless that, though resolved to die rather than deliver up one of our number to be a slave, we had so far gained our point as to be allowed to pass on without having shed human blood. In the midst of the commotion, several Chiboque stole pieces of meat out of the sheds of my people, and Mohorisi, one of the Makololo, went boldly into the crowd and took back a marrow- bone from one of them. A few of my Batoka seemed afraid, and would perhaps have fled had the affray actually begun, but upon the whole I thought my men behaved admirably. They lamented having left their shields at home by command of Sekeletu, who feared that, if they carried these, they might be more disposed to be overbearing in their demeanour to the tribes we should meet. We had proceeded on the principles Chap. XVIII. CHANGE OF PATH. 343 of peace and conciliation, and the foregoing treatment sliows in what light our conduct was viewed : in fact, we were taken for interlopers trying to cheat the revenue of the tribe. They had been accustomed to get a slave or two fi'om every slave- trader who passed them, and now that we disputed the right, they viewed the infringement on what they considered lavrfully due, with most virtuous indignation. March %th. — We were informed that the people on the west of the Cliiboque of Njambi were familiar mth the visits of slave- traders ; and it was 'the opinion of our guides from Kangenke, that so many of my companions would be demanded from me, in the same manner as the people of Njambi had done, that I should reach the coast without a single attendant ; I therefore resolved to alter our course and strike away to the N.N.E., in the hope that at some point farther north I might find an exit to the Portuguese settlement of Cassange. We proceeded at first due north, with the Kasabi villages on our right, and the Kasau on our left. During the first twenty miles we crossed many small, but now swollen streams, having the usual boggy banks, and wherever tlie water had stood for any length of time, it was discolom-ed with rust of u'on. We saw a "nakong" antelope one day, a rare sight in this quarter ; and many new and pretty flowers adorned the valleys. We could observe the difference in the seasons in our northing in comj)any with the sun. Summer was now nearly over at Kuruman, and far advanced at Linyanti, but here we were in the middle of it ; fruits, which we had eaten ripe on the Leeambye, were here quite green ; but we were coming into tlie region where the inha- bitants are favoured with two rainy seasons and two crops, i.e. when the sun is going south, and when he comes back on liis way to the north, as was the case at present. On the 8th, one of the men had left an ounce or two of powder at our sleeping-place, and went back several miles for it. My clothing being wet from crossing a stream, I was com- pelled to wait for him ; had I been moving in the sun I should have felt no harm, but the inaction led to a violent fit of fever. The continuance of this attack was a source of much regret, for we went on next day to a small ri^oilet called Chihune, in a lovely valley, and had, for a wonder, a clear sky and a clear 344 INSTINCT OF TEEES. Chap. XVIII. moon; but such was the confusion produced in my mind by the state of my body, that I could scarcely manage, after some hours' trial, to get a lunar observation in which I could repose confidence. The Chihune flows into the Longe, and that into the Chihombo, a feeder of the Kasai. Those who know the difficulties of taking altitudes, times, and distances, and com- mitting all of them to paper, will sympathise with me in this and many similar instances. AYhilst at Chihune, the men of a village brought wax for sale, and, on finding that we wished honey, went off and soon brought a hive. All the bees in the country are in possession of the natives, for they place hives sufficient for them all. After having ascertained this, we never attended the call of the honey-guide, for we were sure it would only lead us to a hive which we had no right to touch. The bird continues its habit of inviting attention to the honey, though its services in this district are never actually needed. My Makololo lamented that they never knew before that wax could be sold for an}i;hing of value. As we traverse a succession of open lawns and deep forests, it is interesting to observe something like instinct developed even in trees. One which, when cut, emits a milky juice, if met vdth on the open lawns, grows as an ordinary umbrageous tree, and shows no disposition to be a chmber ; when planted in a forest it still takes the same form, then sends out a climbing branch, which twines round another tree until it rises thirty or forty feet, or to the level of the other trees, and there spreads out a second crown where it can enjoy a fair share of the sun's rays. In parts of the forest still more dense than this, it assumes the form of a climber only, and at once avails itself of the assistance of a tall neighbour by winding vigorously round it, without attempting to form a lower head. It does not succeed so well as parasites proper, but where forced to contend for space, it may be mistaken for one which is inva- riably a climber. The paths here were very narrow and very much encumbered with gigantic creepers, often as thick as a man's leg. There must be some reason why they prefer, in some districts, to go up trees in the common form of the thread of a screw, rather than in any other. On the one bank of the Chihune they appeared to a person standing opposite them to Chap. XVIII. ABSENCE OF THOENS IN FOREST. 345 vdnd up from left to right, on the other bank from right to left. I imagined this was owing to the sun being at one season of the year on their north, and at another on their south. But on the Leeambye, I observed creepers winding up on opposite sides of the same reed, and making a figure like the lacings of a sandal. In passing through these narrow paths, I had an opportunity of observing the peculiarities of my ox "Sinbad." He had a softer back than the others, but a much more intractable temper. His horns were bent downwards and hung loosely, so he could do no harm with them ; but as we wended our way slowly along the narrow path, he would suddenly dart aside. A string tied to a stick put through the cartilage of the nose serves instead of a bridle : if you jerk this back, it makes him run faster on ; if you pull it to one side, he allows the nose and head to go, but keeps the opposite eye directed to the forbidden spot, and goes in spite of you. The only way he can be brought to a stand is by a stroke with a wand across the nose. ^\Tien Sinbad ran in below a climber stretched over the path, so low that I could not stoop under it, I was dragged off and came down on the crowTi of my head ; and he never allowed an opportunity of the kind to pass without trying to inflict a kick, as if I neither had nor deserved liis love. A remarkable peculiarity in the forests of this country is the absence of thorns ; there are but two exceptions — one a tree bearing a species of 7iux vomica, and a small shrub very like the plant of the sarsaparilla, bearing in addition to its hooked thorns bunches of yellow berries. The thornlessness of the vegetation is especially noticeable to those who have been in the south, where there is so great a variety of thorn-bearing plants and trees. We have thorns of every size and shape ; thorns straight, thin and long, short and thick, or hooked, and so strong as to be able to cut even leather like a knife. Seed-vessels are scattered everywhere by these appendages. One lies flat as a shilling, with two thorns in its centre, ready to run into the foot of any animal that treads upon it, and stick there for days together. Another (the Uncaria procumbem, or grapple-plant) has so many hooked thorns as to cling most tenaciously to any animal to which it may become attached ; when it happens to lay hold of 346 PLANT OF FORSAKEN GARDENS. Chap. XVIII. the mouth of an ox, the animal stands and roars with pain and a sense of helplessness. and afterwards abandoned, a species of plant with leaves like j those of ginger springs up, and contends for the possession of ^ the soil mth a great crop of ferns. This is the case all the way I down to Angola, and shows the great difference of chmate be- I tween this and the Bechuana country, where a fern, except one I or two hardy species, is never seen. The plants above men- I tioned bear a pretty pink flower close to the ground, which is 1 succeeded by a scarlet fruit full of seeds, yielding, as so many i fruits in this country do, a pleasant acid juice, which like the ( rest is probably intended as a corrective to the fluids of the : system in the hot climate. '\ On leavinof the Chiliune we crossed the Louo-e, and, as the I day was cloudy, our guides wandered in a forest aAvay to the j west till we came to the river Chihombo, flowing to the E.N.E. i My men depended so much on the sun for guidance that, having i seen nothing of the luminary all day, they thought we had wan- | dered back to the Chiboque, and, as often happens when be- j wildered, they disputed as to the point where the sun should rise next morning. As soon as the rains would allow next day, we went off to the N.E. It would have been better to have travelled by compass alone, for tlie guides took advantage of any Chap. XVIH. INSUBORDINATION SUPPRESSED. 347 fears expressed by my people, and threatened to return if pre- sents were not made at once. But my men had never left their own country before, except for rapine and murder. When they formerly came to a village they were in the habit of killing numbers of the inhabitants, and then taking a few young men to serve as guides to the next place. As this was their first attempt at an opposite line of conduct, and as they were without their shields, they felt defenceless among the greedy Chiboque, and some allowance must be made for them on that account. Saturday, Wth. — Eeached a small village on the banks of a narrow stream. I was too ill to go out of my little covering, except to quell a mutiny which began to show itself among some of the Batoka and Ambonda of our party. They grumbled, as they often do against their chiefs, when they think them partial m their gifts, because they supposed that I had shown a preference in the distribution of the beads ; but the beads I had given to my priucipal men were only sufficient to purchase a scanty meal, and I had hastened on to this village in order to slaughter a tired ox, and give them all a feast as well as a rest on Sunday, as preparation for the journey before us. I explained this to them, and thought their grumblmg was allayed. I soon sank into a state of stupor, which the fever sometimes produced, and was oblivious to all their noise in slaughtering. On Sunday the mutineers were making a terrible din in preparing a sldn they had procured. I requested them twice, by the man who attended me, to be more quiet, as the noise pained me : but as they paid no attention to this civil request, I put out my head, and, repeatiQg it myself, was answered by an impudent laugh. Knowing that discipline would be at an end if this mutiny were not quelled, and that our lives depended on vigorously uphold- ing authority, I seized a double-barrelled pistol, and darted forth from the domicile, looking, I suppose, so savage as to put them to a precipitate flight. As some remained within hearing, I told them that I must maiatain discipline, though at the expense of some of their limbs ; so long as we travelled together they must remember that I was master, and not they. There being but little room to doubt my determination, they immediately became very obedient, and never afterwards gave me any trouble, or imagined that they had any right to my property. 348 DEMANDS OF THE CHIBOQUE. Chap. XVIII. 13th. — We went forward some miles, but were brought to a stand by the severity of my fever on the banks of a branch of the Loajima, another tributary of the Kasai. I was in a state of partial coma until late at night, when it became necessary for me to go out ; and I was surprised to find that my men had built a little stockade, and some of them took their spears and acted as a guard. I found that we were sm-rounded by enemies, and a party of Chiboque lay near the gateway, after having pre- ferred the demand of "a man, an ox, a gun, or a tusk." My men had prepared for defence in case of a night attack, and when the Chiboque wished to be shown where I lay sick, they very properly refused to point me out. In the morning I went out to the Chiboque, and found that they answered me civilly regarding my intentions in opening the country, teaching them, &c. &c. They admitted that their chiefs would be pleased with the prospect of friendship, and now only wished to exchange tokens of goodwill with me, and offered three pigs, which they hoped I would accept. The people here are in the habit of making a present, and then demanding whatever they choose in return ; we had been forewarned of this by our guides, so I tried to decline, by asking if they would eat one of the pigs in com- pany with us. To this proposition they said that they durst not accede. I then accepted the present in the hope that the blame of deficient friendly feeling might not rest with me, and pre- sented a razor, two bunches of beads, and twelve copper rings, contributed by my men from their arms. They went off to report to their chief ; and as I was quite unable to move from excessive giddiness, we continued in the same spot on Tuesday evening, when they returned with a message couched in very plain terms, that a man, tusk, gun, or even an ox, alone would be accept- able ; that he had everything else in his possession but oxen, and that, whatever I should please to demand from him, he would gladly give it. As this was all said civilly, and there was no help for it if we refused, but bloodshed, I gave a tired riding- ox. My late chief mutineer, an Ambonda man, was now over- loyal, for he armed himseK and stood at the gateway. He would rather die than see his father imposed on ; but I ordered Mo- santu to take him out of the way, which he did promptly, and allowed the Chiboque to march off well pleased with their booty. Chap. XVIIT. A BOBBER PARTY. 349 1 told my men that I esteemed one of tlieir lives of more value than all the oxen we had, and that the only cause which could induce me to fight, would be to save the lives and liberties of the majority. In the propriety of this they all agreed, and said that, if the Chiboque molested us who behaved so peaceably, the guilt would be on their heads. This is a favourite mode of expression throughout the whole country. All are anxious to give explanation of any acts they have performed, and conclude the narration with, "I have no guilt or blame" ("molatu"). They have the guilt." I never could be positive whether the idea in then- minds is. guilt in the sight of the Deity, or of man- kind only. Next morning the robber party came with about thirty yards of strong striped English calico, an axe, and two hoes for our acceptance, and returned the copper rings, as the chief was a great man, and did not need the ornaments of my men, but w,e noticed that they were taken back again. I divided the cloth among my men, and pleased them a little by thus compensating for the loss of the ox. I advised the chief, whose name we did not learn, as he did not deign to appear except under the alias Matiamvo, to get cattle for his own use, and expressed sorrow that I had none wherewith to enable him to make a commence- ment. Rains prevented our proceeding till Thursday morning, and then messengers appeared to tell us that their chief had learned, that all the cloth sent by him had not been presented ; that the copper rings had been secreted by the persons ordered to restore them to us, and that he had stripped the thievish emissaries of their property as a punishment. Our guides thought these were only spies of a larger party, concealed in the forest through which we were now about to pass. We prepared for defence by marching in a compact body, and allowing no one to straggle far behind the others. We marched through many miles of gloomy forest in gloomier silence, but nothing disturbed us. We came to a village, and found all the men absent, the guides thought, in the forest, with their countrymen. I was too ill to care much whether we were attacked or not. Though a pouring rain came on, as we were all anxious to get away out of a bad neighbourhood, we proceeded. The thick atmosphere pre- vented my seeing the creeping plants in time to avoid them ; so 350 MORE TROUBLES. Chap. XVIII. Pitsane, Mohorisi, and I, wlio alone were mounted, were often caught ; and as there is no stopping the oxen when they have the prospect of giving the rider a tumble, we came frequently to the ground. In addition to these mishaps, Sinbad went off at a plunging gallop, the bridle broke, and I came down back- wards on the croAvn of my head. He gave me a kick on the thigh at the same time. I felt none the worse for this rough treatment, but would not recommend it to others as a palliative in cases of fever! This last attack of fever was so obstiuate ; that it reduced me almost to a skeleton. The blanket which I used as a saddle on the back of the ox, being frequently wet, remained so beneath me even in the hot sun, and, aided by the heat of the ox, caused extensive abrasion of the skin, which was continually heaHng and getting sore again. To this incon- venience was now added the chafing of my projecting bones on the hard bed. On Friday we came to a village of civil people on the banks of the Loajima itself, and w^e were wet all day in consequence of crossing it. The bridges over it, and another stream which we crossed at mid-day, were submerged, as we have hitherto in- variably found, by a flood of perfectly clear water. At the second ford we were met by a hostile party who refused us further passage. I ordered my men to proceed in the same direction we had been pursuing, but our enemies spread themselves out in front of us with loud cries. Our numbers were about equal to theirs this time, so I moved on at the head of my men. Some ran off to other villages, or back to their own village, on pretence of getting ammunition ; others called out that all traders came to them, and that we must do the same. As these people had plenty of iron-headed arrows and some guns, when we came to the edge of the forest I ordered my men to put the luggage in our centre ; and, if our enemies did not fire, to cut down some young trees and make a screen as quickly as possible, but do nothing to them except in case of actual attack. I then dismounted, and, advancing a Httle towards our principal opponent, showed liim how easily I could kill him, but pointed upwards, saying, " I fear God." He did the same, placing his hand on his heart, pointing up- wards, and saying, I fear to kill ; but come to our village ; come — do come." At this juncture, the old headman, longa Panza, a Chap. XVIII. CONTINUED DEMANDS. 851 venerable negro, came up, and I invited him and all to be seated, that we might talk the matter over. longa Panza soon let us know that he thought himself very ill-treated in being passed by. As most skirmishes arise from misunderstanding, this might have been a serious one ; for, like all the tribes near the Portuguese settlements, people here imagine that they have a right to de- mand payment from every one who passes through the country ; and now, though longa Panza was certainly no match for my men, yet they were determined not to forego theu' right without a struggle. I removed with my men to the vicinity of the vil- lage, thankful that no accident had as yet brought us into actual collision. The reason why the people have imbibed the idea so strongly, that they have a right to demand payment for leave to pass through the countiy, is probably this. They have seen no traders except those either engaged in purchasing slaves, or who have slaves in their employment. These slave-traders have always been very much at the mercy of the chiefs thi-ough whose country they have passed ; for if they afforded a ready asylum for run- away slaves, the traders might be deserted at any moment, and stripped of their property altogether. They are thus obliged to curry favour with the chiefs, so as to get a safe conduct from them. The same system is adopted to induce the chiefs to part Avith their people, whom all feel to be the real source of their importance in the country. On the retm'u of the traders from the interior with chains of slaves, it is so easy for a cliief who may be so disposed to take away a chain of eight or ten unre- sistiag slaves, that the merchant is fain to give any amount of presents in order to secure the good wiU of the rulers. The inde- pendent chiefs, not knowing why their favour is so eagerly sought, become excessively proud and supercilious in their demands, and look upon white men with the greatest contempt. To such lengths did the Bangala, a tribe near to which we had now ap- proached, proceed, a few years ago, that they compelled the Portuguese traders to pay for water, wood, and even grass, and every possible pretext was invented for levying fines ; and these were patiently submitted to so long as the slave-trade continued to floiu*ish. We had unconsciously come in contact with a system which was quite unknown in the country fi'om which my men 352 VILLAGE OF lONGA PANZA. Chap. XYIII. had set out. An English trader may there hear a demand for payment of guides, but never, so far as I am aware, is he asked to pay for leave to traverse a country. The idea does not seem to have entered the native mind, except through slave- traders, for the aborigines all acknowledge that the untilled land, not needed for pasturage, belongs to God alone, and that no harm is done by people passing through it. I rather believe that, wherever the slave-trade has not penetrated, the visits of strangers are esteemed a real privilege. The village of old longa Panza (lat. 10° 25' S., long. 20° 15' E.) is small and embowered in lofty evergi-een trees, which were hung around with fine festoons of creepers. He sent us food immediately, and soon afterwards a goat, which was considered a handsome gift, there being but few domestic animals, though the country is well adapted for them. I suspect this, like the country of Shinte and Katema, must have been a tsetse district, and only recently rendered capable of supporting other domestic animals besides the goat, by the destruction of the game through the extensive introduction of fire-arms. We might all have been as ignorant of the existence of this insect-plague as the Portuguese, had it not been for the numerous migTations of pastoral tribes, which took place in the south in consequence of Zulu iiTuptions. During these exciting scenes I always forgot my fever, but a terrible sense of sinking came back with the feeling of safety. The same demand of payment for leave to pass, was made on the 20th by old longa Panza as by the other Chiboque. I offered the shell presented by Shinte, but longa Panza said he was too old for ornaments. We might have succeeded very well mth him, for he was by no means unreasonable, and had but a very small village of supporters ; but our two guides from Kangenke complicated our difficulties by sending for a body of Bangala traders, with a view to force us to sell the tusks of Sekeletu and pay them with the price. We offered to pay them handsomely, if they would perform their promise of guid- ing us to Cassange, but they knew no more of the paths than we did ; and my men had paid them repeatedly, and tried to get rid of them, but could not. They now joined with our enemies, and so did the traders. Two guns and some beads, belonging to the latter, were standing in our encampment, and Chap. XVIII. DISCOUEAGEMENTS. 353 the guides seized them and ran off. As my men knew that we should be called upon to replace them, they gave chase, and when the guides saw that they would be caught, they threw down the guns, directed their flight to the village, and rushed into a hut. The doorway is not much higher than that of a dog's kennel. One of the guides was reached by one of my men as he was in the act of stooping to get in, and a cut was inflicted on a projecting part of the body which would have made any one in that posture wince. The guns were restored, but the beads were lost in the flight. All I had remaining of my stock of beads could not replace those lost ; and though we explained that we had no part in the guilt of the act, the traders replied that we had brought the thieves into the country ; these were of the Bangala, who had been accustomed to plague the Portuguese in the most vexatious way. We were striving to get a passage through the country, and, feeling anxious that no crime whatever should be laid to our charge, tried the conciliatory plan here, though we were not, as in the other in- stances, likely to be overpowered by numbers. My men offered all their ornaments, and I offered all my beads and shu'ts ; but though we had come to the village against our will, and the guides had also followed us contrary to our desire, and had even sent for the Bangala traders without our knowledge or consent, yet matters could not be arranged without our giving an ox and one of the tusks. We were all becoming disheartened, and could not wonder that native expeditions from the interior to the coast had generally failed to reach their destinations. My people were now so much discouraged that some proposed to return home ; the prospect of being obliged to return when just on the threshold of the Portuguese settle- ments distressed me exceedingly. After using all my powers of persuasion, I declared to them that if they returned I would go on alone, and went into my little tent with the mind directed to Him who hears the sighing of the soul ; and was soon followed by the head of Mohorisi, saying — " We will never leave you. Do not be disheartened. Wherever you lead we will follow. Our remarks were made only on account of the injustice of these people." Others followed, and with the most artless simplicity of manner told me to be comforted — they were all 2 A 354 CURTAILING THE OXEN. Chap. XYIII. my children ; tliey Imew no one but Sekeletu and me, and they would die for me ; they had not fought because I did not wish it ; they had just spoken in the bitterness of their spirit, and when feeling that they could do nothing ; but if these enemies begin you will see what we can do." One of the oxen we offered to the Chiboque had been rejected because he had lost part of his tail, as they thought that it had been cut off and witchcraft medicine inserted ; and some mirth was excited by my proposing to raise a similar objection to all the oxen we still had in our possession. The remaining four soon presented a singular shortness of their caudal extremities, and though no one ever asked whether they had medicine in the stumps or no, we were no more troubled by the demand for an ox ! We now slaughtered another ox, that the spectacle might not be seen of the owners of the cattle fasting, while the Chiboque were feasting. Chap. XIX. GUIDES PKEPATD. 355 CHAPTEE XIX. Guides prepaid — Bark canoes — Deserted by guides — Mistakes respecting the Coanza — Feelings of freed slaves — Gardens and villages — Native traders — A grave — Valley of the Quango — Bamboo — "White larvse used as food — Bashinje insolence — A posing question — The chief Sansawe — His hostility — Pass him safely — The river Quango — Chiefs mode of dressing his hair — Opposition — Opportune aid by Cypriano — His gene- rous hospitality — Ability of half-castes to read and write — Books and images — Marauding party burned in the grass — Arrive at Cassange — A good supper — Kindness of Captain Neves — Portuguese curiosity and questions — Anniversary of the Resurrection — No prejudice against colour — Country around Cassange — Sell Sekeletu's ivory — Makololo's surprise at the high price obtained — Proposal to return home, and reasons — Sol- dier-guide— Hill Kasala— Tala Mungongo, village of — Civility of Ba- songo — True negroes — A field of wheat — Carriers — Sleeping-places — Fever — Enter district of Ambaca — Good fruits of Jesuit teaching — The tampan; its bite — Universal hospitality of the Portuguese — A tale of the Mambari — Exhilarating effects of highland scenery — District of Golungo Alto — Want of good roads — Fertility — Forests of gigantic timber — Native carpenters — Coffee estate — Sterility of country near the coast — Mosquitoes — Fears of the Makololo — Welcome by Mr. Gabriel to Loanda. 24^^. — loNGA Panza's sons agreed to act as guides into the territory of the Portuguese if I would give them the shell given by Shinte. I was strongly averse to this, and especially to give it beforehand; but yielded to the entreaty of my people to appear as if showing confidence in these hopeful youths. They urged that they wished to leave the shell with their ^\ ives, as a sort of payment to them for enduring their husbands' absence so long. Having delivered the precious shell, we went west- by-north to the river Chikapa, which here (lat. 10° 22' S.) is forty or fifty yards wide, and at present was deep ; it was seen flowing over a rocky broken cataract with great noise about haK a mile above our ford. We were ferried over in a canoe, made out of a single piece of bark sewed together at the ends, and having sticks placed in it at different parts to act as ribs. The word Chikapa means bark or skin ; and as this is the only river in which we saw this kind of canoe used, and we heard 2 A 2 356 DESERTED BY GUIDES. Chap. XIX. that this stream is so low during most of the year as to be easily fordable, it probably derives its name from the use. made of the bark canoes when it is in flood. We now felt the loss of our pontoon, for the people to whom the canoe belonged, made us pay once when we began to cross, then a second time when half of us were over, and a third time when all were over but my principal man Pitsane and myself. Loyanke took off liis cloth and paid my passage with it. The Makololo always ferried then- visitors over rivers without pay, and now began to remark that they must in future fleece the Mambari as these Cliiboque had done to us ; they had all been loud in condemna- tion of the meanness, and when I asked if they could descend to be equally mean, I was answered that they would only do it in revenge. They like to have a plausible excuse for meanness. Next morning our gTiides went only about a mile, and then told us they would return home. I expected this when paying them beforehand, m accordance mth the entreaties of the Makololo, who are rather ignorant of the world. Very energetic remon- strances were addressed to the guides, but they sKpped off one by one in the thick forest tlu*ough which we were passing, and I was glad to hear my companions coming to the conclusion, that, as we were now in parts visited by traders, we did not require the guides, whose chief use had been to prevent misapprehension of our objects in the minds of the villagers. The country was somewhat more undulating now than it had been, and several fine small streams flowed in deep woody dells. The trees are very tall and straight, and the forests gloomy and damp ; the ground in these solitudes is quite covered mth yellow and brown mosses, and light-coloured lichens clothe all the trees. The soil is extremely fertile, being generally a black loam covered with a thick crop of tall grasses. We passed several villages too. The headman of a large one scolded us well for passmg, when he intended" to give us food. Wliere slave-traders have been in the habit of coming, they present food, then demand three or four times its value as a custom. We were now rather glad to get past villages without intercourse with the inhabitants. We were travelling W.N.W., and aU the ri^^lets we here crossed had a northerly course, and were reported to fall into the Kasai or Loke ; most of them had the peculiar boggy banks of Chap. XIX. FEELINGS OF FREED SLAVES. 357 the country. As we were now in the alleged latitude of the Coanza, I was much astonished at the entire absence of any knowledge of that river among the natives of this quarter. But I was then ignorant of the fact that the Coanza rises considerably to the west of this, and has a comparatively short course from its source to the sea. The famous Dr. Lacerda seems to have laboured under the same mistake as myself, for he recommended the government of Angola to establish a chain of forts along the banks of that river, with, a view to communication -s^-ith the opposite coast. As a chain of forts along its course would lead southwards instead of eastwards, we may infer that the geographical data ^^ithin reach of that eminent man, were no better than those according to which I had dii-ected my course to the Coanza where it does not exist. 26th. — We spent Sunday on the banks of the Quilo, or Kweelo ; here a stream of about ten yards wide. It runs in a deep glen, the sides of which are almost five hundred yards of slope, and rock}^, the rocks being hardened calcareous tufa lying on clay shale and sandstone below, with a capping of ferruginous conglomerate. The scenery would have been very pleasing, but fever took away much of the joy of life, and severe daily inter- mittents rendered me very weak and always glad to rechne. As we were now in the slave-market, it struck me that the sense of insecurity felt by the natives, might account for the circumstance that those who have been sold as slaves, and freed again, when questioned, profess to like the new state better than their primitive one. They lived on rich fertile plains, which seldom inspire that love of country which the mountains do. If they had been mountaineers they would have pined for home. To one who has observed the hard toil of the poor in old civilized countries, the state in which the inhabitants here live is one of glorious ease. The country is fuU of little villages. Food aboimds, and very Httle labour is required for its cultivation; the soil is so rich that no manure is required ; when a garden becomes too poor for good crops of maize, millet, &c., the owner removes a little farther into the forest, applies fire round the roots of the larger trees to kill them, cuts down the smaller, and a new rich garden is ready for the seed. The gardens usually present 358 GARDENS AND VILLAGES. Chap. XIX. the appearance of a great number of tall dead trees standing without bark, and maize growing between them. The old gardens continue to yield manioc for years, after the owners have removed to other spots, for the sake of millet and maize. But while vegetable aliment is abundant, there is a want of salt and animal food, so that numberless traps are seen, set for mice, in all the forests of Londa. The vegetable diet leaves great craving for flesh, and I have no doubt, but that, when an ordinary quan- tity of mixed food is suppHed to freed slaves, they actually do feel more comfortable than they did at home. Their assertions, however, mean but httle, for they always try to give an answer to please, and if one showed them a nugget of gold, they would generally say that these abounded in their country. One could detect, in passing, the variety of character found among the owners of gardens and villages. Some villages were the pictures of neatness. We entered others enveloped in a wilderness of weeds, so high that, when sitting on ox-back in the middle of the village, we could only see the tops of the huts. If we entered at midday, the owners would come lazily forth, pipe in hand, and leisurely puff away in dreamy indifference. In some villages weeds are not allowed to grow ; cotton, tobacco, and different plants used as rehshes, are planted round the huts ; fowls are kept in cages, and the gardens present the pleasant spectacle of different kinds of grain and pulse at various periods of their growth. I sometimes admired the one class, and at times wished I could have taken the world easy for a time, like the other. Every village swarms with children, who turn out to see the white man pass, and run along mth strange cries and antics ; some run up trees to get a good view: aU are agile climbers throughout Londa. At friendly villages they have scampered alongside our party for miles at a time. We usually made a little hedge around our sheds; crowds of women came to the entrance of it, mth children on their backs, and long pipes in their mouths, gazing at us for hours. The men, rather than disturb them, crawled through a hole in the hedge, and it was common to hear a man in running off say to them, " I am going to tell my mama to come and see the white man's oxen." In continuing our W.N.W. course, we met many parties of native traders, each carrying some pieces of cloth and salt, with CiiAP. XIX. TRADERS— A GRAVE. 359 a few beads to barter for bees'-wax. They are all armed mtli Portuguese guns, and have cartridges \rith iron balls. When we meet, we usually stand a few minutes. They present a little salt, and we give a bit of ox-hide, or some other trifle, and then part with mutual good ^vishes. The hide of the oxen we slaughtered had been a valuable addition to our resources, for we found it in so great repute for girdles aU through Londa, that we cut up every skin into strips about two inches broad, and sold them for meal and manioc as we went along. As we came nearer Angola we found them of less value, as the people there possess cattle themselves. The village on the Kweelo, at which we spent Sunday, was that of a civH, lively old man, called Sakandala, who offered no objections to our progress. We found we should soon enter on the territory of the Bashinj^ (Chinge of the Portuguese), who are mixed with another tribe, named Bangala, which have been at war with the Babindele or Portuguese. Eains and fever, as usual, helped to impede om* progress untd we were put on the path, which leads from Cassange and Bihe to Matiamvo, by a headman named Kamboela. This was a well-beaten footpath, and, soon after entering upon it, we met a party of half-caste traders from. BHie, who confirmed the information we had already got of this path leading straight to Cassange, through which they had come on then way from BHie to Cabango. They kindly presented my men vdth. some tobacco, and marvelled greatly when they found that I had never been able to teach myself to smoke. On parting with them we came to a trader's gTave. This was marked by a huge cone of sticks placed in the form of the roof of a hut, A\ith a paHsade around it. At an opening on the western side an ugly idol was placed : several strings of beads and bits of cloth were hung around. We learned that he had been a half-caste, who had died on his way back from Matiamvo. As we were now alone, and sure of being on the way to the abodes of civilisation, we went on brisldy. On the 30th we came to a sudden descent from the high land, indented by deep, narrow valleys, over which we had lately been travelling. It is generally so steep, that it can only be descended at particular points, and even there I was obhged to dismount, 360 VALLEY OF THE QUANGO. Chap. XIX. though so weak that I had to be led by my companions to pre- vent my toppling over in walking down. It was annoying to feel myself so helpless, for I never Liked to see a man, either sick or well, giving in effeminately. Below us lay the valley of the Quango. If you sit on the spot where Mary Queen of Scots viewed the battle of Langside, and look down on the vale of Clyde, you may see in miniature the glorious sight which a much greater and richer valley presented to our view. It is about a hundred miles broad, clothed with dark forest, except where the Kght-green grass covers meadow-lands on the Quango, which here and there glances out in the sun as it wends its way to the north. The opposite side of tliis great vaUey appears Like a range of lofty moimtains, and the descent into it about a mile, which, measured perpendicularly, may be from a thousand to twelve hundred feet. Emerging from the gloomy forests of Londa, this magnificent prospect made us aU feel as if a weight had been lifted off our eyehds. A cloud was passing across the middle 'of the vaUey, from which rolling thunder pealed, while above aLl was glorious sunlight ; and when we went down to the part where we saw it passing, we found that a very heavy thunder-shower had fallen under the path of the cloud : and the bottom of the valley, which from above seemed quite smooth, we discovered to be intersected and furrowed by great numbers of deep-cut streams. Looking back from below, the descent appears as the edge of a table-land, with numerous indented deUs and spurs jutting out all along, giving it a serrated appearance. Both the top and sides of the sierra are covered with trees, but large patches of the more perpendicular parts are bare, and exhibit the red soil, which is general over the region we have now entered. The hollow affords a section of this part of the country ; and we find that the uppermost stratum is the ferruginous conglo- merate abeady mentioned. The matrix is rust of iron (or hydi'ous peroxide of iron and haematite), and in it are embedded water-worn pebbles of sandstone and quartz. As tliis is the rock underlying the soil of a large part of Londa, its formation must have preceded the work of denudation by an arm of the sea, which washed away the enormous mass of matter required, before the vaUey of Cassange could assume its present form. The strata under the conglomerate are all of red clay shale of different Chap. XIX, THE BAMBOO. 361 degrees of hardness, the most indurated being at the bottom. This red clay shale is named " keele " in Scotland, and has always been considered as an indication of gold ; but the only thing we discovered was, that it had given rise to a very slippery clay soil, so different from that which we had just left, that Mashauana, who always prided himself on being an adept at balancing himself in the canoe on water, and so sure of foot on land that he could afford to express contempt for any one less gifted, came down in a very sudden and undignified manner, to the dehght of aU whom he had previously scolded for falling. Here we met with the bamboo as thick as a man's arm,- and many new trees. Others, which we had lost sight of since leaving Shinte, now re-appeared; but notliing struck us more than the comparative scragginess of the trees in tliis hoUow. Those on the high lands we had left were tall and straight ; here they were stunted, and not by any means so closely planted together. The only way I could account for this was by sup- posing, as the trees were of different species, that the greater altitude suited the nature of those above, better than the lower altitude did the other species below. Sunday, 2nd April. — We rested beside a small stream, and our hunger being now very severe, from having Hved on manioc alone since leaving Tonga Panza's, we slaughtered one of our four remaining oxen. The people of this district seem to feel the craving for animal food as much as we did, for they spend much energy in digging large white larvae out of the damp soil adjacent to their streams, and use them as a rehsh for their vegetable diet. The Bashinje refused to seU any food for the poor old ornaments my men had now to offer. We could get neither meal nor manioc ; but should have been comfortable, had not the Bashinje chief Sansawe pestered us for the customary present. The native traders informed us, that a display of force was often necessary before they could pass this man. Sansawe, the chief of a portion of the Bashinje, having sent the usual formal demand for a man, an ox, or a tusk, spoke very contemptuously of the poor things we offered him instead. We told his messengers, that the tusks were Sekeletu's : everything was gone, except my instruments, which could be of no use to them whatever. One of them begged some meat, and, when it 362 THE CHIEF SANSAWE. Chap. XIX. was refused, said to my men, " You may as well give it, for we shall take all after we have killed you to-morrow." The more humbly we spoke, the more insolent the Bashinje became, till at last we were all feelmg savage and sulky, but continued to speak as civilly as we could. They are fond of argument, and when I denied their right to demand tribute from a white man, who did not trade in slaves, an old white-headed negro put rather a posing question : You know that God has placed chiefs among us whom we ought to support. How is it that you, who have a book that tells you about him, do not come forward at once to pay this chief tribute, like every one else ? " I repHed by asking, " How could I know that this was a chief, who had allowed me to remain a day and a half near him without giving me anything to eat ? " This, which to the uninitiated may seem sophistry, was, to the central Africans, quite a rational question, for he at once admitted that food ought to have been sent, and added, that probably his chief was only making it ready for me, and that it would come soon. After being wearied by talking all day to different parties sent by Sansawe, we were honom^ed by a visit from himself: he is quite a young man, and of rather a pleasing countenance. There cannot have been much intercourse between real Portuguese and these people even here, so close to the Quango, for Sansawe asked me to show him my hair, on the ground that, though he had heard of it, and some white men had even passed through his country, he had never seen straight hair before. This is quite possible, as most of the slave-traders are not Portuguese, but half- castes. The difference between their wool and our hair, caused him to burst into a laugh, and the contrast between the ex230sed and unexposed parts of my skiu, when exhibited in e^ddence of our all being made of one stock origiually, and the children of one Maker, seemed to strike him with wonder. I then showed liim my watch, and wished to win my way into his confidence by conversation; but when about to exliibit my pocket compass he desfred me to desist, as he was afraid of my wonderful things. I told him, if he knew my aims, as the tribes in the interior did, and as I hoped he would yet know them and me, he would be glad to stay, and see also the pictures of the magic lantern; but as it was now getting dark he had e\ddently got enough of my witchery, and began to use some charms to dispel Chap. XIX. HOSTILITY OF THE BASHINJE. 363 any kindly feelings he might have found stealing round his heart. He asked leave to go, and when his party moved off a little way, he sent for my spokesman, and told him that, " if we did not add a red jacket and a man, to our gift of a few copper rings and a few pounds of meat, we must return by the way we had come." I said in reply, that we should certainly go forward next day, and if he commenced hostilities, the blame before God would be that of Sansawe ; " and my man added of liis own accord, " How many white men have you killed in this path ? " which might be inter- preted into, " You have never killed any white man, and you will find ours more difficult to manage than you imagine." It ex- pressed a determinatign, which we had often repeated to each other, to die rather than yield one of our party to be a slave. Hunger has a powerful effect on the temper. When we had got a good meal of meat, we could all bear the petty annoyances of these borderers on the more civilized region in front, with equani- mity ; but having suffered considerably of late, we were all rather soui-ed in our feelings, and not unfrequently I overheard my companions remark in their own tongue, in answer to threats of attack, " That's what we want — only begin then ; " or with clenched teeth they would exclaim to each other, " These things have never travelled, and do not know what men are." The wonying, of which I give only a sHght sketch, had considerable influence on my own mind, and more especially, as it was im- possible to make any allowance for the Bashinje, such as I was willing to award to the Chiboque. They saw that we had nothing to give, nor would they be benefited in the least, by enforcing the impudent order to return whence we had come. They were adding insult to injury, and this put us all into a fighting spiiit, and, as nearly as we could judge, we expected to be obKged to cut our way through the Bashinje next mornmg. Srd April. — As soon as day dawned we were astir, and, set- ting off in a drizzling rain, passed close to the village. This rain probably damped the ardour of the robbers. We, how- ever, expected to be fired upon from every clump of trees, or from some of the rocky hillocks among which we were passing ; and it was only after two hours' march that we began to breathe freely, and my men remarked, in thankfulness, " We are children of Jesus." We continued om- course, notwithstanding the rain. 364 THE QUANGO. Chap. XIX. across the bottom of the Quango valley, which we found broken by clay shale rocks jutting out, though lying nearly horizontally. The grass in all the hollows, at this time quite green, was about two feet higher than my head wliile sitting on ox-back. This grass, wetted by the raia, acted as a shower-bath on one side of our bodies ; and some deep gullies, fidl of discoloured water, com- pleted the cooKng process. We passed many viQages during this drenching, one of which possessed a flock of sheep ; and after six hours we came to a stand near the river Quango (lat. 9° 53' S., long. 18° 37' E.), which may be called the boundary of the Portuguese claims to territory on the west. As I had now no change of clothing, I was glad to cower under the shelter of my blanket, thankful to God for his goodness iu bringiDg us so far, without losiog one of the party. 4ith April. — We were now on the banks of the Quango, a river one hundred and fifty yards wide, and very deep. The water was discoloured — a circumstance wliich we had observed in no river in Londa or in the Makololo country. This fine river flows among extensive meadows clothed with gigantic grass and reeds, and in a direction nearly north. The Quango is said by the natives to contain many venomous water-snakes, which congregate near the carcase of any hippo- potamus that may be killed ia it. If this is true, it may account for all the viQages we saw, beiQg situated far from its banks. We were advised not to sleep near it ; but, as we were anxious to cross to the western side, we tried to induce some of the Bashinje to lend us canoes for the purpose. This brought out the chief of these parts, who informed us that all the canoe-men were his children, and nothing could be done mthout his authority. He then made the usual demand for a man, an ox, or a gun, addiug that otherwise, we must return to the country from which we had come. As I did not beheve that this man had any power over the canoes of the other side, and suspected that if I gave him my blanket — the only thing I now had in reserve — ^he might leave us in the lurch after all, I tried to persuade my men to go at once to the bank, about two miles off, and obtain possession of the canoes before we gave up the blanket ; but they thought that this chief might attack us ia the act of crossing, should we do so. The chief came himself to om* encampment and made his Chap. XIX. OPPORTUNE AID. 365 demand again. My men stripped off the last of their copper rings and gave them ; but he was still intent on a man. He thought, as others did, that my men were slaves. He was a young man, with his wooUy hair elaborately dressed : that behind was made up into a cone, about eight inches in diameter at the base, care- fully swathed round with red and black thread. As I resisted Basliinje chiefs mode of wearing the hair. the proposal to deKver up my blanket until they had placed us on the western bank, this cliief continued to worry us vdih liis demands till I was tired. My little tent was now in tatters, and having a wader hole behind than the door in front, I tried in vain to lie down out of sight of our persecutors. We were on a reedy flat, and could not follow our usual plan of a small stockade, in which we had time to think over and concoct our plans. As I was trying to persuade my men to move on to the bank in spite of these people, a young half-caste Portuguese sergeant of mihtia, Cypriano di Abreu, made his appearance, and gave the same advice. He had come across the Quango in search of bees'-wax. "When we moved off from the chief who had been plaguing us, his people opened a fire from our sheds, and continued to blaze away some time in the direction w^e were going, but none of the buUets reached us. It is probable that they expected a demon- 3G6 CYPRIANO'S GENEEOUS HOSPITALITY. Chap. XIX. stration of the abundance of ammunition they possessed, would make us run ; but when we continued to move quietly to the ford, they proceeded no farther than our sleeping-place. Cypriano assisted us in making a more satisfactory arrangement with the ferrymen than parting with my blanket; and as soon as we reached the opposite bank, we were in the territory of the Ban- gala, who are subjects of the Portuguese, and often spoken of as the Cassanges or Cassantse ; and happily all our difficulties with the border tribes were at an end. Passing with Hght hearts through the high grass by a narrow footpath for about three miles to the west of the river, we came to several neat square houses with many cleanly-looking half-caste Portuguese standing in front of them to salute us. They are all enrolled in the militia, and our friend Cypriano is the commander of a division established here. The Bangala were very trouble- some to the Portuguese traders, and at last proceeded so far as to kill one of them ; the government of Angola then sent an expe- dition against them, which being successful, the Bangala were dispersed, and are now returning to their former abodes as vassals. The militia are quartered amongst them, and engage in trade and agriculture for their support, as no pay is given to this branch of the service by the government. We came to the dwelling of Cypriano after dark, and I pitched my Httle tent in front of it for the night. We had the company of mosquitoes here. We never found them troublesome on the banks of the pure streams of Londa. On the morning of the 5th Cypriano generously supplied my men with pumpkins and maize, and then invited me to breakfast, which consisted of ground-nuts and roasted maize, then boiled manioc-roots and ground-nuts, with guavas and honey as a dessert. I felt sincerely grateful for this magnificent breakfast. At dinner Cypriano was equally bountiful, and several of his friends joined us in doing justice to his hospitahty. Before eating, all had water poured on the hands by a female slave to wash them. One of the guests cut up a fowl with a knife and fork. Neither forks nor spoons were used in eating. The repast was partaken of with decency and good manners, and concluded by washing the hands as at fii'st. All of them could read and write with ease. I examined the Chap. XTX. BOOKS AXD IMAGES. 3G7 books they possessed, and found a small work on medicine, a small cyclopaedia, and a Portuguese dictionary, in which the definition of a " priest " seemed strange to a Protestant, namely, " one who takes care of the conscience." They had also a few tracts containing the Lives of the Saints, and Cypriano had three small wax imasres of saiuts in his room. One of these was St. Anthony, who, had he endured the privations he did in liis cell in looking after these lost sheep, would have lived to better pur- pose. Neither Cypriano nor his companions knew what the Bible was, but they had reKcs in German-silver cases himg round their necks, to act as chaims and save them from danger by land or by water, in the same way as the heathen have medicines. It is a pity that the church to which they belong, when unable to attend to the wants of her cliildren, does not give them the sacred writings in their own tongue ; it would surely be better to see them good Protestants, if these would lead them to be so, than entirely ignorant of God's message to man. For my part, I would much prefer to see the Africans good Eoman Catholics, than idolatrous heathen. Much of the civihty shown to us here was, no doubt, owing to the flattering letters of recommendation I carried from the Che- valier Du Prat, of Cape Town ; but I am inclined to believe, that my friend Cj^riano was influenced too by feelings of genuine kindness, for he quite bared his garden in feeding us during the few days wliich I remained, anxiously expecting the clouds to disperse, so far as to allow of my taking observations for the deter- mination of the position of the Quango. He slaughtered an ox for us, and famished his mother and her maids with manioc- roots, to prepare farina for the four or five days of our journey to Cassange, and never even hinted at payment My wTotched appearance must have excited his compassion. The farina is prepared by washing the roots well, then rasping them down to a pulp. Next, this is roasted slightly on a metal plate over a fire, and is then used with meat as a vegetable. It closely resembles wood sawings, and on that account is named " wood-meal." It is insipid, and employed to Hck up any gravy remaining on one's plate. Those who have become accustomed to it, relish it even after they have returned to Europe. The manioc cultivated here is of the sweet variety : the bitter. 368 ARRIVAL AT CASSANGE. Chap. XIX. to wliicli we were accustomed in Londa, is not to be found very extensively in this fertile valley. May is the beginning of winter, yet many of the inhabitants were busy planting maize; that wliich we were now eating was planted in the beginning of February. The soil is exceedingly fertile, of a dark red colour, and covered with such a dense heavy crop of coarse grass, that when a marauding party of Ambonda once came for plunder while it was in a dried state, the Bangala encircled the common enemy with a fii-e which completely destroyed them. This, which is related on the authority of Portuguese who were then in the country, I can easily believe to be true, for the stalks of the grass are generally as thick as goose-quills, and no flight could be made through the mass of grass in any direction where a foot- path does not exist. Probably, in the case mentioned, the direc- tion of the wind was such, as to drive the flames across the paths, and prevent escape along them. On one occasion I nearly lost my waggon by fire, in a valley where the grass was only about three feet high. We were roused by the roar, as of a torrent, made by the fii'e coming from the windward. I immediately set fire to that on our leeward, and had just time to drag the waggon on to the bare space there, before the windward flames reached the place where it had stood. We were detained by rains, and a desire to ascertain our geographical position, till Monday the 10th, and only got the latitude 9° 50' S. ; and after three days' pretty hard travelling through the long grass, reached Cassange, the farthest inland station of the Portuguese in Western Africa. We crossed several fine little streams running into the Quango ; and as the grass continued to tower about two feet over our heads, it generally obstructed our view of the adjacent country, and sometimes hung over the path, making one side of the body wet with the dew every morning, or when it rained kept me wet during the whole day. I made my entrance, in a somewhat forlorn state as to clothing, among our Portuguese alHes. The fii'st gentleman I met in the village asked if I had a passport, and said, it was necessary to take me before the authorities. As I was in the same state of mind, in which individuals are, who commit a petty de- predation, in order to obtain the shelter and food of a prison, I gladly accompanied him to the house of the Commandant or Chap. XIX. ^t:getable peoductioxs. 369 Chefe, Senlior de Silva Kego. Ha\Tng sliown my passport to tliis gentleman, he politely asked me to supper, and as we had eaten nothing except the farina of Cypriano from the Quango to this, I suspect I appeared particularly ravenous to the other gentlemen around the table. They seemed, however, to imderstand my position pretty well, from having all travelled extensively them- selves ; had they not been present, I might have put some in my pocket to eat by night, for, after fever, the appetite is excessively keen, and manioc is one of the most unsatisfyhig kinds of food. Captain Antonio Eodrigues Neves then kindly invited me to take up my abode in his house. Next morning tliis generous man arrayed me in decent clothing, and contiaued during the whole period of my stay to treat me as if I had been his brother. I feel deeply grateful to him for his disiaterested kindness ; he not only attended to my wants, but also furnished food for my famishing party free of charge. The village of Cassange (pronoimced Kassanje) is composed of thirty or forty traders' houses, scattered about without any regu- larity, on an elevated flat spot in the great Quango or Cassange valley. They are bmlt of wattle and daub, and smTounded by plantations of manioc, maize, &c. Belmid them, there are usually kitchen gai'dens, in which the common European vegetables, as potatoes, peas, cabbages, onions, tomatoes, &c. &c., grow. Guavas and bananas appear, from the size and abimdance of the trees, to have been iatroduced many years ago, wliile the land was stiQ ui the possession of the natives, but pine-apples, orange, fig, and cashew- trees have but lately been tried. There are about forty Portuguese traders in this district, all of whom are officers in the mihtia, and many of them have become rich from adopting the plan of sending out Pombeiros, or native traders, with large quantities of goods, to trade in the more remote parts of the comitry. Some of the governors of Loanda, the capital of this, the kingdom of Angola, have insisted on the observance of a law which, from motives of humanity, forbids the Portuguese themselves from passing beyond the boundary. They seem to have taken it for granted, that, in cases where the white trader was killed, the aggression had been made by him, and they \^ished to avoid the necessity of punishing those who had been provoked to shed Portuguese blood. Tliis iadicates a much greater impartiality 2 B 370 PORTUGUESE CURIOSITY. Chap. XIX. than has obtained in our o\vn dealings with the Caffres, for we have engaged in most expensive wars with them without once inquu'ing whether any of the fault lay with our frontier colonists. The Cassange traders seem inclined to spread along the Quango, in sjDite of the deshe of then* government to keep them on one spot, for mutual protection in case of war. If I might judge from the week of feasting I passed among them, they are generally prosperous. ' As I always preferred to appear in my own proper character, I was an object of curiosity to these hospitable Portuguese. They evidently looked upon me as an agent of the English Government, engaged in some new movement for the suppression of slavery. They could not divine what a " missionario " had to do with the latitudes and longitudes, which I was intent on ob- serving. When we became a httle familiar, the questions put were rather amusing, " Is it common for missionaries to be doctors ?" " Are you a doctor of medicine and a ^ doutor mathema- tico' too ? You must be more than a missionary to know how to calculate the longitude ! Come ; tell us at once what rank you hold in the English army." They may have given credit to my reason for wearing the moustache, as that explains why men have beards and women have none; but that which puzzled many besides my Cassange friends was the anomaly of my being a " sacerdote," with a wife and four children ! I usually got rid of the last question by putting another, " Is it not better to have children with a wife, than to have children mthout a wife?" But all were most kind and hospitable, and as one of their festivals was near, they invited me to partake of the feast. The anniversary of the Eesurrection of our Saviour was ob- served on the 16th April as a day of rejoicing, though the Portu- guese have no priests at Cassange. The coloured population dressed up a fig-ure intended to represent Judas Iscariot, and paraded him on a riding-ox about the village ; sneers and male- dictions were freely bestowed on the poor wretch thus represented. The slaves and free coloured population, dressed in tlieh gayest clotliing, made visits to aU the principal merchants, and wishing them "a good feast," expected a present in return. Tliis, though, frequently granted in the shape of pieces of cahco to make new Chap. XIX. NO PREJUDICE AGAINST COLOUR. 371 dresses, was occasionally refused, but the rebuff did not much affect the petitioner. At ten A.M. we went to the residence of the Commandant, and on a signal being given, two of the four brass guns belonging to the Government, commenced firing, and continued some time, to the great admiration of my men, whose ideas of the power of a cannon are very exalted. Tlie Portuguese flag was hoisted and trumpets sounded, as an expression of joy at the resurrection of our Lord. Captain Neves invited all the principal inhabitants of the place, and did what he could to feast them in a princely style. All manner of foreign preserved fruits and wine from Portugal, biscuits from America, butter fi:om Cork, and beer from England, were displayed, and no expense spared in rendering the enter- tainment joyous. After the feast was over they sat down to the common amusement of card-playing, which continued till eleven o'clock at night. As far as a mere traveller could judge, they seemed to be pohte and willing to aid each other. They live in a febrile district, and many of them had enlarged sj)leens. They have neither doctor, apothecary, school, nor priest, and, when taken ill, trust to each other and to Providence. As men left in such circumstances must think for themselves, they have all a good idea of what ought to be done in the common diseases of the country, and what they have of either medicine or skill, they freely impart to each other. None of these gentlemen had Portuguese wives. They usually come to Africa, in order to make a Kttle money, and return to Lisbon. Hence they seldom bring then* wives with them, and never can be successful colonists in consequence. It is common for them to have families by native women. It was particularly gratifying to me, who had been famihar with the stupid prejudice against colour, entertained only by those who are themselves becoming tawny, to view the HberaHty with which people of colour were treated by the Portuguese. Instances, so common in the south, in which half-caste children are abandoned, are here extremely rare. They are acknowledged at table, and provided for by their fathers, as if European. The coloured clerks of the merchants sit at the same table with their employers, without any embarrassment. The civil manners of superiors to inferiors is probably the result of the position they occupy — a few whites 2 B 2 372 COUNTRY AROUND CASSANGE. Chap. XIX. among thousands of blacks ; but nowhere else in Africa is there so much goodwill between Europeans and natives as here. If some border colonists had the absolute certainty of our Govern- ment declining to bear them out in their arrogance, we should probably hear less of Caffre insolence. It is insolence which begets insolence. From the village of Cassange we have a good view of the sur- rounding country : it is a gently undulating plain, covered with grass and patches of forest. The western edge of the Quango valley appears about twenty miles off as if it were a range of lofty mountains, and passes by the name of Tala Mungongo, Behold the range." In the old Portuguese map, to wliich I had been trusting in planning my route, it is indicated as Talla Mugongo, or " Castle of rocJcs ! " and the Coanza is put down as rising there- from ; but here I was assured that the Coanza had its source near Bihe, far to the south-west of this, and we should not see that river till we came near Pungo Andongo. It is somewhat remarkable, that more accurate information about tliis country has not been published. Captain Neves and others had a correct idea of the courses of the rivers, and communicated their knowledge freely ; yet about tliis time, maps were sent to Europe from Angola repre- senting the Quango and Coanza as the same river, and Cassange placed about one hundred miles from its true position. The fre- quent recurrence of the same name, has probably helped to increase the confusion. I have crossed several Quangos, but all insignificant, except that which di-ains this valley. The repeti- tion of the favourite names of chiefs, as Catende, is also per- plexing, as one Catende may be mistaken for another. To avoid this confusion as much as possible, I have refrained from intro- ducing many names. Niunerous villages are studded all over the vaUey; but these possess no permanence, and many more existed previous to the Portuguese expedition of 1850 to punish the Bangala. This valley, as I have before remarked, is aU fertile in the extreme. My men could never cease admh-ing its capability for raising their com {Holms sorghum), and despising the compara- tively Hmited cultivation of the inhabitants. The Portuguese informed me that no manm-e is ever needed, but that the more the ground is tilled, the better it yields. Vfrgin soil does not give Chap. XIX. SALE OF IVORY. 373 such a heavy crop as an old garden, and, judging from the size of the maize and manioc in the latter, I can readily beheve the statement. Cattle do well, too. Yiemng the valley as a whole, it may be said that its agricultural and pastoral riches are h^ng waste. Both the Portuguese and their descendants turn their attention almost exclusively to trade in wax and ivory, and though the country would peld any amount of corn and dauy produce, the native Portuguese Hve chiefly on manioc, and the Europeans purchase their flour, bread, butter, and cheese from the Americans. As the traders of Cassange were the first white men we had come to, we sold the tusks belonging to Sekeletu, wliich had been brought to test the difference of prices in the Makololo and wliite men's country. The result was highly satisfactory to my com- panions, as the Portuguese give much larger prices for ivory than traders from the Cape can possibly give, who labour under the disadvantage of considerable overland expenses and ruinous re- strictions. Two muskets, tlu-ee small barrels of gimpowder, and English cahco and baize sufficient to clothe my whole party, with. large bunches of beads, all for one tusk, were quite delightful for those who had been accustomed to give two tusks for one gun. With another tusk we procured caHco, which here is the chief currency, to pay our way down to the coast. The remaining two were sold for money to pm^chase a horse for Sekeletu at Loanda. The superiority of this new market was quite astounding to the Makololo, and they began to abuse the traders by whom they had, while in their own comitry, been visited, and, as they now declared, " cheated." They had no idea of the value of time and caiTiage, and it was somewhat difficult for me to convince them, that the reason of the difference of prices lay entirely in what they themselves had done ia coming here, and that, if the Portu- guese should carry goods to their country, they would by no means be so hberal in their prices. They imagined that, if the Cassange traders came to Linyanti, they would contuiue to vend their goods at Cassange prices. I beheve I gave them at last a clear idea of the manner in which prices were regulated by the expences incurred ; and when we went to Loanda, and saw goods delivered at a still cheaper rate, they concluded that it would be better for them to come to that city, than to turn homewards at Cassange. 374 DEPAKrURE FEOM CASSANGE. Chap. XIX. It was interesting for me to observe the effects of the restric- tive poKcy, pursued by the Cape government towards the Bechu- anas. Like all other restrictions on trade, the law of preventing friendly tribes from purchasing arms and ammunition, only in- jures the men who enforce it. The Cape Government, as already observed, in order to gratify a company of independent Boers, whose well-known predilection for the practice of slavery caused them to stipulate, that a number of peaceable honest tribes should be kept defenceless, agreed to allow free trade in arms and ammu- nition to the Boers, and prevent the same trade to the Bechuanas. The Cape Government thereby unintentionally aided, and con- tinues to aid, the Boers to enslave the natives. But arms and ammunition flow in on aU sides by new channels, and where formerly the price of a large tusk procured but one musket, one tusk of the same size now brings ten. The profits are reaped by other nations, and the only persons really the losers, in the long run, are our own Cape merchants, and a few defenceless tribes of Bechuanas on om- immediate frontier. Mr. Kego, the Commandant,^ very handsomely offered me a soldier as a guard to Ambaca. My men told me that they had been thinking it would be better to turn back here, as they had been informed by the people of colour at Cassange that I was leading them down to the sea-coast only to sell them, and they would be taken on board ship, fattened, and eaten, as the white men were cannibals. I asked if they had ever heard of an Englishman buying or selling people ; if I had not refused to take a slave when she was offered to me by Shinte; but as I had always behaved as an Enghsh teacher, if they now doubted my intentions, they had better not go to the coast : I, however, who expected to meet some of my countrymen there, was determined to go on. They repHed that they only thought it right to tell me what had been told to them, but they did not intend to leave me, and would follow wherever I should lead the way. This affair being disposed of for the time, the Commandant gave them an ox, and me a fr-iendly dinner before parting. All the mer- chants of Cassange accompanied us, m their hammocks carried by slaves, to the edge of the plateau on which their village stands, and we parted with the feeling in my mind that I should never forget their disinterested kindness. They not only did everything Chap. XIX. A SOLDIEE-GUIDE. 375 they could to make my men and me comfortable during our stay, but, there being no hotels in Loanda, they furnished me with letters of recommendation to their friends in that city, requesting them to receive me into their houses, for without these, a stranger might find himself a lodger in the streets. May God remember them in their day of need ! The latitude and longitude of Cassange, the most easterly station of the Portuguese in Western Africa, is lat. 9° 37' 30" S., and long. 17° 49' E. ; consequently we had still about 300 miles to ti'averse before we could reach the coast. We had a black mihtia corporal as a guide. He was a native of Ambaca, and, like nearly all the inliabitants of that district, kno^Ti by the name of Ambakistas, could both read and write. He had three slaves with him, and was carried by them in a " tipoia," or hammock slung to a pole. His slaves were young, and unable to convey him far at a time, but he was considerate enough to walk except when we came near to a village. He then mounted his tipoia and entered the village in state ; his departure was made in the same manner, and he continued in the hammock till the village was out of sight. It was interesting to observe the manners of our soldier-guide. Two slaves were always employed in carrying his tipoia, and the third carried a wooden box, about three feet long, containing his writing materials, dishes, and clothing. He was cleanly in all his ways, and, though quite black himself, when he scolded any one of his own colour, abused him as a " negro." When he wanted to purchase any article from a village, he would sit down, mix a little gunpowder as ink, and write a note in a neat hand to ask the price, addressing it to the shopkeeper with the rather pom- pous title, " Illustrissimo Senhor" (Most Illustrious Sir). This is the invariable mode of address throughout Angola. The answer returned would be in the same style, and, if satisfactory, another note followed to conclude the bargain. There is so much of this note correspondence carried on in Angola, that a very large quantity of paper is annually consumed. Some othei' pecuharities of om* g-uide were not so pleasing. A land of slaves is a bad school for even the free ; and I was sorry to find less truthfulness and honesty in him, than in my own people. We were often cheated through his connivance with the sellers of food, and could perceive that he got a share of the plunder from 376 HILL KASALA. Chap. XLS. them. The food is very cheap, but it was generally made dear enough, until I refused to allow him to come near the place where Ave were bargaining. But he took us safely down to Ambaca, and I was glad to see, on my return to Cassange, that he was promoted to be sergeant-major of a company of militia. Ha^dng left Cassange on the 21st, we passed across the re- maining portion of this excessively fertile valley to the foot of Tala Mungongo. We crossed a fine httle stream called the Lui on . the 22nd, and another named the Luare on the 24th, then slept at the bottom of the height, which is from a thousand to fifteen hundred feet. The clouds came floating along the valley, and broke against the sides of the ascent, and the dripping rain on the tall gi'ass, made the slaps in the face it gave, when the hand or a stick was not held up before it, an}i;hhig but agreeable. This edge of the valley is exactly like the other ; jutting spurs and defiles give the red ascent the same serrated appearance as that which we descended from the highlands of Londa. The whole of this vast valley has been removed by denudation, for pieces of the plateau which once filled the now vacant space stand in it, and present the same structure of red horizontal strata of equal altitudes mth those of the acclivity wliich we are now about to ascend. One of these insulated masses, named Kasala, bore E.S.E. from the place where we made our exit from the valley, and about ten miles W.S.W. from the village of Cassange. It is remarkable for its perpendicular sides ; even the natives find it extremely difficult, almost impossible, to reach its summit, though there is the temptation of marabou-nests and feathers, which are highly prized. There is a small lake reported to exist on its southern end, and, during the rainy season, a sort of natural moat ls formed around the bottom. What an acqui- sition this would have been in feudal times in England ! There is land sufficient for considerable cultivation on the top, mth almost perpendicular sides more than a thousand feet in height. We had not yet got a clear idea of the nature of Tala Mim- gongo. A gentleman at Cassange described it as a range of very high mountains, which it would take four hours to climb ; so, though the rain and grass had wetted us miserably, and I was suf- fering from an attack of fever got while observing by night for the .position of Cassange, I eagerly commenced the ascent. The path Chap. XIX. TALA MUNGONGO. 377 was steep and slippery ; deep gorges appear on eacli side of it, leaving but a narrow path along certain spurs of the sierra for the traveller ; but we accomplished the ascent in an hour, and when there, found we had just got on to a table-land similar to that we had left, before we entered the great Quango valley. We had come among lofty trees again. One of these, bearing a fruit about the size of a thirty-two pounder, is named Mononga-zambi. We took a glance back to this valley, wliich equals that of the Mississippi in fertility, and thought of the vast mass of material which had been scooped out and carried away in its formation. This naturally led to reflection on the countless ages requii-ed for the previous formation and deposition of the same material (clay shale) ; then of the rocks, whose abrasion formed that, until the muid grew giddy in attempting to ascend the steps, wliich lead up tlirough a portion of the eternity before man. The different epochs of geology are like landmarks in that otherwise shoreless sea. Our oto epoch, or creation, is but another added to the number of that wonderful series which presents a gi-and display of the mighty power of God : every stage of progress in the earth and its habitants, is such a display. So far from this science having any tendency to make men midervalue the power or love of God, it leads to the probability that the exhibition of mercy we have in the gift of his Son, may possibly not be the only manifestation of grace which has taken place in the countless ages, during wliich, works of creation have been going on. Situated a few miles from the edge of the descent, we found the village of Tala Mungongo, and were kindly accommodated with a house to sleep in, which was very welcome, as we were all both wet and cold. We found that the gxeater altitude, and the approach of winter, lowered the temperature so much, that many of my men suffered severely from colds. At this, as at several other Portuguese stations, they have been provident enough to erect travellers' houses on the same principle as khans or cara- vanserais of the East. They are built of the usual wattle and daub, and have benches of rods for the wayfarer to make his bed on ; also chairs and a table, and a large jar of water. These benches, though far from luxurious couches, were better than the ground under the rotten fragments of my gipsy-tent, for we had still showers occasionally, and the dews were very heavy. I con- 378 BASONGO — TRUE NEGEOES. Chap. XIX. tinued to use them for the sake of the shelter they afforded, imtil I found that they were lodgmgs also, for certain inconvenient bedfellows. 21th. — Five hours' ride through a pleasant country of forest and meadow like those of Londa, brought us to a village of Basongo, a tribe living in subjection to the Portuguese. We crossed several httle streams, which were flowing in the westerly direction in which we were marching, and unite to form the Quize, a feeder of the Coanza. The Basongo were very civil, as indeed all the tribes were who had been conquered by the Portuguese. The Basongo and Bangala are yet only partially subdued. The farther west we go from this, the less independent we find the black population until we reach the vicinity of Loanda, where the free natives are nearly identical in then- feelings towards the government with the slaves. But the governors of Angola wisely accept the limited allegiance and tribute rendered by the more distant tribes, as better than none. All the inhabitants of this region, as well as those of Londa, may be called true negroes, if the limitations formerly made be borne in mind. The dark colour, thick Hps, heads elongated backwards and upwards and covered with wool, flat noses, with other negro pecuharities, are general; but while these charac- teristics place them in the true negro family, the reader would imbibe a wrong idea, if he supposed that all these features com- bined are often met with in one individual. All have a certain thickness and prominence of Hp, but many are met with in every viUage in whom thickness and projection are not more marked than in Em'opeans. AU are dark, but the colour is shaded off in difierent individuals from deep black to Hght yeUow. As we go westward, we observe the Hght colour predominating over the dark, and then again, when we come witliin the influence of damp from the sea air, we find the shade deepen into the general blackness of the coast population. The shape of the head, with its wooUy crop, though general, is not universal. The tribes on the eastern side of the continent, as the Caffres, have heads finely developed and strongly European. Instances of tliis kind are frequently seen, and after I became so famiHar A\'ith the dark colour as to forget it in viewing the countenance, I was struck by the strong resemblance some natives bore to certain of om- Chap. XIX. THE QUIZE. 379 own notabilities. The Bushmen and Hottentots are exceptions to these remarks, for both the shape of their heads and growth of wool are peculiar — the latter, for instance, springs from the scalp in tufts with bare spaces between, and when the crop is short, resembles a number of black peppercorns stuck on the skin, and very unlike the thick frizzly masses wliich cover the heads of the Balonda and Maraud. With every disposition to pay due deference to the opinions of those who have made ethnology their special study, I have felt myself unable to beheve that the exag- gerated features usually put forth as those of the typical negro, characterize the majority of any nation of south central Africa. The monuments of the ancient Eg}^tians seem to me to embody the ideal of the inhabitants of Londa, better than the figures of any work of ethnology I have met with. Passing through a fine fertile and well-peopled country to Sanza, we found the Quize river again touching our path, and here we had the pleasure of seeing a field of wheat growing luxuriantly without irrigation. The ears were upwards of four inches long, an object of great curiosity to my companions, because they had tasted my bread at Linyanti, but had never before seen wheat growing. This smaU field was cultivated by Mr. Miland, an agreeable Por- tuguese merchant. His garden was interesting, as showing what the land at this elevation is capable of yielding, for, besides wheat, we saw European vegetables in a flourishing condition, and we afterwards discovered that the coffee-plant has propagated itself on certain spots of this same district. It may be seen on the heights of Tala Mungongo, or nearly 300 miles from the west coast, where it was first introduced by the Jesuit missionaries. We spent Sunday the 30th of April at Ngio, close to the ford of the Quize as it crosses our path to fall into the Coanza. The country becomes more open, but is still abundantly fertile, with a thick crop of grass between two and three feet high. It is also weU wooded and watered. Villages of Basongo are dotted over the landscape, and frequently a square house of wattle and daub, belonging to native Portuguese, is placed beside them for the purposes of trade. The people here possess both cattle and pigs. The different sleeping-places on our path, fi'om eight to ten miles apart, are marked by a cluster of sheds made of sticks and grass. There is a constant stream of people going and returning 380 CARRIERS — FEVEK. Chap. XIX. to and from the coast. The goods are carried on the head, or on one shoulder, in a sort of basket attached to the extremities of two poles between five and six feet long, and called Motete. When the basket is placed on the head, the poles project forwards horizontally, and when the carrier mshes to rest himself, he plants them on the ground and the burden against a tree, so he is not obhged to lift it up fi'om the ground to the level of the head. It stands against the tree propped up by the poles at that level. The carrier frequently plants the poles on the ground, and stands holding the burden until he has taken breath, thus avoiding the trouble of placing the burden on the ground and liftmg it up agam. When a company of these carriers, or our own party, arrives at one of these sleeping-places, immediate possession is taken of the sheds. Those who come late and find aU occupied, must then erect others for themselves ; but this is not difficult, for there is no lack of long grass. No sooner do any strangers appear at the spot, than the women may be seen emerging from their villages bearing baskets of manioc-meal, roots, ground-nuts, yams, bird's- eye pepper, and garhc for sale. Cahco, of which we had brought some from Cassange, is the chief medium of exchange. We found them all civil, and it was evident, from the amount of talking and laughing in bargaining, that the ladies enjoyed their occupation. They must cultivate largely, in order to be able to supply the constant succession of strangers. Those, however, near to the gi-eat line of road, purchase also much of the food from the more distant villages for the sake of gain. Pitsane and another of the men had violent attacks of fever, and it was no wonder, for the dampness and evaporation from the ground was excessive. When at any time I attempted to get an observation of a star, if the trough of mercury were placed on the ground, so much moistm-e was condensed on the inside of the glass roof over it, that it was with difficulty the reflection of the star could be seen. When the trough was placed on a box to prevent the moisture entering from below, so much dew was deposited on the outside of the roof, that it was soon necessary, for the sake of distinct vision, to wipe the glass. This would not have been of great consequence, but a short exposure to tliis dew was so sure to bring on a fresh fever, that I was obhged Chap. XIX. DISTRICT OF AMBACA. 381 to give up observations by niglit altogether. The inside of the only covering I now had was not much better, but under the blanket, one is not so hable to the chill which the dew produces. It would have afforded me pleasure to have cultivated a more intimate acquaintance with the inhabitants of tliis part of the country, but the vertigo produced by frequent fevers made it as much as I could do to stick on the ox and crawl along in misery. In crossing the Lombe, my ox Sinbad, in the indulgence of his propensity to strike out a new path for himself, plunged overhead into a deep hole, and so soused me, that I was obhged to move on to dry my clothing, without calling on the Europeans who hve on the bank. This I regretted, for aU the Portuguese were very kind, and hke the Boers placed in similar cu'cumstances, feel it a shglit to be passed mthout a word of salutation. But we went on to a spot where orange-trees had been planted by the natives themselves, and where abundance of that refreshing fruit was exposed for sale. On entering the district of Ambaca, we found the landscape enhvened by the appearance of lofty mountains in the distance, the grass comparatively short, and the whole country at tliis time looking gay and verdant. On om- left we saw certain rocks of the same nature with those of Pungo Andongo, and which closely resemble the Stonehenge group on Salisbury Plam, only the stone pillars here are of gigantic size. This region is all wonder- fully fertile, famed for raising cattle, and all kinds of agricultural produce, at a cheap rate. The soil contains sufficient ferruginous matter, to impart a red tinge to nearly the whole of it. It is supplied with a great number of httle flo^\TDg streams wliich unite in the Lucalla. This river drains Ambaca, then faUs into the Coanza to the south-west at Massangano. We crossed the Lucalla by means of a large canoe kept there by a man who farms the ferry from the government, and charges about a penny per liead. A few miles beyond the Lucalla, we came to the village of Ambaca, an important place in former times, but now a mere paltry village, beautifully situated on a httle elevation in a plain surrounded on all hands by lofty mountains. It has a gaol, and a good house for the Commandant, but neither fort nor chm-ch, though the ruins of a place of worship are still standing. We were most kindly received by the Commandant of Ambaca, 382 FEUITS OF JESUIT TEACHING. Chap. XIX. Arsenio de Carpo, wlio spoke a little Englisli. He recommended wine for my debility, and here I took tlie first glass of that beverage I had taken in Africa. I felt much refreshed, and could then realize and meditate on the weakening effects of the fever. They were cmious even to myself, for, though I had tried several times since we left Ngio to take lunar observations, I could not avoid confusion of time and distance, neither could I hold the instrument steady, nor perform a simple calculation ; hence many of the positions of this part of the route were left till my return from Loanda. Often, on getting up ia the mornings, I found my clothiQg as wet from persphation as if it had been dipped in water. In vain had I tried to learn or coUect words of the Bunda, or dialect spoken in Angola. I forgot the days of the week and the names of my companions, and, had I been asked, I probably could not have told my own. The complaint itself occupied many of my thoughts. One day I supposed that I had got the true theory of it, and would certainly cm-e the next attack whether in myseK or companions, but some new symptoms would appear, and scatter all the fine speculations which had sprung up, with extraordinary fertility, in one department of my brain. This district is said to contain upwards of 40,000 souls. Some ten or twelve miles to the north of the \'illage of Ambaca, there once stood the missionary station of Cahenda, and it is now quite astonisliing to observe the great numbers who can read and -write in this district. This is the fruit of the labours of the Jesuit and Capuchin missionaries, for they taught the people of Ambaca ; and ever since the expulsion of the teachers by the Marquis of Pombal, the natives have continued to teach each other. These devoted men are still held in high estimation throughout the country to this day. All speak weU of them (os j)adres Jesuitas), and now that they are gone from this lower sphere, I could not help Avishing that these our Eoman Cathohc fellow-Christians had felt it to be then duty to give the people the Bible, to be a light to their feet when the good men themselves were gone. \\Tien sleeping in the house of the Commandant an insect, well known in the southern country by the name Tampan, bit my foot. It is a kind of tick, and chooses by preference the 2)arts between the fingers or toes for inflicting its bite. It is seen from the size Chap. XIX. THE TAMPAN — CABINDA. 383 of a pin's head to that of a pea, and is common in all the native huts in tliis country. It sucks the blood until quite fuU, and is then of a dark-blue colour, and its skin so tough and yielding, that it is impossible to burst it by any amount of squeezing with the fingers. I had felt the effects of its bite in former years, and eschewed aU native huts ever after, but as I was here again assailed in a European house, I shall detail the effects of the bite. These are, a tingling sensation of mingled pain and itching, which commences ascending the limb until the poison imbibed reaches the abdomen, where it soon causes ^dolent vomiting and purging. Where these effects do not foUow, as we found after- wards at Tete, fever sets in ; and I was assured by intelligent Portuguese there, tha^ death has sometimes been the result of this fever. The anxiety my friends at Tete manifested to keep my men out of the reach of the tampans of the village, made it evident that they had seen cause to dread this insignificant insect. The only inconvenience I afterwards suffered from this bite, was the continuance of the tingHng sensation in the point bitten, for about a week. May 12th. — As we were about to start this morning, the Com- mandant, Senhor Arsenio, provided bread and meat most bounti- fully for my use on the way to the next station, and sent two miHtia soldiers as guides, iustead of our Cassange corporal, who left us here. About mid-day we asked for shelter from the sun in the house of Senhor MeUot, at Zangu, and though I was imable to sit and engage in conversation, I found on risiag from his couch that he had at once proceeded to cook a fowl for my use ; and at parting he gave me a glass of wine, which prevented the violent fit of shivering I expected that afternoon. The universal hospitahty of the Portuguese was most gratifyuig, as it was quite unexpected. A nd even now, as I copy my journal, I remember it aU with a glow of gratitude. We spent Sunday, the 14th of May, at Cabiada, which is one of the stations of the sub-commandants, who are placed at different points in each district of Angola, as assistants of the head-com- mandant, or chefe. It is situated iu a beautiful glen, and sm*- rounded by plantations of bananas and manioc. The country was gradually becoming more pictm-esque, the farther we pro- ceeded west. The ranges of lofty blue mountains of LiboUo, 384 DISTRICT OF GOLUNGO ALTO. Chap. XIX. wliich in coming towards Ambaca we had seen tliirty or forty miles to our south, were now shut from our view by others nearer at hand, and the grey ranges of Cahenda and Kiwe, which, while we were in Ambaca, stood clearly defined eight or ten miles off to the north, were now close upon our right. As we looked back towards the open pastoral country of Ambaca, the broad green gently undulating plains seemed in a hollow sm-rounded on all sides by rugged mountains, and as we went westward we were entering upon quite a wild-looking mountainous district called Golungo Alto. We met numbers of Mambari on their way back to Bihe. Some of them had belonged to the parties wliich had penetrated as far as Linyanti, and foohshly showed their displeasure at the prospect of the Makololo preferring to go to the coast markets themselves, to intrusting them with their ivory. The Mambari repeated the tale of the mode in wliich the white men are said to trade. "The ivory is left on the shore in the evening, and next morning the seller finds a quantity of goods placed there in its stead by the white men who Hve in the sea." "Now," added they to my men, " how can you Makololo trade with these ' Mermen ' ? Can you enter into the sea, and tell them to come ashore ? " It was remarkable to hear this idea repeated so near the sea as we now were. My men rephed that they only wanted to see for themselves ; and as they were now getting some hght on the nature of the trade carried on by the Mambari, they were higlily amused on percei\Tng the reasons why the Mambari would rather have met them on the Zambesi, than so near the sea-coast. There is something so exhilarating to one of Highland blood in being near or on high mountains, that I forgot my fever as we wended our way among the lofty tree-covered masses of mica schist, which form the highlands around the romantic residence of the Chefe of Golungo Alto. (Lat. 9° 8' 30" S., long. 15° 2' E.) The whole district is extremely beautiful. The hills are all bedecked with trees of various hues of fohage, and among them towers the graceful palm, which yields the oil of commerce for making our soaps, and the intoxicating toddy. Some clusters of hills look Kke the waves of the sea driven into a narrow open bay, and have assumed the same form as if, when all Chap. XIX. CARRIEES. 