/ V « TRAVEL IN EGYPT , W< AND N U B I VOL. II. = LONDON: Printed for L. Davis and C. Reymers againft Gray's- Inn-Gate, Holborn . M.DCC.LVII. ■ - J [ 3 J TRAVELS I N EGYPT and NUBIA. Journal of the author’s voyage, from Cairo to Girge, Capital of the Upper Egypt. I N the former volume of this work, which con tains my rout from Alexandria to Cairo, I have given a circumftantial relation of all that I have feen and thought worthy the attention of the reac r. I was obliged to continue in this capital above three months •, for I arrived there the 7th of July 1 737 ; and I did not depart till the 1 8th of November the fame year, when 1 undertook the voyage of the Upper Egypt. - *- Xfl So confiderable a delay was occafzoned by reafoi : of a various nature : befides the ordinary obftacles, and the prejudice, which generally bewitches the peo- ple of the country, and gives them a fufpicion of'aj, the Francs, who fhew a defire of going farther : W prejudice, which has hindered fo many perfons, tfciw? have been fent by divers courts of Europe, from mi-* king difcoveries in the Upper Egypt •, I had rhe vex- ; v ation to meet with two other impediments, whfcfrv B 2 con- '' - « ■ 4 TRAVELS IN EGYPT concerned me in particular, and necelTarily retarded my departure. One of thefe impediments arofe from the rebelli- on, which, at that time, continued to put the whole country in diforder. Though they had not ceafed to cut off heads every day, and to butcher, without •mercy, all the rebels that the government was able to feize, yet there ftill remained a confiderable num- ber, who had joined themielves to the Arabs : even the ringleader of them, whofe name was Salem Cachef, and who was reported to be dead, in order to quiet the populace, had efcaped the molt diligent learch that could be made, and had married the daughter of an Arab fchech. Under the fhelter of this protection, he plundered and murdered all that came from Cairo, infomuch that if we went with the caravans, the paffage was abfolutely infecure •, and if we took the method of going upon the Nile, the barks did not run a lefs hazard. The fecond impediment to my journey was occafi- ca by a licknefs, which I did not take much notice ■/ t the beginning. I imputed it folely to the air lie country, which I imagined to dilagree with r alconftitution : I flattered myfelf, however, in a • rtle time to reconcile myfelf to it. But the affair became atllength very ferious : in a few days the diforder fhewed itfelf to be a true peripneumony. It confined pne to my bed for more than two months, . I gave? me great difquietude : more particularly, Ixcaufe Iwas lodged in an inn, that was notorious troublefome riots. I am going to mention one, t. had like to have coft us dear ; but which had a ■ s re hi ppy fuccefs than could be expeCted. When a ftranger arrives in Egypt, they prefcribe him two fundamental rules, the obfervance of . iiich is neceffary to all the Francs, in order to be '";:.’cure in the country. The firft enjoins, to avoid all iccaiions, where the Turks may brave the leaft pre- tence AND NUBIA. $ tence for coming to a quarrel ; and rather to bear flight infults, than to venture an engagement with them : the fecond requires, that in cafe you cahnot avoid having a conteft with a Turk, you ought to take great care how you defend yourfelf ; for if, un- luckily, you happen to kill one of them, you will certainly be deftroyed. It would be knpoflible to efcape the fury of thofe who will endeavour to re- venge his death, and who will be always allured of the aid of the greateft number, and of the fupport of juftice, not to lay of injuftice itfelf. I had always applied myfelf fo carefully to the obfervance of the firft of thele rules, that I had never been in a fituation to have need of the other. Yet a certain fatality deftined all thofe, who lodged in the inn where I was, to be one day under a neceflity of making ufe of both thefe rules : and even they would not have been able to have preferved the whole houfe from deftruftion, if it had not been for the courage of a lady, who defended herlelf in fuch a manner as was indeed fomething ftrange and comi- cal, but which happily fucceeded fo well, that flic alone preferved all that were in the houfe. 9 This adventure happened on occafon of a pub lie proceflion, or feftival of circumcifion •, which, as was given out, would be more folerryl than the greateft part of the others, that we fee here fo often walking the ftreets. This was enough, to excite the curiofity of fome attendants of a lord, With whom f had made an acquaintance in Italy, and with whom I was going to make the tour of the Upper Egyp-. They had taken it into their heads to have a. view of this ceremony from a terras, fituated direiftly opp ^ fite to fome appartments of the palace of Omer bey ■ This palace was not commonly inhabited -^but r y.' defire of feeing this proceflion had drawn thither thaiT day one of the wives of Omer, who being offended^ according to the ufage of the country, to fee herfelf* B 3 expofed 6 TRAVELS IN EGYPT expofed to the view of thefe ftrangers, made her eunuchs at firft throw fome {tones at them. Our people perceived very well the infult •, but not know- ing by whole direction it was, and the noife in the ftreet ftunning them, they were not alarmed at this firft affault. They had very foon a much warmer attack to fuftain. The wife of Omer, fcandalized at their obftinacy, caufed fome piftols to be fired at them, with the defign of making them quit the place •, and as this fecond warning was not better underftood than the firft, {he took their ignorance for an affront fo heinous, that, as foon as the pro- ceffion was ended, {he lent to the inn, where we were, eight janiffaries to feize thofe indifcreet fpec- tators. I knew nothing of the whole adventure. My diforder kept nje in bed, and I was extremely weak. I faw, however, four of thofe janiftaries go acrofs my chamber, to enter into another, which led to the ter- ras I juft now mentioned •, but they made fo little noife, and moreover 1 was fo accuftomed to the like s -;affing to and fro, that I did not give much attenti- on to it. I faw, in like manner, without troubling ’ myfelf much about it, two of thofe janiffaries re- turn ; who paffed back through my chamber, after they had forced our domefticks to continue under an arreft, guarded by the two other janiffaries. The mafter of thefe fervants was no more ap- prized of the affair than I was. But he had very , -pen tidings of it. The four other janiffaries, who j*tjad hitherto continued quiet at the entrance of the iWufe, feeing that the firft attempt had lucceeded fo r ' ppily, ® nd finding no one upon the defence, • fnagined that they might undertake any thing. 'They entered into the appartment of the mafter ; ‘ and w r hilft two of them threw themfelves upon him, tfhe.two others feized his fpoufe, and put a cloth over het AND NUBIA.. 7 her head, with a defigrr of conveying her into a kind of cellar, which was nigh. These violences did not pleafe either hufband, or wife. Both with emulation armed themfelves with courage. She throws down one of her affaulters with a kick ; at the fame time ftabs the other with the point of her lciffars in the breaft, and by this means forces both to quit her. The hufband, at the fame inftant, difengages himfelf from the hands of the two men, that had thrown themfelves upon him, leaps to a carabine well loaded, takes it in one hand, with the other leizes a fabre, and threatens to kill any one, that offers to attack him. This was enough to intimidate tnele wretches ; infomuch that they went out of the chamber in the utmoft hurry : but the affair was not yet over. The two comrades, that had paffed back through my chamber, in their return, and were gone to .call af- fiftance, appeared immediately with fifty men well armed. The cambat then begins a-new. The field of battle was precifely oppofite to my chamber. Here it was the fuccours joined the firft combatants. The carabine, above all, put them into a confternation. They cried out, that if it was not laid down, there fhould be no quarter given to any one j one amongft them, feeing that the fummons was not obeyed, fired a piftol, the ball of which paffed over they head of him who held the carabine. At the difcharge of the piftol, I got out of my bed,- to fee what was the matter; and I opened mv ; door precifely at the inftant that our heroine was i- the greateft perplexity, how to withdraw her hufbar from the danger that threatened him. She did nor hefitate long upon the method fhe had to take. Shf 1 pulhes him dextroufly into the chamber, bolts im- mediately the door, and returns back to make head ’ againft the enemy. B 4 This • 8 TRAVELS IN EGYPT This dexterity, as much as her refolution, was % decifive ftroke. It is certain, that the hufband, who was going to fire the carabine, could not have for- born to hazard fo fatal a . blow •, efpecially if he had feen, afterwards, with what fury they put the poni^ ard to the throat of his dear fpoufe. Whilft he was thus in a kind of fecurity, though againft his inclina- tion, and in the greateft difquietude in the world, fhe alone faced fo great a number of enemies, not indeed with more moderation, but however with lefs danger. One of the enemies retired, bewailing a part of his beard that fhe had torn off ; another having received a kick from her foot, took to his heels •, fhe made a third feel the point of her fcifiars ; fhe gave a fourth a tafte of a box on the ear, well applied ; a fifth was regaled with a falute of the fame kind. There was fomething for every one ; and you would have faid, in feeing the dexterity with which fhe attacked and defended herfelf, that it was not the firft time that fhe had been at fuch an entertainment. At length, fortified with the help of a janififary, who, from an enemy that he was before, declared himfelf for her, in the fpace of lefs than half an hour, fhe cleared the inn of more than fifty men armed, who were come to feize her, together with her huf- band. The baijiaw informed of this bravery, and of the Innocence <5f our domefticks, deigned, from that day, to fecure us from other like inlults, by a protec- tion diftinguifhed in a very extraordinary manner ; which we fhould never have obtained, if any been killed in the fray. At thesend of more than three months abode at airo againft my inclination, I had the fatisfadlion to *f.)ceive, that all the obftacles, which had hindered ny departure for the Upper Egypt, were no longer . .mfurmountable. Thanks to God ! I was cured of *y peripneumony j the fever had left me; and . though AND NUBIA. 9 though ftill weak, I flattered myfelf that I fhould re- cover, from day to day, the ftrength that was want- ing to me, to be able to fay that I was in perfet^ health. On the other hand, the rebellion in the country, that had made fo much noife before, died away by degrees, at leaft fo far as was necefiary for the fecurity of a bark, which we had determined to make ufe of, for performing the voyage upon the Nile. As to what there was to be feared from the general prejudice againft Europeans, the flrongefl- recommendations by the heads of the government, as well as of the foldiery, addrefled to divers governors, of the provinces, and to feveral Arab fchechs, .feem- ed to promife us all forts of fecurity and facility for our voyage. In thefe circumflances, we hired a bark, which was to convey us quite to Essuaen. The price was fixed at thirty fendouclis, with a new fuit of cloaths, on condition that it fhould not be permitted to take on board any but thole of our company, which was encreafed by a Copti prieft, and two miflionary fa- thers from Rome, The acquifition of one of thefe was fo much the more advantageous to us, as he un- derllood very well the Arabic •, thus he might be ufe - ful to us, in cafe the Maronite and the Jew, that we had engaged for our common interpreters, fhould happen to fail us. We had, moreover, required a fecond condition of the reys, or captain of the bark. He had engaged himfelf not to take on board any merchandize, for , fear that the traffick which he would make fhould retard our navigation •, but he had been before-hand with us, and had already embarked, under-hand, what he had a mind for * infomuch that it was ne-^ ceflary afterwards to give up this fecond article. All the preparatives of our voyage being fettled* we embarked, Sunday the 17 th of November, in the afternoon. In a little time we had [left Old Cairo, whet® JO TRAVELS IN EGYPT where our bark had been fattened, oppofite to the Mokkias, and near the Grand Bazard. We did not advance, however, that day, more than a canon fhot diftance, becaufe the reys was not yet come on board. Our voyage did not begin, therefore, properly fpeak- ing, till the next day and I am now going to de- fcribe the fuccefs of it. I sahll acquit myfelf of this talk, by giving, day by day, a faithful relation of what I hve faeen, and of the accidents which have happened to me in the voyage, from Cairo quite to Derri, (fee Plate I.) where we were obliged to take the refolution of re- turning back, in fpite of the extreme defire that I had of going further. I fhall ufe the fame method when I am to defcribe my return to Cairo. This relation fhall be drawn up faithfully from the journal that I wrote, during my voyage. I fhall change nothing in it, except that, becaufe I would not refume it again, I fhall add, from time to time, in the plages where I had already touched fome fub- je£t, certain particularities which I did not remark till my return. I fhall take care, in like manner, to dear up the fubjeift, here and there, by fome obferva- tions, in proportion as the objects Ihall appear to me more or lefs interefting. As to this lafl article, which I call lefs interefiing , I fhould touch it only fo far as will be neceffary for the inftruftion of thofe, who hereafter fhall have the curiofity to undertake the fame voyage. But with regard to the former, I fhall give : a much greater attention to it, efpecially when the fubje£t fhall be the magnificent remains of antiquity, which have offered themfelves to my fight. In a word, 'I will do my utmoft not to forget any thing that can give fatisfaftion to the reader, as I -hfcve neglefted nothing, fo far as circumftances per- tfiitted me, that things capable of giving illuflration Should not efcape my refearches. Monday* II AND NUBIA. ‘Monday, i8' h of November, ^37. Our reys did not come on board till the afternoon. We fet fail immediately i and we faw, on the eaft fide of the river, the town of Deriminna : The Copti have here a convent ; we caft anchor about a quarter of a league above it, below the great mofque, named Atter-Ennabi : There has been already mention made of this place, in the preceding volume, as well as of Deir-Etiin , another town, with a Copti convent, and a mofque, which is three quarters of a league higher. We had on the right Giefiret-Edahab : I That is to fay, the Golden IJland. You fee a village there with the fame name, together with a mofque. ™t is fituated at a league and a quarter above the illand of Rodda, at a quarter of a league’s diftance from the weftern fhore of the Nile, oppofite to Sakkietmekki , a town furrounded by fome villages, which bear the fame name. This town has a mofque, and in its neigh- bourhood a califch. It’s name is Arabic, and figni- fies a mill with ropes of pitchers, a fort of engine pro- per for raifing water. In continuing to go up the river, we advanced ori the left, towards Baffatiin , a town about a league above Deir-Etiin. The Mahometans have there a mofque, and the Jews of Cairo a burying-place : Di redly oppofite, on the weftern fhore, you perceive Abunumerus , a town ornamented with a mofque, and whofe name is that of a greyilh coloured bird, which is found on the Nile. At two. leagues above Baffatiin, you perteive Ell r kallaha , a fort fituated in the mountains, at a league and half diftance from the eaftern border of the Nile. — a As this part of Mr.Norden’s work, feems to be chiefly calculi for the fervice of thofe, who may be induced to undertake the fa voyage, the reader will not be difpleafed, perhaps, with palling to December 1 1, where the author begins his defeription of ande?.*- Thehcs. * ThI 12 TRAVELS IN EGYPT This fort has a Turkilh garrifon, and a mofque: There is nothing, however, but it’s fituation, that renders it confiderable ; for it’s fortifications are very indifferent. Almost oppofite Ellkallaha, you have, on the weftern fide, Manjehnufa , a village accompanied with a mofque. Between this place and Abunumerus we fee a great pyramid, built five ftories in height, and of which I have given a view amongft my defigns. Plate VI. Fig. 4. At a league and half higher, and on the fame weftern fliore, is fituated Menahtiad , another village, adorned with a mofque. You fee there the fecond pyranlids, called the pyramids of Dagjour. Almost oppofite Menanuad, you difcover, on the eaftern fiiore of the river, Ellgharaffi , a town, where the Turks, befides a mofque, have a burial-place. They have chofen this place, becaufe the ground is high enough not to be overflowed at the time of the increafe of the Nile. About a league further, but on the other fide of the river, you fee Mugna , a village that has nothing remarkable ; and on the other fide, upon the eaftern. ftiore, you difcover Deir Ell Adovia , where there is a convent of Copti. This convent, which is very -regular in it’s buildings, has not any beauty at all. We pafied, about a league higher, in front of two . .herfcon vents of Copti, fituated, the one on the ght,' the other on the left of the Nile. That on • e lefti»|amed Derr Ell Ha die. The other, which is on our „ right hand, is called Deir Abufaiffeen. iiefe two convents have nothing that can make ’m diftiiiguifhed more than that of Deir ell Adovia y $.bout a fifth part of a league higher, you meet tb Schecb Atmaen , a village of little importance, he weft of the river ; and oppofite Eurrag, a vil- where there is a mofque, and a little above a great oalifch that advances into the country. At AND NUBIA. 13 At half a league from T urrag, the Callfch run- ning between, is Mahfara , a mere village, whofe name fignifies a prefs ; but a little higher, on the other fide of the river, and at three quarters of a league diftance from its weftern fhore, appears the town of Sakarra. It is not only accompanied with a mofque *, but it is alfo famous for the commerce of mummies, which its inhabitants dig out in the plain of the mummies. You fee there likewife the laby- rinth, where they formerly buried birds, and other animals embalmed b . The different pyramids, that are near Sakarra, excited more particularly my curi- ofity, as well in going up the river, as in cqming down. Though I have already mentioned fome- thing of them, when I defcribed the pyramids, I can- not forbear adding here a few remarks, that may ferve to illuflrate the fixth plate, which contains the defigns of the three principal pyramids of this quarter. The firft of them is fituated toward the north, and built in four different ftories, which grow lefs in pro- portion as they rife higher, as the firli figure fhews. Plate VI. Fig. I. With regard to the fecond, (Fig. II.) it’s con- ftruftion does not differ from that of the pyramids of Memphis, and it has pretty nearly the fame height.. But it appears much more damaged : and it is s :*n,‘ i As this place it very little frequented by ftra ^ the paffages of the pyramid are filled with, far, i ' — w b Dr. Pococke fays, “ That the catacomb of birds Is feet deep, and about eight feet wide. Thefe catacom i more magnificent than thofe for human bodies, being tha. ofthofe birds and other animals they worlhiped; fo; i'**'.-. happened to find them dead, they embalmed them, and' them up with the fame care as they did human bodies, an.' . J , p<3| ted them in earthen vafes, covered over and Hopped do^e mortar. In one of the irregular apartments I faw feveral U’.'SpoC jars, which might be for dogs and other animals ; of which v-'iyi have been found, but are now very rare.” Page 54, whirl 1 * i4 TRAVELS IN 1 EGYPT v/hich gives a great deal of difficulty to thofe that have a mind to enter it. The third (Fig. 3.) which feems to be a little higher than the fecond, is of a very fingular figure \ and the defign, that I give of it, will make it much better perceived than any defcription. Of all the pyramids, it is that which appears to have fuffered the moll, though it is not open ; and I ffiould have no hefitation to conclude from thence, that it is the moll ancient of all the great pyramids. Imult obferve, that neither this, nor the others, have the leaft ap- pearance of having been ever covered with granite. These obl'ervations being made, I refume the thread of my relation. After having feen the pyra- mids of Sakarra, we got to Helovan , a village on the eaftern ffiore, and whole name fignifies mildnefs. It mull be owned, however, that it is neither more mild, nor more beautiful, nor more agreeable than Schiim y another village, fituated on the weftern ffiore. We arrived there about ten o’clock at night. The air was then fo calm, that there was no poffibility of making way again!! the current of the river ; which obliged us to call anchor till the next day. LjTuesdav, 19 th of November. T he wind was north, and ftrong enough to over- et nc ' he current. We weighed anchor therefore, tel. • : i o’clock in the morning; and we got very ore 'Giefiret Terfaye : It is an ifland fituated the eaftern ffiore. It has but one village, mo great importance, ft, uiredtly oppofite its fouthern point, and OTIP j hffir, Mefguna , a town fur rounded by five or r little villages, of which fome are at a fmall dif- ♦jtnde from the Nile. Tebbiin , a village, fituated near two leagues and a half above Giefiret Terfaye ■but it is nothing near fo confiderable as Bag j our , a town AND NUBIA. I$ town, which has a pretty appearance, on account of its mofques ; but which is ilill more to be valued on account of the pyramids that are in its neighbour- hood, and which prelent ,a very agreeable profpecl between Dagjour, Mefguna, and Shiim. * At a little more than a league above Dagjour, we had to our right the village of Schoback ; we had at the fame time to our left, Gamafe El Kebir a ; that is to fay Gamafe the great. This village has a’mofque. We had likewife at a league and a quarter higher two other villages •, namely to our right Kofferloyad, and to our left Lagfas. Juft above thofe two vill- ages begins an ifland, of three quarters of a league in length, fituated almoft in the middle of the fiver ; but I know not whether it has any name. . We find a league further Mffanda , a mere village,' and Gamafe Ellogoira ; that is to fay Gamafe the little \ • A town, which is properly a duller of five villages. I landed there, and took particular notice of the ploughs, which led me to obferve how very little . - eredit is to be given to the relations of thofe authors, who would perfuade us, that the Land is not plough- ed in Egypt, and that it is fufficient to fcatter the feed immediately after the inundation is over. Towards the evening our barque was ftranded, between Gamafe Ellogoira and Gieziret Ella ZaU They comprehend under this name a firing of few little i Hands, very clofe one to another, a Tittle Eprlf er the weftern fhore than the eaftern ; they occi Jy - * lpace of about four leagues ; and each has its viiUm There are two other villages on the bord the river, diredlly oppofite the third of tHefe ifla-S That which is to the eaft, is named EJfcff •, and -at which is to the weft, is called Menjelkarag . On Wm eaftern fide are two other villages, namely Huod. % fituated diredlly oppofite the northern point of th’ fifth ifland, and Gubbebaad , oppofite the feventl iiland, which has, on the oppofite fide of the river tS TRAVELS IN EGYPT. Rigga, a village on the .weftern fhore of the Nile* There arofe in the night a little wind, which indu- ced our failors to leap out into the water, and to lighten the barque. We advanced, however, but very little. Wednesday, 20 th of November. We had all that day a great calm, and a very ftrong current j which may be attributed to the iflands that contraft a little the bed of the Nile in this place. We could not advance without the afliftance of a cord, with \Yhich they towed the bark, between the iflands on the right, and the villages of Efloff, Huoddi, and Gubbebaad on the left. At three quarters of a league above Gieziret Ella Zale, we meet with a firing of three other iflands j j the two firft are fmall, and the third of three quarters of a league in length, named Eutfeeg, and of which I fhall fpeak prefently. Directly oppofite the firft of thefe little iflands, there are two villages of little confideration, the one named Salchie : we had it to our left : the other, call- ed Udwab, was to our right. We had a great deal of difficulty to arrive thither. Opposite the northern p.dnt of the ifland of EuU °g, which has a village accompanied with a mofque, perceived, on our right, but at half a league with- land, the village of Soft , fituated to the north eaft ■/ Meduun , r a village likewife, that is a good league . rant from the weflern fhore of the Nile. It is be- v, . en thefe two places, but a little nearer to the laflr h i the firft, that we find the mofl fouthern of all the pyramids of Dagjour, and even as I imagine of all 1 Egypt. I have already fpoken of it in my firft vo- •u me *, and I have there given the reafon why the P<: ople of the country call it thefalfe pyramid. I fhall add here, that though it is built o i bricks harden- ed AND NUBIA. i; e'd in the fun, yet it is of a very beautiful ftature. It has been fo well preferred, through fo many ages, that we can fcarce obferve in it any decay. It owes its beautiful appearance principally to its fitua- tion upon a fquare hill, whofe four fides with a gentle afcent terminate fo exactly at the foot of the pyramid, that, from a diftance, they appear to make but one continued body. As the great calm, which continued, did not per- mit us to advance any further, we tied our barque, near a great plain covered with Turkey wheat, which began to be ripe. We faw that day abundance of camels •, but they did not come near enough for us to fhoot them 15 . In the evening we were furrounded;by .thole bats, that leek their food upon the Nile. During the night, we kept a good guard. Every four hours we fired a mufquet, to let it be known, that we could not be taken by lurprize, and we con- tinued this method all the reft of our voyage. Thursday, 2 i ft of November.^ The calm and the current continued all that day ; which obliged us ftill to ftay there. More^ than an . hundred barques, which came from the Upper Egypi palfed before us in a row, and defeended by means o* the current, to go to Cairo. They were, all extreme ly loaded. The leifure that we had, invited us to land. Oil people fired upon abundance of pigeons^ and killed fome ; but they were out of feafon and fol hard th we could not eat them. They found their account better in killing a fdm c In the original it is chatneaux d'eau ; whether they are a particu. T ipecies of camels, or a differtm kind of animals, I do not know*" v Vol. II. C M 1 8 TRAVELS IN EQYPT. of partridge, that was delicious, and of the fize of our red partridges. They had feathers like thofe of the Guinea hens, and the tail like a fwallow. 1'heir flelh has an aromatic tafle, and a great deal of flavour. There was no one in our barque that knew them. We gathered likewife a great deal of purflain amongft the corn. Friday, n i of November. No wind in the morning. In the afternoon there arefe a very high wind •, but it came from the fouth ; in- fomuch that it obliged us to continue where we were. To this high foutherly wind fucceeded another calm, which was "followed by a gentle wind from north Weft. We f|f fail in order to take advantage of it; but it did net laft long, and the calm, which retur- J ned, reduced us to tow the barque againft the ftream. This fort of working the vefTel did not forward us .much : we made but very little way with a great deal of trouble : for which reafon we determined to fallen the barque to the eaftern lhore of the Nile. Saturday, 23 d of November. Still a great calm in the morning. We landed in order to leek for fome proviflons : but we found none, and returned 'aboard. A little while after, we were able to let fail, by means of a gentle wind at north weft. It did not however laft long -, and we were obliged to have reccurfe to the cord, of which we made ule till noon, when the wind became tlrong enough rohnake us advance forward and even to break ourmizen yard. This accident occafioned us tip return back to Salchie, where, whilft they put us ip a new yard, we got in proviflons of eatables for lOme days. We afterwards let fail, and advanced # about a league ; but the wind, which was north eaft, ruf became AND NUBIA. t 9 became fo violent, that it obliged us to reef all our fails. We were then diredlly oppofite Giefiret Eut- feeg. It is an ifland fituated near the eaftern fhore of the Nile : It has a village of the fame name, with a molque and a grove, which, though fmall, contri- butes to render its fituation very agreeable. There are oppofite Giefiret Eutfeeg two villages •, that which is to the eaft is called Soil ; and that which is to the weft, is named£^/«. Towards the evening, the wind having become more traflable, and northerly, gave us the opportunity of advancing forwards. We pafted before two villages, the one oppofite to the other ; namely Brumbul , upon the eaftern fhore, and Huafia , upon the weftern fhore. The name of this laft fignifies the mediator. We difcovered almoft at the fame time two iflands, towards the eaftern fhore of the river. The firft, which has no more than a quarter of a league in length, is named Giefiret Ell Gurmand. The other, which may have double the length, is called Giefiret •. Barrakaed : they ' are feparated the one from the other by a narrow pafiage - 3 and they have each a village. M In the night, we made faft the bark before Sauvied- Elmafluub 3 a town upon the weftern fhore of the river, oppofite Giefiret Barrakaed. It is accompanied, with a mofque •, and its name fignifies the watering place of the crofs. Sunday, of November! » I went again to fee, early in the morning, falfe pyramid, of which I have made mention befc :e I was at a pretty great diftance from it •, but I gu near enough, however, to judge of its conftru&i >n. and to remark the bricks that have been employed;, in it. At my return to Sauvied-Elmafluub, we receive? C 2 . •tnV‘ 20 TRAVELS IN EGYPT the vifit of Muftapha, brother of Kiaja , or colonel Oiman-Bey. He made us a prefent of two fheep, ot thirty hens, of an hundred eggs, and of a bafket of bread. In return, we gave him fome Candian wine^ itrong liquors of divers lorts, flierbet, and fome other trifles. He was an acquaintance that we had made at Cairo. After having taken leave of him we fet fail about ten in the morning. We had little wind and a great deal of rain, which did not hinder us from going beyond Komgeride , a place fituated at a little diltance from the weitern fhore of the Nile. ft might be called a town, and it is even pretty large. It has a great molque*iftrrounded by feveral others that are 1 mailer. Soon after we found, on the fame fide of the river, ; Bcnnehedder, a mere village. It has, alma ft oppofite to it, Dirmmumfrz *@6pti convent,' which has but a very littlelextent of arable ground. Around this ■ convent are^ planted feven palm trees, which the people of the country efteem a kind of marvel, be- caule, from whatever fide you look at them, you can never count them all at once. Verv near the convent of Dirmimund, we fee the tomb of a pretended Mahometan faint. On the other Ihore of the Nile, we difcover Meimund , a town, whole mofqpe has a very pretty appearance. At about a league higher, we found Efcbmmd Ell dr-fab, a village fituated in inch a manner, on the aorder of the Nile, that the waters of this river carry ..way, almolt every . year, fome part of it. "T hough its houfes are of as bad a ftrufture, as any -if thofe that we find between Cairo and this place, :hey have however this in particular, that the top is always terminated by a pigeon-houfe, which, at a diftance, gives a very agreeable fight. From Efcb- ; vfend Ell Arrab , quite to the firft cataracl, they obferve /Exactly this manner of building ; and there is in fome . places 2 t AND NUBIA. places even a law, which does not permit any man to marry, and to keep houfe, unlefs he is in polleflion of fuch a dove-houfe. The reafon of it is, that the dung of thefe birds is the only thing they have for manuring the ground ; for they preferve carefully the dung of other animals for burning ; and the foot, which comes from it, fierves to make the fal ammoniac. These houfes are almoft every where built in fuch a manner, that whilft the pigeons inhabit the top, the proprietor with his family occupies the lower part. Yet, notwithftanding the agreeable profpefi; which they prefent at a diftance, you no fooner approach, or enter them, than you immediately perceive nothing but poverty and mifery. After we had ftopt an half hour at Efchmend Ell Arrab, we got our boat towed in order to double a l point, which advances a little Kvay into the Nile *, and this point being doubled, we were able to make ufe of our fails. 1'he Iky was overcaft ; but the'i'e blew a north wind, ftrong enough to make us pafs by two great villages fituated on the weftern Ihore, and which have each a molque. The one is Benmah , that is to fay the fon of Ali : the other is Zeituua , a word which fignifies an olive tree. We paffed by fucceflively three other villages much lefs confiderable, and of which I Ihall com .-! myfelf with giving the names, Schendhtie , Buttfch , in Mankaritfche . The other border of the river is defert. At two leagues above the convent of Dim mund, the mountains approach fo near the border the Nile, that in a fpace of twenty-five leagues, fee fcarce any arable lands ; we difcover there or an infinite quantity of ruins of ancient edifices. In the evening, at eight o’clock, we caft ana before Benefoef a city fituated on the weftern Ihrr^ of the Nile. It is a kind of capital, at thirty-Tsig,; . leagues diftance from Cairo, and the place of r C 3 denp 22 TRAVELS IN EGYPT dence of a bey, who is the governor of it. The mofques give it a grand look. We perceive, dire&ly oppofite Benefoef, Beyjadie \ a place, which is properly nothing but the retreat of a band of Chri Ilians, who, to the difgrace of the name they bear, are all highwaymen. There would be no fafety in paffing a night there. You would rifque both your goods and life. It is eafy to judge, that the greateft part of the places, which I have hitherto mentioned, fubfift only by their communica- tion with Cairo, whither they fend their commodities. Their greateft commerce conftfts in fowls, and eggs, which they keep till fome bark pafles, to which they fell them in wmWefale. This is the reafon, that a ftranger, who travels in the country, cannot, without a great deal of difficulty, purchafe his provifions in thofe places. In orcjer to have a dozen eggs, it is ncceflary fometimes to go and feek for them in four ■different houfes ; and fo of the reft. Hassan bey, formerly a flave, and afterwards a favourite of Ofman bey, who is the chief of the Yoldiery, was governour of Benefoef* and we had , fters of recommendation to him * but he was gone o vifit fome places of his demefnes * and we thought r not proper to ftay till his return. I went, how^ V r, on ffiore, as well to fee the town as to purchafe if i fome powder, and ffiot. The gunpowder coft 1 welve parats the rotal * and I paid for the fhot Lie rate of fix parats the rotal. Vs foon as I came on board again, we fet fail with ' i , ,ood north wind * and very near Benefoef, we faw barks, that had been caft away lately, and their cargoes loft. JFr a little league above Benefoef, and on the fame e, we faw Ti/mend^ a village accompanied with a Monday, 25 th of November. mofque AN T J^ NUBIA.* 23 mofque. At half a league above, llaflabie , a ir.erc village r half a league higher, Mellaghk, which is nothing but a village likewii'e. At half a league higher alio Tcba-Ana* Afterwards, at a quarter of a league further, Baranga •, next at like diftance, oney from another, Tanza, Benehgafein , and Komoufch. All this quarter is very much peopled. In going up as far as the monaftery of faint Michael, of which I fhall fpeak prefently, we find that the-’placcs are no more than a quarter of a league Siftant one from another. In return, the eaftern ilipre is almoft a defert. The mountains ‘there run quite to Nejlct- Abcnuur , a village fituat^d oppofite JBaranga ; and the name of which fig nines the d'jcentof the father of light , which are very reipafkafiW wYc lee there amongit others the' raprefen^tidTv.vS^aJ rock, that the Turks call Schiamed, or the'Cafrfek “and of which they take fuch account that*tlyry never fail to Ihew it to travellers, as fomething very finguiar. It is, however, nothing but a piece of rock, that in length of time has taken of itfelf a figure,' V/hteh appears to* them to refemble that of a camel . - ■ V In continuing our voyage, we faw the, village of Bebe. It was to our right. This village has .a mofque. //’ a. * We afterwards pafied by three little t^TLages fee. one named Elfugaye \ the other called third bears the name of Bedaeg. - >t about a quarter of a league from the pore ,r river. A little further, we faw Fefcbiftjjji. to.