DESCRIPTION OF A VIEW OF THE CITY QUEBEC, NOW EXHIBITING AT THE PANORAMA, LEICESTER SQUARE. PAINTED BY THE PROPRIETOR, ROBERT BURFORD. LONDON: PRINTED BY J. AND C. ADLARD, BARTHOLOMEW CLOSE. 1830. VIEWS OF ; 1 AMSTERDAM AND or PARIS ARE EXHIBITIN'!. AT THE PANORAMA, STRAND QUEBEC, The capital of Canada, and of the British possessions in North America,^stands at the northern extremity of a narrow and lofty point of land, formed by the junction of the rivers St. Lawrance and St. Charles, which terminates in a bold and almost perpen¬ dicular precipice, called Cape Diamond. Immediately beneath this precipice, and entirely round the base of the promontory, the lower town is built, on ground partly gained by mining the rocks, and partly by banking out the tide. The Upper Town only, built at a considerable elevation above, is visible in the present Panorama, which is taken from the highest part of the heights of Abraham, a short distance from the outworks. The view from this spot is of the most extensive, diversified, and sublime description; every object is on a grand scale; mountains, woods, and rivers, are all vast and imposing; but, at the same time, so combined and softened by distance, so charmingly varied and luxuriant, as to be extremely picturesque and pleasing: the scene in these respects is at least equal, if not superior, to any in the world. Immediately in front of the spectator, looking over the elaborate and almost impregnable fortifications by which it is surrounded, stands the Upper Town; its churches, convents, houses, &c. of white stone, gracefully rising above each other on the side of the hill, the spires and roofs of tin glittering in the sun like burnished silver. At an immense distance below, the magnificent river St. Lawrance appears, thickly studded with vessels of various nations, steam boats, rafts, canoes, &c. Beyond the extensive basin of Quebec, the fertile and beautiful isle of Orleans displays its verdant slopes, and picturesque high grounds, dividing the river into two broad channels; and in the distance the gulf, into which the stupendous and snow-white falls of Montmorenci are precipitated, is distinctly visible, through an opening in the elevated shores of Beauport. The whole left bank of the St. Lawrance displays the softest beauties of cultivation, and resembles for many leagues one vast garden, interspersed with clusters of white houses, tall spires, groves, and orchards, rising like terraces to the majestic chain of mountains which forms the back ground. The right bank displays Point Levi and its neat village; the elevated shores in its vicinity exhibiting signs of human industry to the water’s edge; beyond, as well as 4 to the south, the eye ranges over an immense tract of level country, parts of New Brunswick and Canada, until it reposes on successive chains of mountains, piled high on one another, covered with stately and almost impervious forests, fading blue and indistinct in the distant horizon. Travellers have often regretted that language could convey but a faint idea of the grandeur and beauty of the tout ensemble, which Weld declared surpassed all he had seen in America, or in any other part of the globe. The discovery of Canada was made by Jacques Cartier, who sailed under a royal commission from Francis I. He entered the gulf on the 10th of August, 1535, and, in honour of the day, called it the St. Lawrance. The efforts of the French to colonize this vast country were not, however, very successful, for it was not until 1608 that Samuel de Champlain formed a settlement at Quebec, which at first was so feebly supported, that fourteen years after it contained only fifty persons. In 1629 it was taken by the British, and restored again in 1632; so little value even then did the French set upon it, that it was for some time doubtful whether they would reclaim it. During the war with France, several unsuccessful attempts were made by the British to regain possession, particularly in 1692 and 1711. In 1759, after a spirited engagement on the plains of Abraham, in which the French were defeated by General Wolfe, the city surrendered; and, by the peace of 1763, was ceded with the rest of Canada to Great Britain. In the early part of the American war, generals Montgomery and Arnold attempted to surprise the city by attacking, at the same time, at different points; the former was killed, and his party dispersed, by the sudden and brisk fire of a few sailors and inhabitants. General Arnold also failed, and, after retaining possession of the lower town for a short time, was at last compelled to retreat. The site of the city has in every respect been most judiciously chosen; strong by nature, and from its altitude offering every advantage for increasing