PRINCETON, N. J Purchased by the Hammill Missionary Fund. Division Section > — >-'. .— r . Number V.i. 2» i 1 1 Digitized by tine Internet Arcliive in 2015 Iittps://archive.org/details/tenyearsinequato02casa_0 Tm YEARS m EQUATORIA AND THE RETURN WITH EMIN PASHA I 1 1 TEF YEARS IN EQUATORIA AND THE RETURN WITH EMIN PASHA BY MAJOR GAETANO" CASATI TRANSLA TED FROM THE ORIGINAL ITALIAN MANUSCRIPT BY The Hon. Mrs. J. RANDOLPH CLAY ASSISTED BY Mb. I. WALTER SAVAGE LANDOR WITH UPWARDS OF ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY ILLUSTRATIONS COLOURED PLATES AND FOUR MAPS " Wc cjiu ouly achieve what is most uoble and groat by modesty " St. Hieronymus IN TWO I'OLUMES—VOL. II. LONDON AND NEW YORK FREDERICK WARNE AND CO. 1891 [^AU I{i(jhts yfeserrerf] Copyright i8gi by Hon. Mrs. J. Randolph Clay for the United States of Anuiica This Edition is for Sale iti the United States only CONTENTS OF VOLUME II. CHAPTER I. THE FALL OF KHARTOUM. The carpenter of Dougola — May 1884 — A life of jDenance — The standard of rebellion unfurled — Causes of disaffection in the Egyptian Soudan — The slave trade — Eaouf Paslia and his measures— A Babjdonian banquet — Abd-el-Kader Pasha— Defeat of the troops — Wise measures of the Governor — General Hicks' expedition — Ti sehil Allah — Trophies of human skulls — Osman Digna, chief of the dervishes — Plans concocted in Cairo — General Gordon — His mission — His intentions — Prestige of his name — Battle of El-Teb — Fall of Sinkat— Surrender of Tokar— General Graham — Abandonment of the campaign in the Eastern Provinces — Tactics ; difficulties arising from the nature of the soil, from the climate and temperament of the enemy — Gordon cannot leave Khartoum — Belief expedition under the command of General Wolseley — Bombardment of Berber — Death of Colonel Stewart — Faulty division of the forces— The Mahdi's exertions — Wilson before Khartoum — The catastrophe — The soldier without fear and without reproach — The Geddal of the Mohammedans. Pp. 1—14 CHAPTER II. LIFE IN UNYORO. Hostilities cease — The inatamure — The king shows himself — Waganda and Wanyoro — Muanga and Kabba Rega— King Chua (Kabba Rega) — He remem- bers his friend Emin — Juaya — His royal palace — The morning greeting of king and people — The king's favourite occupation — " Thou art a shepherd " — Simulated piety and manifest avarice — His sons brouglit up by shep- herds—No profane eye is to rest on the king's cows— The milkers — Reception at an audience — Object of my mission — The good Kategora — Covetous intentions of the king — I speak with the king — Occupation of Tunguru and Msua — Arrival of Biri — The king yields — Hopes reposed in Biri — Kategora poisoned — "He dies, he dies!'' — Abd Rehman made proud — Vexations — Kisa and Gumangi— Emin believes in Kabba Rega's loyalty — The soldiers of Equatoria — Emin loses a good opportunity —The Shooli rebels defeated and subdued — Pantomime of the Lango — We are thirsty for blood — The dead fowl — The throne in danger — The queen- mother, a priestess and magician — The ceremony of the mjianyo — Kisa of Muenghe — Rejoicings and dancing — Burning of Juaya — A heap of ashes. Pp. 15—35 CONTENTS. CHAPTER nr. REOIOX BETWEEN' THE ALBERT AND Vlf TORIA LAKES. Uganda and Unyoro— Watershed between the Victoria Nile and Lake Albert — The region of forests— Mount Sedgiomocoro — The Kafu, the Ngussi, the Msiri — The peninsula of Magungo — Climate— Productions of the vegetable kingdom— The fauna — Destruction of hyenas — The chimpanzee— Professor Giglioli and the Tro;/loJ;/tes Schiceinfurthii — Professor Reichart of Berlin— The termes iiiordax — The different tribes of which the people of Unyoro consist — 1'lie Kini/oro or language spoken in Unyoro — The francolin and the tortoise — The leopard and the dog — King Chua tells the story of the Golden Book of his family — The Wahuma — Customs of this tribe — From Juaya to Katua on the Ruitan Lake — The Virica of the Vacongio — The Ruwenzori of Stanley — Mountains of the Moon — Political government and administration of the Soudan — The order of the Condo — Sacrifices at every new moon — The magic spirit that disturbs the mind of the Queen- mother — Suuna and the hundi-ed murdered — Bead culture — Three cudgel blows — Another locality selected — Cutting off the hands and blinding — A decree against pipes — -The ceremony of the milk — Kamissua, son of Rionga, entrapped— The king eats — The Wanyoro— The Tiumba — The JIbi/fju — The ceramic art — Butter — The merchants of Zanzibar — Customs of the Wanyoro — The great dispenser of rain and his delegates — Funeral honours — King Kamrasi's sepulchre — The veneration of the people and the capricious superstition of the despot ..... Pp. 36—59 CHAPTER IV. DIFFICULTIES IN UNYORO. A throne streaming with blood — Absolute power of the king — The hanassura — Their increasing influence, their recruitment, and their conduct — The king desirous of pleasing — " Movement is life " — The way of deceit and treason — A fatal dualism — -Pain destroys illusion — The boldness of yore encouraged by the paternal ghost — Alone in Juaya — Ahmed Akkad's good services — Willing and paid informer — The Dinka boy brave and affectionate — Shoot- ing the thieves — An unpleasant nocturnal visitor — The expulsion of the merchants — I am accused of plotting against the king — A guard on the River Kafu — Biri's ser\ant arrested — Chua will not have me — Plan to attack Wadelai — Emin informed of it by me — At MuLmba, June 1, 1887 — Obese women — The steamers Khedive and Xyanza on the Victoria IsUe — Burning of the village of Rokora — Destruction of barges — Anger of the king — Letters seized — Biri on the road to Unyoro — Unavoidable danger — Fortunate meeting with my people — The young ruler ignorant of the way to govern — The Waganda resume hostilities — A Winchester rifle, psychical experiment— Joyful welcome — I obtain permission to remain in Unyoro — Fights — A deputation from Waganda— Oakibi and Kauta — The troops of Waganda — They march past my house — The hanassura fighting — Emin at Kibiro — Alliance or invasion — My expulsion is requested— I am to exchange blood with his son Pp. 60 — 81 CONTENTS. vii CHAPTER V. KABBA REGa's HdSTILITT. Occupation of the region on the left bank of the Victoria Nile — Katongoli, the Lango man — A child as a holocaust — Guakamatera, prime minister of King Chua — "The king has ordered me to watch you" — The king reiterates his promises — Neither a single piece of ivory nor a cartridge — The guards' refusal — Attempt by night — Great imprudence — The king wishes me to become his guest — The merchant Hamis — Exchange of victims — The Victoria Nile i)laced in a position of defence —Sacred boats — Young students — Emin leaves on a visit to the northern stations — I ask for frequent despatch of messengers and steamers — Prisoners in Juaya — The raids at Menakulia — A caravan of Karagua people— Communications with Kafu and Kibiro are forbidden — Delusive hope — The 10th of December 1887 — Noble conduct of an enemy — Advice given to Biri — The 31st of December 18S7 — I think of a friend— The king's wickedness against him — Stanley has arrived — Guakamatera's strange proposal — -A goat and a fowl — The great drum gives no sound — A set trap . Pp. 82 — 96 CHAPTER VI. A NARROW ESCAPE. Sad farewell supper — Biri's illusions — " To-morrow I shall be with you — Shall we turn back ? — The great priest of the Unyoro sorcerers — Opening of the royal gate — The signal is given — An unrestrained crowd — Tied to the trees — " Woe to you ! " — Orders to my boy — Grief and alarm of Biri — A more fortunate soldier — I save my shoes — Our sufferings must not be relieved — Bought by means of a coat — Payment of services — Guakamatera at my residence — Confiscation of aU property — Eeturn of the conqueror — " Gobia, Gobia I " — The place of execution — Meeting of my domestics — A piece of paper and a pencU — Flight — Followed and threatened — Kagoro protects us — At Kibiro — Lying message of Guakamatera — The breakage of a pipe — I give away my waistcoat — At the salt-pits — From Tokongia — Ntiabo, the wife of the king — Kapidi, the cripple — Neither food nor passage — Driven to the woods — Dinka girl — A plate of beans — -Fadl starts in a boat — " Jltijunz/o, JIajungo .' " — A colony of Lnr — " We'U not kill you " — A happy meeting — "Man dies only by jiermission of God —Discouragement subdues us — " The steamer ! the steamer ! " — On the .shore of the lake — Eefreshing sleep — The Kheilh-e in sight — Fiesh anxieties — We are saved. Pp. 97—124 CHAPTER YII. THE ALBERT NYAXZA. Opinions of the geogi-aphers of the tii-st half of this century on Central Africa — Speke and Burton— Discovery of the Tanganika Lake— A great sea— The Victoria Lake discovered by Speke — Roslier's explorations — The Nile flows viii CONTENT'S. from Lake Victoria — Speke and Baker — Discovery of Lake Albert — Living- stone's hyijothesis contradicted by facts — Gordon in Equatoria — Equatoria ought to find a commercial opening at Zanzibar — It opens a way by the Nile to the lakes — Komolo Gessi explores the Albert Lake — The steamers Khedive and Nyanza — Colonel Mason's exploration — General Stone's opinion — Stanley and the Beatrice Gulf — From Berber to Khartoum — The Nile between Khartoum and Lado — Difficulty of the traffic by water in the Nile Valley — The sources of the Nile — The Albert Lake — Con- formation of its shores — The navigation of the lake — Storms — Croco- diles — Fishing — The lake boats --Ki biro salt-works — Salt trade — Tribute to the king — Cultivation— Products of the forests— Fa 'ona — Inhabitants. Pp. 125—139 CHAPTER VIII. FIRST NEWS OF STANLEYS APPROACH. Woe to the vanquished — A dignified proposal — Unexpected answer — Faithful- ness and disinterestedness badly rewarded — Proposals for the soldiers — Death of Hurshid — Cunning policj" of the King of Unyoro — Its conse- quences — BaUula on the Vurvira mountain — Enchantment of Sunga and congratulations of Umma— The aUied Lango — Contradictory news — Sunga's son — Arrival of Stanley — Emin's departure for Msua — Raids into the countries bordering on the Nile — Search for Stanley — Reticence of the natives — Interior condition of the Province — Major Rehan Aga — His declarations — His death — New misfortune — Major Hamid Aga — Demands of the soldiers — Ali remains — Emin does not accept advice from me — Fatal order — Pernicious lull — Demands and proposals of the first battalion — Emin at Kirri — His flight— The firman granting the title of Pasha — Defeat of Befo, chief of the Belinian — Stanley at Ndussuma — The wife of Mpigwa —The brave Mogo— The 27th of April 1888— Stanley's letter— Ad\-ice about the best thing to do Pp. 140 — 153 CHAPTER IX. ARRIV AL OF THE EXPEDITION. Emin appeals to the philanthropy and humanit}- of the English people- Stanley is summoned — The road to be followed by the Relief Expedition- There is no other than that of the Congo — Provisions fail — The Expedition separates — A disastrous road — Route proposed by Felkin recommended by Schweinfurth and Junker — Peters on the eastern road — Route by Kibali and the Bomokandi — The 29th of April ISSS — Henry Stanley — Hope and joy— Emin is not decided about his departure — I remain with Emin — Stanley refuses to perform an act of courtesy by visiting the station — Emin does not explain the dissensions in the Pronnce — His good faith is not justified — Jephson remains with Emin — Stanley's letter and sword — Stanley's proposals to Emin about the future — Scientific labours bear fruit — An angle of Lake Victoria — T'he arrival of Stanley increases our weakness— Stanley's error in dividing his Expedition— The post of com- CONTENTS. ix maxider — Departure of Stanley — King Chua does not forget us — Horrible butcher.y at Kibiro — The arrogance of King Chua does not alter — He knows of our precarious condition — Minds are agitated — A complaint is made to Stanley — Consequent anger and indignation — Measures of excessive rigour — I cannot succeed in restraining Emin's hand — Jephson incredulous as to my experience and knowledge — The fruit of four years' work and observation — Faithful to the Pasha — Advice that I gave Emin. Pp. 154—170 CHAPTER X. emin's arrest. An old slave of the Baggara — Beginning of the rebellion — A despot and a drunkard — Captain Fatelmula — The Pasha at Dufile — Opposition of the soldiers of Kirri — Insult to the Governor — The station of Muggi and AbdaUah Menze — Threatening attitude of the soldiers at Lahore — Return to Dufile — Prisoners of the rebels — Ahmed Dinkani — Resignation of Emin — I hold the knife by the handle — I receive the sad news — I resolve to go to Emin — Conduct of the rebels at Tunguru — The news of Stanley's retmn and its subsequent contradiction — At Wadelai — Agree- ment amongst the Egj ptians — My arrival at Dufile — Permission to remain with Emin — Interview with Emin and Vita Hassan — A sitting of the revolutionary assembly — Surprise prepared by the factions — Dismissal of Emin Pasha — I advise Emin to sign his name — The new Governor — Violence against Major Hav^ashi — Fear of Stanley's return — My sympathy for Emin — Proposed transportation of the prisoners — I oppose the insane proposal — " I'll have him put in chains " — Search of the Governor's house and that of the doctor — Little Ferida — The commander of Msua retires to the mountains — The Mahdists in Rejaf waters — Horrible massacre — The three dervishes and Omar Saleh's letter — Emin's advice — They want war — Imprisonment maintained — Selim Matera and Solyman persuaded by me — Defeat of the troops — Emin and Hassan are enabled to settle at Wadelai— Departure from Dufile . . .Pp. 171—192 CHAPTER XI. CROCODILE HUNTING. Bows and kissing of the hand — The crocodile hunter — The Bari of Bedden —The Dinka's whistling — The clerk Taib — A difficult position must not be attacked openly — Proposed abandonment of Wadelai — Yussuf Fahmi's mother-in-law — At Fagongo — Arrival of the steamer Khedive — Mahdists' discomfiture at Dufile — Injunctions to the Pasha to return to Wadelai — Emin's refusal — Major Selim Matera's letter — Mahdist dollars — Evacua- tion of Dufile — Captain Solyman — His death — Emin's fears — I do not agree with him — Lieutenant Saleh — Indignant revolutionists — The two factions — Execution of chief Sunga — His corpse on the shore — KoUkio and Katto — King Chua madly enraged — A slaughtered child — A black bullock and a girl twelve years old — The Lur of the mountain — Boki is dead — z CONTENTS. Funeral ceremonies— Proclamation of the successor— Kaids of the Unyoro — Emin an ornithologist — Jephson a hunter — Emin will not leave i Tunguru— Stanley's return— His letter to Jephson— Emin left to himself— Jephson and Emin write to the chief of the troops at Wadelai— Jephson's departure — I advise Emin to take time — What an imprudence would cost us. Pp. 19?.— 217 I CHAPTER XII. Stanley's manifesto. News of the arrival of Stanley— Departure from Wadelai — Nomination of a commission to be sent to the head of the Expedition— Refusal of Emin Pasha— New perils— The means of avoiding them — Proposal accepted by Emin — The opinion of the officers of the Province asked— Departure ' for Msua — New intrigues — Emin concedes a pardon and amnesty — j Selim Bey — The voyage to Were— Osman Latif — His equivocal conduct — He throws himself into the river — " You should have left this carrion to be drowned ! " — Always the same — Counsels given to Emin — Emin shares my opinion — Emin goes to Stanley's camp — William Bonny — Danger of being assailed by the troops of the King of Unyoro — Bonny sent " not to fight, but to bring over the luggage" — Return of Emin to Were — ' Colonel Fatelmula and his menaces — Impression of the officers after their visit to Stanley — Letter from Stanley to the officers at Wadelai — Advice given to Emin — Difficulties of the situation — Flight of soldiers and servants — Departure of Vita Hassan — The road from Were to Buguera — ' Arrival at the encampment of tlie Relief Expedition . . Pp. 218—230 CHAPTER XIII. DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION. Waterparting between the Aruwimi and the Albert Lake — The plateau of Buguera — Flora and fauna — The chimpanzee — Catching with nets — Drunk in the trap — A chimpanzee drummer — The Walegga, Wahuma, and Yavra — The Mount Virika — The camp of Buguera — Service of the camp — Trans- ports from Were— Refusal of the Zanzibaris — Stanley Btdamatari — His character — Robbers rewarded — The departure is fixed — Even Captain Fatelmula wishes to go to Egypt — Conversation with Stanley — The officers complain — The Koran peeps out — Samadia — How to cure headache — A letter of recommendation to a Wahuma — The torture of the tabatt — Bismillah il Bahman — Mnal evacuation of the camp of Were — Stanley's fears — Emin's hesitation — The 5th of April — "I leave you to God" — The assembly — " As sure as my name is Stanley — Rigorous watch — Those who leave — Omar the Shillook — Well-distributed bastinado — Abandon- ment and burning of the camp of Buguera— The river Taraia — Mpinga and Mazamboni — Flight of sixty-nine soldiers and servants — Council of inquiry— Mild sentence — Necessity of procuring porters — Stanley seriously .1 CONTENTS. xi ill — Fever and rheumatism — A furious hurricane — Chests of ammunition buried — Flight of servants — Arrest of Rehan — Summary judgment — The body thrown among grass Pp. 231 — 257 CHAPTER XIV. THE VIRIKA MOUNTAINS. Marching order of the caravan — Toil — Diseases — Hard treatment — Slighted complaints — The little Amina — Departure from Niangabo — At Joddo — Selim Bey's letter — The reply — At Buhogo — The attack of King Chua's hanassura — The brave Oakil killed on the battle-field — Unlucky youth ! — His tomb — The land before us — Western route — The study of the White Mountains — The Semliki river — Crossing of the stream — The Wamba country — The Bassua — At the foot of the Virika — Sanitary conditions of the caravan — Clerk Wassif — A horrible thing to relate — Fighting the Manyema — Lieutenant Stairs's exploration — Karalla, a servant, killed by the Vakongio with their lances — New \ ictims — Stanley arms the servants to guard the caravan — Discontent augments — Exit from the forest — The Usongora — The sun shines on the Virika peaks — Lake Ruitan — The salt lake — King Chua's power — Salt trade — At Amkongo — Attack by the soldiers of the King of Unyoro — Return to Unyampaka — Moral and material conditions of the caravan — Abundance of food — Routes from Unyampaka — Selection of the route through Nkole Pp. 258 — 271 CHAPTER XV. FROM LAKE RUITAN TO LAKE VICTORIA. The Nkole State — Conformation of the region — Wahuma and Wichinesi — King Ntali — A shepherd, not a king — Fear of strangers — " I will not flee, but wait for you " — Negotiations started in Unyoro — Hospitality granted to Uganda Christians — Mtesa driven away — Slaughters — Either circumcision or death — Karema — Persecutions against Christians — Muanza christened at the French Mission — A difficult path — The Mpogo swamp — The king's concessions to the caravan — Disorderly conduct of soldiers and Zanzibaris at Ruganda — Fight to rescue a woman — The king's son \'isits the camp — Murder of a Manyema and of a woman — The river Kagera — A girl carried away by a leopard— The mineral waters of Ntagata — Karagua's country- King Nd^gora a vassal of the King ^of Uganda — Carried in a hammock — Death by cold on the way to Batenga — The Urigi Lake — Fatelmula, a soldier, abandoned to the Mtara people's revenge — His horrible death — Requisitions end — Provisions are bought — Fatal effects of manioc — An Akka's flight — The Victoria Lake — At the British Mission — Mackay. Pp. 272—287 xii CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVI. ARRIVAL AT BAGAMOYO. David Liviugslone and slavery — Humanity is one and the same everywhere — Explorers and missionaries — Robbers of men in Egyjjt and Zanzibar — The war in Africa — Europe intervenes — Persecution of the missionaries — Sup- pression of the slave treaty — The words of Cameron — The means must be adequate to the end- — Want of news — Stanley decides on departing — Arrangements for the journey — The districts of Urima and Boniera — Attack by Negroes in the district ot Keha — Four days of hostilities — General flight of the natives — Atrocity committed by a Soudanese porter — Adansonia digitata — The chief Mitinginya — The Wanyamuesi — Evil school of the Arabs — The tendie — The Masai — Theft of three asses — -A Masai saved from deserved punishment — Fauna and flora — The chief Icongo — The Fathers Giraud and Schynse — The forest of sorrows — The river of palms — The cisterns of Makomero — We leave the forest — A remembrance of the caravan for the Wanyamuesi — We set foot in Ugogo — Mualata — The Wagogo — The temhe of Ugogo — bands and desolation — The chief Nianguira — A foolish pretext — Robbery of guns — The caravan at Unyamuesi — Letters from Wissmann to Emin — The village of Mussanga — The forest of Jonyo or of the salt water — A well-merited punishment — At Mpwapwa — Usagara — A lovely region — Atj Mrogoro — The French missionaries — Captain Graven reuth — At Kiugaui — The explorer of the Cassai — At Bagamoyo — Accident to Emin— The return Pp. 288—313 APPENDIX. Metboeological Observations in Unyoeo . Pp. 313 — 334 INDEX TO Volume II. Pp. 335—350 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS— VOLUME II. SEPARATE FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. Printed in Colours, Tints, and Black and White. TO FACE PLATE PAGE I. Landscape in Central Africa .... [Frontispiece) II. Daily Greetings to King Chua by his Kinsmen . . . .18 III. View of a Village in Unyoro 28 IV. A Village of Shooli, at the Foot of Mount Shooa . . .44 V. Execution by Three Blows with Clubs 52 VI. Milk Ceremony 54 VII. Burial of King Kamrasi 59 VIII. King Chua's Fattened Females 71 IX. Emin Shells the Canoes of King Chua's Warriors . . .72 X. Musicians of Rionga, one of the Chiefs of Unyoro . . .82 XI. Transport of King Chua's Canoes ...... 87 XII. Casati with his Servants ........ 93 XIII. Mass of Gneiss Eock on Mount Logwek ..... 125 XIV. Eejaf, with Mount Logwek 128 XV. Wooded Scenery of the Nile near Kirri ..... 132 XVI. The Murchison Falls near Shooa-Moru 136 XVII. The First Meeting of Emin with Stanley 158 XVIII. The Egyptian Station at Kirri • . 173 XIX. A Bari Village 196 XX. Casati, with his Negro Child, Vita Hassan, and Dr. Junker , 229 XXI. An Ape Paradise 232 XXII. Negroes warming themselves by the Fire 255 XXIII. Execution of a Deserter 257 XXIV. A Negress of the Caravan carried away by a Leopard . . 281 XXV. Casati 111 on the Return 282 XXVI. A Slave Caravan 290 XXVII. Warriors of the Urima District 294 XXVIII. African Women of Various Tribes 298 XXIX. The Banquet at Bagamoyo 313 xiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE General Gordon 7 General Gordon's Head 13 Attending Chua.'s Sick Cattle 19 " We are thirsting for Blood " 30 A Human Sacrifice 34 Shooli Warriors 37 A Shooli Family 39 A Shooli Chief 42 A Shooli Chief 43 Shooli Vessels and Ornaments 46 An Unyoro Princess ........... 54 Musical Instruments of the Shooli 58 Flight of King Chna 75 My Negotiations with the Chiefs of Uganda 78 Casati bound to a Tree 103 King Chua's Kelatives in Court Attire 106 I am dragged along b"y the Guards 110 View of the Banks south of Fola 131 Landscape near the Albert Lake . . . . . .135 A Shooli Girl 143 Major Hawashi Efi'eudi 151 Emin and the Mutineer.-* 175 Bari Women 195 Facsimile of Selim Matera's Letter 202 Ditto ditto 203 Coins of the Mahdi 205 Osman Latif 222 Little Amina 261 Fording the Mpogo Swamp 276 A Woman stolen 278 Ntali's Present to Stanley 279 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xv PAGE Distribution of Goods 285 Negro of Urima 293 Attack on the Caravan 295 Village of Ugogo 305 Delivery of a Letter to Emin 307 Lieutenant Rochus Schmidt 309 Meeting with Major Wissmann 311 Bagamoyo, where Emin's Accident occurred 312 MAP FOR VOLUME II. Map of the Rettjen Journey feom the Albebt Nyanza TO THE Indian Ocean. TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. CHAPTER I. THE FALL OF KHARTOUM. The carpenter of Dongola — May 1884 — A life of penance — The standard of rebellion unfurled — Causes of disaffection in the Egyptian Soudan — The slave trade — Raouf Pasha and his measures — A Babylonian banquet — Abd-el-Kader Pasha — Defeat of the troops — Wise measures of the Governor — General Hicks' expedition — Ti sehil Allah — Trophies of human skulls — Osman Digna, chief of the dervishes — Plans concocted in Cairo — General Gordon — His mission — His intentions — Prestige of his name— Battle of El-Teb — Fall of Sinkat — Surrender of Tokar — General Graham — Abandon- ment of the campaign in the Eastern Provinces — Tactics ; difficulties aris- ing from the nature of the soil, from the climate and temperament of the enemy — Gordon cannot leave Khartoum — Relief expedition under the command of General Wolseley — Bombardment of Berber — Death of Colonel Stewart — Faulty division of the forces — The Mahdi's exertions — Wilson before Khartoum — The catastrophe — The soldier vrithout fear and without reproach — The Geddal of the Mohammedans. " Merciful God has put the sword of victoiy into my hands ; and to prove to the world that I am the Mahdi, He has marked my left cheek w4th a mole. In the confusion of battle, I shall be led by the luminous standard of Azrael, the angel of death, the exterminator of my enemies." With these words the carpenter of Dongola, the hermit of the island of Abba, Mohammed Ahmed, an- nounced to the world his divine mission to propagate Islamism and to found the reign of happiness and justice. In May 1881 the attention of the Egyptian Govern- VOL. II. A 2 TEN YEAES IN EQUATORIA. ment was turned to Mohammed Ahmed. Until then they had been pacified by the illusion that it was a passing bubble of fanaticism and religious commotion, which is often seen in the East, and, as such, easy to master and extinmiish ; but a warlike challenij-e of this description had to be met very diflferently. On the anniversary of the Feast of Ramadan, the lean and squalid apostle who had spent a life of penance in the midst of privations and fastings, con- firmed his mission, by baffling, sword in hand, all the efforts made to capture him, thus corroborating his claim to supposed sanctitv. Abu Saoud was defeated, and Rashid Bey, who attempted to check the triumphant march of the Mahdi, fell at the head of his troops, who were horribly slaughtered. The Mahdi unfurled the standard of rebellion at Jebel Kadar, in the Bagfo^ara reofion. The causes of disaffection in the Soudan were numerous : the venality that prevailed in the appoint- ment of functionaries, the unjust and oppressive manner in which the taxes were levied, and the pre- ference accorded to the Egyptian element, fostered a silent but slow agitation, ready to become an open revolt against the brutality of the conquest and the hated oppression of the Egyptian Government. The suppression of the slave trade had dried up the source of gain and spread misery through the country without producing any beneficial result. It \vas still further increased by heavy taxes. The feeling of hatred grew stronger every day, and the following precept from the Koran was echoed in the heart of all believers : " Kill those who wish to kill you. Kill them wherever you meet them ; drive them away from the place whence they would drive you, for the temptation of idolatry is worse than death." THE MAHDI'S VICTORIES. 3 Folly, nay, madness, hastened the bursting of the tempest. The Governor, Raouf Pasha, by a stroke of his pen had destroyed General Gordon's heroic and intelligent work. The dismissal of Soudanese employes and their substitution by Egyptians ; reduction of the number of officers in the regular army ; excessive economy in all public offices ; further imposition of taxes, and the sending of a considerable sum of money to Cairo, were the beg-inuino-s of his rule at Khartoum. He was supposed to have propped up the crumbling edifice, and his ears were delighted by the songs of praise sung by the native poets in the midst of revels and concerts which were held in his honour ; and when at last the cry of defiance and death roused his dull mind, the hand of fate had already written the Biblical words on the wall of the banquet-hall. Raouf was succeeded by Abd-el-Kader Pasha (August 11). The rebellion was at its height, and the situation was rendered worse by the pompous and fallacious assertions which had been sent to Cairo by Giegler Pasha and also by the inefficiency of the measures taken by him. On June 7, Yussuf Pasha's corps was surprised in a thick wood near Mount Kadar, and completely annihi- lated. The Mahdi, strengthened by the prestige of his victories, sent an expedition to Sennaar, through the ford of Abu Zeir, took possession of the north-west bank of the Nile, and occupied Kordofan. Abd-el-Kader began the campaign with some suc- cess ; he reorganised his troops ; retook El-Obeid ; liberated Sennaar from the hordes infesting it ; and defeated the Mahdists at Duemme and Dara. Moham- med Ahmed again fell upon El-Obeid with great fury, cruelly slaughtered the garrison and inhabitants, took it, and settled there, making it the base of his future 4 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. operations. The treason and defection of the chiefs had facilitated the victory. The Mahdi had won the sympathy of the people and confirmed the divine nature of his mission by deeds. Then the battle of Tel-el- Kebir occurred, which brought British protection into Egypt. Colonel Stewart was sent to Khartoum to ascertain the causes of the rebellion and to suofofest remedies, and was assisted in the work by Colonel Messedaglia, late Governor of Darfur, under Gordon. The reorganisation of the army, plans for the campaign, the preparations necessary to carry them out, were discussed and settled with the full consent of the Governor-General ; and the negotiations entered into with the natives led to a political success. The battles of Mahatuk and Meshra- el-Dahi, and the victory of Segadi soon promised the near repression of the insurrection in the Eastern Provinces. But Abd-el-Kader was abruptly recalled to Cairo and Ala-el-Din Pasha appointed in his stead. General Hicks was entrusted with the continuation of the campaign in the Soudan, and he defeated the insur- gents twice ; but, ignoring Abd-el-Kader"s plan of cam- paign, and the wise counsels of Colonel Stewart, he directed his entire attention towards the reconquest of Kordofan. He rejected the plan of operation upon Omdurman towards Dara, supported by Messedaglia with sound military arguments, and resolved to operate upon El-Obeid and along the valley of Abu-Hableh, which lies between narrow passes continually dominated by higher grounds. The expeditionary force, consisting of 11,000 men, 500 horses, and 5500 camels, departed fi-om Khartoum, September 9, and in twelve days arrived at Duemme, after having suftered the loss of a great many men and animals through the difficulties of the road and climate. DEFEAT OF GENERAL HICKS. 5 The march was continued in two columns, one pro- ceeding by the main route and the other, under Ala-el- Din Pasha towards Melbes. Near Alloba, a detach- ment of Mahdists was defeated. On November 2, General Hicks was suddenly assailed whilst crossing a woody region (three hours' journey in length), but defeated the rebels, who were compelled to withdraw in consequence of the resistance of the solid square of men. The want of water, however, compelled the General to hasten his march, but, Nov. 4, both columns were surrounded, in the valley of Kashgil, by a force of about 100,000 armed men, who cursed and derided them from the neighbouring' heights with the cry Ti sehil Allah, the fatal invocation which preceded extermination. Every effort was vain ; heroism was powerless in presence of the iron wall which barred every route. On the afternoon of the 7th, the attack was general and furious, till at last it became a horrid butchery, and not a battle. All the soldiers and the Generals themselves (Hicks and Ala-el-Din) were put to the edge of the sword. Mohammed Ahmed gathered the heads of his fallen enemies into heaps, as trophies of war, and then retired to El Obeid, forget- ting, in the ecstasies of religious ceremonies, to turn his victory to further advantage. The news reached Khartoum, Nov. 19, and caused general alarm. Divided counsels led to the wildest resolutions. The Prophet's cause was really believed to be protected by God. The insurrection gained ground, and the quietest tribes declared themselves in favour of the Mahdi. Even in the Eastern Soudan fortune smiled on the rebels ; the Hadendowa, who had rebelled at the instigation of Osman Digna in the preceding August, seriously injured Captain Moncrief s column in the neighbourhood of Tokar, and, Dec. 10, 6 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. they drove away the Egyptian troops, under Hassan Bey, who had been sent to reheve Sinkat. Baker Pasha then took the command at Suakim. Ill Egypt, the situation of* the Soudan Provinces was considered hopeless. IiiabiHty to subdue so formidable a rebellion was obvious. The British Government advised, and the Khedive accepted the proposal to withdraw all Egyptian functionaries and soldiers from the Soudan, as well as all the individuals who were directly connected with their Government, and the Christians of various nationalities. Heroic advice indeed, without even the probability of success ! The exodus of 60,000 persons ujion a long journey, through a poor country in a state of rebellion, with insufficient means of transport and defence, would only have hastened the final catastrophe. General Gordon was appointed to carry out this difficult undertakino-. The man of genius, with a generous heart and firm faith, the apostle of redemp- tion, the soldier of mystical aspiration, with the sword in one hand, and the Bible in the other. The libera- tion of slaves and the defeat of God s enemies were first in his thoughts, and he willingly devoted his life to the holy enterprise, smiling in the midst of danger, heedless of the morrow. To evacuate the Soudan seemed to him a manifest act of cowardice, and he showed bv his ffi-st acts that he meant to establish a native Government. At Berber, he proclaimed the independence of the Soudan, and handed over the administration of Kor- dofan to the Mahdi, remitting all unpaid taxes and suspending the law about the repression of slavery. He reached Khartoum, February 18, 1884. With his knowledge of military engineering he completed the defensive works of the fortress, superintended the GENERAL GORDON. 7 reorganisation of the troops, and took measures for the supply of provisions. He took Colonel Stewart as his collaborator. The prestige of his name paralysed the action of the rebels. Mohanuned Ahmed dared not fight openly before he had strengthened his position by secret activity. His complete inaction during February, March, and GENERAL GORDON. April, inspired Gordon with hope ; he thought his triumph was predestined. Excessive confidence in his own providential missions increased the fervour of his resistance, and encouraged him to give up all idea of evacuating the Soudan. But in the neighbourhood of Suakim the situation was going from bad to worse. All Baker's attempts to relieve the beleaguered garrisons of Tokar and Sinkat not only failed, but resulted disastrously. Here is an 8 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. account of the battle of El-Teb, in the words of Colonel Messedaglia, who was present at it : — " The expeditionary corps was composed of 3500 men, the remainder having been left behind at Suakim and Trinkitat, to garrison those places. They had four Krupps, two machine, and two siege guns. But these were difficult to carry on account of the salt pools, which, though open to attack, it was necessary to cross for about two miles from the sea, in order to gain the interior ; it was therefore resolved to construct a small fort south-west of the pools, in order to protect the passage of the ordnance. " On the morning of February 4, the troops had hardly drawn up in marching order, when it began to ram heavily, and the air became so dense that it obscured everything. Eight hundred horsemen formed the van- guard, including the scouts ; then came the artillery, together with the main body, the camels protected by the flanking companies, and then the rearguard. After about four hours' march, the rebels began to show themselves laterally in gi'oups of forty or fifty, we fired four cannon shots at them ; the fog becoming thicker and thicker. " In the neighbourhood of the wells of El-Teb, about 300 rebels suddenly appeared on our left flank, and, soon after, another band came upon our right, which compelled Baker to fall back, at the trot, upon the main body. The noise of the fusillade, to which our troops were unaccustomed, and the hurried retreat of the stari", together with the vanguard, caused a panic in the expeditionary corps, which (as the enemy were between the vanguard and the main body) was in- creased by our soldiers firing upon one another ; the camels added to the confusion. We had fallen into a clever ambuscade. The rebels had dug rifle pits along BATTLE OF EL-TEB. 9 the side of the road, each of which was occupied by four or five men, who had covered themselves with leaves and branches of trees, and in consequence of the fog, the vanguard had marched past without observing them." It was impossible to form squares ; a hand-to-hand fight took place round the wells; numbers prevailed over valour, and Baker with difticulty succeeded in reaching^ Suakim with a few followers. On February 11, Sinkat fell into the hands of Osman Digna. The brave garrison tried to break the ring formed round them by the enemy, but failed, and all fell. The garrison of Tokar, impressed by the terrible event, soon after surrendered to the vic- torious rebels. The relief corps under General Graham formed to collect the Egyptian troops in the territory of Suakim, and for operating eventually in the interior of the country, numbering 5000 soldiers with the transport service, disembarked there, February 21, The General marched to Tokar without delay, taking the route j^i'^viously followed by Baker ; and at El-Teb inflicted a memorable defeat upon Osman Digna, killing 2300 of his men. But Osman Digna, being reinforced by the fanatical dervishes who were accompanied by a large number of natives, attempted a bold and sudden attack upon the strong fort at Suakim, but was checked at Tamai, with heavy loss. The British, although victors, did not feel strong enough to proceed to Sinkat, and the campaign was thus closed. The opening of the road to the Nile, via Suakim and Berber, being considered impossible the British Corps returned to Suez. The war and its development in several combats as well as in other insurrectionary events, clearly showed how improper it was to resort to the strategy of 10 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. regular armies when a fanatical attack is to be con- tended with ; and that, on the contrary, considering the superiority of the weapons of a regular army, the dis- cipline of its soldiers and the confidence which accrues from their military training, quick tactics are advisable. Slow movements encourage rebellious bodies, whose numbers increase from day to day, and their defeat, for this very reason, becomes more difficult ; therefore, it is indispensable to attack first and promptly, and, of course, with all the energy necessary. In cases of this description, tlie charge of such an enemy is more like one of cavalry than an attack of infantry, and the change from defence to attack is often the cause of irreparable disaster. The tactical formations resorted to in fiohts with an irreg-ular armv must be such as to develop an extensive line of fire without interfering with the compactness required to resist a charge. One cannot precisely give any rule for attacking an enemy with the main force ; one must be guided by the enemy's mode of fighting, his moral strength, and his arms. The square presents indisputable tactical defects ; to utilise it thoroughly, small reserves should be provided, ready to rush to the succour of any salient points menaced. Therefore, in presence of frequent and unexpected attacks from agile and dexterous assailants, it is always preferable to sacrifice mobility, rather than to run the risk of an immediate and irreparable disaster. The muscular vigour of such men facilitates the rapidity of their attack, therefore ground, easy of access, is less favourable for sustainino- the shock of a charo-e, and for & o - preparing counter attacks. The habitual tendency of cavalry to follow up a charge always generates an injurious confusion, which it is difficult to remedy, and which often results in a medley. The arms of cavalry soldiers should be composed of lance and LORD WOLSELEY'S EXPEDITION. 11 sword ; the first being indispensable in the charges, the second in fiofhtinof hand to hand. But in these coun- tries, in face of such enemies, in the heart of a general insurrection, the greatest peril is surprise on the march and sudden attacks. Hence, the most important maxim to follow is, diligent preparation against sur- prise, an active, bold, incessant and intelligent service of scouts, and concentration of forces, as their separa- tion is always a cause of disaster. The opportunitv of a successful evacuation of the Soudan had been missed by General Gordon, and he was hemmed in on all sides. The British Government had submitted to the sad necessity of giving him up, but public opinion and the press demanded the pre- paration of an expedition to relieve him, and Mr. Gladstone yielded to the wish of the nation. An expedition was then fitted out, the best route discussed, and, after a lengthy discussion, it was agreed to send a body of troops by way of the Nile, under the command of General Wolseley. The concentration of troops was effected in September. In November the General was at Dongola, and, December 16, head- quarters were transferred to Korti. Meanwhile Gordon, being informed of the succour sent to him, despatched a flotilla, under the command of Colonel Stewart, in order to facilitate operations on the Nile. Stewart repulsed the rebels' attacks, shelled and de- stroyed Berber, and steamed off towards Dongola with only one vessel, sending the others back to Khartoum. But, having reached the Cataract of Merawe, the strong current and an awkward manoeuvre hurled the vessel in a wrong direction, and it was wrecked upon the rocks. Colonel Stewart, the French Consul, and the crew were slaughtered by the Arabs of Monasir. The year 1885 opened in the midst of great diffi- 12 TEN YEARS IX EQUATOKIA. culties. The concentration of troops had not proceeded with the rapidity expected. The necessity of hastening the march suggested the idea of dividing the forces. The nature of the sandy plains caused many obstacles, the liostility of the natives great fatigue and delay. General Sir Herbert Stewart took the road to Metemmeh, and General Earle the one to Berber. But the Mahdi had not been inactive ; he knew that the prestige of his name and the triumph of his cause were on a decisive trial. He reinforced Berber and entrusted it to the care of Nur Angara, a man of great courage and energy, already known for his ribaldry in Darfur. Metemmeh was fortified and garrisoned by numerous troops, Kassala beleaguered, and the Mahdi himself directed the sieofe of Khartoum. He knew that he could concentrate his efforts on the Nile, and that there was nothing- to fear on the Eastern Nile, as he was protected by Osman Digna and his faithful Dervishes. The British defeated the enemy at Abu-Klea, January 17, 1885, but were checked at Metemmeh, and were obliged to entrench themselves at Gubat. Time pressed, and every delay might have proved fatal. Two steamers were sent up the Nile, under the command of Colonel Wilson, and on the 28th thev were in sight of Khartoum, and were received with a brisk discharge of musketry and artillery. The town had fallen into the hands of the Mahdi, Mohammed Ahmed, and Wilson was compelled to steam back. His two steamers were wrecked upon the rocks, and he reached the British camp under great difficulties, the bearer of the sad news. On Jaimary 26, Khartoum was startled by the sudden clashing of arms, heart-rending cries, people DEATH OF GORDON. 13 fleeing, and disorder on all sides. The square by the river side, where the Governor's palace stood, re-echoed with insulting fanatical howling. The rebels demanded Gordon, whom they called the enemy of God : threats were followed by deeds of violence, shots were fired, attempts made to open the gates ; murders were com- mitted, and, in short, it was a scene of hell. Treason was reaping its infamous reward, and the soldier with- GEXKKAL Gordon's head. out fear and without reproach was the victim of it, abominably sold by the very men whom his large heart had loaded with benefits. The palace gate was opened, and a man presented himself wearing the noble uniform of a soldier, with the sword by his side and a glittering array of decorations on his breast. That man was Gordon. With his arms folded, he stopped a few steps from the gate, calmly raising his head, with a serene and placid countenance. The majesty of the hero im- 14 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. pressed even his bloodthirsty enemies, and silence pre- vailed, but it was the last token of respect received by the noble martyr from the rebels. A shot was suddenly fired, and Gordon, hit on the forehead, fell as if struck by lightning. His head was cut off, stuck on a pole, and placed at the entrance of Mohammed Ahmed's tent ; his body was thrown into the Nile. A dreadful massacre filled the unhappy town with horror for several days. The Mahdi had triumphed ; an undeniable proof of his sanctity ; the herald of his victory, the Geddal, the Antichrist of the Mohammedans, had been con- quered and was dead. The kingdom of justice and happiness was about to begin. ( 15 ) CHAPTER II. LIFE IN UNYOKO. Hostilities cease— The matamure — The king shows himself — Waganda and Wanyoro— lluanga and Kabba Rega — King Chua (Kabba Kega) — He re- members his friend Emin — Juaya — His royal palace — The morning greeting of king anil people — The king's favourite occupation — " Thou art a shep- herd" — Simulated piety and manifest avarice — His sons brought up by shepherds — No profane eye is to rest on the king's cows — The milkers — Reception at an audience — Object of my mission — The good Kategora — Covetous intentions of the king — I speak with the king — Occupation of Tunguru and Msua — Arrival of Biri — The king yields — Hopes reposed in Biri — Kategora poisoned — " He dies, he dies ! " — Abd Rehman made proud — Vexations — Kisa and Gumangi — Emin believes in Kabba Rega's loyalty — The soldiers of Equatoria — Emin loses a good opportunity — The Shooli rebels defeated and subdued — Pantomime of the Lango — " We are thirst- ing for blood " — The dead fowl — The throne in danger — The queen-mother, a priestess and magician — The ceremony of the mpango — Kisa of Muenghe — Rejoicings and dancing — Burning of Juaya — A heap of ashes. The sounds of war are hushed, the enemy has left the country ; the timid Wanyoro return from the caves and woods, to which they had fled at the first rumour of war, to their villages and fields, and with dis- couraged eyes contemplate at every step the horrors of devastation by fire and rapine, perpetrated by the furious enemies who had overthrown their country. They anxiously seek for their hidden matamure (granaries), but the magic power of their adversaries (as they believe) has discovered and emptied them. The spectre of inevitable famine overshadows the countrv, and slaughter adds to it the contaofious small- pox ; for the miserable dead, according to their custom, lie unburied amongst the grass that borders IG TEX YEARS IN EQUATORIA. the roads, shamefully covered with dirty rags. But the king has shown himself ; he has emerged from the hiding-place that has protected him during the war. He promises to take vengeance for his injured country and to triumph over her enemies. Meantime he invites his people to return to the works of peace. Labour is resumed with fervour. Huts rise, villages are erected, men plough and sow the land ; the herds return to their former pastures, the natives take up the thread of interrupted trade. Waganda and Wanyoro ! Two peoples who have a common orifiin, lano-uag-e, and customs. Muang^a and Kabba Reo-a, their kinos are of the same lineagfe, both powerful and equally ambitious and cruel. Muanffa, son and successor of Mtesa, a youngf man with a hard heart and warped mind, made it his study to destroy the little good that his father had done. The first thing he did was to reject the counsels of the old ministers, and to place foolish and badly disposed men in the chief offices. After having caused Bishop Hanning-ton to be assas- sinated, he began a j)ersecution of the neophytes of the English Church and condemned them to death by hundreds. He ill-treated the missionaries themselves, and soon after made them practically prisoners. He then madly entered into a war with the King of Unyoro, thus increasing the misery and desolation of the country. A despotic monarch, cruel, and of vile habits, the enemy of all good, and hostile to foreigners, he did not hesitate to commit any enormit}'. Chua, kino- of Unvoro (commonlv known bv the name of Kabba Rega), a bitter enemy of the Egj-ptian Government, for years and years kept the northern entrance of his kingdom closed, and, aflfairs in the Soudan having gone from bad to worse, he suddenly KING CHUA. 17 remembered Dr. Emin Effendi, who once visited him, and who was Governor of Equatoria. He did not remember this " friend," as he now called him, when he was receivinof and favouring- deserters from the Egyptian Provinces ; but .... ivory was in abun- dance in the neighbouring station of Wadelai, and muskets and ammunition were in the hands of those soldiers, to whom every way of escape was closed. Chua is a negro, cowardly, suspicious, a procrasti- nator, and of an irresolute spirit ; narrow-minded, false in speech, and ever yielding to evil influences — a real compound of malice and cowardice. Superstition and fear of the evil eye are strong in him, as in all the blacks ; but if he perceives that any course of action ma}^ be useful to him, he alters his mind, gives up his belief, and takes any road that is presented to him. The spirit of the dead Kajnrasi had guided him in the choice of the site of his new residence, and, faithful to the religion of his ancestors, he had settled at Juaya, predestined to be the capital of his kingdom. The royal mansion is entered by seven doors, each of which is reserved for a special caste of persons ; among these are the door for the inhabitants of the district ; for the Magnoro ; for the Wahuma shepherds ; the door for visitors from other countries resident in the realm ; and lastly the door for the mpango, specially used by the Mahitu or the members of the royal family. It is in this section of the palace ■ — the largest and most sumptuous — that human sacri- fices are prepared. Every day at sunrise it is customary for the king, attired in a traditional habit, head and feet bare, covered with a large mhugu (kind of toga) fastened with a knot on his left shoulder, to receive compli- VOL. n. B 18 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. ments and felicitations from his relations, amidst the blare of trumpets and the beating of drums. And the people cheer and bow to him before going to their daily work ; calling him a Sovereign, absolute and potent, beneficent father, dispenser of every good, the jealous guardian of the rights of the State. King Chua's favourite occupation, which absorbed the greater part of his day and consoled him when his heart was afflicted by the duties and cares (not always pleasant) of the kingdom, was the administration of the numerous dairy farms in his possession. In the hall of the Wahuma he listened to reports upon the sanitary condition of his numerous cows, and the need of various reforms ; he dispensed orders and prescriptions for sick animals, arranged for gifts and sales, and was prodigal of praises. He passed summary and severe sentences, which were often capricious. " Thou art a shepherd, I am a warrior," said his brother, Kabamiro, to him (at the time when his father being dead, the country was agitated as to his succes- sor), " leave the care and afiairs of the kingdom to me, and I will give you all the flocks and herds." But Chua wished for both herds and throne, and trafficked with Solyman Dand, the slave dealer, against his brother's life ; Kabamiro fell, and the detestable monarch, attitudinising with a simulated pity, refused to pay the price of the horrid compact. Chua (the son of a Wahuma woman) has a special love for cattle breeding ; he possesses 150,000 large cattle, the result of continual raids into the regions of Lake Ruitan, and to the preservation of them he gives diliofent care. His sons received their first traininof from the shepherds, wearing the traditional Wahuma costume, the skin of a calf finely dressed hanging from their backs like a small mantle. I 1 I 1 ( I I ( KING CHUA'S CATTLE. 