385 were cliopping up perpendicularly, they had suddenly been con- gealed. The cottages of the natives, perched on the tops of many of the hillocks, looked as if the owners possessed an eye for the romantic, but they were probably influenced more by the desire to overlook their gardens, and keep their famiUes out of the reach of the malaria, which is supposed to prevail most on the banlvs of the numerous httle streams which run among the hills. We were most kindly received by the Commandant, Lieutenant Antonio Canto e Castro, a young gentleman whose whole sub- sequent conduct will ever make me regard him with great affection. Like every other person of intelligence whom I had met, he lamented deeply the neglect with which this fine coimtry has been treated. This district contained, by the last census, 2G,000 heai*ths, or fires ; and if to each hearth we reckon four souls, we have a population of 104,000. The number of carre- gadores (carriers) who may be ordered out at the pleasure of Government to convey merchandise to the coast is in this dis- trict alone about 6000, yet there is no good road in existence. This system of compulsory can-iage of merchandise, was adopted in consequence of the iacrease in numbers and activity of our cruisers, which took place in 1845. Each trader who went, previous to that year, into the interior, in the pursuit of his caUing, proceeded on the plan of pm-chasing ivory and bees'- wax, and a sufficient number of slaves to carry these commo- dities. The whole were intended for exj)ortation as soon as the trader reached the coast. But when the more striQoent measures of 1845 came into operation, and rendered the exporta- tion of slaves almost impossible, there being no roads proper for the emplo^Tuent of wheel conveyances, this new system of com- pulsory carriage of ivory and bees'-wax to the coast was resorted to by the Government of Loanda. A trader who requu-es two or three hundi'ed carriei-s to convey his merchandise to the coast, now appHes to the General Government for aid. An order is sent to the Commandant of a district to furnish the number required. Each head-man of the villages to whom the order is transmitted, must furnish from five to twenty or thirty men, according to the proportion that his people bear to the entire population of the district. For this accommodation the trader 2 c 386 GOLUNGO ALTO. Chap. XIX. must pay a tax to the Government of 1000 reis, or about three shillings per load carried. The trader is obhged to pay the carrier also the sum of 50 reis, or about twopence a day, for his sustenance. And as a day's journey is never more than from eight to ten miles, the expense which must be incurred for this compulsory labour is felt to be heavy by those who were accus- stomed to employ slave laboiu- alone. Yet no effort has been made to form a great line of road for wheel carriages. The first great want of a country has not been attended to, and no develop- ment of its vast resources has taken place. The fact, however, of a change from one system of carriage to another, taken in con- nection with the great depreciation in the prices of slaves near this coast, proves the effectiveness of om- efforts at repressing the slave-trade on the ocean. The latitude of Golungo Alto, as observed at the residence of the Commandant, was 9° 8' 30" S., longitude 15° 2' E. A few days' rest with this excellent young man, enabled me to regain much of my strength, and I could look with pleasure on the luxuriant scenery before his door. We were quite shut in among green liiUs, many of which were cultivated up to their tops mth manioc, coffee, cotton, gTound-nuts, bananas, pine-apples, guavas, papaws, custard-apples, pitangas, and jambos, fruits brought from South America by the former missionaries. The high liills all aroimd, with towering palms on many points, made this spot appear more Hke the Bay of Eio de Janeiro in miniature than any scene I ever saw ; and aU who have seen that, confess it to be unequalled in the world beside. The fertihty evident in every spot of this district was quite marvellous to behold, but I shall reserve further notices of this region till our return from Loanda, We left Golungo Alto on the 24tli of May, the ^\inter in these parts. Every evening, clouds come rolling in great masses over the mountains in the west, and peaHng thimder accompanies the fall of rain during the night or early in the morning. The clouds generally remain on the hills till the morning is well spent, so that we become familiar mth morning mists, a tiling we never once saw at Kolobeng. The thermometer stands at 80° by day, but sinks as low as 76° by night. In going westward we crossed several fine little gushing streams Chap. XIX. COFFEE ESTATE. 387 which never dry. They unite iq the Luinha (pronounced Lu- eenya) and Lucalla. As they flow over many little cascades, they might easily be turned to good account, but they are all allowed to run on idly to the ocean. We passed through forests of gigantic timber, and at an open space named Cambondo, about eight miles from Golungo Alto, found numbers of carpenters converting these lofty trees into planks, in exactly the same manner as was followed by the illustrious Kobinson Crusoe. A tree of three or four feet in diameter, and forty or fifty feet up to the nearest branches, was felled. It was then cut into lengths of a few feet, and spKt into thick junks, which again were reduced to planks an inch tliick by persevering labour with the axe. The object of the carpenters was to make Kttle chests, and they drive a constant trade in them at Cambondo. When finished with liinges, lock, and key, all of their own manufacture, one costs only a shUliag and eightpence. My men were so delighted with them that they carried several of them on their heads all the way to Linyanti. At Trombeta, we were pleased to observe a great deal of taste displayed by the Sub-Commandant, in the laying out of his groimd, and adornment of his house with flowers. This trifling incident was the more pleasing, as it was the first attempt at neatness I had seen since leaving the establishment of Moziakwa in Londa. Kows of trees had been planted along each side of the road, with pine-apples and flowers between. This arrange- ment I had an opportunity of seeing in several other districts of this country, for there is no difficulty in raising any plant or tree, if it is only kept from being choked by weeds. This gentleman had now a fine estate which but a few years ago was a forest, and cost him only IQl. He had planted about 900 coffee-trees upon it, and as these begin to yield in tliree years from being planted, and in six attain their maximum, I have no doubt but that ere now his 161. yields him sixty fold. All sorts of fruit-trees and grape-vines yield their fruit twice in each year, without any labour or irrigation being bestowed on them. All grains and vegetables if only sown do the same, and if advantage is taken of the mists of winter, even three crops of pulse may be raised. Cotton was now standing in the pods in his fields, • and he did not seem to care about it. I understood him to say 2 c 2 888 FEARS OF THE MAKOLOLO. Chap. XIX. \ that tliis last plant flourishes, but the wet of one of the two rainy seasons with which this country is favoured, sometimes proves troublesome to the grower. I am not aware whether wheat has ever been tried, but I saw both figs and grapes bearing well. The ' great complaint of all cultivators is the want of a good road to carry their produce to market. Here all kinds of food are re- markably cheap. Farther on we left the mountainous country, and, as we de- scended towards the west coast, saw the lands assuming a more sterile uninviting aspect. On our right ran the river Senza, wliich nearer the sea takes the name of Bengo. It is about fifty yards broad, and navigable for canoes. The low plains adjacent to its banks are protected fi'om inundation by embankments, and the population is entirely occupied in raising food and fruits for ex- portation to Loanda by means of canoes. The banks are infested by myriads of the most ferocious mosquitoes I ever met. Not one of our party could get a snatch of sleep. I was taken mto the house of a Portuguese, but was soon glad to make my escape and lie across the path on the lee side of the fire, where the smoke blew over my body. My host wondered at my want of taste, and I at liis want of feeling, for, to our astonishment, he, and the other inhabitants, had actually become used to what was at least equal to a nail tlirough the heel of one's boot, or the tooth-ache. As we were now drawing near to tlie sea, my companions were looking at everythitig in a serious light. One of them asked me if we should all have an opportunity of watching each other at Loanda. " Suppose one went for water, would the others see if he were kidnapped ? " I replied, " I see what you are driving at ; and if you suspect me, you may return, for I am as ignorant of Loanda as you are : but nothing will happen to you but what happens to myself. We have stood by each other hitherto, and will do so to the last." The plains adjacent to Loanda are some- what elevated and comparatively sterile. On coming across these we first beheld the sea : my companions looked upon the boimd- less ocean with awe. On describing their feehngs afterwards, they remarked that " we marched along with our father, beheving that what the ancients had always told us was true, that the world has no end but aU at once tlie world said to us, * I am finished ; CuAP. XIX. WELCOME TO LOANDA. 389 there is no more of me !"' They had always imagined that the world was one extended plain without limit. They were now somewhat apprehensive of suffering want, and I was imable to allay their fears with any promise of supply, for my OAvn mind was depressed by disease and care. The fever had induced a state of chronic dysentery, so troublesome that I could not remain on the ox more than ten minutes at a time ; and as we came down the decHvity above the city of Loanda on the 31st of May, I was labouring under great depression of spirits, as I understood that, in a population of twelve thousand souls, there was but one genuine Enghsh gentleman. I naturally felt anxious to know whether he were possessed of good nature, or was one of those crusty mortals, one would rather not meet at all. This gentleman, Mr. Gabriel, our commissioner for the sup- pression of the slave-trade, had kindly forwarded an imitation, to meet me on the way from Cassange, but unfortunately it crossed me on the road. When we entered his porch, I was dehghted to see a number of flowers cultivated carefully, and inferred from tliis circumstance that he was, what I soon discovered him to be, a real whole-hearted Englishman. Seeing me ill, he benevolently offered me his bed. Never shall I forget the luxuriant pleasm-e I enjoyed in feeling myself again on a good English couch, after six months' sleeping on the ground. I was soon asleep ; and Mr. Gabriel, coming in almost immediately, rejoiced at the soundness of my repose. 390 CONTINUED SICKNESS. CllAP. >IX. CHAPTEK XX. Continued sickness — Kindness of the Bishop of Angola and lier Majesty's officers — Mr. Gabriel's unwearied hospitality — Serious deportment of the Makololo — They visit ships of war — Politeness of the officers and men — The Makololo attend mass in the cathedral — Their remarks — Find employment in collecting firewood and unloading coal — Their superior judgment respecting goods — Beneficial influence of the Bishop of Angola — The city of St. Paul de Loanda — The harhour — Custom-house — No English merchants — Sincerity of the Portuguese government in suppress- ing the slave-trade — Convict soldiers — Presents from bishop and mer- chants for Sekeletu — Outfit — Leave Loanda 20th September, 1854 — Accompanied by Mr. Gabriel as far as IcoUo i Bengo — Sugar manufactory — Geology of this part of the country — Women spinning cotton — Its price — Native weavers — Market-places — Cazengo ; its cofi"ee-plantations — South American trees — Euins of iron-foundry — Native miners — The banks of the Lucalla — Cottages with stages — Tobacco-plants — Town of Massangano — Sugar and rice — Superior district for cotton — Portuguese merchants and foreign enterprise — Ruins — The fort and its ancient guns — Former importance of Massangano — Fires — The tribe Kisama — Peculiar variety of domestic fowl — Cofiee-plantatious — Return to Go- lungo Alto — Self-complacency of the Makololo — Fever — Jaundice — Insanity. In the liope that a short enjoyment of Mr. Gabriel's generous hospitahty would restore me to my wonted vigour, I continued under his roof; but my complaint ha^Tiig been caused by long exposure to malarious influences, I became much more reduced than ever, even wliile enjo}4ng rest. Several Portuguese gentle- men called on me shortly after my arrival ; and the Bishop of Angola, the Eight Eeverend Joaquim Moreira Eeis, then the acting governor of the province, sent his secretary to do the same, and likewise to offer the services of the government physician. Some of her Majesty's cruisers soon came into the port, and, seeing the emaciated condition to wliich I was reduced, offered to convey me to St. Helena or homewards ; but though I had reached tlie coast, I had found that, in consequence of the gi-eat amount of forest, rivers, and marsh, there was no 230SsibiKty of a highway for waggons, and I had brought a party of Sekeletu's people with Cjiap. XX. MAKOLOLO'S VISIT TO SHIPS. 391 me, and found the tribes near the Portuguese settlement so very unfriendly, that it would be altogether impossible for my men to return alone. I therefore resolved to decline the tempting offers of my naval friends, and take back my Makololo companions to their chief, with a ^-iew of tr}dng to make a path from his country to the east coast by means of the great river Zambesi or Leeambye. I however gladly availed myself of the medical assistance of Mr. Cockin, the surgeon of the " Polyphemus," at the suggestion of his commander. Captain PliilHps. Mr. Cockin's treatment, aided by the exliilarating presence of the warm-hearted naval officers, and Mr. Gabriel's unwearied hospitality and care, soon brought me round agam. On the 14th I was so far well as to call on the bishop, in company mth my party, who were arrayed in new robes of striped cotton cloth and red caps, all presented to them by Mr. Gabriel. He received us, as head of the provisional govern- ment, in the grand hall of the palace. He put many intelligent questions respecting the Makololo ; and then gave them free per- mission to come to Loanda as often as they pleased. This inter- view pleased the Makololo extremely. Every one remarked the serious deportment of the Makololo, They \iewed the large stone houses and churches in the vicinity of the great ocean with awe. A house mth two stories was, until now, beyond their comprehension. In explanation of this strange tiling, I had always been obliged to use the word for hut ; and as huts are constructed by the poles being let into the earth, they never could comprehend how the poles of one hut could be founded upon the roof of another, or how men could live in the upper story, with the conical roof of the lower one m the middle. Some Makololo, who had ^dsited my little house at Kolobeng, ill trying to describe it to their countrymen at Linyanti, said, " It is not a hut ; it is a mountain vdth several caves in it." Commander Bedingfeld and Captain Skene invited them to visit then- vessels, the " Pluto" and "Philomel." Knowing their fears, I told them that no one need go if he entertained the least suspicion of foul play. Nearly the whole party went ; and when on deck, I pointed to the sailors, and said, "Now these are all my countrymen, sent by our Queen for the purpose of putting dovm the trade of those that buy and sell black men." They 392 MAKOLOLO AT MASS. Chap. XX. replied, "Truly! they are just like you!" and all their fears seemed to yardsh at once, for they went forward amongst the men, and the jolly tars, acting much as the Makololo would have done in similar circumstances, handed them a share of the bread and beef which they had for dinner. The commander allowed them to fire off a cannon; and having the most exalted ideas of its power, they were greatly pleased when I told them, " That is what they put down the slave-trade with." The size of the brig- of-war amazed them. " It is not a canoe at all : it is a town !" The sailors' deck they named " the Kotla ;" and then, as a climax to their description of tliis great ark, added, " and what sort of a toTVTL is it that you must climb up into with a rope ?" The effect of the politeness of the officers and men on their minds was most beneficial. They had behaved with, the greatest kindness to me all the way from Linyanti ; and I now rose rapidly in their estimation, for, whatever they may have sui-mised before, they now saw that I was respected among my own countrymen, and always afterwards treated me with the greatest deference. On the 15th there was a procession and service of the mass in the cathedi-al ; and wishing to show my men a place of worship, I took them to the church, which now serves as the chief one of the See of Angola and Congo. There is an impression on some minds, that a gorgeous ritual is better calculated to inspire devo- tional feehngs, than the simple forms of the Protestant worship. But here the frequent genuflexions, changing of positions, burning of incense, with the priests' backs turned to the people, the laugh- ing, talking, and manifest UTCverence of the singers, with firing of guns, &c., did not convey to the minds of my men the idea of adoration. I overheard them, in talking to each other, remark that " they had seen the white men charming their demons ;" a plu-ase identical with one they had used when seeiug the Balonda beating drums before their idols. In the beginning of August I suffered a severe relapse, wliich reduced me to a mere skeleton. I was then unable to attend to my men for a considerable time ; but when in convalescence from this last attack, I was thankful to find that I was free from that lassitude, wliich, in my first recovery, showed the continuance of the malaria in the system. I found that my men, without prompt- ing, had established a brisk trade in firewood. They sallied forth CiiAP. XX. THEIR JUDGMENT RESPECTING GOODS. 393 at cock-crowing in tlie mornings, and by daylight readied the uncultivated parts of the adjacent country, collected a bundle of firewood, and returned to the city. It was then divided into smaller fagots, and sold to the inhabitants ; and as they gave larger quantities than the regular wood-carriers, they found no difficulty in selHng. A ship freighted with coal for the cruisers having arrived from England, Mr. Gabriel procured them employ- ment in unloading her at sixpence a-day. They continued at this work for upwards of a month, and notliing could exceed their astonishment at the vast amount of cargo one sliip contained. As they themselves always afterwards expressed it, they had labom-ed every day from sunrise to sunset for a moon and a half, unloaduig, as quickly as they could, " stones that burn," and were thed out, still leaving plenty in her. With the money so obtained they pm'chased clothing, beads, and other articles to take back to their own country. Their ideas of the value of different kinds of goods, rather astonished those who had dealt only with natives on the coast. Hearing it stated mth confidence that the Afr-icans preferred the thinnest fabrics, provided they had gaudy colours and a large extent of surface, the idea was so new to my expe- rience in the interior, that I dissented, and, in order to show the superior good sense of the Makololo, took them to the shop of Mr. Schut. ^\Tien he showed them the amount of general goods which they might procure at Loanda for a single tusk, I requested them, without assigmng any reason, to point out the ftibrics they prized most. They all, at once selected the strongest pieces of Enghsh caUco and other cloths, shoeing that they had regard to strength without reference to colour. I beheve that most of the Bechuana nation would have done the same. But I was assured that the people near the coast, with whom the Por- tuguese have to deal, have not so much regard to durability. This probably arises from calico being the chief circulating medium ; quantity being then of more importance than quality. Dming the period of my indisposition, the bishop sent fre- quently to make mquiries, and as soon as I was able to walk, I went to thank liim for his civihties. His whole conversation and conduct showed him to be a man of gTcat benevolence and kind- ness of heart. AlludiQg to my being a Protestant, he stated that he was a CathoHc from con\iction ; and though sorry to see others. 394 ST. PAUL DE LOANDA. Chap. XX. lilte myself, following another patli, lie entertained no uncliaritable feelings, nor would he ever sanction persecuting measui-es. He compared the various sects of Cliristians, in their way to heaven, to a number of individuals choosing to pass dovm the different streets of Loanda to one of the churches, — all would arrive at the same point at last. His good influence both in the city and the country is universally acknowledged : he was promoting the esta- bhslmaent of schools, wliich, though formed more on the monastic principle than Protestants might approve, will no doubt be a blessing. He w^as likewise successfully attempting to abolish the non-marriage custom of the country ; and several marriages had taken place in Loanda among those who but for his teacliing would have been content with concubinage. St. Paul de Loanda has been a very considerable city, but is now in a state of decay. It contains about twelve thousand inlia- bitants, most of whom are people of colour.* There are various evidences of its former magnificence, especially two cathedrals, one of which, once a Jesuit college, is now converted into a work- shop ; and in passing the other we saw with sorrow a number of oxen feeding within its stately walls. Tliree forts continue in a good state of repau\ Many large stone houses are to be found. The palace of the governor and government offices are com- modious structm-es ; but nearly all the houses of the native uilia- bitants are of wattle and daub. Trees are planted all over the town for the sake of shade ; and the city presents an imposing appearance from the sea. It is provided vdth an effective police ; and the custom-house de]Dartment is extremely well managed. All parties agTee in rej)resentmg the Portuguese authorities as both pohte and obhging ; and if ever any inconvenience is felt by strangers visiting the port, it must be considered the fault of the system, and not of the men. The harbour is formed by the low sandy island of Loanda, which is inhabited by about 1300 souls, upwards of 600 of whom are industrious native fishermen, who supj)ly the city with abun- * From the census of 1850-51 we find tlie population of this city arranged tliiis 830 whites, only 160 of whom are females. This is the largest col- lection of whites in the country, for Angola itself contains only ahout 1000 whites. There are 2400 half-castes in Loanda, and only 120 of them slaves ; and there are 9000 blacks, more than 5000 of whom are slaves. Chap. XX. CUSTOM-HOUSE ARKANGEMEKTS. 395 dance of good fish daily. The space between it and the mam- land, on which the city is built, is the station for ships. When a high south-west wdnd blows, the waves of the ocean dash over part of the island, and, driving large quantities of sand before them, gi-aduaUy fill up the harbour. Great quantities of soil are also washed in the rainy season from the heights above the city, so that the port, which once contained water sufficient to float the largest ships close to the custom-house, is now at low water dry. The sliips are compelled to anchor about a mile north of then- old station. Nearly aU the water consumed in Loanda is brought from the river Bengo by means of launches, the only supply that the city affords being from some deep wells of slightly brackish water ; unsuccessful attempts have been made by different governors to finish a canal, which the Dutch, while in possession of Loanda during the seven years preceding 1648, had begun, to bring water from the river Coanza to the city. There is not a single English merchant at Loanda, and only two American. Tliis is the more remarkable, as nearly all the commerce is carried on by means of English cahco brought hither Yia, Lisbon. Several English houses attempted to estabhsh a trade about 1845, and accepted biUs on Kio de Janeu'o in payment for then- goods, but the increased activity of our cruisers had such an effect upon the mercantile houses of that city, that most of them failed. The English merchants lost aU, and Loanda got a bad name in the commercial world in consequence. One of the arrangements of the custom-house may have had some influence in preventing EngHsh trade. Ships coming here must be consigned to some one on the spot ; the consignee re- ceives one hundred dollars per mast, and he generally makes a great deal more for himself, by putting a percentage on boats and men hired for loading and unloading, and on every item that passes through his hands. The port charges are also rendered heavy by twenty dollars being charged as a perquisite of the Secre- tary of Government, with a fee for the chief physician, something for the hospital, custom-house officers, g-uards, &c. &c. But with aU these drawbacks, the Americans carry on a brisk and profitable trade in caHco, biscuit, flour, butter, &c. &c. The Portuguese home Government has not generally received the credit for sincerity in suppressing the slave-trade, which I 396 CONVICT SOLDIEES. Chap. XX. conceive to be its due. In 1839 my friend ]\Ir. Gabriel saw 37 slave-ships lying in this harbour, waiting for their cargoes, under the protection of the guns of the forts. At that time slavers had to wait many months at a time for a human freight, and a certain sum per head was paid to the Government for all that were ex- ported. The duties derived from the exportation of slaves far exceeded those from other commerce, and by agreeing to the suppression of this profitable traffic, the Government actually sacrificed the chief part of the export revenue. Since that period, however, the revenue from la^vful commerce has very much ex- ceeded that on slaves. The intentions of the home Portuguese Government, however good, cannot be fully carried out under the present system. The pay of the officers is so very small, that they are nearly all obliged to engage in trade ; and owing to the lucrative nature of the slave-trade, the temptation to engage in it is so powerful, that the philantliropic statesmen of Lisbon need hardly expect to have then* humane and enlightened ^lews car- ried out. The law, for instance, lately promulgated for the abolition of the carrier system (carregadores) is but one of several equally humane enactments against this mode of com- pulsory labom-, but there is very little probability of the benevo- lent intentions of the legislature being carried into effect. Loanda is regarded somewhat as a j)enal settlement, and those who leave their native land for tliis country do so Avith the hope of gettiug rich in a few years, and then returning home. They have thus no motive for seeking the permanent Avelfare of the country. The Portug-uese law preventing the subjects of any other nation from holding landed property unless they become naturalized, the country has neither the advantage of native nor foreign enterj)rise, and remains very much in the same state as our aUies found it in 1575. Nearly all the European soldiers sent out are convicts, and, contrary to what might be expected from men in their position, behave remarkably weU. A few riots have occurred, but nothing at all so serious as have taken place in our own penal settlements. It is a remarkable fact that the whole of the arms of Loanda are every night in the hands of those who have been convicts. Various reasons for tliis mild behaviour are assigned by the officers, but none of these, when viewed in connection mth our own experience in Austraha, appear to be Chap. XX. PRESENTS FOR SEKELETU. 897 valid. Religion seems to have no connexion with the' change. Perhaps the climate may have some influence in subduing their tiu-bulent disjDosition, for the inhabitants generally are a timid race ; they are not at all so brave as our Caffres. The people of Ambriz ran away like a flock of sheep, and allowed the Portu- guese to take possession of their copper-mines and country, without striking a blow. If we must have convict settlements, attention to the climate might be of advantage in the selection. Here even bulls are much tamer than with us. I never met with a ferocious one in this country, and the Portuguese use them generally for riding ; an ox is seldom seen. The objects which. I had in view in opening up the country, as stated in a few notes of my journey, published in the news- papers of Angola, so commended themselves to the general government and merchants of Loanda, that, at the instance of his Excellency the Bishop, a handsome present for Sekeletu was granted by the Board of PubKc Works (Junta da Fazenda Pub- lica). It consisted of a colonel's complete uniform and a horse for the chief, and suits of clothing for aU the men who accompanied me. The merchants also made a present, by pubhc subscription, of handsome specimens of all their articles of trade, and two donkeys, for the purpose of introduciug the breed into his country, as tsetse cannot kill this beast of burden. These presents were accompanied by letters from the Bishop and merchants ; and I was kindly favoured with letters of recommendation to the Por- tuguese authorities in Eastern Africa. I took with me a good stock of cotton-clotli, fresh suppHes of ammunition and beads, and gave each of my men a musket. As my companions had amassed considerable quantities of goods, they were unable to carry mine, but the bishop furnished me with twenty carriers, and sent forward orders to all the com- mandants of the districts through which we were to pass, to render me every assistance in their power. Beiug now supplied with a good new tent made by my friends on board the Philomel, we left Loanda on the 20th September, 1854, and passed round by sea to the mouth of the river Bengo. Ascending this river, we went tlirough the district in which stand the ruins of the convent of St. Antonio ; thence into Icollo i Bengo, which con- tains a population of 6530 blacks, 172 mulattoes, and 11 whites, 398 SUGAR MANUFACTORY — GEOLOGY. Chap. XX. and is So named from having been tlie residence of a former native king. The proportion of slaves is only 3 "38 per cent, of the inhabitants. The commandant of this place, Laurence Jose Marquis, is a frank old soldier and a most hospitable man ; he is one of the few who secure the universal approbation of their fellow- men for stern unflinching honesty, and has risen from the ranks to be a major in the army. AVe were accompanied thus far by our generous host, Edmund Gabriel, Esq., who, by liis unwearied attentions to myself, and hberality in supporting my men, had become endeared to all our hearts. My men were strongly im- pressed with a sense of his goodness, and often spoke of liim in terms of admiration all the way to Linyanti. While here we visited a large sugar manufactory belonging to a lady, Donna Anna da Sousa. The flat alluvial lands on the banks of the Senza or Bengo are well adapted for raising sugar- cane, and this lady had a surprising number of slaves, but some- how the estabhshment was far from bemg in a flom-ishing con- dition. It presented such a contrast to the free-labour establish- ments of the Mauritius which I have since seen, where, with not one tenth of the number of hands, or such good soil, a man of colour had, in one year, cleared 5000^. by a single crop, tliat I quote the fact in hopes it may meet the eye of Donna Anna. The water of the river is muddy, and it is observed that such rivers have many more mosquitoes than those wliich have clear water. It was remarked to us here that these insects are much more numerous at the period of new moon than at other times ; at any rate we were all thankful to get away from the Senza and its insect plagues. The whole of this part of the country is composed of marly tufa, containing the same kind of shells as those at present ahve in tlie seas. As we advanced eastward and ascended the higher lands, we found eruj)tive trap, which had tilted up immense masses of mica and sandstone schists. The mica schist almost always dipped towards the interior of the country, forming those mountain-ranges of which we have already spoken as giving a highland character to the district of Golungo Alto. The trap has frequently run through the gorges made in the upheaved rocks, and at the points of junction between the igneous and older roclis, th^re are large quantities of strongly magnetic iron- Chap. XX. SPINNING AND WEAVING. 399 ore. The clayey soil formed by the disintegration of the mica schist and trap, is the favoui-ite soil for the coffee, and it is on these mountain sides, and others possessing a similar red clay soil, that this plant has propagated itself so A\'idely. The meadow- lands adjacent to the Senza and Coanza being underlaid by that marly tufa which abounds towards the coast, and containing the same shells, show that previous to the elevation of that side of the country, tliis region possessed some deeply indented bays. 28^A September, Kalungivembo. — We were still on the same path by which we had come, and, there being no mosquitoes, we could now better enjoy the scenery. Ranges of hills occupy both sides of our path, and^ the fine level road is adorned mth a beau- tiful red flower named Bolcamaria. The markets or sleeping- places are well supplied with provisions by great numbers of women, every one of whom is seen spinning cotton with a spindle and distaff, exactly like those which were in use amongst the ancient Egy|:)tians. A woman is scarcely ever seen going to the fields, though with a pot on her head, a child on her back, and the hoe over her shoulder, but she is employed in this way. The cotton was brought to the market for sale, and 1 bought a pound for a penny. This was the price demanded, and probably double what they ask from each other. We saw the cotton growing luxuriantly all around the market-places from seeds dropped accidentally. It is seen also about the native huts, and, so far as I could learn, it was the American cotton so influenced by climate as to be perennial. We met in the road natives passing A^itli bundles of cops, or spindles full of cotton thread, and these they were carrying to other parts to be woven into cloth. The women are the spinners, and the men perform the weaving. Each web is about 5 feet long, and 15 or 18 inches wide. The loom is of the simplest construction, being nothmg but two beams placed one over the other, the web standing perpendicularlv. The tlu-eads of the web are separated by means of a thin wooden lath, and the woof passed tlu'ough, by means of the spindle on which it has been wound in spinning. The mode of spinning and weaA^ng in Angola, and indeed tlu'oughout South Central Africa, is so very like the same occu- pations in the hands of the ancient Egyptians, that I introduce a woodcut from the interesting work of Sir Gardner Wilkinson. 400 CHEAPNESS OF LABOUR. Chap. XX. The lower figures are engaged in spinning in the real African method, and the weavers in the left-hand comer have their web in the Angolese fashion. Ancient Spinning and Weaving, perpetuated in Africa at the present day. From Wilkinson's ' Ancient Egyptians,' pp. 85, 86. Numbers of other articles are brought for sale to these sleeping- places. The native smiths there carry on their trade. I bought ten very good table-knives made of country iron for two pence each. Labour is extremely cheap, for I was assured that even car- penters, masons, smiths, &c., might be hired for fourpence a day, and agriculturists would gladly work for half that sum.* * In order that the reader may understand the social position of the people of this country, 1 here give the census of the district of Golungo Alto for the year 1854, though the numbers are evidently not all furnished : — 238 householders or yeomen. 4224 patrons, or head-men of several hamlets. 23 native chiefs or sovas. 292 macotas or councillors. 5838 carriers. 126 carpenters. 72 masons. 300 shoemakers. 181 potters. 25 tailors. 12 barbers. 206 iron-founders. 486 bellows-blowers. 586 coke-makers. 173 iron-miners. 1 84 soldiers Chap. XX. COFFEE-PLANTATIONS. 401 Beiiig anxious to obtain some more knowledge of tliis inter- esting country, and its ancient missionary establishments, than the line of route by which we had come afforded, I resolved to visit the town of Massangano, which is situated to the south of Golungo Alto, and at the confluence of the rivers Tjucalla and Coanza. This led me to pass through the district of Cazengo, which is rather famous for the abundance and excellence of its coffee. Extensive coffee plantations were found to exist on the sides of the several lofty mountains that compose this district. They were not planted by the Portuguese. The Jesuit and other mis- sionaries are known to have brought some of the fine old Mocha seed, and these have .propagated themselves far and wide ; hence the excellence of the Angola coffee. Some have asserted that, as new plantations were constantly discovered even during the period of our visit, the coffee-tree was indigenous ; but the fact that pine-apples, bananas, yams, orange-trees, custard apple-trees, pitangas, guavas, and other South American trees, were found by me in the same locahties with the recently-discovered coffee, would seem to indicate that aU foreign trees must have been 184 soldiers of militia. 3603 privileged gentlemen, i. e. who may wear boots. 18 vagabonds. 717 old men. 54 blind men and women. 81 lame men and women. 770 slave men. 807 slave women. 9578 free women. 393 possessors of land. 300 female gardeners. 139 hunters of wild animals, 980 smiths. 314 mat-makers. 4065 males under 7 years of age. 6012 females under 7 years of ag These people possess 300 idol-houses, 600 sheep, 5000 goats, 500 oxen, 398 gardens, 25,120 hearths. The authorities find great difficulty in getting the people to furnish a correct account of their numbers. This census is quoted merely for the purpose of giving a general idea of the employments of the inhabitants. The following is taken from the census of Icollo i Bengo, and is added for a similar reason : — 3232 living without the marriage tie. (All those who have not been married by a priest are so distinguished.) 4 orphans — 2 black and 2 white. 9 native chiefs. 2 carpenters. 21 potters. 11 tailors. 2 shoemakers. 3 barbers. 5 mat-makers. 12 sack-makers. 21 basket-maker; The cattle in the district are : 10 asses, 401 oxen, 492 cows, 3933 sheep, 1699 goats, 909 swine ; and as an annual tax is levied of sixpence per head on all stock, it is probable that the returns are less than the reality. 2 D 402 EUmS OF lEON-FOinSTDRY. Chap. XX. introduced by the same agency. It is known that the Jesuits also introduced many other trees for the sake of their timber alone. Numbers of these have spread over the country, some have probably died out, and others failed to spread, like a lonely specimen which stands in what was the Botanic Garden of Loanda, and, though most useful in yielding a substitute for frankincense, is the only one of the kind in Africa. A circumstance which would facilitate the extensive propagation of the coffee on the proper clay soil, is this. The seed, when buried beneath the soil, generally dies, wliile that which is sown broad- east, mth no covering except the shade of the trees, vegetates readily. The agent in solving in this case is a bird, which eats the outer rind, and throws the kernel on the ground. This plant cannot bear the direct rays of the sun, consequently, when a number of the trees are discovered in a forest, all that is necessary is to clear away the brushwood, and leave as many of the taU forest-trees as ^^ill afford good shade to the coffee-plants below. The fortunate discoverer has then a flourishing coffee j^lantation. This district, small though it be, having only a population of 13,822, of whom ten only are Avhite, nevertheless yields an annual tribute to the Government of thirteen hundred cotton cloths, each 5 feet by 18 or 20 inches, of their own growth and manufacture. Accompanied by the Commandant of Cazengo, who was well acquainted mth this part of the coimtry, I proceeded in a canoe down the river Lucalla to Massangano. This river is about 85 yards mde, and na\agable for canoes fr'om its confluence with the Coanza, to about six miles above the point where it receives the Luioha. Near this latter point stand the strong massive ruins of an u'on-foundry, erected in the times (1768), and by the order, of the famous Marquis of Pombal. The whole of the buildings were constructed of stone, cemented with oil and lime. The dam for water-power was made of the same materials, and 27 feet liigh. This had been broken tlirough by a flood, and soHd blocks, many yards in length, were carried dowa the stream, affording an instructive example of the transporting power of water. There was nothing in the appearance of the place to indicate unliealthiness ; but eight Sj)anish and Swedish workmen, being brought hither for the purpose of instructing the natives in the art of smelting iron, soon fell victims to disease and " irregu- Chap. XX. BAOT^S OF THE LUCALLA. 403 larities." Tlie effort of the Mai-quis to improve the mode of manufacturing ii*on was thus rendered abortive. Labour and subsistence are, however, so very cheap that ahnost any amount of work can be executed, at a cost that renders expensive esta- bhshments imnecessary. A party of native miners and smiths is still kept in the employ- ment of the Government, who, working tlie rich black magnetic iron-ore, produce for the Government, from 480 to 500 bars of good malleable iron every month. They are supported by the appropriation of a few thousands of a small fresh-water fish, called " cacusu," a portion of the tax levied upon the fishermen of the Coanza. This fish is so much relished in the country, that those who do not msh to eat them can easily convert them into money. The Commandant of the district of Massangano, for instance, has a right to a dish of three himdred every morning, as part of his salary. SheU-fish are also found in the Coanza, and the " Peixemulher," or woman-fish, of the Portuguese, which is probably a Manatee. The banks of the Lucalla are very pretty, well planted vdth. orange-trees, bananas, and the palm {Elceis Guineensis) which yields the oil of commerce. Large plantations of maize, manioc, and tobacco, are seen along both banks, wliich are enhvened by the frequent appearance of native houses embosomed in dense shady groves, with little boys and ghls playing about them. The banks are steep, the water having cut out its bed in dark red alluvial soil. Before every cottage a small stage is erected, to which the inliabitants may descend to di-aw water mthout danger from the alligators. Some have a Kttle palisade made in the water for safety from these reptiles, and others use the shell of the fruit of the baobab-tree attached to a pole about ten feet long, with which, while standing on the high bank, they may draw water without fear of accident. Many cHmbiag plants run up the lofty silk, cotton, and baobab trees, and hang their beautiful flowers in gay festoons on the branches. As we approach Massangano, the land on both banks of the Lucalla becomes very level, and large portions are left marshy after the annual floods ; but all is very fertile. As an illustration of the strength of the soil, I may state, that we saw tobacco-plants ia gardens near the confluence eight feet liigh, and 2 D 2 ' 404 MASSANGANO. XX. each plant had thii'ty-six leaves, which were eighteen inches long by six or eight inches broad. But it is not a pastoral district. In our descent we observed the tsetse, and consequently the people had no domestic animals, save goats. We found the town of Massangano on a tongue of rather high land, formed by the left bank of the Lucalla, and right bank of the Coanza, and received true Portuguese hospitahty from Senhor Lubata. The town has more than a thousand inhabitants ; the district has 28,063, with only 315 slaves. It stands on a mound of calcareous tufa, containing great numbers of fossil shells, the most recent of which, resemble those found in the marly tufa close to the coast. The fort stands on the south side of the town, on a high perpendicular bank overhanging the Coanza. This river is here a noble stream, about a hundred and fifty yards wide, admitting navigation in large canoes from the bar at its mouth to Cambambe, some thirty miles above tliis town. There, a fine waterfall hinders farther ascent. Ten or twelve large canoes laden "svith country produce pass Massangano every day. Four galleons were constructed here as long ago as 1650, which must have been of good size, for they crossed the ocean to Rio Janeiro. Massangano district is well adapted for sugar and rice, while Cambambe is a very superior field for cotton ; but the bar at tlie mouth of the Coanza would prevent the approach of a steamer into this desirable region, though a small one could ply on it with ease when once in. It is probable that the objects of those who attempted to make a canal from Calumbo to Loanda, were not merely to supply that city with fresh water, but to afford facilities for transportation. The remains of the canal show it to have been made on a scale suited for the Coanza canoes. The Portuguese began another on a smaller scale in 1811, and, after tln-ee years' labour, had finished only 6000 yards. Nothing great or useful will ever be effected here, so long as men come merely to get rich, and then return to Portugal. The latitude of the town and fort of Massangano, is 9° 37' 46" S., being nearly the same as that of Cassange. The country between Loanda and this point being comparatively flat, a rail- road might be constructed at small expense. The level country is prolonged along the north bank of the Coanza, to the edge of the Cassange basin, and a railway carried thither would be con- Chap. XX. KUINS— THE FORT. 405 venient for the transport of the products of the rich districts of Cassange, Pungo Andongo, Ambaca, Cambambe, Golungo Alto, Cazengo, Mucliima, and Calmnbo ; in a word, the whole of Angola and independent tribes adjacent to this kingdom. The Portuguese merchants generally look to foreign enter- prise; and to their own Government, for the means by which this amelioration might be effected ; but, as I always stated to them when conversing on the subject, foreign capitaHsts would never run the risk, unless they saw the Angolese doing something for themselves, and the laws so altered that the subjects of other nations should enjoy the same privileges in the country with themselves. The Government of Portugal has indeed shown a wise and liberal policy by its permission for the alienation of the crown lands in Angola ; but the law giving it effect is so fenced round with limitations, and so deluged with verbiage, that to plain people it seems anything but a straightforward licence to foreigners to become hmd fide landholders and culti- vators of the soil. At present the tolls paid on the different hues of road for ferries and bridges, are equal to the interest of large sums of money, though but a small amount has been expended in making available roads. There are two churches and a hospital in ruins at Massangano ; and the remains of two convents are pointed out, one of which is said to have been an estabhshment of black Benedictines, which, if successful, considering the materials the bretln-en had to work on, must have been a laborious undertaking. There is neither priest nor schoolmaster in the town, but I was pleased to observe a number of children taught by one of the inhabitants. The cultivated lands attached to- all these conventual establishments in Angola, are now rented by the Government of Loanda, and thither the bishop lately removed aU the gold and silver vessels belonging to them. The fort of Massangano is small, but in good repair : it contains some very ancient guns, which were loaded from the breech, and must have been formidable weapons in their time. The natives of this country entertain a remarkable dread of great guns, and this tends much to the permanence of the Portuguese authority. They dread a cannon greatly, though the carriage be so rotten 406 FIEES— THE KISAMAS. Chap. XX. that it would fall to pieces at the first shot ; the fort of Pungo Andongo is kept securely by cannon perched on cross sticks alone ! Massangano was a very important town at the time the Dutch held forcible possession of Loanda and part of Angola ; but when, in the year 1648, the Dutch were expelled from this country by a small body of Portuguese, under the Governor Salvador Correa de Sa Benevides, Massangano was left to sink into its present decay. Since it was partially abandoned by the Portuguese, several baobab-trees have sprung up and attained a diameter of eighteen or twenty inches, and are about twenty feet high. No certain conclusion can be drawn from these instances, as it is not known at what time after 1648 they began to grow ; but their present size shows that their growth is not unusually slow. Several fii'cs occurred during our stay, by the thatch having, tlirough long exposm-e to a torrid sun, become like tinder. The roofs became ignited without any visible cause except the intense solar rays, and excited terror in the minds of the inliabitants, as the sKghtest spark carried by the wind would have set the whole town in a blaze. There is not a single inscription on stone "visible in Massangano. If destroyed to-morrow, no one could tell where it, and most Portuguese interior villages, stood, any more than we can do those of the Balonda. Dm'ing the occupation of tliis town, the Coanza was used for the purpose of navigation, but their vessels were so frequently plundered by then- Dutch neighbours, that, when they regained the good port of Loanda, they no longer made use of the river. We remained here four days, m hopes of obtaining an observation for the longitude, but at this season of the year the sky is almost constantly overcast by a thick canopy of clouds of a milk-and- water hue ; tliis continues until the rainy season (which was now close at hand) commences. The lands on the north side of the Coanza belong to the Quisamas (Kisamas), an independent tribe, which the Portuguese have not been able to subdue. The few who came under my observation possessed much of the Bushman or Hottentot feature, and were dressed in strips of soft bark hanging from the waist to the knee. They deal largely in salt, which their country pro- Chap. XX. DOMESTIC FOWL. 407 duces in great abundance. It is brouglit in crystals of about 12 inches long and IJ in diameter. Tliis is hawked about every- where in Angola, and, next to calico, is the most common medium of barter. The Kisama are brave ; and when the Portuguese army followed them into their forests, they reduced the invaders to extremity by tapping all the reservoirs of water, which were no other than the enormous baobabs of the coimtry, hollowed into eist<3rns. As the Kisama country is ill suppHed vnth. water other- wise, the Portuguese were soon obhged to retreat. Their country l}Tng near to Massangano is low and marshy, but becomes more elevated in the distance, and beyond them he the lofty dark mountain-ranges of the Libollo, another powerftd and independent people. Near Massangano I observed what seemed to be an effort of nature to furnish a variety of domestic fowls, more capable than the common kind, of bearing the heat of the sun. This was a hen and chickens, with all then- feathers cm-led upwards ; thus giving shade to the body ^vithout increasing the lieat. They are here named " kisafu " by the native population, who pay a high price for them when they wish to offer them as a sacrifice, and by the Portuguese they are termed " arripiada," or shivering. There seems to be a tendency in nature to afford varieties adapted to the convenience of man. A kind of very short-legged fowl among the Boers w^as obtained, in consequence of observing that such were more easily caught for transportation, in their frequent removals in search of pasture. A similar instance of securing a variety, occurred with the short- limbed sheep in America. Eetuming by ascending the Lucalla into Cazengo, we had an oppoi-tunity of visiting several flourishing coffee plantations, and observed that several men, who had begun with no capital but honest industry, had in the course of a few years acquired a com- fortable subsistence. One of these, Mr. Pinto, generously furnished me with a good supply of liis excellent coffee, and my men with a breed of rabbits to carry to then- own country. Their lands, granted by Government, yielded, without much labour, coffee sufficient for all the necessaries of life. The fact of other avenues of wealth opening up so readily, seems like a providential invitation to forsake the slave-trade and engage 408 IXDUSTKIAL EMPLOYMENTS. Chap. XX. Double-handled Angola hoe. in lawful commerce. We saw the female population occupied, as usual, in. the spiuning of cotton and cultivation of their lands. Their only instrument for culture is a double-handled hoe, which is worked mth a sort of dragging motion. Many of the men were employed in weaving. The latter appear to be less indus- trious than the former, for they require a month to finish a single web. There is, however, not much inducement to industry, for, notwithstanding the time consumed in its manufacture, each web is sold for only two shillings. On returning to Golungo Alto, I found several of my men laid up with fever. One of the reasons for my leaving them there was, that they might recover from the fatigue of the journey from Loanda, which had much more effect upon their feet than hun- dreds of miles had on our way westwards. They had always been accustomed to moisture in their own well-watered land, and we certainly had a superabundance of that in Loanda. The roads, however, from Loanda to Golungo Alto were both hard and dry, and they suffered severely ia consequence ; yet they were com- posing songs to be sung when they should reach home. The Argonauts were nothing to them ; and they remarked very im- pressively to me, " It was well you came mth Makololo, for no tribe could have done what we have accomplished in coming to the white man's country : we are the true ancients who can teU wonderful things." Two of them now had fever in the contiuued form, and became jaundiced, the whites or conjunctival membrane Chap. XX. FEVER— INSANITY. 409 of their eyes becoming as yellow as saffron ; and a third suffered from an attack of mania. He came to his companions one day, and said, " Remain weU. I am called away by the gods ! " and set off at the top of his speed. The young men caught him be- fore he had gone a mile, and bound him. By gentle treatment and watching for a few days he recovered. I have observed several instances of this kind in the country, but very few eases of idiocy, and I believe that continued insanity is rare. 410 DESERTED CONVENT. Chap. XXI. CHAPTEE XXL Visit a deserted convent — Favourable report of Jesuits and their teaching — Gradations of native society — Punishment of thieves — Pahn-toddy ; its "baneful eifects — Freemasons — MaiTiages and funerals — Litigation — Mr. Canto's illness — Bad behaviour of his slaves — An entertainment — Ideas on free-labour — Loss of American cotton-seed — Abundance of cotton in the country — Sickness of Sekeletu's horse — Eclipse of the sun — Insects which distil water — Experiments with them — Proceed to Am- baca — Sickly season — OflSce of commandant — Punishment of official delinquents — Present from Mr. Schut of Loanda — Visit Pungo Andongo — Its good pasturage, grain, fruit, Szc. — The fort and columnar rocks — The Queen of Jinga — Salubrity of Pungo Andongo — Price of -a slave — A merchant-prince — His hospitality — Hear of the loss of my papers in *' Forerunner" — Narrow escape from an alligator — Ancient burial-places — Neglect of agriculture in Angola — Manioc the staple product — Its cheapness — Sickness — Friendly visit from a coloured priest — The Prmce of Congo — No priests in the interior of Angola. While waiting for the recovery of my men, I visited, in com- pany with my friend Mr. Canto, the deserted convent of St. Hilarion, at Bango, a few miles north-west of Golungo Alto. It is situated in a magnificent valley, containing a population num- bering 4000 hearths. Tliis is the abode of the Sova, or Chief Bango, who still holds a place of authority under the Portuguese. The garden of the convent, the church, and dormitories of the brethren, are still kept m a good state of repair. I looked at the furniture, couches, and large chests for holding the provisions of the brotherhood ydth interest, and would fain have learned some- thing of the former occupants; but all the books and sacred vessels had lately been removed to Loanda, and even the graves of the good men stand without any record : their resting-places are, however, carefully tended. AU speak well of the Jesuits and other missionaries, as the Capucliins, &c., for having attended diligently to the instruction of the cliildren.- They were sup- posed to have a tendency to take the part of the people against the Government, and were supplanted by priests, concerning whom no regret is expressed that they were allowed to die out. In Chap. XXI. GRADATIONS OF SOCIETY. 411 viewing the present fruits of fonner missions, it is impossible not to feel assured that, if the Jesuit teaching has been so permanent, that of Protestants, who leave the Bible in the hands of their con- verts, wiU not be less abiding. The chief Bango has built a large two-story house close by the convent, but superstitious fears pre- vent him from sleepmg in it. The Portuguese take advantage of all the gradations into wliich native society has di\dded itself. This man, for instance, is still a sova or chief, has his councillors, and maintains the same state, as when the country was indepen- dent. When any of his people are guilty of theft, he pays down the amount of goods stolen at once, and reimburses himself out of the property of the tliief so effectually, as to be benefited by the transaction. The people under him are diidded into a number of classes. There are his councillors, as the liighest, who are generally head-men of several villages, and the carriers, the lowest free men. One class above the last, obtains the privilege of wearing shoes from the chief, by paying for it ; another, the soldiers or mihtia, pay for the privilege of serving, the advantage being, that they are not afterwards hable to be made carriers. They are also divided into gentlemen and Httle gentlemen, and, though quite black, speak of themselves as white men, and of the others, who may not wear shoes, as " blacks." The men of all these classes trust to their wives for food, and spend most of their time in drinking the palm- toddy. This toddy is the juice of the palm-oil tree {Elceis Gui- neensis), which, when tapped, yields a sweet clear liquid, not at all intoxicating while fresh, but, when allowed to stand till the afternoon, causes inebriation and many crimes. This toddy, called malova, is the bane of the country. Culprits are continually brought before the commandants for assaults, committed tlirough its influence. Men come up with deep gashes on their heads, and one, who had burned his father's house, I saw making a profound bow to Mr. Canto, and volunteering to explain why he did the deed. There is also a sort of fraternity of freemasons, named Em- pacasseiros, mto which no one is admitted unless he is an expert hunter, and can shoot well with the gun. They are distinguished by a fillet of buffalo-liide around their heads, and are employed as messengers in all cases requiring express. They are very trust- worthy, and, when on active scrAdce, form the best native troops 412 MAERIAGES AND FUNERALS. Chap. XXI. tlie Portuguese possess. The militia are of no value as soldiers, but cost the country nothing, being supported by their wives. Their duties are chiefly to guard the residences of commandants, and to act as poHce. The cliief recreations of the natives of Angola are marriages and funerals. When a young woman is about to be married, she is placed in a hut alone and anointed ^dth various unguents, and many incantations are employed, in order to secure good fortune and fruitfulness. Here, as almost everywhere in the south, the height of good fortune is to bear sons. They often leave a hus- band altogether, if they have daughters only. In their dances, when any one may wish, to deride another, in the accompan}4ng song a line is introduced, " So and so has no children, and never will get any." She feels the insult so keenly, that it is not un- common for her to rush away and commit suicide. After some days, the bride elect is taken to another hut, and adorned with aU the richest clothing and ornaments that the relatives can either lend or borrow. She is then placed in a pubhc situation, saluted as a lady, and presents made by aU her acquaintances are placed around her. After this she is taken to the residence of her hus- band, where she has a hut for herself, and becomes one of several wives, for polygamy is general. Dancing, feasting, and drinking on such occasions are prolonged for several days. In case of separation, the woman returns to her father's family, and the hus- band receives back what he gave for her. In nearly all cases a man gives a price for the wife, and, in cases of mulattoes, as much as 601. is often given to the parents of the bride. This is one of the evils the Bishop was trying to remedy. In cases of death the body is kept several days, and there is a grand concourse of both sexes, with beating of drums, dances, and debauchery, kept up with feasting, &c., according to the means of the relatives. The great ambition of many of the blacks of Angola is to give their friends an expensive funeral. Often when one is asked to sell a pig, he replies, " I am keeping it in case of the death of any of my friends." A pig is usually slaugh- tered and eaten on the last day of the ceremonies, and its head thrown into the nearest stream or river. A native wiU sometimes appear intoxicated on these occasions, and, if blamed for his in- temperance, TviU reply, " Why ! my mother is dead !" as if he Chap. XXI. MISCONDUCT OF SLAVES. 413 thouglit it a sufficient justification. The expenses of funerals are so heavy, that often years elapse before they can defray them. These people are said to be very litigious and obstinate : constant disputes are taking place respecting their lands. A case came before the weekly court of the Commandant, involving property in a palm-tree worth two pence. The judge advised the pursuer to withdi'aw the case, as the mere expenses of entering it would be much more than the cost of the tree. " 0 no," said he ; "I have a piece of cali'co with me for the clerk, and money for yourself. It's my right, I will not forego it." The caHco itseK cost three or four shillings. They rejoice if they can say of an enemy, " I took liim before the court." My friend Mr. Canto, the Commandant, bemg seized with fever in a severe form, it afforded me much pleasure to attend Idm in his sickness, who had been so kind to me in mine. He was for some time in a state of insensibility, and I, having the charge of his establishment, had thus an opportunity of observing the workings of slavery. When a master is ill, the slaves run riot among the eatables. I did not know this, until I observed that every time the sugar-basin came to the table it was empty. On visiting my patient by night, I passed along a corridor, and un- expectedly came upon the washerwoman, eating pine-apples and sugar. All the sweetmeats were devoured, and it was difficult for me to get even bread and butter, until I took the precaution of locking the pantry door. Probably the slaves thouglit, that, as both they and the luxuries were the master's property, there was no good reason why they should be kept apart. Debarred by my precaution from these sources of enjoyment, they took to kiUing the fowls and goats, and, when the animal was dead, brought it to me saymg, " We found this thing lying out there." They then enjoyed a feast of flesh. A feeling of in- security prevails throughout this country. It is quite common to furnish visitors with the keys of their rooms. When called on to come to breakfast or dinner, each locks his door and puts the key in liis pocket. At Kolobeng we never locked our doors by night or by day for months together ; but there slavery is unknown. The Portuguese do not seem at aU bigoted in their attachment to slavery, nor yet in their prejudices against colour. Mr. Canto 414 LOSS OF COTTOX-SEED. Chap. XXI. gave an entertainment in order to draw all classes together and promote general good vnJl. Two sovas or native cliiefs were present, and took their places without the least appearance of embarrassment. The sova of Kilombo appeared m the dress of a general, and the sova of Bango was gaily attned in a red coat, profusely ornamented with tinsel. The latter had a band of musicians wdth him consisting of six trumpeters and four drummers, who performed very well. These men are fond of titles, and the Portuguese Government humours them by conferring honorary captaincies, &c. : the sova of Bango was at present anxious to obtain the title of " Major of all the Sovas." At the tables of other gentlemen I observed the same thing constantly occurring. At this meetmg Mr. Canto communicated some ideas which I had witten out on the dignity of labom-, and the superiority of free over slave labom\ The Portuguese gentlemen present were anxiously expecting an arrival of American cotton-seed from Mr. Gabriel. They are now in the transition state fi'om unlawful to lawful trade, and turn eagerly to cotton, coffee, and sugar, as new sources of wealth. Mr. Canto had been commissioned by them to purchase three sugar-mills. Our cruisers have been the prin- cipal agents in compelling them to abandon the slave-trade ; and om' Government, in furnishing them with a supply of cotton-seed, showed a generous intention to aid them in commencing a more honom-able com^se. It can scarcely be behoved, however, that after Lord Clarendon had been at the trouble of procuring fresh cotton-seed tlirough our minister at Washington, and had sent it out to the care of H. M. Commissioner at Loanda, probably from having fallen into the hands of a few incorrigible slave- traders, it never reached its destination. It was most likely cast into the sea off Ambriz, and my friends at Golungo Alto were left without the means of commencing a new enterprise. Mr. Canto mentioned that there is now much more cotton in the country than can be consumed ; and if he had possession of a few hundred pounds, he would buy up aU the oil and cotton at a fafr price, and thereby bring about a revolution in the agricul- ture of the country. These commodities are not produced in greater quantity, because the people have no market for those, which now spriag up almost spontaneously around them. The above was put dovm in my journal, when I had no idea that Chap. XXI. ILLNESS OF SEKELETU'S HOESE. 415 enlarged supplies of cotton from new sources were so much needed at home. It is common to cut down cotton-trees as a nuisance, and culti- vate beans, potatoes, and manioc, sufficient only for their own consumption. I have the impression that cotton, which is decidu- ous in America, is perennial here ; for the plants I saw in winter were not dead, though gomg by the name Algodao Americana, or American cotton. The rents paid for gardens belonging to the old convents are merely nominal, varying from one shilling to three pounds per annum. The higher rents being realized from those in the immediate vicinity of Loanda, none but Portuguese or half-castes can pay them. AVlien about to start, the horse wliich the Governor had kindly presented for Sekeletu was seized with mflammation, which de- layed us some time longer, and we ultimately lost it. We had been careful to watch it when coming tlirough the district of Matamba, where we had discovered the tsetse, that no insect might Hght upon it. The change of diet here, may have had some influence in produciag the disease ; for I was informed by Dr. Welweitsch, an able German natm^ahst, whom we found pursuing his arduous labours here, and whose life we hope may be spared to give his researches to the world, that, of fifty-eight kinds of grasses found at Loanda, only three or four species exist here, and these of the most diminutive kinds. The twenty-four dif- ferent species of grass of Golungo Alto are nearly all gigantic. Indeed, gigantic grasses, climbers, shrubs, and trees, with but few plants, constitute the vegetation of tliis region. November 20th, — An ecHpse of the sun, which I had anxiously hoped to observe with a view of determining the longitude, hap- pened this morning, and, as often took place in this cloudy climate, the sun was covered four minutes before it began. When it shone forth, the echpse was in progress, and a few minutes before it should (according to my calculations) have ended, the sun was again completely obscured. The greatest patience and perse- verance are required, if one wishes to ascertain his position when it is the rainy season. Before leaving, I had an opportunity of observing a curious insect, which inhabits trees of the fig family {Ficus\ upwards of twenty species of wliich are found here. Seven or eight of them 416 INSECTS WHICH DISTIL WATER. Chap. XXI. cluster round a spot on one of the smaller brandies, and there keep up a constant distillation of a clear fluid, which, dropping to the ground, forms a Httle puddle below. If a vessel is placed under them in the evening, it contains three or four pints of fluid in the morning. The natives say that, if a drop falls into the eyes, it causes inflammation of these organs. To the question whence is this fluid derived, the people reply that the insects suck it out of the tree, and our own naturalists give the same answer. I have never seen an orifice, and it is scarcely possible that the tree can yield so much. A similar but much smaller homopterous insect, of the family Cercopidce, is kno\\Ti in England as the frog-hopper {AjpTiTOjphora spumarid), when full grown and furnished with wings ; but while still in the pupa state it is called " cuckoo-spit^^' from the mass of froth in which it envelops itself. The circulation of sap in plants in our climate, especially of the graminaceae, is not quick enough to yield much moistm-e. The African species is five or six times the size of the Enghsh. In the case of branches of the fig-tree, the point the insects congregate on is soon marked by a number of incipient roots, such as are thrown out when a cutting is inserted in the ground, for the purpose of starting another tree. I beheve that both the English and African in- sects belong to the same family, and differ only in size, and that the chief part of the moisture is derived from the atmosphere. I leave it for naturalists to explain how these Kttle creatures distil both by night and day as much water as they please, and are more mdependent than her Majesty's steam-ships, with their apparatus for condensing steam, for, without coal, their abun- dant supphes of sea-water are of no avail. I tried the following experiment : — Finding a colony of these insects busily distilling on a branch of the Ricinus communis, or castor-oil plant, I denuded about 20 inches of the bark on the tree side of the insects, and scraped away the inner bark, so as to destroy aU the ascending vessels. I also cut a hole in the side of the branch, reaching to the middle, and then cut out the pith and internal vessels. The distillation was then going on at the rate of one drop each 67 seconds, or about 2 ounces 5-^ drams in 24 hours. Next morning the distillation, so far from being affected by the attempt to stop the supphes, supposing they had come up through the branch from the tree, was increased to a drop every 5 seconds, or 12 drops Chap. XXI. EXPERIMENTS. 417 per minute, making 1 pint (16 oimces) in every 24 liom^. I then cut the branch so much, that chu'ing the day it broke ; but they still went on at the rate of a drop every 5 seconds, while another colony on a branch of the same tree gave a drop every 17 seconds only, or at the rate of about 10 ounces 4-|- drams in 24 hours. I finally cut off the branch ; but this was too much for their patience, for they immediately decamped, as insects ^viU do from either a dead branch or a dead animal, which Indian hunters soon know, when they sit down on a recently killed bear. The presence of greater moisture in the air increased the power of these distillers : the period of greatest activity was in the morning, when the air and ever)i:hing else was charged vdth. dew. HaA-ing but one day left for experiment, I found again that another colony on a branch, denuded in the same way, yielded a drop every 2 seconds, or 4 pints 10 ounces in 24 hours, while a colony on a branch untouched, pelded a drop every 11 seconds, or 16 ounces 2iS drams in 24 hours. I regretted somewhat the want of time to institute another experiment, namely, to cut a branch and place it in water, so as to keep it in life, and then observe if there was any diminution of the quantity of water in the vessel. This alone was wanting to make it certain that they draw water from the atmosphere. I imagine that they have some power of which we are not aware, besides that nerv'ous influence which causes constant motion to our own involuntary muscles, the power of life-long action without fatigue. The reader win remember, in connection with this insect, the case of the ants ali-eady mentioned. December 14:th. — Both myself and men having recovered from severe attacks of fever, we left the hospitable residence of Mr. Canto with a deep sense of liis kindness to us aU, and proceeded on our way to Ambaca. (Lat. 9° 16' 35" S., long. 15° 23' E.) Frequent rains had faUen in October and November, which were nearly always accompanied vdth thunder. Occasionally the quantity of moisture in the atmosphere is greatly increased wdthout any \Tsible cause : this imparts a sensation of considerable cold, though the thermometer exliibits no fall of the mercury. The greater humidity in the air, affording a better conducting medium for the radiation of heat from the body, is as dangerous as a sudden faU of the thermometer : it causes considerable disease among the 2 E 418 OFFICIAL DELINQUENTS. Chap. XXI. natives, and this season is denominated " carneirado," as if by the disease they were slaughtered like sheep. The season of these changes, which is the most favourable for Europeans, is the most imhealthy for the native population; and tliis is by no means a climate, in which either natives or Europeans can indulge in irregularities with impunity. Owing to the weakness of the men who had been sick, we were able to march but short distances. Three hom-s and a half brought us to the banks of the Caloi, a small stream which flows into the Senza. This is one of the parts of the country reputed to yield petroleum, but the geological formation, being mica schist dipping towards the eastward, did not promise much for our finding it. Our hospitable friend Mr. Mellot accompanied us to another Kttle river, called the Quango, where I saw two fine boys, the sons of the sub-commandant, Mr. Feltao, who, though only from six to eight years old, were subject to fever. We then passed on in the bright sunlight, the whole country looking so fresh and green after the rains, and everything so cheering, one could not but wonder to find it so feverish. We found on reaching Ambaca that the gallant old soldier Laurence Jos^ Marquis, had, since our passing Icollo i Bengo, been promoted, on account of his stern integrity, to the govern- ment of this important district. The office of commandant is much coveted by the officers of the line who come to Angola, not so much for the salary as for the perquisites, which, when managed skilfully, in the course of a few years make one rich. An idea may be formed of the conduct of some of these officials from the following extract from the Boletim of Loanda of the 28th of October, 1854. " The acting governor-general of the province of Angola and its dependencies determines as follows. " Having instituted an investigation (Syndecancia) against the commandant of the fort of , a captain of the army of Por- tugal in commisssion in this province, , on account of nume- rous complaints, which have come before this Government, of violences and extortions practised by the said commandant, and those complaints appearing by the result of the investigation to be well founded, it will be convenient to exonerate the captain referred to, from the command of the fort of , to which he Chap. XXI. PUNGO ANDONGO. 419 had been nominated by the Portfolio of this general Government, No. 41, of 27th December of the past year ; and if not otherwise determined, the same official shall be judged by a council of war for the criminal acts, wliich are to him attributed." Even this public mention of his crimes, attaches no stigma to the man's character. The council of war, by which these delinquents always prefer to be judged, is composed of men who eagerly ex- pect to occupy the post of commandant themselves, and anticipate their own trial for similar acts at some future time. The severest sentence a council of War awards, is a few weeks' suspension from office in his regiment. This want of official integrity, which is not at all attributable to the Home Government of Portugal, would prove a serious im- pediment in the way of foreign enterprise developing the resources of this rich province. And to this cause indeed, may be ascribed the failure of the Portuguese laws for the entire suppression of the slave-trade. The officers ought to receive higher pay, if integrity is expected from them. At present, a captain's pay for a year, will only keep him in good uniform. The high pay our own officers receive, has manifest advantages. Before leaving Ambaca, we received a present of ten head of cattle from Mr. Schut of Loanda, and, as it shows the cheapness of provisions here, I may mention that the cost was only about a guinea per head. On crossing the Lucalla, we made a detour to the south, in order to visit the famous rocks of Pungo Andongo. As soon as we crossed the rivulet Lotete, a change in the vegetation of the country was apparent. We found trees identical with those to be seen south of the Chobe. The grass too stands in tufts, and is of that kind which the natives consider to be best adapted for cattle. Two species of grape-bearing vines abound everywhere in this district, and the influence of the good pastm^age is seen in the plump condition of the cattle. In all my previous inquiries respecting the vegetable products of Angola I was invariably directed to Pungo Andongo. Do you grow wheat? " O yes, in Pungo Andongo." — Grapes, figs, or peaches? " 0 yes, in Pungo Andongo." — Do you make butter, cheese, &c. ? The uniform answer was, " O yes, there is abundance of all these in Pungo Andongo." But when we arrived here, we found that the 2 E 2 Chap. XXL PUNGO ANDOXGO. 421 answers all referred to the actiyity of one man, Colonel Manuel Antonio Pii-es. Tlie presence of the ^^dld gi-ape shows that vineyards might be cultivated with success; the wheat gi'ows well wdthout irrigation ; and any one who tasted the butter and cheese at the table of Colonel Pires would prefer them to the stale produce of the Irish dairy, in general use throughout that province. The cattle in this coimtry are seldom milked, on account of the strong prejudice wliicli the Portuguese entertain against the use of milk. Tliey beheve that it may be used vdth. safety in the morning; but if taken after midday, that it will cause fever. It seemed to me that there was not much reason for carefully avoiding a few drops m their coffee, after having devoured ten times the amount in the shape of cheese at dinner. The fort of Pungo Andongo (lat. 9° 42' 14" S., long. 15° 30' E.) is situated in the midst of a group of curious columnar-shaped rocks, each of wliich is upwards of three hmidi-ed feet in height. They are composed of conglomerate, made up of a great variety of rounded pieces in a matrix of dark red sand- stone. They rest on a tliick stratum of this last rock, mth very few of the pebbles in its substance. On this a fossil palm has been fomid, and if of the same age as those on the eastern side of the continent, on which similar palms now lie, there may be coal underneath this, as weU as under that at Tete. The asserted existence of petroleum-springs at Dande, and near Cambambe, would seem to indicate the presence of tliis useful mineral, though I am not aware of any one ha\TQg actually seen a seam of coal tilted up to the surface in Angola, as we have at Tete. The gigantic piUars of Pungo Andongo, have been formed by a cm-rent of the sea coming from the S.S.E., for, seen from the top, they appear armnged in that du-ection, and must have A^ith- stood the surges of the ocean at a period of our world's liistory, when the relations of land and sea were totally different from what they are now, and long before the morning stars sang together, and aU the sons of God shouted for joy, to see the abodes prepared which man was soon to fill." The embedded pieces in the conglo- merate are of gneiss, clay shale, mica and sandstone schists, trap, and porph}Ty, most of wliich are large enough to give the whole the appearance of being the only remaining vestiges of vast primseval banks of shingle. Several httle streams run amongst these rocks, 422 THE QUEEN OF JINGA. Chap. XXI. and in the central part of the pillars stands the village, completely environed by well-nigh inaccessible rocks. The pathways into the village, might be defended by a small body of troops against an army ; and tliis place was long the stronghold of the tribe called Jinga, the original possessors of the country. We were shown a foot-print carved on one of these rocks. It is spoken of as that of a famous queen, who reigned over all this region. In looking at these rude attempts at commemoration, one feels the value of letters. In the history of Angola, we find that the famous Queen Donna Anna de Souza came from the vicinity, as Ambassadress from her brother Gola Bandy, king of the Jinga, to Loanda, in 1621, to sue for peace, and astonished the governor by the readiness of her answers. The governor proposed, as a condition of peace, the payment by the Jinga of an annual tribute. " People talk of tribute after they have conquered, and not before it : we come to talk of peace, not of subjection," was the ready answer. The governor was as much nonplussed as our Cape governors often are, when they tell the Caffres "to put it all down in writing, and they will then be able to answer them." She remained some time in Loanda, gained aU she sought, and, after being taught by the missionaries, was baptized, and returned to her own country with honour. She succeeded to the kingdom on the death of her brother, whom it was supposed she poisoned, but in a subsequent war with the Portuguese, she lost nearly all her army in a great battle fought in 1627. She returned to the church after a long period of apostacy, and died in extreme old age ; and the Jinga still live as an independent people to the north of this their ancient country. No African tribe has ever been destroyed. In former times the Portuguese imagined that this place was particularly unhealthy, and banishment to the black rocks of Pimgo Andongo, was thought by their judges to be a much severer sentence than transportation to any part of the coast ; but this district is now well known to be the most healthy part of Angola. The water is remarkably pure, the soil is hght, and the country open and undulating, with a general slope down towards the river Coanza, a few miles distant. That river is the southern boundary of the Portuguese, and beyond, to the S. and S.W., we see the high mountains of the LiboUo. On the S.E. we have also Chap. XXI. A MERCHANT-PRINCE. 423 a mountainous country, inhabited by the Ejmbonda or Ambonda, who are said by Colonel Pires to be a very brave and independent people, but hospitable and fair in their dealings. They are rich in cattle, and their country produces much bees' -wax, which is carefully collected, and brought to the Portuguese, with whom they have always been on good terms. The Ako (Haco), a branch of this family, inhabit the left bank of the Coanza above this viUage, who, instead of bringing slaves for sale, as formerly, now occasionally bring wax for the pur- chase of a slave from the Portuguese. I saw a boy sold for twelve shillings: he said that he belonged to the country of Matiamvo. Here I bought a pair of well-made boots of good tanned leather, which reached above the knee, for five shillings and eight pence, and that was just the price given for one pound of ivory by Mr. Pires ; consequently the boy was worth two pairs of boots, or two pounds of ivory. The Libollo on the S. have not so good a character, but the Coanza is always deep enough to form a line of defence. Colonel Pires is a good example of what an honest iudustrious man in this country may become. He came as a servant in a ship, and by a long course of persevering labour, has raised himself to be the richest merchant in Angola. He possesses some thousands of cattle ; and, on any emergency, can appear ui the field with several hundred armed slaves. Wliile enjoying the hospitahty of this merchant prince in his commodious residence, which is outside the rocks, and commands a beautiful view of all the adjacent country, I learned that all my despatches, maps, and journal, had gone to the bottom of the sea in the mail packet, " Forerunner." I felt so glad that my friend Lieutenant Bedingfeld, to whose care I had committed them, though in the most imminent danger, had not shared a similar fate, that I was at once reconciled to the labour of rewTitiug. I availed myself of the kindness of Colonel Pires, and remained till the end of the year, reproducing my lost papers. Colonel Pires having another establishment on the banks of the Coanza, about sis: miles distant, I visited it with him about once a week for the purpose of recreation. The difference of temperature caused by the lower altitude, was seen in the cashew- trees, for while, near the rocks, these trees were but coming into flower, those at the lower station were ripening their fruit. 424 ANCIENT BURIAL-PLACE. Chap. XXI. Cocoa-nut trees and bananas bear well at tbe lower station, but yield little or no fruit at the upper. The difference indicated by the thermometer was 7°. The general range near the rocks was 67° at 7 A.M., 74*^ at midday, and 72° in the evenmg. A slave-boy belonging to Colonel Pires, having stolen and eaten some lemons in the evening, went to the river to wash his mouth, so as not to be detected by the flavour. An alligator seized him and carried him to an island in the middle of the stream ; there the boy grasped hold of the reeds, and baffled all the efforts of the reptile to dislodge him, till his companions, attracted by his cries, came in a canoe to his assistance. The alligator at once let go his hold, for when out of his own element he is cowardly. The boy had many marks of the teeth in his abdomen and thigh, and those of the claws on his legs and arms. The slaves in Colonel Pires' estabKshments, appeared more lil^e free servants than any I had elsewhere seen. Everything was neat and clean, while generally, where slaves are the only domestics, there is an aspect of slovenliness, as if they went on the principle of always doing as little for their masters as possible. In the country near to tliis station were a large number of the ancient burial-places of the Jinga. These are simply large mounds of stones, with drinking and cooking vessels of rude pottery on them. Some are arranged in a circular form, two or three yards in diameter, and shaped like a haycock. There is not a single vestige of any inscription. The natives of Angola generally have a strange predilection for bringing their dead to the sides of the most frequented paths. They have a particular anxiety to secure the point where cross roads meet. On and around the graves, are planted tree euphorbias and other species of that family. On the grave itself, they also place water- bottles, broken pipes, cooking vessels, and sometimes a little bow and arrow. The Portuguese Government, wishing to prevent this custom, affixed a penalty on any one burying in the roads, and appouited places of public sepulture in every district in the country. The people persist, however, in spite of the most stringent enforcement of the law, to follow their ancient custom. The country between the Coanza and Pungo Andongo is Chap. XXI. MANIOC THE CHIEF PRODUCT. 425 covered with low trees, bushes, and fine pasturage. In the latter, we were pleased to see our old acquaintances the gaudy gladiolus, Amaryllis toxicaria, hymanthus, and other bulbs in as flourishing a condition as at the Cape. It is surprising that so Kttle has been done in the way of agriculture in Angola. Kaising wheat by means of irrigation has never been tried ; no plough is ever used ; and the only instru- ment is the native hoe, in the hands of slaves. The chief object of agriculture is the manioc, which does not contain nutriment sufficient to give proper stamina to the people. Tlie half-caste Portuguese have not so much energy as their fathers. They subsist chiefly on the manioc, and, as that can be eaten either raw, roasted, or boiled, as it comes from the ground ; or fermented in water, and then roasted or dried after fermentation, and baked or pounded iato fine meal ; or rasped into meal and cooked as fariaa ; or made into confectionery with butter and sugar, it does not so soon pall upon the palate as one might imagine, when told that it constitutes their principal food. The leaves boiled make an excellent vegetable for the table ; and, when eaten by goats, their milk is much increased. The wood is a good fuel, and yields a large quantity of potash. If planted iu a dry soil, it takes two years to come to perfection, requiring, duriag that time, one weeding only. It bears drought well, and never shrivels up, Hke other plants, when deprived of rain. When planted in low alluvial soils, and either well supphed with raiu or annually flooded, twelve, or even ten months, are sufficient to bring it to maturity. The root rasped while raw, placed upon a cloth, and rubbed with the hands while water is poured upon it, parts mtli its starchy glutinous matter, and this, when it settles at the bottom of the vessel, and the water poured off, is placed in the sun till nearly dry, to form tapioca. The process of drying is com- pleted on an iron plate over a slow fire, the mass being stirred meanwhile with a stick, and when quite dry it appears aggluti- nated into little globules, and is in the form we see the tapioca of commerce. This is never eaten by weevils, and so httle labour is required in its cultivation, that on the spot it is extremely cheap. Throughout the interior parts of Angola, fine manioc-meal, which could with, ease have been converted either into su]3erior starch or tapioca, is commonly sold at the rate of about ten pounds for a 426 VISIT FEOM A COLOURED PRIEST. Chap. XXI. penny. All this region, lioweyer, lias no means of transport to Loanda, other than the shoulders of the carriers and slaves, over a footpath. Cambambe, to which the navigation of the Coanza reaches, is reported to be thirty leagues below Pungo Andongo. A large waterfall is the limit on that side ; and another exists higher up, at the confluence of the Lombe (lat. 9° 41' 26" S., and about long. 16° E.), over which hippopotami and elephants are some- times drawn and killed. The river between is rapid, and generally rushes over a rocky bottom. Its source is pointed out as S.E. or S.S.E. of its confluence with the Lombe, and near Bihe. The situation of Bihe is not well known. When at Sanza, we were assured that it lies nearly south of that point, and eight days distant. This statement seemed to be coiToborated by our meeting many people going to Matiamvo and to Loanda from Bihe. Both parties had come to Sanza, and then branched off, one to the east, the other to the west. The source of the Coanza is thus probably not far from Sanza. I had the happiness of doiag a little good in the way of admi- nistering to the sick, for there are no doctors in the iaterior of Angola. Notwithstanding the general healthiness of this fine dis- trict, and its pleasant temperature, I was attacked by fever myself. While confined to my room, a gentleman of colour, a canon of the church, kindly paid me a visit. He was on a tour of visitation in the different interior districts, for the purpose of baptizing and marrying. He had lately been on a visit to Lisbon, ia company with the Prince of Congo, and had been invested with an order of honour by the King of Portugal as an acknowledgment of his services. He had aU the appearance of a true negro, but commanded the respect of the people, and Colonel P., who had known him for thirty years, pronoimced liim to be a good man. There are only three or fom* priests in Loanda, aU men of colour, but educated for the ofiice. About the time of my jom-ney in Angola, an offer was made to any young men of ability who might wish to devote themselves to the service of the Church, to afford them the requisite education at the Uni- versity of Coimbra in Portugal. I was informed, on what seemed good authority, that the Prince of Congo is professedly a Chris- tian, and that there are no fewer than twelve churches in that Chap. XXI. THE KING OF CONGO. 427 kmgdom, the fruits of the mission established in former times at San Salvador, the capital. These churches are kept in partial repair by the people, who also keep up the ceremonies of the Church, pronouncing some gibberish over the dead, in imitation of the Latin prayers which they had formerly heard. Many of them can read and write. When a King of Congo dies, the body is wrapped up in a great many folds of cloth, until a priest can come from Loanda to consecrate liis successor. The King of Congo still retains the title of Lord of Angola, which he had when the JiQga, the original possessors of the soil, owed him allegiance ; and, when he writes to the Governor of Angola, he places his own name first, as if addressing his vassal. The Jinga paid him tribute annually in co^mes, which were foimd on the island that shelters Loanda harbour, and, on refusing to continue payment, the King of Congo gave over the island to the Portu- guese, and thus their dominion commenced in tliis quarter. There is not much knowledge of the Christian rehgion in either Congo or Angola, yet it is looked upon with a certain degree of favour. The prevalence of fever, is probably the reason why no priest occupies a post in any part of the interior. They come on tours of visitation like that mentioned, and it is said that no expense is incurred, for all the people are ready not only to pay for their services, but also to furnish every article in their power, gratuitously. In view of the desolate condition of this fine mis- sionary field, it is more than probable that the presence of a few Protestants would soon provoke the priests, if not to love, to good works. 428 DEPARTURE FROM PUNGO ANDONGO. Chap. XXII. CHAPTER XXIL Leave Pimgo Andongo — Extent of Portuguese power — Meet traders and carriers — Red ants : their fierce attack ; usefulness, numbers — Descend the heights of Tala Mungongo — Fruit-trees in the valley of Cassange — Edible muscle — Birds — Cassange village — Quinine and cathorj'' — Sickness of Captain Neves' infant — A diviner thrashed — Death of the child — Mourning — Loss of life from the ordeal — Wide-spread super- stitions — The chieftainship — Charms — Receive copies of the * Times ' — Trading Pombeiros — Present for Matiamvo — Fever after westerly- winds — Capabilities of Angola for producing the raw materials of English manufacture — Trading parties with ivoiy — More fever — A hysena's choice — Makololo opinion of the Portuguese — Cypriano's debt — A funeral — Dread of disembodied spirits — Beautiful morning scenes — Cross- ing the Quango — Ambakistas called, " The Jews of Angola " — Fashions of the Bashinje — Approach the village of Sansawe — His idea of dignity — The Pombeiros' present — Long detention — A blow on the beard — ! Attacked in a forest — Sudden conversion of a fighting chief to peace prin- ciples by means of a revolver — No blood shed in consequence — Rate of travelling — Slave women — Way of addressing slaves — Their tliievish propensities — Feeders of the Congo or Zaire — Obliged to refuse presents — Cross the Loajima — Appearance of people ; hair fashions. January 1, 1855. — Haying, tlii-ough the kindness of Colonel Pii-es, reproduced some of my lost papers, I left Pungo Andongo tlie first day of this year ; and at Candumba, slept in one of the dairy establishments of my friend, who had sent forward orders for an ample supply of butter, cheese, and milk. Our path lay along the right bank of the Coanza. This is composed of the same sandstone rock, with pebbles, which forms the flooring of the country. The land is level, has much open forest, and is well adapted for pasturage. On reaching the confluence of the Lombe, we left the river, and proceeded in a north-easterly direction, tlirough a fine open green country, to the village of IMalange, where we struck into our former path. A few miles to the west of this, a path branches off to a new district named the Duke Braganza. Tliis path crosses the Lucalla, and several of its feeders. The whole of the country drained by these, is described as extremely fertile. The territory Chap. XXII. GEOLOGICAL STRUCTUKE. 429 west of Braganza is reported to be mountainous, well wooded and watered ; wild coffee is abundant, and the j)eople even make their huts of coffee-trees. The rivers Dande, Senza, and Lucalla, are said to rise in one mountain-range. Numerous tribes inhabit the country to the north, who are all independent. The Portuguese power extends chiefly over the tribes through whose lands we have passed. It may be said to be firmly seated only between the rivers Dande and Coanza. It extends inland about three hundred miles to the river Quango ; and the population, according to the imperfect data afforded by the census, given annually by the commandants of the fifteen or sixteen districts into wliich it is divided, cannot be under 600,000 souls. Leavmg Malange, we passed quickly, without deviation, along the path by which we had come. At Sanza (lat. 9° 37' 46" S., long. 16° 59' E.) we expected to get a little seed-wheat, but tliis was not now to be found in Angola. The underlying rock of the whole of this section, is that same sandstone which we have before noticed, but it gradually becomes finer in the grain, with the addition of a Httle mica, the further we go eastward ; we enter upon clay-shale at Tala Mungongo (lat. 9° 42' 37" S., long. 17° 27' E.), and find it dipping a little to the west. The general geological structure, is a broad fringe of mica and sandstone scliist (about 15° E.), dipping in towards the centre of the country, beneath these horizontal and sedimentary rocks of more recent date, which form an inland basin. The fringe is not, however, the highest in altitude, though the oldest in age. While at tliis latter place, we met a native of Bihe who has visited the country of Shinte three times, for the purposes of trade. He gave us some of the news of that distant part, but not a word of the Makololo, who have always been represented in the coun- tries to the north as a desperately savage race, whom no trader could visit with safety. The half-caste traders whom we met at Bhinte's, had returned to Angola with sixty-six slaves and upwards of fifty tusks of ivory. As we came along the path, we daily met long Hues of carriers bearing large square masses of bees'-wax, each about a hundred pounds weight, and numbers of elephants' tusks, the property of Angolese merchants. Many natives were proceeding to the coast also on their own account, carrying bees'- wax, ivory, and sweet oil. They appeared to travel in perfect 430 RED ANTS. Chap. XXII. security ; and at different parts of the road, we purchased fowls from them at a penny each. My men took care to celebrate their own daring in having actually entered ships, while the natives of these parts, who had endeavoured to frighten them on their way down, had only seen them at a distance. Poor fellows ! they were more than ever attentive to me ; and, as they were not obKged to erect sheds for themselves, in consequence of finding them already built at the different sleeping-places, all their care was bestowed in making me comfortable. Mashauana, as usual, made his bed with his head close to my feet, and never during the entire journey did I have to call him twice, for anything I needed. During our stay at Tala Mungongo, our attention was attracted to a species of red ant, which infests different parts of this country. It is remarkably fond of animal food. The commandant of the village having slaughtered a cow, slaves were obliged to sit up the whole night, burning fires of straw around the meat, to prevent them from devouring most of it. These ants are fre- quently met with in numbers, hke a small army. At a little distance, they appear as a brownish-red band, two or three inches wide, stretched across the path, all eagerly pressing on in one direction. If a person happens to tread upon them, they rush up his legs and bite with surprising vigour. The first time I encountered this, by no means contemptible enemy, was near Cassange. My attention being taken up in viewing the distant landscape, I accidentally stepped upon one of their nests. Not an instant seemed to elapse, before a simultaneous attack was made on various unprotected parts, up the trousers from below, and on my neck and breast above. The bites of these furies were like sparks of fire, and there was no retreat. I jumped about for a second or two, then in desperation tore off aU my clothing, and rubbed and picked them off seriatim as quickly as possible. Ugh ! they would make the most lethargic mortal look ahve. For- tunately no one observed tliis rencontre, or word might have been taken back to the village that I had become mad. I was once assaulted in a similar way, when sound asleep at night in my tent, and it was only by holding my blanket over the fii*e that I could get rid of them. It is really astonishing, how such small bodies can contain so large an amount of ill-nature. They not only bite, but twist themselves round after the mandibles are Chap. XXII. FKUIT-TKEES. 