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A RESIDENCE 
 
 AMONG 
 
 THE CHINESE 
 
 INLAND, ON THE COAST, AND AT SEA. 
 
THE TEA COUNTRIES OF CHINA. 
 
 BY THE SAME AUTHOR, 
 
 TWO VISITS TO THE TEA COUNTRIES OF CHINA 
 
 AND THE HIMALAYA, with full descriptions of the Culture of the 
 Tea Plant, &c. Third Edition. Woodcuts. 2 vols. post 8vo. 18s. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2017 with funding from 
 Princeton Theological Seminary Library 
 
 https://archive.org/details/residenceamongch00fort_1 
 
A RESIDENCE 
 
 AMONG 
 
 THE CHINESE 
 
 INLAND, ON THE COAST, AND AT SEA. 
 
 BEING A NARRATIVE OF SCENES AND ADVENTURES DURING A 
 THIRD VISIT TO CHINA, FROM 1853 TO 1856. 
 
 INCLUDING NOTICES OF MANY NATURAL PRODUCTIONS AND WORKS OF ART, 
 THE CULTURE OF SILK, &c. ; 
 
 WITH SUGGESTIONS ON THE PRESENT WAR. 
 
 By ROBERTCFORTUNE, 
 
 HONORARY MEMBER OF THE AGRI-HORT. SOCIETY OF INDIA, AUTHOR OF 
 THREE YEARS’ WANDERINGS IN CHINA,” “ A JOURNEY TO THE TEA COUNTRIES,” ETC. 
 
 WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
 1857. 
 
 The right of Translation is reserved. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 s 
 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 LONDON : PRINTED BT W. CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET, 
 AND CHARING CROSS. 
 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 It is now nearly fourteen years since I landed in 
 China for the first time, in the capacity of Botanical 
 Collector to the Horticultural Society of London. 
 From 1848 to the beginning of 1851 I was en- 
 gaged by the Honourable Court of Directors of the 
 East India Company in procuring supplies of tea- 
 plants, seeds, implements, and green-tea makers, 
 for the government plantations in the Himalayas. 
 In the end of 1852 I was deputed a second time 
 by the East India Company for the purpose of 
 adding to the collections already formed, and par- 
 ticularly of procuring some first-rate black-tea 
 makers for the experimental tea- farms in India. 
 
 The present volume gives an account of my last 
 travels amongst the Chinese — from 1852 to 1856 
 — which it is hoped will be found as interesting 
 as my former ‘Three Years’ Wanderings,’ and 
 ‘ Journey to the Tea Countries.’ 
 
 During my first visit my investigations were 
 chiefly confined to the coast near the five ports 
 at which foreigners are permitted to trade. In 
 my second book I described some long journeys to 
 the green and black tea countries ; and in this one 
 I have endeavoured to give the reader a minute 
 account of some extensive districts of country 
 
VI 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 which lie between the coast-line and the points 
 formerly reached. For the talented sketches which 
 illustrate the work I am indebted to my friend 
 Mr. Scarth. 
 
 In keeping a journal of the ever-varying scenes 
 which passed daily in review before me, I have 
 not been unmindful of a friendly hint which 
 I received from some reviewers of my former 
 works. I have, therefore, endeavoured to de- 
 scribe more minutely the characters, manners, and 
 customs of the Chinese in those districts in which 
 I lived for a length of time almost like one of 
 themselves. And with regard to this part of the 
 performance I can only say that the figures on 
 my canvas are such as I daily met with in the 
 course of my travels, and are true to nature. The 
 reader is left to draw his own conclusions ; but it is 
 hoped that those who have been inclined to form 
 their estimate of the Chinese character from what 
 has been written about the low rabble of Canton, 
 will, after the perusal of these pages, look with 
 a more favourable eye upon the inhabitants of 
 China when seen from other points of view. 
 
 The natural productions of the country which 
 came under my notice, whether simply ornamental 
 in their character, or articles of commercial value, 
 have been fully described. During a sojourn of 
 some months in the heart of the great silk country 
 I had an opportunity of seeing the cultivation of 
 the mulberry, the feeding and rearing of the silk- 
 worms, and the reeling of the silk ; and these in- 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 vii 
 
 teresting operations are now described, I believe, 
 for tbe first time by an English eye-witness. 
 
 The concluding chapter gives the author’s views 
 upon the lgte disturbances at Canton. It shows 
 how these might have been avoided, and suggests 
 a line of policy by which our future relations with 
 the Chinese may be placed on a more firm and 
 satisfactory basis. These suggestions are of im- 
 portance, not to England only, but to all civilized 
 nations in the West who trade with China, or 
 who may be interested in her future welfare and 
 progress. 
 
 The remarks on the climate of China, with 
 reference to the health of our troops, are the re- 
 sults of long experience, and, in the event of our 
 going to war with that country, ought to be care- 
 fully considered by those who have the direction 
 of the expedition. 
 
 Having thus given a general idea of the scope 
 of the work, I have only to express a hope that, 
 while it may add to our knowledge of the people 
 and productions of China, it may, at the same time, 
 enable us to look with more kindly feelings on a 
 large portion of the human family, far more 
 ancient as a nation, and as industrious, if not so 
 civilized, as ourselves. 
 
 Brompton, April, 1857. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Arrival at Shanghae — Kindness of Mr. Beale — An earthquake — ■ 
 Chinese superstitions — Hairs said to come out of the ground — 
 An examination and the result — Reports of a sunken village — 
 Preparations to visit it — Contradictory statements — The truth 
 at last ! — The Chinese rebellion — Its rise and progress — Taking 
 of Nanking— -Alarm at Shanghae — Means taken for protec- 
 tion — Taoutai’s request for foreign aid — Sir George Bonham 
 proceeds to Nanking — Arrogance of the insurgents — War- 
 vessels of America and France visit them — The religion of the 
 insurgents fanaticism — An extraordinary official statement — 
 Future prospects as regards Christianity Page 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Objects in visiting China — My boat and boatmen — A groundless 
 alarm — Chinese pilgrims — Chair-bearers — Road to Ayuka's 
 temple — Crowds by the way — Shyness of ladies — Description 
 of scenery — Wild flowers — Tea-farms — Approaches to temple 
 - — Ancient tree — Hawkers and their stalls — Scene in temple — 
 Visit to high priest — Shay-le or precious relic — Its history and 
 traditions — A picnic — Character of the people for sobriety — 
 An evening stroll — The temple at night — Huge idols — Queen 
 of Heaven and child — Superstitions of Chinese women . . 22 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Tea-gatherers and their wages — Food of Chinese labourers com- 
 pared with the food of the same class in England — Old city of 
 Tse-kee — Streets and shops — Market — Mode of skinning frogs 
 
X 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 — Temple on hill and fine scenery — Lake near north gate — 
 Temples and priests — My servant’s mode of answering ques- 
 tions — Chesnut-trees discovered — Introduced to India — Chi- 
 nese tombs and ceremonies — A widow comes to worship — 
 Beggars and coffins — Different customs in different countries — 
 Reflections Page 41 
 
 CHAPTER IY. 
 
 Entomology — Chinese ideas respecting my collections — My sanity 
 doubtful — Mode of employing natives to assist me — A scene 
 on returning to my boat — Curious tree — Visit from a man- 
 darin — An endeavour to explain my objects in making collec- 
 tions of natural history — Crowds of natives — Their quietness 
 and civility — Return mandarin’s visit — My reception — Ex- 
 ample of Chinese politeness — Our conversation — Inquisitive- 
 ness of his ladies and its consequences — Beauty of ladies at 
 Tse-kee — Our luncheon and adieu 59 
 
 CHAPTER Y. 
 
 Visit a collector of ancient works of art — His house and garden — 
 Inspect his collections of old crackle china and other vases, &c. 
 — Fondness of Chinese for their own ancient works of art — De- 
 scription of ancient porcelain most prized by them — Ancient 
 enamels — Foo chow enamels — Jade-stone — Rock crystal — 
 Magnetic iron and other minerals — Gold-stone — Red lacquer 
 and gold japan — Porcelain bottles found in Egyptian tombs — 
 Found also in China at the present day — Age of these — Mr. 
 Medhurst’s remarks 78 
 
 CHAPTER YI. 
 
 Boat- travelling — Unsettled state of the country — A midnight 
 alarm — Old quarters at Tein-tung — A good Buddhist priest — 
 Chinese farmers — Their wives and families — Chinese women’s 
 passion, and its effects — Woman’s curse — The author is seized 
 with fever — A native doctor and his mode of treatment — Me- 
 thod of taking honey from bees — Mosquito tobacco — Its com- 
 position and manufacture 93 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 xi 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Difficulty in procuring black-tea manufacturers — Return to Shang- 
 hae — City taken by a band of rebels — Chief magistrate mur- 
 dered — Strange prejudices of foreign residents — Their profes- 
 sions of neutrality — Chinese warfare — Dr. Lockhart’s hospital 
 and patients — Value of medical missions — Public opinion 
 changes — Shanghae evacuated by the rebels — Entered by the 
 - Imperialists — Cruelty of soldiers — • Effects of the rebellion on 
 the face of the country Page 116 
 
 CHAPTEE VIII. 
 
 Return to the tea-districts of Chekiang — Mode of making collections 
 of seeds amongst Chinese peasantry — Messengers sent to Moo- 
 yuen and Ping-shuy — Ping-shuy teas — Agricultural and Horti- 
 cultural Society of India — Varnish-tree- — Wax-insect tree — 
 Soap-tree — Death and funeral of a Buddhist priest — New blue 
 dye — • Its cultivation and manufacture — “ Green indigo ” — Its 
 introduction to India and Europe 142 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Journey to the Snowy Valley and waterfalls- — Kong-k‘how pagoda 
 — Adventure with a blind man — Elaborate carving — A new 
 acquaintance, Mr. Achang — Iron-ore — Mountain stream — Its 
 rafts and cormorants — The temple of the Snowy Valley — De- 
 scription of the falls — Our dinner and guests — How Mr. Achang 
 enjoys it — His lecture on medical botany and lucky spots for 
 graves — A Buddhist recluse — Continue our journey across the 
 mountains — Natural productions — Pine variety of bamboo — 
 Its introduction to India — Romantic glen — Arrive at our boats 
 and bid adieu to Mr. Achang 171 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Collections shipped for India — Success attending this year’s im- 
 portations — Visit Canton — Method of scenting teas described 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 xii 
 
 — Flowers used in the operation — Their scientific and Chinese 
 names — Their relative value — Prices paid for them — Manu- 
 facture of “ caper ” described — Inferior ditto — “ Lie capers ” — 
 Orange pekoe — High character of foreign merchants in China — 
 Howqua’s garden described — Its plants, ornamental doors, 
 and alcoves, &c. — Polite notices to visitors worthy of imi- 
 tation Page 195 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Visit the port of Foo-chow-foo — Its foreign trade — The advantages 
 and disadvantages of the port — Steamer “ Confucius ” — Sail for 
 Formosa — An amateur watch kept — Sea-sickness of mandarins 
 — Appearance of Formosa from sea — Land on the island — 
 Rice-paper plant — The natives — Productions of the island — 
 Suggestions to the navy in these seas — Sail for Shanghae — 
 Spring and spring flowers 219 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Return to Chekiang — A journey to the interior — Chinese country 
 fair — Small feet of women — How formed, and the results — 
 Stalls at the fair — Ancient porcelain seal same as found in the 
 bogs of Ireland — Theatricals — Chinese actors — Natural pro- 
 ductions of the country — Liliaceous medicinal plant — “Cold 
 water temple” — Start for Tsan-tsin — Mountain scenery and 
 productions — Astonishment of the people — A little boy’s 
 opinion of my habits 245 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 A dinner audience — Adventure with a priest — Sanatarium for 
 Ningpo missionaries and others — Abies Ksempferi — Journey 
 to Quan-ting — Bamboo woods and their value — Magnificent 
 scenery — Natives of Poo-in-chee — Golden bell at Quan-ting — 
 Chinese traditions — Cold of the mountains — Journey with 
 Mr. Wang — A disappointment — Adventure with pirates — 
 Strange but satisfactory signal — Results 268 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 xm 
 
 CHAPTER XI Y. 
 
 Season’s collections shipped for India — Ancient porcelain vase — 
 Chinese dealers — Joined by two friends — Inland journey — 
 City of Yu-yaou — Fine rice district — Appearance and conduct 
 of natives — Laughable occurrence with an avaricious boatman 
 — Soil and rocks of district — Village of Ne-ka-loo and Chinese 
 inn — Shores of the bay of Hang-chow — Salt and its manu- 
 facture — Curious moonlight journey — Rapid tides — Passage 
 junk — Voyage across the bay — Chinese sailors — Arrive at 
 Kan-poo Page 294 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 The Tsien-tang river — Its eagre or “bore” — Appearance it pre- 
 sents — - Effects it produces — Superstitions of the natives — 
 City of Kan-poo — Mentioned by Marco Polo — Its decay as a 
 maritime port — Another source of wealth — Its inhabitants — 
 Village of Luh-le-heen — Engage canal boats — Pass through 
 borders of silk country — City of Yuen-hwa— Supposed empo- 
 rium for “ Yuen -fa ” silk — Geology of isolated hills — City of 
 Ping-hoo — Way to manage Chinese crowds — Shops and gar- 
 dens — A dangerous position — Arrive at Shanghae . . .. 316 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Leave Shanghae for the silk country — -Melancholy results of the 
 Shanghae rebellion — Country and productions about Cading — 
 Indigo and safflower — Bamboo paper-making — Insects — Lakes 
 and marshy country — Visit the town of Nan-tsin in the silk 
 districts — Its shops and inhabitants — Producers of raw silk 
 and silk merchants — Description of silk country — Soil — Me- 
 thod of cultivating the mulberry — Valuable varieties — Increased 
 by grafting and not by seeds — Method of gathering the leaves 
 — Hills near Hoo-chow-foo — Temples and priests .. .. 331 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 Enter the city of Hoo-chow-foo — Chinese crowds — Description 
 of the city — Richness of the shops — Fans and silks — Rich 
 dresses of the people — Raw silk and hongs — Flowered crapes 
 
XIV 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 — Chinese play and audience — How I perform my part ! — 
 Leave the city — Charming scenes in the country — Thrown 
 silk — Silk villages and their inhabitants — Temple of Wan- 
 shew-si and its priests — Taou-chang-shan pagoda — Glorious 
 views from the pagoda hill Page 350 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Ascend the Lun-ke river — A musical Buddhist high priest — Hoo- 
 shan monastery — Its silk -worms — Mode of feeding them — 
 General treatment — Their aversion to noise and bright light — 
 The country embanked in all directions — A farmer’s explana- 
 tion of this — Town of Mei-che — Silk -worms begin to spin — 
 Method of putting them on straw — Artificial heat employed — 
 Reeling process — Machine described — Work-people — Silk 
 scenes in a monastery — Industrious Buddhist priests — Novel 
 mode of catching fish — End of silk season — Price of raw silk 
 where it is produced 365 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Leave the silk country — Adventure at Nanziang — A visit from 
 thieves — I am robbed of everything — Unsuccessful efforts to 
 trace the robbers — Astonished by another visit from them — 
 Its objects — My clothes and papers returned — Their motives 
 for this — A visit to the Nanziang mandarin — ~ Means taken to 
 catch the robbers — Two are caught and bambooed — My visit 
 to the mandarin returned — Arrive at Shanghae — Report the 
 robbery to Her Majesty’s Consul — A portion of the money 
 recovered — The remainder supposed to be kept by the man- 
 darins 379 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Tea-makers from Fokien and Kiangse engaged for India — Ning- 
 chow tea country — Formerly produced green teas — Now pro- 
 duces black — How this change took place — Difficulty in getting 
 the men off — One of them arrested for debt — All on board at 
 last and sent on to Calcutta — Coast infested with pirates — 
 Ningpo missionaries robbed — Politeness of the pirates — Their 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 xv 
 
 rendezvous discovered — Attacked and destroyed by the ‘ Bit- 
 tern ’ — A mandarin in difficulty — The English “ don’t fight 
 fair ” — Liberality of the Chinese and English merchants — 
 Captain Vansittart’s reward Page 392 
 
 CHAPTER XXL 
 
 Return to the interior — Curious superstition — Adventures with a 
 priest — Journey in search of new trees — Mountain scenery — 
 New Rhododendron — Valley of the Nine Stones — Fine trees — 
 Yew and golden pine — Curiosity of the natives — A dark and 
 stormy night — We lose ourselves amongst the mountains — 
 Seek shelter in a hut — Alarm of the inmates — Morning after 
 the storm — Return to Ningpo — A fine new plant discovered — 
 Adieu to the north of China — Engage scented-tea makers, &c., 
 at Canton — Sail for India — Complimentary letter from Lord 
 Dalhousie — Ordered to visit the tea-plantations in the Himalayas 
 and Punjab — Return to England 405 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 ON THE PRESENT WAR. 
 
 Dispute with the Chinese about the lorcha “ Arrow ” — Lorchas and 
 their crews — Abuse of the English flag — Right of entrance into 
 the city of Canton — The Chinese outwit us in diplomacy — 
 True causes of our position in Canton — We have ourselves to 
 blame — The policy which ought to be pursued — The city of 
 Canton must be opened — Foolish restrictions on foreigners and 
 their trade ought to be abolished — Direct communication with 
 the court of Peking — Method of carrying out these views — 
 Remarks on the climate with reference to the health of our 
 troops — Conclusion 423 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 1. Method of making “ Caper ” Tea Frontispiece. 
 
 2. Boats used on the rivers in China 22 
 
 3. Ladies and Children on a Pilgrimage to Ayuka’s Temple . . 25 
 
 4. Bemarkable Tree 65 
 
 5. Curious pilgrim-shaped Bottle, enamelled with butterflies 79 
 
 6. Porcelain Vase enamelled with figures of animals and plants 81 
 
 7. Yase of sea-green crackle 84 
 
 8. Oviform Bottle of rare turquoise colour 85 
 
 9. Gourd-shaped Bottle of yellowish stone -colour crackle .. 85 
 
 10. Ancient porcelain vessel 87 
 
 11. Ancient Yase enamelled on metal 88 
 
 12. Bottle, same as found in Egyptian tombs 92 
 
 13. Rain Cloak — Hemp palm 145 
 
 14. Wax Tree 147 
 
 15. Tea-Picker — Canton 207 
 
 16. Foo-chow Countrywoman 249 
 
 17. Ancient porcelain Seals 254 
 
 18. Larch Tree ' 274 
 
 19. Yiew on the Grand Canal, with mulberry trees on its banks 339 
 
 20. Mulberry Tree 345 
 
 21. Mulberry Tree 347 
 
 22. Curious method of Fishing 375 
 
THE CHINESE: 
 
 INLAND, ON THE COAST, AND AT SEA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Arrival at Shanghae — Kindness of Mr. Beale — An earthquake — 
 Chinese superstitions — Hairs said to come ont of the ground — An 
 examination and the result — Reports of a sunken village — Pre- 
 parations to visit it — Contradictory statements — The truth at last ! 
 — The Chinese rebellion — Its rise and progress — Taking of 
 Nanking — Alarm at Shanghae — Means taken for protection — 
 Taoutai’s request for foreign aid — Sir George Bonham proceeds to 
 Nanking — Arrogance of the insurgents — War- vessels of America 
 and France visit them — The religion of the insurgents fanaticism 
 — An extraordinary official statement — Future prospects as regards 
 Christianity. 
 
 On the 14th of March, 1853, the Peninsular and 
 Oriental steam-ship “ Ganges,” in which I was a 
 passenger, sailed from Hong-kong for the port of 
 Shanghae — the most northerly of the five at which 
 foreigners are permitted to trade. The wind for 
 the most part of the way was “ right a-head,” and 
 sometimes it blew almost a gale ; but the good 
 ship, being powerful for her size, and well found in 
 everything, ploughed the ocean “ like a thing of 
 life,” and notwithstanding head winds and heavy 
 seas we anchored in the Shanghae river four days 
 
 B 
 
2 
 
 AN EARTHQUAKE. 
 
 Chap. I. 
 
 after leaving Hong-kong, having run in that time 
 somewhere about nine hundred miles. 
 
 As on former occasions, I determined to make 
 this port my head-quarters during my travels in 
 the interior owing to the facilities it afforded for 
 the despatch of my collections to India or to Eng- 
 land. I was lucky enough to find my friend 
 Mr. Beale, to whom I was so much indebted during 
 my former “ journey to the tea districts,” still in 
 Shanghae, and as kind and hospitable as ever. He 
 again invited me to make his house my home when- 
 ever I should visit this port, an invitation of which 
 I availed myself frequently during the three years 
 I have been in the country. His large and in- 
 teresting garden I found of the greatest value, as 
 in it I could store my various collections until an 
 opportunity occurred of having them shipped for 
 their destination. 
 
 During the few days of my stay in Shanghae 
 I experienced for the first time in my life the 
 shock of an earthquake, a phenomenon which is 
 not unusual in this part of the world. It was 
 about eleven o’clock at night, one of those beautiful 
 nights which one finds only in the sunny lands of 
 the East. The stars were shining brightly in the 
 sky, but a slight haze seemed to spread itself over 
 the ground and the river ; and the atmosphere, 
 although perfectly calm, was warmer than is usual 
 at this early period of the spring. I had been 
 dining out, and had just returned home, and was 
 sitting with Mr. Beale at the drawing-room fire. 
 
Crap. I. 
 
 AN EARTHQUAKE. 
 
 3 
 
 In an instant I experienced an extraordinary and 
 unaccountable sensation, which was perfectly new, 
 and which I could neither understand nor explain. 
 At the same moment the pheasants in the aviary 
 began to scream, and the chandelier which hung 
 from the ceiling swung slowly from side to side. 
 “ It is an earthquake,” said Mr. Beale ; “ let us go 
 out on the lawn in front of the house.” I confess 
 I did not require a second bidding, but rushed out 
 of the house forthwith. Mr. Beale, who seemed to 
 have become accustomed to such things, quietly 
 went to look for his hat in the lobby and then fol- 
 lowed me. In the mean time his Excellency Sir 
 George Bonham, her Majesty’s Plenipotentiary 
 and Governor of Hong-kong, who was staying at 
 this time with Mr. Beale, came down stairs, and all 
 the other gentlemen in the house made their ap- 
 pearance also, most of them in their night-dresses, 
 as they had retired to rest before the occurrence 
 took place. All this happened in much less time 
 than I take to write it. When we reached the 
 lawn the ground seemed moving and swaying to 
 and fro under our feet, and I experienced a slight 
 sickening sensation not unlike sea-sickness. At 
 the same time the whole scene was rendered more 
 striking by the ringing of bells in the adjoining 
 houses, the screams of birds, and the crash of a 
 falling house as we thought, but which turned out 
 afterwards to be a slimly-built wall . The first shock 
 lasted for a few minutes only, but several were felt 
 afterwards, although less severe than the first. 
 
 b 2 
 
4 
 
 SUBTERRANEAN HAIRS. 
 
 Chap. 1. 
 
 When daylight dawned on the following morn- 
 ing it was found that the damage done was not 
 very great. The wall I have already noticed had 
 fallen, some beams in one of the houses had come 
 through the ceiling, and a quantity of goods had 
 tumbled down in one of the godowns. Most of the 
 clocks had stopped, and some few lamps and glasses 
 were broken, but upon the whole the damage done 
 was very inconsiderable. Groups of Chinese were 
 seen in the gardens, road-sides, and fields, engaged 
 in gathering hairs which are said to make their 
 appearance on the surface of the ground after an 
 earthquake takes place. This proceeding attracted 
 a great deal of attention from some of the foreign 
 residents in Shanghae, and the Chinese were closely 
 examined upon the subject. Most of them fully 
 believed that these hairs made their appearance 
 only after an earthquake had occurred, but could 
 give no satisfactory explanation of the phenomenon, 
 while some more wise than their neighbours did 
 not hesitate to affirm that they belonged to some 
 huge subterraneous animal whose slightest shake 
 was sufficient to move the world. 
 
 I must confess, at the risk of being laughed at, 
 that I was one of those who took an interest in 
 this curious subject, and that I joined several groups 
 who were searching for these hairs. In the course 
 of my travels I have ever found it unwise to laugh 
 at what I conceived to be the prejudices of a 
 people simply because I could not understand them. 
 In this instance, however, I must confess the 
 
Chap. I. 
 
 CHINESE SUPERSTITION. 
 
 5 
 
 results were not worth the trouble I took. The 
 hairs, such as I picked up, and such as were shown 
 me by the Chinese, had certainly been produced 
 above the earth and not below it. In some in- 
 stances they might readily be traced to horses, 
 dogs, and cats, while in others they were evidently 
 of vegetable origin. The north-eastern part of 
 China produces a very valuable tree known by the 
 name of the liemp-palm, from the quantity of 
 fibrous bracts it produces on the stem just under 
 its blossoms. Many of these fibres were shown to 
 me by the Chinese as a portion of the hairs in 
 question ; and when I pointed out the source from 
 which such had come, and which it was impossible 
 to dispute, my friends laughed, and with true 
 Chinese politeness acknowledged I was right, and 
 yet I have no doubt they still held their former 
 opinions concerning the origin of such hairs. The 
 whole matter simply resolves itself into this, — if 
 the hairs pointed out to me were the true ones, 
 then such things may be gathered not only after 
 earthquakes but at any other time. But if, after 
 all, these were not the real things, and if some 
 vegetable (I shall not say animal) production was 
 formed, owing to the peculiar condition of the 
 atmosphere and from other causes, I can ordy say 
 that such production did not come under my 
 observation.* 
 
 * During a recent visit to the north-west provinces of India, where 
 earthquakes are not unfrequent, 1 could find no traditions such as that 
 I have, alluded to. 
 
A SUNKEN VILLAGE. 
 
 Chap. I. 
 
 (5 
 
 A day or two after the earthquake took place a 
 report was current amongst the natives that a large 
 tract of ground, on which a populous village stood, 
 had sunk down into the bowels of the earth, carry- 
 ing with it the whole of the people, and that the 
 spot was now marked by a large pool of water. 
 This report was repeated to me in the country at a 
 considerable distance from Shanghae, and seemed 
 to be generally believed by the inhabitants. An 
 old nursery-gardener, from whom I was in the 
 habit of purchasing plants, informed me the village 
 in question had been full of bad people, and that 
 this was no doubt a judgment from heaven on 
 account of their sins. I hinted that there might be 
 some danger to his own property and to the city 
 of Shanghae ; but the old man told me my fears 
 were groundless. 
 
 Being anxious to verify the reports of the 
 Chinese by a personal examination of the place, 
 I determined to pay it a visit. Mr. Forbes, 
 American Consul at Canton, and Mr. Shortrede, 
 editor of the ‘ China Mail,’ agreed to accompany 
 me. I had been told the spot was distant from 
 Shanghae some thirty miles up the river, and in a 
 south-westerly direction, but the more minute my 
 inquiries were the greater difficulty I had in finding 
 out the exact locality. In the mean time all our 
 arrangements had been made except the hiring of 
 boats, and we had agreed to start on the following 
 morning. I had an excellent servant, a man who 
 had travelled with me for several years, and whose 
 
Chap. I. 
 
 A DISAPPOINTMENT. 
 
 7 
 
 duty it was to engage the boats we required for 
 the journey. Before be left me for tbis purpose 
 I desired him to take care the boatman knew 
 the road, as it would never do to find out after we 
 had started that no one knew which way to go. 
 He left me on this mission, and was absent about 
 two hours. When he returned he informed me 
 that he had made the requisite inquiries about the 
 sunken village, that such an occurrence had taken 
 place, but instead of the spot being up the river we 
 must go down in an opposite direction in order to 
 find it. At the same time he told me candidly he 
 did not think the boatman knew anything about 
 the matter, and said I had better not go until 
 something more satisfactory could be ascertained 
 concerning it. I was reluctantly compelled to 
 admit that his advice was good, and wrote to the 
 others saying we had better put off the journey. 
 And now it is worth while to mark the result of 
 all this in order to get an idea of the extraordinary 
 character of the people of China. A few days 
 afterwards we were told with the greatest coolness, 
 by the same parties who had formerly given the 
 information about the sunken village, that “ it was 
 quite true such an occurrence had taken place, but 
 that it had happened about two hundred years 
 
 f ” 
 
 ago ! 
 
 While these events were going forward the 
 rebellion in the interior of the country was caus- 
 ing the greatest excitement, not only amongst the 
 natives, but also amongst foreign residents. The 
 
8 
 
 THE KEBELLION. 
 
 Chap. 1. 
 
 rebels were known as the Kwang-si men, as they 
 belonged to the province of that name, which had 
 been for several years in a state of great disorder. 
 In 1850, three years before the time of which 
 I write, a memorial, presented to the government 
 by a number of gentlemen in the province, shows 
 that fully two-thirds of it was overrun by robbers, 
 who committed great violence upon the inhabitants. 
 “ At the time the petition was written hundreds and 
 thousands of fields were lying uncultivated ; the 
 communications were in the hands of the outlaws, 
 so that the supplies of government could not 
 travel.” About the close of 1850 the well-known 
 Commissioner Lin was summoned from his retire- 
 ment in Fokieu in order to put down the insur- 
 gents, but he died on the way. Sundry other high 
 officers, civil and military, were sent against them, 
 but apparently with but little success. In August, 
 1851, Hung-sew-tseuen, subsequently known as 
 Tai-ping-wang, seized Yung-ngan, a city of a sub- 
 prefecture in the east of the province, and held it 
 until April, 1852. The insurgent force, of which 
 he was the chief, advancing slowly at first, then 
 commenced its northern march by moving upon 
 the provincial capital Kwei-lin. The rebels soon 
 left this city behind them, and, after seizing and 
 abandoning various places in the south of Hoo-nan, 
 in the middle of December took Yohchau, a city 
 on the river Yang-tse-kiang. Before the end of 
 the month they had crossed this river, and stormed 
 AYu -chang, the capital of Hu-peh ; then descending 
 
Chap. I. 
 
 ALARM AT SHANGHAE. 
 
 9 
 
 the stream, they captured every city of note on or 
 near its banks, both in Kiang-si and Ngan-hwui, 
 until they arrived at Nanking, the ancient southern 
 capital, in Kiang-su, which they stormed in March, 
 1853.* 
 
 Wfeen the news of the success of the rebels at 
 Nanking and Chinkiang reached Shanghae, the 
 alarm amongst all classes of the community was 
 very great. Some persons were of opinion that 
 the insurgents would march straight upon Shang- 
 hae, attracted thither by the reported wealth of 
 the foreign merchants ; and while the better in- 
 formed did not apprehend much danger from this 
 source, nearly all agreed in the propriety of taking 
 some precautionary measures for the protection 
 of the settlement. Meetings were held at the 
 British Consulate, parties of sailors and marines 
 were landed from our men-of-war, some rude 
 fortifications were hastily thrown up, and every 
 precaution was taken to prevent a surprise. It 
 turned out afterwards that, however prudent these 
 measures were at the time, they were quite un- 
 called for, as it does not seem to have been the 
 intention of the insurgents to molest foreigners in 
 any way whatever. 
 
 The Taoutai of Shanghae — a native of the 
 Canton province, and a man of reputed wealth — 
 had been making great exertions in order to put 
 down the rebellion. He had chartered a number 
 of Portuguese lorchas and other vessels, and sent 
 
 * T. F. Wade, in ‘ China Mail,’ Sept. 12, 1855. 
 
10 
 
 FOREIGN AID SOLICITED, 
 
 Chap. I. 
 
 them up to Nanking to arrest the progress of the 
 now victorious and successful insurgents. In 
 addition to this, he applied to Mr. Alcock, her 
 Majesty’s Consul at the port, to request Captain 
 Saunderson, of H. M. brig “ Lily,” to proceed 
 with that vessel to Nanking, and exterminate the 
 rebels. Captain Saunderson very properly re- 
 fused to comply with this modest request, stating 
 at the same time that a small sailing-vessel like 
 the “ Lily ” would be useless in a river where 
 the tides were rapid. 
 
 Her Majesty’s Plenipotentiary, Sir George Bon- 
 ham, having in the mean time arrived at Shang- 
 hae in the “ Hermes,” accompanied by the 
 “ Salamander,” both, war-steamers, the Taoutai 
 renewed his application. After giving an account 
 of the progress of the rebels received from the 
 governor of Kiangsoo, which concluded by stating 
 that, “ if they are not speedily cut off, commerce 
 will be interrupted, and the business of Chinese 
 and foreign merchants will be totally ruined,” 
 he goes on as follows : — 
 
 “ I have to request that you will, in the first 
 place, despatch the vessels of war which may have 
 already arrived at Shanghae, together with that 
 stationed there, to Nanking, that they may, with 
 the lorchas under their command, make a com- 
 bined attack, solemnly binding themselves to 
 extirpate the rebels, in order to gratify the public 
 mind and open the path of commerce. I have 
 also to request that you will urge by letter the 
 
Chap. I. 
 
 BUT NOT ACCORDED. 
 
 11 
 
 speedy advance of the vessels which have not yet 
 arrived, and their successive departure for Nan- 
 king, in order to sweep away every remnant of 
 rebellion, and give tranquillity to the country, to 
 the great happiness of myself, the Chinese officials, 
 and people. For this I earnestly pray and ear- 
 nestly entreat.” 
 
 A. polite answer was sent to this “ earnest ” 
 communication ; but as Sir George Bonham had 
 made up his mind to remain strictly neutral in the 
 affair, the poor Taoutai’s request for foreign aid 
 was not complied with, and Nanking, with Ching- 
 kiang-foo, soon fell into the hands of the insur- 
 gents. 
 
 About this time the United States steam-frigate 
 “ Susquehanna,” with his Excellency Colonel Mar- 
 shall on board, made an attempt to reach Nanking 
 by the Yang-tse-kiang, but, finding some difficulty, 
 owing, it was said, to the shallowness of the river 
 and the numerous sandbanks, returned to Shanghae 
 without having accomplished the end in view. 
 Afterwards this vessel was more successful. 
 
 Meanwhile the excitement amongst all classes 
 of the community at Shanghae daily increased, 
 and all sorts of exaggerated reports were pro- 
 mulgated. At one time it was reported that the 
 insurgents were within thirty miles of us, and 
 might be upon us at any moment. In addition 
 to the means we had taken for the protection of 
 the foreign settlement, the Taoutai, after his own 
 manner, was most indefatigable in taking measures 
 
12 
 
 THE TAOUTAI’S PRECAUTIONS. 
 
 Chap. I. 
 
 for the safety of the city. He purchased large 
 supplies of gunpowder and guns from foreigners, 
 enlisted soldiers, and called out the militia. But 
 evidently being rather doubtful of the results, and 
 perhaps not having much confidence in the bravery 
 of his troops, he removed his treasure from the 
 Imperial treasury in the city, and placed it on 
 board of H.M. brig “ Lily.” 
 
 Captain Fishbourne, in his ‘ Impressions of 
 China,’ gives us an anecdote which shows plainly 
 that the old man was in a great state of alarm : — 
 “ About this time I asked him how it was that, 
 with such large and well-appointed armies as the 
 Imperialists investing Nanking were said to be, 
 they did not recapture it ? He answered, these 
 thieves were not men, they were devils; that 
 they had undermined all the ground inside the 
 walls ; that the Imperialists had effected a breach 
 in the walls, but, anticipating an ambuscade, they 
 had driven a large number of buffaloes in through 
 the breach, and that these had all disappeared 
 into a dreadful gulf which the insurgents had 
 made.” 
 
 Things were in this state when Mr. Meadows, 
 Interpreter to the Consulate, volunteered to try 
 and reach the insurgent camp, and obtain some 
 definite information with regard to their position, 
 their numbers, and particularly their views with 
 regard to Shanghae. He left Shanghae on the 
 9tlr of April in his own boat, with a picked crew, 
 and, having a fair southerly wind, reached Soo- 
 
Chap. I. 
 
 MR. MEADOWS’ INQUIRIES. 
 
 13 
 
 cliow on the following day. On the 13th he 
 passed the city of Chang-chow, and on the 14th 
 he arrived at a place called Tan-yang. At this 
 place his boatmen and servants seem to have 
 objected to proceed, and, meeting a man whom he 
 had previously despatched to procure information, 
 he returned to Shanghae in order to communicate 
 to Sir George Bonham the information he had 
 been enabled to gather during his journey con- 
 nected with the movements of the insurgents. 
 
 Mr. Meadows was led to believe that the army 
 of the insurgents numbered from thirty to forty 
 thousand of “ trusted and voluntary adherents,” 
 and in addition they had from eighty to one hun- 
 dred thousand of pressed men and other adherents. 
 “ The strangest,” says Mr. Meadows, “ and what 
 will probably prove by far the most important fact 
 connected with them, is, that they have got a 
 sacred book, which the chiefs and the older mem- 
 bers of the army not only peruse and repeat 
 diligently themselves, but earnestly admonish all 
 new comers to learn.” 
 
 The information communicated by Mr. Mea- 
 dows, and the well-known fact that the Chinese 
 authorities in Shanghae had been endeavouring, 
 by every means in their power, to make the insur- 
 gents believe that foreigners were to take the part 
 of the Imperialists in the quarrel, induced Sir 
 George Bonham to proceed himself to Nanking in 
 the “ Hermes.” 
 
 From a careful perusal of the published account 
 
14 
 
 ARROGANCE OF INSURGENTS. 
 
 Chap. I. 
 
 of this expedition it appears to have been useful in 
 setting the insurgents right as to our determination 
 to remain strictly neutral, and at the same time, if 
 their statements were to he relied upon, it was 
 ascertained that they had no intention of molest- 
 ing us in any way at Shanghae. But the officials 
 amongst the insurgents appear to have been full to 
 the brim with Canton ideas of their superiority 
 over all the nations of the earth, which augurs ill 
 for our future connection should they be successful 
 in upsetting the present dynasty and establishing 
 one of their own. Listen to the modesty of the 
 “ Northern Prince — “ The Lord of China is the 
 lord of the whole world ; he is the second son of 
 God, and all the people in the whole world must 
 
 obey and follow him The true Lord 
 
 is not merely the Lord of China ; he is not only 
 our lord, but he is your lord also 
 
 In order to show their views more fully, I must 
 quote from another extraordinary document re- 
 ceived by Her Majesty’s Plenipotentiary at the 
 time : — “ But now that you distant English have 
 not deemed myriads of miles too far to come and 
 acknowledge our sovereignty , not only are the sol- 
 diers and officers of our celestial dynasty delighted 
 and gratified thereby, but even in high heaven 
 itself our Celestial Father and Elder Brother will 
 also admire this manifestation of your fidelity and 
 
 truth We therefore promulgate this 
 
 new decree ” [permitting us to carry on commer- 
 cial relations as usual, &c.] “ of Tai-ping for the 
 
Chap. I. 
 
 VISITS OF WAR-VESSELS. 
 
 15 
 
 information of you English, so that all the human 
 race may learn to worship our Heavenly Father 
 and Celestial Elder Brother, and that all may 
 know that, wherever our Royal Master is, there 
 men unite in congratulating him on having ob- 
 tained the decree to rule.” Sir George Bonham 
 says in his despatch, — “ To this extraordinary 
 document I returned the accompanying reply, 
 which I deemed, under all circumstances, neces- 
 sary, as, the sooner the minds of these men are 
 disabused in regard to their universal supremacy, 
 the better for all parties : — ‘ I have received your 
 communication, part of which I am unable to 
 understand, ’ [no wonder] ‘ and especially that 
 portion which implies that the English are subor- 
 dinate to your sovereign.’ ” 
 
 In the month of December, 1853, the French 
 war-steamer “ Cassini ” paid a short visit to the 
 insurgents at Nanking ; in May, 1854, the Ameri- 
 can Minister, Mr. McLane, visited them in the 
 “ Susquehanna,” and a short time afterwards PI.M. 
 steamers “ Rattler ” and “ Styx ” renewed the 
 visit on the part of the English. These inter- 
 views with the leaders of the insurgents do not 
 seem to have led to any results of importance, 
 if we can judge from the statements which have 
 been published from time to time in the news- 
 papers, While the Chinese have treated the 
 western officials with a certain amount of studied 
 politeness, they have not failed, on all occasions, 
 to assert their own superiority and to demand 
 
16 
 
 RELIGION OF THE REBELS. 
 
 Chap. I. 
 
 that we should acknowledge their universal supre- 
 macy. It therefore appears that these visits from 
 officials and ships of war belonging to western 
 nations have not only done no good, but have had 
 a tendency to foster that pride and self-conceit of 
 which the Chinese as a nation have rather more 
 than their fair share. 
 
 The religious character of the movement has 
 attracted, as might be expected, much notice from 
 the Christian nations of the West. At one time, 
 during our early acquaintance with the insurgents, 
 it was believed by the more sanguine amongst us 
 that nothing short of a miracle had been performed 
 by the Almighty, and that the millions of China, 
 for ages sunk in idolatry, were now “ stretching 
 out their hand to God.” But our information on 
 this point was always crude and indefinite. There 
 was, however, no doubt of one thing, namely, that 
 they were busily employed in printing and dis- 
 tributing copies of the Scriptures, that they ap- 
 peared to be worshipping the same God whom we 
 worship, that they were keeping holy one day in 
 seven, and that their moral code was strict and 
 -severe. And it was not to be wondered at if, in 
 many instances, they were induced to put a literal 
 interpretation to certain passages of the sacred 
 writings which they had no one to explain. 
 
 But notwithstanding all this, there were many 
 persons amongst the foreign residents in China, 
 and I must confess myself as one of the number, 
 who viewed the religious character of the move- 
 
Chap. I. 
 
 TENETS OF CHINESE CHRISTIANS. 
 
 17 
 
 ment with considerable doubt. This is not the 
 age of miracles, and certainly nothing less than 
 a miracle could account for many thousands of the 
 Chinese being all at once converted to Chris- 
 tianity. 
 
 Mr. W. H. Medhurst, Chinese Secretary to the 
 English Government at Hong-kong, who visited 
 Nanking with the “ Rattler ” and “ Styx,” put 
 us in possession of an official statement professing 
 to be a few of the tenets of the so-called Chinese 
 Christians. The document in question is certainly 
 an extraordinary one. If we understand it aright, 
 and if it really be what it professes, and an expo- 
 sition of the religious belief of the insurgents, we 
 must conclude their Christianity to be a sham, and 
 their leaders fanatics or knaves. 
 
 In this document, one of the leaders of the 
 insurgents, styled the Eastern Prince, professes 
 to have direct communication with the Supreme 
 Being. He pretends to fall into a trance in the 
 presence of the females of the court, and in that 
 state assumes that he is the Heavenly Father, and 
 gives instructions to be communicated to himself, 
 and also summons the Northern Prince to his 
 presence. The instructions given to himself are 
 afterwards communicated to him by the females, 
 and are to this effect : he is desired to go to court, 
 and reprove the Celestial King, Hung-sew-tseuen, 
 the leader of the insurgents, for harshness to the 
 females of his court and for over-indulo’ence to 
 
 O 
 
 his son. When the Northern Prince arrives, the 
 
18 
 
 TENETS OF CHINESE CHEISTIANS. 
 
 Chap. I. 
 
 Heavenly Father has ascended again to heaven, 
 that is, the Eastern Prince is no longer under 
 divine influence, and the whole party get into 
 their sedan-chairs to communicate the divine com- 
 mands to the Celestial King, Hung-sew-tseuen. 
 Before they start, however, the Heavenly Father 
 descends a second time, and the Eastern Prince 
 falls again into a trance. The Heavenly Father 
 now issues his commands by the lips of the Eastern 
 Prince to the Northern Prince, who kneels reve- 
 rently in the street to receive them. These are 
 to the effect that He, the Heavenly Father, is to 
 be conveyed to the Hall of Audience in the Ce- 
 lestial King’s palace. When they arrive there, the 
 Celestial King is summoned ; he with the Northern 
 Prince kneels before the Heavenly Father (the 
 Eastern Prince) to hear his commands. The 
 Heavenly Father now reproved the King in the 
 following words : — “ Sew-tseuen, you are very 
 much in fault ; are you aware of it ? ” Sew-tseuen, 
 with the other officers of his court, kneels down 
 before the Heavenly Father and says, “ Your un- 
 worthy son knows he is in fault, and begs the 
 Heavenly Father graciously to forgive him.” The 
 Heavenly Father then said with a loud voice, 
 “ Since you acknowledge your fault, you must be 
 beaten with forty blows.” When this judgment 
 is pronounced, the Northern Prince and all the 
 officers of the court prostrate themselves on the 
 ground, and, weeping, implore the Heavenly Fa- 
 ther to remit the punishment which their master 
 
Chap. I. 
 
 TENETS OF CHINESE CHRISTIANS. 
 
 19 
 
 had deserved, and offer at the same time to receive 
 the blows in his stead. Bnt the Celestial King 
 will not hear of this, and insists on receiving the 
 blows on his own person, prostrating himself for 
 the purpose. The Heavenly Father now relents, 
 and says, “ Since you have obeyed the requisition, 
 I shall not inflict the blows.” The Heavenly 
 Father then returns again to heaven, and the 
 Eastern Prince is himself once more. 
 
 And now it becomes the duty of the Northern 
 Prince to report to the Eastern Prince what the 
 Heavenly Father had communicated, the latter 
 pretending to he profound^ ignorant on the 
 matter. “ My fourth Elder Brother,” said he, 
 “ the Fleavenly Father has again troubled himself 
 to come down into the world.” The Eastern 
 Prince appeared much pleased and said, “ Has 
 he indeed taken the trouble to come down again ? 
 Truly he gives himself a great deal of trouble on 
 our account.” 
 
 The Eastern Prince, having been thus informed 
 of the nature of the divine commands, hastens to 
 communicate them to the Celestial King — a por- 
 tion of them, however, appear to have been com- 
 municated before, during the interview at the 
 palace. The Celestial King receives the heavenly 
 commands with respect and gratitude, and then 
 gives expression to an idea which, if we under- 
 stand aright, is nothing else than blasphemy. And 
 be it remembered that this is uttered by Hung- 
 sew-tseuen, the leader of this so-called Christian 
 
 o 2 
 
20 
 
 TENETS OF CHINESE CHRISTIANS. 
 
 Chap. I. 
 
 rebellion, and pupil of our Christian mission- 
 aries. The Celestial King then said, “ When our 
 Celestial Elder Brother Jesus, in obedience to the 
 commands of our Heavenly Father, came down into 
 the world, in the country of Judea, he addressed 
 his disciples saying, ‘ At some future day the Com- 
 forter will come into the world.’ Now I, your 
 second Elder Brother, considering what you, Bro- 
 ther Tsing, have reported to me, and observing 
 what you have done, must conclude that the Com- 
 forter, even the Holy Ghost, spoken of by our 
 Celestial Elder Brother, is none other than yourself 
 “ Brother Tsing ” readily agrees with Hung-sew- 
 tseuen, and now assumes the title of the Comforter 
 or Holy Ghost, and has his name included in the 
 hymn of praise which is chanted morning and 
 evening by the so-called Christian army. 
 
 Another of these worthies, styled the Western 
 Prince, pretends to personate our Saviour, “the 
 Heavenly Elder Brother,” and utters his exhorta- 
 tions and commands as if they came direct from 
 heaven. 
 
 It must be confessed that such professions 
 amongst the leaders of this movement incline us 
 to pause before we can bring our minds to admit 
 them to be Christians. Those who are desirous of 
 obtaining a further account of these men may con- 
 sult with advantage Captain Fishbourne’s ‘ Im- 
 pressions of China,’ and Mr. Meadows’s 1 Chinese 
 and their Rebellions.’ Foreigners, however, have 
 had no opportunity of making themselves fully 
 
Chap. I. 
 
 PROSPECTS OF CHRISTIANITY. 
 
 21 
 
 acquainted with this strange people, and I for one 
 am content to suspend my judgment until we have 
 the means of seeing and judging for ourselves. 
 Any change, however, from Buddhism, Taouism, 
 and the apathy with which the Chinese people 
 have shrouded themselves for ages past in so far 
 as religion is concerned, would seem to be desir- 
 able. And surely the thousands of copies of the 
 Sacred Scriptures which are not only printed and 
 circulated, but read by the insurgents, will bear 
 fruit at last, although it is much to be feared the 
 precious seed is still sown on stony ground. 
 
 Having these views, I fully agree with the fol- 
 lowing remarks made by a writer in ‘ The Times ’ 
 upon this subject : — “ It cannot be said at present 
 that the Chinese have learnt the Gospel : but they 
 have at any rate been taught to abandon a system 
 of idolatry, to profess themselves believers in some- 
 thing better, and to appeal to this new law for the 
 correction of social evils. ... It will, probably, be 
 long before this extraordinary revolution is con- 
 summated, but we do not see that the liojaes enter- 
 tained of the eventual conversion of China need 
 he despondingly abandoned.” 
 
22 
 
 OBJECTS IN VISITING CHINA. 
 
 Chai*. 11. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Objects in visiting China — My boat and boatmen — A groundless 
 alarm — Chinese pilgrims — Chair-bearers — Hoad to Ayuka’s temple 
 — Crowds by the way — Shyness of ladies — Description of scenery 
 — Wild flowers — Tea-farms — Approaches to temple — Ancient 
 tree — Hawkers and their stalls — Scene in temple — Visit to high 
 priest — Shay-le or precious, relic — Its history and traditions — A 
 picnic — Character of the people for sobriety — An evening stroll 
 — The temple at night — Huge idols — Queen of Heaven and child 
 — Superstitions of Chinese women. 
 
 My chief object in coming to China at this time 
 was to procure a number of first-rate black-tea 
 manufacturers, with large supplies of tea-seeds, 
 plants, and implements, such as were used in the 
 best districts, for the Government plantations in 
 the north-west provinces of India. Leaving Tai- 
 ping-Wang to fight his battles in the province of 
 Kiang-su and elsewhere, I sailed for the town of 
 Ningpo in the province of Chekiang, and on my 
 arrival at that port started immediately for the tea 
 districts in the interior. I had engaged a small 
 covered boat, such as is used on the canals in this 
 part of the country. It was divided into three 
 compartments : that in the stern was occupied 
 by the boatmen, who propelled the boat by a 
 powerful scull, which worked on a small pivot ; 
 the centre was occupied by myself, and the fore- 
 
BOATS USED ON THE BIVEBS IN CHE 
 
Chap. II. 
 
 BOAT AND BOATMEN. 
 
 23 
 
 part by my servants. The length of time these 
 boatmen are able to work this scull is very extra- 
 ordinary. It is customary with them to go on 
 continually both day and night, from the com- 
 mencement of a journey until its end. When 
 working in rivers, when it is calm, or when the 
 wind is a-head, they have to anchor when the tide 
 is against them, and in this way rest for six hours 
 at a time ; but in canals, when the tide is not felt, 
 they go on always both night and day. And 
 what is more wonderful still, the greater part of 
 the work is done by one, and that one is often- 
 times a mere boy. The boatman in each boat is 
 generally the owner, and the boy is engaged by 
 him to assist in the working of the boat. Hence 
 the former is the master and the latter the man ; 
 and as a matter of course the man has to do the 
 greater part of the work. But these boys are well 
 fed and kindly treated by their masters, and they 
 seem happy and contented with their lot in life. 
 This continual working with the scull seems to 
 unfit them for any other kind of work ; when on 
 shore they walk badly with a sort of rolling 
 motion, much worse than that of a common sailor, 
 and seem altogether like a “ fish out of water.” 
 
 The distance from the city of Ningpo to the 
 end of the canal and foot of the hills to which I 
 was bound was about ten or twelve miles. As 
 we had travelled all night we reached the end of 
 the canal some time before daybreak. I had slept 
 pretty well on the way, but was now awakened 
 
24 
 
 CHINESE PILGRIMS. 
 
 Chap. II. 
 
 by the sounds of hundreds of voices, some talking, 
 others screaming at their loudest pitch, and the 
 shrill tones of the women were heard far above 
 those of the men. Half-awake as I was at first, I 
 almost thought I had fallen in with a party of 
 Tai-ping-Wang’s army; but my servants and the 
 boatmen soon set me right on that point, by 
 informing me the multitudes in question were on 
 their way to Ah-yuh-Wang, or Ayuka’s temple, 
 to worship and burn incense at its shrines. To 
 fall asleep again was now out of the question, 
 owing to the noise and excitement by which I 
 was surrounded. I therefore got up and dressed, 
 and took a seat on the roof of my boat, when I 
 had a moonlight view of what was going on 
 around me. Every boat seemed crowded with 
 pilgrims, the greater part by far consisting of 
 well-dressed females, all in their holiday attire. 
 As daylight dawned the view became more dis- 
 tinct. Each boat was now brought close to the 
 banks of the canal, in order that the passengers 
 might be able to get on shore. I pitied the ladies, 
 poor things ! with their small cramped feet, for it 
 was with great difficulty they could walk along 
 the narrow plank which connected the boat with 
 the bank of the canal. But the boatmen and other 
 attendants were most gallant in rendering all the 
 assistance in their power, and the fair sex were for 
 the most part successful in reaching “ terra firma” 
 without any accident worth relating. Numerous 
 chair-bearers and chairs lined the banks of the 
 
LADIES AND CHILDREN ON A PILGRIMAGE TO ATOKA'S TEMPLE. Page 25. 
 
Chap. II. 
 
 ROAD TO THE TEMPLE. 
 
 25 
 
 canal, all anxious for hire ; and if the more wealthy- 
 looking did not get conveyances of this kind, it 
 certainly was not the fault of the owners of these 
 vehicles, for they were most importunate in their 
 offers. Indeed so much was this the case, that in 
 many instances under my observation the waver- 
 ing pilgrim was almost lifted into the chair before 
 he was aware of it. These chairs are extremely 
 light and simple in their construction. They are 
 formed of two long bamboo poles, with a small 
 piece of wood slung between them, on which the 
 traveller sits, and another smaller piece slung 
 lower and more forward, on which he rests his 
 feet. Sometimes, when ladies and children were 
 to he carried, and the weight consequently light, I 
 observed two or three of these seats slung between 
 the poles, and this number of persons carried by 
 two stout coolies with the greatest ease. 
 
 After taking my morning cup of tea within 
 sight of numerous plantations of the “ herb” itself, 
 which are dotted on the sides of the hills here, I 
 joined the motley crowd, and proceeded with them 
 to Ayuka’s temple. When I got outside of the 
 little village at the end of the canal, and on a 
 little eminence beyond it, I obtained a long view of 
 the mountain-road which leads to the temple. And 
 a curious and strange view this was. Whether 
 I looked before or behind me, I beheld crowds of 
 people of both sexes and of all ages, wending their 
 way to worship at the altars of the “ unknown 
 God.” They were generally divided into small 
 
26 
 
 SHYNESS OF LADIES. 
 
 Chap. II. 
 
 groups — little families or parties — as they had left 
 their native villages, and most of these parties had 
 a servant or two walking behind them, and carry- ^ 
 ing some food to refresh them by the way, and a 
 bundle of umbrellas to protect them from the rain. 
 Each of the ladies — young and old — who were not 
 in chairs, walked with a long stick, which was 
 used partly to prevent her from stumbling, and 
 partly to help her along the road. Most of them 
 were dressed gaily in silks, satins, and crapes of 
 various colours, hut blue seemed the favourite and 
 predominating one. As I walked onward and 
 passed group after group on the way, the ladies, 
 as etiquette required, looked demure and shy, as if 
 they could neither speak nor smile. Sometimes 
 one past the middle age would condescend to 
 answer me goodhumouredly ; hut this was even 
 rare. The men on the contrary were chatty 
 enough, and so were the ladies too as soon as I 
 had passed them and joined other groups farther 
 a-head. Oftentimes I heard a clear ringing laugh, 
 after I had passed, from the lips of some fair one 
 who but a minute before had looked as if she had 
 never given way to such frivolity in her life. 
 
 But while I am still on a little eminence from 
 which I have been viewing man, let me turn to 
 the other and not less beautiful works of nature. 
 Behind me lay a large and fertile valley, the same 
 through which I had passed during the night, 
 intersected in all directions with navigable canals, 
 and teeming with an industrious and happy 
 
Chap. II. 
 
 SCENEKY. 
 
 27 
 
 people. As it was now “ the bonnie month of 
 May,” the rice crops had been some time in the 
 ground, and the valley was consequently covered 
 with dense masses of the loveliest green. Water- 
 wheels were observed in all directions, some 
 worked by men, and other and larger ones by 
 bullocks, and all pouring streams of water upon 
 the rice crops from the various canals which inter- 
 sect the valley. At the foot of the hills near 
 where I stood were numerous small tea-farms, 
 formed on the slopes, while groups of junipers and 
 other sombre-looking pines marked the last resting- 
 places of the wealthy. The ancient tombs of the 
 Ming dynasty are also common here, but they are 
 generally in a ruinous condition ; and had it not 
 been for the huge blocks of granite cut into the 
 forms of men and other animals, of which they are 
 composed, there would have been long ago no 
 marks to point out the last resting-places of these 
 ancient rulers of China. So much for human 
 greatness ! Higher up on the hill-sides the ground 
 was cultivated and ready to receive the summer 
 crops of sweet j;)otatoes and Indian corn. Beyond 
 that again were barren mountains covered with 
 long grass and brushwood, which the industry of 
 the Chinese is never likely to bring under culti- 
 vation. Both below and above, on the roadsides, 
 in the hedges, and on every spot not under culti- 
 vation, wild flowers were blooming in the greatest 
 profusion. In the hedges the last fading blossoms 
 of the beautiful spring-flowering Forsythia viridis- 
 
28 
 
 WILD FLOWERS. 
 
 Chap. II. 
 
 sima were still hanging on the bushes, while 
 several species of wild roses, Spiraea Reevesiana , 
 clematises, and Glycine sinensis , were just coming 
 into bloom. But look a little higher up to that 
 gorgeously painted hill-side, and see those masses 
 of yellow and white flowers ; what are they ? 
 The yellow is the lovely Azalea sinensis, with its 
 colours far more brilliant, and its trusses of flowers 
 much larger, than they are ever seen in any of our 
 exhibitions in Europe. The white is the little- 
 known Amelanchier racemosa. Amongst these, 
 and scattered over the hill-sides, are other azaleas, 
 having flowers of many different hues, and all 
 very beautiful. It is still early morning ; the sun 
 is just appearing on the tops of the eastern moun- 
 tains ; the globules of heavy dew sparkle on the 
 grass and flowers ; the lark and other sweet song- 
 sters of the feathered race are pouring out of their 
 little mouths sweet and melodious songs. I looked 
 with delight on the beautiful scene spread out 
 before me, and thought within myself, if Nature is 
 so beautiful now, what must it have been before 
 the Fall, when man was holy ! 
 
 As I approached Ayuka’s temple I observed 
 other roads leading to the same point, crowded 
 with people such as I have already described, all 
 hurrying on to pay their vows at the altars of 
 Buddha. The scenery in front of the temple, 
 although in a ruinous condition now, at some 
 former time was no doubt very pretty. Entering 
 through an ancient gateway, a paved path led 
 
Chap. II. 
 
 ANCIENT TREE — HAWKERS. 
 
 29 
 
 straight up to the edifice, over an ornamental 
 bridge, which at one time probably spanned the 
 neck of a small lake, in which was cultivated the 
 sacred lotus ( Nelumbium speciosum ), but which was 
 now in these degenerate days allowed to get choked 
 up with weeds. Near this bridge a noble specimen 
 of the camphor-tree ( Laurus camphora) lay pros- 
 trate on the ground, having been blown down by 
 a typhoon many years ago. The curious gnarled 
 and angular branches for which this tree is remark- 
 able when it is alive and standing, seemed more 
 striking in its prostrate and withered condition. 
 For many years this relic of former days had been 
 carefully preserved by the priests, and was now 
 looked upon by them and the visitors as nearly as 
 holy as the temple itself. From the gateway up 
 to the doors of the temple numerous stalls w r ere 
 erected for the sale of candles, joss-sticks, sycee 
 paper, and such things as are used in the worship 
 of Buddha. Others were of a less holy character, 
 and contained cakes and sweetmeats, toys, curi- 
 osities, and things likely to attract the notice of 
 the country people. It was curious to mark the 
 enthusiasm with which these pedlers endeavoured to 
 get off their goods. Every passer-by was pressed 
 to buy, and particularly those who had not their 
 hands full of candles, incenses, and other articles 
 which they were supposed to require. In many 
 instances I observed the venders actually laid hold 
 of the people, and almost forced them to spend 
 money on some articles ere they would allow them 
 
30 
 
 SCENE IN TEMPLE. 
 
 Ciiap. II. 
 
 to go on. Of course this was done in the most 
 perfect good humour. These pedlers are first-rate 
 physiognomists 5 they know at a glance those who 
 are likely to become customers, and, should the 
 slightest hesitation be visible on any countenance, 
 that man is doomed to spend his money ere he 
 passes the stall. 
 
 I now entered the temple itself, and found it 
 crowded with idolaters. The female sex seemed 
 much more numerous than the male, and apparently 
 more devout. They were kneeling on cushions 
 placed in front of the altars, and bowing low to 
 the huge images which stood before them. This 
 prostration they repeated many times, and when 
 they had finished this part of their devotions they 
 lighted candles and incense, and placed them on 
 the altars. Returning again to the cushion, they 
 continued their prostrations for a few seconds, 
 and then gave way to other devotees, who went 
 through the same forms. Some were appealing 
 directly to the deity for an answer to their peti- 
 tions by means of two small pieces of wood, rounded 
 on the one side and flat on the other. If on being 
 thrown into the air the sticks fell on the flat side, 
 they had then an assurance of a favourable answer 
 to their prayers ; but owing to the laws of gravi- 
 tation these stubborn little bits of wood fell much 
 oftener on the rounder and heavier side than on 
 the other, and gave the poor heathen a world of 
 anxiety and trouble. Other devotees were busily 
 engaged in shaking a hollow bamboo tube which 
 
Chap. II. 
 
 SCENE IN TEMPLE. 
 
 31 
 
 contained a number of small sticks, each having a 
 Chinese character upon it. An adept in shaking 
 can easily detach one of these sticks from the 
 others, and when it falls upon the floor it is picked 
 up and taken to a priest, who reads the character 
 and refers to his book for the interpretation 
 thereof. A small slip of paper is now given to 
 the devotee, which he carries home with him, and 
 places in his house or in his fields, in order to 
 bring him good luck. I observed that not unfre- 
 quently it was very difficult to satisfy these persons 
 with the paper given to them by the priest, and 
 that they often referred to those who were standing 
 around, and asked their opinion on the matter. 
 
 The scene altogether was a striking one, andwas 
 well calculated to make a deep impression on the 
 mind of any one looking on as I was. Hundreds 
 of candles were burning on the altars, clouds of in- 
 cense were rising and filling the atmosphere ; from 
 time to time a large drum was struck which could 
 be heard at a distance outside the building ; and 
 bells were tinkling and mingling their sounds with 
 those of the monster drum. The sounds of many 
 of these bells are finer than anything I ever heard 
 in England. Most of the fine ones are ancient, 
 and were made at a time when the arts ranked 
 higher in China than they do at the present day. 
 
 In the midst of all these religious services, 
 which candour compels me to say were outwardly 
 most devoutly performed, things were going on 
 amongst the worshippers which as foreigners and 
 
32 
 
 VISIT TO HIGH-PKIEST. 
 
 Chap. II. 
 
 Christians we cannot understand. Many, who had 
 either been engaged in these ceremonies or in- 
 tended to take their part in them, were sitting, 
 looking on, and laughing, chatting, or smoking, 
 as if they had been looking on one of their plays. 
 And it was not unusual to see a man fill his pipe 
 with tobacco, and quietly walk up and light it at 
 one of the candles which were burning on the 
 altar. 
 
 After looking on this curious and noisy scene for 
 a little while, I was glad to leave it for the quieter 
 parts of the building. I went in the first place to 
 pay my respects to the high-priest, and found him 
 occupying some small rooms built at one side of 
 the large temple. With Chinese politeness he re- 
 ceived me cordially and made me sit down on the 
 seat of honour in his little room. A little boy who 
 served him brought in a tray, on which a number 
 of teacups were placed filled with delicious tea. 
 Two* of these cups were put down before me, and 
 I was pressed to “ drink tea.” As the day was 
 excessively warm, the pure beverage was most 
 welcome and refreshing. Reader, there was no 
 sugar nor milk in this tea, nor was there any Prus- 
 sian blue or gypsum ; but I found it most refresh- 
 ing, for all that it lacked these civilised ingredients. 
 The good old man was very chatty, and gave me 
 a great deal of information about himself and the 
 temple. The revenues of the temple were derived 
 partly from certain lands in the vicinity which 
 
 The Chinese generally place two cups before a stranger. 
 
Chap. IT. 
 
 VISIT TO HIGH-PRIEST. 
 
 33 
 
 belonged to it, and partly from the contributions 
 of devout Buddhists who came there to worship. 
 The high-priest himself also contributed largely to 
 its support. On inquiring how this happened, he 
 informed me that he was obliged to contribute a 
 large sum — I think he said 3000 dollars — before 
 he could be elected to the office he now held, 
 and that he held it for three years only, when 
 his successor would have to contribute a similar 
 sum. This sum was spent in keeping the temple 
 in repair. I understood him to say that the in- 
 ducement held out to men of his class is high 
 honours at the end of the three years when they 
 retire into private life. 
 
 When we had sipped our tea, I then told the 
 liigli-priest I had heard there was a Shay-le or 
 relic of Buddha in the monastery, and expressed a 
 desire to see it. He appeared pleased to find the 
 fame of the relic had reached my ears, and sent 
 immediately for the priest under whose charge 
 it was placed, and desired him to show it to me. 
 I now bade adieu to the old man, and followed my 
 guide to that part of the monastery where the 
 relic was kept. On our way he asked me whether 
 it was my intention to burn incense to Buddha 
 before the box which contained the relic was 
 opened. I replied that not being a Buddhist 
 I could not do that, but I would give him a small 
 present for opening the box — a way of settling 
 the question which seemed to please him quite 
 as well as buying candles and incense to burn at 
 
 D 
 
34 
 
 THE SHAY-LE: 
 
 Chap. II. 
 
 the shrine. I found the precious relic locked up 
 in a bell-shaped dome. When this was opened 
 I observed a small pagoda carved in wood, and 
 evidently very ancient. It was about ten inches 
 or a foot in height, and four inches in width. In 
 the centre was a small hell, and near the bottom 
 of this the shay-le or relic was said to be placed. 
 “ I can see nothing there,” said I to my guide. 
 “ Oh,” said he, “ you must get it between you and 
 the light, and then you may see it ; it is sometimes 
 very brilliant, but only to those who believe.” 
 “ I am afraid it will not shine for my gratification 
 then,” said I ; but I stood in the position my 
 guide indicated. It might be imagination, I dare 
 say it was, but I really thought I saw some- 
 thing unusual in the thing, as if some brilliant 
 colours were playing about it. The Reverend 
 Dr. Medhurst, of the London Missionary Society, 
 who has since visited and examined the relic, 
 could see nothing “ because he had no faith ;” and 
 if at any time there is anything to be seen, such 
 an appearance could no doubt be easily explained 
 from natural causes. The priest informed me the 
 precious relic had been obtained from the top of a 
 hill behind the temple by their forefathers, who 
 had handed it down with the traditions attending 
 it to the present generation, and that they wanted 
 no further proof of its being genuine. 
 
 Shay-le, or precious relics of Buddha, are found in 
 many of the Buddhist temples. In a former work * 
 * Journey to the Tea Countries of China and India. 
 
Chap. IT. 
 
 ITS HISTORY. 
 
 35 
 
 I have described two in the celebrated monas- 
 tery of Koo-shan, near Foo-chow-foo in Fokien. 
 In a note published by the Reverend Dr. Med- 
 hurst the history of such relics is given by the 
 Chinese in the following manner : — “ The Buddh- 
 ists say there are 84,000 pores in a man’s 
 body, and thus, by following corruption and passing 
 through transmigration, he leaves behind him 
 84,000 particles of miserable dust. Buddha’s 
 body has also 84,000 pores, but by resisting evil 
 and reverting to truth he has perfected 84,000 
 relics ; these are as hard and as bright as diamonds, 
 affording benefit to men and devas wherein they 
 are deposited. * * * * Eight kings contended for 
 these relics, which were divided into three parts, 
 one being assigned to the devas, one to the nagas, 
 and the third to the eight kings. During Buddha’s 
 lifetime he was begging with O-nan in a lane, 
 when they saw two boys playing with earth ; one 
 of them, being struck with the dignified appearance 
 of Buddha, presented him with some pellets of 
 earth, expressing a wish at the same time that 
 he might in future become one of his most zealous 
 worshippers. Buddha then addressed O-nan, say- 
 ing, ‘After my obtaining nirvaan (nothingness, i.e. 
 death), this child will become a king, ruling over 
 the southern kingdoms, and building pagodas for 
 the preservation of my relics.’ This was Ayuka, 
 who afterwards built 84,000 pagodas ; nineteen of 
 these were constructed in China, and one of them 
 was fixed on the snow-hill in the prefecture of 
 
 n 2 
 
36 
 
 BUDDHIST TRADITIONS. 
 
 Chap. II. 
 
 Ningpo, commonly called Yuh-wong. About tbe 
 time of the Three Kingdoms (a.d. 230) a priest 
 named Hwuy came to Nanking, where he built a 
 shed. The people thought him a strange being, 
 and brought him to Sun-keuen, the ruler of the 
 country, who asked him for the proofs of his 
 religion. Hwuy replied that Buddha left a number 
 of relics, over which Ayuka had built 84,000 
 pagodas. Sun-keuen thought it was all nonsense, 
 and told him that if he could find a relic he might 
 build a pagoda over it. Hwuy then filled a bottle 
 with water, and offered up incense before it for 
 twenty-one days ; at the expiration of that period 
 he heard a sound proceeding from the bottle re- 
 sembling that of a bell. Hwuy then went to look 
 at it, and perceived that the relic was formed. 
 The next day he presented it to Sun-keuen ; the 
 whole of the courtiers examined it, and saw the 
 bottle illuminated with all sorts of brilliant colours. 
 Keuen took the bottle, and poured out its contents 
 into a dish ; when the relic came in contact with 
 the dish it broke the vessel to pieces. Keuen was 
 astonished and said, ‘ That is very curious.’ Hwuy 
 then addressed him, saying, ‘ This relic is not only 
 capable of emitting light, but no fire will burn, 
 nor diamond-headed hammer bruise it.’ He then 
 placed the relic on an anvil, and caused a strong 
 man to strike it with all his might, when the 
 hammer and anvil were both broken, and the 
 relic remained uninjured. Keuen then assented to 
 the construction of the pagoda. The Chinese say 
 
Chap. II. 
 
 A PICNIC. 
 
 37 
 
 that they can sometimes discern the relic illumined 
 with brilliant colours, and as big as a cart-wheel, 
 while the unbelievers can see nothing at all.” 
 
 Such are the Chinese traditions concerning 
 these so-called precious relics of Buddha, which 
 one meets with so frequently in Buddhist temples, 
 not only in China, but also in India. 
 
 After inspecting this precious relic I returned 
 through the various temples, which were still 
 crowded with worshippers, to the open air. As 
 the day was warm, I sought shelter from the 
 scorching rays of the sun in a little wood of bam- 
 boos and pines which was close at hand. Here 
 I mixed with groups of worshippers who were now 
 picnicking under the shade which the trees afforded. 
 Each little group had brought its own provisions, 
 which appeared to be relished with great zest. In 
 many instances I was asked to join with them 
 and partake of their homely fare, an invitation 
 which I declined, I trust, in as polite a manner as 
 that in which it was given. Many of them seemed 
 weary and footsore with their long journey, but 
 all were apparently happy and contented, and 
 during the day I did not observe a single instance 
 of drunkenness or any disturbance whatsoever. 
 The Chinese as a nation are a quiet and sober 
 race : their disturbances when they have them are 
 unusually noisy, but they rarely come to blows, 
 and drunkenness is almost unknown in the country 
 districts, and rare even in densely populated cities. 
 
38 
 
 THE TEMPLE AT NIGHT. 
 
 Chai\ II. 
 
 In these respects the lower orders in China con- 
 trast favourably with the same classes in Europe, 
 or even in India. 
 
 When the sun had got a little to the westward, 
 and his rays less powerful, I left the temple and 
 took my way to the hills. In a few minutes that 
 busy scene of idol-worship which I have endea- 
 voured to describe was completely shut out from 
 my view. As I went along I came sometimes 
 unexpectedly on a quiet and lonely valley where 
 the industrious labourers were busily at work in 
 the fields, or on a hill-side where the natives were 
 gathering their first crop of tea. Here is no 
 apparent want, and certainly no ojipression ; the 
 labourer is strong, healthy, and willing to work, 
 but independent, and feels that he is “ worthy of 
 his hire.” None of that idleness and cringing is 
 here which one sees amongst the natives of India, 
 for example, and other eastern nations. 
 
 Time passed swiftly by when wandering amongst 
 such interesting scenery, and as evening was 
 coming on I returned to the temple, in which 
 I proposed taking up my quarters for the night. 
 Now the scene had entirely changed : the busy 
 crowds of worshippers were gone, the sounds of bell 
 and drum had ceased, and the place which a short 
 time before was teeming with life was now as 
 silent as the grave. The huge idols — many of 
 them full thirty feet high — looked more solemn in 
 the twilight than they had done during the day. 
 
Chap. II. 
 
 THE QUEEN OF HEAVEN. 
 
 39 
 
 The Maharadjas, or four great kings of Devas, 
 looked quite fierce; Me-lie-Fuh, or the merciful 
 one , a stout, jovial-looking personage, always 
 laughing and in good-humour, seemed now to 
 grin at me; while the three precious Buddhas, the 
 past, present, and future, looked far more solemn 
 and imposing than they usually do by day. The 
 Queen of Heaven (Kwan-yin), with her child in her 
 arms, and with rocks, clouds, and ocean scenery in 
 the background, rudely carved in wood and gaudily 
 painted, was the only one that did not seem to 
 frown. What a strange representation this is, 
 rude though it be ! some have supposed that this 
 image represents the Virgin Mary and infant 
 Saviour, and argue from this that Buddhism and 
 Christianity have been mixed up in the formation 
 of the Buddhist religion, or that the earlier 
 Buddhists in Tibet and India have had some slight 
 glimmerings of the Christian faith. The traveller 
 and missionary M. Hue is, I believe, of this 
 opinion. At first sight this seems a very plausible 
 theory, but in the opinion of some good Oriental 
 scholars it is not borne out by facts. The goddess 
 is prayed to by women who are desirous of having 
 children, and she holds in her arms a child which 
 she seems in the act of presenting to them in 
 answer to their petitions. Chinese ladies have 
 curious prejudices on this subject : they imagine 
 that by leaving their shoes in the shrine of the 
 goddess they are the more likely to receive an 
 
40 
 
 SUPERSTITIONS OP WOMEN. 
 
 Chap. II. 
 
 answer to their prayer. Hence it is not unusual 
 to see a whole heap of tiny shoes in one of these 
 shrines. In former days the custom of throwing 
 an old shoe after a person for luck was not unusual 
 in Scotland, and may have been introduced from 
 that ancient country to China or vice versa. 
 
Chap. III. 
 
 TEA-GATHERERS. 
 
 41 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Tea-gatherers and their wages — Food of Chinese labourers compared 
 with the food of the same class in England — Old city of Tse-kee — 
 Sheds and shops — Market — Mode of skinning frogs — Temple on 
 hill and fine scenery — - Lake near north gate — - Temples and priests 
 — My servant’s mode of answering questions — Chesnut-trees dis- 
 covered — • Introduced to India — Chinese tombs and ceremonies — 
 A widow comes to worship — Beggars and coffins — Different cus- 
 toms in different countries — Reflections. 
 
 I made Ayuka’s temple my head-quarters for 
 several days after the events took place which I 
 have related in the previous chapter. My time 
 was now fully occupied in visiting all the tea- 
 farms in the neighbourhood, and in getting in- 
 formation concerning the cultivation and manu- 
 facture of tea. It was the harvest-time for the 
 principal crop of the season, and the natives were 
 observed on every hill-side busily engaged in 
 gathering the leaves. These tea-gatherers were 
 generally seen in small groups consisting of from 
 eight to twelve persons. One old man was 
 usually at the head of each group, the others 
 being women and children. Each had a small 
 stool formed like the letter T, hut broad of course 
 at the top, for sitting on while gathering the 
 leaves on the lower sides of the bushes. The foot 
 of the stool being pointed, it was easily forced into 
 
42 
 
 WAGES AND FOOD OF LABOURERS. Chap. III. 
 
 the ground in order to render it steady, and as 
 easily drawn out and carried to a different spot. 
 When these tea-gatherers are hired they are not 
 paid by the day, hut by the quantity of leaves 
 they bring in to their employers. In making 
 inquiries on the point I found they were paid at 
 the rate of four and five cash a catty, and that 
 they were able to gather from thirty to forty catty 
 a-day.* In other words, each was able to gather 
 from forty to fifty-three pounds of raw leaves per 
 day, for which was received from 6c?. to 9 d., or 
 thereabouts. But it is only very expert and well- 
 trained hands that can make such a sum as this ; 
 children and very old people make, of course, some- 
 thing considerably less. Wages of labourers in the 
 tea districts of China range from 2d. to 3c?. per day 
 with their food, which is almost always furnished 
 by the farmers, and which may cost about 3 d. or 
 4 d. more, making the whole day’s labour amount 
 to 6c?. or 7 d. The food of these people is of the 
 simplest kind — namely, rice, vegetables, and a 
 small portion of animal food, such as fish or pork. 
 But the poorest classes in China seem to under- 
 stand the art of preparing their food much better 
 than the same classes at home. With the simple 
 substances I have named the Chinese labourer 
 contrives to make a number of very savoury 
 dishes, upon which he breakfasts or dines most 
 sumptuously. In Scotland, in former days — and I 
 suppose it is much the same now — the harvest 
 
 * 100 cash are about 4pi. of our money ; a catty is equal to p lb. 
 
Chap. III. 
 
 TSE-KEE. 
 