19 !No profane eye must gaze upon the beloved cattle, and when their presence in the road is announced by loud cries, those who are there must either fly or turn their backs on the sacred train. The milk is collected by special people, who are forbidden to look at it, and it is carefully covered when, sent or brouo-ht to the kind's dwelling-. A milker suspected of bewitching the royal milk was beaten to ATTEXDIXG CHUa's SKK CATTLE. death, without any form of trial. The distribution of it is made according to rules established by the king, who assigns the quantities for his sons and wives. His mother has her own dairies, over which she presides with an enthusiasm equal to her son's. At the gate, looking upon a large open space, where the people usually assemble, he gives public audience, encourages his warriors, pronounces sentences, and dis- tributes alms, though sparingly. 20 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. The 2nd of June, 1886, I was publicly received by the king. He wore a dress of elegant woollen cloth, finely worked and ornamented ; his head was covered with a red tarboosh, according to the Arab custom. He sat upon a large seat, placing his august feet upon a very beautiful leopard skin. He was of colossal form, of gigantic stature, with a full and expressive face, and a smile more sarcastic than amiable. Readv of speech, correct in gesture, Chua awoke a sentiment of sympathy in whoever saw him for the first time. His eldest son sat at his left hand upon a wooden stool placed lower down. The great men of the kingdom formed a circle like a crown, inside the hut, seated on the ground in the Arab style of showing reverence, and covered with fresh papyrus.* Behind the monarch was a silk drapery of Indian manufacture, imported from Zanzibar, and from the rear of this the heads of curious boys occasionally protruded. Six young men of the royal family surrounded the throne, musket in hand. I was seated to the rigfht of the kinof at a few paces from him. The audience was short, but cordial. Wishing to profit by the good disposition of Chua, I formulated, at the next audience, the demands of the Governor, who had sent me ; they were a free and open road for the transmission of correspondence ; the speedy conclusion of peace with Uganda, to obtain which object I induced the Governor to enforce the payment of the tribute ; power of obtaining goods from Uganda and from the merchants of Unyoro ; a free passage for ofiicials and armed soldiers to Egypt ; alliance with Ntali, in order that we might be able to use the road throuofh the territorv of Nkole, in case of the failure of the neg-otiations with Muangfa ; and the * When the papyrus becomes dry or faded, it is changed. INTENDED TREACHERY OF CHUA. 21 despatch of a representative to Wadelai. But the inveterate hatred that prevailed amongst the Wanyoro since Baker made his armed appearance there, kept the kino-'s mind in a state of doubt and uncertaintv. The good old minister, Kategora, tried to explain our pacific intentions to him, but the military party, led by a man named Abd Rehman, a Zanzibari, was in a state of agitation, and concocted shameful plots against us. The king consented to the transit of correspondence, but, at the same time, kept back letters coming from Uganda. He granted permission for the passage of the troops, providing that they were sent at intervals and in small numbers. He stated that negotiations with the King of Nkole were progressing favourably, but at the same time expelled Nguro, the latter's representative, and sent an envoy to Wadelai with friendly messages and promises to his " friend the doctor," as he called the Governor. The fears I expressed when dissuading Emin from taking the road to the South and forming a friendship with Kabba Bega, were confirmed only too soon ; it became necessary to frustrate his wicked projects, and to overcome our deceitful enemy by prudence and watchfulness. I entered into arrangements with some Zanzibari merchants who were in the country, and by their means I was able to send and receive correspondence from the English Missions in Uganda. In this manner it came to my knowledge that Mohammed Biri had left Uganda with goods, but had been prevented from enter- ing Unyoro by order of Kabba Rega, and that the king had made proposals to Muanga to unite with him in arresting and disarming the troops that would be 22 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. sent through his country in small detachments. " The Governor," said I to Kabba Rega, at an interview on Oct. 10, " has instructed me to tell you that he does not now intend sending any soldiers away, and, instead, he begs you to agree to the other requests that he made you through me." " Why will he not send the soldiers ? Perhaps the road to Khartoum is re-opened," said the king. "I do not know. He wrote thus to me, and I repeat his message to you." " All right," he concluded, with a forced smile. " Therefore," I resumed, " he asks you to allow two military stations to be built on the lake ; one at Tunguru, in the territory of the chief Sunga, and the other at Msua, subject to Kisa." "What do 3^ou want to do on the lake?" he asked, " To concentrate the soldiers from the Northern stations, who are in daily peril of being attacked by the insurofents of Khartoum." " But in this manner you would render yourselves masters of my territory," said Chua. " Quite the contrary ; our stay will be short. We shall leave upon the first favourable opportunity, and you will not only become the master of the countries of the Shooli and Lur, but also of the storehouses, well filled with ivory, u-on, and brass ; the two steamers will shortly be your property, and you will be in a position equal to that of the Waganda, and Cabaca will be inclined to Makama.* And now tell me what point has your treaty of friendship with Ntali reached ? " " A favourable one ; the road by Nkole will soon be opened." * Cabaca is the title by which the king of Uganda is known ; Makama is that given to the King of Unyoro. CONVERSATION WITH CHUA. " But Nguro is gone, sent away (I am told) by you," I said. " That is false. I have every possible interest in the success of this affair. The Arabs will be able to bring me rifles and powder ; very difficult things to obtain at present on the confines of Uganda, in con- sequence of the evil disposition of Muanga." The wicked king spoke falsely, but with rare tact guessed at matters in his own interest. " Well, do not trouble yourself about us. For •our interests, the Uganda road suffices ; and that you have generously conceded to us. But why do not the messengers arrive ? It appears to me im- possible that Mackay should not be interested in our favour, after the promises and assurances given by him to us." "It is that rascal of a Muanga who has put obstacles in the way of the departure of the messengers. But have the Arabs never delivered letters or brought you any news ? " ' ' No. Without your permission I would not ven- ture to avail myself of their services. We need not resort to Arabs after having received your word as a king — that is a sufficient guarantee for us." " Yes ; and rely on me. I am the friend of Emin Bey," he said. " Then you will grant my requests ? " " From this instant I will do whatever my friend requires. You may occupy Tunguru and Msua. I will send orders to the chiefs to provide grain for the soldiers who are to be established there." " I have another favour to ask you," I said. " Speak ; I am ready to do all that you wish." " Biri left Uganda two months ago for this place. He is detained on the confines of your kingdom by your 24 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. people. Give orders that he may be allowed to come here," I said. " And how could you know that Biri is at Kudur- maf " I know it." " Who told vou so?" " No one," I replied. " That is not possible." "It is very possible. Listen to me. When Junker left us, he promised the Governor that he would send us our necessary goods by Biri. Therefore, by this- time it is not only probable, but certain, that he must be very near us." " But Biri is sent bv Muang-a to bring trouble inta my kingdom ; he shall never put his foot in it." " You are wrong ; he must come. We are here in consequence of the formal promise that vou have made- us ; we expect that you will completel}^ fulfil it." " It is the merchants that will not admit Biri, and I cannot oppose them. I have too much interest in preserving their friendship," said Chua. "It is that villainous Abd Rehman who will ruin your country by his fatal influence." " I am kinof ; I command, and have no need of any- one to advise me as to what I shall do," he declared. " The truth, I know, wounds you, but you shall not on that account prevent me from speaking it. Emin Bey wishes that Biri should be allowed to enter the country. If you cannot comply he will be obliged to take other means." " And what ? " he asked. " He will write to Said Barghash, to the Egyptian Government, and what will you say then ] " " But by what route can he send his letters if I close my roads ? " ARRIYAL OF BIRI. 25 " By a thousand ways. If he applied to you first,, it would be out of regard to his friend, and not because he was obliged to do so," I replied. " You are more wicked than Baker. It is impossible that Emin would think of such things, unless you sug- gested them to him. It is you who are ruminating on all these new ways of injuring me," he exclaimed. " Be not angry, O king. Emin may have person- ally a great friendship for you, but he is the repre- sentative of the Egyptian Government, and conse- quently, has duties before which his personal will must yield." " And you wish that I, also, should yield ? " "Yes, in your own interest. It is a sincere friend who speaks to you. If I were otherwise, I should overwhelm you with civilities to gain your care and attention." " Biri shall be here to-morrow," he assured me. " And will you let him go to Wadelai the same day?" " I cannot promise. We will see." " Follow my advice. Friendship for friendship. Emin is at Kibiro* expecting him." " After to-morrow he shall go to Kibiro, accompanied by my faithful Monyara." " So be it ; I thank you." Biri came, and on the evening of that day (Oct. 12) he went to Kibiro, where Emin awaited him with a steamer. A few days before, the Governor had written, telling me that to return amongst his people without Bu'i, would be, not only a grief to him, but a grave injury. That night he wrote to me : " It is nine o'clock ; but before retiring I will fulfil the duty of thanking you for the signal service you have rendered me by sending Biri." * On the eastern banks of the Albert Nyanza. 26 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. Emin, in the excitement of success, always ready to commit imprudences, thanked the king and his minis- ters, thinking it a stroke of fine policy to send cour- teous words also to the wicked Abd Rehman, the per- fidious counsellor of Chua, whom, in those days, I (thanks to the help of the honest Kategora) had succeeded in placing in a critical and inferior position. Would I had never done so ! The letter was the great news of the day. " The Governor implored his support and withdrew his confi- dence from me, his representative." The game paid, and the threads of the intrigue, which were momen- tarily broken and dispersed, were reunited for a more serious matter. #^ 02. ^ •A" -TT "TT "TV- VT- On Nov. 14, my loyal friend, the old Minister, Kategora, died suddenly. The king sent a special messenger to announce the sad news to me, and as- sured me of his unalterable benevolence. But the public voice declared that Kategora had been poisoned. The king, the very morning of the assassination, had said that henceforward he intended to g^overn bv the lower classes. He would no longer recog^nise the authoritv of the nobles. And while the Minister was dying in agony, a step only from the door of the palace, he made a party of boys sing the sad canticle (at that moment ironical and cruel) : " He dies ! He dies ! " On Dec. 5, Bbi departed for Uganda with a good quantity of ivory to exchange for goods, leaving a hope of better times to come in every mind. But affairs proceeded differently in Unyoro ; the king and soldiers, ancient enemies of the Egyptian Government, in the firm resolution of putting an end (at a favourable opportunity) to their unwelcome OHIJA'S INSOLENCE. •27 neighbour, with extreme levity (excited by greed for the immense quantities of ivory and arms), stooped to pre- tended comphances and friendly words, but now, terri- fied by the unexpected resistance to their evil designs, they tried to withdraw these ill-advised measures, and the most infamous plots were put in action ; the grand master and leader in them being Abd Rehman, who in the eyes of the king appeared the only wise counsellor that could insinuate himself into the mind of the Governor and direct intrigues without generating sus- picion. Babedongo, leader of the soldiers, having been recalled, prohibited the merchants from selling me goods, or holding any communication with me. A -certain Abubeker, who brought goods for the Govern- ment from Uganda, was ill-treated, robbed, and driven back to the confines of the country ; under severe penalties, the natives were prohibited from sell- ing me grain or eatables, and the ivory given to the king, as a recompense for allowing the transit of Biri's caravan, was insultingly rejected. " The horns of my cows," Chua sent to say, " are much longer than the elephant's tusks you have presented me, I do not know what to do with them ; keep them for yourself" " I regret," I replied, through the chief Bagonza, who was charged with this ridiculous refusal, " that the king should take so futile a pretext to disturb our relations. I advise him not to follow the suggestions of wicked men. As for the pieces of ivory, I will keep them at his disposal." Hostile measures were not confined to these insults. In a great council of the chief men and soldiers, pre- sided over by the king, they went still further. The chiefs of Tunguru and of Msua were summoned to Juaya. Kisa and Gumangi were miserably killed. 28 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. being found guilty of having made an act of submission to Emin Bey; the king's advisers instigated the negroes to refuse grain to the soldiers ; they made a secret and extensive jjropaganda of rebellion amongst the ShooU and Lur ; they at length ventilated the project of attacking the station of Wadelai, if the revolution triumphed ; and they were masters of the territory of the Shefalu, at that time subject to chief Anfina. Besides these plots, which I had clearly explained to the Governor, there was one that Emin, by a special messenger, should be invited by King Kabba Bega to visit Unyoro and his Court, under pretences of friendship and alliance. It was not easy to dissuade the Governor from making this proposed visit, and it was only after he had been convinced bv others of the treason designed aofainst him that he lent faith to my disinterested exhortations. Emin did not come, and I did not move. Our dignity and interests required us to keep a footing in Unyoro ; to retire would be follv — it would be to confess our- selves conquered, and to allow the animosity of the blacks, hitherto curbed, to break forth to our injury under the leadership of King Chua. ^ ^v" The presence of Mohammed Biri at Wadelai, and, still more, the quantity of goods that he brought to the Government, produced a salutary effect on the majority of Emin's soldiers. The negroes have a philosophy all their own ; apathetic and passive by nature, yet of childish enthusiasm, with a mind void of sensibility and closed against every generous impulse, they are credulous even to superstition in all that strikes the imagination ; but suspicious even to insolence in all that concerns material life. It gradually dawned on them that the Government CONSEQUENCES OF BIRI'S ARRIVAL. 2!> watched over them, to deny it would be stupidity, and even the neofroes disHke being- called foolish ; the Viceroy sent not only a letter, but Biri, a man of flesh and blood, not a mite, who, besides, brought cloth and glassware. He had come through Uganda and Unyoro — therefore the roads must be open — and he came with that soldier Surur, who had left with Doctor Junker, and who, after nine months, reappeared fat, robust, and merry as of yore. Resistance was evidently overcome ; in fact proposals for a general flight, of abandoning the Province and re- tiring by way of Khartoum, would not have found followers — would have been listened to with scorn. Some distinguished themselves, it is true, by obstinacy, especially amongst the ofiicers, but rather from shame at acknowledging that they were mistaken than by conviction. The first step was taken ; the thread that tied us to the future was fastened ; and this fraction of the Egyptian forces could consider itself safe, if a firm and vigorous hand had been able to infuse confidence, to excite self-respect, and inflame all minds with a noble desire for active operations. But Emin did not wish, or did not know how to seize the opportunity that presented itself of over- coming the diflerences that had provoked the quarrels in the provinces. He refused to arrest two factious ofiicers of the first battalion, as I advised him, and he would not remove the chief commander of the second — a man who was generally known to be the originator of all the dissensions. And this was bad for him and for all of us. His temporising in the continual hope of a better day shook his authority as a commander, more and more, and gradually brought him into general distrust. Indifierence slowly filtered through the line of soldiers 30 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. and officers, and obedience degenerated into a simple act of respect. Chua did not hesitate to carry out the programme that he had drawn up ; the signal was given and the Shooli arose ; but, defeated at Fadibek, Fatiko, and elsewhere by the soldiers, who were always ardent and ready for a fight, they paid for their unfaithfulness with "WE AKE THUiSTISG FUR BL0OI>." many victims. Protshamma, the soul of the insur- rectionary movement and of the insane attempt, fell also. The end of the month of January was near. " Not one soldier, or a single cartridge, shall you have to make war against Uganda," I said, one dav to the king : he consequently hastened the departure of Mabuzi, the envoy of Muanga, with gifts and proposals of peace. And this consent to peace, which he gave so THE LANGO PANTOMIME. 31 reluctantly — extorted from him, as it was, by the perilous situation in which the unlucky defeat of the Shooli had placed him — he resolved to seal with an ironical pantomime. Parties of the Lango people, their bodies tattooed in colours, performed sham fights, rush- ing towards the embassy of the Waganda, who were present at the tournament, as if in the act of striking them with their lances and long knives. Individuals, with hair dyed scarlet, rushed furiously towards the king, crying, " We are thirsting for blood, give us one of these villains." And the trumpets and choruses intoned the well-known song, " King Chua is powerful. He has reduced to slavery the Shefalu and the Waganda. He has obliged the soldiers to pay tribute ; the only invincible ones are the Lango." To which, with a marked and sonorous song, a youth of the deputation of the Waganda responded, " King Chua, murder us if it pleases thee ; cast us into the burning pile as thou hast done with others — little we care. Cabaca lives to avenge us, his drum already beats for recruits ; and — for the height of insult — when Mabuzi and his followers move to depart, let Chua cause us to be followed by this tipsy crowd of excited savao-es." A fowl, with its throat cut, was found in the great dining-room of the royal palace on the morning of February 8. The Arabs were suspected of having secret intelligence with us, and two of them were expelled from the kingdom. The report gained belief that Biri had had charge of forming an alliance with Muanga in the name of the Governor of Equatoria, and that soldiers were already being organised to invade the country. So many contrary rumours kept the mind of the king in constant anxiety, ah-eady overwhelmed as he was by 32 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. the disaster that had befallen the Shooli, and inclined to superstition. The throne was threatened %vith ■certain peril ; the spirit of his father, irritated, perhaps, by his son's past misfortunes, does not watch over the prosperity of the kingdom as he did in the past, but •causes mourning and tears ; it is necessary to appease him with sacrifices. The queen-mother is consulted. She is a great priestess and magician, and she decrees that they must have recourse to the monstrous cere- monies of the mpango or axe, in order to avoid the present evils and propitiate the favour of the defunct Kamrasi for the future. The articles that they employ for this rite are — a drum, round which is wound a thick brass wire. It is also ornamented with talismans, consisting of pieces of wood, to which are attributed special magical virtues ; a wooden stool covered with lion and leopard skins ; an iron lance of about five feet in length, the handle surrounded with brass wire ; and lastly, an axe (mpango) with the helve of wood covered with leopard skin, and with brass wire on the upper portion. The tenth day of February passed. The sun hastened towards the west — a blow was struck on the grand drum, deep and solemn. In a moment songs ceased, all sounds were hushed, the market was empty ; every one went to his OAvn habitation ; the roads were deserted and for three long days silence and sadness reigned around. Only the slow dismal ring: of blows struck at intervals on the great drum told that they were fulfilling the myste- rious rites of the mpango, which caused the miser- able inhabitants to shudder with fear. It is the popular belief that the nuggare sounds without being beaten whenever the angry spirit of Kamrasi wishes to be appeased by human victims. THE GREAT SACRIFICE. 33 The period of the mysterious rites was passed ; the sun approached the end of his journey ; the great nuggare gave forth its deepest sounds ; cries of terror mixed with reverence echoed everywhere, and spread from villao-e to villagfe, following one another like the waves of the sea ; the miserable passers-by, the peaceful husbandmen, were seized, bound with cords, and their throats cut, as a holocaust to the Great Father. In Juaya ten unhappy creatures paid tribute with their blood to this superstition. The rite is sometimes prolonged till the fifth day. But the great sacrifice was not to be completed till the morning of the next day, when the king stood erect in the hut of the mpango, on the threshold of the large door of ingress, dressed in the traditional habit ; a great mantle of stuft' made from the bark of trees, sunnounted by a leopard skin hanging at his back and round his neck ; his head crowned with talis- mans, his wrists, neck, and ankles ornamented with large glass beads, and holding his lance in his right hand. The members of the Condo and all the nobles were arranged in a semicircle in the great court, sitting on their little benches ; the guardian of the mpango stood at the right hand of the king, holding high the fatal axe ; nuggare and a small chair belonging to the grand rite were placed in the front ; a large cup was on the ground a little way ofi"; terror and silence rested upon the assembly. The king made a sign with his head ; the great men rose, and, bowing in sign of reverence, approached him ; he touched one of them with the point of his spear on the shoulder ; the chief advanced and extended his neck; the horrid axe descended; the blood was caught in the cup ; the king with his finger sprinkled some of VOL. II. c I I 34 TEX YEARS IN EQUATORIA. it on his own forehead and cheeks, then on those of the great men ; grasping the vase he jDOured the remain- I ing blood on the drum and on the httle seat. The sacrifice "was complete ; nuggare, seat, lance, axe, and cup were raised and carried to the residence of the , queen-mother. At a sign from the king the sorrow- j ing parents took away the body of the unhappy Kisa, late chief of the district of Muenghe. The drums and i A IITMAN SACRIFICE. fifes sounded for a feast ; they killed oxen, opened jars of beer, and the drunken people then danced and enjoyed themselves upon the ground just bathed with the blood of the victim. Men's minds being at ease, all thoughts and hearts returned to their ancient boldness. Confident of success, the madmen blindly relied on the security given by supernatural protection, and again took up the thread of their enterjjrises. I DESTRUCTION OF JUAYA. 35 When Chua thought that Emin's aj)proach was near, he suddenly decided to abandon Juaya. On the morning of March 6, the king immolated a boy of twelve years of age, with his own hand, in the interior of his dwelling, and also a white heifer at the entrance, as a holocaust to his dead father, to propi- tiate him and obtain his protection during his journey. Amidst the sound of fifes and drums, discharges of musketry, and the howls rather than cries, of an applauding crowd, he took a southerly route, carrying with him his paternal Lares, the infamous instruments of the mpango. After wandering about some time he stopped at Muimba, planted his lance in the gxound, and built himself a new palace, as the oracle had commanded him. The removal from Juaya was completed about noon ; the signal for its destruction was given, columns of smoke and fire rose from the abandoned royal resi- dence, the conflagration spread from all parts, crack- ling and sending up immense spires of smoke, broken by flashes of flame that illumined the sky with a sinister light. The sad spectacle was prolonged for two days, when everything relapsed into obscurity and silence, and as the sole reminiscence of past greatness there remained a mass of ashes. CHAPTER III. REGION BETWEEN THE ALBERT AND VICTORIA LAKES. Uganda and Unyoro — Watershed between the Victoria Nile and Lake Albert — The region of forests — Mount Sedgiomocoro — The Kaf u, the Ngussi, the Msiri — The peninsula of Magungo— Climate — Productions of the | vegetable kingdom — The fauna — Destruction of hyenas — The chimpanzee — , Professor Giglioli and the Troglodytes Schweinfurthii — Professor Reichart of Berlin — The termes mordax — The different tribes of which the people of Unyoro consist — The Ktnyoro or language spoken in Unyoro — The fran- | colin and the tortoise — The leopard and the dog — King Chua teUs the story of the Golden Book of his family— The Wahuma— Customs of this tribe — From Juaya to Katua on the Ruitan Lake — The Virica of the Vacongio — The Ruwenzori of Stanley — Mountains of the Moon — Political government and administration of the Soudan — The order of the Condo — Sacrifices at every new moon — The magic spirit that disturbs the mind of the Queen-mother — Suuna and the hundred murdered — Bead culture — Three cudgel blows — Another locality selected — Cutting off the hands and blinding — A decree against pipes — The ceremony of the milk — Kamissua, son of Rionga, entrapped — The king eats — The Wanyoro I — The Tiumba — The Mhutju — The ceramic art — Butter — The merchants of Zanzibar — Customs of the Wanyoro — The great dispenser of rain and his delegates — Funeral honours — King Kamrasi's sepulchre — The veneration of the people and the capricious superstition of the despot. amidst dense masses of papp^us, occupy the territory that borders the Victoria and Albert Lakes. THE TERRITORY BETWEEN THE LAKES. 37 In the inner country are tall grasses, thickets of reeds, extensive plains on the summit of the hills, long- valleys in a humid and productive soil, where the ancient trees of the forest zone are overshadowed by 8H00LI WARlilORS. Palma ddm, lofty sycamores, Eiqjhorhia venefica, and varieties of mimosa. Wild thyme perfumes the hills, the plateaux and the sides of the mountains are covered by thickets of bamboo ; and on the land, watered by 38 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. rivulets, grow beautiful Pistia stratiotes and Nymphea lotus, with its rosy flowers. The watershed between the Victoria Nile and Lake Albert runs in a northerly direction, and the hiofhest point is in the district of Nusranduru, on Mount Sedgiomocoro. It was in this natural fortress, with its rocky sides, that Kabba Rega was entrenched, when (after his father's death) he disputed the Crown with his brother Kabamiro. The great watercoiurses that sweep the territory of Unyoro have their source in this neighbourhood ; the Kafu, or River of Death, that flows into the Nile near ancient Mruli ; the Ngussi, which, traversing the forest of Kirian- gobi, falls into Lake Albert ; and the Msiri, that descends in a south-westerly direction, by the terri- tory of Muenghe, and then flows on to mingle its waters with the lakes. The land advances, in a series of hills shaped as terraces, towards the tablelands of Moranda, Nparo, Juaya, Ku'iangobi, and Kitana, and from this line, that curves from a south-east to a north-west dh-ection, it descends to the Victoria Nile, forming the peninsula of the Magungo, that is in the north-east extremity of Lake Albert. The climate in this region is healthy and temperate. Rain falls abundantly, and even in the diy season the earth retains sufficient humidity, for the dews are heavy, and there are frequent light breezes. The lains are often preceded by violent storms of wind, almost always accompanied by thunder and lightning, and occasionally by a fall of hail. The continual dampness is favourable to the abundant growth and perfection of vegetable productions, causing their gradual development, and bringing them to maturity at the proper season. Maize, Eleusina comcana, Batata edulis, Hehnia hulhifera, manioc, and various species of VEGETATION AND ANIMALS. 39 vegetables, thrive there, and the banana, the staple food consumed by the people, yields abundance of excellent fruit. Tobacco [taba) yields a highly per- fumed leaf when cultivated in elevated places, but one A SIIOOLI FAMILY. of a rather inferior quality when it is grown in low situations and valleys. Elephants are to be found in great numbers in the woods of Kafu ; lions prowl round the cattle enclosures 40 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. in couples, leopards and hyenas, besides jackals, crowds of antelopes, gazelles, and wild boars, abound in the tablelands and valleys. Colonies of spotted monkeys make frequent pillaging incursions from the thickets into the fields and banana plantations, but a superstitious veneration keeps these quadru- mana safe from the snares of men. In one day, during a violent hurricane, I suffered the complete destruction of a field of maize bv a troop of Colohus quereza. I had an opportunity of speaking to the king about this unpleasant visit, and with an air of sincere regret he said, " Do not kill any of those animals ; it might bring misfortune upon you." The grey parrots (Psittacius erythacus) fly in clouds, noisily screaminof durino- most of the months of the year, and especially at the time of their double migra- tion; multitudes of birds are to be seen, such as the weavers that build hanging nests ; the lively swallows, that seem unwilling to make their return journey, as if tempted to linger by the softness of the climate, and the brisk wagtail, that on our very threshold chatters news from the far off fatherland. After the king had abandoned Juaya, the neigh- bourhood of my habitation was changed into a meeting place for crowds of hyenas. The impunity accorded to monkeys I could not extend to these un- clean animals, whose troublesome cries sounded like an augury of misfortune. Their destruction was decreed, and a dead ass facilitated the execution of the project. We injected strychnine under the skin of the dead animal, and then abandoned it to the wild beasts. For two consecutive nights the terrible cries of the dying gluttons deafened the air, then silence followed, and calm was spread around us. But the story THE CHIMPANZEE. 41 was soon divulged, and the voices of the maUgnant natives at length reached Uganda, with the addition that the poison used in this instance had been given by me to King Chua, in large quantities ; and the sale of salt at the markets on the borders experienced a palpable diminution for some time in consequence. The woods of Farajak, on the tableland to the south of Kitana, and the forest of Kiriangobi, that descends from Juaya to the lake, at no great distance from Kibiro, and is crossed by the river Ngussi, are a favour- ite abode of the chimpanzee. Nevertheless, the terror with which this animal inspires the Wanyoro preserves it from being- hunted as it is in the reg-ions of the Mambettu and Sandeh, who pursue the chase of it in a surprisingly energetic manner. This monkey enjoys royal protection, the natives say, and it would be a crime to capture or kill it without an express order, because ages ago it formed part of the human race. According to Schweinfurth, the chimpanzee of Central Africa differs from the Troglodytes niger, and must be considered as a distinct variety, that, in process of time, has been developed by natural selection in a given region. Professor Giglioli, of Florence, has classified it as a secondary species, naming it Troglo- dytes Schweinfurthii, in consequence of studies made on the skulls brought home by that illustrious scientist in 1872. Professor Peichart, of Berlin, considers it identical with the niger. The chimpanzee found in Unyoro is the same as that in the basin of the Welle-Makua. From its resemblance to man it is called niabantu. The country is, in addition, infested with voracious termites, that supply a kind of food for the population. At the period of their transformation into winged insects, the natives capture them by means of fire, in the . same 42 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. manner that they do in the Mambettu region, with this single difference, that the- chase is more carefully pre- pared, by raising straw conical sheds on the hills A SHOOLl CHIEF. which swarm with them. The habit of feeding on dried termites has been the custom throughout Africa since the most ancient times. As the divine THE POPULATION. 43 Dante rightly says in the Inferno, canto xxix. " And afterwards, as bards of yore have told, The ancient people were restored anew From seed of emmets." — Cury's 'Irdnslation. A SHOOLI CHIEF. The population of the kingdom is a mixture of Madundi, Magaya, Wahuma, Shefalu, Magungo, and Wanyoro. There is also a strong colony of Shooli, 44 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. emigrants from the territory of Fatiko, who left their homes on account of the oppressions and sufferings inflicted upon them by the soldiers of the Egyptian Government. { The Madundi and the Shefalu are especially spread j along the banks of the Victoria Nile ; the Magaya occupy the central tableland in the districts of Juaya and Baganghese ; the Wahuma form the pre- vailing population of Muenghe ; and the Wanyoro who are, it is believed, the aborigines, form the majority in the Nusranduru and River Kafu regfions. 1 The language, which has had the triumph of j overcoming or mixing itself with those of so many peoples of various origin and customs, is the Kinyoro, which, like the Kiganda, appertains to the famih' of African tono^ues called Bantu. The lano-uao-es of the Wanyoro and Waganda differ very little, indeed, it j might almost be said that those two peoples have an identical idiom. The Rev. C T. Wilson (missionary) \\Tites thus on the subject : " It is a comjiosite iuiom ; all the inflexions of the verbs and other parts of speech ai'e formed by a vaiiety of affixes and prefixes which \ are united to the root of the word. In the case of the verb, there are separate prefixes which repiesent the subject, the object, and \ the relative pronoiuis, which are then joined to the root of the verb, | so that what in most European languages would be a complete , sentence, is in this tongue expressed by a single word, and con- j sequently to a European ear it sounds like a very solemn language. | The substantive is the most important part of the idiom, there being several species of nouns, each ha\-ing its own special pailicle in the singular as well as the plural, which is joined to the root of the adjective, pronoun, oi- vei-b ; thus, that which most strikes a European who heai-s this tongue for the first time is the apparent uncertainty of ' the forms of the adjectives, the change being at the beginning instead of the end of the word. The language when spoken is very soft, and resembles Italian in sound, for the vowels predominate, and NATIVE FABLES. 45 there are no guttm-als. Certainly, like all the savage languages, it has no liteiatnre and no form of writing, but we think that with an alphabet of twenty-four letter's omitting ' q ' and ' x,' all the words could be written." I will here repeat two fables that I heard from the natives, which will suffice to show their lively intelligence : The Francolin and the Tortoise. "I am better off than thou," said the francolin to the tortoise ; " I can both walk quickly and fly." " I con- gratulate you," replied the tortoise. " I draw myself along, and do my business in the best way I can." Now, it happened that some men out hunting set fire to the grass of the plain. The increasing con- flagration drew closer, and made the circle smaller and smaller. The peril of the two animals was imminent and certain. The tortoise drew himself into a deep wet hole, made by the foot of an elephant, and was saved. The francolin tried to fly, but the smoke and fire overpowered him and he fell down and died. He who boasts fails when tested. The Leopard and the Dog. The leopard confided her three little cubs to the custody of the dog, assuring him that he should have as a recompense for his services, plenty of meat ; on condition, however, that he never gnawed the bones. The arrangement went on very well for some time, but one day the dog, yielding to temptation, gnawed a bone. A splinter flew from it, and, striking a cub on the head, killed it. He found it easy to deceive the mother on her return by bringing the two survivors up to her to be fed, one after the other — the first twice. Soon the same fate befell the second cub. Then the 46 TEN YEARS IN EQTJATORIA. dog, seeing that his fault must be found out, fled and sought shelter witli a man, who promised to protect and defend him, on condition that he did not leave the house. The dog promised, but a few days afterwards, seeing a heap of bones at a little distance, he broke his word and went out. The leopard, who had been in SHOOLI VESSELS AXl) ORNAMENT?, search of him for some time to avenge the death of her cubs, sprang upon him, killed and devoured him, and from that day the leopard has not ceased waging war on dogs, and eating their flesh. " I am the eighteenth king of my family," said the despot of Unyoro one day to me. ORIGIN OF THE DYNASTIES. 47 The founder of the dynasty came from the countries beyond Lango, and estabhshed himself in Uganda. An expert huntsman, he taught the natives to kill the wild animals, and his fame spread so far that at last the queen was seized with a desire to see the brave stranger. He was a very handsome man, and the lady fell in love with him, and did not hesitate (for his sake) to poison her husband. On his marriage with her he ascended the throne, and had two sons, to whom, on his death-bed he gave, as separate heritages, the kingdoms of Uganda and Unyoro. And thus Chua asserted, on the strength of tradition, his Galla origin. That emigrations of this people had passed through the lands of Unyoro is proved incon- testably by the use (still common) of words of the Galla language, especially in the sale of articles of food. The numerous family of the Wahuma undoubtedly had its origin in the great tribe of the Galla. It com- prises a good number of people in Unyoro and Uganda, has acquired supreme power in the countries of Nkole and Karagua, and has succeeded in subduing the tribes of Vavra and Walegga in the countries west of Lake Albert. Having a strong predilection for rearing oxen, and no love for warlike enterprises, the Wahuma — though they have adopted the language of the people with whom they find themselves in contact — still in their habits and customs are faithful to the traditions of their ancestors. Disdainins" agricultural work, they live on flesh and milk only, and their inclination for strong drinks, common to all the Africans, is largely satisfied by the exchange of their productions. They rarely marry a woman belonging to other tribes, whom they despise, considering them of inferior race. 48 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA, Their mode of dress — their hair constantly shaved, the use of sandals for their feet, and several super- stitious practices before entering the house when they return after a protracted absence — make the Wahuma a distinct class, and separate them from the people amongst whom they live. The Wahuma women, from their physical beauty, their moral qualities, and domestic activity, are much sought after, especially by the chiefs. The territory subject to King Chua beyond Unyoro extends to the lands on the eastern side of Lake Albert, to the district of Mruli and Torn, and stretches as far as Lake Ruitan, where a station was erected for soldiers, who had the privilege of selling salt, which abounds in the small lake of Kio. The district of Mboga on the left bank of the Semliki is also gfoverned in Chua's name, and he receives tribute from the Lur of Melindwa, the chief of the western mountains that run along the coast of Lake Albert. It takes eighteen days to go from Juaya to Katua, the station established on the Usongora. The road runs down the western side of the chain, and passes at a little distance from Lake Albert, nearly parallel to it as far as Kieya, always in a southerly direction ; there, by difficult roads on the heights, it stretches to Mruli, Torn, and the lake. The king made frequent raids into these unhappy countries, once flourishing with abundant herds and tranquil homes. In one that the chief Ireta made there in the early months of 1887, 10,000 head of cattle were carried off. The Wahuma shepherds, voluntarily followed the victors, with their families, preferring to serve them in the capacity of cow-keepers, rather than to be separated from their flocks. It was at this time that I fii'st heard of the MOUNT RUWENZORI. 4'.) white mountain with two horns, the Virika of the Vacongio, the Varicampanga of the Wanyoro, the Ruwenzori of Stanley. Of measureless height, of dreadful cold, there is peril of certain death awaiting him who attempts to climb those masses, inhabited by a powerful and malignant spirit, who keeps himself almost always enveloped in clouds ; thus, at least, say those ^ who return from Usongora, and they add that a fierce people, the Vacongio, with a white skin and a peculiar lano-uao-e, dwell on the rocks of the mountain, whom neither the men of Unyoro nor those of Uganda have succeeded in conquering. The King of Unyoro rules this extensive territory by means of governors appointed over every single district. The magnoro, as these administrators are called, are the chiefs of the various jurisdictions, which they govern in the name of the king, supply soldiers in time of war, and pay tribute in ivory, animals, iron, and food. To these are subject the so-called matungoli, who have a limited power over some divisions of the territory. The provinces must always be represented at the Sovereign's residence, either by the chiefs invested with their government or by their representatives, who have the title of makongo. From amongst the magyioro the king selects his own secretary, the du'ectors of the storehouses and armouries, the delegates who represent him in the tributary provinces, the chiefs of the missions appointed to the adjacent States, and the supreme commander of the troops during war. The magyioro may be either hereditary, in the case of good services rendered by the dead father ; or elective, as a reward for personal merits or from the special favour and benevolence of the king. The hereditary government is, however, given to the one \0L. II. D 60 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. amongst the sons of the late magnoro who offers the largest gifts to the avidity of the monarch. The magnoro may be invested with an Order, called that of the Condo, which places him on a level with the king's relations. The members of this order are not subject to capital punishment ; they enjoy public respect, are the Crown counsellors, and reside with the Mahitu. King Chua, however, de- viating from the usages consecrated by tradition, pro- nounced sentence of death, even upon these men, but he first practised the cruel cunning of degrading them from their order. The ornament that distinguishes the Order of the Condo consists in a leather ribbon studded with shells and various bead pearls, which descends from the top of the back of the head to both sides of the face, and is tied under the chin. The number of members is fixed at seventeen, from which the victim for the grand sacrifice of the mpango (as an honourable distinction) is selected. The power and greatness of the Sovereign and the happiness of the people of the kingdom, are believed to arise from the assistance of invisible powers, to whose sway is added that of the soul of the dead Kamrasi. At everv new moon human being's are sacrificed to propitiate their favour and ensure happiness. These immolations are not, however, distinguished by any par- ticular display ; ordinary business is suspended for three days, and the rites of the new moon are performed inside the palace, by the sacrifice of some victim of propitiation and bv killing- out of doors, in the direction thev wish to frio-hten away the evil eve, a variable number of in- dividuals. They kill bulls on the king's tomb monthly, as a sacrifice, and human victims are often added to them. On occasions of the illness of the king or of the HUMAN SACRIFICES. 51 members of the royal family, human sacrifices play an important pait. On the 8th of May the magic spirit, whose emblems encircle the head of the queen-mother, ang-ry, perhaps, on account of some want of reverence, disturbed her mind and made her ill. Two bulls, one white and the other red, were sacrificed, but in vain ; the spirit was ' not appeased ; and then human victims, in considerable numbers, were offered. This custom had been practised from a distant epoch. Suuna, King of Uganda, father of Mtesa, being attacked with a slight malady, doctored himself, and ordered a hundred human victims of expiation to be kiUed daily to obtain his cure ; for fifteen days (so long did the illness last) every sunrise saw the horrid butchery. Fortune willed that death should put an end to these devout practices. The Sovereiofn, whilst riding- on his Prime Minister (for such was his custom) was entering his own residence upon return from a journey, when he fell, attacked with apoplexy. It was during" the reign of Suuna that the first Zanzibari merchant made his appearance in Uganda. He was incessantly annoyed by demands for beads, and told the king one day that he ought to cultivate them. The credulous monarch set to work, and not perceiving any result, took counsel of the merchant again, and he, having nearlv concluded his business, and being on the point of leaving, continued the trick, and recommended the expedient of watering the field which had been sown ; but the day having arrived on which the merchant hoped to proceed on his journey home, the king refused his permission ; he repeated the request, and was told that he should go as soon as the beads germinated. 52 TEN YEARS IX EQUATORIA. He was not at liberty to depart till the death of Suuna, and it was lucky for him that nothing worse happened to him. King Chua's Court has not an aristocratic appear- ance, such as one meets with at the lord of Utranda's, but the iron hand of the despot falls inexorably, whether justly or unjustly, on the persons who have incurred the Sovereign's displeasure. Culprits, condemned upon bare suspicion, are barbarously .slain bv appointed executioners. They secure the doomed man with cords round his arms and leg-s, so as to obliofe him to l^end his back forwards ; and then with a knotted club they inflict three heavy blows on the temples with surprising dexterity, which kill the victim instantlv. The body is generally left on the place of execution as food for wild beasts and vultures ; to only approach or stop to look at the dead bodies constitutes a crime that is punishable with death. In the early days of my arrival at Juaya the gi'ounds round my habitation were generally selected as the theatre of these monstrosities. In the silence of the night I heard distressing- cries, the echo of three " blows of grace," and groans that were slowly stifled. One morning seven dead bodies lay, horribly disfigured, in the nearest fields. I went to complain of this to the kino-. He told me that I ought not to be troubled CI o by it, as these people were not deserving of pity. I then made him understand the disgust that the fact produced on my mind ; he smiled, but selected another locality for the horrible office. Thieves and seducers of women he corrected b}^ amputating their hands, or burning the pupils of their eyes, not considering these crimes worthy of death. On the evening of February 22, 1887, a column of smoke rose near the royal mansion ; the hut of a I THE CEREMONY OF THE MILK. 53 clever worker in the ceramic art had caught fire through a Hghted pipe having been left amongst the dry herbage with which the ground of their habitation is always strewn. The fire, however, was soon exting-uished, but the followino- morning^ a decree was issued against pipes and smokers. The king's guards were occupied in breaking pipes and bastinadoing^ smokers for fully three days, without distinction of rank ; the potter, in consideration of his skill, was not awarded a very severe punishment. It is a mark of high distinction and of great trust to be admitted to the ceremony of the milk. The members of the royal family and the great chiefs do not enjoy such an honour. The having performed heroic deeds in war, the having shown an unalterable fidelity to the king, and, still more, the being in s^aiipathy with him, are reasons which mav admit men to this hig-hest of all distinctions in the kingdom. Night having fallen, and the king's tables being set, those invited to the ceremony enter the grand hall of the royal mansion ; the di'ums beat, the fifes whistle the royal march ; the king takes a vase full of milk, drinks, and then passes it on to those present, who in turn drink also. When the ceremony is finished the doors are opened, and the friends of the great men are admitted to the daily entertainment of getting intoxicated on copious libations, the king setting the example. The milk ceremony was fatal to Kamissua, the son of Rionga, Sovereign of Foweira, and tributary to the King of Unyoro. He had hardly arrived at Muimba, having been invited to this great honour, than he was arrested, conducted to Muenghe, and there murdered. Supersti- tion in Unyoro even extends to the food. The king does not eat poultry ; and woe to the chief that does not conform to a similar restriction. Moreover, he 54 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOPJA. I limits his dishes to veal boiled with bananas, telahun porridge, and banana beer, fermented with germinat- ing corn, which is called muenga. The beating of drums announces that the king is moving- towards the room where the roval table is laid ; the flight of the women and children from the royal court is general ; the passages through which the king's dishes pass are deserted ; his food is cooked by persons of tested faith, and is closely covered, in order that the evil eye should not cast a malignant spell upon it. During- the Sove- reign's repast the Prime Minister watches at the door of ingi'ess, turnincr his back upon the king while eating ; and as an lionourable recompense, he is allowed to feed on the roval lea^dngs, seated upon the ground at his post of vigilance. The population of Un- yoro lively by their natural intelligence, devoted and submissive to the king (more through fear than affection), are not lovers of bold, warlike enterprises, but only of a belligerent S})irit in raids and pillaging. They exhibit their gifts in industries and commerce. Numerous traders gather at the market-places with their produce ; and flour, sesame, tobacco, hides, iron, and ivory can be purchased from them. A product largely consumed is beer made of banana juice ; it is as 1 I ] i I I I i I I i I ! ! 