431 inserted, to produce laceration and pain, more than would be effected by the single wound. Frequently wliile sitting on the ox, as he happened to tread near a band, they would rush up his legs to the rider, and soon let him know that he had dis- turbed their march. They possess no fear, attacking with equal ferocity the largest as well as the smallest animals. When any person has leaped over the band, numbers of them leave the ranks and rush along the path, seemingly anxious for a fight. They are very useful in ridding the country of dead animal matter, and, when they visit a human habitation, clear it entirely of the destructive white ants and other vermin. They destroy many noxious insects and reptiles. The severity of their attack is greatly increased by their vast numbers, and rats, mice, lizards, and even the python natalensis, when in a state of surfeit from recent feeding, fall victims to their fierce onslaught. These ants never make lulls hke the wliite ant. Their nests are but a short distance beneath the soil, wliich has the soft appearance of the abodes of ants ia England. Occasionally they construct galleries over their path to the cells of the white ant, iu order to secure themselves from the heat of the sim duriug their marauding expeditions. January 15th, 1855. — We descended, in one hour, from the heights of Tala Mungongo. I counted the number of paces made on the slope downward, and found them to be sixteen hundred, which may give a perpendicular height of from twelve to fifteen hundred feet. Water boiled at 206° at Tala Mungongo above, and at 208° at the bottom of the declivity, the air being as 72° in the shade in the former case, and 94° ia the latter. The temperature generally throughout the day was from 94° to 97° in the coolest shade we could find. The ^ rivulets which cut up the valley of Cassange were now dry ; but the Lui and Luare contaiaed abundance of rather brackish water. The banlis are liued with palm, wild date-trees, and many guavas, the fruit of which was now becomiug ripe. A tree much Hke the mango abounds, but it does not yield fruit. In these rivers a kind of edible muscle is plentiful, the shells of which exist in all the alluvial beds of the ancient rivers, as far as the Kuruman. The brackish nature of the water, probably enables it to exist here. On the open grassy lawns, great numbers of a 432 CASSANGE VILLAGE. Chap. XXII. species of lark are seen. They are black, with yellow shoulders. Another black bird, with a long tail {Centropus Senegalensis), floats awkwardly, with its tail in a perpendicular position, over the long grass. It ahvays chooses the highest points, and is caught on them with bird-lime, the long black tail-feathers being higlily esteemed by the natives for plumes. We saw here also the " Lehututu " [Tragopan Leadheaterii), a large bird strongly resem- bling a tm-key ; it is black on the ground, but when it flies, the outer half of the Avings are white. It kills serpents, striking them dexterously behind the head. It derives its native name from the noise it makes, and it is found as far as Kolobeng. Another species like it, is called the Abyssinian hornbill. Before we reached Cassange, w^e were ovei-taken by the Com- mandant, Senhor Carvalho, who was returning, with a detachment of fifty men and a field-piece, from an unsuccessful search after some rebels. The rebels had fled, and aU he could do was to burn their huts. He kindly invited me to take up my residence with him, but, not ^isliing to pass by the gentleman, (Captain Neves) who had so kindly received me on my first arrival in the Portuguese possessions, I declined. Senhor Eego had been super- seded in liis command, because the Governor Amaral, who had come into office since my departure from Loanda, had determined that the law wliich requires the office of commandant to be ex- clusively occupied by military officers of the line, shoidd once more come into operation. I was again most kindly welcomed by my friend Captain Neves, whom I foimd labouring under a violent inflammation and abscess of the hand. There is nothing in the situation of this village to indicate unhealthiness, except perhaps the rank luxuriance of the vegetation. Nearly aU the Portu- guese inliabitants suffer from enlargement of the spleen, the effects of frequent intermittents, and have generally a sickly appearance. Thinking that tliis affection of the hand, was simply an effort of nature to get rid of malarious matter from the system, I recommended the use of quinine. He himself appKed the leaf of a jDlant called cathory, famed among the natives as an excellent remedy for ulcers. The cathory-leaves, when boiled, exude a gummy juice, which effectually shuts out the external air. Each remedy of course claimed the merit of the cure. Many of the cliildren are cut off by fever. A fine boy of Chap. XXII. A DIVINER THRASHED. 433 Captain Neves' had since my passage westward shared a similar fate. Another cliild died during the period of my visit. During his siclmess, his mother, a woman of colour, sent for a diviner in order to ascertain what ought to be done. The diviner, after tin-owing his dice, worked liimself into the state of ecstacy in which they pretend to be in communication with the Barimo. He then gave the oracular response, that the cliild was beiug Irilled by the spnit of a Portuguese trader, who once lived at Cassange. The case was tliis : — On the death of the trader, the other Portuguese merchants in the village came together, and sold the goods of the departed to each other, each man accounting for the portion received, to the creditors of the deceased at Loanda. The natives, looking on, and not understanding the natm-e of •written mercantile transactions, concluded that the merchants of Cassange had shnply stolen the dead man's goods, and that now the spirit was killing the child of Captain Neves for the part he had taken in the affair. The diviner in his response revealed the impression made on his own mind by the sale, and likewise the native ideas of departed souls. As they give the whites credit for greater stupidity than themselves m all these matters, the mother of the cliild came, and told the father that he ought to give a slave to the diviuer, as a fee to make a sacrifice to appease the spirit and save the life of the cliild. The father quietly sent for a neighbour, and, though the diidner pretended to remain in his state of ecstacy, the brisk appHcation of two sticks to liis back suddenly reduced liim to liis senses, and a most undignified flight. The mother of tliis child seemed to have no confidence in Em-opean wisdom ; and though I desired her to keep the child out of currents of wind, she preferred to follow her own custom, and even got it cupped on the cheeks. The consequence was that the clnld was soon in a dyiug state, and the father, wisliing it to be baptized, I commended its soul to the care and compas- sion of Him who said, " Of such is the kingdom of heaven." The mother at once rushed away, and commenced that doleful wail which is so affecting, as it indicates sorrow without hope. She continued it without intermission mitil the child was buried. In the evening her female companions used a small musical instru- . ment, which produced a kind of screecliing sound, as an accom- paniment of the death wail. 2 F 434 THE ORDEAL. Chap. XXII. In the construction of tliis instrument they make use of caoutchouc, which, with a variety of other gums, is found ia different parts of tliis country. The mtercourse which the natives have had with white men, does not seem to have much amehorated their condition. A great number of persons are reported to lose their lives annually in different districts of Angola, by the cruel superstitions to which they are addicted, and the Portuguese authorities either know nothing of them, or are miable to prevent their occurrence. The natives are bound to secrecy by those who administer the ordeal, wliich generally causes the death of the victim. A person, when accused of witchcraft, ^vill often travel from distant districts in order to assert her innocency and brave the test. They come to a river on the Cassange called Dua, drink the infusion of a poisonous tree, and perish unknown. A woman was accused by a brother-in-law of being the cause of liis siclmess while we were at Cassange. She offered to take the ordeal, as she had the idea that it would but prove her con- scious innocence. Captain Neves refused his consent to her going, and thus saved her life, wliich would have been sacrificed, for the poison is very virulent. When a strong stomach rejects it, the accuser reiterates his charge ; the dose is repeated, and the person dies. Hundi'eds perish thus every year m the valley of Cassange. The same superstitious ideas being prevalent through the whole of the country north of the Zambesi, seems to indicate that the people must originally have been one. All beheve that the souls of the departed still mingle among the hA^ing, and par- t>ake in some way of the food they consume. In sickness, sacrifices of fowls and goats are made to appease the spirits. It is imagined that they wish to take the Hving away fi'om earth and aU its enjoyments. ^Mien one man has killed another, a sacrifice is made, as if to lay the spmt of the victim. A sect is reported to exist, who kill men in order to take then- hearts and offer them to the Barimo. The chieftainsliip is elective from certain families. Among the Bangalas of the Cassange valley, the chief is chosen fi'om tliree families in rotation. A cliief 's brother inherits in preference to his son. The sons of a sister belong to her brother ; and he often Chap. XXII. TRADING POMBEIEOS. 435 sells his nephews to pay his debts. By this and other imnatui'al customs, more than by war, is the slave-market suppKed. The prejudices in favour of these practices are very deeply rooted in the native mind. Even at Loanda they retire out of the city m order to perform their heathenish rites mthout the cognisance of the authorities. Their rehgion, if such it may be called, is one of di-ead. Numbers of charms are employed to avert the evils with wliich they feel themselves to be encompassed. Occasionally you meet a man, more cautious or more timid than the rest, with twenty *or tliirty charms hung round his neck. He seems to act upon the prmciple of Procliis, m his prayer to all the gods and goddesses. Among so many he sm-ely must have the right one. The disrespect which Europeans pay to the objects of then- fear, is to their minds only an evidence of great folly. Wlnle here, I reproduced the last of my lost papers and maps ; and as there is a post twice a-month from Loanda, I had the happiness to receive a packet of the * Times,' and, among other news, an account of the Kussian war up to the terrible charge of the light cavaby. The intense anxiety I felt to hear more, may be imagined by every true patriot ; but I was forced to brood on in silent thought, and utter my poor prayers for friends who perchance were now no more, until I reached the other side of the continent. A considerable trade is carried on by the Cassange merchants with all the surrounding territory by means of native traders, whom they term "Pombeiros." Two of these, called in the liistory of Angola "the trading blacks" (os fenantes pretos), Pedro Joao Baptista and Antonio Jose, havmg been sent by the first Portuguese trader that lived at Cassange, actually retm-ned from some of the Portuguese possessions in the East with letters from the governor of Mozambique in the year 1815, proving, as is remarked, " the possibility of so important a communication between Mozambique and Loanda." This is the only instance of native Portuguese subjects crossing the continent. No Em-opean ever accomphshed it, though tliis fact has lately been quoted as if the men had been " Portuguese'^ Captain Neves was now actively engaged in preparing a present, worth about fifty pounds, to be sent by Pombeiros to Matiamvo. It consisted of great quantities of cotton cloth, a large carpet, an arm-chair with a canopy and curtains of crimson caHco, an iron 2 F 2 436 FEVER AFTER WESTERLY WINDS. Chap. XXIT. bedstead, mosqiiito cm-tains, beads, &c., and a number of pictm-es rudely jDainted in oil by an embryo black painter at Cassange. Matiamvo, like most of the natives in tlie interior of the country, has a strong desire to possess a cannon, and had sent ten large tusks to pmchase one ; but being government property, it could not be sold : he was now furnished ^vith a blunderbuss, mounted as a cannon, which would probably please him as well. • Senhor Gra^a and some other Portuguese have visited this chiex at different times ; but no European resides beyond the Quango ; indeed, it is contrary to the pohcy of the government of Angola, to allow their subjects to penetrate further into the interior. The present would have been a good opportunity for me to have visited that chief, and I felt strongly incHned to do so, as he had expressed dissatisfaction respecting my treatment by the Cliiboque, and even threatened to punish them. As it would be improper to force my men to go tliither, I resolved to wait and see whether the propo- sition might not emanate from themselves. When I can get the natives to agree in the propriety of any step, they go to the end of the affair without a murmur. I s^^eak to them and treat them as rational beings, and generally get on well with them in consequence. I have already remarked on the unhealthiness of Cassange ; and Captain Neves, who possesses an obser^dng turn of mind, had noticed that always when the west wind blows, much fever imme- diately follows. As long as easterly winds prevail, all enjoy good health ; but in J anuary, February, March, and April, the winds are variable, and sickness is general. The unhealthiness of the westerly \vinds probably results from malaria, apjoearing to be heavier than common air, and sweeping down into the valley of Cassange from the western plateau, somewhat in the same way as the carbonic acid gas from bean-fields is supposed by colliers to do into coalpits. In the west of Scotland, strong objections are made, by that body of men, to farmers planting beans in their ^dcinity, from the belief that they render the mines unliealthy. The gravita- tion of the malaria from the more elevated land of Tala Mungongo towards Cassange, is the only way the unhealthiness of this spot on the prevalence of the westerly winds can be accounted for. The banks of the Quango, though much more marshy, and covered with ranker vegetation, are comparatively healthy ; but thither the westerly wind does not seem to convey the noxious agent. • Chap. XXII. EXPOllTS FROM LOANDA. 437 Feb. 20th. — On the day of starting from Cassange, the westerly- wind blew strongly, and on the day following we were brought to a stand, by several of our party being laid up with fever. This complaint is the only serious drawback iVngola possesses. It is m every other respect an agreeable land, and adndrably adapted for yielding a rich abundance of tropical produce for the rest of the world. Indeed I have no hesitation in asserting, that, had it been in the possession of England, it would now have been yielding as much or more of the raw material for her manufactures, as an equal extent of territory in the cotton-gro^^ing States of America. A railway from Loanda to this valley, would secure the trade of most of the interior of South Central Africa.* * The following statistics may be of interest to mercantile men. They show that since the repression of the slave-trade in Angola the value of the exports in lawful commerce has steadily augmented. We have no returns since 1850, but the prosperity of legitimate trade . has suffered no check. The duties are noted in Portuguese money, " milreis," each of which is about three shillings in value. Return of the Quantities and Value of the Staple Articles, the produce of the Province of Angola, exported from St. Paul de Loanda between July 1, 1848, and June 30, 1849, specifying the quantities and value of those exported in Portuguese ships and in ships of other nations. ARTICLES. l| Ix Portuguese Ships. j Is Ships or other Nat loxa. Amount. Value. j Amount. Value. Palm oil . . . . „ Beeswax . . . . „ Orchella .. .. Tons 1454 1440 152 1837 147 1109 630 £. s. cl. 35,350 0 0 2,160 0 0 304 0 0 633 17 6 205 16 0 6,654 0 0 23,940 0 0 1 i 515 6,671 Iqr. i 684 1 849 J 4,763 544 1 i 1 £. s. d. 12,875 0 0 10,036 17 6 1,368 0 0 318 17 6 6,668 4 0 3,264 0 0 69,247 13 6 34,530 19 0 Total Quantity and Value of Exports from Loanda. £. s. d. Ivory Cwt. 1,969 .. .. 48,225 0 0 Palm oil „ 8,111 Iqr 12,196 17 6 Coffee „ 836 .... 1,672 0 0 Hides Ko. 2,686 .... 952 15 0 Gum Cwt. 4,910 .. .. 6,874 0 0 Beeswax „ 1,653 .... 9,918 0 0 Orchella Tons. 630 .... 23,940 0 0 £103,778 12 6 Abstract 438 REVEmJE OF LOANDA. Chap. XXII. As soon as we coiild move towards the Quango we did so, meeting in our course several trading parties, both native and Portuguese. We met two of the latter carrying a tusk weighing 126 lbs. The OTOer afterwards informed us that its fellow on the left side of the same elephant was 130 lbs. It was 8 feet 6 J inches long, and 21 inches in cu'cumference at the part on which the hp of the animal rests. The elephant was rather a Abstract View of the Net Eevenue of the Customs at St. Paul de Loanda in quinquemiial periods from 1818-19 to 1843-44, both included; and thence in each year to 1848-49. Duties on Importation. Duties on Exportation. Duties on Re-exportation. Duties on Slaves. Tonnage dues, Store rents, and other in- cidental receipts. Mil. reia. Mil. reis. Mil. reis. Mil. reis. Mil. reis. 1818-19 573 876 137,320 800 148,608 661 1823-24 3,490 752 460 420 120,843 000 133,446 892 1828-29 4,700 684 800 280 125,330 000 139,981 364 1833-34 7,490 000 1,590 000 139,280 000 158,978 640 1838-39 25,800 590 2,720 000 135,470 320 173,710 910 1843-44 53,240 000 4,320 000 72,195 230 138,255 230 1844-45 99,380 264 6,995 095 17,676 000 134,941 359 1845-46 150,233 789 9,610 735 6,116 500 181,423 550 1846-47 122,501 186 8,605 821 549 000 114,599 235 1847-48 119,246 826 9,718 676 4,097* 868 1,231 200 146,321 476 1848-49 131,105 453 9,969 960 2,164 309 1,183 500 157,152 400 718,763 = £102, 420 680 54,790 = £7,8 987 27 756,195 550 = £108,028 Ket Revenue of Customs. Revenue from other sources. Total Net Revenue. Total Amount of Charges. , 1844- 45 .. .. 1845- 46 .. .. 1846- 47 .. .. 1847- 48 .. .. 1848- 49 .. .. £. s. d. 26.988 5 5 36,284 14 2 28,919 16 11 29,264 5 10 31,430 9 7 £. s. d. 9,701 10 8 24,580 4 10 23,327 9 11 24,490 11 8 18,868 3 10 £. s. d. 36,689 16 1 60,864 19 0 52,247 6 10 53,754 17 6 51,298 13 5 £. s. d. 53,542 5 4 56,695 9 7 52,180 9 7 53,440 8 8 50,686 3 3 The above account exhibits the total revenue and charges of the government of St. Paul de Loanda in each year, from 1844-45 to 1848-49, both included. The above three tables are copied from the appendix to a despatch sent by Mr. Gabriel to Viscount Palmerston, dated 5th August, 1850, and, among other facts of interest, show a very satisfactory diminution in the duties upon slaves. The returns from 1818 to 1844 have been obtained from different sources as the average revenue; those from 1844 to 1849 arc from the Custom-house records. Chai'. XXII. MORE FEYEE. 439 small one, as is common in this hot central region. Some idea may be formed of the strength of his neck, when it is recollected that he bore a weight of 256 lbs. The ivory which comes from the east and north-east of Cassange, is very much larger than any to be fomid fiu'ther south. Captain Neves had one weigiiing 120 lbs. ; and this weight is by no means uncommon. They have been found weigliuig even 158 lbs. Before reaching the Quango we were again brought to a stand by fever in two of my companions, close to the residence of a Portuguese who rejoiced in the name of William Tell, and who lived here, in spite of the proliibition of the government. We were using the water of a pond, and this gentleman having come to invite me to dinner, drank a little of it, and caught fever in consequence. If malarious matter existed in water, it would have been a wonder had we escaped ; for, travelling in the sun, with the thermometer from 96° to 98° in the shade, the evaporation from om- bodies causing much tliirst, we generally partook of every water we came to. We had probably thus more disease than others might suffer who had better shelter. Mr. Tell remarked that his garden was rather barren, being still, as he said, wild ; but when more worked it would become better, though no manure be aj)pHed. My men were busy col- lecting a better breed of fowls and j)igeoiis than those in theii* o^vn. country. Mr. Tell presented them with some large speci- mens from Kio J aneiro. Of these they were wonderfully proud, and bore the cock in trimnph through the country of the Ba- londa, as evidence of liavmg been to the sea. But when at the \dllage of Shinte, a hyaena came into om- midst when we T^'ere all sound asleep, and picked out the giant in liis basket from eighty-fom- others, and he was lost, to the great gi'ief of my men. The anxiety these people have always showTi to improve the breed of their domestic animals, is, I think, a favourable point in their character. On looking at the common breeds in the possession of the Portuguese, which are merely native cattle, and seeing them slaughter both heifer-calves and cows, wliich they themselves never do, and Hkewise making no use of the milk, they concluded that the Portuguese must be an inferior race of wliite men. They never ceased remarking on the fine ground for gardens over wliicli we were passing ; and when I happened to 440 SUPERSTITIOUS FEARS. Chap. XXll. mention that most of the flom- which the Portuguese consumed, came from another country, they exclaimed, " Are they ignorant of tillage ?" " They know nothing but buying and seUing : they are not men !" I hope it may reach the eai's of my Angolese friends, and that they may be stirred up to develop the resources of then- fine country. On commg back to Cj'j^riano's village on the 28th, we found that his step-father had died after we had passed, and, accord- ing to the custom of the country, he had spent more than his patrimony in funeral orgies. He acted with his wonted kind- ness, though, unfortunately, drinking has got liim so deeply into debt, that he now keeps out of the way of his creditors. He informed us that the source of the Quango is eight days, or one huncked miles, to the south of tliis, and m a range called Mo- samba, in the coimtry of the Basongo. \Ye can see from tliis, a sort of break m the high land which stretches away round to Tala Mongongo, through wliicli the river comes. A death had occurred in a village about a mile off, and the people were busy beating drums and firing guns. The funeral rites are half festive, half mourning, partaking somewhat of the character of an Irish wake. There is notliing more heartrending than then- death wails. When the natives turn their eyes to the futm-e world, they have a view cheerless enough of their own utter helplessness and hopelessness. They fancy themselves com- pletely in the power of the disembodied spirits, and look upon the prospect of following them, as the greatest of misfortunes. Hence they are constantly deprecating the wrath of departed souls, behoving that, if they are appeased, there is no other cause of death but witchcraft, wliich may be averted by charms. The whole of the coloured population of Angola are sunk in theso gTOss superstitions, but have the opinion, notwithstanding, that they are wiser in these matters than their white neighbours. Each tribe has a consciousness of following its own best interests in the best way. They are by no means destitute of that self- esteem which is so common in other nations ; yet tliey fear all manner of phantoms, and have half-developed ideas and traditions of something or other, they know not what. The pleasures of animal life are ever present to their minds as the supreme good ; and, but for the innumerable invisibiHties, they might enjoy their Chap. IvXII. CROSSING THE QUANGO 441 luxurious climate as much as it is possible for man to do. I have often thought, in travelling tlirough then- land, that it presents pictures of beauty which angels might enjoy. How often have I beheld, in still mornings, scenes the very essence of beauty, and all bathed in a quiet air of deHcious warmth ! yet the occasional soft motion imparted a pleasing sensation of coolness as of a fan. Green grassy meadows, the cattle feeding, the goats browsing, the kids skipping, the groups of herdboys vdth. miniature bows, arrows, and spears ; the women wending their way to the river with watering-pots poised jauntily on their heads ; men sewing imder the shady banians ; and old grey-headed fathers sitting on the ground, mth staff in hand, listening to the morning gossip, while others carry trees or branches to repair their hedges ; and an this, flooded with the bright African sunshine, and the birds singing among the branches before the heat of the day has become intense, form pictures which can never be forgotten. We were informed that a cliief named Gando, li^iLng on the other side of the river, having been accused of witchcraft, was killed by the ordeal, and his body tlirown into the Quango. The ferrymen demanded thu-ty yards of caHco, but received six thankfully. The canoes were -svTetched, carrying only two persons at a time ; but my men being well acquainted with the water, we aU got over m about two hours and a half. They excited the admiration of the inliabitants by the maimer m which they managed the cattle and donkeys in crossing. Tlie most stubborn of beasts foimd liimself powerless in their hands. Five or six, seizmg hold on one, bundled him at once into the stream, and, in this predicament, he always thought it best poHcy to give in and swim. The men sometimes swam along mth the cattle, and forced them to go on by dashing water at their heads. The difference between my men and those of the native traders who accompanied us, was never more apparent than now ; for wliile my men felt an interest m everytliing we possessed m common, theirs were rather glad when the oxen refused to cross, for, being obKged to slaughter them on such occasions, the loss to their masters was a welcome feast to themselves. On the eastern side of the Quango we passed on, without visiting our friend of the conical head-dress, to the residence of some Ambakistas who had crossed the river in order to secure the first 442 AMBAKISTAS — BASHINJE. Chap. XXII. cliances of trade iii wax. I liave before remarked on the Imow- ledge of reading and wilting that these Anibakistas possess ; they are famed for then- love of all sorts of learning within theii' reacli, a Imowledge of the history of Portugal, Portuguese law, &c. &c. They are remarkably keen in trade, and are sometimes called the Jews of Angola. They are employed as clerks and witers, their feminine delicacy of constitution enabling them to wite a fine lady's hand, a Idnd of witing much esteemed amongst the Portu- guese. They are not physically equal to the Em-opean Portuguese, but possess considerable ability ; and it is said that half-castes, in the course of a few generations, return to the black colom- of the maternal ancestor. The black population of Angola has become much deteriorated. They are not so strongly formed as the inde- pendent tribes. A large quantity of agiiardente, an inferior kind of spnit, is imported mto the country, wliich is most mjm*ious ui its effects. We saw many parties carrying casks of this banefal liquor to the independent chiefs beyond ; and were informed that it is difficult for any trader to convey it far, carriers being in the habit of helping themselves by means of a straw, and then inject- ing an equal amount of water, when near the point of delivery. To prevent this, it is common to see large demijohns "with padlocks on the corks. These are frequently stolen. In fact, the carriers are much addicted to both lying and thieving, as might be ex- pected from the lowest class of a people, on whom the debasing slave system has acted for two centuries. The Basliinje, in whose country we now are, seem to possess more of the low negTO character and physiognomy, than either the Balonda or Basongo ; their colour is generally dirty black, foreheads low and compressed, noses flat and much expanded laterally, though tliis is partly o^ving to the alae spreading over the cheeks, by the custom of inserting bits of sticks or reeds in the septum ; their teeth are deformed by being filed to points ; their lips are large. They make a nearer approach to a general negi'o appearance than any tribes I met ; but I did not notice this on my way down. They cultivate pretty largely, and rely upon their agricultm-al products for their supplies of salt, flesh, tobacco, &c., from Bangalas. Their clothing consists of pieces of skui, hung loosely from the girdle in front and beliind. They plait their hair fantastically. We saw some women coming mth Chap. XXII. SANSAWE'S IDEA OF DIGNITY. 443 tlieii- hair woven into the form of a European hat, and it was only by a closer inspection that its natiu'e was detected. Others had it arranged in tufts, with a threefold cord along the ridge of each tuft ; while others, again, follow tlie ancient Eg}^itian fasliion, having the whole mass of wool plaited into cords, all hanging down as far as the shoulders. This mode, with tlie somewhat Egyptian cast of coimtenance in other parts of Londa, reminded me strongly of the paintings of that nation in the British Museum. AVe had now rain. every day, and the sky seldom presented that cloudless aspect and clear blue, so common in the dry lands of the south. The heavens are often overcast by large wliite motionless masses, wliicli stand for hom-s in the same position, and the intervening sj)aces are filled vdth a milk-and-water-looking haze. Notwithstanduig these unfavoiu-able circumstances, I ob- tained good observations for the longitude of tliis important point on both sides of the Quango, and found the river running in 9^ 50' S. lat., 18° 33' E. long. On proceeding to our former station near Sansawe's "sdllage, he ran to meet us with wonderful urbanity, asking if we had seen Moene Put, king of the wliite men (or Portuguese) ; and added, on parting, that he would come to receive his dues in the evening. I rephed that, as he had treated us so scur\dly, even forbidding his people to sell us any food, if he did not bring a fowl and some eggs, as part of his duty as a chief, he shoidd receive no present from me. AYhen he came, it was in the usual Londa way of showing the exalted position he occupies, moimted on the shoulders of his spokesman, as schoolboys sometimes do in England, and as was represented to have been the case in the southern islands when Captain Cook visited them. My companions, amused at his idea of dignity, gTeeted him with a hearty laugh. He visited the native traders first, and then came to me ^^itll two cocks as a present. I spoke to him about the impolicy of the treatment we had received at his hands, and quoted the example of the Bangalas, who had been conquered by the Portuguese, for their extortionate demands of payment for firewood, grass, water, &c. ; and concluded by denying liis right to any payment for simply passing tlirough uncultivated land. To aU this he agreed ; and then I gave liim, as a token of friendship, a pannildn of coarse powder, two iron spoons, and two yards of coarse printed cahco. He looked rather 444 LONG DETENTION. Chap. XXII. saucily at these articles, for he had just received a barrel con- taining 18 lbs. of powder, 24 yards of caHco, and two bottles of brandy, from Senhor Pascoal the Pombeiro. Other presents were added the next day, but we gave nothing more ; and the Pombeiros informed me that it was necessary to give largely, because they are accompanied by slaves and carriers who are no great friends to their masters ; and if they did not secure the friendship of these petty chiefs, many slaves and their loads might be stolen while passing tlnrough the forests. It is thus a sort of black-mail that these insignificant chiefs levy ; and the native traders, in paying, do so simply as a bribe to keep them honest. This chief was a man of no power ; but in our former ignorance of this, he plagued us a whole day in passing. Finding the progi'ess of Senhor Pascoal and the other Pom- beiros excessively slow, I resolved to forego his comjDany to Cabango, after I had delivered to him some letters to be sent back to Cassange. I went forward with the intention of finishing my writing, and leaving a packet for liim at some village. We ascended the eastern acclivity that bounds the Cassange valley, which has rather a gradual ascent up from the Quango, and we found that the last ascent, though apparently not quite so high as that at Tala Mungongo, is actually much liigher. The top is about 5000 feet above the level of the sea, and the bottom 3500 feet ; water boiling on the heights at 202°, the thermometer in the air showing 96° ; and at the bottom at 205°, the air being 75°. We had now gained the summit of the western subtending ridge, and began to descend towards the centre of the country, hoping soon to get out of the Cliiboque territory, wliich, when we ascended from the Cassange valley, we had entered, but on the 19tli of April the mtermittent, which had begun on the 16th of March, was changed into an extremely severe attack of rheumatic fever. Tliis was brought on by being obhged to sleep on an ex- tensive plain covered with water. The rain poured down ince^s- santly, but we formed our beds by dragging up the earth into oblong mounds, somewhat like graves in a country churchyard, and then placing grass upon them. The rain continuing to deluge us, we were unable to leave for two days, but as soon as it became fair we continued our march. The heavy dew upon the high gTass was so cold, as to cause shivering, and I was forced to lie by Chap. XXII. A BLOW ON THE BEARD. 445 for eight days, tossing and groaning with \'iolent pain in the head. This was the most severe attack I had endured. It made me quite unfit to move, or even know what was passing outside my Httle tent. Senhor Pascoal, who had been detained by the severe rain at a better spot, at last came up, and, knowing that leeches abounded in the rivulets, procured a number, and appHed some dozens to the nape of the neck and the loins. This partially reHeved the pain. He was then obliged to move forward, in order to purchase food for liis large party. After many days I began to recover, and A^-ished to move oli, but my men objected to the attempt on account of my weakness. AVhen Senlior Pascoal had been some time at the village in front, as he had received instructions from his employer Captain Neves to aid me as much as possible, and being himself a kindly-disposed person, he sent back two mes- sengers to invite me to come on, if practicable. It happened that the head-man of the tillage where I had lain twenty-two days, while bargaining and quarrelling in my camp for a piece of meat, had been struck on the mouth by one of my men. My principal men paid five pieces of cloth and a gun as an atonement ; but the more they pelded, the more exorbitant he became, and he sent word to aU the surrounding tillages to aid him in avenging the affront of a blow on the beard. As their courage usually rises vdth. success, I resolved to peld no more, and departed. In passing tlirough a forest in the country beyond, we were startled by a body of men rushing after us. They began by knocking dovm the biu*dens of the liindermost of my men, and several shots were fired, each party spreading out on both sides of the path. I fortunately had a six-barreUed revolver, which my friend Captain Henry Need, of her Majesty's brig " Linnet," had considerately sent to Golungo Alto after my departure fr'om Lo- anda. Taking this in my hand, and forgetting fever, I staggered quickly along the path with two or tln-ee of my men, and fortu- nately encountered the chief. The sight of the six barrels gaping into liis stomach, vdth. my o^^ti ghastly visage looking daggers at liis face, seemed to produce an instant revolution in his martial feehngs, for he cried out, " Oh ! I have only come to speak to you, and wish peace only." Mashauana had hold of him by the hand, and found him shaking. We examined his gun, and found that it had been discharged. Both parties crowded up to their 446 SKIEMISH IN A FOREST. Chap. XXK. cliiefs. One of the opposite party coming too near, one of mine drove Mm back with a battle-axe. The enemy protested then- amicable intentions, and my men asserted the fact of having the goods knocked doAvn as evidence of the contrary. Without waiting long, I requested all to sit down, and Pitsane, placing his hand upon the revolver, somewhat allayed theu- fears. I then said to the chief, " If you have come vdtli peaceable intentions, we have no other ; go away home to your village." He rephed, " I am afraid lest you shoot me in the back." I rejomed, " If I wanted to kill you, I could shoot you m the face as weU." Mosantu called out to me, " That's only a Makalaka trick ; don't give him your back." But I said, "TeU liim to observe that I am not afi-aid of him ;" and, tm-ning, mounted my ox. There was not much danger m the fire that was oj^ened at fii'st, there being so many trees. The enemy probably expected that the sudden attack would make us forsake om* goods, and allow them to plunder with ease. The villagers were no doubt pleased with being allowed to retire unscathed, and we were also glad to get away without ha\Tng shed a drop of blood, or having compro- mised om'selves for any futm-e visit. My men were dehghted with their own bravery, and made the woods ring with teUing each other how brilliant then* conduct before the enemy" would have been, had hostihties not been brought to a sudden close. I do not mention tliis Httle sldrmish as a very frightful affair. The negTO character in these parts, and in xlngola, is essentially cowardly, except when influenced by success. A partial triumph over any body of men would induce the whole country to rise in arms, and this is the chief danger to be feared. These petty chiefs have individually but Httle power, and mth my men, now armed with guns, I could have easily beaten them off smgly ; but, bemg of the same family, they would readily unite in vast numbers, if incited by jDrospects of successful plimder. They are by no means equal to the Cape Caffres in any respect whatever. In the evening we came to Moena Iiikanje, and found him a sensible man. He is the last of the Cliiboque chiefs in this dh-ection, and is in aUiance with Matiamvo, whose territory com- mences a short distance beyond. His village is placed on the east bank of the Quilo, which is here twenty yards wide, and breast deep. Chap. XXII. MODE OF ADDEESSlNa SLAVES. 447 Tlie country was generally covered mtli forest, and we slept every niglit at some village. I was so weak, and had become so deaf from the effects of the fever, that I was glad to avail myself of the company of Senhor Pascoal and the other native traders. Oiu' rate of travelling was only two geograpliical miles per hour, and the average number of hours tliree and a half per day, or seven miles. Two-thirds of the month was spent in stopj^ages, there being only ten traveUing days in each month. The stop- pages were caused by sickness, and the necessity of remaining in different parts to purchase food; and also because, when one carrier was sick, the rest refused to carry his load. One of the Pombeiros had eight good-looking women in a chain, whom he was taking to the country of Matiamvo to sell for ivory. They always looked ashamed when I happened to come near them, and must have felt keenly theu* forlorn and degraded position. I believe they were captives taken from the rebel Cassanges. The way in whicli slaves are spoken of in Angola and eastern Africa, must soimd strangely even to the owners, when they fii'st come from Europe. In Angola the common appellation is " o diabo," or " brutu ;" and it is quite usual to hear gentlemen call out " 0 diabo ! bring fire." In eastern Africa, on the con- trary, they apply the term " bicho " (an animal), and you hear the plu-ase, " CaU the animal to do this or that." In fact, slave- owners come to regard then- slaves as not human, and will cm-se them as the " race of a dog." Most of the carriers of my travel- ling companions were lured Basongo, and required coustant vigi- lance to prevent them steaKng the goods they carried. Salt, which is one of the cliief articles conveyed into the coimtry, became considerably hghter as we went along, but the carriers shielded themselves, by sapng that it had been melted by the rain. Then- biudens were taken from them every evening, and placed m secm-ity under the guardiansliip of Senhor Pascoal's own slaves. It was pitiable to observe the worrymg life he led. There was the greatest contrast possible between the conduct of liis people, and that of my faithful Makololo. We crossed the Loange, a deep but narrow stream, by a bridge. It becomes much larger, and contains hippopotami, lower do^vn. It is the boundary of Londa on the west. We slept also on the banks of the Pezo, now flooded, and could not but admhe their 448 FEEDEKS OF THE CONGO. Chap. XXII. capabilities for easy irrigation. On reacliing tlie river Chikapa (lat. 10° 10' S., long. 19° 42' E.), the 25tli of March, we found it fifty or sixty yards wide, and flowing E.N.E. into the Kasai The adjacent country is of the same level nature as that part of Londa formerly described ; but, haiTing come fui'ther to the east- ward than oiu- pre\dous course, we found that all the rivers had worn for themselves much deeper vaUeys than at the points we had formerly crossed them. Surrounded on aU sides by large gloomy forests, the people of these parts have a much more indistinct idea of the geography of then- country, than those who live in hilly regions. It was only after long and patient inqiui-y, that I became fully persuaded that the Quilo runs into the Chil?:apa. As we now crossed them both considerably further down, and were greatly to the eastward of our first route, there can be no doubt that these rivers take the same course as the others, mto the Kasai, and that I had been led into a mistake in sajTug that any of them flowed to the westward. Indeed it was only at tliis time, that I began to perceive that all the western feeders of the Kasai, except the Quango, flow first from the western side towards the centre of the country, then gTaduaUy turn, with the Kasai itself, to the north ; and, after the confluence of the Kasai mth the Quango, an immense body of water, collected from aU these branches, finds its way out of the country by means of the river Congo or Zaire on the west coast. The people H\Tiig along the path we are now foUowTDg were quite accustomed to the -visits of native traders, and did not feel in any way bound to make presents of food, except for the purpose of cheating : thus, a man gave me a fowl and some meal, and, after a short time, returned. I offered liim a handsome present of beads ; but these he declined, and demanded a cloth instead, which was far more than the value of liis gift. They did tlie same with my men, until we had to refuse presents altogether. Others made high demands because I slejot in a " house of cloth," and must be rich. They seemed to tliink that they had a perfect right to payment, for simply passing tlirough the country. Beyond the Chikapa, we crossed the Kamaue, a small deep stream, proceeduig from the S.S.W., and flowuig into the Chil^apa. On the 30th of April we reached the Loajima, where we had to form a bridge to effect our passage. This was not so difficult Chap. XXII. MODES OF DRESSmG THE HAIE. 449 an operation as some might imagine ; for a tree was growing in a horizontal position across part of the stream, and, there being no want of the tough climbing plants which admit of being knitted Hke ropes, Senlior P. soon constructed a bridge. The Loajima was here about twenty-five yards wide, but very much deeper than where I had crossed before on the shoulders of Mashauana. The last rain of this season had fallen on the 28th, and had sud- denly been followed by a gi*eat decrease of the temperature. The people in these parts seemed more slender in form, and then- colour a Kghter oKve, than any we had liitherto met. The mode of dressmg the great masses of woolly hau-, which lay upon then- No. 1. A Loiida lady's mode of wearing the hair. shoulders, together mih their general featm-es, agam reminded me of the ancient Egyptians. Several were seen with the upward incHnation of the outer angles of the eyes, but this was not general. A few of the ladies adopt a cm-ious custom of attachuig the hau- to a hoop which encircles tlie head, giving it somewhat the appearance of the glory romid the head of the Yu-gin (wood- cut No. 1). Some have a small hoop behind that represented in the woodcut. Others wear an ornament of woven hair and hide adorned with beads. The hair of the tails of buffaloes, which are to be found further east, is sometimes added. This is 2 G 450 MODES OF DRESSING THE HAIR. Chap. XXIT. represented in No. 2. Wiile others, as in No. 3, weave their own hair on pieces of liide into the form of buffalo-horns, or. No. 2. as in No. 4, make a single horn in front. The features given are frequently met with, but they are by no means universal. Many tattoo their bodies by inserting some black substance Chap. XXIT. MODES OF DRESSING THE HAIB. 451 beneath the skin, wliich leaves an elevated cicatrix about half an inch long: these are made in the form of stars, and other figures, of no particular beauty. No, 4. A young man's fashion. 2 G 2 452 PECULIARITIES OF NATIVES. Chap. XXIII. CHAPTER XXIII. Make a detour southward — Peculiarities of the inliabitants — Scarcity of animals — Forests — Geological structure of the country — Abundance and cheapness of food near the Chihombo — A slave lost — The Makololo opinion of slave-holders — Funeral obsequies in Cabango — Send a sketch of the country to Mr. Gabriel — Native information respecting the Kasai and Quango — Tlie trade with Luba — Drainage of Londa — Report of Matiamvo's country and government — Senhor Faria's present to a chief — The Balonda mode of spending time — Faithless guide — Makololo lament the ignorance of the Balonda — Eagerness of the villagers for trade — Civility of a feijiale chief — The Chief Bango and his people — Refuse to eat beef — Ambition of Africans to have a village — Winters in the interior — Spring at Kolobeng — White ants: "Never could desire to eat anything better" — Young herbage and animals — Valley of the Loembwe — The white man a hobgoblin — Specimen of quarrelling — Eager desire for calico — Want of clothing at Kawawa's — Funeral observances — Agreeable intercourse with Kawawa, — His impudent demand — Unpleasant parting — Kawawa tries to prevent our crossing the river Kasai — Stratagem. We made a little detour to tlie southward, in order to get pro- visions m a cheaper market. This led us along the rivulet caUed Tamba, where we found the people, who had not been visited so frequently by the slave-traders as the rest, rather timid and very civil. It was agi-eeable to get again among the uncontaminated, and to see the natives look at us without that air of supercilious- ness, which is so unpleasant and common in the beaten track. The same oHve colour prevailed. They file their teeth to a point, which makes the smile of the women frightful, as it reminds one of the gi'in of an alligator. The uihabitants throughout this country, exhibit as great a variety of taste, as appears on the surface of society amongst ourselves. Many of the men are dandies ; then- shoulders are always wet mtli the oil dropping fr'om their lubricated hair, and everjiilnng about them is orna- mented in one way or another. Some thi'um a musical instrument the livelong day, and, when tliey wake at night, proceed at once to their musical performance. Many of these musicians are too poor to have iron keys to their instrument, but make them of Chap. XXUI. SCARCITY OF ANBIALS — FORESTS. 453 bamboo, and persevere, though no one hears the music but them- selves. Others try to appear Avarlike by never going out of their huts, except with a load of bo^'s and arrows, or a gun ornamented with a strip of liide for every animal they have shot ; and others never go anywhere ^nthout a canary in a cage. Laches may be seen carefidly tending Httle lapdogs, which are intended to be eaten. Their ^-illages are generally in forests, and composed of groups of irregailarly planted brown huts, with banana and cotton trees, and tobacco gro^ving around. There is also at every hut a high stage erected for drjong manioc roots and meal, and elevated cages to hold domestic fowls. Eound baskets are laid on the thatch of the huts, for the hens to lay in, and on the arrival of strangers, men, women, and children ply their calling as hucksters, mtli a great deal of noisy haggling ; all their transactions are conducted Anth civil banter and good temper. My men, having the meat of the oxen wliich we slaughtered from time to time for sale, were entreated to exchanoe it for meal ; no matter how small the pieces offered were, it gave them pleasure to deal. The landscape around is green, with a tint of yellow, the gi-ass long, the paths about a foot ^^^de, and generally worn deeply in the middle. The tall overhanging gTass, when brushed against by the feet and legs, distm-bed the hzards and mice, and occasion- ally a serpent, causing a rustling amongst the heritage. There are not many birds ; every animal is entrapped and eaten. Gins are seen on both sides of the path every ten or fifteen yards, for miles together. The time and labom- required to dig up moles and mice from their burrows, would, if apphed to cultivation, afford food for any amount of fowls or swine, but the latter are seldom met \dth. We passed on through forests aboimding in climbing-plants, many of Avliich are so extremely tough, that a man is reqim-ed to go in front with a hatchet ; and Avhen the bm-dens of the carriers are caught, they are obhged to cut the climbers witli their teeth, for no amount of tugging tntQ make them break. The paths in all these forests are so zigzag, that a person may imagine he has travelled a distance of tlm-ty miles, which, when reckoned as the crow flies, may not be fifteen. AA^e reached the river Moamba (lat. 9^ 38' S., long. 20'' 13' 34" 454 GEOLOGICAL STRUCTUEE. CuAP. XXOL E.) on the 7tli May. Tliis is a stream of tliirty yards wide, and, like the Qiiilo, Loange, Clukapa, and Loajima, contains both alli- gators and hippopotami. We crossed it by means of canoes. Here, as on the slopes down to the Quilo and Chikapa, we had an opportimity of vieA^dng the geological structm-e of the country, — a capping of ferrugmous conglomerate, wliich in many parts looks as if it had been melted, for the rounded nodules resemble masses of slag, and they have a smooth scale on the sm-face ; but in all probability it is an aqueous deposit, for it contains water-worn pebbles of all sorts, and generally small. Below tliis mass, lies a pale-red hardened sandstone, and beneath that, a trap-like whin- stone. Lowest of all lies a coarse-grained sandstone containing a few pebbles, and in connection with it, a white calcareous rock is occasionally met with, and so are banlvs of loose round quartz pebbles. The slopes are longer from the level country above, the fui'ther we go eastward, and everywhere we meet with circumscribed bogs on them, surrounded by clumps of straight, lofty, evergreen trees, which look extremely graceful on a ground of yello'syish grass. Several of these bogs pom- forth a solution of iron, which exhibits on its surface the prismatic colom-s. The level plateaus between the rivers, both east and west of the Moamba, across which we travelled, were less woody than the river glens. The trees on them are scraggy and mde apart. There are also large open gi-ass-covered spaces, with scarcely even a bush. On these rather dreary intervals between the rivers, it was impossible not to be painfully struck with the absence of all animal life. Not a bird was to be seen, except occasionally a tomtit, some of the Sylviadce and Drymoica^ also a black bird {Dicrurus I/udwigii, Smith), common throughout the coimtry. We were gladdened by the voice of birds only near the rivers, and there they are neither numerous nor varied. The Senegal longclaw, however, maintains its place, and is the largest bird seen. We saw a butcher-bird in a trap as we passed. There are remarkably few small animals, they having been himted almost to extermination, and few insects except ants, wliich abound in considerable number and variety. There are scarcely any common flies to be seen, nor are we ever troubled by mosquitoes. The air is still, hot, and oppressive ; the intensely bright sun- hght glances peacefully on the evergreen forest leaves, and all Chap. XXIH. CHEAPNESS OF FOOD. 455 feel glad wlien the path comes into the shade. The want of life in the scenery made me long to tread again the banks of the Zambesi, and see the graceful antelopes feeding beside the dark buffaloes and sleek elands. Here hippopotami are known to exist only by their footprints on the banks. Not one is ever seen to blow or put his head up at all ; they have learned to breathe in silence, and keep out of sight. We never heard one uttering the snorting sound so common on the Zambesi. We crossed two small streams, the Kanesi and Fombeji, before reacliing Cabango, a village situated on the banks of the Chi- hombo. The country was becoming more densely peopled as we proceeded, but it bears no population compared to what it might easily sustain. Provisions were to be had in great abundance ; a fowl and basket of meal weighing 20 lbs. were sold for a yard and a half of very inferior cotton-cloth, worth not more than three pence. An idea of the cheapness of food may be formed from the fact, that Captam Neves pm-chased 380 lbs. of tobacco from the Bangalas, for about two pounds sterHng. This, when carried into central Londa, might purchase seven thousand five hundred fowls, or feed with meal and fowls seven thousand persons for one day, giving each a fowl and 5 lbs. of meal. When food is pur- chased here with either salt or coarse calico, four persons can be well fed with animal and vegetable food at the rate of one penny a day. The chief vegetable food is the manioc and lotsa meal. These contam a very large proportion of starch, and when eaten alone for any length of time, produce most distres-^ing heartburn. As we ourselves experienced in coming north, they also cause a weakness of vision, which occurs in the case of animals fed on pure gluten or amyllaceous matter only. I now discovered that when these starchy substances are eaten along with a proportion of ground-nuts, which contain a considerable quantity of oil, no injurious effects follow. While on the way to Cabango, we saw fresh tracks of elands, the first we had observed in this country. A poor httle slave- girl, being ill, turned aside in the path, and, though we waited aU the next day making search for her, she was lost. She was tall and slender for her age, as if of too quick growth, and pro- bably, unable to bear the fatigue of the march, lay down and slept in the forest, then, waldng in the dark, went farther and farther 456 FUNERAL OBSEQUIES. Chap. XXHI. astray. Tlie treatment of the slaves witnessed by my men, cer- tainly did not raise slaveholders in theii* estunation. Then- usual exclamation was, " Ga ba na pelu " (They have no heart) ; and they added, with reference to the slaves, "Why do they let them ?" as if they thought that the slaves had the natural right to rid the world of such heartless creatures, and ought to do it. The uneasmess of the trader was continually showing itself, and, upon the whole, he had reason to be on the aleii both day and night. The carriers perpetually stole the goods intrusted to their care, and he could not openly accuse them, lest they should plunder him of all, and leave liim quite m the lurch. He could only hope to manage them after getting all the remaining goods safely into a house m Cabango ; he might then deduct something fi'om then* pay, for what they had pmiomed on the way. Cabango (lat. 9° 31' S., long. 20° 31' or 32' E.) is the dwelling- place of Muanzanza, one of Matiamvo's subordinate cliiefs. His village consists of about two hmidi-ed huts, and ten or twelve square houses, constructed of poles mth grass interwoven. The latter are occupied by half-caste Portuguese from Ambaca, agents for the Cassange traders. The cold m the mornings was now severe to the feelings, the thermometer ranging from 58° to 60°, though, when protected, sometimes standing as liigh as 64° at six A.M. When the sun is weU up, the thermometer in the shade rises to 80°, and in the evenings it is about 78°. A person having died in tliis village, we could transact no business mth the chief, until the funeral obsequies were finished. These occupy about fom- days, dm-mg which there is a constant succession of dancing, wailing, and feasting. Guns are fired by day, and drums beaten by night, and all the relatives, dressed in fantastic caps, keej) up the ceremonies mth spnit proj^ortionate to the amount of beer and beef exj)ended. When there is a large expenditm-e, the remark is often made afterwards, " What a fine funeral that was ! " A figure, consisting chiefly of feathers and beads, is paraded on these occasions, and seems to be regarded as an idol. Having met mth an accident to one of my eyes, by a blow from a branch in passmg through a forest, I remained some days here, endeavouring, though mth much pain, to draw a sketch of the country thus far, to be sent back to Mr. Gabriel at Loanda. Chap. XXllI. THE I^SAI AND QUANGO. 457 I was always anxious to transmit an account of my discoveries on every possible occasion, lest, anything happening in the coimtry to which I was going, they should be entirely lost. I also fondly expected a packet of letters and papers which my good angel at Loanda would be siu-e to send, if they came to hand, but I after- wards found that, though he had offered a large sum to any one who would return with an assurance of having deUvered the last packet he sent, no one followed me ^dtli it to Cabango. The unwearied attentions of this good Englishman, from his first welcome to me when,* a weary, dejected, and worn-do^m stranger, I arrived at liLs residence, and liis whole subsequent conduct, will be held in lively remembrance by me to my dying day. Several of the native traders here ha^ong \dsited the country of Luba, l}dng far to the north of this, and there being some \dsitors also from the town of Mai, wliich is situated far down the Kasai, I picked lip some information respecting those distant parts. In going to the town of IMai the traders crossed only two large rivers, the Loajima and Chihombo. The Kasai flows a little to the east of the town of Mai, and near it there is a large waterfall. They describe the Kasai as being there of very great size, and that it thence bends round to the west. On asking an old man, who was about to return to his chief Mai, to imagine himself standing at his home, and point to the confluence of the Quango and Kasai, he immediately turned, and, pointing to the westward, said, "When we travel five days (thirty-five or forty mUes) in that direction, we come to it." He stated also that the Kasai received another river, named the Lubilash. There is but one oj)inion among the Balonda respecting the Kasai and Quango. They inva- riably describe the Kasai as receiving the Quango, and, beyond the confluence, assuming the name of Zaire or Zerezere. And the Kasai, even previous to the jimction, is much larger than the Quango, from the numerous branches it receives. Besides those we have abeady crossed, there is the Chihombo at Cabango ; and, forty-two miles beyond this, eastward, runs the Kasai itself; fourteen miles beyond that the Kaunguesi ; then, forty-two miles fiui^her east, flows the Lolua ; besides numbers of Httle streams, all of which contribute to swell the Kasai. About thirty-fom- miles east of the Lolua, or a himdred and thirty-two miles E.N.E. of Cabango, stands the to^Ti of Matiamvo, 458 DKAINAGE OF LONDA. Chap. XXIH. the paramount chief of all the Balonda. The toTO of Mai is pointed out as to the N.N.W. of Cabango, and thirty-two days or two hundred and twenty-four miles distant, or about lat. S. 5° 45'. The chief town of Luba, another independent chief, is eight days farther in the same direction, or lat. S. 4° 50'. Judging from the appearance of the people who had come for the purposes of trade from Mai, those in the nortli are in quite as uncivihsed a condition as the Balonda. They are clad in a Idnd of cloth made of the inner bark of a tree. Neither guns nor native traders are admitted into the coimtry, the chief of Luba entertaining a dread of innovation. If a native trader goes thither, he must dress Hke the common people in Angola, in a loose robe resembling a kilt. The chief trades in shells and beads only. His people kill the elephants by means of spears, poisoned arrows, and traps. All assert that elephants' tusks from that country, are heavier, and of greater length, than any others. It is evident, from all the information I could collect both here and elsewhere, that the drainage of Londa falls to the north and then runs westward. The countries of Luba and Mai are evidently lower than this, and yet this is of no great altitude — probably not much more than 3500 feet above the level of the sea. Having here received pretty certain information on a point in which I felt much interest, namely, that the Kasai is not navigable from the coast, omng to the large waterfall near the town of Mai, and that no great kingdom exists in the region beyond, between tliis and the equator, I would fain have visited Matiamvo. This seemed a very desirable step, as it is good poHcy as well as right, to acknow- ledge the sovereign of a country ; and I was assured, both by Balonda and native traders, that a considerable branch of the Zambesi rises in the coimtry east of his toTO, and flows away to the south. The whole of this branch, extending down even to where it tm-ns westward to Masiko, is probably placed too far eastwards on the map. It was put dow when I believed Matiamvo and Cazembe to be fm-ther east than I have since seen reason to believe them. All, being derived from native testimony, is offered to the reader with diffidence, as needing verification by actual explorers. The people of that part, named Kanyika and Kanyoka, livhig on its banks, are represented as both numerous and friendly, but Matiamvo wiU on no account Chap. XXIH. JNIATIAMYO'S COUNTRY AND GOVERNMENT. 459 permit any Avhite person to visit them, as his principal supplies of ivory are drawn from them. Thinking that ^ye might descend tliis branch of the Zambesi to Masiko, and thence to the Barotse, I felt a strong inclination to make the attempt. The goods, however, we had brought mth us to pay our way, had, by the long detention from fever and weakness in both myself and men, dwindled to a mere fragment; and, being but shghtly acquainted with the Balonda dialect, I felt that I could neither use persuasion nor presents to effect my object. From all I could hear of Matiamvo, there was no chance of my being allowed to proceed tlirough his country to the southward. If I had gone merely to visit him, all the goods would have been expended by the time I returned to Cabango; and we had not found mendicity so pleasant on our way to the north, as to induce us to desire to return to it. The country of Matiamvo is said to be well peopled, but they have Httle or no trade. They receive calico, salt, gunpowder, coarse earthenware, and beads, and give in return ivory and slaves. They possess no cattle, Matiamvo alone ha^g a single herd, wliich he keeps entirely for the sake of the flesh. The present chief is said to be mild in liis government, and ^vill depose an under-cliief for unjust conduct. He occasionally sends the distance of a himdred miles or more, to behead an offending ofiicer. But though I was informed by the Portuguese that he possesses absolute power, his name had less influence over his subjects with whom I came in contact, than that of Sekeletu has, over liis people livmg at a much greater distance from the capital. As we thouglit it best to strike away to the S.E. from Cabango to our old friend Katema, I asked a guide from Muanzanza as soon as the funeral proceedings were over. He agreed to furnish one, and also accepted a smaller present from me than usual, when it was represented to him by Pascoal and Faria that I was not a trader. He seemed to regard these presents as hLs proper dues ; and as a cargo of goods had come by Senlior Pascoal, he entered the house for the purpose of receiving liis share, when Senhor Faria gravely presented him with the commonest earthen- ware vessel, of which great numbers are brought for tliis trade. The chief received it with expressions of abundant gratitude, as these vessels are higlily valued because from their depth they can liold so much food or beer. The association of ideas is some- 460 A FAITHLESS GUIDE. Chap. XXHI. times so very ludicrous, that it is" difficult to maintain one's gravity. Several of the children of the late Matiamvo came to beg from me, but never to oiFer any food. Ha^dng spoken to one young man named Liula (Heavens) about their stinginess, he soon brought bananas and manioc. I liked liis appearance and conversation ; and beheve that the Balonda would not be difficult to teach, but theu' mode of life would be a drawback. The Balonda in this quarter are much more agreeable-looldng than any of the inha- bitants nearer the coast. The women allow theii* teeth to remain in then- beautifully white state, and would be comely, but for the custom of inserting pieces of reed into the cartilage of the nose. They seem generally to be in good spirits, and spend their time in everlasting talk, funeral ceremonies, and marriages. This flow of animal sj)mts must be one reason why they are such an inde- structible race. The habitual influence on their minds of the agency of imseen spmts, may have a tendency in the same direc- tion, by preserving the mental quietude of a kind of fataHsm. We were forced to prepay our guide and his father too, and he went but one day, although he promised to go ^vith us to Katema. He was not in the least ashamed at breaking his engagements, and probably no disgi-ace will be attached to the deed by Muan- zanza. Among the Bakwains he would have been pmiished. My men would have stripped him of the wages which he wore on his person, but thought that, as we had always acted on the mildest principles, they would let liim move off with his unearned gains. They frequently lamented the want of knowledge in these people, sa}Tng in their own tongue, " Ah ! they don't know that we are men as well as they, and that we are only bearing with their insolence with patience because we are men." Then would follow a hearty cm^se, showing that the patience was nearly ex- pended ; but they seldom quarrelled in the language of the Balonda. The only one who ever lost his temper, was the man who struck a head-man of one of the tillages on the mouth, and he was the most abject individual in our company. The reason Avhy we needed a guide at all, was, to secure the convenience of a path, which, though generally no better than a sheep-walk, is much easier than going straight in one direction, through tangled forests and tropical vegetation. We knew the Chap. XXIH. CIVILITY OF A FEMALE CHIEF. 461 general direction we ouglit to follow, and also if any deviation occurred from our proper route ; but to avoid impassable forests and untreadable bogs, and to get to the proper fords of the rivers, we always tried to procm-e a guide, and he always followed the common path from one village to another when that lay in the direction we were going. After leaving, Cabango on the 21st, we crossed several little streams running into the Chihombo on our left, and in one of them I saw tree ferns ( Qyathea dregei) for the first time in Africa. The trimk was about four feet high and ten inches in diameter. We saw also grass trees of two varieties, which in damp locaKties had attained a height of forty feet. On crossing the Chiliombo, which we did about twelve miles above Cabango, we found it waist-deep and rapid. We were dehghted to see the evidences of buffalo and hippopotami on its banks. As soon as we got away from the track of the slave-traders, the more kindly spirit of the southern Balonda appeared, for an old man brought a large present of food from one of the villages, and volunteered to go as guide himself. The people, however, of the numerous villages which we passed, always made efforts to detain us, that they might have a little trade in the way of furnishing om- suppers. At one village, indeed, they would not show us the path at aU, unless we remained at least a day with them. Having refused, we took a path in the direction we ought to go, but it led us into an inextricable thicket. Keturning to the village again, we tried another footpath in a similar direction ; but this led us into an equally unpassable and trackless forest. We were thus forced to come back and remain. In the following morning they put us in the proper path, wliicli in a few hours led us thi'ough a forest, that would otherwise have taken us days to penetrate. Beyond this forest we found the village of Nyakalonga, a sister of the late Matiamvo, who treated us handsomely. She wished her people to g-uide us to the next village, but this they declined unless we engaged in trade. She then requested us to wait an hour or two till she could get ready a present of meal, manioc- roots, ground-nuts, and a fowl. It was truly pleasant to meet with people possessing some civility, after the hauteur we had experienced on the slave-path. She sent her son to the next village without requiring payment. The stream wliich ran past 462 DESIRE TO POSSESS A VILLAGE. Chap. XXIII. her village was quite impassable there, and for a distance of about a mile on either side, the bog being soft and shaky, and, when the crust was broken tlirough, about six feet deep. On the 28th we reached the village of the cliief Bango (lat. 12° 22' 53" S., long. 20° 58' E.), who brought us a handsome i present of meal, and the meat of an entire paUah. We here slaughtered the last of the cows presented to us by Mr. Schut, wliich I had kept millv:ed, imtil it gave only a teaspoonful at a time. My men enjoyed a hearty laugh when they found that I had given up aU hope of more, for they had been talking among themselves about my perseverance. We offered a leg of the cow to Bango ; but he informed us that neither he nor liis people ever pai-took of beef, as they looked upon cattle as human, and Uving at home like men. None of liis people purchased any of the meat, which was always eagerly done everywhere else. There are several other tribes who refuse to keep cattle, though not to eat them when offered by others, because, say they, oxen bring enemies and war ; but tliis is the first instance I have met with in wliich they have been refused as food. The fact of killing the paUahs for food, shows that the objection does not extend to meat in general. The Httle streams in this part of the country did not flow in deep dells, nor were we troubled with the gigantic grasses, which annoyed our eyes on the slopes of the streams before we came to Cabango. The country was quite flat, and the people cultivated manioc very extensi\ely. There is no large collection of the inhabitants in any one spot. The ambition of each seems to be to have his own Kttle village ; and we see many coming from distant parts with the flesh of buffaloes and antelopes as the tri- bute claimed by Bango. We have now entered again the country of the game ; but they are so exceedingly shy that we have not yet seen a single animal. The arrangement into many villages, pleases the Africans vastly, for every one who has a few huts imder him, feels himself in some measure to be a chief. The country at this time is covered with yellowish grass quite dry. Some of the bushes and trees are green ; others are shedding their leaves, the yomig buds pusliing off the old foHage. Trees, wliich in the south stand bare dm-ing the winter months, have here but a short period of leaflessness. Occasionally, however, a cold north wind comes Chap. XXI If. SPRING AT KOLOBEXCr. 463 up even as far as Cabango, and spreads a wintry aspect on all the exposed vegetation. The tender shoots of the evergreen trees on the south side become as if scorched ; the leaves of manioc, pumpkins, and other tender plants, are killed ; wliile the same kinds, in spots sheltered by forests, continue green tlu-ough the whole year. All the interior of South Africa has a distinct winter of cold, varying in intensity ^vith the latitudes. In the central parts of the Cape colony, the cold in the winter is often severe, and the ground is covered with snow. At Kuruman snow seldom falls, but the frost is* keen. There is frost even as hv as the Chobe, and a partial TOiter in the B^^rotse valley ; but beyond the Orange Eiver we never have cold and damp combuied. Indeed a shower of rain seldom or never falls dm-ing winter, and hence the healthiness of the Bechuana climate. From the Barotse valley northwards, it is questionable if it ever freezes; but during the prevalence of the south wind, the thermometer smks as low as 42^, and conveys the impression of bitter cold. Nothing can exceed the beauty of the change from the wintry appearance to that of spring, at Kolobeng. Previous to the com- mencement of the rains, an easterly wind blows strongly by day, but dies away at night. The clouds coUect in increasmg masses, and relieve in some measure the bright glare of the southern sun. The ^vind di-ies up everything ; and when at its greatest strength is hot, and raises clouds of dust. The general temperatm-e during the day rises above 96° : then showers begin to fall ; and if the ground is but once well soaked with a good day's rain, the change produced is marvellous. In a day or two a tinge of green is apparent all over the landscape ; and in five or six days, the fresh leaves sprouting forth, and the young grass shooting up, give an appearance of sprmg which it requires weeks of a colder cHmate to produce. The bu'ds, wdiich in the hot dry windy season had been silent, now hmst forth into merry twittering songs, and are busy builduig their nests. Some of them, indeed, hatch several times a-year. The lowering of the temperature, by rains or other causes, has much the same effect as the increasmg mildness of our own spring. The earth teems with, myriads of young insects ; in some parts of the country hundreds of centipedes, myiiapedes, and beetles, emerge from then' liiding-places, somewhat as our 464 WHITE ANTS. Chap. XXIH, snails at home do ; and in tlie evenings tlie wliite ants swarm by thousands. A stream of them is seen to rush out of a hole, and, after flyhig one or two hundred yards, they descend ; and if they light upon a piece of soil proper for the commencement of a new colony, they bend up then- tails, unhook their wings, and, leaving them on the surface, quickly begin their mining operations. If an attempt is made to separate the -svings from the body by drawing them away backwards, they seem as if hooked into the body, and tear away large portions of the insect ; but if turned forward, as the ant itself does, they snap off mth the greatest ease. Indeed they seem formed only to serve the insect in its short flight to a new habitation, and then to be thrown aside. Nothing can exceed the eagerness with which at the proper time they rush out from their bu'thplace. Occasionally this occm-s in a house, and then, m order to prevent every corner from being filled with them, I have seen a fire placed over the orifice ; but they hesitate not even to pass through the fire. While swarming they appear like snow-flakes floating about in the air, and dogs, cats, hawks, and almost every bkd, may be seen busily devouring them. The natives, too, profit by the occasion, and actively collect them for food, they being about half an inch long, as tliick as a crowquiU, and very fat. When roasted they are said to be good, and some- what resemble grains of boiled rice. An idea may be formed of tliis dish by what once occurred on the banks of the Zouga. The Bayeiye chief Palani visiting us while eating, I gave him a piece of bread and preserved apricots ; and as he seemed to relish it much, I asked liim if he had any food equal to that in his country. " Ah," said he, did you ever taste white ants ?" As I never had, he rephed, " Well, if you had, you never could have desired to eat an}i:liing better." The general way of catching them is to dig into the ant-liill, and wait till all the builders come forth to repau the damage ; then brush them off quickly into a vessel, as the ant-eater does into his mouth. The fall of the rain makes all the cattle look fresh and clean, and both men and women proceed cheerily to their afready hoed gardens, and sow the seed. The large animals in the country leave the spots where they had been compelled to congregate foi the sake of water, and become much -wilder. Occasionally a herd of buffaloes or antelopes smell rain from afar, and set off in a Chap. XXHI. VALLEY OF THE LOEMBWE. 4G5 straight line towards the place. Sometimes they make mistakes, and are obKged to return to the water they had left. Very large tracts of country are denuded of old grass during the winter, by means of fire, in order to attract the game to that which there springs up unmixed with the older crop. Tliis new herbage has a renovating tendency, for as long as they feed on the dry grass of the former season they continue in good condi- tion ; but no sooner are they able to indulge their appetites on the fresh herbage, than even the marrow in their bones becomes dis- solved, and a red soft 'uneatable mass is left behind. After this, commences the work of regaining their former plumpness. May SOth. — We left Bango, and proceeded to the river Loembwe, which flows to the N.N.E., and abounds in hippo- potami. It is about sixty yards wide and four feet deep, but usually contains much less water than this, for there are fishing- weirs placed right across it. Like all the African rivers in this quarter, it has morasses on each bank, yet the valley in which it winds, when seen from the liigh lands above, is extremely beau- tiful. This valley is about the fourth of a mile wide, and it w^as easy to fancy the similarity of many spots on it to the goodly manors in our own country, and feel assured that there was still ample territory left for an indefinite increase of the world's popula- tion. The villages are widely apart, and difficult of access, from the paths being so covered with tall grass, that even an ox can scarcely foUow the track. The grass cuts the feet of the men ; yet we met a woman with a Kttle cliild, and a girl, wending their way home with loads of manioc. The sight of a white man always infuses a tremor into their dark bosoms, and in every case of the kind, they appeared immensely relieved when I had fairly passed, without having sprung upon them. In the villages, the dogs run away with their tails between their legs, as if they had seen a Hon. The women peer from behind the waUs till he comes near them, and then hastily dash into the house. When a Httle child, unconscious of danger, meets you in the street, he sets up a scream at the apparition, and conveys the impression that he is not far from going into fits. Among the Bechuanas, I have been obhged to reprove the women for making a hobgoblin of the white man, and teUing their children that they would send for him to bite them. 2 H 466 SPECIMEN OF QUARRELLING. Chap. XXIH. Having passed the Loembwe, we were in a more open countiy, with every few hours a small valley, through which ran a Httle rill in the middle of a bog. These were always difficult to pass, and being numerous, kept the lower part of the person constantly wet. At different points in our course we came upon votive offerings to the Barimo. These usually consisted of food ; and every deserted village still contained the idols and httle sheds with pots of medicine in them. One afternoon we passed a small frame house, with the head of an ox in it as an object of worship. The di^eary uniformity of gloomy forests and open flats, must have a depressing influence on the minds of the people. Some villages appear more superstitious than others, if we may judge from the greater number of idols they contain. Only on one occasion did we witness a specimen of quarrelliQg. An old woman, standing by om* camp, continued to belabour a good-looldng young man for hours with her tongue. Irritated at last, he uttered some words of impatience, when another man sprang at liim, exclaiming, " How dare you cm^e my ' Mama ' ? " They caught each other, and a sort of pushing, dragging, wrest- ling-match ensued. The old woman who had been the cause of the affray, wished us to interfere, and the combatants themselves hoped as much, but we, preferring to remain neutral, allowed them to fight it out. It ended by one falling under the other, both, fi'om their scufiling, being in a state of nudity. They picked up their clothing, and ran off in different directions, each tlu'eatening to brmg his gun and settle the disj)ute in mortal combat. Only one, however, returned, and the old woman con- tinued her scolding till my men, fairly tired of her tongue, ordered her to be gone. This trifling incident was one of interest to me, for, dm-ing the whole period of my residence in the Bechuana country, I never saw unarmed men strike each other. Their disputes are usually conducted with great volubflity and noisy swearing, but they generally terminate by both parties bursting into a laugh. At every village attempts were made to induce us to remain a night. Sometimes large pots of beer were offered to us as a temptation. Occasionally the head-man would peremptorily ordei* us to halt under a tree which he pointed out. At other times young men volunteered to guide us to the impassable part of the Chap. XXIH. FUNERAL OBSERVANCES. 467 next bog, in the hope of bringing us to a stand, for all are exces- sively eager to trade ; but food was so very cheap that we sometimes preferred paying them to keep it, and let us part in good humom-. A good-sized fowl could be had for a single charge of gunpowder. Each native who omis a gun, carries about with liim a measm-e capable of holding but one charge, in wliich he receives his powder. Throughout tliis region the women are almost entirely naked, their gomis bemg a patch of cloth frightfuJly narrow, with no flounces ; and nothing could exceed the eagerness with which they offered to purchase strips of calico of an inferior description. They were dehghted with the larger pieces we gave, though only about two feet long, for a fowl, and a basket of upwards of 20 lbs. of meal. As w^e had now only a small remnant of our stock, we were obhged to withstand their impor- tunity, and then many of the women, with true maternal feelings, held up their httle naked babies, entreating us to sell only a Little rag for them. The fire, they say, is then- only clotlihig by night, and the little ones derive heat by clinging closely to then- parents. Instead of a skin or cloth to carry their babies in, the women plait a belt about four inches broad, of the inner bark of a tree, and this, hung from the one shoulder to the opposite side, hke a soldier's belt, enables them to support the child by placing it on their side in a sitting position. Their land is very fertile, and they can raise ground-nuts and manioc in abundance. Here I observed no cotton, nor any domestic animals except fowls and little dogs. The chief possessed a few goats, and I never could get any satisfactory reason, why the people also did not rear them. On the evening of the 2nd of June we reached the village of Kawawa, rather an important personage in these parts. This village consists of forty or fifty huts, and is surrounded by forest. Drums were beating over the body of a man who had died the preceding day, and some women were making a clamorous wail at the door of his hut, and addressing the deceased as if aHve. The drums continued beating the whole night, mth as much regularity as a steam-engine thumps, on board sliip. We observed that a person dressed fantastically with a gTeat number of feathers, Jeft the people at the dance and wailing, and went away into the deep forest in the mormng, to retm-n agam to the obsequies in the evening ; he is intended to represent one of the Barimo. 2 H 2 468 KAWAWA'S DEMAND. Chap. XXm. In tlie morning we liad agreeable intercourse witli Kawawa ; he visited us, and we sat and talked nearly the whole day with him and his people. When we visited liim in return, we found him in his large court-house, wliich, though of a beehive shape, was remarkably well built. As I had shown him a number of curiosities, he now produced a jug, of English ware, shaped like an old man holding a can of beer in liis hand, as the greatest cm-iosity he had to exliibit. AVe had now an opportunity of hearing a case brought before him for judgment. A poor man and liis wife were accused of having be^vitched the man, whose wake was now held in the village. Before Kawawa even heard the defence, he said, " You have killed one of my childi-en. Bring all yours before me, that I may choose which of them shall be mine instead." The wife eloquently defended herself, but this availed Kttle, for these accusations are the means resorted to by some cliiefs, to secure subjects for the slave-market. He probably thought that I had come to pm'chase slaves, though I liad already given a pretty full explanation of my pursuits both to liimself and his people. We exhibited the pictm-es of the magic-lantern in the evening, and all were deHghted except Kawawa himself He showed symptoms of dread, and several times started up as if to run away, but was prevented by the crowd behind. Some of the more intelhgent understood the explanations well, and expatiated eloquently on them to the more obtuse. Nothing could exceed the civiHties which had passed between us during this day ; but Kawawa had heard that the Chiboque had forced us to pay an ox, and now thought he might do the same. A\Tien therefore I sent next morning to let him know that we were ready to start, he replied in his figurative way, "If an ox came in the way of a man, ought he not to eat it ? I had given one to the Chiboque, and must give him the same, together vrith. a gun, gunpowder, and a black robe, like that he had seen spread out to dry the day before ; that, if I refused an ox, I must give one of my men, and a book by wliich he might see the state of Matiamvo's heart towards him, and wliich would forewarn him, should Matiamvo ever resolve to cut off his head." Kawawa came in the coolest manner possible to our encampment after sending tliis message, and told me he bad seen aU our goods, and must have aU he asked, as he had Chap. XXJU. UNPLEASANT PAKTING. 469 command of the Kasai in our front, and would prevent us from passing it, unless we paid this tribute. I replied that the goods were my property and not his ; that I would never have it said that a wliite man had paid tribute to a black ; and that I should cross the Kasai in spite of him. He ordered his people to arm themselves, and when some of my men saw them rushing for their bows, arrows, and spears, they became somewhat panic- stricken. I ordered them to move away, and not to fire unless Kawawa's people struck the first blow. I took the lead, and expected them all to follow, as they usually had done, but many of my men remained behind. When I knew this, I jumped off the ox, and made a rush to them with the revolver in my hand. Kawawa ran away amongst his people, and they turned their backs too. I shouted to my men to take up then- luggage and march ; some did so with alacrity, feeling that they had disobeyed orders by remaining, but one of them refused, and was preparing to fire at Kawawa, until I gave him a punch on the head with the pistol, and made him go too. I felt here, as else- where, that subordination must be maintained at all risks. We all moved into the forest, the people of Kawawa standuig about a hundred yards off, gazing, but not firing a shot or an arrow. It is extremely unpleasant to part mth these chieftains thus, after spending a day or two in the most amicable intercom-se, and in a part where the people are generally civil. Tliis Kawawa, however, is not a good specimen of the Balonda chiefs, and is rather notorious in the neighbourhood for his folly. We were told, that he has good reason to believe that Matiamvo will some day cut off his head, for his disregard of the rights of strangers. Kawawa was not to be balked of his supposed rights by the unceremonious way in which we had left him, for, when we had reached the ford of the Kasai, about ten miles distant, we found that he had sent four of his men, with orders to the ferrymen to refuse us passage. We were here duly informed that we must dehver up all the articles mentioned, and one of our men besides. This demand for one of our number always nettled every heart. The canoes were taken away before om: eyes, and we were sup- posed to be quite helpless without them, at a river a good hundred yards broad, and very deep. Pitsane stood on the bank, gazing with apparent indifference on the stream, and made an accm'ate 470 A STEATAGEM. Chap. XXIII. observation of where the canoes were liidden among the reeds. The ferrymen casually asked one of my Batoka if they had rivers in liis country, and he answered with truth, " No, we have none." Kawawa's people then felt sure we could not cross. I thought of s^vimming when they were gone ; but after it was dark, by the unasked loan of one of the hidden canoes, we soon were snug in our bivouac on the southern hank of the Kasai. I left some beads, as payment for some meal, which had been presented by the ferrymen ; and, the canoe having been left on their own side of the river, Pitsane and his companions laughed uproariously at the disgust our enemies would feel, and then' perplexity as to who had been our paddler across. They were quite sure that KawaAva would imagine that we had been ferried over by his o^vn people, and would be divining to find out who had done the deed. Allien ready to depart m the morning, Kawawa's people appeared on the opposite heights, and could scarcely beHeve their eyes when they saw us prepared to start away to the south. At last one of them called out, " Ah ! ye are bad." To which Pitsane and his companions retorted, " Ah ! ye are good ; and we thank you for the loan of your canoe." We were careful to explain the whole of the circumstances to Katema and the other chiefs, and they all agreed that we were perfectly justifiable under the cir- cumstances, and that Matiamvo would approve our conduct. When anything that might bear an mifavourable construction happens among themselves, they send explanations to each other. The mere fact of doing so, prevents them from losiag their cha- racter, for there is pubHc opinion even amongst them. Chap. XXIV. LEVEL PLAIXS — BIKDS. 471 CHAPTER XXIV. Level plains — Vultures and other birds — Diversity of colour in flowers of the same species — The sundew — Twenty-seventh attack of fever — A river which flows in opposite directions — Lake Dilolo the watershed between Atlantic and Indian Oceans — Position of rocks — Sir Eoderick Murchison's explanation — Characteristics of rainy season in connexion with the floods of the Zambesi and the Nile — Probable reason of difference in amount of rain south and north of the equator — Arab reports of region east of Londa — Probable watershed of the Zambesi and the Nile — Lake Dilolo — Eeach Katema's town ; his renewed hospitality ; desire to appear like a white man ; ludicrous departure — Jackdaws — Ford southern branch of Lake Dilolo — Small fish — Project for a Makololo village near the confluence of the Leeba and the Leeambye — Hearty welcome from Shinte — Kolim- bota's wound — Plant-seeds and fruit-trees brought from Angola — Masiko and Limboa's quarrel — Nyamoana now a widow — Purchase canoes and descend the Leeba — Herds of wild animals on its banks — Unsuccessful buffalo-hunt — Frogs — Sinbad and the tsetse — Despatch a message to Manenko — Arrival of her husband Sambanza — The ceremony called Kasendi — Unexpected fee for perfoiming a surgical operation — Social condition of the tribes — Desertion of Mboenga — Stratagem of Mambowe hunters — Water-turtles — Charged by a buffalo — Reception from the people of Libonta — Explain the causes of our long delay — Pitsane's speech — Thanksgiving services — Appearance of my " Braves " — Won- derful kindness of the people. After leaving the Kasai, we entered upon the extensive level plains which we had formerly found in a flooded condition. The water on them was not yet dried up, as it still remained in certain hollow spots. Yultures were seen floating in the air, showing that carrion was to be found ; and, indeed, we saw several of the large game, but so exceedingly wild as to be unapproachable. Numbers of caterpillars mounted the stalks of grass, and many dragonflies and butterflies appeared, though tliis was winter. The caprimulgus or goat-sucker, swifts, and different kinds of swallows, with a fier^^-red bee-eater in flocks, showed that the lowest tem- perature here, does not destroy the insects on which they feed. Jet-black larks, with yellow shoulders, enhven the mornings with their songs, but they do not continue so long on the ^^iiig as ours, nor soar so high. We saw many of the pretty white ardea, and 472 FLOWEES — SUNDEW. Chap. XXIV. other water-birds, flying over the spots not yet dried up; and occasionally wild ducks, but these only in numbers sufficient to remind us that we were approaching the Zambesi, where every water-fowl has a home. Wliile passing across these interminable-looking plains, the eye rests with pleasure on a small flower, wliich exists m such num- bers as to give its own hue to the ground. One broad band of yellow stretches across our path. On looking at the flowers which formed this golden carpet, we saw every variety of that colour, from the palest lemon to the richest orange. Crossing a hundred yards of this, we came upon another broad band of the same flower, but blue, and this colour is varied from the hghtest tint, to dark blue and even pm-ple. I had before observed the same floAver possessing different colours in different parts of the coimtry, and once, a great number of liver-coloured flowers, which else- where were yellow. Even the colour of the bhds changed with the district we passed through ; but never before did I see such a marked change, as from yellow to blue, repeated again and again on the same plain. Another beautiful plant attracted my atten- tion so strongly on these plains, that I dismounted to examine it ; to my great delight I found it to be an old home acquaintance, a species of Drosera, closely resembhng our own sundew {Brosera Anglia) ; the flower-stalk never attains a height of more than two or three inches, and the leaves are covered with reddish hairs, each of which has a drop of clammy fluid at its tip, making the whole appear as if spangled over with small diamonds. I noticed it first in the morning, and imagined the appearance was caused by the sun shining on drops of dew, but, as it continued to maintain its brilliancy during the heat of the day, I proceeded to investigate the cause of its beauty, and found that the points of the hairs exuded pure liquid, ia, apparently, capsules of clear glutinous matter. They were thus Hke dewdrops preserved from evaporation. The clammy fluid is intended to entrap insects, which, dying on the leaf, probably yield nutriment to the plant. During our second day on this extensive plain, I suffered from my twenty-seventh attack of fever, at a part where no surface- water was to be found. We never thought it necessary to carry water with us in this region ; and now, when I was quite unable to move on, my men soon found water to allay my burning thirst Chap. XXIV. PHENOMENON OF THE LOTEMBWA. 473 by digging mtli sticks a few feet beneath tlie surface. We had thus an opportunity of observing the state of these remarkable plains at different seasons of the year. Next day we pursued our way, and on the 8th of June, we forded the Lotembwa to the N.W. of Dilolo, and regained our former path. The Lotembwa here is about a mile wide, about three feet deep, and full of the lotus, pap}Tus, arum, mat-rushes, and other aquatic plants. I did not observe the course in which the water flowed, wliile crossing ; but, having noticed before that the Lotembwa on the other side of the lake Dilolo flowed in a southerly direction, I supposed that tliis was simply a prolongation of the same river beyond Dilolo, and that it rose in tliis large marsh, which we had not seen in our progress to the N.W. But when we came to the Southern Lotembwa, we were informed by Sliakatwala that the river we had crossed flowed in an opposite direction, — not into Dilolo, but into the Kasai. Tliis phenomenon of a river running in opposite directions struck even his mind as strange ; and, though I did not observe the current, simply from taking it for granted that it was towards the lake, I have no doubt that his assertion, corroborated as it was by others, is correct, and that the Dilolo is actually the watershed between the river systems that flow to the east and west. I would have returned, in order to examine more carefully this most interesting point, but, ha\dng had my lower extremities chilled in crossing the Northern Lotembwa, I was seized with vomiting of blood, and, besides, saw no reason to doubt the native testimony. The distance between Dilolo and the valleys leading to that of the Kasai is not more than fifteen miles, and the plains between are perfectly level ; and, had I returned, I should only have found that this Httle lake Dilolo, by gi\TQg a portion to the Kasai and another to the Zambesi, distributes its waters to the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. I state the fact exactly as it opened to my own mind ; for it was only now, that I apprehended the true form of the river systems and continent. I had seen the various rivers of this country on the western side flo^dng from the subtending ridges into the centre, and had received informa- tion from natives and Arabs, that most of the rivers on the eastern side of the same great region, took a somewhat similar course from an elevated ridge there, and that all united in two main 474 POSITION OF ROCKS. Chap. XXIV. drains, the one flowing to the N. and the other to the S., and that the northern drain found its way out by the Congo to the W., and the southern by the Zambesi to the E. I w^as thus on the watershed, or highest point, of these two great systems, but still not more than 4000 feet above the level of the sea, and 1000 feet lower than the top of the western ridge we had already crossed ; yet, instead of lofty snow-clad mountains appearing to verify the conjectures of the speculative, we had extensive plains, over which one may travel a month Avithout seeing anytliing liigher than an ant-liiU or a tree. I w^as not then aAvare that any one else had discovered the elevated trough form of the centre of Africa. I had observed that the old schistose rocks on the sides, dipped in towards the centre of the country, and their strilve nearly corre- sponded Avith the major axis of the continent ; and also that where the later erupted trap-rocks had been spread out in tabular masses over the central plateau, they had borne angular fragments of the older rocks in their substance ; but the partial generalization which the observations led to, was, that great volcanic action had taken place in ancient times, somewhat in the same way it does now, at distances of not more than tliree huadi-ed miles from the sea, and that this igneous action, extending along both sides of the continent, had tilted up the lateral rocks in the manner they are now seen to lie. The greater energy, and more extended range of igneous action, in those very remote periods when Africa was formed, embracing aU the flanks, imparted to it its present very simple literal outline. Tliis was the length to which I had come. The trap-rocks, which now constitute the " fiUing-up " of the great valley, were always a puzzle to me, till favoured with Su- Roderick Mm'chison's explanation of the original form of the continent, for then I could see clearly why these trap-rocks, which still He in a perfectly horizontal position on extensive areas, held in their substance angular fragments, containing algae of the old scliists, which form the bottom of the origiaal lacustriae basin : the traps, in bm-stirig tln*ough, had broken them off and preserved them. There are, besides, ranges of hills ia the central parts, composed of clay and sandstone scliists, with the ripple mark dis- tiact, in which no fossils appear ; but as they ai-e usually tilted away from the masses of horizontal trap, it is probable that they Chap. XXIV. SIR R. IiIURCfflSON'S EXPLANATION. 