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 JOHN MURK AT. ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2015 
 
 https://archive.org/details/handbookfortrave00john_15 
 
HANDBOOK FOE TRAVELLERS 
 
 DERBY, NOTTS, LEICESTER, 
 
 AND 
 
 STAFFORD. 
 
 A sJTA F Oy> 
 
 — r Pook s oilers 
 '■ , ^ &>««** ^ 
 ' s *^l ORnor on 1 0^ 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Introduction 
 
 Page ix 
 
 ROUTES. 
 
 %* The names of places are printed In italics only in those routes where the places are 
 
 described. 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 1. Burton to Derby [Repton) . 2 
 
 2. Derby to Trent Junction , by 
 
 Castle Bonington [Mel- 
 bourne") 10 
 
 3. Trent Junction to Chesterfield, 
 
 by Ilkeston , Alf reton, and 
 Clay Cross ..... 12 
 
 4. Derby to Sheffield, by Belper 
 
 and Chesterfield [ TFiV/es- 
 wortli) . * . . .14 
 
 5. Derby to Bakewell, by Mat- 
 
 lock ... ... 23 
 
 6. Bakewell to Buxton [Haddon 
 
 Hall , Chatsworthy the Lath- 
 kill , Tideswell) .... 30 
 
 7. Buxton to Manchester, by 
 
 Ch apel-en-le- Frith , Whaley 
 Bridge , and §tock port . . 43 
 
 8. Chapel-en-le-F »th to Bake- 
 
 well, by Castle ton, Hope , 
 Hathersage , and Eyam [ The 
 
 Peak) 48 
 
 9. Buxton to Hayfield and Glos - 
 
 sop 59 
 
 10. Derby to Nottingham , by 
 
 Trent Junction .... 60 
 
 11. Nottingham to Lincoln, by 
 
 Newark 70 
 
 12. Nottingham to Grantham, by 
 
 Bingham and Bottesford 
 [Belvoir) 74 
 
 13. Nottingham to Mansfield . by 
 
 Newstead [ Hardwick Hally 
 Bolsover) 77 
 
 14. Newark to Mansfield, by South- 
 
 well 87 
 
 I ROUTE TAGE 
 
 15. Mansfield to Worksopy by Sher- 
 wood Forest [ Welbeck) . 89 
 
 ! 16. Newark to YVorksop, by Oiler- 
 
 ton [Thoresby, Clumber) . 93 
 
 17. Newark to Doncaster, by Tux - 
 
 ford , Retfordy and Bawtry 95 
 
 18. Worksop to Doncaster, by Tick- 
 
 hill [Big thy Roche Abbey) . 98 
 
 10. Market JT arbor on gh to Lei- 
 cester [Nevill Holt J . .101 
 
 20. Nuneaton to Leicester, by 
 
 Hinckley [Bosworth Field) 109 
 
 21. Leicester to Bel voir, by Melton 
 
 Mowbray 112 
 
 22. Leicester to Burton,' by Ashby- 
 
 de-\a-Zouch 115 
 
 23. Ashby-de-la-Zouch to Leicester, 
 
 through Chamwood Forest 
 [<Stf. Bernards Monastery 
 Bradgate Park) . . .119 
 
 24. Rugby to Trent Junction, by 
 
 Mount Sorrel and Lough- 
 borough [Lutterworth) • .123 
 
 25. Birmingham to Wellington, by 
 
 West Bromwich and Wolver- 
 hampton 128 
 
 j 26. Birmingham to Crewe, by 
 Wolverhampton, BusMuryy 
 and Stafford . . • .135 
 
 27. Stourbridge to Burton-on- 
 
 Trent, by Dudley , Walsall, 
 and Lichfield . . . .145 
 
 28. Birmingham to Burton-on- 
 
 Trenty by Tamworth . 160 
 
 29. Walsall to Rugeley , by Can- 
 
 nock [Needwood Forest ] . 166 
 
VI u 
 
 Contents. 
 
 ROUTE TAGE 
 
 . 
 
 Rngeley, OohticK, and Staf- 
 ford 169 
 
 31. Colwich to Stoke-on-Trent, by 
 
 Siml 'N, Stont, and Trentham 
 \CKartUy] 173 
 
 32. Crewe to Burton-on-Trent, by 
 
 Stokc-oH- T rent , 1 7tagrf*r, 
 
 and Tulhury [ The Potteries] 178 
 
 33. Uttoxctcr to Buxton, by A<h- 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 fa'irne and Ilirtirvjton 
 [Dor^ile] 186 
 
 34. Uttoxctcr to Macclesfield, by 
 
 Alton To*rer$ and Ixvk 
 
 
 
 35. Stoke-on-Trent to Congleton, 
 
 . 
 
 36. Stoke-on-Trent to Market 
 
 Drayton, by AVi rcastle^ 
 
 . 
 
 207 
 
 IVPEX 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 I. Physical Features and Geology ix 
 
 II. Communications xxiii 
 
 III. Industrial Resources xxvii 
 
 ; IV. Antiquities xxxiv 
 
 V. Places of Interest xlv 
 
 VI. Skeleton Tours xlix 
 
 I. Physical Features and Geology. 
 
 a. Derbyshire lies a little to the N.E. of the centre of England, and 
 under shelter, as it were, of the great backbone of the land, at least a 
 third of the most northerly portion of the county being occupied by the 
 southern outliers of that range. Indeed, there is hut little flat and level 
 ground in Derbyshire, and what there is is almost entirely in the S., in 
 the neighbourhood of the Trent and its feeders. The mountainous 
 district in the W. and N.W., known as the Peak, and chiefly lying, 
 as far as Derbyshire is concerned, in the High Peak hundred, but 
 extending southward into that of Wirksworth, contains that beautiful 
 scenery of the millstone-grit and mountain limestone for which the 
 county is pre-eminent. This scenic interest, however, does not arise so 
 much from the elevation of the hills, the most lofty of which are only 
 about half the height of those in Wales and Scotland, as from their 
 romantic grouping and the bold and varied arrangement of the dales 
 and doughs, which offer exquisite landscape pictures. It may here 
 be noted that, although this mountainous district is generally attri- 
 buted to Derbyshire, and goes by the distinctive name of the Peak, 
 it extends in reality over a considerable portion of North Staf- 
 fordshire (in the hundred of Totmanslow), where it is known as the 
 Moorlands. The Staffordshire section includes the W. part of the 
 valley of the Dove (the dividing line of the counties), and the valleys 
 of the Manifold, Hamps, and Churnet (wherein stand Alton Towers), 
 the Weever range of hills, the wild scenery of the Roaches near Leek, 
 and many other points of interest. The district also impinges upon 
 Cheshire, in which county we find the wild upland moors on the W. 
 side of the Goyt, a few miles from Buxton, culminating at the Cat 
 and Fiddle, a well-known moorland inn (Rte. 7). But to return to 
 Derbyshire: the mountain, called by some the Peak, which is the 
 centre of this district, is an escarped plateau of millstone-grit, of 
 about 3 m. in length, in the corner between Yorkshire and Cheshire, 
 having for its principal points Kinderscout, 1981 ft. ; Madwoman’s 
 Stones, 1880 ft. ; and Edale Moor. To the N. and E. of the Kinder- 
 scout range is a continuation of the grit in open moors, extending into 
 
x i. Physical Features and Geology . Introd. 
 
 Yorkshire as far E. as Sheffield, under the names of Glossop Moor; 
 Featherbed Moss, 1773 ft.; Alport Moor; Howden Edge; Derwent 
 Edge ; and Bamford Moor ; the majority of which are from 1500 ft. 
 to 1800 ft. in height, and contain scenery of a wild character, pleasantly 
 varied by the soft luxuriance of the small river- valleys. The Der- 
 
 went is the principal river of this district, rising in the grit moors 
 near Glossop, flowing due S., and receiving the tributary streams of 
 the West-End, Alport, and Ashop. To the S. of the Kinderscout 
 range is the beautiful valley of the Noe (which includes Castleton), 
 the southern boundaries of which are Cowburn ; Rushup Edge, 1816 ft. ; 
 Mam Tor, 1709 ft. ; and Lose Hill, 1572 ft. ; round which latter hill, and 
 between it and Win Hill, 1532 ft., the stream winds to join the Derwent 
 lower down. To the W. of the Peak, and above Chapel-en-le-Frith, the 
 millstone-grit continues its course into Cheshire, forming the picturesque 
 heights of Dympus (1633 ft.) and Chinley Churn (1493 ft.). The small 
 streams that water these valleys, such as Otterbrook and Blackhrook, run 
 westward into the Goyt (a head-water of the Mersey), and so find their 
 way into the Irish Channel. To the S. of Chapel-en-le-Frith, the 
 Manchester and Buxton Railway may be roughly taken as the division 
 between the millstone-grit and the limestone ; the former being well seen 
 in Comb’s Moss, from whence it gradually becomes of less import- 
 ance. To the S.W. of Buxton, which is finely placed at the point 
 where the limestone emerges from under the millstone-grit, is Axe 
 Edge, 1751 ft., a long prolongation of grit, giving rise to the Goyt and 
 the Dane, which flow into the Irish Sea, and the Wye and the Dove, 
 that run into the German Ocean. To the S. of a line drawn from 
 Buxton, Chapel-en-le-Frith, Castleton, Hope, and Hathersage, ex- 
 tends a large area of mountain limestone, as far S. ns Ashbourne and 
 Uttoxeter, and E. to Matlock, Cromford, Ambergate, and Belper; indeed 
 almost as far as Derby itself. This district is full of interesting and 
 beautiful valley scenery, although few hills rise above 1500 ft. ; the 
 principal of these are in the valley of the Dove (of which the western 
 portion is in Staffordshire), such as Chrome Tor, High Wheeldon, 
 Thorpe Cloud, Wolfscote, &c., and the ramifications of the lime- 
 stone dales are most beautiful and extraordinary, 6ome of them being 
 watered by streams of fair size, while others are mere ravines, where 
 the water scarcely leaves a path even for the pedestrian. The whole 
 course of the Wye, of the Derwent from Hathersage to Ambergate, 
 and of the Dove in its middle portion, is through a series of preci- 
 pitous and escarjxjd rocks, in which the characteristic features of limestone 
 districts are well seen. A common occurrence is that of “ swallows” 
 or “swallow-holes,” consisting of a pit or cleft in the rock, through 
 which a stream suddenly disapjiears, emerging again to the light of day 
 a considerable distance off. Such are to be found at Doveholes, Worm- 
 hill, Perryfoot, near Castleton, and in the Staffordshire valleys of 
 the IIam|>s and Manifold. “These swallow-holes, as they are justly 
 called, often seem to mark out interruptedly for miles the lines of lime- 
 
Introd. 
 
 I. Physical Features and Geology . 
 
 xi 
 
 stone, whose actual edges may be obscured by the sliding of other 
 matter with them.” — Phillips. The principal development of the lime- 
 stone is to the S. of Castleton, which is also famous for its magnificent 
 caverns and mines, at Tideswell, and in the course of the Wye through 
 Miller’s Dale and Monsal Dale to Bakewell and Matlock ; at which latter 
 place the cliffs, such as High Tor and Masson, assume noble pro- 
 portions. The convulsions to which the limestone has been exposed 
 are well seen in the great chasms and rifts of these river- valleys, as are 
 also the wasting effects of the elements, which have been sufficient to 
 excavate vertical rents and to insulate those great rock-pinnacles 
 that, in Dovedale especially, give the most romantic features to the 
 valleys. “ The shale and grit, or flagstone, series, above the scar-lime- 
 stone, is called in Derbyshire the limestone-shale. It is about 500 ft. 
 thick, and consists principally of black or brown durable shale, forming 
 a very wet soil, aud causing landslips of great extent beneath the mill- 
 stone-grit summits. Mam Tor, or the Shivering Mountain, exhibits 
 these characters very decidedly. The shale, however, is interstrati tied, 
 to a great extent and with considerable regularity, with thick rocks of 
 fine-grained micaceous gritstone, of excellent quality for building, and 
 (generally at the bottom of this rock) with good durable micaceous 
 flagstone, similar to that in the more recent coal-strata. Some less 
 regular sandstone beds, called ‘ cankstone,’ approach very nearly to the 
 nature of the ganister series of the coal-strata. Mr. Farcy, who con- 
 siders these interpolations as anomalous, calls by the same name the 
 very characteristic beds of black argillaceous limestone which lie in this 
 shale at Ashford and Ashbourne, and produce lime fit for water-cement.” 
 — Phillips. The thickness of the lower or scar-limestone is generally 
 estimated at 750 ft. ; of the shale above at 500 ft. ; and of the capping of 
 millstone-grit at 360 ft. more. The scar-limestone in Derbyshire has 
 been curiously divided into 4 well-defined beds, by the eruption, at 
 three different periods, of a basaltic rock of amygdaloidal character and 
 mottled surface, known as toadstone, the thickness of each bed being 
 from 60 to 80 ft. A good example may be seen in the High Tor 
 cavern at Matlock (Rte. 5). Where these toad stone-beds have come 
 across metalliferous veins, they have changed their character and 
 direction, sometimes cutting them off altogether. The districts cf 
 carboniferous limestone and grit to the N. of Crich Hill and Matlock 
 are bounded on the E. by the vale of the Amber. “Crich Hill 
 (Rte. 5) affords a highly interesting illustration of the effect of igneous 
 action. It is a dome-shaped hill of mountain-limestone, consisting 
 of arched strata, enfolding a central mass of trap. This dome of lime- 
 stone has been forced up through the once superincumbent strata of 
 millstone-grit which now forms a broken and highly-inclined wall 
 around it. Such is Crich Hill — a stupendous monument of one of the 
 past revolutions of the globe — with its arches of rifted rock, teeming 
 with mineral veins and resting on a central mound of molten rock, 
 now cooled down into an amorphous mass of compact basalt." — ManttU. 
 Between Ashover and Chesterfield there is a watershed, from which 
 
In trod. 
 
 xii I. Physical Features and Geology. 
 
 the Amber flows southward to the Derwent, and the Hipper and 
 Bother northward to join the Don. 
 
 The Amber forms the boundary-line (superficially) between the lime- 
 stone and the coal-measures of the Derbyshire and Nottinghamshire 
 fields, which doubtless, prior to the elevation of the mountain lime- 
 stone, were continuous with those of Cheshire and I«ancashirc. A line 
 drawn from Yorkshire (for this coal-field is geologically one with the 
 South Yorkshire field), through Chesterfield, Dronfield, Alfrcton, and 
 Heanor to Sandiacre, will mark out its western extent. On the E. it 
 is defined by the magnesian limestone and Lower Permian strata, 
 the coal-field and form a picturesque rid^c of table- 
 land, known by the name of Scarsdale, and extending from Barl- 
 borotigh on the N. to Bolsover and Pleasley, where it enters Notting- 
 hamshire. The E rewash valley (tho natural division between the 
 two counties) intersects the coal-l^asin on the S. from Sandiacre to 
 Ilkeston and Cod nor Park, leaving a portion of the field in Nottingham- 
 shire. The coal-field consists of open valleys and wooded uplands, 
 which, on the whole, are not so much disfigured by the appliances for 
 iron-making and coal-getting as in most colliery districts, except, 
 perhaps, in the neighbourhood of Clay Cross. Mr. Hull gives the 
 following general section of the Permian and Coal strata : — 
 
 Permian Rocks . 
 
 1 . Marl* and sandstone 40 feet. 
 
 2. Magnesian limestone 60 ,, 
 
 A Marls — sandstone . . 30 „ 
 
 Middle Coal Measures. 
 
 Strata to top hard coal about 700 „ 
 
 f Waterloo coal 
 
 EU 
 
 Lower hard 
 Furnace 
 
 P.lvk diale or day 
 
 Kilburn 
 
 Shale* 
 
 1600., 
 
 /»«r Co i / Measures or Canister Series. 
 
 Flagstone* of Wiagfidd Manor, shale*, and 
 flaggy sandstone*, with two ami* underlaid 
 by gablv floors 1000 || 
 
 The best amis are the Top Hard and Ix>wer Hard, the firmer being 
 identical with the celebrated Arley Mine of Imnmshirr. The ironstone 
 measures are of great value, and arc usually called Hakes. 'Hie most 
 r. • wn as the Brown and Black Hak* 
 
 Wallis's, Ilugtoolh, Black Shale, and Honeycrofl Hakes, the latter Iwing 
 principally worked at Staunton, near Ilk*ston. The I bile Moor Hake, 
 worked also at the name |4acc f abounds in fossil fisli of the genua Pain?- 
 
Introd. i. Physical Features and Geology . xiii 
 
 oniscus and Flatysomus ; and the Dogtooth Rake at Chesterfield is noted 
 for the plentiful occurrence of the shell named Anthracosia. The 
 geologist in exploring the carboniferous strata of Derbyshire will have 
 no difficulty in collecting a bag of characteristic specimens, the limestone 
 everywhere displaying typical fossils, particularly zoophytes and cncri- 
 nites. To the S. of the limestone and coal districts occupying the 
 remainder of Derbyshire is the new red sandstone, through which the 
 lower portions of the Dove and the Derwent wind their way to join 
 the Trent. This part of the county is generally flat, though bv no 
 means deficient in beauty, and contains the most productive land, 
 although it is of somewhat cold soil. To the S. of the Trent, and W. 
 of the Soar, the ground is broken and varied, particularly as it 
 approaches Leicestershire. A considerable quantity of gypsum is 
 worked at Chellaston, between Derby and Melbourne, for the purpose 
 of being made into plaster of Faris. (Rte. 2.) 
 
 The Upper Keuper clays here are interesting to the geologist as 
 yielding abundance of minute Foraminifera, Cythere, Otolites, with 
 spines and plates of small Echinoderms. 
 
 The following summary of soils of Derbyshire, compiled by Mr. 
 Farey, may be interesting : — 
 
 Gravelly 
 
 Red marl 
 
 Yellow limestone 
 
 Coal measures 
 
 Gritstone and shale 
 Limestone and sandstone 
 Lower limestone 
 
 522,080 
 
 77.000 acres. 
 
 81.000 „ 
 21,580 „ 
 90,000 „ 
 
 160,500 „ 
 
 51.500 „ 
 
 40.500 „ 
 
 b. Nottinghamshire , which is surrounded by the counties of Derity, 
 Leicester, Lincoln, and York, has none of the varied and hilly character 
 for which its neighbour on the west is so famous, as it lies quite out 
 of the influence of the great ranges which form the backbone of England. 
 But if it is wanting in mountainous scenery, it possesses all the pleasant 
 and picturesque characters of a thoroughly English county, in which 
 forests and rivers, uplands and fertile dales, busy villages and manu- 
 facturing towns, alternately present themselves. 
 
 The principal interest of the county is attached to the westerly portion, 
 the most broken ground and varied scenery being found there, and, perhaps 
 as a natural sequence, a large number of notable seats and residences. 
 Indeed it is to be questioned whether any district in England is so 
 rich in fine estates as that between Worksop and Nottingham. 
 
 The Erewash river separates Nottinghamshire from Derbyshire, mean- 
 dering first into one county, then into the other. To the E. of this line, 
 as far as Worksop, runs a belt of the highest ground that Nottingham- 
 shire contains, which, speaking broadly, may be said to be included in 
 the Sherwood Forest district, the most lofty eminences of which, how- 
 
xiv i. Physical Features and Geology . Introd. 
 
 ever, do not exceed 600 ft. in height. In fact, they can scarcely be called 
 hills so much as successive plateaus of high ground. The Forest of Sher- 
 wood is now for the greater part enclosed and under cultivation, though 
 there is still left some agreeable woodland scenery, with a few old trees 
 here and there that possibly may have sheltered Robin Hood and Little 
 John, particularly in the districts known as Birkland and Bilhaugh, be- 
 tween Worksop and Ollerton. This plateau gives rise to several streams, 
 which, though flowing in different directions, all belong to the same 
 watershed as that of the Trent, in which the whole county is included. 
 They are — the Erewash, rising to the S.W. of Mansfield and flowing S. 
 to join the Trent at Long Eaton ; the Lene, from near Newstead, to 
 the Trent at Nottingham ; the Dovor Beck, which runs a nearly 
 parallel course, a few miles E. ; the Mann or Maun, and Meden, to the N. 
 of Mansfield ; and the ltainworth, rising near Newstead. These three 
 latter streams all flow to the N. E. through the richest j>ortions of the 
 Dukery, and eventually unite under the name of the Maun, which, after 
 receiving a small stream called the Poulter, runs northward to Retford, 
 where it takes the name of the Idle and becomes a rather important 
 navigable river. 
 
 44 Yet Sherwood all this while, not satisfied to show 
 Her love to princely Trent, as downward she doth flow. 
 
 Her Meden and her Mann she down from Mansfield scuds 
 To Idle for her aid.” — Drayton. 
 
 It then passes Bawtry, receiving the waters of the Ryton (which rises 
 near Welbeck), and makes an abrupt turn, skirting the northern 
 division of the county, and falling into the Trent as this river leaves 
 Nottinghamshire for Lincolnshire. The last j)ortion of its course is 
 known as the Car Drain. This northern part of the county, which is 
 bounded on the S. by the Manchester, Sheffield, and Lincolnshire Rly., 
 is flat and comparatively uninteresting, particularly on the eastern side 
 of the Great Northern Rly. ; it partakes very much of the Lincoln- 
 shire character of scenery and its singular intersecting dykes or drains. 
 
 * Whoever will take his station upon the hills near Styrrup, Everton, 
 or Gringley, will at once perceive that the whole of the level ground 
 now known by the names of Gringley, Everton, Misson, and Styrrup 
 Cars — the latter extending through the lands of Tickhill, Stancil, and 
 Hesley, to Rossington and Doncaster — has at one time been covered 
 with water, which, divided by the high grounds of Plumtrc, Bawtry, 
 Martin, and Shooter’s Hill, has to the N.E. of Rossington Bridge 
 formed one immense lake or estuary, covering the localities where now 
 stand Haxey, Thorne, and Hatfield, and, as we may reasonably con- 
 jecture, communicating with the Humber or the Sea. The soil of all 
 these Cars is essentially of the same character — black bog — and is filled 
 with trees, generally speaking, pine, oak, and yew, which have evidently 
 stood very thick on the ground, and, having fallen off at the base and 
 leaving their roots in situ, are buried about a foot deep, although in 
 some instances much deeper.” — Raine. The district between Sherwood 
 Forest and the Trent gradually becomes flatter and less picturesque 
 as it recedes from Sherwood ; but when the Trent is approached, the 
 
Introd. 
 
 i. Physical Features and Geology. 
 
 xv 
 
 scenery offers many beautiful river views, such as Gainsborough and 
 Constable loved to paint. The Trent— celebrated by Camden as the 
 river which 
 
 “Triginta dat mihi piseem 
 and sung by Drayton as the river 
 
 “ Which thirty doth import ; by which she thus divined. 
 
 There should be found in her of fishes thirty kind ; 
 
 And thirty abbeys great, in places fat and rank, 
 
 Should in succeeding time be buiided on her bank ; 
 
 And thirty several streams, from many a sundry way, 
 
 Unto her greatness should their watery tribute pay ■ — 
 
 and by Milton in a juvenile poem as 
 
 “ Trent, who like some oarthborn giant spreads 
 His thirty arms along the indented meads " — 
 
 enters Nottinghamshire just after receiving the Soar from Leicester- 
 shire, and flows in a north-easterly direction across the county past 
 Nottingham and Newark, dividing it into two unequal portions, of 
 which the southern forms scarcely a fourth part. This district is 
 broken and picturesque, and is known by the name of the Wolds, of 
 which the highest portions are the Leake Hills to the E. of Kegworth. 
 Two or three streams, such as the Smite and Deven, “ two neat and 
 dainty rills,” water these miniature dales and fall into the Trent be- 
 tween Nottingham and Newark. 
 
 The geology of Nottinghamshire is not . so interesting as that of 
 Derbyshire. The beds of the lias, new red sandstone, magnesian 
 limestone, and coal, succeed each other in regular sequence from 
 E. to W. The lias district may be defined by a line drawn from 
 near Gainsborough to Newark, and thence to Bingham, keeping on 
 the eastern side of the valley of the Trent. Near Bingham the 
 lias-beds trend to the S. and enter Leicestershire, their contour 
 being marked by the valley of the Soar. “From Gringley-on-the- 
 Hill to West Markham extends a bold and elevated chain of hills, 
 composed chiefly of red marl, lias, shale, and limestone, which com- 
 mands a very extensive view of the counties of Lincoln and Notting- 
 ham, as well as of South Yorkshire, and from which, as the most 
 remarkable feature of the district, the hundred of Bassetlaw, Bersetlaw, 
 the Berset Hill, has indisputably in remote antiquity derived its name.” 
 To them succeed the red marls and Keuper sandstones of the New Bed, 
 which indeed may be said to occupy by far the greatest portion of the 
 county — extending westward to a line drawn from Doncaster to Worksop, 
 Mansfield, and Nottingham. The caverns of Nottingham, Sneinton, 
 Papplewick, and others, are all excavated from the New Bed series. Con- 
 siderable deposits of gravel are found, particularly in the district of Sher- 
 wood Forest, in many places consolidated into a breccia or conglomerate. 
 Between the New Bed and the coal-basin, occupying a thin strip of 
 about 6 to 8 miles in breadth, is the magnesian limestone, which is 
 interesting inasmuch as several pits have been sunk through these beds 
 to the underlying coal. Indeed, by far the greater part of what is known 
 as the Nottingham shire coal-basin is in reality covered superficially by 
 
xvi i. Physical Features and Geology . IntrocL 
 
 Ferroian lieds. At the Shireonks Colliery, near Worksop, the Upper 
 Permian marls, magnesian limestones, and Lower Permian beds, are 
 196 feet in thickness, through which the sinking has been carried before 
 arriving at the coal — the subsequent strata of the coal-measures being 
 1500 fL, and containing the following seams of coal, together with beds 
 of ironstone : — 
 
 The Manor Coal 
 
 Shirrooks 
 
 Furnace 
 
 Hajrl« 
 
 Top Hard or Ilamsley (cut at a depth of 510 yd*.) 
 
 Dunthill 
 
 Waterloo 
 
 Soft 
 
 Lower Hard 
 
 31 
 
 The Puke of Newcastle’s success in this attempt to plant the coal 
 under the Permian solved a great problem, important not only as a 
 local fact, but to the country* at large, viz. the possibility and feasi- 
 bility of extending our coal-workings into districts hitherto untried. 
 The Sliireoaks experiment proves “ the existence of the coal in workable 
 scams continuously from Sheffield under the Permian rocks and New 
 Bed sandstone. The seams lie so horizontal that the eastern limit of 
 the field cannot be determined.” 
 
 c. LeieesUrthire, from its peculiar conformation, presents a number 
 of salient angles, which consequently involves a larger projortion than 
 usual of neighbours, viz. the counties of Nottingham, Lincoln, Rutland, 
 Northampton, Warwick, and Derby. Ixdcos tenth ire does not rank 
 high in the estimation of tourists for scenic beauty ; but, although the 
 hills, generally speaking, arc anything but lofty, they frequently have, 
 especially in the northern portion of the county, owing to geological 
 causes, a sharpness and irregularity of outline that is highly pictu- 
 resque. The vales, too, are rich and fertile, and the more open country, 
 if somewluit monotonous, as becomes a great grazing district, is cheerful 
 and breezy, and irresistibly recalls to all who arc fond of sjort the music 
 of the bounds as they sweep along in full cry over the finest hunting 
 country in the world, in fact, Leicestershire is a thoroughly English 
 county, and deserves to be letter known than it is by the tourist, who 
 will find a gnat deal of interest in its lanes and byways, its moors 
 and commons, its village# with their suggestive Danish names, and 
 where the inhabitants often unite frame-work knitting with the rude 
 labour of the agriculturist. The hilly portion* of Isncrstershire nro 
 rather detached and isolated gmujs than continuous ranges, Uuac which 
 could best lie described under the latter bead being in the Wold district, 
 which on the N.K. bonier arc rart and (arcel of the same high grounds 
 in Nottinghamshire and Lincolnshire, stretching all the way from Pel- 
 
 Fret thick. 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 • 
 
 3* 
 
 4 
 
Introcl. i. Physical Features and Geology. xvii 
 
 voir Castle on the borders to Barrow-on-the-Soar, and overlooking on 
 the S. the plains of Melton Mowbray. Towards Barrow this range 
 thickens ont, and occupies part of Nottinghamshire to the S. of Bing- 
 ham. It gives rise to the Devon and Smite, which flow northward to 
 join the Trent near Newark, and on the southern side to some small 
 streams flowing into the Wreak. This latter is a somewhat important 
 river in Leicestershire hydrography, running E. and W. to join the 
 Soar at the base of the Wolds. It rises under the name of the Eye 
 near Oakham, and receives a stream from Kettleby, near Melton, after 
 which it takes its name of Wreak. The Leicester and Peterborough 
 Rly. traverses the same valley, and the pleasant-looking stream is 
 seldom out of sight from the line. 
 
 Along the southern portion, corresponding to the northern Wolds, is a 
 rather long range of hills, which separate tire basin of the Soar from 
 that of the Welland, and run round, more or less interruptedly, towards 
 the Rutlandshire border. From this range rise the Swift, flowing past 
 Lutterworth to join the Avon, and a few smaller streams that fail into 
 the Welland. This portion of the county thus belongs to a different 
 water system from the rest. 
 
 The most northerly point of the county, which projects into Derby- 
 shire, is separated on the E. from Nottinghamshire by the Soar, and 
 is a continuation of the high grounds near Castle Donington and 
 Ivegworth that occupy the angle between the Trent and the Soar. 
 To the S. these are connected, though with a slight interval, 
 , svith the most lofty and most picturesque of Leicestershire hills, viz. 
 Chamwood Forest, which fills up more or less with its outliers the 
 district embraced by the Midland main line and the Leicester and 
 Swannington Rly. There is a boldness about these syenitic ridges 
 that at once bespeaks their igneous origin, and which, had the ele- 
 vating process been earned a little farther, would have given them a 
 place among English mountains. The principal range runs N.W. to 
 S.E., from Gracedieu to Bradgate, flinging off the eminence of Bardon 
 Hill, which, though only 853 ft. in height, from its singular position 
 commands a more extensive view than many hills twice its altitude. 
 
 Geologically speaking, the Charnwood Forest hills may be described 
 as a series of syenitic rocks, protruded through overlying schistose and 
 carboniferous deposits, and surrounded at their base by triassic strata, 
 which are disposed horizontally and were deposited subsequently to the 
 elevation of the forest. Professor Ansted, however, believes that the 
 syenitic and granitic rocks are nearly of the same date as the slates 
 with which they seem to alternate. “ The slates are found disturbed 
 by an anticlinal axis, and are turned round at the southern extremity, 
 but, with that exception, all dip in the same direction on both sides of 
 the granites and syenites. There are also in many places very well 
 marked alternations and passages by which the slates may Ire traced 
 into granite. This perfect gradation is one of the geological character- 
 istics of the district, and, combined with the extensive variety of rocks 
 
Introd. 
 
 xviii i. Physical Features and Geology. 
 
 of the granitic kind, renders the whole of Charnwood Forest typical 
 of English geology. It is clear either that the slates were originally 
 a continuous submarine deposit, of which certain parts have since 
 become porphyries, or that the slates were formed from clay at suc- 
 cessive intervals of time, the time being long enough and the change 
 of level great enough to admit of the conversion of clay into slate 
 on each occasion, while each interval was also marked by the out- 
 pouring of igneous rock ; or else that the slates were cracked in the 
 plane of their bedding, and the granite thrust through without disturbing 
 the dip.” The whole district is highly interesting on account of its 
 isolation and distance from the other igneous localities of England. 
 
 Next in order — and indeed resting on the western side of Charn- 
 wood — are the carboniferous deposits forming the coal basin of Leicester- 
 shire. This coalfield is divided by geologists into 3 districts, viz. 
 Moira on the W., Ashby-de-la-Zouch in the centre, and Coleorton 
 on the E. “ The central district is formed of Lower Coal Measures, 
 without workable coal, and is bounded on both sides by downcast faults 
 which introduce the workable coalbeds of Moira and Coleorton. The 
 coal-seams of these latter districts cannot be identified with each other, 
 though they are probably synchronous.” — Hull. Although bounded 
 on the E. by the Charnwood rocks, on the S. and W. they underlie 
 the New Red sandstone; and in the district of Coleorton (and par- 
 ticularly at Bagworth) there are some collieries sunk through the 
 Keuper marls of this formation, just as at Shireoaks. Indeed, at 
 Swannington, a valuable bed of coal was sunk to, through a great 
 mass of trap. Only in one place — viz. the northern side of the coal 
 basin — is the limestone seen to emerge, and even there is much inter- 
 rupted and distorted. The general thickness of the Middle Coal 
 Measures with 20 seams, of which 10 are workable, is about 1500 ft., 
 and, below them, 1000 ft. more of Lower and unproductive measures. 
 In the Moira district, which is remarkable for its salt-water reservoirs 
 (Rte. 22), is a seam of cannel coal 3 ft. 6 in. thick, beneath which is the 
 Main coal, 12 ft. thick. The latter, however, is only half this thickness in 
 the Coleorton district. Probably owing to its proximity to Charnwood, 
 this field is somewhat subject to igneous complications, for Mr. Hull 
 tells us that “ at Whitwick a remarkable bed of whinstone or green- 
 stone intervenes between the coal-measures and the New Red sandstone. 
 In one of the shafts at Whitwick Colliery it is 60 ft. thick, and has 
 turned to cinders a seam of coal with which it comes in contact. It 
 has evidently been poured out as a sheet of lava over the denuded sur- 
 face of the coal-measures at some period prior to that of the trias.” 
 
 The geological collector will find several varieties of coal-plants 
 amongst the shales, together with the fossil fruit known as Trigono- 
 carpurn. The Anthracosia shell is also plentiful, lie is recommended 
 to consult Mam mat's ‘ Geological Facts,’ a valuable monograph, though 
 somewhat out of date, treating principally of the Ashby coalfield. The 
 whole of the western portion of Leicestershire is occupied by the triassic 
 or New Red sandstone, the limit of which is pretty accurately defined 
 
Introd. I. Physical Features and Geology . xix 
 
 by a line running W. of, and parallel with, the main line of the Mid- 
 land Illy. The lias there covers it, being a continuation of the great 
 band of liassic strata that sweep from S.W. to N.E. through the 
 Midland counties. At Barrow-on-Soar there are large quarries for ob- 
 taining lias lime (Rte. 24), which the geologist should visit, many 
 splendid specimens of fishes and reptiles having been extracted from 
 these beds. Overlying this series again is the oolite, which is not seen 
 to any great extent in Leicestershire, save at the N.E., where it occupies 
 the range of hills at Bel voir. 
 
 Westward, the range of Charnwood declines, though the high and 
 broken ground of the Leicestershire coalfield fills up the district between 
 Coleorton, Ashby, Gresley, and Burton-on-Trent. These hills furnish 
 two small streams, which flow S. and S.W., watering a large district, 
 to fall into the Anker near Atherstone, this latter river joining the 
 Tame and ultimately finding its way into the Trent. The western 
 portion of the county is undulating, occasionally rising, as at Hinckley, 
 into considerable eminences; it is in this district that the Soar takes its 
 rise and flows through the centre of Leicestershire, receiving a large 
 number of tributaries, and after a course of 50 miles joining the Trent 
 near Trent Junction. 
 
 d. Staffordshire , although one of the most important English 
 counties, derives this importance more from its pre-eminence as a 
 manufacturing district than from its reputation for beauty. In this 
 respect, however, it is underrated, for, though fully one-half the shire 
 is disfigured with fire and smoke, the other half possesses its share of 
 picturesque sceneiy — scenery of that peculiarly diversified character 
 which is so common in our midland counties. Of mountains properly 
 so called there are none, and the only approach to them is found 
 in the north of the county; but, in default of these, there is an 
 extensive surface of high plateau-like ground, possessing the usual 
 features of lofty moorlands, the boundaries of which are marked by 
 broken and wooded escarpments overlooking luxuriant vales, watered 
 by broad rivers and ornamented with beautiful parks and groves. For 
 descriptive purposes, Staffordshire may be roughly divided into North 
 and South by a line -cutting it in half, the south portion being mainly 
 occupied by the South Staffordshire coal-field, which, next to that of 
 Newcastle, has been the longest worked and the most productive in Eng- 
 land. In shape it is something like an elongated and compressed pear, with 
 the exception that both ends are rather tapering. From the irregularity 
 of its boundaries it trenches somewhat on the south on the counties 
 of Warwick and Worcester, and it may be defined pretty exactly by a 
 line drawn from Rugeley to Cannock, Wolverhampton, Sedgley, Stour- 
 bridge, and Hagley Park on the west ; thence running south of Hales 
 Owen, and returning through Harbome, Oldbury, West Bromwich, 
 Great Barr, and Brownhilis, back to Rugeley. The surface of this district 
 is for the most part an undulating plateau, bounded externally by 
 ridges, such as the Bromsgrove Lickeyandthe Clent Hills on the south ; 
 on the west by the broken country of Shropshire ; whilst eastwards it 
 
xx i. Physical Features and Geology . Introd. 
 
 is surrounded by the New Red sandstone plain of Birmingham and the 
 districts watered by the Tame. Within itself, the coalfield occasionally 
 rises up into bold and commanding heights, such as the Rowley Hills, 
 an enormous mass of basalt to the S. of Dudley, “ forming a hill about 
 2 m. in length and 820 ft. in height* This basalt assumes the columnar 
 structure, affording examples of prisms as perfect as those from the 
 Giant's Causeway in Ireland. Mr. Jukes considers that this rock 
 has been poured out in the form of a lava-flow during the coal period, 
 for the beds of coal dip under the basalt, and have been followed till 
 found charred and utterly worthless.” — Hull. 
 
 To the N.W. of the Rowley Hills is the singular chain of Dudley 
 Castle Hid, the Wren’s Nest, and Sedgley Beacon, varying from 730 to 
 760 ft. in height. These eminences are of the very greatest interest 
 to the geologist as affording examples of an uprise of Upper Silurian 
 rocks through the coal-measures, while at the same time they are 
 instructive specimens of denudation. In fact, the whole of these coal- 
 measures repose directly on the Silurian rocks without the usual inter- 
 vention of carboniferous limestone and Old Red sandstone — a fact which 
 is accounted for by Mr. Jukes by supposing that, while the carboniferous 
 rocks were being deposited, all this district was dry land, so that the 
 coal-beds were deposited directly on the Silurian. The strata at Dudley 
 and Wren’s Nest are of Wenlock limestone and shale, and afford magni- 
 ficent supplies of Silurian fossils. 
 
 The next high ground of any note is that of Barr, extending from 
 Walsall to Barr Beacon, which is also composed of Wenlock limestone 
 and which commands a splendid panoramic view. To the Barr plateau 
 succeed the swelling moorlands of Cannock Chase, which; brown and 
 barren as they are on the [surface, contain inexhaustible mineral riches 
 beneath. The greater portion of this extent of country is unattractive 
 and monotonous, but the eastern and northern escarpments which over- 
 look on the S*E. the distant valley of the Tame, and on the N. and 
 N.E. the more beautiful Yale of Trent, are broken and romantic, and 
 offer in the neighbourhood of Armitage, Rugeley, and Colwich, scenery 
 of a pleasing description. It is singular that, while this large extent 
 of country, so full of hills and rising grounds, is environed on all sides 
 by rivers, such as the Rea, Trent, Sow, Penk, and Smestow, scarce a 
 single stream, and not one of any note except the Tame, rises within it. 
 
 The coal-basin proper “ appears to have been upheaved bodily along 
 two great lines of fracture, which range in approximately parallel 
 directions from north to south,” and is terribly broken up by faults. 
 The following is the succession of strata according to Professor J ukes : — 
 
 Triassic — Bun ter Sandstone *. Upper mottled sandstone, 
 
 conglomerate beds, lower 
 
 mottled sandstone .. .. 1200 ft. 
 
 Permian •• •• •• •• »• Breccia of felstone, por- 
 
 phyry, and Silurian rocks; 
 red marls, sandstone, and 
 calcareous conglomerate .. 1000 to 3000 ft 
 
Introd. 
 
 i. Physical Features and Geology, 
 
 xxi 
 
 Upper coal-measures 
 
 Red and mottled clays, red 
 •and grey sandstone, and 
 gravels .. 
 
 1. Brooch coal. 
 
 2. Thick coal. 
 
 3. Heathen coal. 
 
 4. New Mine coal. 
 
 5. Furlong coal. 
 
 6. Bottom coal. 
 
 With ironstone and other 
 strata 
 
 800 ft. 
 
 Middle coal-measures 
 
 510 ft. 
 
 The workable coal in the neighbourhood is exceedingly thick, about 
 <35 ft. ; of which the well-known ten-yard or thick coal is nearly one-half. 
 This seam has been, and still is, the great source of South Staffordshire 
 wealth, but, from overworking and excessive waste, it is in a fair way to 
 become exhausted altogether. At Bentley there is a great fault, to the 
 north of which this seam becomes divided and split up into nine smaller 
 ones, separated from each other by a considerable thickness of sandstones 
 and shales. To the north of the Cannock district some of the pits are 
 worked through the New Bed sandstone, the dip of the coal-beds being 
 from east to west. To the E. of the coal-field is a large district of New Bed 
 sandstone occupied by the valley of the Tame, which rises in the high 
 ground near Essington, and flows S.E. past Perry and Aston, when it 
 enters Warwickshire, and receives the Bea, Blyth, and Cole. Near 
 Drayton Bassett it forms the boundary between Stafford and Leicester- 
 shires, and continues to do so until it joins the Trent at Aire was, its 
 course throughout the whole distance being through a pleasant undulating 
 country, full of quiet English beauty. To the west of the coal-field the 
 country is more broken as it approaches the high grounds of Shropshire. 
 The scenery in the neighbourhood of the Smestow, and to the west of 
 Wolverhampton, where the Penk takes its rise, is characterised by 
 wooded chains of hills, of no great height, but of very pleasing diversity. 
 
 By far the most picturesque portion of Staffordshire lies in the 
 northern division, although that is now greatly affected by the progress 
 of the manufactures that have arisen in the North Staffordshire coal- 
 field and the Potteries. Eastward of the Trent, which forms a marked 
 line running from N.W. to S.E., the country is very pleasant, and 
 is principally occupied by the high ground of Needwood Forest, which 
 fills up the triangle formed by the North Staffordshire Bly. (from Stoke 
 to Burton) and the Trent in its meandering course to the point where 
 it enters Derbyshire. This district, though high and exposed, has 
 been finely wooded, and, though now possessing the name only of 
 forest, still shows some exquisite examples of coppice, wood, and 
 warren, alternating with fine old parks and quiet villages with 
 venerable church-towers. To the west of the Trent, between it and 
 the North-Western Bly., the country is more monotonous, though still 
 somewhat elevated and undulating, and this feature continues all 
 through the vales of the Sow and the Meese, as far as the Shropshire 
 
xxii l Physical Features and Geology . Introcl. 
 
 border, no hills of any size occurring to break the line. But between 
 Stone and Stoke the Trent runs through one of the most pleasant 
 parts of its career, between the wooded hills of Barlaston and Tit tensor, 
 and near the lordly gardens of Trentham. The North Staffordshire 
 Rly. from Burton to Crewe introduces the tourist to scenery of a very 
 different order, in which the luxuriance and beauty of the south are 
 exchanged for the picturesque moorlands and hills of millstone-grit, and 
 the still more abrupt and romantic limestone cliffs. 
 
 The whole of the country between Newcastle and Macclesfield shows 
 those gradations from the ridges of the North Staffordshire coal-basin 
 to the more wild and rugged district between New Chapel and Bid- 
 dulph which culminate in the ridge of Mow Cop, and in Axe Edge, 
 which here forms the watershed of England. The district between 
 Biddulph and the Churnet valley, where the coal-measure grits give 
 place to the limestone, is broken and characteristic, though it is not 
 equal to the romantic scenery of the Churnet valley, such as at Alton 
 Towers and Cheddleton. Farther northward, beyond Leek, the county 
 becomes almost mountainous; and the Roaches, running from N- to 
 S., are some of the most picturesque hills in England. Eastward of 
 these rises a vast moorland plateau, its long westward escarpment 
 being known as Morridge (i. e. Moor Edge), while to the S. it terminates 
 in Cauldon Low and the Weever range. This plateau is deeply indented 
 by the gullies and waterways of some of the most beautiful streams in 
 England, such as the Hamps, Manifold, and Dove, which give to the 
 district a picturesque character fully rivalling Derbyshire itself. 
 
 The North Staffordshire coal-field, though much smaller than that 
 of South Staffordshire, possesses more resources, the thickness of the 
 seams being about twice as great, and it not being affected by any of 
 those faults which interfere so seriously with the coals of the latter 
 basin, and frequently extinguish them altogether. In addition to many 
 valuable beds of ironstone, the workable coal-seams are 22 in number, 
 making 100 ft. of coal. “ This coal-field has the shape of a triangle, 
 with its apex to the north at the base of Congleton Edge. The eastern 
 side is formed of millstone grit, and the western of new red sandstone or 
 Permian strata.” 
 
 The following brief table of geological localities in the four counties, 
 and their produce, may be of use to the brethren of the hammer. 
 
 Derby shire. 
 
 ASHFORD. — Carb. limestone: Phillipsia, Syringopora, Pinna flabelliformis, Spirifer 
 acutus, Actinocrinus, Lithostrotion, &c. 
 
 Bak ewell. — Carb. limestone : Platycrinus, Strom bodes, ProductuS aculeatus, 
 Pentremites, Cyathophyllum, &c. 
 
 DovedaLE. — Carb. limestone. 
 
 Matlock. — Carb. limestone : rocks very full of typical fossils. 
 
 KiNDERSCOUT. — Travertine deposit on millstone-grit. 
 
 Castleton and Cavedale abound in Phillipsia, also Pleurorhynchus and Cyclas. 
 ruAYCLiFF. — Blue John mines. The beds here contain Phillipsia pustulata and 
 Spirifer imbricatus. 
 
Introd. 
 
 ii. Communications, 
 
 xxm 
 
 Mam Tor. — Goniatites expansa, Bellerophon. 
 
 Derwent Valley. — Rock basins, Salt-cellars, Cakes of Bread. 
 
 Staveley. — Coal-fishes ; Platysomus, Palaeoniscus. 
 
 Clay-Cross. — Coal-measures, plants, Anthracosia. 
 
 Butterley. — Ditto. 
 
 Bolsover. — Magnesian limestone quarries. 
 
 Chellaston. — Plaster-pits, in Keuper clay, contain Foraminifera, Cythere, &c. 
 
 Nottinghamshire, 
 
 New Red Sandstone caves at Nottingham, Sneinton, and Papplewick. 
 
 New Red Sandstone eliffs, overhanging the Trent between Nottingham and Newark. 
 Magnesian limestone quarries at Mansfield Woodhouse. 
 
 Shireoaks Colliery. — P ermian beds. 
 
 Muskham, near Newark, where human remains have been found in the valley of 
 the Trent. 
 
 Leicestershire . 
 
 Charnwood Forest. — Slates and syenites. 
 
 Coleorton Coal-field. — Whitwick greenstone. 
 
 Moira Coal-field. — Bath Colliery. 
 
 Lias of Barrow-on-Soar, where the following Saurians have been found: 
 Cosmolepis Egertoni, Lepidotus serrulatus, Pholidophorus, Ptycholepis minor, 
 Ichthyosaurus communis, I. intermedius, I. tenuirostris. 
 
 Redmile, near Croxton. — Lias fossils. 
 
 Staffordshire. 
 
 Dudley. — Upper Silurian — an inexhaustible supply of typical fossils, including 
 Terebratula, Euomphalus, Orthoceras, Bellerophon, Phacops, Calymene Blu- 
 menbachii, Cyathocrinus, Cyathophyllum, &c. 
 
 Rowley Hills. — Columnar basalt of Rowley Rag. 
 
 Astbury, at west foot of Mow Cop. Carboniferous limestone, abounding in fossils. 
 Wetton Hill. — Ditto. 
 
 Newcastle-under-Lyme. — Coal-measures. Plants abundant. 
 
 Apedale. — Coal-measures. Fish abundant. Palseoniscus Amblypterus, Rhizo- 
 dus, &c. 
 
 Fenton. — Coal-measures. Ditto. 
 
 Needwood. — Drift, chalk flints, and Ananchytes are common. 
 
 Froghall. — Haematite in limestone. 
 
 Axe Edge and Mow Cop. — Millstone-grit. 
 
 Waterhouses. — Limestone quarries. Mammoth remains. 
 
 South Staffordshire. — C oal-measures abound in fish and plants. 
 
 II. Communications. 
 
 a. Derbyshire is well supplied with railways and canals. The great 
 artery of the Midland Company runs through it from Burton to Derby, 
 Clay Cross, Chesterfield, and Sheffield, sending off branches — 1. from 
 Derby to Nottingham, Newark, and Lincoln ; 2. from Ambergate to 
 Buxton ; 3. from Trent Junction to Derby ; 4. from Derby to Melbourne ; 
 5. from Derby to Kipley ; 6. from Duffield to Wirksworth. From the 
 Derby and Nottingham line the Erewash Valley branch runs to 
 Ilkeston, Alfreton, and Clay Cross, principally for the accommodation 
 of the mineral districts of Clay Cross, Codnor Park, and Butterley. 
 Between Buxton and Stockport the London and North-Western Railway 
 accommodates the county, and competes for the traffic to Manchester 
 
XXIV 
 
 n. Communications. 
 
 Introd. 
 
 with the Midland line, the latter company, however, having an inde- 
 pendent entry into the Manchester district through Chapel-en-le-Frith, 
 Hayfield, and New Mills. The W. and S.W. portions of Derbyshire 
 are served by the North Staffordshire Company, their line at Uttoxeter 
 giving off a branch to Ashbourne. The Manchester, Sheffield, and 
 Lincolnshire line skirts the northern boundary, and has a branch to 
 Glossop. In addition to these passenger railways, the colliery and 
 ironwork districts are amply supplied with local lines for the accom- 
 modation of their traffic. Among these, the only one calling for atten- 
 tion is the High Peak Railway, which, as lately as the time of George 
 IV., was the only means of inland traffic in Derbyshire. It commences 
 at the Cromford Canal, near Cromford, and takes a most circuitous 
 route, near, though not close to, Wirksworth and Hartington, and past 
 Buxton to Whaley Bridge. It is leased to the London and North- 
 Western Railway, and is worked by locomotives, but is only used for 
 the carriage of coal, lime, &c. The principal canals are — 
 
 1. The Grand Trunk, which commences at Wilne Ferry, at the 
 junction of the Derwent with the Trent, and runs thence into Stafford- 
 shire and Cheshire to connect the Trent with the Mersey. 
 
 2. The Derby Canal, which runs in a tolerably direct line from 
 Derby to the Grand Trunk at Swarkestone, with a branch to the Ere- 
 wash Canal at Sandiacre. 
 
 3. The Erewash Canal runs from the Trent up the Erewash Valley to join 
 
 4. The Cromford Canal, which commences at Codnor and (sending off 
 a branch to Pinxton) flows to Ambergate and Cromford. The Erewash 
 Canal has also a branch, called the Nutbrook Canal. 
 
 5. The Chesterfield Canal, from Chesterfield up the valley of the 
 Rother, passes through East Retford, and eventually joins the Trent at 
 Gainsborough. 
 
 B. The Communications of Nottinghamshire are principally supplied 
 by the Midland Rly. Company, whose main line from Derby to Notting- 
 ham, Newark, and Lincoln, follows the valley of the Trent the whole 
 way, sending off branches to the Erewash valley, which is partly 
 in Derbyshire ; and 2 branches to Mansfield, (a) by a direct line from 
 Nottingham, to accommodate the populous manufacturing villages 
 to the N.W.; and ( h ) by a branch through Southwell, now (1874) 
 in course of continuation to Worksop and Chesterfield. In addition 
 to these, the Great Northern Rly. runs lengthwise through Nottingham- 
 shire, from Bawtry to East Retford and Newark, on its way to 
 Grantham and London, sending off from Grantham a branch to Not- 
 tingham through Bingham. The northern districts, which are agricul- 
 tural and comparatively thinly populated, are served by the Manchester, 
 Sheffield, and Lincolnshire Rly. from Sheffield to Retford, Gains- 
 borough, Grimsby, &c. 
 
 The water navigation, owing to the breadth and depth of the rivers, 
 is well develojxid ; the Trent being navigable for river craft all through 
 the county, and the Idle from Eas t Retford. The Grantham Canal, com- 
 mencing at Nottingham, connects the Trent with the Witham at 
 Grantham, sending off a branch to Bingham. 
 
Introd. 
 
 ii. Communications . 
 
 xxv 
 
 These two rivers are again connected near Retford by means of a canal 
 called the Foss Dyke, thus giving water-way to Lincoln and the Wash. 
 
 The Chesterfield Canal crosses the county on the N., passing Worksop 
 and Retford, and also joins the Trent. The Nottingham Canal con- 
 nects that town with the Erewash Canal at Langley Bridge. Thus 
 by means of the Trent, Nottingham is brought into immediate connec- 
 tion with the whole of the canal systems of England. 
 
 c. Leicestershire is furnished with railway communications mainly 
 by the Midland Company, which nearly monopolises the East Midland 
 districts. Its main line from London runs through the centre of the 
 county, entering it at Market Harborough and leaving it near Lough- 
 borough, although it skirts the Nottinghamshire border for some dis- 
 tance farther. The Rugby branch, forming what was originally known 
 as the Midland Counties Rly., enters near Lutterworth and falls into 
 the main line at South Wigston Stat., from whence also diverges the 
 South Leicestershire line to Hinckley, Nuneaton, and Birmingham. 
 Through the north-east portion of the county runs the Leicester and 
 Peterborough Rly., branching off from the main line at Syston 
 Junction. This supplies all the district at the foot of the Wolds, but 
 a large area in the E., consisting wholly of agricultural population, is as 
 yet unprovided with railway accommodation; a deficiency that the 
 Saxelby and Nottingham line (now in course of construction) 'will 
 remedy. The colliery districts to the N.W. of Leicester are served by 
 the Leicester and Burton Rly., formerly known as the Leicester and 
 Swannington Rly. ; and mineral lines (which have also some passenger 
 traffic) connect Ashby-de-la-Zouch, Coalville, and Nuneaton. The 
 London and North-Western Company only skirts the southern border, 
 in the course of its branch from Rugby to Market Harborough. 
 
 Two principal canals furnish waterway: the one, the Union and 
 Grand Union, flowing S. from Leicester to join the Grand Junction 
 Canal ; the other from Ashby-de-la-Zouch to Hinckley, where it soon 
 enters Warwickshire and joins the Coventry Canal. By these means 
 the Soar and Trent, which are made navigable in the northern parts of 
 the county, are connected with the water-system in the south. 
 
 d. Staffordshire . — The communications of this county are more 
 numerous than in any county in England except Lancashire, owing to 
 the large extent occupied by iron- works and collieries, and the enormous 
 population dependent thereupon. 
 
 1. The London and North-Western Rly. enters the county at Soho, 
 and runs through its whole length, leaving it near Madeley, and accom- 
 modating the towns of Oldbury, Bilston, Wolverhampton, Walsall, Dar- 
 laston, Willenhall, Penkridge, and Stafford. The Trent Valley line, 
 belonging to the same company, enters at Tamworth, and runs past 
 Lichfield, Colwich, and Rugeley to Stafford, where it joins the Birming- 
 ham and. Wolverhampton line. The district between Stafford and 
 Shrewsbury is served by the Shropshire Union Rly., while a short branch 
 is given off from Norton Bridge to Stone, there to join the North Staf- 
 fordshire Rly. 
 
 [Derby, Notts , Leic., & Staff.] ' h 
 
XXVI 
 
 ii. Communications . 
 
 Introd. 
 
 2. The Great Western Company have a line from Birmingham to 
 Wolverhampton, Wellington, and Shrewsbury, thus connecting the 
 South Stafford and Shropshire coal-fields. The same company has 
 a rly. from Worcester, which enters Staffordshire at Stourbridge, and, 
 after throwing off a branch to Cradley and Birmingham, runs to 
 Dudley, Bilston, and Wolverhampton. 
 
 3. The Stour Valley line connects Birmingham with Wolverhampton, 
 and is really the main line of communication used by the London and 
 North-Western Company, whose original Grand Junction line by Aston 
 and Perry Barr to Bushbury Junction is used more for local purposes. 
 
 4. The Midland Illy, enters the county at Tam worth, and runs down 
 the valley of the Trent to Burton and Derby. 
 
 5. The South Staffordshire Illy, commences at Dudley, and takes a 
 N.E. course through it, accommodating the coal districts of Walsall 
 and Cannock Chase. It then passes by Lichfield, and joins the Midland 
 at Wichnor. A branch is given off near Walsall to Cannock and Buge- 
 ley, there joining the London and North-Western line. 
 
 6. The North Staffordshire Company provides for the manufacturing 
 districts by a variety of branches. The main line runs from Crewe to 
 Burslem, Stoke, Uttoxeter, Tutbury, and Derby, with a short branch 
 from Tutbury to Burton. Another important part of this system is 
 from Marple and Macclesfield toCongleton, Harecastle, Stoke, Stone, and 
 Colwich, by which a through route is gained from Manchester to London 
 via the Potteries. Newcastle-under-Lyme is accommodated by a sepa- 
 rate branchy which extends to Market Drayton, as are also the colliery 
 district between Stoke and Biddulph, and the silk district of Leek. The 
 railway system in Staffordshire is somewhat intricate, but there are few 
 towns in England which can boast of so many ways of access, most of 
 them being served by at least two independent companies. 
 
 Staffordshire is well off for water-way, being traversed throughout the 
 whole of its length by the Grand Trunk Canal, which unites the Mersey 
 and the Trent, and was one of Brindley’s favourite undertakings. It 
 enters the county near Harecastle, and accompanies the Trent more 
 or less closely throughout the whole of its course. At Etruria it is 
 joined by the Caldon Canal, which takes a very winding route through 
 Endon to Cheddleton and Froghall, so as to bring the Churnet valley 
 limestones and haunatites to the iron-works of North Staffordshire. 
 The Coventry Canal enters at Fazeley, and joins the Grand Trunk 
 near Aire was, as does also the Wyrley and Essington Canal. This 
 is carried past Lichfield into the Cannock Chase district, where it meets 
 with sundry others, such as the Daw End and the Fazeley canals. 
 These, together with the Birmingham and the Staffordshire and 
 Worcestershire, interlace with each other, and send off branches to every 
 iron-work of importance, a very large proportion of the Staffordshire 
 coal trade being carried on by barges. The western parts of the county 
 are accommodated by the latter canal, and that of the Liverpool and 
 Birmingham Company. 
 
Introd. 
 
 hi. Industrial Besources. 
 
 XXV11 
 
 III. Industrial Resources. 
 
 a. Agriculture. — The tourist cannot he long in Derbyshire without 
 seeing that agriculture is not its chief mainstay. In fact, nearly 
 seven-tenths of the county is occupied by mineral districts or hills, 
 many of which, on the limestone, possess good herbage for pasture, 
 while those of the millstone-grit are coarse and heathery. “ A large 
 proportion of the land is in permanent pastures, of which some are- 
 very rich. To the north of the enclosed land a traveller may proceed 
 for miles without seeing an acre of arable land, there being nothing 
 but a continuation of pasture both upon the hills and in the valleys. 
 In this district scarcely any of the farms have more than 3 or 4 acres of 
 arable land attached to them, and many have none whatever. Derby- 
 shire cheese is noted as of a good quality, and the best is often sold for 
 Cheshire or Gloucester, when made of the shape and colour of these 
 cheeses. The common Derbyshire cheese is not generally coloured ; it 
 resembles some kinds of Dutch cheese and keeps well.” — Knight . 
 
 The most productive districts are naturally the alluvial valleys of the 
 rivers, as the Trent and the lower portion of the Dove, which occasion- 
 ally overflow their banks and exercise a fertilizing influence. About 
 the latter river there is a local saying : — - 
 
 “ In April Dove’s flood 
 Is worth a king’s good.” (i. e . ransom.)- 
 
 “ This river will swell so much in twelve hours’ time that, to the 
 great terrour of the inhabitants thereabouts, it will wash off sheep and 
 cattel, and carry them along with it ; yet falls again within the same 
 time and returns to its old bounds : whereas the Trent, being once over 
 the banks, keeps the fields in float four or five days together.” — Camden . 
 
 Minerals are plentiful in the county, and (including the coal-basin) 
 furnish employment to a very large number of the inhabitants. They 
 consist of — 
 
 Lead , which is found abundantly in the mountain-limestone dis- 
 tricts, and occasionally in the toadstone between the limestone layers. 
 “ The veins which contain lead have generally a direction E. and W. ; 
 some of them approach the perpendicular (rake-veins), others are nearly 
 horizontal (pipe-veins), and are rather beds of spar and ore, lying 
 between the limestone strata, and in most cases connected with the 
 surface by a like vein.” — Knight . The term “ rake ” is applied to beds 
 of iron-ore as well as lead. Castleton (Rte. 8) is the great centre 
 of the lead-mining districts, as are also Matlock and Wirksworth farther 
 S. (Etes. 4, 5). The former place is also celebrated for the “Blue 
 John,” or fluor spar, which is found in one particular cavern associated 
 with the lead-mining, and is greatly sought after for the purpose of 
 fashioning into ornaments, such as vases, &c. In the year 1871 the 
 amount of lead-ore raised in Derbyshire, from 61 mines, was 6174 tons, 
 producing 4641 tons of lead and 1000 oz. of silver. Zinc-ore was also 
 
ixriii 
 
 m. Industrial Resources . 
 
 Introd. 
 
 raised to the amount of 57 tons, of the value of 228?. 2189 tons of 
 barytes, valued at 1365?. 10s., were procured from 17 mines. 
 
 Coal and Ironstone. — There were 94 furnaces in blast, principally at 
 Codnor Park, Butterley, Staveley, and Clay Cross, which, in 1871, 
 made 270,485 tons of pig-iron. The amount of iron ore raised from 
 the coal-measures was 295,782 tons, almost entirely consisting of argil- 
 laceous carbonates and peroxide of iron. The number of collieries in 
 the county of Derby are 130, from which nearly 5,000,000 tons are 
 annually raised. — Hunt's Mineral Statistics . 
 
 Textile Manufactures. — It is a singular fact that the first silk-mill 
 ever erected in England was at Derby, and the first cotton- mill at 
 Cromford. “ Whatever may be the long-existing claims of Spitalfields 
 upon our attention ; whatever Macclesfield, Leek, and Congleton 
 may present to us as the centre of a district where the silk manufacture 
 prevails ; whatever Manchester, with her mighty engines and factories, 
 can exhibit in relation to the modem mode of conducting this branch 
 of industry; Derby is the place where the responsibility, anxiety, and 
 risk of originally establishing the manufacture was felt.” — Land we Live 
 in. The circumstances connected with the foundation of the silk-trade 
 are detailed in Rte. 1. At Darley, near Derby, are the “ Boar’s Head ” 
 mills of Messrs. Evans, where the cotton thread bearing that appellation 
 is made in very large quantities. 
 
 The manufacture of silk hosiery is extensively carried on at Belper ; 
 and most of the surrounding villages, particularly to the N., and on the E. 
 towards Nottinghamshire, resound with the clack of the weaver’s shuttle. 
 
 B. Although a large portion of Nottinghamshire is devoted to 
 farming, the eounty is better known for its manufactures than 
 for its agriculture. A good deal of the land is poor and clayey, 
 especially on the eastern portion, although there are some rich 
 valleys, particularly along the Soar, which are devoted to dairies. 
 A considerable portion of the population finds employment in the 
 quarries, of which there are many in Nottinghamshire. Those of 
 Mansfield and Mansfield] Woodhouse, in particular, are celebrated as 
 having supplied the stone from which the frontage of the Houses of 
 Parliament was built, also the terrace in Trafalgar-square, a portion of 
 Southwell Minster, the Martyrs’ Memorial at Oxford, &c. Yet the county, 
 teeming as it does with a population so largely dependent on one branch of 
 trade — viz. lace and bobbin-net — does not possess the same aspect as the 
 manufacturing cotton and clothing districts, and this principally arises 
 from the nature of the occupation, which does not require the factory 
 system to such a great extent, and allows of the employment being 
 carried on at home. Owing to the former surrounding of the town 
 of Nottingham by Lammas land, the trade, instead of being confined to 
 one overgrown city, has spread into a number of adjoining towns and 
 villages, which depend upon Nottingham as their metropolis. In 1768 
 net was first made by machinery, but the invention of bobbin-net dates 
 from 1809, and is owing to one Heathcote, the sou of a farmer at Long 
 
Introd. 
 
 in. Industrial Resources. 
 
 xxix 
 
 Whatton, near Leicester. It obtained its name because the threads 
 are wound upon bobbins, and may be defined as 4 ‘twisted” instead 
 of “ looped ” net. The trade, however, received a serious check 
 from the Luddites, who destroyed Heathcote’s machinery to the 
 value of 8000 1., which so disgusted him that he retired forthwith to 
 Tiverton, in Devonshire. The quality of bobbin-net depends on the 
 smallness of the meshes, their equality in size, and the regularity of the 
 hexagons. Up to 1831 scarcely anything more than plain net and 
 quilling was obtained by the bobbin-net machine. But about that time 
 many improvements were introduced, such as spotting lace while mak- 
 ing it on the circular machine, succeeded by spotting it on the traverse 
 warp machine. The great revolution, however, was effected in 1835, 
 when the Jacquard system was applied to the bobbin-net machine. 
 This invention is usually assigned to Hammond, a stocking-frame 
 knitter, of Nottingham, who, examining one day the broad lace of his 
 wife’s cap, thought he could make his machine produce it. In trying, 
 he produced, not lace, but a kind of knitting of running loops or 
 stitches known as “ Brussels ground.” 
 
 In 1777 Else and Harvey introduced, at Nottingham, the “pin” 
 or point-net machine, so named because made on sharp pins or points. 
 “Point net” was afterwards improved, and the “barleycorn” intro- 
 duced, soon succeeded by “ square” and “ spider” net. But with all 
 these improvements machinery had not yet arrived at producing a solid 
 net : it was still only knitting, a single thread passing from one end of 
 the frame to another, and if a thread broke the work was unravelled. 
 The threads therefore required to be gummed together to give stiffness 
 and solidity to the net. To remedy this evil the “ warp ” or “ chain” 
 machine was invented, linking the weaving and knitting mechanism. — 
 PaJliser on Lace. 
 
 Probably no branch of textile manufacture passes through so many 
 processes as net ; for after it is actually made it has to be “ gassed, ” by 
 which it is passed over gas-flames, so as to divest it, without singeing, of 
 the little hairy filaments. Bleaching, of course, improves the colour. 
 The subsequent parts, such as seaming, mending, embroidering, pearling, 
 drawing, dressing, and finishing, are usually done by females in their 
 own homes. “ In lace-running, the lace is stretched across a frame, and 
 the workwoman works a pattern upon it with a needle and thread ; in 
 c tambouring,’ the pattern is wrought with a small hook instead of a 
 needle ; in 4 lace-mending,’ every defective mesh, whether so produced in 
 the machine or by subsequent accident, is mended by needle and thread ; 
 in 4 lace-pearling,’ a lace edging is sewn on to finished articles of net ; in 
 4 lace-drawing,’ a thread is drawn out which connects the individual 
 breadths in one broad piece of net for the machine, so as to separate 
 the net into the breadths required for use or sale.” — Land we live in. 
 
 Lace and hosiery are the great trades of Nottingham, and they were 
 estimated, in 1868, to employ 200,000 workpeople, the total value of 
 the goods manufactured being 8,000,000Z. annually. 
 
 The following statistics, from the latest Post Office Directory, may be 
 
XXX 
 
 hi. Industrial Resources . Tntrod. 
 
 interesting as showing the number of firms engaged in the hosiery, lace, 
 and silk trades : — 
 
 Bleachers 16 
 
 Bobbin-makers 16 
 
 Cotton-doublers 9 
 
 „ spinners 6 
 
 Designers 12 
 
 Draughtsmen 8 
 
 Dyers 55 
 
 Embosser 1 
 
 Frame-smiths 45 
 
 Framework-knitters 51 
 
 Hosiery manufacturers .. .. 74 
 
 Lace dealers 11 
 
 „ designers 17 
 
 „ diessers 23 
 
 „ manufacturers 361 
 
 Tatting lace 8 
 
 Lace mender 1 
 
 „ merchants 10 
 
 ,, souffleur 1 
 
 „ thread-doubler 1 
 
 „ „ manufacturers .. .. 9 
 
 Machine-holders 7 
 
 Machinists 51 
 
 Silk merchants 13 
 
 „ preparer 1 
 
 „ spinners 2 
 
 „ throwsters 9 
 
 „ winders 3 
 
 „ warpers 8 
 
 Total 829 
 
 Coal . — Nottinghamshire possesses 27 collieries, yielding, in 1871, 
 2,469,400 tons. 
 
 c. The agricultural resources of Leicestershire are far greater than those 
 of the two former counties, the larger portion of it being devoted 
 to grazing — the breed of cattle and sheep known by the name of 
 Leicesters having a wide-spread reputation. As might be expected, too, 
 from its pre-eminence as a hunting county, a great number of valuable 
 horses are bred. The river valleys are noted for their cheese- 
 dairies, the neighbourhood of Melton taking the first place with its 
 Stiltons. Of arable land there is a fair share. The county was at one 
 time famous for its supplies of beans, as may be seen in the names of 
 some of its villages, such as Barton -in -the- Beans, &c. ; and it used to be 
 an old saying amongst the neighbouring counties, “ Shake a Leicester- 
 shire man by the collar, and you shall hear the beans rattle in his inside.” 
 A large number of the inhabitants in the north-west of the county arc 
 employed in its collieries, of which there are twelve. They yielded 
 in 1871, 699,900 tons. Others again find employment in the lias 
 lime- works of Barrow, those of the mountain limestone at Breedon, 
 as also in the granite-quarries in the neighbourhood of Cham wood 
 Forest, and particularly those of Mount Sorrel, of which 20,000 tons 
 are annually sent to London and used for paving and macadamizing. 
 Mingled with the agricultural element is the manufacturing one to 
 a very large extent, and there are few villages within a radius of twenty 
 miles of Leicester, Harborough, Loughborough, Hinckley, and Lutter- 
 worth but what are mainly occupied with framework-knitting. The 
 medium of communication generally between the framework-knitters 
 in the villages and the masters in Leicester is the bagman, who very 
 often trades on his own account, and takes the produce of the knitters 
 into Leicester on market-day. There is even less of the factory system 
 in Leicestershire than Nottinghamshire — the workpeople disliking 
 to change their old routine, and the system of doing business not re- 
 
Introd. 
 
 in. Industrial Resources. 
 
 xxxi 
 
 quiring it. If Derbyshire is famous for its silk, and Nottinghamshire 
 for its lace, Leicestershire is not less celebrated for its hosiery generally, 
 and its stockings in particular — the stocking-loom having been invented 
 by the Rev. William Lee (Rte. 11). After his failure and retreat 
 abroad the stocking-making was commenced in Leicester in 1680 by 
 one Alsop, and since that time it has firmly taken root here. A 
 curious feature in the stocking-weaving trade is the employment of the 
 frames as an independent article of commerce, the value of them being 
 according to the width and gauge, costing when new from 15Z. to 50Z. 
 The leading manufacturers may own, as they generally do, a very 
 large quantity of frames, which they let out to the workmen at a fixed 
 rent; or they may be the property of people who have no con- 
 nection with the trade, but simply speculate in the letting out of 
 machines, just as they would a horse or any other thing, these latter 
 being called “ independent ” frames, and the rental varying from 8 d. to 
 3s. a week. “At present in Leicester and the villages in this county 
 about 10,000 frames are employed in the manufacture of stockings, 
 shirts, drawers, socks, and caps ; about 2000 on gloves and mitts ; and 
 750 machines in the production of fancy hosiery, by which is meant 
 the manufacture of cravats, shawls, scarfs, dresses for children, muffs 
 and boots for infants, garters, braces, and other similar articles. Many 
 of these are knitted by women and children in villages in this and the 
 neighbouring counties, but the greater part are made by machinery in 
 Leicester. The sewing or seaming of the articles made by machinery 
 furnishes employment for a large number of hands. In this branch 
 there are now worked about 500 stocking-frames, which have been 
 adapted for making the above articles by various alterations they have 
 undergone, and the inventions that have been applied to them, about 
 150 warp-looms, and 100 grinders.” — Thompson. The 4 Post-Office Direc- 
 tory’ shows that, as regards the statistics of the trade, there are in 
 Leicestershire 
 
 Elastic web makers 19 
 
 „ merchant 1 
 
 Frame-smiths 41 
 
 Frame-work knitters 19 
 
 Hosiery -makers . . , 143 
 
 „ dresser 1 
 
 „ trimmers 4 
 
 Machinists 21 
 
 Sewing-cotton makers 5 
 
 Stocking-makers 7 
 
 Woolstapiers and spinners 31 
 
 Worsted-spinners .. 17 
 
 309 
 
 d. The industrial resources of Staffordshire are principally centred in 
 iron and coal, and in all those numerous branches of manufactures 
 which are sure to be congregated together where those minerals abound. 
 
XXX11 
 
 m. Industrial Resources. 
 
 Introd. 
 
 a. Coal. — It appears from the last report on Mineral Statistics, that 
 the whole of the county is included in two districts, the number of 
 collieries in the southern portion being, in 1871, 465, and in the north 
 111, making a total of 576 — a much larger number than is found in any 
 other coal-basin in England, though the yield of coal is twice as great 
 in Northumberland and Durham. The tourist will observe how close 
 together the colliery engines lie upon the ground, and this is accounted 
 for by the fact that most of them are working the ten-yard coal, the 
 great thickness of which makes it so valuable that coal properties 
 working this seam are very limited in acreage. The following are the 
 statistics of the consumption and distribution of coal from the Stafford- 
 shire collieries in 1871 : — 
 
 South Staffordshire. 
 
 Tons. 
 
 Coal used in iron-works 3,585,750 
 
 „ other manufactures 1,500,000 
 
 Domestic consumption 1,875,500 
 
 Colliery consumption and allowance coal .. 1,350,000 
 
 Total used in district 8,311,250 
 
 Sent out of district by railway and canal .. 1,720,000 
 
 Total produce of South Staffordshire .. 10,031,250 
 
 North Staffordshire. 
 
 Tons. 
 
 Coal used in iron-works 1,825,000 
 
 „ potteries and brick- works .. 765,000 
 
 „ other manufactures . . .. .. 525,951 
 
 Sent out of district by railway anil canal . . 598,805 
 
 Domestic consumption 505,244 
 
 Colliery consumption 30,000 
 
 Total produce of North Staffordshire.. .. 4,250,000 
 
 b. Iron . — For very many years Staffordshire held the pre-eminence 
 in the iron trade, and dictated prices to all the world. But of late this 
 pre-eminence has given way to the superior advantages of other iron- 
 making districts, such as Cleveland and South Wales. This arises 
 partly from the comparative exhaustion of Staffordshire iron-ores and 
 the necessary dependence upon the importation of foreign ores, partly 
 from the wasteful working of the coal, which is becoming much more 
 scanty and difficult to get, and partly from the ruinous system of strikes 
 and trade unions, which have become so associated with the Staffordshire 
 iron trade. 
 
 In North Staffordshire, in 1871, there were 35 furnaces, and in South 
 Staffordshire 108 in blast, which yielded 994,016 tons of pig iron. There 
 are also in the two districts 2466 puddling furnaces, which turn out a 
 vast amount of manufactured iron, in which this district has always stood 
 foremost. These depend principally upon the native iron-ores, which 
 
Introd. 
 
 in. Industrial Resources . 
 
 XXXlll 
 
 consist of the argillaceous carbonates or coal-measure clay iron ores, 
 and are found in alternate strata associated with the coal-beds. But 
 of late years North Staffordshire has largely contributed iron-ores 
 from the Churnet valley at Froghall, which consist of hydrated 
 oxides. The remainder of the supplies is furnished from Whitehaven, 
 Cleveland, and Northamptonshire. The characteristics of the iron dis- 
 tricts, inasmuch as they affect the tourist, are described under the 
 various localities of the Black country, which he will be probably at 
 least as anxious to leave as he was to enter it. For miles it is 
 nothing but a repetition of smoke, dirt, and flame, which require certain 
 conditions to make them at all bearable. 
 
 c. As regarding manufactures, upon which nearly the whole of Staf- 
 fordshire depends, it would be out of place in a Handbook to attempt to 
 detail all the numerous trades and subdivisions of trades entailed by the 
 manufactures of iron, copper, tinned, and japanned goods of all descrip- 
 tions. Each town has a speciality for a certain class of goods, such as— 
 
 Wolverhampton, for locks and japanned articles. 
 
 Willenhall, locks. 
 
 Walsall, awls, spurs, bits, and saddlery. 
 
 Cradley, nails. 
 
 Tipton, anchors. 
 
 Smethwick, glass. 
 
 Oldbury, railway carriages. 
 
 Wednesfield, keys. 
 
 The subdivision of labour may be imagined when we find that even 
 such an article as a corkscrew or a spur for cockfighting has its own 
 class of operatives. 
 
 d. Pottery . — The North Staffordshire coal-field, or at all events a 
 good portion of it, is almost entirely given up to the Potteries. “Few 
 industrial localities present a more vivid example of this rapid transfor- 
 mation than the Potteries, the scene of Wedgwood’s splendid triumphs, 
 and the home of wedded art and handicraft. In this instance the ware 
 of the Potteries has been a transforming spell, and by its power a dis- 
 trict which 100 years ago was described by the old chroniclers as 4 a 
 bleak and rugged landscape, very sparse of inhabitants,’ now teems with 
 active life, and occupies an honourable place among the world’s great 
 workshops.” It was not till 1760 that porcelain-making was com- 
 menced in this district, although brown earthenware was made at 
 Burslem (Rte. 32) about the end of the 16th century. The year 1715 
 saw a very great improvement by the introduction of purer clays from 
 Devonshire and Cornwall, but it was reserved for Wedgwood to 
 discover and make known to the world those beautiful earthenwares 
 and porcelains which made Etruria world-famous. More than 10,000 
 people are employed in the 260 pottery establishments at present exist- 
 ing, in addition to which there is a vast amount and minute subdivision 
 of labour in the shape of accessory manufactures, as in South Stafford- 
 shire, such as clay-grinding, colour-grinding, bone-grinding, flint-grind- 
 ing, charcoal-blacking making, &e. Not the least curious fact about the 
 
 h o 
 
XX XIV 
 
 n\ Antiquities . 
 
 Introd. 
 
 Potteries is, that not one of the requirements for the trade save coal is 
 found there, but they are brought together from different parts of tho 
 country; 155,933 tons of “ potter’s material*' (clay, flint, chert, &c.) 
 were brought into the district in 1871 (‘Mineral Statistics'); and yet, 
 such is the caprice of commercial (as well as social) fashion, that no 
 attempts to establish potteries in other districts on a large scale have 
 ever been successful. 
 
 The visitor is advised to read the ‘ Life of Wedgwood,’ by Miss 
 M« teyard, or the rival biography by Llew. Jewitt, which, together with 
 that of Bernard Palissy, will put him an courant with the history of this 
 interesting trade. 
 
 e. There are, in addition to the above staple resources of Staffordshire, 
 several others of minor importance. The limestone district near Wetton 
 and Ecton furnishes copper; the neighbourhood of Tutbury supplies 
 alabaster or gypsum on a large scale, a good specimen of which can be 
 seen in the shape of a “ patera M in the Geological Museum in Jcrrnyn- 
 street ; the Rowley Hills yield basalt, which when fused has been found 
 to make a beautiful ornamental ‘building material. Stourbridge yields 
 large beds of potters’ clay. In the vicinity of Sandon are some exten- 
 sive salt works placed on the strata of the triassic or saliferous beds. 
 Stafford and Stone arc famous for their shoemakers, tanners, and 
 curriers; while Uttoxeter possesses a specialty for cork-cutting and 
 clock cas<‘s, and Chcadle for tape. Nor must we forget Burton-on- 
 Trent, with its welcome and inexhaustible supplies of bitter beer — 
 another instance of a self-established trade, without any peculiar 
 inducements save those of very clear and pure wells of water. Indeed, 
 on the whole we may say that Staffordshire is a miniature of England, 
 and that she comprises in her voluminous resources examples of 
 marly all our most important trades. Drayton thus quaintly sums 
 up the characteristics of the four counties included in this Handbook : — 
 
 *' Thrtf Staffordshire bids \Stny, and I w ill boct the* fire, 
 
 And nothing will I ask but good-will fur my hire;' 
 
 • iioin belly * I^elcenterahin* her attribute doth b**ar ; 
 
 To l**rby ia aaaigned the name of ' wool and lead.’ 
 
 Aa Nottingham'* of old ia common * ale and bread.' ’* 
 
 IV. Antiquities. 
 
 a. a. Celtic. — This class of monuments abounds in Derbyshire more 
 than any other, and they are to be seen crowning many a high ground 
 in the shape of a tumulus, or, as it is locally called, “ low.” They 
 are generally of simple character, enclosing a stone vault, chamber, 
 or chest, usually called a kistvaen, but “in other cases a grave cut 
 more or less below the natural surfaces, and lined, if need be, with 
 stone stalls, in which tho body was placed in a perfect state, or reduced 
 to ashes by fire. When the latter method has been adopted the frag- 
 ments of tones have been carefully collected, and in many instances 
 placed in an earthenware vessel, which was then deposited in the vault. 
 These stone chambers vary in their dimensions from the size of a small 
 
Introd. 
 
 IV. 
 
 xxxv 
 
 room to that of a receptacle suited to contain only a few calcined "bones. 
 They are constructed in many ways, sometimes by walling, hut more 
 frequently by four or more large stones being placed on one end, and 
 covered in with a fifth stone of greater size. When vaults constructed 
 in this manner are denuded of the earth which in most cases originally 
 covered them, they are very conspicuous objects, and as such used 
 formerly to be considered as Druidical altars/’ — Bateman . They are 
 not always, however, so simple in their construction, the one at Five 
 Wells, near Taddington, being built with galleries leading to the 
 principal chamber. 
 
 These Celtic barrows usually contained urns of baked clay, with 
 calcined bones, drinking-cups, ornaments, weapons of flint, stone, and 
 bronze, lying beside the skeleton. 
 
 “In barrows of the Romano-British and Saxon periods, the con- 
 struction approaches more nearly to that now in use, viz. a small 
 mound raised over a grave of some depth beneath the surface, so that 
 they are, strictly speaking, grave-hills. There are certainly some large 
 barrows of this era, but they are exceptions; and, indeed, in many 
 localities the elevation is so slight as to be scarcely perceptible.” 
 
 Later on, during the Saxon period, interment was carried on in 
 nearly the same way, the Saxons very probably making use of the 
 Celtic barrows, and burying their dead at a small distance from the 
 surface. In these are found a more advanced style of ornament and 
 weapon than in the Celtic. 
 
 The following is a list of the principal “lows,” a name derived from 
 the Saxon “hlsew,” — anything that covers; hence, a grave. The 
 figures denote the route : — 
 
 5. Gib Hill, in the parish 
 
 5. Kenslow „ 
 
 5. Parcelly Hay ,, 
 
 33. Sharp Low ,, 
 
 33. Benty Grange „ 
 
 6. Arbor Low ,, 
 
 33. Crake Low „ 
 
 33. End Low „ 
 
 6. Blake Low ,, 
 
 6. Nether Low ,, 
 
 6. Hind Low „ 
 
 6. Brushfield ,, 
 
 6. Hay Top ,, 
 
 5. Bee Low „ 
 
 2. The Ferns „ 
 
 8. Calver Low „ 
 
 of Middleton-by-Youlgreave. 
 
 » it 
 
 Hartington. 
 
 Tissington. 
 
 Monvash, 
 
 Youlgreave. 
 
 Tissington. 
 
 Hartington. 
 
 Longstone. 
 
 Chelmorton, 
 
 Church Sterndale. 
 Ashford. 
 
 a 
 
 Youlgreave. 
 
 Foremark. 
 
 Eyam. 
 
 The tourist who feels an interest in the subject should consult the 
 late Mr. Bateman’s exhaustive treatise entitled ‘ Ten Years’ Diggings ; ’ 
 but unfortunately the museum of antiquities at Lomberdale, which 
 embraces all the curiosities found in these barrows, is not now open to 
 inspection. 
 
IntrocL 
 
 xxxvi iy. Antiquities. 
 
 Of the same period possibly as the barrows are the stone circles 
 on Eyam Moor, the singular arrangement of rocks on Higgar Tor, 
 and the defensive position of the Carl’s Work above Hathersage; the 
 Rocking Stones, and “Nine Ladies” Circle on Stanton Moor, Robin 
 Hood’s Mark on Ashover Moor, and perhaps the earthworks at Staddon 
 Moor ; although, considering their proximity to the Roman station of 
 Aquis, it is just as likely that these are of later date. 
 
 /3. Roman . — Derbyshire, which was included in the district of the 
 Coritavi, is traversed from S. to N. by the Ryknield, or Yr Icknield 
 Street, which enters Derbyshire near Egginton, there crossing the Dove, 
 and running to the station of Derventio (Little Chester, near Derby). 
 At Breadsall it diverges a little to the rt., through Horsley and Denby. 
 It is again seen at South Wingfield, where it may be traced to 
 Chesterfield, supposed to be the ancient Lutudarum. 
 
 A second great road probably ran from Derventio N.W. to Buxton, 
 believed by Gale to have been the Aquis of Ravennas, and thence 
 was continued in the same direction to Mancunium (Manchester). 
 Traces of it are discernible in the old turnpike road between Har- 
 tington and Buxton. 
 
 A cross-road intersected this at Buxton in its course from Congleton 
 to the Roman camp at Brough, which in the interval between Buxton 
 and Brough is called the Batham Gate, and is easily traced across the 
 moors at the back of Tideswell. From Brough there was evidently 
 a connection with Melandra Station (Glossop), by a road called the 
 Doctor’s Gate. In addition to these remains are the camp on Comb’s 
 Moss and the Rhedagua, near Whaley Bridge. On the whole, however, 
 Roman remains in Derbyshire are not plentiful, though in some places 
 a number of coins, together with a few altars and some pigs of lead, 
 have been discovered in the vicinity of roads or stations. 
 
 y. In the Saxon period Derbyshire formed an important portion of 
 the Heptarchy, Repton (Repandunum) being the capital of Mercia and 
 the burial-place of the Mercian kings. To this date accordingly is 
 attributed by some antiquaries the crypt in Repton ch. Bakewell also 
 was well known as a Mercian town, although there are now no Saxon 
 remains. The Danes have left some traces behind them, as in the 
 name of Derby ; some works at Eckington, known as the Danes* Balk ; 
 a doubtful camp at Hathersage ; and the cemetery at Knowl Hill, 
 near Foremark, which latter, however, is ascribed to them on only 
 slight tradition. 
 
 5. Mediaeval . — Of the castles that Derbyshire once possessed, only 
 three, viz., Codnor, Bolsover, and the Castle of the Peak, remain, and 
 even they are of inconsiderable extent: the latter owes its celebrity 
 partly to the situation and partly to its association with the writings 
 of Sir Walter Scott. Of Gresley, Horsley, and Chesterfield Castles, there 
 are very few traces. There are, however, some very fine specimens of 
 domestic architecture, chiefly of the 15th and 16th centuries. These 
 
Introcl. 
 
 iv. Antiquities . 
 
 xxxvli 
 
 Route 
 
 4. Wingfield Manor-house 
 6. Haddon Hall .. .. 
 
 8. Bradshaw Hall 
 33. Tissington Hall 
 13. Hardwick Hall 
 13. Old Hardwick .. 
 
 13. Bolsover Castle 
 4. Wingerworth Hall . . 
 4. Barlborough Hall .. 
 
 15th centy. 
 15th centy. 
 17 th centy. 
 Elizabethan. 
 Elizabethan. 
 Henry VII. 
 
 1 6th centy. 
 17 th centy. 
 Elizabethan. 
 
 Ecclesiastical remains are still more scanty, and are limited to three, 
 viz., Dale Abbey, some remains of the Priory at Repton, and Beauchief 
 Abbey : a window or a few arches are the only remnants even of these, 
 except in the latter case, which retains, though modernized, a consider- 
 able portion of the old abbey. 
 
 The churches, however, will afford more scope for the ecclesiologist, 
 many of them being of considerable size and beauty, and rich in monu- 
 mental remains. The following is a table of those most worth attention : — 
 
 Route 
 
 33. Ashbourne .. 
 
 E. E. : Dec. spire : monuments : brasses. 
 
 3. Alfreton 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 6. Ashford 
 
 Effigy on wall. 
 
 4. Ashover 
 
 Mon. brasses. 16th centy. 
 
 4. Allestree 
 
 Norm, doorway. 
 
 6. Bakewell 
 
 Monuments, spire, cross : remnant of Norm. nave. 
 
 13. Bolsover 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 4. Brampton .. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 4. Breadsall 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 2. Breedon 
 
 The Shirley pew and monuments. 
 
 10. Chaddesden.. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 6. Chelmorton . . 
 
 Dwarf stone chancel-screen. 
 
 3. Cromford .. 
 
 Monument by Chantrey. 
 
 4. Chesterfield 
 
 Perp. : crooked spire, screen, monuments, brasses. 
 
 5. Crich 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 10. Dale 
 
 Singing gallery. 
 
 4. Darley 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 4. Duffield .. .. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 4. Denbey 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 1. Derby, All Saints . . 
 
 Perp. Tower, monuments, screen, stained glass. 
 
 „ St. Alkmund’s Dec. monument. 
 
 „ St. Andrew’s 
 
 Modern. 
 
 „ St. Peter’s 
 
 Perp. 
 
 5. Dethick 
 
 Perp. 
 
 4. Dronfield 
 
 Dec. : stalls, monuments, brasses. 
 
 10. Elvaston 
 
 Screen, monuments. 
 
 1. Etwall 
 
 Monuments and brasses, 16th centy. 
 
 8. Eyam 
 
 Cross in churchyard, gravestones. 
 
 33. Fenny Bentley .. 
 
 Screen. 
 
 1. Findern 
 
 Modern : Norm, tympanum preserved. 
 
 33. Hartington .. 
 
 Cruciform ch., interesting, though small. 
 
 8. Hathersage .. 
 
 Dec. : stained glass, monuments, brasses. 
 
iv. Antiquities . 
 
 In trod. 
 
 xxxviii 
 
 Route 
 
 — — 
 
 3. Heanor 
 
 . . . . 
 
 8. Hope .. 
 
 
 3. Ilkeston 
 
 • • . . 
 
 1. Kedleston 
 
 .. 
 
 5. Matlock 
 
 . . . . 
 
 4. Morley 
 
 .. 
 
 2. Melbourne 
 
 .. •• 
 
 33. Norbury 
 
 „ .. 
 
 1. Norman ton 
 
 .. .. 
 
 4. Norton 
 
 • • •• 
 
 5. Rowsley 
 
 .. .. 
 
 1. Repton 
 
 .. 
 
 3. Sandiacre 
 
 . . . . 
 
 10. Sawley 
 
 .. .. 
 
 4. Shi Hand 
 
 . . . . 
 
 2. Stanton 
 
 . . . . 
 
 3. Stapleford 
 
 .. 
 
 4. Staveley 
 
 
 13. Sutton in Scarsdale 
 
 2. Swarkestone 
 13. Teversal 
 6. Tides well 
 1. Willington .. 
 
 4. Wirks worth 
 
 5. Youlgreave .. 
 
 Holy Wells. King’s Newton, near Melbourne. 
 Crosses. Bake well. Eyam. Wheston. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Chamber over porch, gurgoyles. 
 
 Screen, stained glass. 
 
 Monuments, brass, 15th centy. 
 
 Hoof. 
 
 Stained glass, monuments, brasses. 
 
 Norm, (restored): monuments. 
 
 Stained glass, monuments, brasses, screen, and stalls. 
 Norm. : corbel-table. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Saxon crypt, Dec. nave. 
 
 Dec. : large chancel, E. window, 
 loth-centy. brasses. 
 
 Perp. : monuments. 
 
 Monuments, 16th centy. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Monuments, brasses. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Norm.: monuments. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Dec. tower : monuments, brasses : general dignity. 
 Norm. : doorway. 
 
 Perp. : chapels, monuments, brasses, bas-relief. 
 Font: Perp. tower. 
 
 The tourist will notice with satisfaction the spirit of church 
 restoration that has of late years sprung up in Derbyshire, particularly 
 in the southern portion of the county. 
 
 b. The antiquities of Nottinghamshire will not bear comparison in 
 interest or number with those of Derbyshire, there being indeed none 
 of Celtic origin, and only one early remain considered by Mr. Bateman 
 to be of Saxon date, viz. the burying-place at Cotgreave, to the S. of 
 Bingham. Nottingham, however, though containing now no actual 
 Saxon remains, was yet famous in those days for its caves in the 
 sandstone, from which it derived its name of Snottengham. Roman 
 remains are limited mainly to the Fosse Way, which entered the 
 county near Willoughby-in-the-Wold in its course from Leicester 
 (Rata}) to Lincoln. A tradition at Willoughby that the ruins of a great 
 city lie buried near it, and the discovery of coins, would seem to corro- 
 borate the notion that it had been a Roman station. Thence it runs 
 N.E. through East Bridgeford, near Bingham, where are remains of a 
 camp which is thought by some antiquaries to have beeu the station of 
 Vernometum. From Bridgeford it proceeded to Newark, finally leaving 
 the county at Collingham. The greater part of its course is now a turn- 
 pike-road. There is also a tessclated pavement, together with some 
 remains of ancient fortifications, at Barton-in-Fabis (t. e. Bar ton-in- the- 
 Beans), near Trent Junction. 
 
Introcl. 
 
 iy. Antiquities . xxxix 
 
 Mediaeval remains are not very numerous, considering the size and 
 importance of the county. Newark is the only castle worth mentioning, 
 as that of Nottingham is, though a ruin, merely the shell of a building 
 of the latter part of the 17th century ; of Cuckney and Gresley Castles 
 there are no traces. Of abbeys and monastic remains Newstead is the 
 most important and the most beautiful, though its adaptation to resi- 
 dential purposes has put it out of the pale of mediaeval buildings, the 
 west front of the church excepted ; and it is unfortunately now closed 
 to the tourist. 
 
 Next in preservation are the conventual remains at Radford, near 
 Worksop ; of Mattersey and Beauvale there are very small remains ; and 
 of the Priory of Thurgarton, none except a bay of the present ch. 
 Worksop ch. is the nave of the Abbey. Newark ch. is of the dignity 
 of a Minster, and of great beauty. Retford ch. is also very fine. In 
 two cases, viz. at Scrooby and Southwell, we have ancient domestic 
 buildings still in use as residences ; the only other domestic remains 
 (and those of the rudest character) left are those of King John’s 
 palace near Ollerton, and, of a later date, the still inhabited halls of 
 Carcolston, Shelford, and Kingshaugh, as well as the noble Elizabethan 
 mansion of Wollaton. In modernized mansions, however, Nottingham- 
 shire is very rich, probably containing more than any county in 
 England for its size; of these the principal are Newstead, Clumber, 
 Thoresby, Welbeck, Rufford, and Serlby, all of them within the area 
 of Sherwood Forest, that old familiar resort 
 
 “ Of Robin Hood and Little John ; 
 
 Of Scarlock, George a Green, and Much the Miller's Son ; 
 
 Of Tuck the merry friar, which many a sermon made 
 In praise of Robin Hood, his outlaws, and their trade.” 
 
 Drayton. 
 
 It may at first sight appear singular that this district affords so few 
 traces of the bold outlaw and his men, with whom the history of 
 Nottinghamshire is identified ; but when we reflect on the roving and 
 sylvan character of Robin Hood, it is evident that he was not likely, from 
 the nature of his habits and pursuits, to leave behind him much except 
 tradition. 
 
 The attempts to elucidate the history of Robin Hood have been 
 various ; some writers maintaining his identity with an Earl of Hunt- 
 ingdon, the mainstay of which theory is the inscription at Kirklees, in 
 Yorkshire. This, however, is now known to be a fabrication. Thierry, 
 in his ‘ English History,’ speaks of him as the chief of a body of Saxons 
 collected together in hostility to the Normans. Others again consider 
 him as a myth altogether, a mere peg whereon to hang the national 
 love of sylvan lore. It would seem, however, that he was a veri table per- 
 sonage living in the time of Henry III., probably an adherent of Simon 
 de Montfort, who, after the disastrous battle of Evesham, retired into 
 the forest, and there made war on his own account upon his majesty’s 
 lieges. Mr. Hunter, in his short treatise upon Robin Hood, endeavours 
 to show from public records that, during the King’s progress in Lan- 
 
Introd. 
 
 xl 
 
 IV. Antiquities. 
 
 cashire and Nottinghamshire, Robin Hood was pardoned and received 
 into the royal household. “ The outlaw’s was eminently a life which 
 litted him to be the hero of song ; in its most obvious features poetical, 
 spent in the open country or in the depths of forests, there was nothing 
 in nature which the poet might not summon up for the embellishment 
 of his story ; full also of adventure, some tragic occurrences, and some 
 partaking of that good humour and disposition to merriment which are 
 distinguishable features of his character.” — Hunter . 
 
 The following is a list of the most interesting Nottinghamshire 
 churches, which, however, are scarcely equal in size or beauty to those 
 of Derbyshire or Leicestershire : — 
 
 Route 
 
 12. Aslacton 
 
 10. Attenborough .. 
 
 11. Averham .. 
 
 1 7. Bawtry 
 
 12. Bingham 
 
 18. Blyth 
 
 10. Clifton 
 
 10. Colwick 
 
 11. Hawton 
 
 17. Holme 
 
 12. Holme Pierrepont .. 
 
 13. Hucknall Torkard .. 
 
 16. Kelham 
 
 13. Mansfield 
 
 13. Mansfield Woodhouse 
 
 17. East Markham . . 
 
 11. Newark 
 
 10. Nottingham, St. Mary’s 
 
 „ St. Barnabas 
 17. Retford 
 
 14. Southwell Minster .. 
 
 11. Thurgarton 
 
 17. Tuxford 
 
 12. Whatton 
 
 10. Wollaton 
 
 15. Worksop 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Norm. 
 
 E. E. and Dec. 
 
 Conventual ch., monuments, screen. 
 Monuments and brasses. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Founder’s sepulchre, stained glass. 
 
 Monuments and chamber porch. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Byron’s monument. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Sancte bell. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Dec. : steeple and spire, stained glass, brasses : 
 general size and dignity. 
 
 Perp. windows, Norm, porch. 
 
 Modern R. C. Cathedral, E. E. 
 
 Size and dignity. 
 
 Norm, and E. E. 
 
 Portion of old abbey ch. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Norm. : monuments, nave of abbey. 
 
 c. Ijeicestershire is an interesting county to the antiquary and the 
 ecclesiologist, particularly in remains of medieval date. 
 
 Of Early Rerruiins there are but few; viz. an encampment on Bea- 
 con Hill, near Mount Sorrel, where Mr. Herrick, of Beaumanoir, in 
 forming a drive, found a number of celts and armlets ; and the tumuli 
 and earthworks on Saltby Heath, near Croxton Park. 
 
 Roman . — There are two Homan roads in Leicestershire. The Wat- 
 ling Street, which enters the county on the S.W. near Lutterworth, 
 and leaves it near Mancctter (Manvcssedunum), in Warwickshire. 
 About midway between the two places is High Cross, the ancient 
 
Xntrod. 
 
 iy. Antiquities. 
 
 xli 
 
 Bennones or Yennones, where the Fosse Way enters Leicestershire and 
 runs through the county to Batse (Leicester), and on to Willoughby 
 and Bridgeford (Yernometum) in Nottinghamshire. Camden, and 
 Burton the Leicestershire antiquary, both testify to the finding of coins 
 near High Cross, where the tradition of a ruined city at Claybrooke, 
 close adjoining, is still extant. 
 
 For other Roman remains Leicester can point to its Jewry Wall, one 
 of the finest relics of the kind in England ; its milestone, which clearly 
 points to its identity with Ratm ; and the Rawdykes, the old Rhedagua 
 of the charioteers. There are also several camps, particularly in the E. 
 part of the county — at Burrow and Billesdon. The termination of the 
 names of the villages in this district, and the fact that Medbourne, near 
 Market Harborough, is said to have been a Roman station and to have 
 yielded numbers of coins, makes it probable that a road led from hence 
 through Melton to join the Fosse Way. 
 
 Banish. — Although no remains can be pointed out which can be 
 attributed to the Danes, it is well known that Leicestershire was part 
 of the Danelagh, and this is corroborated by the names of the villages, 
 many terminating in “by,” such as Ashby, Brooksby, Frisby, &c., 
 which is so common as to be almost the rule. 
 
 In Mediaeval remains and churches Leicestershire is tolerably rich. Of 
 its castles, Ashby-de-la-Zouch, Castle Donington, and Kirkby Muxloe 
 (with its brick courses), still show traces of their former importance (the 
 former in particular), whilst at Earl Shilton, Groby, Hinckley, and 
 Whitwick little more than the site remains. Of religious houses there 
 are the ruins of Gracedieu, the Priory of Ulverscroft, the boundary 
 wall of Leicester Abbey, and some slight traces of Lubbesthorpe 
 Abbey. Of old mansions, the most noticeable are Laund Abbey, 
 Nevill Holt, Noseley, Quenby, and Withcote, all Elizabethan ; Beau- 
 manoir, Coleorton, Garendon, and Roecliffe are all very fine modern 
 houses. Of churches, Leicester contains several of much interest, 
 which, together with Melton, are sufficient to attract the antiquary. 
 There are, however, a considerable number of village churches contain- 
 ing many curious points ; and the county has to thank the Leicester- 
 shire Archaeological Society for directing public attention to their 
 preservation and restoration. 
 
 The following list includes the churches best worth seeing - 
 
 Koute 
 
 22. Ashby Monuments ; finger pillory. 
 
 23. Belton Monuments. 
 
 12. Bottesford Perp. : monuments. 
 
 20. Brooksby Monuments. 
 
 21. Burton Lazars .. .. Bell-tower. 
 
 19. Burton Overy .. .. Sculpture. 
 
 19. Carleton Monuments. 
 
 23. Coleorton Stained glass. 
 
 24. Costock Monument outside the ch. 
 
xlii 
 
 iv. Antiquities, 
 
 Introd. 
 
 Route 
 
 20. Earl Shilton .. 
 
 24. Frolesworth 
 
 23. Gracedieu 
 
 22. Gresley 
 
 20. Hinckley 
 
 24. Kegworth 
 
 24. Leake 
 
 24. Lockington 
 
 19. Leicester, St. Nicholas 
 
 „ St. Mary’s .. 
 
 „ All Saints^ .. 
 
 „ St. Martin’s.. 
 
 „ St. Margaret’s 
 
 24. Loughborough .. 
 
 24. Lutterworth 
 
 20. Market Bosworth 
 
 19. Market Harborough .. 
 
 21. Melton Mowbray 
 
 22. Nether Seal 
 
 19. Nevill Holt .. .. 
 
 24. Prestwould 
 
 23. Whitwick 
 
 24. Wimeswould 
 
 19. Wistow 
 
 23. Woodhouse 
 
 24. WysaU 
 
 Modern frescoes. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 R. C. chapel ; stained glass. 
 Monuments. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Stained glass. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Chantry chapel. 
 
 Norm. ; portion of Roman materials. 
 Norm, and E. E. 
 
 Norm. 
 
 Mixed styles. 
 
 Perp. 
 
 Cruciform ch., brasses. 
 
 Wycliffe’s reputed relics. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 14th centy. 
 
 E. E.; Perp. 
 
 Monuments (15th centy.). 
 
 Dec. and Perp. : monuments. 
 Monuments. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Well restored. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Miserere seats. 
 
 Stained glass. 
 
 D. The antiquities of Staffordshire are of more importance than those 
 of either Notts or Leicestershire. 
 
 a. Early British remains are tolerably numerous, and much has been 
 done, particularly in the northern part of the county, by the labours of 
 Messrs. Bateman, Carrington, and Garner, to elucidate them. In the 
 neighbourhood of Wetton no less than 23 barrows were opened, two- 
 thirds of which appeared to belong to the early Stone period. Some of 
 them contained human bones, generally calcined, together with vessels, 
 urns, stags’ horns, fibulaB, &c. The Borough, near Wetton, seems to 
 have been an important British village, containing traces of the round 
 pits generally seen in those localities, and yielding remains of celts, 
 stone hammers, and human bones. On the floor of Thor’s Cave were 
 many articles of the later Celtic period, such as bronze armlets, fibulae, 
 and rings, implements of iron, perforated pins and tools of bone, frag- 
 ments of querns, and some articles of Samian ware. Mr. Gamer men- 
 tions the discovery of several British ornaments, such as torques, one of 
 which was found in Needwood Forest. Among the most interesting 
 barrows opened in Staffordshire are — 
 
 Saxon Low, near Tittensor; 
 
 Bury Bank, ditto ; 
 
 Moat-in-Ribden, at the foot of Weever ; 
 
 Mayfield ; 
 
Introd. 
 
 IV. Antiquities . 
 
 xliii 
 
 and a great number in the parishes of Wetton, Cauldon, Alston efield, 
 Stanton, Waterfall, and Ham. In fact, the whole of the moorland 
 grit and limestone district is covered with barrows and burial-places of 
 more or less size, evincing the former presence of a large population. 
 
 p. Homan . — There are several camps in the county, probably British, 
 but, as was often the case, afterwards utilized by the Romans. Of these 
 were the camps near Whitmore, and at Beaudesert, and Knave’s Castle, 
 in the neighbourhood of Etocetum (now Wall, near Lichfield). This was 
 the great stronghold of the Romans in Staffordshire, to which converged 
 the main lines of road, viz. Yr Icknield or Ryknield Street, which entered 
 the county at Birmingham, and took a north-easterly course through Eto- 
 cetum to Burton-on-Trent, thence to run to Derby (Derventio) ; and the 
 Watling Street, which entered at Fazeley and ran right across on its way 
 from Etocetum to Uriconium (Wroxeter). The names of places and 
 hamlets on the line of these roads sufficiently betoken their relationship 
 to them. Penkridge was thought by some antiquaries to have been 
 the old Pennocrocium, while others place it on the site of one of the 
 numerous “ Strettons.” 
 
 y. Of Mediaeval Remains, especially in the matter of churches, there 
 is ample store. Staffordshire was famous then, even as it is now, for its 
 fine mansions, beautiful plates of which are given in Plot’s Natural 
 History of that county ; and if it cannot boast of the largest or finest, 
 it possesses the most graceful cathedral in England, which in itself 
 would be sufficient to attract the archaeologist. 
 
 The following is a list of the principal ancient mansions and domestic 
 remains : — 
 
 Route 
 
 30. Aqualate. 
 
 30. Beaudesert. 1 
 
 26. Bentley Hall. 
 
 32, Caverswall. 
 
 31. Chartley Castle. 
 25. Chillington. 
 
 27. Dudley Castle. 
 
 27. Enville Hall. 
 
 31. Gay ton. 
 
 29. Hamstall Ridware. 
 31. Ingestre. 
 
 Route 
 
 27. Prestwood. 
 
 30. Ran ton Abbey. 
 
 27. Rushall. 
 
 26. Stafford Castle. 
 
 27. Stourton Castle. 
 
 28. Tam worth Castle. 
 
 33. Throwley Hall. 
 
 30. Tixall ; Tudor Gateway ; 
 
 house modern. 
 
 25. Wrottesley Hall. 
 
 29. Wyrley.* 
 
 Of churches, the following are the best worth the attention of the 
 tourist : — 
 
 Route 
 
 29. Abbot’s Bromley . . Monuments ; deerheads. 
 
 27. Aldridge Monuments ; windows. 
 
 30. Armitage Norm, doorway. 
 
 26. Ashley Monuments. 
 
 * Beside these, Staffordshire abounds in fine estates, with modern houses, which are in 
 various ways deserving of notice, such as 11am Hall, Alton Towers, Shugborough, Patteshull, 
 I\eele Hall, Trentham, &c. 
 
xliv Antiquities. Introd. 
 
 Route 
 
 27. Alrewas Monuments. 
 
 33. Alstonefield .. .. Carvings. 
 
 26. Audley Tombs and brass. 
 
 26. Brewood Monuments. 
 
 28. Burton Altarpiece. 
 
 34. Cheadle Oak carving. 
 
 „ R. C. Cathedral By Pugin ; tine spire and internal decorations. 
 
 32. Chockley Monuments. 
 
 30. Colton Sedilia; font. 
 
 30. Colwich Monuments. 
 
 28. Croxall Monuments. 
 
 32. Drnycott Monuments. 
 
 26. Eocieshall .. .. Restored. 
 
 28. Klford Monuments. 
 
 33. Ellastone Monuments. 
 
 30. EUenhall Pulpit-cloth. 
 
 27. Enville Monuments. 
 
 30. FarweH Windows; stalls. 
 
 30. Gnosall Monuments. 
 
 25. Handsworth .. .. Monuments. 
 
 29. Hamstall Rid ware .. Stalls; screen; glass. 
 
 32. Hanbury Monuments ; brasses. 
 
 SO. High Offley .. .. Moiruments. 
 
 34. Horton Glass; monuments. 
 
 33.1lam Beautifully restored : mon. by Chantrey ; mor- 
 
 tuary chapel. 
 
 27. Kinver Monuments, brass. 
 
 34. Leek Rose window : fine (rebuilt) chancel. 
 
 32. Leigh Monuments. 
 
 27. Lichfield Cathedral. 
 
 „ SL Mary’s.. Modem. 
 
 „ St. Michael’s. Restored. 
 
 30. Longdon Monuments. 
 
 26. Madeley Sedilia, monuments. 
 
 29. Mavesyn-Ridware .. Monuments. 
 
 32. Marchington .. .. Monuments. 
 
 36. Newcastle .. .. Tower ancient; body modem. 
 
 30. Norbury Monuments ; brass. 
 
 26. Penkridge .. •• Monuments. 
 
 32. Kolleston .. .. Norm, doorway; monuments. 
 
 34. Rrnhton Spencer .. Mainly timber. 
 
 31. Smdon Monuments; gUss. 
 
 26. Shareshill .. .. Monuments. 
 
 33. Sheen Good modem ch. t with stone roof to chancel. 
 
 26. Stafford, St. Mary's.. Monuments: general grandeur. 
 
 „ St Chad's.. Norm. 
 
 81, Stone Monuments. 
 
 31. Stowe Monuments; brass. 
 
 28. Tam worth .. .. Stai erase ; crypt; general dignity. 
 
 25. Tettenhall .. .. Monuments. 
 
 31. Trentham .. .. Monummis: Jarubaan screen, brasses. 
 
 32. Tutbury Norm. door. 
 
Introd. 
 
 y. Places of Interest 
 
 xlv 
 
 Route 
 
 25. Wednesbury .. .. Monuments. 
 
 25. West Bromwich .. Monuments. 
 
 25. Wolverhampton .. Monuments; pulpit: Danish cross. 
 
 32. Wolstanton .. .. Spire: restoration. 
 
 29. Yoxall Monuments ; brass. 
 
 Of ecclesiastical remains there are only : — 
 
 Route 
 
 28. Burton Some arches of abbey. 
 
 34. Croxden Very fine ruins. 
 
 34. Dieulacresse . . . . Scattered details. 
 
 34. Rocester Very slight. 
 
 Y. Places of Interest, 
 
 a. Derbyshire. 
 
 Willington. Ch. FindernCh. Etwall Ch., Hospital, and Hall. DalbnryCh, 
 Bepton. Ch. School. Foremark. Anchor Ch. 
 
 Melbourne. Ch. Melbourne Hall and Gardens. Knowl Hills and an- 
 cient Cemetery. Bredon Ch. Bulwarks. Staunton Harold Ch. and 
 Hall. King’s Newton Hall. Holy Well. Swarkestone Ch. Bridge. 
 Chellaston . Gypsum Quarries. Elvaston Castle. 
 
 Derby. Ely. Stat. All Saints* Ch. St. Alkmund’s Ch. St. Peter’s Ch. 
 Koman Cath. Ch. and Convent. Grammar School. Museum. Arbo- 
 retum. Old Silk Mill. Kedleston, Ch. and Park. Allestree and 
 Breadsall Ch. Duffield Ch. Ruins of Horsley Castle. Denby Ch. 
 Morley Ch. and Monuments. 
 
 Belper. Mills. Scenery at Milford. Depth o’ Lumb. Cemetery. 
 Ambergate. Scenery of the Derwent. Whatstandwell. Crich Hill. Lea 
 Hurst. 
 
 Wingfield. Manor House. Shirland Ch. Ashover Ch. Scenery of the 
 Amber Yalley. Alffeton Ch. 
 
 Clay Cross. Ironworks. Wingerworth Hall. 
 
 Chesterfield. Ch. and spire. Grammar School. Dronfield Ch. Norton. 
 Birthplace and Tomb of Chantrey. Beaucbief Abbey. Staveley Hall. 
 Sutton Ch. and Hall. Hardwick Hall. Brampton Ch. Eckington 
 Ch. Danes’ Balk. Barlborough Hall. Markland Grips. 
 
 Cromford. Scenery. Mills. Chapel. Willersley Castle. 
 
 Matlock. Scenery. Caverns. Dethick. High Tor. Masson. Petrifying 
 Spring. Matlock Bank. Matlock Ch. Bonsall. Yia Gellia. Sally 
 Edge. Scarthing Nick. 
 
 Wirksworth. Ch. Moot Hall. Lead-mines. Stonnis Edge. 
 
 Darley Dale. Ch. Oker Hill. 
 
 Bowsley. Ch. Stanton. Rowtor Rocks. Nine Ladies. Bradley Rocks. 
 Fulwood Castle. Mock Beggar’s Hall. Youlgreave. Arborlow. Bee 
 Low. Gib Hill. Winster. 
 
 Bakewell. Ch. Baths. Cross. Haddon Hall. Scenery of the Lathkill. 
 Ashford Ch. Quarries. Chatsworth House and Park. Edensor Ch. 
 and Village. Monsal Dale. Cressbrook. Taddington and Five Wells. 
 
xlvi y. Places of Interest . IntrocL 
 
 Tidesxrell. Ch. Cross at Wheston. Millers Dale. Cliee Tor. Tongue 
 End. 
 
 Buxton. Baths. Crescent. Hospital. Old Hall. Duke’s Drive. Lovers’ 
 Leap. Poole’s Hole. Grinlow Limeworks. Earthworks at Staddon. 
 Axe Edge. High Peak Illy. Water Swallows. Comb’s Moss. Camp. 
 Dovelioles. 
 
 Earttngton. Ch. Berosford Dale. Sheen Hill and Ch. Ecton Hill and 
 Copper Mine. Valley of the Manifold. Arborlow Circle. Latlikill 
 Dale. 
 
 Chapel-en-le- Frith. Well at Barmoor. Chinley Chum. Hayfield. Kin der- 
 scout. Bradshaw Hall. 
 
 Whaley Bridge. Itoosdyke. Scenery of the Goyt. 
 
 CcLstleton. Ch. Peak Castle. Devil s Cavern. Odin’s Mine. Speedwell 
 Mine. Winniatts. Cave Dale. Perryfoot. Eldon Hole. Bagshaw’s 
 Cave. Blue John Mine. Mam Tor. Tray Cliff. Scenery of the Noe. 
 Kinderscout. Edale. Hope Ch. Brough. Roman Camp. Batham 
 Gate. Asliopton. Scenery of Derwent and Asliop Water. Cakes of 
 Bread. 
 
 Glo88op. Melandra Castle. Millstone-grit Rocks. Viaduct. Reservoirs. 
 Uathersage. Ch. Little John’s Grave. Camp. Carl s Work. Rocking 
 Stone on Booth’s Edge. Higgar Tor. 
 
 Eyam. Ch. Cross. Circle. Cucklet Delph. Middleton Dale. Castle Rock. 
 Stoney Middleton. Dale. Baths. Calver Edge. Baslow Ch. 
 
 Ashbourne. Ch. Fenny Bentley Ch. Tissington Ch. and Hall. Okcover. 
 Ilam Ch. and Hall. Scenery of the Hamps and Manifold. Dovedale. 
 Tissington Spires. Reynard’s Hall. Mill Dale. 
 
 Ilkeston. Cli. Stanton Dale Ch. and Works. Codnor Park and 
 Butterley Works. Codnor Castle. Heanor Ch. Sandiacre Ch. Dale 
 Abbey. Morley Ch. Ockbrook Ch. and Moravian Settlement. 
 
 b. Nottinghamshire. 
 
 Trent Junction. Gotham. Attenborough Ch. and Monuments. Chilwell Ch. 
 
 Beeston. Clifton Ch. and Hall. Wilford Avenue. 
 
 Nottingham. Market Place. Castle. Caves and Rock-holes. Mortimer’s 
 Hole. Sneinton Caves. St. Mary’s Ch. Roman Cath. Ch. Trent 
 Bridge. Arboretum. Children’s Playing-ground. Lace-Factories. 
 Wollaton Hall and Ch. Colwick Ch. Holme Pierrcpont Ch. 
 Thurgarton. Ch. 
 
 SouthtoeU. Minster. Remains of Archbishop’s Palace. Saracen’s Head. 
 Newark. Castle. Church and Brass. Beacon Hill. Beaumond Cross. 
 Hawton Ch. and Founder’s Sepulchre. Collingbam Ch. Kelham Ch. 
 and Hall. Avcrham Ch. Kingshaugh. Holme Ch. Tuxford Ch. 
 IlucknnU Tmkard. Ch. Monument of Byron. Beauvale Abbey. Papple- 
 wick Cave. Newstead Abbey (closed). Fountain Dale. 
 
 Mansfield. Ch. King’s Mill. Flood Dyke. Mansfield Woodhouso Ch. 
 Edwinstowe Archway. King John’s Palace. Worksop. Parliament 
 Oak. Cuckney Ch. The Dukery. Bilhuugh and Birkland Forests. 
 
Introd. 
 
 xlvii 
 
 y. Places of Interest. 
 
 Worksop. Abbey Remains. Ch. Roman Catholic Ch. Welbeck Abbey. 
 Greendale Oak. Duke’s Walking Stick. Worksop Manor. Osberton. 
 Thoresby. Clumber. Steetley Chap. Ruins. Shireoaks Colliery. 
 Blyth. Ch. Roche Abbey. Hodsock Gateway. 
 
 Fast Betford. Serlby Hall. Domestic Remains at Scrooby. 
 
 Ollerton. Forest Scenery. Wellow. Rufford Abbey. 
 
 Bingham. Ch. Roman Station at Bridgeford. Skelford Old Hall. 
 Carcolston Hall. Aslacton Ch. Willoughby Ch. Bottesford Ch. 
 Belvoir Castle. 
 
 c. Leicestershire. 
 
 Asliby -de-la- Z ouch. Ch. Castle. Ivanhoe Baths. Tournament Meadow. 
 Gresley Ch. Netherseal Ch. Coleorton Hall and Ch. Whitwick 
 Castle and Ch. Gracedieu Nunnery Ruins and Chapel. Belton Ch. 
 Bardon Hill. Mount St. Bernard Monastery. Charnwood Forest. 
 Old House at Donnington. 
 
 Leicester. Jewry Wall. Tesselated Pavement. Museum. St. Nicholas’ 
 Ch. St. Mary’s Ch.. St. Martin’s Ch. St. Margaret’s Ch. Abbey 
 Ruins and Domestic Remains. Wigston’s Hospital. Castle. Newarke. 
 Gateways. Town Hall. Brick Tower. Bradgate Hall. Avenue. 
 Old John. Chapel. Ulverscroft Priory Ruins. GrobyPool. Remains 
 of Mansion of the Lords Grey. Kirby Muxloe Castle. Wistow Hall 
 and Ch. Burton Overy Ch. Carleton Ch. 
 
 Market Harbor ough. Ch. Nevill Holt Hall and Ch. Medbourne. 
 Lutterworth. Ch. and Wickliffe Relics. High Cross Roman Stat. 
 
 Hinckley. Ch. Market Bosworth Ch. and Battle-field. Gopsall Hall. 
 Mount Sorrel. Granite Quarries. 
 
 Barrow-on^Soar. Lias Quarries. 
 
 Loughborough. Ch. Costock Ch. Wysall Ch. Prestwould Ch. West 
 Leake Ch. Willoughby Ch. Kegworth Ch. Brooksby Ch. 
 
 Melton. Ch. Burton Lazars Ch. Camps at Burrow and Billesdon. 
 Croxton Park. Tumuli on Saltby Heath, Earthworks. Belvoir 
 Castle. Mausoleum. 
 
 d. Staffordshire. 
 
 Handsworth. Ch. Smethwick. Chance’s Glassworks. 
 
 West Bromwich. Ch. Sandwell Park. 
 
 Wednesbury. Ch. Ironworks. 
 
 Bilston. Works and Collieries. Priestfield. 
 
 Wolverhampton. St. Peter’s Ch. Albert Statue, Railway Stations. 
 Japan Works. Tettenhall Ch. Waterworks. Codsall Ch. Wrottesley 
 Park. Sedgeley Ch. 
 
 Berry Barr. Aston Hall and Ch. Oscott College. 
 
 JDarlaston. Bentley Hall, Willenhall. Lock-making Establishments. 
 Stourbridge. Glassworks, Pedmore Ch. KinverCh. KinverEdge. Scenery 
 of the Stour. Stourton Castle. Prestwood. Enville Hall. 
 
 Brierley Hill. Ironworks. 
 
xlviii 
 
 Introd. 
 
 y. Places of Interest. 
 
 Dudley . Castle. Ch. Fountain. Limestone Caverns. Wren’s Nest. Himley. 
 Walsall. Manufactories. Church and crypt. Rushall Castle ruins. 
 
 Grammar School. Aldridge Ch. Barr Beacon. Great Barr Park. 
 Four Ashes. Sliareshill Ch. Brewood Ch. Cliillingtou Park. 
 
 Petdcridge. Ch. Watling St. Pilaton Hall. 
 
 Stafford. St. Mary’s. St. Chad’s. Lunatic Asylum. Stafford Castle. 
 Bury Ring. Hopton Heath. 
 
 EcdeshaU . Bishop’s Palace. Ashley Ch. Muccleston Ch. 
 
 Whitmore. Camps. Village of Maer. 
 
 Madeley. Ch. Madeley Manor. 
 
 Pelsall. Castle Old Fort Knave’s Castle. 
 
 Lichfield. Cathedral. Minster Pool. Stowe Ch. St. Mary’s. St. 
 Michael’s. Johnson’s House and Monument. Ediall. Lucy Porter’s 
 House. Borrowcop Hill. Wall (Etocetum). Weeford Ch. 
 
 Tamicorth. Castle. Ch. Drayton Manor. Elford Ch. Fisherwick. 
 Alrewas. Ch. Bridge over the Trent. Croxall Ch. Wichnor Ch. and Hall. 
 Burton-on-Trent. Ch. Abbey ruins. Breweries. 
 
 Cannock. Moors. Rumour Hill. Wyrley Grove. Hednesford Training- 
 Ground. 
 
 Armitage. Ch. Mavesyn Ridware Ch. Yoxall Ch. Needwood Forest. 
 
 Beaudesert. Castle Hill. Farwell Ch. Longdon Ch. 
 
 Rugeley. Hamstall Manor House and Ch. Abbot’s Bromley Ch. Bagot’s 
 Park. Bellamour Hall. Colton Ch. 
 
 Colioich. Ch. TixalL Ingestre. Sliugborough. Scenery of Cannock Hills. 
 Haughton. Ranton Abbey. Ellenhall Ch. 
 
 Gnosall. Ch. Norbury Ch. High Offley Ch. 
 
 Sandon. Ch. Hall. Saltworks. Gay ton. Stowe Ch. Chartley Castle. 
 Stone. Ch. Stonefield. Darlaston. Bury Bank. 
 
 Trentham. Ch. Hall. Tittensor Hill. Obelisk. Saxon Low. 
 
 Newcastle. Ch. Apedale Ironworks. Keele Hall. 
 llarecastle. Scenery. Canal Works and Tunnel. 
 
 Burdein. Potteries. Townhall. Wedgwood Memorial. Wolstanton Ch. 
 Etruria. Hall. Wedgwood’s Potteries. 
 
 Hanley. Shelton Bar Iron Works. 
 
 Stoke-on-Trent. Ch. Potteries. Show-rooms of Minton and Copeland. 
 
 Hartshill Ch. North Staffordshire Infirmary. 
 
 Blyth Bridge. Caverswall Manor. Cheadle. Ch. R. Cath. Ch. Tape 
 Factory. 
 
 Crestcell. Draycott Ch. 
 
 Leigh. Ch. Checklcy Ch. 
 
 Vttoxeter. Ch. March ington Ch. 
 
 Sudbury. Ch. and Hall. (Derbyshire). Hanbury Ch. 
 
 Tutbury. Ch. Castle. 
 
 Rolleston. Ch. 
 
Introd. 
 
 vi. Skeleton Tours . 
 
 xlis 
 
 Biddulffh. The Grange Gardens. Scenery of Mow Cop. 
 
 Alton. Scenery of Churnet Valley. Alton Towers. Croxden Abbey. 
 Castle. Ellaston Ch. Calwich Abbey. Wootton. Weever Hills. 
 Stanton. Wetley Rocks. 
 
 Leek. Ch. Silkmills. The Roaches. Dieulacresse Abbey. Horton Ch. 
 Ludchurch. Rushton Spencer Ch. Rndyard Reservoir. 
 
 VI. Skeleton Tours. 
 
 a.— Tour of One Month through Derbyshire, Notts, and 
 Leicestershire. 
 
 1 . By rail from Crewe or Burton to Ashbourne. Excursion up Dovedale. 
 
 2. To Hartington, by Fenny Bentley and Tissington. 
 
 3. See Arborlow, Gib Hill, Rock Scenery at Staunton and Youlgreave ; 
 
 thence to Rowsley. 
 
 4. See Chatsworth, Haddon Hall, and sleep at Bakewell. 
 
 5. Excursion to the Lathkill and Parson’s Tor. Drive to Ashford and 
 
 Miller’s Dale ; thence by rail to Buxton. 
 
 6. See Buxton. Poole’s Hole. Excursion to Axe Edge, and back by 
 
 Staddon Moor. 
 
 7. Buxton to Chapel-en-le-Frith ; whence excursion to Hayfield and 
 
 Kinderfall. On to Castleton. 
 
 8. See Peak Cavern, the Speedwell Cavern, and Winnatts. See Odin’s 
 
 Cave, Blue J ohn Mine, Mam Tor. 
 
 9. Hope; Brough; Hathersage ; HiggarTor; Carl’s Work. 
 
 10. Eyam; Stoney Middleton; Baslow. Drive to Sheffield by Beauchief 
 
 and Norton. 
 
 11. Sheffield; by rail to Chesterfield. See Bolsover and Hardwick Hall. 
 
 1 2. By rail to Wingfield. See Wingfield Manor House. Drive from Alfre- 
 
 ton through Crich to Matlock. 
 
 13. See Matlock, Caves, &c. Excursion to Bonsall and Wirksworth, 
 
 Cromford and Willersley. 
 
 14. Excursion to Matlock Bank and Darley Dale, By rail to Ambergate and 
 
 Belper. If time, walk to Depth o’ Lumb and proceed by rail to Derby. 
 
 15. See Derby and (if open) Kedleston. 
 
 16. Excursion to Melbourne, King’s Newton, Repton, and Burton; re- 
 
 turning by rail to Derby. 
 
 17. Derby to Ilkeston, Dale Abbey, and Mansfield. 
 
 18. Mansfield to Clipstone, Birkland Forest, and Worksop. 
 
 19. Worksop to Blyth, Roche Abbey, and Bawtry; then by rail to Retford. 
 
 20. Retford by rail to Newark. See Hawton and Southwell. 
 
 21. Newark to Nottingham. See Nottingham, 
 
 22. See Wollaton. By rail to Bottesford, and drive to Belvoir. Sleep at 
 
 Belvoir Inn. 
 
 23. Drive.over the Wolds to Melton. See Melton and Burton Lazars. 
 
 24. By rail to Syston and Loughborough. Excursion to Costock Ch. and 
 
 some of the neighbouring churches. By rail to Leicester. 
 
 25. See Leicester. 
 
 [ Derby , Notts , Leic., & Staff.'] 
 
 c 
 
1 yi. Skeleton Tours . In trod. 
 
 26. By rail to Market Harborough ; drive to Lutterworth, and rejoin rly. 
 
 at Ullesthorpe stat. for Hinckley. 
 
 27. See Hinckley and Bosworth Field. 
 
 28. Excursion to Kirby Muxloe, Groby, Bradgate, and Ulverscroft. 
 
 29. By rail to Bardon Hill. See Monastery. By rail from Coalville to 
 
 Asliby-de-la-Zouch. 
 
 30. Aahby-de-la-Zouch . Excursion to Gracedieu, Staunton Harold, and 
 
 Wliitwick. By rail to Burton. 
 
 b.— Pedestrian Tour in Derbyshire of a Fortnight. 
 
 1. By rail to Ashbourne. Thence to Ham and the Izaak Walton Inn. 
 
 2. Explore the Manifold Valley with Thor’s Cave. 
 
 3. Up Dovedale and Beresford Dale to Hartington. 
 
 4. To Winster, Staunton, and Rowsley. 
 
 5. See Chatsworth, Haddon, Bakewell, and proceed to Ashford. 
 
 6. To Buxton along Miller’s Dale. 
 
 7. Buxton, Axe Edge, Hindlow, Staddon. 
 
 8. From Buxton by rail to Doveholes ; on to Castleton. See Caverns. 
 
 9. From Castleton to the Valley of Edale, Kinderscout, and thence to 
 
 Glossop. 
 
 10. Glossop to Ashopton. Excursion up the Derwent to Cakes of Bread. 
 
 11. From Ashopton along the Moors to Hathersage. 
 
 12. From Hathersage over the Moors to Eyam, Middleton Dale, Baslow, 
 
 and Rowsley ; by rail to Matlock. 
 
 13. See Matlock. Walk to Ashover, catching train at Stretton for Chester- 
 
 field ; or for Wingfield, and next morning to Chesterfield. 
 
 14. Chesterfield to Hardwick and Bolsover. 
 
 15. From Bolsover through Markland Grips to Worksop. 
 
 c. — Torn of One Month through Staffordshire and Derbyshire. 
 
 1. Handsworth Old Parish Ch. St. Michael’s Ch., Soho. Smethwick 
 Glassworks. Wednesbury. Sleep at Wolverhampton. 
 
 2. Wolverhampton Ch. Japanning Manufactory. Excursion to Tottcn- 
 
 hnll and Wrottesley. 
 
 3. To Dudley. See Castle. Wren’s Nest. Excursion to Hollx^ich and 
 
 Enville, returning by Kinver to Stourbridge, and back by rail. 
 
 4. Walsall. Rushall. Aldridge Ch. Shenstone. Lichfield. 
 
 5. At Lichfield. Excursion to Wall, Weeford, &c. 
 
 6. Excursion to Tamworth ; see Elford, and return by Alrewas. 
 
 7. Lichfield to Armitage. Excursion to Beaudesert, Mavesyn-Itidware, 
 
 and Abbot’s Bromley. Sleep at Rugeley. 
 
 8. Colwich. Shugborough. Stafford. 
 
 9. Excursion by rail to Four Ashes, for Brewood and Chillington. 
 
 10. To Stone, Sandon, and Chartley. Sleep at Stoke-on-Trent. 
 
 11. Excursion to Hareeastle, Bursiem, and Wolstauton. See Minton and 
 
 Copeland’s Show-rooms. 
 
 12. Excursion to Trontham ; then on to Etruria and Newcnstlo-under-Lymc. 
 
 13. Excursion to Biddulph. Ascend Mow Cop. Sleep at Congleton. 
 
 14. By mil from Congleton to Leek, and down the Chuniet Valley to 
 
 Alton Towers. Sleep at Uttoxeter. 
 
Introd. 
 
 vi. Skeleton Tours . 
 
 li 
 
 15. Excursion to Tutbury and Burton. Sleep at Ashbourne. 
 
 1 6. Excursion up Dovedale : return to Ham. 
 
 17. Excursion to Thor’s Cave and the Manifold ; return to Ilam. 
 
 18. Drive by Fenny Bentley, to Hartington. Then as in A, days 3 to 15. 
 
 d. — Pedestrian Tour through North Staffordshire. 
 
 1. Rail from Colwich to Weston or Sandon. Walk by Chartley to Ut- 
 
 toxeter. 
 
 2. Rail to Alton. Then walk by Wootton and the Weever Hills to Ilam. 
 
 3. To Ashbourne by Okeover, returning by Fenny Bentley and Thorpe. 
 
 4. Up the Manifold to Grindon and Thor’s Cave, returning by Wetton. 
 
 5. Up Dovedale and Beresford Dale to Hartington. 
 
 6. Walk to Longnor, Earl Sterndale, and Buxton. 
 
 7. Over Axe Edge ; by Flash, to Leek. 
 
 8. Rudyard. Rushton Spencer. Mow Cop. Congleton. 
 
 9. Biddulph. New Chapel. Stoke-on-Trent. 
 
 The tourist can thence proceed by rail to Derby and Matlock, or to 
 Burton-on-Trent for Charnwood. 
 
 e. — Antiquarian and Ecclesiological Tour. 
 
 1. Handsworth Ch. Wolverhampton Ch. Tettenhall Ch. Wrottesley 
 
 Park. 
 
 2. Dudley Castle. Holbeach. Stourton Castle. Prestwood. Enville 
 
 Hall and Ch. 
 
 3. Kinver Ch. Camp. Stourbridge. Walsall. Rushall. 
 
 4. Brewood Ch. Shareshill Ch. Penkridge Ch. Pilaton Hall. 
 
 5. By Watling Street to Cannock. Knave’s Castle. Lichfield. 
 
 6. Lichfield. 
 
 7. Etocetum. Weeford Ch. Tamworth Ch. and Castle. 
 
 8. Elford Ch. Croxall and Alrewas Ch. Rail to Rugeley. 
 
 9. Beaudesert and Camp. Farwell and Longdon Chs. 
 
 10. Armitage Ch. Mavesyn Rid ware Ch. Abbot’s Bromley. Hamstall 
 
 Ridware. 
 
 11. Colwich Ch. Ingestre and Tixall Halls. Stafford. 
 
 12. Stafford Castle. Hopton Heath. 
 
 13. By rail to Gnosall. Excursion to Norbury, High Offley, Eccleshall, 
 
 and thence to Norton Bridge for Stone. 
 
 14. Sandon Hall. Moated House at Gayton. Chartley. 
 
 15. Trentham. Tumuli on Tittensor Hills. 
 
 16. Stoke. Wolstanton. Newcastle. Madeley. Camps near Whit- 
 
 more. 
 
 17. Caverswall. Checkley and Leigh Chs. Cheadle. Uttoxeter. 
 
 18. Rocester. Ellastone Ch. Alton Towers. Thence by Stanton to Ash- 
 
 bourne. 
 
 19. Norbury Ch. Ashbourne Ch. Ilam Ch. Thor’s Cave. Hartington. 
 
 20. Arbor Low. Gib Hill. Parcelly Hay Low. Kenslow. Youlgreave 
 
 Ch. Andlestone. Corkstone. Nine Ladies. Winster Ch. 
 
 21. Haddon Hall. Bakewell Ch. and Cross. Ashford Ch. Brushfield 
 
 Hough. Tideswell Ch. Buxton. 
 
 22. Buxton. Baths. Earthworks on Staddon. Roman Road. Camp on 
 
 Comb’s Moss. Marvelstone. 
 
lii 
 
 yi. Skeleton Tours. 
 
 Introd. 
 
 23. Cliinley Churn. Bradshaw Hall. Boosdykc at "Whaley Bridge. 
 
 24. Castleton Caves and Mines. Ch. Peak Castle. Batham Road. 
 
 Camp at Brough. Hope Ch. Hathersage. 
 
 25. Hathersage Ch. Little John’s Tomb. Camp. Higgar Tor. Carl's 
 
 Wark. Cakes of Bread. 
 
 26. Circles and Tumuli on Eyam Moor. Eyam Hall, Ch., and Cross. 
 
 Cucklet Delph. Stoney INliddleton Ch. and Baths. Baslow Ch. 
 
 27. Chatsworth. Brampton Ch. Chesterfield Ch. Site of Castle. 
 
 28. Dronfield Ch. Norton Ch. Beauchief Abbey. Sheffield. Return by 
 
 Eckington Ch. Danes* Balk. 
 
 29. Chesterfield to Bolsover Castle and Ch. Ault Hucknall Ch. Hardwick 
 
 Hall. AlfretonCh. 
 
 30. Shirland Ch. Ashover Ch. Wingfield Manor House. Matlock. 
 
 31. Dethick Ch. Wirksworth Ch. Moot Hall. Dutfield Ch. Horsley 
 
 Castle. Breadsall Ch. Derby. 
 
 32. All Saints’. St. Peter’s and St. Alkmund’s. St. Michael’s. Museum. 
 
 Excursion to Etwall Hospital and Ch., and Findern. 
 
 33. Swarkestone Ch. and Bridge. Melbourne Ch. and Hall. King's 
 
 Newton Hall. Knowl Hill. Anchor Ch. Repton Ch. and School. 
 Burton-on-Trent. 
 
 34. Burton Ch. and remains of Abbey. Asliby-de-la-Zouch Ch. Castle. 
 
 Tournament Field. 
 
 35. Gracedieu Nunnery Ruins and Chapel. Belton Ch. Whitwick Ch. 
 
 and Castle. St. Bernard’s Monastery. Coleorton Ch. and Hall. 
 
 36. Old Mansion at Donnington. Bradgate Hall. Ulverscroft Priory. 
 
 Groby. Kirby Muxloe Castle. Leicester. 
 
 37. Leicester Churches. Abbey. Newarke. Jewry Wall. Rawdykes. 
 
 Museum. 
 
 38. Hinckley Ch. Bosworth Field. Afternoon by rail to Melton. 
 
 39. Melton Ch. Burton Lazars Ch. By rail to Loughborough. Ch. 
 
 Costock and Wysall Ch. 
 
 40. Castle Donington. Breedon Ch. and Bulwarks. Kegworth Ch. 
 
 Lockington Ch. Clifton Ch. Nottingham. 
 
 41. Nottingham Castle. Caves. St. Mary’s. Sandiacre Ch. Ilkeston. 
 
 Dale Abbey. By rail to Mansfield. 
 
 42. Mansfield Ch. Mansfield Woodhouse Ch. Site of Roman Villa near 
 
 Pleasly. Rock Habitations. Cuckney Ch. Worksop Ch. Con- 
 ventual Remains. 
 
 43. Excursion to Steetley Chapel. Blyth Ch. and Scrooby Palace. 
 
 Bawtry. 
 
 44. Bawtry to Mattersey Abbey. Scrooby by rail to Newark. Newark Ch. 
 
 and Castle. 
 
 45. Hawton Ch. Kelham Ch. Southwell Ch. and Domestic Ruins. 
 
 Thurgarton Ch. Burton Joyce Ch. Return to Nottingham. 
 
 46. From Nottingham to Bingham. Ch. Aslacton Ch. and Remains of 
 
 Cranmer’s Garden. Bottesfurd Ch. Belvoir. 
 
HANDBOOK 
 
 FOR 
 
 DERBY, NOTTS, LEICESTER, AND 
 STAFFORD. 
 
 ROUTES. 
 
 %* The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the places are 
 
 described. 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 I. Burton to Derby [ Repton ] . 2 
 
 2 Derby to Trent Junction, by 
 
 Castle Bonington [Mel- 
 bourne'] 10 
 
 3. Trent Junction to Chester- 
 
 field, by Ilkeston, Alf reton, 
 and Clay Cross . . .12 
 
 4. Derby to Sheffield, by Belper 
 
 and Chesterfield [ Wirks- 
 worth] 14 
 
 5. Derby to Bakewell, by Mat- 
 
 lock 23 
 
 6 Bakewell to Buxton [Haddon 
 Hall, Chatsworth, the Lath- 
 kill, Tideswell]. ... 30 
 
 7. Buxton to Manchester, by 
 
 Chapel-en-le- Frith , Whaley 
 Bridge , and Stockport . 43 
 
 8. Chapel-en-le-Frith to Bake- 
 
 well, by Castleton, Hope , 
 Hathersage, and Eyam 
 [ The Peak] 48 
 
 9. Buxton to Hayfield and 
 
 Glossop 59 
 
 10. Derby to Nottingham , by 
 
 Trent Junction. ... 60 
 
 II. Nottingham to Lincoln, by 
 
 Newark 70 
 
 12. Nottingham to Grantham, 
 
 by Bingham and Bottes- 
 ford [Belvoir] .... 74 
 
 13. Nottingham to Mansfield, by 
 
 Newstead [ Hardwick Hall, 
 Bolsover] 77 
 
 14. Newark to Mansfield, by 
 
 Southwell . , . . 87 
 
 l Derby , Notts, Leic., & Staff.] 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 15. Mansfield to Worksop, by 
 
 Sherwood Forest [ Welbeck] 89 
 
 16. Newark to Worksop, by Ol- 
 
 lerton [ Thoresby , Clumber] 93 
 
 17. Newark to Doncaster, by 
 
 Tuxford, Retford, and Baw- 
 try 95 
 
 18. Worksop to Doncaster, by 
 
 Tickhill [Blyth, Roche Ab- 
 bey] 98 
 
 19. Market Harborough to Lei- 
 
 cester [Nevill Holt] . .101 
 
 20. Nuneaton to Leicester, by 
 
 Hinckley [Bosworth Field] 109 
 
 21. Leicester to Belvoir, by Mel- 
 
 ton Mowbray . . . .112 
 
 22. Leicester to Burton, by 
 
 Ashby-de-la-Zouch . . .115 
 
 23. Ashby-de-la-Zouch to Lei- 
 
 cester, through Charnwood 
 Forest [St. Bernard's Mo- 
 nastery, Bradgate Park] . 119 
 
 24. Rugby to Trent Junction, by 
 
 Mount Sorrel and Lough- 
 borough [Lutterworth] . . 123 
 
 25. Birmingham to Wellington, 
 
 by West Bromwich and 
 Wolverhampton . . .128 
 
 26. Birmingham to Crewe, by 
 
 Wolverhampton, Bushbury , 
 and Stafford . . . .135 
 
 27. Stourbridge to Burton-on- 
 
 Trent, by Dudley, Walsall , 
 and Lichfield .... 145 
 
 28. Birmingham to Burton-on- 
 
 Trent, by Tamworth . .160 
 
 B 
 
2 
 
 Route 1 . — Burton to Derby . — Region. 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 29. Walsall to Rugeley, by Can- 
 
 nock [Need wood Forest J . 1G6 
 
 30. Tnm worth to Newport, by 
 
 Rugeley, Colwich , and 
 
 Stafford 169 
 
 31. Colwich to Stoke-on-Trent, 
 
 by Sandon , Stone , and 
 Trentham f Chartley ] . . 173 
 
 32. Crewe to Burton-on-Trent, 
 
 by Stoke-on-Trent , TJttoxe- 
 ter , and Tutbury [The Pot- 
 teries ] 178 
 
 route / page 
 
 33. Uttoxeter to Buxton, by 
 
 Ashlmurne and Harting- 
 ton [. Dovedale ] . . . .186 
 
 34. Uttoxeter to Macclesfield, 
 
 by Alton Towers and Leek 
 [Cheadle] 195 
 
 35. Stoke-on-Trent to Congleton, 
 
 by Biddulph .... 203 
 
 36. Stoke-on-Trent to Market 
 
 Drayton, by Newcastle- 
 under-Lyme .... 205 
 
 ROUTE 1. 
 
 BURTON TO DERBY [REPTON]. 
 
 MIDLAND RAILWAY. 11 m. 
 
 For Burton , see Rte. 28. 
 
 Less than 1 m. from Burton Stat. 
 a branch goes off on N. for Tutbury, 
 the Potteries, &c. (North Stafford- 
 shire line). The Midland line runs 
 parallel for some distance with the 
 ancient Icknield Street, and over- 
 looks the broad meadows through 
 which the clear, deep waters of the 
 Trent flow. At 3 m. the Dove is 
 crossed, which shortly after flows 
 into the Trent. Opposite the junction 
 is the village of Newton Solney , with 
 an E.E. and Perp. Ch., which con- 
 tains a very remarkable effigy of a 
 member of the De Sulney family, 
 clad in banded mail (c. 1300) ; it is 
 engraved in Hewitt’s ‘ Ancient Arms 
 and Armour/ vol. i. Newton Hall 
 (W. H. Worthington, Esq.) has fine 
 grounds stretching down to the river, 
 and seen from the rly. 
 
 4 J m. WHtington and Repton (Stat.) 
 Hence a line of rly. is in progress, 
 by which the present distance to 
 Nottingham (22 J m.), Lincoln, Bos- 
 ton, &c., will be materially shortened. 
 The village of Willington is very 
 small, but the Norm, doorway of the 
 Ch. is worth notice ; there is also a 
 
 handsome modern toll-bridge over 
 the Trent. 
 
 1 m. W. is Eggirdon (Stat. on N. 
 Staff. line). The Ch ., dedicated to 
 St. Wilfrid, is a small building near 
 one of the branches of the Dove. 
 Egginton Hall (Sir H. F. Every, 
 Bart.) is a modern mansion, in a 
 handsome park. 
 
 1 m. S. is Repton , the Hreopandun 
 of the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle. Here 
 Ethelbald of Mercia, slain by Ofla, 
 was buried in 755 ; and here the 
 Northmen established themselves in 
 the latter part of the 9th centy. The 
 place now possesses a richly endowed 
 Grammar School , founded by Sir 
 John Porte in 1557. which ranks 
 high among such establishments ; the 
 Rev. Dr. Bosworth, Anglo-Saxon Pro- 
 fessor at Oxford, was educated at 
 it. The school buildings are eutered 
 through an ancient gateway beside 
 the ch., and portions of the Priory of 
 Black Canons are preserved ; the re- 
 fectory now serves as a schoolroom, 
 and the masters’ house has a Perp. 
 tower of brick ; but the school Chapel 
 is a detached modem edifice ; ana a 
 large boarding-house for scholars oc- 
 cupies the site of the Mitre, a well- 
 known inn of former days. The 
 village altogether has a flourishing 
 appearance, sharing in the prosperity 
 of the school. In a garden near tho 
 ch. bases of pillars have been un- 
 
Route 1 . — Foremarh Hall. — Findern. 
 
 3 
 
 covered, together with a pavement i 
 of encaustic tiles; and in levelling 
 an adjoining field for a cricket 
 ground, a mediaeval tile factory was 
 discovered- It consisted of 2 small 
 chambers side by side, about 5 ft. long 
 and 2 in width. Each compartment 
 was arched over by 6 separate arches 
 of tiles laid with great care. At least 
 20 different patterns of tiles were 
 found here, dating for the most part 
 from the 14 th centy. 
 
 The Ch., conspicuous for its fine 
 steeple 188 ft. high, is dedicated to 
 St. Wystan. The nave is chiefly 
 of Dec. character, but there are some 
 Norm, portions, and beside the chan- 
 cel window are a few traces of the 
 long-and- short work usually taken 
 as a token of Saxon architecture. 
 The ch. contains some monuments to 
 the family of Thacker ; and in the 
 crypt is one of a warrior of the 15th 
 centy. This crypt is vaulted, and 
 the diagonal ribs and some other 
 portions are, in the opinion of Mr. 
 Rickman, “more like Roman work 
 than Norman.” There are 4 piers 
 round and twisted, and 8 pilasters 
 rather more slender than is usual 
 in Norm, crypts. They have square 
 capitals, from which a plain flat rib 
 rises to form the groining. The 
 crypt was entered through the ch. 
 by means of 2 winding passages. 
 
 1^ m. E. of Repton is Foremarh 
 Hall, belonging to Sir Robert Bur- 
 dett, Bart. The mansion was erected 
 about 1760, and contains a very 
 fine collection of family pictures. The 
 estates descended to the Burdetts 
 from a female ancestor of the name 
 of Francis. The park and grounds 
 are very pretty, especially near the 
 river, a tributary of the Trent, where 
 are some caverned rocks called Anchor 
 Church , from the story of a hermit 
 having made them his retreat. The 
 ch. of Foremark was built in 1662, 
 and is very small and plain. At 
 Ingleby , 1 m. E., is an elm-tree, still 
 vigorous, but believed to be 600 
 years old. 
 