- iu has a mofque. It is fituated on the v^fteri of the Nile, and almoft oppofite a village Abufeid \ which fignifies father of the Seid. \\ it on our left ; for it is fituated on the other "fide the Nile. Advancing a little, we reached at firft the vil g of Ababe , which we had on the right •, and after wards that of Tent, which was on the fame fide; * C 4 This.. 24 TRAVELS IN EGYPT ■rSB| . I This laft feemed to be a little mbre confiderable than the former ; but that might be the effect of its mofque. After having paffed Tent, we approached near two little iftands, which lie north, and fouth, and are feparated only by a narrow paffage. The firft, or the molt northern, is named Schcrona. It is nearer the eaftern ihore . than thg weftern, where there are two villages that make but one, named Mayana and H'allabia. On the other fide of the river, there is likewife a villag^called Snuvied Ell Efchiedami. The fecond ifland, whidi is nearer the weftern Ihore, than the eaftern, is fituated oppofite the villages of Magaga , r -'.chfiath, and Ablaed , of w'nich the fecond is the aoft confideraDTe,,and has a mofque. There are, in like manner, on the eaftern Ihore of the Nile, oppofite this fecond ifland, three villages placed in this order : Schegona , Scberarbie , and Benc- gamet . The firft is the moft remarkable *, becaufe it was near this village, that Schierres-Bey, and Soli- man-Bey, had an engagement. This place is ftill the common field of battle, when there is any differ- ence between the Senfihiacs. The weakeft party retires then into the Upper Egypt. It’s adverfary purfues them to this place, where at length the quar- rel is decided with the fabre in hand. . ' We paf^eOTiicceffively before live other villages, one to another, and all fituated on the weftern ■ i namely,’ Gicndic , a mere village*, Abutfchorfche , tyhc i there is a convent of Copti •, Bencmafaeg , a • v village, iGecs, a town with a mofque •, and Kufr , where there is a convent of Copti. m all the ipace occupied by thefe live places, there on the other fide the Nile, but one fingle village, med Abufchikajf ; and even that has no great •■pearance. We faw afterwards, on our right, the four follow-. /Tillages, Nczift Tobaftt, a mere village ■, Matt at, , / " fituated AND NUBIA. 25 fhuated within land, at about a quarter of a league from the border of the Nile : Kufr Benemhammedy that is to fay, the antiquity of the children of Ma- homed. It derives its name from Benemhammedy fituated oppofite to it, on the eaflern lhore, and which is compofed of two villages, diflant half a league the one from the other ; but which are com- prehended both under the fame name. Kufr Benem- hammed lies a little above it, and on the fame fide the village of Collofano. Advancing infenfibly, we palfed by fuccefiively three other places, namely Mag far a , a mere village ; Samaluudy a village with a moique ; and Schereina , a mere village. We had at the fame time, on our left, four other places, ranged at equal diflances ; namely Dulab , Serrerie , Kfchebbat , and Teir , or Deiir. The laft of thefe villages appeared to me the molt confiderable, you fee there a Copti convent, under the name of Notre Dame ; but it is at prefent inha- bited only by fome private Copti Chriftians ; and it is built wholly of clay. There are alfo the ruins of abundance of houles and palaces, built of free-ftone ; but which have been fo ill treated, that at prefent we difcover in them nothing but the compals of ground they took up. The tradition of the country is, that they are the remains of a place called formerly Sciron y and which was built by a magician. You may remark flairs made pretty regularly in the rock. We lofe fight of them, about the middl of the height of the rock; but a little further towards the north, they appear again, and conti quite to the border of the Nile. There is a kind of aqueduct, for conveyir ■ - } water of the Nile, which was drawn up by means of an engine. It appears very ancient, and is bu:' T great (lanes. Lastiy! 2 6 TRAVELS IN EGYPT Lastly, you fee the entrance of the Hairs from whence they have drawn Hone for building. I cannot conceive for what purpofe it was made, unlefs as a way to defcend to the river. This entrance appears pretty large ; but it is not poffible to difcern any thing elfe in it. The Stairs terminate at the bottom of the rock; it was not poffible for us to go up them, on account of the Hones, which often fall down, and render the pafiage very dangerous. There are abundance of other quarries and grot- tos *, but as they are not diflributed in any order, I did not think it poffible to difcover in them any- thing remarkable* In our return from this place, we faw perfons advancing towards us, upon their having heard feveral difcharges of a gun, which we had fired at fome birds. At eight o’clock in rhe evening, we palled before r Ell Burtfchen , a place compofed of two little villages adjoining to each other. We had them on our right. We advanced again, as far as Sohvrra, which may be at half a league higher, on the fame fide. Our purpofe was to continue our voyage the whole night. An accident hindered us. Our barque Hruck fo vio- lendy againfl a bank of land, that we had a good €k''i of difjficulty to get it off. I must not omit to obferve, before I finilh the .tail of the voyage of the 25 th of November, that I - ,*rceived, after' having paffed Benefoef, the bed of le Nile contra&s itfelf greatly ; and that, from the’ morning to the evening, we remarked, on our right, 2 traft of country, pretty large, and well cultivated ; vherea.s on our left, we difcovered fcarce any thing out mountains, fandy for the moff part, and which extended themfelves quite to the border of the river. ’ Directly oppolite Sohorra, there is an ifland of dieTame name, fituated, however, near the eaffern f fhore of the Nile j and this ifland has a village. Tuesday* 2 / AND NUBIA. Tuesday, 26 th of November. We continued failing, with a very good north wind •, and the weather was very agreeable. In the morning we pafied by three villages, fituated on the weftern border of the Nile. The two firft were Eaghel, and Amu den, they are adjoining one to the other. The third is called Ebne-Ghaziim. At noon we came near to Menie. They reckon this place the half way between Cairo and Girge. Ijtjhould befaid pretty near the half way ; for Girge is at an hundred leagues diftance from Cairo •, and Menie is only at forty-feven leagues ; fo there are wanting three leagues of its being the half way. ThW’efiels, that go down the Nile for Cairo, are obliged to ftop at Menie, and to pay there feme duties. The place appears pretty confiderable. You fee in it more than one mofque ; and I obferved there amongft others a great number of granite pillars. We fee, oppofite Menie, on the eaftern border of the Nile, Sauuada , a village, whofe name fignifies Chajte. We fee there divers fugar mills. At half a league above Menie, and to the weft of the river, 1 you obferve Benemhammed , compofed of three villages, fituated a quarter of a league one from another. m We reached afterwards to Ell Mottaghara , or Metaghera. They call by this name, an- extent of country, which comprehends fix villages ; three on the right, and three on the left of the Nile* together with an ifland of the fame name, fituated near to the weftern Ihore of the river. The foreft of palm trees . here, is three leagues in length, and extends itfelf along the eaftern Ihore, between Ell Mottaghara. and Sauuada. After having pafied Mottaghara, we met with Bennehajfcin. It is the name of five villages, fituaf on the eaftern Ihore of the Nile, and which are*^ very 2$ , TRAVELS IN EGYPT, very near one to another. A portion of lands that are on the other fide of the river belongs to thefe villages, of which the firH, befides the general name of Bennehaffein, bears likewife that of Girgarcs. The mountains of this quarter are famous, on account of the grottos of holy hermits, that have formerly made their abodes in them. We palfed by fucceflively the villages of Segale y Kirkar , Mefchiel Dabes , Sakiedmufa, Garanduul, and Rodda , all fituated on the wefiern border of the Nile, excepting Garanduul, which may be three quarters of a league within land. A little above Rodda, there is a califch, called Bagher Fufef. On the other fide of the river, appears ^vith its mofque the city of Schek Abade , formerly Antinoe, the capital of the lower Thebai's. We perceive there divers antiquities, in which they did not employ thofe enormous Hones, that the edifices of the ancient Egyptians are compofed of-, but Hones ofSi moderate fize, and pretty much like thofe which were made ufe of for building the triumphal arches at Rome. We remark principally, amongH its ruins, three great gates, of which the firH is adorned with columns of the corinthian order, fluted : the two others, which correfpond to the firH, have much fewer ornaments. Thefe ruins of the ancient Antinoe are at the foot of the mountains, and bordering on the Nile. The walls of the houfes were built of bricks, that are at prefent as red as if they were but , juH made. There is a great probability, that the ‘ village of Rodda, which I mentioned a little above, was the Mokkias of Antinoe. On the other fide of the river, we difcover, at ' about half a league within land, and at a quarter of a league from the califch, the Copti convent of St. Michael. A little higher, and on the border of the -Nile, we faw a finall village, named Beyjadie ELI ' Kcbira. AND NUBIA. 29 F a. Here, the villages begin again to be a little jfcre diftant one from another. ■« \t eight o’clock in the evening, we got before ffezlet Ell Raramu , a village fituated on the w r eftern fhore of the Nile. It is cuftomary for barques to flop before this village, when they arrive too late to be able to pafs by day-light before Monfaluut. At my return I perceived there more than twenty barks, which formed a kind of caravan. On the other border of the Nile, oppofite Nezlet Ell Raramu, you fee a Copti convent, named Deir Abmchbnnna. The breadth of the land cultivated on this fide is no more than a quarter of a league. Con- tinued mountains occupy the reft of the country; but along the weftern fhore there is nothing but arable lands, as far as the fight can extend itfelf ; and you have even a difficulty to difcover the mountains. Wednesday, 27'* of November. The weather being very fine, and the wind favour- able, we failed the whole night ; and paft at firft before Ell Berfcbell , we had this village on our left, and Acbemuneim was on our right. It is in this place, or near it, that the ancient Hermopolis flood, which Ammianus Marcellinus reckons amongft themoft famous cities of the Thebais. About a league further, we perceived, at half a league within land, Mellavi , a town of an handfom-s appearance, and where there is a mofque and a ca chef. Still further on, and on the fame fide, we f A Magfera, a village fituated a 1 moll oppofite to leant cr ; they give this name to a deep grotto, whc v/e fee abundance of pilallers, or fquare props, favc * out of the rock. Derut Ell Scberiff prefented itfelfi afterwards on the weft. This village has a mofque. A league further, and on the fame fide, bur prettA 30 TRAVELS IN EGYPT pretty near half a league within land, we perceived the village of Galanifch. There is fcarce any fafety in this place for barques, that are not armed. The, Arabs of this quarter are real pyrates •, and they maintain themfelves in this practice, in fpite of the government. We were told, that the Senfchiak, having fent thither, one day, his barks to feize the chief of thefe pyrates, they brought him the head of a Chriftian {lave, whom they murdered in a barque, that was by chance near their Ihore. They made him believe that it was the head of their chief j and the Senfchiak, being highly delighted with the pre- fent, paid for it bountilully. He dilcovered, how- ever, the cheat the next day, and caufed the authors to be feverely punifhed. In advancing continually, we made up to the village of Fafara , and afterwards to that of Mifara. They are both on the weftern Ihore of the river -, and the laft is oppolite to Beneam - raen y or Qmame . They comprehend under this name an extent of country, wherein are fituatedfourvillages very near one to another. On the weftern fide we perceived two villages, the one named Sembo ; the other called Ell Gufia. The firft is, however, placed at a league within land. Each of them is accompanied with a mofque. Their inhabitants have the character of being extremely "omuch that it is neceftarv to be on our 1 we approach their country. In the morning we reached two places, fituated on the borders of the Nile, the one on the right, the other on the left. That which is to the weft is named Urn Ell Gitjucr ; the other is called Ell Kgufuer. It is a convent of Copti. In this quarter, the mountains, which extend along theeaft of the Nile, approach fo near the water, that you have a difficulty to pafs on horfeback upon the border of the river. Thefe mountains are, in this Blace : full of grottos ; fome great, and others fmall. ■ . They wicked ; in guard, whe AND NUBIA. je They all frrved as retreats for the workmen, who formerly worked in thefe quarries, from whence they drew ftones for theedifkes they were to eredt. Above Ell Kgufuer rife the mountains of Abuffode , which are properly nothing but rocks, very high, and very Iteep, and which extend along the Nile. We had them all the whole day on our left. One can nowhere find mountains, which give more evident proofs of the univerfal deluge ; for you remark in them, from the fummit quite to the foot, the imprefiions that the water made in finking. There are, in different places! of thefe rocks, echoes fo diftindl, that they lofe not a fingle fyllable. We find there, on the border of the river, an infinite number of grottos, where holy hermits have dwelt, and which are occupied at prefent by a fort of Arabs, that follow the profeffion of py rates upon the Nile. They have a fchech •, but they do not obey him any further than they pleafe. Neither do they trouble themfelves about the Turkifh government, which often purfues them, to punifii their robberies but they have the art to fhelter themfelves, by retiring into the mountains. Wefaw a dozen of their barques fattened in a little creek, which the Nile forms at the foot of the rocks. At eleven in the morning, we patted ^before the village of Scbugeria , upon the wettern fhore ; a: hour after, we arrived before MonfaliiutS a city i. ted on the fame fide, and at feme difcance -from.' the river. It is a fort of capital ; its mbfques ... it a beautiful appearance, and it is the fee of a C > bifhop. The adjacent country is very fertile* You fi. there all forts of fruits, and in abundance, even , apples. The vefiels that go up the Nile, pay a cuftom houfe duty at Monfaiuut. Every traveller, that led by curiofity alone, will do well in not permittin 32 TRAVELS IN EGYPT to take on board his barque any fort of merchandizes ; for that expofes one to abundance of opprefiions and inconveniencies. We had experience of it here, and in other places. Opposite this town there is, on the eaftern border of the Nile, a Copti convent, abfolutely inaccefiible. Thofe that would enter into it are obliged to get themfelves raifed up in a bafket, by means of a pulley ; which has given to the monaftery the name of the fully convent. Near the neighbouring mountains there dwells a Bedouin, whofe name is PIasser Abuaffi. He has the'artifice to maintain himfelf there without the per- milfion of the government of Cairo. He lows and plants there ; he even levies a tythe upon the crops of his fubjefts. Every time that the Senlchiak goes . to Monfaluut, a report is ipread that it is determined to make war on him ; but the affair is always accommo- dated by means of fome purfes, or other prefents that he makes. * * Towards the evening, we reached an ifiand, fituated between two villages : the one to the eaft, named Ell-Maabda. The other to the weft, called T ava. The pafiage is very dangerous in this place ; and we found there in fadl-a barque run aground, and iunk. About a league further, we find another ifiand, where the palfage is ftill more perilous •, its name is Giefiret Vulcidbaggid. This iecond ifiand, which has half a league in length, is likewiie fituated between wo villages : the one, to which it is very near, is ;alled Ell Mahamadie. The other, from which it is "urther diftant, and which is on the weftern fhore, is lamed Netfchafchiellava . Afterwards, having palfecl Sckach Tamifck, a village fituated alfo on the weftern fhore, we-made fall the barque at a quarter of a league from the village of d< illaon, fituated likewife on the lame fide. AND NUBIA. 3 2 We Taw that day the firft crocodile. It was ex- tended upon a bank of fand, that the decreafe of the waters of the Nile had occafioned above the level of the river. When he faw our barque approach, he threw himfelf forwards and haftened, though heavily, into the water. We judged him to be ten feet in length. Thursday, 28 th of November. For want of wind, we this morning got our barque *0 be towed by our failors. It was a hard work for jm'e poor wretches ; for it was very cold weather, and they had fcarce any thing to cover them. It was neceflary, however, to refolve upon it, that we might be able to double the elbow, that the Nile makes between Benuup Ell Hainan , a village, which was on our left, and Sallaem Ell Odder , another village, that we left on our right. The elbow that the Nile makes in this place, is fb confiderable, that from Sallaem Ell Odder to the point of Siuut, that is to fay in the fpace of more than three leagues, our rout was from north to eaft. At half way we found two villages, the one to our right, named Mangabar the other to the left, called Ell Ekrat. There is, between thefe two villages, an bland of three quarters of a league in length. Not- withftanding all our care, it was not poffible to pre- vent our barque from ftriking feveral times oppofite this ifland ; but as we had fine weather we got off without much difficulty. In the afternoon, we doubled the point of Siuut This town has the figure of another capital. It ha a cafchef, and fome mofques •, and it is the fee of c Copti biffiop. This place is the rendezvous of thofc that have a mind to be of the caravan, that fets ou* from Siuut for Sennar. These grottos, named at prefent Salabinath , 2 V01. II. D made 34 TRAVELS IN EGYPT made in the mountain called TJ 'chehat ell Kofferi. You go up it for two hours, before you arrive at the firft gate, to which the way up the mountain leads. You enter, through this gate, into a great faloon, fup- ported by hexagonal pillars, contrived in the rock ltfelf. -The roofs are adorned with paintings, which we diftinguilh extremely well even at prei'ent ; and the gold that was employed there glitters on all Tides. \The pavement is covered with land and ftones •, and this is all that one can remark in this faloon. We perceive, indeed, here and there fome openings, thread to other apartments j but as they are tided widrrubbilh, and the pafiages are likewife . emfcarraffedlwith it, no one chutes to venture himfelf there. Above, there is an apartment, to which you may arrive by climbing up on the outfide with a great deal of difficulty. It is not io great as the firft, and it has no pillars •, but it is painted like the other. On each fide of this fecond faloon, you perceive a - tomb of the fame ftone as the mountain with^mjeh they make a continued body. The one of. thefe tombs is open, and the other clofed •, but.nlmoft buried in the land. This fuperior faloon communi- cates likewife with other apartments-, but the -com - -municaiion between them is not free and you . find the fame impediments as in the inferior faloon. That part of the mountain, where we fee feven openings, on the fame line, is named the feven chambers. There is, amongft the Turks, and amongft he Arabs, an ancient tradition, that thefe chaziibers • ere inhabited by feven virgins. However that may bej- therFis no doubt but thefe grottos are as .mag- < ; nldcent’as thofe I have mentioned \ and it- is pity hat no traveller has yet entered into them! I had an extreme defire of going up, to- ednfider -things nearly ; but the way was too long to travel onfoot ; and it was nor pofiible for me to find a heaft to carry me. I was obliged to be content with the deftrip- AND NUBIA. 35 tion of it, that a perfon of our company gave me. He had been there the year before ; and I have done nothing but repeat the account I received from him. There was formerly, at Siuut, a califch, called Ell Maafrata. It went quite to Senabo, but is at ^ prefent wholly filled up. A little above the town of Siuut begin the habitations of the Arabs, known under the name of Havarra. They poflefs likewife lands on the other fide of the Nile. They call them natives of thq kingdom of Maroc. They are the bell kind of Arabs. They are governed by a fchech ; and they are all gentlemen, pretty much like the Polanders. The wind was favourable ; we took advantage of it, for purfuing our voyage, and pafied very foon be- tween two villages Benimuur , which we had to our left ; and Schiub , that we left on the right. At a good quarter of a league higher we faw Catea , a village fituated on the fame fide ; and aimoft oppofite to it there was another named Ell Motmar . Friday, 29 th of November. To the weft of the Nile, the border of the river i$ all covered with trees, from Catea quite to Eli Nechcheele. We did not enjoy however the beauty of this view, becaufe w ? e continued the whole night, to fail. There is, oppofite Nechcheele , another ivillage called Sachet, about which we remark divers califchr maintained by the proprietors of the lands; but,-> the government does not oblige them to keep the califchs in repair, they are often changed, and indeed^ * are of no great importance. Towards the morning we were becalmed, and this ' current became very ftrong, which obliged us to cob tinue the whole day near Sachet. A Copt 1 prieft,whom we had taken into our barque . * at a little diftance from Cairo, took leave of us here D 2 -■ ' 36 TRAVELS IN EGYPT No one regretted this lofs. As plain as he was, he carried it however pretty high : infoinuch that he dared to tell us, more than once, that he could not take us for Chriftians lince not one of us had offered to kifs his hands : whereas the Copti ran, every day, in crowds round him, to Ihew their rei'ped; by fuch marks of fubmiffion. Our people went afhore to get in fome proviflons, which were wanting to us j and they killed abundance of pigeons. They law a great number of other birds, but the difficulty was to get near them. They killed, however, a goofe of the Nile, and whole plumage was extremely beautiful. But what was If ill better, it was of an exquifite aromatic tafte, fmelt of ginger, and had a great deal of flavour. Its craw was full of Turkey wheat, and of a root that grows on the border of the Nile when the water is low. It was from this root that the flefh received its talte and its flavour ; for nothing refembles ginger more than this root. The Arabs of the adjacent parts were then at war, and killed each other daily. This did not hinder us however from going affiore and we were not ex- pqfed to any infult. We law Arabs cutting their harveft in a neigh- bouring plain. They cut at one time no more corn than their cattle could confume of the draw in one clay y and as foon as they had cut this corn, they i.began to plough the land, in order to prepare it for la frelli lowing. Saturday, 3o' h of November. The calm and the great current continued •, info- * Audi that we remained Hill that day in the fame place. In the morning, I went to Nechcheele, as well to fee the place, as to take advantage of the market that was. kept there on that day. I found 37 was and low any AND NUBIA, it was nothing but a mere village,. The bazar neyerthelefs pretty well flocked with provifions with fome lew iron wares. The whole at a price ; though there was not an abundance of thing. This market, or bazar, is kept every week. They bring thither what they have been able to fave in the courfe of the week; and as poverty reigns gene- rally in thefe quarters, that which is brought to the market confifts ufually of three or four hens, half a dozen eggs, fome little wheat, pumkins and other like commodities. Every one comes in perfon to the market with his little effects. They have not fuffioi- ent confidence in their neighbours, to truft them in their hands ; which is the reafon that there are com- monly almofl as many men as commodities. Money is rare in this country ; fo that four parats there will pafs for five. They purchafe two fat fheep for an hundred and ten parats : two hens for five parats ; twenty eggs for one parat ; and the reft in proportion. Our people had that day good fuccefs in game. They brought,amongft other things, three coramane s, a fort of bird of the fize of a woodcock, of a delicious tafte ; but ftill more efteemed on account of it’s fine note. The Turks give for them eight or ten fequins, when they are taken young and have been taught to fing. With regard to their beauty, it confifts only in their large eyes ; for their feathers do not differ from thofe of the wild duck. i.J| Sunday, i ft of December. * A Gentle wind fprung up, which permitted u to fail, and brought us, about eight o’clock in tlv' morning, before Abutitfche. It is a pretty confide 1 --' ble town, upon the weftern fhore of the Nile. It hasa fome mofques. We paffed aftewards before Dcnrjlr Th’y r an - D % thus. 38 TRAVELS IN EGYPT, thus a village, fituated on the fame fide, but retired near a league within land. The principal bufinefs of its inhabitants confifts in making eunuchs. Direftly oppofite, on the other fide of the Nile, is the village of Buet. About a league and half further, we find two other villages ; namely Scherck Seliin , on the eaftern border of the river, and Bennifees , on the •weftern border. A little higher, and on the fame fide, we fee Sylfa , a village, which is the place of refidence of an Arab fchech. Dueer-Ait appears afterwards a little higher; and at near half a league within land. A Third village (hews itlelf afterwards, and is named Kardous. There are two others oppofite to it, namly Merrefcbis , and Ell Bedari , which are almoft contiguous. At a league higher, but on the weftern fhore of the river, we fee Nejlet Ell Hemma ; and at a like diftance, (till higher, Tame. Between thefe two vill- ages is fituated an ifland, named Giefiret Toma. It may have half a league in length •, and is nearer the eaftern border than the weftern. It derives its name from the village Toma , fituated on the eaft of the Nile, at fome diftance from its border. Ber denis is another neighbouring village, fituated on the fame fide, as likewife Gau Scherkie , which has fucceeded to the lejfer Diofpolis. We fee there an ancient temple, that has nearly fixty paces in length, upon forty in breadth. It feems to be covered only with a fingle y . one, which refts upon columns ; and its roof is fo ell preferved, that you (till difcinguifh on it very *'■ •• early the hieroglyphics, with which it had been . oaded. It has nothing elfe remarkable. The Arabs if pay fo little regard to it, that they lodge their cattle Jg£ there : and indeed it is almoft wholly filled up with JpF land and dung. The Tides of this temple are not clofed. The colonnade AND NUBIA. 39 colonnade which is there, is entirely open, and ferves fometimes as a pafiage. I received this information from the fame perfon that I mentioned above, and who had been upon the fpot the year preceding. There is, near Gau Scherkie, a califch, which, runs on the north fide. It does not appear, how- ever, to advance further than half a league within land, probably becaufe it has been neglected. It was bordered on each fide with a bank of free Hones ; but thefe banks are almoft demolifhed by the Nile, which, has carried away the greateft part of them. On the other fide of the river, we find fucceffively Gau Ell Gerbie, Mefchte , Scbachtura , Scbecb Seinetdien , and Benge ; five villages that have nothing lingular, except that the third, and the fifth, are a little retired within land. As foon as you have palled this, you get before T’agta^ a town of an handfome appearance,, fituated on the weft of the river and accompanied with mofques. We left it at four o’clock in the after- noon, and at the diftance nearly of a league, we reached, on the fame fide. Sou Ama , a village, where begins on the weft of the Nile the territpry of the prince of Achmiin, as Rejeyna , '.another village, that is oppofite, makes the beginning of die fame territcry on the eaft fide of the river. I have given a view of Rejeyna. This village is fituated at the foot of the mountains of the greateft Theba’is s which is t .. reafon that its foil is not very fertile. The few land , that they cultivate there are parched. In fome pla . ces, however, the palm trees appear there riling of the fand. The greateft ornament of this place is owing to its pigeon -houfes, which at a diftartce make a very pretty appearance. Its Inhabitants fubv fill principally on the navigation they follow on v thd$ Nile, in their barques ; for they have a very great! number of them. Befides, they have the reputation,, TV , -i 40 TRAVELS IN EGYPT of being extremely wicked. They often rebel againft their Emir, who is the prince of Achmiin. At feven in '$e evening we paired before T ’aberbuur , a village to the eaftof the Nile, and afterwards before Maraga , a pretty town, on the weft of the river, fitu- ated in a delightful plain, where they reap the beft wheat of all Egypt ; but the lands about it fuffer a great deal from the inundations of the Nile, which every year carries away fomething. When we had doubled the point, about four leagues in extent, formed by the Ihore of the Nile, which makes an elbow towards Maraga, we advanced thro’ a like fpace to an ifland, named Tfchiejiret Schen- doviib •, it may be a fmall league in length ; and at about the like diftance from the weftern fhore of the river, we difcover within land, the village of Gilfan. The Nile makes in this place a fecond elbow, a little lefs, however, than the preceding ; and it makes again a third, oppofite the village of Subaedfch , fituated to the weft of the river ; and above which there is a grand califch, that bears the name Ell Suhaedfchia , and which runs from call to weft. Almost oppofite to Shuaedfch, we fee Schecb Haridi , a place famous for the tomb of a pretended Turkifti faint. This tomb is in the form of & little cupola, raifed above the mountain. Thev make, in the country, too much noife about the miracles of this faint to pals them over in filence. informed myfelf about them with as much care as I >ffould ; and I am going to mention what they rela- ted to me. - The Arabs affirm, that fchech Haridi, having idled in this place, was buried here •, and that God, Ey a particular grace, converted him into a lerpenr, that never dies, and who procures the healing of dif- ■eafes, and beftows favours on all thofe that implore his aid, and offer him facrinces.' 1 — ■ I » I ■ 11^ —* —■ — — ■ ■ ■ I — II ■ ■■ ■ ^ w d The folly cf this ftory is glaring a: fixii fight to the reader, on mmL. It AND NUBIA. 4i It appears, however, that this miraculous ferpent makes fome diftindtion of perfons. He is much more propitious towards the great If -ds, than towards the inferior people. If a fchech .j attacked with any diforder, the ferpent has the complaifance to let him- felf be carried to his houfe; whereas for the common people it is neceffary, that the patient fhould fhew a defire of his vifiting him, and make a vow to recom- penfe him for his trouble. And even in that cafe he does not go out, without a particular ceremony. It is abfolutely requifite, that a fpotlefs virgin fhould be commiflioned with the embaffy ; for the virtue of the fair fex alone has any influence over him ; and if that of the ambaflfadrefs has been the leaft fullied, he would be inexorable. As foon as Ihe comes into his prefence, flie makes him a compliment, and intreats him, with the mofl humble fubmiflion, to vouchfafe to let himfelf be carried to the perfon who wants his afiiftance. The ferpent, who can refufe nothing to the virtue of the fair fex, begins at firft with moving his tail,, and makes fome leaps. The virgin then redoubles her in- treaties, and makes him new follicitations. At length the ferpent leaps upon her neck, places himfelf in her bofom, and there keeps himfelf very quiet *, whilfbhe is carried in ftate, with great hallows and huzzas, to the houfe of the perfon who has requefted him. No fooner is he arrived thither, than the patient begins to find himfelf relieved. This miraculou phyfician does not withdraw for all that. He account of its novelty, aud becaufe it has not the prejudices of edu^ cation in its favour : but in reality is it more abfurd than the vulg belief amongft the Romans, attefted by very credible authors, 4Lscui,apius entering into a ferpent, and, under that form, bein brought by a folemn embaffy to Rome, and curing a peftilence ? We read in hiftory, and may fee it verified every day, that the moll abfurd ftories have become religious tenets, in defence of which mankind are ready to cut one anothers throats, and have deluged' the world with blood. 42 TRAVELS IN EGYPT very defirous to remain Tome hours with the patient, provided that, during the whole time, they take care to regale his priefts, or his faints, who never quit him. All this goes on marveloufty well, in cafe that no- difbeliever. Or Chriftian, come in the interim. His prefence would difturb the feaft. The ferpent, who would perceive him, would immediately difappear. In vain would you fearch for him he is no where to be found. Should he have been carried to the other fiddof the Nile, he would be able to return invifibly to the tomb, which is his ordinary retreat. The Arabs dare moreover to affert, that, if this ferpent was cut in pieces, the parts w'ould join again upon the fpot, and that this attempt upon his life touldnot put an end to it, fince it was deftined to be immortal. The Chriftians of the country, who think them- . felves more wife than the Arabs, reafon very differ- ently upon this fubjedt. They decide the cafe accor- ding to the fpirit of their religion. They believe, very pieufly, that this pretended faint is the Devil himfelf, who, by a juft judgment of God, has th© power to miflead this blind and ignorant people ; and what confirms them ftill more in this belief is, that they have amongft them a tradition, that it was to this place the angel Raphael banifhed the Devil Ajmodi , which is mentioned in the book of Tcbit> chap. viii. ver. 3. For my part, I believe, that both the Arabs and Chriftians offend againft the rules of reafon. Before we confider a thing as miraculous or fupernatural, it it is neceffary to examine die capital point, which is to know whether the fadl be real •, whether the cir- cumftances are fuch as they are given out to be y and "whether fraud has not a great fhare in it. I agree that the ferpent is there ; it cannot be de- nied. Blit is he immortal ? This is what I fhould be very cautious of granting. He dies, undoubtedly, like AND NUBIA. 43 like other ferpents ; and the prielts who ferve him, and draw a profit from him, have the artifice to fub- ftitute another of the fame kind, when he happens to fail them. In the delicacy, that is attributed to this animal, of being unwilling to be touched by any but a virgin, and of not ftirring from his place, if her virtue has received the leaft taint, I perceive nothing fuperna- tural in it. Whoever has feen the mountebanks, that play every day fuch tricks in the great fquare, which is before the caftle of Cairo, muft have been ftruck with things much more remarkable than this. Is there any thing more eafy than to make a ferpent tamed c obey certain figns ; and as to the virginity of their ambafladrefs, they are always lure of not being deceived in that •, fince they chufe her fo young, that Ihe is fafe from all fufpicion. Befides, it is known that ferpents are attracted by certain odours and herbs. The girl might have been rubbed with them ; they might have prepared her by baths : At leaft Ihe is adorned with chaplets, and garlands of flowers, and herbs, wherein they take care not to forget Inch as are capable of making an impreftion upon the ferpent. If it be afked, how it is poflible, that he fliouid difappear from the fight of fo many people, and f*et back to his tomb, even tho’ he has the Nile to pals? I anfwer, that this is no more difficult than the reft It is fufficient to conceive that thefe priefts, or faints, who ferve the ferpent, and accompany him, are excel- lent jugglers; and there will be no difficulty in con- ceiving that they are capable of filching aw ay the ferpent, in the prefence of a great number of fpedtators without the moft attentive and quickeft-fighted being able to perceive it. Their Legerdemain being thus c Pausanias Jays, “ That all the dragons or ferpents are confe- crated to^Escur apius, but principally thofe of a certain fpecies, tha are of a brownifh colour, who let themfelves be tamed, and air found only in the territory of Epidaurus. played. 4 4 TRAVELS IN EGYPT played, they feign to follow their faint, return back to his tomb, with a crowd of people, who, out of refpect, dare not approach before the priefts have en- tered, and replaced, as they think proper, the ferpenf in his tomb. To cut the ferpent in pieces, and to fee the parts join again, would be an inconteftable proof of its immortality. But they were never to be brought to that ; and when the emir of Achmiin ordered them one day to make thistryal in his prefence, the priefts excufed theml'elves from the experiment. And they will never be brought to that extremity. I am not at all furprized to fee Arabs and Chriftian Copti run blindfold into a pious fraud, deftitute of all probability. Their mutual ignorance makes them give into the fnare ; but what I can fcarcely pardon, is, that people of good underftanding, and Who would be thought incapable of being impofed on in this article, have not forborn to believe, that there was fame myftery in fo ridiculous a fable. Monday, 2 d of December. We found ourfelves, in the morning, between Scfrecb Flaeck , a village on the eaftern border of the Nile, and a Copti convent called Deir Ell Abbiat , on the weft of the river ; and at about a league within land. Some perfons of our company, that had been formerly to fee this convent, told us, that they had found there a crofs, which was a relick of an ancient church built under the invocation of St. Helena. In continuing our rout, we faw at our right Barajbtira , a village, where there is a mofque, and further on we faw two other villages, namely Bibar r upon the eaftern fhore of the nile, and Ell Sauvie > • upon the weftern fhore. The wind was favourable but the elbows, that the Nile makes, obliged us often to have recourfe to the cord, to make the barque advance AND NUBIA. 