475 too were a portion of tlie original bottom, and fossils may yet be found in them.* The characteristics of the rainy season in this wonderfully humid region, may account in some measure for the periodical floods of the Zambesi, and perhaps the Nile. The rains seem to follow the course of the sun, for they fall in October and Novem- ber, when the sun passes over this zone on his way south. On reacliing the tropic of Capricorn in December, it is dry ; and December and January are the months in which injurious droughts are most dreaded near that tropic (from Kolobeng to Linyanti). As he returns again to the north, in February, March, and April, we have the great rains of the year ; and the plains, which in October and November were well moistened, and imbibed rain hke sponges, now become supersatm-ated, and pour forth those floods of clear water which inimdate the banks of the Zambesi. Somewhat the same phenomenon probably, causes the periochcal inundations of the Nile. The two rivers rise in the same region ; but there is a difference in the period of flood, possibly from their * After dwelling upon the geological structure of the Cape Colonj^ as developed by Mr. A. Bain, and the existence in very remote periods of lacus- trine conditions in the central part of South Africa, as proved by freshwater and terrestrial fossils, Sir Roderick Murchison thus writes : — *' Such as South Africa is now, such have been her main features during countless past ages, anterior to the creation of the human race. For the old rocks which form her outer fringe, unquestionably circled round an interior marshy or lacustrine country, in which the Dicynodon flourished, at a time when not a single animal was similar to any living thing which now inhabits the surface of our globe. The present central and meridian zone of waters, whether lakes or marshes, extending from Lake Tchad to Lake 'Ngami, with hippopotami on their banks, are therefore but the great modern residual geo- graphical phenomena of those of a mesozoic age. The differences, however, between the geological past of Africa and her present state, are enormous. Since that primeval time, the lands have been much elevated above the sea- level — eruptive rocks piercing in parts through them ; deep rents and defiles have been suddenly formed in the subtending ridges through which some rivers escape outwards. " Travellers will eventually ascertain whether the basin-shaped structure, which is here announced as having been the great feature of the most ancient, as it is of the actual geography of South Africa {i.e. from primeval times to the present day), does, or does not, extend into Northern Africa. Looking at that much broader portion of the continent, we have some reason to surmise that the higher mountains also form, in a general sense, its flanks only." — p. cxxiii. Presidenfs Address, Boyal Geographical Society, 1852. 476 REGION EAST OF LONDA. Chap. XXIV. being on opposite sides of the equator. The waters of the Nile are said to become turbid in June ; and the flood attains its greatest height in August, or the period when we may suppose the supersaturation to occur. The subject is worthy the inves- tigation of those who may examine the region between the equator and 10° S. ; for the Nile does not show much increase when the sun is at its furthest point north, or tropic of Cancer, but at the time of its returning to the equator, exactly as in the other case when he is on Capricorn, and the Zambesi is affected.* From information derived from Arabs of Zanzibar, whom I met at NaKele in the middle of the country, the region to the east of the parts of Londa over wliich we have travelled, resembles them in its conformation. They report swampy steppes, some of which have no trees, where the inhabitants use grass, and stalks of native corn, for fuel. A large shallow lake is also pointed out in that direction, named Tanganyenka, wliich requires tliree days for crossmg in canoes. It is connected with another named Kalagwe (Garague ?), farther north, and may be the Nyanja of the Maravim. From this lake is derived, by numerous small streams, the river Loapula, the eastern branch of the Zambesi, which, coming from the N.E., flows past tlie town of Cazembe. The southern end of this lake is ten days north-east of the towTi of Cazembe ; and as that is probably more than five days from Shinte, we cannot have been nearer to it than 150 miles. Probably this lake is the watershed between the Zambesi and the Nile, as Lake Dilolo is that between the Leeba and Kasai. But however * The above is from my own observation, together with information derived from the Portuguese in the interior of Angola ; and I may add that the result of many years' observation by Messrs. Gabriel and Brand at Loanda, on the west coast, is in accordance therewith. It rains there between the 1st and 30th of November, but January and December are usually both w^arm and dry. The heavier rains commence about the 1st of February, and last until the 15th of May. Then no rain falls between the 20th of May and the 1st of November. The rain averages from 12 to 15 inches per annum. In 1852 it was 12,034 inches; in 1853, 15,473 inches. Although I had no means of measuring the amount of rain which fell in Londa, I feel certain that the annual quantity exceeds very much that which falls on the coast, because for a long time we noticed that every dawn was marked by a deluging shower, which began without w^arning-drops or thunder. I observed that the rain ceased suddenly on the 28th of April, and the lesser rains commenced about a fortnight before the beginning of November. Chap. XXIV. CAUSES OF ARIDITY AND MOISTURE. 477 tliis may be, the phenomena of the rainy season show that it is not necessary to assume the existence of high sno\\y mountains, until we get rehable information. This, it is to be hoped, will be one of the results of the researches of Captain Burton in his present journey. The original valley formation of the continent, determined the northern and southern course of the Zambesi in the centre, and also of that ancient river which once flowed from the Linyanti basin to the Orange river. It also gave direction to the southern and northern flow of the Kasai and the Nile. We find that be- tween the latitudes, say 6° and 12^ S., from wliich, in all proba- bihty, the head waters of these rivers diverge, there is a sort of elevated partition in the great longitudinal valley. Presuming on the correctness of the native information, which places the humid region to which the Nile and Zambesi probably owe their origin, witliin the latitudes indicated, why does so much more rain fall there than in the same latitudes north of the equator ? Why does Darfur not give rise to great rivers, like Londa and the country east of it? The prevailing winds in the ocean opposite the territory pointed out are said to be from the N.-E. and S.-E. during a great part of the year ; they extend their currents on one side at least of the equator, quite beyond the middle of the continent, and even until in Angola they meet the sea-breeze from the Atlantic. If the reader remembers the explanation, given at page 95,* that the comparative want of * Since the explanation in page 95 was printed I have been pleased to see the same explanation given by the popular astronomer and natural philosopher M. Babinet, in reference to the climate of France. It is quoted from a letter of a correspondent of the Times in Paris : — " In the normal meteorological state of France and Europe, the west wind, which is the counter-current of the trade-winds that constantly blow from the east under the tropics — the west wind, I say, after having touched France and Europe by the western shores, re-descends by Mar- seilles and the Mediterranean, Constantinople and the Archipelago, Astrakan and the Caspian Sea, in order to merge again into the great circuit of the general winds, and be thus carried again into the equatorial current. Whenever these masses of air, impregnated with humidity during their passage over the ocean, meet with an obstacle, such as a chain of mountains, for example, they slide up the acclivity, and, when they reach the crest, find themselves reUeved from a portion of the column of air which pressed upon them. Thus, dilating by reason of their elas- 478 CAUSES OF AKIDITY AND MOISTUEE. Chap. XXIV. rain on tlie Kalahari Desert is caused by tlie mass of air losing its humidity as it passes up, and ghdes over the subtending ridge, and will turn to the map, he may perceive that the same cause is in operation in an intense degree by the moun- tains of Abyssinia to render the region about Darfur still more arid ; and that the flanking ranges mentioned, lie much nearer tlie equator than those which rob the Kalahari of hu- midity. The Nile, even while running through a part of that region, receives remarkably few branches. Observing also that there is no kno\vn abrupt lateral mountain-range between 6° and 12° S., but that there is an elevated partition there, and that the southing and northing of the south-easters and north- easters probably cause a confluence of the two great atmospheric currents, he will perceive an accumulation of humidity on the flanks and crown of the partition, instead of, as elsewhere, opposite the Kalahari and Darfur, a deposition of the atmos- pheric moisture on the eastern slopes of the subtending ridges. This explanation is offered with all deference to those who have made meteorology their special study, and as a hint to travellers wdio may have opportunity to examine the subject more fully. ticity, they cause a considerable degree of cold, and a precipitation of humidity in the form of fogs, clouds, rain, or snow. A similar effect occurs whatever be the obstacle they find in their way. Now, this is what had gradually taken place before 1856. By some cause or other connected with the currents of the atmosphere, the warm current from the west had annually ascended northward, so that, instead of passing through France, it came from the Baltic and the north of Germany, thus momentarily disturbing the ordinary law of the temperatures of Europe. But in 1856 a sudden change occurred. The western current again passed, as before, through the centre of France. It met with an obstacle in the air which had not yet found its usual outlet towards the west and south. Hence a stoppage, a rising, a consequent dilation and fall of temperature, extraordinary rains and inundations. But now that the natural state of things is restored, nothing appears to prognosticate the return of similar disasters. Were the western current found annually to move further north, we might again experience meteorological effects similar to those of 1836. Hence the regular seasons may be considered re-established in France for several years to come. The important meteorological com- munications which the Imperial Observatory is daily establishing with the other countries of Europe, and the introduction of apparatus for measuring the velocity of the aerial currents and prevailing winds, wiU soon afford prognostics sufficiently certain to enable an enlightened Government to provide in time against future evils." Chap. XXIV. LAKE DILOLO. 479 I often observed, \Yliile on a portion of the partition, that the air by night was generally quite still, but as soon as the sun's rays began to shoot across the upper strata of the atmosphere in the early morning, a copious discharge came suddenly down from the accumulated clouds. It always reminded me of the experiment of putting a rod into a saturated solution of a certain salt, causing instant ciystallization. This, too, was the period when I often obseiTed tlie greatest amount of cold. After crossmg the Northern Lotembwa, we met a party of the people of Kangenke, who had treated us kindly on our way to the north, and sent him a robe of striped caHco, ^dth an explanation of the reason for not returning through his village. We then went on to the Lake Dilolo. It is a fine sheet of water, six or eight miles long, and one or two broad, and somewhat of a trian- gular shape. A branch proceeds from one of the angles, and flows into the Southern Lotembwa. Though labouring under fever, the sight of the blue waters, and the waves lashing the shore, had a most sootliing influence on the mind, after so much of lifeless, flat, and gloomy forest. The heart yearned for the vivid im- pressions, which are always created by the sight of the broad expanse of the grand old ocean. That has life in it ; but the flat uniformities over wliich we had roamed, made me feel as if buried ahve. We found Moene Dilolo (Lord of the Lake) a fat joUy feUow, who lamented that when they had no strangers they had plenty of beer, and always none when they came. He gave us a handsome present of meal and putrid buffalo's flesh. Meat cannot be too far gone for them, as it is used only in small quantities as a sauce to their tasteless manioc. They were at this time hunting antelopes, in order to send the skins as a tribute to Matiamvo. Great quantities of fish are caught in the lake ; and numbers of young water-fowl are now found in the nests among the reeds. Our progress had always been slow, and I found that our rate of travelling could only be five hours a-day for five successive days. On the sixth, both men and oxen showed symptoms of knocking up. We never exceeded two and a half, or three miles an hour in a straight line, though aU were anxious to get home. The difference in the rate of travelling between ourselves and the slave-traders, w^as our having a rather quicker step, a longer day's journey, and twenty travelling days a-month instead of theii* ten. WTien one of 480 KATEMA'S HOSPITALITY AND DIGNITY. Chap. XXIV. my men became ill, but still could walk, others parted his luggage among them ; yet we had often to stop one day a-week, besides Sundays, simply for the sake of rest. The latitude of Lake Dilolo is 11° 32' 1" S., long. 22° 27' E. June 14:th. — We reached the collection of straggling villages over which Katema rules, and were thanlrful to see old famihar faces again. Shakatwala performed the part of a chief, by bring- ing forth abundant suppHes of food in his master's name. He informed us that Katema too, was out, hunting skins for Matiamvo. In different parts of this country, we remarked that when old friends were inquired for, the reply was, " Ba hola — they are get- ting better ;" or if the people of a village were inquired for, the answer was, " They are recovering," as if sickness was quite a com- mon thing. Indeed, many with whom we had made acquaintance in going north, we now found were in their graves. On the 15th, Katema came home from his huntiag, having heard of our arrival. He desired me to rest myself and eat abundantly, for, being a great man, I must feel tired ; and he took good care to give the means of doing so. AU the people in these parts are extremely kind and liberal with their food, and Katema was not behindhand. When he visited our encampment, I presented hitn with a cloak of red baize, ornamented with gold tinsel, wliich cost thirty shillings, according to the promise I had made in going to Loanda ; also a cotton robe, both large and smaU beads, an iron spoon, and a tin pannikin contairong a quarter of a pound of powder. He seemed greatly pleased with the HberaHty shown, and assiu-ed me that the way was mine, and that no one should molest me in it, if he could help it. We were informed by Shakatwala that the chief never used any part of a present, before making an offer of it to his mother, or the departed spirit to whom he prayed. Katema asked if I could not make a dress for him like the one I wore, so that he might appear as a white man when any stranger visited him. One of the councillors, imagining that he ought to second this by begging, Katema checked him by sayiag, "Whatever strangers give, be it Httle or much, I always receive it with thank- fulness, and never trouble them for more." On departing, he mounted on the shoulders of his spokesman, as the most dignified mode of retiriag. The spokesman beiag a slender man, and the chief six feet high, and stout in proportion, there would have been Chap. XXIV. KATEMA'S HERD — JACKDAWS. 481 a breakdown, had he not been accustomed to it. We were very much pleased with Katema ; and next day he presented us with a cow, that we might enjoy the abundant suppHes of meal he had given with good animal food. He then departed for the hunting- ground, after assuriag me that the town afltd everjrthing in it were mine, and that his factotum, Shakatwala, would remain and attend to every want, and also conduct us to the Leeba. On attempting to slaughter the cow Katema had given, we found the herd as wild as buffaloes ; and one of my men having only wounded it, they fled many miles into the forest, and were with great difficulty brought back. Even the herdsman was afraid to go near them. The majority of them were white, and they were all beautiful animals. After hunting it for two days, it was despatched at last by another ball. Here we saw a flock of jack- daws, a rare sight in Londa, busy with the grubs in the valley, which are eaten by the people too. 2 I 482 PROJECT FOR A MAKOLOLO VILLAGE. Chap. XXIY. Leaving Kateina's town on tlie lOtli, and proceeding four miles to the eastward, we forded the southern branch of Lake Dilolo. We found it a mile and a quarter broad ; and as it flows into the Lotembwa, the lake would seem to be a drain of the smrounding flats, and to partake of T:he character of a fountain. The ford was waist-deep, and very difficult, fi^om the masses of arum and rushes tlirough which we waded. Going to the eastward about three miles, we came to the Southern Lotembwa itself, running in a valley two miles broad. It is here eighty or ninety yards wide, and contains numerous islands covered with dense sylvan vegeta- tion. In the rainy season the vaUey is flooded, and as the waters dry up, great, multitudes of fish are caught. Tliis happens very extensively over the country, and fishing-weirs are met with every- where. A species of smaU fish, about the size of the minnow, is caught in bagfuls, and dried in the sun. The taste is a pungent aromatic bitter, and it was partaken of freely by my people, although they had never met with it before. On many of the paths wliich had been flooded, a nasty sort of shme of decayed vegetable matter is left beliind, and much sickness prevails during the dr}Tng up of the water. We did not find our fi'iend Mozinkwa at liis pleasant home on the Lokaloeje ; liis wife was dead, and he had removed elsewhere. He followed us some distance, but our reappearance seemed to stir up his sorrows. We found the pontoon at the village in which we left it. It had been carefuUy preserved ; but a mouse had eaten a hole in it, and rendered it useless. We traversed the extended plain on the north bank of the Leeba, and crossed tliis river a little farther on at Kanyonke's village, which is about twenty miles west of the Peri hills, our former ford. The first stage beyond the Leeba, was at the rivulet Loambo, by the village of Chebende, nephew of Sliinte ; and next day, we met Chebende himself, returning from the funeral of Samoana, his father. He was tliin and haggard-looking, compared to what he had been before, the probable effect of the orgies in which he had been engaged. Pitsane and Mohorisi, having con- cocted the project of a Makololo village on the banks of the Leeba, as an approach to the white man's market, spoke to Chebende> as an influential man, on the subject, but he cautiously avoided expressing an opinion. The idea which had sprung up in their ovnci minds of an establishment somewhere near the confluence of Chap. XXIV. WELCOME FKOM SHINTE. 483 the Leeba and Leeambye, commended itself to my judgment at the time, as a geographically suitable point for civilization and commerce. The right bank of the Leeba there, is never flooded ; and from that point there is communication by means of canoes to the country of the Kanjdka, and also to Cazembe and beyond, with but one or two large waterfalls between. There is no obstruction down to the Barotse valley ; and there is probably c^noe navigation down the Kafue or Bashukulompo river, though it is reported to contain many cataracts. It flows through a fertile country, w^ell peopled with Bamasasa, who cultivate the native produce largely. As this was the middle of winter, it may be mentioned that the temperature of the w ater in the morning was 47°, and that of the air 50°, wliich, being loaded with moisture, was very cold to the feehngs. Yet the sun was very hot by day, and the temperature in the coolest shade from 88° to 90° ; in the evenings, from 76° to 78°. Before reaching the town of Shinte, we passed through many large villages of the Balobale, who have fled from the chief Kangenke. The Mambari from Bihe come constantly to him for trade ; and as he seUs his people, great nmnbers of them escape to Shinte and Katema, who refuse to give them up. We reached our friend Shinte, and received a hearty welcome from this friendly old man, and abundant provisions of the best he had. On hearing the report of the jom-ney given by my companions, and receiving a piece of cotton cloth about two yards square, he said, " These Mambari cheat us by bringing httle pieces only ; but the next time you pass I shall send men with you, to trade for me in Loanda." Wlien I explained the use made of the slaves he sold, and that he was just destroying his own tribe by selHng his people, and enlarging that of the Mambari for the sake of these smaU pieces of cloth, it seemed to him quite a new idea. He entered into a long detail of his troubles with Masiko, who had prevented liim from cultivating that friendship with the Makololo wliich I had inculcated, and had even plundered the messengers he had sent with Kohmbota to the Barotse vaUey. Shinte was particularly anxious to explain, that KoHmbota had remained after my departm^e of his own accord, and that he had engaged in the quarrels of the country without being invited'; that in attempting to capture one of the cliildren of a Balobale 2 I 2 484 PLANTS AND TEEES FROM ANGOLA. Chap. XXIY. man, who had offended the Balonda by taking honey from a hive which did not belong to him, Kolimbota had got wounded by a shot in the thigh ; but that he had cured the wound, given him a wife, and sent a present of cloth to Sekeletu, with a full account of the whole affair. From the statement of Shinte, we found that Kolimbota had learned, before we left his town, that the way we intended to take was so dangerous, that it would be better for him to leave us to our fate ; and as he had taken one of our canoes with him, it seemed evident that he did not exj)ect us to return. Shinte, however, sent a recommendation to his sister Nyamoana, to furnish as many canoes as we should need for our descent of the Leeba and Leeambye. As I had been desirous of introducing some of the fruit-trees of Angola, both for my own sake and that of the inhabitants, we had carried a pot containing a Kttle plantation of orange, cashew trees, custard-apple trees {anona), and a fig-tree, with coffee, ara9as {Ara^a pomifera), and papaws ( Cariea papaya). Fearing that, if we took them further south at present, they might be killed by the cold, we planted them out in an enclosure of one of Shinte's principal men, and, at his request, promised to give Stiinte a share when gro^vn. They know the value of fruits, but at present have none except wild ones. A wild fruit we frequently met with in Londa is eatable, and when boiled yields a large quantity of oil, which is much used in anointing both head and body. He eagerly accepted some of the seeds of the palm-oil tree (^Elceis G-uineensis), when told that this would produce oil in much greater quantity than their native tree, wliich is not a palm. There are very few palm-trees in this country, but near Bango we saw a few of a peculiar palm, the ends of the leaf-stalks of wliich, remain attached to the trunk, giving it a triangular shape. It is pleasant to observe that all the tribes in Central Africa are fond of agriculture. My men had collected quantities of seeds in Angola, and now distributed them amongst their friends. Some even carried onions, garhc, and bird's-eye pepper, growing in pannikins. The courts of the Balonda, planted with tobacco, sugar-cane, and plants used as relishes, led me to the belief, that care would be taken of my little nursery. The thermometer early in the mornings ranged from 42° to 52°, at noon 94° to 96°, and in the evening about 70°. It was Chap. XXIV. MASIKO AND LIMBOA'S QUARREL. 485 placed in the shade of my tent, which was pitched under the tliickest tree we could find. The sensation of cold, after the heat of the day, was very keen. The Balonda at this season never leave their fires till nine or ten in the morning. As the cold was so great here, it was probably frosty at Linyanti ; I therefore feared to expose my young trees there. The latitude of Shinte's town is 12° 37' 35" S., longitude 22° 47' E. We remained with Shinte till the 6th of July, he being imwill- ing to allow us to depart before hearing in a formal manner, in the presence of his greatest councillor Chebende, a message from Limboa, the brother of Masiko. Wlien Masiko fled from the Makololo country, .in consequence of a disHke of being in a state of subjection to Sebituane, he came into the territory of Sliinte, who received him kindly, and sent orders to all the villages in his vicinity to supply him with food. Limboa fled in a westerly direction with a number of people, and also became a cliief. His country was sometimes called Nyenko, but by the llambari and native Portuguese traders "Mboela" — the place where they " turned again," or back. As one of the fruits of polygamy, the children of different mothers are always in a state of variance. Each son endeavours to gain the ascendancy, by enticing away the followers of the others. The mother of Limboa, being of a high family, he felt aggrieved, because the situation chosen by Masiko was better than his. Masiko lived at a convenient dis- tance from the Saloisho hills, where there is abundance of iron- ore, with which the inhabitants manufacture hoes, knives, &c. They are also skilful in making wooden vessels. Limboa felt annoyed because he was obliged to apply for these articles through his brother, whom he regarded as his inferior, and accordingly resolved to come into the same district. As this was looked upon as an assertion of superiority, which Masiko would resist, it was virtually a declaration of war. Both Masiko and Shinte pleaded my mjunction to live in peace and friendship, but Limboa, con- fident of success, now sent the message which I was about to hear — " That he, too, higlily approved of the * word ' I had given, but would only for once transgress a Httle, and live at peace for ever afterwards." He now desired the aid of Shinte to subdue his brother. Messengers came from Masiko at the same time, desiring assistance to repel him. Shinte felt inclined to aid 486 THE LEEBA. Chap. XXIV. Limboa, but, as he had advised them both to wait till I came, I now m-ged him to let the quarrel alone, and he took my ad\dce. We parted on the best possible terms with our friend Shiute, and proceeded by om* former path to the village of his sister Nyamoana, who is now a mdow. She received us mth much apparent feeling, and said, " We had removed from our former abode to the place where you found us, and had no idea then that it was the spot where my husband was to die." She had come to the river Lofuje, as they never remain in a place where death has once visited them. We received the loan of five small canoes from her, and also one of those we had left here before, to proceed down the Leeba. After viewing the Coanza at Massangano, I thought the Leeba at least a third larger, and upwards of two hundred yards wide. We saw evidence of its rise during its last flood having been upwards of forty feet in perpendicular height ; but this is probably more than usual, as the amount of rain was above the average. My companions purchased also a number of canoes from the Balonda. These ai-e very small, and can carry only two persons. They are made quite thin and hght, and as sharp as racing-skiffs, because they are used in. hunting animals in the water. The price paid, was a string of beads equal to the length of the canoe. We advised them to bring canoes for sale to the Makololo, as they would gladly give them cows in exchange. In descending the Leeba we saw many herds of wild animals, especially the tahetsi (^Aigoceros equina), one magnificent ante- lope, the putokuane {Antilope niger), and two fine Hons. The Balobale, however, are getting well suppHed with guns, and will soon thin out the large game. At one of the collages we were entreated to attack some buffaloes, which grazed in the gardens every night, and destroyed the manioc. As we had had no success in shooting at the game we had seen, and we aU longed to have a meal of meat, we followed the footprints of a number of old bulls. They showed a great amount of cunning, by selecting the densest parts of very closely-planted forests, to stand or rechne in during the day. We came witliin six yards of them several times before we knew that they were so near. We only heard them rush away among the crashing branches, catcliing only a gHmpse of them. It was somewhat exciting to feel, as we trod Chap. XXIV. FROGS AND TOADS. 487 on the diy leaves with stealthy steps, that, for anytliing we knew, we might next moment be charged by one of the most dangerous beasts of the forest. We threaded out their doublings for hours, drawn on by a keen craving for animal food, as we had been entirely without salt for upwards of two months, but never could get a shot. In passing along the side of water everywhere, except in Londa, green frogs spring out at your feet, and Kght in the water, as if taking a " header ;" and on the Leeambye and Chobe we have great numbers of small green frogs (Rana faseiata, Boie), which light on blades of grass with remarkable precision ; but on coming along the Leeba, I was struck by the sight of a light green toad about an inch long. The leaf might be nearly perpendicular, but it stuck to it like a fly. It was of the same size as the Brachymerus hi-fasciatus (Smith),* which I saw only once in the Bakwain country. Though smaU, it was hideous, being coloured jet-black, with vermilion spots. Before reaching the Makondo rivulet, latitude 13° 23' 12" S., -we came upon the tsetse in such numbers, that many bites were inflicted on my poor ox, in spite of a man with a branch warding them off. The bite of tliis insect does not affect the donkey as it * The discovery of this last species is thus mentioned by that accomplished naturalist, Dr. Smith : " On the banks of the Limpopo river, close to the tropic of Capricorn, a massive tree was cut down to obtain wood to repair a waggon. The workman, while sawing the trunk longitudinally nearly along its centre, remarked, on reaching a certain point, ' It is hollow, and will not answer the purpose for which it is wanted.' He persevered, however, and when a division into equal halves was effected, it was discovered that the saw in its course had crossed a large hole in which were five specimens of the species just described, each about an inch in length. Every exertion was made to discover a means of communication between the external air and the cavity, but without success. Every part of the latter was probed with the utmost care, and water was kept in each half for a considerable time, without any passing into the wood. The inner surface of the cavity was black, as if charred, and so was likewise the adjoining wood for half an inch from the cavity. The tree, at the part where the latter existed, was 19 inches in diameter, the length of the trunk was 18 feet. The age, which was observed at the time, I regret to say does not appear to be noted. When the Batrachia above mentioned were discovered, they appeared inanimate, but the influence of a warm sun to which they were subjected, soon imparted to them a moderate degree of vigour. In a few hours from the time they were liberated, they were tolerably active, and able to move from place to place apparently with great ease." 488 THE "KASENDI." Chap. XXIV. does cattle. The next morning, the spots on which my ox had been bitten, were marked by patches of hair, about half an inch broad, being wetted by exudation. Poor Sinbad had carried me all the way from the Leeba to Golungo Alto, and all the way back again, without losing any of his pecuharities, or ever be- coming reconciled to our perversity, in forcing him away each morning from the pleasant pasturage on which he had fed. I wished to give the cKmax to his usefulness, and allay our craving for animal food at the same time, but, my men having some com- punction, we carried him to end his days in peace at Nahele. Having despatched a message to our old friend Manenko, we • waited a day opposite her village, which was about fifteen miles from the river. Her husband was instantly despatched to meet us, with, liberal presents of food, she being unable to travel in consequence of a burn on the foot. Sambanza gave us a detailed account of the political affairs of the country, and of KoKmbota's evil doings, and next morning performed the ceremony called Kasendi,'' for cementing our fiiendship. It is accomplished thus : — The hands of the parties are joined (in tliis case Pitsane and Sambanza were the parties engaged) ; small incisions are made on the clasped hands ; on the pits of the stomach of each ; and on the right cheeks and foreheads. A small quantity of blood is taken off from these points in both parties by means of a stalk of grass. The blood fi'om one person is put into one pot of beer, and that of the second into another ; each then drinks the other's blood, and they are supposed to become perpetual friends or relations. During the drinking of the beer, some of the party continue beating the ground with short clubs, and utter sentences by way of ratifying the treaty. The men belonging to each, then finish the beer. The principals in the performance of " Kasendi " are henceforth considered blood-relations, and are bound to disclose to each other any impending evil. If Sekeletu should resolve to attack the Balonda, Pitsane would be under obHgation to give Sambanza warning to escape, and so on the other side. They now presented each other with the most valu- able presents they had to bestow. Sambanza walked off with Pitsane's suit of green-baize faced mtli red, wliich had been made in Loanda ; and Pitsane, besides abundant supphes of food, obtained two shells similar to that I had received from Sliinte. Chap. XXIV. SOCIAL CONDITION OF TRIBES. 489 On one occasion I became blood-relation to a young woman by- accident. She had a large cartilaginous tumour between the bones of the fore-arm, which, as it gradually enlarged, so dis- tended the muscles as to render her unable to work. She applied to me to excise it. I requested her to bring her husband, if he were willing to have the operation performed, and, while removing the tumour, -one of the small arteries squirted some blood into my eye. She remarked, when I was -shaping the blood out of it, " You were a friend before, now you are a blood-relation ; and when you pass this way, always send me word, that I may cook food for you." In creating these friendships, my men had the full inten- tion of returning ; each one had his Molekane {friend) in every village of the friendly Balonda. Mohorisi even manied a "wife in the town of Katema, and Pitsane took another in the toTMi of Shinte. These alliances were looked upon with great favour by the Balonda chiefs, as securing the goodwill of the Makololo. In order that the social condition of the tribes may be under- stood by the reader, I shall mention that, while waiting for Sam- banza, a party of Barotse came from Nyenko, the former residence of Limboa, who had lately crossed the Leeba on his way towards Masiko. The head-man of this party had brought Limboa's son to his father, because the Barotse at Nyenko had, since the de- parture of Limboa, elected Nananko, another son of Santuru, in his stead ; and our visitor, to whom the boy had been intrusted as a guardian, thinking him to be in danger, fled with liim to his father. The Barotse, whom Limboa had left behind at Nyenko, on proceeding to elect Nananko, said, " No, it is quite too much for Limboa to rule over two places." I would have gone to visit Limboa and Masiko too, in order to prevent hostihties, but the state of my ox would not allow it. I therefore sent a message to Limboa by some of his men, protesting against war with his brother, and giving liim formal notice that the path up the Leeba had been given to us by the Balonda, the owners of the country, and that no attempt must ever be made to obstruct free intercourse. On leaving this place we were deserted by one of our party, Mboenga, an Ambonda man, who had accompanied us all the way to Loanda and back. His father was living with Masiko, and it was natural for him to wish to join his own family again. 490 WATER-TUETLES. Chap. XXIY. He went off honestly, with the exception of taking a fine " tari " sldn given me by Nyamoana, but he left a parcel of giin-fliats which he liad carried for me all the way from Loanda. I re- gretted parting with liim thus, and sent notice to liim that he need not have run away, and if he wished to come to Sekeletu agaia, he would be welcome. We subsequently met a large party of Barotse fleeing in the same direction, but when I represented to them that there was a probability of their being sold as slaves in Londa, and none in the country of Sekeletu, they concluded to return. The grievance wliich the Barotse most feel, is being obliged to live with Sekeletu at Linyanti, where there is neither fish nor fowl, nor any other kind of food, equal in quantity to what they enjoy in their own fat valley. A short distance below the confluence of the Leeba and Lee- ambye, we met a number of hunters belonging to the tribe called Mambowe, who Kve under Masiko. They had dried flesh of hippopotami, buffaloes, and alligators. They stalk the animals by using the stratagem of a cap made of the skin of a leche's or poku's head, having the horns still attached, and another made so as to represent the upper wliite part of the crane called jabiru {Mycteru Senegalensis), with its long neck and beak above. With these on, they crawl through the grass ; they can easily put up their heads so far as to see their prey without being recognised until they are within bowshot. They presented me with three fine water-tm-tles,* one of which, when cooked, had upwards of forty eggs in its body. The shell of the egg is flexible, and it is of the same size at both ends, like those of the aUigator. The flesh, and especially the Hver, is excellent. The hunters informed us, that when the message inculcating peace among the tribes came to Masiko, the common people were so glad at the prospect of "binding up the spears," that they ran to the river, and bathed and plunged in it for joy. This party had been sent by Masiko to the Makololo for aid to repel their enemy, but, afraid to go thither, had spent the time in hunting. They have a dread of the Makololo, and hence the joy they expressed when peace was * It is probably a species allied to the Sternotherus sinuatus of Dr. Smith, as it has no disagreeable smell. This variety annually leaves the water with so much regularity for the deposit of its eggs, that the natives decide on the time of sowing their seed by its appearance. l UAP. XXIV. CHARGE OF A BUFFALO. 491 proclaimed. The Mambowe hunters were much alarmed until my name was mentioned. They then joined our party, and on the following day discovered a liippopotamus dead, which they had previously wounded. Tliis was the first feast of flesh my men had enjoyed, for, though the game was wonderfully abundant, I had quite got out of the way of shooting, and missed perpetually. Once I went with the determination of gettuig so close that I should not miss a zebra. . We went along one of the branches that stretch out from the river, in a small canoe, and two men, stooping down as low as they could, paddled it slowly along to an open space near to a herd of zebras and pokus. Peering over the edge of the canoe, the open space seemed like a patch of wet ground, such as is often seen on the banlvs of a river, made smooth as the resting- place of alligators. When we came witliin a few yards of it, we found by the precipitate plunging of the reptile, that this was a large aUigator itself. Although I had been most carefid to approach near enough, I unfortunately only broke the hind leg of a zebra. My two men pursued it, but the loss of a liind leg does not prevent this animal from a gallop. As I walked slowly after the men on an extensive plain covered with a gi'eat crop of grass, which was laid by its o^vn weight, I observed that a sohtary buffalo, disturbed by others of my own party, was coming to me at a gallop. I glanced aromid, but the only tree on the plain was a hundred yards off, and there was no escape elsewhere. I therefore cocked my rifle, with the intention of giving him a steady shot in the forehead, Avhen he should come witliin three or four yards of me. The thought flashed across my mind, " What if your gun misses fire ?" I placed it to my shoulder as he came on at full speed, and that is tremendous, though generally he is a lumbering-looking animal in his paces. A small bush, and bunch of grass fifteen yards off, made him swerve a little, and exposed his shoulder. I just heard the ball crack there, as I fell flat on my face. The pain must have made him renounce liis purpose, for he bounded close past me on to the water, where he was found dead. In expressing my thankfulness to God among my men, they were much offended with themselves for not being present to sliield me from this danger. The tree near me was a camel-thorn, and reminded me that we had come back to the land of thorns again, for the country we had left is one of evergreens. 492 RECEPTION AT LIBONTA. Chap. XXIV. July 21th. — We reached the iovm. of Libonta, and were re- ceived with demonstrations of joy such as I had never witnessed before. The women came forth to meet us, making their curious dancing gestures, and loud lulliloos. Some carried a mat and stick, in imitation of a spear and shield. Others rushed forward and kissed the hands and cheeks of the different persons of their acquaintance among us, raising such a dust that it was quite a rehef to get to the men assembled and sitting mth proper African decorum in the kotla. We were looked upon as men risen from the dead, for the most skilful of their diviners had pronounced us to have perished long ago. After many expressions of joy at meeting, I arose, and, thanking them, explained the causes of our long delay, but left the report to be made by their own country- men. Formerly I had been the chief speaker, now I would leave the task of speaking to them. Pitsane then dehvered a speech of upwards of an hour in length, giving a highly flattering picture of the whole journey, of the kindness of the white men in general, and of Mr. Gabriel in particular. He concluded by saying that I had done more for them than they expected ; that I had not only opened up a path for them to the other white men, but conciHated all the cliiefs along the route. The oldest man present, rose and answered this speech, and, among other things, alluded to the disgust I felt at the Makololo for engaging in marauding expeditions against Lechulatebe and Sebolamak- waia, of which we had heard from the first persons we met, and which my companions most energetically denounced as "mashue hela," entirely bad. He entreated me not to lose heart, but to reprove Sekeletu as my child. Another old man followed with the same entreaties. The following day we ob- served as our thanksgiving to God for his goodness in bringing us all back in safety to our friends. My men decked themselves out in their best, and I found that, although their goods were finished, they had managed to save suits of European clothing, which, being white, with their red caps, gave them rather a dashing appearance. They tried to walk like the soldiers they had seen in Loanda, and called themselves my " braves " (batla- bani). Duriug the service they all sat with their gims over their shoulders, and excited the unbounded admiration of the women and children. I addressed them all on the goodness of God in Chap. XXIV. KINDNESS OF THE PEOPLE. 493 preserving us from all the dangers of strange tribes and disease. We had a similar service in the afternoon. The men gave us two fine oxen for slaughter, and the women suppKed us abun- dantly with milk, meal, and butter. It was aU quite gratuitous, and I felt ashamed that I could make no return. My men ex- plained the total expenditure of our means, and the Libontese answered gracefully, " It does not matter ; you have opened a path for us, and we shaU have sleep." Strangers came flocking from a distance, and seldom empty-handed. Their presents I distributed amongst my men. Our progress down the Barotse valley was just Hke this. Every village gave us an ox, and sometimes two. The people were wonderfully kind. I felt, and still feel, most deeply grateful, and tried to benefit them in the only way I could, by imparting the knowledge of that Saviour, who can comfort and supply them in the time of need, and my prayer is, that he may send his good Spirit to instruct them and lead them into his kingdom. Even now, I earnestly long to return, and make some recompense to them for their kindness. In passing them on our way to the north, their Hberahty might have been sup- posed to be influenced by the hope of repayment on our return, for the white man's land is imagined to be the source of every ornament they prize most. But though we set out from Loanda ^\ith a considerable quantity of goods, hoping both to pay our way through the stingy Chiboque, and to make presents to the kind Balonda, and stiU more generous Makololo, the many delays caused by sickness made us expend all my stock, and all the goods my men procured by their own labour at Loanda, and we returned to the Makololo as poor as when we set out. Yet no distrust was shown, and my poverty did not lessen my in- fluence. They saw that I had been exerting myself for their benefit alone, and even my men remarked, " Though we return as poor as we went, we have not gone in vain." They began immediately to collect tusks of liippopotami and other ivory for a second journey. 494 COLONY OF BIRDS. Chap. XXV. CHAPTEK XXV. Colony of birds called Linkololo — The village of Chitlane — Murder of Mpo- lolo's daughter — Execution of murderer and his wife — My companions find that their wives have married other husbands — Sunday — A party from Masiko — Freedom of speech — Canoe struck b}- a hippopotamus — Gonye — Appearance of trees at the end of winter — Murky atmosphere — Surprising amount of organic life — Hornets — The packages forwarded by Mr. Moffat — Makololo suspicions and reply to the Matebele who brought them — Convey the goods to an island and build a hut over them — Ascertain that Sir R. Murchison had recognised the true form of African continent — Arrival at Linyanti — A grand picho — Shrewd inquiry — Sekeletu in his uniform — A trading party sent to Loanda with ivory — Mr. Gabriel's kindness to them — DitEculties in trading — Two Makololo forays during our absence — Report of the country to the N.E. — Death of influential men — The Makololo desire to be nearer the market — Opinions upon a change of residence — Climate of Barotse valley — Dis- eases — Author's fevers not a fair criterion in the matter — The interior an inviting field for the philanthropist — Consultations about a path to the east coast — Decide on descending north bank of Zambesi — Wait for the rainy season — Native way of spending time during period of greatest heat — Favourable opening for missionary enterj^rise — Ben Habib wishes to marry — A maiden's choice — Sekeletu's hospitality — Sulphuretted hydrogen and malaria — Conversations with Makololo — Their moral cha- racter and conduct — Sekeletu wishes to purchase a sugar-mill, &c. — The donkeys — Influence among the natives — " Food fit for a chief" — Parting words of Mamire — Motibe's excuses. On the 31st of July we parted with our kmd Libonta friends. We planted some of our pahn-tree seeds m different \allages of this valley. They began to sprout even wliile we were there, but, unfortunately, they were always destroyed by the mice which swarm in every hut. At Chitlane's \Tllage, we collected the young of a colony of the linkololo { Anastomus lamalligerus), a black, long-legged bird, somewhat larger than a crow, wliich Kves on shellfish {Ampullaria), and breeds in society at certain locahties among the reeds. These places are well known, as they contmue there from year to year, and belong to the chiefs, who at particular times of the year gather most of the young. The produce of this " harvest," as they call it, which Chap. XXV. CHITLANE'S VILLAGE. 495 was presented to me, was a hundred and seventy-five unfledged birds. Tliey had been rather late in collecting them, in conse- quence of waiting for the arrival of Mpololo, who acts the part of chief, but gave them to me, knowing that this would be pleasmg to liim, otlierwise tliis colony would have }delded double the amount. The old ones appear along the Leeambye in vast flocks, and look lean and scraggy. The young are very fat, and when roasted are esteemed one of the dainties of the Barotse valley. In presents of this kind, as well as of oxen, it is a sort of feast of joy, the person to whom they are presented haiing the honour of distributing the materials of the feast. We generally slaughtered every ox at the village where it was presented, and then om* friends and we rejoiced together. The village of Chitlane is situated, like all others in the Barotse vaUey, on an eminence, over wliich floods do not rise ; but this last year, the water approached nearer to an entire submergence of the whole vaUey, than has been known in the memory of man. Great nimibers of people were now suffering from sickness, wliich always prevails when the waters are drying up ; and I found much demand for the medicines I had brought from Loanda. The great variation of the temperature each day, must have a trying effect upon the health. At this viUage there is a real Indian banian- tree, which has spread itself over a considerable space by means of roots from its branches ; it has been termed in consequence " the tree with legs " (more oa maotu). It is curious that trees of this family are looked upon with veneration, and all the way from the Barotse to Loanda, are thought to be preservatives from evil. On reaching Naliele on the 1st of August, we foimd Mpololo in great affliction on account of the death of his daughter and her child. She had been lately confined ; and her father natu- rally remembered her when an ox was slaughtered, or when the tribute of other food, wliich he receives in Heu of Sekeletu, came in his way, and sent frequent presents to her. Tliis moved the envy of one of the Makololo who hated Mpololo, and, wishing to vex him, he entered the daughter's hut by night, and strangled both her and her child. He then tried to make fii*e in the hut and burn it, so that the murder might not be known ; but the squeaking noise of rubbing the sticks awakened a servant, and 496 MESSAGE FEOM MASIKO. Chap. XXV. the murderer was detected. Both he and his wife were throTvn into the river ; the latter having " known of her husband's intentions, and not reveahng them." She declared she had dis- suaded him from the crime, and, had any one interposed a word, she might have been spared. Mpololo exerted himself in every way to supply us with other canoes, and we left Shinte's with him. The Mambowe were well received, and departed with friendly messages to their chief Masiko. My men were exceedingly dehghted with the cordial reception we met with everywhere ; but a source of annoyance was found where it was not expected. Many of their wives had married other men during our two years' absence. Mashauana's wife, who had borne him two children, was among the number. He wished to appear not to feel it much, saying, " Why, wives are as plentiful as grass, and I can get another : she may go ;" but he would add, " If I had that fellow, I would open his ears for him." As most of them had more wives than one, I tried to console them by saying that they had still more than I had, and that they had enough yet ; but they felt the reflection to be galling, that while they were toiling, another had been devouring their corn. Some of their mves came with very young infants in their arms. This excited no discontent ; and for some, I had to speak to the cliief, to order the men, who had married the only wives some of my companions ever had, to restore them. Sunday, August bth. — A large audience h'stened most attentively to my morning address. Surely some will remember the ideas conveyed, and pray to our merciful Father, who would never have thought of Him but for tliis visit. The invariably kind and respectful treatment I have received from these, and many other heathen tribes ia tliis central country, together with the attentive observations of many years, have led me to the behef that, if one exerts himself for their good, he will never be ill treated. There may be opposition to his doctrine, but none to the man himself. While still at Nahele, a party wliich had been sent after me by Masiko arrived. He was much disappointed, because I had not visited him. They brought an elephant's tusk, two calabashes of honey, two baskets of maize, and one of ground-nuts, as a present. Masiko wished to say that he had followed the injunction which I had given, as the will of God, and hved in peace until his .Chap. XXY. FREEDOM OF SPEECH. 497 brother Limboa came, captured his women as tliey went to their gardens, and then appeai-ed before liis stockade. ]\IasilvO offered to lead his men out ; but they objected, sajTQg, " Let us servants be killed ; you must not be slain." Those who said tliis were young Barotse, who had been drilled to fighting by Sebituane, and used shields of ox-hide. They beat off the party of Limboa, ten beiag wounded, and ten slain in the engagement. Limboa subsequently sent tliree slaves, as a self-imposed fine to Masiko for attacking him. I succeeded in getting the Makololo to treat the messengers of Masiko well, though, as they regarded them as rebels, it was somewhat agamst the 'grain at first to speak ci^Tlly to them. Mpololo, attempting to justify an opposite line of conduct, told me how they had fled from Sebituane, even though he had given them numbers of cattle after their subjection by his arms, and was rather surprised to find that I was disposed to think more highly of them for having asserted their independence, even at the loss of milk. For this food, all who ha^ e been accustomed to it from infancy in Africa, have an excessive longing. I pointed out how they might be mutually beneficial to each other by the exchange of canoes and cattle. There are some yery old Barotse H^ing here, who were the companions of the old cliief Santuru. These men, protected by their age, were very free in their comments on the " upstart " Makololo. One of them, for instance, interrupted my conversation one day with some Makololo gentlemen, with the. advice " not to beheve them, for they were only a set of thieves ;" and it was taken in quite a good-natured way. It is remarkable that none of the ancients here had any tradition of an earthquake having occurred in tliis region. Their quick perception of events recognisable by the senses, and retentiveness of memor}^, render it probable, that no perceptible movement of the earth has taken place between 7° and 27° S. in the centre of the continent, during the last two cen- turies at least. There is no appearance of recent fracture or dis- turbance of rocks to be seen in the central countn^ except the falls of Gronye. Nor is there any evidence, or tradition of hmTicanes. I left Nahele on the 13th of August, and when proceeding along the shore at mid-day, a hippopotamus struck the canoe with her forehead, lifting one half of it quite out of the water, so as nearly to overturn it. The force of the butt she gave, tilted 2 K 498 GONYE— END OF WINTEE. Chap. XXV. Mashauana out into the river : the rest of us sprang to the shore, which was only about ten yards off. Glancing back, I saw her come to the surface a short way off, and look to the canoe, as if to see if she had done much miscliief. It was a female, whose young one had been speared the day before. No damage was done, except wetting person and goods. This is so imusual an occm-rence, when the precaution is taken to coast along the shore, that my men exclaimed, " Is the beast mad ?" There were eight of us in the canoe at the time, and the shake it received, shows the immense power of this animal in the water. On reaching Gonye, Mokwala the head-man having presented me with a tusk, I gave it to Pitsane, as he was eagerly collecting ivory for the Loanda market. The rocks of Gonye are reddish gTey sandstone, nearly horizontal, and perforated by madrepores, the holes showing the course of the insect in different directions. The rock itself has been impregnated mth iron, and that hardened, forms a glaze on the surface — an appearance common to many of the rocks of tliis country. August 22nd. — Tliis is the end of winter. The trees which line the banks begin to bud and blossom ; and there is some show of the influence of the new sap, which will soon end in buds that push off the old foKage by assuming a very bright orange colour. Tliis orange is so bright that I mistook it for masses of yeUow blossom. There is every variety of shade in the leaves, yeUow, purple, copper, hver-colour, and even inky black. Having got the loan of other canoes from Mpololo, and three oxen as provision for the way, which made the number we had been presented with in the Barotse valley amount to thirteen, we proceeded doTMi the river towards Sesheke, and were as much struck as formerly mth tlie noble river. The whole scenery is lovely, though the atmosphere is mm-ky in consequence of the continuance of the smoky tinge of winter. This peculiar tinge of the atmosphere was observed eveiy winter at Kolobeng, but it was not so observable in Londa as in the south, though I had always considered that it was owing to the extensive bm-nings of the gi-ass, in which hundreds of miles of pasturage are annually consumed. As the quantity bm-nt in tlie north is very much greater than in the south, and the smoky- tinge of Avinter was not observed, some other explanation than Chap. XXV. HORNETS. 499 these burnings must be sought for. I have sometimes imagined that the lowering of the temperatm^e in the winter, rendered the vapour in the upper current of air visible, and imparted this hazy- appearance. The amount of organic life is sm-prising. At the time the river begins to rise, the Ibis religiosa comes down in flocks of fifties, with prodigious numbers of other water-fowl. Some of the sandbanlis appear wliitened during the day with flocks of peK- cans — I once coimted tln-ee hundred ; others are brown with ducks (^Anas histrionica) — I got fourteen of these by one shot ( Querquedula Hottentot a, Smith), and other kinds. Great numbers of gulls {Procellaria turtur, Smith), and several others, float over the smface. The vast quantity of small birds, which feed on insects, show that the river teems also with specimens of mmute organic life. In walking among bushes on the banks, we are occasionally stung by a hornet which makes its nest in form like that of our own wasp, and hangs it on the branches of trees. The breeding aro^y-n is so strong in tliis insect, that it pm-sues any one twenty or thirty yards who happens to brush too closely past its nest. The sting, which it tries to inflict near the eye, is more like a discharge of electricity from a powerful machine, or a violent blow, than aught else. It produces momentary insen- sibility, and is followed by the most pungent pain. Yet tliis insect is quite timid when away from its nest. It is named Mm'o- tuani by the Bechuanas. We have tsetse between Nameta and Sekhosi. An insect of prey, about an inch in length, long-legged and gaunt-looking, may be observed flying about and hghting upon the bare ground. It is a tiger in its way, for it springs upon tsetse and other flies, and, sucking out their blood, throws the bodies aside. Long before reaclung Sesheke, we had been informed that a party of Matebele, the people of Mosilekatse, had brought some packages of goods for me to the south bank of the river, near the Victoria Falls, and though they declared that they had been sent by Mr. Moffat, the Makololo had refused to credit the state- ment of then' sworn enemies. They imagined that the parcels were directed to me as a mere trick, whereby to place witch- craft-medicine into the hands of the Makololo. When the Mate- bele on the south bank called to the Makololo on the north to 2 K 2 500 DISCOVERY FORESTALLED. Chap. XXV. come over in canoes, and receive the goods sent by Moffat to *'Nake," the Makololo replied, "Go along with you, we know better than that; how could he tell Moffat to send liis things here, he having gone away to the north?" The Matebele answered, " Here are the goods ; we place them now before you, and if you leave them to perish, the guilt Avill be yours." When they had departed, the Makololo thought better of it, and, after much divination, went over vdth fear and trembling, and carried the packages carefully to an island in the middle of the stream ; then, building a hut over them to protect them from the weather, they left them; and there I found they had remamed from September, 1854, tiU September, 1855, in perfect safety. Here, as I had often experienced before, I found the news was very old, and had lost much of its interest by keeping, but there were some good eatables from Mrs. Moffat. Amongst other things, I discovered that my friend. Sir Roderick Murchison, wdiile in his study in London, had amved at the same conclusion respecting the form of the Afr^ican continent as I had lately come to, on the spot (see note p. 475) ; and that, from the attentive study of the geological map of Mr. Bain and other materials, some of wliich were furnished by the discoveries of ^Ir. Oswell and myself, he had not only clearly enunciated the peculiar configuration as an hypothesis in his discom-se before the Geograpliical Society in 1852, but had even the assurance to send me out a copy for my information ! There was not much use in nm'sing my chagTin at being thus fairly " cut out," by the man who had foretold the existence of the AustraHan gold before its discovery, for here it was, in black and white. In liis easy- chair he had forestalled me by three years, though I had been working hard tlu-ough jimgle, marsh, and fever, and, since the light dawned on my mind at Dilolo, had been cherishing the pleasing delusion that I should be the fii-st to suggest the idea, that the interior of Afr'ica was a watery plateau of less elevation than flanking hilly ranges. Having waited a few days at Sesheke till the horses which we had left at Linyanti should arrive, we proceeded to that town, and found the waggon and everything we had left in November, 1853, perfectly safe. A grand meeting of aU the people was called to receive our report, and the articles which had been sent Chap. XXV. TRADING PARTY TO LOANDA. 501 by the governor and merchants of Loanda. I explained that none of these were my property, but that they were sent to show the friendly feelmgs of the white men, and then- eagerness to enter into commercial relations with the Makololo. I then requested my companions to give a true account of what they had seen. The wonderful thuigs lost nothing in the telling, the climax always bemg that they had finished the whole world, and had turned only when there was no more land. One ghb old gentleman asked — " Then you reached Ma Kobert (Mrs. L.) ? " They were obHged to. confess that she hved a little beyond the world! The presents were received with expressions of great satisfaction and dehght; and on Sunday, when Sekeletu made his appearance at church in liis uniform, it attracted more atten- tion than the sermon ; and the kind expressions they made use of respecting myself were so very flattering, that I felt inclined to shut my eyes. Their private opinion must have tallied with their public report, for I very soon received offers from volun- teers to accompany me to the east coast. They said they wished to be able to return and relate strange thmgs like my recent companions ; and Sekeletu immediately made arrangements with the Arab Ben-Habib to conduct a fresh party with a load of ivory to Loanda. These, he said, must go with liim and learn to trade : they were not to have anything to do in the disposal of the ivory, but simply look and learn. My companions were to remain and rest themselves, and then return to Loanda when the others had come home. Sekeletu consulted me as to sending presents back to the governor and merchants of Loanda, but, not possessing much confidence in tliis Arab, I advised him to send a present by Pitsane, as he knew who ought to receive it Since my amval in England, information has been received from Mr. Gabriel that this party had arrived on the west coast, but that the ivory had been disposed of to some Portuguese mer- chants in the interior, and the men had been obliged to carry it down to Loanda. They had not been introduced to Mr. Gabriel, but that gentleman, havuig learnt that they were in the city, went to them, and pronounced the names Pitsane, Mashauana, when all started up and crowded round him. When Mr. G. obtamed an interpreter, he learned that they had been ordered by Sekeletu to be sure and go to my brother, as he termed laim. 502 DIFFICULTIES IN TRADING. Chap. XXV. Mr. G. behaved in the same liberal manner as lie bad done to my companions, and they departed for tbeir distant home, after bidding him a formal and affectionate adieu. It was to be expected that they would be imposed upon in their first attempt at trading, but I beheve that this could not be so easily repeated. It is, however, unfortunate that in dealing Avith the natives in the interior, there is no attempt made at the esta- blishment of fair prices. The trader shows a quantity of goods, the native asks for more, and more is given. The native, being ignorant of the value of the goods or of liis ivory, tries what another demand vnJl bring. After some haggling, an addition is made, and that bargain is concluded to the satisfaction of both parties. Another trader comes, and perhaps offers more than the first; the customary demand for an addition is made, and he yields. The natives by tliis time are beginning to beheve that the more they ask, the more they -^ill get: they continue to lu-ge, the trader bursts into a rage, and the trade is stopped, to be renewed next day by a higher offer. The natives natwally conclude that they were right the day before, and a most dis- agreeable commercial intercourse is estabhshed. A great amoimt of time is spent in concluding these bargains. In other parts, it is quite common to see the natives going from one trader to another, till they have finished the whole collage ; and some give presents of brandy to tempt their custom. Much of this unpleasant state of feeling between natives and Europeans, results from the commencements made by those who were ignorant of the language, and from the want of education being given at the same time. Dm-ing the time of our absence at Loanda, the Makololo had made two forays, and captm^ed large herds of cattle. One, to the lake, was in order to punish Lechulatebe for the insolence he had manifested after procuring some fii-e-arms ; and the other to Sebola Makwaia, a chief Kving far to the N.E. This was most unjustifiable, and had been condemned by all the influential Makololo. Ben-Habib, however, had, in coming from Zanzibar, visited Sebola Makwaia, and found that the chief town was go- verned by an old woman of that name. She received him kindly, and gave him a large quantity of magnificent lYorj, sufiicient to set him up as a trader, at a very small cost ; but, liis party having discharged theii' gims, Ben-Habib observed that the female cliief Chap. XXV. DEATH OF INFLUENTIAL MEN. 503 and her people were extremely alarmed, and would have fled and left their cattle in a panic, had he not calmed their fears. Ben- Habib informed the uncle of Sekeletu that he could easily guide him thither, and he might get a large number of cattle without any difficulty. This uncle advised Sekeletu to go ; and, as the only greatness he knew, was imitation of his father's deeds, he went, but was not so successful as was anticipated. Sebola Maksvaia had fled on hearing of the approach of the Makololo ; and, as the country is marshy and intersected in every direction by rivers, they could not easily pursue her. They captured canoes, and, pursuing up different streams, came to a small lake called "Shuia." Having entered the Loangwa, flowing to the eastward, they found it advisable to retm-n, as the natives in those parts became more warlike the fm-ther they went in that direc- tion. Before turnuig, the Arab pouited out an elevated ridge in the distance, and said to the IMakololo, " Wien we see that, we always know that we are only ten or fifteen days from the sea." On seeing liim afterwards, he informed me that on the same ridge, but much further to the north, the Banyassa hved, and that the rivers flowed from it towards the S.W. He also confii-med the other Arab's account that the Loapula, wliich he Imd crossed at the town of Cazembe, flowed ia the same direction, and into the Leeambye. Several of the influential Makololo who had engaged in these marauduig expeditions, had died before our arrival, and Nokwane had succumbed to his strange disease. Eamosantane had perislied tlu'ough vomiting blood from over-fatigue in the march, and Lerimo was affected by a leprosy pecuhar to the Barotse valley. In accordance with the ad\4ce of my Libonta friends, I did not faU to reprove " my child Sekeletu " for his marauding. This was not done in an angry manner, for no good is ever achieved by fierce denunciations. Motibe, his father-in-law, said to me, " Scold him much, but don't let others hear you." .The Makololo expressed gTcat satisfaction with the route we had opened up to the west, and soon after om- arrival a " picho " was called, in order to discuss tlie question of removal to the Barotse vaUey, so that they might be nearer the market. Some of the older men objected to abandoning the Hue of defence afforded by the rivers Chobe and Zambesi, against their southern 504 CLIMATE — DISEASES. Chap. XXV. enemies the Matebele. The Makololo generally have an aversion to the Barotse yalley, on account of the fevers Avhich are annually engendered in it as the waters dry up. They prefer it only as a cattle station, for, though the herds are frequently thinned by an epidemic disease (j)eripneumonia\ they breed so fast, that the losses are soon made good. Wherever else the Makololo go, they always leave a portion of their stock in the charge of herdsmen in that prolific valley. Some of the younger men objected to removal, because the rankness of the grass at the Barotse did not allow of their running fast, and because there " it never becomes cooL" Sekeletu at last stood up, and, addressing me, said, "I am perfectly satisfied as to the great advantages for trade of the path which you have opened, and think that we ought to go to the Barotse, in order to make the way from us to Loanda shorter ; but with whom am I to Uve there ? If you were coming with us, I would remove to-morrow, but now you are going to the white man's country to bring Ma Kobert, and when you return, you will find me near to the spot on which you wish to dwell." I had then no idea that any healthy spot existed in the country, and thought only of a convenient central situation, adapted for intercom'se with the adjacent tribes and with the coast, such as that near to the confluence of the Leeba and Leeambye. The fever is certainly a drawback to this otherwise important missionary field. The great humidity produced by heavy rains and inundations, the exuberant vegetation caused by fervid heat in rich moist soil, and the prodigious amount of decaying vegetable matter, annually exposed after the inundations to the rays of a torrid sun, with a flat surface often covered by forest through which the winds cannot pass, all combine to render the climate far from salubrious for any portion of the human family. But the fever, thus caused and rendered virulent, is ahnost the only disease prevalent in it. There is no consumption or scrofula, and but httle insanity. Smallpox and measles visited the country some thirty years ago and cut ofi" many, but they have since made no return, although the former has been almost constantly in one part or another of the coast. Singularly enough, the people used inoculation for this disease; and in one village, where they seem to have chosen a malignant case Chap. XXV. FIELD FOR THE PHILANTHROPIST. 505 from which to inoculate the rest, nearly the whole village was cut off. I have seen but one case of hydrocephalus, a few of epilepsy, none of cholera or cancer, and many diseases common in England, are here quite unknown. It is true that I suffered severely from fever, but my experience cannot be taken as a fair criterion in the matter. Compelled to sleep on the damp ground montli after month, exposed to drencliing showers, and getting the lower extremities wetted two or three times every day, living on native food (with the exception of sugarless coffee, dm-ing the journey to the north and the latter half of the return journey), and that food the manioc-roots and meal, which contain so much uncombined starch that the eyes become affected (as in the case of animals fed for experiment on pure gluten or starch), and being exposed duriug many hours each day in comparative inaction to the direct rays of the sun, the thermometer standing above 96^ in the shade — these constitute a more pitiful hygiene than any missionaries who may follow will ever have to endure. I do not mention these privations as if I considered them to be " sacrifices for I think that the word ought never to be appKed to anything we can do for Him, who came down from heaven and died for us ; but I suppose it is necessary to notice them, in order that no unfavourable opinion may be formed fr'om my experience as to what that of others miglit be, if less exposed to the vicissitudes of the weather and change of diet. I beheve that the interior of this country presents a much more inviting field for the philantliropist than does the west coast, where missionaries of the Church Missionary, United Presbyterian, and other societies, have long laboured with most astonishing devotedness and never-flagging zeal. There the fevers are much more vfrulent and more speedily fatal than here ; for from 8° south they almost invariably take the intermittent or least fatal type ; and their effect being to enlarge the spleen, a complaint which is best treated by change of chmate, we have the remedy at hand by passing the 20th parallel on om- way south. But I am not to be understood as intimating that any of the numerous tribes are anxious for instruction : they are not the inqufring spirits we read of in other countries ; they do not deshe the gospel, because they know nothing about either it, or its benefits; but there is no impediment in the way of instruction. Every head-man would be 506 PATH TO THE EAST COAST. Chap. XXV. proud of a European visitor or resident in his territory, and there is perfect security for Hfe and property all over the interior country. The great barriers which have kept Africa shut are the unliealtliiness of the coast, and the exclusive, illiberal disposi- tion of the border tribes. It has not within the historic period been cut into, by deep arms of the sea, and only a small fringe of its population have come into contact with the rest of mankind. Kace has much to do in the present circumstances of nations ; yet it is probable that the unhealthy coast-climate has reacted on the people, and aided both in perpetuating their own degradation, and preventing those more inland from having intercourse vdth. the rest of the world. It is to be hoped that these obstacles wiU be overcome by the more rapid means of locomotion possessed in the present age, if a good highway can become available from the coast into the interior. Having found it impracticable to open up a carriage-path to the west, it became a question as to wliich part of the east coast we should direct our steps. The Arabs had come from Zanzibar tlu'ough a peaceful country. They assured me that the powerful chiefs beyond the Cazembe on the N.E., viz. Moatutu, Moaroro, and Mogogo, chiefs of the tribes Batutu, Baroro, and Bagogo, would have no objection to my passing through their country. They described the population there, as located in small villages like the Balonda, and that no difficulty is experienced in. travelling amongst them. They mentioned also that, at a distance of ten days beyond Cazembe, their path ^dnds round the end of Lake Tanganyenka. But when they reach this lake a Httle to the north-west of its southern extremity, they find no difficulty in obtaining canoes to carry them over. They sleep on islands, for it is said to reqmre three days ia crossing, and may thus be forty or fifty miles broad. Here they punt the canoes the whole way, showing that it is shallow. There are many small streams m the path, and three large rivers. This then appeared to me to be the safest ; but my present object being a path adinittmg of water rather than land carriage, this route did not promise so much as that by way of the Zambesi or Leeambye. The Makololo knew all the country eastwards as far as the Kafue, from ha\ang Kved in former times near the confluence of that river with the Zambesi, and they all advised this path in preference to that by the way of Chap. XXY. PATH TO THE EAST COAST. 507 Zanzibar. The only difficulty that they assured me of was that in the falls of Yietoria. Some recommended my going to Sesheke, and crossing over in a N.E. direction to the Kafue, which is only six days distant, and descending that river to the Zambesi. Others recommended me to go on the south bank of the Zambesi imtil I had passed the falls, then get canoes and proceed farther down the river. All spoke strongly of the difficulties of travelling on the north bank, on account of the excessively broken and rocky nature of the country near the river on that side. And when Ponuane, who had lately headed a foray there, proposed that I should carry canoes along that side, tiH we reached the spot where the Leeambye becomes broad and placid again ; others declared that, from the difficulties he himself had experienced in forcing the men of his expedition to do this, they beheved that mine would be sure to desert me, if I attempted to impose such a task upon them. Another objection to travelling on either bank of the river, was the prevalence of the tsetse, which is so abundant, that the inliabitants can keep no domestic animals except goats. While pondering over these different paths, I could not help regretting my being alone. If I had enjoyed the company of my former companion, Mr. 0 swell, one of us miglit have taken the Zambesi, and the other gone by way of Zanzibar. The latter route was decidedly the easiest, because all the inland tribes were friendly, wliile the tribes in the direction of the Zambesi were inimical, and I should now be obhged to lead a party, which the Batoka of that country yiew as hostile invaders, tlii'ougli an enemy's land ; but as the prospect of permanent w^ater conveyance was good, I decided on going do^vn the Zambesi, and keeping on the north hank, because, in the map given by Bowdich, Tete, the farthest inland station of the Portuguese, is erroneously placed on that side. Being near the end of September, the rains were expected daily; the clouds were collecting, and the vrmd blew strongly from the east, but it was excessively hot. All the Makololo urged me strongly to remain till the ground should be cooled by the rains ; and as it was probable that I should get fever if I commenced my journey now, I resolved to wait. The parts of tlie country about 17° and 18° suffer from drought and become dusty. It is but the commencement of the humid region to the north, and partakes occasionally of the character of both the wet 508 BEN HABIB'S PROPOSAL. Chap. XXV. and dry regions. Some idea may be formed of tlie heat in October by the fact, that the thermometer (protected) stood, in the shade of my waggon, at 100° tlirough the day. It rose to 110° if unprotected from the wind, at dai'k it showed 89°, at 10 o'clock 80°, and then gradually sunk till sunrise, when it was 70°. That is usually the period of greatest cold in each twenty-four hours, in this region. The natives during the period of greatest heat keep in their huts, which are always pleasantly cool by day, but close and suffocating by night. Those who are able to afford it, sit guzzluig beer or boyaloa; the perspiration produced by copious draughts seems to give enjoyment, the evaporation causing a feeling of coolness. The attendants of the chief, on these occa- sions, keep up a continuous roar of bantering, raillery, laughing, and swearing. The dance is kept up, in the moonhght, till past midnight. The women stand clapping their hands continu- ously, and the old men sit adndringly, and say, "It is reaUy very fine ! " As crowds came to see me, I employed much of my time in conversation, that being a good mode of convepng in- struction. In the public meetings for worship the people listened very attentively, and behaved with more decorum than formerly. They really form a very inviting field for a missionary. Surely the oft-told tale of the goodness and love of our Heavenly Father, in giving up His o^ti Son to death for us sinners, wiU, by the power of His Holy Spirit, beget love in some of these heathen hearts. 1st October. — Before Ben Habib started for Loanda, he asked the daughter of Sebituane in mamage. This is the plan the Arabs adopt for gaining influence in a tribe, and they have been known to proceed thus cautiously to foim connections, and gi-adually gain so much influence, as to draw all the tribe over to their rehgion. I never heard of any persecution, although the Arabs with whom I came in contact seemed much attached to their rehgion. This daughter of Sebituane, named Manchunyane, was about twelve years of age. As I was the bosom friend of her father, I was sup- posed to have a voice in her disposal, and, on being asked, objected to her being taken away, we knew not wliither, and where we might never see her again. As her name imphes, she was only a little black, and, besides being as fair as any of the Arabs, had quite the Arab features ; but I have no doubt that Ben Habib wdU renew his suit more successfully on some other occasion. In Chap. XXY. A MAIDEN'S CHOICE. 509 these cases of marriage, the consent of the young women is seldom asked. A maidservant of Sekeletu, however, pronounced by the Makololo to be goodlooking, was at this time sought in mar- riage by five young men. Sekeletu, happening to be at my waggon when one of these preferred his suit, very coolly ordered aU five to stand in a row before the yoimg woman, that she might make her choice. Two refused to stand, apparently, because they could not brook the idea of a repulse, although willing enough to take her, if Sekeletu had acceded to their petition ^vithout refer- ence to her will. Tliree dandified fellows stood forth, and she unhesitatingly decided on taking one who was really the best looking. It was amusing to see the mortification exliibited on the black faces of the unsuccessfid candidates, while the spec- tators greeted them with a hearty laugh. During the w^hole of my stay with the Makololo, Sekeletu supphed my wants abundantly, appointing some cows to furnish me with milk, and, when he went out to hunt, sent home orders for slaughtered oxen to be given. That the food was not given in a niggardly spirit, may be inferred from the fact, that, when I pro- posed to depart on the 20th of October, he protested against my going off in such a hot sun. " Only wait," said he, " for the first shower, and then I will let you go." Tliis was reasonable, for the thermometer, placed upon a deal box in the sun, rose to 138°. It stood at 108^ in the shade by day, and 96° at sunset. If my experiments were correct, the blood of a European is of a higher temperature than that of an African. The bulb, held under my tongue, stood at 100°, under that of the natives, at 98°. There was much sickness in the town, and no wonder, for part of the water left by the inundation, still formed a large pond in the centre. Even the plains between Linyanti and Sesheke had not yet been freed from the waters of the inundation. They had risen higher than usual, and for a long time, canoes passed from the one place to the other, a distance of upwards of 120 miles, in nearly a straight Hne. We found many patches of stagnant water, which, w^hen distm-bed by our passing through them, evolved strong efflu\da of sulphm-etted hydrogen. At other times these spots exhibit an efflorescence of the nitrate of soda ; they also con- tain abundance of hme, probably from decaying vegetable matter, and from these may have emanate the malaria wliich caused f 510 CX)NYEESATIONS TOTH MAKOLOLO. Chap. XXV. the present sickness. I have often remarked this ejBfluYium in sickly spots, and cannot help beheying but that it has some con- nection with fever, though I am quite aware of Dr. MacWiUiams's unsuccessful efforts to discover sulphuretted hydrogen by the most deUcate tests, in the Niger expedition. I had plenty of employment, for, besides attending to the severer cases, I had perpetual calls on my attention. The tovm contained, at least, 7000 inliabitants, and every one thought that he might come, and at least look at me. In talking mth some of the more intelligent in the evenings, the conversation ha\'ing turned from inquiries respecting echpses of the sun and moon to that other world where Jesus reigns, they let me know that my attempts to enlighten them had not been without some small effect. " Many of the cliildren," said they, " talk about the strange things you bring to their ears, but the old men show a Httle opposition by saying, ^ Do we know what he is talking about ? ' " Ntlaria and others, complain of treacherous memories, and say, "\^^en we hear words about other things, we hold them fast ; but when we hear you tell much more wonderful tilings than any we have ever heard before, we don't know how it is, they run away from our hearts." These are the more intelligent of my Makololo friends. On the majority, the teaching produces no appreciable effect ; they assent to the truth with the most perplexing indifference, adding, "But we don't know," or, "We do not understand." My medical intercourse wdth them enabled me to ascertain their moral status, better than a mere religious teacher could do. They do not attempt to hide the evil, as men often do, from then- spiritual instructors ; but I have found it difficult to come to a conclusion on their character. They sometimes perform actions remarkably good, and sometimes as strangely the opposite. I have been imable to ascertain the motive for the good, or account for the callousness of conscience with which they perpetrate the bad. After long observation, I came to the conclusion that they are just, such a strange mixture of good and e\il, as men are everywhere else. There is not among them an approach to that constant stream of benevolence flowing from the rich to the poor wliich we have in England, nor yet the unostentatious attentions which we have among our own poor to each other. Yet there are frequent instances of genuine kindness and HberaHty, as well as actions of Chap. XXV. THEIR MORAL CHARACTER AND CONDUCT. 511 an opposite cliaracter. The rich show kindness to the poor, in expectation of services, and a poor person who has no relatives, will seldom be supplied even with water in illness, and, when dead, wiU be dragged out to be devoured by the hygenas, instead of being buried. Relatives alone ^vill condescend to touch a dead body. It would be easy to enumerate instances of inhumanity which I have witnessed. An interesting-looking ghl came to my waggon one day, in a state of nudity, and almost a skeleton. She was a captive from another tribe, and had been neglected by the man who claimed her. Having supphed her wants, I made inquiry for him, and found that he had been unsuccessful in raising a crop of corn, and had no food to give her. I volunteered to take her ; but he said he would allow me to feed her and make her fat, and then take her away. I protested against this heartlessness ; and as he said he could " not part with his child," I was precluded from attending to her wants. In a day or two she was lost sight of. She had gone out a Httle way fi*om the town, and, being too weak to return, had been cruelly left to perish. Another day I saw a poor boy going to the water to drink, apparently in a starving condition. This case I brought before the chief in comicil, and found that his emaciation was ascribed to disease and want combined. He was not one of the Makololo, but a member of a subdued tribe. I showed them that any one professing to claim a child, and refusing proper nutriment, would be guilty of his death. Sekeletu decided that the owner of this boy should give up liis alleged right, rather than destroy the cliild. When I took liim, he was so far gone as to be in the cold stage of starva- tion, but was soon brought round by a Httle milk given three or four times a day. On leaving Linyanti, I handed him over to the charge of liis chief Sekeletu, who feeds his servants very well. On the other hand, I have seen instances in which both men and women have taken up Httle orphans, and carefuUy reared them as their own children. By a selection of cases of either kind, it would not be difficult to make these people appear excessively good or uncommonly bad. I still possessed some of the coffee which I had brought from Angola, and some of the sugar which I had left in my waggon. So long as the sugar lasted, Sekeletu favoured me with his com- pany at meals; but the sugar soon came to a close. The 512 SEKELETU'S COJOnSSIONS. Chap. XXV. Makololo, as formerly mentioned, were well acquainted with tlie sugar-cane, as it is cultivated by the Barotse, but never knew that sugar could be got from it. \ATien I explained the process by which it was produced, Sekeletu asked if I could not buy him an apparatus for the purpose of making sugar. He said that he would plant the cane largely, if he only had the means of making the sugar from it. I repKed, that I was unable to pm'chase a mill, when he instantly rejoined, " Why not take ivory to buy it ? " As I had been living at his expense, I was glad of the opportunity to show my gratitude by serving him ; and when he and liis principal men understood that I was willing to execute a commission, Sekeletu gave me an order for a sugar- mill, and for all the different varieties of clotliing that he had ever seen, especially a mohau' coat, a good rifle, beads, brass- we, &c. &c., and wound up by saying, " and any other beau- tiful thing you may see in your oto country." As to the „ quantity of ivory required to execute the commission, I said I feared tliat a large amount would be necessary. Both he and his councillors rephed, " The ivory is all yom* own ; if you leave any in the country it be your o\m fault." He was also anxious for horses. The two I had left with liim when I went to Loanda, were still living, and had been of gi-eat use to liim in hunting the giraffe and eland, and he was now anxious to have a breed. This, I thought might be obtained at the Portuguese settlements. All were very much dehghted with the donkeys we had brought from Loanda. As we found that they were not affected by the bite of the tsetse, and there was a prospect of the breed being continued, it was gratifying to see the experiment of their introduction so far successful. The donkeys came as frisky as kids all the way from Loanda, until we began to descend the Leeambye. There we came upon so many interlacing branches of the river, and were obKged to di-ag them tlu'ougli such masses of tangled aquatic plants, that we half drowned them, and were at last obliged to leave them somewhat exhausted at NaHele. They excited the unbounded admiration of my men by their knowledge of the dif- ferent kinds of plants, which, as they remarked, " the animals had never before seen in their own country;" and when the donkeys indulged in their music, they startled the inliabitants more than if they had been liorus. We never rode them, nor yet the horse Chap. XXV. AUTHOR'S INFLITEXCE WITH NATIVES. 513 which had been given by the Bishop, for fear of hurting them by any work. Although the Makololo were so confiding, the reader must not unagine that they would be so to every individual w^ho might yisit them. Much of my influence depended upon the good name given me by the Bakwains, and that I secured only through a long course of tolerably good conduct. No one ever gains much in- fluence in this country without purity and uprightness. The acts of a stranger are keenly scrutinized by both young and old, and seldom is the judgment pronounced, even by the heathen, unfair or uncharitable. I have heard women speaking in admiration of a white man, because he w^as pure, and never was guilty of any secret immoraHty. Had he been, they would have known it, and, untutored heathen though they be, would have despised him in consequence. Secret vice becomes known throughout the tribe ; and while one unacquainted mth the language may imagine a peccadillo to be liidden, it is as patent to all as it would be in London, had he a placard on his back. 27th October, 1855. The first continuous rain of the season commenced during the night, the wind being from the N.E., as it always was on hke occasions at Kolobeng. The rainy season was thus begun, and I made ready to go. The mother of Sekeletu prepared a bag of ground-nuts, by frjdng them in cream with a httle salt, as a sort of sandmclies for my journey. This is con- sidered food fit for a chief. Others ground the maize from my own garden into meal, and Sekeletu pointed out Sekwebu and Kanyata, as the persons who should head the party intended to form my company. Sekwebu had been captured by the Matebele wdien a Httle boy, and the tribe in wliich he was a captive, had migrated to the country near Tete : he had travelled along both banlvs of the Zambesi several times, and was intimately acquainted with the dialects spoken there. I found him to be a person of great prudence and sound judgment, and liis subsequent loss at the Mauritius has been, ever since, a source of sincere regret. He at once recommended our keeping well away from the river, on account of the tsetse and rocky country, assigning also as a reason for it, that the Leeambye beyond the falls tiu-ns round to the N.N.E. Mamire, who had married the mother of Sekeletu, on coming to bid me farewell before starting, said, " You 2 L 514 MOTIBE»S EXCUSES. Chap. XXV. are now going among people who cannot be trusted, because we have used them badly, but you go with a different message from any they ever heard before, and Jesus will be with you, and help you, though among enemies; and if he carries you safely and brings you and Ma Kobert back again, I shall say he has bestowed a great favour upon me. May we obtaiu a path whereby we may visit and be visited by other tribes, and by wliite men ! " On telling him my fears that he was still inclined to follow the old maraud- ing system, which prevented intercourse, and that he, from his influential position, was especially guilty in the late forays, he aclmowledged all rather too freely for my taste, but seemed quite aware that the old system was far from right. Mentioning my inability to pay the men who were to accompany me, he rephed, " A man ^\ishes, of course, to appear among liis friends after a long absence with sometliing of his own. to show : the whole of the ivory in the country is yoms, so you must take as much as you can, and Sekeletu will furnish men to can*)^ it." These remarks of Mamfre are quoted hterally, in order to show the state of mind of the most influential in the tribe. And as I wish to give the reader a fafr idea of the other side of the question as well, it may be mentioned, that Motibe parried the imputation of the gTiilt of marauding by every possible subterfuge. He would not admit that they had done ^vrong, and laid the gTult of the wars in wliich the Makololo had engaged, on the Boers, the Matebele, and every other tribe except his own. When quite a youth, Motibe's family had been attacked by a party of Boers : he liid himself in an anteater's hole, but was dra^\^l out and thrashed with a whip of hippopotamus-hide. WTien enjoined to Kve in peace, he would reply, "Teach the Boers to lay down their arms first." Yet Motibe on other occasions seemed to feel the difference between those who are Christians indeed, and those who are so only in name. In all our discussions we parted good friends. CiiAP. XXYI. A THUNDEESTOEM. 