its strength, it may now be deemed impregnable, and forms the key to the Canadas, and a great portion of the interior of the States. The general breadth of the promontory is from one to two miles, at an elevation on the side of the St. Lawrance of nearly three hundred feet, the whole of the way to Cape Rouge, about nine miles, gradually sloping on the opposite side into the valley through which the St. Charles winds. The upper town, about two miles and three quarters in circumference, is enclosed by strong works, extending entirely across the peninsula; the lower is not fortified, all its passes being commanded by the works above. The communication between the two towns is by a long winding street, called Mountain street, defended by a strong gate at the top, and a steep flight of steps cut in the rock, called, from the frequency of accidents, “Break-neck stairs.” From the peculiar nature of the ground, the streets in the upper town are irregular and uneven, in other respects they are generally good, and are well paved and lighted. From the Market-place, which is large and well regulated, five principal streets run to the five gates, two or three of which open on extensive suburbs, which are daily cncreasing. The public buildings are but few, and possess but little claim to architectural taste or elegance, and scarcely relieve the heavy sameness of the other buildings; the architects, generally, seem to have had strength, durability, and usefulness in view, rather than external beauty. The most ancient houses are built of the dark lime slate of the rock on which the city stands, cut and laid in a peculiar manner, to prevent its splitting or crumbling; many (although there is a law forbidding it) are still covered with shingles, which, when painted of a dark colour, much resemble slates; the houses of recent erection are in the modern English style: of light grey rock-stone, the best quality of which is brought from Montreal; the roofs, as well as the spires of the churches, Sic., are of plates of tin, a durable, light, and (as they seldom or never rust,) elegant covering; the doors, shutters, window frames, &c., are more frequently painted red than any other colour. Shops there are but few, and those make but very little display; the principal business is transacted in the Market-place, and at the warehouses and stores by the waterside, in the lower town. The influx of persons from the surrounding villages on market day is, however, very great, particularly at the commencement of winter, which is generally very severe; they then come from a considerable distance on the St. Lawrance, by means of sleighs or sledges, of curious constructions, bringing vast quantities of provisions of every description, in a frozen state, which are purchased and kept for several months by the inhabitants. The population, including the adjoining suburbs, is estimated at about 20,000; the great body of the people are French Canadians. 6 EXPLANATION OF THE ENGRAVING. No. 2. BEAU PORT. A very neat village, handsome both in situation and appearance. It contains about a hundred houses, mostly of stone, but all as white as snow; and a Catholic church, with three tin-covered spires. By the village, a small river of the same name flows into the St. Lawrance; on its banks are flour and flax-seed oil mills, and an extensive distillery. The village is about seven miles in extent; beyond it the ground rapidly rises to an elevation of above two hundred feet. It was the head quarters of the Marquis Montcalm, whose troops were encamped on the rising ground. No. 3. HOTEL DIEU, One of the three excellent and well-conducted religious charitable institutions, which are ornaments to the city, and reflect the highest honour on the female devotees by whom they are conducted. It is a large stone building, with a garden and a small chapel, above which rises a neat spire. It owes its foundation to the Duchess d’Aiguillon, sister to Cardinal Richelieu, who, in 1638, sent three nuns from the hospital at Dieppe to establish and conduct it. The sick poor of both sexes are received gratuitously; medicine, food, and occasionally articles of clothing, supplied; and the most assiduous and constant attention paid to their comforts, by the superior and the thirty-six nuns who compose the sisterhood. The General Hospital is situated about a mile from the city, in the midst of meadows, on the banks of the St. Charles; it was founded by M. de St. Vallier, bishop of Quebec, in 1693, to afford relief to the poor, infirm, and sick. The building forms a paral¬ lelogram. The apartments are neat and commodious, and well adapted to the purpose. Protestants and Catholics are both received; and a sum is paid annu¬ ally from the government, in consequence