 3 m. N. of Willington is the vil- 
 lage of Etwall , once a possession of 
 Welbeck Abbey, but given in 1540 
 by Henry VIII. to Sir John Porte, 
 one of the justices of the King’s 
 Bench. His son, also named John, 
 was the founder of a well-endowed 
 Hospital at Etwall, and the Gram- 
 mar School at Repton.. He is buried 
 in Etwall ch., which contains a fine 
 altar-tomb for himself, his two wives 
 and five children ; there is also a 
 tomb for his grandfather and grand- 
 mother (1512), the female effigy from 
 which is engraved in Fairholt’s 1 Cos- 
 tume/ 
 
 Etwall Hall (Rowland Cotton, 
 Esq.) is a 17th-century mansion of 
 brick, faced with stone taken from 
 the ruins of Tutbury Castle. It 
 contains several family portraits, to- 
 gether with the identical suits of 
 clothing that those members wore 
 when they sat for their portraits. 
 
 Dalbury Ch., 1J m. to the N., has 
 some stained glass with the arms 
 of Sir John Porte and Sir Samuel 
 Sleigh. 3 m. to the N.E. of Etwall 
 is Radbourne Ch., which has an 
 ancient font, brought from Dale 
 Abbey. The Hall is the seat 'of E. S. 
 Chandos Pole, Esq., the representa- 
 tive of the ancient families of De la 
 Pole and Chandos. Sir John Chan- 
 dos of Radbourne distinguished him- 
 self greatly in Edward III/s war with 
 France, and his brave deeds are 
 chronicled by Froissart. Leland says, 
 “ The old house of Radbourne is no 
 great thing, but the last Chandois 
 began in the same lordshippe a 
 mighty large house of stone, with a 
 wonderfull coste.” 
 
 m. A little to the N. is the 
 village of Findern, formerly the pro- 
 perty of the Fyndernes, a family now 
 extinct. There are no remains of 
 their residence, but some faint traces 
 of a terraced garden may be noticed 
 in a field, in which until within a 
 very few years “ garden flowers grew 
 wild,” to which a legend was at- 
 b 2 
 
4 
 
 Route 1 . — Burton to Derby. 
 
 tnehed, terming them “ Fyndern’s 
 flowers, brought by Sir Geoffrey 
 from the Holy Land.” The popular 
 beli» f was, that they would ‘‘never 
 die;” but they have now entirely 
 disappeared. The old Norm. oh. of 
 Findern was in 1 8G*2 replaced by a 
 modem Dec. building, which has, 
 built into the X. wall, the tympa- 
 num of the ancient Norm, doorway, 
 flanked by 2 singular figures. Fin- 
 dem was long the seat of a Noncon- 
 formist Academy, founded in 1693, 
 at which many dissenters of emi- 
 nence were educated. 
 
 0 in. On X. the village of .Vor- 
 wanton. The C/i., restored in 1862, 
 has a good corliel table. Ht. is Os- 
 mast on Hall (Sir lb Wilmot, Bart. , 
 a heavy brick and stone ed fice of 
 the time of William III. ; it contains 
 some ancient tapestry, and many 
 good modern paintings. 
 
 11 m. Derby (Hotels: Midland, 
 clo«e to Stat ; Royal, in the town; 
 both good). 
 
 Derby, the county town, although 
 presenting no very striking fixtures 
 to the traveller, is pleasantly situated 
 in a plain on, the Danks of the Der- 
 went. from which rise gently un- 
 dulating hills, particularly towards 
 the W. But this river, according to 
 some, did not give name to the town, 
 which they »ay was anciently called 
 Dooimby, a shelter for deer, a deri- 
 vation adopted by the grantor of its 
 amis, a buck couclmnt in a ]»nrk. 
 The faet. however, that it is close 
 to the Hainan stat. of Dcrventio, 
 through which tin Ryknicld Stm t 
 run fn»in Ktoccdum, disproves the 
 “ deer’* theory, and points to the 
 British wool for w.»Ur, “ilwr" (re- 
 presented by Derwent , ns the origin. 
 iK-rby was one of the Five Burglis 
 of the Pan*-*, and pri* r to the 
 Nomian ( V.nqti. 4 it i- <1 to b »• 
 held 243 burg* ■«-«•*. which number 
 had declined to 100 at tli«- time of the 
 Domesday Survey. But its principal 
 historical interest lies in later times, 
 
 when in 1745 Prince Charles Edward 
 occupied the town for a few days 
 during his expedition to England. 
 1 1 is force of about 5000 men ar- 
 rived from Ashbourne on the 4 th 
 Dec., and he took up his quarters at 
 Exeter House, a fine mansion near 
 the river, pulled down in 1854. He 
 moved no farther S.. though his ad- 
 vanced guard occupied Swarkestone- 
 bridge over the Trent Rte. 2). A 
 stormy council of war was held, last- 
 ing nil through the 5th, and at last 
 he was induced, much against his 
 own will, to retreat on the 6th, 
 though, surrounded ns he was by 3 
 armies, there was little chance of his 
 succeeding in a general engagement. 
 He levied a contribution of nlxiut 
 3000/. on the town, but his fol- 
 lowers behaved in other respects 
 with great forbearance. Some of the 
 common soldiers went to eh. to tako 
 the Sacrament, while many thronged 
 to the cutlers to have their sword* 
 ground. A very interesting account 
 ; of Exeter House, ns it existed in 
 1839, will be found in the second 
 series of 4 Miscellanies/ by I»rd 
 Stanhope (1872). 
 
 Derby has at different times 
 obtained five charters, one of which, 
 given by Richard I., contained a 
 condition, that no Jews were to be 
 allowed to reside within the lils'riics. 
 
 The antiquities of the town nro 
 remarkably few. Nothing remains 
 of the castle, save nn enclosure 
 known ns the Castle field, or of 
 the old Roman stat., save the name 
 of Little Chester Cnstra , a suburb 
 to the N.K. between the river and tho 
 rly., where Roman coins have occa- 
 sionally bom dug up. What pass 
 for the foundations of a traditionary 
 bridgr may In* sometimes observed 
 when the river is low. 
 
 Neither is anything left of the 
 Benedictine Nunnery founded in the 
 12th centv. by the Abbess of Derby, 
 or of the Outline cell founded by Wnl- 
 theof. 
 
 Derby has returned 2 M.I\s from 
 
5 
 
 Boute 1 . — Derby. 
 
 a very early period. It is a busy 
 place, with a Pop. of above 60,000 
 within the parliamentary limits, and 
 has gradually become one of the 
 largest rly. centres in the kingdom, 
 from whence various lines radiate to 
 all parts. It is the head-quarters of 
 the Midland Company, who have 
 constructed railways to Birmingham, 
 Gloucester, Bristol, and London, on 
 the S., Nottingham and Leicester on 
 the E., Sheffield and Leeds on the 
 N., with many subsidiary branches. 
 
 The Station is a very large brick 
 building; but, except in size, it is 
 far surpassed by many more recently 
 erected. As far, however, as conveni- 
 ence goes for the accommodation of 
 the large staff of the company, to- 
 gether with repairing-sheds, engine- 
 houses, &c., it is all that is required ; 
 2000 hands are employed here. It is 
 situated at the S.E. extremity of the 
 town, from the centre of which it is 
 fully a mile. The tourist will also 
 notice the large warehouses for cheese, 
 an enormous quantity of which is 
 sent away by rail. 
 
 Derby is deficient in good streets 
 and handsome buildings, although it 
 contains some fair specimens, such as 
 the Infirmary, in the London Koad ; 
 the Town-hall, with an Ionic portico, 
 in the Market-place; the Tost Office, 
 Athenaeum, and Koyal Hotel ; a large 
 and handsome Market-hall, built in 
 1864 ; the Corn Exchange adjoining, 
 opened in 1863 ; the Diocesan Train- 
 ing College; the Grammar School; 
 and the Devonshire Almshouses , 
 a modernised building, originally 
 founded by Elizabeth, Countess of 
 Shrewsbury, “ Bess of Hardwick/’ for 
 8 poor men and 4 women. 
 
 All Saints' Ch. (restored in 1850), 
 better known as Allhallows (formerly 
 collegiate), is on high ground at the 
 E. of the town, and is conspicuous 
 by its fine Perp. tower of the 
 date of Henry VII. It is 174 
 ft. in height, and of 3 stages, sur- 
 mounted by battlements and crocketed 
 pinnacles. A defaced inscription, 
 
 | of which the words “ young men 
 ; and maidens ” form a part, has 
 I given rise to the legend that the 
 tower was built by the bache- 
 lors and spinsters of Derby; “and 
 in corroboration of the fact, it is 
 stated that the bachelors used 
 to ring the bells whenever a 
 young woman born in the town was 
 married.” — Knight. It is, however, 
 more likely that the words are part of 
 the verse, “ Young men and maidens, 
 old men and children, praise ye the 
 Lord.” The tower is the only an- 
 cient part, the body of the ch. having 
 been rebuilt by Gibbs in 1725, in 
 the pseudo-classic style. The inte- 
 rior is very heavy, but it contains a 
 fine screen and many monuments 
 that belonged to the old ch. The 
 Cavendish chapel has the tombs of 
 many members of the family ; among 
 them, that of Henry Cavendish, the 
 discoverer of the chemical composi- 
 tions of the atmosphere (d. 1810). 
 Against the S. wall is the tomb of 
 “ Bess of Hardwick ; ” it is said to 
 have been erected during her life- 
 time, and under her own inspection. 
 In the centre of the chapel is a 
 sumptuous but heavy monument to 
 William, Earl of Devonshire (d. 1628), 
 and Christian his wife; who are 
 represented as ghastly white effigies 
 standing upright under a marble 
 dome, while busts of their 4 chil- 
 dren occupy the angles. There is 
 also one by Eysbrach to the memory 
 of the Countess of Bessborough 
 (d. 1760), and another by Nollekens , 
 Avith the medallion of the Earl of 
 Bessborough her husband. 
 
 In the N. aisle of the chancel are 
 monuments by Eoubilliac, Chantrey , 
 and Westmacott, to the families of 
 Bateman, Chambers, and others. On 
 the N. wall of the eh. is a memorial 
 to Kichard Croshaw, Master of the 
 Goldsmiths’ Company during the 
 Plague of London, who left Derby as 
 a poor boy, and bequeathed 4000?. for 
 the relief of the poor of his native 
 town. There is also a fine incised 
 
6 
 
 Route 1 . — Bi 
 
 slab to Canon John Law, in the 
 costume of a priest of the 16th centy. 
 A beautiful open-work iron screen 
 separates the chancel from the body 
 of the eh., and there is a painted 
 window to the memory of the Prince 
 Consort — subject, the Crucifixion. 
 All Saints’ Ch. should not be dis- 
 missed without mention of its in- 
 defatigable minister. Dr. Hutchinson, 
 who procured nearly the whole of the 
 money required for the rebuilding of 
 the body of the ch., by collecting it 
 himself. 
 
 St. Peters Ch. is a fine ivy-clad 
 Perp. building, possessing nave with 
 clerestory, chancel, aisles, and an em- 
 battled tower. The E. window (of 
 stained glass) is Perp. of 5 lights, 
 but some of the other windows are 
 Decorated. There are also a few 
 Norm, details in the interior. 
 
 St. Alkmund' s, rebuilt in 1845 
 by Stevens, is a Dec. ch., con- 
 spicuous for its tower and spire 
 205 ft. in height : it has a nave and 
 clerestory, N. and S. aisle, chancel, 
 and S. porch. Notice the ancient 
 altar-screen and the alabaster tomb 
 of John Bullock, who is represented 
 habited in gown and ruff. The old 
 church, which had Norman traces, 
 wns the reputed burial-place of St. 
 Alkmund, its founder. St. Michael's , 
 situated between All Saints’ and St. 
 Alkmund’s, lias been rebuilt. The 
 ltoinan Catholic Ch. of St. Marie 
 (to which a convent is attached), in 
 Bridge Gate, opposite St. Alkmund’s, 
 was built by A. W. Pugin, and en- 
 larged by bis son. It lias some beau- 
 tiful decorations in the interior, but 
 fails as a whole. 
 
 St. Andrew's is a fine modern Dec, 
 ch. by Scott , built mainly at the 
 cost of the shareholders of the Mid- 
 land lily. The breadth of the clere- 
 story, nave, and apsidal chancel, 
 give it a striking and minster-like 
 character. 
 
 St. Lute's is a new ch. of highly 
 ornamental character, erected as a 
 
 rton to Derby. 
 
 memorial of Bp. Lonsdale. The 
 stained glass windows by Clayton 
 and Bell, and Poujell, are very fine. 
 
 In Babington Lane, where was 
 formerly the town residence of the 
 family of that name, was a house, now 
 pulled down, in which Mary Queen 
 of Scots slept on her way from Wing- 
 field to Tutbury. Exeter House, in 
 Full Street, where Prince Chas. Ed- 
 ward lodged in 1745, has also been 
 demolished, but the oak panelling of 
 a room that served as the council 
 chamber has been preserved, and 
 now lines the walls of an apartment 
 in the Free Library (post). 
 
 The sect of Quakers established a 
 meeting-house in Derby at a very 
 early period, and, according to George 
 Fox, were first called Quakers here 
 (1650) by Justice Bennett, “ because 
 I bid him quake at the Word of the 
 Lord.” 
 
 Windmill Pit , to the S.W. of the 
 town, was the scene of the burning 
 of Joan Waste, a widow, one of the 
 Marian martyrs, in 1556. 
 
 The old mill in Bag Lane, belong- 
 ing to the corporation, is that in 
 which John Lombe in 1717, and 
 afterwards his cousin Sir Thomas 
 Lombe, established the machinery 
 for spinning or “throwing” silk, 
 previously unknown in England, 
 which the former had obtained by 
 visiting Piedmont in disguise and 
 bribing the workmen, some of whom 
 he brought over with him. He died, 
 however, soon after, as the story goes, 
 poisoned by an Italian woman em-v 
 ployed by the manufacturers whose 
 secret he had obtained. Lombe 
 certainly introduced the manufacture 
 into England, and here on a swampy 
 island in the Derwent the first silk- 
 mill was built, at an expense of 
 30,000/. Hutton, the local historian, 
 worked in this mill when a boy, and 
 relates that in consequence of his 
 small size ho was obliged to wear 
 a kind of stilt, to bo on a level with 
 his work. There are now several other 
 
7 
 
 Boute 1 .- 
 
 silk-mills in the town. In 1773 Ark- 
 wright first set up a calico-mill. 
 Derby contains also silk-paper mills, 
 some lead-works, a shot-tower, por- 
 celain-works, and several iron and 
 machine works. 
 
 A Philosophical Society, one of 
 the earliest provincial institutions of 
 the kind, was established at Derby 
 in 1772 by Dr. Darwin, and at first 
 held its meetings in his house. The 
 Society gradually formed a Library 
 and Museum (in the Ward wick), 
 where they collected many Roman 
 remains from Derventio (Little Ches- 
 ter), &c. 
 
 The whole, with many subsequent 
 additions, is now comprised in the 
 Free Public Library, which is sup- 
 ported by a rate of trifling amount. 
 One of the rooms, lined with the oak 
 panelling from Exeter House (ante), 
 is devoted to the purpose of a Derby- 
 shire Historical Museum ; it contains 
 several Stuart relics. Among them 
 notice a letter from the Young Che- 
 valier to his father, dated “ Edin- 
 burgh, Oct. 22, 1745,” just before 
 commencing his march to England, 
 presented by the Queen. The pre- 
 sent of this letter, as well as the 
 fitting up of the room, resulted from 
 the publication of “A Visit at 
 Derby in 1839,” in Lord Stanhope’s 
 Miscellanies ’ already referred to. 
 
 The y Grammar School, founded in 
 the 12th centy. by Walter Durdent, 
 Bishop of Lichfield, and endowed 
 by Queen Mary with a part of the 
 possessions of Darley Abbey, long 
 held in the centre of the to wn, was 
 in 1862 removed to St. Helen’s 
 House, a fine mansion belonging to 
 the Strutt family. Bishop Juxon and 
 Flamsteed the astronomer were 
 among its pupils. 
 
 A little to the S. of the town, on 
 the Osmaston road, is the public 
 garden, called the Arboretum. It 
 is an area of 11 acres, once the 
 property of the late Joseph Strutt 
 (kinsman of Lord Belper), who, 
 
 —Derby. 
 
 having caused it to be laid out as 
 a pleasure-ground, and planted with 
 more than 1000 varieties of trees, 
 by J. C. Loudon, presented it to his 
 fellow-townsmen for their 
 
 “ common pleasures, 
 
 To walk abroad and recreate themselves.” 
 
 The value of the land and the sum 
 expended on it is estimated at 
 10,000L, and seldom has a sum of 
 money been more patriotically ex- 
 pended. Since the original formation, 
 a further piece of land of 5 acres has 
 been enclosed and laid out. A ridge 
 thrown up in the middle gives variety 
 to the surface. The trees and plants 
 are all named, and at intervals are 
 placed seats and tasteful summer- 
 houses. The entrance is ornamented 
 with a statue of the munificent donor. 
 The visitor will notice the “Head- 
 less Cross,” 4 steps crowned by a 
 stone in the centre, in a hollow of 
 which, filled with vinegar, during 
 the plague of 1665, the money was 
 placed, so that a traffic in provisions 
 could be maintained between the 
 townsfolk and the country people 
 who feared infection. The Arboretum 
 was opened in 1840, and is acces- 
 sible to all classes without payment 
 on Wednesdays and Sundays, while 
 on other days 6d. is charged. 
 This is the first instance in recent 
 times of the formation of a public 
 garden near a populous town, an ex- 
 ample which has since been followed 
 in Manchester, Dundee, and other 
 places. 
 
 Among eminent natives may be 
 mentioned Dethick, the herald; 
 Samuel Richardson, the novelist ; 
 Joseph Wright, the painter; Hutton, 
 the historian of Derby; and Fox, 
 the machinist. 
 
 Railways. — Midland, to Birming- 
 ham, 42 J m.; to Buxton, 37 m.; Leeds, 
 73 1 m. ; Leicester, 29 J m. ; Lincoln, 
 49| m. ; Manchester, 59 m. ; Not- 
 tingham, 15f m. ; Sheffield, 37 j m. ; 
 Wirksworth, 13J m. ; North Stafford- 
 shire, to Tutbury, 11 m. ; Stoke, 35^ 
 
8 
 
 Route 1 . — Burton to Derby. — Kedleston Hall. 
 
 ra. ; Crewe, 504 m. : Macclesfield, 
 51m.; South Staffordshire, to Lich- 
 field, 23J m. ; Walsall, 34 m. 
 
 Distances. — London, 132 m. ; Bur- 
 ton, 11 m.; Chesterfield, 24 m. ; 
 Trent Junction, 8 m. ; Ashbourne, 
 13 m. 
 
 A pleasant Excursion may bo 
 made from Derby to Kedleston Hall 
 (Lord Scarsdale). The distance is 
 3 m. on the Matlock road. Visitors 
 are shown over the house between 10 
 and 4 on Mondays and Thursdays 
 at certain times of the year, about 
 which inquiry should be made at the 
 hotels in Derby. 
 
 The Park of 800 acres is pleas- 
 ingly diversified in surface, enlivened 
 with deer, and ornamented with old 
 trees and a large sheet of water. The 
 groves of oaks are remarkable for age 
 and size, one tree being 24 ft. in 
 girth. The house is of classical 
 architecture, built by Adam in 
 1765, fronted with a portico after 
 the Pantheon; the shafts of some 
 of the columns, 30 ft. high, being 
 of a single stone. On the garden 
 front is the hospitable inscrip- 
 tion “ Amicis et sibi.” The hall, 
 67 ft. high, reaching to the roof of 
 the building, is supported by 20 Corin- 
 thian columns of yellowish alabaster 
 from Klvaston ; and for grandeur of 
 dimensions and splendour of its de- 
 coration is surpassed by few halls in 
 England. It did not, however, please 
 Dr. Johnson, who, according to Bos- 
 well, pronounced it “ costly but ill- 
 contrived. Behind the hall is a 
 circular saloon, useless, and there- 
 fore ill-contrived ; the grandeur was 
 all below. The bed-chambers were 
 small, low, dark, and fitter for a 
 prison than a house of splendour. 
 The kitchen lias an opening into 
 the gallery, by which its heat and 
 fumes are dispersed over the house. 
 There seems in the whole more cost 
 than judgment ” — Boswells Life of 
 Johnson. 
 
 The gardens are very fine ; and 
 
 the collection of works of art contains 
 many paintings deserving minute 
 attention, as — 
 
 Guido. — Bacchus and Ariadne. 
 “ Very pleasing in the characters and 
 the bright cheerful effect, and care- 
 fully painted in a soft warm tone.” 
 
 Imca Giordano. — The Triumph of 
 Bacchus. 
 
 Ann. Caracci. — Orlando delivers 
 Olympia from the sea monster by 
 fixing an anchor in his jaws. “ The 
 subject is well suited to the vigorous 
 turn of mind of the master.” Mary 
 Magdalene in the Desert ; a pretty 
 little cabinet picture. 
 
 Cuyp. — A large mountain-land- 
 scape. “The tone of the distance 
 too dull and reddish.” 
 
 Jodocus de Momper. — A rich 
 mountain-landscape with the story 
 of Naaman. “ Perhaps the highest 
 work of the master, for with strange, 
 fantastic, and singularly- formed 
 wooded mountains and parts illu- 
 mined by the sun, which constitute 
 the principal claim of his pictures, it 
 combines an extraordinary size and 
 a far more graceful execution than is 
 usual. The figures of men and ani- 
 mals happily put in by Velvet 
 Breughel.” 
 
 Claude Lorraine. — The Tower on 
 the Tiber, with the mill in a warm 
 evening light. “ A picture of fine 
 effect of his later peried. The gene- 
 ral tone of the green pale, and the 
 treatment broader than in his early 
 works.” 
 
 Guido. — A sleeping Cupid. 
 
 Bembrandt. — Daniel interpreting 
 Nebuchadnezzar’s dream ; a com- 
 position of 11 figures ; most probably 
 by Solomon de Koninck. “ In size, 
 powerful colouring, effect, and ad- 
 mirable execution, the most imj)ortant 
 work I have seen of this able follower 
 of Itembrandt.” — W. 
 
 Bemardin von Orley. — A Holy 
 Family with St. Elizabeth. “ The deli- 
 cacy and elevation of the characters, 
 the admirable, tenderly-fused execu- 
 tion, render this picture one of the 
 
Route 1 . — Kedleston Hall . 
 
 9 
 
 finest I am acquainted with by this 
 eminent master ; as is mostly the 
 case with him, the tone is reddish in 
 the lights and grey in the shadows/' 
 
 Raphael. — Death of the Virgin, “a 
 small picture in his early manner.” 
 
 Nic. Poussin. — Rinaldo holding 
 his Shield to Amida as a mirror ; of 
 Poussin's early time. 
 
 Nic. del Abate. — The Virgin and 
 Child, St. John, and St. Joseph. 
 “ The influence of Correggio is very 
 manifest in this picture of this rare 
 master, which is painted in a warm 
 brownish tone/' 
 
 Jan Steen. — A Blind Beggar, and 
 2 other pictures; a clear, well-exe- 
 cuted little picture. 
 
 Portraits, by Lely, of James Duke 
 of Ormonde, of Henry J ermyn Earl of 
 St. Albans (the supposed husband of 
 Henrietta Maria), of the Duchess of 
 Portsmouth, and the Duchess of York. 
 
 36 Limousin enamels, copied from 
 Albert Durer's designs, of the Pas- 
 sion of Our Lord, decorate the ward- 
 robe. 
 
 Ad. van Utrecht. — Turkeys and 
 other poultry ; very masterly. 
 
 Jan Fyt . — Dogs and Game. “ Strik- 
 ingly true to nature, and painted in 
 his own peculiar broad rich manner, 
 and in a deep full tone." 
 
 Sir Godfrey Kneller. — Catherine, 
 Countess of Dorchester, mistress of 
 James II. Her father, Sir Chas. 
 Sedley, though himself a man of 
 most profligate character, resented 
 her elevation to the peerage, and 
 was one of the first to join the Prince 
 of Orange on his landing, saying, in a 
 bitter jest, “ that as James had made 
 his daughter a countess, the least 
 return he could make was to assist 
 in making James's daughter (Mary) 
 a queen." 
 
 Van Dyck (?). — Sir Paul Rycaut, 
 the historian of the Turks. 
 
 J amen. — Prince Henry, eldest son 
 of James I., 1603. “ Very pleasing 
 
 by truth of conception, delicacy of 
 execution, clearness and brightness 
 of tone." . 
 
 Matsys. — The Virgin kissing the 
 Child; very carefully finished, not 
 without grace. This picture is pro- 
 bably by Jan Matsys, the unequal 
 son of Quentin. 
 
 Snyders.— Dead game, a swan, pea- 
 cock, and deer. “ The light colours 
 brilliant and powerful ; the execution 
 very careful." Ducks pursued by a 
 hawk ; “ masterly and dramatic." 
 
 In the private apartments occupy- 
 ing the E. wing of the house are also 
 many good paintings : — 
 
 Carlo Dolce. — A Female Saint 
 (Ursula or Christina) with an arrow 
 through her neck. “ Of a degree of 
 beauty in form and expression, of a 
 clearness in the colouring, and a 
 delicacy of finish, which are not often 
 found united in his works." 
 
 Giac. Bassano.—N Nativity. 
 
 Domenichino. — A Landscape. “ A 
 very beautiful composition, but more 
 motley in the colouring and more 
 scattered than usual." 
 
 Guercino. — The Jews celebrating 
 the Triumph of David over Goliath ; 
 of very powerful effect. 
 
 Wilson. — Landscape ; a wood with 
 beams of light of remarkable warmth 
 and clearness. 
 
 The kitchen is a spacious apart- 
 ment, crossed by a gallery, and bear- 
 ing over the chimney the appro- 
 priate motto “ Waste not, want not." 
 
 Kedleston Ch. is of various periods, 
 but retains a Norm. S. door, over 
 which is a small sculpture. In the 
 chancel are several monuments of the 
 Curzons, one of them by Rysbrach. 
 There is a good Inn near the en- 
 trance to the park ; also a locally- 
 celebrated sulphur-spring and bath. 
 The return to Derby may be agree- 
 ably varied by proceeding to any one 
 of the stations on the Wirks worth 
 Rly. (Rte. 4), the country being very 
 pleasant. Duffield, the nearest, is 
 little more than 2 m. distant. The 
 other stats, are— Hazlewood, 3J m. ; 
 Shottle, 5 m.; Idridgehay, 7 m.; and 
 Wirks worth, 10 m. 
 
 b 3 
 
10 
 
 Route 2 . — Derby 
 
 ROUTE 2. 
 
 DERBY TO TRENT JUNCTION, BY 
 CASTLE DONINGTON [MELBOURNE]. 
 
 MIDLAND RAILWAY. 12 m. 
 
 The first 2 m. of this route are 
 travelled on the West branch of the 
 line, as far as Normanton (ante), but 
 we then turn off S.E., and reach at 
 5 m. Chellaston (Stat.), a place 
 noted for its quarries of gypsum or 
 plaster of Paris, which employ a con- 
 siderable population, and where the 
 geologist will find an interesting va- 
 riety of Foraminifera ( Introd ., p. 
 xiii.). A short distance to the W., 
 at Swarkestone, the Trent is crossed 
 by a singular bridge, the approaches 
 across the alluvial flats being up- 
 wards of a mile in length. The 
 date is about the close of the 12th 
 centy., and it is traditionally said to 
 be the work of 2 maiden sisters, who 
 were brought to poverty through their 
 benevolence. The advanced guard of 
 the Highlanders held the bridge in 
 Dec. 1745. The Ch. is partly Norm., 
 and is worth a visit. 
 
 [1 m. beyond Chellaston, the Worth- 
 ington Branch goes off S. It is at 
 present incomplete, but when opened 
 will connect Derbyshire with the col- 
 liery districts of Ashby -de-la-Zouch 
 and Warwickshire. The tourist may 
 well avail himself of it to visit the 
 pleasant little town of Melbourne 
 and its picturesque neighbourhood. | 
 6J m. On W. 1 m. Stanton, the 
 ch. of which contains several 16th- 1 
 
 to Trent Junction. 
 
 centy. monuments for the families of 
 Sacheverell and Francis. 
 
 7 m. King's Newton , a township 
 of Melbourne. Near the river stood 
 King's Newton llall , a Jacobean 
 building, accidentally destroyed by 
 fire in 1859. Charles I. stayed here, 
 and is said to have written on a pane 
 of glass the anagram on Carolus Rex, 
 “ Cras Ero Lux.” At the beginning 
 of the 18th centy. the Hardinges, 
 who possessed King’s Newton, sold 
 their ancientHall to the Cokes of Mel- 
 bourne. In the village are the steps 
 of the old cross, and the Holy Well , 
 the archway of which has a Latin 
 inscription to the effect that it w f as 
 erected by Robert Hardinge in 1660. 
 Kings Newton is noted for having 
 been at various times the resi- 
 dence of local literati. 
 
 8 m. Melbourne (Stat.), a thriving 
 town of about 3000 Inhab. It has a 
 trade in silk and thread goods, and 
 much of the surrounding land is 
 cultivated as market gardens. The 
 Ch ., dedicated to St. Michael, has 
 been restored by Scott ; it is a fine 
 specimen of late Norm, architecture, 
 consisting of nave, chancel, and aisles, 
 which are separated from the nave 
 by a series of circular-headed arches, 
 ornamented with dog-tooth mould- 
 ing, and supported by round piers. 
 From the centre rises a massive 
 tower, together with two smaller ones 
 from the W, end. Notice the W. 
 door, which has some good Norm, 
 mouldings. The chancel has a semi- 
 circular apse, or, more properly, three 
 circular apses. During the progress 
 of the restoration several singular 
 wall-paintings were discovered, the 
 subject of one of which seemed to cor- 
 roborate the tradition of the murder 
 of Ethelred’s queen by her Mercian 
 nobles. Indeed, the erection of tho 
 original ch. in the 7th centy. is 
 ascribed to Ethelred in token of his 
 grief. In the interior is a monu- 
 mental slab with effigies of Henry 
 and Elizabeth Hardinge, the ancient 
 owners of tho estate of King’s New- 
 
11 
 
 Boute 2 . — Melbourne . — Staunton Harold . 
 
 ton, who settled here in 1400. Lord 
 Hardinge, of Indian celebrity, was 
 descended from this family. 
 
 At Melbourne John, Duke of Bour- 
 bon, taken prisoner at Agincourt, was 
 imprisoned 19 years ; and here the 
 Bishops of Carlisle had a palace, slight 
 remains of which still exist. 
 
 Adjoining the village is Melbourne 
 Hall, formerly the seat of Lord Mel- 
 bourne (from whom it came to his 
 sister, the late Lady Palmerston), and 
 now tenanted by Col. Gooch. The 
 gardens are in the Dutch fashion, 
 and occupy about 16 acres; admis- 
 sion can be obtained on Tuesdays 
 after 2 o’clock, on application to the 
 gardener. 
 
 At the old Melbourne Hall Baxter 
 wrote his ‘ Saint’s Everlasting Rest.’ 
 
 2 m. W. is Knowl Hills , a very 
 picturesque spot, where a mansion of 
 the Burdetts is said to have existed. 
 The only traces of such habitation 
 now are in the series of terraces built 
 upon arches, excavated in the new 
 red sandstone, and thought to be 
 cellars. In the plantation called 
 “ The Ferns ,” a very singular col- 
 lection of mounds, about 50 in num- 
 ber, was examined by Mr. Bate- 
 man, who found calcined bones in 
 every one that he opened. “ The origin 
 of this tumular cemetery is enveloped 
 in obscurity ; the absence of pottery 
 and weapons affording no clue to 
 the age or people to which the se- 
 pulchres should be attributed. They 
 seem to be connected with the event- 
 ful period in which tradition affirms 
 the place to have been the scene of 
 a sanguinary conflict between the 
 Saxons and their Danish enemies, of 
 whose successful forays in the Yale 
 of Trent we have evidence in the 
 name of the adjacent village of 
 Ingleby, as well as in that of the 
 still nearer domain of Foremark.” 
 
 The rly. is continued to Tonge (a 
 hamlet of Breedon) and Worthington , 
 within 5 m. of Asbby-de-la-Zouch. 
 
 From the former, Breedon Bulwarks, 
 Staunton Harold, and Calke Abbey, 
 may be visited ; the distance to Mel- 
 bourne, for return by rail, being about 
 10 miles. 
 
 At the earthworks called the Bul- 
 warks, the geologist will notice blocks 
 of millstone grit built in, which are 
 foreign to the district, and were pro- 
 bably brought by the glacial drift 
 from the grit moors to the N. The 
 Ch. at Breedon (dedicated to St. Mary 
 and St. Hardulph) is situated very 
 picturesquely on a rocky eminence 
 overlooking the village, which consists 
 of an isolated mass of mountain lime- 
 stone, yielding many good fossils, and 
 supplying a large quantity of lime to 
 the neighbouring districts. A priory 
 once flourished here, but there are no 
 traces of it now left. In the N. aisle 
 of the ch., which was reserved to him- 
 self and descendants for ever by an 
 ancestor of the Shirleys, who pur- 
 chased it at the Dissolution for 100/., 
 are some fine monuments of the 
 Shirleys, and a curious oak pew, shut 
 in at the top and sides, so as to sepa- 
 rate the inmates from the rest of the 
 congregation. 
 
 2J m. SoW. of Breedon is Staunton 
 Harold, the seat of Earl Ferrers, which 
 contains a family portrait by Vander- 
 wert, and (in the ball-room ) a beau- 
 tifully painted ceiling. The N.E. 
 front was designed by Inigo Jones, 
 The visitor should notice the old 
 gates which belonged to the former 
 building, and which are particularly 
 graceful. The Ch. is remarkable as 
 one of the very few built in the days of 
 the Commonwealth. It was founded 
 in 1653, by Sir Robert Shirley, a stout 
 Cavalier, “whose singular praise it 
 was to have done the best things 
 in the worst of times, and to have 
 hoped them in the most calamitous.” 
 This inscription is on the tower of the 
 ch., the interior of which is worth 
 seeing. It consists of nave, aisles, 
 and chancel, the latter separated by 
 wrought -iron gates. Notice the 
 
12 
 
 Route 3 . — Trent Junction to Chesterfield, 
 
 carved panelling, and the military 
 relics of various members of the 
 Ferrers family. 
 
 lj m. N.W. is CaUce Abbey (Sir J. 
 Harpur Crewe, Bart.), a quadrangu- 
 lar building of Ionic character. The 
 interior contains a state bed, pre- 
 sented by Caroline, George II.’s 
 jqueen, to Lady Manners, one of her 
 maids of honour, who married into 
 the Harpur-Crewe family. There are 
 also some good family portraits, in- 
 cluding Sir George and Lady Crewe, 
 by lieinagle ; Earl and Countess of 
 Huntingdon, Duke and Duchess of 
 Rutland, &c. The Abbey was ori- 
 ginally an appanageof Burton Abbey, 
 to which it was granted by an Earl 
 of Mercia. 1 m. W. of Calke is the 
 village of Ticknall , the ch. of which 
 (rebuilt in 1842) has a conspicuous 
 spire. 
 
 From Ticknall the route (of less 
 than 3 m ) to the Stat. is over Mel- 
 bourne Common, a very pleasant 
 walk or drive.] 
 
 Returning to the main line we 
 reach at 
 
 m. Weston- on- Trent (Stat.), 
 where the large and handsome Ch. 
 has a lofty embattled tower and 
 spire. There is also a curious Jaco- 
 bi an monument to the memory of a 
 prebendary of Lincoln and his nu- 
 merous family. The line soon after 
 crosses the Trent, and reaches at 
 
 10J m. Castle Donington (Stat.). 
 The "town of Castle Donington is a 
 long,straggling place, built on a steep 
 sandstone hill, and containing at the 
 N. the remains cf an ancient castle, 
 said to have been founded by John 
 of Gaunt; also a fine ch., with a 
 remarkably good E. window, anil se- 
 veral monuments of the family of 
 Hastings. 1 m. W. is Donington 
 Park , formerly the seat of the Marij. 
 of Hastings, which had a fine li- 
 brary ; a deer-park of 350 acres 
 surrounds the house. The mansion 
 was erected from designs by Sir J. 
 Wyattrille , and has a portico sur- 
 mounted by a lantern-tower. Mooro 
 
 wrote some of his Irish Melodies 
 here. During tho war the house 
 afforded a refuge for many of the 
 French emigrants, being placed at 
 their disposal by the first Marquis. 
 
 12 m. Trent Junction Stat. Here 
 the Midland lines running E. and 
 W. (as to Newark on the one hand, 
 and to Burton-on-Trent on the other) 
 unite, and arc continued S. through 
 Leicester, Market Harborough, and 
 Bedford, to London. A large edu- 
 cational establishment, called Trent 
 College, is seen almost adjoining the 
 Stat., but the nearest villages, Long 
 Eaton (N.) and Sawley (W.) are 
 nearly 1 m. off. 
 
 ROUTE 3. 
 
 TRENT JUNCTION TO CHESTERFIELD, 
 BY ILKESTON, ALFRETON, AND CLAY 
 CROSS. 
 
 EREW’ASH VALLEY BRANCH, MIDLAND 
 RAILWAY. 27 m. 
 
 For the line between Derby, Not- 
 tingham, and Trent Junct. Stat. see 
 Rte. 10. Hence the line runs up the 
 entire course of tho valley of tho 
 Krewash (which rises in tho high 
 ground to tho S. of Mansfield), ac- 
 commodating a large and important 
 coal district, and affording the most 
 direct route between Leicester and 
 tho North. Its course is very nearly 
 the same as that of the Erewash 
 Canal ns far as Codnor Park ; and, 
 as it frequently crosses tho river, it 
 is alternately in Derby and in Notts. 
 
13 
 
 'Route 3 . — Long Eaton . — Codnor Rartz. 
 
 J m. Long Eaton (Stat.). This 
 is little more than a continuation 
 of the Junction, the space between 
 being occupied mainly with sidings, 
 coal depots, a carriage-wheel factory, 
 &c., and the dwellings of the work- 
 men. Crossing the main road be- 
 tween Derby and Nottingham, we 
 reach at 
 
 2£ m. Sandiacre (Stat.). The vil- 
 lage (properly San Diacre ) has a 
 Dec. Ch ., well restored. The chan- 
 cel, which is considerably longer than 
 the nave, has a particularly beautiful 
 E. window and a Norm, chancel 
 arch. The visitor should notice the 
 figure-heads of the doors and win- 
 dows, together with the crockets and 
 finials of the pinnacles, which seem 
 carved after the model of the water- 
 lily, a plant abundant in the Ere- 
 wash. 
 
 1 m. W. is Eisley Hall (Mrs. Skip- 
 worth), which occupies the site of 
 an Elizabethan mansion of the Wil- 
 loughbys. Some remains exist of 
 the terraced garden of the old Hall. 
 1 m. N.E. of Sandiacre is Stapleford , 
 in Notts. The Ch. contains a monu- 
 ment to the only son of Admiral Sir 
 John Borlase Warren, who was killed 
 at the battle of Alexandria. At the 
 turning of the lane to the churchyard 
 is the shaft of a cross ornamented 
 with rude interlaced work, probably 
 of the 9th centy. Stapleford Hall 
 (C. I. Wright, Esq.). On the high 
 ground behind Stapleford, E., is the 
 village of Bramcote , with a restored 
 ch. ; on the hillside is a Pagan relic, 
 called the Hemlock Stone. The Hall 
 is the seat of J. S. Gregory, Esq. 
 
 3f m. Stanton Gate (Stat.). Near 
 here are the vast ironworks of the 
 Stantondale Company. Stanton Ch. 
 (2 m. S.) has some painted windows, 
 a good altar-piece, and monuments. 
 Dale Abbey (Rte. 10) is 1J m. W. 
 
 6 1 m. Ilkeston (Stat.) ( Hotel : Rut- 
 land Arms) is on a short branch from 
 the main line. It is an ancient 
 market town, with some lace and 
 
 hosiery factories, but is mainly de- 
 pendant on the neighbouring col- 
 lieries. It stands on a hill, com- 
 manding extensive views, and the 
 ch., with its lofty pinnacled tower, 
 is a very conspicuous object ; the in- 
 terior is handsome, having painted 
 windows, a Dec. screen, and a chantry 
 chapel. There are mineral springs 
 and baths here, in high repute 
 throughout the district, and parti- 
 cularly serviceable in rheumatic and 
 scrofulous cases. 
 
 8J m. Shipley- Gate (Stat.) serves 
 the collieries in the neighbourhood, 
 which are very extensive. Shipley 
 Hall (A. M. Mundy, Esq.) stands on 
 an eminence in finely kept grounds. 
 
 9f m. Langley Mill (Stat.). Very 
 near, on W., is the Ch. of Heanor , a 
 fine E. Eng. restored edifice, consist- 
 ing of nave, chancel, S. aisle, and 
 tower, rising from the W. end. In 
 the interior are monuments to the 
 family of Mundy of Shipley, and one, 
 with rather an Hibernian inscription, 
 to Watson, the Derbyshire artist, who 
 assisted Gibbons at Chatsworth. 
 
 “Watson has gone, whose skilful art dis- 
 played, 
 
 To the very life, whatever nature made : 
 
 View but his wondrous works in Chats- 
 worth Hall, 
 
 Which are so gazed at and admired by all ; 
 
 You’ll say ’tis pity he should hidden be, 
 
 And nothing said to revive his memory. 
 
 My mournful friends, forbear your tears. 
 
 For I shall rise when Christ appears.” 
 
 Heanor Hall is the seat of J. Ray, 
 Esq. 
 
 1 m. E. (in Notts) is Eastwood, 
 a busy colliery village, with me- 
 chanics’ institute, &c., to the esta- 
 blishment of which the late Lord 
 Palmerston contributed, he having 
 property in the neighbourhood. The 
 Ch., which replaced a very old struc- 
 ture in 1858, is a handsome build- 
 ing. 
 
 12J m. Codnor Bark (Stat.) The 
 ironworks here stand in what was 
 once the park of Codnor, an ancient 
 seat of the family of Zouche, to whom 
 
14 
 
 Route 3 . — Trent Junction to Chesterfield. 
 
 it came through the Lords Grey of 
 Groby. The ruins of their castle 
 overlook the vale of the Erewasli, 
 and consist of some of the round 
 towers of the courtyard, and a few 
 walls, with windows and doorw ays of 
 the 13th centy. There is also a re- 
 markable old dovecote, the walls of 
 which are of great thickness. The 
 castle was formerly moated, and there 
 is also a large pond, believed never 
 to fail, which gave rise to an old 
 local saying — 
 
 " When Codenor 8 pond mns dry, 
 
 The lordes may say good bye/’ 
 
 The fulfilment of this prophecy 
 would liave less effect on its present 
 owners, the Butterley Iron Company, 
 than on the ancient residents, as 
 they have the much larger Butter- 
 ley reservoir at hand. The town 
 that has grown up about their works 
 is known as Ironville, at which a Ch. 
 has been built by the Company, most 
 of the inhabitants of the place being 
 in their employ. A hill rises behind 
 the park, which the visitor should 
 ascend. It is laid out in walks, and 
 has a pillar erected to the memory of 
 the late Mr. Jessop, one of the lords 
 of the manor. From this spot is ob- 
 tained a curious view over the busy 
 iron district. Aldercar Hall (F. B. 
 Wright, Esq.). 
 
 13^ m. Pye-bridge Junct. Stat. 
 [Hence a branch of 5| m. runs to 
 Kirkby, where it joins the Notting- 
 ham and Mansfield line (Rte. 13). 
 The only Stat. is called Pinzton and 
 SelsUm , both colliery villages. Near 
 the former is Brookhill Hall (0. 
 Seeley, Esq.), once, ns well as the 
 adjoining Kirby Hall , belonging to 
 the Cokes.] i m. W. of the Stat. 
 is Biddings, a collieiy village, with a 
 handsome modern E. E. ch., built in 
 1845. 
 
 16 m. Alf reton (Stat.). The town 
 {Inn: George), traditionally said to 
 liave been founded by Alfred, is 
 pleasantly situated on the brow of a 
 
 hill (Pop. 5000). It belonged, at 
 the making of the Domesday Sur- 
 vey, to Roger de Busli, the lord of 
 Tickhill (Rte. 18), and aftenvards to 
 Fitzranul^ the founder of Beauchief 
 Abbey. 
 
 The Ch ., which is mainly Dec., 
 stands on rather high ground. It 
 consists of a nave with aisles and 
 clerestory, chancel with a good Perp. 
 5-light window, and a battlemented 
 tower of 3 stages at the W. end. The 
 bays of the nave are formed by pointed 
 arches with circular piers. Notice 
 the heads that form the termination 
 of the moulding of the arch over the 
 S. porch, and also of the windows. 
 In the interior are monuments of the 
 family of Morewood, and a brass ge- 
 nealogical tablet to John Ormond 
 and his wife, daughter of Sir Wil- 
 liam Ckaworth, 1507. Adjoining the 
 town is Alfreton Hall , the seat of P. 
 Morewood, Esq., which contains some 
 good pictures, and commands beauti- 
 ful views over Normanton and Shir- 
 land. The grounds are celebrated 
 for their fine timber. 
 
 18£m. Doe Hill (Stat.), a colliery 
 village. Hardwick Hall lies about 
 5 m. N.E., but the way to it from 
 Mansfield is much to be preferred 
 (Rte. 13). 
 
 23 m. Clay Cross Junct. Stat. The 
 line here falls into the Derby and 
 Sheffield line (Rte. 4). 
 
 27 m. Chesterfield (Stat.) (Rte. 4). 
 
 ROUTE 4. 
 
 DERBY TO SHEFFIELD, BY BELPER 
 AND CHESTERFIELD. 
 
 MIDLAND RAILWAY. 37$ m. 
 
 The line between Derby and Shef- 
 field is a portion of the extensive 
 
15 
 
 Boute 4 . — Barley. — Bijpley. 
 
 system of the Midland Ely. Co., 
 which was commenced under the 
 name of the North Midland, and 
 amalgamated in 1844 with the Mid- 
 land Counties Ely. It forms one of 
 the main arteries of communication in 
 our island between London, Edin- 
 burgh, and the great clothing dis- 
 tricts. To tourists this route has 
 the recommendation of passing, in its 
 course between Derby and Chester- 
 field, through a succession of very 
 pretty scenery, the Derwent alone 
 being crossed 7 times in the first 
 10 m. 
 
 The rly., on emerging from the 
 station and giving oif the branch 
 for Nottingham, Newark, and Lin- 
 coln, crosses the canal, whence a good 
 view is obtained of the town, with 
 the tall and graceful towers and spires 
 of All Saints and St. Alkmund’s on 
 W. From the banks of the Der- 
 went, between which and the line is 
 Little Chester (the ancient Derven- 
 tio), rise low hills clothed to the 
 top with hanging woods and ver- 
 dant lawns, forming a charming 
 foreground. 
 
 1 m. W. Darley , with its modernized 
 Abbey (S. Evans, Esq.), occupying 
 the site of an Augustinian Friary, 
 founded temp. Hen. I. by Eobert 
 Ferrars, afterwards Earl of Derby. 
 Adjoining is Darley Hall (Misses 
 Evans) ; the ch. peeps prettily out 
 from the woods. There is a large 
 cotton-mill here belonging to the 
 family of Evans. At 2 m. is Allestree 
 Hall , the seat of T. W. Evans, Esq. 
 Allestree Ch. has a good Norm, 
 doorway and moulding; in the in- 
 terior are monuments to the Mundys. 
 From the opposite side of the line 
 rises the spire of Breadsall ch., near 
 which, at the Priory, resided Dr. 
 Darwin (d. 1802), whose monument 
 is in the ch. Northfield House is 
 the residence of Lady Darwin, the 
 relict of his kinsman, Sir F. S. 
 Darwin. 
 
 [At 3 m. a Branch Ely. of 6§ m. 
 
 goes oif on E. to Eipley. The first 
 stat. is at Little Eaton (3J m. from 
 Derby), where are some paper-mills 
 and stone quarries. 2 m. E. is 
 
 Morley , with a fine Perp. ch., 
 having a lofty spire, and containing 
 stained glass, said to have been 
 brought from Dale Abbey (Ete. 10). 
 There are several 15th-centy. brasses 
 for the Stathams, and one for John 
 Sacheverell, killed at Bosworth ; 17th 
 centy. monumental effigies of Hya- 
 cinth and Elizabeth Sacheverell ; and 
 in the chancel a curious inscription, 
 giving a list of the prayers ordained 
 by John Statham (d. 1454; to be 
 said for the souls of himself and 
 family. 
 
 5 m. Coxbench (Stat.). This spot, 
 formerly called St. Anthony’s Cross, 
 is in the parish of Holbrooke. Hol- 
 brooke Ch. is a very plain modern 
 building. Holbrooke Hall is the re- 
 sidence of the Eev. W. Leeke, who 
 carried the colours of the 52nd Foot 
 at Waterloo, and has published 
 several works, claiming the honour of 
 the decisive charge on that day for 
 his regiment. At Horsley , 1 m. N. 
 of that stat., are some slight remains 
 of a castle built in the 13th centy. 
 The Ch. is a fine E. E. edifice, well 
 restored ; one of the very singular 
 gurgoyles is engraved in Parker’s 
 ‘ Gloss. Architecture.’ 
 
 7 m. Kilburn (Stat.), a colliery 
 village. Kilburn Hall (H. F. 
 Hunter, Esq.) has in its garden 
 several ancient yew-trees cut to re- 
 present birds. 
 
 7\ m. Henbey (Stat.), with collieries 
 and pottery works. The Icknield 
 Street here crosses the rly. The E. E. 
 ch. has a remarkable monument of 
 mosaic-work enriched with gold. 
 Flamsteed the astronomer was a na- 
 tive of this parish (b. 1646, d. 
 1719). 
 
 9j m. j Ripley (Stat.). This was 
 a market-town in the time of Henry 
 HI., but fell into decay, from which 
 it was raised about the beginning of 
 the present century by the opening 
 
16 
 
 Bonte 4. — Derby to Sheffield. 
 
 of numerous collieries in its neigh- 
 bourhood, to which the Butterley 
 and other large ironworks have since 
 been added It is now a flourishing i 
 town of about 5000 inhabitants, has 
 many good houses and a hand- 
 some ch. ; there are also extensive 
 schools, &c. y the Butterley Company 
 contributing handsomely to their 
 support.] 
 
 Codnor Park (Stat.), on the Ere- 
 wash Valley line, is 2J m. E. (Rte. 3). 
 The Butterley reservoir is a little 
 N. of Ripley, and near it is Butterley 
 llall (J. Jessop, Esq ), the birthplace 
 of Sir Jas. Outram of Indian cele- 
 brity, whose father was an engineer 
 here. 
 
 Crossing the Derwent, and passing 
 Duflield Hall (R. Smith, Esq.), the 
 train arrives at 
 
 5J m. Duffield (Stat.), a pretty 
 English village, on the rt. bank of 
 the river. The Ch., which lias a lofty 
 tower and spire, lies between the rly. 
 and river, some little distance before 
 the station is reached. It is mark- 
 ed by features of the debased Perp. 
 style, and contains a fine monument 
 to Sir Roger Mynors and his lady, 
 1536, with their recumbent effigies ; 
 around the sides are niches with 
 kneeling figures. There is also a 
 tomb for Anthony Bradshaw, great- 
 uncle of President Bradshaw. Con- 
 cerning Anthony “ there is a singular 
 circumstance attending the history of i 
 this monument (which was put up by 
 himself in the year 1G00, and which 
 gives, beside, the figures of himself 
 and his two wives, the names and 
 figures of their 20 children), viz., 
 that when he had not very unreason- 
 ably concluded he should have no 
 further addition to his olive-branches, 
 lie had three more children by the 
 second wife, whose names and figures, 
 consequently, do not appear on the 
 monument with their 20 brothers and 
 sisters.” An absurd tradition pre- 
 vails, that this ch. was commenced 
 on another spot, but, as fast as the 
 
 workmen laid the foundations, they 
 were removed by the devil to where 
 the building now stands. Vicis- 
 situde Giffard died here in 1807. 
 Dutfield Castle, of which no remains 
 exist, was an important stronghold 
 of the Ferrers family. 
 
 [From Duffield a branch railway 
 runs offN.W. to Wirksworth, up the 
 valley of the Ecclesbourn. The 
 stats, are at Hazlewood (7 m.), Shottle 
 (8J m.), Idridgehay (10 m.), and 
 1 Virksicorth (13$ m.), all, except the 
 last, mere villages, without any 
 especial interest. 
 
 Wirksworth (Stat.) occupies a very 
 beautiful position in the bottom of a 
 deep valley, and, when viewed from 
 the wooded hills around, presents a 
 perfect scene of repose. ( Inns : George, 
 Lion). The town itself, however, 
 which was long the head-quarters 
 of the Derbyshire lead-mining inte- 
 rest, has nothing but its situation 
 to recommend it. The Ch. is a fine 
 cruciform building of Perp. date, 
 consisting of nave and side aisles, 
 N. and S. trans., chancel, with a 
 square and rather low tower. There 
 are memorial chapels of the Vernons 
 and Blackwalls, some brasses of un- 
 certain ascription, and monuments of 
 the family of Gell of Hopton, viz. 
 Anthony Gell, the founder of the 
 school and almshouses (d. 1583), and 
 Sir John Gell, the Parliamentarian 
 officer (d. 1671); also of the families 
 of Lowe, Hurst, &c. Notice, too, in 
 the N. aisle a singular rude antique 
 bas-relief of the principal events in 
 our Saviour’s life. There is a curious 
 epitaph on the exterior wall ; W. end), 
 commemorating the good qualities of 
 one Philip Shallcross, “once an 
 eminent quill-driver to the attorneys 
 of the tow n ” (d. 1787), as evinced by 
 his affection for animals. Adjoining 
 the ch. is the Grammar School, 
 founded in 1576, and rebuilt in 1828. 
 
 The produce of the lead-mines in 
 the neighbourhood of Wirksworth 
 has of late years very much decreased ; 
 
17 
 
 Route 4 . — Wirksworth. — Milford . 
 
 it was at one time the staple trade, 
 for the accommodation of which the 
 Moot-hall was erected by the Duchy 
 of Lancaster in 1814. Here the Bar- 
 mote Courts are held twice a year for 
 the regulation of the trade. These 
 courts are of very high antiquity. 
 “ The principal part of the county 
 where lead-ore is found in any con- 
 siderable quantity is called ‘The 
 King’s Field,’ and comprehends nearly 
 all the wapentake of Wirksworth, and 
 a considerable part of the High Peak 
 Headland. The King’s Field has 
 been from time immemorial let on 
 lease. The lessees (of whom, when 
 Pilkington wrote his account of 
 Derbyshire in 1789, there were only 
 two) have each in his respective district 
 a steward and barmaster. The steward 
 presides as judge in the Barmote Courts, 
 and with 24 jurymen, chosen every 
 half-year, determines all disputes 
 which arise respecting the working 
 of the mines. Debts incurred in 
 working the mines are cognizable 
 in these courts, which meet twice 
 a year, or oftener if need be. The 
 office of the barmaster is principally 
 to put miners into the possession of 
 veins that they have discovered, and 
 to collect the proportion of ore to 
 which the lessee of the crown or the 
 lord of the manor has a claim. When 
 a miner has discovered a new vein of 
 ore in the ‘ King’s Field ’ he may 
 acquire a title to the exclusive pos- 
 session of it, provided it be not in a 
 garden, orchard, or high road, by a 
 proper application to the barmaster 
 of the liberty. Should the miner 
 neglect to work the vein, the bar- 
 master may, after a certain time, 
 dispose of it to any one who is willing 
 to buy it.” — Kniglit. Here is pre- 
 served the brass dish made in the 
 reign of Henry VIII. to serve as 
 the legal standard measure of lead 
 ore in this district, by which the 
 duties payable to the crown or 
 lessee under the crown are fixed. It 
 amounts commonly to Jk in some 
 cases to ^ The vicar of Wirksworth I 
 
 is also entitled by custom to every 
 fortieth dish (of 14 pints) of lead- 
 ore raised in the parish. The hills 
 all around are scattered over with 
 half-ruined huts (here called “ coes”) 
 covering the mouths of abandoned 
 mines, and forming a singular and 
 characteristic feature in the scenery. 
 The veins of lead are found in forms 
 called in Derbyshire “ Rakes,” and 
 a curious old poem on the Liberties 
 and Customs of Wirksworth is still 
 extant, date 1653 ; — 
 
 “ By custom old in Wirksworth wapentake, 
 
 If any of this nation find a Bake, 
 
 Or sign or leading to the same, may set 
 
 In any ground, and there lead-ore may get ; 
 
 They may make crosses, holes, and set their 
 stowes, 
 
 Sink shafts, build lodges, cottages, or coes.” 
 
 The mines in this neighbourhood 
 are drained by adits, here called 
 “soughs,” driven for a very con- 
 siderable length from the level of 
 the Derwent, through the solid rock. 
 One, called Cromford Sough , ex- 
 tends to that town from Wirksworth, 
 and cost 30,OOOZ. ; it is of less value 
 in relieving the Wirksworth mines of 
 water, than for turning the cotton- 
 mills at Cromford. The Wirks- 
 worth Meer Sough, E. of the town, 
 drains a large district, and is' nearly 
 3 m. long. The mines of this dis- 
 trict were worked by the Romans, 
 as is shown by the discovery, on 
 Cromford Moor, of a pig of lead 
 inscribed with the name of the 
 Emperor Hadrian, now in the 
 British Museum.] 
 
 At m. there is a very charming 
 view on E. of the line (previous to 
 rushing into a tunnel) at Milford , 
 where the waters of the river are 
 dammed into lakelets for the use of 
 the cotton-mills belonging to the 
 Strutts, which are connected by an 
 arch thrown across the road. Make- 
 ney House is the residence of A. R. 
 Strutt, Esq., and Milford House of 
 E. Wilmot, Esq. On emerging into 
 light the same pretty view is conti- 
 nued as far as 
 
18 
 
 Route 4 . — Derby to Sheffield. 
 
 m. Helper (Stat.) {Hotel : Lion). 
 Helper is ft long .*4raggling town, 
 reaching for a considerable distance 
 on both sides the Derwent, and ex- 
 tending on the 1. I wink to the top of 
 the wooded hill. It owes its present 
 consequence to the cotton-mills esta- 
 blished In rv 177b by Messrs. Strutt, 
 who lmve converted it from an in- 
 considerable village ton market-town 
 second only to Dt rby in the county. 
 (Pop. 9000. i Tin ir mills, which are 
 at the north end of the town, give 
 work to about 2000 jiersons, whose 
 employers hnve provided for them 
 decent dwellings at a modemte cost. 
 The Derwent is us**d in working the 
 machinery, and for this purjiose is 
 dammed up by a large weir near the 
 bridge. The hosiery-mills of Ward 
 and Co., and those of Brettle and Co., 
 an* marly the largest in the kingdom. 
 In addition to silk and cotton hosiery, 
 nails are made here to a great extent, 
 as also pottery; all these manufactures 
 being due to the coal which is worked 
 in the neighbourhood to the E. The 
 situation of the town, the chief jtfirt 
 of which is on the rt. of the rly., is 
 charming. It has 2 modem churches, 
 but very little is seen in passing, for 
 the rly. is carried through Helper in a 
 deep cutting, with massive retaining 
 walls, and crossed by 11 bridges in 
 the space of little more tlian a mile. 
 The annals of Helper are associated 
 with the memory of John of (Jaunt, 
 who was a great benefactor to it, and 
 built a clm|M*|, now inrirj united 
 with a modern school-house ; and, 
 from the discovery of foundations of 
 a large masriro budding, it is believed 
 that he had a residence here. On the 
 ascending ground to W. of the town 
 is Bridge Hill, the charming smt of 
 G. II. Strutt, K**j., a member of the 
 family to which Helper owes its pm**- 
 perity. and the merits of which were 
 property recognised by a peerage. 
 
 The country to the \V . is rail of 
 beautiful scenery, the outskirts of the 
 more romantic districts of centra) 
 Derbyshire. It is a delightful walk 
 
 of 1 } m. to Depth o’ Lumb, a romantic 
 glen watered by a small stream. The 
 return may be by n detour through 
 Hti7.lt wood to Milford, making a 
 ramble of al>out 6 m. Another pretty 
 walk is to Wirksworth. b in., keeping 
 along the high ground W. of Alder- 
 waaley, from whence the pedestrian 
 will obtain wide views over the Not- 
 tinghamshire border. 
 
 On emergingfrom the rly. cuttings, 
 and passing the cemetery on £., wo 
 tind the valley of the Derwent lie- 
 come more contracted, its sides steeper, 
 and all its beauties increased. The 
 serpentine course of the river, which 
 renders it necessary for the rly. to 
 cross it 3 times and to traverse 2 or 
 3 short tunnels within 2 m. N. of Hel- 
 per; the beautiful trees which fringe 
 it, feathering down to the water’s 
 edge; and the lawn-like meadows and 
 luxuriant woods on the hill-sides, give 
 this valley the appearance of a jmrk. 
 
 M In famed Attica, nuch lo*rly doles 
 Are rarely *een ; nor can fair Tctni* buaal 
 A charm they know not ” — 
 
 sings a poet of these counties — no less 
 an one than Lord Hymn. After cross- 
 ing the Derwent a 4th time the lino 
 quits the neighbourhood of the stream, 
 and wc reach at 
 
 10 J m. Axbeboate Ji nct. Stat. 
 A branch line goes off on W. to Mat- 
 lock and Huxton (Rte*. 5, b). The 
 country here is very beautiful, the 
 little river Amber flowing W. to join 
 the Derwent, and in that same dircc- 
 tion an* the woods of Alderwosley and 
 the Udd eminence called (’rich Hill. 
 The immediate m ighUiurhond, how- 
 ever, is much disfigured by the long 
 rang** of limekiln* erected by (Jeo. 
 Stephenson ; the limestone l*eing 
 brought from the quarriiw at Crich 
 hy an inclined plane. 
 
 At 11 m., cowing the Crnmford 
 Canal, th* n i* a pretty j*vp on K. at 
 Buck land Hollow. 
 
 I I m. 117 nqtield (Stat.). Imme- 
 diately adjoining on E. are the Oakcr- 
 
19 
 
 Boute 4 . — Wingfield. — Shirland. 
 
 thorpe Ironworks, and 2 m. farther 
 the town of Alfreton (Rte. 3). OnW. 
 is the ch. of Wingfield, and 1 m. 
 SW., extending along a wooded hill, 
 the village of South Wingfield; at 
 the extreme end of which, most pic- 
 turesquely situated on a knoll, and 
 separated by a deep dingle from the 
 adjoining high ground, is Wingfield 
 Manor-house. 
 
 Wingfield (more correctly spelt 
 Whinfield) Manor House is a good 
 specimen of domestic architecture 
 of the later part of the 15th 
 centy., prior to which time it is 
 not easy to find an entire house of 
 any size all of one date of archi- 
 tecture. It consists of 2 enclosed 
 courts, the largest of which looking 
 towards the N. was devoted to state 
 and dwelling apartments, while the 
 other was principally used for offices. 
 There are some beautiful details in 
 the N. court, particularly an octagon 
 window, and a gateway which com- 
 municated with the S. court. The 
 Great Hall is 72 by 36 ft., and under- 
 neath it is a crypt with good pillars 
 and groined roof, the centres of the 
 groins being decorated with armorial 
 bearings. “ One-half of the range of 
 building to the right of the entrance 
 into the N. court seems originally to 
 have been used as a hall, which re- 
 ceived light through an octagon win- 
 dow, and through a range of Gothic 
 windows to the S., now broken away, 
 and a corresponding range to the N. 
 In the other part of this range are 
 the portal, and the remains of the 
 chapel, and of the great state apart- 
 ments, lighted through another rich 
 Gothic window.’’ — More. 
 
 The builder of Wingfield was 
 Ralph Lord Cromwell, High Trea- 
 surer to Henry VI. (d. 1455). It 
 derives its principal interest from 
 having been at different times during 
 9 years the prison dwelling-house of 
 Mary Queen of Scots under the cus- 
 tody ot the Earl of Shrewsbury, hus- 
 band of “ Bess of Hardwick.” “ Her 
 suite of apartments, it is generally 
 
 believed, was on the W. side of the N. 
 court, and communicating with the 
 great tower, from which she could 
 sometimes see the approach of her 
 friends, with whom she carried on a 
 secret correspondence, that got many 
 of them into trouble, and often 
 aroused Elizabeth’s jealousy and 
 ire.” — Hall. During the Civil war 
 Wingfield was held for the Royalists 
 by Col. Dalby, but after a stubborn 
 resistance was carried in an attack 
 by Sir John Gell, whereupon the 
 house was ordered to be dismantled. 
 A large portion of the building, how- 
 ever, remained until 1774, when much 
 was pulled down for the sake of the 
 materials ; what was then left is now 
 occupied as a farmhouse. On the 
 opposite bank is the modern resi- 
 dence of the Rev. E. Halton, the 
 owner of the demesne. 
 
 The village of Wingfield is prettily 
 situated on a long ridge overlooking 
 the vale of the Amber, and it is a very 
 charming walk of about 3 m. from 
 hence to Crich Stand, which should 
 be visited for the sake of the wide 
 view that it commands. 
 
 16 m. 1 m. E. is the village of 
 Shirland , where are some collieries 
 situated on the western outcrop of 
 the Nottinghamshire coalfield. The 
 Ch. is a good Perp. building, and 
 contains an alabaster monument to 
 the Revells, a powerful family in this 
 neighbourhood during the 17th cent. 
 
 Continuing up the valley, the line 
 passes W. Ogston Hall (G. Turbutt, 
 Esq.), formerly the seat of the Revells 
 of Shirland. The Turbutt family ob- 
 tained it by marriage with the sister 
 and coheiress of William Revell. An 
 old legend states that the arms of the 
 Revells — a dexter arm grasping a 
 lion’s gamb — were obtained through 
 a contest in the Holy Land between 
 Hugh de Revell and a lioness. 
 
 The little river Amber, which 
 bounds Ogston Park, has its rise 
 about 6 m. N.W. on East Moor. It 
 flows through a very picturesque 
 
20 
 
 Route 4 . — Derby to Sheffield. 
 
 valley, past the village of Ashover, 
 and Stubbing Edge Hall (W. Milnes, 
 Esq.). The Ch. at Asbover contains a 
 curious stone font with leaden figures 
 of the Apostles, a brass in memory of 
 James Rolleston of Lea(d. 1507), and 
 his wife, the daughter of John Ba- 
 bington of Dethick ; monuments to 
 the families of Dakeyn and Babing- 
 ton ; and a modern memorial window 
 to the family of Nodder. The ch. is 
 Perp., with square tower and spire. 
 In the ch.-vard is a monument to 
 one of the Crick family, who died 
 aged 101. On the opposite bank is 
 Overton Hall (Dr. Bright), a former 
 residence of Sir Joseph Banks the 
 naturalist. A little to the E. of tlie 
 village are remains of the old Hall 
 at Eastwood. 
 
 174 m. Stretton (Stat.), a hamlet of 
 North Wingfield, one of the great 
 centres of the coal, ironstone, and 
 limestone trades. The scenery in the 
 neighbourhood abounds in romantic 
 cliffs, the bases of which are covered 
 with wood, and the pedestrian will 
 find it w T orth his while to quit the 
 line at Stretton Stat. and explore 
 the vale, ascending near Ashover to 
 Darley Moor, and descending to Mat- 
 lock, a walk of 7 or 8 m. 
 
 A long tunnel occupies a consider- 
 able part of the distance to 
 
 20 m. Clay Cross Jr not. Stat., 
 where the Erewash Valley Illy. 
 (Rte. 3) falls in. The ch. of North 
 Wingfield, a Perp. structure, with 
 square tower, almost adjoins the stat. 
 A modem ch., built ls5‘2, mainly for 
 the use of the Clay Cross Company’s 
 workmen, is at some distance S., and 
 has adjoining an Institute and Read- 
 ing Room, with schools for their 
 children. The coal-mines here were 
 once leased by Geo. Stephenson. 
 The numerous colliery appliances, 
 together with the smoke from the 
 furnaces of the Clay Cross Company, 
 leave no doubt in the mind of the 
 traveller that he has at length 
 reached the manufacturing districts 
 
 of North Derbyshire, 'which extend 
 from herewith but little intermission 
 to the Yorkshire border. The appear- 
 ance of the country, however, is not 
 so effectually spoilt as in Stafford- 
 shire and the North, as the collieries 
 and works are a good deal scattered, 
 allowing intervals in which the real 
 beauty of the district is fully seen. 
 Hardwick Hall (Rte. 13) lies 4 m. 
 E., the road crossing a pleasant 
 moorland district, with the Notting- 
 hamshire hills in view. The line 
 now descends the valley of the 
 Itother, and at 
 
 22 m. passes on E. Wingerworth 
 Hall (Hon. F. G. Hunloke), a hand- 
 some stone building of the time of 
 George I. The estate was purchased 
 from the Curzons by Nicholas Hun- 
 loke in Henry VIII.’s reign, and his 
 grandson, while attending on James I. 
 in his progress through Derbyshire, 
 fell dead at the king's feet. The 
 old Hall was garrisoned for the 
 Parliament in 1(J43. The grounds 
 extend for a considerable distance up 
 the slopes of the hills, commanding 
 very wide views. 
 
 24 m. Chesterfield (Stat.) Hotel : 
 Angel. Chesterfield is a place of 
 considerable business, with silk and 
 cotton mills, tanneries, and iron 
 foundries, but, with the exception 
 of the parish church, it has little to 
 detain the tourist. Some antiquaries 
 identify it (or rather, the neighbour- 
 ing hamlet of Tapton) with the 
 Roman station Lutudarum,a kind of 
 emporium, to which the metals from 
 the Peak were brought. It is men- 
 tioned in Domesday, as a dependency 
 of Newbold (now one of its town- 
 ships), and in tho time of John it 
 belonged to the potent family of 
 De Bruere, to whom is ascribed tho 
 building of the castle. The tow r n is 
 irregularly built, but has many good 
 houses, and a spacious market-place. 
 
 The Ch. of St. Mary and All 
 Saints replaced, in tho 15th centy., 
 
21 
 
 j Route 4. — Chesterfield . —Castle Hill . 
 
 one that William Bufus gave to the 
 see of Lincoln. It is a very fine 
 cruciform building of Perp. date, com 
 sisting of nave, aisles, choir, and tran- 
 septs, from the intersection of which 
 rises a square tower with octagonal 
 pinnacles surmounted by a lofty timber 
 spire, covered with lead, which rises 
 to the height of 230 ft., and is re- 
 markable for its crookedness. “ 'Who- 
 ever enters the town, either from the 
 N. or the S., will be struck with 
 the singular appearance of the spire, 
 which, instead of being perpendicular, 
 is evidently much bent towards the 
 W. It is singular that almost every 
 writer who has had occasion to men- 
 tion Chesterfield has called this ap- 
 pearance an optical deception, arising 
 from the twisted form of the leaden 
 planes which cover its surface. To 
 place its real crookedness beyond a 
 doubt, the situation of the ball was 
 subjected to a careful measurement 
 some years since, when it was found 
 to deviate from the perpendicular 6 ft. 
 towards the S., and 4 ft. 4 in. towards 
 the W., giving its greatest angle of 
 inclination somewhere near to the 
 S.W. angle. Perhaps the crooked- 
 ness may be the result of accident, — 
 the effect of lightning, for example ; 
 but no record exists of any such 
 casualty having occurred to the edi- 
 fice.” — Knight's Derbyshire. The 
 chancel, which contains a very fine 
 painted window representing the An- 
 nunciation, Adoration, and Ascen- 
 sion, is separated from the nave by 
 a remarkable oak screen, represent- 
 ing figures of men bearing the em- 
 blems of the Passion, a hammer 
 and scourge, a bundle of nails and 
 spear, the cross and crown of thorns, 
 together with a device representing 
 the 5 wounds of our Saviour. The 
 visitor should notice the timber roof 
 and the armorial bearings of the 
 sovereigns in whose reigns the ch. 
 was built or added to, and of those 
 in authority in the county who were 
 interested in the restoration in 1843. 
 In the S. transept is an apsidal 
 
 Dec. chapel. The extreme length 
 : of the church is 170 ft. There are 
 among others some monuments elabo- 
 rately carved, to the family of Fol- 
 jambe, of the dates of the 15th and 
 16th cents., and a modern font 
 with beautifully sculptured figures 
 of angels. The Grammar School, 
 founded by Queen Elizabeth, was 
 restored in 1845. 
 
 1 m. N. of the town is the Castle 
 Hill, the site of the old fortress. 
 “As to the site of Chesterfield, it 
 lies so- under the Castle Hill at 
 Tapton that when it became a 
 place of note it would rationally be 
 called the field of the Chester or 
 Castle.” — Begge. The site overlooks 
 the grounds of Tapton House , at 
 one time the residence of George 
 Stephenson the engineer, who took 
 great delight in his pineries and 
 greenhouses. Indeed, his death is 
 ascribed to a cold caught by his 
 eagerness to eclipse the pines of 
 Chatsworth, which induced him to 
 remain too long in his forcing-houses. 
 He died in 1848, and was buried in 
 Trinity District Ch., Chesterfield. 
 
 The town is noted for being the 
 birthplace of several local scholars 
 and poets, and among others Pegge 
 the antiquary ; and gives the title of 
 Earl to a branch of the noble family 
 of Stanhope. 
 
 Distances. — Sheffield,. by road, 12 
 na. ; Bolsover* 6 m. 
 
 [A pleasant trip of about 12 m. 
 may be made W. across the moors 
 to Bakewell (Bte. 6). The way is 
 through Brampton (4 m.), the ch. of 
 which has a remarkable monument, 
 to Matilda de Caus, and Baslow 
 (9 m.),. where the Derwent is 
 crossed. Before reaching Baslow, 
 notice on N. the Nelson pillar on 
 East Moor (1010 ft.), from which 
 there is a fine view over Chatsworth 
 Park. The Kobin Hood Inn on this 
 moor is a place of great resort in the 
 grouse season.] 
 
22 
 
 Route 4 . — Derby to Sheffield . 
 
 25$ m. Sheepbridge , or Whittington 
 Junct. Stat. Hence are two routes to 
 Sheffield : (1) by the Chesterfield 
 and Masbro’ branch (14$ m.) and (2) 
 the direct line through Dronfield 
 (12 m.). The villages of Whitting- 
 ton and Nnc Whittington lie N. of 
 the stat. The collieries, ironworks, 
 and brickworks render the place a 
 scene of great activity. The ch. 
 was rebuilt in 1863. Pegge, the an- 
 tiquary, was the rector of this parish, 
 and died here. To the W. lies Whit- 
 tington Moor, where the 4th Earl 
 of Devonshire and other members 
 of the Whig party met to concert 
 measures for the Revolution of 1688. 
 The village inn has replaced one 
 where they sometimes found shelter 
 from the weather, and is known ns 
 44 Revolution House.’ Its former sign 
 was the Cock and Pynot (local for 
 magpie). 
 
 (1) On the Masbro’ branch, we 
 reach at 
 
 28$ m. Stareley (Stat.), the seat 
 of vast ironworks, at which upwards 
 of 2000 men are employed. A suburb, 
 called Barrow Hill, very neatly built, 
 and with a handsome church, erected 
 in 1863, is almost entirely inhabited 
 by them. The ironwork for the 
 Exhibition of 1862 was cast here. 
 The old hall at Staveley, now the 
 rectory, although greatly altered and 
 modernized, is still in existence. It 
 was formerly the seat of the Fres- 
 chevillcs, one of whom defended it 
 against the Parliament, and was in 
 1664 made Lord Frescheville, but 
 his title died with him. The ch. 
 contains 2 brasses, for Peter Fresche- 
 ville (esquire to Henry VI.) and his 
 family, beside other monuments, and 
 a fine stained glass window put up 
 by Lord Frescheville in 1676. 
 
 A viaduct of 5 arches, 3 in the 
 centre being straight, while those at 
 the 2 extremities are askew, to suit 
 the directions of the Kckington road 
 and the Rother, which cross each 
 other at rt. angles, is traversed on 
 the way to 
 
 30$ m. Eckington (Stat.), near 
 JienishaWy the beautiful seat of Sir 
 G. Sitwell, whose hanging woods 
 cover the hills on W. The town of 
 Eckington, about 1 m. to the W. of 
 the stat, is very prettily situated, 
 and contains a picturesque old ch., 
 with good spire. Of the ancient 
 castle only the site remains, and there 
 is a slight trace of an earthwork, 
 known as the Danes* Balk, to the 
 N. of the town. Spink Hill, 1 m. 
 E. of the rly., is conspicuous for its 
 Roman Catholic college and ch., with 
 lofty spire. Eckington is a busy 
 place, with some foundries for making 
 scythes and sickles. The Renishaw 
 furnaces are close to the stat. 
 
 [A pleasant excursion may bo 
 made from Eckington to Worksop, 
 diverging to the S. for the purpose of 
 visiting Markland Grips. 
 
 2$ m. JBarlbormgh. a colliery vil- 
 lage, with a large Perp. ch. Barl- 
 borough Hall (W. de Rodes Hat- 
 field, Esq.) is a fine Elizabethan 
 house, built by Sir John Rodes, and 
 is remarkable for the beautiful avenue 
 of trees by which it is approached. 
 One of the apartments contains 
 a magnificent stone chimney-piece, 
 covered with figures and armorial 
 bearings of the Rodes family. At 
 3$ m. rt. is the village of Clown, 
 where the ch. has Norm, portions. 
 1 m. S. is Elmton , the birth and 
 burial place of Jedediah Buxton, the 
 calculator. At 4$ m. the tourist 
 enters the romantic dell of Marldand 
 Grips , than which, though on a small 
 scale, there is nothing prettier in the 
 county. Follow the course of the dell 
 to Crosswell Crags, and then turn N. 
 to Whitwell, from whence to Work- 
 sop, skirting the demesne of Worksop 
 Manor, it is a little over 6 m. Whit- 
 well Ch. is a large cruciform build- 
 ing. with Norm, tower. Whittcell 
 Hall , adjoining the village, was the 
 seat of Sir Roger Manners. A little 
 to the 1. of Firbcck Gate, between 
 Whitwell and 'Worksop, are the ruins 
 
23 
 
 Route 5 . — Derby to Bakewell. 
 
 of Steetley chapel, of Norm. date. 
 The whole of this excursion from 
 Eekington Stat. to Worksop will be 
 about 13 m.] 
 
 35} m. Woodhouse Junction Stat. 
 The Midland line runs N. to Rother- 
 ham (6 m.), hut by the Manchester, 
 Sheffield, and Lincolnshire Ely. we 
 proceed’N. W., passing Darnall (Stat.), 
 and reach at 
 
 40 m. Sheffield (Victoria Stat.). 
 Hotel: Victoria, good. See Hand- 
 book for Yorkshire. 
 
 (2) By the direct line we reach at 
 
 27} m. Tinstone (Stat.) ; and at 
 
 29 m. Dronfield (Stat.). Both 
 these are in a busy colliery district, 
 and there are several iron-foundries, 
 agricultural implement works, and 
 edge-tool factories. Dronfield, once 
 a market-town {Inn: Blue Posts), 
 stands on the small river Drone, an 
 affluent of the Bother, and has a fine 
 Dec. church, with lofty spire, on a 
 hill S. of the town. It contains a 
 Brass (1399) to two priests, bro- 
 thers, named Gomfrey, and some 
 tombs of the Fanshawes, one of 
 whom founded the grammar school, 
 t. Eliz., and was the great grand- 
 father of Sir Richard Fanshawe, the 
 well-known ambassador to Spain. 
 
 33} m Beauchief (Stat.). The 
 village is very small, and is only 
 remarkable for its Ch ., which is a 
 fragment of the ancient abbey (de 
 Bello Capite), founded by Fitzra- 
 nulf, one of the murderers of Becket. 
 The remains consist of a noble Trans. 
 Norm, tower, and a portion of the 
 nave, now somewhat modernized and 
 adapted to the Reformed service. 
 There are three beautiful archways 
 of Norm, date, one of which leads 
 into the ch. The W. window is 
 modern. The interior contains a 
 memorial window and sculpture to 
 the memory of Mr. Burnell, an an- 
 cestor of the present owner of the 
 property, W. B. Smith, Esq. 
 
 2 m. E. is the village of Norton , 
 
 where an obelisk of Cheesewring 
 granite, together with a monument 
 in the ch., have been raised to the 
 memory of Chantrey the sculptor, 
 who was born in 1781, at a house, 
 which has been modernized and 
 spoilt, at Jordansthorpe, to the 1. 
 of the village, whence Chantrey, in 
 his early days, used to carry milk to 
 Sheffield. Norton Ch. contains some 
 interesting monuments to the Blyths, 
 two members of which family were 
 respectively bishops of Lichfield and 
 Salisbury (1493, 1503), and whose 
 old timbered residence still remains 
 at Norton Lees, between Norton and 
 Sheffield. Adjoining the village are 
 Norton Hall, the beautiful seat of 
 C. Cammell, Esq., and the Oaks (Mrs. 
 Bagshawe). 
 
 Passing JEcclesaTl and Heeley 
 (Stats.), both in Yorkshire, we reach 
 at 
 
 37} m. Sheffield (Victoria Stat.). 
 See Handbook for Yorkshire . 
 
 ROUTE 5. 
 
 DERBY TO BAKEWELL, BV MATLOCK. 
 
 MIDLAND RAILWAY. 25} m. 
 
 For the country from Derby to 
 Ambergate Junction, 10} m., see 
 Rte. 4. The route hence to Bakewell 
 and Buxton lies through a succes- 
 sion of the finest valleys of Derby- 
 shire, in which the characteristic 
 features of the county are fully 
 displayed. As far as Rowsley the 
 rly. follows the course of the Der- 
 went, and from that point to Buxton 
 accompanies the Wye during the 
 whole of its career, Rom the con- 
 
24 
 
 Route 5 . — Derby to Baketcell. 
 
 flucnee to near its source. Quitting 
 the stat, and panning tlio limekilns 
 at Ambergate. tin* line enters a nar- 
 row valley, bounded on W. by the 
 hanging woods of Aldmrattey Park , 
 (A. F. Hurt, Esq. . famous for its 
 oak timber, and on K by those of 
 Crieh Chase. By ascending the hill 
 for a little distance, a singular and 
 impnwive view is gnined. 
 
 Alderwasley (locally, Armwslea) 
 was once a j*art of the ancient park 
 of Helper. and belonged successively 
 to the Ferrara, the Karls of I Lan- 
 caster, and the I. owes, a descendant 
 of whom married the ancestor of 
 the present owner. A portion of the 
 estate, called ‘ Shyning Cliff/' was 
 gmnt«il by Edward I., according to 
 tradition, in the following quaint 
 rhyme : — 
 
 “ I *rv1 men* 
 
 Givi* lb<*e and thyne 
 Mltrnw Hay and Nhyninjc Cliff. 
 
 Wbll« gr*w Ij green ami Urj i ryffo '* 
 
 [plentiful]. 
 
 A short distance N.W. of Alder- 
 wasley is Wigiecll Grange, the scene 
 of an atroeiou* murder in 184 >3 ; the 
 victim. M as Goodwin, is interred in 
 the Wirksworth cemetery. 
 
 13 m. (fmm Derby) WhatMamUrell 
 (locally, Watsall . Bridge 'Stat.). 
 
 h .) 1 m. K. is the handsome 
 Ck, of Crick , which contains several 
 monuments of the Dixie family, and 
 a curious hrasa for a child (1639). 
 The neighbourhood is a busy one, 
 atone quarri* *, lead mines. stocking 
 factories, and a gunpowder magn- 
 sine, bc.ng scattered around. 
 
 The |Hd«strmn should take the 
 road on K. to tin* summit of Crieh 
 Hill. Tho views during the ascent 
 are lovely, embracing, to the W„ the 
 valley of the I^rwent. the woodi 
 and park of Alder washy, and 
 Hurst, while to the K. njirn* out 
 the extensive district of H aiadalc, 
 larkol up by the Nottinghamshire 
 hill*. 
 
 Crick Hill . 950 ft., is the western 
 boundary of tho carboniferous lime- 
 
 stone that forms the belt of the Not- 
 tinghamshire coal Acid, and extends 
 through the largest |s»rtion of Derby- 
 shire. It is rich not only in limestone, 
 which is qunrricd and sent down tho 
 incline to Ainbergato, lmt in lead-ore. 
 The summit is eap|H*d by a look- 
 out tower, known far and wido 
 as C rick Stand , which, as well 
 as the Churck , commands a splendid 
 view, extending on a clear day) ns 
 far as Lincoln Cathedral. Tho 
 tourist, instead of returning by 
 the same road, should follow ono 
 that runs along the brow of the hill, 
 passing E. of Lea //tint/, the beau- 
 tiful Elizabethan villa of W. Nightin- 
 gale, Esq., the occasional residence 
 of Florence Nightingale, and emerg- 
 ing into the high road to Cromford 
 or Matlock by a lane leading from 
 Lea and Dcthick. 
 
 The rly. now crosses the Derwent, 
 and, passing through a tunnel, arrives, 
 aAer a very romantic course, at 
 
 15} in. Crom/ord 'Stat X where tho 
 boldest scenery may lie said to 
 commence; and at lt>} in the line 
 reaches Mattock Jtatk Stat.), where 
 the tourist will probably put up for 
 the night ; but ne is recommended 
 to quit the rail at Cromford Stat., 
 and thence enter Matlock by the road, 
 Matlock Dale, as this portion of tho 
 vale of the Derwent is milt'd, is a 
 narrow, winding, and very striking 
 defile, one of the grandest of tho 
 numerous ruptures of the mountain 
 limestone occurring in 1)« rbyshirc, 
 and little inferior to Dovcdnlc. 
 
 Fmm Cmmfbnl bridge there is a 
 good view" of Witlcrdcy ('attic, the ex- 
 tensive mansion of F. Arkwright, Esq., 
 locked by woods mid watnl on a 
 platform on the hillside, whence a 
 sloping lawn. sprinkled with beautiful 
 fon-wt-tris-js, swei i«s down to tho 
 wiki «*lgn The liousr, which is not 
 shown, contains, among other point- 
 ings, some by Wright of Derby. Tho 
 gardens and grounds extending up to 
 the rurka of Wild Cat Tor, and facing 
 
25 
 
 Route — Cromford . — Matlock Rath . 
 
 S earthing Tor, form one of the chief hood is obtained from the top of 
 sights of Matlock, and are open to Stonnis, called also “ The Black 
 
 the public on Mondays. 
 
 Close to the bridge is Cromford 
 Church , founded and partly endowed 
 by the late Sir Bichard Arkwright, 
 and containing his grave, together 
 with a monument by Chantrey to 
 the memory of Mrs. Arkwright and 
 her children. A little farther on are 
 the mills of the Arkwrights, and 
 the town of Cromford , now a small 
 market-town of about 1000 Inhab. 
 
 ( Inn : Greyhound.) This place, the 
 cradle of the cotton manufacture, was 
 a crown manor at the Domesday 
 Survey, and only rose to notice 
 about 1771, when Sir B. Arkwright 
 built a cotton-mill, the first in Der- 
 byshire, which, with 2 others subse- 
 quently erected, still employs a large 
 number of hands. As late as 1836 
 Arkwright’s original water-frames 
 were in existence. The machinery 
 is turned by the stream of an adit 
 for draining mines, called Cromford 
 Meer Sough, whence also is derived 
 the chief supply of water for the 
 Cromford Canal, which begins near 
 this. In addition to this, Bonsall 
 Brook, which rises W. of Matlock, 
 sets in motion several mills for 
 grinding mineral colours, a consider- 
 able quantity of which is made here. 
 At the entrance of the town the 
 road to Matlock turns sharply to the 
 rt. through a cleft in the rock, 200 
 ft. deep, called Scarthing Nick. In 
 an instant we find ourselves in Mat- 
 lock Dale, with Cromford shut out 
 from view. The old bridle-road 
 makes a considerable ascent and de- 
 scent, and a wide circuit, to reach 
 Matlock. 
 
 The hill called Cromford Moor 
 (now brought into cultivation), S. of 
 the town, was naturally a barren tract. 
 Though poor above, it was once rich 
 in mineral wealth, and commands 
 from its upper part a most extensive 
 view over the rich and well-wooded 
 valley of the Derwent. One of the 
 finest prospects in this neighbour- 
 ly DerSy , Notts , Leic., & Staff . ] 
 
 Bocks,” a lofty projecting promontory 
 of gritstone, which here overlies the 
 limestone. Its ascent is a favourite 
 excursion from Matlock. It is con- 
 spicuous from its tuft of black firs, 
 and is skirted at its base by the 
 High Peak Railway , a mineral line, 
 which runs from the Cromford Canal 
 to the Peak Forest Canal at Whaley 
 Bridge in Cheshire (Bte. 7). The 
 undertaking cost nearly 200,000Z. 
 and did not answer as a commercial 
 speculation, but it is now leased in 
 perpetuity to the London and North- 
 Western Company. It is carried by 
 a long inclined plane from Lea, up 
 the high hills behind Cromford, 
 passes near Hartington, Church 
 Sterndall, and Buxton, and has a 
 total length of 34 m. 
 
 In proceeding towards Matlock, 
 the hill called Masson, rising on the 
 W., is conspicuous, as the dale is 
 entered, while a little farther a bold, 
 wall-like cliff* of mountain limestone 
 is seen, called, from a supposed re- 
 semblance to the hills near Quebec, 
 “ The Heights of Abraham.” At its 
 foot, wedged in between the hills and 
 the river, lies 
 
 Matlock Bath ( Hotels : New Bath ; 
 Walker’s, very comfortable; the 
 Temple), well situated 100 ft. above 
 the river. There are numerous lodg- 
 ing-houses and so-called museums, 
 alias shops for the sale of minerals 
 and petrifactions, which are largely 
 manufactured here, together with 
 articles of various kinds cut out of 
 Derbyshire spars and marbles, the 
 staple production of the place. In 
 addition to the inns, lodging-houses, 
 and shops, of which the place is 
 composed, there is a modern Gothic 
 church, built 1841, in a very pictur- 
 esque situation. 
 
 Matlock presents some of the most 
 striking scenes in the county, of 
 which Lord Byron says, “ I can 
 assure you there are things in Der- 
 c 
 
26 
 
 Route 5 . — Derby to BalriceU. 
 
 byshirc as noble as Grocer or Switz- 
 erland" Ho was a frequent visitor 
 here, particularly during the time of 
 his attachment to Mary Chaworth, 
 the heiivss of Annesley. 
 
 The mineral waters of Matlock 
 are abundantly charged with car- 
 bonic acid pis ; they are only luke- 
 warm. having a temperature of 
 08° Fahr.. ami are of no great ce- 
 lebrity, but an' used in Imths situated 
 nmr the principal hotels. The first 
 primitive hath was erected in 1(»98. 
 After supplying the baths the water 
 is conducts! to the petrifying or en- 
 rnisting wi lls, receptacles in which va- 
 rious articles, such as birds, animals, 
 fruits, plants, wigs, and binls* nests, 
 are subject* d to the spray from the 
 water as it fnlls in driblets over 
 them, ami in passing deposits u|mn 
 them a fiortion of its superabundant 
 lime, dissolved by agency of the 
 carl»onic acid with which the water 
 is impregnated. The calcareous 
 matter is derived from the limestono 
 rocks through which the waters pass, 
 and out of which the springs issue, 
 at the height of uhoilt 1 00 ft. above 
 the level of the road. As soon ns 
 the acid is dissipated by coming in 
 contact with the ntmosphere, a |«nrt 
 of the lum falls down, and thus the 
 Matlock springs have in the course 
 of ages deposited a vast mass of 
 |>onou* tufa rork, enveloping plants, 
 mots* «. leaves, and shells. This 
 depict lias neeutiiulnt* *1 into a sort 
 of terrace extending along the rt. 
 honk of the Derwent, especially near 
 tiie old 1 4i tlui. This is the same sub- 
 stance that encrusts the hedgehog*, 
 chestnuts, Ac., which are innerumtely 
 mill to be jictrifiod or convert**! 
 into stone. A whole flotilla of plea- 
 sure-boats will In? found on the Der- 
 went. They aro sometime* used hv 
 visitor! to take an a*|iiatic prome- 
 nade. limited, however. l»y rocks 
 and weir* in the river-bed to } m. 
 up and down, but more frequently 
 employed to ferry them over to the 
 K. honk of the river, to the Lc/rcr#' 
 
 TFaflr, from which pleasant paths 
 strike up in zigzags. Passing 
 “ Dido'* Core" an old mine), and 
 thence along the face of the cliff* to its 
 very summit, a new survey may be 
 nuido of Matlock, and a view gained 
 into another valley behind, hounded 
 by the Riber Hill. There is one path 
 to ascend, and another to descend to 
 the Derwent. 
 
 Among the sights of Matlock are 
 its Ctirrrns, which every stranger is 
 expected to visit, ami tor which the 
 usual charge is Is. A toilsome walk, 
 mainly in dirt nnd darkness, nnd a 
 pnin in the back from stooping, are 
 in general the principal results of 
 such an expedition. The chief of 
 them arc the Cumberland Cavern, 
 the Rutland, the Xew Speedwe ll, the 
 High Tor Grotto, nnd the Devonshire 
 Cave, none of which are anything 
 more than wnrked-out mines. When 
 properly lighted up, however, as they 
 occasionally are, the effects are un- 
 commonly fine. 
 
 The gorge of Matlock ninsK tween 
 the limestone hills in a direction 
 nearly due N. and S. The meky 
 cliffs on the K. side an' the most 
 precipitous, hut are beautifully 
 Hotbed at their base with foliage. 
 Every isolated eminence is distin- 
 ! guished by a name, to which is usually 
 appended the common npjwllntion of 
 Tor: thus above Willrnlev rises 
 
 Wild Cat Tor, and fronting the new 
 Ixith is Hag Tor. The />»ir»*/ron 7V>r, 
 or Romantic Rocks, near the Cuiiil**r- 
 land Cavern, are on tin Mok^ju or W. 
 side, while rising from tie oppitute 
 lmnk is Ili'jh Tor , the noblest all. 
 nnd remarkably rich in fosnils nnd 
 shells of the cnrlsmifcrous formation. 
 " In the envem at tho lwiso of the 
 High Torn ln-d of tnndstnnc is uren on 
 the floor, beneath the limestone strata 
 of which tho cliff* is aom posed, and 
 may lie traced ncrom tlr river to 
 the ojipodtc escarpment of Masson * 
 Hill, where it is rxjv^rd on the road- 
 side.’" — Montrfi. Agreeable walks 
 
 liave been carried np tlio steep 
 
Route 5 . — Matloch Bath 
 
 27 
 
 heights on both sides of the val- 
 ley; but, being for the most part 
 private property and leased out, they 
 are accessible only on paying toll. 
 Indeed, the tourist will soon find 
 with what ingenuity the people of 
 Matlock manage to make him pay 
 “backsheesh,” enough to exhaust a 
 good amount of small change, for the 
 privilege of beholding their charming 
 landscapes. Nevertheless, he should 
 on no account omit to ascend the 
 Heights of Abraham, and the still 
 loftier summit of Masson, 900 ft. above 
 the Derwent, and 1100 ft. above the 
 sea-level. The view i$ wondrously 
 fine from the summit, embracing the 
 whole of the dale with the long broken 
 line of Tors opposite, backed up by 
 the more regular outlines of Riber, 
 Tansley, and Darley Moors. 
 
 “ Proud Masson rises rude and bleak. 
 And with misshapen turrets crests the 
 Peak ; 
 
 Old Matlock gapes with marble jaws be- 
 neath, 
 
 And o’er scared Derwent bends her flinty 
 teeth.” — Darwin. 
 
 The descent may be varied by 
 going round by Bonsall village (where 
 there is a good church, restored by 
 Christian ), and following the course 
 of its little stream, studded with mills ' 
 which it sets in motion, to Cromford, 
 and thence through Scarthing Nick 
 back to the Wells. The round will 
 be about 7 m. 
 
 The limestone districts of Derby- 
 shire abound in ferns, among which 
 are Cystopteris fragilis, Polypodium 
 calcareum, the Beech and Oak ferns, 
 Moonwort, Maidenhair, Asplenium 
 adiantum nigrum and viride, &c. 
 Smedley, opposite Walker’s Hotel, 
 Matlock Bath, and Hallam, at the 
 Romantic Rocks, keep ferns for sale. 
 
 Matlock is a good point from 
 whence to make Excursions , whether 
 long or short. Some of the chief 
 places are at the following distances : 
 — Crich Hill, 4 m. ; Bakewell, 9 ; 
 Rowsley, 5J ; Wirksworth, 3 ; Dar- 
 ley Dale, 3; Chatsworth, 10 ; Haddon 
 
 Hall, 7 ; Wingfield Manor, 7 ; Hard- 
 wick, 17 ; Ilam for Dovedale, 16 ; 
 Tissington, 12. 
 
 Among the shorter excursions may 
 be particularly mentioned — 
 
 (1.) To Dethick and Lea, the road 
 to which turns up the hill at Crom- 
 ford Stat., leading up a very steep 
 ascent to the high table-land of De- 
 thick Moor. There is here a fine old 
 Perp. ch., on the S. wall of which are 
 sculptured the arms of the Babingtons, 
 whose hall was adjoining, and some 
 slight portions of which are still in- 
 corporated in a farmhouse. Anthony 
 Babington, of Dethick, was executed 
 at Lincoln’s Inn for high treason in 
 1586. 
 
 From hence the return may be over 
 Riber, descending near the rly. stat. 
 
 (2.) To Wirksworth by Bonsall and 
 Middleton, returning by Cromford. A 
 charming pathway leads by the side 
 of Harp Edge to Bonsall , a very 
 pretty and primitive village, with a 
 small inn, betokening by its sign, 
 “The Pig of Lead,” the calling of 
 the inhabitants. The old market- 
 cross, of the date 1678, still re- 
 mains. The Ch. (restored) consists 
 of nave, aisles, and chancel, with a 
 tower and spire, the latter singularly 
 ornamented. Up Bonsall Dale runs 
 the road to Via Gellia, one of the 
 prettiest rides in the neighbourhood 
 of Matlock. From its name the 
 visitor would conclude it to be a 
 Roman road, but it was so called 
 in compliment to the family of Gell 
 of Hopton, through whose estate it 
 passes. From hence follow the road 
 up Middleton Wood, and ascend by 
 Sally Edge to the mining village of 
 Middleton, soon after passing which 
 Wirksworth is reached (Rte. 4). 
 Hence to Cromford is 3 m. 
 
 Quitting Matlock Bath, the rly, 
 burrows under the High Tor, and, 
 crossing the Derwent, arrives at 
 c 2 
 
28 
 
 Route 5 . — Derby to Bakewell. 
 
 17 J m. Matlock Bridge (Stat.). The 
 scenery here will probably be pre- 
 ferred by many to that of Matlock 
 Bath, from its more open character, 
 the old village of Matlock, as primi- 
 tive as the other is fashionable, 
 being situated at the convergence 
 of two valleys descending from 
 Tansley Moor to join the widening 
 dale of Derwent. Five turnpike- 
 roads meet at the bridge, viz. to 
 Bakewell, Ambergatc, Stretton, Win- 
 ster, and Chestertield. 
 
 Matlock Bank , which lies to the 
 N. of, and opposite the village, has 
 of late years obtained a notoriety 
 for its hydropathic establishments, 
 a better situation for which could 
 not be obtained. liiber Castle , built 
 by Mr. Sinediey as a residence and 
 hydropathic institution, is a land- 
 mark for miles round. 
 
 The Ch. % w'liich has a fine pinna- 
 cled tower, is placed on a cliff of 
 curiously striated limestone, called 
 Church Tor ; behind it once lay a 
 cromlech, resembling the Logan 
 stone of Cornwall, but it was broken 
 up a good many years ago to make 
 fences. In the interior of the ch. 
 some old funeral garlands, at one 
 time common in Derbyshire, but now 
 out of use, may still be seen hanging. 
 Some are also preserved in the ch. 
 of Ashford, near Bakewell (Rte. 6). 
 These chaplets, made of paper, in 
 imitation of flowers, and having in- 
 side a pair of white gloves, were for- 
 merly borne before the corpse of a 
 young maiden, and afterwards hung 
 up in the church. This custom is 
 alluded to by Washington Irving 
 in his ‘Sketch Book.* The visitor 
 should notice the roof, which is orna- 
 mented witli |Hiintings representing 
 Scripture scenes. 
 
 After leaving Matlock Dale, the 
 scenery of the valley of the Derwent 
 l>ecomes comjmrntively tame, though 
 the country is rich in pasture-lund 
 a id timber. The rlv. at 18 m. passes 
 at some distance \\\ the isolated 
 
 Oker Hill , surmounted by two trees, 
 respecting which the following tra- 
 dition exists — 
 
 “ ’Tls said that on the brow of yon fair hill 
 Two brothers clomb, and, turning hot Bn IB 
 face. 
 
 Nor one more look exchanging, grief to still 
 Or feed, each planted on that lofty place 
 A chosen tree. Then, eager to fulfil 
 Their courses, like two new-born rivers, 
 they 
 
 In opposite directions urged their way 
 Down from the far-seen mount. No blast 
 might kill 
 
 Or blight that fond memorial. The trees 
 grew, 
 
 And now entwine their arms; but ne’er 
 ag tin 
 
 Embraced those brothers upon earth’s wide 
 plain, 
 
 Nor aught of mutual joy or sorrow knew, 
 Until their spirits mingled in the sea 
 That to itself takes all— Eternity 1” 
 
 Wordsworth. 
 
 19J m. Darley (Stat.), a very 
 pretty village. On E. is Stancliffe 
 Hall , the residence of Sir Joseph 
 Whitworth (the inventor of the 
 Whitworth rifled artillery), in the 
 grounds of which are some remark- 
 ably picturesque stone-quarries, which 
 supplied the material for the build- 
 ing of St. George’s Hall, Liverpool. 
 The ch.-yard of Darley contains a 
 yew-tree 33 ft. in girth. In the cli., 
 which is of mixed styles, is a monu- 
 ment to John of Darley, a crusader. 
 
 2J m. S.W. is Winder, a small 
 market town, with a population of 
 miners. The ch. is mainly E.E., 
 but has a Norm, tower. In the 
 neighbourhood are the picturesque 
 Kowtor rocks. 
 
 A pretty glen joins Darley Dale, a 
 little to tlie right of the stat., at tlio 
 entrance to which is a hamlet, witli 
 tlio euphonious name of Toadhole*. 
 This, however, is really a corruption 
 of Two-dales. 
 
 22 m. Roicsley (Stat.). Here the 
 Wye falls into the Derwent (Inn: 
 the Peacock, a very comfortable and 
 pretty house, with gables and mul- 
 lions of the 16th and early part of 
 
29 
 
 Boate 5 . — Stanton . — Youlgreave. 
 
 the 17th centy. ; the Peacock is the 
 crest of the Duke of Rutland, to 
 whom it belongs.) It is a good 
 house to stay at for fishing quarters, 
 ^nd a convenient point for reaching 
 Chatsworth, 3J m. N., to which place 
 omnibuses run ’several times a day 
 (fare, Is.), passing the pretty ch. and 
 parsonage of Beely, close to Chats- 
 worth Lodge. By staying at the 
 inn, the angler can obtain permis- 
 sion to fish a considerable stretch 
 of the Wye and Derwent, which 
 abound in grayling and trout, about 
 1 lb. in weight. The waters of these 
 rivers are very clear, and he should 
 hear in mind the necessity of having 
 very fine tackle and a short line. Rows - 
 ley Ch. (modern) contains a recumbent 
 effigy by Calder Marshall, in Cliel- 
 laston stone, of the 1st Lady John 
 Manners and her child. A chapel 
 on the N. side of the ch. was added 
 for this monument, the whole concep- 
 tion of which is very beautiful. 
 
 f The antiquary should make Rows- 
 ley his point of departure for Stan- 
 ton, 2 m. W., and the interesting early 
 remains in the neighbourhood. The 
 village lies on exceedingly high 
 ground, overlooking the valley of the 
 Wye, and adjoining it is Stanton 
 Park, the seat of W. P. Thornhill, 
 Esq. The whole of the district 
 known as Stanton Moor (now, how- 
 ever, planted), lying between Stan- 
 ton and Winster, together with the 
 elevated tract of country extending 
 westward to Youlgreave, Middleton, 
 and Hartington, is remarkable for 
 the number of early rock remains 
 and tumuli, together with singular 
 and fantastic groups of rocks heaped 
 one above the other. Immediately to 
 the S. of Stanton are the King’s 
 Stone ; the Nine Ladies, a circle of 
 upright stones, about 35 ft. in dia- 
 meter ; the Heart Stone ; the Gorse 
 Stone ; the Cork Stone ; and a little 
 to the W., separated by a thick wood, 
 the Andie Stone , which is 15 ft. in 
 height. About J m. to the S. of 
 
 this last are the Rowtor Rocks, a 
 very remarkable group of fragments 
 of millstone grit, worn away by the 
 weather into fantastic shapes, with 
 caves and passages between them. 
 On the summit of Bradley Rocks is 
 a rocking stone, mentioned by Cam- 
 den. “ In those parts also, near a 
 village called Byrch-over, is a large 
 rock, and upon it are two tottering 
 stones ; the one is 4 yards in height 
 and 12 yards about, and yet rests on 
 a point so equally poised that one 
 may move it with a finger.” At 
 Cratcliff, or Cardiff Tor, the other 
 side the turnpike-road, is a small 
 cave called the Hermitage, contain- 
 ing a crucifix carved in relief in a 
 recess of the rock (probably early 
 part of the 14th centy.). Close to 
 it is Robin Hood’s Stride, or 
 Graned Tor, on Hartle Moor; this 
 is also called Mock Beggars 9 Hall, 
 and is a rocky mass, surmounted 
 on either side by two projecting 
 knobs, which have been compared to 
 chimneys. 
 
 Youlgreave, 3 m. W. from Rowsley, 
 is a pretty village, overlooking the 
 little river Bradford, and has a 
 good Perp. Ch. containing a very 
 ancient font with cbrismatory at- 
 tached. In the porch is a mutilated 
 effigy, believed to be a Gilbert of 
 Youlgreave (14th cent.), which bears 
 the name of Jacky Throstle. The 
 register contains an account of a 
 particularly heavy fall of snow in 
 3 615 : it began on Jan. 16, fell an 
 ell deep, and kept daily increasing 
 till March 12, and did not entirely 
 disappear till May 28. In the 
 vicinity is Lomberdale, formerly the 
 seat of Mr. Bateman, the Derbyshire 
 antiquary. Proceeding westward, 
 the tourist will pass Bee Low, and 
 in about 4 m. will arrive at 
 
 Arbelows, or Arborlow, a very large 
 and perfect circle of prostrate stones 
 surrounded by a ditch and a high 
 rampart, and connected by a serpen- 
 tine ridge of earth with a large 
 
30 
 
 Route 6 . — Baleicell to Buxton . 
 
 barrow 350 yards distant, called I 
 Bunker’s Hill, or Gil) Hitt. This | 
 was opened in 1848, by the late Mr. 
 Bateman, who found in it a rectangu- 
 lar cist, containing an uni and burnt 
 bones. Previous to this discovery, 
 celts, a javelin-point, and a libula of 
 iron had been dug out of this barrow. 
 Rather singularly, the place of inter- 
 ment at Gib Hill was found to be at 
 the top of the mound, and was only 
 reveah*d by accident, in consequence 
 of its falling in, owing to excavations 
 at the base. At Kenslow , between 
 this and llartington, excavations re- 
 vealed a skeleton, some Kimmeridge 
 coal, and some iron knives. In Par- 
 cell y Hay Barrow the skeleton 
 was found in a sitting posture, 
 and in unusually good preservation. 
 The very common appellation of 
 “Low,” such as Arbor Low, Bee 
 Low, Hadlow, Ac., is derived from 
 the Saxon word Hlsew, or Hlaw, 
 defined by Bosworth as anything 
 that covers — hence a small hill or 
 barrow. Most of the tumuli in this 
 district were opened at various times 
 by Mr. Bateman, who always found 
 traces of interment. A valuable col- 
 lection of articles discovered in these 
 barrows is still preserved at Lom- 
 berdalc. In the neighbourhood of 
 Youlgreave are the scanty remains 
 of Ful wood's Castle , a mansion of the 
 17th centy, which belonged to the 
 Ful woods, a family remarkable for 
 its sufferings in the royal cause in 
 the time of Charles I. From them 
 Ful wood’s Rents in Holbom take 
 their name. A rock overlooking 
 Bradford Dale is still pointed out as 
 Ful wood’s Rock, where the then 
 head of the family was shot by Gell, 
 the Parliamentarian.] 
 
 The valo of the Derwent is now 
 left by the rly.. which takes a rather 
 abrupt turn to the N.W.,and follows 
 the l«nnk of the Wye to 
 
 25} m. Bakexodl {Hotel: Rutland 
 Arms — a good, comfortable inn, 
 much frequented by anglers, who j 
 
 I can here obtain tickets for fishing a 
 I long extent of the Wye.) ;Rte. 6.) 
 
 ROUTE 6. 
 
 BAKEWELL TO BUXTON [HADDON 
 HALL, CHATSWORTH, THE LATH- 
 
 KlLL]. — MIDLAND RAILWAY. 11} 1U. 
 
 Bakewell {Hotel: Rutland Arms), 
 a small town of 2500 inhabitants, 
 is chiefly remarkable for its charm- 
 ing situation, on a slope descending 
 to the margin of the Wye, in a 
 beautiful district of rich jvastures 
 and wood. It ms called by the 
 Saxons “ Badecanwylla,” and Main- 
 waring tells us that “ Edward the 
 Elder made a burrough of it.” 
 
 The cruciform Chu rch, finely placed 
 on the height above, was repaired 
 in 1841, and its octagonal tower and 
 spire rebuilt. During the excavations 
 for the restoration a number of tombs 
 and coffin-lids, considered to be of 
 Saxon date at the time, were disco- 
 vered. Some of them arc in the ch.,and 
 others in the Bateman museum at 
 Lomberdale. The most ancient por- 
 tion is the W. end, which is (*arly 
 Norm, with square piers, and has an 
 interesting triple recessed doorway 
 with figures; “and al>ove it an ar- 
 cade with zigzag work, in port cut 
 away to admit the insertion of a 
 sharp- pointed window, with early 
 lYrp. tracery.” Previous to the 
 restoration the whole nave was 
 Norm., which wns ruthlessly de- 
 stroyed save the specimen at the 
 W. end. Tin* chancel and 8. 
 
 ; tmnsept are E. E. ; another por- 
 
Boute 6 . — BaJcewell. — ffaddon Kail . 
 
 31 
 
 tion is Perp., while in the nave 
 are 4 arches, built by the church- 
 wardens. In the chancel is a 
 plain altar-tomb of marble, with 
 carved sides, to Sir John Yernon, 
 1477; in the S. trans. some cu- 
 rious monuments of the Manners 
 family, who were buried here before 
 their accession to the Belvoir estates ; 
 a large marble tomb to Sir George 
 Yernon and his two wives; to his 
 daughter and heiress Dorothy, and 
 her husband, Sir John Manners, 
 with whom she eloped from Had- 
 don ; and to Sir George Manners, 
 their son, 1623, erected by his wife. 
 This last is a large well-preserved 
 structure of marble, coloured and 
 slightly gilt, with their effigies and 
 those of their children. In 1841 
 an exhumation was made in Bake- 
 well ch., when the coffins of all the 
 deceased were found in good preser- 
 vation. Against one of the piers, ori- 
 ginally in the chantry of the Holy 
 Cross, is a curious small mural monu- 
 ment to Sir Godfrey Foljambe, 1366, 
 and Avena his wife, 1385 ; his 
 armour and the lady’s head-dress 
 deserve notice ; as does the effigy (in 
 the vestry) of Sir Thomas Wendesley 
 or Wandesby, killed at the battle 
 of Shrewsbury, 1403 ; on his helmet 
 is inscribed “ I. H. C. Nazaren.” 
 There are also an elaborately sculp- 
 tured font and a good memorial 
 window, in memory of Mr. Allcard, 
 of Burton Closes, and some stained 
 glass in the S. end. The bells, 8 
 in number, are all inscribed with 
 rhymes composed by a local poet. 
 In the ch.-yard is a fragment of a 
 very ancient stone cross, with sculp- 
 tured figures and interlaced pat- 
 terns, supposed to illustrate the prin- 
 cipal events in the life and death 
 of Christ. The curious in epitaphs 
 will be pleased with one to the 
 memory of the clerk — 
 
 “ The vocal powers, here let us mark, 
 
 Of Philip, our late parish clerk ; 
 
 In church, none ever heard a layman, 
 With a clearer voice say, Amen. 
 
 Oh ! now with Hallelujah’s sound, 
 
 Little he’ll make the roof resound. 
 
 The choir lament his choral tones. 
 
 The town, so soon lie here his bones. 
 
 Sleep, undisturbed, within this peaceful 
 shrine, 
 
 Till angels wake thee with such tones as 
 thine.” 
 
 Also an inscription in the interior 
 of the ch. to John Dale, barber-sur- 
 geon, who was buried here with his 
 two wives — 
 
 “A period’s come to all their toylsome 
 lives, 
 
 The good man’s quiet;— still are both his 
 wives.” 
 
 Opposite the inn are the baths, 
 supplied from a cold chalybeate 
 spring, with gardens and a news- 
 room attached. This spring has 
 for ages been used as a bath and 
 medicine. The town also con- 
 tains a Grammar School, founded in 
 1637 by Lady Grace Manners, a 
 hospital adjoining it founded by Sir 
 John Manners in the same centy., 
 and a cotton-mill, originally set up 
 by Arkwright. In the neighbourhood 
 are Burton Closes (Mrs. Allcard), East 
 Lodge (W. Unthank, Esq.), Castle 
 | Hill (W. Nesfield, Esq.), Holm 
 House, &c. 
 
 Distances. — Buxton, by road 12 
 m., by rail 11^ ; Matlock, 9; Ash- 
 bourne, 16 ; Stony Middleton, 5 ; 
 Castle ton, 14, and by Middleton 16 ; 
 Chats worth, 4, by Edensor 3 ; Had- 
 don, 2. 
 
 Several interesting Excursions may 
 be conveniently made from Bake- 
 well. 
 
 (1.) Eaddon Hall. The road to 
 Haddon descends the rt. bank of the 
 Wye, but it is a pleasanter though 
 much more circuitous route to keep 
 close to the river in the meadows. 
 Haddon Hall, which is open every 
 day to the visitor, is beautifully 
 situated, overlooking the Wye (here 
 crossed by a picturesque bridge), 
 and, with its towers and battle- 
 ments peering out from the rich 
 
32 
 
 Route G . — BaJcewell to Buxton . 
 
 woods, has been ever a fertile sub- 
 ject for the painter. Tliis vener- 
 able edifice, an ancient seat of the 
 Dukes of Kutland, though the chief 
 residence of that family down to 
 the beginning of the last century, 
 is an admirable specimen of the 
 baronial dwellings of the nobility 
 of England in the 15th and lfitli 
 cents., and all the more so from 
 its not having been adapted to 
 the exigencies of modern comfort. 
 Though no longer inhabited, it is in 
 erfect preservation, and was visited 
 y the Prince and Princess of Wales 
 in Dec. 1872; but much of its an- 
 cient furniture was wantonly de- 
 stroyed when the house was aban- 
 doned for Bel voir ( Rayner’s ‘ Haddon 
 Hall,’ p. 51). While capable of 
 being defended, it was by no means 
 intended for a castle or place of 
 strengtli ; and it is probable that no 
 part of it (except a portion of the 
 gateway, perhaps temp. Edward III.) 
 is older than the time of Edward IV., 
 at which time the nobles had ceased 
 to build fortresses for homes. The 
 keys are kept at the pretty little 
 cottage across the bridge. 
 
 The low entrance-gateway leads 
 up steps into a paved court, on one 
 side of which, in what is called the 
 Chaplain’s Hoorn, which may have 
 been a guard-room, are shown some 
 pewter plates and dishes, with buff 
 jerkins and jackboots of the time 
 of the civil wars. 
 
 In the S.W. angle is the chapel, 
 whicli “appears to have been a 
 small parish church, long before the 
 castle was built” (Parker’s ‘Do- 
 mestic Architecture,’ iii. 220). It is 
 Trans.-Norm., with E.E. W. window, 
 has a nave and aisles, and late 
 Norm. font. The chancel, which is 
 properly the chapel of the house, is 
 Perp., and has an E. window with 
 painted glass, and the date 1427. 
 In the ft. aisle are seats for the 
 servants, and the plate chest. The 
 great hall, with its dais, music gal- 
 lery, and large fireplace between the 
 
 windows, stands between the upper 
 and lower courts, and is interesting 
 as the scene of baronial festivities 
 in ancient days, of the banquet given 
 in 1866 to the members of the British 
 Association during the Nottingham 
 meeting, and to royalty in 1872. In 
 the porch is placed a Roman altar, 
 dug up in the neighbourhood, the 
 reading of which, according to Cam- 
 den, is as follows : 
 
 DEO 
 
 MARTI 
 
 BRACIACiE 
 
 OSITTIVS 
 
 OECILIAN. 
 
 PREFECT. 
 
 tro : : ; : : 
 
 V. s. 
 
 Over the doorway are the arms of 
 the Vernons, and of Fulco de Pern- 
 bridge, Lord of Tonge, in Shrop- 
 shire, one of their ancestors. No- 
 tice, in the great hall, the gallery 
 decorated with antlers, and the in- 
 genious apparatus for punishing tho 
 drinker, whose courage failed him 
 at the toasts or the quantity of 
 liquor prescribed. This apartment 
 communicates directly and con- 
 veniently with the kitchen, in which 
 are two hospitable-looking fire- 
 places, fitted for several ranges of 
 spits, and an enormous chopping- 
 block. The cellars and buttery are 
 near, the doors of both being pro- 
 vided with hatches, through which 
 the viands and liquors were distri- 
 buted to retainers and hangers-on, 
 and transmitted to the table of the 
 dais. There is also a smaller 
 dining-room or withdra wing-room, 
 with a coved ceiling. It is entered 
 by a flight of steps, formed each of 
 a solid log, and is a low room with 
 bow windows, interesting on account 
 of its oak panelling; three of the 
 compartments bear heads in relief 
 of Henry VII. ; his queen, Elizabeth 
 of York ; and, it is said. Will Somers*, 
 tho jester. Tho other carvings are 
 
Route 61 — Hadclon Hall . — Chatsworth. 
 
 33 
 
 coats of arms of the Peverils and 
 Avenells (the earliest possessors of 
 Haddon after the Conquest), and the 
 boar’s head of the Vernons, who held 
 it from the time of Richard I. to 
 that of Elizabeth. The last of the 
 male line was the celebrated Sir 
 George Vernon, called “ The King of 
 the Peak,” on account of his splen- 
 dour and hospitality. His arms and 
 initials, with the date 1545, are over 
 the fireplace. Several of the rooms 
 retain their ancient tapestry hang- 
 ings on the walls. Those of the 
 earl’s bedchamber, adjoining the 
 small gallery, bear a curious repre- 
 sentation of a boar-hunt, the men in 
 the costume of the 16th centy., and 
 the dogs protected by a species 
 of leather armour laced over their 
 bodies, and ornamented with studs. 
 The tapestry covers and conceals the 
 doors, but, in order to prevent the 
 necessity of lifting it up in order to 
 pass, iron hooks are provided at the 
 sides, by which it could be held 
 back. 
 
 The long gallery is of the time of 
 Elizabeth, judging from the style 
 of its decorations, the panelled walls, 
 and the bow window, in which is seen 
 the Rutland shield of 25 quarterings, 
 and, round the frieze, the boar’s head 
 of Vernon, the peacock of Manners, 
 and other animal devices. From 
 this room the garden is well seen, 
 divided into terraces, fenced with 
 antique stone balustrades, but no 
 longer kept in order, though the 
 clipped yews still represent boars’ 
 heads and peacocks (the Vernon and 
 Manners crests). Here is the door 
 leading to the terrace (itself one 
 of the most picturesque sights at 
 Haddon), by which the fair Doro- 
 thy Vernon, the heiress of these 
 estates, eloped on a ball-night with 
 her lover, Sir John Manners. With 
 this doorway the habitue's of our 
 water-colour exhibitions must be 
 tolerably familiar. In the adjoining 
 ante-room are portraits of Eliza- 
 beth, Charles I., and Prince Rupert, 
 
 after Vandyck. The chimneypiece 
 of the state bedroom is ornamented 
 with a representation, in stucco, of 
 Orpheus charming the beasts. Here 
 is a large looking-glass said to have 
 belonged to Queen Elizabeth, and the 
 state bed (last occupied by George 
 IV.), the hangings of which were 
 worked by Eleanor, daughter of 
 Thomas Lord Ros, and wife of Sir 
 Robert Manners. Adjoining this 
 apartment is another containing 
 some Gobelins tapestry. On the N. 
 gateway is a curious instrument, 
 fixed obliquely against the walls, 
 and designed, it is said, for stretch- 
 ing and stringing crossbows. Here 
 remain also the racks for hanging 
 up the bows and arrows. The 
 
 arch of this gateway is the seg- 
 ment of a circle, or rather it is a 
 slovenly-constructed slightly-pointed 
 circle, and not older than the 15th 
 centy. Haddon is certainly a most 
 interesting building, and should by 
 no means be left unseen. The 
 
 Eagle or Peveril’s tower, the oldest 
 part of the building, should be as- 
 cended for the sake of the view. A 
 large part of the park was enclosed 
 about 100 years ago, but the 
 meadows around the hall preserve 
 their park-like character. 
 
 (2.) Chatsworth, “ the Palace of 
 the Peak,” though easily accessible 
 from Rowsley (Rte. 5), is perhaps, 
 most conveniently visited from Bake- 
 well. The carriage - road through 
 Pilsley makes a circuit of 4 m., but 
 there is a direct bridle or foot path, 
 stretching up the hill called Bow 
 Cross, a little to the rt. of the rly. 
 stat., and through the woods, which 
 leads to the house in a little under 
 3 m. The summit of Bow Cross 
 commands a splendid view, and the 
 road descends thence by the side of 
 Edensor ch. into the park. 
 
 Edensor is one of those villages 
 which derive, from the vicinity of a 
 noble and generous landlord, advan- 
 tages denied to those more remote 
 c 3 
 
o-i 
 
 Route 6 . — Rakeiccll to Buxton . 
 
 from such observation. The dwell- 
 ings erected by the late Duke are 
 in the villa style, with gardens. The 
 Ch. was also rebuilt by him, under 
 the direction of Sir G. G. Scott , with 
 pulpit and font of Devonshire mar- 
 ble. In the interior is a monument 
 to the first Earl of Devonshire, with 
 two recuml>ent figures, one a skele- 
 ton (d. 1625) ; also a brass to John 
 Beton (d. 1570), a confidential ser- 
 vant of Mary Queen of Scots. In 
 the ch.-yard is buried the 6th Duke 
 of Devonshire (d. 1858). He re- 
 poses under a plain stone tomb, with 
 a floriated cross sculptured on the 
 top. Sir Joseph Faxton is also 
 buried in the ch.-yard. At Edensor, 
 close to the Park gates, and J m. 
 from the house, is the Chatsworth 
 Hotel ; first class, and very moderate. 
 Tickets for fishing may be procured 
 at the hotel, and an omnibus meets 
 the trains at the Bowaley Stat. 
 
 Admittance to Chatsworth House 
 and grounds is liberally given to all 
 persons every day in the week (ex- 
 cept Sunday), between the hours of 
 1 1 and 5, except on Saturdays, when 
 no one is admitted after 1 p.m. The 
 park is open on Sundays. 
 
 Cliatsworth, “ a house really large, 
 neat, and admirable,” as Camden 
 says of its predecessor, the superb seat 
 of the Duke of Devonshire, was 
 originally a square Palladian build- 
 ing with central court, erected by 
 the 4th Earl and 1st Duke of Devon- 
 shire, in the reign of William III. 
 To this a long wing was added by 
 the late Duke, under the direction 
 of Sir Jeffrey Wyattrille. Put how- 
 ever much this wing may add to the 
 capacity of the house, it detracts 
 greatly from its architectural charac- 
 ter, which was one of dignified uni- 
 formity. The proper way to have 
 enlarged Chatsworth would have 
 been by appending a second court 
 of the same shape, size, and fea- 
 tures as the first. It stands on 
 a gently -sloping bank, near the 
 
 margin of the “discreetly flow- 
 ing Derwent,” which runs through 
 the midst of the beautiful park. 
 A velvet lawn reaches to the water’s 
 brink, scattered over with trees 
 sheltering the lordly mansion, yet 
 allowing the most pleasing glimpses 
 as you approach it, through the in- 
 tervals between them, or underneath 
 their branches. The first peep of 
 the house seen among the trees 
 coming from Edensor is very pleas- 
 ing. The river is crossed by a stone 
 bridge, ornamented with statues by 
 Cibber , who was much employed in 
 peopling the park and its groves 
 with stone deities, nymphs, &c. He 
 has recorded in his note-book, that 
 “ for 2 statues, as big as life, I had 
 35Z. apiece, and all charges borne ; 
 and at tlfis rate I shall endeavour to 
 serve a nobleman in freestone.” 
 
 Near the bridge is a small moated 
 tower, called Mary’s Bower, from a 
 tradition that the Queen of Scots 
 passed much of her time here, and 
 cultivated a small garden on its 
 summit. In the courtyard, beyond 
 the entrance gatewffy, the way to 
 which is lined with tulip-trees, stands 
 a beautiful weeping ash, transported 
 in 1830, a full-grown tree 40 years 
 old, from Derby, a distance of 24 m. 
 In order to admit the passage of so 
 huge a mass of branches and roots, 
 with earth adhering to them, the 
 turnpike gates on the road had 
 to be taken down. 
 
 It would bo tedious to enu- 
 merate room by room all the trea- 
 sures of this, superb palace, some 
 of the windows of which, towards 
 the front, though of large dimensions, 
 are glazed with no more than two, 
 panes of plate glass, while the sills 
 are of white marble, and the external 
 frames arc gilt. Its interior is dis- 
 tinguished by the lavish expenditure 
 of marble, not only of the native 
 Derbyshire varieties, of which tho 
 finest existing specimens in pillars, 
 pedestals, slabs, tables, &c., are to Ik) 
 seen here, but also of foreign marbles. 
 
Bonfe 6 . — Clicitsworth : Hall. 35 
 
 porphyries, &c. Chatsworth also dis- 
 plays to the fullest extent the skill of 
 Grinling Gibbons and his followers, 
 in the elaborate borders, wreaths, 
 festoons, &c., with which the state 
 apartments are profusely decorated. 
 “All the wood-carving in England 
 fades away before that of Gibbons at 
 Chatsworth. The birds seem to live, 
 the foliage to shoot, and the flowers 
 to expand beneath your eye. The 
 most marvellous work of all is a 
 net of game; you imagine at the 
 first glance that the gamekeeper has 
 hung up his day’s sport on the wall, 
 and that some of the birds are still 
 in their death flutter. There is no 
 instance of a man before Gibbons 
 who gave to wood the loose and airy 
 lightness of flowers, and chained 
 together the various productions of 
 the elements with a free disorder 
 natural to each species. In the 
 great antechamber are several dead 
 fowl over the chimney, finely exe- 
 cuted, and, over a closet-door, a 
 pen, not distinguishable from a real 
 feather. When Gibbons had finished 
 his work in this palace, he presented 
 the Duke with a point cravat, a 
 woodcock, and a model of his own 
 head.” — Walpole. He was assisted 
 in these works by Samuel Watson , 
 a Derbyshire artist of talent (see 
 Heanor , Rte. 3), but the design and 
 the spirit thrown into the whole 
 probably belonged to the presiding 
 master. Several of the apartments, 
 including the chapel, are covered 
 with paintings by Verrio , Laguerre , 
 and Sir James Thornhill , in the 
 shapes of heathen deities, allegories, 
 apotheoses, composed of heaps of 
 figures which seem ready to fall 
 on your head. 
 
 “ On painted ceilings you devoutly stare, 
 Where sprawl the saints of Verrio and 
 Laguerre.” 
 
 The following is a brief summary 
 of the principal objects for notice in 
 the various apartments. 
 
 The Sub-Hall. — Tesselated pave- 
 
 ment of the corridor; and painted 
 ceiling, after Guido's Aurora. 
 
 The Great Hall. — Paintings by 
 Verrio and Laguerre , representing 
 scenes in the life of Julius Caesar ; 
 the ceiling being occupied by his 
 Apotheosis. Here is an enormously 
 large encrinital marble slab, also 
 bronze busts from the Exhibition of 
 1862. From the Great Hall, a corri- 
 dor containing Swiss views leads to 
 the Chapel , at the S.W. of the 
 building. The altarpiece here is 
 Verrio’ s best work ■ — subject ‘ The 
 Incredulity of Thomas.’ The sta- 
 tues of Faith and Hope on either 
 side of it are by Gabriel Cibber , 
 who was much employed here, and 
 the carving by Watson. The side 
 walls are adorned with paintings 
 from the life of our Saviour. No- 
 tice two curious paintings on glass, 
 and the altar, an oval table of mala- 
 chite. Another corridor leads from 
 the chapel, containing Egyptian 
 sculptures, to the Sketch Gallery, 
 the walls of which are hung with 
 drawings by Old Masters, framed 
 and glazed, including many pre- 
 cious works ; a part of this col- 
 lection was once in the possession 
 of Sir Peter Lely and Charles I. 
 It includes 4 by Michael Angelo 
 (2 sketches of figures for the Sistine 
 Chapel) ; Leonardo da Vinci ; Ra- 
 phael (a slight sketch of the figure 
 of Paul preaching at Athens, &c.) ; 
 Correggio ; Titian (his own por- 
 trait) ; H. Holbein , portraits of 
 Henry YU. and VIII, half life- 
 size ; besides others, by Julio Ro- 
 mano, Salvator Rosa , Perino della 
 Vaga , Andrea del Sarto, Albert 
 Purer, and Vandyck’s sketch-book 
 during his travels in Italy. In the 
 South Picture Gallery are many 
 beautiful paintings, such as a sea- 
 piece by Vandervelde ; Titian, St. 
 John in the Wilderness ; Leonardo 
 da Vinci (perhaps Luini), the Infant 
 Saviour with fruit, the upraised hand 
 of which is very sweetly executed ; 
 
36 
 
 Route 6 . — Ralceicell to Buxton. 
 
 Jean Mabuse , the Presentation of 
 the Virgin in the Temple (a Gothic 
 church), the priests in the costume 
 of bishops of the 16th centy., with 
 mitres ; in the foreground Anna and 
 Joncliim; a curious picture some- 
 what damaged. John Van Eyclc . 
 Consecration of Thomas a Becket 
 as Archbishop of Canterbury, in the 
 presence of the clergy, the laity, and 
 King Henry II., “ The proportions 
 of the figures are rather more slen- 
 der than usual in Van Eyck, heads 
 spirited, flesh of a brownish tone. 
 The other colours, draperies, &c., of 
 the richest and most glowing tints, 
 especially the dark-red robe of the 
 bishop on the rt. hand, with golden 
 embroidery. This picture has the 
 oldest date (1421) of any known of 
 Van Eyck.” Holbein , a man with a 
 flower in his hand ; Murillo , a Holy 
 Family, the Child in the cradle, St. 
 Joseph at work; Granet (a modern 
 French painter), the Convent Chapel, 
 monks at their devotions — a wonder- 
 ful effect of evening light. Others by 
 Albert Barer. N. Poussin; Woman 
 taken in Adultery, P. Veronese; 
 Ophelia, Severn. 
 
 The Slate Rooms , which extend 
 along the S. front, and command 
 an exquisite view, are profusely de- 
 corated with carvings by Gibbons . 
 whose celebrated lace cravat hangs in 
 the first room. The equally celebrated 
 pen has been broken. There are 
 also carvings by Watson . hardly in- 
 ferior to these masterpieces. They 
 contain, among other things, the 
 coronation chairs of George III. 
 and William IV. and their Queens, 
 which were perquisites of the 
 office of Lord Chamberlain, held 
 on these occasions by Dukes of 
 Devonshire. The Music-room has a 
 collection of minerals and curious in- 
 laid cabinets, and tin; State Drawing- 
 room some copies of Raphael's car- 
 toons and Gobelin tapestry. In the old 
 State Drawing-room is a malachite 
 clock, presented by the Emperor of 
 
 Russia, and the rosary of Henry 
 VIII. The carved game and net of 
 Gibbons in this room are particularly 
 beautiful. In the private Drawing- 
 room (not shown) is a beautiful 
 copy, by Bartolini , of the Venus do 
 Medicis, and the following paintings 
 by Old Masters: — Mary Q. of Scots* 
 Zucchero; Charles I., Jansen ; Duke of 
 Albemarle, Lely ; Henry Vni., Hol- 
 bein ; Philip II., Titian; a Venetian 
 Admiral, Tintoretto; the Archbishop 
 of Spalatro ; Georgiana, Duchess 
 of Devonshire, with her child on 
 her lap, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. 
 “ Her face, which is seen in profile, 
 is equally handsome and intelli- 
 gent ; the colouring remarkably 
 warm, clear, and harmonious.” 
 There are some other portraits- 
 in the state apartments, as James 
 Butler, 2nd Duke of Ormond, by 
 KneUer ; Richard Boyle, Earl of 
 Burlington, by Knapton ; William,. 
 1st Duke of Devonsliire, by Kneller 
 (or Riley , 1707) ; George IV., by 
 Lawrence. 
 
 In the Billiard , or Red Velvet 
 Room , are chiefly modern paintings 
 by English artists. It contains 
 Landseer's celebrated Bolton Abbey; 
 Collins , Boy opening the Gate ; New- 
 ton. a Scene from Gil Bias. The 
 ceiling is painted by Thornhill. 
 
 Some of the apartments are 
 called Queen Mary’s, not because 
 she actually occupied them, but 
 because they contain portions of the 
 furniture from the rooms in the old 
 house (long since pulled down) occu- 
 pied by her when Lord Shrewsbury 
 was allowed to remove hither witli 
 his prisoner from Sheffield Manor, 
 Wingfield, or Hardwick. These short 
 visits occurred in 1570, 1573, 1577, 
 1578, and in 1581. Lord Burleigh 
 commends Chatsworth as “a very 
 mete bowse for good preservation of 
 his charge, having no towre of re- 
 sort, wher any ambushes might lye.” 
 Hobbes, the philosopher, resided 
 for some timo in the old house, as 
 
37 
 
 Doute 6 . — Chatsworth 
 
 tutor to the Earl of Devonshire, 
 1631. He wrote here his work 4 De 
 Mirabilibus Pecci.’ 
 
 The 'New Staircase , built by Sir 
 J. Wyattville, is far more striking 
 than the old, called the Grand 
 Stairs. The Library (not shown) 
 is a noble apartment, decorated 
 with pillars of rosewood marble, 
 and black and grey marble, from Ash- 
 ford ; also with two vases of grey 
 Siberian jasper, gifts of the Em- 
 peror Nicholas ; it contains a highly 
 valuable collection of rare books, 
 including many from the Duke of 
 Roxburgh’s library. Here are the 
 oldest Florentine Homer, on vellum ; 
 rare editions printed by Caxton; 
 and many ancient MSS. with beau- 
 tiful miniatures ; among them a 
 missal of King Henry VII., given by 
 his daughter Margaret, Queen of 
 Scotland, to the Archbishop of St. 
 Andrew’s, with paintings executed 
 probably by Flemish artists, scholars 
 of Van Eyck. There is also the 
 “Liber Veritatis,” or sketch-book 
 of Claude Lorraine , in which he 
 entered outlines, often very slight 
 ones, of his great pictures. 
 
 The New Dining-room , a noble 
 room with a coved roof, contains 
 the following portraits by Vandyck : 
 the Earl of Devonshire ; “ except 
 that the position of the legs is not 
 happy, a picture of much delicacy 
 and elegance.” His Countess, “ ex- 
 tremely pleasing ; the attitude of 
 walking gives the figure much ani- 
 mation.” Jane, daughter of Arthur 
 Goodwin : “ The brightness of the 
 tone, and the delicacy of the treat- 
 ment, give a great charm to this 
 picture.” Joanna of Blois, after- 
 wards Lady Rich : “To my mind, 
 one of the most beautiful of Van - 
 dyck’s female portraits, and wonder- 
 fully charming : the clear, power- 
 ful colouring, the bright shining 
 tone of the flesh, and the careful 
 execution in all the parts, give rea- 
 
 : Sculpture Gallery. 
 
 son to believe that it was painted 
 rather before his settling in Eng- 
 land.” Arthur Goodwin : “ The 
 countenance is very pleasing, and 
 the execution extremely true to 
 nature ; the colouring less forcible 
 than usual, but in a delicate clear 
 tone, date 1639.” Gerard Hont - 
 horst : the Countess of Devonshire, 
 with her two sons and daughters : 
 44 Compared with Vandyck, the ar- 
 rangement is rather too inartificial, 
 and the space not sufficiently filled ; 
 otherwise it is very spirited and 
 carefully painted, and the colouring 
 is fine and clear.” — W. The por- 
 tals at either end of this room are 
 adorned with pillars of African and 
 red breccia ; the two chimney- 
 pieces, which cost 1000 guineas 
 each, are of Carrara marble by 
 Westmacott the younger, and Sevier ; 
 the side - tables are made of horn- 
 blende, porphyritic syenite, and Sibe- 
 rian jasper. 
 
 The New Sculpture Gallery , a 
 noble hall, lighted from above, is 
 filled with works for the most part 
 by modern artists of various coun- 
 tries, including several of the best 
 statues by Canova ; and foremost 
 among them, the sitting statue of 
 Madame Letitia, mother of Napo- 
 leon, a combination of ease and dig- 
 nity, finished with the utmost care ; 
 the idea is from the antique statue 
 of Agrippina ; it is a splendid 
 achievement of the chisel. 
 
 A colossal bust of Napoleon. 
 
 Endymion asleep, watched by his 
 Dog : 44 The task of representing 
 all the limbs dissolved in repose 
 is peculiarly adapted to Canova’s 
 genius, so that this is a work of the 
 greatest softness, and of the highest 
 finish of the marble.” Hebe pouring 
 water from a Vase, one of Canova s 
 best w^orks. 
 
 Thorwaldsen, Venus with the 
 Apple : 44 The graceful action pecu- 
 liar to this artist, the natural beauty 
 and healthful fulness of the forms. 
 
38 
 
 Route C . — Bciic well to Buxton. 
 
 make this work very pleasing.” 
 Bust of Card. Gonsalvi : “The lino 
 sensible features are given with great 
 spirit, ami the workmanship is highly 
 finished.” 
 
 Bas-reliefs of Morning and Night. 
 
 The Filatrioe, or Spinning Girl, 
 by Schadoic , a Prussian, is an elegant 
 figure. 
 
 Castor and Pollux, bas-relief. The 
 <)uoit Player (Discobalus), by A'es- 
 a Belgiun, is true to nature, and 
 original in conception : “ Very 
 
 spirited and carefully executed in 
 all the parts, according to the 
 model." The pedestal is inlaid with 
 Swedish porphyry from Elfdalen. 
 
 Cupid taking a thorn from Ve- 
 nus’s foot ; carefully executed, but 
 with little meaning in its com- 
 |>osition. Taddolitd , — Ganymede 
 
 caressing the Eagle; a pretty and 
 we 11 -ex touted work. Bnrtolini , a 
 
 Bacchante. Gibson, Mars and Cupid. 
 Watmacott the younger, a Cymbal 
 Player, and on the pedestal a bas- 
 relief of a Bacchante; l>oth very 
 spirited. In the centre of the gal- 
 lery stands a large granite basin, 
 worked at Berlin, by Cant i an, out 
 of one of those remarkable boulder- 
 stones which strew the sandy 
 lints of Brandenburg, and worth 
 r. »t ice from its size and finish. A 
 vase of white marble contains the 
 modelling - stick, chisel, pen, and 
 glove, last used by Canova. A vase 
 «»f fiuor spar (called in the county 
 “ Blue John”), the largest ever 
 made ; a table fomn-d of slabs of I>a- 
 brudor felspar, found near St. Peters- 
 burg. where there is no such rock in 
 nitu ; a table of white marble from 
 the columns of the temple on Gape 
 Colonna ; and a copy of the Grand 
 Mosaic discovered at Pompeii, of 
 the battle of Darius, also deserve 
 notice. 
 
 There are many rooms not shown 
 in this vast mansion. The kitchen 
 is an apartment of lofty dimensions, 
 exceedingly well arranged, and the 
 spits turned by a water-wheel. The 
 
 cellars are spacious, and contain 12 
 ale-casks, called the Apostles, given 
 by William III. to the first Duke. 
 Besides the various treasures enu- 
 merated above, the Duke has one of 
 the finest private cabinets of minerals 
 in Britain, including all the most 
 rare specimens that Derbyshire pro- 
 duces ; and among the precious 
 gems, an emerald purchased from 
 Don Pedro, Emperor of Brazil, 
 which in size and uniform depth of 
 colour is scarcely to t>e surpassed. 
 
 The W. lodge is tilled with curi- 
 ous fragments of ancient sculpture 
 and terracotta from Greece, Ac. 
 
 Wo pass out of the Sculpture Gal- 
 lery into the Orangery, and thence 
 into the Gardens , which include 80 
 acres of mown lawn; they are laid 
 out in the antique formal style, and 
 ornamented with statues, vases, pil- 
 lars, &e. 
 
 A lofty wall, heated from within, 
 and lined with glass, is covered with 
 delicate plants, as easuariwe, aca- 
 cias, &c. Near the Italian Garden 
 in front of the house is a vigorous 
 young oak, planted by the Princess 
 Victoria when she visited Clmts- 
 worth in 1S32. Passing through a 
 curious gate formed by a single 
 massivo stone moving on a pivot, 
 the visitor enters the grounds appro- 
 priated to azaleas and rhododen- 
 drons. 
 
 The Arboretum , a plantation of 
 different kinds of trees from various 
 jwirts of the glolx\ as far as they 
 can be naturalised in this climate, 
 occupies *10 ucrea on the slopo of. 
 tho hill. There are hothouses in 
 the Kitchen Garden (for which an 
 order is required) for forcing fruit, 
 besides graperies, cherry and straw- 
 berry houses. 
 
 From tin* slope of the hill, nearly 
 behind the house, descends a colossal 
 flight of steps, surmounted by a 
 Temple, from even* part of which, on 
 opening a valve, gush forth copious 
 streams of water, so as to form, in 
 
39 
 
 Route 6 .— Chatsworth : Conservatory . 
 
 descending the flight, a long arti- 
 ficial cascade, disappearing into the 
 ground at the bottom. A more pleas- 
 ing object than this is the Fountain, 
 a very lofty jet-d’eau, rising from 
 the centre of a long sheet of water, 
 sheltered on either side by a shady 
 screen of limes, to a height of 267 ft. 
 There is also a curious conceit in 
 the form of a weeping willow, made 
 of metal, every branch of which is a 
 pipe, and which can be made to de- 
 luge the unwary trespasser. These 
 are all supplied with water from a 
 reservoir on the liill-top of 6 acres, 
 situated near the Hunting Tower, 
 a tall square building with 4 turrets 
 conspicuous far and near, and marked 
 by a flag on the summit when the 
 Duke is at home. These stately 
 avenues, lawns, and waterworks, 
 remind, on a smaller scale, of those 
 of Versailles and St. Cloud. The 
 waterworks belong to Old Chats- 
 worth, but the horticultural and 
 arboricultural achievements were 
 carried out by the late Duke under 
 the late Sir Joseph Paxton’s super- 
 intendence. 
 
 The Conservatory , the glory of 
 Chatsworth and the most extensive 
 in the world, except that at Kew, 
 is approached through an avenue of 
 rocks, not a mere puny pile of stones, 
 but an immense combination of huge 
 blocks, skilfully composed to imitate 
 a natural ravine or gorge. The car- 
 riage road — for the conservatory is so 
 large as to be entered and traversed 
 by carriages— is so contrived that no- 
 thing is seen till the visitor reaches 
 the threshold and the folding gates 
 are thrown open. This palace of glass 
 consists of coved sides, surmounted 
 by a semicircular arcade, supported 
 on slender iron pillars, having arched 
 projections at both ends. It is 276 
 ft. long, 126 ft. wide, and 65 ft. high, 
 and covers nearly an acre of ground. 
 It contains 40 m. of sash bars, made 
 at the rate of 2000 ft. a day, by a 
 machine designed by Sir Joseph 
 
 Paxton. The framework is of wood, 
 the arches formed of bent deal 
 planks, applied together by iron fast- 
 enings ; the panes of glass are dis- 
 posed obliquely, in alternate ridges 
 and furrows, like the folds of a fan 
 or the plaits of a frill, so as to 
 throw off the hail. A gallery runs 
 round it, from whence you can 
 look down upon a forest of tropical 
 foliage, palms and cedars, pines and 
 ferns. In one corner a pile of arti- 
 ficial rock serves for the growth 
 of ferns, orchidacese, and cactse, 
 while it conceals the staircase lead- 
 ing to the gallery. 8 large furnaces 
 heat this house through pipes 7 m. 
 long, which alone cost 1500Z. They 
 are supplied with fuel by a subter- 
 ranean tramway, through a tunnel J 
 m. long. The whole was planned by 
 the late Duke and Sir J. Paxton, 
 under whose superintendence it was 
 executed. 
 
 In the kitchen gardens, which are 
 J m. N. of the house, and require a 
 special order for admission, is the New 
 Holland House , containing plants 
 from the Australian colonies. 
 
 The Victoria Regia, or royal water- 
 lily, has a peculiar house appro- 
 priated to it, containing a tank' 34 
 ft. in diameter, the water in which 
 is kept in motion by a wheel. Near 
 the kitchen gardens is the pretty 
 residence of the late Sir J. Paxton. 
 
 The Cyclopean Aqueduct is a vast 
 structure of numerous lofty arches 
 formed of rough-hewn angular grit- 
 stone masonry, destined to carry a 
 stream of water to form a cascade 150 
 ft. high, after the fashion of a similar 
 structure at Cassel. 
 
 Should the visitor be obliged to 
 return to his head-quarters without 
 extending his travels in Derbyshire, 
 he may leave Chatsworth by a dif- 
 ferent route from that by which he 
 entered, as he can rejoin the railway 
 at either Hassop, Bakewell, or Rows- 
 ley ; the distance is about the same 
 (3 or 4 m.) in either case. 
 
40 
 
 Boute G . — Bakeicell to Buxton . 
 
 (3.) The Lathhll. A very pleasant 
 excursion may be made over the 
 moors westward to Over Haddon 
 (2} m.), a picturesque village, ami 
 thence up the Vale of Lathkill, n 
 spot of rare b< nuty. It is traversed 
 by the stream of the some name, a 
 beautiful trout river, strictly preserved 
 by the Duke of Rutland; pedestrians, 
 however, may follow its course with- 
 out let or hindrance. Cotton says 
 of this river, that it is “by many 
 degrees the purest and most transpa- 
 rent stream that I ever yet saw, and 
 breeds the reddest and best trouts 
 in England/’ Some 2J or 3 m. 
 above Over Haddon, the Lathkill 
 issues fmm a cavern in the limestone 
 opposite the romantic Parson’s Tor. 
 It was formerly called Fox Tor, but 
 gained its present name from a fatal 
 accident that befell the Rev. R. 
 Lomas, the incumbent of Monyash, 
 who, coming home from Bakcwell in 
 a temjiest nous night (October 11, 
 1776), missed his way and fell over 
 the Tor. The Lathkill is joined by 
 the Bradford at Allport, and falls 
 into the Wye at Fillyford Bridge, 
 near Rowsley. 
 
 (4 ) The Road to Buxton will be 
 by many preferred to the rly. ; the 
 scenery is very agreeable, and it is 
 well worth while to lengthen the 
 distance (12 m.) a little by an occa- 
 sional stroll on the lovely banks of 
 the Wj • 
 
 At 1§ m. we reach Athford ( Inn : 
 Devonshire Arms), locally known 
 as A.-hford-in-th*- Water, it standing 
 on the Wye, which supplies water 
 pow« r for several marble mills. In 
 the churchyard arc some fine yew- 
 trees. On the 8. wall of the Ch. is 
 n sculpture of a wolf and wild lioar 
 beneath ft tree, with the inscription, 
 “The Wr out of the wood doth 
 waste it. and the wild b«tiat of tin- 
 field doth devour it.*’ In the N. 
 aisle the visitor may see funeral 
 garlands still hanging, the relics 
 
 of a very pretty custom at ono time 
 prevalent in Derbyshire. The cus- 
 tom fell into disuse, perhaps a cen- 
 tury ago, but has of late years been 
 revived. (See I lam, Rte. 33.) 
 
 " Now the low beams wiUi paper garlands 
 hung. 
 
 In memory of some village youth or maid. 
 Draw the soft tear, from thrill'd remembrance 
 sprung; 
 
 How oft my childhood mark'd that tribute 
 paid ! * Anna Seward. 
 
 The practice of ringing the Curfew 
 is still kept up in Ashford, and tho 
 still rarer one of the pancake-bell on 
 Shrove Tuesday. 
 