 43 
 
 labourer’s breakfast consisted of porridge and 
 milk, bis dinner of bread and beer, and porridge 
 and milk again for supper. A Cbinaman would 
 starve upon such food. Again, if one looks at 
 our sailors making their dinner upon dry salt beef 
 and biscuit, the contrast is equally marked. The 
 dinner of the Chinese sailor is not a whit more 
 expensive, but much more agreeable, healthy, and 
 civilised. Chinese tea-manufacturers whom I 
 have been in the habit of taking to India always 
 asserted they got sick when obliged to live on such 
 food as is given to our sailors, and generally laid 
 in a private stock of various little articles with 
 which they were able to make up a dinner of a 
 very different kind. 
 
 Having completed my investigations in this 
 part of the country for the present, I bade adieu to 
 my kind friends in Ayuka’s temple, and returned 
 to Ningpo on my way to the old city of Tse-kee. 
 This is a very ancient place, about ten or twelve 
 miles north-west from Ningpo, and near one of the 
 branches of the river which flows past that town. 
 Leaving Ningpo with the first of the flood-tide in 
 the evening, and going on all night, I found 
 myself close by the walls of Tse-kee at daylight 
 next morning. As it was necessary for me to 
 remain in this neighbourhood for some time, I 
 looked out for a pleasant spot for head-quarters. 
 Taking my boat into the canal or moat which has 
 been made round a portion of the city, I found 
 such a place as I wanted near the north gate ; 
 
44 
 
 TSE-KEE. 
 
 Chap. III. 
 
 and as my boat was comfortable enough, though 
 small, I determined to live in it, instead of going 
 to a temple or an inn. Leaving my servants to 
 prepare my breakfast and to get their own, I 
 sauntered into the city. I found it a very ancient 
 place, and famous as being the residence of many 
 of the wealthiest persons in this part of China. 
 Its walls seemed to be about three miles in cir- 
 cumference, but they enclosed numerous fields and 
 gardens as well as houses. The dwellings of the 
 rich were mostly surrounded with high walls, and 
 were not visible from the streets. This is a com- 
 mon mode of building, as it secures the privacy of 
 the female members of the family in a country 
 like China, where it is the custom to keep them 
 much secluded. 
 
 I had entered the city by the north gate, and in 
 a few minutes had a crowd of people at my heels. 
 “ Where had I come from ? ” “ where was I going 
 to ? ” and “ what was I wanting to buy ? ” were 
 questions which were put on all sides. The 
 crowd appeared to be perfectly good-humoured, 
 and treated me with the greatest deference and 
 respect. Some ran on before me, and seemed to 
 take a great deal of pleasure in spreading the 
 information of my arrival. The consequence was, 
 that every door and window was full of people 
 anxious to get a look at the foreigner. It was 
 perfectly useless to remonstrate or to get angry, 
 so I was all smiles and took everything in good 
 part. Near the centre of the city, and in one of 
 
Chap. III. 
 
 SKINNING PROGS. 
 
 45 
 
 the principal streets, I found a most excellent 
 market. For fully half a mile this street was 
 literally crowded with articles of food. Fish, 
 pork, fowls, ducks, vegetables of many kinds, and 
 the fruits of the season, lined its sides. Mush- 
 rooms were abundant, and excellent, as I after- 
 wards proved by having some cooked. Frogs 
 seemed much in demand. They are brought to 
 market in tubs and baskets, and the vender em- 
 ploys himself in skinning them as he sits making 
 sales. He is extremely expert at this part of his 
 business. He takes up the frog in his left hand, 
 and with a knife which he holds in his right 
 chops off the fore part of its head. The skin is 
 then drawn hack over the body and down to the 
 feet, which are chopped off and thrown away. 
 The poor frog, still alive, but headless, skinless, 
 and without feet, is then thrown into another tub, 
 and the operation is repeated on the rest in the 
 same way. Every now and then the artist lays 
 down his knife, and takes up his scales to weigh 
 these animals for his customers and make his 
 sales. Everything in this civilised country, whe- 
 ther it be gold or silver, geese or frogs, is sold by 
 weight. 
 
 Raw tea-leaves— -that is, just as they had been 
 plucked from the bushes, and unmanufactured — 
 were also exposed for sale in this market. They 
 were sold at from three farthings to five farthings 
 a pound ; and as it takes about four pounds of raw 
 leaves to make one pound of tea, it follows that 
 
46 
 
 MARKET. 
 
 Chap. III. 
 
 tlie price paid was at the rate of threepence to 
 fivepence a pound, but to this must be added the 
 expense of manipulation. In this manner the 
 inhabitants of large towns in China, who have no 
 tea-farms of their own, can buy the raw leaves in 
 the market, and manufacture the beverage for 
 themselves and in their own way. 
 
 The streets in the city of Tse-kee are narrow, 
 and the shops for the most part have a mean 
 appearance. The wealthy inhabitants, with whom 
 the city abounds, appear to get their supplies of 
 everything except food from the large cities, such 
 as Ningpo and Hangchow. But food must he 
 supplied on the spot, and hence the necessity for 
 such a fine market as I have noticed. It is here 
 as in western countries — the market takes place 
 in the morning. In the afternoon this busy 
 street was almost deserted : the fishmonger had 
 sold his fish, the butcher his pork ; and all that 
 band of rosy-cheeked countrymen who in the 
 morning had been vending their loads of vege- 
 tables and fruits had returned to their homes with 
 strings of cash, the proceeds of their sales, in their 
 baskets or slung over their shoulders. 
 
 The scenery round the ancient city of Tse-kee is 
 of the most romantic and beautiful description. 
 The city stands on a flat plain, and is surrounded 
 by hills varying in height from two or three hun- 
 dred to one thousand feet above the level of the 
 plain. Some are crowned with temples having a 
 most imposing appearance in the distance, and from 
 
Chap. III. 
 
 SCENERY. 
 
 47 
 
 which the most charming views can he obtained. 
 One of these, and the finest, is near the east gate 
 of the city. It is approached by an avenue of 
 pine-trees, and a broad flight of stone steps leads 
 from the bottom of the hill to its summit, where 
 the temple stands. From the higher rooms of 
 this temple the visitor sees a wide extent of level 
 country, exceedingly fertile and well watered. 
 His eye follows the windings of the Ningpo river 
 for many miles in a westerly direction, until it is 
 lost amongst the distant hills. Canals, many of 
 which are broad and deep, intersect the country 
 in all directions, and afford not only a plentiful 
 supply of water for the irrigation of the rice-crops, 
 but bear on their surface thousands of boats of many 
 different sizes, all hurrying to and fro and carry- 
 ing on the commerce of the country. It is a 
 pretty sight to see the numerous white or brown 
 sails over the land, bending to the breeze, or 
 flapping about in a calm sunny morning. Look- 
 ing south and eastward, the eye rests upon the 
 wide plain of Ningpo, and in a clear day the high 
 mountains which bound its furthest sides are dis- 
 tinctly visible. 
 
 It is difficult, where all is so beautiful, to fix 
 upon the prettiest spot, but that near the north 
 gate, where my boat lay, appeared to me the most 
 lovely of all. Between the north gate and the 
 hills there is a pretty lake, which is crossed by a 
 causeway with arches and alcoves. This cause- 
 way led from the city to a range of temples 
 
48 
 
 TEMPLES AND PRIESTS. 
 
 Chap. III. 
 
 situated at the base of the hills. A side view of 
 this causeway, with its round-arched bridge and 
 alcove, the smooth water of the lake, the rich 
 vegetation on its banks, and the temples at the 
 foot of the hills, would form a lovely picture 
 worthy of the pencil of our first European artists. 
 I have looked on this scene in early morning 
 when the mist was rising from the water, at noon 
 on a summer’s day when the water appeared to 
 have been melted with the fierceness of the sun’s 
 rays, and again at “ dewy eve ” when all was still, 
 — and a more fairy-like spot it would be most diffi- 
 cult to find. 
 
 I found the temple beyond the lake a large 
 building, or rather a series of buildings, in tole- 
 rably good repair. Here were a number of priests 
 and their attendants, and no lack of idols of great 
 size. But these I have already noticed in Ayuka’s 
 temple, and shall not say anything further con- 
 cerning them here. The high-priest received me 
 with great kindness, and made me sit down in the 
 seat of honour by his side. A little boy, who 
 was destined one day to become a priest himself, 
 but who was now attending on his superior, was 
 ordered to set tea before us, which he did in the 
 usual style. Our conversation turned, as it fre- 
 quently did, upon the state of the country and the 
 rebellion. The old man asked me very earnestly 
 as to what I had heard of the Nanking rebels, and 
 whether I thought they would come to Hang- 
 chow and Ningpo. I told him he knew quite as 
 
Chap. III. 
 
 MASSACRE OP PRIESTS. 
 
 49 
 
 much of their proceedings and intentions as I did, 
 and that with my present knowledge it was im- 
 possible to form an opinion on the matter. He 
 said, if they did come to either of the places 
 named, they would not visit Tse-kee — an opinion 
 which I ventured to dispute. I then asked him if 
 he had heard of the massacre of the Buddhist 
 priests on Silver Island, near Ching-keang-foo, the 
 news of which had reached me a short time before. 
 This massacre was reported by some to be the 
 results of intense Christian feeling and hatred of 
 idolatry. The old man had heard of this, but 
 would not allow of the interpretation which was 
 generally put upon the matter. He told me — and 
 he was probably correct — that the priests had 
 been trying to save the lives of some mandarins 
 who had taken shelter in their temples, and that 
 for this sin, and not for idolatry, they were put to 
 death. The subject was evidently one of deep 
 interest to all the Buddhist priesthood, a con- 
 siderable number of whom now surrounded us as 
 this conversation was going on. 
 
 While engaged in this manner with the high- 
 priest the room had gradually become more and 
 more crowded with the inferior priests, with wor- 
 shippers who happened to be at the temple, and 
 with the servants and labourers who were attached 
 to it. It is a curious fact that, although the 
 Chinese as a nation have a high respect for their 
 superiors, they do not show it in the same manner 
 as we do. Hence it is not unusual for strangers 
 
 E 
 
50 
 
 QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. 
 
 Chap. III. 
 
 and servants to crowd into a room where visitors 
 are being received and entertained, and even to 
 take part in the conversation. My own servant 
 Tung-a was amongst the crowd, and was quite a 
 lion for the time. Hundreds of questions were 
 put to him as to my country, the time I had 
 resided in China, and the objects I had in view in 
 visiting the “ central flowery land.” He did not 
 fail to answer the whole in a most satisfactory 
 manner to himself and his audience, hut whether 
 his answers were to be depended upon or not was 
 quite another matter, nor did he seem to care much 
 so long as his interrogators were satisfied. Being 
 engaged during my spare hours in making a col- 
 lection of the insects of this part of China, Tung-a 
 carried in his hand, in addition to a small cork- 
 lined box and insect-net, a nice-looking bottle with 
 a glass stopper. This was an object of much 
 interest to the priests and their attendants, and 
 was handed about from one to another all over 
 the room. Before taking my leave I presented 
 this bottle to the high-priest, who was quite charmed 
 with my liberality, and almost went down on his 
 knees to thank me. Oftentimes afterwards I re- 
 newed my visit to the old man, particularly during 
 the heat of the day, when 1 was glad to seek 
 shelter from the burning rays of the sun, and 
 always found him kind and obliging. In the 
 autumn of this year I received from him some 
 valuable seeds which are now vegetating both in 
 England and India. 
 
Chap. III. 
 
 CHESNUT-TREES. 
 
 51 
 
 The lower sides of all the hills round this old 
 city are covered with trees, and have a very pretty 
 appearance. The Chinese pine ( Pinus sinensis ), 
 which is grouped about in all directions, attains to 
 a great size ; several kinds of oak, both evergreen 
 and deciduous, are also common ; hut perhaps the 
 most striking of all is the camphor-tree, which 
 with its gnarled and angular branches is quite the 
 monarch of the woods. Amongst these woods I met 
 with the chesnut for the first time in China. This 
 discovery was of great importance, as I was most 
 anxious to introduce this to the Himalayan moun- 
 tains in India. Many attempts had been made to 
 introduce it from Europe, but they had not suc- 
 ceeded. The seeds of such trees as oaks, chesnuts, 
 tea, &c., retain their vitality for a very short time 
 after they are gathered if they are not sown and 
 allowed to vegetate. It is therefore useless to 
 attempt to send these seeds in dry paper parcels 
 or in hermetically sealed bottles from Europe to 
 the north of India. The chesnuts which I had 
 met with in the markets of China, although ex- 
 cellent for the dessert, were generally too old for 
 vegetating ; but now, when I had discovered the 
 locality where they grew, there was no longer any 
 difficulty in procuring them quite fresh. There 
 are two species cultivated on these hills. One is 
 somewhat like the Spanish, and, although pro- 
 bably a- different variety, it produces fruit quite 
 equal in quality, if not superior, to the Spanish 
 chesnut. The other is a delicious little kind, bear- 
 
 e 2 
 
52 
 
 BUKIAL-PLACES. 
 
 Chap. III. 
 
 ing fruit about the size and form of our common 
 hazel-nut. Large quantities of both kinds were 
 procured in the autumn of this year, sown in 
 Ward’s cases, and sent on to India. Part were 
 sent to Government and part to the Agricultural 
 and Horticultural Society. They vegetated freely 
 during the voyage, and many hundreds of nice 
 healthy young plants reached India in the most 
 perfect condition. The chesnut may now be con- 
 sidered naturalized on the hills of India, and in a 
 few years will no doubt make its appearance in 
 the markets amongst other fruits. 
 
 The “ Yang-mae,” a species of Myrica , was also 
 met with on these liill-sides, and some grafted 
 plants secured for India. These are now luxu- 
 riating in the north-west provinces. This fine 
 fruit will no doubt succeed admirably in the Hima- 
 laya, for already there is a variety— far inferior 
 indeed to the Chinese kind, but yet a plant re- 
 quiring the same soil and temperature — common 
 on these hills. It is the Kaiphul of the hill-tribes 
 of India. 
 
 The most beautiful spots on these hill-sides are 
 chosen for the tombs of the dead, which are scat- 
 tered about everywhere. The sombre pine, the 
 juniper, the arbor-vitse, and the cypress are gene- 
 rally planted round the graves. As common as 
 these, and equally ornamental, is the Photinia 
 glabra , a noble evergreen which in the winter 
 becomes covered with bunches of red berries. 
 The weeping-willow is also sometimes used, and 
 
Chap. III. 
 
 CEREMONIES AT TOMBS. 
 
 53 
 
 has a very pretty effect, particularly when one 
 is planted on each side of the tomb. These 
 trees are planted in a half-circle round the grave, 
 leaving the front open. Within this half-circle 
 is the tomb itself, the most common kind being 
 covered with a large mound of earth faced with 
 stone in front, on which the name and age of 
 the deceased are cut and painted. In front of 
 this again is a stone pavement with smooth stone 
 seats, whether destined for the visitor or for the 
 spirit of the departed I cannot tell. Sometimes 
 I met with tombs of the most elaborate work- 
 manship, and constructed in many different ways. 
 Each told its tale of wealth or poverty ; some 
 must have cost very large sums, while others 
 consisted of the coffin laid upon the surface of 
 the ground, and thatched with a little straw. It 
 is a pretty sight, and yet a painful one too, to 
 see the relations of the dead visiting the tombs 
 of their ancestors, which they do at stated pe- 
 riods, for the purpose of burning sycee paper 
 and incense, and chanting prayers to the gods or 
 spirits of the departed. Sometimes a mother may 
 be seen with her children, the youngest probably 
 still an infant in her arms, assembled in front of 
 the grave of the husband and father. The widow 
 is wailing and lamenting her bereavement, and the 
 poor little ones look on so seriously, while every 
 now and then they prostrate themselves before 
 the grave. Or, it may be, it is the aged who are 
 paying the same respect to the last resting-place 
 
54 
 
 CEREMONIES AT TOMBS. 
 
 Chap. III. 
 
 of those who had been taken away in early life, 
 and to whom they had looked forward as the stay 
 and prop of their declining years. Or again, a 
 solitary individual might be seen performing the 
 same rites — young, middle-aged, or old, as the 
 case might be — which suggested the idea that he 
 was poor and friendless, the last of his race. It 
 has been asserted that there is little genuine feel- 
 ing in all this, that it is a custom which must be 
 observed, and that it would be just as well if such 
 a custom did not exist. I believe, however, there 
 is as much genuine sorrow amongst the Chinese 
 for the loss of relatives as there is amongst our- 
 selves ; and if we consider the way they dote upon 
 their children, and the reverence and love they 
 have for aged parents, we can come to no other 
 conclusion. That in many instances all is mere 
 show and required by custom, I have no doubt. 
 On one occasion, as I was wandering amongst these 
 hills, a chair passed me containing a very beautiful 
 lady dressed in the gayest satin. I caught a slight 
 glimpse of her countenance as she passed, and was 
 so much struck with her beauty that I instantly 
 stood still and looked after the chair. It imme- 
 diately turned off the little liill-road in the direc- 
 tion of a tomb that had been lately made, where it 
 was set down by the bearers. Following this chair 
 were two female servants and a coolie with a box 
 of clothes, a basket of provisions, and some sycee 
 paper and incense. The lady, on stepping out 
 of the chair, commenced robing herself in deep 
 
Chap. Ill 
 
 THE MERRY MOURNER. 
 
 55 
 
 mourning by putting on a gown of sackcloth over 
 lier gay dress, but on seeing I was looking on she 
 stopped immediately and threw the gown to her 
 attendants, with whom she was laughing and chat- 
 ting away, as if grief and she were perfect stran- 
 gers to each other. Anxious as I was to witness 
 her proceedings, I felt it was wrong and indelicate 
 in me to remain in my present position, so I 
 walked onwards until a small hedge and clump 
 of bamboos hid the party from my view. I then 
 turned into the plantation, and selected a spot 
 where through an opening in the foliage I could 
 see all without being seen myself. The handsome 
 widow, for such she apparently was, had again put 
 on her sackcloth robe, her women were standing 
 by her side, and the wailing commenced in the 
 most business-like manner. This continued for 
 nearly half an hour, while at the same time in- 
 cense was burned, and various tawdry-looking 
 strips of paper were hung about the grave. At 
 last the ceremony was finished, the coarse sack- 
 cloth was consigned to the coolie, and the lady, all 
 gay as before, and with but little traces of grief, 
 stepped into her chair and was carried away. 
 
 For many weeks after these visits to the tombs 
 numerous long strips of gay-coloured paper are 
 seen hanging about the graves. In my researches 
 amongst these hills I was much struck with one 
 thing, which I must mention here, and from which 
 all may learn a useful lesson. Here and there, 
 amongst those tombs which had been cleaned and 
 
56 
 
 BEGGARS AND COFFINS. 
 
 Chap. III. 
 
 repaired^ and which bore all the marks of having 
 been recently visited by relatives, were some from 
 which no friendly hand had cleared away the weeds. 
 Ages ago they had been built without regard to 
 expense, and for many years they had been, no 
 doubt, visited by loving friends, who had burned 
 incense upon them, and strewed them with wild 
 flowers and paper streamers. But now they were 
 going fast to decay ; they were not visited or re- 
 paired at the usual and stated times ; and their 
 tenants had been long since forgotten. And as it 
 had been with these, so it would be with the others 
 which were now so carefully attended to. A few 
 years more, and their tenants too would be for- 
 gotten, however rich or however much loved. 
 
 When a wealthy Chinese dies at a distance from 
 his home, his body is brought back to his native 
 place by his relations in order that he may sleep 
 with his fathers. In front of an old temple near 
 Tse-kee I observed a number of coffins lying 
 under the verandah, and on inquiry found that 
 they had all been brought from some distance, and 
 had been laid down there until a lucky spot could 
 be found out for their final resting-place. Some 
 had apparently lain here for a long period of time. 
 Under the same verandah, and amongst these 
 coffins, a colony of gipsy beggars had taken up 
 their quarters, which to me had a curious appear- 
 ance. However, these people seemed to have no 
 supernatural fears of any kind, and were on such 
 friendly terms with their dead companions, that 
 
Chap. III. 
 
 ENGLISH GRAVE-YARDS. 
 
 57 
 
 the tops of the huge coffins were used as supports 
 for their mosquito curtains. “ What a traveller’s 
 story ! Beggars with mosquito curtains, — the living 
 sleeping with the dead ! ” Even so, gentle reader ; 
 we are now in China. 
 
 In a country like England we pride ourselves 
 upon our civilization and good taste. But let us 
 fancy a Chinese traveller paying us a visit and 
 writing a description of our grave-yards. How 
 different would his pictures be from those which 
 I have now given, and how horrified would he 
 be with our barbarism and want of taste ! “ The 
 
 English,” he would say, “ do not respect their 
 dead ; they crowd them into churchyards in 
 densely populated towns, and plant no pine-trees 
 or wild flowers about their graves. In many in- 
 stances they even dig them up before they are 
 fully decomposed, in order to make room for 
 others ! Their children look upon such places 
 with dread, and will not pass them willingly after 
 nightfall.” Such would be his reflections, or at 
 least would have been a few years ago. Let us 
 hope that in a very short period the good sense 
 of the people and the energy of Government will 
 do away with such relics of barbarism. 
 
 But what does it matter, says some stern moral- 
 ist, where one is buried — whether in the deep sea, 
 the crowded city, or amid the beauties of nature 
 on the hill-side ? I do not argue the point, but my 
 taste leads me to prefer the customs of the Chinese, 
 where one can sleep in peace after being buried, 
 
58 
 
 REFLECTION'S. 
 
 Chap. III. 
 
 where one’s grave is looked upon with love and 
 affection, and not with fear; nor would I object 
 to the spot being visited by loving children, who 
 come to shed a few heartfelt tears, and plant a 
 few wild flowers on the tomb of him they loved 
 so fondly. 
 
Chap. IY. 
 
 ENTOMOLOGY. 
 
 59 
 
 CHAPTER IY. 
 
 Entomology — Chinese ideas respecting my collections — My sanity 
 doubtful — Mode of employing natives to assist me — A scene on 
 returning to my boat — Curious tree- — Visit from a mandarin — 
 An endeavour to explain my objects in making collections of natural 
 history — Crowds of natives — Their quietness and civility — Beturn 
 mandarin’s visit — My reception — Example of Chinese politeness 
 — Our conversation — Inquisitiveness of his ladies and its conse- 
 quences — Beauty of ladies at Tse-kee — Our luncheon and adieu. 
 
 The liilly districts amongst which I was now 
 sojourning were particularly rich in beautiful and 
 rare insects. A small bottle, an insect-box, and 
 a net were continually carried both by myself and 
 men, and many were the fine things we captured, 
 as the cabinets of most of the entomologists in 
 Europe can now testify. This proceeding seemed 
 to astonish the northern Chinese beyond measure, 
 and, from the mixture of awe and pity depicted in 
 many a countenance, they evidently thought me a 
 little cracked in the head. The more intelligent 
 amongst them believed I was collecting for medical 
 purposes, and that all my specimens were destined 
 to be chopped up in a mortar and made into pills 
 to be swallowed by the sick. The Chinese have 
 not the slightest idea of the study of entomology, 
 and laughed at me when I attempted to explain 
 to them that insects are collected for such a pur- 
 
60 
 
 INSECT-COLLECTORS. 
 
 Chap. IV. 
 
 pose. Their medicinal value seemed to them a 
 much better reason for the trouble of collecting. 
 Amongst themselves an idea is prevalent that the 
 larvee of coleopterous and other insects form ex- 
 cellent food to give occasionally to young children, 
 and hence in my rambles I met not unfrequently 
 persons employed in collecting larvse for this pur- 
 pose. A species of toad, found in the rotten hollow 
 trunks of trees during the hot months, is eagerly 
 sought after by the young men in the army who 
 are being trained to the use of the bow, and to 
 whose bones and sinews it is supposed to give 
 additional strength. This strange-] ooking animal 
 sells in the market at from fourpence to eightpence 
 each, but it is extremely rare. 
 
 The children in the different villages were found 
 of the greatest use in assisting me to form these 
 collections, and the common copper coin of the 
 country is well adapted for such purposes. One 
 hundred of this coin is only worth about four- 
 pence-halfpenny of our money, and goes a long 
 way with the little urchins. A circumstance con- 
 nected with transactions of this kind occurred 
 one day, which appears so laughable that I must 
 relate it. As I went out on my daily rambles I 
 told all the little fellows I met that I would return 
 in the evening to the place where my boat was 
 moored, and, if they brought me any rare insects 
 there, I would pay them for them. In the evening, 
 when I returned and caught a glimpse of my boat, 
 I was surprised to see the banks of the stream 
 
Chap. IY. 
 
 SCENE WITH NATIVES. 
 
 61 
 
 crowded with a multitude of people of all ages and 
 sizes — old women and young ones, men and boys, 
 and infants in arms were huddled together upon 
 the bank, and apparently waiting for my return. 
 At first I was afraid something of a serious nature 
 had happened, but as I came nearer I observed 
 them laughing and talking good-humouredly, and 
 guessed from this that nothing had gone wrong. 
 Some had baskets, others wooden basins, others, 
 again, hollow bamboo tubes, and the vessels they 
 carried were as various in appearance as the motley 
 group which now stood before me. “ Ma jung ! 
 ma jung ! ” (buy insects ! buy insects !) was now 
 shouted out to me by a hundred voices, and I saw 
 the whole matter clearly explained. It was the 
 old story, “ I was collecting insects for medicine,” 
 and they had come to sell them by the ounce or 
 pound. I had unintentionally raised the popu- 
 lation of the adjoining villages about my ears ; but 
 having done so, I determined to take matters as 
 coolly as possible, and endeavour either to amuse 
 or pacify the mob. On examining the various 
 baskets and other vessels which were eagerly 
 opened for my inspection, what a sight was pre- 
 sented to my view ! Butterflies, beetles, dragon- 
 flies, bees — legs, wings, scales, antennae — all 
 broken and mixed up in wild confusion. I endea- 
 voured to explain to the good people that my 
 objects were quite misunderstood, and that such 
 masses of broken insects were utterly useless to 
 me. “ What did it signify — they were only for 
 
62 
 
 AUTHOR’S SANITY DOUBTED. 
 
 Chap. IV. 
 
 medicine, and would have to be broken up at any 
 rate.” What with joking and reasoning with 
 them, I got out of the business pretty well. As in 
 all cases I found the women most clamorous and 
 most difficult to deal with, but by showing some 
 liberality in my donations of cash to the old women 
 and very young children I gradually rose in their 
 estimation, and at last, it being nearly dark, we 
 parted the best of friends. I have been placed in 
 circumstances somewhat similar on various occa- 
 sions since, but I have hitherto managed to come 
 safely out of the scrape. Sometimes amongst all 
 this chaff there were grains of wheat, and not the 
 least striking was a beautiful species of Carabus 
 ( C . ccelestis), which was brought to me at this 
 time, and for which I gave the lucky finder the 
 large sum of thirty cash, with which he scampered 
 off home, delighted with his good luck. Paying 
 away sums like this for insects seemed to confirm 
 the natives in the views they had originally formed 
 respecting my character. The Chinese, however, 
 are as a people eminently practical in all their 
 views, and it mattered not to them whether I was 
 sane or not so long as they got the cash. They 
 now set to collecting in all directions, and brought 
 me many fine things. On returning home to my 
 boat in the evenings I was called to from every 
 hill-side, “ Ma jung ! ma jung ! ” (buy insects ! 
 buy insects !) and then the little fellows were seen 
 hounding down towards the road on which I was 
 walking. This distribution of cash amongst the 
 
Chap. IV. 
 
 A DOUBLE TREE. 
 
 63 
 
 children soon made me quite a favourite with their 
 parents, and in my walks in the country I was 
 invited into their houses, where I received much 
 kindness and hospitality. The poorest cottager 
 had always a cup of tea for me, which he insisted 
 on my sittting down and drinking before I left his 
 house. Before leaving this part of the province I 
 distributed a number of bottles, each being about 
 half filled with the strong spirit of the country 
 (samslioo). These were given to those who pro- 
 mised to make collections for me during my ab- 
 sence ; they were told to throw the insects into the 
 spirit when caught, and let them remain until I 
 came to claim and pay for them. By this means I 
 was able to add many novelties to my collection 
 when I again visited Tse-kee in the autumn, to 
 form my other collections of plants and seeds. 
 
 On one of my excursions amongst these hills 
 I met with a curiously-formed tree, which at first 
 sight seemed to confirm the old Yirgilian tale of 
 apples growing upon plane-trees. It was one of 
 those junipers (J. splicer ica) which grow to a con- 
 siderable size in the north of China, and which the 
 Chinese are fond of planting round their graves. 
 But although a juniper at the top and bottom, an 
 evergreen tree with large glossy leaves ( Photinia 
 serrulata) formed the centre. On reaching the 
 spot where it grew, the appearance presented was, 
 if possible, more curious and interesting. The 
 photinia came out from the trunk of the juniper 
 about 12 feet from the ground, and appeared as 
 
64 
 
 A DOUBLE TREE. 
 
 Chap. IV. 
 
 if it bad been grafted upon it ; indeed, some Chi- 
 nese in a neighbouring village, to whom the tree 
 was well known, did not hesitate to express their 
 belief that such had been the case, but I need 
 scarcely say this was out of the question. Upon 
 a close examination of the point of apparent union, 
 I found that, although the part between stock and 
 graft, if I may use the expression, was completely 
 filled up, yet there was no union such as we see 
 in grafted trees. There could then be only one 
 way of accounting for the appearance which these 
 two trees presented, and which is pretty well 
 shown in a drawing taken by a Chinese artist. 
 The photinia was no doubt rooted in the ground, 
 and had 12 feet of its stem cased in the decayed 
 trunk of the juniper. The apparent union of the 
 trees was so complete, that nothing could be seen 
 of this arrangement ; but upon tapping the lower 
 part of the trunk it sounded hollow, and was no 
 doubt decayed in the centre, although healthy 
 enough outside. 
 
 Upon showing the accompanying sketch to a 
 learned Chinese, the teacher of Mr. Meadows, 
 at Ningpo, he, like the villagers, fully believed 
 the photinia had been grafted upon the juniper; 
 and further, he informed me it was a common 
 thing in the country to graft the Yang-mae 
 ( Myrica sp., a fine Chinese fruit-tree) upon 
 Pinus sinensis , and that by so doing the fruit of 
 the Yang-mae became much larger and finer in 
 flavour. Having been engaged in procuring some 
 
Chap. IV. 
 
 REMARKABLE TREE. 
 
 65 
 
 the Chinese call the San or hill variety ( Myrica sa- 
 pida ) ; and further, I showed him some plants which 
 I had just purchased : hut all was of no use ; he was 
 “ convinced against his will,” and still firmly believes 
 the Yang-mae is usually grafted on the pine. 
 
 F 
 
 Yang-mae trees, which the Government of India 
 was anxious to introduce to the Himalaya, I was 
 somewhat better informed upon this subject than 
 the learned Chinaman. I told him the fine variety 
 of Yang-mae was grafted upon the wild kind, which 
 
 Remarkable Tree. 
 
66 
 
 VISIT FROM A MANDARIN. 
 
 Chap. IV. 
 
 Travelling as I was all alone, and engaged in 
 making collections of natural history, the objects of 
 which the natives could not comprehend, it was not 
 to he wondered at if my fame was spread far and 
 wide over the country. I had visits from several 
 mandarins and other wealthy inhabitants of the 
 district, and the way in which some of the more 
 timid of these gentry presented themselves was to 
 me highly amusing. One day, when I was busy 
 in arranging my collections, I heard a stranger’s 
 voice calling my servant, and on looking out at the 
 window I observed a respectable-looking man with 
 several attendants within a few yards of my boat. 
 From his manner he was evidently most anxious 
 to see me and what I was after, but at the same 
 time he seemed doubtful of the reception I might 
 give him. My servant having assured him that I 
 was perfectly harmless, he mustered courage at last 
 to come alongside. In the mean time I opened the 
 boat, and invited him to come inside. I suppose 
 my appearance and manners must have been more 
 favourable than he had been led to expect by the 
 report which had reached his ears, for he imme- 
 diately made me a most polite bow, and acce]:>ted 
 my invitation. When I spread out my entomo- 
 logical collections for his inspection, he seemed 
 perfectly astonished. “ Did you really get all 
 these in this district ? ” said he. “ Strange, that, 
 although I am a native, yet there are hundreds 
 of them I have never seen before.” I ventured to 
 hint that perhaps he had not looked for them, 
 
Chap. IV. 
 
 MY COLLECTIONS. 
 
 67 
 
 which he said was very true, and no doubt ac- 
 counted for his not having seen them. As my boat 
 was made fast to the hank of the canal, we were 
 surrounded by crowds of the natives, who, hearing 
 that I was showing my collections to the mandarin, 
 were all anxious to have a peep. Hundreds of 
 questions were put to each other on all sides as 
 to what I could possibly be going to do with the 
 numerous strange things which I had got in my 
 boxes. The more wise amongst the crowd in- 
 formed the others that all the insects were col- 
 lected to be made into medicine, but as to the dis- 
 eases which they were destined to cure, the wisest 
 amongst them were obliged to plead ignorance. 
 My servants and boatmen were often appealed to 
 for light upon the subject, but they only laughed 
 and confessed their entire ignorance ; nor did 
 they take the slightest trouble to convince their 
 countrymen that they were wrong in their con- 
 jectures. 
 
 When I had shown my collections to my visitor, 
 he put the question which the crowd had been dis- 
 cussing outside, and which discussion he had heard 
 as much of as I had done. Had I entered into the 
 merits of the study of entomology, he most cer- 
 tainly would not have been able to bring his mind 
 to believe I was telling him the truth. If, on the 
 other hand, I had told him I intended to make me- 
 dicine of my collections, although he would have 
 believed me, yet this would have been untrue. ‘So 
 I thought I might give him another idea which he 
 
 f 2 
 
68 
 
 OBJECT OF MY COLLECTIONS. 
 
 Chap. IV. 
 
 would comprehend and appreciate. “ In my own 
 land,” said I, “ many thousand le from this, we 
 have a great and good Queen who delights in the 
 welfare and happiness of her people. For their 
 instruction and amusement a large house* has been 
 constructed — far larger than any of your temples 
 or public buildings which have come under my 
 observation — and into this house have been 
 brought many thousands of plants and animals 
 collected in every country under heaven. Here 
 each species is classified and named by scientific 
 men appointed for the purpose, and on certain 
 days in every week the doors are thrown open for 
 the admission of the public. Many thousands 
 avail themselves of these opportunities, and thus 
 have the means of studying at home the numerous 
 forms of animals and plants which are scattered 
 over the surface of the globe. Many of the insects 
 and shells which you see before you are destined 
 to form a part of that great collection, and thus 
 persons in England who are interested in such 
 things will have the means of knowing what forms 
 of such animals exist in the hills and valleys about 
 Tse-kee.” My visitor seemed much interested with 
 the information I gave him, and, although he did 
 not express any surprise, I trust he received a 
 higher idea of our civilisation than he had enter- 
 tained before. What surprised him more than 
 anything else was my statement that a Queen was 
 the sovereign of England. I have often been 
 
 * The British Museum. 
 
Chap. IV. 
 
 CIVILITY OF NATIVES. 
 
 69 
 
 questioned as to tlie truth of this by the Chinese, 
 who think it passing strange, if it be really true. 
 
 Before taking his leave he gave me a pressing 
 invitation to pay him a visit at his house in the 
 city on the following day, or on any day it might 
 be convenient for me. I promised to do so, and 
 got my servant to take down his address, in order 
 that we might not have any difficulty in finding 
 his house. The door of the boat was now thrown 
 open, and I handed him out to the banks of the 
 canal. Here we made most polite adieus in the 
 most approved Chinese style, in the midst of a 
 dense crowd, who had been attracted by the rank 
 of my visitor, and partly perhaps by the reports 
 which had been spread about myself. 
 
 The crowd which had now collected was of a 
 mixed character ; hut owing, I suppose, to the 
 number of wealthy and respectable people in the 
 city, the individuals were generally well-dressed and 
 clean, and perfectly respectful and civil in their de- 
 meanour. Applications were made to me on all 
 sides for permission to enter the boat and inspect 
 my collections. This being entirely out of the 
 question, I had a portion of the cover removed in 
 order that their curiosity might be satisfied from 
 the banks of the canal. Entering the boat myself, 
 I opened box after box, and spread out my collec- 
 tions before them. My table, bed, the floor of the 
 boat, and every inch of space was completely 
 covered with examples of the natural history of 
 the place. “ Can all these things have been col- 
 
70 
 
 CIVILITY OF NATIVES. 
 
 Chap. IV. 
 
 lected here ? ” was on every lip ; “ for many of 
 them we have never seen,, although we are natives 
 of the place and this is our home.” And when I 
 pointed out some of the more remarkable amongst 
 the insects, and gave them the names by which 
 they are known to the natives, I was compli- 
 mented and applauded on all sides. “ Here,” said 
 I, for example, “ is a beautiful Ka-je-long (cara- 
 bus), which I am anxious to get more specimens 
 of ; if you will bring some to me I shall pay you 
 for them. That Kin-jung (golden beetle) you 
 need not collect, for it is common in every hedge.” 
 “ Oo-de-yeou ? ” — Do you want butterflies ? “ No,” 
 
 I replied, “ for you cannot catch them without 
 breaking them.” And so the conversation went 
 on, every one being in the best possible humour. 
 When I had shown them the greater portion of 
 my collections, the cover of the boat was let down, 
 and everything put away into its proper place. I 
 was now anxious to disperse the crowd, and for 
 that purpose informed them that, as the afternoon 
 was getting cool, I was now going out to make 
 further additions to my collections. “ Thank you, 
 thank you,” said many of them, making at the 
 same time many most polite bows after the man- 
 ner of the country, which I did not fail to return. 
 And so we parted the best of friends. When I 
 returned from my excursion it was nearly dark ; 
 the crowd had all 'gone to their homes, and quiet- 
 ness now reigned where all had been noise and 
 bustle a few hours before. One or two little boys 
 
Chap. IV. 
 
 VISIT TO A MANDAllIN. 
 
 71 
 
 were sitting on the banks of the canal waiting my 
 arrival, in order to dispose of some insects which 
 they had been lucky enough to capture during the 
 day. And so I went on from day to day, gra- 
 dually increasing my collections, with the help of 
 hundreds of little boys, who were delighted to 
 earn a few “ cash” so easily. The effect produced 
 upon the villagers was also most marked, and I 
 was welcomed wherever I went, and everywhere 
 invited to “come in, sit down, and drink tea.” 
 This picture is not very like many which have 
 been given of China and the Chinese, hut it is true 
 to nature nevertheless. I trust it may give a 
 higher idea of the civilisation of this people than 
 we are accustomed to form from the writings of 
 those whose principal knowledge was derived from 
 views at the great southern seaports of the 
 empire. 
 
 The day after that on which I had been ho- 
 noured with a call from the mandarin, I dressed 
 with more than ordinary care, sent for a sedan- 
 chair, and set out to return his visit. When I 
 arrived at his house I found that he was expecting 
 me. He was dressed in a long gown, bound 
 round the waist with a belt which had a fine clasp 
 made of gold and jade-stone, and on his head was 
 a round hat and blue button. He received me 
 with many low hows in the Chinese manner, 
 which I returned in the same way. He then led 
 me into a large hall, and invited me to take the 
 seat of honour. In all the houses of the wealthy 
 
72 
 
 VISIT TO A MANDARIN. 
 
 Chap. IV. 
 
 there are two raised seats at the end of the recep- 
 tion-room, with a table between them. The seat 
 on the left side is considered the seat of honour, 
 and the visitor is invariably pressed into it. 
 Scenes which seem most amusing to the stranger 
 are always acted on an occasion of this kind. The 
 host begs his visitor to take the most honourable 
 post, while the latter protests that he is unworthy 
 of such distinction, and in his turn presses it upon 
 the owner of the mansion. And so they may be 
 seen standing in this way for several minutes 
 before the matter is settled. It is the same way 
 when a man gives a dinner ; and if the guests are 
 numerous, it is quite a serious affair to get them 
 all seated. In this case it is not only the host and 
 his household who are begging the guests to oc- 
 cupy the most honourable seats, but the guests 
 themselves are also pressing these favoured places 
 upon each other. Hence the bowing, talking, 
 sitting down, and getting up again, before the 
 party can be finally seated, is quite unlike any- 
 thing one sees in other parts of the world, and to 
 the stranger is exceedingly amusing, particularly 
 if he does not hapj>en to be hungry. 
 
 After duly expressing my unfitness to occupy 
 the left-hand seat, and attempting to take the 
 other, I was at last forced into the seat of honour, 
 the mandarin himself taking the right-hand one. 
 As soon as we were seated a servant came in with 
 several cups of tea upon a round wooden tray, 
 which cups he placed upon the table between us. 
 
Chap. IV. 
 
 VISIT TO A MANDARIN. 
 
 73 
 
 Another servant presented himself, bringing a 
 handsome brass pipe with a long bamboo stem, 
 which he presented to his master. My host 
 handed it immediately over to me, and begged I 
 would use it, assuring me at the same time that 
 the tobacco was the best which could be had in 
 Ningpo. I declined the invitation, but took a 
 cigar out of my pocket, and returned the compli- 
 ment which he had just paid me. He informed 
 me he had once tried a cigar, but that it was too 
 strong for him ; so we compromised matters by 
 each smoking what he had been accustomed to — 
 he his long bamboo pipe, and I my cigar. As we 
 sat and sipped our tea — a delicious kind of Hyson 
 Pekoe — he asked me many questions concerning 
 my country and its productions. Our steamers 
 and ships of war he had seen at Ningpo, and he 
 owned they had pleased him greatly. “To be 
 able to go against wind and tide was certainly 
 very wonderful.” But when I told him that by 
 means of balloons we could rise from the earth, 
 and sail through the air, he looked rather in- 
 credulous, and with a smile on his countenance 
 asked me whether any of us had been to the 
 moon. 
 
 While this conversation was going on, a large 
 crowd had assembled in the court, and many of 
 them were pressing into the recejation-liall, in 
 which we were seated. The numerous servants 
 and retainers of the mandarin were also inside, 
 and even sometimes took a share in the conversa- 
 
74 
 
 THE MANDARIN’S LADIES. 
 
 Chap. IV. 
 
 tion which was going on ; nor did this seem to 
 give any offence to their superior. 
 
 On one side of the room there was a glass 
 window having a gauze or crape curtain behind 
 it, and apparently constructed to give light to a 
 passage leading to some of the other parts of the 
 mansion. While sitting with my host I had more 
 than once observed the curtain move and expose 
 a group of fair faces having a sly peep at me 
 through the window. These were his wives and 
 daughters, whom etiquette did not permit to 
 appear in public or in the presence of a stranger. 
 I did not appear to notice them — although I saw 
 them distinctly enough all the time — for had I 
 done so they would have disappeared immediately ; 
 and as one rarely has an opportunity of seeing 
 the ladies of the higher classes in China, I was 
 willing to look upon their pretty faces as long 
 as possible. A circumstance occurred, however, 
 which put a speedy end to their peep-show, and 
 for which they had no one hut themselves to 
 blame. Whether they had fallen out amongst 
 themselves about places at the window, or whe- 
 ther it was only a harmless giggle, I cannot tell — 
 it sounded very like the latter ; hut the noise, 
 whatever it was, caught the ear of their lord and 
 master, who turned his head quickly to the win- 
 dow in question, and darted a look of anger and 
 annoyance at the unfortunates, who instantly took 
 to their heels, and I saw them again no more. 
 
 The ladies in this part of China are famed for 
 
Chap. IV. 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 75 
 
 their beauty. It is a curious and striking fact 
 that in this old city and its vicinity one rarely 
 sees an unpleasing countenance. And this holds 
 good with the lower classes as well as it does 
 with the higher. In many other parts of China 
 women get excessively ugly when they get old, 
 but even this is not the case at Tse-kee. With 
 features of more European cast than Asiatic, and 
 very pleasing, Avith a smooth fair skin, and with 
 a slight colour in their cheeks, just sufficient to 
 indicate good health, they are almost perfect, were 
 it not for that barbarous custom of compressing 
 the feet. Perhaps I ought to add, that, from the 
 want of education — and this applies to females 
 generally in China — there is a want of an intel- 
 lectual expression in the countenance which ren- 
 ders it, in my opinion, less beautiful than it would 
 otherwise be. 
 
 I had now been chatting with my acquaintance 
 for more than half an hour, and thought it time to 
 take my leave. But when I rose for this purpose 
 he informed me he had prepared luncheon for me 
 in another room, and begged I would honour him 
 by partaking of it before I went away. I tried 
 to excuse myself, but he almost used force in order 
 to induce me to remain. He now led me into 
 a nicely furnished room, according to Chinese 
 ideas, that is, its walls were hung with pictures 
 of flowers, birds, and scenes of Chinese life. It 
 would not do to criticise these works of art ac- 
 cording to our ideas, but nevertheless some of 
 
76 
 
 LUNCHEON. 
 
 Chap. IV. 
 
 them were very interesting. I observed a series 
 of pictures which told a long tale as distinctly as 
 if it had been written in Roman characters. The 
 actors were all on the boards, and one followed 
 them readily from the commencement of the 
 piece until the fall of the curtain. Numbers of 
 solid straight-backed chairs were placed round the 
 room, and a large massive table occupied its 
 centre. This table was completely covered with 
 numerous small dishes, containing the fruits of 
 the season and all sorts of cakes and sweetmeats, 
 for which the large towns in this province are 
 famed. In addition to these there were walnuts 
 from the northern province of Shantung, and 
 dried Leecliees, Longans, &c., from Fokien and 
 Canton. Then there were many kinds of pre- 
 serves, such as ginger, citron, bamboo, and others, 
 all of which were most excellent. A number of 
 small wine-cups, made of the purest china, were 
 placed at intervals round the table. 
 
 Several of the old gentleman’s friends had now 
 joined us, and we took our places round the table 
 with the usual ceremony, each one pressing the 
 most honourable place upon his neighbour. The 
 day was excessively warm, and I felt very little 
 inclination to eat, but I was pressed to do so on 
 all sides. “ Eat cakes,” said one ; “ Eat walnuts,” 
 said another ; “ Drink wine,” said a third ; and so 
 on they went, asking me to partake of every dish 
 upon the table. It was useless to refuse, for they 
 seized hold of the different viands and heaped 
 
Chap. IV. 
 
 LEAVE-TAKING. 
 
 77 
 
 them on my plate and on the table at its side. 
 Various kinds of Chinese wines, hot and cold, 
 were also pressed upon me, some of which were 
 palatable, but scarcely suited to the English taste. 
 I took a little of each in order to please my enter- 
 tainer, and then confined myself to tea, which was 
 also set before us. 
 
 I had now prolonged my visit much beyond the 
 time I had set apart for it, and quite as long as 
 politeness demanded. But time spent in this 
 manner was not altogether unprofitable, inasmuch 
 as one gets an insight into Chinese life and 
 manners which we cannot acquire in the streets 
 or on the hill-side. My kind host and his friends 
 accompanied me to the outer door of the man- 
 sion, and, with the palms of our hands laid flat 
 together and held up before us, we bowed low 
 several times, muttered our thanks, and bade each 
 other farewell. 
 
78 
 
 VISIT TO A 
 
 Chap. V. 
 
 CHAPTER Y. 
 
 Visit a collector of ancient works of art — His house and garden — 
 Inspect his collections of old -crackle china and other vases, &c. — 
 Fondness of Chinese for their own ancient works of art — Description 
 of ancient porcelain most prized by them — Ancient enamels — 
 Foo-chow enamels — Jade-stone — Rock crystal — Magnetic iron 
 and other minerals — Gold-stone — Red laoquer and gold japan — 
 Porcelain bottles found in Egyptian tombs — Found also in China 
 at the present day- — Age of these — Mr. Medhurst’s remarks. 
 
 A short time after the events took place which 
 I have related in the last chapter, and before 
 leaving this part of the country, I paid a visit to 
 another Chinese gentleman, whose acquaintance I 
 had formerly made in an old curiosity shop in 
 Ningpo. Like myself he was an ardent admirer 
 and collector of ancient works of art, such as 
 specimens of china, bronzes, enamels, and articles 
 of that description. Neither of us collected what 
 are commonly known as curios , such as ivory balls, 
 grotesque and ugly carvings in bamboo or sandal- 
 wood or soapstone, and such things as take the 
 fancy of captains of ships and their crews of jolly 
 tars when they visit the Celestial Empire. Above 
 all things, our greatest horror was modern china- 
 ware, an article which proves more than anything 
 else in the country how much China has degene- 
 rated in the arts. The venders of such things 
 
Chap. V. 
 
 COLLECTOR OF ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 79 
 
 as we were in the habit of collecting knew us both 
 well, and not unfrequently made us pay for the 
 similarity of our tastes. Oftentimes I was in- 
 formed, on asking the price of an article, that 
 my Tse-kee friend was anxious to get it, and had 
 offered such and such a price, and I have no doubt 
 the same game was played with him . That what 
 they told me was sometimes true I have no doubt, 
 for in more than one instance I have known speci- 
 mens purchased by him the moment he heard of 
 my arrival. But for all this rivalry we were 
 excellent friends, and he frequently invited me 
 to visit him and see 
 his collections when 
 I came to Tse-kee. 
 
 I found him the 
 owner and occupant 
 of a large house in 
 the centre of the 
 city, and apparently 
 a man of consider- 
 able wealth. He re- 
 ceived me with the 
 greatest cordiality, 
 and led me in the 
 usual way to the seat 
 of honour at the end 
 
 .n .• l n Curious Pilgrim-shaped Bottle, enamelled with 
 
 ol the reception-hall. Butterflies, & c . 
 
 His house was fur- 
 nished and ornamented with great taste. In front 
 of the room in which I had been received was a 
 
80 
 
 CHINESE GARDEN. 
 
 Chap. V. 
 
 little garden containing a number of choice plants 
 in pots, such as azaleas, camellias, and dwarfed 
 trees of various kinds. The ground was paved with 
 sandstone and granite, and, while some of the pots 
 were placed on the floor, others were standing on 
 stone tables. Small borders fenced with the same 
 kinds of stone were filled with soil, in which were 
 growing creepers of various kinds which covered 
 the walls. Here were the favoured Glycine sinensis , 
 roses, jasmines, &c., which not only scrambled 
 over the walls, but were led inward and formed 
 arbours to afford shade from the rays of the noon- 
 day sun. In front of these were such things as 
 Moutans, Nandina (sacred bamboo of the Chinese), 
 Weigela rosea , Forsytlda viridissima, and Spiraea 
 Reevesiana. In opposite corners stood two noble 
 trees of Olea frayrans, the celebrated “ Kwei-hwa,” 
 whose flowers are often used in scenting tea ; 
 while many parts of the little border were car- 
 peted with the pretty little Lycopodium caesium , 
 which I introduced to England some years ago. 
 This pretty fairy-like scene was exposed to our 
 view as we sat sipping our tea, and with all my 
 English prejudice I could not but acknowledge 
 that it was exceedingly enjoyable. 
 
 The reception-room was hung with numerous 
 square glass lanterns gaily painted with “ flowers 
 of all hues several massive varnished tables 
 stood in its centre, while a row of chairs was 
 arranged down each side. Between the chairs 
 stood small square tables or tepoys, on some of 
 
Chap. Y. 
 
 COLLECTION OF ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 81 
 
 which were placed beautiful specimens of ancient 
 china vases. Everything which met the eye told 
 in language not to be mistaken that its owner was 
 not only a man of wealth, but of the most refined 
 taste. 
 
 After a few commonplace civilities passing be- 
 tween us I expressed a wish to inspect his collec- 
 
 tions. He led me from 
 room to room and point- 
 ed out a collection which 
 was enough to make 
 one’s “ mouth water.” 
 In some instances his 
 specimens stood on tables 
 or on the floor, while in 
 others they were taste- 
 fully arranged in cabi- 
 nets made expressly for 
 the purpose of holding 
 them. He showed me 
 many exquisite bits of 
 crackle of various colours 
 — grey, red, turquoise, 
 cream, pale yellow, and 
 indeed of almost every 
 shade. One vase I ad- 
 mired much was about 
 two feet high, of a deep 
 blue colour, and covered 
 with figures and orna- 
 ments in gold ; another 
 
 Porcelain Vase enamelled with figures 
 of Animals and Plants. 
 
 of the same height had a 
 
 Gr 
 
82 
 
 FONDNESS FOR ANTIQUE ART. 
 
 Chap. Y. 
 
 white ground witli figures and trees in black, 
 yellow, and green — rare and bright colours lost 
 now to Chinese art, and never known in any 
 other part of the world. 
 
 In one of the rooms I observed some handsome 
 specimens of red lacquer most elaborately and 
 deeply carved, and also fine pieces of gold japan. 
 There were also numerous bronzes and enamels on 
 copper, which my friend informed me were from 
 800 to 1000 years of age. His collections of jades 
 and agates was also extensive and valuable. 
 
 Taking the collection as a whole, it was the 
 finest I had ever seen, and was a real treat to me. 
 On going round the different rooms I observed 
 more than one specimen I had been in treaty 
 for myself, and I thought I could detect a good- 
 humoured smile upon my friend’s countenance, as 
 the same idea was passing through his mind which 
 was passing through my own. 
 
 On returning to the reception-room I found one 
 of the tables covered with all sorts of good things 
 for luncheon, which I was now asked to partake of. 
 It was, however, getting late in the afternoon, and 
 near my own dinner-hour, so I begged myself off 
 with the best grace possible, and with many low 
 bows and thanks took my leave much gratified 
 with what I had seen. 
 
 It is well known that the Chinese value ancient 
 works of art, but they differ from western nations 
 in this, that the appreciation of such articles is 
 confined to those of their own country. As a 
 
Chap. Y. 
 
 FONDNESS FOR ANTIQUE ART. 
 
 83 
 
 general rule they do not appreciate articles of 
 foreign art, unless such articles are useful in daily 
 life. A fine picture, a bronze, or even a porcelain 
 vase of “ barbarian ” origin, might be accepted as 
 a present, but would rarely be bought by a Chinese 
 collector. 
 
 But while they are indifferent about the ancient 
 works of art of foreign countries, they are pas- 
 sionately fond of their own. And well they may, 
 for not only are many of their ancient vases 
 exquisite specimens of art, but they are also samples 
 of an art which appears to have long since passed 
 from amongst them. Take, for example, their 
 modern porcelain, examples of which may be seen 
 in almost every tea-shop in London. The gro- 
 tesque figuring is there it is true, but nowhere 
 do we find that marvellous colouring which is 
 observed on their ancient vases. I often tried to 
 find out whether as a nation they had lost the art 
 of fixing the most beautiful colours, or whether in 
 these days of cheapness they would not go to the 
 expense. All my inquiries tended to show that 
 the art had been lost, and indeed it must be so, 
 otherwise the high prices which these beautiful 
 things command would be sure, in a country like 
 China, to produce them. 
 
 Without coloured drawings it is difficult to give 
 the general reader a correct idea of what these 
 specimens are which are so much prized by the 
 Chinese ; and although there are some valuable 
 private collections in England, yet our museums, 
 
 Cx 2 
 
84 
 
 OLD CRACKLE PORCELAIN. 
 
 Chap. V. 
 
 to which the public have access, are but meagrely 
 supplied. My descriptions, however, will probably 
 be understood by collectors of such articles in 
 this country. 
 
 To begin with what is called old crackle porce-t 
 lain by collectors. — The Chinese have many kinds 
 
 of this manufacture, 
 some of which are 
 extremely rare and 
 beautiful. In the 
 whites and greys 
 the crackle is larger, 
 and the older speci- 
 mens are often bound 
 by a metallic-look- 
 ing band, which sets 
 off the specimens to 
 great advantage. 
 White and grey are 
 the common colours 
 amongst modern 
 crackle — a manu- 
 facture not appre- 
 ciated either by the 
 Chinese or ourselves 
 — but the latter is easily known from its inferiority 
 to the more ancient. The yellow and cream- 
 coloured specimens are rare and much prized — 
 these are seldom seen in Europe. The greens, 
 light and dark, turquoise, and reds are generally 
 finely glazed, and have the crackle-lines small 
 
 Vase of Sea-green Crackle. 
 
Chap. V. 
 
 ANCIENT ENAMELS. 
 
 85 
 
 and minute. In colouring these examples are 
 exquisite, and in this respect they throw our 
 finest specimens of European porcelain quite into 
 the shade. The green and turquoise crackle 
 made in China at the present day are very 
 inferior to the old kinds. Perhaps the rarest and 
 most expensive of all ancient crackles is a yellowish 
 stone-colour ; in my researches I have seen only 
 
 Oviform Bottle of rare turquoise colour. Gourd-shaped Bottle of yellowish 
 
 stone-colour Crackle. 
 
 one small vase of this kind, and it is now in my 
 collection. 
 
 Of other ancient porcelain (not crackle) prized 
 by the Chinese, I may mention the specimens 
 (generally vases) with a white ground, enamelled 
 with figures of various colours, as green, black, 
 and yellow. It is a curious fact that the attempts 
 made at the present day by porcelain manufac- 
 turers to fix such colours invariably fail. 
 
86 
 
 ANCIENT ENAMELS. 
 
 Chap. V. 
 
 The self-coloured specimens, such as pure whites, 
 creams, crimsons, reds, blues, greens, and violets, 
 are very fine, and much prized by Chinese col- 
 lectors. Some exquisite hits of colouring amongst 
 this class may be met with sometimes in their 
 cabinets, and also in old curiosity shops. I. pur- 
 chased a vase in Canton about fourteen inches 
 high, coloured with the richest red I had ever 
 seen. I doubt much if all the art of Europe could 
 produce such a specimen in the present day, and, 
 strange though it may appear, it could certainly 
 not he produced in China. 
 
 But the most ancient examples of porcelain, 
 according to the testimony of Chinese collectors, 
 are in the form of circular dishes with upright 
 sides, very thick, strong, and heavy, and invariably 
 have the marks of one, two, or three, on the 
 bottom, written in this form, II, III- The colours 
 of some of these rare specimens, which have come 
 under my observation, vary ; but the kinds most 
 highly prized have a brownish-yellow ground, 
 over which is thrown a light shot sky-blue, with 
 here and there a dash of blood-red. The Chinese 
 tell us there are but a few of these specimens in 
 the country, and that they are more than a thou- 
 sand years old. A specimen shown me by a 
 Chinese merchant in Canton was valued at three 
 hundred dollars ! In endeavouring to make a 
 dealer lower his price for one in Shanghae, he 
 quietly put it away, telling me at the same time 
 that T evidently did not understand the value of 
 
Chap. V. 
 
 ANCIENT ENAMELS — BRONZES. 
 
 87 
 
 the article I wished to purchase. It was with 
 some difficulty I got him to produce it again, and 
 eventually I procured it for a much less sum than 
 I could have done in Canton. 
 
 Ancient Porcelain Vessel. 
 
 Within the last few years the attention of col- 
 lectors in this country has been drawn to the 
 ancient enamels of China. Many fine specimens 
 were seen in the Great Exhibition of the Works 
 of Art of all Nations in Hyde Park, and since that 
 time a number of specimens have found their way 
 into Europe. The specimens to which I allude 
 have the enamel on copper, beautifully coloured 
 and enlivened with figures of flowers, birds, and 
 other animals. The colouring is certainly most 
 chaste and effective, and well worth the attention 
 of artists in this country. According to the testi- 
 mony of the Chinese, this manufacture is of a very 
 early period ; no good specimens have been made 
 for the last six or eight hundred years. 
 
 In the province of Fokien I met with some 
 ancient bronzes, beautifully inlaid with white metal 
 or silver. These were rarely seen in any other 
 part of China. The lines of metal are small and 
 delicate, and are made to represent flowers, trees, 
 
88 
 
 FOO-CHOW-FOO ENAMELS. 
 
 Chap. V. 
 
 animals of various kinds, and sometimes Chinese 
 characters. Some tine bronzes, inlaid with gold, 
 
 are met with in ‘ this pro- 
 vince. As a general rule, 
 Chinese bronzes are more 
 remarkable for their pecu- 
 liar, and certainly not very 
 handsome, form than for 
 anything else. There are, 
 however, many exceptions 
 to this rule. 
 
 The curiosity - shops, 
 which are met with in all 
 rich cities, as well as the 
 cabinets of collectors, are 
 generally rich in fine spe- 
 cimens of the jade-stone 
 cut into many different 
 forms. The clear white 
 and green specimens are 
 most prized by collectors. 
 Considering the hardness of this stone, it is quite 
 surprising how it is cut and carved by Chinese 
 workmen, whose tools are generally of the rudest 
 description. Fine specimens of rock-crystal, 
 carved into figures, cups, and vases, are met with 
 in the curiosity-shops of Foo-chow-foo. Some of 
 these specimens are white, others golden-yellow, 
 and others again blue and black. One kind looks 
 as. if human hair was thrown in and crystallized. 
 Imitations of this stone are common in Canton 
 
Chap. V. 
 
 GOLD-STONE — RED LACQUER. 
 
 S9 
 
 made into snuff-bottles, such as are commonly used 
 by the Chinese. 
 
 Amongst other stones and minerals which are 
 found amongst the Chinese are lapis-lazuli, mala- 
 chites, magnetic iron, and numerous other samples 
 of the rarer productions of the country. But the 
 most curious and most expensive of all is what is 
 called gold-stone. This is an article of great 
 beauty, and very different from the imitation kinds 
 which are made in France, and largely exported 
 to India. Samples of the imitation frequently find 
 their way to Canton, but are little valued by the 
 natives. Most of the Chinese, learned in such 
 matters, with whom I came in contact, affirmed the 
 true gold-stone to be a natural production, and 
 said it came from the islands of Japan. It is very 
 rare in China ; I have not met with it in India ; 
 and whether it be a natural production or a work 
 of art, it is certainly extremely beautiful. My 
 friend Mr. Beale, of Slianghae, who has some fine 
 specimens, presented one to me for the purpose of 
 having it examined in London, but I have not yet 
 had time. 
 
 Specimens of red lacquer, deeply carved with 
 figures of birds, flowers, &c., and generally made 
 in the form of trays, boxes, and sometimes vases, 
 are met with in the more northern Chinese towns, 
 and are much and justly prized. What is called 
 “old gold japan” lacquer is also esteemed by 
 Chinese connoisseurs, and the specimens of this are 
 comparatively rare in the country at the present day. 
 
90 
 
 MR. MEDHURST’S REMARKS. 
 
 Chap. V. 
 
 These are a few of the principal ancient works 
 of art met with in the cabinets of the Chinese and 
 in the old curiosity-shops which we find in all 
 large towns. 
 
 According to the united testimony of my Chinese 
 friends, most of the porcelain I have noticed is of 
 a date much more ancient than those bottles which 
 have been found from time to time in Egyptian 
 tombs. I have in my possession examples of these 
 bottles found in China — generally in doctors’ shops 
 — identical in form, no doubt of the same age, 
 and having the same inscriptions on them as those 
 found in Egypt, and from all that I can learn 
 they are not older than the Ming dynasty. An 
 article on the proceedings of the “ China branch 
 of the Royal Asiatic Society,” by W. H. Medhurst, 
 Esq., her Majesty’s Consul at Foo-chow-foo, proves 
 this most satisfactorily, by showing that the in- 
 scriptions are portions of poetical stanzas by stand- 
 ard and celebrated Chinese authors who flourished 
 about that time. As the concluding part of Mr. 
 Medhurst’ s paper bears somewhat upon the matters 
 I have been discussing, I shall take the liberty of 
 introducing it in this place. 
 
 “ I have not been able to ascertain anything 
 equally satisfactory regarding the discovery of 
 porcelain. The earliest notice of its existence, as 
 a ware, that I can find, occurs in a poem by one 
 Tsow-yang, a worthy who lived in the reign of 
 Wan-te, of the Han dynasty, 175-151 b.c. ; but it 
 is only casually mentioned as ‘ green porcelain.’ 
 
Chap. V. 
 
 MR. MEDHURST’S REMARKS. 
 
 91 
 
 Pan-yo, a writer of the reign of Tae-che, of the 
 Tsin dynasty, a.d. 260-268, speaks of ‘pouring- 
 wine into many-coloured porcelain cups and the 
 biography of Ho-chow, an eminent character of 
 the Suy dynasty, a.d. 608-622, tells us that its 
 hero restored the art, then long lost in China, of 
 making Lew-le , a sort of vitreous glaze, by con- 
 structing it of porcelain. Writers of the Tang and 
 Sung dynasties mention it oftener, its use having 
 perhaps become more general in their time. I 
 should, therefore, infer that the manufacture was 
 not known previously to the first-mentioned date, 
 as it is not probable that so useful and valuable 
 a ware would have escaped historical or casual 
 notice, had it existed in sufficient quantity to 
 allow of its being applied to the manufacture of 
 common bottles. 
 
 “ I need only add that I have trusted in no 
 instance to hearsay evidence in bringing forward 
 the information I have herein collected, but have 
 carefully examined each authority myself pre- 
 viously to recording it upon paper ; and perhaps it 
 may not be out of place for me to remark in con- 
 clusion, that my teacher scouts the idea of associ- 
 ating these bottles with the Pharaonic epoch as 
 utterly visionary and absurd, it being impossible, 
 he says, that vessels composed of a ware univer- 
 sally acknowledged to be no older than the Han 
 dynasty, and inscribed with quotations from verses 
 that cannot, if the history of Chinese poetry 
 be true, have been written before the Tang dy- 
 
i)2 
 
 MB. MEDHURST’S REMARKS. 
 
 Chap. Y. 
 
 nasty, could liave found their way into tombs 
 which were contemporary with the earliest re- 
 corded events of Chinese chronology. He is, on 
 the contrary, decidedly of opinion that the bottles 
 in question were manufactured during the Ming 
 dynasty.” 
 
 Cuttle, same as found in Egyptian Tombs. 
 
Chap. VI. 
 
 BOAT-TRAVELLING. 
 
 93 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Boat-travelling — Unsettled state of the country — A midnight alarm 
 — Old quarters at Tein-tung — A good Buddhist priest — Chinese 
 farmers — Their wives and families — Chinese women’s passion, and 
 its effects — Women’s curse — The author is seized with fever — A 
 native doctor and his mode of treatment — Method of taking honey 
 from bees — Mosquito tobacco — Its composition and manufacture. 
 
 The scenes and adventures which I have endea- 
 voured to describe in the previous chapters, such 
 as making collections of insects and other objects 
 of natural history, paying and receiving visits 
 from Chinese friends, and examining collections 
 of ancient works of art, although noted down in 
 order to give an idea of the manners and customs 
 of the most wonderful people on the surface of the 
 globe, were merely my amusements in the midst 
 of other and far more important labours. The 
 country was examined for many miles in all di- 
 rections, and arrangements made with the small 
 farmers for large supplies of seeds of the tea-plant 
 and other fruit and forest trees which were likely 
 to be valued in India. My mode of travelling by 
 boat, in a country where the canals and rivers 
 are the highways, was well adapted to the ends 
 I had in view. I was, as it were, always at home ; 
 my bed, my clothes, and my servants were always 
 
94 
 
 STATE OF THE COUNTRY. 
 
 Chap. VI. 
 
 with me. I could go from valley to valley and 
 from hill to hill ; I could “ bring up ” when it was 
 necessary ; and when my labours were finished in 
 one place, I could go on, bag and baggage, to 
 another. Whenever the country was known to 
 me, or supposed to contain objects of little interest, 
 I used to travel by night and work during the 
 day. Thus my boatmen and myself worked alter- 
 nately ; they slept by day and sailed by night, 
 while I slept by night and worked by day. 
 At this time the country was in a very un- 
 settled state, owing to the rebellion which was 
 raging in many of the districts in the adjacent 
 provinces, and hundreds of loose characters, honest 
 enough when the Government was strong, were 
 now committing acts of robbery upon the quiet 
 and inoffensive natives. Very few Chinese tra- 
 velled by night, unless in large bands, whose 
 numbers were considered a sufficient protection. 
 My boatmen often remonstrated when they got 
 the order to move on, telling me it was not the 
 labour they were afraid of,- — they were willing to 
 work, — but that we should be attacked and robbed, 
 or perhaps murdered. These little scenes were to 
 me oftentimes exceedingly amusing. I would first 
 hear the boatman come to the bows where my 
 headman Tung-a was, and in a low whisper com- 
 municate his fears to him, and ask him at the 
 same time to use his influence with me in order 
 that we might remain where we were until day- 
 light. Then after a conference of this kind Mr. 
 
Chap. VI. 
 
 FEARS OF THE BOATMEN. 
 
 95 
 
 Tung-a would present himself with a very grave 
 face, and inform me that the Lou-da (head boat- 
 man) was afraid to go onwards on account of 
 robbers whom we were likely to meet during our 
 niglit-journey. We then held a little council of 
 war, consisting of the boatmen — including the hoy 
 I have already noticed, who, by the by, gave his 
 opinion like a man — my servants, and myself. 
 After a careful examination into the matter, if I 
 saw their fears arose from natural timidity more 
 than from any real danger, I used to point to my 
 gun-case, and tell them not to be afraid ; and so 
 in nine cases out of ten our little council broke up 
 with a determination to go on. But it would 
 have been the height of folly for a solitary tra- 
 veller in a little-lmown country to despise warn- 
 ings of this kind, more particularly when the 
 unsettled state of the empire was taken into con- 
 sideration. The boatmen had the strictest orders 
 to awake me should any suspicious vessel make 
 her appearance, and my rest was frequently dis- 
 turbed during the night, often, no doubt, without 
 the slightest reason. They were also to let the 
 strangers know they had a “ Hong-mow-jin ” (the 
 name by which foreigners are known in this part 
 of China) in the boat who had fire-arms with him 
 which he was prepared to use in case it was 
 necessary. From an intimate knowledge of the 
 natives in Chekiang, I considered these two pieces 
 of information of great value in preventing an 
 attack, for most of the natives here, unless they 
 
96 
 
 A MIDNIGHT ALARM. 
 
 Chap. VI. 
 
 are very hardened indeed, have a kind of super- 
 stitions dread of foreigners and foreign fire-arms. 
 
 Amongst many false alarms I had at this time, 
 there was one which I thought would have proved 
 rather serious. It was about midnight, and the 
 night was excessively dark. We were all sound 
 asleep, except one boatman, who was sculling the 
 boat — if indeed he was not as sound as any of us, 
 for these fellows go asleep at the scull like an 
 Indian at the punka — when we experienced a 
 sharp shock from our boat coming in contact with 
 another. I was up in an instant, thinking the 
 long-threatened night attack had come at last. 
 Throwing the moveable portion of the roof of my 
 boat on one side, I saw our antagonist lying along- 
 side of us. My men were out on the bows, and 
 my boatmen at the stern, ready to repel the in- 
 vaders. Through the darkness I could discern a 
 number of people crowding the other boat, but 
 not attempting to board us. I immediately hailed 
 them, and asked them who they were, and why 
 they had run against us. They replied they 
 were Ningpo men, that they were not robbers, 
 and that the accident had occurred owing to the 
 darkness of the night. We now set to work and 
 got the boats clear, and each proceeded on his 
 journey. I believe those who gave us the alarm 
 were more frightened than we were, and that each 
 took the other for the pirate. My servants and 
 boatmen were, however, of a different opinion ; 
 they believed them to be thieves, and said that had 
 
Chap. VI. 
 
 RETURN TO OLD QUARTERS. 
 
 97 
 
 a Chinese been in our boat instead of a foreigner 
 be would have gone away rather the poorer for 
 the encounter. The true state of the case must, 
 I am afraid, remain for ever a mystery ; but it 
 does not signify much. 
 
 As the summer advanced — it was now the 
 month of July — the weather became too hot to 
 live in boats. The thermometer frequently stood 
 at 100°, and once or twice rose to 110°, in the 
 shade. It was time, therefore, to look out for 
 other quarters, and, as I had a good deal to do 
 in the districts to the south of Ningpo, I deter- 
 mined on taking up my quarters in the old 
 Buddhist temple of Tein-tung. I have already 
 described this ancient place in my ‘ Wanderings 
 in China,’ to which the reader who wishes to know 
 more about it is referred. It is situate amongst 
 the mountains some twenty miles south-east from 
 Ningpo, and in the midst of an extensive tea- 
 country, which is becoming of more importance 
 every day on account of the large demand for 
 this article which has sprung up in Shanghae 
 since that port was opened to foreign trade. When 
 I arrived at Tein-tung I took up my quarters 
 with the priest with whom I had lived formerly — 
 a man with one eye, who is now well known to 
 foreigners who visit the temple. He is a very 
 superior specimen of the Buddhist priesthood, 
 intelligent and strictly honest and honourable. 
 I have often left things in his care for long- 
 periods of time, and felt as certain of having 
 
 H 
 
98 
 
 FARMERS AND THEIR FAMILIES. 
 
 Chap. VI. 
 
 them returned to me as if they had been in the 
 Bank of England. A man of this kind was 
 invaluable, as I was thus enabled to make his 
 house a sort of head-quarters for my collections 
 in the province until they could be conveyed to 
 Slianghae for shipment to India or to Europe. 
 
 On the present occasion he seemed delighted 
 to see me again, and gave me a hearty welcome. 
 Having established myself in my old quarters, I 
 took the mornings and evenings for my outdoor 
 excursions, and generally stopped in the house 
 during the heat of the day. In this way, with the 
 help of my good friend the priest, I entered into 
 engagements with many of the small farmers for 
 supplies of tea-seeds to be gathered in the follow- 
 ing autumn as soon as they were ripe. In a short 
 time all the little boys and girls in the country 
 were making collections of insects, land-shells, and 
 other objects of natural history for me, and were 
 delighted with the few cash they were able to 
 earn in this manner. I was thus fully employed 
 even during the heat of the day, when it would 
 have been imprudent to stir abroad. 
 
 The farmers in China, as a class, are highly 
 respectable, but, as their farms are all small, they 
 are probably less wealthy than our farmers in 
 England. Each farm-house is a little colony, con- 
 sisting of some three generations, namely, the 
 grandfather, his children, and his children’s chil- 
 dren. There they live in peace and harmony 
 together ; all who are able work on the farm, and 
 
Chap. VI. FARMERS AND THETR FAMILIES. 
 
 99 
 
 if more labour is required, the stranger is hired to 
 assist them. They live well, dress plainly, and 
 are industrious, without being in any way op- 
 pressed. I doubt if there is a happier race any- 
 where than the Chinese farmer and peasantry. 
 Being well known in this part of the country, and 
 having always made it a point to treat the people 
 well, I was welcomed wherever I went. I began 
 to feel quite at home in the farmers’ houses. 
 Here the female members of the family have 
 much more liberty than those of a higher rank. 
 They have small feet as usual, but they are not so 
 confined to the house, or prevented from looking 
 on and speaking to strangers, as the higher classes 
 are. If a stranger enters the court of the house 
 unexpectedly, he will see a number of ladies, both 
 old and young, sitting in the verandah, all indus- 
 triously employed on some work — some spinning, 
 some sewing or embroidering, and one probably 
 engaged in culinary operations ; and if the stranger 
 be an unknown foreigner, the whole will rise hur- 
 riedly, and disappear like a covey of partridges, 
 overturning wheels, stools, and anything else that 
 may be in their way. This was a frequent scene 
 in my earlier visits, but it gradually wore off 
 when it was found I was a civilised being like 
 themselves. These same ladies afterwards would 
 often ask me to sit down, and even set a chair 
 for me, and bring me a cup of tea with their own 
 fair hands ; and while I drank my tea, they would 
 go on with their work, laughing and chatting as 
 
 i 
 
100 
 
 WOMEN’S PASSION, 
 
 Chap. VI. 
 
 freely as if I liad been a thousand miles away. 
 But many of these Chinese ladies with all their 
 coyness are regular termagants, as the following 
 curious anecdote will show. 
 
 Happening one day at this time to be in a 
 bamboo forest, I came upon two men engaged in 
 cutting down some fine bamboo-trees. Just as I 
 came up with them, a farmer’s wife made her ap- 
 pearance from an opposite quarter, and was appa- 
 rently in a state of great excitement. The men, it 
 appeared, had bought a certain number of the trees, 
 which at the time of sale had been duly marked. 
 But in cutting, instead of taking those they had 
 bargained for, they had just cut down a very fine 
 one which was not for sale. The old lady was so 
 excited that she either did not see me, or her 
 anger made her disregard the presence of a 
 stranger. She commenced first in low short sen- 
 tences to lament the loss of the bamboo, then 
 louder and louder sentence after sentence rolled 
 from her tongue, in which she abused without 
 mercy the unfortunate men for their conduct. At 
 last she seemed to have worked herself up to a 
 frantic state of excitement ; she threw off her 
 head-dress, tore her hair, and screamed so loud 
 that she might have been heard for more than a 
 mile. Her passion reached the climax at last, 
 and human nature could stand it no longer. With 
 an unearthly yell and a sort of hysteric gulp she 
 tumbled backward on the ground, threw her little 
 feet in the air, gave two or three kicks, and all 
 
Chap. VI. 
 
 AND ITS EFFECTS. 
 
 101 
 
 was still. Up to this point I had been rather 
 amused than otherwise, but, as she lay perfectly 
 still and foamed at the mouth, I became alarmed. 
 The poor men had been standing all this time, 
 hanging their heads, and looking as sheepish as 
 possible. I now looked round to see what effect 
 this state of things had on them. They both 
 shrugged their shoulders, laughed, and went on 
 with their work. About a quarter of an hour 
 afterwards I came hack to the spot to see how 
 matters stood— she was still lying on the ground, 
 but apparently recovering. I raised her, and 
 begged her to sit up, which she did with a melan- 
 choly shake of the head ; but she either could not 
 or would not speak. In a little while afterwards 
 I saw her rise up and walk slowly and quietly 
 home. 
 