1 PREPARING BARK. 55 necessary to the natives as food. In the Juaya market they used to sell about a thousand large jars of it daily. The people are skilful tanners, and make dresses of skins that equal cloth in softness. The tiumhe are mantles formed by joining goat-skins, tanned, prepared, and sewn with such care as to present the seams well covered with hair ; they also make, these garments with ox-hide, which they render soft and light, to serve as clothes for the poorer classes. The working of such stuffs requires patient labour ; and it is executed with the greatest skill by means of repeated rasping on the back of the skins, which are previously moistened and stretched by means of wooden pegs on the ground. The costume of dresses made of skin is taken from the Wahuma. The tra- ditional dress, however, that is still used by the greater number of people, and always worn at the recurrence of festivals and public functions, is made of the bark of the mhugu or jicus latia. This is how the mis- sionary Wilson, already mentioned, describes the mode employed to render this bark fit to use as cloth : " They make an incision round the trunk in a part adapted for it, and another two or three feet lower down ; they then make a longi- tudinal cut between the two incisions, and lift the bark in such a manner as to preserve the cylindrical form. Having a thickness of about half an inch, they raise the surface with care, and the front part, that is generally spongy and full of water, they place on a long plank of hard and very smooth wood, and there two or three men beat it with hammers with great force and rapidity. These hammers are of the hardest wood and have their ends fluted, so that the stuff comes out like morocco. The material stretches under this opei'a- tion, and when it has gained the required firmness it is hung up to dry. After that they cut the edges carefidly and mend the holes that by chance might have been made by beating the bark. If the piece thus obtained is not large enough to make a dress they join others to it. The trees from which they have taken the bark are immediately covered with banana leaves, which are left on it till a new bark has formed on the wound." TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. Various are the qualities of the mhugu cloth. The most beautiful and the softest, of a dark red colour, comes from Uganda and Msoga, on the right bank of the Victoria Nile ; the strongest is made at Monyara, in the district of Mruli. Special artists attend to this manufacture, the production of which, though it is not very remunerative, nevertheless is a source of constant, if not great, profit. The ceramic art has also clever artisans, who make vases for milk, re- ceptacles for water, cups, and most beautiful pipes, of various shapes and great brilliancy of surface. The clay they use is blackish or reddish, and the different colours vary in price, the latter being considered the more valuable. In the markets there is plenty of butter, which is mostly bought by speculators, who send it to Uganda. It is an item of business almost exclusively belonging to the Wahuma, who are pos- sessors of cattle, or shepherds to the king or to the great of the realm. Butter is made by shaking the milk in large empty gourds ; it is pi eserved in a kind of wrapper formed by banana leaves covered with clay, mixed with ox excrement. The use of this tegument is general, it is a substitute for baskets. Tobacco, beans, sesame, corn, and salt are wrapped up in it to facilitate their trans- port. The coating of clay is only applied when they wish to guarantee the preservation of the different articles. The merchants of Zanzibar have gi'eatly con- tributed to develop the commercial tendencies of the natives, and the introduction of cowries [Cypi^ea moneta) has facilitated and extended business. Brouofht into the countrv by the search for ivorv, they did a good business in selling guns, powder, linen, and beads. They opened markets, Avhich put THE WANYORO. 57 them in contact with the population, and they knew how to acquire their confidence. Derogating somewhat from their own dignity, they made friends with the king, for whom they often committed secret mis- deeds. The various tribes scattered over the country, united by language and customs, and forming the people of Wanyoro, dwell in villages of no great extent, and like/ to build their abodes in banana woods. Their huts, of a conical form, built of bushes and grass, have high doors with a pent-house roof extending over them. The interior is well provided with utensils for domestic use, and is divided into various compartments. The women control the house, and attend to the work of the fields. The men, however, especially those of the poorest class, do not refuse to share in the heaviest labour. They are all devoted to drink, and a jar of beer is preferred to the most sumptuous food. Chiefs of high rank eat alone ; but the greater part of the native men sit at the same board as their families. All make use of wooden spoons. As lovers of feasts and dances, they seize upon every occasion for satisfying this passion, and dance at births and marriages, and after having completed the rites of the new moon they dance for three days, and drink to excess. The Wanyoro are very timid, and shudder at rain and dew. They never leave the house till the sun is high, and the roads in the hours of early morning are completely deserted, as they are also when it rains. They have a great respect for rain dispensers, whom they load with a profusion of gifts. The great dis- penser, he who has absolute and uncontrollable power over the rain is the kingf, but he can confer and divide his power with other persons, so that the benefit may be distributed in various parts of the kingdom. One 58 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. day a man arrived from the king, tired and breath- less, and cried in the streets and roads that they might begin to sow, for Makama had ordered them to begin MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS OF THE SIK'oLl. work in the fiekls at once. Rain had been wanted for a long time, it is true, but the sky remained bright, and the air calm. Nevertheless, next morning ram A HORRIBLE FUNERAL. 59 fell heavily, as if to confirm the supernatural power of the grand dispenser. The burial of the dead is performed without a long mourning, and with little ceremony. They are interred near the house of which they are considered the guardians, and the family are comforted by the thought that the dead man watches over the prosperity of the relatives left behind. Human sacrifices are not in accordance with the feelings of the Wanyoro, and if they perform them at all, it is only in imitation of a prerogative of the royal family. When Kamrasi died, a large deep ditch or pit was duof in the kinof's abode, destined to receive the re- mains of the dead when the funeral rites were quite com- pleted. Six of the dead monarch's wives were placed in it, and the body was fastened to their legs. A little boy kneeling at Kamrasi's feet held his pipe and tobacco jar. The horrible group was arranged (with- out a murmur from the unhappy victims), the pit was filled with earth, and on the tomb rivers of blood flowed from murdered human beings, to appease the dead monarch's soul, and render him propitious to the new despot. He still watches over the greatness and prosperity of the kingdom, and unhappy victims pay tribute for the veneration of the people to the dead Sovereign, and for the capricious superstition of the despotic heir. ( ) CHAPTER IV. DIFFICULTIES IN UNYORO. A throne streaming with blood — Absolute power of the king — The banasgura — Their increasing influence, their recruitment, and their conduct — The king desirous of pleasing — " Movement is life " — The way of deceit and treason— A fatal dualism — Pain destroys illusion— The boldness of yore encouraged by the paternal ghost — Alone in Juaya — Ahmed Akkad's good services— Willing and paid informer — The Dinka boy brave and affectionate — Shooting the thieves — An unpleasant nocturnal visitor — The expulsion of the merchants — I am accused of plotting against the king — A guard on the River Kafu — Biri's servant arrested — Chua will not have me — Plan to attack Wadelai — Emiu informed of it by me — At Muimba, June 1, 1887 — Obese wemen — The steamers Khedive and Nyanza on the Victoria Nile — Burning of the village of Rokora — Destruction of barges — Anger of the king — Letters seized — Biri on the road to L'nyoro — Unavoidable danger — Fortunate meeting with my people — The young ruler ignorant of the way to govern — The Waganda resume hostilities — A Winchester rifle, psychical experiment — Joyful welcome — I obtain permis- sion to remain in Unyoro — Fights — A deputation from Waganda— Oakibi and Kauta — The troops of Waganda— They march past my house — The hanassura fighting — Emin at Kibiro — Alliance or invasion — My expulsion is requested — I am to exchange blood with his son. The acquisition of supreme power by violence and fraternal bloodshed, and the intimate friendship of King Chua with the slave dealers, which had become perfect (not onl}^ because he was theu^ accomplice, but also from habit), were the motives which induced him to entrust his safety to foreign and mercenary guards. Moreover, the necessity of maintaining his prestige by terror over a population who had applauded the un- fortunate Kabamiro, his innate cowardice and abject customs, were additional reasons for his confiding in strangers. Faith in the dynastic and national tradi- tions, and, still more, the loyalty of old Kategora and THE BANASSURA. 61 others, had occasionally hindered imprudent changes of the ordinances of the kingdom. This displeased the despot, who, having at last given up all hesitation, was not ashamed to attempt the life of his father's friend, his patient and affectionate adviser. From that day the power of the hanassura in the Government was assured. The owners of the land were deprived of every customary right, and the king, was happy in exclaiming, " I reign alone, since my ministers are the low and weak." The institution of the hanassura was originally in- tended to supply the king with a special guard, more as an exterior distinction than for the protection of the Court and his life. In Kamrasi's time, the tranquillity and safety of the kino- were entrusted to the attention and devotion of the people to his sacred person. Parties of armed natives watched the royal residence in turn during the night, encamping round it with bright fires and singing national songs full of the king's praise. The duty of the hanas- sura was then limited to a service of pageantry and keeping order at public assemblies ; to receiving ambas- sadors, and forwarding royal despatches to the chiefs of the State provinces. Most of them were armed with lance and shield, only a few having muskets, more as an honour than as a practical weapon of defence. Their duties were limited to obeying the orders they received, and they were subject to the magnoro and matungoli, who were solely responsible to the king for the adminis- tration of the provinces entrusted to them. The hanassura were mostly strangers in the countiy ; they were looked upon with contempt by the natives, and had the character of being' rather the king's slaves than soldiers of the country. The hanassui'a were recruited from the deserters of the Egyptian troops. C2 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. from runaway slaves, and riotous youths from the bordering States ; in this corps of brigands there are Waganda, Bari, Shooh, Lur, Walegga, Lango, Madi, and Bongo men, by whom the Crown of Unyoro was supported, its subjects terrorised, and the main strength of its combatants obtained. The young king was an ardent admirer of the firearms carried by Baker's soldiers, the more so as the troops of General Gordon distributed along the Victoria Nile had shown theu' incontestable superiority ; therefore he expended all the wealth of his treasury in acquning powder and guns, and opened the barriers of his own State to the Zanzibar merchants, although adverse to them by jealousy and superstition. Strengthened by the new weapons, and surrounded by hundreds of fusiliers, he felt convinced that he was the most powerful monarch in the world. His heroes saluted him with discharges of blank cartridge, and he meditated distant conquests, commanded numerous raids for slaves and cattle, challenged the once-feared Uganda warriors, and assumed the right of arbitrator amonofst the tribes of the Lake district. The military party became preponderant in Unyoro, and the hanassura were considered indispensable for the preservation and grandeur of the kingdom ; their numbers were increased to three thousand. They undertook to defend the throne and enforce the laws ; thus, in the end every one's life and property were at their mercy, and their misdeeds were not only un- punished, but often even openly defended. They boldly prosecuted the guilty, and also the innocent in their eagerness to confiscate valuable property, and to perform summary executions ; they were very audacious in their raids, and did not tolerate any authority except that of then- worthy chiefs. They had neither feelmgs MILITARY INFLUENCE. 63 of honour nor love for the country in which they were strangers ; in war they were rather unrestrained pilla- gers than brave soldiers. The king did not give them any direct recompense for their services, except sup- plying them with arms ; but he allowed them to appro- priate the goods of culprits, real or suspected. In this matter he exceeded every limit of decency ; justice became a jest, impunity from punishment was sold,^ innocence and honesty were forced to pay a high price for safety. Moreover, the king, compliant and sur- rounded by the intrigues of the confederates, was as powerless to oppose them as to escape from them, and continued to maintain his ancestral glory by audacious and adventurous enterprises abroad, in order to satisfy their ever increasing avidity ; and the circle of blood that surrounded him and separated him from his subjects more and more every day, increased enormously. The guardianship of the king's dwelling by day and night and of public ceremonies, as well as the super- vision of Government councils and administration of justice, were given up to military influence, and the chiefs, who were rather companions in his nightly orgies than subjects of the king, obtained the most insane and odious orders from his half- intoxicated Majesty, which had already been plotted in their private meetings. Chua acted as they required, re- joicing only in displaying the pomp of his own power and person to his people, who, faithful to the traditional awe of his ancestors, not only applauded but venerated the king. Movement is life, and even uncivilised nations are now and then influenced by internal com- motions of greater or less importance, which gradually alter their usages and customs, and unconsciously open the way for new ideas, which, even if partly erroneous and inconsistent, change the character of the inhabi- 64 TEN YEARS IX EQUATORIA. tants and the customs of the country. There is a tendency everywhere to part unwilhngly with old ways of governing and Kving, and if an attempt at theii' revival takes place, it is not only ephemeral, but crushes in its fall all the sophistry which was instru- mental in bringing it forward, so that only that which is good and true triumphs permanently in the end. Instruments of Providence, the chiefs are unconscious of the aim towards which they move, and woe to them if they could perceive it. In theii' superstitious ignor- ance they would recoil horrified ; they rush on because their interest, vanity, or fear compel them. When I w^ent to Unyoro, the king, although he mistrusted us, was bent nevertheless upon a more or less friendly policy, which he considered as beneficial to the kinodom and himself Takinof advantag^e of these propitious circumstances, we obtained permission for the arrival of the merchant Biri from Uganda, for the passage of correspondence, and for sending a message of peace to King Muanga. If this state of aftairs had continued, the barriers of the kingdom would have been opened ; freedom of travelling and its beneficial results would have been accomplished facts. " But such friendship leads to ruin," exclaimed all the leaders of the soldiers, and the king was perhaps glad of an opportunity for returning to his old hatred and mistrust, sacrificing his minister, and adopting the policy of falsehood and treachery. The military party resumed its influence in the management of Government afiau's, with the fuU approbation of the king, who began to think he had committed a great political error when, forgetting the offensive conduct of the Egyptian Government, he had clasped the hand oftered to him by the Governor of Equatoria. Then dualism, with its sad consequences, WAR WITH UGANDA. 65 began to weigh heavily upon the country. The evicted owners of land secretly plotted against the soldiers who trampled on them, and were ready to rise if they only had an opportunity. But fear, and respect for the sacred person of the monarch, who was not only alive, but reigning, prevented them. At the commencement of this sad period the most foolish projects were conceived and executed. But they all proved failures, bringing shame upon the king's advisers and champions. The war against Uganda was projected, but the landowners refused then- acquiescence. " You have your banassura and your guns," they said; " you have entrusted your defence, and that of your kingdom, to them for some time ; now send them to war." That was the answer given by the chiefs and people at the war council summoned by the great nuggare. But war had become inevitable on account of the young king Muanga, of Uganda. It was of short duration, but it sadly impressed King Chua's mind. One day, when the intensity of his anguish tore aside the veil of illusions, he caused the following words to be conveyed to me : — " My banassura like raids, because they profit by them. They are opposed to war, and contend that the territory should be defended by the landowners. I am a native of the east, and I would fain have returned to the country of my ancestors, if possible, without waiting for the result of the war." When the king spoke in this manner he was under the influence of fear, discouragement, and doubt ; but as soon as the danger was over he resumed his usual audacity. *' The spirit of his father," he said, " had guided his VOL. II. E 66 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. warriors, blessed the campaign, and still held his hand over him." And as if mad, he deviated farther still from the ancient mode of governing, ruling by oppression and treachery, rather than by reason ; and to their united powers confiding the integrity and safety of the State. My isolation was complete (March 6, 1887). I remained alone at Juaya with my domestics, two Government soldiers, and two of the king's hanassura, whose instructions were to watch me rather than to render me any service. The die was cast. The kingf was crossing- the Rubicon, and had thrown off the mask. The party who had advocated execrable measures in the Council of January 25, had triumphed. Thenceforth, no more subterfuges, plotting, and ambiguous words were em- ployed, but the rupture of every intercourse with Europeans, and the aggressions on the Govermnent territories, were manifested openly. King Chua's former policy, ambiguous, but timid and cautious, was given up and replaced by the frivolous, rapacious, and profligate proceedings of the hanas- sura. However, our affau-s, in spite of so much animosity, were progressing favourably for the objects we had in view. At the beginning of the year hostile measures against us had been agreed upon by the principal people of the kingdom ; but my fii'st care was to assure the transmission and reception of our correspondence to and from Uganda. In this attempt I received the courageous and cordial co-operation of a certain Ahmed Akkad, an Arab from Oman, who had settled in Unyoro for commercial purposes. Thanks to him, we easily found messengers, who, for rewards in ivory, would take our letters to Mr. Mackay (agent of the British WATCHED BY GUARDS. 67 mission), and faithfully bring us those from Uganda. Suspected of intercourse with me, Ahmed Akkad was sentenced to banishment from the kingdom. But it was easy for me to obtain the revocation of the sentence throuo^h the mediation of the wicked Abd Rehman. We did not purchase cloth and other goods in any considerable quantities, for the merchants' prices were too high, and also, because Biri's caravan was on the point of entering Unyoro ; but for our most urgent needs it was an easy matter to elude the vigilance of the guards stationed even at nig-ht on the bank of the stream which separated us from the quarter occupied by the merchants. The most perplexing and important ques- tion remained ; that is to say, we wanted to learn the foreign news, and still more to hear of the plots which were being concocted in the royal residence in rapid succession ; but among the natives, and even the king's guards, there were volunteers and paid in- formers who undertook the dangerous task, so that every plot against us came to my knowledge as soon as it was projected, and before any attempt at carrying- it out could be made. Although I was compelled to remain in my residence, watched by guards upon all sides, and every action spied upon, I managed to avail myself of a courageous Dinka boy, Avho, under the pre- tence of making some purchases in the market, cleverly found a way of speaking to our friends, and carrying out all our wishes. Being advised by him to grant interviews, I received nocturnal visits, after preparing the way for them, which was, I am sorry to say, by intoxicating my guards. I was not only informed of all that was useful to our interests, but also of the scandals and proceedings in the royal residence. As soon as the Government settled at 68 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. Muimba, the first nocturnal attacks upon my dwelling began. On April 28 I complained to the king about an attack which had been perpetrated the previous night, but he answered, smiling, " Shoot the thieves ; night marauders of that description are not my subjects." And as a confirmation of the royal dis- approbation, the following day had scarcely closed when the unpleasant visit was renewed and repeated for several months at various intervals. Thev were onlv interrupted at the time of the Waganda invasion. Having been informed that these nefarious attacks had been inspired by the royal Court, either to frighten me and cause my departure, or, worse still, perhaps to remove me as a hostile spy, conspirator, or enemy, I showed an indifierent, and even smihng countenance to those who troubled me with their curiositv ; but I increased my precautions during the night, which was difficult and painful work, as it spoilt the leisure of my servants and soldiers, but was chiefly carried out by myself with marvellous success, for I frustrated no less than eight attempts. It was a rainy night ; watch was to be kept by a young man who was easily overcome by sleep. I usually went out of my hut at different times (tor- mented by insomnia and the continual uncertainty of impending danger), in order to test not only the vigilance but also the fidelity of my sentry. Having seized my gun, I went out in the open and approached the lad, who was sitting down with his chin touching his breast, and having shaken him abruptly, recom- mended him to be more vigilant. Suddenly the noise of a heavy object moving close by, reached my ears. Turning round I saw the confused outline of several lions, and first fired in theii' direction and then at random. Complete silence ensued. Next morning we THE KING'S ACCUSATIONS. 69 ascertained that a visit had been paid us by a whole family of lions. The poor lad, who had had such a narrow escape of his life, smiled, but with his lips quivering with fear. ^ ^ ^ ^ The king's peremptory order to depart from Juaya had not been obeyed by all the Arab merchants, and this fact irritated the suspicious despot, whom Jiis perverse courtiers succeeded in inciting to fresh rigom's and excessive interference. On April 17, 1887, a detachment of banassura in- vaded the merchants' village, and drove away masters, servants, women, and children with clubs. Thev then fired the houses, collected the people like cattle, and with scorn and ill-treatment led them to Muimba, where they were compelled to obtain pardon from the royal clemency : these poor victims resigned themselves to the loss of their wealth, in order to save their lives. On March 30, 1887, the king had accused me of con- spiring against him. I did not attempt to defend myself, but answered his charge with a contemptuous smile. April 7, an armed expedition started for the conquest of the banks of the Victoria Nile, a region subject to the chief Anfina, and abandoned to the ambitious desires of the Unyoro king, by the impolitic concession of the Governor of Equatoria. On the 25th, a guard was stationed by the river Kafu to watch all arrivals from Uganda and seize our correspondence. On May 2, Biri's servant was arrested, stripped, and flogged on the road as he was pi'eceding his master, who was travelling towards Unyoro. Nor was this all, for on May 11, the king sent a letter to Emiii full of charges against me, with the object of obtaining my recall. And whilst, with pharisaical compunction, he appealed to " his friend the Doctor," he ordered the 70 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. chiefs Babedongo, Ireta, and Makavaro to muster a large force in order to seize the steamer at Kibiro, invade the Shooli country, and make a combined attack upon Wadelai. But man projDoses and God disposes. I had already informed Emin, some time previously, of the audacious plot, and he had consequently taken the necessary measures for defence, and entered into alliance with various chiefs on the banks of the Nile. Warned afterwards by me of the probable date when the King of Unyoro's troops would cross the river, Emin at once concentrated there a large number of regular soldiers and black troops, placing the steamers on the Albei't Lake, a little above the mouth of the river. On June 1, the king invited me to an interview at Muimba. The larg-e villao-e was enlivened bv an un- usual bustle ; people were walking about excitedly questioning one another ; caravans were removing the household furniture : women hurried away with supplies of corn, and babies across their right hij) (held by their hand under the armpit), and herds of cows were on the road proceeding northwards. I reached the square in front of the king's residence, and was told bv a hanassio-a, that the Sovereign could not receive me at that moment as he was busy making preparations for the journey of his wives and children towards Mruli, on account of the appearance of a Wa- ganda army on the borders. The long procession of large and small caravans occupied three hours in issuing from the king's palace, armed men preceding and following each section of it. In the centre of the cohnnn was a palanquin, made of ox hide, fixed on two poles, upon which one of the royal wives sat wrapped in a bright coloured mantle of peculiar pattern, surrounded by the women of the household and by female slaves carrying MOVING THE KING'S FAMILY. 71 provisions and kitchen utensils ; some leading little children by the hand, or dragging a dog or recalcitrant goat. It was a scene of - deafening uproar ; greetings and songs, confused beating of drums, shaking hands, and faces saddened by transitory weeping, that was suddenly succeeded by the habitual smile. A crowd gathered at the king's door, and a cry of astonishment was uttered by everybody, as a womg^n, almost a shapeless mass of flesh, with immense limbs, and small eyes, sitting on a sort of sedan-chair, larger than the preceding one, and supported by stouter poles, was being carried across the royal threshold by four stalwart men. She was one of King Chua's obese women. In the Courts at Uganda and Unyoro, the possession of obese wives is considered a thino- worthv of the O -J royal splendour. Such a luxury is considered as the emblem of wealth and as of extraordinary comeliness, for the possession of whom the monai'ch is particularly ambitious and greatly envied. This corpulency is attained by a special diet, regularlv administered both as regards time and quantity. The accumulation of fat gradually proceeds so as to render the person unable to stand up ; those who are afflicted by it are compelled to walk on their hands and knees, and even then they move with great difficulty. After waiting some time, I was at last admitted to Makama's presence. He was sitting upon a large chair, with a sulky countenance, moving his feet rest- lessly, and convulsively grasping the edge of the mantle which covered him from his waist to his feet. The courtiers, with bowed heads, hardly dared to look at each other. There was a long pause, and then at last the storm burst, and the king, forgetting the customary etiquette, addressed me vehemently in 72 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. Arabic, accusing me of conspiring with the Governor of Equatoria to ruin him and his kingdom. What had happened? .... The steamers had suddenly appeared on the Victoria Nile, and the Expedition of the Wanyoro, which had already com- menced to cross the river, had scarcely had time to retire. The natives' boats had been captured and destroyed, the chief Rokora had been driven from his own village, which was burnt, and some natives and banassura had been killed by the soldiers : these were the king's charges. The fact was not new to me ; I was only astonished at the failure of the Government Expedition due to the commander's want of abihty. The difficulty which surrounded us increased, and my personal position might become very perilous. I concealed mv thoughts durincj the above string of charges, thanked the king for his attention in giving me such news, and begged him not to arrive at too hasty a conclusion respecting the facts, adding that the provocation to war might have been caused by Rokora's obstinacy in remaining in a country which was not his own, and mentioned that I myself had advised him several times not to risk difficult enter- prises, and that the lesson which had been infficted upon him might turn to his own benefit. Then he became still more gloomy and sulky, his eyes being reddened with fury. " Have you not usurped my territories of Tunguru and Msua on the Lake ? " he asked. " No, your majesty, we have occupied those two points with your consent." " And you have appropriated them." " No, they are still part of your kingdom ; some day we shall give them up, but we cannot do so just now. You gave us permission to pass through Unyoro, and CHUA DEFIES CASATI. 73 you have not oiily prevented us from doing so, but have also intercepted our correspondence, therefore the Lake route is indispensable to us." " What you assert is not true. I have never inter- fered with your letters." " Why do you keep those seized at Kafu by Babe- dongo a few days ago, instead of delivering them to me ? " " I have none of vour letters." " Why is Biri still on the border awaiting your order to enter the kingdom ; an order a hundred times promised but not given ? " "As to the Turk, I have ah'eady taken the necessary measures ; he will come in a few days." " And the letters ? " " I have none." " Yes, you have them." " Well, yes ; but I will never give them up." " Your declaration is enough ; I do not want the letters. One day, perhaps, somebody more powerful than I will settle the matter with you." "Who?" " Said Barghash, for example." " I am not afraid of him." I moved in order to rise, but the king invited me to sit down. He said he was sorry to see me angry, and would speak to his minister about the letters. Our conversation then turned upon various subjects, and I left when the sun was already under the horizon. In order to reach Juaya, one had to travel for three hours in the midst of lonely country and marshy valleys, covered with cane plants. The king's persistence in advising me to delay my departure, his whispering to some of his guards — the moving to and fro of the latter — appeared to me a series of ominous signs after the 74 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. grave offence given by the events that had happened on the Victoria Nile ; therefore, after having M^alked a few steps, I begged the two hanassura who were to accompany me to return and tell the king that I wished two vessels of good beer as a present. The two drunkards leaped for joy, and quickly went to him. I took advantage of their absence, to have my two guns loaded, which I had close at hand (carried by a faithful lad of mine and a Soudanese soldier), giving them summary instructions as to their behaviour along the road. Having arrived near a hill where the road, sloping, was hidden by high gi-ass and thick reedy ferns, leading to a difficult and entangled marsh, I heard the well-known voices of my servants ; they were alarmed at the unusual lateness of our return, and, being encouraged by one of the women, they all, soldiers, boys, and women, came out in search of us, and we were lucky indeed ! For, later on, one of the two hanassura who accompanied us that night, said to that very woman, " Accursed sorceress, if thou hadst not been alive, thy master would not be here to give us the trouble of busvino- ourselves for his sake." Preparations for invading Unyoro had been in progress for some time. The presents sent by King Chua did not seem worthy of a great potentate's accept- ance ; such at least was the opinion of that little tyrant of Uganda, who, with his usual precipitation, assembled bands of armed warriors to invade, lay waste, and conquer Unyoro, and take prisoner its Sovereign, who had cracked numerous jokes about " the young man who was ignorant of the art of governing." As long as the danger was distant the braggadocios of Unyoro deafened everybody with their boasts and audacious schemes. When they heard, however, that the Baga- nghese district was invaded (June 9, 1887), their brag FLIGHT OF THE KING. 75 ceased as if by magic, and their only thought was of saving themselves, their women, children, and goods. On June 20 the king abandoned Muimba, and retired to Nparo (not far from Juaya), on account of the aggressive march of the Waganda. He then sent me several messengers, with a peremptory order to prepare to retrace my steps towards the Government provinces immediately. From the messengers' abrupt manner FLIUUT OF KING CHUA. and sardonic countenances it was easy to see what were the king's intentions. I replied that I would not go unless the goods which Biri had brought from Uganda, and the ivory in my premises, were safely deposited at Kibiro ; but at 5 p.m. another messenger arrived, bringing from the king an unopened letter, which the Governor had sent a few days previously, and repeating the order to depart from the kingdom, with threats in case I ventured to disobey. He would not have anv further intercourse with us, " who," he said, 70 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOKIA. i " were good for nothing else than offering him idle words of encouragement and compliments when his kingdom was in danger." It was a decisive moment, and hesitation would have been fatal. I took my Winchester rifle and one hundred cartridges, and sent them to the king as an opportune present, wishing him a speedy and complete victory. This was an effort to gain a point. If the king refused it, the game was lost — the cloth and the ivory on the road would have been forfeited ; but if he accepted it, we at least gained time, and the continuation of the arrangement which connected us with the civilised world, however imperfect and precarious that might be. Next morning, before sunrise, I received a visit from the same messenofer whom I had seen on the previous evening, and he invited me to go to Nparo at once, to meet the king. I did not delay one moment, and was received most cordially and joyfully by him. He thanked me for the gift of my rifle, and added that it clearly showed the interest I took in his success, and also that my intention to remain, while the Arabs had all fled at the first rumours of war, convinced him of the Governor's loyalty. He granted me permission to remain at Juaya, or to go to any other place in his kinofdom. I also obtained a messenger to convev mv letters to Wadelai, and the concession that Bii'i was to travel to Kibiro, together with the provisions collected, and thence to the residence of the Governor of Equatoria. We won once more, and our numerous enemies migfht well bite their fino-ers. But thev had other matters to attend to, for the rapacious Waganda were on the point of attacking them. On the 22nd of June the king sent me a message, asking whether I had any guns to sell him ; but I answered that it was not becoming for me to act as a A WAGANDA DEPUTATION. 77 merchant, and sent him a g-ood percussion u'un as a present. On the 23rd he retired to Guamirma, whence he took refuofe in the midst of the woods of Bidono^o, near ancient Masindi. On June 27 the first battles took place in the neighbourhood of Muimba. There were numerous fusiliers. The blacks fled at the approach of hostilities, and the country became deserted by its inhabitants. On the 29th, Muimba was abandoned arid burnt. On the 30th, and July 1, there were fights at Nparo and on the road to Masindi, and on the 3rd the entire invading army appeared at Juaya. The column, which was a long one, descended the Moranda hills, and passed in front of my residence, on which the Egyptian Government flag was hoisted. The Wanyoro had suddenly ceased fighting in the neighbour- hood of Nparo, and had succeeded in deceiving the enemy by means of a sham retreat. The Waganda then began to look for King Chua, who was generallv believed to have reached the Ruwengabi-Coanga forest, in the Kiriangobi territory, but on their questioning- me about it I confirmed their impression, which I kneAV was erroneous. If I had chosen to put an end to the tyrant's existence, a word or gesture would have been sufiicient ; but although my life had been continually plotted against, I would not act otherwise than as a loyal guest. Next day a Waganda deputation brought the greet- ings of Oakibi, their general.* Kauto, their chief, ofiered to escort me to Uganda, but I thanked him and declined, though we entered into negotiations for the occupation of Kibu-o, and for a future alliance, should Oakibi's arms eventually prove successful, and Unyoro be occupied for a long period. The missionaries of Usukuma assured me that on that occasion Kauto * The Waganda call their commander-in-chief Kangao. 78 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. had received an order from Muanga to take my life, and that I owed my safety to the numerous Waganda Christians, who had been warned, and warmly entreated by the Uganda missionaries to do their best to defeat that horrible machination. On July 5 the Wanvoro attacked the Waganda. There were fights at Kiba- raro, Mount Sedgiomocoro, and on the banks of the MV NEliOTlATIO.NS WITH THE CHIEFS OF UtiAXUA. Ngussi, with varying fortune, but finally the Waganda marched towards the Baganghese district, and, July 19, the kingdom of Unyoro was clear of invaders. The Waganda army consisted of about 6000 men of all ages, from 15 to 60, with the greatest contrast of armament and dress. There were the king's guards in their white robes, with leopard skin and red cloth cartridge belts glittering, and heavy percussion guns, and the simple mountaineers armed with bludgeons, THE WAGANDA ARMY. 79 whose only dress was a rug made of bark fibres, hung round the loins. Between these extreme types, fancy an innumerable variety of old guns, shields, spears, worn-out and discoloured garments, and the traditional mantles of ox hide, or fig bark ; glass ornaments and armlets, mostly consisting of ox or goat horn, with the famous conjuring powder. This was the army of the Waganda ; this multitude was divided into corps, each commanded by a chief, easily recognisable by his better attire and finer ornaments, besides the nuggare carried behind him. Faithful to the idea of scattering themselves, in order to find food with greater facility, they covered immense tracts of land in their raids ; but their depredatory instinct caused them to diverge too far, so that at the time of a fight most of them are distant from the spot where it occurs. For their object is more to plunder and spread misery than to struggle against the foe and acquire a reputation for valour, so that they search the dwellings and the matamure, seizing as booty everything they can carry away, and burning what remains, together with the huts. Goods such as tobacco or stuffs they consign to the flames, and they scatter corn or pulse amongst the high grass. They throw themselves upon the cultivated fields, and, having gathered sufficient food for the day, they pull down, upset, and destroy everything else ; therefore starvation soon overtakes them, and compels them to shorten the duration of an invasion, thus reducing- to nought whatever plan or bold enterprise they have formed. They are fierce in battle, but only as long as reserves are in the rear ready to strengthen the weak and threatened positions ; for should they be unsupported or hard pressed they quickly take to flight. The death 80 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. of a chief also has a discouraging effect upon them. On the march, in camp, starting, and in the heat of a fight the deafening noise of the innumerable ituggare inspires them with courage. With such an army, it is obvious that the ambitious di'eams of the lord of Uganda, and his desire to possess Unyoro, were very nearly hopeless. Chua possessed more than one thousand guns, and they were in the hands of his guards, the hanassura, who formed the army which fought against the Waganda, because the so-called landowners, who were only armed with a lance and shield, did not take part in it for various reasons. The arms of the banassura consisted of a large number of Remington rifles, a few Sniders, and a good many percussion muskets, either gathered from the deserters from the Egvptian Govern- ment or acquired from the Lango, who had several times defeated the soldiers. There Avere also some good breech and muzzle loaders bougfht from Zanzibar merchants. The ancient and traditional tactics of the Wanyoro, are not to undertake serious engagements, and not to attack the enemy in a wooded country, but to prepare ambuscades in suitable places and then to harass him by sudden halts, in order to entice him to the places where the ambushes had been laid ; but it cannot be affirmed that the hanassura practised such tactics successfully. Alarmed by the excessive number of enemies, and irritated by the refusal of the natives to join them, disheartened by their sufferings in the recent invasion upon the borders of the Victoria Nile, and still more impressed by the probability of being attacked in the rear by the soldiers of Equatoria, their compulsory retreat of May being still fresh in their minds — when the war-cry was raised CHUA NEEDS AN ALLY. 81 they (lid not, for these reasons, muster in full force, nor did they behave in such a warlike manner as to deserve a good military reputation. On July 7 Emin passed Kibiro, on his way to the Msua station on the western shore of the Albert Lake. This terrified the Wanyoro ; and the king, who was at Buemba, on the banks of the river Kafu, witji the object of placing an ambush for the retreating enemy, hurried precipitately to Kiani-Cassangora near Mruli for refuge, feeling certain that the country would be invaded by the Soudanese soldiers of Equatoria. From that place he announced to me that he was readv to enter into negfotiations about the long projected alliance. I made known to him (in the Governor's name), through his messenger, our im- mutable decisions, which were, either alliance confirmed by exchange of blood, or a concession for us too ccupy Kibiro and the plateau of Kitana, because the freedom of our communications with Uganda was indispens- able to us. In view of such an audacious proposal the gi'andees and military chiefs raised a tumul- tuous agitation, and decided to demand of the king my expulsion from the country, and the breaking off of all intercourse with the Government of Equatoria. But the Sovereign declined to carry out such resolutions, and on August 2 sent me presents, and a message, " My son will exchange blood with you. I want an ally, and accept your proposal. The last war into which I was led by the pernicious advice of Abd Behman and the ambition of the grandees and the hanassura was inconsiderate and foolish. I am the king, and my will is law. Ancient Juaya shall be rebuilt, and I will take up my abode close by you. Son of the great Kamrasi, my lip was never soiled by a falsehood." VOL. n. F ( 8-' ) CHAPTER V. KABBA REGA'S HOSTILITY. Occupation of the region on the left bank of the Victoria Nile — Katongoli. the Lango man — A child as a holocaust — Guakamatera, prime minister of King Chua — "The king has ordered me to watch von"— The king reiterates his promises — Neither a single piece of ivory nor a cartridge — The guards' refusal — Attempt by night — Great imprudence — The king wishes me to become his guest — The merchant Hamis — Exchange of victims — The Victoria Nile placed in a position of defence — Sacred boats — Young students — Emin leaves on a visit to the northern stations — I ask for frequent despatch of messengers and steamers — Prisoners in Juaya — The raids at Menakulia— A caravan of Karagua people — Communications with Knfu and Kibiro are forbidden — Delusive hope — The 10th of December 1887 — Noble conduct of an enemy — Adnce given to Biri — The 31st of December 1887 — I think of a friend — The king's wickedness against him — Stanley has arrived — Guakamatera's strange proposal — A goat and a fowl — The great drum gives no sound — A set trap. The King of Unyoro decided upon the definite occupation of the countries on the Victoria Nile, formerly independent States, governed by Anfina, and Kamissua, the son and heir of chief Rionga. " We were defeated near the g'reat river, owiiiij to the protection bestowed by our soldiers upon the Shefalu ; but I was able to find out the secret con- spiracy. The Great Kann-asi had iimted us to under- take the enterprise ; he had sent his son as an augm-v and guarantee of victory." Thus spoke the king at a public meeting at IVIi-uli ; and Katongoli, a gigantic man of proved courage and savage ferocity, worthy of the Laiigo-Umiro tribe, had the leadership of the war. In the region of the Equatorial lakes, it is believed THE PROPITIATION. 83 that any warlike enterprise is destined by supernatural power to have a glorious end, if a human victim be offered as a holocaust on the frontier of the enemy, and is neithei" insulted nor taken away from the spot by them. A child of unknown parents, stolen in a distant country, who, from his youth, is supposed to be pure and uncontaminated, is buried up to his shoulders on the road whicli the army must follow. Along the route the scouts cautiously proceed, silent and watchful, always in fear of the danger of ambuscades. The column follows at a distance. They discover the little head of the innocent victim from afar ; it leans on his shoulder — it is the head of a corpse — or perhaps, agonising, he still moves, uttering his last wailino-. The child being still there, according to their belief, was a sure sign of victory, and this was confirmed in their minds by the fact that the enemy had not even put in an appearance on the road, or expected an assault, whence thev inferred that there was nothing" to fear, and that ultimate victory was certain. And trustful, bold, and raising their courage by songs to the dishonour of the enemy, they march past the wretched child of propitiation. No one dares to succour him, nor even address a word of consolation, for fear of breaking the charm. Katongoli fell as a thunderbolt upon his enemies — discomfited them, and proclaimed the power of his king all along the left bank of the Victoria Nile — September 1887. In the court-yard of the palace at Kiani, all the grandees of the kingdom being present, the king appointed Guakamatera — one of the chiefs, who had distinguished himself in the war with the Waganda 84 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. people — to be prime minister of the kingdom, and presented him with the axe, an emblem of justice, saying : " Make use of it with the greatest severity, against those who stublx)rnly refuse obedience and respect." Guakamatera took up his abode at Juava, near the river Kavarongli, and from thence sent me this message : " The king has appointed me chief of the country during his stay at Mruli, and has ordered me to take care of you ; you will let me know your wants. You are at liberty to pin-chase goods from any of the natives, as well as from Zanzibar merchants. I want to know you persoualh' ; foi' the present I send vou my regards." An envoy from the king brought me liis royal salutations, and repeated and confirmed his decision to enter upon a compact of alliance and to inaugurate a new order of thingfs in the kingdom. This was, perhaps, a sign of better times to come, of which I ought to have taken advantage; the oppor- tunity, if missed, might disappear as easily as it had appeared. Obviously, as there was a struggle between two parties, our interest was to give our help, clearl}'', immediately, and um^eservedly, in order to turn the balance in favour of that party which had become friendly to us. I urged the Governor to send presents, to keep up frequent correspondence, and have trust in my work. The situation required an early answer ; as I did not receive any, I m"ote, frankly : " If it is urgent, indis- pensable, and of the greatest importance, to make sure of the transit through Unyoro for the present, as well as for the future, a regular service of correspondence must be established. If the matter has only a relative, secondary, and dispensable importance, let us permit IMPRUDENCE OF BIRI. 85 tilings to go as they will, as I consider it of no use to sacrifice myself any longer." Emin was offended — as if I had meant to blame him, or usurp his power. His answer was : "I will not give a single piece of ivory, nor a cartridge, before blood brotherhood has been concluded." Our enemies were on the watch. Babedongo ^nd Matunzi, two military chiefs, were getting round Guakamatera to alienate him from us ; the guards appointed for my service refused to accompany the soldier who was to carry letters to Wadelai. On the 1 7th of October, four armed men attempted to kill me during the night, but they had to fly on account of the uninterrupted watch I used to keep, even during days of hope. A messenger I sent to the king never i-eturned. Guakamatera was summoned to a secret council of the influential men, under the presidency of the Sovereign The month of October was an apparently calm one, but the silence that surrounded us on all sides was the forerunner of furious hostilities. In the early part of November 1887, to make the situation more difficult and dangerous, notwithstanding the refusal I had sent him, Biri came to see me. He had been at Wadelai since July on his way to Uganda. That visit was a fatal imprudence, which caused him to be included in the schemes plotted against me. Entering Unyoro without the king's permission or orders is considered a great crime, an offence to the sacred majesty of the king, and the punishment inflicted on the offender is generally death. On the 11th of November, Guakamatera informed me of the king's anger at such proceedings, and, whilst promising his support for Biri's journey to Uganda, he expressed the king's wishes to have me as a guest for 8(5 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. a few days. I have* no doubt that it was a snare ; nevertheless, had I had at my disposal the presents asked for so many times (not to increase my personal influence, but for the general welfare), I should have risked the chances of the visit. At one time T had made the black king at Nparo smile with the sjilendour of a Winchester rifle ! That Kino- C/hua would not have hesitated to remove any obstacle in order to avenge his oftended dignity, was not only probable but certain ; it had been shown by a recent event. Hamis, a merchant, went towards the territorv of Mboga, on the right bank of the Semliki, for his own business, having been tacitly authorised to do so by the chief Babedongo, who had recently become his friend. The king, being informed of it, sent for one of his bravos, and ordered him to pursue the merchant, murder him, and take away the goods he had with him. The victim was overtaken without delay, and im- prisoned in a hut, prudence inducing the assassin to perpetrate his crime during the night ; but Hamis escaped and hastened to throw himself at the king's feet. " You wish to kill me," he said ; "well, then, avenge vourself ; " but the kino- not at all embarrassed bv the failure of his scheme, called the fellow, saying : " Why did you want to murder this defenceless man? " " Because such was your command," answered he. "Who would dare to toucli a foreigner without your order \ " The faithful emissary was put to death. The king's word, however, was not enough to enable the merchant to consider himself quite safe, and, without taking any further care of his business, he left immediately for Uganda. TRANSPORT OF KIXG CHUAS CANOES. THE CANOES CARRIED. 