45 advance and be able to arrive at Achmiin. This town, lituated on the eaftern fhore of the Nile, is the refi- dence of the prince of the fame name. It is large, and is adorned with feveral mofques. The Copti have there a convent, and the fathers de ■propaganda jide an hofpital. Opposite to this town is that of Mefchit , lituated on the weftern Ihore of the river. We arrived there at night, and we faftened our barque to land, becaufe our defign was to flop there fome time. All the barques, that come from Cairo, in order to go to the cataradl ; as likewife thofe that come from the catarad with a defign of going to Cairo, ftop here, to take in provifion of bread and other things, of which they have need. It is in effed the moft convenient place for that purpofe •, for this town lies at half way, and all things are fold there very cheap. Without the town there was a pretty large en- campment by the bey of Girge, who was going to vifit his territories. Wherever he flops, the adjacent places are obliged to furnifh him with a certain quantity of bread, and other provifions j and in order that one place might not be more burthened than another, they have fixed the days that he may con- tinue in each place. He does not return to Girge till towards the end of December ; and even then he is obliged to encamp without the town ; for though it be his refidence, it is not permitted him to con- tinue there longer than three or four months every year. His tent was diftinguifhed from the others by forty lanthorns fufpended before it, in form of checker work. There were among us fome perfons, who had letters of recommendation to prefent to him ; but they did not make ufe of them, becaufe we had no want of any thing, and we were informed that he was to depart the next day. Tuesday 4<5 TRAVELS IN EGYPT Tuesday, 3 d of December. We remained all that day at MefTchie. Ourreys went thither, as l'oon as it was light, to get fome bread made for himfdf and his crew. We took care likewife to provide ourfelves with fome, becaufe our provifion of bifcuit began to fall fhort. One does not find bread ready made. When you would have any, it is necefiary to take this method, namely, to purchafe corn at the bazar, or market , and to fend it to a horfe mill, to get it ground. If this mill cannot difpatch it faft enough, becaufe it is already engaged to grind other corn, you fend it by bulhels to private houfes, where they grind it by hand mills, with which almoft every houfe is provided. After having taken away your meal, you give it to certain women, whofe bufinefs it is, and they take care to lift it and make bread of it. They difpatch it very quickly, though their bake-houfe is not the molt commodious, nor. in the belt order. Their ovens particularly are very fmall, built of mortar, and heated with ftraw alone. This .does not hinder them from making pretty good bread, though in fomewhat an aukward manner: andJindced the ihape of their loaves is not very regular. They keep the dough very moift, and you never complain that the bread is too much burnt. It fucceeds very well when it is in the form of cakes •, and it is a tolerable good food, when it is new ; but it is good for nothing any longer than a day after that you muft have a good appetite to eat it with rehfh. I went to fee the bazar •, and I found it better furnifhed than thofe that I had hitherto met with elfewhere. In effedt the ordinary arrival of the barques contributes to render MeiTchie a place of trade. They bring thither, every market day, com- r mbdities from .all the neighbouring places, becaufe they are conftantly fure of a fale. By this means all things AND NUBIA. 47 things there are very reafonable. We had a fucking calf of a buffalo for forty parats ; hens for two parats a-piece •, and fo with regard to the reft. This place is alfo famous for a fort of fweetmeat, that they make in great abundance, and which the T urks and Arabs are very fond of on account of its fweetneft. As I was walking in the bazar, I met with two of their pretended faints, whom the market had drawn thither. They were entirely naked, and ran like mad men through the ftreets, fhaking their heads, and crying out with all their might. A courtezan was come thither likewife, to embellifh the feftival with her prefence. She had her face unveiled, as likewife her bofom, and her fhift was white ; whereas that of other women is blue. Her head, her neck, her arms, and legs, were adorned with abundance of trinkets -, but all thefe cmbelliftiments did not cha- racfterile her fo well, as her impudent air,andlalciviOus geftures. One would think, that this fort of perfons muft, in all countries have acommonmark to diftin- guifhthem. This lady however hacLan extraordinary one, which was, that Ihe infinitely exceeded all others in ugiinefs Before I quit Mefchie, it is neceflary to fay in its praife, that it has very fine pigeon-houfes, and that they are in very great abundance. It is likewife accompanied with a mofque; and we fee there a very .V**. large church-yard, where one may remark the different monuments, with which they honour the memory of the dead. It owes this laft diftin&ion to >-l. the height of its fituation which is the reafon that )' they bring thither the dead of all the neighbouring places, that they may not be expoled to the annua] inundation of the Nile. The Chnftian Copti, as alfo Xhe profelytes de propaganda, have in this town, and likewife through all the extent of the ftates of the ^ emir of Achmiin, very great privileges. They are ' not 48 TRAVELS IN EGYPT, not afraid here to ftrike a Mufiulman ; whereas in other quarters, as foon as they are gone from hence, they run a rilque of being murdered. The two days that we flopped at Mechies, we faw a great number of barques arrive there. They came thither with the fame intention as we ; that is to fay, to get in provifions. Wednesday, 4 th ofDECEMBER. Our provifions being got, we fet fail about eight o’clock in the morning ; and as foon reached to two villages which are to the well of the Nile ; the one named Gharafee ; the other called Ell Haigua. But this lalt is pretty near a league within land. We palfed afterwards between four other villages, namely, Galefmund> and Tug , both to the well of the Nile. The two others fituated to the eall of the liveware named Ell Afauvie , and Ell Hauvie it is a little above this lalt village, that the eallern part of the ftates of the prince of Achmiin terminates. We had afterwards to our right the village of Ajfcerat and afterwards that of Ell Ghoraen , above which the wellern part of the Hates of the fame prince terminates. Directly oppolite Ell Ghoraen^ we perceive Deir Melac , where the Copti have a convent \ and where there is a burial-place for the Chrillians of Girge. At length we found ourfelves between two other places, of which the firll is nothing but a village called S charaque. It rs however pretty famous, becaufe it commonly gives a fecure retreat to the Turkilh malecontents of the goverment, or to fuch as have other reafons for retiring thither. The Arabs, who dwell there, maintain fo well their liberty, that they pay no tax but by their fchech. There are in the neighbourhood of Scharaque divers grottos AND NUBIA. 49 in the mountains, but it was not permitted me to go and fee them. The other place that we had at our right was Girge , or Tfchirfche. I landed to fee this city, which may pafs for a large one : and indeed it is the refi- dence of the bey, or governor of the Upper Egypt, of which it is the capital. The Turks have there feveral mofques. It is the fee of a Copti bifhop ; and the fathers de propaganda have an hofpital, in which they maintain themfelves by their praftice of phyfic, that renders them neceffary to the Turks. This does not fecure them, however, from being expofed to continual oppreffions, and fometimes to real perfecutions. It mull be obferved, that though Girge bearsythe title of capital of the Turks in the Upper Egypt, it is, in fome meafure, the bounds of their dominion. If you go higher up, you perceive that their pc%er is on a very weak foundation. The Arabs there do not fear to give, openly, their protection to thofe who have offended the Turkifh government. H — The continuation of the voyage oEthe author, from Girge to EssuaeW V/ Thursday, 5 :h of December. E had failed with a favourable wind, on the** 4 th in the evening, at our departure from : Girge ; but a calm came on in the night ; and we , took the opportunity to land fome of our people, to whom wc gave orders to go and feek for wood, and to take care to join us again, at Bagjura, which might be ten leagues higher. We continuing our voyage, as much as the flacknefs of the wind would ' permit, faw on our left the mountains called Scherck Uladiachcbia : They begin at Scharaque to approach Vol. II. E quite 50 TRAVELS IN EGYPT, quite to the border of the Nile. They occupy a vaft extent of country, independent of the Turks, and which is governed by the chiefs of the Arabs, who are its fovereigns j infomuch that they pay tribute to no one. If any malecontent of Cairo, or of any other places of Egypt, take refuge amongft thefe Arabs, he there finds a fure protection •, for no one would dare to go, and fearch for him, in this quarter, where the Turks themfelves are afraid even to go on fhore. Ov our right, we palled by two villages Nejlet Affckfrify and Sau-Adne. Thefe two villages are very little confiderable. Afterwards we got to Bardis , a town, which has a pretty appearance. It is adorned with a mofque •, and it has, to the fouth, a califch, which advances a good way within land, and goes to Barafbura, to Ell Turaet, and to Ell Kebira, &c. \V>e had likewife on our right Ell-Magafcb , Belli- eneJ Bennicr-Akaep , Schecb Bereecb , Scbenine> and Sambuud. Thefe are fo many villages, of which the l^ft is near a league from the border of the Nile. Belliene was fAnerly a town, that made fome figure, and which haJ^ mofque ; but it is at prefent entirely On the otherilde of the river, almoft oppofite to Samhuud, wejfaw Ell-Bellabiifch , a mere village, above which we^lfind the ifland Gicfirct-Abdelkadir : It may have two leagues in length, and lies north and fouth. We remarked there a village, oppofite which there is another named Nerarnifcb •, it is fituated on the eaftern fhore of the Nile. Directly oppofite the fouthern point of Giefiret- Abdelkadir are two other villages, Bagartes , and BeniberJW. The firft is fituated upon the weftern fhore of the river ; the fecond upon the eaftern fhore. After having pafied, with a good deal of diffi- culty, Beniberfa, on account of the banks of land, which were very high at this feafon, we faw upon AND NUBIA. 51 our left Ell-Umbiir , a village accompanied with a mofque ; and in purfuing our voyage, we perceived four other villages, namely Scbechraebadir, and Ell Gouafa , fituated alfo to the eaft of the river, and Alkilluug and Sauaggel , both to the weft. A little higher, and on the- fame fide, is the village called Sagh Ell Bagjura. Between this village and that of Sauaggel, there is a califch, named Maharakka, and clofe to Sagh Ell Bagjura we find the town itfelf of Bagjura. This town, fituated at a little diftance from the border of the Nile, is pretty large, which is ow- ing in a great meafure to the nearnefs of the califch of Maharakka ; and it has a mofque. Our people joined us again at Bagjura, and brought us fome wood ; which gave us a good deal of pleafure, be- caufe we had a fcarcity of it. At the time we w£re ac Bagjura, fifteen janifiaries went to our barque* and demanded a paflage in it. The reys, however, refufed it them, alledging, that by the agreement he ,had made with the Franks, who had hired him, it 'was not permitted him to take any one finto the venfel, without their confent. The janifiaries laughed at this anfwer, and faid that they were going 1 to feek for their clothes ; and that if admittance into the barque was refufed them, they would enter it by force. The reys informed me of it, as foon as we were arrived, and we made him immediately put off from Ihore. By this means, we preferved ourfelves, without doubt, from very bad company j and perhaps avoided fome fatal accidents. Friday, 6 th of December. We failed the whole night, and palled firft Giefiret Nejagheye This ifland, where there is a village, may have three fourths of a league in length. It is fitu- ated opofite to Attariff, a village, upon the eaftern Ihore of the Nile, and where begin the mountains of E 2 ’Tfchibel $2 TRAVELS IN EGYPT ‘Tfchibcl Monna. Oppofite the fame ifland Giefirec Nejagheye, we perceived to the weft of the river, but a good league within land the town of Farfiuut ; it has a mofque, and the million de propaganda main- tains there an hofpital. We had afterwards, on our left, two villages, Ellakluraes , and Selemie . They are oppofite to two others, named Dirp-, and Hau. In the morning we found ourfelves before Schaurie , another village, to the weft of the Nile. As we were becalmed, I pro- pofed to myfelf to take advantage of it, by going to fee the ruins of a temple, which was reported to be near to Hau ; but I learned, that there was an aflem- bly held there at that time of three or four hundred of the pretended Mahometan faints •, and that this had drawn thither a great concourfe of people. Ther$ was no need of fuch crouds to hinder me from expofing myfelf there ; fo that I could not fatisfy my curiofity. A janiflary came to Schaurie, and begged of ids a paflage, which we granted him. He fled for having killed use of the fifteen janiflaries who wanted to feize his bJ'que. He was himfelf grievoufly wounded. He|k r as, however, a very brave fellow, v Xvho more thaiSfece did me a great deal of fervice, when the Arabs would have hindered me from look- ing on the antique ruins, which I thought proper to draw. The wind was then very favourable ; fo that we fet fail, and continued our voyage. The Nile is, in this quarter, very irregular, as well with refpetft to its bendings, as its breadth ; but with regard to its bot- tom, we found it very clear : fo that we pafled, with- out much difficulty, the four following villages, Ell Gaejfer , Gafjerufej cied, Jafenie , and Fau. Thefe four • r villages were to our left ; and we pafled at the fame timet- -on our right, three others, namely Reiefie , Nelzche Ell Abiid , and Dinedera. Near this lajft place we faw feverai crocodiles, extended upon banks of AND NUBIA. jj of fand, which the running off of the waters of theNile had left dry. We came up fucceflively to three other villages, fituated on the fame fide, and which are named Cajfarna , Senaefji , and Ell Wokf. The laft is. remarkable, becaufe it is in its neighbourhood that the territory of the Arabs called Hauara terminates; and the fecond has, oppofite to it, another village, named Difchne , or Dehefchne. This name, which fignifies admiration , was given it from hence, that the Arabs, who went up the Nile, here found them- l'elves at a lofs to know on which fide they fhould turn, when they would pray. They had regulated themfelves before, according to the courfe of the Nile, which they knew -to go from fouth to north. They had by confequence the riling fun to their left,, and the fetting fun to the right. But it was no more fo when they were in this place. The Nile here makes an elbow, which was the reafon that the^f faw the fun rife on the right F . They were in a great amazement at it ; which occafioned the name of Dehefchne , or admiration, to be given to thi placft. Near this fame place, we fawweveral floats, formed of earthen pots, tied tog ofiers. It is the ordinary manner od there need but two men to govern eight in the evening we were bee ceived that the current carried that we call anchor on the weltefn border of the river, where there runs a great barren plain, covered with fand, and fome brambles. ThSneareit village to us was Merafchdeh. We had oppofite, on the jj other fide of the Nile, the village of Sasida.. f It was probably owing to a like change of fituation by their migrations, that the Egyptians thought, according to Herodotus, that the fun had four times changed its rifing and fetting ; fo as to rife where it now fets, and to fet where it now rifes. Herodotus^ bookii. cap. 142. E 3 Saturday-* ler by twilled nveyance, and a float. AK- We per- ffcek wards ; fo 54 TRAVELS IN EGYPT Saturday, 7 th of December. Our people went, very early in the morning, afliore, to feek for fome game ; they found nothing but a prodigious quantity of fparrows. They fhot feveral of them, and picked up about a hundred amongft the brambles. They were, however, ex- tremely meager, and of a bitter tafle. At eight o’clock in the morning, we quitted this unfruitful land •, and we foon got to the village of Dar , fituated on the eaftern fhore of the Nile ; and ciiredtly oppofite is Magdfcher. This is a name that they give to a great road, which goes from eaft to well. y We palled afterwards on our left the village of Ell-Gpejfer •, after which we arrived before the town of Divider a. This town has a mofque, and it is without doubt the remains of the ancien Dentyra, which is mentioned by Strabo, Pliny and other autjiors 6 : I was told alfo, that there was ftill to be feen an ancienttemple •, and I had a great defire to go thither ; but I could not prevail upon our reys to put us alhore, twhich deprived me of a fine opportu- nity that I myid^rcgretted h E Pliny J peaks t been in his time , Jv probably defecting /, of old for their i tarries his defcript, gen? hominum infula, in qua hal Ityra as an ijland ; which it might very well have Nile is continually making new iflands, and mer. The inhabitants of Tentyra were famous fity and artifice in fubduing crocodiles: Pliny them to a perfedi extravagance. “ Quin et ;ic belluae adverfa in ipfo Nilo Tentyritx, ab appellata. Menfura eorum parva, fed prze- fentia animi in hoc tantura ufu mira. Terribilis haec contra fugi- cntes bellua eft, fugex contra infequentes : fed adverfum ire foli hi audent. Quin etiam flumini innatant : dorfoque equitantium modo Smpofiti, hian'tibus refupino capite ad morfum, addita in os dava, dextra ac l k “ At its entrance is a gate-way of various ftones, its length two hundred feet, and its height forty five cubits. Having palled 1 through that, you come to a fquare ftone periftyle, each fide being ’ * * four hundred feet. ’fHnftead of pillars it was fupported by figures of ‘V animals fixteen cubits in height, each cut out of a tingle ftone, and IQ carved in an antique manner. The whole roof twelve feet in ifi breadth, and confiding of a fingle ftone, was variegated with liars on a bluilh ground. After this periftyle, there was again another entrance, and a gate-way, in other refpedls refembling the former, but more abundantly wrought with all kinds of fculpturc. At this laft entrance there are three ftatues, all cut out of one entire ftone, the fyemtes ; and one of thefe ftatues in a fitting pollure, is the largeft of all in Egypt. Its foot in meafure exceeds feven cubits, The two others placed at its knees, the one on the right, the other on the left, are the reprefentations of the daughter and mother, in quity -ti/wi/ //;/-6z/ /////^ / * //a//. I. *" *!* '' d. /brfa/s C ' &r/<7nsrdy: a6v/?/u7/fcr$h extraordinary large, that, without hyperDole, a thoufand horfe might there draw up in battle array, which caufed me to wonder not a little.” ' 7 o TRAVELS IN EGYPT Their breafts and their legs are covered with abundance of Greek and Latin infcriptions, which have been engraven on them fince they were made, and in the time of the Romans. The back part of the Tides of the feats upon which they are fitting, are covered with hieroglyphical figures, which in general refemble one another very much, tho’ there is fome difference in the particular form of the characters. Befides that, there is on ea!^ fide a term. Thefe feats feem to be of an entire ftone, and made of the lame fort with the reft. They ap- pear however a little more brown, and harder. The two Ifiac figures which, as I have already remarked, adorn the extremity of the feats at each corner, appear whiter and of a finer grain than the reft •, which may give fufpicion, that tho’ they are adjufted in the ancient Egyptian tafte, they have however been placed there, long after the ftatues were ereCted. I have remarked, that the pedeftals are alfo more hard and brown than the feats. Their Inlcription confifts only in a Tingle line of hieroglyphical figures, - fpoilt by injury of time, and by the violence that has been done them. It does not appear to me, that the bodies of the ct^offal figures have fuffered any thing from the hands® men. All disfigured as they are, ^mi fee not in them the leaft bruife that is diftinguifh- - 'able; it is only the injury of time, which has rendered them deformed, and has deprived them of the parts which had any projefture. After having finifhed this defign, I approached nearer, in order to draw another more particular, which would reprefent one of the Tides of thefe caloftal figures, marked letters, with the hieroglyphics and the other ornaments. But whilft I was employed Without hatting recourfe to the tcjk-v:ajlers over the Ifraelites, to devils, and to conjurors ; 1 think thefe caves might eafly be fuppofed owing to the vafl quantity of materials t '-at tnuft have been drawn from thence, for fucb jlup a films works and buildings as have been mentioned before ■ cn AND NUBIA. yi on this work, I perceived that about fifty Arabs had furrounded us ; whereas at our arrival we had nor feen fo much as one, neither near nor at a diftance. At firft, however, they contented themfelves with fa- luting us, and in looking upon us with a fort of amazement. They drew the neareft to me ; and they were curious to fee, what I was doing. When they had paffed half an hour with us, looking upon us, they came at laft to demand the backfich , that is, to fay, money; but we thought it proper to refui'e them, becaule it might have occafioned bad confequences. Offended at this re- fufal, they began to grow infolent, and to make a violent noife. During that time, I kept myfelf quiet, continually employed on my defign. I left to the miffionary fathers the trouble of endeavouring to ap- peafe them, and to our fervants the liberty of returning their noife, in the beft manner they could. Thefe fervants were moreover lupported by the janiffary, who had good lungs, and a good ftick ; with which, however, he took great care not to ftrike any one. During this tumult, there came up a man on horfe-back ; he was preceded by another armed with a long pike. The firft, to whom the Arabs gave the title of fchech, approached usJ-and, with an air o^ authority, demanded of the Jew valet what we vfcre’ doing there, and who had given us permiffion to com thither? The Jew afked him inl’olently, in return, what was that to him, and who had given him per- miffion to afk fuch a queftion, with fo much boldnefs? By this means they were got to high words, and in an inftant all the company were engaged in fquabbling. Upon which the fchech declared to us, that if we did not go away immediately, he would drive us away by main force. At this menace the janiffary drew up clofe to him, and told him, by way of confidence, that he fhould take great care not to touch us, becaufe we were well provided with fire arms, and underftood perfectly how F 4 ta 72 TRAVELS IN EGYPT to manage them. He added, that it might eafily happen, if he did not retire immediately, fomeone of us might take it into his head to lire at him, which would certainly lay him dead on the fpot. Tmsferious difcourfe made the fchech thought- ful •, and as it happened, that one of our people knocked down, at that inftant, a little bird with a fowling piece, our gentleman appeared quite con- founded. He feemed, however, very foon to recover from his fright. He told us plainly, that if we did not go away, he would go and burn our barque, and pillage all that was there. Our janiflary could not digeft this menace. He judged that the fchech was not fo mifchievous as he would be thought to be. He put himfelf into a fu- gjous paflion, and fwore, that if he dared to attempt the leaft thing againft us, he would himl'elf be the man to kill him.iike a dog. TrfE fchech, at tHele word, began to fmile, wifhed us a good day, and withdrew, followed by all the Arabs. He left us, however, in an uncertainty, whether he would not go to the barque, or endeavour to cut off our return to it. Yet in the main we were well enough plea&d to find ourfelves delivered from ^fuch difagreeableSebmpany. 01 had, during' that time, finifhed the particular dignJ which reprelents a fide of the feat of one of the cololfil ftatups, (Plate V.) and I had drawn the infcriptions which are engraven on their legs ra . With regard to the defign, I have drawn it with all the ex- adtnefs that was poffible, in hopes that j;his fingle m The different readings of thefe infcriptions by Dr. Pococke and Mr. No.*.den, together with an explication of them, have been given in a very learned treatife, entitled, Carmina fepulchralia, (3 V. a 'niiro clarijfimo Johanne Henrico Leichio, Lipjire edit, anno , j 745, pag. 75. It is re-publilhed, together with feveral others, by dodor Pococke, anno 1752 They y?ry well defcrve the learned reader’s jieruiaJ, fide A N D N U B I A. 73 fide will be fufficient to give a juft idea of the others, which time and circumftances did not permit me to draw j for though the hieroglyphics there are diffe- rent in fome places, yet I have obferved in the gene- ral difpofition the fame arrangement. There is be- hind a kind of refting place, and before a term •, and befides the hieroglyphics, you fee ail'o upon the de- fign the two Ifiac figures, which I have mentioned above. As to what concerns the hieroglyphics in particu- lar, I fhall remark, that they are very neatly formed on equal floors, and very well preferved. The two figures that you fee at the bottom, are of a fize larger than natural. They feem to form a knot, and to obferve ftriddy the precepts, that hieroglyphics pre- fcribe. They are made in baJJ'o relievo , in fuch a manner, however, that the fummit of their heads has no more relief than the entirely fmooth furface of the flone. The little figures reprefented above the two Ifiac ftatues, are likewife in baffo relievo ; but they have not the appearance of an Egyptian work j and they are quite different from the reft. With regard to the infcriptions^hich have been engraven as teftimonies, that the voice of Memnon had been heard. I have copied them, fuch as thej| are upon the legs of the coloffal ftatue, marked let. b. But as I was obliged to take them in hafte, for fear of lofing too much time, I dare not aftljre the reader, that they are done with the utmoft exaftnefs, efpeci- ally with regard to the Greek infcriptions, for I do not underftand that language. I chufe, however, to give them, fuch as I have taken them on the fpot, rather than to hazard the making any corre&ions in in them fince. AN* 74 TRAVELS IN EGYPT g^>Bg”g2§8°!iz = oI* z ^Sgg^^gsg^gtjsai :iys§Ee!*l»gg t - 1 . w I i 1 > 2 ^o> S 5 >S° Ct> §®SM 3 IplB im §.§s> ffiM HI MWB PC^hSS >c «0 8°s § 8 * us > 13 SO *g §Ss »S Slg goo !>< S s |^ H 5 1 3 • * 2: ; • 3 ’ » co pips!'! O g „g^-« zg 03 ^ W< § 0 o ps g> 2 2 : 3 < T 03 « > z (— ( o o K <3 03 •U f* *73 1— 1 8 > > 2 oC <3 O 00 <3 03 psg Z 5 S" gilg H zs gpilSs gSiESSS SoS^sgs • s 5 : I g r 70 ^* • * * *-> 5 AND NUBIA. .75 We patted afterwards, to the ruins that are found on the north fide, and which are not far diftant from thefe coloffes. There is no doubt, but they are the remains of the palace of Memnont. I had already fketched them (Plate V.) but the more I confider- ed them, when near, the more they appeared to me to deferve a particular defign. I drew one in effect, and it is found in Plate VI. The reader may there remark, letter C, the portico of a temple, capable of giving a great idea of the Egyp- tian architecture. If it be examined a little, it is feen, that each column had, above its capital, little fquare ftones, which ferved as beams, upon which retted great blocks of ftone of which all the parts, that could be feen, are covered with hieroglyphics, and, for a greater luftre, are incruttated with the moft lively colours. Sometimes they are blocks of forty feet in length, and of two feet in thick nefs every way. Above thefe ftones, there are other large ones, placed crofs-ways, and jdined one to an- other as if they were floors *, and all that can b‘ tten of thefe ftones, in the roof, is likewife loaded with hieroglyphics. We obferve, in this edifice, two forts o f eoVtmns. That which is marked ( a ) is of the mol: beautifjol kind. Their thicknefs and folidity give teem, at aP diftance, a delightful appearance-, when you -ipn'-ol^' them, the hieroglyphics are agreeable to the figtht; and when you are quite near, their colours have a charming effeCt. This fort of painting has neither fhade nor degra- dation. The figures are incruttated like the '•y pliers on the dial plates of watches, wi'h this diftc'ence, that they cannot be detached. I mutt own. that this incruftated matter furpaffes n ftrengtb a-i^hat I have feen in this kind. It is fuperior to the efco and the mofaic work and indeed has die advant- age of lafting a longer time. It is Umething furpriz- ?6 TRAVELS IN EGYPT' ing to fee how gold, ultra marine, and divers other colours have prefer ved their luftre to the prelent age. Perhaps I fhall be alked, how all thefe lively colours could /often together ; but I own it is a queltion that 1 am unable to decide. I have remarked, however, that the hieroglyphics, employed in thefe buildings, have not the fame ap- pearance that other pieces more ancient have : neither is there all that juftnefs, which the Greeks and the Romans were accuftomed to give to their figures. You lee, in the infide, upon the weftern wall, as you go towards the north, three large figures, that have the defedt I have juft mentioned, if I am not deceived, they have an allufion in it to the fall of Adam and Eve. There is reprefented a green tree, to the right of (which is a man fitting, holding in his right hand fome inftrument, with which he feems willing to defend himfelf againft a little oval figure, covered with hieroglyphical characters, that a woman prefents to him, who is ftanding to the left of the tree, whilft with the other hand he accepts what is frefented to him. Behind the man appears a figure Landing, the head covered with a mitre, and who ftretches out a hand to him. I have examined the / rfcft, to fee if I could not difcover the feries of the hiftory ; but I faw nothing that appeared to have the rcaft relation to it. The greateft part of the figures refembled rather amorous devices, or reprefentations of fome heroical exploits. To return to the architecture of the edifice. I fhall mention that, on the eaft and weft fides there is a wall, whicn ferves as an inclofure •, and that on the north and fouth fides there are two colonades ; but the external columns are not fo high, nor fo well or- namented, as thofe of the middle. They have no ' capital. There is only contrived, on the top, a bulg- ing out, which produces nearly the fame effeCt as the great great end of a club. Both the one and the other are entirely covered with hieroglyphics. There mull have been twenty one columns on each fide j but there are no more than thirty two {landing ; and it is on the north fide they are wanting. Those of the middle, being the higheft, make the roof more elevated than the galleries. The reader fees, on the defign, no more than one. They have twenty four Danifh feet in circumference ", and a proportionate height. We fee not the pavement, becaufe it is covered with rubbifh, and three or four feet depth of fand. At fifty paces from this edifice, we find other re- mains of antiquity, which I have reprefented in the fame plate (letters D, E.) It feems to have been a gallery, that went round the court. Thefe ruins arefo much the more worthy of attention, as it appears that Philostratus has lpoken of them in what he has written of the temple of Memnon, i in the life of Apollonius. You fee there, under letter D, four pilafters, formed of divers pieces, all made of that fandy ftone which I mentioned above. Each pilafler is adorned with a term , the arms laid acrofs, and who holds in the right hand a kind of crook. The heads of them have been knocked off ; but there remains Hill on th £ ) fhoulders a part of the ordinary head drefs of tfie Egyptian figures. Above each /em'there is a kind of club. Three large blocks of done cover thefe four pilafters, which in the fame manner as the reft: are full of hieroglyphics •, but the time did not per- mit me to draw a particular defign of them. Under the letter E are marked four other piiafters. n The Danijh Foot is larger than the Englifij in the Proportion of 103 to 100. 7S TRAVELS IN EGYPT refembling thofe that have been juft defcribed, and whofe faces look towards thofe of the former. Behind the gallery there is a wall, marked letter F. It is very much ruined. We obferved however, that one end of this wall was joined at top to the co- lonade, by large ftones, fo that it was a walk, Ihel- tered from the rays of the fun. We perceived the fame thing in the ftone, marked letter £), and refting upon the four firft pilafters. The diftance between the pilafters, D and E is too large to have been covered. It follows from thence, that if it was the place where the ftatue of Mem non was placed, it muft have been uncovered and in open air ; which appears fo much the more probable, as it might, by that means, receive better the impreflion of the rays of the fun. Under the letter G is reprefented the fragment of a colofius thrown down and half buried. We fcarce difcover enough of it, to judge whether it has been fitting, and in the fame attitude as thofe that I have defcribed in Plate V. The upper part is wanting in this, and it appears that violence has been employed to feparate it : the marks of it are ft ill vifible. All the body of this colofius was of a fingle piece of black granite marble. M Its pedeftal is in fome meafure en- tire, and we fee on it fome hieroglyphics, fuch as Enives, femi-circl£s, and other figures. The reft of this colofius is fo disfigured and dif- membered, that it was not poflible for me to take an exadt meafure of it. I imagine, however, that its height muft be about twenty feet. All thefe marks feem to indicate, that it is here we muft feek for the vocal ftatue of Memnon, whichSTRABO, Pausani as, Pkilostratus, Lucian, Juvenal, Tacitus, and divers other ancient authors, Greek and Latin, have mentioned. Yet I am not prefumptuous enough to determine any thing about AND NUBIA. 79 it on my own judgment; I leave to others, more learned than I am, to pronounce on that point 0 As the greateft part of thofe authors relate, that the ftatue of Mem non gave a certain found at the rifing of the fun, I was curious to ftrike, with a key upon what remains of this colofifal figure ; but as the whole is folid, it does not give any more found than another block of granite, which is funk in the ground. The fepulchral urn, that is feen in the firft pyramid, tho* it refts entirely upon its bafe, founds however like a bell, but it muft be obferved that it has an hollow. p ° It is very remarkable, that neither Herodotus nor Diodo- rus have made any mention of this vocal ftatue of Memnon. Diodorus indeed mentions, in a paffage that I have tranflated from him above, that the three ftatues at the entrance of the fepulchre of Osmandyas were the work of Me/xror©- tb Suxeitb, but this is manifeftly a corrupt reading. Vide Wesselingii Edit. vol. i. pag. 56. " W lVhat gives the flory of this vocal ftatue them tnoft credit with me , is the authority of Tacitus, voho fays,' ** Ceterum Ger- manicus aliis quoque miraculis intendit animum, quorum praed- pua fuere Memnonis faxea effigies, ubi radiis fobs ifta eft vocalem fonum reddens ; disje&afque inter et vix pervias arenas inftar montiunt edu6be pyramedes.” But it is very pojjible that Tacitus might have given too great credit to the reports c/'Germanicus. Strabo’s account of it is this: / C TSSi' ••■';! II Ji.'i'j 2iy i ^4 /i’~" , ' T > lip^ AND NUBIA.' Si covered with a plain cornifh. Oppofite to the portal there is a pretty large opening, which has on each fide a piece of a wall, adorned wi^h hieroglyphics. This fquare building does not properly terminate at the portal, but at the walls of the ancient town, of which you (till fee fome remains to the north of the portal. The face of this fquare building is marked letter a , in order to diftingufh it from another wall, which is nearer to the portal by twenty paces, and makes another feparation. It is without a cornifh ; and the piece of wall, which is near its opening, .is likewife filled with hieroglyphics, and is feparated from it, as may be feen in the defign. In advancing a aozen paces further you arrive at two columns, compofed of divers great ftones. They have no hierolgyphics ; but their chanelled capitals are incruftated with colours, and have the prettied: effeCt in the world, tho* they have not the advantage of being made by the rules of any order of architecture. When you have pafled thefe columns, you have to climb over an abundance of large blocks of ftone, that embarrafs the paflage of the portal. They <(re , all filled with hieroglyphics ; and I obferved there, amongft others, four frizes of a greyifh ftone, with branched-work in bajfo relievo. They were lying on the ground amongft the other ruins ; and they c ltruck me the more as I perceived that it was a work > of the Romans, adorned, in the middle, with the heads of Diana and Bacchus ; and in the reft covered with foliages, of the vine and oak. I perceived nothing like it, neither nigh, norat a diftance •, and I faw no buildings, where thefe frizes could have been made ufe of. All the reft was of an Egyptian or an Arabian architecture-, the laft being-, as is well known, made of mud aud flime for it is thus that the Arabians build at prefent. The architrave of the portal has two frizes, the one over the other. It is fmooth, and forms a pretty t. V t ol. II. G ' large 82 TRAVELS IN EGYPT large opening. But the frontifpiece is very much ruined. I difcovered there, however, the wings of a dragon, fuch as we fee in abundance of other edifices •, and I obferved likewife the remains of that fort of cartouch, or ornament fo familiar to the Egyptians. All this is in baJJ'o relievo , and incruftated with colours. Above this opening there is a little corona ; and all round the gate there is a large border, filled with hieroglyphics. With regard to the infide of the gate, it is covered with large blocks of ftone, which form an even roof, and adorned, in like manner, with hieroglyphics. I ought not to forget the great ftone, which is ex- tended upon the architrave. We know not the ufe .of it-, but it is entirely covered with hieroglyphics,, perfectly beautiful. When we had pafied through this gate, we meet with another, made in the fame manner. This leads to a third-, and perhaps there is a fourth ; but this is not eafy to be afeertained : The fecond fcarce affords you a free entrance ; and the third is fo filled up with rubbifh, and lying under ground, that your curiofity s muft terminate there. We returned, therefore, from thence to contem- plate the buildings, which are at the right hand of the portal,*'. Nothing is more magnificent; but un- happily they are inacceffible, on account of the ruins and rubbifti that flop up the paflages. At length we palled, in our return, through divers little villages, without meeting any one there who in- fulted us. They contented themfelves with wifhing us a good day. But when we arrived at the border of the Nile, we no longer found our barque there. The readaf will imagine that this muff give us great uneafinefs. Yet, as there had been no wind that day, we judged that it could not be far off, We continued, therefore, to march along- the border of the Nile, and in half an hour’s time we difcovered it. The AND NUBIA. 