 Such seenes as that which I have just noticed 
 are very common in the country. A short time 
 after this took place I was passing a peasant’s 
 cottage, when I heard another woman just com- 
 mencing — when one’s ear gets accustomed, he can 
 always tell the commencement, middle, or near 
 the end. I stood with several persons outside the 
 cottage listening to this one, and soon ascertained 
 that her husband had been unfaithful to her — a 
 circumstance which she had just found out. It 
 was the same scene over again ; she got gradually 
 more and more excited, and then fell back sense- 
 less on the ground, and threw her feet in the air. 
 I now ventured round to the door, which was 
 
 i 2 
 
102 
 
 A CURSING WOMAN. 
 
 Chap. VI. 
 
 standing wide open. Her eldest child, a boy 
 about ten years of age, was trying to raise her 
 from the floor ; his sister, some two years younger, 
 was crying as if her little heart would break ; 
 while an infant was playing with its toy on the 
 floor quite unconscious of the sin and misery going 
 on around it. 
 
 These Chinese termagants work themselves up 
 into such passions sometimes for very slight 
 things, and their imprecations or curses are quite 
 fearful. One night an old woman in Ningpo had 
 a couple of fowls stolen. Next morning, when 
 she discovered her loss, she came outside her door, 
 and began in the following strain : — “ I have lost 
 two fowls ; some one has stolen my two fowls. 
 May he never thrive who has stolen my fowls ! ” 
 —and then a dead dog caught her eye as it was 
 floating down the river — “ May he die like that 
 dog ! May his body never he buried ! May his 
 children never visit his tomb ! ” and so on. I 
 forget if this old lady went quite off ; many of 
 them stop short and get pacified before they reach 
 the climax. 
 
 In the month of August I had a somewhat sud- 
 den and violent attack of fever. Whether this 
 was the result of exposure to the sun, or from 
 causes over which I had no control, it is impos- 
 sible for me to say. Unfortunately I had no medi- 
 cine with me at the time, and as I was far from 
 foreign medical advice I was glad to' put myself 
 into the hands of a Chinese practitioner. I con- 
 
Chap. VI. 
 
 CURE FOR FEVER. 
 
 103 
 
 fess I did so witli considerable reluctance ; but 
 “ a drowning man will catch at a straw.” There 
 were several medical men in the little tea-village 
 of Tein-tung-ka, within two miles of the temple. 
 My good friend the priest, with whom I was stay- 
 ing, offered his services to go and fetch one of the 
 best of these, an offer which was gratefully accepted. 
 When the doctor arrived I was in bed with a 
 burning fever upon me. After putting several 
 questions as to the time the fever came on, whether 
 I had daily attacks, and the time each attack con- 
 tinued, he then felt my skin and pulse, and looked 
 as if he understood the nature of the disease, and 
 could cure me. “ I understand from the priests 
 and your servants you are in the habit of bathing 
 every morning in the cold stream, which flows past 
 the temple ; this must be discontinued. You are 
 also in the habit of having considerable quantities 
 of Ke-me* put in your soup ; this you must give 
 up for the present, and you will live on conge for 
 a few days.” I told him his directions should be 
 attended to. He then despatched a messenger to 
 his house for certain medicines, and at the same 
 time ordered a basin of strong hot tea to be 
 brought into the room. When this was set before 
 him he bent his two forefingers and dipped his 
 knuckles into the hot tea. The said knuckles were 
 now used like a pair of pincers on my skin, under 
 the ribs, round the back, and on several other 
 parts of the body. Every now and then the ope- 
 
 * A kind of vermicelli, very good about Ningpo. 
 
104 
 
 CURE FOR FEVER. 
 
 Chap. VI. 
 
 ration of wetting them with the hot tea was re- 
 peated. He pinched and drew my skin so hard 
 that I could scarcely refrain from crying out with 
 pain ; and when the operation was completed to 
 his satisfaction, he had left marks which I did not 
 get rid of for several weeks after. 
 
 When the messenger arrived with the medicine, 
 the first thing I was asked to swallow was a large 
 paper of small pills, containing, I suppose, about a 
 hundred, or perhaps more. “ Am I to take the 
 whole of these ? ” I asked, in amazement. “ Yes ; 
 and here is a cup of hot tea to wash them down.” 
 I hesitated ; then tasted one, which had a hot, pep- 
 pery kind of flavour, and, making up my mind, 
 gulped the whole. In the mean time a teapot had 
 been procured capable of holding about three large 
 breakfast-cups of tea. Into this pot were put six 
 different vegetable productions — about half an 
 ounce of each. These consisted of dried orange 
 or citron peel, pomegranate, charred fruit of Gar- 
 denia radicans, the bark and wood of Rosa Banksi- 
 ana, and two other things unknown to me. The 
 teapot was then filled to the brim with boiling 
 water, and allowed to stand for a few minutes, 
 when the decoction was ready for the patient. I 
 was now desired to drink it cup after cup as fast 
 as possible, and then cover myself over with all 
 the blankets which could be laid hold of. The 
 directions of my physician were obeyed to the 
 letter, but nevertheless I lay for an hour longer 
 ere perspiration broke, when of course I got 
 
Chap. VI. 
 
 CURE FOR FEVER. 
 
 105 
 
 instant relief. Before taking his leave the doctor 
 informed me he would repeat his visit on the third 
 day following about ten in the morning, this being 
 about an hour before the fever was likely to re- 
 turn. He told me not to be at all afraid, and 
 gave me the welcome news that the next attack, 
 if indeed I had any more, would be slight, and 
 that then I would get rid of it altogether. 
 
 True to his promise, the old man was with me 
 on the third day, about ten o’clock in the morning. 
 “ Has the fever come on ? ” “ Ho,” I replied ; “ it 
 is scarcely the time yet. I suppose I shall have 
 it in another hour.” He now desired me to lie 
 down in bed, and the pinching process was re- 
 peated in the same way as it had been done before, 
 but if anything it was more painful. I had then 
 to swallow another large dose of pills, and lastly 
 the hot decoction from the teapot. Ere I had 
 drunk the last cupful my skin became moist, and 
 I was soon covered with profuse perspiration. 
 The fever had left me, and I was cured. I was 
 probably the first Hong-mou-jin the doctor had 
 treated, and he was evidently much pleased with 
 the results of his treatment. 
 
 Medical men at home will probably smile as 
 they read these statements, but there was no mis- 
 taking the results. Indeed, from an intimate 
 knowledge of the Chinese, I am inclined to think 
 more highly of their skill than people generally 
 give them credit for. I remember well, when I 
 came first to China in 1843, a celebrated prac- 
 
106 
 
 METHOD OF TAKING 
 
 Chap. VI. 
 
 titioner in Hongkong, now no more, gravely in- 
 formed me the Chinese doctors gathered all sorts 
 of herbs indiscriminately, and used them en masse , 
 upon the principle that if one thing did not 
 answer the purpose another would. Nothing can 
 he further from the truth. That they are not 
 surgeons I am fully prepared to admit ; that they 
 are ignorant of many of our most valued vege- 
 table and mineral medicines is also true ; but, 
 being a very ancient nation and comparatively 
 civilised for many ages, many discoveries have 
 been made and carefully handed down from 
 father to son which are not to be despised, and 
 which one ought not to laugh at without under- 
 standing. Dr. Kirk, of Shanghae, whose opinion 
 is entitled to the highest resjDect, informed me 
 he had discovered a most valuable tonic in com- 
 mon use [probably a species of gentian], equal, if 
 not superior, to any of the kind in our pharma- 
 copoeias, and there are, no doubt, many other 
 things of equal value unknown to Europeans and 
 well worth investigation. 
 
 During my sojourn in this place I had an 
 opportunity of witnessing a novel mode of taking 
 honey from beehives. The Chinese hive is a 
 very rude affair, and a very different looking 
 thing from that we are accustomed to use in 
 England, and yet I suspect, were the bees con- 
 sulted in the matter, they would prefer the Chi- 
 nese one to ours. It consists of a rough box, 
 sometimes square and sometimes cylindrical, with 
 
Chap. YI. 
 
 HONEY FROM BEES. 
 
 107 
 
 a moveable top and bottom. When the bees are 
 put into a hive of this description, it is rarely 
 placed on or near the ground, as with us, but is 
 raised eight or ten feet, and generally fixed under 
 the projecting roof of a house or outbuilding. No 
 doubt the Chinese have remarked the partiality 
 which the insects have for places of this kind 
 when they choose quarters for themselves, and 
 have taken a lesson from this circumstance. My 
 landlord, who had a number of hives, having 
 determined one day to take some honey from two 
 of them, a half-witted priest who was famous for 
 his prowess in such matters was sent for to per- 
 form the operation. This man, in addition to his 
 priestly duties, had the charge of the buffaloes 
 which were kept on the farm attached to the 
 temple. He came round in high glee, evidently 
 considering his qualifications of no ordinary kind 
 for the operation he was about to perform. Curious 
 to witness his method of proceeding with the 
 business, I left some work with which I was busy, 
 and followed him and the other priests and ser- 
 vants of the establishment to the place where the 
 hives were fixed. The form of the hives, in this 
 instance, was cylindrical ; each was about three 
 feet in height and rather wider at the bottom than 
 the top. When we reached the spot where the 
 hives were placed, our operator jumped upon a 
 table placed there for the purpose, and gently 
 lifted down one of the hives and placed it on its 
 side on the table. He then took the moveable 
 
108 
 
 METHOD OF TAKING 
 
 Chap. VI. 
 
 top off, and the honeycomb, with which the hive was 
 quite full, was exposed to our view. In the mean- 
 time an old priest having brought a large basin, 
 and everything being ready, our friend commenced 
 to cut out the honeycomb with a knife made appa- 
 rently for the purpose, and having the handle 
 almost at right angles with the blade. Having 
 taken out about one-third of the contents of the 
 hive, the top was put on again, and the hive ele- 
 vated to its former position. The same operation 
 was repeated with the second hive, and in a man- 
 ner quite as satisfactory. 
 
 But it may be asked, “ Where were the bees all 
 this time ? ” — and this is the most curious part of 
 my story. They had not been killed by the fumes 
 of brimstone, for it is contrary to the doctrines of 
 the Buddhist creed to take away animal life — nor 
 had they been stupified with a fungus, which is 
 sometimes done at home ; but they were flying 
 about above our heads in great numbers, and yet, 
 although we were not protected in the slightest 
 degree, not one of us was stung ; and this was 
 the more remarkable as the bodies of the operator 
 and servants were completely naked from the 
 middle upwards. 
 
 The charm was a simple one ; it lay in a few 
 dry stems and leaves of a species of Artemisia 
 which grows wild on these hills, and which is 
 largely used to drive that pest the mosquito out 
 of the dwellings of the people. This plant is cut 
 early in summer, sun-dried, then twisted into 
 
Chap. VI. 
 
 HONEY FROM BEES. 
 
 109 
 
 bands, and it is ready for use. At the commence- 
 ment of the operation which I am describing, one 
 end of the substance was ignited and kept burning 
 slowly as the work went on. The poor bees did 
 not seem to know what to make of it. They were 
 perfectly good-tempered and kept hovering about 
 our heads, but apparently quite incapable of doing 
 us the slightest injury. When the hives were 
 projDerly fixed in their places the charm was put 
 out, and my host and his servants carried off the 
 honey in triumph. “ Come,” said he to the ope- 
 rator and us who were lookers on, “ come and 
 drink wine.” “ Ay,” said the half-witted priest, 
 “ drink wine, drink wine.” So we all adjourned to 
 the refectory, where wine in small cups was set 
 before us. 
 
 In a former work on China — ‘ A Journey to the 
 Tea Countries ’ — I noticed a curious substance 
 called “ mosquito tobacco,” or “ mosquito physic,” 
 for it is known by both of these names, which I 
 had met with for the first time when travelling in 
 the western parts of the province of Chekiang on 
 my way to the Bohea mountains and the great 
 black-tea country of Woo-e-shan. The day before 
 the discovery was made had been very hot, and 
 during the night such swarms of mosquitoes came 
 that neither my servant nor myself had been 
 allowed to close our eyes. I had no curtains with 
 me, and looked forward with dread to many such 
 sleepless nights during the journey. “ Why don’t 
 you procure some mun-jung-ean ? ” said the boat- 
 
110 
 
 MOSQUITO TOBACCO. 
 
 Chap. VI. 
 
 men to my servant. Delighted to find there was 
 some simple remedy, I sent on shore to the first 
 village we passed, and procured some sticks of 
 this invaluable substance. I found it answer the 
 purpose admirably, and used it every night during 
 the remainder of that journey wherever I hap- 
 pened to sleep, whether in boats, in temples, or in 
 the common inns of the country. 
 
 When I reached England the account which I 
 gave of this substance attracted a good deal of 
 notice from entomologists and others, and I was 
 frequently asked if I had brought any of it home, 
 or if I knew what the ingredients were of which 
 it was composed. I was obliged to plead negli- 
 gence in not having done the former and igno- 
 rance as regards the latter. However much the 
 substance delighted me at first, its constant use, 
 its cheapness, and being an article extremely 
 common, led me, I suppose, to neglect it, as we 
 often do common things. This is the only expla- 
 nation I can give for my neglect, which, when I 
 came to consider the matter at home, surprised me 
 probably more than those who had made inquiries 
 regarding it. My ignorance of the ingredients 
 which composed it will not excite so much surprise 
 in the minds of those acquainted with the cha- 
 racter of the Chinese. 
 
 Having occasion to visit the island of Chusan in 
 the end of August, in order to make some arrange- 
 ments about grafted Yang-mae trees, I found a 
 quantity of this mosquito tobacco in a joss-stick 
 
Chap. VI. 
 
 MOSQUITO TOBACCO. 
 
 Ill 
 
 maker’s shop in the city of Ting-hae. On taking 
 it home with me to the house in which I was 
 located, I lost no time in trying its effect upon 
 the mosquitoes, which were numerous at this hot 
 season of the year. On its being lighted the 
 fumes rose slowly upwards, and the air was soon 
 filled with odours which were not at all disagree- 
 able, not more so than the joss-stick or incense 
 which is burned in every Chinaman’s house who 
 can afford the luxury, and in all the temples. It 
 appeared, however, to be no luxury to the mos- 
 quito, for, in two or three minutes after it was 
 ignited, not a buzz was heard nor a mosquito to be 
 seen. 
 
 My next object was to endeavour to find out 
 the ingredients which were used in the manu- 
 facture of this curious substance. For this pur- 
 pose I paid another visit to the shop in which 
 I had bought it. In one part of the premises 
 the people were employed in beating up the 
 various articles used in the manufacture of in- 
 cense, and in another part others were busy 
 making the joss-stick. The head of the establish- 
 ment paid his respects to me very politely, and 
 asked me whether I had found the mosquito 
 tobacco answer the purpose. I replied that no- 
 thing could have done better, and then commenced 
 to ask him some questions regarding the ingre- 
 dients used, their proportions, and the mode of 
 manufacture. At first he was very communicative. 
 He informed me the following articles were used : 
 
112 
 
 MOSQUITO TOBACCO. 
 
 Chap. VI. 
 
 namely, the sawings of juniper or pine trees (pih 
 heang fun, or sung shoo), artemisia-leaves reduced 
 to powder (nai-hai), tobacco-leaves (ean fun), a 
 small portion of arsenic (pe-za), and a mineral 
 called nu wang. 
 
 With regard to the proportions of each, it 
 appeared that, to thirty pounds of the pine or 
 juniper sawings, about twenty of artemisia, five of 
 tobacco, and a small quantity of arsenic were 
 added. But ere we had come to this point my 
 informant’s jealousy had been aroused, and his 
 statements were evidently not much to be depended 
 upon. He now began to question me in return for 
 the answers he had given — “ What did I want this 
 information for ? if I wanted to buy the article, he 
 had it for sale, and it was cheap enough.” To 
 make matters worse, he then coolly told me he was 
 not quite certain that the information he had given 
 me was correct, as he did not understand the pro- 
 cess himself, but engaged men to make it for him, 
 which individuals came from the interior. 
 
 Nothing further could be gained from my jealous 
 acquaintance at this time, but I was determined 
 not to let the matter rest here, but rather en- 
 deavour to gain the end I had in view by other 
 means. At this time I had a very sharp and 
 intelligent artist — a native of Chusan — employed 
 in making drawings of coniferous trees for Miss 
 Boulton, of Hasely Court, Oxfordshire. He had 
 been travelling with me all over the country, and 
 had now come over to Chusan in order to make 
 
Chap. VI. 
 
 MOSQUITO TOBACCO. 
 
 113 
 
 some drawings on the island, and also to pay a 
 visit to his father, who combined the professions of 
 artist and doctor in his own person. Both father 
 and son were now set to work in order to get 
 the information required. They were told not to 
 lmrry themselves or appear very anxious about it, 
 but to take care as to the correctness of anything 
 they might learn on the subject. In two months 
 I received the result of their investigations, which 
 coincided very closely with my own. Pine and 
 juniper sawings, wormwood-leaves, and tobacco- 
 leaves, reduced to powder, a small portion of nu- 
 wang and arsenic. Each article was well beaten 
 up with water, then the whole mixed together, and 
 in the form of a thick paste rolled on a slip of 
 bamboo. On exposure to the air the substance 
 dried quickly, and was then put away for sale. 
 When finished the sticks are somewhat like the 
 common joss-stick of the country, or about the 
 thickness and length of a light walking-cane. 
 
 Another substance, much cheaper than the last, 
 is found in every town and village in the central 
 and eastern provinces of the empire where I have 
 been, and no doubt it is in use over the greater 
 part of China. Long, narrow bags of paper — say 
 half an inch in diameter and two feet long — are 
 filled with the following substances, namely, the 
 sawings of pine or juniper, mixed with a small por- 
 tion of nu-wang and arsenic. The proportions are 
 thirty pounds of sawings, two ounces of nu-wang, 
 and one ounce of arsenic. This mixture is not 
 
114 
 
 MOSQUITO TOBACCO. 
 
 Chap. VI. 
 
 made up in the form of a paste like the latter, but 
 simply well mixed, and then run into the bags in 
 a dry state. Each bag being filled is closed at the 
 mouth, and then coiled up like a rope and fastened 
 in this position with a bit of thread. Many hun- 
 dreds of these coils, neatly done up and placed one 
 above another, may be seen exposed for sale in the 
 shops during the hot season, when mosquitoes are 
 numerous. When about to be used, the thread 
 which keeps the coil together is cut, then the coil 
 is slightly loosened, so that its sides do not touch 
 each other, for if this happened it would ignite at 
 various parts and soon be consumed. The outer 
 end is then lighted, and the whole is laid carefully 
 down upon a bit of board, when it goes on burning 
 for the greater part of the night. One hundred of 
 these little coils may be bought for a sum equivalent 
 to threepence of our money, and two of them will 
 suffice for a night in an ordinary-sized room. 
 
 A third substance, cheaper than either of the 
 above, is made of a species of artemisia or worm- 
 wood (A. indica ) which grows wild on every hill 
 in this part of China. It is the same kind I have 
 already noticed as forming one of the ingredients 
 in the genuine mosquito tobacco, and is that which 
 was used in taking the honey from the bees in the 
 temple of Tein-tung. It is gathered and thoroughly 
 dried, then twisted or plaited into ropes, in which 
 condition it is fit for use. Although cheaper, and 
 consequently more in use amongst the poorer 
 classes, than the other kinds, it is not so efficient, 
 
Chap. VI. 
 
 MOSQUITO TOBACCO. 
 
 115 
 
 and it gives out more smoke than is agreeable to a 
 European. 
 
 I may be questioned whether the small quantity 
 of arsenic used in making the mosquito tobacco is 
 entirely harmless. I am not sufficiently acquainted 
 with the chemical action which goes on during 
 combustion to answer this in the negative. But 
 it must be borne in mind that the quantity of this 
 poisonous mineral is exceedingly small ; and the 
 fact that mosquito tobacco is used by probably one 
 hundred millions of human beings would seem to 
 prove that it could not have any bad effect upon 
 their health. 
 
 K 
 
116 
 
 DIFFICULTY IN PROCURING 
 
 Chap. VIT. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Difficulty in procuring black-tea manufacturers — Return to Shanghae 
 — City taken by a band of rebels — Chief magistrate murdered — 
 Strange prejudices of foreign residents — Their professions of 
 neutrality — Chinese warfare — Dr. Lockhart’s hospital and patients 
 — Value of medical missions — Public opinion changes — Shanghae 
 evacuated by the rebels — Entered by the Imperialists — Cruelty 
 of soldiers — Effects of the rebellion on the face of the country. 
 
 The arrangements I had been making during the 
 summer months with farmers and tea-cultivators 
 for supplies of plants and seeds in the autumn, 
 were brought to a successful termination in the 
 end of August. But as tea-seed does not ripen in 
 China until October or November, I had two 
 months before me to attend to another and equally 
 important part of my duties. This was to procure 
 and forward to India some first-rate black-tea 
 manufacturers — a task which I found much more 
 difficult than that of selecting and exporting seeds 
 and plants. The Chinese are supposed to be an 
 erratic race, and are found almost populating such 
 places as the straits of Malacca, Java, and Manilla. 
 Of late years shiploads of coolies have been sent 
 to the W est Indies, while thousands have emigrated 
 to the gold-fields of California and Australia. 
 But nearly all these are natives of the province of 
 Canton, and the southern part of Fokien, and 
 
Chap. VII. 
 
 BLACK-TEA MANUFACTURERS. 
 
 117 
 
 moreover are men who have either been brought 
 up in seaport towns, or only a short distance 
 inland. Had such men suited my purpose, I could 
 easily have procured them in any number. But 
 unfortunately the best black-tea districts of China 
 are far inland ; the natives of such districts are 
 simple countrymen who have never seen the sea in 
 the course of their lives, and who have a very 
 indistinct idea of countries which lie beyond it. 
 And besides, such men as I wanted were able 
 to earn good wages at home, and consequently less 
 inclined to push their fortunes abroad. Although 
 it would, therefore, have been the - simplest thing 
 possible to procure Chinamen , it was a very different 
 matter to get hold of good tea-manufacturers. 
 
 There were two ways of accomplishing the 
 object in view, either by going to the homes of 
 such men myself, or by getting them through 
 respectable Chinese at one of the northern ports. 
 The first of these methods was not very likely to 
 succeed ; it is not probable that a stranger and a 
 foreigner could induce such men to leave their 
 homes, however liberal the offers he might make 
 them might be. They could, or at least they 
 would, have had no confidence in the fulfilment of 
 such promises. I had, therefore, adopted the 
 second mode of gaining the desired end, and now 
 determined to return to Shanghae for a few days 
 in order to see what progress had been made in 
 the matter by the Chinese who had promised me 
 their assistance. 
 
 k 2 
 
118 
 
 RETURN TO SHANGHAE. 
 
 Chap. VII. 
 
 On returning to Shanghae I found no progress 
 whatever had been made, and indeed men’s minds 
 were so full of the rebellion raging in the country 
 at the time that little else could have been expected. 
 In the end of August and beginning of September 
 rumours were current that the Fokien and Canton 
 men, who are rather numerous at this port, were 
 about to rise and hoist the standard of the new 
 Emperor, T’hae-ping-wang, in this ancient city. 
 The authorities, who had long felt their weakness, 
 issued proclamations denouncing a man named Le, 
 who, with some forty others, was taken up and 
 detained for some hours at the office of the magis- 
 trate. The official, however, did not dare to 
 punish these persons : indeed, he was coolly in- 
 formed that if ho did so his own head would pay 
 the penalty. This threat had the desired effect : 
 Le and his companions were set at liberty, and it 
 is needless to say grew bolder and more unruly 
 than ever they had been before. As a further 
 step to preserve the peace of the city, a body 
 of lawless men belonging to a secret society, who 
 could not be controlled, were taken into the pay of 
 the Government. This was a last resource, and 
 placed the Government upon a mine which could 
 be sprung at any moment for its destruction. 
 
 The morning of the 7th of September, being the 
 day on which the mandarins usually pay their visit 
 to sacrifice in the temple of Confucius, was chosen 
 by the rebels for the attack upon the city. With- 
 out knowing anything about their plans, I hap- 
 
Chap. VII. 
 
 CITY TAKEN BY REBELS. 
 
 119 
 
 pened to pay a visit to the city soon after daybreak. 
 On entering at the north gate I observed a number 
 of men looking earnestly at some object in the 
 guard-house, and saw at a glance that something 
 of an unusual nature had taken place. Ascending 
 the steps of the guard-room with the Chinese, 
 I was horrorstruck at finding the mats and pillows 
 belonging to the guard saturated with human 
 blood. Upon inquiry, I found that a band of men, 
 believed to be composed chiefly of the members of 
 the secret society already noticed, and called the 
 “ Small Sword Society,” had entered the city and 
 were then on their way to the houses of the chief 
 mandarins, namely, the Taoutae and Che-heen. 
 They had met with some feeble resistance from 
 the guard, whom they soon overpowered and made 
 themselves masters of the gate. 
 
 When the rebels reached the centre of the city, 
 they divided themselves into two divisions, — one 
 of which marched to the Che-heen’s office, and the 
 other to the Taoutae’s. The guard at the Che- 
 heen’s, consisting of about forty men, fled without 
 making the slightest resistance, and are supposed 
 to have been in league with the rebels. Some 
 one ran to inform the magistrate that his house 
 was attacked, and the old man came out and 
 endeavoured to pacify the rebel mob with a few 
 fair words and promises for the future. He was 
 told, however, that such promises were now too 
 late, upbraided for his former conduct, and bar- 
 barously murdered on the spot. 
 
120 
 
 THE TAOUTAE. 
 
 Chap. VII. 
 
 The division which marched to the Taoutae’s 
 was equally successful, and met with no resistance. 
 Report says this officer — who was the highest in 
 Shanghae — behaved very bravely on this trying 
 occasion. Having been informed of the intended 
 attack a minute or two before it took place, he 
 dressed himself in his official robes and came out 
 to meet the rebels. Most of his attendants had 
 fled, and, seeing that the few men who remained 
 true were a very unequal match for the rebels, he 
 prevented them from offering any resistance. “ If 
 you want my life,” said he, “you have the power 
 to take it, — see, I am unarmed and defenceless.” 
 The rebel chief replied that they did not want his 
 life, but that he must forthwith hand over the 
 official seals, and take an oath not to molest those 
 who were now the masters of the city. He imme- 
 diately gave up the seals, and retired to his own 
 apartment, where he was allowed to remain unmo- 
 lested while the other parts of the buildings were 
 plundered and gutted. 
 
 In the afternoon I paid another visit to the city 
 with the Rev. Mr. Edkins, of the London Mis- 
 sionary Society. On arriving at the north gate 
 we found a strong guard stationed there, who, 
 after some little persuasion, allowed us to pass in. 
 From the appearances which presented themselves 
 at every turning, it was evident the rebels had 
 made a good use of their time. Not only were 
 all the gates strongly guarded, but patrols of two 
 men each were marching through the city in all 
 
Chap. VII. PILLAGE OF THE CHE-HEEN’S HOUSE. 121 
 
 directions and preserving order. These guards 
 had strict orders to preserve the property of the 
 inhabitants from thieves of all kinds, and to 
 punish in a summary manner all who might be 
 caught stealing. Two men who were taken in 
 the act were immediately put to death without 
 judge or jury or trial of any kind. The order 
 which prevailed in all quarters, considering the 
 lawless bands who were in possession of the city, 
 was very remarkable. 
 
 Threading our way through the narrow streets, 
 in the direction of the public offices, which had 
 been the scene of such disturbances in the morn- 
 ing, we were everywhere treated with marked 
 respect both by the inhabitants and by the various 
 patrols. When we reached the house of the Clie- 
 heen a strange scene was presented to our view. 
 Hundreds of people were busily engaged in ran- 
 sacking the premises and carrying off everything 
 which could be taken away. The furniture of the 
 various rooms and all moveable articles had gone 
 first, and the crowd were now busily employed in 
 taking down the windows, doors, all kinds of 
 framework, wooden pillars, and indeed everything 
 which could be converted into use. This crowd 
 was not what in England we would call a mob, 
 but a set of respectable, orderly plunderers, — or 
 perhaps Inters would be a better word, — whose 
 proceedings were sanctioned by the victorious 
 rebels now in possession of the city. However 
 particular the latter seemed with reference to the 
 
122 
 
 THE MUEDEEED CHE-HEEN. 
 
 Chap. VII. 
 
 preservation of private property, that of tlie man- 
 darins and Government seemed to be given over 
 to the people for plunder as a matter of course. 
 When we reached the upper end of the collection 
 of buildings which formed the official residence of 
 the Che-heen, we observed a crowd of people, who 
 seemed to he lookers-on like ourselves, moving to 
 some apartments on one side of the central hall. 
 Following in their steps, we came to a court, or 
 small Chinese garden, containing a few orna- 
 mental plants in pots and a pretty arbour covered 
 with the Glycine sinensis. In a small room, now 
 in ruins, at the upper end of the court, a crowd of 
 people were observed gazing intently at some 
 object on the floor, and from the expression on 
 every countenance we readily conjectured that 
 this must be the body of the Che-heen, who had 
 been murdered in the morning, and which we 
 were now desirous of seeing. As we approached 
 the spot, the crowd readily made way, when a 
 melancholy and shocking sight was presented to 
 our view. On a mat, in the middle of the room, 
 lay the body of the murdered magistrate, covered 
 with the wounds which had been inflicted by 
 his ruthless countrymen. It was a sickening 
 sight, so we turned away and made our way out 
 through the busy crowd, who were still employed 
 in what appeared to be considered a kind of legal 
 plunder. 
 
 Leaving the offices of the magistrate, we now 
 proceeded to the residence of the Taoutae, or 
 
Chap. VII. 
 
 THE REBELS’ HEAD-QUARTERS. 
 
 123 
 
 highest civil officer in the city. Here a scene of 
 a different kind, but scarcely less curious, was 
 presented to us. This place had been made the 
 head-quarters of the rebels, and we found the 
 doors strictly guarded by their men. The guards 
 allowed us to pass without question ; and, walking 
 up a straight path to the furthest end of the 
 buildings, we found a large hall filled with armed 
 men, engaged in arranging some matters con- 
 nected with their food and wages. A more black- 
 guard or unruly looking collection of human 
 beings I had never before seen. Some were 
 armed with short swords, others with muskets or 
 pistols, and a number with rusty-looking spears of 
 all forms and sizes. Here and there we observed 
 some busily engagd in grinding their swords, and 
 every now and then feeling their edges like a 
 butcher about to slay an animal for his stall. 
 The greater number were taking part in a hot 
 discussion which was then going on with their 
 leaders, all talking at the same time, and, appa- 
 rently, in the greatest disorder ; but, as this is 
 Chinese custom, it gave us but little surprise or 
 concern. The uniform worn by this motley band 
 was most varied in its character ; but each man 
 wore a distinguishing badge of some kind, either 
 round his head, or as a sash round his body, or 
 on his breast. The Fokien bands had generally 
 a red band tied round the head ; while the Canton 
 men had a white one, said to be a badge of mourn- 
 ing for the Ming dynasty — their ancient kings. 
 
124 
 
 THE CUSTOM-HOUSE PILLAGED. Chap. YII. 
 
 Having seen quite enough of these unruly spirits, 
 we left their halls, and walked quietly homewards 
 through the streets of the city. Every place was 
 perfectly quiet : — some of the shops were open, 
 and the people generally seemed to be looking on 
 with Chinese indifference. 
 
 In the new foreign town measures were taken 
 by the English and American residents for their 
 own protection. On the morning after the oc- 
 currences had taken place which I have just 
 been narrating, the pretty Chinese Custom-house, 
 which is so great an ornament to the foreign 
 town, and which had been evacuated by the 
 authorities, was completely gutted by the Chinese, 
 and no one interfered to prevent them. It was 
 attacked by no mob of lawless vagabonds, but 
 by the sober and industrious people in the neigh- 
 bourhood, who seemed to consider its contents a 
 kind of lute to which they were justly entitled. 
 Every one agreed, when too late, that it was a 
 pity to allow such a proceeding within our own 
 boundary,— more particularly when a single con- 
 sulate official, or a single sailor from one of the 
 men-of-war in port, could have prevented it, with- 
 out any force being necessary further than to 
 stand at the door and warn the people off. 
 
 The description which I have thus attempted to 
 give of the taking of Shanghae by this rebel band 
 will throw some light upon the character of the 
 Chinese,— but it is difficult to give to civilised 
 nations in the West a correct idea of this extra- 
 
Chap. VII. 
 
 INTENTIONS OF THE REBELS. 
 
 125 
 
 ordinary people. Will it be credited that a city 
 containing upwards of 200,000 inhabitants — 
 walled and fortified, and, to a certain extent, 
 prepared for an attack — allowed itself to be taken 
 by a band of marauders scarcely numbering 500 
 men, badly armed, undisciplined, and bent on 
 plunder ? And yet such is the fact, for, however 
 strict the rebels appeared to be in their endea- 
 vours to preserve private property, they were 
 robbing the Government and “squeezing” some 
 of the more wealthy among the inhabitants. It 
 seemed to be generally acknowledged that they 
 had, as yet, no connexion with the Kwang-si 
 rebels, although they expected to have shortly. 
 It was, no doubt, the intention of many of them 
 to “ feather their own nests ” pretty well in the 
 first place, and then hand over the conquered 
 city to any one who chose to take it off their 
 hands. In the mean time the poor people suf- 
 fered, — trade, both foreign and native, was para- 
 lyzed, — and one trembled for the fearful calamities 
 which now hung over this unhappy country. 
 
 For this state of things in Sliangliae the foreign 
 residents have been greatly to blame, inasmuch as 
 they not only did not endeavour to prevent them, 
 but actually encouraged the attack. I do not 
 mean that they ought to have taken to arms and 
 fought on the side of the Imperialists, but the 
 moral force in their hands was very great ; and 
 had it been generally known that foreigners were 
 opposed to any attack upon Shanghae, it is more 
 
126 PREJUDICES OF FOREIGN RESIDENTS. Chap. YII. 
 
 than probable such an attack would never have 
 been attempted. But a course very different from 
 this was pursued. The sympathies of foreigners 
 generally were all enlisted on the side of the 
 rebels and against the government of the country. 
 It was no secret that we as a body, instead of 
 opposing an attack upon the city, would hail it 
 with pleasure, and wish it success, although we 
 would otherwise remain neutral. Civil and naval 
 officers, missionaries, merchants, and shopkeepers, 
 all — with a few honourable exceptions — were in 
 favour of the debauched band of robbers who took 
 the city of Shanghae on the 7th of September. 
 The unprejudiced observer of these events had 
 now to witness a most extraordinary and anoma- 
 lous proceeding, namely, that of our men-of-war 
 gallantly putting down the hordes of pirates 
 which were infesting the coast, while the land 
 pirates, such as those who took the city of Shang- 
 hae, were encouraged and applauded. And why ? 
 Because the latter spent their days and nights in 
 smoking opium, in drunkenness, and in all kinds 
 of debauchery, and gave out they were followers 
 of Tai-ping-wang, or, as he was called, the Chris- 
 tian King ! 
 
 It would be too sweeping an assertion to place 
 the whole of these men in the same class. Some 
 perhaps were patriots anxious for the good of their 
 country, but I am afraid these characters were 
 comparatively rare. And yet the good ones were 
 probably amongst those who held out to the last, 
 
Chap. VII. 
 
 CHARACTER OF THE REBELS. 
 
 127 
 
 and who suffered the greatest obloquy when “ pub- 
 lic opinion” changed. 
 
 Public opinion, when by this is understood the 
 intelligence of a people, is generally correct ; and 
 it is difficult to account for the errors of the Shang- 
 hae community, more particularly when it is consi- 
 dered that it consists of men of education and sound 
 common sense. The supposed Christian character 
 of the Kwang-si rebels had no doubt a tendency to 
 interest and captivate, and perhaps the corrupt 
 nature of the present government of the empire 
 might make many wish for a change. But what- 
 ever the main body of the rebels at Nanking 
 might be — and the visits of foreigners to that 
 camp had been too few and brief in duration to 
 enable them to form a correct estimate of their 
 politics and religion — there surely could be no 
 doubt as to the character of those who claimed 
 connexion with them in Shanghae. And add to 
 this, that there was but one opinion regarding 
 them shared by all respectable Chinese in this 
 part of the country — and that was that they were 
 nothing more than thieves and robbers — and one 
 wonders still the more. 
 
 For more than a year this band held possession 
 of the ancient city of Shanghae. A large force 
 was sent against them by the government, and 
 encamped at various points round the city-walls, 
 and at a safe distance from the ramparts. The 
 object of the Imperialists appeared to be not so 
 much to drive them out by hard fighting as by 
 
128 
 
 PRETENCE OF NEUTRALITY. 
 
 Chap. VII. 
 
 gradually cutting off their supplies to starve them 
 into capitulation. Here again their plans were to 
 a certain extent frustrated by neutral foreigners. 
 The foreign settlement, as it is called, occupies a 
 large tract of ground situated on the north-east side 
 of the city just outside the walls, and is bounded on 
 the east by the Shanghae river. Notwithstanding 
 the complaints and remonstrances of the govern- 
 ment of the country, many persons were unscrupu- 
 lous enough to keep supplying the insurgents with 
 arms and ammunition of all kinds in large quan- 
 tities, for which they were liberally paid with the 
 spoils stolen from the public treasury or wrung 
 from the inhabitants. Some were in the habit of 
 making large sums of money by running cargoes 
 of gunpowder, carrying it into the city, advising 
 and counselling the rebels, and then when danger 
 approached sneaking back to the foreign settle- 
 ment for the protection which the flags of England 
 or America afforded them. Nor was this conduct 
 effectually checked by either of these governments 
 for a considerable length of time, although they 
 had full power to have done so. And this is what 
 we call being neutral ! 
 
 The battles or skirmishes which took place 
 every few days betwixt the besiegers and besieged 
 during the time the city was in the hands of the 
 rebels were most amusing performances. 
 
 During the time of the siege Dr. Lockhart’s 
 Chinese hospital was crowded with patients. Some 
 came to have limbs amputated, others to have balls 
 
Chap. VII. 
 
 DR. LOCKHART’S PATIENTS. 
 
 129 
 
 extracted, and others again to have their wounds 
 dressed. All were attended to in the kindest 
 manner “ without money and without price.” It 
 did not signify to the Christian missionary whether 
 the person carried to his door for medical aid was 
 an imperialist or a rebel ; it was enough that he 
 was a hmnan being suffering pain and desiring to 
 be relieved. And hence the wounded of both 
 parties met in the same hospital, and each had his 
 wounds attended to by the same friendly hand. 
 
 In his report for 1854 Dr. Lockhart relates the 
 following circumstance : — “ One Sunday afternoon 
 two wounded persons were brought in ; one was a 
 Canton man, an artilleryman at the battery on the 
 eastern side of the river, or Poo-tung ; he had 
 fired his gun once, and was reloading it when the 
 charge exploded and so severely injured his arm 
 that it had to be amputated below the elbow, and he 
 did well. The first shot that he fired had crossed 
 the river, and struck a woman near the city-wall on 
 the leg, destroying all the soft part from one side 
 of the limb. These two patients met at the hos- 
 pital about an hour afterwards.” He then tells 
 us A man was brought in one morning whom 
 a rebel had caught, supposing him to be an impe- 
 rial soldier, and tried to behead (!), but owing to 
 the man’s struggles he was unable to effect this, 
 though he inflicted most severe injuries upon him.” 
 Then a beggar is brought in who had been struck 
 on the leg by a cannon-ball ; his wound is dressed, 
 he is lodged and fed and sent away cured. An 
 
130 
 
 VALUE OF MEDICAL MISSIONS. Chap. VII. 
 
 old fisherman was dropping liis anchor at the 
 mouth of the river on a windy day, when his 
 hand got entangled in the cable, so that it was 
 almost twisted off. The thumb was found to be 
 much mangled, the back of the hand was almost 
 destroyed, and the metacarpal bones fractured, so 
 that the fingers and palm were all that were left. 
 The result of skilful treatment is that the hand 
 “ is now almost well, though the man will not 
 have much motion in his fingers.” 
 
 Such are the labours of the medical missionaries ; 
 skilful, unwearied, and free to all as their native 
 air, or their refreshing streams. The soldier, the 
 sailor, merchant, mechanic, farmer, and labourer, 
 high and low, rich and poor, have the benefits of 
 the hospital freely offered to them. In 1853 no 
 fewer than 11,028 patients had been operated 
 upon, or treated in some way, while in 1854 the 
 number amounted to 12,181. 
 
 But the Medical Missionary Society have objects 
 which are even of a higher nature than “ healing 
 the sick and curing all manner of diseases.” When 
 the patients assemble for medical treatment in the 
 hall of the hospital they have the Gospel preached 
 to them by one of the members of the London 
 Mission. Private religious instruction is also given 
 to patients in the different wards. And thus, 
 while the heart of the cold and unfeeling Chinese 
 is softened and opened up by kindness — which he 
 feels to be disinterested, and which acts like spring 
 showers upon plants — the seeds of the Gospel of 
 
Chap. VII. 
 
 TREATMENT OF PRISONERS. 
 
 131 
 
 Christ are sown upon it, and, it is hoped, in many, 
 very many instances, they may vegetate and pro- 
 duce their fruits in after years when the patients 
 have returned to their homes. 
 
 The charitable labours of the medical missionary 
 are not confined to the hosjfital within the bounds 
 of the foreign settlement. He has also a dispen- 
 sary in the midst of the crowded city, which he 
 visits on stated days and attends to outdoor pa- 
 tients, many of whom may not be able to come as 
 far as the hospital. Indeed, wherever his labours 
 are required he is to be found ministering to the 
 wants of the sick, and doing all he can to alleviate 
 pain. The following extract from one of Dr. 
 Lockhart’s reports will show that the jails are also 
 visited, and give a good illustration of the cold- 
 blooded cruelty of the Chinese government : — 
 
 “ In the beginning of the summer, attention was 
 called by some of the natives in the city to the 
 fact that there were a number of men who had 
 been severely wounded in the Che-heen’s (or ma- 
 gistrate’s) jail ; a visit was immediately paid to 
 the place, when it was ascertained that, in a yard 
 which was one of the departments of the inner 
 prison, about fifty pirates, all Canton and Fokien 
 men, had been confined ; but that on the morning 
 of the day when it was visited they had tried to 
 break out of prison and were very riotous, on 
 account of some additional hardship that the 
 officers intended to inflict on them, and also be- 
 cause some of the party were to be separated from 
 
 L 
 
132 
 
 SCENES IN A PRISON. 
 
 Chap. VII. 
 
 the rest. The soldiers of the garrison had been 
 called out, who fired several rounds of musketry 
 into the yard and the prisoners’ cells, till the 
 rioters were rendered quiet, or at least disabled ; 
 when the soldiers rushed in and beat them with 
 wooden poles for some time. After this the whole 
 of the prisoners were loaded with extra manacles, 
 and those who had not been severely wounded 
 were forthwith submitted to the bastinado till they 
 could hardly walk. 
 
 “ The scene presented in the yard, and the cells 
 around it, was one of perhaps common occurrence 
 in Chinese prisons, but, it is to be hoped, not often 
 seen elsewhere. Four men were killed, and lay at 
 the door in a heap, just as they had been thrown 
 down ; one man had compound fracture of the 
 thigh ; three had compound fracture of the tibia, 
 the result of gun-shot ; others had fractures of the 
 leg and arm. On inquiring from these what had 
 caused their injuries, they said they were occa- 
 sioned by blows from the poles with which they 
 were attacked by the soldiers after the firing had 
 ceased ; several had received severe sword-cuts, and 
 others had bullet-wounds in various parts of the 
 body and limbs. About twenty were wounded 
 in the affray ; the remainder had the skin of their 
 backs, thighs, and legs beaten off by the bastinado ; 
 and the moans and cries that proceeded from all 
 parts of the yard were heartrending. The men that 
 had the compound fractures had not only chains 
 on their hands, and bars of wood chained to their 
 
Chap. VII. 
 
 CRUELTY OF JAILORS. 
 
 133 
 
 feet, but also on one knee a band or oval hoop of 
 iron, placed over tbe knee, while the leg was 
 flexed on the thigh, and to confine this in its 
 place a rod of iron was thrust through the middle 
 of the hoop at the ham and locked, so that it could 
 not be removed ; the knee was thus kept forcibly 
 bent, causing much agony to the wretched pri- 
 soners. 
 
 “ It was then late in the afternoon, and almost 
 dark ; all that could be done, however, was effected 
 as speedily as possible ; bullets cut out, wounds 
 dressed, fractured limbs bound up and put in posi- 
 tion, as far as time and circumstances would allow ; 
 and the next day, bandages, splints, ointment, 
 and whatever else was wanted, were taken and 
 applied to the sufferers. Attempts were made, by 
 application to the officers, to induce them to take 
 off the hoops and chains from the fractured limbs, 
 but the application was refused ; and at a later 
 period, when the request was more urgently 
 pressed, the officers said that they would not do it, 
 and that they hoped the men would all die, and 
 the sooner the better ; also that they wished no 
 help or relief to be afforded to them. 
 
 “ However, the pirates themselves were very 
 thankful for the relief they experienced, and they 
 assisted and nursed one another very kindly. The 
 way in which orders were given, and relief admi- 
 nistered, in the cells, was a curious process ; one 
 of the occupants was an intelligent young man, 
 and spoke English very well ; he had been beaten 
 
 l 2 
 
134 
 
 DIFFICULTIES AND PROSPECTS Chap. VII. 
 
 on the thighs, and had logs of wood chained to his 
 legs, so that he could not walk ; this man was put 
 on the back of another, who had chains only on 
 his hands, and was thus carried about from cell to 
 cell to receive instructions, and give directions as 
 to what was to be done in the intervals of the 
 visits. The bodies of the four dead men remained 
 in an outer cell for more than a week, hut a mass 
 of ice was thrown upon them to keep them from 
 putrefaction to some extent, until the affair had 
 been examined into, and reported to the superior 
 officers. One or two more died, and in process 
 of time the rest recovered of their wounds, after 
 rather a large consumption of plasters and bandages. 
 When the city was afterwards taken by the Triads, 
 the young man above alluded to was found to 
 be in command of a detachment of men, and in 
 charge of the Little East gate ; and being dressed 
 up in velvet and satin, presented a very different 
 appearance from what he had done when loaded 
 with chains and covered with rags in the prison.” 
 
 The Chinese as a people are cold and indif- 
 ferent to religion of any kind : humanly speaking, 
 nothing less than a miracle will convert them to 
 Christianity. Missionaries have been in China for 
 many years ; larger numbers have been sent out 
 from England and America since the last war, 
 when the country was partially opened up to 
 foreigners. These men have been labouring there, 
 I believe, in most instances, most conscientiously, 
 and with an ardour and single-mindedness of pur- 
 
Chap. YII. 
 
 OF MISSIONARIES IN CHINA. 
 
 135 
 
 pose which is worthy of all praise, and yet what 
 is the result ? How few have “ believed their 
 report ” ! The Chinese as a nation are jealous, 
 selfish, and eminently conceited ; it is therefore 
 difficult to convince such minds that nations many 
 thousand miles distant will subscribe large sums 
 of money merely for their religious benefit, or that 
 men are to he found who will leave friends and 
 home with no other views than to convert them 
 from heathenism to Christianity. And hence it 
 would seem that the labours of the medical mis- 
 sionary societies would prove a powerful auxiliary 
 in aiding the spread of the Gospel amongst such 
 a people. All nations, even the most cold and 
 selfish, have some kindly feelings in their nature 
 capable of being aroused and acted upon. If any- 
 thing will warm such feelings in the minds of the 
 Chinese, the labour of the medical missionary is 
 well calculated to do so. The blind receive their 
 sight, the lame are enabled to walk, and the 
 wounded are cured. And when the better feelings 
 of the man are thus expanded into something like 
 gratitude, his prejudices are more likely to give 
 way, and thus his mind may become softened and 
 more apt to receive religious impressions. 
 
 Having been led to make these remarks upon 
 the value of medical missions, I will now return 
 to the Shanghae rebellion. For many months the 
 army of the Imperialists seemed to make no im- 
 pression upon the rebel bands who held the city. 
 Battles, such as has been described, were fought 
 
136 
 
 CHANGE IN PUBLIC OPINION. 
 
 Chap. VII. 
 
 every few days, the success, such as it was, being 
 sometimes on the one side and sometimes on the 
 other. Mines were dug and sprung, breaches were 
 made in the walls and as quickly repaired, and it 
 seemed as if the siege was likely to last for an in- 
 definite period of time. But public opinion began to 
 waver, and then changed altogether ; it was found 
 out at last that the bands who had taken and held 
 possession of the city were not patriots fighting 
 for their country’s good, but merely a set of land- 
 pirates, whose brethren we had been taking means 
 to destroy on the high seas. The commanders of 
 the French ships of war in the port, who had 
 never viewed them with a friendly eye, and who 
 had had some disputes with them on various occa- 
 sions, now took a decided part against them and 
 in favour of the Imperialists. A breach was made 
 in the city wall and the rebels attacked in their 
 stronghold, which they defended with much skill, 
 and eventually forced the French to retreat after 
 having lost some of the best and bravest of their 
 officers. 
 
 But this trifling success was unavailing. The 
 imperial government, having frequently remon- 
 strated with the foreign consuls against their settle- 
 ment being used as a communication with the city, 
 was at length listened to, and allowed to build a 
 high wall in order that this connexion might be 
 cut off. The insurgents thus hemmed in on all 
 sides and likely to be eventually starved, bom- 
 barded by the French ships, having to repulse the 
 
Chap. VII. IMPERIALISTS BURN SHANGHAE. 
 
 137 
 
 attacks of the Imperialists, and deserted by nearly 
 all their friends, at length came to the deter- 
 mination to evacuate. 
 
 When the rebels evacuated the city, the brave 
 Imperialists entered it and immediately set it on 
 fire in various places. The evening on which this 
 took place was perfectly calm, and the scene must 
 have been one of the grandest and at the same 
 time one of the most painful ever beheld. The 
 fire was first seen running along the ramparts and 
 destroying tent after tent — these having been oc- 
 cupied only a few hours before by the insurgents. 
 Then the city was observed to have been set fire 
 to in several places, and, owing to the construction 
 of the houses (they are built chiefly with pine and 
 bricks), the fire spread with fearful rapidity. The 
 whole city, about three miles in circumference, 
 appeared to be in flames — guilty and innocent 
 were perishing together, thousands were rendered 
 houseless and driven from their homes, and where 
 to go they knew not. In the midst of all this 
 terror and confusion the imperial soldiers were 
 plundering what had been left by the rebels, which 
 I believe was not very much, and hunting down 
 the unfortunate, in order to cut their heads off 
 and claim the promised reward. Some of the 
 latter, as a last resource, hid themselves in coffins, 
 hoping thus to escape their ruthless pursuers. 
 Many of them were discovered and slain, and then 
 the soldiers used this as a pretence for breaking 
 open the coffins of the dead, in order to get the 
 
138 
 
 EFFECTS OF THE EEBELLION. Chap. VII. 
 
 money or gold and silver ornaments which are 
 often deposited with the bodies after death. Of 
 all that hand of marauders who fled from Shanghae 
 that night, hut few remained either to fight or 
 to steal. The numerous heads which were after- 
 wards seen on poles, and trees, and walls, the 
 fearful stench which poisoned the air for many 
 weeks during the hot weather which followed, told 
 a sickening tale of crime and blood. The bravery 
 displayed by them on many occasions showed 
 plainly of what stuff the Chinese are made, and 
 what as a nation China may yet become, and made 
 one regret it had not been shown in a better 
 cause. 
 
 When I arrived at Shanghae, a few days after 
 the evacuation, I found fully one-third of this 
 ancient city in ruins. The poor inhabitants were 
 wandering about looking out for the spots where 
 their dwellings formerly stood, and in many in- 
 stances marking their boundaries with a few stones 
 or bricks. Most of them seemed completely heart- 
 broken and paralysed, and were taking no steps 
 to rebuild their former homes. The gardens and 
 nurseries in the city and suburbs have necessarily 
 suffered severely. It was quite melancholy to 
 look into many of them. One just outside the 
 north gate, which furnished me with some of my 
 finest plants when I was collecting for the Horti- 
 cultural Society of London, was completely de- 
 stroyed. A fine Glycine sinensis, which formerly 
 covered a large trellis, was now half-buried in 
 
Chap. VII. 
 
 EFFECTS OF THE REBELLION. 
 
 139 
 
 ruins, but still putting forth its long racemes of 
 blue flowers half-covered with the broken tiles 
 and bricks, and told in mournful accents its tale 
 of peaceful times. A noble tree of the carnation- 
 flowered peach, which in former years used to be 
 loaded with rose, white, and striped blossoms, and 
 admired by all who saw it, had been cut down for 
 firewood, and the stump alone remained to tell 
 where it grew. Hundreds of pot-plants were 
 huddled together, broken, and destroyed. The 
 little house where the gardeners used to live was 
 levelled with the ground ; and the old lady, the 
 proprietor whom I had known for some years, 
 and who managed the concern after her husband’s 
 death, was gone — no one knew where. In the 
 city many places were in the same condition. A 
 great portion of the celebrated tea-gardens was 
 destroyed. Here there was one little garden situ- 
 ated in front of a gentleman’s house and sur- 
 rounded with high walls. In addition to nume- 
 rous plants in pots, it contained two pretty speci- 
 mens of Sophora japonica pendula, grafted high, as 
 we see the weeping-ash in England, and present- 
 ing an appearance not unlike it in the distance. 
 The house and high walls were in ruins, and the 
 trees, which had somehow escaped, could now be 
 seen a long way off, budding and becoming green 
 amidst this scene of desolation. The face of the 
 country for some miles from the city walls was 
 also entirely changed. Formerly it had a rich 
 appearance, and was studded all over with clumps 
 
140 
 
 EFFECTS OF THE REBELLION. 
 
 Chap. VII. 
 
 of trees. All had been cut down for firewood 
 for the imperial army. Clumps of Cryptomeria 
 japonica , Juniperus sphcerica, and bamboos had 
 entirely disappeared. The celebrated peach-gar- 
 dens near the south and west gates of the city, 
 which at this time of year (April) used to be 
 one sheet of bloom, had now nothing remaining 
 except the stumps of the trees. What I regretted 
 as much as anything was some noble specimens 
 of Salisburia adiantifolia — the “ Gfing-ko ” of the 
 Japanese. This is apparently indigenous to this 
 part of China, and attains to a very large size ; 
 indeed, it is by far the largest tree in the district. 
 Its fruit, which at first sight has somewhat the 
 appearance of the almond, is much esteemed by 
 the Chinese, and consequently abundant in the 
 markets. 
 
 Such are some of the effects of rebellion in a 
 half-civilised country like China. The picture 
 which I have endeavoured to paint applies, unfor- 
 tunately, to many other parts of the country be- 
 sides Shanghae. Hundreds of towns and villages 
 were in the same state ; their inhabitants had been 
 driven from their homes by fire and sword, the 
 innocent in many instances perished with the 
 guilty, and even women and children were not 
 spared. One party was just as bad as the other, 
 and the “ tender mercies ” of both “ were cruel.” 
 Amongst foreigners residing in this country en- 
 thusiasm had generally given way to common 
 sense, and they had now no hopes of the Christian 
 
Chap. YII. GENERAL CONDITION OF CHINA. 
 
 141 
 
 character of the Canton or Shanghae rebellion ; 
 indeed there has ever been strong proof that 
 thieves or pirates would be a much more appro- 
 priate name to apply to the rebels in these towns 
 than the sacred one of Christian. Let us hope for 
 better things as regards the Nanking insurgents 
 and their leader Tai-ping-wang, when we know 
 them as intimately as we have known their coun- 
 tryman at Shanghae and Canton. 
 
 Although the picture which I have given of 
 some parts of China is a melancholy one, it must 
 not be supposed to represent the general condition 
 of the empire. China is a large country, and those 
 parts disturbed by rebellion bear but a small pro- 
 portion to the remainder, which is perfectly undis- 
 turbed. Indeed, even a mile or two away from 
 a place in the hands of the rebels we find the 
 country quiet and the husbandman engaged in 
 cultivating his land. Thus it is that notwith- 
 standing all these disturbances we have no lack of 
 tea, silk, and the other articles which form the 
 bulk of our exports. 
 
142 
 
 RETURN TO TEA-DISTRICTS. 
 
 Chap. Y1II, 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Return to the tea-districts of Chekiang — Mode of making collections 
 of seeds amongst Chinese peasantry — Messengers sent to Moo-yuen 
 and Ping-shuy — Ping-shuy teas — Agricultural and Horticultural 
 Society of India — Varnish-tree — Wax-insect tree — Soap-tree — 
 Death and funeral of a Buddhist priest — New blue dye — Its cul- 
 tivation and manufacture — “Green indigo” — Its introduction to 
 India and Europe. 
 
 The events recorded in the last chapter spread 
 themselves over more than a year of time, namely, 
 from the autumn of 1853 to the spring of 1855, 
 and their relation, in order to present them in a 
 connected form, has carried me somewhat in 
 advance of my narrative. It is now necessary to 
 go hack to the beginning of October, 1853. Having 
 finished my work in Shanghae, I took my departure 
 for the tea-districts in Chekiang in order to make 
 collections of seeds and plants for the government 
 plantations in the Himalaya. 
 
 When I arrived amongst the tea-hills in that 
 province, I found the seeds of the tea-plant just 
 ripe, and all my old friends busily employed in 
 collecting them in anticipation of my arrival. In 
 my earlier experience with the Chinese things 
 were much more difficult than they were now. 
 Then the country -people used to fly from me 
 whenever I appeared amongst them, and I was 
 
Chap. YIII. MODE OF MAKING COLLECTIONS. 
 
 143 
 
 often obliged to gather the seeds myself, and with 
 my own people. Now we were better acquainted, 
 and my only difficulty was to prevent them from 
 bringing me too many. 
 
 Having established myself in my old quarters in 
 the temple of Tein-tung, I went to work in Chinese 
 style. It was given out by my people and the 
 priests that I had arrived for the purpose of making 
 purchases of tea-seeds, that I wanted five or six 
 hundred catty, and would continue to purchase all 
 that were brought to me, providing they were of 
 good quality, until that quantity was made up. 
 On the day following this announcement, and for 
 many days afterwards, the people began to flock to 
 the temple in great numbers, for the purpose of 
 selling their tea-seeds. The venders were chiefly 
 old men, women, and children — a class who could 
 do light work, such as gathering tea-seeds, although 
 not heavy field-labour. My time was fully occu- 
 pied from daylight until dark in examining, settling 
 the price according to quality, and weighing the 
 seeds. In this labour I was greatly assisted by my 
 good friend the priest to whom I have already 
 alluded, and who, having a small tea-plantation 
 himself, was an excellent judge of the seed. Many 
 were the little disputes we had as to quality and 
 price, which were always carried on with the most 
 perfect good-humour, and generally referred to the 
 priest for arbitration. He was much respected by 
 the natives themselves, and his word was con- 
 sidered as satisfactory and final. It was a pleasing 
 
144 
 
 MOO- YUEN AND PING-SHUY. 
 
 Chap. VIII. 
 
 sight to observe those happy smiles on their coun- 
 tenances when they had sold their little stock and 
 put the strings of cash into their baskets. In a 
 few days I had completed the quantity which 
 I intended to export from this part of the country. 
 
 While making collections in this district I had 
 despatched two of my own people on whom I could 
 depend to the districts of Moo-yuen and Ping-shuy, 
 in order to bring me seeds from those places. Moo- 
 yuen is in the Hwuy-chow country, and is well 
 known for producing the finest green teas exported 
 to Europe and America. Ping-shuy is in the pro- 
 vince of Chekiang, not very far from the old city 
 of Shao-shing-foo, which will be found noticed in 
 my 4 Journey to the Tea Countries.’ The Ping- 
 shuy district is becoming a place of considerable 
 importance — the teas are beautifully made there ; 
 and as it is much nearer to Shanghae than Hwuy- 
 chow, the land-carriage is considerably less in 
 amount. Indeed, the whole of these Chekiang tea- 
 districts have received great advantages from the 
 opening of Shanghae to foreign trade ; their teas 
 have advanced in price, and large quantities of 
 them are made up annually to suit the foreign 
 taste, and sent to that port for sale. 
 
 Both my messengers returned in due time, and 
 had most fully accomplished the objects for which 
 they were sent. But our collections did not con- 
 sist of tea-seeds only. Large quantities of the 
 chesnuts I have alluded to in Chapter III. were 
 procured at this time in the vicinity of Tse-kee ; 
 
Chap. VIII. 
 
 SUCCESS IN COLLECTING. 
 
 145 
 
 seeds of the hemp-palm, valuable on account of the 
 fibre which it yields, and Cryptomeria japonica, 
 
 Rain Cloak. Hemp Palm. 
 
 a fine timber-tree, were obtained in large quantities 
 on the hills near Tein-tung ; and one of my mes- 
 sengers succeeded in bringing me a good supply 
 of the seeds of the funereal cypress from Hwuy- 
 cliow. All these and many other useful and orna- 
 mental trees and shrubs are now flourishing on the 
 slopes of the Himalaya, in the north-west pro- 
 vinces of India. 
 
 Shortly after my arrival in China the council of 
 the Agricultural and Horticultural Society of India 
 applied to the government of Bengal for any 
 assistance I could render them in the way of 
 sending the society seeds and plants of useful and 
 
146 
 
 VARNISH-TREE. 
 
 Chap. VIII. 
 
 ornamental trees and shrubs which were likely 
 to be of value in India. The request of the 
 society was immediately complied with, and I was 
 directed to afford any assistance which might be in 
 my power. My attention was directed by the 
 society to the Chinese varnish-tree,* the wax-insect 
 tree,! the soap-bean tree,J the various trees valuable 
 for their fruit or timber, and ornamental plants ; 
 but above all to the green-indigo (so called), § 
 which yielded a dye which was at that time 
 attracting much attention in France. 
 
 The tree which yields the Chinese varnish is a 
 species of Rhus, which, although producing an 
 article of great value, is extremely dangerous. 
 The varnish is largely used in the country for 
 giving a fine polish to tables and chairs used in 
 the houses of the wealthy. The beautiful lacquer- 
 ware so extensively exported from Canton to 
 foreign countries, and which is so well known and 
 justly admired, is produced by this tree. It has 
 the valuable property of being less liable than 
 French-polish to be injured by a heated vessel 
 which may be placed upon it; but it is very 
 poisonous, and requires to be handled with 
 great care by the workmen who use it. In- 
 deed, after furniture is dry, it is very unsafe 
 for certain constitutions until it has been in use 
 for some time, and the smell entirely gone. A 
 friend of mine, Mr. Jones, American consul at 
 
 * Rhus sp. f Fraxinus sp. % Osesalpinia sp. 
 
 § Rhamnus sp. 
 
Chap. VIII. 
 
 WAX-INSECT TREE. 
 
 147 
 
 Foo-chow-foo, used some furniture which had been 
 lacquered some time and was apparently quite dry, 
 and yet was very ill for a long' time from its 
 effects ; so ill that he thought he should be obliged 
 to leave the country and go home. And this is no 
 solitary instance, for I have known several persons 
 suffer most severely from the same cause. 
 
 The wax-insect tree is no doubt a species of ash 
 (fraxinus). It grows abundantly on the banks of 
 
 Wax Tree. 
 
 ponds and canals in the province of Chekiang ; and 
 a small quantity of wax is also produced in this 
 
 M 
 
148 
 
 TREES INTRODUCED TO INDIA, Chap. VIII. 
 
 province. I was indebted to Dr. McCartee, of 
 Ningpo, for some beautiful specimens of the fresh 
 insect upon the branches of this tree. This insect 
 has been named coccus pela by Mr. Westwood. 
 When fully developed on the trees it has a most 
 remarkable appearance ; they seem as if covered 
 with flakes of snow. The wax is an article of 
 great value in Chinese commerce, and a small por- 
 tion is exported. 
 
 The fleshy pods of the ccesalpinia are largely 
 used as soap in all parts of China, and may be 
 bought in every market-town. 
 
 All these trees and many others have been 
 introduced to India through the Agricultural and 
 Horticultural Society, and some of them distributed 
 largely amongst its members. The green-indigo 
 (so called) has also been discovered and introduced 
 both to England and to India. 
 
 During my sojourn in the old temple of Tein- 
 tung, which I have already said was my head- 
 quarters whilst at work amongst these hills, I wit- 
 nessed some ceremonies connected with the death 
 and funeral of a Buddhist priest who lived next 
 door to where I was located, which appeared so 
 curious and full of interest at the time that I was 
 induced to give a description of it in my journal. 
 
 There are two orders of the priesthood in a large 
 Buddhist monastery. The first and most numerous 
 is that whose members assemble daily in the largest 
 hall or temple, and perform a sort of cathedral 
 service, which I have given a description of in my 
 
('hap. VIII. 
 
 ORDERS OF PRIESTS. 
 
 149 
 
 ‘ Journey to the Tea Countries.’ In a retired spot 
 amongst some lofty trees on the hill-side near 
 Tein-tung the traveller may see an unmeaning- 
 looking brick building some ten feet high and 
 hollow inside. The dome of this building is blacked 
 with smoke, as if it was not unusual to light fires 
 inside. On inquiry he will find that in this 
 place the bodies of the priests just mentioned are 
 burned after death. A little further on, on the 
 same hill-side, there is a neat-looking temple, not 
 different in external appearance from the numerous 
 structures of this description seen all over these 
 hills, hut on going inside several closed white- 
 washed urns are met with, and these contain the 
 ashes of the priests. I never had an opportunity 
 of witnessing the ceremony of burning these 
 bodies ; but my old friend the priest with whom 
 I was staying confessed that the sight was any- 
 thing but pleasing. 
 
 The second order of the priesthood — my landlord 
 was one of them — occupy neat little houses ad- 
 joining the large halls, where they generally seem 
 to lead a lazy kind of life, and have only the 
 private devotions of their little temple to attend to ; 
 that is, they are not required to attend the service 
 in the large hall. Their bodies are not burned 
 after death like the former, but are conveyed to 
 the most lovely spots on the sides of the hills — 
 spots on their own little farms which they had 
 selected for themselves during their lifetime. One 
 of this order died during this autumn when I was 
 
 m 2 
 
150 
 
 DEATH OF A PRIEST. 
 
 Chap. VIII. 
 
 located in the monastery, and the ceremonies con- 
 nected with his wake and funeral I shall now 
 endeavour to describe : — 
 
 A young priest — a mere boy — came running 
 breathless one morning into the house where I was 
 staying, and called out to my host, “ Come with me, 
 make haste, for Tang-a is dying.” We hastened 
 to the adjoining house, which was the abode of the 
 sick man, but found that the king of terrors had 
 been before us, and the priest was dead. By this 
 time about a dozen persons were collected, who 
 were all gazing intently on the countenance of 
 the dead man. After allowing a few minutes to 
 elapse, orders were given to have the body washed 
 and dressed, and removed from the bed to a small 
 room with an open front, which was situated on 
 the opposite side of the little court. Mosquito 
 curtains were then hung round the bed on which 
 the body was placed, a lamp and some candles 
 were lighted, as well as some sticks of incense, and 
 these were kept burning day and night. For 
 three days the body lay in state, during which 
 time, at stated intervals, four or five priests decked 
 in yellow robes chanted their peculiar service. 
 On the third day I was told that the coffin was 
 ready, and, on expressing a wish to see it, was 
 led into an adjoining temple. “ Are there two 
 priests dead?” said I, on observing another coffin 
 in the same place. “ No,” said one, “ but that 
 second coffin belongs to the priest who lived with 
 deceased, and it will remain here until it is needed.” 
 
Chap. VIII. 
 
 FUNERAL CEREMONIES. 
 
 151 
 
 On the evening of this day, when I returned 
 from my labours amongst the hills, I called in 
 again to see what was going on, and now a very 
 different scene presented itself. And here I must 
 endeavour to describe the form of the premises in 
 order that this scene may be better understood. 
 The little house or temple consisted of a centre 
 and two wings, the wings being built at right 
 angles with the centre and forming with it three 
 sides of a square : a high wall connected the two 
 wings, and so a little court or Chinese garden was 
 formed, very small in extent. A square table was 
 placed inside the central hall or temple, one in 
 front of it, and one in front of each of the two 
 wings. Each of these tables was covered with 
 good things — such as rice, vegetables, fruits, cakes, 
 and other delicacies, all the produce of the vege- 
 table kingdom,. and intended as a feast for Buddha, 
 whom these people worship. This offering differed 
 from others which I had often seen in the public 
 streets and in private houses, in having no animal 
 food in any of the dishes. The Buddhist priest- 
 hood profess an abhorrence of taking away animal 
 life or of eating animal food, and hence no food of 
 the kind was observed on any of the tables now 
 before me. On two strings which were hung 
 diagonally across the court, from the central temple 
 to each end of the front wall, were suspended 
 numerous small paper dresses cut in Chinese fashion, 
 and on the ground were large quantities of paper 
 made up in the form and painted the colour of the 
 
152 
 
 FUNERAL CEREMONIES. 
 
 Chap. VIII. 
 
 ingots of Sycee silver common in circulation. The 
 clothes and silver were intended as an offering to 
 Buddha — certainly a cheap way of giving away 
 valuable presents. A rude painting of Buddha 
 was hung up in the centre of the court, in front of 
 which incense was burning, — and these with many 
 other objects of minor note completed the picture 
 which was presented to my view. “ Is not this 
 very fine?” said the priest to me ; “have you any 
 exhibitions of this kind in your country ? You 
 must pay a visit in the evening, when all will be 
 lighted up with candles, and when the scene will 
 be more grand and imposing.” I promised to 
 return in the evening, and took my leave. 
 
 About eight o’clock at night an old priest came 
 to inform me that all was lighted up, that the 
 ceremonies were about to begin, and kindly asked 
 me to accompany him. On our entrance the 
 whole court was blazing with the light of many 
 candles, the air was filled with incense, and the 
 scene altogether had an extraordinary and imposing 
 effect. A priest dressed in a rich scarlet robe, and 
 having a sort of star-shaped crown on his head, 
 with four others of an inferior order, were march- 
 ing up and down the court, and bowing lowly 
 before the images of the gods. At last they 
 entered the central hall, and took their seats at 
 two tables. The high-priest, if I may call him so, 
 occupied the head of the room, and had his chair 
 and table placed on a higher level than the others, 
 who were exactly in front of him. A servant now 
 
Chap. VIII. 
 
 A VISIT FROM BUDDHA. 
 
 153 
 
 placed a cup of tea before each of them, and the 
 service began. The high-priest uttered a few sen- 
 tences in a half-singing tone, making at the same 
 time a great many motions with his fingers as he 
 placed and replaced a number of grains of rice on 
 the table before him. Two little boys, dressed in 
 deep mourning (white), were engaged in prostrat- 
 ing themselves many times before the table at 
 which the higlr-priest sat ; and, as a singular con- 
 trast to all this seeming devotion, a number of 
 Chinese were sitting smoking on each side, and 
 looking on as if this was a play or some other 
 kind of like amusement. The other priests had 
 now joined in the chant, which was sometimes 
 slow, and at other times quick and loud, but gene- 
 rally in a melancholy tone, like all Chinese music. 
 
 A priest who was sitting at my elbow now 
 whispered in my ear that Buddha himself was 
 about to appear. “ You will not see him, nor shall 
 I, nor any one in the place except the high-priest, 
 who is clothed in the scarlet robe, and has a star- 
 shaped crown on his head — he will see him.” 
 Some one outside now fired three rockets, and at 
 once every sound was hushed ; one might have 
 heard a pin drop on the ground ; and the priest 
 at my elbow whispered — “Buddha comes.” — 
 “ Prostrate yourselves : ah ! pull your caps off,” 
 said one to the young priests in white, already 
 noticed. The boys immediately took off their 
 little white caps, and bent lowly on the straw 
 cushions placed in front of the various altars, and 
 
154 
 
 A VISIT FROM BUDDHA. 
 
 Chap. VIII. 
 
 knocked their heads many times on the ground. 
 At this particular moment the whole scene was 
 one of the strangest it had ever been my lot to 
 witness, and, although I knew it was nothing else 
 than delusion and idolatry, I must confess it pro- 
 duced an almost superstitious effect on my feelings. 
 “ And is Buddha now here in the midst of us ? ” 
 I asked the gentleman at my elbow. “ Yes, he 
 is,” he said ; “ the high-priest sees him, although 
 he is not visible to any one besides.” Things 
 remained in this state for a minute or two, and 
 then the leader of the ceremonies commenced once 
 more to chant in that drawling tone I have al- 
 ready noticed, to make various gyrations with his 
 hands, placing and replacing the rice-grains, and 
 the others joined in as before. My old friend the 
 priest, who had brought me in to see these cere- 
 monies, now presented himself and told me I had 
 seen all that was worth seeing, that the services 
 were nearly over, and that it was very late and 
 time to go home. On our way to our quarters he 
 informed me the funeral would take place early 
 next morning, just before sunrise, and that if 
 1 wished to attend he would call me at the proper 
 time. 
 
 Early in the twilight of next morning, and just 
 before the sun’s rays had tinged the peaks of the 
 highest mountains, I was awakened by the loud 
 report of fireworks. Dressing hastily, I hurried 
 down to the house where the scene of the pre- 
 ceding evening had been acted, and found myself 
 
Chap. YIII. 
 
 FUNERAL PROCESSION. 
 
 155 
 
 among tlie last of the sorrowful procession. Look- 
 ing into the court and hall, I found that the 
 sacrifices had been entirely removed, the tables 
 were hare, not a morsel of any kind remained, and 
 it seemed as if the gods had been satisfied with 
 their repast. The silver ingots, too, and the nu- 
 merous gaudily-painted dresses which had been pre- 
 sented as an offering, were smouldering in a corner 
 of the court, having been consumed by holy fire. 
 
 As the funeral procession proceeded slowly down, 
 inside the covered pathway adjoining the temple, 
 the large bell tolled in slow and measured tones, 
 rockets were fired now and then, and numerous 
 priests joined in as we went along. Having 
 reached the last temple of the range, the body was 
 deposited on two stools in front of one of the huge 
 images, and, China-like, before proceeding further, 
 all went home to breakfast. This important busi- 
 ness finished, the assembly met again in the temple, 
 and performed a short service, while the coolies 
 were busily employed in adjusting the ropes by 
 which they carried the coffin. All being ready, 
 two men went outside the temple and fired three 
 rockets, and then the procession started. First 
 went two hoys, carrying small flags on bamboo 
 poles, then came two men beating brass gongs, 
 and then came the chief mourner, dressed in white, 
 and carrying on a small table two candles which 
 were burning, some incense, and the monumental 
 tablet. After the chief mourner came the coffin, 
 followed by the young priests of the house to which 
 
156 
 
 FUNERAL PROCESSION. 
 
 Chav. VIII. 
 
 the deceased belonged, also clad in white, then the 
 servants and undertaker, and last of all a long- 
 train of priests. 
 
 I stood on one side of the lake, in front of the 
 temple, in order to get a good view of the pro- 
 cession as it winded round the other. It was a 
 beautiful October morning ; the sun was now 
 peeping over the eastern mountains behind the 
 monastery and shedding a flood of light on water, 
 shrubs, and trees, while every leaf sparkled with 
 drops of dew. In such a scene this long and strik- 
 ing procession had a most imposing effect. The 
 boys with their flags, the chief mourner moving 
 slowly along with his candles burning in the clear 
 daylight, the long line of priests with their shaven 
 heads and flowing garments, the lake in front, and 
 the hills covered with trees and brushwood be- 
 hind, were at once presented to my view. As we 
 passed a bridge, a little way from the temple, a 
 man belonging to the family of the deceased, and 
 who carried a basket containing cash — a Chinese 
 coin — presented a number of the followers with 
 a small sum, which they received with apparent 
 reluctance. Most of the priests followed the bier 
 but a short distance from the temple ; but the 
 chief mourner, the intimate friends, and servants, 
 with a band of music, followed the body to its last 
 resting-place. The spot selected was a retired and 
 beautiful one, on the lower side of a richly-wooded 
 hill. Here, without further ceremonies than the 
 firing of some rockets, we left the coffin on the 
 
Chap. VIII. RETURN FROM THE FUNERAL. 
 
 157 
 
 surface of the ground, to be covered with thatch 
 or brickwork at a future opportunity. 
 
 The procession, or rather what remained of it, 
 for it was now very small, returned to the temple. 
 As we passed the small villages and cottages on 
 our way the inmates crowded the doors, not to 
 look at the procession, for such things were not 
 unfrequent, hut to express their wonder that a 
 foreigner should have taken a part in it. When 
 we arrived at the temple I looked in to see what 
 was going on in the house from which the body 
 had been taken, and in which such a strange scene 
 had been acted the night before. It had been 
 swept out, the tables had been put back into their 
 proper places, two priests were quietly smoking 
 their pipes in the verandah, the cook was preparing 
 the forenoon meal in the back part of the house, 
 and, except that that meal seemed more sumptuous 
 than usual, there was nothing to indicate that 
 a short time previous it had been the house of 
 death. Such is life and death in China — not very 
 unlike in some particulars what it is in other parts 
 of the world. 
 
 In this part of the Chekiang province, and also 
 amongst the F ung-hwa mountains to the westward 
 of Ningpo, there are large quantities of a blue 
 dye produced, which is in fact the indigo of this 
 part of the country. Those who have read my 
 ‘ Wanderings in China,’ published in 1846, may 
 remember the account given there of a valuable 
 kind of indigo, made from a species of woad ( Isatis 
 
158 
 
 THE KUELLIA 1NDIG0TICA. 
 
 Chap. VIII. 
 
 indigotica ) wliicli is cultivated extensively in the 
 level country a few miles to the westward of 
 Shanghae. The kind which attracted my attention 
 in Chekiang is equally valuable, if not more so. 
 It is made from a species of media, which, until it 
 gets a better name, may be called liuellia indigotica. 
 It is a curious circumstance that the same plant, 
 apparently, has lately been discovered in the 
 Assam country in India, where it is also cultivated 
 for the blue dye it affords. I had an opportunity 
 of examining it in the garden of the Agricultural 
 and Horticultural Society at Calcutta, by whom it 
 had been introduced, and where it was standing 
 alongside of the Chinese kind, to which it certainly 
 bears a most striking resemblance : the point of 
 identity will easily be determined when the plants 
 come into flower. Strange it will be if it is ulti- 
 mately found that this species, which produces a 
 dye unknown to commerce, is in cultivation all the 
 way across from the eastern shores of China to the 
 borders of Bengal, and this is far from being 
 improbable. 
 