87 The king, being now master of the Victoria Nile, gave great attention to fortifying' suitable points on it for its defence and for the concentration of troops. He mustered a gi'eat number of boats in the protected locality, in order to prepare all that was required for the passage of numerous soldiers to the opposite bank. Out of caprice he ordered that two canoes of extra- ordinary size, built in the Kiriangobi forest, should be carried from the shore of the Albert Lake to Mruli on the Nile. The enterprise was not an easy one ; steep hills, intricate woods, and rivers with high banks, interrupted the great distance between the two places in a thousand ways ; but the king's will was law. It was said that a baby and a pot of milk were found at the bottom of the tree from which the large boat, called ngata, had been made. This strange and marvellous story attracted hunch-eds of earnest workers, who swore that they would launch on the Nile, not onlv the larger canoe, but also its fellow-boat of smaller dimensions. Amidst rejoicings and copious draughts of beer (after many days' work interrupted by festivities), the two boats were triumphantly carried to the appointed spot. It is true that many lives were lost in the transit, but the king's whim was satisfied and numerous pre- sents were showered on Guakamatera, the dii-ectoi- of the pious enterprise. Everything concurred to render it more obvious that Chua, having repented his promises, had again given way to the customary polities of intrigue and deceit. The pressure of his faithful servants and the un- certainty and carelessness on our part had encouraged him, but he hesitated to proceed to open violence. A thread, though a thin one, still bound him to us. From the first day of my stay in Unyoro, six youths 8H TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. belonging to the best families of the kingdom liad ou my advice been sent to Wadelai to receive Hterary instruction at that school. Two of the pupils had died of small-pox during the epidemic which ravaged the country in the last months of 1886 ; the other four were still attending the school, to their benefit, and the satisfaction of their teachers. The king had several times ex})ressed a wish to see the young st\idents for a short time, and 1, without giving a formal refusal, had always encoin-aged Emin to keep those jjrecious hostages, as a check on an}' wicked intention of the kino-. But on the 1st of November, Emin sent back the four lads from Kibiro, and at the same time in- formed me that, by request of the officers and employes of the first battalion, he purposed visiting the northern stations in the hope of restoring order among the troops, and bringing them to reason. At the close of the letter he hinted at his expectation of persuading those peo})le, by telling them that the firman for the title of Pasha had been conferred upon him, as the letters of the Egyptian Government had amiounced in a despatch from the British Consul General at Zanzibar, which I had forwarded to him. I answered Emin that, notwithstanding the ever increasintr danger threatenino- om- safetv, I was ready to do all in niv power to help him in his painful situa- tion. I advised him to gi*ant a general pardon to some officers and officials, punished too severely, and to rid himself of the Major connnanding in Dufile, because he had been the author of the prolonged disorders. I exhorted him to keep in mind the wickedness of King Chua, which was not less than that of his advisers ; a disposition which could only be checked by impressing fear on his cowardly mind ; I requested him, therefore, to order that a messenger should, without fail, be sent DANGER AND ANXIETY. 89 to Kibiro every week, and that every fortnight a steamer should anchor there, with the express order to await my consent for its departure ; and I added that he had better send me, at once, choice elephants' tusks and a case of cartridges as presents for the king. Emin wrote, promising to do all I had asked him, and left Kibiro. On the 2nd of December I sent a messenger with the finnan and Government letters to Kibiro. No courier had arrived from the Pasha ; no steamer had made its appearance in the roadstead. Even now, whilst I am writing, the I'emembrance of those days makes me shiver and affects my heart and mind with grief. Violence was substituted for intrigue, and crime ended the horrible drama. On the 28th day of November, Biri and a soldier were prevented by the hanassum from going to Nusranduru, a village where the merchants were resid- ing. To overcome this resistance was a question of dignity ; and almost resulted in a quarrel, but they were allowed to pass. The chiefs Babedongo and Guakamatera made raids on the boundaries of Uganda, in order to seize the Zanzibar couriers, waiting at Menakulia for the king's permission to enter Unyoro. A man named Meikambi was searched, robbed, and beaten, on the Kafu river, whilst on his journey back from Uganda with letters for us. A caravan of Karagua people was dispersed, and some of the party were arrested under the suspicion of conveying corres- pondence. Two men, named Rubanga and Katto, accused of supplying me with news concerning the king's affairs, were barbarously murdered. Ten rifles wei'e pre- 90 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. sented by the king to Ballula, a notorious Shooli chief in rebellion against the Government, who at the same time received instructions for an impending rebellion. A large number of soldiers were mustered ai-ound Juaya, on the road to the Kafu and Kibiro. We never heard from the king ; not a single friendly word was addressed to us ; the bold, grinning black faces of the three truards watching" us, everv moment reminded us of our pitiable condition. The sole relief from our distress was the hope of the longed-for arrival of a steamer from Kibu-o, to defeat all designs made against us, and to delav our complete ruin. Every evening we used to retu-e with this illusion, and every morning we woke to witness a new scene of the drama, which was quicklv approaching its end. Vain hopes ! The steamei's had remained guarding Dufile, and had afterwards taken the Governor back to Wadelai, for, being threatened with imprisonment by his soldiers, he had had to escape bv night from Kirri. The departure of the steamer from Wadelai had been postponed on account of important repairs. The chinmeys and hulks had been varnished like new. for show at the approaching vovage on the lake. Matters went on like this till the 10th of December, on the evening of which day we were told of the fate awaitinof us, bv a servant of the merchants. At Kiani, near Mruli, in the great audience hall, in presence of all the great men (who always assembled on emergencies), as well as of Abd Rehman, the evil genius, a banassura made most serious accusations against me before the king, declaring that I despised the Sovereign and intrigued against him ; that I spread a propaganda of lebellion ; had secret intercourse with A JUST ENEMY. 91 Muanga ; was plotting to dethrone Chua ; and that I had gathered armed men in my house. Biri was accused of being my accompHce in the horrible plot. " I know," said the king, " and I know also what I must do." He sent for one of his bravos, and in a majestic tone, said : " Thou wilt tro to Babedonoo and relate to him what thou hast just heard. Tell hun that I order the white man's house to be surrounded, and he and the Turkish merchant to be sent away ; and, if necessary, to kill them both. Tell him to fear not, as I will take the respon- sibility." Three days afterwards, the messenger communicated the king's wishes and orders to Babedongo, but the former promptly answered : " Return to Makama and tell him to entrust this aflPair to some one else. He will have to repent of such an action assuredly. He has called the white man into the country, and he (the white man) has not given any reason for complaint. He only wishes to be allowed to receive letters from Uganda and to send some there, of which the king has been aware since the day of his arrival. " The justice loyally done me by a man who had always been one of my worst enemies, was the only relief left to me in my burdensome work and daily sufferings. I advised Biri to withdraw to Nusranduru among his friends, the Arabs. By their means and with presents, when away from me he could win Babe- dongo's favour, and avoid the danger now threatening him. Overwhelmed by grief, and mastered by anxiety 92 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. for his ivory (still at Kibiro), Biri could not make uj) his mind to anything. He wept, but lived in hope. On the 19th of December 1887, his servant, Manja- liva, on his return from having taken letters to the con- fines of Uganda, and now the bearer of correspondence, repeated and confirmed to him the news which the Arabs had sent ; but even then he did not come to any decision. The year closed with gloom}' prospects (31st December 1887). King Chua was on the point of throwing off the mask. He had failed in his contiinied attempts to get rid of me. as well as of the ties which he had volun- tarily contracted with the Government of Equatoria. His underhand intrigues had j^roved fruitless, and he remained as covetous as ever of the ivory and guns of the province, as well as of the possession of the Shooli. Now that he realised his strength in the positions on the Victoria Nile, and was certain of the alliance with the Shooli, owing to the rebel Ballula's friendship, and trusting also to the help of the Lango people, he intended to challenge the province, and. having a per- fect knowledtre of the weakness of the Government forces, was convinced that he would be successful in his attempt. The storm had already begim. The king was still at Juaya, again meditating flight, conflagration, and the whole series of deceptions which had made me so anxious for many months, and had been the cause of ofi'ief and ruin. I had gone to the royal audience, I do not remember for what reason. " Makamba,'' said Chua to an old man who was entering the place, " you come to see your friend, for 1 HOPES OF STANLEY'S ARRIVAL. 93 if he were not here you would never have thought of coining." " Friend, friend ; once you too used to call yourself his friend, " he answered. " Yes, it is true ; but since I have learned that he would cause the ruin of my kingdom, I am no longer his friend." / " What will you ? I am not yet persuaded that you are right." I remembered that man, and his words. It was necessary for me to find him. He had been kind, and might be useful to me. It was New Year's Day (1888), and as a matter of habit and necessity I wished my people to celebrate it with plenty of beer. My banassura, with a respectful manner for the occasion, were abundantly presented with drink, and soon fell under the influence of Bacchus. I then sent my faithful boy to make inquiries about good Makamba. In disgrace with his king, he had been banished beyond the Muenghe country, probably destined to the same end as the unfortunate Kategora. On January 3 a messenger from the chief Mboga stopped at Juaya for the night. He was going to Mruli, and brought news that in Lendu, on the way to the Walegga country, some Europeans had appeared, followed by many armed men dressed in the Zanzibar fashion. No doubt it was Stanley with the relief expedition. Our joy caused us to forget our sad condition. We entertained new hopes. I thought that the king would perhaps postpone the execution of his nefarious projects, and I was pleased to see poor Biri smile, he who had been drowned in sorrow for such a length of time, in fear of his life, for the safety of his family, and for the fate of his ivory. 94 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. Already since November 24, Guakamatera, through one of his confidants, had proposed for me to enter into the bond of blood, but secretly, as lie warned me, in order not to incur the kinof's ■^^Tath. I accepted the proposal with the utmost pleasure, like a wrecked sailor who clings to any piece of wood the waves throw within his reach. Such a length of time had elapsed that I had for- gotten the strange offer when, on the morning of the 4th of January 1888, the same man came, as the bearer of his chiefs wishes. After having had a pot of beer put on the gromid, he communicated to me with majestic gravity his master's decision to hasten the much desired ceremony. On the 6th of January he made his appearance again with a goat and a pair of fowls. He whispered to me : " To-niofht." " All right," I answered. " The Vizier," added he, " wants you to go by your- self; he is greatly frightened. When you hear the great nuggare beat, go to his house by the path along the stream." Astonished at so many conditions being imposed on me, I could hardly uttei- a word ; but I soon gi"ew cahn again, and quietly but resoluteh', looking straight in his face, I answered: " Tell the Vizier that to-night, when the nuggare are beaten, I shall be at his house. Thank him. and present my compliments to him." He bowed and left. I could clearly see that he was anxious to get away. Until then I had never mentioned the strange pro- position to Biri. But when the messenger had de- parted, I told him of it. GUAKAMATERA'S INVITATION. 95 " What do you think of doing?" said he, opening his eyes widely. " To go." " How?" he asked. " I will take the revolver with me." My boy, who had overheard the conversation, said : " Shall I go with you?" " If vou like. Biri will give you his revolver, and we will o^o too-ether. After all, the devil is not as black as he is painted. As we stand we might have a chance of leavino- some souvenir behind us. Let us trust in our oood star. If a steamer arrived at Kibiro to-dav we should be safe. It might, because news in Unyoro has wintjs." The goat and the two fowls were cooked during the day. The thought of the morrow did not worry us much as far as our meals were concerned. Neither during the evening nor in the night did we hear the drum. The hanassura Mohongoki arrived, whom I had sent on the 10th of December to inform the king that the false reports made to him about me had come to my knowledge ; and that I protested against the cowardice and meanness of my maligners, and appealed to his loyalty and justice. After some hesitation, he told me that, having delivered my message, the king told him that he was considering what was the best thing to do. The answer was too short and meaningless to be considered a sincere one. On the morning of the 8th, a magnoro of Mruli announced himself as an envoy from the king, with this message : " The resumption of hostilities with Uganda is im- pending, and I do not wish that Biri, my guest, should suffer any injuries. Guakamatera, being a faint- 96 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOEIA. hearted man, has lost my confidence, and is about to be punished. " You will go to Juaya, and make arrangements with the Pasha's representative." A meeting was arranged for the next day at the Vizier's residence. ( 97 ) CHAPTER VI. A NARROW ESCAPE. Sad farewell supper — Biri's illusions — " To-morrow I shall be with you " — Shall ■we turn back ? — The great priest of the Unyoro sorcerers — Opening of the royal gate — The signal is given — An unrestrained crowd — Tied to the trees — "Woe to you ! " — Orders to ray boy — Grief and alarm of Biri — A more fortunate soldier — I save my shoes — Our sufferings must not be relieved — Bought b}' means of a coat — Payment of services — Guakamatera at my residence — Confiscation of all property — Return of the conqueror — "Gobia, Gohia ! " — The place of execution — Meeting of my domestics — A piece of paper and a pencil — Flight — Followed and threatened — Kagoro protects us — At Kibiro — Lying message of Guakamatera — The breakage of a pipe — I give away my waistcoat — At the salt pits — From Tokongia — Ntiabo, the wife of the king — Kapidi,the cripple — Neither food nor passage — Driven to the woods — Dinka girl — A plate of beans — Fadl starts in a boat — " Mujungo, Mojungo ! '' — A colony of Lur — " We'll not kill you " — A happy meeting — " Man dies only by permission of God " — Discouragement subdues us — " The steamer ! the steamer ! " — On the shore of the lake — Refreshing sleep — The Khedive in sight — Fresh anxieties — We are saved. " Dear Biri, very probably this is the last time we shall sup together at Juaya," said I, turning- towards my guest, while we were sitting at our humble table. " But why ? " asked he ; "do you think that I will not return from Uganda ? I have promised to do so, and I mean to keep my word." " I do not mean that, but I am convinced that you will not go to Uganda." " For what reason ?" " For a very simple one ; to-morrow there will be no departure, but something much more serious." " What ! Do you believe that the arrival of the magnoro from Mruli is a mere fiction ? " VOL. n. G 98 TEN YEAES IN EQUATORIA. " Certainly." " And the permission to make arrangements for my return caravan ? " " Also fiction." " And why should these gentlemen deceive us ? " " To cause us to fall more easily into the net." " But since we are already in their hands, why so many subterfuges ? " " It is not strictly true that we are in their hands ; we are only their prisoners." " I don't understand you." " I will explain. Guakamatera has the order to do away with us ; nocturnal attempts have failed, as also the trick of blood-brotherhood ; for he was afraid. Now, since he has a peremptory order to deliver the king from our presence, he thinks that he may coax us with a proposal which, according to his idea, must meet with our full consent. If he obtained our re- moval from this house, he would be free to act accord- ino- to his own will." " Then what do you intend to do ? " " Not to accept the invitation for to-morrow, but to stay at home till the arrival of the steamer, the appearance of which at Kibiro cannot be delayed for long." " But if the jDroposal of my departure for Uganda were a sincere one, we should make a mistake, which would prove very detrimental to ourselves." " Whv ? " " Because Guakamatera will be angiy ; he will threaten us and,- worse still, act with violence." " No ; do not believe it. It is quite true that he will threaten us, but it will only be by words ; he will not have the courage to lay his hands upon us, as long as we remain barricaded within our home." AN ARGUMENT WITH BIRI. 99 " I believe the contrary." " But, dear Biri, he is certain that we conceal a good number of armed men. None of his hanassura are bold enough to approach if they see one of us gun in hand ; and then, in presence of any unforeseen event, Guakamatera would make a report to the king, which would enable us to gain time." ' " But if thev besieofe us, how could we long- resist ? It would be impossible." " I know that the defence could not be pro- tracted, but the Pasha's messenger will be here before lonof. We have in the house corn enoug-h to last one month ; water is close at hand, and we can supply our- selves with it during' the nio-ht, for the hanassura would be afraid of some resolute action on our part, and would watch us from a distance, especially after dark." " But we should place ourselves in a difficult posi- tion. I should ruin my business in Uganda, and, besides, cut off the road for my return." " Still, in my opinion, there is no better expedient in the terrible circumstances in which we are placed. With regard to Uganda, you may come with us and join Stanley's caravan. You can go to Uganda from a thousand points." " Ah ! I think your fears have no foundation. For- merlv the king wished verv much to get rid of us, but now circumstances have changed. Stanley's arrival frightens him, and he is desirous of amending his conduct, and entering into cordial intercourse with the Governor ; therefore he will comply with his wish and let me go to Uganda." " Biri, do vou forget the offence you gave the king ? You entered his country without permission. Can he forget that ? To pardon you does not depend upon 100 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. him ; the national traditions and the royal dignity could not allow it." " But I suppose he would, if he were compelled by political reasons ; and he is in fear." " You are mistaken. King Chua once feared us, now he hates us. He wants to close the borders of his kingdom ag-ain. His strength, like that of all Negro kings, is found in isolation ; to attain his object he will not hesitate to commit a crime. Thirst of power guides him, not reasons of State." " Then what will become of us ? " " You will know to-morrow." " You mean a great misfortune is impending ? " " Quite so ; unless, I repeat, we trust to chance and decline the invitation for to-morrow. If I were to decide for myself, I would not hesitate a moment." " But that would be to give ourselves up to certain death." " Not necessarily ; but if we gave ourselves up to Guakamatera, we would surely be put to death."' " To what a point the policy of the Governor has brought us ! " " Events have influenced his conduct. The dissen- sions of the province have tied his hands, and pre- vented him from acting on a consistent jjolitical plan. For this reason he has always been disinclined not only to resolute actions, but even to give pre- sents freely, as I advised him. The King of Unyoro and his Ministers are not to he bought by fine words, but by rich and substantial gifts." " And we bear the consequences of the mistake." " What can we do ? I, as well as you, have come here as a volunteer ; we must have courage. We must be prepared for something worse even than death. When the sacrifice has been consummated, our THREATENING APPEARANCES. 101 name, instead of being uttered with feelings of sympathy and gratitude, will be reviled as the name of persons who have been the cause of ruin ; but listen to my advice, and let us resist." " No ; indeed, it would be our worst course. Let us be prudent ; for if we are destined to be struck down by misfortune, no action of ours will be of any avail. My resolution is to go to-morrow and present myself to Guakamatera." " We shall go to ruin." " Perhaps, but I will go. If you will not accompany me, I will go alone." " No, dear Biri, I will not forsake you ; I will go with you." At 6 A.M., January 9, 1888, accompanied by my faithful boy, a corporal of the Egyptian troops, and the three hanassura, Wando, Rehan, and Singoma, I took the road to Guakamatera's residence. Having crossed the stream and ascended to the esplanade, whence the Vizier's abode could be perceived in the distance, we saw, with great astonishment, that the place was full of armed men. Our hearts throbbed violently for a moment, and we looked silently at each other. Biri uttered a faint " Let us go back," but it was useless ; we were bound to go on, and hastening our steps we reached the gate. The cries ceased, some of ' the warriors gathered on our way ; some saluted us, and we approached the audience hall. Not far off, at the foot of some ancient trees, majestic for their imposing height, and the wealth and beauty of their foliage, sat the high priest, surrounded by crowds of his subordinate sorcerers. His head was covered with a rich turban of red cloth, adorned with beads and shells, and from each side of his forehead protruded two ox horns, from which hung small 102 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. wooden talismans. In his left hand he held a large horn full of the magic jiowder, and in his right the con- juror's small wand. He was dressed in an ample mantle of ox skin clasped on his left shoulder, and was sitting on a small stool, with a severe countenance that became his dignity. The gate of the royal house was opened. We heard the flourish of a trumpet, and the Vizier came forth with a suite of grandees and warriors. The people scattered about the open space, gathered round at a short distance, forming a compact ch"cle ; some of the men were armed with ijfuns, some with lances and shields, and others with bows and ari'ows. They amounted to several thousands. Perfect, icy silence, foreboding a solemn event, prevailed ; and they all looked at Guakamatera, who was conspicuous amono'st the armed courtiers bv his hiofh stature and large head. " There is treachery," I whispered to Bm. " May God hel}) us ; any other hope is useless. However, let us show courag-e." About ten minutes after the Vizier's appearance he suddenly stretched up his right arm. That was the signal agreed upon, and the aii" resounded with horrible cries. The unbridled crowd pounced upon us. We were seized, and barbarously tied to the large trees, close by the great magician. I was stripped of my tarboosh, and my pockets were rifled. My neck, arms, wiists, knees, and ankles were bound to a tree with such atrocious force that I was unable to make the least movement. The rope round my neck was so tight that my respiration was hindered, and one of mv arms was twisted and tied in a painful position. Poor Biri, entirely stripped of his clothes, was tied AT GUAKAMATERA'S MERCY. 103 CASATI BOUND TO A TRKE. 104 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. to a tree close by, with ropes round his wrists, neck, and feet, and my boy Oakil was treated in the same manner. The corporal, with his arms bound together, was also tied to a tree near Biri. I uttered an imprecation, directing a glance at Guakamatera, who stood coldly by, upbraiding him for the cowardice of tying a boy, and begged him to have Biri's bonds loosened. The arms of the former were then freed, and the latter was somewhat relieved. But, on the contrary, the hanassura Wando, having called the Vizier's attention to the barbarous manner in which I was bound, he, with a needless burst of anger, ordered that even my body round the middle should be fastened to the large tree with a rope. His remorse- less satellites, intoxicated with joy, were ready to carry the order out ; but I could not refrain from smiling, consoled by the fact that the cord which bound my neck, being a new one, yielded to my efforts, and permitted me to breathe more freely. Then Guakamatera approached me nearer. " I am ffoing- to vour residence by order of the king-," said he. "I know that you have there many armed men who have arrived stealthily and at intervals from Wadelai, on whom you rely for conquering our country. Woe to you if they make the least resistance ! You shall be immediately put to death." " Considering the circumstances," said I, "to which you have reduced us by order of your king, I cannot answer for what will happen if you go to my residence ; therefore I advise you to take this boy with you, who will give mv messao-e to the soldiers there, bv whom he will be readily believed and obeyed." " Very well, give him your orders ; " which I did, saying : "Let the Government soldiers give up their arms, SUFFERINGS OF CASATI. 105 and you, my boy, obey without hesitation anything Guakamatera may command. I wish that there should be no resistance, no bloodshed." The Vizier departed, accompanied by his troops, leaving- about 300 armed men to g-uard us. The pain caused by the cords ; the rays of the sun, which on that day seemed to be more scorching than usual ; the thirst which tormented us, and the continual derision of an inebriated mob thirsty for blood, were our Calvary for several very long hours. Poor Bui sometimes recited the prayers of the Koran, but more often he sobbed, remembering his children and his lost ivory, and abandoned himself to despair, as if he beheld the spectre of death approaching. I tried to infuse courage and hope into him, and begged him not to exhibit a degrading spectacle of cowardice ; but, indeed, I was myself very afflicted at seeing us the laughing-stock of a ferocious and super- stitious tyrant. "If a steamer had been sent from Dufile, as you requested, we should not be in such a plight. The Pasha had been warned of the danger." So spoke Biri, and he gave vent to expressions of anger and disgust. Corporal Surur, less unhappy than we, was somewhat comforted by the words of his fellow-negroes. They urged him to make his submission to the king, who was ready, not only to pardon him, but also to show his consideration for his character as a soldier, and gave him cups full of water at his pleasure. Still that crowd, apparently so elated and frantic, wavered at the bottom of their hearts from great fear. One of the boldest amongst our guards, having ap- proached me, tried to loosen the strings of my shoes, probably to carry them away. Indignant at such an attempt, and unable to move at all, I shouted, staring 106 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. angrily at the villain. The crowd then stood back till one of the chiefs, whose sense of duty triumphed over that of fear, after much hesitation and circumspection, KING CHU.v's KE1.AT1VL6 IX COUKT ATTIKK. overhauled the pockets of my trousers, and assured his companions that there was no bewitched article in them, except a piece of paper ; whereupon I could not refrain TREATMENT OF PRISONERS. 107 a laugh, which was loudly taken up by the whole crowd, and even poor Bh i himself enjoyed a gleam of cheerful- ness. At about three o'clock p.m. my boy returned, and in the name of Guakamatera gave the order for loosening our fetters. The guards protested loudly against such a concession, which they could not belieVe to be true, and demanded the presence of one of the Vizier's hanassura ; meanwhile our torments were in- creased, in order to satisfy the caprice of a fanatical crowd ; and for about an hour the stream of insults and threats continued. When the boy returned, accompanied by the guard Singoma, cries of dissatisfaction were uttered by all. Singoma gave the order to loosen the cords which bound my arms ; the chief of the men who had remained to guard us protested, yet said that he would not only do so, but leave my arms free if the usual payment was handed to him. My coat was asked for, and I agreed to give it up, but they wanted it beforehand, which was impossible unless the ropes with which I was fastened were removed. At this there was a fresh explosion of violent outcries, but at last I was untied, deprived of my coat, and tied again, except my arms, and the same was done to Biri, whilst the cor-poral was set at liberty. It is the custom of the Unyoro country, and the king tolerates it, that the jailors of those who are imprisoned may practise the hideous trade of afflicting their victims with torments, to compel them to satisfy their covetousness ; so that if an unfortunate individual or a criminal has the power to satisfy their greed by a ready and substantial payment, his sufferings are allayed, for a short time at least, and even for a longer period if the victims continue to give presents ; but should the unhappy prisoner be poor, and therefore 108 TEN YEAKS IN EQUATORIA. unable to satisfy the greediness of his jailors, he is sure to undergo greater cruelties and molestations than those ordered by the monarch. It is thus that the officials of the king are compensated, and he is spared the burden of paying salaiies. This system of extortion is extended to every branch of the public service ; to the inspection of districts, messages to the chiefs, domiciliary visits, arrests, and transport of royal property ; consequently dissatisfaction prevails every- where in Unyoro, and were it not for the fear of the considerable number of guns possessed by the Govern- ment, public peace would be continually jeopardised. The boy briefly informed me of what had happened at our residence after our departure until the arrival of Guakamatera. We had scarcely left the house when it was surrounded at a distance by about two thousand warriors, brought down from Mruli, Muenghe, and from the Kafu districts. When the Vizier was close by the house, he stopped with his followers on the adjacent hill, whence he sent some soldiers, together with the boy, who was still in fetters. The arms of the two soldiers, and my own, as well as the cartridges, were brought befoi'e the commander ; my effects and Biri's, those of our servants and of the soldiers, were arranged on the open space near our dwelling, and the domestics were ordered to leave it, and taken into custody at a place apart ; detachments of armed men entered the premises, and closely searched every spot, striking with the butt-ends of their guns every point of the ground, in order to ascertain whether there were any subterranean hiding-places. Guakamatera's anxiety subsided when he learned bv the lirincr of shots and the beating of drums, that the search in our house had been fruitless. GUAKAMATERA'S ACCUSATIONS. 109 He then descended the hill, crossed the river, and went to rest himself triumphantly in my house. The ill-treatment and cruelties perpetrated against our people were worthy of the frame of mind of that savage horde. All my property was carried to the Vizier's residence, and I saw brought in successively my arms, boxes, provisions, and the ivory which belonofed to the Government. Biri's effects were gathered at Nparo on the Mruli road. As Guakamatera was about to return, I recom- mended firmness to my boy, and advised him to run away in order to carry the news to Wadelai of Stanley's presence in the southern region of the Albert Lake. It was about five o'clock p.m. The Vizier, sur- rounded by the priests, holding a small bunch of herbs in their right hands, arrived on the spot. The pipes and a trumpet sounded, the drums were beaten, the guns fired, and the crowd vigorously applauded the conqueror. Guakamatera cast a gflance at me, and observing^ that my arms were free, went into a passion, and ordered them to bind me again, which was done amidst the jubilant shouts of my tormentors ; then, having put off his warlike equipment, and donned an elegant garment made of cloth, he came out from the dwelling, sat down on a large chair, and gathered the warriors and the people round him : " This man," said he, pointing me out, " together with the other (alluding to Biri), brought the Waganda into our country ; he was the cause of your children and wives being ravished, your goods stolen, and your crops destroyed. For these crimes the king has struck them with his justice, and entrusted his vengeance to my arm." 110 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. A stunning, howling noise, full of threats and curses, filled the air, and we were assailed with the words, " Gohia, Gobia ! " (traitor !) Guakamatera called the corporal, but I never knew what he said to him ; then he called the boy, and told him that I was going to be escorted to Kibu'O, adding that the next morning all my effects would be sent to me. He ordered them to unbind me, and also Biri ; but as soon as the I AM DRAGGED ALONG BY THE GUARDS. order was executed four hanassura took hold of me, bound my arms and neck again, and dragged me away. I tried to speak to Guakamatera in favour of poor Biri, but without success, for the executioners, by dint of blows and pulls, dragged me off, my boy and the corporal following. At seven o'clock we passed across a colony of Shooli, and reached a place where criminals used to be exe- cuted ; an encampment of warriors was close by. Having entered the enclosure, we found the two ESCAPE OF CASATI. Ill Egyptian soldiers and our domestics, who, by giving up their clothes, obtained from the hanassura the removal of my ropes. I appeared to them as a man risen from the dead. At seeing me they were elated with joy, and forgot their past sufferings. My boy very kindly offered me a little paper and a pencil, which he had succeeded in concealing during the con- fusion of the pillage. The place where we were was not of good augury ; the nuggare that we saw were stained with the blood of executed victims, so that naturally the idea of escaping entered our minds. " This thorny wood is the only place not guarded by armed men," said my boy, on his return from reconnoitring. " Well," said I, "let us fall on our hands and knees and crawl through it." It was done as quickly as it had been said ; we issued in evil plight from the wood and found ourselves on the road ; but soon had to stru^orle through the ambushes placed by the landowners, from which we were unable to defend ourselves ; we therefore abandoned the road, and proceeded for a long distance hidden amongst the tall gTass, in which at last we stopped. Corporal Surur had left us, and fled. We heard far, far off the echoes of the curses of the warriors, who had lost every trace of us, but gradually the sounds of their voices died away, and complete silence prevailed. After three hours' rest we resumed our journey, and, crossing the Farajak district, we reached Kitana, where, thanks to a few glass beads which some women detached from their necks, we were enabled to appease our hunger with sweet potatoes (Batata edulis). At noon on January 10, 1888, we reached the top of the mountain whence Kibiro and the immense 112 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOEIA. blue extent of the lake can be seen. We descended as far as the first terrace, when suddenly armed men appeared from behind the rocks and paths, taking up positions all round us. They numbered about a thousand altogether, partly haaassura, armed with g-uns, and partly natives with lance and shield. They ordered us to go back, and on my decided refusal they clamoured and threatened, but I did not answer. They had been sent by Guakatamera, Barabra, chief of Juaya, and Roconcona, chief of Kitana, and they accused me of having run away, declaring at the same time that they would take me back by force. The affair seemed to forebode a tragedy, and we thought that perhaps it was the last and fatal phase of our misfortunes ; any hesitation would have been our ruin. I gathered my people, who were greatly frightened, declaring resolutely that even at the co.st of my life I would not go back, and as I stepped forward to continue the descent, they followed me. The warriors uttered loud cries, as leaving their positions, and jumping from rock to rock, they con- verged towards us, obviously bent on carrying out their threats of violence, when suddenly two individuals appeared, lance in hand, messengers sent by Kagoro, the great chief of Kibiro, who claimed my person, and extended his protection to me because I was in his territory. The rushing crowd stopped, and we descended to the village, followed by our enemies, now reduced to silence, though disposed to dispute the prey. Kao-oro sfave us shelter in a comfortable dwelling, and sent us two goats, besides three baskets of flour and some tobacco, with this friendly message : " Take some rest, and have no fear ; I have no orders fi.-om the king: about vou." CHUA'S MESSAGE TO EMIN. 113 That day and the subsequent night passed off with- out incident. The village teemed with armed men, excited by drink and quarrelling amongst themselves, but my house was under the custody of guards. Various chiefs who came to see me poured into my ears the strangest news. I was betrayed by my own soldiers ; people, speaking in the Governor's name, said things quite different from those said by me ; the proposal of exchanging blood was a whim of mine ; I was plotting with Muanga against the king ; Emin was in perfect agreement with Chua, and disap- proved of my conduct ; Abd Rehman, the Zanzibari merchant, the friend of Babedongo, and adviser of Chua, had directed and witnessed my capture from Guakatamera's house ; my effects and the Govern- ment's ivory were to be confiscated, and sent to Mruli. The Vizier, when he seized the goods within my house, said to the two Egyptian soldiers who were present : " Tell the Governor of Wadelai that the severe steps which the king has ordered me to take are required for the safety of the State. The Governor's en- voy hoisted the flag of his Government, and aimed at the overthrow of our Sovereign, by plotting with Muanga. Tell Emin that he has insulted and otherwise offended the king, and that he tried to make himself popular amongst the natives in order to cause rebellion ; but the king will not break the friendship and alliance which connect him with the Pasha, and an envoy will be sent to Wadelai in order to strengthen it." This foolish, false, and infamous message was not altogether without success ; some persons believed the assertions contained in it, for a failure influences the minds of the foolish and of the wicked, and there had been a great deal of talk about that rag of a banner. VOL. II. H lU TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. I had hoisted the Egyptian colours during the war with Uganda, with the full consent of the king, granted at Nparo, when I went to visit him. When the hostili- ties ceased the country was overrun by bodies of Mayunoo, who from the Bat^ano-hese district travelled home to that of Anfina, recently conquered. The want of public security, the complete abandonment in which I was left l)y the king, and the conspiracies incessantly fostered for bringing about my ruin, induced me to hoist that flag for my protection. My decision, submitted to the king, was fully indorsed bv him, and confirmed later on by Guakamatera himself January 11, 1888. — To break another man's pipe is considered a very great offence amongst the Wanyoro. The case is submitted to the king with these formal words : " He has injured, or killed, mv companion ; " and the fine amounts to a goodly number of oxen. When the ofiended party does not agree with the judgment, or if neither appHes for it, serious wounds, or even nnuder, are the final result. Often such an ofience is resorted to as a provocation, when for some reason an individual wishes to draw another into a quarrel. Early in the moi'ning a lively dispute was going on between one of Guakamatera's guards and one of Kao-oro's followers. The banassura had arrogfantlv and intentionally, without the least provocation, wrested a pipe from the mouth of an inhabitant of Kibiro and dashed it to the gi'ound. The quarrel becoming worse, I went to the door, and the guard immediately invited me to act as judge between hun and his opponent ; but I, well knowing the habits of the countrv, guessed the trick, and excused myself on the ground of indisposition, begging to be left alone, where- upon they went away to settle their contentions else- SUFFERINGS ON THE WAY. 11') where. At about eight o'clock a number of guards came up begging for cowries to buy beer ; I threw my waistcoat to them, for I did not possess anything else ; they were not satisfied, but went away. We were soon after ordered to depart, and did so, a crowd of armed men accompanying us to the shore of the lake, where two boats had already been prepared for us. I was ordered to embark in the smaller one and my people in the other, but I objected to comply with their treacherous request, declaring that force alone would compel me to do so, and I appealed to some Kagoro chiefs, whom I perceived in the crowd. We were then driven like a herd of cattle to the salt pits, and left there in custody of sentries posted at some distance round. The crowd retired and assembled in front of the house belonging to the chief of the village, to hold a consultation. Although exposed to a scorching sun, permission to obtain a little water from the lake close at hand was denied us, and thus several hours passed away without any change in the situation. At about 3 p.m. a servant was sent in search of a little fire, in order that we might seek relief in smoking the tobacco presented to us on the j)revious evening by Kagoro, but he did not return. At four o'clock two ruffians from Guaka- matera, presmnably the chiefs of the band, approached and bravely stole a box containing the few clothes be- longing to the two soldiers ; half an hour later we saw our assailants meandering, one by one, up the mountain path and disappearing successively. The bay of Kibiro was then restored to its habitual monotony, but no one came near us, because we were accursed and banished by the king. At about five o'clock the chief sent me a native as a guide to the next village ; at about eight o'clock we reached the residence of Tokongia, who gave us some fish 116 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. and allowed us to spend the night in a large hut ; but although peace and tranquillity seemed to prevail everywhere, we decided to watch in turn. The strange events of the last three davs crowded on mv mind, but the sorrow of having lost my notes grieved me more deeply than any other of my misfortunes. At cock-crow, January 12, 1888, we started, accom- panied by Tokongia, and at about 7 a.m. we entered the village of Ntiabo. Ntiabo was one of the king's wives, who, according to usage, had had bestowed on her, the possession of a district as an appanage, which she rules and visits occasionally, taking up her residence there at fixed dates. In her absence she is represented by a delegate, who rules in her name and sends her the pro- duce of the district. The king grants lands as fiefs, not only to his wives, but also to some of his favom-ites, from whom he receives a fixed payment, besides the assistance of fighting men in time of war. When we reached Ntiabo, the king.'s wife was absent at Mruli with her husband. We were received with in- difierence and suspicion, because the people knew of the judgment which had been pronounced against us, and they avoided us as if we had been lepers. Tokongia procured us a guide, who early in the after- noon left us, on reaching the palace of a chief called Kapidi, a tall big man, lame in the right foot, a cunning and facetious chatterer. I asked him to conduct me to the Boki country, and though not absolutely declining to do so, he excused himself on the ground that he had no one on whom he could rely, and also because he was unable to make a long journey ; however, he supplied us with some food, and the day passed away without any incidents. Soon after sunset, two of Guakamatera's messengers arrived, told our crimes, the king's sentence, and announced what was to be done in these words. PURSUED AND BEATEN. 117 " Neither food nor passage." The future seemed more gloomy than e"ver, for the ferocious tyrant did not forget his victim. On January 13, keeping along the shore of the lake escorted by Kapidi, with two of his faithful followers as guides, a little before noon we stopped in front of a small island, the residence of Melino, one of the most feared chieftains of the Mag-uno-o. He wished me to go to his residence, but that did not seem to me quite prudent. He made us wait for several hours, and at last granted us permission to continue our journey, accompanied by two guides. At four o'clock we entered a small village, ruled over by a certain Amara, but as soon as we had advanced a few steps, all the natives in a crowd rushed at us in a threatening manner, to make us go back. The guides abandoned us, and the difficulties increased. The savage villagers, crying, " You shall neither be fed nor pass," proceeded from threats to deeds, struck us with their sticks, and drove us from the road towards the woods, till at last, after having followed us for a long way, they left us. Having restored our minds to the calm so much needed after our abrupt expulsion from the village, we journeyed through the bush, and succeeded in again finding the road to the lake. At about sunset we were in presence of groups of miserable huts. I sent one of the soldiers and my boy to parley with the inhabitants, for the latter understood the language of the country pretty well ; and having received no hostile reply, we camped out not far from the village. During the night we were regaled, to our great surprise, with a large plate of beans, for which we warmly thanked our generous Amphytrion. In that village resided a young Dinka woman who 118 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. had run away from the ill-treatment of an Egyptian official of the Equatorial Government, and had been married by the chief s son. She was generally esteemed for her kindness, and her activity in performing domestic duties. She assured us of her husband's kind disposition towards us, adding his father was similarly inclined, and gave us the precious news that on the 11th the Pasha had reached Tunmiru with the two steamers. Our courage revived. Every one of my followers declared his willingness to be obedient, and hope made our rest sweeter. Meanwhile the chief Melino, having mustered a large number of warriors (January 14, 1888), airived at the village during the night, and at sunrise called to- gether the neighbouring chiefs, to a meeting to decide on our fate. The most ferocious wanted to kill me at once ; others suggested that we should be escorted as far as the village of Rokora, on the Victoria Nile. After lengthy discussions, interrupted by excited altercations — neither party being able to arrive at a definite conclusion satisfactory to all — they agi'eed to expel us from the district, and, taking rods in then- hands, drove us away. But our persecutors were soon tired. The furious crowd vanished by degrees, and we remained alone. We walked for about two hours, then, turning into a secluded and difficult marsh, we stopped to hold a consultation about the most proper thing to do, and agreed that it was urgent to try and get a boat, in order to cross the lake, reach Tunguru, and ask for assistance there. After seai'ching for some time, we succeeded in finding an old boat in very bad condition, and even without oars. But brave Fadl, an Arab from Dongola, did not hesitate to undertake the NEW PERSECUTORS. 