of the benefits being extended to the military. The establishment consists of a superior and thirty-seven nuns, who take the duties of watching, tending, cooking, &c. by rotation, employing their leisure time in embroidery and fancy work, in aid of their funds. No. 4. FALLS OF MONTMORENCI. The river Montmorenci, called after a mareschal of that name, who was viceroy of New France, is a mountain stream of no great importance. A short distance before it approaches the falls, which are about nine miles from Quebec, its bed gradually declines; the current being thus urged, passes with extraordinary velocity through a large opening in the cliffs, composed of black lime-slate, and is precipi¬ tated, in a broad and undivided stream of snowy whiteness, into a vast semicir- cular basin below, sending up an immense column of spray, sparkling in the sun with all the colours of the rainbow. The height of the cascade is 246 feet, the breadth from 50 to 80, according to the season; in spring and autumn the melting snow and the rains occasion a great increase in the fall; in winter it has a singular appearance, from the immense cones of ice formed in the basin below. A small portion of the river has been diverted, for the purpose of giving motion to one of the most extensive saw mills in Canada; it belongs to Mr. Patterson, who has also, at a great expense, erected piers in the St. Lawrance, for the protection of the vast quantities of lumber that come to his mills. General Wolfe much wished to possess the heights, and made an unsuccessful attempt to gain them, in which lie lost some of the finest men in his army. No. 5. ST. ANNE. The mountain called St. Anne rises to the great height of 2100 feet. The pleasant and fertile village of the same name is situated under the undulating high bank, and is divided from the village of Chateau Richter by a small stream, called the Dog River. No. 6. ANGE GARDIEN, A neat and pretty village, the lands of which are kept in the highest state of cultivation. The villages on the banks of the St. Lawrance, to the extent of several miles, derive much advantage from supplying the markets of Quebec with the produce of their farms. Early on the market-days, the roads are covered with the carts and carioles of the Habitans, as well as the river with small boats and canoes, bringing pigs, poultry, butter, cheese, and every variety of vegetable, for sale. In winter, the sleighs or sledges, drawn by horses, are used on land, as well as on the ice. No. 7. BASIN OF QUEBEC. This magnificent bay is about four miles across in every direction; the depth of the water is twenty-eight fathoms, with secure anchorage in every part. The general rise in the tide is seventeen or eighteen feet; in springtides it rises as much as twenty-four. No. 8. CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL, A lofty spacious plain stone edifice, 316 feet in length, by 108 in breadth. A moderately handsome tower and spire, covered with tin, stands on one side the front; the interior is rather splendid in its decorations, and contains a fine organ, and a few good paintings. The service is well conducted with all the pomp cus¬ tomary in the Romish church: it will hold about 3000 persons. A plan has been recently agitated for erecting a much larger and more elegant edifice on the same spot. Adjoining the cathedral stands the Seminary, a spacious and sub- 8 stantial building, founded in 1663 by M. de Petre, exclusively to educate for the priesthood. Since the male religious houses have been prohibited, Catholic youth generally have been received, of whom there are usually about two hundred; boarders paying a small annual sum. It is under the management of a superior, three directors, and competent professors, who are paid from the revenues of their seignorial domains, and other sources. They have a small museum, a cabinet de physique, a good collection of philosophical instruments, and a library. No. 9. BARRACKS. A large square stone edifice, three stories in height, capable of conveniently lodging two thousand men. The building, which is very extensive and commodious, formerly belonged to a community of Jesuits, and when occupied by them it must have been the handsomest building in Quebec; it was founded in 1635. The British government having prohibited, at the conquest, the male religious orders from augmenting their numbers, the Jesuits have been some time extinct; the last individual of the body, Jean Joseph Casot, a native of Swisserland, bom in 1728, enjoyed the whole revenues of the society, amounting to £12,000 per annum, until his death, at a very advanced age; the whole then reverted to the crown. The landed property was designed as a recompence for the services of the late Lord Amherst