83 The reys then came out to meet us, with joy painted in his countenance. He congratulated us on our happy return ; and told us, that though he had navigated more than twenty years upon the Nile, he fliould never have ventured to land in this place ; the inhabitants had fuch a charafter of being villains. This is certain, that all the great city of Medinet Habu has been ruined, only on account of their obftinacy and rebellion. These people ocupy, at prefent r the grottos, which are feen in great numbers in the neighbouring moun- tains. They obey no one ; they are lodged fo high, that they difcover at a diftance if any one comes to attack them. Then, if they think themfelves ftrong enough, they defcend into the plain, to difpute the ground ; if not, they keep themfelves under fhelter in their grottos, or they retire deeper into the mountains, whither you would have no great defire to follow them. Our reys was willing to excufe himfelf by the ne T ceflity he was under of changing his place ; but his excufe was received for what it was worth; foi- we perceived very well, that fear, which he could not get rid of, had made him take this ftep^ In the mean time, I found myfelf extremely fa- > tigued with the march that I had made that day. It ' was very fevere, more efpecially becaufe the gro" 1 ''' 1 was throughout either rugged, or covered with fand. The great heat had likewife much contributed to the ■weaknefs I found in myfelf ; not to mention, that I was not yet well recovered from the diforder which t had at Cairo. I was feized the fame day with a great head-ach, and a violent fever-, infomuch, that I began to be apprehenfive of a relapfe. WH| Friday, 13 th of December." I had been very ill the whole night, but a great G 2 vom- s 4 TRAVELS IN EGYPT vomiting, which came on, carried off my fever. It left, however, a pain in my head and a great weak- nefs. As the calm continued, we were obliged tohave re- conrfe to the cord; and we left on our right the two villages Kurnabilal and ElUkalitn . W e reached towards the evening to the village of Nezletameris. It is on the fame fide, and we call anchor there, pretty near to Ell Tfcbelame. It is a pretty confiderable town, ac- companied with a molque, and which is near to Arment: this is at prefent nothing more than a mere village, but it was formerly a city named Hermonthis. We difcovered there fome antiquities ; but the weak- nefs I was in, did not permit me to go thither : Belides that, I ffiould have found a great deal of difficulty to perfuade our reys to Hop there. We faw, in advancing on, abundance of Arab cottages, difperfed in the country. Some of our people landed, in order to go to thofe that were nearefi: to the river, and to feek there for corn for our poultry ; ' but thefe Arabs are not accuftomed to lay in pro- visions. They live only from day to day ; and as they have fcarce any thing to eat, they have ftill lefs to fell. Our people fired that day upon feveral crocodiles, without killing any one. The greateft part of thefe animals did not permit themfelves to be approached. They darted themfelves into the water, before you could get within gun-ffiot of them. Saturday, 14 th of December. We had no wind, fo that we were obliged to have recourfe again to the cord, and it was by this means that we advanced, from Arment, quite to Ell Retfe- gnet, a village fituated on the fame fide. The ground that Ives between thefe two villages, and which may be AND NUBIA. 85 be a league and half in extent, is full of ancient ruins that are extremely remarkable. In continuing our voyage, we faw fucceffively upon the eaftern lhore of the Nile five villages, namely Hambdie, Madfchergarona, Tot , formerly Typbium , Se- nemie , and Gibbaeg. The lad of thefe villages is fituated oppofite to that of Demegraed. This occu- pies the place of the ancient Crocodilopolis. We call anchor near it* and our people that landed in this place, killed there fome geefe of the Nile. I found myfelf, that day, pretty well recovered, excepting a little weaknefs which ftill continued. The lands about Damegraed appeared to have been neglected. They have not cultivated them fince the lalt inundation of the Nile j and the fun had fo parched them, that they were full of cracks, fo deep, that I could not reach the bottom with a zagaye, or Moorifh dart, of fix feet in length. They were, however, at this time, applying themfelves to cultivate them, and fix oxen yoked to a plough, had a great deal of difficulty to turn up the ground. C? I Sunday, 15 th of December. We had a favourably wind the whole night ; but our reys was not in a humour to fet fail. When day began to appear, our people landed to go a fhooting, and left me alone aboard with the Jew valet. There had been a great calm all the morning, but towards eight o’clock, a frefh wind having arifen, the reys was endeavouring to take advantage of it. The Jew valet would have a native of Barbary go and call our people ; he faid he would not. They came to words, difputed, and grew warm to fuch a degree, that the Barberin, who had a piece of wood in his hand, gave a blow with it upon the head ofl the Jew. The latter endeavoured to defend himfelf, but he was foon overpowered by other blows. I ran to his G 3 fuccoux 86 TRAVELS IN EGYPT fuccour with my piftol in my hand. The fight of this fire-arm immediately feparated the combatants. However, as fuch difputes might be attended with ill confequences, I ordered the reys to give notice to his Barberins, that if ever afterwards any of them dared to touch our people, he would run a rifque of being killed like a dog , this is the expreffion that is ufed in the country. The reys took the expreffion in its literal fenfe ; and my menace had fo good an effedl, that from that time there was no more any difpute. The conteft that had happened, made us lofe all thoughts of fetting fail. Our barque remained at anchor all the day, which I employed in looking at the adjacent places of Demegraed, without difcovering the leaf!: trace of the ancient Crocodilopolis , which, it is pretended, was fituated there. It was not till eight o’clock in the evening that we fet fail. Monday, i6 lh of December. We continued failing all the night; and the wind fo favourable, that at five o’clok in the morning we had already paffed Mahamiid , G ever a , and Ell E'fchibbelleen. Thefe are the three villages, fituated on the weftern fhore of the Nile. The lafl, however, is diftant from thence near half a league; and almoll oppofite, you fee Schagab , a mere village : as likewile Ell Kiman , which we left, fome time after, on our right. At a league higher we find Ass Fuun , a city of an handfome appearance, and which has a mofque. It is the capital of the valley of Mettani , and is fitua- ted a little within land, to the weft of the Nile. It has oppofite, on the eaftern fhore of the river, the x’illage of Magdfcheradome. At a league and a half higher we faw, on the fame fide of the Nile, a convent of Copti, F called Eeier Omali. And oppofite, a village named Ell Ardie. Afterwards at a good league and a half further, we perceived Helle , a village fituated AND NUBIA. 8 7 oppofite to Efnay. This is a great city, to the weft of the Nile, adorned with a mofque it is the refi- dence of an Arab fchech; and it is believed, that the ancient Latopclis was fituated in this place. One of our fathers, who underftood Arabic, went rfthore to carry to this fchech the letter of Osman bey. But he returned an hour after with the news, that the fchech, to whom the letter was addrefled, was dead; that his two fons were gone away from thence; that there was in the city only their cachef, who was likewife upon the point of fetting out to go and vifit fome of his demefnes ; and that it was not pofiible to fpeak to him, becaufe he was then with his women. There is in the middle of Efnay an ancient temple, clofed on three fides, and whofe front prefents to view co- lumns. They are in number twenty-four, and ap- pear very well preferved. A chanelled border runs a-top all round the edifice; but in the middle; on the fide which makes the front of the temple, they have contrived a cartouche, or ornament, fuch as we fee on all the principal gates of Egypt. 4 A semi corona borders the whole edifice, the fides of which are filled with hieroglyphical figures, that feem to be of the molt ancient kind ; and which ap- pear to have been executed in hafte, and by workmen that had too much bufinefs upon their hands. The columns fupport ftones placed crofiwife, and on which reft great tables, that form a roof, adorned in the fame manner as the fides with hieroglyphics. We eafily difcern, however, that the figures of the infide are by another hand, and executed with more attention than thofe that are feen on the outfide ; but none of thefe hieroglyphics are incruftated with co- lours. The columns are likewiie covered with hieroglyphical figures, which in fome places are very fmall, and very much crowded. It is to be remarked that, in all this temple, one capital of a column does not refemble another. G 4- Though $8 TRAVELS IN EGYPT Though the proportion is the fame, the ornaments are different. It is owing to the fmoak of fire formerly made there, that all the infide of this edifice is blackened, of which, however, all the parts are very well preserved, excepting the gate, and the interme- diate fpaces of the front columns •, but thefe are the effects of the Arabs, who wanted to fill up the void fpaces,, in otder to fhut up their cattle in this temple, which ferves at prefent for no other ufe. The reader will confult (plate VI.) where I have drawn this antiquity, although with a good deal of trouble, as well on account of a very painful abfcefs, which had befallen me, as by the diflurbance theArabs gave me. As I was perfedtly well acquainted with the jealoufy of thefe people j I had taken the precaution, at my entrance into the temple, to place myfelf behind a column, and to leave fome of our people at the gate ; but this was not fufficient to refcue me from thofe troublefome fellows. The Arabs had affembled in crouds, and the noife which they made was fo great, that I was obliged to difpatch my deftgn in hafte, for fear they fiiould come and feize me in the place where I had concealed myfelf. For which reafon I went off, and the mob afked immediately, what bufinefs I had to be writing in that place ? As they were well affured that no one had feen me, our people denied the faft i but the Arabs infilled on it; and one of them having brought at length as a proof a Turkilh inkhorn, that I had forgot to take away with me, our people appeared a little difconcerted at it. Upon this the Arabs became more infolent, and demanded to fee my papers ; but I perfifted in refu- sing it. | In thepnean time, we continued to haflen, by taking long ftrides, towards our barque, tho’ the croud, which continually thickened, followed us pretty clofe. At length they even began to throw at AND NUBIA. 89 at us clods of earth and {tones, but we feemed to take no notice of it. They were too much luperior in numbers, to come to an engagement with them. Befides, we had now got near to our barque: we called out to our people, and they brought us guns and piitols. This was a decifive turn : as foon as the Arabs faw the fire-arms in our hands, the greatefi: part of them took to their heels. The braveft of them {till kept at fome diftance, to fee what we fhould undertake but all our ambition was only to arrive fafe and found at our barque. As foon as we were goc thither we kept ourfeives quiet ; more efpe- ciaily myfelf, fo great a motion having caufed my abfcefs to break ; which however gave me great relief. There is fomething' very turprizing in this jealoufy, that the Turks and the Arabs {hew for their antiquities, whenever they fee a Arranger come to examine them. This' jealoufy is fo much the more furprizing, as you plainly perceive that they have no great value for them themlelves, and if they find too much difficulty to demoliffi them, they cover over the figures with mud and dirt, and employ thefe venerable monuments as {tails for their cattle, which fills them with ordure. But as far as one can comprehend, and as I have already infinuated in more than one place, the true caule of this jealoufy arifes from fuperftition, which runs through the country, and perfuades them, that all foreigners are fo many magicians, and that the defigns they draw are fo many talifmans. I Ought not to forget to mention, that the parats are not current at ElTenay, nor above it. They have for commerce nothing but bourbes, of which twelve make a parat, or fevillans that are taken in payment for an hundred parats a-piece. Another remark I have to make is, that there is nothing more fcarce here than wood. We wanted to purchafe fome 5 but we could get none for money. Lastly 9 o TRAVELS IN EGYPT Lastly I muft obferve, that the Arabs who dwell beyond Efienay, are called Ababuda. They are rebels^ and force is continually requifite for making them obey. In the evening, at fix o’clock, the cacheff fet out in a barque, accompanied with two others, laden with loldiers. His departure was honoured with the found of Tymbals, which he had on board his barque. Two hours after we fet fail, and we had a favourable wind. Tuesday, 17 th of December. We had fcarce failed half an hour, before the wind ceafed. This obliged us, after having pafied Dueeg, a village, a little above Efienay, and on the fame fide, to go afhore near to Serniig, another village, fituated to the eaft of the Nile, and a little matter higher than that of Dueeg. We had no fooner fattened our barque, than one of thofe that had been laden with foldiers, came and placed itfelf quite clofe to us. This neighbourhood gave us fome uneafinefs. They are fo little difqiplined, and fo infolent, that there is no pleafure in having any thing to do with them. We took care to keep ourielves well upon our guard. Luckily the wind arofe in an hour’s time, and we quitted this place to purfue our voyage. In a fpace of four leagues, or thereabouts, we found but the three following villages, namely Gafcheile, Mejfau-vie , and Ell-Adeime. We left them all three on our right, with this difference, that the two firft are half a league diftant from the border of the Nile, and that the third is quite clofe. From- Damegraed quite to this place, and even a little higher, the places are very diftindtly fituated. They Tare commonly diftant from one another a league, or a league and half, and fometimes two leagues. We law afterwards Kellabie to our left, 'Kum- AND NUBIA. 91 Kutnbeer to our right, Scherauna to our left, and Tur- raeg to our right. We did not however make this voyage in a, con- tinued courfe. It was interrupted, becaufe we ftruck twice upon banks of fand ; and it required a great deal of time and labour to put us afloat' again. ^ * We faw afterwards Sibbaye , Ell-Ganaan , and Ell- Bejfalie , three villages fituated on the w r eftern fhore ; the Jait is however a little higher than Ell-Auvanie , which is on the eaftern fhore. Ell-Heiks is on the fame fide. This village is fituated at the foot of the mountains, which in this place approach fo near the river, that there remains only a little fpace of land cultivated. We continued failing the whole day-, fo that we paffed Saide and Ell-Kilg , which we left on our right ; Hellal , Ell-Kaep , and Attuaen,v/eve. all three on our left. We approached afterwards to Edfu , a city fituated to the weft; of the Nile. It is the an- cient Apollinopolis-y and I have given a view of it. (Plate VI.) We find in this city a confiderable monument of antiquity, and which is perfectly well preferved. The Turks have made a citadel of it, and fome pretend that it was built originally for a like purpofe; but, without defigning to offend any one, I find that this edifice has rather the refemblance of a gate than citadel. There runs, all round, a femi-circular corona , fuch as we fee commonly round the Egyptian build- ings. You fee no cornifh above the edifice; but perhaps it has been ruined, or has fallen down. The fabrick in general is very well defigned, its fimplicity efpecially gives it a very pretty appearance. There are upon its faces three rows of hieroglyphical figures; and it looks as if they defigned to reprefent infants, whofe firature however furpaffes that of men in thefe modern times. The 92 TRAVELS IN EGYPT The fouth fide, and that of the north, fcarcedifFer in any thing, except that the former has feveral win- dows, of which the four lowermoft, made on each fide of the gate, are very high, and give a diagonal light, which falls obliquely. Above the gate, there is a cartouche, or ornament, fuch as thofe that we have already remarked in fome other edifices. I cannot boaft of having had the happinefs of feeing this antiquity in the infide. Perhaps they would not have permitted me ; this is certain, that I had not the opportunity of aficing permiflion, becaufe we did not land in this place ; we palled however near enough for my being able to take the defign of it. There is alfo at Edfu another antique monument, but it confifts only in the ruins of an ancient temple of Apollo i and of which the greateft part is buried under ground. The Arabs have made no fcruple of employing what they have been able to take away from fo refpedtable an edifice, in making fome vile pigeon-houfes. I have given in the fame (Plate VI.) the defign of thefe ruins. 4 In continuing our voyage, we palled before two villages fituated on the fame fide, namely Naggel- Akdeddein and Schech-l fchiberim. And we had on our left three others which are Ell-Behera , Redefie , and Ell-Buebb , or Seraik. There was formerly in this place a great number of Chriftians •, at prefent the village is almoft ruined. In going up higher, we reached to Seluah , a village on the eafbern Ihore of the Nile •, and fucceffively we palTed between four others, of which two, namely 1 Tfchibeka and Ell-Kdjcudfche are on the fame fide. The two others named Romadie and Ell-Hammaen are on the weftern Ihore. We were then very near to 'EJchabel EJfelJme >*, that is to fay, the chained mountain. The s Temple of Apollo. (Plate VI.) a The principal Entrance of the, Temple, b Ruins of the Temple, c fmail Canals. tradition AND NUBIA. 93 tradition in the country is, that they here barred the paflage of the Nile by means of a chain. This is certain, that the bed of the river is very narrow in this place, and that the mountain Tfchabel Effelfele to the eaft, and a rock fituated to the weft might, as they pretend, have ferved for that purpofe. I did not then make any great examination of this antiquity, becaufe it was eight o’clock in the evening, and the dulk hindered me from difcovering clearly the objects. But, on my return, I endeavoured to make amends-, and that I might not refume the fubjedt again, I (hall join here the remarks and the defigns that I made then. The firft objedt that (truck me, was that part of the mountain, where you may remark precifely the (tones to which the chain mentioned muft have been fattened, on each border of the Nile, whofe breadth is no more than a mufket (hot and a half. Besides the rock, you may remark a large mafs of granite, loaded with a grand infcription in hierogly- phical charadters, and you fee there alfo fome chapels formed in the rock, and fome rocks of granite. I thought my felf obliged to give, a view of thefe chapels, cut in the rock, and fituated near the (tone of the chain that the reader might have, by that means, a more diftindt idea of them, (Plate VII.) r In the neighbourhood, you difcover a great num- ber of grottos, by fo much the more remarkable, as their Tides are throughout covered with the mod beautiful hieroglyphics. With regard to the infides, there was not a fufficient day-light to diftingui(h the ^>jedts. The light entring only by the outlet of each grotto, I was greatly concerned at it, when at length I perceived an ' (Plate VII.) Gives a view of thefe chapels cut in the rock, near the chain-flone at Tlhibel EITelfele. a The cKsun-ftone. b Block of granite, with an infcnjijpn on the hieroglyphics c Chapels full of hieroglyphics. d (^ks of granite. opening 94 TRAVELS IN EGYPT. opening at top. Upon which I fet about making a fketch; but I was very loon difturbed in my work, by the alarm, that our people had taken, in feeing a croud of Arabs aflembling. You fee there four figures in haut relief , fitting, and in their natural fize; two of men, and two of women. The men, who are in the middle, have , their arms laid acrofs the breaft; and each woman takes hold of a man under the arm. I detefted, with reafon, the malice and fuperftition of the Arabs or Turks, who had ftrangely deformed thefe figures, particularly in the vilage On one fide of thefe figures is an hieroglyphical table, cut in baffo relievo , with a great deal of labour ; and what’gives it a great value is, that it is perfectly well preferred to the prefent time, though the rock, in which all thefe grottos are cut, confifts only of a yellowilh fandy ftone. It is probable, that the hieroglyphical table contains the epitaphs of thole perfons, whofe bodies have been inclofed in this grotto. We perceived, that the Nile refumed, a little above this place, its natural breadth; and we palfed fuc- celfively before two villages, the firll named Fatira ; the fecond, which is near a league above, called Ell Gliid. We palfed them both on our left; and opofite the laft, we had on our right that of Far is. Almoll immediately afterwards, we perceived an ifiand, fituated very near the eaftern border of the Nile. They call it Melia ; and oppofite we faw, on the weftern border of the river, the village Amungaer. The calm having feized us in this place, at two hours after it was night, we call anchor near a fecond ifiand, neighbouring to the former, and which lyes in the middle of the Nile. It’s name is Manforia. Wednesday, i 8 th of December. The ifiand where we call anchor, the preceding night AND NUBIA. 95 night, is not far diftant from the village of Bamban y fituated on the weftern border of the Nile, oppofite to that of Komombu ; which is on the eaftern border. I had a great defire to land at this laft village, in order to obferve the remains of antiquities that are ftill fubfifting there; but certain circumftances obliged me to fufpend my curiofity, till my return, when I fhould have the leifure to fatisfy myfelf. The principal antique monument in this place, is fituated behind a mountain of fand, and concealed, on another fide, by fome miferable cottages ; but all that does not hinder a curious traveller from being able to contemplate, with a great deal of fatisfadtion, thefe beautiful ruins. The building refts upon twenty-three columns, well wrought and adorned with hieroglyphics. The {tones that ferve to cover the top, are of a pro- digious fize ; and we fee clearly, that the architrave, which at prefent is fplit in two, was anciently of a fingle ftone. Under its cornifh we perceive the cartouche, or the ufual ornament of their gates ; and this cartouche is cut very neatly. All the Hones are full of hieroglyphics, in the fame manner as _thofe we have feen on the ruins of Medinet Habu. The columns have more than twenty-four feet in circumference, and are greater than thofe of Medinut Habu. It is pity, that this edifice cannot fubfift long ; as we may judge by the condition it is in at prefent. Two lides of it are but barely difcernible. The upper part is already covered with earth ; and the columns, as well as the reft of the building, are three quarters under ground. At about fifty paces from thence, we perceive, on the declivity of the mountain, anothent.antique monument, more than eighteen feet in height, with a niche regularly fquare in the middle, but wider at top 96 TRAVELS IN EGYPT top than at bottom. It’s Tides are fet thick with hieroglyphics, which are very much decayed towards the ground ; and the back part is almoft entirely hid under fand. All this edifice is built of large fquare blocks, of a whitifh ftone, which approaches very near to mar- ble. I cannot, however, determine the ufe of this monument, unlefs that it was formerly an altar, of which the table perhaps has been taken away, or may have fallen down amongft the ruins : perhaps likewife in the niche, which I have mentioned, there was an idol. The wind having rifen, at eight o’clock in the morning we fet fail, and after having palled the ifland of Ommulet , fituated almoft clofe to the weftern fhore of the Nile, and near to the village of Rakkaba , which is on the fame fide ; we perceived that of De- rail , fituated on the oppofite fide j and we approach- ed to Ell Schech Amer , a village at fome diftancc from the eaftern border of the Nile. We find there fome ruins, which at firft appeared to me confider- able •, but when I had examined them nearly, with a little attention, I remarked that they were only re- mains of a modern building. They are fituated amongft abundance of tombs of Mahometan faints, as they are called. As foon as we had fet fail again, we met with a fourth ifland named Gallagis ; and oppofite, on the weftern fhore, the village of Ell Kabunia. A fignal was made us there, to bring the barque to land, which our reys had no great inclination to obeyj but as he faw that they were taking up arms, he no longer refilled. The prince of the country was Ibrim, cacheff in Nubia ; and he had received at Girge the caffetan of the bey ; it is the only mark of refpedt, that they pay here to the Turkifh government. Forpe decides between the competitors, who fhall have the dignity - 9 and he that is fent Girge, muft abfolutely AND NUBIA. 97 abfolutely be veiled with the caffetan by the bey. Our' reys did not return under an hour, and told us that the cacheff had informed himfelf concerning us ; and that, upon his having heard, that we were under the protection of Osman bey, and that we had a defign of going quite to the fecond cataract, he had fent us the Salamalack , or good-day, by him We fent him fome bottles of roffoli 5 , fherbet, and fome tobacco. In purfuing afterwards our voyage, we pafled before the village of Ettuefa , and afterwards, before Girbe. Thefe two villages are fituated on the eafiern border of the Nile •, but the laft appears more fully in view. The ruins that are found there are diftin- guifhable by the great blocks of fquare Hones, which are not commonly made ufe of in the Turkifh buildings. We continued our voyage without Hopping, and we pafled by on our left firH four villages, namely Ganaek, Ell Akabbe , Abufebera , and Gaptara. Above this village, we fee the iHand Giefiret Beherif , fituated very near to the eafiern Ihore of the river ; and a little higher again, and on the fame fide, after having palfed the village of Ell Toff, or Teffel , we arrived at eight of the clock in the evening at Effuaen. We faft- ened our barque there, nigh to the citadel. The continuation of the author’s voyage from Es- . suaen to Deir or Derri. Thursday, 19 th of December. ^THE city of Efiuaen', fituated on the eafiern fliore A of the Nile, is not more confiderable than the 5 A very agreeable liquor compofed of brandy, fugar, cinnamon and feveral other things that are flattering to the tafte and cordial. The roffoli of Turin is the bell and moft famous. * EJJuaen is the ancient Sycne, which, according to Pliny, lies direflly under the tropic of cancer. H greatefi 98 TRAVELS IN EGYPT grcateft pare of the other cities of the Upper Egypt. It has, however, befides its mofques, a citadel, with an aga, whefe name at that time was Ibrahim. One thing diftinguifhes it greatly from the other places of the fame government, which is, that you fee not here, on the tops of houfes, thofe forts of dove cotes that, at a diftance, give the other towns fo agreeable an ap- pearance. But what renders this city more particularly remarkable is, that it is the place where begins, or rather, if you will, the place where ends the firft ca- tarad, marked by rocks of granite, which are feen in the middle of the Nile, before you arrive at them. Our reys, who was a janilfary, did not fail to go and acquaint the aga of our arrival, and to give him notice, at the fame time, that there were in his barque fome Franks, to whom Osman aga, the chief of the janif- faries at Grand Cairo, had given letters, which would be prefented to him. At eight of the clock in the morning, the aga fent to us two janiffaries, each with a ftaff in his hand; and they offered to condud us to the citadel. We went thither; and the aga, who was fick, received us lying upon the ground, and covered with an old Indian cloth. We prefented to him our letters, and made him underftand that our intention was to go “ Simili modo tradunt ir. Syene oppido, quod eft fupra Alexan- drians quinque millibus ftadiorum,- folftitii die medio nullam umbram jaci: puteumque ejus experiments gratia fattum, totum illuminari. Ex quo apparere, turn folem illi loco fupra verticem efl'e.” In allujion to which Lucan hat given it the epithet of Umbras nufquam fleftente Syene. Lib. ii. ver. 5S7. Pliny fays likewife, Drnkmis jEgypti efle incipit a fine AEthiopix Syene.” ‘This city is famous alfo for being the place to which Juvenai. was ban - iJJsecQ tender the pretence indeed of a military commifjim , when he was eighty years old, and died here. quite AND NUBIA. 99 quite to the fecond cataradl, which lurprized him greatly, and induced him to tell us, that the advice he had to give us was to confine our curiofity to the feeing the firlt cataract. This counfel was not to our relilh. We returned for anfwer, that we were determined to go on, unlefs he had a defign of putting a flop to us. “ I fhall rather, replied he , do all that is in my power to facili- tate your journey •, and you have nothing to do, but to get the neceflary preparations for fetting out on your expedition.” Upon that, he ordered coffee to be ferved us ; and after we had drank it, we took leave of him. When we were returned to our barque, there was nothing we were more folicitous about, than the making him a proper prefent. We fent him a fcarlet garment, a filk waiftcoat, two calks of fherbet, with ‘ fome bottles of ftrong liquors; and he appeared ex- tremely well fatisfied with them. We received in return a Iheep •, and in the afternoon, he fent us fome coffee aboard our barque. We were content, how- ever, with tailing it, becaufe it was boiled withfage; which was done probably to give it an higher flavour. We had already talked in the morning of the camels, the horfes and afles, that the aga was to furaifh us with for money, in order to carry us and our bag- gage to the port of the catara< 5 l. In the afternoon we lent to him to know, whether we might depend on all being ready for the next day morning. The an- fwer was, that he would negledl nothing in that refpedl, and that the letters of recommendation to the grandees of the country, through which we propofed to pafs, Ihould be ready. We had moreover petitioned,that he would let us be accompanied by fome one of his people, on condition of defraying him, and of making him alfo prefent. He offered us, for this purpofe, his own brother.