 Close to the village is Ashford 
 Hall, the seat of Lora. Geo. Caven- 
 dish. Adjoining it are the marble- 
 works for which this place is cele- 
 brated, where the various marbles 
 found in this county are cut, po- 
 lished, and turned in lathes. Tho 
 best marble occurs in beds, none of 
 which are more than 8 in. thick, 
 alternating with chert. This neigh- 
 bourhood furnishes all tho finest 
 varieties, such as the entroehal, bird’s 
 eye, and the rosewood, which is ob- 
 tained from a quarry about 1 m. 
 from the village. 
 
 The road follows the Wye to 
 Monsal Dale, in., where the river 
 Hows in from the N. from Miller’s 
 Dale, at which is a Stat. (post). 
 ^[on*(ll Dale , which at this jxiint 
 is joined by a small brook from 
 Deep Dale, is about 2| m. in length 
 ( commencing from Crcasbrook Dale), 
 and is a most lovely combination of 
 rock and river scenery, ns tho stream 
 flows under Fin Cop and Bruthjicld 
 Hough. 
 
 "Anti M<»naal, thou mine of Arcadian trea- 
 sure. 
 
 Need we seek for Greek islands ami spice- 
 laden galm. 
 
 While a Temple like thee, of enchantment 
 and pleasure. 
 
 May he found In our own naUvc Derbyshire 
 l * K. Cook, 
 
 A Imnow opened at this latter spot 
 contain'd a curious collection of 
 
41 
 
 Route -^-Taddington. — Long stone. 
 
 swords and javelins. Another bar- 
 row at the same, place was called 
 the Gospel Hillock , “perhaps from 
 the first Christian missionary having 
 taken his stand thereon while exhort- 
 ing the Saxons to forsake the wor- 
 ship of Woden and Thor.’’ — Bate- 
 man. 
 
 By ascending Brushfield Hough, 
 a very striking view is obtained. 
 The Wye is seen at foot, winding 
 from Monsal to Miller’s Dale, and is 
 crossed by a lofty viaduct, over which 
 the train rushes as it emerges from 
 the tunnel. The walk may be ex- 
 tended to Longstone Edge, which 
 gives another wide view, and by 
 passing through the picturesque vil- 
 lages of Little and Great Longstone 
 you return to the Buxton road, 
 which now leaves the river, and is 
 carried up a streamless valley to 
 Taddington , 6 m. from Bakewell. 
 
 Taddington stands on high ground, 
 overlooking the valley of the Wye. 
 Its small ch. has a brass to one of 
 the Blackwells, who have given 
 name to an adjoining township. 
 Miller's Dale (Stat.) is 1J m. N. ; 
 and about a like distance S.W. is 
 Chelmorton , with a ch. worth a visit. 
 It is of various styles, but has a 
 dwarf stone chancel-screen and a 
 carved font. There are two large 
 barrows on the hill above the village. 
 
 The road again comes near the 
 river and the rly. at King's Sterndale , 
 9 m. from Bakewell, and scarcely 
 ever loses sight of either for the rest 
 of the journey. At 10 J m. w r e de- 
 scend into Ashwood Dale , a charming 
 spot, through which the Wye flows, 
 sometimes in miniature rapids, some- 
 times in wide glassy pools, so pleasant 
 to the angler. Wood-clad slopes bound 
 it on either side, rich in foliage, 
 and surmounted by cliffs of limestone, 
 scarped by the engineer, yet not 
 altogether bare, for the ivy has begun 
 to creep over their surface, and a 
 few hardy shrubs have found root in 
 their crannies. It must, however, 
 be admitted that the rly. works, how- 
 
 ever bold and vigorous in themselves, 
 do not add to the beauty of the vale. 
 At its northern end is the pictu- 
 resque chasm called the Lover's 
 Leap (Rte. 7) ; and 1 m. farther we 
 suddenly find ourselves in Spring 
 Gardens, Buxton. 
 
 Proceeding towards Buxton by 
 the Bailway , we reach at 2 m. 
 Hassop (Stat.). The very small 
 village stands at the foot of a lofty 
 hill. 1 m. N. is Hassop Hall (Chas, 
 Stephen Leslie, Esq.), a house held 
 by one of the Eyres for Charles I. 
 A handsome R. C. chapel adjoins 
 the Hall. The Eyres, for about a 
 century, were styled Earls of New- 
 burgh, but on the failure of their 
 line, in 1853, the title was declared 
 to belong to the Princess Giustiniani, 
 the descendant of the 4th Earl, who 
 died in 1768. 
 
 3 m. Longstone (Stat,). The vil- 
 lages of Great and Little Longstone 
 lie N. of the Stat., and behind them 
 Longstone Edge stretches toward 
 Stoney Middleton. Longstone Hall 
 (Thos. Gregory, Esq.) was formerly 
 a possession of the family of Wright* 
 and, according to tradition, was a 
 hunting-seat of Henry VII. A wain- 
 scoted room, with the arms of the 
 Wrights, is all that is left of its 
 former owners. A tunnel succeeds* 
 on emerging from which a glorious 
 view breaks suddenly on the travel- 
 ler as the train rushes through 
 Monsal Dale, at a great height 
 above the river, looking down 
 upon the tributary Cressbrook Dale y 
 with the little colony of mills at 
 its mouth. Immediately above it 
 is the hill called Hay Top , where, 
 in a large flat-topped barrow, an ex- 
 ceedingly beautiful food-vessel was 
 found, together with the skeleton of 
 a child. And on Longstone Edge, 
 in a barrow called Blake Low , were 
 found the skeletons of a girl and a 
 child, together with a drinking-cup 
 and the tine of a stag’s antler. 
 
42 
 
 Route G . — Bale well to Buxton. 
 
 At 5} m. notice on N. a very 
 curious prolongation of limestone, 
 known as Tongue End, which guards 
 the entrance to Tidoswell Dale. 
 
 CJ m. Jfi/fcr** Pah Stak), a resort 
 for anglers. [The tourist should 
 alight here for the purpose of ex- 
 ploring the various dales at his 
 leisure, as well as for visiting Tidee- 
 i Cftt, a small town 3 m. N.E., so 
 called from an ebbing and flowing 
 well, which, however, has for a long 
 time ceased to flow. 
 
 " llw also is a well, 
 
 % Whose waters do excel 
 All water* therpahout, 
 lloth W*lng in and nnt 
 Ehbing and flowing.'* 
 
 Sir A. Cockayne, 1659. 
 
 Hut the town (Inn : George) is 
 worth a visit for the sake of its 
 magnificent Ch ., principally of Dec. 
 style. It is cruciform, with embattled 
 and pinnacled tower at the W. end; 
 the E. window is particularly fine. 
 In tho centre of the spacious chancel 
 is the altar-tomb of Sir Sampson 
 Meverell (d. 1402); the marble slab 
 has a fine brat w, with evangelistic 
 xvmbols, A*c., and a long account of 
 the deceased, who served in Franco 
 under the Duke of Bedford, and was 
 knighted by him ; the slab is sup- 
 ported on pillars, ami underneath is 
 set*n a figure of a skeleton. On tho 
 \. side is the altar-tomb of Robert 
 I’ursglove, prior of Gisborne, and 
 suffragan bishop of Hull in the reign 
 of Mary; his wa** represents him 
 in full pontifical vestments (though 
 he survived till 1379), and isn garded 
 as a valuable examplo of its class 
 (Haines, * Mon. Brushes*); he was 
 a native of the town, and the alms- 
 houses founded by him still exist. 
 An earlier hraM is one for John 
 Foljambe, a grant benefactor to tin* 
 ch. (d. 1338). Another tomb is f*»r 
 Sir Thurstan do Bnwc r ami his wif- 
 (circa 1400); ami there is a Itom 
 for Robert I.yttnn and wife (1483). 
 The Lyttons, a family of great 
 
 antiquity, intermarried with the 
 Bnlwers of Norfolk, ami have, ever 
 since the time of Elizabeth, severed 
 their connection with the Peak 
 country. There were two chapels 
 in the S. transept; one, which lias 
 perished, belonged to tho Lyttons; 
 in the other are 2 effigies of unknown 
 knights, apparently of the 13th and 
 15th Cents. In the X. transept wore 
 also two chapels ; one belonging to 
 the guild of St. Mary, and the other 
 to 1 Vheston, a hamlet a mile distant, 
 where an ancient stone cross remains. 
 The ch. formerly contained a stono 
 pulpit, removed only a few years 
 ago; it has still some stalls, and a 
 stone reredos standing in advance 
 ■ f the E. WllL 
 
 From Tideswell a wild mountain 
 road of 5 m. leads through tho 
 mining village of Little Hucklow to 
 Castleton (Rte. 8).] 
 
 At 7} m. the line passes in a tun- 
 nel under Chce Tor , one of tho finest 
 cliffs in the dale. At s J m. a branch 
 line to Chnpel-cn-le- Frith is given 
 off on X. Rte. 7 , and at 11} in. 
 we reach Buxton (Stat.) (Rte. 7). 
 For these last 3 m. especially tho 
 rly. works are very heavy, tunnels 
 and bridges and viaducts succeeding 
 each other with l>owildoring rapidity. 
 To form any adequate idea of them 
 the tourist is advised to walk from 
 Buxton through Ashwood Jkdc to 
 the Miller's Dale Stnt. (3 m.), |>- 
 
 ing in sight of thepivtty little Wye 
 the whole way. Tnc bit. mist will 
 find the beautiful Geranium prolan**, 
 ami even rarer plants, ami tho geo- 
 logist will lie interested in the sec- 
 tions of the limestone. 
 
Boute 7.— Buxton to Manchester. 
 
 43 
 
 EOUTE 7. 
 
 BUXTON TO MANCHESTER, BY 
 
 CHAPEL-EN-LE-FRITH, WHALEY 
 
 BRIDGE, AND STOCKPORT. 
 
 L. AND N.-W. BAILWAY. 24 HI. 
 
 Buxton. ( Hotels : St. Anne’s (best 
 for a halt); Palace, by Stat. ; Old 
 Hall; Royal; Midland). This cele- 
 brated watering-place is situated in 
 an upland valley, 1100 ft. above the 
 sea, surrounded by round gritstone 
 hills, which are gradually being 
 covered by the dark foliage of fir 
 plantations. It stands on the 
 Derbyshire Wye, near its source, and 
 to make room for the Crescent, the 
 stream has in one part been arched 
 over like a sewer and hid from 
 view. The climate of this elevated 
 region is rough, the wind stormy, 
 and the rain frequent, with rapid 
 changes of temperature ; but in spite 
 of these disadvantages, the fame of 
 the waters attracts yearly a large 
 number of visitors. The resident 
 population is about 1800, scattered 
 thinly, except in the town itself, over 
 a large surface, much of which is 
 used as grazing ground. 
 
 Though essentially a modern 
 watering-place, Buxton bears evi- 
 dence of great antiquity, and Gale, 
 the antiquary, believed if to have been 
 the Aquis of Ravennas. That the 
 springs were known to the Romans is 
 certain, as at the time of the build- 
 ing of the Crescent remains of a 
 Roman bath were discovered ; and 
 that there was a town is rendered 
 probable by the fact that two prin- 
 cipal roads intersected each other 
 here, viz. from Mancunium (Man- 
 chester) through Chester, and horn 
 Congleton to Brough, a village be- 
 yond Castleton; a portion of this 
 road, called the. Batharn Gate, is 
 easily traceable between Tideswell 
 and Castleton, The springs were 
 
 in high repute in the middle ages, 
 and the chapel of St. Anne in Old 
 Buxton was crowded by devotees 
 who resorted to them. This con- 
 course was either prohibited or fell 
 into disuse at the Reformation, but in 
 the reign of Elizabeth the waters 
 again came into repute, so that the 
 Earl and Countess of Shrewsbury 
 brought to them their prisoner, Mary 
 Queen of Scots, placing her in the 
 Old Hall, a part of which still exists, 
 incorporated into the hotel of the 
 same name. She was met here by 
 Burghlev, who also came for the 
 benefit of the waters, and had thereby 
 nearly excited the displeasure of his 
 mistress, Queen Elizabeth, who feared 
 lest the fascinations of her rival 
 should seduce even the crafty Cecil 
 from his duty. “At the rise of the 
 Wye are nine springs of hot water, 
 call’d at present Buxton Well, which 
 being found by experience very good 
 for the stomach, the nerves, and the 
 whole body, the Most Honourable 
 George Earl of Shrewsbury has 
 lately adorn d them with buildings, 
 and they begin to be frequented by 
 great numbers of the nobility and 
 gentry, about which time the un- 
 fortunate and heroic princess, Mary 
 Queen of Scots, took her farewell of 
 Buxton in this distich, which is 
 nothing but an alteration of Caesar’s 
 verses upon Feltria : — 
 
 ‘ Buxtona qu® calidas celebrabere nomine 
 lymph®. 
 
 Forte mihi posthac non adeunda, vale/ 
 
 But this is beside my business.” — 
 Camden. 
 
 The visitors, however, were very 
 indifferently accommodated, even a 
 century later than Camden’s time, 
 according to a I7th-centy. ‘Tour in 
 Derbyshire,’ cited by Macaulay. 
 “ The gentry of Derbyshire and of 
 the neighbouring counties repaired 
 to Buxton, where they were crowded 
 into low wooden sheds, and regaled 
 with oatcake and with a viand which 
 the hosts called mutton, but wdiich 
 
44 
 
 Route 7 . — Buxton to Manchester. 
 
 the guests strongly suspected to be 
 dog” ( Hist. Eng. vol. i.). 
 
 Buxt *n consists of two parts; (1) 
 Old or High Buxton, to the S., still 
 retaining something of its primitive 
 appearance, with its antique chapel 
 and remain* of a market-cross ; and 
 (2) the Buxton of modern date, en- 
 circling St. Anne’s cliff, and stretch- 
 ing X. to the springs and the railway. 
 Buxton, like Matlock, abounds in 
 so-called museums or shops for the 
 sale of Derbyshire spar, Ac. 
 
 The mineral waters — furnished 
 from two sources, one tepid, having 
 a t« inp rnture at its source of 
 82' Fanr., and the other cold — are 
 without taste or smell, and are said 
 to resemble tluwe of Wildbad, in Ger- 
 many. The well of St. Ann, whence 
 they issue, at the W. end of the lower 
 walk, is covered with a neat stone 
 canopy, ami is reckoned one of the 
 7 wonders of the Peak, because it 
 furnish*** both hot and cold water 
 from springs rising not moro than 
 12 in. apart. 
 
 " t*nlo St. Ann the fountain micmt Is; 
 
 Wnb water* hot and cold It* source* rise. 
 
 And in it* sulphur veins there medicine 
 Ilea, 
 
 ThU cure* the pilsird member* of the old. 
 
 And cherishes the nerves grown *1111 and 
 cold. 
 
 Crutch*** lh* lame into' its brink convey, 
 
 Kc laming. the ingrates fling them away." 
 
 J/abbet, * Dt Mirabilitms Peed. 
 
 These waters are sometimes drunk, 
 but chiefly used for hutlis, and 
 are considered efficacious in cases 
 of chronic rheumatism and gout. 
 Chemists are at a loss to discover 
 from what subtle ingredient* they 
 derive their virtues, some being dis- 
 posal to think they proceed from 
 their extreme purity and their im- 
 pregnation with azote ; a pint con- 
 taining a very small quantity of 
 common salt and of carbonate of 
 lime. A chalyU at*- spring rising 
 at a short distance is mixed with 
 those waters so os to form a purgn- 
 
 to bo passed over in silence, is its 
 extreme clearness and transparency. 
 This si*cms, in a groat measure, to 
 be on effect of its i>eculiar tempera- 
 ture, for, when a glass of water is 
 taken out of the bath and suffered to 
 cool, it gradually loses its pellucid 
 appearance, and becomes in a few 
 hours completclv turgid, as if a small 
 {portion of milk (tad been mixed with 
 it, but it recovers again on being 
 hcatM." — Jnritt . 
 
 The chief feature of the town is 
 the Crescent. by Carr, of York, 
 erected by the 5th Duke of Devon- 
 shire in 1781, at a cost of 120,000/., 
 supplied by the profits of the Ecton 
 copper-mine (Hte. 83). It is a hand- 
 some rnnge of building, including 
 an assembly-room, the St. Ann’s 
 and Crescent Hotels, ami a news- 
 room. Hero are the tepid baths, 
 botii public nnd private, supplied 
 with the water ut its naturul tem- 
 perature. 
 
 The hot baths are near the K. end 
 of the Crescent. Here the water is 
 heated to any degree of warmth 
 which may be desired, by the appli- 
 cation of steam. The natural baths 
 and the wells for drinking (includ- 
 ing St Ann’s) are at the W. of tho 
 Crescent, with which all of them aro 
 connected by very light and elegant 
 corridors. f JThey have been rebuilt 
 from dt*signs by Mr. Currey. 
 
 A covered corridor lead* from tho 
 centre of the Crescent to the Sjimre, 
 and forms a sheltered promenade. 
 At the liack of the Crescent aro 
 very oxtcn*ive stables, also built by 
 the Duke in 1781. They are placed 
 round a circular ride, covered in nnd 
 *hndf*d, and are 11*4*1 to exerciso 
 I horse* in wet weather. Part of tho 
 1 building is devoted to the use of tho 
 Devonshire Hospital charity, which 
 maintain* 120 bed*, and relieves 
 about 1000 patients in the y<*ar. 
 
 Opposite it i* the Church of St. 
 John , a foundation of the 0th Duke, 
 The old ch., or more properly 
 
 tive. " A striking peculiarity ,n the 
 Buxton water, and which ought not | 1812. 
 
45 
 
 Boute 7 , — Buxton : St. 
 
 chapel, of St. Anne (Buxton being a 
 chapelry of Bakewell), is a small 
 rude building, probably of the time of 
 Elizabeth ; it now serves as a school- , 
 church. 
 
 St. Anne's Cliff, which rises imme- 
 diately in front of the Crescent, was 
 laid out in terrace walks by Sir J. 
 Wyattville , and forms the chief pro- 
 menade for invalids. Opposite the 
 Old Hall Hotel is the Park , a large 
 enclosure laid out in winding walks, 
 with flower-beds and seats ; the 
 river Wye, which runs through it, is 
 crossed by rustic bridges, and forms 
 lakes and cascades on a very mode- 
 rate scale. Attached to the gardens 
 is a glass “ Pavilion ” with a room 
 400 ft. long, for balls and concerts, 
 and promenades. 
 
 One very pleasant feature of the 
 S. part of Buxton is th a Duke's Drive, 
 which leads from the Ashbourne to 
 the Bakewell road. It is a charming 
 walk or drive, of about 1 m., over- 
 looking the valley of the Wye. It 
 falls into the Bakewell road, a short 
 distance N. of the Lover’s Leap, a 
 deep chasm in the rocks, which in 
 some places appear almost to touch 
 overhead ; the pretty little stream 
 that traverses it yields much to 
 reward the botanist. 
 
 1 m. to the W. of the town, at 
 the foot of Grinlow Hill, is Poole's 
 Hole (or Cavern, as now named 
 by genteel showmen), which has 
 obtained a reputation, not deserved, 
 as one of the wonders of the Peak. 
 It is named, according to the story, 
 from an outlaw and robber who 
 made it his dwelling. The en- 
 trance to it is low and narrow, 
 but bath chairs can be taken in, for 
 the accommodation of invalids. Its 
 length (lighted throughout with gas) 
 is said to exceed 600 yards, but this 
 is an exaggeration. It contains some 
 flne stalactites, and in this respect 
 surpasses the Peak Cavern, to which 
 in all other points it is inferior. To 
 
 Anne's Cliff ’. — Grinlow. 
 
 these fanciful names are given : one 
 is called the Queen of Scots’ Pillar, 
 from a tradition that Mary actually 
 penetrated thus far. The Wye takes 
 its source in this cave, and flows 
 underground for some little distance 
 before it appears to the light of day. 
 
 “ At length the pretty Wye 
 
 From her black mother Poole her nimble 
 course doth ply 
 Tow’rds Darren ” [Derwent]. 
 
 The reputation of the Buxton euri 
 osities was sung by Sir Aston Cokaine 
 in 1658 : — 
 
 “ The Pike to Tennariff 
 An high repute doth give ; 
 
 And the Coloss of brass, 
 
 Whereunder ships did pass, 
 
 Made Rhodes aspire. 
 
 Tonbridge makes Kent renown’d, 
 
 And Epsom Surrye’s ground ; 
 Poole-hole and St. Anne’s Well 
 Makes Darbyshire excell 
 Many a shire.” 
 
 Buxton offers to the tourist 
 many fine walks and drives, the 
 greater part of them depending 
 for their beauty on their eleva- 
 tion. A frequent and easy walk 
 is to Diamond Hill, 2 m. W. ; on 
 the summit of which are the remains 
 of a tower, called Solomon’s Temple, 
 commanding a splendid view. The 
 road to it runs through a ravine, 
 between Grinlow and Laidman’s 
 Low, in which the so-called dia- 
 monds or quartz pebbles are found. 
 The limestone rocks in the neighbour- 
 hood are quarried to a great extent, 
 and burned for lime, which is con- 
 veyed away by tramroads commu- 
 nicating with the High Peak Rly. 
 The hill-side called Grinlow used 
 to be dotted over with the singular 
 dwellings of the workmen, exca- 
 vated in the heaps of refuse lime- 
 stone, which, becoming solid on the 
 surface after exposure to the weather, 
 were hollowed out and propped up 
 by walls. They resembled the bur- 
 rows of animals or the huts of Lap- 
 landers, and, though seldom receiving 
 light, except from the door and 
 chimney, contained several apart- 
 
46 
 
 Route 7 . — Buxton to Manchester. 
 
 ments, and were occupied by whole 
 families of Troglodytes. Of late 
 years, however, proper habitations 
 have been erected for the lime- 
 burners at the adjoining village 
 of Burbage. 
 
 Excursions . — These may be plea- 
 santly made in almost every direc- 
 tion. 
 
 (1) An interesting walk may be 
 taken to Cliee Tor, 5 m. E., passing 
 by Fairfield to WormhtU , where is a 
 curious old house of the Bagshaws. 
 A little beyond Wormhill ch., oppo- 
 site the Hall, a steep and narrow 
 path leads into the depths of the 
 tlale, at a spot where two copious 
 springs of water issue from beneath 
 the rocks and rush down to join the 
 Wye. Their previous course is 
 curious ; they are engulfed in the 
 earth at Water Swallows, near Fair- 
 field, and pursue a subterranean 
 course for 3 m., until they emerge 
 at this spot. Chee Tor is a tall bare 
 rock of limestone, rising out of the 
 wooded valley to a height of at least 
 300 ft., nearly insulated by the river, 
 which makes an almost circular 
 sweep round its base, while the 
 rocks on the opposite side are bent 
 into the form of a crescent or amphi- 
 theatre, concave and partly over- 
 hanging their base. The rly. has 
 fortunately kept at a distance, so 
 the scenery is not marred. Opposite 
 the Tor are several picturesque 
 dales, with Topley Pike in the dis- 
 tance. MtiU Fa / )dU (Stat.1 tor the 
 return to Buxton, is about 2 m. E. 
 
 (2) A somewhat longer excursion 
 may be made on the W. side of 
 Buxton, by passing through BnrJxuje 
 (1 m.), where is a modem Norm, 
 ch., and crossing the branch that 
 connects the works of the Buxton 
 Lime Company with the High Peak 
 rly. ; those are of vast extent, employ- 
 ing several hundred men. At 2} m. 
 from Buxton you reach the foot of 
 Axe Edge, one of the highest hills 
 
 ' in Derbyshire, 1750 ft. above the 
 sea, and still in its primitive condi- 
 tion of moss, heather, and bilberry, 
 affording a good cover for grouse. 
 Indeed, it is the highest, next to the 
 Kinderscout range, between Castle- 
 ton and Glossop. Hero the road 
 divides, that to the rt. going into 
 Cheshire, and that to the 1. to the 
 Staffordshire moorlands (Rte. 34). 
 The pedestrian should take the first, 
 and proceed as far as a little inn, 
 called the Cat and Fiddle (5 m. from 
 Buxton). The view from the sum- 
 mit of Axe Edge embraces a large 
 extent of the high table-lands 
 of Derbyshire, Staffordshire, and 
 Cheshire. Four rivers have their 
 fountain-head here, viz., the Dove 
 and the Wye flowing eastward, and 
 the Dane and Goyt towards the Irish 
 Sea. The return to Buxton may be 
 either by Goyt’s Clough, or by Dale 
 Head, from whence a beautiful view 
 of the Tors at the head of Beresford 
 Dale is obtained. Thence to Stad- 
 don Moor, where some ancient earth- 
 works may be noticed, and then into 
 Buxton by the Duke s Drive. The 
 extreme distance will be 12 m. ; but 
 the walk over the summit of Axo 
 Edge, w hich is essential to the attain- 
 ment of the best rivers, is rather 
 rough. 
 
 (3) An excursion to Wlmley Bridge 
 (G m.), by the coach road to Stock- 
 port, leads through some fine scenery. 
 The road rises for about 2 in. beyond 
 Buxton, and then descends for nearly 
 5 m.; it is well selected and car- 
 ried round the shoulder of Comb's 
 Moss, through Windy Gap ; at its 
 highest point it is at least 1700 ft 
 above the sea. On the N.W. spur 
 of the hill is a well-preserved Roman 
 camp. The village of Fcrnilee pre- 
 sents nothing remarkable, but close 
 adjoining is Ericood Hall (S. Grim- 
 shawe, Esq.), a modem Italian 
 mansion, Ix-autifully situated at the 
 juuction of two wooded dales. Abovo 
 it arc bold moors, but the ground to 
 
Route 7 . — Dove Holes . — Chapel-en-le Frith. 47 
 
 the E. is an uninteresting open 
 district of pastnre-land, destitute 
 of trees, and intersected by stone 
 walls. The road runs near the High 
 Peak Ely., and passes on E. the 
 stationary engine-house used for 
 drawing waggons- up the summit 
 incline. Soon after, the pretty vil- 
 lage of Taxal (in Cheshire) is reached, 
 and next Whaley Bridge , a much 
 more pleasant spot than the majority 
 of factory districts. (See Handbook 
 for Cheshire.) The rly. furnishes a 
 ready means of return to Buxton, or 
 of proceeding to Stockport, Man- 
 chester, &c. 
 
 (4) Several places in the vicinity of 
 stations may yet be more agreeably 
 visited by road. Among them are, 
 the Peak Forest, 5 m.; Tideswell, 
 7 m. ; Lyme Hall, 13 m. ; and Had- 
 don Hall, 14 m. Eyam and Castle- 
 ton are each about 12 m. from Bux- 
 ton, and quite remote from railways, 
 but an omnibus runs daily to Castle- 
 ton in the summer. 
 
 Conveyances from Buxton. — Bail 
 to Stockport and Manchester ; to 
 Matlock and Derby. 
 
 Distances. — Bakewell, 12 m. ; 
 Chatsworth, 14 ; Haddon Hall, 14 ; 
 Miller’s Dale, 5 ; Tideswell, 7 ; 
 Ashford, 10 J ; Dove Holes, 3 ; Castle- 
 ton, 12 ; Chapel-en-le-Frith, 6 ; Leek, 
 12 ; Longnor, 6J ; Axe Edge, 3| ; Mac- 
 clesfield, 12 ; Whaley Bridge (by 
 rail), 9. 
 
 Leaving Buxton, the North- 
 Western line runs at the foot of 
 Comb’s Moss through a bleak 
 country, the chief industry of which 
 appears to be lime-burning, to 
 
 3 m. Dove Holes (Stat.). The 
 place, which ' is a hamlet of Worm- 
 hill, derives its name from some of 
 the swallow-holes so prevalent in 
 this district, where brooks suddenly 
 disappear to run a subterranean 
 course. Here the Midland line to 
 Manchester crosses the other route, 
 in a tunnel and deep cutting, a 
 heavy landslip in which blocked it 
 
 up for a considerable time in the 
 summer of 1872. 
 
 About 1J m. N.E., near Barmoor 
 Clough, a little off the Castleton 
 road, is the “ ebbing and flowing- 
 well,” usually considered one of “ the 
 wonders of Derbyshire,” though its 
 action is readily accounted for, on 
 the principle of the syphon. “It 
 is,” says Adams, “an intermittent 
 spring, the frequency of its action 
 depending on the quantity of rain 
 which falls, so that in dry weather 
 the stranger may wait in vain for 
 the manifestation of this pheno- 
 menon, but in very wet seasons it 
 will sometimes ebb and flow twice 
 in an hour. The action when it 
 first commences is scarcely perceiv- 
 able, but before the expiration of a 
 minute the water issues with con- 
 siderable force from 9 small aper- 
 tures on the S. and W. sides. It 
 continues to flow about 5 minutes* 
 and in this space of time is supposed 
 to throw out about 120 hogsheads of 
 water. The greatest part of it runs off 
 under the read, and part lapses back 
 again, and the well speedily resumes 
 its original quiet appearance.” 
 
 6 m. Chapel-en-le-Frith (Stat. ; 
 there is also a stat. of the Midland 
 line, | m. N.) consists mainly of a 
 single straight street (Inn : King’s 
 Arms) ; the Ch ., which is dedicated 
 to St. Thomas a Becket, is a very plain 
 structure. Cotton and paper mills, 
 and print works, appear in the low 
 grounds, evidencing approach to the 
 manufacturing districts, and all 
 around are high hills, as Chinley 
 Churn (for cairn, one existing on its 
 summit), 1493 ft., and Dympus, 
 1633 ft. Dympus is the best worth 
 ascending, as the scenery on the N. 
 side is broken and bold, looking- 
 down on the head of Edale and the 
 escarpment of Kinderscout (Ete. 8). 
 
 [The Midland line to Manchester 
 keeps to the N. and E. of the North- 
 Western, and has five stats, in the 
 course of its route before it quits the 
 
48 
 
 Route 8. — Chapel-en-le-Frith to BalccicelL 
 
 county. These are Chinley (3 m. 
 from Chapel-en-le-Frith), Bugsworth 
 (4 m.), Nero Mills (8 in.), Strines 
 (9} m.), and Mar pie (11} m.). 
 Chinley Churn at first separates the 
 two lines, and afterwards they tra- 
 verse tho opposite sides of the 
 valley of the Goyt. For the re- 
 mainder of the route, see Handbook 
 for Cheshire and Lancashire .] 
 
 Soon after leaving Chapel-en-le- 
 Frith en route for Stockport, the Lon- 
 don and North-Western Rly. passes 
 on N. a large reservoir supplied by 
 streams from Comb’s Moss. At the 
 farther end, close to the rly., is the 
 hamlet of Tunstead , where Brindley, 
 the engineer, was bom (1716), and 
 where the skull of “ Dicky of Tun- 
 stead ” is religiously kept, and has a 
 reputation of possessing extraordi- 
 nary and ghostly powers. Above the 
 reservoir, under Eccles Pike (1225 
 ft.), is Bradsha w Halt , once the seat 
 of the Bradshaw family, who were 
 seated here soon after the Conquest. 
 John Bradshaw, who sat as President 
 of the High Court of Justice, was 
 either brother or cousin of the 
 builder of the Hall, Francis Brad- 
 shaw, whose name, arms, and the 
 date 1620, appear on the gateways. 
 It is now occupied as a farmhouse. 
 On one of the landings in the interior 
 is the following inscription : — 
 
 “ Love God and not gould. 
 
 He that loves not mercy, 
 
 Of mercy shall miss ; • 
 
 But he shall have mercy 
 That merciful is." 
 
 9 m. On S. is the Roosdyche , a 
 name said to bo derived from the 
 Koman “ Rhed&gua,” and wliich it is 
 presumed served tho purpose of a 
 racecourse. "It is an artificially 
 formed valley, averaging in width 
 40 paces, and 1300 paces in length. 
 It is in a great measure cut out of 
 the side of a hill, to a depth of from 
 10 to 30 feet, but, where it is most 
 so, it is enclosed on both sides with 
 banks of earth.” 
 
 We cross the Goyt shortly after, 
 and enter Cheshire. 
 
 9J m. Whaley Bridge (Stat.), a 
 manufacturing village, where is the 
 terminus of the High Peak Railway, 
 which communicates with the Peak 
 Forest Canal. In addition to the 
 clean-looking factories, with their 
 little colonies of dwelling-houses, col- 
 liery gins and steam-engines appear, 
 showing the presence of tho eoal 
 formation. The remainder of the 
 route (14} m.) will be found fully 
 described in the Handbook for Che- 
 shire and Lancashire. 
 
 ROUTE 8. 
 
 CHAPEL-EN-LE-FRITH TO BAKEWELU 
 BY CASTLETON, HOPE, HATHER- 
 SAGE, AND EYAM [THE PEAK]. 
 
 BY ROAD. 23 m. 
 
 There are two roads from Chapel- 
 en-le-Frith to Castleton. The more 
 northerly, over Rusliup Edge, is 
 rather the shortest, but presents no 
 feature of interest ; the one by Bar- 
 moor Clough and Sparrow Pit is to be 
 preferred. If the tourist has already 
 seen, or does not care to see, the 
 ebbing well at Barmoor (Rte. 7), ho 
 can take a short cut by Sandywav 
 Head and Paisleys, rejoining the 
 main road at Sparrow Pit. 
 
 [Hence there is a road to Tides- 
 well (6 m. S. E.) (Rte. 6), passing 
 through Beak Forest , a village, tho 
 little chapel of which was onco a 
 
49 
 
 j Route 8 . — Perry foot. — Castleton. 
 
 place of much resort for clandestine 
 marriages. Peak Forest (Stat.) on 
 the Midland line is 3 m. S.W.] 
 
 The way to Castleton lies over 
 pleasant breezy moors, varied only 
 by an occasional clump of trees, a 
 solitary farmhouse, or a wooden gin 
 proclaiming the presence of a lead- 
 mine. 
 
 At Perry foot, 3J m., is one of 
 the water-swallows so character- 
 istic of this part of Derbyshire. 
 The interest, however, is much in- 
 creased by the fact that the stream 
 which here disappears has an under- 
 ground course as far as the Peak 
 Cavern at Castleton, where it again 
 emerges. A little beyond Perry- 
 foot the tourist should turn off to 
 the rt. and ascend Eldon Hill, on 
 the furthest side of which, overlook- 
 ing Peak Forest, is the famous Eldon 
 Hole , concerning which more absur- 
 dities have been written than about 
 any other cave in the kingdom. It 
 is simply a very deep perpendicular 
 cave, “wonderful for nothing but 
 the vast bigness, steepness, and 
 depth of it. But that winds have 
 their vent here is a mistake in those 
 that have writ so ; nor are those 
 verses of Necham’s, concerning the 
 miracles of England, applicable to 
 it : — 
 
 “ Est specus JEoliis ventis obnoxia semper 
 Impetus e gemino maximus ore venit. 
 
 Cogitur injectum velamen adire supernas 
 Partes, descensum impedit aura potens.” 
 
 Sir Aston Cokaine, of Ashbourne, 
 also wrote as follows in 1658 : — 
 
 “ Here on an hill’s side steep 
 Is Elden Hole, so depe, 
 
 That no man living knowes 
 How far it hollow goes.” 
 
 At 4J m., near Surlslow, a foot 
 road on rt. leads to the Hazard 
 Mine, and on to Castleton, through 
 Cave Dale (post). 
 
 The road, which has been gradually 
 rising, now zigzags down the side of 
 Mam Tor (the Mother Hill), 1709 
 
 [Derby, Notts , Leic., & Staff.) 
 
 ft. high, and on many accounts per- 
 haps the most interesting hill in the 
 Peak. The tourist should pause 
 to admire the view of the beautiful 
 and fertile Yale of Hope, which now 
 opens below him, framed in a setting 
 of hills, among which may be named, 
 beside Mam Tor, Lose Hill, and the 
 conical tump of Win Hill, the range 
 that separates the Yalley of Hope 
 from that of Edale. 
 
 Drawing near to Castleton, we 
 enter the Yale of the Winniatts or 
 Windgates, once the only coach road 
 from Buxton. It is in its way per- 
 haps the finest thing in Derbyshire. 
 It is a magnificent pass, about J a 
 mile in length, the mountain lime- 
 stone cliffs rising in fantastic forms 
 to the height of about 400 ft. on 
 either side. Yery few are the days 
 in the year in which there is not a 
 piercing wind through the defile, 
 which has thus obtained its name. 
 The view of Castleton and the vale, 
 as seen from the setting of rocks, is 
 wondrously pretty. At the bottom 
 of the pass, which has a melancholy 
 reputation for the foul murder of a 
 couple on their wedding tour, is a 
 cottage, the entrance to the Speed- 
 well Mine (post). 
 
 6J m. Castleton (Inns: Castle 
 
 (comfortable); Nag’s Head; Bull’s 
 Head ; lodgings may also be had). 
 This, a village of some 700 Inhab., 
 is the centre of the Peak district, 
 and the head-quarters of all that 
 is curious in mine and cavern. It is 
 situated in a cul de sac , opening into 
 the Yalley of Hope, the sides of which 
 are formed of more or less preci- 
 pitous hills, rising in the S. di- 
 rectly from the village in magnificent 
 cliffs, while, on the W. and N., the 
 more distant escarpments of Mam 
 Tor, Bach Tor, and Lose Hill con- 
 tribute to form the amphitheatre. 
 Two or three small streams, such as 
 the Odin Sitch and the Peak’s Hole 
 Water, issuing from the caves and 
 mines of those names, run down the 
 
 D 
 
50 
 
 Route 8. — Cliapel-en 
 
 Talley to join the Noe at Hope. 
 Castleton has from the earliest times 
 enjoyed a ceh hrity from its exten- 
 sive and beautiful eaves, which have 
 been tlie foundation for many an 
 absurd stretch of imagination, com- 
 mencing with 44 Gcrvasins Tilbu- 
 rionsis, who, either out of downright 
 ignorance or a lying humour, tells 
 us a shepherd saw, in the Peak 
 cavern, a sj*acious country, with 
 small rivers running here and there 
 in it. with vast pools of standing 
 water.” 
 
 Local antiquities lmvo hem a 
 mom persistent habitation than is 
 generally found in Derbyshire; 
 Costleton abounding with associa- 
 tions of the Peveril family, whose 
 memory has been for ever embodied 
 by Sir Walt r Scott, although the 
 existence of any ono hearing that 
 nam* in the 17th eenty. is a pure 
 fiction of the novelist. 
 
 The Church, which belonged to 
 the Abb y of Vale Koval in Cheshire, 
 has been much modernized. It is a 
 plain building of mixed styles, with 
 tower at the W. end. surmounted 
 by pinnacles. Internally the visitor 
 should notice a beautiful Norman 
 chancel arch with billet -moulding, 
 an old octagonal font, a modern E. 
 window of stained glass in memory 
 of a late vicar, and some very inte- 
 resting carved oak pews of the 17th 
 centy. Them is a tablet to Mawe, 
 tie mineralogist, and a monument to 
 an f > ( M : ah Hall, *1. 1 80 1 ). 
 with tlie churlish epitaph — 
 
 ••(Juki itun, nrerius, 
 
 V’lW *1101. wvUJit, 
 tJbi alii, nndli*. 
 
 Va*." 
 
 A well-known local geologist, 
 named Elias Hall, is buried in the 
 churrhyanl. 
 
 The library in the vc«try. a legacy 
 from a form- r vicar to tie parish, 
 contains a black • letter P.d 1*\ dnt. 
 1539, and a “ Brorrhcs Bible.** 
 Several old customs ling* r yet in 
 Cast lot on, such as ringing the curf*w 
 
 Ic-Frith to BalceweU. 
 
 from tho 29th Sopt. to Shrove Tues- 
 day, and tlie placing of a garland 
 on ono of the pinnacles of the tower 
 by the ringers on the 29th of May, 
 and there leaving it till the follow- 
 ing year. 
 
 The Peak Castle crowns tho 
 summit of tlie clifis directly to the 
 S. of the village. It was built by 
 William Peveril, to whom the Con- 
 queror granted large estates in Derby- 
 shire, “upon the principles on which 
 an eagle selects her eyrie, and in such 
 a fashion as if he had intended it, os 
 an Irishman said of tlie Martcllo 
 towers, for the solo purpose of 
 puzzling posterity.” But little is left 
 of it save the lo op, which was at tin 
 S.W. angle of the enclosure, overlook- 
 ing the deep cleft ubove the Peak 
 cavern, being, of course, perfectly in- 
 accessible on this side. Two towers, 
 now nearly destroyed, flanked the 
 E. and W. angles, and were pro- 
 bably erected to command the N. jws- 
 sago up to the castle, which consists 
 of a series of zigzags. Tho keep is a 
 plain triangular tower, the walls of 
 which am about 8 ft. in thickness. 
 The ashlar work of a portion of tin- 
 walls is said to have liecn taken away 
 to repair the oh. at Castleton. The 
 castle enclosure was surrounded by 
 a curtain wall, now dilapidated. The 
 entrance-gate was on the E. side. 
 The interior of tho keep was occupied 
 by 2 apartments, t tin lower ono of 
 which was marked by flights of steps 
 from the outside, and the upper (ac- 
 cording to King, by a platform at- 
 tached to the outer wall. This latter 
 contains a canopied n*oeiw. The 
 erection of “ the ( ’nstrl of Pekc ” mnv 
 b ascrib'd to tic Norman age, though 
 it is not impossible, from its extraor- 
 dinary advantages of position, that a 
 fortr*-** of fuunr sort occupied the 
 ground previously. Altlmiigh built 
 ami held for some time by the descend- 
 ants of Peveril, the mstle afterwanls 
 revert**! to Henry II. The barons 
 obtains! ptstscasion in the reign of 
 
fooute 8 . — Peak Cavern . 
 
 51 
 
 John, but had soon to yield it to 
 Ferrers, Earl of Derby, who took it 
 by assault. In the time of Edward 
 III. it became a part of the Duchy of 
 Lancaster. The Peverils are said by 
 tradition to have lived in great style 
 here, and to have held a splendid 
 tournament in the castle-yard; but 
 the circumscribed area, and the 
 general want of accommodation in 
 the buildings, forbid the notion that 
 it was anything but a temporary resi- 
 dence or a convenient prison. “ In the 
 time of Henry IY. Godfrey Rowland, 
 a poor and simple squire of the 
 county of Derby, petitioned the Parlia- 
 ment against the injuries that had 
 been inflicted on him by Thomas 
 Wandesby, Chivaler (see Bakewell, 
 Rte. 6) and others, who came and 
 besieged his house at Mickel-Longs- 
 don, and, having pillaged the same, 
 carried him off to the Castle of the 
 High Peak, where they kept him six 
 days without meat or drink, and 
 then, cutting off his right hand, sent 
 him adrift.” 
 
 The botanist will find a harvest 
 of ferns on the surrounding rocks, 
 the maidenhair, spleenwort, and cys- 
 topteris being all tolerably plentiful 
 on the grassy hills over the Speed- 
 well and other mines; while Cave 
 Dale produces the rare green spleen- 
 wort, not yet quite extirpated by the 
 traders in ferns, and is also rich in 
 mosses, including the Bryum den- 
 droides. 
 
 The caverns and mines at Castle- 
 ton and its immediate neighbour- 
 hood consist of— 1, the Peak Cavern ; 
 2, Speedwell Level; 3, Blue John 
 Mine ; 4, Odin Mine ; and, 5, Brad- 
 well Cavern. The payments de- 
 manded for visiting most of these are 
 extortionate, and ought to be resisted. 
 
 (1.) The largest and most important 
 is the Peak or Devils Cavern , the 
 entrance to which is about 100 yds. 
 from the village, and immediately 
 
 under the precipice on which is 
 the Peak Castle. From it issues 
 a clear running stream, which has 
 its source at Perryfoot (ante), and, 
 after a long subterranean course, 
 is found again in the Peak Cavern, 
 many parts of which, by the way, 
 are inaccessible after heavy rains. 
 The entrance to the cave is in itself 
 one of the most striking scenes. The 
 large shelving and over-arched plat- 
 form leading into the interior recesses 
 has been used from time immemorial, 
 as the workshop of the twine and 
 rope spinning, which is one of the 
 industries of the village. As seen 
 when emerging from the inner cave, 
 the gaunt and weird-looking machi- 
 nery, the figures flitting to and fro, 
 combined with the reverberation ol 
 their songs and exclamations, and 
 the peculiar ghastliness of the light, 
 have a grotesqueness and wildness 
 peculiarly striking, although some 
 may prefer undisturbed solitude. As 
 the visitor cannot see the cave without 
 the services of the guide, it will be 
 sufficient to point out its leading- 
 features. Soon after passing through 
 the door at the extreme end of 
 the entrance hall, he arrives at the 
 First Water, across which fie was 
 formerly obliged to be ferried in 
 a little boat under a very low arch, 
 so as to reach the great cavern. 
 This has, however, been rendered 
 unnecessary by blasting and the for- 
 mation of a path by the side of the 
 river. The Great Hall is said to be 
 120 ft. in height, and is traversed by 
 a pathway of steps leading to the 
 Second Water. At the farther end 
 of this is a series of detached rocks, 
 the trickling of water down which 
 has procured for it the name of 
 Roger Rain’s House. Next comes 
 the chancel, marked by a gallery, 
 accessible by a rough path. Here a 
 number of lighted candles are pre- 
 pared, which well show off the di- 
 mensions and general contour of this 
 part of the cavern ; and if due notice 
 be given, a choir of singers may be 
 
 D 2 
 
52 
 
 Route 8 . — Chapel-en-le-Frith to Bakeicell. 
 
 stationed to add to the effect. The 
 Devil’s Cellar and the Halfway House 
 are successively reached ; and a pas- 
 sage from thence, containing some 
 natural groined arches, leads to the 
 Great Tom of Lincoln, beyond which 
 is the Victoria Cavern, where a light 
 is run up by a pulley to show the 
 immense height and hollow of the 
 dome. This is the last point 
 reached, the total length of the cave 
 being estimated at 2300 ft. The fee 
 is 2a. (xl. for a single person, but 
 proportionately less for a party, the 
 guide being paid by a salary from 
 the Duke of Devonshire, the pro- 
 prietor of the mountain. 
 
 (2.) The Speedwell Cavern , at the 
 entrance of the Winniatts, is reached 
 by what is in reality a disused mine, 
 commenced about a century ago by 
 some Staffordshire adventurers, who, 
 after vainly working it for 11 years, 
 acknowledged the uselessness of 
 proceeding farther. The visitor 
 descends by a flight of over 100 
 steps to the level or canal, along 
 which he is taken in a boat pro- 
 pelled by means of pegs in the rock. 
 This passage of 750 yds. was blasted 
 through the solid rock, which is of 
 great hardness, in which the quan- 
 tity of powder used is said to have 
 been above 50,000 lbs. The level then 
 opens into the Great Hall, a natural 
 cavern, the size of which is such as 
 to make the roof and bottom invisible 
 to the eye; indeed, rockets have been 
 sent up to the height of 450 ft. with- 
 out reaching the former. The level 
 is carried by an arch across this 
 chasm ; but the boat is left here, and 
 a platform ascended, from which the 
 scene can bo viewed at leisure. 
 Water is reached at a depth of 00 
 ft ; and from the fact of an amazing 
 quantity of rubbish having been ap- 
 parently swallowed up, it is popularly 
 considered to be unfathomable. The 
 probability is, that the debris was 
 carried away as soon as deposited 
 by the running stream. The usual ' 
 
 effects of blue lights and powder 
 blastings are displayed “for a con- 
 sideration.” 
 
 (3.) The Blue John Mine is situ- 
 ated on the side of the Tray cliff, 
 a little to the 1. of the turnpike- 
 road to Buxton. This mine is still 
 worked (principally in the summer 
 time), the average yield of the spar 
 being from 10 to 12 tons a year. 
 In this cave, which runs for about 
 3 m., and doubtless communicates 
 with the rest of the system of ca- 
 verns, the principal attractions aro 
 the masses of stalactite, which are to 
 be seen in great perfection. Notice 
 particularly the one called the Organ, 
 near the entrance. The principal 
 chambers here are Lord Mulgrave's 
 Dining-room, in which that noble- 
 man (who laboured hard to explore 
 the mine, passing 3 days in it at one 
 time) entertained the miners; the 
 Variegated Cavern ; and the Crystal- 
 lized Cavern, the beauties of which 
 are always shown byadditional lights. 
 Blue John or Derbyshire spar is a flu- 
 ate of lime ; the blue colouring matter 
 which distinguishes it and makes it 
 in such request for vases and orna- 
 mental art, being oxide of manganese. 
 The largest vase ever made of it is 
 to be seen at Chatsworth. “ Tray cliff 
 is the only locality where Blue John 
 is met with. It lies in • pipe-veins,' 
 having the same inclination as the 
 rocks which the veins traverse. One 
 of these veins lies in a sort of clayey 
 stratum, and another seems to bo 
 imbedded in the nodule state in a 
 mass of indurated debris. Besides 
 these the whole of the limestone 
 masses aro fractured and cracked ; 
 and in addition to the pipes, the sides 
 of the crusting are lined with beau- 
 tiful sky-blue cubes of fluor and 
 rhombic crystals of calcito.” — Taylor . 
 Small portions, however, of Blue John 
 (not large enough to bo worked) are 
 found in other parts of the county. 
 
 Tho geologist will find in Tray cliff 
 (lower beds) numbers of Phillipsia. 
 
'Route 8 . 1 — Mam Tor. — The Peak. 
 
 53 
 
 (4.) The Odin Mine is on the rt. of 
 the same road, a little farther on, at 
 the foot of Mam Tor. It is believed 
 that lead was worked here during the 
 Eoman era, and pigs of this material, 
 found in Derbyshire, are to be seen 
 in the British Museum inscribed with 
 the names of the Emperors Domitian 
 and Hadrian. Horizontal galleries 
 have been driven for about a mile 
 into this mine, the lower one being 
 for the purpose of draining it ; but 
 after inspecting the foregoing ca- 
 verns it is scarcely worth explora- 
 tion. It produces elastic bitumen. 
 
 (5.) Bagshaw’s Cave, at Bradwell, 
 lies 2 m. S.E. of Oastleton, to the 
 rt. of the road to Hope. This is 
 worth a visit on account of its sta- 
 lactites. 
 
 Cave Dale is a remarkable cleft 
 in the rocks to the E. of Peak 
 Castle, something like the Winniatts 
 on a small scale. From it one of the 
 best views of the castle is obtained. 
 A road leads up it to the Hazard 
 Mine, and across the moor, to join 
 the Buxton road. 
 
 The geologist should not fail to 
 visit Mam Tor. On the N. side it 
 is easy of ascent, grassy, smiling, 
 and tempting ; whilst towards the 
 Castleton valley it presents a precipi- 
 tous escarpment of coal-measure shale 
 and sandstone, impregnated with 
 peroxide of iron. Atmospheric effects, 
 particularly after frost and rain, 
 cause constant disintegration of the 
 strata, the falling of which has given 
 it the name of the Shivering Moun- 
 tain. The summit is occupied by 
 the remains of an early intrench* 
 ment. The geologist will find Goni- 
 atites expansus among the shales at 
 the base, together with G. aviculo- 
 pecten and posidonia. The view 
 from Mam Tor is very charming, par- 
 ticularly looking E. towards Hope; 
 and on the N., over Edale, to Kinder- 
 scout. If the tourist has time, he 
 should descend into the valley oppo- 
 
 site Edale Chapel, and follow it 
 down between Lose and Win Hills 
 (properly Laws and Whin Hills) 
 to Hope; about 6 m. If on his 
 road northward, he should proceed up 
 the valley, and, crossing the neck 
 at Edale Cross, descend to Hayfield 
 (Rte. 9). 
 
 THE PEAK. 
 
 In the country north of Castleton 
 are situated the highest and most 
 mountainous ridges of the county, 
 the deepest valleys, and the wildest 
 moorlands. It is a tract entirely pf 
 gritstone ; of limestone, which has so 
 exclusive a predominance south of 
 Castleton, there is absolutely none, 
 and this difference of geological 
 character produces a marked diffe- 
 rence in the scenery. Instead of 
 green grass, the hills are covered 
 with purple heather. Instead of 
 white rocks forming the basement 
 of sloping uplands, the rocks are 
 here quite black, and crown the 
 summit of ridges tha t descend with a 
 concave sweep into the valleys. The 
 great block of mountain called in 
 the Ordnance Map “the Peak,” is 
 really an extensive plateau comprising 
 the several summits of Kinderscout, 
 the Edge, Fairbrook Naze, Ashop 
 Moor, Seal Edge, Madwoman’s Stones, 
 Edale Moor, &c. Kinderscout, 1981 
 ft., is the highest and most import- 
 ant of them all, and gives its name to 
 the whole block. From the escarped 
 nature of its sides, numerous romantic 
 little ravines, or “ doughs,” as they 
 are locally called, are to be found, par- 
 ticularly on the S., overlooking Edale, 
 and on the W., over Hayfield. It is 
 the more picturesque because still in 
 a condition of primitive moorland. 
 Some of its rocky glens, such as 
 Fairbrook Naze, are more like Scot- 
 land than a midland county. 
 
 Each “dough” has its brooklet, 
 or waterfall ; and the one known as 
 Kinder Downfall, precipitated over 
 Kinderscout, is a really picturesque 
 
54 
 
 Boute 8. — Chapel-en - i 
 
 fall, and should by all moans be 
 made a special excursion fruni Hay- 
 field. “ The water descends by 
 leaps, from ledge to ledge, for the 
 space of 400orf>00 ft. ; and in stormy 
 weather, when the wind blows hard, 
 the water, blown into spray, ex- 
 tends a quarter of a milo in width.’’ 
 Following up the stream of the 
 Kinder Water, tho geologist will 
 meet with a thick deposit of tra- 
 vertine, containing impressions of 
 leaves, mosses, &c„ similar to that of 
 Matlock. This deposit is tho more 
 remarkable from its being found in 
 millstone grit, a circumstance of 
 some rarity. 
 
 * The great’ valleys lie in this dis- 
 trict; Male to the N.W., the valley 
 of the Derwent to the N.E., and be- 
 tween the two the valley of the 
 Ashop. All these may be visited in 
 a carriage. 
 
 (1.) Edale, one of the loveliest and 
 most pastoral valleys of Derbyshire, 
 attractive from its very isolation and 
 I>eacefulness, is guarded on the S. by 
 the Mam Tor and on the N. by the 
 whole extent of the lvindcrseout. 
 This vale is entered from Hope, and 
 is traversed in its whole length by 
 the Noe, a little winding stream. 
 To the N.E. is Edale Chapel, a small 
 edifice rebuilt in 1810, and farther 
 on, a lace-thread mill, the employes 
 of which have to cross the mountain 
 daily to and from their work. The 
 head of Mule is its most picturesque 
 part; here it becomes a narrow gorge, 
 with a tumbling stream, and rocks 
 crowning the slope, but the carriage 
 (if provided with a good horse) 
 comes out by a steep cart road over 
 Mam Tor, whence a lovely view of 
 this secluded valley is obtained. 
 
 (2.) Valley of the Athop and the 
 Woodland a. — Take the Cn.stleton 
 road to fcjheifield as far as My t ham 
 Bridge, 4 m., and then turn off to 
 Bamford (where is a cotton mill, and 
 a new church built by Butterfyld). 
 
 le-Frith to Bakevccll. 
 
 At Ashopton (7 m.) you join the old 
 coach road from (Sheffield to Glossop 
 and Manchester. Here is the junction 
 of the Derwent with the Lady Bower 
 Brook and the Ashop, which takes 
 its rise in the northern recesses of 
 Kinder -scout. The Axhopton Inn 
 
 (also culled “The Snake”) is small, 
 but can be thoroughly recommended. 
 Turning westward, lor the first 2 m. 
 the scenery has little interest; then 
 come the Woodlands , a woody glen 
 not surpassed in picturesqueness by 
 any in the county. After passing a 
 small Wesleyan chapel on rt. tho 
 valley changes in character— it be- 
 comes a defile, and the mountain 
 ranges are cleft by deep gorges and 
 advance in precipitous promontories. 
 All the slopes which are not bare 
 rocks are covered with heather and 
 abound in grouse. At 6£ m. from 
 Ashopton is a second Snake Inn , 
 small, but very com for table, and 
 much resorted to by shooting jwirtii s. 
 From here the ascent of Kinderfrcout 
 is best made. The distance is 3 m. 
 to the top. To have a good view of 
 the mountain the tourist should pro- 
 ceed about £ m. beyond the inn. 
 The manufacturing town of Glnssop 
 lies % m. W. (Bta 9) ; aad the whoM 
 distance from Castleton is 14 m. 
 
 (3.) Tho valley of the Derwent 
 may be visited in conjunction with 
 that of the Ashop. From tho Inn 
 at Ashopton, a road running N. on 
 the E. bank of the Derwent leads 
 to the preity village of Derwent 
 Chapel (1£ m.), mar which is tho 
 fine old Hall, formerly tho seat of 
 the Newdigates, but now belongs to 
 the Duke of Norfolk. 
 
 Tho Derwent— ( Dicr-gwent , fair 
 water) — 
 
 ••Barron. whoM* fount and fall arc both in 
 Derbyshire" — 
 
 from its source in Featherbed Moor, 
 about 3 m. from Woodhcad 8tnt. on 
 tho Manchester, Sheffield, and Lin- 
 | colnshire line, presents many a pic- 
 
55 
 
 J Route 8. — Hope. — Hathersage. 
 
 turesque reach, with woods and cop- 
 pices feathering down to the water’s 
 edge, and the bare moors of the 
 Yorkshire plateau rising up more or 
 less abruptly. From its source to 
 Mytham Bridge the distance is some 
 13 m. It afterwards passes by Chats- 
 worth, Rowsley (where it is joined 
 by the Wye), Matlock, Duffield, &c., 
 and falls into the Trent below Derby. 
 The Inn at Ashopton, called, like 
 that farther W., “ The Snake, : ” is a 
 place of great resort for Sheffield 
 excursionists, and some of the saloon 
 omnibuses once known in London 
 run between the two places almost 
 daily in summer. The trip is a 
 pleasant one (11 m.), giving good 
 views of the Hallam moors and of 
 the valley of the Rivalin, in which 
 are large reservoirs for the water 
 supply of Sheffield. Comfortable 
 quarters may be had at the 
 Snake, whence to explore the 
 neighbouring scenery, and to visit 
 those singular rock formations known 
 as “ The Cakes of Bread,” “ The 
 Saltcellar,” overlooking the valley 
 from Derwent Edge, and the rock- 
 basins on Stanage Edge, close to the 
 cave called “ Robin Hood’s.” Ashop- 
 ton is 6 m. from Hathersage ; 3 from 
 Mytham Bridge ; 4 from Hope ; 1^ 
 from Derwent Chapel; and 13 from 
 Glossop. 
 
 Resuming the direct route from 
 Castleton, and passing a cupola fur- 
 nace for lead-smelting, the tourist 
 enters at 
 
 8 m. the village of Hope , which 
 gives its name to a beautiful vale 
 extending 6 m. from E. to W. and 
 about 1 m. in breadth. The Perp. 
 ch. has an E. E. tower at the W. 
 end, surmounted by an octagonal 
 broach spire. A parapet runs round 
 the clerestory, aisles, and choir. The 
 porch has a chamber in the upper 
 part, together with a canopied niche 
 with a figure. The gurgoyles are 
 peculiar. The Balguys, a family of 
 old standing, possessed large estates 
 
 at Hope in the 17th centy. The 
 parish of Hope is of enormous extent, 
 some 40,000 acres, one-half of which 
 is occupied by the tract called Hope 
 Woodlands. 
 
 At 9 m., in the angle formed by the 
 junction of the Brad well Brook with 
 the Noe, at Brough, is a rectangular 
 Roman camp, where at different 
 times remains, such as coins, tiles, 
 &c., have been excavated. The Bath- 
 am road, which runs over Tides well 
 Moor to Buxton, terminates here ; 
 while another road runs in a north- 
 westerly direction to Glossop, where 
 was the Roman station of Melandra. 
 
 At 10 j m. Mytham Bridge, the Noe 
 joins the Derwent, which flows in 
 from the N. 
 
 At 12 m. on an eminence over- 
 looking the valley of the Derwent, 
 both W. and S., is the charmingly pic- 
 turesque village of Hathersage ( Inns : 
 Ordnance Arms ; George), at the foot 
 of the southern slopes of Bamford and 
 Stanage Edges. Its principal fea- 
 ture is its Dec. Ch., which has been 
 well restored by Butterfield. It con- 
 sists of nave, chancel, and side-aisles, 
 with clerestory, together with a 
 square tower of 3 stages, surmounted 
 by an octagonal spire at the W. end. 
 The principal attraction in the inte- 
 rior is the stained glass. Some of 
 the windows were presented by the 
 villagers, and the western one by the 
 family of Eyre, once lords of the 
 manor, whose old residence and de- 
 cayed Chapel still remains at North 
 Lees, about 1J m. N. of Hathersage, 
 up the valley of the Hood brook. 
 
 The altar-tomb of Robert Eyre (d. 
 1459), who fought at Agincourt, and 
 his wife (Joan Padley) and 14 chil- 
 dren is in the chancel, and there are 
 both earlier and later Eyre monu- 
 ments and brasses. The old practice 
 of hanging funeral garlands up in 
 the ch. was followed here until a 
 comparatively recent date. There 
 is a great factory in the village for 
 
56 Route 8. — Chapel-en - i 
 
 needles, hooks, and umbrella frames. 
 At a short distance from this factory, 
 a square block of stone projects from 
 the wall, which bears the name of the 
 Gospel-stone, “ from having been, in 
 former times, occupied by the clergy- 
 men, who stood upon it on three dif- 
 ferent days in Rogation week to pray 
 for an abundant supply of the fruits 
 of the earth.” — Dr. JIuIl. 
 
 Hathersage, according to local 
 traditions, was the residence and 
 burial-place of Little John, the leal 
 companion and trusty friend of Robin 
 Hood. The house has been taken 
 down, but the grave remains, marked 
 by two stones, 13 ft. 4 in. asunder, 
 near the ch. porch. The first time 
 that Little John is heard of is at the 
 battle of Evesham, in 1265, where, 
 say some, he shared in the defeat 
 of the forces under Montfort, and, 
 being outlawed, straightway retired 
 into the forests of Notts and Derby- 
 shire with Robin and his merry men, 
 in company with whom he was vir- 
 tual master of the country to the N. 
 of the Trent, and levied black mail 
 with impunity on wealthy priors 
 and merchants journeying to York. 
 In addition to the popular belief that 
 he w’as buried at Hathersage, the 
 grave is said to have been opened 
 within the last hundred years by Capt. 
 Shuttlew , orth,who exhumed a gigan- 
 tic thighbone, 32 inches long. It was 
 replaced, but again dug out, and car- 
 ried away, together with Little John’s 
 green cap that hung up in the church, 
 by some Yorkshire antiquaries. 
 
 The early remains in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Hathersage are interest- 
 ing, and have been explored by Sir 
 Gardner Wilkinson. Near the ch. is a 
 camp, said to be Danish, but more 
 likely British ; and on Hathersage 
 Moor, which rises to the K. of the 
 village, there is a British fortification, 
 known as Carls \Yark % ** in which the 
 eastern extremity, having on three 
 sides a precipitous clifT, was divided 
 from the rest of the hill by a strong 
 vallum, extending from one side to 
 
 le-Frith to Balcewcll. 
 
 the other, and closing the approach 
 on the west side.” — G. W. The val- 
 lum is about 17 ft. thick, and 150 ft. 
 in length, has an outer facing of 
 masonry, and a gateway on the 
 south side. Circles and tumuli are 
 found on most of the adjoining moors,, 
 as on Eyam Moor, to the S., and 
 Offerton Moor, between Hathersage 
 and Tideswell. On Higgar Tor , E. r 
 some very remarkable stones, of mon- 
 strous size, are piled up, but by what 
 agency is doubtful; and there is a 
 Rocking Stone on Booth’s Edge, a 
 little to the rt. of the road leading 
 to Sheffield. The view from Hu-gaer 
 or Higgar is very extensive, embrac- 
 ing to the N. and W. the long plateau 
 of Kinderscout, Lose and Win Hills, 
 Mam Tor, Tray cliff, and the Hal- 
 lamsliire moors ; whilst to the S. are 
 the wooded valleys of the Derwent 
 and its tributary streams, extending 
 as far as Chatsworth and Rowsley, 
 beyond which, in the distance, Crom- 
 ford Hill closes the view. 
 
 [From Hathersage there is a choice 
 of roads to Sheffield, all traversing 
 a beautiful moorland district, but 
 varying in length from 11 to 15 m : — 
 1 . Up the Bidgeicay (an old Roman 
 road to Stanage Edge), on the other 
 side of which is Lord’s Seat and the 
 Reservoir of Redmires, a favourite 
 excursion with Sheffield Sunday holi- 
 day-makers. 2. The road by Higgar 
 Tor , which on the summit of the 
 moors crosses the heads of the Bur- 
 bage Brooks, and runs into Sheffield 
 through Ecclesall Bierlow’. 3. Over 
 Booth 7 8 Edge , passing Longshaw 
 Lodge, a shooting-box of the Duke of 
 Rutland, and joining the road from 
 Grindleford Bridge at Fox House 
 Inn. This road enters Yorkshire at 
 Whirlow Bridge, on the little river 
 Sheaf. Here a detour of about 1 m. 
 should be made eastward to visit the 
 remains of Beaucliief Abbey (Rte. 
 4). Hence it is 4 m. to Sheffield 
 (sec JJandt>ook for Yorkshire). 
 
 A singular feature of these moors 
 
57 
 
 Boute — Eyam: CucJclet Church. 
 
 is in connection with the Hallam- 
 shire hunt, which scours (on foot) 
 the whole of this wild country on 
 the confines of Derbyshire and 
 Yorkshire. The hounds are kept 
 principally in the neighbourhood of 
 Hallam, and billeted on the residents 
 of the different villages, whose love 
 for the chase has been proverbial ever 
 since the days of Robin Hood. The 
 distance of some of the runs is almost 
 fabulous, and speaks volumes for the 
 “ wind” of the Sheffield grinders.] 
 
 Leaving Hathersage, and follow- 
 ing the course of the Derwent, from 
 the bridge across which there is a 
 charming landscape both up and 
 down ; and passing on E. the woods 
 of Padley, one of the estates of the 
 Eyres, we arrive at Grindleford 
 Bridge (14J m.) ; and at 15 m. di- 
 verge considerably to the W., to the 
 village of Eyam. There is another, 
 and somewhat shorter road over 
 Eyam Moor, on which will be noticed 
 a circle of ten stones, all that remain 
 of the original sixteen ; it is of the 
 class of monuments which Sir Gard- 
 ner Wilkinson calls “encircled cairns,” 
 The way is by Highlow Brook (on 
 the banks of which is the old Hall 
 of Highlow) over the moor, crossing 
 the road to the lofty hill called Sir 
 William, and descending into Eyam 
 through a very picturesque dell. 
 
 Eyam (pronounced Eem), is en- 
 shrined in the memory of all, by the 
 frightful visitation to which it was 
 exposed, and the heroic examples of 
 self-sacrifice there exhibited. 
 
 The village was attacked by the 
 plague in 1665 so virulently that 267 
 out of the 350 Inhab. fell victims to 
 it. To limit as much as possible the 
 spread of the pestilence in the 
 district, the Rev. Wm. Mompesson, 
 the rector, with the assistance of the 
 Earl of Devonshire, established a 
 cordon round the village, beyond 
 which no one was allowed to pass 
 from the world without; and so 
 great was the respect and love with 
 
 which he was regarded, that he pre- 
 vailed upon his parishioners to volun- 
 tarily restrict themselves within the 
 boundary. The Earl supplied them 
 with provisions, and the few other 
 articles that they needed, being de- 
 posited just without the boundary, 
 were paid for with money placed in 
 troughs of running water, which are 
 common in the district. One of 
 these on the way to Sir William’s is 
 still known as Mompesson's well. 
 For more than a year did the rector 
 and his wife (Catherine, daughter of 
 Ralph Carr, of Cocker, co. Durham), 
 having sent away their children, 
 devote themselves utterly to their 
 flock; and they were cordially as- 
 sisted by the Rev. Thos. Stanley, the 
 former rector, ejected by the Act of 
 Uniformity, who still resided in the 
 village. Unfortunately, in August, 
 1666, the pestilence burst out more 
 fiercely than ever, carrying off Mrs. 
 Mompesson and the greater part of 
 the surviving villagers. On the hill- 
 side, at some distance from the ch., 
 are many graves, one of which in par- 
 ticular, called the Riley stones, com- 
 memorates the resting-place of one 
 family of the name of Hancock, all 
 7 of whom died in one week. To 
 reduce the danger of infection, Mr. 
 Mompesson closed the ch., and held 
 daily service in a natural opening 
 in the rocks in the adjoining ravine 
 of Cucklet Delph. This spot is still 
 called Cucklet Church, and the rock 
 whence he addressed his people, 
 seated far apart on the grass, is 
 known as the Pulpit Rock : — 
 
 “Here a rude arch, not form'd by mortal 
 hands, 
 
 Th' unconsecrated church of Cucklet stands ; 
 
 To this sequester’d spot, where all might 
 seem 
 
 The sweet creation of a poet’s dream, 
 
 Mompesson saw his suffering flock repair, 
 
 Daily as toll’d the sabbath bell for prayer, 
 
 When through th’- afflicted village, wild 
 with dread, 
 
 And lost to hope, the plague contagion 
 spread : 
 
 Here from a rocky arch, with foliage hung, 
 
 Divinest precepts issue from his tongue ; 
 
 D 3 
 
58 
 
 Route 8 . — Chapel-en-le-Frith to BakeweU. 
 
 To all, his kindly aid the priest affords, 
 
 They feel his love, and live upon his words.” 
 Rhodes. 
 
 Mr. Mompesson had not resided 
 above a year at Eyam, and from a 
 letter that has been preserved it 
 seems he was about to relinquish the 
 living when the plague broke out. 
 He then resolved not to abandon his 
 people, though he wished to send 
 liis family away. In 1G69 he was 
 presented to the living of Eakring, 
 near Southwell, but the people for a 
 while refused to receive him, lest he 
 should still have the plague about 
 him, and he resided in a hut built 
 for him in Rufford Park until their 
 fears abated. He became a prebend 
 of Southwell, but retained his living 
 of Eakring, and died there March 7, 
 1709, aged 70. 
 
 Eyam Church has been added to 
 at various times, but is not so well 
 cared for as that of Hathersage. It 
 consists of nave, chancel, and aisles, 
 with tower rising from the west end, 
 this latter having been built by a 
 maiden lady of the name of Stafford, 
 t. James I. In the ch.-yard are some 
 -extraordinary epitaphs. Notice also 
 the tomb of Mrs. Mompesson, and a 
 runic cross in good preservation; it 
 was found on the adjoining moor, and 
 was set up by John Howard. Above 
 the village are Eyam Hall (J. 
 Wright, Es<j.) and a portion of 
 the old mansion of the Staffords, who 
 for several generations were proprie- 
 tors of the district. The bells in the 
 ch. # on which are inscribed, “ Jesvs 
 bee our spede,” and “ God save His 
 Church/’ were the gift of Madame 
 Stafford, the builder of the tower, 
 1619. Eyam has been the residence 
 of several literary characters, as Miss 
 Seward, the Rev. Peter Cunning- 
 ham, and John Furness, a Derbyshire 
 poet of considerable celebrity, author 
 of the ‘Rag Bug.’ From this cir- 
 cumstance it has been dignified with 
 the high-flown name of the Athens 
 of the Peak. The scenery in the 
 immediate neighbourhood of Eyam 
 
 is highly romantic, 2 ravines de- 
 scending from the village into Mid - 
 dleton Dale. The cliffs here rise to a 
 great height, particularly at the en- 
 trance to Eyam Dale, where a large 
 buttress of limestone is named the 
 Castle Rock. In Cucklet Delph is 
 a charming little chasm called Saltpan 
 Rock. 
 
 The rock scenery of Middleton 
 Dale is remarkably fine ; particularly 
 at the Lover’s Leap (overhanging the 
 Inn of the same name), where about 
 a centy. ago a young woman whose 
 unrequited affection preyed upon her 
 mind, leapt down ; but, owing to her 
 fall being broken by a tree, she was 
 not killed, though crippled for the re- 
 mainder of her life. In the dale are 
 barytes works, and at its extremity, 
 at 17 in., the large mining village of 
 Stoney Middleton , where are tepid 
 baths erected by the late Lord Den- 
 man, over springs supposed to have 
 been known to the Romans. The 
 situation of the houses, one above the 
 other on the ledges of the rocks, 
 make it one of the most picturesquo 
 villages in Derbyshire. Tho cli. 
 (which has been restored) is of oc- 
 tagonal shape, erected in 1767, but 
 with a low square tower of ancient 
 date. Adjoining it is MidAleton Hall , 
 the seat of Lord Denman, who has 
 made a pleasant residence of the old 
 farmhouse. 
 
 A short distance E. of Middleton, 
 the Derwent is crossed by a good 
 modern bridge, at Calver , whero 
 there is a large cotton factory, and 
 the road keeps beside the river to 
 
 19 m. B a slow {Inns: Peacock; 
 Wheatshcaf ), a convenient spot 
 from whence the tourist, descending 
 the Derwent, can explore the beauties 
 of Ciiats worth. It is a neat vil- 
 lage, with a very pretty ch. by the 
 waterside, under the fostering care of 
 the Duke of Devonshire. Northward, 
 the road to Sheffield pnsscs over 
 Curbar Edge and Froggatt Edge, 
 uffording somo striking moorland 
 | scenery. Passing 8.W. over tho high 
 
59 
 
 Route 9 . — Buxton to Hayfield. — Glossop. 
 
 ground of Pilsley , with Edensor on 
 E., we reach at 
 
 23 m. Bakewell (Rte. 6). 
 
 ROUTE 9. 
 
 BUXTON TO HAYFIELD AND 
 GLOSSOP. 
 
 BY ROAD. 15 m. 
 
 Both these places can be reached 
 by rly., but the route, especially to 
 Glossop, is very circuitous, and the 
 tourist is recommended to proceed 
 by the line only as far as Chapel-en- 
 le-Frith (6 m., see Rte. 7). 
 
 Leaving that town we cross in the 
 course of the next 2 m. no less than 
 3 picturesque little streams, which 
 rising in the mountainous region of 
 the Peak flow westward into the 
 Goyt, and eventually are lost in the 
 Mersey. A few scattered paper 
 mills and other factories that 
 mainly depend on water power are 
 seen, but nothing like a connected 
 village, until, at 5 m., we reach Hay- 
 jield , standing very picturesquely 
 on the banks of the Sett, a rapid 
 stream that comes down from the S. 
 face of Kinderscout, which is the 
 proper name for the loftiest part 
 of the Peak. Large calico-printing 
 works give employment to most of 
 the people, and the whole place has 
 a very business-like aspect. A short 
 branch rly. puts it in connection 
 with Stockport, Manchester, &c. 
 1 m. E. is the hamlet of Kinder , 
 at which also are large print works, 
 
 passing by which the ascent of 
 Kinderscout, or the descent into 
 Edale, may be accomplished (Rte. 8). 
 
 From Hayfield the distance to 
 Glossop is 4 m., the road command- 
 ing very fine prospects all the 
 way. Outlying hamlets, as Chunal, 
 Charlesworth, Simmondly, and Whit- 
 field, are all busy manufacturing 
 places, but Charlesworth and Whit- 
 field have each really handsome 
 modern churches. The road, which 
 has hitherto been on very high 
 ground, now begins to sink, and at 
 15 m. from Buxton we enter the 
 thriving manufacturing town of 
 Glossop (Hotel: Norfolk Arms). 
 
 The town (Pop. 17,000) stands in 
 a hollow, but is surrounded by very 
 fine scenery, the reservoirs for the 
 supply of Manchester with water 
 forming a striking feature, whilst 
 another is found in the great rail- 
 way Viaduct , which spans the Din- 
 ting valley ; it is 1 20 ft. high, and 
 consists of 16 arches, each 125 ft. 
 span. Glossop Hall (Lord Howard 
 of Glossop) is in the French chateau 
 style, and the grounds are very fine. 
 The Ch. has a good tower and spire, 
 built by the Duke of Norfolk in 
 1855, and it contains a monument 
 by Bacon , to a Mr. Hague, a* local 
 benefactor; but the building is not 
 at all equal to the R. C. church, 
 which is by far the finest edifice in 
 the place, and has a nunnery and 
 schools attached. There are several 
 large cotton and print works, and 
 the new part of the town, on the 
 Sheffield road, is a great improve- 
 ment on what still remains of the 
 original village of Old Glossop. 
 
 The reservoirs above-mentioned are 
 formed by impounding a portion of 
 the waters of the Ether ow, a bright 
 stream that descends from the 
 moors N. of Glossop. They con- 
 sist of fine vast lakes, or “lodges” 
 as they are termed, which have dams 
 of amazing solidity, and in wet sea- 
 sons the water descends from one 
 to the other in a series of absolute 
 
60 
 
 Route 9 . — Derby to Nottingham. 
 
 cataracts, volume making ample 
 amends for the moderate fall. The 
 Arnfield and Hollingworth reservoirs 
 contain 48 million cubic feet of 
 water ; Rhodes Wood holds 80 mil- 
 lion ; Torside covers 100 acres, and 
 holds 240 million; and Woodhead, 
 the uppermost, has 200 million. 
 They are calculated to supply Man- 
 chester with 30 million of gallons a 
 day, and the cost of construction 
 was 1,300,000/. The scenery of the 
 hills is very fine, and, together with 
 the bold water and railway works, 
 will well repay a visit. Near the 
 upper reservoir is the summit tunnel 
 of the Manchester, Sheffield, and 
 Lincolnshire Rly., 5300 yards in 
 length, or more than 3 m. If the 
 pedestrian does not mean to return 
 to Glossop, he can make his way 
 from Dun ford Bridge Stat., at the 
 E. end of the tunnel, down the 
 valley of the Derwent, to the Snake 
 inn at Ashopton. The views are very 
 fine, but the distance is full 12 m., 
 and the walking is difficult. 
 
 ROUTE 10. 
 
 DERBY TO NOTTINGHAM, BY TRENT 
 JUNCTION. 
 
 MIDLAND RAILWAY. 13$ m. 
 
 On quitting Derby Stat., this line 
 turns S.E., passing over the alluvial 
 ground between the Trent and the 
 Derby canal. On N., at 2 m. f is the 
 cemetery, and near H the village of 
 Chaddesden , the ch. of which con- 
 tains several monuments of the Wil- 
 mot family. Chaddesden Hall (Sir 
 II. Wilmot. Bart.) 
 
 2$ m. Spondon (Stat.). The ch. is 
 a handsome Dec. edifice, with lofty 
 spire. The date of its erection is 
 
 approximately fixed by an entry on 
 the Patent Roll, of August 24, 1340,. 
 which grants a delay in the pay- 
 ment of a subsidy to the men of 
 Spondon in consequence of their 
 church, and the whole of the town 
 except four houses, having been 
 destroyed by fire in the preceding" 
 Lent. Spondon Hall (W. T. Cox, 
 Esq.), Locko Park (W. H. Lowe, 
 Esq.), 1 m. N., contains some good 
 paintings by Guercino, A. del Sarto,. 
 G. Poussin, Canaletti, Holbein, Ru- 
 bens, S. del Piombo, &c. On one 
 side of the house is a chapel of the 
 17tli centy., with the inscription 
 “ Domus mea vocabitur domus ora- 
 tionis.” 
 
 [ Spondon is the nearest stat. from 
 whence to visit the ruins of Dale 
 Abbey, 3 m. to the N.E., founded at 
 the commencement of the 13th centy. 
 by William Fitzrauf, Seneschal of 
 Normandy, and Jeffery de Salicosa. 
 Mara, his son-in-law, for Praemon- 
 stratensian monks. An ancient 
 legend gives a different account of 
 the origin of the foundation : — 
 “ There once lived in the street of St. 
 Mary in Derby a baker who was 
 particularly distinguished by his 
 great charity and devotion. After 
 having spent many years in acts of 
 benevolence and piety, he was in a 
 dream called to give a very trying 
 proof of his good principles. He 
 was required by the Virgin Mary to 
 relinquish all liis substance, to go 
 to Depe Dale, and hi lead a solitary 
 life in the service of her Son and 
 herself. He accordingly left all his 
 possessions and departed, entirely 
 ignorant of the place to which ho 
 should go. Rut directing his course 
 to the east, and passing through the 
 village of Stanley, he heard a woman 
 saying to a girl, 4 Take with thee our 
 calves and drive them to Depe Dale, 
 and return immediately.’ Regarding 
 this event ns a particular interposi- 
 tion of Providence, he proceeded with 
 the girl to Dope Dale, and found it a 
 
Boute 10 . — Dale 
 
 very marshy land, and distant from 
 all human habitation. Proceeding 
 from thence to the E., he came to a 
 rising ground, and, under the side of 
 the hill, cut in the rock a small dwell- 
 ing, and built an altar towards the 
 S., and there spent day and night in 
 the Divine service, with hunger, thirst, 
 cold, and want.” — Pilkington. Near 
 this he built an oratory, afterwards 
 enlarged into a religious house by 
 Serlo de Grendon, Lord of Badely. 
 This establishment was filled with 
 monks from the Abbey of Calke 
 (Rte. 2), who, however, in course of 
 time, preferred the pleasures of the 
 forest to their religious duties ; and a 
 complaint having been made to the 
 King, the liberties of the monks were 
 curtailed, and a grant of land made 
 to them for the purpose of support. 
 They, however, fell into great poverty, 
 and were succeeded by a colony of 
 canons from Welbeck, who soon re- 
 turned, disgusted with the penury of 
 the living. The abbey was refounded 
 at a later date by Fitzrauf ; but very 
 little of the building is left except 
 the E. window. The ch. near the 
 ruins is curious and quaint, being 
 incorporated with the ancient pil- 
 grims’ inn, from which it was once 
 separated only by a door. The sing- 
 ing gallery is entered by steps from 
 the outside of the ch. The font has 
 a sculpture of the Virgin and Child, 
 and Crucifixion. A portion of the 
 stained glass for which Dale was 
 once celebrated is now at Morley ch. 
 (Rte. 4), some 3J m. to the W. The 
 hermit’s cell is still in existence. The 
 story of Dale Abbey has been told by 
 William and Mary Howitt : — 
 
 “ The De’il one night, as he chanced to sail, 
 
 In a stormy wind, by the Abbey of Dale, 
 
 Suddenly stopp'd, and looked wild with 
 surprise, 
 
 That a structure so fair in that valley 
 should rise.” 
 
 From Dale the tourist may return 
 by Ockbrook , where there is a Mora- 
 vian educational settlement. The 
 parish ch., which has Norm, portions, 
 
 Abbey . — Elvaston. 61 
 
 has a spire and some good stained, 
 glass in the E. window.] 
 
 4J m. Borrowash (Stat.) in the 
 parish of Ockbrook. 
 
 1 m. S., across the Derwent, is 
 Elvaston Castle , the seat of the Earl 
 of Harrington. A monotonous flat 
 has been so treated as to produce a 
 grand effect independent of variety 
 of surface, which has been done by 
 bringing together a forest of ever- 
 greens of every kind, disposed in: 
 avenues and groves. The grounds, 
 100 acres in extent, which on the 
 E. side are entered by very fine 
 iron gates, formerly belonging ] to 
 the palace of Madrid, are remark- 
 able for their evergreen glades and 
 gardens, chiefly composed of coni- 
 ferse, and for the artificial lake and 
 rockeries, carried out for the 5th 
 Earl of Harrington (1851-1862)^. 
 by an eminent gardener and trans- 
 planter of trees, Mr. Barron, whose 
 nursery is near the stat. The man- 
 sion is Strawberry Hill Gothic. The 
 drawing-room is furnished with 
 splendid crimson hangings, pre- 
 sented by the King of Spain to a 
 former Earl. There is also a small 
 collection of pictures by Kneller, 
 Lely, C. Jansen, Reynolds, N. Ber- 
 ghem, &c. The avenues by which 
 the castle is approached from the S. 
 and E. are all the more conspicuous,, 
 as the immediate neighbourhood is 
 flat and uninviting. The gardens 
 are laid out in various styles, the 
 most remarkable being the yew- 
 garden : many of the trees were 
 transported full-grown from long dis- 
 tances. Mr. Barron’s chief exploit 
 is an artificial lake with rocky 
 islands and shores, fringed with 
 beautiful shrubs and trees. 
 
 At Elvaston was born Walter 
 Blunt, created by Edward IV., in 
 1465, Baron of Montjoy, “whose pos- 
 terity have equalled the glory of 
 their descent and family by the orna- 
 ments of learning.” In the ch. y 
 which is Perp., with lofy tower, are 
 
62 
 
 Route 10 . — Derby to Nottingham. 
 
 a carved oak screen, and monuments 
 of the 15th centy. to the Stanhopes, 
 also modem ones and painted 
 windows to the Earls of Harrington. 
 4 ‘ In 1643 Sir John Gell with the 
 Parliamentary forces attacked and 
 lundered Elvaston. Lady Stan- 
 opo had recently erected, at on 
 expense of 600/., a rich altar-tomb 
 to her husband, but such was the 
 personal and political hatred of the 
 Roundhead knight against his late 
 stout opponent, that he proceeded 
 to the eh., mutilated the effigy, and 
 then wantonly destroyed Lady Stan- 
 hope’s favourite flower-garden. Nor 
 did his revengo stop here — for he 
 married the lady, with the express 
 purpose of ‘ destroying the glory of 
 her husband and his house.’” — 
 Burke. 
 
 2 m. to the S.E. of Elvaston, where 
 the Derby anti Loughborough road 
 crosses the Trent at Cavendish 
 Bridge, is Shardloio Hall (J. Sut- 
 ton, Esq.), a 16th-centy. house, 
 modernized. 
 
 On N., 1 and 2 m., arc Draycott 
 Hall (J. H. Towle, Esq.), and Hop- 
 well Hall (T. Pares, Esq.). 
 
 6£ m. Draycott (Stat.) Here arc 
 the great cotton and lace factories of 
 the Messrs. Towle. 
 
 7J m. Saicley (Stat.). The village 
 is more than 1 m. to the S.E., on 
 tike bank of tin- Trent. The Perp. 
 ch. has a good tower and spire, and 
 an oak screen ; also brakes for the 
 Bothe family, 1467, 1478. Much 
 nearer to the stat. is the villago of 
 Breaston, where the great industry 
 is warp net-making. 
 
 9J m. Trent Junction Stat., 
 where this branch joins the Midland 
 main line (Rte. 2). In sight from 
 the stat is Trent College. Rev. T. 
 F. Fenn\ a well-known educational 
 establishment. The views of the 
 Trent ns the line passes towards 
 Nottingham, are very pleasant. The 
 river here divide s Derby from Notts, 
 and is joined by the Soar, which 
 
 separates Notts and Leicester. 
 Thrumpton Hall, on S., is the scat 
 of Lady Byron. From this point the 
 line takes the vale of the Trent on 
 its 1. bank as far as Newark, thence 
 on its rt. bank to Langford, and 
 afterwards nearly follows the course 
 of the old Foase Way to Lincoln. 
 
 At 10 m. the Ere wash is crossed, 
 near its junction with the Trent. 
 
 11 J m. Attenborough (Stat.). On 
 S. is the church, with tower and 
 spire. It contains several fine monu- 
 ments to the Babingtons, Nevilles, 
 and Leakes. In a house on one side 
 the churchyard was born in 1611 
 Henry Ireton, the Tegicide, and son- 
 in-law of Cromwell. N. of the lino 
 is Chilicell, where is a Baptist col- 
 lege, and Charlton Hall (T. B. Charl- 
 ton, Esq.). 
 
 At a short distance W. is a 
 ferry, which leads to Barton in 
 Fabis , or Barton in the Beans, where 
 a tesselated pavement can be seen 
 in the vicarage farmyard, while some 
 remains of fortification on Brent's 
 Hill point to the former site of a 
 Roman town. 
 
 2 m. S.E. of Barton is the village 
 of Gotham , pleasantly situated in a 
 valley, and with a handsome church, 
 but better known for its “Wise 
 Men,” the story of which is thus told 
 by Thoroton, the county historian ; 
 as in similar tales about other places, 
 the simplicity was only affected. 
 “ King John, passing through the 
 place towards Nottingham, and in- 
 tending to go through the meadows, 
 was prevented by the villagers, who 
 apprehended that the ground over 
 which a King had passed would for 
 ever become a public road. The 
 King, incensed at their proceedings, 
 sent some of his servants to inquire 
 of them the reason of their incivility, 
 that he might punish them by way 
 of fine or any other way h<» thought 
 proper. The villagers, hearing of the 
 approach of the King's servants, 
 thought of an expedient to turn away 
 his Majesty’s displeasure. When the 
 
63 
 
 Route 10 . — Beeston. — Nottingham.' 
 
 messengers arrived, they found some 
 of the inhabitants engaged in endea- 
 vouring to drown an eel ; some were 
 employed in dragging carts on to 
 the top of a barn to shade the wood 
 from the sun ; others were tumbling 
 their cheeses down the hill to find 
 their way to Nottingham ; and some 
 were engaged in hedging in a cuckoo 
 which had perched upon a bush : in 
 short, they were all employed in some 
 foolish way or other, whence arose 
 the old adage, ‘The wise men (or 
 fools) of Gotham/” According to 
 local tradition, their great exploit 
 was the planting the hedge to keep 
 in the cuckoo, and a neighbouring 
 hamlet, supposed to have been the 
 scene, is still called Cuckoo Bush. 
 
 13 m. Beeston (Stat.). The vil- 
 lage, a short distance N., is a busy 
 place, having a silk mill (its prede- 
 cessor was burnt by the rioters from 
 Nottingham in 1831), lace machines, 
 and stocking frames. The ch. was 
 rebuilt in 1844, except the chancel. 
 Nearer Nottingham is High field 
 House , the residence of Mr. Lowe the 
 astronomer, from whence the meteoro- 
 logical data are published; his Ob- 
 servatory is very near the line. On 
 the opposite side of the Trent, 4 m. 
 from Nottingham, lie Clifton Hall 
 and Grove, the ancient residence of 
 the Cliftons, celebrated in one of the 
 poems of Henry Kirke White. The 
 church contains some 15th and 16th 
 centy. monuments and brasses of the 
 Cliftons, a distinguished Nottingham- 
 shire family. 
 
 There is a fine avenue of trees 
 extending from Wilford (1| m. N.E.) 
 to Clifton Grove, which is the scene 
 of Kirke White’s poem of that 
 name. At Wilford was formerly a 
 ferry to Nottingham, now replaced 
 by a bridge, which, mainly owing 
 its completion after long delay to the 
 liberality of the late Sir R. J. Clifton, 
 M.P., is commonly known as “Sir 
 Robert’s Bridge/’ 1| m. S.E. from 
 Clifton is Buddington , a busy village 
 of stocking-weavers, or “ stockingers,” 
 
 as they are locally termed. At a 
 short distance E. is a deserted church- 
 yard, the only vestige of a town called 
 Flawforth, that once stood there. 
 The ch. having fallen into decay 
 was pulled down in 1773, and part 
 of the stone was used to build a 
 bridge over the neighbouring stream, 
 called Fairbrook. 
 
 Buddington Grange (J. Paget, 
 Esq.). 
 
 The rly. is carried along the base 
 of the steep rock on which stands 
 the remains of the Castle, and reaches 
 at 
 
 15f m. Nottingham ( Hotels : Wel- 
 lington, Victoria, opposite the Stat. ; 
 George, Maypole, in the town), the 
 chief place for the manufacture of 
 lace and hosiery in England. It is 
 an important town, containing, with 
 its extensive suburbs, about 150,000 
 Inhab., nearly in the centre of 
 England, seated on a rocky height 
 a little to the N. of 
 
 “The bounteous Trent, that in herself en- 
 seams 
 
 Both thirty sorts of fish and thirty sundry 
 streams,” 
 
 and overlooking its rich valley. 
 
 The old part of the town is a 
 mass of mean streets, mostly crooked 
 and narrow; and from its sloping 
 site many of the houses rise tier 
 upon tier one behind the other ; this 
 slope faces the S., Nottingham being 
 sheltered from the N. by a range of 
 high ground separating it from the 
 district of Sherwood Forest, which 
 in old times “ supplied it witli great 
 store of wood for fire (though many 
 burn pit-coal, the smell whereof is 
 offensive), while, on the other side, 
 the Trent serves it with fish very 
 plentifully. Hence this its barbarous 
 verse : — 
 
 “ Limpida sylva focum, Triginta dat mihi 
 piscem.” — Camden, 
 
 The lower portion is watered by 
 the Lene, a stream from Sherwood 
 Forest, which runs from the N., and 
 
64 
 
 Route 10 . — Derby to Nottingham. 
 
 soon joins the Trent. But of late 
 years, since the restriction of building 
 on the Lammas lands has been re- 
 moved, the town has greatly extended, 
 and with very great improvement in 
 the style of building. Several of the 
 old streets have also been widened 
 or swept away, and the new houses 
 in the Market-place, the Post Office, 
 the School of Art, and several of the 
 more recent factories, are favourable 
 specimens of provincial architecture. 
 
 Perhaps the most characteristic 
 feature of Nottingham is its Market- 
 place , considered to be the largest in 
 the kingdom. It is an open area of 5 J 
 acres, nearly in the form of an acute- 
 angled triangle, terminated at the E. 
 end or base by the Exchange, a mas- 
 sive building, of slight architectural 
 pretensions. There is a North and a 
 Soutli Parade, consisting mainly of 
 handsome houses of early 18th-eenty. 
 date, the upper stories resting on 
 pillars forming a covered walk. This 
 is the 8 pot that the “Nottingham 
 Lambs ” have rendered notorious in 
 electioneering annals ; and even now 
 on market-days, and at the October 
 goose-fair (“ the English carnival,” it 
 has been styled) the scene is suffici- 
 ently lively. It was by a “ Goose-fair 
 mob” that Nottingham castle was 
 burnt in 1831. Indeed in former times 
 the working classes here were noted 
 for their turbulent spirit, as shown in 
 their sympathy with the first French 
 revolution, and their share in the 
 Luddite outrages of 1811-12. 
 
 Nottingham was seized by the 
 Northmen in 8G8, and held by them 
 till 324, when they were dispossessed 
 by Edward the Elder, who also built 
 a bridge over the Trent that con- 
 tinued in use till late in the 17th 
 centy. William the Norman built 
 the castle, and bestowed it on 
 William Peveril. This edifice occu- 
 pied a most commanding position on 
 a precipitous rock, 130 ft. nigh, over- 
 looking the town, and having the 
 river Lene flowing at its foot. It 
 was assailed in vain in the wars in 
 
 the time of Stephen and of King 
 John, so as to gain the name of im- 
 pregnable, and it was a frequent 
 royal residence: as also a prison, 
 David II. of Scotland, Owen, the 
 son of Owen Glyndwr, young Ho- 
 tham, and many others being men- 
 tioned as confined there. It was held 
 for some years for the Parliament by 
 Colonel Hutchinson, and at his in- 
 stance in 1G51 it was “slighted,” or 
 reduced to ruin, lest, as Mrs. Hutch- 
 inson informs us, it might be seized 
 by Cromwell, whose designs of abso- 
 lute power he had penetrated. After 
 the Restoration the site was granted to 
 the Duke of Buckingham, who soon 
 sold it to the old Royalist general, 
 the first Duke of Newcastle. He r 
 though almost 80 years of age, pro- 
 ceeded to build a new castle, which is 
 said to have been designed by Sir 
 Christopher Wren, and is of a heavy 
 Italian style of architecture. Now it is 
 a mere roofless shell and ruin, gutted 
 and blackened by fire, its massive 
 walls cracked and fissured, having 
 been burnt down by the mob during 
 the riots in October, 1831, because 
 its owner, the Duke of Newcastle, 
 had distinguished himself by his op- 
 position to the Reform Bill. The 
 sum of 21,000/. was paid hy the 
 hundred to the Duke as compensa- 
 tion, but, from threats of further mis- 
 chief, he declined to rebuild it. The 
 remains of the old castle are very 
 small ; a Norm, gatehouse, to which 
 some injudicious modern additions 
 have been made, and a bastion 
 facing Castle Gate. The grounds are 
 now occupied by the volunteer corps, 
 but for a small fee admission can be 
 obtained ; they will be found worth 
 a visit on account of the beautiful 
 view which the terrace commands 
 over the plain of Trent, the town, 
 the canal, and rlys. close at hand, 
 the river appearing here and there 
 in its windings, the groves of Clifton 
 beyond it, and in the distance the 
 Hall of Wollaton and Castle of 
 Bclvoir. 
 
65 
 
 Route 10 . 1 — Nottingham : Standard Hill. 
 
 Mortimer's Role is a singular exca- 
 vation, descending through the sand- 
 stone rock from the castle platform 
 nearly to the level of the river, lighted 
 by openings in the face of the cliff, 
 and showing the marks of gates and ! 
 stockades to bar the passage through 
 it. It is of considerable antiquity, at 
 least as old as the 14th centy. ; and 
 through a secret branch of it, now 
 closed up, which led to the keep, 
 a party of trusty men, headed by 
 Sir William Elland, entering the 
 castle by night by order of the young 
 King Edward III., surprised Mor- 
 timer Earl of March, the paramour 
 of the Queen his mother, in 1330. 
 Mortimer was seized in spite of the 
 Queen’s cries and entreaties, sent to 
 London, and executed , 11 for betraying 
 his country to the Scots for money, 
 and for other mischiefs, out of an 
 extravagant and vast imagination de- 
 signed by him/’ 
 
 Nottingham Castle, standing near 
 the centre of the kingdom, was for 
 many ages one of the most important 
 fortresses in England, and was the 
 scene of many momentous historical 
 events. The platform on which it 
 stands is undermined with excava- 
 tions extending in all directions, and 
 it is probable that Mortimer’s Hole, 
 which is 107 yards in length, afforded 
 a direct communication from the castle 
 with the corn-mill and brewhouse on 
 the river below. 
 
 On the slope of the hill above the 
 castle, between it and the old In- 
 firmary, on the spot where is now 
 the street called Standard Rill , 
 King Charles I. first unfurled the 
 royal standard 1642, having pre- 
 viously summoned all good subjects 
 able to bear arms to attend. This 
 important event is thus described by 
 Clarendon —“According to proclama- 
 tion, upon the 25th day of August, 
 the standard was erected about 6 of 
 the clock of a very stormy and tem- 
 pestuous day. The King himself, 
 with a small train, rode to the top of 
 the Castle Hill ; Varney, the Knight 
 
 Marshal, who was standard-bearer,, 
 carrying the standard, which was- 
 then erected on that place, with little 
 other ceremony than the sound of 
 trumpets and drums. Melancholy 
 men observed many ill presages about- 
 that time. The standard was blown 
 down the same night that it had been 
 set up, by a very strong and unruly 
 wind, and could not be fixed again in 
 a day or two, till the tempest was- 
 allayed.” 
 
 Though the Castle was in the* 
 king’s hands at the beginning of the* 
 war, it had no sufficient garrison, 
 and was soon occupied by the Par- 
 liament, when Colonel Hutchinson 
 (whose wife’s ‘ Memoirs ’ add so much 
 interest to the story) was appointed 
 its governor. He held the plac& 
 bravely and successfully against all 
 attacks, with standing at the same time 
 offers of bribery, from 1642 to 1645. 
 Marshal Tallard and other French 
 officers, taken prisoners at the battle 
 of Blenheim, resided on parole in the 
 Castle and some adjoining houses in 
 Castle Gate, where they amused' 
 themselves with gardening. 
 
 The New Ked sandstone rock on 
 which the town and castle stand* 
 stretching W. in the form of a low 
 cliff along the canal through the park*, 
 is of a soft texture, easily cut, and has 
 in consequence been perforated in 
 very early times with caves, used as 
 cellars and storehouses, while some 
 till very lately served for human 
 habitations. Such caves were pro- 
 bably the most ancient dwellings on 
 this spot, and gave rise to the town. 
 “The name of Nottingham is no- 
 thing but a soft contraction of the 
 Saxon word Snottengaham, so called 
 by the Saxons from the caves and 
 passages under ground, which the 
 ancients for their retreat and habi- 
 tation mined under the steep rocks 
 of the south parts, toward the river 
 Lind [Lene], whence it is that asser- 
 tion renders the Saxon word Snot- 
 teng-ham, speluncarum domum, and 
 in the British language it is s tui ogo- 
 
66 
 
 Route 10 . — Derby to Nottingham. 
 
 banc,' which signifies the same thing,’ 
 viz. 4 The House of Dens.' ” — Deering. 
 
 The Rock Holes, vulgarly called 
 Papist Holes*, in the i»ark to the W. 
 of the castle, atv a series of such cavi- 
 ties, undoubtedly once used as dwell- 
 ings. Then* are traces of stairs, of a 
 cliapcl, of luortise-holes for timbers, 
 designed to form what is called a 
 44 lean-to roof,*’ and one chamber is 
 penetrated with small pigeon* holes, 
 in order to serve as a dovecot. The 
 Park, in which the Rock Holes are 
 situated, was originally attached to 
 the castle ; it is now a public recrea- 
 tion-ground, and is nearly surrounded 
 by buildings, among which are the 
 Barracks, and many neat villas. 
 Along the side a lino terrace has 
 sprung up. 
 
 Sneinton Hermitage , in the suburb 
 of that name at the opposite side of 
 Nottingham, is a low rlitl of sandstone 
 facing the Trent, pierced and exca- 
 vated to form chain bers for the houses 
 built against tire side of the rock. Some 
 of them are very old, and many have 
 neat hanging gardens on the shelves 
 of the rock. Hero are tea-gardens, 
 much resorted to by the operatives in 
 the summer time. 
 
 Within the last twenty years 
 several busy suburbs to Nottingham 
 have been erected, almost uniting tlie 
 town to the neighbouring villages 
 of Basford, Had lord. Leu ton, and 
 Hneinton. The lemmas Lunds for- 
 merly preserved au open >*paco in 
 every direction, ami thus caused these 
 manufacturing villages to be placed 
 at a distance of 1 or 2 m. ; but in 
 1845 au Act was passed, which 
 allowed of building lease’s of the 
 I<ammas Lands, and now streets and 
 factories almost cover them. As 
 some counterpoise, various |x>rtions 
 ore being laid out as 44 recreation 
 grounds. The Arboretum, on the 
 N. side of the town, a tract of 111 
 acres, is one of these, in which is ] 
 a jagoda, with its complement of i 
 
 ' Russian gun9, and statue of Feargus 
 O’Connor. The so-called Forest is 
 another; it is merely a serpentine 
 road with shrubberies, near the race- 
 course. On the H. side is the Queen’s 
 Walk, a planted avenue, jj m. long, 
 leading to Wil fold -bridge. The 
 
 various Cemeteries also arc ornamen- 
 tally laid out, and in the Church 
 Cemetery, on the Mansfield road, 
 some of tho cave-dwellings of old 
 Nottingham are trill to lx; seen, 
 enlarged to serve as catacombs. 
 Much has sjsn been done to provide 
 for the intellectual progress of tho 
 working classes. There is a Me- 
 chanics’ Hall in tho Mansfield road, 
 a School of Art and Museum near 
 tho Arboretum, a Free Library in 
 Thurland- street, and tho Peoples 
 College near the Derby road. 
 
 Nottingham possesses one very 
 handsome cruciform Pcrp. Church , tit. 
 Mary's , on the High Pavement, nearly 
 in the centre of the town. The W. end, 
 which had been 44 modernized,” was 
 well restored by Scott ; the S. porch, 
 originally very rich, has lost its 
 beauty from the corrosion of tho 
 stone by tho weather. From the 
 centre of the ch. rises a fine tower 
 of 2 stages, witli a battlement and 8 
 crocketed pinnacles. The interior is 
 lighted by a profusion of w indows, 
 and there am 3 tine ones at tho K. 
 end and at each tiausept. The E. 
 window, of stained glass by Hard- 
 man , is a memorial of the Princo 
 Consort ; that of the S. transept is ulso 
 stained, in memory of Tho®. Smith of 
 Gaddcsby, d. 1GW; the one in the N. 
 transept (partially tilled) is in me- 
 mory of the lb v. J. W. Brooks (by 
 Clayton and Hell . and the whole 
 of tho remainder ure in course of 
 l>eii)g filled with Scriptural subjects. 
 At the extremity of the transepts 
 under the win- lows are 2 monu- 
 mental niches, beautifully ornamented 
 with Pcrp. crockets and foliage; 
 the one in the S. has an efiigy of 
 a warrior, but iu tho N. tho niche 
 | holds an ultur-tomb, the figure be- 
 
67 
 
 Boute 10 . — -Nottingham : Walter Memorial . 
 
 longing to which is in one of 
 the aisles. The open timber roof 
 is of good ornamental design; and 
 there is a fine piece of groining 
 at the intersection of nave and 
 transepts. The chancel has been 
 beautifully restored, and is orna- 
 mented by a very fine painting of the 
 Virgin and Child by Fra Bartolomeo, 
 well worthy of examination; it was 
 the gift of Mr. Wright, of Upton, and 
 cost 960 guineas. Notice the tiles 
 (by Minton), and the Derbyshire 
 encrinital marble steps. The screen 
 that formerly cut ofi* the chancel 
 has been removed, together with 
 the unsightly pews and galleries, 
 and the whole of the splendid area 
 is now thrown open. In a glass 
 case of the N. wall off the chancel 
 is a curious group of alabaster 
 figures, found under the chancel in 
 the course of the restoration. The 
 Rev. John Whitelock, ejected by 
 the Act of Uniformity, has his 
 gravestone here (d. 17 08). 
 
 St. Peter’s Church , near the Market 
 Place, is Perp., with tower and lofty 
 spire, but has been very much altered 
 and modernized. It has a good altar- 
 piece by Barber, a native artist; 
 subject — the Agony in the Garden. 
 
 St. Nicholas Church , in Castle 
 Gate, is a very plain brick struc- 
 ture, built in 1678 in lieu of one 
 pulled down by Colonel Hutchinson 
 in 1643, as it commanded the plat- 
 form of the Castle, “ so that the men 
 could not play the ordnance without 
 woolpacks before them ; and the 
 bullets fell so thick into the outward 
 castle-yard that they could not pass 
 from one gate to the other, nor relieve 
 the guards, but with very great 
 hazard.” — Mem. Col. Hutchinson , p. 
 177. There are 8 or 9 modern 
 churches in Nottingham, and a large 
 number of Dissenting chapels (a new 
 one in Castle Gate is a showy Lom- 
 bardo-Gothic structure), but none 
 calling for particular remark. 
 
 The handsome Homan Catholic 
 Cathedral by Pugin, dedicated to 
 
 St. Barnabas, is on the Derby road; 
 it is cruciform, in the E. Eng. 
 style, surmounted by a tower and 
 spire 164 ft. high, and terminates at 
 the E. end in a Lady Chapel. It con- 
 tains a carved stone pulpit, and a 
 chancel-screen of open work, sur- 
 mounted by a rood, flanked by figures 
 of St. John and the Virgin. The 
 altar is a single slab, resting on 6 
 pillars of Petworth marble. Behind 
 it is the Lady Chapel, on the N. side 
 SU Alkmund's, and on the S. the 
 chapels of St. Thomas of Canterbury 
 and the Venerable Bede. In the crypt 
 is St. Peter’s Chapel, set apart for 
 masses for the dead. The windows 
 are filled with stained glass ; the 
 centre one, at the W. end, bears the 
 arms of John Earl of Shrewsbury, 
 who contributed liberally towards the 
 building. 
 
 A Nunnery, occupied by 6 Sisters 
 of Charity, was established in 1844, 
 in Upper Parliament-street. 
 
 The General Hospital is near the 
 castle ; it was built in 1781, the site 
 being the joint contribution of the 
 then Duke of Newcastle and the 
 corporation of the town. There are 
 several other hospitals, and some 
 almshouses, one of these latter, the 
 Plumtre Hospital, being of the date 
 of 1392. The Lunatic Asylum stands 
 N. of the town, on a hill command- 
 ing extensive views. The Peoples 
 College , a Tudor edifice built 1847, 
 is near the Derby road. The Post 
 Office, a handsome building, is in 
 Victoria -street, near the Market- 
 place. There are two rly. stats. ; 
 that of the Midland Company is in 
 Westcroft, that of the Great Northern 
 in Eastcroft, on the London road. 
 
 At the junction of Carrington- 
 street and Castle Gate is the Walter 
 Memorial , of the Eleanor-cross order, 
 50 ft. high. It is a drinking-fountai n, 
 with 2 medallion portraits of Mr. 
 Walter, of Bearwood, long M.P. for 
 Nottingham, and was erected in 
 
68 
 
 Route 10 . — Derby to Nottingham . 
 
 1865 by his son ns a present to the 
 
 town. 
 
 The low-lying parts of Notting- 
 ham have often sniftered from floods, 
 particularly in 1795, to which the 
 obstruction ottered to the free course 
 of the river by the old Trent bridge 
 greatly contributed. It was a struc- 
 ture of 19 small arches, with a raised 
 causeway and an embankment, and 
 though usually said to have been 
 built in 1683, contained the remains 
 of some far older structure. In 1871 
 it was replaced by the New Trent 
 Bridge, which is mainly of iron, 
 having 3 arches over the river of 
 100 ft. each, beside land arches for 
 towing-path, floods, &c. It is a very 
 handsome structure, ornamented 
 with polished granite pillars, and, 
 with the approaches, is about 700 ft. 
 in length. 
 
 The manufactures of Nottingham, 
 which are greatly promoted by the 
 existence of coal at a distance of less 
 than 2 m., consist of hosiery, silk, 
 cotton, woollen, and lace. The Rev. 
 William Lee, the inventor of the 
 stocking-frame (1589), to which Not- 
 tingham owes so much of its wealth, 
 was a native of Woodborough, in this 
 county. What led him to take up 
 the matter is not certainly known, 
 authorities differing, but it appears 
 that he thought so highly of his 
 invention as to apply to Queen 
 Elizabeth for a patent for a monopoly 
 of making stockings. Such a re- 
 quest being justly considered unrea- 
 sonable, Lee carried his process to 
 France, where, after alternate suc- 
 cesses and failures, he died, about 
 1610. In the town and its vicinity 
 there are many manufactories of 
 hosiery, machine lace, bobbins and 
 their carriages, machinery, and 
 warehouses for lace-dressing. The 
 stronger at Nottingham should not 
 neglect to eoc the process of mnking 
 bobbin-net, “which may be said to 
 surpass most other branches of me- 
 chanical ingenuity in the complexity 
 of its machinery; one of Fisher's spot- 
 
 ting-fmmos being as much beyond 
 the most curious chronometer in mul- 
 tiplicity of device, as that is beyond 
 a common roasting-jack.” — Dr. Ure. 
 A bobbin-net machine consists of per- 
 haps 10,000 pieces, bobbins and car- 
 riages. These machines have almost 
 entirely superseded hand-made lace. 
 
 The Jacounrd machine was applied 
 to the bobbin-net machine in 1825, 
 but, as far as producing patterns, 
 “progressed slowly till 1841, when a 
 plan was discovered by Mr. Hooton 
 Deveril for applying the Jacquard to 
 the guide-bars ; and so rapid has been 
 the adoption of this method since that 
 time, that at the present period thero 
 is scarcely a fancy machine at work 
 without it, either to the bars or along 
 the machine.” The process of “ gass- 
 ing lace” when made, in order to 
 bum away the loose fibres, is also 
 well worth seeing, the lace being 
 passed over a series of gas flames, so 
 as to singe aw’ay the filaments without 
 injuring the net. Many thousand 
 oung girls receive employment (often 
 adly paid) as lace “ menders ** and 
 dressers, in starching and folding the 
 lace. (See Introd., p. xxix.) 
 
 The first cotton mill was erected 
 at Nottingham, by J ames Hargreaves. 
 The building is now a dwelling- 
 house, at the junction of Mill-street 
 and Wollaton-street. 
 
 Nottingham was once famous for 
 the skill of its workers in iron, who 
 resided in Ginller Gate (now Pelham- 
 street) and Rridlesmith Gate ; hence 
 the jingling lines — 
 
 M The little smith of Nottingham, 
 
 Who doth the work that no man can." 
 
 In Rridlesmith *s Gate are some 
 old houses, one of them called King 
 John’s Palace. Another so-called 
 palace of his existed in Bottle-lane, 
 nut was destroyed when the new 
 Post Otlice was built. A handsome 
 caned oak doorwav (15th ccnty.> 
 removed from this building is pre- 
 served in the Museum. 
 
69 
 
 Route 10 . — Nottingham : Wollaton Hall. 
 
 Among eminent natives of Not- 
 tingham may be named Col. Hutch- 
 inson, Dr. Jebb the physician, Sand- 
 by the engraver, Dr. Kippis, Gilbert 
 Wakefield, and Henry Kirke White. 
 The house in the Shambles in which 
 the latter was born has his portrait 
 on its front, and his name has been 
 given to a street in the Meadows, 
 between the rly. and the river. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Notting- 
 ham are several fine seats, as Map- 
 .perley Hall (C. A. Wright, Esq.), 
 Holme Pierrepont (Earl Manners), 
 Oolwick Hall (J. C. Musters, Esq.) ; 
 but by far the finest is Wollaton 
 Hall (Lord Middleton; occupied by 
 H. Ackroyd, Esq.), 2J m. W., on 
 the Derby road. This noble and 
 most picturesque mansion is in the 
 style of the Eevival, and “a combi- 
 nation of regular columns, with orna- 
 ;ments neither Grecian nor Gothic, 
 and half-embroidered with foliage, 
 crammed over frontispieces, facades, 
 and chimneys,” but nevertheless 
 /highly picturesque. It is doubtful 
 whether the architect was John of 
 Padua, or our own Thorpe (the archi- 
 tect of Burghley), assisted by Smith- 
 son. The building is simple in its 
 plan; a square, surmounted by a 
 massive centre, having bartizans 
 flanked at the corners by turrets, sur- 
 mounted by elegant balustrades. It 
 occupies the summit of an eminence 
 in the midst of a noble park, abound- 
 ing in aged timber, crossed by 4 
 stately avenues, and well stocked with 
 deer ; and the grouping of the towers 
 and turrets of the hall, varying in 
 perspective as you approach, is in the 
 highest degree picturesque. Other pe- 
 culiarities of the exterior consist in the 
 great extent of windows, the elegant 
 scroll-work, and the grand porch. 
 
 It was built 1580-88, by Sir 
 Francis Willoughby, Kt. (according 
 to Camden, “ out of ostentation to 
 show his riches ”) of stone from An- 
 caster, conveyed hither on horses’ 
 backs, in exchange for coals dug on 
 the estate. The grand feature of 
 
 the interior is the Hall, 60 ft. long 
 and 60 ft. high, surmounted by a 
 roof supported by open timber frames, 
 elegantly carved, arranged in com- 
 partments. At one end is a richly 
 carved screen, unfortunately dis- 
 figured by paint; the walls also 
 have lost their panelling ; yet the 
 effect of the whole, with its pictures, 
 stags’ horns, &c., is truly baronial. 
 In other parts of the house are a 
 few good Dutch paintings ; — Grace 
 before Meat, by Heemskirk ; a 
 Flemish lady bargaining for pro- 
 visions, figures life-size ; Lions hunt- 
 ing Deer, said to be Rubens , perhaps 
 by Snyders. There are some inte- 
 resting family portraits of the Wil- 
 loughbys : Sir F. Willoughby, who 
 built the house, and his Lady, by 
 Zucchero ; Sir Richard, Lord Chief 
 Justice, and Sir Hugh, the navi- 
 gator, who was frozen to death 
 in the polar seas, 1553, whole- 
 lengths, and curious from the cos- 
 tumes ; also Francis, 2nd Lord 
 Middleton, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. 
 The view from the central tower is 
 extensive and beautiful, reaching to 
 Belvoir Castle. The exterior of 
 Wollaton and the Hall are very fine 
 of their kind, and well worthy the 
 attention of the architect. The house 
 is not shown, but its grand exterior 
 is well seen from the road. It nar- 
 rowly escaped the fate of Notting- 
 ham Castle in 1831, the rioters being 
 beaten off with difficulty by the 
 Wollaton troop of yeomanry. 
 
 In Wollaton Church are monuments 
 with effigies to Sir Richard Wil- 
 loughby and his wife, 1471 ; and Sir 
 Henry Willoughby, Knight Banneret, 
 1528. 
 
 For Colwick Hall see Rte. 11 
 and for Holme Pierrepont, Rte. 12. 
 
 Railways.— Midland, to Derby, 
 15 J m. ; Mansfield, 14 m. ; Sheffield, 
 80 m. ; Newark, 17J m. ; Lincoln, 
 33J m. ; Leicester, 27§ m. ; Birming- 
 ham, 58| m. ; Peterborough, 52 m. 
 Great Northern, to Grantham, 23 
 m. ; Boston, 55 m. 
 
70 
 
 Route 11 . — Nottingham to Lincoln . 
 
 ROUTE 11. 
 
 NOTTINGHAM TO LINCOLN? BY 
 NEWARK. 
 
 MIDLAND RAILWAY. 33J 111. 
 
 As fur ns Newark the lino keeps 
 on the 1. hank of the river, command- 
 ing in many parts very beautiful 
 views. Soon after quitting Notting- 
 ham the rly. passes through the de- 
 mesne of Col wick Hall , the property 
 of J. C. Musters, Esq., whose ancestor 
 obtained it from one of the Byrons 
 early in the 17th centy., either by pur- 
 chase or at the card-table. The house, 
 by Carr of York, built 1776, occupies 
 a wry pleasing site near the Trent, 
 backed by rocky cliffs and hanging 
 woods. The pleasure-grounds, which 
 have been finely laid out, are now 
 quite neglected. Col wick Hall was 
 attacked, pillaged, and fired, by the 
 brutal Nottingham mob ofl 831. The 
 terror produced by this violence, com- 
 mitted at night, drove the lady of the 
 mansion into a plantation for con- 
 cealment, and is supposed to have 
 caua«l her death soon after. Such 
 was the mclaneholy end of the beau- 
 tiful “ Mary Chaworth ” of Byron’s 
 early poems, the ill-fated heiress of 
 Annesiey. The little ch., which 
 stands on the lawn, contains monu- 
 ments to some of the Byron family ; 
 also to Sophia Musters, died 1819. 
 
 3} m. Carlton and Gedling (Stat.). 
 Here the Great Northern Notting- 
 ham nnd Grantham line (Rte. 12) 
 runs off on rt. Cnrlton is a hosiery j 
 village, a township of Gedling, j m. N. | 
 
 Gedling ch.,'Perp., lias a very fino 
 lofty spire. Gedling Lodge is a shoot- 
 ing box of the Earl of Chesterfield, 
 and Gedling Jlouse (W. Burnside, 
 Esq.) has very beautiful grounds. 
 
 5£ m. Burton Joyce (Stat.), pro- 
 perly Burton Jorz, from the family 
 of Do Georz, close to the margin of 
 the Trent, which in its course hither 
 from Nottingham is characterized by 
 a succession of weirs and osier-beds. 
 The ch. has monuments of the Stapyl- 
 ton family, who held projierty here in 
 the reign of Edward VI. 
 
 1 m. E. across the river is Shelf ord, 
 with a ch. in which are several 
 monuments of the Stanhopes worth 
 notice. 
 
 2 m. farther in the same direction 
 is the ch. and village of Bridgeford , 
 occupying a commanding position on 
 the New Red sandstone cliffs, that ac- 
 company the Trent the greater part 
 of the way to Newark. 
 
 7} m. Lowdham (Stat.). The re- 
 stored ch. has some 14th-eenty. monu- 
 ments of the Lowdham family. 1 m. 
 N.E. is Gonahton , with a small E.E. 
 ch., of which the nave and tower have 
 been rebuilt. 2 m. W. \»Woodl>orough t 
 which disputes with the neighbouring 
 village of Calvcrton the honour of 
 being the birthplace of Lee, the in- 
 ventor of the stocking-frame. The 
 ch., which has a good tower, is dedi- 
 cated to St. Wilfrid. About 1 m. E. 
 of Lowdham the Dovcrbcck, a stream 
 that rises in Sherwood Forest, falls 
 into the Trent. At Oxton , 4 m. up 
 the stream, are 3 remarkable tumuli. 
 
 10 m. ' Tliurgarton (Stat.). The 
 Vriory (R. Mill ward, Eso.), on the 
 N., is built on the site of tno Priory, 
 founded by Walter do Aincurt in the 
 12th centy. The ch. preserves the 
 tower nnd 3 bays of the nave; it has 
 been restored, with the addition of a 
 chancel and N. aisle. 
 
 1 1 } m. Bleating (Stat.). The small 
 ch. has been almost rebuilt by the 
 owner of Bleaslnj Hall (U. Kelhnm, 
 
 13 m. Fidcrton (Stat.) is mainly 
 
BoiUe 11 . — Newark-on-Trent. 
 
 71 
 
 noticeable for its well - frequented 
 ferry across tbe Trent, leading to 
 East Stoke , near which, at Stoke 
 Field, took place the bloody conflict 
 in which the army of Henry VII. 
 defeated the forces of the impostor 
 Lambert Simnel (1487), under ' the 
 Earl of Lincoln. The Ch ., which 
 has a low ivy-clad tower, stands close 
 to Stoke Hall (Sir H. Bromley, Bart.), 
 a very stately mansion. Lightfoot, the 
 Hebraist, was bom in this Tillage, 
 1602. 
 
 14 m. Rolleston Junct. Stat. Here 
 the Southwell and Mansfield line 
 (Ete. 14) goes off on N. The village 
 lies S. of the line, on the bank of the 
 Trent ; it has an E. E. ch. 1 m. N. 
 is Averham , the ch. of which has been 
 well restored. It has a good E. win- 
 dow of painted glass, and several fine 
 altar-tombs of the S utton family. 
 
 17 m. Newark-on - Trent (Stat., oppo- 
 site the Castle ; the G. N. Stat. is 1 m. 
 distant in Appleton Gate). Newark 
 {Hotels: Clinton Arms; Earn; Sara- 
 cen's Head) was once remarkable for 
 the number and good accommodation 
 of its Inns, owing to the great traffic 
 through it of travellers and goods 
 along the North road. Among these 
 were the Saracen’s Head, which ex- 
 isted in the time of Edward III., 
 and the White Hart in that of Henry 
 IV. The former Inn has an addi- 
 tional interest from the writings of 
 Sir Walter Scott, whose “ Jeanie 
 Deans” rested the night here on 
 her way from Midlothian to London. 
 The town (notwithstanding its name) 
 stands some distance S. of the main 
 branch of the Trent, but communi- 
 cates therewith by a navigable cut 
 fed by the river Deven, which is 
 crossed by a modern 7-arclied bridge. 
 
 Newark extends along the road 
 from Nottingham to Lincoln, and 
 from very early times was regarded 
 as a strong post to control commu- 
 nication between North and South. 
 Egbert is traditionally said to have 
 built the first fortress here, which, [ 
 
 after falling into the hands of the 
 Northmen, and being again taken 
 from them, was rebuilt by Leofric of 
 Mercia in the time of Edward the 
 Confessor, when it obtained the name 
 of the “New Work.” A strong Norm, 
 castle was built on the site of this by 
 Alexander, Bp. of Lincoln, in 1128, 
 but some years after he had to sur- 
 render it to Stephen. He was a 
 great castle builder, Sleaford and 
 Banbury being also erected by him 
 “ And because buildings of this nature 
 seemed less agreeable to the character 
 of a bishop, to extinguish the envy of 
 them, and to expiate as it were for 
 that offence, he built an equal number 
 of monasteries, and filled them with 
 religious societies.” Here King John 
 died in 1216, but no other event of his- 
 toric importance is recorded of it till 
 the time of Henry VIII., when Wolsey 
 occasionally occupied it. During the 
 civil wars it was a place of great 
 importance to the royal cause, and 
 the townsmen were hearty royalists. 
 It endured three sieges, in the first of 
 which a large part of the town was 
 burnt by the governor as a defensive 
 measure, and it long continued a 
 check on the country between Not- 
 tingham and Lincoln, laying all 
 those parts, says Clarendon, under 
 contribution. At the second siege, in 
 1644, it was defended by Sir Eichard 
 (afterwards Lord) Byron, until Prince 
 Eupert relieved the town, after de- 
 feating the Parliamentarians on Bea- 
 con Hill, and capturing their cannon, 
 ammunition, and 4000 prisoners. 
 Towards the end of 1645 the King, 
 “like a hunted partridge, flitting 
 from one garrison to another,” threw 
 himself into Newark, but found the 
 garrison in a most disorderly state, 
 and, after a painful altercation with 
 his nephew Prince Eupert, withdrew 
 to Oxford. The Scottish army next 
 besieged the castle, for the third 
 time, but it was stoutly defended by 
 Lord Bellasis, who performed his 
 task with the most loyal fidelity, 
 
 ( making several vigorous and de- 
 
72 
 
 Route 11 . — Nottingham to Lincoln . 
 
 ^tractive sallies, though the town 
 was encompassed by lines and ram- 
 parts thrown up along a circuit of 
 2J m., and rebelling every assault, 
 until commanded by his master to 
 surrender to the assailants, May 8, 
 1G46. Charles having put himself in 
 their hands in their campatKelham 
 3 days before. The Scots withdrew, 
 and the Parliamentary commission- 
 ers at once set about the destruction 
 of the Castle, reducing it to a mere 
 shell, in which condition it still 
 stands, a picturesque ruin, at the 
 foot of the bridge. The walls are 
 all Norm., and the windows Perp. in- 
 sertions. The gatehouse is Norm. ; 
 as are also a crypt under the hall, the 
 remains of the S.W. tower, and a 
 postern-gate towards the river. The 
 long and lofty wall rising from the 
 water-side, though Norm., has a Perp. 
 aspect, being pierced with windows 
 in that style. The crypt, long occu- 
 pied as a coal -store, has been cleared, 
 and is worth a visit The space in 
 front is used as a coal-wharf, and the 
 cattle market occupies some of the 
 courts. Another part of the site is 
 laid out as a pleasure ground, with 
 baths. Some of the fortified works 
 thrown up in the civil war may still 
 be traced ; but Beacon Hill is now 
 surmounted by the reservoir of the 
 waterworks. 
 
 Newark is now a place of consi- 
 derable trade (Pop. 12,218), its corn- 
 market being one of the largest in the 
 kingdom. Maltliouses, agricultural 
 implement works, and gypsum mills 
 furnish the chief employment of the 
 people. In the Market-place some 
 few of the houses with ornamented 
 fronts remain, and at the junction of 
 Carter Gate and Lombard-street is 
 Beaumond CrrtM, once a handsome 
 shaft with figures and canopied 
 niches, but now in a state of decay. 
 
 The Grammar School , founded in 
 1529 by Archdeacon Magnus of York, 
 has been rebuilt. A mong its scholars 
 are named Ups. White and Warbur- 
 ion, and Stukohy the antiquary. 
 
 Warburton was a native of tho town, 
 and practised as a conveyancer there 
 before he entered tho Church. 
 
 The Church of St. Mary Magdalene t 
 restored by Scott, one of tho largest 
 and most beautiful parish churches 
 in tho kingdom, is the grand orna- 
 ment of Newark ; it consists of nave 
 with aisles, transepts, choir, and 
 chantry chapels. The tower — tho 
 grand feature of tho building — is 
 Early Eng., surmounted by a Dec. 
 spire, adorned with statues of the 12 
 Apostles, but the rest of the building 
 is mainly Perp., t. Henry YI. The 
 W. part of tne S. aisle is Dec. ; 
 two Norm, piers are standing in tho 
 nave, and the base of tho tower seems 
 also to be Norm. 
 
 “ The upper story of tho tower 
 rises from a band of small panels. 
 The story consists of a flat buttress, of 
 not much projection, on each side, thus 
 making 8 round the tower : these are 
 in 3 stages -the 2 lower plain, with 
 small plain set-offs; the upper pa- 
 nelled, with an ogee head and an 
 ogee canopy, above which is a tri- 
 angular head to tho buttress, richly 
 crocketed, which finishes the but- 
 tress under the cornice. Between 
 these 2 buttresses aro 2 beautiful 
 2-light windows with rich cano- 
 pies on the dripstone, and a general 
 canopy over both, crocketed and 
 finishing in a rich finial. The tracery 
 of these windows is very good, and 
 the architraves, both of windows and 
 niches, are composed of shafts.” — 
 Iiichman. 
 
 In tho chancel is somo good 
 screen- work and a Teredos, and thero 
 is a noble E. window, with flowing 
 tracery. The former altar-piece, 
 Christ raising Lazarus, by Hilton, 
 is now placed under tho W. window. 
 In the 8. tmnsept is one of tho finest 
 and largest hraimcs known, measuring 
 9 ft. l in. by 5 ft. 7 in. It is t<> the 
 memory of Alan Fleming, said to bo 
 the restorer of the ch. in 1361, and is 
 elaborately engraved with his effigy, 
 
73 
 
 Route 1 1 . — Collingham. — Hyheliam. 
 
 in a civic dress, under a rich Gothic 
 canopy, environed by saints and an- 
 gels.' It is supposed to be of the 
 same date and by the same artist as 
 the Lynn brasses. There are several 
 other brasses, particularly one to 
 Bober t Browne (1532), constable of 
 the castle, and receiver to Cardinal 
 Wolsey. The E. window is filled with 
 stained glass, by Hardman , erected at 
 a cost of 1000L to the memory of the 
 Prince Consort, the subjects taken 
 from the history of our Lord. The 
 organ has been enlarged, and is now 
 one of the finest in the county. 
 
 In a chamber over the S. porch is 
 n theological library, bequeathed by 
 Bp. White, of Peterborough. There 
 are also a public Library of 11,000 
 volumes, and a News-room, in the 
 Market-place. 
 
 Christ Church is a modern E. E. 
 Building. 
 
 The ecclesiologist should not leave 
 the neighbourhood of Newark with- 
 out visiting the Ch. at Hawton, 1^ m. 
 S., the Dec. chancel of which contains 
 a beautiful 7-liglit window, and an 
 Easter sepulchre with carved figures. 
 The subjects represent the Soldiers 
 sleeping at the Tomb, the Eising of 
 our Saviour, His Ascension, and the 
 three Maries bringing ointment. A. 
 copy of this monument may be seen 
 in the Crystal Palace. The ch. also 
 contains a piscina, and sedilia with 
 most elaborately decorated canopies. 
 Some of these are engraved in Park- 
 er’s ‘ Gloss, of Architecture.’ The 
 Perp. tower (c. 1483) is fine, but not 
 equal to the rest of the building. 
 
 Proceeding E. the line at 19 m. 
 passes Winthorpe Hall (G. Hodgkin- 
 son, Esq.), with fine grounds border- 
 ing the Trent on N., and reaches at 
 
 22J m. Collingham (Stat.). The 
 village is mainly one long street, 
 running N. from the line, but is di- 
 vided into N. and S. Collingham (each 
 having a good restored Ch.'), and is 
 remarkable for its clean and plea- 
 sant appearance. N. Collingham is 
 
 [. Derby , Notts , Leic., & Staff . ] 
 
 said to be the birthplace of Dr. Blow, 
 the organist (b. 1648, d. 1708). At 
 Potter’s Hill, 2 m. E. of S. Colling- 
 ham, is a large tumulus ; and Brough 
 and Conevgree, stations on the Fosse 
 Way, lie S. of Potter’s Hill. 
 
 At 24 m. is South Scarle , with a 
 large Perp. ch. ; soon after passing 
 which the line enters Lincolnshire. 
 
 25J m. Swinderby (Stat.). 
 
 27 J m. Thorpe (Stat.). The Ch. 
 has a small Norm, tower, with some 
 pointed windows — insertions. The 
 
 W. elevation, although of a very 
 simple character, is excellent and 
 uncommon. 
 
 30J m. Hylceham (Stat.). There 
 are two villages, North and South 
 Hylceham , of which the latter only 
 has a ch. 
 
 Approaching Lincoln, we have on 
 E. the very curious Church of Brace- 
 bridge All Saints , small, but worthy 
 of close attention. Three angles of 
 the nave and a door in the wall 
 exhibit decided long-and-short work ; 
 and although there is none of this 
 masonry in the tower, its double 
 round-headed belfry windows, the 
 W. door, the arch into the nave, 
 and the chancel-arch, are in that 
 style which is generally referred to 
 the Anglo-Saxon period. On each 
 side of the massive semicircular 
 chancel -arch is a round-headed 
 opening, which might be termed a 
 hagioscope. Here, then, as well as 
 at St. Peter’s at Gowts, we find 
 these plain substantial semicircular 
 arches springing from square pro- 
 jecting impost blocks, the under- 
 edges of which are bevelled, resem- 
 bling so many in the district; for 
 instance at Clee, St. Mary de Wig- 
 ford’s, Waith, and Holton le Clay, 
 in conjunction with long-and-short 
 work ; ^circumstance which goes far 
 to prove that these churches also 
 belong to the class commonly sup- 
 posed to be Anglo-Saxon, The 3 
 Early-Eng. pointed arches of the 
 nave are supported by octagonal 
 
 E 
 
74 
 
 Route 12 . — Nottingham to Grantham. 
 
 piers?, set down with 4 banded shafts. 
 There is a simple Early-Eng. door 
 in the S. wall, with a toothed mould- 
 ing in the architrave and down the 
 jambs, and a largo arched recess 
 nearly concealed by pews. 
 
 “ Some incised floor crosses may 
 be perceived about the building, and 
 there is an hourglass-stand in the 
 pulpit — a relic of Puritanical times.” 
 — Journal Arch. Inst. 
 
 BouUham St. Helen cli. has been 
 rebuilt during the present eenty., 
 and contains a small painted window 
 by Waites. 
 
 33 j m. Lincoln. (Stat.). See Hand- 
 book for Lincolnshire. 
 
 ROUTE 12. 
 
 NOTTINGHAM TO GRANTHAM, BY 
 BINGHAM AND BOTTESFORD. [BEL- 
 VOIR.] 
 
 G. X. RAILWAY. 22 f m. 
 
 The first 3 m. of the journey are 
 performed on the Midland line, 
 which is quitted a short distance W. 
 of Carlton (Stat.) (Rte. 11). Across 
 the Trent arc seen the grounds of 
 Holme Pierrepont and the lofty spire 
 of the ch. The scenery here is very 
 picturesque, the S. bank overhung 
 oy precipitous cliffs of New Red sand- 
 stone. The river is spanned by a 
 fine bridge, and we reach at 
 
 5Jra. Hadcliffe (Stat.). The village 
 stands on high ground, J m. rt., and 
 is a busy place, stocking-weaving, 
 malting, and basket-making being 
 the chief employments. Tljp ch. has 
 been restored, and has several good 
 modem stained-glass windows. 
 
 1 m. W. is the village of Holme 
 Pierrepont , with a noble Hall a 
 .-■at or Earl Manvera), inherited by 
 the Picrrcponts from the ^lanvers 
 
 family about the reign of Edward I. 
 The house is a largo irregular 
 building, parts of it being of con- 
 siderable age. In the ch. are several 
 tombs of the Pierreponts— one with 
 the effigy of Sir Henry Fierrepont, 
 1615, and a very good Corinthian 
 structure commemorating a Countess 
 of Kingston, of the Talbot blood. 
 The Dukes of Kingston were buried 
 here, though Thoresby was their 
 principal residence. 
 
 2 m. to the N. of Radcliffe, under 
 the shelter of the high ground over- 
 looking the Trent, is Shelford , onco 
 the seat of the Earls of Chesterfield, 
 whose mansion is now occupied by a 
 farmer. It was garrisoned for the king 
 by Col. Stanhope, in the civil war, 
 and burnt by the Parliamentary 
 troops. Some of the family, including 
 the celebrated Earl, are buried in 
 the ch. 
 
 0 m. Bingham (Stat.) The small 
 market town (Inn: Chesterfield 
 
 Arms) stands in a low situation, in 
 a flat, well-cultivated district, the 
 Yale of Belvoir, of which it is con- 
 sidered the capital (Fop. 2000). It 
 is a neat thriving place, with many 
 new houses, and a new market-cross 
 on the site of an older one; but it 
 was evidently once larger than it is 
 at present. Numerous foundations 
 of atlcient buildings are found ex- 
 tending for beyond the present limits, 
 even to the hamlet of Saxondale, 1J 
 m. W. All Saints f Churchy once a 
 collegiate establishment, is a largo 
 and very fine cruciform structure, 
 the E. E. tow er and Dec. spire being 
 its main features. The chancel ami 
 transepts are Dec., but much of tho 
 tracery has been destroyed, or re- 
 placed by Pern. work. “Of tho 
 aisle arcades tho northern i9 tho 
 earliest as indicated by the severity 
 of its pillar capitals and mouldings 
 generally. Tho former are well 
 worthy of careful examination, con- 
 taining some l)eautiful specimens of 
 carved animals. The 8. arcade is 
 for the most part built of a different 
 
75 
 
 Honte 12 . — Bingham. — Bottesford. 
 
 kind of stone. Its pillar-shafts are 
 octagonal ; these spring from bases, 
 some of which have bold water- 
 mouldings ; all the capitals are foli- 
 ated, and the manner in which the 
 acanthus-like leaves in one instance, 
 exhibit their nerves as they bend 
 round the bell behind is pleasing, as 
 well as the flow of those upon the 
 westernmost one, as though it was 
 yielding to the wind.” — ( [Rev . E. 
 Trollope .) In the S. aisle is an 
 effigy of a knight, supposed to be 
 that of Richard de Bingham, of the 
 time of Edward f. Some modern 
 stained glass is the work of an 
 amateur. Bingham boasts of having 
 had as three successive rectors in 
 the 17th centy., Abbot, Archbishop 
 of Canterbury, Wren, Bishop of Ely, 
 and Hanmer, Bishop of St. Asaph, 
 also of having given birth to Arch- 
 bishop Seeker, Admiral Lord Howe, 
 and Thoroton, the historian of the 
 county. 
 
 The antiquary will find the site 
 of a Roman station , supposed to 
 have been the ancient Yernometum, 
 about 1 m. to the N., between Bing- 
 ham and East Bridgeford, on the 
 course of the Roman Eosse Way to 
 Newark. 
 
 2 m. N. E. of Bingham is Carcol- 
 ston , with a small Perp. ch. Col. 
 Hacker, who commanded the guard 
 at the death of Charles I., resided in 
 the old Hall; this was afterwards 
 occupied by Thoroton, the historian 
 of Notts, who is buried in the ch.-yard. 
 1 m. farther N. E. is Screveton, where 
 Thoroton was born. The ch. con- 
 tains some handsome 16th-centy. 
 monuments of the Whalley family. 
 4 m. S. E. of Bingham is Langar , 
 with some Scrope tombs in the ch., 
 and the gatehouse of Wiverton Hall, 
 once their seat. 
 
 5 m. SW. is Owfhorpe , where Col. 
 Hutchinson resided; his monument 
 is in the ch. 
 
 11J m. Aslacton (Stat.) This is a 
 township of Whatton, but its chapel 
 has fallen into ruin. A farm now 
 occupies the site of the moated 
 Manor House, in which Archbishop 
 Cranmer was born in 1489; traces 
 exist of its pleasure-grounds, and 
 “ Cranmer’s walk ” is pointed out. 
 A short distance otf is the very plain 
 but interesting Ch. of Whatton , in 
 which Cranmer is said to have com- 
 menced his ministry. It is cruciform, 
 mainly E. E., with Norm, traces, 
 and a Dec. spire. There are several 
 monuments of early date for the 
 families of Whatton, Newmarch, and 
 Cranmer, but the most interesting is 
 an incised slab of the 16th centy., 
 representing a layman named Cran- 
 mer. Whatton Manor House (T. D. 
 Hall, Esq.) is a very handsome man- 
 sion, with extensive grounds. 
 
 13 m. Elton (Stat.). The stat. lies 
 midway between the villages of 
 Orston (N.) and Elton (S.). The 
 former has a local repute for its ex- 
 tensive gypsum beds, and a spring 
 supposed to be very efficacious in 
 scorbutic cases; and the latter is a 
 meet for the Belvoir hounds. The 
 ch. of Orston has Norm, traces ; that 
 of Elton is a very small, poor- build- 
 ing. In 1780 a discovery was made 
 in the ch.-yard, of Elton of a very 
 large number of silver coins of 
 Henry II. 
 
 The line now passes into Leicester- 
 shire, and reaches at 
 
 15f m. Bottesford (Stat.) (Inn : 
 Rutland Arms), the nearest Stat. to 
 Belvoir Castle, the noble seat of the 
 Duke of Rutland, which occupies a 
 commanding position 4 m. to the S. 
 The little town (Pop. 1500) stands 
 in a pleasant spot on the small river 
 Deven, but is best known for its fine 
 Ch., which for several centuries was 
 the burial-place for the Manners 
 family. It is mainly early Perp., but 
 has some slight E. E. and Dec. traces, 
 and also some debased Perp. 
 (Jacobean) portions ; the tower and 
 spire rise to the height of 222 ft., 
 e 2 
 
7G 
 
 Route 12 . — Nottingham to Grantham. 
 
 and are of very fine proportions. 
 The chancel contains the superb 
 monuments of all the Manners Earls 
 of Rutland, and of several other 
 members of the family; among them, 
 one of two youths, whose death was 
 ascriljed to the magic arts of two 
 female servants (Margaret and Phi- 
 lippa Flower), for which they were 
 executed. There are also two brasses, 
 for rectors of the ch. (II. de Codyng- 
 ton, 1404, and John Freman, 1440), 
 and a very curious diminutive effigy 
 in chain-mail, once taken to represent 
 Robert de Todenei, the reputed Nor- 
 man founder of Belvoir, but believed 
 now to be for his great grandson, 
 William de Albini, one of the ‘25 
 barons who swore to enforce the ob- 
 servance of Magna Charta (d. 1236). 
 In the ch.-yard, is a curious incised 
 slab (14th oenty.), w^hicli represents 
 the semi-effigy of a female, respecting 
 which there is a tradition that it 
 represents “the fair maid of Nor- 
 manton ” (an adjoining village), who 
 was killed by earwigs. — (Rev. E. 
 Trollope .) 
 
 [4 m. S. of Bottesford stands the 
 superb seat of Belvoir Castle ( Duke 
 of Rutland), occupying the artificial 
 mound thrown up on a spur of the 
 Leicestershire Wolds by Robert de 
 Todenei, to whom the surrounding 
 district was granted by the Conqueror, 
 ns the site of his stronghold. This 
 afterwards passed to the Albinis, the 
 lords of Melton Mowbray, and, by 
 marriages, first to the Do Ros and 
 then to the Manners family. It was 
 forfeited to the Crown by the Lan- 
 castrian Lord IV Roe in 1461, and 
 was by Edward IV. granted to Lord 
 Hastings. On the accession of 
 Henry VII. it was restored to the 
 son of tho late lord. He, however, 
 died without issue, and the estate 
 fell to George Manners, the son of 
 his sister Eleanor ; it has ever since 
 remained in the Manners’ family. 
 Among the older topographers there 
 Has been some dismission ns to tho 
 foundation of Belvoir (locally “ Ikc- 
 
 ver”), Burton attributing it, but 
 wrongly, to one of the Albinis. Its 
 situation also, on the borders of 
 Leicester and Lincoln, has caused it 
 to be claimed for each shire, the fact 
 being, that tho vast estate extends 
 into both. 
 
 A priory was founded at the foot 
 of the mound by De Todenei, and in 
 it the lords of Belvoir were usually 
 buried. On the suppression of tho 
 priory many of the monuments wero 
 removed to Bottesford ch. (ante), 
 and others to Croxton Abbey, by 
 the 2nd Earl of Rutland. 
 
 Belvoir was a royal garrison in tho 
 civil war, and having suffered greatly 
 from subsequent neglect, its rebuild- 
 ing was commenced in 1800 by tho 
 5th Duke of Rutland, under tho 
 direction of Wyatt. The works wero 
 carried on until 1816, w hen a firo 
 made great havoc, but they wero 
 resumed on a still larger scale, and 
 the Castle is now a splendid cas- 
 tellated building (pseudo-Gothic), 
 with a frontage of 252 ft., occu- 
 pying a grand position on tho 
 summit of an isolated hill, over- 
 grown with beautiful timber. There 
 is a country saying, “ If Beevcr 
 hath a cap, you churls of tho valo 
 look to that,” alluding to tho po- 
 sition of tho castle, as affording a 
 good prognostic of min. At tho 
 lx)ttom stand the stables and offices. 
 The visitor enters by an archway 
 on the N.W. The entrance-hall 
 contains a number of figures in 
 armour, and leads through a corridor 
 lighted by stained glass to tho stair- 
 case, which is lined with portraits of 
 the Earls of Rutland by Yandych and 
 Knrller. The principal njxirtmcnt 
 is the Regent’s Gallery, 131 ft. long, 
 so called after the visit of the Prinoo 
 Regent (afterwards George IV.) in 
 1814. In it is some tapestry, 
 representing, with extraordinary vi- 
 vidness, scenes in ‘ Don Quixote 
 also family portraits ; of which tho 
 principal are Lady Tyrconnell, Mar- 
 chioness of Grunby, 9th Countess of 
 
Route 13 . — Nottingham to Mansfield. 
 
 Rutland, by Lely. Among other 
 pictures is the Death of Lord Man- 
 ners. by Stothard ; there is also a bust 
 by Nollekens. Adjoining is the chapel, 
 containing a fine altarpiece by Mu- 
 rillo. The library has 2 portraits of 
 Charles II., by Vandyck and Voster- 
 man ; and the ball-room, one of 
 Lady J. Manners. In the apartment 
 known as the Queen’s bedroom are 
 curious paintings on Chinese silk. 
 The drawing-room is fitted up most 
 elaborately in the Louis Quatorze 
 style, the ceiling painted with 
 scenes of classic mythology, intro- 
 ducing, among other likenesses, the 
 Duke of York . as Jupiter ; the 
 sides of the room contain compart- 
 ments in which is a series of minia- 
 tures, and among them a set repre- 
 senting Queen Elizabeth and some of 
 her ministers. There is also a marble 
 statue of the late Duchess of Rutland. 
 In the dining-room is the table for 
 holding the punch-bowl, in which 
 the white cloth, sculptured by 
 Wyatt , is marvellously represented. 
 The Picture-gallery, 62 ft. long, con- 
 tains a selection of family portraits 
 and others, by Sir J. Reynolds, Lely, 
 Holbein. Kneller, Vandyck, &c. : also 
 paintings by N. Poussin, Claude, 
 Vandervelde, Teniers, Rubens, Mu- 
 rillo, Salvator Rosa, Ostade, West, 
 Gainsborough, Stothard, &c. Notice 
 particularly the Proverbs by Te- 
 niers , in which a portrait of his son 
 occupies a prominent place ; the 
 Seven Sacraments, by N. Poussin; 
 Shepherd and Shepherdess, Ru- 
 bens ; Crucifixion, Vandyck ; por- 
 trait of Rembrandt, by himself ; 
 Virgin and Child, Carlo Dolce ; Pre- 
 sentation, Murillo ; Last Supper, K. 
 Poussin. A number of valuable 
 pictures were destroyed in 1816, 
 when this portion of the castle 
 was burnt down. Additional inte- 
 rest is conferred on these apart- 
 ments by the beautiful and exten- 
 sive views over the vale of Belvoir and 
 the three counties of Leicester, Not- 
 tingham, and Lincoln, the castle and j 
 
 77 
 
 cathedral of the two latter towns 
 being visible. 
 
 The keep of the Castle is known as 
 the Staunton Tower , and is under the 
 honorary command of the Staunton 
 family, who hold it by an old tenure 
 that they should raise soldiers for its 
 defence when required. 
 
 The terrace gardens on the hill- 
 side and the grounds generally are 
 remarkable for their beautiful situa- 
 tion and the skill lavished on them. 
 The visitor should obtain permission 
 to see the Mausoleum , a stone build- 
 ing of Norm, architecture, in the 
 grounds, containing a beautiful sculp- 
 tured effigy of the late Duchess of 
 Rutland. 
 
 Of the Priory , founded by De 
 Todenei, there are no remains; but 
 part of its site is occupied by a com- 
 fortable little Inn. Belvoir is open 
 to visitors daily. For the country 
 S. of Belvoir, see Rte. 21.] 
 
 The line, soon after leaving Bottes- 
 ford, passes into Lincolnshire, and 
 we arrive at 
 
 18| m. Sedgebrook (Stat.). 
 
 22f m. Grantham (Stat.) ( Hotel : 
 Angel). See Handbook for Lincoln- 
 shire. 
 
 ROUTE 13. 
 
 NOTTINGHAM TO MANSFIELD, BY 
 NEWSTEAD. [HARDWICK HALL, 
 EOLSOVER.] 
 
 MIDLAND EAILWAY. 17 2 1U. 
 
 The branch line to Mansfield (in 
 course of continuation to Worksop), 
 runs off N. from the main line near 
 the foot of the Castle rock, passing 
 up the valley of the river Lene. 
 There are stats, at both Lenton and 
 Radford , which are in fact suburbs 
 j of Nottingham. 
 
78 
 
 Route 13 . — Nottingham to Mansfield . 
 