515 CHAPTEE XXvi. Departure from Linyanti — A thunderstorm — An act of genuine kindness — Fitted out a second time by the Makololo — Sail down the Leeambye — Sekote's kotia and human skulls ; his grave adorned with elephants' tusks — Victoria Falls — Native names — Columns of vapour — Gigantic crack — Wear of the rocks — *■ Shrines of the Barimo — " The Pestle of the Gods" — Second visit to the falls — Island garden — Store-house Island — — Natin^e diviners — An European diviner — Makololo foray — Marauder to be fined — Mambari — Makololo wish to stop Mambari slave-trading — Part with Sekeletu — Night travelling — Eiver Lekoue — Ancient fresh- water lakes — Formation of Lake Ngami — Native traditions — Drainage of the great valley — Native reports of the country to the north — Maps — Moyara's village — Savage customs of the Batoka — A chain of trading- stations — Eemedy against tsetse — " The Well of Joy" — First traces of trade with Europeans — Knocking out the front teeth — Facetious expla- nation — Degradation of the Batoka — Description of the travelling party — Cross the Unguesi — Geological formation — Euins of a large town — Productions of the soil similar to those in Angola — Abundance of fruit. On the 3rd of November we bade adieu to our friends at Linyanti, accompanied by Sekeletu and about 200 followers. We were all fed at his expense, and he took cattle for this piu-pose from every station we came to. The principal men of the Makololo ; Lebeole, Ntlarie, Nkwatlele, &c., were also of the party. We passed tlu'ough the patch of the tsetse, which exists between Linyanti and Sesheke, by night. The majority of the com- pany went on by dayhght, in order to prepare our beds. Sekeletu and I, with about forty young men, waited outside the tsetse till dark. We then went forward, and about ten o'clock it became so pitchy dark, that both horses and men were completely blinded. The Hghtning spread over the sl^y, forming eight or ten branches at a time, in sha23e exactly like those of a tree. This, wdth great volumes of sheet-Hghtning, enabled us at times to see the whole country. The intervals between the flashes were so densely dark, as to convey the idea of stone-blindness. The horses trembled, cried out, and turned round, as if searching for each other, and every new flash revealed the men taking different directions, laughing, and stmnbling against each other. The thunder was of 2 L 2 516 KINDNESS OF MAKOLOLO. Chap. XKYl. that tremendously loud kind only to be heard in tropical countries, and which, friends from India have assured me, is louder in Africa than any they have ever heard elsewhere. Then came a pelting rain, which completed om- confrision. After the intense heat of the day, we soon felt miserably cold, and turned aside to a fire we saw in the distance. This had been made by some people on their march ; for tliis path is seldom without numbers of strangers passing to and from the capital. My clothing having gone on, I lay down on the cold ground, expecting to spend a miserable night, but Sekeletu kindly covered me with his own blanket and lay uncovered liimself. I was much affected by tliis Httle act of genuine kindness. If such men must perish by the advance of civiHzation, as certain races of animals do before others, it is a pity. God grant that ere this time comes, they may receive that gospel, wliich is a solace for the soul in death ! While at Sesheke, Sekeletu supplied me with twelve oxen — three of Avhich were accustomed to being ridden upon — hoes, and beads to purchase a canoe, when we should strike the Leeambye beyond the falls. He likewise presented abundance of good fresh butter and honey, and did everj^thing in his power to make me comfortable for the jom^ney. I was entirely dej)endent on his generosity, for the goods I originally brought from the Cape, were aU expended by the time I set off from Linyanti to the west coast. I there di'ew 701. of my salary, paid my men with it, and purchased goods for the return jomiiey to Linyanti. These being now aU expended, the Makololo again fitted me out, and sent me on to the east coast. I was thus dependent on their bounty, and that of other Africans, for the means of going from Linyanti to Loanda, and again from Linyanti to the east coast ; and I feel deeply grateful to them. Coin would have been of no benefit, for gold and silver are quite unknown. We were here joined by Moriantsane, uncle of Sekeletu, and head-man of Sesheke, and, entering canoes on the 13th, some sailed dowTi the river to the confluence of the Chobe, wliile others di-ove the cattle along the banks, spending one night at Mparia, the island at the confluence of the Chobe, which is composed of trap, having crystals of quartz in it, coated with a pellicle of green copper ore. Attempting to proceed down the river next day, we were detained some hours by a strong east wind, raising waves so large as to threaten to swamp Chap. XXVI. SEKOTE'S ISLAND. 517 the canoes. The river is here very large and deep, and contains two considerable islands, which from either bank seem to be joined to the opposite shore. WTiile waiting for the wind to moderate, my friends related the traditions of these islands, and, as usual, praised the wisdom of Sebituane in balking the Batoka, who for- merly enticed wandering tribes to them, and starved them, by compelling the cliiefs to remain by his side till all liis cattle and people were ferried over. The Barotse beheve that at certain parts of the river a tremendous monster lies hid, and that it will catch a canoe and hold it fast and motionless, in spite of the utmost exertions of the paddlers. AMiile near Xameta, they even objected to pass a spot supposed to be haunted, and proceeded along a branch instead of the main stream. They beheve that some of them possess a knowledge of the proper prayer to lay the monster. It is strange to find fables similar to those of the more northern nations even in the heart of Africa. Can they be the vestiges of traditions of animals which no longer exist ? The fossil bones which lie in the calcareous tufa of this region will yet, we hope, reveal the ancient fauna. Having descended about ten miles, we came to the island of Nampene, at the beginning of the rapids, where we were obhged to leave the canoes and proceed along the banks on foot. The next evening we slept opposite the island of Chondo, and, then crossing the Lekone or Lekwine, early the following morning were at the island of Sekote, called Kalai. This Sekote was the last of the Batoka cliiefs whom Sebituane rooted out. The island is surrounded by a rocky shore and deep channels, through which the river rushes with great force. Sekote, feeling secure in his island home, ventured to ferry over the Matebele enemies of Sebituane. When they had retired, Sebituane made one of those rapid marches w^hich he always adopted in every enterprise. He came do\Mi the Leeambye from Nahele, sailing by day along the banks, and during the night in the middle of the stream, to avoid the hippopotami When he reached Kalai, Sekote took advantage of the larger canoes they employ in the rapids, and fled during the night to the opposite bank. Most of his people were slain or taken captive, and the island has ever since been under the Makololo. It is large enough to contain a considerable town. On the northern side I found the kotla of the 518 VICTOELi FALLS. Chap. XXYI. elder Sekote, garnished ^\ith numbers of human skulls mounted on poles : a large heap of the crania of liippopotami, the tusks imtouched except by time, stood on one side. At a short distance, imder some trees, we savv the gi-ave of Sekote, ornamented with seventy large elephants' tusks, planted round it with the points tm-ned inwards, and there were thirty more placed over the resting- places of his relatives. These were all decaying from the effects of the sun and weather ; but a few, wliich had enjoyed the shade, were in a pretty good condition. I felt inchned to take a speci- men of the tusks of the liij^popotami, as they were the largest I had ever seen ; but feared that the people would look upon me as a " resurrectionist " if I did, and regard any unfavoiu'able event which might afterwards occur, as a punishment for the sacrilege. The Batoka beheve that Sekote had a pot of medicine buried here, which, when opened, would cause an epidemic in the countr)^. These tjTants acted much on the fears of their people. As this was the point from wliich we intended to strike off to the north-east, I resolved on the folloA^iug day to visit the falls of Victoria, called by the natives Mosioatunya, or more anciently Shongwe. Of these we had often heard since we came into the country: indeed one of the questions asked by Sebituane was, "Have you smoke that sounds in your country?" They did not go near enough to examine them, but, viewing them with awe at a distance, said, in reference to the vapom- and noise, " Mosi oa timya " (smoke does sound there). It was pre- Adously called Shongwe, the meaning of which I could not ascertain. The word for a " pot " resembles this, and it may mean a seething caldron ; but I am not certain of it. Being persuaded that Mr. Oswell and myself were the very first Em-opeans who ever visited the Zambesi in the centre of the country, and that this is the connecting hnk between the kno^Ti and unknoTNii portions of that river, I decided to use the same liberty as the Makololo did, and gave the only Enghsh name I have affixed to any part of the country. Ko better proof of previous ignorance of this river could be desired, than that an untravelled gentleman, who had spent a great part of his life in the study of the geo- graphy of Africa, and knew ever}i:hing written on the subject from the time of Ptolemy downwards, actually asserted in the * Athenaeum,' while I was coming up the Red Sea, that this liiAi'. XXVI. VICTORIA FALLS. 519 magnificent river, tlie Leeambye, had "no connection with the Zambesi, but flowed under the Kalahari Desert, and became lost and " that, as aU the old maps asserted, the Zambesi took its rise in the very liills to wliich we have now come." Tliis modest as- sertion smacks exactly as if a native of Timbuctu should declare, that the " Thames " and the " Pool " were different rivers, he having seen neither the one nor the other. Leeambye and Zam- besi mean the very same tiling, viz. the River. Sekeletu intended to accompany me, but, one canoe only having come instead of the ' two he had ordered, he resigned it to me. After twenty minutes' sail from Kalai, we came in sight, for the first time, of the columns of vapour, appropriately called " smoke," rising at a distance of five or six miles, exactly as when large tracts of grass are burned in Africa. Five columns now arose, and bending in the dnection of the wind, they seemed placed against a low ridge covered mth trees ; the tops of the columns at this distance appeared to mingle with the clouds. They were white below, and liigher up became dark, so as to simulate smoke very closely. The whole scene was extremely beautiful; the banks and islands dotted over the river are adorned witli sylvan vegeta- tion of great variety of colour and form. At the period of our visit several trees were spangled over with blossoms. Trees have each their own physiognomy. There, towering over aU, stands the great burly baobab, each of whose enormous arms would form the trunk of a large tree, beside groups of graceful palms, which, with their feathery-shaped leaves depicted on the sky, lend their beauty to the scene. As a hieroglypliic they always mean " far from home," for one can never get over their foreign ah in a pic- ture or landscape. The silvery mohonono, which in the tropics is m form Kke the cedar of Lebanon, stands in pleasing contrast with the dark colour of the motsouri, whose cypress-form is dotted over at present with its pleasant scarlet fruit. Some trees resemble the great spreading oak, others assume the character of om- own ehns and chestnuts ; but no one can imagine the beauty of the view from anything witnessed in England. It had never been seen before by European eyes ; but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight. The only w^ant felt, is that of mountains in the background. The falls are bounded on tln-ee sides by ridges 300 or 400 feet m height, which are covered 520 VICTORIA FALLS. Chap. XXVL -v^-ith forest^ mth the red soil appearing among the trees. AATien about half a mile from the falls, I left the canoe by which we had come do^^Ti thus far, and embarked in a Hghter one, with men well acquainted with the rapids, who, by passing do^vn the centre of the stream in the eddies and still places caused by many jutting rocks, brought me to an island situated in the middle of the river, and on the edge of the hp over wliich the water rolls. In coming hither, there was danger of being swept down by the streams which rushed along on each side of the island ; but the river was now low, and we sailed where it is totally impossible to go when the water is high. But though we had reached the island, and were mthin a few yards of the spot, a view from wliich would solve the whole problem, I beheve that no one could perceive where the vast body of water went; it seemed to lose itseK in the earth, the opposite Hp of the fissm-e into which it disappeared, bemg only 80 feet distant. At least I did not comprehend it until, creeping ynth awe to the verge, I peered do^sn into a large rent wliich had been made from bank to bank of the broad Zambesi, and saw that a stream of a thousand yards broad, leaped down a hundred feet, and then became suddenly compressed into a space of fifteen or twenty yards. The entire falls are simply a crack made in a hard basaltic rock from the right to the left bank of the Zam- besi, and then prolonged from the left bank away through thirty or forty miles of hills. If one imagines the Thames filled with low tree-covered hills immediately beyond the tunnel, extending as far as Gravesend ; the bed of black basaltic rock instead of London mud ; and a fissure made therein from one end of the tunnel to the other, doTO through the keystones of the arch, and prolonged from the left end of the tunnel through tliirty miles of hills ; the pathway being 100 feet down from the bed of the river instead of what it is, with the Hps of the fissure from 80 to 100 feet apart ; then fancy the Thames leaping bodily into the gulf ; and forced there to change its direction, and flow from the right to the left bank ; and then iiisli boiling and roaring tlirough the hills, — he may have some idea of what takes place at this, the most wonderful sight I had witnessed in Africa. In looking do\Mi into the fissure on the right of the island, one sees notliing but a dense white cloud, which, at the time we visited the spot, had two bright rambows on it. (The Sim was on the meridian, and the decHnation about equal Chap. XXVI. aiGANTIC FISSURE. 521 to the latitude of the place.) From tliis cloud rushed up a great jet of vapour exactly lilvc steam, and it mounted 200 or 300 feet high ; there condensing, it changed its hue to that of dark smoke, and came back in a constant shower, which soon wetted us to the skin. Tliis shower falls chiefly on the opposite side of the fissure, and a few yards back from the lip, there stands a straight hedge of evergreen trees, whose leaves are always wet. From their roots a number of little rills nm back into the gulf ; but as they flow down the steep wall there, the colimin of vapour, in its ascent, Hcks them up clean off the rock, and away they mount again. They are constantly rmining do^^'n, but never reach the bottom. On the left of the island we see the water at the bottom, a wliite rolling mass moving away to the prolongation of the fissm-e, wliich branches off near the left bank of the river. A piece of the rock has fallen off a spot on the left of the island, and juts out from the water below, and from it, I judged the distance \a hich the water falls to be about 100 feet. The walls of this gigantic crack are perpendicular, and composed of one homogeneous mass of rock. The edge of that side over which the water falls, is worn off two or tlu-ee feet, and pieces have fallen away, so as to give it somewhat of a serrated appearance. That over -s^liich the water does not fall, is quite straight, except at the left corner, where a rent appears, and a piece seems inclined to fall off. Upon the whole, it is nearly in the state in wliicli it Avas left at the period of its formation. The rock is dark broTAii in colom*, except about ten feet from the bottom, which is discolom-ed by the annual rise of the water to that or a greater height. On the left side of the island we have a good view of the mass of water which causes one of the columns of vapour to ascend, as it leaps quite clear of the rock, and forms a thick unbroken fleece all the way to the bottom. Its whiteness gave the idea of snow, a sight I had not seen for many a day. As it broke into (if I may use the term) pieces of water, all rushing on in the same dii-ection, each gave off several rays of foam, exactly as bits of steel, when bm-nt in oxygen gas, give off rays of sparks. The snow-wliite sheet seemed like mp-iads of small comets rushing on in one direction, each of which left beliind its nucleus rays of foam. I never saw the appearance referred to, noticed elsewhere. It seemed to be the effect of the 522 THE LEEMIBYE. CuAP. XXYI. mass of water leaping at once clear of tlie rock, and but slowly- breaking up into spray. I have mentioned that we saw five columns of vapour ascending from this strange abyss. They are evidently formed by the com- pression suffered by the force of the water's own fall, into an impelding wedge-shaped space. Of the five columns, two on the right, and one on the left of the island were the largest, and the streams which formed them seemed each to exceed in size the falls of the Clyde at Stonebyres, when that river is in flood. This was the period of low water in the Leeambye, but, as far as I could guess, there v>'as a flow of five or six hundred yards of water, which, at the edge of the fall, seemed at least three feet deep. I WTite m the hope that others more capable of judging distances than myself will visit this scene, and I state simply the impressions made on my mind at the tune. I thought, and do still think, the river above the falls to be one thousand yards broad ; but I am a poor judge of distances on water, for I showed a naval fi.-iend what I supposed to be fom- hundred yards in the bay of Loanda, and, to my surprise, he pronounced it to be nine hundred. I tried to measm-e the Leeambye with a strong tliread, the only line I had in my possession, but when the men had gone two or three hundred yards, they got into conversation, and did not hear us shouting that the line had become entangled. By still going on they broke it, and, being carried away down the stream, it was lost on a snag. In vain I tried to bring to my recollection the way I had been taught to measure a river, by taking an angle with the sextant. That I once knew it, and that it was easy, were all the lost ideas I could recall, and they only increased my vexation. However, I measm-ed the river farther do^vn by another plan, and then I discovered that the Portuguese had measured it at Tete, and found it a httle over one thousand yards. At the falls it is as broad as at Tete, if not more so. AATioever may come after me will not, I trust, find reason to say I have indulged in exaggeration. With respect to the di-awing, it must be borne in mind, that it was composed from a rude sketch as viewed from the island, which exliibited the columns of vapour only, and a ground plan. The artist has given a good idea of the scene, but, by way of explanation, he has shown more of the depth of the fissure tlian is visible, except by going close to the edge. The iiAP. XXVI. WEAR OF THE ROCKS. 523 left-hand column, and that farthest off, are the smallest, and all ought to have been a Httle more tapering at the tops. The fissm-e is said by the Makololo to be very much deeper farther to the eastward; there is one part at which the walls are so sloping, that people accustomed to it, can go dowa by descending in a sitting position. The Makololo on one occasion, pursuing some fugitive Batoka, saw them, unable to stop the im- petus of their flight at the edge, literally dashed to pieces at the bottom. They beheld the stream like a " wliite cord " at the bottom, and so far down (probably 300 feet) that they became giddy, and were fain to go away, holding on to the ground. Now, though the edge of the rock over which the river falls, does not show wearing more than three feet, and there is no appearance of the opposite wall being worn out at the bottom in the parts exposed to view, yet it is probable that, where it has flowed beyond the falls, the sides of the fissure may have given way, and the parts out of sight may be broader than the " wliite cord " on the sm-face. There may even be some ramifications of the fissiure, which take a portion of the stream quite beneath the rocks ; but this I did not learn. If w-e take the want of much wear on the lip of hard basaltic rock as of any value, the period when this rock was riven, is not geologically very remote. I regretted the want of proper means of measuring and marking its width at the falls, in order that, at some future time, the question whether it is progressive or not, might be tested. It seemed as if a palm-tree could be laid across it from the island. And if it is progressive, as it would mark a gTeat natural drainage being effected, it might furnish a hope that Africa will one day become a healthy continent. It is at any rate very much changed in respect to its lakes, wdthin a comparatively recent period. At tln-ee spots near these falls, one of them the island in the middle on which we were, tln-ee Batoka chiefs offered up prayers and sacrifices to the Barimo. They chose their places of prayer witliin the sound of the roar of the cataract, and in sight of the bright bows in the cloud. They must have looked upon the scene with awe. Fear may have induced the selection. The river itself is, to them, mysterious. The words of the canoe-song are — 524 ISLAND GARDEN. Chap. XXVI. ;i r " The Leeambye 1 Nobody knows, Whence it comes and whither it goes." i The play of colours of the double iris on the cloud, seen by them \ elsewhere only as the rainbow, may have led them to the idea that this was the abode of Deity. Some of the Makololo who ' went with me near to Gonye, looked upon the same sign with awe. When seen in the heavens it is named " motse oa barimo " — the pestle of the gods. Here they could aj^proach the emblem, and see it stand steadily above the blustermg ujoroar below — a type of Him who sits supreme — alone unchangeable, though ruhng over all changmg things. But not aware of His true character, they had no admu-ation of the beautiful and good in then bosoms. They did not imitate His benevolence, for they were a bloody imperious crew, and Sebituane performed a noble service, in the expulsion from their fastnesses of these cruel " Lords of the Isles." Having feasted my eyes long on the beautiful sight, I returned to my friends at Kalai, and, saying to Sekeletu that he had notliing else worth showing in his country, his curiosity was excited to visit it the next day. I returned with the intention of taking a lunar observation from the island itself, but the clouds were unfavourable, consequently all my determinations of position refer to Kalai. (Lat. 17° 51' 54" S., long. 25° 41' E.) Sekeletu acknowledged to feeling a little nervous at the probabihty of being sucked mto the gulf before reacliing the island. His companions amused themselves by tin-owing stones dovm., and wondered to see them diminishing in size, and even disappearing, before they reached the water at the bottom. I had another object in view ui my return to the island. I observed that it was covered with trees, the seeds of which had probably come down with the stream from the distant north, and several of which I had seen nowhere else, and every now and then the wind wafted a httle of the condensed vapour over it, and kept the soil in a state of moisture, which caused a sward of gTass, growing as gi'een as on an English lawn. I selected a spot — not too near the chasm, for there the constant deposition of the moisture nourished numbers of polypi of a mushroom shape and fleshy consistence — but somewhat back, and made a Httle garden. I there planted about a himdred peach and apricot stones, and a quantity of coffee-seeds. I had attempted fruit-trees before, but, Chap. XXVI. DIVINERS, NATIVE AND EUROPEAN. 525 when left in charge of my Makololo friends, they were always allowed, to wither, after having vegetated, by being forgotten. I bargained for a hedge with one of the Makololo, and if he is faithful, I have great hopes of Mosioatunya's abilities as a niu-- seryman. My only source of fear is the liippopotami, whose foot- prints I saw on the island. \\Tien the garden was prepared, I cut my initials on a tree, and the date 1855. This was the only in- stance in which I indulged in tliis piece of vanity. The garden stands in front, and were there no liippopotami, I have no doubt but this will be the parent of all the gardens, which may yet be in this new country. We then went up to Kalai again. On passing up we had a view of the hut on the island, where my goods had lain so long in safety. It was under a group of palm-trees, and Sekeletu informed me that, so fully persuaded were most of the Makololo of the presence of dangerous charms in the packages, that, had I not retm-ned to tell them the con- trary, tliey never would have been touched. Some of the diviners had been so positive m their decisions on the point, that the men who lifted a bag thought they felt a live Idd in it. The diviners always quote their predictions when thay happen to tally wdth the event. They declared that the whole party wliich went to Loanda had perished ; and as I always quoted the instances in which they failed, many of them refused to throw the " bola " (in- struments of divination) when I was near. This was a noted instance of failure. It w^ould have afforded me equal if not greater pleasure to have exposed the failm-e, if such it had been, of the European diviner whose paper lay a whole year on tliis island, but I was obhged to confess that he had been successful with his " bola," and could only comfort myself with the idea that, though Sir Eoderick Murchison's discom-se had lain so long within sight and sound of the magnificent falls, I had been " cut out " by no one in their discovery. I saw the falls at low water, and the columns of vapom-, when five or six miles distant. When the river is fuU, or in flood, the columns, it is said, can be seen ten miles off, and the sound is quite distinct somewhat beyond Kalai, or about an equal distance. No one can then go to the island in the middle. The next visitor must bear these pouits in mind in comparing liis descrip- tion with mine. 526 *' LIFTING," NOT "STEALING." Chap. XXXI. We here got information of a foray, which had been made by a Malvololo man m the dii'ection we were going. This instance of marauding was so much in accordance with the system which has been pm-sued in this country, that I did not wonder at it. But the man had used Sekeletu's name as haAdng sent hun, and, the proof being convincing, he would undoubtedly be fined. As that would be the first instance of a fine being levied for marauding, I looked upon it as the beginning of a better state of tliuigs. In tribes wliich have been accustomed to cattle-stealing, the act is not considered immoral, in the way that theft is. Before I knew the lang-uage well, I said to a chief, " You stole the cattle of so and so." " No, I did not steal them," was the reply, " I only lifted theuL" The word " gapa " is identical with the Highland term for the same deed. Another point came to our notice here. Some Mambari had come down thus far, and induced the Batoka to sell a very large tusk wliich belonged to Sekeletu, for a few bits of cloth. They had gone among the Batoka who need hoes, and, ha\dng purchased some of these from the people near Sesheke, induced the others lin ing farther east, to sell both ivory and children. They would not part with children for clothing or beads, but agTicultm-e with wooden hoes is so laborious, that the sight of the hoes prevailed. The Makololo proposed to knock the Mambari on the head as the remedy, the next time they came ; but on my proposing that they should send hoes themselves, and thereby secure the ivory in a quiet way, all approved highly of the idea, and Pitsane and Mohorisi expatiated on the value of the ivory, their own willing- ness to go and sell it at Loanda, and the disgust with which the Mambari whom we met in Angola, had looked upon their attempt to reach the proper market. If nothing untoward happens, I think there is a fair prospect of the trade in slaves being abolished in a natm-al way in tliis quarter ; Pitsane and Mohorisi having again expressed their willingness to go away back to Loanda if Sekeletu would give them orders. This was the more remarkable, as both have plenty of food and leisure at home. 20th November. — Sekeletu and his large party having conveyed me thus far, and furnished me mth a company of 114 men to carry the tusks to the coast, we bade adieu to the Makololo, and proceeded northwai'ds to the Lekone. The country around is CiiAP. XXVI. ANCIENT LAKES. 527 very beautiful, and was once well peopled with Batoka, who possessed enormous herds of cattle. When Sebituane came m former times, with his small but warlike party of Makololo, to this spot, a general rising took place of the Batoka tlu'ough the whole country, in order to " eat him up ;" but his usual success fol- lowed him, and, dispersiug them, the Makololo obtained so many cattle, that they could not take any note of the herds of sheep and goats. The tsetse has been brought by buffaloes into some districts where formerly cattle abounded. This obhged us to travel the first few stages by night. We could not well detect the nature of the coimtry ui the dim moordight ; the path, however, seemed to lead along the high banl?: of what may have been the ancient bed of the Zambesi, before the fissm-e was made. The Lekone now winds in it, in an opposite direction to that in which the ancient river must have flowed. Both the Lekone and Ung-uesi flow back towards the centre of the country, and in an opposite dhection to that of the main stream. It was plain, then, that we were ascending, the fm'ther we went eastward. The level of the lower portion of the Lekone is about 200 feet above that of the Zambesi at the falls, and considerably more than the altitude of Linyanti ; con- sequently, when the river flowed along this ancient bed, instead of through the rent, the whole country between tliis, and the ridge beyond Libebe westwards; Lake IN'gami and the Zouga southwards ; and eastwards beyond Nchokotsa, was one large fresh-water lake. There is abundant evidence of the exist- ence and extent of this vast lake in the longitudes indicated, and stretching from 17° to 21° S. latitude. The whole of this space is paved with a bed of tufa, more or less soft, according as it is covered mth sod, or left exposed to atmospheric uifluences. Wherever ant-eaters make deep holes in this ancient bottom, fresh-water shells are tlirown out, identical with those now existing, in the Lake Ngami and the Zambesi. The Barotse vaUey was another lake of a similar natm-e, and one existed be- yond Masiko, and a fourth near the Orange Kiver. The whole of these lakes were let out by means of cracks or fissures made in the subtending sides, by the upheaval of the country. The fissure made at the Victoria Falls let out the water of this gxeat valley, and left a smaU patch in what was probably its deepest 528 TRADITIONS. Chap. XXYI. portion, and is now called Lake I^gami. Tlie Falls of Gonye fiiriiished an outlet to the lake of the Barotse valley, and so of the other great lakes of remote times. The Congo also finds its way to the sea tlirongh a narrow fissure, and so does the Orange Biver in the west ; while other rents made ia the eastern ridge, as the Victoria Falls and those to the east of Tanganyenka, allowed the central waters to drain eastward. All the African lakes liitherto discovered are shallow, in consequence of being the mere residua of very much larger ancient bodies of water. There can be no doubt that this continent was, in former times, very much more copiously sujDpHed mth water than at present, but a natural process of drainage has been going on for ages. Deep fissures are made, probably by the elevation of the land, proofs of which are seen in modern shells embedded in marly tufa, all round the coast-line. Whether this process of desiccation is as rapid tln-oughout the continent, as in a letter to the late Dean Buck- land, iu 1843, I showed to have been the case in the Bechuana country, it is not for me to say ; but though there is a shght tradition of the waters having bm-st through the low hills south of the Barotse, there is none of a sudden upheaval accom- panied by an earthquake. The formation of the crack of Mo- sioatunya is perhaps too ancient for that ; yet, although in- formation of any remarkable event is often transmitted in the native names, and they even retain a tradition wliich looks lilvc the story of Solomon and the harlots, there is not a name lilie Tom Earthquake, or Sam Shake-the-gTOund, in the whole country. They have a tradition wliich may refer to the build- ing of the Tower of Babel, but it ends in the bold builders getting their crowns cracked by the fall of the scaffolding ; and that they came out of a cave called " Loey " (Noe ?), in company mth the beasts, and all point to it in one direction, viz. the N.N.E. Loey, too, is an exception in the language, as they use mascuHne instead of neuter pronouns to it. If we take a glance back at the great valley, the form the rivers have taken imparts the idea of a lake slowly drained out, for they have cut out for themselves beds exactly like what we may see, in the soft mud of a shallow pool of ram-water, when that is let off by a furrow. Tliis idea would probably not strike a person on coming first into the country, but more extensive Chap. XXYI. DRAINAGE OF THE GREAT VALLEY. 529 acquaintance vdth the river-system, certainly would convey the im- pression. None of the rivers in the valley of the Leeambye have slopes do^vn to their beds. Indeed, many parts are much lilve the Thames at the Isle of Dogs, only the Leeambye has to rise twenty or thirty feet before it can overflow some of its meadows. The rivers have each a bed of low water ; a simple furrow cut sharj^ly out of the calcareous tufa, which Hned the channel of the ancient lake ; and another of inundation. WTien the beds of inundation are filled, they assume the appearance of chains of lakes. When the Clyde fills the holms {" haughs ") above Both- well Bridge and retires again into its channel, it resembles the river we are speaking of, only here, there are no liigh lands sloping down towards the bed of inundation, for the gi'eater part of the region is not elevated fifty feet above them. Even the rocky banks of the Leeambye below Gonye, and the ridges bounding the Barotse valley, are not more than two or three hundred feet in altitude over the general dead level. Many of the. rivers are very tortuous in their course, the Chobe and Simah particularly so; and if we may receive the testimony of the natives, they form what anatomists call anastamosis, or a network of rivers. Thus, for instance, they assured me that, if they go up the Simah in a canoe, they can enter the Chobe and descend that river to the Leeambye ; or they may go up the Kama and come dowTi the Simah. And so in the case of the Kafue. It is reputed to be connected in this way wdth the Leeambye in the north, and to part with the Loangwa ; and the Makololo went from the one, into the other, in canoes. And even though the interlacing may not be quite to the extent beheved by the natives, the country is so level and the rivers so tortuous, that I see no improbability in the conclusion, that here is a network of waters of a very pecuhar nature. The reason why I am disposed to place a certain amount of confidence in the native reports is this, — when Mr. OsweU and I discovered the Zambesi in the centre of the con- tinent in 1851, being unable to ascend it at the time ourselves, we employed the natives to draw a map embodjong their ideas of that river. We then sent the native map home with the same view that I now mention their ideas of the river system — namely, ia order to be an aid to others in farther investigations. \Mien I was able to ascend the Leeambye to 14° south, and subsequently 2 M 530 SAVAGE CUSTOMS OF BATOKA. Chap. XXYL descend it, I found, after all the care I could bestow, that the alterations I was able to make in the original native plan, were very trifling. The general idea their map gave was wonder- fully accurate; and now I give, in the larger map appended, then* views of the other rivers, in the hope that they may prove helpful to any traveller who may pursue the investigation farther. 2^th. — We remained a day at the village of Moyara. Here the valley in which the Lekone flows, trends away to the east- ward, wliile our com-se is more to the N.E. The country is rocky and rough, the soil being red sand, wliich is covered with beautiful green trees, pelding abundance of wild fruits. The father of Moyara was a powerful chief, but the son now sits among the ruins of the toT\ai, with fom- or five mves and very few people. At his hamlet a nimiber of stakes are planted in the ground, and I counted fifty-four human skulls hung on their points. These were Matebele, who, unable to approach Sebituane on the island of Loyela, had returned sick and famishing. Moyara's father took advantage of then- reduced condition, and, after putting them to death, mounted their heads in the Batoka fasliion. The old man who perpetrated this deed now hes in the middle of his son's huts, with a lot of rotten ivory over his grave. One cannot help feeling thankful that the reign of such vetches is over. They uiliabited the whole of tliis side of the country, and were probably the barrier to the extension of the Portuguese commerce in this dhection. AMien looking at these skulls, I remarked to Moyara, that many of them were those of mere boys. He assented readily and pointed them out as such. I asked why his father had killed boys. " To show his fierceness," was the answer. " Is it fierceness to kill boys ? " " Yes, they had no business here." Wlien I told him that this probably would ensure his own death if the Matebele came again, he rephed, " When I hear of their coming I shall hide the bones." He was evidently proud of these trophies of his father's ferocity, and I was assured by other Batoka, that few strangers ever returned from a \Tsit to this quarter. If a man wished to curry favour Tvdth a Batoka cliief, he ascertained when a stranger was about to leave, and waylaid him at a distance jfrom the town, and when he brought the head back to the chief, it was mounted as a Chap. XXYI. REMEDY AGAINST TSETSE. 531 trophy ; the different chiefs vieing with each other as to wliich should mount the greatest number of skulls in his village. If, as has been asserted, the Portuguese ever had a chain of trading stations across the country from Caconda to Tete, it must have passed through these people, but the total ignorance of the Zambesi flowing from north to south in the centre of the country, and the want of knowledge of the astonisliing falls of Victoria which excite the wonder of even the natives, together with the absence of any tradition of such a chain of stations, compel me to beheve, that they existed only on paper. This conviction is strengthened by the fact that, when a late attempt was made to claim the honour of crossing the continent for the Portu- guese, the only' proof advanced was the journey of two black traders formerly mentioned, adorned with the name of " Portu- guese''' If a chain of stations had existed, a few himdred names of the same sort might easily have been brought forward ; and such is the lOve of barter among aU the central Africans that, had there existed a market for ivory, its value would have become Imown, and even that on the graves of the cliiefs, would not have been safe. Wlien about to leave Moyara on the 25th, he brought a root which, when pounded and sprinkled over the oxen, is beHeved to disgust the tsetse, so that it flies off without sucldng the blood. He promised to show me the plant or tree if I would give him an ox ; but as we were travelling, and could not afford the time required for the experiment, so as not to be cheated (as I had too often been by my medical friends), I deferred the investigation tiU I returned. It is probably but an evanescent remedy, and capable of rendering the cattle safe during one night only. Moyara is now quite a dependant of the Makololo, and my new party, not being thorouglily drilled, forced him to carry a tusk for them. When I relieved him, he poured forth a shower of thanks, at being allowed to go back to sleep beneath his skulls. Next day we came to Namilanga, or " The Well of Joy." It is a smaU well dug beneath a very large fig-tree, the shade of which renders the water dehghtfully cool. The temperature through the day was 104° in the shade and 94^ after sunset, but the air was not at all oppressive. This well received its name from the fact, that in former times marauding parties, in retiu-ning 2 M 2 532 KNOCKING OUT FRONT TEETH. Chap. XXYI. with cattle, sat down here and were regaled with boyaloa, music, and the luUilooing of the women from the adjacent towns. All tlie surrounding country was formerly densely peopled, though now desolate and still. The old head-man of this place told us that his father once went to Bambala, where wliite traders lived, when our informant was a child, and returned when he had become a boy of about ten years. He went again, and returned when it was time to knock out his son's teeth. As that takes place at the age of puberty, he must have spent at least five years in each journey. He added that many who went there never returned, because they liked that country better than this. They had even forsaken their wives and cliildren ; and children had been so enticed and flattered by the finery bestowed upon them there, that they had disowned their parents and adopted others. The place to wliich they had gone, which they named Bambala, was probably Dambarari, which was situated close to Zumbo. This was the first mtimation we had of intercourse with the whites. The Barotse, and all the other tribes in the central valley, have no such tradition as this ; nor have either the one or the other any account of a trader's visit to them in ancient times. AH the Batoka tribes follow the curious custom of knocking out the upper front teeth at the age of puberty. This is done by both sexes, and though the under teeth, being reheved from the attrition of the upper, grow long and somewhat bent out, and thereby cause the under hp to protrude in a most unsightly way, no young woman tliinks herself accompHshed until she has got rid of the upper incisors. This custom gives all the Batoka an uncouth, old-man Hke appearance. Their laugh is hideous, yet they are so attached to it, that even Sebituane was unable to eradicate the practice. He issued orders, that none of the children living under liim should be subjected to the custom by their parents, and disobedience to his mandates was usually punished with severity ; but notwithstanding tliis, the cliildren would appear in the streets without their incisors, and no one would confess to the deed. When questioned respecting the origin of this practice, the Batoka reply, that then- object is to be hke oxen, and those who retain their teeth they consider to resemble zebras. Whether this is the true reason or not, it is difficult to say ; but it is notice- able that the veneration for oxen which prevails in many tribes Chap. XXYI. THE TRAVELLING PAETY. 633 should here be associated with hatred to the zebra, as among the Bakwains ; that this operation is performed at the same age that circumcision is in other tribes ; and that here that ceremony is unknown. The custom is so universal, that a person who has his teeth is considered ugly, and occasionally, when the Batoka borrowed my looking-glass, the disparaging remark would be made respecting boys or girls who still retained their teeth, " Look at the great teeth ! " Some of the Makololo give a more facetious explanation, of the custom ; they say that the wife of a chief having in a quarrel bitten her husband's hand, he, in revenge, ordered her front teeth to be knocked out, and all the men in the tribe followed his example ; but this does not explain why they afterwards knocked out their ovm. The Batoka of the Zambesi are generally very dark in colour, and very degraded and negro-like in appearance, while those who live on the high lands we are now ascending, are frequently of the colour of coffee and milk. We had a large number of the Batoka of Mokwine in our party, sent by Sekeletu to carry his tusks. Their greater degradation was probably caused by the treatment of their chiefs — the barbarians of the islands. I found them more difficult to manage than any of the rest of my compa- nions, being much less reasonable and impressible than the others. My party consisted of the head-men afore-mentioned, Sekwebu, and Kanyata. We were joined at the falls by another head-man of the Makololo, named Monahin, in command of the Batoka. We had also some of the Banajoa under Mosisinyane, and last of all, a small party of Bashubia and Barotse under Tuba Mokoro, which had been famished by Sekeletu because of their ability to swim. They carried their paddles with them, and, as the Makololo suggested, were able to swim over the rivers by night and steal canoes, if the inhabitants should be so unreasonable as to refuse to lend them. These different parties assorted together into messes ; any orders were given through their head-man, and when food was obtained he distributed it to the mess. Each party knew its own spot in the encampment ; and as this was always placed so that our backs should be to the east, the direction from whence the prevailing winds came, no tune was lost in fixing the sheds of our encampment. They each took it in turn to pull grass to make my bed, so I lay luxuriously. 534 PRODUCTIONS OF THE SOIL. Chap. XXVI. Novewher 2Qth. — As the oxen could only move at night, in con- sequence of a fear that the buffaloes in tliis quarter might have introduced the tsetse, I usually performed the march by day on foot, while some of the men brought on the oxen by night. On coming to the villages under Marimba, an old man, we crossed the Unguesi, a ri\a^ilet which, like the Lekone, runs baclrvvard. It falls into the Leeambye a little above the commencement of the rapids. The stratified gneiss, which is the underlying rock of much of this part of the country, dips towards the centre of the continent, but the strata are often so much elevated as to appear nearly on their edges. Eocks of augitic trap are foimd in various positions on it ; the general strike is north and south, but when the gneiss was first seen, near to the basalt of the falls, it was easterly and westerly, and the dip towards the north, as if the eruptive force of the basalt had placed it in that position. We passed the remains of a very large town, which, from the only evidence of antiquity afforded by ruins in this country, must have been inhabited for a long period ; the millstones of gneiss, trap, and quartz, were worn down, two and a half inches per- pendicularly. The ivory gravestones soon rot away. Those of Moyara's father, who must have died not more than a dozen years ago, were crumbling into powder ; and we found this to be generally the case all over the Batoka country. The region around is pretty well covered with forest ; but there is abundance of open pasturage, and as we are ascending in altitude we find the grass to be short, and altogether unlike the tangled herbage of the Barotse valley. It is remarkable that we now meet T\ith the same trees we saw in descending towards the west coast. A kind of stercuha, which is the most common tree at Loanda, and the baobab, flourish here ; and the tree called moshuka, which we found near Tala Mimgongo, was now yielding its fruit, wliich resembles smaU apples. The people brought it to us in large quantities : it tastes like a pear, but has a harsh rind, and four large seeds within. We found pro- digious quantities of tliis fruit as we went along. The tree attaias the height of 15 or 20 feet, and has leaves, hard and glossy, as large as one's hand. The tree itself is never found on the lowlands, but is mentioned with approbation at the end of the work of Bowdich. My men almost lived upon the fruit for many days.' The rains had fallen only partially : in many parts the soil was CiiAP. XXVI. ABUNDANCE OF FRUIT. 535 quite dry and the leaves drooped mournfully, but the fruit-trees are unaffected by a drought, except when it happens at the time of their blossoming. The Batoka of my party declared that no one ever dies of hunger here. We obtained baskets of maneko, a curious fruit, with a horny rind, spKt into five pieces : these sections, when chewed, are full of a fine glutinous matter, and sweet like sugar. The seeds are covered with a yellow silky dovni, and are not eaten : the entire fruit is about the size of a walnut. We got also abundance of the motsouri and mamosho. We saw the Batoka eating the beans called nju, wliich are con- tained in a large square pod ; also the puJp between the seeds of nux vomica, and the motsmtsela. Other fruits become ripe at other seasons, as the motsildri, wliich yields an oil, and is a magni- ficent tree, bearing masses of dark evergreen leaves ; so that, from the general plenty, one can readily believe the statement made by the Batoka. We here saw trees allowed to stand in gardens, and some of the Batoka even plant them — a practice seen nowhere else among natives. A species of leucodendron abounds. When we meet mth it on a spot on which no rain has yet fallen, we see tliat the young ones twist their leaves round during the heat of the day, so that the edge only is exposed to the rays of the sun ; they have then a half twist on the petiole. The acacias in the same circumstances, and also the mopane (Bauhinid), fold their leaves together, and, by presenting the smallest possible surface to the sun, simulate the eucalypti of Australia. 536 LOW HILLS. Chap. XXVII. CHAPTEK XXVII. Low hills — Black soldier-ants ; their cannibalism — The plasterer and its chloroform — White ants, their usefulness — Mutokwane-smoking ; its effects — Border territory — Healthy table-lands — Geological formation — Cicadse — Trees — Flowers — River Kalomo — Physical conformation of country — Ridges, sanatoria — A wounded bufi'alo assisted — Bufifalo- bird — Rhinoceros-bird — Leaders of herds — The honey-guide — The White Mountain — Mozuma river — Sebituane's old home — Hostile village — Prophetic frenzy — Food of the elephant — Ant-hills — Friendly Batoka — Clothing despised — Method of salutation — Wild fruits — The captive released — Longings for peace — Pingola's conquests — The village of Monze — Aspect of the country — Visit from the chief Monze and his wife — Central healthy stations — Friendly feelings of the people in reference to a white resident — Fertility of the soil — Bashukulompo mode of dressing their hair — Gratitude of the prisoner we released — Kindness and remarks of Monze's sister — Dip of the rocks — Vegetation — Generosity of the inhabitants — Their anxiety for medicine — Hooping- cough — Birds and rain. November 21th. — Still at Marimba's. In the adjacent country palms aboimd, but none of that species which yields the oil; indeed that is met with onlv near the coast. There are numbers of flowers and bulbs just shooting up from the soil. The surface is rough and broken into gullies ; and though the country is parched, it has not that appearance, so many trees having put forth their fresh green leaves at the time the rains ought to have come. Among the rest, stands the mola, with its dark brownish-green colour and spreading oak-like form. In the distance there are ranges of low hiUs. On the north we have one called Kanjele, and to the east that of Kaonka, to which we proceed to-moiTow. We have made a considerable detour to the north, both on account of our wish to avoid the tsetse, and to visit the people. Those of Kaonka are the last Batoka we shall meet, in friendship with the Makololo. Walking do^^Ti to the forest, after telhng these poor people, for the first time in their Kves, that the Son of God had so loved them as to come do^Mi from heaven to save them, I observed many Chap. XXVH. BLACK SOLDIER-ANTS. 537 regiments of black soldier-ants, returning from their marauding expeditions. These I have often noticed before in different parts of the country ; and as we had even at Kolobeng an opportunity of observing their habits, I may give a short account of them here. They are black, with a shght tinge of grey, about half an inch in length, and on the line of march appear three or four abreast ; when disturbed, they utter a distinct hissing or chirping sound. They follow a few leaders who never carry an}i:hing, and they seem to be guided by a scent left on the path by the leaders ; for happejong once to throw the water from my basin behind a bush where I was dressing, it Hghted on the path by which a regiment had passed before I began my toilette, and Avhen they returned they were totally at a loss to find the way home, though they continued searching for it nearly half an hour. It was found only by one making a long circuit round the wetted spot. The scent may have indicated also, the propriety of their going in one direction only. If a handful of earth is tlu-OTMi on the path, at the middle of the regiment, either on its way home or abroad, those behind it are completely at a loss as to their further progress. Whatever it may be that guides them, they seem only to know that they are not to return, for they come up to the handful of earth, but will not cross it, though not a quarter of an inch liigh. They wheel round and regain their path again, but never think of retreating to the nest, or to the place where they have been stealing. After a quarter of an hour's confusion and hissing, one may make a circuit of a foot round the earth, and soon aU foUow in that roundabout way. AMien on their way to attack the abode of the white ants, the latter may be observed rusliing about in a state of great perturbation. The black leaders, dis- tinguished from the rest by their greater size, especially in the region of the sting, then seize the white ants one by one, and inflict a sting, which seems to inject a portion of fluid similar in effect to chloroform, as it rendei-s them insensible but not dead, and only able to move one or two front legs. As the leaders toss them on one side, the rank and file seize them and cany them off. One morning I saw a party going forth on what has been sup- posed to be a slave-hunting expedition. They came to a stick, which, being enclosed in a wliite-ant gaUeiy, I knew contained numbers of this insect ; but I was surprised to see the black soldiers passing 538 BLACK SOLDIER-ANTS. Chap. XXYIL without touching it. I lifted up the stick and broke a portion of the gallery, and then laid it across the path in the middle of the black regiment. The white ants, when uncovered, scampered about with great celerity, hiding themselves under the leaves, but attracted little attention from the black marauders, till one of the leaders caught them, and applying his sting, laid them in an instant on one side in a state of coma ; the others then promptly seized them and rushed off. On first observing these marauding insects at Kolobeng, I had the idea, imbibed from a work of no less authority than Brougham's Paley, that they seized the white ants in order to make them slaves ; but ha^ong rescued a number of captives, I placed them aside, and found that they never recovered from the state of insensibility into which they had been throAvn by the leaders. I supposed then that the insensibility had been caused by the soldiers holding the necks of the white ants too tightly mth then- mandibles, as that is the way they seize them ; but even the pupae which I took from the soldier ants, though placed in a favom-able temperatm-e, never became developed. In addition to this, if any one examines the orifice by which the black ant enters his barracks, he will always find a little heap of hard heads and legs of the white ants, showing that these black ruffians are a grade lower than slave-stealers, being actually cannibals. Elsewhere, I have seen a body of them remo^-ing their eggs from a place in which they were hkely to be flooded by the rains ; I calculated then- numbers to be 1260 ; they carried their eggs a cei-tain distance, then laid them down, when others took them and carried them further on. Ever\^ ant in the colony seemed to be employed in this laborious occupation, yet there was not a wliite slave-ant among them. One cold mombig, I observed a band of another species of black ant, returning each with a captive : there could be no doubt of then- cannibal propensities, for the " brutal soldiery " had already deprived the white ants of their legs. The fluid in the stings of this species, is of an mtensely acid taste. I had often noticed the stupefaction produced by the injection of a fluid from the sting of certain insects before. It is particu- larly observable in a hjTnenopterous insect called the plasterer^^ (Pelopceus Eckloni), which in its habits resembles somewhat the mason-bee. It is about an inch and a quarter in length, jet black in colom-, and may be observed coming into houses, carr\^uig in Chap. XXVII. WHITE ANTS. 539 its fore-legs a pellet of soft plaster about the size of a pea. ^VlleTl it has fixed upon a convenient spot for its dwelling, it forms a cell about the same length as its body, plastering the walls, so as to be quite thin and smooth inside. Wlien tliis is finished, all except a round hole, it brings seven or eight caterpillars or spiders, each of which is rendered insensible, but not killed, by the fluid from its sting. These it deposits in the cell, and then one of its own larvae, which, as it grows, finds food quite fresh. The insects are in a state of coma, but the presence of vitality prevents putridity, or that drying up, which would otherwise take place in this climate. By the time the young insect is full grown and its wuigs completely developed, the food is done. It then pierces the wall of its cell at the former door, or place last filled up by its parent, flies off, and begins life for itself. The plasterer is a most useful insect, as it acts as a check on the inordmate iacrease of cater- pillars and spiders. It may often be seen mth a caterpillar or even a cricket much larger than itself, but they he perfectly stiU after the injection of cliloroform, and the plasterer, placing a row of legs on each side of the body, uses both legs and wings in trailuig the victim along. The fluid in each case is, I suppose, designed to cause insensibility and Likewise act as an antiseptic, the death of the victims being mthout pain. Without these black soldier-ants, the country would be overrun by the white ants ; they are so extremely prolific, and nothing can exceed the energy with which they work. They perform a most important part in the economy of nature, by bmying vegetable matter as quickly beneath the soil, as the ferocious red ant does dead animal substances. The white ant keeps generally out of sight, and works under galleries constructed by night, to screen them from the observation of birds. At some given signal, how- ever, I never could ascertain what, they rush out by hundreds, and the sound of their mandibles cutting grass mto lengths, may be heard hke a gentle wind mui*muring through the leaves of the trees. They drag these pieces to the doors of their abodes, and after some hours' toil leave ofi" work, and many of the bits of grass may be seen collected around the orifice. They con- tinue out of sight for perhaps a month, but they are never idle. On one occasion, a good bundle of grass was laid domi for my bed, on a spot which was quite smooth and destitute of plants. The 540 EFFECTS OF SMOKING MUTOKWANE. Chap. XXVII. ants at once sounded the call to a good supply of grass. I heard them incessantly nibbling and carrying away all that night; and they continued all next day (Sunday) and all that night too with unabated energy. They had thus been thirty-six hours at it, and seemed as fresh as ever. In some situations, if we re- mained a day, they devoured the grass beneath my mat, and would have eaten that too, had we not laid do^Ya more grass. At some of their operations, they beat time in a curious manner. Hundreds of them are engaged in building a large tube, and they wish to beat it smooth. At a signal, they aU give three or four energetic beats on the plaster in unison. It produces a sound Hke the dropj^ing of rain off a bush when touched. These insects are the chief agents employed in forming a fertile soil. But for their labours, the tropical forests, bad as they are now mth fallen trees, would be a thousand times worse. They would be impass- > able on account of the heaps of dead vegetation lying on the surface, and emitting worse effluvia than the comparatively small imburied collections do now. \\Qien one looks at the wonderful adaptations tln-oughout creation, and the varied operations carried on with such wisdom and skill, the idea of second causes looks- clumsy. We are viewing the dii-ect handiworks of Him who is the one and only Power in the universe ; wonderful in counsel ; in whom we all live and move and have our being. The Batoka of these parts are very degraded in their appear- ance, and are not hkely to improve, either physically or mentally, while so much addicted to smoking the mutokwane {Cannabis sativa). They like its narcotic effects, though the violent fit of cougliing, which follows a couple of puffs of smoke, appears dis- tressing, and causes a feeling of disgust in the spectator. This is not diminished on seeing the usual practice of taking a mouthful of water, and squirtmg it out together with the smoke, then uttering a string of half-incoherent sentences, usually in self- praise. This pernicious weed is extensively used in aU the tribes of the interior. It causes a species of frenzy, and Sebituane's soldiers, on coming in sight of their enemies, sat do^vn and smoked it, in order that they might make an effective onslaught. I was unable to prevail on Sekeletu and the young Makololo to forego its use, although they cannot point to an old man in the tribe who has been addicted to tliis indulgence. I beHeve it was the ciiAP. xxvn. BORDER TERRITORY. 541 proximate cause of Sebituane's last illness, for it sometimes occa- sions pneumonia. Never having tried it, I cannot describe the pleasurable eJBfects it is said to produce, but the hachshish in use among the Turks is simply an extract of the same plant, and that, lilie opium, produces different effects on different indivi- duals. Some view everything as if looking in tlu-ough the wide end of a telescope, and others, in passing over a straw, lift up their feet as if about to cross the trunk of a tree. The Portuguese in Angola have such a belief in its deleterious effects that the use of it by a slave is considered a crime. November 28tA. — The inhabitants of the last of Kaonka's villages, complained of being plundered by the independent Batoka. The tribes in front of this are regarded by the Makololo as in a state of rebeUion. I promised to speak to the rebels on the subject, and enjoined on Kaonka the duty of giving them no offence. According to Sekeletu's order, Kaonka gave us the tribute of maize-corn and ground-nuts, which would otherwise have gone to Linyanti. This had been done at every village, and we thereby saved the people the trouble of a journey to the capital. My own Batoka had brought away such loads of pro- visions from their homes that we were in no want of food. After leaving Kaonka we travelled over an uninhabited, gently undulating, and most beautiful district, the border territory be- tween those who accept, and those who reject, the sway of the Makololo. The face of the country appears as if in long waves, running north and south. There are no rivers, though water stands in pools in the hollows. We were now come into the country which my people all magnify as a perfect paradise. Sebituane was driven from it by the Matebele. It suited him exactly for cattle, corn, and health. The soil is dry, and often a reddish sand ; there are few trees, but fine large shady ones stand dotted here and there over the country where towns formerly stood. One of the fig family I measured, and found to be forty feet in cu'cumference ; the heart had been burned out, and some one had made a lodging in it, for we saw the remains of a bed and a fire. The sight of the open countiy, with the in- creased altitude we were attaining, was most refreshing to the spirits. Large game abound. We see in the distance buffaloes, elands, hartebeest, gnus, and elephants, all very tame, as no one 542 THE KALOMO. Chap. XXVH. disturbs them. Lions, which always accompany other lafge ani- mals, roared about us, but as it was moonlight there was no danger. In the evening, wliile standing on a mass of gTanite, one began to roar at me, though it was still hght. The tem- peratm^e was pleasant, as the rains, though not imiversal, had fallen in many places. It was very cloudy, preventing observa- tions. The temperature at 6 a.m. was 70°, at midday 90°, m the evening 84°. Tliis is very pleasant on the high lands, with but Kttle moisture in the an-. The different rocks to the westward of Kaonl^a's, talcose gneiss, and white mica schist, generally chp towards the west, but at Kaonka's, lai'ge rounded masses of granite, containing black mica, began to appear. The outer rind of it inclines to peel off, and large crystals project on the exposed surface. In passing through some parts where a good shower of rain has fallen, the stridulous piercing notes of the cicadae are perfectly deafening ; a drab-colom-ed cricket joins the chorus with a sharp sound, which has as Kttle modulation as the drone of a Scottish bagpipe. I could not conceive how so smaU a tiling could raise such a sound ; it seemed to make the gi'ound over it tlnill. Wlien cicadae, crickets, and frogs unite, their music may be heard at the distance of a quarter of a mile. A tree attracted my attention as new, the leaves being like those of an acacia, but the ends of the branches from wliich they grew resembled closely oblong fir-cones. The corn poppy was abundant, and many of the trees, flowering bulbs and plants, were identical with those in Pungo Andongo. A flower, as white as the snowdrop, now begins to appear, and farther on, it spots the whole sward with its beautiful pure wliite. A fresh crop appears every morning, and if the day is cloudy they do not expand till the afternoon. In an hour or so they droo23 and die. They are named by the natives, fr'om their shape, "Tlaku ea pitse," hoof of zebra. I carried several of the somewhat bulbous roots of tliis pretty flower till I reached the Mam-itius. On the 30th we crossed the river Kalomo, wliich is about 50 yards broad, and is the only stream that never diies up on tliis ridge. The current is rapid, and its course is towards the south, as it joins the Zambesi at some distance below the faUs. The Ungues! and Lekone, with their feeders, flow westward, this river Chap. XXVII. COXFOEIVIATION OF COUXTRY. 543 to the south, and all those to which we are about to come, take an easterly direction. We were thus at the apex of the ridge, and found that, as water boiled at 202', our altitude above the level of the sea was over 5000 feet. Here the granite crops out again in gTcat rounded masses which change the dip of the gneiss and mica schist rocks from the westward to the eastward. In crossing the western ridge, I mentioned the clay-shale or keele formation, a section of which we have in the valley of the Quango : the strata there He nearly horizontal, but on this ridge the granite seems to have been the active agent of elevation, for the rocks, both on its east and west, abut against it. Both eastern and western ridges are knoT^Ti to be comparatively salubrious, and in this respect, as well as in the general aspect of the comitry, they resemble that most healthy of all healthy clipiates, the interior of South Afiica, near and adjacent to the Desert. Tliis ridge has neither fountain nor marsh upon it, and east of the Kalomo we look upon treeless undulating plains covered ^itli short grass. From a point somewhat near to the great falls, this ridge or oblong mound trends away to the N.E., and there treeless elevated plains again appear. Then again the ridge is said to bend away from the falls to the S.E., the Mashona country, or rather their mountains, appearing, accordiag to ISlr. ]\loffat, about four days east of Matlokotloko, the present residence of Mosilikatse. In reference to this ridge he makes the interesting remark, " I observed a number of the Angora goat, most of them being wliite ; and then- long soft hair covering then- enthe bodies to the ground made them look like animals moving along without feet." * It is impossible to say how much farther to the N. these subtending ridges may stretch. There is reason to beHeve that, though the same general form of country obtains, they are not flanked by abnipt hills between the latitude 12° S. and the equator. The iiiquuy is worthy the attention of travellers. As they are known to be favourable to health, the Makololo, who have been nearly all cut off by fevers in the valley, declar- ing that here they never had a headache, they may even be recommended as a sanatorium for those whose enterprise leads * Moffat's ' Visit to Mosilikatse,' — Eoyal Geog. Soc- Journal, vol. xxvi. p. 96. 544 CONFORMATION OF COUNTRY. Chap. XXYII. them into Afiica, eitlier for the advancement of scientific know- ledge, or for the purposes of trade or benevolence. In the case of the eastern ridge, we have water-carriage, with only one short rapid as an obstruction, right up to its base ; and if a quick passage can be effected during the healthy part of the year, there would be no danger of loss of health dm-ing a long stay on these high lands afterwai'ds. How much fmtlier do these liigh ridges extend ? The eastern one seems to bend in considerably towards the great falls; and the strike of the rocks indicating that, further to the X.N.E. than my investigations extend, it may not, at a few degTces of latitude beyond, be more than 300 or 350 miles from the coast. They at least merit inquiry, for they afford a prospect to Europeans, of situations superior in point of salubrity to any of those on the coast : and so on the western side of the continent ; for it is a fact that many parts in the interior of Angola, which were formerly thought to be unliealthy on account of their distance inland, have been found, as population advanced, to be the most healthy spots in the countiy. Did the gieat Niger expedition tm-n back when near such a deshable position for its stricken and prostrate meml^ers ? The distances from top to top of the ridges may be about 10° of longitude, or 600 geogi*apliical miles. I cannot hear of a liill oil either ridge, and there are scarcely any in the space enclosed by them. The Monakadze is the highest, but that is not more than a thousand feet above the flat valley. On account of this want of hills in the pai-t of the country wliich, by gentle undulations, leads one insensibly up to an altitude of 5000 feet above the level of the sea, I have adopted the agricultm-al term ridges, for they partake very much of the character of the oblong mounds with which we are all famihar. And we shall yet see that the mountains which are met with outside these ridges, are only a low fringe, many of wliich are not of much greater altitude than even the bottom of the great central valley. If we leave out of view the greater breadth of the central basin at other parts, and speak only of the comparatively narrow part formed by the bend to the westward of the eastern ridge, we might say that the form of tliis region is a broad furrow in the middle, mth an elevated ridge about 200 miles broad on either side, the land sloping thence, on both sides, to the sea. If I am right in believing the granite Chap. XXVU. WOUNDED BUFFALO ASSISTED. 545 to be tlie cause of tlie elevation of this ridge, the dhection in which the strike of the rocks trends to the N.N.E. may indicate tliat the same geological structure prevails farther north, and two or three lakes which exist in that du*ection, may be of exactly the same nature with lake Ngami ; having been dimi- nished to their present size by the same kind of agency as that which formed the falls of Victoria. We met an elephant on the Kalomo which had no tusks. This is as rare a thing in Africa, as it is to find them Avith tusks in Ceylon. As soon as she saw us she made off. It is remarkable to see the fear of man operating even on this huge beast. Buffa- loes abound, and we see large herds of them feeding in all direc- tions by day. Wlien much distm'bed by man, they retire into the densest parts of the forest, and feed by night only. We secured a fine large bull by crawling close to a herd : when shot, he fell doTO, and the rest, not seeing their enemy, gazed about, won- deiing where the danger lay. The others came back to it, and, when we showed om-selves, much to the amusement of my com- panions, they lifted him up with then- horns, and, half supporting him m the crowd, bore him away. All these wild animals usually gore a wounded companion and expel him from the herd ; even zebras bite and kick an unfortunate or a diseased one. It is intended by this instinct, that none but the perfect and healthy ones should propagate the species. In tliis case they manifested their usual propensity to gore the wounded, but oiu: appeai-ance at that moment caused them to take flight, and this, with the goring being continued a little, gave my men the impression that they were helping away their wounded companion. He was shot between the fom-th and fifth ribs ; the ball passed through both lungs and a rib on the opposite side, and then lodged beneath the skin. But though it was eight ounces in weight, yet he ran off some distance, and was secm-ed only by the people driving him into a pool of water and killing liim there with their spears. The herd ran away m the direction of our camp, and then came bounding past us again. We took refuge on a large ant-hill, and as they rushed by us at full gaUop, I had a good opportunity of seeing that the leader of a herd of about sixty, was an old cow ; all the others allowed her a fuU half-lengih in then front. On her withers sat about twenty buffalo-bhds (Textor erytlirorhynchus, 2 N 546 BUFFALO AND EHINOCEKOS BIRDS. Chap. XXYII. Smith), which act the part of guardian sphits to the animals. When the buffalo is quietly feeding, this bird may be seen hop- ping on the ground picking up food, or sitting on its back ridding it of the insects mth wliich their skins are sometimes infested. The sight of the bird being much more acute than that of the buffalo, it is soon alarmed by the approach of any danger, and, flying up, the buffaloes instantly raise their heads to discover the cause, wliich has led to the sudden flight of their guardian. They sometimes accompany the buffaloes in their flight on the wing, at other times they sit as above described. Another African bird, namely, the Buphaga Africana, attends the rliinoceros for a similar pm-pose. It is called " kala " in the language of the Bechuanas : when these people wish to express their dependence upon another, they address liim as " my rhino- ceros," as if they were the bh-ds. The satellites of a chief go by the same name. Tliis bhd cannot be said to depend entnely on the insects on that animal, for its hai'd hairless skin is a protection against all except a few spotted ticks ; but it seems to be attached to the beast, somewhat as the domestic dog is to man ; and while the buffalo is alarmed by the sudden flying up of its sentinel, the rlmioceros, not having keen sight, but an acute ear, is warned by the cry of its associate, the Buphaga Africana. The rhinoceros feeds by night, and its sentinel is frequently heard in the morning uttering its well-known call, as it searches for its bulky companion. One species of this bird, observed in Angola, possesses a bill of a peculiar scoop or stone forceps form, as if intended only to tear off msects from the skm ; and its claws are as sharp as needles, enabluig it to hang on to an animal's ear, wliile performing a useful service witliin it. This sharpness of the claws allows the bird to cling to the neai'ly insensible cuticle without irritating the nerves of pain on the true skm, exactly as a burr does to the human hand ; but in the case of the Buphaga Africana and erythrorhyncha, other food is partaken of, for we observed flocks of them roosting on the reeds, in spots where neither tame nor wild animals were to be found. The most wary animal in a herd is generally the " leader." When it is shot, the others often seem at a loss what to do, and stop in a state of bewilderment. I have seen them then attempt to follow each other and appear quite confused, no one knowing for HAP. XXVn. LEADERS OF HERDS— HOXEY-GUIDE. 547 half a minute or more where to direct the flight. On one occasion I happened to shoot the leader, a young zebra mare, wliich at some former time had been bitten on the hind leg by a carnivorous animal, and, thereby made unusually war}^, had in consequence become a leader. If they see either one of their own herd or any other animal taking to flight, wild animals invariably flee. The most timid thus natui'ally leads the rest. It is not any other peculiarity, but simply tliis pro\Tsion, which is given them for the preservation of the race. The great increase of wariness, ^^■llich is seen to occur, when the females bring forth their yoimg, causes all the leaders to be at that time females; and there is a probability that the separation of sexes into distinct herds, ^^'llich is annually observed in many antelopes, arises from the simple fact that the greater caution of the she antelopes is partaken of only by the young males, and their more frequent flights now, have the effect of leaving the old males behind. I am inclined to beheve this, because, though the antelopes, as the paUahs, &c., are frequently in separate herds, they are never seen in the act of expelling the males. There may be some other reason in the case of the elephants ; but the male and female elephants are never seen in one herd. The young males remain with their dams only until they are fuU grown, and so constantly is the separation mailitained, that any one familiar vrith. them, on seeiag a picture ^dth the sexes mixed, would immediately con- clude that the artist had made it from his imagination, and not from sight. December 2, 1855. — We remained near a small kill, called Maimdo, where we began to be frequently iavited by the honey- guide (Cuculus indicator). Wishiag to ascertain the truth of the native assertion that this bnd is a deceiver, and by its call some- times leads to a wild beast and not to honey, I iaquii-ed, if any of my men had ever been led by this friendly little bird to anythiag else, than what its name implies. Only one of the 114 could say he had been led to an elephant instead of a liive, hive myself ^N^ith the black rhinoceros mentioned before. I am quite conviaced that the majority of people who commit themselves to its guidance are led to honey, and to it alone. On the 3rd we crossed the river Mozuma, or river of Dila, having travelled through a beautifully imdulating pastoral coimtry. 2x2 5i8 WHITE MOUNTAIN— THE MOZUMA. Chap. XXVII. To the soutli, and a little east of this, stands the hill Taba Cheu, or " Wliite Mountain," from a mass of wliite rock, probably dolo- mite, on its top. But none of the hills are of any great altitude. When I heard tliis mountain described at Linyanti, I thought the glistening substance might be snow, and my informants were so loud in their assertions of its exceeding great altitude, that I was startled with the idea; but I had quite forgotten that I was speaking with men who had been accustomed to plains, and knew nothing of very high mountains. When I inquhed what the white sub- stance was, they at once repHed it was a kind of rock. I expected to have come nearer to it, and would have ascended it ; but we were led to go to the north-east. Yet I doubt not that the native testimony of its being stone, is true. The distant ranges of liills wliich line the banks of the Zambesi on the south-east, and land- scapes which permit the eye to range over twenty or thirty miles at a time, with short grass under our feet, were especially refreslung sights to those who had travelled for months together, over the confined views of the flat forest, and among the tangled rank herbage of the great valley. The Mozuma, or river of Dila, was the first watercom'se wliicli indicated that we were now on the slopes towai'ds the eastern coast. It contained no flowing water, but revealed in its banks what gave me gTcat pleasure at the time ; pieces of lignite, possibly indicating the existence of a mineral, namely, coal, the want of which in the central country I had always deplored. Again and again we came to the ruins of large towns, containing the only hieroglyphics of this country, worn millstones, with the roimd ball of quartz with which the gi'inding was effected. Great numbers of these balls were lying about, showing that the depopulation had been the result of war, for, had the people removed in peace, they would have taken the balls with them. At the river of Dila, we saw the spot where Sebituane lived, and Sekwebu pomted out the heaps of bones of cattle, which the Makololo had been obHged to slaughter, after performing a march with great herds captured from the Batoka, tln-ough a patch of the fatal tsetse. AVhen Sebituane saw the symptoms of the poison, he gave orders to his people to eat the cattle. He still had vast numbers; and when the Matebele, crossing the Zambesi opposite tliis part, came to attack him, he invited the Chap. XXYU. PROPHETIC FEEXZY. 549 Batoka to take repossession of their herds, he having so many as to be unable to guide them in their flight. The country was at that time exceedingly rich in cattle, and, besides pastiu-age, it is all well adapted for the cultivation of native produce. Being on the eastern slope of the ridge, it receives more rain than any part of the westward. Seksvebu had been instructed to point out to me the advantages of this position for a settlement, as that which all the Makololo had never ceased to regret. It needed no eulogy from Sekwebu ; I admired it myself, and the enjoyment of good health in fine open scenery, had an exliilarating eifect on my spuits. The great want was population, the Batoka having all taken refuge in the liills. We were now in the ^dcinity of those wliom the Makololo deem rebels, and felt some anxiety as to how ^ve should be received. On the 4th Ave reached their first village. Kemaining at a distance of a quarter of a mile, we sent two men to inform them who we were, and that our purposes were peaceful. The head-man came and spoke civilly, but when nearly dark, the people of another village arrived and behaved very differently. They began by trying to spear a yoimg man who had gone for water. Then they approached us, and one came forward howling at the top of his voice in the most hideous manner ; liis eyes were shot out, his lips covered with foam, aiKl eveiy muscle of his frame quiv ered. He came near to me, and, having a small battle-axe in his hand, alarmed my men lest he might do violence ; but they were afraid to disobey my previous orders, and to follow their own inclination by knocking liim on the head. I felt a Httle alarmed, too, but would not show fear before my o^yn people or strangers, and kept a sharp look-out on the little battle-axe. It seemed to me a case of extacy or prophetic frenz)^ voluntarily produced. I felt it would be a sorry way to leave the world, to get my head chopped by a mad savage, though that perhaps would be preferable to hydrophobia or deKrium tremens. Selvwebu took a spear in liis hand, as if to pierce a bit of leather, but in reality to plunge it into the man if he offered violence to me. After my comage had been sufficiently tested, I beckoned with the head to the ci^dl head-man to remove liim, and he chd so by cbawmg liim aside. This man pretended not to Imow what he was doing. I would fain have felt his pulse, to ascertain whether the violent trembhng were not 550 FOOD OF THE ELEPHANT. Chap. XXYII. feigned, but had not much inchnation to go near the battle-axe again. There was, however, a flow of perspiration, and the ex- citement continued fully half an hour, then gradually ceased. This paroxysm is the direct opposite of h}^onotisni, and it is sin- gular that it has not been tried in Em-ope as well as clairvoyance. This second batch of visitors took no pains to conceal their contempt for our small party, saying to each other in a tone of triumph, "They are quite a God-send!" literally, "God has apportioned them to us." "' They are lost among the tribes ! " " They have wandered in order to be destroyed, and what can they do without shields among so many?" Some of them asked if there were no other parties. Sekeletu had ordered my men not to take their shields, as in the case of my first company. We were looked upon as unarmed, and an easy prey. We prepared against a night attack by discharging and reloading our guns, which were exactly the same in number (five) as on the former occasion, as I allowed my late companions to retain those which I purchased at Loanda. We were not molested, but some of the enemy tried to lead us toAvards the Bashukulompo, who are considered to be the fiercest race in this quarter. As we knew our direction to the confluence of the Kafue and Zambesi, we declined theu' guidance, and the civil head-man of the evening before, then came along with us. Crowds of natives hovered round us in the forest ; but he ran for- ward and explained, and we were not molested. That night we slept by a httle village under a low range of hills, which are called Chizamena. The country here is more woody than on the high lands we had left, but the trees are not in general large. Great numbers of them have been broken off by elephants, a foot or two from the ground : they thus seem pollarded from that point. This animal never seriously lessens the number of trees ; indeed I have often been struck by the very httle damage he does in a forest. His food consists more of bulbs, tubers, roots, and branches, than anything else. Wiere they have been feeding, great numbers of trees, as thick as a man's body, are seen twisted down or broken off, in order that they may feed on the tender shoots at the tops. They are said sometunes to unite in A^Tenching doym large trees. The natives in the interior beheve that the elephant never touches grass, and I never saw evidence of liis having grazed until we came near to Tete, and then he had fed on grass in seed only ; this CiiAP. XXVII. CLOTHING DESPISED. 551 seed contains so much farinaceous matter, that the natives collect it for their own food. This part of the country abounds in ant-hills. In the open parts they are studded over the surface exactly as haycocks are in harvest, or heaps of manure in spring, rather disfigm-ing the land- scape. In the woods they are as large as round haystacks, 40 or 50 feet in diameter at the base, and at least 20 feet high. These are more fertile than the rest of the land, and here they are the chief garden-groimd for maize, pumpkins, and tobacco. When we had passed the outskirting villages, which alone con- sider themselves in a state of war with the Makololo, we found the Batoka, or Batonga, as they here call themselves, quite friendly. Great numbers of them came from aU the surrounding villages, with presents of maize and masuka, and expressed great joy at the first appearance of a .'white man, and harbinger of peace. The women clothe themselves better than the Balonda, but the men go in purts naturalihus. They walk about without the smallest sense of shame. They have even lost the trachtion of the " figleaf." I asked a fine large-bodied old man, if he did not tliink it would be better to adopt a little covering. He looked with a pitying leer, and laughed with surprise at my tliinking him at all indecent : he evidently considered himself above such weak super- stition. I told them that on my return I should have my family with me, and no one must come near us in that state. " Wliat shall we put on ? we have no clothing." It was considered a good joke when I told them that, if they had nothing else, they must put on a bunch of grass. The further we advanced, the more we found the country s^^^arm- mg with inhabitants. Great numbers came to see the wliite man, a sight they had never beheld before. They always brovight presents of maize and masuka. Their mode of salutation is quite singular. They throw themselves on their backs on the ground, and, rolluig from side to side, slap the outside of their tliighs as expressions of thankfulness and welcome, uttering the words, "Kina bomba." This method of salutation was to me very disagreeable, and I never could get reconciled to it. I called out " Stop, stop ! I don't want that ; " but they, imagining I was dissatisfied, only tumbled about more furiously, and slapped their thighs with greater vigour. The men being totally unclothed, this performance 552 EFFECTS OF THE GOSPEL. CiiAP. XXVII. imparted to my mind a painful sense of their extreme degrada- tion. My own Batoka were much more degraded than the Barotse, and more reckless. We had to keep a strict watch, so as not to be involved by their thieving from the inhabitants, in whose country and power we were. We had also to watch the use they made of then" tongues, for some within hearing of the villagers would say, " I broke all the pots of that village," or, " I kiUed a man there." They were eager to recount their soldier deeds, when they were in comi^any with the Makololo in former times, as a conquering army. They were thus placing us in danger by then- remarks. I called them together, and spoke to them about their folly; and gave them a pretty plain intimation that I meant to insist upon as complete subordination as I had secured in my former journey, as bemg necessary for the safety of the party. Happily it never was needful to resort to any other measure for then- obedience, as they aU beHeved that I would enforce it. In connection with the low state of the Batoka, I was led to think on the people of Km-uman, Avho were equally degraded and equally depraved. There a man scorned to shed a tear. It would have been "tlolo," or transgTCssion. Weeping, such as Dr. Kane describes among the Esquimaux, is therefore quite unknown in that country. But I have mtnessed instances like this : Baba, a mighty hunter — the interpreter who accompanied Captain Harris, and who was ultimately killed by a rhinoceros — sat listening to the gospel in the church, at Kuruman, and the gracious words of Clnist, made to touch his heart, evidently by the Holy Spirit, melted him into tears ; I have seen him and others sink down to the ground weeping. Wlien Baba was lying mangled by the fiurious beast which tore him off his horse, he shed no tear, but quietly prayed as long as he was conscious. I had no hand in his instruction : if these Batoka ever become like him, and they may, the influence that effects it must be divine. . A very large portion of this quarter is covered witli masuka- trees, and the ground was so strewed with the pleasant fruit, that my men kept eating it constantly, as we marched along. We saw a smaller kind of the same tree named Molondo, the fruit of which is about the size of marl^les, having a tender skm, and shght acidity of taste mingled with its sweetness. Another tree Avhich Chap. XXYH. THE CAPTIYE RELEASED. 553 is said to yield good fruit is named Sombo, but it was not ripe at this season. December 6th. — We passed the night near a series of villages. Before we came to a stand under our tree, a man came rumiing to us with hands and arms firmly bound with cords beliind his back, entreating me to release him. When I had dismounted, the head-man of the village advanced, and I inquired the pri- soner's offence. He stated that he had come from the Bashu- kulompo as a fugitive, and he had given liim a wife and garden, and a supply of seed ; but on refusing a demand for more, the prisoner had threatened to kill him, and had been seen the night before, skulking about the village, apparently with that intention. I declined interceding, imless he would confess to his father-m-law, and promise amendment. He at first refused to promise to abstain from violence, but aftersvards agreed. The father-in-law then said that he would take him to the village and release liim, but the prisoner cried out bitterly, " He will kill me there ; don't leave me, white man." I ordered a knife, and one of the villagers released liim on the spot His arms were cut by the cords, and he was quite lame from the blows he had received. These villagei-s supplied us abundantly mth ground-nuts, maize, and com. All expressed great satisfaction on hearing my message, as I directed their attention to J esus as their Sa\iom', whose word is " Peace on earth and good will to men." They called out, " We are tired of flight ; give us rest and sleep." They of course did not understand the full import of the message, but it was no wonder that they eagerly seized the idea of peace. Their country has been visited by successive scourges during the last half-century, and they are now " a nation scattered and peeled." When Sebituane came, the cattle were innumerable, and yet these were the remnants only, left by a chief called Pingola, who came from the north-east. He swept across the whole territory inhabited by his cattle-loving countr^nnen, devom-ing oxen, cows, and calves, mthout retaining a single head. He seems to have been actuated by a simple love of conquest, and is an instance of what has occurred two or three times in every century in this country, from time immemorial. A man of more energy or ambition than his fellows, rises up and conquers a large tenitory, 554 MONZE'S VILLAGE. CiiAP. XXVU. but as soon as lie dies, the power he built up is gone, and his reign, having been one of terror, is not perpetuated. This, and the want of literature, have prevented the estabhshment of any great empire in the interior of Africa. Pingola effected his conquests, by carrying numbers of smith's belloAvs with liim. The arrow-heads were heated before shooting into a town, and when a wound was inflicted on either man or beast, great confusion ensued. After Pingola, came Sebituane, and after liim the Matebele of Mosilikatse; and these successive inroads have re- duced the Batoka to a state, in which they naturally rejoice at the prospect of deliverance and peace. We spent Sunday the 10th at Monze's village, who is con- sidered the chief of all the Batoka we have seen. He lives near the hill Kisekise, whence we have a view of at least tliirty miles of open undulating country, covered with short grass, and having but few trees. These open lawns would in any other land, as well as tliis, be termed pastoral, but the people have now no cattle, and only a few goats and fowls. They are located all over the country in small villages, and cultivate large gardens. They are said to have adopted this wide-spread mode of habita- tion, in order to give alarm should any enemy appear. In former times they hved in large towns. In the distance (S.E.) we see ranges of dark mountains along the banks of the Zambesi, and are told of the existence there of the rapid named Kansala, which is said to impede the navigation. The river is reported to be jDlacid above that as far as the territory of Sinamane, a Batoka chief, who is said to command it after it emerges smooth again below the falls. Kansala is the only rapid reported in the river until we come to Kebrabasa, twenty or thirty miles above Tete. On the north, we have mountains appearing above the horizon, which are said to be on the banks of the Kafue. The chief Monze came to us on Sunday morning, wrapped in a large cloth, and rolled liimseLf about in the dust, screaming " Kina bomba," as they all do. The sight of great naked men wallowuig on the ground, though intended to do me honour, was always veiy painful ; it made me feel thanldul that my lot had been cast in such different circumstances from that of so many of my fellow-men. One of his wives accompanied lum ; she would have been comely if her teeth had been spared ; she had a httle Chap. XXVII. FRIENDLY FEELIXGS TOWARDS ErEOPEAXS. 555 battle-axe in her hand, and helped her husband to scream. She was much excited, for she had never seen a white man before. We rather hked Monze, for he soon felt at home amongst us, and kept up conversation during much of the day. One head-man of a village after another arrived, and each of them supplied us Uberally mth maize, ground-nuts, and com. Monze gave us a goat and a fowl, and appeared highly satisfied -v^ith a present of some handkerchiefs I had got in my suppHes left at the island. Being of printed cotton, they, excited great admiration ; and when I put a gaudy-coloured one as a shawl about his child, he said that he would send for all his people to make a dance about it. In telling them that my object was to open up a path, whereby they might, by getting merchandize for ivory, avoid the guilt of selling their children, I asked Monze, with about 150 of his men, if they would Uke a white man to live amongst them and teach them. All expressed high satisfaction at the prospect of the white man and his path : they would protect both liim and liis property. I asked the question, because it would be of great importance to have stations in this healthy region, whither agents oppressed by sickness might retire, and which would serve, moreover, as part of a chain of communication between the interior and the coast. The answer does not mean much more than what I know, by other means, to be the case, — that a white man of good sense would be welcome and safe in all these parts. By upright- ness, and laying himself out for the good of the people, he would be known aU over the country as a henef actor of the race. None desire Christian instruction, for of it they have no idea. But the people are now humbled by the scourgings they have received, and seem to be in a favourable state for the reception of the Gospel. The gradual restoration of their former pros- perity in cattle, simultaneously Tvdth instruction, would operate beneficially upon their minds. The language is a dialect of the other negro languages in the great valley; and as many of the Batoka Hving under the Makololo understand both it and the Sichuana, missionaries could soon acquire it through that medium. Monze had never been visited by any white man, but had seen black native traders, who, he said, came for ivory, not for slaves. He had heard of white men passing far to the east of him to 556 BASHUKULOMPO HAIE-DRESSING. Chap. XXVH. Cazembe, refemng, no doubt, to Pereira, Lacerda, and others, who have visited that chief. The streams in this part are not perennial ; I did not observe one suitable for the purpose of irrigation. There is but little wood ; here and there you see large single trees, or small clumps of evergreens, but the abundance of maize and ground-nuts we met with, shows that more rain falls than in the Bechuana country, for there they never attem23t to raise maize, except in damp hollows on the banks of rivers. The pasturage is very fine for botli cattle and sheep. My own men, who Imow the land thorouglily, declare that it is all garden-gi'ound together, and that the more tender grains, which require richer soil than the native corn, need no care here. It is seldom stony. The men of a village came to om- encampment, and, as they followed the Bashukulompo mode of dressing their hair, we had an opportunity of examining it for the first time. A circle of hair at the top of the head, eight inches or more in diameter, is woven mto a cone eight or ten inches high, with an obtuse apex, bent, in some cases, a Httle forward, giving it somewhat the appearance of a helmet. Some have only a cone, four or five inches m diameter at the base. It is said that the hau' of ani- mals is added, but the sides of the cone are woven something Hke basket-work. The headman of tliis village, instead of having liis brought to a point, had it prolonged into a wand, wliich extended a fuU yard from the crown of his head. The hair on the forehead, above the ears, and behind, is aU shaven off, so they appear somewhat as if a cap of Hberty were cocked upon the top of the head. After the weaving is performed it is said to be painful, as the scalp is drawn tightly up ; but they become used to it. Monze informed me that aU his people were formerly ornamented in tliis way, but he discouraged it. I wished him to discourage the practice of knocking out the teeth, too, but he smiled, as if in that case the fashion would be too strong for him, as it was for Sebituane. Monze came on Monday morning, and, on parting, presented us with a piece of a buffalo wliich had been Idlled the day before by lions. We crossed the rivulet Makoe, which runs west- ward into the Kafue, and went northwards in order to visit Semalembue, an influential chief there. We slept at the village CaAP. XXVir. GRATrTUDE OF THE RELEASED CAPTIVE. 