in America, but was relinquished by his successor for a pension; and they have since been appropriated to the establishment of parochial schools in the different provinces. Some of the trees in the garden of this building are the remains of a wood, with which the promontory was originally covered. There is also, on the north side of the town, a substantial building, two stories in height, 527 feet in length, by 40 in breadth, forming barracks for the artillery, and containing the ordnance office, armoury, storehouses, workshops, &c. No. 10. CHATEAU RICHER. This village derives its name from the ruins of a Franciscan monastery, built in the latter part of the 17th century, on a small rocky eminence over the St. Lawrance. The monks having, at die time General Wolfe was encamped on the eastern bank of the Montmorenci, exerted their influence to impede the necessary supplies, it was deemed necessary to take them prisoners; their house was, however, so strongly fortified, that it sustained a siege, was destroyed, and never rebuilt. The parish church, with two spires, stands on an eminence near. A small river, called La Pucb, runs through the village into the St. Lawrence. No. 11. ENGLISH CATHEDRAL. A handsome modern building, of light grey stone, finished in every depart¬ ment with the very best materials the country affords. At one extremity it has a lofty, light, and elegant spire, covered with tin. The plan is said to have been taken from that of St. Martin’s in the Fields, which it somewhat resembles. Tire length is 136 feet, the breadth 75. The style and arrangement of the interior, resembles those of most English parochial churches, and it contains nothing- worthy of observation but an excellent organ. 9 No. 12. NORTH CHANNEL OF THE ST. LAWRENCE. The channel on the northern side of the Isle of Orleans is not so wide or so deep as that on the south. It is also obstructed by a small island, and a great accumulation of mud and sand from the falls of Montmorenci; it is consequently navigated only by sloops, schooners, and smaller craft. No. 13. ST. LOUIS’S GATE. One of the five gates. The walls are here fifty feet in thickness, and very strongly fortified. The road from this gate over the heights is the principal one to Montreal and the United States; to Montreal the distance is 184 miles; to Burlington, the first town in the States, 274; and to New York, 588. No. 14. CAPE TOUItMEUT, About thirty miles below Quebec. It is part of a vast ridge of rocks com¬ mencing near the eastern extremity of Lower Canada, and running almost parallel with the river above 100 miles; here the ridge takes a direction west-south-west, and may be traced as far as the Ottawar. The perpendicular height of the Cape is 2000 feet; and it stands 330 miles from the mouth of the St. Lawrence. No. 15. COURT HOUSE. A modern and handsome stone building, 136 feet long, by 44 broad. It con¬ tains the various courts of law, and the different offices connected therewith. The arrangement of the interior is good, and calculated to afford every facility for the transaction of public business. This building, and the Protestant Cathedral, were erected on the site of a monastery of Recollets, or Franciscan Friars, destroyed by fire in 1796; the brothers being too poor to rebuild, the order was dispersed, and the ground fell to government. No. 16. URSULINE CONVENT. A large and substantial stone edifice, forming a hollow square, connected with a neat small chapel, open to the public; but, the order being the most strict of any in Quebec, the nuns are concealed behind a large curtain. It was founded in 1639, by Mad. de la Peltrie, a rich young French widow, for the education of female children, of whom there are generally above 200 in the house, divided into three schools, two for the reception of the poorer classes, and one for the children of those who can afford to pay for the excellent education they receive. To assist their funds, which are rather small, the sisters, forty-two in number, dispose of various kinds of ornamental work, fruit from their garden, preserves, pickles, &c. 10 No. 17. ISLE OF ORLEANS, The largest and most beautiful island in the river. It is about forty-eight miles in circumference, being twenty miles in length, and six at its greatest breadth. The shores are very little elevated above the river; but it gradually rises to a con¬ siderable height in the centre, displaying the highest state of cultivation and fer¬ tility. It contains five parishes, two towards the north, and three towards the south, and about 4000 inhabitants. At the opposite extremity of the island, the river, the water of which here becomes perfectly fresh, is sixteen miles across. It was the first place occupied by General Wolfe; and an encampment was formed under Major Hardy. No. 18. SOUTH CHANNEL OF THE ST. LAWRANCE. The South Channel, possessing greater depth and breadth of water, is navigated by all large ships sailing to or from Quebec. 