 4 in. Bas/ord (Stat.). one of the 
 great scats of the hosier)' and lac© 
 manufactures. The ch., dedicated 
 to St. Leodegorius, is a good mainly 
 Perp. edifice ; but the modem ch. of 
 New Basford, though small, is more 
 deserving of notice for the richness 
 of its internal decorations. 
 
 5J m. Buhcell (Stat ). The modern 
 ch. has a memorial window to the late 
 Puke of Newcastle. JJul well Hull 
 (Rev. C. Padley). 2 m. W. is Nut- 
 halt , with a small old ch., and very 
 extensive collieries. Nuthall Temple 
 (It. Holden, Esq.), once a seat of the 
 S tlleys, is one of many copies of the 
 Villa (Capra of Palladio, near Vicenza. 
 
 m. HucknaU Turku rd. (Stat.) 
 Tiic Ch.y a very plain building, with 
 square tower at the W. end, has a 
 family vault, in which Lord Byron, 
 his mother, and his only daughter, 
 are buried ; ns well as John, the first 
 lord (d. 1652), and his six brothers, 
 nil stout Royalists of the time of 
 Charles I. A simple tablet of white 
 marble, erected by Lady Lovelace, is 
 the poet’s only monument. 3 m. 
 W., situated amidst very broken and 
 pretty scenery, are some slight re- 
 mains of Beauvnle Abbey , founded by 
 Nicholas de Cantilupe, Lord of Ilkes- 
 ton, in the reign of Edward III., for 
 Carthusian monks. Little is known 
 of the history of this Prior)', except 
 tlint it was one of the foundations to 
 which John of Gaunt made an an- 
 nual grant of a tun of wine. The 
 ruins are incorjioratcd with the 
 offices of a farmhouse. 1 to. S. are 
 also some remains of G re dry Castle, 
 a stronghold of the Cantilupcs, 
 founded in 1341. 
 
 9} in- LMy ( sf.it ). the « h. ‘'f 
 which contains some monuments of 
 the Chaworths. At 10 J m. there is 
 a small stat. for New stead, but it is 
 not open to the public, and the only 
 approach is from Linby, about 2 m. 
 8.W. of the house. Anne shy Halt, 
 the seat of the Cliawortlis, is 1 m. 
 W. of the Xcwstcad stat. 
 
 Neicstead Abbey (W. F. Webb, 
 Ewp) — 
 
 "An old, old monastery once, and now 
 Still older mansion—* ot a rich and rare 
 Mix'd Gothic, such as artists ull allow 
 Few specimens yet left us can compare 
 Withal ; it lies perhaps a little low, 
 Because Uie monks preferr'd u bill behind 
 To Bhelter tbelr devotions from the wind ” — 
 
 is about 11 m. N.W. of Nottingham 
 by the Mansfield turnpike-road. Tho 
 entrance from this road, which is E. 
 of the house, is marked by a fine 
 vigorous tree, called “ The Pilgrim’s 
 Oak’’ (sole survivor of the old wood, 
 cut down by tho 5th Lord Byron). 
 The house, which used to bo libe- 
 rally shown in Col. Wildman’s time, 
 is now unfortunately closed to the 
 tourist (though opened to the British 
 Association in 1866), and the inn, 
 called the Hut, has been converted 
 into a house for 31 r. Webb’s chaplain. 
 A road of nearly j in. leads down to 
 the house; and an avenue of 1 £ m., 
 planted with Wellingtonia rjiganteas , 
 extends from it to tho private stat. 
 
 on w. 
 
 The Augustine Priory of Newstead 
 (for Abbey is a modern misnomer) 
 was founded about 1 170 by Henry II., 
 and the names of 20 of its priors 
 have been preserved. John Blake, 
 the last of them, surrendered tho 
 house to the Crown July 21, 1530, 
 and had a pension of 161. 13s. id . ; 
 tho annual value is stated at 219/. 
 18s. 8 d. On May 28, 1540, its jxra- 
 sessions, and also those of tho Priory 
 of Haverholino, Lincolnshire, were 
 sold to Sir John Byron, of Colwick 
 (called “ Little John with the great 
 board”), and his Illegitimate son 
 John succeeded him in lKiascssion. 
 u Ho probably converted tho do- 
 mestic buildings of the monastery 
 into a residence for himself. Tho 
 Prior)* Church would form a quarry 
 close at hand* from which mate- 
 rials could bo procured for such 
 alterations as lie and his successors 
 might desire. Excepting, therefore, 
 its W. front, which evidently was 
 once highly ornamented, its 8. wall, 
 
79 
 
 J Route 13 . — New stead Abbey. 
 
 of great strength, two sides of its 
 S. transept, now transformed into 
 the Orangery, and the vacant E. win- 
 dow, little remains of which can be 
 traced above ground. The cloister 
 court still retains its cloisters of the 
 late Perp. style, in which may be 
 observed an E. E. doorway, which 
 led into the nave of the ch., near the 
 W. end, and the position of the 
 Norman lavatory on the S. side.” — 
 (J. M. G.) Sir Richard Byron gar- 
 risoned the house for Charles I., and 
 the family suffered severely during 
 the civil war. At the Restoration a 
 pension of 500Z. a year was granted 
 to the widow of the 1st lord, and 
 the second lord had a grant of money 
 instead of liberty to cut down 1000 
 great oaks in Sherwood Forest which 
 Charles I. had bestowed on him ; 
 but these were only slight compensa- 
 tions for its losses. Evelyn, who 
 visited Newstead in 1651, says of it, 
 41 It is situated much like Fontaine- 
 bleau in France, capable of being 
 made a noble seat, accommodated as 
 it is with brave woods and streams. 
 It has yet remaining the front of a 
 glorious abbey ch.” Those, however, 
 were not days of restoration ; and in 
 the 4th generation the estate came 
 into the hands of the 5th lord, who, 
 from hatred to his heirs, seemed in 
 his later years to take an insane 
 pleasure in making as much havoc 
 as possible. From him his great 
 nephew, the poet, received the place 
 in 1798, in a state of complete desola- 
 tion. Its once noble woods presented 
 a broken surface of mere stumps of 
 trees. The gardens were neglected 
 and overgrown with trees, the lake 
 was half-choked with mud, and the 
 house falling to decay, with damp 
 lichens spreading over its walls. Of 
 the state of the place some 30 years 
 before Horace Walpole speaks thus : 
 “ I like Newstead. It is the very 
 abbey. The great E. window of the 
 ch. remains, and connects with the 
 house ; the hall entire, the refectory 
 entire, the cloister untouched, with 
 
 the ancient cistern of the convent, 
 and their arms on it ; a private cha- 
 pel quite perfect. The park, which 
 is still charming, has not been so 
 much unprofaned ; the present Lord 
 has lost large sums, and paid part in 
 old oaks, 5000/. of which have been 
 cut near the house. In recompense 
 he has built two baby forts, to pay 
 his country in castles for the damage 
 done to the navy, and planted a 
 handful of Scotch firs, that look like 
 ploughboys dressed in family liveries 
 for a public day. In the hall is a 
 very good collection of pictures, all 
 animals ; the refectory, now the great 
 drawing-room, is full of Byrons ; the 
 vaulted roof remains, but the win- 
 dows have new dresses making for 
 them by a Venetian tailor.” 
 
 The poet was a minor when he 
 came into possession of his desolate 
 heritage, and in after years his habits 
 and want of means prevented his 
 doing anything effectual to arrest its 
 decay, though he always regarded it 
 with affection. He fitted up a corner 
 for himself, but even that was not 
 altogether impervious to the rain. 
 At last he sold it, in 1818, to his 
 old schoolfellow, Col. Wildman, who, 
 having given for it the sum of 95,000Z., 
 expended as milch more in its re- 
 storation, with taste and judgment, 
 under the direction of Shaw , the 
 architect. Newstead on this occa- 
 sion had a narrow escape of falling 
 into the hands of a neighbouring 
 peer, whose only object in acquiring 
 it was to merge it in his own vast 
 domain, and pull down the house. 
 Fortunately another destiny awaited 
 it, and Col. Wildman not only raised 
 it from ruin, but was careful to pre- 
 serve the antique character of the 
 place, and to treat with respect all 
 the associations connected with it, 
 and under his care it reached a state 
 of splendour never surpassed in its 
 best days. The present beautiful and 
 flourishing woods were all planted 
 by him, and the residence in effect 
 rebuilt in the Jacobean style, pre- 
 
80 
 
 Route 13 . — Nottingham to . 'Mansfield . 
 
 serving the old terraced gardens. In 
 close contiguity are the remains of 
 the ruined ch., whose vacant but ele- 
 gant E. window forms a striking fea- 
 ture in all views : — 
 
 “ A glorious remnant of the Gothic pile 
 
 (While yet the church was Rome's) stood 
 half apart 
 
 I n a grand arch, which once screen’d many 
 an aisle. 
 
 These last had disappear’d— a loss to art ; 
 The first yet frown'd superbly o'er the soil, 
 And kindled feelings in the roughest heart. 
 Which mourn’d the power of time’s or tem- 
 pests march 
 
 In gazing on that venerable arch. 
 
 Within a niche, nigh to Its pinnacle, 
 
 Twelve saints had once stood sanctified 
 in stone ; 
 
 But these had fallen— not when the friars 
 fell, 
 
 But in the war which struck Charles from 
 his throne ; 
 
 When each house was a fortalice, as tell 
 The annals of full many a line undone — 
 The gallant Cavaliers, who fought in vain 
 For those who knew not to resign or reign. 
 
 But in a higher niche, alone, but crown’d, 
 The Virgin Mother of the God-born child, 
 With her Son in her blessed arms, look’d 
 round. 
 
 Spared by some chance when all beside 
 was spoil’d ; 
 
 She made the earth below seem holy ground. 
 
 This may be superstition, weak or wild; 
 But even the faintest relics of a shrine 
 Of any worship wake some thoughts divine. 
 
 A mighty window, hollow in the centre, 
 
 Mi orn "fit' glass of thousand colourings, 
 Through which the deepen’d glories once 
 could enter, 
 
 Streaming from ofT the sun like seraph’s 
 wings, 
 
 Now yawns all desolate; now loud, now 
 fainter, 
 
 The gale sweeps through its fretwork, and 
 ott sings 
 
 The owl his anthem, where the silenced 
 quire 
 
 Lie with their hallelujahs quench’d like 
 fire. 
 
 But in the noontide of the moon, and when 
 The wind is ringed from one point of 
 heaven, 
 
 There moans a strange unearthly sound, 
 which then 
 
 Is musical— a dying accent driven 
 Through the huge arch, which soars and 
 sinks again. 
 
 Some deem it but the distant echo given 
 Back to the night-wind by the waterfall, 
 And harmonised by the old choral wall.” 
 
 From a low-vaulted crypt on the 
 
 ground floor, resting on pillars, the 
 entrance lies into a noble hall, which 
 has been well restored. The dining- 
 room, panelled with oak, has a cu- 
 rious carved chimney-piece, with 
 heads and the figure of a lady be- 
 tween two Moors in one compart- 
 ment. A similar chimney-piece ex- 
 ists in one of the bedrooms, in which 
 the female is said by tradition to be 
 a Saracen lady, rescued by one of 
 the Byrons, a crusader, from her 
 infidel kinsfolk. 
 
 At the end of the building, next 
 the chapel, the poet’s own bedroom 
 remains nearly as he left it, witli the 
 bed, furniture, and portraits of Joe 
 Murray, his old butler, and Jackson, 
 the boxer, which he brought with 
 him from Cambridge. 
 
 A low cloister runs around a court, 
 in the midst of which rises a quaint 
 fountain : — 
 
 “ Amidst the court a Gothic fountain play’d. 
 Symmetrical, but deck'd with carvings 
 quaint- 
 
 Strange faces, like to men in masquerade, 
 And here perhaps a monster, there a saint ; 
 
 The spring gush’d through grim mouths of 
 granite made 
 
 And sparkled into basins, where it spent 
 
 Its little torrent in a thousand bubbles, 
 
 Like man’s vain glory and his vainer trou- 
 bles.” 
 
 The garden is flanked on one side 
 by a raised terrace with balustrades. 
 In the middle is a monkish fish-pond 
 or stone basin, above which rises a 
 grove of trees, flanked at either end 
 by leaden statues of Fauns, set up by 
 a former Lord Byron, and known to 
 the country folk as “the old Lord’s 
 Devils.” Upon the bark of a beech 
 tree, one of two springing from ono 
 stem like brother and sister, Lord 
 Byron carved his name and that of 
 his sister Augusta during his last 
 visit to the place in 1813 The in- 
 scription, being in danger of perish- 
 ing, has been cut out, and is now 
 preserved in a glass case in the house. 
 On the edge of the pretty modern 
 flower-garden rises “ the young oak ” 
 which he planted and celebrated 
 
Route 13 . — Newstead Abbey. — Fountain Bale. 
 
 by some verses. Lord Byron, whose 
 early jests were often of a question- 
 able sort, caused the tombs of some of 
 the monks to be opened, and raised 
 several stone coffins, from one of 
 which he selected a skull, and had 
 it mounted in silver as a drinking- 
 cup ; this the present owner has in- 
 terred in the chapter-house, now used 
 as a private chapel. 
 
 On the lawn is the monument to 
 “Boatswain,” a favourite Newfound- 
 land dog, whose epitaph by his mas- 
 ter is engraved on, it. Lord Byron 
 desired in his will to be buried beside 
 this monument — a direction very 
 properly neglected by his relatives. 
 In front of the Abbey expands a 
 lake, frequently mentioned by the 
 poet : — 
 
 “ Before the mansion lay a lucid lake 
 r Broad as transparen t, deep and freshly fed 
 
 By a river, which its soften’d way did take 
 In currents through the calmer waters 
 spread 
 
 Around ; the wild fowl nestled in the brake 
 And sedges, brooding in their liquid bed ; 
 
 The woods sloped downwards to its brink, 
 and stood 
 
 With their green faces fix’d upon the 
 flood. 
 
 I did remind thee of our own dear lake 
 By the old Hall, which may be mine no 
 more. 
 
 Leman is fair; but think not I forsake 
 The sweet remembrance of a dearer shore; 
 
 Sad havoc time must with my memory make 
 Ere that or thou can fade these eyes be- 
 fore .” — To Augusta. 
 
 On the brink are the forts built 
 by the old Lord, who also maintained 
 a small vessel on the water. In the 
 view seen from its margin and other 
 parts of the park, a conspicuous 
 feature is the headland, once crown- 
 ed with a tuft of trees, beautifully 
 alluded to in Byron’s poem of ‘ The 
 Dream,’ but wantonly cut down 
 some years ago by Mr. Musters, the 
 owner of the soil : — 
 
 “ A gentle hill, 1 
 
 Green and of mild declivity, the last — 
 
 As ’t were the cape of a long ridge of such, 
 Save that there was no sea to lave its base, 
 But a most living landscape, and the wave 
 Of wood and corn-fields, and the abodes of 
 
 men 
 
 81 
 
 Scatter’d at intervals, and wreaths of smoke 
 Arising from such rustic roofs ; the hilL 
 Was crown’d with a peculiar diadem 
 Of trees in circular array, so fix’d 
 Not by the sport of nature, but of man.” 
 
 On this spot Byron took his last 
 farewell of Miss Chaworth. 
 
 The estate, which is of about 3200 
 acres in extent, was purchased by 
 the present proprietor in 1861, soon 
 after the death of Col. Wildman. 
 The park, of 880 acres, which once 
 abounded in deer, has been enclosed 
 and divided into farms, except a tract 
 near the house. 
 
 Newstead stands within the bor- 
 ders of 
 
 Sherwood Forest , which originally 
 occupied about one-fifth part of Not- 
 tinghamshire, and extended from 
 Nottingham to Worksop, 20 m., with 
 a breadth of from 5 to 7 m., a tract 
 of about 95,000 acres, of which be- 
 tween 60,000 and 70,000 are now 
 cultivated, though the soil is but 
 poor, producing little beside oats 
 and potatoes. It belonged to the 
 Crown from the reign of Henry II., 
 and was often the scene of royal 
 huntings ; it was the resort of Robin 
 Hood, and reputed traces of his ope- 
 rations are to be found all round 
 Newstead. At 1 m. S. of the abbey, 
 in the grounds of Fcipplewich ■ Hall 
 (H. F. Walter, Esq.), is Bolin Food’s 
 Cave , cut out of the red sandstone 
 rock, with rude attempts at columns 
 and arches ; it is said to have served 
 as a stable. 
 
 Bolin Hood's Hill, and Chair , are 
 to the N. of the park, and farther in 
 the same direction, near Blidworth 
 (where there is an excavated sandstone 
 rock), is Fountain Dale, where Bobin 
 Hood encountered Friar Tuck — 
 
 “ From ten o’clock that very day, 
 
 Until four in the afternoon. 
 
 The curtal Friar kept Fountain Dale 
 Seven long years and more ; 
 
 There was neither lord, nor knight, nor earl 
 Could make him yield before.” 
 
 Not far off is Thieves’ Wood, 
 whence it is a walk of 2J m. to 
 Mansfield, passing on E. Berry Hill 
 (Sir E. S. Walker). 
 
 E 3 
 
82 
 
 Route 13 . — Nottingham to Mansfield . 
 
 3 m. from the Abbey, ami 2 m. j 
 N.W. of Linby Stat., is Annesley 
 Old Hall (J. Chaworth Clusters, 
 Esq.), one of the scats of the an- 
 cient family of Chaworth, for whose 
 heiress, the “Mary” of his poetry, 
 Lord Byron entertained a secret 
 attachment in his youth. It is a 
 brick building, approached by a gate- 
 house, and resembling an old French 
 chAteau. It contains nothing of 
 interest save “the antique orntory,” 
 so beautifully mentioned in Byron's 
 ‘Dream,* os the scene of his inter- 
 view with the lady of liis love — “her 
 who was his destiny.” 
 
 It will bo remembered that an 
 ancestor of the poet, the 5th Lord 
 Byron, killed in a duel, in 17G5, his 
 neighbour, Mr. Chaworth, of this 
 place. 
 
 The ground in the neighbourhood 
 of Annesley is elevated (about GOO ft.), 
 and the summit-level of the rly. is 
 reached at Kirkby Forest^ 2 m., where 
 Bobin Hood’s Hills are pierced by a 
 tunnel. These hills, which are still 
 open and uncultivated, offer pleasant 
 rambles, and wide and l>enutiful views 
 in ever}’ direction. From Coxmoor, 
 on a clear day, the towers of Lincoln 
 Cathedral first catch the eye, while 
 the southern horizon is bounded by 
 the rocks of Charnwood. Nearer 
 home are the woods of Newstead and 
 Annesley in one direction, and those 
 of Hardwick in the other, with the 
 spires and villages of Kirkby and 
 Sutton just at foot. 
 
 13 m. Kirkby Junct. Stat. Here 
 a branch from the Ercw;ish Valley 
 line (Rto. 3) runs in. The restored 
 eh. has Norm, portions. Near it the 
 Erewash takes its rise. 
 
 15 m. Sul ton in Ash field (Stat.) is 
 a large village, with hosiery and 
 silk mills and limeworks. It is 
 picturesquely placed on the border 
 of the Forest, and its ch. is notice- 
 able for its lofty octagonal spire. 
 Between Sutton and Mansfield is a 
 large reservoir, made by the Duke of 
 Portland in 183G, for a water supply 
 
 for the irrigation of his meadows. 
 Its extent is 70 acres. 
 
 17} in. Mansfield (Shit.) (Hotel: 
 Swan), a thriving market-town, of 
 substantially built stone houses (Pop. 
 8000). It stands on the border of 
 Sherwood Forest, and is traversed 
 by the little river Maun, on the 
 banks of which are several silk and 
 cotton mills; there are also lace- 
 tliread mills ; but maltings, iron- 
 foundries, and stone quarries, now 
 give the chief employment. The 
 parish ch. (which has been partially 
 restored) has a Norm, and Dec. tower, 
 surmounted by a low spire. The 
 Market-place lias a handsome Town- 
 hall, and a very elegant Gothic me- 
 morial for Lord George Bcntinek, a 
 well-known Parliamentary leader (d. 
 1848). In the W. part of the town 
 is St. John s ch., built 1S55, with 
 fine tower and spire. 
 
 Mansfield was from very early 
 times a royal manor, and from its 
 vicinity to Sherwood Forest was often 
 the residence of the kings of England, 
 who repaired thither for sport. The 
 ballad of the King (said to be 
 Henry II.) and the Miller of Mans- 
 field commemorates such a visit : — 
 
 14 When as our royal king came home from 
 Nottingham, 
 
 And with bis nobles at Westminster lay, 
 Recounting the sports and pastimes they 
 had taken 
 
 In this late progress all along the way ; 
 Of thorn all, great and small, he did protest 
 The Miller of Mansfield s sport liked he 
 best." 
 
 The Kings Mill, situated in a 
 deep glen (1 m. S.W. of the town, 
 close to the rly. viaduct), is said to 
 have been the scene of the King’s 
 entertainment; but it is more likely 
 that it obtuined its name from being 
 a royal manor. Not far off is the 
 Miller’s house; but both buildings 
 are modern; the ruins of the old 
 mill being supposed to be covered 
 by the waters of a reservoir. The 
 whole neighbourhood is pregnant with 
 traditions of high jicrsonagcs. At 
 
83 
 
 'Route 13 . — Mansfield. — Hardwick Hall. 
 
 HamUeton or Hamilton Hill, to E. 
 of Sutton Stat., Henry II. is said to 
 have lost himself while hunting, and 
 at Low Hardwick , on W. of the line 
 before reaching Sutton, Cardinal Wol- 
 sey rested before his arrival at Leices- 
 ter. Of lower descent in the social 
 scale was Dodsley, the bookseller and 
 author of ‘ The Toy-shop/ who was 
 born at Mansfield in 1703. The 
 Duke’s Flood Dyke between Mans- 
 field and Ollerton is a work interest- 
 ing to the agriculturist. (Ete. 15.) It 
 has been conjectured by some anti- 
 quaries that Mansfield was a Eoman 
 station, from the discovery of coins, 
 &c., and (near Pleasley) of a very 
 perfect foundation of a villa, in the 
 year 1786. 
 
 From Mansfield a very pleasant 
 Excursion may be made into Derby- 
 shire, to Hardwick Hall, and Bol- 
 sover : the whole distance is about 
 16 m. 
 
 Quitting the town by the Chester- 
 field road we have at 1 m. a road on 
 N., leading to Mansfield Woodhouse , 
 a, place remarkable for its quarries 
 of magnesian limestone, which, and 
 not, as commonly supposed, those of 
 Bolsover, furnished the material for 
 Southwell Minster (Ete. 14). The 
 E. E. ch. is a handsome edifice, with 
 lofty spire. At 3 m. we cross the 
 little river Meden and enter Derby- 
 shire, at Pleasley , a village of cotton- 
 mills, with an ancient market-cross. 
 The scenery is very pleasing, a narrow 
 rocky valley traversed by the stream, 
 which at one part is dammed up, so 
 as to form a capacious reservoir. A 
 walk of less than 2 m. up the river 
 bank, passing Newbound Mill, con- 
 ducts to Hardwick Hall. On S., at 
 1J m. distance, is Fever sal, a pretty 
 village on a hill ; the ch. has a good 
 Norm, doorway and some monuments 
 of the Greenhalghs and Molyneuxs. 
 The Manor-house (Dowager Countess 
 of Carnarvon) has very fine gardens. 
 
 Hardwick Hall (Duke of Devon- 
 shire) is a fine Elizabethan mansion 
 
 of great extent, scarcely altered since 
 the day it was built; still, only an 
 example of faded splendour. It is 
 habitable, but destitute of all com- 
 fort, and very little suited for a 
 dwelling of the present time, though 
 the Duke now and then stays here. 
 It was built by Elizabeth Countess 
 of Shrewsbury, better known as 
 “Bess of Hardwick,” she having 
 been born in the old Hall, in 1520, 
 the daughter of John Hardwick, 
 Esq., a man of such moderate for- 
 tune that she received only 40 marks 
 as her marriage-portion. She was 
 four times married : her husbands 
 being Eobert Barlow, Esq., Sir ¥m. 
 Cavendish, the founder of Chats- 
 worth, Sir Wm. St. Lo, and George, 
 Earl of Shrewsbury, whom she sur- 
 vived 17 years. Biographers agree in 
 describing her as “ a proud, selfish, 
 and intriguing woman, a money- 
 lender, a dealer in coals, lead, and 
 timber, who died immensely rich, and 
 yet without a friend.” She was, in- 
 deed, a shrewd and thrifty dame, and 
 managed her own estates, farmed 
 her own land, and enjoyed a rent- 
 roll of 60,000Z. a year. Her greatest 
 passion was for building, as exem- 
 plified in the noble houses that she 
 erected ; and local tradition accounts 
 for this by a prophecy, that she should 
 never die until she ceased to build. 
 Hence her incessant efforts to keep 
 the workmen busy; but at last, in 
 1607, so hard a frost occurred as to 
 render mason-work an impossibility ; 
 and during this frost her death took 
 place. The Hall stands in the midst 
 ot an extensive park, abounding in 
 venerable oaks, now for the most 
 part past their maturity, stagged and 
 gone at the head. The house on the 
 outside looks like a lantern, so great 
 is the number of windows — 
 
 “ Hardwick Hall, 
 
 More window than will,” 
 is a local rhyme. “ You shall have 
 sometimes faire houses so full of glass 
 that one cannot tell where to become 
 to be out of the sun .” — Bacons Essays. 
 
84 
 
 It oute 13 . — Nottingham to Mansfield . 
 
 It is surmounted by ft singular ]x»m- 
 pet of stone-work, perforated with the 
 initials of its foundn ss, K. and is 
 fronted by ft walled court. The inte- 
 rior is graphically describ'd by Ho- 
 race Walpole, who cites Hardwick 
 ns a characteristic specimen of the 
 style of architecture prevailing in 
 the reign of Elizal>eth “Hardwick, 
 still preserved as it was furnished for 
 the reception and imprisonment of 
 the Qiu < n of Scots, is a curious pic- 
 • • ■ .. i -t\ .• . \- -thing 
 
 can exeetd the expense in the bed of 
 state, in the hangings of the same 
 chamUr, and of the coverings for 
 the tables. The first is cloth of 
 gold, cloth of silver, velvets of dif- 
 ferent colours, lace, fringes, and em- 
 broidery. The hangings consist of 
 figure-, large as life, representing the 
 Virtues and the Vice*, embroidered 
 on grounds of white and black velvet. 
 The cloths to cast over the tables are 
 embroidered and eml>osscd with gold 
 on velvets and damasks. The only 
 moveables of nnv taste are the cabi- 
 nets and tables themselves, carved 
 in oak. The chimneys are wide 
 enough for a ball or kitchen, and 
 over the arms arc friezes of many 
 feet deep, with relievos in stucco 
 representing huntings. Here, and 
 in all the great mansions of that 
 age, is a gallery, remarkable only for 
 its extent.'' 
 
 The hall, which is very spacious 
 and lofty, and set round with antlers, 
 contains a Uatitiful statue by Wcst- 
 rnacott of Mary Queen of Scots, Is-ar- 
 ing a I>it»n inscription on the pe- 
 destal. 
 
 In an antecluunl>cr am some cu- 
 rious leather bangings *tainjw d with 
 pattern* in gold. The sisiciuii* coun- 
 cil chamber. 65 ft long. i« hung round 
 with tapestry (which abound* in all 
 | sifts of the liouw ), ami it* walls am 
 surmount'd by a *tncm froze 10 or 
 12 ft. dop, representing a stag-hunt. 
 In the library, which also is hung 
 with tapestry, am portrait* of the 
 Countess of Hhrtwibury : of Itady 
 
 Sandwich (Ann Boyle), by Lely : 
 and of Geoffrey Hudson the dwarf, 
 by Vandyek. The chimney is orna- 
 mented with a stitV relief of Apollo 
 and the Muses. The tapestry in the 
 drawing-room is ancient and curious, 
 representing the story' of Esther ami 
 Ahasucrus. The chapel also contains 
 some exquisite specimens of tapestry 
 and embroidered needlework. In the 
 dining-room is a mantelpiece with the 
 inscription — 14 The conclusion of alle 
 t hinges is to fear God and kcepc his 
 comraandemcntcs." 
 
 The statc-hedroom is a very fine 
 apartment, containing tapestry deli- 
 neating the story* of Ulysses, a state 
 canopy of black velvet, and some in- 
 laid furniture. Queen Mary’s bed 
 was brought hither from tho old 
 house, and is placed in a chamber 
 still hearing over the door the arms 
 of Scotland, and letters 31. K. Tho 
 memory of Mary Stuart is, perhaps, 
 the chief source of interest at Hurd- 
 wick, which was finished and fur- 
 nished to receive her. Hero are 
 preserved the furniture which she 
 used, the cushions of her oratory, 
 the tapestry wrought by her hands. * 
 " The bed has been rich beyond 
 description, and now hangs in costly 
 golden tatters ; the hangings, part 
 of which they say her Majesty 
 worked, are composed of figures as 
 large as life, sewed and embroid- 
 ered on black velvet, white satin, 
 Ac., and represent the virtue* that 
 were necessary to her.*’- — Walpole. 
 Gmy says, "One would think that 
 Mary was just walked down with 
 her guard into the park for half nil 
 hottr.** For 16 years of her capti- 
 vity in England Slnry was entrusted 
 to the charge of the Earl of Shrews- 
 bury, the lord of this mansion, but 
 she pn.*»*ed onlv a small jsvrt of that 
 time here. The gallery extend* 
 along the whole K. front of the 
 building, is magnificently lighted, 
 and covered from top to Initlom 
 with nearly 200 portrait*, which 
 have historical value, though hut 
 
85 
 
 Route 13 . — Bolsover: Castle , &c. 
 
 few deserve to "be mentioned as 
 works of art. Among the most in- 
 teresting are Sir Thos. More ; Lady 
 Jane Grey ; Bp. Gardiner ; James 
 Y. of Scotland and Mary of Guise ; 
 Mary Queen of Scots, a whole-length 
 in black, pale and worn with suffer- 
 ing, taken in the 10th year of her 
 captivity, 1578 ; Queen Elizabeth, 
 with golden hair befrizzled, with a 
 monstrous farthingale, and a gown 
 embroidered with serpents, birds, a 
 sea-horse, &c. ; her minister, Burgh- 
 ley ; the Queen of Bohemia ; 3 differ- 
 ent likenesses of “ Bess of Hardwick, 
 Countess of Shrewsbury,” the builder 
 of the mansion ; also portraits of 2 of 
 her husbands, Cavendish and Shrews- 
 bury; and her grandchild, the un- 
 fortunate Lady Arabella Stuart, who 
 was born and lived here many years 
 under watch and ward. Hobbes, the 
 philosopher, lived as tutor in the Ca- 
 vendish family, and died at Hard- 
 wick set 89, in 1679. 
 
 Near the house are the remains of 
 Old Hardwick Hall, built probably 
 in the reign of Henry VII., and inte- 
 eresting because in it Queen Mary 
 passed a small part of her captivity. 
 It is a ruin, roofless, draped with ivy, 
 and tottering to its fall. The “ Giant’s 
 Chamber,” so called from 2 statues in 
 armour over the fireplace, may still 
 be distinguished. 
 
 A short distance N. of the park is 
 the village of Ault Hucknall , in the 
 small ch. of which Hobbes the phi- 
 losopher is buried ; there are also 
 some Cavendish tombs. 
 
 Turning N.E. we pass the hamlet 
 of Glapwell, once a dependency of 
 Darley Abbey, and reach at 7 m. 
 Scarcliffe ; the restored Norm, and 
 E. E. ch. has a remarkable 13th- 
 centy. monument for a lady and 
 child, probably of the Frecheville fa- 
 mily. In the parish is a spring, 
 called Owlsditch, noted for its greater 
 abundance of water in dry than in 
 wet weather, and locally regarded as 
 one of the wonders of the district. 
 
 9 m. (or 7 m. by the direct road) 
 Bolsover {Inn: Swan), now little more 
 than a village (Pop. 1500), but for- 
 merly a market-town, which grew up 
 around a castle founded by William 
 Peveril, and seized by the crown, t. 
 Hen. II. The town stands on a pre- 
 cipitous bank, overlooking the vale 
 of Scarsdale, and had fortifications of 
 its own, independently of the castle ; 
 several of the watch-towers remain, 
 of Elizabethan date apparently ; and 
 there are also earthworks, ascribed 
 to the Danes. The Ch., Norm, and 
 E. E., has a 13th-centy. carving of 
 the Crucifixion, and another (15th 
 centy.) of the Nativity. In the Ca- 
 vendish chapel are some elaborate 
 monuments to the Cavendish family, 
 and one to the 2nd Duke of New- 
 castle (d. 1691), which is resplendent 
 with variegated marbles. On the 
 monument of Sir Charles Cavendish 
 (d. 1617), which contains the effigies 
 of himself, his wife and 3 sons, is an 
 inscription that deserves perusal. 
 
 Bolsover Castle occupies the site of 
 the Norm, edifice, which was held for 
 King John against the barons, and 
 was one of the possessions of Edmd. 
 Tudor, Earl of Kichmond, but had 
 been suffered to fall into decay in 
 the time of Leland, who speaks of it 
 as a ruin. The manor was granted 
 by Hen. VIII. to Thomas, Duke of 
 Norfolk, on whose attainder it re- 
 verted to the crown ; and in 1552 it 
 was bestowed on Lord Talbot, after- 
 wards Earl of Shrewsbury, and one 
 of the husbands of Bess of Hardwick. 
 By her management, the estate was 
 secured to her second son, Sir Charles 
 Cavendish, in whose descendants in 
 the female line, the Dukes of Port- 
 land, it still remains, and the present 
 mansion was mainly built by her. 
 
 The grandson of the builder, Wil- 
 liam Cavendish, Earl, and afterwards 
 Marquis and Duke, of Newcastle, 
 twice entertained here with great 
 magnificence King Charles I. and 
 his court, at a cost of 4000?. the first 
 
86 
 
 Route 13 . — Nottingham to Mansfield . 
 
 time, and of 15,000/. the second, be- 
 ing, according to Clarendon, “such 
 an excess of feasting as had scarce 
 over been known in England before." 
 On one of these occasions, 1034, Ben 
 Jouson’s masque of ‘ Love’s 'Wel- 
 come * was got up in the most sump- 
 tuous manner, and performed by the 
 courtiers. Bolsover was taken by 
 the Parliamentary forces in 1G44, 
 and was after wan Is saved from de- 
 struction by a younger brother of the 
 Karl, who bought it in. From the 
 date of its sale its history as a for- 
 tress ceases, anil it became instead 
 one of the most splendid residences 
 in the land. 
 
 The present castle or castellated 
 mansion was begun by Bess of Hard- 
 wick, and finished in 1013, by Sir C. 
 Cavendish, her son. (Visitors are 
 allowed to walk in the grounds, but 
 the interior is private except on spe- 
 cial application.) It stands on a fine 
 elevated and wooded terrace, from 
 whence there is a splendid view over 
 Scarsdale, Hardwick Hall being con- 
 spicuous to the S.W. It is a square 
 castellated edifice, 4 stories in height, 
 with turrets at each corner, except 
 the N.E., where there is a high 
 tower, on the site of Peveril’s Norm, 
 keep. The interior consists of noble 
 rooms, with wainscoted walls, highly 
 ornamented chiinney-pieces, and ceil- 
 ings carved and gilded. A flight of 
 steps leads up to the door, which is 
 surmounted by the Cavendish arms, 
 and leads into a vaulted hall. Be- 
 yond is the pillar dining-room, so 
 called from a column round which 
 the table is arranged. A stone stair- 
 case conducts to the Shir Chamber, 
 or drawing-room, a room 40 ft. long, 
 richly adorn oil, and filled with old 
 furniture. The roof is blue, orna- 
 mented with golden stars, and the 
 upper part of the walls is adorned with 
 large pictures of Me 12 Camara, copied 
 from thone that hung in the Weet- 
 minster Star Chamber in the time of 
 Charles I. This room now serves as 
 a museum and library, in which the 
 
 Etruscan collection of Mrs. Hamilton 
 Gray is arranged. An adjoining 
 email room, most beautifully roofed 
 with marble, was the boudoir of the 
 literary Duchess of Newcastle. 
 
 On the terrace is the picturesquo 
 ivy and lichen clad ruin of a superb 
 mansion iu the late Elizabethan 
 style, begun by Sir Charles Caven- 
 dish, and added to by his son, who 
 also erected a ltiding-houso, so fre- 
 quently mentioned in his work on 
 Horsemanship, which contains some 
 excellent views of Bolsover. Iu the 
 reign of Geo. I. Bolsover ceased to 
 be a residence of the Cavendishes, as 
 the heiress had become Couutess of 
 Oxford, and the whole of these later 
 buildings were dismantled, but the 
 pseudo-Norman castle has been ever 
 since kept in repair. The castle Wiis 
 formerly occupied by the Rev. J. Ha- 
 milton Gray, by whom it was finished 
 in tho E. E. style, with a profusion of 
 English und foreign ancient carvings ; 
 so that it is an admirable specimen of 
 nil ancient English mansion adapted 
 to the requirements of modern life. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Bolsover 
 are extensive quarries, from which 
 the stone for the New Houses of Par- 
 liament was selected, under the idea 
 that they had furnished the excellent 
 material for Southwell Minster; but 
 this has turned out to be a costly 
 mistake. 
 
 The return to Mansfield may be 
 varied by a detour westward 2 m. to 
 Suiton Hall (Rev. G. H. Arkwright), 
 a Corinthian edifice, on the site of 
 an old scat of the Lakes, Earls of 
 Scarsdale. In 1G43 Sutton was gal- 
 lantly held by Lord De incourt for 
 the King, but he eventually had to 
 yield to a superior force under Col. 
 Gell. A legend is told of one of tho 
 ancient Isolds of Sutton who went 
 to the Holy Lind, und, being very 
 anxious to return home, fell asleep, 
 and awoke in the porch of Sutton 
 ch. Here he found that his wife, 
 whom ho hud left at home, hnd 
 given him up for lost, and was that 
 
87 
 
 Route 14. — Newark to 
 
 very day to be married again. The 
 Ch. contains a memorial window and 
 monuments to the Arkwright ami 
 the Scarsdale families. Hence it is 
 9 m. to Mansfield ; or if preferred, 
 the rly. can be joined at Chesterfield 
 or at Clay Cross, each being about 
 5 m. distant. (Rte. 4.) 
 
 ROUTE 14. 
 
 NEWARK TO MANSFIELD, BY 
 SOUTHWELL. 
 
 MIDLAND E AIL WAY. 18| m. 
 
 Shortly after leaving Newark the 
 line crosses the Trent near Averham 
 (Rte. 11), and runs at the foot of the 
 range of high ground on which the 
 large and pleasant village of Upton 
 is situated; the view S. over the 
 vale in which the river pursues its 
 winding course is very agreeable. 
 
 3 m. Bolleston Junct. Stat. (Rte. 
 11). The line now turns N., ascends 
 the valley of the Greet, and reaches 
 at 
 
 6J m. Southwell (Stat.). The 
 town consists of 5 distinct portions, 
 with open spaces between, and thus 
 occupies a very large space in pro- 
 portion to its population (3000). 
 {Inn : Saracen’s Head, an old house, 
 where, tradition says, Charles I. 
 put himself in the hands of the 
 Scots’ Commissioners, and was by 
 them led to their camp at Kelham, 
 opposite Newark.) Beside the well- 
 known Minster, there is a handsome 
 district ch. with spire 150 ft. high, 
 at West Thorpe. The streets of the 
 
 Mansfield. — Southwell. 
 
 High Town, or Southwell proper, are 
 well paved, and very clean and quiet, 
 the aspect of the whole being in 
 strict accordance with its position as 
 a small cathedral city. 
 
 Southwell has been fixed on by 
 some early antiquaries as the site of 
 the Roman station Ad Pontem, but 
 this is now considered to be repre- 
 sented by Farndon, on the Trent, 
 4 m. S.E. Camden says, “ That this 
 | Southwell] is that city which Bede 
 called Tio-vul-Fingacester I the ra- 
 ther believe, because those things 
 which he relates ofPaulinus baptiz- 
 ing in the Trent are always said to 
 have been done here by the private 
 history of this ch.” The Minster is 
 supposed to have been founded by 
 Paulinus, about 630, under the 
 auspices of Edwin of Northumbria, 
 and down to the year 1841 it be- 
 longed to the diocese of York. It 
 became a collegiate church shortly 
 after the Norman conquest — even 
 before, according to some writers — 
 and many of its prebends were 
 founded by Northern primates. In 
 1540 it was surrendered to the 
 Crown, but the chapter was shortly 
 after re-established, and endowed 
 with a large part of its old posses- 
 sions. In 1552 it was again dis- 
 solved, and its property granted to 
 Dudley, Duke of Northumberland. 
 His attainder caused it to revert to 
 the Crown. Mary re-established the 
 chapter, and it remained substan- 
 tially unchanged until reduced to 
 an establishment of three honorary 
 canons, in accordance with the re- 
 commendations of the Ecclesiastical 
 Commissioners, 1836-1841. Several 
 eminent Churchmen have been pre- 
 bends of Southwell, among whom 
 may be named Bps. Hutton of Dur- 
 ham, Sanderson of Lincoln, and 
 Denison of Salisbury; as also Mr. 
 Mompesson of Eyam (Rte. 8). 
 
 The Minster , which is the finest 
 ecclesiastical structure in the county, 
 stands in a well-kept close, the main 
 ! approach to which is by an ivy- 
 
88 
 
 Route 14 . — Newark to Mansfield. 
 
 mantled gatehouse facing the W. 
 front. It is a cruciform ch., 30G ft. 
 long, with transept, 122 ft. It lias a 
 central and two western towers (be- 
 tween which is a noble Perp. W. 
 window of 7 lights), and, though on 
 a smaller scale, bears a striking re- 
 semblance to York Minster. The 
 nave, the transepts, and the towers 
 are Norm., of the early part of the 
 12th cent., but the AV. towers, which 
 are of 7 stages, show Dec. and Perp. 
 alterations. The central tower is of 
 but 3 stages, of which the middle is 
 occupied by an interlacing arcade, 
 partly blocked. The choir, its aisles, 
 and its small E. transepts, are Early 
 Eng., and among the best examples 
 of the style. The E. end has two 
 tiers of lancet-windows. The organ- 
 screen and the stalls are later Dec., 
 and particularly good. Notice also 
 the brass eagle lectern and two 
 stately candlesticks formerly belong- 
 ing to Newstead Priory ; they were 
 found in the lake there, sold as old 
 metal, and being accidentally seen 
 in a shop at Nottingham by the Rev. 
 S. li. Kaye, a prebend of Southwell, 
 were by him purchased, and pre- 
 sented to the church in 1805. The 
 eagle stands on a ball, in which 
 when opened were found concealed 
 deeds relating to the priory. 
 
 The N. transept contains the altar- 
 tomb, with effigy, of Abp. Sandys of 
 York, who died at Southwell, July 
 10, 1588. The S. transept, which is 
 entered by a doorway with segmental 
 arch, is of 3 stages, the 2 middle 
 lighted by circular-headed windows, 
 with dog-tooth and billet mouldings, 
 and the upper stage by round win- 
 dows, divided from the others by 
 stringcourses. The windows are 
 tilled in with stained glass, as is also 
 the E. window of the choir. The 
 triforial arches are large, those of the 
 clerestory small. The gable end of 
 this transept has a curious pattern in 
 relievo, not unlike that at Kelso 
 Abbey. 
 
 The nave has a flat wooden ceiling, 
 
 with 5 recessed arches and elabo- 
 rate moulding and interlacing arcade, 
 and the aisles are groined in stone ; 
 they are separated from each other 
 by 7 massive circular piers, from 
 which spring round-headed arches 
 with billet moulding, and from the 
 gallery above there springs another 
 series with square piers. The clere- 
 story is lighted by circular, and the S. 
 aisle by Perp. windows, above which, 
 externally, runs a stringcourse ; some 
 very small lights are inserted be- 
 tween the latter and the corbel- 
 table. Notice the Norm, string- 
 course carried along the whole of 
 the exterior, from the transepts to 
 the western towers. The N. porch 
 is very fine, and has a deeply- 
 recessed Norm, doorway. 
 
 The octagonal Chapterhouse , N. 
 of the choir, is Early Dec., with a 
 fine double door and good window- 
 tracery; it somew’hat resembles that 
 of York, being surrounded by stalls, 
 whose bands rest on stone shafts; 
 but it has no central column. The 
 foliage of the capitals is particularly 
 graceful. 
 
 To the E. of the church is the 
 Residentiary House, a plain red 
 brick building. Adjoining, on S., 
 are the very picturesque remains of 
 the Archbishop' s Palace. The Nor- 
 thern primates had a dwelling here 
 at a very early period : indeed, yElfric 
 died at Southwell in 1050; so did 
 Gerard, the 2nd Norm. Archbishop, 
 in 1108. Ho died whilst sleeping in 
 the garden after dinner, and as a 
 book on astronomy was found beside 
 him, he was denounced as a magi- 
 cian, and denied burial in his cathe- 
 dral. A portion of the building is 
 used as a dwelling-house, but much 
 of the site of the palace is now oc- 
 cupied ns a market-garden. The 
 edifice was erected by Abp Thoresby, 
 c. 13G0, but greatly altered and 
 added to by Wolsey. The walls are 
 all Dec., with Perp. window’s inserted ; 
 there is a good bold roll moulding, as 
 a string along the walls, of Dec. cha- 
 
89 
 
 Boute 15 . — Mansfield to Worlcsop. 
 
 racter, and some curious closets in the 
 walls and buttresses. There are 
 several Perp. fireplaces and chimneys 
 (the lower parts Dec., the upper 
 Perp.), some of which are engraved 
 in Parker’s £ Domestic Architec- 
 ture.’ Among the armorial bearings 
 are those of Cardinal Kempe, in 
 the reign of Henry VI., whose muni- 
 ficence was so great that it was the 
 subject of a monkish rhyme : — 
 
 “ In Suthwelle manerium fecit pretiosum, 
 Mnltis artificibus valde sumptuosum.” 
 
 The archbishops had no less than 4 
 parks at Southwell and its neigh- 
 bourhood. One of these, Norwood , 
 1 m. N.W., still exists, and is occu- 
 pied by the Marquis of Carmarthen ; 
 it contains a very aged tree, known 
 as Cludd’s Oak. 
 
 To the E. of Southwell, on Bur- 
 gage Green, an open space with fine 
 trees, is the Manor House, the resi- 
 dence of Lord Byron and his mother 
 during his boyhood. Even as a youth 
 his passion for arms exhibited itself, 
 and the furniture of his chamber 
 was much cut and slashed — a circum- 
 stance subsequently turned to good 
 account by the auctioneer, who em- 
 bellished the matter by asserting the 
 havoc to have been made with “ the 
 identical sword with which a former 
 Lord Byron killed Mr. Chaworth.” 
 
 8J m. Kirldington and Edingley 
 (Stat.). These are both mere vil- 
 lages, standing N. and S. of the line. 
 Kirklington has a modern castellated 
 Hall (Mrs. Whetham), with very 
 extensive grounds. Edingley is only 
 remarkable for the deplorable con- 
 dition of its little ch. 
 
 11 m. Farnsfield (Stat.). A clean, 
 pleasant-looking village, on the verge 
 of the so-called Fmest, which from 
 hence to Mansfield is little more than 
 an alternation of wide stretches of 
 heath with occasional patches of 
 oats or potatoes. The Ch., rebuilt 
 except the tower, is a handsome 
 
 Perp. structure, with a chastely- 
 decorated interior. Hexgrave, one of 
 the archiepiscopal parks, was in this 
 parish ; it is now a farm. 
 
 14 m. Bainworlh (Stat.). This is 
 a hamlet of Blid worth, consisting of 
 little more than the Bobin Hood Inn , 
 and one or two farms. It stands on 
 the Rain worth Water, a tributary of 
 the Maun, amid pleasant scenery, 
 which, though not particularly strik- 
 ing, will well repay a few hours’ 
 ramble. 
 
 18 i m. Mansfield (Stat.). (Rte. 13.) 
 
 ROUTE 15. 
 
 MANSFIELD TO WORKSOP, BY SHER- 
 WOOD FOREST. 
 
 BY ROAD. 12 m. 
 
 A line of rly. is in progress be- 
 tween these two places, running 
 somewhat to the W. of the coach 
 road, and thus losing much of the 
 charm of the journey ; for the road 
 is, in great part, through a group 
 of noble parks, which, from their 
 having originally belonged to former 
 dukes, have fixed upon this dis- 
 trict the well - known name of 
 the “ Dukery.” The Duke of Nor- 
 folk, however, sold Worksop, to 
 another ducal family, and the 
 Dukes of Kingston are extinct* 
 succeeded in the possession of 
 Thoresby by their descendant in the 
 female line, Earl Manvers. The 
 Dukes of Portland and Newcastle 
 remain at Welbeck and Clumber.. 
 This aristocratic territory occupies 
 that part of the area of Sherwood 
 where some traces of that ancient 
 forest are still preserved. 
 
90 
 
 'Route 15 . — Mansfield to Worlcsop. 
 
 Leaving Mansfield, where the 
 lofty viaduct of the rly. is a con- 
 spicuous feature, wo pass at 1J m. 
 some distance on E. of Mansfield 
 Woodhouse , famous for its quarries 
 of excellent building stone. The 
 ch. is E. E., with W. tower and 
 octangular spire. There are traces 
 of a camp, supposed to be Roman, 
 at a short distance, and Roman 
 remains have been often found. 
 
 [At 2J m. a road on E. leads by 
 Clipstone and Edwinstowe to Oiler- 
 ton (7 m.). Clipstone is an estate 
 of the Duke of Portland, and the 
 road to it runs by the side of a 
 canal of irrigation, formed by the 
 Duke, at an expense of 80,0001, 
 and called the Duke’s Flood Dyke; 
 by which the stream of the Maun, 
 augmented by the sewerage and 
 washings of the town of Mansfield, 
 is distributed by minor cuts, tiled 
 drains, and sluice-gates along the 
 slopes below it ; and has converted 
 a previously barren valley, whose 
 sides were a rabbit-warren over- 
 grown with heath and gorse, and 
 its bottom a swamp producing 
 hassocks and rushes, into a most 
 productive tract of meadow and 
 pasture land, yielding three crops of 
 grass annually. The river is diverted 
 near the vale-head and led along 
 the hillside, and the bottom has been 
 drained. The canal extends to near 
 Ollerton, about 7 m. from Mans- 
 field, the latter portion being applied 
 to the lands of Earl Manvers. 
 
 These famous meadows have been 
 often quoted, together with those 
 near Edinburgh, in sanitary and 
 agricultural discussions. The canal 
 water, after depositing all its more 
 valuable contents upon the land, 
 runs off through the bottom of the 
 valley in a stream ns clear as crystal, 
 and full of trout, though angling is 
 forbidden. The domain of Clipstone 
 exhibits a specimen of good fann- 
 ing, and is well worth a visit from 
 all who are interested in agricultural 
 improvements. 
 
 A little to the S. of Clipstone are 
 the scanty remains, consisting of 
 rubble walls, of King John's Palace , 
 still called “The Kings House,” 
 and long possessed by the Slirews- 
 buries. Between Clipstone and the 
 Warsop road, about a mile from 
 each, is the Parliament Oak, under 
 which Edward I. held a great 
 council in 1292. It is now, how- 
 ever, reduced to a mere stump. 
 
 Midway between Clipstone and 
 Edwinstowe a beautiful Gothic arch- 
 way, called the Dukes Folly , serves 
 as a sort of lodge, the upper part 
 being used as a free school. It is 
 in the Perp. style, the mouldings, 
 window tracery, and sculpture well 
 executed ; while the niches are filled 
 appropriately with statues of Robin 
 flood, Little John, Maid Marian, 
 Allan a Dale, Friar Tuck, Cceur-de- 
 Lion, and King John, with a Latin 
 inscription from Horace. A broad 
 turf ride leads from this lodge to 
 Welbeck, passing through 
 
 Birkland Forest , the wildest and 
 most natural portion of Sherwood 
 Forest — a very paradise of picnic- 
 holders; whose privileges, however, 
 have been curtailed, owing to somo 
 mischief having been perj>etrated by 
 foolish holiday-makers. There are 
 no restrictions whatever in Earl Man- 
 vers’ neighbouring forest of Bilhaugh. 
 “ An enclosure act has divided 
 amongst farmers the land which till 
 recently gave some idea of the old 
 forest, and hero and there a scanty 
 patch of a few acres alone remains to 
 call to the memory of older inha- 
 bitants its former condition. But if 
 you would know what the forest may 
 have been, you may still find a beau- 
 tifully undulating range of land, 
 rich in furze and heather, stretching 
 away from the first milestone on the 
 Houthwcll road towards Kufford 
 Abbey, where the partridge has been 
 hunted witli the hawk within the 
 memory of man.” — A. W. W. Birk- 
 1 land (so called from the full-grown 
 
91 
 
 Route 15 . — Warsop. — JVelbecle Parle. 
 
 birches) has been a good deal 
 thinned, and very few of the real old 
 giants are left. The gaps, however, 
 are being r filled up with relays of 
 oaks and Spanish chestnuts. The 
 best route for the pedestrian is 
 from Olipstone Lodge, up the ride 
 into the forest, and thence, in a N.W. 
 direction, to Gleadthorpe Lodge, 
 where the Warsop and Ollerton road 
 is crossed: Between Budby and Ed- 
 winstowe is to be found the Major 
 Oak , which has a circumference of 
 30 feet, and that of the branches, at 
 its greatest extent, of 240 feet ; seven 
 people are said to have dined in it 
 at once. Robin Hood's Larder is 
 another fine example of old forest 
 life, which will hold a dozen people 
 inside. It is sometimes called “ The 
 Slaughter Tree,” from the fact that 
 Hooton, a noted sheepstealer, used 
 to hang up the carcases of the sheep 
 inside. 
 
 Edwinstowe , 2 m. W. of Ollerton, 
 with its pretty church, is a charming 
 specimen of a forest village. The 
 visitor who is fond of wood-carving 
 will find here a self-taught artist of 
 considerable genius.] 
 
 3| m. Sookholm, a small village, 
 with an ancient chapel dependent on 
 Warsop. Nettleworth Hall (Col. B. 
 H. Fitzherbert). 
 
 5 m. Warsop , or Market Warsop, 
 though not now a market town, is 
 celebrated for its horse and cattle 
 fairs. The tourist must not confound 
 this name with Worksop, or, as com- 
 monly pronounced, Wussup. A little 
 beyond it the road crosses the river 
 Meden, and farther still a high 
 mount called Cuckney Hill, where 
 is a fine view to N. and E. over the 
 woods of the Dukery. 
 
 7 m. Cuckney has a handsome 
 Perp. cli., with Norm, doorway, and 
 once possessed a castle, of which 
 only the site remains. 
 
 At 8 m. a road on 1. turns off into 
 Welbeck Park , the seat of the Duke 
 
 of Portland, not open to tourists. It 
 is ornamented by a large lake, and 
 is remarkable for its woods, and for 
 some of the finest oak-trees that are 
 to be met with in Great Britain — veri- 
 table survivors of Sherwood Forest. 
 Near the entrance to the Abbey 
 stands the Greendale Oak, once so 
 large that a carriage-road ran through 
 its trunk, but now in the extremity of 
 vegetable age, with a mere trace 
 of vitality, and supported wholly by 
 props ; it is said to be more than 700 
 years old. On the side next Worksop 
 Manor (N.) are two more vigorous 
 stems, but stag-headed, called “ The 
 Porters/’ because standing on either 
 side a gateway. Not far off is the 
 Duke’s Walking-stick, 111 ft. high. 
 The park has an extent of 2283 acres, 
 and is 8 m. in circuit. The residence 
 scarcely deserves the name of Abbey ; 
 it is a large battlemented house with 
 sash-windows, lying rather low and 
 near the margin of the lake. 
 
 There are some fine pictures, viz. — 
 Thomas Wentworth, Lord Strafford, 
 in armour, full-length and fine ; 
 Lucy Percy, Countess of Carlisle ; 
 Sir Kenelm and Lady Digby, with 
 2 sons, and William Cavendish, 
 Duke of Newcastle ; Archbishop 
 Laud ; Philip Herbert, Earl of Pem- 
 broke ; all by Vandyck ; — a Senator 
 of Antwerp, and Moses in the Bul- 
 rushes, Murillo; St. John in the 
 Wilderness, Caracci ; a Holy Family, 
 Raphael; Christ, and St. John with 
 the Lamb, Guido. Several family 
 portraits : Lord Rich. Cavendish, 
 Lord Titchfield, Mr. C. Cavendish, 
 Sir Joshua Reynolds ; Admiral 
 Tromp, Corn. Jansen. Several hunt- 
 ing-pieces attributed to Snyders , and 
 some to Rubens. 
 
 Welbeck Abbey, which was 
 founded, t. Hen. II., by Thomas de 
 Cuckeney, was of the Premonstra- 
 tensian order. At the Dissolution 
 it was sold to the Whalleys, one of 
 whom parted with it to the Caven- 
 dishes, who built the present house 
 in 1604, in which parts of the old 
 
92 
 
 Route 15 . — Mansfield to Worlcsojp. 
 
 structure are incorporated. The inte- 
 rior is Jacobean, but badly executed, 
 the fan tracery and pendants of some 
 of the chief rooms being formed of 
 stucco on basket work. (The same 
 may be noticed in the music-room 
 at Lullingstone, of about the same 
 date ; see Handbook for Kent.) Ben 
 Jonson’s interlude of ‘ Love’s Wel- 
 come ’ was performed here when 
 Charles I. was entertained by 
 Cavendish, afterwards Duke of New- 
 castle. 
 
 The stables and riding-house were 
 built by the same Duke. He was 
 the author of the work on ‘Horse- 
 manship,’ the stanch supporter of 
 Charles I., and the husband of a 
 most eccentric duchess. 
 
 Adjoining Welbeck, on N., con- 
 necting it with Worksop town, and 
 skirted by a road on the 1., is Work- 
 sop Manor , once the property of the 
 Duke of Norfolk, but purchased in 
 1840 by the Duke of Newcastle for 
 350,000/. The house, a vast Italian 
 pile, was built on the site of a 
 former mansion, which contained 
 500 rooms, and was burned down in 
 1761, with all its gallery of paint- 
 ings and statues, to the value of 
 100,000/. The Duke of Newcastle 
 pulled it down and converted the 
 stables into the present moderate- 
 sized residence, which is now let 
 to Lord Foley. The phrk stretched 
 nearly up to the town of Worksop, 
 but has been partly enclosed and 
 ploughed up, and is let in small lots. 
 It still retains some noble avenues. 
 Worksop Manor is held by the tenure 
 of providing a glove for the king’s 
 right hand at the coronation and sup- 
 porting it while he holds the sceptre 
 — a tenure shifted to this place from 
 Famham Royal, near Windsor. 
 
 12 m. Worksop (Hotel: Lion), a 
 clean country town of two principal 
 streets at right angles, composed 
 of red-brick houses. It has a large 
 trade in malting, and formerly “ had 
 a great produce of liquorice.” There 
 are also some iron-foundries for agri- 
 
 cultural implements, and many people 
 are employed in making packing- 
 cases for the Sheffield manufacturers. 
 
 In the suburb called Radford , on 
 the E. of the town, is a picturesque 
 gateway in the Dec. and Perp. 
 styles, a relic of the Priory founded 
 by William do Lovetot in 1103; it 
 is now used as a school ; notice the 
 figures and sculptures on the S. face. 
 Close by is a cross, a modern small 
 pillar on a 7-step ancient base. 
 
 The Norm, nave of the Priory cli., 
 with the aisles restored in the Perp. 
 style, now serves as the parish Ch. 
 There are 2 W. towers, surmounted 
 by modem battlements and pin- 
 nacles, and the E. end has a good 
 triple lancet, with circular windows 
 above. The S. porch has an elabo- 
 rate groined roof. The ch. contains 
 many monuments, particularly of the 
 Lovetot s and the Furnivals, ancestors 
 of the Talbots, Earls of Shrews- 
 bury, also buried here, from whom 
 the house of Howard inherited their 
 vast midland and northern estates. 
 
 A short distance E. of the present 
 ch. is the ruined Lady Chapel ; it 
 it is very fine E. E. work, and for- 
 merly contained many of the monu- 
 ments now placed in the church. 
 
 The Roman Catholic chapel at the 
 top of Park-street was erected by 
 the Duke of Norfolk at a cost of 
 3000/., and contains some good 
 carved stall-work, a carved altar, 
 and painted windows. 
 
 3 m. E. of Worksop, and to the N. 
 of the Manchester, Sheffield, and 
 Lincolnshire Rly., is Osberton (G. S. 
 Foljambe, Esq.). “It stands be- 
 tween the river Ryton and the 
 Chesterfield Canal, and has a por- 
 tico of the Ionic order. The estate 
 contains an abundance of thriving 
 plantations of oak, larch, and other 
 | useful timber trees ; through the 
 whole runs a rivulet, expanding in 
 front of the house, and losing itself 
 among the woods, so as to appear 
 a river of considerable magnitude. 
 
93 
 
 ’Route 16 . — Newark to Worksop. 
 
 “ The surrounding scenery is syl- 
 van, the foreground interspersed with 
 noble oak, elm, and beech trees, 
 occasionally standing alone, but 
 sometimes in groups ; and is backed 
 by extensive woods that contain 
 spruce firs of the largest dimensions, 
 which beautifully feather to the 
 ground.” 
 
 Less than 3 m. W. of Worksop is 
 the Duke of Newcastle’s colliery 
 at Shireoahs , with rly. stat. The 
 late Duke commenced sinking in 
 1854, through the Permian and 
 magnesian measures, believing that 
 the coal would be found to be lying 
 immediately under them. After pro- 
 ceeding about 200 feet, coal was found, 
 and the top hard measure reached in 
 1859, at a depth of 515 yards. About 
 600 to 700 tons are now raised every 
 day from the pits, a successful at- 
 tempt, founded on good geological 
 calculation, to extend the area of our 
 coal-producing basins. A colliery 
 village has sprung up, with a Pop. 
 of at least 2000, and for them the 
 late Duke erected a handsome Ch., 
 in the E. E. style, the first stone of 
 which was laid by the Prince of 
 Wales. The Duke died very shortly 
 after, and the chancel has been 
 elaborately decorated, with reredos, 
 painted windows, &c., to his memory. 
 
 EOUTE 16. 
 
 NEWARK TO WORKSOP, BY OLLER- 
 TON. [THORESBY, CLUMBER.] 
 
 BY ROAD. 21 m. 
 
 Crossing the Trent by a hand- 
 some modern bridge at 2J m. N. of i 
 
 Newark, we reach Kelham , where 
 the head-quarters of the Scots were 
 fixed when Charles I. placed himself 
 in their hands. The view from the 
 bridge is very fine. On 1. are the 
 grounds of Kelham Park (J. H. 
 Manners - Sutton, Esq.), reaching 
 down to the river, and the stream 
 itself, with its many windings and 
 broad clear flood, makes a noble 
 appearance. The neat small village 
 is a mere appendage to the Hall, and 
 the most striking object in the ch. 
 is the monumental chapel of the 
 former lords. The white marble 
 effigies of the last Lord Lexington 
 (Robert Sutton, d. 1723) and his 
 wife are singularly placed back to 
 back. 
 
 Kelham Park on 1. was the seat of 
 the Suttons, Lords Lexington. The 
 house has been rebuilt by Scott 
 (after a fire had destroyed the old 
 house, restored by the same archi- 
 tect). It is now a fine Gothic build- 
 ing. The entrance - gateway, with 
 pillars of polished granite, is particu- 
 larly good. On W. is the road to 
 Southwell and Mansfield (Rte. 14). 
 
 5 m. On E. is Caunton , on the 
 banks of a small stream called the 
 Willoughby. The ch. has a good 
 Perp. tower. 
 
 There are some old mansions in 
 the parish, viz. Dean Hall, an Eliza- 
 bethan house, and Beesthorpe Hall, 
 once the seat of the ancient family 
 of Bristow, now the residence of 
 W. Cooke, Esq. 
 
 Higher up the Willoughby are 
 Majplebeck , a retired hamlet, and be- 
 yond it Eahring, with a ch. that for- 
 merly belonged to Bufford Abbey, 
 and of which Mompesson, of Eyam, 
 became rector. The soil in this 
 neighbourhood is a stiff clay, on 
 which a coarse description of hops is 
 abundantly grown. 
 
 8J m. Knesall , once a part of the 
 possessions of the Earls of Chester. 
 
 11 m. Welloiv, a large village, 
 where chair-making is extensively 
 carried on. The ch. is a mean 
 
94 
 
 Route 1C . — Newark to Worksop. 
 
 building, mainly of brick. To the 
 E. of tlie village is the site of Jordan 
 Castle (now occupied by a farm- 
 house), built by Jordan Foliot, t. 
 Hen. II. 
 
 l£ m. 1., on the verge of Sherwood, 
 is Rufford , a village only remarkable 
 for its noble scat of Rufford Abbey 
 (Henry Savile, Esq.), an extensive 
 edifice, in which are included some 
 portions of the Cistercian monastery 
 founded in 1148 by Hugh Fitz-ralph 
 and his wife. Leland visited Ruf- 
 ford, and says of it, “ On the other 
 side of Rume Water is a village 
 commonly called Ruford for Rume- 
 ford, a quarter of a mile beyond 
 which stood a-late Rumford Abbey 
 of white monks. The Earl of Shrews- 
 byri hath it now of the king for 
 exchange of land of his in Ireland.” 
 The hall is Elizabethan, and contains 
 some old paintings, chief! v family 
 portraits. 
 
 The well-wooded park (which af- 
 forded a shelter to Mr. Mompesson 
 of Eyam, — Rte. 8) includes an 
 area of about GOO acres and a fine 
 lake. The approach from the W. is 
 by a very handsome lodge. The estate 
 belonged to the Saviles, Baronets 
 and Marquises of Halifax, who ob- 
 tained it by an heiress from the 
 Talbots. The heiress of the Saviles 
 married an Earl of Scarborough, and 
 the estate was for some time settled 
 on a younger branch of that family. 
 
 12 m. Ollerton {Inn: Hop-pole), a 
 very small, but neat market town 
 (Pop. under 1000), pleasantly placed 
 amid hop-grounds. The ch. is but a 
 chapel of ease to Edwinstowe, and is 
 in nowise remarkable. A delightful 
 ramble of about 8 m. may be made 
 hence to Mansfield, passing Edwin- 
 stowe and Clipstone (Rte. 15), 
 
 Leaving Ollerton, wo cross the 
 little river Maun, and the road hence 
 to Worksop (9 m.) is carried through 
 the midst of Sherwood Forest, or 
 rather through that part of it where 
 trees of most ancient growth have 
 
 been preserved. This remnant of 
 the forest, including the woods of Bil k- 
 land and Bilhaugli near Edwinstowe, 
 is estimated at 3 J m. long by 2 broad. 
 It is the rendezvous of all the picnic- 
 makers of the county, and is full of 
 the most charming forest scenery. 
 “ A thousand years, ten thousand 
 tempests, lightnings, winds, and 
 wintry violence, have all flung their 
 utmost force on these trees, and 
 there they stand, trunk after trunk, 
 scattered, hollow, grey, gnarled, 
 stretching out their bare, sturdy 
 arms, or their mingled foliage and 
 ruin — a life in death.” — Howitt. 
 
 On the E. of the road, is the noble 
 park of Thoresby , 10 m. in circuit. 
 There is a carriage-road a mile loDg 
 through the midst of a superb grove 
 of oaks, almost all of great age, stag- 
 headed and gnarled, and affording 
 many fine subjects for the artist’s 
 pencil, by the Stag Gates, to Thoresby 
 Hall , the magnificent seat of Earl 
 Manvers. It was built by the last 
 Duke of Kingston in 1745, but has 
 been rebuilt by Lord Manvers in the 
 Elizabethan style, from designs by 
 Salvin. The beautiful grounds are 
 embellished with a fine lake formed 
 by the Meden. The bust of Pascal 
 Paoli the Corsican, who resided here 
 for some time, is still preserved. 
 The old mansion, in which Lady 
 Mary Wortley Montagu was born, 
 was destroyed by fire in 1745. 
 
 For forest scenery, its grand feature, 
 the park of Thoresby can scarce bo 
 surpassed in England. There are 
 some monuments to the Pierreponts 
 and some painted glass in Perlethorpe 
 (anc. Peverilthorpe) ch. within the 
 precincts of the park. 
 
 Opposite the park, at 15 m., is 
 Budby , a model village of Gothic 
 cottages, built by the first Earl 
 Manvers in 1807. The inlet of 
 Thoresby Lake, which is more than a 
 mile in length, and is formed by an 
 artificial expanse of the river Meden 
 
Boute 17 . — Newark to Doncaster. 
 
 95 
 
 as it flows through the park, here 
 crosses the road. 
 
 Immediately adjoining, and to the 
 N. of Thoresby, is Clumber Park 
 (D. of Newcastle), laid out, planted, 
 and in fact created, by the great- 
 great - grandfather of the present 
 Duke. The house, though of stone, 
 is not imposing externally, from want 
 of height; but it has comfort and 
 splendour within, and contains a small 
 collection of good paintings, princi- 
 pally of the Netherlands school. 
 
 Among the most remarkable are 
 — Vandyck, Rinaldo awakened by 
 the Mermaid (Tasso). Sir Godfrey 
 Kneller , George II. and Queen Caro- 
 line, whole-length and good. Murillo , 
 the Virgin in the Clouds, surrounded 
 by Angels, standing on a half-moon. 
 Teniers , the Brickmakers. G. 
 Poussin , a fine Landscape. Rubens , 
 two heads of Females, tasting and 
 smelling. Rembrandt , Portrait of 
 
 a man, with a paper in his hand ; 
 excellent. Guido , Artemisia. Cor- 
 
 reggio (?), Sigismunda weeping over 
 the heart of Tancred ; full of expres- 
 sion, but the shadows have darkened. 
 
 Small Dining-room. — Battoni , a 
 Holy Family. Van Vos , Fruit and 
 Flowers, very beautiful. Small copy 
 of Raphael’s School of Athens. The 
 Battle of the Boyne, Vandermeulen. 
 Several good Canalettis. Vandyck, 
 Portrait of Charles I., f size. 
 
 Breakfast-room. — Titian , Portrait 
 of a Lady. Holbein , Head of a Man. 
 P. Neefs, Interiors of Churches. 
 Ruysdael , a Sea - piece, with 
 
 breakers, very fine. Vandyck , Head 
 of a Lady, in a blue dress. A. Biirer, 
 Virgin and Child, between pillars, 
 with Angels, curious and rare ; Head 
 of Cromwell. Domenichino , Portrait 
 of a Cardinal. Gainsborough , two 
 Beggar Boys. 
 
 In the State Dining-room, which 
 will accommodate 150 guests, are 4 
 Market-pieces, with figures large as 
 life, by Snyders; and a Game-piece, by 
 IVeenix, very good. 
 
 The house stands on the margin of 
 a beautiful artificial lake, 3 m. long, 
 covering an area of 200 acres, and 
 floating a small model frigate. Here 
 is a fine terrace and garden, formed 
 by the late Duke, with flights of 
 steps leading down to the water, and 
 decorated with vases of marble, and 
 a fountain-basin cut out of a single 
 block of marble 12 J ft. in diameter. 
 
 The pleasure - grounds, running 
 along the margin of the lake (on 
 which is a model of a canoe made for 
 the Prince of Wales in Canada), are 
 well laid out, and aboimd in fine 
 trees — cedars, oaks, firs, &c. The 
 conservatories in the kitchen garden 
 are 1300 ft. in length ; and the stud- 
 farm is an attraction to many. 
 
 The house is shown in the absence 
 of the Duke. 
 
 About 1 m. W. of Clumber is 
 Welbeck Abbey (Rte. 15), and in the 
 space between the small village of 
 Carburton, which is the property of 
 the Duke of Portland. Hence to 
 Worksop the road has almost the 
 character of a forest drive, with 
 Worksop Manor on W., and on the 
 E. a fine expanse of open country. 
 
 21 m. Worksop (Rte. 15). 
 
 ROUTE 17. 
 
 NEWARK TO DONCASTER, BY TUX- 
 FORD, RETFORD, AND BAWTRY. 
 
 Gr. N. RAILWAY. 36 m. 
 
 The rly. keeps very nearly the 
 same course as the old mail-coach 
 road, which is carried from Newark 
 
96 
 
 Route 17 . — Newark to Doncaster. 
 
 across the flat meadows that occupy 
 the space between the two branches 
 of the Trent, upon a raised cause- 
 way, with frequent openings to give 
 passage to the floods. This work 
 was formed by Smeaton in 1770, and 
 cost 12,OOOZ. At 2 m. from Newark 
 the line crosses the Trent below 
 Muskham Bridge, and passes the 
 villages of S. and N. Muskham. 
 Human remains have been found in 
 the gravel of the river in this 
 neighbourhood. From N. Muskham 
 there is a ferry to Holme , the ch. of 
 which contains some monuments to the 
 family of Bellasys, who lived here in 
 the 17th centy. Above the porch is 
 a chamber where a woman named 
 Nan Scott is said to have shut herself 
 up at the time of the plague, and so 
 escaped the disease. 
 
 5 m. On E. is the village of Crom- 
 iceU, the original seat of a great 
 baronial family, afterwards seated at 
 Tattershall. (See Handbook for Lin- 
 colnshire.) The first Lord Cromwell 
 was Constable of the Tower in the 
 reign of Edward II. 
 
 6J m. Carlton (Stat.). The village 
 is a hamlet of Norwell. It had a 
 Norm, chapel, now replaced by a 
 small modern E. E. ch., which has 
 some good stained glass in the 
 chancel. Carlton House (J. Yere, 
 Esq.). 2 m. W. is Ossington Hall , 
 the seat of the late Lord Ossington, 
 who, us the lit. Hon. J. E. Denison, 
 was long Speaker of the House of 
 Commons. Ossington Ch a modern 
 Grecian building, contains some old 
 monuments of the Cartwrights 
 (former possessors of Ossington Park), 
 and two statues, by Nollekens , of 
 members of the Portland family, to 
 which Lady Charlotte Denison be- 
 longed. 
 
 I m. N. is Moorhouse , a hamlet 
 with a very beautiful small ch., built 
 by Lord Ossington. 
 
 II j m. Tuxford (Stat.') (Inns: 
 Newcastle Arms ; the Hotel), a 
 
 small market town, known as Tux- 
 ford-in-the-Clay, to which Drunken 
 Barnaby alludes, saying the ways 
 are “ like bird-lime.” The place has 
 a modern appearance, having been 
 almost entirely rebuilt after a fire in 
 1702. The Ch ., a Perp. building, 
 contains a few ancient and muti- 
 lated monuments, possibly of the 
 family of Longvillers, whose chief 
 seat was here before they merged 
 into the Stanhopes of Hampton; 
 also a rude representation of St. 
 Lawrence on a gridiron, one man 
 blowing the bellows while another 
 is turning the saint. 
 
 The country around Tuxford is 
 a pleasant agricultural district, in 
 which hops, of coarse quality, are 
 rather largely grown. 
 
 At Darlton, 3 m. N.E., is a farm- 
 house, called Kingshaugh , tradition- 
 ally said to have been a hunting seat 
 of King John. * 
 
 At West Markham , 14 m. N.W., 
 a Ch. was built in 1831 by the Duke 
 ot Newcastle, lord of the manor, with 
 a burial-vault for his family beneath 
 it. It is a Grecian edifice surmounted 
 by a dome, the design by Smirke. 
 
 In East Markham ch. are several 
 monuments, one to Chief Justice 
 Markham, “ the upright judge ” 
 (d. 1408). 
 
 On Markham Moor, which was en- 
 closed 1810, was once a celebrated 
 posting inn. 
 
 18} m. Retford (Stat.). The stat., 
 as well as that of the Manchester, 
 Sheffield, and Lincolnshire line, is in 
 the parish of Ordsall , part of which 
 is now known as South Retford. 
 The town, 1 m. N., consists of East 
 and 1 Vest Retford , connected by a 
 bridge over the river Idle, and al- 
 most encompassed by the Chester- 
 field canal, which runs into tho 
 Trent near Stockwith. West Retford , 
 which is much the smallest, has a 
 ch. with a tower and handsome 
 crocketed spire. In East Retford is 
 what is usually styled tho Corpora- 
 
97 
 
 Boute 17 . — Sutton . — Gringley. 
 
 tion Church, and a modern chapel of 
 ease, at a place called Moorgate. 
 The town (Pop. 3000) is clean and 
 well built (Inn : White Hart), with a 
 spacious market-place, in the midst 
 of which formerly stood a fragment 
 of an old cross, called the Broad 
 ♦Stone. The Town-hall was built in 
 1755, on the site of the ancient 
 Moot-hall ; it contains portraits of 
 James I., George II. and his Queen, 
 and has a very ornamental ceiling. 
 There is a considerable trade here 
 in hops and agricultural produce, 
 and there are several paper-mills on 
 the Idle. 
 
 The “ Corporation Church,” dedi- 
 cated to St. Swithin, though it suf- 
 fered much in the 17th centy., is still 
 a noble edifice, with lofty square 
 tower. It has been well restored. 
 
 Retford, though very modern- 
 looking now, is a place of great an- 
 tiquity. It is mentioned as Rede- 
 ford in Domesday, and received its 
 first charter from Edward I. From 
 the time of Elizabeth it has been a 
 parliamentary borough, though fre- 
 quently in danger of disfranchise- 
 ment for corruption. In the elections 
 of 1818, 1820, and 1826 this was par- 
 ticularly conspicuous, and in 1827 a 
 bill was brought in for transferring 
 the franchise to Birmingham, but, 
 instead, the franchise was extended 
 to the whole hundred of Bassetlaw, 
 a constituency of about 2600 voters. 
 
 S. of Retford are the two fine 
 seats of Grove Hall (Harcourt Ver- 
 non, Esq.), and Babworth Hall (H. 
 Bridgeman-Simpson, Esq.). 
 
 21^ m. Sutton (Stat.). The vil- 
 lage, called Sutton-cum-Lound, lies 
 E. J m. The ch., E. E. and Perp., 
 is large and handsome, and has been 
 restored. W. of the line is Barnby 
 Moor, where was one of the noted 
 inns of the North road ; it is now 
 converted into private houses. 
 
 24§ m. Banskill (Stat.), a town- 
 ship of Blyth, which lies 2 m. W. 
 
 [Derby, Notts, Leic., & Staff, 
 
 The name is Danish, Ravenskelf, 
 or “ Hill of the Raven,” probably 
 alluding to some battle fought in 
 the vicinity. 
 
 1 \ m. W. is Serlby Hall (the seat 
 of Viscount Galway, M.P.), a square 
 modern stuccoed mansion. It con- 
 tains some fine paintings : 2 por- 
 traits by Holbein , of Henry VIII., 
 and of Nicholas Kreutzer, his astro- 
 nomer ; also Charles I. and his 
 Queen, with horses, dogs, and a 
 dwarf, by Daniel Mytens : this pic- 
 ture was given by Queen Anne to 
 Addison. Also by Vandych (V), 
 Charles I. and his Page ; Lords 
 Francis and William Russell ; Lady 
 Catherine Manners and her children. 
 8 views of Venice by Canaletti. 
 The park is very prettily watered by 
 the Ryton, which falls into the Idle 
 near Bawtry. 
 
 In the country E. of Ranskill, ex- 
 tending to the river Idle, are several 
 barrows, also a tumulus, called Bla- 
 kow hill, and an earthwork, which 
 is probably British. On the bank of 
 the river, 2 m. from Ranskill, is the 
 village of Mattersey, which formerly 
 had an Abbey of Gilbertine Canons, 
 founded 1190, by Roger de Moresay. 
 Some remains of the buildings are 
 worked up in a farmhouse, which 
 bears the name of “ the Abbey.” The 
 Ch. is Perp., with square embattled 
 tower, and in it is preserved a 
 carving representing St. Martin (to 
 whom the ch. is dedicated) dividing 
 his cloak with a beggar; it was 
 found hidden under the pavement of 
 the chancel in 1804, on occasion of 
 digging a grave. 
 
 2 m. E. of Mattersey is Claywortli, 
 in the ch.-yard of which is the fol- 
 lowing epitaph : — 
 
 “ Blest be he that set this stone, 
 
 That I may not be forgotten ; 
 
 And -curst be he that moves this stone 
 Before that they be rotten.” * 
 
 2 m. N.E. of Clayworth, on the 
 road to Gainsborough, is the village 
 of Gringley , which stands on a hill, 
 commanding a splendid view of the 
 F 
 
98 
 
 Houle 18. — Wor/csop to Doncaster . 
 
 country round, and extending to 
 Lincoln Cathedral. ’ The eh. is E. 
 E., with a N. aisle added in tho 
 18th-eent. church warden style. The 
 Beacon Hill was the site of an old 
 Roman camp, and was also occupied 
 by Prince Rupert in 1044. 
 
 20 m. Scr> why (Stat.) is a neat small 
 hamlet, once the residence of the 
 Archbishops of York, though of their 
 palace only a few fragments remain, 
 built into a farmhouse, which is still 
 called the Maiurr House. Leland de- 
 scribes it “as a great manor-place 
 withyn a moat, and builded into 
 courts, whereof the first is very 
 ample, and all builded of tymbre, 
 saving the front of brick/' In the 
 garden is a mulberry-tree said to have 
 i*cen planted by Cardinal Wolsey. 
 Among t lie tenants of Scrooby in 
 the time of Queen Elizabeth was 
 William Brewster, who here com- 
 menced tin* congregation of “ Sepa- 
 ratists,” from which sprang even- 
 tually the Puritan settlements of 
 New England. The eh. of Scrooby 
 is a fine E. E. edifice, with square 
 tower, and a lofty spire, which has 
 been repeatedly damaged by light- 
 ning. 
 
 27J Hairtry (Stat.) (Inn: 
 
 Crown). This is a small market 
 town, on the river Idle, partly in 
 Yorkshire. The Ch. is supposed to 
 have b«*rn founded by L)e Busli, 
 Ix>r 1 of tho Honour of Tickhill, and 
 builder of Blyth Prion*. It consists 
 of nave ami aisles, but, except a 
 Norm, doorway on the N. side, has 
 little of interest about it. There is an 
 almshouse with a chapel, founded by 
 the M*»rton family, who wrre long 
 resident here, and who, continuing in 
 the old r» ligion, caused Buwtry to 
 be regard* d as “ a dangerous nest of 
 papists” when the Queen of Scots 
 was confined at Sheffield Ostle. 
 Buwtry is on the Great North mad, 
 and it was here that tho sheriff of 
 Yorkshire anciently met royal per- 
 
 sonages, and conducted them into 
 his county. Wlien Henry VIII. 
 visited Yorkshire in 1541, after the 
 rising known as “ The Pilgrimage of 
 Grace,” lie was met at Buwtry by 
 44 200 gentlemen of the county in 
 velvet, and 4000 bill yeomen and 
 servingmen well horsed, who on 
 their knees made a submission by 
 the mouth of Sir Robe rt Bowes, and 
 presented the king with 9001.” — 
 HaU. 
 
 The line now enters Yorkshire, 
 and, passing Rossington Stat., reaches 
 at 
 
 30 m. Doncaster (Stat.). (Hand- 
 book for Yorkshire .) 
 
 ROUTE 18. 
 
 WORKSOP TO DONCASTER, BY TICK 
 
 HILL [BLYTH, ROCHE ABBEYJ. 
 
 BY ROAD. 17 m. 
 
 At 3} m. N. of Worksop is the 
 village of Carlton, called Carllon-in - 
 Lindrick, to distinguish it from Carl- 
 ton near Nottingham (Rt *. 11). It 
 was one of tho possessions of Roger 
 de Busli at the Domesday Survey. 
 The oli. has some Norm, an I E. E. 
 traces, nw^ a Norm, tympanum over 
 the chancel doorway. The little 
 river Ryton, which runs through 
 Blyth, rise* mar Carlton Hall (R. 
 Ramndcn. Esq.). 
 
 5 m. On E. is a turreted gate- 
 way, formerly tho entrance to 
 H'-.it of the Creasy*, and subsequently 
 of the Clifton*, who succeeded the 
 former in these estates about tho 15th 
 ccnty. 
 
 [A abort distance beyond this, a 
 
99 
 
 'Route 18 . — BlytJi. — Roche Abbey. 
 
 road leads to the decayed market- 
 town of Blyth (2] m.), passing Hod- 
 sock Priory, the seat of Col. Mellish. 
 A very beautiful Early Eng. chapel 
 once existed here, to the S.W., but 
 there are now no remains of it. 
 
 Blyth \ s so called, according to the 
 venerable topographer John Norden, 
 “a jocunditate,” which, says Fuller, 
 
 “ I desire may be extended all over 
 the shire, being confident that one 
 ounce of mirth, with the same degree 
 of grace, will serve God more than 
 a pound of sorrow.” It is well worth 
 a visit on account of its noble Ch., 
 which belonged to a Benedictine 
 priory, founded in the 11th centy. by 
 De Busli, one of the most powerful 
 of William the Conqueror’s nobles, 
 who held large possessions in Notts 
 and Yorkshire. It is a fine building, 
 consisting of a nave, chancel, aisles, 
 south porch, and tower; it formerly 
 possessed, in addition, transepts and a 
 choir, with an apse and a central 
 tower, owing probably to the fact 
 that the conventual and parish chs. 
 were under one roof, each possessing 
 its own chancel and screen ; the pre- 
 sent chancel is at the end of the S. 
 aisle, two compartments correspond- 
 ing in position to the chancel on the 
 N. having been converted to their 
 own use by the Mellishes, the former 
 owners of Blyth Hall, the grounds 
 of which adjoin the ch. on the E. 
 Where then the visitor would 
 naturally expect the chancel E. 
 window, there is externally only 
 a blocked arch, being one of those 
 on which the central tower rested. 
 Internally there is a deep recess, 
 known as the Aviary, having been 
 once used as such by the Mellish 
 family, an ancestor of whom appears 
 to have been the principal agent in 
 vandalizing the building. Several 
 of their monuments crowd its in- 
 terior ; but the most noticeable object 
 is a beautiful screen, containing in 
 the lower panels painted figures of 
 St. Barbara, St. Stephen, St. Eu- 
 phemia, St. Edmund, and St. Ursula. 
 
 The town, though small (Pop. about 
 7()0) is very pleasantly situated, 
 amid fine trees, on the little river 
 Byton; and Blyth Hall (H. F. 
 Walker, Esq.) is a noble mansion, 
 standing in extensive grounds.] 
 
 [Returning from Blyth to the 
 main road, the tourist at 7 m. turns 
 W. into Yorkshire, the object of 
 attraction being the ruins of Roche 
 Abbey The road passes Firbeck 
 Hall (Mrs. Miles) on S., and Sand- 
 beck Park (Earl of Scarborough) on 
 N., and at 3 m. from the main road 
 we enter the sheltered valley in 
 which a small colony of Cistercian 
 monks established themselves, lite- 
 rally “ under the shadow of a rock,'’ 
 some time in the reign of Stephen. 
 In 1147 Richard de Busli and 
 Richard Fitz-Tingis founded for them 
 the beautiful Trans.-Norm. edifice, 
 which received the name of Sancta 
 Maria de Rupe, or Roche Abbey. 
 “It stands,” says Mr. Hunter, “in 
 a place admirably suited for such 
 a foundation. It was the point 
 of union of two narrow valleys, each 
 with its little stream, and where 
 a fissure in the limestone rock laid 
 bare a wide perpendicular surface ; 
 this formed for some extent the 
 northern boundary of the valley, 
 as the united streams pursued their 
 course to Blyth. The ground rose 
 less rapidly on the S. and was 
 covered with native woods. Even 
 now the scene inspires something of 
 awe, as much for its intense solitude 
 and native features as from the evi- 
 dences which remain that it was 
 once a place peculiarly consecrated 
 to the offices of religion ; where 
 there was ‘no eye to overlook the 
 daily walks, the solemn services, the 
 deep meditations, or the severe 
 austerities of a Cistercian life.’ 
 
 “A natural phenomenon, height- 
 ened possibly by art, might contri- 
 bute to induce the monks to make 
 choice of this spot. Among the 
 fantastic forms of the limestone rock 
 f 2 
 
100 
 
 Route 18 . — Worksop to Doncaster . 
 
 was discovered something which 
 bore the resemblance of our Saviour 
 on the cross. This natural image 
 was held in high reverence, and de- 
 votees came on pilgrimage to our 
 Saviour of the Rock. This fact is 
 mentioned in the return made by 
 Cromwell’s visitors of the religious 
 houses preparatory to their dissolu- 
 tion/* This figure, which gave the 
 name to the establishment, has 
 long since disappeared. “ Of the 
 fabric of the abbey only a gate- 
 way, placed at the entrance to the 
 recincts at the W. side, and some 
 eautiful fragments of the ch., now 
 remain. The gateway is later than 
 the ch. ; indeed, so late and standing 
 so far from the monastery, that it 
 might be taken for part of the 
 Norm. Hospitium mentioned in the 
 account of the abbey property, and 
 was doubtless erected for the con- 
 venience of pilgrims and others. 
 [It is of Dec. architecture, and may 
 be advantageously compared with 
 that at Worksop ] Much of the 
 ch. is gone, but enough remains 
 from which to collect its extent, 
 form, and date. A large mass 
 of stonework at a distance west- 
 ward from the principal portion 
 which remains of the ch., is evidently 
 the base of one side of the great 
 western entrance.” The nave and 
 aisles have disappeared. Eastward 
 are remains of the piers which sup- 
 port the central tower. The east- 
 ern walls of these transepts remain, 
 with traces of two small chapels 
 with eastern windows. “The N. 
 wall of the transept must have arisen 
 close to the perpendicular rock, and, 
 indeed, the whole of the N. side 
 must have been thus darkened. On 
 the N. side of the choir may be 
 discovered some rich tabcmacle- 
 work, a part of which has been 
 painted red, and has the appearance 
 of having been a canopy over seats 
 or tombs. [More probably an Easter 
 sepulchre.] ” — Hunter. 
 
 “The stone of wliicl Roche Abbey 
 
 is built is famous for its durability ; 
 the sharpness of the angles and the 
 distinctness of the tool marks, which 
 may be everywhere met with, prove 
 how well it deserves its reputation/’ 
 
 The pescaries or fish-stews and 
 the corn-mill are still existing. The 
 stream running through the grounds 
 is well stocked with trout. 
 
 Roche Abbey (which belongs to 
 the Earl of Scarborough) is the fa- 
 vourite resort of picnic-parties from 
 the neighbouring towns ; its beauti- 
 ful grounds, its streams, its lake, and 
 the pleasant walks always kept in 
 good order, amply repay the nu- 
 merous visitors for the trouble in 
 reaching it. There is a small house 
 in the grounds where stabling and 
 refreshments may be obtained. 
 
 From Roche Abbey we reach 
 Tickhill (4 m.), on the Doncaster 
 road.] 
 
 10 m. Tickhill , a small market- 
 town, where malting and paper- 
 making is carried on. The Ch. is 
 a handsome Perp. building, with 
 a fine pinnacled tower, the lower 
 stage of which is Early Eng., and 
 a chancel (with a clerestory window), 
 containing an altar-tomb to a senes- 
 chal of the Honour of Tickhill. 
 The remains of the castle are re- 
 duced to a mound and foss, a gate- 
 way, and some fragments of wall. The 
 whole area, including the moat, is 
 about 7 acres. It was founded by 
 Do Busli soon after the Conquest; 
 was renowned for its strength, and 
 was once possessed by John of 
 Gaunt. The keep was in existence 
 in Leland's time, who says : 44 The 
 castcl is well dicliid and waullid with 
 a very hard swart stone hewid ; the 
 dungcono is the farrest part of the 
 castel ; all the buildings withyn the 
 area be down, saving an old haulle/* 
 In the great Rebellion it was gar- 
 risoned for the king, but was reduced 
 by the Parliamentarians after Mar- 
 ston Moor, shortly after which it 
 was dismantled. A residence built 
 
101 
 
 Boute 19 . — Market Harbor ough to Leicester . 
 
 on its site in the 17th 1 centy., is 
 usually occupied by the different 
 Crown lessees. About m. from 
 Tickhill are the scanty remains of 
 an Augustine Priory , founded temp. 
 Edward I., by John Clarell, pre- 
 bendary of Southwell. 
 
 17 m. Doncaster (Stat.). ( Hotels : 
 New Angel ; Reindeer.) (See Hand- 
 book for Yorkshire .) 
 
 ROUTE 19. 
 
 MARKET HARBOROUGH TO 
 LEICESTER. 
 
 MIDLAND RAILWAY. 16 m. 
 
 Market Harborough (Stat.) ( Inns : 
 Three Swans, Angel) stands on the 
 Welland, at the S. E. corner of 
 Leicestershire. It has considerable 
 business in brick and tile making, 
 and a stay factory employs many 
 people. It has several charities, but, 
 unlike most Leicestershire towns, 
 it has no common lands, which 
 has given rise to the sayings, “ A 
 goose will eat all the grass that 
 grows in Harborough field ; ” and, 
 “ I’ll throw you into Harborough 
 field,” a threat for children. 
 
 The Ch.. dedicated to St. Dionysius 
 the Areopagite, is a very handsome 
 Perp. structure, and has been well 
 restored. It has a lofty tower and very 
 beautiful broach spire, built entirely 
 on the pyramidal principle from the 
 bottom to the apex. On the S. side of 
 the chancel, which has a geometrical 
 
 E. window, are two sedilia, discovered 
 during the restoration. It is com- 
 monly said to have been built by 
 John of Gaunt, in compliance with 
 a papal injunction as an atonement 
 for his illicit attachment to Katherine 
 Swinford, but Mr. Bloxam has shown 
 that the founder was one of the 
 Scrope family. “ The church consists 
 of two distinct portions, one, the 
 chancel and tower, of the 14th centy., 
 and the other, the nave and aisles 
 of the 15th centy. In either aisle is 
 a window of the 14th centy., probably 
 preserved from the old structure; 
 and the pitch of the old nave is still 
 visible in the tower.” There are 
 porches on the N. and S. sides, and 
 over each is a chamber, supposed to 
 have served for the residence of 
 anchorites. — ( M . H. Bloxam.') 
 
 Near the ch. is the Grammar 
 School , founded and endowed by 
 Robert Smyth, an officer of the city 
 of London, in 1613, and still under 
 the management of the Corporation. 
 It is a quaint-looking timber build- 
 ing, supported on pillars (the butter- 
 market is held on the space beneath), 
 and has divers “godly sentences” 
 painted on the projecting beams. 
 At a short distance is the old house 
 in which Charles I. is said to have 
 slept the night before the battle of 
 Naseby ; it is now divided into three 
 separate dwellings. 
 
 Harborough is believed to have 
 been a British settlement as well as 
 a Roman station, and consideiable 
 quantities of pottery have been found 
 in the burial-ground of the mother- 
 church of St. Mary-in-Arden : there 
 are also faint traces of a Roman 
 camp. The Ch. of St. Mary now 
 serves as a mortuary chapel to the 
 cemetery ; it has a good 14th-centy. 
 porch, within which is a very fine 
 Norm. arch. 
 
 Harborough suffered considerably 
 from Prince Rupert in the civil war, 
 but its inhabitants remained vehe- 
 mently Puritanical even after the 
 
102 
 
 Route 19 . — Market Harborough to Leicester. 
 
 Restoration. A local historian says: 
 “In 1673 the Rev. M. Clarke or Li- 
 mited a meeting of Protestant Dis- 
 senters in this town ; their meetings 
 were held at night, when lie and 
 others stood for hours together in 
 the water, under Chain Bridge, to 
 elude the vigilance of informers.’* 
 
 [The Rugby and Stamford Rly. 
 passes through Market Harborough, 
 and on it the geologist should make 
 an excursion to Nevill Holt (8 m. 
 N. E. from the Medboume Stat. on 
 that line), where there is an ex- 
 tensive bed of oolitic iron ore, 
 similar to, and a continuation of, the 
 bed in Northamptonshire. Blast fur- 
 naces were erected by Mr. Thornton, 
 who resides at Nevill Holt Hall, an 
 interesting old mansion, situated on 
 a hill. The Ch. is Dec. with Perp. 
 alterations, and contains some monu- 
 ments to the Nevill family, who owned 
 the Hall, 1636. The village of Holt 
 was long celebrated for its mineral 
 spring (chalybeate), of which a curious 
 account was written by Dr. Short in 
 1792. Medbourne is conjectured to 
 have been a Roman station on the 
 Via Devana from Colchester to 
 Chester, from the fact that coins 
 are so frequently turned up in the 
 fields by swine as to have earned the 
 name of “ pig-money.” The Ch. is 
 E. Eng., with a transept and double 
 aisle on the S. side, also a couple of 
 chantries. 
 
 1 m. N. of Nevill Holt is Blaston 
 St. Giles , the ch. of which contains 
 an ancient chalice, supposed to be 
 the one formerly belonging to the 
 chapel attached to a hunting-seat of 
 King Richard I. at Blaston ] 
 
 6 m. Kibicorth (Stat.), a stocking- 
 making village, with a handsome 
 Ch. built in 1829. in lieu of an 
 ancient edifice that fell down whilst 
 in the course of repair a short time 
 before. Dr. Aikin, the editor of 
 the ‘Monthly Magazine,’ was born 
 here in 1747. 3 m. N. E. is the 
 
 village of Carleton Curl ten, whoso 
 inhabitants, according to Camden, 
 were unable to pronounce the letter R, 
 and were on that account called 
 “ Carleton wharlcrs ; ” and Fuller 
 tells us of a Fellow of Trinity 
 College, Cambridge, a native of 
 Carleton, who made a long speech in 
 which not a single R occurred, 
 “ which if true, he (no doubt) con- 
 trived on purpose to prevent a de- 
 formity of pronunciation upon a 
 frequent occurrence of that letter.” 
 The ch. contains an alabaster tomb 
 (date 1621) with the effigies of Sir 
 John Bale and his wife, together with 
 their 7 children. Adjoining the vil- 
 lage is Carleton Hall (Capt. Sutton), 
 a fine Jacobean edifice. 
 
 At a short distance E. of Kibworth 
 is a group of villages called The 
 Langtom , consisting of E. and W. 
 Langton, Thorpe-Langton, and Tur- 
 Langton. In Tur-Langton is a well 
 called King Charles’s Well, from a tra- 
 dition that the monarch there watered 
 his horse in his flight from the battle- 
 field of Nnseby. The Ch. is in E. 
 Langton, and is esteemed the finest 
 village ch. in the county. It was 
 originally Dec., probably built be- 
 tween 1320 and 1347 by two brothers 
 of the name of Latimer, but in the 
 next centy. a noble nave and tower 
 were erected, and it is believed that 
 the builder was William Harwood, 
 the designer of Fotheringhay (see 
 Handbook for Northamptonshire). 
 The place is of some celebr tv in con- 
 nection with the name of William 
 Hanbury, an enthusiastic clergyn an, 
 who held the living in the early p.irt 
 of the reign of George III. He hud 
 great skill in planting and horti- 
 culture, and several villages in the 
 neighbourhood are indebted to l»is 
 Inunvolont exertions in encouraging 
 the cultivation of fruit-trees. When 
 became, in his 25th year, to Langton, 
 he was much struck by the beauty 
 of the ch., and, as he *aid, “finding 
 so noble a room provided, made it 
 his business to decorate it,” giving 
 
103 
 
 JEtoute 19 . — Glen . — Aylestone. 
 
 to that purpose the annual profits of 
 some plantations and fruit-gardens 
 that he had already established at 
 Gumley and Tur-Langton, and 
 which were valued at 10,000Z. His 
 project being warmly taken up by 
 some of the neighbouring gentry, he 
 soon enlarged it, and devised a ! 
 scheme for replacing his church by a 
 “ Minster/’ which was to excel all i 
 existing cathedrals, and to have a j 
 central tower 493 ft. high. He also ' 
 proposed to establish a number of , 
 schools, hospitals, &c., for the benefit ; 
 of the population that he expected 
 would gather round it. His project | 
 was too vast for any one man to 
 accomplish, but he never lost faith 
 in it, and by indefatigable industry 
 he collected from various sources 
 about 4-OOOh, which at his death he 
 left in the hands of trustees to accu- j 
 mulate till it reached the sum of 
 1000Z. per annum ; and this, in spite 
 of the matter falling into Chancery, 
 has of late years been done. In 
 1854 the Hanbury trustees esta- 
 blished free-schools for the Langtons, 
 and in 1865 they accomplished the 
 restoration of the ch. in a most satis- 
 factory manner. 
 
 8 m. Glen (Stat.). Glen is a 
 stocking-making village, remarkable 
 for nothing but a reputation, accord- 
 ing to the Leicestershire saying, of j 
 “ containing more dogs than honest i 
 men.” 2 m. E. is Burton Overy. 
 The Dec. and Perp. ch. has been 
 restored, and coniains a very fine 
 altar-screen. At the rectory is a 
 noble oak, raised from an acorn from 
 the famous tree at Boscobel. Near 
 the line, on S., is the village of 
 Wistow, with an E. E. ch. containing 
 monuments of the Halford family. 
 Wistow Hall (Sir H. Halford, Bt.) 
 contains many portraits of George III., 
 his family and friends, and in the 
 hall is preserved in a glass case the 
 saddle and stirrups of Charles I., 
 who passed a night at Wistow just 
 before the battle of Naseby. 
 
 12 m. Wigston Junct. Stat. Here 
 the lines from Rugby (Rte. 24) and 
 from Nuneaton (Rte. 20) fall in. 
 Great Wigston (so called to distin- 
 guish it from Little Wigston, a ham- 
 let near Lutterworth) is a busy place, 
 chiefly occupied with the hosiery 
 trade. The modern ch. of All 
 Saints has a handsome tower and 
 spire. A portion of the old disused 
 ch. of St. Wolstan has been restored, 
 and now serves as a cemetery chapel. 
 2 m. W. is Oadby , a particularly 
 neat and clean-looking village, a 
 meet for the Quorndon hounds. 
 The ch. has a good tower and spire ; 
 and the interior has several interest- 
 ing monuments. 
 
 On the opposite side of the line, 
 on the rive Soar, is Aylestone, the 
 graceful spire of its ch. being very 
 conspicuous. Aylestone Hall (N. C. 
 Stone, Esq.) is an ancient building, 
 well restored ; it was a possession of 
 the Manners’ family, and the Duke 
 of Rutland is still lord of the manor. 
 Across the river is a farmhouse, 
 occupying the site of Lubbestliorpe 
 Abbey , of which some few fragments 
 remain. The country between 
 Market Harborough and Leicester is 
 not an inviting one as far as scenery 
 goes ; but it is celebrated' for its 
 hunting capabilities, the Pytchley, 
 the Billesdon, and the Quorn hunts 
 occupying all this side of Leicester- 
 shire, and it also contains several 
 interesting village churches : as 
 
 Foxton , Saddington , and Mowsley 
 (all late E. E. or Dec. ), on the W. 
 side of the line; and Cranoe, Nose- 
 ley, and Tilton, on E. Cranoe is a 
 fine Perp. edifice, with memorials of 
 the earls of Carnarvon. Noseley 
 (once collegiate) has a splendid lomb 
 for Sir Arthur Hasilrigge, the regi- 
 cide, and his 2 wives ( Noseley Hally 
 Sir A. G. Hasilrigge, is very near) ; 
 and Tilton has two very fine sepul- 
 chral effigies for Sir John Digby 
 (d. 1269) and his wife, and also the 
 tomb of Sir Robert Digby, the father 
 of the Gunpowder plotter. 
 
104 : 
 
 Bunt e 19 . — Market Hcirborou/jli to Leicester . 
 
 1 G m. Leicester (Stat.), the county 
 town (Hotels : Bell, good ; Three 
 Crowns ; Wellington ; Pop. 95,083). 
 There can be no doubt* tlmt Leicester 
 has claims to a very ancient history, 
 though we may not receive the tra- 
 dition of its having been the resi- 
 dence of King Lear and his three 
 daughters. It seems certain, how- 
 ever, that it was the Roman station 
 of Rato, various remains having been 
 found to identify it. It was the 
 seat of a Saxon bishopric, and was 
 also one of the Five Burghs of the 
 Dance; and it claims the credit of 
 having h* Id out for a while against 
 William the Norman. In 1173 the 
 town was nearly destroyed, in conse- 
 quence of the disaffection of the Earl 
 of Ix icx'ster to the Crown, and the 
 castle, together with that of Groby 
 (Bte. 23), was demolished. The 
 castle was rebuilt, and remained a 
 place of strength until the time of 
 the civil war; now’ only the great 
 hall and the mound (used as a bowl- 
 ing-green remain. In May 1645 
 1^ icester w as captured by Charles I. 
 by storm, and given up to the licence 
 of the troops, but was abandoned in 
 less than a week after. Since that 
 time the town has had no history 
 more eventful than the excesses of 
 the machine-breaking mobs of 1816, 
 which were followed by several exe- 
 cutions. 
 
 The chief employment of Leicester 
 for nearly 200 years was stocking- 
 making and knitting, but other ma- 
 nufactures are now extensively prac- 
 ticed. The trade was first com- 
 menced here in 1686, by one Alsopp, 
 who, in the face of great difficulties 
 and popular prejudice, erected a 
 stocking-frame. This was nearly 100 
 years subsequent to the invention 
 of the stock ing-looin by Mr. Is*e 
 of Wood borough (Rte. 11). In the 
 reign of Queen Anne there was a 
 corjxmition termed the M Framework 
 Knitters* Company,” which lsire for 
 its anus a stocking-loom, supported 
 on one side by a clergyman, and on 
 
 the other by a female presenting a 
 disused knitting-pin, in reference to 
 the story of Lee and his wife. The 
 spinning of yam is carried on to 
 some extent in Leicester, hut the 
 character of the trudo is different 
 from that of other towns in which 
 the factory system prevails. Hero 
 the manufacturer buys his yam and 
 lets it out at a price, to be made 
 into the necessary articles, to the 
 inhabitants of the surrounding towns 
 and villages, who are called “stock- 
 ingers.” There arc several peculiar 
 features in this system, such as the 
 employment of middle-men between 
 the manufacturers and the work- 
 people : also the system of renting 
 frames. Few of the stockingers owm 
 their frames, but hire them from the 
 masters, at the rate of 8 d. to 3s. a 
 w’eek, varying according to the state 
 of trade. Some firms own and let 
 out upwards of 1000 frames; and 
 it is a common thing for persons in 
 other occupations, and who are per- 
 fectly unconnected with the stocking 
 trade, to invest in frames and let 
 them out, these being called “ inde- 
 pendent” frames. It is estimated 
 that in Leicester and its vicinity 
 there are upwards of 12,000 frames, 
 which support a population of about 
 50,000 souls. The manufacture of 
 boots and shoes is also a staple trade 
 of Leicester ; and the manufacture 
 of elastic fabrics has lately l»een 
 introduced. 
 
 Few even of the great manufac- 
 turing towns in the North have in- 
 creased more rapidly than T/cieester 
 has done of late years. The popu- 
 lation is now nearly doable wlmt it 
 was at the census of 1841, and well- 
 built suburbs occupy what wero 
 then open fields. The main avenues 
 • »f Gallowtreo Gate, Humbcrstono 
 Gate, Bclgrave (bite, and High 
 Street converge in the centre of the 
 town, and there nn ornamental 
 Clork-Totcer has l»ecn erected by 
 ! Ordieh , a local architect. At its 
 
Boute 19 . — Leicester. 
 
 105 
 
 base are statues of four Leicester 
 celebrities, viz. Simon de Montfort 
 (1265), William Wigston (1512), 
 Sir Thomas White (1546), and 
 Alderman Newton (1760). Closely- 
 adjoining is the Market-place, where 
 is a handsome Corn Exchange and a 
 Statue of the 5th Duke of Rutland. 
 Granby Street contains the Post 
 Office, the Library and News-room, 
 and the Temperance Hall — all 
 buildings of merit. Of churches 
 recently built, that of St. Mark, the 
 gift of Mr. Perry Herrick, is the 
 most remarkable, both externally 
 and internally. Dissenting chapels 
 are numerous, and among them the 
 Wesleyan chapel in Humberstone 
 Gate, by Ordish , a parti-coloured 
 brick edifice, is likely to attract 
 attention by its very peculiar style 
 of architecture. There are two 
 Railway Stations: the general one 
 in Campbell Street, on the London 
 road, and another at West Bridge, 
 which is chiefly used for the traffic 
 with the Leicestershire coal-field ; 
 it is, indeed, the terminus of the 
 Leicester and Swannington Railway, 
 one of the earliest works of Robert 
 Stepheoson. 
 
 The Roman antiquities of Lei- 
 cester are extremely interesting, and 
 include the Jewry Wall, which is 
 one of the most perfect remains of 
 its kind in Britain. It closely ad- 
 joins St. Nicholas Church. As it at 
 present stands, it is about 25 yards 
 in length, and 5 or 6 in height, and 
 consists of a western side (not open to 
 view, forming the wall of a factory) 
 and an eastern side, “ containing 
 several arched recesses, the soffits or 
 vaultings of which are turned with 
 courses of large flat bricks; rows 
 of these are likewise interspersed 
 throughout the wall at intervals, as 
 bonding-courses, and the Roman 
 mode of constructing the arch with 
 brickwork is here clearly displayed.” 
 
 According to Geoffrey of Mon- 
 mouth, there was in Raise a temple of 
 Janus, and it may be remarked that 
 
 these ruins bear a striking resem- 
 blance in many points to the ruins of 
 one of the ancient temples of Rome. 
 — Bloxam. Other antiquaries con- 
 sider that the wall formed part of 
 the gateway of the Roman city, and 
 that the street or road led over the 
 old Bow Bridge on to the Fosse Way. 
 Local examiners believe that it once 
 formed the front of a temple, having 
 4 entrances, and that, when it fell into 
 decay, the western side of the town- 
 wall was built up alongside and the 
 portal made to correspond with its 
 two middle arches. — Thompson’s 
 Handbook of Leicester. The wall has 
 been opened through half its length 
 by the Leicestershire Archaeological 
 Society to the original level of the 
 Roman way, has received some need- 
 ful support, and is protected by iron 
 railing. The footings of the piers 
 are now visible, and it is quite evi- 
 dent that the building or wall never 
 came forward in an easterly direc- 
 tion towards the church. These facts 
 tend to strengthen the notion that 
 the Jewry wall formed a portion of 
 the western wall of Roman Leicester. 
 
 No less than 11 tesselated pave- 
 ments have been found at different 
 times in Leicester, one of which, 
 of considerable size, represents the 
 story of Diana and Actseori. The 
 visitor may inspect one in Jewry 
 Wall Street. 
 
 “Thus, with her handmaid Sence, the Soar 
 doth eas’ly slide 
 
 By Leicester, where yet her ruins show her 
 pride, 
 
 Demolish’d many years, that of the great 
 foundation 
 
 Of her long buried walls men hardly see 
 the station ; 
 
 Yet of some pieces found, so sure the cement 
 locks 
 
 The stones, that they remain like perdurable 
 rocks.” — Drayton. 
 
 The Roman milestone which was 
 discovered on the Fosse Way in 1771, 
 is now in the Museum. It is about 
 ft. high, and has an inscription to 
 the Emperor Trajan, with a notice 
 that it -was 2 miles from Ratse. The 
 f 3 
 
106 
 
 Route 19 . — Market Harborough to Leicester . 
 
 Bawdyle s, near the junction of the 
 Burton Rly. with tho Swannington 
 line, is supposed to be a corruption 
 of Rhedagua, and to have been the 
 site of the Roman racecourse. 
 
 The old houses of Leicester, timber- 
 built and picturesque, have now 
 almost entirely disappeared. The 
 Blue Boar Inn, where Richard HI. 
 slept on ‘21st Aug. 1485, the night 
 before marching to Bosworth Field, 
 was pulled down in 1836, and many 
 buildings of like architecture have 
 been removed since. The only me- 
 morial of Richard is a stone in a 
 building close to Bow Bridge, the 
 inscription on which asserts that he 
 was buried near that spot. In High- 
 street is a singular-looking domed 
 structure (now a shoemaker’s ware- 
 house), called the Brick Toicer. 
 The interior is of stone, and it is a 
 fragment of the mansion of the Earls 
 of Huntingdon. In the time of 
 Elizabeth it was called Lord’s Place, 
 and here Dudley, Earl of Leicester, 
 w as a frequent visitor. Mary Queen 
 of Scots passed a night in it on her 
 way to Fotheringhay ; and here also 
 Nonconformist preachers were shel- 
 tered after the pas>ing of the Act of 
 Uniformity (166*2) by the puritanical 
 Countess of Huntingdon. 
 
 Bow Bridge, over which Richard 
 marched to his last field, was pulled 
 down in 1862; an iron bridge of the 
 same name has taken its place. 
 
 The Toicn Hall, which is near 
 St Martin’s ch., is believed to havo 
 been the hall of a guild of Corpus 
 Christi, but added to about 1586, as 
 appears by a date on the wall. It 
 contains portraits of Sir Thomas 
 White and Henry, Earl of Hunting- 
 don, both benefactors to the town. 
 The Mayor's Parlour , adjoining, was 
 built in 1636, is quaintly ornamented, 
 and lias somecuiious stained gluss, 
 presumed to be temp. Hen. VII. 
 The Library contains, among other 
 curious matters, an early MS. of the 
 New Te-tament, known as Codex 
 Lcicestrcnsis. 
 
 Of the Leicester churches, St . 
 Nicholas is the most ancient both in 
 style and materials, the latter hav- 
 ing been partly supplied from tho 
 stones of the adjoining Jewry Wall. 
 It is an example of very early rude 
 Norman, and was once cruciform ; 
 it now consists of a nave, chancel, 
 and south aisle (rebuilt), tho tran- 
 septs and north aisle having been 
 taken down at the end of tho 
 17th centy. A square tower, with an 
 intersecting arcade, rises between the 
 nave and the chancel. There is a 
 Norman doorway leading from tho 
 vestry into the ch. At the N. sido 
 are some blocked round-headed 
 arches, and over them some small 
 round-headed windows now blocked, 
 turned in Roman brick. The adjoin- 
 ing ground is called “ Holy Bones,” 
 in consequence, it is presumed, of 
 large numbers of bones (of oxen?) 
 having been found here. On tho 
 S. E. sido of the ch.-yard is a timber- 
 framed house with well-carved shafts 
 and projecting spurs, which, accord- 
 ing to a tablet affixed, has afforded 
 a night’s lodging to John Bunyun 
 and to John Wesley. 
 
 The restored Ch. of St. Mary de 
 Castro is of very singular interest. It 
 consists of two naves of equal length 
 and a narrow N. aisle : and has at the 
 W. end a massive E. E. tower resting 
 on noble arches and supporting a Dee. 
 spire, built inside the S. nave, and 
 standing independently of the walla 
 of the ch. The N. nave was Norm., 
 with narrow aisles, and terminated 
 in a chancel of the same style, but 
 without a chancel arch. The origi- 
 nal windows exist in the chancel, 
 and are very rich, as are the sediliu, 
 an unusual feature in Norm, churches. 
 The windows of the nave were built 
 up when the S. nave was added, but 
 may bo traced in the wall. A very 
 rich E. E. clerestory was added in 
 the 13th centy., but that to the 8. 
 aisle is now Perp. There is a rich 
 Norm. N. door, and another, smaller 
 and plainer, at the W. end, which 
 
107 
 
 Moute 19 . — Leicester: Churches . 
 
 served as an entrance from the castle. 
 The S. porch is (modern) E. E. The 
 roofs and woodwork are all rich and 
 good, and the font is rich E. E. ; the 
 windows are filled with stained glass, 
 and the simplicity of the arrangement 
 of the parts and the beauty of each 
 feature must secure the attention of 
 the architectural student. In the S. 
 chancel is a monument, conspicuous 
 for its bad taste, to the Rev. Thomas 
 Robinson (d. 1813), the author of 
 the once popular “ Scripture Cha- 
 racters.” Closely adjoining the ch. 
 is the entrance to the Castle-yard 
 (post). 
 
 All Saints’ Ch. consists of nave, 
 aisles, and modern chancel. The 
 windows are of an unpleasing form 
 of Dec. (curvilinear, with plain in- 
 tersecting mullions without cusps), 
 common in the county. At the 
 W. end is a Norm, doorway and 
 a curious clock, the hours of which 
 are struck by figures with hammers. 
 The tower is on the N. side, and was 
 at one time open to the ch. ; at the 
 angles are buttresses, which seem to 
 have been formed of old materials 
 from the Norm. ch. In the interior 
 are a Perp. roof, a carved E. E. font, 
 and hexagonal pulpit. 
 
 St. Martin’s Ch. is a cruciform 
 structure of great width, with a noble 
 central tower raised on arches and 
 supporting a fine broach spire erected 
 in 1852 from a design by Brandon. 
 A portion of the Norm, string-course 
 of the former ch. exists on the N. 
 side of the N.W. tower pier. With 
 the exception of the chancel, which 
 is Perp., and has some rich late 
 sedilia, the ch. is E. E., with inserted 
 Dec. windows ; the arcades are sin- 
 gularly pleasing. An additional S. 
 aisle as wide as the nave has been 
 erected, which much enhances the 
 beauty of the ch., and the wooden 
 roofs are rich and good. 
 
 The S. aisle, where the Archdeacon 
 holds his court, once had a portrait 
 of Charles I., painted by a native 
 artist; but this has been removed 
 
 to the Town Museum. The E. end 
 of the aisle was called Our Lady’s 
 Chapel, and at the W. end was the 
 Chapel of St. George. There is also 
 a painting, once used as an altar- 
 piece, by an artist named Vanni 
 in 1563. To the N. of the chancel 
 is Heyrick’s ch. or chapel, the 
 burying-place of the Heyricks, an 
 ancient Leicester family. What is 
 now the vestry is believed to have 
 been St. Catherine’s Chapel. Abigail 
 Swift, the mother of the Dean, was 
 buried in this ch., in 1710. 
 
 Close adjoining the ch. is an 
 ancient building, called Wigston’s 
 Hospital , which was erected by a 
 Leicester alderman of that name in 
 1512. It remains very much in its 
 original state, but is now unoccupied, 
 the inmates having been removed to 
 a new hospital on the Hinckley road. 
 
 A house in High-Cross Street, near 
 the ch., is traditionally said to have 
 formed part of a chantry attached to 
 St. Martin’s, called 44 the Chantry of 
 the Body of Christ,” and founded 
 temp. Edward III. 
 
 St. Margaret’s Ch. occupies the 
 site of the ancient Cathedral in the 
 8th centy., the bishopric having been 
 subsequently removed to Dorchester, 
 and then to Lincoln. Of this ch. 
 Leland writes, — “ S. Margaret’s is 
 thereby the fairest paroch ehirch of 
 Leicester, wher ons was cathedrile 
 chirch, and thereby the Bishop of 
 Lincoln had a palace, whereof a 
 little yet standeth.” It is of later 
 date than the other Leicester 
 churches. The chancel is fine Perp., 
 with a rich screen and stalls of the 
 same date ; but the E. bay of the 
 nave is E. E. The ch. consists of 
 nave, aisles, and chancel, with an 
 embattled Perp. tower, more than 
 100 ft. high. The interior has E. E. 
 pillars dividing the nave from the 
 aisles. Notice the Perp. E. window, 
 as also the carved niches. One of 
 these was once occupied by a figure 
 of the Virgin, supported by a figure 
 said to be intended for Robert Bossu, 
 
108 
 
 Route 19 . — Market Harborough to Leicester. 
 
 Earl of Leicester, ami founder of tlie 
 abbey ; the other contained St. Mar- 
 garet, the patron saint of the ch. 
 On the N. side of the chancel is the j 
 beautifully- vested and unmutilated 
 alabaster effigy of John Penny, 13p. 
 of Carlisle, and formerly abbot of 
 Leicester (d. 15*20). 
 
 The Castle , where the county busi- 
 ness is transacted, adjoins St. Mary’s 
 ch. {ante). It is but a small portion 
 of the ancient building, concealed 
 behind a modern brick front, and 
 consists of the great Hall , in which 
 several Parliaments have been held, 
 as in 1414, 14*20, and 1450. At the 
 S. end are 2 fine and lofty Norm, 
 windows and a door of the same 
 date. “Originally it was a large 
 apartment, with aisles formed by 
 two rows of oak pillars supporting 
 the roof, 5 on each side, 30 feet high, 
 with carved capitals. Only one of 
 them now remains entire.” It is 
 now divided into two courts, by 
 modern walls and passages. Close 
 adjoining is the Mount , an artificial 
 earthwork on which stood the keep 
 of the castle ; it has been consider- 
 ably lowered, and is now occupied 
 by a bowling-green, access to which 
 can be gained through an inn at 
 its foot. A portion of the walls 
 that enclosed the courtyard ran 
 round the Mount, and may still be 
 seen. In the 14tli centy. an additional 
 area, called the New' Work, or New- 
 arke , was added to this courtyard by 
 Henry Grismond, Duke of Lancaster, 
 the father-in-law of John of Gaunt, 
 and was connected with the former 
 enclosure by a turret gateway, still 
 existing, and worth notice. The 
 Newarke is entered from Oxford 
 Street, by another gateway, of mas- 
 sive proportions, forming part of a 
 building called the Magazine, from 
 the circmnstanec that the arms of 
 the trainbands were formerly kept 
 in it; it is now the Militia storehouse. 
 
 Of contemporary date with the 
 Newarke, and on the N. side of it, is 
 Trinity Hospital , also founded by 
 
 Henry of Lancaster, for 100 “poor 
 and w'eak men.” The present front, 
 however, is of the date of George III. 
 i At the E. end is the chapel, which 
 contains the elaborate monument of 
 Mary de Bohun, first wife of Henry 
 IV. The E. window is of 4 lancets, 
 which is very unusual. A curious 
 wooden alms-box, with a quaint in- 
 scription, and the date 1579, may 
 be noticed. Opposite the Hospital 
 stood a beautiful ch. dedicated to 
 “ our Lady of the Newarke,” by tho 
 same founder, where he and his 
 father, Constance the 2nd wife of 
 John of Gaunt, and other noble 
 persons, were interred; but not a 
 vestige remains of it, above ground. 
 
 The tourist should visit the New 
 Walk at the S.E. end of the town, 
 an exceedingly pleasant promenade 
 of half a mile in length, with an 
 avenue of trees. Notice the statue 
 of the Rev. Robert Hall. Here also 
 is tlie Town Museum , founded in 
 1849 by the joint exertions of the 
 Leicester Literary and Philosophical 
 Society and the Town Council, and 
 supported by a small rate levied 
 under the Museums Act of 1845. 
 The building was originally designed 
 for a proprietary school, and has a 
 heavy classic portico. It is open, 
 free, every day except Friday, and is 
 well worth a visit. In the grounds, 
 beside two Russian guns and a Me- 
 morial to Mr. Hollings, a local cele- 
 brity, is a matter of much interest 
 to the geologist. This is a column 
 about 20 ft. high, in which speci- 
 mens of all the solid strata found in 
 Leicestershire are arranged in duo 
 geological order. “At the base aro 
 the rocks of the granitic and meta- 
 morphic systems : above these the 
 Luureutian or Cambrian ; then tho 
 carboniferous, including fine ex- 
 amples of Leicestershire coal ; and 
 at the top of all, the triassic and 
 oolitic.” These specimens were 
 contributed by the owners of tho 
 various mines and quarries to tho 
 
Houte 20 . — Nuneaton to Leicester. 
 
 109 
 
 exhibition of the Royal Agricultural 
 Society held at Leicester in 1868, 
 and at its close were presented to 
 the Museum. Passing into the 
 building we observe the Roman 
 milestone (ante), some tesselated 
 pavements, sepulchral remains, Bri- 
 tish, Roman, and mediaeval objects 
 in metal, pottery, and glass, fossil 
 remains (principally saurians from 
 the limestone quarries of Barrow-on- 
 Soar, — Rte. 24), British birds, draw- 
 ings and photographs of old build- 
 ings in Leicester, some few royal 
 charters, &c. &c. A well-arranged 
 Handbook can be purchased in the 
 building. 
 
 The remains of Leicester Abbey lie 
 to the N. of the town, on the bank 
 of the Soar. The walls of the pre- 
 cinct are all that exist, and they now 
 enclose a nursery- ground, in which 
 is a fragment of a mansion erected 
 by one of the Cavendishes after the 
 suppression of the abbey. The walls 
 that overhang the river are rough and 
 ivy-clad, and have a very picturesque 
 appearance from the meadows on 
 E. ; the W. wall is of brick, in better 
 condition, and at the S. W. angle is 
 a very handsome niche, supposed to 
 be part of the work of Bishop Penny. 
 
 In 1143 Robert de Bellomont, 
 known as le Bossu, Earl of Leicester, 
 founded here a monastic establish- 
 ment of Black Canons, which was 
 afterwards enlarged by his daughter- 
 in-law Petronilla, of whom it was said 
 that after her death a plait of her 
 hair was used to suspend the chapel 
 lamp. The abbey speedily became 
 famous for its riches and its influence, 
 many of its abbots sitting in Parlia- 
 ment. It was, however, more cele- 
 brated for its visits from royal per- 
 sonages, who, in their progresses 
 northward, frequently lodged here. 
 Here also (1530) died Cardinal 
 Wolsey, who arrived a helpless in- 
 valid, on his way from York to Lon- 
 don, and entered the abbey never 
 to leave it. This incident is thus 
 related by Shakespeare : — 
 
 “ At last with easy roads he came to Leicester, 
 
 Lodged in the abbey; where the reverend 
 abbot, 
 
 With all his convent, honourably received 
 him; 
 
 To whom he gave these words — ‘ 0 Father 
 Abbot, 
 
 An old man, broken with the storms of 
 state, 
 
 Is come to lay his weary bones among ye ; 
 
 Give him a little earth for charity ! ’ 
 
 So went to bed, when eagerly his sickness 
 
 Pursued him still; and three nights after 
 this, 
 
 About the hour of eight (which he himself 
 
 Foretold should be his last), full of repent- 
 ance, 
 
 Continual meditations, tears, and sorrows. 
 
 He gave his honours to the world again, 
 
 His blessed part to heaven, and slept in 
 peace.” — Henry VIII. 
 
 The excursion to the abbey may 
 be prolonged for 1 m. to Beaumont 
 Leys , remarkable for its beautiful 
 curved avenue. 
 
 Distances. — Lutterworth, 13 m. ; 
 Syston, 4J ; Mount Sorrel, 7 ; Lough- 
 borough, 12 ; Bosworth Field, 14 ; 
 Bradgate Park, 6; Newtown Linford, 
 5 J ; Groby, 4 ; Ulverscroft Priory, 
 7 ; Charnwood Forest, 1 0 ; Belvoir 
 Castle via Melton, 27. 
 
 ROUTE 20. 
 
 NUNEATON TO LEICESTER, BY 
 HINCKLEY. [BOSWORTH FIELD.] 
 
 L. AND N.-W. RLY. 19£ m. 
 
 The Leicester branch of this 
 line furnishes accommodation to the 
 loom districts to the S.W. of Lei- 
 cester. From Nuneaton ( Handbook 
 for Warwickshire) the line runs to 
 Hinckley, crossing about halfway 
 the Watling Street, in its course to 
 Manvessedunum (Mancetter), which, 
 for a considerable distance, forms 
 the boundary between Leicester- 
 shire and Warwickshire. 
 
110 
 
 Itoufe 20 . — Nuneaton to Leicester . 
 
 4J m. Hinckley (Stat.), a busy 
 maiiufacturing town ( Inn : George), 
 the chief occupation of which is 
 coarse cotton stocking mukiug (Pop. 
 7000). It is divided into two liber- 
 ties, tlie Borough aud the Bond, and 
 has many good houses and two 
 churches. Its situation on an ele- 
 vated table* land is very line, and 
 the views extensive, more than 50 
 churches being believed to be visible. 
 A strong castle was founded here 
 by Hugh do Grentinesnil in the 
 reign or William Rufus; but it was 
 in ruin in Leland’s time, and a part 
 of the site is now occupied by the 
 house of the steward of the Crown 
 manor, the town being part of the 
 possessions of the duchy of Lan- 
 caster: the castle ditch, however, 
 may still be traced. Of the Priory 
 founded in the 12th cent., by Robert 
 Blanchemains, Earl of Leicester (“ so 
 called from the whiteness of his 
 hands’ \ nothing is left. St. Mary's 
 Ch. is a fine Early Perp. building, 
 with lofty tower, and spire of modern 
 construction ; its roof of carved oak 
 is very handsome. There is a brass 
 for a lady, 15th centy. ; and a monu- 
 ment with painted bust, which re- 
 minds the visitor of the Shake.' peare 
 bust at Stratford-on-Avon (M. H. 
 Bloxam.) Trinity Ch. is modern. 
 
 ** Mr. William Ilitfe introduced a 
 stocking- frame, which is said to 
 have cost 60/., into Hinckley, as 
 early as 1640, and with this single 
 frame, which, by the aid of an 
 apprentice, he kept constantly work- 
 ing day and night, ho gained a 
 comfortable subsistence for his 
 family; his immediate descendant, 
 Mr. Joseph Ilitfe, after having 
 carried on the manufacture thero 
 with considerable success, died in 
 1705. aged 76." 
 
 [An Excursion may be made by 
 road to Bosuorth Field from Hinck- 
 ley (4 m.), the way lying through 
 the villages of Stoke Golding (Stat) 
 (notice the handsome rerdored 
 Church , mainly E. E.) and Dadling- 
 
 ton ; or the spot may be reached by 
 rly. from Nuneaton 7 m.). The field 
 of battle, where Richard III. was 
 debated and killed, Aug. 22, 1485, 
 by Richmond, is situated nearly in 
 the centre of a lozenge-shaped area, 
 of which the angles are Market- 
 Bosworth, Shenton, Dadlington, and 
 Sutton Clieney, and is traversed by 
 the Ashby-de-la-Zouch Canal. Tho 
 White Moor, where Richmond’s 
 force encamped the night before tho 
 battle, is about jf m. to the S. of 
 Shenton (Stat.), while Richard en- 
 camped on Red Moor, on the banks 
 of the little stream between Dad- 
 lington and Stapleton. The battle 
 was fierce, but brief; its issue being 
 determined by the defection of the 
 Stanleys and their followers. Richard 
 killed Brandon, his opponent’s 
 standard-bearer, unhorsed Sir John 
 Cheyney, and was furiously seek- 
 ing to encounter Richmond himself, 
 when he was borne to the ground 
 and slain. The vivid picture of 
 the battle presented by Shakespeare 
 may well be quoted. ( Richard III. 
 Act V. Scene 4.) Catesby exclaims 
 to Norfolk : — 
 
 ** Rescue, my lord of Norfolk, rescue 
 
 rescue ! 
 
 The king enacts more wonders than a man, 
 Daring an opposite to every danger; 
 
 II is horse Is slain, and all on foot he fights. 
 Seeking for Richmond In the throat of 
 death ; 
 
 Rescue, fair lord, or else the day is lost ! " 
 
 Richard then rushes in, exclaiming 
 
 “A horse! a horse! my kingdom for a 
 horse ! 
 
 Catesby, Blinking that lie meditates 
 fiight, replies, 
 
 14 Withdraw, my lord. I'll help you to a 
 horse ; " 
 
 but is silenced by tho furious excla- 
 mation, 
 
 " Slave, I have set my life upon a cast. 
 
 And 1 will stand the hazaid of the die ! 
 i think there be six Richmonds in tbc field ; 
 Five have 1 slain to-day, instead of him. 
 
 A borne ! a horse ! my kingdom for a horse ! ** 
 
'Route 20 —Market Bosworth. — Elmesthorjpe 
 
 The loss on Richard’s side was 
 about 1000 men, including himself, 
 the Duke of Norfolk, Lord Ferrers, 
 Sir Richard Radcliff, and Sir Robert 
 Brackenbury. Oatesby was taken 
 prisoner, and beheaded. Richmond’s 
 loss is said not to have been more 
 than 100 ; but it must be remem- 
 bered that we have only Tudor 
 chroniclers. Richard’s crown being 
 found on the field of battle, Rich- 
 mond was invested with it at once 
 by Lord Stanley. 
 
 “ Courageous Richmond, well hast thou acquit 
 thee ! 
 
 Lo, here, these long-usurped royalties, 
 
 From the dead temples of this bloody 
 wretch, 
 
 Have 1 pluck’d off, to grace thy brows 
 withal ; 
 
 Wear it, enjoy it, and make much of it.” 
 
 A well on the field of battle, at 
 which it is said Richard refreshed 
 himself, is still called King Richard’s 
 Well. It was cleared out and re- 
 stored ill 1812 by Dr. Parr, who 
 wrote a Latin inscription for it. 
 There is also a spot known as 
 “ Dickon’s Nook,” which is evidently 
 connected with the same mo- 
 narch : — 
 
 “ Jockey of Norfolk, be not so bold, 
 
 For Dickon thy master is bought and sold.” 
 
 Overlooking the field of battle is 
 Shenton Hall (Major W oil aston), built 
 in 1629 by William Wollaston, a 
 member of that ancient family, who 
 acquired great wealth in London. 
 
 2 m. to the N. is the little town 
 of Market- Bosworth (Stat. on the 
 Ashby and Nuneaton line), which, 
 like all the others in the neighbour- 
 hood, is occupied in the hosiery 
 trade, and particularly in that of 
 worsted stockings. The Ch., a Perp. 
 building with tower and lofty spire, 
 has been restored; it contains a 
 curious font and monuments to the 
 family of Dixie, whose seat of 
 Bosworth Park (Sir A. B. Dixie, 
 Bart.) adjoins the town. Simpson 
 
 111 
 
 the mathematician was born here in 
 1710 ; and Salt the Abyssinian tra- 
 veller was educated in the Grammar 
 School, founded by one of the 
 Dixies; here Dr. Johnson was once 
 usher, but soon became disgusted 
 with the drudgery. 
 
 4 m. N.W., and near Shackerston 
 Stat., is Gopsall Hall, the seat 
 of Earl Howe. The house, which 
 was built by Charles Jennens, the 
 friend of Handel, at a cost of 
 100,000?., has a fine Corinthian front 
 of 180 ft. in length, with a portico 
 in the centre. The S. front has a 
 pediment, which bears in relief a 
 ship in a storm, introduced to com- 
 memorate the naval victories of Lord 
 Howe. Some original music by 
 Handel, who during his residence 
 here composed part of the ‘Mes- 
 siah’ and ‘Israel in Egypt,’ is pre- 
 served, as also the 4 first editions 
 and many of the quarto plays of 
 Shakspeare. In the library is a 
 stained-glass window, the work of 
 the Baroness Howe, the daughter of 
 the Admiral. The chapel is fitted 
 up with cedar of Lebanon, except 
 the carved legs of the altar, which 
 are of Boscobel oak ; the altarpiece 
 is the Crucifixion, by Vahdyck. 
 Among the paintings are, — Infant 
 Jesus Sleeping, Murillo; Landscape, 
 Claude ; Cattle, P. Potter ; Views in 
 Venice, Canaletti ; Angel restoring 
 sight to Tobit, Rembrandt; a full- 
 length portrait of Handel, by Hud- 
 son. The lodge was erected by Sir 
 J. Wyattville, after the model of the 
 Arch of Constantine. The deer- 
 park is 500 acres in extent, and con- 
 tains 300 deer.] 
 
 7| m. Elmesthorpe (Stat.). The 
 country about here is low and marshy, 
 traversed by the little river Nar, 
 a tributary of the Soar ; many rare 
 aquatic plants are found here. In 
 this place Richard III. is said to 
 have passed the night before the 
 battle of Bosworth, whilst other 
 
112 
 
 Route 21 . — Leicester to Bel voir. 
 
 accounts make him encamp on the 
 field. For many years tho tower 
 only of the ch. remained, large trees 
 growing within the ruined walls, 
 and the ch.-yard converted into a 
 otato field ; fortunately this has 
 een now remedied, and the edifioe 
 again fitted for divine worship. 2 m. 
 N. is the hosiery village of Lari 
 Shilton , the Ch. of which has been 
 restored, and tho interior decorated 
 with frescoes by the incumbent (Rev. 
 F. E. Tower). The mound remains 
 of a castle built by the Bellomont 
 Earls of Leicester, whence the name. 
 
 12 J m. Narburouah (Stat.) Here 
 is a Ch. of various dates, with a very 
 massive tower and a Norm, doorway, 
 E. E. sedilia and piscina. It has 
 been partially restored, and is well 
 worth a visit. 
 
 15 m. Blahy (Stat.), a busy place, 
 the inhabitants of which are chiefly 
 occupied in framework-knitting and 
 glove-making. Blaby Hall is the 
 residence of J. C. Allen, Esq. 
 
 19J m. Leicester (Stat.) (Rte. 
 19). 
 
 ROUTE 21. 
 
 LEICESTER TO BELVOIR, BY MELTON 
 MOWBRAY. 
 
 MIDLAND KLY. AND ROAD. 27 m. 
 
 We proceed on the main line us 
 far ns 
 
 4 J m. Sysfon Junction Stat., and 
 then turn off on rt. Syston is 
 a populous village, partly occupied 
 by stocking-makers, but having also 
 
 malthouses and gypsum quarries. 
 The church is large, with square 
 tower, and tho rood-loft hus esca^d 
 destruction. Here tho Leicester 
 and Peterborough branch runs off 
 on E., and ascends the valley of 
 the Wreak, being seldom far distant 
 from the river. Many of the villages 
 along the route will be noticed as 
 having their names terminating in 
 “ by/’ an evidence of Danish occu- 
 pation. 1 in. E. is Queniborough, a 
 pleasant-looking village, which has 
 a restored Dec. ch. with lofty spire. 
 Prince Rupert had his head-quarters 
 here at the siege of Leicester in 1G45. 
 
 7£ m. Rearsby (Stat.). The vil- 
 lage is a pretty rural-looking .place, 
 showing that the manufacturing dis- 
 trict has been left behind. 2 m. W. 
 is Ratcliffe on the Wreak. Here is 
 a Roman Catholic College, built by 
 Pugin , mainly at the expense of the 
 Duchess di Sforza, who is lady of 
 the manor. Her grandfather, tho 
 8th Earl Ferrers, added a tower and 
 spire to the parish ch. The Fosse 
 Way traverses the parish, and there 
 is a large barrow, called Shipley 
 Hill, 40 ft. high. 
 
 8J m. Brooksby (Stat.). This is 
 an agricultural parish, of very small 
 population. The ch. contains monu- 
 mental etligies of the Vilfierses, to- 
 gether with some old stained glass. 
 Brooksby JIall was formerly the seat 
 of that family, and was tho birth- 
 place of “ Steenie.” 
 
 I m. N. is Hoby , a primitive-look- 
 ing village, but with a well-oared- 
 for ch. ; and 2 m. farther N. at 
 Ragdale (properly, Wreak dale) is a 
 farmhouse, once the residence of tho 
 Earls Ferrers, whose arms are to bo 
 seen carved in the dining-room. 
 
 II m. Frisby (Stat.). Hero is a 
 late Norm, eh., dedicated to St. 
 Thomas Beckct, one tolerably per- 
 fect stone cross, and tho remains of 
 another, known as the Stump. There 
 is also a Norm. ch. in the adjoining 
 parish of Rotherbv. 
 
 12 m. As/ordby (Stat.). Tho 
 
113 
 
 Boute 21 . — Melton Mowbray. 
 
 village contains nothing calling for 
 notice ; but Asfordby Hall (Captain 
 H. Lowther) is a handsome building 
 in the Italian style. 
 
 4 m. N. is Wartnaby Hall (H. C. 
 Bingham, Esq.), where Charles II., 
 while on a royal progress, took 
 breakfast with Mr. Hacket, the then 
 owner. Kettleby Ch., a short dis- 
 tance E., has some interesting Norm, 
 details, and monuments to the family 
 of Digby. 
 
 At 13 m. is Kirby Bellars, where 
 was once an Augustinian priory. 
 The ch. is large and handsome, with 
 tower and lofty spire. Kirby Park, 
 a hunting-seat of the Burdett family, 
 is now a farmhouse. 
 
 15 m. Melton Mowbray (Stat.). 
 This is the Utopia of hunting-men 
 ( Hotels : Bell and Swan; George), 
 who will find in the accommodation 
 for man and beast, the famous packs 
 in the neighbourhood, and the cha- 
 racter of the country, everything 
 that they could wish for. Hunting 
 is the great employment of Melton 
 during the season, although it is 
 celebrated in a minor degree for its 
 Stilton cheese and pork-pies ; of the 
 latter upwards of two tons a week 
 are sent away by rail. Melton ob- 
 tained its appellation of Mowbray 
 from the barons of that name during 
 the Norman era. The original 
 grantee under the Conqueror was 
 Geoffry de Wirce, from whom the 
 lands passed to Nigel de Albini, 
 who took the name of Mowbray, 
 and transmitted the estates to a 
 line famous for ages for their states- 
 manship and military renown. Wil- 
 liam de Mowbray, the 4th Baron, 
 took a very prominent part in ob- 
 taining Magna Charta from King 
 John. A Cluniac cell once existed 
 here, subject to the Priory of Lewes 
 in Sussex, which at the Dissolution 
 was granted to Dudley, Earl of War- 
 wick, but of this there are no re- 
 mains. 
 
 JStj Mary's Church is a cathedral in 
 
 miniature, consisting of nave, aisles, 
 chancel, transepts, and a tower rising 
 from the intersection. A great mix- 
 ture of styles is apparent; the W. 
 front, the lower stage of the tower, 
 the four central piers and arches, 
 and some remains of capitals, being 
 of E. Eng. date. The S. transept is 
 rather later, as are the nave and 
 chancel, the latter dating about 
 1320. Both transepts have aisles. 
 The upper portion of the tower 
 and the clerestory are Perp. The 
 visitor should particularly notice 
 the beautiful porch at the W. end, 
 with its doorway and 8 niches ; 
 it is of the time of Edward II. 
 The clerestory also is extremely 
 graceful, and contains 48 windows, 
 each of 3 lights. The nave is se» 
 parated from the aisles by 6 pointed 
 arches with clustered columns. The 
 W. window, of 5 lights, is parti- 
 cularly fine. There is a tomb in the 
 S. aisle, with a recumbent cross- 
 legged figure, which an inscription 
 tells us is Lord Hamon Belers, 
 brother of Lord Mowbray ; but 
 Mr. North, in his paper on the 
 Mowbrays (in the ‘ Transactions of 
 the Leicestershire Antiquarian So- 
 ciety ’), has shown that this can 
 hardly be, as Hamon died at least 
 100 years before the ch. was built. 
 Another tomb of Purbeck marble, 
 once had a brass, and there is a 
 curious brass , on which is inscribed a 
 heart, placed by Bartholomew Ton- 
 son, vicar of the ch. in 1543, in 
 memory of his parents. For the 
 last 20 years the work of restoring 
 this noble ch. has been carried on, 
 with satisfactory results, but much 
 still remains to be done. There are 
 several modern painted windows, of 
 which that by Wailes (the E.) is 
 very fine. In the Roman Catholic 
 chapel, a work of Pugin , some good 
 stained glass is also to be seen. 
 
 Opposite the ch. is the Maison 
 Dieu, or “Hudson’s Bede-house,” 
 built 1641 ; it has several aged in- 
 mates, but a part of the building is 
 
114 
 
 Route 21 . — Leicester to Belvoir. 
 
 used as a Museum, the treasures of 
 which maybe inspected for the fee 
 of 3d. 
 
 Among natives of Melton may be 
 named John de lvirkby, a justice 
 itinerant, t. Hen. III. ; William de 
 Melton, Archbishop of York (d. 
 1340) ; and Orator Henley (b. 1692), 
 who was also curate here. 
 
 At the entrance of the town is 
 Egerton Lodge, the hunting residence 
 of the Earl of Wilton. 
 
 1 J m. S. from Melton is the village 
 of Burton- Lazar 8, so called from its 
 once possessing “a rich hospital, to 
 the master of which all the lesser 
 lazar-houses in England were in some 
 sort subject, as he himself was to 
 the master of lazars in Jerusalem. 
 It is said to have been built at 
 first by the Normans, by a general 
 collection throughout England, blit 
 chic fly by the assistance of the Mow- 
 brays, about which time the leprosy 
 (by some called Elephantiasis) did 
 run by infection all over England. 
 And it is believed that the disease 
 did then first come into this island 
 out of Egypt, which more than once 
 had spread itself into Europe ; first 
 in the days of Pompey the Great, 
 afterwards under Heraclius, but 
 never before that time did it appear 
 in England.” — - Camden. A bath 
 famous for the cure of scrofulous 
 diseases was opened here in 1760, 
 but owing to the well having become 
 dried up, is now disused. Traces 
 of the hospital site are visible near 
 the C7i., which has a rather curious 
 bell-turret, that appears to have been 
 erected with the view of securing a 
 failing western wall. The nave is 
 Trans.-Norm., and the aisles are 
 Decorated. 
 
 [The district to the S. of Melton 
 is interesting, from containing many 
 villages which in name and remains 
 betoken their Roman origin. The 
 chief of these is Burrow , 6 m. distant, 
 where ])ortions of the walls of a large 
 encampment, 20 feet high, still exist. 
 
 The eh., too, is interesting, and pos- 
 sesses some inscribed bells and a 
 monument of the 15th centy. to Sir 
 William Stockton and his wife. 
 
 5 m. S.W., on the road from Lei- 
 cester to Uppingham, is Billesdon , 
 where there is another camp occu- 
 pying several acres. The village is 
 irregular and scattered, which has 
 given rise to the Leicestershire pro- 
 verb : “In and out like Billesdon.” 
 It is situated on a small stream, 
 called the Billesdon Brook, celebrated 
 in hunting annals as the scene of a 
 tremendous leap by Assheton Smith. 
 The village was once a market-town, 
 and the cross remains ; the ch. has a 
 lofty spire. There is a free school, 
 buiit in 1650, in the place of one in 
 which it is said that both Yilliers, 
 Duke of Buckingham, and George 
 Fox, the Quaker, were educated. 
 Near Billesdon is the Coplouj (0. T. 
 Freer, Esq.), near which is a very 
 noted fox-cover. Laund Ahbey and 
 Withcnt Hall , both fine Elizabethan 
 mansions, lie some distance E., on 
 the border of the county. The 
 former contains some remains of tho 
 religious house founded by Richard 
 Bassett in 1125. 
 
 About midway between Billesdon 
 and Burrow is Loseby Hall , the seat 
 of Sir F. T. Fowke, and anciently 
 a possession of the Burdett family. 
 A legend says that Wdliam Bur- 
 dett, “on his return from the Cru- 
 sades, urged by the slanders of some 
 miscreant retainer, slew his innocent 
 and unsuspecting lady ; to atone for 
 which fatal error he founded the 
 monastery of Arrow.” — Burke. Tho 
 Hutchinsons afterwards held Ix>se- 
 by, and Mrs. Hutchinson here wrote 
 a great part of her Memoir of her 
 husband. A portrait of Gen. Ircton 
 still exists here.'] 
 
 4 m. E. of Melton Mowbray, and 
 near the Saxby Stnt., is Stapleford 
 Hall (Countess of Harborongh), on 
 the hanks of the river Eye. The front 
 of tho house, which is of different 
 dates (from 1500 to 1776), has 
 
Route 22. — Leicester to Burton. 
 
 115 
 
 square-headed mullioned windows, 
 and is decorated with 15 statues of 
 ancestors of the Sherards, Earls 
 of Harborough, among whom Wil- 
 liam the Conqueror figures. The Ch. 
 is indifferent Gothic, rebuilt 1783, 
 and lias the Sherard and other arms 
 outside. In the interior are some 
 Sherard monuments from the old ch., 
 with a brass to Geoffrey and Joyce 
 Sherard, with 14 children (1490). 
 
 At Melton the visitor to Belvoir 
 leaves the rly. and betakes himself to 
 the road, which becomes picturesque 
 as it approaches the high ground 
 known as the Leicestershire Wolds. 
 
 17 m. Thorpe- Arnold, a small vil- 
 lage, had once a castle, built by 
 Arnold de Blois, of which no trace 
 remains. The font in the ch. is 
 Norm. 
 
 20 m. Waltham-on-the- Wolds has 
 a large and handsome (restored) 
 cruciform ch., E. E. and Dec., with 
 lofty central tower and spire; there 
 are also some carved stalls and a 
 good font. 
 
 24 m. Croxton Kyriel , once fa- 
 mous for its house of Praemonstra- 
 tensian canons, built here in the 
 reign of Henry II. by Sir Andrew 
 Luttrell, but at present better known 
 for the Croxton Park Races, held 
 annually in the park of the Duke of 
 Rutland, who had at one time a 
 hunting seat here, now pulled down. 
 About 3 m. to the E. is Saltby 
 Heath , on which are the remains of 
 2 barrows and a singular earthwork, 
 consisting of a wide ditch, running 
 parallel with a vallum formed of the 
 earth excavated from it. This is 
 called King Lud’s Intrenchment, 
 and is in all probability Danish. 
 