* He H 2 fent 100 TRAVELS IN EGYPT fent him to us, to agree on the price; and we Toon came to an agreement. The aga treated us in a very civil manner; he had even offered us his houfe, which we did not think proper to accept of, becaule we depended on flaying before Effuaen no longer than till the next day : We fent him, therefore, again fome little prefents, with which he was extremly delighted ; and at the fame time we renewed our folicitations to him, not to forget the letters which he had promifed us. Upon which he fent us word, that he lliould already have written them, if he had not wanted paper ; th,at he had not fo much as a fheet remaining ; and that he entreated us to fend him fome. We were well provided with it ; fo that it was ealy for us to relieve him from this want. Friday, 20 ,h of December. In the morning, at eight o’clock, one of our fathers, who fpoke Arabic, waited on the aga, to haften our departure. Lie found that the aga had ■engaged our reys to convey us from the firft to the fccond cataradl, The bargain was made for twenty fevillans, befides fome fmall prefents. But the reyS required time for getting bread made for his crew. We were ourfelves likewile in want of bread : So that our departure rwas fixed for Sunday morning. These meafures being taken, I went to a little ifland, fituated in the neighbourhood of Effuaen, and very near the weftern fhore of the Nile. It is called Ell Sag . It is, without doubt, the fame as the ancients called by the name of the Elephantine ' 1 . It’s fouthern Dr. PocockE gives the following account of it. “ Opposite to Syeneis the ifland Elphantine, in which there was a city of that name. The ifland is about a mile long, and a quarter of a mile broad to the fouth, ending in a point at the north ; there was a temple to Cnuphis in this ifland, and a nilometer to meafure the rife of the Nile; on it are remains ef a fmall temple. Before the part tor AND NUBIA. part is mountainous and covered with ruins. There are, however, but very tew of thefe ruins that one can well diftinguilh, becaufe the reft are buried under- ground. I found there, amongft others, an ancient edifice (till Handing, though covered with earth at top, ,as well as one fide; and it deferved my giving myfelf the trouble to draw it. They call it the temple of the ferpent Cnuphis ; but, to judge of it by it’s appearance, it was rather a fepulchral monument, than a temple. (Plate V.) Be that as it will, it has an inclofure, forming all around a kind of cloyfter, fupported through its length by columns. At the four corners it has. a folid wall ; and in its breadth; you fee only a fingle column in the middle. This inclofure contains a grand apartment, which has two large gates ; the one to the fouth, the other to the north; and almoft all the infide is filled with ftones and earth. The walls, covered with hieroglyphics, are bedawbed with dirt v and blackened with the fmoak of fires, that the ftiep- herds have made there. We remark, on the weft fide, within that apart- ment, and precifely in the middle, a fquare table, quite plain, without any infeription. I imagined that there might be underneath an urn or mummy ; and I was temple is a flatue, fitting with the hands acrofs on, the breaft, being about eight feet high, with a iituus in each hand, which is particular. On the wall before the temple is a Greek infeription, which is defa- ced in many parts. In the middle of the ifland there are remains of one fide of a grand gate of red granite, finely adorned with hieroglyphics. The earth is raifed up very much about this gate, and all over the fouth end of the ifland, probably by the rubbifh of a town of the middle ages that might be on the ifland, as there is now a very fmall village on it. The fouth end of the ifland is high, being a rock of red granite, and on the eaft fide are great remains of a high wall, built by the water fide with windows onjt. It is very probable that all this part of the ifland was defended by fitch a wall againfl the violent current, at the time of the rife of the Nile.” Objewatiom an Egypt, pag. n 7. Hi very ioi TRAVELS IN EGPYT very much tempted to get this table lifted up ; but the fuperftition of the people, and that of the govern- ment likewife, do not permit it. A traveller Ihould think himfelf happy, if he can have the liberty to obferve thsfe ancient edifices in quiets he mult not attempt any thing further. I lhall never forget, that when we came to call anchor before Efluaen, the po- pulace ran in crowds, to fee, as they faid, the lorcerers experienced in the black art. ‘ he length of this building in the infide, is about eighty Danilh feet, and its breadth about twenty. The reader mull not expe£t more precife meafures ; for in taking an exaft menfuration, we fhould be too much in the fight of people, and run a rifque of being entirely deprived of the liberty to fee the antiquities. The reader may obferve, by the defign, that all this edifice is covered with hieroglyphics ; and they feem to be of the molt ancient fort. There' is, very near it, a kind of pedeftal, made of great blocks of a white ftonc, loaded with Greek infcriptions •, but I had not time to take copies of them": Upon quitting the illand of Ell Sag* I made a tour to the adjacent places, on the weft fide, to fee there the ruins of the ancient Syene, of which Strabo, Pliny, and o£her authors, Greek and Latin, have made mention. To fay the truth, however, the greateft part of thefe ruins appear of no great confe- quence. I lhall remark here, that you fee nothing but modern hiins, and an antique wall, built of great fquare Hones, which formerly ferved to keep up the w Dr. PocockE has given the Greek infcriptien, hut obferves, at the fame time, “ I was fo hurried in copying it, that though I did it with the utmoil exaCtnefs I jtould, yet it will be feen that it is very imper- fect, and feveral parts of it were defaced, however, I have given it •as I copied $. It is to be doubted, if the whole may not be two infcriptiorilu The inlcription leems to be of the time of Diocle- tian, whofe name often occurs in it; and fome expreflions give ground to conclude, that it related to fome bounds of the people of Elephantine.” Olfervations on Egypt, pag. 278. AND NUBIA. *103 earth of the ifland. There remain Bill fome marks of the Place where the ancient city flood. As to the reft, it is fo covered with earth, that there is nothing but rubbifh, from which in fome places, one would judge, that there were formerly magnificent buildings in this place. We difcover, indeed, here and there, though very confufedly, in places where the earth has mouldered away, fome colonnades, accompanied with tables, loaded with ancient Greek infcriptions. Thefe tables are of granite ; but the blocks, that were em- ployed for the buildings, are of a whitifh ftone, which relembles the ftone of Breme, though it is harder. It is full of little ifiands, or rocks of granite, with which the two borders of the Nile are likewife covered. You perceive a mofque half ruined ; and an old citadel, behind which is a little bay, that on the fouth fide has for its fupport a natural bank of great granite ftones, upon which are engraven dif- ferent hieroglyphics. In the VII th plate is reprefented the moft remark- able place. You obferve there under let. a. the angular ftone, which, befides fome hieroglyphics, has towards the bottom a fquare niche, with a kind of column in the middle, marked let. b. The mea- fures, which are cut in the ftones ofthis niche, made me conjecture, that the whole mighqar.ciently bede- figned to ferve as a mokkias, in order to know the increale and fall of the waters of the Nile. Upon this rock there are let. c. confiderable ruins •, but they are the ruins of modern edifices, d and « meafures engraven on the granit. I have drawn, under letter /, the ancient fupport of the bay, or bank, and upon one of the granite ftones, which ferve for a foundation, there are, letter g, two hieroglyphics, the only ones that I have per- ceived, on that fide, upon ftones of this kind. Letter h fhews the way that leads to the firft cataradt. Letter i other granite ftones full of hieroglyphics. H 4 A 104 TRAVELS IN EGYPT A valet, whom the aga had appointed to attend me, informed me, that what I law was a mere trifle, in comparifcn of what there was on the other fide of the river; and that if I would pafs over to it, I fhould find there an ancient itcy intire. “ There are, fays he, paintings, infcriptions, and mummies.” This infor- mation furprifed me extremely. I could not imagine what antiquities fo remarkable could be found in that place. But it was too late then to pafs over; and I propofed to myfelf to employ the next day in making it a vifit. Saturday, 2i ft of December. We had got in a good provifion of bread, which we did not obtain however without difficulty. It was requifite to purchafe the corn, and to diftribute it in different parts of the town, in order to get it ground by hand-mills. We had already found the fame diffi- culty in other Places ; but the further we advanc- ed, the greater it became; and we felt it ftill more, in proportion as we went up higher. Nothing was fo difficult as to procure ourfelves, for money, the very necefiaries of' life. Wood to burn particularly is, in thefe quarters, an inconceivable rarity. Whatever endeavours we fiad made to purchafe fome, v/e had not been able to get any. Luckily the aga fent us a piece of fycatilore wood. It was a real prefent, for which one of our fathers went to thank him, and carried him .in return fome trifles, which had their • value in thi#country. The olcTaga was fo touched with our gratitude, that to fhew how much he interefted himfelf for us, he exhorted the father to advance no further. tc You’ll be all deftroyed, fays he ; you are going not amongfl: men, but amongfl: lavage beafts. They would niurder a man for a parat : in what manner will they deal with you, who carry luch treafures ?” on a fTtoc/ AND NUBIA. io S The father anfwered him, That it did not depend upon him to ft ay, even though he had a mind for it. “ Well then, replied the aga, tell your companions fo from me, and divert them from the defign of going fur- ther.” They will not be prevailed upon , replied the father, they are not people likely to give over their dejign. Im-fchalla ! cried out the aga : here, take the letters that they have alked of me for the grandees. Let them go in God’s name ! But I am very forry that thofe fcoundrels Ihould get fo many fine things as you have with you.” The father made us a faithful recital of this dia- logue. But as no one amongft us was ignorant, that the Turks are extremely loath to permit ftran- gers to pafs beyond the firft cataradl, we thought that the defign of the aga was to imtimidate us ; and as we had received the reft of our bread, and pur- chafed all that we could for money, we fet every thing in order, and made up our packets, to be in a condition of going the next day, becaufethe aga had promifed to furnifh us with a fufficient number of camels, and other beafts of burden, to convey us to the cataradl. At the time that our people were* employed in packing up our baggag?, we had a viftt of a Maho- metan faint, who, with one hand played on a tam- bourin, and in the other held a little crooked ftaff, with which he touched all our coffers, and likewife our- felves, giving us a kind of benedidlion in his manm )( A dog, which belonged to one of our people, and whi^ the faint approached likewife to touch him in * turn with his ftaff, did not relifh this ceremony. He took this Mahometan benedidlion for a menace •, and to prevent the confequences of it, he flew at the throat of the faint, and pulled him to the ground. The faint fet up a roar and began to give us as many . curfes as he had given us benedidtions a* moment before •, in the mean time a croud of mob ran to us, and io6 TRAVELS IN EGYPT and every one offered to revenge the infult, done ct> their faint by infidels. To finifh this diverfion, which had like to have coft us dear, I fent to the faint our Jew valet with a couple of fevillans, which had their effeft. The faint withdrew from our barque, and carried away with him the mob, which he appeafed in the befl manner he could. I had an extreme defire of going to fee the anti- quities I had been told of ; but it was not poffible to find a canoe. The only one that there was in the town, and which belonged to our reys r had been fent fomewhere with fait. This unlucky accident morti- fied me extremely. But it was requifite to wait with patience till my return, when I fliall have the oppor- tunity of faying fomething of them. '\L The fon of the aga, who was commander and cuftom-houfe officer of the port of the cataradl, came ; to fee us, in the interim, with his companion. They / laid that they would accompany us themfelves quite ■ * to the cataradl, and that, agreeable to the orders of I the aga, they would take care that the cattle to ride * on fhould be ready for the next day. We gave them coffee, and i^He them prefents of fome fpices and Simday, 22 ' 1 of December. At ten o’cpck in the morning, the aga fent a uard of jaSHaries to our barque, in order that all ir baggagewnight be unladen infafety, and without confufion. He afterwards ordered thirteen camels to be brought us, three horfes, and as many affes as would be neceffary for carrying all our luggage. Notwithstanding the precaution of the aga, the throng of people was fo great, that we were employed more than two hours, before we could fet out upon our AND NUBIA. 107 our journey-, and tho’ afterwards the Ton of the aga, veiled with his caffetan, and his companion, both on horfeback, conducted our troop, and prevented difor- der, thepopulace, that had aflembled before our barque, did not ceafe to follow us quite the half of the way. W e took our rout to the eaft of the Nile, and after having gone acrofs a pretty large plain, bordered by rocks, we found a pals fo narrow, that a camel laden could fcarce get through it. We faw after that a Turkifh fortrefs, and we continued on by a very nar- row road, which ran along the fide of the cataract. At length, after two hours and a half’s march, we arrived at the haven of Morrada, or of the firft ca- tarafl. We there found the barque, that the aga had hired for us. It was much fmaller than the tormer, which w re had hired at Cairo. Yet when we had put our tent into it, it appeared commodious enough. We gave the fon of the aga and his companion feven fevillans, as well for the cuftom-houfe dues, as for the trouble they had taken in accompanying us. They would have been very willing to have had more ; for you rarely can content anyj one in this country ; but we feemed not to perceive their difcon- tent. With refpefl to the expence journey, it coft us ten parats for each camel, and three parats for each afs. I lhall obferve on this occ»on, that what they call here camels, are dromedarieslBrhich do not bear any great burthen -, and that you cannot put upon the afies more than one fack, theyiare fo final] and weak. Monday, 23 d of December. The fon of the aga came early in the morning to take leave of us ; and we fent back a janifiary, whom we had kept ever fince our arrival at Effuain. He ap- ioS TRAVELS IN EGYPT peared very well fatisfied with a fevillan tlrat we gave him. The reys, who had brought us from Cairo, came likewife to take leave ; and we made him a prefent of a green fuit of clothes, and of fome toys for his wife and children. With regard to the thirty fendouclis, that we had bargained to give him for our paflage, they had been advanced to him before we let out from Cairo. At the time we reckoned to fet fail, we were told that we mull not think of it for three or for days, be- caufe the rammadam v'as begun, and that the law of the prophet did not permit the undertaking any voyage during the firft days of that feftival. It was for this reafon that our new reys was not yet come on board. According to the agreement we had made with him, his barque, in the fame manner as that which \ we had hired at Cairo, was to take in nothing but our perfons and baggage ; but the like thing happened to us here as before at Cario. Notwithftanding the baigain, we faw that they were going to take aboard fome fait and corn, which had been brought to the port on the backs of camels. I made complaint of it to the pilot, who faid that his barque drawing no more than two feet water, inftead of three that it ought to dra^yuo be ballafted, it was proper to re- ceive thefe rn^rcnandifes. Upon that he obtained the permiliionof taking them on board. There refulted from it however at firft an inconvenience, which was, that our barque took in a great deal of water, be- caufe the upper part had been a long time expofed to the fun, and that the greateH part of the joints had opened. D ur ing the abode that we were obliged to make againft our inclination, I took a walk about the ad- jacent parts of the port. I had a defire of palling . through q narrow lane which led to the other fide of the mountain, that was to the fouth, and which was lb narrow that one man could fcarcely pafs a-breaft. I took. I took with me fome of our people ; but, as foon as we w'ere got to the entrance of the narrow lane, twenty Barbarins, with zagaies s in their hands, oppofed our palfage. It was necelfary for us to ftop, and I was the lefs urgent of having the liberty of palling, as our barque would foon bring us on that fide. I feigned therefore to be little folicitous o’f penetrating further, and I let them know fo by the Jew valet. This indifference was not what they wanted. They anfwered that I might pafs, and that they would conduct me themfelves, provided that I would give them the backficb ' ; but to convince them that I would not bribe them, I refufed their offer and re- turned back towfftds our barque. They followed me thither, and entreated me to go to the place that I had propofed to fee ; but I would not be perfuaded. They laid afterwards to one of our fathers, that they had refufed me paffage, becaufe there was abundance of treafure buried in a neighbouring ifland. Tuesday, 24 th of December. As foon as it was day there arrived an exprefs, dif- patched by the cacheff Ibrim. This exprefs brought a letter directed to our reys. It enjoined him not to fet out with his barque, or bring us any further. The cachcff added, that in a day’s time he fhould be at Effuaen, and that from thence he would give his orders relatively to us. The letter, however, accord- ing to the ufage of the Turks, was open i and as the reys was not on board, the pilot carried ’it to one of our fathers to read it. The contents of this letter furprized us extremely. We could not conceive the reafon of this prohibition. We propofed to one of the fathers to wait upon the s A fort of great dart that the Moors make ufe of for fighting. s It fignifies money. iro TRAVELS IN EGYPT aga, in order to confult him, and to agree with him on the manner in which we ffiould condinft ourfelves in this unfortunate affair. But the good father, who probably had been intimidated by the difcourfes that the aga had held with him, excufed himfelf, under pretence of being out of order. The other fathers offered to go, but, as they were not mafters of the language, I refolved to go thither myfelf with the Jew valet, whom I made take an oath that he would abfolutely fay nothing to the aga, but what I fhould fay, and that he would report to me faithfully the anfwers of this officer, in order that I might frame a judgment, whether they had a defign of extorting money from us, or of playing us fome fcrubby trick. This refolution being taken, I fent to get fome beaft to carry me, but it was not poffible to find any. I was obliged therefore to refolve on making the journey on foot, though the fun was already very high, and it was extremely hot. This did not hin- der me from fetting out on the expedition •, and I can fay, that I never made a more agreeable jaunt; for I could obferve at leifure the cataradb, and the rocks of granite that form it. When IJjwas entered upon the plain of fand, I flopped often t. to contemplate the hierolyphics that had been cut in the rock, and the fquare pieces of granite marble, that they had begun to cut, and of which a greWrpart remained without being finiffied. As 1 advanced in this great plain, I arrived at a burial place, extremely large, and full of ftones, that had all their infcriptions. I had taken it for a burial place of the Turks, w hen I paffed there for the firft time; but as I had more leifure to confider it, I re- marked very foon that it was of a quite different kind. The tombs, almoft all alike, had no conformity with thofe that I had been able to fee elfewhere; and I could not imagine who the perfons were, that had been interred in this place. I ordered our Jew valet, who II £ AND NUBIA. who could read the Turkifh and Arabic languages, to examine whether he could not decypher fome in- fcription. His anfwer was, that there was not a letter, that refembled thofe of the Turks, or the Arabians, and that he comprehended nothing at all of what was written. I recommended to him to inform himfelf about it, in order to learn at lead; •what was the tradition of the country •, and he was told that they were the tombs of the Mamalukes, who had been killed when the califf entered into Egypt. In advancing further, I arrived at an antique gate, •which had been ruined, and afterwards rebuilt •, fo that there was nothing of the tafte of the ancient Egyptians to be feen in it, but rather that the Saracens. The materials were bricks hardened in the fun, mixed with fquare pieces of the Thebaic ftone, and fome fragments of columns-, and this mixture fhewed but too well, that the gate had been lubjeft to many changes. I traversed afterwards a great quantity of ruins, which fhewed, by a like mixture, that they were of the fame age as the gate. The whole was begirt with a wall ruined like the reft. I should have flopped the whole d^y to obferve thefe ruins, if I had not been obliged^ to have regard to our common fafety. I quitted them therefore, with regret, to wait upon the aga, to whom I laid open myjuft complaints. The good man, who had recovered a little irom his disorder, appeared enraged at the mariner in which the cacheff treated us. He fhrugged up his fhoulders, and let me know, that he faw very well to what all this tended. “ The cacheff is afraid, fays he, that by my good advice you lhould change your fentiments, and renounce the defign of going further : Thus he wants to get of you all that he can. But, however, added he, be affured, that if you go any further, you will be all cemoliflied.- "We have I I 2 TRAVELS IN EGYPT Inve fatal inftances of it. People even of our own religion have been into the country, but never re- turned again. The new cacheiT is a great rafcal. His father and his brother are like him; and all thofe who have any thing to do in the goverment, are no better than they. That I might not lhew any weaknefs, I anfwered him, thatwe were determined to go to the iecond ca- taract, provided the thing was pofhble ; that the grandees of Cairo had granted us for that purpofe their protection, and that our defign was to make ufe of it, unlefs that he, or the cachetf, forbid us to go any further. “ You are determined then, replied the aga ; I lhall not hinder you by my authority. The letters that you have brought me, give me orders to alftft you, and not to Hop you. I lhall obey them in the bell manner I can, and I proteft to you, that as long as you lhall be in my government, or in that of my fon, no one lhall do you the lealt mifchief. But I give you notice, that, as foon as you lhall be gone out of the port of the cataraCt, my protection will no longer be of any fervice to you ; and I have told you before-hand what will befall you. Stay, continued he, the cacheff is coming. You lhall fee him ; I will fend my fon with you, and you will know more precifely what is the matter.” Upon that, he ordered coffee to be ferved, and regaled me with fome bunches of grapes, which were of an ex- cellent talle, but very fmall. We were at this frugal collation, when the dif- charge of two pieces of cannon and fome mufquet arms proclaimed the arrival of the cacheff. I waited on him, with the fon of the aga and the Jew. We found this mighty power feated upon a matt, extended along the dull of a great low r er court. The fon of the aga prefented me. The cacheff arofe, gave me his hand, and made me fit down by his fide. After AND NUBIA. 1 1 3 After this Salamaleck , that is to fay, after the ordinary falutation, the fon of the aga afked the ca- ched", on the part of his father, what reafon he could have for (topping us ? “You know, replied he uoith- 6 ut hefitation , that our people are very wicked ; and that thefe Franks run great rifques, if they advance into the country without my protection, without that of my father, and without that of my friends. The bey of Tfchirche has charged me to take care of them : For which reafon, I defign, that, for their own fafety, they (hould not fet out, till I go myfelf into the country, where I will be anlwerable for every (tep they (hall take, and where I fhall be able to fe- cure them from any infult.” This anfwer having been interpreted to me, I let the cacheff know, that I returned him thanks for his care ; but that we could not wait till his departure, fince that would not be under three or four weeks ; that we feared nothing, with regard to the populace; and that if any one attacked us, we could defend ourfelves : In a word, that all the favour we afked of him was, to take off the order that he had given of fufpending our departure. “ I am very willing, fays he, if you will give it under your hand, that you have refufed my protection, and that of my friends ; and that I am quitted of all the accidents that may happen to you.” I was unwilling to confent to fuch a requeft. To find a medium, Ipropofedto him to give us letters to his friends ; and I added, that I thought them capable of procuring us the little pro- tection which we might have need of. “ In order to (hew you, replied he, how much inclined I am to fatisfy you, I will give you fuch letters as you defire, and I will fend to the reys a permifiion for failing.” Upon that, we took leave of him ; but when we were juft going out of the lower court, he called us back, and whifpered to the fon of the aga,* that he (hould let me know, that if we would have letters, it Vol. II. I was % 1 14 TRAVELS IN EGPYT was necefiary to pay for them, by an handfome pre- fent, and fome money. There were too many peo- ple in the court, to enter into difcourfe upon this matter •, infomuch that the fon or the aga held his tongue, and did not communicate the notice that had been given him, till we were got out. He declared it to the jew, who made the report of it to me. We returned to the aga, to communicate to him what had palied. He took immediately the dii- courfe of the cacheffin its true fenfe •, and concluded, that, if we would go on, it would be abfolutely ne- ceflary to comply, for it was not proper to have him for an enemy. As I faw the aga adtedlike an honeft man, I defired him to make with the cacheffthe belt bargain that he could. He promifed me he would, and bid me fend the next day our Jew, to bring nle tidings of his negotiation. I defired him to pro- cure me two faddle horfes, m order to return to the ■port of the cataradt. He lent me his own horfe, and got me an afs for my valet. It was lucky that we were fo mounted. The conference had 1 ailed fo long, that the day was far advanced ; and we had fome difficulty to arrive at our barque before it was night. jjfc, ' *“ ' v. . I had taken care to forbid the Jew to fay any thing of the difficulties that had been thrown in our way. I was afraid that our companions in th$ voyage would have loll their courage •, which is fo necefiary a virtue to get over any difficulties. Wednesday, 25 th of December. This day, being Chriilmas-day, after having per- formed fome duties that fo facred a day required, I employed all the reft of the time in viiiting the ca- taradl •, and, that I might not be too much expofed to the view of the people of the country, I withdrew, with AND NUBIA. n S with one Tingle perfon of the company, who under- flood no more Arabic than I. The place, which I went to at firft, was, where I had obferved, the day before, there was the greatefl fall of water. I made fo many turnings and wind- ings upon the rocks, which advanced the fartheft into the river, that I had fome difficulty to get away dry-ffiod ; and I had ftaid more than an hour to make my obfervations, without having feen a living foul ; but as I climbed up a rock, I found on it a native of Barbary fiffiing. I took pleafure in looking at him ; he perceived it, and conducted me to a place, where, with the affiftance of a little hook, he made me catch fome excellent carp. I gave him fome parats ; and this little prefent, which was a kind of fortune for him, gained me intirely his affeclion ; infomuch that he left off his fiffiing, and led me to all the places that were acceffible : 1 continued above four hours with him, and had the utmoft leifure to contemplate the fituation of this catarad:, which, at that time, might have four feet in its fall, and thirty feet in length u . * Perhaps it nx.Hl not be unacceptable to the reader to fee the dcfcriptions that the ancients have left us of the courfe of the Nile, and of the horrors of the cat ar ails, and to compare them with the views that Mr. ' ! ORD£N has given. The account by Diodorus Siculus is as follow ' : “ The Nile runs from fouth to north, having its fources from places un- difcovered, that lie in the remote!! parts of ^Ethiopia, and are de- farts inacceffible on account of the exceifire heat. [ The fources of the Nile have been but lately difccvered to be in the kingdom of Goyam , about twelve degrees north latitude. Vid. Hteron. Lob. Hill. AbylT. tom. i. pag. 133 ] As it is the greateft of all rivers, and traverfes the moft country, it makes prodigious bendings, fometimes turning to the eaft and Arabia, at other times to the weft and Libya. Its courfe, from the Asthiopian mountains to where it empties itfelf in- to the fea, is about twelve thoufand Jiadia, including the windings it makes. Strabo fays only upwards of ten thoufand, but it is probable he confdered only the dire" tourfe without including the windings. “ Jn the inferior p^ts the fwell of the river is lefs, the channel continually fpreading wider on both continents. That part which I 3 Upon ii 6 TRAVELS IN EGYPT Upon one of thefe rocks, I difcovered the beauti- ful remains of antiquity at Gifiret EllHeiff ; but I was walhes Libya is abforbed by fands that have an incredible depth ; but that which dift'ufes itfelf on Arabia, is diverted into exceeding large lakes and morafies inhabited all around by various nations, it enters into Egypt in Come places ten Jiadia wide, in others lefs than this, running not in a direCt courfe, but making bendings. Sometimes it rolls towards the eaft, at other times to the weft ; and there are places where it tends towards the fouth, running back again in a contrary direction. Mountains, on each fide of the river, are contiguous to it, and confine a great part of the borders ; thefe mountains are feparated by gaps and narrow precipices, into which the current of the river falling, is driven back again through the flat country, and, after having gone a good way towards the fouth, returns to flow in its natural direction. This river, though it has fuch a pre-eminence over all, is the only one that performs its courfe without violence, and without any fury of waves, except in what are called the cataraCts : This is a place in length about ten Jiadia fteep, and confined by precipices to a narrow gut, the whole rough and craggy, having alfo many ftones refembling great rocks. The ftream dafliing againft thefe impediments with vio- lence, and being driven back in a contrary direction, prodigious eddies arife. The whole intermediate fpace is filled with froth by the reflux of water, and gives great terror to all that approach it. The fwiftnefs of the current in this part is fo rapid and violent, that it feems to equal the fwiftnefs of an arrow. During the time that the Nile is fwoln, the rocks being covered with water, and all this cragged place concealed by the abundance of the ftream, fome peo- ple fail down the cataraCt when they have contrary winds to retard their fall ; but no one can fail up the cataraCt, the force of the river overcoming all human contrivance. There are many fuch ca- taracts, but the greateft of all is that on the confines of /Ethiopia and Egypt.” Diodorus Siculus, lib. i. 19,20. ' — Quis te tarn lene fluentem Moturum tantas violenti gurgitis iras, Nile, putet ? Sed cum lapfus abrupta viarum Excepere tuos, et praecipites cataraCta.*, Ac nufquam vetitis ullas obfiftere cautes jAl Indignaris aquis : fpuma tunc aftra Iaceftis ; [ CunCta fremunt undis ; ac multo murmure montis Spumeus inviCtis canefcit fluCtibus amnis. Lucan, lib. x. ver. 315. “ Who that beholds thee, Nile ! 'thus gently flow, “ Withfcarce a wrinkle on thy gkifly brow. too AND NUBIA. ii j , 500 far diftant from them, to take a good drawing, I confoled myfelf with the hopes of going thither fome “ Can guefs thy rage, when rocks refill thy force,. 4 ‘ And hurl thee headlong in thy downward courfe ; “ When fpouting cataracts thy torrent pour, “ And nations tremble at the deaf’ning roar ; ‘f When thy proud waves with indignation rife, “ .And dalh their foamy fury to the Ikies r” Rowe. Seneca defcribes the catarafls in the following lively manner: “ Excipiunt eum cataradlae, nobilis infigni fpedtaculo locus. Ibi per arduas excifafque pluribus locis rupes Nilus infurgit, et vires fuas concitat. Frangitur enim occurrentibus faxis, et per angulla eluflatus, ubicumque vincit ant vincitur,flucluat : et illic excitatis primum aquis, quas fine tumultu leni alveo duxerat, violentus, et torrens per ma- lignos tranfitus profilit, dilfimilis fibi. Quippe ad id lutofus et tur- bidus fluit. At ubi fcopulos verberavit, fpumat : et illi non ex na- tura fua, fed ex injuria loci color ell:. Tandemque eludlatus obrtan- tia, in vaftam altitudinem fubito deftitutus cadit, cum inger.ti cir- cumjacentium regionum llrepitu. Quern perferre gens ibi a Perfis collocata non potuit, obtufis afliduo fragore auribus, et ob hoc fe- dibus ad quietiora tranllatis. Inter miracula fiuminis incredibilem incolarum audaciam accepi. Bini parvula navigia confcendunr, quorum alter navem regit, alter exhaurit. Deinde multum inter rapidam infaniam Nili, et reciprocos fluflus volutati, tandem tenuif- fimos canales tenent, per quos angulla rupium effugiunt : et cum toto flumine effufi, navigium ruens manu temperant, magnoque fpedlantium metu in caput nixi, cum jam adploraveris, merfofque atque obrutos tanta mole credideris, longe ab eo, in quern cecide- rant,loco navigant, tormenti modo mifli.” Nat. ^uaf. lib. iv. cap. 2. The ancients had a f range notion of the inhabitants near the catarafls being funned with the noife of the water and rendered deaf. “ Ubi Nilus ad ilia, qua; catadupa nominantur, praecipitat ex altiflimis montibus, ea gens, quae ilium locum accolit, propter magnitudinem fonitus, fenfu audiendi caret.’* Cicero $ omnium Sa- pionis, cap. $ . By comparing the account in Diodorus Siculus and the defeription by Mr. Nor den, the catarafl feems to have beat fomeixbat altered fence the time of Diodorus; for he makes the extent of it to be ten lladia, that is, a mile and a quarter, but Mr. Nor den deferibes its length to be no more than thirty feet. It is very pojfble, however, thatY) 1 C - DOR us included under the whole catarafl the narrow pafs of the mountains. Herodotus tells us, “ That he did not go fo high, but Hopped at Elephantine.” Dr. Pococke, in /peaking of the catarafl, obferves, “ I never faw a more rough face of nature than at this place ; on the eall fide it is all I 3 other ' 1 1 8 TRAVELS IN EGYPT other day, or at leaft of palling by, when we Ihould have the liberty of continuing our voyage. During all this walk, I buffered a great heat, I was ready to die with third: •, and tho’ I was in the rock, on the weft the hills are either fandy or of black rocks: above to the fouth there feems to be an high rocky iiland, and higher up rocky cliffs on each fide, and below to the north there are fo many rocks, that little of the water is feen. We went on to the north, the Nile running through the rocks. The people knew I came to fee the cataradl, and Hood ftill ; I afked them when we fhould come to the cataraft ? and to my great furprife, they told me, that was the cataraft. The rocks of granite crofs the bed of the Nile ; and in three different places, at fome diftance from one another, di- vide the ftream into three parts, making three falls at each of them. The iirft we came to was the leaft of all ; I thought the falls were not above three feet. The fecond, a little lower, winds round a large rock, or iiland, which to the porth may be about twelve feet high, and they, fay at high Nile the water runs over this rock; but fuppoftng the Nile to be then five feet higher below the rock, the fall may be about feven or eight feet ; to the eaft and weft of it runs a ftream. To the weft are other rocks, and again to the weft of that there was a third ftream ; but at high Nile thefe two ftreams unite. This feems to be the cataraft defcribed by Strabo, which, he fays, is a rocky height in the middle of the river ; the upper part of it is fmooth, fo as that the water could run on it, but ended in a 'precipice, down which the water fell ; it had a channel, he fays, on each fide, by which boats could fail ; that is t as we muft fuppofe, at high Nile, when the two weftern branches might be united. Sailing over this rock they come tcf the very fall of the cataraft, and the water carried them down the precipice with fafety. Going fomewhat lower, to the place where the road to Affouan turns off from the river to the north eaft, I obferved a third cataraft, the fall of which appeared to me to be greater than the others, and I judg- ed the middle fall to be about five feet. There is another cataratt at Ibrim, which they call twelve days journey from this place ; fome fay alfo that there is a third catarafl ; and others, that there are feven mountains and feven cataradts.” Obfervaticns on Egypt, pag. 1 2 1 - 1 cannot conceive why Strabo Jhould flyle this cataradl the kjfer ca- taradi, o pux.(y; KATuppcOLlii, for Diodorus Siculus exprejsly fays , in the fafage I have quoted from him above , that it is the great, pi of all : But pnfhbly Strabo meant only by the word utnpof a / mall fait water ; in which fenfe it is true, for according to Mr. NoRDEN it is no more than four feet. siiddE AND NUBIA. ;r i 19 middle of the Nile, I could not get a fingle drop of water to quench my third:, The fwift flowing of the water made the rocks of granite fo flippery, that I could not get to take up water in my hand. I made fome ufelefs attempts at it. Luckily, the native of Barbary was more dextrous than I. He made me Hop, laid himfelf afterwards on his belly ; and after he had well wafhed his hands, he prefented me fome water, which I drank with a pleafure that I cannot ex- prefs. This walk being ended, the native of Barbary conducted me to his cottage, in order to regale me with fome dates and milk. He fhewed me after- wards all his houfehold furniture, of which an inven- tory might have been eaflly taken, What abound- ed the moft were children, running quite naked about us, and I treated them with fome trifling toys. The Barbarin, whofe heart was gained by my liberality, opened me one of his great jars, in order, to fhew me how r they preferved corn in the country. He carried himfelf the carp to our barque ; and the next day he returned thither again, to prefent us with fome milk. I can truly lay, he behaved himfelf fo well with regard to me, that I was quite charmed with him. He was the firlt and the lait that did us any fervice in our voyage, without demanding before- hand the backficb. He committed, however, one fault, which had like to have drawn on bad confe- quences. He was fo delighted with the few parats which I had given him, that he had fhewed them to every body he met in the way, and gave them an account, at the fame time, of what had pafled upon the rocks of the cataradl, and in his cottage. All this occafioned a very bad effeft. When I was returned to the barque, the fathers, who heard where I had been, and what I had feen, without meeting any more than a fingle perfon, fet out upon the expedition, together with our other companions I 4 im 120 TRAVELS IN EGYPT in the voyage, particularly to fee the filhing. They arrived there indeed •, but no fooner were they upon the rock, than a fcore of Barbarins ran up to them, and demanded of them the backfich. There was too great a number of them, to be able to content them all-, and it was impofiible to give to fome, without offending others. Our people thought that the fhorteft way was to refule plainly the giving any thing ; and as they underftood the language, they afked by what right they pretended to require any thing of them ? The anfwer was ready and clear : “ There was here, this morning, laid they, one of our people that received money from a ftranger ; we want to receive fome from you alfo.” This infolent anfwer was accompanied with a behaviour ftill more infolent •, for one of them, without any ceremony, put the point of his dart upon the breaft of one of our people. In order to get out of this troblefome affair, it was requifite to open their purfes, to give to fome, and to promife to give to others, when they Ihould get to the barque. The Barbarins did not fail to go thither, but they did not find there what they fought. Inftead of money they received nothing but menaces i and thus their infolence was repaid them. Whilst this fcene paffed upon the rocks of the catara[/.&- ii£ 9 { K7 of Av\ s£o