557 Bashukulompo mode of wearing the hair. of Monze's sister, who also passes by the same name. Both he and his sister are feminine in then- appearance, but disfigured by the foolish custom of Imocking out the upper front teeth. It is not often that jail-bnds turn out well, but the first person who appeared to welcome us at the village of Monze's sister, was the prisoner we had released in the way. He came with a handsome present of com and meal, and, after praising our kind- ness to the villagers who had assembled around us, asked them, *'What do you stand gazing at? don't you knoAV that they have 558 DIP OF EOCKS. Chap. XXVH. mouths like other people ? " He then set off and brought large bundles of grass and wood for our comfort, and a pot to cook our food in. December 12th. — The morning presented the appearance of a continuous rain fi'om the north, the first time we had seen it set in from that quarter in such a southern latitude. In the Bechuana country, continuous rains are always from the north- east or east, while in Londa and Angola they are from the north. At Pungo Andongo, for instance, the whitewash is all removed from the north side of the houses. It cleared up, however, about midday, and Monze's sister conducted us a mile or two upon the road. On parting, she said that she had forwarded orders to a distant village, to send food to the point where we should sleep. In expressing her joy at the prospect of living in peace, she said it would be so pleasant to sleep without dreaming of any one pm-suing them with a spear." In our front we had ranges of hills caUed Chamai, covered with trees. We crossed the ri\Tilet Nakachinta, flowing west- wards mto the Kafue, and then passed over ridges of rocks of the same mica schist which we found so abundant in Golungo Alto ; here they were surmounted by reddish porphpy and finely lami- nated felspatliic grit with trap. The dip, however, of these rocks, is not towards the centre of the continent as in Angola, for ever since we passed the masses of granite on the Kalomo, the rocks, cliiefly of mica schist, dip away from them, taking an easterly direction. A decided change of dip occurs again when we come near the Zambesi, as will be noticed further on. The hills wliich flank that river, now appeared on our right as a high dark range, wliile those near the Kafue, have the aspect of a low blue range, mth openings between. We crossed two never-failing rivulets also flowing into the Kafue. The country is very fertile, but vegetation is nowhere rank. The boiling point of water bemg 204^, showed that we were not yet as low down as Linyanti ; but we had left the masuka-trees behind us, and many others with wliich we had become familiar. A feature common to the forests of Angola and Benguela, namely the presence of orchilla- weed and Hchens on the trees, with mosses on the ground, began to appear ; but we never, on any part of the eastern slope, saw the abundant crops of ferns which are met with everywhere in cuAP. xxvn. BIRDS AXD RAIN. 559 Angola. The orcliilla-weed and mosses, too, were in but small quantities. As we passed along, tlie people continued to supply us with food in great abundance. They had by some means or other got a knowledge that I carried medicine, and somewhat to the disgust of my men, who wished to keep it all to themselves, brought their sick cliildren for cure. Some of them I found had hooping- cough, which is one of the few epidemics that range through this country. In passing through - the woods, I, for the first time, heard the bird called Mokwa reza, or "Son-iu-law of God" (Micropogon sulphuratus ?), utter its cry, wliich is supposed by the natives to be *' pula, pula " (rain, rain). It is said to do this only before heavy faUs of rain. It may be a cuckoo, for it is said to thi'ow out the eggs of the white-backed Senegal crow, and lay its own instead. Tliis, combiaed with the cry for rain, causes the bird to be regarded with favom\ The crow, on the other hand, has a bad repute, and when rain is withheld, its nest is sought for and destroyed, m order to dissolve the charm by which it is supposed to seal up the 's\'indows of heaven. All the other birds now join iu full chorus in the morrongs ; and two of them, at least, have fine loud notes. 5G0 EFFECT OF EAINS. Chap. XXVIH. CHAPTER XXVIII. Beautiful valley — Buffalo — My young men kill two elephants — The hunt — Mode of measuring height of live elephants — Wild animals smaller here than in the south, though their food is more abundant — The elephant a dainty feeder — Semalembue — His presents — Joy in prospect of living in peace — Trade — His people's way of wearing their hair — Their mode of salutation — Old encampment — Sebituane's fonner residence — Ford of Kafue — Hippopotami — Hills and villages — Geological formation — Pro- digious quantities of large game — Their tameness — Rains — Less sick- ness than in the journey to Loanda — Reason — Charge from an elephant — Vast amount of animal life on the Zambesi — Water of river discoloured — An island with buffaloes and men on it — Native devices for killing game • — Tsetse now in country — Agricultural industry — An Albino murdered by Ills mother — "Guilty of tlolo" — Women who make their mouths " like those of ducks" — First symptom of the slave-trade on this side — Selole's hostility — An armed party hoaxed — An Italian marauder slain — Elephant's tenacity of life — A word to young sportsmen — Mr. Oswell's adventure with an elephant ; narrow escape — Mburuma's village — Sus- picious conduct of his people — Guides attempt to detain us — The village and people of Ma Mburuma — Character our guides give of us. ISth. — The countiy is becoming very beautiful, and fuiTowed by deep valleys ; the underlying rocks, being igneous, have yielded fertile soil. There is gi*eat abundance of large game. The buffaloes select open spots, and often eminences, as standing- places thi'ough the day. We crossed the Mbai, and found in its bed, rocks of pink marble. Some Kttle hills near it are capped by marble of beautiful ^yhiteness, the underlying rock being igneous. Violent showers occur frequently on the liills, and cause such sudden sweeping floods in these rivulets, that five of our men, who had gone to the other side for firewood, were obliged to swim back. The tem2)erature of the an- is lowered considerably by the daily rains. Several times the thermometer at sunrise has been as low^ as 68°, and 74° at sunset. Generally, how- ever, it stood at from 72° to 74° at sunrise, 90° to 96° at midday, and 80° to 84° at sunset. The sensation, however, as before remarked, was not disagTeeable. 14.th. — We entered a most beautiful valley, abomiding in large Chap. XXYHT. ELEPHANT-HUNTIXG. 561 game. Finding a buffalo lying dovm., I went to secure liim for our food. Three balls did not kill him, and, as he turned round as if for a charge, we ran for the shelter of some rocks. Before we gained them, we found that three elephants, probably attracted by the strange noise, had cut off om* retreat on that side : they, however, turned short off, and allowed us to gain the rocks. We then saw that the buffalo was mo^dng off quite brisldy, and in order not to be entirely balked, I tried a long shot at the last of the elephants, and, to the great joy of my people, broke his fore- leg. The young men' soon brought him to a stand, and one shot in the brain despatched him. I was right glad to see the joy manifested at such an abundant supply of meat. On the following day, while my men were cutting up the elephant, great numbers of the villagers came to enjoy the feast. We were on the side of a fine, green valley, studded here and there with trees, and cut by numerous rivulets. I had retired from the noise, to take an observation among some rocks of laminated grit, when I beheld an elephant and her calf at the end of the valley, about two miles distant. The calf was rolling in the mud, and the dam was standing fanning herself with her great ears. As I looked at them through my glass, I saw a long string of my own men appearing on the other side of them, and Sekwebu came and told me that these had gone off, saying, " Our father will see to-day what sort of men he has got." I then went higher up the side of the valley, in order to have a dis- tinct view of their mode of hunting. The goodly beast, totally unconscious of the approach of an enemy, stood for some time suckling her young one, which seemed about two years old ; they then went into a pit containing mud, and smeared themselves all over with it, the little one frisking about his dam, flappmg liis ears and tossing his trunk incessantly, in elephantine fasliion. She kept flapping her ears and wagging her tail, as if in the height of enjo}Tnent. Then began the piping of her enemies, which was performed by blowing into a tube, or the hands closed together, as boys do into a key. They call out to attract the animal's attention — " 0 chief ! chief ! we have come to kill you. 0 chief ! chief ! many more will die besides yon, &c. The gods have said it," &c. &c. 2 o 562 ELEPHANT-HUNTING. Chap. XXYHI. Both animals expanded their ears and listened, then left their bath as the crowd rushed towards them. The Httle one ran for- ward towards the end of the valley, but, seemg the men there, retm-ned to his dam. She placed herseK on the danger side of her calf, and passed her proboscis over it again and again, as if to assure it of safety. She fi'equently looked back to the men, who kept up an incessant shouting, singing, and piping ; then looked at her young one and ran after it, sometimes sideways, as if her feeKiigs were divided between anxiety to protect her offspring, and deshe to revenge the temerity of her persecutors. The men kept about a hundred yards in her rear, and some, that distance from her flanks, and continued thus until she was obKged to cross a rivulet. The time spent in descending and getting up the oppo- site bank, allowed of then- coming up to the edge, and dis- charging their spears at about twenty yards distance. After the fii'st discharge, she appeared with her sides red with blood, and, beginning to flee for her oto life, seemed to tliink no more of her young. I had previously sent off Sekwebu with orders to spare the calf. It ran very fast, but neither young nor old ever enter into a gallop ; theh quickest pace is only a sharp walk. Before Sekwebu could reach them, the calf had taken refuge in the water, and was killed. The pace of the dam gradually became slower. She turned with a shiiek of rage, and made a furious charge back among the men. They vanished at right angles to her course, or sideways, and, as she ran straight on, she went through the whole party, but came near no one, exce'pt a man who wore a piece of cloth on his shoulders. Bright clothing is always dangerous in these cases. She charged three or four times, and, except in the first instance, never went farther than 100 yards. She often stood after she had crossed a rivulet, and faced the men, though she received fresh spears. It was by this process of spearing and loss of blood that she was killed, for at last, making a short charge, she staggered round and sanli down dead in a kneeling postm^e. I did not see the whole hunt, having been tempted away by both sun and moon appearing unclouded. I tm-ned from the spectacle of the destmction of noble animals, which might be made so useful in Africa, with a feehng of sickness, and it was not re- lieved by the recollection that the ivoiy was mine, though that Avas the case. I regTctted to see them killed, and more especially Chap. XXVIIT. MODE OF MEASURING ELEPHANTS. 563 the young one, the meat not being at all necessary at that time ; but it is right to add, that I did not feel sick when my own blood was up the day before. We ought perhaps to judge those deeds more leniently in which we ourselves have no temptation to engage. Had I not been previously guilty of doing the very same thing, I might have prided myself on superior humanity, when I experienced the nausea in viewing my men kill these two. The elephant first killed was a male, not full grown ; his height at the withers 8 feet 4 inches; cucumference of the fore foot 44 inches X 2 = 7 feet 4 inches. The female was full groTNH, and measured in height 8 feet 8 inches ; circumference of the fore foot 48 inches x 2 = 8 feet (96 inches). We afterwards found, that full-gTown male elephants of this region ranged in height at the withers from 9 feet 9 inches to 9 feet 10 inches ; and the cir- cumference of the fore foot to be 4 feet 9^ inches x 2 = 9 feet 7 inches. These details are given because the general rule has been observed, that twice the circumference of the impression made by the fore foot on the ground, is the height of the animal. The print on the ground being a httle larger than the foot itself, would thus seem to be an accurate mode of measuring the size of any elephant that has passed; but the above measurements show, that it is apphcable only to full-growTi animals. The greater size of the African elephant in the south, would at once distinguish it from the Indian one ; but here they approach more nearly to each other in bulk, a female being about as large as a common Indian male. But the ear of the African is an external mark which no one will mistake even in a picture. That of the female now killed, was 4 feet 5 inches in depth, and 4 feet in horizontal breadth. I have seen a native creep imder one so as to be quite covered fr'om the rain. The ear of the Indian variety is not more than a third of this size. The repre- sentation of elephants on ancient coins shows that this important characteristic was distinctly recognised of old. Indeed, Cuvier remarked that it was better known by Aristotle than by Buffon. Having been anxious to learn whether the xlfrican ele^Aant is capable of being tamed, through the kindness of my friend Admiral Smyth, I am enabled to give the reader conclusive evi- dence on this point. In the two medals furnished from liis work, * A descriptive Catalogue of his Cabinet of Koman and Imperial 2 o 2 564 mLD ANIMALS SMALLER Chap. XXYIIL i large brass Medals,' the size of the ears will be at once noted as those of the true African elephant. They were even more docile than the Asiatic, and were taught various feats, as walking on ropes, dancing, &c. One of the coins is of Faustina senior, the other of Septimius Severus, and struck A.D. 197. These elephants were brought from Africa to Eome. The attempt to tame this most useful animal has never been made at the Cape, nor has one ever been exhibited in England. There is only one very young calf of the species in the British Museum. The abundance of food ia this country, as compared with the south, would lead one to suppose that animals here must attain a much greater size; but actual measurement now confums the impression made on my miad by the mere sight of the animals, that those in the districts north of 20° were smaller than the same races existuig southward of that latitude. The first time that Mr. Oswell and myself saw full-grown male elephants on the river Zouga, they seemed no larger than the females, (which are always smaller than males,) we had met on the Limpopo. There they attain a height of upwards of 12 feet. At the Zouga the height of one I measm-ed was 11 feet 4 inches, and in this district 9 feet 10 inches. There is, however, an increase in the size of the tusks as we approach the equator. Unfortu- nately, I never made measurements of other animals in the south ; but the appearance of the animals themselves in the north, at once produced the impression on my mind referred to, as to their decrease in size. When we first saw koodoos, they were so much smaller than those we had been accustomed to m the south, that we doubted whether they were not a new kind of antelope ; and the leche, seen nowhere south of 20°, is succeeded by the poku as we go north. This is, in fact, only a smaller species of that ante- Chap. XXVIH. WHERE FOOD MOST ABUNDANT. 565 lope, with a more reddish colour. A great difference in size prevails also among domestic animals ; but the influence of locality on them is not so well marked. The cattle of the Batoka, for instance, are exceedingly small and very beautiful, possessing generally gi*eat breadth between the eyes and a very playful disposition. They are much smaller than the aboriginal cattle in the south ; but it must be added that those of the Barotse valley, in the same latitudes as the Batoka, are large. The breed may have come from the west, as the cattle within the influence of the sea air, as at tittle Fish Bay, Benguela, Ambriz, and along that coast, are very large. Those found at Lake Ngami, with large horns and standing 6 feet liigh, probably come fi'om the same quarter. The goats are also small, and domestic fowls throughout this country are of a very small size, and even dogs, except where the inhabitants have had an opportunity of improving the breed by importation from the Portuguese. As the Barotse cattle are an exception to this general rule, so are the Barotse dogs, for they are large savage-lookmg animals, though in reality very cowardly. It is a Httle remarkable, that a decrease in size should occur where food is the most abundant ; but tropical climates seem unfavourable for the full development of either animals or man. It is not from want of care in the breeding, for the natives always choose the larger and stronger males for stock, and the same arrangement prevails in nature, for it is only by overcoming their weaker rivals, that the wild males obtain possession of the herd. Invariably they show the scars received in battle. The elephant we killed yester- day had an umbihcal hernia as large as a child's head, probably caused by the charge of a rival. The cow showed scars received from men ; two of the wounds in her side were still unhealed, and there was an orifice six inches long and open in her proboscis, and, as it was about a foot from the point, it must have interfered with her power of lifting water. In estimating the amoimt of food necessary for these and other large animals, sufficient attention has not been paid to the kinds chosen. The elephant, for instance, is a most dainty feeder, and particularly fond of certain sweet-tasted trees and fruits. He chooses the mohonono, the mimosa, and other trees which con- tain much saccharine matter, mucilage, and gum. He may be seen putting his head to a lofty pahn^Ta, and swaying it to and fro -I 566 GEOLOGICAL STEUCTURE. Chap. XXYIH. to shake off the seeds ; he then picks them up singly and eats them. Or he may be seen standing by the masuka and other fruit trees, patiently picking off the sweet fruits one by one. He also digs up bulbs and tubers, but none of these are thoroughly digested. Bruce remarked upon the undigested bits of wood seen in their droppings, and he must have observed, too, that neither leaves nor seeds are changed, by passing through the alimentary canal. The woody fibre of roots and branches is dropped in the state of tow, the nutritious matter alone having been extracted. This capa- bility of removing all the nourishment, and the selection of those kinds of food which contain great quantities of mucilage and gum, • accounts for the fact that herds of elephants produce but small effect upon the vegetation of a country — quahty being more requisite than quantity. The amount of internal fat found in them makes them much prized by the inhabitants, who are all very fond of it, both for food and ointment. After leaving the elephant valley, we passed though a very beautiful country, but thinly inhabited by man. The underlying rock is trap, and dykes of talcose gneiss. The trap is often seen tilted on its edge, or dipping a little either to the north or south. The strike is generally to the N.E., the direction we are going. About Losito we found the trap had given place to hornblende schist, mica scliist, and various schorly rocks. We had now come into the region, in which the appearance of the rocks, conveys the impression of a great force having acted along the bed of the Zambesi. Indeed I was led to the belief, from seeing the manner in which the rocks have been thrust away on both sides fr'om its bed, that the power which formed the crack of the falls, had given direction to the river below, and opened a bed for it all the way from the falls to beyond the gorge of Lupata. Passing the rivulet Losito, and through the ranges of liills, we reached the residence of Semalembue on the 18th. His village is situated at the bottom of ranges through which the Kafue finds a passage, and close to the bank of that river. The Kafue, sometimes called Kahowhe or Bashukulompo river, is upwards of 200 yards wide here, and full of hippopotami, the young of which may be seen perched on the necks of their dams. At this point we had reached about the same level as Linyanti. CiiAP. XXVIII. SEMALEMBUE AND HIS PEOPLE. 567 Semalembue paid us a visit soon after our amval, and said tliat he had often heard of me, and now that he had the pleasure of seeing me, he feared that I should sleep the first night at his village hungry. This was considered the handsome way of introducing a present, for he then handed five or six baskets of meal and maize, and an enormous one of ground-nuts. Next morning he gave about tAventy baskets more of meal. I could make but a poor return for his kindness, but he accepted my apologies poKtely, saying that he knew there were no goods in the country from which I had come, and, in professing great joy at the words of peace I spoke, he said, " Now I shall cultivate largely, in the hope of eating and sleeping in peace." It is noticeable that all whom we have yet met, eagerly caught up the idea of living in peace as the probable effect of the gospel. They require no explanation of the existence of the Deity. Sekwebu makes use of the term Keza," and they appear to understand at once. Like negroes in general, they have a strong tendency to worship, and I heard that Semalembue gets a good deal of ivory from the surrounding tribes, on pretence of having some super- natural power. He transmits tliis to some other cliiefs on the Zambesi, and receives in return English cotton goods which come from Mozambique by Babisa traders. My men here began to sell their beads and other ornaments for cotton cloth. Sema- lembue was accompanied by about forty people, all large men. They have much wool on their heads, which is sometimes dra^Mi all together up to the cro^AH, and tied there in a large tapering bunch. The forehead, and round by the ears, is shaven close to the base of this tuft. Others draw out the han on one side, and tAvist it into Httle strings. The rest is taken over, and hangs above the ear, which gives the appearance of having a cap cocked jauntily on the side of the head. The mode of salutation is by clappiag the hands. Various parties of women came from the surrounding villages to see the white man, but all seemed very much afraid. Their fear, which I seldom could allay, made them, when addressed, clap their hands with increasiag vigour. Sekwebu was the only one of the Makololo who knew this part of the country ; and this was the region which to his mind was best adapted for the residence of a tribe. The natives generally have a good idea of the nature 568 THE KATUE. Chap. XXVIH. of the soil and pasturage, and Sekwebu expatiated with great eloquence on the capabilities of this part for supphong the wants of the Makololo. There is certainly abundance of room at present in the country for thousands and thousands more of population. We passed near the Losito, a former encampment of the Matebele, with whom Sekwebu had lived. At the sight of the bones of the oxen they had devoured, and the spot where savage dances had taken place, though all deserted now, the poor fellow burst out into a wild Matebele song. He pointed out also a district about two days and a half west of Semalembue, where Sebituane had formerly dwelt. There is a hot fountain on the hills there, named " Nakalombo," which may be seen at a distance, emitting steam. There," said Sekwebu, "had your Molekane (Sebituane) been ahve, he would have brought you to live mth him. You would be on the bank of the river, and by taking canoes you would at once sail dovm to the Zambesi and visit the white people at the sea." This part is a favourite one vdth the Makololo, and probably it would be a good one in which to form a centre of civilization. There is a large flat district of countiy to the north, said to be peopled by the Bashukulompo and other tribes, who cultivate the ground to a great extent, and raise vast quantities of grain, ground-nuts, sweet potatoes, &c. They also grow sugar-cane. If they were certain of a market, I believe they would not be unwill- ing to cultivate cotton too, but they have not been accustomed to the peaceful pursuits of commerce. All are fond of trade, but they have been taught none, save that m ivory and slaves. The Kafue enters a narrow gorge close by the village of Semalembue ; as the hill on the north is caUed Bolengwe, I apply that name to the gorge (lat. 15° 48' 19" S., long. 28° 22' E.). Semalembue said, that he ought to see us over the river, so he accompanied us to a pass about a mile south of his village, and when we entered among the hills, we found the ford of the Kafue. On parting ^nth Semalembue I put on him a shirt, and he went away with it apparently much dehghted. The ford was at least 250 yards broad, but rocky and shallow. After crossing it in a canoe we went along the left bank, and were completely shut in by high hills. Every available spot between the river and the hiUs is under cultivation ; and the residence of the people here is intended to secure safety for IDEAL SECTION ACROSS SOUTH CENTRAL AFRICA, INTUNDEU TO SHUW THE ELEVATED VALL13Y FOKBI OF THAT rOKTION OF THE CONTINENT. If lii i pll Tho lioights avo given as sm i TIio section is ncccssm il 1 ^ i i i :=! itlliii 1 E 1 a S' - ' g = - ii ll E 1 1 If ji of an iiicli pc-r 1000 I'utt in n To face liaijc 500. Chap. XXVni. HILLS AND VILLAGES. 569 themselves and their gardens from their enemies; there is plenty of garden-ground outside the hills ; here they are obliged to make pitfalls, to protect the grain against the hippopotami. As these animals had not been disturbed by guns, they were remarkably tame, and took no notice of our passing. We again saw numbers of young ones, not much larger than terrier dogs, sitting on the necks of their dams, the little saucy-looldng heads cocking up between the old one's ears ; as they become a little older, they sit on the withers. Needing meat, we shot a full-grown cow, and foiind, as we had often done before, the flesh to be very much like pork. The height of this animal was 4 feet 10 inches, and from the point of the nose to the root of the tail 10 feet 6. They seem quarrelsome, for both males and females are found covered with scars, and young males are often killed by the elder ones : we met an instance of this near the falls. We came to a great many little villages among the hills, as if the inhabitants had reason to hide themselves from the observa- tion of their enemies. While detained cutting up the hippo- potamus, I ascended a hill called Mabue asula (stones smell badly), and though not the highest ia sight, it was certainly not 100 feet lower than the most elevated. The boiliag point of water showed it to be about 900 feet above the river, which was of the level of Linyanti. These lulls seemed to my men of prodigious altitude, for they had been accustomed to ant-hills only. The mention of mountains that pierced the clouds, made them draw in their breath and hold their hands to their mouths. And when I told them that their previous description of Taba cheu had led me to expect something of the sort, I found that the idea of a cloud-capped mountain had never entered into their heads. The mountains certainly look liigh, from having abruj)t sides. But I had recognised the fact by the point of ebullition of water, that they are of a considerably lower altitude than the top of the ridge we had left. They constitute in fact a sort of low fringe on the outside of the eastern ridge, exactly as the (apparently) high j» mountains of Angola (Golungo Alto) form an outer low fringe to the western ridge. I was much struck by the similarity of con- formation and nature of the rocks on both sides of the continent. But there is a difference in the structure of the subtending ridges, as may be understood by the annexed ideal geological section. 570 GEOLOGICAL FOEMATION. Chap. XXYin. We can see from tMs hill five distinct ranges, of whicli Bolengo is the most westerly, and Komanga is the most easterly. The second is named Sekonkamena, and the thu'd Funze. Very many conical hills appear among them, and they are generally covered with trees. On their tops we have beautiful white quartz rocks, and some have a cappmg of dolomite. On the west of the second range we have great masses of kyanite or disthene, and on the flanks of the third and fourth a great deal of specular iron-ore wliich is magnetic, and rounded pieces of black iron- ore, also strongly magnetic, and containing a very large per- centage of the metal. The sides of these ranges are generally very precipitous, and there are rivulets between, wliich are not perennial. Many of the hills have been raised by granite, exactly like that of the Kalomo. Dykes of this granite, may be seen thrustuig up immense masses of mica schist and quartz or sandstone schist, and making the strata fold over them on each side, as clothes hung upon a line. The uppermost stratum is always dolomite, or bright wliite quartz. Semalembue intended that we should go a Httle to the north-east, and pass through the people called Babimpe, and we saw some of that people, who invited us to come that way on account of its beiag smoother ; but feeling anxious to get back to the Zambesi again, we decided to cross the hills towards its confluence with the Kafue. The distance, which in a straight hue is but smaU, occupied three days. The precipitous natme of the sides of tliis mass of hills, knocked up the oxen and forced us to slaughter two, one of which, a very large one and ornamented with upwards of thirty pieces of its own skin detached and hanging down, Sekeletu had wished us to take to the wliite people as a specimen of his cattle. We saw many elephants among the hiUs, and my men ran off and killed three. When we came to the top of the outer range of the liiUs, we had a glorious \iew. At a short distance below us we saw the Kafue, wending away over a forest-clad plain to the confluence, and on the other side of the Zambesi beyond that, lay a long range of dark hills. A hne of fleecy clouds appeared lying along the comse of that river at their base. The plain below us, at the left of the Kafue, had more large game on it than anywhere else I had seen in Africa. Hundreds of buffaloes and zebras gTazed on the open spaces, and there stood lorcUy elephants feeding majestically, Chap. XXVIH. THE TSETSE. 571 notliing moving apparently but the proboscis. I wished that I had been able to take a photograph of a scene, so seldom beheld, and wliich is destined, as guns increase, to pass away from earth. Wlien we descended we found all the animals remarkably tame. The elephants stood beneath the trees, fanning themselves with their large ears, as if they did not see us at 200 or 300 yards distance. The nmnber of animals was quite astonishing, and made me think, that here I could realize an image of that time, when Megatheria fed undisturbed in the primeval forests. We saw great numbers of red-colom*ed pigs (Potamochoerus), standing gazing at us in wonder. The people live on the hills, and, having no guns, seldom disturb the game. They have never been visited, even by half-castes ; but Babisa traders have come occasionally. Continuous rains kept us for some time on the banks of the Chiponga, and here we were unfoiiunate enough to come among the tsetse. Mr. I. E. Gray, of the British Museum, has kindly obliged me with a drawing of the insect, with the ravages of wliich I have unfortunately been too familiar. (For description see pp. 80-83.) No. 1 is the insect somewhat smaller 1. The Tsetse.— 2. The same mj^ified.— 3. The proboscis. than life, from the specimen having contracted in drying ; they are a little larger than the common house-fly. No. 2 is the 572 IMPEOVE]) HEALTH : THE REASON. Chap. XXYHI. insect magnified ; and No. 3 shows the magnified proboscis and poison-bulb at the root. We tried to leave one morning, but the rain coming on afresh brought us to a stand, and after waiting an hour, wet to the slvin, we were fain to retrace our steps to our sheds. These rains were from the east, and the clouds might be seen on the hills, exactly as the " Table-cloth " on Table Mountain. This was the first wetting we had got since we left Sesheke, for I had gained some experience in travelling. In Londa we braved the rain, and as I despised being carried in our frequent passage tln-ough running water, I was pretty constantly drenched; but now, when we saw a storm coming, we invariably halted. The men soon pulled grass sufficient to make a little shelter for them- selves by placing it on a bush, and having got my camp-stool and umbrella, with a Httle grass under my feet, I kept myself perfectly dry. We also Hghted large fires, and the men were not chilled by streams of water running down their persons, and abstracting the heat, as they would have been had they been exposed to the rain. When it was over, they warmed themselves by the fires, and we travelled on comfortably. The effect of this care was, that we had much less sickness than with a smaller party in journeying to Loanda. Another improvement made from my experience, was avoiding an entire change of diet. In going to Loanda I took Kttle or no European food, in order not to burden my men and make them lose spmt, but trusted entirely to what might be got by the gun, and the liberahty of the Balonda ; but on this journey I took some flom- wliich had been left in the waggon, with some got on the island, and baked my own bread aU the way in an extemporaneous oven made by an inverted pot. With these precautions, aided, no doubt, by the greater healthiness of the district over wliich we passed, I enjoyed perfect health. Wlien we left the Chiponga on the 30th we passed along the range of hills on our left, which are composed of mica and clay-slate. At the bottom we found a forest of large sihcified trees, aU lying as if the elevation of the range had made them fall away from it, and towards the river. An ordinary-sized tree, standing on end, measured 22 inches in diameter: there were 12 laminae to the inch. These are easily counted, because there is usually a scale of pure siHca between each, which has not been Chap. XXVIII. CHARGE OF AN ELEPHANT. 573 so much affected by the weather as the rest of the ring itself: the edges of the rings thus stand out plainly. Mr. Quekett, hav- ing kindly examined some specimens, finds that it is " silicified coniferous wood of the Aeaucaeian type ; and the nearest allied wood that he knows of is that found, also in a fossil state, in New South Wales." The numbers of large game were quite astonishing. I never saw elephants so tame as those near the Chiponga : they stood close to our path ^dthout being the least afraid. This is different from their conduct where they have been accustomed to guns, for there they take alarm at the dis- tance of a mile, and begin to run if a shot is fired even at a longer distance. My men killed another here, and rewarded the villagers of the Chiponga for their HberaKty m meal, by loading them with flesh. We spent a night at a baobab, which was hollow and would hold twenty men inside. It had been used as a lodging- house by the Babisa. As we approached nearer the Zambesi, the country became covered with broad-leaved bushes, pretty thickly planted, and we had several times to shout to elephants to get out of our way. At an open space, a herd of buffaloes came trotting up to look at our oxen, and it was only by shooting one that I made them retreat. The meat is very much like that of an ox, and this one was very fine. The only danger we actually encountered was from a female elephant, with three young ones of different sizes. Charging through the centre of our extended line, and causing the men to throw down their burdens in a great hurr}^, she received a spear for her temerity. I never saw an elephant with more than one calf before. We knew that we were near our Zambesi again, even before the great river burst upon our sight, by the numbers of water-fowl we met. I killed four geese with two shots, and, had I followed the wishes of my men, could have secured a meal of water-fowl for the whole party. I never saw a river with so much animal life around and in it, and, as the Barotse say, " Its fish and fowl are always fat" When our eyes were gladdened by a view of its goodly broad waters, we found it very much larger than it is even above the falls. One might try to make his voice heard across it in vain. Its flow was more rapid than near Sesheke, being often four and a half miles an hour, and, what I never saw before, the water was discoloured and of a deep 574 THE ZAMBESI— ISLAND OF MENYE. Chap. XXYIII. brownish red. In the great valley, the Leeambye never becomes of this colour. The adjacent country, so far north as is known, is all level, and the soil, being generally covered with dense herbage, is not abraded ; but on the eastern ridge the case is different ; the gTass is short, and, the elevation being great, the soil is washed down by the streams, and hence the discoloration which we now view. The same thing was observed on the western ridge. We never saw discoloration till we reached the Quango; that ob- tained its matter from the western slope of the western ridge, just as this part of the Zambesi receives its soil from the eastern slope of the eastern ridge. It carried a considerable quantity of wreck of reeds, sticks, and trees. We struck upon the river about eight miles east of the confluence with the Kafae, and thereby missed a sight of that interesting point. The cloudiness of the weather was such, that but few observations could be made for determining our position, so, pursuing our course, we went doTO the left bank, and came 023posite the island of Menye mak- aba. The Zambesi contains numerous islands ; this was about a mile and a half or two miles long, and upwards of a quarter of a mile broad. Besides human population, it has a herd of buffa- loes that never leave it. In the distance they seemed to be upwards of sixty. The human and brute inliabitants understand each other ; for when the former tliink they ought to avenge the liberties committed on their gardens, the leaders of the latter come out boldly to give battle. They told us that the only time in which they can thin them, is when the river is full and part of the island flooded. They then attack them from their canoes. The comparatively small space to which they have confined themselves, shows how luxuriant the vegetation of this region is ; for were they in want of more pasture, as buffaloes can swim well and the distance from this bank to the island is not much more than 200 yards, they might easily remove hither. The opposite bank is much more distant. Kanges of hills appear now to run parallel with the Zambesi, and are about fifteen miles apart. Those on the north approach nearest to the river. The inhabitants on that side are the Batonga, those on the south bank are the Banyai. The hills abound in buffaloes, and elephants are numerous, and many are lulled by the people on both banks. They erect stages on Chap. XXYIII. DEVICES FOE KILLING GAME. 575 high trees overhanging the paths by which the elephants come, and then use a large spear with a handle nearly as thick as a man's wrist, and four or five feet long. When the animal comes beneath they throw the spear, and if it enters between the ribs above, as the blade is at least twenty inches long by two broad, the motion of the handle, as it is aided by knocking against tlie trees, makes frightful gashes ^dthin, and soon causes death. They kill them also by means of a spear, inserted in a beam of wood, which, being suspended on the branch of a tree by a cord attached to a latch fastened in the path, and intended to be struck by the animal's foot, leads to the fall of the beam, and, the spear being poisoned, causes death in a few hours. We were detained by continuous rains several days at this island. The clouds rested upon the tops of the liills as they came from the eastwai'd, and then poured down plenteous showers on the valleys below. As soon as we could move, Tomba Nyama, the head-man of the island, volunteered the loan of a canoe to cross a small river, called the Chong-we, which we found to be about fifty or sixty yards broad and flooded. AH this part of the country was well kno^vn to Sekwebu, and he informed us that, when he passed tlu:ough it as a boy, the inliabitants possessed abundance of cattle, and there were no tsetse. The existence of the insect now, shows that it may return in company with the larger game. The vegetation along the bank was exceedingly rank, and the bushes so tangled that it was difficult to get on. The paths had been made by the wild animals alone, for the general pathway of the people is the river, in then- canoes. We usually followed the footpatlis of the game, and of these there was no lack. Buffaloes, zebras, pallahs, and waterbuclvs abound, and there is also a gTcat abundance of wild pigs, koodoos, and the black antelope. We got one buffalo, as he was rolling him- - self in a pool of mud. He had a large piece of skin torn off his flank, it was believed by an alligator. We were struck by the fact that, as soon as we came between the ranges of hills which flank the Zambesi, the rains felt warm. At sunrise the thermometer stood at from 82° to 86° ; at midday, in the coolest shade, namely, in my little tent, under a shady tree, at 96° to 98° ; and at sunset it was 86°. Tliis is different from any- thing we experienced in the interior, for these rains always bring 576 AN ALBIXO MURDEEED BY HIS MOTHEE. Chap. XXVIU. down the mercury to 72° or even 68°. There, too, we found a small black coleopterous insect, which stung like the mosquito, but injected less poison ; it put us in mind of that insect, which does not exist in the liigh lands we had left. January/ 6tk, 1856. — Each collage we passed, furnished us with a couple of men to take us to the next. They were useful in showing us the parts least covered with jungle. AVhen we came near a village, we saw men, women, and children employed in weeding their gardens, they being great agriculturists. Most of the men are muscular, and have large ploughman hands. Then colour is the same admixture, from very dark, to hght oHve, that we saw in Londa. Though all have thick lips and flat noses, only the more degraded of the population possess the ugly negro physiognomy. They mark themselves by a line of Kttle raised cicatrices, each of wliich is a quarter of an inch long; they extend from the tip of the nose to the root of the hair on the forehead. It is remarkable that I never met with an Albino in crossuig Africa, though, fr-om accounts published by the Por- tuguese, I was led to expect that they were held in favour as doctors by certain chiefs. I saw several in the south : one at Kuru- man is a full-grown woman, and a man having this peculiarity of sldn, was met with in the colony. Their bodies are always blistered on exposm^e to the sun, as the skin is more tender than that of the blacks. The Km'uman woman Hved some time at Kolobeng, and generally had on her bosom and shoulders the remains of large bhsters. She was most anxious to be made black, but nitrate of silver, taken internally, did not produce its usual effect. During the time I resided at Mabotsa, a woman came to the station with a fine boy, an Albino. The father had ordered her to tln-ow liim away, but she clung to her offspring for many years. He was remarkably intelligent for his age. The pupil of the eye was of a pink colour, and the eye itself was unsteady in vision. The hair, or rather wool, was yellow, and the features were those common among the Bechuanas. After I left the place, the mother is said to have become tired of Hving apart from the father, who refused to have her while she retained the son. She took him out one day, and killed him close to the village of Mabotsa, and nothing was done to her by the authorities. From having met with, no Albinos in Londa, I suspect they are Chap. XXVIII. "TLOLO"— IDEA OF FEMALE BEAUTY. 577 there also put to death. We saw one dwarf only in Londa, and brands on liim showed he had once been a slave ; and there is one dwarf woman at Linyanti. The general absence of deformed persons, is partly owing to their destruction in infancy, and partly to the mode of life being a natural one, so far as ventilation and food are concerned. They use but few unwholesome mix- tures as condiments, and, though their undress exposes them to the vicissitudes of the temperature, it does not harbour vomites. It was observed, that^ when smallpox and measles visited the country, they were most severe on the half-castes who were clothed. In several tribes a cliild wliich is said to "tlola," transgress, is put to death. " Tlolo," or transgi-ession, is ascribed to several curious cases. A cliild who cut the upper front teeth before the under, was always put to death among the Bakaa, and, I believe, also among the Bakwains. In some tribes, a case of twins renders one of them liable to death ; and an ox, which, while lying in the pen, beats the gTound vdih its tail, is treated in the same way. It is thought to be calling death to visit the tribe. When I was coming through Londa, my men canied a great number of fowls, of a larger breed than any they had at home. If one crowed before midnight, it had been guilty of " tlolo," and was Idlled. The men often carried them sitting on ^ their guns, and, if one began to crow in a forest, the owner would give it a beating, by way of teaching it not to be guilty of cro™ig at unseasonable hours. The women here are in the habit of piercing the upper Hp, and gradually enlarging the orifice until they can insert a sheU. The lip then appears drawn out beyond the perpendicular of the nose, and gives them a most ungainly aspect. Sekwebu remarked, " These women want to make their mouths like those of ducks ;" and indeed it does appear as if they had the idea that female beauty of Hp had been attained by the Oniithorhi/jiehus paradoxus alone. This custom prevails tlu'oughout the country of the Maravi, and no one could see it without confessing, that fasliion had never led women to a freak more mad. We had rains now every day, and considerable cloudiness, but the sun often burst thi'ough with scorcliuig intensity. All caU out against it then, saying, " 0 the sun ! that is rain again." It was worth noticing that my companions never complained 'of the heat while on the 2 p 578. SELOLE'S HOSTILITY. C^HAP. XXYITT. liighlands, but when we descended into the lowlands of Angola, and here also, they began to fret on account of it. I myself felt an oppressive steaminess in the atmosphere, which I had not experienced on the higher lands. As the game was abundant and my party very large, I had still to supply then- wants with the gun. We slaughtered the oxen only when unsuccessful in hunting. We always entered into friendly relations vdth. the head-men of the different villages, and they presented gTain and other food freely. One man gave a basinful of rice, the first we met with in the country. It is never seen in the interior. He said he knew it was "white man's com," and when I wished to buy some more, he asked me to give hun a slave. This was the first symptom of the slave-trade on this side of the country. The last of these friendly head-men was named Mobala ; and havmg passed him in peace, we had no anticipation of an}i:lnng else ; but after a few hours we reached Selole or Cliilole, and found that he not only considered us enemies, but had actually sent an express to raise the tribe of Mburdma against us. All the women of Selole had fled, and the few people we met, exhibited sjTuptoms of teiTor. An armed party had come fr'om Mbm-uma m obedience to the call, but the head-man of the company, being Mburuma's brother, suspecting that it was a hoax, came to our encampment and told us the whole. When we explained our objects, he told us that Mbm-uma, he had no doubt, would receive us well. The reason why Selole acted m tliis foolish manner, we afterwards found to be this : an Italian named Simoens, and nicknamed Shiatomba (don't eat tobacco), had married the daughter of a cliief called Sekokole, hving north of Tete. He armed a party of fifty slaves with guns, and, ascending the river in canoes some distance beyond the island Meya makaba, attacked several inhabited islands beyond, securing a large number of prisoners, and much ivory. On his return, the different chiefs, at the instigation of liis father-in-law, who also did not wish liim to set up as a cliief, united, attacked and dispersed the party of Simoens, and killed him while trying to escape on foot. Selole imagined that I was another Itahan, or, as he expressed it, " Siriatomba risen fr'om the dead." In his message to Mburuma he even said that Mobala, and all the villages beyond, were utterly destroyed by our' fire-arms, but the sight of Mobala him- Chap. XXYIII. ELEPHANTS' TENACITY OF LIFE. 579 self, who had come to the village of Selole, led the brother of Mbuiaima to see at once that it was all a hoax. But for tliis, the foolish fellow Selole might have given us trouble. We saw many of the Hberated captives of tliis Italian among the villages here, and Sekwebu found them to be Matebele. The brother of Mburuma had a gun, which was the first we bad seen in coming eastward. Before we reached Mbm-uma, my men went to attack a troop of elephants, as they were much in need of meat. When the troop began to run, one of them fell into a hole, and before he could extricate liimself, an opportunity was afforded for all the men to tlu'ow their speai-s. Wien he rose he was Hke a huge porcupine, for each of the seventy or eighty men had discharged more than one spear at lum. As they had no more, they sent for me to finish liim. In order to put liini at once out of pain^ I went to witliin twenty yards, there being a bank between us wliich he could not readily climb. I rested the gun upon an antliill, so as to take a steady aim ; but though I fii-ed twelve 2-ounce bullets, all I had, mto different parts, I could not kill liim. As it was becoming dark, I advised my men to let him stand, being sure of finding him dead in the momhig; but though we searched aU the next day, and went more than ten miles, we never saw him again. I mention this to young men who may think that they wiU be able to hunt elephants on foot, by adopting the Ceylon practice of killing them by one baU in the brain. I beHeve that in Africa the practice of standing before an elephant, expecting to kill liim with one shot, would be certain death to the hunter ; and I would add, for the information of those who may think that, because I met with a gTeat abimdance of game here, they also might find rare sport, that the tsetse exists aU along both banks of the Zambesi, and there can be no hunting by means of hoi-ses. Hunting on foot m this cHmate is such excessively hard work, that I feel certain the keenest sportsman would very soon tm-n away from it in disgust. I myself was rather glad, when fuiTiished with the excuse that I had no longer any balls, to hand over all the hunting to my men, who had no more love for the sport than myself, as they never engaged in it, except when forced by hunger. Some of them gave me a liint to melt down my plate, by asking if it were not lead. I liad two pewter plates and a piece of zinc, 2 p 2 580 MR. OSWELL'S NARROW ESCAPE. Chap. XXVIII. which I now melted into bullets. I also spent the remainder of my handkerchiefs in buying spears for' them. My men frequently surrounded herds of buffaloes and killed numbers of the calves. I, too, exerted myself greatly ; but as I am now obliged to shoot with the left arm I am a bad shot, and this, with the Kghtness of the bullets, made me very unsuccessful. The more the hunger, the less my success, hivariably. I may here add an adventure with an elephant of one who has had more narrow escapes than any man living, but whose modesty has always prevented him from pubhshing anything about himself. AVlien Ave were on the banks of the Zouga in 1850, Mr. Osweli pursued one of these animals into the dense, tliick, thorny bushes met with on the margin of that river, and to which the elephant usually flees for safety. He followed through a narrow pathway, by lifting up some of the branches and forcing his way through the rest ; but when he had just got over this difficulty, he saw the elephant, whose tail he had but got ghmpses of before, now rush- ing towards liim. There was then no time to lift up branches, so he tried to force the horse tln-ough them. He could not effect a passage ; and, as there was but an instant between the attempt and failure, the hunter tried to dismount, but in doing tliis one foot was caught by a branch, and the spm- di-awn along the ani- mal's flank ; tliis made him spring away and tlu^ow the rider on the gTOund with liis face to the elephant, wliich, being in full chase, still went on. Mr. OsweU saw the huge fore foot about to descend on his legs, parted them, and drew in liis breath as if to resist the pressure of the other foot, which he expected would next descend on liis body. He saw the whole length of the under part of the enormous brute pass over him ; the horse got away safely. I have heard of but one other authentic instance in which an elephant went over a man without injury, and, for any one who knows the natm-e of the bush in which this occurred, the very thought of an encounter in it with such a foe is appalling. As the thorns are placed in pairs on opposite sides of the branches, and these turn round on being pressed against, one pair brings the other exactly into the position in which it must pierce the intruder. They cut like knives. Horses dread tliis bush extremely : indeed, most of them refuse to face its thorns. On reaching Mburuma's Aillage, liis brother came to meet us. Chap. XXVIII. MBURUMA'S VILLAGE AND PEOPLE. 581 We explained the reason of our delay, and he told us that we were looked upon with alarm. He said that Siriatomba had been killed near the village of Selole, and hence that man's fears. He added that the Itahan had come talking of peace, as we did, but had kidnapped cliildren and bought ivory with them, and that we were supposed to be following the same calling. I pointed to my men, and asked if any of these were slaves, and if Ave had any children among them, and I tliink we satisfied him that we were true men. Eeferring to our ill success in hunting the day before, he said, " The man at whose village you remained was in fault in allowing you to want meat, for had he only run across to ]Mburuma he would have given liim a httle meal, and, having sprinkled that on the ground as an offering to the gods, you would have found your elephant." The chiefs in these parts take upon themselves an office somewhat like the priesthood, and the people imagiae that they can propitiate the Deity tln-ough them. In illustration of their ideas, it may be mentioned that, when we were among the tribes west of Semalembue, several of the people came forward and introduced themselves — one as a hunter of elephants, another as a hunter of hippopotami, a third as a digger of pitfalls — appa- rently wishing me to give them medicine for success in theii' avo- cations, as well as to cure the diseases of those to whom I was administering the drugs. I thought they attributed supernatiu'al power to them, for, like all Africans, they have unbounded faith in the efficacy of charms ; but I took pains to let them know that they must pray and trust to another power than mine for aid. AVe never saw Mburuma himself, and the conduct of his people indicated very strong suspicions, though he gave us presents of meal, maize, and native corn. His people never came near us, except ia large bodies and fully armed. AVe had to order them to place their bows, arrows, and spears at a distance before entering our encampment. We did not, however, care much for a httle trouble now, as we hoped that, if we could pass this time without much molestation, we might yet be able to return with ease, and without meeting sour, suspicious looks. The soil, glanciug everywhere with mica, is very fertile, and aU the v alleys are cultivated, the maize being now iu ear and eatable. Ranges of lulls, wliich line both banks of the river above this, now come close up to each bank, and form a narrow 582 MA MBURUMA'S VILLAGE AND PEOPLE. Chap. XXVIII. gorge, which, hke all others of the same nature, is called Mpata. There is a narrow pathway by the side of the river, but we pre- ferred a more open one in a pass among the hills to the east, which is called Mohango. The hills rise to a height of 800 or 1000 feet, and are all covered with trees. The rocks were of various coloured mica schist ; and parallel with the Zambesi lay a broad band of gneiss with garnets in it. It stood on edge, and several dykes of basalt, with dolerite, had cut tlu'ough it. Mbm-uma sent two men as guides to the Loangwa. These men tried to bring us to a stand, at a distance of about six miles from the village, by the notice, " Mburuma says you are to sleep under that tree." On declining to do tliis, we were told that we must wait at a certain village for a supply of corn. As none appeared in an hour, I proceeded on the march. It is not quite certain that then- intentions were hostile, but this seemed to disarrange their plans, and one of them was soon observed miming back to Mburuma. They had first of all tried to separate our party, by volunteering the loan of a canoe to convey Sekwebu and me, together with om^ luggage, by way of the river, and, as it was pressed upon us, I thought that tliis was their design. The next attempt was to detain us in the pass, but, betraying no suspicion, we civilly declined to place ourselves in their power in an unfa- vourable position. AVe afterwards heard that a party of Babisa traders, who came from the north-east, bringing English goods from Mozambique, had been plundered by this same people. Elephants were still abundant, but more wild, as they fled with great speed as soon as we made our appearance. The country between Mburuma's and his mother's viUage was all liilly and very difficult, and prevented us from travelling more than ten mUes a day. At the village of Ma Mburuma (mother of Mbu- ruma), the guides, who had again joined us, gave a favourable report, and the women and children did not flee. Here we found that traders, called Bazunga, have been in the habit of coming in canoes, and that I was named as one of them. These I supposed to be half-caste Portuguese, for they said that the hair of their heads and the skin beneath their clothing were different from mine. Ma Mburuma promised us canoes to cross the Loangwa in our front. It was pleasant to see great numbers of men, women, and boys come, without suspicion, to look at the books. ( 'iiAP. XXVIII. OPINIONS OF THE GUIDES. 583 watch, looldng-glass, revolver, &c. They are a strong, muscular race, and both men and women are seen cultivating the gxoimd. The soil contains so much comminuted talc and mica from the adjacent hills, that it seems as if mixed with spermaceti. They generally eat their com only after it has begun to sprout fi'om steeping it in water. The defonned Hps of the women make them look very ugly; I never saw one smile. The people in tliis part seem to understand readily what is spoken about God, for they listen with great attention, and tell in return their own ideas of departed sphits. The position of the village of Mburuma's mother was one of great beauty, quite enclosed by liigh, steep liills ; and the valleys are all occupied by gardens of native corn and maize, which gxow^ luxuriantly. We were obhged to hurry along, for the oxen were bitten daily by the tsetse, which, as I have before remarked, now inliabits extensive tracts which once supported herds of cattle that were swept off by 3Ipakane and other marauders, whose devastations were well Imo™ to Sekwebu, for he himself had been an actor m the scenes. When he told me of them he always lowered liis voice, in order that the guides might not hear that he had been one of their enemies. But that we were looked upon with suspicion, on account of having come in the footsteps of invaders, was evident from our guides remarking to men m the gardens through which we passed, " They have words of peace — all \ery fine ; but Hes only, as the Bazimga are great hars." They thought we did not understand them, but Seksvebu knew every word perfectly, and, without paying any ostensible attention to these complimentary remarks, we always took care to explain ever afterwards that we w^ere not Bazunga, but Makoa (English). 584 HOSTILE APPEARANCES. Chap. XXIX. CHAPTEK XXIX. Confluence of Loangwa and Zambesi — Hostile appearances — Ruins of a church — Turmoil of spirit — Cross the river — Friendly parting — Ruins of stone houses — The situation of Zumbo for commerce — Pleasant gardens — Dr. Lacerda's visit to Cazembe — Peirara's statement — Unsuccessful attempt to establish trade with the people of Cazembe — One of my men tossed by a buffalo — Meet a man with jacket and hat on — Hear of the Portuguese and native war — Holms and terraces on the banks of river — Dancing for corn — Beautiful country — Mpende's hostility — Incantations — A fight anti- cipated — Courage and remarks of my men — Visit from two old councillors of Mpende — Their opinion of the English — Mpende concludes not to fight us — His subsequent friendship — Aids us to cross the river — The country — Sweet potatoes — Bakwain theory of rain confirmed — Thunder without clouds — Desertion of one of my men — Other natives' ideas of the Eng- lish — Dalama (gold) — Inhabitants dislike slave-buyers — Meet native traders with American calico — Game-laws — Elephant medicine — Salt from the sand — Fertility of soil — Spotted hyaena — Liberality and polite- ness of the people — Presents — A stingy white trader — Natives' remarks about him — Effect on their minds — Rain and wind now from an opposite direction — Scarcity of fuel — Trees for boat-building — Boroma — Freshets — Leave the river — Cliicova, its geological features — Small rai:»id near Tete — Loquacious guide — Nyampungo, the rain-charmer — An old man — No silver — Gold- washing — No cattle. 14:th. — We reached the confluence of the Loangwa and the Zambesi, most thanlvful to God for liis great mercies in helping us thus far. Mburuma's people had behaved so suspiciously, that, though we had guides from him, we were by no means sure that we should not be attacked in crossing the Loangwa. AVe saw them here collecting in large numbers, and, though professing friendship, they kept at a distance from our camp. They refused to lend us more canoes than two, though they have many. They have no intercourse with Em'opeans, except tln'ough the Babisa. They tell us that this was formerly the residence of the Bazunga, and mamtain silence as to the cause of then- leaving it. I w^alked about some ruins I discovered, built of stone, and found the remains of a church, and on one side lay a broken bell, with the letters 1. H. S. and a cross, but no date. There were no Chap. XXIX. CROSSING THE LOANGWA. 585 inscriptions on stone, and the people could not tell what the Bazunga called their place. We found afterwards it was Zumbo. I felt some turmoil of spirit in the evening, at the prospect of having all my efforts for the w^elfare of tliis great region and its teeming population, knocked on the head by savages to-morrow, who might be said to " know not what they do." It seemed such a pity that the important fact of the existence of the two healthy ridges which I had discovered, should not become known in Christendom, for a confirmation would thereby have been given to the idea that Africa is not open to the Gospel. But I read that Jesus said, " All power is given unto me in heaven and on earth : go ye, therefore, and teach all nations and lo, I am with you alway, even unto the end of the worlds I took tliis as His word of honom-, and then went out to take observations for lati- tude and longitude, wliich, I tliink, were very successful. (The church : lat. 15° 37' 22" S., long. 30° 32' E.) loth. The natives of the surrounding country collected around us this morning, all armed. The Avomen and children Avere sent away, and one of Mburuma's wives, who lives in the vicinity, was not allowed to approach, though she had come from her village to pay me a visit. Only one canoe was lent to us, though we saw two others tied to the bank. The part we crossed w^as about a mile from the confluence, and, as it was now flooded, it seemed upwards of half a mile in breadth. We passed all om- goods first on to an island in the middle, then the remaining cattle and men ; occupying the post of honour, 1, as usual, was the last to enter the canoe. A number of the inhabitants stood armed all the time we were embarldng. I showed them my watch, lens, and other tlihigs to keep them amused, until there only remained those w^ho were to enter the canoe with me. I thanked them for their kindness, and wished them peace. After all, they may have been influenced only by the intention to be ready, in case I should play them some false trick, for they have reason to be distrustful of the whites. The guides came over to bid us adieu, and we sat under a mango-tree, fifteen feet in circumference. We found them more communicative now. They said that the land on both sides belonged to the Bazunga, and that they had left of old, on the approach of Changamera, Ngaba, and Mpakane. Sekwebu was with the last named, but he maintained that they never 586 RUINS OF STONE HOUSES. Chap. XXIX. came to the confluence, though they carried off all the cattle of Mbiu'uma. The guides confirmed tliis by saying that the Bazunga were not attacked, but fled in alarm on the approach of the enemy. This mango-tree he knew by its proper name, and we found seven others and several tamarinds, and were informed that the chief Mburuma sends men annually to gather the fruit, but, Kke many Africans whom I have known, has not had patience to propagate more trees. I gave them some Kttle presents for themselves, a handkerchief and a few beads, and 'they were liighly pleased with a cloth of red baize for JMburuma, wliich Sekeletu had given me to purchase a canoe. AVe were thankful to part good friends. Next morning we passed along the bottom of the range, called Mazanzwe, and found the ruins of eight or ten stone houses. They all faced the river, and were high enough up the flanks of the hill Mazanzwe to command a pleasant view of the broad Zambesi. These estabhshments had all been built on one plan — a house on one side of a large court, surrounded by a wall ; both houses and walls had been built of soft gray sandstone cemented together with mud. The work had been performed by slaves ignorant of building, for the stones were not often placed so as to cover the seams below. Hence you frequently find the joinings forming one seam from the top to the bottom. Much mortar or clay had been used to cover defects, and now trees of the fig family grow upon the walls, and clasp them with their roots. AAHien the clay is moistened, masses of the walls come down by wholesale. Some of the rafters and beams had fallen in, but were entfre, and there were some trees in the middle of the houses as large as a man's body. On the opposite or south bank of the Zambesi, we saw the remains of a waU on a height which was probably a fort, and the church stood at a central point, formed by the right bank of the Loangwa and the left of the Zambesi. The situation of Zumbo was admirably well chosen as a site for commerce. Looldng backwards we see a mass of high, dark mountains, covered with trees ; beliind us rises the fine high hill Mazanzwe, which stretches away northwards along the left bank of the Loangwa; to the S.E. lies an open country with a small round hill in the distance called Toftdo. The mer- chants, as they sat beneath the verandahs in front of theu- Chap. XXIX. LACERDA'S VISIT TO CAZEMBE. 587 houses, had a magnificent view of the two rivers at then- conflu- ence ; of their chiu-ch at the angle ; and of all the gardens which they had on both sides of the rivers. In these they cultivated wheat without uTigation, and, as the Portuguese assert, of a gTam twice the size of that at Tcto. From the guides we learnt that the inliabitants had not imlibed much idea of Christianity, for they used the same term for the church bell which they did for a diviner's drum. From this point the merchants had water communication in three directions beyond — namely, from the Loangwa to the N.N.W., by theKafue to theW., and by the Zam- besi to the S.W. Their attention, however, was chiefly attracted to the N. or Londa ; and the principal articles of trade were ivory and slaves. Private enterprise was always restrained, for the colonies of the Portuguese being strictly military, and the pay of the commandants being very small, the officers have always been obliged to engage in trade ; and had they not employed their power to draw the trade to themselves, by preventing private traders from making bargains beyond the villages, and only at regulated prices, they would have had no trade, as they themselves were obliged to remain always at their posts. Several expeditions went to the north as far as to Cazembe, and Dr. Lacerda, himself Commandant of Tete, went to that chiefs residence. Unfortunately he was cut off while there, and his papers, taken possession of by a Jesuit who accompanied him, were lost to the world. Tliis Jesuit probably intended to act faMy and have them published ; but soon after his return he was called away by death himself, and the papers were lost sight of. Dr. Lacerda had a strong desire to open up communication with Angola, wliich would have been of importance then, as affording a speedier mode of commimication mth Portugal than by the way of the Cape ; but smce the opening of the overland passage to India, a quicker transit is effected from Eastern Africa to Lisbon by way of the Ked Sea. Besides Lacerda, Cazembe was visited by PeKara, who gave a glowing account of that chiefs power, which none of my inquii'ies have confirmed. The people of Matiamvo stated to me that Cazembe was a vassal of their chief ; and, fi-om aU the native visitors whom I have seen, he appears to be exactly lilve Shinte and Katema, only a little more powerful. The term " Emperor," which has been appHed to him, seems totally 588 A MAN TOSSED BY A BUFFALO. Chap. XXIX. inappropriate. The statement of Peirara tliat twenty negroes were slaughtered in a day, was not confirmed by any one else, though numbers may have been Idlled on some particular occasion during the time of liis visit, for we find tlnoughout all the country north of 20°, which I consider to be real negro, the custom of slaugh- tering victims to accompany the departed soul of a chief, and human sacrifices are occasionally offered, and certain parts of the bodies are used as charms. It is on account of the exist- ence of such rites, with the similarity of the language, and the fact that the names of rivers are repeated again and again from north to south through all that region, that I consider them to have been originally one family. The last expedition to Cazembe was somewhat of the same nature as the others, and failed in esta- blishing a commerce, because the people of Cazembe, who had come to Tete to invite the Portuguese to \isit them, had not been allowed to trade with whom they might. As it had not been free- trade there, Cazembe did not see why it should be free-trade at his town ; he accordingly would not allow liis people to furnish the party with food except at liis price ; and the expedition, being half-starved in consequence, came away voting unanimously that Cazembe was a great bore. AVhen we left tlie Loang-\\'a we thought we had got rid of the hills; but there are some beliind Mazanzwe, though five or six miles off firom the river. Tsetse and the hills had destroyed two riding oxen, and when the httle one that I now rode knocked up, I was forced to march on foot. The bush being very dense and liigh, we w^ere going along among the trees, when tliree buf- faloes, wliich we had unconsciously passed above the wind, thought that they w^ere surrounded by men, and dashed through om- hne. My ox set off at a gallop, and when I could manage to glance back, I saw one of the men up in the air about five feet above a buffalo, which was tearing along with a stream of blood running down liis flank. When I got back to the poor fellow, I found that he had Hglited on liis face, and, though he had been carried on the horns of the buffalo about twenty yards before getting the final toss, the skin was not pierced nor was a bone broken. AVlien the beasts appeared, he had thrown down liis load and stabbed one in the side. It turned suddenly upon him, and, before he could use a tree for defence, carried him off. We shampooed him w^ell, CuAP. XXIX. CAFFRE WAE. 589 and then went on, and in about a week he was able to engage in the hunt again. At Zumbo we had entered upon old grey sandstone, with sliuigle in it, dipping generally towards the south, and forming the bed of the river. The Zambesi is very broad here, but contains many inhabited islands. We slept opposite one on the 16th, called Slii- banga. The nights are warm, the temperature never falling below 80° ; it was 91° even at sunset. One cannot cool the water by a wet towel round the yessel, and we feel no pleasm-e in drinking w^arm water, though the heat makes us imbibe large quantities. We often noticed lumps of a froth-like substance on the bushes as large as cricket-balls, which we could not explain. On the morning of the 17th, we were pleased to see a person coming from the island of Shibanga, with jacket and hat on. He was quite black, but had come from the Portuguese settlement at Tete or Nyungwe ; and now for the first time we understood that the Portuguese settlement was on the other banlv of the river, and that they had been fighting with the natives for the last two years. We had thus got into the midst of a Caffi-e war, without any particular wish to be on either side. He advised us to cross the river at once, as Mpende lived on tliis side. We had been warned by the guides of Mburuma against him, for they said that if we could get past Mpende we might reach the wliite men, but that he was determined that no wliite man should pass liiin. Wisliing to follow tliis man's ad^dce, we pro- posed to borrow liis canoes ; but being afraid to offend the lords of the river, he declined. The consequence was, we were obliged to remain on the enemy's side. The next island belonged to a man named Zungo, a fine frank fellow, who brought us at once a present of corn, bound in a pecuhar way ia grass. He freely accepted our apology for having no present to give ui return, as he knew that there were no goods in the interior, and besides sent forward a recommendation to liis brother-in-law Pangola. The country adjacent to the river is covered with dense bush, thorny and tangled, making one stoop or wait till the men broke or held the branches on one side. There is much rank gTass, but it is not so high or rank as that of Angola. The maize, however, wliich is grown here is equal in size to that wliich the Americans sell for seed at the Cape. There is usually a holm adjacent to 590 DANCING FOR CORN. 1 Chap. XXIX. the river, studded with villages and gardens. The holms are but partially cultivated, and on the other parts grows rank and reedy grass. There is then a second terrace, on wliich trees and bushes abound ; and I thought I could detect a tldrd and higher steppe. But I never could discover terraces on the adjacent country, such as in other countries show ancient sea-beaches. The path runs sometimes on the one and sometimes on the other of these river terraces. Canoes are essentially necessary ; but I fmd that they here cost too much for my means, and higher up, where my hoes might have secured one, I was un^^dUing to enter into a canoe and part with my men, while there was danger of their bemg attacked. 18th. — Yesterday we rested under a broad-spreading fig-tree. Large numbers of buffaloes and water-antelopes were feeding quietly in the meadows ; the people have either no guns or no ammunition, or they would not be so tame. Pangola visited us, and presented us with food. In few other countries would 114 sturdy vagabonds be supported by the generosity of the head- men and \Tllagers, and whatever they gave be presented with pohteness. My men got pretty well suppKed individually, for they went into the villages and commenced dancing. The young women were especially pleased with the new steps they had to show, though I suspect many of them were invented for the occasion, and would say, " Dance for me, and I will grind corn for you." At every i&'esh instance of hberaHty, Sekwebu said, " Did not I tell you that these people had hearts, while we were still at Linyanti ? " AU agreed that the character he had given was true, and some remarked, " Look ! although we have been so long away from home, not one of us has become lean." It was a fact that we had been all well supplied either with meat by my g-un or their own spears, or food from the great generosity of the inhabitants. Pangola promised to ferry us across the Zambesi, but failed to fulfil liis promise. He seemed to wish to avoid offending his neighbour Mpende by aiding us to escape from his hands, so we proceeded along the banlv. Although we were in doubt as to our reception by Mpende, I could not help admiring the beautiful country as we passed along. There is, indeed, only a small part under cultivation m this fertile valley, but my mind natm-aUy turned to the comparison of it with Kolobeng, where we waited anxiously during months for rain, and only a mere Chap. XXIX. BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY. 591 thunder-sliower followed. I shall never forget the dry, hot east winds of that region ; the yellowish, sultry, cloudless sky ; the grass and all the plants di'ooping from drought, the cattle lean, the people dispirited, and our own hearts sick from hope deferred. There we often heard in the dead of the night the shrill whistle of the rain-doctor calling for rain that would not come, while hero we Hstened to the roUing thunder by night and beheld the swelling vaUeys adorned mth plenty by day. We have rain almost daily, and everything is beautifully fr-esh and green. I felt somewhat as people do on coming ashore after a long voyage — inclined to look upon the landscape in the most favourable light. The hills are covered with forests, and there is often a long luie of fleecy cloud lying on them about midway up; they are very beautiful. Finding no one wiUmg to aid us in crossing the river, we proceeded to the viUage of the cliief Mpende. A fine, large, conical hiU now appeared to the N.N.E. ; it is the highest I have seen in these parts, and at some points it appears to be two cones joined together, the northern one being a little lower than the southern. Another high hill stands on the same side to the N.E., and, from its similarity in shape to an axe on the top, is called Motemwa. Beyond it, eastward, lies the country of Kaimbwa, a cliief who has been engaged in actual conflict with the Bazunga, and beat them too, according to the version of things here. The hills on the south bank are named Kamoenja. When we came to Mpende's village, he immediately sent to inquire who we were, and then ordered the guides who had come with us from the last village to go back and call then masters. He sent no message to us whatever. We had travelled very slowly up to tliis point, the tsetse-stricken oxen being now unable to go two nules an hour. We were also delayed by being obhged to stop at every village, and send notice of our approach to the head-man, who came and received a little information, and gave some food. If we had passed on without taldng any notice of them, they would have considered it impoHte, and we should have appeared more as enemies than friends. I consoled myself for the loss of tune by the thought that these conversations tended to the opening of our future path. 2Srd. — This mornuig, at sunrise, a party of Mpende's people came close to our encampment, uttering strange cries and waving 592 A FIGHT ANTICIPATED. Chap. XXIX. some bright red substance towards us. They then lighted a fire with charms in it, and departed, uttering the same hideous screams as before. Tliis was intended to render us powerless, and probably also to frighten us. Ever since dawn, parties of armed men have been seen collecting from all quarters, and numbers passed us while it was yet dark. Had we moved down the river at once, it would have been considered an indication of fear or defiance, and so would a retreat. I therefore resolved to wait, trusting in Him who has the hearts of all men in His hands. They evidently intended to attack us, for no friendly message was sent ; and when tlu-ee of the Batoka the night before entered the village to beg food, a man went round about each of them, making a noise like a lion. The villagers then called upon them to do homage, and, when they complied, the chief ordered some chaff to be given them, as if it had been food. Other things also showed unmistakeable hostihty. As we were now pretty certain of a skirmish, I ordered an ox to be slaugh- tered, as this is a means wliich Sebituane emj^loyed for inspiring courage. I have no doubt that we should have been victorious ; indeed, my men, who were far better acquainted with fighting than any of the people on the Zambesi, were rejoicing in the prospect of securing captives to carry the tusks for them. " We shall now," said they, "get both com and clothes in plenty." They were m a sad state, poor fellows ! for the rains we had encountered had made their skin-clothing drop off piecemeal, and they were looked upon with disgust by the well-fed and well- clothed Zambesians. They were, however, veterans in maraud- ing, and the head-men, instead of being depressed by fear, as the people of Mpende intended should be the case in using their charms, hinted broadly to me that I ought to allow them to keep Mpende's wives. The roasting of meat went on fast and furious, and some of the young men said to me, " You have seen us mth elephants, but you don't know yet what we can do with men." I beUeve that, had Mpende struck the first blow, he would soon have found out that he never made a gi-eater mistake in his life. His whole tribe was assembled at about the distance of half a mile. As the country is covered with trees, we did not see them ; but every noAV and tlien a few came about us as spies, C HAP. XXIX. MPENDE'S FRIENDSHIP. 593 aud would answer no questions. I handed a leg of the ox to two of these, and desired them to take it to Mpende. After waiting a considerable time in suspense, two old men made their appear- ance, and said they had come to inquhe who I was. I replied, " I am a I^ekoa " (an EngKshman). They said, " We don't know that tribe. We suppose you are a Mozunga, the tribe with which we have been fighting." As I was not yet aware that the term Mozunga was apphed to a Portuguese, and thought they meant half-castes, I showed them my hair and the skin of my bosom, and asked if the Bazunga had hau' and skin like mine. As the Portuguese have the custom of cutting the hau' close, and are also somewhat darker than we are, they answered, "No; we never saw skin so wliite as that ;" and added, " Ah ! you must be one of that tribe that loves (Kterally, lias heart to) the black men." I, of course, gladly responded m the affirmative. They returned to the village, and we afterwards heard that there had been a long discussion between Mpende and liis councillors, and that one of the men Avith whom we had remained to talk the day before had been oiu' advocate. He was named Sindese Oal^a. When we were passing liis village, after some conversation, he said to liis people, " Is that the man whom they wish to stop after he has passed so many tribes ? What can Mpende say to refusing lum a passage?" It was owing to this man, and the fact that I belonged to the " friendly white tribe," that Mpende was per- suaded to allow us to pass. When we knew the favourable decision of the council, I sent Sekwebu to speak about the pur- chase of a canoe, as one of my men had become very ill, and I wished to reheve liis companions by taking him in a canoe. Before Sekwebu could finish liis story, Mpende remarked, " That white man is truly one of our friends. See, how he lets me know his afflictions ! " Sekwebu adroitly took advantage of this turn in the conversation, and said, "Ah! if you only Imew liim as weU as we do who have lived with him, you would understand that he highly values yom' fiiendship and that of Mburuma, and, as he is a stranger, he trusts in you to du-ect him." He replied, " Well, he ought to cross to the other side of the river, for tliis bank is hilly and rough, and the way to Tete is longer on tliis, than on the opposite bank." " But who will take us across, if you do not ?" " Truly ! " rephed Mpende, " I only wish you had come sooner to 2 Q 594 CEOSSING THE ZAMBESI. Chap. XXIX tell me about him; but you shall cross." Mpende said fre- quently he was sorry he had not known me sooner, but that he had been prevented by his enchanter from coming near me ; and he lamented that the same person had kept him from eatiQg the meat which I had presented. He did everji^hing he could after- wards to aid us on our course, and our departure was as different as possible from our approach to his village. I was very much pleased to find the English name spoken of ^vith. such great respect so far fr'om the coast, and most thankful that no collision occurred to damage its influence. 24:th. — Mpende sent two of liis principal men to order the people of a large island below to ferry us across. The river is very broad, and, though my men were well acquainted with the management of canoes, we could not all cross over before dark. It is 1200 yards from bank to bank, and between 700 and 800 of deep water, flowing at the rate of 3| miles per hour. We landed first on an island, then, to prevent om- friends playing false with us, hauled the canoes up to oiu- bivouac, and slept in them. Next morning we aU reached the opposite bank in safety. We observed as we came along the Zambesi that it had fallen two feet below the height at wliich we first found it, and the water, though still muddy enough to deposit a film at the bottom of vessels in a few hom-s, is not nearly so red as it was, nor is there so much ^^Teck on its sm-face. It is therefore not yet the j^eriod of the central Zambesi inundation, as we were aware also from our know- ledge of the interior. The present height of the water has been caused by rains outside the eastern ridge. The people here seem abundantly supplied vdih. English cotton goods. The Babisa are the medium of trade, for we were informed that the Bazunga, who formerly visited these parts, have been prevented by the war from coming for the last two years. The Babisa are said to be so fond of a tusk that they wiU even sell a newly man-ied wife for one. As we were now not far fr'om the latitude of Mozambique, I was somewhat tempted to strike away from the river to that port, instead of going to the S.E. in the direction the river flows, but, the great object of my journey being to secme water carriage, I resolved to continue along the Zambesi, though it did lead me among the enemies of the Portuguese. The region to the north of the ranges of hilLs on our left is called Senga, from being the Chap. XXIX. BAKWAIN THEORY OF RAIN. 595 country of the Basenga, who are said to be great workers in iron, and to possess abundance of fine iron-ore, which, when broken, shows veins of the pure metal in its substance. It has been well roasted in the operations of nature. Beyond Senga lies a range of mountains called Mashinga, to which the Portuguese in former times went to wash for gold, and beyond that, are great numbers of tribes which pass under the general term Maravi. To the N.E. there are extensive plains destitute of trees, but covered with grass, and in some places it is marshy. The whole of the country to the north of the Zambesi is asserted to be very much more fertile than that to the south. The Maravi, for instance, raise sweet potatoes of immense size, but when these are planted on the southern bank they soon degenerate. The root of this plant (convolvulus hatala) does not keep more than two or three days, unless it is cut into thin slices and dried in the sun, but the Maravi manage to preserve them for months by digging a pit and burying them therein enclosed in wood-ashes. Unfortunately, the Maravi, and all the tribes on that side of the country, are at enmity with the Portuguese, and, as they practise night attacks in then- warfare, it is dangerous to travel among them. 29th. — I was most sincerely thankful to find myself on the south bank of the Zambesi, and, having nothing else, I sent back one of my two spoons and a shirt as a thank-ofifermg to Mpende. The different head-men along this river act very much in concert, and if one refuses passage they all do, uttering the sage remark, " If so-and-so did not lend his canoes, he must have had some good reason." The next island we came to, was that of a man named Mozinkwa. Here we were detained some days by con- tinuous rams, and thought we observed the confirmation of the Bakwain theory of rains. A double tier of clouds floated quickly away to the west, and as soon as they began to come in an oppo- site direction the rains pom-ed down. The inhabitants who Live in a dry region like that of Kolobeng are nearly all as weather- wise as the rainmakers, and any one Kving amongst them for any length of time, becomes as much interested in the motions of the clouds as they are themselves. Mr. Moffat, who was as sorely tried by droughts as we were, and had his attention directed in the same way, has noted the curious phenomenon of thunder 2 Q 2 596 NATIVES' IDEAS OF THE ENGLISH. Chap. XXIX. ^vatliout clouds. Mrs. L. heard it once, but I never had that good fortune. It is worth the attention of the observant. Humboldt has seen rain without clouds, a phenomenon quite as singular. I haA^e been in the vicinity of the fall of three aerolites, none of Avhicli I could afterwards discover. One fell into the lake Kuma- dau with a report somewhat lilve a sharp peal of thunder. The women of the Balamitse villages there, all uttered a scream on hearing it. This happened at midday, and so chd another at what is called the Great Chuai, wliich was visible in its descent, and was also accompanied with a thundering noise. The third fell near Kuruman and at night, and was seen as a falling star by people at Motito and at Daniel's Kuil, places distant forty miles on opposite sides of the spot. It sounded to me Hke the report of a great gun, and a few seconds after, a lesser sound as if strildng the earth after a rebound. Does the passage of a few such aeroHtes through the atmosphere to the earth by day cause thunder without clouds ? We were detained here so long that my tent became again quite rotten. One of my men, after long sickness, which I did not understand, died here. He was one of the Batoka, and, when unable to walk, I had some difficulty in making liis companions carry liim. They wished to leave liim to die when his case became hopeless. Another of them deserted to Mozinkwa. He said that liis motive for doing so was that the Makololo had killed both Ins father and mother, and, as he had neither wife nor cliild, there was no reason why he should continue longer with them. I did not object to liis statements, but said if he should change liis mind he would be welcome to rejoin us, and intimated to Mozinkwa that he must not be sold as a slave. We are now among people mured to slave-deaHng. We were visited by men who had been as far as Tete or Nyungwe, and were told that we Avere but ten days from that fort. One of them, a Mashona man, who had come from a gi-eat distance to the S.W., was anxious to accompany us to the country of the white men ; he had travelled far, and I found that he had also Imowledge of the Enghsh tribe, and of then- hatred to the trade in slaves. He told Sekwebu that the " English were men," an emphasis being put upon the term men, which leaves the impres- sion that others are, as they express it in speaking scornfully, Chap. XXIX. DISLIKE TO SLAVE-BUYErvS. 597 " only things'' Several spoke in the same manner, and I found that from Mpende's doTOwards I rose higher every day m the estunation of my ovm. people. Even the slaves gave a very liigh chai-acter to the English, and I found out afterwards that, when I was first reported at Tete, the servants of my friend the Com- mandant said to him in joke, " Ah ! this is our brother who is coming ; we shall all leave you and go with him." We had still, however, some difficulties in store for us before reacliing that poiQt. The man who ^vished to accompany us came and told us before our departm-e that his wife would not allow him to go, and she herself came to confirm the decision. Here the women have only a small puncture m the upper hp, in which they insert a httle button of tm. The perforation is made by degrees, a rmg with an opening in it bemg attached to the lip, and the ends squeezed gTadually together. The pressure on the flesh between the ends of the ring causes its absorption, and a hole is the result. Clnldi-en may be seen with the rmg on the lip, but not yet punctured. The tin they purchase from the Portuguese, and, although silver is reported to have been found in fonner times in tliis district, no one could distinguish it from tm. But they had a knowledge of gold, and for the first time I heard the word " dalama " (gold) in the native language. The word is quite unkno'SMi m the interior, and so is the metal itself. In conversing mth the dijSerent people, we found the idea prevalent that those who had purchased slaves from them had done them an injuiy. All the slaves of Nyungwe," said one, " are our chilchen ; the Bazunga have made a towTi at our expense." When I asked if they had not taken the prices offered them, they at once admitted it, but still thought that they had been injured by being so far tempted. From the way in wliich the lands of Zumbo were spoken of as still belonging to the Portuguese (and they are said to have been obtained by purchase), I was inclined to conclude that the pm-chase of land is not looked upon by the inhabitants in the same hght as the pm-chase of slaves. February 1st. — We met some native traders, and, as many of my men were now in a state of nudity, I bought some American calico marked " Lam-ence IMills, Lowell," with two small tusks, and distributed it amongst the most needy. After leaving ]\[o- 598 SAND-RIVULET ZINGESI. Chap. XXTX. zinkwa's we came to the Ziiigesi, a sand rivulet in flood (lat. 15° 38' 34" S., long. 31° 1' E.). It was sixty or seventy yards wide, and waist-deep. Like aU these sand-rivers, it is for the most part dry ; but by digging down a few feet, water is to be found, wliich is percolating along the bed on a stratum of clay. This is the phenomenon which is dignified by the name of " a river flowing underground." In trying to ford this I felt thousands of particles of coarse sand striking my legs, and the slight dis- turbance of our footsteps caused deep holes to be made in the bed. The water, which is almost always very rapid in them, dug out the sand beneath our feet in a second or two, and we were all sinking by that means so deep, that we were glad to relinquish the attempt to ford it before we got halfway over; the oxen were carried away down into the Zambesi. These sand-rivers remove vast masses of disintegTated rock before it is fine enough to form soil. The man who preceded me was only tliigh-deep, but the disturbance caused by liis feet made it breast- deep for me. The shower of particles and gravel wliich struck against my legs, gave me the idea that the amount of matter removed by every freshet must be very great. In most rivers where much wearing is going on, a person diving to the bottom may hear literally thousands of stones knocking against each other. This attrition, being carried on for hundreds of miles in different rivers, must have an efi'ect greater than if aU the pestles and mortars and mills of the world, were g-rinding and wearing away the rocks. The pounding to which I refer, may be heard most distinctly in the Yaal Kiver, when that is slightly in flood. It was there I first heard it. In the Leeambye m the middle of the country, where there is no discoloration and httle carried along but sand, it is not to be heard. Wlnle opposite the village of a head-man called Mosusa, a number of elephants took refuge on an island in the river. There were two males, and a third not fuU-grown, indeed scarcely the size of a female. This was the first instance I had ever seen of a comparatively young one with the males, for they usually remain with the female herd till as large as their dams. The inhabitants were very anxious that my men should attack them, as they go into the gardens on the islands, and do much damage. The men went, but the elephants ran about half a Chap. XXIX. GAME-LAWS. 599 mile to the opposite end of tlie island, and swam to the main- land ^vith then- probosces above the water, and, no canoe bemg near, they escaped. They swim strongly, with the proboscis erect in the air. I was not very desirous to have one of these animals killed, for we understood that when we passed Mpende, we came into a country where the game-laws are strictly en- forced. The lands of each cliief are very well defined, the boundaries being usually marked by rivulets, great numbers of which flow into the Zambesi from both banks, and, if an elepliant is wounded on one man's land and dies on that of another, the under half of the carcase is claimed by the lord of the soil ; and so stringent is the law, that the hunter cannot begin at once to cut up his o^Yn elephant ; but mnst send notice to the lord of the soil on which it Hes, and wait until that personage sends one autho- rized to see a fair paitition made. If the hunter should begin to cut up before the agent of the landowner arrives, he is liable to lose both the tusks and all the flesh. The liind leg of a buflalo must also be given to the man on whose land the animal was grazing, and a still larger quantity of the eland, which here and everywhere else in the country is esteemed right royal food. In the coimtry above Zumbo we did not find a vestige of tliis law ; and but for the fact that it existed in the country of the Bamapela, far to the south of this, I should have been disposed to regard it in the same Light as I do the payment for leave to pass — an im- position levied on him who is seen to be weak because m the hands of his slaves. The only game-laws in the interior are, that the man who fii-st wounds an animal, though he has inflicted but a mere scratch, is considered the kOler of it, the second is entitled to a hind-quarter, and the third to a fore-leg. The cliiefs are" generally entitled to a share as tribute ; in some parts it is the breast, in others the whole of the ribs and one fore-leg. I gene- rally respected this law, although exceptions are sometimes made when animals are killed by g-uns. The knowledge that he who succeeds in reacliing the wounded beast first, is entitled to a share, stimulates the whole party to greater exertions in despatching it. One of my men, having a knowledge of elephant medicine, was considered the leader in the hunt ; he went before the others, examined the animals, and on liis decision aU depended. If he decided to attack a herd, the rest went boldly on; but if he 600 THE SPOTTED HYiENA. Chap. XXIX. decliiaecl, none of tliem would engage. A certain part of the elepliant belonged to liim by right of the office he held, and such was the faith in medicine held by the slaves of the Portuguese whom we met hunting, that they offered to pay tliis man hand- somely, if he would show them the elephant medicine. When near Mosusa's village we passed a rivulet called Chowe, now rimning with rain-water. The inhabitants there, extract a little salt from the sand when it is dry, and all the people of the adjacent country come to purchase it from them. Tliis was the first salt we had met with since leavmg Angola, for none is to be found m either the country of the Balonda or Bai'otse ; but we heard of salt-pans about a fortnight west of Naliele, and I got a small supply from M]3ololo while there. That had long since been finished, and I had again hved two months without salt, suffering no inconvenience except an occasional longing for animal food or miYk. In marching along, the rich reddish-brown soil was so clammy, that it was very difficult to walk. It is, however, extremely fertile, and the people cultivate amazing quantities of com, maize, millet, ground-nuts, pumpldns, and cucumbers. We observed that, when plants failed in one spot, they were in the habit of transj^lanting them into another, and they had also grown large numbers of young plants on the islands, where they are favoured by moistm-e from the river, and were now remorag them to the mainland. The fact of their being obKged to do tliis shows that there is less rain here than in Londa, for there we observed the grain in all stages of its gro^vth at the same time. The people here build then- huts in gardens on liigh stages. This is necessary on account of danger from the spotted hyaena, which is said to be very fierce, and also as a protection against lions and elephants. The hyaena is a very cowardly animal, but frequently approaches persons lying asleep, and makes an ugly gash on the face. Mozinkwa had lost liis upper Hp in tliis way, and I have heard of men being Idlled by them ; children too are sometimes earned off ; for though he is so cowardly that the human voice will make liim run away at once, yet, when his teeth are in the flesh, he holds on, and shows amazing power of jaw. Leg-bones of oxen, from which the natives have extracted the marrow and everything eatable, are by this animal crunched Chap. XXEX. A STINGY WHITE TRADEK. GOl up with the greatest ease, wliich he apparently effects by tiu-nhig them round in his teeth till they are in a suitable position for bemg split. We had now come among people who had plenty, and were really very Kberal. My men never returned from a village with- out some com or maize in then- hands. The real politeness with which food is given by nearly all the mterior tribes, who have not had much intercom-se with Europeans, makes it a pleasm-e to accept. Again and again I have heard an apology made for the smallness of the present, or regret expressed that they had not received notice of my approach in time to grind more, and gene- rally they readily accepted our excuse at having nothing to give in return, by saying that they were quite aware, that there are no white men's goods m the interior. When I had it in my power, I always gave sometlmig really useful. To Katema, Shinte, and others I gave presents wliich cost me about 21. each, and I could return to them at any time mtliout having a cha- racter for stinginess. How some men can offer tln:ee buttons, or some otlier equally contemptible gift, wdiile they have abundance in then- possession, is to me unaccountable. They surely do not know, when they write it in their boolis, that they are declaring they have compromised the honour of Englislunen. The people receive the offering with a degree of shame, and ladies may be seen to hand it quicldy to the attendants, and, when they rethe, laugh until the tears stand in their eyes, saying to those about them, "Is that a wliite man? then there are niggards among them too. Some of them are bom without hearts ! " One white trader, having presented an old gun to a cliief, became a standing joke in the tribe : " The wliite man who made a present of a gim that was new, when liis gTandfather was sucking liis great-grandmother." When these tricks are repeated, the natives come to the conclusion that people who show such a want of sense must be told their duty; they therefore let them Imow what they ought to give, and travellers then complain of being pestered with then- "shameless beggmg." I was troubled by importunity on the confines of civilization only, and when I first came to Africa. February 4cth. — We were much detained by rains, a henYj shower w^ithout wind falling every morning about daybreak ; it 602 BOROMA'S VILLAGE. Chap. XXIX. often cleared up after that, admitting of our moving on a few miles. A continuous rain of several hours then set in. The wind up to this point was always from the east, but both rain and \vind now came so generally from the west, or opposite direction to what we had been accustomed to in the interior, that we were obliged to make our encampment face the east, in order to have them in our backs. Tlie countiy adjacent to the river abounds in large trees ; but the population is so numerous, that those left being all green, it is difficult to get dry firewood. On coming to some places, too, we were warned by the villagers not to cut the trees growing in certain spots, as they contained the graves of their ancestors. There are many tamarind-trees, and another very similar, wliich yields a fruit as large as a small walnut, of which the elephants are very fond. It is called Motondo, and the Portug-uese extol its timber as excellent for building boats, as it does not soon rot in water. On the 6th we came to the \aQage of Boroma, wliich is situated among a number of others, each surrounded by extensive patches of cultivation. On the opposite side of the river we have a great cluster of conical lulls called Chorichori. Boroma did not make liis appearance, but sent a substitute who acted civilly. I sent Sekwebu in the morning to state that we intended to move on ; liis mother rephed that, as she had ex23ected that we should re- main, no food was ready, but she sent a basket of com and a fowl. As an excuse why Boroma did not present himself, she said that he was seized that morning by the Barimo, which probably meant that his lordship was drunk. We marched along the river to a point opposite the hill Pinkwe (lat. 15° 39' 11" S., long. 31° 48' E.), but the late abundant rains now flooded the Zambesi again, and great quantities of wreck appeared upon the stream. It is probable that frequent freshets, caused by the rains on this side of the ridge, have prevented the Portuguese near the coast, from recognising the one peculiar flood of inundation observed in the interior, and caused the belief that it is flooded soon after the commencement of the rains. The course of the Nile being in the opposite direction to this, it does not receive these subsidiary waters, and hence its inundation is recognised all the way along its course. If the Leeambye were prolonged southwards into the Cape Colony, its flood would be Chap. XXIX. FOSSIL TEEES. 