 [Between Croxton and Grantham 
 is Harlaxton Manor (J. S. Gregory, 
 Esq.), in Lincolnshire, built by the 
 late De Ligne Gregory, Esq., who 
 was in part his own architect. The 
 exterior of the house is in the most 
 elaborate style of the Jacobean era, 
 while the interior is fitted up after 
 
 the Louis Quatorze fashion, and it 
 contains, among other beautiful 
 ornaments, some excellent Gobelins 
 tapestry. The terraced gardens and 
 conservatory are exquisite in their 
 way, as is also the village, the cot- 
 tages of which are picturesque, with- 
 out being too ornate. 
 
 6 m. S., just within the Leicester- 
 shire border, is Buckminster , where 
 the tower and spire of the Perp. 
 ch. deserve notice. Buckminster Hull 
 (Earl of Dysart) is a classic edifice.] 
 
 27 m. Belvoir Castle. (Rte. 12.) 
 
 ROUTE 22. 
 
 LEICESTER TO BURTON, BY ASHBY- 
 DE-LA-ZOUCH. 
 
 MIDLAND KAIL WAY. 30 \ 1U. 
 
 This route skirts the forest of 
 Charnwood at too great a distance 
 to give any good idea of the romantic 
 character of that district. The 
 tourist is therefore advised to sup- 
 plement it by a walk or drive 
 through the Forest, as hereafter indi- 
 cated. (Rte. 23.) 
 
 On leaving Leicester the line at 
 first runs S. for about 2 m., and 
 turns W., passing Braunstone House 
 (G-. Pochin, Esq.). It reaches at 
 5J m. Kirby Muxloe (Stat.), where is 
 a small ancient ch. The ivy-clad 
 remains of a slightly fortified manor- 
 house (misnamed a -castle) of the 
 time of Henry VII. or VIII., are 
 very picturesque. It is of brick 
 with stone dressings, and the moat 
 remains perfect. It was built by 
 one of the Hastings family, was 
 
116 
 
 Route 22 . — Leicester to Burton. 
 
 used rather as a residence than as a 
 place of defence, and was entered 
 by a gateway ilanked by two towers, 
 to the rt. of which was another 
 square tower of three stories. 
 
 8 m. Desford (Stat.). This is a 
 stocking-making village, with a good 
 Perp. ch. It is part of the posses- 
 sions of the Duchy of Lancaster, and 
 the Queen is lady of the manor. 
 Here the old Leicester and Swanning- 
 ton colliery line from the West Bridge 
 Stat., Leicester, falls in. It is, in 
 some measure, used also for pas- 
 senger traffic, and has stats, at Glen- 
 field and Ratby. Near the latter 
 place is an early entrenchment, of 
 considerable size, known as Bury 
 Camp, and the ch. is large and hand- 
 some. 2 m. W. of Desford is the 
 village of Newbold Verdon ; the 
 ancient Hall was successively the 
 residence of Lord Crewe, Bishop of 
 Durham (who built and endowed 
 the school), and Lady Mary Wortley 
 Montagu. 
 
 12 J m. Bagxcortli (Stat.). Here the 
 Leicestershire colliery district may be 
 said to begin. 2 m. W. is Ibstock 
 (Stat.), a living once held by Laud. 
 
 14£ m. Bardon Hill (Stat.). The 
 colliery village of Hugglescote (Stat.) 
 is 1 m. W. At about the same dis- 
 tance E. rises Bardon Hill , a cele- 
 brated midland eminence, covered 
 with trees, and crowned with a 
 summer-house. Though only 852 ft. 
 above the sea-level, it commands views 
 of the Shropshire and Derbyshire 
 hills, and even, it is said, of the 
 Sugarloaf in Monmouthsliire. To the 
 N. the tourist obtains a good view of 
 the broken uplands of Charnwood 
 Forest, ut the base of which runs 
 the road from Markfield to Ashbv 
 through Whitwick (Rte. 23). Accord- 
 ing to the old legend, a man might 
 once have walked from Beaumanoir 
 to Bardon without seeing the sun, 
 so thick was the forest ; but at pre- 
 sent rocks are more plentiful than 
 trees. Bardon Hill is on privato 
 property, but is open twice a week 
 
 to the public, as to which informa- 
 tion can be obtained at any of the 
 inns at Ashby. 
 
 1 m. from Bardon, at Donnington - 
 on-the-IIeathy is a mansion of the 
 13th centy., once the seat of William 
 de Sees, consisting of an oblong 
 square, with projecting buildings on 
 the N. side. The details afford good 
 examples of the domestic architec- 
 ture of the time of Henry III. 
 
 1G m. Coalville (Stat.). This is a 
 populous village that has sprung up 
 of late years with the extension of 
 the collieries. It contains many good 
 houses and shops, and the ch. is a 
 handsome structure, floored with 
 encaustic tiles and very neatly kept. 
 This is the nearest stat. to the 
 modern Abbey of Mount St. Bernard 
 (Rte. 23). 
 
 17 m. Sicanington (Stat.). This is 
 one of several ecclesiastical districts 
 formed out of the large parish of 
 Whitwick. The church is a very 
 plain building, and the place is alto- 
 gether black and grimy, being situ- 
 ated in the very heart of the col- 
 lieries. This was the terminus of 
 Robert Stephenson’s first railway, 
 which is now incorporated with the 
 Midland system. 
 
 21 m. Ashby-de-la-Zouch (Stat.). , 
 Ashby is a well-built, thriving town 
 {Hotels: Queen’s Head; Royal), de- j 
 pending partly on the neighbouring \ 
 coal-works and partly on its baths < 
 and waters, which have gained a high 
 reputation for the cure of rheumatic j 
 complaints. The termination of “ by ” ] 
 denotes its Danish origin, but it re- j 
 ceived its distinctive appellation from * 
 a certain Alan de Zouch, a Breton j 
 baron, who married the heiress of tho I 
 manor in the reign of Henry III. ‘ 
 It was granted in 14G1 by Edward 
 IV. to his chamberlain, William Lord j 
 Hastings, beheaded in the Tower, in 
 1483. The manor descended in tho , 
 female line with Hastings’s estates < 
 and baronies to the late Marquis, but 
 the male blood of Hastings is renre- i 
 sented by the Earl of Huntingdon. 
 
117 
 
 . 'Route 22-Asliby-de-la-Zoucli. 
 
 The Chamberlain built (about 1474) 
 the greater part of the castle, on the 
 S. side of the town, now in ruins, 
 but preserved from further decay by 
 timely repairs. The principal por- 
 tions remaining are the tower (all 
 but the S. side), to the summit of 
 which there is a winding staircase; 
 the chapel ; an upper room, contain- 
 ing a good mantelpiece; the great 
 hall, the masonry of part of which 
 is supposed to date from the reign 
 of John ; and the kitchen tower, 
 with its fireplace and chimney. The 
 visitor will scarce need to be re- 
 minded that this castle is the locale 
 of some of the most striking scenes 
 in Sir Walter Scott’s ‘ Ivanhoe.' 
 The great tower has a sculptured 
 fireplace in the top story, and on the 
 outside a canopy, within which is the 
 Hastings arms. To the E. of the 
 tower is the courtyard. The chapel, 
 now roofless, was lighted by 4 beau- 
 tiful Dec. windows on each side. To 
 the E. of the castle is a triangular 
 building, called the Mount-house, 
 which was connected with the kitchen 
 tower by a subterranean passage. 
 Mary Queen of Scots was lodged in 
 the castle for a night in her hasty 
 removal to Coventry in 1569, in con- 
 sequence of the Northern rebellion, 
 and it was visited by James I. and 
 his Queen, who were magnificently 
 entertained in 1603. It was gar- 
 risoned and defended for Charles 
 during the civil war ; but was taken, 
 and dismantled by the order of Par- 
 liament. 
 
 The Ch ., dedicated to St. Helen, 
 is Perp., and consists of nave, aisles, 
 and chancel, with a fine western 
 tower. On the S. side of the chancel, 
 which is divided from the body of 
 the ch. by a beautiful carved screen, 
 is the burial chapel of the Hastings 
 family, in which is a monument to 
 Lady Catherine Hastings, in the 
 dress of the 16th centy. Selina Lady 
 Huntingdon, the friend of Whitefield 
 and Wesley, was buried here in 1791, 
 “ in the white silk dress in which she 
 
 opened the chapel in Goodman's 
 Fields.” Here is also a monument 
 with effigies of Francis, 2nd Earl of 
 Huntingdon, and his lady, 1561, and 
 others, to the 7th and 9th Earls ; but 
 the most remarkable of all is “the 
 Pilgrim monument," as it is styled, 
 and which is considered to be per- 
 fectly unique. It is of the 15th cent. ; 
 is placed under a depressed ogee 
 arch, and represents a man clad in 
 the sclavine, or pilgrim's robe, but 
 evidently a person of consideration, 
 as the collar of S. S. appears round 
 the neck. — (M. H. Bloxam .) Notice 
 also the alabaster slab of the Mundys 
 in the S. aisle, and the bust of Mrs. 
 Margery Wright, 1623, remarkable 
 for its quaintness and simplicity. At 
 the W. end of the N. aisle is a finger 
 pillory, an instrument for the punish- 
 ment of those who were disorderly 
 in church, consisting of a horizontal 
 beam opening with a hinge, with 
 grooves for inserting the fingers in it. 
 
 On the S. side of the town are the 
 Ivanlioe Baths , a handsome building, 
 with a pump-room (used also for 
 balls), swimming baths, a plunge 
 bath, &c., supplied from the Moira 
 mines, a distance of 3 miles. They 
 are chiefly used for bathing, but the 
 water possesses aperient qualities, 
 and is useful in chronic cases of 
 scrofula, skin diseases, dyspepsia, &c. 
 It contains muriate of soda (sea 
 salt) and muriate of magnesia with 
 bromine. “ The water is conducted 
 by numerous channels into a subter- 
 ranean reservoir, at a depth of 1000 
 feet; from this it is raised by a 
 powerful atmospheric engine, and 
 poured into large square tanks, con- 
 structed for the purpose, and conveyed 
 by rail to Ashby, where it is at once 
 transferred to an underground re- 
 servoir, capable of containing 2000 
 butts.” — Barker. . Near the bath- 
 house, surrounded by agreeable plea- 
 sure-grounds, is the Royal Hotel, a 
 well-managed establishment. 
 
 About 1 m. to the W. of the town is 
 a small plain, which is supposed to 
 
118 
 
 Route 22 . — Leicester to Burton. 
 
 have been the scene of “ the gentle 
 passage of arms/' go graphically de- 
 scribed by Sir W. Scott, in ‘ Ivunhoe 
 * 4 An extensive meadow, of the finest 
 and most beautiful green turf, sur- 
 rounded on one side by the forest, and 
 fringed on the other by straggling 
 oak-trees, some of which hud grown 
 to un immense size/* The Lards of 
 Ashby were great patrons of these 
 tournaments, and the field of Ashby 
 was one of the most noted in Eng- 
 land. 
 
 Ashby is situated in the centre of 
 the Leicestershire coal-field, which, 
 however, just here presents no work- 
 able coals. The whole field seems to 
 have been thrown up by the upburst 
 of syenitic rocks scattered over the 
 Charnwood district. 
 
 Joseph Hall, Bishop of Exeter and 
 Norwich, was bom in 1574 at Prestop 
 Park, in the parish of Ashby. 
 
 3$ m. N. is Staunton Harold Hall 
 (Earl Ferrers). See lite. 2. 
 
 23 J m. Over Seal and Moira 
 (Stat.). Thia is a great colliery 
 stat., situated on the southern slopo 
 of the high grounds known as Ashby 
 Wolds, whence a line ruus to Nunea- 
 ton, through Market Bosworth (Rte. 
 20 ). 
 
 “ In the main coal of Moira, espe- 
 cially in the Bath colliery, at a depth 
 of 503 ft., salt water, beautifully clear, 
 and of nearly the same composition as 
 sea-water, trickles down from the fis- 
 sures whence the coal is extracted. 
 The brine is carried to Ashby-de-la- 
 Zouch in tanks, and is considered 
 highly beneficial in scorbutic and 
 rheumatic affections.” — Hull. In this 
 locality there are 12 workable scams 
 of coal averaging about 55 ft. in 
 thickness, the main coal section 
 being 14 ft. The bods below these 
 are not yet proved. M A singular 
 pat) i way, called Leicester Headland , 
 runs across the Wolds near Moira, 
 in a direction nearly E. and W., 
 about 10 feet wide, and raise! 
 throughout with a clear red gravel, 
 which must have been brought 
 
 from some distance, as no such 
 gravel is found in the neighbour- 
 hood. Tradition states that this 
 is part of a road which origin- 
 ally stretched from Leicester to 
 Stapcnhill, at which latter place it 
 is also stated that one of the earliest 
 Christian churches was built, and 
 that burials took place there from 
 Leicester. It may, however, havo 
 been a passage from the abbey at 
 Leicester to that at Burton-on- 
 Trent/’— Mammatt. 
 
 3 m. S.W. lies Nether Seal, with 
 a good E. E. church, which contains 
 a 15 th-cen ty. monument to Koger 
 Dough ton, once rector. Over Seal , 
 an adjoining hamlet, has a very 
 handsome modern E. E. chapel of 
 ease. The line passes into Derby- 
 shire, before reaching at 
 
 25} m. Gredey (Stat.). Church 
 Gresley is a busy place, with col- 
 lieries, potteries, and firebrick works. 
 The eh. is Norm., with monuments 
 to the Gresley family, one of whom 
 founded an Augustinian priory here, 
 temp. Henry I. 4 m. N. is Bretby 
 Bark (Countess of Carnarvon). The 
 estate of Bretby formerly belonged 
 to the Berkeley family, and came to 
 the Stanhopes by purchase in the 
 16th centy. The house is a modern 
 castellated building, not later than 
 the beginning of the present centy., 
 to which a handsome dining - hall 
 was added in 1871. The park is of 
 great extent, and many charming 
 views are to be obtained in it 
 
 Passing between Drahelow II all , 
 formerly the seat of Sir H. Des 
 Vceux, Bart., on S., and Stapenhill, 
 with a handsome ch. on N., the line 
 soon after crosses the Trent, and 
 enters at 
 
 80 J m. Burton-on- Trent (Stat.). 
 (Itte. 28). 
 
119 
 
 Boute 23 . — Ashby-de- 
 
 EOUTE 23. 
 
 ASHBY-DE-LAZOUCH TO LEICESTER, 
 through charnwood forest. 
 [ST. BERNARDS MONASTERY, 
 BRADGATE PARK.] 
 
 BY ROAD. 18 m. 
 
 Leaving Ashby by the Lough- 
 borough road, we reach at 2 in. the 
 village of Coleorton, on the summit 
 of a picturesque ridge. Coleorton Hall 
 (Sir G-. H. Beaumont, Bart.) is a fine 
 stone building, with classic portico. 
 The house, which is not shown, was 
 built by the late baronet, so well 
 known for his accomplishments' and 
 his liberal bequest of pictures to 
 the national collection. It contains 
 some good paintings, and a sculpture 
 of “ Psyche borne by the Zephyrs,” 
 by Gibson. The family of Beau- 
 mont, of which Sir George is the 
 representative (although the barony 
 has passed to heirs female), ranks 
 with those of Courtenay and Field- 
 ing in descending from royal stock. 
 Lewis Beaumont, Bishop of Dur- 
 ham, and his brother, ancestor of 
 the baronet (and who obtained 
 Whitwick and part of the adjacent 
 estates by marriage with the heiress 
 of Comyn, Earl of Buchan), were 
 cousins by male descent from St. 
 Louis the French King, and settled 
 in England in the reigns of Edward 
 I. and II. Several of Wordsworth’s 
 poems were written in this house, 
 together with the inscription on a 
 tablet in the grounds : — 
 
 “ Tk’ embow’ring rose, the acacia, and the 
 pine 
 
 Will not unwillingly their place resign, 
 
 If hut the cedar thrive that near them 
 stands, 
 
 Planted by Beaumont’s and by Words- 
 worth's hands.” 
 
 The gardens are very pretty, and 
 are shown daily till 5 o’clock. They 
 
 la-Zouch to Leicester . 
 
 are adorned wdth memorials to Sir 
 Joshua Reynolds, and Beaumont 
 the dramatic writer. The terrace 
 commands views of great beauty, 
 embracing the towers of Bel voir, 
 some 30 miles off. 
 
 The Church contains some curious 
 monuments of the Beaumont family. 
 It has been restored and enlarged 
 in admirable taste, and the visitor 
 should particularly notice the E. 
 window by Hardman , the subject of 
 which is the Transfiguration; also 
 some stained glass brought from 
 Rouen by a former baronet. 
 
 The village is a very clean, plea- 
 sant-looking place, with some newly- 
 built almshouses of ornamental cha- 
 racter. The prefix “ Cole ” appears 
 to be due to the reign of Henry YIII., 
 when the collieries in this parish 
 were first worked. The coal-seams 
 of this eastern district cannot be 
 identified with those of Moira, al- 
 though they are probably synchro- 
 nous. 
 
 Crossing Coleorton Moor, on which 
 is a very plain modern church, we 
 reach at 5| m. Whitwick , “where 
 a remarkable bed of whinstone or 
 greenstone intervenes between the 
 coal-measures and the New Red sand- 
 stone. In one of the shafts of Whitwick 
 colliery it is 60 ft. thick, and has 
 turned to cinders a seam of coal with 
 which it comes into contact. It has 
 evidently been poured out as a sheet 
 of lava over the denuded surface of 
 the coal-measures at some period prior 
 to that of the trias.” — Hull. The 
 
 manor, which was very extensive, be- 
 longed to the Norman earls of Lei- 
 cester, and was by Edward I. granted 
 to one of his Scottish partisans, 
 Comyn, Earl of Buchan. There are 
 some slight traces of the castle, 
 which belonged to the Duchy of 
 Lancaster. The Ch. (restored) is a 
 fine building, of various dates, with 
 a very solid-looking low square 
 tower. On an altar-tomb is a muti- 
 lated figure in armour, upwards of 
 7 ft. long, said to be in memory of 
 
120 
 
 Route 23. — Ashby-de-la-Zouch to Leicester. 
 
 Sir John Talbot, of Swannington, a 
 man of gigantic stature. 
 
 [1 $ m. to the of Whitwirk on 
 the Ixiughborongh rend is (trace 
 Dieu Manor, the handsome modern 
 seat (with chapel attached) of A. L. 
 Phillipps de Lisle, Eoq n a patron of 
 the Roman Catholic movement in this 
 country. 44 This family is descended 
 from Fitzazor and Jordanus de Insula 
 or Do L isle, who received the grant 
 of the lordship of Wordy ton in the 
 Isle of Wight from the Conqueror 
 in 1009. They inherited the lord- 
 ships of Gnrcndnn and (trace Dieu 
 from the Phillipps family, which 
 became extinct in 1777, when they 
 assumed that name/’ — Watford. 
 The chapel contains two beautiful 
 stained glass windows representing 
 the legend of St. Elizabeth of Hun- 
 gary. and the Lord’s Supper. At a 
 short distance from the house, and 
 well seen from the high mad, are the 
 scanty but picturesque ruins of the 
 old .Vunncry of Grace Dieu, founded 
 1236-42 by the Lady llocsia dc 
 Vertlon, and suppressed in 1539, 
 complaints having been made of 
 certain irregularities on ^he part of 
 the inmatc*s. Wordsworth alludes 
 to it thus, in lines written at Cole- 
 orton : — 
 
 •* fWn^stb yon '***U*m rid#**, th* crmjrcY bmmd, 
 
 Kuftxrd and high, of Chsmwood't forest 
 Sixmnd, 
 
 Sund yet, bat, sirangrr, bidden from thy 
 virw. 
 
 The Ivied rains of forlorn Groce Pica.” 
 
 The boundary of the gitnlcn, made 
 by the nuns to resemble that of 
 Gcthwraane. may yet tie traced. At 
 the Dissolution the house passed 
 into the hands of the Ib-numnoU, 
 and hem the dramatist Francis Ihnu- 
 mont, the colleague of Fletcher, was 
 bom in 1586 . In the rhumb of JUt- 
 ton, 2 m. to the X . is the tomb and 
 recumbent effigy of the Isidy Horaia. 
 removed from Grace Dim at the 
 I>i"* lution ] 
 
 [1 m. E. of Whitwirk is tie .Vtbcy 
 
 of Mount St. Bernard, a Cistercian 
 monastery , originally founded in 1835 
 at a short distance S., but removal 
 to the present sito in 1839. Mr. 
 Ambrose Phillipps de Lisle gavo 
 230 acres of rough forest land, wlu ro 
 six monks established themselves, 
 gradually brought the ground into 
 cultivation, and erected some hum- 
 ble buildings. In 1839 tho Earl of 
 Shrewsbury gave the sum of 2000/., 
 when the present structure was com- 
 menced ; and was formally ojioncd 
 on the feast of St. Ik-mard. August 
 20, 1844. It is tlve first abbey com- 
 pleted by the Roman Catholics in 
 England since the Reformation, and 
 one of tho few sjiots where a monastic 
 life may lx* witnessed without crossing 
 the Channel. Fair accommodation 
 for visitors may be obtained at an 
 establishment styled the Forest Rock 
 Hotel in the immediate neighbour- 
 hood. 
 
 The buildings of the Abbey oc- 
 cupy a lofty site in the midst of a 
 spot formerly a desert, on the 8. 
 base of a hare rock, now converted 
 into a Calvary, which is n conspicu- 
 ous object from afar. They were 
 designed by Bug in in the simple 
 and severe stylo of tho E. E.. and 
 consist of the conventual buildings 
 and cloisters, with the nave of a eh., 
 to be extended, ns funds will admit, 
 by the addition of choir and transepts. 
 A Gothic open screen w jmintcs tho 
 tern pomry choir from tlint |*irt of tho 
 ch. open to tho public. The Abl>oy 
 is occupied by nlxiut 60 monks of tho 
 Cistercian Older, founded by the 
 Englishman Stephen Harding. They 
 observe per|x'tual silence, employ 
 themselves in husbandry, and have 
 redeemed the neighbouring waste 
 land by their industry, and brought 
 it into cultivation. The estate of the 
 mnnosterv consists of an upland plat- 
 form of about 300 acre* sloping gently 
 to the N.. and surrounded bv a 
 natural harrier nr |«di*ndo of the 
 granite ]« aks of Cluimwond Fun ‘-t, 
 through which a breach has been nit 
 
121 
 
 j Route 23. — Ulverscroft Priory . 
 
 for entrance. The approach is through 
 well-kept grounds, open to all, and 
 here, in advance of the church, stand 
 the gate-house and guest-chambers ; 
 the former serves also as an Hos- 
 pice, where the poor are daily fed. 
 Ladies are not allowed to penetrate 
 beyond these out-buildings, hut male 
 visitors, on application at the porter’s 
 lodge, are most courteously received 
 by the guest-master, and are con- 
 ducted through the cloisters to the 
 ch., the chapter-house (in which is a 
 brass for the first abbot), the library, 
 museum, refectory, &c. The ceme- 
 tery is a very beautiful flower-decked 
 spot. Several useful trades are 
 carried on in the precincts of the 
 monastery, even to tailoring and gas- 
 making. 
 
 At a short distance is the Reform- 
 atory, which occupies the site of 
 the former abbey, but has been 
 almost rebuilt to adapt it to its 
 present purpose. It was opened in 
 1856 for the reception of juvenile 
 criminals, the children of Roman 
 Catholic parents, and has at various 
 times attracted a good deal of public 
 attention. It is managed by a com- 
 mittee, who describe it as “essen- 
 tially a school of industry, the in- 
 mates being chiefly employed in 
 farm and garden labour, and in 
 training for the merchant service” 
 (Report, 1870); they average 270 in 
 number, costing about 22 1. each. 
 
 1 m. E. of the Monastery is the 
 Oaks Chapel, the first of the cl lurches 
 built after the enclosure of Cham- 
 wood Forest. It was consecrated on 
 the 18th June, 1815, and is hence 
 commonly known as “Waterloo 
 Church.” 1 s m. S.E. is Charley 
 Hall, now a farmhouse, which occu- 
 pies the site of a small religious 
 house, united to Ulverscroft Priorv 
 in 1405.] 
 
 Returning to the main road, we 
 pass, at 2 m. from Whitwick and7f m. 
 from Ashby, Abbot’s Oak , a modern 
 mansion, which pr. serves the memory 
 
 [ 'Derby , Notts, Leic., & Staff.] 
 
 of one of the old forest trees ; and at 
 3 , m. reach cross roads, where once 
 stood the famous Copt Oak , a place 
 of assembly where the forest courts 
 were held, and where the Parliamen- 
 tarian Earl of Stamford mustered the 
 train bands of the district in 1642. 
 A very plain modem ch. now marks 
 the site. 
 
 1 m. E. of Copt Oak, and remote 
 from the high road, are the very pic- 
 turesque remains of Ulverscroft Priory , 
 founded by Robert Blanchmains, Earl 
 of Leicester, in the reign of Henry II. 
 for Augustinian hermits. It is the 
 finest ecclesiastical ruin in Leicester- 
 shire, but little of the original struc- 
 ture remains, the present remains 
 being Dec. They mainly consist of 
 a tower, still 60 ft. high, of later 
 date than the rest of the ch., which 
 communicates with the nave by a 
 lofty pointed arch. In the interior 
 of the tower are traces of three 
 apartments, on different levels, ap- 
 parently intended as cells for recluses 
 of the order. The S. wall of the 
 chancel is standing, in which 3 stone 
 sedilia remain, and there are some 
 traces of a chapter-house and cloisters. 
 Several of the Lords Ferrars of Groby 
 were interred in the ch., but none of 
 their monuments remain. A large 
 part of the Prior’s lodgings still 
 exists, converted into agricultural 
 buildings. The priors of Ulverscroft 
 were persons of great importance; 
 “ they kept their hounds and hawks ; 
 they employed a ranger, a huntsman, 
 and a falconer; they had a wood- 
 house, and seven woodmen constantly 
 employed in cutting firewood for the 
 house; they brewed ten quarters of 
 malt weekly ; they kept open house 
 for all visitors and wayfarers ; they 
 maintained all the poor in the sur- 
 rounding parishes, and had at one 
 time 300 beasts, 1000 sheep, and 300 
 swine on the forest.” 
 
 At 10J m. the lower road from 
 j Ashby, through Hugglescote (Rte. 
 
 G 
 
122 
 
 Route 23 . — Ashby -de-la- Zouch to Leicester. 
 
 22). comes in. The adjoining village 
 of Markfidd has extensive granite 
 quarries. Markfield Knoll and 
 Markfield Clift* Hill, isolated masses 
 of syenite, though scarcely 500 ft. 
 high, are very picturesque objects, 
 and command extensive views. 
 
 2 m. E. is the village of Newtown 
 Linford , where the ch. has a Dec. 
 tower, but the body is very late Perp. 
 Hence a pathway leads beside a clear 
 trout-stream to Bradgate rarh, in 
 which are the ruins of the hall, 
 interesting as the birthplace of Lady 
 Jane Grey, it having been built by 
 her grandfather, Thomas Grey, 2nd 
 Marquis of Dorset. “It is said 
 of the wife of the Earl of Stamford 
 who last inhabited Bradgate Hall, 
 that she set it on fire, or caused it to 
 be set on fire, at the instigation of 
 her sister, who then, lived in London. 
 The story is thus told : Some time 
 
 after the Earl had married he 
 brought his lady to his seat at 
 Bradgate. Her sister wrote to her, 
 desiring to know how she liked 
 her habitation and the country she 
 was in. The Countess wrote for 
 answer, that * the house was tolerable, 
 that the country was a forest, and 
 the inhabitants all brutes.* The 
 sister, in consequence, by letter 
 desired her ‘to set fire to the house 
 and run away by the light of it.* The 
 former part of the request, it is said, 
 she immediately put into practice.” 
 — 7 Jirosby. The lady of whom this 
 story is told was Elizabeth, daughter 
 of Sir Daniel Harvey, but its truth 
 is very doubtful. The park stands 
 within the ancient bounds of Clmm- 
 wood Forest, which abounds still in 
 picturesque views, though gnutly 
 altered from its former condition ; 
 ** where a squirrel might hop 6 m. 
 from tree to tree without touching 
 the ground, and a traveller might 
 journey from Beaumanoir to Bardon 
 on a summer day without once seeing 
 the sun.*’ Trees are now scanty, yet 
 a few' fine oaks survive. It seems to 
 
 have formed part of the great forest 
 of Arden, which in the time of the 
 Romans extended from Avon to 
 Trent. Drayton thus writes of 
 Ch arn wood : — 
 
 M 0 Chamwood, be thou call’d the choicest of 
 thy kind ; 
 
 The llk<* in any place, what ford hath hope 
 to find ? 
 
 No tract In all this isle, the proudest let her 
 be, 
 
 Could show a sylvan nymph in beauty like 
 to thee.'* 
 
 Bradgate Hall w T as captured by 
 Prince Rupert in 1642, the owuier 
 (Earl of Stamford) being then in 
 arms against the king. In 1696, it 
 was visited by William III. and 
 early in the next century, being 
 greatly damaged by fire, it was aban- 
 doned. It w'as a moated house, of 
 brick with stone quoins, and the 
 principal remaining features are 2 
 tow'ers ; the N. side is partly over- 
 grown w'ith ivy. 
 
 The best preserved part is the 
 chapel, which was roofed over by 
 the late Earl of Stamford, and the 
 mullioned windows, partially bricked 
 up. It is the family burial-place, 
 but the only monument is one, with 
 recumlxmt effigy in armour, for Henry 
 Grey, first Baron of Groby, and his 
 wife Anne, daughter of Lord Wind- 
 sor. 
 
 There are still traces of the moat, 
 pleasaunces, and fish-ponds; and 
 there are some very fine old oaks in 
 the park. Adjoining the house 
 is a beautiful avenue of aged 
 Spanish chestnuts, under which 
 Lady Jane Grey may reasonably be 
 supposed to have walked. At Brnd- 
 gnto her preceptor, Roger Ascham, 
 found her with astonishment read- 
 ing the ‘Phtcdo’ of Plato, while 
 all the other youthful inhabitants of 
 the house were gone hunting. Fuller 
 says of her, “ She had the innocency 
 of' childhood, the beauty of youth, 
 the solidity of middle, the gravity of 
 old age, and all at 18— the birth of a 
 princess, the learning of a clerk, the 
 
Boute 24 . — Bugby to Trent Junction . — Ullesthorpe. 123 
 
 life of a saint, and the death of a 
 malefactor for her parent’s offence.” 
 
 On the hill in the park, called 
 “ Old John ” (so named from a man 
 who was accidentally killed, in 1823, 
 at the celebration of the late Earl’s 
 coming of age), is a prospect tower, 
 which commands an extensive view of 
 Bardon Hill, Mount Sorrel, and parts 
 of Leicester and Nottingham. The 
 park is open to the public on Mon- 
 days only, but there is a public foot- 
 way across a portion of it. 
 
 13 J m. Groby, once a market town, 
 but now a mere village, containing 
 some remains of the brick and stone 
 mansion of the Greys, Barons Fer- 
 rers of Groby. It is now occu- 
 pied by a tenant of the Earl of 
 Stamford, and the barony court is 
 still held in the old hall, which con- 
 tains a curious inlaid table. Eliza- 
 beth Woodville, afterwards Queen of 
 Edward IV., was first married to Sir 
 John Grey of Groby, and passed there 
 the few happy years of her life, until 
 by her husband’s death in the battle 
 of St. Albans the estate was forfeited. 
 Near the house and the (modern) ch. 
 is the small Norman mound, almost 
 the only remains of the ancient castle. 
 
 Bradgate Hall is a modern Eliza- 
 bethan residence, the hunting-seat 
 of the Earl of Stamford; it occu- 
 pies the site of an old house called 
 Steward’s Hay, midway between 
 Groby and Bradgate. 
 
 On the road to Bradgate is a quarry 
 of Charnwood syenite; also Groby 
 Bool , a small but beautiful mere of 40 
 acres, fronting the picturesque house 
 of Stewardsbury. Concerning this 
 mere there are two local proverbs : 
 “ Then I’ll thatch Groby Pool with 
 pancakes,” alluding to something 
 improbable ; and “ For his death 
 there is many a wet eye in Groby 
 Pool ; ” that is, no eyes are wetted 
 by tears for him. The pool con- 
 tains numbers of pike and perch, 
 and it is also a great resort of 
 waterfowl. Between Groby and Lei- 
 
 cester the old Leicester and Swan- 
 nington Ely. approaches the road, 
 and is carried in a tunnel to Glen- 
 field (Rte. 22). 
 
 Passing on rt. Braunstone House 
 (G. Pochin, Esq.), on 1. Glenfield 
 Frith House (T. Pares, Esq.), a little 
 to the S. of which is “ The Bird’s 
 Nest,” said to have been the site of 
 a hunting-seat of John of Gaunt, 
 and crossing at the turnpike the old 
 Roman Fosse Way, the tourist reaches 
 
 18 m. Leicester (Stat.). (Rte. 19.) 
 
 ROUTE 24. 
 
 RUGBY TO TRENT JUNCTION, BY 
 LEICESTER, MOUNT SORREL, AND 
 LOUGHBOROUGH. [LUTTERWORTH.] 
 MIDLAND RAILWAY. 40 \ m. 
 
 The rly. runs through a pleasant 
 country from Rugby, and crosses 
 the Watling Street into Leicester- 
 shire, some distance S. of 
 
 7f m. Ullesthorpe (Stat.) This is a 
 framework-knitting hamlet, depend- 
 ant on, but larger than, Claybrooke, 
 1 m. W., where there is a good Dec. 
 ch. , with square embattled tower. The 
 country around Claybrooke is high, 
 and the river Soar rises in its neigh- 
 bourhood. 2 m. W. of Claybrooke the 
 Roman road of the Fosse Way enters 
 Leicestershire, and runs parallel 
 with the rly. to Leicester. High 
 Cross , where it crosses the Watling 
 Street at rt. angles, 
 
 “Where Fosse and Watling cut each other in 
 their course,” 
 
 G 2 
 
121 
 
 Route 21 . — Rugby to Trent Junction. 
 
 is supposed to have been the site of 
 the station of Veononea. A pillar 
 was erected to mark the spotiu 171*2, 
 by Lord Fielding. 
 
 £3 m. S K. of Ulhsthorpo is the 
 small market-town of Luitencorth 
 (Inn: Denbigh Anns, pleasantly 
 placed on a hill overlooking the Swift, 
 u tributary uf the Avon; it is a very 
 quiet place. without any manufac- 
 turer, the ribbon and husiory trades, 
 once flourishing, being no longer car- 
 ried on. The Ck. of St. Mary is a 
 large, ban U>tno Porp. edifice, with 
 a lofty tower: it has been restored, 
 when two fine frescoes were brought 
 to light; one gives a singular renre- 
 fs-ntation of the Resurrection. Lut- 
 terworth is proud of its association 
 with the memory of John Wickliffe 
 tlic Reformer, who was rector of 
 tho mrish fmm 1375 to 1384. After 
 his death bis works were condemned 
 by the C>u »< il of Constance (1414), 
 and himself bran tied as a heretic. His 
 barn's w* r- accordingly dug up and 
 burnt, and the asla-s thrown into the 
 river Swift, which flows past tho town. 
 The curved ouk pulpit is said to be 
 the wune in which lie preached, and 
 is reverently pr* — rv- d. with his table, 
 g »wn, and communion cloth. There 
 Is also a portrait of him. and an alto- 
 Micvn, srulptund by W&tmacotL In 
 the vestry is a small library given by 
 Bp. Ryder, of IJch field, once rector, 
 who also mdow«d a girls* school in 
 ] 
 
 II m itmu ihton (Stat). The vil- 
 l %g*’ of B«i nigh ton- Asth-y is 1 m. to 
 the 1., Iialfw »y Irtwirn the rly. and 
 th K iwi K W.iy. hitliia |aruli 
 r «id«d till Ut Ijr the family of Ann- 
 strong, who bad icnipiol the latoc 
 farm as y ome i f r m«*rc than 500 
 years. 2 in. S W. is FnJ**%r*'rlh. the 
 ch. of which contains smii* go»sl ukv 
 num- nt*. Note «j those of Francis 
 Star* smorr. lord of the manor, ami 
 wife (d. 16571 If*' i« njinwnlril 
 in arromir, and lih lady, mi a s j«- 
 nlr t in 1 *. env#do)»c*| in a shroud, 
 leaving only the face liable. 
 
 14} m. ron ntesthorpr (Stat.). Hero 
 framework-knitting and brick-mak- 
 ing are extensively carried on. Tho 
 ch. was rebuilt in 1S42, except tho 
 tower. 3 m. S.E. is the village of 
 A rriViy, the birthplaco of Robert 
 Hall, whose father was a Baptist 
 1 7 * 4 . •! 1 >31 ). 
 
 l*ty m. iri</s/on Junct. (Stat.). 
 (Rte. 19.) 
 
 20 m. Lcicotkb (Stat.) (Rte. 20.) 
 
 From Leicester tlie rly. runs duo 
 north to 
 
 2 1 } m. Sy*ion Janet. (Stat ). pissing 
 on W. the villages of B*igrnvo and 
 Thurmaston. And on K. that of llark- 
 by, with Burkby Hall W. A. Bochin, 
 Esq.). Syston is tlie point of junction 
 of the M» lton and Peterborough Rly. 
 with the main lino Hite. 21). 1} m. 
 
 W. is Wanlip. The cli. i* wortlia visit, 
 as it contains one of the finest brasses 
 in England, to Sir Thomas Walsh 
 and Dim Katrine bis wife, 1393, 
 Wanlip Hall is tho seat of Sir (toorgo 
 J. Pali hit. Bart. 
 
 1 m. further W. is Thurctuifm^ tho 
 birthplace of Hugh Latimer (1470), 
 to whose memory then* is a marble 
 tablet in the ch., of which Bp. Hurd 
 wus once rector. 
 
 At 26 m. tho line ctomc* tho 
 Wreak o, a small stream that near 
 this spot joins the Hour. 
 
 28 m. Sileby (Stat.) The line is 
 carried through the village on a se- 
 ries of arc)** of great height. The 
 Hi. is a fine Dec and Porp. building, 
 with a lofty emlmttlid tower; and 
 an elm-tree, 30 ft. in girth, stands in 
 tlie churchyard. 
 
 1} m. W , finely situated on high 
 ground above the rivrr Sur, U tho 
 oiull town of Mount Sorrel (turn: 
 White Swan), proj-erly Mount Nor 
 1 1 ill. M H« retofore it was famous 
 fur ils Castle, smtiil on a sto» p and 
 craggy hill, and overhanging the 
 river. This first belonged to the 
 Karls of Leicester; afh rwards to 
 ; Salier do Quincy. lisrl of Winchester, 
 
125 
 
 Boute 24:.—BotMey.—Beaumanoir . 
 
 in the Barons’ time. At this day I 
 there remains nothing but a heap of > 
 rubbish; for in the year 1217 the 
 inhabitants of these parts pulled it 
 down to the ground, as a nest of the 
 devil, and a den of thieves and rob- 
 bers.”— Camden. The town is di- 
 . vided into N. and S. End, and each 
 part has a ch. That at North End is 
 a Perp. structure, with heavy square 
 tower; that at South End is mo- 
 dern E. E., with spire. There was 
 formerly a Market-cross here, which 
 Sir John Danvers removed in 1793 
 to his mansion of Swithland ; he 
 erected instead a small round build- 
 ing with cupola, supported by 8 pil- 
 lars, which is called the Market- 
 house, but has been allowed to fall 
 into decay. Stocking-weaving is car- 
 ried on, but the granite or syenite 
 quarries close to the town give the 
 chief employment, the stone being 
 conveyed by a branch rly. to the 
 Barrow station (post'). 
 
 There is an old saying in this 
 neighbourhood, “ He leaps like the 
 Bell-giant or devil of Mount Sorrel.” 
 This is founded on the legend of 
 a giant who took three tremendous 
 leaps, commencing at Mount Sorrel, 
 where he mounted his sorrel horse, 
 thence making a three-mile jump of 
 it to Wanlip (one leap). He then 
 leapt another mile to Bir stall, where, 
 with the force of the shock, he burst 
 himself and his horse; but he ma- 
 naged even then to leap one more 
 mile, as far as Belgrave (1 m. from 
 Leicester), where, as the name im- 
 plies, he was buried. 
 
 2 m. S. is the village of Rothley , 
 adjoining which on W. is Rothley 
 Temple (Major Dyson), where there 
 are remains of a chapel, once a Pre- 
 ceptory of the Knights of Jerusalem 
 — here the author, critic, and orator, 
 Thos. Babin gton Macaulay, was born, 
 Oct. 25, 1800. 
 
 [The country to the W. of Mount 
 Sorrel is broken and occasionally 
 wooded, it being the verge of Charn- 
 
 I wood Forest (Rte. 23). 2 m. W. is 
 ■ Swithland , famous for its slate quar- 
 ries. The ch. contains monuments 
 of the Danvers family. Sivithland 
 Hall (Earl of Lanesborough) has 
 many fine portraits by Vandyke and 
 Lely, and in the park is set up the 
 old Market-cross from Mount Sorrel. 
 1 m. W. is Roecliff Manor (Sir F. 
 Hey gate, Bt.), a handsome mansion, 
 surrounded by thriving plantations, 
 the site being quite a modern re- 
 clamation from the forest. 
 
 N. of Swithland are the pleasant 
 villages of Woodhouse and Woodhouse 
 Eaves, and the noble seat of Beau* 
 manoir. The lover of stained glass 
 should visit Woodhouse Chapel, which 
 formerly contained an elaborate series 
 of armorial bearings of the Neville 
 family. Mr. Perry-Herriek, of Beau- 
 manoir, restored some of this glass, 
 filling the 5-light E. window with sub- 
 jects from the life of our Saviour, and 
 the side windows with various coats 
 of arms. The small chapel of Wood- 
 house Eaves is most picturesquely 
 placed above an abandoned quarry, 
 and the village is the very perfec- 
 tion of neatness. A cluster of a few 
 houses a short distance off, called the 
 Brand, indicates one of the places 
 where cattle were formerly marked 
 before being turned out into the 
 forest. 
 
 Almost adjoining Woodhouse is 
 Beaumanoir , the beautiful modern 
 Elizabethan seat of W. Perry-Her- 
 rick, Esq. (Railton, architect), stand- 
 ing in a noble park. It occupies the 
 site of two former mansions, to one 
 of which Bichard II. and his queen 
 paid a visit. The property belonged, 
 as early as the 12th centy., to the 
 Despensers, but on their attainder 
 it was conferred on Henry de Beau- 
 mont, who built the 2nd house and 
 formed the park, which was 20 m. 
 in circumference. It afterwards 
 passed into the hands of the Hastings, 
 Grey, and Essex families, from the 
 last of whom it was purchased by 
 Sir William Herrick, ancestor of 
 
126 
 
 Route 24 . — Rugby 
 
 Robert Herrick, the poet. The pre- 
 sent house is remarkable for its noble 
 hall and staircase, rich in fine oak 
 carving, and it contains many good 
 portraits. In the hall stands an 
 enormous chair without nail or joint, 
 being carved from an oak, 37 ft. in 
 circumference, that grew in the 
 park. On this chair hangs a gar- 
 laud of roses, annually renewed by 
 the Farnham iamily as a feudal 
 service. 
 
 In cutting a drive by Mr. Herrick 
 at Beacon Hill , on which there is 
 an encampment, a number of early 
 remains, such as celts, armlets, &c., 
 were found.] 
 
 30 m. Barrow-on-Soar (Stat.), fa- 
 mons for its lime, whiph is held in 
 high estimation. The geologist will 
 find in the liassic measures here 
 many typical fossils, and is recom- 
 mended to inquire for Mr. Fewkes 
 or Mr. Lee, each of whom has a good 
 collection of lias fossils. Some of the 
 fishes and reptiles of tjiis formation 
 afforded great matter for wonder in 
 the early days of geological study, 
 particularly the ichthyosaurus and 
 plesiosaurus, several varieties of which 
 have been found here ; and some of 
 the specimens may be seen in the 
 Leicester Town Museum. The manor 
 of Barrow was one of the possessions 
 of Harold, and it was also held by 
 Lord Hastings, beheaded in 1483 by 
 Richard, Duke of Gloucester. The 
 Dec. ch. has a good embattled tower, 
 but the chancel is modern. Bp. Be- 
 veridge, of St. Asaph, was a native 
 of Barrow, and he gave the living to 
 St John’s College, Cambridge. 
 
 1 m. W. is Quorndon , best known 
 as the head-quarters of the Quom 
 hunt. The kennels and stalls are 
 a source of interest to many visi- 
 tors. Qivtmdon House is the seat of 
 E. B. Farnham, Esq., whose family 
 have been seated here for many gene- 
 rations. In the ch. is a monument 
 to Sir John Farnham (d. 1587), which 
 
 to Trent Junction. 
 
 represents him engaged in besieging 
 a fortress : but the figure has suffered 
 considerable mutilation. Quorndon 
 Hall (E. Warner, Esq.) was for- 
 merly known as the Nether Hall, 
 and Quorndon House as the Over 
 Hall. 
 
 32 m. Loughborough ('Stat.). This 
 town (Inn*: King’s Head; Bull’s 
 Head) is, next to Leicester, the 
 largest and most important place for 
 the manufacture of hosiery in this 
 district, and embraces, in addition to 
 stocking weaving, that of bobbin- 
 net, in which interest it is moro asso- 
 ciated with Nottingham. Indeed, 
 this was one of the head-quarters of 
 the bobbin-net trade, until the dis- 
 turbances of the Luddites, wdien the 
 patentee removed his factory into 
 Devonshire. There are also a cele- 
 brated bell-foundry belonging to the 
 Messrs. Taylor, and a large locomo- 
 tive factory of the Messrs. Hughes. 
 Loughborough is a well-built, thriving 
 town, with two handsome churches. 
 
 All Saints is cruciform; it has a 
 fine western tower, erected in the 
 15th centy. It was restored by /Scoff 
 in 1862, and consists of nave, with 
 single N. aisle and double S. aisle, 
 N. and S. transepts, and chancel. 
 In the interior “ its bold and lofty 
 piers — its still more lofty arches 
 and their excellent proportions — 
 are features that render it one of 
 the finest of the parish churches 
 of the county. Its fault is not 
 its simplicity, but its monotony. 
 Throughout the ch. every pier, 
 every window*, every moulding is 
 the same.” Emmanuel Ch. is a good 
 cxamplo of modern Dec. architec- 
 ture; it was built in 1837. 
 
 Lought)orough was one of the pos- 
 sessions of the elder Despenser, and 
 after his death w*as granted to Henry, 
 Lord Beaumont. In later times it 
 was owned for many generations by 
 the Karls of Huntingdon, and it after- 
 wards came into the hands of tho 
 Rawdon-llastings family. 
 
127 
 
 Houte 24:.—r-PrestwoLL — Kingston- on- Soar. 
 
 Bishley Grange, 1J m. N.W. of 
 Loughborough, was once the resi- 
 dence of Mr. Bake well, the eminent 
 breeder of stock. 2 m. further is 
 Garendon Park, the seat of A. L. 
 Phillipps de Lisle, Esq. The house, 
 of which one front is Elizabethan, 
 and the other of Italian architecture, 
 is built on the site of an abbey, 
 founded in 1133, by Robert le Bossu, 
 Earl of Leicester, for Cistercian 
 monks. At the Dissolution it was 
 sold to the Earl of Rutland, and 
 became by marriage the property of 
 the Villiers, Dukes of Buckingham, 
 the last of whom sold it to a lawyer, 
 Ambrose Phillipps, the ancestor of 
 the present proprietor. The grounds 
 are very beautiful, and have local 
 renown for a hawthorn tree that 
 “ miraculously ” blooms at Christ- 
 mas. “ In the park is a temple to 
 Yenus, which formerly contained a 
 fine statue brought from Rome, de- 
 stroyed by a mob in 1811.” The 
 entrance lodges are worthy of notice. 
 That from Sheepsliead (W.) is a tri- 
 umphal arch, adorned' by a relief of 
 Action’s metamorphosis. The forest 
 entrance has pillars of Charnwood 
 porphyry, being the first of the sort 
 ever made of that material. The 
 neighbourhood of Sheepshead is 
 very picturesque, as it lies on the 
 outskirts of Charnwood Forest, the 
 broken ridges of which form a very 
 charming accompaniment of the 
 scenery. 
 
 2 m. E. of Loughborough is Prest- 
 wold. The ch. contains some fine 
 monuments to members of the Packe 
 family. Some are ancient, as to Sir 
 Christopher Packe, temp. Charles I., 
 and others modern, by Bacon and 
 Westmacott ; one of these is to Major 
 Packe, who was killed at Waterloo. 
 Prestwold Hall, a fine Palladian build- 
 ing by Burn, adjoins the village. The 
 park contains some magnificent ce- 
 dars of Lebanon. Very near Prest- 
 wold is Burton Hall (Lord Algernon 
 St. Maur), where the Duchess di 
 Sforza (the granddaughter of the 8th 
 
 Earl Ferrars) was brought up by her 
 guardian, Mr. Mundy, under rather 
 romantic circumstances. 1^ m. N.E. 
 is Wymeswold, with a fine restored 
 ch., well worth a visit. 
 
 Soon after leaving Loughborough 
 the line crosses the Soar and enters 
 Nottinghamshire. At 34 m. we have 
 on E. Stanford Park (Rev. S. Y. 
 Dashwood), in Edward IY.’s time 
 the residence of Sir Richard Illing- 
 worth. The elms and limes in the 
 park are particularly fine, some of 
 the latter having fluted stems like 
 pillars. 
 
 35 m. Hathern (Stat.), a village 
 of framework-knitters. The adjoin- 
 ing village of Normanton-on-Soar is 
 mainly occupied by limekilns and 
 brickfields, and is an uninviting lo- 
 cality. 
 
 37 m. Kegworth (Stat.). The re- 
 stored Ch. consists of a nave with 
 aisles, transepts, and chancel, with 
 a tower and spire. In the interior 
 is some remarkably good stained 
 glass, and (in the chancel) a curious 
 row of figures in wood of perform- 
 ers playing on musical instruments. 
 The vestry was formerly a “ domus 
 inclusus, 5 ' or anchorite’s apartment. 
 The village is picturesquely situated, 
 overlooking the Soar, which is crossed 
 by a bridge built by the Duke of 
 Devonshire. 
 
 1 m. N. is Kingston-on-Soar , a vil- 
 lage remarkable for a fanciful crescent 
 of cottages, built in the Gothic style 
 by Lord Belper. Kingston Hall is 
 the seat of Lord Belper, who in the 
 decoration of his grounds has fol- 
 lowed the system of transplanting 
 full-grown trees, as recommended by 
 Sir Henry Steuart. Kingston, which 
 in style resembles a Norm, chateau, 
 stands on the site of the residence of 
 the Babingtons, and there is a monu- 
 ment in the ch., stated to be that 
 of Anthony Babington, the conspi- 
 rator; but this is a mistake, as the 
 style is prior to the reign of Eliza- 
 beth, in which he lived. Kingston 
 
128 
 
 Route 25 . — Birmingham to Wellington. 
 
 eh., a small, poor structure, is deco- 
 rated with the rebus of the Babing- 
 ton family, a babe and tun. 
 
 Eastward of Kcgworth are the vil- 
 lages of West Leake, where the ch. 
 has somo remarkable monuments, 
 and Wysall, where notice the mise- 
 rere seats remaining in the chancel. 
 Midway between tho two is Cort- 
 lingstock (locally, Costock), where 
 the tourist will find a curious cano- 
 pied tomb (probably that of the 
 founder ) on the outside of the chan- 
 cel of the ch., which was restored in 
 1863. Under the S.W. window in 
 the chancel is a low side window, 
 which still possesses the original 
 iron transoms. 2 m. beyond Wysall 
 is Widmerpool, the Elizabethan seat 
 of Jas. Robinson, Esq., who has com- 
 pletely changed the face of the dis- 
 trict, the former desolation of whicli 
 was expressed in the name “ Wide- 
 mcre-pool.” 
 
 Westward is Lockington , where 
 some handsome monuments to the 
 Story family are to be seen in the 
 chancel. From the situation of Lock- 
 ington, at the utmost northern angle 
 of the shire, the saying has arisen, 
 “ Put up your pipes and go to Lock- 
 ington wake ; ” tantamount to an 
 order to be off and not be trouble- 
 some. Lockington Hall (J. B. Story, 
 Esq.). The adjoining township of 
 Hemington lias considerable remains 
 of a ch. ; it was once a separate 
 parish. 
 
 From Kegworth the rly. pursues a 
 northerly course beside the pleasant 
 stream of tho Soar, passing on W. 
 the ch. and village of Ratcliffe on 
 Soar , near which the latter river joins 
 the Trent. Ratcliffe ch. contains some 
 interesting monuments of the Sache- 
 verell family, one of whom is habited 
 as a knight, of the time of Edward 
 IV. The rly. then tunnels through 
 a ridge of red sandstone hills, imme- 
 diately after which it crosses tho 
 Trent, and, skirting tho grounds of 
 
 Thrumpton Hall 1., joins the Derby 
 and Nottingham line at 
 
 40 j m. Trent Janet. Stat . (Rtc. 2.) 
 
 ROUTE 25. 
 
 BIRMINGHAM TO WELLINGTON, BY 
 WEST BROMWICH AND WOLVER- 
 HAMPTON. 
 
 GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY. 32 m. 
 
 This line quits Birmingham from 
 the Snow Hill Stat., which is as 
 mean and uncomfortable as tho 
 general stat. is commodious and 
 splendid. 
 
 Passing Hockley (Stat.) (1 m.), the 
 first stat*. in Staffordshire is 
 
 1 £ m. Soho , now a suburb of Bir- 
 mingham. A short distance N. are 
 the buildings which, under the name 
 of the Soho Works, obtained a 
 European celebrity, and will always 
 be of the greatest interest, as the 
 locality where Watt toiled for so many 
 years, and where he demonstrated 
 to the world the power of his steam- 
 engines. Little more than 100 years 
 ago Soho was a barren heath, upon 
 which was a single rolling-mill ; this 
 was bought by Boulton in 1762, who 
 speedily built on its site the manu- 
 factory, to which he transferred from 
 Birmingham his already extensive 
 trado in toys and metal lio goods. 
 Finding his water-power insufficient, 
 he, in 1767, adopted one of Savory’s 
 engines, which ho discarded two 
 years later, on entering into partner- 
 ship with James Watt, by the help 
 
Boute 25 .— Smethwick.' — West Bromwich. 
 
 129 
 
 of whose engineering skill he ex- 
 tended the original manufactory and 
 added another for coining. They 
 also established an engine factory, 
 where they made engines for England 
 and all the world. In fact, the his- 
 tory of Soho is the history of engineer- 
 ing in general ; but the glory of Soho 
 has now departed, leaving only the 
 memory of the greatest mechanic that 
 the world ever knew. On the death 
 of James Watt, the son of the engineer, 
 in 1848, the engine factory was re- 
 moved to Smethwick, and the Soho 
 works are now occupied by several 
 independent firms. The Park, which 
 was the residence of Mr. Boulton, 
 has disappeared, and the site is now 
 occupied by streets and terraces. 
 The old parish Ch. of Handsworth 
 contains in a separate chapel a fine 
 statue of Watt, by Chantrey , who 
 has represented him in a sitting 
 posture, with a pair of compasses in 
 one hand, and a scroll with a plan of * 
 the steam engine on his knee ; there 
 is also a monument to Boulton by 
 Flaxman , and one by Chantrey to 
 Murdoch, an deve of the Soho works, 
 who was one of the first introducers 
 of lighting by gas. But the true 
 monument of Watt is in the volumes 
 of smoke which pour from the count- 
 less chimneys all around, in the 
 clank of the pits and collieries, and 
 in the shrill scream of the locomotive. 
 There are some 16th-centy. monu- 
 ments to the family of Wyrley of 
 Hamstead, former lords of the manor, 
 including one in the chantry, with 
 effigies of William Wyrley and his 
 lady, he in plate-armour and she with 
 a ruff In the S. aisle ts an effigy in 
 armour of William Stanford of Perry 
 Hall. The ch. contains a trefoiled 
 piscina and a good E. Dec. window. 
 
 2} m. Handsworth and Smethwick 
 (Stat.). Smethwick lies 2 m. S. of 
 Handsworth, and has two stats, 
 (called Soho and Smethwick ) on the 
 Stour Valley line, which for several 
 miles runs nearly parallel with the 
 
 G. W. line. It occurs in Domesday 
 Book as Smedewick, and, though 
 now possessing a population of more 
 than 17,000, is only a hamlet in the 
 parish of Harborne. But the little 
 chapel erected in 1719 by Dorothy 
 Parkes is now supplemented by three 
 modern churches, the most beautiful 
 of which is the E. Eng. ch. of St. Pahl, 
 built in 1858. The principal manu- 
 factories here are those of the Bir- 
 mingham Plate-Glass Co., who make 
 cast plate-glass, and of Messrs. 
 Chance, who make crown, sheet, and 
 rolled plate-glass. Connected with 
 this branch of manufacture is one for 
 lighthouses on the dioptric system. 
 Since 1855 Messrs. Chance have made 
 more than 150 dioptric lights, of 
 which i are sea-lights of the first 
 and second order, including those of 
 the Whalsey Skerries in the Shet- 
 land Isles, Lundy Island, the Orme’s 
 Head, the Wolf Rock, &c. Upwards 
 of 2000 people are employed here, and 
 large schools have been erected for 
 the education of the children em- 
 ployed in the works. Other impor- 
 tant establishments are the new Soho 
 Works, those of the Patent Tube 
 Company, and the Patent Rivet Com- 
 pany, which formerly belonged to the 
 engineering firm of Fox, Henderson, 
 and Co., so celebrated in connection 
 with the Great Exhibition and the 
 Crystal Palace. Although the pre- 
 sent has not left Smethwick much 
 of the past, there are still a few old 
 residences remaining, but partially 
 modernized, such as Shireland Hall, 
 once the property of the Reynolds 
 family, and before them of Sir 
 Stephen Jenyns, Lord Mayor of 
 London in 1508, towards Birming- 
 ham; and Beaks, Lightwood, and 
 Warley, on the road to Hales Owen. 
 The Wolverhampton canal, which runs 
 through Smethwick, is crossed by a 
 fine wide bridge, known as the Sum- 
 mit Bridge. The village and mother 
 ch. of Harborne lies 3 m. S., on the 
 Worcestershire border. 
 
 6 m. West Bromwich (Stat.) can 
 G 3 
 
130 
 
 Route 25 . — Birmingham to Wellington . 
 
 boast of even a more rapid growth 
 than Soho, the greater part of its pre- 
 sent site having been as late as 1806 
 a rabbit warren, whereas it is now 
 one of the busiest districts in the 
 Black Country, with a Pop. of more 
 than 47,000. The tow*n consists of a 
 well-built High Street, 1£ m. long, 
 with many others branching out ; 
 but the parish Ch. stands 1 in. off, 
 on a hill N. It was given to the 
 convent of Worcester by Henry I., 
 and afterwards granted by them to 
 the prior of Sandwell, who rebuilt it 
 in the Dec. style. In 1786 it was 
 almost rebuilt in the barbarous taste 
 of that period, but has now* been re- 
 stored (1872), and is a handsome 
 Dec. edifice, with square pinnacled 
 tower. There is a good 16th-centy. 
 font, some monuments to the family 
 of Whorwood, of Sandwell Park, who 
 flourished in the 16th century, and 
 a stained window' to the memory of 
 the late Earl of Dartmouth. There 
 are five other churches in the parish. 
 The Oak House is a 16th-centy. 
 mansion of much interest, fairly 
 preserved. William Jesse the na- 
 turalist was born at West Brom- 
 wich, and Hallain the historian re- 
 sided here. The father of the latter 
 resided at Charlemont Hall (1 m. 
 N.E.), which was his property. 
 
 A celebrity of West Bromwich 
 was Walter Parsons, a gigantic 
 blacksmith, who became a porter in 
 the household of JameB I. He could 
 carry a yeoman of the guard under 
 each arm, and his good temper was 
 equal to his strength. Once, when 
 insulted in the street, he took his 
 revenge by hanging up his opponent 
 on the hooks of the butchers’ sham- 
 bles by his waistband. (Fuller, 
 4 Worthies,* p. 759.) 
 
 Adjoining the town, 8.E, is Sand- 
 t cell Park , the property of the Earl 
 of Dartmouth, who has given up 
 the house as a home for ludies of 
 limited means and for young govern- 
 esses— a school for the daughters of 
 
 clergymen, and a training institution 
 for boys and girls. It is under the 
 superintendence of Miss Selwyn, 
 sister of the bishop of the diocese. 
 Sandwell (Sancta Fons) was formerly 
 a Benedictine prior}*, founded temp. 
 Hen. II., by William de Ophene, or 
 Offney, ami on the suppression was 
 purchased by the Whorwoods. The 
 park is divided into allotments, and 
 is occasionally used in the sum- 
 mer as an encampment for volunteers. 
 The grounds and woods are exceed- 
 ingly pretty, and one can scarcely 
 realize their proximity to a busy 
 manufacturing district. 
 
 7 m. Stcan Village (Stat), a par- 
 ticularly grimy place. 
 
 8$ m. Wedne&unj (Stat.) 'popularly 
 Wedgebury), a place of great anti- 
 quity, a castle having been founded 
 here in the 10th century by Ethel- 
 fleda, “Lady of the Mercians,” a 
 daughter of Alfred. The tow*n itself 
 is still older; ns its original name 
 was apparently Wodensburgh, be- 
 tokening an occupation in heathen 
 times. 
 
 It is now given up utterly to iron- 
 works and foundries, which, together 
 with a manufactory of mil way tyres 
 and axles, form the staple employment 
 Pop. 25,000). Here are the Old Park 
 ronworks, one of the largest estab- 
 lishments in Staffordshire, belonging 
 to Messrs. Lloyds, Fosters, and Co. 
 There is documentary evidence to 
 prove that the mines were worked in 
 this parish in the 13th centy. The 
 Ch. occupies a good situation on the 
 hill, where the castle formerly stood. 
 It is a fine Perp. building, consisting 
 of nave, with aisles and clerestory, 
 chancel, transepts, and a very graceful 
 octagonal spire at the W. end. In 
 the interior are some early 17th-ccnt. 
 monuments to the Parkes family, and 
 one ( with a bust) to Mr. Addison, 
 who was instrumental in restoring 
 the ch.; also an incised slab to 
 "John Cumberfort and his wyffc,” 
 1553. The other churches are 8t 
 
'Route 25.— Bilston. — Rriestfield Junction. 
 
 181 
 
 John’s and St. James’s. In addition 
 to the Great Western, the South 
 Staffordshire Railway to Dudley and 
 Burton has a stat. here, and there is 
 a short branch to Deepfields, on the 
 North-Western line. 
 
 Willingsworth Hall , now a farm- 
 house, \ m. W. of Wednesbury, is 
 regarded as the original seat of the 
 Dudleys, and there Henry VII.’s 
 “wolf” is said to have been born in 
 1462. 
 
 10 m. Bradley and Moxley (Stat.). 
 Both outskirts of Bilston. At Brad- 
 ley the first charcoal blast-furnace 
 was erected a century ago, by John 
 Wilkinson, a man famous in the 
 district for first applying iron to the 
 building of canal boats. 
 
 11 m. Bilston (Stat.) (formerly 
 Bilsington) stands on the northern 
 portion of the great coal-field that 
 stretches, with but short intervals, 
 from West Bromwich to Cannock 
 Chase. It is one of the busiest towns 
 in the district (Pop. 24,192), and is 
 almost surrounded by collieries and 
 ironworks, the “ spoil banks” of the 
 one and the “ cinder mounts” of the 
 other (the accumulation of ages) pre- 
 senting huge barren hills in every 
 direction. Clouds of smoke perpetu- 
 ally hang over it, and the country 
 around at night time is lighted up 
 with lurid flames from the neigh- 
 bouring blast and puddling furnaces. 
 The fires from the coking-hearths 
 also occasionally burst forth like 
 mimic volcanoes, and the whole 
 scene in a time of active trade is 
 wonderful and impressive. Owing 
 to early and continued mining opera- 
 tions, the neighbourhood of the town, 
 and even some of its precincts, are 
 “ honeycombed,” and occasionally 
 subsidences to a considerable extent 
 take place. Many houses and cot- 
 tages stand awry, and tall chim- 
 neys may be seen rivalling in their 
 obliquity the celebrated tower of Pisa. 
 The town is irregularly built, but 
 
 has been of late much improved. 
 There is a Town hall (in which is a 
 free library) in the Italian style, public 
 baths and washhouses, a Temperance 
 hall, &c. The principal church is that 
 of St. Leonard, which was rebuilt in 
 1827 : there are 3 other churches. 
 The population is chiefly composed 
 of miners, ironworkers, and per- 
 sons employed in the japanning 
 works, which are extensive. Iron- 
 ore is largely worked in the neigh- 
 bourhood, and, no trifling aid, an 
 excellent sand for moulding is dis- 
 covered close by. The story of “the 
 boy of Bilston” (William Perry), 
 whose imposture was detected by Bp. 
 Morton of Lichfield, is told in full de- 
 tail by Plot. Bilston gained in 1832 
 a painful notoriety from the dreadful 
 ravages of the cholera, which were 
 more disastrous here than in any other 
 part of the kingdom. Coffins were 
 imported daily from Birmingham, 
 and, when the disease abated, many 
 children were found without parents, 
 and others ignorant of their names 
 or relations. The clergy were most 
 assiduous in their work all through 
 the misery, and a cholera orphan 
 school was subsequently founded. 
 
 The London and North-Western 
 Rly. has also a stat. at JEttingshall 
 Boad , about 1 m. to the W. of 
 Bilston. 
 
 “Passing onwards by rail to 
 Wolverhampton, I felt that I was 
 truly in the heart of the manufac- 
 turing districts of England. I 
 could have fancied myself trans- 
 ported to the forges of Yulcan and 
 Cyclops, in Lemnos, for the sight 
 was so marvellous, and the scale of 
 the undertaking so colossal, that to 
 an uninitiated eye it appeared some- 
 thing superhuman. As far as the 
 j eye reaches you see manufactories, 
 
 I with chimneys rising like lofty 
 | towers, pouring forth red flames, that 
 | shine the more brightly from the 
 sky being darkened by the eternal 
 | exhalations of smoke.” — Waagen. 
 
 I 12 m. Briestfield Junction (Stat.), 
 
132 
 
 lioute 25 . — Birmingham to Wellington . 
 
 where the line from Stourbridge, 
 Dudley, &c., falls in (ltte. 27.) 
 
 13 m. T Volrerhampton (Low Level 
 Stat.) ( Hotels : Star and Garter; 
 Swan), com moidy shortened to 
 “Whampton,*’ may bo called the 
 metropolis of South Staffordshire 
 (Pop. 08,000). It is situated on rising 
 ground, and being nearly 300 feet 
 above the level of the sea, the air 
 is somewhat harsh but salubrious. 
 The town has the peculiarity that 
 the water from its western side 
 tlows through the Severn into the 
 Bristol Channel, while that from 
 the eastern side passes through the 
 Trent into the German Ocean. It is 
 often, but improperly, described as the 
 centre of the “ Black Country/’ It 
 is not in fact in the Black Country, 
 but adjoins it, and stands upon the 
 thick bed of new red sandstone, which 
 meets the great coal-field on its 
 western extremity. The aspect is 
 consequently manufacturing on one 
 side and agricultural on the other, 
 and by virtue of its position it has 
 become the chief agricultural and 
 trading emporium of the district. In 
 its neighbourhood, on the north, 
 the south, and the west, are many 
 hills of moderate height, from which 
 the Clee hills, the Wrekin, and even 
 the mountains of Wales are visible. 
 Few places in Staffordshire possess 
 such ancient lineage as Wolverhamp- 
 ton (its name is a corruption of Wulf- 
 runa’s ham or town), though not many 
 memorials of its early foundation re- 
 main. Wulfhere, first Christian king 
 of Mercia, a.d. 659, established, it is 
 believed, a monastic institution here, 
 dedicated to St. Mary. More than 3 
 centuries afterwards, in the reign of 
 Ethelred II., Wulfrona, sister of the 
 king, and widow of Athclm, Karl of 
 Northampton, founded a ch. and 
 endowed it with lands for the main- 
 tenance of a dean and canons. The 
 deanery was united by Edward IV. 
 t> that of Windsor, but separated 
 therefrom by Mary. On the death ; 
 
 of the last dean (Dr. Lewis Hobart), 
 in 1846, the collegiate establishment 
 was dissolved by the Ecclesiastical 
 Commissioners, and the ch. of St. 
 Peter was made parochial. As the 
 town did not grow into very great 
 importance till the discovery of coal 
 and iron in its neighbour hood, its 
 history is chiefly that which be- 
 longs to its ecclesiastical state. 
 
 The fine old Church of St. Peter , 
 which occupies a conspicuous situa- 
 tion near the market-place, was begun 
 in the reign of Edward III., but the 
 magnificent tower and the clerestory 
 were not completed till towards the 
 close of the 15th centy. In the time 
 of Edward VI. its property was 
 granted to Dudley, and was only 
 partially recovered in the next reign, 
 much of it being held in spite of law 
 by the Levesons. During the civil 
 war, the ch. itself was almost ruined, 
 and the chancel was not rebuilt until 
 1683. The ch. has undergone many 
 alterations, and since 1851 has been 
 almost entirely restored. A striking 
 feature in the ch. is the stone pulpit, 
 date about 1480; it is richly sculp- 
 tured in panels with boldly cut leaf 
 ornaments, and at the foot of the 
 staircase is the figure of a grotesque 
 animal in a sitting posture. The font 
 is 14th-cent. work, and is carved with 
 quaint devices and symbols. The 
 W. window is in memory of the 
 late Duke of Wellington ; the stained 
 glass in it is by Waites of Newcastle, 
 ns well as the two lancet windows 
 below with figures of St. Peter and 
 St. Paul. The N. transept, the win- 
 dows of which are peculiar, contains 
 an altar-tomb with effigies of John 
 I^ine and his wife, 1582, and against 
 the E. wall is a monument to the 
 loyal Col. John Lane of Bentley 
 Hall (Ktc. 26), who aided King 
 Chnrles in his escape after the battle 
 of Worcester. In a niche near is a 
 life-size figure of John Baptist, 
 carved by Earp. In the S. transept 
 is a fine statue in bronze, by Lo 
 Sueur, of Sir itichard Lcveson, 
 
133 
 
 Boate 25 . — Wolverhampton. 
 
 who served with great distinction 
 ■against the Spaniards in the reign 
 of Elizabeth. He is said to be the 
 hero of the beautiful ballad called 
 the ‘ Spanish Ladye’s Love/ in- 
 serted in Percy's ‘Reliques.' This 
 transept also contains an altar-tomb, 
 with recumbent figures, of John Le- 
 veson and Joyce his wife. The chan- 
 cel (the work of Dean Turner, after- 
 wards a Nod juror as Bp. of Ely) was 
 rebuilt in 1851, in late Dec. archi- 
 tecture, by Christian , with the addi- 
 tion of an apse, the 7 memorial win- 
 dows of which are filled with stained 
 glass, by O’Connor of London. There 
 are also several other memorial win- 
 dows in the ch. by the same artist, 
 and one by Hardman of Birming- 
 ham. The reredos is a carving of 
 the Last Supper by Forsyth. In the 
 porch is a tablet with a singular epi- 
 taph (1732) to the memory of C. 
 Phillips, an itinerant musician. 
 In the churchyard is a time-worn 
 column, about 15 feet high, with 
 rude sculptures of birds, griffins, 
 &c., spirally arranged, commonly 
 known as “the Danes' Cross," and 
 supposed to commemorate the great 
 battle between the Saxons and the 
 Danes near Tettenhall, in 910 ; but 
 the better opinion seems to be that 
 it is an ordinary churchyard cross 
 of Norm, workmanship. St. John’s 
 is a handsome Ch. in the Grecian 
 style, and contains a remarkably fine 
 organ, built originally for the Temple 
 ch. about 1672 by Renatus Harris, 
 rival of the celebrated Bernard 
 Schmidt. The altarpiece is a good 
 copy of the Descent from the Cross, 
 by Rubens ; it is painted by J. Bar- 
 ney, R.A., a native artist. There are 
 at least 16 other new churches in 
 the original parish, which was very 
 extensive, comprising parts of what 
 are now Bilston, Ettingshall, Wed- 
 nesfield Heath and Willenhall, but 
 none of them of any interest. 
 
 In the Market-place, now named 
 Queen Square, is an equestrian 
 
 Statue of Prince Albert, by Thorny- 
 croft, which was inaugurated by 
 the Queen in person, November 
 30, 1866, a large Russian cannon 
 having been removed from the 
 spot to Snow Hill in order that the 
 statue might be placed in the best 
 situation that the town afforded. 
 Wolverhampton has some fine public 
 buildings, such as the Library, 
 the Theatre, St. Georges Hall, the 
 Exchange, the Market Hall, the 
 Agricultural Hall, in which the 
 large meetings of the Church Con- 
 gress were held in 1867 and which 
 covers a space of 1200 yards, and the 
 Railway Stations, which are near to- 
 gether. That of the London and 
 North-Western Rly. (high level) has 
 a fine front looking up Queen-street. 
 The South Staffordshire Hospital, in 
 Cleveland road, is a handsome build- 
 ing, but it is surpassed by the Orphan 
 Asylum, which occupies a beautiful 
 position at Goldthorn Hill, in the 
 neighbourhood of the town. 
 
 Beside its trade in tin and iron 
 goods, and japanned and papier-mache 
 articles, Wolverhampton, once the 
 great wool-mart of the district, has 
 become the seat of several large and 
 important chemical and galvanizing 
 works. The lock trade, of which this 
 place and Willenhall (2 m. E.) are the 
 centres, embraces a host of subdivisions 
 in itself, of which probably the unini- 
 tiated tourist never heard, and each 
 lock, such as Bramah, cabinet, rim, 
 mortise, padlock, &c., has its special 
 band of operatives. “ The introduc- 
 tion of the lock trade into South Staf- 
 fordshire took place as early as the 
 reign of Queen Elizabeth, but it did 
 not flourish very extensively till the 
 end of the 17th centy., when it became 
 one of the chief staple industries of 
 the district. In the year 1660, when 
 hearth-money was collected, Wolver- 
 hampton paid for 84 hearths, and 
 Willenhall for 97, most of which were 
 used by the locksmiths of those times. 
 The locks of Wolverhampton are 
 
134 
 
 Route 25 . — Birmingham to Wellington. 
 
 different from other districts, their ' 
 security being effected principally by 
 tumblers or levers, while those of 
 other localities are principally secured ‘ 
 by fixed wards. One firm alone 
 (Chubb and Sons) make about HO, 000 
 locks per annum, the cheapest of 
 which is sold at 10s. nett, while 
 many of them are worth from 21. to 
 35/. each. But the common descrip- 
 tions of cabinet locks are sold at 
 prices from 3s.to 10s. a dozen.” The 
 population, which at the commence- 
 ment of the coal and iron discovery 
 was numbered by hundreds, is now 
 not far from 70,000. Bird the painter 
 was bom in Wolverhampton, 1772 ; 
 while Abernethy the surgeon, and 
 Congreve the inventor of the rocket, 
 were educated at the grammar-school, 
 which was founded by Sir Stephen 
 Jenyns, a native of the town, in 1515, 
 and is now* flourishing. 
 
 The Deanery , which was rebuilt 
 in the reign of Charles II.. is occu- 
 
 C icd by Mr. Parke, a well-known 
 ooksellcr. The Old Hall, once the 
 residence of the Levesnn family, is 
 now a jujian and papier-mache fac- 
 tory. 
 
 fun fit all Ual1,\ m. N.W., long the 
 seat of the Hamptons, is a moated 
 Elizabethan house, with a lofty 
 square gate-house ; it is now a farm. 
 
 Conreyanets — Roil to Birmingham, 
 13 m. ; Shr< wsbury, 29J ; Stafford, 10; 
 Iy.ndon, 125; Dudley, 6; Worcester, 
 32: Oxford, 79. 
 
 Didances. Kidderminster, 17 m ; 
 Crewe, *11 ; Wellington, 19. 
 
 At 1 m. frem Wolverhampton the 
 line throws o(T a short spur to the 
 Bushhury Junction ( Rte. 2G), and 
 then tending N.W. ut 15 m. |«vkh* ^ 
 on 8. the village of Tettenhall, 
 still pretty, though many of the 
 famous elms on iU green Imre now 
 fallen into demy. Tettonhall was 
 the secoe of a great defeat of the 
 Ihmesby Edward the Elder, a.d. 910. 
 The Ck. (initially K. K ). which, like 
 Wolvt rhampton, was once collegiate, 
 
 and up to the Dissolution had a dean 
 and 5 prebends, contains a chapel on 
 the north aisle, in which members of 
 the Wrottesley family are buried, and 
 which is separated from the aisle by a 
 carved oak screen. In the S. chancel 
 is a tine tomb of a Leveson. The E. 
 window has 5 lancets, with a curious 
 representation of the Archangel 
 tnimpling on the Dragon. In the 
 spacious chancel are some sedilin 
 and wood screen-work : there is also 
 an octangular font. Notice the mo- 
 numents to the 2 memljers of the 
 Wrottesley family who were killed, 
 one in the CaffYr war, and the other 
 at the capture of Bonmrsund. 
 
 Tho Wolverhampton Corjxirntinn 
 have large reservoirs and waterworks 
 at Tettenhall, conspicuous for their 
 lofty tower. A ch. has been built at 
 Tettenhall Wood, and a lnrgo Di«- 
 fienting College , in creditable Gothic, 
 forms a conspicuous feature in Tet- 
 tenhall landscapes. 
 
 At render ford, 2 m. X., is a re- 
 markable pool, mentioned by Plot, 
 which is clear in fine weather, hut 
 becomes troubled with bubbles and 
 covered with a yellow foam on the 
 approach of min. 
 
 17} m. Codfiall. The country here 
 resumes its agricultural character, 
 and becomes well wooded ond pic- 
 turesque. Tho ch., a short distanco 
 X. of stat., was rebuilt in 18*18, but 
 the E. E. tower has been preserved. 
 Wrottesley Hall, 1 in. S. of Mat. (Ixird 
 Wrottesley), is finely placid on an 
 eminence. Sir Hugh no Wrottesley 
 attended Edward III. at the siege of 
 Calais, and had a licence in 1350 to 
 make a park lure. He was one of 
 the original Knights of the Garter. 
 The present house wna built by Sir 
 Walter Wrottesley in lfi9fl, the 
 former one having been much da- 
 maged in the civil war, during which 
 it was garrisoned for Charles I. In 
 the jiork mime remains of early 
 buildings were found, which Plot 
 and other antiquaries believed to be 
 
Route 26 . — Birmingham to Crewe . 135 
 
 those of Tettenhall or Theotenhall. 
 Gough held that it was the site of 
 Uriconium, but this has been suffi- 
 ciently disproved. 
 
 m. N.W. of stat. is Chillington 
 Hall, the seat of the old Roman 
 Catholic family of Giffard, who have 
 held it since the reign of Stephen. 
 The present house, superseding one 
 of the time of Henry VIII., that was 
 rendered almost uninhabitable from 
 damage received during the Com- 
 monwealth, when the Giffards were 
 especially obnoxious to the ruling 
 powers as the owners of Boscobel 
 (see Handbook for Shropshire), was 
 built by Peter Giffard, the 17th 
 lord of Chillington, from the designs 
 of Sir John Soane. The grounds, 
 which are freely opened to the public 
 during the summer months, are very 
 extensive and beautifully wooded, and 
 contain a large lake called the Pool ; 
 but the principal attraction is the 
 main avenue, which is over 2 m. in 
 length. There is a sulphur well, 
 formerly in much repute for the cure 
 of leprosy, in the grounds, and a 
 similar spring is found not far off 
 in Codsall wood, which gushes out 
 from beneath an aged oak. 
 
 20J m. Albrighton (Stat.), in Shrop- 
 shire, but several of the fine adjoin- 
 ing seats are in Staffordshire. 4 m. 
 N. is Weston Park (Earl of Bradford). 
 The house is a plain, though large 
 building. The ivy-clad Ch. stands 
 in the park. It has a painted E. 
 window, and some monuments of the 
 Bridgemans ; as also two ancient 
 wooden effigies supposed to represent 
 Templars, of the Weston family, with 
 the dates 1188 and 1304 inscribed on 
 tablets of doubtful authority. Pat - 
 shull, 2 m. S. (Earl of Dartmouth), 
 belonged to the Astleys, one of 
 whom erected the present house, 
 which is in the Vanbrugh style. It 
 afterwards passed to the Pigots (one 
 of them was Governor Pigot, the 
 possessor of the famed Pigot dia- 
 mond), from whom it was purchased 
 by the late Lord Dartmouth. His 
 
 son, the present possessor, has greatly 
 improved the house under Burn,, 
 and has laid out beautiful gardens. 
 The park contains some picturesque 
 scenery, and is adorned by a ser- 
 pentine sheet of water, terminating- 
 in a lake. 
 
 Patshull (or Patteshull) ch., which 
 stands in the park, an Italian struc- 
 ture of the close of the 17th centy.* 
 has 2 altar-tombs from an older 
 building. 1. Of Sir John Astley 
 and his wife (temp. Henry VII.), 
 with panels of his 7 sons and 8 
 daughters. 2. Sir Richard Astley, 
 recumbent between his two wives. 
 It also contains monuments of the 
 Pigot family. The ch. has several 
 stained glass windows, memorials to 
 former Earls of Dartmouth. 1 m. 
 S.E. of Patshull is Pattingham, a fine 
 old ch. of various dates. The nave 
 is Norm., the chancel E. E., and the 
 S. aisle Dec. ; the tower also is Dec. 
 with modern spire. It has been well 
 restored by Scott. 
 
 For Shijfnal (25 m.), Oakengates 
 (29 m.), and Wellington (32 m.), see 
 Handbook for Shropshire. 
 
 ROUTE 26. 
 
 BIRMINGHAM TO CREWE, BY WOL- 
 VERHAMPTON, BUSHBURY, AND 
 STAFFORD. 
 
 LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN RAIL- 
 WAY. 53| m. 
 
 The North-Western Rly. has two 
 independent routes from Birmingham 
 to Wolverhampton, viz. by the Stour 
 
136 
 
 Houle 26 . — Birmingham to Crewe . ’ 
 
 Valley, and by the main line, for- 
 merly the Grand Junction Ely. 
 
 1. By Stour Valley. Gliding out 
 •of the magnificent central station 
 and passing through the tunnel, the 
 traveller emerges at once amongst 
 the blackened chimneys and smutty 
 atmosphere of manufacturing Bir- 
 mingham. This is abundantly evi- 
 dent, not only from the physical signs 
 of labour, but from the dense popula- 
 tion accumulated on either side the 
 line, the frequent stations, and the 
 general character of the passengers 
 — the first class being occupied by 
 business men, who leap in and out 
 as though to save every moment of 
 time, while the third are filled with 
 grimy-faced artizans. 
 
 For some distance out of Birming- 
 ham there is a stat. at every mile or 
 so, as at Edgbaston, Soho , Smethioiclc 
 Junct. (whence a line goes off to 
 Stourbridge, Rte. 27), and Spon 
 Lane , the nearest stat. to Messrs. 
 Chance s w T orks (Rte. 25). At 5 m. 
 is Oldbury (Stat.), in Worcestershire, 
 where are ironworks and collieries, 
 and a large railway-carriage manu- 
 factory. At 6 m. Albion (Stat.), ad- 
 joining ironworks of the same name, 
 and the hamlet of Tividale , where is 
 a basaltic rock called Coxe’s Rough, 
 of great interest to the geologist. 
 At 7 m., Dudley Port Junct. Stat ., 
 the South Staffordshire Rly. passes 
 beneath the Stour Valley line, run- 
 ning N. to Walsall and Lichfield, and 
 S. to Dudley, a place that, although 
 in reality situated in an outlying por- 
 tion of Worcestershire, can scarcely 
 be omitted from any description of the 
 Staffordshire district (Rte. 27). 
 
 9 m. Tipton (Stat.). This placo 
 is called Tybbington in Domesday 
 Book, but contains nothing of inter- 
 est to the antiquary. Its aspect, how- 
 ever, is sufficiently remarkable. The 
 churches are all modem, one of them 
 constructed of blue brick, and the 
 town, which has a Pop. of 30,000, 
 spread over a circular area about 2 
 
 m. in diameter, with coal-pits, iron- 
 works, and dwellings, all mixed up 
 1 together. In fact every inch of avail- 
 able ground is covered with furnaces, 
 Tipton being celebrated for its iron 
 as adapted for heavy works. It pos- 
 sesses a speciality for chains, cables, 
 and anchors ; and steam-engine boil- 
 ers are also largely manufactured. 
 The Great Western Rly. has also a 
 stat. at Tipton, and the two lines run 
 nearly side by side to Wolverhampton. 
 
 10 m. Deepfields (Stat.), the seat of 
 several large ironworks, as the Bils- 
 ton Sheet-iron Company, the Deep- 
 field, &c. A short Branch runs hence 
 to Wednesbury (Rte. 25), with stats, at 
 Prince's End and Ocher Hill. On W. , 
 about 2 m., where collieries and iron- 
 works are beginning to give place to 
 agriculture, is Sedgley , situated on a 
 high ridge of ground overlooking 
 Himley. In the beginningof the 17th 
 centy. the manor of Sedgley was pur- 
 chased by Thos. Parkes, whose son 
 Richard figures conspicuously in Dud 
 Dudleys curious work, ‘ Metallum 
 Martis.’ In the upper portion of 
 the parish is Sedgley Park, once a 
 seat of the Dudley family, and after- 
 wards turned into a Roman Catholic 
 school, which was for years in high 
 repute. The S. portion of the parish 
 is called Gomal, and is famous for fire- 
 bricks and nail-making. The Pop. of 
 the parish is 37,000, and there aro 
 4 churches, 3 of them modem ; tho 
 mother church ( All Saints), a hand- 
 some Gothic edifice, was rebuilt in 
 1830 by the Earl of Dudley. 
 
 11 Etting shall Hoad (Stat.). Et- 
 tingshall and New Village are busy 
 iron -working districts, with a Pop. of 
 7000. Bilston is 1 m. E. (Rte. 25). 
 
 12 m. Monmore Green (Stat.), a 
 suburb of Wolverhampton, principally 
 occupied by engineering and varnish- 
 making works. 
 
 13 m. Wolverhampton (High Level 
 Stat.) (Rte. 25.) 
 
 2. By Grand Junction Bly. This, 
 in early rly. times, was the main line 
 
137 
 
 Boute 26 , — Berry Barr . — Great Barr. 
 
 between Birmingham and the North, 
 and it is in fact the nucleus of the 
 present gigantic system of the Lon- 
 don and North-Western Company. 
 It was projected as early as 1824, but 
 it was not sanctioned by Parliament 
 until 1833, and was only opened 
 from Warrington to Birmingham in 
 1837; the extension to London was 
 effected in the following year. This 
 is by far the most agreeable route 
 from the Midland metropolis, as it 
 leaves the Black Country altogether 
 to the 1., and itself skirts pleasant 
 rural districts. 
 
 Passing the suburban stat. of Vaux- 
 hall, we reach at 2 m. Aston Junct. 
 Stat ., whence a branch runs N. to Sut- 
 ton Coldfield, and is being extended 
 to Lichfield. (See Handbook for War- 
 wickshire.) Near the stat. is Aston 
 Hall, one of those characteristic Eliza- 
 bethan buildings so frequently found 
 in the midland counties, and con- 
 sisting of a centre and two wings. 
 During the civil war it belonged to 
 Sir Thomas Holt, who entertained 
 Charles I. there, and also stood a 
 siege in the royal cause. At a later 
 date it became the residence of the 
 family of Watt, the descendants of 
 Boulton’s partner, and it was, a few 
 years ago, purchased by subscription, 
 when the house was converted into a 
 local Museum, and the grounds into 
 a public park. Aston ch. contains 
 some monuments of the Holts and 
 Ardens, and some stained glass by 
 Egginton in the E. window of the S. 
 aisle in memory of Letitia Dearden, 
 1792. 
 
 3J m. Perry Barr (Stat.), a corrup- 
 tion of Parva Barr. On E. are the 
 village of Perry and Perry Hall , the 
 Elizabethan seat of Hon. A. C. G. Cal- 
 thorpe, overlooking the Tame, which 
 flows through the park. To the N. of 
 the village, on the other side of the 
 canal, the ground rises into consider- 
 able uplands, forming the Barr Com- 
 mon, across which the Icknield Street 
 runs. Occupying a conspicuous posi- 
 tion on these heights is the Boman 
 
 Catholic college of Oscott , m. from 
 
 stat. The present building has a fine 
 Tudor front, and has otherwise been 
 improved, from designs by Pugin ; it 
 has superseded the old college, which 
 was greatly damaged by a fire, and 
 is now used as an orphanage. 
 
 4f Hamstead and Great Barr (Stat.) 
 On S., very near the stat., is Hamstead 
 Hall (Mrs. Bagnall), commanding a 
 grand prospect. The property, from 
 the time of Henry II. to James II., 
 belonged to the Wyrleys, of which fa- 
 mily was William Wyrley, the herald, 
 who assisted Erdeswiek, Burton, and 
 other early county historians (d. 1617). 
 On N. 2^ m. is the village of Great 
 Barr, with Barr Hall (Sir A. D. Scott). 
 The ch. has been rebuilt with the ex- 
 ception of the spire. The name of 
 Barr, which signifies Head, sufficiently 
 attests the hilly character of the dis- 
 trict. Barr Beacon , 2 m. N. of the 
 village, rises to the height of 653 ft. 
 It was one of the stations in General 
 Mudge’s survey, and commands a 
 view of the Lickey, the Wrekin, 
 Castle hill in Beaudesert, Sutton, the 
 Bardon hills. 
 
 Great Barr Hall is a fair specimen 
 of modern Gothic, and its very fine 
 grounds afford an extensive prospect. 
 It formerly belonged to the Staple- 
 tons, and afterwards to the Booths. 
 By one of the latter it was sold in 
 1618 to William Scott, the ancestor 
 of the present proprietor. Thomas, 
 the grandson of William, is thus 
 spoken of by Sir Simon Degge, the 
 Staffordshire antiquary : — “ At Barr 
 are the seats of several families of 
 the Scotts, whereof Thomas le Scott, 
 the principal, is owner of a pretty 
 gentleman’s estate, but may justly 
 be accounted the prince of the yeo- 
 manry, he continuing the old man- 
 ner of housekeeping in hospitality to 
 strangers and relieving the poor; 
 and, as he is not sparing to himself 
 in taking the recreation with his 
 hounds, when his other affairs will 
 give leave, so is he not ashamed to 
 put his hand to the plough to en- 
 
138 
 
 Route 26 . — Birmingham to Crewe . 
 
 courage his servants; and in truth 
 in these parts I know none equals 
 his yeoman-like manner of living, 
 but many that take upon them to be 
 gentleman-like come far behind him 
 both in state and manner of living.” 
 
 6 m. Newton Road (Stat.). West 
 Bromwich is 1 m. W. (Kte. 25). 
 
 8} m. Bescot Junction (Stat.). Here 
 the South Staffordshire line crosses the 
 Grand Junction, giving access on 1. 
 to Wednesbury and Dudley; and on 
 rt. to Walsall, Lichfield, and Burton 
 (Rte. 27). 
 
 Beseot Hall (J. Aston, Esq.) is a 
 modern edifice ; the old site is now a 
 garden surrounded by a moat, crossed 
 by an ancient bridge. 
 
 9J m. James Bridge (Stat.), whence 
 a short branch leads to Darlaston 
 and Wednesbury (Rte. 25). Darlas- 
 ton , which belonged to the Staffords, 
 temp. Hen. VI., is a busy iron town 
 (Pop, 14,000) midway between Bils- 
 ton and Wednesbury. The old ch., 
 a brick building of the last centy., 
 was formerly famous for its stained 
 glass, which has now disappeared. 
 1 m. N. of James Bridge is Bentley 
 Hall , which was purchased by 
 Richard Lane in 1426, and, having 
 been rebuilt in the Jacobean style, 
 was the residence of his descendant, 
 Col. Lane, during the civil war, from 
 whence, when further concealment 
 was too dangerous, his sister, Jane 
 Lane, conducted Charles II. on horse- 
 back to Bristol. A good engraving 
 of the house is given in Plot. The 
 Hall was sold by the colonel’s great- 
 grandson in 1748, and became a 
 farmhouse, but is now again a private 
 residence. 
 
 111m. WiUcnhaU (Stat.'), where the 
 Vanes once had a scat, is the centre 
 of a district almost exclusively em- 
 ployed in making locks, the num- 
 ber and variety of which would puzzle 
 the stranger, varying as they do from 
 the intricate safe-lock at five guineas 
 to the little padlock at Id. or 2d. 
 
 “Willenhall has always been cele- 
 brated for the ingenuity of its artizans. 
 The locks made here are similar to 
 Wolverhampton, and consist of rim 
 locks, i.e. door locks opened with 
 knobs and keys, and dead locks which 
 have only one large bolt, worked by 
 the key. One peculiarity of the trade 
 at Willenhall is the distribution of the 
 trade amongst so many masters, the 
 majority of whom employ only some 
 6 or 8 men. The total weekly pro- 
 duct of the district is — Padlocks, 
 24,000 doz. ; cabinet, till, and check, 
 3000 doz. ; fine plate, 1000 doz. ; 
 levered locks, 500 doz.” There are 
 4 churches; the oldest, that of St. 
 Giles , has beenTebuilt, and has a fine 
 stained glass E. window by Clayton 
 and Bell. In this ch. the celebrated 
 Dr. Wilkes is buried. He was edu- 
 cated for the Church, but afterwards 
 practised as a physician, and was a 
 diligent investigator of the natural 
 history and antiquities of Stafford- 
 shire (b. 1691, d. 1760). 
 
 12 J m. PortobeUo (Stat.), a suburb 
 of Willenhall. 
 
 13j m. Wednesfield (Stat). This 
 place is as famous for the manufacture 
 of keys as Willenhall is for locks. 
 The town is of ancient date, but 
 the church is modern. At Wednes- 
 field Heath (where is a Stat on the 
 Walsall and Wolverhampton line, 
 Rte. 27) a handsome church, parson- 
 age, school, and almshouse for poor 
 women, have been built by the muni- 
 ficence of Mr. Rogers, a merchant 
 of Wolverhampton. 
 
 [16 m. Wolverhampton (Stat.) (Rte. 
 25) lies out of the direct route. 
 Some trains call at it, but others run 
 on, direct, to Bushbury.] 
 
 151 m. Bushbury (Junct. Stat.). 
 Hence access is gained to the Stour 
 Valley line and all parts of the 
 Great Western system. Bushbury 
 Ch ., ubout 1 m. N. E. of the stat, is 
 Perp., with square tower and a Norm. 
 S. door. Charles I. was at Bushbury 
 in 1645, as is shown by the following 
 letter, printed by Shaw: — “ The? 
 
139 
 
 Route 26 . — Four Ashes. — Spread Eagle. 
 
 Prince’s headquarters at Wolver- 
 hampton, a handsome town, one 
 church in it. The King lay at Bis- 
 bury, a private, sweet village.” Not 
 far from the stat. is a tumulus, with 
 several fine yews, called Low Hill. 
 
 2 m. N. of Bushbury is Moseley 
 Old Hall, a picturesque half-timbered 
 mansion, one of the places where 
 Charles II. was concealed after he 
 left Boscobel. It is now a farmhouse. 
 In Charles’s day it belonged to the 
 Whitgreaves, who have several monu- 
 ments in Bushbury ch. 1 m. N. E. 
 is Hilton Park , the seat of H. C. 
 Vernon, Esq., into whose family 
 it came in 1547 by marriage with 
 the heiress of the Swinnertons. In 
 the grounds, which command beauti- 
 ful views, is a tower called Porto- 
 bello, to commemorate the taking 
 of that place by Admiral Vernon. 
 A curious custom is mentioned by 
 Erdeswick as being observed here, 
 viz. that the lord of the neighbouring 
 manor of Essington was to bring to 
 Hilton Hall a goose on the 1st day 
 of each year and drive it 3 times 
 round the fire. He then carried it 
 to the table, and received a dish of 
 it for his own use. This custom was 
 continued for 140 years, and was 
 only abandoned when the manors came 
 under one lord. 1 m. N. is Shareshill , 
 where the church has a Grecian 
 body most incongruously added to 
 the old Perp. tower. Here are the 
 effigies of Humphrey Swinnerton 
 and Cassandra his wife, former pos- 
 sessors of Hilton. 
 
 19 m. Four Ashes (Stat.). On E. 
 are the great Sareden ponds, which 
 feed the river Penk ; on W. Somer- 
 ford Hall (Capt. Wil son-Patten), an 
 old seat of the Monckton family. 
 2 m. W. is Prewood (pronounced 
 Broode), which is well worth a visit. 
 
 Brewood Ch. y which, like the rest 
 of the town, is placed on very high 
 ground, is a fine E. E. and Perp .build- 
 ing, and contains a great number of 
 monuments to old families of the 
 
 neighbourhood, such as the Giffards 
 of Chillington (including 4 altar- 
 tombs with recumbent effigies), the 
 Moretons of Engleton, the Fowkes 
 of Brewood Hall and Gunstone, 
 and the Moncktons of Somerford;: 
 Bishop Berington, the Countess of 
 Cork and Orrery, &c. Before the 
 repairs in 1827, an oak screen divided 
 the chancel from the nave, but this, as 
 well as some stalls, was taken down 
 and soon lost. In the churchyard is 
 buried Colonel Carlos, the faithful 
 adherent of Charles II. He was born 
 at Bromhall, in this parish. It was 
 on his knees that the defeated king 
 rested his head and fell into a deep 
 sleep while concealed in the oak at 
 Boscobel. Dr. Jeremiah Smith, a* 
 well-known High Master of the 
 Manchester Grammar School, a 
 native of Brewood, is also buried 
 here. The Grammar School of 
 Brewood, founded by Dr. Knightley 
 in the reign of Edward VI., has 
 been much celebrated, and is 
 still in high repute. Bp. Hurd, 
 Dr. Beddoes, Dr. E. Burton, and 
 many eminent men have been edu- 
 cated at it. But the glories of 
 Brewood are all of the past, and 
 but little remains beyond tradition 
 and a few local names to * show 
 its ancient importance. It is said to 
 have been the seat of a bishopric 
 before the Conquest ; also that King 
 John held his court in it, and that 
 later on it was the principal resi- 
 dence and property of the bishops of 
 Lichfield, to whom it was granted by 
 Henry III. Brewood Hall (Misses 
 Monckton) was the seat of the Fowkes,.. 
 the last member of whom was Dr. 
 Fowke, who contributed the Life of 
 Phocion to the edition of Plutarch’s 
 4 Lives ’ for which his friend Dryden 
 wrote the preface. The ancient forest 
 of Brewood included Boscobel and 
 the White Ladies. (See Handbook for 
 Shropshire.') 
 
 20| m. Spread Eagle (Stat.). The* 
 line here crosses the Watling Street,, 
 
140 
 
 Route 26 . — Birmingham to Crewe. 
 
 which nm3 nearly due E. and W. 
 About 2 in. E. the Street is carried 
 over an extensive upland called Calf 
 Heath, or sometimes Galley Heath, 
 and a little further E. is the inn 
 of the Four Crosses, where Swift, 
 in his journeys to his Deanery in 
 Ireland, once stopped for the night. 
 But not liking his accommodation, 
 and the lady being a notorious scold, 
 he wrote the following distich on a 
 window with a diamond : — 
 
 4 ‘ Thou fool, to hang four crosses on thy 
 door ! 
 
 Hang up thy wife, there needs not any 
 more.” 
 
 J m. N. of this inn is Hatherton 
 Tlall (Col. G. Sulivan), whence the 
 first Lord Hatherton took his title. 
 2 m. W. of the stat. is the village of 
 Stretton (possibly the ancient Pen- 
 noerucium), close to which is Stretton 
 Hall (Mrs. Monckton). 
 
 Passing towards Penkridge, we 
 have on W., at 22 in., Kinvaston, the 
 birthplace of Dr. James, the inventor 
 of the fever powders that bear his 
 name. [At 4 m. W. is Lapley , where 
 some remains of the nunnery founded 
 before the Conquest exist, built up 
 into farm buildings. The church, 
 which is large, and has Norm, por- 
 tions, was almost destroyed in the 
 civil war, but has of late years been 
 restored. 4 m. W. is Blymhill , where 
 the ch. has been restored, in an in- 
 different manner; but a better fate 
 has befallen Sheriff Hales, 3 m. far- 
 ther W., which has been rebuilt, and 
 has a very handsome carved oak 
 ceiling] 
 
 22j m. Penkridge (Stat.). This is 
 a thriving town, principally of iron- 
 workers, placed between the Penk 
 and the Stafford and Worcester. 
 Canal. The ch., which was once 
 collegiate, is a fine edifice, mainly 
 Perp., but with Dec. E. window. 
 There are scv* ml monuments to the 
 family of Lyttleton, the former lords 
 of the manor. One of them in parti- 
 cular bears the following complacent 
 inscription : — 
 
 “Reader, 'twas thought enough upon the 
 tomb of that great captain, the enemy of 
 Rome, to write no more but 4 Here lyes Han- 
 nibal ; * let this suffice thee then Instead of all : 
 
 Here lye two knights the father and the son, 
 Sir Edward and Sir Edward Lyttleton.'* 
 
 Tho ch. has 2 fine stained glass 
 windows to tho memory of the first 
 Lord Hatherton and his wife. 
 
 Like Brewood, Penkridge was of 
 more importance formerly than now, 
 and was thought by Camden to have 
 been the site of Pennocrucium. 
 Others, however, as Plot and Stukely, 
 place the Roman station at Stretton, 
 as being close to the Roman road. 
 
 2 m. S. E. from Penkridge, on tho 
 Cannock road, is Pilaton Hall , for- 
 merly a seat of the Lyttletons, of 
 which an account is given in the 
 4 Gentleman’s Mag/ for 1789. 
 
 Teddesley Park , the beautiful seat 
 of Lord Hatherton, who succeeded 
 to it from the Lyttletons, taking their 
 name, is 2 m. N. E. of Penkridge, 
 and occupies the westerly slopes of 
 the high ground known as Cannock 
 Chase, from which it was reclaimed 
 about 50 years ago. It is well seen 
 from the rly. 
 
 The rly. still keeps a northerly 
 direction, accompanied on E. by tho 
 Penk and the Stafford and Worcester 
 Canal. 1 m. N. of Teddesley Park 
 is the village of Acton Trussed , where 
 the ch. has been restored, and is 
 worth a visit. At 28 m. the branch 
 from Colwich, on the Trent Valley 
 line (Rte. 30), falls in, and opposite 
 the junction there is a good view of 
 Stafford Castle, on its wooded height, 
 with the small ch. at foot (post). 
 
 29 m. Stafford (Junct. Stat, ; E. 
 to Uttoxeter, Derby, &c. ; W. to 
 Newport and Shrewsbury) ( Hotels : 
 North -Western, at the Stat., very 
 good ; Swan) stands in rnther a low 
 situation on the 1. bank of the Sow, 
 and a little before it joins with tho 
 Penk. The town (Pop. 15,000) is 
 well built in tho modem style, but 
 contains also several ancient timber 
 
141 
 
 'Route 26 . — Stafford . 
 
 houses, of which one, the “Noah’s 
 Ark,” in Crabbery-street, may be 
 particularly noticed, as substantially 
 unaltered since the loth centy. ; 
 others have been “restored.” The 
 visitor will remark the extraordi- 
 nary number of shoemakers, leather 
 being, as at Northampton, the staple 
 trade. 
 
 An encampment, called Bury "Ring, 
 near the modern Castle, furnishes a 
 proof of the early occupation of this 
 district, where in 913 a fortress was 
 built by E,thelfleda, the daughter of 
 Alfred. This was by William I. be- 
 stowed on one of his followers, Robert 
 de Todenei, who built a strong 
 castle, and whose family took the 
 name of Stafford. The town received 
 a charter from John in 1206, and 
 has returned M.P.s from the time 
 of Edward I. The castle was rebuilt 
 by Ralph, Lord Stafford, in 1348, 
 and was held for the king during 
 the civil war. It was, however, 
 captured by Sir William Brereton in 
 1643, and was, by order of the Par- 
 liament, “slighted” or demolished, 
 together with the town walls and 
 gates, of which there were four. 
 There were formerly houses of Do- 
 minican, Franciscan, and Augustin 
 friars, but no traces of them remain. 
 
 Beside 3 modern churches there 
 are 2 ancient ones, of much int erest. 
 One of them, indeed, may be placed 
 in the first class of English churches, 
 not entitled to the dignity of being 
 considered as Minsters. This is 
 St. Mary’s, once collegiate, having a 
 dean and 13 canons, established by 
 King John. It is a very fine cruci- 
 form ch., of Trans.-Norm., E. E., and 
 Dec. architecture, and has been 
 restored by Scott, mainly at the ex- 
 pense of Mr. Watts Russell, of Ham 
 Hall (Rte. 33). The nave is Trans.- 
 Norm. (c. 1180), the S. transept is 
 E. E., as is the chancel, whilst the 
 N. transept is Dec. The noble tower, 
 square below and octagonal above, 
 was formerly surmounted by a spire. 
 The chancel is paved with encaustic 
 
 tiles, and the fine E. window is a 
 memorial of the late Earl Talbot 
 (d. 1849). Notice among other 
 monuments, one in the N. transept to 
 Sir Edward and Jane, Lady Aston, 
 of Tixall, with their effigies in ala- 
 baster. The font, of tlie time of 
 Henry IT., is supported by 4 pillars 
 representing human figures, and on 
 the rim is an inscription in Lorn- 
 bardic characters, which has not 
 been satisfactorily interpreted. It is 
 mentioned by Plot, in speaking of 
 skilful marksmen, that Prince Rupert 
 showed himself one at Stafford, 
 “where, standing in Capt. Richard 
 Sneyd’s garden at about 60 yards 5 
 distance, he made a shot at the 
 weathercock upon the steeple of 
 the collegiate cb. of St. Mary with 
 a screwed horseman’s pistol, and a 
 single bullet, which pierced its tail, 
 the hole plaiuly appearing to all that 
 were below; which the king, then 
 present, judging as a casualty only, 
 the prince presently proved the con- 
 trary by a second shot to the same 
 effect.” 
 
 The other ch. is St. Chad’s, which, 
 however, is but a fragment of the 
 original edifice, datmg from the 
 time of Stephen. This is the chancel 
 and a small part of the nave, of 
 Norm, architecture, and a square 
 Dec. tower. The nave and aisles 
 have been destroyed, and workshops 
 and dwelling-houses built on the 
 site. Under one of these a dark 
 passage leads from Green gate-street 
 to the ch. A partial restoration has 
 been effected, by which some very 
 beautiful Romanesque arcades apd 
 the chancel-arch have been brought 
 to light ; and the. complete restoration 
 of the ch. by Sir G. G Scott is con- 
 templated as a memorial of Mr. Salt, 
 the collector of the Library which 
 is now the property of the county 
 (post). 
 
 At the N. extremity of the town 
 is the County Gaol, a very large edi- 
 fice. Ot er buildings to be noticed 
 are, the Shire Hall, in the Market 
 
142 
 
 Route 26 . — Birmingham to Creice. 
 
 Place, and the Lunatic Asylum and 
 Infirmary, in which Frank Barber, 
 Johnson’s servant, died in 1801, after 
 undergoing a painful operation. The 
 Grammar School , lately remodelled, 
 is a handsome edifice, with large 
 playground, on tho Newport road. 
 A very valuable collection of books 
 and MSS., mainly relating to Staf- 
 fordshire, the gift of the widow of 
 Mr. Salt, the antiquary, is tempo- 
 rarily deposited at the Shire Hall, 
 the building for its reception, erected 
 by Mr. T. Salt, M.P., not being yet 
 completed. 
 
 Izaak Walton was a native of 
 Stafford, and he made a bequest of 
 considerable value to the poor of the 
 town. 
 
 A pleasant walk of 1J m. on the 
 Newport road leads to Stafford Castle , 
 which occupies a position on a 
 wooded knoll, commanding a magni- 
 ficent view of the Welsh hills, and 
 a large tract of country to the south. 
 It is an unfinished edifice, occupying 
 part of the site of the former strong- 
 hold, and was erected by Sir George 
 Jemingham, 1810-15. The N. front, 
 having been never completed, has 
 fallen into ruin, and part of the 
 central area is now used as a kitchen- 
 garden ; but the S. front, which con- 
 sists of 3 stories with octagonal 
 towers, makes a very striking appear- 
 ance. It is now oidy inhabited by a 
 keeper, but the interior is very well 
 worth seeing, for the antique tapestry, 
 furniture, and armour contained in 
 it, as well as for the view from the 
 summit. At the foot of the hill is 
 the pretty little Norm. ch. of Castle- 
 church (restored by Scott), the parish 
 of which embraces some part of 
 Stafford. 
 
 Distances. — London, 132 m. ; Bir- 
 mingham, 20 ; Crewe, 24 J ; Derby, 
 39; Lichfield, 16; Manchester, 56; 
 Shrewsbury, 29 ; Tamworth, 23. 
 
 From Stafford tho rly. runs in a 
 north-westerly direction, following the 
 
 course of the Sow, a stream quite as 
 sluggish and unpicturesquc as its 
 name. 
 
 At 31 m. is Seighford , where the 
 ch. contains some stained glass, and 
 a handsome alt;ir-tomb for William 
 Bowyer and wife. Seighford Hall , 
 tho property of Col. Eld, of Lea- 
 mington, has been restored, but is 
 not occupied. On E. of the line are 
 Cresswell Hall (W. Williams, Esq.), 
 with the ruins of a chapel in tho 
 grounds, and Tillington House (G. F. 
 Griffin, Esq.). At 33J m. is Norton 
 Bridge Junction Slat., whence a 
 branch of 3^ m. runs to Stone, to 
 join the N. Staffordshire line (Rte. 
 31). The stat. is in the parish of 
 Chebsey , where there is a rude monu- 
 mental pillar of early date in tho 
 churchyard. 
 
 3 m. W. of tho sfat. is the small 
 town of EcdeshaU ( Inn : Royal Oak), 
 where from tho 13th centy. to the 
 year 1867 was the usual residence of 
 the bishops of Lichfield, called 
 Eccleshall Castle. This was built 
 c. 1200 by Bp. Muschamp, but 
 greatly added to, a century after, by 
 Bishop Walter do Langton, treasurer 
 to Edward I. Having suffered much 
 in the civil war, tho greater part 
 was rebuilt of brick by Bp. Lloyd 
 in 1695, and beyond one ivy-clad 
 tower and tho bridge nothing of 
 antiquity is left, the moat being 
 converted into a garden. The pro- 
 perty now is in the hands of tho 
 Ecclesiastical Commissioners, and 
 the bishop’s residence is at Lichfield. 
 The Ch. is mainly E. E., with a very 
 spacious chancel, and was restored 
 by Street, as a memorial to Bp. Lons- 
 dale, who died in 1867, and is buried 
 in the churchyard, under a cross of 
 granite. Several other bishops have 
 been burial hero and have monu- 
 ments in the ch., as Bp. Sampson, 
 1554 ; Bentham, 1579; and Overton, 
 1609. The parish is a very exten- 
 sive one, being divided into no less 
 
Route 26 . — Eccleshall . — Mucclestone . 143 
 
 than 21 townships. One of these is 
 Croxton , where a very fine tract of 
 1700 acres of woodland remains, 
 'called the Bishop’s wood, a part of 
 the ancient forest of Blore, beyond 
 which stretches Blore Heath, the 
 .scene of the battle in I 459 between 
 the Yorkists and Lancastrians. 
 
 [A rly. has been sanctioned be- 
 tween Stafford and Market Drayton, 
 which will pass through Eccleshall. 
 A ride or drive in the same direction 
 will give the tourist a glimpse of the 
 very pleasant scenery of the Shrop- 
 shire border. 
 
 Starting from Eccleshall we soon 
 pass Pershall Park , now only grazing 
 ground, but formerly the domain of 
 an ancient family of the same name. 
 A short distance S. of the road is 
 Cop Mere, a fine sheet of water, near 
 which is Sugnall Hall (R. Hodges, 
 Esq.). The road continues through 
 an open country, in which, on N., 
 •stands the gateway of Bromley Hall , 
 the seat of the noble family of Gerard 
 of Bromley (now extinct) ; it was a 
 fine Elizabethan building, with a very 
 perfect gatehouse, and is spoken of 
 by Plot as the “ most magnificent 
 structure in Staffordshire/’ At 5 m. 
 is Broughton , a hamlet, with a small 
 ancient chapel, built about 1500, and 
 which still remains almost unaltered ; 
 it contains some good old glass in the 
 chancel, and several 16th and 17th 
 centy. monuments of the Bagots and 
 the Broughtons. Broughton Hall , 
 the property of Sir H. D. Broughton, 
 is a most picturesque gabled edifice. 
 
 2 m. N. is the village of Ashley. 
 The Ch. (restored in 1861) was 
 built by David Kenric, a native of 
 the place, from his spoils of war 
 gained as a soldier in the army of 
 the Black Prince. It contains se- 
 veral interesting monuments, among 
 others to the Lords Gerard or Gar- 
 rard of Bromley (underneath which 
 is an effigy of a favourite black 
 servant), — also to different members 
 of the Kinnersley family, one monu- 
 ment being by Chantrey. A brass 
 
 with the following inscription records 
 the foundation of the ch. : — 
 
 “ In perpetuam Rei memoriam 
 Manubias Deo 
 
 David Kenricus Pietas ejus memoria 
 Hoc virtutis Preemiolum dicavit.” 
 
 Dr. Lightfoot, the Hebrew scholar, 
 was rector of this parish. The 
 neighbourhood of Ashley is prettily 
 broken and wooded, and rises to a con- 
 siderable height. 
 
 Returning to the Drayton road, 
 after crossing Ashley Heath, we 
 reach the hamlet of Blore, w r here 
 Audley's Cross marks the scene of the 
 death of the Lancastrian leader. 
 The battle was fought on Sept. 28, 
 1459. Lord Audley, with a strong 
 body of Shropshire and Cheshire 
 men, had posted himself behind a 
 brook that runs into the Tern, and 
 his object was to prevent the Earl of 
 Salisbury (the father of the King- 
 maker) crossing it to join his brothA*- 
 in-law, the Duke of York, at Ludlow. 
 Audley’s forces were much the 
 strongest, but Salisbury was a prac- 
 tised commander, and having by a 
 feigned retreat induced his opponents 
 to quit their strong post, he fell on 
 them whilst crossing the stream and 
 gained a complete victory. ,The 
 slaughter was particularly great 
 among the Cheshire gentry, many 
 of them being in each army. Dray- 
 ton thus mentions their mutual 
 slaughter : 
 
 “ There Dutton Dutton kills ; a Done doth kill 
 a Done ; 
 
 A Booth a Booth — and Leigh by Leigh is 
 overthrown ; 
 
 A Venables against a Venables doth stand : 
 
 A Troutbeck fighteth with a Troutbeck hand 
 to hand ; 
 
 There Molineux doth make a Molineux to 
 die ; 
 
 And Egerton the strength of Egerton doth 
 try.” 
 
 1 m. S. is Hales Hall (Phillips 
 Buchanan, Esq.), adjoining which is 
 the beautiful Ch. of St. Mary, Hales, 
 built in 1856 from designs by Sir 
 G. Gilbert Scott. 
 
 2 m. N. stands Mucclestone (or 
 
144 
 
 Boutc 2G . — Birmingham to Crewe. 
 
 Muxiori ) ch., from the fine Deo. 
 tower of which the rest of the ch. is 
 modem, and bad) Margaret of Anjou 
 is said to have witnessed the defeat 
 of her friends, and with difficulty 
 mule her escape hi the Bishop’s 
 palace nt Eccleshnll, where the king 
 then reside 1, as it was in his hands 
 through a vacancy of the sec. 1 m. 
 W. is Oakley Hull ; Sir G. Chetwode, 
 Bart ), bounded on one side by the 
 Tern, which divides Staffordshire from 
 Shropshire. 
 
 Parsing on 1. TuntdaU lfall (P. 
 Broughton, K>q ). which is almost 
 surrounded by the Tern, we enter at 
 14 m. Market Drayton (see IIandI>ook 
 jor Shropehre). The return journey 
 can l»c urn 1- by the N. Staffordshire 
 rly., either joining the present ltte. 
 nt Madeley 8j m (p>et), or con- 
 tinuing on to the Pottery district.] 
 
 87 Jm. St and on Bridge (Stnt.). 2 
 in. K. is Sirinncrton : the Dec. ch. 
 stands on high ground, and has the 
 cross-legge I effigy of a Swinncrton, 
 t, Edward II. S. of the ch. is Swin- 
 nerton Hall (Basil T. Fitzherbert, 
 Esq ) The present o\mer is a de- 
 scendant of the J udge, who wrote 
 •‘Nature Bn viura/’ and whose j>or- 
 tra;t is preserved here. 
 
 42 m. l\~hitmore (Stat). Thech., 
 which l as K rn partially rebuilt, has 
 sene Norm fragments, and conta : ns 
 the altar loinb of " Edw.ml Mari- 
 waryng a id Alya his wyfTe, rvghtr 
 heir of Whittemore and Bedufphc." 
 Mint more Hall (M. I) Moiling**, 
 Esq.) 1 m. \ K. i* Butterion Jlall 
 (Sir I . M. l’dki igt- n. Ikirt ). a mo- 
 dem Tn lor house, built on the site 
 of an old * it of the Swinncrton*. 
 W. of the stat. the country rise* into 
 gentle bids, known a*» the Sugar loaf. 
 Berry Mdl, (‘.imp Hill, and the 1 »« rtli 
 (nnc though), toe IntU r surmounted 
 by rthik 1 earthworks, suppose*! by 
 some to indicate a H^ninu station. 
 
 Whitmore Stat. is distant 5f in. 
 from Newcastle-under-Lyme ltte. 
 
 80), and. by a cross-road, 5 m. from 
 Trentham Park (ltte. 31). 
 
 2 m. S. is the very pretty villago 
 of Afaer, j dneed between wooded 
 lulls, and witli a small lake or mere 
 in which the river Tern lias its 
 source. Tho cb., which is in bail 
 repair, has an altar-tomb, with faint 
 remains of painting and g lding, for 
 Sir John Bowyer and wife (d. 1004.) 
 Maer Hall (II. Davenport, Esq ) 
 
 441 m. Madeley (Stat. ; there is 
 also a shit, on the Stoke and Drayton 
 branch of the North Staffordshire 
 line. ltte. 30). Great Madeley lies a 
 short distance N. of the stat Tlic 
 Ch. which is mainly Dec and Perp., 
 has been restored by Lord Crewe, the 
 lord of tho manor. 1 1 contains 
 monuments of the Offlcys, one of 
 whom founded the Grammar SchooL 
 Notice also the altar-tomb of Italph 
 Egerton and wife, 1525, with their 
 effigies incised. There is a large 
 timber house in the village (restored 
 by Lord Crewe) which bears on its 
 front the inscription : 
 
 “1. S. B. 1647. 
 
 Walk, knave, what lookr-st at ? " 
 
 There are also some remains of 
 Madeley Hall , a fine timlier house, 
 engraved by Plot, once the seat of 
 the Offleys. Sir Thomas Offley was 
 Lord Mayor of London in 1556. and 
 kept such a hospitable table that it 
 provoked the following distich : — 
 
 " Offlry three dinh*w had of daily tn.ist— 
 
 An egg**, an apple, and (tin* third) a roast** 
 
 It was to Sir John Offiey, a member 
 of the family, that Izank Walton de- 
 dicated his ‘Complete Angler.* 
 
 The country, which from the out- 
 skirts of Stafford I ns had quite a 
 rural character, suddenly changes its 
 n-|n*rt beyond Madeley, the North 
 Sutton Lh ire coal-field being now 
 entered on At 47 in. the littlo 
 sir- am of the Wnl is crossed, and the 
 line enters Cheshire, though E it is 
 still Statibnl-liire, in which the vil- 
 lage*< of I let ley nnd Audit y are l»oth 
 worth notice. Briley, 2 m. N. of the 
 
145 
 
 j Route 27 . — ' Stourbridge to Burton-on- Trent. 
 
 Wal, was once a market town. The | 
 Late Perp. Ch. is remarkable for 
 haying the pillars and arches of 
 wood, though the walls and tower 
 are of stone ; it contains several 
 monuments of the Egertons and the 
 Tolletts. Audley , 4 m. N.E., has a 
 fine Dec. ch. with many Audley 
 tombs, some of early date (notice 
 particularly the brass of Sir Thomas 
 de Audley, 1385), and a recumbent 
 figure in cap and gown of Edward 
 Yernon, “Divinarum Literarum Pro- 
 fessor ” (d. 1622). 
 
 50| m. Basford (Stat.). 
 
 53 \ m. Crewe (Stat.). See Hand- 
 book for Cheshire. 
 
 EOUTE 27. 
 
 Stourbridge: to burton -qn- 
 
 TRENT, BY DUDLEY, WALSALL' 
 
 AND LICHFIELD, 
 
 GREAT WESTERN, L. AND N.-W., AND 
 S. STAFF. ELYS. 35| m. 
 
 Stourbridge {Inn: Talbot), although, 
 strictly speaking, in the county of 
 Worcester, is sufficiently near the 
 border to entitle it to mention in a 
 description of Staffordshire, the more 
 so as the traveller from the south 
 here enters the mineral activity of 
 the midland districts. It is a busy 
 town (Pop. 25,000), mainly consist- 
 ing of 2 long streets, very prettily 
 placed on the Stour, called by Erdes- 
 wick “the proud brook,” and con- 
 tains in its environs the last traces 
 of broken and wooded country that 
 [Derby, Notts , Leic., & Staff .] 
 
 | the traveller will meet for some miles. 
 Except the Grammar School , a hand- 
 some building, well endowed, and 
 where Dr. Johnson received a part 
 of his education, there is little to see 
 in the town itself, the principal inte- 
 rest attaching to it being in its glass 
 manufactures, the conical houses for 
 which are visible westward, some 
 little distance from the station. 
 The cause of the pre-eminence of 
 Stourbridge in this particular branch 
 lies in the possession of a pecu- 
 liar bed of fire-clay, for which, as 
 early as 1566, a working lease was 
 granted. Glass-making was esta- 
 blished in 1557, by some French 
 refugees from Lorraine. Plot, writ- 
 ing in 1686, says : — “ The most 
 preferable clay of any is that of 
 Amblecote, of a dark blueish colour, 
 whereof they make the best pots for 
 the glasshouses of any in England ; 
 nay, so very good is it for this pur- 
 pose, that it is sold on the place for Id. 
 a bushel, whereof Mr. Gray has 6d. 
 and the workman Id. ; and so very 
 necessary to be had that it is sent as 
 far as London, sometimes by waggon, 
 and sometimes by land to Bewdley, 
 and so down the Severn to Bristol, 
 and thence to London.” The real 
 Stourbridge clay, however, is con- 
 fined to a district of not more than 
 2 miles radius, and is found at depths 
 varying from 3 or 4 yards from the 
 surface to 180 yards. In all cases it 
 is below the thick coal, and it is 
 generally overlaid by a shaly, friable 
 coal known as batts. Some 20 
 years ago it was computed that the 
 quantity of bricks made yearly in 
 the Stourbridge district was about 14 
 millions, though the quantity is now 
 more than double, or 30 millions. 
 The quantity of clay raised per week 
 is estimated at about 2000 tons, 
 giving employment to some 1500 
 people. The various products of 
 Stourbridge have great facility of 
 egress by the canal, which carries 
 I them into Staffordshire and to the 
 I Severn at Stourport, beside which 
 H 
 
146 
 
 Route 27 . — Stourbridge to Burton-on-Trent . 
 
 there is abundant railway communi- 
 cation. A line connects Stourbridge 
 with Birmingham (12 m.), passing 
 through the Lye (Stat.) . a lireclay 
 and mining locality, which has the 
 credit of having been the last place 
 in England to bait bulls. The next 
 stat. is ( 'radley (2 m.), where nearly 
 the whole population is employed in 
 making chains and anchors. The 
 next is Rowley (4 m.). The village 
 of Bow ley I\ gis stands 1 m. N., and 
 Turner’s Hill, in its neighbourhood, 
 is the highest point in South Staf- 
 fordshirc. Roman silver coins, to 
 the number of 1200, were found here 
 in 1794. Thence to Smethwick, and 
 so on to Birmingham, the character 
 of the couutry is 44 industrial,” and 
 unpicturesoue. 
 
 Stourbril^c, though it has very 
 far outgrown its parent, is but a 
 township of th parish of Old Swin- 
 ford , 4 m. S. Here is a free school 
 founded and lib rally endowed by 
 Thus. Foley, Esq.. M.P., in 1072, for 
 the education of 00 boys, who wear a 
 distinctive dre.-s. The ch., a modern 
 Gothic building with a lofty spire, 
 was opened 1842. 
 
 Wollaston Hall, 2 m. W., is the 
 scat of H. O. Fimistone, Esq. 
 
 Pcdmore C h ., 1£ in. S., has a curious 
 ancient sculptured arch over the 
 inner door of the porch, representing 
 the Deitv surrounded by the symbols 
 E Th( Hall (J. 
 
 Hunt, Esq.). 1 in. S.E. is llagley 
 llnll fLord Lyttelton), f« r which sec 
 Handbook for Worcestershire, The 
 thn^- counties of Salop, Stafford, and 
 Wore* *t« r arc here curiously inter- 
 mingled. The tow n of Holes Owen 
 (w Handbook for Shropshire) lies 
 4 ni. N. E from IVtlnwre; Hngley, 
 as above, 1 m. S. E., and closely ad- 
 joining on E. is Ckn/,the scene of the 
 murder of voiing King Kenelm of 
 Mercia by his aunt, Qtbudroda. The 
 story of the discovery of the murder 
 may be mid in Matthew of West- 
 minster, and the spot where the 
 headless body was found under the 
 
 bramble-bush is marked by a small 
 ancient chapel with rude sculptures. 
 The small E. E. church has a hand- 
 some monument to the memory of one 
 of the Amphletts (d. 1705) of Clcnt 
 Hall. The Lcnsowcs — Shenstone’s 
 scat — is in sight, and 2 m. S. W. of 
 Clcnt is the village of Broome or 
 7/ro»ie,the residence of his uncle and 
 guardian, the Rev. Thomas Dolman, 
 to whose daughter Mary the young 
 poet made love unsuccessfully, as 
 iio himself states in a little poem, 
 not included in his collected works 
 by Dodsley, but preserved in 4 Gent’s. 
 Mag.,’ vol. lxiii., p. 791. 
 
 “ In Brome so neat, in Brome so clean, 
 
 In Brome all on the green ; 
 
 Oh ! there 1 did see as bright a lass, 
 
 As bright as ever was seen. 
 
 Her hair was of that very brown, 
 
 That doth all browns < xcel ; 
 
 And there's never a hair on ail her head. 
 
 But curls delightful well. 
 
 Oh ! what shall I do, the poet he said. 
 
 My fate is past compare ; 
 
 For she takes all thf verses that ever I make. 
 And v ith th> m < r / 
 
 [The country W. of Stourbridge is 
 diversified, and very pretty, and a 
 round of little more than 20 m. will 
 enable the tourist to visit Stnurton, 
 Enville, Upper Arley, and Kinvcr, 
 all places of interest. At 2J m. on 
 the Bridgnorth rood is the charming 
 little inn called St wpoiuu (or some- 
 times 44 Foley Arms Hotel ’*) in 
 Kinver, where the Kidderminster 
 and Wolverhampton roads branch 
 off. The Stour lu re runs in a very 
 picturesque valley alongside of the 
 Stafford and Worcester Canal, and 
 there is a beautiful view at the junc- 
 tion of the Kinver road, looking to- 
 wards Stourton Cnstlc. 
 
 Opposite Stcwponey, and overlook- 
 ing the river, is Stonrion Castle (R. 
 Coll is, Esq.), a modem residence, 
 which cmlsidie* some small j»ortion 
 of the 15th-centy. red-brick mansion 
 in whieb Reginald Pole wns l»om in 
 1500. This, about 1550, jxisscd into 
 the hands of the Wliorwood family, 
 
147 
 
 Route 27 . — Enville , or Enfield. 
 
 who held it at the time of the civil 
 war, during which it was garrisoned 
 for the king. Plot gives a curious 
 account of a rock between Stourton 
 and Prestwood. “ It lay at the foot 
 of a hill, at which it has been ob- 
 served that birds doe lye, frequently 
 pecking and licking it, and ’tis sup- 
 posed for the salt they find in it; 
 that many birds delight in licking 
 of salt, especially pidgeons, is very 
 certain, but that there is any rock, 
 I must confess I could not find/’ 
 Higher up, and separated from Stour- 
 ton by the river, which runs in a 
 deep defile called “ The Devil’s Hen/’ 
 is Prestwood (II. J. Foley, Esq.), a 
 Jacobean house with Dutch gables, a 
 view of which is given in Plot. It 
 was built by Sir John Lyttleton, who 
 bought the ground from Lord Dud- 
 ley. But whilst it was occupied by 
 Gilbert, Sir John’s eldest son, Ed- 
 mund Lord Dudley, the son of the 
 vendor, alleging fraud, laid claim to 
 it, and, not content with going to 
 law, made a violent attack with 
 his tenants, and succeeded in cap- 
 turing a number of sheep and cattle, 
 which he drove off to Dudley Castle, 
 where he killed and ate them. For 
 this little bit of Highland cattle-lift- 
 ing Lord Dudley was brought before 
 the Star Chamber in 1590. Continu- 
 ing on the main road from Stewponey, 
 and passing Stourton Hail (W. Ben- 
 nett, Esq.), the estate of which was 
 given him by the inhabitants of Dud- 
 ley, the tourist arrives at 
 
 6 m. Enville , or Enfield , the beauti- 
 ful seat of the Earl of Stamford and 
 Warrington. The grounds, containing 
 a fine lake, and laid out in the most 
 picturesque manner, were all de- 
 signed by the poet Shenstone. 
 Even before his time, the water 
 was not only a valuable scenic ac- 
 cessory, but, according to Plot, was 
 used for turning the spits in the kit- 
 chen. The fountains are remark- 
 ably beautiful, and throw up such a 
 body of water that it is visible as 
 
 far as Wolverhampton. The plea- 
 sure-grounds are open to the public 
 every Tuesday and Friday, a most 
 liberal boon of the Earl of Stamford, 
 which i3 much appreciated in the 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 The Hall, erected temp. Hen, 
 VIII., has 2 lofty turrets at the 
 entrance, and rich stepped gables with 
 ornamented chimneys on each side. 
 The centre, which recedes from the 
 wings, has the windows formed with 
 Gothic pointed arches, and is flanked 
 by 2 rectangular towers ; from 
 these the wings extend, appearing as 
 modem additions, and round the top 
 of the whole runs an embattlement 
 which guards the whole of the roof. 
 In the park is the Shenstonian cas- 
 cade, which dashes over the rocks 
 into a deep glen, whose rugged sides 
 are scarcely hid by the thick laurel 
 and shrubs overhanging the edge. 
 
 The Cli. (in course of restoration by 
 Sir G. G. Scott), has nave, aisles, chan- 
 cel, and tower of Norm, date, though 
 considerably modernized, and con- 
 tains a number of monuments to the 
 Grey and Hastings families ; one in 
 the N. side of the chancel, in carved 
 alabaster, with figures of men in com- 
 plete armour, to Thomas Grey (1559), 
 who built “ the proper brick house” 
 which formed the nucleus of the pre- 
 sent mansion ; also several oak stalls. 
 Under a well-executed zigzag arch is 
 an ancient altar-tomb with effigy, 
 without arms or inscription. Judge 
 Lyttleton bequeathed a book called 
 4 Fasciculus Morum ’ to this ch. 
 
 3 m. N. W. of Enville is Black- 
 lands , the curious half-timber house 
 of Levingston, the antiquary. It is 
 in the parish of Bobbington, on the 
 Shropshire border. 
 
 A drive of 6 m. S. W. over a high 
 and open country, commanding a 
 fine view of the richly - wooded 
 Shropshire hills and the noble park 
 of Kinlet, brings the tourist to Over 
 Arley, which belonged to Wulfruna, 
 the foundress of Wolverhampton, 
 was seized by William Rufus, and 
 h 2 
 
148 
 
 Iloute 27 . — Stourbridge to Burton-on-Trcnt. 
 
 was afterwards a possession of the 
 Mortimers. The E. E. and Dec. cli. 
 contains an altar-tomb with cross- 
 legged effigy, and several Lyttletou 
 16 th and 17th centy. monuments. 
 The view from the ch.-yard is very 
 tine, extending far over the Severn, 
 on which the fishermen still use the 
 coracle, a light boat of osiers covered 
 with tarred canvas. A Roman en- 
 campment may be traced in Arley 
 wood. 
 
 For the return, the road lies over 
 the bold height of Kinver Edge. 5 m. 
 N.E. is Kinver. The Ch. stands on 
 a hill overlooking the village, which 
 seems to have suggested its name 
 ( Ken y head, and Vare ( vawr ) great). 
 It has some Norm, work, but has 
 been greatly altered, and the windows 
 are mostly Dec. The tower is of 
 3 stages. The N. aisle of the 
 chancel is the burying-place of the 
 Foleys. There is also a monu- 
 ment to John Hampton (d. 1472) 
 once the owner of the property ; one 
 to Wm. Talbot of Lichfield (d. 1685) ; 
 and one to Sir Edward Grey (temp. 
 Henry VHI.), whose arms are also 
 painted on the windows. This tomb is 
 formed of a curious polished granitic 
 conglomerate, and has on it the figures 
 of Sir Edward, his 2 wives, 7 sons, 
 and 10 daughters. The ch. contains, 
 in addition, some beautiful stained 
 glass, some of which is very old, a 
 carved oak screen, sedilia, pulpit, and 
 a crypt under the chancel, also some 
 ancient books which were formerly 
 kept chained to the desk. On Kin- 
 ver Edge are traces of a square 
 earthwork, which Plot calls a 
 Danish camp, though Rishop Lyttle- 
 ton thought it British. On the N. 
 side, which is very steep, is a re- 
 markable cavern, called Inigo’s Fox 
 Hole. From Kinver a by-road jmss- 
 ing the village of Cliffe, conducts to 
 ♦Stourbridge (3 m.) ] 
 
 Leaving Stourbridge for Dudley, 
 we pass at 1 J m. Brettell /yiwe(Stat.), 
 ana aft 2[ m. Mrfaf //'// (Stat), 
 the centre of a busy iron and colliery 
 
 district, ever alight with the bril- 
 liant flames from the furnace mouths. 
 The town lies a little to the rt., and 
 is placed on a high ridge of ground, 
 from which, when the atmosphere is 
 tolerably clear, a singular and ex- 
 tensive view is gained. The ch. was 
 built in the last century, and has 
 frequently been enlarged to suit the 
 increasing population. Its first in- 
 cumbent (1770-1800), the Rev. Thos. 
 Moss, was the author of the well- 
 known lines beginning 
 
 41 Pity the sorrows of a poor old man, 
 
 Whose trembling limbs have borne him to 
 your door," 
 
 though they have been often ascribed 
 to others. It contains a fine organ. 
 2 ra. N. W. is King's Swinfordy the 
 ch. of which has a heavy square 
 tower ; and there are some rude 
 sculptures over the S. door. Bradley 
 Hally timbered and gabled, is late 
 Elizabethan (1596). 
 
 Very soon after leaving the station 
 the line enters a detached portion of 
 Worcestershire, passing Boundoak 
 (Stat., 2J m.), close to which are 
 the noble ironworks and forges of the 
 Earl of Dudley ; thence past Nether- 
 ton (Stat., 4£ m.), and through a long 
 tunnel to 
 
 5} m. Dudley Junct. Stat. 
 
 As the tourist enters the station, 
 he sees rising above it a considerable 
 hill, well covered with trees, and 
 forming a most unlooked-for oasis 
 in the desert of smoke and fire 
 through which he has hitherto 
 travelled. 
 
 Dudley (Hotel: Dudley Arms, 
 
 about J m. W. of the station) is a 
 nourishing town of some 50,000 
 inhabitants, all more or less indebted 
 for its prosperity to the mineral 
 wealth, the coal, iron, and lime, 
 with which the district teems. On 
 the whole it is well built, consist- 
 ing of a long main street, with a 
 church at each end, a network of 
 minor ones occupying the sides of a 
 hill. Besides its importance in the 
 iron trade, Dudley nos of late ob- 
 
149 
 
 Boute 2 ?. — Dudley : the Castle Hill. 
 
 tained a character for science, a very 
 prosperous geological society having 
 fixed its Museum and headquarters 
 here (in the New Street), whose 
 members can readily explore the 
 interesting Silurian districts of the 
 neighbourhood. The collection is 
 particularly rich in trilobites (Homa- 
 lonotus and Ogygia) and in corals. 
 In the centre of the market-place, 
 on the site of the old Town Hall, 
 is a Fountain erected at the cost 
 of 3000Z. by the Earl of Dudley 
 from designs by Forsyth. It is a 
 Renaissance arch, the ornamental 
 enrichments of which represent Min- 
 ing and Agriculture placed in niches 
 under the dome. There are 2 basins 
 on the top, into which river horses, 
 on rare occasions (as the Whitsuntide 
 holidays), discharge jets of water, and 
 the whole is surmounted by figures 
 of Industry and Commerce. 
 
 The old Ch. (St. Thomas ) was re- 
 built in 1819 ; it has a lofty tower 
 and spire, and, from the elevated 
 position on which it stands, is seen 
 from a great distance. The E. win- 
 dow contains a well-painted repre- 
 sentation of the Ascension, and there 
 is a good basso-relievo of the Con- 
 fession of St. Thomas. Another ch., 
 St. Edmund’s, near the Castle, was 
 ruined in the civil war, and was not 
 rebuilt until 1724. 
 
 The Cluniac Priory, founded by 
 Gervase Paganell in 1155, was al- 
 most totally destroyed soon after the 
 Dissolution. A modern house, bear- 
 ing the same name, was built on 
 part of its site by Earl Dudley in 
 1828, and is the residence of his 
 agent, F. Smith, Esq. A Roman 
 Catholic chapel, S. E. of the castle, 
 contains a complete altar service 
 with ornaments, a processional cross, 
 a silver gilt chalice with enamelled 
 foot of 13th centy., and a set of vest- 
 ments of all the 5 colours. 
 
 The Castle Hill (in Staffordshire), a 
 picturesque eminence, thickly wooded, 
 varied on its surface with glens 
 and dingles, is traversed in all di- 
 
 rections by shady walks, kept up at 
 the expense of the Earl of Dudley, 
 and much appreciated by the inhabit- 
 ants of the town. Dudley takes its 
 name from Dud or Dudo, a Saxon 
 prince, who is said to have erected a 
 fortress here in the 8th centy. It is 
 mentioned in the 4 Domesday Book ’ 
 as being in the possession of William 
 Fitz-Ausculph, after whom it fre- 
 quently changed owners, and under- 
 went several mutations, being dis- 
 mantled by Henry II., but again put 
 into defensive order in Henry III.’s 
 reign. The Suttons, a Nottingham- 
 shire family, held possession until 
 the time of Charles I., when Frances, 
 the grand-daughter of the last Lord 
 Sutton of Dudley, carried it by 
 marriage into the family of Humble 
 Ward, goldsmith to the queen. From 
 this marriage is descended in the 
 male line the present family, ennobled 
 by the title of Dudley, who have ever 
 been famous for uniting the industry 
 of commerce to the dignity of family, 
 and have been celebrated amongst 
 the ranks of iron-masters. Indeed, 
 there are few establishments so 
 largely and successfully carried on as 
 the Earl of Dudley’s ironworks and 
 collieries. The castle underwent a 
 siege of 3 weeks during the civil 
 war, when it was garrisoned for the 
 king by Col. Leveson, but he had 
 eventually to surrender to Sir W. 
 Brereton, the Parliamentarian. It 
 was accidentally burnt in 1750, and 
 not restored. The ruins cover an 
 oblong area of about an acre, the 
 whole of which is surrounded by a 
 wall flanked with towers, and consist 
 of a portal leading to the great tower, 
 the court, and portions of a tall keep, 
 of E. Dec. style, affording excellent 
 specimens of castellated ornamented 
 work. Parts of the outer walls, 
 however, are late Perp. The great 
 attraction is the view from the sum- 
 mit, which embraces not only a large 
 portion of manufacturing Stafford- 
 shire, but a grand panorama of dis- 
 tant ranges, in which are the Malvern, 
 
150 
 
 Route 27 . — Stourbridge to Burton-on-Trent. 
 
 Clent, Abberlcy, Rowley, and Shrop- 
 shire hills, the Wrekin, and in fine 
 weather those of Wales and Derby- 
 shire, are clearly discernible. But the 
 characteristic view from Dudley castle 
 is only to be obtained at night, when 
 the whole horizon is lighted up with 
 tlanie. The earth seems to belch 
 forth fire from the furnaces, forges, 
 and coal-pits, while the effect is en- 
 hanced by the roar of the different 
 works, and the constant hurrying to 
 and fro of trains. The neighbour- 
 hood is densely populated, and is cut 
 up in every direction by railways, 
 Dudley station being a centre from 
 which the Great Western, South 
 Staffordshire, and North - Western 
 lines radiate. 
 
 The Dudley Canal (to Birmingham) 
 is carried through the castle hill in a 
 most remarkable series of Caverns , 
 which can be seen at intervals from 
 openings in the higher grounds. 
 These caverns in the limestone of 
 the Upper Silurian rocks are in part 
 exhausted quarries, and they form a 
 singular sight when lighted up with 
 gas, which is done annually at the 
 Whitsuntide Castle fetes. They were 
 visited by the British Association in 
 1859. The Castle Hill is a mass of 
 Silurian limestone pushed up like a 
 dome from below the surrounding 
 coal-field, and, as it forms an island 
 of limestone in this very exten- 
 sive district, it acquires great value 
 and is largely quarried. The 
 excavated chambers, halls, and 
 galleries, which have been driven 
 through the productive body of 
 stone, are of vast extent, and ore 
 supported at intervals by massive 
 pillars of the rock left standing. 
 The limestone is peculiarly interest- 
 ing to the geologist on account of 
 the fossils of the Wcnlock series, j>ar- 
 ticularly corals and zoophytes, with 
 which it abounds. About 1 m. to 
 the W. is the Wren's Ned, u a steep 
 headland, covered on the top witli 
 stunted wood, presenting the appe ar- 
 ance of a truncated dome. Its sum- 
 
 mit is deeply excavated, whence its 
 ironical name. The limestone teems 
 with the characteristic fossils of the 
 Silurian system, viz., terebratula, 
 lingula, orthis, atrypa, trilobite, 
 crinoid, coral, &e., and the truncated 
 appearance has evidently originated 
 from the denudation of the upper part 
 of the dome of which it once con- 
 sisted.” — ManUlL 
 
 Distances. — Dudley from Birming- 
 ham, 8-1 m. ; Wolverhampton, 6 ; 
 Stourbridge, 5.J. 
 
 4 m. W. Himley Hall (Lady Ward), 
 a modern house, with an exten- 
 sive lake in front. But the beauty 
 of the estate is almost effaced by 
 the smoke which proceeds from 
 various furnaces opened in its vicinity. 
 The cli., rebuilt in 1764, contains 
 several good monuments. 
 
 i m. S. of Himley is Holbeach 
 House , a modem building near the 
 site of the old mansion, remarkable 
 in history as being the place in which 
 several of the parties to the Gun- 
 powder Plot were taken, after a fierce 
 conflict with the forces of the sheriff, 
 November 8, 1605. Both the Wrights 
 w’ere killed, Catesby and Percy slain 
 with one bullet. Rook wood and 
 Winter wounded, and the few who 
 cut their way through were soon 
 after apprehended. 
 
 $ m. N. W. is Wombourm , where 
 there is a good half-timbered manor- 
 house (restored), the seat of the 
 Woodhouses from the time of 
 Edward II. to that of William 111. 
 1.J m. farther is Trysail , where the 
 ch. (Perp., with low' square tower) 
 has the figure of a bishop in a niche 
 over the N. door. On the common 
 beyond is Ajmcood Castle , and an- 
 other British camp, both of which 
 command fine views of the valley of 
 the Severn about Apley and Bridg- 
 north. {See Handbook for Shropshire,) 
 
 From Dudley tho route is by the 
 L. and N.-W. Rly. to CM m.) Dudley 
 Tort (Stat.) (Rte. 25), where the line 
 is crossed by the Stour Valley Rly. 
 
151 
 
 Boute > 27 . — Walsall . — Aldridge. 
 
 7 m. Great Bridge (Stat.), thickly 
 surrounded by works of all descrip- 
 tions. 
 
 9 in. Wednesbury (Stat.) (Ete. 25). 
 
 Grossing the main line of the 
 North-Western from Birmingham, 
 the train reaches at 
 
 12 m. Walsall (Stat.) ( Hotel : 
 George), an ancient town, once pos- 
 sessed by “ King-making Warwick,” 
 and after him by his son-in-law 
 Clarence, the Buckinghams, and the 
 Dudleys, but the traces of antiquity 
 are now altogether lost in the busy 
 stream of manufactures which per- 
 vades it (Pop. 47,000). There are 
 several streets of new and handsome 
 houses in the lower part of the town, 
 and the Town Hall is a structure of 
 considerable merit. Walsall is the 
 chief seat of the saddlery and harness 
 trades, where nine-tenths of the bits 
 and stirrups used in the kingdom are 
 made. Upwards- of 80 factories are 
 kept employed in this branch. The 
 parish Ch. is well situated on a lofty 
 hill, and is conspicuous from its beau- 
 tiful spire. It is a cruciform ch., 
 and contains a stained glass W. 
 window ; subject, St. Matthew. It 
 was rebuilt in 1821, with the excep- 
 tion of the chancel and tower. No- 
 thing remains of the ancient monu- 
 ments that it once possessed. The 
 ether churches are all modern. “ A 
 curious custom exists, of throwing 
 apples and nuts from the Town Hall 
 on St. Clement’s day, to be scrambled 
 for by the populace.” There is a 
 Grammar School founded by Queen 
 Mary, with part of Dudley’s forfeited 
 lands, which has been rebuilt in the 
 Elizabethan style ; in it the first 
 Lord Somers and Bp. Hough were 
 educated. 
 
 # A line of 6 m. gives direct commu- 
 nication with Wolverhampton. It 
 runs nearly parallel with the W. part 
 of that described in Ete. 26, and has 
 6 stats., which accommodate the N. 
 parts of Walsall, Willenhall, and 
 Wednesfield. 
 
 Distances. — Birmingham, 8 m. ; 
 Wolverhampton, 6; Lichfield, 11 ; 
 Dudley, 6| ; Willenhall, 3. 
 
 14 m. Rushall (Stat.). 1 m. S.E. 
 is the old manor-house, which was 
 the seat of the Harpur family (temp. 
 Henry VI.), whose arms remain over 
 the gateway. The house was a royal 
 garrison during the civil war, and 
 before that had been a Lancastrian 
 stronghold. A modern residence (W. 
 H. Duignan, Esq.) is incorporated 
 with the ancient walls. The ch., 
 which is adjoining, has been rebuilt 
 and enlarged. An epitaph in the ch.- 
 yard commemorates a local celebrity : 
 
 “ Within this tomb Charles White doth lie : 
 
 He was six feet and full six inches high ; 
 
 In his proportion Nature had been kind, 
 
 His symmetry so just, no fault could find.” 
 
 2 1 m. N.E. of Eushall is the village 
 of Aldridge , on elevated ground. The 
 Perp, Ch. with square tower, he stored 
 in 1853, has some good modem 
 stained glass windows. The subject 
 of the E. window is the Crucifixion. 
 The presumed effigy of the founder 
 (once under an arch outside) and of 
 Eobert Stapleton (temp. Hen. III.) 
 are now placed within the tower. 
 1 m. E. is Little Aston Hall (Hon. E. 
 S. Jervis), an early specimen of 
 Wyatt’s architecture. The original 
 house was the seat of Sir Eobert 
 Ducie, a London alderman, who was 
 most severely treated by the Parlia- 
 ment for his loyalty; and after him 
 it belonged to Sir Andrew Hacket, 
 the son of the Bishop of Lichfield 
 so honourably known by his exertions 
 for the restoration of his cathedral. 
 
 15 \ m. Pelsall (Stat.) The vil- 
 lage, which lies a short distance 
 N.W.,is dependent on the coal- works 
 in the neighbourhood. The ch., 
 which belonged to the canons of 
 Wolverhampton, has been rebuilt in 
 red brick. The old structure had a 
 rude picture on the wall of an old 
 man holding a purse, in commemora- 
 tion of one Eichard Harrison who 
 left a dole to the poor. 
 