which has a great depth at the fides of thofe rocks, and the intermediate lpaces form whirl-pools with eddies or vortices. We conducted ourfelves with all the precaution that fo dangerous a pafiage required, but the misfortune was, that the barque did not obey the rudder. We ftruck upon a rock, and we continued there in a frightful fituation. The barque had been taken hold of precifely in the middle ; and the whirl of the water made us turn upon the rock, as upon a pivot. There was too great a depth for our failors to go into the water, to the bottom of which the perch could not reach. The reys would have perfuaded his crew to go out with a cord, and to draw the barque along fwimmingj but they reprefented to him, that the eddies of the water would hinder them from fwimming. We faw our- K 4 felves. 136 TRAVELS IN EGYPT Elves in imminent danger. Happily the current and the wind beat againft the barque at the fame time ; this was our lafety. It difengaged itfelf by that means, without further affiftance. To compleat our happinefs, the wind was pretty ftrong j and we took luch advantage of it, that in a little time we found ourfelves out of danger. , Our furprife was great, when after our deliverance we faw the reys and all his crew arming themfelves with guns and piftols. The firft thought that came into our heads was, that they had formed fome wicked defign againft us. It was requifite, however, to dif- femble, that we might not give them reafon to think that we were capable of taking fright. The reys, on his fide, was furprifed that we did not arm our- felves as they had done ; and he told us at laft, that we Ihould do very well to imitate their example, be- caufe in a little time we fhould come to a place, where we fhould not fail, without doubt, to be attack- ed. When we afked him the reafon of it, he an- fwered us, that the people there were fo wicked, that they fcarce ever let a barque pafs without firing at it ; and that if they could force it to come to ftiore, they pilkged it with impunity. “ They are fo wicked, added he, that even the cacheff dares not expofe himfelf to go amongft them.” As we had always our guns ready, we feigned to take no notice of what he faid to us; and to give him a ftill better idea of our intrepidity, 1 afked him to put me afhore, to go and fee the antique ruins that I had drawn at Garbe Girfche. At thefe words he threw out a moft hideous cry, and fwore by all that he knew the moft folemn and lacred, that he would never con- ferit to my requeft. Indeed it was not my intention ; fo that I did not infift much upon it. At laft we arrived at the place that had occafion- ed this alarm-, and we faw there no more than a dozen Bafbarins, fitting on the border of the Nile, and who AND NUBIA. 137 who held each a dart in his hand. But they conti- nued quiet without lb much as alking us from whence we came. When our reys and his crew thought themfelves out of danger, they fhewed their joy at it in the bell; manner they could j and it was a real pleafure to hear every one mention how he would have behaved, if we had been attacked, which gave us more than once a great deal of mirth. The two villages where thefe difturbers of the publick quiet live, are fituated on the two borders of the Nile. That which is on the eaftern llaore is call- ed Gefch-Stobne. The other oppolite to it is named Sabagura. As the wind continued to be favourable, we took advantage of it •, and we reached very foon to Hokuer , a village at fome diftance from the weft- ern Ihore of the Nile. Three quarters of a league further] we found ourfelves between Kubaen and Deckke. The firft of thefe places was to our left, and the fe- cond to our right. The latter is remarkable for the remains of an ancient temple, which is not far diftant from it j and I give two views of it in one lheet c . They name it Ell-Guraen. This temple lies a little way within land. We fee in it no hieroglyphics. It is neverthelefs in the tafte of the ancient Egyptian buildings and it may pafs for magnificent. We found after that two other villages ; the one to the eaft named Alagi , the other to the weft called Gurta. We reached afterwards to three different diftridts, which have each two villages of the fame name, fituated the one to the eaft, the other to the weft of the Nile, namely Moharraka , Umhendi , and Schemederefchied. We faftened the barque near to the laft of thefe villages which lies on the weftern jfhore of the Nile. The river begins here to become wider than it has been from the firft cataradt, as may be remarked in the chart. Its fituation however continues to be the c See Fol. Edit. PI. CLIV. fame, x 3 8 TRAVELS IN EGYPT fame, excepting that the rocks of granite have ceafed a little above the ifland of Ell-Heiff ; and that the mountains and rocks of this canton are of a fandy ftone, mixed with flints and covered with fand and little {tones. In other refpe&s the whole country is very barren. Tuesday, 3 i ft of December. . We continued all night near to Schemederefchied. We did not fet fail till about feven o’clock in the morning •, and a little time after there happened to me a very comical adventure, which I am unwilling to omit, becaufe it gives in fome meafure an oppor- tunity of forming a judgment of the genius of this people. I had come out of my tent, to examine the names of the places, by which we had palled the preceding day. The reys and the Jew-valet were fitting near me. They repeated to me the names I had already written i and I corrected them by their pronunciation. In the interim a Barbarin palfenger, who was not far diftant from us, gets up, throws himfelf upon me, feikes the paper th^t I held in my hand, tears it in pieces, and retires afterwards quietly to his place, where he fits himfelf down, as if nothing had hap- pened. I could not underhand the meaning of this infolence ; and was reflecting with myfelf whether I fhould refen t it or not, when the reys and the other perfons that were prefent fet tip a horfe laugh. I de- fined to know the reafon of it ; and after much dif- courfe they explained to me at laft the whole myftery. The Barbarin was unwilling that I fhould know the place from whence he came. He gave for reafon, that it might happen I fhould return, fome years after, into Nubia ; and that bringing more people with me, I might make myfelf mafter of the coun- try ; that if I knew the village where he was born. AND NUBIA. 139 and if I had the name of it in writing, he fhould not fail to be taken as well as the reft ; that this was the foie caufe of his having taken away the paper, in which I was going to write the name. I could fcarce forbear laughing at the fimplicity of the man ; but to prevent the confequences of luch a humour, I took a very ferious air and ordered the reys to draw near the border of the river and throw that infolent fellow on fhore. The barque, added I, is intirely ours. It is only by courtefy we give pafiage to any one ; and when any body behaves in- folently, we lhall turn him out. The reys immediately obeyed my orders, and turned his vefiel towards the fhore. Our Barbarin perceiving it, came and befeeched me humbly not to turn him out ; and promifed to behave himfelf better for the future. I fuffered myfelf to be pre- vailed on. He obtained the permiflion of continu- ing, and from that time he was quiet and very fer- viceable. - In the mean time we had already pafled three other diftritfls, which have in like manner a village of the fame name on each border of the Nila; namely Bubebaed , Naghalhadjemufe and Gabt Ell Abiid. There came on afterwards fo great a calm that we were ob- liged to fallen the barque in another like diftricft, near a village fituated on the weftern fhore of the Nile and named Sabua. There are in the neighbour- hood fome remarkable antiquities, which I have drawn. They have not fo magnificent an appear- ance as thofe of Dekke ; neither are the ftones fo well joined together ; we fee between them fome pretty large openings ; and the ftones thernfelves are only of a fandy and yellowifh kind. The edifice how- ever is built in the ancient Egyptian tafte. Its por- tal is damaged ; but the reft continues Handing. These ruins are in a plain covered with fand ; and ;JI we i 4 o TRAVELS IN EGYPT we obferve there ftill four pieces of wall, which (hew that there were formerly, in this place, vaft edifices. We had here, all round us, nothing but moun- tains and fandy rocks. The foot of the mountains is (loping and cultivated quite to the top, to which the waters of the Nile reached in its inundation. The flat part of this trad of ground was filled with beans and lupines, that had been planted there ; and the top was crowned with thickets of thorns, that grew up of themfelves. Wednesday, i ft of January, 1738. We continued, as ufual, the whole night quiet. In the morning at feven o’clock the wind being fa- vourable, and even pretty ftrong, we fet fail. The Nile continued to have its breadth, and the borders their ufual fituation. We very foon pafled before an- other diftrid named Guad Ell Arrab or Areb. It occu- pies likewife the two borders of the Nile, upon which there are two villages bearing the fame name. A little higher we had on our left, and at fome diftance from thd Nile, the village of Schiaturma. Afterwards we found purfelves between two great villages named Angora and Malcki , the firfl: is to the eaft, the fecond to the weft. We faw afterwards two other villages, namely Arega , it was to our right j and Singari y which was to our left. In the afternoon we approached a village, fituated on the eaftern (hore, named Korofcoff. They had called out to us here to bring the barque to land. We obeyed •, and we heard that the Jclorbatfchie , father of the cacheff Ibrim, was there at his country houfe. We then went afhore, and I waited upon this poten- tate. I was accomnanied by the brother of the aga of Efluaen, the reys, the Jew, and the janiflary. Mmz found his lordftfip feated in the middle of a field, expofed to all the heat of the fun, and imploy- ed AND NUBIA. 141 cd in deciding a law-fuit between two Barbarins, on the fubjedt of a camel. He had the look of a wolf, and he was drefled like a beggar. An old napkin, which was formerly white, made his turbant ; and a red drel's, (till more old, fcarce covered his body, which appeared naked through the holes. At my coming up to him, I laluted him in the ordinary manner •, but as he faw that I did not bring him any prefents, he gave me no very gracious recep- tion. He did not fo much as afk me to fit down. I did not forbear to do it without permiffion, and I put into his hands the letters of the aga of Effuaen, and thofe which his fon had furnifhed us with for money. He put the latter into his turbant, but he read the others with a great deal of attention : after which he turned himfelf towards thofe that were pleading, who feemed each to imagine they fhould get their caufe by the dint of noife. The fchorbatfchie fometimes intermixed his voice, and made himfelf fo well heard, that it could not be doubted but that he was the judge. V As this trial had the appearance of not being finilhed very foon, I ordered the Jew to fpeak to the ejfendj, who was prefent, in order to engage the fchor- batfchie to difpatch us fpeedily. The effendi had this complaifance •, and upon the fchorbatfchie’s hearing from him, that the Jew was my interpreter, he fent for him and afked him, why I had not brought him fome good prefent ? The Jew, who underftood his bufinefs, replied, “ You go too fait. What! do you afk for prelents, before you have done him the lead; fervice ? Go, fhew yourfelf his friend ; and you’ll fee that he will pay you well.” This flattering hope made an entire change in the gentleman. He afliimed an air of mildnefs, began again to falute me, and let me know that we had no- thing elfe to do but to go to Derri, where he fhould be as foon as we that there he would talk to us upon bufinefs, 142 TRAVELS IN EGYPT bufinefs, and give us entire fatisfa&ion. At the fame time he ordered his Ion to condud me to his country houfe, to Ihew it to me, and to fend a fheep as a prefent to the barque. Bv this means I law that place of pleafure, which I fhould be tempted to term rather a liable; and whilft I was employed in looking at it, my conductor ap- plied himfelf to chuling out of feven or eight Ihe- goats', the poore ft that he could find. He fucceeded in it, and had the fatisfablion to fee all the domeftics approve his choice. As we w r ere returning to the barque, the Jew re- lated to me on the way, that the effendi , who was of Cairo, had expreffed himfelf with a great deal of fur- prife that we had dared to advance fo far ; adding, that we furely had not been well adviled ; and that we might think ourfelves happy, if we could efcape fafe and found. I pretended to give no attention to this difcpurfe. A man is oftentimes a dupe, if he trulls too much to what is laid in the country. The interpreters can fometimes make a itranger believe fuch reports, when he does not underlland the language : as they regard only intereft, they are fometimes to be corrupted, and fometimes one finds out thejmethod of intimidating them. On the other fide,) there is alfo great inconvenience in negledling falutary advice fo that it is expedient to keep a cer- tain medium, which is not, however, always eafy. When we were arrived at the barque, we found that the goat, as meagre as Hie was, v/as become a bone of contention. The crew laid claim to it, and main- tained that the fchorbatfchic had fent it for their lup- per. The reys fupported them with his teftimony. Our valet, on his fide, would not lurrender it ; fo that they were difputing warmly on both fides, who fhould have the prey. We faw that they began to grow hot ; this engaged us to interfere in the diipure, and to maintain our right by ferious menaces, which deter- AND NUBIA. 143 determined the property of the goat in our favour. Yet, as we had no need of it, and as it was no dedi- cate bit, we generoufly made a prefent of it to the crew. Afterwards we fet fail, to continue our voyage. The reys began then to let us know that he would conduft us only to Derri ; adding, that if we would give him fifty fevillans to boot, he would not convey us to the fecond catarad:. We took this for empty words, and judged it ufelefs to give him any reply. However, as he addreffed himielf afterwards to one of our fathers, and entreated him to give us notice of it, we afked him his reafon ; to which he contented himfelf with anfwering that it had not been agreed on that he fiiould go further. We threatened to bring him to jufiice at Derri •, but he fet up a laugh, and faid, in a fneering air, that he believed we fhould not talk fo high when we were arrived there. All thefe difcourfes, and the advice we had re- ceived from the effendi , caufed us to make divers re- flections. But we were too far engaged* 4 to draw back, and we refolved to continue advancing, to fee what would refult from it. In the mean time we thought it proper to impofe filence on the reys, and to allure him that in what manner foever things might turn out, we fhould always have it fin our power to demolifh him, becaufe, if any misfortune befell us, we fiiould confider him as the author of it. AND NUBIA. 149 Deni, and even though there had been one, it would never have dared to undertake to convey us, without the permiffion of this man, who was a real tyrant, and who, though out of employment, governed the country. It was requifite, therefore, to refolve on any thing, rather than to quit the barque. For this pUrpofe I offered him, by means of the father and the Jew, all the advantages that he could hope in letting it to us ; andl reprefented to him, that he would get more by us, than by any ether perfon. After many difficulties the bargain was made. The reys was called ; and we all fwore, holding in our hands our beards, to perform the treaty in the manner it had been agreed on. Baram cacheffwas fo content with it, that he made me a prefent of two new zagaies, and a young elephant’s pizzle, which he told me he had carried himfelf above ten years. We retired afterwards to our barque, whither Baram cacheff fent us a goat, and a bafket of dates. We then fent the Jew with fome ffierbet, fome ftrong liquors, tobacco, &V. to make a prefent of them to Baram cacheff. But things had already changed their appearance. The fchcrbatchie , having heard that we had made an agreement with him, and apprehen/ive of lofing, if we went away, all the ad- vantages he had propofed to himfelf to get by us, had talked with Baram cacheff, and madejffiim change his fentiments. He rejected our prefents, faying that we made a fool of him ; that he muff have other things, of greater value, to continue us his protection i that however we had nothing to do but to wait the arrival of the new cacheff, who, as we had been told in the morning, would conduCt us to the place whither we wanted to go. The Jew being returned to make us this report, we could fcarce give credit to what he faid. We cpmmiffioned the father to go and wait on Baram L 3 cacheff, 1 5 o TRAVELS IN EGYPT cacheff, in order to know exa<5tly how the affair was. He was a very unwelcome gueft. Bar am cacheff told him a thoufand foolifh things •, and when the father expreffed to him that he ought however to confider, that we were under the protedtion of the Grand Seignior ; he anfwered in a paflion : “ I laugh at the horns of the Grand Seignior ; I am here Grand Seignior myfelf ; and' I will teach you to refpeft me as you ought. I know already, added he, what fort of people you are. I have confulted my cup •, and I have found by it, that you are thofe of whom one of cur prophets has faid : 7 hat there would come Franks in difguife ; who by little prefents and by fooihing and in- Jinuating behaviour would pa fs every where , examine the Jlate of the country , go afterwards to make a report of it , and bring at lajl a great number of other Franks , who woulLconquer the country and exterminate all ; but, cried he,^ I will take care about that ; and without further delay you muff: quit my barque.” The father, at his return, having confirmed to us the alteration in Baram cacheff, and reported all the Ronfenftcafiftuff that he had talked, we took the re- folution of not quiting the barque but with life. We determined that, in the mean time, we would not be dejedted, and that we would even go to meet the danger, that we might not fhew any weaknefs. We continued however quiet the reft of the day and all the night. Sunday, 5" of January. According to an agreement we had made the preceding evening, I waited pretty early in the morn- ing upon Baram cacheff. I was accompanied as ufual by the father, who fpoke the language, and by the Jew. Our Barbarian was not long before he made his appearance. Ele repeated to us his kccuftomed cant, and offered to conduct us to the cataraft. I an- fwered him-plainly,that we had no mind to go thither. m tic AND NUBIA. 151 He then changed his note. He demanded large prefents, and gave me to underlland, that, when he had received them, he fhould fee what he could do for us : upon that I afked him by what right he formed fuch pretenfions ; whether we owed him any thing ; and what he meant by playing thus with his oath, and breaking the bargain he had made with us ? These reproaches put him into a furious wrath. He fwore that he would make us know who he was, and what refpeft we owed him. “You are, fays he, in a country that belongs to me ; and I will make you pay to the tithe of your biood.” I contented myfelf with anfwering, that we fhould be able to take our meafures. We were exafperated at fuch a be- haviour. We did not wait for his reply •, we quit- ted him without taking leave ; and we went imme- diately to the Schorbatfchie. This gentleman, who was no better than the other, held us pretty much the fame language f and when it was explained to me what he had laid, J rofe up, and railing my voice I defired the father to tell him, that if they had taken their refolution, wejhad taken ours ; and that we would wait the ilfue of this affair with weapons in our hands. Upon that I went to- wards the door, and the father as well as the t Jew, after having explained to him my lentiments, fol- lowed me clolely. Mv defign was to go to the barque •, but as f was eroding the market-place, Bar am cacheff,'who was there, lent for me. He was then in his good hu- mour. He made us fit down by him ; and after the ordinary falutation he faid that we mult equip him in cloaths like a prince, and make him belides that, divers other prefents which he llipulated. His de- mands having been explained to me, I anfwered that we would content him, and that we would grant him all that he defired, provided that he would im- L 4 mediately 152 TRAVELS IN EGYPT mediately give his orders for our departure. He afked what fuit of cloaths I would give him ? I faid that he fhould have mine, which was quite new and magnificent. It was neceffary to give him a defcrip- tion of it, with which he appeared to be fatisfied. The bargain feemedto be concluded. There was ftill wanting to make an agreement with the fchor- , hatfchie. 1 was willing to go and wait upon him-, but Baram cacheff would not let me. “ Send the others, faid he to me , and do you ftay with me till their return. If they agree with the fchorbatfchie , che affair will be ended-, if not, I will talk to him; and if he is obftinate, you fhall neverthelels depart.” That I might not iliew any miftruft, or fear, I continued with him -, and when we were alone, he ordered fome dates and water to be brought, with which he regaled me: as for him, he neither eat nor drank on account of the rammedan. During that time he loaded me with civilities, and made me un- derftand tLtt I fhould give him fome of my fhirts, fome coffee, fome rice, &c. I promifed him all this by figns, and by fome Arabic words ill pronounced. He received great joy at it, which he expreffed by re- peated carefles. I perceived, however that amongft his careffes there were fome which were owing to his avarice. v The Arabs, as well as the Turks, are accuftomed to l put what they efleem the molt valuable in the folds of their turbant and in thofe of their fcarf. Baram cacheff wanted to know whether I did not carry fome- thing of value about me. For this purpofe he began with filling my pockets with dates and when they •were filled, he put fome into my turbant and into my fcarf, taking care to fearch at the fame time whether he could not find any thing in them. But I had the precaution to take every thing out, before I left the oarque -, fo that he loft both his labour and dates. In the interim, the father and the Jew returned from AND NUBIA. isi V v/ from waiting on the fchorbaticbie , with the news that they had not been able to prevail with him. Baramt cacheff told me then, that ifi would ftay with him and let the others go away, he would treat me as his own brother, and make me pafs my time very agree- ably. I thanked him for his kind offers, and en- treated him only to finifh cur affair, and to give orders for our departure. He confented to it. We rofe up and returned to his houfe, where we con- cluded a new bargain : it was there flipulated, “That my fuit of cloaths fhould be given to him ; that he fhould have, moreover, a pair of piflols, fome powder and balls, a certain quantity of rice and coffee, and fifteen fevillans •, and that I fhould give as much mo- ney to the fchorbatfchie, thirty five fevillans for the hire of the barque, fix fevillans to the reys, and three for the failors.” On thefe conditions the reys was to fet out with us in the night, in order that we might go away the more fecurely. This new agreement being determined, Baram cacheff told us, that he was then going to the fchor- batfcbie , to jnake him hearken to reafon ;jand that he would come afterwards to the barque, in order to fee the prefents we defigned him. For our parts, we made hafte to the barque, where we no fooner arrived, than we caufed all the things bargained for to be taken out of our packets, that we might not have any need of opening them in the prefence of Baram ca- cheff. We took care to conceal all the lioufhold utenfils, and a thoufand trifles which were ncceifary to us, expofing nothing to fight but weapons, of which we had a pretty good flock. Baram cacheff did not arrive under an hour. He immediately ordered every body to retire that was on the border of the Nile; and as foon as he was entered into the barque, he demanded to fee his prefent, with which he appeared very well fatisfied. “ It is pro- per, fays be , to conceal it ? becaufe the fchorbatfchie is coming i 5 4 TRAVELS IN EGYPT coming. You fhall keep it till the evening ; and when it is dufky, I will fend one of my Haves to take it. The fchorbatfchie being arrived we talked of the bargain that had been made, but he did not appear contented with it. In vain did we offer him a piece of common red cloth, of which he might make him- felf a fuit of cloaths. He did not find it to his lik- ing, and would not accept it ; infomuch that he withdrew in difcontent. We were afraid of a fecond rupture of the bargain. This induced me to put Bar am cacheff in mind of his promifes. He anfwered, that we need not doubt of any thing i that all fhould be done in the manner which had been agreed on. Who would not have believed, after this, that he a6ted fincerely ? Efpeci- ally when we faw the reys come, who told us, that he had ixceived the orders of his mailer, and who in the afternoon unloaded the veffel of what he had brought, and put aboard new merchandifes of that place. - In the fpcan time night was come - y and it wais al- ready pretfy far advanced without the Have’s having, appeared; We were very uneafy at it, and ordered the Jew and the brother of the aga to go and fee what occafioned this delay. They continued there till pafirmidnight, and came back at lafl with the fad tidings/ that things had intirely changed their ap- pearance ; that Bar am cacheff was more a devil than ever ; that he fwore nothing lefs than our de- ftrudtion ; and that he talked of nothing but cheflsof gold which he would have, before he would let us efcape. The effendi y whom I mentioned the firfl of this month* and who appeared to have fome principles of honour, came then to us, and told us, that he was extremely concerned at the fad circumftances in which he law us. ‘ c You have not to do, fays he y with men, but with devils. My unhappy fortune 1 * obliges AND NUBIA. i 55 obliges me to live with them ; and I maintain my- felf in my poll, becaufe I can write •, which they cannot do themfelves. I abhor the manner in which they treat ftrangers. No barque comes here any longer. They have plundered all thofe that have appeared, and have ill treated the reys even To far as to give them the baftinado. I know not, purfued he , what reftrains them fo long with refpe but if he will let us go away im- mediately, I lhall not regard what is pail ; and 1 will give him, moreover, fome little prefents, which will not be difagreeable to him.” This new overture feemed to be relifhed by our gentleman. He loaded me with carelfes, and called me his brother. But when it was neceflary to come to a conclufion, he demanded fome purfes for him- Wk. m ' felf. AND NUBIA. 159 felf, and added, that as much was requifite for the fcbcr batfchie. He formed alfo befides that divers other pretenfions to which I did not deign to give an anfwer. He prefled however, to have my refolutions ; and at lait I let him know, that as we had no more than was requifite to us for the necelfaries of our voyage, we could give him nothing that it was true, I had made him promifes ; but that as he did not keep his word, I was difpenled from keeping my word with him ; that he might be afliired he would have nothing but by force •, and that I was going immediately to the barque, to put every thing in order for his recep- tion. He caufed every thing that I had faid to be ex- plained to him, and had the patience to hear it, with- out being enraged. He contented himfelf with an- fwering, that he had, however force enough to de- ftroy us if he had a mind. “ We know it, replied /; and we were informed of your evil difpofition before we fet out from Elfuaen. We did not forbear to come, but took the precaution of having the infiilts reveng- ed that fhould be done us, in cafe we were not. in a condition to revenge ourfelves. Upon that I rofe from my feat. I took leave, and went to the barque, with a firm refolution of quitting it no more.” I had not been there half an hour, before Baram fent to defire me to difpatch to him an interpreter. The Jew went to him •, and returned very foon w'th the news, that Baram was ferioufly in a difpofition to let us depart ; that he begged we would fend him the prefents that had been agreed upon to give him. Pie alked alio for fome other trifles, of fo little impor- , tance, that it was not worth our while to refufc them ‘ to him. On thefe terms he promifed to let us depart I immediately, and to accompany us himfelf to a cer- { tain di (lance. There was no great reliance to be made on the 1* word 160 TRAVELS IN EGYPT word of a man, who had fo often broke it. It was necdfary, however, to pafs it over. The prefentt were fent him, together with the money ; and the fchorbatfchic had likewife his lhare, with ibme piaiters to boot, which he had afked for his children. Towards noon Bar am cacheff, accompanied by two of his bullies, came to the barque ; he made up immediately to our tent ; but as he faw we were fit- ting at table, he would not enter for fear of difturb- ing us. He got every thing in order for fetting fail. When he faw that we had dined, he gave his fabre and thole of his Attendants into my hands, to keep them, and to Ihew us that he adted with fincerity. He then alked me whether I was fatisfied with him, and whether I would call him Hill a faithlefs man ? I took care to avoid provoking him. I let him know, that I could not have thought he was fo honeft a man, and that ayarefent I was inclined very much in his favour. I fhid too much to a man of that (lamp •, fo that lie dfe not fail to take me at my word. “ Since you are favourably inclined towards me, replied he y give me fbmething.” We appeared a little reludlant j but he did not give over his demand ; and it was ne- cefiary to part with feveral other trifles in his favour. The word of it was that he had never done alking. He had no fooner got one thing than he wanted to have another. Nothing was more tirefome. He alked ; Iwe refufed ; we difputed on the one fide and the other ; we were obliged at laft to come to a com- pofition, and always to give what indeed were trifles, but trifles that might be ferviceable to us on other occafions. In the mean while we had got on a good way, and night approached. We landed at Keravafchie. Ba- ram left us there, ordered his fupper to be got ready, and eat it in the open air, at a little diftance from the barque. » ‘ . r d In the. interim a fervant of one the fathers, who had been AND NUBIA. i6ii been robbed df a riding-coat, went to complain to Bar am cacheff, who by this time began to be drunk. He fell into a furious paflion, rofe up, drew his fabre, and fwore that whoever had commit- ted the robbery fhould forfeit his life. “ I will, added he , take all I can lay hands on, but I will have ' my Haves keep their hands clear.” Upon that, he ordered a ftri fear any thing, he promifed to thiflk of it, and ler : us extremely well fatisfied at his condudt^* We then took full po (TeHion of our new abode, which, inftead ol chambers, had nothing but thre . kind of arched coach houfes, and the furniture o which was nothing but a fopha of llone work. Thai of the middle received light at its whokYront, which was entirely open. There was, however, a kitchirs uncover’d at the top, befides a little nook, where a Have lodged with his wife. He wa^fche^keeper, or governor of the caltle. His mailer had given him orders to obey us in every thing •, and he was to put the keys into our hands every evening. The bell circumllance in this country houfe was a large court full of fheep and poultry. The whole was at our fervice, on condition that'we would pa) for it ; that is to fay, at a deare'r^rate than at the market. Before the body of the principal building there was a platform, very proper to roall ones felf in the fun, which fhone upon it the whole day. One might, however, have breathed there a cool air, in the evening, and at night ; but there was a great obllacle to it ; for they had carried thither for a long while all the filth of the houfe ; which had grown putrid there* and gave a fmell that did not permit one to Hay long. We had been accullomed to lodge fo clofely con- fined in our barque, that notwithstanding the little con- 1 7 o TRAVELS IN EGYPT conveniency there was in this houfe, we thought our- felves much better than we had been for along time: We were at leaft more at large. This advantage, however, did not affeft us much, and we fighed for the time when we fhould be able to quit this difagree'* b e retirement. Monday, 13 th of January. t We were told in the morning, that there was at Ef- luaen a little barque, which offered to carry us to Cairo. I went toJfee it, but it was too fmall ; and the mafter demandedrorty-five fevillans for our paffage. I was not tempted to conclude the bargain ; and the .on of the aga, who arrived in the interim, was no more -willing than I to confent to it. He faid the voyage was fatiguing enough of itfelf, without in- creafing the fatigue by putting ourfelves in aprifon; and he gave rpe hopes there would arrive in a little ime a barquefmom capacious. I agreed, however, with the mane^rxliis, to carry me the next day to he other fide the Nile ; and the fon of the aga p omifed me two janiffaries, together with the valet, • > o had talked to me of the antiquities that were be found there. It was he that was to ferve me C a guide. t Tu^fb'AY, 14 th of January. In thetnorniffg I went to the other fide of the Nile, was accompanied by the fathers, the janiffaries, and the valets. We were obliged to go down the Nile more than a league, becaufe the border of the river between the ifland Elephantine and the continent, on the. weft fide, had not depth of water fufhcient to bring the, barque near to fliore. When we had landed, it was neceffary to go up along the ft.ore, as high as we had fallen down. Our guide made us, after that, crofs fandy mountains, •which in this quarter come quite clofe to the border of the river. It was the moft troubleiome walk in the AND -NUBIA. i 7 , the world; for befides that we had to travel Ov r er lands, which is fatiguing ; they concealed on their lurface abundance of thorns, which gave no fmall trouble to our bare legs, as we always have them in that country. Moreover it was extreme hot weather; fo that the way which our guide had fixed to the continuance of a few pipes of tobacco, feemed to us of an unmeafurable length. At the end of three hours walking, we arrived at the place we were in queft of, without any other accident than that of being very well tired. But what was my furprize, when infteacHf fo/ire magni- ficent ancient edifices, I perceived nothmg but old rubbifh of bricks and mud! I afked the valet of the aga, if thefe were the fine things, that were worth more than I had feenin the ifland Elephantine? He anfwered me very calmly, Yes ; but as he perceived that I was provoked at it, he endeavoured to footh me, by faying that I fhould fe^Jomething more beautiful in the infide. It was reqmme tome patient, and to advance on in order to enter. ^1 round there alfo nothing more than old rubbifh. I began to break out in a pafiion againfl the*’ man, who did nothing but laugh at the anger he faw me in, as if he had a mind to divert himfelf in lmving deceived me in this manner. A I endeavoured to flifle my wrathkby eating and drinking what I had taken care to bring with me. I refrefhed myfelf by that means from my fatigue; and I then recollected, that the ralcal had talked to me of mummies, paintings, and infcriptions. I asked him about them, and he promifed to fatisfy me by Ihewing me all thofe things. Immediately he led me into a place, the walls of which were indeed painted ; but when I faw them, I did not doubt a moment but all thofe ruins were the remains of a church, and of a Copti or Greek; convent.’ 5 He led me after that to a kind of burial place, the tombs of, which have been opened by the Arabs. He gave me fy 2 TRAVELS IN EGYPT fome bones of dead people for mummies and it is a wonder he did not pais them off for relicks. There was wanting nothing more after that but to ihow me the infcriptions. He was not at a lofs at all about it, when I afked after them. He maintained the ful- filling of his promife to the lait, and made me remark fome ruined cells, where they had wrote, with char- coal, upon the plaifter that the walls were daubed with. My gentleman did not flop there •, he piqued him- felf of doing more than he had promifed. He made me go down into a place, where there was a well half filled up. " ‘ There, fays he, you lee the place where the treafures are buried. If you can draw them out from thence, you will be fufficiently paid for the trouble you have taken in coming hither.” I fet up a laugh, in my turn, at the fimplicity of this Bar- barin, which is common to all his countrymen. I judged then, 1 tlyy^hefe ruined convents might very well have occ^oned the general notion they have, that treafures nave been buried here. It is pofiible that the Monks, in danger of feeing their convents de- ftroyed, hid under-ground the filver plate and the fhrines for relicks of their churches ; that the Arabs afterwards, having, difeovered fome of thefe treafures, have imagined there were fuch throughout the whole country J and that as they cannot diftinguifh between an ancient an 3" a modern ruin, they imagine there are treafures wherever there have been buildings. I believe likewife, that I fhould not run any rifk of of being miftaken, if I faid that the prefervation of i'o many antiquities, which we admire at prefent, is owing folely to this falfe perfuafion, very troublefome, however, and very dangerous, to a traveller who en- deavours to fatisfy hi s curio fity. As I had taken fo much trouble to come on the fpot, 1 was willing to fee it entirely. I went all round it •, but, to fay the truth, I perceived there nothing that was worth the pains of remarking. I found only BH the AND NUBIA. 173 the marks of a building, which had been inhabited by lome Chrildians, imployed folely in the worfhip of the true God. Moreover the building was .of a bad idruddure, and fituated in the molt barren foil in the world. We fee, as far as the eye can reach, nothing but plains and mountains covered with fands. The water, according to all appearances, was not very good there-, and if thofe who dwelt in this place, were obliged to go and fetch water from the river, they underwent a great deal of inconvenience in pro- curing it. After having repofed ourfelves a little, we fet out upon our journey to return to our barque. The walk, that was necelfary for us to take for this pur- pofe, was (till more difagreeable than that of the morning. In the firft place, we were then quite frefh, and the hope of feeing fomething beautiful encou- raged us i whereas at our return, we were already tired with the preceding walk -, ancLmoreover we had the difpleafure of having fatigued mmUves in vain. Neither in going nor in returningTOid we meet with any one upon the road. As far as I can con- jecture, the Arabs feldom go into thi^ quarter, unlefs when they go in companies in fearch of fomething. I paid three fevillans for the barque ; and I gave two others, which were difdributed between the janiflaries and the valet of the aga. Thefe laid were more con- tented with my bounty, than I was with the ufelefs toil that I had taken. Wednesday, 15 th of January. The fon of the aga brought us a revs, whofe barque was at the port of the cataradd ; and he was to bring it down in three days to Effuaen. We agreed with him for fixty fevillans, which was ten fevillans an oar. He engaged to condudt us to Cairo, and to land us wherever we fhould have a mind. We . paid down ten fevillans before hand. We had this day a vifit from the. brother of the 174 TRAVELS IN EGYPT aga, who had accompanied us to Derri. He came the moment after that the fon of the aga had left us, and we had concluded a bargin for the barque. We had^not yet feenthis good man lince our return. He congratulated us again upon our having elcaped, at fo cheap a rate, out of the hands of Baram cacheff. We afked him whether he really thought, that they had a defign of murdering us there. “ I don’t be- lieve, fays he , that they would have come to that ex- tremity, if they could have taken away all that you had without it; but as they faw you determined to de- fend yourfelves, and were fearful, on another fide, that if any one ofyou elcaped, he might carry complaints of them, their firft defign was to endeavour to take you by furprife and to difpatch you. Luckily they could not agree together on the manner they Ihould under- take it, for they were not willing to expofe themfelves, inafmuch as^hey faw that you were not people that would give up filing eafily. There happend, con- tinued be , ^qotlS circumftance, which contributed greatly to ycj^being permitted to depart. This was, the report or your riches having been fpread abroad, there came ev£ry day, from divers places, perfons who pretended to have a lhare in the fpoil. Baram was then fenfible, that if he lhared the plunder with fo many people, he ran a rifle of having much lefs than if he deaj^ with you alone. His private intereft determined him therefore to draw out of you the moft that he could, and to fend you away in the man- ner he did.” We'alked him alfo, if he had never fpoke of us to Baram cacheff. “ I did not fail to do it, replied he I never faw him without reprelenting to him. the mifehief that he would do himfelfby treating you ill. The effendi, added he, joined like- wife in thele reprefentations, but the tyrant loaded us both with abufes, “and threatned to treat us as he did you. I once named to him my brother. Baram made a jeft of his recommendation-, and yet the fcoundrel has had the impudence te write to him. AND NUBIA. 