119 arduous management of it, and after sunset we issued from our hiding-place, and waded through pools and sloughs, continually sinking into holes made by the feet of hippopotami, thrusting our way through the high grass, thorny hedges, and clusters of reeds, some- times wheeling to the right or left at the sudden ap- pearance of large amphibia, occasionally lying down, alarmed at the sight of bufi'aloes. At last, towards midnight, we reached a little hill near the lake. Plenty of water was our substitute for food. On January 15, 1888, two of the unhappy Biri's servants joined us on the road, and accompanied us. I advised them to go during the night to the hospitable house of the Dinka woman, in order to obtain a httle food ; the place was not far distant and the Melino and Amara hordes had left the district, but they declined. At dawn we perceived four canoes a long distance off, obviously shaping their course with the intention of crossing the lake ; it might have been a good oppor- tunity for us and probably our deliverance, but Hurshid, the Circassian soldier, had swollen feet and could scarcely walk, and I could not be cruel enough to abandon him. Our condition was going from bad to worse ; discouragement was obtaining a hold on the minds of my unfortunate companions, and they were all deeply affected, except young Oakil. The sun rose, and we again threw ourselves amongst the amhatsh and reed thickets, searching for roots to suck, when suddenly the howling of savages warned us of the approach of new persecutors. Parties of armed men were beating the bush, precisely as when a search is made for game, and surrounded the place where we were hiding, crying " Majungo, majmigo!" (the foreigner, the foreigner !) I then emerged from my hiding-place and faced the 120 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. Magungo people, who were irritated at the disappear- ance of their boat, but their anger decreased when they saw I had not gone away. My companions, who had fled in all directions, then came back. The cursinof and threateninof continued : the tone of it was somewhat improved, but the substance was the same. The wildest suggestions were discussed, such as to seize the women as an indemnity for the loss suffered ; to bind us in a row and take us to the chief Melino ; or to put an end to the matter by taking a well- merited revenge. By dint of discussing, promising, and pointing out the probability of danger, I succeeded in calming some of the most influential men, and the crowd finallv resolved to escort us out of their territorv. I felt happy at having escaped from danger this time also, without hurt, and shaking hands with some of the chiefs, we proceeded towards the slope of a hiD. We walked for about two hours, and then our guides left us in the neighbourhood of a village inhabited by the Lur and Lendu men. They would not receive us, and yet would not set us at liberty. We asked for food, and some was shown us, but was quickly taken away with jeers. A boy was struck, and on my remonstrating, I received a blow from a stick. Then they assembled in council, and the chief abruptly proposed that I should be executed. " Makama," said he, "has ordered this fellow to be killed at Rokora beyond the river, but it would be as well to do away with him at once. To carry his dead body there is an easy matter ; we should neither be troubled all day on his account, nor incur the royal displeasure." This proposal was translated to me by Hurshid's servant, who knew the langfuao-e of the Lur. I then stepped forward and said : "If you have the ANOTHER ESCAPE. 121 courage to carry out your resolution, come forward, I am ready ; but remember all of you that the king has ordered you to send me to Rokora, and that such dis- obedience may cause punishment to the whole village." " No, no," cried they unanimously, " we won't kill you." " Well, send away that man who suggested such ^n unjust resolution, and then we will talk together." Cries of disapprobation pierced the ears of the matungoli, who thought it best to beat a retreat. A young man who had a smattering of Arabic and had been an interpreter in the service of Mergian Aga Danassuri, late commander of the military station of Magungo, offered to act as an intermediary between me and the Lur, from whom he obtained permission for me to be restored to freedom on condition that he should compel me to take the road to Rokora. My companions grumbled, protested, and even thought that I had gone mad ; but I encouraged them in the best way I could, and exhorted them to trust in me, assuring them that if a way of safety were possible I would find it. We walked slowly ; my companions were tired, for long fasting had decreased the vigour both of their bodies and minds. " Man dies only by the permission of God," said I to the Mussulman, Hurshid, who was troubled more than the others with a painful feeling of discouragement. He smiled sadly, shaking his head ; his face wore an aspect of sorrow like the country which surrounded us. A few dry wild berries of a reddish colour, from a thorny shrub, were the cause of our little caravan being suddenly scattered ; but the eagerness with which they were picked up soon stopped, for the caustic effect which they produced on the tongue increased our sufferings. 122 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. The soldiers who formed our escort urged us to hasten our inarch, and I begged them to have com- passion. As the distance from Rokora decreased, so our hope decreased, for in a couple of hours we should reach the spot destined for our martyrdom. We silently ascended the last hill which separated us from the Nile, when all of a sudden we saw its ridge covered with warriors. I begged our young interpreter to precede us, and to make them understand that we were not going to oppose them — that we intended going down the river, and hoped that they would not increase our miserv. He promised to say what I told him, and started. His arrival on the opposite side was followed by lively disputes, thundering cries, movement to and fro of warriors, and the sudden ap])earance of men from behind the bushes. But soon after the crowd dispersed, and took to flight. What had happened ? Our young interpreter re- turned jubilant. " The steamer ! the steamer ! " he cried, as he descended the hill and appi'oached us. He then informed us that the news had spread of the ajjpearance of a steamer on the lake, adding that it was coming straight towards us. Our brave guides simply t-st the inhabitants, who were carrying away furniture and provisions, and driving oft' herds of cattle. They took no notice of us. Their ferocity of the morning had vanished. We spoke to some of them, but they did not answer, and hastened their departure, anxiously exclaiming, The steamer ! the steamer ! " Was the steamer really on the lake ? Were we on ON THE LAKE SHORE. 123 the point of being rescued ? We looked eagerly, but the darkness of the nigfht reiidei-ed fruitless all our efforts to see her. Restored to life after a deadly anxiety — strengthened by hope — forgetful of })ast sufferings — jesting at the fears of our persecutors, who had been so threatening in the morning, we walked on, till at last we reached the shore of the lake at about 11 P.M., and sat down on the sandy jiromontory ap- pointed as the place of our meeting with Fadl. Our thirst was quenched by the clear waters of the sandy- bottomed lake, and a crackling fire made with materials broug-ht from the neig-hbourino- huts comforted us, and we fell asleep amidst the stillness and darkness of the night, with the certainty of a happy morrow. The stars were still shining in the sky, but our impatience was such that already we were walking to and fro on the shore of the lake, looking anxiously for a black spot on the horizon. The sun was just emerging at our back in the fulness of its splendour. A few timid natives in canoes were flying towaixls the islands, almost hidden in the creeks. The cruelly lengthened expecta- tion made us silent. Our sad thoughts re-asserted themselves, but the pangs of hunger overwhelmed sen- timent. I ordered that some aquatic herbs, i-esorted to by the Negroes in time of scarcity, should be collected, and cooked in a large vessel taken from one of the houses in the villao-e. If the steamer did not appear by noon, our plan was to construct an ample raft of amhatsh, and to entrust our safety to the waves — an operation of easy execution, for the frio-htened and fleeino- natives ^\'ould not have troubled us. At about nine o'clock a shrill cry interrupted the flow of thoughts that had harassed my mind. It was caused by the sight of a streak of smoke on the horizon. A little later the chimnev of a steamer was discerned, 124 TEN YEARS IX EQUATORIA. and then on came the vessel herself, fully showing her outline, and shaping her course by the signal we had hoisted on the top of a pole — the white and red handkerchief of poor Hui-shid. All eves were fixed on her. when suddenlv she l^eofan to move with imceitaintv, and even seemed to stop ; her dimensions decreasing gi-adually, tUl at last she disappeai-ed. My unhappy companions uttered a cr^- of anguish and despair. I tried to make them undei-stand that the steamer was taking soundings to find sufficiently deep water, but my words were of no avail. Their scantv repast was intennipted, and the poor creatures presented a lament- able appeamnce, sitting gloomily and silently on the ground with bowed heads, their arms encircling their knees, and theii' hands clasped together. I withdrew fi-om them. pra\'ing Heaven that the sj)eedy reappeai-ance of the steamer might shorten their sufierings. One hour later the Khedive was again in sight, steaming safely, and at a satisfactory speed. We saluted her by waving om- flag, and our salutation was retm-ned by the usual whistle, which we applauded clamorously. She cast anchor at a shoit distance fixtm the shore, and a boat conveved us to her. Em in Pasha, with many of his officei-s and officials, had attempted our rescue in spite of its apparent hopelessness, and rather to fulfil a pious duty than with any expectation of success. Jov at our unhoped-for safety made every one mute, and feai' only vanished by degi'ees, as if there was still a doubt as to what had happened. " And as a man, with difficnlt short breath, Forespeni with toiling, 'scaped from sea to shore, Tnms to the p^iloas wide waste, and stands At gaze ; e'ea so mv spirit, that yet fail'd. Struggling with terror, inmed to view the Straits That none hath p&ssed and lived." — Da> te, Inferno, Canto i. ( ^-^^ ) CHAPTER VII. THE ALBERT NYANZA. Opinions of the geographers of the first half of this century on Central Africa — Speke and Burton — Discovery of the Tanganika Lake — A great sea — The Victoria Lake discovered by Speke — Eosher's explorations — The Nile flows from Lake Victoria— Speke and Baker — Discovery of Lake Albert — Living, stone's hypothesis contradicted by facts — Gordon in Equatoria — Equatoria ought to find a commercial opening at Zanzibar — It opens a way by the Nile to the lakes — Romolo Gessi explores the Albert Lake — The steamers Khedive and Nyonza — Colonel Mason's exploration — General Stone's opinion — Stanley and the Beatrice Gulf — F'rom Berber to Khartoum — The Nile between Khartoum and Lado — Difficulty of the trafiic by water in the Nile Valley — The sources of the Nile — The Albert Lake — Conforma- tion of its shores — The navigation of the lake — Storms — Crocodiles — Fishing — The lake boats — Kibiro salt-works — Salt trade — Tribute to the king — Cultivation — Products of the forests — Fauna — Inhabitants. Geogeaphees of the fiist half of this century were generally of opinion that the central region of Africa was formed by an immense internal large as half Europe. This great lake extended from the southern end of the Nyassa, having its northern limit and its greatest bulk of water in the Equatorial zone ; but no European explorations had confirmed this supposed distribution of the river basins. It was in 1858 that Speke and Burton, having started from Bagamoyo, on the east coast of the narrow channel which separates the African continent from Zanzibar — with the purpose of making discoveries about the great question of the sources of the Nile, which was still a mystery — discovered Lake Tan- ganika, but were unable to settle its northern borders. On returning to Tabora, the two explorers, whilst TEN YEARS IN EQUATOR I A. occiipied in coni|)arin(»- and arrangino- former studies with the information they had received about the coun- tries surrounding the region explored bv them, were given some vague hints concerning the existence of a great sea, much larger than the Tanganika, at a dis- tance of not more than fifteen days' march towards the north. Burton was prevented from joining the enter- prise on account of the deplorable state of his health. Speke departed alone, and succeeded in discovering the Victoria Lake, of which, however, he could see but a small pai't. From that time exploi-ations, crowned by discoveries of lakes, followed each other rapidly, and the circum- navisfation of them led to the division of the cfi^and African Mediterranean into a series of great lacustral basins. In 1859 Livingstone reached the southern shore of Lake Nyassa, and almost at the same time Rosher explored the eastern banks of the Tanganika. S})eke had conjectured that the Victoria Lake might be the reservoir from whicli the Nile had its origin, and as soon as he aiTived in England he projected an expedition, which started in the early months of 1860. Feeling himself thoroughly competent, he did not hesitate to accept the mandate of the Roval Geo- graphical Society ; and associated Captain Grant, his friend, in the enterprise. He reached Uganda, by the route through the country of Karagua, and the Kagera river ; and on the 28th of Julv 1862 he crowned his mission by witnessing the Nile flowing from the Victoria Lake at the Ripon Falls. He then went to the north-west, and the ex- pedition reached the mountainous part of the Nile, near the spot where Miani, an Italian, arriving from the north, had engraved his name and the date of the event on the historical tamarind. BAKER'S DISCOVERIES. 127 Sir Samuel Baker, a valiant hunter, fond of ad- venture, and wishing to study and make known the Soudanese countries (shut in by the desert and by the difficulty of communication), started an expedition to the region of the lakes, with the almost certainty of meeting Speke and Grant. He arrived at Gondokoro on the 2nd of February 1863, where a few days after- wards he gi'eeted the two brave explorers. (,)n being informed by Speke of the existence of a lake (in ac- cordance with the statements of the natives), west of Unyoro, into which the great river flowing from the lake poured itself, he conceived the idea of com- pleting the discovery of the sources of the Nile, both for the love of study and as a compensation for the troubles and expenses he had undergone. The ex- plorations which he and the brave Lady Baker carried out, amidst all kinds of sirfferings and dangers, led to the discoverv of a new lake, which he called Lake Albert. Whilst Stanley and Cameron ascertained the boundaries of Tanganika and Victoria Lakes, Gessi in the year 1876 completed the exploration of the Albert Lake. The sources of the Nile were no long-er a mystery, and Livingstone's hypothesis, that it had its origin at 12° S. lat., had thus been contradicted by facts. On Baker's return, Ismail Pasha, Khedive of Egypt, sent Colonel Gordon to pursue the exploration of the Upper Nile, to establish a strong government in those regions, and to put an end to the slave trade. Gordon began his government with energy and intelligence. He occupied Bor, north of Gondokoro ; established a station on the river Sobat ; concluded peace with the Bari tribe ; ascertained the course of the Nile from Khartoum to Rejaf, as well as the junction of the two lakes, Albert and Victoria ; and laid the basis for opening up communications with them. 128 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. Having transferred the seat of government from Gondokoro to Lado, he estabHshed a series of military stations for the protection of the Nile route. Rejaf and Bedden at first, then Kirri, Muggi, Lahore, Dufile, and Magungo, secured the way to the Albert Lake. The road to Unyoro and Uganda was opened later on by the Panyatoli, Foweira, Kirota, and Mruli stations. Gordon was of opinion that Equatoria would find its outlet on the road to Zanzibar. From Lado he wrote, " The only valuable part of this country is that formed by the tablelands of the kingdom of Uganda, whilst the country south of Lado and Khartoum is but a miserable marsh." The execution and completion of this plan, prepared by a diligent exploration of Lake Albert, was entrusted by Gordon to Gessi Pasha. Before this voyage of circumnavigation took place, many geographers were still of opinion that the lake discovered by Sir S. Baker did not belong to the Nile hydrographic system, and that the Victoria Nile discharged its stream directly into the Nile of the mountains. The adventurous journey, and the observa- tions made at Magungo, were not conclusive enough to settle every doubt. Gordon had first entrusted Chippendale and Watson with the exploration of the lake, but, as they did not succeed in carrying out this arrangement, he confided the enterprise to Gessi, who, with two iron boats and a small escort, brought to completion the tour of the lake amidst the greatest difficulties, unfavourable weather, and the continual hostilities of the natives. In the course of a few days Gessi accomplished his task, having ascertained the length of the lake to be 141 miles (224 kilometres), and its greatest width 50 miles (80 kilometres), thus showinof the erroneousness of the dimensions criven bv Sir S. Baker. He confii^med the existence of impenetrable I ! EXPLORATION OF THE LAKES. 129 marshes at its southern end. At the same time Gordon undertook to explore the Victoria Lake, but through un- foreseen circumstances he was prevented from carrying out his project. A short time previously the lake had been explored by Stanley, who for this purpose had obtained from King- Mtesa an escort of 2000 men. Gordon, in order to prepare for the complete explora- tion of the Albert Lake, had, since the year 1875, given orders that the steamers Kliedive and Nyanza, left by Sir S. Baker, should be carried to Dufile. The enter- prise met with immense diificulties — hostilities from the natives, obstacles in the navigation, and insufficient means. The steamers were broken into sections, and the several pieces were dragged a long way over the road by men, and where the river was navigable they were placed on large boats, and thus transported. When the sections of the Nyanza had been brought beyond the Fola Fall they were put together, and the boat was launched in the Dufile waters. Towards the end of the year 1876, Colonel Mason, of the Egyptian staff, accomplished the second circum- navigation of the Albert Lake on board the steamer Nyanza. The results obtained differed partially from Gessi's, and geographers were undecided in accepting the conclusions of either one or the other traveller. The authority of General Stone made the scale incline in favour of the Italian explorer. On the 9th January 1876, Stanley discovered the watersheds of the Lakes Victoria and Ruitan (Albert Edward Nyanza), which latter he called Beatrice Gulf He went down on the table-land, which is at the altitude of about 1000 feet (300 metres) above the level of the lake, but was prevented from pursuing the enterprise any further by the refusal of the Waganda people to accompany him. This is the most VOL. II. I 130 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOEIA. distant of the basins where the Nile has its origin, and, as we know, communicates with the Albert Lake by the river Semliki. In the year 1889 the geographical question as to the sources of the great river, which for a long series of years had by its mystery attracted the attention and the studies of geographers, and enlivened the emulation of distinguished explorers, was solved. The distance between Berber and Khartoum is about 250 miles (400 kilometres). According to Sir S. Baker's calculations, the velocity of the current of the Nile varies between 10 and 13 miles an hom% and is interrupted by the Sixth Cataract. Captain Watson, speaking of the navigation between Berber and Khartoum, says : " After remaining a few days at Berber, we went by steamer as far as Khar- toum. There the river flows through a range of hills, which, by diminishing its width, increase the speed of its current. When the Nile is low it is impossible to pass those rapids, except in boats of very little draught, on account of the many sub-aqueous rocks. We went from Berber to Khartoum in six days, but the journey may easily be made in three or four." By steamer the journey from Khartoum to Xado takes sixteen days. The country through which the river flows presents various aspects, according to the hio-h or low level of the water. The extension of the Nile, generally called Lake No, or Moki-en-el-Bohm-, forms a large channel, the width of which varies with the chanmnof conditions of the current. It is bordered by extensive grassy banks, floating on the water. The Nuer tribe camp on this mobile land. The shape of this lake is very u^regular, owing to the force exerted by the mass of waters to open a wider mouth when the river is swollen ; the Bahr-el-Ghazal, rushing against the grassy surface, is powerless THE COUNTRY BETWEEN LADO AND REJAF. 131 to break the thickly intertwined herbage, but at that point causes the channel to form an acute angle towards the east. In the succeeding part, as far as Lado, the naviga- tion of the river is not very difficult, but throughout a perfect knowledge of the route is required, in order not to deviate into one of the lateral branches that are frequently met with, especially in the ad- VIEW OF THE BANKS SOUTH OF FOLA. vanced season of the rains, and also to avoid the many sandbanks. The country between Lado and Rejaf, and from that place to Bedden, is slightly undulating, and its cultivated fields extend to the banks of the river. In the dry season steamers cannot go beyond Gondokoro ; but boats at this time of the year go as far as Bedden. On account of the rapids, the change of boats takes place at Bedden, from whence navigation is easy up to Kirri, near which place the open ground, sloping 132 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. slightly towards the river, narrows it, and renders its passage hai'd and difficult. The country comprised in this locality and the villages Muggi and Labord slope gradually, and it is only at a short distance from this last place that we observe a steep declivity on both sides of the river. The many rapids of the Nile, though not difficult to pass, make navigation on it un- comfortable and dano-erous. Between Lahore and Dufile these rapids succeed each other frequently, and the Fola cataract at its confluence with the Assua, en- closed between the sides of a narrow neck, makes navi- gation impossible. For a space covered by two hours' walking the road runs over a limited tract of land on the side of the chain of mountains which slope towards the western bank, and after that becomes still more mountainous. Near the cataract a rock bars the way, and, leaving the bank of the river, the road winds down the wild-looking hills in the neiofhbourhood of Dufile. About 2J miles south of Fola the river is free from obstacles and flows slowly ; small islands of papv-ri are scattered over its course, which has frequent windings. The western bank is picturesque, owing to its fine and extensive cultivation, whilst the opposite shore is wild and desolate, and scattered over with bushes of papyrus. The Nile, on account of its cataracts, from the great number of its rapids, and the scarceness of forests where fuel might be obtained, presents a series of difficulties to traffic by water. In 1875 Colonel Gordon wrote : "Navigation from Lado to Khartoum is almost impossible ; firewood is scarce, and becomes more so everv year ; there are numerous sandbanks." The sources of the Nile are formed and flow from a vast basin partly surrounded by a semicii'cle of moun- FLAT PLAINS NEAR LADO. 133 tains. In the eastern segment the range of heights describes a curve diverging from the Abyssinian mass of mountains and from the surroundings of the Blue Nile, reaching its highest altitude in the Equatorial lake reofion. Tracts of alluvial land, and ranches of hills sloping down to the plains, extend between the greatest line of heiofhts and the Nile. These plains in the season of the rains are flooded by inundations. To the south of this region between Lado and Dufile, the spurs of the range of mountains slope down to large meadows, cut by numerous streams of water, and scattered over with small isolated hills, forming the region bounded by the Victoria Nile.* Westward the country extends in flat plains covered with trees to about 62 miles (100 kilometres) from Lado, surrounded by a line of heights which from the north-east run parallel to the river as far as Dufile. There the range of mountains forms a small plain near the river, and, turning towards the south-west, passes at no great distance from Wadelai, skirts the Albert Lake, and with the heights of Wallegga forms the valley of Semliki, and borders the western and southern shores of the Ruitan, or Albert Edward. The Albert Lake, enclosed on the east by the heights forming its waterparting with the Victoria Lake and on the west by the mountain ranges of the Lur and Wallegga countries, is a vast elongated basin, stretch- ing from north-east to south-west. It is narrow at its origin, but gradually expands, forming ample bays ; and then becomes narrower again at its northern end. At the point of junction with the Victoria Nile, the water is stagnant in an inlet, and the accumulation of sand makes the entrance to the lake difficult for large * This information is partially taken from " Notizie sulle provincie Egiziane del Sudan, Mar Rosso ed Equatore, del Corpo di Stato Maggiore." Roma, 1885. 134 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. boats at the time of the lowest water. The eastern shore is formed by protruding sandbanks and terraces, on which successive phases of the action of the waters are dehneated by parallel lines. It appears that, even now, whilst on the western coast the waters are receding, their advance on the eastern shore increases. Kibiro is situated on the eastern coast of the Albert Lake on a level shore of small extension. Behind it, to the south, rises Mount Kitana, its steep sides cut into large and successive terraces, difficult to ascend. The coast is formed of undulations of varying height, with woods between the water and the hills, the average distance between the lakes and the heitjfhts being- about a mile. The uniformity and continuity of this configuration are broken here and there by great rocks, covered by euphorbia, wild date palms, and the beautiful flowers of the yellow stramonium [Datura humilis). At three hours' journey from Kibiro the Kiriangobi forest appears on the ridge of the sloping mountains, and casts its dark shadow along the shore, its gigantic trees broken here and there by the silvery falls of the river Ngussi, and of several minor streams. The land then slopes gradually to the Muenghe territory. At Kieya the aspect of the lake is that of a marsh, covered with a growth of papyri and amhatsh, which becomes thicker towards the south. The western side of the lake is almost everj^where bordered by a continuous range of mountains, rising like a wall, and sheltering the waves from the north-westerly winds. This line of heights proceeds tortuously, and forms plains of various size between the foot of its hills and the waters of the lake. The force of the water (not so strong perhaps on this bank as on the other) and the great number of rivulets, together with the THE ALBERT LAKE. 135 action of the rainfalls which cany down the detritus, cause a perceptible progress in the extension of the western shore, and a consequent advance of the waters on the opposite bank. The thick Tunguru wood, with its high and leafy trees, screens from the winds of the north-east the villao-e of the same name built on the . borders of the lake, in the midst of rich and thriving fields of grain, bananas, and cotton. Navio-ation along- the western coast is made difiicult LASnSCAPE NEAR THE ALBERT LAKE. by the many sandbanks protruding in the lake to a great distance, and of varying and uncertain size. When the point of Msua is jjassed the high mountains of Juguro rise almost perpendicularly from the water, and bar the passage near the shore. Further south the heights of Melindwa, which follow the bank of the lake and join the Kavalli hills, leave a narrow shore on which are erected several villages inhabited by fishermen. Numerous streams, like bands of silver, 136 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. rush down from the rocks in cascades and waterfalls, in the midst of strips of still more vigorous and bright vegetation. The lake cannot be freely navigated at Nsabe, Nyamsanzi, and Were, because it is there a mere marsh scattered over with papyri and ambatsh. From Cape Mina, on the western shore, the lake is deep and navigable at any season. " The spirit of the lake may cause winds to blow furiously, and upset the boats with your soldiers," the king said to me one day ; and he added, whispering, " The peoj)le of Kibiro are wicked, and wiU take vengeance on your men if they use any violence to them." It is a general belief — to which King Chua himself seems to give credence for the convenience of his government — that an evil spirit inhabits the depths of the lake, and at his caprice unfetters the fury of the waves and raises storms. Veneration and devotion may avail, however, to calm and prevent his anger, and for this purpose sailors throw glass beads, fowls, &c., in the water. The king's envoys throw in a certain kind of large cornelians called genetot by the Arabs, the use of which is forbidden to others. Violent winds, generally from the north-east, but sometimes from the south, blow suddenly on the lake ; the water becomes dark, waves fall one upon the other, and the storm rages, whistling and thundering, the bearer always of desolation and affliction. It often appears so quickly that boats at a short distance out have no time to reach the land. The lake is inhabited by enormous crocodiles, which at the mouth of the Victoria Nile are to be seen by thousands. These reptiles, however, are not actively SALT FROM MINERAL EARTH. 137 hunted, there being in the country a large supply of fish and hippopotamus flesh. For fishing they use big iron hooks fastened at intervals to a long line, which is left in the water all night, and taken away very early next morning. The lake is rich in varieties of fish, some of which are of immense size. The flesh is preserved by drying at a flre or by smoking it. The taste and smell acquired by the fish during this preparation may be improved by wrapping it up in earth for a few hours before cooking it. Boats, some of considerable size, are formed from trunks of trees hollowed out ; they are large enough to allow the natives to carry on commerce between the two coasts, especially the salt trade, an important branch of industry diffused over distant points of this exten- sive region. The greatest quantity of this article is obtained from the Kibiro salt-mines, and is the main source from which the inhabitants of that land obtain their livelihood. At Kibiro, the natives gather some whitish earth from the ground, permeated by a stream of mineral water which flows from Mount Kitana, and spreads its wealth in the neighbourhood. This earth is placed eight inches thick in rectangular trenches, prepared for the purpose, and constantly filled with water. After a certain lapse of time, suflicient to saturate it with salt, this water is taken out and boiled for a long time in earthenware vessels. The salt precipitated by evaporation is then dried, wrapped up and moulded into blocks, which are hung from the roof of the huts to keep them dry. The chief of Kibiro annually pays the king a tribute of one thousand of these blocks, weighing about twenty- two pounds each. The monarch distributes this salt 138 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. to the Wahuma shepherds, to Ije given witli water to their cattle ; for the service of his household, he uses Usongora salt. The chief of the salt-works carries on a very active trade in this product, which he exchanges for corn, sesame, oxen, tobacco, wood, cloths, &c. This business is not limited to the recrion of the lake, but extends to Uganda, where on the confines of the country there are many much frequented markets. The king, besides the quantity fixed as a tribute, purchases more, giving oxen in exchange. The land, flat or nearly so, bordering the shores of the lake, is brightened by fields of grain, Colocasia esculeatc, sweet potatoes [Batata edu.lis), and gi-oves of bananas. A variety of nutmeg-tree grows in the woods of Msua ; Indian canes, bamboos, and tamarinds here and there break the majestic obscm'ity of the forests. Flights of cranes and wild ducks are seen in the reed thickets and the swampy spots of the shore, while on the sandy banks plovers,, the foretellers of storms, pursue each other shrieking. Birds of various plumage, innumerable butterflies, flit about in the bushes, and fly merrily over the grassy level land. Elephants and buftaloes come out at sunset from the recesses of the forest in crowds to di^nk at the waters of the lake, but at night they spread ruin over the crops of corn and the banana giwes, joined in their mischief by numerous hippopotami, colonies of chim- panzees, and several varieties of dog-headed apes which live in the Juguro bushes at Msua, and in the east of the Kiriangobi forest. Populous villages are dotted about the coast of the lake. The Magungo Baba occupy the country from the Victoria Nile peninsula as far as the Muenghe territory, which is inhabited by the Wahuma. The Lur live on KING CHUA'S TRIBUTAEIES. 139 the western coast, and although they do not belong to the kingdom of Unyoro, they recognise the supremacy of that monarch. The chiefs Boki, Tukende, and Acoi pay annual tribute to King Chua. Melindwa, the most powerful chief of the Lur on the mountains, is a faithful ally of that great tyrant. The southern regions of the lake by Kavalli, Mpigw^, and Katonzi, formerly rich in cattle, were devastated several times by the raids of the Unyoro men, whose king they acknowledge from motives of fear and interest, although they have never been subdued by him. ( 14" ) CHAPTER VIII. FIRST NEWS OF STANLEY'S APPROACH. Woe to the vanquished — A dignified propwsal — Unexpected answer — Faithful- ness and disinterestedness badly rewarded — Proposals for the soldiers — Death of Hurshid — Cunning policy of the King of Unyoro — Its conse- quences — Ballula on the Vurvira mountain — Enchantment of Sunga and congratulations of Umma — The allied Lango — Contradictory news — Sunga's son — Arrival of Stanley — Emin's departure for Msua — Raids into the countries bordering on the Nile — Search for Stanley — Reticence of the natives — Interior condition of the province — Major Rehan Aga — His de- clarations — His death — New misfortune — Major Hamid Aga — Demands of the soldiers — Ali remains — Emin does not accept ad-sdce from me — Fatal order — Pernicious lull — Demands and proposals of the first battalion — Emin at Kirri — His flight — The firman granting the title of Pasha — Defeat of Befo, chief of the Belinian — Stanley at Ndussuma — The wife of Mpigwa — The brave Mogo— The 27th of April 1888 — Stanley's letter — Advice about the best thing to do. Woe to the vanquished, and I was one of them I The joyous reception soon came to an end. The message which the soldiers Fadl and Hurshid had heard from Guakamatera himself was believed, and strengthened the believers' hope in the future. I was accused of having rendered the iwsition of the Government difficult by my extremely harsh behaviour ; of having carried on, stubbornly and foolishly, the negotiations with the King of Unyoro and his gTandees ; of having ruined the future of the Province, wasted the ivory, lost the advantage of an arranoement for convevino^ the correspondence and for revictualling the storehouses, and of havino- alienated the heart of a friendlv and benevolent king. Emin joined in the accusations, but added that the matter would have no serious conse- A DIGNIFIED PROPOSAL. 141 quences ; that Chua had acted only from personal aversion ; that intercourse with him was about to be resumed by the despatch of a more acceptable am- bassador, and that the prince of Unyoro contemplated with pride the idea of an alliance with " his friend the doctor." On my arrival I proposed sending one of the steamers to Kibiro with a letter for the king, requesting him to give up, within fifteen days, Biri, the soldiers, the guns, and the ivory of the Government, which he had seized, and also my personal eflPects, with the threat that, if he did not yield within the fixed time, the Governor would maintain his right by force and avenge the outrage. This just proposal was unanimouly supported by the most distinguished amongst the officers, who were burning with the desire to give a well-merited lesson to the inhuman tyrant ; but the reply of the Governor did not answer the general expectation. According to him, I ought to be quite satisfied with having got out of the scrape alive, and the most urgent matter was to resume a friendly intercourse with Unyoro on account of the transit of the correspondence through Uganda. This, according to him, was an easy under- taking, which rested entirely with him. Emin's be- haviour at that time was ungrateful and presumptuous ; I therefore maintained a dignified silence, feeling con- vinced in my conscience that I had fulfilled my mission with circumspection and prudence, without intrigues or cowardice. I did not wish for either thanks or recom- pense, but was profoundly wounded to find these accusations supported by a friend in whose service I had risked my life, and referred to with a cunning smile, as if I had been a child. It is true that in my distress I derived much consolation from the friendly words and letters written to me by the officers and employes. 142 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. I sent a request to the Governor that he would re- ward the two soldiers who had been my companions in the flight from Unyoro, and obtained, not without diffi- culty, the consent that Fadl should be promoted to the rank of an officer and Hurshid to that of a non-com- missioned officer. But the latter died shortly after in consequence of an illness he had contracted dm-ing those days of terror and grief From that day, when King Chua began to crave the arms, ivory, and territory of Equatoria, he turned all his attention to acquiring the friendship of the tribes bordering on the Nile and the lake, and fully obtained his object, either through respect or fear. The natives avoided the military stations ; refused to pay tribute of corn, or to serve as carriers, waging thereby an indirect war ; and whenever they felt them- selves strong enough they openly became the attacking party. This situation was rendered more serious from the arrogance and want of discipline among the soldiers, whose continual violence and extortions sowed the seeds of hatred and revenge. Whilst the country lay open to the agents of the King of Unyoro, the Governor could neither get a faithful messenoer nor obtain reliable information. The chiefs Sunga, Boki, Reja, and Okuza were more or less manifestly allied to our bitterest enemy. Ballula, who had entrenched himself on the Vurvii'a mountain, attacked the soldiers of Dufile with muskets, assisted by a strong body of Shooli, besides other men sent by Chua. Okuza laid an ambush for the soldiers who were searching^ for corn on the Tung-uru mountains. Two attempts to send letters to Unyoro failed, and what the king was ])lanning, or what was going on, remained an impenetrable mystery. When asked for news, the natives answered humblv DECEIT OF THE NATIVES. 143 and with apparent eagerness, but gave the most contradictory intelligence. A SHOOLI CIKL. Umma, chief of the country between Tunguru and Msua, went to 'congratulate Emin on his escape from the incantations with which Sunga, by order of King 144 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. Chua, intended to destroy him and all his soldiers ; while Sunga, on the other hand, gave out, most cautiously, the news that five hundred warriors were mustered at Kibiro, and that the peninsula of Magungo was supplied with strong garrisons. Others asserted that the Wanyoro had crossed the Victoria Nile, and were makings arranofements for storming Wadelai, in alliance with the Lango, to whom the king had promised the country of the Shooli. Kolikio, matungoli of the chief Boki, related that he knew, from a reliable source, that Guakamatera had been put in chains on account of the outrage perpe- trated on Biri and myself; whilst Makiera, the Governor's interpreter, assured us that the king had ordered our arrest and execution in a fit of intoxi- cation ; that having recovered consciousness, and hearing that his order had been executed, he was furiously angry. A certain Avanda gave out that the king had given the order against us, on being told of the approach of a hostile body of men towards the lands west of the lake, but had afterwards ordered Guakamatera to send the effects which had been seized to Tunguru, and to announce there the early arrival of an ambassador, as he was convinced he had committed a great error. The son of chief Sunga, who usually resided at the King of Unyoro's Court, having returned to his father in Equatoria, reported that at the time of Bu'i's and my expulsion he was at Mruli, and that he was present at the council when the proposal of our assassination was made and approved ; adding that all hope of re- covering the lost goods and efiects must be given up. " Stanley has arrived," was the news I gave on the 16th, as soon as we were received on boai'd the steamer Khedive, and shortly after I informed Emin of the EMIN GOES TO MEET STANLEY. 145 news communicated to me personally by Ireta's envoy about the body of armed men which had been observed on the south-western shores of the Albert Lake. On the morning of January 30, the Govei'nor embarked direct for Msua in order to go from that station to meet the Relief Expedition. I wished to accompany him, but was prevented from doing so by the unfavourable state of my health, but I was present when he went on board the steamer, greeted by a crowd of officers and employes. He sat down at the stern of the boat, and hearing me repeat a salutation previously unnoticed, he said, " I did not see you ; I thought you had not come." I bit my lips, and smiled. His affected indifference was but the continuation of the anger which had possessed him for several days. As I went away, I thought of the advice given and slio-hted, and of this additional wrong; inflicted on me after the many already suffered. On reaching Msua, Emin heard from all sides uncertain, contradictory, and sometimes disquieting news, all of which detracted from the vaunted probity of the King of Unyoro, and prevented his pursuing the projected reconnoissance. Being convinced of the necessity of repressing the increasing audacity displayed in the tracts adjacent to the eastern shores of the lake, the Governor, on February 6, ordered an expedition into the Magungo territory, on the left shore of the Victoria Nile, and a subsequent attack on the chief Okel lo, who had openly declared himself in favour of Kinof Chua. However, it was impossible to carry out the first part of the plan, because there was not sufficient water for the navigation of the steamer; but the rebel village of Lur was sacked and burned. On the 9th February another raid was made upon those lands, in which they captured a number of goats VOL. n. K 146 TEN YEARS IJs EQUATORIA. and a quantity of corn. On the 12th Emin asked me by letter to go to Msua, to hold a consultation with him about the intended attack on the salt pits of Kibiro, in order to destroy the source of the wealth of that country ; but the fever from which I was sufferincj- compelled me to decline the invitation. At last, on February 25, 1888, Emin started from Msua to look for the Relief Expedition led bv Stanley ; but the search was without success. The chiefs of the villages were very reticent in giving information, and some of them even denied altogether the presence of strangers in the adjacent districts. Others who seemed inclined to speak were prevented from doing so by their people, whilst a few asserted that the whites had been seen near Katonzi, but that they had left long ago. The fatal hand of King Chua, ever raised against us, inspired fear in all, ready as it was to strike us at any moment. On March 6, 1888, Emin returned to the station of Msua. On the 21st, Babedongo, with a strong body of hnnassura, fell ui)on the poor districts south of the lake, and laid them waste, because those populations had favourably received the agents of the Government, and given information to the Governor. On the 18th of March, yielding to Emin's lu-gent request, I went to Msua. He still adhered to the project of attacking Kibiro. However, I succeeded in persuading him, if not to give it up, at least to postpone its execution. I vividly remembered the hospitality and protection bestowed upon me by the chief Kagoro, and the thouglit of the evil which might befell him grieved me. The internal condition of the Province had not im- proved during these last years. Toleration had led to want of discipline, which had been the cause of DEATH OF REHAN AGA. 147 numerous disorders. The authorit}' of the Governor, weakened by persistent attacks, had been almost anni- hilated, and the honours still shown him were of a derisive sort. As far back as the month of April 1886, Major Rehau Ao-a, of the 1st battalion, invited the Governor to an interview at Kirri, in order to have an under- standing- about the conduct of the Government. ' " Who is the Mudir ? " wrote he in his letter. " I cannot receive orders from the Major commanding at Dufile." He declared himself a faithful subject of the Egyptian Government, adding that he and his sub- ordinates would adhere to the resolution of not leavinof the station, but the fear of the Bari, who were not yet subdued, and the probable desertion of the soldiers, who were natives of Maki-aka, compelled him to quit it. Rehan Aga died on May 19, 1886, and his unexpected death gave rise to the suspicion that he had been poisoned, which was corroborated by the fact that shortly before his illness he swore on the Koran that he would rather die than go to the south. Ali Effendi, an Egyptian captain, was pointed out as the assassin. It was another misfortune added to those which had so long afflicted the Province, and which caused further excitement in already irritated minds. Major Hamid Aga was appointed to fill the vacant place. He was an old Soudanese, timid, and of limited intelligence, but beloved by his soldiers for his goodness and honesty in the discharge of his duty, althoup-h inclined to severitv. Accompanied by Selim Aga and the doctor, he pre- sented himself to the troops, who unanimously promised him obedience, but demanded the dismissal of Major Hawashi, and that his intercourse with Emin should cease. 148 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. " If the Governor wants corn, give us spades and we will cultivate the land for him," the troops said. Hamid, Selim, and the doctor prepared to return to the Pasha to inform him of the state of affairs, but the soldiers opposed the departure of Ali Effendi. " The Mudir said he was going to Gondokoro, but instead of that he has fled. Now, if you go, who re- mains to take care of us ? Are we not still the Viceroy's soldiers ? " And prudence required that Captain Ali should remain. At that time the troops (not yet openly mutinous) could easily have been brought to obedience, had wise concessions been granted and energetic measures taken. I had already written from Juaya to Emin, endeavour- ing to persuade him to get rid of Hawashi, an intriguer, who had been the first cause of the lamentable condition into which the Province had fallen, and to replace him by a man of more courage and probity ; also to arrest and remove Captains Ali Aga and Ghiaden Aga, who were the leaders of the opposition at Pejaf But Emin turned a deaf ear to my counsel. He did not like to break off the alliance with Hawashi, which he himself had sought, and fear prevented his proceeding energetically against the other two ofiicers. The spectre of open rebellion haunted him, and of all the measures which appeared most opportune he chose the worst. He again pomjiously gave the order for evacuating the stations, granting authority to punish with death any refusal ; the command, however, re- mained a dead letter, and only served to increase the animosity already existing against him. Emin thus lost more of his prestige. A long lull followed this storm. Instead of applying to the Governor when in difiiculties, the officers acted in DEPUTATION SENT TO EMIN. 149 an independent fashion, their only communications being formal documents about accounts, which were conveyed as far as the boundary of the territory over which they held jurisdiction. Emin, unable to recover the reins of command which had been wrested from him, consoled himself with the hope of a better morrow, to be brought about by un- foreseen circumstances. Twelve long months passed without a conciliatory word from the 1st battalion. Suddenly, in October 1887, a deputation was sent to the Governor with a letter urging him to go to Rejaf, and attend a general assembly there, to arrange about then- submission, which they offered on the following- conditions : — Removal of Major Hawashi from Dufile, and appointment of another in his place ; removal of Captain Selim Aga for fraudulence in the distribution of the linen acquired in Uganda ; grants of promotion similar to those lately bestowed on the 2nd battalion ; compulsion of the commanding officer to take up his residence in Kejaf, together with his family, and the appointment of Captain Ali Aga as his adjutant ; moreover, that the account department should be re- organised according to law, and the vice-governor, who had been suspended for three years, reinstated. They concluded by saying they were not unwilling to leave Maki-aka, and to go south later on, but above all they wished to confer with him free from any pernicious influence, and to show him clearly who were the real disturbers of the peace of the Province. Emin, trusting in a complete success, hurriedly left Msua on the lake, and went to Wadelai (November 1887), whence, after settling the most urgent affairs, he journeyed to Dufile, where the display of false zeal and the revelations poured into his ear, damped his ardour. Travelling from station to station^ he 150 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. reached Kirri, and found himself in a snare. Diffident and suspicious, he sent ignorant spies to liejaf, and thus excited distrust in others. He refused to go there ; hstened to miserable insinuations, and separated himself from his old soldiers, whom he had called around him. Meanwhile he was expected at Rejaf, and the officers, alarmed by the delay of his arrival, considered themselves in duty bound to satisfy the will of the soldiers, who exclaimed : " Let the Governor be fetched, let him be brought to us " ; but another plan prevailed. Ali Aga was to arrest Emin and take him to Gondokoro, where he was to be kept in custody. The latter fled hastily in the night, without escort or effects, and shut himself up in Muggi, ordering that should any soldiers appear on the road to Kirri they were to be repelled by force. At Muggi he received the firman bestowing upon him the title of Pasha, which I had sent from Juaya on December 2 ; but the public mind was uneasv and bent on disbelievino- evervthinof, and Emin withdrew towards the south, gladdened by the triumphal honours conferred upon him along the road, by the faithful of the 2nd battalion. Having reached Dufild he repealed some severe measures ; reinstated the vice-governor and his secretary, and continued his journey towards Wadelai and Tunguru, where he re- ceived the news of the misfortune which had befallen me, and was cast down by this additional failure of his expectations. Uncertain and hesitating as to what he should do, he asked by private letter for the despatch of two companies of the 1st battalion, to resist the King of Unyoro, but his request was refused. In March 1888, the soldiers of Rejaf defeated Befo, chief of the Bari of Belinian. Emboldened by this victory, and enriched by the pillage of cattle, they re- THE REBEL SOLDIERS. 151 MAJuU IIAWA.