152 
 
 Route 27 . — Stourbridge to Burton-on-Trcnt. 
 
 17 J m. BroumhiUs (Stat.), ft col- 
 liery village on the Watling Street, 
 containing, with the adjoining Ogley 
 Hay, a Pop. of upwards of 4000, for 
 whoso accommodation a handsome 
 cruciform cli. in the Early Dee. style 
 lias been erected. The whole district 
 is quite a recent reclamation from 
 the waste of Cannock Chase, but is 
 already furnished with a market-hall, 
 assembly rooms, swimming baths, 
 &c. Another village is Chase Town 
 (Pop. 3500), where the Cannock 
 Chase Colliery Company have their 
 works, and a ch. in the Byzantine 
 style has been erected by them. 
 Castle Old Fort , a British (?) en- 
 trenchment, occurs at Over Ston- 
 nall, a village 2 m. S. E., and 
 another work, known as Knaves 
 Castle , among the coal pits 1 m. N. 
 of the stat., consisting of a tumulus 
 surrounded by 3 ditches, with an 
 entrance at the S. It is situated on 
 the straight road running from the 
 Watling Street to Etocetum, and was 
 probably a eastrum cestivum. 
 
 20 m. Hammericich (Stat.), a 
 colony of coal-miners and nail- 
 makers (Pop. 1400). The Roman 
 station at Wall is but 2 m. from 
 Haminenvich ; but as it is more con- 
 veniently visited from Lichfield, it is 
 described hereafter. 
 
 Very soon after leaving Hammer- 
 icich the traveller comes in sight of 
 the graceful spires of 
 
 23 m. Lichfield (City Stat., St. 
 John Street). {Hotels: George; Swan; 
 Old Crown.) Lichfield (Pop. 7380) 
 is a neat, quiet cathedral town, with- 
 out manufactures or trades of any 
 consequence, except in vegetables, 
 which arc largely grown to supply 
 the markets of the Black Country. 
 Its situation near the centre of Eng- 
 land, on the great Holyhead and 
 Liverpool roads, caused it formerly 
 to >>e a focus of trnffic, and to lx* 
 much frequented by travellers of 
 all ronks. But this source of ad- 
 vantage and animation has to n con- 
 biderable extent been withdrawn by 
 
 the course taken by the railways, 
 and, except on market days or on 
 special occasions, there is little to 
 enliven its streets. As a cathedral 
 town, however, it possesses very good 
 society, and the tenants of the nume- 
 rous villas and country seats around 
 it contribute to its respectability and 
 well-being. Johnson said of his fel- 
 low-townsfolk that “ they were the 
 most sober, decent i>eople in England 
 — the genteelest in proportion to 
 their wealth, and spoke the purest 
 English.” Boswell remarked that 
 the two principal manufactures in his 
 time were sailcloths and streamers 
 for ships, but thought, on the whole, 
 that the inhabitants of Lichfield 
 were idle ; to which Johnson magni- 
 loquently replied: — “Sir, we are a 
 city of philosophers; wo work with 
 our heads, and make the boobies of 
 Birmingham work for us with their 
 hands.” The name — Leichenfield, 
 or “ field of corpses ” — is said to 
 record a massacre of the Christians 
 in the reign of Diocletian ; the arms 
 of the city, consisting of the dead 
 bodies of three men, armed and 
 crowned, are by some supposed to 
 refer to this very doubtful event; 
 whilst others say they commemorate 
 a battle, of equally uncertain date. 
 Johnson, in his Dictionary, under 
 the word Lich } a dead carcase, adds, 
 “ Lichfield, the field of the dead, a 
 city of Staffordshire, so named from 
 murdered Christians — Salvo magna 
 Parens.” 
 
 The town stands in a pleasant 
 country, and is remarkably well sup- 
 plied with water, there being two 
 very picturesque lakelets. That 
 called the Minster Pool is on the S. 
 side of the cathedral, and contributes 
 no little to the picturcsquencss of 
 that building, the outlinoof which is 
 seen rising over a l>elt of trees, while 
 its image is reflected on the surface 
 of ill- water. To tin* N.E. of the 
 town is the Stowe pool, a reservoir 
 for the South Staffordshire water- 
 works. 
 
153 
 
 Route, 27 . — Lichfield : Cathedral . 
 
 The Free Library and Museum , 
 standing in well kept grounds, is a 
 handsome structure in the Italian 
 style; the Market Hall may also be 
 noticed, but the most prominent 
 building, and the pride of Lichfield, 
 is of course the Cathedral , one of the 
 most beautiful, though by no means 
 the largest, in England, and differing 
 from all others in being still sur- 
 mounted by 3 spires. It was origin- 
 ally founded by Ceadd, or St. Chad, 
 a hermit, who became Bp. of Mercia, 
 and who dwelt, in the 7th centy., in 
 a cell at Stowe, near to the town. 
 There are no traces of the Saxon 
 ch., or of the Norman one which suc- 
 ceeded it (ascribed to Bishop de 
 Limesey, 1086-1117), and there is 
 some uncertainty respecting the erec- 
 tion of the existing edifice, though 
 we may be content to accept the fol- 
 lowing table of probable dates, as 
 supplied by Prof. Willis : — 
 
 Circ. 
 
 Lower part of three western- 
 most bays of choir, with 
 
 the sacristy on south side 1200 
 
 South transept . . . . . . 1220 
 
 North transept and chapter- 
 
 house 1240 
 
 Nave 1250 
 
 West front 1275 
 
 Lady chapel 1300 
 
 Presbytery 1325 
 
 The chief portions are thus en- 
 tirely E.E. and Dec. Perp. windows 
 were inserted during the 15th and 
 16th cents., and the central spire, 
 which was battered down by the 
 Parliamentarians during the civil 
 war, was rebuilt after the Restoration, 
 from a design of Sir Christopher 
 Wren. These gradual changes in 
 Lichfield show a curious parallelism 
 with those in York. 
 
 The W. front (Early Dec.), flanked 
 by 2 spires, rising to a height of 
 183 ft., is exuberantly adorned, re- 
 sembling in this respect, and in the 
 arrangement of its central porch, 
 some of the Continental cathedrals. 
 It is divided into 3 stages, compris- 
 
 ing in the lowest the 3 doorways; 
 in the middle, 3 rows of arcades 
 and the W. window, which rises also 
 into the third. The front is adorned 
 with a long row of statues in niches, 
 representing kings, prophets, and 
 judges, repaired (alas !) in stucco as 
 lately as the year 1822. Over the 
 porch in the centre is a figure of St. 
 Chad, though his costume is any- 
 thing but episcopal. On his right 
 are 12 kings of England, from the 
 Conqueror to Richard II. ; and on 
 his left 12 others, from Oswy of 
 Northumberland to Edward the 
 Confessor. Surmounting the whole 
 is a figure of Charles II., who is so 
 highly placed in consideration of his 
 having given timber out of the royal 
 chases for the repair of the building 
 after the Restoration. This statue 
 was the work of Sir William Wilson, 
 once a stonemason of Sutton-Cold- 
 field. The wheel window in the 
 centre, which was injured during the 
 siege, was restored at the expense of 
 James II. when Duke of York, but 
 was replaced by a memorial window 
 to Canon Hutchinson in 1868. 
 
 The side doors of the W. front are 
 triply recessed with very rich mould- 
 ings. The central porch, which is 
 also deeply recessed, shows a figure of 
 our Lord, attended by angels, the 
 Virgin and Infant, and four statues, 
 viz. Mary Magdalen, Mary the mo- 
 ther of James, St. Peter, and St. John. 
 The visitor should notice the iron- 
 work with which the doors are co- 
 vered. 
 
 The noble nave exhibits the tran- 
 sition from E. E. to Dec. “ The 
 view which opens from this point 
 is, since the restoration, one of ex- 
 treme richness and beauty. The de- 
 tails of the nave itself are unusually 
 graceful ; and beyond the light choir 
 screen, gilt and coloured, the eye 
 ranges to the elaborate design of 
 the altar, a mass of precious marble 
 and alabaster, and finally rests on 
 the stained glass of the Lady Chapel, 
 glowing with the splendour of jewels, 
 h 3 
 
154 
 
 ItoiUe 27 . — Stourbridge to Burton-on- Trent. 
 
 }>etween the dark lines of tracery.” 
 The nave consists of 8 bays, and is 
 divided from the aisles by octagonal 
 pillars, with richly foliated capitals. 
 The triforium consists of 2 arches 
 in each bay, and has a general re- 
 semblance to that of Westminster 
 Abbey. The clerestory windows are 
 very elegant, in tho shape of a 
 spherical triaugle, with curved sides, 
 containing 3 circles within them, 
 and the whole enclosed by dog- 
 tooth moulding. A string-course, 
 with the same sort of moulding, 
 runs under the clerestory, and en- 
 circles the capitals. “Nothing can 
 exceed this nave in beauty and grace- 
 fulness. But in sublimity it is ex- 
 ceeded by many — that, for instance, 
 of Beverley Minster, which, from its 
 actual size, fairly admits the com- 
 parison. And the reason seems to be 
 that a bay of the Lichfield nave is 
 clearly limited in its height. The 
 triforium is made a principal instead 
 of a subordinate feature, and you feel 
 that, if by the heightening of the pier 
 aisles it were placed at a dilferent 
 level from the eye, much of its beauty 
 would be lost ” — Petit . In the nave, 
 by the W. door, is a monument to 
 Dean Launcelot Addison, father of 
 Joseph Addison. The windows in 
 the aisles are 3-light geometrical, 
 and below them is a very rich arcade, 
 of 6 arches in each bay. In the N. 
 aisle is the font, octagonal and of 
 Caen stone, designed by Slater , on 
 which is sculptured the ark, the 
 passage through the Bed Sea, and 
 the baptism and resurrection of our 
 Lord. The ancient tombs in tho 
 nave wore destroyed by the Puritans, 
 and there are only two left in the S. 
 aisle — one of them apparently being 
 that of a priest. There is also in 
 this aisle a brass to tho Earl of Lich- 
 field (d. 1854). 
 
 The 8. transept is of the date of 
 1220, and has sujierscded a Norman 
 one. Tho W. wall is adorned with 
 an K. E. arcade, and the windows are | 
 E. E., save that over the 8. door. J 
 
 which is Perp. In the S. wiudow of 
 the transept aisle is 6omo of the 
 same stained glass that is to be seen 
 in the Lady Chapel. The monu- 
 ments here are one to Anne Seward, 
 her father and mother, tho inscrip- 
 tion on which is by Sir Walter 
 Scott ; one to Bishop Smalbrooke 
 (d. 1749) ; one to the members of 
 the 80th regiment who fell at 
 Sobraon in 1840 ; and one to Adm. 
 Sir W. Parker (d. 1800); also to 
 Johnson and Garrick. Tho former 
 Was a native of Lichfield ; Garrick 
 was bom at Hereford, at the Angel 
 Inn, Feb. 20, 1710. 
 
 The N. transept is of rather later 
 date than the 8., and contains an 
 E. E. trefoiled arcade, and a Perp. 
 window filled with stained glass, 
 representing the principal founders 
 and benefactors of the cathedral. 
 In the E. aisle of tills transept is 
 the organ. 
 
 “ The work of 4 distinct periods 
 meets in the great piers of the 
 central tower,” viz. E. E., later E. E., 
 early Dec., and Perp. It rises but 
 one square above the roof, has on 
 each face canopied windows, each 
 of two lights trefoiled, with quatre- 
 foiled heads, and is battlemented, 
 with pinnacled turrets. The spire 
 is hexagonal, and crocketed, and its 
 very numerous windows give a great 
 lightness of appearance. 
 
 The choir-screen was designed by 
 Scott and is the work of SJndmore , as 
 are also the wrought gates opening 
 to tho N. and S. choir aisles. The 
 Lichfield screen, which was the first 
 of its work in tho kingdom — that of 
 Hereford being subsequent to it — “ is 
 remarkable for tho delicate manipu- 
 lation of its capitals, many of which, 
 derived from early examples of gold 
 and silver work, arc entirely ham- 
 mered from sheet copper.” 
 
 The choir, originally Norm., has 
 undergone several changes, and now 
 consists of 6 bays, of tho following 
 dates : — 1st 3 bays from tower, E. 
 E. ; 2nd 3 easternmost, Dec. ; the 
 
155 
 
 Route , 27 . — Lichfield : Cathedral. 
 
 3rd pier from tire tower being half 
 of each. There is no distinct trifo- 
 rium. The spandrils of the 3 western 
 arches are ornamented by statnes 
 (restored) of St. Christopher, St. 
 James, and St. Philip, on the S. side,, 
 and St. Peter, Mary Magdalen, and 
 the Virgin, on the N. The original 
 statues existed in the time of Pen- 
 nant, who took exception to the 
 fact that Mary Magdalen’s leg was 
 bare. The things to be noticed 
 particularly in the choir are the 
 altar and the reredos, designed by 
 Scott, the arcades of which contain 
 exquisite carvings of the Crucifixion, 
 emblems of the Evangelists, and angels 
 bearing instruments of the Passion. 
 The materials used were alabaster 
 from Tutbury and Derbyshire marble. 
 The pavement, by Minton , represents 
 the early history of the see in the 
 following subjects on incised slabs 
 by Clayton : — 
 
 1. The consecration of St. Chad to 
 the see of York. 
 
 2. His appointment to that of 
 Mercia. 
 
 3. The translation of his bones to 
 the present church. 
 
 4. Restoration after the civil war. 
 
 On the N. side of the chancel is 
 
 the diocesan memorial for Bishop 
 Lonsdale. It consists of an altar- 
 tomb, with recumbent figure by 
 Watts, under a crocketed canopy by 
 Sir G. G. Scott. 
 
 The choir aisles, partly E. E. and 
 partly Dec., contain a beautiful 
 arcade of canopied arches, divided by 
 slender buttresses ; the windows are 
 Dec. The monuments in the S. aisle 
 are those of Major Hodson (of Hod- 
 son’s Horse), killed at Lucknow, the 
 subject of which is the submission of 
 the King of Oude; of Archdeacon 
 Hodson, on the alabaster panels of 
 which are the Crucifixion, Ascension, 
 Burial, and Resurrection of our Lord 
 (both by Street ); the effigy of a 
 bishop (unknown); the tomb of 
 Bishop Hacket, whose effigy is 
 coloured. He was the zealous re- 
 
 storer of the cathedral after its dese- 
 cration by Parliamentary soldiers, 
 who had reduced it to such a state, 
 that the chapter-house and the vestry 
 only had a roof to shelter the clergy 
 when they took possession in June, 
 1660 (Aubreys Letters). The very 
 morning after he reached his see he 
 set his own servants and carriage 
 horses to work to remove the rubbish, 
 and ceased not his pious labours till 
 the whole building was brought back 
 to something like its original splen- 
 dour, though not without the expen- 
 diture of large sums of money on his 
 own part, and that of the chapter, 
 aided by subscriptions from the 
 gentry of the diocese. He held a 
 solemn reconsecration service on 
 Christmas-eve, 1669, and he died 
 Oct. 28, 1670. In reference to this 
 good cause are the mottoes round 
 his tomb, which was erected by his 
 son. Nor should his own well- 
 known “posie,” “Inserva Deo et 
 Isetare,” be forgotten. Under the 
 E. window of this aisle is the far- 
 famed monument of the two children 
 of the Rev. W. Robinson, the master- 
 piece of , Chantrey , whose art has 
 never more truthfully or exquisitely 
 represented the tranquillity of sleep 
 and the innocence of childhood 
 than in this beautiful group. The 
 design was sketched for Chantrey by 
 Stothard, though the introduction 
 of the snowdrops was the idea of 
 Allan Cunningham. Under the E. 
 window of the opposite aisle is 
 another monument by Chantrey, the 
 kneeling figure of Bishop Ryder 
 (d. 1836). 
 
 The retrochoir stands between 
 these windows and the Lady Chapel, 
 and formerly held the great shrine 
 of St. Chad. 
 
 The Lady Chapel, commenced by 
 Bishop Langton in 1296, is a con- 
 tinuation of the presbytery, and ter- 
 minates in a polygonal apse. The 
 windows were originally filled with 
 geometrical tracery, but have been 
 altered since the devastation at the 
 
1 5b 
 
 Route 27 . — Stourbridge to Burton-on-Trent. 
 
 siege. The arcade running round 
 the lower part of the chapel is of the 
 utmost elegance and richness. But 
 it is chiefly remarkable for its paint- 
 ed windows, two of which were made 
 by Sir John Betton, and are tilled 
 with coats of arms of the bishops and 
 prebends of Lichfield. The other 7 
 are probably the finest in this coun- 
 try. They were brought from the 
 ancient dissolved abbey of Hcrck- 
 enrode, a Cistercian nunnery near 
 Liege, by Sir Brooke Boothby, who 
 handsomely transferred them to the 
 cathedral for the price they had cost 
 him. viz. 200?., probably not one- 
 tenth of their actual value ; they are 
 admirable specimens of the art of 
 glass-painting and staining, as it 
 flourished in the hands of the scholars 
 of Van Eyck, at the beginning of the 
 16th cen'ty., in the Low Countries. 
 Mrs. Jameson attributes these de- 
 signs to Lambert Lombard, the first 
 and by far the best of the Italianized- 
 Flemish school of the 16th centy. 
 Two of the windows (date 1532) con- 
 tain portraits of members of the fa- 
 milies of De Lechy and Mettecoven, 
 benefactors of the abbey, with their 
 patron saints. One conspicuous 
 figure in the left-hand Window is the 
 Cardinal Everard de la Marc, Arch- 
 bishop of Liege (1505), on his knees, 
 with St. Lambert behind him. In 
 two other compartments are portraits 
 of knights of the illustrious houses 
 of Egmont, Flores, and Maximilian, 
 Counts of Buren. The other 5 win- 
 dows (date 1539) contain Scripture 
 subjects, many of which may easily 
 be identified, and exhibit in their 
 execution all the characters of the 
 early German and Flemish schools of 
 painting. 
 
 The beautiful Chanter-house is en- 
 tered from the N. aisle by a corridor, 
 lined with a fine arcade of E. E. 
 niches, curiously groined. The chap- 
 ter-house, an excellent specimen of 
 that style, is in plan an elongated 
 octagon, with a central clustered pier, 
 radiating into ribs, which support 
 
 the roof. The richly carved foliage* 
 of the capitals of the piers, as also 
 the arcade of 49 arches, deserve 
 attention. 
 
 Over the chapter-house is the Li- 
 brary, containing many valuable MSS. 
 and printed books, including a MS. 
 of Chaucer’s ‘Canterbury Tales; ’ the 
 orders of Charles I. for household 
 regulations, and St. Chad’s copy of 
 the first three Gospels, 720. The 
 illuminations are wonderfully elabo- 
 rate, and in the Irish style, with a 
 profusion of patterns. On one of the 
 leaves is the Apostles’ Creed, being 
 one of the earliest MSS. extant in 
 which this creed appears. The relics 
 of St. Chad are now deposited in the 
 Roman Catholic chapel at Birming- 
 ham. 
 
 The length of the cathedral within 
 is 375 ft., and its height is 60 ft. 
 from the pavement to the roof. The 
 building does not stand due E. and 
 W., but inclines 27 degrees to the N., 
 the walls of the choir and the nave 
 not being in a straight line. It 
 stands within a tranquil and neatly 
 kept close, laid out in grass-plots, and 
 planted with trees. On the N. side 
 are the Bishop’s palace (built 1687 
 by Bp. Wood, and enlarged by Bp. 
 Selwyn), and the Deanery, and on 
 the S. the prebendal houses, with 
 gardens stretching down to the Min- 
 ster pool. At the N.W. angle is 
 a remarkable timber house, and at 
 the S.W. Newton’s College for the 
 widows of the clergy. The closo 
 was walled and moated by Bishop 
 Langton — “ Lichfield's moated pile ” 
 — but the walls have been demo- 
 lished, and the moat is now the 
 bright, clear Minster pool, beside 
 which runs a pleasant public walk. 
 
 At the time of the Great Rebellion, 
 in 1643, the closo was strengthened 
 and put into a state of defence, and 
 garrisoned for the king, and the red 
 ling of defiance was hoisted on the 
 central tower ; the town, however, 
 took the opposite side. 
 
 Parliament soon despatched troops 
 
157 
 
 Route 27 . — Lichfield: Cathedral. 
 
 to attack and dislodge the Loyalists 
 from their stronghold, and the com- 
 mand was given to Lord Brooke, a 
 warm enthusiast, and in strong op- 
 position to both the Church and the 
 King of England, although Baxter, 
 in his 4 Saints’ Best/ enumerates him 
 as one of the persons whom he looks 
 forward to meeting in heaven. 
 
 On the second day of the assault, 
 while directing his artillery, planted 
 on the extremity of the causeway, 
 now called Dam-street (leading to the 
 Market-place), against the S.E. gate 
 of the close, a musket-shot, fired by 
 a deaf and dumb gentleman named 
 Dyott, posted on the central tower, 
 glanced through a side opening, and 
 struck him as he was coming out of 
 the’ porch of a house. This event, 
 which dispirited the assailants, and 
 caused them to cease their attacks 
 for the rest of the day, gave new life 
 to the loyal garrison, whose leaders 
 were not slow to point it out as a 
 visitation of Providence that Lord 
 Brooke, who had openly vowed the 
 extermination of episcopacy, and de- 
 struction of all cathedrals, had re- 
 ceived his death-wound from St. 
 Chad’s ch. upon St. Chad’s day. 
 Lord Brooke’s buff-coat was pre- 
 served at Warwick Castle until it 
 perished in the fire there in 1871, 
 and the gun with which he was shot 
 is in the possession of Captain Dyott, 
 of Freeford, near Lichfield. 
 
 “ Fanatic Brooke 
 
 The fair cathedral stormed and took ; 
 
 But thanks to God and good St. Chad, 
 
 A guerdon meet the spoiler had.” 
 
 Though the house in which Lord 
 Brooke was killed is removed, the 
 spot where he fell in Dam-street is 
 marked by a white marble tablet 
 in front of a modern red - brick 
 house. The siege was renewed, after 
 Lord Brooke’s death, with great 
 vigour by Sir John Gell, and the 
 want of ammunition and provisions 
 compelled the garrison of the close to 
 send a messenger in white, who was 
 conducted blindfold to the quarters 
 
 of the Parliamentary general to treat. 
 It surrendered March 5th, 1643. Not 
 many weeks after, it was regained 
 by the Eoyalists, headed by Prince 
 Eupert, and Villiers Duke of Buck- 
 ingham, who both fought in the 
 breach. 
 
 Lichfield was besieged for the 
 third time in 1646, and yielded only 
 when the cause of King Charles had 
 become hopeless. The lead was then 
 stripped from the cathedral, and, 
 with the bells, melted to make 
 bullets and cannon. 
 
 There is a pretty walk from the 
 cathedral by the side of Stowe Pool, 
 which is now the reservoir of the 
 South Stafford waterworks, passing 
 the spot where Dr. Johnson’s willow 
 stood, to Stowe, or St. Chad’s Ch.> an 
 interesting Gothic building, at the 
 further end of the pool. The S. 
 aisle, and the tower with its fine Dec. 
 window and massive buttresses, are 
 the oldest portion, the N. aisle, 
 chancel, clerestory, and S. porch 
 having been restored. Here St. 
 Chad was buried before his re- 
 mains were transferred to their costly 
 shrine in the cathedral. The saint 
 lived here in a cell the life of a pious 
 anchorite. The ch. contains a monu- 
 mental tablet to Lucy Porter; J ohn- 
 son’s stepdaughter. His favourite, 
 Molly Aston, lived on Stowe Hill. St. 
 Chad’s Well, in a garden hard by, 
 was looked upon as holy, and was in 
 former times dressed out with flowers 
 on Holy Thursday. The tree called 
 Johnson’s willow, because it was sup- 
 posed to have been planted by him, 
 was blown down in 1815. A slip, 
 however, from it now represents the 
 size and vigour of the former one. 
 Johnson’s father had a parchment 
 manufactory near the spot, and was 
 prosecuted by the Excise for some 
 infringement of the law, which per- 
 haps accounts for the son’s acrimo- 
 nious definition of the word “Excise” 
 in his Dictionary. 
 
 St. Mary’s Ch ., in the Market-place, 
 contains a monument to one of the 
 
158 
 
 Route 27 . — Stourbridge to Burton-on- Trent. 
 
 sons of Sir Richard Dyott. The eh., 
 which was of the poorest style of 
 the 18th centy., had, in 1853, a lofty 
 tower and spire added by Street at 
 the W. end, and the body has since 
 been rebuilt as a memorial of Bishop 
 Lonsdale. In St. Michael's Ch ., which 
 is outside the town, Johnson’s 
 father, the bookseller, was buried, 
 opposite the pulpit. The inscription 
 on the pavement is by his son, whoso 
 own name appears in the baptismal 
 register. There is also a monument 
 to Mrs. Cobb, whom Johnson con- 
 sidered the 44 most impudent ” woman 
 he had ever met with. During 
 some alterations, a recumbent figure, 
 supposed to be that of William de 
 Waltone, full-length, in civil costume 
 of the time of Richard H., was dis- 
 covered and deposited in the chancel. 
 “ The chancel and aisles of tliis ch. 
 seem to have been rebuilt ; the pillars 
 and arches, the groining of the chan- 
 cel, the woodwork of the ceiling in 
 the nave and aisles, and the windows 
 generally, filled as they are with 
 beautiful painted glass, are notable 
 objects.” The ch. has a stately mo- 
 nument by Street , erected in honour of 
 Archdeacon Hodson, its former rector. 
 
 St. John's llospitul, in St. John’s- 
 street, was built 1495, soon after the 
 general introduction of chimneys, 
 and has 8 of these appendages pro- 
 jecting into the street like buttresses, 
 with small windows between them. 
 It is a curious s}>ecimen of domestic 
 architecture. Tho-chapel (restored) 
 has an open timbered roof, and win- 
 dows of Perp. and Dec. date. 
 
 The Friary , in Bore-street, once the 
 old Franciscan establishment, is now 
 a private house, which Inis built into 
 the wall the tombstone of Richard the 
 Merchant, its founder, together with 
 some verses in Lombardic characters. 
 
 Lichfield has no little glory in the 
 number of eminent men born in it 
 at the head of whom may be placed 
 Samuel Johnson. The house in which 
 he was born, 1709, is at the comer of 
 the Market-place, partly resting on 
 
 3 stone pillars ; it is now a draper’s. 
 It is much to the credit of the cor- 
 poration that they presented to him, 
 in token of respect, the lease of this 
 tenement, which had been built by 
 his father, and which he held till 
 his own death. A Statue of the great 
 moralist, hi a somewhat rustic style 
 of art, was set up in the Market- 
 place in 1838 by the Rev. Chancellor 
 Law. The bas-reliefs are intended 
 to represent events in his life. 1. 
 Listening to a sermon from Dr. 
 Sacheverell, perched on his father’s 
 shoulders.* 2. Carried on the back 
 of his schoolfellows to school. 3. 
 Doing penance in the Market-place, 
 Uttoxeter, for having disobeyed his 
 father. After his marriage with a 
 lady tw T ice as old as himself, he at- 
 tempted to establish a school at Edi-.d 
 Hall, a large square-built mansion, 
 surmounted by a cupola and balus- 
 trades, about a quarter of an hour's 
 walk from the city. Among his 
 pupils was Garrick. Boswell re- 
 cords that, in visiting Lichfield 
 with Johnson for the first time, he 
 ascertained that oats, which Johnson 
 had sneered at as “ the food of men 
 in Scotland,” was also the food of his 
 fellow-townsmen. Other buildings 
 associated with him are, Lucy Porter’s 
 house in Tamworth-street, and that of 
 Mrs. Gastrall at Stowe-liill, which wns 
 afterwards successively occupied by 
 the authorof‘8andford and Merton,* 
 and Miss Edgeworth’s father. Other 
 distinguished natives are, Judge 
 Weston, Ashmolo the antiquary. 
 Bishop Smallridge, and Bishop 
 Newton. 
 
 The George Hotel wns the scone of 
 the 4 Beau's Htmtagcm ; * the author, 
 Farquliar, was stationed hero some 
 time as a recruiting officer, and 
 makes his Boniface praise the ale. 
 
 • This episode of Johnson's life lias been 
 shewn by Mr. C'roker (• Boswell/ p. C) to lx 
 apocryphal, us it has been proved by the 
 corporation records that he could only have 
 been 9 months old when Dr. Sacheverell 
 visited the town. 
 
159 
 
 Boute 27 . — Wall . — Alrewas. 
 
 Lichfield has 2 Stations, which 
 communicate : the South Stafford, or 
 City Stat., near St. John s-street, and 
 the L. and N.-W., or Trent Valley 
 Stat., on the Burton road, 2 m. from 
 the Cathedral ; but the omnibus and 
 fiy service is very indifferent. 
 
 Borrowcop Mill , h m * S.E. from 
 the city, may be visited for the sake 
 of its view ; of it Johnson writes, 
 “I believe you may find Borow or 
 Boroughcop Hill in my dictionary, 
 under Cop or Cob. Nobody here 
 knows what the name imports.” 
 
 The antiquary may visit Wall, 
 a village with a pretty ch., and 
 charmingly situated on a ridge of 
 wooded hill, about 2 m. to the S. 
 of Lichfield. Wall was the Etocetum 
 of the Romans, though scarce any 
 foundations are visible. Coins of 
 the reigns of Nero and Domitian, as 
 well as portions of Roman pave- 
 ment, have been dug up here, and 
 bricks, tiles, and pottery may be fre- 
 quently found on the road. The Wat- 
 ting Street passes through it. “A 
 trench, dug northwards through the 
 foundations of the wall from which 
 the place is named, and which for- 
 merly, in the memory of the inhabit- 
 ants, existed breast-liigh, brought to 
 light the base of a square apartment, 
 with walls of strong masonry, and a 
 floor of plaster laid on extremely 
 hard concrete. This apartment had 
 been plastered and coloured in red, 
 green, yellow, and white, with well- 
 made stripes.” — Garner. Several of 
 the objects found are preserved in 
 the Museum at Lichfield. 
 
 \ m. S. of Wall is Chesterfield, 
 where the Elizabethan half-timber 
 manor house of the Allens is worth 
 notice. Other hamlets, with names 
 suggestive of the Roman dominion, 
 occur in the neighbourhood, as Foss- 
 way, Streetway, &c. 
 
 In the vicinity of Lichfield are 
 many fine seats, of which notice 
 should be taken. 
 
 2 m. N. is Elmhurst Mall (W. Mott, 
 
 Esq.) ; and 1 m. W. is Maple Keys 
 (Mrs. Pole Shaw). 1 m. E. is Whit- 
 tington Hall (J. Baggaley, Esq.), 
 very near which is Freeford (Col. 
 Hyott), a very old seat of that 
 family. Swinfen Hall (C. W. Swin- 
 fen Broun, Esq.), a short remove 
 from Freeford, is a noble domain, 
 with a fine sheet of water. It was 
 the property of John Swinfen, a 
 sturdy Parliamentarian, who fought 
 against Charles I., laboured hard to 
 exclude the Duke of York from the 
 throne, and was a warm adherent 
 of the Prince of Orange (d. 1694) ; 
 he . was commonly called “ Russet- 
 coat,” from his affected plainness of 
 dress. 1 m. E. of Swinfen is Pack- 
 ington Hall (R. T. K. Levett, Esq.), 
 a handsome house built in 1760, by 
 the father of James Wyatt, who thus 
 brought himself into notice. 
 
 3 m. S. of Lichfield is Shenstone , 
 which was granted by William I. 
 to Robert d’Oiley, and has been 
 since held by many successive Earls 
 of Warwick. Only the tower of the 
 old cruciform Perp. ch. remains .; a 
 new ch. in the Early Dec. style was 
 built on another site in 1853. Shen- 
 stone Lodge (Lady Parker) is a plain 
 house of the time of George I. ; the 
 estate was held by the Grendons in 
 1236. 
 
 From Lichfield the S. Stafford 
 Rly. continues a N.E. course, cross- 
 ing the London and North-Western 
 (Trent Valley) line (Rte. 28), and 
 keeping parallel with the ancient 
 Iknield Street, which runs from Eto- 
 cetum to Derventio (Little Chester, 
 near Derby). 
 
 28 m. Alrewas (Stat.). The Ch ., 
 which was one of the earliest pre- 
 bends of Lichfield, is mixed Dec. 
 and Perp., and has been partially 
 restored. It contains a Norm, door, 
 a high-pitched chancel-roof, a good 
 Perp, font, and some ancient carv- 
 ings. In the village there is a con- 
 siderable tape manufactory. 
 
 | m. S. is Fradley Hall, a half- 
 timbered house, with the arms of 
 
160 
 
 Route 28 . — Birmingham to Burton-on- Trent . 
 
 the Gorings over the door ; it be- 
 longed to the Gilberts in the early 
 part of the 17th centy. About 1 m. 
 from the station the rly. crosses the 
 Trent close to its junction with the 
 Tame, and very soon after unites 
 with the Midland Rly. at Wichnor 
 Junction , the South Staffordshire 
 line here ceasing, although passen- 
 gers are conveyed without change 
 of carriage to Burton. (Rte. 28.) 
 
 ROUTE 28. 
 
 BIRMINGHAM TO BURTON - ON - 
 TRENT, BY TAMWORTH. 
 
 MIDLAND RLY. 31J m. 
 
 Leaving Birmingham by the New 
 Street Stat. the line pursues a N.E. 
 course (see Handbook for Warwick- 
 shire), and enters Staffordshire at 
 Tam worth. 
 
 18£ m. Tamworth (Stat. ,* which 
 also serves for the Trent Valley line, 
 Rte. 30) ( Hotel : Castle), is a well-to- 
 do midland town (Pop. 4500), having 
 a fair number of opulent residents, 
 and dependent partly on the sur- 
 rounding rich grazing district, and 
 partly upon its own internal trade, 
 which, beside a shirt-making factory, 
 embraces a few manufactures — of 
 calicoes, tapes, cottons, nails, &c. — 
 together with several collieries in the 
 vicinity. It is partly in Warwick- 
 shire, standing on both banks of the 
 Tame, over which and its tributaries 
 there are several bridges. There are 
 two large stretches of common land, 
 called the Warwick and the Stafford 
 moors, over which the inhabitants 
 
 have rights of pasture. A thousand 
 years ago the natural advantages 
 of this place induced the Saxon 
 kings of Mercia to select it as a 
 residence. Deeds and charters exist 
 dated from the Royal palace of 
 Tamworth in the 8th and 9th cen- 
 turies. “No one who looks on the 
 district — no one who sees the ex- 
 tent of its woodlands, the delight- 
 ful rivers that water it, enriching the 
 spacious meadows that border them, 
 who sees also the extensive cham- 
 paign country, affording the oppor- 
 tunity of arable cultivation for plea- 
 sure and profit, can be surprised to 
 find that, in the earliest times, it was 
 the chosen seat of those who were 
 the conquerors of the country .” — Sir 
 P. Peel. 
 
 In the fields W. of the town, 
 says the legend, the combat took 
 place between Sir Lancelot of the 
 Hall and Sir Tarquin, knights of 
 the Round Table ; and a castle wa3 
 built near the junction of the Tame 
 and the Anker by Ethelfleda, the 
 daughter of Alfred. The town was 
 given by William I. to Robert Mar- 
 mion, of Fontenay in Normandy, who 
 thus became Lord of “ Tamworth 
 tower and town.” From the Mar- 
 rnions it descended to the Frevilles 
 and the Ferrers, and from them, 
 with the barony, to the Marquis 
 Townshend, who is now lord of the 
 manor. 
 
 The Castle (occupied by T. Cooke, 
 Esq.) occupies the site of Ethel fleda’s 
 fort, on the rt. bank of the Tame, 
 but is mainly a Jacobean building, 
 placed on a lofty artificial mound ; 
 its most striking feature is a mult- 
 angular ivy-clad tower. The hall 
 has an open roof of wood, springing 
 nearly from the floor, and is curious, 
 but very gloomy. Two chambers are 
 panelled and decorated with armorial 
 Wrings. There is little else to 
 see in the interior, which is fitted up 
 as a modern residence. From the 
 leads of the tower is a very fine 
 
j Route 28. — Tamivorth. — Drayton Bassett. 161 
 
 view of the Yale of Trent, Drayton 
 Manor, and Lichfield spires. 
 
 The Ch ., dedicated to St. Edith, 
 the daughter of King Edgar, who is 
 buried here, is a very fine building, 
 of Dec. and Perp. dates, with a 
 handsome and conspicuous tower, 
 intended to carry a spire, of which 
 the base only remains. The first 
 Marmion, according to the legend, 
 seized all the property of the ch., but 
 on receiving a nocturnal visit from the 
 saint, he not only restored the spoil 
 but gave many additional manors, 
 and made the church collegiate, 
 which it remained until the Disso- 
 lution. The Norm. ch. was burnt in 
 1345, but some fragments remain, 
 worked up in the present building, 
 which has been in part restored by 
 Butterfield. There is a crypt filled 
 with human bones, and, in the 
 tower, a curious double staircase, 
 communicating, the one with the in- 
 side, the other with the outside, both 
 distinct though intertwining. In the 
 chancel are several monuments of 
 early date, presumably of the Mar- 
 mions and the Frevilles, but the great 
 monument of the last of the Ferrers 
 has now been placed under the tower. 
 To the E. of the ch. are some rude 
 walls of early date, and in Church- 
 street is a picturesque timber house, 
 figured in Parker’s 1 Dom. Archi- 
 tecture/ 
 
 Thomas Guy, the bookseller and 
 founder of the noble London hospital 
 that bears his name, represented 
 Tamworth for 7 Parliaments ; he 
 founded some almshouses, and rebuilt 
 the Town-hall (to which the first Sir 
 Robert Peel made additions), which 
 stands on the arches of an older 
 building. In front of it is a bronze 
 statue of Sir Robert Peel, the Mini- 
 ster, who took much interest in the 
 town, and was mainly instrumental 
 in founding its present flourishing 
 Natural History and Antiquarian 
 Society. 
 
 Distances . — Birmingham, 18£ m. ; 
 
 Burton-on-Trent, 13 ; Lichfield, 7 ,* 
 Stafford, 23 ; Rugby, 27. 
 
 1^ m. S. of Tamworth is Fazeley , 
 where in 1785 Mr. Peel established 
 his cotton-mills, and promoted the 
 construction of the canal by which 
 Fazeley communicates with, the 
 northern counties. 
 
 3 m. S.W. of Tamworth is Drayton 
 Bassett , and the house of Drayton 
 Manor (Sir Robert Peel). The 
 manor once belonged to Hugh Lupus, 
 Earl of Chester, and was granted by 
 him to Richard Bassett, the son of 
 the great justiciary of Henry I., in 
 marriage with his granddaughter, 
 Maud. The Bassetts held it till 
 1390, when it passed into the hands 
 of the Staffords, and it was forfeited 
 on the attainder of the Duke of 
 Buckingham. It afterwards was the 
 residence of Lettice, countess of 
 Essex, the mother of the favourite 
 of Queen Elizabeth, who visited 
 him here in one of her progresses, 
 as Queen Victoria did the father of 
 the present owner in 1843. The 
 countess survived her son, and died 
 at Drayton at a very advanced age. 
 After the death of her grandson, the 
 Parliamentary general, it came to the 
 Thynnes, and the first Marquis of 
 Bath sold it in 1790 to Mr. Peel. 
 The fine old ch. was pulled down 
 in 1792, and replaced by the present 
 very plain brick edifice. In it is 
 buried Sir Robert Peel, the states- 
 man, who refused a tomb in West- 
 minster Abbey, to lie here beside his 
 father, the first baronet. The old 
 manor-house was a timbered struc- 
 ture, but the existing one (which 
 is not shown to the public) is 
 a handsome modem mansion, de- 
 signed by Smirlce in a style neither 
 Italian nor Elizabethan, but relieved 
 in its outline by towers and turrets. 
 In extension of the north front of 
 the house is the picture gallery, 
 forming a wing 100 ft. long. The 
 exterior, which is Elizabethan, is 
 decorated by 4 stone statues of 
 
1G2 
 
 Route 23 . — Birmingham to Burton-on-Trcnt. 
 
 Rubens, Vandyck, Reynolds, and ! 
 Lawrence. The portrait-gallery is 
 very interesting, consisting of eminent 
 statesmen and men of celebrity iu 
 literature and the arts and sciences. 
 
 2 m. N.W. of Drayton is Hints , 
 where the Grecian eh. has monu- 
 ments of the Floy era. On Hints 
 common a pig of lead weighing 
 150 lbs. was discovered in 1771, 
 which bore the inscription “Imp. 
 Vesp. VII. T. Imp. Cos.” 1 m. 
 N.W. is Weeford, the ch. of which 
 contains some beautiful stained 
 glass brought from France at the 
 time of the lirst Revolution. 
 
 At Can we 11, 1 m. S. of Hints, a 
 small Benedictine priory once ex- 
 isted, founded in 1142 by Geva. tho 
 daughter of Hugh Lupus. St. Mod- 
 wena’s well indicates the site. 
 Canicell Hall (Col. Loftus) is a 
 handsome modern honse, by Wyatt. 
 
 From theTamworth Stat. the line 
 runs northward, passing on W. the 
 village of Wigginton, beyond which 
 is Comberford Hall (C. H. Farmer, 
 Esq.), once the seat of an old Sta- 
 fordshire family of tho same name. 
 On E. of Wigginton is £7 atfold, 
 where the little ch. has several mo- 
 numents of the Wolfe retails. Stat fold 
 Hall (F. S. Fipe-Wolferstan, Esq.) 
 is an Elizabethan mansion, with an 
 octangular turret built us an obser- 
 vatory by Francis Wolferstan, tho 
 friend of Plot ; he was a lawyer, a 
 vehement Jucobite, and a very in- 
 different poet. 2 m. N.E. is Thorpe 
 Constantine, the lofty spire of the 
 ch. l>eing a good landmark. Tliurpe 
 Hall (Rev. G. Inge). 
 
 23 m. Elford and Haselonr (Stat.). 
 The village of Ilaselour, which lies 
 X., is very small. Almost adjoining 
 E. is Ilarluston, where then; is an 
 old timbered Hall of tho Vernons, 
 who were seated on this spot from 
 the 12th to the 10th conty., when 
 George Vernon of Harlaston removed 
 into Derby fhi re, where he became 
 so ]>optilar that he was commonly 
 known as “ the King of the Peak.’ 1 
 
 2 m. E. is Clifton CampviUe , where 
 tin; handsome ch. has a spire 160 ft. 
 high. Tho ch. contains a bracket 
 brass for somo unknown lady (c. 
 1360), a fine alabaster table-tomb 
 for Sir John Vernon and his wife 
 Ellon, 1545, and monuments by 
 llysltrach for Sir Charles (1721) and 
 Sir Richard Pye (1724). Clifton 
 Hall (II. J. Pye, Esq.) was begun 
 in 1708 by Sir Charles Pye, who 
 built the wings before the centre, and 
 was unable to finish it according to 
 the plans. 
 
 1 m. W. of stat. is Elford , on tho 
 river Tame, said to derive its name 
 from the number of eels formerly 
 found in the river. Elford Hall (the 
 seat of the Hon. Mrs. Grevillft How- 
 ard) is the successor of a mansion 
 at which it is said Richmond slept 
 tho night before the battle of Bos- 
 worth Field. The Dec. ch. (partially 
 restored by Street ) contains several re- 
 markable monuments : — 1. Sir Thos. 
 Arderne and w ife (c. 1400), in rich 
 costume, he wearing the collar of SS., 
 while around are statuettes of mourn- 
 ers. 2. Sir John Stanley, in armour 
 (d. 1447). 3. A grandson of Sir 
 
 John Stanley, who was killed when 
 a child by a tennis-ball. It repre- 
 sents a youth in a long garment anti 
 curled hair, with a l>all in one hand 
 and pointing to his ear with the 
 other, with the motto of * Ubi dolor, 
 ibi digitus/’ 4. A fine altar-tomb to 
 Sir Wm. Smyth (1526), between his 
 2 wives, one of w hom w as Isabella 
 Neville, the niece of the King-maker. 
 The Stanley and Smyth tombs have 
 becu restored by | Richardson . To 
 the S. of the village, near a point 
 where tho river is crossod f>y a 
 bridge to Fisherwick (Bte. 30), 
 there an* two tumuli or “lows,** 
 called Robin Hood's Butts, near 
 w hieh there must have been a British 
 or Komun ruud, as a farm adjacent 
 Liars the name of the Port way. 
 
 24 j m. Crozall. Tho ch. (in 
 Derbyshire), ou the lmnks of tho 
 
Route 2 8. — Bar ton-under -Needwood, 
 
 163 
 
 Mease, contains several monuments 
 of the Curzons. S. of the village is 
 a farmhouse, called Oakley, formerly 
 a manor of Sir John Stanley’s, where 
 Edward IY. used to stay when 
 hunting in the neighbourhood. A 
 little beyond Croxall, near the junc- 
 tion of the Trent and the Tame, the 
 rly. crosses the former river, the bor- 
 ders of which are' swampy, by a low 
 viaduct J m. long, resting on piles 
 driven 15 ft. below the bed of the 
 river. The cost of this was 14,000Z. 
 At the junction of the two rivers the 
 stream is augmented by that of the 
 Mease, a small brook that takes its 
 rise in Leicestershire. On the N. 
 bank of the Trent is Wichnor Junction 
 (Ete. 27), where the South Stafford- 
 shire line falls in. Wichnor ch. is 
 small, with a square tower. There 
 was formerly a moated Hall, which 
 has given place to a plain brick 
 Lodge (T. J. Levett, Esq.), built on 
 a spot further removed from the 
 river floods. The manor, like several 
 neighbouring ones, was granted by 
 John of Gaunt to Sir Philip Somer- 
 ville on the tenure that the holder 
 should always (except in Lent) keep 
 a flitch of bacon, and other pro- 
 visions, to be given to any man 
 who had been married a year and 
 a day, and would thus swear, 
 “Hear ye, Sir Philip de Somer- 
 ville, Lord of Wichenor, mayn- 
 tennor and gyver of this baconne; 
 I, A B, sithe I wedded my wife, and 
 sithe I had her in my kepyng and 
 at my wylle by a year and day after 
 our marriage, I would not have 
 changed for none other, fairer ne 
 fouler, richer ne poorer, &c. And 
 if the said B were sole and I sole, I 
 would take her to be my wyfe before 
 all the wymen of the world. So help 
 me God and his saints, and all 
 fleshes ! ” The condition of the 
 claimant having been ascertained by 
 the oath of two witnesses, he re- 
 ceived, if a freeman, half a quarter 
 of wheat and a cheese, but if a villein, 
 only half a quarter of rye, in addi- 
 
 tion to the bacon. The happy pair 
 were then escorted on horseback to 
 the boundary of the manor by the 
 tenants with music and rejoicing; 
 and the sub-tenant of the manor of 
 Eudlowe (for a long time of the name 
 of Knightly) had to furnish carriage, 
 li that is to say, a horse and a saddle, 
 a sack and a pryle,” to convey the gift 
 a day’s journey out of the county if 
 necessary. He was to be paid for 
 this by the holder of Wichnor, and 
 if he refused to perform the service 
 he was liable to a fine of 100 shill- 
 ings. The custom is amusingly de- 
 tailed in the ‘Spectator,’ but more 
 accurately in Blount’s ‘ Jocular 
 Tenures,’ where it is said that the 
 bacon was also claimable by any 
 ecclesiastic if non-repentant of his 
 profession. The custom has long 
 fallen into disuse, but, as a memorial, 
 a wooden flitch hangs in the kitchen 
 of the Lodge. 
 
 On the rt. or Derbyshire bank of 
 the Trent is Calton Hall, from whence 
 a prettily wooded ridge skirts the 
 river to 
 
 27t| m. Barton and Walton (Stat), 
 
 Barton-under-Needwood is on the 
 confines of the forest (Ete. 29). The 
 Perp. ch. was built by Dr. John 
 Taylor, Master of the Eolls, 1527- 
 1533, one of three sons of a pea- 
 sant in whose cottage Henry VII. 
 was entertained by the forester 
 when he had lost his way hunting. 
 This hospitality he repaid by pro- 
 viding for his sons. 3 m. N. is 
 Tatenhill, in which, according to 
 Erdeswick, “ there is nothing worth 
 noting, except a man should account 
 it for a beauty, whereof I never 
 heard any man make any great ac- 
 count except Thomas Leeson (1539), 
 a poor priest that was parson of 
 Packington, in Leicestershire, and 
 was born here, who, commending, 
 in a sort, his birthplace, left these 
 verses upon his monument in Pack- 
 ington ch. : — 
 
 “ Me Tatenell genuit, ast Ashbi devia nutrix ; 
 
 Packington tumulus, sic mea fata ferunt.” 
 
1G4 
 
 Itoulc 28 . — Birmingham to Burton-on-Trcnt. 
 
 Erdcswick. however, must have been 
 but an indifferent judge of architec- 
 ture, or he would have had a word 
 of commendation for Tatenhill oh., 
 which is a large and handsome Perp. 
 edifice, and has been well restored. 
 At Kangemoor, a part of the parish 
 verging on the forest, is lJangemoor 
 Hall (M. T. Bass, Esq.), a modern 
 Italian structure in a good park. 
 There is also a district ch. built by 
 Mr. Buss. 
 
 31 J m. Hurt on -on -Trent (Stat.). 
 {Inns: White Hart; Queen; Crown) 
 is a rapidly increasing town on the 
 1. bank of the Trent, and the borders 
 of Derbyshire and Staffordshire 
 (Pop. *20,000). Though consisting 
 of very regular and monotonous 
 streets of red-brick houses, it is 
 prettily situated at the foot of Scalp- 
 ley Hill, which rises on the opposite 
 side of the stream. 
 
 Burton, once famous for its alabas- 
 ter works (the marble came from 
 Need wood forest , is now renowned 
 all the world over for its ale and 
 bitter beer, to supply the demands 
 for which no less than ‘25 firms of 
 brewers have erected enormous esta- 
 blishments. These occupy 174 acres 
 of land, and are ** solid, bold, capa- 
 cious buildings, neither deficient nor 
 conspicuous in architectural detail, 
 but well and studiously arranged, and 
 systematically connected by chains 
 of rlys., — which, ns sanctioned by 
 Parluincnt in 18G0, cross the streets 
 on the level, — the goods stations 
 with the malting offices, and these 
 with the breweries, the cooperages, 
 the stores and the yards.** These 
 private lines are more than 10 m. 
 long. The principal firms are Bass 
 and Co., Allsopp and Sms, Ind and 
 Coope. Salt and Co., and tin* Burton 
 Brewery Co., and the rest are all on 
 a scale that would be esteemed very 
 large elsewhere. Among them they 
 employ, either directly or indirectly, 
 almost the entire imputation. On 
 application at the counting-house, 
 
 permission is readily granted to in- 
 spect any of these works, and any 
 visitor to the town would do well 
 to avail himself of it. The premises 
 of Messrs. Bass and Co. occupy more 
 than GO acres, and the quantity of 
 malt brewed in the season amounts 
 to not less than 100,000 quarters; 
 more than 1800 jx*ople an* employed 
 in Burton alone, 500,000 casks are 
 in use, and more than 5 in. of pri- 
 vate rlys. belong to t he firm. The 
 brewers employ spring water in 
 prefen*nce to that from the Trent, 
 and the brewings generally com- 
 mence in October, when the weather 
 cools. “ The ale of Burton has been 
 celebrated from an antiquity too 
 remote to trace with certainty ; but 
 its consumption wus principally 
 local, not extending much beyond 
 Derby until IG‘23, when it was first 
 introduced into London under tho 
 name of Derby ale/’ Even tho 
 monks of the abbey of Burton were 
 famous for their production of good 
 ale. Camden remarks on the cele- 
 brity of Derby ale and its exceeding 
 wholesomeness ; although, he says, 
 all persons did not shore in his opi- 
 nion, for Henry d’Avranehes, poet 
 laureate to Henry HI., wrote — 
 
 "Of thia strange drink, so like liie Stygian 
 lake 
 
 (Men call It ale), I know not wliat to make." 
 
 The ale brewed down to tho close 
 of the last century was a very strong 
 drink, and was almost entirely siq>- 
 plied to the English ships that 
 traded to Northern climates ; but 
 in 18‘22 one Hodgson, a London 
 brewer who had settled at Burton, 
 brewed something like the present 
 bitter ale, which ho accomplished 
 in a tonp>t in his counting-house, 
 and called it 44 B<>mhay beer.” A 
 retinsl East India captain. named 
 Chapman, improved on this, and 
 “ Burton alo " soon attained tho 
 celebrity that lias made tho names 
 of Bass and Allsopp “ household 
 words ” nil over the world Moly- 
 neux, ‘ Burton and its Breweries '). 
 
Route 28 . — Burton-on-Trent. 
 
 165 
 
 A great part of the town belongs 
 to the Marquis of Anglesey, this and 
 other manors having been bestowed 
 on his ancestor Sir William, 1st 
 Lord Paget, by Henry VIII. 
 
 Burton is first mentioned in the 
 9th centy., when St. Modwena, an 
 Irish abbess well skilled in medicine, 
 having cured Alfred the Great of 
 some disease, received a grant of land 
 here, on which a ch. was afterwards 
 raised to her memory. A century 
 later an abbey was founded, which 
 grew rich and famous, and around 
 which the town sprang up. The 
 44 Annals ” of this house are well 
 known to historians. 
 
 Of the 4 churches of Burton, 3 are 
 of modern foundation. The old ch., 
 which is dedicated to St. Modwena, 
 and was supposed to cover her 
 grave, suffered much in the civil 
 war, being then almost reduced to a 
 ruin ; it was in 1720 replaced by the 
 present Palladian structure, which 
 contains a good altar-piece of white 
 marble. In the register, which com- 
 mences in 1538, is an entry of the 
 baptism, on Dec. 28, 1572, of Wil- 
 liam, the son of the 3rd Lord Paget, 
 to whom Lord Burleigh was god- 
 father. Though but a slight remove 
 from the high street the churchyard 
 is a pretty retired spot, sloping down 
 to the Trent, and commanding a 
 fine view of the opposite hills. At 
 a short distance E. are some small 
 remains of the famous Benedictine 
 Abbey , founded by Wulfric Spot, 
 Earl of Mercia, 1002, and dedicated 
 to St. Withold. Readers of 4 Ivanhoe’ 
 will remember that the Baron Front- 
 de-Boeuf speaks of it as “ a howlePs 
 nest worth the harrying.” In the 
 grounds of a modern residence, 
 called Abbey House, are to be seen 
 n portion of the old gateway, and 
 the outlines of a noble arch built up 
 in the gable. In Sinai Park, a name 
 borne by the high ground to the W. 
 of the town, was a cell attached to 
 this abbey. 
 
 But until 1867, the most remark- 
 
 able antiquity of Burton was its 
 Bridge , which certainly existed in 
 the reign of Henry II., and was 
 supposed to date from the Norman 
 era. It consisted of 36 arches, 
 scarce any two of which were alike 
 either in size or style, and it stretched 
 across the river in a curved line, as 
 its remains still show. A severe 
 engagement took place on it in 1322, 
 between the Royal forces under 
 Edward II., and those under the 
 Earl of Lancaster, who was defeated 
 with much loss, and put to flight. 
 He was soon after taken, carried to 
 his own castle at Pontefract, and 
 beheaded. The king erected a 
 chapel on the bridge for priests to 
 pray for the souls of the slain. The 
 bridge, from its length and narrow- 
 ness, was a very defensible position, 
 and Sir Thomas Tyldesley, in the 
 civil war, made six ineffectual at- 
 tacks before he could force his way 
 over it. The Midland Rly. Company 
 have built a handsome stone bridge 
 in its stead, which is continued as a 
 viaduct over the many lines of rly. 
 that occupy the 1. bank of the river, 
 and serve as 44 ale docks” for the 
 different brewing firms. 
 
 Burton is an important rly. centre ; 
 it lies on the Midland line, but both 
 the N. and S. Staffordshire com- 
 panies use the stat. ; and the Great 
 Northern Company has a line from 
 Nottingham to Burton in course of 
 construction. 
 
 2 m. to the S. of the town, on the 
 Derbyshire side of the Trent, is 
 Drahelow Hall (Sir H. W. des Voeux), 
 which is described in Domesday 
 Book as being held by Nigel de 
 Stafford by the service of providing 
 a bow without a string, a quiver and 
 12 arrows. 
 
 Distances. — Derby, 11 m. ; Tut- 
 bury, 5 ; Tamworth, 13; Swan- 
 nington, 13§ ; Ashby-de-la-Zouch, 
 9J ; Lichfield, 12. 
 
166 
 
 1 ionic 29 . — Wnl sill to Ilufjclci/. 
 
 ROUTE 20. 
 
 WALSALL TO RUGELEY. BT CANNOCK, 
 f NEEDWOOD FOREST] 
 
 L. A\r» n.-w. rlt. 15 m. 
 
 Thi*. the Cannock and Rugeley 
 branch. serves l»oth at a colliery rly. 
 fp'iu tb coal district** of Cannock 
 Chase, and as a connecting link 
 between mid-Staff •nbhiro and the 
 
 North. 
 
 Soon aft* r leaving Walsall it np- 
 prvAches the high grounds of Chn- 
 nock Chase. 
 
 1 } m. Bhrhhfll$ ’ Stat.), an out- 
 skirt of Walsall. with ironworks. and 
 •omc collieries. 
 
 2| m. HU'Tirich (Stat.). This is 
 a considerable manufacturing dis- 
 trict, tin? inhabitants of which art* 
 alnvsrt entirely employed in the 
 making of stirrups, hits, mddhiV 
 needle*, and nwl-blnd*-*, the latter 
 Wing a speciality of Itlnxwich. as 
 an* l*ck» at Will* nhall (Pop. DOOO). 
 The eh. was built early in the 18th 
 rrnty.. but a rude pillar. i pfMi tly 
 the shaft of a rnw*. stands in the 
 rh.-yard N'Mjo* the inscription to 
 P 
 
 l!am|d**n. lienee the line ascent b 
 an elevated country to 
 
 f>) m. Wffimy aad Ciset Ilri/lp 
 (Stat.). Wyrley is a onllkf) vil- 
 lage, wsth a c»»d mr»|rm eh., ami 
 a l*op. of 2500. It stands on the 
 Walling Strret. and the river Penk 
 rises in its nrighbwirbond. Aleqt 
 2 m. to the K. f mi War I* twren 
 Wyrley ami RrawnhilU, K, is If grtey 
 
 (7 rose, a curious mansion of the 17th 
 ccnty., which was formerly in the 
 posy* ssion of the Fowlers of Brrwood 
 (Btr. 26), but latterly in that of the 
 family «*f Huskey. Among the liar- 
 loian MSS. is a letter from Chris- 
 topher King.dahd 1604. in which he 
 mys * 4 he is so charm* d with his good 
 and learned friend l>r. Fowke [the 
 translator of 4 Plutarch's Lives*], as 
 to stay at Wyrley much longer than 
 he intended, where he enjoys all the 
 pleasures of study and retirement" 
 
 8 m. rVinaoek (Stat.). (Inn : 
 Crown). This, the chief place of 
 the moorland district of Cannock 
 Chase, is an ancient town that has 
 revived in conscience of the exten- 
 sive cool workings opened in its 
 neighbourhood of late years. It is 
 well paved, lighted, and supplied 
 with water, has good Public Rooms, 
 and a very* pbwsnnt -looking bowling 
 green, with an nvcntie of lime trees, 
 a somewhat unusual feature in tin* 
 district (Pop. 8500), The (%. of 
 which the well-known I>r. Saeh- 
 everell va.* once curate, has an E arly 
 Doc. chancrl ; the body and the 
 square euiljattlcd tower are late 
 Pcrp. 
 
 About j m. to the S.K. is Ilnmmtr 
 Hill, w hich was famous many years 
 ago f**r it** springs, to which all the 
 fashion of the county resorted. 
 
 The name Ouimck pronounced 
 Conk) is said to b* derived from 
 the Saxon word* 44 oiim.” powerful, 
 and ** aic,'* oak : ami although there 
 are now little or no remain* of the 
 f»r»“*t mve tb' viatn* **f Chase, history 
 record* that an exh'Usive f<*nwt and 
 a favourite hunting locality of the 
 then monarch* existed during the 
 Mem an » m. 'Hie Chase eov*rs an 
 extent of 3*1,000 acre*, very little of 
 which ha* as yet breti reclaimed, 
 tlswigh the formation of a great 
 Central Arsenal ti*erc has lo*n sug- 
 gested : bit. though unproductive 
 on the surface, it rmitiiina vast riebra 
 un i* nuwth in tb* sliapeof cral-hcd*. 
 
167 
 
 Route 29 '. — Rugeley. — The Ridwares. 
 
 These are principally worked by the 
 West Cannock Colliery Company, 
 whose establishments at Church- 
 bridge and Huntington are on a 
 very large scale. Buildings which 
 serve as both Church schools and 
 chapels have been erected in most of 
 these outlying districts on the Chase. 
 
 The rly. pursues its course in a 
 northerly direction into the very 
 heart of the Chase, to 10 m. Hednes - 
 ford (Stat.) ( Lin : Anglesey Hotel), 
 a place once only known from the 
 training ground for horses afforded 
 by the neighbouring hills. It is 
 now a busy market town of some 
 4000 Inhab., with a modern ch., 
 built by the Marquis of Anglesey, 
 whose seat of Hednesford Hall is 
 converted into the hotel ; the house 
 overlooks a fine sheet of water known 
 as Hednesford Pool. About equi- 
 distant from this station and that of 
 Armitage (Rte. 30) is Beaudesert, 
 the beautiful park of the Marquis 
 of Anglesey. Leaving Hednesford 
 the scenery becomes wooded and 
 picturesque as the line descends from 
 the uplands of the Chase towards 
 Rugeley. 
 
 15m.ihq/eZe?/(Stat.) {Inn: Shrews- 
 bury Arms), a prettily situated and 
 busy little town (Pop. 4800) notwith- 
 standing the unpleasant associations 
 with which its name is still associated 
 in the minds of some people as the 
 residence of Palmer, and the scene 
 of his wholesale poisonings. Rugeley 
 was a possession of the see of Lich- 
 field, but was granted to Sir William 
 Paget by Henry VIII. The ch. is 
 modern, but the chancel of the old 
 building is still in existence, and is 
 used as the school house. It contains 
 the tombstone of John Weston, an 
 ecclesiastic of the 16th centy. Ad- 
 joining the town is Hagley Hall 
 (Mrs. Brown), a fine old mansion, in 
 a park. The line passes E. of the 
 town, and across the river to the 
 Rugeley Stat. of the Trent Valley 
 branch (Rte. 30). 
 
 From Rugeley an interesting Ex- 
 cursion may be made to the pleasant 
 district of Needwood Forest , return- 
 ing through Abbot’s Bromley. 
 
 Proceed along the Armitage road, 
 and cross the Trent by the one- 
 arched iron bridge, 140 ft. wide, 
 near the Armitage Stat. (Rte. 30) 
 to the hamlet of Hansacre (3 m.)„ 
 Notice the old Manor-house, with 
 its moat. At a short distance N. are 
 the^3 villages called the Ridwares. 
 The nearest, Mavesyn Ridware , is 
 so called from the Norm, family of 
 Malvoisin, corrupted into Mavesyn. 
 Of the last member of this family 
 Erdeswick says, “ Well might he be 
 called Malvoisin — for (as the report 
 of the country is), going towards the 
 battle of Shrewsbury, he met with 
 his neighbour Sir William Handsacre 
 going also into the said battle, either 
 of them being well accompanied by 
 their servants and tenants ; and upon 
 some former malice, it might seem, or 
 else knowing the other to be backed 
 by the contrary party, they encoun- 
 tered each other, and fought as it 
 were a skirmish, or little battle, 
 when Mavesyn had the victory, and, 
 having slain his adversary, went on 
 to the battle, and was there slain 
 himself.” The Church , which' has 
 been restored, contains the monu- 
 ment of this warlike Sir Robert, 
 an armed figure, with sword and 
 dagger ; also monuments and a 
 stained glass window to the Chad- 
 wicks, who were lineally descended 
 from the Malvoisins. Pipe Ridware 
 lies to the N., and beyond it is 
 Hamstall Ridware, situated on the 
 little stream of the Blyth, which 
 joins the Trent at King’s Bromley. 
 In the village is an Elizabethan 
 manor-house, now occupied as a 
 farmhouse. The watch-tower is in 
 very good preservation, and is 
 ascended by a staircase, communi- 
 cating at the top with the rest of 
 the building. The ch. has a nave, 
 aisles, and clerestory, and contains 
 some carved oak stalls and a screen, 
 
168 
 
 Route 29 . — Walsall to Rugeley. 
 
 together with some good old painted 
 glass. In the ch.-yard is the shaft 
 of a cross. 1 m. to the N.W. of 
 Hamstall is BlUhbwry , the site of a 
 prior}” founded in the reign of 
 Stephen by Hugh Mavesyn, of 
 which the memory is preserved by 
 the name of the Priory Farm. 
 
 About 2J m. to the E. of Armi- 
 tage, at tho confluence of the Blyth 
 with the Trent, is Kings Bromley , 
 the manor of which was in possession 
 of the Crown for 2 centuries after 
 the Norm. Conquest, but was by 
 Henry II. granted to the Corbetts. 
 The Perp. ch. lias a good square 
 tower, and some handsome windows. 
 King's Bromley Manor is the seat of 
 Col. J. II. Lane, a descendant of the 
 Lanes of Bentley, who were so con- 
 spicuous for their devotion to Charles 
 II. (Rte. 26). A celebrity of King’s 
 Bromley is mentioned in Plot, one 
 Mary Cooper, an old woman who 
 saw 5 generations of her descendants 
 before she died, all of whom were 
 alive at the same time, so that she 
 could say, “Rise, daughter, go to 
 thy daughter, for thy daughter’s 
 daughter hath got a daughter.” 
 
 2 ra. N. is Yoxall , a village on 
 the border of Need wood Forest. 
 The Ch. t Norm. Dec. and Perp., 
 has been restored (the late Lord 
 Palmerston being a contributor), and 
 contains a very fine altar-tomb for 
 Humphrey Welles and Mary his 
 wife, of Hoarcross (d. 1565, 1584), 
 also a brass for Thomas and Joan 
 Welles (1509). Their moated 
 manor-house has been replaced by 
 a modem building, Hoarcross Hull 
 (Mrs. Mcynell-Ingram). Ijongcroft 
 
 Hall (Major W. Arden) has been in 
 the possession of the Arden family 
 for full 3 centuries. 
 
 The whole of the district between 
 Yoxall, Burton - on - Trent, and the 
 river Dove, is occupied more or less 
 by the Forest of Kredttood. 44 which 
 was chiefly enclosed about the be- 
 ginning of the present centy., leaving 
 
 a portion belonging to the Crown and 
 one lodge. It had formerly 4 wards 
 and 4 keepers, with a handsome 
 lodge to each, but is now in tho hands 
 of different private gentlemen. In 
 Queen Elizabeth’s time it was 24 
 miles in circumference, and in 1658 
 it contained 47,150 trees and 10,000 
 cords of hollies and underwood, 
 valued at 30,71 Oh It and Bagot’s 
 Park, formerly part of it, still con- 
 tain some of tho largest oaks and 
 hollies in England.” — Harwood. 
 Near the centre of the forest, a ch. 
 called Christ Church in Needwood, 
 was erected in 1820, and there is 
 another in the village of Kewborougli , 
 2 in. N. On the E. skirt of the 
 forest is a spot styled Callingwood , 
 being a corruption of Challenge wood 
 (“ Boscum calumniatum ”), referring 
 to the legend that Robert de Ferrers 
 at the battle of tho Standard, to 
 animate liis men promised a grant 
 of land in Needwood to the one 
 who showed the most valour. One 
 Ralph had the prize adjudged to 
 him. 
 
 By far the most picturesque por- 
 tion of Needwood is on the north, 
 where tho land declines into the 
 valley of the Dove, with abrupt and 
 beautifully wooded hills. The soil 
 is rich and good, and is thus de- 
 scribed, together with its opposite, 
 Cannock Chase, by Drayton : — 
 
 * But two of all tho rest 
 That Staffordshire calls hers, these both of 
 high account. 
 
 The eld’st of which Is Cank ; though Need- 
 wood here surmount 
 
 In excellence of soil, by being richly placed 
 Twixt Trent and batt'ning Dove.* 2 * 4 
 
 3 m. W. from Newborough is tho 
 decayed market town of Abbot's 
 Bromley (Inn : Bogot’s Anns), once 
 the property of the abbots of Burton, 
 whence tho name. Tho Ch ., which 
 has been restored, is a fine Perp. 
 structure, with early oak benches, 
 a good K. window of three lights, 
 and a number of monuments to tho 
 Bagot family, ono of them to tho 
 
169 
 
 j Route 3Q . — Tamworih to Newport. 
 
 memory of Ludolkin Bagot, his two 
 wives, and his 19 children. In the 
 tower are preserved some deers’ 
 heads, still occasionally carried in 
 procession at holiday times, not- 
 withstanding that the county his- 
 torian speaks of it as a matter of 
 the past. “ There was here a 
 custom, now discontinued, similar 
 also to one long observed at 
 Stafford and at Seighford, but it 
 was continued here till the civil 
 war, and Sir Simon Degge often 
 saw it. A person carried between 
 his legs the figure of a horse made 
 of thin wood, and in his hand a bow 
 and arrow, which, passing through a 
 hole in the bow and stopping on a 
 shoulder of it, makes a snapping 
 noise as he drew it to and fro, keep- 
 ing time with the music. With this 
 10 or 12 others danced, carrying on 
 their shoulders as many reindeers’ 
 heads, some of them painted white 
 and some red, with the arms of the 
 families of Paget, Bagot, and Welles, 
 to whom the chief property of the 
 town belonged, painted on the palms 
 of them with which they danced. 
 To this hobbyhorse dance there also 
 belonged a pot, which was kept by 
 turns by four or five of the chief of 
 the town, whom they called Reeves, 
 who provided cakes and ale to put 
 into this pot, and collected pence for 
 that purpose.” — Harwood. Another 
 old custom still practised here is the 
 tolling of the curfew from Michael- 
 mas to Shrove Tuesday. 
 
 li m. to the north of the town is 
 Bagot' s Park, a remnant of Need- 
 wood, detached from the rest in early 
 days, the old inheritance of the Bagot 
 family, who had a moated manor- 
 house here. The park is of very 
 considerable extent, and still con- 
 tains oaks of large girth. One, 
 known as the Squitch oak, is 61 ft. 
 high and 48 ft. in girth. Near the 
 park is an obelisk erected in 1811 
 to commemorate the migration of 
 the Bagot family to the neighbouring 
 house of Blithfield (Lord Bagot), 
 [Derby, Notts , Leic & Staff.'] 
 
 which is about halfway between 
 Abbot’s Bromley and Oolwich. The 
 interior has a fine stone chimney- 
 piece, on which is sculptured the 
 granting of Magna Charta by King 
 John. 
 
 If the tourist should not wish to 
 return to Rugeley or Colwich from 
 Abbot’s Bromley (the distance is 
 about 4 m. to either), he can make 
 his way through a pleasant country 
 to either Uttoxeter or Sudbury, both 
 stats, on the North Staffordshire 
 Line (Rte. 82). To Uttoxeter is 
 6 m., to Sudbury 7 m. Or he may 
 proceed to the Grindley Stat. (4 m. ) 
 on the Stafford and Uttoxeter Line 
 (Rte. 31). 
 
 ROUTE 30. 
 
 TAM WORTH TO NEWPORT, . BY 
 
 RUGELEY, COLWICH, AND STAF- 
 FORD. 
 
 L. AND N.-W. ELY. 34 J m. 
 
 The Trent Valley Rly., which 
 forms a direct connection between 
 Rugby and Stafford, was designed 
 by George Stephenson to abridge 
 the distance between London and the 
 north, the trains formerly having to 
 run through Birmingham. Now the 
 latter line is devoted to the local 
 traffic, while the Trent Valley ac- 
 commodates all the through and 
 express trains. It enters the county 
 of Stafford at Tam worth (Rte. 28;, 
 taking thence a north-westerly direc- 
 tion, and passing over the Stafford- 
 shire Moor, where, in the presence of 
 i 
 
170 
 
 Route 30 . — Tanucorth to Neirport. 
 
 many thousand spectators, the late 
 Sir Robert Peel cut the first 
 of the line in Nov. 1845. It soon 
 after crosses the Tame, having on rt. 
 Comberford Hill, and on 1 . the rising 
 ground and wood* of Hopwas, which 
 fringe the left bank of the river. 
 
 At tlie Imck of the woods is Pock - 
 ington /fall (R. T. K. Levctt, Esq.), 
 oik'»* tin* residence of Sir Win. Stam- 
 ford, a crown lawyer in the 16th 
 centy., fnmi whom it desoendid to 
 the linhingtons, a branch of the 
 Derbyshire fnmily of that name. 
 Further on. at 4 m. the rly. skirts 
 the meadows of Fisher wick Park, now 
 only fanning ground, but formerly 
 the site of two noble mansions. The 
 first, a Jacobean edifice, was built by 
 the tir.-t I/>rd Chichester, and is 
 figured in Plot; this was pulled down 
 in 1766, nnd replaced by a classic 
 pilo by l^incelot llrown, which, 
 however, was never finished, and 
 was itself demolished in 1810. On 
 the opposite side of the line is Whit- 
 tington Heath, where the Lichfield 
 races are held. The ch. has a lofty 
 spire of ancient elate, but the body 
 is modern. Whittington Hall (J. 
 Baggah y, Ksq.). The graceful spires 
 of Lichfield an* now seen; wo pass 
 under the S. 8tiflbrdshire fine, and 
 at 6} m. wo reach the stat., which, 
 however, is fully 2 m. from the 
 Cathcdr.il ( Bfe 87 >• 
 
 1 1 m. Armitage Stnt). Theoountry, 
 which has been gradually becoming 
 mom hr»k» n. is here exceedingly 
 varied and picturesque; indeed it is 
 difficult to find a mom charming 
 ride than from Lichfit-ld to Stafford. 
 On W. am the al*nipt and wooded 
 knolls that fringe the northern bor- 
 der of Oannoek Chase; on K. am the 
 high grounds of Need wood Forest, 
 whilst in the foreground the Trent 
 glides with placid stroun, on which 
 swans am to be seen. Armitngt 
 Churrh oomph's a romantic |*«ition 
 overlooking the river. It was re- 
 built in 1850, but tlill retains 
 
 its Norm, tower nnd doorway, sur- 
 rounded by a series of grotesque 
 fuces. The antiquity of Annitage is 
 proved by ancient deeds, in which it 
 is sj*>ken of ns the “Hermitage of 
 Handeshakere ;** and there is n tra- 
 dition that a hermit dwelt here, 
 possibly St. Chad. In the imme- 
 diate neighbourhood are some nico 
 seats, as Hairktyafd Pork (J. Spode, 
 Ksq.) and Armit ige Jxxigc T. Birch, 
 Esq.). In the former house, a mo- 
 dern Gothic edifice, is preserved 
 an old helmet that once hung in 
 the ch. nnd is believed to have be- 
 longed to a former owner of the 
 estate, Sir Simeon Rugeley, who was 
 a colonel in the Parliamentary army, 
 and was charged with the demolition 
 of Stafford Castle. 
 
 About 3 m. to the W. of Armitngo 
 is Bcoudesert , the property of tho 
 Marquis of Anglesey, but occupied 
 by Sir T. N. Abdy, Bart., situated in 
 a charmingly picturesque and varied 
 park. Tho house ithe E. front of 
 which is engraved in Plot) is of tho 
 dab? of Elizabeth and, ns was then 
 not unusual, is built in the form of 
 the letter LU ; it was honoured by 
 a visit from royalty in the shape of 
 the Prince Regent in 1815. Tho 
 interior contains a portrait by Hol- 
 bein of the first I xml Paget, who ob- 
 tained his peerage from Edward VI., 
 and of whom Fuller said that “ho 
 was not onlv fit to represent kings, 
 but to be a king himself.” But tho 
 go-tit sources of attraction are tho 
 woods and bills that constitute tho 
 broken ground of BeaudoNcrt Old 
 ( sped illy t:.. ( ’ ».ntle Hill, 
 which command* u very extensivo 
 view, and is surmounted by a largo 
 British camp. At Radmore, a short 
 distance 8.W., are some vestige* of a 
 Cistercian abbey, tho brethren of 
 which were removed to Btonclcigh 
 in Warwickshire, temp. Hen. IL, on 
 their complaint that tliey could no 
 longer endure the outrages of tho 
 neighbouring foresters. On the re- 
 
Route 30 . — Wolseley Hall- 
 
 turn to the stat. the archaeologist 
 may make a detour of about 3 m. to 
 two interesting churches, Far well 
 and Longdon. 
 
 At Harwell, or Farewell, was a 
 priory founded by Roger Bp. of Lich- 
 field, in 1140, for Regular Canons, but 
 afterwards suppressed in 1527 for the 
 benefit of the choir of the cathedral. 
 There are few remains of the an- 
 cient religious house, but the chancel 
 of the ch. contains some good early 
 windows and some oak stalls. Long- 
 don ch. contains the tomb of John 
 Stany well, a Benedictine monk, abbot 
 of Pershore and suffragan bishop 
 “ Poletensis,” who was buried here 
 in 1553, with the punning motto, 
 “ Educit aquam de petra ; ” also 
 some monuments to the ancient fa- 
 mily of Arblaster. The ch. is of 
 Norm, date, as evinced by the chan- 
 cel arch, and possesses an aisle called 
 the Haunch or Stonywell chapel. 
 
 Lyswys Ball (Charles Forster, Esq.) 
 belonged to the Arblasters, a Lei- 
 cestershire family, from the time of 
 Edward III. to the civil war. Haunch 
 Hall (S. L. Seckham, Esq.) was the 
 property of the Ormes, who suffered 
 greatly for their loyalty. 
 
 Following the valley of the Trent, 
 the line reaches, at 14 m., Bugeley 
 Junction Stat. (The town lies 1 m. 
 S.W., and has a stat. on the Can- 
 nock branch, Rte. 29.) Between 
 this and Colwich the line passes on 
 E. Bellamour Hall, and Colton Ch ., 
 which was rebuilt from designs by 
 Street. It contains some sedilia and 
 a curious leaden font. The present 
 Hall of Bellamour has superseded 
 an older one, built by Herbert Aston 
 in the 17th centy., and named by 
 him, because his friends helped him 
 to furnish it. Next we pass the 
 handsome seat of Bishton Hall (Miss 
 Sparrow), close to the bridge across 
 the Trent, and at 17 m. reach 
 Colwich Junction (Stat.). (Hence 
 the N. Staffordshire line runs off, on 
 N. to the Potteries, &c., Rte. 31.) 
 
 —Oakedge — Shugborough. 171 
 
 Colwich Ch ., which is Dec. and has 
 been well restored, has a fine tower, 
 and in the interior a tomb and effigy 
 of Sir William Wolseley, who was 
 drowned in his coach in a flood, 
 1728 ; also tombs of the Ansons, one 
 of them, Lord Anson, the circum- 
 navigator, and one by Westmacott to 
 Thomas, Viscount Anson (d. 1818). 
 There are a number of beautiful 
 seats in the neighbourhood of Col- 
 wich, both river and railway passing 
 through a succession of lovely parks 
 and woods, and there is probably not 
 a district in all the country more 
 thoroughly characteristic of English 
 beauty and comfort. To the S. of 
 the village is a romantic and broken 
 region, forming the northern escarp- 
 ment of Cannock Chase, a spot much 
 resorted to by picnic and pleasure 
 parties. Wolseley Hall (Sir C. Wol- 
 seley) was the seat of that family 
 prior to the Norm. Conquest, Edric 
 de Wholseley being described in 
 Domesday Book as holding large 
 possessions previous to the survey. 
 It has a deer-park, and possesses 
 the chartered right of a deer-leap from 
 Cannock Chase, the only instance of 
 the kind in England. 
 
 Adjoining Wolseley is Oahedge (J. 
 Adamthwayte, Esq.), where once 
 upon a time “lived Mrs. Whitby, 
 known by the name of the ‘ Widow 
 of the Wood/ who was married at 
 midnight in the ch. of Colwich to 
 Sir William Wolseley, which mar- 
 riage was set aside, she having pre- 
 viously married another gentleman.” 
 
 Very soon after leaving Colwich 
 Stat. the train passes through the 
 beautifully wooded park of Shug- 
 borough, the seat of the Earl of 
 Lichfield, spoken of by L eland as 
 “ Shokesborrow Haywood, because 
 it standeth by it/’ The old house, 
 which was the birthplace of Lord 
 Anson, was purchased by his great- 
 grandfather, Thomas Anson, in the 
 reign of Elizabeth. The present 
 mansion, whic h is of Italian character 
 
 i 2 
 
172 
 
 Route 30 . — Tamwortli to Newport. 
 
 is not seen from the rly., but is on ' 
 the rt. t situated at the angle where 
 the Sow runs into the Trent. In i 
 its course through the nark the rly. | 
 enters a long tunnel and emerges on 
 the bank of the Sow. 
 
 Across the river is Tixall , with 
 a small modem ch. Tixatl Park 
 (Jas. Tyrer, Esq.) is the property of 
 the Earl of Shrewsbury, having been 
 purchased by his father, Earl Talbot. 
 The park was contiguous to that of 
 Ingestre, and has now been united to 
 it (Rte. 31). The present house was 
 built in 1750, in the place of a noble 
 Elizabethan edifice, in which Mary 
 Queen of Scots was confined for a 
 short time, and of which only the 
 gateway, of Jacobean date, remains. 
 This is a curious mixture of styles, 
 embracing in its 3 stories the orders 
 of Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian ar- 
 chitecture. The stables are notice- 
 able as being in the form of a 
 crescent. The Astons were formerly 
 possessed of Shugborough, but re- 
 moved to Tixall in the time of 
 Henry VIII. The house was built 
 in 1580 by Sir Walter Aston ; his 
 grandson, of the same name, was the 
 jMitron of Drayton, the author of 
 * Poly-Olbion,’ who thus mentions 
 the place : 
 
 “To Trent by Tixall grac'd, the Astons’ 
 ancient seat. 
 
 Which oft the Muse hath found her safe 
 and sweet retreat.” 
 
 Tixall Heath , on which are two 
 tumuli, called King’s Low and 
 Queen's Low, was the scene of a 
 tragedy in Henry VII.’s time, when 
 Sir William Chetwynd, one of the 
 ushers to the king, was attacked 
 by Sir Humphrey Stanley (who was 
 jealous of his influence) and a body 
 of 20 retainers, and there and then 
 assassinated. 
 
 Drawing near to Stafford, wo see 
 on W. the little ch. of Baswich for- 
 merly Derkleswick), on the bank of 
 the Penk, near where that stream 
 falls into the Sow. In this parish is 
 Weeping Cross, once the place of 
 
 public execution, but now the site 
 of severul handsome residences, as 
 Weeping Cross (T. Salt, Esq., M.P.). 
 At 23 m. the line joins the loop line 
 from Birmingham (Rte. 26), and at 
 23 J m. we reach Stafford Junction 
 (Stat.) (Rte. 26). (Hotels: North- 
 Western; Swan). Lines E. to Ut- 
 toxeter, &c. (Ute. 32), N. to Crewe 
 (ltte. 26). 
 
 The remainder of the route is 
 performed by another branch of the 
 London and North-Western, known 
 as the Shropshire Union Rly. It 
 leaves Stafford in a direction due 
 W., passing N. of the wooded knoll 
 on which Stafford Castlo is placed, 
 and arrives at 
 
 27 J m. Haughton (Stat.). The 
 ch, has a fine alabaster tomb, with 
 figure of Nicholas Cranmer, in eu- 
 charistic vestments, holding a chalice 
 (d. 1520). He was rector, and built 
 the handsome Perp. tower. 3 m. N. 
 is Ranton , where an Augustinian 
 priory was founded by Robert Fitz- 
 Noel, temp. Hen. I. The site is 
 occupied bv the modern house of 
 Ranton Abbey (Earl of Lichfield), 
 but some portions of the old priorv 
 are left, consisting of a tower, with 
 a fine 5-light Perp. window, and 
 2 headless figures Mow it. The 
 upper windows are Dec. In the 
 garden are preserved several carved 
 capitals and bosses, from the ruins. 
 2 in. further N. is the pretty village 
 of Ellenhall , once the sent of the 
 Noels. The ch. is of early date, 
 and has “a pulpit-cloth which was 
 probably jmrt of a priest’s cope, being 
 of rich material and mediaival em- 
 broider}’.” 
 
 29 j m. Gnosall (Stat.). The Ch. 
 is a large and fine edifice, ranging 
 from Norm, to IVrp. in its architec- 
 ture, and with a good tower in which 
 hang 2 bel Is brought from Ranton 
 Abbey. The W. front, however, has 
 U<en miserably disfigured ; it ex- 
 hibits a door hardly tit for a burn, 
 and 2 external flights of steps that 
 
Boute 31.— Colwich to Stoke-on-Trent. 
 
 173 
 
 give access to the gallery. In the 
 Chancel is an altar-tomb, with a 
 figure in armour, probably of the 
 13th centy. 
 
 3 m. N.W. is Norbury , a rather 
 remote village, but worth a visit for 
 the sake of the Skrymsher monu- 
 ments in the ch. The Ch. is of Dec. 
 date, except the tower, which is 
 modem, and of red brick. One of 
 the effigies, lying under a rich 
 canopy, is a cross-legged figure ; there 
 are 3 figures of knights and 2 of 
 ladies, 14th cent. ; a brass for Halys 
 Boteler, and some 17th and 18th 
 cent, monuments, the latest bearing 
 date 1718. The Manor house of the 
 Skrymshers, engraved by Plot, was 
 a gabled and moated structure ; the 
 site is now occupied by a farm, but 
 the moat can be traced. High Offley 
 ch., 2 m. to the N., also contains 
 monuments to the Skrymshers, as 
 does that of F orton , nearer Newport. 
 Tradition says the family sprang 
 from a certain “ Hugh the Skir- 
 misher,” a mercenary brought into 
 the country by King John in his 
 wars with the barons. They had 
 great possessions in these parts, and 
 Plot tells an amusing story of the 
 gulls, or pewits, as they are called, 
 who were “ so wholly addicted to 
 this family,” that they would build 
 and breed nowhere else but on its 
 lands (Plot, ‘ Staffordshire/ p. 231). 
 The country around abounds in 
 pieces of water, the larger called 
 meres, and the smaller pools, and the 
 Pewit pool beside the road to Eccles- 
 hall is a well-known spot. 
 
 From Gnosall the line runs S.W. 
 through a very pleasant country. 
 At 33 m., 1 m. N., are the fine 
 grounds of Aqualate Hall (Sir T. 
 Fenton Boughey, Bart.). The old 
 house, engraved by Plot, was a ga- 
 bled structure, with a noble gate- 
 house, and the railing surmounted 
 by busts. Behind the house stretches 
 the largest sheet of water in the 
 county called Aqualate Mere; it is 
 more than a mile in length, and up- 
 
 wards of a third of a mile in breadth. 
 The Shropshire border is crossed, and 
 we arrive at (34^ m.) Newport (Stat.). 
 Inns: Shakespeare; Victoria. See 
 Handbook for Shropshire . 
 
 EOUTE 31. 
 
 COLWICH TO STOKE-ON-TRENT, BY 
 SANDON, STONE, AND TRENTHAWI 
 [CHARTLEY]. 
 
 NORTH STAFFORDSHIRE ELY. 
 
 18| m. 
 
 Quitting Colwich (Rte. 30), the 
 line, ascends the valley of the Trent, 
 having Shugborough Park W., and 
 on E. the village of Great Haywood, 
 where some remains of the old reli- 
 gious house are to be seen, worked 
 up in the modern Haywood . Abbey 
 (W. C. Woodroffe, Esq.) ; it reaches, 
 at 3 m. Hixon (Stat.), and at 4J m, 
 Weston (Stat.). On W. are the 
 saltworks of Shirleywich and the 
 parks of Tixall and Ingestre. The 
 latter, now the beautiful residence 
 of the Earl of Shrewsbury, was 
 originally the seat of the Chetwynd 
 family, from whom it passed by 
 marriage in the last centy. to Earl 
 Talbot (a cadet of the Shrewsbury 
 line), whose descendant, the late 
 Earl of Shrewsbury, established in 
 1858 his right to the premier earl- 
 dom. The most famous of the family 
 was Walter Chetwynd, an antiquary 
 in the 17th centy. His picture is 
 preserved in the hall. The fagade 
 of the house is one of the most 
 
174 
 
 Route 31 . — Colwich to Stole-on-Trent. 
 
 graceful examples of the Jacobrean 
 style, with domed turrets and very- 
 ornamental bays. The garden front 
 was built by Nash for the late Earl 
 Talbot, in good imitation of the old 
 part. A handsome bridge crosses 
 the Trent, affording access from 
 Ingestre to Weston. Adjoining the 
 Hall is Ingestre Church, a small but 
 handsome building in the Italian 
 style, with balustraded square tower 
 and an altar-screen of carved oak. 
 The old ch. having suffered much 
 in the civil war, the present edifice 
 was built in 1676 by that doughty 
 Churchman and royalist, Walter 
 Chetwynd. A curious narrative of 
 its consecration is given in Plot. 
 Care was taken, on the day, to have 
 the celebration of every rite of the 
 Church, including a baptism, a 
 marriage, and a burial. The ch. 
 contains a handsome monument to 
 Lady Victoria Talbot, sister of the 
 earl (d. 1856). 
 
 4.^ m. Weston ( Stat .). The ch., 
 which has been restored, is E. E., 
 with good tower and spire, and several 
 painted windows. 
 
 [At Weston the N. Stafford line 
 is crossed by the Stafford and Ut- 
 toxeter lily., and which may be here 
 described. Stafford (Rte. 26) is 6 m. 
 S. W. (4 m. only by road). There 
 is one stat., at Salt, 2 m. from Weston, 
 and the line crosses Hopton Heath, 
 the scene of a battle, March 19, 1643, 
 when the Parliamentarians were 
 defeated, but the Earl of North- 
 ampton, the Royalist commander, 
 was killed. The registers of both 
 Sandon and Weston churches con- 
 tain entries of burials of soldiers who 
 were killed at Hopton. 
 
 Proceeding from the Ingestre Stat. 
 of the Stafford line, E. towards 
 Uttoxeter, the first stat. is Stmte, 
 1J ra. The Ch. is of various dates, 
 with square embattled tower, and 
 has a good Norm, chancel-arch. It 
 contains a canopied tomb for Walter 
 Devereux, first Viscount Hereford (d. 
 1558) and his 2 wives ; he was tho 
 
 grandfather of Elizabeth’s favourite, 
 Essex; and a brass to Thomas New- 
 port, Essex’s steward of the house- 
 hold. There is also a tomb for one 
 of the Ferrers of Chartley. 
 
 At a short distance N., and well 
 seen from the line, standing out bold- 
 ly from a hill-side, is Chartley Castle , 
 now a ruin. Chartley Hall (Earl 
 Ferrers) is an old timber building, 
 still surrounded by a moat, but 
 otherwise differing considerably from 
 its representation in Plot. Elizabeth 
 visited it in 1575, on her way to 
 Stafford, and Mary Queen of Scots 
 was confined in it for a considerable 
 time. Her room is still in existence, 
 and escaped both the conflagrations 
 which at two various times destroyed 
 the rest of the building. 
 
 On a mound a little distance from 
 the hall are the ruins of Chartley 
 Castle , consisting of a stretch of wall 
 and 2 round towers, all clad with 
 ivy, and almost hidden by aged yews. 
 It was built in 1220 by Ranulph 
 Blundeville, Earl of Chester, on his 
 return from the Holy Land, The 
 park skirts the road to Uttoxeter, 
 and comprises upwards of 1000 acres 
 of heathery, uncultivated land, well 
 stocked with red and fallow deer. 
 There is also a breed of wild cattle, 
 similar to those at Chillingham in 
 Northumberland. “ They are cream- 
 coloured rather than pure white, and 
 have black muzzles and ears, with 
 the tips of their horns black also. 
 They are very shy, so that it is not 
 easy to approach them, but they are 
 not dangerous unless wantonly dis- 
 turbed.” — (Gamer.) The lovers of 
 old houses will find a good specimen 
 a little beyond Chartley Castle, gable 
 ended, with broad lattice windows 
 and central porch. 
 
 4} m. Grindley (Stat.) is a hamlet 
 of Stowe, on the little river Blythe, 
 in the midst of a rich grazing district 
 At 7 m. the lino falls into the Chur- 
 | net Valley Rly., and at 9$ m. we 
 oh Uttoxeter ( Rte. 321} 
 
 I Returning to the main line, and 
 
ji Route 31 . — Sandon ndll. 
 
 175 
 
 proceeding towards Sandon, we have, 
 at 6 m., at about 1 m. on E., the Ch. 
 of Gayton , well restored in 1870. It 
 is of various styles, Trans.-Norm. to 
 Dec., has a very early font, 'ancient 
 encaustic tiles with the arms of the 
 Ferrers, and a recumbent figure of 
 one of that family, which, when the 
 building was “ churchwardenized ” 
 a century ago, was banished to the 
 ch.-yard, the S. aisle where it stood 
 being then pulled down; it is now 
 placed in the chancel. 
 
 6J m. Sandon (Stat.) (Inn, Dog 
 and Doublet). From early times 
 Sandon has been a place of some 
 importance. Originally one of the 
 5 forests of Staffordshire, it was in 
 possession of William de Malbank 
 at the time of the Conquest, from 
 whom it descended to the Vernons, 
 and then by marriage to the family 
 of Stafford. But in 1339 Margaret 
 Stafford married Thomas Erdeswicke, 
 ancestor of Samson Erdeswicke, the 
 Staffordshire antiquary (d. 1603), 
 after whose time the estate frequently 
 changed hands, and ultimately by 
 purchase became the property of the 
 noble family of Ryder. 
 
 Sandon Hall (Earl of Harrowby), 
 is a very handsome Tudor building, 
 from designs by Burn, and has 
 replaced the older Hall, which 
 was burnt down in 1848 ; this 
 was a fine Elizabethan mansion of 
 timber, with a stone domed gate- 
 house, and is engraved by Plot. In 
 the park is the site of the original 
 building (now used as a poultry- 
 yard), surrounded by a moat, and 
 approached by an avenue of trees. 
 But the glory of Sandon is in the 
 grounds, which, both by nature and 
 art, are of the most charming descrip- 
 tion, and the beauties of which the 
 public is liberally admitted to share. 
 The principal objects of interest are 
 the orchard and aquatic houses, and 
 the conservatory, which all contain a 
 fine collection of exotics ; the Pitt 
 Monument, after Trajan’s Pillar (75 ft. 
 
 high), and erected to the memory of 
 that statesman by Dudley Lord 
 Harrowby ; Perceval's Seat, a Gothic 
 temple, in memory of Spencer Perce- 
 val, who was assassinated in 1812 in 
 the lobby of the House of Commons ; 
 and the Reservoir, which is a copy 
 of the tomb of Helen, daughter of 
 Lysias. The woodland walks, and 
 views from the summit of the park, 
 are lovely in the extreme, embracing 
 the Wrekin, the Clent Hills, Tittensor 
 Heath, Chartley, Lichfield, Cannock 
 Chase, Beaudesert, with a foreground 
 of the woods of Shugborough, Ingestre, 
 Tixall and Wolseley — in fact, a most 
 characteristic and pleasing English 
 landscape. 
 
 The Church , which stands on a 
 hill within the park, consists of 
 a nave with S. aisle, chancel, a N. 
 chapel, and a W. tower ; the aisle is 
 separated from the nave by E. E. 
 pillars. It contains a portion of the 
 old roodscreen, and a very curious 
 monument erected by Samson Erdes- 
 wicke, the antiquary, and a portion of 
 which is said to have been actually 
 made by himself. It is of great height, 
 and of a Corinthian style of archi- 
 tecture, built of freestone, painted to 
 resemble marble. The upper portion 
 is resplendent with blue and gold. 
 Recumbent on the tomb is Erdes- 
 wicke himself, in full costume, in 
 which the visitor should notice parti- 
 cularly the painting in imitation of 
 needlework at the edges of the 
 sleeves. The motto on the ledge of 
 the tomb is that of the Vernons, his 
 ancestors, “ Ver non semper viret.” 
 Above are two arches, each contain- 
 ing a kneeling effigy; these repre- 
 sent his wives, Elizabeth Dilkeswell 
 and Maria Neale ; the inscription is 
 surrounded by 38 shields of arms. 
 In the chancel are 4 other altar- 
 tombs to members of the same family, 
 male and female, the earliest bearing 
 the date of 1473. In the chancel 
 window is some good ancient stained 
 glass, with shields of the families of 
 Ferrers and Malbank ; the latter 
 
176 
 
 Route 31 . — Colwich to Stoke-on-Trent. 
 
 were probably the founders of the ch. 
 There are handsome monuments to 
 the first Earl of Harrowby (d. 1847) 
 and his countess (d. 1838), and the 
 W. window contains the Crucifixion, 
 by Waites. The chapel called the 
 old chancel has been restored by the 
 Earl of Harrowby. 
 
 1 1 J m. Stone Junot. Stat. Stone 
 (I/m: Crown) is a well-built busy 
 town (Pop. 10,000), in the angle 
 formed by two branches of the N. 
 Staffordshire Rly. The chief occu- 
 pation is shoemaking, but malting 
 and brewing are also largely carried 
 on. A nunnery was founded here 
 in the 7th centy. by Wulfhere, of 
 Mercia, of which the ch. existed 
 until 1749, when it fell down, and 
 the present Ch. was erected. Only 
 a few’ fragments of w’all remain, above 
 ground, of the monastic buildings. 
 The Ch. is dedicated to St. Michael, 
 and has a picture of Michael binding 
 Satan, by Beechey , presented by 
 Earl St Vincent ; also a bust of the 
 earl by Chan trey, though he is buried 
 in the ch.-yard. In the ch.-yard, is 
 also the family vault of the Granville 
 family, and a fine altar-tomb, with 
 the effigies, of Sir Thomas Crompton 
 and his wife, saved from the old ch. 
 On Stonefield, a suburb to the 
 N.W., the Duke of Cumberland drew 
 up his army in 1745, while waiting 
 an engagement with the Pretender’s 
 forces. The neighbourhood of Stone 
 is varied and pretty, particularly to 
 the N., at Darlaston, which is shel- 
 tered by a range of hills and the 
 w’oods of Darlaston Hall (Jervis 
 St. Vincent, Esq.). At Chilton, 1 m. 
 E. of Stone, is a modern Abbey, in 
 the chapel of which are some fine 
 painted windows by Hardman. 
 Meaford II all (Lieut-Gen. Forester). 
 Meaford Old Hall, the birthplace of 
 Earl St. Vincent, close to the line 
 on 1., is now a farmhouse. On 
 the hill above is Bury Bank , an 
 oval British camp, surrounded by a 
 loase, which is traditionally supposed 
 
 to have been the site of the ancient 
 Mercian capital. Excavations have 
 been made, but no interments 
 were found — in fact, nothing but 
 some stdnes and charcoal. A similar 
 mound is to be seen at Saxon Low, 
 on Tittensor Heath, a little further 
 on. 
 
 14J m. Barlaston (Stat.). The Ch. 
 has a stone tower, of early date, but 
 the body is of brick, of the Georgian 
 era. Barlaston Hall (W. E. Brown- 
 field, Esq.) is finely placed, and com- 
 mands an excellent view of Trent- 
 ham, and Tittensor Hills and Obelisk. 
 
 16 m. Trentham (Stat.). The 
 magnificent scat of Trentham Hall 
 (Duke of Sutherland) is about 1 m. 
 W. There is an inn ( New Trentham 
 Hotel) near the stat., the one oppo- 
 site the park gates being now closed. 
 Trentham, though so modern-looking, 
 from the lavish display of art and 
 luxury, is in reality a very old place, 
 a nunnery having existed here in 
 Alfred’s time, which rose to some im- 
 portance in the reign of Henry I., 
 when Ranulf Earl of Chester enlarged 
 it, and made it a priory for Augus- 
 tinian Canons. The buildings, after 
 the Dissolution, were occupied by 
 the family of Leveson, and doubtless 
 formed the nucleus of the old Hall, 
 which was an Elizabethan mansion, 
 erected by Sir Richard Leveson. An 
 engraving of it is given in Plot, 
 representing the garden -w’all and 
 balustrades, which formed the open- 
 work inscription : — 
 
 M Carolo Rrittannlffi rege, Ricardos Leveson 
 
 Eques Balnei axles bosce hlc fieri volult." 
 
 But about the commencement of the 
 last century it w as taken down, and a 
 portion of the present building sub- 
 stituted ; and at different times it 
 has been enlarged and beautified so 
 as to make it what it now is, one of the 
 most superb mansions in England. 
 Many of the most important altera- 
 tions wi re made by the late Duke, 
 in whoso time the whole of the front 
 
Route 31 .— Trentham Kali . 
 
 177 
 
 was reconstructed, and the belvedere 
 tower added under the inspection of 
 Sir Charles Barry. As it now stands, 
 Trentham has a fine Italian frontage, 
 from the centre of which rises a 
 campanile tower 100 ft. high, which 
 relieves what would otherwise have a 
 somewhat formal appearance ; while 
 from the centre project the dining- 
 room on the E., and the conserva- 
 tory on the W., connected by a gay 
 terrace-garden. The only objection- 
 able thing about the Hall is its 
 situation, which is low. The park 
 is liberally thrown open to the 
 public, by whom (and especially those 
 of the neighbouring Pottery towns) 
 the boon is greatly appreciated. The 
 gardens (for which a special order 
 is required) are of great extent, 
 and have the rare advantage of a 
 fine sheet of water, which is fed by 
 a source irrespective of the Trent, 
 which is here polluted by the drain- 
 age of the neighbouring Pottery 
 towns. From its banks the ground 
 rises on all sides, fringed with beau- 
 tiful shrubs and noble timber, until 
 the setting of the picture is completed 
 by the Tittensor and Barlaston hills. 
 The principal features of the gardens 
 are the Terrace garden, the Parterre, 
 the Italian gardens, the Trellis 
 Walk, the Nursery, and the Kainbow 
 Walk. Indeed, look which way one 
 will, it is obvious that landscape 
 gardening has here been carried to 
 the highest pitch, and every advan- 
 tage that wood and water can give 
 has been used as accessory to the 
 scene. The rhododendron flourishes 
 in the park with immense vigour, 
 but it is a curious fact that neither 
 the laurustinus, Irish arbutus, nor 
 common laurel, will grow at Trent- 
 ham. 
 
 The Church adjoins the N. side of 
 the Hall, and serves instead of a 
 private chapel. It is an E. E. edi- 
 fice, and was completely restored in 
 1844 by the 2nd Duke of Sutherland, 
 when care was taken not to displace 
 the ancient Norm, piers, which were 
 
 supposed to have been built by 
 Eanulf, Earl of Chester. The nave 
 and aisles are divided from the chan- 
 cel by a beautifully carved Jacobean 
 oak screen, containing goats’ heads 
 and the arms of the Levesons (three 
 laurel -leaves). There are several 
 monuments and brasses to members 
 of the same family, and a beautiful 
 monument to Harriet, Duchess of 
 Sutherland, with an inscription by 
 Mr. Gladstone. The burial-ground 
 is at some distance on the high road, 
 and contains a stately mausoleum 
 erected in 1807 by the Marquis of 
 Stafford, who in 1833 was created 
 Duke of Sutherland. 
 
 The tourist should not omit to 
 extend his excursion to Tittensor 
 Heath, which at its S. end contains 
 some interesting “lows,” such as 
 Saxon Low and Bury Bank (ante). 
 Even if antiquarian relics have no 
 charm for him, he can at all events 
 enjoy the magnificent view from 
 the Monument Hill, on which is a 
 colossal statue of the late duke. It 
 embraces a large extent of country, 
 from the Shropshire Wrekin to the 
 North Staffordshire hills, more or less 
 dotted with thriving Pottery towns, 
 such as Longton, Stoke, Shelton, 
 Hanley, and Burslem (Bte. 32), 
 backed in the distance by Mow Cop 
 and the hills near Macclesfield. ' 
 
 The traveller, leaving Trentham 
 Stat., soon bids adieu to green fields 
 and hedges as he nears the smoky 
 Pottery district, 
 
 17 m. on E. are Blurton and 
 Dresden , both busy places, and the 
 latter remarkable for its brick Ch., 
 designed by Scott , which has a bell- 
 turret of Minton’s ornamental tiles. 
 
 18J m. Stoke-on-Trent (Stat.). 
 Bte. 32, 
 
 i 3 
 
178 
 
 Route 32 . — Crewe to Burton-on-Trent. 
 
 ROUTE 32. 
 
 CREWE TO BURTON-ON-TRENT, BY 
 
 STOKE-ON-TRENT, UTTOXETER, 
 
 AND TUTBURY [THE POTTERIES]. 
 
 N. STAFFORDSHIRE RLY. 45 m. 
 
 For the country from Crewe to 
 Kidsgrove (otherwise Harecastle 
 Junction) see Handbook for Che- 
 shire . 
 
 Sh m. Kidsgrove (Stat.), where the 
 line from Crewe,. Liverpool, &c., on 
 W. unites with that on E. from 
 Manchester and Yorkshire. Just 
 before reaching the stat. the line 
 passes on E. Linley Wood (Mrs. 
 Marsh Caldwell). At a short dis- 
 tance W. is the colliery village of 
 Talke , commonly known as Talke-o’- 
 th’-Hill, as it stands on very high 
 ground, from which, it is asserted, 
 that even Snowdon is sometimes to 
 be seen. The place has gained a 
 mournful celebrity from a colliery 
 explosion in the year 1866, by 
 which nearly 100 lives were lost. 
 The village of Kidsgrove is a place 
 of modem growth, mainly depend- 
 ant on the gn at colliery and iron- 
 works of Clough Hall. Clough HaU 
 (Mrs. Kinnersley). 
 
 The traveller, if he has perforce 
 to wait for a train at Harecastle, 
 can pleasantly pass the time by in- 
 specting the canal -works at the 
 tunnel, which in its day was con- 
 sidered the chef-d* oeuvre of Brindley, 
 the great Staffordshire engineer. 
 The Grand Trunk Canal , which con- 
 nects the Trent and the Mersey, and 
 in fact is the great waterway for all 
 the English midland counties, is 
 unquestionably one of the most im- 
 portant works of the kind ever 
 executed, and it had an astonishing 
 
 effect in civilizing the rough manners 
 of the Pottery folks, and in open- 
 ing up intercourse with the rest 
 of the world. “ The Harecastle tun- 
 nel, which is 2880 yards long, was 
 constructed only 9 ft. wide and 
 12 ft. high. The most extensive 
 ridge of country to be penetrated was 
 at Harecastle, involving by far the 
 most difficult work in the whole 
 undertaking. This ridge is but a 
 continuation of the high ground form- . 
 ing the backbone of England. The 
 flat county of Chester, which looks 
 almost as level as a bowling-green 
 when viewed from the high ground 
 near New Chapel, seems to form a 
 deep bay in the land, its innermost 
 point being immediately under the 
 village of Harecastle. That Brind- 
 ley was correct in determining to 
 form his tunnel at this point has 
 since been confirmed by the survey 
 of Telford, who there constructed 
 his parallel tunnel for the same 
 canal, and still more recently by the 
 engineers of the North Staffordshire 
 lily., who have also formed their 
 railway tunnel nearly parallel with 
 the line of both canals.” — Smiles. 
 So great did the traffic become on 
 the canal that there wad one per- 
 petual block at this tunnel, which 
 from its low and narrow size could 
 only be traversed by the laborious 
 process of “ legging,” viz. by the 
 propulsion of the barge by means 
 of the boatmen’s legs against the 
 roof of the tunnel; and as bargees 
 were then, as now, not of the most 
 patient or refined habits, terrible 
 rows took place. It was determined 
 therefore to make another tunnel, 
 which Telford did, of a size suffi- 
 ciently large to enable horses to work 
 the traffic. The scene at the mouth 
 of the tunnel, with Kidsgrove ch. at 
 the back, is exceedingly wild and 
 picturesque ; in fact, the whole of 
 this part of the district is old-world 
 and quaint, and must have been 
 charming before the establishment 
 of ironworks and collieries. 
 
Route 32 . — Burslem. — Etruria. 
 
 179 
 
 About 2 m. E. of Harecastle is 
 New Chapel, where Brindley, who 
 did so much for this county, lies 
 buried ; and where, according to tra- 
 dition, lived the Harmonious Black- 
 smith, whose quick and regular 
 strokes on the anvil attracted the 
 attention of Handel, then staying 
 at Turnhurst, a neighbouring man- 
 sion afterwards occupied by Brindley, 
 and where he died, Sept. 27, 1772. 
 
 The rly. passes through several 
 tunnels and deep cuttings before it 
 enters the Pottery district, at 
 
 10£ m. Bunstall (Stat.). Tunstall 
 ( Inn : Sneyd Arms) is a busy mar- 
 ket-town, of modern growth (Pop. 
 14,000), and the most northerly of 
 the series that forms the parlia- 
 mentary borough of Stoke-upon- 
 Trent. The inhabitants are almost 
 entirely occupied in the manufacture 
 of earthenware and in the iron trade, 
 the Goldendale ironworks employ- 
 ing a large number of hands. The 
 churches are modern, and have 
 arisen with the necessities of the 
 town, which is, on the whole, well 
 built, and contains a fair amount of 
 public buildings. 
 
 12 J m. Burslem (Stat.). This 
 town ( Inns : Blue Ball ; Leopard) 
 has increased very rapidly within the 
 last few years. But it must not be 
 thought that Burslem is a modern 
 town, for it was known in the 
 r Domesday Book ’ as Bui wardsl erne ; 
 and in subsequent years was the 
 earliest place in the district to give 
 signs of its pre-eminence in its pre- 
 sent trade. In the time of the Stuarts 
 it was called the Butter Pottery, 
 owing to the fact that there was a 
 small establishment for the manu- 
 facture of butter-pots. 
 
 Plot writes in 1686 : “ The 
 
 greatest pottery they have in this 
 county is carried on at Burslem, near 
 Newcastle-under-Lyme, where for 
 making several sorts of pots they 
 have as many different sorts of clay, 
 which they dig round about the town, 
 
 all within half a mile’s distance, the 
 best being found near the coal, and are 
 distinguished by their colours and 
 uses.” At the end of the 17th centy. 
 the trade of Burslem included the 
 manufacture of dishes, jugs, and 
 other articles, all coloured, the white 
 clay not being introduced till later on, 
 when it was found in Cornwall and 
 brought to Staffordshire. In 1720 
 Burslem contained 20 pottery-ovens, 
 and in 1750 Josiah Wedgwood, a 
 native of the place (b. 1730 ; d. 1795), 
 began his first pottery in a small 
 house called Ivy Cottage ,* and though 
 he afterwards removed his works to 
 Etruria ( post ), the town has con- 
 tinued to prosper. At present it is 
 a flourishing place, containing about 
 26,000 Inhab., all of whom are de- 
 pendent, more or less, on some 40 
 earthenware and pottery establish- 
 ments, dotted about the town and 
 the suburbs of Cobridge and Long- 
 port. The mounds of broken pot- 
 tery give to these a squalid appear- 
 ance, but Burslem is well built and 
 well arranged. It contains a hand- 
 some Town-hall, in Italian architec- 
 ture, together with the “ Wedgwood 
 Memorial,” which has taken the 
 form of a School of Art and free 
 library, in Italian Gothic, by Edgar, 
 a pupil of Scott, designed so as to 
 present an example of constructive 
 ceramic architecture, of which the 
 first stone was laid by Mr. Gladstone 
 in 1863. Burslem is one of the 
 towns in the kingdom which has 
 voluntarily assessed itself to a library- 
 rate. A tramroad connects the town 
 with that of Hanley, on which a con- 
 tinual and remunerative passenger- 
 traffic is kept up by horse-cars, but 
 a loop-line of rly. to Kidsgrove is in 
 progress. A short distance E. of 
 Burslem are some slight remains of 
 the Cistercian Abbey of Hulton, 
 founded in 1223 by Henry de 
 Audley. 
 
 13f m. Etruria (Stat.). This pot- 
 tery village, founded by Wedgwood, 
 
180 
 
 Route 32 . — Creice to Burton-on-Trent. 
 
 is a part of the municipal borough 
 of Hanley (Pop. 3000). No one in 
 the district wad so inventive as he, 
 of new mixtures and wares. To him 
 the trade is indebted for terracotta 
 resembling granite or porphyry ; ba- 
 se Itos, or Mack porcelain biscuit; 
 white porcelain biscuit ; jasper, which 
 is like tlu* last, but possesses the 
 pmjierty of receiving colour through 
 its substance. Wedgwood’s greatest 
 discovery, however, was his “ Queen’s 
 ware,” composed of the whitest clays 
 mixed with a due proportion of flint, 
 and celebrated for its extreme purity 
 and durability. For this he obtained 
 the appellation of the 44 Queen’s 
 Potter.*’ Finding the works at Burs- 
 h in too limited for his business, he 
 purchased the Ridge-house estate, 
 on the bank of the Grand Trunk 
 Canal, which he had greatly con- 
 tributed to form, and there he, in 
 17G9, began the establishment of a 
 large work and village, which he 
 called Etruria, after the Etruscan 
 town of that name. He also built 
 Etruria Hall , a fine large brick 
 mansion to the E. of tlie rly., now 
 the residence of W. S. Ihden, Esq. 
 The house still contains the cellars 
 in which Wedgwood mixed his mate- 
 rials in solitude, so as to pre&erve 
 his valuable trade secrets. The pot- 
 tery establishment of Etruria is still 
 in the hands of the Wedgwood family, 
 but, although beautiful productions 
 are still turned out from it, the 
 manufactory has not, in these days 
 of competition, the same prestige as 
 formerly. 
 
 Adjoining Etruria is ShelVm, which 
 is likewise a r/uartier of Hanley, but 
 is not so entirely a potter}’ town, 
 being to a considerable extent de- 
 pendent on the enormous bor-iron- 
 works of Lord Granville, the smoke 
 from which surrounds Etruria Hall 
 in volumes. At Old Hlielton Hall, 
 almost destroved by fire in 1853, 
 was him Elijah Fenton, the Stafford- 
 shire poet, 1683, who had a share in 
 the translation of Pope’s Homer. 
 
 A branch line of 1$ m. runs from 
 Etruria, past Etruria Hall and the 
 Shelton oar-iron works, to Hanley , 
 which is (including Shelton) the 
 largest and most jHjpulous pottery 
 town (Pop. 45,000). It is finely 
 placed on a hill which commands an 
 extensive tract of country; but the 
 picturesque is sadly interfered with 
 by the smoke from ironworks, col- 
 lieries, and potteries. The borough 
 contains six churches, of which that 
 at Shelton is remarkable for its fine 
 tower, a Town hall, and several 
 covered markets; but beyond these 
 it presents little or nothing of interest 
 save the earthenware factories, of 
 which there are alxrnt 20, the chief 
 concern among them being that of 
 Dimmock and Co. 
 
 1 i m. W. of Etruria, and occupy- 
 ing a magnificent position on the 
 hill-side, is Wohtanton Ch., one of the 
 oldest in the county, and formerly 
 possessed by the Earls of Lancaster, 
 from whom it descended to John of 
 Gaunt. Having fallen into decay, 
 it was very carefully restored in 
 1862. As it now stands it consists 
 of nave, aisles, and chancel, with 
 W. tower and massive steeple, from 
 which rises a lofty tapering spire. 
 The base of the spire has pinnacles 
 at 3 of the angles, and a stair turret 
 is carried up to serve as a 4th. The 
 interior contains some lx?autiful piers 
 and arches of the 13th centy., and 
 in the chancel are sedilia and a 
 piscina. There are also some Eliza- 
 oethan and other monuments to the 
 family of Sneyd, who have boen pro- 
 prietors in this parish for many gene- 
 rations. There is a very fine view 
 from the ch.-yard, extending all over 
 the Pottery district nnd far into 
 ( 'hohirv. The paridi of Wnhtanftoa 
 was formerly very extensive, and no 
 less than 8 new ecclesiastical dis- 
 tricts have been formed from it of 
 late years. 
 
 After crossing the Stoke and Mar- 
 ket l>r.»yt*»n Branch (lite. 36), we 
 soon arrive at 
 
Route 32 . — Stoke-on-Trent . 
 
 181 
 
 15 m. Stoke-on-Trent Junction 
 Stat. ( Hotel : North Staffordshire, 
 first class.) This occupies one side 
 of Winton Square, in the centre of 
 which is a fine bronze statue of 
 Wedgwood, by Davis, erected by pub- 
 lic subscription in 1863. Opposite 
 are the offices and stat. of the North 
 Staffordshire Rly., which, like the 
 hotel, are of red brick, in the Eliza- 
 bethan style, and with encaustic 
 tiles freely used for ornament. 
 
 Stoke lies almost entirely to the 
 south of the rly., and consists more 
 of a long straggling series of town- 
 lets than of one distinct and com- 
 pact town (Pop. 14,000). There are, 
 however, several good streets, and 
 some handsome public buildings, as 
 the Town-hall, and the School of 
 Science and Art, which is a Memo- 
 rial to the late Mr. Minton. St. 
 Peter’s Ch. is a very good specimen 
 of modern E. E. ; it was rebuilt in 
 1830, and has a handsome pinnacled 
 tower. The chancel is larger than 
 was then usual, and has been well 
 arranged. In it is a mural monu- 
 ment to Wedgwood, with bronze 
 bust by Flaxman , which served as a 
 model for the statue in the square. 
 Opposite are the monuments of the 
 elder and younger Spodes (d. 1827 
 and 1829), and in the body of the 
 church a brass to T. Minton (d. 
 1836). The slabs of earthenware, 
 arranged diamond fashion round the 
 church, with the name of the de- 
 ceased, are particularly neat. In 
 the ch.-yard is an epitaph to the 
 father of Elijah Fenton, the poet. 
 The ch.-yard occupies one side of 
 a square ; on the other is the Town 
 Hall, which has a market beneath, 
 and the library and museum of the 
 Athenaeum on the upper floor. 
 
 Stoke is generally considered the 
 show-place of the Pottery district, 
 mainly owing to the beautiful col- 
 lections of ceramic art formed by 
 the Copelands and the Mintons, who 
 are celebrated throughout the world 
 for their exquisite productions. The 
 
 factory of the latter was established 
 in 1789 by Thomas Minton, of 
 Shrewsbury, and is of great celebrity 
 for its encaustic tiles, which have 
 become almost an essential feature 
 in every restoration, whether of 
 church, school, or mansion. 
 
 A very beautiful Gothic Ch. was 
 erected at Hartshill, on a command- 
 ing site 1 m. N. of Stoke, by Mr. 
 Minton, 1843. The same archi- 
 tect a few years since re-erected 
 the chancel for Mr. Campbell (the 
 present head of the Minton estab- 
 lishment), of an apsidal form with 
 a stone groined roof. The ch. in 
 its present shape well deserves no- 
 tice. N ot far from it is the new range 
 of buildings for the North Stafford- 
 shire Infirmary, which has been 
 transferred here from Shelton. A 
 picturesque pile of Gothic build- 
 ings is prominent from the rly. on 
 the woody hill joining Stoke to 
 Hartshill. This is a R. C. church 
 and convent. 
 
 16^ m. Fenton (Stat.) is merely 
 an outskirt of Stoke. 
 
 17^ m. Longton (Stat.), the last of 
 the Pottery towns (Pop. 20,000). It 
 has 3 churches, and a handsome 
 Town-hall, the lower part serving 
 as a covered market, and one of the 
 wings accommodating the Athe- 
 naeum. The business of the place 
 is principally earthenware, but brew- 
 ing and brickmaking are also largely 
 carried on. 
 
 The traveller will notice that the 
 district known as the Potteries is 
 curiously concentrated and limited, 
 embracing an area of only about 
 10 m. in length by 1^ in width. 
 But every available yard in this 
 ground is densely populated, and 
 occupied by the staple trade, which 
 includes not only earthenware-fac- 
 tories proper, but also colour-mills 
 and flint-mills, -together with col- 
 lieries and ironworks as accessories. 
 It is estimated that there are alto- 
 gether 260 establishments, of which 
 
182 
 
 Route 32 . — Cretce to Burton-on-Trent. 
 
 134 are devoted to earthenware, 60 
 to china, 26 to Parian, and 40 mis- 
 cellaneous. The whole manufacture 
 exhibits a singular instance of the 
 concentration of trade ; for, with the 
 exception of coal, and the coarse 
 clay used to make the 44 saggers ” 
 (? safe-guards) or large pans in which 
 the earthenware is burnt, almost 
 everything is brought from afar — 
 the china-clay from Cornwall, and 
 the flints from Oxfordshire. The 
 clay comes by sea from the Cornish 
 coast to Runcorn, whence it is 
 brought in enormous quantities by 
 barge along the Grand Trunk Canal. 
 The condition of the population of 
 this district has wonderfully im- 
 proved of late years, and now it can 
 vie with any other in order and 
 regularity, as well as the intelligence 
 of the artizans. Indeed, the very 
 nature of the art or trade in which 
 they are engaged, requires a high 
 standard of cultivation, and the 
 means for this are liberally sup- 
 plied by the Wedgwood and Minton 
 Memorials, which are supplemented 
 by Athenfeums and Schools of De- 
 sign in almost every town. 
 
 Leaving Longton the line passes 
 through a tunnel, and when it 
 emerges the country is seen to have 
 entirely lost sight of manufactures, 
 and to wear a pleasant green aspect. 
 
 20? m. Blyth Bridge (Stat.). This 
 is a hamlet of Dilhorne, and a plea- 
 sant village. Dilhorne Hall (Sir E. 
 M. Puller, IU.). 1‘ m. X. of the 
 
 stat. is Caverswall , where the ch. 
 has a monument by Chantrey to 
 Lady Rt. Vincent, and another to 
 8ir William de Caverswall, the 
 builder of the castle, temp. Edw. I. 
 (1275), which is styled by Leland 
 “the prati pile of Carswell/’ It 
 seems to have fallen into ruin, and 
 in 1643 Matthew Cradock built the 
 present castle (Sir J. P. Radcliffe), 
 on the same site. 44 It is of plain 
 character, with a massive tower in 
 good imitation of a mediaeval castle, 
 
 with a moat and wall of enceinte, 
 with buttresses and corner turrets ” 
 (Parker’s 4 Dorn. Arch.’). It was for 
 some time occupied by a community 
 of nuns, and there is a R. C. ch. 
 in the grounds. The tomb of the 
 founder bears the following inscrip- 
 tion : — 
 
 “Caslrl structor eram, domibus fossisque 
 ceraento 
 
 Vivte dans operam, nunc claudor in hoc 
 monumento .’ 
 
 To which an English version suc- 
 ceeds, of later date : — 
 
 44 William of Carswall here lye I, 
 
 That built this castle and pooies herebye ; 
 William of Carswall, here thou mayst lye, 
 But thy castle is down, and thy pooies are 
 drye.” 
 
 Cheadle is 4 m. N.E. (Rte. 34). 
 
 22 J m. Cresswell (Stat.) i m. N. 
 is Draycott , where is a fine Dec. Ch . ; 
 the chancel, which has been rebuilt, 
 contains a cross-legged effigy, and 
 several later tombs, all ascribed to 
 the Draycott family. One of them 
 is to Anthony Draycott, archdeacon 
 of Huntingdon and prebend of Lich- 
 field, who was deprived of his pre- 
 ferments and imprisoned in the 
 Fleet in 1560 ; he died in 1571. 
 Their seat was at Painsley Hall, 
 where the moated site is now occu- 
 pied by a farmhouse. 
 
 25? m. Leigh (Stat.). The river 
 Blyth is here crossed. The Ch. 
 stands finely on a hill to the E., 
 and, except the tower, w T as rebuilt in 
 1845. It is cruciform, with a massive 
 battlemented central tower. The 
 nave has aisles. There are some 
 modern stained glass windows by 
 Gibbs (one is a memorial of Bishop 
 Lonsdale), and an altar-tomb with 
 the recumbent figures of Sir John 
 and Lady Ashton, 1523. From re- 
 mains which have been dug up in 
 the ch.-yard, it is probable that the 
 former building was of Norm. date. 
 
 Al>out 1J m. N.E. is the Dec. Ch. of 
 Cheekley. which until a few years 
 back bad some curious mural paint- 
 ings, thus described by Garner: — 
 
183 
 
 Route 32.—Bramshall . — Uttoxeter. 
 
 “They consist of "emblems of mor- 
 tality, time, and eternity, such as 
 a globe, wings, hour-glass, skull, 
 cross - bones, scythe, arrow, and 
 spade, with an inscription in black 
 letter, * Oh Death, I will be thy 
 death — thy victor ! ’ Another in- 
 scription probably has reference to 
 an escutcheon with a wolf sable, 
 4 Beniamin shall raven as a wolfe, 
 in y e morning he shall devoure, and 
 at night he shall divide the spoil/ 
 The E. window of the chancel con- 
 tains arms, 5 figures, and as many 
 pictures, one being a Crucifixion. A 
 window to the S. has likewise pic- 
 tures of a later date, emblematical 
 of the months— February, netting ; 
 March, pruning; April, planting; 
 May, flowers ; July, mowing ; Octo- 
 ber, swine-feeding ; and others diffi- 
 cult to make out/’ There is a good 
 Norm, font, and a 16th-centy. altar- 
 tomb, with recumbent figures of 
 Godfrey and Margaret Foljambe. 
 In the ch.-yard are 3 upright stones, 
 2 of them with interlaced ornamen- 
 tation, and the other plain, which, 
 according to local traditions, com- 
 memorate 3 bishops killed by the 
 Danes. 
 
 28J m. Bramshall (Stat.). The 
 ch. is a plain edifice, rebuilt in 1835 
 by Lord Willoughby de Broke. 
 1 m. S. is Loxley Sail , belonging to 
 the Kynnersleys, but occupied by 
 the Hon. Col. Stanley. The house 
 is modern, but a recollection of the 
 old mansion is preserved in panels 
 on the wall of the fine entrance 
 hall ; these are figures of the Apostles 
 and Evangelists, and the armorial 
 bearings of James I. and his sons, 
 together with those of many Stafford- 
 shire families ; the date is 1607, and 
 is said to commemorate a royal visit. 
 The estate belonged to the Ferrers, 
 but was forfeited by the last Earl 
 of Derby of that family in 1266, and 
 was bestowed on the Kynnersleys. 
 According to tradition, Loxley was 
 the birthplace of Robin Hood, and 
 
 an ancient horn preserved at the 
 hall goes by his name ; it bears the 
 arms of the Ferrers. 
 
 At a short distance beyond Brams- 
 hall, the Stafford and Uttoxeter 
 line (Rte. 31) falls in, and we reach 
 at 
 
 31^ m. Uttoxeter (Bridge-street 
 Stat. There is also a stat. at 
 Dove Bank, on the Burton and 
 Macclesfield Line (Rte. 33), and an- 
 other at Uttoxeter Junction (post). 
 (Inn: White Hart.) Locally Ut- 
 cheter, Uxeter, Utceter, or some- 
 times Toxeter. This is a well-built 
 little town (Pop. 4700), pleasantly 
 placed on elevated ground near the 
 river Dove. Some Roman remains 
 have been found in its neighbour- 
 hood. Camden considered it to 
 represent the Etocetum of Anto- 
 ninus, but this has been disproved. 
 (See Wall, Rte. 27.) At Strams- 
 hall, 1£ m. N.W., are tracts of early 
 earthworks. Uttoxeter was a part 
 of the honour of Tutbury, and 
 Robert de Ferrers made it a free 
 borough, in the time of Stephen. 
 Afterwards it passed to the Dukes 
 of Lancaster, and John of Gaunt 
 bestowed a part of tbe forest of 
 Need wood on its burgesses. Its 
 chief trade now is in the dairy pro- 
 duce of the rich pastures around, 
 but cork-cutting and clock-case- 
 making employ many hands. In 
 the centre of the town is the Market- 
 place, where Michael Johnson ex- 
 posed his books for sale, and where 
 his son 50 years after underwent his 
 self-imposed penance (Rte. 27). The 
 body of the Ch. was rebuilt in Dec. 
 style in 1828, but the fine original 
 tower and spire, 180 ft. high, re- 
 main. There are 2 altar-tombs 
 preserved, belonging to the Kyn- 
 nersleys of Loxley, and another, 
 with the figure of a nun, presumably 
 of the same family ; other monu- 
 ments, to the Mynors, hereditary 
 stewards of Tutbury, which existed 
 in the time of Shaw (1794), have 
 
184 
 
 Route 32 . — Crewe to Burton-on-Trent. 
 
 perished. There is a long black- 
 letter inscription for the Rev. Tlios. 
 Lightfoot (the father of the cele- 
 brated Hebrew scholar), who was 
 incumbent of the ch. for 36 years. 
 Thomas Alleyn, the mathematician, 
 Sir Simon Degge, the Staffordshire 
 antiquary, Admiral Lord Gardner, 
 and in our own day Mary Howitt, 
 were all born at Uttoxeter. Alleyn 
 founded the Grammar School in 
 1558 ; he was patronized by Lei- 
 cester, and, like Dr. Dee, he lay 
 under the stigma of practising magic 
 arts for his service. 
 
 32} m. Uttoxeter Junction 
 Stat. Hence the Churnet Valley 
 Line runs N. (Rte. 34). The stat. 
 is near the river. On the opposite, 
 or Derbyshire side, of the Dove, are 
 Doveridge village and Hall, the seat 
 of Lord Waterpark. For the re- 
 mainder of the distance the rly. 
 keeps close to the side of the Dove, 
 alternating between the counties of 
 Stafford and Derby. 
 
 34 1 m. Marchington (Stat.). The 
 ch. is a modern brick building, but 
 contains a fine altar-tomb for Sir 
 Walter Vernon (d. 1592). The 
 country at the back of the village 
 is beautifully w T ooded and broken, 
 being in fact the northern escarp- 
 ment of Need wood Forest. 
 
 36 m. Sudbury (Stat.). Across 
 the river, in Derbyshire, is Sudbury 
 Hall (Lord Vernon), a fine Eliza- 
 bethan house, in which the late 
 Queen Adelaide resided lor some 
 years. In the course of drainage 
 operations here, human and animal 
 remains, apparently belonging to a 
 very remote i>eriod, have been dis- 
 covered. A memorial window was 
 placed in the ch. in 1853 by the 
 Queen and Prince Consort to Mr. 
 G. E. Anson, keeper of the privy 
 purse, who was a native of Sudbury. 
 
 2} m. S.E. of the stat. on the high 
 grouud of Need wood, is Hanbury, a 
 
 very pleasant village. The Ch. owes 
 its origin to St. Werburgh, the niece 
 of King Ethelbert, w t 1io here founded 
 a nunnery, in which she was buried ; 
 but owing to the ravages of the 
 Danes in the 10th cent., her remains 
 were removed to Chester. It was 
 restored in 1849, when fragments of 
 several incised slabs of the 14th 
 cent, were discovered, used as bond- 
 ing stones ; they are now r preserved 
 in the nave, as a background to the 
 E. E. font. There is a cross-legged 
 effigy of John do Hanbury; some 
 curious figures of the Agardlis, the 
 husband in a cloak ana frill, and 
 the w T ife and daughter with ruffs 
 and broad-brimmed hats (d. 1608, 
 1634); and a recumbent figure of 
 Charles Egerton, ranger of Need- 
 wood in the civil war (d. 1662). 
 Burton, the antiquary, is also buried 
 in the ch. ; and there is a memorial 
 window to the Prince Consort, much 
 of the parish belonging to the Duchy 
 of Lancaster. The tourist should 
 ascend the ch. tower, for the sake of 
 the view, which is varied and beau- 
 tiful, and extends as far as Belvoir, 
 at least 40 m. distant in a direct 
 line. 
 
 A short distance E. of Sudbury 
 the line crosses the Dove, which fre- 
 quently overflows its banks, render- 
 ing them so fertile that it is a local 
 saying 
 
 “ In April Dove’s flood 
 Is worth a king’s good.” 
 
 On N. is Scropton , a Derbyshire 
 village with a handsomo new ch., 
 and on S. Fauld Hall (now a farm- 
 house), where the family of Burton 
 the antiquary was settled for several 
 generations, and where he died in 
 1645. Nearing Tutbury, the ruins 
 of the castle have a very imposing 
 apnearance on their height above 
 the Dove. 
 
 39} m. Tutbury (Stat. on the Der- 
 byshire side of the river). (Inn : 
 Castle.) Tutbury was a stronghold 
 
185 
 
 Route 30 - 
 
 of the Mercian kings, and in the 
 11th cent, it belonged to LTfric Spot, 
 the founder of Burton Abbey (Rte. 
 28). By William I. it was bestowed 
 on Henry de Ferrers, and the honour 
 of Tutbury, a tract of country of 
 very large extent, remained in his 
 family until forfeited by Robert de 
 Ferrers, Earl of Derby, in 1266. It 
 was by Henry III. given to his son 
 Edmund Earl of Lancaster, and it 
 still forms part of the duchy. 
 
 The castle was built by Henry 
 de Ferrers, but was in after times 
 greatly added to by John of Gaunt, 
 who often made it his residence, 
 and is said to have instituted the 
 bull-running and the Wichnor and 
 other jocular tenures (Rte. 28) for 
 the amusement of his Spanish bride. 
 In 1569 Mary Queen of Scots was re- 
 moved from Bolton Castle, in York- 
 shire, to Tutbury, under custody of 
 George Earl of Shrewsbury, and, 
 with one or two changes, remained 
 there till 1572. The castle was a 
 considerable royal garrison in the 
 civil war, and was one of the latest 
 to surrender ; it was dismantled and 
 pulled down after its capture by the 
 Parliamentary General Brereton in 
 1646. The existing gateway and 
 part of the northern front (after- 
 wards occupied by Mary Queen of 
 Scots) were built by John of Gaunt, 
 but strengthened with massive 
 bastions in the time of Charles I. 
 The circuit of the walls includes 
 an area of 3 acres, known as the 
 Tilt-yard ; within is a conical 
 mound, once crowned by the keep, 
 which has disappeared, and has 
 been replaced by an artificial ruin 
 called Julius’ Tower. “ There seems 
 little difference of date and style be- 
 tween the great gateway of the 
 castle and some of the buildings on 
 the opposite side of the court, both 
 being originally of rich Perp. archi- 
 tecture. At the latter side remain 
 the walls of two fine halls, with win- 
 dows at each end, their fireplaces 
 
 - Tutbury . 
 
 having jambs adorned with ani- 
 mals; the two rooms below these 
 halls were groined.” 
 
 Thomas 2nd Earl of Lancaster, 
 the chief of the barons who opposed 
 Edward II. and his favourite in 1322, 
 was driven out of Tutbury Castle by 
 the royal forces. In crossing the 
 Dove a little below Tutbury, his 
 military chest containing a large 
 sum of money was dropped and lost. 
 In 1831 a considerable quantity of 
 gravel being removed from the bed 
 of the river, several pieces of silver 
 coin were found by workmen about 
 60 yards below the bridge, and on 
 another occasion some thousands. 
 On advancing up the river, the 
 grand deposit was reached, 150 
 coming up on a single shovel. The 
 coins were mostly of Henry III., 
 Edward I. and II., but Scotch and 
 foreign pieces also occurred, the 
 whole number being estimated at 
 100,000. A portion was claimed as 
 treasure-trove by the Crown, and 
 these are now preserved in the 
 British Museum. 
 
 The Church , which is the nave of 
 De Ferrers’ foundation, with subse- 
 quent additions, is a large and hand- 
 some edifice, at a short distance W. of 
 the castle. The nave is Norm., with a 
 very rich W. doorway ; the S.' aisle is 
 E. E., and the N. aisle a modern imi- 
 tation of the same style. There is also 
 a square embattled tower. In 1863- 
 68 the church was restored by Sir 
 Oswald Mosley, when several painted 
 windows were inserted, and an apsi- 
 dal chancel (E. E.), added by Street. 
 
 Tutbury was formerly celebrated 
 for its sport of bull-running : 
 
 “The battle was fought near to Titbury town 
 
 Where the bagpiper baited the bull.” 
 
 And it acquired some notoriety from 
 the tricks of one Anne Moore, the 
 “ fasting woman,” who dwelt there 
 in 1817, and so plausibly acted her 
 part as to induce people to imagine 
 that she could live without food. 
 She was at last so closely watched 
 
186 
 
 Route 33. — Uttoxeter to Buxton. 
 
 as to be forced to confess her im- 
 posture.’ 
 
 1 m. beyond Tutbury is Jfundow- 
 on-the-Dore ; the E. E. ch. has a 
 good spire, and a Norm. font. In 
 the hamlet of Hitton, \ ni. E., is a 
 timbered mansion, gabled and 
 quaintly ornamented, called Wnke- 
 lyn. w hi.-h i- w rt h . ri_r. N. :ir 
 Marston a branch goes otT K. to 
 join the Midland Rly. atWillington 
 (Kte. 1), but the main line crosses 
 the Dove. At 41 ra. we have on W. 
 JiolUfton UaU (Sir Tonman Mosley), 
 with the ch. adjoining. The Hall, 
 which was greatly damaged by tire 
 in 1871, has been re-edified, and is 
 a very handsome modem building, 
 on a site that was occupied by the 
 Rnllestons from the 13th to the 
 17th centy. The estate was bought 
 in the time of James I. by Sir 
 Edward Mosley, Attorney-General 
 for the Duchy of Lancaster. The 
 Ch ., which has a good spire, is 
 mainly Dec., but has a Norm. door. 
 There is the effigy of an ecclesiastic, 
 and also monuments of the Kolles- 
 ton And Mosley families. 1 m. E. is 
 Dowel iff lhnue (Mrs. Thome will). 
 At 13 m. we pass Stretton , where are 
 extensive ironworks, and the lino 
 runs into the Midland about j m. 
 before reaching at 
 
 45 m. Durton-on-Trcnt (Ute. 28). 
 
 ROUTE 33. 
 
 UTTOXETER TO BUXTON, BY ASH- 
 BOURNE AND HARTINGTON 
 
 [DOVEDALE]. 
 
 N. STAFF. RLY. ANT) ROAD. 20 m. 
 
 This very picturesque route is on 
 tho l>order of the two counties of 
 Stafford and Derby, and frequently 
 crosses the Dove, which divides 
 them. The rly. is only available to 
 Ashbourne (11 in. 
 
 For Uttoxeter , see Rto. 32. 
 
 Leaving the town bv tho Chumet 
 Valley line, we keep near the Dove 
 for the whole distance. On E. (in 
 Derbyshire) is the village of Dove- 
 ridge, the lofty spire of the ch. 
 showing well on tho hill, and tho 
 grounds of Dotcridge Hall (Lord 
 Waterpark extending to the river. 
 At 1 in. on E., but in Staffordshire, 
 is Orakeinarth Hall (Lady Shep- 
 pard) ; the village is mentioned in 
 Domesday ns a posset-ion of Earl 
 Algar of Mercia. 
 
 4 m. Rocestf.r JrxcT. St at. 
 Hence the Chumet Valley Line runs 
 X. to Alton, Ix'ok, Ac. Kte. 34), 
 but we proceed NJB. on the Ash- 
 bourne branch. 
 
 G in. Norhury (Stat.). Tho ch. 
 is a tine structure, mainly IVrp., but 
 with Dec. chnnnel. It has some 
 good early glass, and several tombs 
 and brasses of the Fitzherberta. Tho 
 monument of Sir Anthony Fitzhcr- 
 H VIIL’fl 
 
 time (d. 1538}, in full judicial cos- 
 tume. with his wife in heraldic 
 mantle, may Is* noticed. 
 
 1 m. W. is Ella done , a very ex- 
 tensive |*iri*h. Tho l*erp. ch. has 
 an milrntth’d tower, and contains tho 
 altar-tomb of Sir Richard Fleetwood 
 ofCalwirh temp. Charles II.}. X. of 
 F.llostoni' is the lim<«tnne range of 
 Woevcr. where, at .W>*i/ in 
 is a quadrangular hillock within a 
 
187 
 
 'Route 33 .' — Snelston . — Clifton . — Ashbourne. 
 
 trench, supposed to be a British 
 barrow. In Ellastone parish are 
 several fine seats, as Wootton Park 
 (Miss Unwin), the grounds of which 
 are romantic and beautiful ; W ootton 
 Lodge, an old mansion in the style 
 of Inigo Jones; and Wootton Hall 
 (Sir H. H. Edwardes, Bt.), the oc- 
 casional residence of Jean Jacques 
 Kousseau. 
 
 Nearer to the river Dove is Calwich 
 Abbey (Hon. and Very Rev. A. 
 Duncombe, Dean of York), a modern 
 mansion, built in 1818. It stands at 
 some distance from the site of a cell 
 founded in the time of Stephen by 
 Nicholas Fitz-Nigel, and bestowed 
 on the Abbey of Rocester. At the 
 Dissolution the property was pur- 
 chased by one of the Fleetwoods, and 
 came afterwards to the Granvilles, 
 who built a house (now pulled down) 
 that was often visited by Handel, 
 and where he is said to have com- 
 posed a large portion of his “ Mes- 
 siah.” 
 
 8 m. On E. Snelston, with a Perp. 
 ch. with low square tower. Snelston 
 Hall (John Harrison, Esq.). On the 
 W. side of the river is the village of 
 Church Mayfield , where Moore wrote 
 his 4 Lalla Rookh.’ The solitary cot- 
 tage still stands in High Mayfield 
 where the poet lived, and where he 
 was visited by Rogers. Mayfield ch. 
 contains many interesting Norm, de- 
 tails, and particularly a Norm, door 
 in the S. porch, the margin of the arch 
 being cut into lozenge-like cavities, 
 with trefoils between. 2 m. W. of 
 Mayfield is Stanton, the birthplace 
 of Gilbert Sheldon, Archbishop of 
 Canterbury, on whom Bishop Hacket 
 wrote the following lines : — 
 
 “ Sheldonus ille Praesulum primus pater 
 
 Hos inter ortus aspicit lucem Lares ; 
 
 0 ter beatam Stantonis villas casam ! 
 
 Cui cuncta possum invidere marmora.” 
 
 10 m. Clifton (Stat.). The Ch. 
 is a small modem E. E. edifice. 
 
 11 m. Ashbourne (Stat.). Hotel: 
 Green Man. Ashbourne, anciently 
 
 spelt Ersebume, said by Cotton to 
 be famous for the best malt and 
 the worst ale in England, is a very 
 prettily-situated town, mainly of one 
 long street, at the foot of which, op- 
 posite the stat., is the ch. placed 
 under the brow of a hill overlooking 
 the valley of the Dove, from which, 
 however, it is distant a full m. 
 It is frequently, and very judiciously, 
 selected as the headquarters from 
 whence to explore the lovely scenery 
 of Dovedale. The Church is a 
 very fine cruciform building, princi- 
 pally E. E., with later additions, 
 and noticeable for possessing a S. 
 aisle only. From the centre rises 
 a tower and fine octagonal spire, 
 212 ft. in height, called in the dis- 
 trict, the Pride of the Peak. The E. 
 window of the chancel is a 7-light 
 Perp. window, and there are in the 
 Cockayne chapel some particularly 
 beautiful triple lancets. The tran- 
 septs and nave are Dec. On one of 
 the piers is a marble tablet, contain- 
 ing an inscription, formerly existing 
 on a brass, to the effect that the ch. 
 was dedicated to St. Oswald by Hugh 
 de Patesbull, Bishop of Coventry 
 and Lichfield, in 1241. 
 
 In the chancel are monuments to 
 the Sacheverells and Langtons ; also 
 in the N. transept those of the 
 Cockayne family who flourished from 
 the 14th to the 17th centy. One of 
 them, Sir Thomas Cockayne, accord- 
 ing to the epitaph : — 
 
 “ was a knight so worshipfull, 
 
 So virtuous, wyse, and pitifull ; 
 
 His dedes deserve that his good name 
 Lyve here in everlasting fame.” 
 
 Of the Boothby monuments, notice 
 the sculptured figure, by Banks, of 
 Penelope, only child of Sir Brooke 
 Boothby (d. 1791), and the melan- 
 choly inscription (with others in 
 Latin, French, and Italian) : — 
 
 “ She was in form and intellect most exqui- 
 site. The unfortunate parents ventured their all 
 on this frail bark, and the wreck was total.” 
 
 This touching figure is said to 
 have suggested to Chantrey the idea 
 
188 
 
 Bouie 33. — Uttoxeter to Buxton. 
 
 of his sleeping children in Lichfield 
 Cathedral. 
 
 In the S. transept is an Elizabethan 
 alabaster altar-touib to Sir Humphrey 
 Bradborne and his wifo. The ch. is 
 finely placed, and is approached 
 through an avenue of limes. The 
 Grammar-school is a picturesque 1 Gth 
 centy. building, and the Almshouses 
 of Christopher Pegg, founded 1GG9, 
 are worth notice. Opposite the 
 school is the house where the Rev. 
 Dr. Taylor, the intimate friend of 
 Johnson, lived for many years. 
 
 Ashbourne Hall (R. H. Frank, 
 Esq.), through the grounds of which 
 the Henmoor Brook flows, was once 
 the residence of the Cockaynes, and 
 subsequently of the Booth by s, who 
 were noted in their day for their 
 literary powers. The Hall was oc- 
 cupied by Prince Charles during 
 his visit to Derbyshire in 1745, 
 and one of the doors still shows the 
 name of the otticer to whom the room 
 was appropriated. Other seats in 
 the neighbourhood are — Osmaston 
 Manor (F. Wright, Esq.), a curious 
 pile, with a single tower-like chim- 
 ney, on the Derby road ; Okeover 
 Hall (H. Okeover, Esq.) in Stafford- 
 shire {post). 
 
 Distances. — Derby, 13 m. ; Burton, 
 25; Uttoxeter, 11 ; Alton Towers, 9. 
 
 The high road from Ashbourne to 
 Buxton runs in its southern part 
 parallel with Dovedale, but on the 
 wrong side of the hill to allow the 
 tourist to see its beauties. 
 
 At 2 m. is Fenny Bentley , where 
 are some remains of an old castle 
 of the Beresfords, now a farmhouse. 
 The Ch. has been enlarged, but 
 fortunately the very fine Perp. 
 screen has been preserved. In the 
 chancel are several monuments of 
 the Beresfords, the most noticeable 
 of which is a high tomb, obviously 
 remade in the 17th cent., but bearing 
 the effigy of Sir Thomas Beresford, 
 who fought at Agincourt, and who 
 lived to send a troop of his own sons 
 and retainers to the wars of the Roses. 
 
 Bentley Brook , which runs into the 
 Dove below Ashbourne, is celebrated 
 in ‘The Complete Angler’ as “full 
 of very good trout and grayling, but 
 so encumbered with wood in many 
 places as to be troublesome to an 
 angler.” 
 
 4 m. Tissington . The Hall (SirW. 
 Fitzherbert, Bart.) is an Elizabethan 
 mansion of stone, approached by an 
 avenue. In the oak-panelled dining- 
 room is a noble chimney-piece of 
 Hopton stone reaching to the roof. 
 There are some pictures, chiefly 
 family portraits, in the house, and 
 among them one of Mrs. Meynell, of 
 whom Dr. Johnson said that she 
 possessed the best understanding he 
 had ever met with in any human 
 being. The Rev. Richard Greaves, 
 author of the ‘ Spiritual Quixote,’ 
 once resided at the Hall, and has 
 introduced in that work, written here, 
 many allusions to persons and things 
 in the vicinity. In the ch., which has 
 some Norm., portions are monuments 
 of the Fitzherberts, who have pos- 
 sessed the estate from the time 
 of Henry IV. Judge Fitzherbert, 
 author of the ‘ Natura Brevium,’ was 
 born here in 1458; he is buried at 
 Norbury {ante). 
 
 An ancient and curious custom of 
 dressing the 5 wells or springs of 
 this village with flowers on Holy 
 Thursday is still kept up, and is 
 known as “ Tap Dressing ” or “ Well 
 Flowering .” A wooden framework in 
 the shape of tho pattern to be fol- 
 lowed is formed and covered with 
 clay, into which the flowers are stuck, 
 forming a sort of floral mosaic ; this 
 is placed over the water, which ap- 
 pears to issue out of tho flowers. 
 The Hall \v< 11, under tin* hill on 
 which tho ch. stands, is most care- 
 fully ornamented ; sentences from 
 the Bible, in letters formed of flowers, 
 encircle its basin. Service is per- 
 formed at tho ch., after which tho 
 inhabitants walk in procession to 
 each of tho wells and repeat tho 
 psalms and collects of the day. The’ 
 
Boute 33 . — Dovedale. 
 