1 75 - that out of refpect to him he had fhewn you all the civility imaginable, and done you all the fervices that were in his power.” The good old man dif- played to us alfo an infinite number of cireumftances, which we were ignorant of, and enlarged much on the cruelty of Baram ; which we more eafily be- lieved, than when he had mentioned it to us before. This brother of the aga, however, had not been of any great fervice to us in our voyage. He was much more timerous than we i and he was of too phlegmatic a temper to beftir himfelf as is requifite on fo delicate an occafion. I imagine however that Baram cacheff could have wifhed him further. A witnefs of this kind mull neceffarily embarrafs him ; and he could not fecurely put him to death. His brother was too near a neighbour, and too powerful to be offended with impunity. As to our part, we congratulated each other on ha- ving efcaped Inch imminent danger ; and though we had Hill a great number of difficfffties to furmount, before we arrived at Cairo, they ft^te nothing in comparifon of the peril we had run at' Derri. We did not forget to make fome prefents to the good man, and the reader may be affured that he was de- lighted with them. Thursday, 16 th of Jai^tary. H Towards noon Ibrahim aga died. His fon fent to acquaint us of his death ; and let^s know, at the fame time, that he fucceeded to * the government. We fent him our compliments immediately •, and made him prefents of divers things, which he had appeared to be defirous of. In return, he gave us in the evening a guardof three janiffaries, and acquainte-d us, that as he could not be affured that no troubles would happen on occafion of his' father’s death, he had thought it proper to place us in fafety. It was neceffary for us to take this concern of his in good part, from which however we fhould have been glad to have difpenfed him. We fhould have chofe rather a to ij 6 TRAVELS IN EGYPT to have had no guard. Every thing was fufpefted by us: fo that as long as thei'e janiifaries continued with us, two of our people kept a good watch all night by turns. No ill accident however befel us. I had been in the morning to make a tour on an emi- nence, from whence I perceived our barque, which they were bringing down from the port of the cata- ract. They employed in loine places, camels to draw it by means of a cord ; and in other places men performed that office. It was a very tedious work, and which made me fear, that our departure would be retarded fome days. Friday Saturday 18 th , Sunday, 19 th of January. During thefe three days there palled nothing of moment. As the new aga had lent us word not to ftir abroad, for the fame reafon as had induced him to give us a guard, we did not go far from our abode. Our people amufed themfclves with fhooting ; and we laid in provificfts for our approaching voyage. M£m>AY, 20 th of January. Towards the evening our reys came to give us notice, that he was at length arrived with his barque-, that it was fattened below the citadel ; and that he hoped the next S^y, or at the fartheft the day after, jto bring it to the place where the embarkation was to be made. M , Tuesay, 2 i ft of January. That day the wind was too ftrong to attempt to bring the barque to the place where we were to em- bark. Moreover it was the Turks Eafter day. Wednesday, 2 2 d of January. The fame reafons continued to hinder the barque from falling down the river. The fame day the aga fent us a ffieep and fome white bread, made on occa- fion of the Eafter feftival. He prefented it to us in the name of his fultana, which in the language of the country, fignihed, “ You have forgot to make her a prefent, think of it, and repair your fault.” 1 77 AND NUBIA. Thursday, 23 d of January. The barque arrived at length in the morning at its deftined place. I went to fee it, andYbund it fpacious enough. It drew no more than a foot and fome inches water when empty •, and it was With a flat bottom. All thefe forts of barques are built of the fycamore wood, of which the chefts of mummies are likewife made. This wood is extremely hard, and we may fay that the barques are very ftrong. Yet this does not hinder a great number from being loft, as well on account of their bad ftru more fecure of my point, I promifed to give him a piafter, when I returned from thole two places. Towards midnight we arrived before Turraeg. We there found feven or eight barques, that were on fhore, and hallowed to each other, which is the ordinary method of the country. There were in this place two fch crb at f chics of Efiuaen, who . were to I • fign the letters that the aga had written to the gran- dees of Cairo. We fent the letters to them" by the reys, and as foon they had figned them we put oft ^rom fhore. Thursday, 30 th of January.^ WE had continued the whole night to advance a guod way, by means of the calm. It was the fame 1 A/ in 1 83 TRAVELS IN EGYPT in the morning. But towards noon there arofe a very ftrong north wind ; and our rudder broke. We were obliged to flay in the middle of the Nile, greatly per- plexed between the wind and the current, which op- 1 pofed .each other, and occafioned fo great a rolling of the veffel, that fome of our people were fick. We plied, however, our oars fo well, that at length we approached the land at Dueeg. Whilft we were here, there palled by a little barque, in which were three Franks. We re- turned almoft immediately to the oar ; infomuch that we arrived, towards noon, oppolite to Esnay. The firft thing we thought of was to get our rudder repaired. We afked afterwards concerning the Franks that we had met •, but no one could fay any thing pofitive about them. The only circumftance that we could learn was, that they had been to fee the ancient temple, where they wanted to break a Hone, but that the people oppofed it. I knew already, by my own experience, that it was not a thing to be at- tempted. I regretted that I had not been able to lpeak to thofe gentlemen a . I fhould have informed them of my adventures, from which they might have been able to reap fome advantage. But they palled fo fwift that we loft their barque out of fight in a mo- ' ment. * I have been informed, that one of thofe gentlemen was the right re- j v trend and learned doSlor Pococke, the prefent bijhop of Offory, who has obliged the world with his travels into Egypt and the Eaft, from which we have received fo much afffance in our additional obfervations. Dr. Pococke hovsever gives a different account concerning the ftone they wanted : “On the nineteenth (I prefume the bifop here reckons I by the oldjlyle) vve came to Efne on the weft, a confiderable town for thefe parts ; we went afhore, and ftaid about an hour, and the men wanting a large ftone for ballaft, the people knowing we were Europeans, would not let them take it into the boat, faying, that the Franks, if they took away that ftone, would by their magic art draw away their hidden treafures.” Obfervations on Egypt, pag. AND NUBIA. 189 The wind continued ftill northerly, and was very Itrong •, fo that we fpent the night before Efnay. Friday, 31** of January. I WENT early in the morning, to obferve again the ancient temple. I examined my defign , where I found nothing to alter. I could have wilhed only to have added fomething to it ; but I found myfelf in an inftant furrounded by Inch a croud of people, that I was obliged to be content with what I had already, and to think of a retreat ; for I mud fay, that the people of Efnay are the wickedeft mob that I have ever met with. Cur reys was of this place, and he did not belie his birth. There mult be in the neighbourhood of Efnay another ancient temple. I enquired about it, but no one could give me any account of it b . Our reys, who . t. , b ‘The fame learned author has given the fallowing account of both the/e ti tuples : “ The next day we went to an ancient temple. As i faw the figure of a women fitting, cut in feveral parts of the wall, I conjectured that this might be the temple of 1 ’allas at Lato- polis, where both that deity and the filh Latus were worlhiped. The narrow paffage on each fide feems to have been for the lame defign as in fome other temples, fome way or other to impofe on the people ; and the little cell might be to keep fome facred animal in ; it is about three feet above the floor of the rooms, and near eight feet high. The capitals of the pillars in this temple are fomething like the Corinthian, but with averyflat relief, fome of them being but little higher than if marked out with lines. There are feveral forts of capitals. Within the temple are three ftories of hieroglyphics of men about three feet high, and at one end the lowelt figures are as big as the life ; one of them I obferved had the head of the Ibis. The deling is curioufly adorned with all forts of animals, and painted in very beautiful colours ; among them I obferved a figure fitting on what appeared like a boat, with a circle round him, and two inftrumeius at one end. 1 obferved alfo a ram with a crofs on his head, fomewhat like the handle of a fword, and acrofs his neck was fomething refembling wings. Among the animals 1 obferved the beetle, and a fort ofl'corpion; all the hieroglyphics are very well cut, but fome of them are de- faced. This temple appears to have been ufed as a church, and I faw fome Coptic inferiptions on the wail in black letters, and they \ X wjk had t 9 o TRAVELS IN EGYPT had formerly conduced father Si card, either knew nothing of it, or at leaft he was not willing to give me this fatisfaflion. He told me only, that this father had. loll all his papers, in going to the Copti convent ; but that he got them reftored to him. He added, that the fame father had been very ill treated in this convent. Our rudder being repaired, we quitted Efnay, though the north wind continued, and was ftill very told me that there had been a convent there, fo that the temple feems to have been turned to that ufe. On the north fide of the town of Elite there is another temple. The pillars are almoft all different, but fomething approaching the Corinthian order, and lhaped like the capital mentioned before in the other temple. This whole building is very richly carved with hieroglyphics. I law one man with the goat’s head ; and a man with a crocodile’s head is cut over the middle door that is oppofite to the entrance There are feveral others in the walls with crocodiles heads iikewife, and alfo fome crocodiles; which makes me think that this was the city of Crocodiles, where that beaft was worlhiped, as Strabo obferves, lib. xvii. pag. 817. though he mentions the city of Cro- codiles before Aphroditopolis and Latopolis, whereas if the city of Crocodiles were put laft inftead of firft, it would agree with the fituation I give thefe places. The old city feems to have been to the north ; at the end of the town I faw the remains of an ancient quay /of rufticftone work, with Hairs down to the river. A mile to the fouth of Efne is the monallery of faint Helen, by whom they fay it was founded ; it has been more commonly called the con- vent of the martyrs, and it was a place of great devotion. It appears to have been a great burial ground, the fpot where they buried the dead not being lefs than a mile round. Many of the tombs are magnificent, being a dome on four arches, with a little cupola on the top, fomething refe'mbling the holy fepulchre, and built of brick. Some of them have a crofs, others the eagle cut on them, and a Ihort Greek infcription. On many of them, as well as about the convent, thefe words are cut : Ek Sso; 0 ( 3 o», 0 o?« It is a very indifferent convent, and the church is mean. There are- only two monks in it, who cannot marry ; but their relations, both women and children, live in the convent. This is the laft church in Egypt. I made them a prefent of fome incenfe, knives, and fciffars ; and they entertained us with what they could pro- * vide. To, the north of the convent there is fome wood and cotton fhrubs of the perennial kind, on the eaft fide alfo I faw the fena.” Observations mi Egppt, pag. 111. {Irons. AND NUBIA. 191 ftrong. It was eight o’clock in the evening when we departed •, and at midnight we were not yet out of fight of Efnay. We then caft anchor in the middle of the Nile, at about half a league from Efriay, , • Saturday, i ft of February. AT break of day we weighed anchor, to endeavour to proceed. But the north wind, which became kill more violent, obliged us very foon to put to fnore. We caft anchor at Ell Ardie, a place fituated on the weftern fliore of the Nile, between Efnay and Afsfuun. We con- tinued there the whole day. Our people went a flooring, and killed a dozen geefe of the Nile. In the evening we were willing to try if we could not advance forwards. The wind was ftill very ftrong. We found ourfelves obliged to faften our boat again near a little ifiand, that the linking of the Nile had formed. . | Sunday, 2 d of February. THE north wind ftill continued, and was very ftrong. We attempted, however, to return to row- ing, but all our efforts were in vain. We could only crofs the Nile, and reach the other border of the river oppofite to ,y| Assfuun. We had before us a plain, which was not much cultivated. It extended in breadth the fpace of a quarter of a league : After which the mountains rofe again. Towards the evening, the wind having en- ' tirely fallen, we unfaftened the barque, and fet out upon our voyage. We advanced to Schagab. Night approached, and we might very well have continued to fail down the Nile, but we chofe rather to ftop, in order to get in the next day a provifion of wood, of which we had great fcarcity : The village of Schagab is fituated at a gun-lhot dif- tance from the eaftern fhore of the river, and at the 192 TRAVELS IN EG YPT like diftance from the mountains. There are in the neighbourhood fome palm trees, with a grove of trees of different kinds. The foil is not of a great extent, but is very well cultivated. Monday, 3 d of February. IN the morning were .brought on board three large facks of fenna of Mecca. We had them thrown out as foon as we perceived them. The barque was al- ready too much loaded. A little time after we began to row we faw feve- ral crocodiles. In the afternoon we paffed before the antiquities of Arment c : I was willing to go alhore there ; but the reys reprefented to me, that if I went thither, it would be impoffible for him to fatisfy me with regard to Luxxor, where we were to arrive in the evening. I did not infill any longer on it, and we continued our voyage, becaufe I knew likewife that we were not far dillant from Magdschergarona. This paffage is difficult, and impracticable if the lead wind blows againll you. The reafon of it is, that the Nile here has no current. When we were got thither, the reys took care to remark it to me, in order to excufe better his refufal of letting me land at Arment.' The Nile forms here a great ifland, after which we met with another ifland. At length we arrived near Luxxor. One cannot land there in this feafon, be- caufe theuvater is too low. We landed therefore at a quarter of a league diltance from the village, beyond which are the principal antiquities. I propofed to the reys to go thither in the night •, he approved my de- fign, and offered to accompany me thither. Some of our people were willing likewife to be of the party. We fetout at midnight, and arrived at thefe anti- e 'The tratjlater imagines there is fome mifake in the original, by jutting Arment for fome other place. quitics, AND NUBIA. quitics, without meeting a foul living upon the way. The Arabs are fo miftruftful one of another, that they retire at fun let, and do not appear again' till after it is rifen. Tuesday, 4th of February. { 1 FI AD all the time that was neceffary for me to meafure thefe fine antiquities ; and I had even finifhed before it was day. I was willing to attempt likewife the meafuring the antiquities that are in the village j but I had no fooner approached them, than the barking of dogs obliged me to retire. We determined, there- fore, on going back to the barque. In the morning I returned^) Luxxor. Our people amufed the Arabs, who came in crouds to purchafe provifions ; and they engaged them long enough for my being able to employ the belt part of the morning in taking the meafures that I wanted. « ' At eleven o’clock we returned to the barque, and immediately we put off from Ifyore, with a delign of going to D O ■ Carnac. As the Nile had, on that fide, but very little depth of water, it was necelfary for us to go more than two leagues, before we could find a place for landing at. The weather was calm, and the current pretty llrong •, fo that we went that way in lefs than two hours. I did not delay to go on fhore, in order to fee the ruins, though I was extremely fatigued v r ith th£ toil I had taken in the night. Our revs, who perceived it, offered to procure me a horle, and I willingly ac- cepted his offer. He brought me one, that appeared to be no great racer. His looks were deceitful. No fooner was I mounted, than he went like lightning, and ran a great diftance, before it was poffible for me to flop him. The bridle confifted of nothing but a piece of packthread ; and the faddle, . which was of wood, was not well girt : Add to this, that I am not Vol. II. O’ O. on ^TRAVELS IN EGYPT one of the belt riders in the world. I own that I was i a very difagreeable fitUation. I kept myfelf, how- ever, firm, by clinching my knees, which were quite Hayed. At length I had the good fortune to meet with a palm tree. I made my horfe run full butt againfl this tree. He was ftunned with it; and Popped ihort till our people came to my afiiftance. I then immediately demounted, and went on foot to the place that was the objecl of my curiofity. I the r ? drew in hafte, all that appeared to me to deferve the trouble. I made difpatch, becaufe we had been perceived, and I was very much afraid that they Would come very foon in crouds about us. I was not deceived in my apprehenfions. In going, we had met with no more than two or three perfons amongft the ruins ; but at our return, we found the whole road befet with chillers of Arabs, who all alked for the back/ifch. I let them 'know, that I never carried any thing about me ; but that they might follow me to the barque, where I would give them fomething. Some of them followed us, and others retired in quiet. Upon our arrival at the barque, we found there an Arab fchech ; not one of thole that live like princes, but a fchech like him that I had met with on the other fide of the Nile, when I went to vifit the ruins of Thebes. He alked us at firft for a duty, which he pretended to be owing to him, becaufe we were landed in his territories. We took no notice of fyim. He then confned himfelf to entreating us to make him a prefent of a little gun-powder, and fome balls. We gave them to Kim, without imagining the confe- quence ; for the rafcal had no fooner got what he wanted, than he loaded his gun; cocked it, and de- manded infolently that we Ihould pay him his due. We knew that he had no fuch demand ; fo that we feized our fire-arms, and prefenting them to him with courage, we threatened to lay him dead upon the fpot, if he did not inftantly put down his gun. L ■ MiflB The A ND N U B I A. 195 The order was too urgent, and too well fupported for his refuting to obey. He uncocked his gun with- out the lead difficulty, and begged us to be allured that he had no ill intention againft us. “ I only meant it, fays he, againft the reys.” We gave him to underhand, that w hoever offended our reys offended us. He did not fpeak a word after that, feeing well that he could get nothing from us. The Arabs, who had followed us to the barque, began then to beftir themfelves. They demanded the backftfch , which had been promifed them. Our anfwer was fhort. We fhewed them our arms, and let them know, that what we had to give was within the barque. They appeared confounded, and did not infill any longer. They faid, however, that if they had known it before, they -^Ihould have found the way to prevent us from reaching the barque, till we had fatisfied them. In being run away with by the horfe, I had loft the papers that contained the meafures and defigns of the antiquities of Luxxor. I did not take notice of it at the time •, I perceived it at Carnac, and fent imme- diately the valet to feek for them, v/ith orders to of- fer the backftfch to any one that Ihould have found them. I was ftill at the ruins when he came back to tell me, that he had not been able to getcany tidings of them. I was very much concerned at it •, and faw no poffibility of repairing this lofs. Some one, however, had found thefe papers, which the fchech had feized, in order to make his advantage of them. He had taken care not to fhew them at firft. He was perfuaded, that we fhould think our- felves at any time very happy in being able to pur- chafe them again ; and he was willing to try before- hand other methods, to get fome thing from us. When he faw that he could obtain nothing, he at laftj fhewed the papers, and offered to reftore them for twenty fevillans. I gave him for anfwer that I . acljj O 2 Xjt vhed 196 TRAVELS IN EGYPT vifed him to keep them ; that I had no longer any - need of them •, and that I had found the paper which I was the moft follicitous about. I forbad the valet to talk to him any more about it, and ordered the reys to unfallen the barque, and to put off from Ihore. They immediately began to execute this order; but the fchech, who did not find his account in it, fell, with fome Arabs, upon the failor, who was untying the cord, and hindered him from performing his of- fice. We ran to his afliftance. W-e applied, on the right hand and the left, luch rough blows with the butt ends of our guns, that the fchech and the Arabs were obliged to quit their hold. The barque got after that into the current, and we went on as if we were no longer anxious about the papers. This was not what the fchech wanted. He con- tinued to follow us along the fhore till the night began to come on. He then cried out to us to put to land ; that he would return us our papers, and would be content with what we fhould give him. We put to fhore indeed ; but we took the precaution of landing no one' but the Jew' and we kept the barque as near to fhore as it was poffible. The papers were reftored for a piafter. I cannot exprefs the joy I had at recover- ing them. We took the Jew aboard again, and ad- vanced on by the oar, till about nine in the evening, when we were obliged to put to fhore between Gamola and Sof.s. The wind had rifen fo violent, that the barque could not Hand againft it. wk’ EDNESD ^ Y ’ 5 th F ebruary - fc- AT fun fifing we refumed the oar, and we arrived t by eleven o’clock at - Ell HeiTa. This village is oppofite Negadi. We there Hopped becaufethe wind was become too Itrong. • We were no more than a league difbant from i Giera Joes. There are in this place fome anti- ! 'quities, which I fliould have been glad to go and fee ; but . AND NUBIA. 197 but my journey the preceding day hindered me from fatisfying myfelf. Towards noon, at the time we were all retired into the tent, excepting fome that had gone on Ihore, a young boy, the fon of the reys, and already almoft as great a rafeal as his father, took it into his head to play with our guard gun. He managed it in fuch a man- ner, as at laft to difeharge it. The ball made a great hole in the barque, fet fire to our tent, and had like to have killed one of our people ; but by the greateft good fortune in the world, the croud, that runs to you whenever they fee a barque arrive, had retired ; otherwife certainly fome one muft have been killed or grievoufly wounded. In* the afternoon, the wind having fallen confider- ably, we fet out upon our voyage ; and in the evening we landed a little to the north of Schechhie. Thursday, 6 th of February. AS foon as it was day the reys awakened all his people, and gave them notice that they muft imme- diately fet out. The pilot was not of this opinion. They quarreled. A great difpute arole betwixt them, and the affair would have gone further, if we had not approached to put an end to the fray. They betook themfelves to the oar till noon, when there arofe a high wind, which obliged 11s to ftop at Ebbenuut, The reys afked us at this place the per- miftion of turning off his pilot. We eafily confented to it, becaufe we knew that he was not worth much. This permiftion being obtained, they went before the cadis of Ebbenuut. The pilot loft his caufe, and the half of his wages. He came afterwards on board to take his cloaths, and at length went away,',' We continued all the day in this place •, for the wind was to the north, and too ftrong to be able to advance. O3 • Friday, i$$ TRAVELS IN EGYPT Friday, 7 th of February. « THE wind continued ftill in the fame quarter, and blov/ed with the fame violence *, moreover our barque had fprung a leak in the prow, and took in a great deal of water. There needed not fo much to retain us here. The reys got a carpenter to come, who to- wards the evening had finilhed remedying the mif- chief. The wind being then a little fallen, we found ourfelves in a condition to advance on till nine o’clock in the evening, when we put to fhore on the weflern border of the Nile, upon the territory of Dander a. I talked of landing to fee an antiquity that is there. No one was of my fentiments. The reys, as ufual, was averfe to it. In vain did I follicit him, and even offer him money ; there was no poffibi- lity of perfuading him. He had probably been guilty of fome villainous prank there, which hindred him from flopping. Our people likewife made a thoufand objections. They were afraid that the barque fhould be detained there, to be made pay fome cuftom-houle duty. They entreated me not to go on fhore. In fine, no one was in a humor to accompany me. There was not fo much as the valet, who excufed himfelf from it, under pretence that he did not know the road. We fhoulcleafily have found it, if any one had been inclined to facilitate the landing. .^Saturday, 8 th of February. A LITT LE after midnight they began to ply the pars; I was afleep. They had taken care not to give , me notice of their departure •, fo that in the morning, at mv awaking, I found inyfelf fo far diftant from D ancieja, that there -were no longer any hopes of feeing an antiquity, which however, next to Thebes, holds the firfl jplajse in my opinion, without excepting thofe • on the fide of the cataradl. I was really mortified at AND NUBIA. i 99 it ; and I could not forbear to let my company per- ceive the difpleafure they had given me •, but every one excufed himfelf in the beft manner that he could d . Towards noon there was a great deal of wind'. However, as the current was very ftrong, we did not put to fliore till towards the evening near to Reiesie. J Dr.. Pccocke has given an account of the ruins at Dandcra. “ In this city they were great worihipers of Isis and Venus; to each of which deities they had a temple From the many heaps of ruins that are feen, the city appears to have been large; they extend about a mile from eaft to weft, and half a mile from north to fouth. The town has been much frequented fince the time of its ancient fplendor, for the buildings are almoft filled up with allies and rubbifh; they feem to have lived much in and about the temples, and to have built there little houfes of unburnt brick near them ; particularly there are feveral on the top of the great temple, probably erefted there for coolnefs by night during the fummer feafon ; but as this temple is but two hundred feet long, and a hundred and forty five broad, any one may judge with wha,. reafon it has been faid, that the temple is fo large that a city was built on it. The chief remains of buildings are very near to one another. There are two gates and four temples. The grand temple is entire, except that fome apartments which feem to have been at top are deftroyed, and fix or feven of the rooms below art intirely filled up. There are ten flights of flairs to the top ; at the fixth is a room, and near the top are rooms from which there a t fix flops to the top of the temple. The particular large capital < > the pillars, has over it a fquare ftone, with a compartment of re- liefs on each fide, in the beft tafte and workmanlhip of any I havt feen in Egypt, and are exquifitely fine, infomuch that I conclude they rm»ft have been executed by one of the beft Greek fculptors. At the ends of the grand room are four ftories of hieroglyphics, in feven compartments, each having two or three figures of men in it, fome of which are defaced. There are alfo four ftories of hie- roglyphics on the outfide ; and probably there were five both within and without, before the ground was raifed. Coloflal figures are cut on the outfide of the fouth end, five of them together, and two, more beautiful than the others, at each corner. Round the top of this building there are feveral fpouts, with an ornament over them of the hea‘d and fhoulders of the fphynx : this, no doubt, was the temple of Isis, as may be concluded from the ca- pitals, which are fiiaped like the head ofthat deity j| The temple of Venus, we may fuppofe, has been deftroyed.” Obfervations on Egypt, pag. 86. O 4 Sunday, 200 TRAVELS IN EGYPT Sunday, g th of February. AS foon as the. day began to appear, we put off from fhore. The wind very loon began to blow ftrong ; but we did not flop however till towards noon, in the neighbourhood of Hau. There is near this city an heap of Hones, the remains of an antique edifice entirely ruined. I landed to fee the city, where 1 remarked, that they had em- ployed for the building of the houfes pieces of columns and other Hones taken out of fome ancient edifices. I fet out for vifiting the ruins I had perceived •, but it was impolfible for me to arrive thither. The wind was fo Hrong, and raifed fo much fand, that there was no polfibility of keeping one’s eyes open. I was abfolutely obliged to return back again. A calm having returned towards the evening, we plied again the oar ; and though we had afterwards a very dark night, we continued to advance fo far, that about eleven o’clock at night we had already paffed Bag jura. At a fmall difiance below this place we firuck upon a bank of fand, where we continued till he next day, Monday, 10 th of February. OUR people laboured hard to get off the barque. They went all into the water in order to lift it up. The reys aflified them with a long perch, but it broke, and he fell into the water. We drew him out ; and we began to Lmake other efforts, which at laff put the barque afloat. As the crew had extremely fatigued themfelves in this work, we made to fhore to let them reff. After fome time we applied again to the oar, and we arrived at Sauaggel. In this place the reys took in aprovi- fion of brambles for burning. The foil that is culti- vated in the neighbourhood of this village has no more than 201 AND NUBIA. than fifty paces in breadth. The mountains begin beyond, and we perceive there a great number of grottos and divers quarries. In order to continue our voyage, we took our courfe on the eaftern fide of the Nile ; and we had a great deal of difficulty to advance forwards. The bed of the river had changed this year, and had thrown banks of fand acrofs the p adage. We went over three of them with much labour, and we found ftill fome others be- fore us. The reys was obliged to go, from time to time, on fhore, to be informed of the depths of water. They gave him hopes, that, after he ffiould be a little further advanced, there would be water enough. We took courage upon that, and fometimes we made ufe of the oar, and fometimes had recourfe to the cord, ac- cording as it was requifite. By this means we got free from the banks, and made fo much difpatch, that towards the evening; we had reached to Samhuud. We call; anchor in the middle of the Nile, waiting for the day break. Tuesday, n th of February. IN the morning at fix o’clock we returned to the oar, and went on at a good rate, becaufe we had not • much wind. We were already, by nine o’clock, near to ^ Belliene. We were obliged in this, place to go along the eaftern fhore of the Nile, becaufe the other fide had fcarce any water this year. When we were got a little further, the wind became ftrong and obliged us to put to land. We there found a barque that was unloading, becaufe it could not pafs the banks of find that crofted the river. In the afternoon the wind having fallen, we refumed our voyage and advanced fo far that we palled beyond Bard is. We found ourfelves then fo perplexed with banks of fand, that we knew not what method to take in order to get out of them. Two large barques loaded 202 TR A VE L S IN EG YPT loaded with fena, had unloaded there already a week before, without being able to put off. We were afraid of finding ourfelves under a necefiity of doing the fame. But we met with a little canoe, and pro- mifed the man that was in it to pay him well if he could find out any pafs to extricate us from this laby- rinth. He fucceeded in it ; and when he had drawn us out of the perplexity, we continued our voyage in fuch a manner that about nine of o’clock in the evening we arrived at Girce, or Tschirche. Wednesday, 12 th of February. IN the morning we landed, in order to get in fome pravifions. One of the fathers of the hofpital begged of us a paffage to go to Cairo, and we granted it to him with pleafure. The bey of Tfchirche was not yet returned ; but the prince of Achmiin was^ in this city, and was to go to Bardis in order to hold a general afiembly of all the Arab fchechs. We were ready to depart, and thought that nothing could delay us. But our reys and the Jew valet had occafioned us a great deal of hindrance. Inflead of declaring at the cuflom-houfe a load of thirty ardebs , they had declared no more than four. The cuflom- houfe officers eafily perceived it upon making a vifit, infomuch that they flopped the barque, which could not be let at liberty, but by paying for thofe to whom the merchandife belonged. We fent for our reys, who had taken care before-hand to be out of the way. He was too well known in this place to fhew himfelf. He had the? precaution, however, to engage a pilot who came on board. All the afternoon palled away in repairing the fault committed by our two dealers in dates. The di- rector of the cuflom-houfe himfelf came to our barque, and after fome compliments he let us know, that he EL was AND NUBIA. 203 was very forry to require us to open fome of our cof- fers. “ A report, added be, is fpread through the town, that you have with you abundance of chefts full of arms ; and I believe that, for your fecurity and for mine, the beft way is for you to open fome of them.” We found his requeft reafonable, and did not hefjtate a moment to fatisfy him. We gave him the choice of the chefts •, he caufed two of them to - be opened, in prefence of the cuftom-houfe officers and of the other perfons that had attended him. He found there only things necefiary for our voyage; and he afterwards took leave of us in a very civil manner. He had no fooner quitted the barque than we de- parted. We made but little way, for we run violently a-ground ; and after having put the barque afloat we made to ffiore on the eaftern border of the Nile, at the foot of thofe high rocks that come quite clofe to the water. - Thursday, 13 th of February. As foon as the moon was up, we fet fail ; and at feven o’clock in the morning we arrived before Messchie. A Greek merchant came to afk us paf- fage ; but as we had not fufficient room, we refufed it to him. Notwithftanding this refufal, he did not forbear to put aboard his cloaths ; for he had a good underftanding with our reys, who had joined us again. We were enraged at this procedure ; and without fur- ther ceremony we had the baggage of this Greek taken out of the barque. He did not acquiefce, but had recourfe to the caiinakan, who came on board to en- treat us to take this man in. We continued refolute, refufing it, however, in the moft civil manner we could. When he faw that he obtained nothing by entreaties, he began to talk high ; but getting no- thing neither by that, he came to threats, laying that he would play us fome tricks, that would make us re- _ j* * pent 204 TR AVEL S IN EG YPT pent the having refufed him. We laughed at him. We were no longer at Derri. We knew the coal); ; and fo little an officer was not capable of intimidat- ing us. ■ At eight o’clock in the evening, the prince of Achmiin arrived in a barque, accompanied by fix others. He did not flop long ; he departed a little time after in the fame manner as he came, that is to fay, with the noife of kettle-drums that he had on board. We followed him pretty clofe 5 and we arrived a little before midnight at Achmiin. We there fadened the barque, in order to take up our fathers, who had gone thither by land in the morning. I observed an ifland, which the Nile had formed this year, oppofite to Mefichie, which is on the other fide of the river. The prince of Achmiin had taken polfeffion of it ; but it was difputed him by his neigh- bours, the inhabitants of Uladjachchia, who pretend- ed that it belonged to them, and there was a law-fuit between them. Friday, 14 th of February. THE fathers came and joined us early in the morning. The agent of the prince, and feveral others, who were Roman catholick Chridians, accompanied them to the barque. Thefe latter made us divers little prefents, confiding of bread, dates, and fpirituous li- quors drawn from the fame fruit, &c. We gave them, in return, fome images, Jerufalem chaplets, and other trifles that t were agreeable to them. We took leave of them, and departea, with very fine weather, which continued till five o’clock in the evening. The wind then began to rife, and became very drong. This obliged us to put to aihore at Maraca. The Nile had carried away half of this village. As this accident had happened in the courfe of the year, the reys did not know that the ruins had formed divers A N D N U B I A. 205 divers banks in the Nile. When we applied to the oar, after a few hours we ftruck upon one of thefe banks. Our people attempted at firft to difeng'age the barque, but When they law that their efforts were in vain, they went to reft. Opposite Maraga, the mountains approach very near to the river- and we fee there abundance of grottos. Saturday, 15 th of February. AT break of day, our people threw themfelves into the river, and fwam to the land, in order to draw off our barque by means of a cord. They fucceeded in it. We then made the beft of our way, and we had very foon paffed Rejeyna. 