603 identical with that of the Nile. It would not be influenced by any streams in the Kalahari, for tliere, as in a corresponding part of the Nile, there would be no feeders. It is to be remembered that the great ancient river wliich flowed to the lake at Boochap took this course exactly, and probably flowed thither until the fissure of the falls was made. This flood having filled the river, we found the numerous rivu- lets which flow into it, fiUed also, and when going along the Zam- besi, we lost so much time in passing up each little stream till we could find a ford about waist-deep, and then returning to the bank, that I resolved to leave the river altogether, and strike away to the S.E. We accordingly struck off when opposite the hill Pinkwe, and came into a hard Mopane country. In a hole of one of the mopane-trees, I noticed that a squu-rel (Scturus cepapi) had placed a great number of fresh leaves over a store of seed. It is not against the cold of winter that they thus lay up food, but it is a provision against the hot season, when the trees have generally no seed. A great many sihcified trees are met with lying on the ground all over tliis part of the country ; some are broken off horizontally, and stand upright ; others are lying prone and broken across into a number of pieces. One was 4 feet 8 inches in diameter, and the wood must have been soft like that of the baobab, for there were only six concentric rings to the inch. As the semi-diameter was only 28 inches, this large tree could have been but 168 years old. I found also a piece of palm-tree transformed into oxide of iron, and the pores fiUed with pure silica. These fossil trees He upon soft grey sandstone con- taining banks of shingle, which forms the underlying rock of the country all the way from Zumbo to near Lupata. It is met with at Litubaruba and in Angola, with similar banks of sliingle im- bedded exactly like those now seen on the sea-beach, but I never could find a shell. There are many nodules and mounds of hard- ened clay upon it, which seem to have been deposited in eddies made round the roots of these ancient trees, for they appear of different colours in wavy and twisted lines. Above this, we have small quantities of calcareous marl. As we were now in the district of Chicova, I exammed the geological structm-e of the country with interest, because here, it has been stated, there once existed silver-mines. The general 601 DISTRICT OF CHICOVA. Chap. XXIX. rock is tlie grey soft sandstone I have mentioned, but at the rivulet Bangiie, we come upon a dyke of basalt six yards wide, running north and south. When we cross tliis, we come upon several others, some of wliich run more to the eastward. The sandstone is then foimd to have been disturbed, and at the ri\^et called Nake we found it tilted up and exhibiting a section which was coarse sandstone above, sandstone-flag, shale, and lastly a tliin seam of coal. The section was only shown for a short dis- tance, and then became lost by a fault made by a dyke of basalt, wliich ran to the E.N.E. m the dhection of Cliicova. Tliis Cliicova is not a kingdom, as has been stated, but a level tract, a part of wliich is amiually overflowed by the Zambesi, and is well adapted for the cultivation of corn. It is said to be below the northern end of the hill Bung^^e. I was very much pleased iu discovermg this small specimen of such a precious mineral as coal. I saw no indication of silver, and, if it ever was worked by the natives, it is remarkable that they have entirely lost the knowledge of it, and cannot distuiguisli between silver and tin. In connexion with these basaltic dykes, it may be mentioned that when I reached Tete I was infomied of the existence of a small rapid in the river near Chicova ; had I known tliis pre- viously, I certainly would not have left the river without exa- muiing it. It is called Kebrabasa, and is described as a number of rocks, which jut out across the stream. I have no doubt but that it is formed by some of the basaltic dykes which we now saw, for they generally ran towards that point. I was partly iafluenced in leaving the river by a wish to avoid several cliiefs in that dhection, who leyj a heavy tribute on those who pass up or down. Our path lay along the bed of the Nake for some distance, the banl^s being covered with impenetrable thickets. The villages are not numerous, but we went from one to the other and were treated Idndly. Here they call themselves Bambiri, though the general name of the whole nation is Banydi. One of our giiides was an inveterate talker, always stopping and asldng for pay, that he might go on with a meiTy heart. I thought that he led us in the most difficult paths, m order to make us feel liis value, for, iiftcr passing tlu'ough one tliicket after another, we always came into tlie bed of the Nake again, and as that was full of coarse sand, and the water only ankle-deep, and as hot as a footbath Chap. XXIX. NYAMPUNGO TEE RAIN-CHAEIMEE. 605 from the powerful rays of the sim, we were all completely iked out. He likewise gave us a bad character at every AoQage we passed, calling to them that they were to allow him to lead us astray, as we were a bad set. Sekwebu Imew every word he said, and, as he became intolerable, I dismissed liim, gi^^ing him six feet of calico I had bought from native traders, and telluig liim that his tongue was a nuisance. It is in general best, when a scolchng is necessary, to give it in combination ^\ith a present, and then end it by good -s^dshes. This fellow went off smiling, and my men remarked, " His tongue is ciu-ed now." The countiy around the Nake is hilly, and the valleys covered with tangled jmigle. The people who Kve in this district have reclaimed their gardens from the forest, and the soil is extremely fertile. The Nake flows northerly, and then to the east. It is 50 or 60 yards wide, but dm-mg most of the year is dry, affording water only by digging in the sand. We found iu its bed masses of volcanic rock, identical with those which I subsequently recogTiised as such at Aden. ISth. — The head-man of these parts is named Nyampungo. I sent the last fraginent of cloth we had, mth a request that y\e should be furnished with a guide to the next chief. After a long conference with his council, the cloth was returned with a promise of compKance, and a request for some beads only. This man is supposed to possess the chaiTU for rain, and other tribes send to him to beg it. This shows that what we inferred before was cor- rect, that less raiu falls in this country than in Londa. Nyam- pungo behaved in quite a gentlemanly manner, presented me with some rice, and told my people to go amongst all the \allages and beg for themselves. An old man, father-in-law of the chief, told me that he had seen books before, but never Imew what they meant. They pray to departed chiefs and relatives, but the idea of praying to God seemed new, and they heard it mtli reverence. As this was an intelligent old man, I asked him about the silver, but he was as ignorant of it as the rest, and said, " We never dug silver, but we have washed for gold in the sands of the rivers Mazoe and Luia, which unite in the Luenya." I think that tliis is quite conclusive on the question of no silver having been dug by the natives of tliis district. Nyampungo is afflicted with a kind of disease called Sesenda, wliich I imagine to be a species of 606 WANT OF CATTLE. Chap. XXIX. leprosy common in this quarter, though they are a cleanly people. They never had cattle. The chief's father had always lived in their present position, and, when I asked him why he did not possess these useful animals, he said, " Who would give us the medicine to enable us to keep them ? " I found out the reason afterwards in the prevalence of tsetse, but of this he was ignorant, having supposed that he could not keep cattle because he had no medicine. Chap. XXX. ELEPHANT-HUNT. 607 CHAPTER XXX. An elephant-hunt — Offering and prayers to the Barimo for success — Native mode of expression — Working of game-laws — A feast — Laughing hyaenas — Numerous insects — Curious notes of birds of song — Cater- pillars — Butterflies — Silica — The fruit Mokoronga and elephants — Rhinoceros adventure — Korwe bird — Its nest — A real confinement — Honey and bees'-wax — Superstitious reverence for the lion — Slow tra- velling — Grapes — The L"e — Monma's village — Native names — Govern- ment of the Banj-ai — Electing a chief — Youths instructed in " Bonyai " — Suspected of falsehood — AVar-dance — Insanity and disappearance of Monahin — Fruitless search — Monina's sjTiipathy — The sand-river Tangwe — The ordeal Muavi : its victims — An unreasonable man — "Woman's rights" — Presents — Temperature — A winding course to shun villages — Banyai complexion and hair — Mushrooms — The tubers, Mokuri — The tree Shekabakadzi — Face of the country — Pot-holes — Pursued by a party of natives — Unpleasant threat — Aroused by a company of soldiers — A civilised breakfast — Arrival at Tete. 14:th. — We left Nyampungo this morning. The path wound up the MoliDge, another sand-river which flows into the Nake. When we got clear of the tangled jungle which covei-s the banks of these rivulets, we entered the Mopane coimtry, where we could walk with comfort. "\Mien we had gone on a few hours, my men espied an elephant, and were soon in full pursuit. They were in want of meat, ha\iQg tasted notliing but grain for several days. The*desire for animal food made them all eager to slay him, and, though an old bull, he was soon killed. The people of Nyam- pungo had never seen such desperadoes before. One rushed up and hamstrung the beast wliile still standing, by a blow with an axe. Some Banyai elephant-hunters happened to be present when my men were fightiug with him. One of them took out his snuff-box, and poured out all its contents at the root of a tree, as an offering to the Barimo for success. As soon as the animal fell, the whole of my party engaged lq a ^^ild savage dance roimd the body, wliicli quite frightened the Banyai, and he who made the offeruig said to me, " I see you are travelling with people who don't know how to pray: I therefore offered G08 GAME-LAWS — HYENAS. Chap. XXX. the oiily thing I had in theu' behalf, and the elephant soon fell." One of Nyampungo's men Avho remained with me, ran a little forward, ^Yhen an opening in the trees gave ns a view of the chase, and uttered loud prayers for success in the combat. I admired the devout belief they all possessed in the actual exist- ence of unseen beings, and prayed that they might yet know that benig-nant One who views us all as His own. My own. people, who are rather a degraded lot, remarked to me as I came* up, "God gave it to us. He said to the old beast, *Go up there ; men are come who will kill and eat you.' " These remarks are quoted to give the reader an idea of the native mode of expression. A.S we were now in the country of stringent game-laws, we were obliged to send all the way back to Nyampungo, to give information to a certain person who had been left there by the real OA^Tier of this district to watch over his property, the owner himself Kvmg near the Zambesi. The side upon which the ele- phant fell, had a short broken tusk ; the upper one, ^vhich was ours, was large and tliick. The Banyai remarked on our good luck. The men sent to give notice, came back late in the after- noon of the following day. They brought a basket of com, a fowl, and a few strings of handsome beads, as a sort of thank- offering for oiu' haAdng killed it on their land, and said they had thanked the Barimo besides for our success- adding " There it is ; eat it and be glad." Had we begun to cut it up before we got this permission, we should have lost the whole. They had brought a large party to eat their half, and they divided it with us in a friendly way. My men were deh'ghted with the feast, thougfi, by lying unopened a whole day, the carcase was pretty far gone. An astonishing number of hysenas collected round, and kept up a loud laughter for two whole m'ghts. Some of them do make a very good imitation of a laugh. I asked my men what the hyaenas were laughing at ; as they usually give animals credit for a share of intelligence ; they said, that they were laugliing because we could not take the whole, and that they would have plenty to eat as well as we. On coming to the part where the elephant was slain, we passed tlu-ough grass so tall that it reminded me of that in the valley of Cassange. Insects are very numerous after the rains commence. Chap. XXX. INSECT LIFE— BIRDS. 609 While waiting by the elephant, I observed a great number of insects, like graiQS of fine sand, moviag on my boxes. On exa- miaation with a glass, four species were apparent ; one of green and gold preening its wmgs, wliich glanced in the sun mth metalKc lustre, another clear as crystal, a tlnrd of the colour of vermilion, and a fourth black. These are probably some of those which consume the seeds of every plant that grows. Almost every kind, has its own pecuhar insect, and when the rains are over, very few seeds remaia untouched. The rankest poisons, as the Kongwhane and Euphorbia are soon devoured — the former has a scarlet insect ; and even the fiery bird's-eye pepper, wliich will keep off many others from theii- own seeds, is itself devoured by a maggot. I observed here, what I had often seen before, that certain districts abound in centipedes. Here they have light reddish bodies and blue legs ; gTeat myriapedes are seen crawling every^^here. Although they do no harm, they excite in man a feeling of loatliing. Perhaps om- appearance pro- duces a similar feeliug in the elephant and other large animals. Where they have been much disturbed, they certainly look upon us with gTeat distrust, as the hon-id biped that ruuis then peace. In the quietest parts of the forest there is heard a faint but distinct hum, which tells of uisect joy. One may see many whisking about in the clear sunshine in patches among the green glancing leaves; but there are invisible myriads working with never-tiring mandibles on leaves, and stalks, and beneath the soil. They are all brimful of enjoyment. Indeed the univer- sahty of organic life may be called a mantle of happy existence encircling the world, and imparts the idea of its being caused by the consciousness of our benignant Father's smile on all the works of His hands. The birds of the tropics have been described as generally want- ing in power of song. I was decidedly of opinion that tliis was not applicable to many parts in Londa, though birds there are remarkably scarce. Here the chorus, or body of song, was not much smaller m volume than it is in England. It was not so harmonious, and soimded always as if the birds were singing in a foreign tongue. Some resemble the lark, and mdeed there are several of that family ; two have notes not unlike those of the thrush. One brought the chaffinch to my mmd, and another 2 R GIO BIRDS— CATERPILLARS. Chap. XXX. the robin ; but their songs are inteimixed with several curious abrupt notes unlike anything English. One utters deliberately " peek, pak, pok ;" another has a single note like a stroke on a viohn-string. The mokwa reza gives forth a screaming set of notes like our blackbu'd when disturbed, then concludes with what the natives say is " pula, pula " (rain, rain), but more like " weep, weep, weep." Then we have the loud cry of francoHns, the " pumj)uru, 23umpuru " of tm-tle-doves, and the " chiken, chiken, chik, churr, churr " of the honey-guide. Occasionally near vil- lages we have a kind of mocking bird, imitating the caUs of domestic fowls. These African birds have not been wanting in song, they have only lacked poets to sing their praises, which ours have had from the time of Aristophanes downwards. Ours have both a classic and a modern interest to enhance their fame. In hot dry weather, or at midday when the sun is fierce, all are still : let, however, a good shower fall, and all burst forth at once into merry lays and loving courtship. The early mornings and the cool evenings are their favourite times for singing. There are comparatively few with gaudy plumage, being totally unlike, in this respect, the birds of the Brazils. The majority have decidedly a sober di-ess, though collectors, having gene- rally selected the gaudiest as the most valuable, have conveyed the idea that the birds of the tropics for the most part possess gorgeous plumage. loth. — Several of my men have been bitten by spiders and other insects, but no effect except pain has followed. A large caterpillar is frequently seen, called lezuntabuea. It is covered with long grey hairs, and, the body being dark, it resembles a porcupine in minature. If one touches it, the hairs run into the pores of the skin, and remain there, gi^^g sharp pricks. There are others which have a similar means of defence ; and when the hand is drawn across them, as in passing a bush on wliicli they happen to be, the contact resembles the stinging of nettles. From the great number of caterpillars seen, we have a considerable variety of butterflies. One particular kind flies more like a swallow than a butterfly. They are not remarkable for the gaudi- ness of their colours. In passmg along we crossed the liiUs Vungue or Mvungwe, which we found to be composed of various eruptive rocks. At Chap. XXX. THE liHlXOCEROS. 611 one part we have breccia of altered marl or slate in quartz, and various amygdaloids. It is curious to observe the different, forms whicb silica assumes. We have it in clay stone porphyry here, in minute round globules, no larger than tuniip-seed, dotted tliicldy over the matrix ; or crystallised round the ^ alls of cavities, once filled with an-, or other elastic fluid ; or it may appear in similar ca\'ities as tufts of yellow asbestos, or as red, yellow, or green crystals, or in laminae so arranged as to appear like fossil wood. Yungue forms the watershed between those sand rivulets ^v\\ich. run to the N.E. and others wliicli flow southward, as the Kapopo, Ue, and Due, wliicli run into the Luia. We found that many elephants had been feeding on the fruit called Mokoronga. This is a black-coloured plum, ha^^ng purple juice. We all ate it in large quantities, as we found it dehcious. The only defect it has, is the gTcat size of the seed in comparison with the pulp. This is the chief fault of aU uncultivated wild fruits. The Mokoronga exists tlnoughout this part of the country most abundantly, and the natives eagerly devour it, as it is said to be perfectly wholesome, or, as they express it, " It is pure fat," and fat is by them considered the best of food. Though only a little larger than a cherry, we found that the elephants had stood picking them off" patiently by the hour. We observed the foot- prints of a black rhinoceros {Rhinoceros hieornis, Lian.) and her calf. We saw other footpi-ints among the hills of Semalembue, but the black rhinoceros is remarkably scarce ia all the country north of the Zambesi. The white rhinoceros {Rhinoceros simus of Burchell), or Mohohu of the Bechuanas, is quite extinct here, and will soon become unknown iu the country to the south. It feeds almost entirely on grasses, and is of a timid unsuspecting disposition : tliis renders it an easy prey, and they are slaughtered without mercy on the introduction of fire-aiTQs. The black pos- sesses a more savage natm*e, and, like the ill-natured in general, is never found with an ounce of fat in its body. From its greater fierceness and wariness, it holds its place in a district much longer than its more timid and better conditioned neighbour. Mr. OsweU was once stalking two of these beasts, and as they came slowly to him, he, knowino: that there is but Kttle chance of liittino; the •'small brain of tliis animal by a shot in the head, lay expecting one of them to give his shoulder, till he was witliin a few yards. 2 R 2 612 THE RHINOCEROS. Chap. XXX. The hunter then thought that by making a rush to his side he might.succeed in escaping, but the rliinoceros, too quick for that, turned upon liim, and though he discharged liis g-un close to the animal's liead he was tossed in the ah. My friend was insen- sible for some time, and on recovering found large wounds on the thigh and body : I saw that on the formei- part still open and five inches long. The w^iite, however, is not always quite safe, for one, even after it was mortally wounded, attacked Mr. Oswell's horse, and tlnaist the horn through to the saddle, tossing at the time both horse and rider. I once saw a wliite rliino- ceros give a buffalo wliich was^ gazing intently at myself a poke in the chest, but it did not wound it, and seemed only a liint to get out of the way. Four varieties of the rhinoceros are enumerated by naturalists, but my observation led me to con- clude that there are but tw^o ; and that the extra species have been formed from differences in their sizes, ages, and the direction of the horns, as if we should reckon the short-homed cattle a different species from the Alderneys or the Highland breed. I was led to this, from having once seen a black rhinoceros with a horn bent downwards, like that of the kuabaoba, and also because the animals of the two great varieties differ very much in appearance at different stages of their growth, I find, however, that Dr. Smith, the best judge in these matters, is quite decided as to the propriety of the subdivision into three or four species. For common readers it is sufficient to remember that there are two well-defined species, that differ entirely in appearance and food. The absence of both these rlunoceroses among the reticulated rivers in the central valley may easily be accoimted for, they would be such an easy prey to the natives in their canoes at the periods of inundation ; but one camiot so readily account for the total absence of the giraffe and the ostrich on the high open lands of the Batoka, north of the Zambesi, unless we give credence to the native report wliich bounds the country still further north by another network of waters near Lake Sliuia, and suppose that it also prevented then- progi-ess southwards. The Batoka have no name for the giraffe or the ostrich in their language ; yet, as the former exists in con- siderable numbers in the angle formed by the Leeambye and Chobe, they may have come from the north along the western ridge. The Chobe would seem to have been too nan-ow to act as Chap. XXX. CONFINEMENT OF THE KORWE. 613 an obstacle to the giraffe, supposing it to have come into that district from the south ; but the broad ri^^er mto ^vllich that stream flows, seems always to have presented an impassable barrier to both the giraffe and the ostrich, though they abound on its southern border, both in the Kalahari Desert and the country of Mashona. We passed tlu-ough large tracts of Mopane country, and my men cauglit a gTeat many of the birds called Korwe {TocJcus cry- ihrorliynchus) m their breeding-places, wliich were m holes in the mopane-trees. On the 19th Ave passed the nest of a korwe, just ready for the female to enter : the orifice was plastered on both sides, but a space was left of a heart shape, and exactly the size of the bird's body. The hole in the tree was in every case found to be prolonged some distance upwards above the opening, and thither the korwe ahvays fled to escape being caught. In another nest we found that one white egg, much like that of a pigeon, was laid, and the bhd dropped another when captured. She had four besides m the ovarium. The fii-st time that I saw tliis bird was at Kolobeng, where I had gone to the forest for some timber. Standing by a tree, a native looked behind me and ex- claimed, " There is the nest of a korwe." I saw a sKt only, about half an inch wide and three or four inches long, in a shght hollow of the tree. Thinking the word korwe denoted some small animal, I waited with mterest to see what he would extract ; he broke the clay which surrounded the slit, put his arm into the hole, and brought out a Tockxis^ or red-leaked Jiornhill, wliich he Idlled. He informed me that when the female enters her nest she submits to a real confinement. The male plasters up the entrance, leavuig only a narrow sKt by which to feed his mate, and wliich exactly suits the form of his beak. The female makes a nest of her own feathers, lays her eggs, hatches them, and remains with the young till they are fully fledged. Durmg all tliis time, wliich is stated to be two or three months, the male contmues to feed her and the young family. The pri- soner generally becomes quite fat, and is esteemed a very daiaty morsel by the natives, wlnle the poor slave of a husband gets so lean that, on the sudden low^eruig of the temperature which some- times happens after a fall of ram, he is benumbed, falls down, and dies. I never had an opportunity of ascertaining the actual 614 HONEY AND WAX. Chap. XXX. length of the confinement, but on passing the same tree at Kolo- beng about eight days afterwards, the hole was plastered up again, as if, in the short time that had elapsed, the disconsolate husband had secured another wife. We did not disturb her, and my duties prevented me from returning to the spot. This is the month in which the female enters the nest. We had seen one of these, as before mentioned, mth the plastering not quite finished; we saw many completed; and w^e received the very same account here that we did at Kolobeng, that the bird comes forth when the young are fully fledged, at the period when the com is ripe ; indeed, her appearance abroad with her yomig is one of the signs they have for knowing when it ought to be so. As that is about the end of April, the time is between two and tln-ee months. She is said sometimes to hatch two eggs, and, when the young of these are full-fledged, other two are just out of the egg-shells : she then leaves the nest wdth the two elder, the orifice is again plastered ivp, and both male and female attend to the wants of the young which are left. On several occasions I observed a branch bearing the marks of the male having often sat upon it when feeding liis mate, and the excreta had been ex- pelled a full yard from the orifice, and often proved a means of discovering the retreat. The honey-guides were very assiduous m their friendly offices, and enabled my men to get a large quantity of honey ; but though bees abound, the wax of these parts forms no article of trade. In Londa it may be said to be fully cared for, as you find hives placed upon trees in the most lonesome forests. often met strings of carriers laden with large blocks of tliis substance, each 80 or 100 lbs. in weight, and pieces were offered to us for sale at every ^Tillage ; but here we never saw a single artificial hive. The bees were always found in the natm-al cavities of mopane- trees. It is probable that the good market for wax afforded to Angola by the churches of Brazil, led to the gradual develop- ment of that branch of commerce there. I saw even on the banks of the Quango as much as sixpence paid for a pound. In many parts of the Batoka country, bees exist in vast numbers ; and the tribute due to Sekeletu is often paid in large jars of honey ; but having no market nor use for the w^ax, it is tlirown away. This w\as the case also with ivory at the Lake Ngami, at the Chap. XXX. SLOW TEAVELLIXG. 615 period of its discovery. The reports brought by my other party from Loanda of the value of wax, had induced some of my present companions to bring small quantities of it to Tete, but, not knowing the proper mode of preparing it, it was so dark coloured that no one would purchase it; I afterwards saw a Httle at Kih'mane, which had been procured from the natives somewhere in this region. Though we are now approaching the Portuguese settlement, the country is still full of large game. My men killed six buffalo calves out of a herd we met. The abimdance of these animals, and also of antelopes, shows the insufficiency of the bow and aiTOW to lessen their numbers. There are also a great many lions and hyaenas, and there is no check upon the increase of the former, for the people, behe^'ing that the souls of their cliiefs enter into them, never attempt to Idll them ; they even beHeve that a chief may metamorphose himself into a Hon, kill any one he chooses, and then return to the human form ; therefore when they see one they commence clapping then- hands, which is the usual mode of salutation here. The consequence is, that lions and hyrenas are so abundant, that we see little huts made in trees, indicating the places where some of the inhabitants have slept when benighted in the fields. As niunbers of my men frequently left the line of march in order to take out the korwes from their nests, or follow the honey-guides, they excited the astonishment of our guides, who were constantly waiTung them of the danger they thereby incurred from lions. I was often considerably ahead of the main body of my men on this account, and was obliged to stop every hour or two, but, the sun bemg excessively hot by day, I was glad of the excuse for resting. We could make no such prodigious strides as officers in the Arctic regions are able to do. Ten or twelve miles a day were a good march for both the men and myself, and it was not the length of the marches, but continuing day after day to perform the same dis- tance, that was so fatiguing. It Avas in this case much longer than appears on the map, because we kept out of the way of villages. I drank less than the natives when riding, but all my clotliing was now constantly damp from the moisture which was imbibed in large quantities at every pond. One. does not stay on these occasions to prepare water with alum or anything else, but 616 GRAPES— THE UE. Chap. XXX. drinks any amount without fear. I never felt the atmosphere so steamy as on the low-lying lands of the Zambesi, and yet it was becoming cooler than it was on the highlands. We crossed the rivulets Kapopo and Tie, now running, but usually dry. There are great numbers of mid grape-vines growing in this quarter ; indeed they abound everywhere along the banks of the Zambesi. In the Batoka country there is a variety wliich yields a black grape of considerable sweetness. The leaves are very large and harsh, as if capable of withstanding the rays of this hot sun ; but the most common kinds — one Anth a round leaf and a greenish gTape, and another with a leaf closely resembling that of the cultivated varieties, and with dark or pm-ple fruit — have large seeds, which are strongly astringent and render it a disagreeable fruit. The natives eat all the varieties ; and I tasted vinegar made by a Portuguese from these grapes. Probably a country w^hich yields the wild vines so very abundantly, might be a fit one for tlie cultivated species. At this part of tlie journey so many of the ^ines had run across the Httle foot- path we followed, that one had to be constantly on the watch to avoid being tripped. The ground was covered mth rounded sliingle, wliicli was not easily seen among the grass. Pedestrian- ism may be all very well for those whose obesity requires much exercise, but for one who was becoming as thin as a lath, througli the constant perspiration caused by marching day after day in the hot sun, the only good I saw in it was, that it gave an honest sort of man a vivid idea of the treadmill. Although the rains were not quite over, gi-eat numbers of pools were drying up, and the ground was in many parts covered with small, green, cryptogamous plants, which gave it a mouldy appearance and a strong smell. As we sometimes pushed aside the masses of rank vegetation which hung over om- path, we felt a sort of hot blast on our faces. Everything looked unwhole- some, but we had no fever. The Ue flows between liigh banks of a soft red sandstone streaked with white, and pieces of tufa. The crumbling sandstone is evidently alluvial, and is cut into, 12 feet deep. In tliis region, too, we met with pot-holes, six feet deep and three or fom- in diameter. In some cases they form convenient wells ; in others they are full of earth ; and in others still, the people have made them into graves for their chiefs. Chap. XXX. NATIVE NAJMES. 617 On the 20th we came to Momna's village (close to the sand- river Tangvve, lat. 16° 13' 38" S., long. 32° 32' E.). This man is very popular among the tribes on account of his liberality. Boroma, Nyamj)tingo, Moni'na, Jira, Katolosa (Monomotapa), and Stisa, all aclmowledge the supremacy of one called Nyatewe, who is reported to decide all disputes respecting land. This con- federation is exactly similar to what we observed in Londa and other parts of Africa. Katolosa is " the Emperor Monomotapa " of history, but he is a chief of no great power, and acknowledges the supremacy of Nyatewe. The Portuguese formerly honoured Monomotapa with a guard, to fire off numbers of guns on the occasion of any funeral, and he was also partiaUy subsidized. The only evidence of greatness possessed by his successor, is his having about a hundred wives. Wlien he dies, a disputed suc- cession and much fighting are expected. In reference to the term Monomotapa, it is to be remembered that Mono, Moene, Mona, Mana, or Mordna, mean simply chief, and considerable confusion has arisen from naming different people by making a plural of the chief's name. The names Monomoizes, spelt also Monemuiges and Monomuizes, and Monomotapistas, when appHed to these tribes are exactly the same as ff we should call the Scotch the Lord Douglases. Motape was the chief of the Bambiri, a tribe of the Banyai, and is now represented in the person of Katolosa. He was probably a man of greater energy than his successor, yet only an insignificant chief. Monomoizes was formed from Moiza or Muiza, the singular of the word Babi'sa or Aiza, the proper name of a large tribe to the north. In the transformation of this name the same error has been com- mitted as in the others ; and mistakes have occurred in many other names by inattention to the meaning, and predilection for the letter r. The river Loangw^a, for instance, has been termed Arroangoa; and the Luenya, the Kuanha. The Bazizulu, or Mashona, are spoken of as the Moruriirus. The government of the Banyai is rather peculiar, being a sort of feudal repubHcanism. The chief is elected, and they choose the son of the deceased cliief's sister in preference to his omi offspring. When dissatisfied mth one candidate, they even go to a distant tribe for a successor, who is usually of the family of the late chief, a brother, or a sister's son, but never his own son 618 GOVERNMENT OF THE BAKYAI. Chap. XXX. or daughter. first spoken to on the subject, he answers as if he thought himself unequal to the task and unworthy of the honour, but, having accepted it, all the wives, goods, and children of his predecessor belong to him, and he takes care to keep them in a dependent position. When any one of them becomes tired of tliis state of vassalage and sets up his own village, it is not unusual for the elected chief to send a number of the young men, who congregate about himself, to \dsit him. If he does not receive them mth the usual amount of clapping of hands and humility, they, in obedience to orders, at once burn liis village. The children of the chief have fewer privileges than coin m on free men. They may not be sold, but, rather than choose any one of them for a chief at any future time, the free men would prefer to elect one of themselves who bore only a very distant relationship to the family. These free men are a distinct class who can never be sold ; and under them there is a class of slaves whose appearance as w^eU as position is very degTaded. Monina had a great number of yoimg men about him from twelve to fifteen years of age. These were aU sons of free men, and bands of young lads like them in the different districts, leave theii' parents about the age of puberty, and live with such men as Monina for the sake of instruction. When I asked the natm-e of the instruction I w^as told " Bonyai," which I suppose may be understood as indicating manhood, for it sounds as if we should say, " to teach an American, Americanism," or " an English- man to be Enghsh." While here they are kept in subjection to rather stringent regulations. They must salute carefuUy by clapping their hands on approaching a superior, and when any cooked food is brought, the young men may not approach the dish, but an elder di^-ides a portion to each. They remain unmarried, until a fresh set of youths is ready to occupy then- place under the same instruction. The parents send servants with their sons to cultivate gardens to supply them with food, and also tusks to Monina to purchase clothing for them. When the lads retm-n to the village of theii' parents, a case is submitted to them for adjudication, and if they speak weU on the point, the parents are highly gratified. When we told IMonina that we had nothing to present but some hoes, he replied that he was not in need of those articles. Chap. XXX. INSANITY AND DISAPPEARANCE OF MONAHIN. 619 and that he had absolute power over the country in front, and if he prevented us from proceeding, no one would say any- thing to him. His little boy Boromo having come to the encampment to look at us, I gave him a knife, and he went off and brought a pint of honey for me. The father came soon afterwards, and I offered him a sliirt. He remarked to liis councillors, " It is e^adent, that this man has notliing, for, if he had, liis people would be buying provisions, but we don't see them going about for that purpose." His council did not agree in this. They evidently believed that we had goods, but kept them hid, and we felt it rather hard to be suspected of falsehood. It was probably at their suggestion that in the evening a w^ar-dance was got up, about a himdred yards from our encampment, as if to put us in fear and force us to bring forth presents. Some of Monina's young men had guns, but most were armed Avith large bows, arrows, and spears. They beat their drums furiously, and occasionally fired off a gun. As tliis sort of dance is never got up unless there is an intention to attack, my men expected an assault. We sat and looked at them for some time, and then, as it became dark, lay down, all ready to give them a w^arm reception. But an hour or two after dark the dance ceased, and, as we then saw no one approaching us, we went to sleep. During the night, one of my head-men, Monahin, was seen to get up, look towards the village, and say to one who was half awake, " Don't you hear what these people are saying ? Go and listen ! " He then walked off in the opposite direction and never returned. We had no guard set, but every one lay with his spear in his hand. The man to whom he spoke appears to have been in a dreamy condition, for it did not strike him that he ought to give the alarm. Next morning I found to my sorrow that Monaliin was gone, and not a trace of him could be discovered. He had an attack of plem-itis some weeks before, and had recovered, but latterly complained a little of liis head. I observed him in good spu'its on the way hither, and in crossing some of the streams, as I was careful not to wet my feet, he aided me, and several times joked at my becoming so light. In the evening he sat beside my tent until it was dark, and did not manifest any great alami. It was probably either a sudden fit of insanity, or, having gone a Httle way out from the camp, he 620 SA^^D-RIYER TANG WE. Chap. XXX. may have been carried off by a lion, as tliis part of the country is full of them. I incline to the former opinion, because sudden insanity occurs when there is any unusual strain upon their minds. Monahui was m command of the Batoka of Mokwm^ in my party, and he was looked upon with great dislike by all that chief's subjects. The only difficulties I had vdth. them arose in consequence of bemg obliged to give orders through him. They said Mokwine is reported to have been killed by the Makololo, but Monahin is the individual who put forth his hand and slew him. AVhen one of these people kills in battle, he seems to have no compunction afterwards, but when he makes a foray on liis own responsibility, and kills a man of note, the common people make remarks to each other, Vv'hich are reported to him, and bring the affah- perpetually to his remembrance. This iteration on the conscience causes msanity, and when one runs away in a wide country like this, the fugitive is never heard of. Monahin had lately become afraid of his own party from over- hearing their remarks, and said more than once to me, " They want to kill me." I beheve if he ran to any village they would take care of him. I felt his loss greatly, and spent tln-ee days in searching for liim. He was a sensible and most obliging man. I sent in the morning to infomi Monina of this sad event, and he at once sent to all the gardens around, desii'ing the people to look for liim, and, should he come near, to bring liim home. He e\idently sympathised with us in om* sorrow, and, afi*aid lest we might suspect him, added, " We never catch nor kidnap people here. It is not our custom. It is considered as guilt among aU the tribes." I gave liim credit for tmthfulness, and he allowed us to move on without fui-ther molestation. After leaving his Aollage we marched in the bed of a sand- river a quarter of a mile broad, caUed Tangwe. Walking on this sand is as fatiguing as walkuig on snow. The country is flat, and covered with low trees, but we see high hills in the distance. A httle to the south we have those of the Lobole. Tliis region is very much infested by Hons, and men never go any distance into the woods alone. Ha^dng turned aside on one occasion at midday, and gone a short distance among grass a httle taller than myself, an animal sj^rung away from me which was certainly not an antelope, but I could not distinguish whether it was a Hon (^AP. XXX. THE ORDEAL MUAVI. 621 or a hyaena. This abundance of carnivora made us lose all hope of Monalim. We saw footprmts of many black rlimoceroses, buf- faloes, and zebras. After a few hoiu:s we reached the village of Nyakoba. Two men, who accompanied us jfrom Monina to Nyakoba's, would not Ijelieve us when we said that we had no beads. It is very trying to have one's veracity djDubted, but, on opening the boxes, and showing them that aU I had was perfectly useless to them, they consented to receive -some beads off Sekwebu's w^aist, and I promised to send four yards of caHco from Tete. As we came away from Monina's village, a witch-doctor, who had been sent for, arrived, and all Moniua's wives went forth uito the fields that morrdng fastmg. There they would be compelled to drink an infusion of a plant named " goho," which is used as an ordeal. Tliis ceremony is called " muavi," and is performed in tliis way. Wlien a man suspects that any of his wives have bewitched him, he sends for the witch-doctor, and all the wives go forth mto the field, and remain fastmg till tliat person has made an uifusion of the plant. They all drink it, each one holding up her hand to heaven in attestation of her innocency. Those who vomit it are considered innocent, w^hile those whom it pm-ges are pro- nounced guilty, and put to death by burning. The innocent return to their homes, and slaughter a cock as a thank-offering to their guardian spii'its. The practice of ordeal is common among all the negro nations north of the Zambesi. This sum- mary procedure excited my surprise, for my intercourse with tlie natives here had led me to believe, that the women were held in so much estimation that the men would not dare to get rid of them thus. But the explanation I received was this. The slightest imputation makes them eagerly desire the test ; they are conscious of being innocent, and have the fullest faith in the muavi detecting the guilty alone ; hence they go willingly, and even eagerly, to drink it. When in Angola, a half-caste was pointed out to me, who is one of the most successful merchants in that country ; and the mother of this gentleman, who was perfectly free, went, of her own accord, all the way from Am- baca to Cassange, to be killed by the ordeal, her rich son malving no objection. The same custom prevails among the Barotse, Basliubia, and Batoka, but with slight variations. The 622 woma:n'S eights. Chap. XXX. Barotse, for instance, pom- the medicine down the throat of a cock or of a dog, and judge of the innocence or guilt of the person accused, according to the vomiting or purging of the ani- mal. I happened to mention to my own men the water-test for witches formerly in use in Scotland : the supposed witch, being bound hand and foot, was tin-own into a pond ; if she floated, she was considered guilty, taken out, and burned ; but if she sank and was drowned, she was pronounced innocent. The wisdom of my ancestors excited as much wonder in their minds, as their custom did m mine. The person whom Nyakoba appointed to be our guide, having informed us of the decision, came and bargained that his services should be rewarded with a hoe. I had no objection to give it, and showed liim the article ; he was delighted with it, and went olf to show it to his wife. He soon afterwards returned, and said that, though he was perfectly willing to go, his wife would not let him. I said, Then bring back the hoe ;" but he re- plied, "I want it." "Well, go with us, and you shall have it." " But my wife won't let me." I remarked to my men, " Did you ever hear such a fool ? " They answered, " Oh, that is the custom of these parts ; the wives are the masters." And Sekwebu informed me that he had gone to this man's house, and heard him saymg to his wife, " Do you think that I would ever leave you ? " then, turning to Sekwebu, he asked, " Do you think I would leave this pretty woman ? Is she not pretty ? " Sekwebu had been making inquiries among the people, and had found that the women indeed j)ossessed a great deal of influence. We questioned the guide whom we finally got from Nyakoba, an intel- ligent young man, who had much of the Arab features, and found the statements confirmed. WTien a young man takes a liking to a girl of another village, and the parents have no objection to the match, he is obliged to come and live at their village. He has to perform certain services for the mother-in- law, such as keeping her well supj)lied with firewood ; and when he comes into her presence he is obliged to sit with his knees in a bent position, as putting out his feet towards the old lady would give her great offence. If he becomes tired of living in this state of vassalage, and wishes to return to liis own family, he is obliged to leave all his children behind — they belong to the Chap. XXX. WOMAN'S RIGHTS. 623 wife. This is only a more stringent enforcement of the law from which emanates the practice which prevails so very exten- sively in Africa, known to Europeans as " buying wives." Such virtually it is, but it does not appear quite in tliat light to the actors. So many head of cattle or goats are given to the parents of the girl, " to give her up," as it is termed, i. e. to forego all claim on her offsjDring, and allow an entire transference of her and her seed into another family. If nofhing is given, the • family from which she' has come can claim the cliildren as part of itself: the payment is made to sever this bond. In tlie case supposed, the young man has not been able to advance anything for that purpose ; and, from the temptations placed here before my men, I have no doubt that some prefer to have their daughters married in that way, as it leads to the increase of their own village. My men excited the admiration of the Bambiri, who took them for a superior breed on account of their bravery in elephant-hunting, and wished to get them as sons-in-law on the conditions named, but none yielded to the temptation. We w^ere informed that there is a child belonging to a half- caste Portuguese in one of these tribes, and the father had tried in vain to get him from the mother's parents. We saw several things to confirm the impression of the higher position which women hold here; and, being anxious to discover if I were not mistaken, when we came amongst the Portuguese I inquired of them, and was told that they had ascertained the same thing ; and that, if they wished a man to perform any service for them, he would reply, " Well, I shall go and ask ^ my wife." If she consented, he would go, and perform his duty faithfully ; but no amount of coaxing or bribery would induce him to do it if she refused. The Portuguese praised the appearance of the Banyai, and they certainly are a fine race. We got on better with Nyakoba than we expected. He has been so much affected by the sesenda that he is quite decrepit, and requires to be fed. I at once showed his messenger that we had nothing whatever to give. Nyakoba was offended with him for not believing me, and he immediately sent a basket of maize and another of corn, saying that he believed my state- 624 THE BANYAI. Chap. XXX. ment, and would send men witli me to Tete who would not lead me to any other village. The birds here sing very sweetly, and I thought I heard the canary, as in Londa. We had a heavy shower of rain, and I observed that the thermometer sank 14° in one hour afterwards. From the beginning of February we experienced a sensible diminution of temperature. In January the lowest was 75°, • and that at sunrise ; the average at the same hour (sunrise) being 79° ; at 3 p.m., 90° ; and at sunset, 82°. In February it feU as low as 70° in the course of the night, and the average height was 88°. Only once did it rise to 94°, and a thunder- storm followed this ; yet the sensation of heat was greater now than it had been at much higher temperatures on more elevated lands. We passed several villages by going roundabout ways through the forest. We saw the remains of a lion that had been killed by a buffalo, and the horns of a putokwane (black antelojDe), the finest I had ever seen, which had met its death by a lion. The drums beating all night in one village near which we slept, showed that- some person in it had finished his com'se. On the occasion of the death of a chief, a trader is liable to be robbed, for the people consider themselves not amenable to law until a new one is elected. We continued a very winding course, in order to avoid the chief Katolosa, who is said to levy large sums upon those who fall into his hands. One of om- guides was a fine tall young man, the very image of Ben-Habib the Arab. They were carrying dried buffalo's meat to the market at Tete as a private speculation. A great many of the Banyai are of a light coffee-and-milk colour, and indeed this colour is considered handsome through- out the whole country, — a fair complexion being as much a test of beauty with them as with us. As they draw out their hair into small cords a foot in length, and entwine the inner bark of a certain tree round each separate cord, and dye tins substance of a reddish colour, many of them put me in mind of the ancient Egyptians. The great mass of dressed hair which they possess, reaches to the shoulders, but, when they intend to travel, they draw it up to a bunch, and tie it on the top of tlie head. Tliey are cleanly in their habits. Chap. XXX. FACE OF THE COUNTRY. 625 As we did not come near human habitations, and could only take short stages on account of the illness of one of my men, I had an opportunity of observing the expedients my party resorted to in order to supply their wants. Large Avhite edible mush- rooms are found on the anthills, and are very good. The mokuri, a tuber which abounds in the Mopane country, they discovered by percussing the ground with stones ; and another tuber, about the size of a turnip, called bonga," is found in the same situations. It does not determine to the joints like the mokuri, and in ^vinter has a sensible amount of salt in it. A fruit called " ndongo " by the Makololo, dongolo " by the Bambiri, resembles in appearance a small plum, which becomes black when ripe, and is good food, as the seeds are small. Many trees are known by tradition, and one receives curious bits of information iq asking about different fruits that are met vdth. A tree named " shekabakadzi is superior to all others for making fire by friction. As its name implies, women may even readily make fire by it when benighted. The country here is covered over vdth well-rounded shingle and gravel of granite, gneiss, with much talc in it, mica schist, and other rocks which we saw in situ between the Kafue and Loangwa. There are great mounds of soft red sand slightly coherent, which crumble in the hand ^vith ease. The gTavel and the sand drain away the Avater so effectually, that the trees are exposed to the heat during a portion of the year, without any moisture ; hence they are not large, like those on the Zambesi, and are often scrubby. The rivers are all of the sandy kind, and we pass over large patches between this and Tete, in which, in the dry season, no water is to be found. Close on our south, the hills of Lokole rise to a considerable height, and beyond them flows the Mazoe with its golden sands. The great numbers of pot-holes on the sides of sandstone ridges, when viewed in connection with the large banks of rolled sliingle and washed sand which are met with on this side of the eastern ridge, may indicate that the sea in former times rolled its waves along its flanks. Many of the hills between the Kafue and Loangwa, have their sides of the form seen in mud banks left by the tide. The pot-holes appear most abundant on low grey sandstone ridges here ; and as the shingle is composed of the same rocks as the 2 s 626 PURSUED BY NATIVES. Chap. XXX. hills west of Zumbo, it looks as if a current had dashed along from the south-east in the line in which the pot-holes now appear, and if the current was deflected, by those hiUs, towards the Maravi country, north of Tete, it may have hollowed the rounded w^ater- wom caverns, in w^hich these people store their corn, and also hide themselves from their enemies. I could detect no terraces on the land, but, if I am right in my supposition, the form of this part of the continent must once have resembled the curves or indentations seen on the southern extremity of the American continent. In the indentation to the S.E., S., S. W., and W. of this, he the princij^al gold-washings ; and the line of the cun-ent, supposing it to have struck against the hills of Mburuma, shows the washings in the N. and N.E. of Tete. We were tolerably successful in avoiding the villages, and slept one night on the flanks of the hill Zimflia, where a great number of deep pot-holes afforded an abundant supply of good rain-water. Here, for the first time, we saw hills Avith bare, smooth, rocky tops, and we crossed over broad dykes of gneiss and syenitic porphyry : the directions in which they lay were N. and S. As we were now near to Tete, we were congi-atulating ourselves on having avoided those who w^ould only have plagued us ; but next morning some men saw us, and ran off to inform the neighboming villages of our passing. A party immediately pursued us, and, as they knew we were within caU of Katolosa (Monomotapa), they threat- ened to send information to that chief of our offence, in passing through the country without leave. We were obhged to give them two small tusks, for, had they told Katolosa of om- supposed offence, we should in all probability have lost the whole. We then went through a very rough stony country without any path. Bemg pretty weU thed out in the evening of the 2nd of March, I remained at about eight miles distance from Tete, Tette, or Nyungwe. My men asked me to go on ; I felt too fatigued to proceed, but sent forward to the Commandant the letters of recommendation Tvith which I had been favoured in Angola by the Bishop and others, and lay down to rest. Our food havmg been exliausted, my men had been subsisting for some time on roots and honey. About two o'clock in the morning of the 3rd we were aroused by two officers and a company of soldiers, who had been sent with the materials for a civihzed brealvfast and a Chap. XXX. ARKIVAL AT TETE. 627 "masheela" to bring me to Tete. (Commandant's house: lat. 16° 9' 3" S., long. 33° 28' E.) My companions thought that we were captured by the armed men, and called me in alarm. When I understood the errand on which they had come, and had partaken of a good breakfast, though I had just before been too tired to sleep, all my fatigue vanished. It was the most refreshing breakfast I ever partook of, and I walked the last eight miles without the least feehng of weari- ness, although the path was so rough that one of the officers remarked to me, " This is enough to tear a man's hfe out of liim." The pleasure experienced ia partaking of that breakfast was only equalled by the enjo}Tnent of Mr. Gabriel's bed on my aiTival at Loanda. It was also enhanced by the news that Sebastopol had fallen, and the war was finished. Note. — Having neglected, in referring to the footprints of tlie rhino- ceros, to mention what may be interesting to naturalists, I add it here in a note ; that wherever the footprints are seen, there are also marks of the animal having ploughed up the ground and hushes with his horn. This has been supposed to indicate that he is subject to *' fits of ungovernable rage ;" but when seen, he appears rather to be rejoicing in his strength. He acts as a bull sometimes does when he gores the earth with his horns. The rhinoceros, in addition to this, stands on a clump of bushes ; bends his back down, and scrapes the ground with his feet, throwing it out backwards, as if to stretch and clean his toes, in the same way that a dog may be seen to do on a little grass : this is certainly not rage. 2 s 2 628 GEKEPtOSITY OF THE COMMANDANT. Chap, XXXI. CHAPTEE XXXL Kind reception from tlie Commandant — His generosity to my men — The village of Tete — The population — Distilled spirits — The fort — Cause of the decadence of Portuguese power — Former trade — Slaves employed in gold- washing — Slave-trade drained the country of labourers — The rebel Nyaude's stockade — He burns Tete — Kisaka's revolt and ravages — Extensive field of sugar-cane — Tlie Commandant's good reputation among the natives — Providential guidance — Seams of coal — A hot spring — Picturesque country — Water-carriage to the coal-fields — Workmen's wages — Exports — Price of provisions — Visit gold-washings — The pro- cess of obtaining the precious metal — Coal within a gold-field — Present from Major Sicard — Natives raise wheat, &c. — Liberality of the Com- mandant — Geogi-aphical information from Senhor Candido — Earthquakes — Native ideas of a Supreme Being — Also of the immortality and trans- migration of souls — Fondness for display at funerals — Trade restrictions — Former Jesuit establishment — State of religion and education at Tete — Inundation of the Zambesi — Cotton cultivated — The fibrous plants conge and buaze — Detained by fever — The Kumbanzo bark — Native medicines — Iron, its quality — Hear of famine at Kilimane — Death of a Portuguese lady — The funeral — Disinterested kindness of the Portuguese. 1 WAS most kindly received by the Commandant Tito Augusto d'Araujo Sicard, who did everytliing in his power to restore me from my emaciated condition ; and as this was still the unhealthy period at Kilimane, he advised me to remain with him until the following month. He also generously presented my men with abundant provisions of millet ; and by giving them lodgings in a house of his own, until they could erect their own huts, he pre- served them from the bite of the tampans, here named Carapatos.* We had heard frightful accounts of this insect while among the • Another insect, resembling a maggot, burrows into the feet of the natives and sucks their blood. Mr. Westwood says, " The tampan is a large species of mite, closely allied to the poisonous bug (as it is called) of Persia, Argos reflexus, respecting which such marvellous accounts have been recorded, and which the statement respecting the carapato or tamj^an would partially confirm." Mr. W. also thinks that the poison- yielding larvse called N'gwa is a " species of chiyso- melidse. The larv£E of the British s^jecies of that family exude a fetid yellow thickish fluid when alarmed, but he has not heard that any of them are at all poisonous." Chap. XXXI. TETE : ITS POPULATION. 629 Banyai, and Major Sicard assured me that to strangers its bite is more especially dangerous, as it sometimes causes fatal fever. It may please our homoeopathic Mends to hear that, in curing the bite of the tampan, the natives administer one of the insects bruised in the medicine employed. The village of Tete is built on a long slope down to the river, the fort being close to the water. The rock beneath is grey sandstone, and has the appearance of being crushed away from tlie river : the strata' have thus a crumpled form. The hollow between each crease is a street, the houses being built upon tlie projecting fold. The rocks at the top of the slope are much liigher than the fort, and of course completely command it. There is then a large valley, and beyond that, an oblong hill called Karueira. The whole of the adjacent country is rocky and broken, but every available spot is under cultivation. The stone houses in Tete are cemented with mud instead of lime, and thatched vdth. reeds and grass. The rains, having washed out the mud between the stones, give all the houses a rough untidy appearance. Xo lime was known to be found, nearer than Mozambique; some used in making seats in the verandahs, had actually been brought all that distance. The Portuguese, evidently, knew nothing of the pink and white marbles, which I found at the Mbai, and another rivulet, named the Unguesi, near it, and of wliich I brought home specimens; nor yet of the dolomite which lies so near to Zumbo ; they might have burned the marble into lime without going so far as Mozam- bique. There are about tlm-ty European houses ; the rest are native, and of wattle and daub. A wall about ten feet high is intended to enclose the village, but most of the native inha- bitants prefer to Hve on different spots outside. There are about 1200 huts in aU, which with European households would give a population of about 4500 souls. Only a small propor- tion of these, hoAvever, Hve on the spot ; the majority are en- gaged in agricultural operations in the adjacent country. Gene- rally there are not more than 2000 people resident, for, compared with what it was, Tete is now a ruin. The number of Portu- g-uese is very small; if we exclude the military, it is under twenty. Lately, however, 105 soldiers were sent from Portugal to Senna, where in one year twenty-five were cut off by fever. 630 DECADENCE OF PORTUGUESE POWER. Chap. XXXI. They were then removed to Tete, and here they enjoy much better health, though, from the abundance of sph-its distilled from various plants, wild fruits, and grain, in which pernicious beverage they largely iadulge, besides partaking cliiefly of unwholesome native food, better health could scarcely have been expected. The natives here understand the method of distillation by means of gun-barrels, and a succession of earthen pots filled with water to keep them cool. The general report of the fever here is that, while at Kilimane the fever is continuous, at Tete a man re- covers in about three days. The mildest remedies only are used at first, and, if that period be passed, then the more severe. The fort of Tete has been the salvation of the Portuguese power in this quarter. It is a small square building, with a thatched apartment for the residence of the troops ; and though there are but few guns, they are iq a much better state than those of any fort in the interior of Angola. The cause of the decadence of the Portuguese power in this region is simply this. In former times considerable quantities of graiu, as wheat, millet, and maize, were exported, also coffee, sugar, oil, and indigo, besides gold- dust and ivory. The cultivation of grain was carried on by means of slaves, of whom the Portuguese possessed a large num- ber. The gold-dust was procured by wasliing at various points on the north, south, and west of Tete. A merchant took all his slaves with liim to the washings, carrying as much cahco and other goods as he could muster. On arriving at the washing- place he made a present to the chief, of the value of about a pound sterhng. The slaves were then divided into parties, each headed by a confidential servant, who not only had the supervision of liis squad while the washing went on, but bought dust from the inhabitants, and made a weekly return to his master. Wlien several masters united at one spot, it was called a " Bara," and they then erected a temporary church, in. which a priest from one of the missions performed mass. Both cliiefs and people were favourable to these visits, because the traders purchased gi-ain for the sustenance of the slaves with the goods they had brought. They continued at this labour until the whole of the goods were expended, and by tliis means about 130 lbs. of gold were annually produced. Probably more than this was actually ob- tained, but, as it was an article easily secreted, tliis alone was Chap. XXXI. TETE PLUNDERED AND BUEXT. 631 submitted to the antliorities for taxation. At present the whole amount of gold obtained annually by the Portuguese is from 8 to 10 lbs. only. When the slave-trade began, it seemed to many of the merchants a more speedy mode of becoming rich, to sell off the slaves, than to piu^sue the slow mode of gold-washing and agriculture, and they continued to export them, until they had neither hands to labom- nor to fight for them. It was just the story of the goose and the golden egg. The cofiee and sugar plantations and gold-Washings were abandoned, because the labour had been exported to the Brazils. Many of the Portuguese then followed their slaves, and the Government was obhged to pass a law to prevent fiui:her emigration, which, had it gone on, would have depopulated the Portuguese possessions altogether. A clever man of Asiatic (Goa) and Portuguese extraction, called Nyaude, now built a stockade at the confluence of the Luenya and Zambesi ; and when the Commandant of Tete sent an ofiicer ^ith his com- pany to smnmon him to liis presence, Nyaude asked permission of the ofiicer to dress himself, which being granted, he went into an inner apartment, and the ofiicer ordered his men to pile their arms. A drum of war began to beat a note wliich is well known to the inhabitants. Some of the soldiers took the alarm on hearing tliis note, but the officer, disregarding their warning, was, with his whole party, in a few minutes disarmed and bound hand and foot. The Commandant of Tete then armed the whole body of slaves and marched against the stockade of Nyaude, but when they came near to it, there was the Luenya still to cross. As they did not effect this speedily, Nyaude despatched a strong party under his son Bonga across the river below the stockade, and up the left banlv of the Zambesi imtil they came near to Tete. They then attacked Tete, which was totally imdefended save by a few soldiers in the fort, plundered and bmned the whole town except the house of the Commandant and a few others, with the chmch and fort. The women and children fled into the church, and it is a remarkable fact, that none of the natives of this region T\ill ever attack a church. Having rendered Tete a ruin, Bonga carried off all the cattle and plunder to his father. Xews of this having been brought to the army before the stockade, a sudden panic dis- persed the whole ; and as the fugitives took roundabout ways in their flight, Katolosa, who had liitherto pretended to be friendly 632 NYAUDE AND KISAKA. Chap. XXXI. with the Portuguese, sent out his men to capture as many of them as they could. They killed many for the sake of their arms. This is the account which both natives and Portuguese give of the affair. Another half-caste from Macao, called Kisaka or Choutama, on the opposite bank of the river, likewise rebelled. His father havuig died, he imagined that he had been bewitched by the Portuguese, and he therefore plundered and burnt all the planta- tions of the rich merchants of Tete on the north banl^. As I have before remarked, that bank is the most fertile, and there the Portuguese had their wallas and plantations to which they daily retired from Tete. When these were destroyed, the Tete people were completely impoverished. An attempt was made to punish tliis rebel, but it also was unsuccessful, and he has lately been pardoned by the home Government. One point iu the narrative of this expedition is interestmg. They came to a field of sugar- cane so large, that 4000 men eating it during two days did not finish the whole. The Portuguese were thus placed between two enemies, Nyaude on the right bank and Kisaka on the left, and not only so, but Nyaude, having placed his stockade on the poiut of land on the right banks of both the Luenya and Zambesi, and washed by both these rivers, could prevent intercourse with the sea. The Luenya rushes into the Zambesi with great force, when the latter is low, and in coming up the Zambesi boats must cross it and the Luenya separately, even going a Httle way up that river, so as not to be driven away by its current iii the bed of the Zambesi, and dashed on the rock which stands on the opposite shore. In comiug up to the Luenya for this purpose, all boats and canoes came close to the stockade to be robbed. Nyaude kept the Portuguese shut up ill their fort at Tete dm^iug two years, and they could only get goods sufficient to buy food, by sendiug to Kilimane by an over- land route along the north bank of the Zambesi. The mother country did not iu these " Caffre wars " pay the bills, so no one either became rich or blamed the missionaries. The merchants were unable to engage in trade ; and commerce, which the slave-trade had rendered stagnant, was now completely obstructed. The present Commandant of Tete, Major Sicard, having great iufluence among the natives from liis good character, put a stop to the war more than once by liis mere presence on Chap. XXXI. SEAMS OF COAL. 633 the spot. We heard of him among the Banyai as a man with whom they would never fight, because " he had a good heart." Had I come down to this coast instead of going to Loanda in 1853, I should have come among the belligerents while the war was still raging, and should probably have been cut off. My present approach was just at the conclusion of the peace ; and when the Portuguese authorities here were informed, tlu-ough the kind offices of Lord Clarendon and Count de Lavradio, that I was expected to come this way, they all declared that such was the existing state of affairs that no European could possibly pass through the tribes. Some natives at last came down the river to Tete and said, alluding to the sextant and artificial horizon, that " the Son of God had come," and that he was " able to take the sun do^\Ti from the heavens and place it mider his arm ! " Major Sicard then felt sure that this was the man mentioned in Lord Clarendon's despatch. On mentioning to the Commandant that I had discovered a small seam of coal, he stated that the Portuguese were already aware of nine such seams, and that five of them were on the opposite bank of the river. As soon as I had recovered from my fatigue I went to examine them. We proceeded in a boat to the mouth of the Lofubu or Kevubu, which is about two miles below Tete, and on the opposite or northern bank. Ascending this about four miles against a strong current of beautifully clear water, we landed near a small cataract, and walked about two miles tlu-ough very fertile gardens to the seam, which we found to be in one of the feeders of the Lofubu, called Muatize or Motize. The seam is in the perpendicular bank, and dips into the ri^'ulet, or in a northerly direction. There is first of all, a seam 10 inches in diameter, then some shale, below which there is another seam, 58 inches of which are seen, and, as the bottom touches the water of the Muatize, it may be more. This part of the seam is about 30 yards long. There is then a fault. About 100 yards higher up the stream, black vesicular trap is seen, penetrating in thin veins the clay shale of the country, converting it into porcellanite, and partially crystallizing the coal with which it came into contact. On the right bank of the Lo- fubu there is another feeder entering that river near its con- fluence with the Muatize, which is called the Morong6zi, in which 634 HOT SPRING. Chap. XXXI. there is another and still larger bed of coal exposed. Further up the Lofubu, there are other seams in the rivulets Inyavu and Makare ; also several spots in the Maravi country have the coal cropping out. Tliis has evidently been brought to the surface by volcanic action at a later period than the coal formation. I also went up the Zambesi and visited a hot spring called Nyamboronda, situated in the bed of a small rivulet named Nyaondo, which shows that igneous action is not yet extinct. We landed at a small rivulet called Mokorozi, then went a mile or two to the eastward, where we found a hot fountain at the bottom of a liigh hiU. A little spring bubbles up on one side of the rivulet Nyaondo, and a great quantity of acrid steam rises up fi'om the ground adjacent, about 12 feet square of which is so hot, that my companions could not stand on it ^dth their bare feet. There are several Httle holes from ^idch the water trickles, but the principal spring is in a hole a foot in diameter, and about the same in depth. Numbers of bubbles are constantly rising. The steam feels acrid in the throat, but is not inflammable, as it did not bum when I held a bimch of Hghted grass over the bubbles. The mercur}^ rises to 158° when the thermometer is put into the water in the hole, but after a few seconds it stands steadily at 160°. Even when flo^^g over the stones, the water is too hot for the hand. Little fish frequently leap out of the stream in the bed of which the fountain rises, into the hot water, and get scalded to death. We saw a frog which had performed that experiment, and was now cooked. The stones over which the water flows are encrusted with a white salt, and the water has a saline taste. The ground has been dug out near the fountain by the natives, in order to extract the salt it contains. It is situated among rocks of syenitic porphpy in broad dykes, and gneiss tilted on edge, and having a strike to the N.E. There are many specimens of half-formed pumice, with greenstone and lava. Some of the sandstone strata are dislocated by a hornblende rock and by basalt ; the sandstone nearest to the basalt being converted into quartz. The country around, as indeed all the district lying N. and N.W. of Tete, is hilly, and, the hiUs being covered with trees, the scenery is very picturesque. The soil of the valleys is very fruit- fid and weU cultivated. There would not be much difficulty in Cjiap. XXXI. WOROIEN'S WAGES. 635 working the coal. The Lofobu is about 60 yards broad ; it flows perennially, and at its very lowest period, which is after Sep- tember, there is water about 18 inches deep, which could be navigated in flat-bottomed boats. At the time of my visit it was full, and the current was very strong. If the small cataract referred to were to be avoided, the land-carriage beyond would only be about two miles. The other seams farther up the river may, after passing the cataract, be approached more easily than that in the Muatize ; as the seam, however, dips down into the stream, no drainage of the mine would be required, for if water were come to, it w^ould run into the stream. I did not ^isit the others, but I was informed that there are geams in the inde- pendent native territory, as well as in that of the Portuguese. That in the Kake, is in the Banyai country, and indeed I have no doubt but that the whole country between Zumbo and Lupata is a coalfield of at least 2^° of latitude in breadth, having many faults, made during the time of the igneous action. The grey sandstone rock having sihcified trees lying on it, is of these dimensions. The plantation in which the seam of coal exists, would be valued among the Portuguese at about 60 dollars or 12/., but much more would probably be asked if a wealthy purchaser appeared. They could not, however, raise the price very much higher, because estates containino^ coal mio^ht be had from the native o"wners at a much cheaper rate. The wages of free labourers, when employed in such work as gold-washing, agriculture, or digging coal, is 2 yards of unbleached caKco per day. They might be got to w^ork cheaper if engaged by the moon, or for about 16 yards per month. For masons and carpenters even, the ordinary rate is 2 yards per day. Tliis is called 1 braca. Tradesmen from Kili- mane demand 4 braqas, or 8 yards, per day. Enghsh or American mibleached calico is the only cm-rency used. The carriage of goods up the river to Tete, adds about 10 per cent, to their cost. The usual conveyance is by means of very large canoes and launches built at Senna. The amount of merchandise brought up dming the five months of peace previous to my visit, w^as of the value of 30,000 doUars, or about 6000/. The annual supply of goods for trade is about 1 5,000/.-, being cahco, thick brass-wire, beads, gunpowder, and guns. The quantity of the latter is, however, smaU, as the Government of 636 TEADE— PEICES. Chap. XXXI, Mozambique made that article contraband, after the commence- ment of the war. Goods, when traded with in the tribes around the Portuguese, produce a profit of only about 10 per cent, the articles traded in being ivory and gold-dust. A little oil and wheat are exported, but nothing else. Trade with the tribes beyond the exclusive ones is much better. Thirty brass rings cost 10s. at Senna, 11. at Tete, and 21. beyond the tribes in the vicinity of Tete ; these are a good price for a penful of gold-dust of the value of 21. The plantations of colfee, which, previous to the commencement of the slave-trade, yielded one material for exportation, are now deserted, and it is difficult to find a smgle tree. The indigo (Indigofera argentea, the common wild indigo of Africa) is found growing everywhere, and large quantities of the senna-plant * grow in the village of Tete and other parts ; but neither indigo nor senna is collected. Calumba-root, which is found in abundance in some parts further down the river, is bought by the Americans, it is said, to use as a dye-stuff. A kind of sarsaparilla, or a plant Avhich is behoved by the Portuguese to be such, is found from Londa to Senna, but has never been exported. The price of provisions is low, but very much higher than pre- vious to the commencement of the war. Two yards of caHco are demanded for six fowls ; this is considered very dear, because, before the war, the same quantity of caHco was worth 24 fowls. Grain is sold in Httle bags made from the leaves of the palmyra, like those in which we receive sugar. They are called panjas, and each panja weighs between 30 and 40 lbs. The panja of wheat at Tete is worth a dollar, or 5s. ; but the native grain ma^ be obtained among the islands below Lupata, at the rate of three panjas for two yards of cahco. The highest articles of consumption are tea and coffee — the tea being often as high as Ids. a pound. Food is cheaper down the river below Lupata, and, previous to the war, the islands which stud the Zambesi were aU inhabited, and, the soil being exceedingly fertile, grain and fowls could be got to any amount. The inhabitants disappeared before their enemies the Landeens, but are beginning to return since the peace. They have no cattle, the only place where we found no tsetse being the district of Tete itself; and the cattle in the possession of * These appear to belong to Cassia acutifoJia, or true senna of commerce, found in various parts of Africa and India. — Dr. Hooker. CnAP. XXXI. GOLD-WASHING. 637 the Portuguese are a mere remnant of what they formerly- owned. When visitmg the hot fountain, I examined what were formerly the gold-washings in the rivulet Mokoroze, which is nearly on the 16th parallel of latitude. The banks are covered with large groves of fine mango-trees, among which the Portuguese lived while super- intending the washing for the precious metal. The process of washing is very laborious and tedious. A quantity of sand is put into a wooden bowl with water ; a half rotatory motion is given to the dish, which causes' the coarser particles of sand to collect on one side of the bottom. These are carefully removed vdth the hand, and the process of rotation renewed until the whole of the sand is taken away, and the gold alone remains. It is found in xerj minute scales, and, unless I had been assured to the contrary, I should have taken it to be mica, for, knowing the gold to be of greater specific gravity than the sand, I imagined that a stream of water would remove the latter and leave the former ; but here the practice is, to remove the whole of the sand by the hand. This process was, no doubt, a profitable one to the Portuguese, and it is probable tliat, with the improved plan by means of mercury, the sands would be lucrative. I had an opportunity of examining the gold-dust from different parts to the east and north-east of Tete. There are six well-known washing-places. These are called Mashinga, Shindundo, Missala, Kapata, Mano, and Jawa. From the description of the rock I received, I suppose gold is found both in clay-shale and quartz. At the range Mushinga to the N.N.W. the rock is said to be so soft, that the women pound it into powder in wooden mortars previous to washing. Bound towards the westward, the old Portuguese indicate a station which was near to Zumbo on the river Panyame, and called Dambarari, near which much gold was found. Further west, lay the now unkno^vn kingdom of Abutua, which was formerly famous for the metal ; and then, coming round towards the east, we have the gold-washings of the Mashona, or Bazizulu, and further east, that of Mamca, where gold is found much more abundantly than in any other part, and which has been supposed by some to be the Ophir of King Solomon. I saw the gold from this quarter as large as grains of wheat; that found in the rivers which run into the coalfield, being in very minute scales. If we place one leg of the 638 PEACTICE WLTR FLAKE-GOLD. Chap. XXXI. compasses at Tete, and extend the other three and a half degrees, bringing it round from the north-east of Tete by west, and then to the south-east, we nearly touch or include all the kno^n gold-pro- ducing country. As the gold on this circumference is found in coarser grains than in the streams running towards the centre, or Tete, I imagine that the real gold-field Hes round about the coal- field ; and, if I am right in the conjecture, then we have coal encircled by a gold-field, and abundance of wood, water, and provi- sions— a combination not often met with in the world. The inha- bitants are not unfavourable to washings, conducted on the principle formerly mentioned. At present they wash only when in want of a Httle caKco. They know the value of gold perfectly well, for they brmg it for sale in goose-quills, and demand 24 yards of cahco for one penful. Wlien the rivers in the district of Manica and other gold-washing places have been flooded,, they leave a coating of mud on the banks. The natives observe the spots w^hich dry soonest, and commence digging there, in firm belief that gold lies beneath. They are said not to dig deeper than their chins, belie\ing that if they did so the ground would fall in and kiU them. AMien they find a piece or flake of gold, they bury it again, from the superstitious idea that this is the seed of the gold, and, though they know the value of it well, they prefer losing it rather than the whole future crop. This conduct seemed to me so very imlikely in men who biiag the dust in quiUs, and even put in a few seeds of a certain plant as a charm to prevent their losing any of it in the way, that I doubted the authority of my informant ; but I found the report verified by all the Portuguese who know the native language and mode of thinking, and give the statement for what it is worth. If it is really practised, the custom may have been introduced by some kno\^iQg one who Tvished to defraud the cliiefs of their due ; for we are informed in Portuguese history that in former times, these pieces or flakes of gold were considered the perquisites of the chiefe. Major Sicard, the Commandant, whose kindness to me and my people was unbounded, presented a rosary made of the gold of the country, the workmanship of a native of Tete, to my little daughter ; also specimens of the gold-dust of thi-ee different places, which, with the coal of MuatLze and Morongoze, are depo- sited in the Museum of Practical Geology, Jeiinyn-street, London. Chap. XXXI. LIBERALITY OF COMMANDANT. 639 All the cultivation is carried on with hoes in the native manner, and considerable quantities of Holcus sorgh um, maize, Pennisetum typhoideum, or lotsa of the Balonda, millet, rice, and wheat, are raised, as also several kinds of beans — one of which, called " Ktloo " by the Bechuanas, yields mider-ground, as well as the Araehis hypogoea, or ground-nut ; with cucumbers, pumpkins, and melons. The wheat is sown in low-lying places which are annually flooded by the Zambesi. When the waters retne, the women drop a few grains in a hole made with a hoe, then push back the soil with the foot. One weeding alone is i*equired before the grain comes to maturity. This simple process represents all our subsoil-ploughing, Hming, manuring, and harrowing, for in four months after planting, a good crop is ready for the sickle, and has been known to yield a hun- dred-fold. It flourished still more at Zumbo. No irrigation is required, because here there are gentle rains, almost like mist, in winter, which go by the name of " wheat-showers," and are mi- known in the interior, where no winter rain ever falls. The raiQS at Tete come from the east, though the prevailing winds come from the S.S.E. The finest portion of the flour does not make bread nearly so white as the seconds, and here the boyaloa (pombe), or native beer, is employed to mix with the flour instead of yeast. It makes excellent bread. At Kilimane, where the cocoa-nut palm abounds, the toddy from it, called " sm-a," is used for the same purpose, and makes the bread stiU Hghter. As it was necessary to leave most of my men at this place. Major Sicard gave them a portion of land on which to cultivate their own food, generously supplying them with com in the mean time. He also said that my young men might go and hunt elephants in company with his servants, and purchase goods with both the ivory and dried meat, in order that they might have sometliing to take with them on their retmn to Sekeletu. The men were delighted with liis Hberahty, and soon sixty or seventy of them set off to engage in tliis enterprise. There was no caUco to be had at this time in Tete, but the Commandant hand- somely furnished my men with clothing. I was in a state of want myself, and, though I pressed him to take payment in ivory for both myself and men, he refused all recompence. I shall ever remember his kindness with deep gratitude. He has written me, since my arrival in England, that my men lia,d 640 GEOGRAPHICAL INFOEMATION. Chap. XXXI. killed four elephants in the course of two months after my departure. On the day of my arrival I was visited by all the gentlemen of the ^dUage, both white and coloured, including the padre. Not one of them had any idea as to where the source of the Zambesi lay. They sent for the best travelled natives, but none of them knew the river even as far as Kansala. The father of one of the rebels who had been fighting against them, had been a great traveller to the south-west, and had even heard of our visit to Lake Ngami ; but he was equally ignorant with all the others that the Zambesi flowed in the centre of the country. They had, however, more knowledge of the country to the north of Tete than I had. One man, who had gone to Cazembe vdih Major Monteiro, stated that he had seen the LuajDiira or Loapula flo\^dng past the town of that chieftain into the Luameji or Leeambye, but imagined that it foimd its way, somehow or other, into An- gola. The fact that sometunes rivers were seen to flow like this towards the centre of the countr}^ led geographers to the supposi- tion that inner Africa was composed of elevated sandy plams, into which rivers ran and were lost. One of the gentlemen present, Senhor Candido, had visited a lake 45 days to the N.N.W. of Tete, wliich is probably the Lake Maravi of geographers, as in going thither they pass through the people of that name. The inhabitants of its southern coast are named Shiva ; those on the north, Mujao ; and they call the lake Nyanja or Nyanje, which simply means a large water, or bed of a large river. A liigh mountain stands in the middle of it, called IVIurombo or Murom- bola, which is inhabited by people who have much cattle. He stated that he crossed the Nyanja at a narrow part, and was 36 hours in the passage. The canoes were punted the whole way, and, if we take the rate about two miles per hour, it may be sixty or seventy miles ia breadth. The country all round was composed of level plains covered with grass, and, indeed, in going thither they travelled seven or eight days without w^ood, and cooked their food with grass and stalks of native corn alone. The people sold their cattle at a very cheap rate. From the southern ex- tremity of the lake, two rivers issue forth : one, named after itself, the Nyanja, which passes into the sea on the east coast under another name ; and the Sliire, which flows into the Zambesi, a CiiAP. XXXI. IDEAS OF A SUPREME BEING. 641 little below Senna. The Shire is named Sliirwa at its pomt of departure from the lake, and Senhor Candido was informed, when there, that the lake was simply an expansion of the river Nyanja, which comes from the north and encircles the mountain Mu- rombo, the meaning of which is junction or union, in reference to the water having parted at its northern extremity, and united again at its southern. The Shire flows through a Ioav, flat, marshy country, but abounding in population, and they are said to be brave. The Portuguese are unable to navigate the Sliire up to the lake Nyanja, because of the great abimdance of a water-plant which requires no soil, and wliich they name " alfacmya " (Pistia stratiotes), from its resemblance to a lettuce. This completely obstructs the progress of canoes. In confirmation of tliis I may state that, when I passed the mouth of the Sliire, great quantities of tliis same plant were floating from it into the Zambesi, and many parts of the banks below were covered with the dead plants. Senhor Candido stated that slight earthquakes have happened several times in the country of the Maravi, and at no gi-eat dis- tance from Tete. The motion seems to come from the eastward, and never to have lasted more than a few seconds. They are named in the Maravi tongue " shiwo," and in that of the people of Tete " shitakot^ko," or " shivering.'' This agrees exactly with what has taken place in the coast of Mozambique — a few slight shocks of short duration, and all appearing to come from the east. At Senna, too, a single shock has been felt several times, which shook the doors and windows and made the glasses jingle. Both Tete and Senna have hot springs in their vicinity, but the shocks seemed to come not from them, but fr'om the east and proceed to the west. They are probably connected with the active volcanoes in the island of Bourbon. As Senhor Candido holds the oflice of judge m all the disputes of the natives and knows their language perfectly, his statement may be relied on that all the natives of this region have a clear idea of a Supreme Being, the maker and governor of all tilings. He is named " Morimo," "Molungo," "Keza," "Mpambe," in the diflerent dialects spoken. The Barotse name him " Nyampi," and the Balonda " Zambi." All promptly acknowledge liim as the ruler over all. They also fully beHeve in the soul's continued existence apart from the body, and visit the gi'aves of relatives, 2 T 642 TKADE RESTEICTIONS. Chap. XXXI. making offerings of food, beer, &c When undergoing the ordeal, they hold up their hands to the Kuler of Heaven, as if appealing to him to assert their innocence. When they escape, or recover from sickness, or are deHvered from any danger, they offer a sacrifice of a fowl or a sheep, poming out the blood as a libation to the soul of some departed relative. They believe in the transmigration of souls ; and also that while persons are still living they may enter into Hons and alligators, and then retm-n again to their own bodies. While still at Tete the son of Monomotapa paid the Comman- dant a visit. He is named Mozungo, or " White Man," has a narrow tapering head, and probably none of the abihty or energy his father possessed. He was the favourite of his father, who hoped that he would occupy his place. A strong party, however, in the tribe placed Katalosa in the chieftainship, and the son became, as they say, a child of this man. The Portuguese have repeatedly received offers of territory if they would only attend the inter- ment of the departed cliief with troops, fire off many rounds of cartridges over the grave, and then give dclat to the instalment of the new cliief. Their presence would probably influence the election, for many would vote on the side of power, and a candi- date might feel it wortli while to grant a good piece of land, if thereby he could secm*e the chieftainship to himself. Wlien the Portuguese traders wish to pass into the country beyond Katalosa, they present him with about thirty-two yards of calico and some other goods, and he then gives them leave to pass in whatever direction they choose to go. They must, however, give certain quantities of cloth to a number of inferior chiefs beside, and they are subject to the game-laws. They have thus a body of ex- clusive tribes around them, preventing direct intercourse between them and the population beyond. It is strange that, when they had the power, they did not insist on the free na\'igation of the Zambesi. I can only account for tliis in the same way in which I accounted for a similar state of things in the west. All the traders have been in the hands of slaves, and have wanted that moral courage wliich a free man, with free servants on whom he can depend, usually possesses. If the English had been here, they would have insisted on the free navigation of tliis pathway as an inchspensable condition of friendship. The present system Chap. XXXI. FOR^^IER JESUIT ESTABLISHMENT. 