 189 
 
 custom, once a general one, had 
 come to be confined to Tissington, 
 but has been lately revived at Mat- 
 lock, Wirksworth, and other places. 
 “ The origin of the well-dressing was 
 doubtless from a pious feeling of 
 thankfulness for the bountiful supply 
 of pure water ; and in towns like 
 Buxton and Wirksworth, which were 
 badly off for it, the revival dates 
 from the period when public wells 
 and taps were opened/’ 
 
 Near Tissington a flat barrow, 
 called Sharp Low, was opened by Mr. 
 Bateman, who found the skeleton of 
 a young person, without the usual 
 protection of a cist; it was lying, 
 however, on the 1. side, a proof that 
 it dated from Celtic times. Near 
 Thorpe Cloud he opened another 
 barrow, containing a man’s skeleton, 
 and an immense number of water- 
 rats’ bones. 
 
 [Dovedale may be reached by turn- 
 ing off W. opposite the park gates 
 of Tissington. Carriages must pro- 
 ceed through Thorpe Bentley (Inn: 
 Dog and Partridge), but the pedes- 
 trian can make his way by rough 
 farm tracks, and materially shorten 
 his journey.] 
 
 From Tissington a long ascent 
 through a bleak and monotonous 
 country succeeds, offering a striking 
 contrast to the beautiful parallel val- 
 ley which lies so close on the left. 
 
 6 m. Alsop , a village with a small 
 Norm. ch. Here Beeon the Re- 
 former found shelter during the 
 Marian persecution, and here he 
 wrote his ‘ News out of Heaven both 
 Pleasant and Joyful/ as a new year’s 
 gift to his patron, Sir George Pierre- 
 pont. 1 m. E. is Parwich, where a 
 Roman camp may be traced. 
 
 9 m. Biggin , a village with a 
 modern ch. In the high road is the 
 Newhaven House inn, built by the 
 5th Duke of Devonshire in a 
 very wild country; it is, however, 
 a convenient place whence to visit 
 
 the singular circle of Arborlow (Rte. 
 6). Hartington is 2 m. W., whence 
 there is easy access to Beresford 
 Dale (post). At 11 m. the High 
 Peak Rly. is crossed, and a Roman 
 road runs parallel with the turnpike- 
 road, falling into it at Hen Moor. 
 
 13 m., Monyash is 1^ m. E. Here 
 a barmote court is held twice a year 
 for the settlement of mining disputes. 
 The ch. has a fine grove of lime- 
 trees, planted by the unfortunate 
 Mr. Lomas (Rte. 6). In the neigh- 
 bourhood is One Ash Grange, the 
 site of a place of confinement for 
 refractory monks from Roche Abbey. 
 At Benty Grange , near Monyash, on 
 opening a barrow, beside the skele- 
 ton were found several Saxon anti- 
 quities. They included the silver 
 edging and ornaments of a leather 
 cup, together with some personal orna- 
 ments, enamels, and beads. The 
 vale of Lathkill (Rte. 6) may be 
 well visited from here. 
 
 15 m. Church (or EarVs) Sterndale . 
 This is a part of the extensive parish 
 of Hartington. It has a plain mo- 
 dern ch. The neighbouring hills 
 have many tumuli, in some of which, 
 as at Cronkstone hill, the horns of 
 deer have been found along with 
 human remains (post ) , 
 
 20 m. Buxton (Rte. 7). 
 
 Dovedale. 
 
 The name Dovedale in strictness 
 only belongs to a space of about 
 3 m. between Ilam and Mill Dale, 
 but in a more extended sense it 
 includes Mill Dale, Hall Dale, and 
 Beresford Dale, thus really taking in 
 all the border district of Derby and 
 Stafford between Ashbourne and 
 Hartington, a distance of about 14 m. 
 It is in this wider sense that the 
 term is here used. 
 
 There is a choice of roads from 
 Ashbourne into Dovedale, by taking, 
 on leaving the town, the E. or the 
 W. bank of the river. The Leek 
 turnpike road may be followed for 
 
190 
 
 Route 33 . — Uttoxeter to Buxton . 
 
 1 \ m., then cross the Dove at Hang- 
 ing Bridge, and proceed along the 
 W. bank of the stream to Okeover 
 (3 m.). Or a shorter wav may bo 
 taken through Mappleton (little more 
 than a suburb of Ashbourne), where 
 the inn (Okeover Arms) is a good 
 fishing stution. The ch. is a singular- 
 looking edifice, having a dome sur- 
 mounted by an urn. A road, a short 
 distance N., leads to a bridge across 
 the Dove, here a broad, placid 
 stream, and just beyond we pass 
 Okeover Hall (H. C. Okeover, Esq.), 
 which has been the property of 
 the Okeovers from Saxon times. 
 Mr. Plumer Ward, the author of 
 ‘Tremaine,* and stepfather of the 
 present Mr. Okeover, resided here for 
 some years. The old gabled house, 
 engraved in Plot, contains a few good 
 pictures, and among them a Holy 
 Family by Raphael, a replica of the 
 one at Madrid. The Perp. ch. con- 
 tains several monuments of the 
 Okeovers, and has been elaborately 
 restored by Scott. 
 
 4 m. On W. is the village of Blore , 
 with a small ch. containing some 
 15th-centy. brasses and an altar- 
 tomb of the Bassets, formerly of 
 Blore Hall, a mansion long since 
 pulled down. 
 
 As the traveller proceeds up the 
 vale the most conspicuous objects 
 are the two great sentinel heights of 
 Thorpe Cloud (E.) and Bunster (W.), 
 which flank the entrance of Dove- 
 dale proper. 
 
 5 m. Ham Hall (J. Watts-Russell, 
 Esq.), a beautiful place in Stafford- 
 shire, near the Dove and on the 
 Manifold, which here emerges out of 
 a rock, as does also the Uamps , 
 within a few yards of it, each river 
 having pursued an underground 
 course for several miles, and uniting 
 at Ilam in a copious stream, which 
 soon falls into the Dove. Of these 
 rivers Drayton sings in his 4 Poly- 
 Olbion : ’ — 
 
 “ Hanse, that this while suppos’d him quite 
 out of her sight. 
 
 No sooner thrusts his head into the cheer- 
 ful light. 
 
 But Manifold, that still the runaway doth 
 watch. 
 
 Him, ere he was aware, about the neck 
 doth catch ; 
 
 And as the angry Hanse would from her 
 hold remove, 
 
 They, struggling, tumble down into their 
 lord, the Dove.” 
 
 The bouse, built by its owner in a 
 style of mixed Tudor and Eliza- 
 bethan, with Norm, tower, though 
 incorrect in detail, is a rather im- 
 posing mass. The collection of pic- 
 tures consists principally of works by 
 English artists, Gainsborough, Hil- 
 ton, Calcott, Landseer and others, 
 with a few of the foreign masters. 
 In the grounds stands the Church 
 (with a W. saddleback tower), which 
 has been sumptuously restored by 
 Scott. In the S. chancel aisle is a 
 curious E. E. shrine of a saint (St. 
 Bertholin or Bertram of Stafford). 
 But the most noticeable feature is 
 an octagonal Gothic mausoleum, 
 built from the designs of Chantrey, 
 to contain a monumental group by 
 him to the memory of Mr. D. Pike 
 Watts, father of Mrs. Watts-Russell. 
 He is represented in a reclining atti- 
 tude, giving his parting blessing to 
 his daughter and her three children. 
 The building will not stand criticism 
 in its details, but it is grandiose, and, 
 opening as its does into the church, 
 gives effect to the whole structure. 
 In the ch. may be observed somo 
 funeral garlands, of modern date, a 
 revival of the old custom. (See 
 Axh ford, Rte. G.) 
 
 The scenery in the grounds is 
 beautiful, and traditionally it is said 
 to have suggested to Dr. Johnson his 
 description of the u happy vnlley 99 in 
 ‘ Basse las.’ Here is the grotto where 
 Congreve composed his 4 Old Ba- 
 chelor.’ Ilam Hall is only a short 
 walk from the Isaak Walton Inn 
 (port), whence permission can gene- 
 rally be procured to see it. 
 
 The village is a charmingly pic- 
 
191 
 
 Boute 33 —The Manifold . — Dovedale. 
 
 turesque collection of cottages, with 
 a nice school-house, evidently well 
 cared for. Near the bridge over the 
 Manifold is a Dec. Gothic Eleanor 
 cross erected to the memory of Mrs. 
 Watts-Bussell, the base of which 
 serves as a well and fountain for 
 the use of the villagers, with the 
 following pretty inscription : — 
 
 “ Free as for all these crystal waters flow, 
 
 Her gentle eyes would weep for others’ woe. 
 
 Dried is that fount ; hut long may this 
 endure, 
 
 To he a well of comfort to the poor.” 
 
 [At Ham the tourist should for 
 a while leave Dovedale to the E., 
 and follow the Manifold (wholly in 
 Staffordshire) up its, for a consider- 
 able distance, dry bed. This river 
 has a course generally parallel to that 
 of the Dove, rising somewhat to the 
 S.W. of that stream, and running all 
 the way through the gritstone dis- 
 trict, while the most romantic glens 
 of the Dove, such as Dove, Mill, and 
 Beresford Dales, are in the limestone 
 — a fact that explains the difference of 
 the scenery of the two rivers. 
 
 Not far from Ilam on W, is Throw- 
 ley Hall , belonging to Earl Cathcart, 
 a very picturesque Tudor mansion, 
 now a farmhouse. The upper valley 
 of the Manifold possesses much syl- 
 van beauty, but at this lower part 
 the hills attain great height, with 
 awe-inspiring forms. To the W. is 
 Grindon (5 m. from 11am) pic- 
 turesquely situated on a steep bank, 
 with the sharp spire of its modern 
 Gothic church, conspicuous for miles. 
 To the E., high up on the hillside, 
 which rises as a bare rock in the 
 upper part to the height of 350 ft., is 
 Thor's Cave, thought by some to be 
 so called from its having been dedi- 
 cated to Thor. It is more probable, 
 however, that this is a mere corrup- 
 tion, the “ tor ” or hill in which it 
 is situated, being really meant. In 
 1861 much of the dirt that had accu- 
 mulated for generations was cleared, 
 and some interesting Romano-Bri- 
 
 tannic relics discovered. These were 
 collected by Mr. Carrington, the self- 
 educated schoolmaster at Wetton, an 
 intelligent and enthusiastic anti- 
 quary. Mr. Bateman remarks: “ The 
 articles found in Thor’s Cave appear 
 to belong to the later Celtic and 
 Romano-Celtic period. The age of 
 flint implements appears to be unre- 
 presented, and nothing of a decidedly 
 Saxon era seems to be comprised 
 among the objects.” 
 
 A little to the N. of the cave the 
 tourist comes from the N.E. round 
 the flank of the bold Ecton Hill, 
 noticeable for its copper-mine, which 
 yielded the revenues out of which 
 the 5th Duke of Devonshire built the 
 Crescent at Buxton (Rte. 7). After 
 a long period of neglect, a company 
 resumed the working, but with dimi- 
 nished success. Near this is Wetton 
 bridge, where the Manifold sinks 
 into the ground. From Thor’s Cave, 
 through Wetton and Alstonefield, it 
 is about 3 m. to the head of Mill 
 Dale (post ). 
 
 From excavations made in 1848 
 and subsequent years by Messrs. 
 Bateman and Carrington at a spot 
 called the Borough (Burgh) Holes, 
 near Wetton, it was ascertained that 
 this was the site of a Romano-British 
 village. Not only skeletons' and 
 bones of animals, but weapons and 
 articles of domestic use, were dis- 
 covered, together with pavements and 
 Roman coins.] 
 
 The tourist will now enter Dove- 
 dale, but he must be informed that 
 by far the greater part can only be 
 traversed by the pedestrian, and that 
 the fallen stones under foot, and the 
 rough stone walls that occur every 
 few hundred yards, will make his 
 progress very slow. The stream is 
 crossed by numerous weirs, and by 
 small bridges of the rudest descrip- 
 tion, and the fishery is strictly pre- 
 served. Tickets, however, at 2s. 6d. 
 a-day, giving a range of 2 or 3 m., 
 may be had at the Izaak Walton 
 hotel, Ilam, and for the upper part 
 
192 
 
 Route 33 . — Uttoxeter to Buxton. 
 
 of the stream, at the Charles Cotton, 
 at’Hartington (pout). 
 
 At the foot ot Bu nster, in Stafford- 
 shire, and adjoining Ilam, is the Izaak 
 Walton Hotel , 5 in. from Ashbourne, 
 a comfortable little inn, and the para- 
 dise of fishers, who are now ap- 
 proaching the region sacred to 
 anglers bv the labours of Walton 
 and his friend Chas. Cotton, who 
 thus apostrophises his favourite 
 river : — 
 
 44 The rapid Garonne and the winding Seine 
 Are both too mean. 
 
 Beloved Dove, with thee 
 To vie priority : 
 
 Nay, Tame and Isis, when conjoin’d, submit, 
 And lay their trophies at thy silver feet/’ 
 
 The Dove rises in Axe Edge, and 
 throughout its course furnishes a 
 boundary between the counties of 
 Derby and Stafford, and joins the 
 Trent below Burton (Rte. 1). Of 
 the many vales through which it 
 flows, that called, par excellence, the 
 Dovedale , extending for about three 
 miles, from Ilam to Mill Dale, presents 
 in its course scenes of unparalleled 
 beauty. It is “ a secluded valley or 
 glen, through which flows a clear and 
 rapid stream, with green banks and 
 shelving slopes, hemmed in by bold 
 and lofty hills, mantled with thick 
 scrub and brushwood, through which 
 protrude grey weather-beaten crags 
 and walls of naked limestone rock.” — 
 Croston. 
 
 The first cluster of isolated rocks 
 is that on the Staffordshire side, 
 called the Twelve Apostles. Then 
 follow, on the Derby snore, the co- 
 nical group called Tissington Spires ; 
 opposite which is a high castellated 
 mass called the Church Rock. Rey- 
 nard’s Cave, or Hall, is a cavern on 
 the right, a lofty domed archway, 
 near the summit of the cliff. A rope 
 is placed here to assist tourists in 
 their ascent. 
 
 In July, 1761, Dean Langton of 
 Clogher, who was on a visit to 
 Ashbourne, attempted to ride to 
 the top of one of the slopes near 
 
 Reynard’s Hall with a young lady 
 seated behind him. When near 
 the summit, the horse slipped and 
 rolled down, killing the Dean and 
 much injuring the lady ; her life was 
 saved by her being caught by the 
 hair in a thorn bush. 
 
 The dale higher up contracts sud- 
 denly, at the Strait , leaving but a 
 narrow passage for the river, and an 
 indifferent footpath. Emergiug from 
 this defile, and passing on rt. the 
 rock called the Lion’s Head, we 
 reach the most remarkable group, in 
 the dale, the Pickering Tors, isolated 
 conical peaks, with the Ilam Stone 
 opposite. The Dovelioles, just oppo- 
 site the entrance to Mill Dale, are 
 the usual tenni nation of most of the 
 excursions to the Dale, but the tour- 
 ist will not regret continuing his ex- 
 ploration as far as Hartington, or 
 even to Earl’s Stemdale. Dr. John- 
 son in his tour visited Dovedale, of 
 which he says : “ I certainly expected 
 a large river, where I found only a 
 quiet, clear brook. I believe I had 
 imaged a valley enclosed by rocks, 
 and terminated by a broad expanse 
 of water. He that has seen Dove- 
 dale has no need to visit the High- 
 lands.” 
 
 The Gramnitti ceterach grows in 
 the clefts of the high rocks in Dove- 
 dale, and the Osmunda rtgalis is met 
 with near Ashbourne. 
 
 9 m. Mill Vale , whence a road 
 leads W. to Alstonefield and Wctton, 
 is a picturesque little hamlet, in 
 which the houses seem fitted into 
 their respective niches in the hillside. 
 AUtonefield Church contains some 
 specimens of Norm., E. E., Dec. and 
 Pcrp. ; but the feature in it which 
 will most interest the ccclesiologist 
 is a very early specimen, at the E. 
 end of the nave and just N. of the 
 small Norm, chancel arch, of the 
 combined pulpit and reading desk, 
 bearing date 1637, nnd covered with 
 inscriptions and Renaissance carving. 
 In the N. aisle is the Beresford Hall 
 pew, erected by Charles Cotton, and 
 
193 
 
 Boute 33 . — Beresford Bale . 
 
 carved and gilded in the style of the 
 period. 
 
 At 10 m. is Load Mill, where 
 Cotton’s Viator found “ the sign of 
 a bridge which a mouse could hardly 
 go over,” and asked, “Do you use 
 to travel with wheelbarrows in this 
 country ?” This is, generally speak- 
 ing, the extreme N. point of those 
 who only think of “ doing ” Dovedale. 
 The bridge is now wide enough to 
 permit the passage of any carriage. 
 The reach of the river above it, 
 called Hall Dale, is of a stern, bare 
 character, the banks on either side 
 closing upon the stream, varied only 
 by a grey face of rock or a stunted 
 tree. The lofty height of Wolf’s- 
 cote overhangs it on the Derbyshire 
 side, and opposite it, on the Stafford- 
 shire side, the hills turn suddenly 
 away to the W., but with a short 
 intervening space of flat meadow, 
 forming, with the Derbyshire heights, 
 the northernmost of the 4 glens 
 which may collectively be termed 
 Dovedale. 
 
 This is Beresford Dale, noticeable 
 both as the cradle of the well-known 
 family of that name, and as the seat 
 of Charles Cotton, and the locale 
 of the fishing-excursion (more than 
 equivalent to a modern journey to 
 Norway) of the Stafford-born but 
 London -bred Walton, celebrated in 
 Cotton’s-. 2nd part of the ‘ Complete 
 Angler/ Beresford Hall, whose plea- 
 sure-ground is formed by this dale,, 
 seems to have been from Saxon 
 times the residence of a stock who 
 lived at the Bear’s ford, branch- 
 ing off to Fenny Bentley and other 
 neighbouring places. A cadet of the 
 family settled in Ireland at the time 
 of James I.’s plantation of Ulster,, 
 and his descendant in the last cen- 
 tury, intermarrying with the heiress 
 of De La Poer of Curraghmore in 
 the county of Waterford, was the 
 ancestor of the noble families of 
 Waterford and Decies. At last Beres- 
 ford passed early in the 17th centy. 
 by an heiress to the family of Stan- 
 
 [ Derby , Notts , Leic, and Staff."] 
 
 hope of Elvaston, whose daughter 
 and heiress eloped with Cotton’s 
 father. The Cottons were a thrift- 
 less race, and the property passed 
 away in the time of the angler’s son, 
 until, after successive changes and 
 deteriorations, it was purchased in 
 1825 by Marshal Lord Beresford, the 
 victor of Albuera, and bequeathed by 
 him to his kinsman Mr. Beresford- 
 Hope. The house (in Staffordshire), 
 a picturesque gabled structure of 
 the 16th and 17th cents.,, becoming 
 ruinous, was pulled down in order to 
 preserve its materials for reconstruc- 
 tion in the same style. 
 
 Beresford Dale, about \ m. long, is 
 a scene of singular beauty, from the 
 combination which it offers of moun- 
 tain stream, grey rock, grass-slope, and 
 well-grown timber picturesquely dis- 
 posed. At its side is a small natural 
 cave in which Cotton was wont to 
 hide from his creditors,* while the 
 heigh! above is crowned by the 
 ruins of a tower, in which, as he 
 commemorates in one of his poems, 
 his 2nd wife the Countess of Ard 
 glass used to light a beacon to 
 guide him home. His bowling-green 
 can also be traced close by. But the 
 chief feature of the dale is the Bilie 
 Pool and Bock — “ a rock springing 
 up in the middle of the river. ■ This 
 is one of the oddest sights that ever 
 I saw.” So says Viator in Cotton’s 
 4 Angler,’ and he does not exagge- 
 rate. This natural obelisk of grey 
 stone is the more beautiful from 
 being set against a background of 
 luxuriant foliage almost dipping into 
 the Dove. / 
 
 At the head of the dale the glen 
 ceases, the Derbyshire range of hills 
 indeed continuing, but falling back 
 
 * “ Oh ! my beloved Caves, from Dogstar’s 
 heat, 
 
 And all anxieties, my safe retreat, 
 
 What safety, privacy, what true delight, 
 
 In the artificial night 
 Your gloomy entrails make, 
 
 Have I taken, do I take.” — 
 
 Cotton’s Retiremmt. 
 
 K 
 
194 
 
 Route 33 . — Uttoxeter to Buxton. 
 
 fmm the river, while the continuity 
 >r iffordsh re range is rather 
 interrupted. Where the meadows 
 begin to contract Mauds the famous 
 fishing-house built by Cotton, with 
 the inscription •* Piscatcribti* sacrum, 
 1674,” and the interlaced initials 
 I. W. and C. C.. the symbol of the 
 strange friendship between men so 
 unlike as the saintly Walton and 
 the pleasun^-loving Cotton. It is a 
 small square building, with a high 
 pynuniii.il mof and a fireplace, but 
 (itton s “fine wainscot" has gone, 
 and a round ** marble table 91 re- 
 places the square one which he set 
 up; otherwise it is in ttatu quo. A 
 pleasant walk of about ] m. through 
 meadows lends us to 
 
 14 m. Il iriiuqion (Inn : the Charles 
 Cotton. late the Sleigh Arms, very 
 comfortable , a small Derbyshire 
 market-town. rustling between the 
 hills, und an aduirmhle station for 
 the angler, the tourist, or the arch- 
 aeologist, who desires to explore the 
 numerous tumuli and “lows" in 
 the neigh liourhood lietween it and 
 Winster, sueh ns Gib Hill, Kenslow, 
 and Arlmrlow. The (mrish is of 
 enormous size, divided into T’pper, 
 Middh , Mother, and Town Quar- 
 ter*. and extending almost to 
 Ituxton ; it also toiicdies Hope and 
 link* well. The Ch. is of mixi'il 
 styles, rrneifonn, and with W. 
 tower; the X transept is small, but 
 tlie 8. one lias a W aisle. Niitieo 
 a memorial window to the Sleighs, 
 so mo qtaaint painting* of the cm- 
 blcaas of tie 12 tribes, and a 
 square altar-table r»n«l with the 
 names of the four wardens of the 
 Quarters, a Puritan relic, Ih*ide 
 the rimr. the church 1ms a dean, 
 shoe office at present is neither 
 very onerous rw*r very lucrative. 
 Hariingitm Hall, now a farm-house, 
 the a orient seat of the I Ia remans, 
 is a very picturesque gabled house. 
 The town gives his wojqiI title Ur 
 the l hike of Devonshire. 
 
 The universal greenness of all this 
 upland region is very striking, and 
 dairy farming is the general occupa- 
 tion. Sueh hay as is mndo has in 
 rainy seasons to remain uncut till Into 
 in the nutumn, while wheat is virtually 
 unknown, ami the only cultivation 
 practised is that of exits, with tho 
 ride of their sometimes not ripening. 
 Tho oat-cake, which is the general 
 diet of farmers and labourers, is not 
 the sweet crisp edible which is ob- 
 tained in Scotland, but a sour, tlubby 
 substance. Such as it is, however, 
 it is much relished. 
 
 Distance*. — Winster, 7| m. ; Ash- 
 bourne, through Tissington, 10; 
 Bakewell.9; Arborlow, 4; Kenslow, 
 ; Youlgrmve, 0 ; languor, 5. 
 
 From Hnrtington it is better to 
 follow the road up the Staffordshire 
 side, crossing the Dove at Harring- 
 ton Mill. The way lends with occa- 
 sional dips along a plateau boldly 
 scarping to the E. U|>on the Dove, 
 and to the W. sloping down to tho 
 Manifold. The scenery, with tho 
 millstone-grit hills of Staffordshire on 
 tho W. rising up to the moorland 
 summit of Momdgo, and tho lime- 
 stone hills of Derbyshire on the K., is 
 very fine. About 2 m. from Hurting- 
 ton, on the plateau, is the tri-c-emlxv 
 s<>imd village of Shren. a little |xiri*h 
 wedged in between the enormous 
 othv of Alstom fu ld and Hartington. 
 The f%.. rebuilt early in tho nnwnt 
 centy. in the con ven Uric stvle, was 
 recast by Mr. Ilcswlovtl-llope in 
 1R.V2, the original stnicture serving 
 as nave, while a rlmnerl has Io n 
 luldcd with a stnn**-nbU d reef copied 
 from the nib- cha|Hds of Scarbnrriugh 
 ch. The fittings nre Uu«o which 
 **bx»l in Margaret Strevt (*ha|« 1. I />n- 
 don, prior to its d» uvdilion to mako 
 way for All Saint* ch. A pretty |«tr- 
 sr*nago by ItmlUwtUld ad run*. from 
 the summit of 81 icon hill, a little to 
 the X W..a I* tmliful panoramic view 
 of the country is to hi ••Maimd. On 
 the X., in Ik rbyshire, i* High Wheel- 
 doll, a hill which, under certain 
 
195 
 
 Route Qk.—Uttoxeter to Macclesfield . 
 
 aspects, looks like a regular pyramid. 
 The traveller may enter Derbyshire 
 under this hill at the little hamlet of 
 Crowdecote, but we would advise 
 him rather to push on to Longnor , 
 3 m. N.W. of Sheen, on the plateau 
 between the Dove and the Manifold 
 (at which point the valley bends 
 considerably to the W.), from which 
 by a steep descent he will cross 
 the Dove at Glutton Bridge, and 
 enter the striking pass of Glutton 
 Dale, near the village of Earl’s (or 
 Church ) Sterndale. The scenery 
 above Glutton Bridge towards Axe 
 Edge is fine, including in particular 
 the rocky height of Park Hill, and 
 the still loftier one of Chrome Tor, 
 veritable mountains in miniature. 
 The labour of the ascent of Chrome 
 Tor is amply repaid by the beauty 
 of the view from the summit. It is 
 best made from a meadow adjacent 
 to the farmhouse of Dowel. A short 
 stiff climb places the walker upon 
 tbe sharp, serrated hog’s-back, from 
 which the hill slopes on stone but- 
 tresses to the W. and a steep grass 
 bank to the E. He should notice a 
 curious natural arch in the limestone 
 of the topmost ridge. The huge 
 mass of Axe Edge bounds the view 
 to N., over the stony line of hills 
 called the Frith. To S. Park Hill 
 lies low beneath, and beyond it the 
 panorama of the Dove and Manifold 
 valleys spreads out. The adjacent 
 hill (of gritstone) to W. is Hollins, 
 famous for a whimsical panic in 
 1806, which drove the inhabitants of 
 the district to encamp upon its sum- 
 mit for three weeks, under the con- 
 viction that there they would be 
 safest from the invading hosts of 
 Bonaparte. At the head of the 
 narrow glen to the E. running up 
 from Dowel is a deep orifice in the 
 ground resembling the once famous 
 Eldon Hole. 
 
 On the eminence of Hitter Hill , 
 near the village of Earl’s Stern- 
 dale, a large barrow was opened in 
 1862, when several skeletons and 
 
 funeral urns were discovered ; while 
 in Hindlow were found more skele- 
 tons, with Saxon implements and 
 ornaments. From Earl’s Sterndale it 
 is 5 m. to Buxton (Bte. 7). 
 
 BOUTE 34. 
 
 UTTOXETER TO MACCLESFIELD, BY 
 
 ALTON TOWERS AND LEEK 
 
 [CHEADLE]. 
 
 N. STAFFORDSHIRE RLY. 32 m. 
 
 For the first few miles the rly. fol- 
 lows the course of the Dove, passing 
 rt. (in Derbyshire) Doveridge village 
 and Hall, the seat of Lord Waterpark, 
 and, a little further on, Crakemarsh 
 Hall (Lady Sheppard) (Rte. 33). 
 
 4 m. Rocester Junct. Stat. Hence 
 a branch goes off on E. to Ashbourne 
 (Rte. 33). Just before reaching the 
 stat. Woodseat (0. M. Campbell, 
 Esq.) is seen on W., and in the space 
 between the two lines, Barrow Hill 
 (Capt. Dawson) and Dove Leys (Sir 
 Thos. P. Hey wood). Rocester, which 
 was a Roman station, had a house of 
 Black Canons founded by Richard 
 Bacon about 1146, some foundations 
 of which remain in a field S. of the 
 ch. The ch. was almost rebuilt, and 
 a spire added, in 1872 ; in the ch.- 
 yard is the shaft of a cross, with 
 interlaced work, and 3 sculptured 
 sepulchral slabs. 
 
 1 \ m. N. is Denstone t where a very 
 beautiful ch. has been built by Sir 
 Percival Heywood from designs by 
 Street; it has painted windows, and 
 is profusely ornamented with Derby- 
 k 2 
 
196 
 
 Route 34. — Uttoxeter to Macclesfield . 
 
 shire marble. Near the ch. is St. 
 Chad's College , for middle-class edu- 
 cation in connection with St. Nicholas’ 
 College, Lancing, on a site given by 
 Sir Percival Heywood. The ground- 
 plan of the building is in the shape 
 of the letter H ; architects, Slater 
 and Carpenter. Centrally seated as 
 this institution is for the great 
 towns of the Black Country, the 
 Potteries, I^ncashire, and Birming- 
 ham, the site is admirably/jhosen. 
 
 2 m. W. of Rocester is Croxden, 
 which contained a famous Abbey, 
 founded for Cistercians by Bertram 
 deVerdon in 1176; his widow Roesia 
 was the foundress of Grace Dieu, in 
 Chamwood (Rte. 23). In it are buried 
 a number of the descendants of that 
 family, together with the heart of 
 King John, whose physician was 
 Abbot of Croxden. His name was 
 Thomas Shepesheved, and his Chro- 
 nicle is extant in the British Museum. 
 
 The remains of the abbey, which 
 are incorporated with the farm-build- 
 ings of Mr. Carrington, a miller, are 
 of considerable extent. They con- 
 sist principally of the ivy-clad W. 
 front, lighted by 3 lofty E. Eng. 
 windows deeply splayed. The W. 
 door is a very fine example, and is 
 deeply recessed. The S. wall of 
 the nave still stands, as also the 
 8. transept lighted by E. Eng. win- 
 dows, and containing a round- 
 headed doorway and some piers with 
 lain capitals. Tliis doorway pro- 
 ably led into a chapel, now used as 
 a carthouse. To the 8. of this tran- 
 sept are the walls of the monastir 
 buildings, of which the great hall 
 and the refectory are the best pre- 
 served, and offer some beautiful 
 details. Several stone coffins, and 
 an effigy (probably of one of the 
 Verdons), will be noticed. The 
 situation of the abbey is delightful, 
 and the walk from it to Alton or 
 Rocester (each about 2 m. distant) 
 aljounds with varied country' scenery. 
 Croxden ch. is a curious little single- 
 aisled building, with the W. window 
 
 blocked up, and its place occupied 
 by 2 thick buttresses. 
 
 The line now proceeds up the 
 valley of the Cliurnet, which joins 
 the Dove 1 m. below Rocester, and 
 presently enters the defiles of a 
 broken and romantic district, which 
 extends several miles in a N.-W. 
 direction, and has on E. the Moor- 
 lands ( post ). 
 
 7J m. Alton (Stat). The stat. 
 occupies a most picturesque position 
 in a valley, on one side of which 
 rises a lofty cliff crowned by a 
 modern nunnery and some slight 
 remains of the old castle of Alton 
 {post), and on the other the very 
 striking modem pile styled Alton 
 Towers. The village, some distance 
 up the hill, W., has a good inn, the 
 Shrewsbury Arms, where post-horses 
 may be had, and 2 or 3 other houses 
 of a more modest class. 
 
 The Alton estate was an ancient 
 property of the Talbot family, and 
 their lands were entailed by the 
 famous Duke of Shrewsbury, who 
 obtained an Act for the purpose at 
 the beginning of the 18th centy. 
 Lower Hey thorp, Oxfordshire (See 
 Handbook for Oxford ), was their 
 ordinary residence, till the attention 
 of Charles, 15th Earl of Shrewsbury 
 (from 1787 to 1827), was directed to 
 this beautiful spot. He erected a 
 moderate house, and turned his ener- 
 gies to landscape-gardening, com- 
 mencing in 1814. His nephew and 
 successor John, u the good Earl,” 
 while improving the gardens, spe- 
 cially devoted himself to architec- 
 ture, and took the house in hand* 
 converting it into a vast, dreamy, 
 ill-connected series of galleries and 
 to were— picturesque at a distance, 
 uncomfortable to inhabit — and 
 thoroughly incorrect in stylo and 
 detail. The name Alton Towers was 
 his invention. Later in his life, 
 and after lie had become intimate 
 with Pugin, he began remodelling 
 the building on sounder principles. 
 Unhappily the deaths of both archi- 
 
. 'Route 34 . — Alton Towers. 
 
 197 
 
 tect and owner have left the noble 
 pile unfinished. Pugin when he 
 ceased work was engaged in fitting- 
 up and decorating the bed-chambers. 
 Earl John died in 1856, leaving no 
 issue, and on the death of his successor 
 Earl Bertram, shortly after his ma- 
 jority, the senior line of the Talbots 
 failed, and the title and estates were 
 claimed by the late Earl Talbot of 
 Ingestre, who established his right 
 to the earldom in 1858, and was 
 in 1860 adjudged in the Court of 
 Exchequer to be the owner of Alton 
 and the remaining entailed estates. 
 
 From motives of convenience, ap- 
 proach to Alton Towers is usually 
 made from the S., when a castellated 
 gateway will be seen at a short dis- 
 tance E. of the stat., but by far the 
 most striking view is obtained from 
 the opposite quarter (or from the 
 stat. at Oakamoor, post), where, from 
 the abundance of bare rock, and the 
 abruptness of the tree-clad banks, 
 the scenery is almost of mountainous 
 character. In fact, Alton Towers 
 stands on the southern extremity of 
 those high lands which, commencing 
 in Staffordshire and Derbyshire, 
 culminate, as far as England is con- 
 cerned, at the Lakes. The house 
 is built on an elevated plateau 
 near the valley of the Churnet, 
 up which the rly. runs, and at 
 the head of a subsidiary valley in 
 which the famous flower-garden is 
 situated. In front is a sheet of 
 water, and beyond this the stables, 
 poor in themselves, but masked by 
 an imposing screen wall of ba- 
 ronial architecture, Alton Towers 
 is a picturesque building, but there 
 is a great want of composition in 
 it. Its towers do not combine into 
 a whole, and thus do not produce 
 the impression of its real extent. 
 The grand entrance is through a 
 lofty tower, approached by a flight 
 of steps guarded by the family sup- 
 porters, two tall rampant Talbot dogs, 
 each holding a gilt banner, with 
 the motto, “ Prest d’acoomplir. ” 
 
 In the days of Earl John a blind 
 Welsh harper was seated in the 
 vestibule to maintain the baro- 
 nial illusion. Crossing beneath a 
 narrow tower, open to the roof, we 
 come to the Armoury, a long, narrow 
 gallery, once containing a valuable 
 collection of arms, 50 suits being 
 ranged round the walls, with weapons 
 of war and the chase. Under the 
 oak roof, in the Tudor style, hang 
 numerous banners, including that of 
 Ireland, which is borne before the 
 Earl, as hereditary high steward. At 
 the end, a glazed screen formed of 
 spears and halberts leads into a 
 continuation called the Picture Gal- 
 lery, whose contents were sold and 
 dispersed on the death of Earl 
 Bertram, the last Roman Catholic 
 Lord Shrewsbury. 
 
 Beyond these two galleries is the 
 Octagon, a spacious apartment, in 
 imitation of the chapter-house of a 
 cathedral. With better details it 
 would be a fine feature, but unfor- 
 tunately the Gothic is “ Strawberry 
 Hill,” and the imitation groining of 
 the roof is both of plaster and of 
 a depressed and ungraceful outline. 
 The lancet windows are filled with 
 portraits of bishops and archbishops 
 of the Talbot family in stained glass. 
 To this, 4th in order of the apart- 
 ments, succeeds the Talbot Gallery, 
 decorated by Pugin ; the upper part 
 of the wall is divided into compart- 
 ments filled with shields bearing the 
 quarterings of the Talbots, and 
 showing their descent from the 
 Conqueror. 
 
 The Conservatory, which forms 
 the entrance to the private apart- 
 ments, branches from the Octagon 
 to the right. The iron framework 
 is partially Gothic in form. In 
 addition to rare and beautiful plants, 
 trees, and flowers, filling the air with 
 their fragrance, through the win- 
 dows a view is gained of the little 
 recherche flower-garden of the lady 
 of the castle, encircled by its build- 
 ings. 
 
198 
 
 Route 34 . — Uttoxeier to Macclesfield . 
 
 Next comes the Transept Gallery, 
 so called because it runs across the 
 suite of rooms. The corridors, pa- 
 nelled with black oak, once con- 
 tained a museum of antiquities. 
 
 The Chapel, in the Tudor style, 
 was one of the early rooms, but 
 taken in hand by Pugin as far as 
 the decoration of the altar went. 
 The reredos, which is highly coloured 
 and gilt, contains statues of St. 
 Augustine, St. Thomas of Canter- 
 bury, Edward the Confessor, and St. 
 Chad, first Bishop of Lichfield. Since 
 the accession of the present owner 
 it has been devoted to the service of 
 the Church of England. 
 
 The Great Dining Hall, rebuilt 
 by Pugin on the site of the previous 
 dining-room, is a really beautiful 
 specimen of a baronial hall in Per- 
 pendicular architecture, with open 
 oaken roof. 
 
 The Gardens , formed out of a hare 
 rocky glen, the sides of which are 
 boldly planted, on which Earl John 
 lavished his attention, are alike re- 
 markable for their natural beauty, 
 and the questionable taste of many 
 of the artificial decorations. A small 
 Gothic temple incloses a bust of 
 Earl John, with the inscription, 
 “ He made the desert smile.’* 
 
 The grounds and woodlands are 
 very grand, while from the abun- 
 dance of conifers and rhododendra 
 they are full of verdure even in 
 winter, and the trees, though none 
 of them are old, have attained a satis- 
 factory growth. On a projecting 
 knoll of sandstone rises a Gothic 
 tower, about 90 ft. high, which com- 
 mands a view extending to the 
 Welsh border, though, strangely 
 enough, it is not placed on the high- 
 est point of the estate. That is 
 occupied by a large reservoir, which 
 abounds in fish, and also supplies 
 the fountains with water. These 
 are whimsical in their construction : 
 the War fountain is so named from 
 the numerous jets crossing each 
 other like spears; the Screw fountain 
 
 is a short pillar with deeply-grooved 
 sides, in which the water flashes 
 like bands of silver; and the Chinese 
 fountain, where a jet of w T ater streams 
 like a flag from the gilt pinnacle of 
 a pagoda. 
 
 The house is very seldom shown, 
 but the gardens and grounds are 
 open to the public on Monday, 
 Tuesday, and Saturday in summer, 
 and are visited by excursionists in 
 thousands ; small pleasure parties 
 are admitted on Friday. 
 
 Across the narrow* valley of the 
 Chumet (up wdiich the rail winds) 
 is the village of Alton, with some 
 slight remains of its old Castle, 
 commanding the junction of Alton 
 Glen with the Yale of Churnet. It 
 was a stronghold of the De Ver- 
 dons and Furnivals, ancestors of 
 the Talbots. Close by stands the 
 pretty R. C. chapel of St. John by 
 Pugin, but the chief feature is the 
 pile by the same architect, half cas- 
 tellated, half ecclesiastical in aspect, 
 overhanging the rock, w*ith its lofty 
 apsidal chapel, like some castle of 
 Rhineland. It was intended as an 
 asylum for aged priests, but is now 
 a convent, occupied by the Sisters 
 of Mercy. In the chapel and clois- 
 ters are monuments and brasses to 
 the last R. C. Earls of Shrewsbury; 
 Charles (d. 1827), John (d. 1852) and 
 his countess, and Bertram (d. 1856). 
 
 Alton ch., originally Norm., has 
 been restored; it retains a good E. 
 E. doorway at the W. end. 
 
 From Alton Stat. the line con- 
 tinues through the same broken anil 
 romantic valley to 
 
 9 m. Oakamoor (Stat.). This is a 
 hamlet of Cheadle, with a modern 
 ch. and extensive brass and copper 
 works. 3 m. S. W. is Cheadle, the 
 road lying through a pleasantly- 
 wooded country. 
 
 [Cheadle (Inns: Whentsheaf ; 
 Royal Oak) is a small markebtown of 
 about 3000 Inhab., who are employed 
 either in the tape or silk mills, or in 
 the collieries. The town lies in a 
 
Boute 34 . — Froghall — Cheddleton. 199 
 
 hollow, surrounded by a belt of high 
 land, which was an open moor half 
 a century ago, but has now been 
 brought into cultivation. The ch., 
 which stands on high ground, was 
 rebuilt about 1840 in Perp. style ; it 
 contains some stained glass, by 
 Wailes, and the chancel is orna- 
 mented hy good oak carving, the 
 production of a local workman. 
 Put by far the most noticeable thing 
 in Cheadle is the R. C. ch. of St 
 Giles, a rich Dec. ch. of red 
 sandstone by Pugin , built chiefly 
 at the expense of John Earl of 
 Shrewsbury in 1847. It consists of 
 nave with aisles, chancel, chapels, 
 and sacristy, and a very lofty and 
 graceful spire, which, although the 
 ch. stands in a low situation, forms 
 a conspicuous feature in the land- 
 scape for miles. The interior con- 
 tains some beautiful stained glass, 
 and is elaborately decorated. Notice 
 the triptych altarpiece of oak in the 
 Lady Chapel, carved by Flemish 
 artists, and representing the Passion ; 
 the chancel arch painted by Hauser 
 of Rome, subject, the Last Judgment ; 
 the elaborate brass screen in front of 
 the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament; 
 the reredos and sedilia; the great 
 E. window representing the tree of 
 Jesse ; and the W. door, each leaf of 
 which displays the lion rampant of 
 the Talbots in brass, of large di- 
 mensions. The ch. stands in a spa- 
 cious inclosure, which also contains 
 a priest’s house, a guest-hall, and 
 schools; and the whole is said to 
 have cost 1 20,000Z. 
 
 1| m. E. is Hales Hall (Rev. E. 
 Whieldon), with a noble yew avenue. 
 The property once belonged to Sir 
 Matthew Hale, but the present house 
 was built by his grand-daughter. 
 Near is Woodhead Hall (W. S. Allen, 
 Esq.). 2^ m. S., at Upper Tean, the 
 old Hail, part timber, part brick 
 (1615), serves as the office and resi- 
 dence of the manager of Philips’ tape 
 mills ; the interior is worth seeing.] 
 
 12 m. Froghall (Stat.). This is a 
 
 busy place, from whence the rich 
 earthy haematite iron-ore found in 
 the neighbourhood is conveyed to 
 the North Staffordshire iron- works. 
 There is also a short branch rly. and 
 a canal by which lime is brought 
 from the quarries at Cauldon Low. 
 2| m. N. is Ipstones , most pictu- 
 resquely placed beneath Ipstones 
 Edge, where are extensive quarries 
 of gritstone. Belmont (H. Wilson, 
 Esq.) was built by one of the Sneyds, 
 who planted 10,000 larch trees in its 
 neighbourhood. On the W. side of 
 the line is Wetley , standing under a 
 bold ridge of limestone, called 
 Wetley Rocks. Wetley Abbey (M. 
 Bridges, Esq.) is a large modern 
 edifice in the Dec. style. Consall 
 Hall (J. D. Hargreaves, Esq.) stands 
 between Wetley Rocks and the rly., 
 and is bounded on E. by the Cauldon 
 Canal, which traverses a deep and 
 most picturesque glen on its way to 
 Cheddleton, Norton, &c. 
 
 16 m. Cheddleton (Stat.). The 
 Churnet valley here widens consi- 
 derably, and affords a good extent 
 of rich pasture. The Ch ., mainly 
 Dec., but with late Perp. tower, has 
 been restored by Scott; it has a 
 piscina and sedilia, and a modern 
 font of alabaster. There is a ch.-yard 
 cross, and a handsome lichgate. 
 Ashcombe Hall (Geo. Humphreys, 
 Esq.) stands in a fine deer park, on 
 the site of Bothams, an Elizabethan 
 house; and Westwood House (W. 
 Meakin, Esq.), the old seat of the 
 Powys family, is a modern stone 
 edifice. 
 
 [At 17 m. a branch line goes off 
 on W. to Stoke (Rte. 32). It follows 
 the course of the Cauldon Canal, 
 and has stats, at Endon (3| m.), Mil- 
 ton (7 m.), and Bucknall (10 m.). 
 E : ndon is very prettily situated, and 
 has a large number of good houses 
 occupied by the thriving business 
 men of the Pottery district ; the ch. 
 is in course of rebuilding (1874). 
 The Derbyshire custom of well- 
 dressing has been introduced, but 
 
200 
 
 Route 34 . — Uttoxeter to Macclesfield . 
 
 the festival is held on “ Restoration- 
 day ; ” it is accompanied by a church 
 service, and is well attended. Mil- 
 ton and Bucknall are in reality 
 suburbs of Burslem and Hanley.] 
 
 18J m. Leek {Inns: George; Red 
 Lion; Roebuck.) Leek stands on 
 high ground, near the head of the 
 valley of the Chumet, and is a busy 
 place (Pop. 10,000), where the tra- 
 veller will observe his approach to 
 the silk districts of Macclesfield 
 in the general engagement of the 
 population in the silk manufac- 
 ture, there being upwards of 50 
 silk-mills in the town and its vicinity. 
 Leek belonged to Algar of Mercia, 
 and was at the Conquest given to 
 Hugh Lupus, the 1st Earl of Chester. 
 Ralph, the 6th Earl, gave it to Dieu- 
 lacresse Abbey, which he founded in 
 the 13th centy. Button-making was 
 a trade very early practised here, 
 but it has been superseded by the 
 silk trade introduced by the French 
 Protestant refugees. 
 
 There are 2 churches at Leek. 
 St. Luke 8, on the Buxton road, is 
 a modern edifice, Dec., with a good 
 tower, copied from that of Brisling- 
 ton, Somerset (see Handbook for 
 Somerset). The old Ch., dedicated 
 to St. Edward the Confessor, stands 
 on high ground in the centre of the 
 town. A former ch. was burnt in 
 1297, and the present edifice must 
 have been built soon after, its main 
 features being Dec. ; it is remarkable 
 for its fine pinnacled tower, and for 
 the richness of its fittings, including 
 chancel screen, stalls, and painted 
 windows. In the N. aisle is a very 
 beautiful rose window. The chancel 
 has been rebuilt by Street , and a 
 reredos, pulpit, and font, all of 
 highly ornamental character, sup- 
 plied. There are but few monu- 
 ments, but the small brass of John 
 Ashenhurst (d. 1597) may be noticed; 
 it represents himself, his 4 wives 
 and 10 children. In the ch.-yard is 
 a monument to Win. Trafford of 
 Swithamley, who in the time of the 
 
 civil war refused to answer any 
 questions, or indeed, to give any 
 answer, but “Now thus,” whereupon 
 they set him ‘down as an idiot, and 
 left him. On the stone is depicted 
 a man threshing corn, and the 
 words “ Now thus,’* with the date 
 1697. There is also a remarkable 
 Danish pillar, about 10 ft. high, with 
 a carved capital and sides. The 
 view from the ch.-yard, looking N., 
 is exceedingly fine. To the W. is 
 the Cloud Hill (1190 ft.), behind 
 which, for a few days in summer- 
 time, the sun appears to set twice, 
 reappearing on its northern side after 
 sinking out of sight. 
 
 Lord Chancellor Macclesfield was 
 the son of an attorney at Leek, and 
 the grandson of General Venables, 
 the conqueror of Jamaica. He 
 founded the Grammar School, and 
 his descendant, the Earl of Maccles- 
 field, is now lord of the manor. 
 
 Westwood Hall ( J. Robinson, Esq.), 
 a short distance from Leek, occupies 
 the site of a picturesque gabled 
 house of the Trenthams, to which a 
 ghostly legend was attached. The 
 Lady Trentham of the time of 
 James I. being accidentally killed 
 in leaping a gate, was, by her un- 
 sympathizing husband, buried in the 
 cellar. Her ghost, resenting such 
 usage, haunted the Hall, and when 
 the neighbouring clergy were sum- 
 moned to exorcise her, she pleaded 
 so powerfully with them that they 
 ordered the body to bo removed to 
 the ch., after which the spirit was 
 seen no more. 
 
 About 1 m. N. of the town are 
 some remains of Dieulacresse Abbey , 
 founded in 1214 for the Cistercians 
 by Ralph de Blondeville, Earl of 
 Chester. He was a renowned Cru- 
 sader, and was also very liberal to 
 the monastic orders. The Chronicle 
 of Dieulacresse tells a wild legend, 
 how, after death, the evil one was 
 ba filed in keeping possession of his 
 soul by the great white mastiffs 
 (Molossi) of Dieulacresse and other 
 
•Route 34 . — Meerbroolc. — Upper Hulme. 201 
 
 abbeys bowling to such a pitch as 
 to disturb the very depths of hell 
 itself. At the suppression the abbey 
 was valued at 243 1. per annum. ' It 
 was granted by Edward VI. to Sir 
 Ralph Bagenal, when the whole was 
 pulled down, and the existing farm- 
 house was erected, but additions 
 have since been made, and portions 
 of sculptured stone worked up in a 
 gateway, with the date of 1667; 
 detached corbels also are to be seen 
 every here and there in the walls, 
 and a cowhouse has the upper part 
 of a handsome 14th-centy. window. 
 In another place is seen an incised 
 sepulchral slab, with a cross ragule 
 and a sword. 
 
 2 m. beyond Dieulacresseisthe vil- 
 lage of Meerbrook , where there is a 
 small ch. built e. 1562 by Sir Ralph 
 Bagenal, the grantee. The late in- 
 cumbent (Rev. Jas. Turner), who 
 died in 1864, his father, and his 
 grandfather, held the living for up- 
 wards of 120 years. The village 
 underlies the wild tract of the 
 Roaches, a moor with bold and pic- 
 turesque gritstone rocks, shooting 
 up into varied aiguilles. The most 
 conspicuous features are two parallel 
 serrated ridges (of which the least 
 elevated, but not the least grand, 
 overhangs the Buxton and Leek 
 road, from which it may in a few 
 minutes be mounted) and an isolated 
 hill standing out like an advance- 
 guard, called Hon-Cloud, or the Gun 
 (1000 ft.). The loftier ridge is 
 known as the Back Forest. On its 
 remote verge towards the N.E., ad- 
 jacent to Swithamley and to the 
 beautiful wooded glen of Gradbach, 
 is to be seen one of the most wonder- 
 ful sights in all this romantic region, 
 worthy to be classed with the seven 
 wonders of the Peak, viz. the rock 
 crevasse of Ludchurch. From the 
 moor nothing is seen but the tops 
 of a few scrubby trees forming an 
 irregular line, and the entrance has 
 to be closely looked for. It will be 
 found by following a footpath lead- 
 
 ing S. under a cluster of rocks called 
 Castle Cliffs. A flight of rough 
 steps will be seen, descending which 
 you find yourself in a chasm bounded 
 by perpendicular rock-walls rich with 
 the ferns and plants that nestle in 
 the clefts, of a width never exceeding 
 a few feet, and of a variable height 
 according to the levels of the foot- 
 way, but averaging 30 feet. The 
 whole length, reckoning the turns 
 and angles, must be nearly 300 
 yards. A flight of steps leads out 
 of the chasm on S., but the chasm 
 itself continues some distance further, 
 and ends in a cavern, in which a 
 subterranean stream is heard, but 
 cannot be reached. The Gradbach 
 glen joins at Quarnford that of the 
 Dane, of which the opposite bank is 
 in Cheshire. 
 
 [The high road from Leek to Bux- 
 ton (12 m.) passes near the S. foot of 
 the Roaches (leaving Meerbrook to 
 the W.), and thence over the very 
 wild and rough country on the bor- 
 ders of Stafford and Derby. 
 
 To the E. stretch the Moorlands, 
 with the heights of Morridge rising 
 to 1500 ft., and with the Black Mere, 
 of which Plot tells marvellous tales. 
 A small moorland inn, the Mermaid, 
 near this, stands midway between it 
 and the source of the Hamps, which 
 will be found not far from a farm 
 called the Lumb. Farther E. lies 
 Butterton Moor, above which rises 
 Ecton Hill ; to the S. is the ridge 
 of Weever (1142 ft.). Looking north- 
 ward, the open moors of Fawfield 
 and Heathy Lee are seen, with a 
 few scattered farmhouses and single 
 dwellings. To the W. the Roaches 
 occupy a considerable space, and 
 they are succeeded by Goldsitch 
 Moss, flanked by a tributary of the 
 Dane, and some remains of Maccles- 
 field Forest. Coal of poor quality is 
 found in the district. 
 
 On the high road, at 3 m. from 
 Leek, is Upper Hulme , where there 
 is a large flax-mill, and where a tri- 
 butary of the Churnet runs through 
 k 3 
 
202 
 
 Route 34 . — Uttoxeter to Macclesfield . 
 
 a most picturesque glen far below 
 the bridge. 
 
 At 7 m. is an inn which bears the 
 name of the Royal Cottage , from the 
 tradition that Charles I. once passed 
 a night there. On the verge of the 
 county is the village of Flash, with 
 an inn, called the Travellers’ Rest, 
 much visited from Buxton. Flash 
 is now a neat, quiet-looking little 
 place, with a small ch. ; but, like 
 the whole surrounding district, it 
 was formerly of evil repute, the 
 resort of coiners, and also gave its 
 name to the “ badgers,” or hawkers, 
 who “ squatted on the waste lands 
 and commons in the district, and 
 were notorious for their wild, half- 
 barbarous manners and brutal pas- 
 times. Tm veiling about from fair 
 to fair, and using a cant or slang 
 dialect, they became generally known 
 ns ‘Flash-men.’” — Smiles. Badgers’ 
 Croft, near Flash Bottom, preserves 
 the remembrance of their earlier 
 appellation. A good though steep 
 road lends down S.W. from Flash to 
 Quaruford and Gradbach, and forms 
 the easiest access from Buxton to 
 the wonders of Ludchurcli. On the 
 other side the steep byeway from 
 Flash to Longnor (Rte. 33) affords 
 fine prospects of the hills about the 
 heads of the Dove and Manifold. 
 For the remainder of the road to 
 Buxton (4 in.), see Rte. 7.]. 
 
 20J m. Rudyard (Stat.). This is 
 a hamlet, consisting only of a few 
 farmhouses, but it is a pleasant re- 
 sort, on account of the picturesquo 
 reservoir of 2 m. in length, called 
 Rudyard Lake , and made for the 
 purjose of supplying the Cauldon 
 Canal. Rudyard Hall (now a farm- 
 house) was the residence of Sir 
 Benjamin Rudyard, an eminent 
 member of the Long Parliament. 
 At a short distance is Horton , 
 where the ch. has been restored. It 
 contains some stained glass, and 
 monuments to the Crompton, Fowler, 
 and Wedgwood families. Part of 
 
 the reservoir is in this parish, the 
 banks steep and well fringed with 
 wood, and here is the Rudyard Lake 
 Hotel, and Cliff Park Hall (Miss 
 
 Bostock). 
 
 23J m. Rushton (Stat.). There 
 are 3 small townships known as the 
 Rushtons. At Rushton Spencer 
 (once a possession of the Despensers) 
 is a small ancient Ch. known as the 
 “chapel of the wilderness”; it is 
 almost wholly of wood, and was 
 built temp. Henry III. “ The situ- 
 ation of this humble but highly pic- 
 turesque little chapel is eminently 
 striking, perched as it is on the sum- 
 mit of a steep elevation apart from 
 the village, and screened by noble 
 old black firs and yew trees.” — 
 (Sleigh's History of Leek.) The date 
 1630 over the E. window probably 
 marks the time when some portions 
 of the wooden structure were replaced 
 by stone, but the very massive font 
 is believed to be coeval with the 
 original building. In the ch.-yard 
 is a gravestone with the singular 
 inscription, “ Thomas, son of Thomas 
 and Mary Meaykin, interred July 16, 
 1781, aged 21 years. As a man 
 falleth before wicked men, so fell I. 
 Bia davaros.” This has reference to 
 a tragic story of a youth who dared 
 to make love to his master’s daugh- 
 ter, and was supposed to have been 
 drugged and buried alive at Stone. 
 His friends had his coffin opened, 
 when the body was found on its face; 
 they then removed it to Rushton, 
 his native place, and erected the 
 above memorial. 
 
 The lino enters Cheshire soon after 
 quitting Rushton, and reaches at 
 
 32 m. Macclesfield (Stat.). See 
 Handbook for Cheshire. 
 
203 
 
 Bouie 35. — Stoke-on-Trent to Congleton. 
 
 ROUTE 35. 
 
 STOKE-ON-TRENT TO CONGLETON, 
 BY BIDDULPH. 
 
 N. STAFFORDSHIRE RLY. 14 m. 
 
 The line on leaving Stoke (Rte, 
 32) runs S. for some distance ; then, 
 sweeping round to the N.E., it at 
 2^ m. reaches Buchnall ( Stat. ), a 
 suburb of Hanley. At 4 m. the 
 branch to Leek is given off (Rte. 
 34), and at 5J m. we reach Ford 
 Green (Stat.), where are the great 
 ironworks of the Messrs. Heath. In 
 the immediate neighbourhood are 
 the populous places of Norton-in- 
 the-Moors, Broom Edge, Milton, and 
 Smallthorne, all engaged in either 
 the coal or the iron trade, and all 
 provided with churches and schools 
 of recent erection. The line ascends 
 the valley of the infant Trent, having 
 on E. the high ground of Norton, 
 and on W. the smoky district of 
 Tunstall, with its large Union 
 House. 
 
 At 7j m. is Black Bull (Stat.), 
 from which New Chapel, where 
 Brindley is buried, is about 1J m. 
 W. (Rte. 32). The ground now 
 becomes very broken and romantic 
 as the rly. runs under the eastern 
 base of the millstone-grit ridge of 
 Mow- Cop, or Congleton Edge, which 
 rises to a considerable height, and 
 constitutes the boundary between 
 Staffordshire and Cheshire. 
 
 10 m. Gillow Heath (Stat.). To 
 the E. are the townships of Bid- 
 dulph, Biddulph Moor, Knypersley, 
 Bradley Green, and Brindley Ford, 
 all except the first comparatively 
 recent places, and all seats of col- 
 lieries, quarries, and ironworks. 
 
 Biddulph is mentioned in Domes- 
 day, and it had a ch. at a very early 
 period; but the existing Ch. is mo- 
 dern Gothic. It contains stained glass 
 windows from Belgium, a richly 
 carved stone altar, and an altar- 
 tomb to the Bowvers of Knypersley, 
 also their pew in good carved wood- 
 work. The glass represents the Vir- 
 gin and Child, the Wise Men of the 
 East, Abraham offering Isaac, &c. 
 In the ch.-yard is a mortuary cross 
 of Dec. date. At its removal seven 
 incised slabs were found at its base- 
 ment. 
 
 Not far from the ch. is the noble 
 seat of Biddulph Grange (Robert 
 Heath, Esq.), formerly the residence 
 of the late Mr. Jas. Bateman, who, 
 some 30 years ago, created out of an 
 old farmhouse and a swampy moor 
 a series of the most perfect gardens 
 in England, celebrated alike for the 
 beauty and rarity of their contents, 
 and for the choice and ingenious 
 examples of landscape gardening, all 
 rendered the more surprising from 
 occurring in such a lofty and inhos- 
 pitable region. The gardens are 
 open free on the first Mondays in 
 June, July, August, and September ; 
 and by tickets, price 5s., to admit 5 
 people, every Friday throughout the 
 year. The tickets are obtained at 
 the village inn, and the money is 
 devoted to the Friendly Society. 
 “ By a happy rearrangement of the 
 surface of the ground, and its forma- 
 tion into an infinite variety of minia- 
 ture hills and dajes, nooks and 
 recesses, a considerable amount of 
 shelter and exposure, sunniness and 
 shade, dryness and moisture, has been 
 obtained in the most ingenious man- 
 ner. In fact, the leading idea which 
 seems to have pervaded the mind of 
 Mr. Bateman in the production of 
 such a marvellous diversity of sur- 
 face throughout the plan, has evi- 
 dently been the preparation of a 
 suitable and congenial home for 
 nearly all the hardy members of the 
 plant family which the curiosity of 
 
204 
 
 Route 35 . — Stoke-on-Trent to Congleton. 
 
 man has discovered and cultivated.” 
 A great feature in these gardens is 
 the exquisite taste with which group- 
 ings of shrilly such as Irish yews, 
 aucubas, tree - ivy, Ac., have l)ccu 
 contrived, and the individuality of 
 each fresh series to which the visitor 
 is introduced. 
 
 Among the many curiosities in 
 tiie horticultural way may be men- 
 tioned the Egyptian Court, charac- 
 terized by yew obelisks and pyra- 
 mids ; the Pin» turn, devoted to pines, 
 araucarias, and deodars ; the Ravine, 
 til le« i with ferns; the Arboretum, 
 partly paved with stones brought 
 from the Appian Way; the Welling- 
 tonia Avenue: the Obelisk Walk, 
 the gradients of which are so troahd 
 as to deceive the eve into the im- 
 pression that whnt is really a path 
 is an obelisk : the Chinese (Jnrden, 
 which is approached by two myste- 
 rious paths through tunnels. These 
 are as quaint as they arc interesting, 
 presenting the features of a lake 
 hemmed in by masses of rocks, which 
 are decorated with Chinese joss- 
 houses, temples, bridges, dragons, 
 and other Chinese monstrosities, 
 such os bulls and frogs, which startle 
 the visitor by their unusual and 
 unexpi-ctcd apparition. The pyrn- 
 csinths, juniper*, barberries, Ac., in 
 this garden are extraordinarily 
 fine. At the eastern end is the 
 " Stumpery,” which serves for a col- 
 hftion of (trccnland roots and trail- 
 ing plants. In fact, the whole of 
 th' jw uncqualftd ground* are cul- 
 tivated and ornamented in every |*ir- 
 ticlo — not an inch is lost or wostid, 
 and not a single opportunity is 
 missed of a beautiful vista, a quaint 
 decoration, or a surprise almost verg- 
 ing on the whsntional. The houae 
 is a long irregular Italian building, 
 facing the south, and contains a very 
 intoning geological gallery. Then* 
 am also an orangery. cam* Ilia and 
 rhododendron houses, the latter filial 
 with some of the most splendid spei- i 
 n.cns in England, such as It. Waniiia 
 
 and R. Nuttalia. Immediately in 
 front of the house are the cherry 
 orchard. Mr. Bateman's garden, and 
 what is called the I^ahlia Walk, a 
 splendid vista of colour when those 
 flowers are blooming, hut which is 
 so arranged that it may be alto- 
 gether avoided when they am out of 
 flower. The whole excites a feeling 
 of surprise ami admiration that cn- 
 durvs long after the visitor has 
 emerged again from this fairy-land 
 into the moorland and rough country 
 of North Staffordshire. 
 
 Adjoining the Grango are the 
 ruins of Diddulph Hall, a noble 
 specimen of Elizabethan manor- 
 house (date 1588), built by Francis 
 Biddulph, and destroyed in the time 
 of his grandson, who was a devoted 
 royalist. The siege took place in 
 1043, under Sir Wm. Brereton, the 
 garrison being commanded by his 
 nephew, Lord Brereton. But the 
 Hall was very diflicult to destroy, 
 so they sent to Stafford for a famous 
 cannon cnlhd “ Roaring Meg,” by 
 the help of which the siege was 
 successful. A modern house of the 
 same name occupies a port of tho 
 old site (Robert Bateman, Ksq.). 
 
 KnyjMrfilry Hall, which lies to the 
 S., ami was the old seat of tho Bate- 
 man family, wns dismantled on 
 account of its proximity to collieries 
 and works; hut is again occupied 
 (John Batenmn, E*«n.). Prior to 
 the Batemans it belonged to tho 
 Bowycrs, and before them to the 
 KnypomJeys, in the time of Henry 
 III. Sir John Bowycr was an nrtive 
 1'urlinmrntariuti. and Sir W. Hug- 
 dale record* in his Diary, that he 
 removed the Bowycr achievement* 
 from Biddulph rh. In the pnrish.of 
 Biddulph, in the opening l*’twren 
 Cloud and Woof Ixme, stood tho 
 ItriiUttnurg, now destroyed, a fine 
 early circle of 8 upright stones. 
 Biddulph Moor, on which the Trent 
 rise*, was formerly inhabited by the 
 Biddlemnor men,” a fierce, half- 
 J gipsy race, traditionally said to bo 
 
205 
 
 Eoute 36.— Stoke-on-Trent to Market Drayton . 
 
 descended from a Saracen, whom 
 one of the early lords of Biddulph 
 brought from the Holy Land, and 
 made bailiff of this wild spot. 
 
 About 2 m. beyond Biddulph the 
 line enters Cheshire, and we arrive 
 at 
 
 14 m. Congleton (Stat.). Inns: 
 Swan ; Bull. See Handbook for 
 Cheshire . 
 
 EOUTE 36. 
 
 STOKE ■ ON - TRENT TO MARKET 
 
 DRAYTON, BY NEWCASTLE-UNDER- 
 
 LYME. 
 
 N. STAFFORDSHIRE RLY. 17| m. 
 
 Leaving Stoke, the line passes the 
 suburb of Hartshill , where the new 
 ch., the R. C. convent, and the N. 
 Stafford Infirmary, are all buildings 
 of considerable architectural merit. 
 
 2 m. Newcastle-under-Lyme ( Stat.). 
 ( Inn , Castle.) The town (Pop. 
 15,000) stands on a hill by the Lyme 
 brook, but retains no trace of the 
 New Castle, built about 1180 by 
 Ranulph, Earl of Chester, from 
 whence it had its name. This was 
 founded in the place of a Saxon 
 stronghold at Chesterton, 2 m. N., 
 but . the town itself is of earlier 
 origin, as is shown by the Norm. W. 
 door of the ch. Newcastle received 
 a charter from Henry III. in 1235, 
 and has been possessed by Simon de 
 Montfort, John of Gaunt, and other 
 historic characters, but is not known 
 as the scene of any important event. 
 The waste lands around were inclosed 
 
 in 1816, and a part of them has been 
 laid out in public walks ; other im- 
 provements have since been effected, 
 but still the appearance of the place 
 is quaint and old fashioned, without 
 possessing any object of striking in- 
 terest. The tower of the Ch. is lofty 
 and well-proportioned. Norm, in the 
 lower part and Dec. above, and 
 having a clock with chimes. The 
 body of the ch., which was rebuilt 
 in 1720, is now (1874) being replaced 
 by a structure more in agreement 
 with the tower. 
 
 Newcastle was once a place of 
 great business in hat-making, but it 
 is now more occupied with brewing, 
 sugar - refining, and paper-making ; 
 there are also ironworks and col- 
 lieries in the neighbourhood. It 
 was the birthplace of Sir Ralph 
 Bagenal, a courtier and soldier of the 
 time of Henry VIII. and the three 
 succeeding reigns. Of him it is re- 
 corded that he alone, of all the 
 Parliament, refused to be reconciled 
 to Rome by Cardinal Pole, saying 
 that he was sworn to the contrary to 
 his old master. Harrison the regi- 
 cide was also a native of the town, 
 and Serjeant Bradshaw was its re- 
 corder. 
 
 5 m. Silverdale (Stat.), a colliery 
 village, with a handsome modern 
 ch. with tower and spire. The geo- 
 logist will find it to his account to 
 examine the shale-heaps from the 
 pits at Silverdale, which have yielded 
 an extraordinary number of coal 
 fishes. They have been figured by 
 Sir Philip Egerton. There are also 
 very extensive ironworks. From 
 Silverdale a line of railway goes off 
 on N. to Alsager (see Handbook for 
 Cheshire'). 
 
 6| m. Keele (Stat.). Here also is 
 a handsome new ch., Dec., which 
 has replaced the old structure. 
 Keele Hall (Rev. W. Sneyd) has 
 been the seat of the family of 
 Sneyd from the time of Edward III. 
 
206 
 
 Route 36 . — Stolce-on-Trent to Market Drayton . 
 
 The picturesque gabled structure, 
 built by Ralph Sneyd in the 16th 
 centy., having fallen into decay, his 
 namesake, the late owner, re-erected 
 it from Mr. Salvin’s designs (1855). 
 The new house, of red sandstone like 
 the older one, follows its general 
 features, but is much enlarged and 
 enriched, and is one of the most suc- 
 cessful of modern-antique mansions, 
 while it is full of costly works of 
 virtu. The gardens and grounds are 
 very beautiful, command fine views, 
 and have been much improved by 
 the present proprietor. The hem- 
 lock spruce flourishes, and there is 
 
 an avenue of deodars ; but the chief 
 lion is a clipped liolly-hedge, 100 
 years old, measuring 612 ft. in length, 
 23 in height, and 24 thick at the 
 base, and tapering upwards. There 
 are other notable holly-hedges, but 
 none so large. 
 
 9 m. Madeley Boad (Slat.). For 
 the village of Madeley, which lies 1 
 m. N., see lite. 26. 
 
 At 11 m. the line passes into 
 Shropshire. 
 
 11 -i m. Pipe Gate (Stat.). 
 
 14 J m. Norton-in- Hales (Stat.). 
 
 17s m. Market Drayton (Stat.). 
 See Handbook for Shropshire . 
 
( .207 ) 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 ABBOT’S BROMLEY. 
 
 Abbot’s Bromley, 168. 
 Acton Trussell, 140. 
 Albion, 136. 
 
 Albrighton, 135. 
 Alderwasley, 24- 
 Aldridge, 151. 
 
 Alfreton, 14. 
 
 Allestree, 15. 
 
 Alrewas, 159. 
 
 Alsop, 189. 
 
 Alstonefield, 192. 
 
 Alton, 196. 
 
 Alton Towers, 196. 
 
 Amber River, 18, 19, 
 Ambergate Junction, 18. 
 Anchor Church, 3. 
 
 Andie Stone, 29. 
 
 Annesley Hall, 78, 82. 
 Antiquities, xxxiv. 
 Apewood Castle, 150. 
 Aqualate, 173. 
 
 Arborlow, 29, 194. 
 Armitage, 170. 
 
 Arnsby, 124. 
 
 Asfordby, 112. 
 
 Ashbourne, 187. 
 Ashby-de-la-Zouch, 116. 
 Ashcombe Hall, 199. 
 Ashford, 40. 
 
 Ashley, 143. 
 
 A shop River, 54. 
 Ashopton, 54. 
 
 Ashover, 20. 
 
 Ashwood Dale, 41. 
 Aslacton, 75. 
 
 Aston Hall, 137. 
 
 Aston Junction, 137. 
 Attenborough, 62. 
 
 Audley, 145. 
 
 Audley’s Cross, 143. 
 
 Ault Hucknall, 85. 
 Averham, 71. 
 
 Axe Edge, 46, 195. 
 Aylestone, 103. 
 
 B. 
 
 Bach Tor, 49. 
 Back Forest, 201. 
 
 BIDDULPH. 
 
 Badgers’ Croft, 202. 
 
 Bagot’s Park, 169. 
 
 Bagshaw’s Cave, 53. 
 
 Bag worth, 116. 
 
 Bake well, 30. 
 
 Bamford, 54. 
 
 Bardon Hill, 116. 
 
 Barlaston, 176. 
 
 Barlborough, 22. 
 
 Barmoor Clough, 47. 
 
 Barmote Courts, 17. 
 
 Barnby Moor, 97. 
 
 Barr Beacon, 137. 
 
 Barrow-on- Soar, 126. 
 Barrows, xxxiv. 
 
 Barton in Fabis, 62. 
 Barton-under-Need wood, 163. 
 Basford, 78, 145. 
 
 Baslow, 21, 58. 
 
 Baswich, 172. 
 
 Batham Road, 55. 
 
 Beacon Hill, 72, 98, 126. 
 Beauchief Abbey, 23. 
 Beaudesert, 170. 
 
 Beaumanoir, 125. 
 
 Beaumond Cross, 72. 
 Beaumont Lees, 109. 
 
 Beau vale Abbey, 78. 
 
 Bee Low, 29. 
 
 Beely, 29. 
 
 Beesthorpe, 93. 
 
 Beeston, 63. 
 
 Belgrave, 124, 125. 
 
 Bellamour Hall, 17 1. 
 Belmont, 199. 
 
 Belper, 18. 
 
 Belton, 120. 
 
 Belvoir, 75. 
 
 Bentley Brook, 188. 
 
 Bentley Hall, 138. 
 
 Benty Grange, 189. 
 
 Beresford Dale, 193. 
 Beresford Hall, 193. 
 
 Berry Hill, 144. 
 
 Berth, the, 144. 
 
 Bescot Hall, 138. 
 
 Bescot Junction, 138. 
 
 Betley, 144. 
 
 Biddulph, 203. 
 
 BRADSHAW HALL. 
 
 Biddulph Grange, 203. 
 Biddulph Hall, 204. 
 Biddulph Moor, 203, 204. 
 Biggin, 189. 
 
 Bilhaugh, 90. 
 
 Billesdon, 114] 
 
 Bilston, 13 1. 
 
 Bingham, 74. 
 
 Birchhills, 166. 
 
 Bird’s Nest, 123. 
 Birkland Forest, 90. 
 Birstall, 125. 
 
 Blaby, 112. 
 
 Black Bull, 203. 
 Blacklands, 147. 
 
 Black Mere, 201. 
 
 Black Rocks, the, 25. 
 Blake Low, 41. 
 
 Blaston, 102. 
 
 Bleasby, 70. 
 
 Blithbury, 168. 
 
 Blithfield, 169. 
 
 Blore, 190. 
 
 Blore Heath, 143. 
 Bloxwich, 166. 
 
 Blue John Mine, 52. 
 Blurton, 177. 
 
 Blymhill, 140. 
 
 Blyth, 99. 
 
 Blyth Bridge, 182. 
 Bobbing ton, 147. 
 Bobbin-net, xxix. 
 Bolsover, 85. 
 
 Bonsall Dale, 27. 
 
 Booth’s Edge, 56. 
 Borough Holes, 191. 
 Borrowash, 61. 
 Borrowcop Hill, 159. 
 Bosworth Field, no. 
 Bothams, 199. 
 
 Bottesford, 75. 
 
 Boultham, 74. 
 
 Bow Cross, 33. 
 Bracebridge, 73. 
 
 Bradford River, 30, 40. 
 Bradgate, 122. 
 
 Bradley, 131. 
 
 Bradley Green, 203. 
 Bradley Hall, 148. 
 Bradshaw Hall, 48. 
 
208 
 
 INDEX, 
 
 BRAMCOTE. 
 
 Bramcote, ij. 
 
 Brampton, 21. 
 
 Bramshall, 182. 
 
 Brand, the, 125. 
 
 Bread sail, 15. 
 
 Breaston, 62. 
 
 Breedon, 11. 
 
 Breedon Bulwarks, 11. 
 Brent’s Hill, 62. 
 
 Bretby, 118. 
 
 Brettell I^ane, 148. 
 
 B re wood. 1 ?a 
 Brewood Hall. IJ9. 
 
 Bride* tone®, 204. 
 
 Bridgeford, 7a 
 Brierloy Hitt* 148. 
 
 Brindley Ford. 20J. 
 
 Bromley Hall, 14;. 
 Brookhill Hall* 14. 
 Brooksbv, 112. 
 
 Broome, 1 46. 
 
 Broom Edge, 20J. 
 
 Brough, 55, 7?. 
 
 Broughton, 14?. 
 
 Broughton Astley, 124. 
 Brought n Hall, 14J. 
 Brownhills. 142. 
 
 Brushfield Hough, 40. 
 Buckminster, 115. 
 
 Bucknall, 200, 20J. 
 
 Budby, 94. 
 
 Bulwell* 78. 
 
 Bunker’s Hill, jo. 
 
 Bunster, 19a 
 Burbage, 46. 
 
 Burrow, 114. 
 
 Burslem, 179. 
 
 Burton Hall, 127. 
 
 Burton Joyce, 7a 
 Burton I^azars, 1 14. 
 
 Burton Overy, ioj. 
 Burton-on- Trent, 164. 
 
 Bury Bank. 176. 
 
 Burr King. 141. 
 
 Bnsiibury, 1 j8. 
 
 Butterley Hall, 16. 
 
 Butterley Irr.n Company, 16. 
 Butterton Hall. 144. 
 Bulierton Moor, 201. 
 Buxton* 4}. 
 
 Byrcbovcr, 29. 
 
 C. 
 
 Cake* of Bread, 44. 
 1 \ . 1 : . 
 
 Calllngwood. 168. 
 Calver. 58. 
 Calverton, 70. 
 Calwkh. 187. 
 
 Camp Hill. 144. 
 Cannock, 1661 
 Canwell 162. 
 Carbarton, 95. 
 
 COLWICH. 
 
 Cardiff Tor, 29. 
 
 Carcolston, 75. 
 Carleton-Curlieu, 102. 
 
 Carl’s Wark, 46. 
 
 Carlton, 70, 96, 98. 
 Castlechurch, 142. 
 
 Castle Cliffs, 2cf. 
 
 Castle IXmington, 12. 
 
 Castle Hill, 21. 
 
 Castle Old Fort, 152. 
 Castleton, 49. 
 
 Cat and Fiddle Inn, 46. 
 Cauldon Canal, 199. 
 
 Cuuldon Low, 199. 
 
 Caunton, 9*. 
 
 Cavedale, 5?. 
 
 Caverswall, 182. 
 
 Chaddesden, 60. 
 Cliapel-en-le-Fritb, 47. 
 Charlesworth, 59. 
 
 Charley Hall, 121. 
 
 Cham wood Forest, xvii., 119. 
 Chartley, 174. 
 
 Chase Town, 152. 
 
 Chat8worth, jj. 
 
 Cheadle, 198. 
 
 Chebsey, 142. 
 
 Cbeckley, 182. 
 
 Cheddleton, 199. 
 
 Chee Tor, 42, 46. 
 
 Chellaston, 10. 
 
 Chelmorton, 41. 
 
 Chesterfield, 20. 159. 
 Chillington Hall, ijf. 
 
 Chilwell* 62. 
 
 Chlnley Chnm, 47, 48. 
 
 Chrome Tor, 195. 
 
 Chunal, 59. 
 
 Church Bridge, 166. ’ 
 
 Church Gresley, 118. 
 
 Church Mayfield, 187. 
 
 Church Hock, 192. 
 
 Church Sremdale, 189. 
 Claybrooke, 12?. 
 
 Clay Cross Junction, 14, 20. 
 Clayworth, 97. 
 
 Clent, 146. 
 
 Clifton, 6), 187. 
 i lifton Campville, 162. 
 
 Clifton Hall. 6j, 162. 
 
 Clipstone. 90. 
 
 Cloud Hill. 200, 204. 
 
 1 . 22. 
 
 Clndd'a Oak, 89. 
 
 Cluml^r Park. 9?. 
 
 Coal-fiekls* xii, xx, xxvlii, xxx, 
 xxxli. 
 
 Coalville, it6. 
 
 Obbridgr. 179. 
 
 Codnor Park, ij. 
 
 0*daall. 114. 
 
 Coleorton, 119 
 Collingham. 7;. 
 
 Colton, 17 1 
 
 Colwich, 171. 
 
 DI8HLEY GRANGE. 
 
 Colwlck Hall* 70. 
 
 Comb’s Moss, 46. 
 
 Combcrford Hall, 162. 
 Communications, xxiii. 
 Coneygree, 7 j. 
 
 Congleton, 20?. 
 
 Coplow, the, 1 14. 
 
 Copt Oak, 1 2 1. 
 
 Cortlingstock, or Costock* 128. 
 Countesthorpe, 124. 
 
 Ooxbench* 15. 
 
 Coxe's Rough, 1 j6. 
 
 Coxmoor, 82. 
 
 Cradley, 146. 
 
 Crake marsh, 186, 195. 
 
 Cranoe, ioj. 
 
 Cres8hrook Dale, 41. 
 
 Cress well, 182. 
 
 Cress we 11 Crags, 22. 
 
 Crewe, 145. 
 
 Crich Hill, 24. 
 
 Cromford, 24. 25. 
 
 Cromford Moor, 25. 
 
 Cromford Sough, 17, 25. 
 Cromwell, 96. 
 
 Cronkstone Hill, 189. 
 Crowdecote, 195. 
 
 Croxall, 162. 
 
 Croxden Abbey, 196. 
 
 Croxton 14?. 
 
 Croxton Kyriel, 115. 
 
 Croxton Park. 114. 
 
 Cucklet Church, 57. 
 
 Cuckney, 91. 
 
 Cuckoo Bush, 6 ). 
 
 D. 
 
 Dadllngton, no. 
 Dalbury, ). 
 
 Dale Abbey, 60. 
 
 Danes’ Balk, 22. 
 Darlaston, 1 j8. 
 
 Darley, 1 5. 28. 
 
 I >arley I >ale* 28. 
 
 Darnall. 2}. 
 
 Dean Hall, 9). 
 Decnflclds, I }(). 
 
 Denbey, 15. 
 
 Deostone, 194. 
 
 Ik'pth o’ Lumb, 18. 
 Dkkby* 4. 
 
 Ik?rwent Chapel, 54. 
 Derwent Hall* 44. 
 IVrwrnl Klver, $4. 
 Ilford, 116. 
 
 I •etblck. 27. 
 
 I>**ven River, xr, 71. 
 Diamond Hilt. 44. 
 Dickon’s Nook. in. 
 Ihdo’t Cave, 26. 
 Dirulacrr«*e A bltey. 20a 
 I Anting Viaduct. 59. 
 Dlahley Grange, 1 27. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 209 
 
 DOE HILL. 
 
 Doe Hill, 14. 
 
 Doncaster, 101. 
 
 Donington Park, 12. 
 Donnington-on-the-Heath, 116. 
 Dovecliff, 186. 
 
 Dovedale, 189. 
 
 Doveholes, 47, 192. 
 
 Doveridge, 184, 186, 195. 
 
 Dove River, 184, 192. 
 
 Dowel, 195. 
 
 Drakelow Hall, 118, 165. 
 Draycott, 62, 182. 
 
 Drayton Bassett, 161. 
 
 Dresden, 177. 
 
 Dronfield, 23. 
 
 Dudley 148. 
 
 Dudley Port Junction, ijG. 
 Duffield, 16. 
 
 Duke’s Drive, 45. 
 
 Duke’s Folly, 90. 
 
 Dukery, the, 89. 
 
 Dunford Bridge, 60. 
 
 Dungeon Tor, 26. 
 
 Dympus, 47. 
 
 E. 
 
 Eakring, 9?. 
 
 Earl’s Sterndale, 189. 
 
 East Markham, 96. 
 
 East Moor, 21. 
 
 East Retford, 96. 
 
 East Stoke, 71. 
 
 Eastwood, 13. 
 
 Ecclesall, 2 3. 
 
 Ecclesbourne, Valley of the, 16. 
 Eccleshall, 142. 
 
 Eckington, 22. 
 
 Ecton Hill, 1 91, 201. 
 
 Edale, 54. 
 
 Edensor, 33. 
 
 Edgbaston, 136. 
 
 Edingley, 89. 
 
 Edwiristowe, 91. 
 
 Egginton, 2. 
 
 Eldon Hole, 49. 
 
 Elford, 162. 
 
 Ellastone, 186. 
 
 Ellenhall, 172. 
 
 Elmsthorpe, 111. 
 
 Elmton, 22. 
 
 Elton, 75. 
 
 Elvaston, 61. 
 
 Endon, 199. 
 
 Enville, 146. 
 
 Ere wash Valley, 12. 
 
 Erwood Hall, 46. 
 
 Etherow River, 59. 
 
 Ettingshall Road, 13 1, 136. 
 Etocetum, 159. 
 
 Etruria, 179. 
 
 Etwall, 3. 
 
 Eyam, 57. 
 
 Eyam Moor, 57. 
 
 GRANED TOR. 
 
 F. 
 
 Fairbrook Naze, 53. 
 Farnsfield, 89. 
 
 Farwell, 170. 
 
 Fauld Hall, 184. 
 
 Fawfield, 201. 
 
 Fazeley, 161. 
 
 Fenny Bentley,' 188. 
 
 Fenton, 181. 
 
 Fernilee, 46. 
 
 Ferns, the, 11. 
 
 Fillyford Bridge, 40. 
 
 Fin Cop, 40. 
 
 Findern, 3. 
 
 Fisherwick, 170. 
 
 Fiskerton, 70. 
 
 Flash, 202. 
 
 Flash Bottom, 202. 
 Flawforth, 63. 
 
 Flood Dyke, 90. 
 
 Ford Green, 103, 
 
 Foremark Hall, 3. 
 
 Forton, 173. 
 
 Fosse Way, xxxviii, 62, 123. 
 Fountain Dale, 81. 
 
 Four Ashes, 139. 
 
 Four Crosses, 140. 
 
 Foxton, 103. 
 
 Fox Tor, 40. 
 
 Fradley Hall, 159. 
 
 Frisby, 112. 
 
 Frith, the, 193. 
 
 Froghall, 199. 
 
 Frolesworth, 124. 
 
 Fulwood’s Castle, 30. 
 
 G. 
 
 Garendon Park, 127. 
 
 Gay ton, 174. 
 
 Gedling, 70. 
 
 Geology, ix. 
 
 Gib Hill, 30, 194. 
 
 Gillow Heath, 203. 
 
 Glapwell, 85. 
 
 Glen, 103. 
 
 Glenfield, 116. 
 
 Glossop, 59. 
 
 Glutton Bridge, 195. 
 
 Glutton Dale, 195. 
 
 Gnosall, 172. 
 
 Goldsitch Moss, 201. 
 Gonalston, 70. 
 
 Gopsall Hall, m. 
 
 Gornal, 136. 
 
 Gospel Hillock, 41. 
 
 Gotham, 62. 
 
 Goyt’s Clough, 46. 
 
 Gracedieu, 120. 
 
 Gradbach, 201. 
 
 Grand Junction Railway, 136. 
 Grand Trunk Canal, 178. 
 Graned Tor, 29. 
 
 HEXGRAVE. 
 
 Grantham, 77. 
 
 Great Barr, 137. 
 
 Great Bridge, 151. 
 Great Made ley, 144. 
 Greendale Oak, 91. 
 Gresley, 118. 
 
 Gresley Castle, 78. 
 Grindleford Bridge, 57. 
 Grindley, 174. 
 
 Grindon, 191. 
 Gringley, 97. 
 
 Grinlow, 45. 
 
 Groby Castle, 123. 
 Groby Pool, 123. 
 Gumley, 103 
 Gun, the, 201. 
 
 H. 
 
 Haddon Hall, 31. 
 
 Hag Tor, 26. 
 
 Hagley, 146. 
 
 Hagley Hall, 167. 
 
 Hales, 14 3. 
 
 Hales Hall, 199. 
 
 Hales Owen, 146. 
 
 Hall Dale, 19?. 
 Hallamshire hounds, 57, 
 Hambleton Hill, 83. 
 Hammer wich, 152. 
 Hamps River, 190, 201. 
 Hamstall Ridware, 167. 
 Hamstead, 137. 
 
 Hanbury, 184. 
 Handsworth, 129. 
 Hanging Bridge, 190. 
 Hanley, 180. 
 
 Hansacre, 167. 
 
 Harborne, 129. 
 
 Hardwick Hall, 83. 
 Harecastle Junction, 178. 
 Harlaston, 162. 
 Harlaxton Manor, 115. 
 Hartington, 194. 
 Hartshill, 181, 205. 
 Haselour, 162. 
 
 Hassop Hall, 41. 
 
 Hathern, 127. 
 
 Hathersage, 55. 
 Hanghton, 172. 
 Hawksyard Park, 170. 
 Hawton, 73. 
 
 Hayfield, 59. 
 
 Hay Top, 41. 
 
 Haywood Abbey, 173. 
 Hazlewood, 16. 
 
 Heanor, 13. 
 
 Heathy Lee, 201. 
 Hednesford, 167. 
 
 Heeley, 23. 
 
 Heights of Abraham, 25. 
 Hemington, 128. 
 
 Hen Moor, 189. 
 
 Hexgrave, 89. 
 
210 
 
 INDEX, 
 
 HIGGAR TOR. 
 
 Higgar Tor, 56. 
 
 High Cross, 123. 
 
 Highfield House, 63. 
 Highlow, 57. 
 
 High Offley, 173. 
 
 High Peak Railway, 25, 189. 
 High Tor, 26. 
 
 High Wlieeldon, 194. 
 
 Hilton, 186. 
 
 Hilton Park, 139. 
 
 Himley Hall, 150. 
 
 Hinckley, no. 
 
 Hindlow, 195. 
 
 Hints, 162. 
 
 Hitter Hill, 195. 
 
 Hixon, 173. 
 
 Hoarcross Hall, 168. 
 
 Hoby, U2. 
 
 Hockley, 128. 
 
 Hodsock Priory, 99. 
 Holbeacb, 150. 
 
 Holbrooke Hall, 15. 
 
 Hollins, 195. 
 
 Holme, 96. 
 
 Holm Pierrepont, 74. 
 Hon-Cloud, 201. 
 
 Hope, 55. 
 
 Hopton Heath, 174. 
 
 Horsley, 15. 
 
 Horton, 202. 
 
 Hucknall Torkard, 78. 
 HugglescoteJn6. 
 
 Huiton Abbey, 179. 
 Hykeham, 73. 
 
 I. 
 
 lbstock, 116. 
 
 Icknield Street, xxxvi, xliii. 
 Idridgehay, 16. 
 
 11am, 190. 
 
 11 am Stone, 192. 
 
 Ilkeston, 13. 
 
 Industrial resources, xxvii. 
 Ingestre, 17 3 . 
 
 Ingleby, 3. 
 
 Ipstones, 199. 
 
 Ipstones Edge, 199. 
 lronville, 14. 
 
 Iron manufacture, xxxii. 
 Izaak Walton Hotel, 192. 
 
 J. 
 
 James Bridge, 138. 
 Jordan Castle, 94. 
 
 K. 
 
 Kedleston Hall, 8. 
 Keele, 205. 
 
 Keele Hall, 205. 
 
 LONG EATON. 
 
 Kegworth, 127. 
 
 Kelham, 9?. 
 
 Kenslow, 30, 194. 
 j Kettleby, 113. 
 
 Kibworth, 102. 
 
 Kidsgrove, 178. 
 
 Kilbum, 15. 
 
 Kinder Downfall, 53. 
 Kinderscout, 53. 
 
 King John's Palace, 90. 
 King Richard’s Well, hi. 
 King's Bromley, 168. 
 Kingshaugh, 96. 
 
 King’s Low, 172. 
 
 King’s Newton, 10. 
 
 King’s Stemdale, 41. 
 King’s Swinford, 148. 
 Kingston Hall, 1 27. 
 Kingston-on-Soar, 127. J 
 Klnlet, 147. 
 
 Kinvaston, 140. 
 
 Kinver, 148. 
 
 Kirby Hall, 14. 
 
 Kirby Muxloe, 115. 
 Kirkby Forest, 82. 
 
 Kirkby Junction, 82. 
 Kirklington, 89 
 Knave’s Castle, 152. 
 Kuesall, 93. 
 
 Knowl Hills, n. 
 Knypersley, 203. 
 Knypersley Hall, 204. 
 
 L. 
 
 Lace manufacture, xxviii. 
 Laidman’s Low, 45. 
 I^angar, 75. 
 
 Langley Mill, 13. 
 Langtons, the, 102. 
 
 Lap ley, 140. 
 
 Lathkill, Vale of, 40. 
 Laund Abbey, 114. 
 
 Lea Hurst, 24. 
 
 Lead mines, xxvii. 
 
 Leek, 200. 
 
 Leicester, 104. 
 
 Leicester Headland, 118. 
 Leigh, 182. 
 
 Lene River, 63. 
 
 Lenton, 77. 
 
 Lichfield, 152. 
 
 Linby, 78. 
 
 Lion’s Head, the, 192. 
 Little Aston Hall, 151. 
 Little Eaton, 15. 
 
 Little Hucklow, 42. 
 
 Load Mill, 19?. 
 Lockington, 128. 
 
 Locko Park. 60. 
 Lomberdale, 29. 
 Longcroft Hall, 168. 
 Ixmgdon, 171. 
 
 Long Eaton, 13. 
 
 miller’s dale. 
 
 Longnor, 195. 
 
 Longport, 179. 
 
 Longstone, 41. 
 
 Longstone Edge, 41. 
 Longton, 181. 
 
 Lord’s Seat, 56. 
 
 Loseby Hall, 114. 
 
 Lose Hill, 49, 53. 
 Loughborough, 126. 
 Lover’s Leap, 41, 45, 58. 
 Lovers’ Walk, 26. 
 Lowdham, 70. 
 
 Loxley Hall, 183. 
 Lubbesthorpe Abbey, 103. 
 Ludchurch, 201. 
 
 Lumb, the, 201. 
 Lutterworth, 124. 
 
 Lye, the, 146. 
 
 Lyme Hall, 47. 
 
 M. 
 
 Macclesfield, 202. 
 
 Madeley, 144. 
 
 Madeley Hall, 144. 
 Madeley Road, 206. 
 Madwoman’s Stones, 53. 
 Maer, 144. 
 
 M*\jor Oak, 91. 
 
 Mam Tor, 53. 
 
 Manifold River, 191. 
 Mansfield, 82. 
 
 Mansfield Woodhouse, 89. 
 Maplebeck, 93. 
 
 Mappleton, 190. 
 Marchington, 184. 
 
 Market Boswortli, hi. 
 Market Drayton, 144, 206. 
 Market Harborough, 101. 
 Markfield, 122. 
 
 Markham Moor, 96. 
 Markland Grips, 22. 
 Marston-on-the-Dove, 186. 
 Masson, 27. 
 
 Matlock Bank, 28. 
 
 Matlock Bath, 25. 
 
 Matlock Bridge, 28. 
 Matlock Caves, 26. 
 Matlock Dale, 24. 
 Mattersey, 97. 
 
 Mavesyn Rid ware, 167. 
 Mayfield, 187. 
 
 Meaford Old Hall, 176. 
 Medboume, 102. 
 Meerbrook, 201. 
 Melbourne, 10. 
 
 Melton Mowbray, 113. 
 Middleton, 27. 
 
 Middleton Dale, 58. 
 Middleton Hall, 58. 
 Midland Railway, 14. 
 Milford, 17. 
 
 Mill Dale, 192. 
 
 Miller’s Dole, 41, 42. 
 
INDEX, 
 
 211 
 
 MILTON. 
 
 Milton, 200, 203. 
 
 Moat in Ribden, 186. 
 Mock Beggars’ Hall, 29. 
 Moira, 118. 
 
 Monmore Green, 1 36 . 
 Monsall Dale, 40. 
 Monyash, 189. 
 
 Moorgate, 97. 
 
 Moorhouse, 96. 
 Moorlands, the, xxii, 201. 
 Morley, 15. 
 
 Morridge, the, xxii, 201. 
 Moseley Old Hall, 139. 
 Mount St. Bernard, 120. 
 Mount Sorrel, 124. 
 
 Mow Cop, 203. 
 
 Mowsley, 103. 
 
 Moxley, 13 1. 
 
 Muccleston, 143. " 
 
 Muskham Bridge, 96k 
 Mytham Bridge, 55. 
 
 N. 
 
 Narborough, 112. 
 
 Needwood Forest, 168 
 Nelson’s Pillar, 21. 
 
 Nether Seal, 118. 
 
 Netherton, 148. 
 
 Nevill Holt, 102. 
 
 Newark, 71. 
 
 Newbold Verdon, 116. 
 Newborough, 168. 
 Newcastle-under-Lyme, 205.. 
 New Chapel, 179. 
 
 Newhaven House, 189. 
 
 New Mills, 48. 
 
 Newport, 173. 
 
 Newstead, 78. 
 
 Newton Road, 138. 
 
 Newtown Linford, 122. 
 
 New Village, 1 36. 
 
 Nine Ladies, 29. 
 
 Norbury, 173, 186. 
 Normanton, 4. 
 Normanton-on-Soar, 127. 
 North Lees, 55. 
 
 North Muskham, 96. 
 
 North Wingfield, 20. 
 
 Norton, 23. 
 
 Norton Bridge Junction, 142. 
 Norton-in-Hales, 206. 
 Norton-in-the-Moors, 203.. 
 Noseley, 103. 
 
 Nottingham, 63. 
 
 Nuthall Temple, 78. 
 
 0 . 
 
 Oadby, 103. 
 Oakamoor, 198. 
 Oakedge, 171. 
 Oakengates, 135. 
 
 PILSLEY. 
 
 Oakley, 163. 
 
 Oaks Chapel, 121. 
 Ockbrook, 61. 
 
 Ocker Hill, 136. 
 
 Odin Mine, 53. 
 
 Ogley Hay, 152. 
 
 Ogston Hall, 19. 
 
 Okeover, 190. 
 
 Oker Hill, 28. ‘ 
 
 Oldbury, 136. ' 
 
 Old Hardwick, 85. 
 
 Old John Hill, 123. 
 
 Old Shelton Hall, x8o. 
 
 Old Swinford, 146. 
 Ollerton, 94. 
 
 One Ash Grange, 189. 
 Ordsall, 96. 
 
 Orston, 75. 
 
 Osberton, 92. 
 
 Oscott, 137. 
 
 Osmaston Hall, 4. 
 Ossington, 96* 
 
 Oulton, 176. 
 
 Over Arley, 147. 
 
 Over Haddon, 40. 
 
 Over Seal, 118. 
 
 Over Stonnall, 152 
 Overton Hall, 20. 
 
 Oxton, 70. 
 
 Owthorpe, 75. 
 
 P. 
 
 Packington Hall, 159. 
 Padley, 57. 
 
 Papplewick Hall, 81. 
 Parcelly Hay Barrow, 30. 
 Park Hill, 195. 
 Parliament Oak, 90. 
 Parson’s Tor, 40. 
 
 Parwich, 189. 
 
 Patshull, 135. 
 
 Pattingham, 135. 
 
 Peak, the, 53. 
 
 Peak Castle, 50. 
 
 Peak Cavern, 51. 
 
 Peak Forest, 48, 49.. 
 Pedmore, 146. 
 
 Pelsall, 1 51. 
 
 Penderford, 134. 
 Penkridge, 140. 
 Pennocrucium, 140. 
 Perlethorpe, 94. 
 
 Perry Barr, 137. 
 
 Perry Hall, 137. 
 
 Perryfoot, 49. 
 
 Pershall, 143. 
 
 Pewit Pool, 173. 
 
 Physical Features, ix.. 
 Pickering Tors, 192. 
 
 Pike Pool, 193. 
 
 Pike Rock, 193. 
 
 Pilaton Hall, 140. 
 Pilgrim’s Oak, 78. 
 
 Pilsley, 59. 
 
 ROCHE ABBEY. 
 
 Pinxton, 14. 
 
 Pipe Gate, 2064 
 Pipe Ridware, 167. 
 Places of Interest, xlv. 
 Pleasley, 83. 
 
 Poole’s Cavern, 45. 
 Portobello, 138. 
 Portway, 162. 
 
 Potter’s Hill, 73. 
 Pottery, xxxii. 
 
 Pottery District, 181. 
 Prestwold, 127. 
 Prestwood, 146. 
 Priestfield Junction, 13 1. 
 Prince’s End, 136. 
 
 Pye Bridge, 14. 
 
 Q 
 
 Quarnford, 201. 
 Queen’s Low, 172. 
 Queniborough, 112. 
 Quorndon, 126. 
 
 K 
 
 Radboume, 3. 
 
 Radcliffe, 74. 
 
 Radford, 77,^92. 
 
 Radmore, 170. 
 
 Ragdale, 112. 
 
 Rainworth, 89. 
 
 Ranskill, 97. 
 
 Ranton Abbey, 172. 
 
 Ratby, 116. 
 Ratcliffe-on-Soar, 128. 
 Ratcliffe-on-the-Wreak, 112. 
 Rearsby, 112. 
 
 Redmires, 56. 
 
 Renishaw, 22. 
 
 Repton, 2. 
 
 Reservoirs at Glossop, 59. 
 Retford, 96. 
 
 Reynard’s Hall, 192. 
 
 Riber Castle, 28. 
 
 Riddings, 14. 
 
 Ridgeway, the, 56. 
 
 Ridwares, the, 167. 
 
 Ripley, 15. 
 
 Risley Hall, 13. 
 
 Rivaiin River, 55.3 
 Roaches, the, 201. 
 
 Robin Hood, xxxix. 
 
 Robin Hood’s Butts, 162. 
 Robin Hood’s Cave, 55, 81. 
 Robin Hood’s Chair, 81. 
 Robin Hood’s Hills, 81, 82. 
 Robin Hood’s Inn, 21, 89. 
 Robin Hood’s Larder, 91. 
 Robin Hood’s Stride, 29. 
 Rocester, 195. 
 
 Rocester Junction, 186. 
 Roche Abbey, 99. 
 
212 
 
 INDEX, 
 
 R 0 ECL 1 FF. 
 
 Rocciirr, 12 «?. 
 
 Roger ltain’« House, 31. 
 RolUvton Hall. 186. 
 Rolleston Junction. 71. 
 Roosdyche, 48. 
 
 Rothley Temple, 113. 
 Round oak. 148. 
 
 Rowley, 146. 
 
 Rowsley, 28. 
 
 Rowtor l lock*, 29. 
 
 Royal Cottage, 2or. 
 Haddington, 6). 
 Rudyard. 202. 
 
 Rndyard Hall, 202. 
 Rudyanl take, 202. 
 Rufford Abbey, 94. 
 Rngeley. 167. 
 
 Rumour Hill. 166. 
 Rudiall. it 1. 
 
 Rush ton Spencer, 202. 
 BarirtdK ibe, 202. 
 Kuabup Edge. 48. 
 
 8 . 
 
 S.vlllngton, 103. 
 Salt. 174. 
 
 Saltby Heath, 115. 
 Sandtarre, ij. 
 Sandon, 174. 
 
 Sand well l'ark. 1 30. 
 Sawley, 1 2, 62. 
 Saxondale. 74. 
 
 Saxon Low, 176. 
 ScarrlifTe, 83. 
 Scarthing Nick, 23. 
 8crooby, 98. 
 Scmpton, 184. 
 
 Seal Kdg«\ 3 3. 
 Sedgbrook. 77. 
 Sedgley, 1 36. 
 Setghford, 142. 
 SeL«ton. 14. 
 
 Serlby Hall. 97. 
 Shack^mton. tit. 
 Shardlow Hall, 6z. 
 SharrahllL 139. 
 
 Sharp Low, 189. 
 Sheen. 194. 
 Sbeepbridge. 22. 
 Sheepalie.vl. 11% 
 
 She l ford, 70, 74. 
 Shelton. 18a 
 Shendnn*-. 139. 
 Shenton Hall. Ilf. 
 Sheriff Hale*, 14a 
 Sherwood ForreC. 81. 
 Shi final, l?f. 
 
 Shining Cl iff. 24. 
 Shipley Gate. 1 J. 
 Shireoak*. 93. 
 Shirland. 19. 
 
 Shot tie. 16. 
 
 Shug borough, 171. 
 
 SWAN VILLAGE. 
 
 ! Sileby. 1 24. 
 j Sllverdale. 203. 
 
 1 Simmondly, 39. 
 
 Sir William. 39. 
 
 I Skeleton l ours, xlix. 
 
 1 Smalltbome, 201. 
 Smethwick. 129. 
 Smethwick Junction, 1 36. 
 Smite River, xv. 
 
 Sneinton. 66. 
 
 Snelstoo, 187. 
 
 Snow Hill, 128. 
 
 Soho, 128, 136. 
 
 Sookholtn, 91. 
 
 South Musk bam. 96. 
 
 South Retford. 96. 
 
 South Scarle, 73. 
 Southwell, 87. 
 
 South Wingfield, 19. 
 Sparrow Pit, 48. 
 
 Speedwell Chvern, 52. 
 Spink Hill, 22. 
 
 Spondon, 60. 
 
 Spon Ijine, 136. 
 
 Spread Eagle, 1 39. 
 
 Staddon Moor, 46. 
 Stafford, 140. 
 
 Stafford Ca*tle, 142. 
 Stanage Edge, 56. 
 Stancliffe Hall, 28. 
 Standon Bridge, 144. 
 Stanford Park, 127. 
 Stanton, 10, 29, 1S7. 
 Stanton Gate, 1 3. 
 
 Stanton Moor, 29. 
 Stapenhill, 118. 
 
 Staplefonl. IJ, 114. 
 
 Stat fold, 162. 
 
 Staunton Harold, 11. 
 Staveley, 22. 
 
 Steetley Chapel, 23. 
 Stewanisbury, 123. 
 Stewponey, 146. 
 St/icking-trade, xxxifi. 
 Stoke Golding, 1 10. 
 Stoke-on-Trent, 181. 
 
 Stone, 176. 
 
 Stooefleld. 176. 
 
 Stoney Middleton, f8. 
 Stonnia, 23. 
 
 Stourbridge, 143. 
 
 Stourton (*a*tl« . 148. 
 
 Stour Valley Line, 136. 
 Stowe. 137, 174. 
 
 Strait, the. 192. 
 
 Strrtton. 20. 186. 
 
 Sudbury. 184. 
 
 Sognail. 143. 
 
 Summit Bridge, 129. 
 SurUtow. 49. 
 
 Sutton, 97. 
 
 Sutton Hall, 86. 
 
 Sutton In Ash field, 82. 
 Swanninc’on. it 6. 
 
 Swan Village, 13a 
 
 ULVERSCROFT PIUORY. 
 
 Swnrkestone, 10. 
 
 Swift River, xvil. 
 
 Swlnderbv, 7 3. 
 
 | Swinren flail. 139. 
 Swtnnerton, 144. 
 
 Swithamley. 201. 
 
 Swithland, 123. 
 
 Syston, 1 12, 124. 
 
 T. 
 
 Taddington, 41. 
 
 Talke, 178. 
 
 Tam worth, 160. 
 
 Tap-drradng, 188. 
 
 Tapton House, 21. 
 Tatenhlll, 163. 
 
 Taxnl. 47. 
 
 Tcddealoy Park, 140. 
 Tettenliall, 1 14. 
 
 Thoresby Hall, 94. 
 
 Thorpe, 73. 
 
 Thorpe Arnold, 113. 
 Thorpe Bentley, 189. 
 Thorpe Cloud. 190. 
 
 Thorpe l^angton, 102, 
 Thor's Gave, 191. 
 
 Throwlcy Hall, 191. 
 Thurcaaton. 1 24. 
 Thurgarton, 7a 
 Thurmaston, 124. 
 
 TickhiU. 100. 
 
 Tirknall. 12. 
 
 Tldeswcll, 42. 
 
 Tilton, 103. 
 
 Tipton, i|6. 
 
 Tiseington, 18R. 
 
 Tlasington Spires, 192. 
 Tltten*or, 176. 
 
 Tivldale, 136. 
 
 Tlxall, 172. 
 
 Toad hole*, 28. 
 
 Tonge, iv. 
 
 Tongue End, 42. 
 
 Trent College, 12. 62. 
 
 Trent Junction, 12, 62. 
 Trent River, xiv. 
 
 Trent Valley Railway. 169. 
 Trent ham. 176. 
 
 Trysail, t<~. 
 
 Tun* tall, 170. 
 
 Tun*tall Hall, 134, 144 
 Tun* trail. 48. 
 
 Tnr iAington. 102. 
 
 Turner** Hill. 146. 
 Tumhumt, 179. 
 
 Tutbury, 184. 
 
 Tuxford, 96. 
 
 Twelve A poetics, 192. 
 
 U 
 
 TTlWthorpe. 123 
 Uln?r»crofl Priory, ill. 
 
INDEX, 
 
 213 
 
 « 
 
 UNSTONE, 
 
 Unstone, 2 3. 
 
 Upper Hulme, 201, 
 Upper Tean, 199. 
 Upton, 87. 
 
 Uttoxeter, 183. 
 
 V, 
 
 Yauxhall, 137. 
 Vennones, 124. 
 Vemometum, 75. 
 Yia Gellia, 27. 
 
 W. 
 
 Wakelyn, 186. 
 
 Wall, 159, 
 
 Walsall, 15 1. 
 
 Waltham on the Wolds, 115, 
 Wanlip, 124, 125. 
 
 Warsop, 91. 
 
 Wartnaby Hall, 113. 
 
 Water Swallows, 46. 
 
 Watling Street, xllii, 139. 
 Wedgwood Pottery, 180, 
 Wednesbury, 130, 151, 
 Wednesfield, 138. 
 
 Weeford, 162. 
 
 Weeping Cross, 172, 
 
 Weever Hills, 201. 
 
 Welbeck, 91. 
 
 Well Flowering, 188. 
 Wellington, 135. 
 
 Wellow, 93. 
 
 West Bromwich, 129. 
 
 WINGFIELD MANOR. 
 
 West Leake, 128. 
 
 West Markham, 96. 
 
 West Retford, 96. 
 
 Weston, 173, 174. 
 
 Weston on Trent, 12. 
 Weston Park, 135. 
 Westwood Hall, 200. 
 Westwood House, 199. 
 Wetley, 109. 
 
 Wetton Bridge, 191. 
 
 Whaley Bridge, 47, 48. 
 Whatstandwell, 24. 
 Whatton, 75. 
 
 Wheston, 42. 
 
 Whitfield, 59. 
 
 Whitmore, 144. 
 Whittington, 22. 
 Whittington Junction, 22. 
 Whitwell Hall, 22. 
 Whitwick, 1 19. 
 
 Wichnor Junction, 160, 163. 
 Widmerpool, 128. 
 Wigginton, 162. 
 
 Wigston Junction, 103. 
 Wigwell Grange, 24. 
 
 Wild Cat Tor, 26. 
 
 Wilford, 63. 
 
 Willenhall. 138. 
 
 Willersley Castle, 24 
 Willington, 2, 
 Willingsworth Hall, 13 1 
 Windy Gap, 46, 
 Wingerworth Hall, 20. 
 Wingfield, 18. 
 
 Wingfield Manor, 19. 
 
 I YOXALL. 
 
 : Win Hill, 49, 53. 
 
 I Winniats, 49. 
 
 ! Winster, 28, 
 
 ' Wirksworth, 16. 
 
 ! Wistow, 103. 
 
 ! Withcot, 1 14. 
 
 Wolfecote, 193. 
 
 Wollaton, 69. 
 
 Wolseley, 171. 
 Wolstanton, 180. 
 Wolverhampton, 132. 
 Wombourne, 150. 
 Woodborough, 70. 
 Woodhead Reservoir, 60. 
 Woodhouse Chapel, 125. 
 Woodhouse Eaves, 125, 
 Woodhouse Junction, 22. 
 Woof Lowe, 204. 
 Wootton, 187. 
 
 Worksop, 92. 
 
 Worksop Manor, 92. 
 Wormhill, 46. 
 Worthington, n. 
 
 Wren’s Nest, the, 150, 
 Wrottesley Hall, 134. 
 Wymeswold, 127. 
 Wyrley, 166. 
 
 Wysall, 128. 
 
 Y, 
 
 ! Youlgreave, 29, 
 
 ! Yoxall, 168, 
 
 THE END. 
 
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 ABERYSTWITH . 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 BRISTOL 
 
 
 
 16 
 
 ILFRACOMBE 
 
 
 
 42 
 
 LANCASTER . 
 
 
 
 44 
 
 LONDON 
 
 
 
 2-6, 45-57 
 
 LYNTON 
 
 
 
 58 
 
 MALVERN . 
 
 
 
 60 
 
 OXFORD 
 
 
 
 68 
 
 PENZANCE . 
 
 
 
 . 69, 70 
 
 PLYMOUTH . 
 
 
 
 72 
 
 FRANCE : 
 
 AIX LES BAINS . 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 ARGELES 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 AVRANCHES . 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 BAGN&RES DE BIGORRE 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 BELFORT 
 
 
 
 . 14 
 
 BIARRITZ . 
 
 
 
 15 
 
 BORDEAUX . 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 BOULOGNE-SUR-MER . 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 CANNES 
 
 
 
 . 19 
 
 CHAMB^RY . 
 
 
 
 20 
 
 CHAUMONT . 
 
 
 
 
 DIEPPE 
 
 
 
 
 DIJON .... 
 
 
 
 
 GRENOBLE . 
 
 
 
 38 
 
 MACON .... 
 
 
 
 
 MARSEILLES 
 
 
 
 . 59, 61 
 
 MONT DORE LES BAINS 
 
 
 
 63 
 
 NICE .... 
 
 
 
 
 PARIS .... 
 
 
 
 
 POITIERS . 
 
 
 
 72 
 
 ROUEN . . 
 
 
 
 
 TOURS .... 
 
 
 
 . 78 
 
 VICHY .... 
 
 
 
 
 GERMANY (North and South) : 
 BADEN 
 
 
 BERLIN .... 
 
 
 
 
 BONN 
 
 
 
 17 
 
 COBLENTZ . 
 
 
 
 
 COLOGNE 
 
 
 
 
 DRESDEN 
 
 
 
 
 FRANKFORT 
 
 
 
 . 30-32 
 
 HEIDELBERG 
 
 
 
 . 40, 41 
 
 HOMBURG . . 
 
 
 
 41 
 
 INNSBRUCK . 
 
 
 
 41 
 
 GERMANY (continued): PA(3e 
 
 MARIENBAD 59 
 
 MAYENCE 61 
 
 METZ 62 
 
 MUNICH 63, 64 
 
 NUREMBERG 65,68 
 
 PRAGUE 73 
 
 RHEINFALL 74 
 
 SAARBRUCK 77 
 
 VIENNA 7, 83, 84 
 
 WIESBADEN 85, 86 
 
 WILDBAD 85 
 
 WURZBURG ... ... 86 
 
 GREECE : 
 
 ATHENS 12 
 
 CORFU 24 
 
 HOLLAND : 
 
 AMSTERDAM 9 
 
 ROTTERDAM 77 
 
 ITALY : 
 
 FLORENCE 28-30 
 
 GENOA 38, 39 
 
 MILAN 62 
 
 NAPLES 64 
 
 PISA 68 
 
 ROME 73-76 
 
 STRESA 78 
 
 TURIN 79, 80 
 
 VENICE 80, 81 
 
 NORWAY : 
 
 CHRISTIANIA 21,65 
 
 RUSSIA : 
 
 ST. PETERSBURG 71 
 
 SCOTLAND : 
 
 ABERDEEN 8 
 
 SPAIN : 
 
 BARCELONA 14 
 
 SWEDEN : 
 
 STOCKHOLM 78 
 
 SWITZERLAND : 
 
 AIGLE § 
 
 BALE 12 
 
 BERNE 12 
 
 CHAMOUN1X 20 
 
 CONSTANCE 23 
 
 ENGELBERG 27 
 
 GENEVA .33-33 
 
 INTERLAKEN 42, 43 
 
 LAUSANNE . 44, 45 
 
 LUCERNE 56-58 
 
 NEUCHATEL ...... 65 
 
 RAGATZ LES BAINS .... 73 
 
 THUN 79 
 
 VEVAY 81, 82 
 
 ZURICH 86, 87 
 
 TURKEY IN EUROPE : 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE . . .7,23 
 
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 1 
 
 AGENTS. 
 
 UaV. 
 
 London, May 1, 1874. 
 
 MESSRS. J. & R. M C CRACKEN, 
 
 38, QOEEN STREET, CANNON STREET, E.C., 
 
 AGENTS, BT APPOINTMENT, TO THE ROYAL ACADEMY, NATIONAL GALLERY, 
 AND GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENT OF SCIENCE AND ART, 
 
 GENERAL AND FOREIGN AGENTS, 
 
 WINE MERCHANTS, 
 
 Agents for Bouvier’s Nenchatel Champagne, 
 
 AND 
 
 AGENTS GENERALLY FOR THE RECEPTION AND SHIPMENT OF WORK8 OF 
 ART, BAGGAGE, &C., 
 
 FROM AND TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD, 
 
 Avail themselves of this opportunity to return their sincere thanks to the 
 Nobility and Gentry for the patronage hitherto conferred on them, and hope to 
 be honoured with a continuance of their favours. THeir charges are framed with 
 a due regard to economy, and the same care and attention will be bestowed as 
 heretofore upon all packages passing through their hands. 
 
 J. and R. M c C. have the advantage of 
 
 DRY AND SPACIOUS WAREHOUSES, 
 
 Where Works of Art and all descriptions of Property can be kept during the 
 Owners* absence, at most moderate rates of rent. 
 
 Parties favouring J. a^d R. M c C. with their Consignments are requested to be 
 particular in having the Bills of Lading sent to them DIRECT by Post, and also to 
 forward their Keys with the Packages, as, although the contents may be free of 
 Duty, all Packages are still examined by the Customs immediately on arrival. 
 Packages sent by Steamers or otherwise to Southampton and Liverpool also attended 
 to ; but all Letters of Advice and Bills of Lading to be addressed to 38, QUEEN 
 Street, as above. 
 
 MESSRS. J. AND R. MCCRACKEN 
 
 ARK THE APPOINTED AGENTS IN ENGLAND OK MR. J. M. KARINA, 
 
 Geoewuuf.r dkm Julichs Plate, Coloohk, 
 
 Ton MS 
 
 CELEBRATED EAU DE COLOGNE. 
 
1874 . 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 3 
 
 AGENTS. 
 
 MESSRS. J. AND R. MCCRACKEN’S 
 
 PRINCIPAL CORRESPONDENTS. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA Messrs. Robertson* Philip, & Co. 
 
 ALICANTE . . * Mr. P. R. Dahlander. 
 
 ANCONA Messrs. Moore, Morellet, & Co. 
 
 ANTWERP Messrs. F. Monheim & Co. 
 
 Messrs. Mellerio Fkeres. Mr. F. Pelikan’s Suecessor. 
 BADEN-BADEN . . • ^ Mr. h \j llrich. 
 
 BAD EMS Mr. H. W. Thiel. 
 
 _ , ^ c Messrs. Jean Preiswerk & Fils. 
 
 BASLE ^ M r . J. Fret. 
 
 c Mr. Lion M. Cohn, Comm re . Expediteur. 
 
 BERLIN ^ Mr. ^ Warmuth. 
 
 BERNE Messrs. A. Bauer & Co. 
 
 BEYROUT M. Henry Heald. _ __ „ 
 
 BOLOGNA Messrs. Renoli, Buggio, & Co. Sig. L. Meni. 
 
 BOMBAY Messrs. King, King, & Co. 
 
 BORDEAUX Messrs. Albrecht & Fils. 
 
 BOULOGNE s. M. . . . Messrs. Mory & Co. Messrs. L. J . Vogue & Co. 
 
 BRINDISI Italo-Oriental Co. A. Coen, Manager. 
 
 CALAIS Messrs. L. J. Vogue & Co. 
 
 CALCUTTA Messrs. Gillanders, Arbuthnot, & Co. 
 
 CARLSBAD Mr. Thomas Wolf, Glass Manufacturer. 
 
 CANNES . . . ! ! Mr. J. Taylor. 
 
 CARRARA Sig. F. Bienaime, Sculptor. 
 
 CATANIA Mr. Matthey. 
 
 CIVITA VECCHIA . Messrs. Lowe Brothers, British Consulate. 
 
 C Mr. J. M. Farina, gegeniiber dem Julichs Platz. 
 
 COLOGNE ^ Messrs. G™e. Tilmes & Co. 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE Mr. Alfred C. Laughton. Messrs. C. S. Hanson & Co. 
 COPENHAGEN Messrs. H. J. Bing & Son. 
 
 C0RFU ( Messrs." h! BaSenge & Co. Mr. E. Arnold, Printseller. The 
 
 I Director of the Royal Porcelain Manufactory Depot. Madame 
 
 DRESDEN \ Helena Wolfsohn, Schossergasse, No. 5. Mr, Moritz Meyer, 
 
 I Moritz Strasse. Messrs. Seeger & Maeser. 
 
 Messrs. French & Co. Sig. Luigi Ramacci. Messrs. EMMle Fenzi 
 & Co Sig. Tito Gagliardi, Dealer in Antiquities. Messrs. 
 Maquay, Hooker, & Co. Messrs. Eyre & Matteini. Mr.E. 
 
 FLORENCE.. \ Goodban, Printseller. Messrs. Nesti, Ciardi, & Co. Mr. I. 
 
 Bianchini, Mosaic Worker. Messrs. P. Bazzanti & *ig., 
 Sculptors, Lungo l’Arno. 
 
 (Messrs. Bing, Jun., & Co. Mr. F. Bohler, Zeil D. 17- Mr. G. 
 FRANKFORT o. M. | Krebs. Messrs. Sachs and Hochheimer, Wine Merchants. 
 
 GF.NEVA MM. Levrier & P^lissier. _ 
 
 c Messrs. Granet, Brown, & Co. Messrs. G. & E. Barchi Brothers. 
 
 GENOA / Mr. C. A. Wilson. Mr. H. A. Mossa, Grande Albergo d Italia. 
 
 c Messrs. De Buyser Freres, Dealers in. Antiquities, Marche au 
 GHENT ^ Beurre, No. 21. 
 
 (GIBRALTAR Messrs. Archbold, Johnston, & Powers. 
 
 HAMBURG Messrs. J. P. Jensen & Co. Messrs. Schormer & Ieichmann. 
 
 HAVRE Messrs. LouEdin, Pbre, Fils jeune, & G. Capron. 
 
 HEID ELBERG Mr. Ph. Zimmermans. 
 
 INTERLACKEN .... Mr. J. Grossm ann. Mr. A. Tremp. Mr. C. H. Schuh. 
 JERUSALEM . Messrs. E. F. Spittler & Co. Mr. M. Bergheim, Jun. 
 
 B 2 
 
4 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 AGENTS. 
 
 MCCRACKEN’S LIST OF COBEESPONDENTS-te^W. 
 
 K1SSINGEN Mr. David Kugf.i.mann. Mr. H. F. Kugklmann. 
 
 LAUSANNE Mr. Dubois Rrnou & His. 
 
 1 vnunpv ( Messrs. Alex. Macbean & Co. Messrs. Maquay, Hooker, 8 1 Co. 
 
 LEGHORN J Mr. M. Ristori. Mr. H. Tkumpy. 
 
 LEIPZIG Mr. J. E. OehlschlXger’s Successor. 
 
 LISBON Mr. E. Bouroard. 
 
 LUCERNE Messrs. F. Knorr A Fils. 
 
 MADRAS Messrs. Binny & Co. 
 
 MALAGA Mr. George Hodgson. Mr. J. A. Mark. 
 
 m a t t a i Messrs. Josh. Dark akin & Sons, 45. Strada Levantc, Mosaic 
 
 t Workers. Mr. Fortunato Testa, 92, Strada St* Lucia. 
 
 MANNHEIM Messrs. Etsskn & Clauss. 
 
 MARIENBAD Mr. J. T. Adler, Glass Manufacturer. 
 
 MARSEILLES Messrs. Claude Clerc A Co. 
 
 MENTONE Mr. Palma no. Mr. Jean Orengo Fils. 
 
 MESSINA Messrs. Cailler, Walker, A Co. 
 
 { Mr. G. B. Buffet, Piazza di S. Sepolcro, No. 1. 
 
 Messrs. Fratelli Brambilla. Messrs. Ulrich Sc Co. 
 
 Messrs. G. Bono & Co. 
 
 %.,r VTPT r ( Messrs. Wimmer A Co., Printsellers, Brienner Strasse. 
 
 M u w \ Messrs. Bleicher A Andreis. 
 
 k a m aw f Messrs. Iggulden & Co. Messrs. W. J. Turner & Co. Mr. G# 
 
 n ai ^ Scala, Wine Merchant Messrs. Flli. Quest a. 
 
 NEUCHATEL J Messrs. Bouvier Frkrbs, Wkie Merchants. Messrs. Humbert & Co., 
 
 (Suisse) ( Bazaar. 
 
 NEW YORK Messrs. Austin Baldwin A Co. 
 
 KtrrR , f Messrs. A. Lacroix & Co., British Consulate. Messrs. M. A N. 
 
 w \ Giordan. Mr. H. Ullrich, 7, Quai Massena. Frisks Mignon. 
 
 NUREMBERG Mr. A. Pickert, Dealer in Antiquities. Mr. Max Pick kkt. 
 
 OSTEND Messrs. Bach & Co. 
 
 PALERMO Messrs. Ingham, Whittaker, A Co. 
 
 PARIS Mr. L. Chenue, Packer, Rue Croix des Petits Champs, No. 24. 
 
 PAU Mr. Mu8gravx Clay. 
 
 PIQA (Messrs. Hugubt A Van Lint, Sculptors In Alabaster and Marble. 
 
 1 ‘(Mr. G. Andreoni, Sculptor in Alabaster. 
 
 DD . ( Mr. W. Hofmann, Glass Manufacturer, Blauem Stern. 
 
 PRAGUE. ( Mr. A. V. Lebeda, Gun Maker. 
 
 { Messrs. Plowdkn A Co. Messrs. A. Macbkan A Co. Messrs. 
 Freeborn, Dak yell, A Co. Messrs. Maouay, Hooker, A Co. 
 Messrs. Fcrse Bros. A Co. Messrs. E. Wklht.Son. A Co. Messrs. 
 Sfada, Fla min i, A Co. Mr. J. P. Shea. Mr. A. Tommim. Mr. 
 L jigi Branching at the English College. 
 
 ROTTERDAM. ..... Messrs. Preston A Co. Messrs. C. Hkmmann A Co. 
 
 SAN REMO Fratelli A squasciati. 
 
 . (Mr. Julian B. Williams, British Vice-Consulate. Don Juan AnT. 
 SEVILLE j Bailly. ^ 
 
 8MYRNA Messrs. Hansoij A Co. 
 
 ST. PETERSBURG . Messrs. Thomson, Bonar, A Co. Mr. C. Kruoer. 
 
 THOUNE Mr. Jean Keiirli-Stkrchi. 
 
 TRIESTE Messra. FUj. Chiesa. 
 
 TURIN Messrs. Rochas, I**re A Fils. 
 
 | Mr. L. Bovardi, Ponte alle Ballotte. 
 
 VENICE < Messn. Freer* Schiklin. Mr. AnToNIO Z»K. 
 
 I Messrs. S. A A. Rlumknthal A Co. Mr. Carlo I’orti. 
 
 VEVEY Mr. Ju lbs Get a z File. 
 
 ( Mr. H. Ullrich, Glass Manufacturer, am Lugeck, No. 3. 
 
 VIENNA ) Messrs. J. A I* Lobmktkr, Glass Manufacturers, 940, Kittithnef 
 
 [Strasse. 
 
 ROME. 
 
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 5 
 
 1874. 
 
 AGENTS. 
 
 CHARLES CARR & CO., 
 
 14, BISHOPSGATE STREET WITHIN, LONDON, E.C., 
 COMMISSION MERCHANTS, 
 
 General Agents for the Reception and Shipment of Goods from 
 and to all Parts of the World, 
 
 AND 
 
 WINE MERCHANTS. 
 
 /CHARLES CARR & CO. have the honour to inform 
 
 ^ VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT, 
 
 that they receive and pass through the Custom House in London, Liverpool, 
 Southampton, &c., 
 
 WORKS of Art, BAGGAGE, and PROPERTY of EVERY DESCRIPTION, 
 
 which are attended to on Arrival under their Personal Superintendence, 
 
 with the utmost Care in Examination and Removal, 
 
 AND AT 
 
 very Moderate Charges, 
 
 regulated according to the value of the Packages, and the care and attention 
 
 required. 
 
 Keys of all locked Packages should be sent to C. C. & Co., as everything must be 
 examined on arrival, although not liable to duty. 
 
 CHARLES CARR & CO. also undertake the 
 
 FORWARDING OF PACKAGES OF EVERY KIND, 
 
 which can be sent to the care of their Correspondents, to remain, if required, until 
 applied for by the owners ; also 
 
 THE EXECUTION of ORDERS for the PURCHASE of GOODS, 
 
 of all kinds, which from their long experience as Commission Merchants, they are 
 enabled to buy on the most advantageous terms. 
 
 Residents on the Continent will find this a convenient means of ordering anything 
 they may require from London. 
 
 INSURANCES EFFECTED, AND AGENCY BUSINESS OF EVERY 
 DESCRIPTION ATTENDED TO. 
 
 Package? Warehoused at Moderate Rates of Rent. 
 
8 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 ABERDEEN. 
 
 POLISHED GRANITE MONUMENTS, 
 
 FROM £5. 
 
 Letter Cutting Accurate and Beautiful. 
 
 Best Quality Granite and Marble Work of all kinds. 
 
 Iron Railings and Tomb Furnishings fitted 
 complete 
 
 Plans. Prices, and Carnage free Terms to all parts 
 of the World, from 
 
 LEGGE, SCULPTOR, 
 
 ABERGAVENNY. 
 
 fFOURIST and FAMILIES are offered every accommodation 
 
 I at the 44 ANGEL HOTEL,” with moderate Charges; the Right of Fishing in the 
 Association Waters, free of charge. Billiards. Posting. Good Stabling. 
 
 PHILIP MORGAN, Proprietor. 
 
 ABERYSTWITH. 
 
 THE QUEEN’S HOTEL, 
 
 A First-class Family Establishment. 
 
 'IHIIS Hotel stands on the best part of the Marine Terraco, 
 
 L facing, and is within fifty yards of the sea at all times of the tide. Ladies' Drawing 
 Room, Assembly Room. Billiard Rooms, with numerous Private Sitting Rooms, and upwards 
 of One Hundred Bed Rooms. 
 
 Board, Residence, and Attendance (inclusive terms), £4 4s. per Week. 
 
 TABLE D’HdTE AT SEVEN O’CLOCK. 
 
 Tariff free on application to il The Manager , Queen* Hotel, Abenjiticith." 
 Omnibuses await the arrival of every Train. 
 
 A I G L E (Switzerland). 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DES BAINS, 
 
 First Cl ass Hydropathic Establishment. 
 
 Russian Baths, Turkish Baths, Salt Baths, Baths of Spring 
 Water, and with Pine Knots. 
 
 Arrangements made for lengthened stay on advantageous term*. 
 English Church Service. 
 
 CHARLES HEINRICH, Manager. 
 
 Now ready, post 8vo. Bs. 
 
 THR CICERONE; or, Art Guide to Painting in Italy. For 
 
 A the use of Travellers. By Dr. Jacob BobCKHARDT. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 AMSTERDAM. 
 
 AMSTEL HOTEL. 
 
 B UILT Seven Years ago. Situated near the Bhenish Bailway 
 Station, the Zoological and Botanical Gardens, &c. Cheerful view 
 of the City and the Amstel River. Patronised by English and American 
 Families. First-rate Table and excellent Wines. 
 
 Terms Moderate. 
 
 Telegraph Office and Stables attached to the Hotel, 
 
 ANTWERP. 
 
 TTATET. ST A N'TOT'NT.. 
 
 A I X LES BAINS. 
 
 RAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 Proprietor, J. BERNASCON. 
 
 HRST-CLASS House, admirably situated near the Casino, 
 the Baths, and the English Church. This Hotel is 
 rongly recommended to travellers for the comfort of its 
 rangements. Good Gardens, with a beautiful view of the 
 ake and Mountains. Large and small Apartments for Families 
 moderate prices, and a Chalet in the Garden for Families 
 ho may prefer being out of the Hotel. Excellent Table- 
 Hote, 
 
 arriages for hire, and an Omnibus belonging to the 
 Hotel to meet every Train. 
 
 B 3 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
8 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 ABERDEEN. 
 
 POLISHED GRANITE MONUMENTS, 
 
 FROM £5. 
 
 Letter Cutting Accurate and Beautiful. 
 
 Best Quality Granite and Marble IVork of all kinds. 
 
 Iron Railings and Tomb Furnishings fitted 
 complete 
 
 Plans, Prices, and Carriage-free Terms to all parts 
 of the World, from 
 
 LEGGE, SCULPTOR, 
 
 ABERGAVENNY. 
 
 r r()r];iST and FAMILIES are offered every accommodation 
 
 I at the “ANGEL HOTEL,” with moderate Charges; the Right of Fishing in the 
 Association Waters, free of charge. Billiards. Posting. Good Stabling. 
 
 PHILIP MOKGAN, Proprietor. 
 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
1874. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 9 
 
 AMSTERDAM. 
 
 AMSTEL HOTEL. 
 
 B UILT Seven Years ago. Situated near the Khenish Kailway 
 Station, the Zoological and Botanical Gardens, &c. Cheerful view 
 of the City and the Amstel River. Patronised by English and American 
 Families. First-rate Table and excellent Wines. 
 
 Terms Moderate. 
 
 Telegraph Office and Stables attached to the Hotel . 
 
 ANTWERP. 
 
 HOTEL ST. ANTOINE, 
 
 PLACE VERTE, 
 
 OPPOSITE THE CATHEDRAL. 
 
 r J\HIS Excellent first-class Hotel, which enjoys the 
 well-merited favour of Families and Tourists, has been 
 repurchased by its old and well-known Proprietor, Mr. Schmitt- 
 Spaenhoven; who, with his Partner, will do everything in 
 their power to render the visit of all persons who may honour 
 them with their patronage as agreeable and comfortable as 
 possible. 
 
 Baths iri the Hotel. 
 
 With moderate Prices. 
 
 Second Edition, with Woodcuts, post 8vo. 10s. 6d. 
 
 T IVES OP THE EARLY FLEMISH PAINTERS ; with 
 
 -L/ Notices of their Works. By J. A. Crowe and G. B. Cavalcaselle. 
 
 “ The work of Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle on the early painters of the Flemish School 
 performs for them something of the same function which Kiigler’s Handbook accomplished 
 for the Italian painters. The execution exhibits cautious self-reliance, with a wide and 
 diligent study, and a calm and clear but not cold presentiment of the subject." — Spectator. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
 b 3 
 
10 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May. 
 
 ANTWE R P. 
 
 HOTEL DU GRAND LABOUREUR, 
 
 PLACE DE MEIR, 26. 
 
 THIS old-established and highly-recommended Hotel, which 
 has been considerably enlarged, is situated in the finest and 
 healthiest square of the city of Antwerp ; its cleanliness, and 
 the excellency of tho Table-d’Hote and Wines, added to the 
 attention and civility shown to all visitors, have made it 
 deservedly popular. 
 
 HOT AND COLD BATHS. 
 
 ENGLISH AND FRENCH NEWSPAPERS. 
 
 ANTWERP. 
 
 TVo. *>. Place Verte. 
 
 Mb. J. J. L A M B E R T f Proprietor. 
 
 THIS HOTEL, near the Entrance to the Cathedral, is 
 
 recommended by Visitors from Kngland and America, for comfort and 
 moderate chaige*. The Proprietor apeak* English. 
 
 The Post-office and Ruben** Statue are situated in the Place Verte. 
 
 W ith IlliiHtrationa, 2 vols., pont 8vo. 24*. 
 
 H andbook to the german, flemish, and 
 
 DUTCH SCHOOLS OF PAINTING. Baaed on the Work of 
 KUgler. Edited, with Notes, by Dr. W aagfv und J. A. Crow*. 
 
 - Knowing that many reaearchr* hare rrcniily been made relating to the German. 
 Hetniah. and Imtch Sc noola, we were |4Tdiapu«fd to anticipate a work, greatly Improved 
 npon it* f»rwVo^or. After attentive examination we are gtaUfled to bud our 
 fully realised. We warmly commend the work to the lor era of the quaintly rbararterlMic 
 jrtd twauttlul prodoctkma of northern art."— Daily Seim. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, A LB KM A RLE STREET. 
 
1874 , 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 U 
 
 AVRANCHES— NORMANDY. 
 
 O NE of the most agreeable places of residence in France, situated on 
 a mountain. Proverbial for its pure air, commanding the admirable Bay of St, 
 Michael’s Mount, charming walks, cheap living, and good lodgings, with every comfort, 
 A Protestant Church and Chaplain ; six hours’ journey only from Jersey, and at a short 
 distance from four different lines of railway. 
 
 Avranches offers every incentive from its attractions for the English, with whom it has 
 always been a favourite residence. The best Hotel is the “ HOTEL DE LONDRES 
 clean, with moderate prices, and a large garden. English spoken. 
 
 M. FATJVEL, Proprietor, 
 
 AUG. ANFRAY and LEBEL keep the French and English Library. 
 
 ANTWERP. 
 
 HOTEL DU DANEMAECK.— Second-Class Hotel, very 
 
 LT well situated, just opposite the landing-place of the London and Hamburg Steamers. 
 Very good and clean Rooms, at moderate Prices. Good attendance. English and French 
 Newspapers taken in. Table d’Hote at 1 and 5 o’clock. English, French, and German 
 spoken. Restaurant. N.B. — This Hotel has been newly re-fitted up and improved by 
 M. EGEL1E, the new Proprietor, who endeavours by the most strict attention to deserve the 
 patronage of English Travellers. 
 
 A R G E L E S (Hautes Pyrenees). 
 HOTEL D E FRANCE. 
 
 T HIS Hotel is situated on the Road from Eaux Bonnes to Catjterets, 
 
 Lnz, and St. Sauveur. It is chosen by a great many Tourists as their head- quarters. 
 Excursions are made from here to Cauterets, Luz, St. Sauveur, and the Valley d’Arrens, 
 English spoken. 
 
 BADEN-BADEN. 
 
 VICTORIA. HOTEL. 
 
 Proprietor, Mr. FRANZ GROSKOLZ. 
 
 TVHXS is one of the finest built and best furnished First-class 
 
 Hotels, situated on the new Promenade, near the Kursaal and Theatre ; it 
 commands the most charming views in Baden. It is reputed to be one of the best 
 Hotels in Germany. The Table and Wines are excellent, with prompt attendance 
 and great civility. Prices very moderate. English and other Journals. 
 
 BADEN-BADEN. 
 
 HOTEL DE HOLLANDE and Dependance. 
 
 AU BEAU SEJOIJR. — A. Roessler, Proprietor. This favourite and first-class 
 Hotel, situated near the Kursaal, Promenade, and Theatre, commands one of the most 
 charming views in Baden. The Hotel and Dependance consist of One Hundred and Sixty 
 Sleeping Apartments, elegant Sitting-rooms, and a Garden for the use of visitors. Extensive 
 and airy Dining-room, and a comfortable Public Sitting-room, with Piano and Library. It, is 
 conducted under the immediate superintendence of the Proprietor, who endeavours, by the 
 most strict, attention and exceedingly Moderate Prices, to merit the continued patronage of 
 English and American visitors. English and American Newspapers. The Table d’Hote and 
 Wines of this Hotel are reputed of the best quality in Baden. Fixed moderate charges for 
 everything. Rooms from 2s. and upwards. 
 
 PENSION in the early and later part of the Season. 
 
12 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 HOTEL DES ETRANGERS, 
 
 Near the Royal Palace. 
 
 lu tbo most delightful situation, opposite the Royal Gardens, near the Palace. The boat 
 Hotel in Athens. Moderate prices; good attendance. All languages spoken. 
 
 BADEN-BADEN. 
 
 HOTEL H O Y A. L. 
 
 Proprietor — Mr. J. TH. KAUB. 
 
 "piRST-RATE Hotel for Families and Single Gentlemen, 
 A close to the Station. Kursaal and Promenade. Table d’Hote. Private 
 Pinner to order. English spoken by all the attendants. The utmost attention 
 and civility. Reading-room. The Hotel is superintended by the new Proprietor, 
 who has lived 10 years in England, during which time he travelled with 
 Charles Dickens, Esq., the Duke of Sutherland, and other distinguished English 
 families. — Mr. KAUB exports Wines to England. 
 
 BALE. 
 
 HOT El., SCHRIEDER, 
 
 /APPOSITE the German Railway Station for Baden-Baden, Frankfort, etc., also 
 ^ to Scbaflfhausen (Rhinefall), Zurich, and any other Swiss Town. I,arge Rooms with 
 Saloons. Special Saloons lor Ladies. English and French Newspapers. Post and Telegraph 
 Offices. Very moderate charges. Omnibus at the Station. 
 
 BERNE (Switzerland). 
 
 MUSICAL BOXES, 
 
 WOOD CARVINGS, SCULPTURES, to., to., 
 
 OP 
 
 J. H. HELLER 
 
 AT BERNE. 
 
 No such Selection anywhere else, and, above all, 
 Large Music-performing Articles. 
 
 ORCHESTRIONS. ELECTRIC PIANOS. 
 
 Concert every evening during the Seaton. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 13 
 
 BAGNERES-DE-BIGORRE (Haute Pyrenees.) 
 
 HOTEL HE PARIS. 
 
 LARGE FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL 
 
 With over 100 Large and Small 
 
 SALOONS AND CHAMBERS. 
 
 RESTAURANT. 
 
 TABLE D’HOTE. 
 LARGE GARDEN 
 
 FACING THE 
 
 PROMENADE DE CAUSTONS, 
 
 Well known to English Families, 
 
 FULL SOUTH. 
 
 MOUNTAIN GUIDES. 
 
 B. NOGUES, Proprietor. 
 
14 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 Mi\y, 
 
 BARCELONA. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DES QUATRE NATIONS, 
 
 » 
 
 IN THE XAMBLA. 
 
 Kept by Messrs. FORTIS & CO. 
 
 / * I — rrl t l — . 
 
 r PHIS is a first-rate Establishment, advantageously situated close to 
 
 the Post-office and the Theatre, with a southern aspect, and newly decorated. Table- 
 d'hOte; private service; large and small apartments; many fire-places; baths; reading- 
 
 rooms ; Spanish and foreign newspapers. Carriages of every description. Omnibus at the 
 Railway Stations. Interpreters. Moderate terms. 
 
 BELFORT. 
 
 Hotel de l’Ancienne Poste, 
 
 Situated facing the Castle and the Forts, the best position in the Town ; it is 
 highly praised by all its Patrons. 
 
 BERLIN. 
 
 HOTEL D ’ A N GLETERRE, 
 
 2, PLACE AN DER BAUACADEMIE, 2. 
 
 situated in the finest and most elegant part of the town, 
 
 Near to the Royal Palaces, Museums, and Theatres. 
 
 Single travellers and large families can be accommodated with entire suites of Apartments, 
 consisting of splendid Saloons, airy Bedrooms, <kc„ all furnished and carpeted in the best 
 English style. First-rate Table-d'Hdte, Baths, Equipages, Guides. Times and Galignani's 
 Messenger taken in. Residence of Her British Majesty's Messengers. 
 
 R. SIEBELIST, Proprietor. 
 
 BORDEAUX. 
 
 H6TEL DE PARIS. 
 
 First-class Hotel, situated in the Promenade des Qninconces, in the centre and most agreeable 
 
 part of the Town. 
 
 MUCH FU1QUENTED BT ENGLISH AND AMERICAN TRAVELLERS, 
 
 BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL, Christol. 
 
 First-class Hotel. 
 
 Best. Situation in the Town. Highly recommended 
 for Families and Gentlemen. 
 
 F. CHRISTOL, Proprietor and Manager. 
 
874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 15 
 
 BIARRITZ. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL, 
 
 OR 
 
 MAISON GARDERES. 
 
 Branch of the HOTEL BE FRANCE. 
 SPLENDID HOUSE, 
 
 SITUATED IN THE FINEST POSITION. IS RECOMMENDED FOR 
 ITS GREAT COMFORT. 
 
 Charges extremely Moderate for Winter. 
 
 English Spoken. 
 
 CASINO DE BIARRITZ. 
 
 THIS immense Establishment, built on the Shores of the 
 
 1 Ocean, near the Plage, and ^ '*** entUelj 
 
 V TltIi^ TsT, aX^sistiiig of a hundred Apartments, tenished 
 
 . are attached a Hydropathic Chamber, and very complete Douche Baths. A1 
 Stoves for Russian. Baths. 
 
 3rd. A CASINO, consisting of— 
 
 A Magnificent Terrace— A Covered Promenade 
 — A Ball Room — A Conversation Room — A 
 Private Boudoir for Ladies — A Reading Room 
 and Library— A Billiard Room— Two Gaming 
 Rooms as at Baden— Magnificent Dining Rooms, 
 Restaurant, and Cafe, 
 
 Which together present an ensemble unique in 1 the world | ^ ^ endld 
 
 position, and the magnificent panorama which is displayed before . 
 
 \ Theatre opeii all the Year. 
 
 4th. The Casino is arranged for the Summer a “ d H^fSber ^“oms 
 Summer, which commences the 1st July and finishes the 31^ 0c tobei^K 
 and Board are provided at all Prices The Saloons are open to the P«*hc toi 
 1 fr. during the day, and 1 ft. at night; or a S«^r.ptionof30 fr - a “ onth h 
 During: Winter, which commences the 1st Novembei and finishes th . 
 1st July? there is a PENSION ANGLAISE, at 6 fr. 50 c a day, including 
 Bodging, Food, Service, and the entree to the Saloons of the Casino. 
 
 The Heating is done by Steam Pipes. 
 
16 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 BRISTOL. 
 
 ROYAL HOTEL, COLLEGE GREEN. 
 
 THIRST -CLASS. Central, and pleasantly situated. Very 
 
 A spacious Coffee, Dining, Reading, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. Private 
 Apartments en suite. One Hundred and Twenty Bed-rooms, Steam Lift and 
 laundry. Hot and Cold Baths. Telegraph Office and Post-office in the Hotel, 
 Fixed Charges. All Omnibuses pass the door. Night Porter kept. 
 
 W. SWANSON, Manager. 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 QRAND HOTEL DE SAXE, 77 and 79, RUE NEUVE. Admirably situated 
 near the Boulevards, Theatres, and two minutes’ walk from the North Railway 
 Stations. This Establishment, which has been considerably enlarged, possesses now a mo-t 
 splendid Dining-room, and offers to Families and Single Travellers spacious, comfortable, 
 and airy Apartments. Tariff's in every Room .— Fixed Prices: — Plain Breakfast llr. 25c. 
 Two chops or steak, or ham and eggs, lfr. 50c. Table d'Hote at five o’clock, 3fr. 60c. Pri- 
 vate Dinners from 5fr. Bed-rooms, including light, 4fr. 25c. ; 3fr. t6c. ; 6fr. for the first 
 night, and for the following night 3fr. 50c. ; 3fr. : 5fr. ; and 4fr. Sitting-rooms from 3fr. to 
 12fr. Attendance lfr. per night. Ixmdon “Times*’ and “Illustrated l»ndon News" 
 taken in. Travellers having only a few hours to spend in Brussels, between the departure 
 of the trains, can have refreshments or dinners at any hour. The Waterloo Coach leaves 
 the Hotel at 9.30 o’clock every morning. Private Carriages for Waterloo 28fr., every 
 expense included, 
 
 XERVAND, Proprietor. 
 
 Now ready, price Gd., bound in cloth, gilt edges. 
 
 THE GRAPHIC 
 
 FOREIGN POCKET HOTEL GUIDE. 
 
 Containing a complete List of the 
 
 PRINCIPAL HOTELS 
 
 Of the CHIEF TOWNS OF EUROPE in the 
 
 ROUTES OF TRAVELLERS AND TOURISTS. 
 
 By consulting this book, the trouble of inquiry and search through bulky Guide 
 Volumes is avoided, and for the greater convenience this Guide can be 
 
 Carried in the Waistcoat Pocket. 
 
 SOLD AT ALL BAILWAY BOOKSTALLS, 
 
 AND AT 
 
 THE GRAPHIC OFFICE, 190, STRAND, LONDON, W.C. 
 
1874. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 17 
 
 BONN. 
 
 THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL. 
 
 mHIS first-rate and unrivalled Hotel, patronised by tbe 
 English Eoyal Family, Nobility, and Gentry, is the 
 nearest Hotel to the Eailway Station, and to the Landing- 
 places of the Ehine Steamers. 
 
 The Proprietor, Mr. J, SCHMITZ, begs leave to recommend 
 his Hotel to Tourists. 
 
 The Apartments are comfortably furnished and carpeted in 
 the best style, and the charges are moderate. 
 
 Arrangements for the Winter may be made, on the most 
 moderate terms. 
 
 BRUGES. 
 
 G RAND HOTEL DU COMMERCE, near the GRAND PLACE and the 
 
 Railway Station. This first-rate Establishment, the largest and oldest of the town, is in high reputation 
 by English Families for its well-furnished and splendid Apartments, its excellent Accommodation, good 
 Cuisine, and Wines. A good Omnibus 'conveys Travellers and Luggage to and from the Railway Station. 
 Mr. VANDENBERGHE in recommending his Hotel to the notice of Visitors begs they will not permit them- 
 selves to be misled by touters. 
 
 BRUGES. 
 
 HOTEL DE FLANDRE. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS HOUSE. Table d’Hote at 1 and 5 o’clock. Beautiful Garden. 
 
 Hot and Cold Baths. Arrangements can be made at any time during the year by the 
 week or month. 
 
 PENSION during Winter, commencing at £6 per Month, 
 
 With Map and Plans, post 8vo. 6s. 
 
 H andbook to Holland, Belgium, and the ehine 
 
 to MAYENCE. 
 
 With Map and Plans, post 8vo. 6s. 
 
 H andbook to north Germany, Prussia, saxony, 
 
 HANOVElt, and the RHINE from MAYENCE to SWITZER- 
 LAND. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
18 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 - 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 HOTEL DE BELLE VUE. 
 