1 had agreed with the reys that he fhould flop at Gau Scherkie. I was willing to fee an ancient temple which is in this place. The imprudence of our failors baulked me of the hope, with which I had flattered myfelf. The inhabitants of divers villages, fituated along the Nile, have a nick-name, that is made ufe of for water language. In approaching Gail Scherkie, our rowers rallied in this manner fome in- habitants of the place, whom they perceived on the border of the Nile. Thefe piqued at the inlult called to others ; and in a trice there appeared on the border of the river above fifty Arabs, armed with good flicks. They invited us to land amongft them, and told us plainly, in what manner they had a defign .to regale us. Our rowers, who found them above their match, and who knew that the Arabs of Gau Scherkie can- not bear raillery, were unwilling to land there. Nei- ther did I prefs them to do it. I had no great del] to engage in their quarrel. We paffed therefore beyoi\ 1 it, and arrived in the night at Nechcheele. We attempted almoft immediately to depart. But we did not know the depth of th6 y* & Nile. 20 6 TRAVELS IN EGYPT Nile. It had changed its courfe this year. We ftruck at firft upon fome (tones, and a little time after upon fome others. We got oh' however-, and to avoid the like inconveniencies, and perhaps fome worfe misfor- tune, we caft anchor at about a quarter of a league from thence, in order to wait till day-break. Sunday, 16 th of February. WE weighed anchor as foon as the day began to appear : we continued our voyage and paffed before Catea. We remarked that almoft half of the vil- lage had been carried away by the Nile this year. We perceived in fome places the tops of palm-trees, and the roofs of houfes, which appeared above the water. It feems that the Arabs do not concern themfelves much about the lofs of their houfes but it is not fo with regard to the lands, which the river takes away from them, and bellows elfewhere. They regret them much, and this caufes great law-fuits, and fometimes even wars amongll the Arab princes. At ten o’clock in the morning, we arrived at Siuut. There was to be in this place a bazar, or market. We went thither ; but it was yet too early ; and the weather likewife was too fine to lofe it. We. returned therefore back, and immediately put off from Ihore a . - a Near this place was found a very great natural curiofty, which is mentioned in the hiftory of the academy of fciences at Paris. “ Mr. Dodart having received from Mr. Lippi, a licentiate of the faculty of phyfick, a letter dated from Siout, in the Upper Egypt, the teth ofSeptember, 1 704, and which contained a angular fad, communicated it to the company. Mr. Lippi found upon the mountains of Siout, at the entrance of a vaft cave, a body that was truly Hone, of an irregular figure, but intirely porous, which he had the curiofity to open. He was very much furprifed to fee it all divided into oval cells of three lines in breadth and four in length, placed in all diredions with regard to one another, no ways communicating with each other, lined all on the inlide with a very delicate membrane ; and, what At A N D N U B I A. 207 At fun fet, we found ourfelves betwixt two iflands, and the pafiage there is extremely dangerous, as well on account of the current, which is there very ftrong, as becaufe there are divers banks of fand. We faw there a barque that had lately been loft. At ten o’clock in the evening, we were near to Monfaluut. As foon as the cuftom-houfe barque perceived us, fhe fired a mufket to give us notice to put to land. If we had had no merchandizes on board, we fhould have been immediately difpatched j but the curfed dates flopped us till the next day, Monday, 17 th of February. I N the morning, the cuftom-houfe duties having been paid, we put off from fnorej and we foon reached to Umel Gusuer. The inhabitants of this place do not pafs for very honeft people ; there is no depen- dence upon them. The reys was willing to land at is the moll marvellous, containing each either a worm, a maggot, or a fly perfedlly refembling a bee. The worms were very hard and folid, and might be confidered as petrified ■, neither the maggots, nor flies were fo , but only dried and well preferved like ancient mummies. The flies had in many places nnder them little oval grains, which feemed to be eggs. There was at the bottom of abundance of cells, a thick, blackilh, and very hardened juice, which appeared red when held up againfl the light, wa$ very fweet, made the fali P- 57 Areb, v. ii. p. 10 *] Arega , ib. p. I .) O J Arment, formerly Htrmonthis , ib. P . 84. i* 4 jMf Afmdi 'lEf TABLE OF banilhed by the angel ihael, ib. p. 42 v. i. p. 92 , v. ii. p. $7 n, ib. p. 86, 191 ib. p. 48 » P- 5 1 -Etinabi, v. i. p. 78. v. ii, . 11 Attuaen, v. ii. p. 91 Author , his arrival and abode at Cairo, ib. p. 3. his licknefs at the fame place, p. 4. atLux- xor, p. 6i. at Efnay, p. 87. his departure for the Upper Egypt, p. 10. his return to Cairo, p.211. Danger he is in at Cairo, p. 4. at Luxxor, p. 71. at Efnay, p. 88. at Girfche, p. 155. at Derri, 147, &c. The Journal of his voyage to the Upper Egypt, p 9. his letter to .Martin Folkes, Efq ; v. i. p. 131 B. B ashaw of Egypt, his power and office, vol. i. p. 91 Bacchus, 'Head of Bacchus, v. ii. p. 81 Backfifch, what it fignifies, v. ii. P- 7 1 Baganes, ib. p. 50 Bagher-J ufej, fee Califch. Bagjura, v. ii. p. 51, 200 Baths, v. i. p. 22, 64 Bamhan, v. ii. p. 95 Bananas, fee' Adam' s fig-tret s. Banks of fand in the middle of the Nile, v. ii. p. 26, 91, 200, 201, 205 — — fee Gijfer. Baram-Cackeff, fee Cachcjf \ Baranga, v. ii. p. 23 Barajb our , 1 3 J , Barajbura , ib. p, 44 Bardakes, v. i. p. 81 Bardis, v. ii. p. 50, 20 1 Barque, hired at Cairo to carry the author to Effuaen, ib. p. 9. ftrikes upon banks of fand, p. 26, 91. x^nother hired at Effuaen for the fecor.d cata- raft, p. 107. ftrikes upon a rock, p. 135. A third hired at Effuaen for Cairo, p. 173. is built of fycamore wood, p. 177. ftrikes upon banks of fand, p. 200, 201, 205 Barques, manner of drawing them down from the cataraft, v. ii. p. 176 Ba/altes, evident to the fight what the ancients meant by it, ib. p. 214 Bajjatiin, v. ii. p. 1 1 Beard, fwearing by the beard, ib. p. 63, 149, 187 Bebe, ib. p 23 Bedaeg , ib.p. 23 Bedouins, fee Arabs. Bee-hi74 Cacheff of Efnay, ib. p. 87, I 83 Cacheff -lbrim, the new cacheff of Nubia, v. ii. p. 96 Cackeff-Salem, chief of the re- bels, ib. p. 4 Cadis, judge in law-fuits, ib.p. 183 Cafar, his account of Alexan- dria, v. i. p. 1. his palace, ib. p. 6. fheds tears at the death of Pompey, p. 32 Caff'etah , v. i. p. 93. v. ii. p. 96 Cairo, Grand Cairo, v. i. p. 61 to 71. Old Cairn, p. 71 Califch, canal dug for convey- ing the water of the Nile, af- ter its overflowing, v. i. p. 62, 73, 89. v. ii. p. z8, 40, 51 Califch of Cleopatra, v. i. p. • 8, 27 Cambyfes, carries away the gold circle of Os yman dias, v. i. p. 133. v. ii. p. 66. In th time of Camby fes, they no Ion ger underflood hieroglyphics, v. i. p. 1 36 Camel, rock fo called, v. ii. p. 2 3 1 Camps, (flying camps of) Be- douins, v. i. p. 17 Caravans, v. ii. p. 3, 29,33 Carnac, formerly Thebes, its an- tiquities, ib. p. 61. Carp ; Fifhing of carp in the middle of the firft cataradf, v. ii. p. 1 1 5 Carullo-Merefel, v. i. p. 53 Caffarna, v. ii. p. 5 3 Catacombs, ib. p. 17 Catarafl, v. ii. p. 1 14, 1 15 Catea, ib. p. 34, 206 Catharine, (faint) her church and bank at Alexandria, v. i. p. 12 Circle of gold of Osymandias, v. i. p. 133. v. ii. p. 66 Chain. The chained-mountain, ib. p. 92, 185 Chambers in the firfl pyramid, v. i. p. 1 t8. upon the moun- tain Tfchebat-Ell-Kofferi, jv. ii. p. 34 | Chancellor, (French) at Alexan- dria, v. i p. 43 Cheops (king) his wicked ne A and pyramid, ib. p. 102 Cicero, his account of the Cata- dupa, v. ii. p. 1 17 Ci ferns at Alexandria, v. i. p. 19. Clarke , m8 T A B L E O F Clarke, (Dr. Samuel) animad- verfion on his plan of Alex- andria in Caesar’s commen- taries, ib. p. 33. Obferva- tion on his conjedture for fix- ing the age of Homer, v. ii. p. 62 Clayton (Bilhop of Clogher) re- mark on a paflage in his an- fvcer to Lord Bolingbrohe, V. i. P- M 4 Clement of Alexandria, his ex- planation of the hieroglyphi- cal hawk, &c. v. ii. p. 128 Coffee-pots, v. i. p. 82 Colloffano, v. ii. p. 23, 2C9 Column of Pompey, fee Pompey. Coloffs with Greek and Latin inferiptions, v. ii. p. 75 Coloffes , p. 69 Combat, between bey Soliman, and bey Schierres, fee Bey. — — between fome Barbarins, v. ii. p. 1 78. Confines of Egypt and Nubia, ib. p. 131 ConjeBure of the author on the prefer vation of the antiquities of Egypt, v. ii. p. 172. on the ancient Memphis, v. i. p. 75. on the pyramids of Sa- karra, v. i. p. 1 30. conjec- ture of Mr. Greaves on the fepulchre of Osymandias, v. i. p. 133. Conjedlure of Mr. Scheuchzer, on the ihells upon the pyramids, v. i. P- 1 1 3 . . Conquef of Egypt by the caliphs of Africa, anno 9-0 ; and by Selim the firft, anno 1517, v. :i, p. 90 Conful (French) at Alexandria, ib. p. 43, Ufc. Copti at Alexandria, ib. p. 42. at Negadi, v. ii. p. 58. pa- tiiarch of the Copti, v. i. p. 43. a Copti prieit companion of the author in his voyage,-- v. ii. p. 9, 35. Sees of Copti bifhops, p. 47, 49 Copti convents, v. ii. p. 12,20, 24, 25, 28, ksfe. 45. Privi- leges of the Copti in the terri- tory of the prince of Achmun, v. ii. p. 47 Convent, ( Pulley convent) ib. p. 32 Coramanes, ib. p. 37 Cormorants , ib. p. 209 A Courtezan at the market of Mefchie, v. ii. p. 47 Crocodile, a pacific animal and not dreaded, v. ii. p. 163. fome fifty feet in length, p. 61 Crocodilopolis , fee Demegraed. Convent of figs, v. i. p. 79 Curtius (Quintus) his account of the building of Alexandria, ib. p. 1 . Cuflom-houfe of Alexandria, ib. P- 39 Cyprus tree of Old Cairo, v. i. p. 81 D D ag jour, v. ii. p. 14 Damamin, ib. p. 61 Bandera, formerly Tentyra, ib.' p. 54. its antiquities, ib. p. 198 Bar, ib. 34 Beboude, its antiquities, ib. p. 1 30 Deckke, ib. p.137 Behefcbne, ib. p. 53 Bc'tir, ib. p. 23 Beir- Abuicbhanna , ib. p. 29. A- bufai- Fetn, ib. p. 12. Ell-A- biat, ib. p. 44. Ell-Adovia, ib. p. 12. Ell-Hadie, ib. p. 1 2. Ell-Melac, ib. p. 48. . Etiin, v. i. p. 72. v. ii. p. 1 1. Meymund, v. ii. p. 20. Omali ib. p. 86 Bel/a , 2 19 THE CONTENTS. Delta, or Lower Egypt, v. i. P 53 • *, Deluge, marks of the univerfal deluge, v. ii. p. 31. whether it overwhelmed the pyra- mids, v. i. p. 1 1 3 Demegraed, the ancient Crocodi - lopolis, v. ii. p. 8$ Demfiig, ib. p. 60 Demhiid, ib. p.131 Dendour, Schenk Dendour and Garhe Dendour, ib. p. 1 34. Deriminna, ib. p. 1 1 Derrau, ib. p. 96 Derri or Dir, ib. p (47 Deruth, or Derut Ell-Schcrijf, v. i. p. 53. v. ii. p. 29 Denejle, ib. p. 37 Diana, head of Diana, ib. p. 8t Diodorus Siculus, cited v. i. p. 1 33, 136, 140. cenfured, p. 146. his opinion that Egypt was formerly all fea, p. 54. confutes Herodotus on the caufe of the inundation of the Nile, p. 84. his account of Memphis, p. 76. his abfurd notion concerning the manner of building the pyramids, p. 104. declares exprefsly that the pyramids were defigned for fepulchres, p. 104. his account of the canal cut from the Nile to the Red-fea, v. ii. p. 56. his account of Thebes, p. 63. of the fepulchre of Osy- mandias, p. 64. takes no notice of the vocal ftatue of Memnon, p. 79. defcription of the coilrfe of the Nile, and of the cataraft, p. 1 1 5 . treats as a fable the oracle delivered to the twelve kings, p. 209 Diofpolis (the lefler) fee Gau Scherkie. Dimtnel, v. ii. p 1 3 1 Dinedera, ib. p. 52 Dir, fee Derri. Dirmimund fee Deir-Meimund. Dirp, v ii. p. 52 Difchne, fee Dehefchne. Divan, v. ii. p. 146 Doftors of the law, their office, v.i. p. 9? Drogman, (French) at Alexan- dria, ib. p. 43 1 Dromedaries or camels, v. ii. p. 107 Drought, the extreme drought of the lands ofcEgypt, v. i. p. 87 Dulab, ib. p. 23 Dueeg, ib. p. 90 Dueer-Ait, ib. p. 38 Dung, (pigeons) for manuring land, ib ( p. 20 of cattle, for fal ammo- niac, ib. E. E ASTER of the Turks, v. ii. p. 176 Ebbamit, ib. p. 57, 197 ElU^haziim, ib. p. 27 Ea^ J , fee Giefiret Edahab. Edfu,fovn\zr\y Apollinopolis, v. ii. p. 91 Egypt, overflowed by the Nile, v.i. p. 83, &c. its govern- ment, p. 90, Sec. Elephantine, p. 100. "• El/ugaye, v. ii. p. 23 Ell-Adeime, ib. p. 90 > Ell-Akabbe, ib. p. g Ell-Akaiita, ib. p. 61 tll-Akluraes, ib. p. jz Ell-Ardie , ib. 0 . 86,1191 EU-Aucanie, ib. p. 91 Ell- B abacs, ib. p. 57 Ell-Ba’uut, ib. p. 57 Ell-Eedari, ib. p 3 8 Ell-Belera, ib. p. 92 Eii-Btltal'iifch, v. ii.jp. 50 220 TABLE OF Ell-Berfcbell, ib. p. 29 Ell-Beffalie, ib. p. 91 EH-Bueeb or Seraik, ib. p. 92 Ell-Burtfchen, ib. p. 26 Ell-Ekrat , ib. p. 33 Ell Gaeffer , ib. p. 54 Ell-Ganaan , ib. p. 91 Ell-Gaptara or Gaptara , ib. 97 Ell-Gbaraff, ib. p. 1 2 EU-Gboraen, ib. p. 48 Ell-Gliid, ib. p. 94 Eil-Gouafa, ib. p. 51 Ell-Guraen, ib. p. 1 3 7 Ell-Gffa, ib. p. 30 Ell-Gufuer, orUm-Ell-GuJuer , ib. P- 3 ? Ell-Hammaen, ib. p. 92 E/l-Haigua, ib. p. 48 Ell-Hauuie , ib. Ell-Heff, the Phil Is of the an- cients, its ruins, ib. p. 1 1 6, Sec. EU-Hciks, ib. p. 91 Ell-Hella, ib. p. 57 FM-Kabunia, ib. p. 96 Ell-Kaep, ib. p. 91 Ell-Kajudfcbe, ib. p. 92 Ell-Kalabfche, ib. p. 132 Ell-Kallaha , ib. p. 11 Ell-Kerne, ib. p. 61 Ell-Kilg, ib. p. 91 Ell Kitnan, ib. p. 86 Ell-Kgu/uer, ib. p. 30 Ell-Maabda, ib. p. 32 Ell-Maafrata, ib. p. 33. Ell-Mahamadie, ib. p. 3 2 Ell-Magafch , ib. p. 50 Ell-Motmar, ib. p. 35. E ll-Mottagbara or Metagbera, ib. Ell-Nechcbeele, ib p. 35, 205 Ell-Ret/egaet, ib. p. 84 Ell-Sag , formerly ifland Ele- phantine, ib p. 100 Ell-Sau'vie, ib p. 44 Ell-Scbecb Amer, or Schech Ha- mer, ib. p. 96 Il-Suhadjcbia, ib. p. 40 Ell-T/chelame, ib. p. 84 E U-T/chibbeleen, ib. p. 86 Ell -Toff, or Teffel, v. ii. p. 97 Ell-Wokf, ib. p. cj F Ell-Umbiir, ib. p. 51 Encampment of the bey of Girge, ib. p. 4 s Encreafe of the Nile, fee Nile. Errors of fome ancients on the fourth pyramid, v. i. p. 146 — of a French conful on the column ofPoMPEY, ib. p. 16 • of father Lucas, ib. • of another author, ib. p. 33 Efchmend Ell-Arrab, v. ii. p. 20. E/nay, formerly Latopolis, ib. p. 87, 189 > Effuaen, formerly Syene, ib. p. 97. Aga of Effuaen, fee Aga. Ettueja, ib. Eutfeeg, ib. p. 16, 19 Eunuchs, the trade of the inha- bitants of Denejle confifts in making eunuchs, ib. p. 38 Ewer, v. i. p. 82 F. F AN A L, fee Pharillon . Faris p. 94 Farfiuut, v. ii. p. 52 Fatira , ib. p. 94 Fau, ib. p. 52 Felaques, fee Arabs. Fendouclt, a fort of money, v. i. p. 66 Fefchn, v. ii. p. 23 Fejli ‘ 4 + . , Hieroglyphics painted, v. 1. p. 153. v. n. p. 73, 7; Hieroglyphics, the knowledge of them loft before the time of Cameyses, v. i. p. 134 Hokuer, v. ii. p. 1 37 Homer , his defcription of the diftance of the iftand Pharos, v. i. p. 2 of Proteus’s cave, p. 22 • -of ancient Thebes, v. ii. p. 62 Hofpital of the Fathers de pro- paganda, v. ii. p. 44, 49, 52 Huoddi, v. ii. p. 1 5 Hou/es, country-houfes of the aga of Effuaen, v. ii. p. 168, 169. of the Schorbatfchie in Nubia, ib. p. 140, 141. water houfe at Old Cairo, v. i. p. 7 Huali, fee mafter of the police. Huajla, ib. p. 1 9 Huvaed, v. ii. p. 13 1 Hydraulic (machine) fee Ma- chines. I. J Aniffiaries, corps of militia, v. i. p. 92. think themfelves more privileged than the reft of the fubjefts, v. ii. p. 68. they commonly accompany thofe that go to fee the pyra- mids, v. i. p. 128. one of them accompanied the author into Upper Egypt, and did him great fervices, v. ii. p. 52, 71. difference between the Janiffaries and Affaffs, v. i. p. 92. an adventure of a Janiffary at Alexandria, ib. p. 44 Jars of earth, ib. p. 82 Jafenie, v. ii. p. 52 223 Ibrahim Aga, fee Aga. Jbrim Cacheff, fee Cacheff. Idols, found near the pyramids, v. i. p. I Z2 lnfch'allach, what the word fig- nifies, v. ii. p. 59 1 /ifcription on the pyramids, falfely advanced by Hero- dotus and Diodorus Si- culus, v i. p. 146. in Arabic ofthe M’okkias, ib. p. 74. — on the two coloftes at Luxxor, . * v. ii. p. 74 Inundation ofthe Nile, fee Nile. Jofeph. Joseph’s granary, v. i. p. 72. Joseph’s well, p. 65. Ifiac figures, vol. ii. p. 68, 72 IJlands, formed by the Nile, v. ii. p. 204 IJlands, called Ell-Sag, v. ii. p. 100. Mt.lia, ib. p. 94. Mottagharri, ib. p. 27. Iftand of Pharos, V. i. p. I, 2. of • Rodda, ib. p. 73. Scherona, v. ii. p. 24. Sohorra, p. 26. fee Giefiret. ljraelites, their brick-works in | Egypt, v. j.p. 133 Jews at Alexandria, ib. p. 39 ... Juvenal cited, v. ii. p. 78 • K. \ 3 Vi ff w. K A R D OUS, v, ii. p. 38 - Kellabie, ib. p. 90 Ken auntie, ib. p. 55 Keravafchie, ib. p, 146, 1 60 Kiaja or Kieche, Turkifh colo- nels, v. i. P-. 93 .^ 1 ^. Kiei:, , fee Gienc Kir /car, V. ii. p. 2 8 A’ Knuphis, the ft r pent Knup! ib p. ioi Kofferloyad , ib. p. I 5, 2 It Kcft, ib p.57 Kombujch, ib. p. 23 Kcmgcridc , ib. p. 20 II mrnhu 'mM 224 A T B L Komombu, v. ii. p. 95. its anti- quities, p. 184 Korofcojf, ib. p. 140 Kos, ib. p. 57 Kubaen, ib. p. 137 Kudjuhed, ib. p. 14; Kufr Benem Hammed, ib. p. 25 Kufr Solu, ib. p. 24 Kumbeer, ib. p. 91 'Kuruabilal, ib. p. 61 L. L abyrinth , the famous one near the lake Moeris, v. n. p. 209 at Sakarra, where they buried birds and animals em- balmed, ib. p. 1 3 Lady, the remarkable courage of a lady, ib. p. 5 ;. Lag fas, ib. p. I 5 Lamps and lanterns, v. i. p. 83 Land, the manner of ploughing the land, v. i. p. 84. v. ii. p. 3 6 . Latopohs, fee Rfr.ay. Letter of the author to Martin Folkes, Efq; v. i. p. 131 Letters of recommendation from P J the heads of the government, J V. ii. p. 9, 22, ;8, 98. from the aga of Effuan, p 100, 141. from Cacheff Ibrim, v ii. p. 1 22 % Lingua Franca, v. i. p. 55 Locujis, having hieroglyphics on the forehead, v. i. p. 81 Lucan, cited v. i. p. 3, 31. v. ii. b. 1 16 J --a- father Lucas cited v. i. ’ 6. v. ii. p. 54 an, cited v. i. Pajfages from ’.dent authors, p. xxxviii. '-ten, or Luxxor, the ancient 1 tubes, v.ii. p.6t EOF M. M achines (hydraulic) for watering the land, v. i. p. 84. for croffing the Nile, v. i. p. 81 Magaga, v. ii. p. 24 May ana, ib. p. 24. Magazine of powder at Alexan- dria, v. i. p. 5. Magdfcbar, v. ii. p. 54, 61 Magdfcheradome , ib. p. 86. Magdfchergarona, ib. p. 85 Magfara, ib. p. 2; Magfera, v. ii. p. 29 Mabatniid, ib. p. 86 Maharakka, ib. p. 5 1 Mahbub, a fpecies of money, v. i. p. 66 Mahfara, v. ii. p. I 2 Maidihs, a fpecies of money, v. i. p. 66 Mai/let, (Monf.) cenfured for his account of the column of Pompet, v. i. p. 1 6. his ac- count of the conqueft of E- gypt, p. 90. of the fplendor of the beys, p. 91. of the number of janilfaries and af- fafs, p. 93. his conjeflure con- cerning the ’well of the pyra- mids, p. 1 1 8. of the Sphinx, p. 1 21 Malcki, v. ii. p. 140 Mangabar, ib. p. 3 3 Manjelmufa, ib. p. 12 Mankaritfche, ib. p. 21 Manforia, 94 Maraga, v. ii. p. 40, 204 Marble, piece of marble refem- bling porphyry, v. i. p. 143, another piece loaded with hieroglyphics, ib. p. 16. 31 Mark, church of St. Mark at Alexandria, ib. p. 1 1 Marcafete. The Cacheff of E/nay wants to learn the method of getting THE CONTENTS. getting filver from it, v> ii. p. 184 Martha, convent of St. Mar- tha, v. il. p. 209 Majfer, v. i. p. 61 Majler, grand matter of the police of the Turks, his power, ib. p. 94 Mattai, v. ii. p. 24 Medinet Habu, fee Halu. Meduun, v ii. p. 16 Meimund, ib. p. 20 Melia, fee IJland. Mellaghie, v. ii. p. 23 Mdlanj'i, ib. p. 29 Memnon , the palace of Mh MNoy ib. p. 75. the ttatue of Mem*? KON,'p. 79 Memphis, whether it was built out of the ruins of Thebes ? V. i. p. 134. whether it was founded after the ereftion of the pyramids ? ib. In the place, where Hands atprefent the village of Gize, p. 75. and whether it had in its in- clofure the pyramids of Sakar- ra? p. 1 30 Menahuad, v. ii. p. 1 2 Menie, ib. p. 27, 209 Menefchia, ib. p. 60 Meujelkarag, ib. p. 15 Merafchdeh, ib. p. 53 Merchandises at Cairo, v. i. p. 68 Mercuriales tumuli, v. i. p. 137 Merkeb, a fort of barques, v. i. p. 8i . v ii. p. 1 2 1 Merrefchis, v. ii. p. 38 Mefcbiel-Dabes, ib. p. 28 Mefchte, ib. p. 39 Mefguna, ib. p 14 Mejjawvie, v. ii. p. 90 Mejchie, v. i. p. 140. v. ii. p. 45» 203 Metagbera, fee Ell-Mottaghara. Mettani, fee Valley, Voi. II. 225 Michael, St. Michael, v. ii. p, 23 Mikkias, fee Mckk'as. Militia, corps of Militia intro- duced by Selim I. v. i. p. 92 Mills, made ufe of for watering the land, ib. p. 86 Mifara, v. ii. p. 30 MiJJanda, ib. p. 1 5 MiJ/ionaries , Miflionary Fathers, 1 * companions of the author in his voyage, ib. p. 9 Moharraka, ib. p. 137 Mokkias, where they made ob- fervations with regard to the increafe of the Nile, v. i. p. 74. its Arabic infcription, ib. the Mokkias of Antinoe, v. ii. p. 28 Mole, the mole of the ports of Alexandria, v. i. p. 4. Its two zigzages, ib. Mommies, or Mummies, the > mummy country, v. i. p. 12’' commerce of mummies, v. P -. l 3 ' Monfaluut,v . ii p. 31, 207 Monies, current at Cairo, v. i. p. 67 Morrada, port of the firft cata- PS raft, v. ii. p. 1 zi Mountains of Abuffode, ib. p. 3V of holy Hermits, or of Bern haffein, p. 23. of the chaii or Efchebal-Ejfelfele, p. 92. o Komombu, p. 93. of Ne/let- Abonuur, p. 23. of Sober ck Uladjachchia, p. 49. ofTfche- bat-Ell-Kofferi, p. 34. of Tfcln - be l Monna, p. 52 Mount-Sina, whether they tranf- ported from Mount Sina the ttones, which were employed in the building of the pyra- mids ? v, i. p. 143 Mufti, his power and policy, ib. p. 95 Ci Mugna, I 226 T A B L Magna, v. ii. p. i 2 Mufeum, tiie mufeum of the an- cient Alexandria, v. i. p. 33 it lufihpha, brother of Osman Be v, v. ii. p. 20 N. N ag ad 1, v. n p. 57 Nag el- Abdeddein , ib. p. ' 92 ^ Naghal-Hagjemufe, ib p. 1 39 Necbcheele, lee Ell-Necbcbeel. Nerarntfch, v. ii. p. 50 -■ Nejlet-Abotiuur, fee mountains. - ■■ Ameris, v. ii. p. 84 ' Afcherijf'xh. p. 50 ■ Ell-Hemma, ib.p. 38 ■■■ Ell Raramu, ib.p. 25,208 Tobafis, ib. p. 24 N etfchajchicllaua , ib. p. 32 Net c&che-Ell- Abiid, ib. p. 52 p Nile, its increafe and decreafe are obferved on the Mokkias, V. i. p. 73. time of its increafe, C 87 its inundation the caufe j f the fertility of the country, p. 86. this river carries no fhell-filh in its whole courfe, i V P" 1 1 3 - ^ ts rood dangerous Ffcalfage, v. ii. p. 133. it ■H? 'forms every year new idands W - . in its courfe, p. 204. lingular manner of eroding the Nile, , p. 145, 164. fources of the Nile and length of its courfe, if P-i'S 1 Nubia, beginning and end of I ' Nubia, v, lk p. 13 1 Cache ft' of Nubia, fee Cached" Jbrim. If ... ■ f~~\BEL!SKS o; t'a!'- a. v..'i. p. 6. other obdilks JL. EOF at Carnac and Lukoreen, v. I, p.153. v. ii. p. 63. 2 XE£uaen, ▼ • i. p. 153. on the ifland Ell-Heijf, ib. at Matareen, p. ; »> 4 Objervations on the obelilks and their defeription, p. 1 52 Oniarne, fee Benehamraen. Ommelut, v. ii. p. 56 Omar -Bey, fee Bey. Ofchar, v. ii. p. 121 O [man -Bey, fee Bey. Ofymandyas, the circle of gold on his tomb, v. i. p.. 133, v. ii. p. 64 Ovens, for hatching chicken, v. i. p. 80 P. P AC HO ME, St. Pachome, v. ii. p. 60. Paintings of the Trinity, apoftles, &c. v. ii. p. 144 Palace of Caesar, v. i. p. 6. of Cleopatra, p. 10, 28. of Memnon, v. ii. p. 80 Palm-Trees, foreft of palm trees, fee Forejl. Pajfages difficult and dangerous on the Nile, v. ii. p. 30, &c. *39, 1 4 5,207. Pajfages of the fir ft pyramid, v. i. p 1 1 6, &c. Patriarch (Coptic) his prefump- tion, v. ii. p. 42 Palridges, a fort of patridges on the border of the Nile, v. ii. p. 1 8 Paufanias, cited v. i. Pajfages frotn ancient authors, xxv. v. ii. p. 43 Pharaoh's hen, v.ii. p.184 Pharos , fee IJland. Pharillon the great, v. i. p. 3. the little, p. 4 Phil* THE GO P 7//,^ of the ancients, p. 123 Philojlratus cited, v. i. Paffages from ancient authors, p. xxxv. Piajler, imaginary piafter at Cai- ro, v. i. p. 66 Pigeon-houfes, v. ii. p. 21 Pike of Conftantinople, accor- ding to Mr. Norden, v. i. p. 68. according to Dr. Po- cocke, p. 85. according to Dr. Shaw, p. 85 Pike, a mark of dignity, v. ii. p. 1 80 Pirates on the Nile, ib. p. 30) 207 Pleading, manner of pleading in Nubia, ib. p. 1 41 Pliny, his accountof Pharos, v. i. p. 2. fixes the place of the an- cient Memphis, and defcribes fome remarkable trees there, p. 78. defcribes the Egyptian Fig, p. 79. his account of the height of the firft and fecond pyramids, p. 119. his defcrip- tion of the bafaltes, p. 147. v. ii. p. 214. afligns a par- ticular ufe of the obelifk in the Campus Martins, v. i. p. 1 ;o. his account of Tenty- ritee, v. ii. p. 54. his difbe- lief of fome wonders reported atThebes, p. 66. his account of the labyrinth, p. 213. of the vocal ftatue of Memnon, p.xxxvii. of the collection of paf- fages from ancient authors, his account of the fituation of Syene, v. ii. p. 97 Plough, the defign of a plough for cultivating the land, v. i. p. 84. drawn by fix oxen, v. ii. P- 8 5 Plutarch, his account of the de- firudtion of the library at Alexandria, v. i. p. 4. of the NTENTS. 227 hieroglyphical Hawk, v. i'» p. 128 Pococke, (Bifhop of OfTory) his account of the ciilerns at Alex- andria, v. i. p. 12. of the di- menfions of the column of Pompey, p. 14. of the cata- combs, p. 17. of the canal of Canopus, v. i p. 17. of Rofetto, p. 35. of Grand Cairo, p. 62. of the value of t the Medine and Parat, p. 66. of the rotalo of Alexandria , p. , 67. of the fituation of Mem- at phis, p. 76. of the caufe of 1 the inundation of the Nile, p. 84. of the different mea- fures called Pikes, p. 87. of the pyramids, p. 106. of the Sphinx, p. 120. of the cata- comb of birds, v. ii. p. 13. of the ifland Elephantine, p. 69. of the cataradl:, p. 1 1 7 - of the ifland Phila, p. 1 24. pafles by Mr. Norden in fail- ing up the Nile, and his ac- countof the ftone Mr. No.r- J den mentions, p. 188. of the ^ temples near Efnay, p. 189. j of the ruins of Dandera, p. 1 99. of Antinopolis, p. 20S Policy of the Turks, v. i. p. 99.' of the Muffties and dodtors of the law, ib. p. 95 Pompey, column cf Pom pe y, y. i. p. 5, 13, 28 Pomponius Mela, agrees with He- rodotus in regard to the fize of the llones. of the firfl pyramid, v. i. p. 193, 141. his account of the hundred gates at Thebes,' v. ii. p. 64 Ponds for keeping the water of the Nile, v. ii. p. 56 Pope (Mr. : his millake in tranf lating a pafiage in the Od ys sey, v. i, p. 22 a 2 Porf V R. .228 TABL * 7 A- , Per/ of Africa and AJia , ib. p. 2. of the firlt cataradl, fee Mor- rada. Fortes, military Turkilh claffes, ib. p. gz Portico, an admirable one of ancient Thebes, v. ii. p. 75 Proclus his opinion of the agro- nomical ufe of the pyramids, ib. p. 140 Pulley, Pulley convent, v. ii. p. 3 2 Prefents, made to the Aga ofEf- fuaen, v. ii. p. 100, 104. to his fon, p„ 106, 182. to his brother, p. 173. to Baram C acheff, p. 149, 151, 152, 1 53» 1 5^> ’ 60, 162 to the Cacheff of Efnay, p. 96, 1 84. by the Schorbatfchie of Nubia, p. 1 41 Priejl (Coptic) companion of the author in his voyage, fee Copti. Prejudices of the Egyptians with regard to the Francs that tra- f vel in their country, v. ii. p. 3, 58, 89, 102, 138, 148, Wt.151, 184 ^ Prite of provifions, ib. p. 46, 104, 134, 163, of powder - and fhot, p. 22, of wood, p. *- 104 Propaganda, Fathers of the Pro- paganda, fee Hofpital. ■ Pyramids, ranked in the number fe of the feven wonders of the A ’■ world, and their defeription, r v. i. p. to 1. of Cestius at Cn Rome,ib. Pyrajnidographia, fee Greaves. r :x> iQs. UAY, an antique quay, near Scherck Abohuer, v.ii. p. 133. EOF R AIN in Egypt, v. i. p. 83, 140. v. ii. p. 20 Rakkaba, v. ii. p. 96 Rammadan, fee Fejlival. Raphael, v. ii. p. 42 Reaping, manner of reaping, lb. p. 36 Redefie, ib. p. gz Rejefie, ib. p. 52, 199 Rejeyna, ib. p. 39, 203 Rejoicings at Cairo, on cutting the grand Califch, v. i. p. 65 Rejervoirs, fee Cijierns. Rice, manner of threlhing rice, v. i. p. 80 Rigga, v. ii. p. 16 Rodda, ib. p. 28 Rock, called the camel, fee Camel. Romadie, v. ii. p. 92 Rofetto, v.i. p. 3;, 53 Roug, what it fignifies, v. ii. p. 136 Rules for travellers in Egypt, v. i. p. 53, Sec. v. ii p. 4, 141 S. S A BAGURA, v. ii. p. 137 Sababinath, fee Grottos. Sabua, v.ii. p. 139 Sachet , ib. p. 33 Saeida, ib. p . 53 Sahdaeb, ib. p. 13 1 Sagh Ell Bag jura, ib. p. 51 Saide, ib. p. 91 Saint, Arab faint, called Scbeclt Harridi, his hi dory and his tomb, v. ii. p. 40. the tomb of another faint, p. 134. fe- veral tombs of Mahometan faints, p. 96. a comical be- nedidtion of a Mahometan faint, p. 105. two naked faints at Rofetto, v. i. p- 36. at Mefchie, THE CONTENTS. 229 ? Mefchie, v. ii. p. 47. four hundred faints, holding a con-, grefs, p. 52 Sauk, a fort of Turkifh veflel, v. i. p. 5Z Sakarra, its pyramids, labyrinth, and commerce of mummies, v. ii. p. 1 3 Sakiedimufa, ib. p. 28 Sakkietmekki, ib. p. 1 1 Salamalek, the common faluta- tion of the Mahometans,, ib . p. 97, 1 1 3 Salchie, ib. p. 16 Salem Cacheff, fee Cacheff. Sallaem and Sallaem Ell Odder , v. ii. p. 32 Samaluud, ib. p. 25 Sambuud, ib. p. 50 Sandwich, my lord Sandwich cited, v. i. p. 146 Sarcophagus in the firfi pyramid, fee Urn. Sardfch-Ell Farras, v. ii. p. 130 Sauuda, ib. p. 27, 209 Sau Adne, ib. p. 50 Sauaggel, ib. p. 51 Saunned-Ell Majluub, ib. p. 19, 2.10 Ein/chiedame, ib. p. 24 Schechjiath, ib. p. 24 Schach Tamifch, ib. p. 32 Schagab, ib. p. 86, 191 Scharaque, ib. p. 4 8 Schaurie, ib. p. 52 Schech, an Arab fchech pays re- fpedi: to the recommendation of Osman Bey, ib. p. 57. another wanted to hinder the author from making his ob- fervations at Lukkoreen, p. 71. another pays him a vifit at Effuaen, p. 181. another at Carnac, p. 194. another finds the papers of the author, P -194 Schech- Abode, anciently Antinoe, V. ii. p. 28, 208 — Atmaen, p. 12 — Berreeck, p. 50 — F/aeck, : p. 44. Ghadder, v. i. p. 53.. A — Hamer, fee Ell Schech Amer. . Schech Harridi, fee Saint . - Schech'-Hie, v. ii. p. 5 7, 197. — Seinetdien, p. 39 — Ffchibe- rim, p. qz---Mebadir, p. 51 Schemede-Refchied, v. ii. p. 137 Schernt Ell Uah, ib. p.130 Schenduie, ib. p. 21 Scherarbie, ib. p. 24 Scherauna, ib. p. 90 Scherck-Abohuer, ib. p. 133.-- Dendour, ib. p. 134, 163.-- Girjche, fee GWfche .—Merie , p. 134. Merruveau, p. 1 34- — Seliin, p. 38. Uladjachchia, fee Mountains. Schereina, v. ii. p. 25 Scherona, ib. p. 24, 210. fee ljlands. / Scheuchzer cited, v. i. p. 1 1 3 Schiaturma, v. ii. p. 1 40 Schiim, ib. p. 1 4 Schiub, v. ii. p. 34 Schoback, ib. p. 1 3 Schoraffa, fee Arabs. Schorbat/chies, their power a office, v. i. p. 94. the Sch batfchie of Nubia, v. ii. p.14 affeinbles the powers of Nul-* 1161 ! • •• and Derri, p. 147. puts a to the agreement that } oof- been made with Baram Cs. P cheff, p. 149, 1 51. onrecer- ing fome prefents makes n-; more opposition, p. 1 53 Schugeria, v. ii. p. 31 Scirce, ib. p. 23 Sciron, at prefcnt called Deiir,"~ ib. p. 2; Sr gale, ib p. 28 1 Sikenhucr, ib. p. 60 Se/emic, ib. p. 52 Selim the firft makes the con 1 ', , of Egypt, v. i. p. 9- * 4 .a- blifhes there a new, ' . "1 of government, p. 90, £ Q 3 JEST dual, of I' 230 TAB . ;A Seluah, v. ii. p. 92 Bp: Senabo, ib. p. 30 V Senaepji, ib. p. 33 1 Seneca, his defcription of the li- brary at Alexandria, v. i. p. 4. of the cataradls, v. ii. p. 1 17. of Phila, p. 123 Senemie, v. ii. p. 85 Senfchiacs, field of battle of the Senfchiacs, ib. p. 24. a Sen- fchiac, cheated by fome pi- E-i rates, p. 30 Seraik, fee Ell Bueeb. ~ Seraphim, v i. p. 33, 34 JffiSerniig, v. ii ."“p . 90 Serpent, the ferpent Knuphis, 101 . the ferpent Schech-Ha- ridi, fee Schecb-Haridi. * - Serrerie , v. ii. p. 25 ' Shaw (Doftor) his account of the column of Pompey, v. i. p. 1 5. of Grand Cairo, p. 64. ,f> of the weather at Alexandria for two months, p. 83. of the Nile, p. 87. of the ufe and intent of the pyramids, p.103. ' of the great diverfity offhell- Tjf ( fifh in the Red Sea, p. 113 _£rbelh lying on the plain of the '•f. * pyramids, v. i. p. 1 13 _ * ribhaye, v. ii. p. 91 U*' Heard (father Sicard) mention- P ed, v. i. p. 1 37. v. ii. p. 126, 186, 190, 209 Sillinefs of the Copti, v. ii. p. 40, it' &c. of aBarbarin. p. 138. of , a valet of the Aga of Effuaen, p. 1 71 Ct Shigari, v. it. p. 140 Sinus, commonly called Black- heads, Turkiih officers, v. i. Siu-i Siugua, v. ii. p. 147 Siuut, ib. p. 33, 206 Sees, 6 b. p. 60, 1 96 Soft,, ib. p. 16 L E O F Sohorra, ib. p. 26 Soil, ib. p. 19 Son of Aga Ibrahim, v. ii. p. *75 Sou Ama, ib. p. 39 Sphinx , the famous Sphinx that is before the fecond pyramid, v. i. p. 121, 127, 143 Stableantor , fee Grotto. Strabo, his defcription of the mufeum, v. i. p. 34. of the fepulchre at Alexandria , and the Serapium, p. 3;. thinks the pyramids were fepulchres of kings, p. 105. his menfu- ration of the greateft pyramid, p. 1 06. fays that there was a hone in the middle of the pyramids, which could be taken out, ib. and p. hi, fpeaks of the tumuli mercu- riales, p. 137. of the well of^ the firft pyramid, p. 145. borrows his account of the pyramids from Diodorus Siculus, p. 146. his account of the vocal ftatue of Mem- non, x. ii. p. 79. of the ca- taradt, p. 118. his defcription of the Egyptian temples il- lujlrated by Mr. Norden’s defgns, p. 126. does not men- tion any temple dedicated to the hawk, p. 128. of the fi- tuation he affigns to the city of Crocodiles, p. 1 89 Suburbs, of ancient Alexandria , v. i. p. 21 Suetonius cited, v. i. p. 34 Suhaedfch , v. ii. p. 40 Sycamore tree, v. i. p. 79. v. ii. 104, 177 Sylfa, V. 11. p. 38 Syene, the ancient, at prefent Effuaen, v. i.p. 143. its ruins v. ii. p. 102 THE CO T. T AB A Ana , v. ii p. 23 Taberbuur , ib. p. 40 Tacitus, h s account of the vocal ftatue of Memnon, v. ii. p. 78 Tebbiin, v. ii. 14 Tagbel, ib. p. 27 Tagta, ib. p. 39 Tame, ib. 38 Tanxa, ib. p. 23 Teffa, ib. p. 13Z Temple, (Sir William) his elegant comparifon of the fi- gure of a pyramid to forms of government, v. i. p. 114 Tent, v. ii. p. 23 Tentyra, the ancient, fee Den- dera. Ter f aye , fee Gi eft ret. Thebes, the ancient, was pro- bably in the place where Hand at prefent Luxxor and Carnac, v. ii. p. 63. its ruins, p. 63, &c. Tijmend, v. ii. p. 22 Tiuraet, ib. p. 57 Tobit, the book of Tobit cited, ib. p. 42 Toma, ib. p. 38 Tomas, ib. p. 147 Tomb of Schech Haridi, ib. p. 40. feveral tombs of Ma- hometan faints, p. 96. tomb of Alexander the Great, v. i. p. 33. of fome great lord at Alexandria, p. 24. tombs between Efiuaen and Mor- rada, v. ii. p. 1 10 Tot, formerly Typhium, v. ii. p. Traditions of the Mahometan Priefts, ib. p. 40, &c. tra- dition with regard to the ifland of Rodda, v. i. p. 74. N T E N T S. 231 — with regard to a grotto at old Cairo, p. 71.— with regard to the giants being the builders of the pyramids, p. no. — with regard to the Chain mountain, v. ii. p. 92. traditions concerning the Franks that would come and conquer Egypt, v. ii. p. 1 49 Travellers in Egypt, the manner in which they ought to com-v port themfelves, v. i. p. 54, &c. Tfcbabel or Tjchibal-Ejfelftle, p 92 i- Tfchebbal III Teir or T fchibb cl E II Dr Hr, fee Deiir. Tfchebat Ell Kofferi, fee Mouu - " tain. * Tfchibel-Mona, fee Mountain. Tfchirche, fee Girge. Turraeg, V. ii. p. 91 Turrag, ib. p 12 Typhium, fee Tot. V. ’ALLEY, the valley of Mettani, v. ii. p. 86 Vdnjltb (father) mentions ,the principal difeafes occalioned by drinking the Nile water, v. i. p. 2.-— the great trade of the French at Alexandria, p. 49.- -violent rains near Old Cairo, p. 83. deferibes the pyramids, and mentions that he faw in feveral of them hieroglyphical iqfcriptions, p 108. his obfetfvations on the feveral grottos or caves throughout Egypt, v. ii. p. 69 • Vergues, a fort of Turkilh vef- fcls, v. i. p. -z Vejfel for filtering the Nile water, ib. p. 82 CL. 4 f' Virgil w. 3 2 1 A 'irgil cited., ib. p 22 Vuladbaggid, fee Gkjiret . U. 11. J 7 BSCHIIR, LJ 13°> ,6 5 ZJtk-iab, ib. p. 16 Umbarakaeb, ib p. 1 3 t Urn Elt Gufuer, fee Ell Gufucr. Ihnbendi, v. ii. p 137 y« or farcophagus in the fii ft pyramid, p. 111, 1 19. iounds [ like a bell,, and gives the mu- fical note E-la-mi, v. ii. p. 79 r Alering, manner of wa- tering the land, fee Ca- lif ch. Well, Joseph’s well, v i. p. 65. well in the firft pyramid, p 1 1 8, 145. another pyramid, p. 1 2 1 « Women , (Egypban) wear blue fhifts, v. ii. p. 47 Z igzag e s of the mole of the port at Alexan- dria, v. i. p. 4 FINIS. ERRATA, E XTRACT from the Nouvelles literaires, pag. xxx. inflead of we penetrat.d, however, as far &c. read, Having pene- trated as far as a veil'd was capable of being navigated upon the p-J^ile, that is aimoil to the fecond cataraft, Isc. Page xxxv. line 7. inftead of p. 1 2. read p. xxii. £oI. i. pag- 16. lin. 9 inilead of removed, read, not removed. pag. 147. inilead of bafaltis read bafaltes. 'ol. ii. p. 90. lin. 8. initead'of tjmbals read kettle drums. ' • •