5 . No. 19. POINT LEVI. A high bluff towards the north-east, on the opposite side of the river, which, from Quebec, is about a mile across. Through the pleasant village lies the high road to Halifax, 708 miles distant, from whence the mails brought by the New York packets are forwarded overland to Canada. General Moncton formed an encampment of British troops at Point Levi, in June, 1759. A melancholy accident happened at the Point, in February 1825: a person named Rougon occu¬ pied a house at the foot of the precipice; a huge mass of snow, which had accu¬ mulated above, suddenly detached, and descending with great force, overwhelmed the house, and crushed to death llougon, his wife, and his three children. No. 20. THE CITADEL, The highest point of the elaborate and extensive works which surround the city. It is mounted with guns of a large calibre, and contains extensive magazines. The most elevated part is called Brock’s Battery. From the Citadel, immediately over the St. Lawrance, enormous walls of masonry cross to the St. Charles; these have the aid of outer works, ditch, glacis, and covered way; strong bastions project at intervals; and heavy cannon cross each other in every direction; other batteries and works are continued round the brow of the mountain; and the whole is deemed impregnable. A respectable force is at all times in the garrison; but it would take at least 10,000 men to properly defend the works. No. 22. CAPE DIAMOND. The extreme perpendicular height of Cape Diamond towards the soutli is 350 feet, towards the north it is 250. It presents a steep, rugged, and barren aspect, and, in many parts, projects fearfully over the lower town; in winter it frequently happens that portions are detached by the frost, and occasion serious accidents below. The whole of the distance to Cape Rouge is composed of a black lime- slate, which about a yard from the surface is quite compact; it lies in strata of various thicknesses, in some parts diagonal, in others perpendicular, but rarely 11 horizontal, bearing evident marks of having been, at some distant period, violently agitated by a great convulsion of nature. The fissures in the slate abound in brilliant and large specimens of transparent quartz, or rock crystals; these, from their resemblance to diamonds, have been the origin of the name of the rock. No. 23. THE RIVER. ST. LAWRANCE, One of the noblest rivers in the known world: its length may be estimated at nearly three thousand miles, and in this distance the navigation is only interrupted in three places: the river St. Marie, the falls of Niagara, and the rapids of Iroquois. The mass of waters it receives in its course, and discharges into the sea without a drop being diverted from its channel, is greater than that of any other river, and the vast lakes and streams which flow into it are no where rivalled in importance and grandeur. At its mouth it is ninety miles in breadth, and it meets the tide four hundred miles up; to this distance, fleets of the largest men of war have ascended, and found ample room for naval engagements. Merchant ships, of four or five hundred tons burthen, ascend nearly two hundred miles further, and the navigation is then continued by steam boats, batteaux, canoes, scows, and rafts. The banks of the river are in general high and bold, covered with dark foliage; the centre is frequently diversified by numerous islands, many settled, and all supplying good pasturage and large quantities of hay. No. 24. HEIGHTS OF ABRAHAM. The Heights of Abraham form the Hyde Park of the fashionables of Quebec, round and round which they parade on foot, and in every description of carriage, on Sundays and holidays, when the weather permits; it is also the course where races are occasionally held. Tire heights gradually widen as they retire from die city, at the same time gently sloping downwards; where the banks will admit, they are everywhere clothed with a luxuriant verdure of shrubs and trees. No. 27. TEMPORARY BARRACKS. The principal scene of action in the memorable engagement of 1759; traces of field works are still visible on the turf, and, until within these few years, die stone on which General Wolfe expired was to be seen, and was much visited; a small neat obelisk now marks the spot. On the 12di of September, 1759, General Wolfe made a feint of landing at Cape Rouge, and General Rourgainville was detached with a considerable force to oppose him; in the mean time, favored by darkness, the squadron put about, and, before eight o’clock on die following