 This ruellia seems to be easily cultivated ; it 
 grows most luxuriantly, and is no doubt very pro- 
 ductive. Having evidently been found indigenous 
 a little farther to the south, in a warmer latitude, 
 it is not hardy in the province of Chekiang any 
 more than cotton is about Shanghae ; but neverthe- 
 less it succeeds admirably as a summer crop. It is 
 planted in the end of April or beginning of May, 
 after the spring frosts are over, and is cleared 
 
Chap. YITI. 
 
 PRESERVATION OF PLANTS. 
 
 159 
 
 from the ground in October before those of autumn 
 make their appearance. During this period it 
 attains a height of a foot or a foot and a half, 
 becomes very bushy, and is densely covered with 
 large green leaves. It is cut down before any 
 flowers are formed. 
 
 The Chinese method of preserving plants for 
 next year’s crop is most ingenious and well worth 
 notice. Being somewhat tender, as I have already 
 remarked, the roots which are left in the ground 
 after the gathering season are all destroyed by the 
 first frosts of winter. But the Chinese cultivator 
 does not depend upon these for the crop of the 
 following year, nor does he take them up or 
 cover them in any way. They have done their 
 duty for one year, and are now left to their fate. 
 
 Cuttings are found to be much more vigorous 
 and productive than the old roots, and to the 
 formation and preservation of these cuttings the 
 Chinese cultivator directs his attention. When 
 the stems are cut down for the manufacture of 
 indigo, a sufficient quantity have their leaves 
 stripped off, and are afterwards taken into a house 
 or shed to he properly prepared. The leaves thus 
 stripped from the cuttings are thrown into the 
 tanks with the other stems and leaves, so that 
 nothing is lost except what is actually required for 
 the purposes of propagation. The stems are now 
 tied up firmly in large bundles, each containing 
 upwards of 1000, and the ends of each bundle 
 are cut across, so as to leave them perfectly neat 
 
160 
 
 CULTIVATION OF DYE-PLANT. 
 
 Chap. VIII. 
 
 and even both at top and bottom. These bundles 
 are each about a foot long, and, of course, nearly 
 round. Having been thus prepared, they are 
 carried to a dry shed or outhouse, where, in some 
 snug corner, they are packed closely and firmly 
 together, and banked round with very dry loam. 
 A portion of the dry soil is also shaken in between 
 the bundles ; and this being done, the operation 
 is complete. Should the winter prove unusually 
 severe, a little dry straw or litter is thrown over 
 the surface of the cuttings, but nothing else is 
 required. During the winter months the cuttings 
 remain green and plump ; and, although no leaves 
 are produced, a few roots are generally found 
 formed, or in the act of forming, when the winter 
 has passed, and the season for planting has come 
 round. In this state they are taken to the fields 
 and planted. The weather during the planting 
 season is generally showery, as this happens about 
 the change of the monsoon, when the air is charged 
 with moisture. A few days of this warm showery 
 weather is sufficient to establish the new crop, 
 which now goes on growing with luxuriance, and 
 requires little attention during the summer — indeed 
 none, except keeping the land free from weeds. 
 
 In the country where this dye is grown there 
 are numerous pits or tanks on the edges of the 
 fields. They are usually circular in form ; and one 
 which I measured was eleven feet in diameter, 
 and two feet in depth. About 400 catties* of 
 
 * A Chinese catty is equal to 1 \ lb. 
 
Chap. VIII. 
 
 THE MANUFACTURE. 
 
 161 
 
 stems and leaves are thrown into a tank of this 
 size, which is then filled to the brim with clear 
 water. In five days the plant is partially decom- 
 posed, and the water lias become lightish-green in 
 colour. At this period the whole of the stems 
 and leaves are removed from the tank with a flat- 
 headed broom made of bamboo twigs, an admirable 
 instrument for the purpose. When every particle 
 has been removed, the workmen employed give 
 the water a circular and rapid motion with the 
 brooms just noticed, which is continued for some 
 time. During this part of the operation another 
 man has employed himself in mixing about thirty 
 catties of lime with water, which water has been 
 taken out of the tank for the purpose. This is 
 now thrown into the tank, and the rapid circular 
 motion of the w T ater is kept up for a few minutes 
 longer. When the lime and water have been well 
 mixed in this way the circular motion is allowed 
 to cease. Four men now station themselves round 
 the tank and commence beating the water with 
 bamboo rakes made for this purpose. The beating 
 process is a very gentle one ; as it goes on the 
 water gradually changes from a greenish hue to a 
 dingy yellow, while the froth becomes of a beau- 
 tiful bright blue. During the process the head 
 workman takes a pailful of the liquid out of the 
 tank and beats it rapidly with his hand. Under 
 this operation it changes colour at once, and its 
 value is judged of by the hue it presents. The 
 beating process generally lasts for about half an 
 
102 
 
 INDIGO. 
 
 Chap. VIII. 
 
 hour. At the end of tliis time the whole of the 
 surface of the tank is covered with a thick coating 
 of froth of the most brilliant colours, in which blue 
 predominates, particularly near the edges. 
 
 At this stage, it being desirable to incorporate 
 the froth with the liquid below it, I witnessed a 
 most beautiful chemical operation which took me 
 completely by surprise, and showed how universally 
 must be the knowledge of the effect of throwing 
 “ oil upon the waters.” A very small portion -of 
 cabbage-oil — only a few drops — was thrown on the 
 surface of the froth, the workmen then stirred and 
 beat it gently with their flat brooms for a second 
 or two, and the whole disappeared as if by some 
 enchanter’s wand. And so small a quantity of oil 
 was necessary for this purpose that even when the 
 cup had been emptied, and had only the oil that 
 was necessarily adhering to its edges, it was thrown 
 into another tank, and produced the desired effect. 
 
 The liquid, which is now darker in colour, is 
 allowed to stand quiet for some hours, until the 
 colouring matter has sunk to the lower stratum, 
 when about two-thirds of the surface is drawn off 
 and thrown away. The remaining third part 
 is then drawn into a small square tank on a 
 lower level, which is thatched over with straw, 
 and here it remains for three or four days. By 
 this time the colouring matter has separated itself 
 from the water, which is now entirely drained 
 off — the dye occupying three or four inches of the 
 bottom in the form of a thick paste, and of a beau- 
 
Chap. VIII. 
 
 GREEN INDIGO. 
 
 163 
 
 tiful blue colour. In this state it is packed in 
 baskets, and exposed for sale in all the country 
 towns in this part of China. What its intrinsic 
 value may be when compared with the indigo 
 of commerce, I have no means of ascertaining, but 
 it is largely used in this part of the world, where 
 blue is the most fashionable colour, judging from 
 the dresses of the people. And it is possible that 
 with our knowledge of chemistry a colour of this 
 kind might be greatly improved. After being 
 grown and manufactured as I have described, 
 it is sold at rates varying from 50 to 100 cash 
 a catty, say from 2 d. to 4 d. per lb. Some is sold 
 as low as 30 cash, but this is very inferior ; the 
 greater part produced is sold at from 60 to 
 80 cash a catty, and it must be of a very superior 
 quality if 100 cash is paid. Like the Shanghae 
 indigo made from Isatis indigotica, it is called 
 “ Tien-ching” by the Chinese. While upon the 
 subject of Chinese dyes, I shall now give some 
 account of the “ green indigo,” which has been 
 attracting much notice lately both in India and in 
 Europe. 
 
 A portion of cotton cloth obtained in China by 
 the French manufacturers, being greatly admired 
 on account of the peculiar green of its dye, was 
 submitted to the celebrated chemist M. Persoz. 
 with a request that he would endeavour to ascer- 
 tain the composition of the green colour. Tlie 
 following is a translation of his report upon this 
 subject to the Academy of Sciences : — 
 
 N 
 
164 
 
 GREEN INDIGO. 
 
 Chai\ VIII. 
 
 ON A GREEN COLOURING MATERIAL PRODUCED IN 
 CHINA. 
 
 By Mons. J. Pehsoz. 
 
 I have the honour to place before the Academy a spe- 
 cimen of a colouring material used in China as a green 
 dye for textile fibres. With the permission of the Academy 
 I will briefly state how I was led to a knowledge of the 
 existence of this dye. 
 
 Mons. Daniel Koechlin-Schouc forwarded to me last 
 autumn a specimen of calico dyed in China, of a rich and 
 very permanent green, with a request that I should en- 
 deavour to ascertain the composition of the green colour. 
 Every attempt that I made upon the specimen to detect 
 evidence of the presence of a blue or yellow failed, and I 
 was led to the conviction, by isolating the colouring prin- 
 ciple, that the green was produced by a dyeing material 
 of a peculiar nature and mi generis. It further was 
 evident, — 
 
 1st. That the colouring matter was an organic product 
 of vegetable origin ; 
 
 2nd. That the fabric on which it was fixed was charged 
 with a strong dose of alum and a little oxide of iron and 
 lime, bodies the presence of which necessarily implied that 
 mordants had been used in dyeing the calico. 
 
 These results were so positive, and at the same time so 
 opposed, not only to everything known in Europe regard- 
 ing the composition of green colour, hut also to all that 
 is recorded by writers regarding the dyeing processes 
 employed in China for the production of green, that I 
 was induced to go into a more detailed investigation of 
 the subject ; and about the end of last November I 
 applied to Mr. Forbes, the American consul at Canton, 
 for some of this valuable material. I am indebted to his 
 kindness for a specimen weighing about one gramme 
 (15| grains). 
 
 The substance is met with in thin plates, of a blue 
 
Chap. VIII. 
 
 GREEN INDIGO. 
 
 165 
 
 colour, having a strong analogy with that of Java indigo, 
 but of a finer cake, and differing besides from indigo both 
 in its composition and in all its chemical properties. On 
 infusing a small fragment of the substance in water, the 
 liquid speedily became coloured of a deep blue, with a 
 shade of green. After the temperature had been raised to 
 the boiling point, a piece of calico, prepared for printing 
 with mordants of alum and oxide of non, was dipped in it, 
 and a true dye was the result. The following appearances 
 were observed : — ■ 
 
 The portions of the fabric to which alum had been 
 applied showed a deep green, of more or less intensity, 
 according to the strength of the mordant. 
 
 The portions charged with both alum and oxide of iron 
 yielded a deep green, with a shade of olive. 
 
 The portions charged with oxide of iron alone yielded a 
 deep olive. 
 
 The parts of the cloth where no mordant had been 
 applied remained sensibly paler. 
 
 The colours thus obtained were treated with all the 
 reagents to which the Chinese calico had in the first in- 
 stance been subjected, and they behaved in precisely the 
 same manner. From these experiments it may be in- 
 ferred, — 
 
 1st. That the Cliinese possess a dye-stuff presenting the 
 physical aspect of indigo, which dies green with mordants 
 of alum and iron. 
 
 2nd. That tins dye-stuff contains neither indigo nor 
 anything derived from that dyeing principle. 
 
 Mons. Legentil, President of the Chamber of Commerce 
 of Paris, having perceived the importance of France being 
 speedily put in possession of tins valuable material, with a 
 view to the interests of science and of industry, took the 
 necessary steps several months ago for procuring a suitable 
 quantity with the least possible delay, and, at the same 
 time, to have inquiries made as to its origin and mode of 
 preparation. 
 
 N 2 
 
166 
 
 GREEN INDIGO. 
 
 Ciiap. VIII. 
 
 I purpose submitting to the Academy a full account of 
 this new dye as soon as I am enabled to make a more 
 detailed and satisfactory examination of it.* 
 
 This matter attracted a good deal of notice 
 both in France and in England, and the officials 
 of both countries stationed in China were written 
 to by their respective governments and desired to 
 get what information they could upon it. But in 
 China it is a difficult matter to obtain correct 
 information upon anything which does not come 
 directly under one’s eye ; and if the correspond- 
 ence upon this subject was published, it would, no 
 doubt, exhibit as many amusing blunders as used 
 to be made about the Chinese rice-paper plant in 
 former days. By some the flowers of the Whi-mei 
 (Sophora japonica ) were sent home as the “ green 
 indigo but this plant yields a yellow dye, and, 
 even when mixed with blue to make a green, the 
 green is not that kind noticed by the French 
 manufacturers. 
 
 From an extensive knowledge of the produc- 
 tions of China, gained during several years of 
 travel, I was not so easily imposed upon as others, 
 but notwithstanding this advantage it was some 
 time before I could be sure that I was “ upon the 
 right scent.” At last I remembered having seen 
 a peculiar kind of dye cultivated largely some 
 miles to the westward of Hang-chow-foo, and I 
 determined to visit that part of the country again, 
 
 * Translated from the ‘ Comptes Rendus de l’Academie des Sciences.’ 
 Seance de Lundi, 18 October, 1852. 
 
Chap. VIII. 
 
 GREEN INDIGO. 
 
 167 
 
 and examine the dye more minutely. Here I 
 found fields under cultivation with a kind of 
 Rhamnus apparently. The Chinese farmer called 
 it “ Loli-zah,” or “ Soli-loh-shoo,” and showed me 
 samples of the cloth which had been dyed with 
 it. To my delight these samples corresponded 
 exactly with those sent hack from France, one 
 of which was in my possession. But he told me 
 that two kinds were necessary — namely, the 
 variety they cultivated in their fields, and one 
 which grew wild on the hills — in order to pro- 
 duce the dye in question. The former they called 
 the yellow kind, and the latter the white kind. 
 The dye itself was not extracted by them, they 
 were merely the growers, and therefore I could 
 get no information as to its manufacture. I how- 
 ever secured a good supply of plants and seeds of 
 both kinds, which were afterwards sent to India 
 and England. 
 
 My further inquiries on the subject of the 
 manufacture of the “ green indigo ” were con- 
 ducted in connexion with Dr. Lockhart and the 
 Rev. J. Edkins, of Slianghae. We found that a 
 considerable portion of this dye was made near a 
 city called Kia-hing-foo, situated a few miles west 
 from Shanghae, and Mr. Edkins procured a bundle 
 of chips there which exhibited the state in which 
 the article is sold in the market. Since I left 
 China I have received the following interesting 
 letter from Dr. Lockhart, which throws much 
 light on the subject. The information was pro- 
 
168 
 
 GREEN INDIGO. 
 
 Chap. VIII. 
 
 cured by Mr. Edkins, and may therefore be fully 
 relied ujion. 
 
 “ The bark of two kinds of the tree known as 
 the ‘green shrub’ (Luk-chae), one wild, which 
 is called the white , and another cultivated, which 
 is called the yellow , are used to obtain the dye. 
 The white bark tree grows abundantly in the 
 neighbourhoods of Kea-liing and Ningpo ; the 
 yellow is produced at Tsah-kou-pang, where the 
 dye is manufactured. This place is two or three 
 miles west from Wang-tseen, a market-town situ- 
 ated a little to the south of Kea-hing. 
 
 “ The two kinds are placed together in iron 
 pans and thoroughly boiled. The residuum is left 
 undisturbed for three days, after which it is placed 
 in large earthenware vessels, and cotton cloth, 
 prepared with lime, is dyed with it several times. 
 After five or six immersions the colouring matter 
 is washed from the cloth with water, and placed in 
 iron pans to be again boiled. It is then taken uj) 
 on cotton yarn several times in succession, and 
 when absorbed in this way it is next washed off 
 and sprinkled on thin paper. When half dry the 
 paper is pasted on light screens and strongly 
 exposed to the sun. The product is called Luk- 
 kaou. In dyeing cotton cloth with it ten parts 
 are mixed with three parts of subcarbonate of 
 potash in boiling water. 
 
 “ The dye made at Tsah-kou-pang is not used 
 to dye silk fabrics, because it is only a rough 
 surface which takes it readily. To colour silk 
 
Chap. YIII. 
 
 GREEN INDIGO. 
 
 169 
 
 with it so much of the material must be used that 
 it will not pay. All cotton fabrics, also grass- 
 clotlis, take the colour readily. The dye does not 
 fade with washing , which gives it a superiority over 
 other greens. 
 
 “ It is sent from Kea-hing as far as Shantung. 
 It is also made in the province of Hoonan and at 
 Ningpo, but the dye at these places is said to be of 
 an inferior quality. It has long been used by 
 painters in water-colours, but the application of 
 it to dye cloth was first made only about twenty 
 years ago. If some method could be discovered 
 of applying it to silk fabrics it would become still 
 more useful.” 
 
 The information obtained by Mr. Edkins on this 
 subject is, no doubt, perfectly correct. It agrees 
 in the most important particulars with what I had 
 gleaned from time to time amongst the Chinese 
 in various parts of the country. The chips he 
 brought with him from Kea-hing were identical 
 with the “ Soh-loh,” or “ Loh-zah” (Bhamnus sp.), 
 which I have already mentioned, and his state- 
 ment that two varieties of the plant are used 
 to produce the dye agrees with my own observa- 
 tions. 
 
 The mode of extracting the dye from the bark 
 or wood (for both seem to be used), as practised by 
 the Chinese, appears to be slow and tedious, but 
 with our superior knowledge of chemistry this 
 might possibly be improved. 
 
 From these investigations it would appear that 
 
170 
 
 GREEN INDIGO. 
 
 Chap. VIII. 
 
 two colouring principles are necessary to the pro- 
 duction of this dye. This, however, will not affect 
 the value of it as a rich and permanent green, a 
 quality which has been appreciated by the French 
 manufacturers, and which is also well known to 
 the Chinese. 
 
Chap. IX. JOURNEY TO THE SNOWY VALLEY. 
 
 171 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Journey to the Snowy Valley and waterfalls — Kong-k‘how pagoda — 
 Adventure with a blind man — Elaborate carving — A new acquaint- 
 ance, Mr. A-chang — Iron-ore — Mountain stream — Its rafts and 
 cormorants — The temple of the Snowy Valley — Description of the 
 falls — Our dinner and guests — How Mr. A-chang enjoys it — Ilis 
 lecture on medical botany and lucky spots for graves — A Buddhist 
 recluse — Continue our journey across the mountains — Natural 
 productions — - Fine variety of bamboo — Its introduction to India 
 — Romantic glen — Arrive at our boats and bid adieu to Mr. 
 A-chang. 
 
 During my travels in the province of Chekiang 
 I had frequently heard of some celebrated water- 
 falls near a place named Seue-tow-sze, or the 
 “ Snowy Valley Temple,” which is situated amongst 
 the mountains some forty or fifty miles to the 
 south-west of the city of Ningpo. Having not 
 been in this direction, and being anxious to ex- 
 amine the natural productions of these hills, I 
 determined on paying a visit to the falls. 
 
 Leaving Ningpo about mid-day, with the first 
 of the flood-tide, a party of English gentlemen and 
 myself sailed rapidly up the river in some small 
 country boats which we had hired for the journey. 
 The country through which we passed, and which 
 may be called the plain of Ningpo, is perfectly 
 level, and is not remarkable for any striking fea- 
 ture ; but it is exceedingly fertile and produces 
 
172 
 
 KONG-K‘HOW PAGODA. 
 
 Chap. IX. 
 
 large crops of rice, which is the staple food of 
 the inhabitants. It is thickly covered with small 
 towns, villages, and farm-houses ; and, like all the 
 fertile plains in China which have come under my 
 observation, it teems with population. As our 
 boatmen went on during the night, we found our- 
 selves next morning at the base of the hills which 
 bound the plain on the south-west, and in the 
 district of Fung-hwa. On one of these hills stands 
 a pagoda named Kong-Vhow-ta , which is visible 
 for many miles, and from which an excellent view 
 of the low country is obtained. Making our boats 
 fast to the river-bank, we stepped on shore and 
 took the first turning which led to the hill on 
 which the pagoda stands. When we reached the 
 summit of this hill, which appeared to be about 
 1000 feet above the level of the sea, we were 
 rewarded with one of those splendid views which 
 are, perhaps, more striking in the fertile districts 
 of China than in any other country. Beneath us, 
 and stretching to the north and eastward, was the 
 level plain through which we had passed during 
 the night. The city of Ningpo occupied its centre, 
 and it seemed bounded on all sides, except the 
 north and east, by hills and mountains varying in 
 height from 1000 to 3000 feet — while far away to 
 the eastward lay the islands of the Chusan archi- 
 pelago, studded about in the China Sea. From 
 this pagoda one can count six or seven others, 
 each of which marks the position of some ancient 
 city in the plain, or Buddhist monastery on the 
 
Chap. IX. 
 
 FERTILITY OF THE COUNTRY. 
 
 173 
 
 hills. Towns and villages were visible in which- 
 ever direction our eyes were turned, and every 
 part of the extensive plain appeared to he under 
 cultivation. Indeed industry and perseverance 
 seem to be absolutely necessary in order to make 
 the ground yield food for such a mass of human 
 beings. If the population of the country really 
 amounts to more than three hundred millions — 
 and there seems to he no reason to doubt this — 
 and taking into consideration that a vast extent 
 of its surface is covered with mountains so barren 
 that they must ever defy all attempts at cultiva- 
 tion, the valleys and other portions of cultivated 
 land would require to he fertile indeed, and to 
 have a nation as industrious and persevering as 
 the Chinese to make the ground productive. 
 
 On ascending the hill, and examining its natural 
 productions as I went along, I somehow or other 
 got off the little pathway, and found myself all at 
 once brought up by a fence which seemed to en- 
 close a small monastic building. Inside of this 
 fence there were a number of trees and bushes 
 which seemed worth looking at, and I was also 
 desirous of seeing the little temple itself. Follow- 
 ing the fence some way round in the hope of 
 finding an entrance, the ground began to get very 
 rugged, and my progress was greatly impeded. 
 At last I thought there would be no great harm 
 in jumping over the fence, which I could easily 
 do, as it was only four or five feet in height. No 
 sooner did the idea enter my mind than it was put 
 
174 
 
 ADVENTURE WITH A BLIND MAN. Chap. IX. 
 
 into execution, and I was inside the enclosure in 
 a moment. A number of watcli-dogs, which I 
 had disturbed, came running towards me, looking 
 very fierce and making a loud noise. Chinese 
 dogs are generally harmless enough and great 
 cowards, so that in this instance, with a good 
 stout stick in my hand, I felt no alarm whatever, 
 but went quietly on with my botanical researches. 
 In a few seconds an old man, who had been dis- 
 turbed by the barking of the dogs, came rushing 
 towards me with a stout bamboo in his hand, and 
 looking as if he intended to use it. He was evi- 
 dently in a towering passion. “ Where had I 
 come from ? ” “ What did I want ? ” “ Why had 
 
 I come over the fence ? ” were questions which he 
 put loudly and rapidly, interspersing them from 
 time to time with remarks which were not at all 
 flattering to my character or intentions. I knew 
 that I had done wrong, but the offence seemed 
 slight comparatively, and one which a stranger 
 and a foreigner in China might commit without 
 being called to account for it in this boisterous 
 manner. I remonstrated with the old man, com- 
 mencing in the most polite and approved manner 
 by asking him “ if he had had his breakfast ? ”* I 
 then told him, when I could get a word in, that I 
 was no thief, that I had merely come to pay him 
 
 * This is a polite mode of salutation amongst the Chinese, not 
 unlike our own way of making remarks upon the weather. It is related 
 of a loving couple who had been separated for many years, that the 
 first words the wife said to her husband were — “ Have you had your 
 dinner ? ’’ 
 
Chap. IX. 
 
 THE MISTAKE RECTIFIED. 
 
 175 
 
 a visit, and that if he treated me so rudely I would 
 go away again. Matters were in this state, when 
 a young man came running np to the old one, 
 smiling and making a low how to me at the same 
 time. This new actor on the scene whispered a 
 word or two into the old man’s ear, one of which 
 sounded very like Hong-mou-jin (foreigner) . In the 
 twinkling of an eye his countenance changed, the 
 storm had passed into sunshine, his bamboo was 
 thrown from him, and, clasping the palms of his 
 hands together, he made me a low bow and asked 
 me to forgive him, for he was blind. It was indeed 
 so, and hence the whole cause of the strange, and, 
 to me, unaccountable scene in which I had been 
 one of the actors. I was now surprised at my own 
 blindness in not detecting this before ; but the 
 whole thing occurred so suddenly that I had little 
 time for observation. 
 
 The old man, now all smiles and good-humour, 
 led me round his garden — blind, stone-blind, 
 though he was — and told me the names of his 
 various trees and shrubs, and the uses to which 
 each was applied when it happened that it had 
 any virtues in medicine, or if it “ was good for 
 food.” I was then led into his house, where I was 
 invited to partake of the usual beverage — tea. 
 Remaining for a few minutes to accept his hos- 
 pitality, I bade him adieu, and joined my com- 
 panions on the top of the hill. 
 
 After inspecting the pagoda we proceeded on- 
 wards in our boats to a place called Too-poo-dow, 
 
176 
 
 MR. A-CHANG. 
 
 Chap. IX. 
 
 which is a few miles further up the river and as 
 far as it is navigable for boats. We remained here 
 for the night, and made preparations for a land- 
 journey to the Snowy Valley, which we determined 
 to take on the following day. Early next morning, 
 while breakfast was getting ready, we went to see 
 a pretty, small temple called the Sieu-Wang-Meou, 
 which the people told us was well worth visiting. 
 This temple is finely situated on a small hill, 
 having rich woods behind and the river winding 
 past in front, — hut as a building it is chiefly re- 
 markable for a most elaborately carved stone altar 
 — the finest specimen of the kind which I have 
 met with in China. While engaged in examining 
 this curious work of Chinese art, a respectable- 
 looking old man came running breathless into the 
 temple and introduced himself as Mr. A-cliang, 
 and told us he was a mandarin or small govern- 
 ment officer connected with the temple. A slight 
 glance at his features told us he was no common 
 man. He was most loquacious and particularly 
 civil and obliging ; he went all over the edifice 
 with us, explaining, or endeavouring to explain, 
 the elaborate carving of the altar and the various 
 rude pictures which covered the walls. Having a 
 long journey before us, we had little time to spare, 
 and were, therefore, obliged to take a hurried 
 leave of our obliging friend, who told us he would 
 pay us a visit at our boats before we started for 
 the Falls. We had just finished breakfast, when 
 to our surprise the old gentleman presented him- 
 
Chap. IX. 
 
 IRON-ORE. 
 
 177 
 
 self, dressed, and evidently prepared for a journey. 
 “ Air ! ” said lie, “ I told you I would see you 
 before you started, and I have made up my mind 
 to go with you and show you the road.” As lie 
 seemed a most amusing character, and, moreover, 
 was most useful in enabling us to make arrange- 
 ments with coolies and cliair-bearers, we made no 
 objection to his joining our party. And we had 
 no reason to regret the circumstance, for he was 
 invaluable as a guide and afforded a rich fund of 
 amusement. Our coolies being at last engaged 
 and loaded with some few necessaries, and our 
 mountain-chairs all ready, we despatched our boats 
 to another part of the country — a place called 
 Ning-kang-jou, some miles further west and on 
 another branch of the river. 
 
 About twenty or twenty-five miles south-west 
 from Too-poo-dow there is a beautiful mountain- 
 pass called by the natives Yang-ling. Here, in 
 addition to the common trees of these mountains, the 
 funereal cypress grows in great abundance, and 
 forms a striking feature in the landscape. This 
 part of the country is said by the Rev. Dr. Medliurst 
 to be rich in iron-ore. At a place called Sha-k‘he 
 there is an iron-foundry. “ The furnace for melting 
 the iron was about five feet high and three feet in 
 diameter, filled to the brim with charcoal and iron- 
 ore. The blast was formed by a rude box-bellows, 
 and at the time we arrived the whole was in a 
 state of operation. We asked them from whence 
 they obtained their iron-ore, and they pointed to 
 
178 
 
 MOUNTAIN STREAM. 
 
 Chap. IX. 
 
 the adjoining stream, from the bottom of which 
 they obtained large quantities of black sand, which 
 was for the most part iron. Having melted it in 
 this furnace, and formed cakes of raw iron, about 
 a foot square and an inch thick, they then brought 
 it to the forge, and reduced it to the state of 
 wrought iron, in blocks four inches long by two 
 wide and one thick. This they carried to the 
 market and sold.” * 
 
 From Too-poo-dow to the Snowy Yalley the dis- 
 tance is about nine or ten miles. Headed by our 
 mandarin friend, and surrounded by hundreds of 
 the natives of both sexes, old and young, we 
 started on our journey. The road, which was a 
 narrow footpath, led us up the valley and every 
 now and then we approached the banks of the 
 stream, which was now quite narrow, shallow, and 
 in some places very rapid. Although no longer 
 navigated by boats, it was still made to serve the 
 purpose of the industrious inhabitants in a number 
 of other ways. Small rafts, made by lashing a 
 few bamboo poles together, were plying about in 
 all directions, bringing the productions of the hills 
 down to Too-poo-dow, where they could be put 
 into boats and so conveyed onwards to the lowland 
 towns for sale. Large quantities of basket-tea, 
 liquid indigo, paper, mats, wood, and such-like 
 hill productions were observed coming down the 
 river in this way. Fish seemed most abundant in 
 the little stream ; and as it was now far beyond the 
 
 * Rev. Dr. Medhurst, in N. China Herald. 
 
Chap. IX. 
 
 MOUNTAIN PASS. 
 
 179 
 
 influence of tides and clear as crystal, my old 
 friends, the fishing cormorants, were employed in 
 catching large fish for their masters and small 
 ones for themselves. 
 
 The valley through which we passed, although 
 in many places very sandy from the effects of the 
 swelling of mountain-streams, was yet generally 
 rich and fertile. On the road, at stated distances 
 apart, were covered resting-places for travellers, 
 where shelter from a storm or shade from the 
 noonday sun might be had by rich or by poor. 
 Little villages and farm - houses were observed 
 clustered about in various directions, and the la- 
 bourers who were at work in the fields seemed 
 happy and unoppressed. Looking upon a quiet 
 scene like this, one could scarcely believe that a 
 civil war was raging in the country, not a greater 
 distance off than 100 miles, where acts of savage 
 cruelty were daily perpetrated which made one’s 
 blood run cold. Yet such was the fact. 
 
 After winding up the valley for about six miles 
 we came to the foot of a mountain-pass, and began 
 gradually to ascend. As we reached a higher 
 elevation, the scenery became more varied in ap- 
 pearance than it had been in the plain, and very 
 beautiful. We were surrounded by hills and 
 mountains of every conceivable form, — some were 
 peaked, precipitous, and barren, while others 
 sloped gently upwards, and were covered densely 
 with pines and brushwood. Far away down in the 
 valley below us, the little stream, at whose source 
 
 o 
 
180 
 
 SNOWY VALLEY. 
 
 Chap. IX. 
 
 we had now arrived, was seen winding its way 
 amongst the hills, and hastening onwards to swell 
 the noble river which flows past the city of 
 Ningpo. 
 
 When we arrived at the top of the pass we found 
 ourselves at the entrance of the Snowy Yalley, 
 which lay a little beyond, and nearly at the same 
 elevation, estimated at about 2000 feet above the 
 level of the sea. This valley is surrounded on all 
 sides by mountains. At one point is the pass 
 which I have just noticed, and at another is an 
 opening for a small mountain-stream, which, as it 
 leaves the valley, falls over a precipice of rocks 
 into a glen some three or four hundred feet below, 
 and forms the noble falls we had come to see. The 
 temple of the Snowy Yalley, an old and dilapidated 
 Buddhist building, occupies the centre or upper 
 end of the valley, and to that we proceeded in 
 order to procure quarters for the night for our- 
 selves and our coolies. Here we found our old 
 Chinese friend ready to receive us, and, with the 
 priests of the monastery, gave us a cordial and 
 hearty welcome. It was now late in the afternoon, 
 within an hour of sunset ; but as our baggage had 
 not arrived, we determined to go out and visit the 
 upper part of the falls, reserving the lower or 
 glen view until the following morning. To our 
 surprise, Mr. A-ehang— who had walked all the 
 way, and who we supposed must be very tired-— 
 intimated his intention of accompanying us. We 
 therefore set out with him as our guide, and in a 
 
Chap. IX. 
 
 SNOWY VALLEY. 
 
 181 
 
 few minutes we reached the edge of the valley and 
 heard the noise of the falls. As we followed our 
 guide along a small path, through trees and brush- 
 wood, we were scarcely prepared for the view 
 which was about to he presented to our eyes. All 
 at once we arrived at the edge of a precipice, which 
 made us quite giddy as we looked over it. The 
 water rolled out of the valley over the precipice, 
 and long before it reached the bottom it was con- 
 verted into showers of spray. Far below us was 
 a deep and narrow glen, through which the little 
 stream was quietly meandering after leaving the 
 falls. As we skirted the mountains on the west 
 side of the Snowy Valley we found our progress 
 every now and then arrested by perpendicular 
 rocks such as I have just noticed ; and during the 
 rainy season there are several other falls, which, 
 our guide informed us, were not much inferior in 
 beauty to that which we had just visited. 
 
 As it was now nearly dark, and rather dan- 
 gerous work travelling amongst such scenery, we 
 retraced our steps to the old monastery. Here we 
 found our coolies had arrived with our beds and 
 other necessaries, and the cook was busy pre- 
 paring dinner. When our meal was ready we 
 requested Mr. A-chang to honour us with his 
 company, and all sat down with a full determina- 
 tion to do justice to the viands before us, and for 
 which the long journey and fresh air of the moun- 
 tains had made us fully prepared. A-chang 
 seemed to relish the dinner — English though it 
 
 o 2 
 
182 
 
 A JOVIAL PARTY. 
 
 Chap. IX. 
 
 was — as much as any of us. He ate with knife 
 and fork, tossed off his glass of beer, and took 
 wine with us all round, in the most approved 
 manner. When dinner was over he asked for a 
 cigar and a glass of brandy and water, and evi- 
 dently intended to enjoy himself for this evening 
 at least. In order to amuse and humour him we 
 proposed his health with “ three times three,” 
 and made the old temple ring again as we 
 gave him a specimen of our national airs, ‘ Rule 
 Britannia ’ and ‘ Grod save the Queen.’ But the 
 old man was not to be outdone : he returned 
 thanks to us for drinking his health : he recited 
 poetry of his own ; sang Chinese songs ; and every 
 now and then burst out into a hearty laugh, 
 which we could not help joining in without know- 
 ing very well why we did so. The court outside 
 was full of Chinamen, who were evidently enjoy- 
 ing with great zest Mr. A-chang’s songs and 
 recitations. Inside, perched upon a chair, sat a 
 young priest, with his eyes fixed upon the bottles 
 on the table. An empty beer-bottle had been 
 given to him at the commencement of dinner, 
 and his whole soul seemed to be bent on getting 
 another. He neither moved, smiled, nor spoke, 
 but looked on in a dreamy manner, and never 
 took his eyes off the bottles. Our attention was 
 drawn to the boy by this singular proceeding, 
 and we desired one of the servants to find another 
 bottle and give it to him, which having been 
 done, the little fellow disappeared for the night. 
 
Chap. IX. 
 
 THE FALLS. 
 
 183 
 
 As we were all rather tired with the day’s 
 exertions, we felt an inclination to retire early to 
 rest. We had some difficulty in inducing our 
 mandarin friend to leave us, as he was evidently 
 prepared to “ make a night of it but as English- 
 men have degenerated very much, and cannot 
 imitate now the noisy drunken squires of the 
 olden time, we gave him sundry hints, which he 
 took at last, and left us to our own meditations. 
 We were now shown into a wretched room in 
 which were placed some five or six bedsteads, 
 on each of which was a dirty straw mat, with 
 some straw below it. The mats and straw were 
 removed by our servants, the rude bedsteads were 
 dusted down, and our own clean things then put 
 in order. Retiring immediately our friend left, 
 we were soon sound asleep. 
 
 We rose early next morning, and as we were 
 dressing by candle-light we heard the clear, loud 
 laugh of Mr. A-chang, who was already dressed 
 and prepared to conduct us to the glen below the 
 falls. After passing the compliments of the morn- 
 ing, he begged a cigar to smoke as we went along. 
 Leaving the falls on our right hand, we crossed 
 the ridge of hills at the end of the glen and 
 descended on the opposite side. When we neared 
 the bottom we obtained a fine view of the falls in 
 all their grandeur. The rocks over which the 
 water came seemed so precipitous that it scarcely 
 touched them until it nearly reached the bottom, 
 some three or four hundred feet below. As we 
 
184 MR. A-CHANG’S GENERAL KNOWLEDGE. Chap. IX. 
 
 wandered down the glen, by a little mountain 
 road which ran parallel with the stream, we 
 obtained an excellent view of the rugged and 
 perpendicular cliffs above us. I thought I could 
 discern points of connexion between the two sides 
 of the glen, which proved it to have been formed 
 by some earthquake, or other convulsion of na- 
 ture, out of a mountain which had been thus rent 
 asunder. 
 
 Our guide now astonished us by coming out in 
 a new character. Seeing me pay some attention 
 to the botany of the district, he immediately 
 began to give me a lecture upon the uses of the 
 various trees and herbs we met with. “ This,” 
 said he, “ is the Tung-oil tree, which yields a valu- 
 able oil, much used by carpenters ; this is the 
 Lew-san tree ( Cryptomeria Japonica ), valued for 
 its ornamental appearance and fine timber.” See- 
 ing a fine species of gentian in full bloom, I asked 
 him whether it was of any value. “ Oh, yes,” he 
 replied, “it is a valuable medical plant, and is 
 used by the doctors — it is an excellent stomachic.” 
 And so on he went, explaining to us the uses of 
 almost every plant we met with on the roadside 
 as we went along. “ You are a very wise man, 
 you seem to know everything,” said I to him, — 
 and I was quite in earnest, and intended this for 
 no unmeaning compliment. The old man smiled ; 
 he was evidently much pleased, and replied, “ I 
 also understand Fung-shwuy (soothsaying) ; I can 
 tell the proper positions for graves — see, here is 
 
Chap. IX. 
 
 HIS LECTUKE. 
 
 185 
 
 the compass I employ to find the proper direc- 
 tion.” As he said this, he took out of his pocket 
 a mariner’s compass, and put it into my hand. 
 He then offered to give me a lesson on his art, 
 for which I expressed my gratitude, — and he be- 
 gan in the following way. “ This spot,” said he, 
 “ which you see formed out of the hill-side, and 
 on which some Indian corn has been growing 
 during the past summer, has been selected for a 
 grave.” “ And why has this particular spot been 
 selected,” I asked ; “ what are its peculiar merits ? ” 
 “ Look around you,” said he ; “ look at the beau- 
 tiful hills on your right hand and on your left ; 
 see the falls in the distance, and the little stream 
 winding quietly down the glen below ; change 
 the scene, and carry your eyes to the far-off hills 
 in front of you, where another stream is flowing 
 towards us and joining that which has left the 
 falls ; look at the green fields on its banks and the 
 richly-wooded, undulating hills behind ; look at 
 all these, and then you will answer your own 
 question.” It was, indeed, a lovely spot, and one 
 which did not require the eloquence of Mr. 
 A-chang to make me feel that it was so. On our 
 way up the hill we came to another place, which 
 at first sight appeared equally beautiful ; I called 
 his attention to this, and asked him whether it 
 was not quite equal to the last. “ Oh, no,” he 
 said : “ look behind you ; don’t you see that furrow 
 in the hill which would bring the water down 
 upon the grave ? No, no ; this place is very 
 
186 
 
 VOLUNTARY CONFINEMENT 
 
 Chap. IX. 
 
 well for a rice-field, but it will not answer for 
 a tomb.” 
 
 Much pleased with our descent into the glen 
 below tbe falls, we now returned to tbe temple 
 to make preparations for resuming our journey. 
 While breakfast was getting ready, I paid a visit 
 to tbe Superior, or High Priest, who bad been dis- 
 covered in a small room or kind of cell by one of 
 our party tbe evening before. He was in volun- 
 tary confinement, and bad been in this place for 
 nearly three years. Tbe door of the cell was pad- 
 locked on tbe outside, and be received bis food 
 and was communicated with through a bole in tbe 
 wall. He seemed a respectable-looking, middle- 
 aged man, rather corpulent for a Buddhist priest, 
 and bis confinement did not seem to disagree with 
 him. He informed me tbe time of his voluntary 
 penance would expire in tbe third month of tbe 
 following year, and then be would leave bis cell 
 and return again to tbe world. I believe such 
 examples of voluntary penance are not unusual 
 amongst tbe Buddhist priesthood. I saw another 
 in tbe old temple of Tein-tung ; be was a native 
 of Hang-cbow-foo, tbe capital city of tbe province. 
 He told me be bad already spent nine years of bis 
 life in voluntary seclusion,' — that is, be bad been 
 shut up three times, and for three years each time. 
 When I made bis acquaintance be was under- 
 going bis fourth three years. This man was a 
 very superior specimen of the Buddhist priesthood, 
 open and frank in bis manners, and was much 
 
Chap. IX. 
 
 OF BUDDHIST PRIESTS. 
 
 187 
 
 more intelligent than these persons generally are. 
 However much deluded I considered him, I was 
 inclined to believe him sincere. 
 
 These recluses are supposed to spend their 
 whole time in prayer, in reading Buddhist books, 
 and in repeating the name of Buddha over and 
 over again continually. A small lamp burns day 
 and night in their cells, and the listener hears the 
 low and monotonous sound of Ameda Buddha, or 
 Nae-mo-o-me-to-fa ; and if he looks in upon them 
 through the little aperture in the wall which is 
 used for passing in their food, he will see them 
 either counting their beads as an accompaniment 
 to their devotions, or prostrating themselves before 
 a little altar in the cell. 
 
 When a number of these priests are shut up in 
 one cell, it is said that prayer to Buddha, or the 
 repetition of his name, never ceases day nor night. 
 When some become weary and feel the want of 
 sleep, others take their places, and so the work 
 goes continually on and on, until the three years 
 have expired, when the holy men come out again 
 to mix with the world. 
 
 Before leaving the temple our party went in a 
 body to the window of the high-priest’s cell to 
 thank him for the shelter we had received during 
 the night, and to leave him a small present for the 
 kindness. He seemed much gratified with our 
 attention, and we parted the best of friends, and 
 with a kind invitation to renew our visit in the 
 following year. 
 
188 
 
 JOURNEY ACROSS MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Chap. IX. 
 
 Our beds and the few necessaries we had brought 
 with us being packed up, we loaded our coolies 
 and bade adieu to the temple of the Snowy Yalley. 
 I have already stated that the valley is estimated 
 at about 2000 feet above the level of the sea. 
 Leaving it by a narrow road on its northern side, 
 we began to ascend another pass, which led us 
 nearly up to the top of the highest mountain-range, 
 and which cannot be less than 3000 feet in height. 
 For several miles our view was entirely bounded 
 on all sides by hills varying in height and form. 
 Every now and then our road led us down into a 
 narrow valley, out of which we had to climb again 
 to the top of another hill of the same elevation as 
 the preceding. 
 
 These mountains were but thinly populated ; 
 but wherever the soil was at all fertile we found 
 little clusters of farm-houses, whose inhabitants 
 seemed much surprised at our appearance as we 
 passed along. With their wonted politeness and 
 hospitality, they pressed us to enter their houses 
 and partake of the only beverage they had to offer 
 us, which was tea. The tea-bushes were noticed 
 growing plentifully on many of the hill-sides ; but 
 the produce in this part of the country is entirely 
 used by the natives themselves, and not made up 
 for the foreign market. Wheat and barley, with 
 various other green crops, are cultivated in winter 
 and reaped in spring or during the early summer 
 months. The summer crops consist of sweet pota- 
 toes, two kinds of millet, one of buckwheat, and 
 
Chap. IX. 
 
 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 189 
 
 an excellent variety of Indian corn. A small 
 quantity of rice is also grown in the valleys ; but 
 the land capable of producing the crop is not very 
 extensive. 
 
 Many of these hills are well wooded. I re- 
 marked as we went along good forests of Chinese 
 pine {Pinus sinensis), the Japan cedar ( Cryptomeria 
 Japonica), and the lance-leaved fir ( Cunninghamia 
 lanceolata). The forests of the Japan cedar and 
 the lance-leaved pine were extremely picturesque 
 and beautiful. The trees generally were young 
 and not remarkable for size, but were growing 
 vigorously, and likely, if allowed to stand for a few 
 years, to make valuable timber. In addition to 
 this consideration, there were a symmetry and 
 grace in the general appearance of these forests 
 which one rarely sees in temperate climates, if we 
 except perhaps the Himalaya mountains. The 
 hemp-palm ( Chamcerops sp .) — a tree of great 
 importance to the Chinese in a commercial point 
 of view, on account of the sheets of fibre which it 
 produces yearly on its stem — also occupied a 
 prominent place on the sides of these mountains ; 
 and the graceful mow-cliok — - the most beautiful 
 bamboo in the world — was grouped about in wild 
 profusion. 
 
 This bamboo I have never met in any other 
 part of the world. In the central and eastern 
 provinces of China it is largely cultivated, par- 
 ticularly on the sides of mountains where the soil 
 is rich, and in the vicinity of temples and other 
 
190 
 
 BAMBOOS. 
 
 Chap. IX. 
 
 monastic buildings. Its stems are straight, smooth, 
 and clean, the joints are small, it grows to the 
 height of from sixty to eighty feet. Twenty or 
 thirty feet of the lower part of its stem are 
 generally free from branches. These are produced 
 on the upper portion of the tree, and then they 
 are so light and feathery that they do not affect 
 the cleanness of the main stem. In addition, there- 
 fore, to the highly picturesque effect it produces 
 upon the landscape, it is of great value in the arts, 
 owing to the smoothness and fineness of its struc- 
 ture. It is used in the making of sieves for the 
 manipulation of tea, rolling-tables for the same 
 purpose, baskets of all kinds, ornamental inlaid 
 works, and for hundreds of other purposes, for 
 which the bamboo found in India is wholly un- 
 suitable. 
 
 Like all other species of the same tribe, it grows 
 with, great rapidity and perfects its growth in 
 a few months. To use a common expression, “ one 
 could almost see it growing.” I was in the habit 
 of measuring the daily growth in the Chinese 
 woods, and found that a healthy plant generally 
 grew about two feet or two feet and a half in the 
 twenty-four hours, and the greatest rate of growth 
 was during the night. 
 
 The young shoots just as they peep out of the 
 ground are highly esteemed as food, and are taken 
 to the markets in large quantities. I was in the 
 habit of using them as a vegetable every day 
 during the season, and latterly was as fond of 
 
Chap. IX. 
 
 BAMBOOS. 
 
 191 
 
 them as the Chinese are themselves. Sometimes 
 I had them split up, boiled, and dished by them- 
 selves ; at other times they were used in soup, like 
 cabbage ; and on one occasion Mr. Forbes, the 
 American consul in China, to whom I recom- 
 mended them, taught me to make an excellent 
 omelette, in which they formed one of the in- 
 gredients. 
 
 In the south of China, that is about Hongkong 
 and Canton, several kinds of the bamboo are very 
 common. There is a yellow variety with beautiful 
 green stripes, painted on its stems as if done by the 
 hand of a most delicate artist. But all these kinds 
 resemble the Indian varieties, — that is, they grow 
 in dense bushes, their stems are not remarkable for 
 their straightness, and the large joints and branches, 
 which are produced on all parts of the stem, give 
 it a rough surface, and consequently render it 
 unsuitable for fine work. 
 
 These tropical, jungley-looking bamboos dis- 
 appear as we go to the more northern latitudes ; 
 and in their places we have the mow-chok, already 
 mentioned, the long-sin-chok , the hoo-chok, and one 
 or two others, all with clean stems and feathery 
 branches, suited for the most delicate kinds of 
 work, and all “good for food.” These trees are 
 well worth the attention of people who inhabit 
 temperate climates, such as the south of France, 
 Italy, and other parts of the south of Europe. 
 No doubt they would be well worth introduction 
 to some parts of Australia, New Zealand, and the 
 
192 
 
 THE RUELLIA. 
 
 Chap. IX. 
 
 southern portions of the United States of America. 
 In the province of Chekiang the maximum sum- 
 mer heat is from 90° to 100° in the shade, but 
 only a few days in the months of July and August 
 so high ; in winter the thermometer (Fahr.) is 
 rarely so low as 20°. Those interested in this 
 matter may consult my ‘Wanderings in China,’ 
 and ‘ Journey to the Tea Countries,’ for fuller 
 accounts of the climate of this part of China. With 
 regard to soil and situation, it should be remarked 
 that these trees invariably grow in a rich yellow 
 loam on the slopes of the hills. 
 
 I have succeeded in introducing the mow-chok 
 to India, and at no very distant day it may be 
 seen flourishing on the slopes of the Himalaya in 
 the north-western provinces, where the bamboos 
 are very inferior. Several plants were also sent 
 to the Agricultural and Horticultural Society of 
 India, and reached Calcutta in good condition. 
 
 Amongst the other productions of these high- 
 land valleys, the ruettia, formerly noticed, is cul- 
 tivated extensively for the blue dye which it affords. 
 During the season of its preparation every moun- 
 tain-stream is coloured and polluted with the 
 refuse liquid drawn off from the tanks, and the 
 stench which fills the air is almost unendurable. 
 
 We travelled about thirty le — eight or ten miles 
 — across these mountains, which brought us to a 
 little village named Le-tsun, where large quantities 
 of the blue dye just noticed are grown and manu- 
 factured. This little highland village is situated 
 
Chap. IX. 
 
 ROMANTIC GLEN. 
 
 193 
 
 at the head of a glen which opens by various 
 windings to the plain of Ningpo. As we had 
 other thirty le to go before we reached our boats, 
 we rested ourselves in an old joss-house in order to 
 allow our baggage to come up with us. Here the 
 natives crowded round us in hundreds, evidently 
 delighted to get a view of the far-famed Hong- 
 mou-jins — the “ red-haired men,”-— of whom they 
 had often heard, but rarely if ever seen. We 
 treated them with great kindness, and, I think, 
 left a good impression upon their minds, which 
 may be of use to future tourists in these moun- 
 tains. 
 
 As we had now no more hills to cross, and as 
 the road was good, we got into our mountain 
 bamboo chairs and took our way down the glen 
 towards the plains. The scenery in this glen is 
 more strikingly beautiful than that in any part of 
 the province which has come under my observa- 
 tion, and reminded me forcibly of what I had seen 
 when crossing the Bohea Mountains. High hills 
 rose on each side of us densely covered with the 
 Japan cedar, weeping junipers, and pines ; behind, 
 our view was bounded by high mountains, while 
 in front we got now and then glimpses of an 
 extensive fertile plain, richly wooded near the 
 base of the hills, in a high state of cultivation, and 
 teeming with an industrious and happy people. 
 
 We arrived just before dark at Ning-kang-jou, 
 a small town near one of the sources of the Ningpo 
 river, where our boats were waiting us. Here we 
 
194 
 
 FAREWELL TO MR. A-CHANG. 
 
 Chap. IX. 
 
 found our old friend Mr. A-clmng, who had reached 
 the boats some few minutes before us. We invited 
 him to dine with us again ; and before he left us 
 we presented him with an English umbrella, a 
 pencil-case, and some few articles of foreign manu- 
 facture which we knew had taken his fancy, and 
 with which he was highly delighted. With a kind 
 invitation to visit him at his little temple, should 
 we ever again come that way, he bade us a hearty 
 farewell. 
 
Chap. X. 
 
 COLLECTIONS SHIPPED FOR INDIA. 
 
 ID5 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Collections shipped for India — Success attending this year’s importa- 
 tions — Visit Canton — Method of scenting teas described — Flowers 
 used in the operation — Their scientific and Chinese names — Their 
 relative value — Prices paid for them — Manufacture of “caper” 
 described — Inferior ditto — “ Lie capers ” — Orange pekoe — Higli 
 character of foreign merchants in China — Howqua’s garden de- 
 scribed — Its plants, ornamental doors, and alcoves, &c. — Polite 
 notices to visitors worthy of imitation. 
 
 The various collections I had made during the 
 summer and autumn had been left, from time to 
 time as they were formed, in the charge of Chi- 
 nese friends in various parts of the country. Mr. 
 Meadows, of the British consulate in Ningpo, and 
 Mr. Wadman, a merchant there, had also taken 
 charge of some plants which I had planted for 
 safety in their gardens. It was now of great im- 
 portance to get all these collections together as 
 speedily as possible, and have them conveyed to 
 the port of Shanghae, where they could be packed 
 in a proper manner and shipped to Hongkong, 
 and from thence to India. This was satisfactorily 
 accomplished, and, being luckily favoured with fine 
 weather and a leading wind, I reached Shanghae 
 in two days, and deposed my collections safely 
 in the garden of Mr. Beale. A large number of 
 Ward’s cases, having been ordered some time be- 
 
 p 
 
196 
 
 COLLECTIONS SHIPPED FOR INDIA. Chap. X. 
 
 fore, were now ready. These were now filled with 
 earth, and all the plants carefully planted ; at the 
 same time large quantities of tea-seed, chesnuts, 
 and other things of that nature were sown in the 
 soil and left to germinate on the voyage to India. 
 My other collections of the seeds of useful and 
 ornamental trees and shrubs were well dried and 
 packed in a common wooden box. 
 
 It is very rare that there is a vessel from 
 Shanghae direct for Calcutta, and consequently all 
 these things had to he transshipped at Hongkong. 
 Living plants are not like bales of merchandize ; 
 they are easily destroyed by the admission of salt 
 water or salt air, and are more likely to be dam- 
 aged while undergoing transshipment than during 
 a long voyage at sea. As on former occasions, I 
 determined to accompany my collections to Hong- 
 kong, and look after the transshipment myself. 
 The formation of this collection had cost me much 
 labour and care ; the unsettled condition of the 
 country rendered it extremely doubtful that I 
 should be equally successful in the following sea- 
 son ; and it was therefore an object of the first 
 importance to endeavour by every means in my 
 power to ensure the safety of that now in hand. 
 
 Everything went according to my wishes ; 
 Hongkong was reached in safety, the collections 
 were sent on to Calcutta in four different ships, 
 and a few months afterwards I had the very great 
 satisfaction to hear that the whole had arrived at 
 their destination in excellent condition. No fewer 
 
Chap. X. 
 
 VISIT TO CANTON. 
 
 197 
 
 than 23,892 tea-plants, upwards of 300 chesnut- 
 trees, and a large quantity of other things of great 
 value in India, now growing on the Himalayas, 
 were the results of this year’s labours. The rice- 
 paper plant ( Aralia papyrifera) presented to me 
 by J. C. Bowring, Esq., of Hongkong, was also 
 introduced to India, and is now a remarkable 
 object of great interest in the Calcutta gardens. 
 
 When the various consignments had been de- 
 spatched, I went up to Canton for a few days 
 before proceeding again to the north, in order if 
 possible to get some reliable information as to the 
 mode of scenting tea, which is only understood 
 and practised at this port with teas destined for 
 the foreign markets. I had been making inquiries 
 for some time past, both of foreigners and Chinese, 
 about this curious process carried on so extensively 
 at Canton ; but the answers and descriptions I re- 
 ceived to my questions were so unsatisfactory, that 
 I gave up all hopes of understanding the process 
 until I had an opportunity of seeing and judging 
 for myself. When I reached Canton I was in- 
 formed the whole process might be seen any day 
 at that season in full operation in a tea-factory on 
 the island of Honan. Messrs. Walkinshaw and 
 Thorburn, two gentlemen well acquainted with 
 the various kinds of teas sent annually to Europe 
 and America, consented to accompany me to this 
 factory, and we took with us the Chinese merchant 
 to whom the place belonged. I was thus placed 
 in a most favourable condition for obtaining a 
 
 p 2 
 
198 
 
 A TEA-FACTORY. 
 
 Chap. X. 
 
 correct knowledge of this most curious subject. 
 When we entered the tea-factory a strange scene 
 was presented to our view. The place was crowded 
 with women and children, all busily engaged in 
 picking the stalks and yellow or brown leaves out 
 of the black tea. For this labour each was paid 
 at the rate of six cash a catty, and earned on an 
 average about sixty cash a day, — a sum equal to 
 about threepence of our money. The scene alto- 
 gether was not unlike that in the great Govern- 
 ment Cigar Manufactory at Manilla. Men were 
 employed giving out the tea in its rough state, 
 and in receiving it again when picked. With each 
 portion of tea a wooden ticket was also given, 
 which ticket had to he returned along with the 
 tea. In the northern tea-countries the leaves are 
 carefully weighed when they are given out and 
 when they are brought hack, in order to check 
 peculation, which is not unfrequent. I did not 
 observe this precaution taken at Canton. Besides 
 the men who were thus employed, there were many 
 others busily at work, passing the tea through 
 various sized sieves, in order to get out the caper, 
 and to separate the various kinds. This was also 
 partly done by a winnowing machine, similar in 
 construction to that used by our farmers in Eng- 
 land. Having taken a passing glance at all these 
 objects on entering the building, I next directed 
 my attention to the scenting process, which had 
 been the main object of my visit,- — and which I 
 shall now endeavour to describe. 
 
Chap. X. 
 
 SCENTING TEAS. 
 
 199 
 
 In a corner of the building there lay a large 
 heap of orange-flowers, which filled the air with 
 the most delicious perfume. A man was engaged 
 in sifting them to get out the stamens and other 
 smaller portions of the flower. This process was 
 necessary, in order that the flowers might be 
 readily sifted out of the tea after the scenting had 
 been accomplished. The orange-flowers being fully 
 expanded, the large petals were easily separated 
 from the stamens and smaller ones. In 100 parts 
 70 per cent, were used and 30 thrown away. 
 When the orange is used, its flowers must be fully 
 expanded, in order to bring out the scent ; but 
 flowers of jasmine may be used in the bud, as they 
 will expand and emit their fragrance during the 
 time they are mixed with the tea. When the 
 flowers had been sifted over in the manner de- 
 scribed they were ready for use. In the mean time 
 the tea to be scented had been carefully manipu- 
 lated, and appeared perfectly dried and finished. 
 At this stage of the process it is worthy of observ- 
 ing that, while the tea was perfectly dry, the orange- 
 flowers were just as they had been gathered from the 
 trees. Large quantities of the tea were now mixed 
 up with the flowers, in the proportion of 40 lbs. of 
 flowers to 100 lbs. of tea. This dry tea and the 
 undried flowers were allowed to lie mixed together 
 for the space of twenty-four hours. At the end 
 of this time the flowers were sifted out of the tea, 
 and by the repeated sifting and winnowing pro- 
 cesses which the tea had afterwards to undergo 
 
200 
 
 SCENTING TEAS. 
 
 Chap. X. 
 
 they were nearly all got rid of. Sometimes a few 
 stray ones are left in the tea, and may be detected 
 even after it arrives in England. A small portion 
 of tea adheres to the moist flowers when they are 
 sifted out, and this is generally given away to the 
 poor, who pick it out with the hand. 
 
 The flowers, at this part of the process, had im- 
 pregnated the tea-leaves with a large portion of 
 their peculiar odours, but they had also left behind 
 them a certain portion of moisture, which it was 
 necessary to expel. This was done by placing the 
 tea once more over slow charcoal-fires in baskets 
 and sieves prepared for the purpose of drying. 
 The scent communicated by the flowers is very 
 slight for some time, but, like the fragrance peculiar 
 to the tea-leaf itself, comes out after being packed 
 for a week or two. Sometimes this scenting pro- 
 cess is repeated when the odour is not considered 
 sufficiently strong ; and the head man in the fac- 
 tory informed me he sometimes scented twice with 
 orange-flowers and once with the “Mo-le” ( Jas - 
 minum Sambac). 
 
 The flowers of various plants are used in scent- 
 ing by the Chinese, some of which are considered 
 better than others, and some can be had at seasons 
 when others are not procurable. I considered 
 it of some importance to the elucidation of this 
 subject to find out not only the Chinese names of 
 these various plants, but also, by examining the 
 plants themselves, to be able to give each the 
 name by which it is known to scientific men in all 
 
Chap. X. 
 
 SCENTING TEAS. 
 
 201 
 
 parts of the world. The following list was pre- 
 pared with great care, and may he fully relied 
 upon. The numbers prefixed express the relative 
 value of each kind in the eyes of the Chinese, and 
 the asterisks point out those which are mostly used 
 for scenting teas for the foreign markets in the 
 order in which they are valued ; thus the “ Mode ” 
 and the “ Sieu-hing” are considered the best, and 
 so on : — 
 
 1. Rose, scented (Tsing moi-qui-hwa). 
 
 1 or 2. Plum, double (Moi-hwa). 
 
 2*. Jasminum Sambac (Mo-le-hwa). 
 
 2 or 3*. Jasminum paniculatum (Sieu-hing-hwa). 
 
 4*. Aglaia odorata (Lan-lrwa, or Yu-chu-lan). 
 
 5. Olea fragrans (Kwei-kwa). 
 
 6*. Orange (Chang-hwa). 
 
 7*. Gardenia florida (Pak-sema-bwa). 
 
 It has been frequently stated that the Chloran- 
 thus is largely used. This appears to be a mistake, 
 originating, no doubt, in the similarity of its Chi- 
 nese name to that of Aglaia odorata. The Chlo- 
 ranthus is called “ Chu-lan,” the Aglaia “ Lan ” or 
 “ Yu-chu-lan.” 
 
 The different flowers which I have just named 
 are not all used in the same proportions. Thus, of 
 orange-flowers there are 40 lbs. to 100 lbs. of tea; 
 of Aglaia there are 100 lbs. to 100 lbs. ; and of 
 Jasminum Sambac there are 50 lbs. to 100 lbs. 
 The flowers of the Sieu-hing ( Jasminum panicu- 
 latum ) are generally mixed with those of the 
 Mo-le ( Jasminum Sambac), in the proportion of 
 10 lbs. of the former to 30 lbs. of the latter, and 
 the 40 lbs. thus produced are sufficient for 100 lbs. 
 
202 
 
 SCENTING TEAS. 
 
 Chap. X. 
 
 of tea. The “Kweihwa” (0/m fragrans ) is used 
 chiefly in the northern districts as a scent for a 
 rare and expensive kind of Hyson Pekoe — a tea 
 which forms a most delicious and refreshing be- 
 verage when taken a la Chinoise without sugar 
 and milk. The quantity of flowers used seemed 
 to me to be very large ; and I made particular 
 inquiries as to whether the teas that are scented 
 were mixed up with large quantities of unscented 
 kinds. The Chinese unhesitatingly affirmed that 
 such was not the case ; but, notwithstanding their 
 assertions, I had some doubt on this point. 
 
 The length of time which teas thus scented 
 retain the scent is most remarkable. It varies, 
 however, with the different sorts. Thus, the Olea 
 fragrans tea will only keep well for one year ; at 
 the end of two years it has either become scent- 
 less, or has a peculiar oily odour which is dis- 
 agreeable. Teas scented with orange-blossoms and 
 with those of the Mo-le will keep well for two or 
 three years, and the Sieu-hing kinds for three or 
 four years. The Aglaia retains the scent longer 
 than any, and is said to preserve well for five or 
 six years. The tea scented with the Sieu-hing is 
 said to be most esteemed by foreigners, although 
 it is put down as second or third rate by the 
 Chinese. 
 
 Scented teas for the foreign market are nearly 
 all made in Canton, and are known to merchants 
 by the names of “ Scented Orange Pekoe,” and 
 “ Scented Caper." They are grown in and near 
 
Chap. X. 
 
 SCENTING TEAS. 
 
 203 
 
 a place called Tai-shan, in the Canton province. 
 Mr. Walkinshaw informs me that other descrip- 
 tions of tea, both black and green, have been 
 scented for the English market, but have been 
 found unsuitable. True “ caper ” is to black tea 
 what the kinds called “ imperial ” and “ gun- 
 powder ” are to green : it assumes a round, shot- 
 looking form during the process of manipulation, 
 and it is easily separated from the other leaves by 
 sifting or by the winnowing liiachine. It is a 
 common error to suppose that “ imperial” or 
 “gunpowder” amongst green teas, or “caper” 
 amongst black ones, is prepared by rolling each 
 leaf singly by the hand. Such a method of mani- 
 pulation would make them much more expensive 
 than they are. One gathering of tea is said to 
 yield 70 per cent, of orange pekoe, 25 of souchong, 
 and 5 of caper. The quantity of true caper would 
 therefore appear to be very small ; but there are 
 many ways of increasing the quantity by peculiar 
 modes of manipulation, as I shall afterwards show. 
 
 In a large factory, such as this at Canton, there 
 is, of course, a considerable quantity of dust and 
 refuse tea remaining after the orange pekoe, caper, 
 and souchong have been sifted out of it. This is 
 sold in the country to the natives at a low price, 
 and no doubt is often made up with paste and 
 other ingredients into those lie teas which nowa- 
 days find a market in England. Nothing is lost 
 or thrown away in China. The stalks and yellow 
 leaves which have been picked out by women and 
 
204 
 
 SCENTING TEAS. 
 
 Chap. X. 
 
 children are sold in the country ; while the flowers 
 which have done their duty in the scenting pro- 
 cess are given to the poor, who pick out the few 
 remaining tea-leaves which had been left by the 
 sieve or winnowing machine. Some flowers, such 
 as those of the Aglaia for example, after being 
 sifted out from the tea are dried and used in 
 the manufacture of the fragrant “ joss-stick,” so 
 much used in the religious ceremonies of the 
 country. 
 
 It appears from these investigations that many 
 kinds of fragrant flowers besides those used by the 
 Chinese would answer the purpose equally well, 
 and therefore in places like India, where tea is 
 likely to be produced upon an extensive scale, ex- 
 periments in scenting might be made with any 
 kinds of fragrant jasmines, daphnes, aurantiaceous 
 or other plants of a like kind indigenous to the 
 country. 
 
 It will be observed from the description just 
 given that the method of scenting teas, like most 
 of the arts in China, is exceedingly simple in its 
 nature and most efficient. It used to be said by 
 those who knew nothing about the matter, that 
 “ the flowers were put over a slow fire, with the 
 tea in a separate basket above them, and so the 
 fire drove the scent from the flowers into the tea ” ! 
 Knowing the immense capacity which dry tea has 
 for moisture of any kind, how much more simple 
 and beautiful is the process of allowing it to lie 
 for a space of time mixed up with undried flowers ! 
 
Chap. X. 
 
 SCENTING TEAS. 
 
 205 
 
 A few years ago I published a description of 
 the Chinese mode of dyeing green teas to suit 
 our depraved tastes in Europe, and particularly 
 in America, where they are largely consumed. 
 Scenting teas is a very different thing, and no- 
 thing can be urged against the taste for them. 
 That this is so in the eyes of the Chinese 
 may be gathered from the fact that, while they 
 dye their teas, not to drink, but only to sell, they 
 consume and highly appreciate these scented ones. 
 
 The price paid for flowers used in the scenting 
 process varies, like everything else, according to 
 the demand or supply in the market. In 1854 
 and 1855 it was about seventeen dollars per pecul,* 
 but sometimes as much as thirty dollars are paid 
 for the same quantity. In former years — ten or 
 twelve years ago— as much as sixty dollars per 
 pecul used to be paid for flowers. This informa- 
 tion was given me some time after I had been 
 examining the method of scenting in the Honan 
 factory, and by another manufacturer, and con- 
 firmed me in the opinion I had then formed, 
 namely, that after the tea is once scented with 
 the proportions of flowers mentioned above, it is 
 mixed up with large quantities of unscented tea. 
 Were this not so, the large quantity of flowers 
 used would render the tea much more expensive 
 than it really is. Upon making further inquiries, 
 of different individuals and at different times, I 
 found that my surmises were correct. The results 
 
 * 133^ lbs. 
 
200 
 
 SCENTING TEAS. 
 
 Chap. X. 
 
 of the information thus obtained were, that sixty 
 pounds of this highly-scented mixture were capable 
 of scenting one hundred pounds of unscented tea, 
 and no doubt it is sometimes used in even smaller 
 proportions. 
 
 In all investigations of this nature one is very 
 apt to be misled by the Chinese ; not, perhaps, 
 so much intentionally as from ignorance or care- 
 lessness as to whether the information given be 
 correct or otherwise. And having once made an 
 assertion, a Chinese does not like to confess him- 
 self mistaken or in the wrong; but this propen- 
 sity is not confined to the inhabitants of the 
 Celestial Empire. Unless one sees a process with 
 his own eyes, he must in all cases use some dis- 
 cretion when he has to take his information at 
 second hand. With ordinary care, however, and 
 a little common sense, the truth may generally be 
 arrived at, even from the Chinese. 
 
 Having satisfied myself as to the mode of 
 scenting teas, I was now anxious to know how 
 the kinds called “ Caper ” and “ Orange Pekoe ” 
 are manufactured, as they are quite different in 
 appearance from teas made in the great black-tea 
 provinces of Fokien and Kiang-si. As large 
 quantities of these teas — indeed, the whole which 
 are exported — are made up near Canton, it was 
 not difficult to find out where some of the factories 
 were situated, or to gain admission to witness the 
 process. M. C. Morrison, Esq., her Majesty’s Vice- 
 Consul at Canton, whose knowledge of the Chi- 
 
Chap. X. 
 
 TEA-HONGS. 
 
 207 
 
 nese language is of a very high order, having 
 expressed a wish to accompany me, we set out 
 together, with a Chinese merchant for our guide. 
 Our guide told us that the manufacture, which 
 was very extensive, was carried on in a great 
 many parts of the suburbs of Canton ; but that 
 the most extensive and best hongs were situated 
 on the island of Honan already mentioned. We 
 crossed the main river in a boat, and then pulled 
 up a canal for a short distance which led through 
 a densely populated suburb. Here we soon found 
 ourselves abreast of a number of large tea-hongs, 
 which our guide informed us were those to which 
 we were bound. These hongs were large and 
 spacious buildings of two stories. The lower 
 portion was filled with tea and implements of 
 
 Tea Picker. Canton. 
 
208 
 
 MANUFACTURE OF “ CAPER.' 
 
 Chap. X. 
 
 manipulation, while the upper was crowded with 
 hundreds of women and children engaged in pick- 
 ing and sorting the various sorts. 
 
 On entering one of these hongs or factories, the 
 first thing to which we directed our attention was 
 the tea which was to be made into “ caper.” I 
 have already stated that this description of tea 
 is produced near a place called Tai-shan, in the 
 Canton province, a few miles inland from the 
 city. Here it undergoes only the first process of 
 manipulation ; that is, it is fired, rolled, and dried, 
 and the colour fixed, but nothing further is done 
 to it. It is then packed up in mat-bags or baskets 
 and sent down to Canton to be made up in the 
 approved manner, and scented for exportation. 
 On examining the tea it presented a very rough 
 appearance, and in the state in which it was, 
 seemed unsuited for the foreign markets. The 
 workmen were busily engaged in remaking it 
 during the time of our visit, and they went to 
 work in the following manner : — 
 
 A convenient quantity— about twenty or thirty 
 pounds — was thrown into the drying-pan, which 
 had been heated for the operation. Here it was 
 sprinkled with a basinful of water, and rapidly 
 turned over with the hands of the workman. The 
 dry leaves immediately imbibed the moisture, and 
 became soft and pliable. This softening process 
 prevented them from breaking down into dust, 
 and fitted them, also, to take any form which was 
 considered desirable by the manipulator. The 
 
Chap. X. 
 
 MANUFACTURE OF “CAPER.' 
 
 209 
 
 water used on this occasion stood in a large basin 
 adjoining the drying-pans, and had a yellow, 
 dirty appearance, which I was rather at a loss 
 to account for. At first sight I thought it was 
 mixed with some ingredient which was intended 
 to give a peculiar tint or colour to the tea ; hut 
 on inquiry it turned out that my conjecture was 
 wrong. Our guide, on being appealed to for 
 information on the subject, coolly informed us that 
 “ there was nothing in the water, it was quite 
 clean, but that the workmen were in the habit of 
 washing their hands in it ! ” 
 
 As soon as the leaves had become softened 
 by the moisture and heat in the pan, they were 
 taken out and put into a strong canvas bag, and 
 twisted firmly into a round form, resembling a 
 football. This hag was then thrown down on the 
 floor, which had been covered with a mat, and a 
 man jumped upon it with both feet, supporting 
 himself at the same time by laying hold of a 
 bamboo pole, which had been erected in a hori- 
 zontal position for the purpose. The heel, sole, 
 and toes of his feet were now kept in perpetual 
 motion in turning and twisting the ball, while the 
 weight of his body compressed it gradually into a 
 smaller size. As the hulk of the ball is thus 
 reduced by pressure, the canvas slackens, and it 
 is necessary for the workman from time to time 
 to jump off it and tighten its mouth by giving it 
 an extra twist with his hands. The balls by this 
 process of rolling and twisting become at last 
 
210 
 
 MANUFACTURE OF “CAPER. 
 
 Chai>. X. 
 
 very hard and solid, and are then thrown on one 
 side, and allowed to lie in this state for several 
 hours : if this work has been done in the evening, 
 they remain all night. By this system of press- 
 ing, twisting, and rolling, the greater portion of 
 the moist leaves take a circular form, which goes 
 on to perfection during the subsequent drying 
 which the leaves have, of course, to undergo, and 
 ends in the production of the round shot-like 
 appearance by which this kind of tea is known. 
 
 It is a most curious sight to a stranger who sees 
 the mode of making this tea for the first time. A 
 whole row of these men, nearly naked when the 
 weather is warm, each with a large ball under his 
 feet, which he is twisting and rolling with all his 
 might, is so unexpected a sight in tea-making. 
 The clever sketch (. Frontispiece ) by my friend Mr. 
 Scarth gives a good idea of this curious process. 
 
 The best kind of “ caper ” takes the round form 
 naturally during the manufacture of souchong or 
 congou ; but, as I have already mentioned, only 
 a very small quantity — about five per cent. — 
 could be procured in this way. By far the 
 greatest portion of the caper exported is manu- 
 factured in the manner I have just described. 
 
 But as I am letting out all the secrets of tea- 
 manufacture, I may just as well notice another 
 mode of making “ caper,” which is scarcely as 
 legitimate as the former. In one corner of the 
 factory we observed a quantity of tea, exceedingly 
 coarse in quality, — in fact, the refuse of that which 
 
Chap. X. 
 
 MANUFACTURE OF “ CAPER/ 
 
 211 
 
 we had been examining. All the art of the mani- 
 pulator, in so far as heating, and pressing, and 
 rolling in the usual way, was not equal to make 
 a good-looking “ caper ” out of this. The leaves 
 were too old, too large and coarse in their present 
 state. But, although there might he some difficulty, 
 even to a Chinese, in making small leaves into 
 large ones, there was none whatever in making 
 large leaves small ; and their mode of doing this 
 was as follows : — These coarse leaves were first 
 of all heated and moistened as the others had 
 been, in order to make them soft and pliable. 
 They were then thrown into square boxes and 
 chopped up for some time, until the size of the 
 leaves was reduced. When this was accomplished 
 to the satisfaction of the operator, they were then 
 made into nice-looking round “ caper,” suitable 
 for the market. 
 
 The origin of the name this tea bears is, no 
 doubt, derived from its resemblance in form to the 
 flower-buds of the caper-bush of the south of 
 Europe. And yet it is rather a curious coinci- 
 dence that the greater part of caper tea finds its 
 market in the Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 It will probably suggest itself to the reader who 
 has paid any attention to tea-making that large 
 quantities of those kinds of green tea known as 
 “ gunpowder ” and “ imperial ” may be manufac- 
 tured in the same way as “ caper,” and this is, no 
 doubt, the case, particularly about Canton. And 
 further, it is the simplest thing in the world to 
 
 Q 
 
212 
 
 ORANGE PEKOE. 
 
 Chap. X. 
 
 convert “ caper ” into “ imperial ” and “ gunpow- 
 der,” and this, too, is often done. Our Chinese 
 guide informed us, with a peculiar grin on his 
 countenance, that, when there is a large demand 
 for green teas, “ caper ” is converted into “ impe- 
 rial ” and “ gunpowder ” by dyeing it with Prus- 
 sian blue and gypsum ! 
 
 The “ orange pekoe ” of commerce, which is 
 produced in the same district as the “caper,” is 
 somewhat like congou in make, but the leaf is 
 much more wiry and twisted, and is of a lighter 
 complexion. The infusion produced by this tea 
 has a yellow or orange tint, and hence the name 
 of orange pekoe which it bears. Like hyson 
 pekoe amongst green teas, this is made from the 
 young leaves soon after they unfold themselves in 
 spring, and hence many of the leaves are covered 
 with white hairs which are formed at this season 
 of the year. These hairy leaves are called “ pekoe 
 ends ” by the trade. A large quantity of this tea 
 is gathered and dried by itself, while another por- 
 tion is taken out of that of which the “ caper ” is 
 ultimately made. 
 
 Canton enjoys the unenviable notoriety of manu- 
 facturing what are commonly called “ lie teas ” 
 or “ lie capers.” These are made out of tea-dust 
 mixed with other rubbish, and which is taken up and 
 held together by a glutinous substance consisting 
 of rice and water. Thin showers of this substance 
 are thrown over the layers of dust, and, as each 
 little globule of the fluid comes in contact with it, 
 
Chap. X. 
 
 “LIE TEAS. 
 
 213 
 
 a certain number of particles adhere, and in the 
 course of time are made into little round balls 
 resembling the caper of commerce. But no one 
 is, or ought to be, deceived by this. Small quan- 
 tities of such teas are, no doubt, exported, but it 
 must be with the knowledge and connivance of 
 the foreigner himself, whom I shall not honour 
 with the title of foreign merchant. And I shall 
 be greatly surprised to find that such a clumsy 
 fraud affects the respectable broker or dealer in 
 Europe or America. 
 
 During a late tour in India I was told on more 
 than one occasion, on the authoritv of “ Old In- 
 
 7 t/ 
 
 dians ” who had been home, that it was next to 
 impossible to get genuine tea in England, now 
 that the East India Company had no control over 
 the China trade ; and that since the demand had 
 so much increased, the Chinese were in the habit 
 of supplying it by substituting the leaves of other 
 trees and shrubs for that which is genuine. 
 