-^III KIH;M>I. garrisoned the places about Makraka which had been abandoned, and estabhshed autonomous administration. On his return to Tunguru, Emin made every effort to TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. obtain news of the Relief Expedition. The Negi'oes of Msua asserted that some armed strangers and white men were in the territory of Nd\issuma, and it was said that the wife of chief Mpigwa, who was a native of that country, had seen them. Mogo, a bold mountaineer of Msua, well known in the regions adjacent to the lake for his frequent excursions, was despatched in the beginning of April with a letter for Stanley. On the 20th we heard from Stanley that he was at Nyamsanzi, awaiting the answer to the letter he had given to Mpigwa. At sunset on April 23, when we were assembled as usual at the Governor's house, musket shots were heard on the road leading from the mountain to the station, causing us to rush out at once. An officer of, the British Expedition, bearing a letter from its commander, had arrived the evening before at Msua, where he had stopped, in the expectation of a meeting with Emin Pasha. On the evening of the 27th, by the dim light of a lamp, Emin read and translated to me and to Hassan the long letter sent by Stanley. It was an Odyssey full of the vicissitudes, sufferings, and misfortunes undergone by the Expedition ; of the sickness, starvation, incle- mency of the weather, and the difficulties of the route. An immense, impracticable, and uninhabited forest ; an almost continual scarcity of provisions had decmiated its forces. Compelled by necessitv, he had divided it, leaving the main body at Yambuva, and the sick at Fort Bodo ; while he, accompanied by Dr. Parke, Mr. Jephson, and 130 armed men, had regained the lake,' which had alreadv been visited bv him at the end of the preceding December. Having finished reading tJiis letter, which sm-prised us more than we had expected, Emin asked my opinion ADVICE TO EMIN. 153 as to what ought to be done under the circumstances, and I candidly said : " The position in which Stanley has placed himself is not flattering either to his hopes or ours. His com- munication with the main body of the Expedition has been broken for months. We cannot follow him to join it, on account of the difiiculties of the route he has chosen. Such an adventure would be folly ; it Avould be rushing headlong to perdition. Therefore, it seems more advisable that he should rejoin the main body and return with it to us. This implies a delay of more than eight months, and the chance of our waiting for his return in vain. In my opinion, since the last explorations of Grenfell have proved the Obangi to be our Makua, I think such a route would be a favourable one for the exodus. It lies through countries familiar to us, and well supplied with provisions ; and the natives are friendly. The soldiers would certainly not decline to follow it, Mambettu-land being well known to them all by reputation. I believe that the natives would come forward to supply our needs, because they are accus- tomed already to see their country crossed by armed strangers, for whom they entertain feelings, if not of sympathy, at least of respect ; therefore my opinion is that we should fulfil the duty of visiting Stanley, and thanking him for his heroic display of perseverance in our favour, that we should assist him with the help, however small, the province can afford, but at the same time inform him of our resolution." At that time, and under the impression of a new and unforeseen event, Emin thought the advice wise, and said that he agreed with it. ( m ) CHAPTER IX. ARRIVAL OF THE EXPEDITIOX. Emin appeals to the philanthropy and humanity of the English people — Stanley is summoned — The road to be followed by the Relief Expedition — There is no other than that of the Congo — Provisions fail — The Expedition separates — A disastrous road — Route proposed by Felkin recommended by Schweinfurth and Junker — Peters on the eastern road — Route by Kibali and the Bomokandi — The 29th of April 1888 — Henr}- Stanley — Hope and joy — Emin is not decided about his departure — I remain with Emin — Stanley refuses to perform an act of courtesy by visiting the station — Emin does not explain the dissensions in the Province — His good faith is not justified — Jephson remains with Emin — Stanley's letter and sword — - Stanley's proposals to Emin about the future — Scientific labours bear fruit — An angle of Lake Victoria — The arrival of Stanley increases our weakness — Stanley's error in dividing his Expedition — The post of com- mander — Departure of Stanley — King Chua does not forget us — Horrible butchery at Kibiro — The arrogance of King Chua does not alter — He knows of our precarious condition — Minds are agitated — A complaint is made to Stanley — Consequent anger and indignation — Measures of excessive rigour — I cannot succeed in restraining Emin's hand — Jephson incredulous as to my experience and knowledge — The fruit of four years' work and observation — Faithful to the Pa^ha — Advice that I gave Emin. Emin had appealed, at the end of 1885, to the philan- thropy and humanity of the English people, and not in vain, for the eminently practical genius of that nation, excited by the pathetic and persuasive words of the Rev. Mr. Felkin, for the preservation of Gordon's lieu- tenant, grasped the idea of the use that might be derived from the gfenerous undertakino-. And the English Government, whilst formulating its adhesion to a Relief Expedition of an exclusively national charactei', availed itself also of the vegis of the Crescent. While effecting the liberation of Emin it clearly saw the possibility of carrying out practical projects for an STANLEY'S AID REQUESTED. 155 accession of territory and for the triumph of British supremacy in the region of the Equatorial lakes. Prompt action answered the request for aid, the dona- tions of the benevolent were ready and abundant, and the ivory, shut in by the Soudanese rebellion, charmed the imagination of many. The enterprise, at once daring and cautious, needed a leader who could be relied on, and Sir William Mackinnon, obtained the co-operation of Stanle}'. He, with the eminent qualities that distinguish him, overcoming a thousand difficulties, in a short time organised the Expedition, and rejecting various projects as to the road to be taken (after having allowed them to be discussed from mere complaisance), decided on that of the Cong-o — the g'lorious scene of his former feats. The eastern road by Zanzibar was rejected by him through fear of the desertion of the porters and from the probability of causing danger to the mis- sionary stations ; the want of water and provisions made the road across the Masai country also unacceptable for the transit of a numerous caravan ; and the 200,000 warriors of the Nkole gave an uncomfortable perspec- tive of the route from Usukuma to Karagua and the Albert Lake. He had to reach Emin with arms, am- munition, and merchandise, and he could not guarantee the success of the Expedition by these routes. The certaintv of receivinof substantial aid from the King of the Belgians induced him to select the road that crossed the Free State of the Cong^o. He knew the country ; was certain of not having to fight with hostile tribes ; and did not fear the desertion of his porters or wounding the susceptibility of the Germans. On that road there were no missionary establishments whose safety might be endangered ; and the certainty 156 TEN YEARS IK EQUATORIA. of arriving in full force was apparent. Such was his belief The reasons of Felkin, supported by the authoritative Avords of Schweinfurth and Junker, had no weight with him, and Thompson's opinion as to the way thiough the Masai had no better success ; even Wills, who, though suggesting the road by the Congo, •advised reascending the Obangi-Makua, had not the pleasure of seeing his proposition discussed. Stanley, being the discoverer of the course of the •Congo, and the founder of the Free State, bound as he was by agreement with the King of the Belgians, and by ties of sentiment with that coui itrv, was induced to take this route by the thought of again seeing the well-known valley, ascertaining its progress, and eventually the errors of administration committed by his successors. Leaving the Congo, he decided to reascend the Aruwimi, which he had already identified with Schwein- furth's Welle, hoping also to complete explorations in the basin of the great river, for which purpose he had solicited the despatch of fifteen whale-boats from England. Facts, however, proved contrary to the prevision of the leader. The flotilla of the Congo was in a deplorable state ; the whale-boats were not sent, and he was obliged to avail himself of the assistance of a steamer of the English mission ; the conduct of the members of the caravan kept the natives away from the markets, and the want of provisions put him at a disadvantao-e from the very first. The difiiculties of proceeding rapidly augmented every day, and he found himself constrained to separate from the main body of the Expedition — not yet completely assembled — and speedily direct his steps towards the lake in order to arrive in time to save Emin, who, according to Junker, had not means to defend himself after December. The route led him across the Great Forest, where STANLEY'S ARRIVAL. 157 his people were decimated by the hostiHty of the natives, by hunger, sickness, and desertion ; and it was only at the end of one hundred and sixty-five days after his departure from Yambuya that he arrived at Kavalli, near Lake Albert, with little more than one hundred men, and necessity compelled him to erect Fort Bodo, at about ten days' journey from the lake, in order to collect the Zanzibaris scattered along the march. If the Expedition had followed the route pro- posed by Felkin, and approved by Junker, as more feasible, shorter, and less perilous, it would have gained the lake in a shorter time, and with the forces nearly intact. The return journey to Bagamyo of the column under Stanley effected by this itinerary proves the truth of this assertion. Neither has the reason of the desertions greater value. He suffered far more from these on the Aruwimi than Peters did on the eastern road across the country of the Masai, with means quite as scanty and limited, in a rapidly completed journey that led to Lake Baringo, near the Nile, towards Wadelai, and returning to Uganda by Karagua to the region of Lake Victoria and thence to Zanzibar ; so that if Stanley had abandoned the valley of the Aruwimi and taken a northern direction in order to arrive at the valley of the Makua, he could — by traversing the rich countries of the Bomokandi, Kibali, and Makraka — have either descended into the valley of the Nile or reached the source of the Kibali by an unexplored and most interesting route, whence he could have proceeded to Wadelai. Towards sunset the steamer Kliedive (April 29, 1888) arrived in the Were roadstead. Stanley was encamped at a little distance, near the village of chief Katonzi. Emin wished to go to him without delay. We went down to the boat, and in less than an hour reached thfr j 158 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. landing-place ; cries of joy, the discharges of rifles, and shaking of hands accompanied us to the tent of the chief of the Expedition, who, cap in hand, saluted us gravely. Our visit was of brief duration, but cordial, and was concluded by the reciprocal drinking of healths in brimming glasses of sparkling champagne. The following morning Stanley joined us with his Zanzibaris, and we formed a camp at Nsabe, in the territory of Cliief Mpigwa. Emin did his best to supply shoes, linen, tobacco, salt, honey, grain, and sesame to the Expedition, equipped and sent out from Europe to his aid. The rescuers were rescued, but a jDainful and un- certain shadow veiled the joy that ought to have been complete and general ; and yet Stanley, con- fiding in his fortune and lucky star, put the ques- tion about the return of those who intended to comply with the Viceroy's decree and that of his Minister, Nubar Pasha. Emin subjected his decision to that of the majority of his people, and I, faithful to my promise of assisting him, though desu-ous of putting an end to our sufferings, declared myself ready to share his future prospects, nor would it have been wise to have arrived at any other decision, A de- cided separation from Emin would have excited dis- content, for already the people who had come with us looked with wonder, eyes wide open and dubious hearts, at this remnant of the Expedition, of which the Governor had sung so many praises, and which he had taus'ht them to consider a fount of comfort. Of what value were thirty cases of Remington car- tridges ? They had not in the least changed the situation of the Equatorial Province. Emin profoundly felt the sad impression that must be produced by the description of the miseries sufiered. I SOLDIERS AND EMPLOYES CONSULTED. 159 and the difficulties of the road, that the soldiers and Zanzibaris would not have failed to give to our people ; and repeatedly addressed entreaties to Stanley, begging him to show himself to the inhabitants, and visit the nearest stations within reach of the steamer. The employes and soldiers had received no pay for five years ; they were partly the refuse of the Egyp- tian armv, but they had resisted the rebellion, had fouo'ht for their Sovereig-n, and there had been few desertions amongst them. Yet Stanley remained firm in his refusal, alleging the shortness of the time, though he afterwards stayed at Nsabe for about a month. Emin bowed his head with resignation, trusting to chance, not having sufficient energy to force events. I told him many times to unreservedly make known the situation of the Province — the dissensions that troubled it — the reality so opposed to the delusions that passed through the minds and mouths of every one in Europe and Egypt. He promised me that he would do so, but I have reason to believe that he only threw out vague hints at times on these vital matters. To confess his own powerlessness, and censure his own errors, was repugnant to his proud mind. His nomination to the rank of Pasha, and the admiration and interest shown by the entire world in his favour, ought to have readily silenced every scandal, and given new strength to his prestige. The chief of the Relief Expedition, complying with the Governor's express desires, at once convened the soldiers and employes to consult them as to their intentions. Those who wished to go to Egypt should assemble at Nsabe and at Nyamsanzi, to await his return from Yambuya with the main body of the Expedition, which had been left there with the provisions. 160 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. He recognised the certain and inevitable perils of the route to the Aruwimi, and proposed the one through Karagua and Usukuma (which was rich in supplies) to Zanzibar, thus overcoming' his former fears caused bv the great fierceness of the numerous warriors of Nkole. To facilitate preparations for the exodus and com- pensate Emin, to a certain extent, for his refusal to show himself in the Province, Stanley readily com- plied with the request made to him by the Governor, that an officer of the Expedition should remain with the latter. Jephsoii was selected for this far from easy mission, to fulfil which he was furnished with a letter from the head of the Expedition (Stanley), in which the in- tentions of the Viceroy and his Ministers were clearly set forth and the position of those who preferred to remain was frankly explained. The letter concluded : " I send you one of my officers, Mr. Jephson, and give him my sword, to read this message to you from me. I go back to collect my people and goods, and bring them on to the Nyanza, and after a few months I shall come back here to hear what you have to say. If you say, ' Let us go to Egypt, ' I will then show you a safe road. If you say, ' We shall not leave this country,' then I wiU bid you farewell and return to Egypt with my own people." The future of Emin seemed especially to preoccupy Stanley. Deferring his decision about his return to Egypt and Europe to the time when he should have con- centrated the forces of the Expedition, scattered aloiig- the Aruwimi, Stanley suddenly threw a new bait to the excited hopes of the Governor ; and one day, en- deavouring to persuade Emin of the impossibility of maintaining himself in the Province against the invasion of Mahdism, he gave him a brilliant description STANLEY'S PROPOSALS. Ifil of his project of conducting him and his people to the north-east corner of Lake Victoria, that they might dwell there, and by a series of successive stations, established on the road to Mombasa, render himself useful to the British East African Company, which would not hesitate to give fixed employment to him and his followers. This project, so flattering in appearance, made Emin forget the material and moral difhculties that opposed the realisation of it, and rendered Stanley still more fer- vent in his efforts to strengthen the British undertak- ing, and gain for it (if possible) the military force that served under Emin. And Emin, forgetful of the most elementary prudence, boasted of this arrangement to his people, thus engendering, later on, a mistrust in their minds and the fear of being sold and torn away from their brothers in religion. When with firm con- viction he hinted at his strong sympathy for the British nation and with great satisfaction praised him- self for such faith, he believed that the solution of the difficult problem was near. " Thus my scientific labours," he used to say, " have borne good fruit. Who would have thought that a bird and a butterfly woidd have proved so useful to me and my people ? " Stanley finally offered to incorporate the Province of Equatoria with the Congo State, if he were assured of reasonable conditions. Naturally such a proposal was rather in compliance with instructions he had received than from a conviction of the probability of its being- feasible. The fate of the Relief Expedition was so eloquent as to render any reply needless. Emin did not hesitate, and, with due reserve for the rights of the Egyptian Government and the duty that bound him to it, manifested his full adhesion to the VOL. II. L 162 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. project of establishing himself on the Victoria Lake, declaring- that that might be effected, both on account of the shortness of the journey and the undoubted con- sent of his people. He was deceiving himself, and the delusion that it shortly after proved shed bitterness in his heart. The satisfaction with which Emin related these conversations with Stanley, caused me sad reflection, and I did not cease encouraging my friend to seriously consider the political situation of the Province and to recall the true position of it to his mind. " Stanley's coming," I added, " augments your weak- ness instead of increasino- vour authoritv. The matters discussed here at the end of the lake, and beyond the Province, between you and Stanley, without witnesses, will excite mistrust and lead to disorders. The Expedi- tion cannot return under eight months, everything being favourable. The enterprise may still fail, and then what way of escape will be left us ? " On May 16, 1888. I took leave of Stanley, and returned to Tunguru. During the time that Stanley stayed at Nsabe, he gained some insight perhaps into Equatorial affairs, and perceived that they were not in the condition repre- sented to him ; but he had not leisure to enter into the matter, anxious as he was about the fate of the princi- pal body of the Expedition that he had left behind at Yambuya. Great was the responsibility he had assumed in breaking up the party. The need of procuring all the porters required for transporting the surplus loads, and to bring back the famous million's worth of ivory that was in the Province, which, as had been discussed and agreed with the Egyptian Government in London, was partly to be devoted to the defraying of the expenses of the Relief, led Stanley to commit this error. Listead STANLEY LEAVES NSABE. 168 of sendiiit>' an exploring- detachment to the lake under an expert and daring officer, and remaining himself behind to direct the more unportant work, thus securing the triumph of the undertaking, his inordinate desire for doing everything himself, and his ardent wish not to let a crumb of glory fall into the lap of others, impelled Stanley (forgetful of the importance of the charge which had been entrusted to him and not , to others) to give summary orders, placing between him- self and the principal column an enormous distance, an impenetrable forest, silence and doubt, for long consecutive months. He decided to return, and assisted by about a hundred porters, supplied by Emin, left Nsabe, May 24. The region of the lake was acquiring the greatest importance in the course of events in Equatoria ; it was to be the road and base for the march to Zanzibar. The security of the passage and the attitude of the natives were two indispensable conditions for the success of our affairs ; but the King of Unj^'oro was always our bitterest enemy, and he used every effort to keep ahve and awaken the animosity of the populations against the soldiers of the Government. In the early part of May, Babedongo concentrated troops in Muenghe for the purpose of watching over the movements in the camp at Nsabe ; one of his spies was arrested in the neighbourhood, and later on put to death at Msua. Boats laden with salt, and conducted by the hanassurct of Wanyoro, were confiscated on the shores of Melindwa ; the chiefs Sunga, Boki, Reja, and Okuza were imprisoned, accused of having medi- tated a massacre of the soldiers and a general rising. Emin, after having caused Juguro, the chief of the 164 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. mountain, to be put to death at Msua, for being suspected of plotting (in conjunction with MeHndwa) against the garrison, saw the agitation spread, and, perceiving the insufficiency of partial repression, ordered the burning of Kibiro, in order to destroy the great market which was the pride and wealth of the country of Unyoro. It was the night of May 30, 1888— the peaceful inhabitants of the village were placidly reposing, ignorant of the dreadful misfortune about to fall on them. The two steamers, knowing nothing, cast anchor in the roadstead, while the soldiers and armed Liu- remained cautious and silent ; a horrible stillness as of death reigned all round ; the men were seen in groups at the corners of the scattered habitations. At a given signal, the drums beat, the trumpets sounded, and flames sprang forth, filling the barren recesses and invading the huts ; flight was impossible ; everywhere were heard cries, imprecations, and the despairing anguish of the dying ; the miserable fugitives were shot down ; the country became a scene of extermination ; women, children, and infants were seized, stabbed, and cast into the flames by the frenzied assailants. In a short time nothinof remained of Kibiro but smokinof ashes. Their horrible thirst for blood being appeased, the thievish and drunken gang began to sack the place ; goats, salt, and all that had been spared by the flames were stolen and carried off", and the salt-pits devastated. The soldiery, with festive shouts and military arrogance, triumphantly returned to Msua, di'unk with the horrible butchery of women and children. "I do not thank you," said Emin to the commander of this expedition, " for the zeal you have displayed and the cruelty you have committed." The glad news reached me at that time that Kagoro, THE CHIEF OF KIBIRO'S ESCAPE. 1G5 chief of Kibiro, had escaped the massacre. Fortune so willed it, that a few days before the event he had been called to the kinof on some business. Pleasant memories and gratitude bound me to him, for succour that he had given me in the time of persecution ; I was delighted to be spared the grief of seeing him involved in the massacre. Nor did the aveno-ino- hand rest here ; all the villai^es on the coast of Magungo were assailed and robbed ; the territory of Amara and the residence of Ntiabo, the king's wife, were sacked and burnt. In this manner it was believed that they would conquer the pride and curb the arrogance of King Chua ; it caused him to suspend open violence for a while, but he redoubled his intrigues. He was aware of the disorders that impaired the Equatorial Government, and smiled, well pleased at our weakness ; being certain of the support of the natives, he prepared for the time when he would be able to realise his ambitious projects. The dissensions which had desolated the Province for some time, had little by little alienated the minds of the greater number from loyalty to the superior authority. Some repressions, perhaps not always just and proportionate, had produced a curi-ent of wrath, ready to break into open rebellion upon the first opportunity that presented itself They conspired in secret, solely on account of the isolation that sur- rounded the little State ; fear rendered the malcontents watchful and prudent, and a veil of submissive fidelity concealed the actions of the discontented soldiers of the 1st battalion, who were still decided not to recede from their pretensions. It was the calm that precedes the gathering together of the tempest clouds. 166 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOKIA. The appearance of Stanley, instead of hushing com- plaints and concentrating men's minds on the thought of ajjproaching relief, still further inflamed their latent passions. The unjust sufferings, the uncurbed tyranny, the favours shown to a few dishonest persons, the desire for revenge, were the themes of agitated conversation at the stations, on receiving news of the arrival of the Relief Expedition. Later on, the refusal of Stanley to entei' the Province, and ignorance of that which had been arranged at Nsabe, augmented the num- bers of the discontented, and opened the way to the sti'angest conclusions. The sup])osition that treaties were entered into for the cession of the Province to strangers, very soon appeared a certainty not to be doubted. During Stanley's stay at Nsabe, Captain Abdul-Waab Eliendi, and the clerk Ahmed Mahmoud, the first formerly adjutant and the last secretary to the Governor, presented themselves to the leader of the Expedition, lodging an accusation against Emin, and drawing a very unflattering pictiu'e of what had trans- pired in the Province in the last few years. Stanley listened to their complaints and counselled them to wait patiently for his return, begging them ,also to persuade their comrades to concord and obedience, and to turn their attention to carefull}' preparing for the departure to Egypt. He, prudently and with much sense, thought it would not be wise to speak to the Governor about the denunciation he had received, lest it should cause fresh complications, and interfere with military discipline. Hardly was Stanley gone, wdien Emin heard of this circumstance, and was so full of angei- and indignation that he could not pass over the matter ; wounded to the quick by the confidences made to the leadei- of the DISCONTENT SPREADS. 167 Expedition, self-love moved him to an infraction of militaiy discipline. Emin arrived at Tunguru, June 3, 1888, with a gloomy countenance and heavy heart ; he had been informed of the discontent that was sjoreading amongst the soldiers and employes, and supported by the wicked counsels and unwise deeds of Major Hawashi Effendi, and he consented to a secret inquiry intended to strike at the mutineers and malcontents. It was a list of proscription, in which the major, by yielding to private hatred, sealed his evil labour of so many years. I had attentively followed the spirit of general dis- content that afflicted the Province for some time, and had several times persuaded the Governor to adopt a more conciliatory policy, that might avail to maintain the crumbling edifice in tolerable condition till the time of our departure. Rigorous measures that in former times would have been of use in consolidating authority, had then no probability of success, in consequence of the general alienation of the people's minds. This coiu'se was naturally repugnant to Emin, but force of circumstances exacted it, because he had himself brought on the situation by his own actions ; but once more, instead of accepting my prudent counsel, given in a cordial spirit of friendship, he gave himself up to a policy of repression and rigour, supported by the heated encouragement of Jephson, who, relying on the principle — not denied by any one — that energy produces salutary effects, even advised that the two culprits who had complained to Stanley against their own Govei'nor, should suffer the extreme penalty. He did not know the political con- dition of the Province, nor did present circumstances lead him to modify the ideal that had been engraved on his heart and mind in England, where he had heard the praises of the prisoners in Equatoria sung. However, a 168 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. lighter sentence was passed : the captain was reduced to the rank of second Heutenant, the secretary was put in irons, several of the other officers were reduced in rank, and the Vice-Governor, Osman Latif, was deprived of his office. On the morning of June 6 the steamer Nyanza was ready to start, and only waited the consignment of the mail ; I resolved to try once more to turn Emin from his impolitic deliberations and excessive severity ; I went and spoke to him, but by way of reply he accused me of trying to rule him and usurp his privileges ; I bowed, saluting him, and returned to mv house. Mr. Jephson, seeing how I acted after the last in- cident, and that I did not frequent Emin's house as was my wont, came to see me, and reproaching me gently for my want of respect to the head of the Government, begged me to resume our old relations, as, in his opinion, Emin had been quite right in exercising his full authority. I smiled, undei'standing that he had interpreted my mode of acting as a defence of punished individuals, and endeavoured to make him comprehend that the affairs of the country and public tranquillity were getting worse and worse, and that Emin by his actions was hastening its ruin ; on his part, he shook his head with an in- credulous air, and, smiling, showed his surprise at hearing me utter words so little in Emin's favour, whom all Eui'ope considered a scientist, administrator, and soldier. "One day you will do me justice, Mr. Jephson," I said ; "I am the friend of Emin, and it is precisely on account of this friendship that I have never concealed the truth from him. And now, even to you who have a difficult and delicate mission to fulfil, I think it right to make known my opinion on the affau's of the EXCUSES OF THE TROOPS. 169 Province." I did not, howevei', allow myself to be persuaded to give in to Emin, and kept from his pre- sence. On June 23, Jeplison, accompanied by the Governor, presented himself to the assembled troops of the Presi- dency of Tunguru, to question them as to their inten- tions with regard to Stanley's proposal, presented in the name of the Viceroy of Egypt. The voting did not result in any explicit declaration, but was ambiguous, covei'ed with a thousand protests of servile hypocrisy ; " faithful to the Pasha, we will do exactly what he may decide to do, " was the refrain repeated from line to line and man to man. The officers and employes, interrogated by Jephson apart in his own house, expressed still more emphati- cally their devotion and respect, and confirmed and repeated to satiety their declarations of esteem for their Governor. But when discussing- the situation among- themselves these were the subjects which inflamed their minds : The road was difficult — full of dang-ers for children — without means of subsistence ; there was the danger of being sold to the English — the Pasha was so intimate and friendly with them ; and not only in Tunguru station were these ideas commented upon, but they rapidly spread everywhere. Rigorous measures had roused people's minds, everything was looked upon with suspicion and judged with despair and anger ; but Emin and Jephson, ignorant of the hurricane that was gathering, decided to proceed in the work of scrutiny, and their departure from Wadelai was fixed for the 26th. Struck by their careless serenity, I charged Vita Hassan, in my name, to advise Emin to suspend all discussions concerning our departure, for the present, and to say that I wished him to wait a little, so that 170 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. the j)iiblic mind might be relieved from its present agitation and be brought to look at matters in their proper light ; adding that if Je])hson persisted in continuing the work of inquiry at the stations, Emin should allow him to do it, but that he ought not to move from Wadelai ; I only feared for him — there was no danger for Jephson : a guest would certainly be treated with respect. ( 1-1 ) CHAPTER X. EMINS ARREST. An old slave of the Baggara — Beginning of the rebellion — A despot and a drunkard — Captain Fatelmula — The Jfasha at Dufile — Opposition of the soldiers of Kirri — Insult to the Governor — The station of Muggi and Abdallali Menze — Threatening attitude of the soldiers at Lahore — Return to Dufile — Prisoners of the rebels — Ahmed Dinkani — Resignation of Emin — I hold the knife by the handle — I receive the sad news — I resolve to go to Emin — Conduct of the rebels at Tunguru — The news of Stanley's return and its subsequent contradiction — At Wadelai — Agreement amongst the Egyptians — My arrival at Dufile — Permission to remain with Emin — Interview with Emin and Vita Hassan — A sitting of the revolutionary assembly — Surprise prepared by the factions — Dismissal of Emin Pasha — I advise Emin to sign his name — The new Governor — Violence against Major Hawashi — Fear of Stanley's return — My sympathy for Emin — Proposed transportation of the prisoners — I oppose the insane projjosal — " I'll have him put in chains " — Search of the Governor's house and that of the doctor — Little Ferida — The commander of Msua retires to the mountains — The Mahdists in Rejaf waters — Horrible massacre — The three dervishes and Omar Saleh's letter — Emin's advice — They want war — Imprisonment maintained — Selim Matera and Solyman persuaded by me — Defeat of the troops — Emin and Hassan are enabled to settle at Wadelai — Departure from Dufile. No sooner had Emin left Tunyuru than the commander 172 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. thrashed," which he uttered in presence of his timid followers. Astonished, I endured this insolence with- out retorting, but next day I went to his quarters with a letter for the Pasha, requesting that it should be despatched without delay. Perhaps he was astonished at my indiiference, and probably repented of his disgraceful conduct, but anyhow, a few days after, he excused himself throug'h one of his confidants. Nor did he confine himself to advisincr his soldiers and subordinates, but endeavoured to extend the fire of rebellion. He sent messengers to Fatelmula Aga, one of his compatriots and a captain of the Fatiko garrison, asking him to become his ally for the sake of their common safety, to preveiit, by his co-operation, the evils which the Pasha was about to let loose on the Province, and lastly to assume a discretional power over the northern stations, while he intended to keep under those of Tunguru, Msua, and Wadelai. The seditious appeal was responded to (secretly at first) by disafiected and eager men ; but the incessant and most cunning organisation of the consjjiracy could be in- ferred from the frequent journeys of messengers, and from Aga's unusual activity with his oflScers and employes. He acted as absolute master ; and woe to him who attempted to oppose his uncurbed will. Keason, justice, civility, and freedom were trodden under foot. The soldiers themselves were indignant on account of the imjust and inhuman acts perpetrated, and the Donaola were even in fear of their lives. The station became dull and lonely ; only the colossal figure of the despot could be seen at the door of the military ofiice, often shaking with excessive rage, which became ferocious when it was excited by abundant libations. Durino- the niofht a loud beating of drums, sounds of fifes and o^unshots, were sio^ns of the orofies which the EMIN DECEIVED BY THE REBELS. 173 commander and his worthy friends enjoyed. The con- spiracy, arranged by Soudanese roughness, assisted by Egyptian mahce, soon attained its aim. Low passions as well as just resentment allied with each other on account of the conditions which weighed so painfully on every mind ; and this alliance led to victory. The whole body of officers and officials was acted upon as if a magic wand had been brought into play, and the com- mander, Fatelnmla Aga, was clever enough to succeed in assuming ths) part of main exponent of the planned revolt. Emin and Jephson ignored the machinations which were in course of organisation, and were deaf to the advice already given by me that they should use moderation and political prudence. They reckoned the homage proffered by a deputation of the 1st battalion, sent from Dufile for the purpose, as a triumph ; and, having been cheered and comforted by the welcome reception arranged by Major Hawashi, they decided to proceed at once towards the stations of the north and to initiate there the consultations about the evacuation of the Province. The soldiers at Kirri unanimously answered the question put to them ; they all approved of the pro- posal of departing for Egypt ; thus giving an example of respectful obedience, perhaps without depth of con- viction ; but at any rate it was necessary to act pru- dently and moderately, that is to say, the exodus should have been carried out with discipline and with a sense of fitness in regard to the object in view. Unfortunately, precipitation and the hobby of acting authoritatively everywhere, even in this case, in which the Khedive had granted freedom of choice to every one, caused the good intentions exhibited at first, to be followed by evil results. Emin ordered the ammunition to be 174 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. sent to the Dufil^ storehouse, but the soldiers opposed it to a man ; mistrust seized then- minds, they found that they were no longer free to act as they would, but compelled to submit immediately, under the penalty, if they did not obey, of being abandoned, with their families, to the mercy of the natives and external enemies. Emin ought to have been aware of the irritable and suspicious temper of Negro soldiers. His yielding to them was doubly fatal, for he was powerless to enforce his personal authority, and was obliged to endure insults, to the detriment of his prestige. Stanley's letter and the sword displayed by Jephson were con- sidered as contrivances to uphold falsehood. " Treason is manifest, but to defeat it, is not difficult if we are united." Such were the words uttered in all the garrisons, and the plots which had been kept secret by the few immediately became the will of the majority. Nor could anything better be expected from the soldiers of the Rejaf station, for the danger of Emm being arrested and imprisoned at Gondokoro was now very much greater than in December 1887. The deputation of officers who had come forward in order to calm the public mind, kept silent for several days, and such silence was considered as a sign of hostihty. Emin and Jephson agreed to retire to Muggi. There another attempt was made, through the brave captain, Abdallah Menze, who, they hoped, would be able to increase the public feeling of confidence in the Government ; and that by his example public excitement would subside and calm be restored in the minds of the soldiers. These, out of respect for theii* commander, remained faithful to discipline, consented to the proposal of abandoning the country in order to return to Egypt, and offered no resistance to the THE OPEN MUTINY. 175 transport of nineteen boxes of ammunition from their magazine to that of Dufile, No message was received. The officers of Rejaf and Bedden remained stubbornly silent, whilst the soldiers of Kirri persisted in their determination. No news came as to the course of arrangements in the southern EMIN AND THK MUTINEERS. stations ; only a few messengers from Lahore succeeded in eluding the vigilance of the guards. After fourteen days of miserable uncertainty, the Governor resigned himself to the idea of returning. On August 13, 1888, the troops of Lahore were arrayed in the village square. Jephson, accompanied by Emin and several officers, read Stanley's proclama- 176 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. tion, which was translated into Arabic by the Governor himself, and he requested the soldiers to declare their opinion on the matter. An unusual whispering, an ill- disguised restlessness, agitated the ranks, but no one dared to utter a word. Then at last a soldier, with a provoking and resolute countenance, gun in hand, made his way through the ranks, and, addressing the Governor, declared that they were willing to depart, but that the date should not be fixed till after the harvest. Jephson replied through the Pasha, peremptorily requesting them to let him know their intentions the next morning. Then the soldier, assum- ing an arrogant tone, said that was not the way to treat the Government troops ; that the order must be false, since the Viceroy would have commanded and not begged them to do so ; he would have led them to safety, and not abandoned them to their own will. Emin, indignant at these audacious words, threw him- self upon the soldier, took hold of him by the nape of the neck, and ordered the connnander to disarm and arrest him. The scene occurred with the rapidity of lightning ; the soldiers rose as one man and, breaking the ranks, formed a grouj), aiming their loaded rifles at the Governor, who had drawn his sword in order to reduce the rebellious private to obedience. The timely inter- vention of some of the ofiicers prevented a catastrophe. The troops retired, taking possession of the magazine where the arms were kept, and refused to perform their usual niuht dutv at the Governor s residence. Next morning, Emin went to Khor A\n, and there received information from the major in command at Dufile, about the dangers that were accumulating in the Province. Later on, he received another communi- cation, soliciting his I'eturn to avoid serious disasters. EMIN MADE PRISONER. 177 Oil August 19, Emin, Jephson, and Vita Hassan entered Dufile by the northern gate. The streets of the place were deserted ; not one single person came to meet them, and a gloomy silence prevailed everywhere. They entered the residence, but their leaving it again was prevented by the sudden appearance of a picket of soldiers, who placed themselves at the entrance, as a guard. The Governor and the doctor were prisoners, but Jephson was not included in the odious measure, being considered a guest. There had been no delay in organising an energetic mutiny: the painful incidents at Kirri and Lahore had united all minds in a single purpose, and the irreso- lution shown by the Governor in the protracted and useless halt at Muggi had facilitated the spread of the insurrection. Fatelmula Aga, assisted by Ahmed Dinkani, left his residence at Fabo ; a few days previously he had occupied Dufile station, arrested the major in com- mand, and proclaimed himself the saviour of the Province, which was groingf to ruin throug-h the bad administration and recent intrigues of its ruler. The venture found the minds of the people disposed to approve it ; and a provisional Government was installed without opposition. Emin, not uttering a word of protest nor attempting to defend his outraged dignity, bowed his head re- signedly and accepted imprisonment. Unhappy man ! He would not listen to me, and when Hassan communi- cated my prayer to him (not to leave Wadelai), he answered : "I have no cause to be afraid now ; I hold the knife by the handle and am accompanied by an Englishman"; but the latter in that painful occurrence could only show his friendly feelings by sharing the bitterness of the outrage inflicted on him. VOL. n. M 178 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. At about 3 P.M. on September 9, the steamer KJiedive entered the bay of Tungm-u. An unusual bustle enlivened the soldiers of the garrison, who, having put on their dress uniforms, were drawn up by the landing-place. A short time after, Jephson came to my residence and sorrowfully related the sad events with which he was associated. I should have re- proached him, although in friendly terms, for not having given due consideration to my words as to the doubtful condition of the Province, but a genuine pity overruled all my feelings, and I promised my full support, encouraging him with hopes of a brighter future. The news had greatly afflicted, but not disheartened me. I was a sincere friend of Emin and Vita, and had always been frank in my opinions and actions. I had several times disapproved of the mode of government adopted ; still, I felt bound to devote all my energ\", not only to the improvement of their sad condition, but also to the reinstatement of its rightful owner, even by the very men who had assailed it. The work which I intended to do was facilitated by an order of the provisional Government at Dufile, in which the commander of Tunguru was dii'ected to pay every attention to me and my attendants ; moreover, I was invited to Dufile, if I wished to have an interview with Emin, and to be present at the sittings of the assembly which was to meet there. On their arrival at Tuno-uru the newcomers took possession of the Government storehouses, and minutely examined the doctor's house, with an odious rigom% which I could scarcely restrain ; and their excesses went so far as to cast suspicion upon CajDtain Solyman Aga, who was thus rewarded for having been one of the fii'st to strike the spark that kindled the conflagi'ation. THE REBELLION. The commission, composed of six officers and em- ployes, presided over by Ahmed Dinkani, explained to the assembled soldiers the history of the insurrectional movement for the safety of the Province and for the defence of the principles of justice, which they con- sidered ought to shine with immaculate splendour in the Viceroy's territories. " The Mudir," added the Captain, " has outraged the Province for five long years by acts of despotism, injustice, violence, and extortion, and has favoured people according to his own caprice, to the detriment of others who had better claims, and now, as a culmina- tion of the ignominy, he conspires to sell it to the British, but the hour for reclaiming the rights of the Viceroy has arrived. We have cast off the yoke and proclaimed a new Government which will mean the realisation of order and justice for everybody." And the crowd applauded, but more for the change, which opened the way to individual licence, than on account of sincere conviction. On September 13, 1888, the commission went to Msua, and, after some opposition from the commander, abstracted thirty boxes of Remington cartridges from the magazine, which Stanley had deposited there, causing- them to be taken to Dufile. A vague rumour was current at Dufile that the Stanley Expedition had reached the southern regions of the Albert Lake, in consequence of which Jephson had obtained permis- sion to accompany the commission entrusted with the organisation of the provincial garrison, to Tunguru and Msua. But on reaching Tunguru I persuaded Jephson not to go to Msua, because the news was absolutely without foundation ; but I wished I had not said so, for, as soon as the steamer had started, that clever young man was tormented by the doubt of not 180 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. havinr!: fulfilled his dutv, and could not rest. I suffered for his pangs, not, however, because I thought that the assertion expressed by me might have been reconsidered, for I was sure of what I had said, but from an easily conceivable sympathy ; and when the steamer returned I was extremely happy to hear that the inaccuracy of the news was confirmed. The commission, after having com})leted the inven- tory of the Government storehouses and supplied the public service with a fresh organisation and trusted men, departed for Wadelai. There the employes were concentrated in great numbers, especially the Egyptians, because the place was the seat of the Government, and also because those who had aban- doned their posts to avoid the tyranny of the com- manders of the distant stations sougfht refug-e under the protection of the chief of the Province. We landed at Wadelai on the 18th, and a general council, consisting of Egyptian officers and employes, was appointed for the same evening, with the object of confirming the success of the insurrectional move- ment and of concocting a programme for presentation at the general assembly which was to meet at Dufile. The Egyptians tried to take advantage of it, in order to secure, if possible, a preponderating influence in the resolutions, and, turning the moderate suggestions of the Soudanese to their own profit (being no longer in fear), they endeavoured with all their power to extinguish every sentiment of moderation. At this council a list of charges against the Governor was com- piled. The men, who were easily affected by personal animosity, displayed more than usual excitement, and the worst characters, assuming a deceitful appearance of loyalty, obtained the confidence of the majority and the mandate to defend their violated rights. EMIN IN PKISON. 181 After a two days' voyage, in company with an inebriated, disorderly, and imprudently vociferating crowd, as jubilant as if they were going to a ban- quet, Jephson and I joyfully welcomed the arrival of our steamer at Dufile. My companion went to his lodoino-s in the house where the Pasha was re- siding, and I, to the great astonishment of the former, went to Fatelmula's house, who was the provisional chief of the new Government. I knew later' on that Jephson could not refrain from pointing out where I went to Emin, and that the latter was deeply wounded by my proceeding. However, I was bound to do so. It was an indispensable step, in order to begin work in favour of my friend. I did not act in this manner because I had lost the sense of my own dignity, but because calm reflection proved to me that it was the best means of performing the friendly duty I had undertaken ; and if the course of events had compelled me to give up European customs to such an extent that my life might have been thought incomprehensible, still I can certainly say that my courage never wavered, that my mind was constantly bent on my purpose, and that I did not care to indulge in vain pride, either in reason or out of reason, as others did. I easily obtained permission from Fatelmula to fix my abode at the Governor's house, and to take part in the meetings of the assembly called to decide on the destinies of the Province. I was painfully affected on presenting myself to Emin by his stretching out his hand to me, and saying, " I wish I had listened to your advice." " Let us not speak of the past," said I, " but of the present. Have courage ; we will struggle. I have come here to do anything in my power for your safety. 182 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. Let us hope ; have confidence in me, and you will see that we shall defeat our enemies." I could say no more, foi- my mind was oppressed by anxious thought. I wondered that Emin, the man of superior intelligence, the scientist so much admired in Europe, should be a prisoner at the mercy of an ignorant and frantic rabble. Nor did I salute and encourage good Vita Hassan with less affection, who, as a friend devoted to his chief, had fallen with him. When the military party began agitating for a change in the conduct of the affairs of the Province, they did not intend extending it as far as overthrowing the Government. Its object was only to remove all pernicious influences, and supply the Governor with a council, which was to share his responsibility. But this did not suit the majority of the Eg}'ptian in- triguers, who had concentrated their forces in their meeting at Wadelai ; and, being also strong from the superiority of their education, they promoted an administrative inquiry, as well as the impeachment of the Governor, the doctor, and the major of the 2nd battalion. The general assembly was opened September 24, 1888, with a programme of this kind. The reasons which had sug-orested severe measures acrainst the Governor and the two officers, his associates, were ex- plained, and the proposal of appointing a military com- mission was accepted, in order to report on the best means to secure respect for the law, individual rights, and personal safety. But during the night a meeting was convened at the house of Captain Ali Giabur, an audacious Soudanese, with an evil disposition, hostile to the feelings of moderation shown by Fatelmula, the head of the provisional Government ; and it was resolved to act by surprise, and wrest, by intimidation, a vote EMIN DEPOSED FROM GOVERNORSHIP. 