643 is a serious difficulty in the way of developing the resources of the countr}^ and might prove fatal to an unarmed expedition. If this desirable and most fertile field of enterprise is ever to be opened up, men must proceed on a different plan from that which has been followed, and I do not apprehend there would be much difficulty in commencing a new system, if those who undertook it insisted that it is not our custom to pay for a high- way which has not been made by man. The natives themselves would not deny that the river is free to those who do not trade in slaves. If, in addition to an open frank explanation, a smaU subsidy were given to the paramount chief, the ^Nn'lh'rig consent of all the subordinates would soon be secured. On the 1st of April I went to see the site of a former establish- ment of the Jesuits, caUed Micombo, about ten miles S.E. of Tete. Like aU their settlements I have seen, both judgment and taste had been emj)loyed in the selection of the site. A httle stream of mineral water had been collected in a tank and conducted to their house, before which was a Httle garden for raising vegetables at times of the year when no rain falls. It is now buried in a deep shady grove of mango-trees. I was accompanied by Captain Xunes, whose great-grandfather, also a Captain in the time of the Marquis of Pombal, receiTed sealed orders, to be opened only on a certain day. WTien that day arrived, he found the command to go ^vith his company, seize aU the Jesuits of tliis establishment, and march them as prisoners to the coast. The riches of the fraternity, winch were immense, were taken pos- session of by the state. Large quantities of gold had often been sent to their superiors at Goa, enclosed in images. The Jesuits here do not seem to have possessed the sjTupathies of the people as their brethren in Angola did. They were keen traders ia ivory and gold-dust. All praise their iudustry. TVTiatever they did, they did it Avith aU their might, and probably their successful labours iu securing the chief part of the trade to themselves, had excited the envy of the laity. None of the natives here can read ; and though the Jesuits are said to have translated some of the prayers into the language of the country, I was unable to obtain a copy. The only rehgious teachers now in this part of the country are two gentlemen of colom-, natives of Goa. The one who officiates at Tete, named Pedro Antonio d'Araujo, is a 2 T 2 G44 INUNDATION OF THE ZAMBESI. Chap. XXXI. graduate in Dogmatic Theology and Moral Philosopliy. There is but a single school in Tete, and it is attended only by the native Portuguese children, who are taught to read and write. The black population is totally uncared for. The soldiers are marched every Sunday to hear mass, and but few others attend church. During the period of my stay, a Idnd of theatrical representation of our Saviour's passion and resurrection was performed. The images and other paraphernaHa used were of great value, but the present riches of the church are nothing to what it once possessed. The Commandant is obliged to lock up all the gold and silver in the fort for safety, though not from any apprehension of its beiug stolen by the people, for they have a dread of sacrilege. The state of rehgion and education is, I am sorry to say, as low as that of commerce ; but the European Portuguese value educa- tion liighly, and send their children to Goa and elsewhere for instruction in the higher branches. There is not a single book- seller's shop, however, in either eastern or western Africa. Even Loanda, with its 12,000 or 14,000 souls, cannot boast of one store for the sale of food for the mind. On the 2nd the Zambesi suddenly rose several feet in height. Three such floods are expected annually, but this year there were fom*. This last was accompanied by discoloration, and must have been caused by another great fall of rain east of the ridge. We had observed a flood of discoloured water when we reached the river at the Kafue ; it then fell two feet, and from subsequent raius agaiu rose so high, that we were obHged to leave it when opposite the hill Pinkwe. About the 10th of March the river rose several feet mth comparatively clear water, and it continued to rise untfl the 21st, with but a very sHght discolora- tion. This gradual rise was the greatest, and was probably caused by the water of inundation in the interior. The sudden rise which happened on the 2nd, being deeply discoloured, showed again the effect of raios at a comparatively short distance. The fact of the river risiug thi'ee or fom- times annually, and the one flood of inundation being mixed with the others, may account for tlie Portuguese not recognisiug the phenomenon of the periodical inundation, so weU known in the central country. The independent natives cultivate a little cotton, but it is not at all equal, either in quantity or quality, to wliat we found in Chap. XXXI. CONGE AND BUAZE. 645 Angola. The pile is short, and it clings to the seed so much that they use an iron roller to detach it. The soil, however, is equal to the production of any tropical plant or fruit. The natives have never been encouraged to cultivate cotton for sale, nor has any new variety been introduced. We saw no palm-oil trees, the oil which is occasionally exported being from the ground-nut. One of the merchants of Tete had a mill of the rudest construction for grinding tliis nut, which was di'iven by donkeys. It was the only specimen of a machine I could exliibit to my men. A very superior kind of salad-oil is obtained from the seeds of cucumbers, and is much used in native cookery. An offer, said to have been made by the ' Times,' having ex- cited attention even in this distant part, I asked the Commandant if he knew of any plant fit for the production of paper. He pro- cured specimens of the fibrous tissue of a species of aloe, named Congd, and some also from the root of a wild date, and, lastly, of a plant named Buaze, the fibres of wliich, though useless for the manufacture of paper, are probably a suitable substitute for flax. I submitted a small quantity of these fibres to Messrs. Pye, Brothers, of London, who have invented a superior mode for the preparation of such tissues for the manufacturer. They most poUtely under- took the examination, and have given a favourable opinion of the Buaze, as may be seen in the note below.* * 80, Lombard Street, 20th March, 1857. Dear Sir, — We Lave now the pleasure to return you the specimens of fibrous plants from the Zambesi river, on which you were desirous to see the effects of our treatment ; we therefore enclose you, No. 1. Buaze, in the state received from you. 1 A. Do. as prepared by us. 1 B. The tow which has come from it in hackling. No. 2. Conge, as received from you, 2 A. Do. as prepared by us. With regard to both these fibres, we must state that the veiy minute quantify of each specimen has prevented our subjecting them to anything like the full treatment of our process, and we can therefore only give you an approximate idea of their value. The Buaze evidently possesses a very strong and fine fibre, assimilating to flax in its character, but we believe, when treated in quantity by our process, it would show both a stronger and finer fibre than flax ; but being unable to apply the rolling or pressing processes with any efficiency to so very small a quantity, the gums are not yet so perfectly extracted as they would be, nor the fibre opened out to so fine a quality as it would then exhibit. q^j^^g 646 THE BUAZE. Chap. XXXI. A representation of the plant is given in the annexed woodcut, as a help to its identification. I was unable to procure either the flowers or fruit, but, as it is not recognised at sight by that accomplished botanist and eminent traveller, Dr. J. D. Hooker, it may safely be con- cluded that it is quite unknown to botanists. It is stated by the Portuguese to grow in large quantities in the Maravi country north of the Zambesi, but it is not cultivated, and the only known use it has been put to, is in making threads on which the natives string their beads. Elsewhere the spKt tendons of animals are employed for this purpose. This seems to be of equal strength, for a firm thread of The Burfze. it feels like catgut in the hand, and would rather cut the fingers than break. This is even yet more the case with the Cong<$, which, being naturally a harsh fibre, full of gums, wants exactly that powerful treatment which our process is calculated to give it, but which cannot be applied to such miniature specimens. We do not therefore consider this as more than half treated, its fibre consequently remaining yet harsh, and coarse, and stiff, as compared with what it would be if treated in quantity. Judging that it would be satisfactory to you to be in possession of the best practical opinion to be obtained on such a subject, we took the liberty of forwarding your little specimens to Messrs. Marshall, of Leeds, who have kindly favoured us with the following observations on them : — • " We have examined the samples you sent us yesterday, and think the Cong^ or aloe fibre would be of no use to us, but the Buaze fibre appears to resemble flax, and as prepared by you will be equal to flax worth 50Z. or 60?. per ton, but we could hardly speak positively to the value unless we had 1 cwt. or 2 cwt. to try on our machinery. However, we think the result is promising, and we hope further inquiry will be made as to the probable supply of the material." We are, dear Sir, Your very obedient servants, TJie Rev. Dr. Livingstone. Pye, Bbothers, CiiAP. XXXI. CIKCHONA BAEK. 647 Having waited a month for the commencement of the healthy- season at Kilimane, I would have started at the beginning of April, but tarried a few days in order that the moon might make her appearance, and enable me to take lunar obserrations on my way down the river. A sudden change of temperature happening on the 4th, simultaneously with the appearance of the new moon, the Commandant and myself, with nearly every person in the house, were laid up with a severe attack of fever. I soon re- covered by the use of my wonted remedies, but Major Sicard and his Httle boy were confined much longer. There was a general fall of 4° of temperature from the middle of March, 84° at 9 a.m. and 87° at 9 p.m. ; the greatest heat being 90° at mid-day, and the lowest 81° at sunrise. It afforded me pleasure to attend the invaHds in their sickness, though I was unable to show a tithe of the gratitude I felt for the Commandant's increasing kindness. My quinine and other remedies were nearly all expended, and no fresh supply was to be found here, there being no doctors at Tete, and only one apothecary with the ti'oops, whose stock of medicine was also small. The Portuguese, however, informed me that they had the cinchona bark growing in their country — that there was a Httle of it to be found at Tete — whole forests of it at Senna and near the delta of Kilimane. It seems quite a providential arrangement, that the remedy for fever should be found ia the greatest abundance where it is most needed. On seeiug the leaves, I stated that it was not the Ciiichona longifolia, from which it is supposed the quinine of commerce is extracted, but the name and properties of this bark made me imagine that it was a cuichonaceous tree. I could not get the flower, but when I went to Senna I tried to bring away a few small living trees with earth in a box. They, however, all died when we came to Kilimane. Failing in this mode of testing the point, I submitted a few leaves and seed-vessels to my friend, Dr. Hooker, who kindly informs me that they belong " apparently to an apocy- neous plant, very nearly alHed to the Malouetia Heudlotii (of Decaisne), a native of Senegambia." Dr. H. adds, " Various plants of this natural order are reputed powerful febrifuges, and some of them are said to equal the cinchona in their effects." It is called in the native tongue Kumbanzo. The flowers are reported to be wliite. The pods are in pahs, a 648 TPIE KUIVIBANZO. Chap. XXXI, The Kumbanzo leaves, pods, and seeds. foot or fifteen inclies in length, and contain a groove on their inner sides. The thick soft bark of the root is the part used by the natives, the Portuguese, use that of the tree itself. I imme- diately began to use a decoction of the bark of the root, and my men found it so efficacious, that they collected small quantities of it for themselves, and kept it in httle bags for future use. Some of them said that they knew it in their own country, but I never happened to observe it. The decoction is given after the fii'st paroxysm of the complamt is over. The Portuguese beheve it to have the same effects as the quinine, and it may prove a substi- tute for that invaluable medicine. There are numbers of other medicines in use among the na- tives, but I have ahvays been obKged to regTet want of tune to ascertain which were useful, and which of no value. We find a medicine in use by a tribe in one part of the country, and the Chap. XXXI. NATIVE MEDICINES. 649 same plant employed by a tribe a tliousand miles distant. Tliis surely must arise from some inherent virtue in the plant. The Boers under Potgeiter visited Delgoa Bay for the first time about ten years ago, in order to seciu-e a port on the east coast for their republic. TJiey had come from a part of the interior where the disease called croup occasionally prevails. There was no appearance of the disease amongst them at the period of their visit, but the Portuguese inliabitants of that bay found that they had left it among them, and several adults were cut olf by a form of the complaint called Laryngismus stridulus, the disease of which the great Washington died. Similar cases have occurred in the South Sea Islands. Ships have left diseases, from which no one on board was suffering at the time of then- visit. Many of the inliabitants here, were cut down, usually m tlu^ee days from their first attack, until a native doctor adopted the plan of scratching the root of the tongue freely with a certain root, and givhig a piece of it to be chewed. The cure may have been effected by the scarification only, but the Portuguese have the strongest faith in the virtues of the root, and always keep some of it witliin reach. There are also other plants which the natives use in the treat- ment of fever, and some of them produce diaphoresis in a short space of time. It is certain that we have got the knowledge of the most potent febrifuge in our pharmacopoeia from the natives of another country. We have no cure for cholera and some other diseases. It might be worth the investigation of those who visit Africa to try and find other remedies m a somewhat similar way to that in which we found the quinine.* * I add the native names of a few of their remedies in oi'der to assist the inquirer : — Mupanda panda : this is used in fever for producing perspiration ; the leaves are named Chirussa ; the roots dye red and are very astringent. Goho or Goo : this is the ordeal medicine ; it is both purgative and emetic. Mutuva or Mutumbue : this plant contains so much oil that it serves as lights in Londa ; it is an emollient drink for the cure of coughs, and the pounded leaves answer as soap to wash the head. Nyamucu ucu has a curious soften- ing effect on old dry grain. Mussakasi is believed to remove the effects of the Goo. Mudama is a stringent vermifuge. Mapubuza dyes a red colour. Musikizi yields an oil. Shinkondo : a virulent poison ; the Maravi use it in their ordeal, and it is very fatal. Kanunka utare is said to expel serpents and rats by its pungent smell, which is not at all disagreeable to man ; this is probably a kind of Zanthoxylon, perhaps the Z. melancantha of Western 650 AFEICAN IRON. Chap. XXXI. The only other metal, besides gold, we have in abundance in this region, is iron, and that is of excellent quality. In some places it is obtained from what is called the specular iron ore, and also from black oxide. The latter has been well roasted in the operations of nature, and contains a large proportion of the metal It occurs generally in tears or rounded lumps, and is but slightly magnetic. When found in the beds of rivers, the natives know of its existence by the quantity of oxide on the surface, and they find no difficulty in digging it with pointed sticks. They consider English iron as " rotten ;" and I have seen, when a javelin of their ovm. iron Hghted on the cranium of a hippopota- mus, it curled up like" the proboscis of a butterfly, and the owner would prepare it for future use by straightening it cold with two stones. I brought home some of the hoes which Seke- letu gave me to purchase a canoe, also some others obtained in Kilimane, and they have been found of such good quality that Africa, as it is used to expel rats and serpents there. Miissonzoa dyes cloth black. Mussio : the beans of this also dye black. Kangome, with flowers and fruit like Mocha coffee ; the leaves are much like those of the sloe, and the seeds are used as coffee or eaten as beans. Kanembe-embe : the pounded leaves used as an extemporaneous glue for mending broken vessels. Katunguru is used for killing fish. Mutavea Nyerere : an active caustic. Mudiacoro : also an external caustic, and used internally. Kapande : another ordeal plant, but used to produce diaphoresis. Karumgasura : also diaphoretic. Munyazi yields an oil, and is one of the ingredients for curing the wounds of poisoned an-ows. Uombue : a large root, employed in killing fish. Kakumate : used in inter- mittents. Musheteko : applied to ulcers ; and the infusion also internally in amenorrhoea. Inyakanyanya : this is seen in small dark-coloured crooked roots of pleasant aromatic smell and slightly bitter taste, and is highly extolled in the treatment of fever ; it is found in Manica. Eskinencia : used in croup and sore-throat. Itaca, or Itaka : for diaphoresis in fever ; this root is brought as an article of barter by the Arabs to Kilimane ; the natives purchase it eagerly. Mukundukundu : a decoction used as a febrifuge in the same way as quinine ; it grows plentifully at Shupanga, and the wood is used as masts for launches. I may here add the recipe of Brother Pedro of Zumbo for the cure of poisoned wounds, in order to show the similarity of practice among the natives of the Zambesi, from whom in all probabiUty he acquired his know- ledge, and the Bushmen of the Kalahari. It consists of equal parts of the roots of the Calumba, Musheteko, Abutua, Batatinya, Paregekanto, Itaka, or Kapande, put into a bottle and covered with common castor-oil. As I have before observed, I believe the oily ingredient is the effectual one, and ought to be tried by any one who has the misfortune to get wounded by a Bushman's or Banyai arrow. Chap. XXXI. AFRICAN IRON. 651 a friend of mine in Birmingham lias made an Enfield rifle of them.* The iron ore exists in great abmidance, but I did not find any limestone in its immediate vicinity. So far as I could learn, there is neither copper nor silver. Malachite is worked by the people of Cazembe, but, as I did not see it, nor any other metal, I can say nothing about it. A few precious stones are met Avith, and some parts are quite covered with agates. The mineralogy of the district, however, has not been explored by any one competent to the task. When my friend the Commandant was fairly recovered, and I myself felt strong again, I prepared to descend the Zambesi. A number of my men were out elephant-hunting, and others had estabhshed a brisk trade in firewood, as their countrymen did at Loanda. I chose sixteen of those who could manage canoes to * The following remarks are by a practical blacksmith, one of the most experienced men in the gun trade. In this trade various qualities of iron are used, and close attention is required to secure for each purpose the quality of iron peculiarly adapted to it : — The iron in the two spades strongly resembles Swedish or Russian ; it is highly carbonised. The same qualities are found in both spades. Wlien chilled in water it has all the properties of steel : see the piece marked I, chilled at one end, and left soft at the other. When worked hot it is very malleable ; but cold, it breaks quite short and brittle. The great irregularity found in the working of the iron, affords evidence that it has been prepared by inexperienced hands. This is shown in the bending of the small spade ; the thick portion retains its crystallised nature, while the thin part has been changed by the hammer- ing it has undergone. The large spade shows a very brittle fracture. The iron is too brittle for gun- work ; it would be liable to break. This iron, if repeatedly heated and hammered, would become decarbonised, and would then possess the qualities found in the spear-head, which, after being curled up by being struck against a hard substance, was restored by hammering to its original form without injury. The piece of iron marked II is a piece of gun-iron of fibrous quality, such as will bend without breaking. The piece marked III is of crystalline quality ; it has been submitted to a process which has changed it to IIII ; III and IIII are cut from the same bar. The spade-iron has been submitted to the same process, but no corresponding effect can be produced. 652 DEATH AND FUNERAL OF A LADY. Chap. XXXI. convey me down tlie river. Many more would Lave come, but we were informed that there had been a failm-e of the crops at lOimane from the rains not coming at the proper time, and thousands had died of hmiger. I did not hear of a smgle effort having been made to relieve the famisliing by sending them food doA\Ti the river. Those who perished were mostly slaves, and others seemed to tliink that their masters ought to pay for their rehef. The sufferers were cliiefly among those natives who inhabit the delta, and who are subject to the Portuguese. They are in a state of slavery, but are kept on farms and mildly treated. Many yield a certain rental of grain only to their owners, and are otherwise free. Eight thousand are said to have perished. Major Sicard lent me a boat which had been built on the river, and sent also Lieutenant Miranda to conduct me to the coast. A Portuguese lady who had come with her brother from Lisbon, ha^^ng been suffering for some days from a severe attack of fever, died about 3 o'clock in the morning of the 20th of April. The heat of the body having continued unabated till 6 o'clock, I was called in, and found her bosom quite as warm as I ever did in a Hving case of fever. Tliis continued for tln-ee hours more. As I had never seen a case in wliich fever- heat continued so long after death, I delayed the fimeral until unmistakeable symptoms of dissolution occurred. She was a widow, only twenty-two years of age, and had been ten years in Africa. I attended the fimeral in the evening, and was struck by the custom of the country. A number of slaves preceded us, and fired off many rounds of gunpowder in front of the body. When a person of much popularity is buried, aU the surrounding chiefs send deputations to fii'e over the grave. On one occasion at Tete, more than tliii*ty barrels of gunjDowder were expended. Early in the morning of the 21st the slaves of the deceased lady's brother went round the village makmg a lamentation, and drums were beaten aU day, as they are at such times among the heathen. The Commandant pro^dded for the joiu-ney most abundantly, and gave orders to Lieutenant Miranda that I should not be allowed to pay for anytliing all the way to the coast, and sent messages to liis friends Senliors Ferrao, Isidore, Asevedo, and Chap. XXXI. KINDNESS OF PORTUGUESE. 653 Xunes, to treat me as they would himself. From every one of these gentlemen I am happy to acknowledge that I received most tUsinterested kindness, and I ought to speak well for ever of Portuguese hospitaHt}^. I have noted each Kttle act of civility received, because somehow or other we have come to hold the Portuguese character in rather a low estimation. This may have arisen partly fi-om the pertinacity with which some of them have pursued the slave-trade, and partly from the contrast which they now offer to their illustrious ancestors — the foremost navigators uf the world. If my specification of their kindnesses will tend to engender a more respectful feeUng to the nation, I shall consider myself well rewarded. We had three large canoes in the com- pany wliich had lately come up with goods from Senna. They are made very large and strong, much larger than any we ever saw in the iQterior, and might strike mtli great force against a rock and not be broken. The men sit at the stern when paddhng, and there is usually a Httle shed made over a part of the canoe to shade the passengers from the sun. The boat in which I went was furnished mth such a coveruig, so I sat quite comfortably. 654 THE KEBEL BONGA. Chap. XXXII. CHAPTEE XXXIL Leave Tete and proceed down the river — Pass the stockade of Bonga — Gorge of Lupata — " Spine of the world " — Width of river — Islands — War drum at Shiramba — Canoe navigation — Reach Senna — Its ruinous state — Landeens levy fines upon the inhabitants — Cowardice of native militia — State of the revenue — No direct trade with Portugal — At- tempts to revive the trade of Eastern Africa — Country round Senna — Gorongozo, a Jesuit station — Manica, the best gold region in Eastern Africa — Boatbuilding at Senna — Our departure — Capture of a rebel stockade — Plants Alfacinya and Njefu at the confluence of the Shire — Landeen opinion of the whites — Mazaro, the point reached by Captain Parker — His opinion respecting the navigation of the river from this to the ocean — Lieut. Hoskins' remarks on the same subject — Fever, its effects — Kindly received into the house of Colonel Nunes at Kilimane — Forethought of Captain Nolloth and Dr. Walsh — Joy embittered — Deep obligations to the Earl of Clarendon, &c. — On developing resources of the interior — Desirableness of Missionary Societies selecting healthy stations — Arrangements on leaving my men — Eetrospect — Probable influence of the discoveries on slavery — Supply of cotton, sugar, &c., by free labour ' — Commercial stations — Development of the resources of Africa a work of time — Site of Kilimane — Unhealthiness — Death of a shipwrecked crew from fever — The Captain saved by quinine — Arrival of H. M. brig *' Frolic" — Anxiety of one of my men to go to England — Rough passage in the boats to the ship — Sekwebu's alarm — Sail for Mauritius — Sekwebu on board ; he becomes insane ; drowns himself — Kindness of Major-General C. M. Hay — Escape shipwreck — Reach home. We left Tete at noon on the 22nd, and in the afternoon arrived at the garden of Senhor A. Manoel de Gomes, son-in-law and nephew of Bonga. The Commandant of Tete had sent a letter to the rebel Bonga, stating that he ought to treat me kindly, and he had deputed liis son-in-law to be my host. Bonga is not at all equal to his father Nyaude, who was a man of great abihty. He is also in bad odom- with the Portuguese, because he receives aU runaway slaves and criminals. He does not trust the Portuguese, and is reported to be excessively superstitious. I found his son- in-law, Manoel, extremely friendly, and able to converse in a very intelhgent manner. He was in liis garden when we arrived, but soon dressed liimself respectably, and gave us a good tea and dinner. Chap. XXXII. GORGE AND RANGE OF LUPATA. 655 After a breakfast of tea, roasted eggs, and biscuits next morning, he presented six fowls and three goats as provTsions for the journey. When we parted from him we passed the stockade of Bonga at the confluence of the Luenya, but did not go near it, as he is said to be very suspicious. The Portuguese advised me not to take any observation, as the instruments might awaken fears in Bonga's mind, but Manoel said I might do so if I wished ; his garden, however, being above the confluence, could not avail as a geo- graphical point. There are some good houses in the stockade. The trees of which it' is composed, seemed to me to be Kving and could not be burned It was strange to see a stockade menacing the whole commerce of the river in a situation where the guns of a vessel woidd have foil play on it, but it is a formidable affair for those who have only muskets. On one occasion, when Xyaude was attacked by Kisaka, they fought for weeks; and though Nyaude was reduced to cutting up his copper anklets for balls, his enemies were not able to enter the stockade. On the 24th we sailed only about three hours, as we had done the day before ; but having come to a small island at the western entrance of the gorge of Lupata, where Dr. Lacerda is said to have taken an astronomical observation, and called it the island of Mo- zambique, because it was beheved to be in the same latitude, or 15° 1', I wished to verify his position and remained over night ; my informants must have been mistaken, for I found the island of Mozambique here to be, lat. 16° 34' 46" S., long. 33° 51' E. Respecting this range, to which the gorge has given a name, some Portuguese ^Titers have stated it to be so high that snow Kes on it during the whole year, and that it is composed of marble. It is not so liigh in appearance as the Campsie HiUs when seen from the Yale of Clyde. The western side is the most abrupt, and gives the idea of the greatest height, as it rises up perpendicularly from the water six or seven hundred feet. As seen from this httle island, it is certainly no higher than Arthur's Seat appears from Prince's-street, Edinburgh. The rock is com- pact sihceous schist of a shghtly reddish colour, and in thin strata ; the island on which we slept, looks as if torn off from the opposite side of the gorge, for the strata are twisted and torn in every direction. The eastern side of the range is much more sloping than the western, covered with trees, and G56 THE RIVER AND ISLANDS. Chap. XXXII. does not give tlie idea of altitude so much as the western. It extends a considerable way into the Maganja country in the north, and then bends round towards the river again, and ends in the lofty mountain Morumbala, opposite Senna. On the other or southern side it is straighter, but is said to end in Gorongozo, a mountain west of the same point. The person who called this Lupata " the spine of the world," evidently did not mean to say that it was a translation of the word, for it means a defile or gorge having perpendicular walls. This range does not deserve the name of either Cordillera or Spine, unless we are willing to beheve that the world has a very small, and very crooked " back-bone." We passed through the gorge in two hours, and found it rather tortuous, and between 200 and 300 yards wide. The river is said to be here always excessively deep ; it seemed to me that a steamer could pass tln-ough it at full speed. At the eastern entrance of Lupata stand two conical liills ; they are composed of porphyry, having large square crystals therem. These hills are called Moenda en Goma, winch means a footprint of a wild beast. Another conical liill on the opposite bank is named Kasisi (priest), from having a bald top. We sailed on quickly with the current of the river, and found that it spread out to more than two miles in breadth : it is, however, full of islands, which are generally covered with reeds, and wliich, previous to the war, were inliabited, and yielded vast quantities of gi-ain. We usually landed to cook brealdast, and then went on quickly. The breadth of water between the islands was now quite sufficient for a sailing-vessel to tack, and work her sails in; the prevailing winds would blow her up the stream ; but I regretted that I had not come when the river was at its lowest rather than at its highest. The testimony, however, of Captain Parker and Lieutenant Hoskins, hereafter to be noticed, may be considered conclusive as to the capabilities of tliis river for commercial purposes. The Portu- guese state that there is high water during five months of the year, and when it is low there is always a channel of deep water. But this is very winding; and as the river wears away some of the islands and forms others, the course of the channel is often altered. I suppose that an accurate chart of it made m one year would not be very reliable the next ; but I believe, from all that I can learn, that the river could be navigated Chap. XXXn. WAE-DRmi AT SHIRAMBA. 657 in a small flat-bottomed steamer during the whole year as far as Tete. At tliis time, a steamer of large size could have floated easily. The river was measured at the latter place by the Portuguese, and found by them to be 1050 yards broad. The body of water flo^\dng past when I was there was very gi*eat, and the breadth it occupied w^hen amongst the islands, had a most imposing effect. I could not get a glimpse of either shore. AU the right bank beyond Lupata is low and flat : on the north, the ranges of hills and dark lines below them are seen, but from the boat it is impossible to see the shore. I only guess the breadth of the river to be two miles, it is probably more. Next day we landed at Shiramba for breakfast, having sailed 8t hours from Lupata. This was once the residence of a Portuguese brigadier, who spent large sums of money in embellisliing liis house and gardens : these we found in entire ruin, as liis half-caste son had destroyed all and then rebelled against the Portuguese, but with less success than either Nyaude or Kisaka, for he had been seized and sent a prisoner to Mozambique a short time before our ^-isit. All the southern shore has been ravaged by the Cafires, who are here named Landeens, and most of the inhabitants who remain, acknowledge the authority of Bonga and not of the Portuguese. When at breakfast, the people of Shiramba commenced beatiag the drum of war. Lieutenant Miranda, who was well acquainted with the customs of the country, immediately started to his feet, and got all the soldiers of our party under arms: he then demanded of the natives why the drum was beaten while we were there. They gave an evasive reply; and as they employ tliis means of collectiag their neighbours when they intend to rob canoes, om* watchfulness .may have prevented their proceeding further. We spent the night of the 26th on the island called Nkuesi, opposite a remarkable saddle-shaped mountain, and found that we were just on the 17th parallel of latitude. The sail do™ the river was very fine ; the temperature becoming low, it was pleasant to the feehngs ; but the shores being flat and far from us, the scenery was urdnterestiiig. We breakfasted on the 27th at Pita, and found some half-caste Portuguese had established themselves there, after fleeiag from the opposite bank to escape Kisaka's people, who were now ravaging all the Maganja coimtry. On the ' 2 u 658 SENNA : ITS RUINOUS STATE. Chap. XXXH. afternoon of the 27th we anived at Senna. (Commandant Isi- dore's house, 300 yards S.W. of the mud fort on the banks of the river : lat. 17° 27' 1" S., long. 35° 10' E.) We found Senna to be twenty-tliree and a half hours' sail from Tete. We had the cmTent entirely in our favour, but met various pai^ties m large canoes toiling laboriously against it. They use long ropes and pull the boats from the shore. They usually take about twenty days to ascend the distance we had descended in about fom*. The wages paid to boatmen are considered liigh. Paii of the men who had accompanied me, gladly accepted employment from Lieutenant Miranda, to take a load of goods in a canoe from Senna to Tete. I thought the state of Tete quite lamentable, but that of Senna was ten times worse. At Tete there is some life ; here everything is in a state of stagnation and ruin. The fort, built of sun-dried bricks, has the grass growing over the walls, which have been patched in some places by paling. The Landeens visit the village periodically, and levy fines upon the inliabitants, as they consider the Portuguese a conquered tribe, and very rarely does a native come to trade. Senlior Isidore, the Com- mandant, a man of considerable energy, had proposed to surround the whole village with palisades as a protection against the Landeens, and the villagers were to begin this work the day after I left. It was sad to look at the iTiui manifest in every building, but the half-castes appear to be in league with the rebels and Landeens ; for when any attempt is made by the Portuguese to coerce the enemy or defend themselves, information is conveyed at once to the Landeen camp, and, though the Commandant proliibits the payment of tribute to the Landeens,. on their approach the half- castes eagerly ransom themselves. When I was there, a party of Kisaka's people were ravaging the fine countiy on the opposite shore. They came down with the prisoners they had captm-ed, and forthwith the half-castes of Senna went over to buy slaves. Encouraged by this, Kisaka's people came over into Semia fully armed and beating their drums, and were received into the house of a native Portuguese. They had the village at their mercy, yet could have been driven off by half a dozen pohcemen. The Commandant could only look on with bitter son'ow. He had soldiers, it is true, but it is notorious that the native mihtia of Chap. XXXH. AITEMPTS TO REVIVE TRADE. 659 both Senna and Kilimane never think of standing to fight, but invariably run away, and leave their officers to be killed. They are brave only among the peaceable inhabitants. One of them sent from Kilimane with a packet of letters or expresses, arrived while I was at Senna. He had been charged to deliver them with all speed, but Senhor Isidore had in the mean time gone to Kilimane, remained there a fortnight, and reached Senna again before the courier came. He could not pmiish liim. We gave him a passage in om- boat, but he left us in the way to visit his wife, and, " on urgent private business," probably gave up the service altogether, as he did not come to Kilimane all the time I was there. It is impossible to describe the miserable state of decay into which the PortugTiese possessions here have sunk. The revenues are not equal to the expenses, and every officer I met told the same tale, that he had not received one farthing of pay for the last fom- years. They are all forced to engage in trade for the support of their famihes. Senlior Miranda had been actually engaged against the enemy dm-ing these four years, and had been higlily lauded in the Commandant's des- patches to the Home Government ; but when he apphed to the Oovemor of Kilimane for part of liis four years' pay, he offered him twenty doUars only. Miranda resigned his commission in consequence. The common soldiers sent out from Portugal re- ceived some pay in cahco. They all many native women, and the soil being very fertile, the wives find but Httle difficulty m supporting their husbands. There is no direct trade with Por- tugal. A considerable number of Banians, or natives of India, come annually in small vessels with cai'goes of Enghsh and Indian goods from Bombay. It is not to be wondered at then, that there liave been attempts made of late years by speculative Portuguese in Lisbon, to revive the trade of Eastern Africa by means of mercantile companies. One was formally proposed, wliicli was modelled on the plan of our East India Company ; and it was actually imagined that aU the forts, harbom-s, lands, &c., might be delivered over to a company, wliich would buid itself to develop the resom'ces of the coimtiy, build schools, make roads, improve harbom-s, &c., and after all leave the PortugTiese the option of resuming possession. Another effort has been made to attract commercial enterprise 2 u 2 660 COUNTRY ROUND SENNA. Chap. XXXn. to this region, by offering any mining company permission to search for the ores and work them. Such a company, however, would gain but little in the way of protection or aid from the government of Mozambique, as that can but barely maintain a hold on its own small possessions ; the condition affixed of importing at the company's own cost a certain number of Portuguese from the island of Madeira or the Azores, in order to increase the Portuguese population in Africa, is impolitic. Taxes would also be levied on the minerals exported. It is noticeable that all the companies which have been proposed in Portugal have this put prominently in the preamble, and for the abolition of the inhuman slave-trade." . This shows, either that the statesmen in Portugal are enlightened and phi- lanthropic, or it may be meant as a trap for English capitalists ; I incline to believe the former. If the Portuguese really wish to develop the resources of the rich country beyond their pos- sessions, they ought to invite the co-operation of other nations on equal terms with themselves. Let the pathway into the interior be free to all ; and, instead of wretched forts, with scarcely an acre of land around them which can be called their own, let real colonies be made. If, instead of military establish^ ments, we had civil ones, and saw emigi-ants going out with their wives, ploughs, and seeds, rather than military convicts with bugles and kettle-drums, we might hope for a return of prospe- rity to Eastern Africa. The village of Senna stands on the right banli of the Zambesi. There are many reedy islands in front of it, and there is much bush in the country adjacent. The soil is fertile ; but the village, being in a state of ruin, and having several pools of stagnant water, is very unhealthy. The bottom rock is the akose of Brongniart, or granitic grit, and several conical hills of trap have burst through it. One standing about half a mile west of the village is called Baramuana, wliich has another behind it ; hence the name, which means carry a cliild on the back." It is 300 or 400 feet high, and on the top lie two dismounted cannon, which were used to frighten away the Landeens, who in one attack upon Senna kiUed 150 of the inhabitants. The prospect from Baramuana is very fine ; below, on the eastward, lies the Zambesi, with the village of Senna ; and some twenty or thirty CiiAP. XXXII. JESUIT STATION. 661 miles beyond stands the lofty mountain Morumbala, probably 3000 or 4000 feet high. It is of an oblong sliape, and from its physiognomy, whicli can be distinctly seen when the sun is in the west, is evidently igneous. On the northern end there is a hot sulphurous fountain, whicli my Portuguese friends refused to allow me to visit, because the mountain is well peopled, and the mountaineers are at present not friendly with the Portu- guese. They have plenty of garden-ground and running water on its summit. My friends at Senna declined the responsibility of taking me into danger. To the north of Morumbala we have a fine view of the mountains of the Maganja ; they here come close to the river and terminate in Morumbala. Many of them are conical, and the Shire is re2:)orted to flow amongst them, and to run on the Senna side of Morumbala, before joining the Zambesi. On seeing the confluence afterwards, close to a low range of hills beyond Morumbala, I felt inclined to doubt the report, as the Shire must then flow parallel ^-ith the Zambesi, from which Morumbala seems distant only twenty or thirty miles. All around to the south-east, the country is flat, and covered with forest, but near Senna a number of little abrupt conical hills diversify the scenery. To the west and north the country is also flat forest, which gives it a sombre appearance ; but just in the haze of the horizon south-west by south, there rises a mountain range equal in lieiglit to Morumbala, and called Nya- monga. In a clear day, another range beyond this may be seen, which is Gorongozo, once a station of the Jesuits. Gorongozo is famed for its clear cold waters and healthiness, and there are some inscriptions engraved on large square slabs on the top of the mountain, which have probably b3en the work of the fathers. As this lies in the direction of a district between Manica and Sofala, which has been conjectured to be the Ophir of Eang Solo- mon, the idea that first sprang up in my mind was, that these monuments might be more ancient than the Portuguese ; but on questioning some persons who had seen them, I found that they were in Eoman characters, and did not deserve a journey of six days to see them. Manica lies three days north-west of Gorongozo, and is the best gold country known in Eastern Africa. The only evidence the Portuguese have of its being the ancient Ophir, is, that at 662 BOAT-BUILDINa. Chap. XXXH. Sofala, its nearest port, pieces of wrought gold have been dug up near th^ fort, and in the gardens. They also report the existence of hewn stones in the neighbourhood, but these cannot have been abundant, for all the stones of the fort of Sofala are said to have been brought from Portugal. Natives whom I met in the country of Sekeletu, from Manica, or Manoa, as they call it, state that there are several caves in the country, and walls of hewn stone, which they believe to have been made by their ances- tors ; and there is, according to the Portuguese, a small tribe of Arabs there, who have become completely like the other natives. Tavo rivers, the Motirikwe and Sabia, or Sabe, run through their country into the sea. The Portuguese were driven out of the country by the Landeens, but now talk of re-occupying Manica. The most pleasant sight I witnessed at Senna was the negroes of Senhor Isidore building boats, after the European model, with- out any one to superintend their operations. They had been in- structed by a European master, but now go into the forest and cut down the motondo-trees, lay down the keel, iit in the ribs, and make very neat boats and launches, valued at from 201. to 100?. Senhor Isidore had some of them instructed also in car- pentry at Kio Janeiro, and they constructed for him the hand- somest house in Kilimane, the woodwork being all of country trees, some of which are capable of a fine polish, and very durable. A medical opinion having been asked by the Com- mandant respecting a better site for the village, which, lying on the low bank of the Zambesi, is very unhealthy, I recommended imitation of the Jesuits, who had chosen the high healthy mountain of Gorongozo, and to select a new site on Morumbala, which is perfectly healthy, well watered, and where the Shire is deep enough for the purpose of navigation at its base. As the next resource, I proposed removal to the harbour of Mitilone, which is at one of the mouths of the Zambesi, a much better port than Kilimane, and where, if they must have the fever, they would be in the way of doing more good to themselves and the country than they can do in their present situation. Had the Portuguese possessed this territory as a real colony, this important point would not have been left unoccupied ; as it is, there is not even a native village placed at the entrance of this splendid river to show the way in. Chap. XXXU. CAPTUEE OF A KEBEL STOCKADE. 663 On the 0th of May sixteen of my men were employed to carry government goods in canoes up to Tete. They were much pleased at getting this work. On the 11th the whole of the inhabitants of Senna, with the Commandant, accompanied us to the boats. A venerable old man, son of a judge, said they were in much sorrow on account of the miserable state of decay into which they had sunk, and of the insolent conduct of the people of Kisaka, now in the village. We were abundantly supplied with provisions by the Commandant and Senhor Ferrao, and sailed pleasantly down the broad river. About thirty miles below Senna, we passed the mouth of the river Zangwe on our right, which farther up goes by the name of Pungwe ; and about five miles farther on our left, close to the end of a low range into which Morumbala merges, we crossed the mouth of the Shire, which seemed to be about 200 yards broad. A little inland from the confluence there is another rebel stockade, which was attacked by Ensign Kebeiro with three European soldiers, and captured ; they disarmed the rebels and threw the guns into the water. This Ensign and Miranda volunteered to disperse the people of Kisaka, who were riding roughshod over the inha- bitants of Senna ; but the offer was declined, the few real Portu- guese fearing the disloyal half-castes among whom they dwelt. Slavery and immorality have here done their work ; nowhere else does the European name stand at so low an ebb ; but what can be expected ? Few Portuguese women are ever taken to the colonies, and here I did not observe that honourable regard for the offspring which I noticed in Angola. The son of a late Governor of Tete was pointed out to me in the condition and habit of a slave. There is neither priest nor school at Senna, though there are ruins of churches and convents. On passing the Shire, we observed great quantities of the plant Alfacinya, akeady mentioned, floating down into the Zam- besi. It is probably the Pistia stratiotes, a gigantic "duck- weed." It was mixed with quantities of another aquatic plant, which the Barotse named " Njefu," containing in the petiole of the leaf a pleasant-tasted nut. This was so esteemed by Sebitu- ane, that he made it part of his tribute from the subjected tribes. Dr. Hooker Idndly informs me that the njefu *'is probably a species of Trapa, the nuts of which are eaten in the south of 664 THE NJEFU — MAZARO. Chap. XXSII. Eui'ope and in India. Government derives a large revenue from them in Kashmir, amounting to 12,000^. per annum for 128,000 ass-loads ! The ancient Thracians are said to have eaten them largely. In the south of France they are caUed water-chesnuts." The existence of these plants in such abundance in the Shire, may show that it flows from large collections of stiU water. We found them growing in all the still branches and lagoons of the Leeambye in the far north, and there also we met a beautiful little floating plant, the Azolla nilotica, w^liich is found in the upper Nile. They are seldom seen in flowing streams. A few miles beyond the Shire we left the hills entirely, and sailed between extensive flats. The banlvs seen in the distance are covered with trees. We slept on a large inhabited island, and then came to the entrance of the river Mutu (lat. 18° 3' 37" S., long. 35° 46' E.) : the point of departure is called Mazaro, or " mouth of the Mutu." The people who live on the north are called Baroro, and their country Bororo. The whole of the right bank is in subjection to the Landeens, who, it was imagined, would levy a tribute upon us, for this they are accustomed to do to passengers. I regret that we did not meet them, for, though they are named Caffres, I am not sure whether they are of the Zulu family or of the Mashona. I should have liked to form their acquaintance, and to learn what they really think of white men. I understood from Sekwebu, and from one of Changamera's people who lives at Linyanti, and was present at the attack on Senna, that they consider the whites as a conquered tribe. The Zambesi at Mazaro is a magnificent river, more than half a mile wide and without islands. The opposite bank is covered with forests of fine timber ; but the delta which begins here, is only an immense flat covered with high coarse grass and reeds, with here and there a few mango and cocoa-nut trees. This was the point whicli was reached by the late lamented Captain Parker, who fell at the Sulina mouth of the Danube. I had a strong desire to follow the Zambesi further, and ascertain where this enormous body of water found its way into the sea ; but, on hearing from the Portuguese that he had ascended to this point and had been highly pleased with the capabilities of the river, I felt sure that his valuable opinion must be in possession of the Admiralty. On my arrival in Chap. XXXH. THE QUILIMAKE AND ZAMBESI. 605 England I applied to Captain Washington, Hydi'ograplier to the Admiralty, and he promptly furnished the document for publi- cation by the Eoyal Geographical Society. The river between Mazaro and the sea must, therefore, be judged of from the testimony of one more competent to decide on its merits than a mere landsman like myself. On the Quilimane and Zambesi Rivers. From the Journal of the late Capt. Hyde Parker, E.N., H.M. Brig " Pantaloon." " The Liiabo is the main outlet of the Great Zambesi. In the rainy season — January and February principally — the whole country is oyerflowed, and the water escapes by the different rivers as far up as Quilimane ; but in the dry season neither Quilimane nor Olinda communicates with it. The position of the river is rather incorrect in the Admiralty chart, being six miles too much to the southward and also considerably to the westward. Indeed, the coast from here up to Tongamiara seems too far to the westward. The entrance to the Luabo river is about two miles broad, and is easily distinguishable, when abreast of it, by a bluff (if I may so term it) of high straight trees, very close together, on the western side of the entrance. The bar may be said to be formed by two series of sandbanks, — that running from the eastern point runs diagonally across (opposite?) the entrance and nearly across it. Its western extremity is about two miles outside the west point. " The bank running out from the west point projects to the southward three miles and a half, passing not one quarter of a mile from the eastern or cross bank. This narrow passage is the bar passage. It breaks completely across at low water, except under very extraordinary circumstances. At this time — low water — a great portion of the banks are uncovered ; in some places they are seven or eight feet above water. " On these banks there is a break at aU times, but in fine weather, at high water, a boat may cross near the east point. There is very little water, and, in places, a nasty race and bubble, so that caution is requisite. The best directions for going in over the regular bar passage, according to my expe- rience, are as follows : — Steer down well to the eastward of the bar passage, so as to avoid the outer part of the western shoals. 666 CAPTAIN HYDE PARKER ON THE Chap. XXXII. on which there is usually a bad sea. When you get near the eross-bar, keep along it tiU the bluff of trees on the west side of the entrance bears N.E. ; you may then steer straight for it. This will clear the end of the avss-bar, and, directly you are within that, the water is smooth. The worst sea is generaUy just without the bar passage. " Witliin the pomts the river widens at first and then contracts again. About tln-ee miles from the Tree Bluff is an island ; the passage up the river is the right-hand side of it, and deep. The plan will best explain it. The rise and fall of the tide at the entrance of the river being at springs twenty feet, any vessel can get in at that time, but, with all these conveniences for traffic, there is none here at present. The water in the river is fresh down to the bar with the ebb-tide, and in the rainy season it is fresh at the surface quite outside. In the rainy season, at the full and change of the moon, the Zambesi frequently overflows its banks, making the country for an immense distance one great lake, with only a few small eminences above the water. On the banks of the river the huts are built on piles, and at these times the communication is only in canoes; but the waters do not remain up more than three or four days at a time. The first village is about eight miles up the river, on the western bank, and is opposite to another branch of the river called * Muselo,' which discharges itself into the sea about five miles to the eastward, " The village is extensive, and about it there is a very large quantity of land in cultivation ; calavances, or beans, of different sorts, rice, and pumpkins, are the principal things. I saw also about here some wild cotton, apparently of veiy good quality, but none is cultivated. The land is so fertile as to produce almost any (tiling ?) without much trouble. " At this village is a very large house, mud-built, with a court- yard. I believe it to have been used as a barracoon for slaves, several large cargoes having been exported from this river. I proceeded up the river as far as its junction with the Quilimane river, called ' Boca do Kio,' by my computation between 70 and 80 miles from the entrance. The influence of the tides is felt about 25 or 30 miles up the river. Above that, the stream, in the dry season, runs from 1^ to 2^ miles an hour, but in the Chap. XXXII. QUILBIANE AND' ZAMBESI. 667 rains much stronger. The banks of the river, for the first 30 miles, are generally thickly clothed with trees, with occasional open glades. There are many huts and villages on both sides, and a great deal of cultivation. At one village, about 17 miles up on the eastern bank, and distinguished by being surrounded by an immense number of bananas and plantain-trees, a great quantity of excellent peas are cultivated, also cabbages, tomatos, onions, &c. Above this there are not many inhabitants on the left or west banl^, although it is much the finest country, being higher, and abounding in cocoa-nut palms ; the eastern bank being sandy and barren. The reason is, that some years back the Landeens, or Caffres, ravaged all this country, killing the men and taking the women as slaves, but they have never crossed the river ; hence the natives are afraid to settle on the west bank, and the Portuguese owners of the different " prasos " have virtually lost them. The banks of the river continue mostly sandy, with few trees, except some cocoa-nut palms, until the southern end of the large plantation of Nyangue, formed by the river about 20 miles from Maruru. Here the country is more populous and better cultivated, the natives a finer race, and the huts larger and better constructed. Maruru belongs to Senor Asevedo, of Quilimane, well known to all English ofiicers on the east coast for his hospitality. " The climate here is much cooler than nearer the sea, and Asevedo has successfully cultivated most European as w^ell as tropical vegetables. The sugar-cane thrives, as also coffee and cotton, and indigo is a w^eed. Cattle here are beautiful, and some of them might show with credit in England. The natives are intelligent, and under a good government this fine country might become very valuable. Thi*ee miles from Maruru is Mesan, a very pretty village among palm and mango trees. There is here a good house belonging to a Senor Ferrao ; close by is the canal (Miitu) of communication between the Quilimane and Zambesi rivers, which in the rainy season is navigable (?). I visited it in the month of October, which is about the dryest time of the year ; it was then a dry canal, about 30 or 40 yards wide, overgrown with trees and gi'ass, and, at the bottom^ at least 16 or 17 feet above the level of the Zambesi, which was running beneath. In the rains, by the marks I saw, the entrance 668 THE QUILIMANE AND ZAMBESI : Chap. XXXII. rise of tlie river must be very nearly 30 feet, and the volume of water discharged by it (the Zambesi) enormous. " Above Maruru the country begins to become more hilly, and the high mountains of Boruru are in sight ; the first view of these is obtained below Nyangue, and they must be of consi- derable height, as from this they are distant above 40 miles. They are reported to contain great mineral wealth ; gold and copper being found in the range, as also coal (?). The natives (Landeens) are a bold, independent race, who do not acknow- ledge the Portuguese authority, and even make them pay for leave to pass unmolested. Throughout the whole course of the river, hippopotami were very abundant, and at one 'village a chase by the natives was witnessed. They harpoon the animal with a barbed lance, to which is attached, by a cord 3 or 4 fathoms long, an inflated bladder. The natives follow in their canoes, and look out to fix more harpoons as the animal rises to blow, and, when exhausted, despatch him with their lances. It is, in fact, nearly similar to a whale-hunt. Elephants and lions are also abundant on the western side ; the latter destroy many of the blacks annually, and are much feared by them. Alligators are said to be numerous, but I did not see any. " The voyage up to Maruru occupied seven days, as I did not work the men at the oar, but it might be done in four ; we re- turned to the bar in two and a half days. " There is another mouth of the Zambesi, seven miles to the westward of Luabo, which was visited by the * Castor's ' pinnace ; and I was assured by Lieutenant Hoskins that the bar was better than the one I visited." The conclusions of Captain Parker are strengthened by those of Lieutenant A. H. Hoskins, who was on the coast at the same time, and also visited this spot. Having applied to my friend for his deliberate opinion on the subject, he promptly furnished the following note in January last : — " The Zambesi appears to have five principal mouths, of which the Luabo is the most southern and most navigable ; Cumana, and two whose names I do not know, not having myself visited it, lying between it and the Quilimane, and the rise and fall at spring-tides on the bar of the Luabo is 22 feet ; and as, in the Chap. XXXII. LIEUTENANT HOSKINS' REMARKS. 6G9 passage, there is never less than four feet (I having crossed it at dead low-water — springs), this would give an average depth sufficient for any commercial purposes. The rise and fall is six feet greater, the passages narrower and more defined, conse- quently deeper and more easily found than that of the Quilunane river. The river above the bar is very tortuous, but deep ; and it is observable that the influence of the tide is felt much higher in this branch than in the others ; for whereas m the Catrina and Cumana I have obtained drinkable water a very short dis- tance from the mouth, in the Luabo I have ascended 70 miles without finding the saltness perceptibly diminished. This would facilitate navigation, and I have no hesitation in saying that little difficulty Avould be experienced in conveying a steam- vessel of the size and capabilities of the gunboat I lately commanded as high as the branching off of the Quilioiane river (Mazaro), which, in the dry season, is observed many yards above the Luabo (main stream) ; though I have been told by the Portu- guese that the freshes which come down in December and March fill it temporarily. These freshes deepen the river considerably at that time of the year, and freshen the water many miles from the coast. The population of the delta, except in the immediate neighbourhood of the Portuguese, appeared to be very sparse. Antelopes and hippopotami were plentiful ; the former tame and easily shot. I inquired frequently of both natives and Portu- guese, if slavers were in the habit of entering there to ship their cargoes, but could not ascertain that they have ever done so in any except the Quilimane. With common precaution the rivers are not unhealthy ; for, during the whole time I was employed in them (off and on during eighteen months), in open boats and at all times of the year, frequently absent from the ship for a month or six weeks at a time, I had not, in my boat's crew of fourteen men, more than two, and those mild, cases of fever. Too much importance cannot be ascribed to the use of quinine, to which I attribute our comparative immunity, and with which our judicious commander. Commodore Wy\dll, kept us amply supphed. I hope these few remarks may be of some little use in confirming your views of the utility of that magnificent river. "A. H. H. HosKiNS." 670 THE MUTU. Chap. XXXH. It ought to be remembered that the testimony of these gen- tlemen is all the more valuable, because they visited the river when the water was at its lowest, and the sm*face of the Zambesi was not, as it was now, on a level ^vith and flowing into the Mutu, but 16 feet beneath its bed. The Mutu, at the point of departm-e, was only 10 or 12 yards broad, shallow, and filled with aquatic plants. Trees and reeds along the bank overhang it so much, that, though we had brought canoes and a boat from Tete, we were unable to enter the Mutu with them, and left them at Mazaro. During most of the year, this part of the Mutu is diy, and we were even now obliged to carry all our luggage by land for about fifteen miles. As Kilimane is called, in all the Portuguese documents, the capital of the rivers of Senna, it seemed strange to me that the capital should be built at a point where there was no direct water conveyance to the magnificent river whose name it bore; and on inquiiy, I was informed that the whole of the Mutu was large in days of yore, and admitted of the free passage of great launches from Kilimane all the year round ; but that now this part of the Mutu had been filled up. I was seized by a severe tertian fever at Mazaro, but went along the right bank of the Mutu to the N.N.E. and E. for about 15 miles. AVe then found that it was made navigable by a river called the Pangdzi, which comes into it from the north. Another river, flowing from the same direction, called the Ludre, swells it still more ; and, last of all, the Likuare, with the tide, make up the river of Kilimane. The Mutu at Ma- zaro is simply a connecting link, such as is so often seen in Africa, and neither its flow nor stoppage affects the river of Kilimane. The waters of the Pangazi were quite clear com- pared with those of the Zambesi.* * I owe the following information, of a much later date, also to the politeness of Captain Washington. H. M. sloop " Grecian " visited the coast in 1852-3, and the master remarks that " the entrance to the Luabo is in lat. 18° 51' S., long. 36° 12' E., and may be known by a range of hum- mocks on its eastern side, and very low land to the S.W. The entrance is narrow, and, as with all the rivers on this coast, is fronted by a bar, which renders the navigation, particularly for boats, very dangerous with the wind to the south of east or west. Our boats proceeded 20 miles up this river, 2 fathoms on the bar, then 2^ — 4—6—7 fathoms. It was Chap. XXXH. EFFECTS OF FEVER. 671 My fever became excessively severe, in consequence of tra- velling in the hot sun, and the long gTass blocking up the narrow path, so as to exclude the air. The pulse beat with amazing force, and felt as if thumping against the crown of the head. The stomach and spleen swelled enormously, giving me, for the first time, an appearance which I had been disposed to laugh at among the Poi-tuguese. At Interra we met Senhor Asevedo, a man who is well known by all who ever ^-isited Kilimane, and who was presented with a gold chronometer watch by the Ad- miralty, for his attentions to English officers. He immediately tendered his large sailing launch, which had a house in the stern. This was greatly in my favour, for it anchored in the middle of the stream, and gave me some rest from the mosquitoes, which navigable further up, but they did not proceed. It is quite possible for a moderate-sized vessel to cross the bar at spring-tides, and be j)erfectly landlocked and hidden amongst the trees. " The Maiiido, in 18° 52' S., 36° 12' E., is not mentioned in Horshurgh, nor laid down in the Admiralty chart, but is, nevertheless, one of some import- ance, and appears to be one of the principal stations for shipping slaves, as the boats found two barracoons, about 20 miles up, bearing every indication of having been very recently occupied, and which had good presumptive evidence that the * Cauraigo,' a brig under American colours, had embarked a cargo from thence but a short time before. This river is fronted by a portion of the Elephant Shoals, at the distance of three or four miles outside. The eastern bank is formed by level sea-cliffs (as seen from the ship it has that appearance), high for this part of the coast, and conspicuous. The w^estern side is composed of thick trees, and terminates in dead wood, from which we called it ' Dead-wood Point.' After crossing the bar it branches oflf in a W. and N."W. direction, the latter being the principal arm, up which the boats went some 30 miles, or about 10 beyond the barracoon. Fresh water can be obtained almost immediately inside the entrance, as the stream runs down very rapidly with the ebb- tide. The least w^ater crossing the bar (low-water — springs) was 1^ fathom, one cast only therefi-om from 2 to 5 fathoms, another 7 fathoms nearly the whole way up. "The Catrina, lat. 18° 50' S., long. 36° 24' E. The exteraal appearance of this river is precisely similar to that of the Maiudo, so much so, that it is difficult to distinguish them by any feature of the land. The longitude is the best guide, or, in the absence of observation, perhaps the angles contained by the extremes of land wiU be serviceable. Thus, at nine miles off the Maiudo the angle contained by the above was seven points, the bearing being N.E. W. of N.W. (?) ; whilst off the Catrina, at the same distance from shore (about nine miles), the angle was only 3| to 4 points, being N. to N.W. As we did not send the boats up this river, no informa- tion was obtained." 672 THE AUTHOR'S OBLIGATIONS. Chap. XXXIL in the whole of the delta are something frightful. Sailing com- fortably in this commodious launch along the river of Kilimane, we reached that viUage (lat. 17° 53' 8" S., long. 36° 40' E.) on the 20th of May, 1856, which wanted only a few days of being four years since I started from Cape Town. Here I was received into the house of Colonel Galdino Jose Nunes, one of the best men in the country. I had been three years without hearing from my family ; letters having frequently been sent, but some- how or other, with but a single exception, they never reached me. I received, however, a letter from Admiral Trotter, con- veying information of their welfare, and some newspapers, which were a treat indeed. Her Majesty's brig the " Frohc" had called to inquire for me in the November previous, and Captain Nolloth of that ship had most considerately left a case of wine ; and his surgeon. Dr. Jas. Walsh, divining what I should need most, left an ounce of quinine. These gifts made my heart overflow. I had not tasted any liquor w^hatever during the time I had been in Africa ; but when reduced in Angola to extreme weakness, I found much benefit from a little wine, and took from Loanda one bottle of brandy in my medicine-chest, intending to use it if it were again required ; but the boy who carried it whirled the box upside down, and smashed the bottle, so I cannot give my testimony either in favour of or against the brandy. But my joy on reaching the east coast was sadly embittered by the news that Commander MacLune, of H. M. brigantine " Dart," on coming in to Kilimane to pick me up, had, with Lieutenant Woodruflfe and five men, been lost on the bar. I never felt more poignant sorrow. It seemed as if it would have been easier for me to have died for them, than that they should all be cut off from the joys of life in generously attemj)ting to render me a service. I would here acknowledge my deep obli- gations to the Earl of Clarendon ; to the Admiral at the Cape ; and others, for the kind interest they manifested in my safety ; even the inquiries made were very much to my advantage. I also refer with feelings of gratitude to the Governor of Mozam- bique for offering me a passage in the schooner " Zambesi," belonging to that province; and I shall never forget the generous hospitality of Colonel Xunes and his nephew, with wliom I remained. One of the discoveries I have made is that Chap. XXXH. DEVELOPING EESOUECES OF INTEEIOE. 673 there are vast numbers of good people in the world, and I do most devoutly tender my unfeigned thanks to that Gracious One who mercifully watched over me in every position, and influenced the hearts of both black and white to regard me with favour. With the united testimony of Captain Parker and Lieutenant Hoskins, added to my own observation, there can be no reason- able doubt but that the real mouth of the Zambesi is available for the purposes of commerce. The delta is claimed by the Portuguese, and the southern bank of the Luabo, or Cuama, as this part of the Zambesi is sometimes called, is o\Mied by inde- pendent natives of the Cafifre family. The Portuguese are thus near the main entrance to the new central region ; and, as they have of late years sho^Ti, in an enlightened and liberal spirit, their desire to develop the resources of Eastern Africa by pro- claiming Mozambique a free port, it is to be hoped that the same spirit will lead them to invite mercantile enterprise up the Zambesi, by offering facilities to those who may be led to push commerce into the regions lying far beyond their territory. Their wish to co-operate in the noble work of developing the resources of the rich country beyond, could not be shown better than by placing a village with Zambesian pilots at the harbour of Mitilone, and erecting a lighthouse for the guidance of sea- faring men. If this were done, no nation would be a greater gainer by it than the Portuguese themselves, and assuredly no other needs a resuscitation of its commerce more. Their kind- ness to me personally makes me wish for a return of their ancient prosperity ; and the most liberal and generous act of the enlightened young king H. M. Don Pedro, in sending out orders to support my late companions at the public expense of the province of Mozambique until my return to claim them, leads me to hope for encouragement in every measure for either the development of commerce, the elevation of the natives, or abolition of the trade in slaves. As far as I am myself concerned, the opening of the new central countiy is a matter for congratulation only in so far as it opens up a prospect for the elevation of the inhabitants. As I have elsewhere remarked, I view the end of the geographical feat as the beginning of the missionary enterprise. I take the latter term in its most extended signification, and include every 2 X 674 THE AUTHOK'S OBJECTS. Chap. XXXH. effort made for the amelioration of our race ; the promotion of all those means by wliich God in His providence is workiag, and briQging all His dealings vdih. man to a glorious consummation. Each man in his sj^here, either knowingly or unwittingly, is performmg the will of our Father in heaven. Men of science, searchiug after hidden truths, which when discovered will, like the electric telegi'aph, bind men more closely together — soldiers battling for the right against tyranny — sailors rescuing the vic- tims of oppression from the grasp of heartless men-stealers — merchants teaching the nations lessons of mutual dependence — and many others, as well as missionaries, all work in the same direction, and all efforts are overruled for one glorious end. If the reader has accompanied me thus far, he may perhaps be disposed to take an interest in the objects I propose to myself, should God mercifully grant me the honour of doing something more for Africa. As the highlands on the borders of the central basin are comparatively healthy, the first object seems to be to secure a permanent path thither, in order that Europeans may pass as quicldy as possible through the unhealthy region near the coast. The river has not been sm*veyed, but at the time I came dow^n there was abundance of water for a large vessel, and this continues to be the case during four or five months of each year. The months of low-water still admit of navigation by launches, and would permit small vessels equal to the Thames steamers to ply with ease in the deep channel. If a steamer were sent to examine the Zambesi, I would recommend one of the Hghtest draught, and the months of May, June, and July for passing through the delta ; and this not so much for fear of w^ant of water, as the danger of being grounded on a sand or mud bank, and the health of the crew being endangered by the delay. In the months referred to, no obstruction would be incurred in the channel below Tete. Twenty or thu-ty miles above that point we have a small rapid, of which I regret my inability to speak, as (mentioned already) I did not visit it. But taking the distance below this point, w^e have, in round numbers, 300 miles of navigable river. Above this rapid we have another reach of 300 miles, with sand, but no mudbanks in it, which brings us to the foot of the eastern ridge. Let it not, however, be thought Chap. XXXII. THE AUTHOR'S OBJECTS. 675 that a vessel by going tliither would return laden with ivory and gold-dust. The Portuguese of Tete pick up all the merchandize of the tribes in their vicinity, and, though I came out by tra- versing the people vnih. whom the Portuguese have been at war, it does not follow that it will be perfectly safe for others to go in whose goods may be a stronger temptation to cupidity than any- thing I possessed. When we get beyond the hostile population mentioned, we reach a very different race. On the latter my chief hopes at present rest. All of them, however, are willing and anxious to engage in trade, and, while eager for this, none have ever been encouraged to cultivate the raw materials of commerce. Their country is well adapted for cotton ; and I venture to entertain the hope that by distributing seeds of better kinds than that which is found indigenous, and stimulating the natives to cultivate it by affording them the certainty of a market for all they may produce, we may engender a feeling of mutual dependence between them and ourselves. I have a two-fold object in view, and believe that, by guiding our missionary la- bours so as to benefit our own country, we shall thereby more effectually and permanently benefit the heathen. Seven years Avere spent at Kolobeng in instructing my fi-iends there ; but the country being incapable of raising materials for exportation, when the Boers made their murderous attack and scattered the tribe for a season, none sympathised except a few Christian fiiends. Had the people of Kolobeng been in the iiabit of raising the raw materials of English commerce, the outrage would have been felt in England ; or, what is more likely to have been the case, the people would have raised themselves in the scale by barter, and have become, like the Basutos of Mo- shesh and people of Kuruman, possessed of fire-arms, and the Boers would never have made the attack at all. We ought to encourage the Africans to cultivate for our markets, as the most effectual means, next to the Gospel, of their elevation. It is in the hope of working out this idea that I propose the formation of stations on the Zambesi beyond the Portuguese territory, but having communication through them with the coast. A chain of stations admitting of easy and speedy inter- course, such as might be formed along the flank of the eastern ridge, would be in a favourable position for carrying out the 2x2 676 AERANGEMENTS ON LEAVING AFEICA. Chap. XXXII. objects in view. The London Missionary Society lias resolved to have a station among the Makololo on the north bank, and another on the south among the Matebele. The Church — Wes- leyan, Baptist, and that most energetic body, the Free Church — could each find desirable locations among the Batoka and adja- cent tribes. The coimtry is so extensive there is no fear of clashing. All classes of Clmstians find that sectarian rancour soon dies out when they are working together among and for the real heathen. Only let the healthy locality be searched for, and fixed upon, and then there wdll be free scope to work in the same cause in various directions, without that loss of men which the system of missions on the unhealthy coasts entails. While respectfully submitting the plan to these influential societies, I can positively state that, when fairly in the interior, there is per- fect security for life and property among a people who will at least listen and reason. Eight of my men begged to be allowed to come as far as Kili- mane, and, thinking that they would there see the ocean, I consented to their coming, though the food was so scarce m consequence of a dearth, that they were compelled to suffer some hunger. They would fain have come fiu'ther ; for when Sekeletu parted with them, liis orders were that none of them should turn until they had reached Ma Robert and brought her back ^vith them. On my explaining the difficulty of crossing the sea, he said, "JVherever you lead, they must follow." As I did not know well how I should get home myself, I advised them to go back to Tete, where food was abundant, and there await my return. I bought a quantity of calico and brass wire with ten of the smaller tusks w liich we had in our charge, and sent the former back as clothing to those who remained at Tete. As there were still twenty tusks left, I deposited them with Colonel Nunes, that, in the event of anytliing happening to prevent my retm-n, the impression might not be produced in the country, that I had made away with Sekeletu's ivory. I instructed Colonel Nunes, in case of my death, to sell the tusks and deliver the proceeds to my men ; but I intended, if my life should be prolonged, to p'urchase the goods ordered by Sekeletu in Eng- land with my own money, and pay myself on my return out of the price of the ivory. This I explained to the men fuU}^, and Chap. XXXII. THE AUTHOR'S POSITION. 677 they, understanding tlie matter, replied, " Nay, father, you will not die ; you will retiu-n to take us back to Sekeletu." They promised to wait till I came back, and, on my part, I assured them that nothing but death would prevent my return. This I said, though wliile waiting at Kilimane a letter came from the Directors of the London Missionary Society, stating that " they were restricted in their power of aiding plans connected only remotely with the spread of the Gospel, and that the financial circumstances of the Society were not such as to afford any ground of hope that it would be in a position, within any definite period, to enter upon untried, remote, and difficult fields of labour." This has been explained since as an effusion caused by temporary financial depression; but feeling perfect confidence in my Makololo friends, I was determined to return and trust to their generosity. The old love of independence, which I had so strongly before joining the Society, again returned. It was roused by a mistaken view of what tliis letter meant, for the Directors, immediately on my reachmg home, saw the great importance of the opening, and entered with enlightened zeal on the work of sending the Gospel into the new field. It is to be hoped that their constituents wiU not only enable them to begin, but to carry out their plans ; and that no material depression will ever again be permitted, nor appearance of spasmodic benevolence recur. Wliile I hope to continue the same cordial co-operation and friendship which have always characterised our intercourse, various reasons induce me to withdraw from pecuniary dependence on any Society. I have done sometliing for the heathen, but for an aged mother, who has still more sacred claims tlian they, I have been able to do nothing, and a continuance of the connec- tion w^ould be a perpetuation of my inability to make any pro- vision for her declining years. In addition to " clergyman's sore tln-oat," wliich partially disabled me from the work, my father's death imposed new obligations ; and a fresh source of income having been opened to me without my asking, I had no hesita- tion in accepting what would enable me to fulfil my duty to my aged parent as well as to the heathen. If the reader remembers the way in which I was led, wliile teaching the Bakwains, to commence exploration, he will, I ^ think, recognise the hand of Providence. Anterior to that, when- 678 EETEOSPECT. Chap. XXXTI. ]Mr. Moffat began to give the Bible — the Magna Charta of all the rights and pri^dleges of modern civilization — to the Bechuanas, Sebituane went north, and spread the language into which he was translating the sacred oracles, in a new region larger than France. Sebituane, at the same time, rooted out hordes of bloody savages among whom no Avhite man could have gone, without leaving his skull to ornament some village. He opened up the way for me — let us hope also for the Bible. Then, again, while I was labour- ing at Kolobeng, seeing only a smaU arc of the cycle of Provi- dence ; I could not understand it, and felt inclined to ascribe our successive and prolonged droughts to the wicked one. But when forced by these, and the Boers, to become explorer, and open a new country in the north rather than set my face south- wards, where missionaries are not needed ; the gracious Spirit of God influenced the minds of the heathen to regard me with favour ; the DiA-ine hand is again perceived. Then, I turned away westwards, rather than in the opposite direction, chiefly from observing that some native Portuguese, though influenced by the hope of a reward from their Government to cross the continent, had been obKged to return from the east without accomplishing theii' object. Had I gone at fii'st in the eastern direction, which the course of the great Leeambye seemed to invite, I should have come among the belligerents near Tete, when the war was raging at its height, instead of, as it happened, when all was over. And again, when enabled to reach Loanda, the resolution to do my duty by going back to Linyanti, probably saved me from the fate of my papers in the " Forerunner." And then, last of all, this new country is partially opened to the sympathies of Christendom, and I find that Sechele himself has, though unbidden by man, been teaching his own people. In fact, he has been doing all, that I was prevented from doing, and I have been employed in ex- ploring— a work I had no previous intention of performing. I think, that I see the operation of the unseen hand in all this, and I humbly hope, that it will still guide me to do good in my day and generation in Africa. Viewing the success awarded to opening up the new country, as a development of Divine Providence in relation to the African family, the mind naturally turns to the probable influence it may have on negro slavery ; and more especially on the practice CiiAP. XXXII. COMMERCIAL STATIONS. 679 of it by a large portion of our own race. We now demand in- creased supplies of cotton and sugar, and then reprobate the means our American l^rethren adopt to supply our wants. We claim a right to speak about this evil, and also to act in reference to its removal, the more especially because we are of one blood. It is on the Anglo-American race that the hopes of the world for liberty and progress rest. Now it is very grievous to find one portion of this race practising the gigantic evil, and the other aiding, by increased demands for the produce of slave-labour, in perpetuating the enol-mous wrong. The Mauritius, a mere speck on the ocean, yields sugar, by means of guano, improved ma- chinery, and free labour, equal in amount to one-fourth part of the entire consumption of Great Britain. On that island, land is excessively dear, and far from rich : no crop can be raised except by means of guano, and labour has to be brought all the way from India. But in Africa the land is cheap, the soil good, and free labom- is to be found on the spot. Our chief hopes rest with the natives themselves ; and if the point to which I have given prominence, of healthy inland commercial stations, be realized, where all the produce raised may be collected, there is little doubt but that slavery among our kinsmen across the Atlantic wiU, in the course of some years, cease to assume the form of a neces- sity to even the slaveholders themselves. Natives alone can collect produce from the more distant hamlets, and bring it to the stations contemplated. This is the system pursued so suc- cessfully in Angola. If England had possessed that strip of land, by civilly declining to enrich her " Frontier colonists" by ^' Caffre wars," the inborn energy of English colonists would have de- veloped its resources, and the exports would not have been 100,000?. as now, but one million at least. The establishment of the necessary agency must be a work of time, and greater difficulty will be experienced on the eastern, than on the western side of the continent, because in the one region we have a people who Imow none but slave-traders, while in the other we have tribes who have felt the influence of the coast missionaries, and of the great Niger expedition ; one invaluable benefit it conferred was the dissemination of the knowledge of English love of commerce and English hatred of slavery, and it therefore was no failure. But on the east, there is a river which may become a good pathway to a central population who are friendly to the English ; and if 680 VILLAGE OF KILIMANE. Chap. XXXIL we can conciliate the less amicable people on tlie river, and in- troduce commerce, an effectual blow will be struck at the slave- trade in that quarter. By linking the Africans there to our- selves, in the manner proposed, it is hoped that their elevation will eventually be the result. In this hope and proposed effort, I am joined by my brother Charles, who has come from America, after seventeen years' separation, for the purpose. We expect success through the influence of that Spirit who already aided the efforts to open the country, and who has since turned the public mind towards it. A failure may be experienced by sudden rash speculation, over-stocking the markets there, and raising the prices against ourselves. But I propose to spend some more years of labom*, and shall be thankful if I see the system fairly begun in an open pathway which will eventually benefit both Africa and England. The village of Kilimane stands on a great mud bank, and is surrounded by extensive swamps and rice-grounds. The banks of the river are lined with mangrove-bushes, the roots of which, and the slimy banks on which they grow, are alternately exposed to the tide and sun. The houses are well built of brick and lime ; the latter from Mozambique. If one digs down two or three feet in any part of the site of the village, he comes to water : hence the walls built on tliis mud bank gradually subside; pieces are sometimes sawn off the doors below, because the walls in which they are fixed have descended into the ground, so as to leave the floors higher than the bottom of the doors. It is almost needless to say that Kilimane is veiy unhealthy. A man of plethoric temperament is sure to get fever ; and, concerning a stout person, one may hear the remark, " Ah ! he will not live long, he is sure to die." A Hamburgh vessel was lost near the bar before we came down. The men were much more regular in their habits than English sailors, so I had an opportunity of observing the fever, acting as a slow poison. They felt out of sorts " only, but gradually became pale, bloodless, and emaciated, then weaker and weaker, till at last they sank more like oxen bitten by tsetse than any disease I ever saw. The captain, a strong robust young man, remained in perfect health for about three months, but was at last knocked down suddenly, and made as helpless as a child, by this terrible disease. He had imbibed a foolish pre- CiiAP. XXXII. VALUE OF QUININE. G81 judice against quinine, our sheet- anchor in the complaint. This is rather a professional subject, but I introduce it here, in order to protest against the prejudice as almost entirely unfounded. Quinine is invaluable in fever, and never produces any un- pleasant effects in any stage of the disease, if exhibited in com- bination with an aperient. The captain was saved by it, without his knowledge, and I was thankful that the mode of treatment so efficacious among natives, promised so fair among Europeans. After waiting about six weeks at this unhealthy spot, in which, however, by the kind attentions of Colonel Nunes and his nephew, I partially recovered from my tertian, H. M. brig " Frolic " arrived off Kilimane. As the village is twelve miles from the bar, and the weather was rough, she was at anchor ten days before we knew of her presence, about seven miles from the entrance to the port. She brought abundant supplies for all my need ; and 150Z. to pay my passage home, from my kind friend Mr. Thompson, the Society's agent at the Cape. The Admiral at the Cape kindly sent an offer of a passage to the Mau- ritius, which I thankfully accepted. Sekwebu and one atten- dant alone remained with me now. He was very intelligent, and had been of the greatest service to me ; indeed, but for his good sense, tact, and command of the language of the tribes through which we passed, I believe we should scarcely have succeeded in reaching the coast. I naturally felt grateful to him ; and as his chief wished all my companions to go to England with me, and would probably be disappointed if none went, I thought it would be beneficial for him to see the effects of civil- ization, and report them to his countrymen ; I wished also to make some return for his very important services. Others had petitioned to come, but I explained the danger of a change of climate and food, and with difficulty restrained them. The only one who now remained begged so hard to come on board ship, that I greatly regretted, that the expense prevented my acceding to his wish to visit England. I said to him, " You will die if you go to such a cold country as mine." " That is nothing," he reiterated ; " let me die at your feet." When we parted from our friends at Kilimane, the sea on the bar was frightful even to the seamen. This was the first time Sekwebu had seen the sea. Captain Peyton had sent two boats 682 ROUGH PASSAGE TO THE « FROLIC." Chap. XXXH. in case of accident. The waves were so liigh that, when the cutter was in one trough, and we in the pinnace in another, her mast was hid. We then mounted to the crest of the wave, rushed down the slope, and struck the water again with a blow which felt as if she had struck the bottom. Boats must be sin- gularly well constructed to be able to stand these shocks. Three breakers swept over us. The men lift up their oars, and a wave comes sweeping over all, giving the impression that the boat is going down, but she only goes beneath the top of the wave, comes out on the other side, and swings down the slope, and a man bales out the water with a bucket. Poor Sekwebu looked at me when these terrible seas broke over, and said, " Is this the way you go ? Is this the way you go ? " I smiled, and said, " Yes ; don't you see it is ? " and tried to encom-age him. He was well acquainted with canoes, but never had seen aught Hke this. When we reached the sliip — a fine, large brig of six- teen guns and a crew of one hundred and thirty — she was roUing so, that we could see a part of her bottom. It was quite impos- sible for landsmen to catch the ropes and climb up, so a chair was sent down, and we were hoisted in as ladies usually are, and received so hearty an English welcome from Captain Peyton and all on board, that I felt myself at once at home in every- thing, except my o^^^l mother-tongue. I seemed to know the language perfectly, but the words I wanted, would not come at my caU. When I left England I had no intention of returning, and directed my attention earnestly to the languages of Africa, paying none to English composition. With the exception of a short interval in Angola, I had been three and a haK years without speaking English, and this, with thirteen years of pre- vious partial disuse of my native tongue, made me feel sadly at a loss on board the " Frolic." We left Kilimane on the 12th of July, and reached the Mauritius on the 12th of August, 1856. Sekwebu was picking up English, and becoming a favourite with both men and officers. He seemed a little bewildered, everything on board a man-of-war being so new and strange ; but he remarked to me several times, " Your country- men are very agreeable," and " What a strange country this is — aU water together." He also said, that he now understood why I used the sextant. When we reached the Mauritius a steamer Chap. XXXH. DEATH OF SEKWEBU. VOYAGE HOME. 683 came out to tow us into the harbour. The constant strain on his untutored mind seemed now to reach a climax, for during the night he became insane. I thought at first that he was intoxicated. He had descended into a boat, and, when I attempted to go do^vn and bring liim into the ship, he ran to the stern, and said, " No ! no ! it is enough that I die alone. You must not perish ; if you come I shall throw myself into the water." Per- ceiving that his mind was affected, I said, " Now, Sekwebu, we are going to Ma Eobert." This struck a chord in his bosom, and he said, " 0 yes ; where is she, and where is Eobert ? " and he seemed to recover. The officers proposed to secure him by putting him in irons, but, being a gentleman in his own country, I objected, knowing that the insane often retain an impres- sion of ill-treatment, and I could not bear to have it said in Sekeletu's country that I had chained one of his principal men, as they had seen slaves treated. I tried to get him on shore by day, but he refused. In the evening a fresh accession of insanity occurred — he tried to spear one of the crew, then leaped over- board, and, though he could swim well, pulled himself down hand under hand, by the chain cable. We never found the body of poor Sekwebu. At the Mauritius I was most hospitably received by Major- General C. M. Hay, and he generously constrained me to remain with him till, by the influence of the good climate and quiet English comfort, I got rid of an enlarged spleen from African fever. In November I came up the Ked Sea; escaped the danger of shipwreck through the admirable management of Captain Powell, of the Perdnsular and Oriental Steam Com- pany's ship " Candia and on the 12th of December was once more in dear old England. The Company most HberaUy refunded my passage-money. I have not mentioned half the favours bestowed, but I may just add that no one has cause for more abundant gratitude to his fellow-men and to his Maker than I have ; and may God grant that the effect on my mind be such that I may be more humbly devoted to the service of the Author of all our mercies ! Appendix. 681 LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES, Ar-i». 3 u of |3Q r-l > bn he 5^ faft bo bo bD lO CO O CO CO O CO O O lO >0 >.0 lO o 00 00 OOCOOOCOOO 00 CO 00 5^ ^ QJ O O w o O r« O es U5 tii C J2 -I -"E^ _S W ^ J> t. O bO • o e G o CO r-l O) r£3 o be O . ^ a) o) ^ "o ^ ' ^ CS o ^ • ^ ^ « o ° s ° J o . o S « bO-^ So o e*- cS o -ti t^; tti 72 App. LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES. 685 CO 0> 1-1 Ol o bio b'r. iio <; fcC be be bJO be bo <, ^ \n CC X) t- OO CO lO lO o 00 00 CO 00 O O uO O lO rt< ^ -t< CI i-H (386 LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES. Arp. Jl oi5 t>. o oo o I Oi 00 I O .C CD ^ 1= ^ c .5 i t- o g ^ fcf II S J£ C 2 J -33 '~' ■♦^ r« S ^ -2 CO 00 00 O O t> 'rfi o <; 00 00 *■ 00 CO lO t^" O i-l ,-H CI (M o o o o 00 r> (M (M CM .-I ,-. o o o o o> a 3 o "it -I .op . o bC bB O O 00 O p CIh cs -2 ^ > • o o ^ « I . a i ^1 p be c3 W3 ^ ti_ r3 CO ^ o go o _ bC-!3 C i 3 C C3 ; Ch O O S <1 3 •Si So « O 3 4, App. LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES. G87 T3 'Cl t t o o o o |2|1 ^ (M -3 •^3 O £-> H lis- i 1 II Ti< CO CO 05 o CO CO Dec. o o Dec. Dec. Dec. Jan. Jan. OS (M CO ^tH i-i o ++ CM (M CO • C» (N 00 CM OS o o OS T^ CO OS CO o ^ T-l e 5 o ; a o « 3 ^ 2 w ^ A CO . s .1 • ® o • "§ CO : =3^ S • 3 o W I 2 S fo a S^:S •a s = g .ht»^ a ^ ■ I i 2 1 c3 O 9 o J S a g a •s .2 "is o ^ ^ --^ = !+- 2 ^ o 2 M ® c ^ ^ cn;=3 rt a jo o ^ =^ i 15 •73 • «^ 1^ S a, O -C! ^ S c5 ? bn J t!; illifi O S H H W pq JO- 'Sco-^ ^ 2 1 - I IF a u3 ^ 2 "S '« s- 72 o _ ^1. bi) . 2? i CS cS g -3 3'-^ LONDON : PRIXTED BT W. CIX)WES AND SOXS, STAMFORD STREET, AND CHARIXG CROSS. Date Due — ^ — — I ■ If -H ^ ' ■ * ' ' !• 1 Nov i J «8F 1999