 This idea is simply absurd : as a general rule 
 the Chinese are doing no such thing ; they have 
 plenty of true tea in the country to supply all 
 demands, were they twice as great as they are. 
 And while it may be perfectly true that some 
 unprincipled adventurers encourage the produc- 
 tion of “ lie teas ” by buying them up, the great 
 bulk of the teas exported are unadulterated with 
 other articles. If sloe-leaves and beech-leaves, and 
 other articles of that kind, are found in the tea- 
 pot by the consumer, they are much more likely 
 
 Q 2 
 
214 
 
 HOWQUA’S GARDEN. 
 
 Chap. X. 
 
 to have been manufactured in England than in 
 China. 
 
 The foreign merchants in China as a class are 
 upright and honourable men, and quite incapable 
 of lending themselves to frauds of this description. 
 Besides, every house of any standing has a “ tea- 
 taster ” who has a perfect knowledge of his busi- 
 ness, and who can not only tell true tea from 
 false, but, in most instances, can tell the identical 
 district in which the sample presented to him has 
 been produced. 
 
 As it seems only a step or two from the well- 
 known “ Howqua’s Mixture ” to the less known 
 Howqua’s Garden, I now ask the reader to visit 
 that with me before we leave Canton. 
 
 This garden is situated near the well-known 
 Fa-tee nurseries, a few miles above the city of 
 Canton, and is a place of favourite resort both for 
 Chinese and foreigners who reside in the neigh- 
 bourhood, or who visit this part of the Celestial 
 Empire. I determined on paying it a visit in 
 company with Mr. M‘Donald, who is well known 
 in this part of the world as an excellent Chinese 
 scholar, and to whom I am indebted for some 
 translations of Chinese notices, which appeared 
 very amusing to us at the time, and which, I dare 
 say, will amuse my readers. 
 
 Having reached the door of the garden, we 
 presented the card with which we were provided, 
 and were immediately admitted. The view from 
 the entrance is rather pleasing, and particularly 
 
Chap. X. 
 
 HOWQUA’S GARDEN. 
 
 215 
 
 striking to a stranger who sees it for the first 
 time. Looking “ right ahead,” as sailors say, 
 there is a long and narrow paved walk lined on 
 each side with plants in pots. This view is 
 broken, and apparently lengthened, by means of 
 an octagon arch which is thrown across, and 
 beyond that a kind of alcove covers the pathway. 
 Running parallel with the walk, and on each side 
 behind the plants, are low walls of ornamental 
 brickwork, latticed so that the ponds or small 
 lakes which are on each side can be seen. Alto- 
 gether the octagon arch, the alcove, the pretty 
 ornamental flower-pots, and the water on each 
 side, has a striking effect, and is thoroughly 
 Chinese. 
 
 The plants consist of good specimens of southern 
 Chinese things, all well known in England, such, 
 for example, as Cymbidium sinense, Olea fragrans, 
 oranges, roses, camellias, magnolias, &c., and, of 
 course, a multitude of dwarf trees, without which 
 no Chinese garden would be considered complete. 
 In the alcove alluded to there are some nice stone 
 seats, which look cool in a climate like that of 
 southern China. The floor of this building is 
 raised a few feet above the ground-level, so that 
 the visitor gets a good view of the water and 
 other objects of interest in the garden. That this 
 is a favourite lounge and smoking-place with the 
 Chinese, the following Chinese notice, which we 
 found on one of the pillars, will testify : — “ A 
 caref ul and earnest notice : This garden earnestly 
 
216 
 
 HOWQUA’S GAEDEN. 
 
 Chap. X. 
 
 requests that visitors will spit betle * outside the 
 railing, and knock the ashes of pipes also out- 
 side.” Several fine fruit-trees and others are 
 growing near the walks, and afford shade from 
 the rays of the sun. On one of these we read 
 the following : — “ Ramblers here will be excused 
 plucking the fruit on this tree.” How exceed- 
 ingly polite ! 
 
 Near the centre of the garden stands a sub- 
 stantial summer-house, or hall, named “ the Hall 
 of Fragrant Plants.” The same notice to smokers 
 and cliewers of betle-nut is also put up here ; and 
 there is another and a longer one which I must 
 not forget to quote. It is this : — “ In this garden 
 the plants are intended to delight the eyes of all 
 visitors : a great deal has been expended in plant- 
 ing and in keeping in order, and the garden is 
 now beginning to yield some return. Those who 
 come here to saunter about are earnestly prayed 
 not to pluck the fruit or flowers, in order that 
 the beauty of the place may be preserved.” And 
 then follows a piece of true Chinese politeness — 
 “We beg persons who understand this notice to 
 excuse it ! ” Passing through the Hall of Fra- 
 grant Plants we approached, between two rows of 
 Olea fragrans, a fine ornamental suite of rooms 
 tastefully furnished and decorated, in which visit- 
 ors are received and entertained. An inscription 
 informs us that this is called “ the Fragrant Hall 
 of the Woo-che tree.” Leaving this place by a 
 
 * Botle-nut is much used by the southern Chinese. 
 
Chap. X. 
 
 HOWQUA’S GARDEN. 
 
 217 
 
 narrow door, we observed tlie following notice — 
 “ Saunterers here will be excused entering.” This 
 apparently leads to the private apartments of the 
 family. In this side of the garden there is some 
 fine artificial rockwork, which the Chinese know 
 well how to construct, and various summer-houses 
 tastefully decorated, one of which is called the 
 “ Library of Verdant Purity.” Between this part 
 of the garden and the straight walk already noticed 
 there is a small pond or lake for fish and water- 
 lilies. This is crossed by a zigzag wooden bridge 
 of many arches, which looked rather dilapidated. A 
 very necessary notice was put up here informing 
 “ saunterers to stop their steps in case of accident.” 
 
 On the outskirts of the garden we observed 
 the potting sheds, a nursery for rearing young 
 plants and seeds, and the kitchen garden. Here 
 a natural curiosity was pointed out by one of the 
 Chinese, which, at first sight, appeared singularly 
 curious. Three trees were growing in a row, and 
 at about twenty or thirty feet from the ground 
 the two outer ones had sent out shoots, and fairly 
 united themselves with the centre one. When 
 I mention that the outer trees are the Chinese 
 banyan (Ficus nitida), it will readily be seen how 
 the appearance they presented was produced. The 
 long roots sent down by this species had lovingly 
 embraced the centre tree, and appeared at first 
 sight to have really grafted themselves upon it. 
 
 I am afraid I have given a very imperfect de- 
 scription of this curious garden. Those who know 
 
218 
 
 CHINESE GARDENING. 
 
 Chap. X. 
 
 what a Chinese garden is will understand me well 
 enough, hut it is really difficult tq give a stranger 
 an idea of the Chinese style which I have been 
 endeavouring to describe. In order to understand 
 the Chinese style of gardening it is necessary to 
 dispel from the mind all ideas of fine lawns, broad 
 walks, and extensive views; and to picture in 
 their stead everything on a small scale — that is, 
 narrow paved walks, dwarf walls in all directions, 
 with lattice-work or ornamental opening's in them, 
 in order to give views of the scenery beyond ; 
 halls, summer-houses, and alcoves, ponds or small 
 lakes with zigzag walks over them — in short, an 
 endeavour to make small things appear large, and 
 large things small, and everything Chinese. There 
 are some of these ornaments, however, which I 
 think might be imitated with advantage in our 
 own gardens. Some of the doorways and open- 
 ings in walls seemed extremely pretty. In par- 
 ticular I may notice a wall about ten feet high, 
 having a number of open compartments filled 
 with porcelain rods made to imitate the stems of 
 the bamboo. I shall now close this notice with 
 the modest lines of the Chinese poet, which we 
 found written in the “ Library of Verdant Purity,” 
 and which seemed to be an effort to describe the 
 nature of the garden : — 
 
 “ Some few stems of bamboo-plants 
 A cottage growing round ; 
 
 A few flowers here — some old trees there, 
 
 And a mow * of garden ground.” 
 
 * A mow is about the sixth part of an acre. 
 
Chap. XI. 
 
 VISIT TO FOO-CHOW-FOO. 
 
 219 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Visit tlie port of Foo-chow-foo — Its foreign trade — The advantages 
 and disadvantages of the port — Steamer “Confucius” — Sail for 
 Formosa — An amateur watch kept — Sea-sickness of mandarins — 
 Appearance of Formosa from sea — Land on the island — Rice- 
 paper plant — The natives — Productions of the island — Suggestions 
 to the navy in these seas — Sail for Shanghae — Spring and spring 
 flowers. 
 
 Ix the beginning of March, 1854, having com- 
 pleted my shipments and investigations in the 
 south, I engaged a passage in a schooner and 
 sailed for the port of Foo-chow-foo, the capital 
 city of the province of Fokien, on my way to the 
 more northerly ports of Shanghae and Ningpo. 
 My objects in taking Foo-chow-foo by the way 
 were two-fold. In the first place, I was anxious to 
 make arrangements for getting a large supply of 
 tea-seeds from the best black-tea districts about 
 Woo-e-shan, in the autumn, when they would he 
 ripe ; and secondly, 1 determined to try and pro- 
 cure some black -tea manufacturers from the same 
 districts, through the agency of some influential 
 friends at this port. The great American house 
 of Messrs. Russell and Co., by means of energy 
 and large capital, had opened up a connexion with 
 these districts the year before, and had shipped 
 extensively direct from the river Min to America 
 
220 
 
 FOREIGN TRADE 
 
 Chap. XI. 
 
 the same description of black teas which formerly 
 were carried overland across the Bohea mountains 
 to Shanghae and to Canton. Mr. Cunningham, 
 the head of that house at Shanghae, had promised 
 me his assistance in the kindest manner, and Mr. 
 D. 0. Clark, who was conducting the business at 
 Foo-chow, also entered warmly into my views on 
 my arrival. 
 
 From the opening of Foo-chow in 1843 to the 
 period mentioned, no foreign trade of any import- 
 ance had been carried on at this port. Several 
 merchants had tried it during these ten years ; but 
 as they were men of limited means — not being 
 able to send funds into the country to purchase 
 teas from the manufacturers — their exertions were 
 not attended w T ith success. When the rebels 
 began to disturb and overrun the southern and 
 central districts of the country, and when it 
 seemed doubtful whether the tea-merchants would 
 be able to bring their teas to Canton and Shang- 
 hae as formerly, Messrs. Bussell and Co., with a 
 clear-sightedness which does them the highest 
 credit, foresaw that, owing to the power of the 
 Government at Foo-chow, that port was likely to 
 remain longer open than any of the others ; and 
 as it was no great distance from one great black- 
 tea country — a country which during the days of 
 the East India Company’s charter produced the 
 finest teas exported — they determined to make a 
 vigorous effort to open up the trade. Having 
 Chinese on their establishment whom they could 
 
Chap. XI. 
 
 OF FOO-CHOW-FOO. 
 
 221 
 
 thoroughly trust, these men were intrusted with a 
 large amount of capital, and sent inland to the tea 
 country during the manufacturing season, in order 
 to buy up such teas as they required, and transmit 
 their purchases down the river Min to Foo-chow- 
 foo. In the mean time vessels were chartered to 
 go to the same port to load with such teas and 
 convey them to their destination. 
 
 The system thus planned and carried out met 
 with the most complete success, and I believe 
 Messrs. Russell and Co. reaped the reward to 
 which they were most justly entitled. Other large 
 houses of capital soon followed the example which 
 had been set them, and now a very large export 
 trade in black teas is carried on at Foo-cliow-foo. 
 This is one good result which has arisen out of 
 the rebellion in China, although perhaps it would 
 be difficult to mention another. Had there been 
 no anticipated difficulty in getting down teas to 
 Shanghae and Canton, it is scarcely likely the idea 
 of opening Foo-chow would have occurred to 
 Messrs. Russell and Co. 
 
 But it is doubtful if the advantages of the Foo- 
 chow trade are as great as they would seem to 
 be at first sight. Ho doubt all teas made in the 
 Fokien district, south of the Bohea mountains, and 
 near the source and course of the river Min, can 
 be brought more easily and more cheaply to Foo- 
 chow than to any other port. And moreover, as 
 they come nearly the whole way by water, the 
 chests may be expected to arrive in better order 
 
222 
 
 ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES Chap. XI. 
 
 than when they have to be carried for many miles 
 over mountains on the backs of coolies. And 
 further, the new teas will always arrive very 
 early, if this is an advantage. 
 
 These circumstances will no doubt be perfectly 
 understood by merchants, and it is for them to say 
 whether the disadvantages which I shall now 
 notice are worth taking into consideration. 
 
 1st. The extensive sandbanks at the mouth of 
 the Min, and the rapid currents in the river itself, 
 have been urged by some as fatal objections to its 
 safe navigation. In support of this view it is 
 stated that since the opening of the trade several 
 vessels and cargoes of great value have been com- 
 pletely lost, and insurance offices have been 
 obliged to raise their rates of insurance. 
 
 At first sight this seems a very grave objection ; 
 but were it worth the merchant’s while to conduct 
 a large trade at Foo-chow, the dangers in naviga- 
 tion might be, if not removed entirely, rendered 
 much less than they are, by means of permanent 
 landmarks, buoys, &c. Besides small tug steam- 
 ers would spring up, whose masters would soon 
 gain a knowledge of the different passages, tides, 
 and currents, and be able to take vessels out to or 
 in from sea, in the most perfect safety. It is a 
 disadvantage, no doubt, to have sandbanks, narrow 
 passages, and rapid currents, but in this instance it 
 does not seem to be insuperable. 
 
 2nd. The port of Foo-chow, although nearer to 
 a black-tea district than any of the others open to 
 
Chap. XT. 
 
 OF FOO-CHOW-FOO. 
 
 223 
 
 foreigners, is only nearer to one district — that 
 which I have already noticed as being on the 
 south side of the great Bohea mountain-range. 
 The fine districts in Kiang-se, where the Monings 
 or Ningcliow kinds are produced, are all on the 
 northern side of these mountains, and could be 
 taken more readily south to Canton, over the Meling 
 Pass, or north to Shanghae. In taking them to 
 the latter place, the whole journey, except about 
 twenty miles, is by water. What are called Hoo- 
 pak and Hoonan teas can be brought down the 
 Yang-tse-kiang all the way to Shanghae. And 
 finally, with regard to tea, all the green-tea dis- 
 tricts are much more accessible from Shanghae 
 than from Foo-chow-foo. 
 
 3rd. The country lying between the sea and 
 the great mountain-range in Fokien, in so far as is 
 at present known, has no other articles of export 
 except tea for which there is a demand in Europe 
 and America. 
 
 4th. The river Min has its source amongst 
 rugged and barren mountains, thinly populated : 
 it does not lead into the heart of the empire ; and 
 hence it is doubtful if ever there will be an ex- 
 tensive market for foreign goods, such as there is 
 at Shanghae or Canton. 
 
 Supposing therefore that it is possible to render 
 the navigation of the Min comparatively safe, it 
 appears that the port of Foo-chow has the advan- 
 tage of being nearer one black-tea district than 
 any of the other ports in China open to foreign 
 
224 
 
 FOO-CHO W-FOO AS A TRADING-PORT. Chap. XI. 
 
 trade. But the other kinds of black tea, and all 
 the green ones, can be taken more readily and 
 cheaply to other ports. These other ports have 
 the advantage of other articles of export besides 
 tea. Shanghae, for example, is on the borders of 
 the great Hoo-chow silk country. And lastly, 
 vessels will have to come empty to the Min, owing 
 to the want of a market for imports, while they 
 can go deeply laden, to such ports as Canton and 
 Shanghae, with the manufactures of the west, 
 which can be exchanged for the silk and tea of 
 China. Mo doubt in the course of time arrange- 
 ments can he made with the Chinese merchants 
 to receive foreign goods at certain rates at such 
 places as Shanghae, and to pay for such goods in 
 tea, to be delivered at Foo-chow ; and in this case 
 there is only the disadvantage of an empty vessel 
 having to he sent to that port. 
 
 The advantages and disadvantages of Foo-chow 
 as a great port of trade have thus been fairly 
 stated from an intimate knowledge of the country 
 and its productions, and the merchant is left to 
 draw his own conclusions. My own impression is 
 that it has been rather overrated within the last 
 year or two ; that it is absurd to compare it with 
 Shanghae as a commercial emporium, as some 
 have done ; but that, owing to there being some 
 large and populous cities on the hanks of the Min, 
 such as Foo-chow itself, which is supposed to con- 
 tain nearly half a million of inhabitants, Yen-pin- 
 foo, Kein-ning-foo, &c., a considerable trade may 
 
Chap. XI. 
 
 STATE OF THE COUNTRY. 
 
 225 
 
 ultimately be done in imports for the supply of 
 these places. And teas from the south side of the 
 Bohea mountains can always he brought cheaper, 
 in better condition, and earlier in the season, to 
 Foo-chow, than they can be had at any of the 
 other ports. 
 
 Having completed the arrangement alluded to 
 at the commencement of this chapter, I was 
 anxious to proceed northward to Chekiang and 
 Kiangnan. On making inquiries as to vessels for 
 the northern ports, I found there was nothing of 
 the kind in port except native craft — boats and 
 wood junks-- -which were very unsafe, owing to 
 the hordes of pirates which infested all parts of 
 the coast. Owing to the unsettled state of the 
 country and the weakness of Government at this 
 time, it would .have been an act of madness to 
 have trusted myself in any of these vessels, unless 
 I had been tired of my life, or had had an inclina- 
 tion to spend some months as a prisoner on some 
 piratical island. As I was not weary of life, and 
 had no fancy for the alternative of being impri- 
 soned with thieves and robbers for my companions, 
 I determined not to go to sea in a native vessel. 
 I was strongly urged to this course by all the 
 foreigners in Foo-chow, but they looked to me like 
 “ Job’s comforters,” for one and all were of opinion 
 that it would be necessary for me to return again 
 to Hongkong — a distance of some four hundred 
 miles, which I had just beat up against the mon- 
 soon — before I would be able to get a vessel bound 
 
226 
 
 STEAMER “ CONFUCIUS.' 
 
 Chap. XI. 
 
 for the northern ports. My lucky star, however, 
 happened to he in the ascendant. One fine morn- 
 ing a Portuguese lorcha came into port, bound 
 north to Ningpo, convoying a number of junks to 
 protect them from pirates. As this vessel was 
 heavily armed, I determined to trust myself in her, 
 and had gone on board to look at her accommoda- 
 tions, and to make arrangements about my passage- 
 money. 
 
 “ It never rains but it pours,” says the proverb, 
 which I cannot help thinking is a gross calumny, 
 particularly on those soft spring showers which 
 were at this time (April) falling on the east coast 
 of China. The proverb proved true, however, in 
 a figurative sense, in this instance, for, before I 
 had made arrangements for a passage in the 
 lorcha, the American steamer “ Confucius” made 
 her appearance from Shanghae, and soon came to 
 an anchor amongst the Chinese junks a little 
 below the town. As I suspected the steamer 
 might have been chartered by Messrs. Russell and 
 Co. in Shanghae, to carry some important news, I 
 felt some diffidence in making any inquiries as to 
 her destination. My friend Mr. Clark, however, 
 who knew how anxious I was to get north, men- 
 tioned the circumstance to Captain Dearborn, and 
 that gentleman most kindly came forward and 
 offered me a passage without its having been 
 asked. In the mean time, as there were numerous 
 pirates on the coast, of whom the mandarins them- 
 selves were afraid, the Government chartered the 
 
Crap. XI. 
 
 VOYAGE TO FORMOSA. 
 
 227 
 
 steamer to convey money across to the island of 
 Formosa, where a rebellion was going on, and 
 where it was necessary to have money to carry on 
 the war. I had thus an opportunity of paying a 
 short visit to this beautiful and interesting island. 
 
 When we had taken the boxes of money on 
 board with a guard of mandarins and soldiers, we 
 got up our anchor and steamed down to the 
 mouth of the Min. Our decks were covered with 
 Chinese soldiers, and their baggage, consisting of 
 baskets and trunks of clothes, arms of various 
 kinds, such as bows and arrows, short swords, 
 matchlocks, and bamboo shields ; while mixed up 
 with these in wild confusion were beds and man- 
 darins’ hats, with crystal and white buttons ; 
 there were also various eatables, such as sugar- 
 cane, &c., which the soldiers intended to consume 
 during the voyage. Altogether, the scene thus 
 presented was a striking one, and one which gave 
 an idea of Chinese warlike life, not often presented 
 to the eye of a foreigner. 
 
 When we arrived at the mouth of the Min we 
 anchored for the night, as it was then too late to 
 cross the sandbanks at the entrance. The coast 
 here was swarming with pirates, both on land and 
 at sea ; and although on ordinary occasions a 
 foreign vessel, and particularly a “ fire-ship,” * 
 would have been safe enough, yet loaded as we 
 were with boxes of sycee silver, the temptation to 
 these lawless bands was stronger than usual, and 
 
 * The name given to steamers by the Chinese. 
 
 R 
 
228 
 
 CHINESE PIRATES. 
 
 Chap. XI. 
 
 rendered an attack far from unlikely. And liad 
 such an attack been made by two or three hundred 
 men, armed with stinkpots and other combustibles, 
 which they generally commence with in cases of 
 this nature, the steamer and all its valuable cargo 
 would have been an easy prize, owing to the small 
 number of foreigners on board. If it ever happen 
 that our mandarin passengers, or any of their 
 brave soldiers who were on board at this time, 
 should peruse these lines, I have to beg their 
 pardon, with many low bows, for not taking their 
 valour into consideration. 
 
 In addition to the captain, the engineer, and 
 two or three officers belonging to the steamer, 
 there were several passengers on board who had 
 come down from Shanghae for the purpose of 
 seeing the city of Foo-chow. Captain Dearborn 
 very properly proposed that we should all take a 
 share in the protection of the vessel, and that the 
 best way to prevent an attack was to be prepared 
 for one. The Chinese pirate is somewhat like a 
 tiger in his habits, in so far as foreigners at least 
 are concerned. He knows they will fight and 
 defend themselves — he has had several good 
 lessons on this score — and he will rarely attack 
 them if he sees them prepared ; but if he can 
 catch them asleep, or take them unawares, he will 
 leap upon them at once, and murder all who show 
 the least resistance. 
 
 Knowing these things well, the passengers 
 readily acceded to the proposal which had been 
 
Chap. XI. 
 
 AMATEUR WATCH. 
 
 229 
 
 made by the captain. The night from eight p.m. 
 to four next morning was divided into four watches 
 of two hours each, and as we numbered in all 
 about eight or nine persons, there was enough to 
 have two for each watch. The hours were now 
 written out on small slips of paper, and thrown into 
 a hat to be drawn for in the usual way. 
 
 When eight bells were struck, Captain Dearborn 
 and Mr. Sturges, who were lucky enough to draw 
 from eight to ten, mounted guard, and marched up 
 and down the deck, armed with a pistol, cutlass, 
 and matchlock, and ready to repel boarders and 
 give any alarm if it was necessary. I was unlucky 
 enough to draw the sleepy watch from twelve to 
 two. We reported four bells to the chief officer, 
 struck the intermediate hours, and sung out “ all’s 
 well” in the most approved and seamanlike man- 
 ner. Once or twice during the night it was neces- 
 sary to warn boats to keep off when it was thought 
 they were coming too near, but nothing occurred 
 to create any alarm. Soon after four o’clock 
 Mr. Floud, the engineer, commenced getting his 
 steam up, and the steam-pipe began hissing and 
 snorting and bidding defiance to pirates, however 
 numerous or however bold. 
 
 Leaving the mouth of the river at daylight, we 
 stood out to sea across the channel in the direction 
 of the north-west end of Formosa, to which we 
 were bound. The distance across the channel here 
 is rather more than 100 miles ; and as a stiff 
 breeze was blowing from the north and a heavy 
 
 r 2 
 
230 
 
 SEA-SICKNESS OF MANDARINS. 
 
 Chap. XT. 
 
 sea on, our brave Chinese soldiers were doomed to 
 suffer severely from sea-sickness. Huddled about 
 the decks in every direction, unable to move or to 
 eat, and perfectly indifferent to everybody and 
 everything, they presented a most forlorn and 
 wretched appearance. One old mandarin in par- 
 ticular happened to suffer more than any of the 
 others. He was a stout, fat man, rather red in 
 the face, and evidently accustomed to good living 
 on shore. When we started, he was down in the 
 cabin with the others, laughing and joking in the 
 best of spirits ; but as soon as we crossed the bar 
 and felt a little motion, he began to put on a most 
 serious countenance, and was evidently most un- 
 easy. At last he could stand it no longer, and 
 rushed up the cabin stairs to the deck. Every 
 now and then we heard a loud groan, which told 
 too plainly of the poor man’s sufferings, — suffer- 
 ings, too, for which no one seemed to have any 
 compassion. The next time I saw him he made a 
 faint attempt to smile, but it ended in a kind of 
 shudder as he rushed past me to the side of the 
 vessel. I confess I pitied the poor fellow, and re- 
 commended him to have his bed on deck and to 
 lie down. He took my advice and lay down 
 amongst his retinue, many of whom were nearly 
 as bad as himself, — all distinction for the time 
 being set aside, as they lay on the wet deck of the 
 steamer, with the spray from the ocean dashing 
 over them. 
 
 In the afternoon, shortly after we had lost sight 
 
Chap. XI. 
 
 FORMOSA FROM THE SEA. 
 
 231 
 
 of the shores of China, the high mountains of 
 Formosa came into view. When seen from this 
 position out at sea, the height of the mountains 
 seems greater than that of those in the vicinity of 
 Foo-chow-foo. Judging from the height of moun- 
 tains well known, I imagine those now in view 
 may be from 3000 to 4000 feet above the level 
 of the sea. Some others in the interior of the 
 island are said to be as high as 10,000 feet, but 
 these did not come under our observation. Night 
 came on as we neared the land, and we were told 
 by the pilot that we must anchor until daylight, 
 as he could not undertake to go in during the 
 dark. In the mean time, the wind had died away, 
 the sea was smooth, and all our Chinese friends, 
 the old mandarin included, were on their legs and 
 in the highest spirits, seemingly astonished at the 
 rapidity with which we had crossed the channel. 
 
 Next morning at daylight we entered a river 
 which leads up to an important town called Tam- 
 shuy, and dropped our anchor abreast of a small 
 town near its mouth, amongst numerous other 
 junks and small boats which seemed to be trading 
 between China and Formosa. As soon as we had 
 anchored, the mandarins sent their cards to the 
 officials on shore, and soon afterwards left the 
 vessel themselves, promising to return again to 
 make arrangements for landing the treasure. 
 
 As this was my first visit to this fine island, and 
 as I knew we had only a short time to stay, I lost 
 no time in going on shore. Before leaving the 
 
232 
 
 RIOE-PAPER PLANT. 
 
 Chap. XL 
 
 vessel I had been examining with a spy-glass some 
 large white flowers which grew on the banks and 
 on the hill-sides, and I now went in that direction, 
 in order to ascertain what they were. When 
 I reached the spot where they were growing, they 
 proved to be very fine specimens of Lilinm japoni- 
 cum — the largest and most vigorous I had ever 
 seen. As I was admiring these beautiful lilies, 
 which were growing as wild as the primroses in 
 our woods in England, another plant of far more 
 interest caught my eye. This was nothing less 
 than the rice-paper plant — the species which pro- 
 duced the far-famed rice-paper of China, named by 
 Sir W. Hooker Aralia papyrif era. It was growing 
 apparently wild ; but the site may have been an 
 old plantation, which was now overgrown with 
 weeds and brushwood. The largest specimens 
 which came under my notice were about five or 
 six feet in height, and from six to eight inches in 
 circumference at the base, but nearly of an equal 
 thickness all up the stem. The stems, usually 
 bare all the way up, were crowned at the top with 
 a number of noble-looking palmate leaves, on 
 long footstalks, which gave to the plant a very 
 ornamental appearance. The under side of each 
 leaf, its footstalk, and the top part of the stem, 
 which was clasped by these stalks, was densely 
 covered with down of a rich brown colour, which 
 readily came off upon any substance with which it 
 came in contact. I did not meet with any plant 
 in flower during my rambles, but it is probable the 
 
Chap. XI. 
 
 RICE-PAPER PLANT. 
 
 233 
 
 plant flowers at a later period of the year.* Nu- 
 merous small plants were coming through the 
 ground in various directions, which a Chinese 
 soldier carefully dug up for me, and which I took 
 with me to Shanghae, and deposited them in 
 Mr. Beale’s garden. These, with a few samples 
 of the largest stems I could find, have been sent 
 to England and India ; the latter will prove an 
 interesting addition to our museums of vegetable 
 productions. The proportion of pith in these 
 stems is very great, particularly near- the top of 
 vigorous growing ones, and it is from this pure 
 white substance that the beautiful article errone- 
 ously called “ rice-paper ” is prepared. 
 
 The Chinese call this plant the Tung-tsaou. 
 What it was, or to what part of the vegetable 
 kingdom it belonged, was long a mystery to bota- 
 nists, who were oftentimes sadly misled by imagi- 
 nary Chinese drawings, as some of those which 
 have been published will clearly show, now that 
 our knowledge has increased. Indeed the only 
 drawing I have seen in Europe, which has any 
 claim to be considered authentic, is that brought 
 from China by the late Mr. Reeves many years 
 ago, and which I have seen in the library of the 
 Horticultural Society of London. 
 
 The Tung-tsaou is largely cultivated in many 
 parts of the island of Formosa, and with rice 
 and camphor forms one of the chief articles of 
 
 * It flowers and seeds during the winter and spring months at 
 Hong-kong and Calcutta. 
 
234 
 
 RICE-PAPER PLANT. 
 
 Chap. XI. 
 
 export. Mr. Bowring, who read a paper upon the 
 rice-paper plant, before the China branch of the 
 Royal Asiatic Society, informs us that the Canton 
 and Fokien provinces are the chief consumers, 
 and that the town of Foo-chow alone is supposed 
 to take annually not less than 30,000 dollars worth 
 of this curious and beautiful production. The 
 cheapness of this paper in the Chinese market, as 
 Mr. Bowring justly remarks, is evidence of the 
 abundance of the plant in its place of growth, and 
 more especially of the cheapness of labour. “ That 
 100 sheets of this material (each about three 
 inches square), certainly one of the most beautiful 
 and delicate substances with which we are ac- 
 quainted, should be procurable for the small sum 
 of lie?, or lie?., is truly astonishing ; and when 
 once the attention of foreigners is directed to it, it 
 will doubtless be in considerable request among 
 workers in artificial flowers in Europe and America, 
 being admirably adapted to their wants.” The 
 larger sheets, such as those used by the Canton 
 flower-painters, are sold for about lie?- each. 
 
 If the Tung-tsaou proves hardy in England, its 
 fine foliage will render it a favourite amongst 
 ornamental plants in our gardens. Judging, how- 
 ever, from its appearance when growing on its 
 native island, and from the temperature of For- 
 mosa, I fear we cannot expect it to be more than a 
 greenhouse plant with us. 
 
 Before I left China it had been completely 
 naturalised on the island of Hong-kong. A noble 
 
Chap. XI. 
 
 THE FORT AND ITS GUARDS. 
 
 235 
 
 plant was growing in tire garden at liead-quarters 
 house, several very fine ones were observed in 
 Messrs. Jardine’s garden at Bast-point to which 
 Mr. Bowring had introduced it, and younger 
 plants were seen springing up in all directions. 
 
 It is really a most striking-looking plant, and 
 highly ornamental. At all times the fine, broad 
 palmate leaves which crown the stem have a noble 
 appearance, and in the winter months its large 
 panicles of flowers make it more interesting. 
 
 In going on shore I had landed near an old fort, 
 like many others in China in a most ruinous con- 
 dition, hut still mounting a few old rusty cannon 
 which seemed more for show than for use. The 
 houses of the soldiers inside the fort were, with 
 one or two exceptions, in ruins, and the men told 
 me they had received no pay for a length of time. 
 This was, no doubt, the case over all the island, 
 and was probably the cause of the rebellion which 
 had now broken out in various parts of the country, 
 and which the money we took over was sent to 
 quell. 
 
 Leaving the fort and its poverty-stricken guards, 
 I went on to the town, or rather large village, 
 which seems to he the seaport of Tam-shuy. Here 
 I found the authorities receiving those mandarins 
 who had been our fellow-passengers, and giving 
 each a salute of three guns on landing. Some 
 tradesmen were busily employed in fitting up a 
 theatre in which a play was to he performed in the 
 afternoon, also in honour of the new arrivals, and 
 
236 
 
 NATIVES OF FOKMOSA. 
 
 Chap. XI. 
 
 to which we were invited. The houses in the 
 town were generally poor and mean-looking, and 
 there seemed nothing in the shops except the 
 simplest articles of food, such as fish, pork, sweet 
 potatoes and various other vegetables in daily use 
 among the population. However, as I have al- 
 ready remarked, this is only an insignificant sea- 
 port, and gives no idea of the more wealthy towns, 
 which are known to exist inland. 
 
 As several vessels, which have been shipwrecked 
 at different times on the coast of Formosa, have 
 had their crews barbarously treated by the natives, 
 the impression is abroad that it is far from being 
 safe to land on any part of the island. Judging, 
 however, from the short acquaintance I had with 
 the people, I am inclined to believe the impression 
 to he unfounded ; unless, indeed, in cases of ship- 
 wreck, when they may not be trusted. But this 
 is the same in China, — and, perhaps, we might 
 instance other places nearer home. Everywhere, 
 both in the town and also in. the country, I was 
 civilly and even kindly received by the people. 
 They begged me to enter their houses and sit 
 down, and invariably set tea before me and offered 
 me anything they had in use amongst themselves, 
 — and, during a day’s excursion, I did not hear a 
 single disrespectful word from any of those with 
 whom I came in contact. 
 
 The natives of Formosa are Chinese, and are 
 under the control of the Governor of Fokien, 
 whose head-quarters are in the city of Foo-chow- 
 
Chap. XI. 
 
 PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 237 
 
 foo, on the river Min. In the interior of the 
 island, however, and on its eastern shores, there 
 exists a wild race, who acknowledge no such 
 authority, and of whom little appears to be known. 
 The Chinese tells us, these strange people live 
 in trees like monkeys ; but whether this he true or 
 an exaggeration I have no means of stating. 
 
 The chief productions and exports of the island 
 are rice and camphor. The rice junks arrive 
 yearly in large numbers at Ningpo from Formosa. 
 The camphor finds its way in native vessels to 
 Amoy, Chinchew, and the Straits, and from thence 
 is exported in large quantities to Europe. Coal is 
 also abundant in many parts, and may at some 
 future period become of great importance to our 
 steam-ships which are now springing up in all 
 directions in these seas. 
 
 The hills and valleys, even very near the sea, 
 seem particularly rich and fertile, and I have no 
 doubt that further inland the beauty and fertility 
 are much more striking. Altogether, it is well 
 worth the attention of any government ; not with a 
 view to annexation or conquest, but to develope its 
 resources, more particularly with regard to coal 
 for our steamers. A new day is beginning to 
 dawn in the east ; Japan and China will soon be 
 opened to unfettered commerce ; already steamers 
 are making their appearance on these seas and 
 rivers, and it is high time that we should know 
 something of a beautiful island known to be rich 
 and fertile and to have abundant supplies of 
 
238 
 
 OUR CHINA FLEET. 
 
 Chap. XI. 
 
 coal which only require to be dug out of the 
 earth. 
 
 We have had a whole fleet of men-of-war — brigs 
 and steamers of all sizes — in China ever since the 
 termination of the last war, and yet how little has 
 been done to extend onr knowledge of an island 
 like this, or, with the exception of Japan, and 
 this was only a year ago, of any part to the east- 
 ward of China beyond the 32° of north latitude. 
 In the fruitless search made after the Russian 
 fleet in 1855, the knowledge which we ought 
 to have acquired long ago, but which we had 
 not, might have done us good service. 
 
 Within the last year or two our vessels of war 
 have had enough to do, and could not be spared 
 on a service of this kind. The disturbances in 
 China and the piracy on the coast have kept the 
 vessels stationed at the different ports fully em- 
 ployed, and well and nobly have they performed 
 their duties ; but some few years ago, I well re- 
 member seeing such vessels lying at their anchors 
 with nothing in the world to do for months to- 
 gether, if not for years. In several instances 
 their crews got sick, and when it was too late — 
 when numbers of the hands were dead or dying— 
 the anchors were got up, and the vessels put to 
 sea. Let any one visit the little English burying- 
 ground on the island of Chusan, and he will have a 
 full confirmation of the truth of what I state. Had 
 the commanders of these vessels been ordered to go 
 to sea from time to time, to explore the northern 
 
Chap. XI. 
 
 CHINESE COOLNESS. 
 
 239 
 
 Chinese coasts and those of Tartary, or to gain 
 a more perfect knowledge of the resources of the 
 islands of Formosa and Japan, a service of great 
 value would have been rendered to commerce, and 
 probably to science, the health of the crews would 
 have been preserved, and numbers of lives saved. 
 
 The mandarins we took over to Formosa with 
 the treasure had agreed to pay some two thousand 
 dollars as charter-money for the steamer, and had 
 also promised to give us a sufficient quantity of 
 coal to take us back to the coast of China. It 
 turned out, however, that the said coal had to be 
 sent for some distance inland, and the captain was 
 informed he would have to wait three or four days 
 before he could be supplied. Time is nothing to 
 the Chinese, but it was of great importance to a 
 small tug-steamer. The Chinese were informed 
 that we could not wait ; an assertion which they 
 received very coolly, now that themselves and 
 their treasure had been brought safely across the 
 channel. “ If we could not wait, we must go ; 
 that was all.” 
 
 During the day of oiy’ stay at this port the 
 natives came off in swarms to look at the steamer. 
 They were kindly treated by the officers, and their 
 curiosity was gratified as much as possible. In 
 the afternoon the mandarins brought their friends 
 to see the vessel, and took away their boxes of 
 silver. They were treated with tea and wine, and 
 left us the best of friends. Just before dark, the 
 steam being up, we left them to fight their own 
 
240 
 
 SAIL FOR SHANGHAE. 
 
 Chap. XI. 
 
 battles with the rebel power, and stood out to 
 sea. 
 
 Having steamed rapidly all night, we found 
 ourselves next morning at daybreak not a great 
 distance from the entrance to the Min. It had 
 been a stipulation with the Chinese authorities, 
 when they chartered the vessel, that a messenger, 
 who had been sent over in charge of the money, 
 should be brought back, at least as far as the 
 mouth of the river, in order to report that the 
 sycee had been safely delivered and the conditions 
 of the charter fulfilled. This man, whom I hap- 
 pened to meet afterwards, told me when he made 
 his appearance at Foo-chow the authorities were 
 perfectly astonished, and it was a most difficult 
 matter to convince them that he had been further 
 than the mouth of the river. They had calculated 
 on his being absent a week at the least. 
 
 As we had now completed the contract under- 
 taken with the mandarins in Foo-chow, and there 
 being nothing else to detain the vessel, we steamed 
 rapidly northward for the port of Shanghae. We 
 were favoured with delightful weather for steam- 
 ing ; there was scarcely a ripple on the water all 
 the way, and as our captain knew every nook and 
 corner of the coast, we had a rapid and delightful 
 voyage, which will long be remembered by that 
 brave band of passengers who mounted guard that 
 night at the mouth of the Min. 
 
 It was now spring in the north of China. At 
 this season the weather in the provinces of Kiang- 
 
Chap. XI. 
 
 SPRING AND SPRING FLOWERS. 
 
 241 
 
 nan and Chekiang is most delightful. It is not like 
 an English spring with its easterly winds and cold 
 and cheerless days ; nor is it like an Indian one, 
 which is not a spring at all, hut rather a hot dry 
 winter, with its leafless trees and burning sand. It 
 is a real genuine spring, which tells one that winter 
 has gone by ; the air is cool yet soft, and ren- 
 dered softer by mild April showers ; every tree is 
 bursting into leaf, and how deliciously green these 
 leaves are when they first unfold themselves ! 
 The birds are singing in every bush and tree, 
 and all nature seems to rejoice and sing aloud 
 for joy. 
 
 In the north of China there are a number of 
 plants which have their flower-buds very promi- 
 nently developed in autumn, so much so that they 
 are ready to burst into bloom before the winter 
 has quite passed by, or, at all events, on the first 
 dawn of spring. Amongst these Jasminum nudi- 
 florum occupies a prominent position. Its yellow 
 blossoms, which it produces in great abundance, 
 may be seen not unfrequently peeping out from 
 amongst the snow, and reminds the stranger in 
 these remote regions of the beautiful primroses 
 and cowslips which grow on the shaded banks 
 of his own land. Nearly as early as this, the 
 pretty daisy-like Spiraea prunifolia , the yellow For- 
 sytliia viridissima, the lilac Daphne Fortunei , and 
 the pink Judas-tree, become covered with blossoms, 
 and make our northern Chinese gardens extremely 
 
242 
 
 SPRING FLOWERS. 
 
 Chap. XI. 
 
 ga}^. There are also some good camellias which 
 flower at this time, but they are generally grown 
 in pots under such shelter as mat-sheds and other 
 buildings of a like kind can afford. Two of these 
 varieties are particularly striking. Their flowers 
 are of the most perfect form, and they have striped 
 and self-coloured blossoms upon the same plant. 
 These are now in Mr. Grlendinning’s nursery at 
 Chiswick, and in a year or two will be common in 
 every collection. The double-blossomed peaches, of 
 which there are several very distinct varieties now 
 in England, are perhaps the gayest of all things 
 which flower in early spring. Fancy, if you can, 
 trees fully as large as our almond, literally loaded 
 with rich-coloured blossoms, nearly as large and 
 double as roses, and you will have some idea of 
 the effect produced hv these fine trees in this part 
 of the world. 
 
 A little later in the season, that is from the 
 20th of April to the beginning of May, another 
 race of flowering shrubs and herbaceous plants 
 succeed those I have named. The most conspicu- 
 ous amongst them are Viburnum macrocephalum 
 and dilatatum, with their large heads of snow-white 
 flowers ; Spiraea Reevesiana , and the double variety, 
 which is more beautiful than the original species ; 
 Weigela rosea , now well known in Europe ; Moutans 
 of various hues of colour ; Azaleas, particularly 
 the lovely little “ Amoena Kerria japonica, the 
 lilac and white glycines, roses, Dielytra spectabilis, 
 
Chap. XI. 
 
 THE GLYCINE SINENSIS. 
 
 243 
 
 and Primula cortusoides. It will easily be believed 
 that with such a host of Flora’s beauties these 
 Chinese gardens must be gay indeed. But perhaps 
 the most beautiful sight of all is the Glycine sinen- 
 sis, climbing upon and hanging down from other 
 trees. I believe I noticed in my former works 
 the fine effects produced by this climber when in 
 such situations. I again observed numerous ex- 
 amples this spring, and cannot help drawing atten- 
 tion once more to the subject. The fine plant of 
 this species upon the Chiswick garden-wall is much 
 and justly admired ; but imagine a plant equally 
 large, or in some instances much larger, attaching 
 itself to a tree, or even a group of trees, entwining 
 itself round the stems, running up every branch, 
 and weighing down every branchlet ; and, in the 
 end of April or beginning of May, covered with 
 flowers, some faint idea may be formed of the fine 
 effects produced by the glycine in its native coun- 
 try. I believe it would not succeed if managed in 
 this way near London, or anywhere in the north ; 
 but the experiment would be worth a trial in some 
 parts of Europe, where the summers are warmer 
 than they are in England. As this description 
 may meet the eye of readers in the United States 
 of America, who are as fond of their parks and 
 gardens as we are of ours, I cannot do better 
 than recommend the experiment to them. Many 
 of our northern Chinese plants succeed admirably 
 in America. China and America are both situated 
 on the eastern side of large continents, they are 
 
 s 
 
244 
 
 CHINESE PLANTS IN AMERICA. 
 
 Chav. XI. 
 
 equally liable to the extremes of beat and cold, 
 and consequently the shrubs and trees of one 
 country are almost certain to succeed as well in 
 the other, provided they are reared in the same 
 latitudes, and grown in the same kind of soil. 
 
Chap. XU. 
 
 PROVINCE OF CHEKIANG. 
 
 245 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Return to Chekiang — A journey to the interior — Chinese country 
 fair — Small feet of women — How formed, and the results — Stalls 
 at the fair — Ancient porcelain seal same as found in the hogs of 
 Ireland — Theatricals — Chinese actors — Natural productions of 
 the country — Liliaceous medicinal plant — “Cold water temple” 
 — Start for Tsan-tsin — Mountain scenery and productions — 
 Astonishment of the people — A little hoy’s opinion of my liahits. 
 
 On arriving at Sliangliae I lost no time in return- 
 ing again to the tea-districts in the interior of the 
 Chekiang province, in order to make again ar- 
 rangements for further supplies of seeds and plants 
 for the following autumn. I shall not enter into 
 a description of this part of my duties, as it would 
 be nearly a repetition of some of the earlier pages 
 in this work. But during the summer and autumn 
 I had many opportunities of visiting districts in 
 the interior of the country hitherto undescribed, 
 and to these “ fresh fields and pastures new,” I 
 shall now conduct the reader. 
 
 The eastern parts of the province, in which the 
 islands of the Chusan archipelago and the great 
 cities of Hangchow and Ningpo are included, 
 is now pretty well known, — partly through my 
 own researches, and partly through those of other 
 travellers. The central and western parts of this 
 fine province, however, have scarcely as yet been 
 
24(5 
 
 PROVINCE OF CHEKIANG. 
 
 Chap. XII. 
 
 explored by foreigners, and therefore a short ac- 
 count of its inhabitants and productions, as ob- 
 served by me during a visit this year, may prove 
 of some interest. Having engaged a small boat 
 at Ningpo to take me up to one of the sources of 
 the river, which flows past the walls of that city, 
 I left late one evening with the first of the flood- 
 tide. We sailed on until daylight next morning, 
 when the ebb made strong against us, and obliged 
 us to make our boat fast to the river’s bank, and 
 wait for the next flood. The country through 
 which we had passed during the night was per- 
 fectly flat, and was one vast rice-field, with clumps 
 of trees and villages scattered over it in all direc- 
 tions. Like all other parts of China, where the 
 country is flat and fertile, this portion seemed to 
 be densely populated. We were now no great 
 distance from the hills which bound the south-west 
 side of this extensive plain, — a plain some thirty 
 miles from east to west, and twenty from north to 
 south. Part of the road was the same I had tra- 
 velled the year before on my way to the Snowy 
 Valley. 
 
 When the tide turned to run up we again got 
 under way, and proceeded on our journey. In the 
 afternoon we reached the hills ; and as our little 
 boat followed the winding course of the stream, 
 the wide and fertile plain through which we had 
 passed was shut out from our view. About four 
 o’clock in the afternoon we reached the town of 
 Ning-Kang-jou, beyond which the river is not 
 
Chap. XII. 
 
 CHINESE COUNTRY FAIR. 
 
 247 
 
 navigable for boats of any size ; and here I deter- 
 mined to leave my boat, and make excursions into 
 the surrounding country. It so happened that I 
 arrived on the eve of a fair, to be held next day 
 in the little town in which I had taken up my 
 quarters. As I walked through the streets in the 
 evening of my arrival great preparations were evi- 
 dently making for the business and gaieties of the 
 following day. The shop-fronts were all decorated 
 with lanterns ; hawkers were arriving from all 
 parts of the surrounding country, loaded with 
 wares to tempt the holiday folks ; and as two 
 grand theatrical representations were to be given, 
 one at each end of the town, on the banks of the 
 little stream, workmen were busily employed in 
 fitting up the stages and galleries, — the latter being- 
 intended for the accommodation of those who gave 
 the play and their friends. Everything was going 
 on in the most good-humoured way, and the people 
 seemed delighted to see a foreigner amongst them, 
 and were all perfectly civil and kind. I had many 
 invitations to come and see the play next night ; 
 and the general impression seemed to be, that I 
 had visited the place with the sole intention of 
 seeing the fair. 
 
 Retiring early to rest, I was up next morning 
 some time before the sun, and took my way into 
 the country to the westward. Even at that early 
 hour — 4 a.m. — the country-roads were lined with 
 people pouring into the town. There were long 
 trains of coolies, loaded with fruits and vegetables ; 
 
248 
 
 SMALL FEET OF WOMEN. 
 
 Chap. XII. 
 
 there were hawkers, with their cakes and sweet- 
 meats to tempt the young ; while now and then 
 passed a thrifty housewife, carrying a web of 
 cotton cloth, which had been woven at home, and 
 was now to be sold at the fair. More gaily dressed 
 than any of these were small parties of ladies 
 limping along on their small feet, each one having 
 a long staff in her hand to steady her, and to help 
 her along the mountain-road. Behind each of 
 these parties come an attendant coolie, carrying a 
 basket of provisions, and any other little article 
 which was required during the journey. On po- 
 litely inquiring of the several parties of ladies 
 where they were going to, they invariably replied 
 in the language of the district “ Ta-pa-Busa-la,” — 
 we are going to worship Buddha. Some of the 
 younger ones, particularly the good-looking, pre- 
 tended to be vastly frightened as I passed them on 
 the narrow road ; but that this was only pretence 
 was clearly proved by the joyous ringing laugh 
 which reached my ears after they had passed and 
 before they were out of sight. 
 
 It is certainly a most barbarous custom that of 
 deforming the feet of Chinese ladies, and detracts 
 greatly from their beauty. Many persons think 
 that the custom prevails only amongst persons of 
 rank or wealth, but this is a great mistake. In 
 the central and eastern provinces of the empire it 
 is almost universal, — the fine ladies who ride in 
 sedan-chairs, and the poorer classes who toil from 
 morning till evening in the fields, are all deformed 
 
Chap. XII. 
 
 SMALL FEET OF WOMEN. 
 
 249 
 
 in the same manner. In the more southern pro- 
 vinces, such as Fokien and Canton, the custom is 
 not so universal ; boat-women and field-labourers 
 generally allow their feet to grow to the natural 
 size. Here is one of a peculiar class of country- 
 women, to be met with near Foo-chow, from the 
 talented pencil of Mr. Scarth. 
 
 Foo-chow Countrywoman. 
 
 Dr. Lockhart, whose name I have already men- 
 tioned in these pages, gives the following as the 
 results of his extensive and varied experience on 
 this subject. He says : — 
 
 “ Considering the vast number of females who 
 have the feet bound up in early life, and whose 
 feet are then distorted, the amount of actual dis- 
 ease of the bones is small ; the ancle is generally 
 tender, and much walking soon causes the foot to 
 
250 
 
 SMALL FEET OF WOMEN, 
 
 Chap. XII. 
 
 swell, and be very painful, and tins chiefly when 
 the feet have been carelessly bound in infancy. 
 To produce the diminution of the foot, the tarsus 
 or instep is bent on itself, the os calcis or heel-bone 
 thrown out of the horizontal position, and what 
 ought to be the posterior surface, brought to the 
 ground ; so that the ancle is, as it were, forced 
 higher up than it ought to be, producing in fact 
 artificial Talipes Calcaneus ; then the four smaller 
 toes are pressed down under the instep, and 
 checked in their growth, till at adult age all that 
 has to go into the shoe is the end of the os calcis 
 and the whole of the great toe. In a healthy con- 
 stitution this constriction of the foot may be car- 
 ried on without any very serious consequences ; 
 but in scrofulous constitutions the navicular bone, 
 and the cuneiform bone supporting the great toe, 
 are very liable, from the constant pressure and 
 irritation to which they are exposed, to become 
 diseased ; and many cases have been seen where 
 caries, softening, and even death of the bone have 
 taken place, accompanied with much suppuration 
 and great consequent suffering. Chinese women 
 have naturally very small hands and feet, but this 
 practice of binding the feet utterly destroys all 
 symmetry according to European ideas, and the 
 limping uncertain gait of the women is, to a fo- 
 reigner, distressing to see. Few of the Chinese 
 women can walk far, and they always appear to 
 feel pain when they try to walk quickly, or on 
 uneven ground. 
 
Chap. XII. HOW FORMED, AND THE RESULTS. 251 
 
 “ The most serious inconvenience to which 
 women with small feet are exposed,” he observes, 
 “ is that they so frequently fall and injure them- 
 selves. During the past year, several cases of this 
 kind have presented themselves. Among them 
 was one of an old woman, seventy years of age, 
 who was coming down a pair of stairs and fell, 
 breaking both her legs ; she was in a very dan- 
 gerous state for some time, on account of threat- 
 ened mortification of one leg, but the unfavourable 
 symptoms passed off, and finally the bones of both 
 legs united, and she is able to walk again. 
 
 “ Another case was also that of an elderly 
 woman, who was superintending the spring cut- 
 ting of bamboo shoots in her field, when she fell 
 over some bamboos, owing to her crqDpled feet 
 slipping among the roots ; a compound fracture of 
 one leg was the consequence, and the upper frag- 
 ment of the bone stuck in the ground ; the soft 
 parts of the leg were so much injured, that ampu- 
 tation was recommended, but her friends would 
 not hear of it, and she soon afterwards died from 
 mortification of the limb. 
 
 “ The third case was that of a woman, who also 
 fell down stairs and had compound fracture of the 
 leg ; this case is still under treatment, and is likely 
 to do well, as there was nof very much injury done 
 to the soft parts in the first instance.” 
 
 About eight o’clock I returned to the town, and 
 took the principal temple on my way. The sight 
 which presented itself here was a curious and 
 
252 
 
 STALLS AT THE FAIR. 
 
 Chap. XII. 
 
 striking one. Near the doors were numerous 
 venders of candles and joss-stick, who were eagerly 
 pressing the devotees to buy ; so eager were they, 
 indeed, that I observed them in several instances 
 actually lay hold of the people as they passed ; and 
 strange to say, this rather rough mode of getting 
 customers was frequently successful. Crowds of 
 people were going in and coming out of the temple 
 exactly like bees in a hive on a fine summer’s day. 
 Some halted a few moments to buy their candles 
 and incense from the dealers already noticed ; 
 while others seemed to prefer purchasing from the 
 priests in the temple. Nor were the venders con- 
 fined to those who sold things used only in the 
 worship of Buddha. Some had stalls of cakes and 
 sweetmeats ; others had warm and cold tea, snuff- 
 bottles, fans, and a hundred other fancy articles 
 which it is needless to enumerate. Doctors were 
 there who could cure all diseases ; and fortune- 
 tellers, too, seemed to have a full share of patron- 
 age from a liberal and enlightened public. In 
 front of the altar other scenes were being acted. 
 Here the devotees — by far the largest portion 
 being females — were prostrating themselves many 
 times before the Gods ; and each one, as she arose 
 from her knees, hastened to light some candles 
 and incense, and place these upon the altar, then 
 returning to the front, the prostrations were again 
 repeated, and then the place was given up to 
 another, who repeated the same solemn farce. And 
 so they went on during the whole of that day, — 
 
Chap. XII. 
 
 ANCIENT PORCELAIN SEALS. 
 
 253 
 
 on which many thousands of people must have 
 paid their vows at these heathen altars. 
 
 I may here mention, in passing, that I picked up 
 two articles at this place, of considerable interest 
 to antiquaries in Europe. One was a small porce- 
 lain bottle, exactly similar in size, form and colour- 
 ing to those found in ancient Egyptian tombs. 
 The characters on one side are also identical, and 
 are a quotation from one of the Chinese poets — 
 “ Only in the midst of this mountain." 
 
 I have already alluded to these bottles in one of 
 the earlier chapters, and need say nothing further 
 about them here. They are to be met with not 
 unfrequently in doctors’ shops and old stalls ; 
 several persons, both in China and England, pos- 
 sess specimens. 
 
 The other article I have mentioned is far more 
 curious and interesting. It is a small porcelain 
 seal identical with those found of late years in the 
 bogs of Ireland. On the 6th of May, 1850, Mr. 
 Getty read a very curious and interesting paper 
 on this subject before the Belfast Literary Society, 
 and he has since published it with drawings and 
 descriptions of the different seals. One was found 
 when ploughing a field in Tipperary, another in 
 the county of Down, a third in the bed of the 
 river Boyne, and a fourth near Dublin. That 
 these seals have lain in the bogs and rivers of 
 Ireland for many ages there cannot be the slight- 
 est doubt. The peculiar white or rather cream- 
 coloured porcelain of which they are composed, 
 
254 ANCIENT PORCELAIN SEALS. Chap. XII. 
 
 lias not been made in China for several hundred 
 years. The Chinese, who laugh at the idea of the 
 bottles being considered ancient which have been 
 found in the tombs of Egypt, all agree in stating 
 that these seals are from one thousand to two 
 thousand years old. 
 
 They are very rare in China at the present day. 
 I had the greatest difficulty in getting the few 
 which are now in my possession, although my 
 opportunities of picking up such things were 
 greater than those of most persons in China. It 
 is therefore absurd to suppose that those found in 
 Ireland can have been brought over of late years 
 by sailors, or captains of ships, or even by either 
 of the two embassies to Peking. Here is a sketch 
 of some of those found in China at the present 
 day. Those who are fortunate enough to possess 
 the Irish ones will see an exact resemblance to 
 their own. 
 
 Ancient Porcelain Seals. 
 
 There is therefore no doubt that those rare and 
 ancient seals found in China at the present day 
 
Chap. XII. 
 
 ANCIENT PORCELAIN SEALS. 
 
 255 
 
 are identical with those found in Ireland. That 
 the latter must have been brought over at a very 
 early period, and that they must have lain for 
 many ages in the bogs and rivers of that island 
 seems also quite certain. But when they came 
 there, how they came, and what were the circum- 
 stances connected with their introduction, are 
 questions which we cannot answer. To do this 
 satisfactorily we should probably have to consult 
 a hook of history, written, studied, and lost long 
 before that of the present history of Ireland. 
 
 The streets of the town were now crowded with 
 people ; and the whole scene reminded me of a 
 fair in a country-town in England. In addition 
 to the usual articles in the shops, and an unusual 
 supply of fruits and vegetables, there was a large 
 assortment of other tilings which seemed to he 
 exposed in quantity only on a fair-day. Native 
 cotton cloths, woven by liandlooms in the country, 
 were abundant, — mats made from a species of Jun- 
 cus, and generally used for sleeping upon, — clothes 
 of all kinds, both new and second-hand, — porcelain 
 and wooden vessels of various sorts, — toys, cakes, 
 sweetmeats, and all the common accompaniments 
 of an English fair. Various textile fibres of in- 
 terest were abundant, being produced in large 
 quantities in the district. Amongst these, and the 
 chief, were the following : — hemp, jute, China 
 grass (so called) — being the bark of Urtica nivea — 
 and the Juncus already noticed. A great number 
 of the wooden vessels were made of the wood of 
 
256 CHINESE THEATRICALS. Chap. XII. 
 
 Cryptomania japonica, which is remarkable for the 
 number of beautiful rings and veins which show to 
 great advantage when the wood is polished. 
 
 In the afternoon the play began, and attracted 
 its thousands of happy spectators. As already 
 stated, the subscribers, or those who gave the play, 
 had a raised platform, placed about twenty yards 
 from the front of the stage, for themselves and 
 their friends. The public occupied the ground on 
 the front and sides of the stage, and to them the 
 whole was free as their mountain-air, — each man, 
 however poor, had as good right to be there as his 
 neighbour. And it is the same all over China : — 
 the actors are paid by the rich, and the poor are 
 not excluded from participating in the enjoyments 
 of the stage. 
 
 The Chinese have a curious fancy for erecting 
 these temporary theatres on the dry beds of 
 streams. In travelling through the country I 
 have frequently seen them in such places. Some- 
 times, when the thing is done in grand style, a 
 little tinsel town is erected at the same time, with 
 its palaces, pagodas, gardens, and dwarf plants. 
 These places rise and disappear as if by the magic 
 of the enchanter’s wand, but they serve the pur- 
 poses for which they are designed, and contribute 
 largely to the enjoyment and happiness of the 
 mass of the people. 
 
 On the present occasion I did not fail to accept 
 the invitations which had been given me in the 
 earlier part of the day. As I did not intend to 
 
Chap. XII. 
 
 CHINESE THEATRICALS. 
 
 257 
 
 remain for a great length of time I was content to 
 take my place in the “ pit,” which I have already 
 said is free to the public. But the parties who 
 had given the play were too polite to permit me 
 to remain amongst the crowd. One of them — a 
 respectable-looking man, dressed very gaily — came 
 down and invited me to accompany him to the 
 boxes. He led me up a narrow staircase and into 
 a little room in which I found several of his 
 friends amusing themselves by smoking, sipping 
 tea, and eating seeds and fruits of various kinds. 
 All made way for the stranger, and endeavoured 
 to place me in the best position for getting a view 
 of the stage. What a mass of human beings were 
 below me ! The place seemed full of heads, and 
 one might suppose that the bodies were below, but 
 it was impossible to see them, so densely were they 
 packed together. Had it not been for the stage 
 in the background with its actors dressed in the 
 gay-coloured costumes of a former age, and the 
 rude and noisy band, it would have reminded me 
 more of the hustings at a contested election in 
 England than anything else. But taken as a 
 whole, there was nothing to which I could liken 
 it out of China. 
 
 The actors had no stage-scenery to assist them 
 in making an impression on the audience. This 
 is not the custom in China. A table, a few chairs, 
 and a covered platform are all that is required. 
 No ladies are allowed to appear as actresses in the 
 country, but the way in which the sex is imitated 
 
258 
 
 CHINESE THEATRICALS. 
 
 Chap. XII. 
 
 is most admirable, and always deceives any fo- 
 reigner ignorant of the fact I liave stated. 
 
 In tlie present instance each actor repeated his 
 part in a singing falsetto voice. The whole inte- 
 rest of the piece must have lain in the story itself, 
 for there was nothing natural in the acting, the 
 sham sword-fights perhaps excepted. One or two 
 of these occurred in the piece during the time I 
 was a spectator, and they were certainly natural 
 enough, thoroughly Chinese and very amusing. 
 An actor rushed upon the stage amid the clashing 
 of timbrels, beating of gongs, and squeaking of 
 other instruments. He was brandishing a short 
 sword in each hand, now and then wheeling 
 round apparently to protect himself in the rear, 
 and all the time performing the most extraordinary 
 actions with his feet, which seemed as if they had 
 to do as much of the fighting as the hands. People 
 who have seen much of the manoeuvring of Chi- 
 nese troops will not call this unnatural acting. 
 But whatever a foreigner might think of such 
 “ artistes,” judging from the intense interest and 
 boisterous mirth of a numerous audience, they 
 performed their parts to the entire satisfaction of 
 their patrons and the public. 
 
 “ How-pa-how,” said my kind friends, as I rose 
 to take my leave; “is it good or bad?” Of 
 course I expressed my entire approbation, and 
 thanked them for the excellent view I had enjoyed 
 of the performance through their politeness. It 
 was now night — dark— the lanterns were lighted, 
 
Chap. XII. NATURAL PRODUCTIONS OF COUNTRY. 259 
 
 the crowd still continued, and the play went on. 
 Long after I left them, and even when I retired 
 for the night, I could hear, every now and then, 
 borne on the air the sounds of their rude music, 
 and the shouts of applause from a good-humoured 
 multitude. 
 
 The natural productions of this part of China 
 now claim a share of our attention. Much of the 
 level land among the hills in this part of the 
 country, being considerably higher than the great 
 Ningpo plain, is adapted to the growth of other 
 crops than rice. The soil in these valleys is a 
 light rich loam, and is in a state of high cultiva- 
 tion ; indeed, I never witnessed fields so much like 
 gardens as these are. The staple summer crops 
 are those which yield textile fibres, such as those 
 I saw in the fair already described. A plant well 
 known by the name of jute in India — a species of 
 Corcliorus — which has been largely exported to 
 Europe of late years from India, is grown here to 
 a very large extent. In China this fibre is used 
 in the manufacture of sacks and hags for holding- 
 rice and other grains. A gigantic species of hemp 
 (Cannabis) growing from ten to fifteen feet in 
 height, is also a staple summer crop. This is 
 chiefly used in making ropes and string of various 
 sizes, such articles being in great demand for 
 tracking the boats up rivers, and in the canals of 
 the country. Everyone has heard of China grass- 
 cloth, — that beautiful fabric made in the Canton 
 province, and largely exported to Europe and 
 
260 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS OP COUNTRY. Chap. XII. 
 
 America. Tlie plant which is supposed to produce 
 this ( Urtica nivca ) is also abundantly grown in 
 the western part of this province, and in the ad- 
 joining province of Kiangse. Fabrics of various 
 degrees of fineness are made from this fibre, and 
 sold in these provinces ; but I have not seen any 
 so fine as that made about Canton. It is also spun 
 into thread for sewing purposes, and is found to 
 be very strong and durable. There are two very 
 distinct varieties of this plant common in Chekiang 
 — one the cultivated, the other the wild. The culti- 
 vated variety has larger leaves than the other ; 
 on the upper side they are of a lighter green, 
 and on the under they are much more downy. 
 The stems also are lighter in colour, and the whole 
 plant has a silky feel about it which the wild one 
 wants. The wild variety grows plentifully on 
 sloping hanks, on city walls, and other old and 
 ruinous buildings. It is not prized by the natives, 
 who say its fibre is not so fine, and more broken 
 and confused in its structure than the other kind. 
 The cultivated kind yields three crops a year. 
 
 The last great crop which I observed was that of 
 a species of juncus, the stems of which are woven 
 into beautiful mats, used by the natives for sleeping 
 upon, for covering the floors of rooms, and for 
 many other useful purposes. This is cultivated in 
 water, somewhat like the rice-plant, and is there- 
 fore always planted in the lowest parts of these 
 valleys. At the time of my visit, in the beginning 
 of July, the harvest of this crop had just com- 
 
Chap. XIT. LILIACEOUS MEDICINAL PLANT. 
 
 261 
 
 menced, and hundreds of the natives were busily 
 employed in drying it. The river’s banks, un- 
 cultivated land, the dry gravelly bed of the river, 
 and every other available spot was taken up with 
 this operation. At grey dawn of morning the 
 sheaves or bundles were taken out of temporary 
 sheds, erected for the purpose of keeping off the 
 rain and dew, and shaken thinly over the surface 
 of the ground. In the afternoon, before the sun 
 had sunk very low in the horizon, it was gathered 
 up again into sheaves and placed under cover for 
 the night. A watch was then set in each of the 
 sheds ; for however quiet and harmless the people 
 in these parts are, there is no lack of thieves, who 
 are very honest if they have no opportunity to 
 steal. And so the process of winnowing went on 
 day by day until the whole of the moisture was 
 dried out of the reeds. They were then bound 
 up firmly in round bundles, and either sold in the 
 markets of the country, or taken to Ningpo and 
 other towns where the manufacture of mats is 
 carried on, on a large scale. 
 
 The winter crops of this part of China consist 
 of wheat, barley, the cabbage oil-plant, and many 
 other kinds of vegetables on a smaller scale. Large 
 tracts of land are planted with the bulbs of a 
 liliaceous plant — probably a Fritillaria — -which 
 are used in medicine. This is planted in Novem- 
 ber, and dug up again in April and May. In 
 March these lily -fields are in full blossom, and 
 give quite a feature to the country. The flowers 
 
 t 2 
 
262 
 
 COLD WATEK TEMPLE. 
 
 Chap. XII. 
 
 are of a dingy greyisli white, and not very orna- 
 mental. 
 
 It seems to me to be very remarkable that a 
 country like China, — rich in textile fibre, oils of 
 many kinds, vegetable tallow, dyes, and no doubt 
 many other articles which have not come under 
 my notice — should afford so few articles for expor- 
 tation. I have no doubt that as the country gets 
 better known, our merchants will find many things 
 besides silk and tea, which have hitherto formed 
 almost the only articles exported in quantity to 
 Europe and America. 
 
 When I was travelling in the part of the 
 country I have been describing, the weather was 
 extremely hot, — July and August being the hottest 
 months of the year in China. When complaining 
 of the excessive heat to some of my visitors, I was 
 recommended to go to a place called by them the 
 Lang-shuy~ain , or “ cold water temple,” situated 
 in the vicinity of the town in which I was staying. 
 In this place they told me both air and water were 
 cold notwithstanding the excessive heat of the 
 weather. On visiting the place I found it an old, 
 dilapidated building, which had evidently seen 
 more prosperous days. Ascending a few stone 
 steps, I reached the lower part of the edifice, when 
 I felt at once a sudden change in the temperature, 
 something like that which one experiences on 
 going into an ice-house on a hot summer’s day. 
 My guide led me to the further corner of this 
 place, and pointed to some stone steps which 
 
Chap. XII. 
 
 COLD WATER TEMPLE. 
 
 263 
 
 seemed to lead down to a cave or some sucli sub- 
 terranean place, and desired me to walk down. As 
 it appeared perfectly dark to me on coming from 
 the bright sunshine, I hesitated to proceed with- 
 out a candle. On this being brought, I was much 
 disappointed in finding the steps were only a few 
 in number and led to nowhere. It appeared that 
 in the more prosperous days of the temple there 
 had been a well of clear water at the bottom of 
 the steps, but now that was choked up with stones 
 and rubbish. I was able, however, to procure 
 a little water nearly as cold as if it had been iced. 
 The stones in this part of the building were also 
 very cold to the touch, and a strong current of 
 cold air was coming out of the earth at this par- 
 ticular point. I regretted much not having my 
 thermometer with me to have tested the difference 
 of the temperature with accuracy. On the floor of 
 the temple a motley group of persons was pre- 
 sented to my view. Beggars, sick persons, and 
 others who had taken refuge from the heat of the 
 sun were lolling about, evidently enjoying the 
 cool air which filled the place. It appeared to be 
 free to all, rich and poor alike. There are some 
 large clay-slate and granite quarries near this 
 place ; and I afterwards found several springs of 
 water issuing from the clay-slate rocks quite as 
 cold as that in the “ cold water temple.” 
 
 Having spent several days in the town of Ning- 
 kang-jou, I determined to proceed onwards to a 
 large temple situated amongst the hills to the 
 
264 
 
 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 
 
 Chap. XII. 
 
 westward, and distant, as I was informed, some 
 twenty or thirty le. Packing np my bed and a 
 few necessaries, I started in a mountain chair one 
 morning, after an early breakfast. Leaving the 
 town behind me, the road led me winding along 
 the side of a hill, following the course of the little 
 stream. The scenery here was perfectly en- 
 chanting. The road, though narrow, like all 
 Chinese roads, was nicely paved and oftentimes 
 shaded by the branches of lofty trees. Above me 
 rose a sloping hill, covered with trees and brush- 
 wood, while a few feet below me was seen the 
 little stream trickling over its gravelly bed and 
 glistening in the morning sun. Now and then 
 I passed a jiool where the water was still and 
 deep, but generally the river, which is navigable 
 for large ships at Ningpo, was here not more than 
 ankle deep. Shallow as it was, however, the 
 Chinese were still using it for floating down the 
 productions of these western hills. Small rafts 
 made of bamboo, tiny flat-bottomed boats, and 
 many other contrivances were employed to accom- 
 plish the end in view. When the river was so 
 shallow that the boatman could not use his scull, 
 he might oftentimes be seen walking in the river 
 and dragging his boat or raft over the stones into 
 deeper water. As I passed along, I observed 
 several anglers busily employed with rod and line 
 — real Izaak Waltons it seemed — and although 
 they did not appear very expert, and their tackle 
 was rather clumsy, yet they generally succeeded 
 
Chap. XII. ASTONISHMENT OF THE PEOPLE. 
 
 2G5 
 
 iii getting tlieir baskets well filled. Altogether, 
 this scene, which I can only attempt to describe, 
 was a charming one, — a view of Chinese country- 
 life, telling plainly that the Chinese, however 
 strange they may sometimes appear, are, after all, 
 very much like ourselves. 
 
 My road at length left the hill-side and little 
 stream, and took me across a wide and highly 
 cultivated valley, several miles in extent, and 
 surrounded on all sides by hills, except that one 
 through which the river winded in its course to 
 the eastward. I passed through two small towns 
 in this valley where the whole population seemed 
 to turn out to look at me. Everywhere I was 
 treated with the most marked politeness, and even 
 kindness, by the inhabitants. “ Stop a little, sit 
 down, drink tea,” was said to me by almost every 
 one whose door I passed. Sometimes I complied 
 with their wishes ; but more generally I simply 
 thanked them, and pushed onwards on my journey. 
 In the afternoon I arrived at the further end of 
 the valley and at the foot of a mountain pass. 
 As I gradually ascended this winding path, the 
 valley through which I had passed was entirely 
 shut out from my view. Nothing was now seen 
 but mountains, varying in height and form, — some 
 about 2000, and others little less than 4000 feet 
 above the level of the sea, — some formed of gentle 
 slopes, with here and there patches of cultivation, 
 — others steep and barren, where no cultivation 
 can ever be carried on, except that of brushwood, 
 
266 
 
 TEMPLE OF TSAN-TSING. 
 
 Chap. XII. 
 
 which the most barren mountains generally fur- 
 nish. The Chinese pine and Japan cedar were 
 almost the only trees of any size which I observed 
 as I passed along. A little higher up I came to 
 fine groves of the bamboo — the famous maou-chok, 
 already noticed— the finest variety of bamboo in 
 China, and always found growing in the vicinity 
 of Buddhist temples. 
 
 In a small valley amongst these mountains, 
 some 2000 feet high, the temple of Tsan-tsing 
 was at last seen peeping out from amongst the 
 trees. The building in itself is of a much less 
 imposing character than others I have seen in this 
 province and in Fokien ; but, like all others of its 
 kind, it is pleasantly situated in the midst of the 
 most romantic scenery. In addition to the pines 
 and bamboos already noticed, were several species 
 of oaks and chesnuts, the former producing good- 
 sized timber. But the finest tree of all, and quite 
 new to me, was a beautiful species of cedar or 
 larch ; which I observe Dr. Bindley, to whom 
 I sent specimens, calls Abies Kcempferi. 
 
 When I entered the court of the temple the 
 priests seemed quite lost in astonishment. No 
 other foreigner, it seemed, had been there before, 
 and many of them had only heard of us by name. 
 Some of them stood gazing at me as if I were a 
 being’ from another world, while others ran out to 
 inform their friends of my arrival. My request 
 for quarters was readily granted ; and being now 
 an old traveller, I was soon quite at home amongst 
 
Chap. XII. 
 
 LITTLE BOY’S OPINION OF ME. 
 
 267 
 
 my new friends. Late in tlie afternoon, long 
 trains of coolies — men and boys — passed the 
 temple from a district further inland, loaded with 
 young bamboo shoots, which are eaten as a vege- 
 table and much esteemed. The news of the 
 arrival of a foreigner at the temple seemed to fly 
 in all directions ; and we were crowded during the 
 evening with the natives, all anxious to get a 
 glimpse of me. Some seemed never tired of look- 
 ing at me ; others had a sort of superstitious 
 dread mingled with curiosity. One little urchin, 
 who had been looking on with great reverence 
 for some time, and on whom I flattered myself 
 I had made a favourable impression, undeceived 
 me by putting the following simple question to 
 his father : — “ If I go near him, will he bite me ?” 
 This, I confess, astonished me ; for although I had 
 no tail,— was not exactly the same colour as they 
 were, — and did not wear the same kind of dress, — 
 I did not expect to be taken for a wild animal. 
 What strange tales must have been told these 
 simple country people of the barbarians during the 
 last Chinese war ? 
 
208 
 
 A DINNER AUDIENCE. 
 
 Chap. XIII. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 A dinner audience — Adventure with a priest — Sanatarium for Ningpo 
 missionaries and others — Abies Kajmpferi — Journey to Quan- 
 ting — Bamboo woods and their value — Magnificent scenery — 
 Natives of Poo-in-chee — Golden hell at Quan-ting — Chinese tra- 
 ditions — Cold of the mountains — Journey with Mr. Wang — A 
 disappointment — Adventure with pirates — Strange hut satisfactory 
 signal — Results. 
 
 The bedroom which. I expressed a wish to occupy, 
 as it seemed somewhat cleaner than the others, 
 was used during the day by an itinerant tailor, a 
 native of Fung-hwa-heen, who was in the habit of 
 going from place to place to mend or make the 
 garments of his customers. This man willingly 
 removed to other quarters, and gave the room up 
 to me. He was a good specimen of his race, 
 shrewd, intelligent, and formed a striking contrast 
 to the priest for whom he was working. Never 
 in all my travels in China had I met with such 
 poor specimens of the human race as these same 
 priests. They had that vacant stare about them 
 which indicated want of intellect, or at least, a 
 mind of a very low order indeed. They did 
 nothing all day long but loll on chairs or stools, 
 and gaze upon the ground, or into space, or at the 
 people who were working, and then they did not 
 appear to see what was going on, but kept looking 
 
Chap. XIII. ADVENTURE WITH A PRIEST. 
 
 269 
 
 on and on notwithstanding. The time not spent 
 in this way was when they were either eating or 
 sleeping. They were too lazy to carry on the 
 services of the temple, which they deputed to a 
 little boy. And thus they spent their days, and 
 in this manner they would float down the stream 
 of time until they reached the ocean of eternity 
 and were no more seen. 
 
 There were four or five of these men connected 
 with the old monastery, and two or three boys, 
 who were being reared to succeed them. All the 
 men were apparently imbecile, but the superior 
 seemed to be in a state approaching to insanity. 
 I seemed to have an extraordinary attraction for 
 this man ; he never took his eyes off me ; wher- 
 ever I went he followed at a certain distance 
 behind, stopping when I stopped, and going on 
 again when I went on. When I entered the 
 house he came and peeped in at the window, and 
 when I made the slightest motion towards him, he 
 darted off in an instant, hut only to return again. 
 I began to think his actions extraordinary, and to 
 feel a little uneasy about his ultimate intentions. 
 The place and the people were all strange to me, 
 and it might so happen that the man was really 
 unsafe. By day there was no fear, as I could 
 easily protect myself ; but what if he fell upon me 
 unawares at night, when I was asleep ! I there- 
 fore sent for Tung-a, one of my servants, and 
 desired him to go out and make some enquiries 
 concerning the propensities of the mad priest. 
 