 Proprietor, Mr. EDWARD DREMEL. 
 
 'jpHIS magnificent Hotel, in offering to the Visitor every 
 kind of comfort and accommodation, has the great advantage of 
 being situated adjoining 
 
 THE PALACE OF THE KING, 
 
 and facing 
 
 THE PLACE ROYALE AND THE PARK. 
 
 • v V/ ^ Fl Li 
 
 It contains numerous large and small Apartments, as well as single 
 Rooms. 
 
 Table-cCIIute , richly served. Choice Wines . 
 
 SMOKING- ROOM. 
 
 KEADVNO ROO.Vf, with the be»t Rclgiau, Eii|ili»h, French' 
 4»crmun, and American Daily Paper* and Periodical*. 
 
 Terraces, with Splendid View overlooking the Park. 
 
 ARRANGEMENTS MADE FOR THE WINTER. 
 
 Mr. Drkmel, the new Proprietor of this Hotel, hopes to justify the 
 confidence plaoed in him, by a carefully arranged system of prompt and 
 civil attendance, combined with moderate charges. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HAN6B00K ADVERTISER. 
 
 19 
 
 BRUSSELS 
 
 HOTEL DE L’UNIYERS, 
 
 rj^HIS first-class Hotel, which is situated in the centre of 
 the Town, opposite the new passage, near the Theatres, 
 the Promenade, and the beautiful Place des Martyrs, has 
 just been entirely refitted by the new Proprietor, Mr. 
 Frederic Schoeffter, well known for his long connection as 
 Manager of the Hotel St. Antoine, Antwerp. 
 
 The Hotel de PUnivers may now be considered as one of 
 the best Hotels in Brussels. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE GENEVE. 
 
 IRST-CLASS HOUSE, situated outside the town, in a 
 
 shaded position, and large Garden. Close to the new 
 Church of the Holy Trinity . Sea View. Special arrangements 
 made for lengthened sojourn. Service a la Carte. 
 
 HUE NEUVE 
 
 CANNES 
 
 OMNIBUS TO THE STATION. 
 
 ED. SCHMID, Proprietor, 
 
20 MUKKAY’S HANDBOOK ADVEKTISER. M«y, 
 
 CHAMBERY (Savoy). 
 
 HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 THIRST-CLASS HOTEL, entirely refurnished, patronised 
 1 chiefly by families and tourists. Baths in the Hotel. English spoken. 
 A pleasant excursion to the “ Grand Chartreuse ” can bo made in one day. 
 Travellers going to Italy will have the advantage of stopping the night in 
 Chambery, and passing through the tunnel of Alps by day. This Hotel 
 requires to be s(*en to be appreciated. 
 
 CHAMBERY. 
 
 HOTEL DE FRANCE. 
 
 Mr. CHIRON, late Proprietor. 
 
 L. REYNAUD, Successor. 
 
 A NEW Establishment, situated upon the Quay Nesin, in 
 
 an open, airy situation, close to the Railway Station. Large and small 
 Apartments, scrupulously clean. 
 
 TABLE D KOTE AT 11 AND 6 O’CLOCK. 
 
 C H AM ON I X. 
 
 HOTEL DES ALPES. 
 
 A VERY COMFORTABLE HOTEL. Splendid view from 
 every side of the house. First-rate cuisine. Hot and Cold Baths 
 in the house. English, French, and German Newspaj>ers. Moderate 
 charges, and reduction for long residence. 
 
 KLOTZ, Proprietor. 
 CHAU MONT (near Neuchatel, Switzerland). 
 
 HOTEL AND PENSION DE CHAUMONT, 
 
 C. RITZMANN, Proprietor. 
 
 The Season opens on 1st May. 
 
 T HIS Hotel, exceedingly well situated for an extensive view 
 
 of the magnificent Panorama of the Alps and the surrounding scenery, contains 
 large and small Apartment*, Saloons, Dining-rooms, Billiard and Reading-rooms, 
 Private Suites of Rooms for Families. Bath-rooms. New milk and whey supplied on 
 the premises. Leading country and foreign Newspajjers. Telegraph Station and Post- 
 office here. Moderate charges. Pension terms reduced in May, June, and September, 
 Daily Omnibus fairing Nruchatcl at 9 every morning. 
 
t8?4. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 21 
 
 CHRISTIANIA. (Norway.) 
 
 HOTEL SCANDINAVIE. 
 
 fpHIS beautifully situated Hotel is well known by the 
 
 English Nobility for its Cleanliness, Good Attendance, and Moderate 
 
 Prices. 
 
 CHR. ATJGr. SMITH, Proprietor. 
 
 COBLENTZ. 
 
 THE ANCHOR HOTEL. 
 
 Mr. W. PRANG, Proprietor. 
 
 THIS well-known and highly recommended establishment, 
 
 which combines superior comfort and first-class accommodation, with careful 
 attendance and moderate charges, is situated just opposite the landing-place of the 
 Steamers, and commands a magnificent view of the Rhine and the Castle of Ehren- 
 breitenstein. It is conducted in a manner to be found well worthy of the patronage 
 it enjoys of English and American families and travellers. Excellent Cooking. 
 Choice Wines. Foreign Papers. Cold and Warm Baths, and elegant Carriages in 
 the Hotel. Omnibus at the Station. 
 
 CONSTANTINE (ALGERIA). 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE PARIS, 
 
 Place Nemours, Hues Rationale, Caraman and Cahoreau. 
 
 Proprietor—Mme. Vve. SALLES. 
 
 N. C. DALMAN, Manager . 
 
 I ^IfiST-OLASS House, in the style oi the large Paris Hotels ; 
 
 the largest, the most important, and the most recent of Algerian Hotels. 
 Newly constructed in the finest quarter of the city, in the centre of affairs, this 
 Establishment fulfils every desirable condition. Large and small Apartments for 
 families, vast Saloons, and Bath Rooms. Is recommended for comfort and careful 
 personal attention. The most complete information on all that concerns commerce 
 is afforded to travellers, and Guides for those who wish to explore the environs, so 
 remarkable from their geological conformation, historical associations, and the 
 remains of Roman dominion. Prices moderate. 
 
 Hotel Omnibus to each train. Voitnres de Remise. The Office of Correspond- 
 ence of Railway and Diligences for Batna, Biskara, the Desert of Sahara, Setif, 
 Ain-Beida, and Tebessa is situated below the Hotel. 
 
mukkay's handbook advkrtisrr. m.v 
 
 COLOGNE ON THE RHINE. 
 
 JOIIANN MA RTA FARINA, 
 GEGENUBER DEM JULICII’S PLATZ 
 
 (Opposite the Jlillch's Place), 
 
 PUKVKYOR TO H. M. QUKKN VICTORIA; 
 
 TO H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALKS; 
 
 TU H. M. THE KING OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OK RUSSIA; 
 THE EMPEROR OF FRANCE; 
 
 THE KING OF DENMARK, ETC. ETC., 
 
 OF THE 
 
 ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE, 
 
 IVfcicA obtained the only Prize Petal awarded to Kau de < 'ologve at the Pane Exhibition 
 
 rtf 1867. 
 
 T HE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but for the most 
 part the result of deception practised by Interested Individuals, induces me to request 
 the attention of English travellers to the following statement 
 
 The favourable reputation which my Eau de Cologne has acquired, since its invention by 
 my ancestor In the year 1709, has induced many people to Imitate it ; and in order to be able 
 to sell their spurious article more easily, and under pretext that it was genuine, they pro« 
 cured themselves a firm of Farina, by entering into partnership with persons of my name, 
 which is a very common one in Italy. 
 
 Persons who wish to purchase the genuine and original Eau de Cologne ought to be parti 
 cular to see that the labels and the bottles have not only my name, Johann Maria Fanna, 
 lmt also the additional words, grgeniiber dem Ji'dich't I’latx (that is, opposite the Julich’s 
 Place), without addition of any number. 
 
 Travellers visiting Cologne, and Intending to buy my genuine article, are cautioned against 
 being led astray by cabmen, guides, commissioners, and other parties, who offer their services 
 to them. I therefore beg to state that my manufacture and shop are in the some bouse, 
 situated opposite the Juiich's Place, and nowhere else. It happens too, frequently, that the 
 said persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where, 
 notwithstanding assertion to the contrary, they are remunerated with nearly the half part of 
 the price paid by the purchaser, who, of course, must pay indirectly this remuneration by a 
 high price and a bad article. 
 
 Another kind of imposition is practised in almost every hotel in Cologne, where waiters, 
 commissioners, Ac., offer to strangers Ean de Cologne, pretending that It is the genuine one, 
 and that I delivered It to them for the purpose of selling it for my account. 
 
 The only certain way to g**t in Cologne my genuine article is to buy It personally at my 
 bouse. opposite the Juiich’s Plane, farming the comer of the two streets, Untcf Goldschmidt 
 and Oben Maropforten, No. 23, arid having In the front six balconies, of which the three 
 boar my oanie and firm, Johann Maria Fanna, Gegrnliber dem Juiich’s Plata. 
 
 The excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the fact that the 
 Jurors of the Great Exhibitions in Londoo. 1H&1 and 1 m« 2, awarded to me Ibo Pri»e Medal ; 
 that I obtained honourable mention at the Great Exhibition in Paris, D>66; and received 
 the or.ly Prise M*dal awarded to Kau do Cologne at the Paris Exhibition of 1*67, and in 
 Oporto 1»6S. 
 
 Co loo x a, January, 1969. JOHANN MARIA KARINA, 
 
 GKGE.nCBSR DEM JUUCH'S PLATZ. 
 
 %• J. fc K. M*Ceackkw, 38, intern Stred, Cannon Sired, F. C„ 
 
 are my Sole Agents for (treat Pritain ami Irelami, 
 
874. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 CONSTANCE. 
 
 28 
 
 HOTEL DU BROCHET (HECHT HOTEL). 
 
 First-class Establisement, situated opposite the Harbour and the Lake. 
 Excellent Pension . Table d’Hote at 1 and 5 o’clock, Spacious house, 
 very clean, quiet, and well furnished. The Proprietor has the sole right 
 of fishing in the Rhine. Boats and all appliances for Fishing. Prices 
 very moderate. French and English Papers. 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. 
 
 JAMES MISSIRIE, Proprietor. 
 
 'THIS long-established and well-known Hotel, situated in 
 A the GRAND RUE DE PERA, commanding a magnificent view of 
 the UNRIVALLED BOSPHORUS, is replete with every comfort and 
 convenience for the Accommodation of Families and Tourists. 
 
 A Select Table D’Hote. 
 
 In consequence of the largely increasing number of Visitors to the 
 OTTOMAN CAPITAL, from the facility with which it can now be 
 reached from all parts of Europe, and Passengers who select this agreeable 
 Route to and from INDIA and the EAST, it is requested that Families 
 desirous of securing Rooms telegraph or write in anticipation. Every 
 attention will be paid to instructions thus transmitted. 
 
 CAREFULLY SELECTED INTERPRETERS FOR ALL 
 LANGUAGES. 
 
 The Attendants and \ Boats of the Hotel await the arrival of the Steamers . 
 
 COPENHAGEN. 
 
 HOTEL KONGEN AF DENMARK. 
 
 A FIRST-CLASS 
 
 ENGLISH FAMILY iHOTEL. 
 
 THIS Hotel is situated close to the King’s New Market, near to 
 
 -** Thorwalden’s Museum and the Royal Palace ; it offers to Families and 
 single tourists every comfort and great cleanliness. It contains 100 Bedrooms 
 and Saloons from 2 dol. 10 s. English Newspapers. Baths and Lavatory. French 
 and German Cookery, Table d’hote. Carriage at the Station. All Languages 
 spoken. 
 
24 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 CORFU. 
 
 HOTEL ST. GEORGE. | 
 
 fUHIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL is very well situated, on the 
 north comer of the Esplanade, and close to tho Royal 
 Palace. It is fitted up after the English style, and is one of 
 the most comfortable Hotels, affording first-rate accommodation < 
 for Families and Single Gentlemen. 
 
 Splendid furnished Apartments, with Pianoforto. Hot Bath- 
 room. Table d’Hote ; Private Dinners. English and Foreign 
 Newspapers. Reading-room, Smoking-room, and Billiard-room. 
 Magnificent Carriages and Horses. Everything neat, elegant, 1 
 and at moderate charges. English, German, and French spoken. 
 
 Under the patronage of King George the First, tho Emperor 
 of Austria, and the Grand Duke of Mecklenburgh. 
 
 A Succursale en Pension for Families . 
 
 DIEPPE. 
 
 HOTEL LOYAL, 
 
 FACING THE BEACH, 
 
 Close to the Bathing Establishment and the Parade. 
 
 (this hotel is open all the year.) 
 
 }T IS ONE OF THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS 
 1 IN DIEPPE, commanding a beautiful and extensive View of the 
 Sea. 
 
 Families and Gentlemen visiting Dieppe will find at this Establish- 
 ment elegant Large and Small Apartments, and the best of accommo- 
 dation, at very reasonable prices. Large Reading-room, with trench 
 and English Newspapers. 
 
 The Refreshments, &c., are of the best quality. 
 
 In fact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the favourable opinion 
 expressed of it in Murray’s and other Guide Books. 
 
 Table d'Hote and Private Dinners. 
 
1874. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. " 25 
 
 DIJON. 
 
 HOTEL DU JURA. 
 
 Mr. DAVID, Proprietor, 
 
 T HIS Hotel, which has been considerably enlarged, is a 
 first-class house, and the nearest to the Kail way Station. 
 Contains five Salons, sixty Bed-rooms en suite for Families, 
 Drawing-room, Smoking-room, Table-d’hote ; Private Service. 
 Carriages for Drives; Omnibus to all the trains. French, 
 English, and German Papers. English and German spoken. 
 Bureau de Change in the Hotel, where English Bank Notes 
 can be exchanged. A first-rate cellar of the finest Burgundy 
 Wines. Exportation of Burgundy Wines. 
 
 Hotel du Parc kept by the same Proprietor, where 
 Visitors are taken en pension at reduced Prices. 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 VICTORIA HOTEL, 
 
 JjpHIS fine large Establishment, situated on the public 
 
 Promenade of the English and American quarter, in the immediate vicinity 
 of all the curiosities, contains One Hundred Rooms. Table d’Hote at One and 
 Five o’clock. 
 
 The Garden of the Hotel affords its guests an agreeable Promenade . i 
 | CARRIAGES. 
 
 READING ROOM WITH ENGLISH AND AMERICAN PAPERS. 
 
 To Families or Single Persons desirous of taking Apart- 
 ments for the Winter, advantageous arrangements will be 
 offered. 
 
 Proprietor and Manager of the Hotel , 
 
 CARL WEISS. 
 
 c 
 
26 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 1 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 HOTEL BELLEVUE, DRESDEN. 
 
 Kept by Mr. EMIL KAYSER. 
 
 rpHIS fine large Establishment, situated on the banks of the Elbe, between the 
 two beautiful bridges, facing the Theatre, Museum, and Catholic Cathedral, 
 adjoining the Briihl’s Terrace, and opposite the Royal Palace and Green Vaults, 
 contains One Hundred Front Rooms. These apartments combine elegance and 
 comfort, and most of them fronting either the Theatre Square, or public walks 
 and gardens of the Hotel, and command fine views of the River, Bridges, and 
 distant Mountains. The Gardens of the Hotel afford its guests an agreeable and 
 private Promenade. Table d’Hote at one and five o’clock. Private Dinners at any 
 hour. To families or single persons desirous of taking apartments for the winter, 
 very advantageous arrangements will be offered, and every effort made to render 
 their residence in the Hotel pleasant and comfortable. Carriages, Baths, Riding. 
 Billiard and Smoking Rooms. Ladies’ Parlour. 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 Close by the Gallery and Hotel Belle Vue, 
 OSTRALLEE-STALLSTRASSE, 1. 
 
 HANS HANFSTAENGL, 
 HjjBtograjjlwr to tbc |Ujial flfoiuf. 
 
 PHOTOGRAPHS OF PICTURES OF DRESDEN GALLERY. 
 
 Serape and elegantly hound Album*. 
 
 P.U.BIi TSHF.RS' PRICES. 
 
, 
 
 874. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 2 1 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 HOTEL GOLDNER ENGEL. 
 
 r HIS first-class Hotel, kept by Jos. Henrion, is situated 
 in the centre of the Curiosities, close to the Boyal Palace 
 md Museums. 
 
 Splendid hot and cold Baths are to be had in the Hotel. 
 English and French Newspapers. 
 
 A reduction of price in the Winter to families who remain 
 ‘or some period. 
 
 EGYPT. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA AND CAIRO. 
 
 $}g JSpmsl Appointment to fLft.jp. % ^rinte of Wales, 
 
 an!) f . f . % ’ 5 ®8ij IfbeCiitie of €ggpt. 
 
 DAYID ROBERTSON & CO., 
 
 Englisli Booksellers, Stationers, Photograph Vendors, 
 and General Commission Agents, 
 
 10, Grand Square, Alexandria, and The Ezbekieh, Cairo* 
 
 A Register of English and American Travellers is kept at the above 
 Establishment. A very extensive Stock of Photographs of Egypt and Syria 
 kept on hand ; and Visitors will receive any assistance or information they 
 may require. 
 
 English and Indian Newspapers by every Mail, 
 
 TAUCHNITZ EDITIONS. 
 
 Passages secured. Baggage collected and forwarded. Letters received and posted 
 
 to all countries. 
 
 DAVID ROBERTSON AND CO., 
 
 _ ALEXANDRIA AND CAIRO. 
 
 ENGELBERG (near Lucerne* Switzerland)* 
 
 HOTEL AND PENSION DU TITLIS, 
 
 CATTANl, Proprietor. 
 
 THIS New Hotel is fitted out with every comfort; contain- 
 ing Eighty Beds, Ladies’ Sitting-room, Reading, Billiard, and Smoking Rooms. English, 
 French, and German Newspapers. English Service every Sunday. The best starting-place 
 for ascending Mont Titlis (18 miles) ; good Guides ; tariff, 10 frs., the same as at Engstlen 
 (See Berlepsch). Very nice Excursions on the Glaciers of Ure-Rothstock, Schlossberg, and 
 
 Grossen. A 
 
 HOTEL and I»Ei\8IO]l T IME belonging to the same 
 
 Proprietor. Excellent Hotel ; clean and well-furnished Rooms at moderate prices. Wanri 
 and Cold Baths. 
 
 C 9 
 
•is iiURRAY’S iiAUDbOOK AbVER't'ISEk. shij'i 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 7, LUNG’ ARNO CORS'IN I: 
 
 G. MONTELATICI, ! : 
 
 MANUFACTURER OF FLORENTINE MOSAICS; 
 
 •assortment of (Caskets anD albums; 
 
 COMMISSION AND EXPORTATION. 
 
 SlfCOURSALE, BADEN-BADEN, Opposite the h6tEL D’ANGLETERRE, 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 P. ROMANELLI, 
 
 Sculptor, Pupil of, and Successor to, the late Professor Bartollni, has opened a Gallery, 
 
 Lung’ Amo Guicciardini, No. 7- 
 
 The intelligent amateur will find there a Collection of Statues, both originals and copies 
 artistioally executed. 
 
 Principal WoRKS.—The Son of William Tell ; the Young Franklin ; the Young 
 Washington; the Young Whittington; the Young Napoleon ; the Young Moses ; Garibaldi. 
 
 STUDIO, 82, BORGO ST. FREDIANO. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 Messrs. Anthony Sasso & Son, Artists, 
 
 4, VIA DI BORGO OGNISSANTI, 
 
 Distinguished with Medals at the Italian Exhibition of 1861, keep the most beautiful anti ; 
 rich IMvate Gallery in the City of Ancient and Modern Original Pictures, copies of the mo*t i 
 celebrated pictures in the Public Galleries, water-colour paintings, and beautiful ancient ; 
 carved cabinets, Ac. — 
 
 ENGLISH SPOKEN. 
 
 Agents and Correspondents in England and America : — 
 
 Messrs. J. & R. McCRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cailnoh Street, London, RC. 
 
 Messrs. DUNCAN, SHIRMAN& CO., and Messrs. AUSTIN, BALDWIN & CO., New York. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 BRIZZI AND NICCO DAI’S 
 
 Musical Establishment. 
 
 PIANOFORTES, OF THE BEST MAKERS, 
 
 FOR SALK AND ON HIRE. 
 
 GENERAL DEPOT FOR WIND-INSTRUMENTS. 
 
 Italian and Foreign Music. 
 
 Musical 
 
 PIAZZA MADONNA. 
 PALAZZO ALDOBRANDINI. 
 
 landing Library. 
 
 I BRANCH HOUSE (Music I)kp&t) 
 12, VIA CEKRKTANI. 
 
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 — — *— 
 
 GRAND HOTEL ROYAL DE LA PA1X. 
 
 THE SMALL FIFTH AVENUE QF ITALY. 
 
 '"THE only First Class House for American, English, and 
 ■*- other Travellers. Fixed Frices in each Room, including 
 Gas and Service. No other House in the Town can boast of 
 possessing so many sunny Rooms, or finer view from each 
 Floor ; and the only House that has a covered thoroughfare for 
 Carriages, Omnibus, etc. A Lift is always in service, comfort 
 is always studied, and everybody speaks English, 
 
 To prevent Rheumatism a real Drying Machine is kept 
 for the Linen, 
 
 ANTHONY DE SALVI, Proprietor, 
 
 FLORENCE, 
 
 TELEMACO DI G. bianchini, 
 
 MANUFACTURER OF TABLES AND LADIES’ ORNAMENTS . 
 OF FLORENTINE MOSAIC, 
 
 LUNG’ ARNO NUQVO, 1, AND BORG’ OGNISSANTI, 2, 
 
 TNVITES the English Nobility and Gentry to visit his Establishment, wheip 
 T mav always be seen numerous specimens of this celebrated and beautihi l 
 Manufacture, in every description of Rare and Precious Stones. Orders for 1 ables 
 
 and other Ornaments executed to any Design. 
 
 T. Bjanchini’S Correspondents in England are Messrs. J* & K, M CRAC s 
 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 A NGLO-AMERICAN BANKERS -Messrs. Maquay Hooker & Co,, 
 
 A Florence— Via Tornabuoni, No. 5. Messrs. Maquay, Hooker & Co., Rome— P ia??a 
 di Spagna, No. 20. Messrs. Maquay, Hooker & Co., Leghorn— Via Borra, No. ?. VVit 
 Branches at Pisa, Siena, and Baths of Lucca. 
 
 Acents and direct Correspondents of all the principal Bankers in Europe and the United 
 States. Reading-rooms. Goods stored and forwarded for clients, &c„ Ac. 
 
 With Map and Plans, post 8vo. 10s. 
 
 H andbook to central italy, Florence, 
 
 TUSCANY, LUCCA, UMBRIA, THE MARCHES, and the 
 PATRIMONY OF ST. PETKB. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY? ALBEMARLE STREET, 
 
30 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 MESSRS. COSTA & CONTI, 
 
 ARTISTS, 
 
 No. 8, VIA ROMANA, 
 
 Opposite the Mute um qf yatural UiiUrry (Fpecola), and ntar the iHiti (iaUery. 
 
 Me«r*. Cotta and CONTI keep the largest colla tion in Florence of original 
 Ancient and Modern Picture#, as well as Copies of all the most celebrated Masters. 
 
 S.b . — English spoken. 
 
 Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and H. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, 
 Cannon Street, E.C., London. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE LA VILLE, 
 
 LUNG’ ARNO NUOVO AND PIAZZA MANIN. 
 
 (Southern Aspect.) 
 
 Valrunited hy their Majr»tit* the Kingt of l'ru**ia and Denmark. 
 
 120 lofty and airy Ited-rooiu*; Sitting-room* ; Reading-room, with u good 
 « hui<‘o of Eurofjuui Paper*. Splendid Dining-room and Table dibit**. 
 Smoking Saloon. Pith* in the Hotel. Find and moderate /trices 
 Omnibus at every train. All languages spoken. 
 
 D. LODOMEZ, Proprietor. 
 
 FRANKFORT O. M. 
 
 M B. c. A. 1.0 II i;. 
 
 PROPRIETOR OF THE ROMAN EMPEROR HOTEL, 
 
 lw*« Uj r*o tnmmd bU M«um u> Kn*lUb T 
 
 THIS large and weU-situaUd Establishment is conducted under ths immediate | 
 1 supenutendem* of th# Proprietor, and newly furnished with every comfort, j 
 and a new splendid IHning-room. 
 
 The ** KomaX EmpkROR ** b of\*n honoured by Kora) Families and other high 
 t*r*on*e«». TW following hare latHy honoured thi» flotel — 
 
 H.M. THE KINO AXP yUKEN or WUKTKMBKBO. 
 
 U X THK lyUKKN Of HOLLA NO. 
 
 H.I.H. THK AK< HDUKK OK AUSTUIA. Mr. Ac. A 
 IkbM'bftusn. lfl. *5kr. Breakfast. iskr. 
 
 ft. 2(1. lOkr. T**a, 18kr. 
 
 Bed P.roms, f* lfl. 9fl. 
 
1874. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 31 
 
 FRANKFORT. O. M. 
 
 FRIEDRICH BijHLER, 
 
 ZEIL, No. 54, 
 
 NEXT DOOR TO THE POST OFFICE. 
 
 PRIZE MEDAL, LONDON. 1862. 
 
 ^^.□N'TT^A.ca:o^'Y‘ oif 
 
 ARVED STAGHORN AND IVORY ORNAMENTS, 
 
 CARVED WOOD WORK (Vieuxchene) Furniture & Fancy Objects, 
 
 rtks, | ramps, Cjrma , Jfanxg %xtidz% of ^frerg Jmriptioir. 
 
 SPECIALITIES OF GERMAN ARTICLES. 
 
 mna Bronzes, Marquetry, Leather and Meerschaum Goods, Travelling 
 Articles, Toilette Requisites, etc., etc. 
 
 SUPERIOR COPIES OF THE ARIADNE BY DANNICKER. 
 
 nuine Eau de Cologne of Jean Marie Farina , opposite the J illicit s Platz, 
 
 FIXED PRICES. 
 
 'he Agents in London are Messrs. J. and R. McCracken, 38, Queen Street, 
 Cannon Street West. 
 
 
32 
 
 MURRAY S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 FRANKFORT. 
 
 P. A. TACCHI’S SUCCESSOR, 
 
 ZKIl, So. 44, 
 
 BOHEMIA!! IF AHOY (BLASS AHB (DBYSTAL 
 WABEHOUSEo . 
 
 P. A. TACOHPS SUCCESSOR, Manufacturer of Bohemian 
 Glass, begs to acquaint the Public that he has always an extensive 
 Assortment in the Newest and most Elegant Designs of 
 
 ORNAMENTAL CUT, ENGRAVED, GILT, & PAINTED GLASS, 
 
 BOTH WHITE AND COLOURED, 
 
 In Dessert Services, Chandeliers, Candelabras, Articles for the Table 
 and Toilet, and every possible variety of objects in this beautiful 
 branch of manufacture. He solicits, and will endeavour to merit, a 
 continuance of the favours of the Public, which he has enjoyed in 
 so high a degree during a considerable number of years. 
 
 P. A. Tacchi's Successor has a Branch Establishment during the 
 Summer Season at 
 
 WIESBADEN, in the Old Colonnade, No. 1, 
 
 OPPOSITE THE THEATRE , 
 
 Where will always be found an extensive Selection of the newest 
 Articles from his Frankfort Establishment. 
 
 Visitors to Frankfort should not fail to pay a visit to the Show 
 Rooms of Mr. P. A. Tacchi’s Successor. 
 
 His Correspondent in England, to whom he undertakes to forward 
 Purchases made of him, is Mr. LOUIS HENLE, 3, Budge 
 Row, Cannon Street, London, E.C. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 33 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 A. GOLAY, LERESCHE & SONS, 
 
 31, QTJA1 DJES BERGUES, and 1, PLACE DU PORT, \ 
 
 MANUFACTURERS OF WATCHES AND JEWELRY, 
 
 Two large Establishments, completely furnished with goods of the newest designs, 
 Warranted Watches of all kinds, especially of Chronometers, and with complex 
 movements. Also a very large assortment of Jewelry. 
 
 House in Paris, No. 2, HUE HE LA PAIX, 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 HOTEL DU LAC. 
 
 Opposite the Steam-boats and the English Garden* 
 Hew Hotel, elegantly furnished* 
 
 Very reasonable Prices. 
 
 Proprietor, H. SPAHLINGER. 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE LA POSTE, 
 
 Close to the General Post Office and Telegraph. 
 
 THIRST-RATE Second-Class Hotel, with very moderate Charges and 
 careful Attendance. Rooms from 2 francs. Table d’Hote with 
 Wine twice a day, 3J and i francs. 
 
 G. HELLEE, Proprietor. 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 moijliniL and le GRANDROY. 
 
 Successors LE GRANDROY & FILS, 
 
 "W atcli Manufacturers. 
 
 LATEST IMPROVEMENTS IN STEM- WINDERS. 
 
 23, QUAI DES BERGUES, GENEVA. 
 
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 :U 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE LA PAIX. 
 
 J. KOHLER & H. TRIESCHMANN, 
 
 PROPRIETORS. 
 
 American Breakfasts. — Buckwheat Cakes. — Fish Bulls, Ac., Ac. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 
 
 FRO VIHF.lt WITH A LIFT. 
 
 H:OM THE TWENTY BALCONIES ADORNING THIS HOTEL. 
 
 THE MOST SPLENDID PANORAMIC l HEW 
 
 IN THE WHOLE OF SWITZERLAND MAY BE 1IAD. 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 NO. 2, PLACE DES BERGUES. 
 
 GEO. BAKER, 
 
 ENGLISH CHEMIST AND DRUGGIST, 
 
 PRESCRIPTIONS CARKFULLY PREPARED. 
 
 ALL KINDS OF PATENT MEDICINES <fc PERFUMERY. 
 
 Homoeopathic Preparations. Soda and Saratoga Water. 
 Medicines and Preparations forwarded with tho greatest dispatch and 
 safety to all jiarts of Switzerland by Post. 
 
 G E N E VA. 
 
 PENSION, 18, RUE LEVRTER. 
 MADEMOISELLE RUFENACHT, Proi'KMCTairk. 
 
 r IRST-CL ASS Family Boarding House, very handsomely furnished, divided 
 into Apartmrnu mm -bio for Families of fr.»in throe to ten persons. Excellent Cuisine ; 
 view of the I«ak»* ; near the English Church, Steamboat landings, and Railway Station, 
 hoglbb accocoiDodalioU. 
 
 HOTEL VICTORIA* AND PENSION. 
 
 RUE DE MONT BLANC. 
 
 Sear the English Church , the Rail *r ay Station, ami the Steamboat Jsmdimjt. 
 Fir»t>claas Hotel. Moderate prion. 
 
 Salon, Smoking Room, and Baths. 
 OMNIBUS AT THE STATION. 
 
 M ALS011-B BRTHO U D, Pbofhietob. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 35 
 
 GEN EVA. 
 
 HOTEL DE LA COURONNE. 
 
 Proprietor, Mr. F. RATIIGEB. 
 
 THIS ESTABLISHMENT, of the first Bank, completely 
 
 A newly furnished throughout, situated in front of the magnificent Pont du 
 Mont Blanc, the National Monument, the Steam-boat landing, and the English 
 Garden, enjoys a most extended view of Lac Leman and Mont Blanc. 
 
 Every attention paid to the comfort and wishes of Families and Gentlemen. 
 Active attendance, good Cuisine and Cellar. English and American Newspapers. 
 
 TABLES D’HOTE THREE TIMES A DAY. 
 
 Omnibus from the Hotel to every Train. 
 
 G e N E va. 
 
 A MOUNTAIN RESIDENCE, MONT SALEVE. 
 
 One and a-half hour from Geneva, 3300 ft. above the level of the sea. 
 
 MONNETIER 
 
 (telegraphic station) 
 
 HOTELS AND PENSIONS J)E LA RECONNAISSANCE 
 
 CHATEAU DE ET MONNETIER. 
 
 Proprietors, PERREARD-FAURAX. 
 
 Omnibus from Geneva three times a day from the Grand Quai, 28. 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 HOTEL DES BERGUES. 
 
 FREDERICK WACHTER, Proprietor. 
 
 PATRONISED by the ROYAL FAMILY of ENGLAND, by most of the 
 SOVEREIGNS of EUROPE, and by the SHAH of PERSIA. 
 
 ANE of the largest Hotels in Geneva, having a splendid view 
 ^ of Mont Blanc, of the Alps, of the Lake, and of the City. An 
 elegantly furnished “ Salon de Conversation,” a Lift, by Edoux of Paris, 
 to all the stories, and a glazed Winter-Garden, stocked with flowering 
 and exotic plants, have been added to the extensive accommodation of the 
 Hotel. Families and Gentlemen will find every comfort a first-class Hotel 
 is now expected to afford. Three Tables d’Hote a day, Private Dinners at 
 any hour, and an unrivalled Cellar of Wines. 
 
 BATHS IN THE HOTEL, 
 
.°>6 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 May 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 HOTEL DE LA METROPOLE. 
 
 rPHIS splendid modern Hotel enjoys an extensive celebrity for its beautiful and 
 A admirable situation on the Promenade in front of Lake Leman, opposite the 
 English Garden, the Bridge of “Mont Blanc,” and the landing-place of the 
 Steamers. Under the active superintendence of the new Proprietor, M. Baur, 
 every attention is given to contribute to the comfort and satisfaction of the visitor. 
 
 300 Rooms and Saloons , Private Saloons , beautiful Conversation Saloon . 
 
 Beading Boom, Smoking Boom, &c. Baths. 
 
 Table d'Hdte al 1, 5, and 7 o'clock. Pension from 5 frs. per day. 
 
 Rooms from 2 frs . 
 
 GENEVA MUSICAL BOXES. 
 
 By Special Appointment to H.R.R. the PRINCE of WALES. 
 
 Prize Medal, Paris Exhibition, 1867. 
 
 B. A. BREMOND, MANUFACTURER, 
 
 PLACE DES ALPES, GENEVA. 
 
 SPACIOUS SHOW ROOMS ON THE GROUND FLOOR. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. 
 
 IRST-CLASS Hotel, with a now Addition, a large Garden, 
 
 and Terrace. It is the largest Establishment in the 
 town ; it contains 300 Bedrooms and Saloons. Splendid view 
 of the Lake Leman and Mont Blanc. A beautiful Lift. 
 
 H andbook to Switzerland, the alps of 
 
 SAVOY AND PIEDMONT. 
 
 G E N E VA. 
 
 MAYER and KUNZ, Proprietors. 
 
 With Maps and Plans, post 8vo. 9*. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 37 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 hydroteebapigTstablishment. 
 
 CHAMPEL-SUR-ARVE. 
 
 vast Establishment, organised by a Joint-Stock Com- 
 pany (Societe Anonyme), under the Patronage of all the Members 
 of the Medical Profession of Geneva, will be opened in June next. 
 
 Medical Director, Dk. GLATZ. 
 
 The arrangement of this Establishment — the fitting up of the necessary 
 machinery, and the regulation of the attendant services, have been made 
 under the superintendence of a Medical Committee of Direction and 
 Consultation. 
 
 For more ample information application can be made to the Director, 
 
 Geneva, April, 1874. 
 
 Grand Hotel-Pension des Bains. 
 
 BEAU SEJOUR. 
 
 CHAMPEL-SUR-ARVE, GENEVA, 
 
 Proprietors, L. & C. TALLIFER. 
 
 nPHIS HOTEL-PENSION, situated on Cbampel, and con- 
 tiguous to the Hydrotherapic Establishment, is remarkable for its 
 healthy position on a grassy eminence, for its splendid panoramic views, 
 for its extensive walks, shaded from the sun by the thick foliage of 
 magnificent trees, and by its proximity to the Public Edifices of Geneva, 
 the Theatre, University, Athenaeum, Conservatoire, Museums, &c., &c. 
 
 Persons attending the Hydropatherapic Cure will be accommodated in 
 the Hotel on very moderate and advantageous terms. 
 
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 :?8 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE RUSSIE 
 
 AND 
 
 ANGLO-AMERICAN HOTEL. 
 
 A. ADRION, Proprietor. 
 
 T HIS upleudid modem Hotel commands the finest uninterrupted view of 
 Mont Blanc and the whole scenery of the Alps. First-rate Establishment, with every 
 modem accommodation. Charges very model ate. 
 
 GENOA. 
 
 HORACE AUGUSTE MOSSA, 
 
 JEWEILEB, 
 
 AND 
 
 MANUFACTURER OF GOLD AND SILVER FILAGREE WORK, 
 
 Which obtained PRIZE MEDAL at the Universal Exhibit ion 
 of London in 1851. 
 
 His Establishments are situated in the Grande Albergo dTtalin, 
 in Via del Campo, near the Porta di Vacca. He also keeps three 
 Depots in the Town. He undertakes the execution of all Commissions 
 with exactitude, and guarantees his Works to be of pure Gold and 
 Silver, and Silver doubly gilt Travellers are invited to visit his 
 Establishments without obligation to purchase. 
 
 Correspondents in England— Messrs. J. & R. McCRACKEN, 
 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. 
 
 GRENOBLE. 
 
 HOTEL MONNET. 
 
 Kept by TRILLAT 
 
 Son-in-law and Successor to Mr. Monnet). 
 
 f OST comfortable Hotel, in the centre of the town, frequented by 
 English and American families, Prices reasonable. information given, 
 and Carriages for all the environs. Omnibus to Station. 
 
 Hotel et Restaurant Monnet, Uriage les Bains, the best at the £tablis»emenL 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 39 
 
 GENOA. 
 
 K. RUBATTINO & CO.’S 
 
 ITALIAN MAIL STEAMERS. 
 
 Regular Monthly Departures for the 
 INDIAN LINE 
 
 ( Via SUEZ CANAL.) 
 
 From Genoa to Bombay on the 24th I From Bombay to Genoa on the 1st 
 and from Naples on the 27th | and from Aden on the 8th ; 
 
 of each Month. 
 
 MEDITERRANEAN LINES. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA (Egypt) to ITALY. 
 
 Alexandria to Genoa every 7, 17, 27 at 2 p.m. 
 
 (Calling at Messina, Naples, & Leghorn.) 
 From Naples to Genoa every 2, 12, 22 at 2 p.m. 
 Arrival at Genoa 4, 14, 24. 
 
 From Genoa every Thursday . , 
 „ Leghorn every Friday . , 
 „ Cagliari every Sunday . , 
 Arrival at Tunis every Monday 
 
 From Genoa every Monday & Thurs. at 6 p.m. 
 
 „ Leghorn every Tues. & Friday at 1] „ 
 Arr. at Cagliari every Thurs. & Sun. morn. 
 
 Genoa to Alexandria every 5, 15, 25 at 7 p.m , 
 (Calling at Leghorn, Naples, & Messina.) 
 
 . From Naples to Alexandria 8, 18, 28 at 2 p.m, 
 j Arrival at Alexandria 3, 13, 23. 
 
 GENOA to TUNIS. 
 
 , . at 9 p.m. From Tunis every Wednesday . . . . at noon. 
 
 . . at 11 „ „ Cagliari every Thursday. . . . at 6 p.m. 
 
 , . at 8 „ „ ^Leghorn every Saturday . . .. at 11 „ 
 
 . . at noon. Arrival at Genoa every Sunday . . at 6 a.m, 
 
 GENOA to CAGLIARI. 
 
 From Cagliari every Mon. & Thurs. at 6 p.m. 
 
 „ Leghorn every Wed. & Sat. . . at 11 „ 
 Arr. at Genoa every Thurs. & Sun. . . at 6 a.m. 
 
 NAPLES to CAGLIARI. 
 
 From Naples every Saturday . . . . at 2 p.m. I From Cagliari every Thursday . 
 Arr. at Cagliari every Sunday . . . . at 7 „ | Arr. at Naples every Friday . 
 
 GENOA to PORTOTORRES. 
 
 From Genoa every Wednesday . . . . at 9 p.m. 
 
 „ Leghorn every Thursday. ... at 3 ,, 
 Arr. at Portotorres every Friday . . at noon. 
 
 From Portotorres every Sunday 
 „ Leghorn every Monday . . 
 Arr. at Genoa every Tuesday . . 
 
 . . at 2 p.m . 
 . . evening, 
 
 . . at noon. 
 
 . . at 11 a.m 
 .. morning. 
 
 GENOA, BASTIA, MADALENA & PORTOTORRES 
 
 From Genoa to Leghorn every Sat. at 9 p.m. 
 „ Leghorn to Bastia every Sun. at 8 a.m. 
 „ Bastia to Madalena every Sun. at 6 p.m. 
 „ Madalena toPortot. every Mon. at 6 a.m. 
 Arr. at Portotorres every Mon at 6 p.m. 
 
 From Portot. to Madal. every Wed. at 8 a.m. 
 „ Madalina to Bastia every Wed. at 5 p.m. 
 „ Bastia to Leghorn every Thurs. at 6 a.m. 
 „ Leghorn to Genoa every Thurs. at 11 p.m. 
 Arr. at Genoa every Friday morning 
 
 CIVITAVECCHIA to MADALENA & PORTOTORRES- 
 
 From Civitav. to Madal. every Wed. at 3 p.m. i From Portot. to Madal. every Friday at 10 a.m. 
 
 „ Madal. to Portot. every Thurs. at 7 a.m. ,, Madal. to Civitav. every Fri. at 8 p.m. 
 Arr. at Portotorres every Thursday at 3 p.m. | Arr. at Civitavecchia every Sat. . . at 11 a^m. 
 
 LEGHORN to the ISLAND OF ELBE. 
 
 (Sun. at 10 a.m. I CMon. atSA.M. 
 
 From Legh. to Portof. every '(Wed. at 8 „ From Portof. to Legh. every ( Fri. . . at 8 a.m. 
 Arr. at Portof. every Sun. & Wed. at 4 p.m. | Arr. at Leghorn every Mon. & Fri. evening. 
 
 PIOMBINO to PORTOFERRAIO- 
 
 From Piombino every day at 3 p.m. | From Portoferraio every day . . . . at 8 a.m. 
 
 For Freight, Passage, and Particulars, apply at Bombay, to CH. GRONDONA (Managing 
 Agent in India); at Alexandria, to BARKER & CO.; at Marseilles, to CH. LAFORET& 
 CO.; at London, to A. LAMING & CO., 8., Leadenhall Street, and in other ports to the 
 Company’s Agencies. 
 
 K. RUBATTINO & CO. (GENOA). 
 
40 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 HEIDELBERG. 
 
 PRINCE CHARLES HOTEL, 
 
 The Hotel nearest to the Castle ( eight minutes' wcdlc only). 
 
 It has the best View of the Ruins from nearly all its windows. Lately consider* 
 ably enlaryed by a new winy , containiny besides a number of Bedrooms , a splendid 
 Dining-room , Break fast-room, Beading-room , and Smoking-room. 
 
 T HIS first-class Family Hotel, patronised by their Royal 
 
 Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales and Prince Alfred, is without 
 question the largest and best-situated Establishment in the town for Families and 
 Tourists who are visiting merely the celebrated Castle, or for making a longer stay, 
 being near all the attractive points, and at the foot of the Castle. It contains 
 large and small apartments of all descriptions; its rooms are light, airy, cheerful, 
 and truly comfortable ; and the Hotel is conducted on the most liberal scale, under 
 the personal superintendence of the Proprietors, 
 
 Messrs. SOMMER & ELLMER, 
 
 Superior Table d'Hote at 1 and 5 o'clock. Warm Baths in the Hotel. 
 Fresh Trout in the Pond. 
 
 Mr. SOMMER exports Wine to England at moderate prices. 
 
 *** Arrangements can be made for a longer stay. 
 
 OMNIBUSES OF THE HOTEL TO MEET ALL TRAINS. 
 
 IIf.RR Ellmeu was for many years Manager of the Hotel Bain-au-Lac, at Zurich* 
 
 HEIDELBERG. 
 
 HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 'J'HIS new, magnificent, first-rate Establishment, sur- 
 rounded by private and public gardens, with a view of 
 the Castle, and in the very best situation in Heidelberg, 
 and but 400 feet from the Station, enjoys an European 
 reputation. 
 
 READING ROOM, 
 
 With English jiimI Amerioan Papers. 
 
 Reduced prices for protracted stay, and for 
 the Winter Season. 
 
 HiEFELI-GUJER, Proprietor. 
 
1874 . 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 41 
 
 HEIDELBERG. 
 
 MULLER’S HOTEL VICTORIA. 
 
 THIRST CLASS. One of the best in Heidelberg. Splendidly 
 * situated near the Station and the Promenade. Large and Small 
 Apartments most comfortably furnished and entirely carpeted. Fine 
 Kitchen and choice Wines. 
 
 AUG. MULLER, Proprietor. 
 
 HEIDELBERG. 
 
 TTOTEL ADLER, in the Grand Place, opposite and nearest the Castle, 
 Deservedly recommended for its excellent situation, comfort, and 
 moderate charges. 
 
 Mr. LEHR, Proprietor. 
 
 HOMBURG- 
 
 TJOMBURG.— ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL.— First-rate for Families and Single 
 LL Gentlemen, close to the Springs and the Kursaal ; it is one of the best-situated Hotels 
 in the town. A splendid Dining-room, and two suites of airy and quiet apartments (with 
 balconies), overlooking the fine Taunus Mountains, have been newly added to the Hotel, it 
 has been patronised by His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, and several other Royal 
 personages. The Proprietor, who has been for years in first-class hotels in London, offers 
 visitors the advantages of good and comfortable accommodation. All the attendants speak 
 English. Best French and English cooking. Excellent. Wines. Moderate charges. Good 
 fishing, hare and partridge shooting free. GCJSTAVE WE1GAND, Proprietor. 
 
 HOMBURG. 
 
 rj(fl'EL DES QUATRE SAISONS.— Mr. SCHLOTTERBECIf, Proprietor.— 
 
 A-L This Hotel is of the first class, and enjoys a well-merited reputation. It is situated 
 near the Springs and the Kursaal. Excellent Table d’Hote and Wines ; the Proprietor is a 
 large dealer in Wines; and endeavours to make the stay of his patrons as comfortable and 
 pleasant as possible. 
 
 INNSBRUCK. 
 
 H OTEL DE L’EUROPE, kept by Mr. SCHEINER. — A new and well-furnished 
 Hotel, conveniently situated, just facing the splendid valley of the Inn, opposite the 
 Railway Station. Excellent Table d Hote and private dinners. Arrangements made at 
 very reasonable prices. Well-furnished Apartments. English Newspapers taken ip. 
 Splendid situation, commanding a fine view of the mountains. English spoken. 
 
 INNSBRUCK. 
 
 HOTEL GOLDEN SUN. — M. Horandtneb, Proprietor. — 
 
 1 This first-class Hotel, situated in the finest part of the town, and only four minutes* 
 walk from the Railway Station, enjoys a high reputation for being honoured with the 
 patronage of travellers of all nations. The greatest care is given to the attendance. Large 
 apd small well-furnished Apartment* for Families and Single Gentlemen. English spofteq. 
 
42 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 I LFRACOM BE. 
 
 ILFRACOMBE HOTEL. — Air bracing yet balmy. Beautiful 
 
 -l Scenery of North Devon. 240 Apartments. Cuisine excellent. Wines choice. Table 
 d'hote daily. Address “ The Manager, Ilfracombe Hotel, North Devon.” Through Bookings 
 by London and South-Western Fast Trains, via Barnstaple, and by Great Western, Bristol 
 and Kxeter and Midland Trains to Bristol, and by Steamers via Portishead ; also a regular 
 service of Steamers between Bristol, Cardiff, Tenby. Swansea, Padstow, Hayle, and Ilfracombe 
 (see Time Tables). Passengers now Land at the New Pier. 
 
 INTERLACKEN. 
 
 J. GROSS MANN, 
 
 SCULPTOR IN WOOD, AND MANUFACTURER OF SWISS 
 WOOD MODELS AND ORNAMENTS, 
 
 Carved and Inlaid Furniture manufactured to any Design , 
 
 AT INTERLACKEN. 
 
 IT IS WAREHOUSE is situated between the Belvedere Hotel and Schweizerhof, 
 where he keeps the largest and best assortment of the above objects to be 
 found in Switzerland. He undertakes to forward Goods to England and elsewhere. 
 
 Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. McCracken, 38, Queen Street, 
 
 Cannon Street, E.C., London. 
 
 . ~ 
 
 INTERLAKEN. 
 
 TJOTEL DE BELLE VUE. Kept by Mr. Hermann Rimps. 
 
 Excellent Second-Class Hotel, very well situated, containing a branch “ Pension 
 Kelsenogg,” with a fine Garden attached. It has been recently enlarged and newly furnished, 
 and contains 80 Beds. Boarders taken in, per day 6£ francs during the months of May, 
 June, September, October; and 6* francs per day during the months of July and August. 
 English, French, and German Newspapers. Omnibuses, Private Carriages, and Saddle 
 Horses. English spoken. The moderate charges of the Htitel Belle Vue are to be par- 
 ticularly noticed. 
 
 INDIA. 
 
 Now ready, crown 8vo. 10s. 6d. 
 
 REMINISCENCES of FORTY YEARS’ SERVICE 
 IN INDIA. 
 
 By Lieut.-Gen. Sir George Lawrence, K.C.S.I. and C.B. 
 
 Including the Cabul Disasters, Captivities in Afghanistan and the 
 Punjaub, and a Narrative of the Mutinies in Rajputana. 
 
 Edited by W. Edwards, H.M.B.C.S., 
 
 Author of “ Personal Adventures in the Indian Rebellion,’* <fco. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE 8TRKET. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 43 
 
 
 INTERLAKEN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DES ALPES. 
 
 OPPOSITE THE JUNGFRAU GLACIER, 
 
 250 Beds. 
 
 REDUCED PRICES (PENSION) are made for prolonged stay 
 in the early and later part of the season, 
 
 ENGLISH AND AMERICAN NEWSPAPERS, 
 
 Open from the 15 th of MAT. 
 
 J, F. KNECHTENHOFER, Proprietor. 
 
 INTERLAKEN. 
 
 HOTEL-PENSION, 
 
 JUNGFRAU. 
 
 F. SEILER-STERCHI, Proprietor. 
 
 fFHIS Establishment, with two Branch Houses, is situated in 
 the centre of the Hoheweg, and enjoys a splendid view of the 
 Jungfrau and the entire range of the Alps. It recommencis itself for its 
 delightful position as well as for its comfortable accommodation. 
 
 TABLE D’HOTE AT 2 & 6 O’CLOCK, 
 
 DINNERS A LA CARTE. 
 
 CARRIAGES, GUIDES, & HORSES, FOR MOUNTAIN 
 x EXCURSIONS. 
 
 OMNIBUS WAITING AT THE LANDING-PLACES. 
 
MUKliAVS HANDBOOK ADVKRT16KU, 
 
 44 
 
 M »y, 
 
 LANCASTER- 
 
 HALF-WAY BETWEEN LONDON AND SCOTLAND.) 
 
 Paitiu* holding Tourist Tickets to and from tho Lake District or Scotland 
 nw br» ak 1 1 it* ir journey at iAneasterboth going :uid returning, «m •'Onditjon 
 Dint th< y resume it within three days. 
 
 SLY’S 
 
 KING'S ARMS AND ROYAL HOTEL, 
 
 And general Potting Establishment for Fam\lies } Commercial Gentlemen 
 and 'Tourists . 
 
 The House is teeming with a large Collection of Ancient Works of Art, 
 including Gobelin Tapestry (inferior to none in the United Kingdom), 
 elaborately carved Oak Bedsteads, Tables, Chairs, Cabinets, Portraits, 
 China, etc., which have elicited the admiration of all visitors, including 
 H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, their Imperial Highnesses the Emperor ami 
 Empress of Brazil and suite, and many other Koval Personage's, and the 
 late Mr. Charles Dickens, who stated that in all his travels he hod never 
 met with such a remarkable house and interesting collection. 
 
 (Bee “ The Lazy Tour of Two Idle Apprentices,” in Household Worda, by 
 the late Mr. Charles Dickens.) 
 
 Visitors will find this old-established House equally ns economic ns 
 minor establishments, with the certainty of comfort and attention. 
 
 An Omnibus from the Hotel meets the tniius. 
 
 JOSEPH SLY, Proprietor. 
 
 LAUSAN N E. 
 
 HOTEL GIBHOA. 
 
 Mr. RITTER, Proprietor. 
 
 IRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated iu tho finest part of tlic 
 
 Town, is in every respect very highly recommended. Splendid View over 
 the Like in all its extent. 
 
 Large Terrace and Garden attached to the Hotel. 
 
 PENSION DURING THE WINTER. 
 
 F 
 
 LAUSANNE. 
 
 HOTEL RICHE- MONT. 
 
 Kept by FRITZ RITTER. 
 
 rFHIS Hotel ifl of tho firfit order, worthy of tho highest 
 ♦ lecommendatimi*, and in a situation of Hurpossing beauty. It it nm-rounded 
 by Garden* and Promenade*, and o (fen to a hijhljr dwimhle pine? of 
 
 rr*idmcf, or pf temporary sojourn, 
 
MURRAY’S kAM>febOk AUVRRflSEl 
 
 
 48 
 
 Between LAUSANNE & OUCHY. 
 
 HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. 
 
 Proprietor, A. KUFENACHT. 
 
 ^pHLS splendid Establishment, constructed on a grand scale, 
 is situated on one of the most beautiful spots on the shore 
 of the Lake of Geneva, surrounded by an English Park and 
 Garden. It is near the Steamboat Landing and the English 
 Church. 
 
 REDUCED PRICES FOR THE WINTER SEASON. 
 
 Constant communication with the City and Railway Station 
 by Omnibus 4 
 
 Baths f Telegraph, and Tost Office in the Hotel . 
 
 LIEGE. 
 
 HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE, 
 
 PLACE DU THEATRE ROYAL A LIEGE. 
 
 Mr. CLUCK, Proprietor. 
 
 fpHlS large and magnificent Hotel, much frequented by English families 
 L of distinction, also by Tourists and Travellers, is situated in the finest part of the town, 
 at a short distance from the Railway Stations and from the Steamboats, contiguous to the 
 Boulevards, and also very near places of public amusement. It is celebrated for its Cleanli- 
 ness, good attendance, and reasonable prices. Excellent large and small well furnished 
 apartments, suitable for Families or Single Travellers. Fixed prices. Superior Cooking, and 
 Table d’Hote very good. English, French, and German spoken. 
 
 LON DON. 
 
 DINNEFORD’S FLUID MAGNESIA. 
 
 T HE Medical Profession for thirty years have approved of this 
 
 pure Solution of Magnesia as the best remedy for acidity of the Stomach, Heartburn, 
 Headache, Gout, and Indigestion ; and as the best mild aperient for delicate constitutions, 
 especially adapted for Ladies, Children, and Infants. 
 
 D1NNEFORD & CO., CHEMISTS, 172, NEW BOND STREET, LONDON. 
 
 And of all other Chemists throughout the World. 
 
 ESSENTIALS FOR TRAVELLING. 
 
 Thresher’s India Tweed Suits. Thresher’s Kashmir Flannel Shirts. 
 
 Thresher’s Kashmir Woollen Socks. Thresher’s Coloured Flannel Shirts, 
 Thresher’s Travelling Bags. 
 
 Sold only by THRESHER AND GLENNY, 
 
 NEXT DOOR TO SOMERSET HOUSE, STRAND. 
 
4 * 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 M*r, 
 
 LON DON. 
 
 T H E CON T I X E N T. 
 
 COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS OF 
 DIFFERENT NATIONS. 
 
 Society of Couriers and Travelling 
 Servants. 
 
 Established 16 Years. 
 
 Patronised by the Royal Family, Nobility, and Gentry. 
 
 12, BURY STREET, ST. JAMES’S. 
 
 r PHlS Society is composed of Members of different Nations, 
 * all of well-established reputation, great experience, efficiency, 
 and respectability. 
 
 Couriers suitable for any country can be obtained. 
 
 Italians, Germans, Swiss, French, and Men of other 
 Nations, compose this Society ; some of whom, besides the 
 usually required languages, speak Spanish, Russian, Swedish, 
 Turkish, and Arabic, — in fact, every Continental and European 
 language. 
 
 Traveller* for any part can immediately meet with 
 Couriers and Travelling Servants on application to the 
 Secretary. 
 
 COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS OK DIFFERENT NATIONS. 
 12, BURT STREET, ST. JAMES'S, 
 
874. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 47 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 PASSPORT AGENCY OFFICE, 
 
 W. J. ADAMS, 59, FLEET STEEET, LONDON, E.O. 
 Regulations gratis for obtaining Foreign Office Passports, 
 
 COUNTRY or LONDON Residents, 
 
 \J by forwarding a Banker’s Application, or 
 ertificate of Identity, can have a PASSPORT 
 nd VISAS obtained. By this arrangement, a 
 lersonal attendance is unnecessary. 
 
 Cost of Passport, 2s. ; Visas, Various. 
 
 Fee obtaining Passport, 15. 6 d. 
 
 Do. do. Visas, Is. each. 
 
 Passports carefully Mounted and Cased, and 
 Names lettered thereon in Gold. 
 
 ?assport Cases from Is. 6d. to 5s. 6d. each. 
 
 THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY’S HANDBOOKS. 
 
 BRADSHAW’S BRITISH and CONTINENTAL GUIDES and HANDBOOKS 
 
 to France, Belgium. Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Spain and Portugal, Normandy, Brittany, 
 Tyrol, Paris, Turkey, Syria, and Palestine (2 vols). 
 rourist’s Handbook to Great Britain, &c., in four parts, Is. each. Baedeker’s Handbooks, 
 Ball’s Alpine Guides, Pack’s Pyrenees. Bradshaw’s Complete Phrase Books, French, 
 Italian, Spanish, and German, is. each. Bradshaw’s Overland and Through Route 
 Guide to India, China, and Australia, 5s. Bradshaw’s Handbooks to Bombay, Madras, 
 and Bengal, 10s. each. Kellar’s, Letjthold’s, and Ziegler’s Maps of Switzerland. 
 Mayr’s Map of the Tyrol. Knapsacks, Rugs, Waterproof Coats, Door-fasteners, Hand 
 bags, Portmanteaus, Straps, Soap, Compasses, Drinking Cups, Courier Bags, Glycerine, 
 Lamps, Telescopes, &c. Harper & Appleton’s Handbook to Europe and the East, 
 Black’s Guides to England, Ireland, Wales, and Scotland. O’Shea’s Spain and Portugal. 
 Phrase Books and Dictionaries. 
 
 Experienced Couriers engaged upon application. 
 
 FOREIGN BOOKS AT FOREIGN PRICES. 
 
 Travellers may save expense and trouble by purchasing Foreign Books in 
 England at the same Prices at which they are published in Germany or France. 
 
 WILLIAMS & NORGATE 
 
 have published the following CATALOGUES of their Stock : — 
 
 1. CLASSICAL CATALOGUE. 
 
 2. THEOLOGICAL CATA- 
 
 LOGUE. 
 
 3. FRENCH CATALOGUE. 
 
 4. GERMAN CATALOGUE. 
 
 5. EUROPEAN LINGUISTIC 
 
 CATALOGUE. 
 
 6. ORIENTAL CATALOGUE. 
 
 7. ITALIAN CATALOGUE. 
 
 8. SPANISH CATALOGUE. 
 
 9. ART-CATALOGUE. Art,Archi- 
 
 1 10. NATURAL HISTORY 
 CATALOGUE. Zoology, Bo- 
 tany, Geology, Chemistry, Mathe- 
 matics, &c. 
 
 11. MEDICAL CATALOGUE. 
 
 Medicine, Surgery, and the Depen- 
 dent Sciences. 
 
 12. SCHOOL CATALOGUE. Ele- 
 mentary Books, Maps, &c. 
 
 13. FOREIGN BOOK CIRCU- 
 LARS. New Books, and New 
 
 Pn vph q cpo 
 
 14. SCIENTIFIC-BOOK CIRCU- 
 LARS. New Books and Recent 
 
 tecture, Painting, Illustrated Books. 
 
 Purchases. 
 
 ANY CATALOGUE SENT POST-FREE FOR ONE STAMP. 
 
 WILLIAMS & NORGATE, Importers of Foreign Books, 
 
 14, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, London, and 
 20, South Frederick Street, Edinburgh, 
 
a 
 
 MURRAY’S IlANbBOOK ADVKKtlStR. 
 
 May, 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 CHUBB’S LOCKS AND SATES. 
 
 PRIZE MEDALS AWARDED at the following Exhibitions:— 
 LONDON 1851, PARIS 1855, LONDON 1862, DUBLIN 1865, PARIS 1867. 
 
 CHUBB & SON, 
 
 BY APPOINTMENTS, 
 
 MAKERS TO THE QUEEN, AND TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES. 
 
 C HUBB’S PATENT DETECTOR LOCKS, the most secure from 
 
 picklocks and false keys, arc strong, simple, and durable, and made of all sizes and for 
 every purpose to which a Lock can be applied. 
 
 Trunks, Portmanteaus, Travelling Bags, Dressing Cases, Writing Desks, <tc., fitted with 
 only the usual common and utterly insecure Locks, can have the place of these supplied by 
 Chubb’s Patknt without alteration or Injury. 
 
 Travellers’ Lock-Protectors and Portable 8cutchbon Locks for securing Doors that 
 may be found fastened only by common Locks. 
 
 CHUBB it SON have always in stock a variety of Writing and Despatch Boxes In 
 Morocco or Russia Leather and Japanned Tin ; the latter being particularly recommended 
 for lightness, room, durability, and freedom from damage by insects or hot climates. 
 
 Best Black Enamelled Leather Travelling Bags of various sizes, all with 
 Chubb’s Patent Locks. Cash, Deed, and Paper Boxes of all dimensions. 
 
 Chubb’s Jewel Safes, 
 For Ladies’ Dressing Rooms. 
 
 pHUBB’S PATENT SAFES are con- 
 
 \J structed in the very best manner, of the strongeat 
 wrought iron, fitted with Chubb’s Patent Drill-pre- 
 ventive and their GuNPownKB-PROOP Stekl-platkt) 
 Locks, are the most secure from fire and burgUry, and 
 form the most complete safeguard for Books, Papers, 
 Deeds, Jewels, Plate, and other valuable property. 
 
 CHUBB Sc SON have also strong wrought-iron Safes. 
 v'ithout tire-resisting lining, hut equally secure in all 
 other respects, intended for holding plate where protec- 
 tion from fire Is not an object, and affording much more 
 room inside than the Patent Safes. They are recom- 
 mended specially in place of the ordinary wooden cases 
 for plate, which may so easily be broken open. 
 
 “ A Fire-proof 8trong Room.— Messrs. Chubb and So»s have Just completed for 
 th« Credito Publico National ot Bueno* Ayres a fire-resisting strong room, fitted imdde with 
 a series of compartment*, to hold the Government Bonds. Within the last few years more 
 than :»0 rooms of a similar description have been manufactured by this firm for English and 
 foreign banks ; but this latest work is larger in size, and even more elaborate and perfect 
 In execution, than any of its predecessors. It stands 11 ft. 6 in. high, hy 14 ft. Jin. wide, 
 and 4 ft. 6 In. deep. The pluies are i In. in thickness, rebated together, and fastened by the 
 very strongest angle iron screws and rivets. The total thickness of the sides Is 6ln., which 
 include* a small air cbamlier and the cases of fire-proof material. This particular aa'e, or 
 to speak more correctly, stroog room, is 15 ton* in weight so that the charges for freightage 
 will prove of themselves some slight addition to the original cost. It will be despatched 
 to it* destination piecemeal, under the charge of one of the workmen employed In it* 
 construction, w bo will see to the proper fixing of its aeveral parts on its arrival at Bflenoa 
 Ayres. Two doors, each U»n. thick, made of combined steel and Iron, with fireproof 
 chambers, and fitted with two potent gunpowder-proof locks, throwing fourteen b*»lu all 
 round, each lock differing, guard the precious contents that an* to be. so that though the 
 whole' mom only took ten men three montha to make, one is not unreasonably tempted to 
 conjecture how many men for how ninny montha It would take to op«*n these bars and 
 bolts against the will of the Buenoa Ayres Government." — The Times, December m, 1*73. 
 
 ('ompUU Illustrated Priced Lists of Chubb's Ixtcks. /knees. Safes, and other Mamtfarhsres 
 graLxs and postures. 
 
 CHUBB and BON. Makeri to the Bank of England, 57. 8t Paul*« Church- 
 yard. London, EC.; and at 68, 8t Jame#’ Street, Piccadilly, 8.W., 
 London; 28, Lord Street. Liverpool; 68. Crow Street, Manchester; and 
 Honeley Fieldi, Wolverhampton. 
 
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 49 
 
 1874. 
 
 LON DON. 
 
 By Appointment to H. R. H. The Prince of Wales. 
 
 
 37, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.C. 
 
 Hew Illustrated Catalogues of Registered and Patented Articles 
 
 Post Free. 
 
 ALLEN’S PATENT ALLEN’S PATENT ALLEN’S PATENT 
 
 BAG. DESPATCH-BOX DESK, Quadruple Portmanteau. 
 
 ALLEN’S NEW ALLEN’S SOLID LADY’S 
 
 DRESSING BAG. MAHOGANY WARDROBE 
 
 DRESSING-CASE. PORTMANTEAU. 
 
 ALSO 
 
 Allen’s Barrack Furniture Catalogue, for 
 Officers joining, Post Free. 
 
 PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED 
 
 FOR GENERAL EXCELLENC 
 
 E. 
 
50 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 LON DON 
 
 May, 
 
 NATIONAL PROVINCIAL BANK of ENGLAND. 
 
 ESTABLISHED IN THE YEAH 1833. 
 
 Head Office— BISHOPSGATE STREET, comer of THREADNEEDLE STREET. 
 St. James’ Branch— 212, PICCADILLY. 
 
 St. Marylebone „ 53, BAKER STREET. 
 
 Islington „ 218, UPPER STREET. 
 
 Capital. 
 
 SUBSCRIBED CAPITAL £ 2 , 550,000 
 
 PAID-UP CAPITAL 1,305,000 
 
 RESERVE FUND 501,655 
 
 No. of SHAREHOLDERS 3,271. 
 
 0 0 
 0 0 
 8 5 
 
 QtrrrtorS. 
 
 Right Hon. Lord Ernest Augustus Charles 
 Brudenell Bruce, M.P., 7, St George’s 
 Place, Hyde Park Corner, S.W. 
 
 John Oliver Hanson, Esq., 4, Dorset 
 Square, N.W. 
 
 John Kingston, Esq., 6, Crosby Square, 
 PIC. 
 
 Henry Paull, Esq., 33, Devonshire Place, 
 Portland Place, W. 
 
 John Stewart, Esq., 26, Throgmorton St„ 
 
 E.C. 
 
 Sir James Sibiuld David Scott, Bart., 
 18, Cornwall Gardens, W. 
 
 Richard Blanf.y Wade, Esq.,' 13, Seymour 
 Street, Portman Square, W. 
 
 Hon. Eliot Thoma8 Yorks, 15, Park 
 Street, Grosvenor Square, W. 
 
 Duncan Macdonald, Esq., Weybank Lodge. 
 Guildford, Surrey, and Belgrave Mansions, 
 Grosvenor Gardens, S.W. 
 
 George Hanbury Field, E6q., 67, Eccleston 
 Square, S.W. 
 
 Alex. Robertson, Esq., 20, Grafton Street, 
 Berkeley Square, W., and the College, 
 Elgin, N.B. 
 
 R. Wig ram, E6q., Black wall Yard. 
 
 The National Provincial Bank of England, having nnmerons branches in England and 
 Wales, as well as agents and correspondents at home and abroad, affords great facilities to 
 parties transacting Banking business w ith It in London. Customers keeping accounts with 
 the Bank in town may have moneys paid to their credit at its various branches, and remitted 
 free of charge. 
 
 Current accounts conduced at the Head Office and Metropolitan Branches on the usual 
 terms of London Banks. 
 
 Deposits at interest received in London of sums of 107. and upwards, for which receipts are 
 granted, called "Deposit Receipts and interest allowed according to the value of money 
 from time to time as advertised by the Bank in the newspapers. 
 
 The Agency of Country and Foreign Banks, whether Joint Stock or Private, is undertaken. 
 
 l*urchases and Sales effected in all British and Foreign Stocks ; and iiivideuds, Annuities, 
 received for customers. 
 
 Circular Notes and Letters of Credit are Issued for the use of Travellers on the Continent 
 and elsewhere. 
 
 At the Country Branches, Deposits are received and all other Banking business is con- 
 ducted on the usual terms. 
 
 The Officers of the Bank are bound to secrecy as regards the transactions of its customers. 
 
 Copies of the last Annual Report of the Bank, Lints of Shareholders, Branches, Agents, 
 and Correspondents, may be bad on application at the Head Office, and at any of the Bank § 
 Branches. 
 
 By ordor of the Directors, 
 
 E. ATKINSON, 1 Joint 
 WM. HOLT, 5 General Managrrt. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S' HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 51 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 TO CONTINENTAL TRAVELLERS. 
 
 DORRELL & SON’S 
 PASSPORT .A- <3- E IN' O Y, 
 15, CHARING CROSS, S.W. 
 
 Every Information given respecting Travelling on the Continent. 
 Trench and Italian spoken, and Correspondence carried on in either Language. 
 
 British Subjects visit- 
 ing the Continent will 
 save trouble and expense 
 by obtaining their Pass- 
 ports through the above 
 Agency. No personal 
 attendance is required, 
 and country residents 
 may have their Pass- 
 ports forwarded through 
 the post. A ‘Passport 
 Prospectus,’ containing 
 every particular in de- 
 
 tail, by post, on applica- 
 tion. 
 
 Passports Mounted 
 and enclosed in Cases, 
 with the name of the 
 bearer impressed in gold 
 on the outside ; thus af- 
 fording security against 
 injury or loss, and pre- 
 venting delay in the 
 frequent examination of 
 the Passport when tra- 
 velling. 
 
 Fee, Obtaining Passport, Is. <6d. ; Visas, is. each. Cases, is. Qd. to 5s. each. 
 
 THE LATEST EDIT SONS OF ^MURRAY’S HANDBOOKS. 
 
 English and Foreign Stationery, Dialogue Books, Couriers’ Bags, Pocket- 
 books and Purses of every description, Travelling Inkstands, 
 and a variety of other Articles useful for Travellers. 
 
 LONDON AND SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY, 
 
 LONDON STATION, WATERLOO BRIDGE. 
 
 The Cheap and Picturesque Houte to Paris, Havre, Houen, 
 Honfleur, Trouville, and Caen, via Southampton and Havre, 
 every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. The last Train from London at 9 p.m. goes 
 into Southampton Docks alongside the Steamer. 
 
 Fares throughout (London to Paris), Single Journey, First Class, 33s. ; Second 
 Class, -24s. Double Journey (available for One Month), First Class, 55s.; Second 
 Class, 39s. 
 
 Jersey, Guernsey, Granville, and St. Malo. Daily Mail Service to Channel Isles, 
 via Southampton (the favourite route), every Week-day after 1st May. The last 
 Train from London goes into Southampton Docks alongside tlie Steamer, leaving 
 Waterloo at 9 p.m. (except on Saturdays, on which day the last Train leaves at 
 5 ’20 p.m., and the Steamer goes to Jersey only). 
 
 Fares throughout (London and Jersey or Guernsey), Single Journey, First Class, 
 33s.; Second Class, 23s. Double Journey (available for One Month), First Class, 
 48s. ; Second Class, 38s. 
 
 Direct Service , Southampton to St. Malo , every Monday , Wednesday, 
 and Friday , according to Tide. 
 
 Steamers run between Jersey and St. Malo and Jersey and Granville 
 twice Weekly each way. 
 
 For further information apply to Mr. Bennett, 3, Place Vendome, Paris; 
 Mr. Langstaff, 67, Grand Quai, Havre; Mr. Enault, Honfleur; Mr. E. D. 
 Le Conteur, Jersey ; Mr. Spencer, Guernsey ; Captain Gaudin, St. Malo ; 
 Messrs. Mahien, Cherbourg ; or to Mr. E. K. Corke, Steam Packet Superinten- 
 dent, Southampton. D 2 
 
52 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 LON DON. 
 
 Important to the Travelling Public. 
 PARCELS TO AND FROMJTJE CONTINENT. 
 
 THE CONTINENTAL 
 
 DAILY PARCELS EXPRESS, 
 
 Known on the Continent as “L’Agence Continentale,” 
 
 (ESTABLISHED 1849). 
 
 S OLE Agency for England of tlio Belgian Government 
 RAILWAY, THE IMPERIAL GERMAN POST, and Correspondent of the 
 Northern of France Railway, conveys by Mail Steam Packets, Twice Daily 
 (Sunday excepted), via Dover, Ostend, and Calais, and rapidly by Rail and Post to 
 destination, Sample Parcels and Packages of all kinds, also Bullion, Gold and Silver 
 Coin, and Value Papers generally, between England and every part of the Con- 
 tinent. The Through Rates for Carriage and Insurance, which are very moderate, 
 and include all charges, except Duties and Entries, are to be had gratis on application. 
 
 Parcels should he booked as follows : — 
 
 HOMEWARD.— From the Continent. 
 
 In all Germany. At any Post-office of the Imperial German Post, or of the 
 Countries in connection therewith, viz., Austria, Switzerland, Russia, 
 Denmark, &c. The Address, and especially the Waybill (Frachtbrief) 
 should bear the words “ Service de l’Agence Continentale via 
 Ostende.*’ 
 
 Belgium. At any of the State Railway Stations, at the Office of the Agent in 
 Brussels, A. Crooy, 90 bis, Montague de la Cour ; or they can be 
 sent direct to Mr. De Kidder, 54, Rue St. Joseph, Ostend. 
 
 Holland. In the principal towns. Van Gend and Loos. 
 
 France. Paris, G. Pritchard, 4, Rue Rossini. To whose care also, parcels 
 for conveyance to England can be despatched from towns beyond 
 Paris, with advice by Post. Also to P. Bigeault, at 23 Rue 
 Dunkerque, opposite the Gard du Nord. 
 
 Note. — No parcels or luggage sent from the Continent to England should be 
 addressed Poste Restante , or to be left at any Hotel or Railicay Station, as they 
 are very seldom taken in. They can be addressed Bureau Restant, Ageuce Con- 
 tinentale, Dover; or, 53, Gracechurch Street, London. 
 
 OUTWARD.— To the Continent. 
 
 In London. At Chief Office, 53, Gracechurch Street, City (D. N. Bridge, 
 Manager, to whom all communications should be addressed), or at the 
 Universal Office, 34, Regent Circus. 
 
 In Country Towns. At the Agency in Liverpool, Manchester, Sheffield, Hull, 
 Leeds, Glasgow, Dublin, Bradford, Nottingham, Southampton, Dover, 
 and Folkestone. 
 
 In other Towns in Great Britain, where no Agent may be appointed, 
 parcels should be sent under cover by Railway, to D. N. Bridge, at 
 above address, with advice of exact contents and value by Post. 
 
 N.B.— Persons wishing to send or to obtain goods of any kind from Belguim, 
 can do so through this Express, “Contre Keinbouisement,” i.e., Payment of the 
 Amount of Invoice on delivery of the Parcel. Insurance rates moderate. 
 
 London: Chief Office, 53, Gracechurch Street. 
 
 J/jy, 1874. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 53 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 Mudie’s Select Library. 
 
 BOOKS FOR ALL READERS. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS SUBSCRIPTION, 
 
 ONE GUINEA PER ANNUM. 
 
 i. BOOK SOCIETIES SUPPLIED ON LIBERAL TERMS. 
 
 CHEAP BOOKS.— NOTICE. 
 
 TWENTY THOUSAND VOLUMES OF 
 
 BOOKS IN ORNAMENTAL BINDING FOR PRESENTS. 
 
 CONSISTING CHIEFLY OP 
 
 WORKS OP THE BEST AUTHORS, 
 
 AND MORE THAN TWO HUNDRED THOUSAND VOLUMES 
 of Surplus Copies of other Popular Books of the Past Season, 
 
 ARE NOW ON SALE AT GREATLY REDUCED PRICES. 
 Catalogues will be forwarded postage free on Application to any part of the World. 
 
 MUDIE’S SELECT LIBRARY, New Oxford Street, London. 
 
 CITY OFFICE— 2, King Street, Cheapside. 
 
 R. TENNANT, GEOLOGIST, 149, STRAND, LONDON, 
 
 W.C., gives practical Instruction in Mineralogy and Geology. He can also supply 
 Elementary Collections of Minerals, Rocks, and Fossils, on the following terms : — 
 
 100 Small Specimens, in cabinet, with three trays £2 2 0 
 
 *200 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with five trays 5 5 0 
 
 300 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with nine drawers . . . . 10 10 0 
 
 400 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with thirteen drawers .... 21 0 0 
 
 More extensive collections, to illustrate Geology, at 50 to 100 Guineas each, with every 
 requisite to assist those commencing the study of this interesting science, a knowledge of 
 which affords so much pleasure to the traveller in all parts of the world. 
 
 * A collection for Five Guineas which will illustrate the recent works on Geology by 
 Ansted. Buckland, Jukes, Lyell, Murchison, Page, Phillips, and contains 200 Specimens, in 
 a cabinet, with 5 trays, comprising the following, viz. : — 
 
 Minerals which are either the components of Pocks, or occasionally imbedded in them 
 Quartz, Agate, Chalcedony, Jasper, Garnet, Zeolite, Hornblende, Augite, Asbestus, Felspar, 
 Mica, Talc, Tourmaline, Zircon, Topaz, Spinel, Calcareous Spar, Fluor, Selenite, Baryta, 
 Strontia, Salt, Cryolite, Sulphur, Plumbago, Bitumen, Jet, &c. 
 
 Native Metals or Metalliferous Minerals: these are found in masses, in beds, or in 
 veins, and occasionally in the beds of rivers. Specimens of the following are contained in 
 the Cabinet: — Iron, Manganese, Lead, Tin, Zinc, Copper, Antimony, Silver, Gold, Platina,&c. 
 
 Rocks: — Granite, Gneiss, Mica-slate, Porphyry ,Serpentine,Sandstones, Limestones, Lavas, &c. 
 
 Paleozoic Fossils, from the Llandeilo, Wenlock, Ludlow, Devonian, and CarboniferousRocks, 
 
 Secondary Fossils, from the Trias, Lias, Oolite, Wealden, and Cretaceous Groups. 
 
 Tertiary Fossils, from the Woolwich, Barton, and Bracklesham Beds, London Clay, Crag, &c . 
 
 In the more expensive Collections some of the Specimens are rare, and all more select. 
 
 ELEMENTARY LECTURES ON MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY, 
 
 adapted to young persons, are given by J. TENNANT, F.R.G.S., at his residence, 149, 
 STKAND.W.C., and Private Instruction to Travellers, Engineers, Emigrants, Landed Pro- 
 prietors, and others, illustrated by an extensive collection of Specimens, Diagrams, Models, &c. 
 
 All the recent works relating to Mineralogy, Geology, Conchology, and Chemistry; also 
 Geological Maps, Models, Diagrams, Hammers, Blowpipes, Magnifying Glasses, Platina Spoons, 
 Electrometer and Magnetic Needle, Glass-top Boxes, Microscopic Objects, Acid Bottles, &c. , 
 can be supplied to the Student in these interesting and important branches of Science. 
 
54 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 INTERESTING LETTER FROM FULHAM. 
 
 No. 2, Lawn Terrace, North F.nd, Fulham. 
 
 November 1st, 1872. 
 
 Gentlemen, — I read now and then in the newspapers letters speaking of the good qualities 
 of your medicine. Park's Life Pills, and 1 have for a long time had it on my mind to write 
 and tell you that perhaps no one could say more in their favour than 1 can, because myself 
 and my family have used them as a Family Medicine for upwards of twenty-five years, 
 which is, you must admit, a long experience; and 1 can now unhesitatingly vouch for their 
 efficacy, and say 1 believe them to be the finest medicine ever used. Excepting when we 
 were obliged to have a Surgeon, we have never had to call in a medical man, and our con- 
 tinued go<id health 1 attribute to using, when ve require medicine, your Parr’s Life Pllls. 
 — 1 am, Gentlemen, yours with respect and gratitude, Alexander Fitch. 
 
 Messrs, T. Roberts and Cb., 8, Crane-court, Fleet-street, E.C. 
 
 In Boxes, Is. lid., 2s. 9d., and in Family Packets, 11s. each. 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 CARY’S IMPROVED POCKET TOURIST’S TELESCOPE. 
 
 (See •Murray’s Handbook.’) 
 
 Manufacturer of all descriptions of Mathematical, Surveying, and Optical Instruments, for 
 the use of Naval and Military Officers, &c. Also the new Binocular Reconnoitring Field 
 Glass, in Aluminium of exceeding lightness and durability, so highly spoken of by officers 
 and other gentlemen: from 51. 5s. ; ordinary metal from ll. 10#. Cary’s improved Achro- 
 matic Microscope, with two sets of choice lenses, capable of defining the severe test 
 objects ; from 21. 15#. Travelling Spectacles of all kinds. Mathematical and Optical Instru- 
 ment Maker by special appointment to tbe War Office, Admiralty, Trinity House, Royal 
 Military College, Sandhurst, Royal Geographical Society, Christ’s Hospital, Trinity House, 
 King’s College, &c. ; and Optician to the Royal London Ophthalmic Hospital. 
 
 GOULD & PORTER, successors to CARY, 131, STRAND, LONDON. 
 
 Established upwards of a Century. 
 
 PURE AERATED WATERS. 
 
 ELLI S’S 
 
 RUTHIN WATERS, 
 
 Soda, Potass, Seltzer, Lemonade, 
 Lithia, and for GOUT, Lithia 
 and Potass. 
 
 CORES BRANDED *“ R ELLIS (c SON, RUTHIN,” and every label bears their trade 
 mark. Sold everywhere, and Wholesale by R. Ellis fc Son, Ruthin, North Walea, 
 London Agents i W. Best & Sons, Henrietta St., Cavendish Square. 
 
 TOURISTS! TOURISTS! TOURISTS! 
 
 The Miniature Photographic Apparatus, 
 
 NO KNOWLEDGE OF PEOTOGItAPnY REQUISITE. 
 
 Sole Manufacturers : 
 
 MURRAY & HEATH, Opticians, &c., to Her Majesty, 
 
 69, JERMYN STREET, LONDON, S.W. 
 
 Dewription an.l Prices forwanled on receipt of »tami>e<l enrelope. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 55 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 THE FURNISHING OF BED-ROOMS. 
 
 HEAL & SON have 16 separate Rooms, each completely furnished with 
 a different Suite of Furniture, irrespective of their general Stock displayed 
 in Six Galleries and Two Large Ground-floor Warerooms, the whole 
 forming the most complete stock of Bed -room Furniture in the Kingdom. 
 
 Japanned Deal Goods may be seen in complete suites of five or six 
 different colours, some of them light and ornamental, and others of a 
 plainer description. Suites of Stained Deal Gothic Furniture, Polished 
 Deal, Oak, and Walnut, are set apart in separate rooms, so that customers 
 are able to see the effect as it would appear in their own rooms. A 
 Suite of very superior Gothic Oak Furniture is generally kept in stock, 
 and from time to time new and select Furniture in various woods is 
 added. 
 
 Bed Furnitures are fitted to the Bedsteads in large numbers, so that a 
 complete assortment can be seen, and the effect of any particular pattern 
 ascertained as it would appear on the Bedstead. 
 
 A very large stock of Bedding (HEAL & SON’S original trade) is 
 placed on the BEDSTEADS. 
 
 The Stock of Mahogany Goods for the better Bed-rooms, and Japanned 
 Goods for plain and Servants’ use, is very greatly increased. The entire 
 Stock is arranged in sixteen rooms, six galleries, each 120 feet long, and 
 large ground-floors, the whole forming as complete an assortment of Bed- 
 room Furniture as they think can be desired. 
 
 Every attention is paid to the manufacture of the Cabinet work, and 
 they have large Workshops on the premises for this purpose, that the 
 manufacture may be under their own immediate care. 
 
 Their Bedding trade receives their constant and personal attention, 
 every article being made on the premises. 
 
 They particularly call attention to their Patent Spring Mattrass, the 
 Sommier Elastique Portatif. It is portable, durable, and elastic, and lower 
 in price than the old Spring Mattrass. 
 
 HEAL AND SON’S 
 
 ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF 
 
 BEDSTEADS, BEDDING, & BED-ROOM FURNITURE, 
 
 SENT FREE BY POST. 
 
 196, 197, 198, TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD. 
 
56 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 T HE LONDON and WESTMINSTER BANK issues Cir- 
 
 cular Notes of £10, £25, and £50 each, for the use of Travellers, payable 
 in the principal Towns on the Continent of Europe, also in Asia, Africa, and 
 North and South America. No expense whatever is incurred, and when cashed no 
 charge is made for commission. Letters of Credit are also granted on the same 
 places. They may be obtained at the City Office in Lothbury, or at any of the 
 Branches, viz.: 
 
 Westminster Branch 
 Bloomsbury „ 
 Southwark 
 Has tern 
 Marylebone 
 Temple Bar 
 l^ambeth 
 
 . 1, St James’s Square. 
 
 . 214, High Holbom. 
 
 . 6, High Street, Borough. 
 
 . 130, High Street, Whitechapel. 
 
 . 4, Stratford Place, Oxford Street 
 . 217, Strand. 
 
 . 89 &91, Westminster Bridge Road. 
 
 May, 1874. 
 
 JOSEPH GILLO 
 
 CELEBRATED 
 
 STEEL PENS. 
 
 T T’S 
 
 SOLD BY ALL DEALERS THROUGHOUT THE WORLD. 
 
 Every Packet bears the facsimile 
 Signature, 
 
 
 LUCERNE. 
 
 Englischer Hof.— Hotel d’Angleterre. 
 
 BnopRiETon — JEAN KEBER. 
 
 T'lIlS First-rate Establishment, very well recommended by 
 
 A the best class of Travellers is situated close to the Steamers’ Landing-place, 
 and vis-ii-vis the Railway Stations, on the loveliest position of the Lake, with 
 superb views of the Rigi,* Pilatu*, Alps, and Glaciers ; contains several Saloon*, 
 62 comfortable Rooms, Smoking and Reading Rooms where are French and 
 English newspapers. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 57 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 NINE EXHIBITION PRIZE MEDALS 
 
 AWARDED TO J. S. FRY & SONS. 
 
 MEDAL 
 
 Vienna, 
 
 18 73 . 
 
 MEDALS 
 
 Dublin, 
 
 1865 & 1872. 
 
 FRY’S 
 
 CARACAS COCOA 
 
 In ^lb. and \ lb. Packets, 1/4 per Pound. 
 
 Owes its delicious flavour to tlie choice 
 Caracas and other Cocoas with which it is 
 manufactured. 
 
 FRY’S 
 
 EXTRACT OF COCOA 
 
 In 6d. Packets, 1 / and 2/ Tins. 
 
 A perfectly pure and delicious beverage prepared exclusively 
 from choice Cocoa and of great value to invalids who wish to 
 avoid rich articles of diet. Purchasers of this class of Cocoa 
 should ask for “ Fry’s Extract of Cocoa.” 
 
 I S. FRY k SONS, BRISTOL k LONDON. 
 
 MEDALS 
 
 Paris, 
 
 1855 & 1867. 
 
 MEDALS 
 
 London, 
 
 1851 & 1862. 
 
 MEDALS 
 
 AT NINE 
 EXHIBITIONS. 
 
 LUCERNE. 
 
 SCHWEIZEBEOF. LUZEENEEHOF. 
 
 First- class Hotels. 
 
 HAUSER BROTHERS, Proprietors.. 
 
 BEST SITUATION ON THE QUAY. 
 
 With, splendid View of the Celebrated Panorama of the 
 LAKE AND MOUNTAINS. 
 
58 
 
 Ml'RRArS HANDBOOK ADVKRTISER. Mar, 
 
 LUCERNE. 
 
 SWAN HOTEL. 
 
 r FHIS Hotel, in the very l>e«t situation, enjoys a high 
 
 1 chwicift. Mr. H.fil’ FUJ. 1I4 hnpri^r, hu m«)r In the later vr«r« i crMt man y 
 Improvement* end doc* hi* uUiHgt to offer to hU Vldlon* * comfortable botne. An 
 ^1^*111 new tali « I *rawing*rv>om, N'altW a Heeding- room and Mnoktnfi-room. Cold. 
 " arm. and Shower lUtha. 
 
 LUCERNE. 
 
 HOTEL BEAU HI V AGE, 
 
 Proprietor— Mr. ED. STRCTB. 
 
 ’piRST-CLASS TIOTEL. Magnificent and unique position 
 
 ^ no the borders of the I.ake. Beautiful ornamental grounds. Boots for ex- 
 cursions on the Lake. 
 
 Public Drawing-room. Smoking-room. Apaitmcnts for 
 Families. Warm Baths and bathing in the I^ke. Newspapers of diHerent countries. 
 Om'jtnr excellent. Good attendance. M^lerste price*. Arrangement* made f< r 
 a long stay. In Spring and Autumn price of board and lodging 7 francs per day, 
 
 LYNTON (NORTH DEVON). 
 
 T1IE VALLEY OF ROCKS HOTEL 
 
 THIS favourite and 1- iuti fully situate Hotel, which liaa lately hml 
 
 1 ncteiutrt .llmtlnn* .Mlti ti». and ItnprornnmU. o.mbinn. with m'.l.r.tr rhirtr. >11 
 ty-ccoiry tn*an« for the ecoanroolaiioci and comfort uf FamlUea and Toareta. TV* «iJet> ! d 
 TeM* d'llfttr and CbCD* Ruotn. Reading Itouma. tadlca* Drawing R ^tn. and *ereT*l ITfvai 
 Hitting Room*, rang** In a long front overlooking tV era. and looking Into thr extendi 
 private ground* of the Hotel. ID re the vUlnr command* uninterrupted tlew* of tt 
 Rrt«toi Channel. ID Ton, and thr Vallrys of thr Kaat and Wnt I.jmna. and the coeat of South 
 We W. Ate. The Ifotrl I* alw> noil conveniently altuate a* a center f«< rlaltlng all 1 
 piece* of inter**! In the ’<*trLt |v«*. Horaee and Carnage*, (tachc* during thr Hmmm 
 Ilfracombe, flam* tapir, and the Wcat bvtwrwt Railway. 
 
 JOHN CROOK y Proprietor. 
 
 10th Thousand. With GOO Illustrations. Post 8vo. 0*. 
 
 rpHB STUDENT’S ELEMENTS OF GEOLOGY. By 
 
 1 Wr t'MAMLW l.rn i. F.lt.8. 
 
 •* jMr Uaikf I.ycil ha* Vt* don* for the poltykal itafoil what Si John IlmcbH dll 
 for the Mahal of ** thorny In ki« ir*. mparatd# * Ooiliiw*.* Town Uginoer* In natural 
 wiener had tag wanted * abort manual of g*«fogy *1 a se ww V prkr. which should pt 
 contain a fall apiamb u of the kediig facta and principle* of the atknce Ron IVy hart 
 |L”-Xj«aiarr ^ 
 
 JOHN MrHKAY. ALHEMARLK 8TRKKT. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 59 
 
 MACON- 
 
 Stopping Place between Switzerland and Italy. 
 
 Apartments for Families, Salons, Smoking Room. Table d’Hote and Service a la Carte. 
 
 This Hotel is recommended for its comfort and cleanliness. Wines and Cuisine 
 renowned. 
 
 MARSEI LLES. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL, 
 NOAILLES, 
 
 24:, RUE NOAILLES (Cannebiere jprolongee). 
 
 Pirst-class House, built in imitation of the Grand Hotel, Paris. 
 
 T HIS splendid Establishment, the LARGEST, MOST 
 IMPORTANT, AND MOST RECENT OF THE HOTELS OF 
 MARSEILLES, is the only one in the Rue Noailles which possesses a 
 large Garden in its centre surrounded by twelve Dining-rooms of the 
 Restaurant. Table-d’Hote all the Year with very excellent Wine. 
 Reading Room, Conversation Room, Piano, Smoking Room, and 15 
 Bath Rooms always ready. French and Foreign Political and Illustrated 
 Papers. The splendour and comfort of this Establishment, combined with 
 the attentive care of the employees, make this magnificent Hotel one of 
 the most important and celebrated in Europe. 
 
 MODERATE PRICES. 
 
 STAFF AND INTERPRETERS SPEAKING ALL LANGUAGES. 
 
 Omnibuses of the Hotel to meet every Train. Private Carriages. Omnibuses 
 and Carriages enter the Hotel. 
 
 The Tariff of Charges will be found in every Apartment. 
 
 MAR I EN BAD. 
 
 HOTEL KLINGER. 
 
 Proprietor, J. D. HALEMAYR. 
 
 F IRST and LARGEST HOTEL in this Watering Place. 
 
 Preferred on account of its charming situation at the corner of the Pro- 
 menade and Park, and has a beautiful view. Newly and elegantly furnished with 
 every comfort and in noble style, containing, with the dependance, 230 Rooms, 
 Saloons, &c. 
 
 Carriages in the Hotel. Omnibus to the Railway Station. 
 
 With Maps and Illustrations. Crown 8 vo. 125. 
 
 /THE ‘ROB ROY * ON THE JORDAN, NILE, RED SEA, GEN- 
 
 X NESAREI'H, &c. A Canoe Cruise in Palestine and Egypt and the Waters of 
 Damascus. By John Macgregor, M.A. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET, 
 
60 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 MALVERN (GREAT). 
 
 Y.iy, 
 
 THE IMPERIAL HOTEL 
 
 spills Hotel contains upwards of ono hundred bedrooms, 
 
 J- drawing-rooms, bod and dressing-rooms, and closets, en suite , a ladies* coffee- 
 room, a gentlemen's coffee-room, Table d'hote, reading and billiard-rooms, &c., kc. 
 
 The building is surrounded by its own ornamental grounds, flower gardens, 
 lawns, and terraces, and commands unequalled views of the whole range of the 
 Malvern Hills on one side, with the expansive and charming valley scenery of 
 Worcestershire, bounded by the Bredon and Cotswold Hills on the other. 
 
 Of Great Malvern — the salubrity of the air and the purity of the water, its 
 invigorating effects in summer and winter, and the beauties of the place — it is 
 superfluous to speak. As a winter residence, also, the dryness and high tempera- 
 ture of Malvern is shewn by conclusive and trustworthy testimony, and i* 
 confirmed by comparative tables of winters in other localities. 
 
 To meet the wishes of numerous Visitors to the Hotel, the Proprietors hare 
 decided to take Ladies and Gentlemen as Hoarders during the season, on the terms 
 stated in the tariff, which wdl be forwarded on application. 
 
 The new StAbles belonging to the Company are now open, and comprise first- 
 class accommodation for horses and carriages. Carriages, saddle-horses, and flya 
 may be had at the Hotel. 
 
 A covered way conducts the visitor from the Railway Station to the Hotel. 
 
 Porters attend every train, to convey Passengers' luggage to the Hotel. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 61 
 
 MARSEILLES. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL de MARSEILLE. 
 
 A FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT. 
 
 THE NEAREST TO 
 
 THE RAILWAY STATION. 
 
 BLANC & CO., Proprietors. 
 
 MAYENCE. 
 
 HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. 
 
 HENRY SPECHT, Wine Merchant and Grower, 
 
 THIS first-rate and excellent Hotel (combining every English comfort), situated 
 A in front of the Bridge, is the nearest Hotel to the Steamboats and close to the 
 Railway Stations. From its Balconies and Rooms are Picturesque Views of the 
 Rhine and Mountains. Baths, Reading Room. Times , Illustrated News , &c. &c is , 
 taken in. The Table-d’Hote is renowned for its excellence, and for its Genuine 
 Rhenish Wines and Sparkling Hock, which Mr. Specht exports to England at 
 Wholesale Prices. 
 
 MAYENCE. 
 
 HOTEL DE HOLLANDE. 
 
 FEED. BIIDXNGEN, Proprietor. 
 
 T HIS first-class well-known Hotel, much frequented by English Families and 
 Tourists, has been greatly enlarged and improved, and contains now 140 
 Rooms and Saloons. Cold, Warm, and Shower Baths. English comfort. This> 
 Hotel is situated on the River, opposite to the Landing-place of the Rhine 
 Steamers, and near the Railway Station, and affords from its Balconies and Windows 
 splendid views of the Rhine and Taunus Mountains. This Hotel is reputed for its 
 excellent cooking, exquisite Wines, cleanliness and good attendance. English 
 Newspapers. 
 
 Choice Rhine and Moselle Wines , wholesale and for exportation. 
 
62 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 METZ. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 MB. MONIES, PROPRIETOR. 
 
 rpHIS first-rate Hotel, much frequented by Families and Gentlemen, situated In the finest I 
 1 part of the town, near the Railway Station and Promenade, Is repl»*te with every comfort ; I 
 the apartments are tastefully and elegantly furnished. It is celebrated for Its cleanliness,? 
 good attendance, and reasonable prices. Saloons, Reading, and Refreshment Rooms; 'Fable 
 d’HOte at 1 and 5 o'clock ; Breakfasts and Dinners at all hours. Advantageous arrange* 
 ments made with Families during the Winter Season. In front of the Hotel there is a fine 
 extensive garden and large court-yard. Baths and carriages in the Hotel. Omnibuses andj 
 carriages belonging to the Hotel convey passengers to and from the Railway StationJ 
 English, French, Italian, and German spoken. Moderate prices. 
 
 The Bead Waiter, the First Housemaid, and the Page, are English Servants. Guide to 
 GravelUte, Mr. Hamilton. 
 
 MILAN. 
 
 HOTEL POZZO. 
 
 Excellent Second-Class Hotel, well situated near the Cathe- 
 dral ; with ample and excellent accommodation ; is especially 
 recommended for its cleanliness and moderate charges. The 
 Proprietor, who has been some time in England, will pay the 
 greatest attention to Visitors and Families. The Omnibus of 
 the Hotel awaits each train. 
 
 M I LAN. 
 
 HOTEL DE LA BRAUDE BRETAGUE. 
 
 ^'0 this Hotel has been added new Dining, Reading, Drawing, and Smoking rooms, 
 -A and the whole house entirety refurnished by the new proprietor, J. LEG NAN I. 
 Large and small Apartments for Families or Single Gentlemen. Hot and cold Baths. 
 The house is situated in the centre of the town, near the Cathedral, Theatres, and all j 
 other places of interest. Good Table d’Hote. English Times takeu in. Several 
 languages spoken. The house is only two stories high. Five minutes’ walk from 
 the English Church. Bnugham and Omnibus of the Hotel at the Station to meet all 
 trains. 
 
 MILAN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE MILAN. 
 
 200 Rooms and Saloons, with every comfort and requirements 
 of the present day. 
 
 Pension in the Winter Months. 
 
 J. SPATZ-WURMS. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 63 
 
 MONT-DORE-LES BAINS. 
 
 LEON CHABORY. 
 
 T HE Hotel de Paris and the Grand Hotel du Parc recommend themselves by the 
 maimer in which they are kept up, their exceptional situation close to Thermal Estab- 
 lishment and by the Park. Both Hotels are open from the 20th April to the 1st November. 
 Address all orders, and for information concerning the Waters, to Leon Chabory, post paid. 
 
 MUNICH. 
 
 HOTEL DE BAVIERE. 
 
 T HIS first- rate old-established and highly recommended Hotel, situated on one 
 of the finest places in Munich (the Promenade Platz), has been considerably 
 enlarged and elegantly furnished. The new proprietor, Mr. OTTO PLOECKER, 
 will leave nothing undone to give the utmost satisfaction to those who may honour 
 him with their patronages. Table d’hote at one and five o’clock. Carriages and 
 Baths in the Hotel. Careful attendance. Moderate fixed charges. English and 
 American Newspapers. Omnibus to and from each train. 
 
 MUNICH. 
 
 HOTEL ENGLISCHER HOE. 
 
 FIRST-RATE FAMILY HOTEL, 
 
 Well situated and close to the Telegraph and Post-office, English 
 Church, Palace, and Royal Theatres. 
 
 New and elegantly Furnished with every modern Comfort. 
 
 HOT AND COLD BATHS. 
 
 Carriages and Omnibuses . 
 
 Fixed Moderate Prices. 
 
 Proprietor, H. SITZLER. 
 
 With Map and Plans, post 8vo. 10s. 
 
 H andbook to south Germany, the Tyrol, 
 
 BAVARIA, AUSTRIA, SALZBURG, STYRIA, HUNGARY, and THE 
 DANUBE, from ULM to THE BLACK SEA. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET, 
 
C4 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 MUNICH. 
 
 wimmer 7& oo., 
 
 GALLERY OF FINE ARTS. 
 
 3, BRIENNER STREET, 
 
 Invite the Nobility and Gentry to ri>it thrir Gai.LKRY OF Fine Arts, containing 
 an Extensive Collection ot' 
 
 MODERN PAINTINGS 
 
 by the best Munich Artists, 
 
 PAINTI ii H O X I» ORCELAliV AND O R C LAN 
 
 also a large Assortment of 
 
 PHOTOGRAPHS, 
 
 including the complete Collection* of the various Public Galleries. 
 
 Corr^por lent* in England, Messrs. J. St R. M'Crackkn, ."8, Queen Stieet, 
 Cannon Street, K.C., London. 
 
 C -t--* prudent* in the United StnW, Messrs. Ki.m.KR & I.nfGO, 07, Reade 
 
 Street, New York. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 BRITISH LIBRARY & READING ROOMS 
 
 (EiiaUuhrd »n 1*37 by Mrt. /Xoront). 
 
 267, RIVIERA DI CHIAJA. 
 
 MURRAY’S GUIDES FOR SALE AT THE LONDON PRICES. 
 RAKDEKKR’S AND OTHER GUIDES. 
 
 TAUCHNITZ EDITIONS. 
 
 The RRADISQ ROOM? art »*tpplurl \ritk the U.vlinj XW;/tsA, America* f 
 Gemyin^ Frtnrk, and Italian Jo*m- i/i. 
 
 ANNEXED 
 
 ENGLISI I ANI> AM KHICAN BANK. 
 
 O. CIVALLERI. 
 
 BARK BILLS, CIRCULAR ROTES, ARD LETTERS 07 CREDIT 
 
 QMbH at the rale of Kichana*. 
 
 Traveller* mar hare thnr a f !re**r*! to th# P-ank, where they will oate- 
 
 fuliy kept until railed for. 
 
 WORKS OF ART AND LUGGAGE RECEIVED, 
 
 varebo-aard. and to all part# of the wofUL 
 
 Corr**? sndant* ( Me*an CHARLES CARR k Co . 14. Buhopi# aU St Within. 
 ;q London \ Mown OLIVIER k CO., 37. Finsbury Square. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 65 
 
 NEUCHATEL. 
 
 HOTEL DE BELLE VUE. 
 
 ESTABLISHED and managed by the Proprietor, Mr. Albert 
 
 -Li Elskes — -This very comfortable first-class Hotel, delightfully situated on the 
 hanks of the Lake, is the only one in the town commanding an entire view of the 
 Alps from Mont Blanc to the summit of the Appenzell. It is so constructed as to 
 afford the greatest tranquillity, which, combined with careful attendance, renders 
 the Hotel a most desirable residence for Families. 
 
 Reduced Prices for Protracted, Stay. 
 
 Pension from the 15th of October till the 15th of May. 
 
 NICE. 
 
 PHARMACIE DANIEL ET C IE - 
 
 QUAI MASSENA. 
 
 GEO. BAKER, 
 
 ENGLISH CHEMIST OF GENEVA, 
 
 INFORMS the Visitors and Residents of Nice, that he has succeeded to 
 the above old established and justly rehowned Pharmacy, and that having 
 associated with him Mr. GEORGE BUSBY, who for nine years past has 
 been Assistant Manager of it, he hopes by careful attention and a moderate 
 Scale of Charges, not only to maintain, but to extend, its ancient and well 
 deserved reputation. 
 
 NORWAY. 
 
 A PRACTICAL GRAMMAR, with Exercises in the Lan- 
 
 guage, for TRAVELLERS AND SPORTSMEN in NORWAY. 
 
 By JOHN Y. SARGENT, M.A., Magdalen College, Oxford. 
 Rivingtons. 
 
 NUREMBERG. 
 
 HOTEL DE BA VIE RE 
 
 (BAYERXSCHER HOP). 
 
 T HIS old-established, first-class, and best situated Hotel, in the 
 centre of the town, close to the river, contains suites of apartments and 
 single rooms, 100 Bed-rooms and Sitting-rooms, all elegantly furnished in the 
 new style. It is patronised by the most distinguished families, and has all the 
 accommodation of an Hotel of the first rank. English Divine Service during the 
 season. Foreign newspapers. Carriages in the Hotel, Omnibus to and from each 
 train. Moderate and fixed prices. 
 
66 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 NICE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL PARADIS. 
 
 (FULL SOUTH. Situated in the most healthy 
 position.) 
 
 Highly spoken of for its great Comfort and 
 excellent Cooking. 
 
 REGULAR FIXED CHARGES. 
 
 VERY PUNCTUAL AND CIVIL ATTENDANCE. 
 
 LARGE HANDSOME DINING HALL. 
 
 BBsmuattf. 
 
 Ladies’ Coffee Room. Reading Rooms. Smoking Room. 
 Baths-Room on each floor. 
 
 Private Dining-rooms attached to the Grand Apartments. 
 
 Omnibus at the arrival of all Trains. 
 
 OPEN ALL THE YEAR. 
 
 * m * This Hotel is frequented by the English Nobility and Gentry. 
 For further particulars address the Manager, 
 
 Mr. G. RIESTERER. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 67 
 
 NICE. 
 
 HOTEL DE LA GRANDE BRETAGNE. 
 
 •JARDIN PUBLIC. 
 
 (Limited Company.) 
 
 FULL SOUTH. 
 
 J. LAYIT, Manager. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS and WELL-KNOWN HOTEL. 
 
 Central Position, splendid View of the Sea, and Public 
 
 Garden. 
 
 Charges very moderate, and affixed in each Koorn. 
 
 TABLE D’HOTE. (One of the Best at Nice.) 
 
 Omnibus of the Hotel at the arrival of all Trains. 
 
63 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 NUREMBERG. 
 
 RED HORSE HOTEL 
 
 (Rothes Ross), 
 
 Proprietor : M. P. GALIMBERTI. Manager: M. BAUER. 
 
 T HIS excellent old-established Hotel, situated in one of the best quarters of the 
 town, is well adapted for Tourists and Families making a visit to Nuremberg of 
 some duration, and who will fiud every conceivable comfort and convenience. 
 Table-d’Hdte at 1 P.M., and Private Dinners at all hours. The Establishment 
 will be found well worthy of the renown and patronage it has enjoyed from English 
 travellers of the highest rank during many years. 
 
 OXFORD. 
 
 S PIERS and SON, 102 and 103, High Street ; 1, 2, and 3, 
 
 Oriel Street. Oxford, invite Tourists to visit their world-renowned Establishments 
 for useful and ornamental manufactures, suitable for presents and remembrances of Oxford. 
 Copies of every published Guide Book and Map of Oxford kept iu stock, as well as a most 
 extensive variety of goods, useful and interesting to the Tourist. 
 
 Information relative to the University, City, aud neighbourhood at all times readily 
 afforded to stranger* visiting their establishments. 
 
 PISA. 
 
 GIUSEPPE ANDREONI, 
 Sculptor in Alabaster and Marble and Objects 
 of Fine Art, 
 
 NO: 872, VIA SANTA MARIA, 
 
 WHERE 
 
 A GREAT ASSORTMENT OF FINE ARTS, SCULPTURE, &C., 
 CAN BE SEEN. 
 
 Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. k R. M‘Cracken, 38, Qneen Street, 
 Cannon Street, E.C., London. 
 
 New Edition. With 150 Illustrations. 2 vols. Tost 8vo. 
 
 H andbook to the Italian schools of painting. 
 
 From the German of Kiigler. Edited, with Notes, by Sir Cuaui.es 
 L. Eastlake, P.R.A. 
 
 “ KUgler's Handbool^has acquired the position of a standard work. Since iU Ural appear- 
 ance considerable addition has been made to the ncconat of the very early Schools of Art, a 
 knowledge of which is more and more felt to be indispensable to a right comprehension of 
 Its later history. The book has also a great number of Illustrations, which add materially 
 to the value, as they do to the beauty and interest, of this delightful book.”— Guardian. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 69 
 
 HOTEL DE La'gRAHDE-BRETAGHE, 
 
 14, Rue Caumartin.— OLIVIER, Proprietor, 
 
 VUE INTERIEURE. 
 
 THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated in the centre of the finest part of Paris, near the 
 Boulevards and new Opera House. Conversation, Reading, and Smoking Rooms. Two 
 iarge Court-yards with Garden. Rooms on the ground, first and second floors, from 3 to 
 5 frs. Apartments for Families. Celebrated Cuisine and Cellar. Dinners at 4 frs. and 
 a la carte. Advantageous arrangements for a protracted stay. 
 
 PENZANCE (CORNWALL). 
 
 MOUNT’S BAY HOUSE, 
 
 ESPLANADE, PENZANCE, CORNWALL, 
 
 Has been erected and fitted up expressly as a 
 
 FAMILY HOTEL & SUPERIOR LODGING-HOUSE. 
 
 ]VrO expense or labour has been spared by the Proprietor. 
 
 ■b* The house is furnished in the most modern style, is well supplied with Rot 
 cmd Cold Baths , and replete with every accommodation suitable for Tourists to 
 West Cornwall. 
 
 All the Drawing Rooms command an uninterrupted and unsurpassed view of that 
 * Beauteous gem set in the silver sea/ 
 
 St. Michael’s Mount, and the whole of the magnificent Bay. 
 
 Invalids will find in Mount’s Bay House the comforts of a home, while the 
 beauty and salubrity of the situation, and its nearness to the charming walks on 
 the sea-shore, render it a healthy and delightful residence. 
 
 Suites of apartments for families of distinction. 
 
 Choice Wines and Ales. Post Horses and Carriages. Charges moderate. 
 
 E. LAVIN', Proprietor. 
 
TO 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 PENZANCE. 
 
 SEA-SIDE FAMILY HOTEL. 
 
 QUEEN’S HOTEL 
 
 (On the Esplanade.) 
 
 Patronised by Her Majesty the Queen of Holland. 
 
 THIS magnificent Hotel lias recently been greatly enlarged, entirely 
 re-arranged, and handsomely furnished, having a frontage of over 170 
 feet, all the rooms of which overlook the sea. It is the only Hotel that 
 commands a full and uninterrupted view of Mount's Bay. Apartments 
 en suite. Penzance stands unrivalled for the variety and quiet beauty of 
 its scenery, whilst the mildness of its climate is admirably adapted to 
 invalids. Ladies * Coffee Room . Billiard Room. Hot and Cold Baths. 
 Table d’Hote at 7 o’clock. 
 
 An Omnibus meets every Train. Posting in all its Branches . Yachts , dr. 
 
 HENBY BLACKWELL, Proprietor. 
 
 With Map. Post 8vo. 12s. 
 
 HANDBOOK TO DEVON AND CORNWALL- 
 
 BXETEB, ILFRACOMBE, LYNTON, SIDMOUTH, DAWIJSH, TE1GNMOUTH, 
 PLYMOUTH, DEVONTORT, TORQUAY, LAUNCESTON, PENZANCE, 
 FALMOUTH, THE LIZARD, LAND’S END, it c. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
1874. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 71 
 
 ST. PETERSBURG. 
 
 HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE, 
 
 ST. ISAAC’S SQUARE, 
 
 ( Gostinitza Angleterre , Issakofski Sabor.) 
 
 'THIS new and well-conducted Hotel, situated in tlie centre 
 
 of the City, facing the St, Isaac’s Church, near the Post-office, the Royal 
 Palaces and Public Buildings, affords large suites of well-furnished Apartments 
 for Families, and comfortable and airy Bedrooms for Single Gentlemen. A large 
 Dining-room where Dinners are served from Three till Seven o’Clock, from 
 one rouble and above. A well-furnished Reading-room. The i Times/ and 
 other English, French, and German Newspapers. 
 
 HOT AND COLD BATHS , TUBS, AND SITTING BATHS . 
 
 Guides and Servants speaking English. 
 
 Omnibuses at the Stations, and Steamboats near Landing-places from Stockholm 
 
 and England. 
 
 THE QUEEN’S MESSENGERS FREQUENT THIS HOTEL. 
 
 N.B.—rMisses Bensons Hotel no longer exists. 
 
72 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 Mar, 
 
 PLYMOUTH. 
 
 DUKE OF CORNWALL HOTEL. 
 
 Railway Terminus— Plymouth, Devon (I’obtal Telegraph Office). First-Class Family Hotel. 
 Table d'Hote daily. Mas. C. H. I3UDD, Manager. 
 
 POITIERS. 
 
 HOTEL DE FRANCE. 
 
 A WELL KNOWN AND HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 
 
 ESTABLISHMENT. 
 
 SPECIALITY OF PATES AND TRUFFLED FOWLS. 
 
 New Edition. With Illustrations. Post 8vo. 12s. 
 
 MEMOIRS OF THE EARLY ITALIAN PAINTERS, and 
 
 the Progress of Painting in Italy, from Cimubuo to Bassono. By 
 Mrs. Jameson. 
 
 ** A complete gradut to a knowledge of Italian art, and one admirably adapted to the 
 comprehension of the young student and amateur; for It ta written with a remarkable free, 
 dom from technicalities, considered as s professional work, and with ail the graces of style 
 and Language for which the author Is distinguished /'— Art Journal. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 73 
 
 PRAGUE. 
 
 WILLIAM HOFMANN, 
 
 BOHEMIAN GLASS MANUFACTURER 
 
 TO HIS MAJESTY THE EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA, 
 
 HOTEL BLUE STAR, 
 
 Recommends his great assortment of Glass Ware, from his own Manufactories in 
 Bohemia. The choicest Articles in every Colour, Shape, and Description, are sold, 
 at the same moderate prices, at his Establishments. 
 
 Correspondents in London, Messrs, J. and R. MCCRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, 
 Cannon Street, E.C, 
 
 Goods forwarded direct to England, America, &c. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 GIORGI AND BISCOSSI, 
 
 VIA FRATTINA, 113 et 114, 
 
 SPECIAL AGENCY FOR FURNISHED ROOMS AND 
 APARTMENTS TO LET. 
 
 BANK OF EXCHANGE. 
 
 Bills, Cheques, Bank and Circular Notes are Cashed 
 without any Commission. 
 
 ENGLISH SPOKEN. 
 
 CANTON DE ST. GALL. 
 
 KAGATZ LES BAINS. 
 
 HOTEL T A M I N A. 
 
 Very Comfortable , and Moderate Charges. 
 
 Communication between the Hotel and the Baths. 
 
 E 
 
74 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVRRTISKR. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 May, 
 
 L. A. GALLANDT, 
 
 7 and 8, PIAZZA DI SPAGNA, 
 
 ROME, 
 
 MANUFACTURER of MOSAICS. 
 
 Jlurbcjior to tbc gling of $taig. 
 
 ESTABLISHED 1850. 
 
 Foreigners are respectfully solicited to visit this Establish- 
 ment, where they will find a 
 
 RICH and VARIED ASSORTMENT of TABLES, PICTURES, 
 ORNAMENTS SET IN GOLD, &c., &c. 
 
 PRIZE MEDALS : — London, 1862. Paris, 1855. 
 
 RHEINFALL NEUHAUSEN. SOHAFPHAUSF.N. 
 
 HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF. PsorwrroR. Mu &VBGKN8TEIN. 
 rpiIE HOTEL RCUWEIZEItHOF, known to Enplish visitoni a* 
 
 " on# of the beat Hotcla In Swltccrland. ha# been greatly enlarged, and If now a eplet»d»d 
 flral-rat# eetaM'ahment 
 
 Th* ^CHWKi^KKHOF h altnat* oppose the celebrated Falla of thV Hhlnf m«\ mir- 
 r*»nnd#H by a fli*e park and ganb-n. Tilt poeitinn to nn«turp*a*ed. the fjr ranking a dl"tano# 
 of above l*o ml|cv-a panoramic view including the mhole rang# of the Sw|«m Alp* and lb* 
 Mont Blanc. Healthy climate Church Service. prewwtM Tmat Fiahfng J‘rtce» moM-rate. 
 Pena ion. Hotel Omnlbitaea at Nenhauaen and SchofThatiaen. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 75 
 
 ROME. 
 
 HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. 
 
 Sig. II. SILENZI, 
 
 Proprietor of the above Hotel, 
 
 Begs to inform his Patrons that, in the month of November, he 
 will open a Succursale under the name of 
 
 HOTEL DU LOUVRE, 
 
 At No. 75, VIA SAN NICC0L0 DA T0LENTIN0, 
 
 which will be furnished in the best Style ; and, in addition to 
 other comforts, will be fitted with a “ Lift,” for the convenience 
 of Invalids and others desirous of availing themselves of it. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 UNTo- 496, G O J=Z> S O. 
 
 GEO. BAKER, 
 
 JEN GLISH CHEMIST, GENEVA, 
 
 INFORMS the Inhabitants and Visitors of Rome that he has opened an 
 Establishment at the above address, for the supply of English specialities 
 and goods adapted for the use of Families, at prices far inferior to those 
 hitherto charged in Rome. 
 
 With Map and Plans. Post 8vo. 10s.. 
 
 HANDBOOK for HOME and its ENVIRONS. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
76 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 ROME. 
 
 J. P. SHEA, 
 
 ENGLISH HOUSE-AGENT, 
 
 FORWARDING AGENT 
 TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES, 
 
 11, PIAZZA DI SPAGNA. 
 
 At this Office persons applying for 
 
 Large or Small Furnished Apartments 
 
 invariably obtain correct and unbiassed information on all matters connected with 
 
 Lodging-Houses, Boarding-Houses, 
 
 and 
 
 Household Management, 
 
 while 
 
 Low and Fixed Charges 
 
 or practical services offer safe and satisfactory assistance to Proprietor and Tenant, 
 as testified by the increasing confidence of English and American Travellers 
 since the opening of the establishment in 1852. 
 
 Plans and Lists of Apartments sent by Post 
 
 to jiersons who wish to secure accommodation, or avoid inconvenience at the 
 approach of Carnival or the Holy Week. 
 
 AS CUSTOM-HOUSE AGENT, 
 
 Mr. Shea clears and warehouses 
 
 Baggage and other effects 
 
 or travellers who, to avoid the expense of quick transit, send their things by sea or 
 luggage-train, directed to his care. 
 
 He also superintends the 
 
 Packing of Works of Art and other Property 
 
 intrusted to his care, and the forwarding of the same to England, &c. ; and being 
 Agent for Messrs. Hums and M elvers’ Italian line of steamers, can offer 
 facilities on the freight of packages between Italy and England. 
 
 CORRESPONDENTS- 
 
 LONDON M*n«n. J. k R. MCRACKKN. 38, Quern Street, Cannon Street, R.C. 
 
 Messrs. CHA8. CARU A CO.. 14. Blshopsgate Street Within. 
 
 BOUIXXJNK a M M*sors. L. BRaNLY k 00. 
 
 PARIS Mr.C. OU£|jON. 2u, Rno Plerro-l*v4e. 
 
 MARSEILLES Messrs. 01 BAUD FRKRKS, 44. Hue Saint*. 
 
 FLORENCE Messrs. HA.8KAIU) A SON. 
 
 NEW YORK Mewrs. AUSTIN. BALDWIN, k 00. Tl Broadway. 
 
 BOSTON Messrs. WELLS. FAROO. .* 00. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 77 
 
 ROTTERDAM- 
 
 HOTEL HE L’EUROPE. 
 
 THIS HOTEL was newly established December, 1872. It 
 
 ■A is situated in the centre of the town, just opposite the Exchange, Post-office, Telegraph- 
 office, the new Railway Station, five minutes from the Rhenish and ten minutes from the 
 Dutch Station, and close to all the Landing-places of the different Steamers. The Rooms 
 are well and comfortably furnished, so that Travellers and Families will find every comfort, 
 combined with the most civil attendance and moderate charges. Table d’Hdte at half-past 4, 
 and Dinners a la Carte at any time. English, French, and German Newspapers are kept, 
 and all these languages are spoken in the Hotel. Carriages are on the premises, and attend all 
 Trains and Boats. The Proprietor, Mr. C. BARKER, will spare no pains to merit the 
 patronage he receives. 
 
 ROTTERDAM. 
 
 H. .A.. KRAMERS & SON, 
 
 IMPORTERS OF FOREIGN BOOKS. 
 
 Mr. Murray's ‘ Handbooks for Travellers,’ Bradshaw’s Monthly Railway Guides, Bae- 
 deker’s * Reischandbucher,’ and Hendschel’s ‘ Telegraph,’ always in Stock. English , French , 
 and German Books imported Weekly, and a great variety of New Books kept in Store. 
 
 26, GELDERSCHE KADE, 26. 
 
 ROUEN. 
 
 O RAND HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE, on the Quay, Mr. 
 
 VX LEON SOCCHARD, Proprietor, Successor of Mr. DELAFOSSE. — This Hotel is 
 distinguished for the salubrity of its situation, &c. ; and the new Proprietor has entirely 
 re-fitted it, and added a very comfortable Smoking-Room. It is situated on the Quay facing 
 the Bridges, and commands the finest view of the Seine, and the magnificent Scenery 
 encircling Rouen, that it is possible to imagine. Travellers will find at this first-rate 
 Establishment every comfort — airy Rooms, good Beds, Refreshments and Win^s of the best 
 quality at moderate Prices. An excellent Table d’Hote at Six o’clock, price 3 frs. 50 c 
 Restaurant a la Carte. 
 
 Mr, Souchard speaks English, and has English Servants. 
 
 An excellent Descriptive Guide of Rouen can be had of Mr. SOUCHAHD. 
 
 SARRERRUCK. 
 
 HOTEL GUEPRATTE. 
 
 THIRST-CLASS Establishment, well furnished Apartments 
 
 ■A and Rooms. Celebrated from its export of fine Mosel and Rhine Wines. 
 Prices Moderate. Carriages to the Battlefield. 
 
 “ The Hotel Guepratte is one of the best Hotels on the Continent.” 
 
 So says Mr. Sutherland Edwards, The Times Correspondent, in that Journal 
 in August, 1870. 
 
 SPA. 
 
 H OTEL D’YORK. — This Hotel is one of the oldest in Spa, particularly frequented 
 by English Travellers, and the best in the locality. It is exceedingly well situated in 
 the healthiest and pleasantest part of the town, close to the Casino, the Promenades, and the 
 Boulevard des Anglais. The apartments are comfortable, airy, and command the finest and 
 most varied views of the mountains. The Omnibus of the Hotel runs regularly to and from 
 the Railway Station, awaiting every Train. English, French, and American papers. Table 
 d’Hdte at 5 o'clock.— LARDNER, Proprietor. 
 
78 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 SPA. 
 
 H OTEL DE FL ANDRE, M. Scry pkue, Proprietor. A 
 
 First-Class Hotel, close to all the public Establishments. Magnificent 
 11 Salle ti Manger.*’ Laige Cardens. Smoking Room. Reading Hoorn, and also 
 fur Indies. f 
 
 Omnibus. 
 
 STOCKHOLM. 
 
 0. E. FRITZE, Bookseller. 
 
 GUSTAVE AHOLFI TOKG (Square), 
 
 (NEXT HOUSE TO THE RYDBERG HOTEL). 
 
 Scandinavian , English, French, and German Books. 
 TRAVELLING MAPS AND HANDBOOKS. 
 
 Views of Stockholm, and Swedish and Norwegian Peasant 
 Costumes, in Photograph and Lithograph. 
 
 44 BRADSHAW'S RAILWAY GUIDE ’’and “HENDSCHEL *S TELEGRAPH.” 
 
 — . ' A - fcP_~r i — 
 
 C. E. FRITZE, Bookseller, Gustaf Adolfs Torg, Stockholm. 
 
 S T R E S A. (Lake Maggiore.) 
 
 ( The nv'8t beautiful Summer Residence .) 
 
 HOTEL ET PENSION DES ILES B0RR0MEES. 
 
 A FIRST-CLASS Hotel situated on the most charming point 
 
 of the borders of the Lake. From its magnificent position, shaded from the 
 sun during the greater part of the day, it enjoys a very mild teinjierature in all 
 and freshness even during the great heats of summer. A large Garden 
 and Baths. Buieau of the Swiss Post Office and Telegraph Office in the Hotel. 
 
 The En jlish Church is held in the Hotel. 
 
 TOURS. 
 
 HOTEL DE LA BOULE D’OR, 
 
 Rue Royale. 
 
 rpiIIS very comfortable Hotel, recently enlarged and restored, 
 is situated in the most beautiful part of the town. Well 
 furnished Apartments and Rooms. Tablo dilute. Private 
 Service. 
 
 ENGLISH SPOKE N. 
 
 E. GUILLAUME, Propbietob. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 79 
 
 THUN. 
 
 JEAN KEHRLI- STERCHI, 
 
 Sculptor in ISootr, 
 
 AND 
 
 MANUFACTURER OF SWISS MODELS AND ORNAMENTS, 
 
 Establishment vis-a-vis the Hotel Belle Vue and at the side of the New Grand 
 Hotel de Thun, in the Bazar des Etrangers, 
 
 For 26 years at the Woodwork Establishment at the Giessbach Falls, 
 eldest son of the founder of said establishment, 
 
 I NVITES the attention of English tourists to his Establishment at the Bellevue 
 Hotel, Thun, where a choice assortment of Swiss Wood Carvings may always 
 be seen. 
 
 Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. M f CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, 
 Cannon Street, London. 
 
 TURIN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE, 
 
 PLACE CHATEAU, 
 
 Opposite the King’s Palace. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. 
 
 OLD REPUTATION. 
 
 Not to he confounded with the Flotel Trombetta , Rue de Rome. 
 
80 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 TURIN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL 
 
 TROMBETTA, 
 
 CLOSE TO THE PRINCIPAL RAILWAY STATION, 
 
 RUE DE ROME, No. 29, 
 
 (Place St. Charles) 
 
 RUE CAVOUR, NO. 1. 
 
 JMglilq Enflimnfiiiieil tu €ngluslj mill ftnwinut /ainilifs. 
 
 MODERATE CHARGES. 
 
 LEOPOLD BAGLIONI, Proprietor. 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 CARLO PONT I, 
 
 OPTICIAN AND PHOTOGRAPHER, 
 
 i I * -i -j— a i j a n r\ a i rl 
 
 Who gained the Prize Medal at the International Exhibition of 1862, and whose 
 House is acknowledged to be the first of the kind in the City, is the Inventor of 
 the Optical Instrument known under the name 
 
 MEGALETHOSCOPE, 
 
 ( first called Alethoeoope), the most perfect instrument for magnifying photographs, 
 and showing them with the effects of night and day. His 
 
 ISOPERISCOPIC SPECTACLES 
 
 gained Medals at the Exhibitions of Paris and Padua, and were pronounced by the 
 
 scientific bodies to be superior in principle to all otheia, as well as being more 
 moderate in price. 
 
 His Photographic Establishment is in the Piazza San Maroo, No. 52, near the Cafe 
 Morion; and his Optical Establishment at Riva dei Sehiavoni, No. 4180, near the 
 Albergo Reale. 
 
 Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M ‘Crack ln, 38, Quocn Street, 
 Cannon Street, E.C. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 81 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA. 
 
 (Formerly KEGINA D’lNGHILTERRA.) 
 
 ROBERT ETZENSBERGER, Manager. 
 
 T HE largest and finest Hotel in Venice, most conveniently 
 situated near the Piazza S. Marco and the principal Theatres. 180 Bed- 
 rooms, Private Sitting-rooms, Reading-room with Piano, Billiard-room, and 
 Smoking-room. Baths of every description, great comfort and cleanliness. Service 
 on the Swiss system. Charges more moderate than in any other first-class Hotel. 
 
 Arrangements for Pension. 
 
 English spoken by all the Servants. 
 
 V E V A Y (Switzerland). 
 
 ii c A > t e monnet, 
 
 Dit des 3 Couronnes. 
 
 Messrs. SCHOTT & CO., Proprietors, and Successors to Mr. Monnet. 
 
 T HIS Large and First-class Establishment, situated close to 
 
 the Lake, affords superior accommodation for Families and Gentlemen. It is 
 extensively patronised for its comfort and cleanliness. Persons remaining some 
 time will find this a most desirable Residence; and from October 15 to June 1 
 they can live here moderately en pension. The largest and finest Salle a Manger 
 in all Switzerland. 
 
 V E V E Y. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DU LAC, 
 
 Quai 8ina. 
 
 EDOUARD DELAJOUX, Proprietor. 
 
 [TEST-CLASS HOTEL, entirely new, close to the Lake, 
 
 and splendid view. 
 
 SPLENDID SALON and DINING-ROOM. 
 
 Close to the Steam-boat Landing called Vevey la Tour . 
 
SJ 
 
 MURRAY'S HAND BOOK advertiser. 
 
 May, 
 
 VEVAY (Switzerland). 
 
 H OTEL MOOSER, at Chemenin, noar Vovey, Mr. F. 
 
 MOOSER, Proprietor. Newly-built First-dass Hotel, only ten minutes' walk 
 from Vevey. Beautifully situated in the middle of a large Park. Comfortable 
 Apartments for Families and Single Gentlemen, Bat its. Billiard-room. 
 Pension the whole year. Moderate Charges. 
 
 VICHY. 
 
 View of the Grand Hotel des Ambassadeors at Vichy-les-Bains. 
 
 / ' RAND HOTEL 1)ES AMBASSADEURS, Situated on 
 
 ' * Uie Park.— This niauniflo-nt Hotel is now one of the first in tbe town. It is ntansff'sl 
 <n the »ain<* style a* the largest and best hotels on the Continent. By it* exceptional situa- 
 tion. the housr* preterit* three fronts, from which the most beautiful views are to be had ; and 
 from it* balconies Is heard the excellent Band of the Caaiuo. Tbe Hotel contains sou Rooms, 
 20 Sakraes, a Saloon lor Banquet*, capable of (raiding 50o person*, and a large and fine IHntng- 
 routn, 200 c overs, a Sin- king r< ram, and 2 Billiard Table*. Large ar*l small Apartment* for 
 Families. Kngli-h and S|>ani»h spoken. Inurpreter. The Omnibus of tbe Hotel await* 
 all the Trains at the Station. 
 
 VICHY. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DU PARC, 
 
 Proprietor, Mr. G Eli MOT, 
 
 Opposite the Baths and the Park. 
 
 A 8 in Paris and London, Vichy has its Grand Hotel. The 
 
 Grand HOtel du Parc of Vichy, for comfort, elegance, and cooreniencr, is 
 equal to any of the largo llotela of Paris or Loudon. 
 
 SUITES OF APARTMENTS FOR FAMLLIES. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S' HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 83 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 HOTEL 
 
 ARCHDUKE CHARLES. 
 
 Proprietor, M. MAULICK. 
 
 ( Late M. JOSEF ZIMMEBMANN.) 
 
 rpHIS First-class Hotel, situated in tlie best part of Vienna, 
 has been greatly improved in modern comfort, recherche 
 cuisine and excellent service. The Proprietor has made the 
 taste and convenience of English families his special care, 
 and spares no trouble to maintain the ancient reputation of 
 the house, and to give satisfaction to the travelling Nobility 
 and Gentry. 
 
 CHARGES VERY MODERATE. 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 AUGUST KLEIN, 
 
 By Appointment Purveyor to the Prince of Wales and to the Imperial 
 Courts of Austria and France. 
 
 THE LARGEST MANUFACTORY OF VIENNA 
 
 LEATHER AND BRONZE GOODS. 
 
 Mr. Klein wishes to call attention to his articles, which are not to be 
 equalled in novelty and variety. 
 
 MANUFACTORY. 
 
 VIENNA. — Neubau, Andreasgasse, No. 6. 
 
 DEPOTS. 
 
 VIENNA. — Stadt Graben, 20 only. 
 
 PARIS. — 6 & 8, Boulevard des Capucines. 
 
 LONDON.— 75, Wimpole Street, W. 
 
 Wholesale. 
 
 4 N,B.— Free admission is granted to all Persons wishing to visit the Manufactory. 
 
84 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 Mar, 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 The most extensive Warehouse for Bohemian White and Coloured 
 
 Crystal Glass. 
 
 J. & L. LOBMEYR, 
 
 GLASS MANUFACTURERS, 
 
 No. 13, KARNTHNERSTRASSE. 
 
 All kinds of Bohemian White and Coloured Crystal Glass; Table, Dessert, and 
 other Services ; Vases, Candelabras, Chandeliers, Looking-glasses; Articles of Luxury, 
 in Crystal Glass, mounted in Bronze, and in Carved Wood. They obtained the 
 Prize Medal at the International Exhibitions of 1862 and 1867. 
 
 The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable charges. — The English 
 language is spoken. 
 
 Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M'CraCKEN, No. 38, 
 Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London, will transmit all orders with the 
 greatest care and attention. 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 llohcmiau Glass un<l llronze Warolioiiso. 
 
 HEINRICH ULLUICII, 
 
 LATE WILLIAM HOFMANN, 
 
 GLASS AND BRONZE MANUFACTURER, 
 
 No. 3, LUGECK, 
 
 Recommends his great assortment of Glass and Bronze Wait* in the cbticest 
 ai tides, in every colour, shape, and description, specially adapted to the English 
 and American taste, from his own manufactories in Bohemia and Vienna (for the 
 Bronze). 
 
 The Prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable cbaigai. 
 
 The English language is spoken, and every information given with pleasure to 
 Tiavellers. 
 
 He sells only real Bohemian Glass, and not Hungarian Glass, which in 
 many places is sold hi substitution. 
 
 Ajents in Paris and New York. 
 
 A Ci It NTS IX LOXDOK: 
 
 Messrs. J. and R. M‘CRACKKN, 38, Queen Street* Cannon Street, E.C. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 85 
 
 WIESBADEN. 
 
 FOUR SEASONS HOTEL & BATHS. 
 
 PROPRIETOR, DR. ZAIS. 
 
 THIS First-Class Establishment, equal to any on the 
 
 Rhine, is in the best and most delightful situation in the Great Square, 
 opposite the Kursaal, the Theatre, the Promenades; close to the Boiling 
 Spring and the new English Chapel. 
 
 This Hotel is the largest in the place, containing a great choice of 
 
 SPLENDID AND COMPOSTABLE APAETMENTS 
 
 for Families and Single Travellers ; exquisite Cuisine and first-class Wines, 
 combined with attentive service and moderate charges. 
 
 TABLE D'HOTE at 1 and 5 p.m., and PEIYATE DINNEES. 
 
 The Bathing Establishment is the best in the Place. 
 
 wildbad. 
 
 H6tel Klumpp, formerly Hotel de fOurs, 
 
 Mr. W. KLUMPP, Proprietor. 
 
 T HIS First-class Hotel, containing 36 Salons and 170 Bed-rooms, a separate 
 Breakfast, a very extensive and elegant Dining-room, new Reading and 
 Conversation as well as Smoking Salons, with an artificial Garden over the river, 
 is situated opposite the Bath and Conversation House, and in the immediate 
 vicinity of the Promenade. 
 
 It is celebrated for its elegant and comfortable apartments, good cuisine and 
 cellar, and deserves its wide-spread reputation as an excellent hotel. Table-d’hote 
 at One and Five o’clock. Breakfasts and Suppers a la carte. New Billiard Table. 
 
 EXCHANGE OFFICE. 
 
 Correspondent of the principal Banking-houses of London for the payment of 
 Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. 
 
 Omnibus of the Hotel to and from each Train . Elegant private carriages , 
 when required. 
 
88 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 WIESBADEN. 
 
 BLACK BEAR HOTEL AND BATHS. 
 
 OTTO FEEYTAG, Proprietor. 
 
 Scrupulous Cleanliness, Attentive Service, and Moderate Charges. 
 
 Central situation — close to the Mineral Springs, the Theatre, the Conversation 
 House and the Promenades. Contains 140 Rooms and Saloons, elegantly furnished, 
 spacious Dining-rooms, Ladies’ Parlour, Smoking-room, and 60 neatly titted-up 
 Bathing Cabinets. Table d’Hote at. 1 and 5 o’clock. Exquisite Wines, English, 
 French, and German Papers. 
 
 VISITORS BOARDED. 
 
 WU RZBO U RG. 
 
 HOTEL KRONPRINZ, 
 
 Facing the Royal Palace . 
 
 HIGH AND COMFORTABLE APARTMENTS. 
 
 TABLE D’HOTE. READING ROOM. 
 
 COLD and WARM BATHS in the HOTEL at any time. 
 
 OMNIBUS AT THE STATION. 
 
 JDLILJS AMMON, Proprietor. 
 
 ZURICH. 
 
 HOTEL DE L’EPEE AU LAC. 
 
 Most beautifully situated in the midst of the town, with a magnificent view over the Alps, 
 Lake, and Glaciers. Entirely new and completely restored. 
 
 Proprietor: Ch. HORAT. 
 
 Principal Features. — Excellent beds, greatest cleanliness, best kitchen, attentive service, 
 mod*-, ate prices. German, Knglisb, French, Italian and American ne*s|>apers. These 
 languages are spoken in the Hotel. 
 
 Dinner at every hour. Omnibus at the Station. 
 
 With Maps and Illustrations. 2 vols. Medium 8vo. 42s. 
 
 'THE BOOK OF SER MARCO POLO, THE VENETIAN. 
 
 Concerning the Kingdoms and Marvels of the East. A now English 
 Version. Illustrated by the light of Oriental Writers and Modern Travels. 
 By Col. Henry Yule, C.B., late Royal Engineers (Bengal). 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
1874. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISE!? 
 
 87 
 
 ZURICH. 
 
 HOTEL DU LAC. 
 
 HONEGGER, and TUGGENER, Proprietors. 
 
 A FIEST-CLASS HOTEL for Families and Single Gentle- 
 
 men, delightfully situated on the banks of the Lake, and commanding an 
 entire view of the Alps. Pension from the 1st October to 15th June. English 
 
 Newspapers. Omnibus at the Station. 
 
 ZURICH. 
 
 HOTEL ET PENSION BELLEVUE 
 AU LAC. 
 
 Proprietors : EEMELL & POHL. 
 
 r PHIS splendid and admirably conducted Establishment, situ- 
 ated on the shore ot the Lake, commands, by its unsurpassed position, ihe best view of 
 the Lake, Alps, and Glaciers, and offers, by its superior internal arrangements, the comforts 
 of Private Apartments and Public Parlours, with careful, civil, and quiet attendants— all 
 desirable attractions to travellers as a place of residence or of temporary sojourn. 
 
 Pension at reduced prices, and arrangements made for Families from October to July. 
 
 Notice. — 125 Apartments facing the Lake. 
 
88 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 18 
 
 EST ABLISHED 
 
 THE ORIGINAL GUIDE & TRAVELLERS’ DEPDi 
 
 AND 
 
 passport tmb Couriers’ l^ytnxjr, 
 
 LEE & CARTER, 
 
 440, WEST STRAND, LONDON 
 
 (Nearly opposite the Charing Cross Hotel). 
 
 KN APS ACKS PORTMANTEAUX 
 
 STIFF OR LIMP. 
 
 OF ALL PATTERNS. 
 
 BAGS 
 
 OF ALL KIND8. 
 
 Intending Tourists are respectfully invited to visit this Establishmen 
 before making purchases for their journey . 
 
 AN EXTENSIVE STOCK OF TRAVELLERS’ REQUISITES TO SELECT FROM-— j 
 
 Guide Books (in pocket bindings). 
 Maps and Plans of all Parts. 
 Foreign Dictionaries. 
 Dialogues and Grammars. 
 Polyglot Washing Books. 
 Journals and Diaries. 
 
 Pocket Books and Note Cases. 
 Purses, Sov. and Nap. Cases. 
 Money Belts and Bags. 
 Writing Cases and Blotters. 
 Ink Stands and Light Boxes. 
 Foreign Stationery. 
 
 Travelling Chess Boards, &c. 
 Knives, Scissors, & Corkscrews. 
 Barometers & Thermometers. 
 Field Glasses & Compasses. 
 Eye Preservers and Spectacles. 
 Railway Rugs and Straps. 
 
 Hat Cases and Bonnet Boxes. 
 Luggage Straps and Labels. 
 Travelling Lamps. 
 
 Camp Candlesticks. 
 
 Flasks and Drinking Cups. 
 Sandwich Cases. 
 
 Luncheon Baskets. 
 
 Dressing Cases 8c Housewives 
 Soap and Brush Boxes. 
 
 Sponge and Sponge Bags. 
 Baths and Air Cushions. 
 Waterproofs Sc Foot Warmers. 
 Camp Stools and Leg Bests. 
 Portable Closet Seats. 
 
 Etnas for boiling water. 
 Combs, Brushes, and Mirrors. 
 Glycerine and Insect Powder. 
 Door Fasteners, &c., &c., See. 
 
 London : Printed by William Clocks nnd Soot, Sbimford Street and Charing Croaa. 
 
3 3125 01378 3994 
 
 G-X6« 
 
MURRAY’S HOME AND COLONIAL LIBRARY. 
 
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 A Series of Works selected for their acknowledged interest aud ability of the Authors, 
 and adapted for all circles and classes of Readers. Post 8vo. Published at 2*. and 
 3s. 6c/. each, and arranged under two distinctive heads as follows : — 
 
 CLASS A. 
 
 HISTORY, BIOGRAPHY, AND HISTORIC TALES. 
 
 1. THE SIEGE OF GIBRALTAR By 
 
 John Drink water. 2s. 
 
 2 . THE AMBER-WITCH. Translated 
 
 from the German. 2s. 
 
 3. CROMWELL AND BUNYAN. 
 
 By Robert Southey. 2s. 
 
 4. LIFE OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 
 
 By John Barrow. 
 
 5. CAMPAIGNS AT WASHINGTON. 
 
 By Rev. G. R. Gleig. 2*. 
 
 6. THE FRENCH IN ALGIERS. From 
 
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 7. FALL OF THE JESUITS. 2s. 
 
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 9. LIFE OF THE GREAT COND& 
 
 By Lord Mahon. 8*. 6d. 
 
 10. SALE’S BRIGADE IN AFGHANIS- 
 
 TAN. By Rev. G. R. Gleio. 2s. 
 
 11. THE TWO SIEGES OF VIENNA. 
 
 By Lord Ellesm ere. 2s. 
 
 12. THE WAYSIDE CROSS. A Tale. 
 
 By Capt. Milman. 2s. 
 
 13. THE LIBERATION WAR IN GER- 
 
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 Gordon. 3s. 6d. 
 
 14. THE STORY OF THE BATTLE 
 
 OF WATERLOO. By Rev. G. R. 
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 Mahon. 3*. 6d. 
 
 18. LIFE OF LORD CLIVE. By REr. 
 
 G. R. Gleig. 3s. 6d. 
 
 19. STOKERS AND POKERS: or Thy 
 
 D North- Western Railway. By Sir 
 F. B. Head. 2*. 
 
 20. LIFE OF GENERAL MUNRO. By 
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 VOYAGES, TRAVELS, AND ADVENTURES. 
 
 14. MISSIONARY LIFE IN CANADA. 
 By Rev. J. A bbott. 2s. 
 
 1. THE BIBLE IN SPAIN. By George 
 
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 Each tcork may be had separately. 
 — 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
 'rr,Q,4 1. if. 
 
MURRAY’S ENGLISH HANDBOOKS. 
 
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 EASTERN COUNTIES — Essex, Cambridge, Suffolk, and Norfolk. 
 Map. Post 8vo. 12a. 
 
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 SCOTLAND. — Edinburgh, Melrose, Kelso, Glasgow, Dumfries, 
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 Plans. Post Svo. 10a. 
 
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 Limerick, Waterford, Killarney. Munster. Maps. Post Svo. 12a. 
 
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 With rc -~ 
 
 June, 1S73. 
 
 
MURRAY’S HOME AND COLONIAL LIBRARY. 
 
 A Series of Works selected for their acknowledged interest aud ability of the Authors, 
 and adapted for all circles and classes of Readers. Post Svo. Published at 2 *. and 
 Jw. 6d. each, and arranged under two distinctive heads as follows 
 
 CLASS A. 
 
 HISTORY, BIOGRAPHY, AND HISTORIC TALES. 
 
 1. THE SIEGE OF GIBRALTAR By 
 
 John Drinkwater. 2s. 
 
 2. THE AMBER-WITCH. Translated 
 
 from the German. 2s. 
 
 3. CROMWELL AND BUNYAN. 
 
 By Robert Southey. 2s. 
 
 4. LIFE OP SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 
 
 By John Barrow. 
 
 5. CAMPAIGNS AT WASHINGTON. 
 
 By Rev. G. R. Gleig. 2s. 
 
 6. TITE FRENCH IN ALGIERS. From 
 
 the German and French. 2s. 
 
 7. FALL OF THE JESUITS. 2s. 
 
 8. LIVONIAN TALES. By a Lady. 2*. 
 
 9. LIFE OF THE GREAT COND& 
 
 By Lord Mahon. 3s. Cd. 
 
 10. SALE’S BRIGADE IN AFGHANIS- 
 
 TAN. By Rev. G. R. Gleig. 2s. 
 
 11. THE TWO SIEGES OF VIENNA. 
 
 By Lord Ellesmere. 2s. 
 
 12. THE WAYSIDE CROSS. 
 By Capt. Milman. 2s. 
 
 A Tale. 
 
 13. THE LIBERATION WAR IN GER- 
 MANY. Translated by Sir A. 
 Gordon. 3s. 6</. 
 
 14. THE STORY OF THE BATTLE 
 OF WATERLOO. By Rev. G. R. 
 Gleig. 3s. 6d. 
 
 OF HENRY 
 
 15. AUTOBIOGRAPHY 
 
 STEFFENS. 2s. 
 
 16. LIVES OF THE BRITISH POETS, 
 
 By Thomas Campbell. 3s. 6d. 
 
 17. HISTORICAL ESSAYS. By Lorl 
 
 Mahon. 3s. 6d. 
 
 18. LIFE OF LORD CLIVE. By Rev. 
 
 G. R. Gleig. 3s. 6d. 
 
 19. STOKERS AND POKERS: or Trx 
 
 North-Western Railway. By Six 
 F. B. Head. 2s. 
 
 20. LIFE OF GENERAL MUNRO. By 
 
 Rev. G. R. Gleig. 3s. Od. 
 
 CLASS B. 
 
 VOYAGES, TRAVELS, AND ADVENTURES. 
 
 1. THE BIBLE IN SPAIN. By George 
 Borrow. 3s. C<Z. 
 
 2. THE GIPSIES OF SPAIN. By 
 George Borrow. 3s. 6d. 
 
 3&4. JOURNALS IN INDIA. By 
 Bishop Heber. 2 Vois. 7s. 
 
 5. TRAVELS IN THE HOLY LAND. 
 
 By Irby and Mangles. 2s. 
 
 6. MOROCCO AND THE MOORS. By 
 
 J. Drummond Hay. 2s. 
 
 7. LETTERS FROM THE BALTIC. By 
 
 a Lady. 2s. 
 
 8. SKETCHES OF NEW SOUTH 
 
 WALES. By Mrs. Meredith. 2s. 
 
 9. THE NEGROES OF THE WEST 
 
 INDIES. By M. G. Lewis. 2s. 
 
 10. SKETCHES OF PERSIA. By Sir 
 
 John Malcolm. 3s. 6c£. 
 
 11. FATHER RIPA’S RESIDENCE AT 
 
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 12 A 13. TYPEE AND OMOO ; or, thb 
 South 3*a Islanders. By Her- 
 mann Melville. 2 Vola. 7s. 
 
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 By Rev. J. Abbott. 2s. 
 
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 Lady. 2s. 
 
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 St.John. 3s. 6d. 
 
 17. PAMPAS JOURNEYS. By Sir F. B. 
 Head. 2s. 
 
 18. GATHERINGS FROM SPAIN. By 
 Richard Ford. 3s. Cd. 
 
 19. THE RIVER AMAZON. By W. H. 
 Edwards. 2s. 
 
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 By Rev. C. Acland. 2s. 
 
 21. ADVENTURES IN MEXICO. 
 
 G. F. Ruxton. Ss. 6d. 
 
 22. PORTUGAL AND GALLICIA. 
 
 Lord Carnarvon. 3s. Cd. 
 
 23. BUSH LIFE IN AUSTRALIA. 
 
 Rev. H. W. Hayoarth. 
 
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 St. John. 2s. 
 
 25. LETTERS FROM SIERRA LEONE. 
 By a Lady. 3s. Od. 
 
 V Each tcork may be hcul stparately. 
 
 By 
 
 Bv 
 
 By 
 
 June, 1S73. 
 
 JOHN MUBRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
 L tfr, 
 
HANDBOOK MAP OF DERBY. NOTTS, LEICESTER & STAFFORD. 
 
 
 4 .