183 from the assembly for a radical change in the constitu- tion of the Government. Next morning three notorious conspirators, Sabri and Taib (civil employes), and Mustapha Ahmed (a military officer), aided by Ali Giabur and his friends, read to the few members of the assembly called in, the impeach- ment and consequent decree of dismissal of Emin Pasha from the Governorship of the Province, as well as that of the doctor, and of the suspension from his rank of' the major, which the meeting was requested to approve and confirm. There were only a few curt and timid remarks. Some feeble opposition was repressed by threats, and in a short time all the officers and clerks present at Dufile being successively called upon, the hateful and arbitrary act was approved and sealed by them. The evil counsel- lors proudly withdrew to their houses, with the con- viction of having saved the country and performed a memorable act of justice, while the nervous, few in number, were perhaps sorry ; but they felt their con- science delivered from the incubus of responsibility weighing upon them, and concealed their cowardice with the excuse of numerical impotence. The decree of dismissal was communicated to the Governor by a letter bearing the signature of the Government agent. Major Hamid, wno was unani- mously raised to the rank of Lieutenant-Colonel by the assembly, and at the same time the Governor was informed of the order for his detention and that of the doctor and major. I advised Emin to affix his sig^nature to the document sent to him, and to any other paper of the sort which might subsequently be sent him. Before my arrival at Dufile he had signed an order which restored some officers and employes, previously dismissed by him, to their posts ; another concerning 184 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. some changes in the admmistration of the Province and finally a third, directing the commanders of Wadelai, Tunguru, and Msua to send their superfluous ammunition to the central magazine at Dufile. There was not sufiicient reason, therefore, for con- sidering himself deposed by the request made to him, since it was not a new one, and I was astonished that Jephson should have felt pained on that occasion, as if an indecorous precedent had been set. The violence resorted to before was still in full sway when the last occurrence happened, and to submit to it was only the repetition of a policy previously practised. The new Governor, old and weak in intellect, did not exert any influence over the public administration, which was despotically directed, according to the will of Captain Ali Giabur. This man had brought seventy soldiers with him, picked from the scum of the barracks ; these acted as masters at Dufile, and were always read}^ to forcibly support the directions of their chief There was soon a display of their violence, for one fine morning Major Hawashi's house was invaded by the soldiers, his goods seized, and himself roughly handled and assaulted. He was hated in the Provmce for his extortions, incessant injustice, and intolerable arrogance ; was considered an evil adviser of the Government, and had become the target of public contempt since he had fallen from power. His cowardly tears excited laughter instead of compassion. He was suspected of possessing a considerable amount of money ; and the men in office spared neither threats nor molestations to discover it. His domestics were imprisoned and flogged, and part of the money was found, but he obstinately persisted in his denial, and preferred suffering every abuse, notwithstanding my advice to yield to his persecutors in order to CASATI'S EFFORTS IN EMIN'S CAUSE. 185 end a disgusting scene, which might have resulted tragically. The probability of Stanley's sudden return aroused the minds of the rebels, and his mission in the name of the Government of Cairo was acknowledged in a public sitting ; where it was resolved that the question of the evacuation of the Province and the return to Egypt, were to be treated directly with him ; but the most guilty amongst the rebels were not entirely satis- fied with the resolution, thus publicly voted, and they entered into a secret understanding with one another, in order to prevent Stanley from being informed of the last change of the Government, and to secure the ammunition sent by the Viceroy. They, moreover, agreed to send the three prisoners to the northern stations, to prevent their escape. Soon after my arrival at Dufile, I took advantage of the invitation sent to me, and did not fail to be present at all the public convocations, in which discussions were going on about the imprisoned men and the further changes which it might be advisable to intro- duce into the methods of administration ; and when- ever I found an opportunity, I always blamed the rebels' insane work and advised them to take better counsels. Their resolutions were always put down in writing and were legalised by the seal of the Govern- ment Commission. It was not difficult to obtain a full knowledo-e of them from the clerks. Althoug^h the rebels knew that I was Emin's friend and cordially interested in his favour, they never forbade me inter- fering with their meetings, because, they said, they were doing nothing wrong, and wished their deeds to be made known to the Khedive, whom they considered their supreme judge. I constantly frequented the houses of the ofiicers and 18G TEN YEAKS IN EQUATORIA. the most influential employes, and was even sometimes accompanied by Jephson. I discoursed with them, without exciting suspicion, about the excessive severity which was being practised and also the projected relegation of the prisoners ; but with those who Avere most prudent and cautious I went a step further, and tried hard to prove that the system with which the country was being ruled was a false one. I even ventured to try and lay the foundation of a counter- revolution, which had become indispensable on account of the violent despotism of those who misruled ; and if my words had not always an immediate effect, at least they softened the hearts of many and made them reflect. Very early on Sejitember 28, 1888, Major Selim Matera secretly sent me the information that a council of the leading men was on the point of meeting at Captain Fatelmula's house, with the object of settling the draft of a decree for the relegation of Emin, Hassan, and Hawashi, wdiich on that day was to be submitted to the approbation of the assembly. I sent one of mv boys to Captain Fatelmula, begging to be admitted to that council, and, as he did not object, I w^ent to his house, and found about a dozen of Emin's most deter- mined enemies there. That stormy and sometimes violent meetinu- lasted from 7 a.m. to about 1 p.m. I explained reasons, pointed out inevitable dangers, appealed to feelings of humanity, and I silenced most of the conspirators, isolated the most violent, and gained a victory by wresting the promise of suspend- ing every act of hostility from them. But, being: alwavs afraid of findinof myself suddenlv confronted by treachery, I went with Major Selim to see the Lieutenant-Colonel, and persuaded him to promise his absolute opposition, and that of his SEAKCH OF EMIN'S HOUSES. 187 friends, to the hateful measure. In case of failure and as a last resource, I sent my faithful boy, Oakil, to some sergeants and soldiers, with whom a secret under- standing had already been arranged, and who were unsuspected by the rebels, in order to request them to be ready to fight in defence of Emin, if they saw him forcibly carried away from Dufile on the road to the north. On my return home I found Emin very restless' ; he was anxious about me. Osman Latif had sent a message requesting him to recommend moderation and prudence to me, because Captain Ali Giabur, on my leaving Fatelmula's house, had exclaimed, " If that man comes again and speaks to me in that manner I'll have him put in chains." " Do not be afraid, Pasha," said I, " I hope that our affairs will take a favourable turn ; and with regard to Ali Giabur, believe me, he will carefully avoid declai- ing himself against me. I do not wish you to listen to the excessive prudence of Osman Latif; he is a cowardly man." The commission entrusted with the examination of the accounts of the public administration (presided over by the chief auditor, who had been suspended by Emin) had finished its work and arrived at the con- clusion that a search of Emin and the doctor's houses was advisable, in order to ascertain whether the missing despatches, cloth, percussion caps, and ammu- nition were concealed there. This heinous projjosal was approved at once ; the news was transmitted to the interested parties, and I obtained recognition as the representative of both. On October 8, half-an-hour after the arrival of the steamer at Wadelai, the Pasha's house was surrounded by soldiers, and the search began. The most private 188 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. places were looked into ; boxes, hampers, and receptacles of every description were overhauled, and the things supposed to be objectionable were set aside ; coarse language was freely uttered, jesting and questioning, but I endeavoured to remain serious and as conciliatory as possible. When the operation was comjileted I received a copy of the report of the search, signed by the delegates. Emin's daughter, little Ferida, came to me several times that day, weeping, both on account of the pro- longed absence of her father and the harshness of the proceedings. I reassured the dear child, who on my leaving made me promise that I would soon return with her parent, and fortunately after a short time I was able to do so. On the 14th the delegates proceeded to search the doctor's house at Tunguru, and here everything was seized, furniture as well as provisions, without any mercy ; their arrogance even extended to flogging the servants. The confiscated goods were deposited in the storehouse, in order to be transferred to Dufile. The reluctance of the commander of Msua station to comply Avith the order of the new Government, had compelled the latter to bring the unwilling officer to obedience, and resort to violence if necessary. With this object, the officers departed from Tunguru, and took the road to Msua, where, to their great astonish- ment, they found that the commander had gone to the mountains for corn. Being resolved to wait for him they thought of turning time to account by pillaging everything that was in the station — goats, salt, skins, oil, and tobacco — but a peremptory order required their immediate return to Dufile, where they arrived on October 30, 1888. The news was worse than sad ; it was terrible. THE MAHDIST'S TAKE REJAF. ]89 Three steamers coming from Khartoum had suddenly appeared before Rejaf ; the soldiers disembarked from them had assailed and taken the station, after a short resistance, during which three officers and three employes had fallen while heroically defending the entrance to the fort. A horrible slaughter of men, women, and children, without a single exception, had occurred : the victors revellin(2f in the blood of their victims. ' On their appearance the Arabs had sent a letter of intimation to Emin by three dervishes, in which Omar Saleh, a Mahdist officer, related the story of his master's deeds, and after promising a general pardon as well as efficient protection, he requested a sur- render, declaring that he had been sent to take all the faithful from the Province, which was a country of infidels, to unite them with their brethren the Mohammedans. The rebels, terrified by this letter, applied to Emin for advice, and he, declining every responsibility, declared his opinion as to what was best to be done, namely, that a victory in the northern stations seemed to him difficult, whilst surrender meant certain death ; therefore, there was no other alternative than to go south and make a strong defence of Tunguru. But the news of the massacre of Rejaf roused the minds of the officers, and the 23rovisional Governor, together with the soldiers of the 1st battalion, and reinforcements taken from the stations, took the road to Muggi, with the intention of concentrating a certain part of the forces at Makraka, and then of attacking the Arabs entrenched at Rejaf Under these new and extremely critical circum- stances, resistance being considered impossible by the majority, it was resolved to send at once the non- combatants and the soldiers' families to the southern 190 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. stations, and simultaneously a written message was sent to the Governor, exhorting him to abandon the idea of avenging the victims of Rejaf, and to order a concentration of troops at Dufile instead. The hope, of course, arose that, considering the dangers which teri'ified the Province, all those who were threatened by the Arab invasion would put aside their foolish rivalry, and direct all their efforts to the same supreme object — that of the common safety. But it was a delusion : Ali Giabur and the officers of the 1st battalion, who were on the point of starting northwards, to fight the Mahdists, maintained the arrest of Emin, the doctor, and the major, entrusting the responsibility of their custody to Captain Fatel- mula, with general acquiescence, especially that of the Egyptians, who were delighted to continue their tyranny and licence. The progress of the Mahdist invasion was quite certain, but the success of our soldiers in opposing them, very doubtful. Dufile was in near and inevitable danger. I resumed the neo^otiations momentarilv sus- pended, hoping to get, if not an unconditional libera- tion, at least a mitigation of Emin's confinement and that of his companions. To begin with, I requested their transfer to Wadelai. After having sounded the officers separately, I availed myself of the co-operation of the less perverse of them, and clearly and openly de- clared that the relegation of the prisoners to a place entirely safe from a sudden attack of the invaders was a homage to the principle of humanity. The major's removal to Wadelai was allowed, but as to the Pasha and doctor. Captain Fatelmula told me that, though he was not averse to the jjroposal, he would require the consent of the Regent, who was with the troops at Kirri. The cheerfulness which formerly EMIN RELEASED. 191 made us happy in the evening, decreased from day to day, and we often looked at one another in silence. Emin and Hassan had lost all hope of liberation ; Jephson often deplored that he was not in a favour- able place for at once hearing of Stanley's arrival ; and, on my part, though hopeful of achieving the so much longed for object, I was afraid that mournful events might suddenly happen amongst us, before I had attained it. ' Turning the discontent which began to prevail amongst the soldiers to advantage, I urged Selim Matera and Captain Solyman, and was fortunate enough to persuade them, that for humanity's sake, and also for preserving their own responsibility, they ought to allow the removal of Emin and the doctor to prevent a grief (which after all was not desired) from saddening to a much greater extent the already pitiful story of their captivity. It was agreed to assemble a council of officers only, con- sidering that the Province was already in a state of war. At dusk, on November 15, 1888, we re- ceived melancholy news from the north : the troops under the Lieutenant- Colonel had been defeated by the Mahdists in the neighbourhood of Rejaf ; the soldiers had fled in all directions ; the commander, a major, three captains, and a clerk had fallen in the fight. The neAvs rapidly spread amongst the soldiers ; the imminence of danger and lack of discipline of the troops, made every one shudder. Next morning Major Selim Matera assumed the supreme command without opposition, and his first act was to keep the promise he had already given. Having called together the officers, he proposed that the Pasha, together with the doctor, should be sent 192 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. to Wadelai, which was approved, the news being com- municated to the civil functionaries pro forma. At noon a commission of officers announced their approval of the measures to Emin Pasha, and the guard at the entrance of the house was removed. On the morning of the next day, that is, November 17, Emin, with military honours and a salvo of artillery, boarded the steamer which was to convey us to Wadelai. ( 193 ) CHAPTER XI. CROCODILE HUNTING. , Bows and kissing of the hand — The crocodile hunter — -The Bari of Beddea — The Dinka's whistling — The clerk Taib — A difficult position must not be attacked openly — ^ Proposed abandonment of Wadelai — Yussuf Fahmi's mother-in-law — At Fagongo — Arrival of the steamer Khedive — Mahdists' discomfiture at Dufile — Injunctions to the Pasha to return to Wadelai — Emin's refusal — Major Selim Matera's letter — Mahdist dollars — Evacuation of Dufile — Captain Solyman — His death — Emin's fears — I do not agree with him — Lieutenant Saleh — Indignant revolutionists — The two factions — Execution of chief Sunga — His corpse on the shore — Kolikio and Katto — King Chua madly enraged — A slaughtered child — A black bullock and a girl twelve years old — The Lur of the mountain — Boki is dead — Funeral ceremonies — Proclamation of the successor — Raids of the Unyoro — Emin an ornithologist — Jephson a hunter — Emin will not leave Tunguru — Stanley's return — His letter to Jephson — Emin left to himself — Jephson and Emin write to the chief of the troops at Wadelai — Jephson's departure — I advise Emin to take time — What an imprudence would cost us. On the arrival of the steamer at Wadelai the people rushed to the landing and showed their satisfaction by loud and prolonged cheers. It was a triumph due to the victor. The authorities, clothed in white, bowing before the Pasha, kissing his hand, and murmuring words of thanks, joined the procession. Saluted by the troops who lined the road, and by discharges of artillery, Emin, more astonished than affected at such expressions of respect and affection, went to his residence, where he was compelled to receive the homage of officers and employes. After the cheering ceased, and while I was going up the hill to the station very slowly, owing to a pain in one of my legs, which I had suffered VOL. II. N 194 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOPJA. from since the last days of my stay in Dufile, I met the good Hassan, the superstitious Turk, the provider of amulets for protection from lions and crocodiles. He began a long panegyric on the Pasha, with which he loudly mixed vulgar insults to the Dufile agitators. " Do you know, Hassan," I said, in order to interrupt his speech, which was not agreeable to me, " that the crocodile which bit off the leg of Mahmoud Tiki-Tiki, the clerk, has been captured and killed ( " " I heard of it, and was very glad." " It was cauo-ht bv the courag^eous Bari of Bedden." " Clever fellows, they did it by some secret which I do not know, nevertheless I would undertake to do the same." He then repeated to me an endless category of impossible sorceries, to which I listened in silence till we reached the top of the hill, where I wished him good-bye. " I am in a hurry," said I. " Good-bye, I am going to the Pasha's. We shall have plenty of time to talk, as I shall stay some time at Wadelai." Mahmoud- Ahmed, nicknamed Tiki-Tiki on account of his short stature, was an Egyptian, who acted as secretary to the commander of the Kirri station. When the revolution betran in the Province he went to Dufile on some official business, where, one morning, whilst he was bathing in the river, a crocodile assailed and dragged him amongst the papyri and grass. The Bari people hunt these voracious amphibia, and a few days after this misfortune they were gratified bv the capture of a very large crocodile, inside of which was found the leg of its victim. The island of Bedden is inhabited by a small tribe of Bari, whose traditional prerogative is to hunt crocodiles. They feed exclusively on the flesh and CROCODILE HUNTING. 195 eggs of the animal, and by ancient custom enjoy exemption from paying tribute, and from serving as soldiers to the native chiefs or to the Government of the Province. They never practise their art without the previous consent of the chief of the locality. The way in which they always succeed in their enterprise is sm^prising. The hunters, ])roperly posted on the banks of the river, gesticulating and throwing UAKI WdMEK. grain on the water, pronounce, with a loud voice, and in monotonous rhvthm, the words appropriate to the ceremony. The crocodile, endowed with very sharp sight, leaves its hiding-place and gradually approaches the shore, at first timidly showing its nose, then its head. Some of the hunters then get cautiously into the river, and, approaching the creature at its sides, rapidly throw a rope with a noose over its head and round its neck. Immediately all precipitate themselves into the 196 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. river, and, without giving their prey time to resist, they drag him out of the water and kill him on the shore. I was told that ten crocodiles had been captured in this manner at Dufile, and two at Wadelai. Whatever the impression that the hunters make upon the reptile may be, it is certain that they attract its attention, and prevent its perceiving the approaching danger. There are also among- the Dinka individuals able to draw snakes to their feet by peculiar whistles. At the head of the disaffected people at Wadelai was an Arab named Taib, of a bad but resolute character, who at that time held the office of secretary to the commander of the station. He had taken a leading part in the rebellion of the Province, and had managed to make others accept his counsels, which were inspired by a spirit of intolerance and fanaticism. He was one of the most danoerous men at that period, and it was necessary to place him in a position in which he would not be able to influence the course of affairs. Therefore, I had asked for and obtained from the commander of the Province in Dufile an order for his dismissal and his arrest, which was put in force at once, but the scoundrel, at a banquet given by his friends and relatives, laid his right hand on the Koran, and solemnly, as a man about to die, uttered a cm"se devoting Emin, Hassan, Jephson, Marco the Greek merchant, and myself to death. So great an honour certainly deserved more than the passing notice we bestowed on it. To be away from Dufile meant freedom for us. Wadelai was the first halt on the road to Kavalli on the lake ; it was no longer im- possible to overtake the Relief Expedition. I used to say, " A situation made difficult by restrained passions must not be attacked openlv, but one must rather study, with prudence, how to turn matters to one's own WADELAI ABANDONED. 197 advantage, and to be always on the look out and know how to seize propitious opportunities, which never fail •to present themselves." All questions, owing to the Oriental character, present themselves in a pompous form, and, divested of this false appearance, spontaneously show their vulnerable side. Difficulties at first perceived fade away, the cowardice of boasters is always defeated by the patient steadfastness of a strong mind. A good intelligence department, moderation towards adversaries, and actions that are able to inspire and maintain the con- fidence of friends, will always rule men and events. No steamer arrived, and no news from Dufile. Thus we reached the 4th of December 1888. During that night Lieutenant Amat arrived from Bora, a Shooli village on the right bank of the Nile, where he had been staying several days on a journey for the requisition of corn. He related how the chief of the tribe had urged him to go to Wadelai because Fabo* had been assailed and taken by the Mahdi's hordes, who, with the assistance of the natives, were even now surrounding Dufile. The funeral bell was tolling. Most probably Dufile had already fallen into the hands of the enemy, and, availing himself of the two steamers, he might ap})ear before Wadelai much sooner than we wished. The station was not sufficiently fortified for defence against a serious attack ; the surrounding laud was not suited for successful combats ; the storehouses were deficient in corn ; water had to be brought from the river ; there was no choice : we had to give up every idea of resist- ance and march to Tunguru, keeping on the heights. * A new station at two clays' journey from Dufile, where the garrison of Fatiko (abandoned on account of the King of Unyoro's hostilities) was concentrated. 198 TEN YEARS IX EQUATORIA. The proposal of retreat was confusedly voted, with the usual unwillint^ and stupid protestations of sacri- fice from those who (as it always happens) would have been the first to set the example of flight. The iron boat was sunk after havino: been made unfit for use. The ammunition of the magazine was distributed among the soldiers, w^hilst the furniture and j^rovisions that could not be carried away were abandoned. Early in the morning of the next day the exodus began, without order or discipline. About nine o'clock a rumour spread through the long column of soldiei's that the Ijoats bearino- the Government flati^ had arrived at Wadelai. The column stopped, soldiers and many officials returned, while we encamped near a torrent, and next morning left for Fagongo, not far from the Nile. Durintr the nio^ht some bovs were sent to search for the old, sick mother-in-law of a clerk named Yussuf Fahmi, who had been forsaken by the ser- vants accompanying her, but onlv her corpse was found ; she had been stabbed with lances by the Lur natives. The steamer Kliedive was sig-nalled bv some armed youths of the vanguard, and shortly after she stopped in an inlet of the river near the village. An officer landed, who told ns that the Mahdists, assisted by the natives of Mugoi and Lahore, had been fighting for three days against Dufile, and had entered the station from whence they had formerly been driven away. On the 28th of November 1888, they had been com- pelled to take a hasty flight, leaving on the gTound many dead and wounded. The officer added that a detachment of soldiers had pursued them, killing all wdio lingered behind. Owing, however, to the almost complete exhaustion of ammunition, the abandonment of Dufile and the nn:stering of the troops at Wadelai was decided upon. MAHDIST ATTACK ON DUFILB. 199 The officer then requested the Pasha to comply with the order, of which he was the bearer, to return to Wadelai, where tlie reoroanisation of the Govern- nient of the Province would be discussed at a general assemblv. A lono- and animated discussion ensued, at the conclusion of which the officer yielded to the firm resolution of Emin to proceed to Tunguru, and consented to make for the lake. The followino- letter from the commanding officer at Dufile to Emin sums up the movements of the Mahdists and their operations against Dufile : — " To His Excellency Mohammed Emin Pasha, Governor-General of the Equatorial Province. " The o-arrisons of Muo'ui and Lahore were concen- trated at this station on the 18th of November, as well as a few soldiers of the 1st battalion ; in all, one hundred and twenty men. On the morning of the 24th, I sent Lieutenant Bachit Aga Mohammed to re- connoitre the locality occujDied by the Mahdists, and at about eleven o'clock a.m. I received a message from him informing me that the enemy were encamped near the river Tin, at three hours and a half journey from Dufile. In the evening when he returned to the station he confirmed the news. " During- the nitrht a letter from Omar Saleh, the commander of the Mahdi's troops, was delivered to me, in which he called on us to surrender and lay down our arms. In the same letter he informed us of the death of Hamed Aga Mohammed, commander of our soldiers, of Captains Abd-el-Waab, Ali Aga, Salem Elfendi Halaf, and of secretary Hassan Eftendi Latif, in the fight near Rejaf He ended his letter thus : — " ' If you do not surrender at once, I will come and make you,' 200 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. " We did not think it advisable to answer this epistle, but committed it to the flames. " The enemy appeared in the neighbourhood of this station on the morning of the 25th inst., and at about four o'clock P.M., notified his arrival by a letter, that was burnt by the soldiers of the outer guard, in which he said that they would compel us to sur- render. " About nine o'clock on the morning- of the 26th, the Mahdists opened fire on the station and continued until three o'clock p.m., when they were driven awav by a company of soldiers, who made a sortie and inflicted on them a loss of twelve killed and several wounded. Thank God, our troops did not sustain any damage. " During the night of the 27th, our enemies attacked the station with a brisk and intense fii'e, to which at about four o'clock a.m. I replied. At daybreak, the assailants made a rush on the part towards the gardens, and succeeded in penetrating into the station, and attacking the steamers, killing Mohammed Ali el Nagiar, cajDtain of the Xyanza, the engineer Ali Ahmed, Mergian Derar the pilot, and Faragialla Moru the stoker ; all these died on the KJiedive. " On account of this serious assault, part of our soldiers were detached from the fight towards the north side, and, under the command of Captain Bachit Aga Bargut, faced the audacious invaders. The fight lasted till eight a.m., when the enemy, discomfited on all sides, slackened his fire and shortly afterwards retreated. We counted 210 dead, but there were certainlv manv more killed, besides the great number of wounded who were carried away by theii" comrades. " Eleven flags fell into our hands, among which was the chief's, a silken one ; we seized also a great number MAHDISTS DEFEATED. 201 of Remingtons and muzzle-loaders, a number of swords and lances, and one prisoner. " The soldiers were rejoiced at their victory, which was celebrated with military honours paid to the Vice- reo-al flag-. " Thursday passed without any event, the enemies limiting their action to demonstrations with a few shots. " At seven o'clock p.m. of the same dav, the soldiers arrived from Fabo station ; an hour later, a Bari negro, previously captured by the Mahdists, but who had succeeded in escaping, came to tell us that, owing to their heavy losses, the enemies were retiring towards Rejaf. " At dawn on Friday morning, a message from Lieutenant Abd-el-Bein Aga Shialai informed us of the flight of the Mahdists during the night, news which was confirmed at nine o'clock by a soldier who had remained at Lahore. " I ordered the soldiers from Fabo to cross the river in the boat, and go to the last camp occupied by the Mahdi's troops, where they found many killed and wounded rebels, who are to be added to the figures already given. Our soldiers returned here (after having killed all the wounded Mahdists) with several cases of ammunition left by the enemies in their camp. " In the night of the 30th, a soldier, the servant of the late Major Rehan Aga Ibrahim, arrived ; on being questioned, he told us that he had come with the ex- pedition from Khartoum, and that all that we had already been told was true. He added that the enemies' force was lessened, and that they could not attempt a new assault. Later on I sent some of the dragomen of the station as far as the torrent Abd-el- Aziz, where they found some bags containing clothes, and the bayonet of a Remington rifle. 202 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. FACSIMILE OP SELI.M MATERA S LETTEK. LETTER FROM DUFILE. FACSIMILE OF SELIM MATEKA's LETTER. 204 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. " Fatelmula, a soldier belonging to the Muggi garrison, who had been made prisoner by the Mahdists at the Rejaf fight, has returned to the station. " He relates that the Mahdi's troops were in great despair, and hurried on their march. Their number did not exceed 150, of which from time to time some fell on the road. In their retreat they had set fire to the Government stations of Ayu, Lahore, and Muggi. " I send this letter, as is my duty, to inform your Excellency of these events, and you will highly honour me by reading it. " Major Selim Matera. "December 2, 1888. " P.S. — The chief clerks and the Cadi are among the dead." In the booty taken from the camp of the assailants and from the dead, our Dufile soldiers found, besides a great quantity of garments, leather bags in the shape of belts filled with silver coins. Amongst many medjidie dollars, a few coins struck at Khartoum by the Mahdi's Government were found. These, which were of the ordinary size of a dollar, had on one side : " Struck at Omdurman, III year;" and on the other side : " Current coin, Mohammed Ahmed, the Mahdi, year 1304."* Fear lends wings, therefore the evacuation of Dufile was speedily effected ; quite an unusual thing with the people of the Province. Famihes were first collected at Wadelai, whence thev were sent bv degrees to Tunofuru and Msua. The removal was accomplished without grave inconvenience, but it was deplorable that the * Durub fi um Omdurman, senet talata ; Macbul Mohammed Ahmed el Mahdi, Senet 1304. DEATH OF CAPTAIN SOLYMAN. 2U5 pranaries of the stations were without wheat, which, under the circumstances, was more than ever needed. On the 16th of December 1888, Captain Solyman was carried to Tunguru, seriously wounded in his right leo- during: the battle at Dufile. Report said that the bullet which wounded him did not come from the enemy's rifles — his soldiers hated him for his overbearing and arbitrary acts, and their justice is often cruel. Emin, with his characteristic professional charity, attended him, but science and care were of no avail ; COIXS OF THE MAIIDI. the unlucky man died on the night of the 29th, with- out the comfort of seeino- reOTet felt for him ; and leaving very few affectionate remembrances. On the evening of his death, Emin, coming from the house, \vhither I had accompanied him for his usual visit, told me that his patient's end was imminent. " Are you going to trouble your mind about that ? " said I. " Yes, for two reasons ; the first being that, as I have attended him, evil-minded people will accuse me of having caused his death ; the second reason is, that we are about to lose a man who mio-ht have been useful to us in our circumstances, especially on Stanley's arrival." 20(5 TEX YEARS IN EQUATORIA. " I understand the first of your reasons. As to the loss we are going to sustain, I am not of your opinion ; on the contrary, I consider his misfortune will be to our advantage. I am inclined to call his a providential death. This man, with his violent character — with neither respect nor consideration for anybody — would be a serious impediment on the day when Stanley's arrival will compel our prompt departure for Kavalli. Do not forget that he was one of the first to rebel." " But he repented, and made himself useful to us at Dufile." "It is true. But he did so only because he was compelled by Selim Matera and myself, when we made him understand the isolation to which his friend Fatelmula would probably be reduced." " Well, why should he now change his mind ? " " For the sole reason that the perils which formerly alanned the factious have disappeared ; the war has ended with a victory, and the Government of the rebels claims the merit of it. Besides, I will say further, that he would never have been induced to return to Egypt, and therefore would not have allowed you to go, lest you should ask the Viceroy to avenge the insults you have suffered." " But in his j^lace we shall have an officer selected from anion ost my worst enemies." " Let us hope not ; and endeavour to pi-event it. Selim Matera will do us this favour also." And in fact Lieutenant Saleh, whom everybody used tocall"the madman, "from his eccentricity, but who was, after all, a good-hearted man and a good soldier, full of respect for the Pasha, was appointed commander of the Tuno-uru station. Among-st the victims of this war was Captain Ahmed Assuti, who died at Wadelai from his wounds, lamented for his military qualities. He EMIN TO BE PUT IN CHAINS. 207 was struck bv a bullet whilst heroically fishtiufi' for the defence of Dufile ; he would not, however, withdraw from the battle-field until a second womul in his head disabled him. The insurrectional committee would not recognise the authority of Major Selim Matera, who was therefore compelled to confine Major Hawashi at Wadelai, instead of at Tunguru, as previously arranged. The dismissal of the Governor was approved 'and confirmed at a meeting, when, to the reasons already brought forward at the general assembly at Dufile in September, there was added the accusation of his opprobrious abandonment of Wadelai station, and the destruction of those magazines. Consequently, a peti- tion was signed by nine officers and officials, in which the chief of the Province was requested to order that Emin Pasha should be put in chains, and brought before the Khedivial tribunals, and that the doctor, Jephson, Marco, and myself should be hanged for having incited the troops to abandon Wadelai, on purpose to cause the ruin of the soldiers who were at Dufile. They claimed also that judgments should not be pronounced according to law, but should be given by religious authority, and that successions and guardian- ships should be ruled in accordance with the sacred principles of the Koran. Major Selim opposed these wild pretensions, and attemjjted to put a sto23 to the want of discipline and licentiousness that daily assumed greater proportions. He suggested that, when Dufile had been abandoned and burnt down, a general assembly at Wadelai should discuss the definitive constitution of the country, and the departure for Egypt of those willing to leave the Province. But the germs of discord troubled all minds. The wisest among them joined the Major, and if they did not desire that Emin should 208 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. retui'ii to power, they wei'e at least firm in the opinion that tlie country ought to be abandoned. This party was formed by the majority of the officers, and by a good number of Egyptian and Coptic clerks. The opposition party was composed of a few Egyptian and Soudanese officers, some clerks and many Donagla, with Captain Fatelmula at their head. Those who were most compromised in the rebellion were firm in their resolution not to leave the Province. The insurrection of the month of August had hastened the ruin of the Province, which had been for several years in a disorderly and dangerous condition. Nothing was to be hoped from a wise and moderate form of government ; everything dejDended on fortune and its favours. On July 16, 1888, the chief Sunga, who had been in prison for a long time, accused of being in secret intelligence with the King of Unyoro to the injury of the Government of the Province, was put to death and his body thrown into the lake. Sunga's relatives and the whole tribe of Liu' were much o^-ieved at beingf deprived of the corpse of the " great rain-maker," to whom they decreed solemn funeral honours. The sacrifices performed, and the occult practices suggested by the superstition of the people on that occasion, were crowned with success ; and it was believed to be a miracle when, thiee days after death, and in conse- quence of a storm that made the lake rough, the waves deposited the corpse on the shore, by the road that the water-carriers in attendance at his former house usually followed. Great and solemn were the honours paid him, and his venerated name increased the hatred of the people for the foreign domination, which weighed upon the •country tyrannically, and caused all hopes to turn to IMMOLATION OF A CHILD. 209 the powerful King of Unyoro. About this time Kolikio and Katto, of the Boki people, were denounced by their own chief, as secret agents of King Chua. He did so to save himself from certain condemnation. They were accused, brought to Wadelai, and there barbarously put to death. The king was very angry at the oflPence thus given to him, and meditated vengeance, incited bv his mother, who venerated Sungfa as a friend of her late husband ; he was urged on also by the Madundi, offended at Chua's betrayal by Boki, their fellow-countryman. His never extinguished hatred for the Egyptian domination increased, and again eno-ag-ed his attention. Once more watchingf the dissensions about to blaze forth in Wadelai, and the imminent division of the military forces starting for the south, he counted his allies, alarmed the timid, encouraged the perplexed, mustered his soldiers, and waited, trusting in his star, which his father's spirit promised him would shine with a new light. One of the ritual customs of the populations on the coast of the Albert Lake, is that every enterprise must be preceded by human sacrifices, both to ensure its success and as a defiance to the adversary they mean to strike. In the night of the 9th of January 1889, a child was immolated and left on the boundary of the chief Boki's dwellincr and on the following- night a black bullock and a girl, twelve years old, were killed (by cutting their throats), and buried on the confines of the territory of Attikende, Sunga's successor, near the Tunguru military station. The news of the funereal augury was at once spread over the country, and reached the mountains. The chiefs Okello, Boki, and Attikende were sadly impressed by them. The moun- taineers of Okuza revolted and surrounded the troops, who were making a raid there for wheat, under the VOL. ir. o 210 TEN YEAKS IN EQUATORIA. orders of Lieutenant Saleh. But Attikende, vigilant for his own safety, immediately brought the news of the impending disaster. A reinforcement of soldiers was despatched, and, rushing on the assailants, liberated the otficer from his dangerous position, and spread dis- courao-ement and fear among the mountaineers. The morning of the 20th found Boki dead, and his friends ascribed his pitiful end to the inexorable hand of the Kino- of Unvoro. Thirstincr for revencre, the relatives of the deceased bound an eastern Magungo, whom they found in the village, with ropes, and after havino- declared liim a sorcerer, on the streng-th of some magical proofs, beat him to death. Boki's death was not made known until the third dav^ as prescribed by their customs. The chiefs of the neigh- bouring territories and his friends assemble at his house to present condolences as to a sick person. In the mean- time the corjDse has been tightly wrapped up in cloth made of bark, and then put into an ox-skin sack. This package is then exposed to the heat and smoke of a continual and even fire, in order to drv the bag and its contents. Should the bad smell be too strong, the bag may be enclosed in a second, third, and fourth skin, but their number must not exceed ten, as pre- scribed by the custom of the country. After a certain number of days, varying in accordance with the political condition of the country, the j^rince's death is solemnly announced. The ceremony of tears and shrieks then begins, which is prolonged to satiety, and finally they proceed to bury the corpse. The son who succeeds the deceased in power, immolates an ox on the grave, with his own hand, and his tears being then dried, he seats himself on a palanquin, and amidst shouts of joy is proclaimed chief of the country and carried to his abode. The festivals of the ascension to EMIN AS AN ORNITHOLOGIST. 211 power have a longer or shorter duration, according to the importance of the principality and the quantity of beer and provisions devoted to consumption. Such are the customary funeral ceremonies of princes of secondary importance in the countries bordering on the Albert Lake, differing from the honours paid to a king, whose much grander and more solemn ceremonies are accompanied bv the infamous and atrocious custom of burying the living in the grave and immolating human victims. Not long after Boki's death the country was devas- tated by the hordes of King Chua, who set fire to the chiefs residence, and carried many women and children into slavery. A great many soldiers hastened to the spot from Wadelai to check the boldness of the invaders, but, owing to their delay in coming, the assailants had already retreated to the opposite side of the Nile when the troops arrived. The bands from Unyoro also announced their presence by frequent raids in the southern regions of the lake. Babedongo invaded the Katonzi country, and, having seized a large booty of oxen and women, took up his position at Kieya. The King of Unyoro prepared for a decisive battle, and, like a clever guerilla, kept up agitation, and spread alarm at intervals in the several regions near the lake, until the day on which the departure of some of the garrison troops should have weakened the Government, and made the country an easy prey to his ambition ; thus fulfilling the plans of conquest dreamed of for so many years. Emin was again devoting- himself to his favourite pursuit of ornithological collections, which, although much admired and praised in Europe, contributed to give rise to discovn-aging opinions about his care for the public administration. But he was then free from 212 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOEIA. any responsibility, and could give his whole time to study — a pleasant relief from the troubles of his heart and mind. Jephson had become a sportsman, and was so delighted with the prey that he gathered every day, that he forgot the safety of his legs, which were covered with numerous wounds, the stings of insects. Occasionally the proposal to leave Tunguru for Msua was discussed and energetically sustained by Jephson, especially after Shukri, the commanding officer at Msua, had made the generous offer (perhaps beyond his power) to send the porters and escort of soldiers required for our removal. But Emin repeatedly and emphatically declared his intention not to move till Stanley arrived. Perhaps the reason that influenced him was a just one ; both from the uncertainty of the return of the Expedition, and from his natural re- pugnance to present himself at Msua deprived, though wrongly, of all power and authority. Emin despatched Mogo to chief Mpigwa with letters for Stanley, and shortly afterwards he (Mogo) sent the news of Stanley's presence in the country. On the 26th of January 1889, letters from the commander of the Relief Expedition for Emin and Jephson reached Tunguru. Stanley's terms were harsh. He allowed us twenty days to join him, with the warning that at the end of that time he would start for the south. He gave a most painful description of the condition in which he had found the rear column ; and the errors of others as well as his own, he, in dictatorial style, threw back upon our poor persons. I quote what follows from Stanley's letter to Jephson, which I copy from his work, Emm Pasha: Uie liebellion at the Equator, p. 389, by A. J. Mounteney- Jephson. STANLEY'S LETTER. 213 We separated from the Pasha on the 23rd May last, with the iinderstanding that in about two months you, with or without the Pasha, would start for Fort Bodo with sufficient porters to take the goods at the fort and convey them to the Nyanza. ****** We somewhat doubted if his affairs would permit the Pasha's absence, but we were assured you would not remain inactive. It was also understood that the Pasha would erect a small station on Nyamsassie Island as a j^rovision depot, in order that our Expedi- tion might find means of subsistence on arrival at the lake. Eight months have elapsed and not one single promise has been, performed. The rear column, which on our departure from Yambuya num- bered 271 all told, was a mere wreck. Major Barttelot was dead, had been shot with a gun by one of Tippoo Tib's Manyiiema, on the morning of the 2 1st of July. Mr. Jameson had departed on the 23rd July for Stanley Falls, and a letter dated August 12th, five days before my airival at Banalya, states that he was about descending the Congo river for Banijala ; but the couriers who brought his letter to us stoutlj- asserted his last intentions were to go down to Banana Point. Mr. Herbert Ward had been sent to Bangala, and finally to St. Paulo de Loanda. He had returned and reached Bangala with letters, instructions from the committee, bvit was de- tained there by order of Major Barttelot. Mr. John Bo.se Troup had been invalided home in June 1888. So no one was left with the wreck of the rear column except William Bonny, who is now with me in this camp. One hundred Soudanese, Zanzibaris, and Somalies had been buried at Yambuya ; thii-ty-three men were left at Yambuya, help- less and dying, and foui-teen of these died later on ; twenty-six deserted. So that when I saw Bonny and his people, the rear column, Zanzibaris, Somalies, and Soudanese, numbered 102, all told, out of 271, and only one officer out of five ! Besides this deplorable record, the condition of the stores was just as bad. Out of G60 loads — G51b. each — there remained only 230 loads, of G51b. weight. All my personal clothing, except hats, boots, one flannel jacket, a cap, and tliree pairs of drawers, had been sent down to Bangala because rumour had stated I was dead, and the advance paity gone to the dogs ; a x-emnaut of thirty, however, had managed to escape to Ujiji ! ! ! ****** 214 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. The difficulties I met at Banalya are repeated to-day near the Albert Lake, and nothing can save us now from being overwhelmed by them but a calm and clear decision. If I had hesitated at Banalya very likely I should still be there waiting for Jameson and Ward, with my own men dying by dozens from sheer inanition. ****** Are the Pasha, Casati, and yourself to share the same fate ? If you are still victims of indecision, then a long good-night to you all j but while I retain my senses, I must save my Expedition. You may be saved also if you are wise. ****** The first instalment of relief was handed to Em in Pasha on or about May 1st, 1888. The second final instalment of relief is at this camp with us, ready for deUvery at any place the Pasha desig- nates, or to any person charged by the Pasha to receive it. If the Pasha fails to receive it, or to decide what shall be done with it, I must then decide briefly what I must do. Our second object in coming here was to receive such at our camp as were disposed to leave Africa ; oui- Expedition has no further business in these regions, and will at once retire. Try and understand what all this means. Try and see the utter and final abandonment of all fuither relief, and the bitter end and fate of those obstinate and misguided people who decline assistance when tendered to them. From May 1, 1888, to January 1880, are nine months — so long a time to consider a simple proposition of leaving Africa or staying here ! Theiefore in the official and formal letters accompanying this explanatory note to you, I designate Kavalli's village as the rendez- vous where I am willing to i-eceive those desii'ous of leaving Africa, subject, of coiu'se, to any new light thrown upon the complication by a personal interview, or a second letter from you. And now I address myself to you personally. If you consider yourself still a member of the Expedition, subject to my orders, then, upon receipt of this letter you will at once leave for KavaUi's, with such of my men, Binza, and the three Soudanese, as are wiUing to obey you, and bring me the final decision of Emin Pasha and Signer Casati respecting then- personal intentions. ****** I understand that the Pasha has been deposed, and is a prisoner. Who, then, is to communicate with me respecting what has to be done t I have no authority to receive commimications from officei's' mutineers. It was Emin Pasha and his people I was STANLEY'S LETTER. 