270 
 
 ADVENTURE WITH A PRIEST. 
 
 Chap. XIII. 
 
 Tung-a returned laughing, and told me there was 
 no danger ; the man was not mad, but that it was 
 partly fear and partly curiosity which made him 
 act in the manner he was doing, and further, that 
 I was the first specimen of my race he had seen. 
 
 During the time I was at dinner, and for some 
 time after, in addition to some of the more respect- 
 able who were admitted into the room, the doors 
 and windows were completely besieged with 
 people. Every little hole or crevice had a number 
 of eager eyes peeping through it, each anxious to 
 see the foreigner feed. Having finished my 
 dinner and smoked a cigar, much to the delight of 
 an admiring audience, I politely intimated that it 
 was getting late, that I was tired with the exer- 
 tions of the day, and that I was going to bed. 
 My inside guests rose and retired, hut it seemed to 
 me they only went outside to join the crowd, and 
 they were determined to see the finale ; they had 
 seen how I eat, drank, and smoked my cigar, and 
 they now wanted to see how and in what manner 
 I went to bed. My temper was unusually sweet 
 at this time, and therefore I had no objection to 
 gratify them even in this, providing they re- 
 mained quiet and allowed me to get to sleep. A 
 traveller generally does not spend much of his 
 time over the toilet, either in dressing or undress- 
 ing, so that in less time than I would take to 
 describe it I was undressed, the candle was put 
 out, and I was in bed. As there was nothing 
 more fo he seen the crowd left my window, and as 
 
Chap. XIII. ADVENTURE WITH A PRIEST. 
 
 271 
 
 they retired I could hear them laughing and 
 talking about what they had seen. 
 
 The chamber in which the liead-priest, whom I 
 have described, was wont to repose after the 
 fatigues of the day, was behind the one occupied 
 by me, and it appeared it was necessary to come 
 through mine in order to get into it. I had ex- 
 amined the chamber and learned to whom it 
 belonged in the course of the evening. Not 
 caring to be disturbed by having my door opened 
 and a person walking through my room after I 
 was in bed and asleep, I had suggested to the 
 priest the propriety of going to bed about the 
 same time as I did. When the crowd therefore 
 had left my windows, I heard one or two persons 
 whispering outside and still lingering there. T 
 called out to them and desired them to go away to 
 their beds. “ Loya, Loya ! ”* a voice cried, “ the 
 Ta-Hosan (higli-priest) wants to go to bed." 
 “Well,” said I, “come along, the door is not 
 locked.” “ But he has not had his supper yet,” 
 another voice replied. “ Tell him to go and get it 
 then, as quickly as possible, for I do not wish to 
 be disturbed after I go to sleep.” 
 
 The fatigue of climbing the mountain-pass, and 
 the healthy fresh air of the mountains, soon sent 
 me to sleep, and I dare say the priest might have 
 walked through the room without my knowing 
 anything about it. How long I slept I know not, 
 
 * Mode of addressing mandarins and high government officers — a 
 term of respect. 
 
272 
 
 ADVENTURE WITH A PRIEST. Chap. XIII. 
 
 for the room was quite dark ; but I was awakened 
 by the same voices which had addressed me before, 
 and again informed that the Ta-Hosan wanted to 
 come to bed. 
 
 “Well, well, come to bed and let me have no 
 more of your noise,” said I, being at the time half- 
 asleep and half-awake ; and going off sound again 
 immediately I heard no more. Next morning, 
 when T awoke, the day was just beginning to 
 dawn, and daylight was streaming through the 
 paper window and rendering the tables and chairs 
 in the apartment partially visible. The proceed- 
 ings of the evening seemed to have got mixed up 
 somehow with my dreams, but as they became 
 gradually distinct to the mind, and separated, I 
 began to wonder whether my friend the priest had 
 occupied his bedroom during the night. The door 
 was closed and seemed in the same state in which 
 I left it when I went to bed, and I cou ] d hear no 
 sound of anything breathing or moving through 
 the thin parti tion-wall which divided our rooms. 
 In order to satisfy myself I gently opened the 
 door and looked in. But no priest was there. 
 The bed had been prepared, and the padded cover- 
 let carefully folded for his recej3tion, but all re- 
 mained in the same condition, and showed plainly 
 that no one had occupied the room during the 
 night. 
 
 Tung-a now made his appearance with my 
 morning cup of tea. It turned out on inquiry 
 that the poor old priest could not get over his 
 
Chap. XIII. SANATARIUM FOR MISSIONARIES. 
 
 273 
 
 superstitious dread of me ; lie was anxious to get 
 to his own bed, and liad striven bard to accom- 
 plish bis object ; but it was quite beyond bis 
 power. It was now easy enough to account for 
 bis conduct at my window the night previous. 
 When it was found be could not conquer bis fears 
 a brother priest gave him a share of bis bed, and I 
 bad been left to the undisturbed repose which I 
 greatly required. 
 
 The valley of Tsan-tsin, as I have already 
 stated, is high up amongst the mountains, some 
 1500 or 2000 feet above the level of the sea. It 
 is completely surrounded by mountains, many of 
 them apparently from 3000 to 4000 feet high. 
 Even in the hot summer months, although warm 
 during the day in the sun, the evenings, nights, 
 and mornings, are comparatively cool. At this 
 time of the year the southwest monsoon is blow- 
 ing, but ere it reaches the valley it passes over a 
 large tract of high mountains, and consequently 
 gets cooled on its course. This appears to be the 
 reason why the country, even at the foot of the 
 mountains here, is cooler than further down in the 
 Ningpo valley. 
 
 I have frequently thought this would make an 
 admirable sanitary station for the numerous mis- 
 sionaries and other foreigners who live at Ningpo. 
 Could the Chinese authorities be induced to allow 
 them to build a small bungalow or two in the 
 valley, they might thus have a cool and healthy 
 retreat to fly to in case of sickness. It is easy of 
 
274 
 
 ABIES KiEMPFERI. 
 
 Chap. XIII. 
 
 access even to invalids, and conld be reached in a 
 day and a half, or at most two days from Ning'po. 
 
 I have already noticed a new cedar or larch-tree 
 named Abies Kcempferi discovered amongst these 
 mountains. I had been acquainted with this inte- 
 
 Larch Tree. 
 
 resting tree for several years in China, hut only in 
 gardens, and as a pot plant in a dwarfed state. 
 The Chinese, by their favourite system of dwarf- 
 ing, contrive to make it, when only a foot and 
 a half or two feet high, have all the characters of 
 
Chap. XIII. 
 
 ABIES K2EMPFERI. 
 
 275 
 
 an aged cedar of Lebanon. It is called by them 
 the Kin-le-sung , or Golden Pine, probably from 
 the rich yellow appearance which the ripened 
 leaves and cones assume in the autumn. Although 
 I had often made enquiries after it, and endea- 
 voured to get the natives to bring me some cones, 
 or to take me to a place where such cones could 
 be procured, I met with no success until the pre- 
 vious autumn, when I had passed by the temple 
 from another part of the country. Their stems, 
 which I measured, were fully five feet in circum- 
 ference two feet from the ground, and carried this 
 size, with a slight diminution, to a height of 50 
 feet, that being the height of the lower branches. 
 The total height I estimated about 120 or 130 
 feet. The stems were perfectly straight through- 
 out, the branches symmetrical, slightly inclined to 
 the horizontal form, and having the appearance 
 of something between the cedar and larch. The 
 long branchless stems were, no doubt, the result of 
 their growing close together and thickly sur- 
 rounded with other trees, for I have since seen a 
 single specimen growing by itself on a mountain 
 side at a much higher elevation, whose lower 
 branches almost touched the ground. This speci- 
 men I shall notice by-and-by. 
 
 I need scarcely say how pleased I was with the 
 discovery I had made, or with what delight, with 
 the permission and assistance of the good priests, 
 I procured a large supply of those curious cones 
 sent to England in the winter of 1853. 
 
 u 
 
276 
 
 ABIES K2EMPFERI. 
 
 Chap. XIII. 
 
 I now lost no time in visiting the spot of my 
 last year’s discovery. The trees were there as 
 beautiful and symmetrical as ever, but after strain- 
 ing my eyes for half-an-hour I could not detect a 
 single cone. I returned to the temple and men- 
 tioned my disappointment to the priests, and 
 asked them whether it was possible to procure 
 cones from any other part of the country. They 
 told me of various places where there were trees, 
 but whether these had seed upon them or not they 
 could not say. They further consoled me with a 
 piece of information, which, although I was most 
 unwilling to believe it, I knew to be most likely 
 too true, namely, that this tree rarely bore cones 
 two years successively, that last year was its 
 bearing year, and that this one it was barren. A 
 respectable looking man, who was on a visit to the 
 temple, now came up to me and said that he knew 
 a place where a large number of trees were grow- 
 ing, and that if I would visit the temple to which 
 he belonged he would take me to this spot, and 
 that there I would probably find what I wanted. 
 I immediately took down the name of his re- 
 sidence, which he told me was Quan-ting, a place 
 about twenty le distant from the temple in which 
 I was domiciled, and at a much higher elevation 
 on the mountains. After making an appointment 
 for next day he took his leave of me with great 
 politeness, and returned to his home. 
 
 Having procured a guide for Quan-ting, I set 
 out early next day to visit my new acquaintance. 
 
Chap. XIII. 
 
 BAMBOO WOODS. 
 
 277 
 
 Leaving the temple of Tsan-tsing, our way led up 
 a steep pass, paved with granite stones. On each 
 side of the road were forests of fine bamboos — the 
 variety called by the Chinese Maou , the finest I 
 ever saw. The forests are very valuable, not only 
 on account of. the demand for the full-grown bam- 
 boos, but also for the young shoots, which are dug 
 up and sold in the markets in the early part of the 
 season. Here, too, were dense woods of Crypto- 
 meria, Cunninghamia lanceolata, oaks, chesnuts, and 
 such like representatives of a cold or temperate 
 climate. 
 
 On the road up the mountain pass I met long 
 trains of coolies, heavily laden with bamboos, and 
 on their way to the plains. The weight of the 
 loads which these men carry is perfectly astonish- 
 ing ; even little boys were met carrying loads 
 which I found some difficulty in lifting. All these 
 people are accustomed to this work from their 
 earliest years, and this is no doubt one of the 
 reasons why they are able to carry such heavy 
 loads. 
 
 This fine bamboo may be regarded as a staple 
 production amongst these mountains, and one of 
 great value to the natives. In the spring and 
 early summer months its young shoots furnish a 
 large supply of food of a kind much esteemed by 
 the Chinese. At that time of the year the same 
 long trains of coolies which I had just met carry- 
 ing the trees, may then be seen loaded with the 
 young shoots. The trees in the autumn and the 
 
 u 2 
 
278 
 
 MAGNIFICENT SCENERY. 
 
 Chap. XIII. 
 
 young shoots in spring, are carried down to the 
 nearest navigable stream, where they are put on 
 rafts, or in small flat-bottomed boats, and conveyed 
 a few miles down until the water becomes deep 
 enough to be navigated by the common boats of 
 the country. They are then transferred into the 
 larger boats, and in them conveyed to the popu- 
 lous towns and cities in the plain, where they 
 always find a ready sale. Thus this valuable tree, 
 which is cultivated at scarcely any expense, gives 
 employment and food to the natives of these 
 mountains for nearly one-half the year. All the 
 way up the mountain passes the axe of the wood- 
 man was heard cutting down the trees. In many 
 parts the mountains were steep enough for the 
 trees to slide down to the road without any more 
 labour than that required to set them in motion. 
 
 When I reached the top of this pass I got into 
 a long narrow valley — the valley of Poo-in-chee — 
 where the road was nearly on a level. This 
 valley must be nearly 1000 feet higher than 
 Tsan-tsing, or between two and three thousand 
 feet above the level of the plain. At the top of 
 the mountain-pass, and just before entering this 
 valley, some most glorious views were obtained. 
 Behind, before, and on my left hand, there was 
 nothing but steep and rugged mountains covered 
 with grass and brushwood, but untouched by the 
 hand of man, while far down below in a deep 
 dell, a little stream was dashing over its rocky 
 bed and hurrying onwards to swell the river in 
 
Chap. XIII. 
 
 NATIVES OF POO-IN-CHEE. 
 
 279 
 
 the plain with its clear, cool waters. A little 
 further on, when I looked to my right hand, a 
 view of another kind, even grander still, met my 
 eye. An opening in the mountain exposed to 
 view the valley of Ningpo lying far below me, 
 and stretching away to the eastward for some 
 thirty miles, where it meets the ocean, and ap- 
 peared bounded by the islands in the Chusan 
 Archipelago. Its cities, villages, and pagodas 
 were dimly seen in the distance, while its noble 
 river was observed winding through the plain 
 and bearing on its surface hundreds of boats, hur- 
 rying to and fro, and carrying on the commerce 
 of the country. The picture was grand and sub- 
 lime, and the impression produced by it then must 
 ever remain engraved on my mind. 
 
 The village of Poo-in-chee is a straggling little 
 place and contains but few inhabitants. Many of 
 these mountaineers — indeed, the greater part of 
 them — had never seen a foreigner in their lives. 
 As I approached the village the excitement 
 amongst them was very great. Every living 
 thing — men, women, and children, dogs, and cats 
 — seemed to turn out to look at me. Many of 
 them, judging from the expression on their coun- 
 tenances, were not entirely free from fear. “ I 
 might be harmless, but it was just as possible I 
 might be a cannibal, or somewhat like a tiger.” 
 In circumstances of this kind it is always best to 
 take matters coolly and quietly. Observing a 
 respectable-looking old man sitting in front of one 
 
280 
 
 THE QUAN-TING VALLEY. 
 
 Chap. XIII. 
 
 of the best houses in the village, I went up to 
 him and politely asked him if he “ had eaten his 
 rice.” He called out immediately to a boy to 
 bring me a chair, and begged me to rest a little 
 before I proceeded on my journey. As usual, tea 
 was brought and set before me. As I chatted 
 away with the old man, the natives gathered 
 confidence and crowded round us in great num- 
 bers. Their fears soon left them when they found 
 I was much like one of themselves, although 
 without a tail. Everything about me was exam- 
 ined and criticised with the greatest minuteness. 
 My hat, my clothes, my shoes, and particularly 
 my watch, were all objects which attracted their 
 attention. I took all this in good part, answered 
 all their questions, and I trust when I left them 
 their opinion of the character of foreigners had 
 somewhat changed. 
 
 Another mountain-pass had now to be got over, 
 nearly as high as the last one. When the top 
 of this was gained, I found I was now on the 
 summit of the highest range in this part of the 
 country. Our road now winded along the tops 
 of the mountains at this elevation for several 
 miles, and at last descended into the Quan-ting 
 valley, for which I was bound. This was some- 
 what like the Poo-in-chee valley just described, and 
 apparently about the same elevation. 
 
 Having reached the temple, I had no difficulty 
 in finding my acquaintance of the previous day, 
 Mr. Wang-a-nok, as he called himself. It now 
 
Chap. XIII. 
 
 THE GOLDEN BELL. 
 
 281 
 
 appeared he was a celebrated cook — the Soyer 
 of the district — and had been engaged on this 
 day to prepare a large dinner for a number of 
 visitors who had come to worship at the temple. 
 He told me he would be ready to accompany me 
 as soon as the dinner was over, and invited me 
 to be seated in the priest’s room until that time. 
 As there was nothing in the temple of much 
 interest, I preferred taking a stroll amongst the 
 hills. Before I set out I made inquiry of Wang 
 and the priest whether there were any objects of 
 interest in the vicinity more particularly worth 
 my attention. I was told there was one place of 
 more than common interest, which I ought to see, 
 and at the same time several persons offered to 
 accompany me as guides. We then started off to 
 inspect the new wonder, whatever it might turn 
 out to be. 
 
 A short distance in the rear of the temple my 
 guides halted at the edge of a little pool, which 
 was surrounded with a few willows and other 
 stunted bushes. They now pointed to the little 
 pool, and informed me this was what they had 
 brought me to see. “ Is this all ? ” said I, with 
 features which, no doubt, expressed astonishment ; 
 “ I see nothing here but a small pond, with a 
 few water-lilies and other weeds on its surface.” 
 “ Oh, but there is a golden bell in that pool,” they 
 replied. I laughed, and asked them if they had 
 seen it, and why they did not attempt to get it 
 out. They replied that none of them had seen 
 
282 
 
 CHINESE TRADITIONS. 
 
 Chap. XIII. 
 
 it, and that it was impossible to get it out ; but 
 that it was there, nevertheless, they firmly be- 
 lieved. I confess I was a good deal surprised, 
 and was half inclined to think my friends were 
 having a good-humoured joke at my expense, but 
 again, when I looked in their faces, I could detect 
 nothing of this kind expressed in any of their coun- 
 tenances. Much puzzled with this curiosity , and not 
 being able to gain any information calculated to 
 unravel the mystery, I determined to keep the 
 subject in mind, and endeavour to get an expla- 
 nation from some one who was better informed 
 than these countrymen appeared to be. 
 
 A short time after this I happened to meet a 
 Chinese gentleman who had travelled a great deal 
 in many parts of his own country, and whose 
 intelligence was of a higher order than that of 
 his countrymen generally. To this man I applied 
 for a solution of the Kin-chung, or golden bell. 
 When I had described what I had seen at Quan- 
 ting, he laughed heartily, and informed me that 
 it was simply a superstition or tradition which 
 had been handed down from one generation to 
 another, and that the ignorant believed in the 
 existence of such things although they did not 
 endeavour to account for them. He further in- 
 formed me such traditions were very common 
 throughout China, particularly about Buddhists’ 
 temples and other remarkable places visited by 
 the natives for devotional purposes. Thus, at the 
 falls in the Snowy Valley, which I have already 
 
Chap. XIII. 
 
 THE TEMPLE OF QUAN-TING. 
 
 283 
 
 noticed, there was said to be a Heang-loo , or 
 incense burner, of fabulous size, which no one bad 
 ever seen or were likely to see ; and a large white 
 horse was said to reside somewhere in the moun- 
 tain called T‘hae-bah-san, which rises to the height 
 of 2000 feet behind the old monastery of Tein- 
 tung. All these were simply traditionary stories, 
 which are believed by the vulgar and ignorant, 
 but, as my informant said, are laughed at by men 
 of education and sound sense. 
 
 Not being able to find the golden bell, and as 
 the sight of the spot where it was supposed to be 
 had not produced the impression which my com- 
 panions and guides had supposed it would, they 
 dropped off, one by one, and returned to the 
 temple, while I was left alone to ramble amongst 
 the wild scenes of these mountains. There was, 
 however, little time to spare, and I was most 
 anxious to secure the services of Mr. Wang the 
 moment he had finished his culinary operations. 
 I, therefore, returned to the temple, and arrived 
 there soon after the group who had taken me to 
 see the golden bell. I found them explaining to 
 the priests and other visitors how disappointed I 
 had been, and how incredulous I was as to the 
 existence of the said bell itself. 
 
 The temple of Quan-ting has no pretensions as 
 regards size, and appeared to be in a most dilapi- 
 dated condition. In one of the principal halls I 
 observed a table spread and covered with many 
 good things, which were intended as an offering 
 
284 
 
 MR. WANG. 
 
 Chai\ XIII. 
 
 to Buddha. The expected visitors, who appeared 
 to be the farmers and other respectable inhabi- 
 tants of the neighbourhood, were arriving in con- 
 siderable numbers, and each one as he came in 
 prostrated himself in front of the table. 
 
 As the valley in which the temple is placed is 
 fully 3000 feet above the sea, I felt the air most 
 piercingly cold, although it was only the middle 
 of October, and hot enough in the plains in the 
 daytime. So cold was it that at last I was 
 obliged to take refuge in the kitchen, where Mr. 
 Wang was busy with his preparations for the 
 dinner, and where several fires were burning. 
 This place had no chimney, so the smoke had 
 to find its way out through the doors, windows, or 
 broken roof, or, in fact, any way it could. My 
 position here was, therefore, far from being an 
 enviable one, although I got a little warmth from 
 the fires. I was, therefore, glad when dinner was 
 announced, as there was then some prospect of 
 being able to get the services of Mr. W ang. The 
 priests and some of the visitors now came and 
 invited me to dine with them, and, although I was 
 unwilling, they almost dragged me to the table. 
 In the dining-room, which was the same, by- 
 the-bye, in which they were worshipping on my 
 arrival, I found four tables placed, at one of which 
 I was to sit down, and I was evidently considered 
 the lion of the party. They pressed me to eat 
 and to drink, and although I could not comply 
 with their wishes to the fullest extent, I did the 
 
Chap. XIII. 
 
 JOURNEY WITH MR. WANG. 
 
 285 
 
 best I could to merit sucb kindness and politeness. 
 But I shall not attempt a description of a Chinese 
 dinner which, like the dinner itself, would he 
 necessarily a long one, and will only say that, 
 like all good things, it came to an end at last, and 
 Mr. Wang having finished his in the kitchen and 
 taken a supply in his pockets, declared himself 
 ready for my service. 
 
 Our road led us up to the head of the valley in 
 which the tenrple stands, and then it seemed as if 
 all further passage was stopped by high moun- 
 tain harriers. As we got nearer, however, I 
 observed a path winding up round the mountain, 
 and by this road we reached the top of a range of 
 mountains fully a thousand feet higher than any 
 we had passed, or 4000 feet above the sea. 
 When we reached the top the view that met our 
 eyes on all sides rewarded us richly for all the 
 toil of the morning. I had seen nothing so grand 
 as this since my journey across the Bohea moun- 
 tains. On all sides, in whichever direction I 
 looked, nothing was seen but mountains of various 
 heights and forms, reminding one of the waves of 
 a stormy sea. Far below us, in various directions, 
 appeared richly cultivated and well wooded val- 
 leys ; but they seemed so far off, and in some 
 places the hills were so precipitous, that it made 
 me giddy to look down. On the top where we 
 were there was nothing but stunted brushwood, 
 but, here and there, where the slopes were gentle, 
 I observed a thatched hut and some spots of culti- 
 
286 
 
 A DISAPPOINTMENT. 
 
 Chap. XIII. 
 
 vation. At this height I met with some lycopods, 
 gentians, and other plants not observed at a 
 lower elevation. I also found a hydrangea in a 
 leafless state, which may turn out a new species, 
 and which I have introduced to Europe. If it 
 proves to be an ornamental species it will probably 
 prove quite hardy in England. 
 
 We had left the highest point of the mountain 
 ridge, and were gradually descending, when on 
 rounding a point I observed at a distance a slop- 
 ing hill covered with the beautiful object of our 
 search — the Abies Kcempferi. Many of the trees 
 were young, and all had apparently been planted 
 by man ; at least, so far as I could observe, they 
 had nothing of a natural forest character about 
 them. One tree in particular seemed the queen 
 of the forest, from its great size and beauty, and 
 to that we bent our steps. It was standing all 
 alone, measured 8 feet in circumference, was fully 
 130 feet high, and its lower branches were nearly 
 touching the ground. The lower branches had 
 assumed a flat and horizontal form, and came out 
 almost at right angles with the stem, but the 
 upper part of the tree was of a conical shape, 
 resembling more a larch than a cedar of Lebanon. 
 But there were no cones even on this or on any 
 of the others, although the natives informed us 
 they had been loaded with them on the previous 
 year. I had, therefore, to content myself with 
 digging up a few self-sown young plants which 
 grew near it; these were afterwards planted in 
 
Chap. XIIT. 
 
 THE ABIES K/EMPFERI. 
 
 287 
 
 Ward’s cases and sent to England, where they 
 arrived in good condition. 
 
 I now parted from my friend Mr. Wang, who 
 returned to his mountain home at Quan-ting, 
 while I and my guide pursued our journey to- 
 wards the temple at which I was staying by a 
 different route from that by which we had come. 
 The road led us through the same kind of 
 scenery which I have endeavoured to describe — 
 mountains ; nothing but mountains, deep valleys, 
 and granite and clay-slate rocks — now bleak and 
 barren, and now richly covered with forests chiefly 
 consisting of oaks and pines. We arrived at the 
 monastery just as it was getting dark. My friends, 
 the priests, were waiting at the entrance, and 
 anxiously inquired what success had attended us 
 during the day. I told them the trees at Quan- 
 ting were just like their own — destitute of cones. 
 “ Ah ! ” said they, for my consolation, “ next year 
 there will be plenty.” 
 
 I cannot agree with Dr. Lindley in calling this 
 an Abies, unless cedars and larches are also re- 
 ferred to the same genus. It is apparently a 
 plant exactly intermediate between the cedar and 
 larch ; that is, it lias deciduous scales like the 
 cedar and deciduous leaves like the larch, and a 
 habit somewhat of the one and somewhat of the 
 other. However, it is a noble tree ; it produces 
 excellent timber, will be very ornamental in park 
 scenery, and I have no doubt will prove perfectly 
 hardy in England. 
 
288 
 
 CHINESE PIRATES. 
 
 Chap. XIII. 
 
 I had been more successful in procuring sup- 
 plies of tea and other seeds and plants for the 
 Himalayas than I had been in my search for the 
 seeds of the new tree just noticed. Large supplies 
 had been got together at Ningpo at various times 
 during the summer and autumn, and these were 
 now ready to be packed and shipped for India. 
 For this purpose it was necessary to proceed to 
 Shanghae ; but to get there in safety was no easy 
 matter at this time, owing to the numerous bands 
 of pirates which were then infesting the coasts. 
 The Chinese navy either would not, or perhaps 
 it would be more correct to say they durst not, 
 make the attempt to put them down. Hence, 
 while these lawless gentry were ravaging the 
 coast, the brave Chinese admirals and captains 
 were lying quietly at anchor in the rivers and 
 other safe places where the pirates did not care 
 to show themselves. 
 
 In going up and down this dangerous coast I was 
 greatly indebted to Mr. Percival, the managing 
 partner of Messrs. Jardine Matheson and Co.’s 
 house at Shanghae, and to Mr. Patridge, who 
 had the charge of the business of that house at 
 Ningpo. By their kindness I was always at 
 liberty to take a passage in the “ Erin,” a boat 
 kept constantly running up and down in order to 
 keep up the communication between the two ports. 
 This boat was well manned and armed, and, more- 
 over, she was the fastest which sailed out of 
 Ningpo. The Chinese pirates knew her well : 
 
Chap. XIII. 
 
 ADVENTURE WITH PIRATES. 
 
 289 
 
 they also knew that her crew would fight, and 
 that they had the means to do so, and although 
 she often carried a cargo of great value, I never 
 knew of her being really attacked, although she 
 was frequently threatened. 
 
 On this occasion, as usual, I availed myself of 
 Mr. Patridge’s kindness, and had all my collections 
 put on hoard of the “ Brin.” My fellow-passengers 
 were the Rev. John Hobson, the Shangliae chap- 
 lain, and family, and the Rev. Mr. Burdon, of the 
 Church Missionary Society, who had also secured 
 passages in the “ Erin ” in order to escape falling 
 into the hands of the pirates. 
 
 Leaving Ningpo at daybreak, with the ebb-tide 
 and a fair wind, we sailed rapidly down the river, 
 and in three hours we were off the fort of Chinhae, 
 where the river falls into the sea. As we passed 
 Chinhae anchorage a number of boats got up their 
 anchors and stood out to sea along with us, proba- 
 bly with the view of protecting each other, and 
 getting that protection from the “ Brin ” which 
 her presence afforded. When we had got well out 
 of the river, and opened up the northern passage, 
 a sight was presented to view which was well 
 calculated to excite alarm for our safety. Several 
 piratical lorchas and junks were blockading the 
 passage between the mainland and Silver Island, 
 and seizing every vessel that attempted to pass in 
 or out of the river. These vessels were armed to 
 the teeth, and manned with as great a set of rascals 
 as could be found on the coast of China. 
 
290 
 
 ADVENTURE WITH PIRATES. 
 
 Chap. XIII. 
 
 These lawless hordes went to work in the follow- 
 ing manner. They concealed themselves behind 
 the islands or headlands until the unfortunate junk 
 or boat they determined to pounce upon had got 
 almost abreast of them, and too far to put about 
 and get out of their way. They then stood boldly 
 out and fired into her in order to bring her to ; 
 at the same time hooting and yelling like demons 
 as they are. The unfortunate vessel sees her posi- 
 tion when too late ; in the most of instances resist- 
 ance is not attempted, and she becomes an easy 
 prize. If resistance has not been made, and no 
 lives lost to the pirate, the captain and crew of the 
 captured vessel are treated kindly, although they 
 are generally plundered of everything in their 
 possession to which the pirates take a fancy. 
 
 The jan-dows, as the pirates are called, have 
 their dens in out-of-the-way anchorages amongst 
 the islands, and to these places they take their 
 unfortunate prizes, either to be plundered or to be 
 ransomed for large sums by their owners at Ningpo, 
 according to circumstances. Negociations are im- 
 mediately commenced ; messengers pass to and fro 
 between the outlaws at the piratical stations, only 
 a few miles from the mouth of the river, and the 
 rich ship-owners at Ningpo ; and these negocia- 
 tions are sometimes carried on for weeks ere a 
 satisfactory arrangement can be made between the 
 parties concerned. And it will scarcely be credited 
 - — but it is true nevertheless — that within a few 
 miles from where these pirates with their prizes are 
 
Chap. XIII. 
 
 ADVENTURE WITH PIRATES. 
 
 291 
 
 at anchor there are numerous Chinese “ rnen-of- 
 war ( ! ) manned and armed for the service of 
 their country. 
 
 Many of the boats which had weighed anchor 
 as we passed Chingliae put about and went back 
 to their anchorage. The little “ Erin,” however, 
 with several others, stood boldly onwards in the 
 direction of the piratical fleet, and were soon in 
 the midst of it. At this time some of them were 
 engaged in capturing a Shantung junk which had 
 fallen into the trap they had laid for her. We 
 were so near some of the others that I could dis- 
 tinctly see the features of the men, and what they 
 were doing on the decks of their vessels. They 
 seemed to be watching us very narrowly, and in 
 one vessel the crew were getting their guns to 
 bear upon our boat. They were perfectly quiet, 
 however ; no hooting or yelling was heard, and as 
 these are the usual preludes to an attack it was 
 just possible they were prepared to act on the 
 defensive only. 
 
 The whole scene was in the highest degree 
 exciting ; their guns were manned, the torch was 
 ready to be applied to the touchhole, and any 
 moment we might be saluted with a cannon-ball 
 or a shower of grape. Our gallant little boat, 
 however, kept on her way, nor deviated in the 
 slightest degree from her proper course. The 
 steersman stood fast to the helm, the master — 
 Andrew, a brave Swede — walked on the top of 
 the house which was built over three-parts of the 
 
 x 
 
292 
 
 ADVENTURE WITH PIRATES. 
 
 Ciiap. XIII. 
 
 (leek, and the passengers crowded the deck in 
 front of the house. Every eye was fixed upon 
 the motions of the pirates. 
 
 When our excitement was at the highest pitch 
 the pirates hoisted a signal, which was a welcome 
 sight to our crew, and although I have, perhaps, 
 as much bravery as the generality of people, I 
 confess it was a welcome sight to myself. The 
 signal which produced such results was neither 
 more nor less than a Chinaman’s jacket hoisted 
 in the rigging. I believe any other article of 
 clothing would do equally well. It will not be 
 found in Marryat’s code, hut its meaning is, “ Let 
 us alone and we will let you.” This amicable 
 arrangement was readily agreed to ; a jacket was 
 hoisted in our rigging as a friendly reply to the 
 pirates, and we passed through their lines un- 
 harmed. 
 
 During the time they were in sight we observed 
 several vessels from the north fall into their hands. 
 They were in such numbers, and their plans were 
 so well laid, that nothing that passed in daylight 
 could possibly escape. Long after we had lost 
 sight of their vessels we saw and pitied the un- 
 suspecting northern junks running down with a 
 fair wind and all sail into the trap which had 
 been prepared for them. 
 
 We experienced head- winds nearly the whole 
 way, and, consequently, made a long passage, and 
 had frequently to anchor. I rather think Andrew 
 attributed this luck to the two clergymen we had 
 
Chap. XIII. 
 
 ADVENTURE WITH PIRATES. 
 
 293 
 
 on board ; but if he did be may be excused, for 
 wiser beads than his have had their prejudices on 
 this point. Whatever luck we had as regards the 
 weather we were certainly most fortunate in get- 
 ting so well out of the hands of the pirates, and 
 in fairness this ought to be taken into con- 
 sideration. 
 
 x 2 
 
294 
 
 COLLECTIONS SHIPPED FOR INDIA. Chap. XIV. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Season’s collections shipped for India — Ancient porcelain vase — 
 Chinese dealers — Joined by two friends — Inland journey — City 
 of Yu-yaou — Fine rice district — Appearance and conduct of 
 natives — Laughable occurrence with an avaricious boatman — Soil 
 and rocks of district — Village of Ne-ka-loo and Chinese inn — 
 Shores of the hay of Hang-chow — Salt and its manufacture — 
 Curious moonlight journey — Rapid tides — Passage junk — Voyage 
 across the hay — Chinese sailors — Arrive at Kan-poo. 
 
 During tlie succeeding winter and spring months 
 I was engaged in packing and dispatching to India 
 and Europe the numerous collections of plants, 
 seeds, and other objects of natural history which I 
 had formed in the summer and autumn. Large 
 quantities of implements used in the manufacture 
 of tea were also sent to India at this time, destined 
 for the government plantations in the Himalayas 
 and Punjab. I had been unceasing in my endea- 
 vours to procure some first-rate black-tea makers 
 from the best districts in the interior of the pro- 
 vinces of Fokien and Kiangse, but up to this time 
 I had not succeeded. This was by far the most 
 difficult part of my mission, but as the services of 
 such men were absolutely necessary in order to 
 carry on the great tea experiment which the 
 government of India had in hand, I determined 
 not to leave China until I had accomplished the 
 
Chap. XIV. 
 
 ANCIENT PORCELAIN VASE. 
 
 295 
 
 object in view. As all tlie details concerning tea- 
 plants, implements, and manufactures, may not 
 have the same interest to the reader as they had 
 to myself I shall skip a few pages of my journal 
 and go on to where the narrative is more in- 
 teresting. 
 
 In the month of April, 1855, I paid another 
 visit to the old city of Tse-kee. My boat was 
 moored in a canal near the north gate of the city, 
 and I had been a prisoner for several days on 
 account of a heavy and continuous fall of rain. 
 One morning, soon after daylight, and before the 
 boatmen or my servants were out of bed, a Chinese 
 merchant, who made a living by selling old books 
 and curiosities, paid me a visit, and informed me 
 he had an ancient porcelain vase for sale which 
 was well worthy of my attention. The heavy rain 
 was beating on the roof of the boat, which pre- 
 vented me from having the politeness to open it 
 and ask the man inside. I therefore opened the 
 little sliding window and called out that I would 
 pay him a visit when fine weather came. This 
 proceeding, however, would not satisfy him, and 
 he insisted that I should go with him at once. To 
 encourage me he pointed to his large Chinese boots 
 studded with heavy nails, and said if I had a pair 
 of them to put on they would protect me from the 
 wet and mud in the streets. I had nothing of the 
 kind, but as I had been making from time to time 
 large collections of ancient porcelain vases and 
 other works of art of an early period, I felt a 
 
296 
 
 ANCIENT PORCELAIN VASE. 
 
 Chap. XIY. 
 
 strong inclination to see this one, and therefore 
 consented to accompany him to his house. On the 
 way the rain fell in torrents ; many parts of the 
 streets were ankle deep in water, and as the houses 
 are not furnished with gutters, as with us, to carry 
 off the rain, it pours down upon the head of the 
 unlucky passenger without mercy. 
 
 When we reached the house my conductor called 
 out to his wife to bring me some warm tea, and as 
 I was sipping this he produced his vase. It was a 
 beautiful specimen of its kind, very fine in form, 
 of a blue colour, and richly enamelled with houses, 
 flowers, and Chinese characters, in gold. It was 
 no doubt ancient, and quite perfect. The Chinese 
 as a people are first-rate physiognomists : they can 
 tell at a glance whether their wares take one’s 
 fancy, and vary their prices accordingly. I had 
 long been accustomed to this, and invariably in 
 my dealings with them tried to prevent them from 
 reading any admiration or anxiety in my counte- 
 nance when I intended to buy. When the vase in 
 question was exposed to my admiring gaze its 
 owner gazed intently into my face and asked me 
 in a triumphant manner what I thought of it ? I 
 told him it was pretty good, and perfect, but that 
 it was too large for me, and then asked in a care- 
 less way what its value was. He hesitated for 
 some few seconds, evidently not quite certain what 
 sum to name ; at last he said that the true price 
 was eighty dollars, but that if I wanted it he would 
 let me have it for sixty— a sum equal to about 20/. 
 
Chap. XIY. 
 
 JOINED BY TWO FRIENDS. 
 
 297 
 
 according to the rate of exchange at the time. 
 Being a pretty good judge of the value of such 
 things I knew the price asked was absurd, and did 
 not make him an offer, although he pressed me 
 very hard to do this. At the same time I had 
 made up my mind to have the vase. The vendors 
 of these ancient works of art in China have rarely 
 any fixed price, and will not scruple to ask ten 
 times the true value, which, if they are lucky 
 enough to get, they do not scruple to laugh at the 
 simpleton who gives it. 
 
 On my way hack to my boat a man came up to 
 me in the street and, greatly to my surprise, put a 
 pencil note into my hand. This was from two 
 friends, Messrs. W alkinshaw and Smith, who had 
 found out on their arrival in the province that I 
 was sojourning near Tse-kee, and had determined 
 to join me for the sake of seeing a little of the 
 country. As Mr. W alkinshaw had a good collec- 
 tion of ancient vases, and was almost as fond of 
 collecting as I was, he expressed a wish to see the 
 one I have just been describing. When the rain 
 cleared off we went into the city and called upon 
 my friend of the morning. The vase was again 
 produced, and was much admired by Mr. Walkin- 
 shaw. We could not succeed in inducing its 
 owner to part with it at the time, but some months 
 afterwards I bought it for nine dollars, and it 
 now adorns Mr. Walkinshaw’s drawing-room in 
 Canton ; or rather it did so some time ago. 
 
 Having nothing more to do in the Ningpo dis- 
 
298 
 
 INLAND JOURNEY. 
 
 Chap. XIV. 
 
 trict until the autumn I determined to pay a visit 
 to the great silk country of Hoo-cliow, and to the 
 hills on the western side of the plain of the Yang- 
 tse-kiang, a country which was entirely new to me. 
 My two friends had employed their time well dur- 
 ing the few days they had to spare about Ningpo. 
 They had visited the snowy valley and waterfalls, 
 and various other places of interest which I have 
 already noticed in these pages, and they were now 
 ready to go northward to Shanghae. 
 
 In leaving Ningpo for Shanghae we determined 
 to take the inland route, via Kan-poo (or Cam-poo), 
 a town situated on the shores of the bay of Hang- 
 chow, and about midway between that city and the 
 seaport of Chapoo. Having engaged boats we left 
 Ningpo with the first of the flood-tide and pro- 
 ceeded up the northern branch of the river in the 
 direction of the ancient city of Yu-yaou. 
 
 In our passage up the river there was nothing 
 seen worthy of particular notice. We were fa- 
 voured with a fair wind between Ningpo and Yu- 
 yaou, and reached that city in about twenty-four 
 hours from the time of starting. As our boatmen 
 expected to he paid hack-fare, and as that fare 
 would he allowed them for the same number of 
 days taken to accomplish our journey, they had no 
 interest in getting quickly onward. On the con- 
 trary, they looked on the fair wind we had ex- 
 perienced as a great misfortune. We reached Yu- 
 yaou several hours before nightfall, but our boat- 
 men having evidently made up their minds to stay 
 
Chap. X1Y. 
 
 CITY OF YU-YAOU. 
 
 299 
 
 there for the night objected to proceed onwards. 
 They gave as a reason that night was coming on, 
 and they did not know the way after dark. Un- 
 fortunately for their logic it was only about four 
 o’clock in the afternoon, and, consequently, we 
 had four hours of daylight before us. I therefore 
 told them that what they said might he perfectly 
 true — I doubted it myself — yet we could go on 
 until it became dark and then we would stop for 
 the night. To this they demurred for some time, 
 but eventually, by coaxing and threatening, they 
 were induced to proceed onwards. 
 
 Previous to this discussion we had landed and 
 paid a visit to the city. It consists of two por- 
 tions, or rather there are two cities, one on the 
 south side of the river and the other on the north. 
 The city on the south side appears to be very an- 
 cient, and is now in ruins ; its walls are broken 
 down and covered with weeds and brushwood. 
 The one on the north side, although old, is of a 
 more modern date, and appeared to he in a flou- 
 rishing condition. Its walls enclose a hill about 
 300 feet in height, on which there is a temple dedi- 
 cated to a minister of state who flourished in the 
 Ming dynasty. In as far as I know, the city is 
 not famous for anything particular in the arts, 
 and we saw nothing of importance as we passed 
 through its streets. 
 
 After passing the city our boats left the main 
 stream and turned into a canal on its left bank. 
 When we had proceeded a few miles along the 
 
300 
 
 FINE RICE DISTRICT. 
 
 Chap. XIV. 
 
 canal we came to another on a higher level, and 
 had our boats drawn up an inclined plane by 
 means of two rude windlasses. Here a fresh diffi- 
 culty awaited us. This canal was so full, owing to 
 the late rains, that our boats could not pass under 
 the bridges without having the roofs taken off. 
 As it was now nearly dark, we made up our minds 
 to remain here for the night, and make a fresh 
 start early next morning. 
 
 The natives in the surrounding villages now 
 came flocking to our boats in great numbers. They 
 seemed a more respectable set than most of the 
 country Chinese with whom I have been in the 
 habit of mixing. They were well clothed, appa- 
 rently well fed, and had a cleanly appearance 
 about them, which, it must be confessed, is rather 
 rare in country districts in China. Their houses, 
 too, were large and well-built ; many of them were 
 neatly whitewashed with lime, and had a sort of 
 comfortable look about them which expressed in 
 language unmistakeable that their owners were 
 “ well to do in the world.” 
 
 In this part of the country the staple article 
 of summer-cultivation was rice. The land seemed 
 exceedingly fertile, and this no doubt had something 
 to do with the well-being of the inhabitants. I 
 have observed this frequently exhibited in a most 
 marked manner in China. Wherever the country 
 is fertile, or when it produces an article of great 
 value in commerce, such as silk or tea for example, 
 there the natives as a general rule have more com- 
 
Chap. XIV. APPEAKANCE & CONDUCT OF NATIVES. 301 
 
 fortable bouses, are better fed and better clothed 
 than they are in other places. In those bleak and 
 barren mountain-districts, both inland and on the 
 seacoast, where the land yields barely a remune- 
 rative crop, the natives are generally ragged and 
 dirty in appearance, while their dwellings are 
 mean hovels which scarcely afford protection from 
 the inclemency of the weather. 
 
 The manners of the people we were now amongst 
 were quite in keeping with their outward appear- 
 ance. As they crowded round our boats they were 
 exceedingly polite and courteous, and gave us any 
 information we required as to our journey through 
 the country, and the state of the canals and 
 bridges. 
 
 It was now past seven o’clock in the evening, 
 and dinner being ready we sat down to enjoy our 
 evening meal. This proceeding seemed highly in- 
 teresting to our Chinese visitors, who now crowded 
 round our boat and were peeping through every 
 crevice where a view of what was going on within 
 could be obtained. They were, no doubt, quite as 
 much surprised at the operation of eating with 
 knives and forks as country-people at home would 
 be if they saw a Chinese family sit down with their 
 chop-sticks. 
 
 The Chinese 'are early in their habits — they go 
 to bed early and rise early in the morning — so we 
 were soon left by the crowd which surrounded our 
 boats, to enjoy our dinner in peace and quietness. 
 At daybreak on the following morning we took 
 
302 
 
 LAUGHABLE OCCURRENCE WITH Chap. XIV. 
 
 our provisions and baggage out of tbe largest boat, 
 which could not pass under the bridge, and dis- 
 charged it. Here a laughable occurrence took 
 place which I must notice. One of the men be- 
 longing to the boat was an old man, very obsti- 
 nate and rather despotic in his bearing both to the 
 other boatmen and to ourselves. In China an old 
 man has great privileges in this respect. He can 
 do many things which a younger man must not 
 attempt, and is generally looked up to and hu- 
 moured in many of his foibles. Now it so hap- 
 pened that this old man had made up his mind to 
 be as long as possible on our upward journey, in 
 order that he might have the same allowance of 
 time and money for his journey back to Ningpo, 
 and it was he who had given us so much trouble at 
 Yu-yoau. But fair winds and other circumstances 
 had disappointed him, and instead of spending 
 about three days in bringing us thus far, he had 
 been only one day and two nights. As we had 
 been one of these nights lying at the bridge, and 
 as his way back was down stream, we calculated 
 that he would easily reach Ningpo in a day and 
 night, even if the wind was contrary. He was 
 therefore paid for three days in full, which ap- 
 peared to us to be most ample. But this did not 
 satisfy the old man ; he had calculated on being 
 six days in our service, and six days’ pay he was 
 determined to have, nor would he listen to reason 
 or any explanation. 
 
 We had borrowed a table and three chairs from 
 
Chap. XIY. 
 
 AN AVARICIOUS BOATMAN. 
 
 303 
 
 Mr. Wadman in Ningpo, and had promised to send 
 them back in the old man’s boat, in which they 
 had been used. These he threatened to sell to 
 make up the amount — a mode of proceeding which 
 I well knew he durst not adopt. We then bade 
 him good-bye, and with the money which he had 
 refused we proceeded on our journey in the smaller 
 boats. 
 
 We had not gone very far when our friend made 
 his appearance, — having come by a near cut across 
 country, — and begged in the humblest manner that 
 we would let him have his money. He was quite 
 satisfied now, and he “ would not sell the chairs.” 
 As a slight punishment, we paid no attention to 
 his request for some time, and allowed him to 
 follow the boats for about a mile. We then paid 
 him the sum which he had formerly refused, and 
 added for his consolation that had he taken it at 
 first he would have received a present besides — a 
 lesson which, if it was lost on him, had a good 
 effect on our other men. 
 
 As we proceeded the canal became fuller, and 
 my boat, which was the next largest, was stopped 
 by a bridge. There was nothing for it but taking- 
 out all my luggage, and sending it onwards in a 
 small sand-pan, which luckily was easily procured. 
 My boatmen were quite satisfied with the allow- 
 ance made to them for their homeward journey, 
 and wished me fair winds and a prosperous jour- 
 ney, adding that if I returned to Ningpo they 
 would be happy to have a fresh engagement. 
 
304 
 
 SOIL AND DOCKS OF DISTRICT. Chap. XIY. 
 
 As we were only a few miles distant from the 
 end of the canal — a place called Ne-ka-loo — we 
 sent the boats on, and determined to walk across 
 the country ourselves. On our way we passed 
 through a large village named Te-sye-mun, re- 
 markable for a neat and well-finished mausoleum 
 erected in the dynasty of the Mings for a minister 
 of state — the same, I believe, to whom the temple 
 is dedicated on the hill inside of the city of Yu- 
 yaou. 
 
 The low country through which we passed had 
 the same rich appearance which I have already 
 mentioned, but the hills, which seemed jutting into 
 it in all directions, were comparatively barren. 
 They were chiefly composed of porphyritic granite 
 mixed with crystals of quartz of a very coarse 
 description. 
 
 About midday we arrived at the little village of 
 Ne-ka-loo, which is situated on the shores of the 
 bay of Hang-chow, and took up our quarters in a 
 Chinese inn. Our landlord seemed a bustling, good 
 sort of a man, and did everything in his power 
 to make us comfortable. He informed us the 
 passage-junks by which we had to cross the bay 
 had not arrived from Kan-poo, but would probably 
 make their appearance in the afternoon, and if we 
 would agree to pay six dollars we could have a 
 junk to ourselves, and could start to cross the 
 bay at eleven o’clock that night, when the flood- 
 tide came in. Assenting to this arrangement, we 
 left our servants to prepare an early dinner in 
 
Chap. XIV. SALT AND ITS MANUFACTURE. 
 
 305 
 
 “ our inn,” and went down to make an inspection 
 of tlie shores of the bay. 
 
 Between the village of Ne-ka-loo and the bay 
 there is a wide mud-flat, three or four miles in 
 extent, having several wide and substantial em- 
 bankments stretching across it and running paral- 
 lel with the bay. It appeared as if the bay had 
 been much wider at some former period than it is 
 at the present day. Large portions of land have 
 been from time to time reclaimed from the sea, 
 and the embankment furthest inland is now a 
 long way from the shore. Outside of this the 
 land is now under cultivation, and annually yields 
 heavy crops of grain. As we approached nearer 
 to the bay, we observed the flats covered with 
 a white crystalline substance, which on a nearer 
 view proved to be salt. Here there is but little 
 vegetation of any kind, and the whole face of the 
 country presents a most barren aspect. 
 
 Salt is made in large quantities all along the 
 shores of the bay in the following manner :-~A 
 thin layer of the surface-soil is raked up, loosened, 
 and then saturated with sea-water. As the water 
 evaporates, the operation is repeated several times 
 in succession until the clay or mud has absorbed 
 as much salt as it is capable of doing. This salt- 
 clay is then collected together into large round 
 mounds, and this part of the process is finished. 
 The second part of the process consists in sepa- 
 rating the salt from the mud. This is done by 
 throwing the latter on the top of a rude filter, and 
 
306 
 
 SALT AND ITS MANUFACTURE. Chap. XIV. 
 
 pouring water over it. The water takes the salt 
 out of the mud and carries it down through the 
 filter into a hole below. Sometimes the mud is 
 stamped upon by the feet of the workmen in order 
 to remove the whole of the saline particles with 
 which it is mixed. 
 
 When the salt has been removed in this way 
 from the mud, the latter is thrown out of the filter 
 and dried, in order to act in the same way again. 
 The brine when it has passed through the filter 
 into the well below is perfectly clear, and of course 
 highly saline. In this state it is taken out of the 
 well and conveyed in bullock-carts to the place 
 where it is to be boiled. Here it is poured into 
 large square boilers with bamboo frames covering 
 the surface of the liquid. On these frames the salt 
 adheres as it crystallizes. 
 
 Large quantities are also made without the aid 
 of fire or the boiling-house. The saline mixture 
 described above is poured thinly into shallow 
 wooden trays, and in this state exposed to the sun. 
 If the day is hot the water soon evaporates and 
 leaves the salt with which it was mixed at the 
 bottom of the trays. The salt made by boiling or 
 by evaporation in the sun does not seem to undergo 
 any mode of purifying as with us, but in this 
 rough state is put into baskets and carried to the 
 market. 
 
 Salt is a government monopoly in China. All 
 the land here, with the salt-mounds, boiling-houses, 
 &c., belongs to the government. Everywhere, 
 
Chap. XIV. CURIOUS MOONLIGHT JOURNEY. 
 
 307 
 
 however, along these flats, and in many parts of 
 the sea-coast, a large smuggling trade is carried 
 on under the eye of the authorities, who do not 
 seem to interfere, or only now and then. 
 
 While engaged in making these investigations 
 a Chinese sailor came running towards us from the 
 shore, and informed us that the passage-junk had 
 arrived. Her captain had been obliged to anchor 
 a considerable way out for want of water, but 
 would come close in- shore when the flood- tide 
 made in the evening. We therefore returned at 
 once to our inn in order to have dinner and to 
 make preparations for our voyage across the bay. 
 In the mean time our landlord had got together a 
 number of coolies and three chairs to carry us and 
 our luggage across the flats. 
 
 About eight o’clock in the evening we left the 
 inn, and took our way to the junk. It was a fine 
 moonlight night, and every object around us was 
 sparkling as if covered with gems. The chairs in 
 which we performed this part of the journey were 
 the most uncomfortable things of the kind I had 
 ever been in. The bearers, instead of slipping 
 along in that easy way in which such persons 
 generally go, jogged along like two rough buffa- 
 loes. As we proceeded the country had a most 
 curious appearance by moonlight. Soon after leav- 
 ing the village there was scarcely a tree to be 
 seen, and after passing the second embankment 
 vegetation — except some salt-loving plants — en- 
 tirely disappeared. Everywhere the ground was 
 
308 
 
 CURIOUS MOONLIGHT JOURNEY. Chap. XIV. 
 
 whitened with a coating of salt, and had a most 
 wintery look about it ; indeed had it not been for 
 the soft and warm air which fanned us as we went 
 along, and reminded us of summer, it would have 
 been no stretch of imagination to believe the 
 ground was covered with snow. 
 
 The night was so beautifully clear, that we 
 could see our long train of coolies a great way off, 
 toiling along with our luggage towards the shores 
 of the bay. Now and then one would break down 
 and get left in the rear, and then he might be 
 heard shouting to his companions to wait until he 
 came up with them. Here and there we passed 
 rude-looking bullock carts or waggons which are 
 used to convey the salt-brine to the boiling-houses, 
 and sometimes to carry passengers’ luggage, or 
 merchandize, from the junks to Ne-ka-loo. The 
 whole scene reminded me forcibly of a journey 
 across the isthmus of Suez, which I had made in a 
 clear moonlight night such as this was. 
 
 As we neared the shore, the ground seemed 
 much broken up by deep water-courses, caused no 
 doubt by the rapid tides for which the hay is 
 famed. The atmosphere, too, became thick with a 
 kind of misty haze, so that we could see but a 
 very short distance either before or behind. Our 
 coolies were now heard shouting out to each other 
 in order that they might keep together, which was 
 a difficult matter in the circumstances in which we 
 were placed. To me there did not seem to be a 
 landmark of any kind to direct our course, al- 
 
Chap. XTV. 
 
 PASSAGE JUNK. 
 
 309 
 
 though, no doubt, our coolies, who were well ac- 
 customed to the road, saw with very different eyes. 
 Those furthest ahead now began to shout loudly to 
 the sailors in the junk, which was supposed to he 
 somewhere near, hut as yet not visible from the 
 spot where we had halted. The signal was heard 
 and replied to by the people on board, who seemed 
 close at hand, and in another minute we were 
 standing on the brink of the bay. 
 
 When we reached the water’s edge we observed 
 our junk aground a little below the spot where we 
 stood, and were informed the flood-tide would make 
 immediately, when she would he brought to the 
 bank to receive us and our luggage. In a few 
 minutes an extraordinary sound of rushing water 
 was heard coming up the hay, and almost at the 
 same moment the tide began to flow with a rapidity 
 which was cpiite alarming. This was the “ Eagre,” 
 or as it is called in India, the “ Bore,” which often 
 makes its appearance on the Bay of Hang-chow 
 at full and change of the moon, and is sometimes 
 most dangerous to boats and junks which are 
 caught in its full strength. In the present instance 
 our junk was in a kind of creek, or at the mouth 
 of a canal, and in this position was perfectly safe. 
 She floated instantly and moved up to a position 
 close to the hank on which we were standing. 
 The sailors seemed to manage her admirably, and 
 it certainly required both activity and experience 
 to bring her up as they did. As soon as the vessel 
 was in her proper position, she was kept in it 
 
 y 2 
 
310 
 
 PASSAGE JUNK. 
 
 Chap. XTV. 
 
 by two strong stakes — one near the bow, and the 
 other near the stern — which went from the deck 
 right through her keel. These stakes by their 
 own weight fall firmly into the mud, and while 
 they secure the vessel, at the same time they allow 
 her to rise with the tide. 
 
 This mode of navigation, curious though it may 
 seem at first sight, is very safe and almost in- 
 dispensable where the tides run so rapidly. It will 
 be observed that the vessel was at first aground on 
 a mud- flat, which gradually rose towards the banks 
 in the form of an inclined plane. As soon as the 
 tide rose sufficiently to enable her to float, she was 
 propelled in the proper direction by poling. If 
 she grounded again before she made the bank, the 
 stakes were let down, and she was secured for a 
 second or two until she floated again. And so 
 she was propelled forward, and kept in her position 
 in this way, until the bank was reached, and she 
 was finally secured. All this occupies less time 
 than it takes to describe it, particularly during 
 spring-tides ; but if the sailors waited until they 
 had plenty of water to carry them inshore at once, 
 in many instances the force of the flowing tide 
 would render the junk unmanageable, and carry 
 her right up the bay. 
 
 When the junk had been brought into her 
 proper position alongside the bank where we were 
 standing, she was secured by strong cables made 
 fast at stem and stern, and then tied to wooden 
 stakes which were driven firmly into the bank 
 
Chap. XIV. 
 
 PASSAGE JUNK, 
 
 311 
 
 on the water’s edge. She was now considered 
 secure, and able to withstand the strong rush of 
 water which seemed to be carrying everything 
 before it. 
 
 Before these preparations were completed the 
 tide was rushing up the bay with fearful rapidity, 
 and rising much faster than I had ever witnessed 
 before. In less than a quarter of an hour it rose 
 some fourteen or fifteen feet, and seemed as if it 
 would soon overflow the banks and cover the low- 
 land on which we were standing. At the same 
 time it poured its water into the creeks and ditches 
 which its former violence had torn open, and every 
 now and then we could hear the dull, heavy sound 
 of mud-banks tumbling into the stream. Although 
 there was no danger when we were standing still, 
 we felt glad when the junk had been properly 
 moored so that we could get on board. 
 
 The junks which navigate this dangerous bay 
 are generally loaded with pigs when coming from 
 the north side, and consequently are frequently in 
 a most filthy condition. Dr. Medhurst, of the 
 London Missionary Society at Shangliae, gives 
 the following graphic description of what he ex- 
 perienced when crossing in a pig-laden junk : — 
 “ It was night before we arrived on board the 
 junk, which immediately got under weigh. It 
 was only then that we became alive to our uncom- 
 fortable position. The grunting and stink of the 
 pigs, together with the smoking and jabbering of 
 the men, affected a variety of the senses in a most 
 
312 
 
 VOYAGE ACROSS THE BAY. 
 
 Chap. XIV. 
 
 disagreeable manner. We found tbe berths that 
 had been assigned us already occupied by about a 
 dozen individuals, but upon remonstrance made we 
 got one of the berths cleared for our reception, in 
 which we had to make our beds, immediately 
 under the pigs, and in close contiguity to a dozen 
 Chinamen, who lay about on the floor one over 
 the other, almost as filthy and unceremonious as 
 the pigs themselves. The stench and heat was 
 almost unsupportable, and the horrid groaning and 
 struggling of the porcine multitude over head, 
 rendered sleep almost impossible. To increase 
 our troubles we had a contrary wind, and as the 
 navigation of the Tseen-tang (owing to the tides 
 in the Bay of Hang-chow altering the position of 
 the sands almost every day) is at all times difficult, 
 we had the additional pleasantness of a probable 
 shipwreck in a windy night, without a single boat 
 in which we could have reached the shore. By 
 God’s good providence, however, we were pre- 
 served during the night, and in the morning found 
 ourselves only a few miles from the place where 
 we embarked, with the wind right ahead. By 
 dint of great exertion in skulling, the boatmen 
 brought the vessel to the south side of the bay 
 about midday. By this time we found that the 
 tide was just ebbing, which caused our vessel to 
 ground far from land, and made it necessary for 
 us to wait until the tide had run all out and made 
 again, before we could get at all nearer the shore. 
 In the mean time we sent a man to wade through 
 
Chap. XIV. 
 
 VOYAGE ACROSS THE BAY. 
 
 313 
 
 the mud and water, in order to call a couple of 
 chairs and coolies to convey us and our baggage 
 across the mud-flats to Ne-ka-loo.” 
 
 Having engaged the junk for ourselves, we 
 were not quite so badly off as our missionary 
 friends, and had no pigs to annoy us. When we 
 got on board we went below to see the berths in 
 the cabin which were set apart for our accom- 
 modation, but they appeared so filthy and stunk 
 so horridly that we were glad to get on deck 
 again. The cabin was also full of smoke, and 
 everything we came in contact with left its mark 
 on our hands or our clothes. It was now deter- 
 mined to have our beds spread down on the deck 
 of the vessel, where, as it was partly covered, we 
 could sleep with more comfort than in the filthy 
 cabin. 
 
 We weighed anchor, or rather we ‘‘cast off” 
 about midnight, and stood across the bay. The 
 wind was light and fair, the water was perfectly 
 smooth, and everything seemed to promise a safe 
 and speedy passage. As this part of the bay was 
 sometimes frequented by numerous small piratical 
 craft, I was doubtful about going to sleep, but the 
 boatmen assured me there was no fear from an 
 attack at this time, and as these people are exceed- 
 ingly timid an assurance of this kind from them 
 was deemed satisfactory. 
 
 For some time after we were under way I sat 
 on the foredeck of the vessel contemplating the 
 beauty and stillness of the scene around me. The 
 
314 
 
 CHINESE SAILORS. 
 
 Chap. XIY. 
 
 moon was shining dimly through a thick haze, not 
 a sound was heard, except now and then a sail 
 flapping against the mast and the rippling noise 
 which the water made against the bows. Not- 
 withstanding the beauty and stillness of the scene 
 around me I soon began to feel very sleepy, and 
 went and lay down on my couch. How long I 
 had slept I know not, hut I was suddenly awakened 
 by being pitched bed and all to the lea side of the 
 deck, when I was brought up by the bulwarks, a 
 part of which were under water. It was now 
 “ all hands in-sail.” The scene had undergone 
 a complete and it appeared a rapid change ; the 
 moon had set ; it was now dark and blowing half 
 a gale, and the waters of the bay which were so 
 smooth a few hours before were now rolling along 
 in deep waves capped with foam. 
 
 On account of the numerous sand-banks and 
 rocks and rapid tides in this bay, its navigation at 
 all times is exceedingly dangerous if the vessels 
 are driven but a short way out of the proper 
 course. But the Chinese are excellent sailors on 
 their own coasts and in their own vessels. On the 
 present occasion the helm was instantly put down, 
 and the vessel came up to the wind. The crew 
 then ran forward to the masts, the sails were 
 lowered and reefed, and we kept our course again. 
 The sails had to be reduced from time to time as 
 the wind freshened ; but as it was fair we were 
 flying through the water with great rapidity, and 
 had the satisfaction of knowing that we should be 
 
Chap. XIV. 
 
 ARRIVE AT KAN-POO. 
 
 315 
 
 soon across the hay. As we approached the 
 northern shores we got under the shelter of the 
 land, and the sea became perfectly smooth. 
 
 The distance across the bay at this point is 
 about twenty miles, and this we accomplished in 
 about three hours. At daylight in the morning 
 we found ourselves “ high and dry” in the mud 
 alongside of several other trading junks, which, 
 like ourselves, had run in here at high-water. 
 We crossed the mud-flat between the vessel and 
 the shore on men’s shoulders, — a fine, stout fellow 
 carried me and deposited me dry and safely on the 
 sands — and then walked on to the ancient city of 
 Kan-poo, which we found situated about a mile 
 from the beach. 
 
316 
 
 TSIEN-TANG RIVER. 
 
 Chap. XV. 
 
 CHAPTER XY. 
 
 The Tsien-tang river — Its eagre or “ bore ” — Appearance it presents 
 
 — Effects it produces — Superstitions of the natives — City of Ivan- 
 poo — Mentioned by Marco Polo — Its decay as a maritime port — 
 Another source of wealth — Its inhabitants — Village of Luk-le- 
 heen — Engage canal boats — Pass through borders of silk country 
 
 — City of Yuen-hwa — Supposed emporium for “ Yuen-fa ” silk — 
 Geology of isolated hills — City of Ping-hoo — Way to manage 
 Chinese crowds — Shops and gardens — A dangerous position — 
 Arrive at Shanghae. 
 
 The Tsien-tang river, which flows past the city of 
 Hang-chow-foo and empties itself into the hay we 
 had just crossed, is formed of two branches, which 
 unite at the old town of Yen-chow, about one hun- 
 dred and twenty miles from its mouth. The more 
 southerly branch has its numerous sources amongst 
 the mountains bordering on Fokien, and amongst 
 some hills north-west of the town of Chang-shan, 
 where the three provinces of Chekiang, Kiangse, 
 and Gnan-hwuy meet. The other branch rises in 
 the north-west, amongst the green-tea hills of 
 Hwuy-chow. On former occasions * I had jour- 
 neyed to the source of both these branches, and 
 found them navigable for country flat-bottomed 
 boats for upwards of two hundred miles from 
 Hang-chow. These boats bring down all the tea 
 
 * See ‘ Journey to the Tea Countries of China and India.’ 
 
Chap. XV. 
 
 ITS EAGRE, OR BORE. 
 
 317 
 
 and other articles produced amongst these inland 
 provinces to Hang-cliow, where they are trans- 
 ferred to boats of another class on the canals. 
 Owing to the numerous rocks, sandbanks, and 
 rapid tides eastward of the city, the lower part of 
 the river and head of the estuary is rarely trusted 
 by vessels of any class, large or small. Every- 
 thing is sent onward by the canals, which here 
 form a network all over the vast plain of the 
 Yang-tze-kiang. 
 
 The Eagre, or as it is called in India, the 
 “ Bore ” of the Tsien-tang river is famous in 
 Chinese history. It is one of the three wonders of 
 the world, according to a Chinese proverb, the 
 other two being the demons at Tang-chau and the 
 thunder at Lung-cliau. As in other countries, the 
 Eagre makes its appearance generally on the 
 second or third day after the full or change of 
 the moon, or at what are called “ spring tides,” 
 and particularly in spring and autumn, about the 
 time the sun is crossing the line. Should it so 
 happen that strong easterly gales blow at these 
 times the Eagre rolls along in all its grandeur, 
 and carries everything before it. Dr. Macgowan, 
 the well-known medical missionary at Ningpo, 
 gives the following graphic account of it which 
 he witnessed during a visit to Hang-chow-foo. 
 
 “ Between the river and the city walls, which 
 are a mile distant, dense suburbs extend for several 
 miles along the banks. As the hour of flood-tide 
 approached crowds gathered in the streets running 
 
318 
 
 THE EAGRE, OR BORE. 
 
 Chap. XV. 
 
 at right angles with the Tsien-tang, but at safe 
 distances. My position was a terrace in front of 
 the Tri-wave temple, which afforded a good view 
 of the entire scene. On a sudden all traffic in the 
 thronged mart was suspended ; porters cleared the 
 front street of every description of merchandise, 
 boatmen ceased lading and unlading their vessels, 
 and put out into the middle of the stream, so that 
 a few minutes sufficed to give a deserted appear- 
 ance to the busiest part of one of the busiest cities 
 in Asia. The centre of the river teemed with 
 craft, from small boats to large barges, including 
 the gay ‘ flower-boats.’ Loud shouting from the 
 fleet announced the appearance of the flood, which 
 seemed like a glistening white cable stretched 
 athwart the river at its mouth, as far down as the 
 eye could reach. Its noise, compared by Chinese 
 poets to that of thunder, speedily drowned that of 
 the boatmen, and as it advanced with prodigious 
 velocity — at the rate, I should judge, of twenty- 
 five miles an hour— it assumed the appearance of 
 an alabaster wall, or rather of a cataract four or 
 five miles across and about thirty feet high, mov- 
 ing bodily onward. Soon it reached the advanced 
 guard of the immense assemblage of vessels await- 
 ing its approach. Knowing that the Bore of the 
 Hoogly, which scarce deserved mention in connec- 
 tion with the one before me, invariably overturned 
 boats which were not skilfully managed, I could 
 not hut feel apprehensive for the lives of the float- 
 ing multitude. As the foaming wall of water 
 
Chap. XV. 
 
 THE EAGRE, OR BORE. 
 
 319 
 
 dashed impetuously onwards they were silenced, 
 all being intently occupied in keeping their prows 
 towards the wave which threatened to submerge 
 everything afloat : hut they all vaulted, as it were, 
 to the summit with perfect safety. The spectacle 
 was of greatest interest when the Eagre had 
 passed about half-way among the craft. On one 
 side they were quietly reposing on the surface of 
 the unruffled stream, while those on the nether 
 portion were pitching and heaving in tumultuous 
 confusion on the flood ; others were scaling, with 
 the agility of salmon, the formidable cascade. 
 
 “ This grand and exciting scene was but of a 
 moment’s duration ; it passed up the river in an 
 instant ; hut from this point with gradually dimin- 
 ishing force, size, and velocity, until it ceased to 
 be perceptible, which Chinese accounts represent 
 to he eighty miles distant from the city. From 
 ebb to flood-tide the change was almost instanta- 
 neous. A slight flood continued after the passage 
 of the wave, but it soon began to ebb. Having 
 lost my memoranda I am obliged to write from 
 recollection : my impression is that the fall was 
 about twenty feet ; the Chinese say that the rise 
 and fall is sometimes forty feet at Hang-chow. 
 The maximum rise and fall at sjDring-tides is 
 probably at the mouth of the river, or upper part 
 of the bay, where the Eagre is hardly discover- 
 able. In the Bay of Fundy, where the tides rush 
 in with amazing velocity, there is at one place a 
 rise of seventy feet, but there the magnificent 
 
320 
 
 THE EAGRE, OR BORE. 
 
 Citap. XV. 
 
 phenomenon in question does not appear to be 
 known at all. It is not, therefore, where tides 
 attain their greatest rapidity, or maximum rise 
 and fall, that the wave is met with, but where 
 a river and its estuary both present a peculiar 
 configuration. 
 
 ***** 
 
 “ A very short period elapsed between the pas- 
 sage of the Eagre and the resumption of traffic ; 
 the vessels were soon attached to the shore again, 
 and women and children were occupied in gather- 
 ing articles which the careless or unskilful had 
 lost in the aquatic melee. The streets were 
 drenched with spray, and a considerable volume 
 of water splashed over the banks into the head 
 of the grand canal, a few feet distant.” * 
 
 Such is the appearance which is presented, and 
 some of the effects which are produced by this 
 tidal phenomenon. By the superstitious and igno- 
 rant among the natives it is accounted for in the 
 following manner. One Wu-Tsz’-si, who lived 
 about five hundred years before our era, had the 
 misfortune to offend his sovereign, who politely 
 made him a present of a sword, by which he 
 understood he was to remove himself from the 
 presence and from the world at the same time. 
 When this object was accomplished his body was 
 thrown into the Tsien-tang river, and afterwards 
 became the god of the Eagre. His indignation 
 and rage for such treatment while on earth is now 
 
 * Transactions of the China branch of the Royal Asiatic Society. 
 
Chap. XV. SUPERSTITIONS OF THE NATIVES. 
 
 321 
 
 exhibited periodically by the violence of the tidal 
 wave, which sweeps everything before it on its 
 course, breaks down the river’s hanks, and floods 
 the adjoining lands. Monarchs of almost every 
 dynasty have honoured him with titles ; temples 
 have been erected to his memory ; and prayers 
 and sacrifices are periodically offered by the 
 people in order to appease his anger. 
 
 At the entrance of the Bay of Hang-chow, or 
 Chapoo, as it is sometimes called, although there 
 is no Bore, the spring-tides are well known to 
 navigators as very rapid and dangerous. Sir R. 
 Collinson, when in the H. 0. steamer “ Phlege- 
 tlion,” trying to find a passage to Hang-chow-foo, 
 found he had a tide running “ eleven and a half 
 knots when nineteen miles distant from the Cha- 
 poo hills and two from the shore. Traversing the 
 river, which at this point is about fifteen miles 
 wide, there was no continuous channel found, 
 although there were some deep spots. When the 
 ‘ Phlegethon ’ was exposed to this tide she had 
 an anchor down with a whole cable (having pre- 
 viously lost an anchor and cable in endeavouring 
 to hug up), was under her full power of steam 
 with sails set, and was still driving.” 
 
 On the north side of the Bay of Hang-chow the 
 Yang-tze-kiang, one of the largest rivers in the 
 world, empties itself into the ocean. Year by 
 year it brings down large quantities of alluvial 
 matter and deposits it at its mouth. While this 
 annual deposit is in some places gradually and 
 
322 
 
 CITY OF KAN-POO. 
 
 Chap. XY. 
 
 rapidly rising and forming islands,* much of it is 
 apparently swept by tlie rapid tides into the bay 
 of Hang-chow, where it stops up the passages for 
 navigation, makes former seaports into mere in- 
 land towns, and gives a new direction to the traffic 
 of the country. 
 
 Kan-poo, the old city at which we had now 
 arrived, is an example of what I have now stated. 
 It is thought by some, and with pretty good rea- 
 son, that this place is the same as that mentioned 
 in Marco Polo’s travels under the name of Kan- 
 foo. In his day it was the seaport of Hang-chow- 
 foo, and was frequented by ships from India and 
 other parts of the world. Now the sands and 
 alluvial deposit of the Yang-tze-kiang, and the 
 rapid tides of the estuary, have destroyed its mari- 
 time importance, and instead of receiving ships 
 freighted with the riches of India, and dispatch- 
 ing them full of the silk and other products of the 
 country, it is an insignificant inland town with a 
 few passage junks which keep up a communica- 
 tion with the opposite shore, whose principal 
 articles of freight are Chinese passengers and 
 pigs. 
 
 Kan-poo is between twenty and thirty miles 
 to the eastward of Hang-chow-foo. Some fifty 
 miles further east, and near the mouth of the 
 bay, the city of Chapoo has sprung up into con- 
 
 * In 1843, when I first visited these parts, there was a sand-bank 
 barely visible at high water. That is now covered with trees, inha- 
 bited, and forms an excellent mark to navigators. 
 
Chap. XY. 
 
 ITS DECAY. 
 
 323 
 
 siderable importance, and lias taken the place of 
 Kan-poo as the seaport of the provincial capital. 
 But there is scarcely any foreign trade carried on 
 at Ohapoo. No ships bring “merchandise from 
 India.” It is chiefly remarkable for the large 
 trade done in wood, brought up from the province 
 of Fokien, and also as being the only port in the 
 empire that trades with Japan. 
 
 It is just possible that long before the days of 
 Marco Polo Hang-cliow-foo itself was a seaport ; 
 then as the river gradually became unsafe Kan- 
 poo sprang up, which in its turn again gave place 
 to Chapoo. And it seems equally certain that in 
 the course of time— that time may yet be far dis- 
 tant — if the depositions at the mouth of the bay 
 continue, Chajioo itself will have to give way to 
 some place nearer the sea. 
 
 The city of Kan-poo seems a very ancient place, 
 judging from the appearance of its wall and ram- 
 parts. They are built of large square stones, much 
 worn by time, and are rather in a dilapidated con- 
 dition. Overgrown in many places with long 
 grass, reeds, and brushwood, and much broken, 
 they have a hoary look about them which insensi- 
 bly carries the mind back to bygone ages, and to 
 generations which have long since passed away. 
 They appeared to be nearly three miles in circum- 
 ference, but the space enclosed is not nearly 
 covered with houses, and also includes many gar- 
 dens and green fields. In our walks through the 
 city we found it contained a number of clean re- 
 
 z 
 
324 
 
 KAN-POO — SOUKCE OF WEALTH. Chap. XV. 
 
 spectable-looking houses, but its streets reminded 
 us of a quiet country-town, and had none of that 
 bustling activity which is visible at a flourishing 
 Chinese seaport. 
 
 Although the shifting sands and rapid tides of 
 the estuary have long ago cut off communication 
 with the sea, yet the old city has a mine of wealth 
 within itself, which it is likely long to retain. It 
 is situated on the border of a rich silk country, 
 and large quantities of this valuable article are 
 annually produced, both for home consumption 
 and for export. The natives were now (June 1st) 
 husily employed in reeling the first crop of coc- 
 coons. In almost every other house in some of 
 the streets the clack, clack, clack, of the winding- 
 machine fell upon our ears as we passed along. 
 We frequently stopped to examine this part of the 
 process, which will be found fully described in a 
 subsequent chapter, if the reader condescends to 
 accompany me through the centre of the great 
 silk country to the silk-towns of Nan-tsin and 
 Hoo-chow-foo. We did not observe any other 
 articles of manufacture in Kan-poo worthy of 
 notice. The natives seemed clean and comfort- 
 ably-looking in their appearance, and treated us 
 very civilly. We were not inconvenienced by 
 those crowds of noisy vulgar-looking fellows who 
 generally surround foreigners when they make 
 their appearance in their inland towns. 
 
 In order to engage canal-boats to continue our 
 journey we walked onward to a place named Luh- 
 
Chap. XV. LUH-LE-HEEN — ENGAGE CANAL BOATS. 325 
 
 le-heen, distant from Kan-poo between two and 
 three miles. Here a canal terminates which is 
 connected with those which ramify all over the 
 plain of the Yan-tze-kiang, and here we found 
 travelling-boats from all quarters of the country 
 ready to be engaged. There is a canal which 
 leads from the city to this point, and by this 
 means we brought up our servants and luggage. 
 At Luh-le-heen the two canals are separated by 
 an embankment, and goods or luggage has to be 
 carried across on men’s shoulders. 
 
 Luh-le-heen is a small bustling village on the 
 banks of the canal, chiefly remarkable for the 
 number of tea-shops and other houses of refresh- 
 ment it contains. Judging from the crowds of 
 people we saw in these places, a thriving trade 
 must be done by their proprietors ; but it must be 
 taken into consideration that most of their cus- 
 tomers spend very small sums. In tea-shops in 
 China a cup of tea can be had for about the third 
 part of a farthing of our money, and oftentimes 
 for less than that, so that a shop of this kind may 
 be crowded from morning to evening and not a 
 large sum of money taken after all during the 
 day. 
 
 We found no difficulty in engaging boats to 
 take us onwards to Shanghae, and having had our 
 luggage carried into them over the embankment, 
 we sculled away, and soon left the canal village far 
 behind us. Our route now lay along the borders 
 of the silk district, and everywhere we saw groves 
 
 z 2 
 
326 
 
 CITY OF PING-IIOO. 
 