morning, the British troops had gained the heights, and formed dieir lines above Wolfe’s Cove. The Marquis Montcalm, whose head-quarters were at Beauport, could scarcely credit the news of the British being so near Quebec, but, assured of the truth, he hastened across the St. Charles, and formed his lines. By nine o’clock the battle commenced, which ended in the complete defeat and rout of his army. Bourgaiti- ville came up just at the close of die engagement, but, finding himself too late, he retreated to Trois Rivieres, and thence to Montreal. Both commanders fell during the engagement: General Wolfe received a wound early in the day, but continued to animate his troops by precept and example, until he received the fatal ball that closed his glorious career. Having been earned to the rear, in his last agonies he was aroused by the cry of “They run, they run:” having inquired “ Y ho run !” and being told the French, he exclaimed, “Then 1 thank God,—I die contented; and almost immediately expired. No. 28. MARTELLO TOWER, ()ne of the four Martello Towers, erected in a line across the peninsula, from the most elevated part of the Heights of Abraham, about half a mile from the garrison, to where it subsides into the valley. They are very strong, and being mounted with heavy guns, which would sweep the whole extent of the plains, must be demolished or silenced before an attack dare be made on the garrison; those parts towards the other works being less strong, they would soon be destroyed if in the hands of an enemy. No. 30. WOLFE’S COVE. Nearly three miles from Quebec, a break in the magnifieient line of cliffs forms the little recess or bay, so called from having been the spot where General Wolfe landed with his army, and with immense difficulty scrambled up a steep ravine, obstructed by felled trees, and defended by a small battery to the heights above. The Cove is now appropriated to the reception of lumber, which comes down the river from the States and Upper Provinces in rafts, frequently of half an acre surface: when the wind is favorable, they spread on these rafts ten or twelve large sails; at other times they are poled along with the tide. The men who navigate them build small wooden houses, where they reside with their families, pigs, poultry, &c., forming a complete floating village; when the rafts are broken up, a scene of disorder and drunkenness ensues, until the money they receive is entirely spent, and they then return. About a mile beyond Wolfe’s Cove is Sillery, the intervening space being principally occupied by extensive hop-grounds, originally planted by Mr. Hullett. At Sillery, the last important and severe battle, in the neighbourhood of Quebec, was fought, between the British forces and the French from Montreal, 28th of April, 1760. No. 31. POWELL PLACE. A delightful summer residence, built by Governor Sir J. Craig, who frequently made it the scene of much hospitality and festivity. It is pleasantly situated in the midst of plantations, on the edge of the precipice, overlooking Wolfe’s Cove, and the windings of the river. No. 35. CHARLEBOURG. A populous and well cultivated parish, about a league from Quebec, one of the oldest settlements on that side the St. Charles. The lands, which are about six miles in depth, formerly belonged to the Jesuits; the church, situated on an eminence, commands a rich and extensive prospect. No. 36. BRIDGE OVER THE ST. CHARLES. The river St. Charles, formerly called by tire natives “Cahir Coubat,” on account of the curvatures in its channel, rises in the northern hills; after passing the Indian ' village of Loretto, ten miles from Quebec, it forms a romantic cascade,about thirty feet in height, and then takes its course through the valley, abruptly bending towards the east, and gradually inclining until it joins the St. Lawranee. J. and C. Adlard, Printers, Bartholomew Close. of the City of o s of St Anne 3 Anye Gardierv 7 Basin of Quebec 3 Catholic Cathedral 9,Barracks late the desuits College JO Chateau Richer 22 Fry lish Cathedral 22 North Channel of the St Raw ranee, 23 St Bouts s Cade 24 Cape Tourment 20 Citadel 21 mountains leyondBaBoce 22 Boint f Cape Diamond 23 River' StRawrance 24Deiyhts cfAbraham 25 South Bard-cs of the StRawrance 25 Court Douse 23 TIrsidine Convent 27 Isle of Orleans 23 South Channel fthe StRawrance 20 Boint Revi tows 1 Reefs in the Mountains disclosing the Country through which the dlTontmorenci flo 2 Beaufort 3 Hotel TDieu 4Falls jfdlTontmorenci > gfifSHas '[/©mls®; 30 Boint f Wolfes Cove 31 Bowel Blace 28 .Martello Tower 29 Temporary Barracks 23 Jldartello Tower 27 Temporary BarraeTcs 32 Steeple ofStFoix Church 33 MlTerraults Country Douse 34 Dor tello Tower 3d Charlebourg 36 Bridye over die St Charles