215 supposed to relieve. If Emin Pasha were dead, then to his lawful successor iu authority. Emin Pasha being alive, I can receive no communications from any other person unless he be designated by the Pasha. Therefore, the Pasha, if he be unable to come in person to me at Kavalli's with a sufficient escort of faithful men, or be aole to appoint some person authorised to receive this relief, it ■will remain for me to destroy the ammunition so laboriously brought here, and return home. You must understand that my people are only porters. They iiave performed their contract with me with a fidelity unexampled ; and having brought the boat and goods here, theii' duty is ended. You have been pleased to destroy the Foat, and have injured us irreparably by doing so. I piesume the two cases of Winchester ammunition left with the Pasha are lost also. I ought to mention also that the people at the Ituri ferry camp are almost all sick, and will be unable to move for at least a month. And also I have brought with me about lOO Manyema, with -12 of whom I have contracted to pay a tusk of ivory to each for 42 loads they have brought here for Emin Pasha. Therefore, to satisfy them I require 42 tusks of ivory to pay them. Please consider how this can be done to their satisfaction. Finally, if the Pasha's people are desii'ous of leaving this part of Africa, and settle in some country not far remote from here, or any- where bordei'ing the iSTyanza (Victoiia), or along the route to Zanzibar, I am perfectly ready to assist, besides escorting those who wish to go home to Cairo safely. But I must have clear and definite assertions, followed by promptitude, according to such orders as I .shall give for effecting this purpose ; or a clear and definite refusal, .as we cannot stay here all our lives awaiting people who seem to be not very clear as to what they wish. I describe in Jephsou's own words the impression made upon us by the above letters, and by another .adch-essed to Emin, an exclusively official one : We had been looking for Stanley's arrival, and were hoping if the "Worst came to the worst he would, with his augmented strength, be able to extricate Emin by force, if necessary ; but instead of being iiti'engthened he had a tale to tell of deaths and disaster only. The chief of the Expedition, anxious about the miserable condition to which the rear column had been 21G TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. reduced, both Avith regard to men and provisions, and forgetful of the primary reason, proclaimed urhi et 07-hi, of Emin's liberation, declared that it was im- possible for him to achieve it ; sent an ultimatum of limited time, not very courteously worded, and certaiu that Emin would go to him, should a ray of hope shine, amidst such misfortunes, speculated on Emin's sad con- diti(m. He recalled J eph son, and abandoned Emin to himself, either because he would not or could not risk anything for his safety. Je])hson wrote a letter to the head of the pro- visional Government, rather to inform him that he had been commissioned to bring fortv-two elephant tusks than to ainiounce Stanley's arrival. Emin in an e})istle to Major Selim Matera sent the news of Stanley's arrival, and, whilst requesting that steamers might be sent to convey him to Were, advised him to send a deputation of officers to Stanley, and positively de- clared that, for the moment and till the arrival of the officers from Wadelai, lie should not leave Tunguru. On January 28, 1889, after having overcome some difficulties made by the steamer's crew, Jephson left for Msua. Next morning he was greatly surprised to find that the Kliedive had left for Tunguru, and he was, therefore, obliged to cross the lake to Were, in a native boat, procured by the commander of the station. He had left us with the firm conviction that we should never meet ao^ain. To the last moment he had insisted on Emin accompanving him ; but this time I was gratified to see my advice accepted that no incon- siderate step should be taken," but that the course of events should be watched ; that firmness and confidence should rule ever}^ action, and that the word he had given, that he would not move until he had conferred with the officers who were to arrive from Wadelai must PROMISE MADE TO JEPHSON. 217 be kept. " It will be a matter of a few days, but I promise you to take the Pasha to Stanley," I said to Jephsoii, at his departure. It is certain that, had we accepted the strange proposal of leaving with Jephson, the Pasha's departure would have been prevented at any cost, and that Jephson would have never dared to disobey Stanley's imperious order. As to myself, it is true that nobody would have opposed my departure, as I w^as only a visitor in the Province, but Emin's position having been made more difficult I should have con- sidered myself bound not to take advantage of my independence. Then through a culpable imprudence and hasty resolution, the way of our ulterior redemp- tion would have been closed for ever. In order to avoid being driven to ruin, it was important for us to choose a wise and prudent mode of action, that would lead to the accomplishment of our wishes. The advice of the gi'eat poet was a light and guide to us : " ' Grapple that,' Said he, ' but first make proofs if it be such As will sustain thee. ' " — Dante, Inferno, Canto 24. ( ^18 ) i CHAPTER XII. STANLEY'S MANIFESTO. News of tlie arrival of Stanley— Departure from Wadelai— Nomination of a commission to be sent to the head of the Expedition— Refusal of Emin Pasha — New perils — The means of avoiding them — Proposal accepted by Emin — The opinion of the officers of the Province asked — Departure for Msua — New intrigues — Emin concedes a pardon and amnesty — Selim Bey — The voyage to Were — Osman Latif — His equivocal conduct — He throws himself into the river — " You should have left this carrion to be drowned ! " — Always the same — Counsels given to Emin — Emin shares my oiJinion— Emin goes to Stanley's camp— William Bonny— Danger of being assailed by the troops of the King of Unyoro— Bonny sent " not to fight, but to bring over the luggage " — Return of Emin to Were — Colonel Fatelmula and his menaces — Impression of the officers after their visit to Stanley — Letter from Stanley to the officers at Wadelai — Advice given to Emin — Difficulties of the situation — Flight of soldiers and servants — Departure of Vita Hassan — The road from Were to Buguera — Arrival at the encampmment of the Relief Expedition. The news of the ariival of Stanle}^ did not excite much animation in the discussions at the camp of Wadelai. Officers and employes, soldiers and servants, were all prostrated by the violent shock that the recent invasion had given to the strength of the Government. They had conquered the enemy, but the victory had absorbed all the resources of defence of which the country could still dispose. It had also increased the boldness of the natives, always ready to profit by the recent weakness of the conquerors, and to enter into open warfare against them. The desire to return to Egypt, and the want of ammunition, however, united the two opposing factions in one sole interest. Those who had decided to leave, no less than those to I DIFFICULTIES OF THE REBELS. 219 Avhom the idea of leaving the country was not pleasing, hailed with joy the return of the Relief Expedition. There arose, however, a difficulty : that of entering into communication with Stanley. But this also dis- appeared when the Pasha spontaneously offered to become, in a certain manner, their intermediary in the relations that must take place. Fully assured of finding no obstacles to the execution of their programme, the most influential men did^not delay in agreeing to the nomination of a commission, composed of six officers, who were ordered to assemble at Tunguru, and proceed to Stanley's camp under the veg'is. of Emin Pasha. But when Major Selim Matera waited on Emin to be- seech him to assist the representatives of the Province and to facilitate their intercourse with Stanley, the Pasha resolutely refused to accede to their request. Ap- pointed to the Government of the Province by the Viceroy, he could not wrong his own dignity, and injure the authority of the legitimate Government, by thus recognising the work of rebellion, and still less could he lend himself to the office of an irresponsible inter- preter, as they foolishly asked him to become. In face of such an unexpected refusal, the officers were at a loss to whom to apply. They knew that if they presented themselves in Stanley's camp alone they would not be admitted to confer with the leader of the Expedition. Disputes were renewed with vigour, void of sense and result. The greater number agreed to give up the project ; some seemed disposed instead to excite public opinion against the Pasha for . interfering with their incontestable rights to the help sent by the Viceroy. The submission of the first, and the possible success of the intrigues of the latter and more daring, gave cause to fear that new complications might arrive 220 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. which it was most desirable to avoid, so that the much longed for hope of escape might not be lost. If Emin, in his humiliated condition, caused bv the rebellion of his officials, secretly nourished any desire to avenge his injuries, he was unable to carry it out from want of energy and courage ; and he also retained for his followers, from habit as well as tenderness of sentiment, a good deal of affection. To profit by this state of the Pasha's mind, and make him cut the Gordian knot, did not appear to me difficult, nor did I judge it to be improper, could we arrange matters so as not to offend either his susceptibility or his dignity. I explained my idea frankly to Emin. I pointed out to him the new perils to which we might be exposed, and the vain hope of any probable aid from Stanley, and concluded that the only expedient presenting any hope of success was that he should resume the reins of government. Although not confident of success, but impelled by a sense of ambition to reinstate himself in his former office, he seemed disposed to direct prudent efforts to the purpose. It was not difficult to find adherents to the proposal, especially amongst those who intended to abandon Equatoria and return to Egypt. But when the project was presented to the assembly for discussion, the usual reservations and doubts arose again, and it was decided that the officers and employes residing at Wadelai should be consulted about it. Delay was advised and accepted ; but whilst awaiting their reply, considering the limited period conceded by the chief of the Expedition, it was decided to start for Msua. This was a step in the right direction, and we hailed the decision with joy. In that furthermost station of Equatoria were assembled the greater part of the families of the EMIN RESUMES HIS POWER. 221 officers and civil employes, especially Egyptian, who had ijone there on abandoning Dufile. These were desirous of profiting by the invitation of the Viceroy to go to Egypt, and lamented the delay that was interposed to their departure, rendered necessary as it was by the scarcity of food, which was quite inadequate to the wants of the great number of persons in that little station. In agreement with Major Selim Matera, a man of moderate mind and serious disposition, it was proposed, in a numerous and influential assembly, that the project postponed at Tunguru should be slightly modified in presence of the pressing necessity of no longer delaying to send a deputation to Stanley's camp, and that those who had decided to return to Egypt (realising the duty of being united under the orders of their Governor) should humble themselves to ask his pardon for the deplorable actions of which the Province had been for many months the theatre, and pray him to resume his former functions as the only legitimate representative of his Highness the Viceroy. There were no discussions, and the act was approved and sio-ned bv all who were at the station. It was therefore settled that a copy of the resolution should be sent to Tunguru and Wadelai, requesting at the same time the adhesion of all those who intended to profit by the invitation sent by the Khedive. On the 9th of February 1889, Emin resumed the direction of afiairs. He raised Selim Matera to the rank of lieutenant- colonel, appointing him Vice-Governor, and decreed other promotions as the recompense of the acts of valour of the officers who had fouofht at Dufile. Having then given the principal orders for evacuating the stations, Emin, some officers, and I embarked in the steamer direct for Were. 222 TEN YEAES IN EQUATORIA. Osman Latif, recently promoted to the rank of OSMAN LATIF. major, was commanded to hasten the arrival of the OSMAN LATIFS CHARACTER. 223 people at Msua, and subsequently to despatch them to the camp of concentration. This man had come into the Province about the end of 1882 as Vice- Governor. He had great experience in intrigues, and for about t\\'enty years had held various offices under the administration of the Soudan — -putting into his actions an apparent good nature and exaggerated respect, as well as a hypocritical appearance of religion. In consequence of a dispute occurring at Dufile between himself and that commander, Emin had dismissed him from his office, and he had only lately been reinstated. During the imprisonment of Emin, Osman Latif's conduct — faithful to his principles — had been equi- vocal ; while suggesting odious measures, without, having the courage to declare them openly in the assembh', he stealthily sent news and advice to the Pasha, thus seeking to win his friendship, and that of Jephson, in order to get from both, in due time, favourable declarations of his honesty and loyalty to the Government at Cairo. But there was a person who was aware of his double game, and reproached him bitterly for it, denouncing his deceitful conduct. The rogue, at once perceiving the gravity of the situation, and pretending to be driven mad by the infamous calumny, was seized with a wild impulse to throw himself into the river. Some humane persons took him out, still trembling with convulsions, and brought him into the presence of the chief of the rebels, who said, in a tone of irony and contempt, " You should have left this carrion to be drowned. What was the use of saving him ? " I was afterwards assured that Osman would not have been drowned, even had he remained all day in the river, for at the place he had selected, and where he threw himself on his knees, the water only reached his chin. Later on he said to 224 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. Fatelmula that he had the pubhc good in view when feigning friendship for the Pasha, and he said just the same to Emin, when speaking of his suspected sympathy with the rebels ; also in the duty entrusted to him at Msua by the Governor Osman Latif did all he could to retard the regular work of concentration. During the journey, which lasted two days, being obliged to pass the night in a village of Lur, Emin and I had several long conversations on the line of conduct that it would be best to adopt. We were agreed as to the mode of judging of the situation, and our conclusions coincided. Nor could it have been otherwise, because they arose from facts which, being misrepresented, as they were later on, were ascribed either to a former programme, unknown to me, or to sudden fears, unsup- ported by cool reasoning. The departure from the Province, and consequently our certain liberation, was a work for which we were not indebted to the Relief Expedition. The attainment of its aim had embittered the minds of the dis- contented in Equatoria ; that is to say, of those who were firm in their decision not to move. It was, therefore, the duty of the Governor, and a debt of grati- tude to Lieutenant-Colonel Selim Matera, and towards all who had, by the act of Msua, contributed to a good result, to take care of those men and theh companions who intended to return to Egypt. Emin also, by reason of his office, had to try with all his strength to satisfy the wishes of the Govern- ment at Cairo, and to watch over its interests. To ensure the full execution of this task, it was necessary for the Governor to preserve his own inde- pendence until the caravan of his subordinates was organised for the journey. The situation of Were, on the shore of the lake — admu-ably adapted both BONNY'S ARRIVAL AT WERE. 225 for the calling of the steamers and for keeping up constant communication with the camp of the Relief Expedition at Kavalli— was pointed out as best fitted for the arrangements. Besides these essential reasons, there was another which merited serious consideration. It related to the character that public opinion attri- buted to Stanley, which would have made it difficult for him and Emin to agree. It was to be supposed that the chief of the Relief Expedition, according to the promises made to the Viceroy, would have post- poned his departure until all were ready ; but in the event of his deciding to hasten the return, the number of guns that should have been available, and the ammunition which was to have been handed over by Stanley, would have been sufficient to protect the column in its long journey, and guarantee the necessary supply of food. The mustering ordered by the Governor, assisted bv his officers and employes, would have silenced the inevitable mistrust and friction arising from their direct dependence on European officers, speaking another language and accustomed to another style of discipline. Our column once formed, the Governor could easily settle everything about the march to the coast with the chief of the Expedition. These were our ideas of the situation, and, fully possessed by them, Emin and his officers started for Buguera on February 16, 1889, to visit Stanley. Four days later another plan would probably have been proposed and substituted for that chosen by Emin. On February 20, Mr. William Bonny arrived at the camp of Were, with thirty Zanzibaris and sixty- four native porters, to assist the Pasha's people in their re- moval to the camp at Buguera. Katonzi, chief of VOL. II. p 226 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. Magala, who in the month of May of the previous year had concluded a friendly alliance with the Government, cemented by the exchange of blood brotherhood between himself and Captain Shukri, came in the night to tell me that Babedongo and Ireta, noted chiefs of the King of Unyoro, were near us at Kieya on a marauding expedition. They had already ravaged and devastated a large tract of country, and might shortlv storm our camp. The news might be exaggerated, but, as King Chua hated us, the tale was credible. A surprise would have been injurious, for we had but twenty guns and a limited supply of ammunition in the camp. I then went to Mr. Bonny, who had announced his intention of leaving the following morning, and, having told him of the information just received, I begged him to remam with us until I could send a letter to Emin at Stanley's camp, as the dela}' would allow the two steamers to arrive from Msua, whose position would be critical if we were found retreating to the hills, before superior numbers. With calm, icy serenity, ISlr. Bonny declined to grant my request ; talked of his responsibility, and said he could not take the liberty of altering the orders of his chief, who had sent him, " not to fight, but to bring over the luggage." I said no more, and he left early next morning. Two days later. Captain Nelson said I should have been wise had I compelled him to remain. On February 22, 1889, Emin returned and told me of the compact made between Stanley and himself, he having said nothing of his own plans, as he had intended. On the 26th, he again joined Stanley at Buguera, carrying with him the news that the party of rebels in Wadelai led by Captain Fatelmula, indignant at the STANLEY'S MANIFESTO. 227 weakness of Selim Bey and his comrades, had deposed him from the command of the Province in favour of Captain Fatehnula, whom they had further promoted to the rank of colonel. A court-martial had been held, which not only confirmed the deposition of the Pasha, but pronounced sentence of death against him and me. Our officers were much pleased with their reception by Stanley. They had gone to his camp expecting to be severely reprimanded because of the late disturb- ances in the Province, but he had been perfectly cordial and courteous. He had confided to their care a written manifesto, addressed to all officers and employes in Wadelai. It ran as follows : — Salaams ! The officers, Selim Bey and others, having requested Mr. Stanley to await the arrival of their friends from Wadelai, Mr. Stanley causes his answer to be written down in order to prevent misunderstanding. Mr. Stanley and his officers having been specially sent by the Khedive as guides to show the road to such people as desired to leave the Equatorial Province for Cairo, cannot do other- wise than consent to give such reasonable time as may be required for the assembling of all people willing to depart with him. It must, however, be positively understood that all men proposing to depart with Mr. Stanley must provide their own means of carriage for themselves, their families, and baggage. No exception can be made, except for the Pasha, Captain Casati, and the Greek merchant named Marco, the two last being strangers, and not in the Egyptian service. Therefore, all officers and men proposing to depart from this country with Mr. Stanley will be careful to pi-ovide such animals and porters as they may need for the transport of their children and goods. They will also be careful not to burden themselves with super- fluous articles : arms, clothing, ammunition, cooking pots, and provisions being the only necessaries needed. The reserve ammunition which has been brought from Egypt for the ser-vice of the Pasha and his people, is of course at the disposition of the Pasha only, according to the orders of his Highness the Khedive. 228 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. Mr. Stanley wishes it to be distinctly understood that he is responsible only for finding the right road, and for provisioning all the people according to the nature of the country. Mr. Stanley, however, holds himself in honour bound to do all in his power for the comfoit, safety, and welfare of Emin Pasha and his people, and to assist his friends in all things to the best of his abilitj'. On the arrival of this answer before the officers at Wadelai, the officers responsible for the direction of the people will do well to hold a general council, and consider this answer before moving. Such people as believe in their hearts that they have the courage and means to depart from the Equatorial Province will prepare to proceed to this camp as directed by he Pasha. Such people as are doubtful of their power and abihty to move will act as the superiors of the party will decide. Mr. Stanley, in the meanwhile will form an advance camp to make ready for the reception of such people as are going out. Henry M, Stanley, Commanding the Relief Expedition. At Kavalli's, February 19th, 1889. Selim Bey told me the drift of this letter. I was astonished at the paragraph concerning the time allowed, well worded, but not so clear and intelligible as the people to whom it was addressed and circum- stances required it to be. The Pasha was the person directly responsible for executing the Viceroy's orders, and the way in which his authority and interference were spoken of irritated me the more, because through me, and afterwards personally when he left for Buguera, the Pasha advised the Lieut. -Colonel not to look too closelv into the division of the ammunition in Wadelai between those who wished to leave and those who remained with Fatelmula. The same day Selim Bey left for Wadelai, determined to stand no more of Fatelmula's interference. I exhorted him to urge forward the soldiers and their families. He wished me good-bye, and I told him I hoped to see him again ; but I did so merely out of politeness. DEPARTURE FROM WERE. 229 In the Province, Selim was beset with difficulties, and the camp at Were was constantly disturbed by repeated requests to move forward to Buguera ; and this took so many men that on the arrival of a steamer the getting in of fuel became a work of time and toil. The Pasha's stay in Stanley's camp was regarded as a virtual abandonment of his subjects. Food was becoming scarce, and, worst of all, there was neither order nor organisation anywhere, so that no one knew whether the promises made would ever be carried out. The monotony of our sojourn was broken by the dis- appearance one night of a few of our soldiers and servants. Some fled because they wished to join their absent families, and some because of the scarcity of provisions. Five of them were killed in trying to pass through Melindwa (by night) on the road which skirts the lake. The Negro has a singular nature. He usually has no thought for the morrow, is inured to privations, and impassive in danger. Woe if he thinks ! The moment he does so he sees visions, panic seizes upon him, trouble annihilates him, he seeks safety in flight, and rushes on to his own destruction. I remained at Were until I could send my friend Vita Hassan to the camp at Buguera, as his position amongst the Egyptian malcontents was insecure after what had happened at Dufile, where he was looked upon as a loyal adherent of Emin's. Hassan left on March 1, and I followed next day. The road from our camp at Were, following a westerly direction, for three hours' march leads over a grassy plain, broken only by a few clumps of mimosa bushes, and is not crossed by any important stream, but is watered by the innumerable windings of the Niebetembe, flowing from the mountains at the end of the plain. 230 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. The banks of this small river once passed, the ground gradually rises, and two hours' climbing conducts us to a magnificently wide terrace, which commands a view over the lake to the wooded shores of* Nyamsanzi and Nsabe on the western side, whilst away to the east is the mighty mountain wall enclosing Muenghe and the district of Baganghese. The narrow road, with its j)erpetual windings, looks sharp and steep, seen from l^ehind the hills, but it is not really so. We spent the night as well as we could on this wide terrace, only suffering from the heavy dews and cold. Rising early, we pressed forward next morning, our nerves tingling with the enjoyment of the pure bracing air. Then the road again became steep, and for an hour we had fatiguing climbing, after which a series of o-entle undulations brouoht us to Buofuera. About ten o'clock on the 3rd of March 1889, I entered my tent in the camp of the Relief Expedition, and became henceforward but a unit in the crowd. ( 231 ) CHAPTER XIII. DEPAETURE OF THE EXPEDITION. Waterparting between the Aruwimi and the Albert Lake — The plateau of Buguera — Flora and fauna— The chimpanzee — Catching with nets — Drunk in the trap — A chimpanzee drummer — The Walegga, Wahuma, and Vavra — The Mount Virika — The camp of Buguera — Service of the camp — Transports from Were — Refusal of the Zanzibaris — Stanley Bulamatari — His character — Robbers rewarded — The departure is fixed — Even Captain Fatelmula wishes to go to Egpyt — Conversation with Stanley" — The officers complain — The Koran peeps out — Samadia — How to cure headache — A letter of recommendation to a Wahuma — The torture of the tahatt — ■ Biiimllah il Bahman — Final evacuation of the camp of Were — Stanley's fears — Emin's hesitation — The 5th of April — " I leave you to God " — • The assembly — " As sure as my name is Stanley " — Rigorous watch — Those who leave — Omar the Shillook — Well-distributed bastinado — Abandonment and burning of the camp of Buguera — The river Tarara — -Mpinga and Mazamboni — Flight of sixty-nine soldiers and servants — Council of inquiry — Mild sentence — Necessity of procuring porters — Stanley seriously ill — Fever and rheumatism — A furious hurricane — Chests of ammunition buried — Flight of servants — Arrest of Rehan — Summary judgment — The body thrown among grass. The plateau of Buguera, which has an altitude of about 3691 feet (1125 metres), is formed by a slightly undu lating grassy surface, broken here and there by currents flowing from the waterparting of the Albert Lake and the river Aruwimi. This tortuous line I'uns without a break, and almost unnoticed, except on the western slope, where it is intersected by small rivulets, forming the river Deki, which flows to the Ituri. On the eastern side, on the contrary, after a short space of flat ground, the slope suddenly changes its character, and the drainage, falling into the Niabe- tembe, is carried to the lake. 232 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. The plants found here are numerous and varied, unit- ing those of the highest altitudes, such as the Trifolium intermedium, the Cardamine hirsuta, the Helicrysum angustifolium,he\ong'mg to the European region, and the Protea acaulis and the Spermania Africana, of the southern countries of Africa. To complete the rich family, a beautiful specimen of the fern- tree, an egathea, may be admired upon an arid little hill, reminding one of dear and distant countries. The fauna also includes a very diversified family of animals, especially of birds ; to a kind of pigeon hitherto only found in countries of great elevation, one may add the anthus and the cuckoo, which come from Europe, and a species of nettarinia, which gene- rally prefers the plains. The woods which bound the plateau, at a few hours' distance, are inhabited by a colony of chimpanzees, which rush about and plunder the rich fields of Indian millet and bananas. We amused ourselves for several days by sending some young and expert Soudanese hunters to try to kill or capture some, but the cautious chimpanzee, making a slow and prudent retreat, always deluded our hopes, disappearing in the dense parts of the forest. To surprise a family of those monkeys and take one aHve, the Western Sandehs, on a favourable opportunity, spread the nets generally used for capturing gazelles and antelopes. At dusk they disturb the silent abode of the chimpanzees with loud cries and the barking of dogs ; terrified by the unexpected assault, the animals run away in a disorderly and precipitate manner, and fall into the nets, which entang-le their limbs. The strugfo^le with the furious prisoners is more dangerous than ever, their muscular strength and agility giving them an almost certain chance of escape. The adults, wounded AN APE PARADISE. THE CHIMPANZEE AND THE DRUM. 233 with knives, and the little ones, powerless after the long struggle, form the trophies of the hunters. It is said that the Walegga are in the habit, on dark nights, of placing large jars of foaming beer at the foot of the trees where a family of chimpanzees live. At dawn the gluttonous animals pounce upon the desired beverage and, after many quarrels, the stronger and more fortunate plunge their heads into the jars and empty them. Staggering and intoxicated, they fall into a deep sleep, and their appa- rently lifeless bodies lie scattered about upon the scene of their orgies. The wary hunters, who up to this point have watched the wild gaiety of their prey, come out of their hiding-places, and securely tie the limbs of the poor drunkards, who soon after awaken to the loss of their liberty. Captain Shukri, commander of the station at Msua, told me that, during an excursion into the mountains of the Lendu (a name given to the Walegga by the eastern populations), he was obliged to pitch his camp in a dense wood. Upon rising the next morning, he saw to his great surprise that a drum had been taken from near where the guns were stacked. The general opinion was that some daring native had stolen it, but after proceed- ing a short distance, they heard the sound of the beating of a drum from the top of a tree. An old chimpanzee was discovered with a drum-stick in his hand, imitating the beating of the instrument, which, unobserved, he had witnessed the day before. Gunshots, menacing shouts, throwing of darts, did not avail to recover it, for the monkey, leaping, with herculean strength, from branch to branch and fi'om plant to plant, and still tightly holding his precious spoil, was lost to the sight of the soldiers, and probably joined his own companions. The original population of the country, in remote 234 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. times, was the Walegga, who, being driven out by the Wahuma coming from Unyoro, took refuge in the mountains. The Wahuma are considered in the country as of noble caste, and are the true masters of the soil, having the Vavra as their subjects and as agricultural labourers. The lattei- come fi'om countries situated in the West ; their front teeth are filed and painted, their ears are pierced, and the women have a piece of round wood stuck through the upper lip. They live entirely upon agricultui-al produce, and are forbidden to possess cattle, which are the exclusive propertv of the nobles. The conquering tribe of the Wahuma is not governed by a single chief, but divided under several, according to the groups forming the great family. Thus Kavalli commands the Waviasi, Mpigwa the Wavivaghi, Sagara the Wavisu, and Katonzi the Wavitu ; the latter bemg the most aristocratic part of the tribe. The chief of the Wavitu, by right of cus- tom, has the prerogative of the investiture of new chiefs in the sing-le branches. The climate of Buguera is healthy, and the air salubrious. The wmd blows periodically from the east, rising and subsiding with the sun. The mean temperature does not descend below 16° Centigrade. Frequent and abundant rains refresh the soil. Looking towards the horizon, which extends along a vast line of heio-hts stretchino- from south to south- east, attention is attracted by a great mass of greyish- white cinder}^ clouds, which, suspended in the air, enfold the highest crests of the chain. The aqueous vapour, dissipated and rarefied at intervals, just when it seems inclined to withdraw the veil and satisfy the desire of the eye, suddenly becomes denser, as if jealous of its guardianship. THE RUWENZORI. 235 ] It was the afternoon of the ;^Oth of April 1889 ; the air was cahn, and the sky clear ; all eyes were turned to the south ; clouds which obscured the great moun- tains, moving with increased rapidity, broke up and rose ; the sun darted its vivid rays, and through a clear and limpid atmosphere there appeared the crest of the Virika or Ruwenzori, the great mountain of the Vakongio. The top and sides, clothed in white, showed that it was a snow-clad mountain. Its height is gigantic, and, although the distance is considerable, its Alpine form was distinctly visible. It is the Varikampanga, of which the people of Unyoro say that no one who has attempted the mysteries of its ascent has ever returned. Cold, and horrible monsters are supposed to rule over it. As if offended by the intensity of our scrutiny, the protecting clouds resumed their usual office, leavintr us with a keener desire than ever to solve the mystery. One entered the camp of mobilisation by the southern gate, and at the end of an ample square the Egyptian flag floated on the top of a high pole. A large hut, with a sloping roof, and opening on one side, formed the office of the commander of the Expedition. On each side of it were the tents of the British officers, and those which were used for the maofazines. The two long sides which enclosed the square were formed by a series of huts of uniform size, symmetrically arranged, and were the dwellinos used bv the officers and employes. A second group of huts, placed at a con- venient distance from the former, was occupied by the soldiers and minor officials. The camp was enclosed by the huts of the Zanzibari and the Manyuema of the Expedition. The guards of the camp were the Zanzibaris, under the command of a British officer. The daily distribution 236 TEN YEARS IX EQUATORIA. of food was limited to those composing the Expedition ; the distribution of animal food to the people of the Pasha was effected weekly. The rules for the govern- ment of the camp, the authority over everybody and everything, emanated from Stanley and his officers. The Pasha had but an apparent authority. Stanley touched him in his most tender point by saying, with some slight irony, that he was the man who must make the scientific observations during the journey. As Stanley had promised, the transport of the effects of the camp of Were to Buguera was performed (from February 14) by Zanzibaris, assisted by the natives. Of course, the fatiguing journey from the lake to the plateau could not be agreeable to the porters. Their discontent was increased by continual invectives thrown at them in a tone of contempt as Government men- — invectives which ended by taking away that reciprocal respect which it was a paramount duty to preserve, for the sake of order and discipline. It is true that, by every report, the officers and employes, especially the Egyptians, were not distinguished by their morality. But this should not have surprised the members of the Expedition, who had still fresh in their memory the outrages of which Egypt had been the theatre during the rebellion of Arabi Pasha. The revolt which had broken out in Equatoria against Emin ought still less to have constituted a motive for the harsh treatment of those who had complied with the wishes of the Viceroy, and to whom Stanley had pledged himself as leader on their return. The morning of the 10th of March 1889, the troops who should have c^one to the lake on their usual service did so with murmurs, and only the intervention of Stanlev could make them p'O. But when a little way from the encampment the most daring obstinately CHARACTERISTICS OF STANLEY. 237 refused to proceed, and Captain Nelson thought it better to send back the whole company. Repression was prompt and immediate. The principal instigators were disarmed, flogged, and put under arrest. And when justice had been done, and Stanley ordered their departure for the lake, no one made any further opposition. Not a word was spoken. The punishment was inflicted in a bold, frank, confident manner ; and to one of the guilty men, who in a frightened, faint voice, answered the call, he said in a grave voice, while the blows rained down " My name is Stanley Bulamatari (the stone-breaker), and not only Ibrahim, like yours." Stanley is a man remarkable for strength of character, resolution, promptness of thought, and iron will. Jealous of his own authority, he does not tolerate exterior influences, nor ask advice. Difiiculties do not deter him, disasters do not dismay him. With an extraordinary readiness of mind he improvises means, and draws himself out of a difficulty ; absolute and severe in the execution of his duty, he is not always prudent, or free from hasty and erroneous judgments. Irresolution and hesitation irritate him, disturbing his accustomed gravity ; his countenance being usually serious. Reserved, laconic, and not very sociable, he does not awaken sympathy ; but on closer acquaintance he is found very agreeable, from the frankness of his manner, his brilliant conversation, and his gentlemanly courtesy. During the niaht of the 23rd of March 1889, an alarm was raised. Some natives, allured by a few fine heifers (stolen in raids from a tribe which had had the audacity to attack the body of the Expedition in its march towards the lake), had stealthily penetrated into the camp, but not cautiously enough to elude the 238 TEN YEARS IX EQUATORIA. vigilance of tlie sentries. Two of the band were arrested, and next morning brought into the presence of Stanley. " You liave come for meat, at a great risk," he said. " I wall make you a present of two goats, but remember, and do not forget to tell vour friends, that if a similar attempt is rejjeated, the culprits shall, without fail, be hung on a tree." The delay in the ariival of iieAvs from Wadelai oc- casioned various comments. Stanley, who only waited to start until the health of some of his Zanzibaris was restored, had fixed the date of his departure, as he had originally decided in his own mind when he caused the letters to be Avritten to the officials of Wadelai, con- ceding to them a reasonahle time. Stanley had already proposed to Emin that the departure should take place on the 25th of March, and the latter had agreed to it. He afterwards put off the time until the 10th of April, and Emin accepted the new arrangement. Mr. Jephson told me of the decision arrived at, on the 14th of March, and to him I frankly observed that it would be impossible to collect the people, so as to depart in twenty-five days. " The assembling them for departure requires a long time. We are in the Soudan, my dear Jephson ; fixing such an early date is as much as to say that many of them are to be abandoned." I spoke of it afterwards to Emin, who, how^ever, constantly said that he wished to await the arrival of his men, and was ready to separate himself from the Expedition, should it set out before they were all assembled. But on the 25th a letter arrived bearing the signa- ture of thirty-six officers, and announcing in concise terms (without the display of either presumption or CONVERSATION WITH STANLEY. 239 servility) their unanimous wish to return to Egypt. The names of Fatelmula and other rebels, that figured in the letter, caused alarm ; the people regarded it as a snare, and in a council held by Stanley, in the presence of the Pasha, it was voted necessary to hasten the departure ; to abandon the people of Wadelai, to evacuate Were, and to send ammunition to Niangabo, a territory subject to the chief Mazamboni. Captain Nelson alone maintained that the Pasha could not agree to a sudden departm-e, without failing in his duty, and opposed it ; but Stanley willed it, and the 10th of April was accepted by Emin as the date, with a formal pledge. I was only informed of this resolution on the following day, and then by the chief of the Expedition himself ; I heard of Captain Nelson's objections later on. In the afternoon, Stanley came to my abode, and briefly represented to me the vicissitudes which were leading the British Expedition to ruin, and its present critical position. He enumerated the negotiations which had taken place between him and the Governor, deploring the carelessness and slowness with which Emin's people proceeded, who every day declared their intention of starting, and yet delayed their arrival. He concluded by expressing his doubts as to the intentions of the Wadelai officers, since Emin himself was rather suspicious. Was it his duty, he asked me at last, to protect the body of the Expedition under his orders from every possible danger ? Should not Emin, in the face of such risk, think of his own safety ? Was Emin expected to sacrifice himself for people who had vilified and imprisoned him ? " Frankness for frankness," I replied, " he had the full right to expect the fulfilment of agreements, freely and reciprocally contracted, and that it was his duty 240 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. to watch over the welfare of the Expedition entrusted to him." As to the duties and obhgations of the Governor, I differed from him, and considered Emin bound by the act of submission which he had accepted on the 8th of February, at Msua. I concluded by saying it was a question of moral opinion. The Pasha might, perhaps, look at it in a different light. Stanley then sent a message to Emin, begging him to come to us, and when he arrived repeated to him the last questions asked me. The Pasha decided that he was not obliged to keep the pledge accepted at Msua, and that he had only accepted it as a means of opening a way to get out of the Province. " You see," said Stanley to me, " that the Pasha speaks as I expected. Now, what do you say to it ? " " I have nothing to say," was my reply. " I do not change my opinion. No one can prevent your acting according to your own Avill." The joy of those who were in the camp at the news of the decision voted by their companions of Wadelai was of short duration. The idea of then- early depar- ture filled them with grief, which they did not attempt to conceal. Not being in the habit of frequenting public meetings, and having led a retired life for some time, far from the excitement of discussions and the danger of opposing other people's opinions, one day the wish struck me to know the impression made on the officers by the last decision, more to satisfy my curiosity than from any interest I could possibly take in them. Fortune favoured me before I tempted her, and the morning after the conversation with Stanley, four of the officers came to pay me a visit. " So we are to leave Kavalli without waitino- for our companions from Wadelai ? " said one of them. COMPLAINTS OF THE OFFICERS. 241 " If they choose to come, they can overtake us in a few days," I replied to Lieutenant Ali Shambruk. "It is impossible to do so in such a short time. The steamers cannot carry so many people," said he. " They can come by the route which skirts the lake. There is a large body of them, and they are well armed. Have they cause to fear the Melindwa and the Lur ?" " That is true, I admit ; but when the soldiers learn the decision adopted by Stanley and the Pasha they will be agitated by various opinions, and the departure, thereby deferred, will be suspended and then abandoned. Unprovided as our brethren are with ammunition, they will one day become an easy prey to our enemies of Khartoum, who have sworn our destruction, and more carnage will be added to the disasters already suffered. The scene will be horrible, like the end of the world. Who could describe that disastrous, frig'htful dav ? ' Thev shall be dispersed like locusts.'" " There you are, Ali, with your Koran, and uttering lamentations you do not feel, and maxims you do not practise. Speak on, and I will answer you." " He who knows the secrets of heaven and earth gave us the Koran, and he is indulgent and merciful. But how is it that the Pasha, who has assured us of so many things, and made us great promises, does not care for us any longer ? " " How can you be sure he has forgotten you ? " I asked. " We can infer it from his behaviour. He said he would take us all to Egypt, and then he starts with the smallest number. From the time we came to this camp he has deprived us of his favour. He has forgotten the beautiful saying of the Book : ' The VOL. n. Q 242 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOR lA. believer who has practised benevolence will find a refuge in the garden of delights.' " " Why do you allow yourself to become so de- pressed since Stanley, as well as the Pasha, has the goodness to assist you, and do everything to attain your end ? One thing is undeniable : should the soldiers from Wadelai not hasten their arrival, we shall be obliged to proceed on account of the famine which threatens us here." " You are right. A few wicked people have ruined the Province. At Msua we confessed our error, and implored that it should be forgiven and forgotten. And will he not pardon us ? God pardons in His indulgence and mercy, and exacts from each one according to his abilities." " Not only has he pardoned you, but he has your fate at heart. Certainly he cannot see with satisfaction the little cai-e your brethren have displayed in answer- ing the call made to them. Besides, he was obliged to crive a definitive answer," I said. " Lieutenant Ali has told you a good deal, but something still remains to be said on the subject," added Osman, the Vice-Governor. " Will you allow me to tell you what is in my mind ? I do not pretend to give advice to the Pasha, nor to influence his decisions in the slisfhtest manner, but the rank with which I am invested compels me to warn him of an event which is about to happen." " Speak, if you will, Osman, but I must tell you I do not mean to meddle in your troubles," I said. "You are the friend of the Pasha, and after you have heard me I believe you will be inclined to think that I am right, and will communicate the matter to him, for his benefit as well as our own. You know I OS MAN QUOTES THE KORAN. 243 have not ventured to speak to him for some time as I used in former years," said Osman. " Speak, speak ; but for goodness' sake do not give me another lesson from the Koran. I know that you carniot engage in a serious discussion without pointing your argument with verses from the prophet. But spare me as much as })ossible." " You are joking with me, as \isual. But it does not matter ; I am not offended." " Bravo ! Bravo ! but fear not ; time, as it passes, leads us to reflection' I am listening to you." " Do not interrupt me, or destroy the thread of my ideas. ' By the ivav horses which run swiftly to the battle with a panting noise ; and by those which strike file, bv dashing their hoofs against the stones ; and by those which make a sudden incursion 07i tJie eneryiy earlv in the morning, and therein raise dust, and therein pass through the midst of the adverse troops ; verily man is imgrateful unto his Lord.'* Fatelmula and the other Wadelai mean treason — for they are people of ungrateful heart and perverse mind. They wish to come and fight us to take possession of the ammunition. It is necessary to prevent this guilty design, to warn the Pasha, and advise an early flight." " Dear Vice-Governor, this is not my business, but yours. I would never charge myself with such advice ; and allow me to tell you that the accusation you insinuate is grave, and must be corroborated by clear evidence. You know, as we all do, that there is so much discord among the people in Wadelai, that any treason, even scarcely meditated, would come to ovir knowledge. And if, as there is no doubt, some bear malice and brood revenge, leave their punishment * Koran, chap. c. (Sale's translation }. 244 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. to God. The wickedness of such beings will not hurt us in the least." " Just so ; and God Himself has promised it in His law with the words : ' Yerily, if the hy})ocrites, and those in whose hearts is an infirmit}', and they who raise disturbances in Medina, do not desist, we will surely stir thee up against them to chastise tliem. Henceforth they shall not he mffered to dwell near thee therein, except for a little time, and being accursed. Wherever they are found they shall be taken, and killed with a general slaughter, according to the sentence of God concernincj- those who have been before ; and thou shalt not find anv chanofe in the sentence of God.' " * " Well, Osman, but remember that in the same chapter — it is suggested to me by Captain Ibrahim Hellem — it is said : ' And they who shall injure the true believers of either sex, without their deserving it, shall surely bear the guilt of calumny, and a manifest injustice.' " * The man stood silent. He had spoken in fear of the arrival of the officers from Wadelai. The tranquillity which he now enjoyed would be disturbed, if they came, by reason of the long series of his former deceits. Osman Latif, now in Cairo, has forgotten his habit of delivering ascetic lectiu"es ; at that time he used to recite, with sacrilegious imposture, a thousand and seventeen times a day the chapter Samadia, that is, " The declaration of God's unity," which runs thus : " God is one God ; the eternal God : he begetteth not, neither is he begotten : and there is not any one like unto Him." t To the faithful, who daily practise this herculean * Koran, chap, xxxiii. t Koran, chap. cxii. THE FATE OF IBRAHIM HELLEM. 245 labour of pi'ayei", it is given to behold in tlieir dreams the seat assigned to them in Paradise. Major Hawashi and Captain Ibrahim Hellem were alarmed at the thoupfht that the decision taken mio^ht do them harm ; since many of those with us would return to Wadelai. I encouraged them, entreated them to tranquillise their minds, and to have confidence in their Governor. Captain Ibrahim Hellem enjoyed a great reputation for curing headaches. His cure was performed by the hand. It consisted in binding the head with a ribbon, and tightening it with a drumstick and an iron key, until the measure of the perimeter reached its sup- posed natural dimension. " The space measured from the point of the nose to the nape of the neck in its normal condition," said he, " should correspond exactly to that round the head. But each time that the pain attacks this region, there is an enlargement, and cure is obtained by reducing it to its normal size ; the remedy would not be successful if the knot which secured the ribbon was not tied with the left hand." He was most desirous of seeing- again his native country, which he had left as an officer ; but his wishes unfortunately were not fulfilled. Footsore and dragging himself along in pain, he followed the caravan by long marches. But, one day, his strength failing him, he was left behind at Kitega, in the territory of Nkole, with the sole comfort of a letter to that chief, in the following terms : — " I, Governor- General of the Equatorial Province, Mohammed Emin Pasha, leave here Captain Ibrahim Elfendi Hellem, also Captain Abdul-Wahd Efiendi, and Ibrahim Efiendi Tahir, a clerk, on account of sickness " I order you to give them the necessary nutriment, 246 TEN YEARS IX EQUATORIA. and should a caravan pass which touches at the Enghsh mission of Mr. Mackay, send them by it." The chief into whose care those unfortunate men were given, and wlio was to execute the written orders, was a Wahuma, in whose fields we had gathered provisions without paying for them. The strange remedy I have just mentioned reminds me of the torture called by the Arabs fahoft, Avhich was abolished in Egypt by the Viceroy Ismail Pasha. Two Immboo canes applied to the temples are tied tightly at their extremities, both behind and before, with a cord. The aoonv of the torture is caused bv beating the anterior point of the apparatus with a small stick. The slowness of the shock and the tremb- ling wliicli it occasions produces such acute pain that it causes the victim to fall senseless. This infamous mode of torture was applied to three Dervishes who had carried Omar Saleh's letter (the commander of the Mahdi s forces) ; but those intrepid fanatics, rather than reveal what had been confided to them, with eyes bursting out of their sockets and trembling limbs, continued faintly murmuring. BismiUah il KalniiaiK >l l^ffJiihiit, il Itamd B