 Chap. XY. 
 
 of mulberry trees in cultivation in the fields. A 
 few hours brought us to a large city, named Yuen- 
 hwa, containing a population estimated at 100,000 
 persons. As this city is also on the borders of 
 the great silk country, it is probably here where 
 that description of silk called Yuen-fa is produced. 
 This, however, is only conjecture, although pro- 
 bably a correct one. A few isolated hills were 
 observed near this city which formed a boundary 
 on the south to the immense alluvial plain which 
 now stretched away far to the north and eastward 
 from Yuen-hwa. The Rev. Dr. Medhurst, when 
 on a missionary tour, examined these hills, and 
 states they are composed of a “ red kind of 
 igneous rock, mixed with large portions of quartz. 
 It seemed to be a schistose formation of disinte- 
 grated granite combined with porphyry.” 
 
 In the afternoon of the following day after we 
 had left Yuen-hwa, we arrived off the city of 
 Ping-hoo, having called in by Cliapoo, a town 
 which my two friends were anxious to see. Al- 
 though Ping-hoo is not a very great distance from 
 Shanghae, it does not seem to have been often 
 visited by foreigners, and the people are very wild 
 and unruly. This is, no doubt, partly owing to 
 the large boat-population which the place contains, 
 being situated on the bank of a central canal, 
 which communicates with all parts of the country. 
 Having determined to visit the place in passing, 
 in order to endeavour to make some purchases of 
 articles of virtu , and to visit some nursery gardens 
 
Chap. XY. WAY TO MANAGE CHINESE CROWDS. 
 
 327 
 
 near the west gate, I warned my friends of the 
 unruly mob which we would probably find out- 
 side the walls, and begged them to endeavour, if 
 possible, not to lose temper. There is nothing 
 more dangerous than losing one’s temper with a 
 Chinese rabble. Keep in good humour, laugh and 
 joke with them, and all will go on well ; they may 
 be noisy and boisterous in their mirth, but gene- 
 rally they will do nothing further to annoy you ; 
 hut once lose temper, and show that you are 
 angry either by word or deed, and ten to one you 
 will soon find yourself in a dangerous position. 
 There are more than one whom business or other 
 matters has made a sojourner in the Celestial 
 Empire, who can bear witness to the truth of this 
 statement. 
 
 When we landed from our boats a large crowd 
 collected around us and followed us into the city, 
 increasing as we went along. Every now and 
 then a little urchin ran past to give warning on 
 ahead, so that we found the whole street aware of 
 our approach, and every door and window crowded 
 with anxious faces. All went on quite well, how- 
 ever, although the crowd contained some mis- 
 chievous-looking fellows in its ranks. When we 
 entered a shop the scene outside was quite fearful. 
 The street was very narrow and literally crammed 
 with human beings, all anxious to see us and to 
 find out what we were buying. In more than one 
 instance the pressure was so great as to endanger 
 the fronts of the shops ; and, anxious as the 
 
328 
 
 SHOPS AND GAKDENS. 
 
 Chap. XV- 
 
 Chinese are for trade, I believe the poor shop- 
 keepers were heartily glad when they got rid of us. 
 We picked up two or three interesting specimens 
 of ancient porcelain, and, had time and the crowd 
 permitted, we would have got many more. We 
 had entered the city at the east gate, near the 
 canal, and as its main street runs from the east to 
 the west gate, we proceeded in the direction of the 
 latter. Its shops are but poor in general, and as a 
 city I believe it is not remarkable for any parti- 
 cular branch of manufacture, but many retired 
 wealthy people live within its walls. 
 
 Outside the west gate were the nursery gardens 
 I was desirous of visiting. I had been here on 
 more than one occasion formerly, but had gene- 
 rally avoided raising a crowd by coming round 
 the moat which surrounds the city in my boat, and 
 stepping out of it into the gardens unseen except 
 by two or three persons. On these occasions, ere 
 a crowd could gather, I had finished my business 
 and was off. In the present instance, however, 
 the dense mass of beings followed us closely, and 
 went into the gardens along with us, to the great 
 danger of numerous pretty flowers and flowerpots 
 which stood in the way. All were, however, 
 though boisterous, in perfect good humour, and, 
 although we found it very annoying to be followed 
 and crowded in this way wherever we went, and 
 prevented from well examining the various things 
 which came in our way, yet we bore with it as 
 well as we could and took everything in good 
 
Chap. XV. 
 
 A DANGEROUS POSITION. 
 
 329 
 
 part. Nothing new or rare being found in the 
 gardens to reward us for the visit we had paid to 
 them, and as it was getting late in the afternoon, 
 we determined to return at once to our boats, from 
 which we were distant about two miles. In order 
 to get relieved from the crowd we did not again 
 enter the city, hut went back through its northern 
 suburb in the direction of the east gate. This 
 movement in a great measure accomplished the 
 intended object, and most of the people who had 
 followed us thus far, with the intention of return- 
 ing with us through the city, left and went home. 
 A small portion, however, continued to follow us 
 until we came to the north gate, when I remon- 
 strated with them by saying that surely they had 
 seen enough of us, and that we were anxious to 
 have a quiet walk after all the noise and incon- 
 venience we had been subjected to. After this 
 they seemed afraid to follow us any further, but 
 we had soon reason to repent having stopped 
 them. Our road led us for some distance close 
 under the city walls. Two or three rascally-look- 
 ing fellows, the scum of the crowd, entered by the 
 north gate and got upon the top of the ramparts, 
 and soon showed evil intentions towards us. Se- 
 veral stones were thrown by unseen hands, and 
 from the position we were in, our situation was 
 far from being an agreeable one. Hemmed in as 
 we were by the city wall on one side and houses 
 on the other, moreover the street thus formed 
 being very narrow, we were placed entirely at the 
 
330 
 
 ARRIVE AT SHANGHAE. 
 
 Chap. XV. 
 
 mercy of our assailants. At last a large brick 
 came tumbling down, and struck the ground close 
 to our feet. It was well-aimed, and bad it struck 
 the mark it is probable that one of our little party 
 would have been killed on the spot. We were 
 perfectly powerless. We neither could see those 
 by whom we were attacked, nor could we get out 
 of their way. Several respectable Chinese remon- 
 strated with their unruly countrymen, and we 
 hurried onwards in order to get out of our awk- 
 ward position as soon as we possibly could. For- 
 tunately, we soon came to a cross-street which led 
 away from the wall, and we were then out of 
 danger. 
 
 We reached our boat without any further ad- 
 venture, and were glad to push out into the 
 stream, having had quite enough popularity for 
 one day. Having described the country between 
 Ping-lioo and Sliangbae in a former work,* I need 
 not say anything further about it here. A few 
 hours brought us to the upper part of the Shang- 
 hae river, and we reached that city on the third of 
 June, much pleased, on the whole, with our inland 
 journey. 
 
 ‘ Three Years’ Wanderings in China.’ 
 
Chap. XVI. 
 
 LEAVE SHANGHAE. 
 
 331 
 
 CHAPTER XYI. 
 
 Leave Shangbae for the silk country — Melancholy results of the 
 Shanghae rebellion — Country and productions about Cading — 
 Indigo and safflower — Bamboo paper-making — Insects — Lakes 
 and marshy country — Visit the town of Nan-tsin in the silk 
 districts — Its shops and inhabitants — Producers of raw silk and 
 silk merchants — Description of silk country — Soil — Method of 
 cultivating the mulberry — Valuable varieties — Increased by 
 grafting and not by seeds — Method of gathering the leaves — 
 Hills near Hoo-chow-foo — Temples and priests. 
 
 On the evening of the eighth of June I took my 
 departure from Shanghae, en route for the great 
 silk district for which the province is famed all 
 over the world, and for the mountainous country 
 which lies to the westward of the plain of the 
 Yang-tse-kiang. As my boat proceeded rapidly 
 up the Soochow branch of the river, I soon ap- 
 proached the ground where the imperialists had 
 their principal camp during the siege of the city, 
 and where so many hundreds of poor wretches 
 were executed after the city was evacuated. It 
 was a calm and beautiful evening. The sounds of 
 civil warfare and of a camp teeming with bar- 
 barous soldiers, which had been so often heard a 
 few months before, had now passed away, — the 
 sword had been converted into the ploughshare — 
 and the husbandman was quietly engaged in the 
 
332 MELANCHOLY RESULTS OF REBELLION. Chap. XVI. 
 
 cultivation of his fields, now enriched with the 
 blood and bodies of his countrymen. 
 
 As I passed the site of the old camp I sat on 
 the outside of' my boat smoking my cigar in the 
 cool air of the evening, and musing upon the e vents 
 of the preceding years. The wind at the time 
 blew softly from the south, and before it reached 
 the river on which I was sailing it had to pass 
 over the site of the old encampment. The first 
 puff that reached me almost made me sick, and it 
 has nearly the same effect on me even now when 
 I think of it as I write. Although I had seen 
 none of the executions which had taken place a 
 short time before, I did not require any one to 
 inform me that this was the “ field of blood.” 
 Here hundreds of headless bodies scarcely covered, 
 or only with an inch or two of earth, lay in a 
 state of decomposition, and the stench from them 
 filled and polluted the air. Here, then, was the 
 end of the Shanghae rebellion, which, at one time, 
 was so much lauded and encouraged by foreigners 
 at that port. The country was devastated for 
 miles round, the city lay in ruins, thousands of the 
 peaceful inhabitants were rendered homeless and 
 friendless, and the authors of this state of things, 
 who used to strut about dressed in the richest 
 silks and satins (which they plundered from the 
 shops and houses of the wealthy), smoke opium, 
 and make a profession of regard for the Christian 
 religion, were now either skulking fugitives, or 
 had atoned with their blood for their crimes. 
 
Chap. XYI. 
 
 INDIGO AND SAFFLOWER. 
 
 333 
 
 I was heartily glad when my boat had passed 
 the place into purer air. As my boatmen sculled 
 all night, in the morning we were thirty miles 
 distant from Shanghae and within sight of the 
 walls of Cading, an old city which I passed some 
 years ago, when on my way to Soo-chow-foo. 
 Here I remained for several days, inspecting the 
 natural productions of the country. As this city 
 and the surrounding country is frequently visited 
 by missionaries and other residents in Shanghae, a 
 foreigner is a common sight to the natives, who 
 do not crowd round him as they do in more inland 
 towns. I could, therefore, pursue my investiga- 
 tions in town and country without being molested 
 in any way whatever. 
 
 The surrounding country, although a plain, is 
 somewhat higher and more undulating in its gene- 
 ral character than that about Shanghae. The 
 land is exceedingly fertile and admirably adapted 
 for Chinese cotton cultivation, and consequently 
 we find that cotton is the staple production of the 
 district. But there are many other articles be- 
 sides which are worthy of notice. The Shanghae 
 indigo ( Isates indigotica) is largely cultivated in the 
 Ke-wang-meow district, a few miles to the south. 
 The “ Hong-wlia,” a variety of safflower ( Car- 
 tliamnus tinctorius ), was found for the first time in 
 fields near Cading. This dye, I was informed, was 
 held in high esteem by the Chinese, and is used in 
 dyeing the red and scarlet silks and crapes which 
 are so common in the country and so much and 
 
334 
 
 APPLES AND MELONS. 
 
 Chap. XVI. 
 
 justly admired by foreigners of every nation. 
 Although I had not met with the safflower in 
 cultivation in any other part of the country, my 
 servants informed me that large quantities were 
 annually produced in the Chekiang province near 
 Ningpo. At this season (June 10th) the crop of 
 flowers had been gathered, and all the plants 
 removed from the land, except some few here and 
 there on the different farms which had been left 
 for seed. The seed was not yet ripe, so that I 
 could not get a supply, but I determined to return 
 that way and secure a portion to send to the Agri- 
 cultural and Horticultural Society of India, in 
 order to compare the Chinese with the Indian 
 safflower. I believe they have turned out to be 
 alike, or nearly so. Large quantities of fruit and 
 vegetables are also produced in the vicinity of the 
 city. I observed orchards of apple-trees, which is 
 rather a rare sight in this district. The variety 
 of apple was a small one, about as big as our 
 golden pippin, but excellent in flavour ; indeed, 
 the only kind worth eating in this part of China. 
 Melons of several different kinds were also ex- 
 tensively cultivated : when they are ripe the 
 markets are literally crowded to overflowing with 
 them, and they are eaten by the natives much in 
 the same way as apples are with us ; in fact 
 they seem to be, so to speak, the apples of the 
 country. 
 
 In the canals near the city there were large 
 quantities of bamboos partially covered with mud, 
 
Chap. XYI. 
 
 BAMBOO PAPER-MAKING. 
 
 335 
 
 so as to be pressed under water. These, I believe, 
 were intended to be made into paper after they 
 bad been soaked for some time. The whole of 
 the process of making paper from the bamboo did 
 not come under my notice while travelling in the 
 country, but I believe it is carried out somewhat 
 in the following manner : — After being soaked for 
 some time in the way I have noticed, the bamboos 
 are split up and saturated with lime and water 
 until they become quite soft. They are then 
 beaten up into a pulp in mortars, or where water- 
 power is at hand, as in the hilly districts, the beat- 
 ing or stamping process is done by means of 
 stampers, which rise and fall as the cogs which 
 are placed on the axis of the water-wheel revolve. 
 When the mass has been reduced to a fine pulpy 
 substance it is then taken to a furnace and well 
 boiled until it has become perfectly fine, and of the 
 proper consistency. It is then formed into sheets 
 of paper. 
 
 Bamboo-paper is made of various degrees of 
 fineness according to the purposes for which it is 
 intended. It is not only used for writing upon, 
 and for packing with, but a large quantity of a 
 coarse description is made for the sole purpose of 
 mixing with the mortar used by bricklayers. 
 
 In the fields about Cading I found two fine 
 species of carabus, under stones, which were highly 
 prized by entomologists at home. On the first ' 
 discovery of these insects I showed them to a 
 group of children who were with me, and offered 
 
336 
 
 INSECTS. 
 
 Chap. XVI. 
 
 to buy all they brought me at the rate of thirty 
 cash for each, perfect specimen. I dare say they 
 considered me insane or foolish, and I thought I 
 could detect a look of pity on some countenances ; 
 but the motley group by which I was surrounded 
 was soon scattered in all directions, engaged in 
 turning over stones, lumps of loose earth and 
 rubbish, and eagerly looking for the insects I 
 wanted. The news was soon communicated to the 
 old women in the villages, who were as anxious as 
 the children, and many were the disputes and 
 tumbles they had when scrambling for these 
 beetles. 
 
 By this means I soon procured as many speci- 
 mens of these insects as I required, and then the 
 difficulty was to induce my crowds of collectors 
 to leave off collecting. I have already stated that 
 the natives always believed I was collecting insects 
 for medicine, and, therefore, had no idea of some 
 forty or fifty of each kind being enough. 
 
 Leaving Cading I pursued my journey to the 
 westward in the direction of Tsing-poo. Soon 
 after dark I found myself on the borders of an 
 extensive sheet of water. My boatmen refused to 
 proceed farther that night, telling me they could 
 not find their way in the dark, and that if the 
 wind rose we would be placed in a dangerous 
 position. As this part of the country was un- 
 known to me I considered it best to allow the 
 men to have their own way, and so we brought 
 up for the night. 
 
Chap. XVI. LAKES AND MARSHY COUNTRY. 
 
 337 
 
 When I awoke at daybreak on the following 
 morning we were already under way, and sailing 
 with a fair wind across the lake. It was not diffi- 
 cult to perceive the justice of the remarks made 
 by the boatmen the evening before ; indeed, it 
 seemed a difficult matter to find our way in broad 
 daylight. This is a most extraordinary part of 
 the country : the lake, or rather lakes, extend in 
 all directions for many miles, sometimes so narrow 
 as to have the appearance of canals, and then 
 again expanding into large sheets of water. Every- 
 where the shores are low, and have a most irre- 
 gular outline formed by a succession of reed-covered 
 capes and deep bays. 
 
 After sailing for a distance of six or eight miles 
 we came to what appeared at first sight to be a 
 canal leading out of the lake. It proved, however, 
 to be merely a neck of water which led into 
 another lake equal in size to that which we had 
 just crossed. And so we went on during the 
 whole day through this dreary region. The low 
 marshy shores seemed to be thinly inhabited, 
 although in the neighbourhood of the richest and 
 most populous part of the Chinese empire ; indeed, 
 almost the only sign of the place being inhabited 
 by human beings was, strange to say, the numerous 
 coffins and graves of the dead, which were con- 
 tinually coming into view as we sailed along. 
 It is not improbable, however, that many of 
 these had been brought from other districts to 
 those lucky spots and laid down, or interred 
 
338 
 
 LAKES AND MARSHY COUNTRY. Chap. XYI. 
 
 according to circumstances, by the surviving re- 
 latives. 
 
 The lakes themselves had a much more lively 
 appearance than those dreary shores. The white 
 and brown sails of boats like our own were ob- 
 served in great numbers making for the mouths 
 of the various canals which form the highways to 
 the large towns and cities in this part of China. 
 Those seen going in a southerly direction were 
 hound for Hang-chow-foo, and the towns in that 
 district ; those sailing northwards were on their 
 way to Soo-chow-foo, while those going in the 
 same direction as ourselves were for the silk 
 country and its rich and populous cities. 
 
 The water of the lakes was as smooth as glass, 
 and in many places very shallow. Various species 
 of water-plants, such as Trapa bicornus, Nympheas, 
 &c., were common, while here and there I came 
 upon the broad prickly leaves of Euryale ferox 
 covering the surface of the water. 
 
 In the afternoon the scenery began to assume 
 an appearance somewhat different from that of 
 the morning. The country was evidently getting 
 higher in level and more fertile and populous. 
 To the westward I thought I could detect a real 
 boundary to the waters, hut I did not feel quite 
 certain of this as I had been deceived several 
 times during the day. About five p.m. we arrived 
 at a place named Ping-wang or Bing-bong, as it 
 is pronounced in the dialect of the district. This 
 proved to he a small hustling town on the edge of 
 
VIEW UN THE GRAND UANAL, WITH MULBERRY-TREES ON IT 
 
Chap. XYI. LAKES AND MARSHY COUNTRY. 
 
 339 
 
 the lakes, and rather important from the central 
 position which it occupies. Fine navigable canals 
 lead from it to all the important towns of this 
 large and fertile plain. A very fine one leads on 
 to the city of Hoo-chow to which I was bound. 
 On one side it has a substantial paved pathway, 
 which is a high road to foot-passengers, and is 
 also used by the boat-people in tracking their 
 boats and junks. I was now able to leave my 
 boat to be sculled slowly along, and walk along 
 the banks of the canal. 
 
 I had reached the eastern borders of the great 
 silk country of China — a country which in the 
 season of 1853-54 exported upwards of 58,000 
 bales of raw silk. 
 
 The mulberry was now observed on the banks of 
 the canal, and in patches over all this part of the 
 country. The lakes which I had passed through, 
 and which I have endeavoured to describe, were 
 now left behind, and a broad and beautiful canal 
 stretched far away to the westward, and led to 
 the great silk-towns of Nan-tsin and Hoo-chow- 
 foo. Hitherto the country had been completely 
 flat, but now some hills at a great distance on my 
 right-hand came into view. These I afterwards 
 ascertained were the T u n g-t/i n g-shan s , situated on 
 the T‘ai-hu Lake — one of the largest lakes in China, 
 which covers a considerable extent of country 
 between the cities of Hang-chow-foo and Soo- 
 chow-foo. As we passed along the country seemed 
 exceedingly rich and fertile ; and mulberry-planta- 
 
 2 A 
 
340 
 
 VISIT THE TOWN OF NAN-TSIN. Chap. XVI. 
 
 tions met the eye in every direction. A great 
 quantity of rice was also produced on the lower 
 lands. The natives seemed well to do in the 
 world, having plenty of work without oppression, 
 and enough to procure the necessaries and simple 
 luxuries of life. It was pleasant to hear their 
 joyous and contented songs as they laboured 
 amongst the mulberry-plantations and rice-fields. 
 
 In the evening we arrived at Nan-tsin, and as 
 I was anxious to see something of this celebrated 
 silk-town by daylight, I determined on remaining 
 there for a few days. Early next morning I was 
 up and on my way to see the town. Even at this 
 early hour — five a.m. — the roads were full of 
 people ; for like other nations the Chinese hold 
 their markets in the morning. The streets in the 
 town were lined with vegetables of all kinds, and 
 the fruits of the season were abundant and cheap, 
 particularly water-melons, peaches, plums, &c. 
 Butchers’ stalls groaned under loads of fat pork ; 
 there was an abundance of fresh and salt fish ; 
 ducks, geese, and fowls, were there in hundreds, 
 and, indeed, everything was there which could 
 tempt the eye of the Chinese epicure, except cats, 
 rats, and young puppies, and these are not appre- 
 ciated in this part of the country. 
 
 Frogs are in great demand in all the Chinese 
 towns, both in the north and south, wherever I 
 have been, and they were very abundant in Nan- 
 tsin. They abound in shallow lakes and rice 
 fields, and many of them are very beautifully 
 
Chap. XVI. 
 
 ITS SHOPS AND INHABITANTS. 
 
 341 
 
 coloured, and look as if they had been painted by 
 the hand of a first-rate artist. The vendors of 
 these animals skin them in the streets in the most 
 unmerciful and apparently cruel way which I have 
 already described. 
 
 There are many good streets and valuable shops 
 in Nan-tsin, but they are very much like what I 
 have seen and described in other cities in China. 
 What struck me most was the large quantity of 
 raw silk which was here exposed for sale. Soon 
 after daylight the country people began to arrive 
 with their little packets of silk, which they in- 
 tended to sell to the merchants. The shops for 
 the purchase of this article appeared to be very 
 numerous in all the principal streets. Behind the 
 counter of each shop stood six, eight, and some- 
 times more, clean, respectable-looking men, who 
 were silk inspectors, and whose duty was to exa- 
 mine the quality of the silk offered for sale, and to 
 name its value. It was amusing to notice the 
 quietness of these men compared with the cla- 
 morous crowds who stood in front of their shops 
 with silk for sale. Each one was expatiating on 
 the superior quality of his goods and the lowness 
 of the offer that had been made to him. Many of 
 the vendors were women, and in all instances they 
 were the most noisy. The shopmen took every- 
 thing very quietly, and rarely offered a higher 
 price than they had done in the first instance. 
 But notwithstanding all the noise and hustle 
 everything seemed to go on satisfactorily, and 
 
 2 a 2 
 
342 
 
 PRODUCERS OF RAW SILK. 
 
 Chap. XVI. 
 
 when the money was paid the people went off in 
 high spirits, apparently well satisfied with the 
 sales they had effected. 
 
 From the observations which I made at this 
 time on the farms and markets in this the great 
 silk country of China, it appears that, however 
 large in the aggregate the production of silk may 
 be in the country, this quantity is produced not by 
 large farmers or extensive manufactures, hut by 
 millions of cottagers, each of whom own and culti- 
 vate a few roods or acres of land only. Like bees 
 in a hive each contributes his portion to swell the 
 general store. And so it is with almost every 
 production in the celestial empire. Our favourite 
 beverage, tea, is produced just in the same way. 
 When the silk has thus been bought in small sam- 
 ples from the original producers, it is then the 
 business of the native inspectors and merchants to 
 sort it and arrange it into hales of similar quality 
 for home consumption or for exportation. 
 
 Nan-tsin is not a walled city, and politically it 
 is a place of small importance. But it is a place 
 of great wealth and size, extending for miles on 
 each side of the canal, and far hack into the 
 country. I believe there is a larger trade in silk 
 done here than even in the city of Hoo-chow-foo 
 itself. The people generally seemed to have 
 plenty of work, and judging from their clean, 
 healthy, and contented appearance, they are well 
 paid for their labour. 
 
 During my walk in the town I was surrounded 
 
Chap. XVI. DESCRIPTION OF SILK COUNTRY. 
 
 343 
 
 and followed by hundreds of the natives, all 
 anxious to get a view of the foreigner. But 
 except the inconvenience of the crowd I had 
 nothing to complain of, for all were perfectly civil 
 and in the best humour. 
 
 I spent the next few days in the vicinity of 
 Nan-tsin, and as it may be considered the centre 
 of the great silk country of China, I shall endea- 
 vour now to give a description of the cultivation 
 and appearance of the mulberry trees. 
 
 The soil over all this district is a strong yellow 
 loam, well mixed and enriched by vegetable 
 matter ; just such a soil as produces excellent 
 wheat crops in England. The whole of the sur- 
 face of the country, which at one period has been 
 nearly a dead level, is now cut up, and embank- 
 ments formed for the cultivation of the mulberry. 
 It appears to grow better upon the surface and 
 sides of these embankments than upon level land. 
 The low lands, which are, owing to the formation 
 of these embankments, considerably lower than 
 the original level of the plain, are used for the 
 production of rice and other grains and vegetables. 
 It is therefore on the banks of canals, rice fields, 
 small lakes and ponds, where the mulberry is 
 generally cultivated, and where it seems most at 
 home. But although large quantities of rice and 
 other crops are grown in the silk districts, yet the 
 country, when viewed from a distance, resembles a 
 vast mulberry garden, and when the trees are in 
 full leaf, it has a very rich appearance. 
 
344 
 
 METHOD OF CULTIVATING 
 
 Chap. XVI. 
 
 The variety of mulberry cultivated in this dis- 
 trict. appears to be quite distinct from that which 
 is grown in the southern parts of China and in the 
 silk districts of India. Its leaves are much larger, 
 more glossy, and have more firmness and substance 
 than any other variety which lias come under my 
 notice. It may be that this circumstance has 
 something to do with the superior quality of the 
 silk produced in the Hoo-chow country, and is 
 worthy of the notice of silk growers in other parts 
 of the world. 
 
 This peculiar variety is not reproduced by seed, 
 and hence all the plantations are formed of grafted 
 trees. Each plant is grafted from a foot to two 
 feet above the ground, and rarely higher. The 
 trees are planted in rows from five to six feet 
 apart, and are allowed to grow from six to ten 
 feet high only, for the convenience of gathering 
 the leaves. In training them they are kept open 
 in the centre ; the general outline is circular, and 
 they are not unlike some of those dwarf apple- 
 trees which are common in European gardens. 
 The accompanying sketch gives a good represen- 
 tation of the habit and form of one of those trees 
 which has attained its full size. 
 
 The different methods of gathering the leaves 
 in these districts are curious and instructive, and 
 show clearly that the cultivators well understand 
 the laws of vegetable physiology. Leaves are not 
 taken at all from plants in their young state, as 
 this would be injurious to their future productive- 
 
Chap. XY1. 
 
 THE MULBERRY. 
 
 345 
 
 ness. In other instances a few leaves only are 
 taken from the bushes, while the remainder are 
 
 Mulberry Tree. 
 
 allowed to remain upon the shoots until the 
 summer growth is completed. In the latter case 
 the leaves are invariably left at the ends of the 
 shoots. 
 
 When the bushes have attained their full size, 
 the young shoots with the leaves are clipped close 
 off by the stumps, and shoots and leaves carried 
 home together to the farm-yard to be plucked 
 and prepared for the worms. In the case of 
 young trees the leaves are generally gathered by 
 
346 
 
 THE MULBERRY TREE. 
 
 Chap. XYI. 
 
 the hand, while the shoots are left to grow on 
 until the autumn. At this period all the planta- 
 tions are gone over carefully ; the older bushes 
 are pruned close in to the stumps, while the shoots 
 of the younger ones are only shortened hack a 
 little to allow them to attain to the desired height. 
 The ground is then manured and well dug over. 
 It remains in this state until the following spring, 
 unless a winter crop of some kind of vegetable is 
 taken off it. This is frequently the case. Even 
 in the spring and summer months it is not unusual 
 to see crojDS of beans, cabbages, &c., growing under 
 the mulberry trees. 
 
 During the winter months the trees are gene- 
 rally hare and leafless. Those persons who are 
 accustomed to live in countries with marked sea- 
 sons, where the winters are cold, and where the 
 great mass of vegetation is leafless, would not be 
 struck with this circumstance in the silk country 
 of China. But the view one gets in this country 
 in the summer months, after the first clipping of 
 the shoots, is curious and striking. As far as the 
 eye can reach, in all directions, one sees nothing 
 but bare stumps. It looks as if some pestilential 
 vapour had passed over the plain and withered up 
 the whole of these trees. And the view is ren- 
 dered still more striking by the beautiful patches 
 of lively green which are observed at this time in 
 the rice-fields and on the banks of the canals. 
 This system of clipping close in to the stumps of 
 the old branches gives the trees a curious and 
 
Chap. XYI. 
 
 HILLS NEAR HOO-CHOW-FOO. 
 
 347 
 
 deformed appearance. The ends of the branches 
 swell out into a club-like form, and are much 
 thicker there than they are lower down. 
 
 The following sketch explains the state in which 
 those trees are seen after they have been deprived 
 of their stems and leaves. 
 
 
 Mulberry Tree. 
 
 After I had completed my inspection of the 
 country near the town of Nan-tsin, I proceeded 
 onwards to the west in the direction of Hoo-chow- 
 foo. A few hours’ sail on a wide and beautiful 
 canal brought me within view of the mountain 
 ranges which form the western boundary to the 
 
348 
 
 TEMPLES AND PRIESTS. 
 
 Chap. XVI. 
 
 great plain of the Yang-tse-kiang, through which 
 I had been passing for several days. The most 
 striking hill which came first into view was 
 crowned by a seven-storied pagoda. It had a 
 large tree by its side, equally striking in the dis- 
 tance, and which had probably been planted when 
 the pagoda was built. I afterwards ascertained this 
 to be the “maiden hair- tree” ( Salisburia adiantifolia), 
 a tree which attains a large size in this part of 
 China, and is extremely ornamental. 
 
 As I neared Hoo-cliow the general aspect of the 
 country appeared very different from that through 
 which I had been travelling for upwards of one 
 hundred miles. The general level seemed higher, 
 and little well-wooded hills adorned the surface of 
 the country. I visited these hills as I went along 
 for the purpose of examining their vegetation. 
 In most cases I found pretty temples near their 
 summits, surrounded with trees. From these spots 
 the most charming views were obtained of the 
 great mulberry plain, the city of Hoo-chow, and 
 the mountain ranges which form the background 
 towards the west. 
 
 In one of the temples which I visited I found a 
 priest who was a native of Ningpo, the town to 
 which my servants belonged. He received us 
 most cordially, and appeared glad to have an 
 opportunity of talking with his townsmen, and 
 getting all the news from his native place, which 
 he had not visited for several years. In one of 
 the cells of this temple we were shown a priest 
 
Chap. XVI. 
 
 TEMPLES AND PRIESTS. 
 
 349 
 
 who had been submitting to voluntary confinement 
 for nearly three years. It is not unusual to find 
 devotees of this kind in many of the Buddhist 
 temples of China. Although they never come out 
 of their cells until the time of their confinement 
 expires, they have no objection to see and con- 
 verse with strangers at their little windows. The 
 person whom we visited at this time received us 
 with Chinese politeness, asked us to sit down on a 
 chair placed outside his little cell, and gave us tea, 
 on the surface of which various fragrant flowers 
 were swimming. 
 
350 
 
 ENTER HOO-CHOW-FOO. 
 
 Chap. XVI 1. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 Enter tlie city of Hoo-chow-foo — Method of managing Chinese crowds 
 — Description of the city — Richness of the shops — Fans and silks 
 — Rich dresses of the people — Raw silk and hongs — Flowered 
 crapes — Chinese play and audience — How I perform my part ! — 
 Leave the city — Charming scenes in the country — Thrown silk — 
 Silk villages and their inhabitants — Temple of Wan-shew-si and 
 its priests — Taou-chang-shan pagoda — Glorious views from the 
 pagoda hill. 
 
 Ox the 17th of June I reached the city of Hoo- 
 chow-foo — the City of the Lakes and the capital 
 of the principal silk-country of China. According 
 to Chinese accounts, this city is about six miles in 
 circumference, and contains about a hundred thou- 
 sand families. Both of these statements are pro- 
 bably exaggerated, as the walls did not appear to 
 me to be more than three, or at most four, miles 
 round. As I was anxious to see something of the 
 interior of the city, I sent one of my men to pro- 
 cure a sedan-chair, for the day was excessively 
 warm. The chairmen soon made their appearance, 
 but as their demands for hire were so exorbitant, 
 I refused to comply with them and determined to 
 walk— a proceeding which, although not so com- 
 fortable, would enable me to see more of the shops 
 and people. 
 
 Entering at the south gate, I proceeded in a 
 northerly direction, and examined all the principal 
 
Chap. XYII. MANAGEMENT OF CHINESE CROWDS. 351 
 
 streets on my way. Thousands of people followed 
 me as I went along. They were very uproarious, 
 but good-humoured withal, and appeared delighted 
 with the opportunity of seeing a “ Pak Quei-tze,” 
 or white devil — a term by which foreigners are 
 designated in this civilized part of the world. 
 Although this term was sometimes used in a tone 
 of contempt or insult, showing that those who 
 used it fully understood its meaning, yet generally 
 it was not so. Upon one occasion some friends 
 of mine remonstrated with some of these polite 
 people, and endeavoured to explain to them that 
 the term was one to which we were not exactly 
 entitled, and that it was not very agreeable. In 
 reply the Chinese expressed surprise and regret 
 for having used the term and thus given offence ; 
 but innocently asked if we were not white devils ; 
 and if not, what we were, and by what name they 
 should call us ! 
 
 Alone as I now was, and surrounded by thou- 
 sands of Chinese in one of their inland cities, it 
 was absolutely necessary to keep my temper under 
 the most complete control. In circumstances of 
 this kind, if one laughs and jokes with the crowd, 
 and takes everything in good part, all will gene- 
 rally go well, for the Chinese are upon the whole 
 good-humoured and polite ; but if he by any chance 
 loses his temper, he will most certainly get the 
 worst of it, and most likely will be hooted and 
 pelted with stones. I had had some experience in 
 the management of Chinese crowds, and therefore 
 
352 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY. 
 
 Chap. XVII. 
 
 continued to be in the sweetest possible frame of 
 mind in the midst of the thousands who followed 
 me through the city as if I had been a wild animal 
 or “ white devil ” indeed. 
 
 As I threaded my way slowly along, in addition 
 to the dense crowds that followed and preceded 
 me, every window and doorway was crowded with 
 curious -looking faces all anxious, to get a view of 
 the foreigner. It was curious to mark the varied 
 expression in the different countenances. In some 
 there was a look of contempt, in others wonder 
 was strongly depicted ; but in the vast majority 
 there was wonder mingled with fear, as if I was in 
 reality a being from another world. Keeping on- 
 ward in a northerly direction, and diverging now 
 and then to the right or left, according as an 
 object of interest met my eye, I arrived at last at 
 the north gate of the city. Here I ascended the 
 ramparts in order to get a good view. Outside 
 the walls I observed a large dense suburb, with a 
 pretty pagoda and a canal leading through it in 
 the direction of the T‘ai-hu lake. Throwing my 
 eyes over the city, the roofs of the houses seemed 
 nearly all of the same height ; indeed this is a 
 striking characteristic of all Chinese towns which 
 I have visited. One rarely sees any difference in 
 the height of the houses except when a temple, a 
 pagoda, or a watch-tower disturbs the monotony 
 of the view. I believe the Chinese have a strong 
 prejudice against one house being raised higher 
 than the others. 
 
Chap. XVII. 
 
 RICHNESS OF THE SHOPS. 
 
 353 
 
 I now walked round the ramparts from the 
 north to the east gate, and then crossed the town 
 from east to west in the same leisurely way I had 
 done from south to north. A fine broad stream, 
 or rather canal, crosses the city from south to 
 north, and forms the chief highway for the boat- 
 traffic, for boats are the carriages in this part of 
 China and canals are the highways. This stream 
 was crowded with boats of all sizes ; some were 
 discharging goods and passengers at the jetties 
 on its banks, while others were hurrying onward 
 deeply laden with goods and passengers for other 
 parts of the country. 
 
 The city near the south gate by which I entered 
 had rather a poor appearance, but the centre, 
 and particularly the northern side, appeared rich 
 and densely populated. Many of the shops were 
 crowded with articles of great beauty and value. 
 The fronts of Chinese shops are not shut up as 
 ours are ; the interior is fully exposed to passers- 
 by, so that I got an excellent view of their con- 
 tents without the inconvenience of going inside. 
 The silk fans struck me as being more gorgeous 
 and handsome than any I had seen in other towns. 
 Manufactured crapes and silks were also plentiful, 
 and judging from the dresses of the people of both 
 sexes, these goods must be in great demand. I 
 have visited many Chinese towns, and I must say 
 I never saw the people as a whole better dressed 
 than those of Hoo-chow. Every person I met 
 above the common working coolie was dressed in 
 
354 
 
 FLOWERED CRAPES. 
 
 Chap. XYII. 
 
 silks or crape, and even the coolies have at least 
 one silk dress for holyday wear. 
 
 Although the fans and silks of Hoo-chow struck 
 me particularly when walking through the town, 
 it abounds also in all kinds of articles in common 
 use amongst the people. Embroidered shoes, hats, 
 caps, umbrellas, tobacco-pipes made of bamboo and 
 nicely painted, porcelain of all kinds, and indeed 
 every conceivable article in demand amongst the 
 natives. 
 
 But in Hoo-chow, as at Nant-sin, the great 
 trade of the place is in raw silk. Near the north 
 gate many large hongs were pointed out to me 
 where this trade is carried on most extensively. 
 Here the silk is sorted, stowed, and made up into 
 parcels, which are afterwards despatched to Shang- 
 hae, and offered for sale to foreign merchants. It is 
 estimated that about four-fifths of the silk produced 
 in this district is exported to Europe and America ; 
 hut considering the large quantity consumed by 
 the people themselves, I doubt if the proportion 
 exported is so large. 
 
 The greater part of the silks and crapes used in 
 this part of China are manufactured in the adjoin- 
 ing towns of Soo-chow and Hang-chow. Flowered 
 crape, however, a very beautiful production, is 
 made in Hoo-chow. The process of manufacture 
 is thus described by the Rev. Mr. Edkins in the 
 ‘ North China Herald — 
 
 “ Two men were engaged at a loom in a cottage 
 on the side of a stream. One sat at the end of the 
 
Chap. XVII. 
 
 FLOWERED CRAPES. 
 
 355 
 
 loom moving five pedals, and directing the shuttle 
 and all that needed to he done with the threads 
 that lay horizontal on the frame. The other was 
 perched overhead to superintend the pattern. This 
 he did by means of vertical threads tied up in 
 bundles, a large number of which, distributed 
 transversely through the threads of the horizontal 
 frame beneath him, were at his disposal. These 
 he raised according to the requirement of the pat- 
 tern, and thus caused that elevation in the threads 
 on the frame below that constituted the flowered 
 part of the piece.” 
 
 Like their countrymen all over China, the Hoo- 
 chow people are fond of the drama. During my 
 visit to the city a fine play was going on in one 
 of the temples near the north gate. I had many 
 pressing invitations, from individuals in the crowd 
 who were following me, to go and see the play. 
 But having seen many of these exhibitions on 
 former occasions, I had no wish to see this one, 
 more particularly as I knew well that all the 
 rabble in the town are generally collected about 
 such places. My companions, however, rather out- 
 witted me, and gained their point before I was 
 aware of it. . Having a kind of mania for collect- 
 ing ancient works of Chinese art, such as porcelain 
 vases, bronzes, enamels, and such things, I had 
 been making many enquiries regarding them as 
 we went along, and had already made several pur- 
 chases of considerable interest. I was now told by 
 a person in the crowd that he would take me to 
 
 2 b 
 
356 
 
 CHINESE PLAY AND AUDIENCE. Chap. XYII. 
 
 an old curiosity-shop hard by, where I would see 
 some fine things such as I wanted. Without sus- 
 pecting anything, I desired him to lead the way, 
 and I followed him. To my surprise, and I must 
 confess to my amusement too, for I was in a 
 capital humour, I found myself in a few minutes 
 ushered into the temple square, where two or three 
 thousand heads were gaping intently up to a plat- 
 form covered with actors, who were in the midst 
 of what appeared to be a most interesting melo- 
 drama, judging from the effect it had upon the 
 audience. I saw at once I had been duped, and, 
 looking for my guide and conductor, found that he 
 had disappeared, no doubt fully satisfied with the 
 part he had played. My part was now to enjoy 
 the joke and take it in good part, which I did not 
 fail to do. I was now pressed on all hands for 
 my opinion of the merit of the performance, which 
 I declared was inimitable. Nor was there any 
 flattery intended in this expression of opinion, for 
 I doubt much if such a performance could have 
 been got up out of the Celestial Empire. 
 
 It was some time before a large portion of the 
 crowd found out that a foreigner was amongst 
 them, so intent were they upon the performance, 
 and longer still before the eyes of the actors saw 
 me. By degrees, however, the news spread, and 
 all eyes were turned from the stage to where I 
 was standing. At first the actors seemed surprised 
 at the want of that attention to which they had 
 been accustomed, then they discovered the cause, 
 
Chap. XYII. 
 
 HOW T PERFORM MY PART ! 
 
 357 
 
 and, if possible, were more astonished than their 
 audience. In vain the prompter and leader of 
 the band urged them to go on ; their “ occupation 
 was gone ” until the greater attraction was re- 
 moved. Prudence now suggested that, having 
 thus come unexpectedly upon the scene and played 
 my part, it would be as well to withdraw while 
 there was time. I now bowed very politely to the 
 most respectable of the people who were standing 
 near me, and expressed my delight and thanks for 
 what I had seen. I then edged quietly out of the 
 crowd, a few of whom followed me, while the 
 greater part remained to enjoy the rest of the 
 performance, which I have no doubt was con- 
 cluded in a most satisfactory manner. 
 
 The day was now far advanced, and as I 
 had been surrounded by noisy, although good- 
 humoured, crowds since the morning, I was exces- 
 sively tired. I therefore made the best of my 
 way back to the southern suburbs, where I had 
 left my boat in a retired creek surrounded on all 
 sides by mulberry-trees. But even here I could 
 not get the quiet I wished for. Numbers followed 
 me to where my boat was moored, and pestered 
 me with all sorts of questions. It was generally 
 believed by them that I had come from Shanghae 
 for the sole purpose of buying silk, nor could my 
 assurances to the contrary convince them they 
 were mistaken. 
 
 In order to get rid of inquisitive crowds I now 
 gave orders to my boatmen to leave our moorings 
 
 2 b 2 
 
358 
 
 CHARMING SCENES 
 
 Chap. XYII. 
 
 and go on to the southwards ; but did not tell 
 them to what point we were bound. By this 
 means the crowds were quite puzzled, and returned 
 to their homes inside the city. In passing under 
 one of the bridges here, and often both before and 
 after this when in the same position, the head 
 boatman warned us not to speak ; for, said he, “ if 
 you do so, something evil will happen to us after- 
 wards.” There is a superstition amongst them, 
 to the effect that those who speak while passing 
 under a bridge will he punished by being involved 
 in a quarrel. 
 
 After passing out of the creek I found myself 
 on a broad and beautiful canal which leads to the 
 southwards in the direction of Hang-chow-foo. As 
 it was my intention to remain for some days in the 
 vicinity of Hoo-chow, we soon found a small creek 
 on the east side of this canal, which led up to the 
 bottom of a richly- wooded hill. Having sculled 
 the boat up there, we made her fast to the grassy 
 bank of the creek, and, while dinner was getting 
 ready, I went on shore. 
 
 It was a lovely evening — the 18 th of June — the 
 sun was just setting behind the high mountain- 
 ranges to the westward, and although the day had 
 been oppressively warm, the air was now compa- 
 ratively cool and enjoyable. I was in the midst of 
 most charming scenery, and although only about 
 two miles distant from a crowded and bustling 
 city, everything was perfectly quiet and still. 
 Overhead the rooks were seen returning home for 
 
Chap. XVII. 
 
 IN THE COUNTRY. 
 
 359 
 
 the day, and here and there on a solitary bush 
 or in a grove of trees the songsters of the woods 
 were singing their last and evening song of praise. 
 Mulberry-trees, with their large rich green leaves, 
 were observed in all directions, and the plantations 
 extended all over the low country and up to 
 the foot of the hills. The hills here were low 
 and isolated, and appeared as if they had been 
 thrown out as guards between the vast plain, 
 which extends eastwards to the sea, and the moun- 
 tains of the west. For the most part they were 
 covered with natural forests and brushwood, and 
 did not appear to have ever been under cultiva- 
 tion. In some parts their sides were steep — almost 
 perpendicular — while in others the slope was 
 gentle from their base to the summit. Here and 
 there some rugged-looking granite rocks reared 
 their heads above the trees, and were particularly 
 striking. 
 
 Looking to the hills, there all was nature pure 
 and unadorned, just as it had come from the hands 
 of the Creator ; but when the eye rested on the 
 cultivated plain, on the rich mulberry-plantations, 
 on the clear and beautiful canals studded with 
 white sails, the contrast was equally striking, and 
 told a tale of a teeming population, of wealth and 
 industry. 
 
 I remained for three days amongst these hills, 
 and employed myself in examining their natural 
 productions, and in making entomological collec- 
 tions. In some grassy glades in the woods I fre- 
 
360 
 
 THROWN SILK — SILK VILLAGES. Chap. XVII. 
 
 quently came upon little bands of natives engaged 
 in making thrown silk. A long, narrow frame- 
 work of bamboo of considerable length was con- 
 structed, and over this the threads were laid in 
 the state in which they came from the reel. At 
 the end of the frame collections of these threads 
 were attached to a number of round brass balls 
 about the size of marbles. A rapid motion was 
 communicated to the balls by a smart stroke be- 
 tween the palms of the hands. The workmen 
 went along the line of balls with the quickness 
 of lightning, striking one after the other and 
 keeping the whole in motion at the same time, 
 until the process of twisting the silk was com- 
 pleted. 
 
 The little silk-villages at the base of these hills 
 were all visited by me at this time, and although 
 the natives were much surprised at the presence 
 of a foreigner amongst them, yet generally they 
 were polite and hospitable. The same features of 
 wealth and comfort which I had already remarked 
 in other parts of the silk-country were apparent 
 here. The people were well dressed, had good 
 substantial houses to live in, and, judging from 
 their appearance, they were well fed. Nearly all 
 the respectable farm-houses were surrounded with 
 high walls. In addition to keeping their families as 
 private as possible, the object of having the houses 
 constructed in this way was probably for safety to 
 their property, which is often very valuable dur- 
 ing the silk season. I am not aware that these 
 
Chap. XVH. THE PAGODA OF WAN-SHEU-SI. 
 
 361 
 
 districts are much infested with thieves, but the 
 respectable Chinese country farmer is generally 
 very timid in his nature, and would much rather 
 incur considerable expense in making his house 
 secure than run any risk of having it plundered, 
 or to be obliged to defend it. 
 
 When I had completed my examination of this 
 part of the country, and made some interesting 
 entomological collections, I bade adieu to the hos- 
 pitable villagers. My object was now the pagoda 
 I had seen in the distance when nearing Hoo- 
 chow, with the large tree growing by its side, both 
 together forming the most striking landmark in 
 this part of China. It was only two or three miles 
 west from where I had been sojourning for the 
 last few days, and about two miles from the south 
 gate of the city. By means of canals and small 
 creeks I was enabled to get my boat nearly to the 
 foot of the hill on which the pagoda stands. It 
 being late in the evening when we arrived there, 
 I slept near a small village at the head of the 
 creek, and made arrangements to ascend the hill 
 early next morning. 
 
 Some time before daybreak my servant Tung-a 
 brought me a cup of tea, which I drank and then 
 made preparations for our journey. It seemed we 
 had anchored at the place to which worshippers 
 come in their boats when they are going to the 
 temple and pagoda. We found an excellent paved 
 road leading up to the monastery of Wan-sheu-si, 
 which is situated in a romantic hollow, a little 
 
362 
 
 TEMPLE OF WAN-SHEU-SI. 
 
 Chap. XVII. 
 
 below tbe hill on whose summit the pagoda stands. 
 The soil of these hills is sandy and barren, and 
 contrasts unfavourably with that in the rich plains 
 below. Avenues and clumps of pines ( Pinus si- 
 nensis), many of which had no doubt been planted 
 by the priests, lined the ascent, and gave it a very 
 pretty appearance. As we ascended by the wind- 
 ings of our mountain-road, we often lost sight of 
 the plain which we had left, and were surrounded 
 on all sides by hills. 
 
 Half-an-hour’s walk brought us near the doors 
 of the monastery of W an-sheu-si, a large and im- 
 posing building, or rather collection of buildings, 
 founded about a thousand years ago by a certain 
 Fuh-hu-shan-si — the “ Tamer of the Tiger.” His 
 picture is still preserved in the monastery, and 
 represents him seated on a tiger, whose ferocity 
 he had completely tamed, and who now was con- 
 tent to carry him over hill and dale and obey his 
 commands ! 
 
 The priests here — about thirty in number — re- 
 ceived me with great ceremony and kindness, and 
 ordered tea and cakes to be set before me. I was 
 also taken to see two hermits who were under- 
 going voluntary solitary confinement for a period 
 of three years. One of them had been nearly two 
 years shut up in his cell, and consequently had 
 another year to remain there before he could come 
 out again and mix with the world. 
 
 After partaking of the tea which the good 
 priests had kindly set before me — and very re- 
 
Chap. XYII. 
 
 VIEWS FROM PAGODA HILL. 
 
 363 
 
 freshing it was after my morning walk-— I pro- 
 ceeded up the hill towards the pagoda. Here I 
 was received by a solitary priest and a little boy 
 who seemed his servant. The priest took me into 
 a small room in which was a bed, a table, and a 
 few hooks — all he possessed in the world, so he 
 told me. He informed me, in answer to my ques- 
 tions, that the pagoda was called Taou-chang-sban- 
 ta. It appeared to be ancient, for the adjoining 
 temple, which had probably been built about the 
 same period, was now in a very ruinous condition. 
 Being curious to know what the tree was which, 
 with the pagoda, formed such a striking sight 
 when seen from a distance, I paid it a visit and found 
 it was the maidenhair-tree ( Salisburia adiantifolia) . 
 
 If the pagoda and maidenhair-tree were striking 
 from a distance, the view from the top of the hill 
 where they stood was equally so, and of quite a 
 different character. The hustling city of Hoo- 
 chow-foo, with its walls, rampart, and broad and 
 beautiful canals lay at my feet. Looking eastward 
 the country was perfectly flat as far as the eye 
 could reach — it is one vast rich and fertile mul- 
 berry-garden. On the west the prospect was 
 bounded by a long range of mountains, very irre- 
 gular in height, form, and general outline, and 
 some of them very high. The T‘ai-hu lake with 
 its islands — the Tung-ting-shans — were seen to the 
 north, and far away on the horizon to the south- 
 east the little hills near Chapoo are just visible on 
 a clear day. 
 
364 
 
 VIEW FROM PAGODA HILL. 
 
 Chap. XVH. 
 
 I gazed long with rapture upon the wonderful 
 scene which lay beneath and around me. Many 
 views which I have had both before and since that 
 time, when travelling in the Himalayas, have been 
 perhaps more grand and sublime, owing to the 
 stupendous height of these mountains, but as a 
 view of marvellous richness and loveliness that 
 from the top of Taou-chang-shan stands unrivalled. 
 
Chap. XYIII. 
 
 THE LUN-KE RIYER. 
 
 365 
 
 CHAPTER XYIII. 
 
 Ascend the Lun-ke river — A musical Buddhist high priest — Hoo- 
 shan monastery — Its silk-worms — Mode of feeding them — 
 General treatment — Their aversion to noise and bright light — 
 The country embanked in all directions — A farmer’s explanation of 
 this — Town of Mei-che — Silk-worms begin to spin — Method of 
 putting them on straw — Artificial heat employed — Reeling pro- 
 cess — Machine described — Work-people — Silk scenes in a 
 monastery — Industrious Buddhist priests • — Novel mode of catching 
 fish — End of silk season — Price of raw silk where it is produced. 
 
 I spent a week in the midst of this beautiful 
 scenery, and experienced nothing but kindness 
 and civility from the hundreds of natives with 
 whom I came daily in contact. During this time 
 I gained a good deal of information regarding the 
 hilly districts to the westward, which I intended 
 to penetrate before I left this part of the country. 
 I found that a river of considerable size flowed 
 up to the west gate of the city, and apparently 
 emptied itself into the net-work of canals which 
 cover this extensive plain ; and I was informed 
 that it was navigable for upwards of twenty miles 
 to boats much larger than the one I was travelling 
 in. My object now was to get my boat into that 
 river, and as all these rivers and canals are con- 
 nected this was accomplished without the least 
 difficulty. We returned to the south gate of Hoo- 
 
366 
 
 MUSICAL BUDDHIST HIGH PRIEST. Chap. XVIII. 
 
 chow, where we found a wide canal leading round 
 the walls to the west gate. Following this canal 
 we soon skulled round, and found ourselves on a 
 •wide and deep river which takes its rise amongst 
 the hills in the far west. It is called Lun-ke by 
 the natives, and probably one of its most distant 
 sources is near the celebrated Tein-muh-shan— a 
 mountain said to he the highest in this part of 
 China. 
 
 In sailing up this river I observed that the 
 plantations of mulberry still formed the staple 
 crop of the country on all the flat lands which 
 were raised above the surface of the rice-fields. 
 About sixty le west of Hoo-chow-foo I observed a 
 large monastery not very far from the banks of 
 the river, and as it seemed situated in the midst of 
 rich and luxuriant vegetation, I determined to 
 moor my boat to the banks of the river, and 
 remain in the neighbourhood for a few days. As 
 I was going up the road in the direction of the 
 temple I met an old respectable-looking priest 
 carrying a kind of flute or flageolet in his hand, 
 which he induced now and then to give out 
 not u nm usical sounds. His head was shaven 
 after the manner of the priests of Buddha ; but 
 the three nails on his left hand were each about 
 two inches in length, denoting that he did not 
 earn his bread by the sweat of his brow, and that 
 in fact he was one of the superiors in the order to 
 which he belonged. This old gentleman met me 
 in the most dignified manner, and did not express 
 
Chap. XVIII. HOOSHAN MONASTERY — SILK-' WORMS. 367 
 
 the least surprise at seeing a foreigner so far from 
 home. He asked me to accompany him home to 
 his temple, and when we arrived there he intro- 
 duced me to his own quarters and desired his 
 servants to set tea and cakes before me. He then 
 led me over all the halls and temples of the 
 monastery, which, although very extensive, were 
 in a most dilapidated condition. They were too 
 much like buildings of this kind in other parts of 
 the country to require any further notice. 
 
 If there was little to notice in these temples 
 with reference to Buddhism and its rites, there 
 were objects of another kind which soon attracted 
 my attention. The halls and outhouses of the 
 monastery seemed to be converted for the time 
 into a place for feeding silk-worms. Millions of 
 these little animals were feeding in round sieves, 
 placed one above another in open framework 
 made for this purpose. So great was the number 
 of the worms that every sieve — and there must 
 have been many hundreds of them — was crammed 
 quite full. In one large hall I observed the floor 
 completely . covered with worms. I shall never 
 forget the peculiar sound which fell upon my ear 
 as I opened the door of this hall. It was early in 
 the morning, the worms had been just fed, and 
 were at the time eagerly devouring the fresh 
 leaves of the mulberry. Hundreds of thousands 
 of little mouths were munching the leaves, and in 
 the stillness around this sound was very striking 
 and peculiar. The place too seemed so strange — 
 
368 
 
 MODE OF FEEDING SILK- WORMS. Chap. XYIII. 
 
 a temple — a place of worship with many huge 
 idols, some from twenty to thirty feet in height, 
 looking down upon the scene on the floor. But 
 to a Chinese there is nothing improper in con- 
 verting a temple into a granary or a silk-worm 
 establishment for a short time if it is required, and 
 I suppose the gods of the place are supposed to 
 look down with approbation on such scenes of 
 peaceful industry. 
 
 When from the large number of worms it is 
 necessary to feed them on floors of rooms and halls, 
 there is always a layer of dry straw laid down to 
 keep them off the damp ground. This mode of 
 treatment is resorted to from necessity, and not 
 from choice. The sieves of the establishment, 
 used in the framework I have already noticed, are 
 greatly preferred. 
 
 Whether the worms are fed on sieves or on the 
 floor they are invariably cleaned every morning. 
 All the remains of the leafstalks of the mulberry, 
 the excrement of the animals, and other impurities, 
 are removed before the fresh leaves are given. 
 Much importance is attached to this matter, as it 
 has a tendency to keep the worms in a clean and 
 healthy condition. The Chinese are also very 
 particular as regards the amount of light which 
 they admit during the period the animals are 
 feeding. I always observed the rooms were kept 
 partially darkened, no bright light was allowed to 
 penetrate. In many instances the owners were 
 most unwilling to open the doors, for fear, as they 
 
Chap. XYIII. APPEARANCE OF THE PEOPLE. 
 
 369 
 
 said, of disturbing them ; and they invariably 
 cautioned me against making any unnecessary 
 noise while I was examining them. 
 
 At this time nearly all the labour in this part 
 of the country was expended on the production of 
 the silk-worm. In the fields the natives were seen 
 in great numbers busily engaged in gathering the 
 leaves ; boats on the rivers were fraught with 
 them ; in the country market-towns they were 
 exposed for sale in great quantities, and every- 
 thing told that they were the staple article of 
 production. On the other hand, every cottage, 
 farm-house, barn and temple, was filled with its 
 thousands of worms which were fed and tended 
 with the greatest care. 
 
 This part of the country is very populous, 
 villages and small towns are scattered over it in 
 every direction, and the people have the same 
 clean and respectable appearance which I had 
 already remarked in other parts of the silk dis- 
 tricts. In making my observations on the rearing 
 of the silk-worm I visited many hundreds of these 
 towns and villages, and never in one instance had 
 any complaint to make of incivility on the part of 
 any one. 
 
 After staying a few days in the vicinity of the 
 temple of Hoo-shan — for such was its name — 
 I gave my boatmen directions to move onwards 
 further up the river. We passed a number of 
 pretty towns and villages on its banks, and arrived 
 at last at a place called Kin-hwa, where I remained 
 
370 
 
 EMBANKMENTS. 
 
 Chap. XVIII. 
 
 for two days, and employed myself in making 
 entomological collections and examining the pro- 
 ductions of the district. We then went onwards 
 to a small town cal ted Mei-che, which was as far as 
 the river was navigable for boats, and from thirty 
 to forty miles west from Hoo-chow-foo. 
 
 Here I moored my boat at a little distance from 
 the town, and determined to remain in the neigh- 
 bourhood long enough to examine everything of 
 interest which might present itself. Although 
 the country was comparatively level near the 
 banks of the stream, yet I was now surrounded on 
 all sides by hills, and the flat alluvial plain of the 
 Yang-tse-Kiang was quite shut out from my view. 
 In its general features it was rather curious and 
 striking. Everywhere it was cut up into ponds and 
 small lakes, and wide embankments of earth seemed 
 to cross it in all directions. At the first view it 
 was difficult to account for this state of things, and 
 I could not get any satisfactory reason for it, 
 either from my servants or boatmen. I knew 
 well, however, that the Chinese have a good and 
 substantial reason for everything they do, and 
 determined to apply to some farmer as the most 
 likely person to enlighten me. One day when 
 out on an excursion in the country I met an 
 intelligent-looking man, and to him I applied to 
 solve the difficulty. 
 
 “ These embankments,” said he, “ which you 
 now see cutting up the country in all directions, 
 were formed many hundred years ago by our 
 
Chap. XVIII. 
 
 THE TOWN OF MEI-CHE. 
 
 371 
 
 forefathers in order to protect themselves and 
 their crops from being washed away by the floods. 
 The vast plain, through which you have come 
 from Shanghae, is scarcely any higher in level than 
 where we now stand, for you will observe the tide 
 ebbs and flows quite up to Mei-che. With this slow 
 drainage for our mountain streams to the eastward 
 we have frequently a large body of water pouring 
 down upon us from the west, which overflows the 
 river’s banks and carries everything away before 
 it. The embankments which you observe run- 
 ning in all directions are intended to check these 
 floods, and prevent them from extending over the 
 country.” 
 
 Upon giving the matter a little consideration 
 I had no doubt that the explanation given by the 
 Chinese farmer was the correct one, and that how- 
 ever strange these embankments might appear 
 they were necessary for the safety of this part 
 of the country. 
 
 Mei-che is a long town on the banks of the 
 stream, and as the river is no longer navigable for 
 the low-country boats a considerable business is 
 done here in hill productions, which are brought 
 down for sale. They are put on board of boats 
 here, and conveyed in them to the towns in the 
 plains. 
 
 This town appears to be almost the western 
 boundary of the great silk country. Here the 
 mulberry plantations, although pretty numerous, 
 do not form the staple crop of the district, nor do 
 
 2 c 
 
372 
 
 PUTTING THE WORMS ON STRAW. Chap. XYIII. 
 
 they seem to grow with such luxuriance as they 
 do further to the east about Hoo-cliow and Nan- 
 tsin. Large quantities of rice and other grains 
 now take the place of the mulberry. In the moun- 
 tains to the west considerable quantities of tea are 
 produced, and fine bamboos which are sent down 
 to the low country are made into paper. A moun- 
 tain called Tein-muli-shan, celebrated amongst the 
 Chinese for its height and for its temples, lies to 
 the west of this, and further west still is the great 
 green-tea country of Hwuy-chow, which I examined 
 during my former visit to China. 
 
 On my way up from Hoo-chow-foo to Mei-che, 
 and about the 23rd of June, I observed that many 
 of the worms had ceased to feed and were com- 
 mencing to spin. The first indication of this 
 change is made apparent to the natives by the 
 bodies of the little animals becoming more clear 
 and almost transparent. When this change takes 
 place,, they are picked, one by one, out of the 
 sieves, and placed upon bundles of straw to form 
 their cocoons. These bundles of straw, which are 
 each about two feet in length, are bound firmly 
 in the middle ; the two ends are cut straight and 
 then spread out like a broom, and into these ends 
 the worms are laid, when they immediately fix 
 themselves and begin to spin. During this pro- 
 cess I observed the under side of the framework 
 on which the bundles of straw were placed sur- 
 rounded with cotton cloth to prevent the cold 
 draught from getting to the worms. In some 
 
Chap. XVIII. 
 
 REELING PROCESS. 
 
 373 
 
 instances small charcoal fires were lighted and 
 placed under the frame inside the cloth, in order 
 to afford further warmth. In some of the cottages 
 the straw covered with spinning worms was laid 
 in the sun under the verandahs in front of the 
 doors. 
 
 In a few days after the worms are put upon the 
 straw they have disappeared in the cocoons and 
 have ceased to spin. The reeling process now 
 commences, and machines for this purpose were 
 seen in almost every cottage. This apparatus 
 may be said to consist of four distinct parts, or 
 rather, I may divide it into these for the purpose 
 of describing it. There is, first, the pan of hot 
 water into which the cocoons are thrown ; second, 
 the little loops or eyes through which the threads 
 pass ; third, a lateral or horizontal movement, in 
 order to throw the silk in a zigzag manner over 
 the wheel ; and lastly the wheel itself, which is 
 square. Two men, or a man and woman, are 
 generally employed at each wheel. The business 
 of one is to attend to the fire and to add fresh 
 cocoons as the others are wound off. The most 
 expert workman drives the machine with his foot 
 and attends to the threads as they pass through 
 the loops over on to the wheel. Eight, ten, and 
 sometimes twelve cocoons are taken up to form 
 one thread, and as one becomes exhausted, another 
 is taken up to supply its place. Three, and some- 
 times four, of such threads are passing over on to 
 the wheel at the same time. The lateral or zig- 
 
 2 c 2 
 
374 
 
 WORK-PEOPLE. 
 
 Chap. XVIII. 
 
 zag movement of the machine throws the threads 
 in that way on the wheel, and I believe this is 
 considered a great improvement upon the Canton 
 method, in which the threads are thrown on in a 
 parallel manner. 
 
 The water in the pan into which the cocoons 
 are first thrown is never allowed to boil, but it is 
 generally very near the boiling point. I fre- 
 quently tried it and found it much too hot for 
 my fingers to remain in it. A slow fire of char- 
 coal is also placed under the wheel. As the silk 
 is winding, this fire is intended to dry off the 
 superfluous moisture which the cocoons have im- 
 bibed in the water in which they were immersed. 
 
 During the time I was in the silk country at 
 this time I was continually visiting the farm- 
 houses and cottages in which the reeling of silk was 
 going on. As silk is a very valuable production, 
 it is reeled with more than ordinary care, and 
 I observed that in almost all instances a clean, 
 active, and apparently clever workman was en- 
 trusted with the care of the reeling process. 
 
 The old temple at Hoo-shan, which I visited 
 again on my way down, was in a state of great 
 excitement and bustle. The quantity of silk pro- 
 duced here was very large, and all hands were 
 employed in reeling and sorting it. The priests 
 themselves, who generally are rather averse to 
 work of any kind, were obliged to take their 
 places at the wheel or the fire. But as the silk 
 was their own they seemed, notwithstanding their 
 
CURIOUS METHOD OF FISHING. Pa$e 
 
Chap. XVIII. NOVEL MODE OF FISHING. 
 
 375 
 
 habitual indolence, to work with hearty goodwill. 
 My old friend the Superior, however, was exempt 
 from labour. When I called, and found all the 
 verandahs and courts in a bustle, he was quietly 
 smoking his pipe and sipping his tea with his 
 favourite flageolet by his side. I remained with 
 him during the heat of the day, and in the 
 evening he walked down with me to the river side 
 where my boat was moored. He readily accepted 
 an invitation to come on board, and while there 
 took a great fancy to a copy of ‘ Punch ’ and the 
 ‘ Illustrated London News.’ I need not say I 
 made him a present of both papers, and sent him 
 away highly delighted. My boat now shot out 
 into the stream, and as we sailed slowly down I 
 could hear the wild and not unpleasing strains of 
 my friend’s flageolet as he wended his way home- 
 wards through the woods. 
 
 On our way down the river that night we came 
 upon some people fishing in a manner so curious 
 that I must endeavour to describe it. The boats 
 used for this purpose were long and narrow. 
 Each had a broad strip of white canvas stretched 
 along the right side, and dipping towards the 
 water at an angle of from thirty to forty degrees. 
 On the other side of the boat a net, corresponding 
 in size with the white cloth, was stretched along 
 above the bulwarks. A man sat in the stern of 
 each boat and brought his weight to bear on the 
 starboard side, which had the effect of pressing 
 the white canvas into the water and raising the 
 
376 
 
 NOVEL MODE OF FISHING. 
 
 Chap. XVIII. 
 
 net on the opposite side. A small paddle was 
 used for propelling the boat through the water. 
 This will be well understood by a glance at the 
 accompanying sketch. 
 
 As we approached these strange fishermen, I 
 desired my boatmen to take in our sail, and as 
 my boat lay still on the smooth surface of the 
 water, I watched their proceedings with much 
 interest. It was a fine, clear night, and I could 
 see distinctly the white canvas shining through 
 the water, although several inches beneath its 
 surface. The fishermen sat motionless and silent, 
 and scarcely noticed us when we joined them, so 
 intent were they upon their work. We had not 
 remained above a minute in the position we had 
 taken up, when I heard a splash in the water, 
 and distinctly saw a fish jump over the boat and 
 get caught by the net on its opposite side. The 
 object in constructing the boats in the manner I 
 have described was now apparent. It seemed that 
 the white canvas, which dipped like a painted 
 board into the water, had the effect of attracting 
 and decoying the fish in some peculiar manner, 
 and caused them to leap over it. But as the 
 boats were low and narrow, it was necessary to 
 have a net stretched on the opposite side to pre- 
 vent the fish from leaping over them altogether 
 and escaping again into the stream. Each fish, as 
 it took the fatal leap, generally struck against the 
 net and fell backward into the boat. 
 
 My boatmen and servants looked on this curious 
 
Chap. XVIII. 
 
 END OF SILK SEASON. 
 
 377 
 
 method of catching fish with as much interest as I 
 did myself, and could not refrain from expressing 
 their delight rather noisily when a poor fish got 
 caught. The fishermen themselves remained mo- 
 tionless as statues, and scarcely noticed us, except 
 to beg we would not make any noise, as it pre- 
 vented them from catching fish. 
 
 We watched these fishermen for upwards of an 
 hour, and then asked them to sell us some fish for 
 supper. Their little boats were soon alongside 
 of ours, and we purchased some of the fish which 
 we had seen caught in this extraordinary and 
 novel manner. 
 
 On the following morning, when I awoke, I 
 found myself quietly at anchor close by the west 
 gate of Hoo-cliow-foo, my boatmen having worked 
 all night. I spent the next few days in the 
 country to the northward bordering on the T‘ai- 
 hoo lake, and partly near the town of Nan-tsin, 
 being anxious to see the end of the silk season. 
 About the eighth, or from that to the tenth of 
 July, the winding of the cocoons had ceased almost 
 everywhere, and a few days after this there was 
 scarcely a sign of all that life and bustle which 
 is visible everywhere during the time that the 
 silk is in hand. The clash of the winding-ma- 
 chines, which used to be heard in every cottage, 
 farmhouse, and temple, had now ceased; the fur- 
 naces, pans, and wheels, with all the other parts 
 of the apparatus in common use during the wind- 
 ing season, had been cleared away, and a stranger 
 
378 
 
 PRICE OF RAW SILK. 
 
 Chap. XYIII. 
 
 visiting that country now could scarcely have be- 
 lieved that such a busy bustling scene had been 
 acting only a few days before. 
 
 During my perigrinations in the silk country I 
 made many inquiries amongst the natives as to 
 the price of raw silk in the districts where it is 
 produced. An inquiry of this kind is always 
 rather difficult in a country like China, where 
 the natives are too practical to believe one is 
 making such an inquiry merely for the purpose 
 of gaining information. On several occasions 
 the reply to my question was another, wishing to 
 know whether I wanted to buy. Most of the 
 natives with whom I came in contact firmly be- 
 lieved my object in coming to the silk-country 
 was to purchase silks ; and neither my assurances 
 to the contrary nor those of my servants, who 
 were generally appealed to on the subject, were 
 sufficient to make them change their opinion. I 
 believe, however, the information I gleaned from 
 various quarters at different times will be found 
 to be tolerably correct. At Mei-che the price 
 was said to range from twelve to eighteen dollars 
 for 100 taels of silk. At Hoo-chow and Nan- 
 tsin, where the silk is of a superior quality, the 
 prices in 1855 were from eighteen to twenty-two 
 dollars for 100 taels. The price of raw silk, like 
 that of everything else, no doubt depends in a 
 great measure upon the supply and demand, and 
 varies accordingly. 
 
Chap. XIX. 
 
 LEAVE THE SILK COUNTRY. 
 
 379 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Leave tlie silk country — Adventure at Nanziang — A visit from 
 thieves — I am robbed of everything — Unsuccessful efforts to trace 
 the robbers — Astonished by another visit from them — Its objects 
 — My clothes and papers returned — Their motives for this — A 
 visit to the Nanziang mandarin — Means taken to catch the robbers 
 — Two are caught and bambooed — My visit to the mandarin re- 
 turned — Arrive at Slianghae — Report the robbery to her Majesty’s 
 Consul — A portion of the money recovered — The remainder sup- 
 posed to be kept by the mandarins. 
 
 Having now finished my inspection of the silk- 
 districts I commenced my journey eastwards, in 
 the direction of Slianghae, where I had some im- 
 portant work awaiting me. I have already stated 
 in a former chapter that it was my intention to 
 call again at Cading on my way in order to pro- 
 cure some seeds which were not ripe when I 
 passed through that place en route to the silk- 
 country. On the evening of the third day I 
 arrived at a small town named Nanziang, a few 
 miles to the west of Slianghae, and not very far 
 from Cading, without having any adventures 
 worth recording in these pages. I could not 
 help thinking over the journey I had undertaken, 
 and the quiet and successful manner in which it 
 had been accomplished. Everywhere I had been 
 treated with civility and kindness by the natives ; 
 
380 
 
 ADVENTURE AT NANZIANG. 
 
 Chap. XIX. 
 
 I had had no trouble whatever with the authori- 
 ties ; and no complaints had been made by them 
 on account of my transgressing the boundary-line 
 drawn out for the restriction of barbarians, or 
 “ white devils,” as they so politely term us. 
 While congratulating myself upon these results 
 my boat grounded in the midst of the Nanziang 
 canal, and as at least a hundred were in the same 
 predicament ahead of us it was impossible for us 
 to proceed on our journey. My boatmen informed 
 me that it would be necessary to remain where we 
 were until the flood-tide came in, which would be 
 about two or three o’clock in the morning. I 
 was obliged to be contented with this arrange- 
 ment, and went on shore for a walk while my 
 servants were engaged in preparing dinner. 
 
 Between nine and ten o’clock in the evening 
 we retired to rest. As the night was excessively 
 close and warm I allowed the little glass windows 
 in the sides of my boat to remain open in order to 
 admit a little fresh air. These windows were so 
 small that no one could enter the boat by them or 
 take out any of the boxes which lay upon my 
 floor or table. I had, therefore, no suspicion of 
 there being any danger from the arrangement, 
 which added considerably to my comfort. As all 
 the people in the boat, as well as myself, were 
 early risers, and had plenty to do during the day, 
 we were soon fast asleep. 
 
 About two in the morning I was awakened by 
 a loud yell from one of my servants, and I sus- 
 
Chap. XIX. 
 
 A VISIT FROM THIEVES. 
 
 381 
 
 pected at once that we had had a visit from 
 thieves, for I had frequently heard the same 
 sound before. Like the cry one hears at sea 
 when a man has fallen overboard this alarm 
 can never be mistaken when once it has been 
 heard. When it had saluted my ear on former 
 occasions it had proceeded from other boats or 
 places in which I did not feel so great an in- 
 terest as I perhaps ought to have done. I do 
 not know how to describe it ; it sounds like 
 something between fear and defiance, and indi- 
 cates that were the thieves bold enough to fight 
 the defenders of property would probably run, 
 or if the thieves are inclined to run the others 
 might possibly follow them. In the present 
 instance, and before I had time to inquire what 
 was wrong, one of my servants and two of the 
 boatmen plunged into the canal and pursued the 
 thieves. Thinking that we had only lost some 
 cooking utensils, or things of little value that 
 might have been lying outside the boat, I gave 
 myself no uneasiness about the matter, and felt 
 much inclined to go to sleep again. But my 
 servant, who returned almost immediately, awoke 
 me most effectually. “ I fear,” said he, opening 
 my door, “ the thieves have been inside the boat, 
 and have taken away some of your property.” 
 “ Impossible,” said I, “ they cannot have been here.” 
 “ But look,” he replied, “ a portion of the side of 
 your boat under the window has been lifted out ; 
 I shall light a candle and have it examined.” 
 
382 
 
 ROBBED OF EVERYTHING. 
 
 Chap. XIX. 
 
 Turning to the place indicated by my servant 
 I could see, although it was quite dark, that there 
 was a large hole in the side of the boat not more 
 than three feet from where my head had been 
 lying. At my right hand, and just under the 
 window, the trunk used to stand in which I was 
 in the habit of keeping my papers, money, and 
 other valuables. On the first suspicion that I was 
 the victim I stretched out my hand in the dark to 
 feel if this was safe. Instead of my hand resting 
 on the top of the trunk, as it had been accustomed 
 to do, it went down to the floor of the boat, and I 
 then knew for the first time that the trunk was 
 gone. At the same moment my servant Tung-a 
 came in with a candle and confirmed what I had 
 just made out in the dark. The thieves had done 
 their work well — the boat was empty. My money, 
 amounting to more than one hundred Shanghae 
 dollars, my accounts and other papers, including, 
 gentle reader, this journal which has been amus- 
 ing and instructing you — all, all, were gone. 
 The rascals had not left me even the clothes I had 
 thrown off when I went to bed. 
 
 But there was no time to lose ; and in order to 
 make every effort to catch the thieves, or at least 
 get back a portion of my property, I jumped into 
 the canal, and made for the banks. The tide had 
 now risen, and instead of finding only about two 
 feet of water — the depth when we went to bed — I 
 now sank up to the neck, and found the stream 
 very rapid. A few strokes with my arms soon 
 
Chap. XIX. EFFORTS TO TRACE THE ROBBERS. 383 
 
 brought me into shallow water, and to the shore. 
 Here I found the boatmen rushing about in a 
 frantic manner, examining with a lantern the 
 bushes and indigo vats on the banks of the canal, 
 but all they had found was a few Manilla cheroots 
 which the thieves had dropped apparently in their 
 hurry. After looking carefully in all directions 
 nothing more could be found. A watchman with 
 his lantern, and two or three stragglers, hearing 
 the noise we made, came up and enquired what 
 was wrong, but when asked whether they had 
 seen anything of the thieves shook their heads 
 and professed the most profound ignorance. 
 
 The night was pitch dark, everything was per- 
 fectly still, and with the exception of the few strag- 
 glers already mentioned, the whole town seemed 
 sunk in a deep sleep. We were, therefore, perfectly 
 helpless, and could do nothing further. Calling 
 my people together I desired them to put out the 
 light and to lie down amongst the long grass 
 which grew on the banks of the canal. In this 
 position they were desired to remain perfectly 
 quiet, and should any person come prowling about 
 he was to be seized without question or warrant. 
 I thought it just possible the thieves might have 
 left some of their plunder in the hurry, and that, 
 when all was quiet, they might return in order to 
 secure it. Having thus formed my plans and set 
 the watch I returned, in no comfortable frame of 
 mind, to my boat, leaving orders to be called 
 should anything of importance take place. 
 
384 
 
 ANOTHER VISIT FROM THIEVES. Chap. XIX. 
 
 Dripping with wet, and rather low-spirited on 
 account of the misfortune which had befallen me, 
 I lay down on my couch without any inclination 
 to sleep, as may easily he imagined. It was a se- 
 rious business for me to lose so much money, hut 
 that part of the matter gave me the least uneasi- 
 ness. The loss of my accounts, journals, drawings 
 and numerous memoranda I had been making 
 during three years of travel, which it was impos- 
 sible for anyone to replace, was of far greater im- 
 portance. I tried to reason philosophically upon 
 the matter ; to persuade myself that as the thing 
 could not be helped now it was no use being vexed 
 with it ; that in a few years it would not signify 
 much either to myself or anyone else whether I 
 had been robbed or not ; hut all this fine reason- 
 ing would not do. 
 
 I may have lain about an hour in this pleasing 
 frame of mind, brooding over my ill luck, my people 
 were still on shore, the night was very dark, and 
 everything was perfectly quiet and still. Foot- 
 steps were now heard coming down the pathway 
 on the opposite side of the canal from that on 
 which my men were posted. Although we did 
 not expect anything to turn up from that quarter 
 we were all attention, and when we could see two 
 figures halt abreast of our boat our excitement was 
 at a very high pitch. “Louda, louda,”* cried one 
 of them, addressing the head boatman. My men 
 immediately started up from their concealment on 
 
 A term always applied to the captain or head man of the boat. 
 
Chap. XIX. MY CLOTHES AND PAPERS RETURNED. 385 
 
 the opposite side and demanded what our visitors 
 wanted. “ Louda,” said the same voice, with the 
 greatest coolness, and as if he was transacting a 
 very ordinary piece of business, “ come over here 
 and receive the ‘ white devil’s ’ trunks and clothes.” 
 
 My first impulse on hearing this conversation 
 was to rush out of the boat and endeavour to seize 
 these men, who I had no doubt were the thieves. 
 But common-sense told me that any endeavour to 
 do this in the darkness would surely fail, and 
 might endanger the safety of the things they had 
 brought back. It also struck me that, as the most 
 valuable part of my property was of no use to 
 them, I might possibly recover my books and 
 papers. These considerations induced me to re- 
 main quiet in the boat and allow the Chinese to 
 manage matters in their own way. 
 
 When my men reached the opposite side of the 
 canal the thieves had disappeared, but had left on 
 the banks my boxes and clothes. On these being 
 brought into my cabin the first thing I examined 
 was the box in which I kept my money and 
 papers. I saw at the first glance that the pad- 
 lock had been wrenched off, but the lid was now 
 fastened carefully down with a piece of twine. 
 On cutting this I observed that a small box inside 
 in which I had kept my money had also been cut 
 open, and the dollars were all gone. But every- 
 thing else in the trunk, although bearing evident 
 marks of having been under the examination of 
 the thieves, had been carefully put back. My 
 
386 
 
 MOTIVES FOR RETURNING THEM. Chap. XIX. 
 
 accounts, books, journals, and all that I valued 
 most, bad been returned to me. Many things, 
 such as knives, pencils, &c., which are highly 
 valued by the Chinese, were left untouched ; and 
 even the very padlock of the trunk had been put 
 carefully inside. It was the same with my clothes. 
 Coats, waistcoats, trousers, and even the necktie 
 which I had thrown on the table when I went to 
 bed — everything was returned except the dollars. 
 
 This proceeding on the part of the robbers sur- 
 prised me greatly, and although I regretted the 
 loss of the money I was truly thankful that I 
 had come off so well. What an extraordinary 
 people the Chinese are, and how difficult to under- 
 stand ! The thieves of any other nation would 
 never have thought of bringing back what they 
 did not want; if they do not appropriate the 
 whole of their booty they either destroy it or 
 throw it away. Chinese thieves are much more 
 considerate and civilized ; they return what does 
 not suit their purpose to keep ! 
 
 It is not difficult for a person acquainted with 
 the manners and government of the Chinese to see 
 the propriety and convenience of such a proceed- 
 ing. In China almost every man is responsible in 
 some way or another for the acts of his neighbour. 
 If a disturbance takes place in a shop or private 
 dwelling the owner of the place is liable to be 
 called upon for an account of it by the authorities ; 
 if a fight occurs in the public street the people in 
 the neighbourhood are held responsible ; and in 
 
Chap. XIX. VISIT TO THE NANZIANG MANDARIN. 387 
 
 this manner every man is made responsible, to a 
 certain extent, for what goes on around him. In 
 this state of things it will easily be perceived that 
 the gentry who robbed me acted wisely in bring- 
 ing back all articles which, while they were of no 
 use to them, might have led in some way to their 
 detection. And, no doubt, this was the motive 
 by which they were actuated, and not any regard 
 for my convenience. But I felt truly grateful to 
 them nevertheless, and in this frame of mind I 
 retired again to rest after having secured the 
 windows of the boat and set one of the men to 
 watch. 
 
 As soon as daylight appeared I dressed myself 
 and took my servant and one of the boatmen to 
 the house of the highest mandarin in the town, in 
 order to inform him what had happened to us 
 during the night, and to ask him to take steps for 
 the detection of the thieves and the recovery of 
 the money. When we reached his Ya-mun, we 
 were told by his servants that he was not yet 
 awake. On explaining to them that my business 
 was urgent, they promised to carry my message to 
 their master, and politely showed me into the 
 audience hall. 
 
 I had not been here for more than five minutes, 
 when the mandarin himself appeared, dressed in 
 his official robes, which he had apparently thrown 
 very hurriedly on. As he entered the hall he 
 made me several most polite bows, which, as in 
 duty bound, I did not fail to return. As is usual 
 
 2 D 
 
388 
 
 ATTEMPT TO TRACE THE THIEVES. Chap. XIX. 
 
 in sucli cases, we had a long discussion as to who 
 should occupy the seat of honour on the left side 
 of a raised table at the end of the hall. He suc- 
 ceeded at last in getting me into it, and then 
 ordered tea and pipes to he brought and set 
 before us. 
 
 We now entered upon the business which had 
 brought me to pay this visit. I told him that I 
 had been travelling for some time in the interior 
 of the country, and that I had never been plun- 
 dered or molested in any way until I had come to 
 Nanziang, which was under his jurisdiction. He 
 expressed his great regret and indignation, and 
 told me he was sorry to say that there were more 
 thieves and bad characters about his district than 
 that of any other magistrate in this part of China. 
 I then hinted that no time ought to be lost in 
 endeavouring to trace the thieves, and called my 
 servants, who were outside, to explain particularly 
 how and where the robbery had taken place. 
 
 An inferior officer was now sent for, and directed 
 to send off runners in every direction to obtain 
 information, and if possible to capture the thieves. 
 Another was sent to accompany me down to where 
 my boat was lying, to examine the manner in 
 which the thieves had entered it, and to make 
 inquiries amongst the people in the neighbour- 
 hood. Having thus put things in train, I hade 
 good-by to the mandarin, and took my leave with 
 an invitation to call upon him again in the even- 
 ing, or on the following morning, when lie might 
 
Chap. XIX. MANDARIN RETURNS MY VISIT. 
 
 389 
 
 be able to give me some information regarding 
 the recovery of my property. 
 
 When we reached my boat, the officer who 
 accompanied me made a minute examination of the 
 mode in which the thieves had effected an entrance. 
 I now observed what I was not aware of before, 
 that a portion of the boat under the window was 
 made to lift out ; the thieves, no doubt well aware 
 of this, had only to lift out the window, undo the 
 fastenings inside, and take out a board larger than 
 the window itself, and quite large enough to admit 
 a man or to remove any of my boxes. After 
 examining these matters, and taking down on 
 paper a list of all the articles taken away, those 
 returned to me, and the missing dollars, the 
 officer took his leave in order to prosecute his 
 inquiries. 
 
 The news of the robbery by this time had spread 
 over all the town. Hundreds of people came to 
 look at the boat, and to make inquiries as to the 
 truth of what they had heard. 
 
 In the afternoon the mandarin whom I had 
 visited in the morning came to return my visit, 
 and to inform me the police had caught one of the 
 thieves. On inquiring if they had recovered the 
 money an evasive answer was given, which I did 
 not much like ; so I repeated the question. He 
 then told me that the money would be forthcoming 
 in due time, but that it would be necessary to beat 
 the man with the bamboo that night, and that I 
 should be informed in the morning what success 
 
 2 d 2 
 
390 
 
 TWO OF THE THIEVES BAMBOOED. Chap. XIX. 
 
 had attended this operation. Before taking his 
 leave he expressed a wish that I would not leave 
 Nanziang until the next afternoon, when he 
 trusted all would he arranged to my satisfaction. 
 He was very averse to my making any complaint 
 to the English authorities in Shanghae about what 
 had happened. 
 
 Early next morning, one of my boatmen who 
 had been in the town informed me, apparently 
 with great satisfaction, that two of the thieves had 
 been caught and bambooed, and that it was 
 reported the money had been recovered. As I did 
 not intend troubling the authorities until the 
 evening, I walked across the country to Cading, in 
 order to procure samples of some seeds which I 
 had marked when there some weeks before. 
 
 On returning to my boat in the evening, I 
 despatched my servant to the office of the authori- 
 ties, with a message stating that I had remained 
 for two days with the prospect of having my pro- 
 perty recovered, but that it was my intention now 
 to proceed to Shanghae, and report the matter to 
 the English consul. A very polite message came 
 hack stating that the thieves were to he treated 
 with another hambooing that night, and asking me 
 to wait the results. Thinking that the mandarins 
 were trifling with me, and that more would be 
 gained by my absence than presence, I returned 
 my compliments, stating I could wait no longer, 
 and that as soon as the money was recovered I 
 would feel obliged if it was sent to the care of Her 
 
Chap. XIX. PORTION OF THE MONEY RECOVERED. 391 
 
 Majesty’s consul in Shanghae. My servants and 
 boatmen assured me it bad been recovered, and 
 that the mandarins could pay it if they liked. 
 
 As Nanziang was within the boundary line 
 within which foreigners are supposed to range, I 
 reported the circumstance to Mr. Robertson, Her 
 Majesty’s consul, and requested he would be good 
 enough to assist me in getting back the money. 
 Had the thieves not been found this perhaps would 
 have been scarcely attended with any success ; hut 
 as I felt certain the Nanziang mandarins had my 
 property in their own hands, I was rather loth to 
 let it remain there. 
 
 A few weeks after this I received from the vice- 
 consul, Mr. Harvey, a handkerchief containing 
 thirty-five dollars, a number of small new three- 
 penny pieces, which I used to carry for giving 
 away amongst the children, a brass ring and seal, 
 and various other little things which I had not 
 missed until they were restored to me. The re- 
 mainder of the money was no doubt retained by 
 the worthy mandarins to pay for their civility and 
 entertainment. The labourer is worthy of his 
 hire ! 
 
392 
 
 TEA-MAKERS ENGAGED FOR INDIA. Chap. XX. 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Tea-makers from Fokien and Kiangse engaged for India — Ning-ckow 
 tea country — Formerly produced green teas — Now produces black 
 
 — How this change took place — Difficulty in getting the men off 
 
 — One of them arrested for debt — All on board at last and sent on 
 to Calcutta — Coast infested with pirates — Ningpo missionaries 
 robbed — Politeness of the pirates — Their rendezvous discovered — - 
 Attacked and destroyed by the ‘ Bittern ’ — A mandarin in difficulty 
 
 — The English “ don’t fight fair ” — Liberality of the Chinese and 
 English merchants — Captain Vansittart’s reward. 
 
 On my arrival at Sliangliae I found that the 
 efforts I had been making in order to secure the 
 services of some firstrate black-tea manufacturers 
 for the Government Plantations in the Himalayas 
 had been successful. Eight men, natives of Fo- 
 kien, and well acquainted with the method of 
 making the finest teas of Tsin-tsun and Tsong-gan 
 — districts situated on the south side of the great 
 Bohea mountains, famous for the superior quality 
 of their black teas — had been engaged by Mr. 
 Clark at Foo-chow-foo, and were now on their 
 way to Hongkong and India. They had taken 
 with them an ample supply of the implements in 
 use in those districts for the purpose of manu- 
 facturing the leaves, and thus one of the chief 
 objects I had in view in coming to China, after 
 many delays and difficulties, had been successfully 
 accomplished. 
 
Chap. XX. 
 
 NING-CHOW TEA COUNTRY. 
 
 393 
 
 Mr. Brooke Robertson, Her Majesty’s Consul at 
 Shanghae, had also been unceasing in liis efforts 
 to assist me in procuring manufacturers for the 
 Indian plantations. Through his influence nine 
 men, natives of the province of Kiangse, were 
 now induced to engage themselves to go to India. 
 The tea districts in this province, which border the 
 Poyang lake, have risen into great importance 
 within the last fifty years. Moiling and Ring- 
 chow * teas are all produced in this part of the 
 country, and are largely exported to Europe and 
 America. 
 
 During the days of the East India Company’s 
 Charter all the best black teas were produced in 
 the province of Fokien. The towns of Tsin-tsun 
 and Tsong-gan in the vicinity of the far-famed 
 Woo-e hills were then the chief marts for the best 
 black teas exported by the Company. At that 
 period the districts about Ring-chow, in the 
 Kiangse province, were known only for their 
 green teas. Row, however, and for many years 
 jiast, although the Fokien black teas are, and have 
 been, largely exported, those produced in the 
 Ring-cliow districts have risen in public estima- 
 tion, and, I believe, generally fetch very high 
 prices in the English market. 
 
 If there is any one now who still clings to the 
 old idea that green teas can be made only from 
 the plant called Thea virides, and black ones only 
 
 * Names of districts well known to merchants engaged in the tea 
 trade with China. 
 
394 NING-CHOW NOW PRODUCES BLACK TEA. Chap. XX. 
 
 from Thea bohea , lie will find a difficulty in giving 
 credit to the account I have to give of the manner 
 in which the Ning-chow districts have changed 
 their green teas into black. But, however diffi- 
 cult it may be to get rid of early prejudices, 
 “ facts are stubborn things,” and the truth of what 
 I have to state may be fully relied upon. 
 
 Many years ago a spirited Chinese merchant 
 who, no doubt, saw well enough that black and 
 green teas could he made easily enough from the 
 same plant, had a crop of black teas made in the 
 Ning-chow district and brought to Canton for 
 sale. This tea was highly approved of by the 
 foreign merchants at that port, and was bought, 
 I believe, by the great house of Messrs. Dent and 
 Company, and sent to England. When it got 
 home it found a ready sale in the market, and 
 at once established itself as a black tea of the 
 first class. Year by year after this the demand 
 for this tea steadily increased and was as regularly 
 supplied by the Chinese. At the present time 
 the Ning-chow districts produce black teas only, 
 while in former days they produced only green. 
 If proof were wanting, this would appear sufficient 
 to show that black or green teas can he made from 
 any variety of the tea plant, and that the change 
 of colour in the manufactured article depends en- 
 tirely upon the mode of manipulation.* 
 
 From the high character these Ning-chow teas 
 
 * A full description of this will be found in my ‘ Journey to the Tea 
 Countries,’ to which I beg to refer those interested in the matter. 
 
Chap. XX. DIFFICULTY IN GETTING THE MEN OFF. 395 
 
 had acquired in foreign markets I was well- 
 pleased in being able to engage the services of 
 manufacturers from that district. An engage- 
 ment was drawn up in English and Chinese by 
 Mr. Sinclair, interpreter to the Consulate, which 
 was signed by the men and by myself ; an ad- 
 vance of one hundred dollars was given to each 
 man for the support of their families during their 
 absence, and they were desired to hold themselves 
 in readiness to sail by the first steamer. An old 
 mandarin with a white button, a native of Kiangse, 
 and head of the Kiangse hong in Shanghae, at- 
 tended with the men at the Consulate, and became 
 security for them at the time that each man re- 
 ceived his advance of wages. 
 
 The steamer destined to convey these inland 
 Chinamen from the shores of their native land 
 was advertised to sail on the 10th of August 1855. 
 I had given them timely notice of this, and desired 
 them to meet me in front of Mr. Beale’s house, at 
 least two hours before the hour appointed for 
 sailing, for I knew well how Chinese procrastinate, 
 and anticipated some difficulty in getting them all 
 on hoard in time. It was some time after the 
 appointed hour before any of them made their 
 appearance, and I began to fear they would draw 
 back and object to embark at the last moment, 
 even after they had had a liberal advance of 
 wages and after their passage-money to Hong- 
 kong had been paid. At last, however, all except 
 one made their appearance with their beds, trunks, 
 
396 
 
 ONE MAN ARRESTED. 
 
 Chap. XX. 
 
 and many other necessaries which they supposed 
 would he required on the voyage. The old white- 
 buttoned mandarin who had become security for 
 them, accompanied them to see them safely away, 
 and very anxious he seemed to be to get them off, 
 and thus get rid of the responsibility which he 
 had taken upon his shoulders, and for which he, 
 no doubt, took care to be well paid. 
 
 But now another difficulty presented itself in 
 the shape of a creditor who came down and seized 
 one of the men for debt. In the noise which 
 accompanied and succeeded this seizure it was 
 quite impossible to understand the nature of the 
 case, and to interfere in the matter would only 
 have made things worse. There was nothing to 
 he done except to wait as patiently as possible 
 and allow the contending parties to settle' the 
 matter themselves. The business was arranged 
 in some way at last, and as a boat was alongside 
 the jetty, we got them into it and sculled off to 
 the steamer, which was lying in the middle of the 
 river with her steam up and ready for sea. 
 
 As the ninth man did not make his appearance, 
 I told the old mandarin with the white button 
 that he would have to return me the hundred 
 dollars I had advanced and the amount of the 
 man’s passage-money, should it not he refunded 
 by the agents of the Peninsular and Oriental 
 Company. This he acknowledged was perfectly 
 just, hut at this moment another man came on 
 board and offered to go as a substitute for the 
 
Chap. XX. 
 
 MEN SENT TO CALCUTTA. 
 
 397 
 
 runaway. On inquiry I ascertained this man was 
 also a black-tea maker from Kiangse, and as all 
 tlie others affirmed him to be a first-rate work- 
 man, I consented to accept him in lieu of the 
 other. By the time we had concluded this ar- 
 rangement the vessel’s anchor was at the bows, 
 and we steamed away rapidly down the river and 
 out to sea. 
 
 My difficulties, in so far as these men were con- 
 cerned, were now over, and I was heartily glad 
 that my efforts had thus been crowned with com- 
 plete success. As all these men were from a 
 district several hundred miles inland, and had 
 never been to sea in their lives, I was most 
 anxious that nothing should happen to make them 
 disgusted with the voyage, and took measures to 
 have them kindly treated while at sea. When 
 we reached Hongkong, Mr. Pereira, of Messrs. 
 Dent and Company, was good enough to get his 
 compradore to give them quarters and feed them 
 until an opportunity arrived of sending them on 
 to India. 
 
 In a few days the two sets of men — those from 
 Fokien as well as those from Kiangse — -were 
 shipped in the steamer “ Chusan ” for Calcutta, 
 and, after having numerous adventures, which 
 they related to me afterwards with great glee, 
 they all arrived in safety and good health at their 
 destination in the Himalayas. 
 
 It was now necessary for me to return once 
 more to the north, in order to settle my accounts 
 
398 
 
 COAST INFESTED BY PIRATES. 
 
 Chap. XX. 
 
 witli the Chinese in various parts of the tea dis- 
 tricts, and to inform them that I would not require 
 their assistance any longer in making collections 
 of seeds and plants. On our way up the coast, 
 when a few miles south of the Chusan islands, we 
 fell in with Her Majesty’s brig “ Bittern,” Captain 
 Yansittart, at this time busily employed in putting 
 down the hordes of pirates that infested the whole 
 line of coast from Hongkong to the Gulf of Pee- 
 che-lee. A stoppage had almost been put to the 
 native coasting trade by these marauders, and 
 foreign vessels had also been attacked on various 
 occasions. A few weeks before the Rev. Mr. Rus- 
 sell, of the Church Missionary Society at Ningpo, 
 and some other friends, were plundered on their 
 way from that place to the island of Poo-to. 
 While at anchor at a place called Sing-kei-mun, 
 on the south-east end of Chusan, waiting for the 
 tide, their boat was attacked by a number of 
 armed men, and stripped of everything of the 
 slightest value ; some of their clothes even were 
 taken away from them. It was useless to resist a 
 force of this kind, and no resistance was offered. 
 
 These Chinese pirates when unresisted are not 
 generally cruel or bloodthirsty. In some in- 
 stances they are extremely polite, and even kind, 
 and quite rival our highwaymen of Hampstead 
 Heath and Hounslow in bygone times. In the 
 present instance they expressed great delight with 
 Mr. Russell’s watch, which, they said, would be 
 highly appreciated by their commodore. In the 
 
Chap. XX. THEIR RENDEZVOUS DISCOVERED. 399 
 
 course of the evening one of them brought it 
 hack, not for the purpose of returning it to the 
 owner, but to take lessons from him in winding it 
 up ! Having kept the missionaries close prisoners 
 all night, they put them into a small boat next 
 morning and sent them away ; but before this a 
 box of tea was sent to them as a present from the 
 leader of the band ! For all this kindness and 
 politeness a heavy recompense was awaiting them. 
 
 It soon became known that the rendezvous of 
 the pirate fleet was at a place called Shie-poo, 
 a few miles south from Chusan ; and in this place 
 the “ Bittern ” found them a few days after the 
 robbery of the missionaries. The brig was accom- 
 panied by the steamer “ Paou-shan,” a vessel 
 bought by some Chinese merchants for the pro- 
 tection of their junks a short time before. The 
 pirates, who had watches on every headland, and 
 runners all along the coast, were fully aware of 
 the intentions of our men-of-war. But they had 
 upwards of twenty vessels, all heavily manned 
 and armed, and, as the entrance to the hay in 
 which they were at anchor was extremely narrow, 
 it appeared to them impossible for a vessel like 
 the “ Bittern ” to attack them with the slightest 
 chance of success. Their own authorities on shore 
 were treated with supreme contempt, and the 
 people in the towns and villages adjoining were 
 told of the fate which awaited the foreign ship of 
 war, should her commander be foolhardy enough 
 to make an attack upon them. And certainly, 
 
400 PIRATES DESTROYED BY THE “ BITTERN.” Chap. XX, 
 
 looking at the number and size of their junks, 
 their heavy armament, and the position they 
 occupied, there seemed little chance for a ten-gun 
 brig. The first broadside from the junks, properly 
 directed, would have disabled or sunk her and 
 rendered all future efforts of her crew of no avail. 
 But Captain Yansittart and his brave officers and 
 crew were not alarmed by the apparent strength 
 of the enemy. With consummate skill the “ Bit- 
 tern” was towed by the steamer into position, 
 and so near the junks that the shower of shot 
 with which she was received mostly passed over 
 her hull and through her rigging. The steamer 
 after performing this service was directed to fall 
 back out of range, in order to be ready for any 
 emergency which might happen. 
 
 It was now the “ Bittern’s ” turn, and her first 
 broadside must have astonished the pirates. Every 
 shot told upon the unfortunate fleet with fearful 
 precision ; junk after junk was disabled or sunk ; 
 the men panic-stricken rushed into the water or to 
 their boats and fled to the shore, and hundreds 
 were killed on board or drowned in an attempt to 
 escape. In a very short space of time there was 
 scarcely a junk in all the fleet — apparently so 
 powerful and confident a few hours before — but 
 what was sunk or disabled. 
 
 Every hill and headland on the shore, from 
 which a view of the action could be had, was 
 crowded with people, who must have been sur- 
 prised with the extraordinary results which they 
 
Chap. XX. 
 
 A MANDARIN IN DIFFICULTY. 
 
 401 
 
 witnessed. Some of these persons were no doubt 
 pirates themselves or friends of those who were on 
 board of the fleet, which had just been dispersed, 
 but the greater part were respectable inhabitants 
 who were thankful their coasts had thus been rid 
 of a most intolerable nuisance. 
 
 About two or three hundred of the pirates who 
 had escaped to the shore kept together for their 
 safety and protection. Had they not done so the 
 authorities and people would soon have fallen 
 upon them and destroyed them. These infatuated 
 men fled to an enclosed piece of ground on the 
 side of a hill, and dragging up some guns with 
 them endeavoured to place them in position for 
 their defence. 
 
 When the mandarin on shore saw the turn 
 things had taken he pretended to be greatly 
 alarmed, and informed Captain Yansittart that in 
 so far as he, the mandarin, was concerned matters 
 were now worse than before. “For,” said he, 
 “ the pirates were then at sea, and would have 
 left us in a short time, but now you have driven 
 them on shore where they will commit all kinds of 
 atrocities, and I am unable to control them.” But 
 it was not the intention of the English commander 
 to leave things in this state. As soon, therefore, 
 as the piratical fleet had been taken, orders were 
 given to land a sufficient number of men to attack 
 the stronghold on shore. 
 
 The Chinese do not understand the art of war 
 — either at sea or on shore. They like what they 
 
402 
 
 ENGLISH “ DON’T FIGHT FAIR.’ 
 
 Chap. XX. 
 
 call fair fighting, that is, for the attacking party ' 
 to come manfully up in front and receive a broad- 
 side from guns which are all ready loaded to 
 receive them. Before Chusan was taken the 
 second time, during the last year, the Chinese had 
 a strong battery thrown up, which commanded the 
 whole of the harbour. They naturally thought 
 that our ships would come quietly into this place, 
 one by one, and be sunk without much resistance. 
 But the commanders of the expedition did not 
 view things in this light, and, although brave 
 enough, did not see the necessity of exposing the 
 lives of their men unnecessarily. Orders were, 
 therefore, given to land the troops in a hay to the 
 westward and march them over a hill there, which 
 thus brought them in the rear of the enemy in- 
 stead of in his front. The immense battery of the 
 Chinese was thus rendered useless, and the troops 
 behind it were thrown into confusion at once, 
 and fled from the field. In aftertimes, when we 
 were at peace with China, the natives used often 
 to tell me about this manoeuvre ; and although 
 they laughed heartily at it, yet they shook their 
 heads, and said it was not fair to fight in that 
 way. 
 
 The Sliiepoo pirates, as ignorant of the art of 
 war as the Chusan mandarins, appear to have ex- 
 pected that the crew of the “ Bittern ” would be 
 foolish enough to attack them in front, and placed 
 all their guns accordingly. As soon as this ar- 
 rangement was observed orders were given to 
 
Chap. XX. LOSS ON BOARD THE “ BITTERN.' 
 
 403 
 
 avoid attacking in front. The men therefore 
 scrambled up the hill-side, and thus were enabled 
 to gain a position where the guns of the pirates 
 could not be brought to bear upon them. This 
 manoeuvre was perfectly successful, the pirates fled 
 from their stronghold in confusion, many of them 
 were shot by our seamen and marines, while those 
 who escaped from them were captured by the na- 
 tives and the mandarins. And thus ended one of 
 the boldest and best-managed expeditions against 
 pirates on the Chinese coast. In an attack of 
 this kind it could scarcely be expected that the 
 “ Bittern ” could come out without some disaster. 
 The master, an excellent officer, was killed while 
 on the bridge of the steamer engaged in towing the 
 brig into position, and three of the crew who were 
 working a gun were severely wounded by a shot 
 which had been better aimed than the rest, and 
 struck the bulwarks. 
 
 In coming np the coast in one of the Peninsular 
 and Oriental Company’s steamers we met the 
 “ Bittern ” with the steamer “ Paou-shun ” and a 
 captured junk coming out of the Slu'epoo Bay. 
 The brig hoisted signals, and inquired whether we 
 would take the wounded men on board and convey 
 them to Shanghae, to which we were bound direct. 
 Captain Jamieson, the master of the steamer, 
 readily agreed to do what he was requested by 
 Captain Y ansittart ; the poor fellows were brought 
 on hoard in charge of Dr. Gordon, the surgeon of 
 
 2 E 
 
404 
 
 LIBERALITY OF THE MERCHANTS. Chav. XX. 
 
 the brig, and we conveyed them tenderly and 
 safely to our destination. 
 
 But little more of this story remains to be told. 
 The Ningpo missionaries got back their boat and a 
 portion of the property which had been stolen 
 from them by the pirates. The guild of Chinese 
 merchants at that place — to their honour be it 
 recorded — subscribed a handsome sum for the 
 support of the relatives of the master of the 
 “ Bittern ” who fell in action, as well as for those 
 who had been wounded. 
 
 Nor were the English merchants behind their 
 Chinese brethren in showing how highly they ap- 
 preciated the conduct of Captain Yansittart on this 
 occasion. A handsome subscription was raised to 
 be presented to him in the manner most agreeable 
 to his feelings. The generous-hearted sailor, al- 
 though he appreciated highly the kindness thus 
 shown to him, wanted nothing for himself, but 
 suggested that the sum might be expended in the 
 erection of an ornamental stained-glass window in 
 the church of his native village. 
 
Chap. XXI. 
 
 CURIOUS SUPERSTITION. 
 
 405 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Return to the interior — Curious superstition — Adventures with a 
 priest — Journey in search of new trees — Mountain scenery — New 
 Rhododendron — Yalley of the nine stones — Fine trees — Yew and 
 golden pine — Curiosity of the natives — A dark and stormy night 
 — We lose ourselves amongst the mountains — Seek shelter in a 
 hut — Alarm of the inmates — Morning after the storm — Return to 
 Ningpo — A fine new plant discovered — Adieu to the north of 
 China — Engage scented-tea makers, &c., at Canton — Sail for 
 India — Complimentary letter from Lord Dalhousie — Ordered to 
 visit the tea-plantations in the Himalayas and Punjab — Return to 
 England. 
 
 On reaching Ningpo I lost no time in proceeding 
 onward to the interior of the country, in order, as 
 I have already said, to wind up matters with the 
 natives in various parts who had been assisting 
 me in procuring supplies of plants, seeds, and 
 other objects of natural history . 
 
 In going up one of the rivers at this time I 
 observed the effect of a curious superstition which 
 both amused and surprised me at the time. Every 
 one knows that nearly all the junks and boats of 
 China have eyes carved or painted in the bows. 
 I had observed them on all parts of the coast, and 
 had often heard the reason said to be given by the 
 Cantonese, namely, “ Suppose no got eye, how can 
 see ? ” but I did not imagine that any one was so 
 
 2 e 2 
 
406 
 
 CURIOUS SUPERSTITION. 
 
 Chap. XXI. 
 
 superstitious or ignorant as to fancy that these 
 junks or boats really could see with the eyes which 
 had been given to them. It seemed, however, 
 that I was mistaken. As I was sailing slowly 
 onwards one of my boatmen seized his broad hat, 
 and, rushing past me to the bows of the boat, 
 placed it over one of the eyes. Several other 
 boats in company were also blinded in the same 
 way ; some with hats, others with coats, cloaks, 
 or anything that came readiest to hand. I did 
 not understand this proceeding at first, but soon 
 found out the cause. A dead body was floating 
 up the stream with the tide, and if the boat is 
 allowed to see an object of this kind some evil is 
 sure to happen to the passengers or crew before 
 the voyage is over. Such is one of the super- 
 stitions of the Chinese, and hence the reason for 
 covering up the eyes of the boats in order that 
 they might not see. 
 
 About the end of October I found myself once 
 more in front of the old temple of Tsan-tsing, 
 which I have already noticed in these pages, and 
 met there the same priests and the same travelling 
 tailor. The priests here seemed to me the most 
 ignorant, lazy, and imbecile I had ever met with 
 in any part of China. They spend their days in 
 perfect idleness, sitting for hours at a time basking 
 in the sunshine, or under the verandah of their 
 dwellings when the sun’s rays are too powerful to 
 be thus exposed. They seemed to be in a kind 
 of dreamy, mesmeric state ; their eyes indeed are 
 
Chap. XXI. ADVENTURES WITH A PRIEST. 
 
 407 
 
 open, but apparently they see nothing that is 
 going on around them. 
 
 On my arrival the tailor was working in the 
 room which I had formerly occupied. The high- 
 priest was sitting on a bed adjoining looking at 
 him, but it seemed doubtful from his appearance 
 if he saw either the tailor or his needle. For 
 hours he remained in the same position, and then 
 fell sound asleep until dinner-time. Several other 
 priests were reclining on chairs, or wandering list- 
 lessly about the verandahs or courts of the temple. 
 The only beings who seemed to have life in their 
 veins were the tailor, the cook, two boys, and 
 several ugly-looking dogs. 
 
 And thus the priests in this temple go on from 
 day to day — from childhood to youth and from 
 youth to old age — until the “ last scene of all ” 
 takes place, when they sink into the grave, having 
 as they believe accomplished the object for which 
 they were sent into the world. 
 
 Buddhism must surely have greatly degenerated 
 since the days when it was first promulgated. It 
 could not be by the exertions of men such as these 
 that this form of religion was extended over half 
 the world and obtained such a footing in a country 
 like China, where even the Christian faith with its 
 many able and zealous preachers can find so few 
 converts. 
 
 The room which I occupied was furnished with 
 two bedsteads, a small table, and three or four 
 chairs. Behind it was another room, which could 
 
408 
 
 ADVENTURES WITH A PRIEST. Chap. XXI. 
 
 only be entered through the one I occupied, and 
 which was the bed-room of the high-priest. I had 
 just finished dinner about eight in the evening, 
 when this gentleman presented himself, and po- 
 litely informed me he wanted to go to bed. To 
 this arrangement, as a matter of course, I had no 
 objection, being very tired, and therefore anxious to 
 get rid of him for the night. I therefore rose from 
 my seat in order to allow him to pass on to his own 
 room. When he got to his door he found it locked, 
 and commenced looking in every conceivable place 
 for the key. He held in his hand two strips of bam- 
 boo, which he used instead of a candle, and which 
 gave out a large body of flame accompanied with 
 smoke, and soon filled the room, and rendered the 
 atmosphere very disagreeable. To make matters 
 worse, every now and then he snuffed the ends of 
 the bamboo with his fingers and threw the red-hot 
 charcoal on the floor. After he had looked in 
 every drawer and in every odd corner of the room 
 three or four times over, muttering to himself 
 while he did so something about the loss of his 
 ya-za (key), he left me for the purpose of looking 
 for it outside in some other part of the building. 
 
 In about half-an-hour he returned and told me a 
 second time he wanted to go to bed. “ Have you 
 found your key, then ? ” I asked him. No, he had 
 not found his ya-za ; and then he commenced the 
 search in the same places and in the same listless 
 and stupid manner as before. I began to think 
 he would fall into a state of somnambulism and go 
 
Chap. XXL ADVENTURES WITH A PRIEST. 
 
 409 
 
 on with his search all night long. Again my 
 room was filled with smoke, again the floor was 
 strewed with burning charcoal, and as I was think- 
 ing of retiring to rest, this state of things was far 
 from being either pleasant or agreeable. I there- 
 fore ventured to remonstrate with him and to call 
 his attention to the fact that as he had searched 
 all these places several times already, it was a loss 
 of time to search there again. His only reply to 
 my remonstrance was uttered in a doleful, dreamy 
 tone — “ My ya-za ! my ya-za ! I have lost my 
 ya-za ! ” 
 
 At last he seemed to awake all at once from his 
 dream, and turning round to me with a good-hu- 
 moured smile upon his coimtenance, he said, “ Well, 
 I cannot find my key ; but, never mind, there are 
 two beds in this room, and as you can only occupy 
 one of them, I shall take the other.” This propo- 
 sition, although perfectly fair, and one that I could 
 scarcely object to, was far more reasonable than 
 agreeable to my feelings. I therefore put in one 
 or two objections in as mild a form as possible. 
 “ There are no bedding or clothes in that bed, and 
 you will surely suffer greatly from the cold.” This 
 had no effect ; he assured me he had plenty of 
 clothes upon him, and that he would sleep very 
 comfortably on the bare bed. “ Well but,” said I, 
 laughing, “ are you not afraid to sleep in the same 
 room with a pah kwie-tze (white devil) ? ” It may 
 be remembered that this was the man who ap- 
 peared to dread me so much on our first acquaint- 
 
410 
 
 ADVENTURES WITH A PRIEST. Chap. XXI. 
 
 ance. All his old fears seemed instantly to return, 
 the smile left his countenance, and he gave me a 
 look which told plainly enough that I had struck 
 the right chord in order to gain my object, and that 
 he would he as averse to sleeping in my company 
 as I was to his. “ Ah ! ” said he, “ my ya-za ! I 
 have lost my ya-za ! ” and commenced the search 
 as before. 
 
 It was now getting very late, and as I had a 
 long journey in view for the following day, my 
 patience was completely exhausted. I therefore 
 rose from my chair, and, putting my hand on his 
 shoulder, said, “ Come with me and I shall find you 
 a bed for the night.” Leading him out of my 
 room, we proceeded across the hall to one occupied 
 by another priest, at whose door we now knocked, 
 and who readily admitted us. “ Here is your supe- 
 rior,” said I ; “ he has lost the key of his bedroom ; 
 pray give him a bed in yours, and make him as 
 comfortable as you can until the morning.” Leaving 
 the two Buddhists to explain matters in their way, 
 I returned to my own room, bolted the door, and 
 went to bed. Nothing occurred during the suc- 
 ceeding part of the night to disturb my slumbers. 
 
 It was now the end of October, and the weather 
 was cool and pleasant. When I awoke at day- 
 break on the following morning I found the atmos- 
 phere clear, and the sky without a cloud ; every- 
 thing gave promise of one of those glorious days 
 which are common in the north of China at this 
 season, particularly amongst the mountains. My 
 
Chap. XXI. 
 
 SEARCH FOR NEW TREES. 
 
 411 
 
 servants and myself were early astir, having a 
 long journey in prospect for the day. The object 
 I had in view was to obtain various kinds of seeds, 
 more particularly those of the “ golden pine-tree ” 
 (Abies Kcempferi ), which I have already noticed in 
 these pages, and which I had searched for in the 
 previous season without success. 
 
 Taking an early breakfast, we ascended the 
 pass behind the temple, and soon reached the vale 
 of Poo-in-chee and the little village of that name. 
 Here I observed for the first time two very fine 
 yew-trees, which apparently were quite new. They 
 evidently belonged to the genus Cephalotaxus — a 
 genus perfectly hardy in England, and very highly 
 prized. They were too young to have seeds upon 
 them, and too large to dig up and carry away. 
 While my servant and myself were looking at 
 them, the person to whom the garden belonged 
 came out and very kindly gave us their name and 
 history. He told us he had received the seeds 
 from a place about ten or fifteen miles distant 
 amongst the mountains, where the trees grew to a 
 great size and produced seeds annually in consider- 
 able abundance. It is called Fee-shoo by the 
 natives, and its seeds are to be found in a dry state 
 in all the doctors’ shops in Chinese towns. They 
 are considered valuable in cases of cough, asthma, 
 and diseases of the lungs or chest. I am not aware 
 that their seeds are known to English doctors in 
 China, or if they are considered by them of any 
 value. 
 
412 
 
 NEW RHODODENDRON. 
 
 Chap. XXI. 
 
 Being very anxious to procure vegetating seeds 
 of this fine tree, I offered a considerable sum to 
 one of tbe villagers of Poo-in-chee providing he 
 would go with us and act as our guide through 
 the mountains. The person who had been giving 
 us the information above intimated his readiness 
 to accompany us, but suggested that instead of 
 starting then it would be better to put off the 
 journey until the following day, when we could 
 start by daylight. But the day was yet early and 
 fine, and I was determined to proceed at once. By 
 a little coaxing our guide was induced to swallow 
 a hasty meal and accompany us on our journey. 
 
 Our road led us over the highest ridges of the 
 mountains, which are here fully three thousand 
 feet above the level of the sea. The tops of these 
 mountains are so cold in winter that nothing but 
 an alpine vegetation can exist ; — -the strange tro- 
 pical-looking forms, such as the bamboo, the Ohusan 
 palm, and plants of that kind met with at a lower 
 elevation, give place to wiry grass, gentians, spi- 
 raeas, and other hardy plants of a like description. 
 Here and there on our journey we came upon fine 
 examples of the golden pine-tree ( Abies Kcempferi ) 
 growing a little way down on the mountain-slopes. 
 Cephalotasus Fortunei and Cryptomeria japonica 
 were also found at high elevations. 
 
 In a romantic glen through which we passed on 
 our journey I came upon a remarkably fine-looking 
 rhododendron. A species of the genus (R. Cham- 
 pionce ) had been discovered on the Hongkong hills, 
 
Chap. XXI. 
 
 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 
 
 413 
 
 but none had previously been met with to the 
 northward, although the azalea is one of the most 
 common plants on the mountains of Chekiang, I 
 therefore looked upon the present discovery as a 
 great acquisition, and as the plants were covered 
 with ripe seeds, I was able to obtain a good supply 
 to send home. All the Chinese in that part of the 
 country agreed in stating that the flowers of this 
 species are large and beautiful, but as all rhodo- 
 dendrons have this character, it is impossible to 
 predict what this one may turn out to be until we 
 have an opportunity of seeing its flowers. Mr. 
 Glendinning, of the Chiswick nursery, to whom I 
 sent the seeds, has been fortunate enough to raise 
 a good stock of young plants, which are now 
 growing vigorously, and which will soon deter- 
 mine the value of the species. 
 
 Our journey was long and toilsome ; sometimes 
 we were on the top of the highest ridges, and at 
 other times we seemed to go down and down until 
 we were nearly on a level with the sea. But the 
 views of scenery, which were ever shifting as we 
 went along, were grand in the extreme, and richly 
 rewarded us for all our toil. While on the tops of 
 the highest ridges we looked round upon barren 
 mountains, which lay about us like the waves of a 
 stormy sea, and here and there we got glimpses of 
 the distant and fertile plain of Ningpo stretching far 
 away to the eastward. At other times our way led 
 us through pleasant and secluded valleys, each of 
 which looked like a little world of its own, shut in 
 
414 
 
 VALLEY OF THE NINE STONES. Chap. XXI. 
 
 by rugged mountains, and having no connexion 
 with the great world outside. 
 
 Although the tops of the mountains here were 
 generally- barren and uncultivated, yet I observed 
 crops of Indian corn growing to a very consider- 
 able elevation, and it was now ripe. Down in the 
 valleys the land was very rich, and nearly all 
 under cultivation. The natives of these districts 
 prefer living in the valleys, which are sheltered by 
 the surrounding mountains from cold and cutting 
 winds. Many temporary huts were met with at 
 high elevations, but these were merely used in the 
 summer-time and while the crops of Indian corn 
 were ripe. No one appeared to think of living in 
 such places during the winter. 
 
 The natives with whom we came in contact 
 during our journey seemed a hardy, industrious 
 race, and hospitable and kind in their habits. We 
 were often asked to enter their cottages, when we 
 were presented with tea, roasted Indian corn, or 
 anything they might chance to have for them- 
 selves. 
 
 About four o’clock in the afternoon we reached 
 the “ Yalley of the Nine Stones,” to which we were 
 bound. Here we found a pretty little town situated 
 on the banks of a small stream which takes a wind- 
 ing course through the mountains to the eastward, 
 and eventually falls into one of the branches of the 
 Ningpo river. Our guide pointed with great satis- 
 faction to numerous fine trees of the new yew or 
 Cephalotaxus , which were growing on the sides of 
 
Chap. XXT. 
 
 CURIOSITY OP THE NATIVES. 
 
 415 
 
 the liill above the town. Many of them were from 
 sixty to eighty feet in height with fine round heads, 
 and altogether had a striking and ornamental ap- 
 pearance. There were no seeds to be seen on any 
 of them, but our guide informed us they had been 
 lately gathered, and were still in the town, where 
 we could purchase them. Some noble trees of the 
 “ golden pine ” were also met with here, and, to 
 my delight, were loaded with ripe cones. When 
 ripe, these cones have a rich yellow hue, which 
 probably suggested the name by which this fine 
 tree is known amongst the Chinese. I look upon 
 this tree as the most important of all my Chinese 
 introductions. It grows rapidly, produces excel- 
 lent timber, and will eventually become a striking 
 and beautiful object in our English landscape. 
 
 While engaged in making observations upon 
 these trees I was on the hill-side above the town, 
 and consequently fully exposed to the natives. 
 The news of a stranger and foreigner being in 
 this secluded place seemed to fly from house to 
 house with the rapidity of lightning ; in less time 
 than I can describe it every door, verandah, and 
 window was crowded with anxious faces gazing 
 intently up to where I was standing. Some few, 
 more impatient than their neighbours, came run- 
 ning up the hill in order to have a nearer view, 
 and several respectable -looking persons in the 
 crowd asked me to go to their houses and drink 
 tea. Every one treated me with marked civility 
 and even kindness. 
 
416 
 
 A DARK AND STORMY NIGHT. Chap. XXI. 
 
 But the day was now far spent, and my servants 
 and guide knowing better than I did the difficulties 
 of our homeward journey by night, begged me to 
 look after the seeds without delay. They also 
 pointed out a man who owned a number of trees, 
 and who had a large quantity of the seeds for sale. 
 We therefore followed this man to his house, and 
 found he had just commenced to clean and dry 
 these seeds for the Ningpo market. It was diffi- 
 cult to strike a bargain as to price, but this was 
 done satisfactorily at last, and the owner engaged 
 to deliver them at Ning-kong-jou in three days. 
 Large quantities of the seeds of the “ golden pine ” 
 were also contracted for in the same way ; these 
 are now growing in Mr. Grlendinning’s nursery at 
 Chiswick. Upon the whole I was highly satisfied 
 with the results of our visit to the “ Yalley of the 
 Nine Stones.” 
 
 After drinking a cup of tea with the hill farmer 
 • — for such he was — we made our adieus to the 
 crowds of villagers and turned our faces home- 
 wards. But it was now nearly five o’clock in the 
 afternoon, and being the end of October it was 
 almost dark. The day too, which had been 
 hitherto so fine, was now overcast ; a thick mist 
 came rolling down the sides of the hills, and it 
 began to rain. Onward we trod for many a 
 weary mile, sometimes missing our way, and 
 having to retrace our steps, while at other times 
 we proceeded with painful uncertainty as to our 
 being in the right road. At last our guide came 
 
Chap. XXI. 
 
 SEEK SHELTEK IN A HUT. 
 
 417 
 
 to a dead stand, and confessed he did not know 
 where he was ; nor was this to be wondered at in 
 the thick mist and darkness which surrounded us. 
 What to do next was now a most serious and 
 anxious question, and one most difficult to answer. 
 Our guide recommended us to remain where we 
 were, and suggested that the thick mist might 
 possibly clear away and enable him to make out 
 some familiar landmark. We were far above the 
 level of any of the villages which are scattered 
 over these hills, and had no hope of obtaining 
 shelter unless we could stumble upon one of those 
 temporary summer huts erected by the farmers, 
 who cultivate Indian corn on the higher lands. 
 Drenched to the skin, and cold, we now endea- 
 voured to obtain shelter from the wind and rain 
 on the lee side of a large projecting granite rock, 
 and remained in this comfortless position for more 
 than an hour. 
 
 As the mist chanced to lift a little, our guide, 
 who was anxiously looking out, fancied he dis- 
 cerned a light at no great distance. This soon 
 became more clearly visible, and we gladly moved 
 on towards it. It turned out to be shining from a 
 miserable hut, such as I have already noticed, and 
 was occupied temporarily by an old woman and a 
 boy, for the purpose of getting in their crop of 
 Indian corn. But “ any port in a storm and I 
 looked on this miserable hovel with more thank- 
 fulness than I had done on many a snug and com- 
 fortable inn at home. 
 
418 
 
 ALARM OF THE INMATES. 
 
 Chap. XXI. 
 
 In order to alarm the inmates as little as pos- 
 sible, our guide went first, and the rest followed 
 close behind him, in order to get in before the 
 door was shut and barred in our faces, a proceed- 
 ing which we thought not improbable if those 
 inside became alarmed. The guide knocked at 
 the door, told his name, and said he was a native 
 of Poo-in-chee, who had lost his way amongst the 
 mountains, and sought shelter from the wind and 
 rain. When the door was opened we took care 
 that it should remain so until the fears of the 
 inmates were quieted. The moment the old 
 woman saw a foreigner she manifested the great- 
 est signs of alarm, and retreated to the farthest 
 corner of the building, at the same time pulling 
 her little boy along with her. In vain I seconded 
 my guide and servants in their efforts to convince 
 her that she had nothing to fear ; I was a “ white 
 devil,” and that seemed to be the only idea she 
 would allow to take possession of her mind. 
 
 In other circumstances I would have gone away 
 and left the old lady to recover her composure ; 
 but this was at present almost impossible.. After, 
 therefore, assuring her for the last time that she 
 had nothing to fear, we drew near to the fire and 
 gladly warmed ourselves. In a little while the 
 boy began to be more friendly, and eventually the 
 old woman herself came out of the corner and 
 threw some fresh wood on the fire. The “ ice was 
 now broken,” and our friendship was further 
 cemented by the present of a few cash, which 
 
Chap. XXI. 
 
 MORNING AFTER THE STORM. 
 
 419 
 
 were thankfully received, and which tended to 
 raise us not a little in the estimation of our hostess 
 and her child. 
 
 The air of the mountains, cold and damp as it 
 was, had given us an appetite, and we were all 
 ravenously hungry. We therefore suggested to 
 the old woman the propriety of selling us some 
 heads of her Indian corn. These we roasted at 
 the fire, and enjoyed our simple fare with greater 
 zest than we had ever done a most sumptuous 
 dinner. When our dinner was over, we collected 
 a quantity of dry straw, which the hut afforded, 
 and spread it thickly down before the fire. Tired 
 and weary as we were, it was not necessary that 
 we should seek repose on a bed of down. Dry 
 straw was a luxury in our present circumstances, 
 so we lay down and soon forgot all our cares in 
 the land of sleep and dreams. 
 
 When we awoke on the following morning, 
 broad daylight was streaming in upon us through 
 the sides and roof of our temporary dwelling. 
 The storm of the preceding night had passed 
 away, the sky above head was clear, and every- 
 thing gave promise of a beautiful day. The view 
 from the door of our hut was grand in the ex- 
 treme. We were high up on the side of a moun- 
 tain ; on the opposite side, to the westward, there 
 was another mountain of equal height, while 
 between the two lay a deep and richly cultivated 
 valley, with a small stream gliding smoothly 
 onward down its centre. A misty cloud hung 
 
 2 F 
 
420 
 
 FINE NEW PLANT DISCOVERED, 
 
 Chap. XXL 
 
 here and there lazily on the sides of the hills, 
 which only had the effect of making the sky look 
 more clear and the scene around and below us 
 more grand and lovely. 
 
 We now gave our hostess and her boy a small 
 present for the inconvenience we had put them to, 
 and amidst their best wishes we resumed our 
 journey, which we had been obliged to abandon 
 the evening before. Without having any further 
 adventures of interest, we arrived in safety at the 
 old temple of Tsan-tsing. 
 
 On the day following I went down to the plains 
 and onward to Ningpo. In the garden of an old 
 Chinese gentleman here, I met with a beautiful 
 new herbaceous plant, having rich blotched or 
 variegated leaves, which has since been named by 
 Dr. Lindley, Farfugium grande. It was growing 
 in a neat flower-pot, and was evidently much 
 prized by its possessor, and well it might, for it 
 was the most striking-looking plant in his garden. 
 He informed me he had received it from Peking 
 the year before, and that at present it was very 
 rare in Ningpo, but he thought I might be able to 
 procure a plant or two from a nurseryman in the 
 town to whom he had given a few roots. I lost 
 no time in paying a visit to the nursery indicated, 
 and secured the prize. It has reached England in 
 safety, and will shortly be a great ornament to 
 our houses and gardens. 
 
 I had now brought my work in China to a suc- 
 cessful termination. Many thousands of tea-plants, 
 
Chap. XXI. 
 
 ADIEU TO NORTH OF CHINA. 
 
 421 
 
 obtained in the finest districts, had reached their 
 destination in the Himalayas, and had been re- 
 ported in good condition by Dr. Jameson, the 
 superintendent of the Government plantations ; 
 abundant supplies of implements used in these dis- 
 tricts had also been sent round, and two sets of 
 first-rate black-tea manufacturers from Fokien and 
 Kiangse had been engaged, and were now on 
 their way to the north-west provinces of India. 
 In accordance with instructions received from the 
 government of India, I had also introduced many 
 of the useful and ornamental productions of China, 
 such for example as timber and fruit-trees, oil- 
 yielding plants, dyes, &c. These things were 
 sent partly to the Government gardens and 
 partly to the Agricultural and Horticultural 
 Society. 
 
 I now bade adieu to many kind friends in the 
 north of China and sailed for Hongkong and 
 Canton. With the assistance of Messrs. Turner 
 and Co., I succeeded in engaging some scented-tea 
 men and lead-box makers, and took them on with 
 me in the steamer “ Lancefield,” to Calcutta, 
 where we arrived on the 10th of February, 1856. 
 Here I had the pleasure of receiving a despatch 
 from Mr. Beadon, Secretary to the Government of 
 India, containing the following paragraph : — “ I 
 am directed to acknowledge the receipt of your 
 letter No. 25, dated the 11th instant, and to state 
 that the Most Noble the Governor-General in 
 Council entirely approves of your proceedings, 
 
 2 f 2 
 
422 
 
 RETURN TO ENGLAND. 
 
 Chap. XXI. 
 
 and considers the results of your mission to China 
 to be very satisfactory.” I need scarcely say that 
 a compliment of this kind from Lord Dalhousie 
 was most grateful to my feelings ; for next to the 
 pleasure which one feels who has accomplished a 
 difficult object is that of knowing that his exertions 
 are appreciated. 
 
 Having thus terminated the Chinese part of my 
 labours, I was requested by the Government of 
 India to proceed once more to the North-west Pro- 
 vinces and the Punjab, for the purpose of inspect- 
 ing the various tea-plantations there, and to make 
 a report upon their present condition and future 
 prospects. This report, which was sent in to the 
 Government in October 1856, shows the tea- 
 plantations in the Himalayas and Punjab to be in 
 a very satisfactory condition, and likely at no dis- 
 tant day to prove of great value to the natives of 
 India. 
 
 On the 9th of November I left India in the 
 Peninsular and Oriental Company’s ship “ Ben- 
 tinck,” Captain Caldbeck, and reached Southamp- 
 ton on the 20th of December, having been absent 
 from England exactly four years. 
 
Chap. XXII. DISPUTE WITH THE CHINESE. 
 
 423 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Dispute with the Chinese about the lorcha “Arrow” — Lorchas and 
 their crews — Abuse of the English flag — Eight of entrance into 
 the city of Canton — The Chinese outwit us in diplomacy — True 
 causes of our position in Canton — We have ourselves to blame — 
 The policy which ought to he pursued — The city of Canton must 
 he opened — Foolish restrictions on foreigners and their trade ought 
 to he abolished — Direct communication with the court of Peking 
 — Method of carrying out these views — Bemarks on the climate 
 with reference to the health of our troops — Conclusion. 
 
 The narrative of my travels in China ends with 
 the last chapter, and in ordinary circumstances 
 that chapter would have been the last in this 
 work ; hut since I left Hongkong a disturbance 
 has broken out at Canton of a most serious kind, 
 which day by day assumes a more important 
 aspect, the end of which is most difficult for those 
 even who are best acquainted with China and the 
 Chinese to foresee. 
 
 It is not my intention in this place to attempt a 
 history of the original cause of the dispute in so 
 far as the unfortunate lorcha “ Arrow ” is con- 
 cerned, or to express my opinions on a subject 
 upon which the highest legal authorities in Eng- 
 land cannot agree. It is sufficient for me to refer 
 the reader to the despatches of the English and 
 Chinese authorities in China, and to the speeches 
 
424 
 
 LORCHAS AND THEIR CREWS. Chap. XXII. 
 
 wliicli liave been delivered in Parliament for in- 
 formation upon this subject. But whether we 
 may be right or wrong in a legal point of view 
 I doubt much whether it be good policy to allow 
 such vessels as this “Arrow” to fly the English 
 flag. Every one who has travelled much on the 
 coast of China knows well what the majority of 
 these “ lorchas ” are. And here, perhaps, I had 
 better endeavour to give some information on this 
 point to those who have not had an opportunity 
 of seeing and judging for themselves. 
 
 Lorchas are not English vessels, as some people 
 appear to imagine, and are rarely owned or sailed 
 by Englishmen. They are Portuguese vessels, and 
 were originally built at Macao, although of late 
 years a few have been built at Ningpo and some 
 of the other ports on the east coast. They fly the 
 Portuguese flag, have Portuguese papers, and are 
 numbered and registered by the government of 
 Macao. They are manned, almost without excep- 
 tion, by Chinese — natives of Macao, Canton, and 
 adjacent ports in the south of China. Nominally 
 they are commanded by Macao-Portuguese, but the 
 Chinamen always seemed to me to have the chief 
 control of the vessels. The few owned by Eng- 
 lishmen, which fly the English flag and have 
 English papers, are sailed just in the same way, 
 the only difference being that the latter may boast 
 of an English “ captain.” 
 
 A few of these lorchas are common traders 
 on the coast, particularly in the south, about 
 
Chap. XXII. ABUSE OF THE ENGLISH FLAG. 
 
 425 
 
 Macao, Canton, Hongkong, and Amoy, but by 
 far the greater number have been engaged of 
 late years in convoying Chinese junks from port 
 to port and protecting them from pirates. When 
 I was last in China a fleet of them was chartered 
 by the mandarins and sent up the Yang-tse-kiang 
 to attack the rebels at that place and Nankin, but 
 in this instance they did not seem very successful. 
 They have often been accused of committing acts 
 of piracy on the coast, and stringent measures 
 have been taken by the Macao government at 
 various times to keep them in order. Generally 
 they are very heavily armed, and have a most 
 formidable-looking appearance . 
 
 These vessels, whether in convoying or in 
 simple trading, do not confine themselves to the 
 five ports at which foreigners are permitted by 
 treaty to trade, and are well known both to the 
 Chinese government and to foreigners as in- 
 veterate smugglers. Oftentimes the peaceful 
 inhabitants in the little towns on the coast have 
 complained bitterly to me of the lawless and 
 tyrannical acts of their crews. 
 
 Such, then, is the class of vessels to which the 
 “ Arrow ” belongs. Is it right that they should 
 be allowed to sail under the English flag without 
 our government having means to control the law- 
 less acts of their crews ? These vessels, as I have 
 already shown, visit and trade at hundreds of 
 places on the coast where bona fide English ships 
 are not allowed. Are these crews to be allowed 
 
426 
 
 RIGHT OF ENTRANCE INTO 
 
 Chap. XXII. 
 
 to commit all sorts of offences against tlieir own 
 government and people and then point to the flag 
 of England — that flag which as Englishmen we 
 proudly look up to as the emblem of liberty and 
 justice — as their protection and as their warrant ? 
 This may he in accordance with treaty rights — it 
 may he the law of the case — but it scarcely ac- 
 cords with what reason suggests or common sense. 
 It therefore appears to me to he had policy on the 
 part of the local government of Hongkong to 
 grant permission to fly the English flag to lorchas 
 or native boats manned by Chinese over whose 
 actions, when away from that port, it has no 
 control. 
 
 But as we watch the dispute in question the 
 scene suddenly changes, another act commences, 
 and the lorcha falls into the back-ground. It is 
 no longer satisfaction for the insult offered by the 
 government of China, or rather Commissioner 
 Yeh, to the English flag only which is demanded. 
 It is now discovered that this is a good opportu- 
 nity for insisting upon our treaty-right of entering 
 the city of Canton. There can he no doubt that 
 we are fully entitled to this privilege, and have 
 been so since the Treaty of Nankin was signed, 
 at the close of the last China war, hut it is 
 extremely doubtful that his Excellency Yeh had 
 the power to grant a right, without a reference 
 to the Court of Pekin, which had been allowed to 
 stand so long in abeyance. 
 
 It has often been remarked that in everything 
 
Chap. XXII. 
 
 THE CITY OF CANTON. 
 
 427 
 
 the Chinese are exactly the reverse of European 
 nations, and here is a fresh proof that the remark 
 is, to a certain extent, a just one. As a nation 
 they cannot fight, hut they are first-rate diploma- 
 tists ; on the other hand, we can win our battles 
 and then allow ourselves to he outwitted by the 
 diplomacy of a nation whom we despise in the 
 field. 
 
 In 1842, after taking most of the important 
 maritime cities of China, from Hongkong as far 
 north as Nankin, we made peace with the govern- 
 ment upon condition that five ports, namely, Can- 
 ton, Amoy, Foo-chow, Ningpo, and Shangliae, 
 should be opened to foreigners of every nation for 
 the purposes of trade. Scarcely was this treaty 
 signed before the right of entrance to the city of 
 Canton was disputed by the Chinese, and then we 
 committed our first and greatest mistake in not 
 enforcing it. Some years afterwards the demand 
 was made again by Sir John Davis, who in order 
 to enforce it destroyed many of the forts in the 
 river with the fleet then at his disposal in the 
 Chinese waters. But the Chinese Commissioner 
 of that day did by clever diplomacy what he 
 found impossible by force of arms. He induced 
 Her Majesty’s Plenipotentiary to put the evil day 
 off for two years on account of the prejudices of 
 the people ; at the end of that period our country- 
 men would be received with open arms by the 
 loving Cantonese ! The Imperial Commissioner 
 knew well enough that at the end of two years 
 
428 
 
 THE POLICY WHICH OUGHT Chap. XXII. 
 
 the difficulty would just be the same as it was 
 then, but ere that time another officer would have 
 to deal with it, and he himself would get the 
 credit of duping the English out of the city of 
 Canton. 
 
 I must confess that the arrangement we made 
 at that time took me completely by surprise. 
 Having a pretty good knowledge of the Chinese 
 character I knew perfectly well that at the end of 
 two years we would he as far from the city of 
 Canton as ever we had been, and the events 
 which have taken place since that time have 
 proved the correctness of the opinion which I 
 then formed. 
 
 Not only have we allowed ourselves to be out- 
 witted by Chinese commissioners hut we have 
 suffered much in the eyes of the people of China 
 by first making these demands and then allowing 
 them to be evaded. It may be all very well to 
 say that we did so from compassion for a weak 
 power, or semi-civilized nation ; the Chinese, full 
 to the brim of self-conceit, put it down to fear. 
 With a nation like the Chinese our demands 
 should be well considered before they are made, 
 but once we have made them they ought to be 
 enforced. 
 
 Were the city of Canton open to-morrow few 
 persons would ever visit it except for the purpose 
 of calling upon the officers of government. The 
 finest -streets and shops are all outside the walls, 
 and the city itself, from all accounts, possesses but 
 
Chap. XXII. 
 
 TO BE PURSUED. 
 
 429 
 
 few attractions. But although this is the case the 
 vexed question has assumed an importance not its 
 own, and it is really absolutely necessary now that 
 we force a compliance with our demands if we 
 mean that the lives and property of our country- 
 men should be safe and commerce go on. 
 
 Had we enforced our treaty-rights at first all 
 this would have been avoided, much blood would 
 have been spared, and the Canton Chinese would 
 have treated us with more civility and respect. 
 When the port of Foo-chow-foo, the capital city of 
 Fokien, was opened to foreign trade, an effort was 
 made by the authorities there to prevent us from 
 having a footing in the city. Our consul, the late 
 Mr. Lay, alone and unaided, forced his way 
 through the gates and took up a temporary resi- 
 dence in a joss-house within the walls. The man- 
 darins, finding one man determined to secure our 
 treaty-rights, gave up the point, and never after- 
 wards objected to our having the consulate in the 
 city. Had a little of such spirit and determination 
 been shown at Canton, and supported by a suffi- 
 cient force, this vexatious question might have 
 been settled long ago. 
 
 In making treaties with a nation like the 
 Chinese we ought not to look upon them as we 
 do upon the more civilized nations of the west. 
 They cannot appreciate our motives of clemency 
 or consideration. During the last war we spared 
 Canton when it lay entirely at our mercy, and the 
 Cantonese to a man gave it as their opinion that 
 
430 
 
 THE POLICY WHICH OUGHT Chap. XXII. 
 
 we were afraid to attack it. Again, according to 
 them, it was fear which prevented us from insist- 
 ing upon our treaty-rights as regards free admis- 
 sion within their city walls. 
 
 It would apjDear, therefore, that we have our- 
 selves to blame for much of the barbarous treat- 
 ment we have received at the hands of the Canton 
 Chinese. 
 
 But putting on one side the case of the unfor- 
 tunate lorcha “ Arrow,” about which our “ doctors 
 differ,” there seems to be little doubt that our 
 relations with the Cantonese were upon a most 
 unsatisfactory footing, and that sooner or later 
 the “ good understanding ” existing between us 
 would have been disturbed. It was only a ques- 
 tion of time, and it has been decided somewhat 
 prematurely, perhaps, by this supposed insult to 
 the English flag and infraction of treaty-rights. 
 Our relations with the people and government of 
 Canton can never be considered on a satisfactory 
 footing until we have a full and complete under- 
 standing with each other. They must be taught 
 to look upon us as a nation as highly civilised and 
 as powerful as themselves. Until this is accom- 
 plished we may have a disturbance at any time ; 
 our commerce may be stopped, and what is of far 
 more importance, the lives of our countrymen 
 living in this remote region may he placed in 
 imminent danger. 
 
 Whether we were right or wrong, therefore, at 
 the commencement of this unfortunate dispute, it 
 
Chap. XXII. 
 
 TO BE PURSUED. 
 
 431 
 
 is now absolutely necessary for us to carry it 
 through until our relations are placed upon a 
 firm and satisfactory basis. It may seem fair 
 and plausible for persons ignorant of the Chinese 
 character to talk of justice and humanity — fine 
 sounding words no doubt — hut totally inapplicable 
 to the present state of things. Suppose we were 
 now to go down on our knees to Commissioner 
 Yeh, acknowledge our fault, crave forgiveness for 
 the past, and promise to behave better for the 
 future, what would be the result ? Is it to be 
 supposed for one moment that this worthy func- 
 tionary would view such conduct in a proper 
 light, or that the thousands of Chinese under 
 his rule would give us credit for the feelings 
 by which we were actuated ? Most assuredly 
 not. The “ barbarians,” or the “ foreign devils,” 
 would be again accused of fear, or, what is worse, 
 of cringing to the Cantonese in order that our 
 trade might be allowed to be carried on. By 
 such a proceeding we should place ourselves upon 
 the top of a mine which might be sprung at any 
 time. There would be no security for life or 
 property in Canton, and eventually a war would 
 be forced upon us more disastrous than what may 
 happen at the present time. 
 
 In order, therefore, to be humane in the strictest 
 sense of the term, to prevent future war and 
 bloodshed, to give the Cantonese a true estimate 
 of our character, to render the lives and property 
 of our countrymen secure, and to prevent those 
 
432 
 
 ABOLITION OF RESTRICTIONS. Chap. XXII. 
 
 vexations interruptions to our commerce, we must 
 carry out what we have begun with a firm and 
 determined hand. With a nation like the Chinese, 
 particularly about Canton, this is true humanity 
 and mercy. 
 
 But the question “ What do we want from the 
 Chinese ? ” naturally presents itself, and what 
 points in a new treaty ought to be insisted upon 
 in order to guard against and if possible prevent, 
 future disturbances between us and them. We 
 must have free entrance into the city of Canton, 
 however unimportant this may be ; and not for 
 our officials only, as they themselves have sug- 
 gested, but for our merchants, missionaries, or any 
 one who chooses to go, just as we have at the 
 other five ports which are now open to our trade. 
 Our officials must be received by Chinese officers 
 of equal rank on all occasions when any important 
 business is to be transacted. 
 
 If possible, and I do not see anything to prevent 
 it, all those prohibitory regulations as regards our 
 trading at certain ports only, and going only a 
 certain distance into the country, ought to be 
 swept away. These regulations appear to have 
 been framed upon the supposition of our being a 
 barbarous race, foreign devils, aad wild animals, 
 which it is necessary to cage up to secure the 
 safety of the civilized Chinese. The sooner such 
 regulations are abrogated the better it will be both 
 for the Chinese and ourselves. 
 
 And, lastly, means ought to be taken to have 
 
Chap. XXII. HOW TO CARRY OUT THESE VIEWS. 433 
 
 direct communication with the court of Peking, 
 either by means of an ambassador or occasional 
 resident. The Chinese cannot remain much longer 
 isolated from the rest of the world, nor does it 
 seem desirable that they should be so. With the 
 Russians stretching eastward on the banks of the 
 river Amoor, the Americans in California, our- 
 selves in India, and fleets of steamers traversing 
 the sea which washes the shores of this vast em- 
 pire, isolation for any length of time seems out of 
 the question. 
 
 To bring the Chinese within the pale of nations, 
 to extend our commerce, and to open up the 
 country to missionary labour and scientific re- 
 search, are objects worthy of the earnest considera- 
 tion of statesmen, not only in England but also 
 in France, America, and in other civilized Eu- 
 ropean countries who are interested in the welfare 
 of mankind. 
 
 Supposing that the present time is suitable for 
 the consideration of this important subject, the 
 question as to how it ought to be commenced and 
 carried out naturally presents itself. That the 
 Government of China will offer many objections 
 to the plan may easily be predicted ; but the same 
 force which it will be necessary to employ to place 
 our relations on a temporary footing will be suffi- 
 cient to gain these most desirable results, pro- 
 viding we do not allow ourselves to be outdone 
 once more in diplomacy. 
 
 If we are ever to have a permanent peace with 
 
434 DIRECT COMMUNICATION WITH PEKING. Chap. XXII. 
 
 the Cantonese, if onr trade is to be carried on 
 peaceably, and if the lives and property of our 
 countrymen there are to be secured, the pride of 
 the Chinese officials must be humbled, and the 
 rabble mob in that city must be taught that they 
 cannot insult us with impunity. In the last war 
 this guilty city escaped, while we punished the 
 unoffending inhabitants of the cities to the north, 
 such as Amoy, Ningpo, and Shanghae. We can 
 scarcely commit such an error a second time. If 
 we must punish it seems but just that the chief 
 part of that punishment should fall upon the 
 guilty. 
 
 It appears to me to be useless, and only a waste 
 of time to attempt negociations with a man like 
 Commissioner Yeh. Even if he had the will to 
 agree to our terms he has not the power. We 
 must communicate directly with the Court of 
 Peking ; and to have influence there we must be 
 backed with an imposing force to compel a com- 
 pliance with our demands. 
 
 The best and easiest way to accomplish the 
 object in view would be to reoccupy the island of 
 Chusan. This island might be taken without 
 much loss, and while the city of Ting-hae and the 
 adjoining suburbs would afford shelter to our 
 troops, our fleet might rendezvous in its beautiful 
 and commodious harbours. This island is more 
 healthy than Hongkong or any other of the 
 northern ports, and this fact is one of very great 
 importance to the welfare of our troops. It has 
 
Chap. XXII. HOW TO CARRY OUT THESE VIEWS. 
 
 435 
 
 always been found in our wars with China that 
 the climate has been much more fatal to our 
 soldiers than the guns of the Chinese. 
 
 With a force in Chusan we could easily com- 
 municate with the Government of Peking. In 
 the south-west monsoon, from May to the end of 
 September, vessels of large draught can run up to 
 the gulf of Pee-che-lee and anchor at no very 
 great distance from the capital. Later in the 
 year, when the north winds are blowing, this 
 could not be done owing to the shallowness of the 
 gulf. 
 
 During the last Chinese war the most vulne- 
 rable point attacked was the city of Chin-kiang- 
 foo, a few miles below Nanking. Here the most 
 important inland trade of the empire is carried on 
 by means of the grand canal. But this city has 
 been occupied for some years by the insurgents, 
 and any attack upon it would only serve the ends 
 of the Imperial government. Nor would it serve 
 any good end to meddle with the ports of Amoy, 
 Foo-chow, Ningpo, and Shanghae, providing the 
 inhabitants at these places do not mix themselves 
 up in our quarrel. 
 
 It would seem, therefore, that our operations 
 should be directed principally to Canton in the 
 south, and to the capital and towns adjacent in 
 the north. And as these operations are likely 
 to last for some time, I can point to no better 
 place than Chusan as the head-quarters for our 
 troops. They are likely to suffer less here from 
 
436 THE CLIMATE WITH REFERENCE TO Chap. XXII. 
 
 the effects of climate than anywhere else, and will 
 have little difficulty in obtaining an abundant 
 supply of fresh provisions. 
 
 It is not my intention in these pages to offer 
 any suggestions to the commander of the Chinese 
 forces as to his mode of action. — I know nothing 
 of the art of war,- — hut as the whole coast of China 
 from Canton to Shanghae, and much of the inland, 
 is well known to me, any information I give is 
 entitled to consideration. 
 
 I have already remarked that the climate of the 
 country is much more to be dreaded than the 
 armies of the Chinese, and I shall draw these 
 remarks to a close by giving a description of what 
 that climate is. In all parts of China where I 
 have been, the hottest months in the year are 
 July and August. In the north the heat is very 
 oppressive from the middle of June to the end of 
 August. About Hongkong and Canton the op- 
 pressive heat commences a little earlier and lasts 
 longer, although it is not quite so intense as it 
 is further north. My registering thermometer 
 during July and August at Hongkong frequently 
 stood as high as 90°, and one day reached 94° in 
 the shade. In Shanghae and Ningpo the same 
 thermometer used to stand sometimes for days 
 at 100°. 
 
 But the hottest months are not the most un- 
 healthy, at least we have not so much sickness 
 then as we have a little later in the season. In 
 September, when the monsoon begins to change, 
 
Chap. XXII. THE HEALTH OF OUR TROOPS. 
 
 437 
 
 and when the northerly winds come down, causing 
 a sudden depression of temperature, natives as 
 well as foreigners suffer much from fever and 
 dysentery. The excessive summer heat seems to 
 weaken the constitution, and thus renders it more 
 easily affected by the sudden changes of tempera- 
 ture which occur at this period of the year. The 
 rivers of China are particularly unhealthy at this 
 season , a fact which ought to be kept in view by 
 the commanders of our ships of war. 
 
 When the monsoon is fairly set in, in October, 
 the climate of Shanghae and Ningpo is as healthy 
 as that of any part of the world. Although the 
 sun is hot during the day at this time, the air is 
 cool and bracing and the nights are cold. In the 
 end of October the thermometer sometimes sinks 
 as low as the freezing point. December, January, 
 and February are the coldest months of the year, 
 the cold then being quite as severe as it is in 
 England. Snow frequently falls, but the sun is 
 too powerful to allow it to lie long upon the 
 ground. Ice of a considerable thickness is formed 
 annually upon all the lakes and canals. 
 
 About Canton the winters are much warmer 
 than they are at the more northern ports ; the 
 thermometer rarely falls to the freezing-point, and 
 ice and snow are of very rare occurrence. But 
 the climate here, although perhaps not so bracing 
 to a European constitution, seems perfectly healthy 
 during the winter and spring months. 
 
 For eight or nine months out of the twelve, 
 
 2 g 2 
 
438 
 
 CONCLUSIONS. 
 
 Chap. XXII. 
 
 then, it would appear that the climate of China, 
 both in the north and also in the south, is healthy 
 to Europeans, and no doubt these are the proper 
 months for the prosecution of military operations 
 with English troops. 
 
 The monsoons in the China sea are not so 
 decided as they are in India, but generally the 
 prevailing winds from the end of April to the 
 middle of September blow from the south-west. 
 During the remainder of the year, northerly and 
 easterly winds prevail. Thus what is called the 
 south-west monsoon blows in summer, and the 
 north-east in winter. Sailing vessels from Europe 
 or India, bound for Hongkong or Chusan, or any 
 of the northern ports, are almost certain to have a 
 fair wind up the China sea from April to Septem- 
 ber, and vice versd, a fair wind down during the 
 other season. During the months of May, June, 
 July, and August, a fleet of sailing vessels could 
 easily rendezvous at Chusan, or any other point on 
 the Chinese coast, and if necessary come down to 
 Hongkong or Canton in three or four days, in 
 the end of September, when the monsoon changes. 
 But if these same vessels wanted to get from 
 Canton to Chusan at that period, they would find 
 considerable difficulty in reaching their destination. 
 
 From the information I have thus given it 
 would appear safe to arrive at the following con- 
 clusions. 1st. It is useless to attempt to negociate 
 with a man like Commissioner Yeh : we must 
 have communication with the Court of Peking. 
 
Chap. XXII. 
 
 CONCLUSIONS. 
 
 439 
 
 2nd. The island of Chusan is the most suitable 
 point from which we can conduct our negocia- 
 tions, both on account of its position, and as it is 
 the most healthy part of China for our troops. 
 3rd. If the lives and property of foreign mer- 
 chants and others are to be safe in Canton, the 
 mandarins and mob must be taught to treat us 
 with more respect. 4th. The other four ports 
 ought to be respected providing they do not mix 
 themselves up in our quarrel with the Cantonese. 
 5th. China ought to be opened, and all those 
 foolish restrictions imposed by the last treaty on 
 our trade should be swept away. 6. In conduct- 
 ing our operations the nature of the climate ought 
 to be carefully considered with a view to preserve 
 the lives of our soldiers and sailors. 
 
 In conclusion let us hope that the day is not far 
 distant, when this large and important empire, 
 with its three hundred millions of human beings, 
 shall not remain isolated from the rest of the 
 world. The sooner this change takes place the 
 better will it be for the Chinese as well as for our- 
 selves. Trade and commerce will increase to a 
 degree of which the most sanguine can form but a 
 very faint idea at the present time. The riches of 
 the country will be largely developed, and articles 
 useful as food, in the arts, or as luxuries, at pre- 
 sent unknown, will be brought into the market. 
 It cannot be true that a vast country like China, 
 where the soil is rich and fertile, the climate 
 favourable, and the teeming population industrious 
 
440 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 Chap. XXII. 
 
 and ingenious, can produce only two or three 
 articles of importance, such as silk and tea, for 
 exportation. There must he many more, and 
 these will be brought to light when the country is 
 fairly and fully opened to the nations of the west. 
 
 But when this is accomplished a boon of far 
 greater value will be conferred upon the Chinese 
 than anything connected with the extension of their 
 commerce. The Christian missionary will be able, 
 without fear or restriction, to proclaim the “ glad 
 tidings of great joy” to millions of the human race 
 who have never yet heard the joyful sound. 
 
 Objects such as these — the placing of our rela- 
 tions on a firm and satisfactory basis, the preven- 
 tion of unequal wars where much blood is neces- 
 sarily shed, the extension of trade and commerce, 
 and the free and unrestricted dissemination of the 
 Gospel of Christ — are worthy of the consideration 
 of the highest statesmen and greatest philanthro- 
 pists of our time. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 LONDON: PRINTED BY W. CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET, 
 AND CHARING CROSS.